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BULBS

Tuberous - Rated Plants

THEIR
HISTORY, DESCRIPTION, METHODS OF
PROPAGATION
AND
COMPLETE DIRECTIONS FOR THEIR SUCCESSFUL CULTURE

IN THE

Garden, Dwelling and Greenhouse
Be

of L” ALLEN
ILLUSTRATED

NEW YORK
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY
EOIO "= +

SB4)
/ Ay
Le te.

COPYRIGHT, 1893,
BY ORANGE JUDD COMPANY

PRINTED IN U. S. A.

PREFACE.

The growing of bulbs to produce flowers in their
greatest perfection, is a branch of gardening peculiar to
itself, and one in which the minor, yet important details,
are not generally understood. It is one of the objects
of this book to show how the growing of bulbs can be
made a pleasure, or a profitable industry, by giving com-
plete cultural instructions in detail. The flowering of
bulbs is a very simple matter. The bulb, when it comes
from the hands of the grower, contains within itself the
food for the future flower, and it does not require the
gardeners’ skill to develop it. There are a few necessary
points to be considered, and these we have so plainly
stated, that many of the supposed difficulties in their
cultivation have been removed. Causes of failure have
been explained so fully, that with but little trouble,
there need be no fear of loss in their cultivation. The
erowing of bulbs, other than the charms their flowers
possess, has many advantages over that of any other
class of flowering plants; among others, and a very great
one, is that many of them produce their flowers in very
early spring, at a season when few other plants are in
blossom, and yet when flowers are doubly valuable from
their rarity. At this season, in a sheltered, sunny spot,
a few clumps of Snow-drops, Crocus and Scillas will pre-
sent a mass of color, in graceful forms, while the snow
yet lingers in shaded places; before these are gone, the
Hyacinths refresh us with their grateful . fragrance ;

iv PREFACE.

these are soon followed by the Narcissus and showy
Tulips, and all before other vegetation is fairly started.
In rapid succession follow the Crown-imperials, the Iris,
and, before these are gone, the Gladiolus and Lilies com-
mence their long succession of bloom. Interspersed
with these is a host of other bulbs, equally valuable for
their flowers, but whose names are rarely mentioned.
Another advantage that bulbs possess, is their long period
of rest, which leaves the ground, half the year, free for
other plants. The bulbs may be removed from their
places of bloom into the reserve garden to ripen, which
makes their places free for the introduction of annuals,
or other flowering plants. Beginners have an impression
that there are many difficulties to be met, in the man-
agement of bulbs, which must be overcome, in order to
have them produce their flowers to perfection ; whereas,
in reality, no other plants are so easy to manage, none
more showy, and none succeed as well under all circum-
stances, as the different classes of bulbs and tuberous-
rooted plants. To facilitate reference, the various gen-
era are alphabetically arranged in this volume, except
the Amaryllis group, which have been brought together
on Pages 10 to 26, for the convenience of the reader-
A copious index will be found at the end of the book.

©. L. ALLEN.
FLORAL Park, N. Y.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Achimenes, : ° . ; ‘ 2 - - - 2
Agapanthus, . ° ° e ° ° . . ° 6
Allium neapolitanum, . e e = e A = - 8
Amaryllis, . 2 . ° . : . : = 11
Anemone coronaria, . ° ° ° ° , - = 27
Fulgens, . ° ° . . . . ° - 26
Japonica, . ° . . . ° : . 2 29
Arum dracunculus, . < e ° ~ ° - - 32
Babiana, . - : . ° . e . - 34
Begonia, Tuberous-rooted, 2 . - . - 38
Bessera, : 2 - . - < . = - - 43
Blackberry Lily, ° ° ° ° . : ° ° 252
Caladium, . Z P . ° e A ° - - 47
Calochortus, . - - ° = e e - 2 43
Calla or Richardia, - - ° ° ° - - ‘ 266
Callas, Field of, E = 2 e + = > - 268-269
Camassia esculenta, - - ° ° ° s - : 51
Canna, . - - - . ° : - 2 55
Convallaria, - 2 = ° . “ 4 - 62
Crocus, . - ~ e e = ; = 68
Crown Imperial, . - - ~ e ~ ~ P , 93
Cyclamen persicum, ° : : ° ° . ° 7
Dahlia, Double, . - ° ° ° ° ° : = 77
Single, . : ; . . ° ° “ - 80
tubers, - . ° ° ° - - . 83, 84
Eranthis, . - : ° - : - - : 87
Fritillaria, . - = e ° = - = e = 93
Galanthus, - “ - - - - - - ~ 96
Gladiolus, . ~ ‘ = - 2 ° = “ 102
corm half grown, with old corm attached, . = “ 17
corm with offsets, ° F ° ° ° ° ‘ 115
Gloxinias, : - - : : ° ~ ° ~ 132
Hippeastrum, . . ° ° . ° e . . 11
Hyacinths, = - ° e e e s ° a 139
Double, . e ° 2 ° . ° ° - 150
Roman, . ° ° « - . ° ° ° 154
Hymenoceallis, . ° . . . . * ° ons 240
Iris, German, . . . . . e ° e ° 163
Japan, . a ow a . * . . . 165
Leopard Flower, e . e e e e . e 252

Lilies, . ° ° a . © ° . ° . 190

€

Val

Lilies, Bateman’s and Chalecedonian, . - ° A . 204
Blackberry, ° . ° . . . ° . 252
botrytis, . ; ; : a - : : 804
Brown’s (L. oar : : “ ° ° ° a 199
disease, . - - ’ 5 : 5 A = 302
fungus, : - ~ 4 . 4 - ~ 303
in Bermuda, Field of, “ 5 ~ A . - 190
selerotium, . 5 é 5 A c - = 306
Speciosum Rubrum, . . - : - 2 5 223

Lily of the Valley, “ : > é ~ P - 4 61

Milla, . - , - 4 . ‘ A - - 48, 232

Montbretia, = : 5 : 2 - - : 2 234

Narcissus, Group of, . = : - : ° ° 237
Type of Hoop Petbicont, - = : ° : : 241

Ornithogalum arabicum, . C = - F 2 245

Oxalis. - 5 ~ - 2 . ‘ - 247

Pancratium calathinnee ; : - - - - 249

Peony, Fine-leaved, ‘ ‘ - 5 - 4 ‘ 256
Moutan, or Tree, “ 5 - 5 F * 4 254

Ranunculus, Types of, . - - - 2 - “ - 264

Richardia, < : F - : - - - 5 266

Scilla, A 4 A - : : - 2 c - 273

Snowdrop, 2 > “ - 5 - * . - 96

Snowflake, : s 7 A C - A = 2 96

Sparaxis, “ : 2 : : - 274

Sprekelia, 4 5 2 a - > ° - 11

Squill, Siberian, : - - z A A - ; 273

Tioridia, . : : A - fs - - - ° 276

Trillium, - : - A : ° = A 279

‘Tritonia, |< ‘ . ~ és - - 234

Tuberose, Dounce ; = - A - - - A 259

Tulips, Types of, . 5 : A e » ° « 282

Vallota purpurea, . : e . ’ . . ‘ 24

Zephyranthes, . F = a e . c . ‘ 11

Bulbs and Tuberous-Rooted Plants.

ACHIMENKES.

This genus of tropical plants is a very interesting
one for the greenhouse or conservatory, but of no practi-
cal use out of doors in temperate or cold climates. The
species come chiefly from Mexico and Guatemala; a few
only have been introduced from the West Indies. They
are, strictly speaking, greenhouse tuberous-rooted peren-
nials, six to eighteen inches high, with branching and
hairy stems. The funnel-shaped flowers, about two
inches in diameter, crimson, scarlet, purple and white,
are produced very freely, giving the plants a striking
appearance. ‘The flowers are delicate, will not endure
handling, and therefore are of but little use as cut
flowers. ‘This genus derives its name from cheimaino,
to suffer from cold, alluding to its tenderness.

The tubers should be thickly planted about the 1st
of February, in shallow pans of light, sandy soil, mixed
with sphagnum or peat, carefully watered and given a
slight bottom heat. When the plants are about an inch
high, they should be transplanted into blooming pans, or
pots, pans eight inches in diameter being preferable ;
these will be sufficiently large for four or five plants.
They should he placed in a house where the temperature
does not fall below 60° at night, and near the glass, in
order that the plants may grow strong and stocky.

2

BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS,

TYPES OF IMPROVED ACHIMENES.

ACHIMENES. ! 3

Close attention must be paid to watering ; the soil should
always be damp, but never wet, syringing frequently to
keep off red spiders; it is better to shade a little at noon,
if the sun is very hot. When the plants are about five
inches high they should be tied to small, inconspicuous
stakes ; in tying, care should be taken to place the sticks
so that the pan will be a symmetrical mass of green.
The plants will begin to flower in June, when they
should be kept partially shaded, and no longer syringed,
and, in watering, one must avoid wetting the foliage.
They will keep in flower several weeks. After flowering,
water should be gradually withheld, and when the leaves
turn yellow the pans should be set under a bench, and
the tubers must not be disturbed until it is time to start
again the following season. With a little care in drying
off and starting, a succession of bloom may be had the
entire year. This may not be desirable, ‘however, as in
winter there are other plants of interest sufficient to fill
all the space in the greenhouse. The following are the
most desirable of the many species and varieties that
have been introduced and favorably mentioned :

SPECIES.

A. candida.—A tall-growing, much-branched spe-
cies, with pure white flowers.

A. coccinea.—One of the first introduced, a native
of Jamaica; flowers bright scarlet.

A. hirsuta.—Rose flowers with a yellow eye; plant
hairy.

A. multiflora.—Many flowered ; pale lilac.

A. picta.—The painted-leaved Achimenes ; flowers
scarlet, with a yellow eye.

HYBRID VARIETIES.

Advance.—Flowers reddish purple, lighter at the
eye; dwarf, and free of habit.

4 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS,

Excelsior.—Rich violet purple ; very large and free,
with compact habit.

Rollisonii.—Flowers large, deep lavender-blue, yel-
low throat, spotted with deep crimson ; very effective.

Aurora.—Rich rosy scarlet, with yellow throat;
very large.

Diadem.—Crimson-lake, shaded carmine, with deep
yellow eye.

Meteor.—F lowers rather large, bright crimson-scar-
let, yellow eye, spotted carmine ; very dwarf and free.

Hendersoni.—Rich orange-salmon, with yellow eye.

Magnet.—Deep orange, spotted with crimson, with
a distinct carmine zone ; a very free flowering and beau-
tiful sort.

Admiration.—Deep rose, spotted with carmine,
white throat.

Leopard.—Bright magenta rose, freely spotted at
the throat.

Rosea Magnifica.—Bright rose, with a yellow eye,
very finely spotted ; a charming variety.

Unique.—Rosy-pink, deep yellow eye, spotted crim-
son; a very beautiful variety.

Ambrose Verschaffelt.—Flowers of good size,
pure white, with a dark-rayed center.

Madame A. Verschaffelt.—Flowers large, pure

white ground, heavily veined with purple; a very
attractive variety.

ACIS.

A genus of very pretty dwarf bulbous plants, suit-
able for the rockery, in sunny, sheltered situations.
This genus was formerly included with Leucoium, from
which it is readily distinguished by its dwarf slender
habit, the narrowness of its leaves, and the smallness of
the flowers, They are not as hardy, nor as ornamental,
as the Leucoium, but are well worth cultivating. The
best of the species are:

ACIS.—AGAPANTHUS. 5

A. autumnalis.—A pretty little plant, with pink
flowers, produced in autumn before the leaves. It is a
native of Spain, and properly a greenhouse plant.

A. trichophyllum.—A small species, growing only
a few inches high. ‘The flowers are white, and produced
in the spring. It must be grown in a frame and pro-
tected against frost.

A. roseus.—A very rare species, with rose-colored,
drooping flowers, produced in autumn.

Named after Acis, Shepherd of Sicily, Son of Fau-
nus and the Nymph Simethis.

AGAPANTHUS.
African Lily.

This splendid genus is noticed because it will be -
expected, from the fact of its being popularly known as
the African Lily. It does not, strictly speaking, how-
ever, belong either to bulbs or tuberous-rooted plants.
This genus derives its name from agape, love, and
anthos, a flower, Love Flower being one popular name.
The Agapanthus has been in cultivation more than two
hundred years, but is rarely met, although one of the
most beautiful plants to be found for display in pots oy
tubs upon the lawn, or in the border. This is the more
singular, because it is so easily managed, propagated and
preserved. It does well anywhere, is an ornament tc
the greenhouse, will thrive equally well in the open
border, and may be wintered safely in the cellar, or any
place free from frost.

All the species grow freely in good loam, which
should be moderately rich; their great requirement,
when not at rest, is water; this they must have in lib-
eral quantities. They require considerable room; com-
mencing with a single plant in a six-inch pot, it will
need repotting annually, giving it barely room to extend

6 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

its stems and roots. The stronger the plant, the more
freely will it flower, providing it has proper care, and
all that is necessary is to give it liquid manure, two or
three times during its period of growth, with an abund-
ance of water; it is better to set the pot, or tub, in
which it is grown, into a larger one, when it commences
to throw up its flower spikes, then keep the space

A CLUSTER OF AGAPANTHUS FLOWERS.

between the two at all times filled with water. Treated
in this way, we have seen a plant with more than a
dozen spikes of bloom, some of which numbered more
than two hundred and fifty flowers. After the season
of flowering is past, gradually withhold water, and upon
the approach of cold weather remove to its winter quar-
ters, where it may remain until time to put it out of doors

AGAPANTHUS.—AJAX. v4

for another season’s growth. It is by no means an un-
sightly object in the greenhouse during winter, because
of its long graceful foliage; but it should not be stimu-
lated into growth. Itis propagated by division, or more
readily from seed, when it can be obtained fresh. Sow
the seed in the greenhouse, in pans; prick out when the
plants are three inches high, and grow until the plants
are large enough to flower, shifting as required. If not
neglected, they will flower the third year.

The number of species is quite limited. Although
quite a number of varieties are offered, the variation
between them is very slight. The following are all that
are desirable.

A. umbellatus.—The type, a native of the Cape of
Good Hope.

A. u. albidus.—A variety with pure white flowers,
but differing in no other respect from the type. It is
quite scarce, and good flowering plants are rarely met.

A. u. variegatus.—This is well worth growing,
for its foliage alone. It is not as vigorous a grower as
the species, but its leaves are almost pure white, with a
few green bands. It grows freely, though the leaves are
not as broad or as long as are those of the type; but
with such a growth of graceful foliage, so beautifully
variegated, and crowned with an umbel of delicate blue
flowers, the plant is an ornament to any situation in
which it may be placed.

A. u. flore-pleno.—This double-flowering form is
identical, in all other respects, with the species. We
have not seen this variety, but it is described as being
very beautiful, the double flowers being more lasting and
valuable for bouquets, or other floral work.

AJAX.

A synonym of Narcissus Pseudo-Narcissus (Daffodil. )

8

BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

FLOWERS AND BULB OF NEAPOLITAN ALLIUM.

ALBUCA.—ALLIUM. 9

ALBUCA.

A large genus of uninteresting bulbs, closely allied to
the Ornithogalum, mostly natives of the Cape of Good
Hope. ‘There are more than twenty species; they can
be grown in a frame in the same manner as the Ixias.

ALLIUM.
The Garlic and Onion.

The name of garlic is so associated with the idea of
rank smell and flavor, and the plant itself is so repug-
nant to most persons of refined taste, that it seems diffi-
cult to imagine that the genus contains any species
worthy a place in the ornamental, or window garden.
Yet, so far from this being the case, there is, perhaps,
no genus of bulbous plants which contains more pretty
flowers than the genus Allium, or flowers of one genus
which possess more interest, from their great variety,
as they are quite distinct from each other, varying
widely in color and size, though still preserving so strong
a family likeness as to render it impossible to mistake
them. ‘The genus abounds almost everywhere, most of
the ornamental species coming from the Cape of Good
Hope. The following are worthy of cultivation in the
border and window garden.

A. Moly.—A low-growing species, producing, in
-early June, a mass of golden-yellow flowers. After once
planting, it requires no further attention, being perfectly
hardy ; a native of the South of Europe.

A. coeruleum.—A very pretty and showy species,
with bright blue flowers; a native of Russia, and per-
fectly hardy.

A. acuminatum.—A species common in the State
of Washington and Upper California. It has deep rose-
eolored flowers, and is perfectly hardy.

10 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

A. neapolitanum.—The flowers of this handsome
species are white, and are produced in large, loosely-
spreading umbels; the leaves are rather broad, sharply
pointed, and of a dark, glossy green. This is a beauti-
ful plant for the window-garden. Put three bulbs in a
five-inch pot as soon in the fall as they can be obtained ;
they immediately commence to grow, and will be in —
flower in January, and keep in flower for several weeks.
A succession can easily be kept up by planting at inter-
vals. It is also a desirable bulb for the border, but
should be slightly protected. Introduced from the
South of Europe in 1823. See engraving, Page 8.

A. pedemontanum.—F lowers rosy-purple, large,
bell-shaped, in large, graceful, drooping clusters; a
neat little plant for rock work, or for the border, and
one of the handsomest species grown. Introduced from
Piedmont, 1817.

This list includes all the species of real value,
although many of the others are equally interesting, but
the onion odor is so conspicuous in them that they are
not likely to become very popular.

AMARYLLIS.

This interesting genus has had a hard struggle to
establish its identity. At one period it had numerous
species, and many sub-genera, all very beautiful. One
by one these have been removed, becoming separate
genera themselves, until there is scarcely enough left to
hold the name. Some eight distinct kinds still hold, in
trade, the old generic name. What is more perplexing,
when asked how best to manage the Amaryllis, than that
the reply may be the one adapted to the Hippeastrum, and
not at all suited to the Amaryllis? In fact, the Amaryl-
lis is but little known in this country, while its synonyms
are extensively grown and highly appreciated. Amaryl-
lis is now simply a trade name for several genera, a pop:

AMARYILLIS. 11

Amaryliis. Hippeastrum. Zephyranthes. Sprekelia

PROMINENT TYPES OF AMARYLLIS,

12 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

ular name applied in the same manner as that of Calla
Lily to Richardia, or Japonica to the Camellia. The
genus formerly included Hippeastrum, Brunsvigia,
Crinum, Nerine, Sprekelia, Sternbergia, Vallota and
Zephyranthes. These, and their species and varieties,
will be noticed in the above order on the immediately
succeeding pages, being here grouped together for the
reader’s convenience.

The genus Amaryllis consists of but one species.

A. Belladonna.—The Belladonna Lily. A native
of the Cape of Good Hope, it is naturalized in Madeira,
and is also found in Portugal and Italy. It would be
largely grown because of the remarkable beauty of its
flowers, if it bloomed a little later in the season, when
cut flowers are in greater demand, or if it could be grown
outside, or even inacold frame. Its requirements are
a strong growth of the leaves, and absolute rest from
midsummer till the period of flowering, in September.
The bulbs should be planted in June or July, when they
are at rest, in not less than seven-inch pots; the soil
should be rather sandy and rich, but free from fresh
manure. The flowers, than which none are more bean-
tiful, appear the last of August; they are very large,
white, delicately shaded with pink or light purple, and
are immediately followed by leaves, which must have an
opportunity to perfect their growth, without injury
from frost, or neglect of any kind; if they are not so
perfected there will be no flowers the following year.
This necessitates a favorable position in the greenhouse,
which cannot be provided in commercial houses. In pri-
vate establishments, the room for a reasonable number
of pots can be well provided, and there they should be
found, as no finer objects for decorative purposes can be
seen than these, when well grown.

A. B. var. pallida.—aA variety with smaller flow-
ers, of a paler color, formerly called Belladonna minor,

AMARYLLIS.—HIPPEASTRUM. 13

is now rarely met. Propagation is effected by offsets, or
from seed; the latter is too slow a process, excepting
when the seed can be started without artificial heat. The
name Amaryllis is supposed to have been taken from a
famous shepherdess mentioned by Virgil, and distin-
guished for her beauty.

HIPPEASTRUM.

This genus contains more than fifty species, all of
which are popularly known as Amaryllis. All of them
are ornamental plants, suited to the greenhouse and
window garden, or open border, under certain condi-
tions. But few plants are more attractive in winter and
spring than most of the species, while the many beauti-
ful hybrids, gorgeous in color and grand in form, add to
their many charms. ‘Their flowers have a wide range of
color, and the most remarkable shades and markings;
the intensity of color in some of the species is rarely
equalled by that of any other plant. Some of the flow-
ers are of the deepest and richest crimson, and blood
red; others are nearly pure white, striped, mottled and
blended in the most striking and peculiar manner ; some
are of a rich, deep orange, boldly marked with white, a
most pleasing combination of color. Some of the species
are evergreen. ‘I'he foliage and flowers appearing simul-
taneously, mark the perfect plant. Some of the hybrid
forms, as H. Williamsi, are almost constant bloomers,
a most acceptable feature. See engraving, Page 11.

No other bulbs hybridize and cross-fertilize more
freely, and the work has been carried on until the spe-
cies have become so mixed that plants grown from seed
of any marked form are sure to produce varieties of
special merit. Hach year adds to the already large
number of seedling forms, many varieties so entirely
different in form and markings, that it seems as if there
was no limit to the possibilities of the plants for sur-

14 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

prises. Socommon have the seedlings become that they
are offered in immense quantities by the foreign florists,
in mixtures, many of them as unbloomed seedlings.
These we have seen in flower, in large numbers, and
never saw anything more pleasing. In a house where
there were several hundred in bloom, not a poor variety
was to be seen, and some were exceptionally fine; there
were no two alike. For purposes of decoration none
other than seedlings need be sought.

Propagation by Seed.—The seed should be sown
as soon as ripe, as it does not long retain its vitality.
In fact, the seed is, to all appearance, a miniature bulb,
which does not change form when put into the earth,
other than to lose the coating that surrounds it, but
increases in size, like the parent bulb, fast or slow,
according to the conditions in which it is placed. The
better plan is to sow the seeds singly in thumb-pots
of light loam, first securing good drainage; plunge the
pots in clean sand, or ashes, at a temperature of from 60°
to 65°. They should be kept in a moist atmosphere,
and in partial shade. Under such conditions the young
plants will make rapid growth. They need not be shifted
from these pots until the bulbs are nearly, or quite, an
inch in diameter, or until the pots are completely filled
with roots, which will be in about a year. Then they
should be changed into three-inch pots, using the same
kind of soil, or any strong potting mold. In making the
shift, all possible care should be taken to prevent dis-
turbing the roots, as nothing else is so fatal to the Ama-
ryllis as having its roots injured or bruised. Under
favorable conditions, flowering bulbs can be grown from
seed in two years. It is a common, in fact, the more
general, practice, to sow the seed in pans or flats, and
prick them out when the bulbs are about the size of
large peas. We do not consider this plan a good one,
because in pricking out, the roots are liable to injury,

HIPPEASTRUM. 15

and the plants will receive a check, which they should
not have until their natural period for rest, which will
be indicated by the foliage flecking or turning yellow.

Propagation by Offsets.—There is but one way
to propagate any desired variety, viz., by offsets, or
natural division. Many kinds increase very rapidly, in
this manner, but great care is necessary in handling the
bulbs, to obtain good results. It will not do to hasten
matters; it is best to leave the offsets until there is a
natural separation; after several offsets are formed
around the base of the bulb, the larger ones will begin
to detach themselves gradually, and by the time they are
nearly large enough to bloom they are but slightly held.
Then, even, great care must be taken in separating, in
order to avoid breaking the roots, which become much
interlaced. ‘The operation should be performed when the
plants are at rest, by taking the old bulbs from the pot,
and separating them with as little disturbance as possible.
Repot the old bulb, with such offsets as do not readily
part, using as small a pot as will answer, and allowa
little fresh soil all around the ball. Pot the offsets
singly, avoiding too large pots; a four-inch pot is suffi-
ciently large to hold a flowering bulb. Keep about two-
thirds of the bulb above the level of the soil; see that
the roots are spread evenly and not crowded or bruised ;
give them a good watering, and place them where they
are to remain until they flower.

Cultivation.—The cultivation of the Hippeastrums
is very simple; they prefer a strong loam, free from
decayed vegetable matter, and a season of rapid growth,
followed by a season of perfect rest, until started again.
In their native habitat they have a season continuously
. wet, followed by one correspondingly dry. The heat is
most intense about the time the plants have completed
their growth and the bulbs are ripening. The evergreen
varieties require a rest, but must not be suffered to

16 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS,

become quite dry; water just sufficient to keep the
leaves from drooping. ‘The bulbs should remain in the
pots, when at rest; too frequent shifting, and too much
pot room, is decidedly injurious. Because the pot is
full of roots, it is no indication that the bulb needs
repotting; on the contrary, it is a sure indication of
bloom. The pots can never be too full of roots, as the
bulbs flower all the better for being cramped ; it is aston-
ishing how little soil they require. With good drainage,
a very little sweet soil, and plenty of clean healthy roots,
flowers are secured. We notice the species and some
of the leading varieties. ‘The generic name comes from
hippeus, a knight, and astron, a star, referring to the
shape of H. equestre, Equestrian Star.

H. Ackermanni.—Crimson ; very large and fine,
the fruitful parent of many of the large flowering sorts.
A cross between H. Aulicum and H. Johnsont.

H. Ackermanni pulcherrima.—Another cross of
the same parentage; the flowers are larger and more
spreading, differing from the species, in the green stripe
in the center of the petals.

H. Alberti flore-pleno.—Flowers orange-red, yel-
lowish toward the base of each petal; full double, about
six inches across; supposed to be a double form of H.
equestre.

H. Aulicum.—A strong-growing species from Rio
de Janiero; flowers large, deep crimson, green at the
base, with a blotch of red-purple above the green.

H. Aulicum platypetala.—Flowers very similar
to the last, with the tips of the petals green and yellow ;
bulbs very large; flowers last long after cutting.

H. equestre-fulgida (Barbadoes Lily).—Flowers
bright orange, margined with white; very striking.

H. equestre flore-pleno.—A magnificent variety ;
flowers nearly as double as the rose, of a rich orange
color. This and the preceding are natives of the West
Indies, Guiana and Chili,

HIPPEASTRUM. 17

H. Johnsoni (Johnson’s Hybrid).—This is one
of the very earliest hybrids, a cross between H. reging and
H. vittatum, and is still a popular variety ; it is one of the
most robust and showy, and a wonderful bloomer.
Flowers dull crimson, with a white stripe down the cen-
ter of each petal. A good bulb will frequently throw
up four spikes of flowers. It is popularly known as the
Johnsoni Lily. :

H. Johnsoni var. grandiflora.—This has larger
flowers, with broader white stripes.

Autumn Beauty.—A delicate rose color, retic-
ulated with rosy-pink, the leaves being striped with
white, like those of H. reticulatum.

H. miniatum.—A native of Chili; flowers bright
scarlet.

Mrs. Garfield.—This is ore of the most beautiful
of the hybrid forms; a cross between H. reticulatum and
Defiance, retaining the variegated leaf of H. reticulatum,
much lengthened and widened. The flower scape rises
to about two feet, producing from four to five flowers
six inches in diameter, of a rosy pink color, with a white
stripe in the center of each petal.

H. pardinum (Leopard-spotted). — Rich creamy
yellow, profusely dotted with crimson; the whole flower
almost fully expanding, so as to leave little or no throat,
thus revealing the whole of its beauty; the spots have a
peculiarly rich effect on the cream-colored ground.

H. pratense (Meadow).—Flowers brightest scarlet,
sometimes feathered with yellow at the base.

H. psittacinum (Parrot Amaryllis).—A specfes
with green and scarlet flowers; it is unique and beauti-
ful, and has been the parent of many seedlings.

H. pyrrochroum (Flame-colored).—Flowers deep
red, of good size, four or five on a scape; throat shading
to a greenish yellow.

2

18 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS,

H. reticulatum.—This is one of the most beauti-
ful of the species; flowers a delicate, soft pink and
white, about three inches in diameter; veins darker, and
giving to the whole flower a netted and interesting
appearance; scape five or six flowered. Leaves dark
green, with a pure ivory-white midrib. A native of
Brazil, introduced in 1677.

H. solandriflorum (Solandra-flowered).—This is
a noble species, producing from four to eight long trum-
pet-shaped flowers, on a tall scape; color creamy white,
greenish on the outside, and beautifully shaded with
pink.

H. vittata (Striped).—One of the most hardy and
remarkable of the species. Flowers clear white, with
double red stripes on each petal. This is a fruitful
parent of many of the finest varieties.

H. reginz (Mexican Lily).—Dark red, with orange
and white; showy.

Defiance.—A remarkable hybrid form; a strong
grower and continuous bloomer, flowering repeatedly
daring the season. Flowers bright carmine, a vein of
white running through each petal; very large and firm ;
one of the most valuable for floral decorations.

BRUNSVIGIA.

A genus of handsome bulbs, formerly classed with
the Amaryllis. The bulbs are very large, and need
special treatment to bring them into flower. They
require complete rest during winter, when they must
not .be watered, but during their period of growth they
cannot well have too much water. They flower from
June to September, according to the species. The flow-
ers are large and showy, but the bulb is so large and the
plants occupy so much room, that they are not consid-
ered worth growing. There are about a dozen species,
all natives of the Cape of Good Hope.

BRUNSVIGIA.—CRINUM, 19

B. Josephinez (Syn. B. gigantea).—This is the
largest and handsomest of the species, and the one most
generally grown; flowers scarlet, produced in a many-
flowered umbel.

B. toxicaria (Poison Bulb).—Flowers pink, pro-
duced in a many-flowered umbel; leaves erect and shin-
ing. The genus is of so little consequence, to other
than the botanist, that a further enumeration of the
species here would be of little interest to the florist.

CRINUM.

This is a large genus of Amaryllis-like plants, re
markable both for the size, number and beauty of theit
flowers, and for the enormous size of the plants. The
bulbs of the Crinums are of great size and height, the
flowers springing from the sides of their long necks.
The leaves of some of the species are of gigantic dimen-
sions, extending from three to six feet in length, and
averaging from three to six inches in width. The flower
stalks of some of the species are proportionately large,
nearly two inches in diameter, rising to the height of
from three to four feet, and terminating with a large
umbel of from fifteen to thirty flowers. The flowers are
mostly pure white, or a delicate mixture of rose or pale
red and white, some of them nearly a foot in length and
from six to nine inches across. Some of the species are
nearly hardy, and all are remarkably tenacious of life;
the bulbs of C. capense will remain out of the earth,
dry, for two years, without apparent injury. Most of
the species are of tropical origin; they are, however,
easy of culture, and free flowering, the only objection ta
them being their size, which is not proportionate to
their beauty. They are, however, in many respects
especially interesting, and when the time comes that
plants are grown for what there is in them, rather than
for what can be made from them, in the way of profit

20 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

we shall expect to see many of the Crinums pretty gener-
ally cultivated. 'There are a large number of species,
and some hybrid varieties; the following are the most
important for the garden and greenhouse.

C. amabile.—The first one in the list is the most
important, and we do not know of a more magnificent
plant than this, when in bloom; certainly it has ne
superior in the great class of bulbs. ‘Those who have
never seen it in flower cannot form the least idea what
Crinums are like, or what their capabilities are. This
fine species is a native of the East Indies. The bulbs
are very large, being two feet long, with a diameter
of from six to eight inches near the base, tapering to
a long neck, from the side of which the flower stalk pro-
ceeds. This is about an inch in diameter, and from two
to four feet in height, terminating with an umbel of
from twenty to thirty flowers, averaging in length from
six to ten inches. The outside of the flower is of a
bright rose color, the inside pale flesh. This will grow
and flower freely in the greenhouse, with ordinary care,
if watered freely when growing, sparingly when at rest.
It is evergreen.

C. capense.—This species is generally listed in
the seedsman’s catalogues as Amaryllis longifolia.
There are two varieties, rose colored, and white. ‘These
flower freely in the border in midsummer, and can be
stored like Dahlas, during winter.

C. Zeylanicum.—This noble species from Ceylon
is more dwarf growing, but with immense leaves, and
clusters of superb purple flowers. It is a greenhouse.
species, but will flower freely with a little care. These
plants are well worth a place in any collection of plants.
They grow readily from seed, which should be sown
singly in pots as soon as ripe, or from offsets, which are
sparingly produced. This species has often been sold as
C. ornatum, a synonym of C, Mooret.

NERINE. 21

NERINE.
The Guernsey Lily.

This is an interesting genus of greenhouse bulbs, but
not useful in a commercial sense. They are but little
grown, notwithstanding their remarkable beauty, because
of the impression that they are difficult subjects to man-
age. This difficulty would be readily overcome if the
flowers had a market value. The Nerine, to flower well,
must be grown in considerable heat in autumn, and
have as light and airy a situation as the greenhouse
affords, and must, at all times, have a liberal supply of
water. The plants must be treated in this way until
nearly spring, gradually withholding water until May,
when complete rest should be given them. They will
come into flower about the first of September, previous
to which time watering should again commence. This
method applies particularly to WV. sarniensis, the more
important of the species.

N. sarniensis,—This species is a native of the
Cape of Good Hope, but has become naturalized on the
Island of Guernsey, and is grown in immense quantities
for the English market. There is no bulb more easily
managed than this, when first imported. If we could
get bulbs direct, as soon as ripe, say about the first of
August, and pot them, they would immediately come
into flower, with scarcely a failure, but we cannot grow
them later, excepting in the manner stated. It would
be much the cheaper way to buy bulbs, annually, from
Guernsey, if they could be had in time. There is but
little difference in the shape of the flowers, which are
peculiar to themselves, in the species; the colors range
from clear pink to brilliant scarlet.

22 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

SPREKELIA.,
Jacobean Lnly.

S. formosissima (Amaryllis formosissima).—
There is but one species of this genus under cultivation
to any extent. This is an old garden favorite, whose
brilliant crimson flowers are seemingly, in the sun, dusted
with gold, making them attractive objects. ‘The flowers
are produced before the leaves. ‘The bulbs should be
planted as soon as the ground is in condition to work,
and the flowers will appear early in June. Give them
ordinary garden culture, take up and store in the same
manner as Gladiolus, in a dry, dark room, where there
is no frost. This species is a native of Mexico. The
variety, S. f. longipetala, with lighter colored flowers, is
by no means as showy. See engraving on Page 11.

S. Cybister, said to be a remarkable species, was
introduced from Bolivia in 1840, but is now lost.

STERNBERGIA,

Amaryllis lutea (Mount Etna Lily.)—A small
genus of half-hardy ornamental bulbs, producing their
flowers in autumn before the leaves. They grow readily
in the border, but should have the protection of a frame,
in order that they can develop their foliage after flower-
ing, which they cannot do, north of Virginia, out of doors.
The really distinct species are:

S. colchiciflora (Colchicum-flowered). — Flowers
yellowish-white ; blooming in autumn.

S. lutea.—This is a charming plant, flowers a clear
bright yellow, like very large Crocuses; several appear
from the same bulb about the first of October. If both
were protected against frost, they would make their leaf
growth in the spring. Both species are worth growing,
even if the bulbs had to be renewed annually.

VALLOTA. 23

VALLOTA.
Scarborough Lily.

This genus stands quite alone in the world; there is
but one species, V. purpurea, and that utterly refuses
to mix, or hybridize, with others of the natural order to
which it belongs; it defies the florist’s skill, preferring
to retain the beautiful form and color that was originally
given it. For this we are thankful. While we recognize
cheerfully the florist’s skill, we are glad that one flower
is already perfect. See engraving on next page.

The Vallota is a grand plant for pot culture. It
thrives under almost all circumstances, but properly
treated, it has no superior among autumn blooming
plants. The only care it wants is to be let alone, after
it is potted.. A single bulb should not have a pot larger
than three-inch size, and should not be shifted to a
larger until the offsets and roots have completely used
up the soil, then shift into a pot but one size larger.
Do not disturb the offsets or the bulbs in any way, until
a plant of the desired size is wanted. When a six-inch
pot has been filled, and a further shift is necessary, use
a seed-pan, which will be plenty deep enough, as the
tops of the bulbs should be level with the surface of the
soil, and they will be much easier to handle. It is an
evergreen plant, but can be wintered in any light room
free from frost, with an occasional slight watering.

We once grew a twelve-inch pan of this plant, and
had, at one time, forty-one spikes, with from five to eight
brilliant searlet blooms on each. There are tw» varieties
in general cultivation; one has a round, the other a
flattened bulb, the former giving a trifle larger flowers,
and a little white at the base of the petals.

24 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

VALLOTA PURPUREA.

ZEPHYRANTHES, | 20

ZEPHYRANTHES.

For the open border this genus furnishes some of
the most useful bulbs in cultivation; they are easily
managed, requiring the same treatment as the Gladiolus ;
they should be planted at the same time, only rather more
closely. Two of the species are continual bloomers.
They are particularly adapted for open air culture, and
are, in fact, of but little use, relatively, elsewhere.
See engraving, Page 11. There are a number of species
and varieties; the truly useful ones are:

Z. Atamasco.—A native of Virginia and south-
ward, where it is popularly known as the Atamasco Lily.
It is also known as Amaryllis Atamasco ; flowers white,
changing to light pink, singly on stems about one foot
high. This rarely blooms more than once in a season.

Z. candida (Amaryllis candida).—Peruvian Swamp
Lily. ‘This is one of the most useful of the species.
The bulbs are small, produced in bunches; flowers about
two inches across, pure white, on stems eight inches high.
This is a capital border plant; it forms a solid mass of
grass-like foliage, and is in constant bloom from July
until killed down by frost. Its pure white flowers, ris-
ing just above the bright green foliage, form a striking
and pleasing contrast. The bulbs should be separated
in the spring and planted in masses, or as a border, two
inches apart each way. ‘Take up in the fall, after a
heavy frost, and store the same as the Gladiolus.

Z. rosea (Fairy Lily).—This should be treated in
precisely the same manner as the above, excepting that
the bulbs should be planted five inches apart each way.
The two species should be planted in rows, side by side,
or in masses close together, in order to produce that har-
mony of color, that white, bright pink and green always

26 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

affords. The flowers of this species are larger than those
of the others named, produced singly on long slender
stems ; color a clear, delicate pink ; a mass, or a border of
these bulbs will furnish flowers the entiresummer. ‘The

ANEMONE FULGENS.

bulbs are one inch in diameter, and increase very rapidly.
Of the numerous other species of Zephyranthes, but few
adapt themselves to our climate.

AMMOCHARIS.
A synonym of Brunsvigia. See Page 18.

ANEMONE, 27

ANEMONE.

Of this very extensive and widely distributed genus,
we Shall mainly notice the tuberous-rooted species, which

TYPES OF ANEMONE CORONARIA.

are usually classed with bulbs, as they are distributed in
the same manner. These have been but little grown in

28 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS,

this country, as our climate is not at all congenial to
them, both too hot and too cold, either extreme being
fatal to them. Where they can be grown successfully
they make charming plants, producing a mass of very
gorgeous flowers. ‘They succeed fairly well here, in moist,
partially shaded situations, or in a frame where the
tubers can be planted about the first of February, safely
protected against frost, and where they can also be pro-
tected against mid-day sun. In France they are usually
planted in autumn, but in America a better plan is to
plant as early in spring as they can be put in the ground.
As soon as the tops die down take up the tubers and
store in a dry room free from frost. ‘There are both
double and single forms, and varieties innumerable.
Either can be produced from seed, the plants flowering
the second year; it is, however, quite as advisable to
plant the tubers.

A. coronaria (Poppy Anemone).—A native of the
Levant. This isa parent of most of the popular varie-
ties. The flowers are about two inches in diameter,
white, scarlet and purple, with all the variations these
colors will produce. The varieties make a fine display
in spring. They can be grown in the greenhouse in
pots, flowering during the winter, if desired. But they
seem to be born for the open air, which is their appro-
priate home and place. (See engraving, Page 27.)

A. hortensis.—Varying but little from the preced-
ing; it is also the parent of many varieties, both double
and single. Many other so-called species are but varie-
ties of these.

A. fulgens. —This is one of the most showy species
of the genus. Its color is of the most intense dazzling
scarlet that it is possible to conceive. As it is one
of the earliest flowers of the year, and so exceedingly
beautiful withal, it deserves a place in every Loui
ge engraving, Page 26.)

ANEMONE. 29

A. japonica.—Although not a bulb or a tuber,
this plant is so closely related to a prominent class
of tubers, that it deserves a notice in this connection.

ANEMONE JAPONICA.
This hardy herbaceous species is, without question, the

most useful of any members of the genus. It is an

autumn bloomer, and seldom expands its flowers before

30 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS,

the first of October. The flowers of the species are
pinkish, or, rather, purplish red, very large, but some-
what loose in appearance. In the garden they produce
a fine effect, and will stand considerable frost without
injury. Of this species there is a florists’ variety, Hon-
orine Jobert, which is unequalled in beauty by any
autumn flowering plant in the garden. The flowers are
large, white, regular and even, with a clear yellow cen-
ter; it is of taller growth than the species, and fora
mass in the flower garden is unsurpassed for autumn
decoration. (See engraving, Page 29.)

ANOMATHEOA.

A genus of very pretty South African bulbs belong-
ing to the Iris family, remarkable for the brilliancy of
their flowers, and for their delicate grass-like foliage.
The bulbs should be planted in January, and given a
sunny situation in the greenhouse, where they can fully
develop their bright green foliage; if their growth is not
checked they will commence flowering in May.

A. cruenta.—The best species; its brilliant scarlet
flowers are produced in succession, on slender stems, the
entire season. As a pot plant, there is nothing more
showy, but it is useless for any other purpose. It does
well in the window garden.

ANTHOLYZA.

This genus of Cape bulbs furnishes some very showy
flowers, bearing a close resemblance to the Gladiolus, and
belongs to the same natural order, Jridacew. The great
defect of this bulb is its lack of adaptation, being
too large to be grown profitably in the greenhouse, and
it is not sufficiently hardy to be grown out of doors. It
may well be placed with that large class of plants which
are very beautiful but not otherwise desirable, |

APIOS.—ARISHMA. 3]

APIOS.
Ground Nut.

A. tuberosa.—The only species is a beautiful, free-
flowering, climbing plant, common near the coast from
Maine to the Carolinas. It grows, when given support,
from six to eight feet high, producing axillary clusters of
purplish-brown, very fragrant flowers, not unlike the
Wistaria, to which it is allied. It is readily propagated
' by division of its tubers, which are freely produced on
underground stems, and are edible. It is perfectly
hardy, and when once planted it will take care of itself.
For a moist, partially shaded situation, we do not know
of a more desirable climbing plant.

ARIS AMA.
Dragon and Arum.

This genus embraces a great variety of forms, some
beautiful in flower and leaf, some hideous in flower, but
in plant most remarkable, as the plant is but a strong
stem, spotted, and terminal, with but few leaves, which
are sometimes much divided. Our native species are very
beautiful in foliage, flower and fruit. They grow in
shaded places, in deep, rich soil, and of a large size.

A. Dracontium (Common Green Dragon).—This
species is abundant in damp woods in many parts of the
country; it has handsome hastate leaves and green
flowers. This is a beautiful plant under cultivation ; it
should be grown in the shade with ferns, then the effect
is pleasing.

A. triphyllum (Indian Turnip). It is quite as
generally known as Jack-in-the-Pulpit, and is well worth
growing, both for the flowers and its fruit. In a shaded,
moist situation, it grows much larger than in the woods.

32 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

ARUM DRACUNCULUS,

ARUM.—ARUM LILY.—ASCLEPIAS, 33

The roots of this species are very acrid; a thin slice
placed on the naked skin will very soon draw a blister.

ARUM.

A. Dracunculus (Dragon Plant).—Growing from
three to four feet high, with a large blackish-purple
flower, appearing before the foliage, which is very orna-
mental. It is a handsome plant for decorative purposes
when grown in a pot, after the flower has been removed.
They are very ornamental in the border, and will grow
with little care, preferring a deep rich soil. Plant, and
treat as other spring bulbs.

ARUM LILY.
See Richardia ethiopica.
ASCLEPIAS,

The following species is the only one that is proper
to include in our list.

A. tuberosa (Butterfly Weed, from its showy flow-
ers, and Pleurisy Root, because of its supposed medical
properties).—This is a hardy herbaceous perennial,
thriving in light sandy or gravelly soil. Its showy
trusses of bright orange flowers are produced nearly the
entire summer. It is a desirable plant for the shrub-
bery border, where it may remain for an indefinite period,
without being disturbed. In fact, it should never be
disturbed, as it is impatient of removal, and cannot well
be propagated by division. It grows readily from seed,
which should be sown where it is wanted to grow. For
purposes of sale it is best grown in small pots, in which
tubers will be formed that can be handled without loss.
Propagation can also be effected by terminal root-cut-
tings. This species is confined exclusively to America.

ATAMASCO LILY.
See Zephyranthes. Page 25.
3

34 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

BABIANA.

All the Babianas have handsome flowers, and most
of them have hairy leaves; the colors of their flowers are
various, the blue predominating, but so brilliant that a
splendid display for fully two months of the year may
be had from these bulbs alone. They are all natives of
the arid plains near the Cape
of Good Hope, where they
are exposed to alternate sea-
, Sons of excessive rain and
excessive drouth, the ground
# during the dry season being
f so loose and powdery that
# the bulbs often lie partly
bare, and exposed to the
heat of the sun. All the
kinds of Babiana are propa-
gated by offsets or from
seed; the rapidity wit.. which
they may be multiplied by
offsets makes this the better
plan of propagation, partic-
ularly as the varieties from
seed are very variable. The
only place for these bulbs is
in the greenhouse, as their
time for flowering is from
February until May. A light, loose soil suits them best,
and they require strong light and an abundance of water.
The bulbs should be planted or repotted about the first
of December, putting from ten to twelve in a six-inch
pot; after pottine, withholl water until there is an
appearance of growth, when it should be applied liber-
ally, and the pots placed in position for flowering, After

BABIANA RUBRO-CYANEA.

BABIANA,. 35

all the flowers are passed, gradually withhold water, in
order that the bulbs may ripen off. When the foliage
has died down, place the pots in some out-of-the-way
place, where the soil may remain as dry as powder until
time for repotting. While these bulbs require the most
liberal waterings when in growth, there is nothing so
fatal to them, when at rest, as water.

There are an immense number of species and varie-
ties under cultivation; the following list includes all
that are desirable.

B. alba sulphurea.—Rich delicate sulphur white.

B. atro-cyanea.—Bluish-purple, with white mark-
ings.

B. bicolor.—White and blue in alternate petals,
rich and striking.

B. disticha.—Two ranked, very striking blue.

B. fragrans.—Richly perfumed.

B. pallida.—Pretty, pure clear lilac and white,
chaste and beautiful.

B. plicata.-—Very fragrant, pale violet, the lower
segments spotted yellow and brown.

B. purpurea.—Violet rose, with mauve and white
markings. |

B. ringens.—Rich purple wide-mouthed flowers.

B. rosea grandis.—Very fine, rosy-purple and
white.

B. rosea major.—Magenta, marked white.

B. rubro-cyanea. — Rich blue and red, very
striking. |

B. speciosa.—Rich mauve and purple.

B. stricta.—Beautiful porcelain blue.

B. stricta purpurea.—Rosy purple and mauve.

B. Thunbergii.—Many-spiked, purple.

B. tubiflora.—Rich yellow and red.

B. tubiflora tubata.—Long-tubed, yellow and
white.

B. villosa.—Dark magenta crimson.

36 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

In addition to this dozen and a half of the more
showy species of Babiana, the following florists’ varieties
are well worthy of cultivation :

Attraction.—Rich Syrian purple, tinged with
white.

Celia.—Rich rose, marked with white.

General Scott.—Rich magenta, suffused with
white.

General Slade.—Charming magenta.

Lady Carey.—Mauve and white.

BABY’S BREATH.
The popular name of Muscari botryoides.

BARBADOES LILY.
Synonym of Hippeastrum equestre. See Page 13.

BARNARDIA.
Chinese Squall.

This is an exceedingly rare genus, which fact shows
that it is of but little importance in the floral world.
It was introduced into Europe by Thunberg, from
China, in 1824. There are but two species, B. scilloides
and B. japonicum, the former with pink, the latter with
purple flowers; both delicate and graceful. ‘The leaves
are broad and long, resembling those of the Ornithogalum }
in fact, the latter was called B. gaponicum by 'Thunberg.
They require the same treatment as the tender varieties
of Scilla.

BEGONIA.
Tuberous-Rooted Begonia.

But few plants have been so rapidly improved by
the florist’s kindly aid, as the Tuberous Begonias, since
the introduction of the species from South America ;
ond but few are more deservedly popular, either for the

-

BEGONTA, ot

greenhouse or for garden decoration. Upon their intro-
duction into this country they were not supposed, by
our florists, to be able to withstand our rare atmosphere,
drying winds and burning suns. The few that thought
differently persevered in their cultivation unti’ they es-
tablished the fact that they would not only endure our
climatic conditions, but that they were just what these
plants required for their full development. The idea
that a low temperature and moist atmosphere were nec-
essary to the successful cultivation of the Tuberous Be-
gonias, was abandoned during the season of 1892, which
was one of the driest and hottest known for many years.

In the nursery row—the proper place to judge of a
plant’s usefulness—it appeared during that year to the
best possible advantage. It showed, also, just what must
be done to insure success, and that it can withstand ex-
treme heat and excessive drouth as well as almost any
other bedding plant. The principal point learned in re-
gard to its culture is, that it must be treated as a plant
and not as a bulb. The enthusiastic florist, seeing the
many good qualities of the plant, has led amateurs to
believe it could be treated as a bulb, and planted out in
the same manner as the Gladiolus or Tigridia, and
kept dormant during the winter in the same manner.
This is a great mistake, as the tubers will not endure as
long a period of rest, and cannot be exposed to the air
for a long time without seriously injuring their vitality.
The tubers must be kept in dry earth or sand, until they
show signs of growth, which will not be later than the
first of March, then they may be:started into rapid
growth. After the eyes are fully developed the tubers
may be divided; each eye will make a plant. Then
they are to be treated in all respects like greenhouse
plants, and grown on until the proper season for their
planting out. This is not before the first of June, as
Begonias are quite sensitive to cold nights, but not at

-RLOOTED PLANTS.

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SINGLE AND DOUBLE TUBEROUS BEGONIAS,

BEGONIA, 39

all to heat. At that time the plants should be fully six
inches in height, and proportionately strong. Such
plants will make a grand display the entire season, rather
delighting in great heat. This was plainly shown the
past season on Mr. Griffin’s grounds on Long Island,
where the strong plants, which were first set, grew vig-
orously, while the younger stock from seed sown too
late, failed to grow in a satisfactory manner. Those
intending to grow Tuberous Begonias from seed, should
sow early in January. The amateur can start the
tubers in the ordinary window, and grow them on until
time to plant out, but to grow from seed will require
the use of a greenhouse.

Propagation is effected rapidly and easily from seed,
which is produced freely ; a single capsule is said to con-
tain more than one thousand seeds, which, with proper
care, will produce nearly as many plants. The seeds of
the Tuberous Begonia are so excessively fine as to resem-
ble tobacco dust more than covers containing the germ
of a future plant. And it is well to remark, in this
place, that the seed produced in our greenhouses or in
the open ground, is much better, both as regards size
and plumpness, than any we have been able to get from
England, the supposed paradise of the Tuberous Begonia,
and the germinating properties are much greater.

The seed should be sown in the greenhouse in Jan-
uary, in pans filled with very light soil. A mixture of
powdered sphagnum, sand, and the finest manure possi-
ble, thoroughly mixed, is the most suitable. This
should be pressed firmly down, and the seed scattered
thinly over the surface. Then wet thoroughly with
a fine rose, and cover to the depth of one-eighth of an
inch with the same mixture of soil, or with ground
sphagnum alone; cover each pan with a pane of glass,
to prevent evaporation, and give them an even tempera-
ture of about 70°. This degree of heat is quite suffi-

40 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

cient, it should not be allowed to drop below 65°. A
higher temperature will cause the plants to grow spin-
dling and weak.

After the seeds have germinated it is important to
keep the soil evenly moist; if it is allowed to become
dry beneath the surface the plants will rapidly damp off.
It is the better plan to place the pots, or pans, in which
the seeds are sown, in larger pans of water up to an inch
below the level of the soil, for a few minutes, which
will afford the necessary moisture at the roots of the
young plants, and leave the tops dry, which will, in a
great measure, prevent the plants from damping off,
It is an injury to all the Begonias to wet the leaves.

When the plants have made their first pair of leaves,
they should be pricked out into shallow boxes, or potted
singly, in a soil a little heavier than that in which the
seed was sown. Then grow on in about the same tem-
perature, shading at first from the midday sun, but
always giving them an abundance of light and air. Shift
into larger pots when the ones in which they are grow-
ing are filled with roots. In this way plants from four
to six inches in height can be had to plant out into the
border by June 1st, which is sufficiently early, as they
do not like cool nights. When a really fine plant is
secured, it can be increased slowly by cuttings or by
division, when the young shoots start in spring. The
specialists in this plant keep all their extra fine and free
flowering plants for seed purposes, or for show plants,
and do not divide the tubers for several years. But the
main supply for garden decoration is kept up by young
tubers grown from seed. Tuberous Begonias flower freely.
the first year from seed, but for brilliant effects older
plants are to be preferred.

After flowering, the plants will naturally show a
disposition to rest; they should then be gradually dried
off, and the tubers kept in dry sand until about the first

BEGONIA., 41

of April, when they may be repotted in a rich soil. Use
pots sufficiently large to accommodate the tuber without
crowding the roots. If wanted for show plants, the
pots must be quite large. For a vigorous two-year-old
plant a ten inch pot will be necessary. If the plants
are to be transferred to the border, a six-inch pot will
be sufficiently large to accommodate them until they are
planted out. For the greenhouse or conservatory, the
tubers should be started as soon as they show signs of
growth, which will be early in February.

Like all other florists’ flowers, the varieties of the
Tuberous Begonias haye been, by crossing and recross-
ing, increased to a wonderful extent, so that the named
varieties first noticed have been lost sight of. The fol-
lowing species are parents of the now popular sorts, or
classes, both of the double and single varieties.

B. boliviensis.—Introduced by Messrs. Veitch &
Son, London, in 1864. It has small drooping flowers,
of a bright cinnabar-scarlet color.

B. Pearcei.—So called in honor of Mr. Pearce,
the collector for Messrs. Veitch & Son; flowers about
one inch to one and one-quarter inches across, clear
yellow ; foliage beautifully marbled.

B. Veitchii.—This was found in Peru at an eleva-
tion of 12,500 feet, and is one of the most beautiful of
the species. Its flowers are of an immense size, of an
inimitable, vivid vermillion-cinnabar red.

B. roszflora.—A species of but little value, with
flowers of a pale red color.

B. Davisii.—A very dwarf-growing species, with
scarlet flowers, and smooth glossy foliage. This has
proved of great value to the hybridists, who have, by
judicious crossing of this species with other strains
derived from the Boliviensis and Veitchii types, pro-
duced a vast number of varieties, both single and double
flowered, possessing the characteristics of a remarkably

42 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. ~

dwarf and compact habit, with moderate-sized but
brightly-colored flowers.

B. Froebelii.—A tuberous-rooted species, intro-
duced in 1872 from Ecuador; is of a remarkably dwarf
habit, with small but very bright scarlet or light crimson
colored and very showy flowers. ‘This species does not
ally itself with any other, therefore cannot be used in
hybridization. It seeds itself very freely when fertilized
by its own pollen, and the seedlings are mostly true to
the type, varying somewhat in size and color.

BELLADONNA LILY.
Synonym of Amaryllis Belladonna. See Page 10.

BELLEVALIA.
The Roman Squtll.

This genus contains but one species, B. romana,
a native of Italy. This is a very pretty plant, closely
resembling the Hyacinth; flowers small, whitish, or
violet, tinged with green. ‘They are of extremely easy
culture, perfectly hardy, and propagated freely by offsets,
or by seeds which should be sown =: soon as ripe. There
is no particular need of this in the arden, its piace being
already filled by the Hyacinth and the Scilla, which,
being well known, are more easily obtained, and are, in
every respect, quite as desirable.

RESSERA,

This beautiful bulb was first introduced into Eng-
land in 1837, but for many years its cultivation was not
attended with much, if any, success. It has recently
been again introduced into this country from Mexico, its
native habitat, and has been extensively sent out among
other novelties. A more satisfactory uttle plant cannot
well be found. When treated in the same manner as the
Gladiolus, it will flower the entire summer, and even after

BESSERA. 43

MILLA—BESSERA—CALOCHORTUS.

44 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

two or three degrees of frost it will continue to furnish its
heads of graceful, drooping flowers, bright scarlet, with
creamy-white stripes through each petal. ‘The bulb is
about the size of a crocus corm, and is readily produced
by seeds, or slowly by offsets. The bulbs should be kept
warm end dry through the winter. The Bessera requires
the same conditions of cultivation, and the same care
when at rest as the Tigridia. The flower stems are from
twelve to twenty inches in height, producing an umbel
of from twelve to thirty flowers, very useful in all natural
arrangements of loose flowers; they are especially fitted,
by contrast, to go with the Milla biflora, with its unique
pure white flowers and graceful habit. ‘The upper flow-
ers in the engraving (Page 43) are those of the Bessera.

BLANDFORDIA.

A genus of very beautiful Australian bulbs that
have long been known, and but little cultivated. ‘They
are exclusively greenhouse, evergreen bulbs, and require
some degree of attention at all times, for which cause
they are but little grown, excepting in large collections,
and where plants are not grown for their commercial
value. Although the plant belongs to the Liliaceae, its
habit of growth and general appearance more closely
resembles Amaryllidacee. It is a tuberous-rooted plant,
in consequence of which, its habit is entirely dissimilar
from that of bulbs. Its flowers are of gorgeous colors,
produced on short, strong stems, in regular umbels.
The plant requires regular greenhouse treatment, and to
be watered sparingly when not in active growth. Prop-
agation is readily effected by offsets. There are several
species, all of the same general character.

B. Cunninghamii, with coppery red flowers, and

B. grandiflora, with orange and yellow flowers,
fully represent the species.

BLOOD FLOWER.
See Heemanthus.

BRAVOA—BRODLZA—BULBOCODIUM, 45

BLOOD-ROOT.
See Sanguinaria.
BRAVOA.

This genus contains but a solitary species, B. gem-
iniflora, a very beautiful and graceful little pseudo-
bulb, a native of Mexico. It is half hardy, flowering
freely in the borders, but requiring protection during
winter. The numerous flowers are bright red, or crim-
son, borne on slender stalks about one foot high, in
clusters. The leaves are narrow, produced in a tuft,
from the center of which the flower-stalk arises. It is
rarely seen in cultivation, although well deserving it.
The plant is propagated by division.

BRODLAHA.

A genus of very pretty half-hardy bulbs, with small,
tubular flowers, mostly blue, borne in large clusters or
umbels. The leaves are rush-like, from two to four in
number; the flower stem proceeds from the root, usually
straight, slender but strong. ‘The species are of easy
culture, either in pots or in the border. Increased
freely by offsets, which should be left undisturbed with
the parent bulbs till they reach a flowering state, when
there will be a natural division, then separate and
replant in autumn.

BRUNSVIGIA.
See Page 18.
BULBOCODIUM.

These are very pretty bulbous plants, somewhat
resembling the crocus. There are, in the genus, two
distinct classes, one flowering in the spring, the other
in autumn.

B. vernum.—Among the earliest of spring-flower-
ing plants, the flowers preceding the foliage; and, like

46 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

the majority of bulbs, it delights in a rich sandy loam.
In such positions it flowers freely and increases rapidly
by division. When in favorable positions the bulbs will
increase so rapidly that they should be separated and
replanted every second or third year. The flowers are
crocus-like, of a purple-violet color, with white spots,’
usually two or three from a bulb. ‘There is a desirable
variety, with purple flowers striped with white.

B. versicolor.—Flowers in August, but is rarely
seen. In general character and habit it resembles the
spring-flowering species, which is the more highly
esteemed because it is a spring flower. None of the
crocus tribe would be extensively cultivated but for the
fact of their being about the first to welcome spring.

BUTTERFLY WEED.
See Asclepias tuberosa, Page 33.
CALADIUM.

The Caladium has but few rivals in the list of orna-
mental leaved plants, if taken at the height of its beauty,
which is in midsummer. Jn point of general usefulness
it does not rank very high, as it is only adapted for the
greenhouse. ‘The delicate texture of its leaves will not
permit of other than the most careful handling, and
they must have the humid atmosphere which the green-
house alone affords. High temperature, great moisture,
without direct sunshine, and protection from cold drafts,
are the conditions favorable to its perfect development. |
The genus is found in the tropical swamps of Brazil,
growing in soil as rich as decayed vegetation, aided by
tropical suns, can make it. While the roots cannot
have too much moisture, nothing is more fatal to the
foliage than water. Like most tropical plants, it desires
alternate seasons, or periods, of active growth and abso-
lute rest. The Caladium is not a difficult subject to
grow to perfection, when liberally treated. But it will

CALADIUM,. 47

not tolerate neglect in any form. Its mission is to grow
beautiful, and grow it will if it is surrounded with con-
ditions favorable to its development. When it starts, it
is for the greatest possible size of leaf, and the most
beautiful and positive markings. These will be secured
if the plant is in no way restricted ; it must not receive
a check, either from want of heat, moisture, or from

FANCY-LEAVED CALADIUM.

cold drafts; and while the atmosphere in which it grows
should always be moist, water should always be given at
the root, and never on the leaf. If the plant receives a
check, it will never after make a satisfactory growth.

ee

48 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS,

Fine specimen plants can be obtained by potting a
number of small tubers in a large pot, in case a large
tuber of a desired kind is not at hand, but it is better to
pot a single tuber. In potting, soil is of less importance
than method. ‘The finest specimens we have ever seen
on exhibition were potted in soil taken from the rubbish —
heap, which was a mixture of everything from the
greenhouse. Good drainage is of the first importance.
The tubers must commence their growth before potting,
if success is to be attained. This will be about the first
of March; then they should be potted and placed in
position for active growth. For purposes of sale, the
large tubers, after getting well started, may be cut into
pieces, a single sprout to each; these should be put in
three-inch pots, shifting into a large size if the growth
demands it. If the plants can have a slight bottom
heat, growth will be accelerated. Water should be
applied sparingly at first, but when the pots are filled
with roots, too much cannot be given them. Liquid
manure should be given at least twice a week. As
growth advances, temperature and humidity should
hkewise increase. Shade the leaves from the midday
sun, otherwise give them all the hght possible. After
the plants have perfected their growth, and the leaves
begin to wither, gradually withhold water, but keep up
the temperature until the tuber and soil are thoroughly
dry; then place the pots in a dry, warm place, until the
following spring, when the operation is to be repeated.

The varieties of the Caladium are almost innumer-
able, the result of growing from cross-fertilized seed.
Growing the Caladium from seed is a simple matter.
Sow the seed in pans or boxes, soon as ripe; prick out
into thumb-pots when an inch high, and grow on in the
manner as is recommended for the tubers. Give them a
rest when they show, by the drooping of the leaves, that
they require it. For Caladium esculentum see Colocasia.

CALIPHRURIA—CALLIPRORA—CALLA 49

CALIPHRURIA.

The two species that go to make up this genus, C,
Hartwegiana and C. subedentata, were formerly included
in the genus Hucharis. They are of the same general
character, and require, in all respects, the same treatment.
The flowers are greenish-white, petals reflexed, and the
tube much deeper than that of the Eucharis.

CALLA.
See Richardia.
CALLIPRORA.
A synonym of Brodiza, Page 45.

CALOCHORTUS.
Mariposa Lily.

This very interesting genus of bulbs was discovered
in California, in 1826. The flowers somewhat resemble
the Tulip in shape, and are popularly called, in some
places, California Tulips. ‘The colors of the flowers are
various, white, purple and yellow, with superb rich
markings. They are free-flowering bulbs, when grown
in a moderately light soil, not very wet. ‘They are best
grown when treated in the same manner as most summer
flowering bulbs, being planted in the open border, when
the soil is in good condition for working. They look
best in masses, or clumps, with their colors mixed; in
this way there is a constant change in the appearance of
the bed, always some new feature, and during the sum-
mer, from July until September, a rare display. The
bulbs should be kept warm and dry during the winter,
covered with dry moss or sand. ‘They are rapidly
increased by offsets, or from seed. The latter method is
rather slow, as they do not flower until the third year.
If well protected against frost and water, the bulbs are
best left in the ground during winter.

4

50 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

There are many so-called species, but what the
specific differences are is rather hard to define. Varie-
ties would seem the more correct term to use. Of these,
the following are the most desirable.

C. albus (Cyclobothra alba).—This is one of the
most beautiful of this genus; snow white, with a rich
blotch.

C. pulchellus (Cyclobothra).—Flowers drooping,
globose, colored yellow with greenish purple markings.
See the lower flowers in engraving on Page 43.

- C. purpureus (Cyclobothra).—A very pretty spe-
cies with purple flowers.

C. luteus.—Rich yellow, with crimson patch and
a blotch of greenish sulphur at the base of each petal.

C. Benthami.—Yellow, with numbers of brown
spots at the base.

C. macrocarpus.—Deep purple lilac; peculiar
and rich.

C. Greenii.—Fine large lilac, splashed and coy-
ered with orange; rich and striking.

C. splendens.—Blue and white; large and showy.

C. magenteus.—White, marked with rosy red.

C. venustus.—This is often called the California
tulip; handsome white flowers, with a yellow base
stained with crimson.

C. Nuttallii.—White, blotched with purple. Syn.
with C. Leichtlinit.

CALOSCORDUM.

A very pretty bulb from Chusan, producing its
umbels of rose-colored flowers, in the manner of the
Nerine. It requires the same treatment as the Calo-
chortus.

CALOSTEMMA,

A small genus of handsome greenhouse bulbs from -
New Holland. The flowers are funnel-shaped, yellow,

CAMASSTA, 51

CAMASSIA ESCULENTA,.

52 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

purple or white. For general cultivation they are worth-
less, the beauty of the flowers not being worth the care
and attention it costs to produce them.

CAMASSIA.

A small genus of hardy bulbs common in some of
the Western States, and closely allied to Scilla, or Squill.
They are entirely hardy, and can be rapidly increased by
division, or from seed.

C. esculenta.—The more common species some-
what resembles the common blue hyacinth, but is much
larger. The leaves are about a foot long, very narrow,
and grooved through the center. ‘The flower-stalks
grow from one to two feet high, and bear large, showy
purple flowers. The roots of this species were largely
employed as food by the Indians, the various tribes visit-
ing the plains for the purpose of collecting them, imme-
diately after the plant had flowered. The Indian name
for the species is Quamash. It is well worth cultivating.
The only Eastern species is C. /rasert, or Wild Hyacinth,
which is not cultivated.

CANNA.,
Indian Shot.

Although the Canna is not a bulb, it is always asso-
ciated with bulbs. It would seem out of place anywhere
else, and a list of bulbs would appear incomplete without
it, as would any collection of ornamental plants. But
few plants are better known than the Cannas, and few
less appreciated. Because of the free-growing habit,
thriving under almost any circumstances, they are gen-
erally grown without care and in a manner that does not,
in any degree, develop their beauty or usefulness. To
have Cannas in perfection, the soil must be worked deep
and made very rich. They are gross feeders, and enjoy
moisture in proportion. Although a swamp plant, it

CANNA. 53

will thrive most luxuriantly in dry soil, if made rich.
For large groups on the lawn, for planting against fences
or unsightly places it has no equal in the list of orna-
mental plants. One of its great attractions is that it
will grow anywhere, and always ornament its surround-
ings. The tubers should be planted singly, about one
and a half feet apart, as soon as general gardening opera-
tions commence. Whether in clumps or in rows, the
plants will completely cover the ground, forming an
impenetrable screen when planted at that distance apart.
After the frost has destroyed the beauty of the foliage,
the roots should be taken up and kept during winter in
a dry warm room or cellar.

The varieties are readily produced from seed, which
is best planted singly in small pots, although they seed
themselves freely, and come up like weeds where once
grown. ‘This, however, does not apply to the large
flowering species, which do not seed freely unless
artificially fertilized. The species are all tropical or sub-
tropical plants, being found abundantly in the East and
West Indies, Central and South America. One species,
C. flaccida, is common in some of our Southern States.
Botanically they are allied to Maranta, Calathea, and to
the Ginger family. One of the species, C. edulis, is
extensively grown in Peru and the Sandwich Islands as
a vegetable ; it also yields a large quantity of arrowroot.

Many of the species have long been cultivated for
their beautiful flowers and foliage. Parkinson, that
admirable gardener, described the method of growing
them, in a manner peculiarly his own, in his ‘‘ Flower
Garden,” published in 1629. There is also an excellent
copperplate illustration of C. indica, in ‘‘ Florilegium
Renovatum,” published in 1612, showing that the plant
was highly appreciated in that early day. But few of
the species are in general cultivation, the labors of the
hybridist having given us new forms, desirable because

54 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

of their dwarf habit and ever-blooming qualities. To
the French gardeners we are indebted for a new and dis-
tinct class of dwarf plants, which are giving a decided
impetus to Canna culture. Their dwarf habit, hand-
some flowers, and the freedom with which they are pro-
duced, are making them great favorites for the conserva-
tory or greenhouse culture. In color the flowers are
rich crimson and bright yellow, with all the variations
that these colors can produce. This class is popularly
known as Crozy’s Dwarf Cannas. How much credit is
due Mon. Crozy for originating this popular class is a
question, as we find in Loddiges’ Botanical Cabinet,
1820, a colored engraving of an almost perfect flower of
the variety known as Mad. Crozy, and is there classed
with the species as C. Aura-Vittata. He is, however,
entitled due credit for introducing so valuable a class of
plants. American florists have taken up the work of
cross-fertilization, and have already raised from seed
some of the most showy, as well as the most dwarf, of
any yet sent out.

Star of 1891 is an American variety worthy of
special notice. ‘The whole height of the plant does not
exceed eighteen inches. The flowers are bright orange-
crimson, and so closely arranged in the spike that it is
more the form of the Tritoma than the Canna. The
parentage of these dwarf forms is undoubtedly the species
found in Peru, prominent among them being C. Auwra-
vittata, as described by Loddiges, and that for garden
decoration they have no superiors. Of the species and
varieties, a few of the more valuable for general cultiva-
tion are:

C. iridiflora (Iris-Flowered Canna).—One of the
most showy of the species, growing from six to nine feet
high, with long, broad, rich bright green foliage. A
native of Peru. To flower freely it should have a good
sunny situation, and a rich soil. The importance of

5d .

56 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

this species is its supposed parentage to C. Ehemanni and
others of the large-flowering class.

C. Ehemanni.—This is a desirable plant, and one
of the best of the tall-growing kinds. Its foliage is
heavy and rich. The plant grows from five to seven
feet high, and is remarkable for its large rosy-pink flow-
ers, which are produced in abundance the entire summer.
The roots should be kept in a partial growing state the
entire season. If allowed to dry out in winter, they lose
vitality, and if kept moist and rather cool, they will rot.
If potted and grown in the greenhouse they will flower
during the winter, and will be dwarf in habit.

C. Noutoni.—This is, in all respects, similar to
the above, excepting in the color of its flowers, and
requires the same general treatment. Its flowers are
cardinal-colored, very large, and freely produced. The
plant presents a mass of bloom the entire summer.

C. robusta.—For the sub-tropical garden, this is
the most desirable of all Cannas. It rarely flowers, but
will grow from nine to twelve feet high, producing its
gigantic leaves, of a reddish-brown color, most luxuri-
antly. These leaves may be seen four feet in length and
one and one-half feet in width. It should always be
found in the center of the group, with Noutoni next,
outside of which should come the dwarf varieties. These
form a bed perfect in outline, and one of the most showy
and attractive that it is possible for plants to produce.

C. muszfolia (Banana-like). Isa suitable compan-
ion to the last; habit very similar, differing in the foli-
age, which is bright green. |

Premices de Nice.—This is an attractive plant,
growing from three to four feet high, with a profusion
of bright canary yellow flowers.

With the Canna, as with most other plants, new
varieties are being constantly introduced, so that to fur-
nish anything like a complete list, would simply be an

CANNA. 57

impossibility. Of the dwarf varieties, the following list
is all that can be desired :

C. Childsi (The Tiger Canna).—The plants begin
to produce flowers when only two feet high and continue
blooming very freely till frost. It can also be flowered
in pots during winter and is very beautiful. The flowers
are borne in large compact panicles, are of large size and
perfect shape, with broad petals, and of a bright glossy
yellow color, thickly spotted with crimson.

Antoine Crozy.—Flowers deep crimson, light
green foliage.

Emile Leclerc.—Flowers golden yellow, mottled
crimson and scarlet, deep green foliage.

Admiral Courbet.—Flowers light yellow, speckled
and blotched with orange scarlet, light green foliage.

Edouard Andre.—Deep carmine flowers, choco-
late foliage.

Flamboyant. — Flowers crimson lake shaded
orange, deep metallic green foliage.

G. Couston.—F lowers light primrose yellow, mot-
tled bright orange.

J. Cardioux.—Flowers brilliant cardinal red.

Louise Chretien.—F lowers clear yellow, speckled
and splashed with orange.

Mme. de Liabaud.—A grand variety; flowers
deep carmine lake, sea-green foliage.

Revol Massot.—F lowers carmine red, lower pet-
als blotched with golden yellow.

Ulrich Bruner.—F lowers orange red, lower petals
striped yellow, deep green foliage.

As flowering plants, the dwarf varieties, Crozy’s
Cannas, are the most desirable. But for the sub-tropical
garden, some of the taller growing sorts, particularly
those with bronze leaves, are by far the most effective.

58 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PILANTS.

CARPOLYSA.

A very pretty Cape of Good Hope bulb, allied to -
and requiring the same treatment as the Ixia. There is
but one species discovered, the C. spiralis. The flowers
are produced in an umbel, being white tinged with pink.
The plant has no real merit for cultivation.

CHLIDANTHUS.

This is a very pretty Amaryllis-like flower, bright
yellow, and fragrant. ‘The bulbs should be planted in
the same manner as the Gladiolus, but in a dry and well-
drained soil, as they are impatient of water. The bulbs
should be kept dry and warm during winter. C. fragrans.
is the only species, and this can only be found in botan-
ical collections.

CHORETIS.
See Hymenocallis.
CLIMBING LILY.

See Gloriosa.
CLIVIA.

A very pretty genus, represented by one species only,
C. nobilis, a native of the Cape of Good Hope. It is
nearly related to the Amaryllis. It is a greenhouse plant,
and when once established, flowers profusely. The flow-
ers are drooping, from forty to fifty on a well-furnished
spike, of a delicate flesh-color throughout the greater
part of the tube, heightening to a deep red. ‘The plants
are increased rapidly by division. They require but
little care, heat being about the only essential. When
at rest they can be kept under the stage, or bench, and
watered only occasionally.

COBURGIA.
See Stenomessen.

COLCHICUM—COLOCASTA,. 59

COLCHICUM.

Meadow Saffron.

The flowers of the various kinds of Colchicum so
closely resemble the different sorts of Crocus as not to be
distinguishable to the common observer; the differ-
ence being a botanical one, and consists in their hav-
ing six stamens instead of three, and three styles instead
of one. ‘The species are indigenous in the temperate
climates of Europe, and are largely cultivated for their
medical properties. ‘They prefer wet meadows, which
they often cover with their purple crocus-like blossoms.
The flowers come up through the ground without the
leaves, in autumn. The leaves do not appear until
spring; then they should have careful attention, as, if
they are cut off or injured in any manner the bulb will
not make sufficient growth to flower the following
autumn. ‘They prefer a light soil, which should either
be protected with a light mulching, after the foliage has
died down in early summer, or by a growth of some
annual, in order to keep the ground cool. It is better
to let them remain in the ground undisturbed for several
years. Ifaremoval becomes necessary, from any cause,
it is better to replant with as little delay as possible.
All the species have the same general character; a par-
ticular description of each is unnecessary.

COLOCASIA.,

Among the species that make up this genus may be
found some very interesting plants for greenhouse culti-
vation and for the sub-tropical garden. The genus is
closely allied to Caladium, and most of the species are
known under that name.

C. macrorhiza (Alocasia macrorhiza).—A native
of the Sandwich Islands, where it is largely cultivated
as an article of food, and is popularly known as Taro.
The root-stalks contain large quantities of starch, and

60 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

furnish a staple article of diet among the natives. The
leaves are likewise used as a vegetable. A variety of this
species, C. m. variegata, is an interesting greenhouse
plant, remarkable for the bold and distinct markings of
the leaves, consisting of light green and pure white.
Its cultivation should be the same as the Caladium.

C. esculenta (Caladium esculentum). This is the
Tanyah of the Southern States, and was formerly con-
siderably used by the negroes as an article of food. The
roots are boiled and eaten like potatoes. The tubers
increase in length annually by the new growth, like
those of the Calla, and this new growth is not eaten, it
being too acrid. The part used is the previous year’s
growth. This species makes a beautiful plant for lawn
decoration, either pianted singly, in clumps, or for bor-
ders of sub-tropical groups. Its requirements are a deep
rich soil, and plenty of moisture. If these are provided
a single plant will grow six feet in height, with leaves
four feet long and three feet wide. ‘To secure a speci-
men of this kind the plant should have a pail of water
given it every day that it does not rain. The market is
supphed with the tubers of this species from Florida,
where it is extensively grown on marshy ground. A
variety from Cuba is found in the markets, but it is not
as desirable, as the leaves are smaller and the stems
purplish.

C. odorata.—This has large cordate leaves, with
rounded lobes, and forms a stem-like root, often several
feet in height. It is a splendid plant for garden
decoration. ;

There are several other species and varieties, but
there have been so many changes in their classification,
that much confusion exists in regard to their nomencla-
ture, the same species being, at different times, called
Caladium, Alocasia and Colocasia,

COMMELINA—CONANTHERA—CONVALLARIA. 61

COMMELINA.
Day Flower.

A genus of very pretty native plants, annuals and
perennials, hardy and greenhouse tratlers; common
throughout the Southern States. The only species of
value as a flowering plant is C. celestis, which makes an
excellent border plant. Its flowers are blue, and of
more intensity than perhaps can be found in any other
vegetable form. The tubers should be taken up in
autumn, and given the same attention as is paid to the
Dahlia, only that in spring they may be planted without
first being started into growth.

CONANTHERA.
Cummingia.

A very rare bulb, native of Chili, and of difficult
culture. The plants grow in winter, flowering in April,
after which they require rest the entire summer. In
their native habitat the natives use the roots—which
taste, when cooked, not unlike sweet chestnuts—as an
article of food. The flowers are blue, but are not of
sufficient importance to compensate for the room they
would require in the greenhouse.

CONVALLARIA.
Lily of the Valley.

Of this genus there is but one species, Convallaria
majalis, so common in our gardens, and one of the
most important in the list of florists’ flowers. The
species is widely disseminated, being found plentiful in
England, but by far the most common in the province
of Hanover, Germany, where it completely covers the
ground, in the woods, and will tignt for possession in
the cultivated fields. At the time of flowering, the air is
scented for a considerable distance by the agreeable per-

BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

2
and

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CONVALLARIA, 63

fume. The woods about Hanover, as well as in other
parts of Germany, are regularly visited on Whit Monday
by numerous parties from the cities, who go to gather
these May-flowers (Maiblumen), and the forest, on that
day, is a scene of festivity and mirth. From the earliest
dawn to the closing of the day the roads leading to the
forests are thronged by persons of all ages, and nearly
every house is furnished with the Whitsuntide bouquet
of Lilies of the Valley. An apparently identical species
is found in our country, on the higher Alleghanies to
the Southward.

Although not a bulb, its position, commercially,
entitles it to the same place in this book that it occupies
with the florist and seedsman in their business, which
isan important one. The value of the Lily of the Valley
pips used for forcing, by the florists, is more than
double of that of any one kind of bulb. There are a num-
ber of florists in this country, each of whom force half a
million pips annually. So systematic has become the
method of forcing, that the flowers can be obtained
every week in the year from our leading florists. For
this purpose a supply is constantly kept in cold storage,
até a temperature just above freezing point, and brought
forward in lots of from 5,000 to 50,000, as the market
demands. The supply is wholly from Germany, and
there are two varieties, or, rather, trade sorts. One is
known as Hamburg, the other, Berlin pips, the differ-
ence between the two being considerable. The Ham-
burg pips are larger, and later in coming into flower.
The Berlin pips are much sought because of earliness,
the size of the pips making no difference in the length
of the spike, or the number of bells on the same.

The difference between the two classes arises from
the conditions of soil and locality only. Hamburg pips
are grown near Berlin, and Berlin pips near Hamburg.
From any dealer in either city both varieties can be

64 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

obtained. Where the soil is very heavy and wet, the
season of growth will be longer, and the pips larger and
stronger. This is the character of much of the land
near Hamburg; but for that market many pips are
grown miles away, where the soil is of a lighter or sandy
nature, more like that of Berlin. The pips ripen
earlier, are not as large, and are, in all respects, like
those from Berlin, where the soil is light. Pips, for
market, must be three years old, to produce satisfactory
spikes of bloom. In a heavy soil, pips two years old will
be as large as those, grown in a lighter soil, will become
in three years, but they will not do for the florist, as the
spikes will contain but half as many bells as they should.
Two-years-old pips are often sent to this market; they
have sold well, because they look well, but the results
were disappointing, and the fault has generally been laid
to the grower, when it is due to those who wish to sell
cheap.

The perfection of soil for pips would be a rather
heavy loam, made rich, and the location should be on a
southern slope, where it would be dry, warm and airy.
There the pips would grow strong and ripen quickly,
consequently they would get sufficient rest to force early.
Such a condition of soil and climate is found in some of
the valleys of the Harz mountains, where the Lily of the
Valley is extensively grown, and for early forcing there
is none better, if as good. These pips bring the highest
price of any in the market. In other words, the dealers
charge a higher price for these than for any others,
simply because they are better, although the Hamburg.
merchant is very careful not to mention locality as the
cause of good pips, prefering his own reputation to
stand for that. In evidence of this we would say, that
one of the largest and most successful florists, near New
York, last year tried, as an experiment, twenty-five
thousand of these pips, and they gave him ninety-five

CONVALLARIA. 65

per cent. of perfect flowers in December, something pre-
viously unheard of in the culture of this flower, at that
season. This result came because the pips had their
needed rest after being fully matured and ripened. Had
they been four weeks longer in growing, as they are in
some other localities, they would not have endured the
forcing necessary to produce early flowers. Pips grown
where they mature later, are equally as good for late
winter or spring flowers, and better for very late flowers,
after having been in cold storage.

The culture of the Lily of the Valley is simple, yet,
if not understood, failure will ‘surely result. The
method generally pursued is to place the pips in shallow
boxes, say four inches deep, although three inches is
quite sufficient, in soil or sphagnum, it matters but little
what, as the pips do not throw out new roots, but sub-
sist wholly on the food stored up in their growth, and
the water given during the forcing period. One inch
apart each way is sufficient space; some grow them
even closer, but we should not recommend it. The best
way is to set the flat, or box, on the bench, at an angle
of about forty-five degrees, put half an inch of soil, or
moss, or a mixture of both, at the end, then a row of
pips, and alternate one inch apart, until the box is filled ;
the top of the pip should be but little below the surface.
When full, water thoroughly. Place the boxes, as filled,
in a cold frame or shed, where they can have a little
frost, but not severe freezing. Some mulching should
be thrown over the tops, to prevent freezing, as well as
to keep the air from them. They should remain in this
condition, at least, four weeks, when they may be
brought into the forcing house as wanted. The putting
of the pips into the boxes should commence as soon as
they arrive from Europe, as they are liable to get heated,
more or less, in passage, which starts them into growth.
The longer they remain unpacked, unless they are placed

66 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

in cold storage, where they cannot start, the more dan-
ger there is of their starting, and if started before they
are put into boxes they will not perfect their flowers.

A wide difference of opinion exists as to the temper-
ature into which they should be placed. But the most
approved plan seems to be to start them in a low temper-
ature, say from 50° to 60°, and running it up as high as
90° before they come into flower; after that place them
in a cooler house, say from 60° to 70°, to harden off.
Most growers keep them dark until considerable growth
is made, to draw them up as much as possible. We
have seen them flower to perfection when the boxes were
placed underneath the benches, on the pips, bringing
them into full light after the first bells were opened.
But good strong spikes of bloom are best obtained when
they have plenty of light and air, and with a temperature
of 85° to 90° after they are first started.

They may be started and flowered in pots very suc-
cessfully, by following the same course of treatment
from the start. Twenty-five pips can be grown in a
seven-inch pot, and, when they are well grown, they
meet a ready sale in the markets. Although there is
but one species, there are several varieties, among them
a pink-flowered sort, and a double-flowered variety,
neither being useful nor beautiful.

COOPERIA.

A genus of bulbs allied to the Zephyranthes, but of
larger bulb, stronger habit of growth, and producing
larger flowers. The flowers are mostly white, and they
open quite flat, always first expanding at night, but
when once open they remain until the petals fall. They
are, properly, winter-flowering plants, and it is difficult
to keep the bulbs in a condition for summer flowering.

C. pedunculata.—Decidedly the best of the species
for the garden; its flowers are produced solitary, but in

CORBULARIA—CRINUM—CROCUS. 67

succession, so that a clump of them will be in continu-
ous bloom from June until September. They can be
increased rapidly from seeds or from offsets. ‘The bulbs
must be kept dry und cool, but away from frost during
winter, and planted with other summer flowering bulbs
in spring. They also flower well during winter in the
house, but they will not there take the place of winter-
flowering bulbs.

CORBULARIA.
A synonym for Narcissus Bulbocodium.
CRINUM.
See Page 19.
CROCUS.

This well-known genus of early spring and autumn
flowers contains about ninety distinct species, but few of
which, however, are now included among our garden
flowers. The many choice varieties which are the results
of hybridization, have taken the place of the species.
The crocus is divided into two distinct classes, the spring
and the autumn flowering. ‘The spring-flowering crocus,
Crocus versicolor, is of the easiest culture ; but it is well
to remark, that the too common practice of putting
them into poor and badly prepared ground, is simply
doing them great injustice. While they will flower with
little or no care, they amply repay the best possible
attention ; a well-prepared bed of deep rich soil is their
delight. In such a soil the number of flowers will, at
least, be doubled, and their size materially increased.
They also want a dry situation; one where water stands
during winter is fatal to the solid bulb or corm.

Many complaints are made by amateurs of their
Crocuses not flowering; there is really but one cause of
failure when a new bed is made, and newly imported
corms are planted ; that is, the work is too long delayed.

68 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

If Crocuses are to be planted at all, they must be planted
at the proper time, which is as soon as the corms can be
procured in the autumn after their arrival from Europe.
They usually commence growth by the first of Septem-

ZHAN.
Yi YA

SPRING FLOWERING CROCUS.

ber, and if planting is long deferred the germ is
destroyed ; for grow they will, whether in or out of the
soil. Planting should not be deferred later than the
first of October, if the best results are to be attained.

CROCUS. 69

The corms should be planted, at least, three inches deep,
for as the new corms form above or beyond the old ones,
they will, in a few years, push themselves out of the
ground if planted too near the surface. The corms may
remain where planted for three or four years, without
removal, or as long as they continue to flower well.
When a change becomes necessary, take up and replant
the same day if possible, and do it as soon as conyenient
after the foliage has dried up.

One of the peculiarities of Crocuses is, that when
they are in flower the seed-vessel is still under ground,
almost close to the corm; and it is not till some weeks
after the flower has decayed that it emerges, on a white
peduncle, and ripens its seeds above the ground. Cro-
cuses should not be planted in a shaded situation, as
they require full sunlight to mature their foliage, upon
which their next season’s flowering depends. In plant-
ing them, there are two important considerations; the
first is situation. Shade must ever be avoided, for with-
out sunshine the Crocus is without a home. Select
some warm cozy corner, where the sun delights to linger,
and there plant the corms. The next consideration is
selection, and that is, in a large measure, a matter of
taste. The quality of the corms, however, is very im-
portant, and should, in all cases,.be of the best. We
always advise the planting of named varieties; not that
a plant is any better for its having a name, but for
the fact that small-sized inferior bulbs are put into the
mixtures, while the best bulbs are sold under names. And
it is as well to remark here that the Dutch bulb-growers
do not grow anything in mixture; everything is under
name, and mixtures are of surplus stock and second
quality of bulbs. Color, and arrangement in planting,
is a matter of choice. Having determined upon that,
select the best bulbs to secure your object. A few of
the best are:

70 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

White.—Mont Blanc, La Neige, and Queen Vic-
toria.

Yellow.—Large Yellow, Largest Size.

Blue.—Large Blue, and Lord Palmerston.

Purple.—In this class the blues might have been
placed, as a really blue crocus does not exist; those
named simply approach the blue. Purple with white
markings, white and yellow are the predominating col-
ors of the crocus, and these contrast finely together.
The best purples are :

Large Purple.—Chas. Dickens, Sir John Frank-
lin, and Othello.

The following are fine marked and striped, and are
remarkable for the size of their flowers.

General Garibaldi.—White, striped with pe

La Majesteuse.—Large, violet-striped, on a deli-
cately tinted very firm ground.

Ne Plus Ultra.—Blue, with white border.

Lady Stanhope.—Violet, light border.

Pride of Albion.—Very large and fine, white,

wiped with lilac.

Sir Walter Scott.—Finely striped, purple and
white, one of the best.

Prince of Wales.—Violet and white.

The Crocus for the Window Garden.—The
Crocus does admirably as a pot plant, but to insure suc-
cess the corms should be planted, five or six in a five-
inch pot, as soon as they can be obtained in autumn.
Plunge the pots in coal ashes outside until they are filled
with roots, which will be by the first of December, when
they may be brought into the house, gradually bringing
them to the light, but at no time giving them heat.
Full light and a temperature not above 50°, will bring
them into flower, each bulb giving several blooms. High
temperature will surely blast the flowers.

Autumn Flowering Crocus. —These are rarely
seen in cultivation, from the fact of their coming into

CROCUS—CROWN IMPERIAI-—CUMMINGIA, 71

flower when our gardens are filled with flowers useful
for cutting, more showy, and in every sense more
attractive. However beautiful a flower may be in its
grassy bed, if it cannot be made to appear beautiful as a
cut flower, it has but a small place in the garden. The
species of this class are:

C. sativus (Saffron Crocus).—A very handsome
plant, with flowers of a pale purple or violet, readily dis-
tinguished from all the other species, by the prominence
of its stigmas. These stigmas, when dried, form the
saffron of commerce. The flowers and leaves of the
Saffron Crocus appear simultaneously in September. It
is a very ornamental species, and requires no further
care than planting in spring in any good garden soil, its
preference being for one of a sandy nature.

C. serotinus.—A purple-flowered species from
the Crimea, occasionally found among the rocks by the
sea shore in Portugal.

C. speciosus (Showy Crocus).—The most beauti-
ful of all the Crocuses, from the large size of its flowers,
which appear, in October, without the leaves; the latter
are not protruded until the flowers are withered. The
withered flowers remain on the plant till the ripening of
the seed, which takes place the following April or May.
It differs from all other Crocuses, in thriving under the
shade of trees, and in preferring a situation near the
water.

CROWN IMPERIAL.
See Fritilleria.
CUMMINGIA.
A synonym of Conanthera. See Page 61.
CYANELLA.

A genus of very pretty little Cape of Good Hope
bulbs, with white, blue, yellow and red flowers, appear-

72 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

ing in July or August. The flowers are something like
those of the Ixia, but smaller, and are produced in clus-
ters of ten or twelve, on long pedicels spreading widely
from the main stem. The bulbs do best when left in
the ground during winter, but they must be protected
against frost, or water, by a cold frame, or liberal
mulching.

CYCLAMEN.

When well managed, there are few winter flowering
bulbs more pleasing or attractive than the Cyclamen.
They are not classed among popular plants, from the
fact that their blooms have no commercial value. But
for objects of interest, they have but few rivals in the
greenhouse or conservatory. When brought from the
greenhouse to the window garden they continue to pro-
duce their charming flowers longer than most other
plants. The genus Cyclamen contains but few species,
just how many it is difficult to say, as it is a question
upon which authorities differ, from the fact that many
varieties are included in the list of so-called species. It
is, however, to C. Persicum that we are indebted for the
many types and varieties that are commercially known
and sold under the generic name Cyclamen.

The genus has long been under cultivation as a flow-
ering plant, as we find it beautifully illustrated as early
as 1612, and from the drawings then made we can recog-
nize the most improved varieties of the present day.
The origin of one common name, Sowbread, is so old
that it is past finding out. Pliny said the roots poisoned
swine, whence the name Sowbread, or poison, was given —
it. ‘The more general, as well as the more reasonable,
inference is that it derived this name from the fact of
swine being fond of the roots, and that they are whole-
some, rather than injurious.

The only practicable way of growing the Cyclamen
is from seed, which is produced freely. It germinates

CYCLAMEN, 43

the more rapidly if sown as soon as ripe. As the plants
are wanted for winter and spring use, the seed should
be sown in pots or pans about the first of December, and
given a gentle bottom heat and a humid atmosphere.
The soil in which the seed is sown should be light, open

PERSIAN CYCLAMEN.

and friable, in order that the seedlings may be pricked
out at the proper time, without injury to their roots,
This work cannot be done all at one time, as some of
the seeds will germinate much sooner than others, and,
when up, the plants make a more rapid growth. The

74 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

seedlings should be pricked out into thumb pots when
their first ieayes are not more than half an inch in diam-
eter. The young bulbs then will be about the size of
small peas, and, in potting, these should not be placed
below the surface of the soil, which should be coarse
light and rich, with pieces of pots, finely broken, intet-
mixed, and be well drained. Although the Cyclamen
demands a moist atmosphere, and. the soil in the pots
must not get dry while the plants are in a growing state,
there is nothing more injurious to them than water, if it
stands about the roots, or the soil becomes sodden.
From the time the seed is sown until the plants are in
flower, they must never receive a check. Growth must
be rapid and steady. Frequent shiftings will be neces-
sary, at least as often as the pots are nicely filled with
roots, and in shifting, remove from one pot to another
but one size larger, always using the same kind of soil.

During summer the plants may be grown in a shaded
frame, outside, or in the greenhouse, which is, by far,
the most convenient. If in the latter, the glass should
be whitewashed, as they must be protected against the
direct rays of the sun, as well as dry atmosphere. As
early as the October after the seed is sown, the plants
will have filled five-inch pots, the bulbs an inch and a
half in diameter, and flowering beautifully, each plant
producing from fifty to a hundred blossoms. The colors
will be from pure white to the darkest purplish crimson,
with all the variations these colors will produce; the
more pleasing being pure white with crimson eye, or white
with delicate pink spots. The only enemy the Cyclamen
has to encounter is the thrip, and this will not be
troublesome if the plants are kept in continuous growth.
Should the appearance of thrip become manifest by the
curling of the leaf, remove it as quickly as possible ;
allow no foliage on the plant that is not perfectly
healthy, and this pest will soon disappear.

CYCLAMEN. i

The summer after flowering, the pots should be
plunged in some shaded border, away from drip, and
given no further thought until the first of October, when
they should be repotted. When this is done give them
entirely fresh soil, with as little injury as possible to the
old roots, carefully removing such as are dead or dis-
eased. Put the bulbs in the same sized pots from which
they were taken, and shift on into larger ones, as may
become necessary, always bearing in mind the important
fact that the plants do best with their bulbs wholly
above the soil.

THE SPECIES ARE:

C. persicum.—The species described above. A
native of Persia. Except in rare or botanical collections,
the other species are not often met.

C. africanum (African).—This species is of deli-
cate habit, with fine, large blush-white flowers.

C. cilicicum.—A native of Cilecia, and resembles
C. europeum.

C. Coum.—A native of Asia Minor; with mostly
deep red inodorous flowers; of this there are several
varieties.

C. europzeum.—This species is widely distributed
throughout Central and Southern Europe. Flowers
mostly bright red and very fragrant.

C. grecum (Greek).—From the mountains of
Greece. Flowers pure white, with a bright purple spot
at the base. The bulbs of this species are very large,
and often irregular in form.

C. hederzfolium (Ivy-leaved Cyclamen). — In
many respects this is one of the most magnificent of all
the Cyclamens. Its habit is not so graceful as that of
C. persicum, neither is it as free-flowering, but it is
more vigorous and hardy. It is found wild in some
parts of England. It is very handsome in foliage, the

76 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

leaves being quite ornamental and produced in the great-
est profusion. The flowers precede the leaves and con-
tinue from August to October.

C. ibericum (Iberian).—A native of the Caucasus ;
flowers bright red in the type, with a bright purple spot
at the base.

C. neapolitanum (Neapolitan).-—-A close alliance
with C. europeum.

CYPELLA.

A handsome greenhouse bulb, of easy culture. The
flowers are yellow, with a dark stripe down each petal.
C. Herberti, the only species, is a native of South Amer-
ica. This is one of a large class of bulbs, beautiful, but
not popular. It cannot be grown outside of the green-
house, other than in the most temperate climates, and
it has not a commercial value that will warrant green-
house care.

CYRTANTHUS.

A small genus of deciduous and evergreen bulbs,
from the Cape of Good Hope. While the flowers of the
Cyrtanthus are all beautiful, and some singularly so,
the difficulty in producing them, and in preserving the
bulbs, is so great, in proportion, that they are rarely
met. ‘They require treatment so different from nearly
all other plants, that a house must be devoted to them
alone, if success is to be attained. The ordinary green-
house is too cold and damp; the stove house is too warm
and damp. Hence the difficulty in their management.

DAFFODIL.
See Narcissus.
DAHLIA.
But few of the many genera of flowering plants have
had so many ups and downs, in the way of popularity,
as the Dahlia. When first introduced, the single forms

DAHLIA, 7

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TYPES OF DOUBLE DAHLIAS,

"8 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

created a most wonderful sensation, The fact of the
Marchioness of Bute, one of the most enthusiastic
patrons of botany, having introduced it into England
from Madrid in 1789, was a sufficient indorsement of its
beauty and usefulness, to make it at once one of the
most popular flowering plants. When the Dahlia was
first introduced into Spain, it was named by Abbe
Cavanilles, director of the Royal Gardens, in honor of
Dr. Andrew Dahl, a Swedish botanist. After that, Prof.
Wildenow, of Berlin, laboring under the impression that
the name adopted by Cavanilles had been previously
applied to another plant, discontinued the name Dahlia,
and substituted that of Georgina, in honor of Prof.
George, of St. Petersburgh. For a number of years it
was known under the latter name, and is so termed in
some of Loudon’s writings.

Its cultivation, however, did not become very gen-
eral until the illustrious naturalists, Humboldt and
Bonpland, in descending from the tableland in Mexico
towards the coast of the Pacific ocean, rediscovered it
growing on the prairies, at a height of nearly five thou-
sand feet above the level of the sea. The plants then
discovered were transmitted to the botanical garden at
Mexico, and in 1804 transferred to the various public
gardens throughout Hurope. But little progress was
made in their cultivation, or in the development of the
species, for several years thereafter. The following
account of the origin of the double forms we take from
the ‘‘ History of the Dahlia,” by Robert Hogg, Esq., of
London, published in 1853.

“*Several cultivators on the continent, observing the
natural disposition of the Dahlia to sport from its orig-
inal form, began now to direct their attention to raising
new varieties, and treating it as a florists’ flower. Many
attempts were made to procure double flowers, but with-
out success. In 1806, the gardener at Malmaison for-

DAHLIA, 79

warded to the gardener at St. Cloud all the three varie-
ties which were then known, namely, D. coccinea,
D. purpurea and D. crocata. These produced seeds,
which were sown, but, notwithstanding all the attempts
which were made year after year, they still remained
single. In Belgium, however, they were more success-
ful; for we learn that in 1812, M. Donkelaar, botanic
gardener at Louvain, having sown a quantity of seeds,
raised plants which the first year produced all single
flowers. Disappointed, but not discouraged, he from
these saved a second quantity, which, in their turn, pro-
duced semi-double flowers; and, emboldened with the
success which attained this second essay, he, from the
best of these semi-double flowers, produced a further
supply of seed, the produce of which, in the following
year, presented him with three plants which bore flowers
perfectly double. These were, therefore, the first really
double flowers ever produced. After this there were
many varieties raised, of all shades and depths of color,
and from this time the Dahlia began to attract for itself
a measure of interest, which has gone on increasing, and
which, even at the present day, seems to be as great and
unabating as if it were a plant of the most recent intro-
duction, aud which was still a novelty in the midst of us.”

The popularity of the Dahlia, at that period, was
quite as great in this country as in Europe. Exhibitions
of this flower alone were held in the principal cities, and
every encouragement was given to the production of new
varieties. From that time, until within the past few
years, when the single forms were again introduced, its
popularity waned, while the enthusiasm for the single
forms knew no bounds. Again the double forms are
attracting as much attention as they did thirty years ago ;
new varieties are being brought out, and the older ones
reinstated to their former position in the garden.

For garden display, we have no flower that can be
so successfully and satisfactorily grown as the Dahlia.

80 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

It is of the easiest culture, and a proper selection will
furnish, for two or three months of the season, a gor-
geous mass of bloom. The double Dahlias are divided

TYPES OF SINGLE DAHLIAS,

into several classes by the florists. For general display
we prefer the Pompon or small-flowered sorts. They
usually bear more and longer-stemmed flowers, standing

DAHLIA, 81

well out from the plant in regular outline. These are
far more useful for cut flowers, as they can be more
gracefully arranged.

Single Dahlias.—Where large masses of flowers
are desired these will give the greatest satisfaction, as
their flowers possess the most gorgeous colors, while the
plants are more graceful and pleasing. Notwithstanding
that the plant is of perennial habit, and is rapidly
increased by cuttings, or division of tubers, it is quite as
satisfactory when treated as an annual. When treated in
this manner, seeds from the choicest varieties alone should
be saved, such as have the largest and best formed flow-
ers, of the most positive colors and best defined mark-
ings. Seed sown in a frame, or hotbed, or even in pots
in the house, early in April, make fine blooming plants
in August, and will continue in flower until killed by
frost. September is really the month for the Dahlia ; it
is then in perfection; our hot, dry summers are not
such as the Dahlia delights in, and the single forms
seem more sensitive to the summer’s sun than do the
double ones. We should advise keeping over a few of
the most desirable forms and colors, from which to save
seed. But where a large mass is required, depend wholly
upon seedlings, which should be planted sufficiently
close to spare a few of the poorer ones, of which there
will always be a goodly number. ‘These can be thrown
out when the first flowers appear, and the remainder will
soon spread so as to cover the ground. The plants
should be set in rows four feet apart, and two feet apart
in the rows. In this way a harmony of color will be
secured that cannot be effected by artificial arrangement.
This may seem strange, as the gardener would naturally
think that with his colors all assorted he could plant
with more artistic skill than nature would employ. Not
so, however, ‘in a bed of seedlings ; there will scarcely be

two alike, with every color, from the most positive to
a

82 BULBS AND TUBEKOUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

the most delicate neutral tint, and so perfectly blended
that nothing but the most perfect harmony is visible.

The raising of Dahlias from seed is one of the pleas-
ures of gardening, and we cannot understand why the
practice is not more common, since it is attended with so
little difficulty in proportion to the success gained. ‘The
certainty of getting some very fine varieties is well bal-
anced by getting some that are not worth growing, but
these are easily thrown away, giving the remaining
plants a better opportunity for development. To get
choice seed is the important work; this, many growers
think, can only be obtained by cross-fertilization, from
which opinion we dissent. Our opinion, based on years
of experience, is that selection is the more important
work. ‘To choose for seed-bearing plants such as have
the greatest vigor, grace of habit, and, withal, such as
have the most desizable flowers, as regards color, form
and markings. Seed from medium or poor flowers
should never be saved, ncither should seeds from a plant
that has produced other than perfect flowers, and these
should be grown away from the ornamental border, as
but few flowers should be left on the plant for seed ; the
other of the buds to be taken off, in order that the seed
may have the full strength of the plant for its develop-
ment. The seed of the single Dahlia should be saved in
August, if possible; if left until the nights are cool the
flowers will have a tendency to become double; the
floral discs will elongate, to protect the seed from the
cold, which they do not do in hot weather. It is a sin-
gular fact that a low temperature is favorable for double
forms. In hot climates the flowers of the Dahlia will
not remain double, and they can only be produced by
getting tubers annually from cold climates; and it is
nearly as difficult to retain the single forms in cool
climates.

Cultivation and Propagation.—While the Dahlia
will grow wherever planted, whether the soil be heavy or

DAHLIA. 83

light, rich or poor, there is no plant that more highly
appreciates good generous treatment. ‘To produce good
double flowers in profusion, the soil must be strong,
deep and rich. The plant is a gross feeder and requires
plenty of light, room and air. With these requisites an
individual plant will yield an enormous number of flow-
ers, proportionate in size and
color. For exhibition flowers,
disbudding is necessary ; leave
but a single bud on a leading
branch, and, should the
weather be warm and dry, ar-
tificial watering will greatly
enhance the size and _ sub-
stance of the flower. The soil
should be worked often and
deep. The Dahlia is not a
weed, but a noble plant, and
as such should receive proper
attention.

Propagation is effected in a
the spring by division of the ®
tubers, which should be
started on wet moss or sand
about three weeks before it is
time for planting out in the
border. The eyes will develop
into sprouts; then, with a
fine saw cut up the tubers, leaving but a single eye
cu each piece, as shown in the illustration, plant
in the same manner as the potato. For the rapid
increase of desired varieties for purposes of sale, the
tubers should be put in the propagating bench about the
first of January, and cuttings taken off when they have
made two joints; these will root freely with slight bot-
tom heat. When nicely rooted pot off in thuml) pots,

SPROUTED DAHLIA TUBER,

84 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

and carry on into larger pots as their growth demands,
and then plant out as soon as the weather will permit.
For purposes of trade, what are known as dry pot
roots are very convenient, as they can be distributed
through the mails as easily as any small bulbs, and they
make plants, in every respect, equal to those grown from

UNDIVIDED CLUMP OF DAHLIA TUBERS.

larger tubers. These are grown from cuttings in three-
inch pots, which are plunged in ashes in a frame, to pre-
vent their roots from penetrating the soil, and grown on
during the summer, drying off in October. When dry,
they can either be shaken out of pots and stored away,
like the large tubers, or kept in the pots until wanted.
Taking up and Storing.—After the frost has
killed the tops, and before there is danger of the ground —
freezing up, the tubers can be taken up and stored in a

DAUBENYA. 85

dry room free from frost. Any treatment which will
keep the potato during the winter, will keep the Dahlia
equally well. We prefer not to take the tubers up for
at least a week after a frost, as they will ripen much
better after the tops have been killed than before, and
the tubers are not so liable to shrivel up during rest.

The species from which all the varieties, both double
and single, have originated, are as follows:

D. coccinea (Scarlet).—One of the species first
introduced, and also the one of modern introduction ;
type of the single varieties.

D. excelsa.—One of the strongest growing species ;
the stem strong and woody, rising over twenty feet.

D. gracilis (Slender).—One of the most beautiful
of the single forms; flowers bright orange-scarlet.

D. imperialis (Imperial).—A very beautiful spe-
cies in its native home, but its flowers appear so late,
that it is of little value in our gardens.

D. Juarezii (Cactus Dahlia).—This has generally
been regarded a species, but it is really a garden variety,
which originated in Mexico. It is one of the most showy
and free-flowering of the tribe. Of this type there are
several named varieties, one of which is pure white, and
all are distinct and very desirable.

D. Mercki.—A small-flowered species, with white
and yellow or lilac and yellow flowers.

D. variabilis (Variable).—This is supposed to be
one of the species first introduced, and parent of most
of the garden varieties.

DAUBENYA.

A small genus of very pretty Cape of Good Hope
bulbs requiring greenhouse culture, but needing so
much room for successful development that their culture
is not desirable.

86 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

DAY FLOWER.
See Commelyna, Page 61.
DOG’S TOOTH VIOLET.
See Erythronium, Page 88.
DRAGON PLANT.
See Arisema and Arum, Pages 31 to 33.

DRIMIA.

A small genus of uninteresting Cape of Good Hope
bulbs formerly included in the genus Lachenalia. ‘The
flowers are small and not conspicuous. This genus is
only mentioned, like many others, to caution amateurs
against its cultivation.

DUTCH BULBS, OR HOLLAND BULBS.

This term is applied by the trade, to such bulbs as
are largely grown in Holland, and includes Hyacinths,
Tulips, Crocus, Crown Imperials and Narcissus, all but
the latter being grown almost exclusively in that country.

ELISENA.

This genus contains but one cultivated species, 7.
longipetala, a native of Peru, and allied to Pancratium.
The flowers are borne in clusters on a slender scape
nearly three feet in height, and closely resemble those of
the Ismene. Its pure white, delicately formed flowers,
have a pleasing fragrance, and are worth all it costs to
produce them. They require greenhouse treatment, to
be kept very wet when in active growth, and perfectly
dry when at rest. }

ERANTHIS.
Winter Aconite.

A small genus of tuberous-rooted, hardy herbaceous
plants, natives of Italy and Siberia.

ERANTHIS—ERINOSMA. 87

E. hyemalis.—The only cultivated species. It
has a pretty little yellow flower, valuable for its early
blooming, and contrasting well with the Snowdrop, its
only companion in earliness, excepting, possibly, the
Scilla siberica, which appears before the others are
entirely passed. ‘The yellow, white and blue flowers of

ERANTHIS HYEMALIS,

the three genera, all delicate and low growing, form,
when planted in close contact, in early spring a cheering
mass of bloom. The Eranthis grows about three inches
high, producing solitary terminal flowers. The tubers
soon lose their vitality when out of the ground; they

increase rapidly, and require but little attention after
once planting.

ERINOSMA.

See Leucoium.

88 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

ERIOSPERMUM.

A small genus of Cape of Good Hope bulbs, produc-
ing their flowers before the leaves; they have neither
beauty nor interest enough to warrant their cultivation.

ERYTHRONIUM..

Dogs Tooth Violet.

A small genus of very beautiful lilaceous plants,
found throughout temperate North America. One spe-
cies is common in Europe. Why it should be called a
violet, to which it has not the slightest resemblance, is
one of the mysteries that surround plant nomenclature.
Although they are native plants, they do not thrive well
when taken from their wild homes in the moist woods.
They will, however, succeed well, if planted in moist
soil in partial shade, but they must have that protection
which nature affords them, a covering of leaves in
autumn ; this protects against cold in winter and drouth
in summer, both of which they resent. The species are:

E. dens-canis (Dog’s Tooth Violet).—This species
is common in the South of Europe, and is perfectly
hardy in English gardens, but needs protection in Amer-
ica. The flowers are variable, from white to deep pur-
ple. When once planted, the bulbs should never be
removed, unless absolutely necessary; and when they
are taken up, they should be replanted as soon as possi-
ble, as, if suffered to dry, they shrivel up and soon
decay. ‘The flowers appear in May, and contrast finely
with their beautifully variegated foliage. Propagation
is effected by offsets.

E. americanum (Yellow Adder’s Tongue).—This
is the well-known species of our woods; flowers droop-
ing, brown outside, bright yellow within; there seems
to be several varieties, with larger or smaller flowers, all
of the same general character, the difference probably
being caused by the locality in which they grow; their
foliage is beautifully spotted.

EUCHARIS. 89

E. albidum (White Dog’s Tooth Violet).—A rare
species occasionally met in Iowa and Southward; its
flowers are white, or nearly so, and the foliage is plain,
free from the markings that distinguish most of the spe-
cies. A variety of this has been discovered at Lake
Superior, with yellow flowers.

E. grandiflorum.—A species occasionally met in
the Northwestern States, and in its glory in the North-
ern Rocky Mountains. It has larger flowers than £.
americanum, but does not differ materially, from a flor-
ists’ standpoint, in other respects.

EKUCHARIS.

This genus is of recent cultivation, having been
introduced from New Grenada in 1851, where the species
are found growing in the marshes in tropical luxuriance.
The flowers are remarkable for their purity, beauty and
delightful fragrance. As flowers for florists’ use, or for
greenhouse decoration, they have no equals in the list of
bulbs. All the species require the humid atmosphere of
the hothouse, the ordinary temperature of the greenhouse
_ being too low for their perfect development. The flow-
ers are produced in trusses of from four to ten, accord-
ing to the strength of the bulb and the conditions of
growth. The impression that generally prevailed soon
after their introduction, that they were difficult subjects
to manage, was soon dispelled, and their culture became
not only common, but very profitable, until the Eucharis
insect made its appearance, since which time most grow-
ers have become so discouraged, by repeated failures,
that they have abandoned their cultivation. But for the
ravages of this pest the cultivation of the Eucharis would
be attended with as little difficulty as that of almost any
popular plant. In fact, but few subjects are more easily
managed, water and heat being their chief requisites.
Unlike many other plants, they enjoy massing, and to

90 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLAN.

grow them to the greatest perfection they should be car-
ried on from single bulbs, without division, until they
fill tubs three feet in diameter. With a sufficient num-
ber of these a succession of bloom can be obtained nearly
the whole season. The bulbs need but little rest, and
this can be so regulated, by the withholding of heat and
moisture, as to keep up the succession. Potting may be
done at any time, care being necessary so as not to injure
the roots. The soil which best suits them is a good
strong loam, with plenty of coarse sand, and made very
rich with thoroughly rotted manure; that from the cow-
stable being preferable. While in a growing state water
cannot be too freely applied, when sufficient drainage
has been provided. Liquid manure should be given, at
least, twice a week, and the plants syringed twice a day
to keep off thrip and red spiders. The temperature of
the house should not fall below 70° during winter, and
during that season give them all the sunshine possible.
To secure flowers in the winter months water sparingly
from August to October.

E. amazonica.—The type. The variety, grandi-
flora, is the larger, and by far the most desirable.

E. padi —A smaller flowered species; flowers
from three to six in an umbel, produced on spikes about
two feet high ; leaves solitary on each bulb.

E. Sanderiana.—This differs from 2. grandiflora
in the filaments and inside of the tube being yellow.
In all other respects and in general habit‘it is like the
species referred to.

EUCOMIS.

A small genus of coarse-growing Cape of Good Hope
bulbs, the only merit of which is the pleasant fragrance
of their flowers.

E. bifolia.—The best known of the species has but
two leaves, which lay flat upon the ground; flowers are
greenish, produced on short racemes.

90a

FREESIA.

FREESIA REFRACTA ALBA,

YOR BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

FREESIA.

The Freesia bulb is very easily managed, but it
admits of but one condition of growth. That is in a
cool greenhouse, and without any attempt at forcing.
The bulbs may be planted at any time from August to
October ; after that they begin to dry up and lose their
vitality. They can be grown in boxes or pots; if in
boxes they should not be less than four inches deep, five
would be better, as they root and form new bulbs deeply.
Although the bulbs are small, they succeed best when
allowed considerable room. ‘The first size should be
placed two inches apart each way, and covered with one
inch of soil. If in pots, put from five to seven bulbs in
a six-inch pot. Press the soil firmly over them, and put
the pots or boxes under the bench, giving them only suf-
ficient water to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Let
them remain until the tops appear above the surface,
then remove to the bench where they are to grow. It is
best to grow in pots, because, in case of vigorous growth,
the pots can be placed so as to give the plants the re-
quired room. The temperature of the house should not,
at any time, rise above 70° F., and good ventilation
should be secured. Never allow the soil to become dry.
After flowering they should be given more heat, to ripen
the bulbs. ‘The too common practice of putting the
plants under the bench to ripen off is not a good one, as
the bulbs produced will be small and weak. In common
with all other bulbs, the preparation for next year’s
flowers are completed this; it is, therefore, important to
give the bulbs every possible help, not only to develop
size, but blooming qualities. The species are /. refracta,
yellow, with the pure white variety, alba, and #’. Leicht-
linit, cream with orange throat, which has been classed. a
species, the two forming the genus. All the species are
fragrant, but the florist grows only /. refracta alba.

EUCROSIA—EURYCLES—FERRARIA. 91

EUCROSIA.

The only species is #. bicolor, which is a very showy
bulb from the Peruvian Andes. The flowers are bright
vermilion, with a purplish stripe on the outside of the
petals, produced in terminal clusters on the slender
scapes about a foot high. They should be grown ina
warm greenhouse, where they produce their flowers in
summer. In winter they require perfect rest; in all
respects treat the same as the Amaryllis or the Hippe-
astrum, to which natural order they belong.

EURYCLES.

A small genus of bulbs, natives of Australia, and
allied to Pancratium. ‘This plant will succeed only
with hothouse treatment. The flowers are white, and
produced in compact umbels in May. The length of
time they occupy space in the hothouse, and the care
required, is not remunerated by their flowers.

EVENING FLOWER.
See Hesperantha, Page 137.
FEATHERED HYACINTH.
See Muscari.
FERRARIA.

A small genus of Cape bulbs, valued more highly
for their singular appearance than for their real beauty.
They are of the easiest culture, flowering freely in pots
in the greenhouse in April. The bulbs are small. From
four to six can be put into a six-inch pot in autumn, and
they will commence to grow in February, when they
require plenty of air, sunlight and water. Soon after
flowering the foliage dies down, when the pots should
be put away in a dry place and remain until the time for
growth to again commence. They can then be repotted,
or grown on in the same pots, and continued on as long

92 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

as they flower well. They succeed well in a cold frame,
but must be protected against frost and water during
winter. ‘They are increased rapidly by offsets.

F. Ferrariola (/. antherosa).—F lowers green and
brown.

F. uncinata.—A curious species; flowers green,
with a bright blue mark in the center.

F. atrata.—Very brilliant purple flowers.

F. divaricata.—F lowers purple and green.

F. obtusifolia.—This is entirely distinct from the
other species by the remarkable color of its flowers, and
its potato-like root. It grows about eighteen inches
high, and branches in the form of a bush. It flowers in
June and July, and the bulbs may be taken up in the
autumn and kept during winter like those of the
Tigridia, and planted out again in early spring. This
species is deserving of cultivation, from the great beauty
and profusion of its flowers.

FLAG FLOWER.
A popular name of the Iris.

FLAME LILY.
See Pyrolirion.
FLEUR DE LIS AND FLOWER DE LUCE.
See Iris.
FRENCH TULIP.
The popular name of Tulipa sylvestris.
FRITILLARIA.
Guinea-hen Flower. Checkered Lily.

All of the Fritillarias have drooping bell-shaped

flowers, with honey drops in the cavity of each petal.
This nectar is particularly abundant in the Crown Im-
perial, so much so ag to drop if the flowers are shaken.

FRITILLARIA. 93

CROWN IMPERIAL

94 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

All the species are desirable border plants, as they are
among the earliest of spring flowers, and remarkably
showy. Most of the species are rich in spots or mark-
ings; some are checked in the manner and as regular as
the chess-board. All are of the easiest culture, and
require only to be planted in any good soil moderately
rich and made light. While they are included in our
list of hardy bulbs, and are hardy in the general accepta-
tion of the term, they are greatly benefited by a liberal
mulching of leaves during winter, quite as much to pro-
tect against alternate freezing and thawing, as against
cold. The bulbs do not require frequent changing, but
can remain a number of years after planting without
removal. As they soon die down after flowering, annu-
als or bedding plants can be planted in the same bed,
thus keeping up a succession of flowers, without injury,
in fact, with benefit to the bulb. There are many spe-
cies and varieties.

F. Meleagris.—This is the well-known Guinea-hen
flower, a native of England, growing naturally in moist
meadows or near rivers, and does not attain its full «ize
if grown in dry soil. ‘There are several varieties, differ-
ing only in the color of the flowers, which are variable
from purple to nearly white. ‘The bulb is small, white
and fiat, each bulb producing but a single flower.

F. imperialis (The Crown Imperial). This spe-
cies is a native of Persia, and was introduced into Eng-
land previous to 1596, as Gerard mentions it in his
Herbal of that date, praising it on account of ‘‘its stately
beautifulness,” and accords it ‘‘the first place in the
garden of delight.” This is the least cultivated, and,
perhaps, the least known or popular of all the bulbs, yet
it is one of the most noble of spring-flowering species,
and should be found in every collection, no matter how
small. It usually attains a height of from two to three
feet, bearing an umbel of bell-shaped flowers, red or

GAGEA—GALANTHUS. 95

yellow, of both single and double forms, on the top of a
naked flower-stem, and over them is a crown of leaves,
making it one of the most beautiful objects in the gar-
den. ‘The flowers precede those of the hyacinth, which
adds to their many attractions (See Engraving, Page 93).
While all the species are objects of interest in the garden,
those described above fully represent the genus.

GAGEHA.

A considerable genus of half-hardy bulbs, allied to
the Tulip. The flowers are yellow, produced in umbels
on short stems, and appear about the same time as the
Crocus. They are, practically, of no use in this country,
not being sufficiently hardy for open air culture, and not
worthy a place in the greenhouse.

GALANTHUS.
Snowdrop.

These elegant little flowers, the first to open in
spring, should be found in every garden, not only
because they are the earliest spring flower, but because
they are the loveliest. It is not an uncommon thing to
have Snowdrops in flower in February, at least two weeks
ahead of the Crocus, particularly if planted in some
well-protected sunny border, a place where they should
always be found. The Snowdrop thrives in almost any
situation or soil; it will live and bloom anywhere, sur-
viving more hard treatment than any other plant,
excepting grass, yet there are but few flowers that more
highly appreciate good care and culture. The bulbs
should be planted as early in the autumn as they can be
secured, as they suffer much if left long out of ground.
They should be planted in small clumps and left to care
for themselves, which they will do, whether planted in
sun or shade, under the trees or in the grass; in fact,
where anything will grow the Snowdrop will thrive. By

—

96 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

planting in different exposures, a succession may be had
from February to May. It is, however, for early flowers
that they are planted; they tell us when spring is com-
ing, and that more showy forms are soon to follow.
The few species that make up this genus are:

SNOW DROP—SNOWFLAKE.

G. nivalis.—The single form is the common Snow-
drop, a native of England, where it is found in woods
and shady dells; the double form is a garden variety of
this species, and is usually smaller than the wild single
plant.

~~

GALAXIA—GALTONIA. 97

G. plicatus (Folded, or Russian Snowdrop).—The
bulb of this species is much larger than that of the com-
mon Snowdrop, but the flower is smaller, and the petals
forming the inner part are of a deep green. The leaves
are broader than of the common kind, and they are
curiously folded at the edges, whence the specific name,
which signifies plaited or folded.

G. Elwesii.—A large-flowered form similar to the
preceding; the leaves are twisted, instead of being
folded. It was introduced from Asia Minor in 1875,
and is regarded as the finest of the genus.

GALAXTIA,

A small genus of very pretty greenhouse bulbs,
natives of Southern Africa; generally with large, showy
yellow flowers. They can be successfully grown in a
cold frame, if secure from frost, flowering in midsum-
mer. They flower freely in the cool greenhouse, but are
not of sufficient value to entitle them to the room and
care required. ‘They are produced freely from offsets.
They may be treated like the Gladiolus, but the bulbs
must be kept cool and dark, and free from frost.

GALTONTIA.

| Hyacinthus candicans.}

G. candicans, the only species, a native of South
Africa, is one of our most ornamental border plants, grow-
ing from four to six feet high, bearing from twenty to
one hundred large bell-shaped flowers of a creamy white
color, on drooping foot stalks. While it is quite as
hardy as any of the species, and is of perennial habit, it
should never be treated as such if its capabilities are to
be fully brought out. It needs to be grown from seed,
which grow readily when sown in the same manner as
the seeds of the most common garden vegetables. In
light, rich soil, flowering bulbs will be made the first

7

98 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

year; take up and store the same as Gladiolus; plant
out the following spring, and by the first of August the
flower stalks will appear; these should be immediately
cut off, at least from a portion of the bulbs, as soon as
they appear, in order to throw the whole strength of the
plant into the bulb for the next season’s flowering. The
second year from seed sowing its greatest perfection is
attained, and spikes such as we have described will be
the rule. After once flowering dig up and throw away,
as they will never after produce flowers worthy the name.
It is not worth while for the owners of small gardens to
grow their own bulbs, because of their cheapness, but
they should always plant such as have been produced in
the manner described. Well grown bulbs will be from
two to three inches in diameter.

GANYMEDES, or RUSH DAFFODIL.
See Narcissus triandrus.
GARLIC.
See Allium. Page 9.
GASTRONEMA,

See Cyrtanthus. Page 76.
GEISSORHIZA.
Tile-Root.

A considerable genus of beautiful little bulbous
plants, which were formerly considered to belong to
Ixia. They are all remarkable for their bulbo-tubers,
or rhizomes, which resemble fleshy stems, and are coy-
ered with several skins, or coatings, which lie over each
other, like scales, or the tiles of a house, beginning from
below. It is from this peculiarity that the plants take
their English name of Tile-root. They have but four

le

GEISSURHIZA, 99

leaves, all of which spring from the root, and are narrow
and bristly. The stems are simple, or branched, pro-
ducing one or two flowers each, resembling the Ixia.
The bulbs are all small, some not larger than peas, and
are, in all respects, to be managed like the Ixias. They
make beautiful pot plants, or can be successfully grown
in cold frames, in very sandy soil, and where water will
not stand over them. They are as impatient of moisture
as of cold; in fact, they will not endure either. They
are natives of Abyssinia and the Cape of Good Hope.
The species commonly met are :

G. excisa.—A small growing species, formerly
known as Jzia excisa. Flowers white, lined with pink,
and with a green center; they will only open in full
sunshine,

G. obtusa.—A stronger growing species, with straw
or buff-colored flowers.

G. Rochensis.—One of the most beautiful of the
genus, and formerly called Plaid Ixia. The bulbs
are very small, and will not remain long in a dry
state without injury. The flowers are quite brilliant,
the colors being blue, white and crimson.

G. obtusata.—An elegant species, from the abund-
ance and size of the flowers, generally producing six or
eight rich cream-colored flowers, streaked with pink on
the outside. They are without fragrance.

G. secunda.—Of this species there are two varie-
ties, one with blue, the other with white flowers. They
flower early, and can only be successfully grown in the
greenhouse.

G. vaginata.—The most showy and useful of the
species. The flowers appear in August and can be grown
in a dry border, with a protection of leaves during win-
ter. They are yellow, tipped with dark purple or black.
The remaining species are rarely met, excepting in
botanical collections.

100 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS,

GESNERA.

The Gesnera has long been classed with greenhouse
bulbous plants. The species form a varied and most
interesting class, which can only be grown in the green-
house or stove-house. They are all natives of South
America and Mexico, and are quite as remarkable for
the beauty of their foliage, which is singularly marked
and has a velvet-like appearance, as for their flowers.
The brilliant, mostly scarlet and yellow flowers, are pro-
duced on long branching stalks. ‘To grow them success-
fully they must have plenty of heat and moisture, but
in watering avoid wetting the leaves. They are easily
managed, so far as their period of bloom is concerned.
By applying or withholding water, after a period of rest,
a succession of bloom may be kept up with a few pie
the entire season.

Propagation is readily effected by cuttings of young
shoots, or by leaf cuttings if the leaf be taken off with a
bud at its base, or by division of the tubers, which
should be made when starting into growth. ‘They are
also easily grown from seed, which should be sown in
pans of sphagnum, made very fine and mixed with clean
sand, as soon as ripe. ‘The pans should be covered with
glass to avoid evaporation, and placed in a warm house.
As soon as the second pair of leaves is formed prick
out into thumb pots and grow on in a humid atmos-
phere. The plants will show when they need rest, by
the drooping and drying up of their foliage; then grad-
ually withhold water until the tops die down, after
which put them away in a dry, warm place, until their.
period of growth again arrives, which they will show by
their starting; then repot, and divide if desirable.
There are upwards of fifty species, all desirable.

GETHYLLIS.

The most diminutive genus of the Amaryllidacee.
The species are little bulbs from the Cape of Good

GLADIOLUS, 101

Hope, and are easily grown in the greenhouse in
light open soil. ‘The flowers are small, pure white, quite
fragrant, and produced on stalks that do not exceed six
inches in height. They are quite rapidly increased by
offsets. These should be separated from the parent bulb
at any time during winter, when it is at rest.

G. spiralis.—A pretty plant, with singularly
twisted foliage.

G. afra.—Botanically this is a curious plant, having
twelve fertile stamens, while all others of this natural
order have but six. The flowers are very fragrant, and are
succeeded by transparent yellow berries of a pleasant
odor, and said to be edible.

GLADIOLUS.

Although the Gladiolus has not the poetic and his-
toric associations that distinguish the Lily, it is, never-
theless, more remarkable in many respects. It is better
adapted for general cultivation than the Lily, or any
other of the many rare and beautiful kinds of bulbs.
Between the Gladiolus and the Lily there is a strange
contrast. Of all the forms of the Gladiolus under culti-
vation, embracing, as they do, some of the grandest and
most beautiful, as well as the most showy of floral forms,
rarely do we see the original species, all the varieties
that claim our attention being hybrid forms, or their
descendants, wonderfully changed by cross-fertilization.
So great have been these changes, that the original forms
are entirely changed and greatly surpassed in the beauty
of the flowers, as regards size, form, color and markings.
On the other hand, in the creation of the Lily, nature so
perfected her work that any improvement on the species
has not come within the possibilities of human effort.

From the standpoint of classification the Gladiolus
has not been improved by the changes consequent upon
hybridization. Some systematic botanists regard the

102 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS,

TYPES OF GLADIOLUS.

GLADIOLUS, 103

florists’ work as an unwarrantable interference with
nature’s plans; consequently all changes of forms are
regarded as monstrosities. But flowers are grown for
the gratification of the eye, to satisfy the thirst for the
beautiful, and in that sense they are useful, whether in
a natural or developed form. Victor Hugo said: ‘‘The
beautiful is as usefui as the useful, perhaps more so.”
Therefore, whoever adds to the beauty of a floral form,
which he cannot do without the assistance of nature,
adds to the highest and purest pleasures of life. In this
selection the Gladiolus has furnished a wide and inter-
esting field for experiment.

The Gladiolus is one of the most important genera
in the natural order, Jridacew, to which it belongs.
The genus contains about ninety species, nearly all of
which are natives of the Cape of Good Hope. The spe-
cies are remarkable for ease of culture, grace of habit,
beautiful forms, and intensity of colors, ranging from
the most vivid scariet to pure white, from clear rose to
pure yellow, and bright purple; in many of the species
the colors are happily and ‘singularly blended. The
habits of the species are as varied as their colors, some
delicate and light, others strong and robust, with con-
stitutions adapted to almost any climate that will sus-
tain vegetation. The remarkable hybrids have taken
the places of the original species, once so prominent in
our gardens, and now the latter are rarely met except
in botanical collections. This is a mistake, for many of
uhe species are well worth growing for the sake of vari-
ety, not less than for their intrinsic beauty. The more
prominent we shall notice as they deserve, in this place,
briefly referring to other species later on. The Gladi-
olus (Little Sword) derives its name from its sword-
shaped leaves.

G. communis (Corn Flag).—This species 1s found
pretty generally distributed throughout the South of

104 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS,

Europe; of this there are three varieties, white, rose
and purple, all of the same general habit. ‘They are
dwarf, rarely exceeding two feet in height. These are
incorrectly classed among our hardy bulbs. Occasionally
they will withstand the rigors of our winters, if in a
sheltered situation. In such cases, if protected by a
light mulching of leaves, they will flower very freely in
June, a season when choice flowers are in great demand.

The bulbs—corms, more correctly speaking—should be
planted in autumn, and need not be disturbed or re-

planted for anumber of years. A few clumps of each color
in the herbaceous border produce a most pleasing effect.

G. byzantinus.—A native of Turkey. The most
hardy of any of the species, and particularly desirable
for the border, as it is free-flowering. When once
planted, it may remain undisturbed, like the Narcissus,
for many years, as it produces so few offsets that it
requires a long time to become troublesome from crowd-
ing. This and the foregoing species dislike shade, and
require an airy as well as a sunny situation, for a perfect
development of flowers, It grows about two feet high,
and the spike is well filled with purplish-red flowers.

G. ramosus (Branching). — Unquestionably the
finest species of the genus. In the size and beauty of
its flowers it yields the palm to none, and on account of
its peculiarly branching habit, it may be considered the
most ornamental. In favorable situations the flower-
stems will grow five feet high, and produce a succession
of flowers from June until August. The flowers are
very large, well opened, and of good shape. The type
has flowers of a rosy-blush color, with heavy carmine
stains on the three lower divisions. There are several
distinct varieties, from which the Dutch florists have
produced, by cross-fertilization, a large number of named
sorts, all of the same general character as the species.
The leaves are broad and heavy, giving the plants a truly

GLADIOLUS. 105

magnificent appearance. This class of Gladiolus is but
little known or grown, from the fact of their not flower-
ing well, if at all, when planted in the spring, and they
are not hardy. ‘The corms should be planted in autumn,
in a situation where water will not remain about them,
and be protected against frost, either by a cold frame
or by a heavy mulching. It is difficult to make the
amateur, or even the professional florist understand
this precaution, necessary as it is for many, if. not all,
bulbs. 'The gardener seems to think that when he has
planted a bulb his work is done, when, in fact, it has but
just commenced. For the want of this attention no
class of plants suffers more than the so-called hardy
Gladiolus.

The object of this book being to assist the grower
in the work of producing flowers of such species as are
generally grown and popularly known, we shall but
briefly notice the more important of the species, some of
which are the parents of the hybrid Gladiolus so gener-
ally cultivated. All the species are from the Cape of
Good Hope, unless otherwise noted. We would remark
here, that all Cape of Good Hope bulbs will thrive under
the same general treatment. They are _half-hardy,
impatient of moisture when at rest, as their season of
flowering is the rainy season of the country, and their
period of rest during excessive drouth. They all suc-
ceed well grown in a cold frame, which protects against
both cold and moisture.

G. alatus (Winged). A very interesting little
plant; the flowers have a delightful fragrance not unlike
that of the Sweet Brier; the three upper petals are
bright orange-scarlet, the three lower ones are yellowish,
tipped with orange-scarlet. The bulbs are very small,
not larger than ordinary peas, and cannot remain long
out of ground.

G. Algoensis (Algoa Bay Hyacinth).—This and
the last are allied to the Viper species, and have the same

106 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

general appearance in form and color. It is a native of
the east coast of South Africa, a much warmer climate
than that at the Cape, yet the bulbs are more nearly
hardy in our climate.

G. albidus (White Gladiolus).—This is the nearest
toa pure white flower of any of the species, having no
color except very light stains on the backs of the petals,
before they expand. It is a low growing sort, the spikes
furnishing usually but three flowers, large and well
opened. It is rarely seen in cultivation. This is un-
doubtedly one of the parents of G. Colvillet alba (The
Bride).

G. angustus (Narrow-leaved).—One of the first
species introduced, and one of the least attractive. The
flowers are small, of a dingy white color.

G. aphyllus (Leafless)\—A curious species, its
flowers resembling more the Lomaria than the Gladiolus ;
are produced in January or February. It can only be
grown in the greenhouse.

G. blandus (Fair). A very pretty species with a
strong spike of white flowers, the lower petals having an
oval blotch of red. The flowers are alternately arranged
on either side of the stem, a form that meets with but
little favor.

G. brevifolius (Short-leaved).—A greenhouse
species, with a long naked spike of very pretty rosy-
tinted flowers.

G. campanulatus (Bell-shaped).—A very pretty
species, but its name is a misnomer, as its flowers are
less bell-shaped than most of the species. It is of dwarf
habit, with lilac flowers, the lower divisions stained
with red.

G. cardinalis (Scarlet, or Superb).—A grand
flower, and one of the parents of many of our richly
colored hybrids. It is well worthy of cultivation. In
favorable situations it will grow more than four feet

GLADIOLUS. 107

high, the stem dividing at the top into several branches,
each bearing from six to eight flowers, on one side of
the stem only; color a bright scarlet, with a white
ciamond-shaped blotch on each petal. It will rarely
flower if the bulbs are planted in the spring.

G. carneus (Flesh-colored).—An extremely hand-
some species, growing about three feet high, with broad,
sword-shaped leaves, with a narrow white margin. The
flowers are large, with a long tube, and rather narrow-
pointed petals; the lower three divisions have a brilliant
carmine diamond-shaped spot in the center of each.
The large size and beautiful color of the flowers, together
with the great abundance in which they are produced,
has caused it to be largely used asa parent of many of
our garden varieties.

G. cochleatus (Spoon-tipped).—A curious species
with white flowers; contrary to the general form, the
lower divisions are nearly double the size of the upper,
and more erect; color white, slightly stained with red,
and a compass-shaped feathery blotch. It can be flow-
ered only in the greenhouse.

G. Colvillei.—A hybrid form, so entirely distinct
from what are designated hybrids, that we give it a place
with the species. It is a cross between G. concolor and
G. cardinalis, the latter being the male parent. The
flowers are of a beautiful scarlet, softening into a purple
margin, and have a delightful fragrance. This hybrid
has the constancy of the species.

G. Colvillei alba.—Popularly known as ‘‘ The
Bride.” It is largely grown by the florists for decora-
tive purposes, as well as for all purposes where white
flowers are used. It grows freely, either planted out on
the bench or in pots. The bulbs for forcing are chiefly
grown in Holland, and should be potted immediately
after their arrival. After potting, water thoroughly,
and put them away under a bench, or in the shed, until

108 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

they commence to grow, then bring forward into a mod-
erately heated house.

G. concolor (One-colored).—This is a desirable
species, if for its color only, which is of a clear bright
yellow. It has from two to eight flowers on a one-sided
spike. In the evening it emits a fragrance like the
common pink. It must be grown in a frame, as its sea-
son of flowering will not permit of spring planting, and
it is impatient of greenhouse treatment.

G. cruentus (Bloody).—Introduced from Natal
in 1868, and is but little known. ‘The flowers are very
large, brilliant scarlet, yellowish-white speckled with
red at the base of the limb, or borne on spikes from six
to ten inches long.

G.cuspidatus(Sharp-pointed).—This is a remark-
able form because of the great length and undulation of
the petals. The cream-colored flowers are produced in
May, and have the lower petals marked with a bright
yellow spot on a rich purple blotch.

G. c. ventricosus (Swelling).—A variety with
reddish drooping flowers, with shorter tube and less
inflated spathes than the type.

G. debilis (Weak).—A species bearing solitary
flowers, differing from most others of the genus, as all
the petals are uniform, spreading open like the Ixias;
the flowers are white, with rose-colored spots on the two
inner sections.

G. dracocephalus (Dragon’s-head) —Introduced
in 1871. Flowers yellow, closely striped with dull red-
purple, about two inches long and broad, the lower sec-
tions bright green, purple spotted. More curious than.
beautiful.

G. edulis (Edible).—This species is remarkable
because of its entire want of beauty. The flowers are
white, slightly stained with pink and yellow, and so
much curled that they have a withered appearance as

GLADIOLUS. 109

soon as they expand. The bulb is oblong, firm and
white, and is roasted and eaten like chestnuts by the
natives of the Cape of Good Hope.

_ G. fasciatus.—A very pretty dwarf species, grow-
ing from six to twelve inches high. The flowers are
delicate pink, with a dark crimson streak on the lower
division. A winter flowering species.

G. floribundus(Abundant-flowering).—One of the
few species worthy of general cultivation, as it compares
favorably with many of the hybrids of recent introduc-
tion, and because of its dwarf and free-flowering habit.
Its flowers are produced abundantly on each side of the
stem, which rarely exceeds a foot in height; they are
very large, standing erect, and opening widely like small
Lilies; color white, with a bright pink stripe down the
center of each petal. They succeed admirably in the
herbaceous border, with but slight protection in winter.

G.gandavensis.—Noticed under Hybrid Gladiolus.

G. gracilis (Slender).—A hardy form with fewer
points of interest than almost any of the species. It is
a delicate grower, producing from one to three pale lilac
flowers, the lower petals spotted with black.

G. hirsutus (Hairy).—In habit this is a variable
species, growing from one to three feet high, as the soil
and situation suit it. The flowers are large, rose colored,
and all produced on one side of the stem, a habit not at
all pleasing. The fragrance is not unlike that of the
Hawthorn.

G. psittacinus (Parrot). (Syn. G. natalensis) —
Possessing remarkable interest from the fact of its being
the parent, on the one side, of the well known G. gan-
davensis kinds, which sre now so extensively cultivated.
It is a native of the southeast coast of Africa, near Natal.
In common with the other species from that section, it
is more hardy than the Cape species. Its flowers are of
the most intense scarlet and yellow, borne on stems trom

110 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

three to four feet high. The bulbs should be planted
in the open border, where they can have slight protec-
tion, and need only to be taken up when over-crowded.

G. recurvus (Recurved).—An unassuming yet
interesting species. It is a tall, slender-growing plant,
producing from two to five violet-purple flowers of small
size, tinged with yellow. The sheath is white, mottled
with purplish-brown, and is as glossy as the finest porce-
lain, which, in a measure, it resembles. It has a fra-
grance like that of the Violet.

G. purpureo-auratus. — A tall, slender-growing
species of very graceful habit, producing freely yellow
and purplish flowers. Not remarkable for its beauty
so much as because of its parentage of the Lemoine
Hybrids; a deservedly popular class, far superior in all
the requirements of a desirable flower.

G. Saundersii.— One of the best of the species,
and the parent of a new strain, of which we shall have
occasion to speak, in noticing hybrids. It is remarkable
for its ease of culture, and for its brilliant scarlet flow-
ers, with conspicuous pure white centers. It grows
about two feet high, giving a fair sized spike of blooms.

G. suaveolens (Fragrant).—If the Gladiolus were
grown for fragrance alone, this species would be the one
most sought. Its flowers are pale yellow, or straw col-
ored, the upper petals dotted with red. It is only
adapted for greenhouse culture.

G. undulatus (Wavy).—This is a dwarf-growing
species, producing pale yellow flowers with a broad red
stripe through the center of each petal, on a slender
stem. Rarely cultivated.

G. viperatus (Viper).—It derives its common
name from the resemblance of its flowers to a viper’s
head. This species is more singular than beautiful.
The very fragrant flowers are greenish-gray, with dark
stripes. 3

GLADIOLUS. 111

As regards the species the reader will not be bene-
fited by further descriptions. Those noted include all!
that have distinct characters. Many are so little grown
that but little interest can be attached to them. All
there is of value or interest in the Gladiolus is centered
in the hybrid forms, and in their cultivation and propa-
gation. On these points much has already been said;
much more can be said, on methods of reproduction,
not only as regards the preservation and extension of
the many valuable varieties already grown, but also in
the obtaining of new varieties.

Hybrid Gladiolus.—There is no class of plants
that has been so much improved by hybridization as the
Gladiolus, nearly every effort being crowned with suc-
cess, not only when a cross between species has been
effected, but in the cross-fertilization of varieties. As
soon as the first cross had been perfected in the develop-
ment of its flowers, the capabilities of the flower were at
once manifest. The changes in form, size and combina-
tion of colors were marvelously rapid, and so pleasing
that the work was pushed with an enthusiasm that
knew no bounds. The labor and care in cross-fertiliza-
tion was so little in comparison with results obtained,
that varieties almost innumerable were given distinctive
names, many of which have long since been lost sight of,
and their places filled by yet more beautiful forms.
The work is still going on, and there is, seemingly, no
limit to the changes that can be produced.

The first cross between the species resulted in the
well known G. gandavensis, about which there has been
much controversy and great misunderstanding. It has
been regarded by many as a species, or as a distinct race ;
whence or how it sprang no one seemed to know,
although to us its origin seemed as clear as that of any
hybrid form.

Louis Van Houtte, the late and most distinguished
nurseryman and author, whose authority was undisputed

112 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS,

on all other subjects, said that it was produced at Ghent,
and was across between G. psittacinus and G. cardinalis.
However satisfactory this statement may have been to
florists in general, it by no means settled the parentage
of that noble class. The late Hon. and Rey. William
Herbert, an acknowledged authority on bulbs, said Mr.
Van Houtte was in error, because, after repeated
attempts to hybridize these species he, Mr. Herbert,
could not succeed, consequently it was an impossibility,
and that Mr. Van Houtte must have been mistaken as
to the origin of G. gandavensis. All the English author-
ities agreed with Mr. Herbert, and in every treatise on
the Gladiolus his opinion was quoted as correct.

We can easily understand why results can be reached
1a one country, that are impossible in another. The
difference in climatic influences are sufficient to prevent
in one case, what it is easy to accomplish in another.
Certain it is, that in the origin of G. gandavensis, a new
race began, and to it we are indebted for the fine garden
varieties now so extensively cultivated. While crosses
between this hybrid and the species are easily effected,
it has not been necessary to resort to further hybridiza-
tion to accomplish the most wonderful results.

We wish, at this point, to correct the common error
of calling the new varieties that annually appear, ‘‘hy-
brids.” They are not, in any sense, hybrids, and rarely
are. they the results of cross-fertilization. ‘They are
simply choice seedlings, creatures of accident. We have
raised from seed, either especially cross-fertilized, or
carefully szlected from the best named sorts, or from
seed taken at random from our fields, in all, more than
a million corms; among the number some of the best
known varieties are, Isaac Buchanan, Martha Washing-
ton, Bayard Taylor and Charlotte Cushman. Im all
our efforts to produce a desired effect we have failed,
and, instead, we have been favored with some remarkably

GLADIOLUS, 113

good forms that we did not anticipate. From seeds
saved from the best flowers, we have secured excellent
results; while from seeds gatherea at random, we have
had some of the best flowers we haveever grown. From
a long and varied experience in growing the Gladiolus
from seed, we are fully convinced of the folly of attempt-
ing to secure any given form or color by any artificial
means; convinced that form and color are wholly beyond
control; that the offspring are liable to have any of the
colors of the original species, or any combination or vari-
ation of color that the originals could produce. It is
held, and, as a rule, correctly, that by persistent selec-
tion of any given form, a type can be secured; that if
we save seed from the best, or only the purest white, we
can finally secure seed that will give only white flowers ;
or at least we can finally secure a pure white variety.
The.same is said of the yellows or scarlets. Our experi-
ence with Gladiolus has been the reverse. For instance,
Isaac Buchanan is the nearest a clear golden yellow of
any known variety, if we except one found among our
seedlings recently, and the seed from which it was pro-
duced was not taken from a yellow flower. Again,
among the seedlings we annually find types almost
like Brenchleyensis, which rarely, if ever, produces seed,
and which we have never attempted to save. Yet we
get flowers from the first flowering of every bed of seed-
lings almost identical. The same is true in eyery respect
with John Bull, a standard white variety. We are,
therefore, forced to believe that new forms result from
conditions little understood. Certain it is that good
cultivation, in a congenial soil and climate, will be the
best rewarded.

There is no other pleasure in gardening equal to
that which comes from the growing of Gladiolus from
seed. The certainty of getting some remarkably fine
varicties is absolute; that in a bed, no matter how large,

8

114 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

there will be no two alike; that all will be showy, and
that some will be so grotesque as to cause us to tender
our sympathies to the afflicted parents, are not only
among the possibilities, but the probabilities of growing
seedlings. By long growing of a given variety we find
its constitution is hable to become impaired, that many
sorts sicken and die. All varieties will soon run out
unless propagation from offsets is constantly kept up.
Seedlings have usually greater vitality for a number of
years than the sorts grown from offsets, and, unless a
certain variety of merit is to be perpetuated, it is de-
cidedly better to increase our stock from seed. For
mixtures furnished “‘ the trade,” we resort to this method
wholly. Flowering bulbs can be produced. as quickly
from seed as from bulblets, with a certainty of greater
variety, and a chance of some remarkable forms.

Selecting Gladiolus Seed.—While there is’ no
certainty that the seed saved and sown will produce
remarkable results, it is decidedly better to save seed
from the best and most vigorous forms. That is a prin-
ciple in seed-saving, and should be respected with the
Gladiolus. It is a good indication to strive for the best,
whatever may be the result. Bad habits in anything
should not be encouraged ; therefore, in selecting seeds,
take from the plants, with characters such as one would
like to see in the offspring, health, form and well-defined
colors, this is in the true line of improvement, whether
successful or not.

The Seed Bed.—The ground should be worked
well and deep, whatever the character of the soil, and as .
nearly level as convenient to avoid washing out, in case
of heavy rain. Prepare, in all respects, the same as for
any garden vegetable; sow the seeds thickly in rows,
sufficiently far enough apart to work with the hoe;
cover the seeds with fine soil, half an inch deep. Then
cover the whole bed with newly cut grass, fine hay, or

GLADIOLUS. 115

lattice frames that will exclude nearly all the sun. This
will keep the soil moist and prevent baking, two essen-
tial conditions. If the seed is good and the conditions are
favorable, the young plants will appear thickly in from
two to three weeks. When well up remove the cover-
ing, and at all times keep the soil well worked and free
from weeds. If the weather is not too dry their growth
will not be checked until frost, when they should be
lifted and stored in a dry, dark room, free from frost,
but cool. Ours are
stored in a dry cellar,
heated only in case of
necessity. The bet-
ter plan is to put
them in shallow box-
es, so that the corms
will not be more than
two inches in depth; ®
it is not necessary to
put any soil with
them, or covering over
them. If the seed
bed is in good condi-
tion, and the season
favorable for their
growth, the corms
will be from one- GLADIOLUS CORM WITH FULL
fourth to an inch in SEU RSM ee
diameter, the latter rarely. Fully three-fourths of them
will bloom the second year.

Propagation by Offsets.—Increase of desirable
varieties is effected by the small corms or bulblets that
form at the base of the new corm; some varieties increase
very rapidly, others slowly, and many of our best seed-
lings have failed to produce any, consequently the vari-
ety issoon lost. It matters not how desirable the variety

116 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

may be; if it does not produce offsets when it first
flowers, it never will, and, with very rare exceptions, it is
thrown among the mixtures. Why one variety increases ©
so fast, and another not at all, is another of the
mysteries that attends the cultivation of the Gladiolus.
We have taken from a single corm of Brenchleyensis, not
half an inch in diameter when planted, more than two
hundred little corms, while we should consider ourselves
fortunate in getting a dozen from many of the other
varieties. Most of the yellows increase with equal rapid-
ity. This will, in a measure, account for the differences
in price of many old-established varieties. Noticeably
among these is Princess Mary of Cambridge, a truly
splendid flower, which does not increase with us by off-
sets, and its increase in Europe is but slow. La
Candeur increases rapidly with us and but slowly in
France. We find, in this country, that its increase in
some sections is far more rapid than in others.

The little corms, or sets, may be sown as early in
the spring as the soil can be put in suitable condition.
Prepare the ground the same as for peas, sow in the
drills quite thickly, say one hundred to the foot of drill;
cover with half an inch of fine soil, work in the same
manner as recommended for the seed bed, only mulching
is unnecessary. ‘Take up as soon as the leaves begin to
wither, which is usually about the middle of September,
store in the same manner as the young seedlings. ‘The
bulbs from the offsets will be somewhat larger than
those from seed, but no greater proportion of them will
flower the second year. ;

General Cultivation of the Gladiolus.—For early
flowers plant the corms as soon as the ground is in condi-
tion for planting, no matter how early; even though the
surface may freeze slightly after planting, it will not
injure the corms in the least. It is the better plan to
reserve the larger and stronger corms for late flowering,

GLADIOLUS. 117

although they will bloom earlier than the smaller ones
if planted at the same time. Although the Gladiolus is
a desirable flower at all seasons, and can be had in the
open border from June until November, in the latitude
of New York, it appears to the best advantage late in
the season, when the weather is cool, and the atmosphere
moist. During August and the early part of September
the hot sun and drying winds seriously affect the flowers.
The spikes are short, the individual blooms small and
withered, and, moreover, they do not endure nearly so
long. It does not matter so |
much about the heat, if they
can have proportionate
moisture. For small plats,
where the flowers are wanted
in midsummer, plantings
should be made, so that when tl |
the flower stalks appear they \
can have protection from the WW
sun during the hottest part
of the day. This can easily
be done with a light screen, 3
white paper or very thin “iN ii Nite
muslin answering very well. z NK

For succession of bloom
frequent plantings are desira-
ble. This can be accom-
plished in the same bed, by
planting, first, the corms in
rows, say one foot apart, two inches apart in the rows,
and two weeks later planting another row between the
first two, which will allow plenty of room for growth.
Later plantings can be made wherever there is a vacant
spot, always bearing in mind the importance of giving
them an open, airy situation. For late planting small
buibs will not answer, as they are liable to get so dried

HALF GROWN GLADIOLUS
CORM WITH THE OLD
CORM ATTACHED.

118 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

out that their vitality becomes impaired. For this pur-
pose choose the strongest corms, keep them in a dark
cellar, and as cold as possible so long as the temperature
does not fall below the freezing point. The latest plant-
ing can be made the middle of July. It is better, how-
ever, not to defer a general late planting after July 5th.
A light frost, such as would destroy many tender plants,
does not injure the Gladiolus, and, by throwing a sheet,
or other light covering over the plants, they will with-
stand several degrees of frost.

All lovers of these noble flowers should grow suffi-
cient corms, either from seed or from offsets, that a
liberal use can be made of them. In the vegetable gar-
den there are always vacant spots, where a hundred, or
more, bulbs can be planted, after some other crop has
been secured. There is no other flower so useful for
parlor decoration, or for any purpose where cut flowers
are desired. If cut when the first flower opens, the spike
will develop its blooms quite as well in water in the
house, as out of doors; in fact, better than if left in
the open sun.

Field Culture of Gladiolus.—There is no better
place to show the capabilities of any plant than in the
field, where it can have all the attention, in the way of
good cultivation, it needs, with the elements all in its
favor. The Gladiolus is no exception to the rule ; no other
plant needs so frequent visits from the cultivator, none
appreciates them more. But the cultivator must not be
set to work deep. When the teeth go down so as to
mutilate the roots, great injury is done. All that is
required is to keep the surface of the soil light, which
prevents it from drying up. Work deep before planting,
but always shallow afterwards.

The soil is prepared as for potatoes, without the
use of stimulating manures. The rows are furrowed out
thirty inches apart with a small plow, following this with

GLADIOLUS. 119

the fertilizer distributor, after which we scatter the
corms in the drill at the rate of from ten to twenty to the
foot, then cover with the same implement that is used
for corn or potatoes, and the work is complete. When
the leaves begin to break through the surface, we go
over the field with a fine wire-tooth harrow; this effect-
ually gets rid of the first crop of weeds, after which the
cultivator is kept going. In a season prolific of weeds
we have been compelled to go over the ground ten times.
Under any circumstances, we go through the rows with
cultivator after every rain, whether there are weeds to
kill or not. This keeps the soil in the best possible con-
dition, keeps down the weeds, and saves an immense
amount of hand labor. We commence to take up our
corms about the middle of September, using a subsoi!
plow to lift them; then they are taken from the rows,
the tops cut close to the corm, and are then put away in
racks in the cellar, eight feet deep, with plenty of space
for air between, each rack containing about five hundred
flowering corms. This plan of cultivation and storing
of the corms we consider the best that can be adopted,
and the nearer it can be imitated in the garden, the
nearer the grower will reach perfect success.

Soils for Gladiolus.—What soils are best is an
oft-repeated question, to which we must reply that, as
far as this is concerned, the best is the one we have. ‘The
Gladiolus dislikes a heavy clay, but will thrive in almost
any other, its preference being for a light loam, or a
moist, sandy soil. If the ground be heavy, work it
thoroughly and plant shallow, not more than two inches
below the surface. If the soil be light, work in the
same manner, only cover the corms with four inches of
soil. It is best to use what is termed sod-ground when
practicable, or to plant in soil that has been heavily
manured for a previous crop. Fresh manure will prove
injurious. It is also important, in planting, not to

120 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

return to the same soil in less than three years. Disease
will always follow repeated plantings in the same soil.
This is one reason why failures and loss of plants are so
frequent.

Deterioration in Gladiolus.—The question is
often asked, ‘‘ Does the Gladiolus run out, or deteriorate,
and does it ever revert back to the species?” Many
amateurs have asserted that theirs have changed; that
where two years ago they had none other than the best,
now they had none but the poorest. We have ever held
this to be impossible; but that a change in the general
appearance of the bed might come because of the fact
that some varieties increase rapidly by division, while
others rapidly die out because of feeble constitutions.

‘‘But,” says a great admirer of the Gladiolus, ‘‘I
never had in my collection any such colors as are now
the predominating ones in my garden; they are not as
good as the original Gandavensis.” We replied that is
simply an impossibility, unless aided by human hands.
Two years after, he again commenced with an entirely
new collection ; as yet he has not made his report, which
we are fearful will be as unfavorable as the first.

We will give the reasons for our fears. Three years
ago we planted our stock of Adanson, one of the grand-
est of the rosy-lilac kinds, consisting of several thousand
corms, which we knew to be absolutely free from mix-
ture. When they came into flower, to our surprise,
more than one-half of the lot was as far from the type as
it was possible to get, having a color we had never before
seen, something like that of Psittacinus, while the form
was not unlike that of Adanson. In this matter we
could not be deceived, as we had never a flower of the
kind on the place. That season, as well as last year, we
marked every bulb that was true to its description, and
this year the same change is as apparent as before.
What is more singular, this interpolator is nowhere else

GLADIOLUS. 121

to be found in ovr fields. While this change is serious,
it affords a rich field for study. From this incident, we
shall no longer say that the Gladiolus does not sport or
revert towards the species. ‘This is, however, the only
incident of the kind we have ever noticed.

Forcing the Gladiolus.—The Gladiolus, for deco-
rative purposes during the winter season, has been of
late considerably used ; many growers haying been very
successful in bringing it in at the proper time, making
it a profitable branch of their industry. This had the
tendency to induce others, who had not sufficient knowl-
edge of its requirements to make a success of the enter-
prise, to plant on a large scale. Like all other under-
takings, with hope, rather than experience, as a guide,
it has not been as profitable as might be desired. But
few men have been entirely successful ; among the few
is John Thorpe, of Pearl River, N. Y., who knows
the Gladiolus well, and knowing, acts accordingly. The
flowers he produced reached the full measure of their
capabilities. His article from the Garden and forest,
will give all the information required to successfully
force the Gladiolus. We quote the article entire. ‘‘The
Gladiolus, when grown as a forced flower, is appreciated
to a greater extent than when grown out of doors.
Like many other flowers, it is better under the protec-
tion of glass when well cared for, as the flowers are
larger, the colors purer and the spikes longer. ‘To force
Gladiolus successfully, however, requires attention at
just the right time, and its wants should always be antici-
pated and supplied. Here is the routine of my prac-
tice: The bulbs I forced this year were also forced last
year. They were then planted February 8th, and the
first twenty-five flowers were cut May 30th. This year’s -
work began December 27th by potting each bulb in a
four-inch pot, using sandy loam, without manure, and
placing the bulb on the top, pressing it down to hold it

122 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

without any other covering; they were watered and then
placed underneath the benches of a Carnation-house
until the beginning of February. At that time those
plants which had grown to the height of four inches
were brought to the light and again watered. Placing
them close together on a bench near the light, a little
water was given from time to time, retarding the top
growth, and encouraging root-action as much as possible.
By the twentieth of the month the plants were gone
over, and all those of an even size were planted together
in rows about a foot apart, and nine inches apart in the
rows. After planting those of one size, then another
batch a size less was handled. This selecting into sizes
pays for all the trouble it costs in preventing strong
plants from overcrowding the weaker ones. My soil is
rather a heavy sandy loam, and in this the bulbs
were planted, the depth of the entire bed being a little
more than four inches. ‘The bulbs were scarcely covered
even at this time, and this, I find, prevents the damping
off of the plants during dull days, when they have com-
menced to grow rapidly, and are checked either by dark
weather or by a cold spell. By the middle of March
each plant was tied securely to prevent its falling over,
which is generally ruinous to the flower-spike; a hght
mulching of stable-manure was then put on and well
watered. From that time until the flowers were cut a
good soaking of liquid manure was given each week.
The Gladiolus delights in moisture when well along in
growth, but in its earlier stages too much water is death
io it. The first twenty-five flowers were cut for Easter,
or six weeks earlier than last year. The temperature
was never higher than 50° at night, and during the day-
time the house was ventilated whenever it could be kept
above 70°F. Three things I find are necessary to success-
fully force the Gladiolus :

1. The pots must be well filled with roots before
the plants are finally set out.

GLADIOLUS. 123

2. The nearer the bulbs are to the surface the less
liable are the plants to damp off.

3. The bulbs must be well ripened—and if so,
small ones are as good as very large ones.”

We would add to the above a list of varieties best
adapted for forcing, saying selection should be made
from the kinds that come earliest into flower out of
doors, and, at the same time, such as have the most
positive colors and best defined markings. Among these
are the following, which are as many varieties as it is
profitable to grow:

Shakespeare.—The best in the list, both as a
flower and a grower; flowers large, on a long and well-
opened spike, creamy white, with delicate carmine-rose
markings, and a heavy blotch on the lower divisions.

La Candeur.—A grand flower, nearly pure white
when grown under glass, having a long spike of well-
opened flowers of good shape and substance.

Romulus.—One of the earliest flowers; dark red,
with pure white blotch and markings on lower petals.

Brenchleyensis.—One of the best and cheapest;
a long spike of vermillion-scarlet flowers; one of the
easiest to force.

Eugene Scribe.—This is always a pleasing flower,
and greatly improved when grown under glass. The
flowers are large, a delicate rose color, finely variegated
with darker rose; spike very long, with the flowers well-
arranged and well-opened. It is decidedly the best-
variegated form under cultivation.

Isaac Buchanan.— A clear, fine yellow, with but
little marking on the lower division.

John Bull.—A_ good white, when grown under
glass; it is early, and largely employed because of its
cheapness.

Napoleon III.—A medium-sized bright scarlet
flower, lower divisions striped with creamy white.

124 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

The first six mentioned are considered the best, and
all that are really profitable to grow under glass; they
include all the desired colors, and are the best of their
respective classes.

Varieties for General Cultivation.— The selec-
tion of varieties for general cultivation is an individual
matter depending wholly upon the number required and
the taste of the one making the selection. As with all
other plants, tastes differ, one preferring self-colored
flowers, as far as possible; others the more positive and
well-defined colors; again, others preferring the neutral
tints only. Unfortunately, catalogue descriptions are
misleading. Our named varieties in the Gandavensis
section being largely of French origin, a corruption of
the French language has been used in the description,
which, in many cases, does not describe; and in very
many instances the same description is given to a great
number of varieties that are entirely different in their
general characters. For instance, the flowers of Ceres,
Shakespeare, or Princess of Wales, would answer the
description given to either, although there is a vast dif-
ference in the general appearance of the three flowers.

If a fine display of good flowers is desired, it is bet-
ter to select wisely from the named sorts, and then keep
up a stock by growing from the offsets; although it
is more expensive at the start, in the end, if the offsets
are carefully saved and grown, the expense will be
very light compared with that of the more generally
grown bedding plants, that must be renewed annually.
The following twenty-five varieties, from a list of nearly
five hundred, are the best of the Gandavensis section for
general cultivation; they fairly represent the class for
color, and are all vigorous growers.

Abricote.—Apricot-rose color, with a large, well-
formed flower.

Adanson.— Fine rose, with darker rose markings,
and white blotch and lines.

GLADIOLUS. 125

Africani.—A magnificent variety, slaty-brown on
scarlet ground, with a conspicuous white blotch on lower
divisions. A fine spike.

Angele.—-An effective flower; white, slightly
marked with crimson.

Brenchleyensis.—One of the oldest varieties, and
one of the best. Bright vermillion scarlet.

Ceres.—White, lower divisions heavily marked
with rose,

Emma Thursby.—American; white ground, with
deep rose markings and blotches through all the petals.
One of the most showy and effective of the variegated
sorts.

Eugene Scribe.— Delicate rose, variegated with
darker rose; one of the best.

Gen. Phil. Sheridan.—American; a grand flower,
fire red with a distinct white line running through each
petal, and a pure white blotch on the lower petals.

Golden Gem.— New American; a very long spike
of rich golden yellow flowers, slightly tinged with rose
at the base of the petals. The best yellow yet introduced.

Hesperide.— White ground, blotched and flaked
with rosy salmon.

Isaac Buchanan.—American; a clear rich yellow,
slightly tinted with rose on the lower petals.

La Candeur.— Clear white, with a delicate pink
tint on the edge of petals; a fine long and well-shaped
spike.

Lamarck.—Clear cherry, with white lines.

Le Poussin. —Clear light red, with pure white
throat, rather dwarf, flowers medium sized, but very
effective.

Martha Washington.—American; a tall growing
form, of branching habit; flowers clear light yellow,
slightly shaded with carmine, very large, and somewhat
loosely arranged on a long spike. ‘This shows to the

126 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

best advantage when cut and put in a vase, as the sun is
liable to discolor the flowers.

Mme. Monneret.—A clear, delicate rose, short
spike, very fine for a late bloomer.

Meyerbeer.—One of the very best, flowers well
arranged, large, spike long. Color crimson-scarlet flamed
with vermilion.

Napoleon III.—Fine scarlet, heavy, with stripe
on the lower petals.

Nestor.—Light yellow ground, with darker yellow
stripes and markings.

President Lincoln.—American ; blush-white back-
ground, with the edges of the petals suffused with bright
rose, the lower divisions heavily blotched and finely lined
with crimson. Flowers very large, and well arranged in
a long spike. Not a showy variety, but remarkably
pleasing.

Romulus.—Very showy, fine dark red, with pure
white blotch and markings.

Snow White.—American ; the nearest pure white
variety yet offered for sale. Under ordinary circum-
stances nearly the entire flower is a perfect paper-white,
with a slight cream shade on lower half of the lower
petal. The spikes are of fair size, flowers well arranged.

Schiller.—Sulphur, with large carmine blotch and
markings.

Shakespeare.—lIvory white ground, suffused car-
mine-rose, large rosy blotch on lower division; early
and constant. One of the best.

The Lemoine Hybrids.—The birth of the Le-
moine Hybrids marked a new era in Gladiolus culture ;
the hybrids of Gandayensis and their offspring had,
seemingly, reached their summit of perfection. Genius,
like a vine without support, was swaying to and fro for
a subject upon which it could bestow its limitless treas-
ures of grace and beauty, and keep alive the warm inter-

GLADIOLUS. 127%

est so long centered in this noble class of plants, a class
the systematic botanist respects as highly as the florist,
because the wonderful developments in form, and the
marvellous changes, separations and variations in colors,
had not, from nature’s standpoint, in any way trans-
formed a natural form into a monstrosity.

To M. Victor Lemoine, of Nancy, France, we are
indebted for a new race, that bears his name; a race so
distinct and so gorgeously colored as to awaken the most
lively interest in cross-fertilization, with the full assur-
ance that variation has by no means exhausted her
resources. Mr. Wm. Falconer, whose delineation of
floral forms is always accurate, speaks of these so truth-
fully, in the American Florist, that we quote as follows:
*«*Lemoine’s hybrids’ are a race of Gladiolus that was
obtained by M. Victor Lemoine, of France, by crossing
Gladiolus purpureo-auratus with a variety of G. Ganda-
vensis. Some of these hybrids are very beautiful. The
attempt is made to secure brilliance of color, and at the
same time retain the characteristic form of Purpureo-
auratus, for’ there is quite an inclination among seed-
lings to partake strongly of the Gandavensis form. The
flowers are small, sometimes campanulate, and frequently
hooded, but their most positive character is the rich
erimson-purple blotch on the two, or often three, lower
segments. The plants are vigorous and healthy, but
somewhat slender; the flower spikes are moderately
long, but often slender, and the blossoms are more
remotely placed in the spikes than is usual in the Gan-
davensis, or are crowded near the end of the spike.

‘These hybrids have the reputation of being hardy,
but they are not. Simply because we meet occasional
instances where they may have survived the winter, is
no proof at all of their hardiness. In cultivating them
plant them out early in the season and let them stay in
the ground late. In the fall they seem to be ripe long

128 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

before they are really fit to dig. Our object is to get
the little bulbs well ripened, for, unlike the bulblets of
most other species that nestle close to the base of the
large bulb, these shoot off a little way and seem to be
softer than other bulblets, and they are more difficult to
keep over winter.

‘‘Their intense colors, dark purple, crimson and
gold, may appeal strongly in favor of them as cut flowers ;
at the same time, there are so many of lilacs, purples,
dirty yellows and dirty whitish colors among them, that
they cannot find popular favor. And they have another
fault, the buds do not open well in water. I am in-
formed that Lemoine has got something extraordinary
in this line in the way of brilliant colors, and even a
biue one.”

We cannot agree wholly with Mr. Falconer in regard
to colors, although his is but the expression of popular
opinion. ‘To be pleasing, positive, bold colors are not
necessary, essential as they may be for display. Some
of the neutral tints, ‘‘dirty” colors, of this type, are
decidedly interesting when closely examined, as all flow-
ers should be, to be understood and appreciated. The
following list includes the most striking colors and beau-
tiful forms of this class, and fairly represents the type.

Enfant de Nancy.—Flowers medium size; pur-
plish-red, lower petals deep crimson. Color and blotch-
ing entirely unknown heretofore in Gladiolus.

Engesseri.—Very deep pink ; lower petals blotched
bright maroon.

Froebeli.— Flesh-colored, streaked with pink;
carmine blotch, bordered with yellow. ,

John Thorpe.—Splendid plant ; beautiful brilliant
red, blotched with flame, bordered with sulphur, center
of petals lined with yellow.

Lafayette.—Flowers very large; yellowish salmon,
large crimson blotches on the lower petals.

GLADIOLUS. 129

Lemoinei.—Fine, good size flowers, closely set on
the spike, which is about one foot long; upper petals of a
' creamy white color, tinted salmon-red, the lower ones
spotted with deep purplish-crimson, bordered with bright
yellow and salmony red.

Marie Lemoine.—Long spike of fine well-ex-
panded flowers; upper divisions of a pale creamy color,
flushed with salmon-lilac, the lower divisions spotted
purplish-violet, and bordered deep yellow.

Masque de Fer.—F lowers very open, medium
size ; bronze-red, the two lower lateral divisions entirely
velvety black, with a yellow arrow in the center of the
spot; plant dwarf.

Obelisk. — Flowers large, violet; lower petals
blotched brown, spotted with sulphur.

Rochambeau.—F lowers large, salmon, lower petals
dark salmon ; blotched purple.

Stanley.—Red ; lower petals dark yellow, blotched
with blood-red.

Talma.—Pale lilac; lower divisions violet-brown.

Victor Hugo.—Flowers very large; rose colored,
lower petals dark sulphur, blotched with vermillion.

We cannot dismiss this class without saying that
for display, or for decorative purposes, they do not com-
pare favorably with the Gandavensis section.

The Max Leichtlin Hybrids.—The surprise cre-
ated by the introduction of the Lemoine Hybrids had
no sooner died away, than another class of equal mag-
nitude was announced, of a cross between G Saundersii
and a variety of G. Gandavensis, which was effected by
the celebrated bulb grower, Max Leichtlin, of Baden
Baden, Germany. ‘These hybrids are remarkable in
many respects, and in all respects they are superior to
either parent. For size and shape of flowers they have
no equals in the various classes; some of the individual
flowers are immense, fully five inches across; the spikes

9

130 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

are long and the flowers well arranged. Thus far the
variety of colors is not great, and but very few of them
are striking, positive or well defined; no good whites,
scarlets or yellows. Besides, the flowers are wanting in
substance; they bruise easily, and do not seem to de-
velop well in vases. But it must be remembered this is
a new race and has not reached its capabilities; it has
only outlined them. Further efforts will undoubt-
edly give to them enormous size and remarkable shape,
color and substance. Seedlings have already been pro-
duced from them, showing considerable improvement.
With the colors of Meyerbeer, Golden Gem, Snow White
and General Phil. Sheridan transmitted into their forms,
we shall have a race that will make further improvement
seem impossible. Mr. Leichtlin sold his entire product
to a French house, which, in turn, sold to Messrs. Hal-
lock & Son, of Long Island, N. Y.

GLORIOSA.
Climbing Lily.

This bulb has but a slight claim to the name of lily,
other than its alliance, and the term climbing is some-
what strained. ‘The Gloriosa is a very handsome genus
of greenhouse plants, of a sub-climbing character, bear-
ing the same relation to climbing plants as does the Ivy-
leaved Geranium, having only a slight tendency to climb.
They require the same treatment as the Gesnera, and
should have a light trellis for support. ‘Their flowers
bear as close a resemblance to Liliwm philadelphicum, as
to almost any other form. ‘They are curiously shaped,
of a bright orange, blue or yellow color, and flower in
the greenhouse the entire summer. They are mostly
natives of South Africa, and are increased by offsets.
The species commonly met are:

G. superba.—A slender growing plant, but tall
and showy. Under favorable circumstances it will attain

GLOXINIA. 131

a height of from six to eight feet. The first appearance
of the flowers is disappointing, because of the predomi-
nance of green. But the green, in a great measure, is
soon changed to bright orange.

G. simplex.—A species from Portugal, has flowers
of a delicate blue color, and is of delicate habit, rarely
reaching a height of two feet.

G. virescens.—This flower is nearly all green when
first opened, but changes to yellow when older. Itisa
native of Mozambique.

G. nepalensis.—A native of Nepal; is the hardi-
est of the species, although not as showy as G. superba.
It grows about two feet high; flowers bright yellow.

GLOXINTA.

Nearly all the species that make up this splendid
genus of flowering plants are natives of South America,
and are usually found in deep ravines, on rather high
mountain elevations, and always in damp, much shaded
situations. When we take into account their distinct-
ness, their continuous flowering habit, the exquisite
colors they possess, their forms of matchless beauty, and
the ease with which they may be grown, it will at once
be admitted that few plants so well deserve the attention
they require as the Gloxinias. They flower continuously
through the spring and summer, and, when grown in
pots, are very valuable for decorative purposes, while the
flowers are exceedingly useful for small vases and for all
purposes where cut flowers are used.

With the Gloxinia, as with many other flowers,
selection and hybridization, together with a number of
accidental sports, have removed the original species from
cultivation. The original forms, with their drooping
flowers, have been superseded by flowers with the corolla
almost regular, and perfectly erect ; this latter peculiar-
ity is an important improvement, as the border and

132 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

throat of the corolla are fully presented to the eye, show-
ing, at a glance, the full beauty of the flower. Cultiva-
tion has wrought wonderful changes in the general char-
acter of this flower; forms have been greatly improved,
colors intensified, substance enhanced, and the number
of flowers on a given plant greatly increased.

The most interesting class of Gloxinias are the
spotted varieties, the origin of which is quite as interest-

HYBRID GLOXINTAS.

ing as the flowers themselves. Their origin is described
in the Garden as follows: ‘It has frequently occurred
that a certain family, or species, which may not have
shown, during a series of years, any great tendency to
sport, all at once gives us something novel and beautiful.
M. Vallerand, with whom the spotted varieties origi-
nated, assiduously crossed the best known varieties, but,

GLOXINIA. 133

although he annually raised a large number of seedlings,
he could not succeed in obtaining anything better than
those already in cultivation. Being discouraged at find-
ing his best efforts so poorly rewarded, he had deter-
mined to relinquish the attempt. His seedlings that
season (1877) had nearly all bloomed, with the same
result. There remained but a few weak plants to flower.
Curiously enough, on the weakened and latest seedling
appeared a single flower, so distinct and beautifully
marked that M. Vallerand declared that he was quite
taken by surprise. It may be easily imagined how that
plant was cherished, the flower carefully fertilized, and
precaution taken to destroy every other bloom near it.
The seed ripened, and from this sprang many other
charming forms.”

Another interesting form has appeared in Gloxinia
Gesnerioides, cross sent out by Messrs. Carter, of Lon-
don, between the Gloxinia and the Gesnera. It is but
little known in this country, but is described as follows:
‘This desirable novelty is the result of hybridizing the
Gloxinia with the Gesnera, and the peculiar properties
of both species are fully united, for while carrying the
graceful habit and beautifully colored foliage of the
Gesnera, it produces the magnificent flowers so identified
with the Gloxinia.”

We make no attempt at a description of the natural
species, as they are no longer in cultivation; neither the
florists’ varieties, as these are innumerable. The great
pleasure in growing the Gloxinia comes from seedlings,
which are so readily and easily produced, and which fur-
nish such an endless variety of form and color, all desir-
able, that named varieties are not essential to the most
beautiful collection.

The cultivation of the Gloxinia is very simple, and
nowhere have we seen it so well managed as by William
Falconer, Esq., of Glen Cove, Long Island. We give his

134 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

method, graphically portrayed in his own language, as
follows: ‘‘In March (1884) I bought a dollar packet
of Gloxinia seeds, the finest strain in the market, and
containing no more seeds than an ordinary fifty cent
packet. I sowed them in a shallow seed-pan that was
well drained and filled with light, sandy, fine soil, and
kept in a warm greenhouse on a shelf near the glass. In
two weeks’ time a good many of the seedlings were up,
and in about three weeks the whole crop appeared; but
it was about five weeks from sowing time before I ven-
tured to prick them off. Then I pricked them off singly
into other shallow seed pans prepared as before, and
afterwards, as soon as their leaves began to crowd each
other, transplanted them into boxes, there to remain
until the end of May.

** By this time I had much frame room, and I made
up a hotbed, waited until the heat was on the decline,
then prepared it by filling in four or five inches deep
with light, mellow soil, as if I were going to raise a lot of
Stocks or Asters, and planted out my Gloxinias in it,
about mine inches apart each way. I have kept them
covered with sashes shaded with whitewash. They are
kept close at night, and in the daytime, according to
the warmness and brightness of the day, the sashes are
tilted up from two to six inches, but at no time do I
allow sunshine to get on the plants. Any dampening
leaf or decaying matter is removed as soon as observed,
and J never water or syringe the plants overhead ; indeed,
any watering required is done most carefully by intro-
ducing the waterpot spout between the plants and under ~
the leaves.

‘‘During their whole life the plants have been kept
close to the glass, shaded from sunshine, and dry over-
head. These plants are to-day—the middle of July~
exceedingly strong and luxuriant, their leaves crowded
and overlapping each other, and they are blooming beau-

GOLDEN LILY—GRIFFINIA. 135

tifully, and I expect to have them in flower till Septem-
ber. Then I shall let them dry up gradually till they
lose their leaves, when I shall lift the roots, store them
in earth in a shallow box, and keep them dry over win-
ter. Next spring they will be available for pot culture
for early flowers, or for again planting in frames. I pre-
fer one and two-year-old plants to those that are older,
hence would raise a fresh lot from seed every year.”

The tubers should be started into growth about the
first of March, or earlier, if they have sprouted. Give
them three-inch pots, filled with light, sandy soil, made
rich with thoroughly rotted manure. Place them in the
warm greenhouse, shaded from the sun, but as near the
light as possible. Shift into larger pots, as required.
The atmosphere should always be warm and moist, and
the plants should never suffer for want of water, but the
leaves should never be wet on their upper surface. After
flowering, water should generally be withheld until the
plants are dry, then set away in some warm, dry place,
until it'is time to start into growth again. Any desired
variety may be propagated by division of the tubers, or
from leaf cuttings, in the same manner as the Rex vari-
eties of the Begonia. The Gloxinia was named in honor
of P. B. Gloxin, a botanist of Colmar.

GOLDEN LILY.
See Lycoris.
GRAPE HYACINTH.
See Muscari.
GREEN DRAGON.
See Ariseema, Page 31,
| - GRIFFINTIA,

A small genus of handsome greenhouse bulbs from
South America, belonging to the natural order, Amaryl.

136 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

lidacew, and producing large umbels of handsome bright
purple flowers. They grow readily if treated the same
as Hippeastrum (See Page 13). There are but three
species generally cultivated.

G. hyacinthina.—Flowers blue and white.

G. parviflora.—Flowers pale purple.

G. intermedia.—Bright blue flowers.

GROUND NUT.

See Apios, Page 31.
GUERNSEY LILY.
See Sarniensis, Page 21.
GUINEA-HEN FLOWER.

See Fritillaria, Page 92.

HABRANTHUS.
This genus is now classed with Hippeastrum (Page

13), and is closely allied to Zephyranthes (Page 25).
HAMANTHUS. .
Blood Flower.

A genus of South American bulbs, more curious
than beautiful; in fact, but one species, H. coccineus,
is really worth cultivating, and this is remarkably showy.
Its flowers, when fully expanded, form a perfect globe ;
each individual flower is small, but the mass of brilliant
scarlet is a very showy object. The leaves of most of
the species are very broad, long and thick, requiring con-
siderable room. They need high heat and plenty of water
when in active growth, which is only about four months
of the year; the remainder of the time they demand
rest. The flowers precede the leaves, in September.

HAREBELL.
See Scilla nutans.

HAYLOCKIA—HERBERTIA. 137

HAYLOCKIA.

A small bulb from Buenos Ayres, allied to Cooperia
and Zephyranthes. Flowers beautiful straw-color, pro-
duced in September. The leaves remain green the entire
winter, making it necessary to have greenhouse room,
although it is not at all particular as to treatment. The
foliage dies in spring. Propagation by seeds or offsets.

HERBERTIA.,

A small genus of rare bulbs found near the Straits
of Magellan, in South America. It requires pot culture.
The flowers are somewhat like the Iris, of various colors,
blue, white and pink. The bulbs are not in cultivation
for the trade.

HESPERANTHA.
Evening Flower.

A small genus of Cape of Good Hope bulbs allied to
the Ixia, and thriving under the same general treatment.
The flowers are small, but rather pretty, arranged in
loose spikes; they expand during the evening, and are
sweet scented, but remain closed during the day. The
position they occupy does not warrant a description of
the species.

HESPEROSCORDON.
A synonym of Brodizwa, Page 45,

HEXAGLOTTIS.

This genus closely resembles Homeria, and belongs
to a class that does not warrant cultivation. ‘The flow-
ers are yellow, and rather pretty. The bulbs of one of
the species, H. flexwosa, are roasted and eaten, forming
a large portion of the food of the Hottentots.

HIPPEASTRUM.
See Page 13.

138 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

HOLLAND BULBS.
See Fritillaria, Hyacinth, Narcissus and Tulip.

HOMERIA.

This is another of the many genera of Cape bulbs,
belonging to Iridacee, and formerly included in the
genus Morea. ‘They are all ornamental, aud remarka-
ble for the abundance and long continuance of their
flowers, lasting the entire summer. ‘They require the
protection of a frame during winter, but no other care
is necessary to produce their flowers in the greatest
abundance, or for the increase of their bulbs, which is
by offsets.

H. lineata.—The most common of the species;
flowers coppery red, with a metallic luster, produced in
abundance from June to September.

H. elegans (spicata).—A beautiful species with
orange-yellow flowers.

The other species do not materially differ from those
described. They all have scarlet or yellow flowers, and
are worthy of cultivation.

HONEY GARLIC.
See Nectaroscordum.

HYACINTH.

Prominent in the list of bulbs is the Hyacinth, and
the one, moreover, which is most grown for early spring
flowers in the garden, and for pot culture in the window
garden. Although it is one of the best known bulbs,
there are only three or four distinct species in the genus,
and all our garden varieties have come from Hya-
cinthus orientalis, a species that contains several varie-
ties, the seeds from which, by cross-fertilization, which
is readily affected, have produced varieties almost innu-
merable. The early history of the garden Hyacinth is

HYACINTH, 139

but little known; Gerard, in his ‘*Herbal,” 1596,
speaks of it as of a well-known flower, without saying
when it was introduced, and he describes and figures
several double varieties of the original species, which he
says, simply, was brought from the Hast. The varieties

HOUSE BLOOMING HYACINTHS.

then known were blue, white or pink, which were the
only colors known in the Hyacinth until about the com-
mencement of the present century, when a few pale yel-
low, or, rather, lemon-colored kinds were raised from
seed. From these, by careful selection and cross-fertili-
zation, great improvement in color, as well as form, has
been made.

140 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

Field Culture of Hyacinth Bulbs.—Much has
been said and written in regard to the cultivation of the
Hyacinth. We shall give all the information known in
regard to culture, as is practiced in Holland, informa-
tion we have received from the best growers, and on
their own grounds. It is well to remark here that the
conditions of soil, in which the Hyacinth finds so con-
genial a home in Holland, can rarely be found elsewhere.
And further, that the Hyacinth will perfect its bloom,
from bulbs grown in Holland, in any soil, or in water,
even, providing all other conditions are favorable. Deep
in the hidden scales of the bulb commenced last year
those wonderful preparations, which will surely develop
the flower this year, under almost any circumstances.
The important part of cultivation consists in bringing
the bulb up to the proper See for flowering when
we receive it.

The Hyacinth likes a very sandy, well-prepared, fine
and light soil, entirely free from stone or gravel, conse-
quently looking as though it had been passed through a
fine sieve. All kinds of loam or stiff soil, which bind so
closely together that, when dry, the wind cannot sepa-
rate their particles, as it does those of sand, must be
avoided. In Holland a soil is considered particularly
good which is light gray, and which resembles fine, very
sandy and light garden mold. This soil, which is very
light of itself, is made still lighter by the addition of the
thin sand of the Dutch downs, which is of a pale yellow
color, and very fine. ‘The only manure used is from the
cow-stable, which must be quite pure, and not mixed
with straw or any other substance.

In preparing the Hyacinth beds, particular attention
is paid to the following rules: 1. That no stimulating
fertilizer must be mixed with the soil for a period of
four years previous to planting. 2. That Hyacinths
must not be grown in the same soil oftener than once in

HYACINTH. 141

four years. The latter rule must be respected ; because,
if planted a year earlier, the decayed remains of the old
bulbs would bring disease to the newly planted bulbs.
The usual custom in Holland is to plant a bed the first
year with Hyacinths, the second with Tulips, the third
with Polyanthus Narcissus, and it is considered desira-
ble to plant something similar the fourth year. The
bed is generally prepared for Hyacinths the fourth sea-
son. Between December and February the ground is
dug two or three feet deep. In March the soil is covered
to the depth of three inches with cow manure, then
spaded in a foot deep. During the summer, vegetables,
or annuals, which do not exhaust the soil, are grown on
the bed. The following autumn the soil is dug two
feet deep, taking care to let the manure, which was
put on in the spring, remains a foot deep in the earth.

In the beginning of October, planting commences in
the following manner: The whole piece of ground
allotted for Hyacinths is divided into beds about five feet
in width. ‘he soil is taken from the surface of the first
bed to the depth of from three to five inches, according
to the size of the bulbs to be planted, and conveyed to
the further side of the last bed in the piece of ground to
be planted. The first bed then is carefully raked over
and divided into rows a foot apart, and the bulbs placed
on these rows, without pressing down, about six inches
apart. The second bed is dug out in like manner, and
the earth which is taken from it is used for covering the
pulbs in the first bed; and in this manner they proceed
to the last bed, which is covered with the earth of the
first bed. Very large, strong growing bulbs are planted
six inches deep, and further apart; while small bulbs,
such as are incapable of producing flowers, are scattered
closely in the rows, and not covered so deeply. The
weather should be dry during the time of planting, as
continued wet weather is liable to cause rot.

142 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

After planting, the beds are kept clear of weeds,
nicely raked and made ready for covering on the approach
of frost, which usually occurs about the first of Decem-
ber. The covering is made of reeds, which grow in
immense quantities on the banks of the canals and
ditches everywhere found in Holland. The first cover-
ing is of the partially decayed reeds used the previous
season ; upon these the new reeds are placed, to the
depth of several inches, and kept down by means of pegs.
When the covering is completed the beds are as neat
and orderly as the ones in which their owners sleep.
About the first of March, when frost is no longer appre-
hended, the covering of the beds is taken off, and the
surface carefully cleaned and raked, after which they
are watered with a mixture of cow dung and water,
which forms a light crust, and prevents the wind from
disturbing the surface of the beds. This is a necessary
work, as, owing to the lightness of the soil, it would
drift, when dry, about as freely as snow. The only cul-
tivation given is to keep the beds clean from weeds until
the time of flowering, in April. At this time the plants
are carefully examined, and if, by accident, there should
be a wrong variety in the bed, it is markea for removal.
There are no beds of mixed bulbs, of any class whatever,
grown in Holland, excepting in rare instances, where
specialists are growing from seed to procure new varie-
ties. Every variety has its name, and is grown and
stored in such a systematic manner that there is but
little chance for a bulb to get out of place. Ji all cases,
‘‘mixtures,” as quoted in dealers’ catalogues, are made
up of equal proportions of colors, from bulbs of second
size, and of inferior quality. Of this more will be writ-
ten in treating of selection.

After the bulbs have flowered the flower-stalks are
cut off, which throws the whole strength of the plant
into the bulb; the flower spikes are usually thrown into

HYACINTH. 143

the ditches, because, should they be left on the land,
they would cause the bulbs to rot. They cannot be
used, even as a manure for trees, or any other plants,
because, if they are not poisonous, they at Jeast always
contain a corrosive substance, and to such a degree that
in the month of October, if they are worked among for
a few hours, they will have a worse effect on the laborer
than the Poison Ivy; the skin becomes red and inflamed,
and the pain is so intense that it prevents sleep.

The manner of harvesting the bulbs in Holland is
as follows: First, all the leaves are cut just under the
surface of the beds, with a sharp shuffle-hoe, immediately
after which the bulbs are taken up with the hands, the
laborer sitting on the ground all the time. When taken
up they are put in shallow trenches, close together, and
covered with earth, where they remain from one to three
weeks to ripen, after which they are brought into the
store rooms and placed thinly to dry. They are then
cleaned, the tops cut closely to the bulb, and the bulbs
assorted according to quality and size.

Propagation of the Hyacinth.—There are two
artificial methods of propagating the Hyacinth in Hol-
land. ‘The first is by means of cross-cuts made through
the base of the bulbs, reaching half way up the bulb.
These cuts are made as soon as the bulbs are taken from
their beds, before they are put in the trenches for curing,
the strongest and most healthy bulbs being chosen, as
they produce the largest number of offsets. After the
bulbs are cut they are laid in the trenches to ripen, the
same as the other bulbs. These cuts soon open wide,
and send out young bulbs thickly along the scales before
autumn. They are planted in this state in beds by
themselves, and the next year, after having been dried
on the shelves, they are separated and trimmed. ‘i'o
first year after cutting, the bulbs make very little, if any,
foliage, as the old bulb has no longer any influence, and

144 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

the young bulbs exhaust their energies in perfecting their
own increase. After the first season’s growth in the
bed, they are taken up and handled in precisely the same
manner as the old bulbs. It requires from three to five
years’ growth to make bulbs of merchantable size, which
means, for the best bulbs, as large as they can be grown,
without natural division, after which they produce but
inferior spikes of bloom.

The other method of propagation is by hollowing
out the base of the bulb, leaving a narrow rim, and
scooping out the center about one-fourth of its depth.
This work is performed in August, in clear, dry weather,
as in wet weather the bulbs will be very liable to rot.
It is very desirable, as in propagating by cross-cuts, that
the bulbs chosen for this purpose should be very strong
and healthy. The hollowed-out part of the bulb ought
not to be touched after the cutting, either by the finger
or anything else, and the most common and best way is
to: strew a dry board with fine, dry sand, lay the bulbs
upon it, and to turn the hollowed-out part to the sun.
After lying some time, the heart, which extends as far
as the point of the bulb, becomes detached by the heat
of the sun, and is carefully removed with a smooth stick,
being careful not to bruise the scales of the bulb. The.
pulbs are then kept in a dry place exposed to the sun,
until it is time to plant out in autumn. In the mean-
time small bulbs, in great quantities, will be formed all
along the lines of the scales. When this kind of propa-
gating proves successful, it is far more rapid than by
cross-cuts, but the young bulbs are not as large, and
they will require an additional growth of one or two
years to make salable bulbs.

Garden Culture of Hy acinths,< “Avani can
be grown in the open air successfully, and with as little
difficulty as any flowering bulbs. The only real enemy
they have is frost. While classed with hardy bulbs,

HYACINTH. 145

they are not hardy, and their cultivation would be more
general if this fact were so stated in the catalogues, upon .
which the amateur, in a great measure, depends for his
information. The Hyacinth may live, but it will not
thrive in the open border unless thoroughly protected.
Many growers haye become discouraged, from losses due
to freezing, which they have, unwisely, attributed to
some other cause; not knowing what the trouble was,
they had no remedy ; consequently they have abandoned,
in a great measure, its cultivation as a border plant. A
greater mistake is not common. They need never fail,
and their absence from the garden is a loss that cannot
be supplied by any other flower.

The catalogues are equally responsible for another
mistake of equal magnitude, namely: that a special soil
is necessary for the perfect development of the flower.
While the Hyacinth cannot be propagated profitably in
other than a sandy soil, it can be grown, or flowered, in
any soil. It is not the quality, but the condition of -
the soil, that is essential. And the only conditions nec-
essary are to plant the bulbs sufficiently early in a
deep and rich soil to allow them a chance to make
a good root growth; then to protect thoroughly against
frost. Whether the soil is clayey, loamy or sandy,
the result will be the same. A minor consideration
is to afford the bed good drainage, if in a situation
where water has a tendency to stand at any time. If
the soil is heavy the bulbs should not be covered more
than from two to three inches; if light, from four to
six inches. Be governed, as to depth of planting, by
the lightness or heaviness of soil, and remember, the
soil one has is the best one has; there is no choice, and
need be none. As frost is the only obstacle to success,
how can this be guarded against? Simply enough, asa
rule, for usually where there is a garden there are trees,
the newly fallen leaves of which are the best and the

10

146 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

most natural protection. Cover the bed to the depth of
six inches, as well as a margin of two feet on either side
of the bed, with leaves, which can be kept in place by
pieces of board or branches of trees, and the work is
complete. This covering should be gradually removed
upon the approach of warm weather, as the plants will
be above ground before the frost is out of unprotected
places. The climate on the coast, from Canada to Vir-
ginia, is the worst possible for the Hyacinth, because of
the alternate freezing and thawing so common in early
spring. To guard against this, a suitable mat should be
in readiness to throw over the bed after the winter cov-
ering has been removed. No further caltural instruc-
tions are necessary for the Hyacinth in the open border,
observing what we have said in regard to manures, as
used in Holland. It is by no means essential to have
the ground as rich to flower the bulb as it was to produce
it, as the flower is already formed, and whether the soil
be rich or poor, the same number of flowers will appear
on the stem; but, of course, under favorable conditions,
they will be larger and stronger than under the reverse.

Selection of Varieties of Hyacinths.—Where
required for use in large quantities, Hyacinths of good
quality and striking colors may be had at very low rates.
This is an important consideration, as many amateurs
are deterred from making as good a display as they
might wish, because of the expense, which is thought
disproportionate to the effect produced. For many
years we have grown the Hyacinth with varied degrees of
success. We have planted bulbs that were sold at retail
at two dollars each; beside them we have had those grow-
ing that only cost one dollar per dozen, and we must say
that none but the professional bulb-grower would notice
the difference. The contrast in prices is still greater
now, as good bulbs can be bought at four dollars per
hundred, retail.

HYACINTH, — 147

Many persons make the growing of Hyacinths a
hobby. ‘This is very commendable, for it stimulates the
production of new varieties, with a view toward improve-
ment; and whenever a new variety is brought out, it is
eagerly sought, at a high price, to the great encouragement
of the producer, and to the convenience of the general
consumer, for, as soon as the novelty is worn off, the price
is reduced to that of the standard sorts. It is a mistake,
in the selection of Hyacinths for the open border, to
choose the largest bulbs, which are usually the highest
priced ; it is much better to get what is known as second-
sized bulbs, not simply because they are cheaper, but
because they are better, as they will not break up into
small bulbs, as the larger ones invariably do after the
first year, each part producing a weak spike with but
few bells, but the small bells will grow on for two or
three years, giving a fine spike each year. We do not
advise the use of mixed bulbs, but, rather, what are usu-
ally termed ‘*‘ Bedding Hyacinths,” which simply means
second or third sized bulbs of the standard varieties, such
as have been in cultivation for the last hundred years,
and within that period but little real improvement has
been made in Hyacinths, either as regards size, form or
color, excepting so far as double forms may be consid-
ered an improvement, notwithstanding there are annually
brought out a score or more of ‘‘novelties.” These
bulbs differ only from the first size, in not having been
grown so long, by one or two years, which allows of their
being sold materially cheaper.

Growing Hyacinths in Pots.—For pot culture
there is no plant that succeeds better, or gives more gen-
eral satisfaction, than the Hyacinth; certainly there is
none other more easily managed. For this purpose
select solid, heavy bulbs, without regard to size ; second-
sized bulbs will generally prove quite as satisfactory as
the larger ones For a single bulb a five-inch pot is

148 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

sufficiently large. Fill it with any good potting mold,
a light, rich one being preferable. Remove a little soil
from the central surface, and into this opening lightly
press the bulb, so as not to have the soil hard beneath it,
but pack the earth firmly around it, leaving about one-
third of the bulb visible. If the bulb is pressed too
firmly in the soil, when the roots begin to grow, instead
of penetrating, they will lift the bulb out of its proper
position. After potting set the pots in any sheltered
position, where they will not get too much water, and
cover with soil, or, what is better, coal ashes, to the
depth of six or eight inches; over this throw leaves or
coarse litter, to prevent freezing, so that they may be
brought into the house as required. It is a common
practice to put them in acellar or shed. This is nota
good plan, however, as the soil is apt to get too dry after
the roots start, from the ill effects of which the plants
never fully recover. For a succession of bloom, bring
in as many as desired about December first, and every
two weeks thereafter until February first. If the bulbs
have been kept from the frost, as they should have been,
they will have made considerable top growth, in which
case bring them gradually to the light until they get
their natural color, after which they will stand all the
light and heat the living room will afford. It will aug-
ment the beauty of the flowers and prolong their period
of usefulness to grow them in a low temperature,
although they thrive in any other, provided watering is
proportionate. The best time for potting is as soon as
possible after the bulbs arrive from Holland, when they
have had a sufficient period of rest, and are ready for
the first period of root growth. The quicker the pots
are filled with roots, the sooner the bulbs will come into
flower after they are brought into the house. Besides,
without a healthy root-growth, there will never be a
healthy flower spike; the flowers opening close down to

HYACINTH, 149

the bulb, instead of being raised on a long generous
spike, being the result of insufficient root action.

Blooming Hyacinths in Glasses.—For flower-
ing in glasses, the largest and heaviest bulbs alone should
be chosen, as, in a great measure, they derive their nour-
ishment from their own substance, which is quite sufti-
cient to develop their flowers, if all other conditions are
favorable. For this purpose, as in growing the bulbs
in pots, a healthy root growth is of the first importance.
To secure this it isan excellent plan, about November Ist,
to place the bulbs in a box of wet sand, say two inches
in depth. The bulbs should not be pressed into the
sand more than half an inch. Put the box where it is
cool and dark, and the roots will start in a few days;
when they are half an inch in length, the bulbs may be
put in the glasses where they are to grow. Place the
glasses, after they are filled with water enough to just
touch the bulb, in a dark closet until the roots touch
the bottoms of the glasses, then bring to the light, but
never where the glasses will receive the full rays of the
sun, the effect of which is to heat the water to a fatal
degree. A rather low temperature and free access of
pure air are among the essential conditions of growth.
The temperature should be free from fluctuations. The
mantlepiece is an unfit place, while the window-sash,
where the glasses get the full force of the sun by day,
and the cold drafts of air at night, is the worst place
possible, and the one where they are the most frequently
met. The nearer they can be kept in a temperature of
say 50° F., the better will be the results. For flowering
in glasses the single varieties are always to be preferred,
as they come into flower more quickly and seem to thrive
better under unnatura! conditions.

Varieties. — The varieties of the Hyacinth are
extremely numerous, but it is a pleasure to say that the
Dutch descriptions are remarkably accurate, and that

150 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

variety synonyms are exceedingly rare. In making a
choice for the garden, individual taste in color alone is
to be considered; there is not so much difference in

DOUBLE HYACINTH.

form or habit in most of the varieties as to make it an
important point in selection. The single varieties are
greatly to be preferred to the double; they have longer

HYACINTH. 151

and better furnished spikes, and, as a rule, their colors
are better defined. Two exceptions to this rule may be
made in favor of La Tour D’Auvergne, a double white,
and Regina Victoria, a double red. The former is our
first choice, whether in the garden or for pot culture;
the latter is a good second.

For general cultivation and for all purposes, the fol-
lowing twenty-five sorts we consider the most desirable,
being very distinct in their respective colors. We do not
admire neutral tints in the Hyacinth, as they give the
flower a dirty appearance. There are but few truly good
yellows, either single or double; some of the colors are
good, but the spikes are short and the bells scattered.
All in the following list possess the most positive and
striking colors:

SINGLE RED AND PINK HYACINTHS.

Lord Macaulay.—Clear rose with carmine stripes,
a good show variety.

Madame Hodgson.—Pale pink, a large and well-
formed spike and a sure bloomer.

Robert Steiger.—A fine spike, bright red; one of
the best for bedding, or decorative purposes.

Von Schiller.—Clear salmon pink, with crimson
stripes ; a fine pot plant for decorative purposes.

SINGLE WHITE.

Alba Superbissima.—A pure white, large and
compact spike; a fine bedding variety.

La Grandesse.—Pure white, a long and hand-
some spike; one of the best for exhibition purposes.

Mont Blanc.—Pure white, a long and well-formed
spike suitable for all methods of culture.

SINGLE BLUE.

Charles Dickens.—Light clear blue shaded with
lilac; a long, well-formed spike and one of the best in
cultivation.

152 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PILANTS.

Grand Lilas.—Porcelain blue; a very pleasing
variety. |

Mimosa.—Dark purple; very distinct, contrasting
finely with the red and white sorts; a valuable bedder.

SINGLE LILAC AND MAUVE.

Haydn.—Lilac-mauve, very distinct; good spike
and form.
La Unique.—Dark violet ; a very fine spike.

SINGLE YELLOW.

Bird of Paradise.—Clear yellow, and long spike ;
one of the best of the yellows.

Ida.—Beautiful primrose yellow, large bells on a
compact spike; an excellent variety.

La Citronniére.—Pale yellow; a splendid flower.

DOUBLE RED AND ROSE.

Bouquet Tendre (Waterloo).—Deep red on a good
spike, and early; an old and pleasing variety.

Lord Wellington.—Pale rose, large bells and hand-
some spike; a showy and handsome variety.

Regina Victoria.—Fine clear dark-rosy pink; a
long spike and bells somewhat loosely arranged, but very
pleasing.

DOUBLE WHITE.

Anna Maria.—Light blush with purple center; a
good spike and distinct.

La Tour D’Auvergne.—A clear white with large
bells well arranged on a long spike; one of the best.

Prince of Waterloo.—Pure white, long and hand-
some spike of well-arranged bells.

DOUBLE BLUE.

Blocksberg.—Porcelain with a white stripe, large
bells and a good spike; a standard sort.

Laurens Koster.—Fine dark blue, close handsome
spike; one of the very best double sorts.

HYACINTH. 153

DOUBLE YELLOW.

Jaune Supreme.—Pure citron yellow, very double;
a fair spike.

Ophir D’Or.—Deep yellow; an extra fine flower.

Hyacinths for Pots.—The foregoing selection can-
not be surpassed for pot culture excepting, perhaps, that
some of the higher priced sorts may possibly give a little
larger spike, but for general cultivation those named will
give entire satisfaction.

Hyacinths for Glasses.—The following twelve
sorts we believe to be the best for glasses, but these can-
not be depended upon for good spikes because of the un-
natural condition in Whinh they are grown and the lia-
bility there is of their suffering from ey Madame
Hodgson and Robert Steiger, single red; Alba Superbis-
sima, single white; Grand Van Vangueer and Mont
Blane, single white ; Charles Dickens, single blue; Grand
Lilas, single porcelain-blue; Mimosa, single dark blue ;
Bird of Paradise, single yellow; La Tour D’ Auvergne,
double white; Bouquet Tendre, double red; Laurens
Koster, double blue. After Hyacinths have been grown,
either in pots or glasses, the bulbs are of no further use,
and should be thrown away.

Roman Hyacinth.—This is a distinct species,
Hyacinthus romanus, a native of Greece, largely culti-
vated in the south of France, and far more extensively
grown in this country for cut flowers than the well-known
Dutch Hyacinth. It is readily forced, and the bulb,
although much smaller than that of the ordinary Hya-
cinth, produces several flower stalks. Of this species
there is a blue and a pink variety, popularly known as
Parisian Hyacinths. These are but little used, because of
their colors, white being the only color in that form that
the florists Boa use to advantage, and for house or con-
servatory decoration their flowers do not contrast as
fsrorstlyywash the foliage as do those of the white.

154 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS,

The Roman Hyacinth is specially adapted for forcing,
and can be had from Christmas until spring, with very
little effort. The common method of growing it for cut

ROMAN HYACINTH.

flowers is to put the bulbs, as soon as received from
France, in flats or shallow boxes, say three inches apart,
using the soil that is most convenient. Let the top of

HYACINTH. 155

the bulb be even with the surface of the soil; water
thoroughly, then place the flats in a cold frame, or shed,
away from frost. They should remain in this condition
at least four weeks before they are brought in for forcing.
Heat should be applied gradually, beginning at 50° and
running up to 65° or 70° F. To get flowers for Christ-
mas, a little higher temperature will be required than is
best to employ for a general crop. For a succession,
bring in a new batch every two weeks.

The Roman Hyacinth can be most successfully grown
in the window-garden, and is more desirable than the
large-flowered varieties, because of its coming into bloom
much earlicr. For this purpose a four-inch pot can be
used to advantage. Use any soil from the garden; put
three bulbs in each pot, and treat in all other respects as
the Dutch Hyacinth, only that the Roman can be started
by the first of November, and in a favorable situation
will flower by Christmas. They can just as well be
brought on in shallow boxes if a greater number is re-
quired. The only care necessary in the house is to pro-
vide water when required, and to keep up as even a tem-
perature as possible. A check from want of water, or
because of too lowa temperature will prevent a perfect
development of flowers. After flowering, the florists
throw the bulbs into the rubbish heap, which is the only
thing to do, as after forcing they are not worth saving.
If grown more carefully in flats or pots until the bulbs
are matured, then planted in the open border, they will
flower moderately well for a number of years. But the
room required is of more value than the cost of the bulbs.

Dutch-Roman Hyacinth.—The Dutch growers
are now competing with the French growers with the
above named variety, which is claimed to be superior.
Those who have given it a fair trial do not admit its
superiority, and say that it is simply a selection of small
bulbs of extra early Dutch Hyacinth. We think thisis a

156 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

mistake, and believe the ‘‘ Dutch-Romans” to be a distinct
variety of Hyacinthus orientatis, known as albulus (small
white) quite distinct from the Roman. Our best growers
speak well of this for a second crop, both as regards qual-
ity of flower, and the price for which it can be obtained.
It requires to be treated in the same manner as is recom-
mended for the Roman Hyacinth.

The Persian Hyacinth.—This is botanically
known as Hyacinthus amethystinus, and is one of the
most beautiful of the species, because of its exquisitely-
colored flowers, varying from white to lake. It is by no
means showy, neither will it compare for general useful-
ness with any of the other species. Its flowers are small,
on a delicate stem ; its grace and color is what commends
it. It isa native of Spain, Italy and Russia. It closely
resembles the Scilla, and has been included in that genus
as S. patula. ‘Treat the same as the Dutch Hyacinth.

The Varieties and Synonyms of Hyacinths
are given in the following table:

Californian Hyacinth.—See Brodiwa. Page 45.

Cape Hyacinth.—See Scilla brachyphilla.

Dutch Hyacinth.—See Page 138.

Dutch-Roman Hyacinth.—See Page 155.

Fair Haired Hyacinth.—See Muscari comosum.

Grape Hyacinth.—See Muscari botryoides.

Persian Hyacinth.—See above. .

Roman Hyacinth.—See Page 153.

Star Hyacinth.—See Scilla ameena.

Starch Hyacinth.—See Muscari racemosum.

Tassel Hyacinth.—See Muscari comosum.

White Cape Hyacinth.—See Galtonia candicans,
Page 97.

Wild American Hyacinth.—See Camassia escu-
lenta, and C. Fraseri (Page 51).

Wild Hyacinth.—See Scilla nutans.

Winter Hyacinth.—See Scilla autumnalis.

HYDROTZANIA—HYMENOCALLIS,. 157%

The Hyacinth iv fabled to" ve sprung forth from the
blood of the fair-haired Hyacinthus, when accidentally
killed by the quoit of Apollo. Others derive it from
Cynthus, one of the names of the god himself, associated
with violets—a name, too, that might be taken to be ex-
pressive of the surpassing beauty and delightful fragrance
of the Hyacinth.

| HYDROTAENIA,

A synonym of Tigridia.
HYMENOCALLIS.

Many of the species that comprise this family were
formerly included in Choretis, Ismene and Pancratium.
H. rotata and H. speciosa are native bulbs, common from
North Carolina to Florida, and also in the West Indies.
They are so closely allied to Pancratium as not to be dis-
tinguished by the casual observer. They are all
swamp plants, and require to be grown in the green-
house. Large numbers are sold under the name of
‘Cuban Lilies. The flowers, in all the species, are white
or yellow, and of the same general character.

The Mexican Lily (4. Choretis) is a native of Texas
and Mexico. It grows freely in a light sandy soil in the
open border, or may be grown in pots in the greenhouse.
The flowers are very beautiful, pure white, with a green
eye and a greenish stripe. The bulbs require rest from
November until May, during which time they should be
kept dry and in a frost proof room.

The Peruvian Daffodil (Ismene) is remarkably hand-
some, and should be grown as generally as the Gladiolus,
or other summer-flowering bulbs. It thrives in the
poorest sandy soil, if dry; the only condition it does
not like is too much moisture. The bulbs can be taken
up in the autumn, and stored during winter in the same
manner as the Gladiolus. One of the two cultivated
species is H. Amancaes, the sacred flower of the Peru-

158 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

vians, in honor of which they hold every year a kind of
religious ceremony, in which holy images are strangely
mixed-up with scenes of dancing and feasting. On the
24th of June the inhabitants of Lima sally forth, on
horseback, in carriages and on foot, and, passing through
the Almeda, or common promenade, they proceed to
some hills about two miles from the city, which, though
usually bare of vegetation, are then yellow with the flow-
ers of the Amancaes. On the sandy or volcanic soil of
these hills innumerable booths are erected ; and here the
visitors take refreshment, after walking to and fro, and
decorating themselves and their horses with the flowers
of the Amancaes. The amusements of the day consist
principally of music and dancing, and these are strangely
mixed up with religious ceremonies. In the evening
the crowds return to the city, so laden with flowers as to
look, in the light of the setting sun, like a stream of
molten gold. The other Peruvian Daffcdil is H. cala-
thinum, a very handsome species from Buenos Ayres,
which has large, pure white, delightfully fragrant flow-
ers. Its culture is the same as the foregoing, but it is a
more vigorous plant, and will grow in other than sand,
which the first named species will not. It makes a
charming pot plant.

HY POXIS.
Star Grass.

A small genus of tuberous-rooted plants widely dis-
seminated, and differing considerably in character. The
only species worthy of cultivation is H. erecta, our com-
mon Star-grass, which is a beautiful little plant indige-
nous from the Atlantic to the Great Plains, and south-
ward. Its flowers are bright yellow with brownish stripe
on the outside of the petals, and though they are small,
yet from their great abundance and the length of time
they continue, they are worthy a place in every garden.

IMANTOPHYLLUM—INDIAN SHOT, 159

They are among our earliest wild flowers, and none are
more beautiful. In the fields the flower stems are from
four inches to a foot in hight. Under cultivation the
flowers are larger and the stems or scapes grow higher.
They increase rapidly by offsets.

IMANTOPHYLLUM.

No little confusion has existed in the nomenclature
of plants of this genus. The genus has been considered
a synonym of Clivia, both names having been given to the
same species. Between J. miniatum and C. nobilis,
which have been considered the same species, there is a
marked difference in the flowers; those of the former
are erect and much larger than those of the latter,
which are drooping and of a darker color. In general
appearance they closely resemble each other, and the
same treatment is required for both. See Clivia, Page 58,

I. cyrtanthiflorum, (Cyrtanthus-flowered).—Flow-
ers clear, rich salmon, or light flame-colored. This isa
supposed hybrid between the Clivia nobilis and J.
miniatum.

I. miniatum.—A native of Natal, having fine deep
orange flowers, lower parts deep buff. JL. m. splendens
is a variety with brighter and deeper colored flowers.
There are numerous hybrids said to be very attractive,
which are but little cultivated.

INDIAN SHOT.
See Canna. Page 52.
INDIAN TURNIP.
See Arisema. Page 31.
IRIS.

Fleur de Lis or Flower de Luce.
In the long list of flowering plants there does not
appear a genus so widely distributed, so generally known,

160 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

so variable in character, and at the same time so readily
distinguished as the Iris, the type of the natural order
Tridacee. The species abound in various parts of the
globe, growing under the greatest variety of conditions,
mostly in damp or marshy situations ; but some even in
dry and gravelly soils. In the various species may be
found some of our most charming and desirable herba-
ceous plants, suited to all soils and conditions, either in
sun or shade. Some of the species have tuberous roots,
others creeping root-stalks or rhizomes; while others,
including, perhaps, the most beautiful species of all,
have fibrous roots. The flowers of each and all, widely
as the plants may differ in form or habit, have a form
and beauty peculiarly their own. They have been very
appropriately considered the connecting link between
the Lilies and the Orchids.

Bulbous Iris.—This is the first of the three large
and distinct sections into which the Zris genus has been
divided. These are Bulbous, Tuberous and Japanese.

I. Vulgare (Xiphium, or Spanish).—This is one
of the most common species known to the trade, the
bulbs being annually sent out with the Dutch bulbs
in autumn. ‘The flowers are very beautiful, and of va-
rious colors, quite fragrant, appearing in June. These
bulbs are classed perfectly hardy, but they will not endure
much frost; perhaps it is because they exhaust them- .
selves in reproduction, as they increase rapidly by off-
sets. When the offsets are not required for propagation,
the foreign gardeners push them off as soon as they
appear, in order that the bulbs may not be weakened.
The leaves remain green the entire winter, and for their
protection the plants should be slightly covered with
leaves in Autumn, in a changeable climate. Most of
the bulbs of this species, sold as varieties, are seedlings,
hybrids between this species and J. xiphioides.

I. xiphioides (/. anglica, English).—The bulbs
of this species somewhat resemble the foregoing, but are

IRIS. 161

larger and more nearly round. The name is a misnomer,
as the plant is a native of the Pyrenees, but has been
common in English gardens since 1571. The flowers are
exceedingly showy, produced on strong, erect stems about
two feet high, from one to three on a stem. The flowers
are of various colors, blue, white, lavender, crimson and
yellow. Like the foregoing, the bulbs should be planted in
autumn, as quickly as they can be procured. They are
not so cheap as the Spanish Iris, because they do not
increase as rapidly.

I. persica (Persian).—This is one of the earliest
and the most beautiful of the bulbous species. It comes
into flower before the Crocus disappears and is equally as
hardy. It isa native of Persia, whence it was introduced
into England by the Queen of Charles I. Bulbs of this
species may be treated in all respects as the Hyacinth.
They will flower equally well in pots, or in water in
glasses ; in this manner they may be made to flower all
through the winter. The species are dwarf-growing ;
flowers small, of various shades of blue.

I. pavonia (Peacock).—-Botanically this species
may now be found under Morea. We prefer placing
it where it is popularly known. This is one of the small-
est of the species, but very beautiful; flowers pure white
blotched with blue. The bulbs are not hardy, but can
be grown in the cool greenhouse or in a cold frame.

I. tuberosa (Snake’s Head).—As its name im-
plies, this variety is tuberous rather than bulbous, but
more nearly like the latter than the tuberous-rooted spe-
cies. ‘The flowers are beautiful and curious, green and
velvety black ; they are very early, and should have the
protection of a frame, as the frost would kill the flowers,
if it did not injure the plant.

I. susiana (Chalcedonian).—This is one of the
most magnificent of the species, and has, like the preced-
ing, tuberous rather than bulbous roots. It is a native

Et .

162 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

of Turkey, and has long been popularly known as the
Turkish Flower-de-Luce. It is one of the oldest plants
of the English gardens, and was described by Gerard in
1629 as follows :—‘‘The greate Turkie Flower-de-Luce
hath divers heads of long and broad fresh greene leaves,
yet not so broad as many of those that follow, one folded
within another at the bottome, as all other of the Flower-
de-Luces are; from the middle of some of these heads
(for every head of leaves beareth not a flower) riseth up a
round, stiffe stalke, two foote high, at the top wherof
standeth one flower (for I never observed it to beare two),
the largest almost, but rarest of all the rest, consisting of
nine leaves, like the others that follow, but of the colour
almost of a snake’s skinne, it is so diversely spotted ; for
the three lower falling leaves are very large, of a deepe,
or dark purple colour, almost blacke, full of grayish
spots, strakes and lines through the whole leaves, with a
black thrume or freeze in the middle of each of them ;
the three arched leaves that cover them are of the same
dark purple colour, yet a little paler at the sides; the
three upper leaves are very large, also, and of the same
colour with the lower leaves, but a little more lively and
fresh, being speckled and straked with whiter spots and
lines; which leaves being laid in water will color the
water a violet colour; but if a little alume be put therin,
and then wrung or pressed and the juice of these leaves
dryed in the shadow, will give a colour almost as deep
as Indigo, and may serve as shadows in limming excel-
lent well; the flower hath no scent that can be perceived,
but is only commendable for the beauty and variety
therof ; it seldome beareth seedes in these cold countries,
but when it doth it is contained in greate heads, being
brownish and round, but not so flat as the other sorts ;
the roots are more browne on the outside, and growing
tuberous thicke, as all others that are kept in gardens.”

While this is one of the most magnificent species of
the Iris, it is a little difficult to manage in our gardens;

em

t

IRIS. 163

not alone because of its not being hardy, but if left in
the ground after its leaves have died down in the spring,
jt is lable to make an autumn growth, which is fatal to
its flowering the following spring. It should be grown
either in a frame or in a cool greenhouse. It is remark-
ably beautiful in the house, as a pot plant. The only
care necessary is to let it grow, when it starts, and give
it perfect rest after flowering.

Tuberous-Rooted Iris.—The most prominent in
this class is J. germanica, or German Iris, and it is one

aN II): NW |
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GERMAN IRIS, PLANT AND FLOWER.

of the most valuable of the early or medium early flower-
ing sorts for the herbaceous border. The flowers are
large and showy, and produced so freely that the plants,
in May, are a mass of blue, bright yellow, purple of all
shades, white, and all the shades of color that the vari-
ous combinations will produce. When care and system
have been employed in planting, a mass of German Iris
is a gorgeous sight. This species is perfectly hardy, bnt
will be greatly benefited by a light mulching of leaves

164 BULBS AND TUBE:.0US-ROOTED PLANTS.

or coarse litter in autumn. It is not at all particular as
to soil, preferring a rather heavy and moist one, but will
give great satisfaction in any soil or situation. The
tubers may be planted, either in spring or early autumn,
the latter being preferable, as they start very early in
the spring. Plant about a foot apart each way, and they
will soon completely cover the ground. Propagation is
by division, or from seed. The rapidity with which plants
can be produced from seed, and the great variation of
color in the seedlings, none of which are poor, has been
the means of increasing this class to an almost unlimited
extent. A choice of these the buyer must make for
himself, color or combination being the principal object,
there being a marked uniformity in the size of the plants.

I. cristata (Crested).—This is a native American
species of very dwarf habit, abundant in the mountain
regions of Virginia, Kentucky and southward. The
flowers are a delicate lilac, with yellow throat, and finely
crested, appearing eurly in May. Asa border plant it
has no superior; it is perfectly hardy and wonderfully
floriferous. It is rapidly increased by division, and wi |
thrive anywhere. There are more than fifty other spe-
cies of this tuberous-rooted class.

Japanese Iris (/ris levigata, I. Kempfert).—This
forms a distinct type, and is the most valuable of
the genus for garden decoration. The plants are per-
fectly hardy, and strong growers. The flower stalks, if
planted in good scil, will grow fully four feet high, with
abundance of bloom. The flowers are proportionately
large ; they open perfectly flat, are from six to ten inches
in diameter, some single, some double, in various shades
of color; pure white, dark purple, maroon, violet and
plum, with very distinct pencilmgs and markings;
some are strangely and beautifully marbled. To have
these in perfection the soil should be moist, deep and
rick They are gross feeders, but pay for their keeping.

IRIS.

TYPES OF THE JAPANESE IRIS.

199 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

While they succeed finely in broad sunlight, the warm
sun of June, when they are in flower, quickly destroys
the delic:te flowers. To guard against this, they should
be slightly protected on the south and west. If they
can be planted in moist ground, near the edge of a
stream, perfection will be reached. If planted in good
soil, they should be divided as often as once in three
years, as they do not bloom as well when the roots be-
come massed, possibly because they cannot get suffi-
cient nourishment when in large clumps. A portion
only, should be divided each year, as it takes one year
to make strong crowns for the next year’s flowers. This
species is also grown readily from seed, which should be
sown in carly spring, in drills, as we sow peas; trans-
plant the ‘following spring into rows three feet apart,
the plants one foot apart in the rows. With good culti-
vation, nearly every plant will flower the second year.
A large mass of these seedlings, no two of which will be
precisely alike, but all good, has no superior in the floral
world. After the first flowers appear, such as are the
feast desirable can be thrown out, giving the remainder
a better chance to grow, which they will do so rapidly
as to form a perfect mass in two years thereafter.

ISMENE.

See Peruvian Daffodil (Hymenocallis Amancaes),
Page 157.
IXIA.

This interesting genus of Cape bulbs now includes
about thirty species, and very many garden varieties, the
result of cross-fertilization, a work that, in this case, has
been unusually successful, as the size of the flowers has
been materially increased without loss of vigor in the
plant, or in the wonderful colors and markings of the
flowers. Since the introduction of this genus, some
twelve others have been formed out of it; im doi:zg t’.'s

IXIA. 167

come very fine distinctions were made by the specialist.
The species are all of great beauty, producing flowers of
many colors,—pink, rose, crimson, orange, yellow,
cream-col_r, white and variegated. In many varieties
these colors are strangely blended, but always clear, and
the markings entirely distinct. They make splendid
pot plants for the conservatory or greenhouse ; in fact,
there are but few plants more showy. They should be
potted, say twelve in a six inch pot, in rich, light soil,
in October, and set aside until they commence to grow,
when they should be brought into full light, in a moder-
ately warm greenhouse. They will come into flower in
midwinter, and remain objects of great beauty for some
weeks. After flowering, and the bulbs have perfected
their growth, they should be dried off, and kept dry and
dark until the first of October, when they should be
repotted. The offsets, which are produced freely, should
be thrown away, as they do not flower until the second
year, and the bulbs are so cheap that it does not pay to
grow them. ‘These bulbs can also be grown in a cold
frame, but they must be insured against both frost and
excessive moisture. If grown in a frame, the bulbs
should be planted two inches apart and three inches
deep. Few of the species are in cultivation, the garden
varieties having superseded them. The following, how-
ever, are well worth growing:

I. aulica.—Tall, pink, eighteen inches, or two feet
high, flowering in April and May.

I. conica.—An orange colored species, about a foot
high, flowering in April and May.

I. crispa.—A curled leaved blue sort, flowering in
April and May.

I. erecta.—White, about one and one-half feet
high, flowering in May and June. There is also a flesh-
colored (incarnata), and yellow (lutea) variety.

I. incarnata.—Rich flesh-colored, flowering in
June and July, nine inches high.

168 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

I. leucantha.—Fine white, May i eight-
een inches high.

I. linearis.—Linear-shaped leaves, flowers white,
flowering in April and May.

I. maculata.—A white and brown spotted species,
about a foot high, flowering in May and June.

I. monadelpha.—This blue Ixia has the flowers
gathered together in bundles, and is dwarf and beautiful.

I. ochroleuca.—A cream-colored species.

I. patens.—This is a spreading-flowered pink spe-
cies, blooming in April, about one foot high.

I. Scillaris.—A various colored squill-like flower,
and one of the very earliest, flowering in January and
February.

IXIOLIRION.

A small genus of very pretty little plants, natives of
Syria, producing, in early spring, delicate tufts of pale
blue flowers. ‘They are rarely seen in cultivation, their
place being taken by more showy plants. They grow
as freely as the Crocus, and are increased by offsets.

JACK IN THE PULPIT.
See Arisema triphyllum, Page 31.
JACOBEAN LILY.
See Sprekelia, Page 22.
JONQUIL.
See Narcissus Jonquilla.
LACHENALIA.

Cape Cowslips.

A rather large genus of rather pretty Cape bulbs of
easy culture, preferring a light sandy soil and the cool
greenhouse. The plants are small, flower-scapes erect,
bearing numerous pendulous flowers, yellow and green,
or scarlet and green; more curious than beautiful. The

LAPEYROUSIA—LEUCOCORYNE. 169

foliage of some of the species is prettily variegated.
They are readily increased by offsets. Like all Cape
bulbs, they require active growth, or absolute rest. Being
the first bulbs to flower in the winter is an inducement
to their cultivation. The best of the species are:

. anguinea.— White, with variegated foliage.

. luteola.—Yellow.

. pendula.—Scarlet and green.

. tricolor.—Red, green and yellow; very pretty.
. uniflora.—Green.

LAPEYROUSIA.

Peyrousia or Oveida.

ll esl ane alee

A small genus of Cape bulbs, flowers white, blue,
violet or pink. Closely resembling the Ixias, Page 166 ;
the plants require the same general treatment. When
plants are grown for their real beauty, these will become
generally cultivated.

LEUCOCORYNE.

A genus of small, low-growing Liliaceous plants,
with large flowers, from South America; blooming in
early autumn if treated in the same manner as the Glad-
iolus; they are also beautiful pot plants for the conserva-
tory. If planted closely together in the border, their
white and lilac flowers make a beautiful display.

LEUCOIUM.
The Snowflake, or Erinosma.

This genus of handsome spring and summer flower-
ing bulbs was formerly included with Acis and Erinos-
ma, but was separated by Dean Herbert, the acknowl-
edged authority on bulbs and tuberous-rooted plants.
The genus now includes the following species:

L. vernum (Spring Snowflake, or St. Agnes’
flower).—A hardy bulb, growing from twelve to eighteen

170 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

inches high, producing very elegant and delightfully fra-
grant flowers, pure white, with a green spot on each
petal near the point. The flowers resemble the Snow-
drop, but are much larger, and appear about a month
later. It is one of the most desirable of early flowering
bulbs, and is suitable for rock-work or borders. The
plants delight in a sheltered, partially shaded situation,
and a light, well drained soil. This species is indigenous
to Central Europe, abounding in woods and shaded sit-
uations. It was introduced in 1596, and was dedicated
to St. Agnes. In Parkinson’s Herbal it is described as
the Great Early Bulbous Violet. It is rapidly propa-
gated by offsets. See Engraving, Page 96.

L. zestivum (The Summer Snowflake).—A very
pretty drooping flower, with bright green spots on its
white petals; but it is much less ornamental than the
spring Snowflake. The leaves of this species are of a
bright yellowish green; a rather uncommon condition, as
the leaves of most bulbs have a bluish tinge, except when
they are beginning to decay. It is a native of Europe,
flowers in June, and is propagated by offsets. Cultiva-
tion is the same as for the foregoing species.

LIBERTIA.

A beautiful genus of Iridaceous plants, natives of
Australia, Tasmania, New Zealand and China. But
few of the species are what might be termed half-hardy.
They are charming plants when they can be grown in
the border, but will not endure much frost. They are
not adapted to greenhouse culture.

L. formosa.—A beautiful plant, either for sum-
mer or winter, owing to the color of its foliage, which is
a dark shining green, and it produces spikes of flowers
of snowy whiteness, with a delicacy of some of the finer
Orchids. It is neat, dwarf and compact, and has flow-
ers much larger than those of the other species.

LILY. re

L. ixioides.—A handsome New Zealand evergreen
species, with narrow grassy foliage and small white flow-
ers. ‘I'he plants require a warm border of light soil ;
they will also thrive in the rockery, and are rapidly
propagated by seeds, or careful division in spring.

LILY.
Lilium.

We give to the lily a large space, because it is first
in importance in the bulb garden, in the history of flow-
ering plants, and in the hearts of all true lovers of the
beautiful in floral form and color. It is, moreover, the
best representative of the natural order to which it
belongs, which includes not only the most remarkable
hardy herbaceous plants, but also greenhouse plants and
important vegetables. The order JLiliacee contains
more than one hundred and eighty genera, and nearly
twenty-five hundred species, the best known of which,
besides the Lily, are the Hyacinth, Tulip, Agapanthus,
Frittilaria, Scilla and the Onion. The Lily derives its
name from the Celtic word, li, signifying whiteness ; the
Lily having long been considered an emblem of white-
ness and purity.

The genus Liliwm embraces about fifty distinct spe-
cies, most of which belong to the northern hemisphere,
and, with the exception of the few found in the moun-
tains of sub-tropical Asia, all the species belong to
the temperate regions. North America furnishes a
large number of ornamental and useful species, all of
which are highly honored in foreign lands. Japan
has furnished, by far, the largest number of beau-
tiful species under cultivation, as ZL. auratum, L.
speciosum (erroneously known as L. lancifolium), L.
Leichtlinti, L. Brownti, L. tigrinum, and L. elegans
(Thunbergianum), with its synonyms. The Lilium
candidum, the chaste beauty and grace of which is not

172 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

equalled by that of any other flower, comes from the
Levant. Asia furnishes the ZL. chalcedonicum and the
L. monadelphum, the latter varying in some respects
slightly, and sold under several specific names; Siberia
furnishes the lovely little LZ. tenuifolium, which is
there used as an article of food; most of the other spe-
cies are scattered over Europe. ‘Thus, it will be seen,
the species have a wide geographical range. With the
exception of those found in Japan and California, within
certain limits the species bear a close resemblance in
their generic characters. In Japan nearly every form
and color the genus affords is to be found, with some
peculiarities exclusively her own; characters that go to
make up flowers superior in point of true beauty and
loveliness to any of the species native elsewhere, always
excepting LZ. candidum, which has no equal.

In each of the species there is a marked variation in
the color and shape of the flowers, in the height and gen-
eral habit of the plant; though not enough to be termed
specific, yet sufficient to establish a variety entitled to a
distinctive name. By systematic selection the grower
has been enabled to multiply varieties to an almost un-
limited extent. One dealer in Holland has listed in his
catalogue fifty varieties of Thunbergianum, nearly as
many of Umbellatum, thirty-five varieties of Speciosum
(Lancifolium), twelve of Tigrinum, eight of Candidum,
and so on through the list. In either case from one to
six varieties would fairly represent the species and avoid
great confusion in nomenclature. The multiplication of
varieties of the Lily has caused the beginner sad annoy-
ance; his unpracticed eye fails to discern the fine shades
and markings, that seem so important to the enthusi-
astic grower, and he naturally concludes that he has but
one variety under several names. In a measure, he is
correct, as is any one that buys any number of scarlet
Pelargoniums, or Verbenas, to which the grower has given

TIL. iis

as many distinctive names, when none other could possi-
bly see the points of difference. ‘The Lily is one of the
few plants that we think has never been improved by
hybridization, or cross-fertilization. Efforts without
number have been made in this direction, many of
which we have watched with the greatest interest and
with the closest attention, yet we cannot note a single
instance where there has been the slightest improvement
in the flower, in any respect. On the contrary, we have
usually noticed a decrease in the vigor of the plant, and
the quality of the flower. It seems to us that every step
in this direction has been a step backward; that nature
has exhausted her resources in the perfection of the
species, and regards as an interference all efforts of man
to improve her work. There are now under cultivation
many seedlings from the species that, in some points of
marking, are to be preferred to the parent; this we con-
sider the result of their natural tendency to variation,
rather than the result of any systematic effort for im-
provement. High cultivation, which includes careful
protection against cold, heat, drouth and water, all of
which points will be duly considered, is the great secret
of improvement; a proper amount of attention in this
direction will increase the vigor of the plants, the size,
number and general character of the flowers.

It does not seem necessary to improve, or, rather,
to attempt an improvement on that which is already
perfect, as the Lily is, wherever found in its native
habitat. Nature has endowed the Lily with every ele-
ment of grace and beauty, not only in outline, but in
color, or the happy blending of colors, in forms most
varied and beautiful, in fragrance delightful; in short,
in all the characters essential to real beauty. Certainly,
the ease with which many varieties produced their
rapid increase, has placed them in the list of common
plants, as though a plant must be difficult to manage, or

174 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

that any given color loses its beauty in proportion to the
increase of its quantity. As an example, we do not
think there is a more beautiful form in the garden than
the Tigrinum, when properly grown; neither do we
think there is a color more showy or pleasing than that
of its flowers, and, if rare, none would be more eagerly
sought. Yet this plant is usually regarded as a weed.
The limit of perfection with the Lily, as with many other
plants, is to give it all the attention necessary, both in
place and cultivation, to enable it to reach that perfec-
tion which marks its growth, unaided, in its own habitat.
Any change of color, or form, from the original, disturbs
that harmony of arrangement necessary to the highest
development of beauty.

Cultivation of the Lily.—Many amateurs and
professional gardeners experience considerable difficulty
in cultivating the more valuable varieties, which include
many of those of recent introduction, and, notwithstand-
ing that seemingly every precaution is taken to protect
and secure them from injury during the winter season,
it is found that very many perish ; and others, though
preserved alive, are maintained in such a sickly condi-
tion that they never yield a perfect flower. It is but
natural to suppose that for these injurious effects there
must be an exciting, vital cause. This we have long
and patiently sought for, and will explicitly give the
results of our investigation as briefly as possible; and
having shown the cause of failure, the remedy will be
obvious.

Lilies are not Hardy.—The principal cause of
failure in cultivating Lilies lies in over-estimating their
hardiness, their power to endure the rigors of the winter.
It is the general opinion of those authorized to speak for
the Lily, that, with but few exceptions, the species are
perfectly hardy in a temperate climate. This opinion,
which is supposed to be correct, finds its way into the

nd -.

LILY. 173

seedsmen’s catalognes, prominent in the cultural instruc-
tions, and the trustful beginner, not taking the proper
precautions, loses his bulbs. So well established has this
opinion become, that failure wholly due to frost is
attributed to some unknown cause. ‘This opinion is
founded on the fact that the species denominated hardy
ure natives of either cold, or temperate climates. A more
erroneous opinion, or one fraught with more danger to
the plant, could not well be entertained. ‘The species
that are truly hardy in New York, other than those
indigenous to the soil, are remarkably few; indeed, they
are the exception rather than the rule. While it is true
that some of the species are found in the coldest parts
of the habitable globe, growing most luxuriantly, it is
equally true that those same species, grown in temperate
climates, are not hardy to a degree which renders it safe
to plant them in our borders without protection.

It is but proper to remark, at this time, that there ©
is no climate so severe on every class of bulbs, such
as are usually considered hardy, and left in the open
border during winter, as that of the Middle Atlantic
States. This is particularly applicable to the Atlantic
coast, from Massachusetts to Virginia, where the ther-
mometer often indicates forty degrees of frost when
there is not a particle of snow on the ground for the pro-
tection of vegetation. In these localities the frost pene-
trates the earth to a great depth, and is soon thawed
out. These constant changes from freezing to thawing
cause the earth to contract and expand to such a degree
as to frequently tear the bulbs in pieces. We have
known whole fields destroyed in this manner. This
shows the mechanical effect of freezing. Now let us be
more specific. Siberia affords us a striking illustration
of climatic influences on growth and preservation of
bulbs. There the beautiful little Tenuifolium is indige-
nous, and there it is largely employed as an article of

176 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

food. In its native habitat it is perfectly hardy ; at least,
it is never injured by the excessive cold. Here it is
not hardy, and must be protected against frost in order
to secure blooms. Why? Simply because, in its Sibe-
rian home, the first indication of winter is a snowstorm
that covers the ground so deeply that frost rarely, if
ever, enters the ground atall. In our temperate clime
the earth is frozen to a depth entirely unknown there,
notwithstanding their climate is much the colder.

The same is true in regard to the Martagon, the
bulbs of which are largely used by the Cossacks as a
vegetable; with them it is perfectly hardy; with us, in
a much milder climate, it will rarely survive but a single
season, unless protected, but with that precaution, it
grows with much more vigor here than in its native
home. In England all the Turks’ Cap Lilies grow to a
size unknown where they are indigenous. ‘This is be-
cause, in England, the frost never reaches them, and the
other conditions of growth are more favorable.

The White Turks’ Cap Lily, Lilium Martagon
album, mm the northern part of New York, in the North-
ern States, and in Lower Canada, thrives with all the
vigor of a native plant. We have known this bulb, in
one locality, to increase so fast that it crowded out other
bulbs in the garden, and was regarded as a native plant.
Near the ocean it is rarely seen, in fact, cannot be grown,
excepting it be protected from frost, either by a frame,
or by mulching. Away from the Atlantic coast, and in
Germany, its native home, the snow affords ample
protection.

In many sections of our country, where the ground
is usually covered with snow during winter, Lilies of all
kinds grow to the greatest perfection. We have seen
finer bulbs of the Auratum, Brown, Chalcedonicum,
Martagon and other species grown in Vermont, where
they were protected by snow, than we have ever seen
grown in any other country. Here the Auratum is

BILY: 177

always healthy, and increases rapidly, which it does not
do in less favored situations. There are many other
plants protected by snow in the same, or in a similar,
manner. We notice on the Alps, at an elevation that
permits of only four months of spring, summer and
autumn, that the Primula auricula grows in the greatest
luxuriance and profusion. There the frost never reaches
it, as it is constantly and completely protected with
snow through eight months of winter. In the valleys
below, where there is no snow and but little frost, the
same plant will not live through the winter without arti-
ficial protection. It is not so much the cold that injures
or destroys many of the species, as the disintegration
which follows alternate freezing and thawing. We have
often had bulbs of the Tigrinum, Umbellatum and Spe-
ciosum (Lancifolium) remain on the surface during win-
ter, without fatal injury, while those in the ground were
completely destroyed.

The question may be asked, and it is a pertinent
one, ‘‘Do not our native Lilies have the same elements
to contend against as those not indigenous to our soil,
and having them, escape uninjured?” Certainly, yes;
but nature always protects her own, and in collecting
our native species, we see how wisely and beautifully it
is done. The ZL. superbum is rarely found, excepting
in woods, or marshy grounds; the low-growing trees or
shrubs form a complete net-work of roots above and
beneath the bulbs, affording the most ample protection
against the action of the frost, should it penetrate the
heavy mulching of leaves that nature has provided for
their protection. The Z. canadense, or common Lily
of northern meadows, forms its bulbs very deep, usually
beyond the reach of frost, and has for a covering a heavy
turf, than which there can be no better protection.
This Lily, in our cultivated fields or nursery grounds, is
by no means hardy.

12

178 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

sop told the gardener of his master, Xanthus,
that ‘‘The earth is stepmother to those plants which
were incorporated into her soil, but a mother to those
which are her own free production.” This may suggest
the reason why our own species are capable of with-
standing the severity of our winters, while those from
foreign countries are not.

Whatever may be the cause of failure, we find, e
our own experience and observation, that where Lilies
are protected so that frost cannot reach them, they will
invariably succeed, and thrive in proportion as the other
conditions of growth are more or less favorable; while
those left unprotected, if in an exposed situation, are
quite as sure to die.

Let us state a single instance, in corroboration of
the facts as stated. A friend and neighbor had a pecu-
liar fondness for bulbs, Lilies in particular. Of these
his choice was the ZL. speciosum (lancifolium). He
planted, in early spring, in a bed four feet in diameter,
a dozen bulbs of the different varieties. They grew
moderately well, as they should in good soil, his being
kept covered with grass cut from the lawn. Soon after
the first frost he covered the bed, to the depth of six
inches, with coarse manure, extending over the grass to
double the size of the bed. The following seasons there
was an enormous growth ; some of the plants were neariy
six feet high, their stems being an inch or more in diam-
eter at the base, bearing from twenty to thirty flowers
each, of a size and substance rarely seen. This bed was
allowed to remain undisturbed for several years, the -
plants keeping up their vigor of growth, and increasing
with the most wonderful rapidity ; in fact, when they
were removed the ground seemed all bulbs.

The mulching, or the protecting of a bed of Lilies,
is a simple and inexpensive matter. The best and most
natural mulching we have ever used is a covering, say

hiny. 179

six inches in depth, of newly fallen leaves, kept in place
by some brush or a few pieces of board. Any coarse hay
is also an excellent protection ; cornstalks answer a very
good purpose; in short, whatever material is the most
convenient that will accomplish the purpose, is the best.

Wet Soil Injurious.—The next important cause
of failure in Lily culture is in planting in wet situations,
much water around the bulbs in winter being about as
injurious to the plant as much frost. In situations
where water covers the ground for any great length of
time when the bulbs are at rest, or during winter, they
will not be likely to succeed, and are liable to perish.
There are many gardens noted for their productiveness,
which cannot be planted before the first of May, because
of too much moisture; such a one is not the congenial
home of the Lily. The remedy is to plant in a raised
bed. This should be, when finished, at least eighteen
inches above the level, and is best made in the following
manner: Lay out a bed of the required size and desired
shape; upon this place any rough stones, about a foot
high, irregularly, so that the spaces between them will
not be more than their diameter; fill these spaces with
good strong soil even with the tops of the stones; partly
rotted turf is the best; on this soil place the bulbs, about
eighteen inches apart each way; then between the bulbs
place stones of about six inches in diameter, in the same
uregular manner as the first layer; then cover the whole
with the same preparation of soil that was placed between
the first layer of stones, and the work is complete. The
bulbs should not be placed nearer than a foot from the
edge of the bed, which should be sloping and neatly
sodded, and should always be as closely cut as the lawn
during summer. ‘This bed will require the same mulch-
ing during the winter as though the bulbs were planted
in the ordinary border. With these precautions all gar-
den Lilies can be grown in perfection, and will reward

180 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

the grower liberally for all the care and attention given.
For a vigorous growth of plant and a perfect devel-
opment of the flower a few other precautions are neces-
sary, although fair success may be obtained without
them. With the Lily, as with every other plant, the
better the treatment the better will be the result; and
nowhere is neglect more apparent than in the garden, as
there we want, at all times, a display that can only be
had by persistent effort and constant care. The Lily
occupies a prominent position, and can be had in bloom
for nearly four months in the season; it is, therefore,
important that it should not suffer from neglect of any
kind. It is important, too, that we should have the
very best results obtainable. A plant with from thirty
to forty perfectly developed fiowers is an object of pride
to its owner, when compared, as is often the case, with
one of the same variety with not more than one-fifth the
number, and these of poorly grown flowers.

Lilies of all kinds dislike extremes; they suffer from
too much water, and are quite as impatient of heat as of
extreme cold. We have shown how they can be pro-
tected against moisture; how to protect againt heat is
the next consideration. To protect against heat at the
root, which is often a serious injury to the plant, the
surface of the bed should be carefully mulched during
summer, in order to keep the ground cool and moist.
This is not only necessary for the full development of
the flower, but also for the growth of the bulb, the
plant’s storehouse of food, by the aid of which it com-
mences operations the coming season, both as to the
development of seed and the increase of bulbs, for the
extension and perpetuation of the plant. For this pur--
pose any sightly mulch is suitable; fresh cut grass
from the lawn answers a good purpose, as do leaves, or
litter of any kind. We have seen Lilies, heavily mulched
with leaves, grown in the shrubbery border, that, for

LILY, 181

size and vigor, far surpassed our ideas of the capability
of the plant. We have seen the Z. superbum, grown in
this manner, more than eight feet high, with a corres-
ponding size of stalk and number of flowers. In fact,
we do not know of a grander object in the garden than
a group of this Lily grown under such circumstances.

In a moderately wet season a mulch of living plants
is not only beneficial, but ornamental as well; for this
purpose we should recommend the use of some low-grow-
ing plant, the Verbena, Dwarf Petunia, or any other plant
that will not offend the eye and cover the ground quickly,
continuing in flower the whole season. We have known
good effects to come from mulching L. longiflorum with
Pansies. In a dry season living plants will not do as
well as some other forms of mulch, as they draw too
much moisture from the Lilies, instead of protecting
them. For field culture a mulching of coarse hay or
straw answers well, but in the garden that, or any other
dry mulch, would appear unsightly.

Partial Shade Necessary.—The next precaution
is to have the Lily bed partially shaded, either by shrub-
bery, or so situated that the buildings will afford the
necessary shade; or the plants may be protected from
the midday sun by a light lattice roofing, say six feet
above the plants. An excellent plan is to put up a light
frame sufficiently large to surround the bed, and cover with
some very light and open canvas or cloth, to be used in
excessively hot weather. This will not only prolong the
season of flowering, but the flowers will be much larger,
the colors and markings more clearly defined, and the
petals will expand perfectly, without that tendency to
dry up or wither at the points, and the whole plant will
be stronger and more productive.

Best Soil For Lilies.—What soils do Lilies re-
quire, or in what kind do they sacceed best? These
questions are frequently asked, and seem to be of great

182 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

importance; to many they seem vital points. Our opin-
ion, based upon the experience of many years, is, that
the condition of the soil is of far greater importance than
its character, and it is upon the former that success
largely depends. We have grown Lilies in every variety
of soil, from the lightest sand to the heaviest clay, and
have met both success and failure in all their various char-
acters. Our preference is for a light loam, because in
it propagation is more rapid, and, in all cases, perfect
flowers are results of perfect development of the plant ;
should we not have such a soil, we plant in whatever we
have, knowing full well that the soil that will yield an
abundant crop of garden vegetables, or field crops, will
also produce Lilies and other flowers in profusion. It is
a great mistake to think that each and every plant must
have a soil with certain specific characters in which to
grow, in order to attain perfect development. It is true
that any given plant will do better in a soil congenial to
it, one similar to that of its native habitat, but it is
equally true that it will do well in a variety of soils
where other conditions are favorable. Plants do not live
on soil alone; they live in the soil, it is their home.
The soil contains certain elementary substances that con-
tribute to the growth of plants; the atmosphcre con-
tains an equal number; the two acting in harmony pro-
duce the plant. These conditions, in any given locality,
always exist; consequently, whether you have a clayey
or a sandy soil, you will have in the atmosphere condi-
tions favorable to it, so, in either case, the results will
be the same. In the one case you will be obliged to use
more labor, in the other more manure, to accomplish the
same purpose.

But can all the species be successfully grown in the
same soil? We answer, yes, as nearly as those of any
other genus of plants with which we are acquainted.
Make a heavy soil rich, and provide good drainage,

ELLY. 183

and you will get an abundance of beautifu] Lilies. Make
a light soil rich, and carefully protect from the burn-
ing sun,—the soil by a proper mulch, and the flowers by
a suitable screen,—and the same results will follow.

How To Plant.—The next consideration of im-
portance is, how to plant, and upon this much depends.
It is a part of the work but little understood, conse-
quently most generally neglected. ‘To prepare a proper
home for the Lily, the soil should be thrown out to the
depth of two feet; at the bottom there should be, at
Jeast, six inches in depth of well rotted manure, that
from the cow stable being preferable. The manure
should be thoroughly packed down, and upon it put
twelve inches of well rotted sod, or good garden soil,
then one inch of clean sand. Upon this bed place the
bulbs, and cover them with clean sand, then fill up with
the same kind of soil as is below the bulbs, rotted sod
being preferable; no manure should ever come in con-
tact with the bulbs, as it only tends to decay rather
than to strengthen them. The mission of the bulb is to
sustain the plant until there is root and leaf development
sufficient to carry on the work. The bulb is simply a
storehouse of food laid up by the plant this year, for the
commencement of its labors the next. The plant derives
its sustenance far away from the bulb, and will increase
in size and strength in proportion to the amount of food
in store for it, until it has reached its maximum growth.
If a good, strong, healthy bulb is planted in a good rich
soil, a correspondingly strong plant will be the result;
which, in its turn, will make a number of strong bulbs
for the perpetuation of the species. It is quite as impor-
tant to have the soil above the bulb as rich as it is below,
as most of the species feed near the surface, through
their thousands of roots thrown out from the stem just
above the bulb. The soil should be well drained.

The size and number of the bulbs formed this year
will depend upon the plants’ resources. If liberal depos-

184 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

its of food have been made, the increase will be in exact
ratio. Stimulating food will not do; it may, for a
period, show good results, but in the end a loss of vital-
ity and decay will be apparent.

When To Plant. —Our next consideration is when
to plant, and it is an important one. Planting at the
wrong time is a frequent cause of failure. There is but
a short period of the year when the bulbs are truly at
rest, and it is at that period that removals should be
made. These periods differ with the species. The
Lilium candidum should be removed in July, and re-
planted as soon thereafter as possible. ‘This Lily makes
a growth in autumn, upon which the bloom of the com-
ing season depends. None of the species are as impa-
tient of rest as this. The Liliwm eacelsum, an allied
species, does not mature as early, but is nearly as impa-
tient of rest; we find the best time to remove this bulb
is in September. This rule will also apply to L. Marta-
gon (‘Turk’s Cap), and its varieties. All the other spe-
cies can be taken up in October, and replanted, or kept
in store for sale; none of them should remain long out
of ground, but as soon as possible pack in leaf mold,
until the ground is in condition for planting in spring.
In removals from one part of the garden to another, in
the formation of new beds, we prefer taking up in spring,
after growth has commenced; take up, divide, and
replant as quickly as possible. We have never lost a
bulb by removal at this time. Under no circumstances
should Lily bulbs remain long out of ground, or get dry.
In importing new varieties, and for purposes of sale, it
is necessary to keep them dry longer than is expedient ;
every day they are out of the ground materially
weakens them, often beyond their power of recuperation.
Better, by far, to take up a Lily when in full flower,
than have a dry and shriveled bulb; in fact, we have
often taken up Lilies when in flower, without their sus-

LIGY, 185

taining the least injury. We do not wonder that grow-
ers get discouraged, in their efforts to establish a bed of
Lilies, when we see them purchase a collection of bulbs
that have been kept in dry sawdust, or exposed to the
dry atmosphere of a heated room from October until
May. Such bulbs will not recover until long after the
hopes of the gardener have blasted, and he has bestowed
his blighted affections on some other plant.

When Lilies have become well established, and
show, by their flowers, that they have a congenial home,
frequent removals are not desirable; the bed should
remain undisturbed as long as the plants bloom satisfac- -
torily. It is well to remove the small bulbs that form
at the base of the stem in early spring, and transfer
them to a well prepared bed, to perfect their growth,
after which they may be placed in a permanent bed.

In planting the small bulbs, it is the better plan not
to remove them from the stem, but to lay the portion of
the stem, with the bulbs attached, lengthwise in the
drill, and cover about two inches with good fibrous soil,
free from fresh manure; the decaying stem and mass of
roots that surround the young bulbs will, in their decay,
materially assist in the development of the young bulbs.

Lilies in Autumn.—While it is best to plant the
bulbs as we have above stated, there is a notable excep-
tion, which, like all others, confirms the rule. An ex-
periment, the result of accident, has shown us that
Lilies of all kinds can be had in autumn, as well as in
midsummer. The following is the result of our experi-
ence, as we reported it in the Garden and Forest, Octo-
ber, 1892: ‘‘ Last spring one of our seedsmen had a num-
ber of cases of assorted Lilies left over from spring sales.
After their journey from Japan in November of the pre-
vious year, and having been kept perfectly dry until the
middle of May, the prospect of flowers from these bulbs
was poor indeed. In hopes of saving something out of

186 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS,

them, we planted the lot about May 20th. To our sur.
prise, nearly all of them came up and made a vigorous
struggle for life. The result was that this morning
(October 10th) we have gathered from a bed of ZL. tt-
grinum splendens as fine spikes as ever were cut in July.
The plants of LZ. speciosum did nearly as well, but their
flowers were over last week, excepting ZL. speciosum
precox, which are in bloom, although the flowers are
considerably damaged by the storm. JL. longiflorum
bloomed well, but were all gone a month ago. The
plants of ZL. auratum behaved as they always do;
some came up quickly, and flowered in August, and
there have been flowers in the row every day since, while
some are just coming up. ‘These we shall pot for the
greenhouse if there are enough to make it pay. This
experience has taught us that the season of Lilies can be
kept up until after a hard frost, with but little trouble,
and add greatly to the display of autumn flowers. From
the show these Tiger Lilies are making, it is evident
they should not be allowed to bloom at any other season,
as their deep, rich orange-crimson flowers are now in
harmony with all their surroundings. For autumn
flowers the bulbs should be taken up in November,
packed away in dry sand or sphagnum moss, and stored
in some dry cool place until about May 15th. The low
price of the bulbs of the LZ. ¢igrinum should make them
popular autumn flowers, when they can be had with so
little trouble and expense.”

Selection of Lilies.—In the cultivation of Lilies,
the selection of varieties is an important consideration.
It depends wholly upon the taste of the individual, the
amount of money to be expended, and the amount of
room to be devoted to their culture, all of which points
must be determined by him. We shall describe accu-
rately all known species and distinct varieties, without,
in the least, advising as to choice. It is, however, well

LILY; 187

to remark that in making a selection one cannot well go
wrong, as there is not one in the long list which is
unworthy of a place in any choice collection of plants ;
but some are much more desirabie than others, as is the
case with every class of plants. Whoever makes a start
in Lily culture, and is successful,—as he will be, if he
follows the instruction given,—will be sure to embrace
in his collection as many varieties as his space and means
will afford.

The expense attending the collection of a large
number of the rarer species, deters many from making a
beginning. But the investment, heavy as it may seem at
the start, is, in reality, a good one, as plants that are
steadily and rapidly increasing in number, though they
may seem expensive, are, in the end, much cheaper than
those that must be renewed annually, as in the case of
the popular bedding plants, and many others of interest.
The annual increase of bulbs, when properly cared for,
will not only soon repay the original cost, but will yield
a large profit. The higher priced bulbs, when their
requirements are respected, increase as rapidly as many
of the cheaper ones, which makes their cultivation
profitable.

Forcing Lilies For Winter Flowers.—But two
of the many species of Lilies are grown in pots for win-
ter flowers, mainly because none others excepting L.
candidum and LL. longiflorum, and its varieties succeed
vell when grown in this manner, and because the flowers
of the other varieties are not in demand for decorative
purposes. Other than white Liles seem to be out of
place in floral designs or for table decoration, excepting
in the summer time.

“adlium canCidum, which is popularly known as
Annunciation Lily, the former Easter Lily, is largely
grown by florists for decorative purposes and for floral
designs, the single flower being admirably adapted to

ee

188 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

this purpose. It is not difficult to successfully grow the
plant. The method employed by those who grow this
Lily largely and well, is to pot the bulbs singly in eight
inch pots, as soon as the bulbs can be obtained, the
earlier the better, and when possible using a rich, lively
loam, avoiding fresh manure; plunge the pots to the
rim in a frame where they can have free sunlight and
air. Their annual autumn growth will soon commence,
when water should be freely given, and growth encour-
aged as much as possible, which will continue until the
ground is frozen. Upon the approach of frost, cover
the pots with newly fallen leaves, and cover the frames
with sash or shutters, using care to exclude heat, which
might stimulate untimely growth, and to keep out the
frost, or rather, hard freezing, in order that the pots
can be taken into the greenhouse as required, during
winter. The pots can be brought in at any time after
the plants have had a short rest. It is better, however,
not to start them too soon, but to commence about the
first of January, and bring them in as required for a
succession. ‘They are best grown in a cool house, where
they can have an abundance of light and air. When
crowded, in a warm house, they grow up long and weak,
and quickly become the prey of insect enemies. In a
cool house, say with a temperature of 60° F. by day, and
40° by night, they will come into bloom in ten weeks.
They can be made to bloom in much less time, but at
the expense of health to both plant and flower.

Home grown bulbs are greatly to be preferred to
imported ones, the latter quite frequently being injured
by heating in transit. Another reason for this prefer-
ence being that all vegetation is more rapid in this cli-
mate than in France, where these bulbs are principally
grown for the American market. Here the bulbs have
a longer period of rest, and develop their growth in a
much shorter period. The consequence is, the bulbs

LILY. 189

grown here will come into flower much gsvoner after
being brought into the house, than do those from foreign
countries. While this is the best method of growing
them, the more common one is to take the bulbs, as
imported, pot them from the first of October to the first
of December, plunging them in the same manner, and
in all respects treat in the same way. This does not give
the bulbs a chance to fill the pots with roots, or to make
the preliminary growth so essential to their perfect
development. If the florist grows his own bulbs he can
have them potted by the first of August, and they will
very soon commence their season’s work.

Treatment After Flowering in the Green-
house.—Soon after flowering, the pots can be put in
any out-of-the-way place, either in a cool shed, or under
the benches, there to remain until they can be planted
in the field for future use. There they should be liber-
ally treated, both as regards care in cultivation, and in
having a liberal supply of plant food. Bulbs that have
been forced should have a rest of, at least, two years in
the field, before they can be successfully grown again
in the pigenhouses

The Bermuda Lily.—This is the popular name
of L. longiflorum, var. eximium, first brought prom-
inently to the attention of the florists, by H. K. Harris,
of Philadelphia, under the name of ZL. Harrisii. It
was also sent out under the name of L. floribundum.
It is often called Easter Lily.

These bulbs are almost exclusively grown for forcing
purposes on the Island of Bermuda, where they perfect
their growth early in July. This fact is important, as
bulbs matured at that time will perfect their flowers in
the greenhouse fully two months earlier than those
grown at the North, where they do not ripen until Octo-
ber. The methods of cultivating this, the most showy
of Lilies for Easter decoration, are variable, each florist

3

190 BULLS AND TUBEROUS-RUOTED PLANTS,

A FIELD OF LILIES IN BERMUDA,

BERMUDA LILY. 191

having a plan of his own; or, at least, in visiting many
of the largest growers, we hear very different opinions
expressed, in regard to the size of the bulb to be grown,
for the greatest profit; the temperature required to bring
them forward to the best advantage, and whether they
are best grown in pots or on benches.

We find the better plan is to pot the bulbs as soon
as received from Bermuda, and that a careful selection
of sizes is a matter of great importance. It was, for
some years, thought that the larger the bulbs, the greater
would be the chances of success in their flowering; but
now the smaller sizes are more generally used. It is
found that well-matured bulbs, of from three to five
inches in circumference, well grown in a five-inch pot,
will give from one to three fiowers each, and that the
small bulbs will produce their flowers in a much shorter
time than the largest sized ones. As the flower stems
are cut, for decorative purposes, close to the pot, as soon
as two or three flowers are opened, the plant from the
small bulb will bring very nearly as much as the other,
which costs three times as much at the start, and as
much more to grow. The plant sells for a given price
per flower, and, as there are not usually more than three
open at a time, the unopened buds are of no value. The
profits of a grower depend largely upon how much he
can cut, or grow, on a given space, and in growing Lilies
he finds he can get double the number of stalks from a
bench planted with small bulbs, from what he could if
planted with the largest ones, consequently they are far
the more profitable.

There is another important consideration in the use
of small bulbs, viz., the time in which they can he
brought into flower. One florist, last season, cut his
first flowers at ‘* Thanksgiving,” and they came on rap-
idly thereafter. At this season flowers for decorative
purposes are in good demand, consequently they bring

192 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS,

satisfactory prices. As Christmas is one of the best sea-
sons for the sale of these flowers, it is an object to get
them in at that time, and the small bulbs are the only
ones that can be depended upon to furnish them.

When the bulbs are shipped from Bermuda, they
are in separate grades, as from three to five, and up to
from nine to twelve inches in circumference. Lach of
these grades should be made into two classes, the larger
and smaller to be potted separately ; for instance, those
between four and five inches should be put in six inch
pots, those from three to four inches will do well in five
inch pots. The larger sizes will require large pots, but,
except for large plants for exhibition or decorative pur-
poses, an eight inch pot is sufficiently large for any of
the bulbs. There is a peculiarity about this bulb not
common to any other. Hach seems to have a time of its
own to develop its flowers. In bringing forward a hun-
dred pots, where the bulbs were carefully selected as to
size, and all given the same treatment, there will be a
marked difference in their time of coming into flower.
For this reason, the practice of growing them in boxes
or planting them out on the benches, was abandoned,
there being a great loss in room to await the flowering
of the late ones, after the main crop had been cut.
When planted singly, in pots, they can be removed as
soon as the stems are cut, and their places filled by others
to keep up a succession.

In potting, soils of various character are used, not as
a matter of choice, but of necessity; the location of the
florist must decide that matter, as he is limited in his
choice. However, they will succeed in any good potting
soil, all other conditions being favorable. In potting,
do not press the bulb down so as to have the soil beneath
it hard, as the roots will not penetrate it freely, and do
not have the bulb more than half an inch below the rim
of the pot. Plunge the pots in coal ashes in a cold

BERMUDA LILY. 193

frame, and cover them with the same to the depth of one
or two inches, and over this a light covering of leaves or
fine hay, to prevent evaporation, and to keep the bulbs
moist and cool. ‘They should be kept perfectly dark,
and away from the air, which would have a tendency to
stimulate leaf-growth, which is undesirable until the
bulbs have had ample time to make root-growth, after their
natural and desired rest, before the stem starts, which is
one of the most important considerations in bulb culture.

For early flowers the pots can be brought into the
greenhouse by the middle of September, or as soon as
active growth has commenced, but never before the plant
has made a growth of, at least, an inch above the pot.
At this stage growth must be encouraged and steadily
maintained, a check is to them a serious matter, which
will be plainly shown by blight, some insect enemy and
the absence of flowers. For a healthful, vigorous growth,
a free circulation of air, even temperature and great
care in watering, are rules that must be strictly observed.
They do not require a high temperature, neither will
they submit to a lowone. For general cultivation in
the greenhouse, a temperature of from 70° to 80° by day,
and from 60° to 70° by night, will produce the best
results. But to be sure of a crop of flowers for Christ-
mas, a temperature of, at least, 5° higher, should be
maintained after the first four weeks.

For decorative purposes, where large specimen
plants are desired, the largest bulbs should be planted,
and if they have two or more divisions, all the better, as
a number of stems, with three or four flowers each, is a
more showy object than a single one can possibly be.
For this purpose it does not do to put several bulbs in
the same pot, because of the uncertainty of their coming
into flower at the same time. Specimen plants will not
bear crowding ; they must have plenty of room for a free
circulation of air around them, and a lower temperature

13

194 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

given them. ‘To be strong they must be grown slowly;
too much heat and little air will make a spindling plant,
that will not unfrequently drop its buds. When grown
slowly, the flowers will have more substance, they will
be larger, and there will be a larger number open at one
time, and will be mere enduring, which greatly enhances
their value.

Lilies For Easter.—The same rules should be
observed in forcing flowers for Easter; the larger bulbs
should be potted for this purpose, using eight inch pots.
Shonld the plants make a very vigorous growth, seem-
ingly too large for the pot, do not make a shift, under
any circumstances, but supply the additional food re-
quired, by liquid cow manure, which should be used lib-
erally twice a week.

L. longiflorum.—The type should be treated in
the same manner. ‘The only difference between the varie-
ties being, that the Longiflorum is later in coming
into flower, and is not so tall; its flowers are smaller,
but more enduring, and will bear transportation better.
A temperature 10° lower would be better for this Lily.
This is grown more for the Easter trade, which is the
harvest of this industry. The Bermuda grown bulbs
come into flower quicker than the Dutch grown ones,
because they are ripened earlier, but the Dutch bulbs,
we think, are preferable, as the plants are more dwarf,
and quite as floriferous. These should be potted as soon
as received, in October, and the flowers can then be had
for the Easter trade, and for decorative purposes for
some weeks thereafter, when the Eximiums are gone.

The Use of Bulbs After Forcing.—After the
bulbs are done flowering, water should be withheld for
about ten days; they should then be placed in a cold
frame, or sheltered spot, the balls packed close together,
with sufficient soil thrown over them to fill up the inter-
stices ; then cover with three or four inches of dry leaves,

LILY, 195

and if in midwinter, they must be covered with sash; if
in spring, the covering of leaves alone will be sutficient
to protect against frost. The bulbs so treated will flower
freely again in August, in the open ground, but would
not do as well to force for the succeeding winter, if
wanted for that purpose, and would require another
year’s growth to be in proper condition ; for that reason
it is the most economical plan to use the Bermuda grown
bulbs, which have been specially prepared for winter
forcing. The common practice is to throw the bulbs
away, but they can be grown for summer flowers, if
wanted.

Species and Varieties.—The following list in-
cludes all that are really useful for general cultivation,
or all that have distinctive characteristics. Many varie-
tal names we have passed unnoticed, because of their
insignificance, and because they are simply synonyms,
applied to increase the number of varieties for purposes
of sale, rather than to assist the gardener in a choice.
It is often the case that a given species or variety has
had several names given it, by different growers or col-
lectors, who supposed themselves the only possessors.
Wherever a name has been omitted the reader must rest
assured the variety or species is noticed under some other
name. For the sake of completeness we have noticed
many varieties that are not of great importance to a col-
lection, as will be seen by the notice we give of them.

L. auratum (Golden-rayed Lily of Japan).—This
species is very popular and well known. It is due to
the varieties to say that for the open border they are the
grandest of all Lilies. For floral decoration, or in any
arrangement of cut flowers, they do not compare at ali
favorably with many of the species. In a small room its
fragrance is overpowering and sickening, and soon after
cutting it has a somewhat wilted appearance. In the
garden it stands long without fading, and its fragrance

196 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

is not objectionable. The Z. awratum has disappointed
more of its admirers than almost any other Lily, because
of its failure to adapt itself to our soil and climate. Our
experience with these bulbs proves that they are not
hardy, in a sense that other Lilies are. They must be
protected, both against cold and standing water, both in
open soils, and where the water does not stand over
them during their periods of rest. When guarded at
all, in these points, they are as long-lived, and will grow
as vigorously as any other Lily. They are, moreover,
impatient of heat, and to be grown successfully they
should be in partial shade, and the ground covered in
summer with newly cut grass or some other suitable
mulch. The flowers of this species vary more in shape,
color and markings than any of the other Lilies, so
much so that some growers have selected a large number
with decided markings and forms, and have awarded
them varietal names. In growing large numbers, and
watching their habits closely, we do not think this prac-
tice warrantable, because the character of the flowers
depends so much upon the conditions of growth, that
under changed conditions they are not constant; that a
bulb which has given very large flowers this year, may
give inferior ones the next, and the reverse. We have
also noticed, in our selection from beds of those with a
red instead of the yellow band, that the color is not con-
stant, and the following year the band will again be
yellow.

There are, however, some distinct varieties, which
we shall notice in their order, from the seeds of which
the bulbs we receive from Japan are grown. ‘The seeds
from these varieties are undoubtedly cross-fertilized,
which will account for the vast number of forms and
colors we find among the imported bulbs. The same
law holds good with this Lily as with all other plants,
that where cross-fertilization has once been effected

LILy: 197

that marked variations will be noticeable in all future
generations.

The type reaches a height of from three to four feet,
bearing from four to twelve ivory-white flowers, with a
distinct central band of bright yellow, with numerous
deep purple spots; when fully expanded the flowers are
from eight to twelve inches across. When planted ina
deep, rich soil, the stalks often assume a fasciated form,
producing an immense number of flowers; the greatest
number we have ever seen on a single stem being one
hundred and twenty-six. Like all other monstrosities,
number is at the expense of beauty. What are known
to the trade as home-grown bulbs are greatly to be pre-
ferred to newly imported ones, which are apt to be taken
up before the; are fully ripened, besides losing much of
their vitality by long transit, in a dry state. All the
forms of L. auwratwm succeed admirably when grown in
pots, because then they are not likely to be injured by
frost, or from a surfeit of water.

Var. rubra vittatum.—This form differs from the
type by having a band of rich bright crimson, instead of
the yellow, and in the spots, which have a brighter tint.

Var. cruentum.—This is a dwarf form, bearing
large flowers, with a rather dingy maroon stripe, darken-
ing towards the center, with purplish-crimson spots.

Var. Emperor.—A grand flower, of good shape
and substance, with reddish spots and center.

Var. rubro-pictum.—When this flower first opens
it is very beautiful; the bright yellow band changes to
crimson at the ends of the petals; the spots are of the
same crimson tint.

Var. pictum.—Same as the last, excepting the tip
only, or lower end of the petal, being marked with
crimson. |
Var. virginale.—This is unquestionably the grand-
est of all the Z. auratum varieties, and if it were not

198 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

for its rarity, which greatly enhances its cost, all other
varieties would only be grown to make a collection
complete. In this flower there is no other color but pure
yellow and white; it is rarely spotted, the spots, when
present, being tinted with yellow; the petals are uni-
form, very heavy and papillose at the base of all the divis-
ions, giving it a beautiful crested appearance.

Var. Wittei.—This variety was introduced by E.
H. Krelage, who fancied he saw in it distinct characters
from those so pronounced in LZ. a. virginale; if such
there are, none but an expert could detect them.

L. avenaceum (Oat-like).—A native of the colder
parts of Japan, where there are about nine months winter
and three of exireme heat, yet it will not withstand the
rigors of northern winters without protection. It grows
about two feet high, producing from three to eight spot-
ted flowers, in general appearance resembling our native
Canadense species.

L. Batemanniz.—This is an exceptionally fine
Lily, growing, when properly treated, from three to four
feet high, bearing from six to twelve semi-cup shaped
flowers, unspotted, of a clear apricot color. It comes
into flower about July 20th, developing slowly and con-
tinuing a long time, the flowers remaining fresh until
they drop. Whether it is a true species or garden hybrid
is unknown. It is probably the former. Its cultivation
is the most simple, growing freely in almost any soil or
situation, increasing very rapidly by offsets. We should
place this among the best six for general cultivation,
both as regards effect and beauty. See upper flower in
the engraving, on Page 204.

L. Batisua.—A synonym of L. Wallichianum.

L. belladonna.—A variety described by Max
Leichtlin, from a drawing sent from this country. We
have seen this Lily in bloom in the garden of the late
P. Hanson, who claimed it as one of his seedlings, but

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co
¢c:

LEEY. i

BROWN’S LILY.

200 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

did not give its parentage. The stock is probably lost.
. bicolor.—A variety of L. elegans, Page 208.

. biligulatum.—A synonym of JL. elegans san-
anuinea. See Page 208.

. Bloomerianum.—See L. Humboldtii, Page 213.
. Bourgei.—A variety of LZ. pardalinum (219).
. brevifolium.—A variety of L. elegans, Page 209.
. Brownii.—Much confusion exists in regard to
the origin of this noble Lily. Some consider it a dis-
tinct type; other, and good authorities, too, say it is
identical with Z. japonteum. Certain it is, that a close
relation exists between the two, as well as with L. Col-
chesterii, and also L. Takesima. Many regard L. longi-
jflorum the parent of them ali. Whatever its parentage
may be, and from whatever source it may have derived
its name, there is no disputing the fact of its being one
of the grandest of Lilies) When properly managed, it
attains a height of four feet, bearing from two to four
flowers eight inches in length, pure ivory white inside,
and a rich chocolate brown on the outside of its petals.
The contrast in its colors, when first opened, is remark-
ably pleasing, and gives the flower an indescribable rich-
ness. This Lily is but little grown, from the mistaken
idea that it is difficult to manage, and because of its
high price, Neither reason should stand in the way of
its general cultivation. Its management is not at all
difficult, its requirements being a good rich soil, free
from stimulating manures; a situation where water does
not cover the ground at any time; and sure protec-
tion against frost. The bulbs increase rapidly, when
grown under these conditions, which soon renders cheap
a bed of rare flowers. These bulbs are impatient of rest,
out of ground, consequently long voyages are fatal to
them. Bulbs should be obtained directly from the
grower, and planted as soon as received ; it matters but
little as to season, preferring the period of rest for their

tek

Geb ake

LILY. 201

removal, as with all other Lilies. Frequent removals °
are injurious. So long as they flower well do not disturb
them. See Engraving on Page 199.

L. bulbiferum.—This species was known and
described by Parkinson in 1629, and from that day until
the present it has never had a fixed place in the family
of Lilies, and is known under a great variety of names.
LI. croceum and L. umbellatum being the more common
appellations. This confusion arises from the fact of its
name being misleading. Its name would imply bulb-
bearing at the axils of its leaves, as is the case with the
LL. tigrinum, the ordinary Tiger Lily, which it rarely, if
ever, does. Sometimes, if the flower-heads be removed
early in the season, small bulbs will form at the axils of
the leaves, but this is not sufficient to warrant its dis-
tinctive name. It is a native of Central Europe, grows
from two to three feet high, bearing an umbel of from
four to eight large, broad-petaled, cup-shaped flowers,
of arich, dark cherry red color, haying an orange blotch,
and a few black dots in the center. It is what might,
with considerable propriety, be termed hardy. It is a
strong, vigorous grower, very showy, and thriving under
nearly all circumstances.

L. Buschianum.—A variety of ZL. concolor.

L. californicum.—A variety of LZ. pardalinum.

L. callosum.—An early, small flowering Lily from
Japan, where its bulbs are grown, like those of JL. ¢i-
grinum, as an article of food; flowers are bright red,
produced in a raceme of from four to eight. A variety,
stenophyllum, from Eastern Siberia, is of a taller and
stronger habit. This variety closely resembles LZ. tenwi-
folium, but has not the same grace and brilliancy of
color.

L. canadense.—This is the species so common in
our meadows, and known as the Meadow Lily. It grows
from two to four feet high, bearing from one to ten

202 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

drooping, bell-shaped yellow flowers, shaded with orange.
Like all indigenous plants, it is easily grown, and capa-
ble of improvement by gvod cultivation. Its varieties
are :

Var. rubrum.—A strong grower, free flowering ;
color bright crimson, with small spots. In clumps,
under cultivation, it is exceedingly beautiful.

Var. favum.—This has the same general habit as
the foregoing; its flowers are bright yellow, slightly
tinged with crimson, and spotted with brown.

Var. parvum.—A form common im California,
growing from four to six feet high, and bears in a raceme
on long stalks, a great number of pendulous, small yel-
low dotted flowers, with broad, blunt petals; foliage in
whorls.

Var. parviflorum.—A form ciose:y resembling the
above, differing in its lower growth and smaller flowers.

Var. maritimum.—Is a small-flowered maritime
Lily, found in low, peaty meadows on the coast near
San Francisco. The flowers are deep reddish orange-
brown, spotted dark purple inside. Like most of the
California Lilies, this variety does not lke the Eastern
climate of America, and does not succeed weil there.

L. candidum.—This species is older than history,
as the first notice made of plants speaks of it as a ‘‘ well-
known plant.” It is the loveliest, as well as the oldest,
and if we were to have but.one Lily, Candidum would
be the one. As a garden flower the cultivation of
Candidum is most simple. It will thrive in any fairly
good soil, but to insure a free growth and a profusion of
flowers, the soil should be rich, deep and moist. - It is,
therefore, best to make suitable arrangements for the
bed by first selecting a favorable situation, and then put-
ting it in the most perfect condition by digging deep
and enriching thoroughly. Plantings should always -be
made in August, when the bulbs are at rest; very soon

SALA 203

thereafter they commence their autumn growth of leaves,
upon which, in a great measure, depends their next
season’s flowering. After planting, it is best to leave
them undisturbed so long as they bloom in a satisfactory
manner. Wm. Robinson, ef the Garden, says: ‘It is
one of the kinds that dislike coddling or being meddled
with, and thrives best when left undisturbed for years in
good garden soil. Any attempt to deal with it in the
same manner as with the more delicate ones, generally
results in failure.” In our climate, where we have such
extremes of weather during winter, with but little snow,
mulching, as recommended in our cultural instructions,
is an absolute necessity. Shaded, or partially shaded,
situations, are often recommended for Lilies, and, as a
rule, such are best; but for Candidum an open, sunny
position, where it can have a free circulation of air, is
preferable. Shelter from our cold, northerly winds is
desirable, as in much exposed places it often fails to
flower, owing to the destruction of the incipient flower-
buds, by frost in May. For directions for pot culture or
for forcing in the greenhouse, see cultural instructions,
Page 188. The varieties of Lilium candidum are:

Var. foliis aureo marginatis.—A form in which
a broad golden margin to the foliage prevails; very
beautiful for greenhouse culture. The flower is the
same, in all respects, as that of the species, excepting
that it is a clearer white with little less substance.

Var. striatum.—A form with fine purple streaks
running through flower and foliage. More singular
than beautiful.

Var. flore pleno (ZL. spicatum monstrosum).—An
abnormal form, the flowers being abortive, the leaves
assuming the character of a flower on the upper part of
the stalk. Except as a curiosity it is of no value.

Var. peregrinum.—A more slender growing form,
but little known or cultivated,

204 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS,

L. carniolicum.—A native of the Levant, Austria
and Lombardy. <A strong grower, stems rising from
two to three feet. Flowers appearing very early, last of
May or early in June; delightfully fragrant, color bright
orange-scarlet, spotted with black.

BATEMAN’S, AND THE CHALCEDONIAN LILY.

IL. carolinianum.—Allied to LZ. superbum, which
see.

L. Catesbzi.—A native of South Carolina and
Florida, with fine grass-like foliage and very slender
flower stalk. Flowers closely resembling L. philadelphi-

LILY. 205

cum ; it is very tender, will not endure even a Virginian
winter. Bulbs delicate, and impatient of removal. It
is cnly valuable in botanical collections.

L. cattaneze.—A variety of Z. Martagon, Page 216.

L. Chaixii.—A variety of LZ. crocewm, Page 206.

L. chalcedonicum.—A very old and handsome
Lily, rarely met in our gardens, from the fact of its not
being sufficiently hardy to survive our winter. With but
little care in protecting it, it would thrive with the same
luxuriance as LZ. candidum, and, like that species, it dis-
likes removals. In England this Lily grows from three
to four feet high, bearing several pendulous, vermilion-
red, turban-shaped flowers in July. With us it flowers
in June, and is well worth a place in every collection
(See lower flowers in engraving on opposite page).

Var. pyrenaicum.—A variety from the moun-
tains of Albania, is described by D. T. Fish as having
fiery red flowers, and by Dr. Wallace as having yellow
flowers. Mr. Fish refers to LZ. flavum, which he calls a
‘yellow beauty.” The two forms undoubtedly exist,
with a slight confusion in nomenclature.

L. citrinum.—A variety of L. elegans.

L. colchicum.—See L. monadelphum, Page 217.

L. columbianum.—A native of Oregon, growing
at a high elevation, in dry, sandy soil. It has a very
graceful form, growing from three to four feet high ;
flowers quite numerous, pendulous, and of a bright yel-
low color. It thrives much better East than most of the
Pacific Coast species.

L. concolor.—A very dwarf and beautiful species
from Japan. Its bulbs have a tendency to break up; a
bulb not more than an inch in diameter will frequently
throw up five or six stems; this will, in a measure, be
avoided by leaving the bulbs where planted for a number
of years. The plant grows from two to twelve inches
high, and produces from one to three crimson, erect,

206 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

star-shaped flowers, slightly spotted. Of this species we
notice the following varieties :

Var. Coridion.—In all respects like the species,
excepting that the flowers are a trifle larger, and of a rich
yellow color, slightly flaked with brown.

Var. sinicum.—A Chinese variety, growing from
two to three feet high, bearing from four to six larger
and more spotted flowers, from a somewhat larger bulb
than that of the species. But little known in this
country.

Var. pulchellum.—A Siberian variety, flowering
much earlier, growing from one and one-half to two feet
high, bearing a star-shaped crimson flower, very similar
to that of the species, but with narrower and smaller
petals.

Var. Buschianum.—Scarlet with black spots.

Var. Partheneion.—A form so closely allied to Z.
concolor, that a specific name should not have been
given it.

L. cordifolium (Heart-shaped).—This is strictly a
greenhouse plant, as it will not thrive out of doors; a
native of Japan, growing from five to ten feet high; in
flower it is one of the most majestic of all known Lilies.
The flowers are produced in racemes from fifteen to
twenty-four inches long, with from six to twelve flowers
in araceme. See also under Giganteum, Page 212.

L. Coridion.—See LZ. concolor, Page 200.

L. corymbifiorum.—A form of ZL. speciosum.

L. croceum (Orange).—This is an old and com-
mon inhabitant of our gardens, and one of the most
hardy. It is a native of the colder mountain districts of
Europe, and will thrive in almost any soil or situation.
It grows about two feet high, producing enormous heads
of large, rich orange-colored flowers. The introduction
of the Japanese species has nearly driven this Lily
from many of our gardens. ;

LILY. 30%

Var, Chaixii.—A rather pleasing form bearing but
one or two flowers on a spike, not more than fifteen
inches high. Not much cultivated.

Bermuda Lily.—A common name for ZL. longiflo-
rum, var. eximium, Pages 189 and 215.

L. cruentum.—A variety of L. speciosum.

L. dalmaticum.—A sub-variety of Z. Martagon.

L. Davidi.—A synonym of Partheneion, Paye 206.

L. davuricum.—This species resembles L. tudiflo-
“um, in its large, erect, open, bell-shaped flowers, which
are deep red, yellowish in the center, and dark spotted.
It is one of the most desirable of its class, flowering well
in partial shade. Like others nearly allied, this species
has many varieties, most of which are described under
other species.

Easter Lily.—A common name for L. longiflorum
eximium, formerly applied to L. candidum, Page 202.

L. elegans.—An early flowering Lily, and one of
the best for general cultivation, for early flowers and for
display. It was formerly sent out under the name of
L. Thunbergianum, which is now regarded as a sub-
variety of the species. It is a variable species, there
now being listed more than a score of varieties, and
probably as many sub-varieties. The type grows about
one foot high, with stout, erect stems, furnished with
numerous narrow leaves, and terminated with an umbel
of dark orange-red flowers, from five to six inches across.
Dr. Wallace, the celebrated authority on Lilies, has
made the following very excellent classification of the
varieties :

Group A.

Var. armeniacum ( venustwm).—One of the latest
flowering ; a rich vermilion orange-colored form, with-
out spots, known at once by its peculiar twisted foliage ;

it grows about one foot high.

208 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

Var. fulgens.—Also about one foot high, with
spotted, reddish flowers.

Var. fulgens flore pleno (staminatum). —'The
double form of the foregoing variety, remarkable more
as a curiosity than for its beauty.

Var. fulgens atrosanguineum.—This is really a
fine variety, being more robust in habit than the original
Fulgens, and of a deeper, rich blood-red tint.

Var. fulgens alternans.—A light tinted form of
Fulgens, suffused and flaked with lighter tints.

Var. sanguineum (d¢ligulatum).—An early form,
inclined somewhat to be cup-shaped in flower, but with
narrow petals; reddish-brown flower, with a few dark
spots.

Var. alutaceum.—Known under a great variety of
names by the Dutch growers; a very distinct dwarf
form, about six inches high, with rich apricot-colored
flowers, systematically spotted. A larger form of this is
known under the name Grandiflorum, with more robust
habit, and larger, richer colored flowers.

Var. Prince of Orange.—The most beautiful
spotted variety, of a soft, pleasing, light buff tint ; also
dwarf.

Group B.

Var. bicolor (pictuwm).—One of the handsomest of
the forms, but the petals are flimsy, and its beauties are
soon over; a stout-growing form, from one to two feet
high, bearing several large, broad-petaled, few-spotted,
slightly cup-shaped flowers, yellow tinted, but tipped
and splashed with crimson tints, and when quite tresh,
with a lilac sheen.

Var. aurantiacum verum.—This is a noble plant
and a distinct variety. Unfortunately, when we buy it,
it is not always as true as its name would indicate. We
consider it the peer of Excelsum; its flowers are large,

a)

LILY. 209,

well arranged, of excellent form, and of a clear
yellowish salmon color.

Var.marmoratum.—A very early form, broad-
petaled, of a deep, rich crimson color, flaked and tipped
with orange; spotted.

Var.marmoratum aureum.—Another very early
variety; more spotted than the last, the yellow pre-
dominating, with red margins.

Var. Alice Wilson.—This is decidedly the finest
Lily in this class, and rivals the Monadelphum in rich-
ness of color and general effect as a border plant. It
grows about two feet high, producing from three to
eight large, well-opened, finely-shaped flowers, of a
deep, clear lemon color, with small spots. Like all of
its class, it is easy to manage, and is readily increased
by offsets, a decided advantage.

Var. Maurii.—A very large flower, orange-crim-
son, heavily and distinctly spotted, and richly shaded.

Var. Van Houttei.—A richly tinted, deep scarlet
form, with a yellow blotch in the center, and sometimes
at the tip; broad-petaled; very beautiful, contrasting
grandly with the Alice Wilson.

Var. Horsmanni.—A deep blood-red, broad-pet-
aled form, spotted; one of the handsomest and most
richly tinted.

Group C.

Var. brevifolium.— Distinguished by its very
short, acutely-pointed, broad, thick leaves, only one
and one-half to two and one-half inches long; very
early flowering; flowers cup-shaped, and of a light
reddish tint, with a purplish gloss; spotted, tips flaked
with yellow.

Var. splendens.— This form, in its relation to the
species, is rightly named, growing two and one-half feet
high, with a stout stem, and L. umbellatum-like foliage ;

210 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

very light green, three inches long, having an umbel of
deeply-cupped, very large flowers, of a rich apricot yel-
low with purple spots. It is particularly desirable
because it is the earliest flowering variety in the group.

Var. Wilsoni (pardinwm).—A very desirable vari-
ety because of its being the latest to flower, thus keep-
ing up a succession. It is a strong grower, two feet
high, stem bronzed below, green above, the leaves quite
short, glossy, of a very deep green, ana curled down-
wards; the flowers very large, deeply cupped, apricot
tinted, with a broad yellow band down the center of the
petal.

We cannot dismiss the Elegans and Auratum species
without noticing the ease with which they are grown
from seed. The tendency to variation in form and
color, by cross-fertilization, has increased the number of
varieties to an almost unlimited extent. ‘This has offered
the growers a fine opportunity to gratify a verv natura.
desire to honor their friends by naming a flower to com-
memorate their memories, no less than the gratification
that comes from the production of a desirabie form,
which is to be known as the result of the labors of thei>
own hands, guided by their knowledge and skill in gar-
dening. However commendabie this zeal may be, it is.
liable to be overdone, working a real injury to the ama-
teur who does not detect sufficient variation in many
forms to entitle them to distinctive varietal names. In
those already noticed, the casual observer, or those who
desire Lilies simply for display, would not sanction more
than three or four distinct types, and he or they would |
very naturally think that these names were applied sim--
ply for purposes of sale. In a measure, this is true; in-
reality, not ; an enthusiast will always see more to admire
in any form, than an ordinary observer, and if the form
is a creature of his own head and hands his vision is’
doubly active. On the other hand, the beginner will take

Tity¥; 211

a highly recommended variety, and will, to his surprise,
find it will answer the description given, at least, to a
dozen other varieties of the same species; for that reason
we have omitted descriptions of very many desirable
named sorts.

L. excelsum (testaceum) (Isabellinum) —This is
a superb Lily, with a mixed history and a variety of
names. It has been generally supposed to be a hybrid be-
tween L. candidum and L. chalcedonicum. There is but
little evidence to support the theory, and it is said to
have first been seen in a bed of seedlings in Erfurt in
1846. Dr. Wallace says of it: “It has been thought not
to have a Japanese origin, because no bulbs of it have
ever been traced as coming over from the Islands of the
Western Sea, so productive of new and graceful forms;
but we have seen, more than once, in Japanese drawings
executed for us years ago by some of the best artists in
Yeddo [Tokio], of all the Liles of Japan, forms rep-
resented bearing a very strong resemblance to Excelsum.
It is true that among these Lilies there are some most
wonderful forms and gorgeous pieces of coloring, such ©
as would lead many to disbelieve in the veracity of
the artist; but, on the other hand, we can point to
other Lily forms which we know well, depicted therein
with fair accuracy, while the birds and insects portrayed
in some numbers, we recognize to have been truthfully
delineated. Our own conclusion is that, as yet, we have
scarcely touched the rich treasure of wonderful Lilies
which Japan will one day send to us.” Whatever may
have been the origin of Excelsum, how, or where, or
when it was born, makes but little difference, and does
not alter the fact that in grace, form, color and fra-
grance it has but few equals, and no superior in this
noble family of plants. It is, moreover, of easy culture,
succeeding best in a loamy soil and in a partially shaded
situation. It has often been asserted that this Lily had

212 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

a feeble constitution ; that under the most favorable cir-
cumstances it would soon die out. We are confident
this is a mistake, and the oft-repeated failures with it
have been the results of over-estimating its hardiness.
Another cause of failure arises from planting bulbs that
have been kept too long out of the ground ; in a dry state
they lose vitality very quickly. The stems grow from
three to five feet high, and produce from three to twelve
beautifully reflexed flowers of a rich buff color, delicately
spotted. In flowering, it follows soon after Candidum.

L. eximium.—See L. longiflorum, Page 215.

L. fulgens.—A form of L. elegans, Page 208.

L. giganteum.—This is a majestic plant, but like
L. cordifolium, it should not be classed with garden
Lilies, at least not in America. Its place is the
ereenhouse, where, with proper management, it is a
grand plant. As many attempts are made to grow this
plant, and usually without success, we quote Dr. Wal-
lace, regarding its character. ‘‘A peculiarity of this
species (and, we believe, of LZ. cordifolium aiso) is, that
seedling bulbs or offsets grow on, increasing in size, till
in a period of from three to five years a large bulb is
formed, in the case of L. gigantewm, from five to seven
inches in length, and ten to fifteen inches in diameter ;
hitherto the foliage has been broad and low growing ;
but when the bulb has attained the size mentioned, it
throws up in the spring a much thicker bud—by many
likened to a young cabbage—whence a stout stem arises,
sometimes six inches in diameter and from five to ten
feet high, studded with numerous flowers, resembling
somewhat the flowering spike of an Aloe, forming a
striking and beautiful object. In the meanwhile the
bulb, exhausted by the process, decays and disappears,
leaving from three to five small offsets, which, in due
course, increase in size, and, under favorable circum-
stances, repeat the performance. We should not have

LILY: 213

said so much in regard to this Lily, but for the fact that
it is quite as important to say what a plant will not do,
as well as what it will do.

L. Glehnii.—A variety of LZ. cordifolium, Page
206, but little cultivated.

L. Hansoni.—Named in honor of the late P. Han-
son, of Brooklyn, N. Y., an enthusiastic bulb grower,
by Max Leichtlin, one of the best authorities on Lilies.
A well defined species growing from two to four feet
high, foliage bright green, in whorls, producing from
four to twelve dark yellow flowers, remarkable for the
thickness of petal and wax-like appearance. It will
thrive as luxuriantly as the common Tiger Lily, and is
quite as hardy. It increases rather slowly, by offsets
and division; flowers in June. in every collection of
as many as twelve Lilies this should be included.

L. Horsmanni.—A variety of L. elegans, Page 209.

L. Humboldtii.—This is the most showy and
graceful, and the most useful of all the species found on
the Pacific coast. It adapts itself to our climate fairly
well. Like most of the California species, it wants to
grow during our winter, and rest during our summer ;
yet we have had it do well enough to warrant having it
in a general collection. If the situation is favorable,
such as partial shade and a deep, rich soil, it will grow six
feet high, producing from thirty to forty flowers, bright
orange-red, spotted with black. Disappointment will
surely follow the growing of this Lily, unless it is thor-
oughly protected against frost. There is but one vari-
ety, Ocellatum, which is not as vigorous a grower as the
species; it has larger flowers, the spots of which are sur-
rounded with a yellow circle; it is a distinct form, but
little known.

L. isabellinum.—A synonym of Z. excelsum.

L. jama-jure.—The Japanese name for L. Take-
sima.

214 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

L. japonicum.—A synonym for LZ. Kramert.

L. jocundum.—A synonym of L. pseudo-tigrinum.

L. Kretzeri.—A variety of L. speciosum album.

L. Krameri.—In habit this form resembles a
small-growing L. auratum ; a more graceful or pleasing
Lily is rarely met. It is a native of the mountains of
Japan, although often referred to as a Japanese hybrid.
It is a delicate, low-growing form, producing from one
to five blush-white, varying to clear pink, flowers, some-
what of the form of Auratum, and very fragrant. It
will grow well in all dry soils, with ample protection
against frost.

L. lancifolium.—A synonym of L. elegans, Page
207, also of LZ. speciosum, Page 222.

L. Ledebourii.—A variety of LZ. monadelphum.

L. Leichtlinii.—A most beautiful species, in habit
resembling L. tigrinum, growing from three to five feet
high, bearing from ten to thirty clear yellow, drooping
flowers, with small black spots. It is a free grower, pro-
duced rapidly from seed. It has a habit peculiar to
itself, its shooting stem often running along a foot or
more beneath the soil before making its appearance ;
care should be taken in digging about the bed until the
stems have had sufficient time to appear above ground.

L. Leichtlinii majus.—Properly known as L.
pseudo-tigrinum, Page 221.

L. Lishmanni.—Included in Z. tigrinwm.

L. longiflorum.—It is one of the most beautiful
and valuable Lilies for the open border, as well as the
one mostly employed for forcing. The typical form
grows about two feet high, the stems being terminated
with from one to eight long, tubular, waxy-white flow-
ers, intensely fragrant. There are several varieties of
this Lily, one of which, eximiwm, for a few years,
seemed to be the only one used for forcing by the florists.
Many of the best growers have, of late, discarded it, and

LILY. 215

are again using the type for forcing for the cut flower
trade. They find the flowers of the longiflorum have
more substance than those of the eximiwm (Bermuda
Lily, See Page 189), and are not so liable to be injured
in handling and carrying. Besides, the flowers are not
so large, which, in many kinds of floral work, is a point
in their favor. For methods of forcing, see Page 191.
The varieties of LZ. longiflorum are as follows:

Var. eximium.—This is characterized by its flowers
appearing at right angles with the stem, by its larger
and more numerous flowers, and by its earliness, coming
into bloom about two weeks earlier than the type. This
is the one known in the trade as the Bermuda Lily, and
because of its many flowers, it was also sent out as L.
floribundum. It is also called Easter Lily, Page i94.

Var. Takesima.—This is a distinct variety, and

may be readily distinguished by its purplish stems, and
a violet tint on the outside of the flower, which shows
very plainly in the unopened bud, but is not noticed
after the flower is fully developed.
3 Var. Wilsonii.—This is the grandest of all the
varieties for the open border, or for a specimen plant in
the greenhouse; it grows nearly four feet high, corres-
pondingly strong, bearing from four to eight flowers,
well opened, about nine inches in length.

Var. Madame Von Siebold.—We have not seen
this flower, but from descriptions, should regard it a
synonym of L. J., var. Wilsoniz. It is claimed, however,
that there isa difference in the size and shape of the
flower.

L. lucidum.—A native of Oregon and Washington,
introduced by Mr. Kellogg, It seems an intermediate
form between L. superbum and L. canadense. We do
not think there is more difference between them than
the difference in climate would make, that when grown
on the Atlantic coast a few years it would have ali the

216 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

characteristics of Z. canadense, and that if the latter
were grown in Oregon it would assume the form of L.
lucidum.

L. macrophyllum.—A species too little known to
warrant a description, or to be recommended for culti-
vation. It is found in Cashmere. Said to be very beau-
tiful and fragrant.

L. Mad. Von. Siebold.—See L. longiflorum (215).

L. maritimum,—See L. canadense, Page 201.

L. marmoratum.—See L. elegans, Page 209.

L. Martagon (The Turk’s Cap Lily).—This old
inhabitant of the garden is a plant we could do very well
without. The type has no real beauty. It grows about
three feet high, bearing numerous flowers of pleasing
shape, but of a dull, lifeless color. See Page 176.

Var. album.—A_ beautiful flower, pure white,
small, but very graceful. See Page 176.

Var. dalmaticum.—The grandest of the group,
and having but few superiors in the genus. Under
favorable circumstances it will grow six feet high, and
yield an enormous number of beautifully reflexed flowers,
of a shining blackish-purple. The home of all the
Turk’s Cap Lilies is in England. At Wares’ nursery,
Tottenham, we saw these Lilies growing so grandly that
we scarcely recognized them, and supposed them to be
new varieties. Our summers’ sun and winters’ cold do
not agree with these forms, and to have them approach
perfection they need a heavy mulching in winter, and a
light one, with partial shade, in summer.

Var. Cattaneze.—A synonym of Dalmaticum.

Var. hirsutum.—This is a strong growing form
with hairy stems.

Var. glabrum.—A synonym of Martagon album.

L. Maurii.—A variety of L. elegans, Page 209.

L. Maximowiczii.—A synonym of LZ. pseudo:
tigrinum, Page 221.

LILY. 21?

L. medeoloides.—A Japanese form, with the habit
of LZ. concolor and L. pulchellum. Itis a very difficult
subject to manage from imported bulbs, which are so
small, and with such delicate, thin scales, that they
easily perish. A good stock can only be procured in
this country by growing them from seeds.

L. Melpomene.—A seedling form from Z. speci-
osum rubrum, to which it is referred.

L. Michauxii.—A synonym of ZL. carolinianum.

L. monadelphum.—tThis truly magnificent Lily
has had a difficult time in establishing its name. From
time to time it has appeared under several names, and
various varieties have appeared under its name. The
chief difference in the varieties being, that some are
spotted, others plain, and that some have larger flowers
than the type. ‘These variations will be noticed in the
varieties. In the open border the Monadelphum grows
from two to three feet high, with a terminal cluster of
from six to twenty turban-shaped flowers, ranging in
color from a rich canary-yellow to a pale lemon-yellow.
This Lily and its varieties are of Asiatic origin; all suc-
ceed well in rich soil, in partial shade, where water does
not stand. It may be well to state here, that our descrip-
tion of forms is as they are grown and appear in America;
that the same forms described in other countries are
from the standpoint of their appearance there, and the
differences between the two are very great. In the open
border the English-grown Lilies far surpass ours, as we
usually grow them, while our greenhouse specimens far
surpass theirs. So much for climatic influences. The
following are the varieties of Monadelphum:

Vars. colchicum, Szovitsianum, Loddigesia-
num.—These are strictly synonyms, rather than varie-
ties, neither having any distinctive character not pos-
sessed by the others, that the difference in culture and
situation will produce any variation noticeable in form

218 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

or color. In any ordinary collection any one of the vari-
eties will satisfactorily represent tbe species.

Var. Ledebourii.—A more dwarf growing variety,
noticed by Dr. Wallace; but very little is known of the
plant.

L. neilgherrense.—This magnificent Lily is a
native of India, and is called, by Mr. Fish, an Indian
example of LZ. longiflorum. He says, ‘‘It is a native of
the higher altitudes of the Neilgherries, about eight
thousand feet above the sea level. The stem is stout
and strong, rising in height from two to three feet; the
leaves are more numerous, and broader than in Z. elegans
(lancifolium). The flowers average from five to seven on
a plant, measuring from eight to twelve inches in length,
are deliciously fragrant, the prevailing color being white,
tinged with primrose.” This form is but very little
known in this country.

L. nepalense.—A name not unfrequently noticed
in foreign catalogues, but a plant not known to be grown
in Europe. A native of the Himalayas.

L. odorum.—This noble form is figured, and de-
scribed by Mrs. Bury in ‘‘Hexandrian Plants,” under
the name of L. japonicum, as follows: “ L. gaponicum
is a larger, and may, perhaps, be designated a coarser,
plant, than L. candidum or L. longiflorum, to both of
which it is nearly allied. The purple markings on the
back, together with the tinge of Limeric-tan color dif-
fused through the petals, especially on their first expan-
sion, give a charming richness of appearance, which is
enhanced by the deep shade of the firm hollow bells, and
massive looking pistils and stamens.” If Mrs. Bury’s
illustration is accurate, and her book is high authority,
this species is identical with LZ. Colchestert. Certainly
the difference between it and LZ. Brownz is but slight.

L. pallidifolium.—A variety of LZ. pardalinum.

L. pardalinum (The Panther Lily).—The most
showy and useful of the Lilies from California, and one

LILY. 219

of the few that adapts itself to the Atlantic climate, and
thrives with all the luxuriance of a native plant. It
grows from four to six feet high, bearing from four to
ten drooping flowers, of a brilliant orange-red color, not
unlike some of the brighter forms of Superbum. We
note the following varieties :

Var. Bourgzi.—The strongest growing and best
of its class. It attains a height of seven feet, and gives
from twenty to thirty flowers, which appear about two
weeks later than the species; in form and color there is
not a marked difference between the two. They are
alike easy of culture.

Var. pallidifolium.—A small-growing form, with
lighter colored flowers.

Var. Robinsoni.—Has the same general habit as
Bourgei; foliage more full and heavy, flowers bright
vermilion, shading to yellow in the center, and thickly
spotted.

Var. californicum.—lIdentical with the type when
grown under the same circumstances.

L. pardinum.—A synonym of ZL. Wilsoni, of
group ‘‘C,” in Elegans, Page 210, to which it belongs.

L. Parryi.—This is decidedly the foremost of the
Californian Lilies when placed in congenial soil and cli-
mate. We have grown this Lily largely and with much
satisfaction, but we are free to admit that we knew noth-
ing of its beauty and capabilities until we saw it at
Ware’s nursery, Tottenham, England. There it was in
perfection, growing fully five feet high, bearing several
flowers of immense size, fully as large as Longiflorum,
and of the most beautiful form and color, a rich canary-
yellow, finely spotted. In fact, we did not know the
Lily when shown to us, with a request for our opinion.
Fortunately, the label saved us from showing our ignor-
ance, if it did not our surprise. Then, more than ever,
we wanted to say to every one in America, ‘‘if you want

220 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

Lilies that will honor the name, keep the frost away
from them.”

L. Partheneion. —A variety of JL. concolor,
Page 206.

L. parvum.—A variety of L. canadense, Page 202.

L. peregrinum.—A variety of JL. candidum,
Page 203.

L. philadelphicum.—A species common to the
Northeastern States, growing from one to one and one-
half feet high, bearing from one to three upright flowers,
orange-red spotted with black. This species is quite indif-
ferent to cultivation, and does‘not thrive as well as when
in its native woods and fields. It contrasts well with
the grass and native wood plants, but poorly in the gar-
den surrounded with higher floral forms.

Var. Wausharaicum.—Rather a stronger. form,
with brighter colors, owing, probably, to more favorable
natural conditions.

Var. grandiflorum.—Sent out by some dealers,
and said to be much larger and more floriferous, growing
from four to five feet high, producing from six to ten
flowers in an umbel, of an intense vermilion-red.

L. phillippinense.—A species but little known,
described as growing about two feet high, and bearing a
solitary flower remarkable for its sweetness. ; trumpet-
shaped, white; stem and foliage very light. Not in
cultivation.

L. polyphyllum.—A Himalayan species, growing
from two to four feet high, and having large turban-
shaped flowers of a waxy-white color, copiously spotted
and lined with purple. Not in general cultivation.

L. pomponium.—Another species about which
there is no little confusion in regard to description. In
fact, there are two distinct forms bearing the same name.
William Robinson, of the Garden, has cleared away
much of the mist that has enclouded its reputation, as’

LILY. 221

follows: ‘‘This lovely Lily must not be confounded
with the L. pomponium, usually sold as such; this latter
being simply the red variety of L. pyrenaicum. L. pom-
pontum is elegant in growth, possesses a vigorous con-
stitution, and blooms earlier than the numerous varieties
of L. chalcedonicum and L£. pyrenaicum, to which it is
related. It grows about three feet in height, is of erect
habit, and has long linear leaves. The flowers are pro-
duced in a lax raceme, one foot through, and a well
established plant will bear as many as twenty flowers.
It is a native of the Maritime Alps.” The variety, py-
renaicum, is a similar, but smaller plant, with small
yellow flowers. A native of the Pyrenees, as its name
would imply. The variety, albanwm, is an Iberian form,
like the yellow »yrenaicum, but with a little larger leaves,
and pollen of a different color; the odor is sweet, like
that of honey, whereas the savor of the garden form is
rather nauseous. All the varieties are easily grown in
the open border, increasing quite rapidly.

L. ponticum.—See L. M. Szovitsianwm, Page 217.

L. Prince of Orange.—A variety of L. elegans,
Page 208.

L. pseudo-tigrinum.—This form has had some
little difficulty in keeping a name, having been sold as
L. Fortunei, and. later, in fact, now, as L. Maximowiczti.
It is, in every respect excepting color, identical with
L. Leichtlinii, growing from four to five feet high, bear-
ing from six to twelve light red flowers, with numerous
small black spots. It is variable in the form, as well as
in the color of its flowers; some of the stems are quite
downy, others smooth. The color of the flowers seems
to be somewhat governed by the character of the soil in
which it grows. It is propagated readily from seed, as
well as by offsets. A peculiar feature of this Lily is the
length of time it continues in bloom, a strong plant
remaining in flower for upwards of four weeks.

222 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

L. puberulum.—A synonym of Pallidifolium, a
variety of L. pardalinum, Page 218.

L. pulchellum.—A variety of L. concolor, Page 206.

L. pumilum.—A synonym of JL. callosum, Page
201.

L. punctatum.—A variety of several species, but
best known as belonging to L. specioswm, to which it is
referred.

L. puniceum.—A synonym of L. tenuifolium.

L. pyrenaicum.—See L. pomponium, Page 221.

L. Robinsonianum.—A variety of L. pardalinum,
Page 218. -

L. Roezlii.—A synonym of Angustifolium, a vari-
ety of pardalinum, Page 218.

L. sinicum.—See under Concolor, Page 206.

L. speciosum.—As a whole, this species of Lilies
far surpasses any other species of herbaceous plants, for
the garden, or for the greenhouse. Among Lilies there
are none to compare, excepting L. candidum, which has
no peer. By common consent, Speciosum was regarded
the species; all other forms were varieties. This mat-
ters not, so long as it is so understood, that we do not
get the varieties mixed. So in our descriptions we shall
consider Speciosum a type, notwithstanding the fact
that, when introduced by Dr. Siebold, it referred to
what is now considered L. s. rubrum. |

The extreme beauty of the Speciosum species has
tempted the growers to multiply varieties to an almost
unlimited extent ; far beyond the limit of reason, to say
the least, as names have been given plants for differences
that exist only in the imagination. One dealer lists
thirty-four varieties, four times as many as the most
enthusiastic admirer could find, uninfluenced by the
hope of gain. We shall note such varieties as have some
individual features that commend them to the reader,
in whose interest this book is written.

SPECIOSUM LILY. 223

LILIUM SPECIOSUM RUBRUM.

224 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

Var. rubrum.—This was the first introduction,
and was figured in Paxton’s Magazine of Botany for
January, 1838, and described, in part, as follows: “A
most magnificent species of Lily; ‘not only handsome’
(as Dr. Lindley observed, in the Botanical Register,
Page 2,000) beyond all we before knew in gardens
(among Lilies), on account of the clear, deep rose-color
of its flowers, which seem all rugged with rubies and
garnets, and sparkling with crystal points, but it has
the sweet fragrance of the Petunia.” Much confusion
exists in regard to the variety names, some dealers call-
ing it Rubrum, others Roseum, many sending it out
under both names. Having grown many thousands of
the supposed different varieties, we have never been
uble to note sufficient difference in color to warrant the
two names. It is true, that in a bed of either, one will
find some darker, some lighter, the cause of which seems
to us to be, that it is a seedling and intermediate between
Purpuratum and Punctatum. As the former is truly
represented by the colored illustration in Pazton’s Mag-
azine of Botany, and the one we designate as true
Rubrum, while the latter is also figured in the same vol-
ume, and is as perfect an illustration of the flower as it is
possible for the lithographic art to produce, and it is there
called Roseum (synonym Punctatum). Therefore the
variety sold as Purpuratum might, with propriety, be
called Rubrum. Punctatum was, from its introduction,
called Roseum. Seedlings from these varieties would
very naturally produce, not only the two varieties under
consideration, but many others that have been honored
with varietal names. See Engraving, Page 223.

Var. roseum (syn. punctatum).—Paxton describes
this as follows: ‘‘In the exquisite loveliness of its flow-
ers, their superior size, and the stronger and more robust
habits of the plant, this charming variety almost outvies
the splendid species (LZ. speciosum). 'The dazzling bril-

SPECIOSUM LILY. 225

liancy of hue for which the species just mentioned is so
deservedly admired, alone maintains its ascendency, for
in every other respect our present subject is decidedly
unequalled.” ‘This certainly described Punctatum as we
have it, and as it was first called Roseum, we can see no
reason for its later appellation.

Var. album.—This is a pure white form; except-
ing in color, it is well described in var. rubrum.

Var. preecox.—This differs from the above, in havy-
ing its pure white petals slightly tinged with pink, in
being a stronger grower, producing, when well estab-
lished, twelve to fifteen flowers on a single stem; the
petals are regular and much reflexed, often clasping the
stem ; in the center of the flower the petals are studded
with delicate little projections, like crystal points. Of
it there seem to be several so-called varieties. One has
yellow anthers instead of brown; in other respects they
are identical. Seedlings from this or the foregoing
white form are as numerous as are those of the spotted
varieties, which makes the nomenclature of this group
decidedly uncertain.

Var. vestale.—A synonym of var. album.

Var. punctatum.—A synonym of var. rosewm.

Var. macranthum.—A synonym of var. rubrum.

Var. melpomene.—A seedling variety raised by the
late C. M. Hovey, of Boston. It is somewhat darker
than true Rubrum, but by no means an improvement on
the type. Mr. Hovey was quite successful in growing
the L. speciosum from seed, and at one time had, of his
own production, varieties named for each of the Muses;
but with the exception of Melpomene, none are in
existence.

Vars. monstrosum, of Album, Rubrum and Punc-
tatum, are simply fasciated forms, unworthy a place in
the garden, excepting for the curiosity there is in mon-
strosities. There is an interesting feature in these fas-

1d

226 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

ciated forms worthy of notice. We find, in good rich
soil, and with good cultivation, these forms invariably
revert back to the type after one or two years.

Var. corymbiflorum.—A synonym for the varie-
ties of Monstrosum. ‘These varieties include all that
have any distinctive traits; other varieties listed in cata-
logues present only such differences as may be seen
with any of the varieties, when grown under different
conditions.

L. spectabile.—A synonym of ZL. Catesbei,
Page 204.

L. splendens.—A variety of ZL. elegans, Page 209.

L. stenophyllum.— A. variety of ZL. callosum,
Page 201.

L. superbum.—Our common Swamp Lily; were
it not common it would receive the attention it so
richly deserves. In its native habitat, we have known a
specimen ten feet high with sixty-three flowers. As a
rule, it grows from four to six feet high, with from four
to twelve flowers. It is a splendid plant to grow among
shrubbery. In such situations the ground should be
mulched heavily to keep it moist, and clumps from six
to eight feet high, bearing an immense number of orange-
red flowers tipped with bright crimson, will be the re-
sult. These noble plants, lifting themselves far above
the Rhododendrons and Azaleas, have a majestic appear-
ance. ‘The variety carolinianum is described as an inter-
mediate form between Superbum and Canadense; it is
but little known. We do not think that any of our
native Lilies, as cultivated, are very well known in other
countries, judging from the following, which we take.
from Dr. Wallace’s notes on Lilies. In speaking of the
Superbum, he says: ‘‘A very valuable, late, graceful
Lily, in growth so like Canadense, that it is difficult to
distinguish them, except by means of the immature
flower buds, which are rounded in Superbum, but trian-

om

LEnY. 227%

eular in Canadense. Properly an eastern (indigenous
American) form, but stretching westward, and inter-
mingling with the western varieties, so that it becomes
difficult to separate the intermediate forms.” In the
cultivated forms there is as wide a difference between
these two species as there is between either of them and
the Martagons. The Superbum grows twice as high,
has double the number of flowers, which have their
petais so much reflexed that they clasp the stems, while
those of the Canadense are always bell-shaped, and the
buds of the former are quite as angular as are those of
the latter.

L. Szovitszianum.—A synonym of L. monadel-
phum, Page 217.

L. Takesima.—A variety of LZ. longiflorum,
Page 215.

L. tenuifolium.—tThe earliest of all our garden
Lilies, and one of the most desirable, because of its bril-
hant scarlet flowers, produced in a raceme of from one
to twenty, on very slender stems, which are beautifully
clothed with grass-like foliage. A native of Siberia,
where it is largely grown as an article of food. It is
quite tender, and needs a dry soil and protection against
frost; see Page 175. It is rapidly increased from seed.

L. testaceum.—A synonym of JL. excelsum,
Page 211. .

L. Thompsonianum.—This is now classed with
the Fritillarias, Page 92.

L. Thunbergianum.—A synonym of J. elegans,
Page 207.

L. tigrinum (Tiger Lily).—This is one of our
earliest contributions from China, having been intro-
duced with Longifloruam in 1804. It is, when well
grown, one of the most noble and showy of all the spe-
cies, and well worthy a place in every collection. The
type grows about four feet high, and, in good soil, will

228 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

produce from ten to fifteen bright scarlet flowers, with
numerous small black spots. Notwithstanding its stately
form and gorgeous display, it is classed with weedy plants,
because of its rapid increase and ease of cultivation ;
whereas, in gardens of any considerable extent, it should
have a prominent place and be confined to it.

Var. flore pleno (Double Flowering Tigrinum),—
A magnificent plant, reaching a height of six feet, with
a diameter of more than three feet, bearing, in a season,
more than sixty flowers; continuing in bloom more
than six weeks.

Var. splendens.—1]n a rich soil and partially shaded
situation, will grow to the height of six feet, producing
an immense number of flowers in a pyramidal cluster.

Var. Maximowiczii.—Sometimes sold under the
name of L. Fortunei, and is often called a variety of L.
Leichtlinii, Page 214; flowers a light orange-red, with
small black dots. This differs from the species in not
haying axillary bulblets. It is a very showy plant, flow-
ering in August, and is increased rapidly from seed.
All the varieties of Tigrinum, excepting this, are rapidly
increased from the axillary bulbs, which should be
planted as soon as they drop; they make bulbs that
flower the second year.

L. umbellatum.—A synonym of L. bulbiferum,
Page 201.

L. Van Houttei.—A variety of JL. elegans.

L. venustum.—A variety of ZL. elegans, Page 207.

L. Wallacei.—A very showy lily, but whether a
distinct species or a garden hybrid is a question not yet
decided. It is of easy culture, increasing rapidly, and
flowering most profusely. In form it is intermediate
between Maximowiczii and Concolor. The flowers are
vermilion-orange, spotted at the base and center with
numerous slightly raised small maroon spots; it is one
of the latest flowering sorts.

LILY. 229

-L. Wallichianum.—A native of the Himalayas,
in form and color closely resembling Longiflorum ; the
flowers are not as regular in form, nor of as much sub-
stance; neither is it nearly as hardy, and can only be
successfully grown in the greenhouse.

L. Wausharicum.—A variety of Philadelphicum,
Page 220.

L. Washingtonianum.—One of the native Amer-
ican species growing freely in the Californian woods ;
the flowers are white tinged with purple, produced in
clusters on stems from two to five feet high. This spe-
cies is a very difficult one to manage in the Atlantic
states; 1t does not at all conform to the change of sea-
sons, and strives to grow and flower during the same
months as it does in its native home. With thorough
protection we have had it do fairly well, but in the At-
lantic States it will succeed well only when grown under
glass, for which purposes there are many more desirable
kinds. The variety purpureum is a lower growing
form, seldom reaching two feet in height, with violet or
nearly white flowers, borne in erect umbels. There is
the same difficulty in growing the variety as with the
species.

Lilies for the Garden.—We are often asked what
varieties will give the best satisfaction planted in the
open border. We reply by giving the following selec-
tion, and should take them in the order named: 1 Can-
didum, 2 Speciosum Rubrum, 3 Speciosum Pracox, 4
Excelsum, 5 Brownii, 6 Hansonii, 7 Tenuifolium, 8 Ele-
gans—var. Alice Wilson, 9 Leichtlinii, 10 Speciosum
Roseum (Punctatum), 11 Longiflorum Eximium, 12 An-
ratum, 13 Tigrinum Flore Pleno, 14 Martagon Dalmati-
cum, 15 Pseudo-Tigrinum, 16 Monadelphum, 17 Su-
perbum, 18 Tigrinum Splendens, 19 Elegans Bicolor,
20 Coridion, 21 Pardalinum, 22 Batemanniz, 23 Cana-
dense, 24 Concolor Sinicum, 25 Wallacei. Few persons

230 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

will care to have so large a number of sorts, and those
who wish a limited number will be pleased by commenc-
ing with Number 1, and continuing down the list until
their desires are satisfied. The first three, six or twelve
will give sufficient variety and contrast for small, or
for moderately large gardens.

LILY OF THE VALLEY.
See Convallaria, Page 61.
LOCHIERA.
A section of the genus Achimenes, Page 1.
LYCORIS.

A small genus of greenhouse bulbs allied to Nerine
and Griffinia, natives of Eastern Asia. The name of
Lycoris is that of a Roman actress, celebrated for her
extravagance and her beauty. The flowers of some of
the species are very beautiful, and remarkable for their
rich golden color. ‘They bloom in autumn, the flowers
preceding the foliage, as do those of Amaryllis Bella-
donna, Page 12. After flowering, the plants should
have every encouragement for growth of foliage, as it is
upon this that the flowering of another season depends.
After the leaves have perfected their growth, dry the
bulbs off, and during their period of rest they must
remain in the pots dry and warm.

L. aurea (Golden Lily).—The most beautiful of
Lhe species, having bright yellow flowers, in August.

L. radiata.—Has dingy crimson flowers, in July.

L. staminea.—Has striped flowers, in June.

MARIPOSA LILY.
See Calochortus, Page 49.
MASSONTA.

A small genus of Cape bulbs allied to Eriospermum.
They are of little value.

MELANTHIUM—MERENDERA—MILLA. 231

MEADOW SAFFRON.
See Colchicum, Page 59.
MELANTHIUM.

A small genus of early spring flowering bulbs, some-
what resembling the Ixias, Page 166, and requiring the
same general treatment, being natives of the Cape of
Good Hope.

M. junceum (The Rush-leaved Melanthium).—
This is a very beautiful little Cape plant, with flowers
like a small Ixia. The flowers are stained within with
dark crimson spots, nearly black, and hence the name of
the genus, which signifies black flowers. The propaga-
tion is by offsets.

M. uniflorum.—This has but one flower, as its
name implies. Neither of the species are worth
cultivating.

MERENDERA.

The best known species, WM. caucasica, is a pretty
little plant, differing from the Colchicums, Page 59, by
the leaves and flowers appearing at the same time, and
should be treated in the same manner.

MILLA.

This is a much abused bulb. Having been included
in the genus Triteleia, where it does not belong, and the
specific name, biflora (two-flowered), entirely misrepre-
senting its character. It has, moreover, been repre-
sented as difficult to manage, when, in fact, it can be
grown as easily, and more satisfactorily, than almost
any of our summer-flowering bulbs. Our experience
with the Milla has been as follows: When it was first
sent here from Mexico we procured a large quantity of
the bulbs, which were about the size of small crocus
corms, or even smaller; these grew rapidly, and we soon
saw that the name dzflora did not belong to a plant pro-

232 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

ducing four flowers on a single scape, nor to a bulb that
produced two or more scapes, as most of these bulbs did.
Soon after the first hard frost the bulbs were taken up
and put about two inches deep in ordinary flats, which
were placed in racks in the Gladiolus room. There they
remained until the following spring. ‘To our surprise,

MILLA.

the crocus-sized bulbs we had planted were, when taken
up, as large as good-sized Gladiolus corms, or about two
inches in diameter. ‘These were planted at the same
time as the Gladiolus, and in the same manner, early in
May. They commenced to bloom early in July, and

MILLA—MONTBRETIA, 233

notwithstanding the excessive drouth of that season, the
plants were in constant bloom until killed by frost late
in October. The larger bulbs threw up ten flower stalks
each, and in many instances there were eight flowers on
a single scape or stalk, and not infrequently three were
open at a time. We do not know a more satisfactory
bulb than this, as it is constantly in flower for more
than three months in the summer, with as little trouble
as the Gladiolus, and delights in dry, sunny weather,
which, in our climate, it can usually have in abundance.
It increases rapidly by offsets, or from seed, the bulbs
from which will flower the second year.

M. biflora.—The only species; flowers pure white,
star-shaped, with a greenish-white tube three to five
inches in length. For the best effect in the garden, the
bulbs should be planted alternately with the Bessera
elegans (Page 42), about four inches apart each way;
the effect produced by the contrast of color, scarlet and
white, is most charming. The two plants possess the
same graceful habit of growth, and are uniform in
height. See engraving of flowers on Page 232.

MISSOURI HYACINTH.
A synonym of Camassia Frasert, Page 52.

MONTBRETITA.
Tritonia.

A small genus of Iridaceous plants from the Cape
uf Good Hope, most of which are half-hardy, and require
the same treatment as other summer flowering bulbs.
The genus is closely allied to the Ixia (Page 166), and is
now generally included with the Tritonia.

M. Pottsii (Properly Tritonia Pottsti).—The best
of the species, somewhat resembling the Gladiolus, and
perfectly hardy. The flowers are borne in spikes from
six to nine inches long; they are bright yellow, streaked
on the outside with brick-red.

234 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

POTTS’ MONTBRETIA OR TRITONIA,

MOR A—MUSCARI. 235

The name Montbretia would hardly be retained but
for the hybrid form, Montbretia crocosmiflora, a cross
between M. Pottsit and Crocosmia aurea, a very showy
and free-flowering plant that succeeds admirably in the
garden, producing its long, many-flowered panicles of
orange-scarlet flowers from July until killed by frost.
While this is a desirable plant for the open garden, its
usefulness stops there. The flowers quickly fade if used
in a vase, and the buds do not open. But as a garden
ornament it is exceedingly valuable. While this is
classed with the hardy bulbs, it does not belong there;
it should be taken up and kept in dry sand, free from
frost, during winter. It increases rapidly from offsets.

MORIA.

This genus was formerly included with the Iris, the
flowers of which bear a close resemblance; they are very
beautiful, but of short duration and little substance.
All the species are tender, but succeed well when grown
in pots, ina light sandy loam. They thrive with ordi-
nary greenhouse culture, but the plants require frequent
syringing to keep them free from red spider. They
flower from April to July, according to species, after
which, when the leaves wither and dry down, they
should remain dry and warm until the following Febru-
ary, when they should be re-potted and started into
growth again. Viesseuxia and the Peacock Iris, I.
pavonia (tridoides), Page 161, are now included in this
genus. MM. Sisyrinchium is the only species that is worth
the room required in the greenhouse to growthem. This
is a native of Spain; the flower is very handsome, deep
blue, white and yellow.

MUSCARLI.

This is a large genus of perfectly hardy bulbs, with
a great variety of popular names, such as Musk, Grape,

236 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

and Feathered Hyacinth. They grow freely anywhere.
Some of the species have escaped from the gardens and
have become naturalized, and grow with all the vigor of
native plants. All they require is to be once planted ;

they will then take care of themselves, and increase rap-
idly. The more valuable of the species are :

M. botryoides (Grape Hyacinth). This is the
most commonly grown and finest of the species. The
flower-spikes are from two to three inches in length,
resembling a bunch of grapes, colors pure white and
dark blue; they have a peculiar fragrance, which has
given the species the popular name of ‘‘ Baby’s Breath.”

M.comosum (Tufted Hyacinth).—A very showy
species.

M.c. monstrosum (The Feathered Hyacinth).—
It is also known by the trade as Muscari plumosus
monstrosum.

M. moschatum.—This, the common Musk Hya-
cinth, receives its name by the strong smell of musk
which the flowers possess. ‘The flowers are purple when
they first expand, but gradually become yellowish. It
is a native of Turkey.

There are a great number of species and varieties,
but those noticed well represent the genus. They are
easily grown and rapidly increase by offsets.

NARCISSUS.
Daffodil.

The florists who have made the Narcissus a hobby,
have driven farther and faster for varieties than any
other of the many specialists in the floral race. Their
classifications and distinctions are simply bewildering,
and the number of varieties, each claiming some marked
difference or peculiarity in form or shade of color, is
astounding. We shall not attempt to follow them, we
dare not even approach them, as there has been more

237

NARCISSUS,

GROUP OF NARCISSUS,

238 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

than enough written on the Narcissus to fill more pages
than are contained in this entire work.

There are three distinct classes of Narcissus, the
old and well known Daffodils, both single and double
forms; the white-flowered or Poet’s Narcissus, and the
Tazetta, or Polyanthus Narcissus. The first two classes
are perfectly hardy, and will thrive in almost any soil or
situation. In the open border they should be planted in
quantity, especially in those spots where they appear
naturally at home, such as under the shade of trees, and
in the shrubbery borders, where many other plants
refuse to bloom. The newly awakened interest in the
many forms of single and double Daffodils is almost as
lively as when the poets sang so loud their praises.
This interest is well deserved, as they certainly are most
effective and desirable border flowers. All the species
and varieties of Narcissus should be grown in clumps
and patches in every suitable vacant spot, and there is
not a spot where grass will grow in which the Narcissus
will not thrive.

Under fences and beside hedges, or in any out-of-
the way place, large quantities of the more free-growing
sorts, especially WN. poeticus, should be planted for a
supply of early cut flowers, and a portion should be in
sunny, and a portion in shaded places, to prolong the
season of flowering. Their graceful appearance renders
them peculiarly valuable for this purpose, and, if cut
when partially opened, they will develop in water, and
last for many days. In planting, be guided by the size
of the bulb, allowing four to five inches between small
sorts, and from six to eight inches between the large
varieties. At this distance apart the bulbs will soon
completely fill the spaces forming a compact mass, and
it is then their flowers are produced the most freely. In
fact, they do not make an effective mass of bloom until
the bulbs are crowded. This is one of the good features

oo 2D

NARCISSUS. 239

in growing the Narcissus, that when a planting is once
made, no further attention is necessary, as they will pro-
tect themselves against all encroachment. Quack grass
even has to give way to them, and in spite of it there
will be an annual improvement in the quantity and
quality of bloom.

The third class, having WV. Tazetta as the type, and
including the species and varieties usually employed for
forcing by the florists, cannot be treated so carelessly ;
it demands greater attention, and is not, by any
means, hardy. ‘The bulbs should be planted, at least,
five inches deep, and be protected against frost. In a
changeable climate, where there is alternate freezing and
thawing, these bulbs will not succeed unless ample pro-
tection is afforded. They are desirable for pot culture,
for the window garden, and should be potted as early as
possible after they arrive from Europe. The Double
Roman and Paper White naturally come into bloom in
advance of the other sorts, and should be selected for
early display. Pot them rather firmly in a rich, porous
soil, but not so firmly as to render it impossible for the
roots to penetrate, or they will raise the bulbs out of the
soil. Place the bulbs in a cool spot, and cover them
with coal ashes or any other material, to keep the bulbs
in their places, and to prevent the foliage from starting
prematurely. When top growth commences, which will
be by the first of December, the pots can be given their
position in the window-garden or conservatory. <A suc-
cession can be kept up until flowers appear in the open
border, by bringing the pots in at intervals. If a little
bottom heat is given the plants as soon as the buds ap-
pear, it will hasten their flowering, but those who have
not the necessary appliances will not be the losers, as
the flowers will be better without artificial aid.

The Tazetta class of Narcissus can also be grown in
glasses in water, in the same manner recommended for

240 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

Hyacinths (Page 149), and there are no bulbs that sur-
pass Narcissus with this method of culture. ‘The Chi-
nese Sacred Lily, or Narcissus, which is one of the J.
Tazetta group, is readily and perfectly grown in this man-
ner; but a more pleasing way is to place the bulbs in an
earthen dish, on about half an inch of gravel, and cover
them half way up with white gravel. Place them in full
sunlight and they will bloom perfectly.

Before placing the bulbs in the gravel, the Chinese
cut away the hard skin on the top of the bulb, which
greatly facilitates growth ; in cutting, do not injure the
leaf growth, and only cut about an eighth of an inch in
depth. The Chinese also cut the bulb longitudinally
in four places, as though they were to quarter the bulb,
but only cut to the depth of one-quarter of an inch.
How this benefits the bulb we cannot say, but it is their
method, and we have followed it with great success.

Forcing the Narcissus for Cut Flowers.—
These bulbs are now forced in immense quantities by
the florists, and the method employed is to plant the
bulbs in shallow boxes, ordinary flats, filled with com-
mon potting soil; the bulbs are placed three to four
inches apart, and covered level with their upper surfaces.
They are then placed in a cool, dark shed, until they
have made good root-growth, which will be by the first
of November, if they have been put away early in Sep-
tember, as they should be. The boxes are then brought
into the greenhouse as required, and given a moderate
heat and all the light possible. Flowers will be ready
for cutting in six weeks after the bulbs have been brought
forward. A succession can be kept up, according to the
demands of the trade.

Many of the single Daffodils are available for forc-
ing. The best are Trumpet Major, yellow; Trumpet
Major, yellow and white; Obvallaris (Tenby Daffodil),
rich yellow; and Poeticus Ornatus, white with crimson

NARCISSUS. 241

TYPE OF HOOP-PETTICOAT NARCISSUS.

16

242 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

eye. Of the double varieties, Incomparable, yellow and
orange; Pseudo-N. Plenus, or Lent Lily, yellow and
white; and Von Sion, all yellow; Alba-Plena Odorata, a
fine double white, is also used. ‘The hybrid varieties are
very fine, but too expensive for general cultivation.

As the varieties are so numerous we cannot attempt
their description, but will briefly refer to the species.

N. Bulbocodium (Common Hoop-Petticoat Nar-
cissus).—This has so long occupied a place in the garden
that a description is quite unnecessary. It is a native of
the Pyrenees, and is perfectly hardy. See Page 241.

N. gracilis (Yellow Rush-Leaved Narcissus).—This
differs from other of the rush-leaved sorts, in having
flowers similar in shape to those of NW. poeticus, but of
a soft sulphur-yellow color, and in having but two or
three on a stalk. This has so long been an inhabitant
of the garden that its origin is unknown. There are
several varieties, one of which is popularly known as the
Silver Jonquil.

N. incomparabilis (Peerless Daffodil) (Butter
and Eggs).—There are a large number of varieties and
sub-varieties of this species, all hardy, showy, and well
adapted for woods or shaded places. It can be natural-
ized anywhere, making very effective clumps in early
spring. See Page 238.

N. Jonquilla (Jonquil).—This is a native of Spain,
and an old garden favorite, because of its fragrance and
hardiness, together with its elegant form and profusion
of golden yellow flowers. There is a double form with
the same general habit, which is not common in our gar-
dens, and is liable to die out unless planted in dry soils,
because water, in winter, is destructive to it. :

N. juncifolius (Rush-Leaved Daffodil).—One of
the smallest and sweetest of the species. It is very
dwarf, and admirably adapted for rock-work. The flow-
ers are produced quite early in spring; therefore they

NARCISSUS, 243

should have a warm and protected situation, as, in this
climate, we frequently have freezing weather after they
come into bloom. It is a native of the Pyrenees.

N. odorus (Campernelle) (Fragrant).—Why Lin-
nus applied this distinctive name to this species is not
clear, as it is not more fragrant than many other of the
species. Of this there are several varieties, all worth
erowing, as they will thrive in any warm situation.

N. poeticus (Poets’ Narcissus).—This is one of
the most beautiful, as well as the most common, of the
species. A border of this Narcissus, after the bulbs get
well established, has no equal among early flowers.
There are several varieties, differing but little excepting
in time of flowering. Flowers pure white with crimson
border on the cup. See Page 238.

N. Pseudo-Narcissus (The Common Daffodil, or
Lent Lily).—This is so common in Europe that it has
become naturalized in many places. It will grow any-
where, in sun or shade, and increases rapidly where once
planted.

Var. moschatus (White Spanish Daffodil).—A very
dwarf plant, with flowers similar to the common daffodil,
excepting that they are of a delicate creamy white color.
While it is classed among the perfectly hardy sorts, it
must be planted on very rich, dry soil, and then slightly
protected, or it will not bloom. )

N. Tazetta (Polyanthus Narcissus).—This is the
type of an entirely distinct class, remarkable for the fra-
grance and beauty of its flowers. We have already
noticed the class, on Page 239, observing that the repre-
sentatives are not hardy, and are only to be employed in
pot culture, or in glasses, or for forcing in the green-
house for cut flowers and conservatory decoration.
There are several hundred varieties of this species; the
most important are:

N. T. orientalis.—Chinese Sacred Lily, Page 240.

244 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

N. T. papyraceus (Paper White Narcissus).—
Among the varieties in great demand for florists’ use is
the Double Roman, one of the best. The word Tazetta
signifies a small deep vessel, like a cup. Narcissus is
the name of a youth said to have been changed into a
flower. See Page 239.

NECTAROSCORDIUM.

Honey Garlic.

This pretty little bulb is a native of Sicily. NV. sie-
ulum, the only species, was formerly included in the genus
Allium. It is perfectly hardy, growing freely in com-
mon light soil, and blooms in June. The flowers are
green, or purplish, produced on a slender scape three to
four feet high. It is increased by offsets.

NERINE.
See Page 21.
ONION LILY.
See Ornithogalum caudatum, Page 245.
OPORANTHUS.
A synonym of Sternbergia lutea, Page 22.

ORNITHOGALUM.
Star of Bethlehem.

This is a genus of hardy, half-hardy and tender
bulbs, but few of which have any place in the garden.
They are natives of Europe, Asia, and the Cape of Good
Hope. The hardy species increase so rapidly as to be-
come a nuisance. The tender species will grow in any
moist place protected against frost.

O. arabicum.—Decidedly the finest of the species,
and well adapted for house culture; it also makes a fine
display in the garden. The flowers are large, pure white
with a black center, borne on a scape one and one-half

ORNITHOGALUM. 245

feet long, in a six to twelve flowered raceme. In pots
they should be treated in the same manner as the Hya-
cinth, Page 147. In the open border the bulbs should
be planted in the spring, as they will not survive the
winter without protection, which is. needed quite as

FLOWERS AND PLANT OF ORNITHOGALUM ARABICUM.

much against water as against frost. They are rapidly
increased by offsets.

O. caudatum (Long-tailed Ornithogalum).—A
tender species from the Cape of Good Hope. The flow-
ers.are small and greenish, in a very long, densely-coy-
ered, spike-like raceme. They have a sweet, but rather

246 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

sickly smell. This species is sometimes called Onion
Lily, and is a favorite with the Chinese, who grow it in
the same manner as the Sacred Lily. It is remarkably
tenacious of life; it will grow in soil, or out; hang it
up against a wall in a dry room, and it will flower as
well there as anywhere; or, if planted in the border, it
will endure our winters, if slightly protected.

O. thyrsoides.—This species and its varieties have
rather pleasing flowers, some yellow of different shades,
and others pure white with a dark center, all distinct,
and pleasing objects in the greenhouse, where they must
be grown.

O. umbellatum (The Common Star of Bethlehem).
Although one of our prettiest early summer flowers, its
dissemination should be avoided, as it is sure to assume
the mastery over every other form of vegetation when it
once gets started. If this species could be confined
within reasonable limits, its presence in the garden
would be most desirable. The remaining species do not
merit description.

OVEIDA.
See Lapeyrousia, Page 169.
OXALIS.

This is an extensive genus, the species differing
widely in habit and form, and requiring various methods
of culture. The genus contains annuals, perennials and
bulbous plants; the latter, only, shall we mention. Of
these there are several species of great value, as border
plants for edgings, and for winter blooming in the con-
servatory or window garden.

O. Bowiei.—One of the most desirable species.
The flowers are dark rose, produced in umbels, continu-
ously either throughout the summer or winter, according
as the bulbs have been treated. ike most other bulbs,

OXALIS. 247

they require a season of rest; that season can be easily
regulated, but it is of no use to try to flower these bulbs
in winter, if they have flowered in the summer. The
use of this, as well as of the following species, is as
winter flowering plants, and to have them flower in win-
ter, bulbs must be procured that were formed on winter
flowering plants, and ripened off in spring or early sum-
mer. Bulbs that have flowered during the summer, and
have formed new ones which have perfected their

OXALIS ROSEA (FLORIBUNDA).

growth, will not flower again until the following sum-
mer. This is often the cause of failure, in winter
blooming. The bulbs offered by the trade have been
grown in the open ground during summer, when, instead,
they should have been grown in the greenhouse the pre-
vious winter. The cultivation of this species is very
simple. In October put three bulbs, the larger the bet-
ter, in a six inch pot filled with ordinary potting mold,
aud place them where they can have all the light possi-

248 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

ble, and water as required. ‘They will at once show, by
the drooping of the foliage, any neglect in this respect
they may receive; they will soon come into flower, and
continue for two or three months. This species would
be well worth growing for the beauty of its foliage,
which is very large and massive. After flowering, grad-
ually withhold water; when the foliage dies down, set
the pots away where the soil will keep perfectly dry,
until it is time to start them into growth, when they
should be repotted. They increase rapidly, and are
natives of the Cape of Good Hope. |

O. luteola.—Another Cape species, and our first
choice for a winter flowering bulb, either in the green-
house, conservatory or window garden. It must, in all
respects, be treated like the foregoing, and if it cannot
have plenty of sunlight there is no use attempting its
growth. The flowers are golden yellow, produced in
large terminal clusters on long slender scapes. It is a
persistent and continuous bloomer. It can be planted
out on a shallow greenhouse bench, and for months the
bench will appear a mass of bloom.

O. rosea (Floribunda).—See Page 247.

O. versicolor.—A splendid border plant, quite as
ornamental in foliage as in flower; the flowers are small,
but produced in such quantity as to make a pleasing
effect.

O. lasiandra (Woolly-stamened).—Very effective
as a border plant, and a continuous bloomer. It should
be used as an edging, for which there is no plant more
suitable. ‘The leaves are very large, dark green, and
having seven to twelve divisions. The bulbs of this and
of the preceding species should be taken up after the
first frost, and stored in a cool cellar, free from frost.
They increase rapidly by offsets, which will flower the
first season. |

O. cernua.—A synonym or variety of O. luteola.
We were never able to detect any difference.

PANCRATIUM. 249

PANCEATIUM CALATHINUM,

250 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PILANTS.

PANCRATIUM.

This is a genus of greenhouse or half-hardy bulbs,
but little cultivated, from the fact that their beauty and
usefulness is not proportionate to their price, or the cost
of cultivation. The flowers are white, or greenish white,
produced in large umbels, on a solid scape about two
feet high. The species abound in the South of Europe,
Africa, Arabia, and in several of the more southern of
the United States. They all require greenhouse treat-
ment, thriving best when planted in a rather light
loamy soil. ‘They require a season of perfect rest, and
are propagated by offsets. See engraving, Page 249.

P. maritimum (Sea Daffodil).—This plant abounds
on the coast of the Mediterranean, in the sands, where
it has the burning rays of the sun and the cold winds
from the sea. These conditions are difficult to furnish
in the greenhouse, and to flower well it must have them.
It seems to have been created for the position it fills in
its native habitat, where it blooms most profusely.

P. ovatum.—A native of the West Indies, and is
the most beautiful of the genus, and a desirable green-
house plant, bearing an umbel of fifteen to thirty pure
white, sweet-scented flowers, most useful for cut flower
decoration, while the plant in bloom is one of the most
useful for decorative purposes. It is an easy subject to
manage, and can be made to bloom twice in a season, by
giving it complete rest soon after flowering, and a humid
atmosphere when in growth.

P. carolinianum.—Common on the Southeastern
coast of North America from South Carolina to Florida.
This is now considered a synonym of P. maritimum,
the slight difference in habit being attributed to climatic
influences.

P. calathinum (Hymenocallis).— A native of
Brazil, with pure white, fragrant flowers; this is listed

PARDANTHUS. 251

by the trade as Ismene Knightii, but it is now called
Hymenocallis calathina (Page 158).

PARDANTHUS.
Blackberry Lily, or Leopard Flower.

This handsome flower is not a lily, as its popular
name implies, but belongs to the Iris family. Its
name, Pardanthus chinensis, is derived from pardos,
leopard, and anthos, a flower—hence leopard flower;
and chinensis means of China. The Chinese Leopard
Flower was formerly very common in gardens, but like
many another deserving plant, has given way to the
universal craze for novelties. The stem grows three or
four feet high, branches at the top, where it bears regu-
lar flowers of an orange color, and abundantly dotted
with crimson or reddish-purple spots. One great merit
of the Leopard flower is that it is late flowering, being
in bloom from midsummer to September. After the
pretty flowers have faded, the capsules grow on and
enlarge, and when quite ripe the walls of the capsules
break away and curl up, leaving a central column of
shining, black-coated seed, looking so much like a well-
developed, ripe blackberry, that the fruit, if not so
handsome as the flower, is, quite as interesting, and
shows that in this instance it does not require any effort
of the imagination to see the applicability of perhaps its
most common name—the Blackberry Lily. The plant
is hardy in most of the Northern States, but the French
florists say that it does not endure the winters of Paris
without protection. It is a tuberous-rooted, herbaceous
perennial, requiring a rich, sandy loam soil, and a shel-
tered situation in winter. It is propagated in spring by
seeds, or by division of the roots. A plant, together
with its flowers and fruit, is seen in the engraving,
on Page 252. This plant is now botanically known as
Belamcanda chinensis. See engraving on next page.

252 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

BLACKBERRY ‘LILY OR LEOPARD FLOWER,

Qo

PENTLANDIA—PEONY, 25

PENTLANDIA.
See Urceolina miniata, Page 298.

PEONY.
Peonia.

The Peony has few rivals in the herbaceous border,
when well treated, which, as is the case with many other
strong, noble characters, is not always done. Because it
is strong, it is generally supposed that it will feed and
care for itself. The reverse is the case, generally, with
strong growing plants. The stronger they are the more
food they require to bring out their full development.
A more neglected plant is not to be found in our gardens
than the Peony. It is put anywhere, without regard to
its necessities, in the shade, in the grass, or so near the
path that it gets trampled under foot. In spite of such
treatment it will flower. While the Peony will flower
under unfavorable circumstances, it should have a deep,
lively loam, rich when the plants are set, and kept so
ever after. The ground should be mulched in summer
to keep the roots moist, and some coarse litter should be
thrown over the plant in winter to prevent severe freez-
ing, as well as alternate freezing and thawing. The soil
should be well worked about the plants, the same as fer
the Rose. With such treatment, the plants, from a dis-
tance, will seem all flower, instead of presenting an occa-
sional one.

Shrubby Peonies.—This genus is divided into
two distinct classes, Shrubby and Herbaceous, of which
there are several species, and a large number of varieties.
The shrubby species and varieties are usually propagated
by division, or layers; but they may also be grafted on
the roots of the herbaceous sorts, or struck from cut-
tings. The grafting may be done any time from the
beginning of September until the first of March. Select
good strong tubers of the herbaceous sorts, and take off

254 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS,

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MOUTAN OR TREE PEONY.

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PEONY. 255

cuttings about six inches long of any desired variety.
Then slit the tubers from the crown downwards about
two inches; form the scion like a wedge, insert it into
the slit of the tuber, and fit the barks on one side as
accurately as possible, then bind them well together, as
in any ordinary root grafting. It is well to bind with
copper wire, as the bast may rot before a union takes
place. Put them in a shaded cold frame; plant them
out when they have perfected one season’s growth, or
treat them like established plants. ‘The shrubby Peonies
are considered perfectly hardy, and are, so far that frost
will not injure the plants, but they will flower more
freely in a well sheltered situation.

Pzonia Moutan (Tree Peony).—This species is a
native of China and Japan, whence it was introduced in
1789. In its native habitat it is said to grow from eight
to ten feet high, bearing an abundance of purple flowers.
With us it rarely grows four feet high, but in a partially
protected situation it forms a rather dense under-shrub,
and flowers profusely. Since the species were first intro-
duced numerous varieties have been brought out, with
white, pink, purple, rose, magenta and salmon-colored
flowers, mostly single or semi-double. See engraving.

The Herbaceous Peonies are increased by divis-
ion. When this is desirable it should be done in Octo-
ber. The tubers may be divided to any extent, only it
is necessary to have, at least, one eye on each tuber.
Immediately after cutting up, plant in nursery rows, or
where they are to remain. If divided in autumn they
will usually flower the following season, but if divided
in the spring they rarely flower until another year. The
most desirable species are :

Pzonia albiflora.—This is the old and well-
known double white Peony, a native of Siberia; of this
there are several varieties, all of which are very showy
and useful. They are mostty avout two feet high, and

256 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

are distinguishable by the rather bold, smooth, three.
parted leaves. A few of the best are:

Var. fragrans.—Dark pink rose-scented flowers.

Var. Humei.—Double crimson, very showy.

Var. Pottsii.—Dark crimson; the plant tall-grow-
ing and strong.

Var. Whitleyii.—Fine double white, yellowish
center.

P. officinalis.—This is the old double red Peony
of the gardens, one of the most showy of the species, as
well as the most desirable, because of its hardiness and
Vp free-flowering qualities.
eee

Ai

/ y
| La It is closely allied to
“ZZ the foregoing species,

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Os
SASS

I
\\

\ Ss
i ie =
>> V Ages, Y Soggy

} z-. leaves are much parted,
fos and the segments are
: divided into numerous
Ne ee thread-like lobes. The
flowers of the double forms are very compact, of a bright
crimson color. It is one of the earliest of our spring
flowers, blooming soon after the Tulip. It is one of the
best Peonies, and worthy a place in any select border,
and is quite elegant and congruous in small gardens.
The herbaceous Peonies are readily propagated by
seed, by which means an almost endless variety may be
secured, as hybridization has been so effective that the
seedlings partake of all the forms and colors that the
species are capable of producing.

Ea SEA) 100 is the parent of nu-

_< RS ee) © merous varieties.
SRE 3B) P. tenuifolia (Fine
7, Hise hah ae Leaved Peony).—This
Mh wuld AN is one of the most dis-
NAN) PRS tinct of herbaceous Peo-
= SW ZZ FZ nies. Itis rather dwarf,
= Ee | ee rarely growing more
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PEON Y—PH ZDRANASSA. 257

Peony seeds should be sown in light soil as soon as
ripe, which will be about the first of September, and
covered with half an inch of soil. They will come up
the following spring, and may remain in the seed bed
for two years before they are transplanted, scattering a
little earth over them when the leaves decay, at the end
of the growing season. After two years growth in the
seed bed, they should, in October, be transplanted into
well prepared nursery rows, and put out six inches apart,
and three inches deep. Here they are to remain until
they flower, which, if in good soil, and with good culti-
vation, will be the foarth year after seed-sowing.

PERUVIAN DAFFODILS.
See Hymenocallis Amancaes, Page 157.
PEYROUSIA.
See Lapeyrousia, Page 169.
PHADRANASSA.

Queen Lily.

A small genus of rather curious bulbs, growing at a
high elevation among the rocks in the Peruvian Andes.
They are more interesting than showy or handsome.
The flowers are about two inches long, in the form of a
slender tube, of a light pea-green color, tipped with
pink. They flower in winter, after which the bulbs
require a long season of rest. Their whole period of
growth does not exceed three months. The cool green-
heuse is suited to them. They increase by offsets.

PHALLOCALLIS.
See Cypella, Page 76.
PHYCELLA.
A small genus of half-hardy bulbous plants from
the mountain regions of Mexico, which is now included

in Hippeastrum, Page 13.
17

258 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

PLANTIA,

A small genus of Cape bulbs now included in Hexa-
glottis, Page 137.

POLIANTHES TUBEROSA.
Tuberose.

Everyone who has a garden, or a taste for flowers,
knows the Tuberose. Its history, however, may not be
known. D. F. Fish, in his book on ‘‘ Bulbs and their
Culture,” says it is a native of Italy. In Nicholson’s
‘Dictionary of Gardening,” Mexico has the honor of
its nativity. ‘Two species make up the genus.

In Parkinson’s quaint old book, ‘‘The Garden of
Pleasant Flowers,” published in 1629, we find the follow-
ing description of it, under its then known name of
Hyacinth, with which it was classed: ‘* Hyacinthus
Indicus major tuberosa radice, ‘the greater Indian
Knobbed Jacinth.’ I have thought fittest to begin with
this Jacinth (Hyacinth), both because it is the greatest
and highest, and also because the flowers herof are in
some likenesse neare unto a Daffodille, although his
roote be tuberous, and not bulbous, as the rest are.
This Indian Jacinth hath a thicke knobbed roote (yet
formed into several heads, somewhat like unto bulbous
roots), with many thick fibres at the bottom of them ;
from the divers heads of this roote arise divers strong
and very tall stalkes, beset with divers faire, long and |
broad leaves, joined at the bottome close unto the stalk,
where they are the greatest, and smaller to the very end,
and those that grow higher to the toppe, being smaller
and smaller. The toppes of the stalkes are garnished
with many faire, large, white flowers, each wherof is
composed of six leaves, lying spread open as the flowers
of the white Daffodil, with some short threads in the
middle, and of a very sweet scent, or rather strong and
heades.”

POLIANTHES TUBEROSA. 259

The double flowering variety was a seedling raised
by Mons. Le Cour, of Leyden, in Holland, who for many
years would not, “ial
under any circum-
stances, part with
arootofit. Hven
after propagating
a desired quantity,
if there was a sur-
plus, he would
cause every tuber
to be cut in pieces
and destroyed, in
order to be the
only possessor of
so valuable a plant,
and, which he con-
sidered, the finest
flower in the world.

The cultiva-
tion of the Tube- ,
rose bulb was, for
many years, con-
fined principally
to the Italian nur-
series; but for the
past twenty-five
years they have
been largely grown
in the United
States. At the
present time the
markets of the
world are largely |
supplied with DOUBLE TUBEROSE.
American grown bulbs. Less change of form from the
species has taken place with this, than with almost any

"f,

260 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

other form in cultivation. The only change worthy a
varietal name was a ‘‘Sport,” discovered by John Hen-
derson, of Flushing, N. Y., growing in his field, about
1870. A number of plants of strong habit of growth,
and with dark, broad foliage, attracted his attention,
and he determined to keep them apart from his main
stock, in order to see what the result would be. These
he cultivated in the same manner as his other bulbs.
Upon their flowering, he discovered a distinct type, of
dwarf habit, and much larger flowers. This he at once
named the ‘‘ Pearl,” and from the then small stock
the trade is now wholly supplied. What is known as
the ‘‘Excelsior” Pearl, is simply the ‘‘Pearl,” and
nothing else.

P. gracilis.—A native of Brazil. It has pale yel-
low flowers of small merit, and is but little known.

P. tuberosa (Common Tuberose).—The earliest
account we have of this species is in L’Ecluse’s ‘‘ History
of Plants,” from which we learn it was brought from
the Indies by Father Theophilus Minuti, a Christian
missionary, about the year 1530, who grew it in his gar-
dens near Toulon, France. Bernard Paludanus, a dis-
tinguished physician at Rome, grew it in 1594, having
obtained the roots from the priests, who had, previously,
refused the most earnest entreaties to part with it. At
this time the single species and the variety with varie-
gated foliage were the only ones in cultivation.

Culture of the Tuberose.—The Tuberose is a
gross feeder, and succeeds best in a light loam, but will
grow in any soil, providing it is moist and rich; rich it
must be, without regard to other conditions; its com-
plete requisites are, heat, water and manure; if these
are proportionate, it matters not how much there may
be, the plants will consume it, and by their growth show
its importance.

For fie!d culture prepare the ground as for a crop of
potatoes; plant in drills thirty inches apart, and place

POLIANTHES TUBEROSA. 261

the bulbs four inches apart in the drills, three inches
below the surface. Keep the cultivator constantly
going, not to kill weeds, but to make Tuberose bulbs.
After a frost take up the bulbs, cut the tops to within
two inches of the tops of the bulbs, and store in a dry
room, where the temperature does not fall below 40°.
From North Carolina southward, small sets will make
-large flowering bulbs in one season ; to the northward it
requires two years. For that reason, what are known as
**Southern grown bulbs,” can be profitably sold much
cheaper than those grown at the North. Whether the
latter are to be preferred because of their superiority, is
a disputed question. Our opinion is that it is not a
question of growth, but of the care taken of the bulbs
after they are dug, that enhances or detracts from their
value. Northern grown bulbs, like all other plants that
have a shorter period of growth, will produce their flow-
ers earlier, but whether with more eee we have
great doubts.

For blooming in the garden, the offsets should all
be carefully taken off, and the bulbs put away until the
wounds are dried over; then plant in good rich soil,
placing the bulb just below the surface; if covered too
deep they are not as likely to flower.

Greenhouse Culture of Tuberoses.—Tuberoses
can be had in bloom, with a little care, nearly the whole
year. Plants that show flower buds in the field, upon
the approach of frost, will perfect their growth if care-
fully taken up and put in a warm greenhouse, as will
bulbs that have not even shown their flower stalks. Dry
bulbs may be planted from January to August, which
will keep up a succession of bloom. They succeed best
planted out on the benches with about four inches of
good soil. The same conditions of growth must be
observed indoors as without,—heat, manure, water, and
a free circulation of air. They must, moreover, have

262 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

the full light of the house; in a dark house, the flower-
spikes will be long-drawn, weak, and the flowers will be
small and of but little substance.

The too common practice of filling up every vacant
place in the greenhouse with Tuberoses is a mistake.
To have good flowers, the plants must have plenty of
room, light, air and heat. The bulbs should not be
closer than six inches apart each way.

PUSCHKINIA.

P. scilloides, the only species, is a pretty little
bulb with flowers resembling those of a Scilla. The
leaves grow from the root, and stand erect round the
stem, as though protecting the flower. It is a native of
Asia Minor, the Caucasus and Afghanistan, and quite
hardy. ‘Treat the same as all hardy bulbs. ‘The propa-
gation is effected by ofisets.

PYROLIRION.
Flame Lily.

The two species that constitute this genus have
tubular flowers, bearing considerable resemblance to
those of the Zephyranthes in shape, but differ widely in
color. They are both natives of Peru, and require the
same treatment as the Zephyranthes (Page 25). They
flower in summer, growing freely in light soil. The
bulbs must be kept from frost during winter.

P. aureum (Zephyranthes Flower).—Grows as
freely in the grain fields and hedgerows of Peru, as the
daisies in our fields. The flowers are clear golden yellow.

P. flavum.—In all respects similar to the above,
except in its orange-colored flowers.

QUEEN LILY.
See Phedranassa, Page 257,

RANUNCULWUS. 263

RANUNCULUUS.

Nearly one hundred and sixty species are included
in this genus, which is divided into two distinct classes :
The Herbaceous Ranunculus, which inhabit nearly
every country of the globe, and embrace all manner of
weeds, as well as showy plants; and the Garden Ranun-
culus. The latter consist of many hundreds of varieties
obtained from the species Ranunculus asiaticus, a na-
tive of the Levant. This species has tuberous roots, is
indigenous in Persia, in meadows which are moist during
the winter and the growing season, but dry during a
great part of summer. In our climate the latter plant
is difficult to manage, as it should be planted in Febru-
ary, a season when gardening operations are wholly sus-
pended. If the tubers are planted then and protected
hy a frame, they flower freely in June; then they should
have a partial shading from the sun, which is too powerful
for them. ‘The soil they prefer is a light and sandy one,
riade rich with well-rotted manure; avoid any that is
Neating. What is known as the Turban Ranunculus
should be planted in November. and protected in the
same manner as the former.

Very soon after the blooming season, the leaves
begin to fade, a sign that the roots are fit to be taken
up, much depending upon doing this at the proper time.
If taken up before they are ripe, a loss of vigor is the
result, and the same if allowed to remain a few days
beyond the proper season. The proper time is easily
determined, by the leaves parting from the roots with a
slight pull; when this can be done, let them be at once
taken up. After cleansing them from the soil, spread
them thinly in a shaded place to dry, turning them fre-
quently until they are perfectly dried, then they may be
stored away.

The tubers, if kept dry, will retain their vitality for
two or three years; this will allow of their being planted

264 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

bye

\

iv/)

at

2
Z
Zz
ZB

TYPES OF RANUNCULUS,

RANUNCULUS. 265

at any desired time; and, as the cool greenhouse is the
proper place for growing them, in our climate, a succes-
sion of bloom can be constantly kept up. In the green-
house, the bulbs may be planted in pots, pans or boxes ;
three tubers will be sufficient for a six inch pot. The
flowers are very showy and pleasing; colors from pure
white to dark crimson and yellow, with every variety of
variegation. Ranunculus is the Latin name for little
frog, applied by Pliny to these plants, the aquatic spe-
cies growing where frogs abound.

As we have said in the American Agriculturist:
Very few races of plants have a wider geographical range,
or a greater diversity of character than the Ranunculus.
The genus contains species of rare beauty, and a few
troublesome weeds. Some are inhabitants of swamps,
and others thrive in dry, waste places. The common
buttercup, R. bulbosus, is a weed in our marshy mead-
ows, but it is as welcome as spring to the botanist, or
the lover of early flowers. It gives so much warmth
and life to the landscape that, troublesome as it is, the
meadow would seem unnatural without it. The Ranun-
culus of gardens is f. asiaticus, commonly known as
the Persian Ranunculus, although it was first introduced
from the Levant in 1596. Like many other florists’
flowers, the species has expanded to many varieties pro-
duced through the agency of cross-fertilization. One
hundred years ago it was one of the most popular plants
under cultivation, eight hundred distinct varieties being
grown. It is still exceedingly popular in Europe, where
it can be easily grown, a bed keeping in bloom for fully
two months. The flowers are of various shades, and
with an intensity of color only to be found in the poppy.
There is no class of plants more free-flowering. A good
strong tuber will throw up as many as thirty flowers.
Its name is from rana, a frog, because the plants usually
inhabit the same places. For that reason, beautiful as

266 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

the flower is, it is not well suited to our climate, and
can only be grown under artificial conditions that render
its cultivation here more difficult. The Ranunculus is
one of the many plants of remarkable beauty in their
own homes, but not adapted to other climates. Drouth,
poverty of soil, rare atmosphere and fierce sunshine, are

—~

CALLA FLOWERS AND FOLIAGE.

fatal to its development. It is, moreover, easily injured
by frost. Very satisfactory results, however, can be
obtained by planting the bulbs in a cold frame, protected
by a liberal mulching of leaves to exclude the frost. In
early spring remove the mulch, but keep the sash on, as

RICHARDIA, 267

cold winds are fatal; on the other hand, they will not
endure intense sunshine, so that great care is required
in shading and ventilating, to imitate well the cool,
moist climate of EKurope.

RICHARDIA.

Calla. Egyptian or Arum Lily. Lily of the Nile.

Calla is a popular name given this flower by Pliny.
It is, botanically, ichardia ethiopica (synonym
R. africana), and is the best representative of the
genus, which contains five species. They abound in the
Nile, and flower during the season of high water, which
covers the roots to the depth of several inches. After
the spring freshets have subsided the water falls below
the roots, and the tops die down, fall over and protect
the roots against the tropical sun. This is the period of
rest that nature furnishes this plant, during which time
the temporary bed of the river, in which they grow, is
as dry as dust. In this condition they remain several
months, or until they are again covered with water,
when growth is renewed.

To grow the Calla well, these conditions must be
approximated. While we cannot afford them rivers to
grow in, we must afford them an abundance of water, a
moderately high temperature and a rich soil. In pot
culture, too large pots must not be given them; a six-
inch size is sufficiently large for a plant with two or
three crowns, which should give several blooms each.
In large pots, leaf growth will be the result, rather than
flowers. In using small pots, liquid manure, in some
form, should be applied at least once a week. Another
disadvantage in the use of large pots is, that the flowers
are too large for real beauty, or for use as cut flowers.
The same result follows from planting them out in beds
in the greenhouse.

268 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

CALLA FIELD

RICHARDIA- 269

IN CALIFORNIA,

270 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

After flowering, a season of complete rest is essential.
This is best afforded by turning the pots on their sides
in some shaded place, where water cannot reach. ‘This
is aS near as we can approach a natural rest. With this
rest the plants will make less leaves, and far more flow-
ers, Which is the object to be gained.

The plants may be re-potted, if necessary, about the
first of October, giving them a pot one size larger than
they previously occupied. The offsets may be potted
separately, in two-inch pots, which are sufficiently large.
If the plants are not over-crowded in the pots a change
will not be necessary. Set the pots in a tub of water
until the ball is thoroughly wet, then grow on as before
stated. For the window garden there is no more satis-
factory plant than the Calla; it will endure more heat
than most others, and there is no danger from over-
watering. An occasional syringing and washing of the
leaves with a soft sponge, to keep them free from dust,
is of great importance. What are popularly known as
Crimson or Black Callas, are species of Arum, described
on Page 33. The true species are:

R. zthiopica (Syn. R&. africana). — Described
above.

R. albo-maculata.—A species with spotted foliage,
and smaller white flowers, with purple center, produced
freely in summer. It makes a fine clump in the border.
The tubers of this species can be kept dry during winter,
the same as ‘Dahlias (Page 84), and divided in spring
when planted out. This species grows readily from seed
sown in the garden at the same time the bulbs are
planted ; flowering the second year.

R. hastata (Yellow Calla).—The flowers of this
species are similar in all respects to those of R. wthiopica,
excepting that they are of a greenish yellow color.
The plants are to be treated in the same manner.

RIGIDELLA—ROMAN SQUILL. R01

RIGIDELLA,

R. flammea, a native of Mexico, is the best repre-
sentative of this small genus of plants, where it grows
from three to five feet high, with very broad and curi-
ously plicate leaves, which look as though they had been
artificially plaited by the hands of a skillful workman.
The flowers are numerous, all issuing from one spathe,
and opening only one at a time. They are very hand-
some, from the brilliancy of their color and the peculiar-
ity of their form. It is a summer flowering bulb, to be
treated in the same manner as the Tigridia.

ROMAN HYACINTH.
See Page 153.

ROMAN SQUILL or BELLEVALIA.,

This flower is usually classed with the genus Hya-
cinthus, Page 156. It is a hardy, bulbous plant, well
adapted for spring bedding or for forcing for cut flow-
ers. The leaves are few and near the ground. It is
propagated by offsets, and also by seeds, which should
be sown as soon as ripe.

Bellevalia romana (Hyacinthus romanus) (Roman
Squill).—The small, whitish, bell-shaped flowers are
borne in racemes. A native of Italy, and the best
species for forcing.

B. syriaca (Syrian Squill).—Flowers whitish or
violet, tinged with green. A native of Syria.

ROMUELA.
See Trichonema, Page 278.
SANGUINARIA,
Bloodroot.

S. canadensis.—The common Bloodroot of our
woods is a herbaceous, tuberous-rooted plant, well wor-

202 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS,

thy a place in the shaded border. It can be easily
removed from its native habitat, by lifting the tuberous
roots when the foliage begins to turn yellow, and trans-
ferring them to the garden, with as little delay as possi-
ble. But few of our native plants are as attractive, or so
easily managed. When once planted it can remain
undisturbed for years, and when under cultivation the
flowers increase in size and in the number of their petals.
In the border, it will require a mulching of leaves, which
it has in its native wood, to protect against frost.
SCILLA.
Squill.

Among spring and early summer flowering bulbs,
the Scillas are of considerable importance, both for their
effect in the border and for their use as cut flowers.
Their flowers resemble those of the Hyacinth, but are
much smaller; their colors are more intense, and they
come into flower much earlier. As an edging, or for fill-
ing small beds, if planted sufficiently thick, the effect is
matchless ; and equally so grown in the borders in groups
of a dozen or a hundred. ‘The bulbs should be planted
in October, either in the border, or for the house in pots,
in the same manner as the Hyacinth. ‘They thrive any-
where, but do best in good sandy soil. ‘They may remain
several years undisturbed without injury, the clump
increasing in size and beauty.

S. sibirica.—This species is the gem of the genus,
its intense blue flowers, appearing with the Crocus and
Snowdrop, make a pleasing contrast. It is a native of
Siberia, as its name would imply, and is perfectly hardy.

S. preecox.—Similar to the foregoing, but not as
hardy; however, if planted in a dry situation, it will
not be injured by frost. It is a native of Germany.

S. campanulata.—One of the finest species; a
native of Spain. Flowers blue, white and pink.

SCILLA—SNOW DROP, 273

S. peruviana.—A South American species, with
blue and white flowers, on immense spikes; a magnifi-
cent plant for pot culture, but not hardy.

S. nutans (common Bluebell or Harebell).—A very
beautiful hardy species, common in English woods.

S. amcena.—One of the best, early and free-flower-
ing. Although a native of the Levant, it is usually
hardy. ‘There are an immense number of species and

AS) Ss hh te
DLA Ga “S es

Wee SY
1) SSN ae

SIBERIAN SQUILL.

varieties of the same general character, which can be
grown in the same manner.

SCILLA FRASERI,
See Camassia, Page 52.

SNOWDROP.

See Galanthus, Page 95.
18

244 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

SNOWFLAKE.
See Leucoium, Page 169.

SPARAXIS.

These were formerly included in the genus IJzia
(Page 166), and bear a close resemblance to them, the
main points of difference being
that the Sparaxis are of more
compact habit of growth, the
flowers more bold, and some-
what larger, and the flower
spikes are not more than half
as high, rarely growing more
‘than six inches. They require
the same treatment as the
Ixias, in all respects, and are
propagated in the same man-
ner. They deserve a place in
the greenhouse and window
* garden.

SPREKELIA.
See Page 22.
STAR-GRASS.
See Hypoxis, Page 158.
STAR OF BETHLEHEM.

See Ornithogalum, Page
SPARAXIS. 246.

STENOMESSON.

A small genus of South American bulbs formerly
included in Coburgia, Pancratium and Amaryllis.
Although rather pretty, the most of them do not com-

STERN BERGIA—STRUMARIA—TIGRIDIA, 275

pensate for the greenhouse treatment they require. All
require a very strong, rich soil, and the Coburgias do
well in the open border, but flower better if grown in
pots, as in the border they are more disposed to make
offsets than flowers. If grown in pots, which is the best
way of treating them, they should be plunged in the
open borde1 until the leaves are fully grown, when they
may be brought into the greenhouse to develop their
flowers.

S. coccineum.—Scarlet. Native of Peruvian Andes.

S. incarnatum (Coburgia).—A very large bulb, and
requires planting from five to six inches deep. Flowers
cup-shaped, of a bright crimson color, with green spots
on each petal. Keep perfectly dry during winter.

S. i. fulvum.—A more delicate variety, with light
orange flowers. It succeeds best in the open border,
and the bulbs are stored like the Gladiolus during win-
ter (Page 115).

STERN BERGIA.,

See Page 22.

STRUMARIA.

A small genus of Cape bulbs allied to Nerine (Page
21), and requiring to be grown in the same manner. The
flowers are red, white or pink. They are of dwarf habit,
and thrive with ordinary greenhouse treatment.

TIGRIDIA.
Tiger Flower or Tiger Iris.

These singular Mexican bulbs have no equal for gar-
den display, when we consider their ease of culture, the
length of time they are in flower, their magnificent col-
ors and singular forms. Their remarkable flowers are
of but short duration, never lasting more than a day,
but are produced i such successive abundance as to
compensate for this defect; one plant will continue

276 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS,

TIGRIDIA FLOWER

TIGRIDIA. att

flowering for two or three months, and during the whole
of that time will make a splendid display in the garden.

For the best effect the Tigridia should be planted in
beds, the rows to be one foot apart, and the bulbs six’
inches apart in the rows, the different varieties ‘n the
same bed and the colors in alternate rows. Tuey are
not particular as to soil, preferring a light, rich one, but
will thrive in any if they have the same attention that is
given other summer-flowering bulbs or bedding plants.
They should be planted as soon as gardening operations
commence. After the first hard frost, the bulbs should
be taken up and tied in bunches, with the teps left on,
and hung up in a cellar or dry room free from frost. In
a damp cellar the bulbs will be liable to rot. The main
object, in hanging them up, is to protect them against
the mice, which are particularly fond of them. It would
answer just as well to cut the tops close to the bulbs and
keep them in ventilated boxes, if secure against mice.
They increase rapidly by offsets, but, in planting, it is
better not to break the bulbs apart, they will naturally
divide ; each bulb planted will make two or three clusters
of three each ; the latter should not be separated, as they
are liable to rot when broken apart.

T. conchiflora. — Flowers deep yellow-crimson
cup, spotted.

T. grandiflora.—Said to be a variety of 7. pavonia,
has very large bright orange-red flowers.

T. grandiflora alba.—Perhaps a sport from the
foregoing ; has pure white flowers, with center or cup
crimson spotted. This is a beautiful variety.

These three kinds are all that could be desired,
and they are all essential; the bed would not be com-
plete if either of the three were absent. The several
other varieties listed, are varieties only in name. 7.
pavonta is intermediate between TZ. conchiflora and T.
grandiflora, but is a poor grower and its color not
pleasing.

278 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS,

TILE ROOT.
See Geissorhiza, Page 98.

TRICHONEMA.
Romuela.

A genus of pretty little crocus-like bulbous plants,
natives of the Cape and of the South of Europe. They
require the same treatment as the Ixia (Page 166).
The flowers are red, blue, yellow, purple and rose, and
are produced in spring. ‘These bulbs are not hardy, and
not of sufficient interest to warrant greenhouse culture.
This genus is now included in Romuela.

TRILLIUM.
American Wood Lily, or Wake Robin.

But few of our native early flowering plants are
more showy than the Trillium. It abounds in moist,
rocky woods, in the Northern and Eastern States, and
can be successfully grown among shrubbery, if the situa-
tion is not too dry. The bulbs, or more properly,
tubers, are small, roundish, and generally deep in the
ground; they should be transplanted as soon as the tops
die down, and planted deep. They are perfectly hardy.

T. grandiflorum.—A magnificent plant; nothing
can surpass a mass of this when in bloom in its native
habitat ; color pure white, changing to rose color.

T. cernuum.—F lowers white, with green and pur-
ple center, hidden beneath the leaves. Easy of cultiva-
tion, but not very handsome.

T. sessile.—A low-growing species, with dark red-
dish flowers and variegated foliage.

There are several other species, but 7. grandiflorum
is the only truly desirable one.

TRITELEIA.

A small genus of bulbs, natives of South America
and California. Their general appearance bears a great
resemblance to the flowers of Brodiza (Page 45).

TRITELEIA—TRITONIA. 279

T. uniflora.—The only species much cultivated,
and deserving more attention than it has yet received,
as it is avery elegant species. The flowers, which are
produced in June, are very delicate and beautiful, being

TRILLIUM.

of a pale sky blue color; the only objection to them
being their garlic odor. Its introduction into the green-
house was prevented by the fact of its unpleasant odor.
They increase rapidly by offsets; and protection should
be afforded them in winter.

TRITONIA.

This genus is allied to Sparaxis, Gladiolus, [xia and
Babiana. The plants are gencvally of dwarf growth,
and more tender than their allies. ‘They are somewhat

280 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

difficult to manage, not thriving in the open border, as
they must be amply protected against frost and too much
moisture, and in the greenhouse they do not make suffi-
cient root growth to supply the leaves with nourishment.
The genus seems adapted only to its native habitat.
The species were formerly included with the Ixias (Page
166), and similar treatment is very near to their necessi-
ties. See also Montbretia, Page 233.

T. aurea.—Also known as Crocosma aurea, is
the easiest to manage, and the one most generally culti-
vated. They succeed well as border plants, in light soil,
perfectly drained, but they must be protected against
frost. Although they do not flower until August or
September, the bulbs must remain in the ground during
winter, as they cannot remain long out of ground with-
out injury. ‘To keep them dry during winter would be
fatal to them, so the only resource left is to protect them
in the bed, or take them up after flowering and keep
them in pots. Neither of the methods will find favor
with the American gardener, who has so many resources
from which to draw, either for the garden or greenhouse.

TROPHZOLUM.
Nasturtium.

The tuberous species of this genus are very interest-
ing plants, the best known being:

T. tricolorum.—sSo named because of its three-
colored flowers, orange, red and purple. The tubers of
this species are about an inch in diameter, and should
be planted on the surface of the soil, either in pots, or
on the greenhouse bench, in light fibrous soil. From
these tubers will arise delicate hair-like stems, which
increase in size as they grow, being three times the
thickness at a distance of six feet from the bulb. These
stems are so delicate that it is necessary to provide a
frawe or trellis for their support, as they are entirely

TUBEROSE—TULIP, 281

unable to support themselves. The leaves do not appear
until the vines are several feet in length. The flowers
are very showy, and produced in the greatest profusion.
Half a dozen tubers, planted at the end of the center
bench of a greenhouse, will present a mass of bloom sev-
eral feet square. This is the only one of the class that
is worthy of cultivation, and it should always be seen in
the conservatory.

TUBEROSE.
See Polianthes Page 258.

TULIP.
Tulipa.

Few plants show so plainly the florists’ skill in selec-
tion and cross-fertilization as the Tulip. Like the Glad-
iolus, it has been improved in nearly every respect, with-
out losing the respect of the systematic botanist. It is
true that in the garden Tulips there are a few double
forms, ‘‘vegetable monsters,” as Linneus termed all
double flowers; but they are, relatively, few, and the
taste for them is on the decline rather than on the in-
crease. Among the true admirers of the Tulip the
double forms meet with but little favor; where flowers
are grown simply to show a mass of color, without re-
gard to form or structure, as in our public parks, the
double Tulips answer a very good purpose, because they
are showy, and last longer than the single forms. As
flowers begin to be appreciated for their intrinsic worth,
when we look into them rather than at them, when we
see all their parts and their wonderful adaptation to each
other, the beautiful necessity there is for each, our
respect for double forms will be lost in our admiration
for the single: flower, perfect in all its parts as it was
when it first beautified the earth, and there was none to
admire other than the Power that gave it.

32 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

TYPES OF TULIPS,

TULIP, 283

It seems to be the more general opinion thai alt
flowers, in their natural state, are undeveloped, that
they require the florist’s cunning hand to become per-
fect, and that some one, with authority to speak, must
say what constitutes the perfect flower, and when a
given form has reached that state. We wish to dissent
from that view most emphatically. While we are willing
to admit that certain forms and colors have been mate-
" rially developed by the florists’ skill, we assert, without
fear of contradiction, that no floral form is more perfect,
no colors more intense or better defined, than the orig-
inal forms possessed, and that all our skill in cultivation
can only restore to the flower the properties that have
been lost, in the long ages when there was no kindly
hand to assist in its struggles with stronger forms, to
gain a supremacy. Cultivation will enable the flower,
or the plant upon which it grows, to reach that perfec-
tion which its creation entailed ; it can do no more.

The cultivation of the Tulip has restored its original
size and strength; aided by cross-fertilization it has
given new forms, or shapes of flower, a marked change
in colors, or in their distribution, and has been the
means of developing that taste and love for the beautiful
in the flower that keeps apace with the intelligence and
refinement of the age. Our perfected single Tulips are
simply restored natural forms.

Garden or Show Tulips.—The more popular
Tulips for the garden are what are usually known as
Late Flowering Tulips, single forms; these are divided
into several distinct classes, all of which had their origin
in Tulipa Gesneriana, a native of the Levant, and com-
mon in Syria and Persia. It was brought to Europe
from Persia in 1559, and was cultivated at Constan-
tinople. From this city it found its way over Europe,
under the name of the Turkish Tulip; and it was first
botanically described by Gesner, a Swiss botanist resid-

284 BULBS AND TUbEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

ing at Zurich, after whom it was very appropriately
named by Linneus. About a century after its first
introduction, it became an object of commercial specula-
tion, and enormous prices were paid for a single bulb.
It is said that as much as $3,000 was offered and refused,
in one instance. This mania ruined many of the Dutch
florists, as well as other speculators who were more
excited and reckless than the growers; but happily it
subsided in the early part of the eighteenth century, and
the propagation and trade in the Tulip assumed a healthy
tone; the industry rapidly increased until the present
time, when, in Holland, more than seven hundred acres
are devoted to its culture.

This class of Tulips has been grown from seed by
the millions, and the named varieties are so great that
it would be impossible to enumerate them ; one dealer
alone boasts of more than eighteen hundred varieties.
The ease with which the Tulip can be grown from seed
stimulated production to a wonderful extent, the result
of which is a vast number of superb varietics. The
method of growing the Tulip from seed is, in many
respects, unlike that of any other plant. There is a sin-
gularity about it exclusively its own. The seedlings,
generally, when they first bloom, produce flowers with-
out any stripes or markings; a yellow or white bottom,
and all the upright portion of the petals self-colored,
brown, red, purple, scarlet, or rose, and in this condition
they remain a number of years without any variegations ; —
they are then called Breeders, or Mother Tulips. ‘These
Breeders are planted every year until they ‘‘ break” into
stripes, and if they prove desirable they are named, if
not, they are thrown into the class known as mixtures ;
but it takes so many years, sometimes, before the
“breaking” occurs, that they are multiplied largely in
the breeder state, that is, in self colors, and are dissem-
inated im all directions as ‘‘selfs”; many of these we

TULIP. 285

consider the most desirable for garden decoration. Each
person who has broken one thinks he has a right to give
it a distinctive name, without considering whether
others have not produced varieties similar, if not identi-
cal, so that there may be under cultivation many varie-
ties with different names that are one and the same
thing. This causes great confusion in nomenclature,
the same as exists in all florists’ flowers. Another inter-
esting peculiarity which hardly belongs to any other
flower, is the great uncertainty of their markings; for
although we may have twenty of one kind in a bed,
scarcely two will come nearly alike; but after they have
once broken they never after change, the increase always
bearing the same marks. This uncertainty gives more
than half the charm to Tulip cultivation, or, rather, to
the production of new varieties.

The ideal of a first-class late Tulip has, by common
consent, been thus minutely specified: The stem should
be strong, elastic and erect, growing to about thirty
inches above the surface of the bed. The flower should
be large, and composed of six petals. These should pro-
ceed a little horizontally at first, and then turn upwards,
forming almost a perfect cup, with a round bottom,
rather widest at the top. The three exterior petals
should be rather larger than the three inner ones, and
broader at their base; all the petals should have per-
fectly entire edges, free from notch or serrature. The
top of ‘each should be broad and well rounded; the
ground color of the flower at the bottom of the cup
should k> clear white or yellow; and the various rich
colered stripes, which are the principal ornament of a
fine ‘itp, shod be regular, bold and distinct on the
mergin, and terminated in fine broken points, elezantly
feathcred or penciled. The center of each leaf or petal
should contain one or more bold blotches or stripes,
intermixed with small portions of the original or breeder

286 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

color, abruptly broken into many irregular, obtuse points.
Some florists are of the opinion that the central stripes
or blotches do not contribute to the beauty and elegance
of the Tulip, unless confined to narrow stripes exactly
down the center, and that they should be perfectly free
from any remains of the breeder or original color. It is
certain that such appear very beautiful and delicate,
especially when they have a regular, narrow feathering
at the edge; but the greatest connoisseurs in this flower
unanimously agree that it denotes superior merit, when
the Tulip abounds with rich coloring, distributed in a
distinct and regular manner throughout the flower,
except in the bottom of the cup, which, it cannot be dis-
puted, should be a clear, bright white or yellow, free
from stain or tinge, in order to constitute a perfect
flower. :

These views are from the highest standpoint of the
florists’ skill and taste; we give them to show the
thought that has been given the Tulip in the way of
selection, without, for a moment, departing from our
original opinion, that the most natural form is the most
beautiful form. And then, again, are not the florists’
forms simply a selection of natural forms, so long as
they are normal; that is, capable of reproduction by
nature’s own processes? The Late Flowering, or Show
Tulips are classified as follows:

Bybloeemen.—This has white ground, lined, marked,
striped or variegated with violet or purple, only of vari-
ous shades, and whether feathered or flamed, is distin-
guished by the same characters and marks as the Bizarre
Tulip.

Bizarre.—Distinguished by yellow grounds, marked
with purple or scarlet of different shades. It is called
“‘flamed,” when a broad, irregular stripe runs up the
middle of the petals, with short, abrupt, projecting
points branching out on each side; fine narrow lines,

TULIP. 2872

called ‘“‘arched” and ‘‘ribbed,” often extend from this
broad stripe to the extremity of the leaves, the color
generally appearing strongest in the inside petals. A
Tulip with this broad colored stripe, which is sometimes
called ‘‘ beamed,” or ‘‘ splashed,” is, at the same time,
‘‘feathered” also. It is called ‘‘ feathered” when it is
without this broad stripe, but yet having narrow lines
joined or detached, running up the center of the leaf,
sometimes branching out and curved towards the top,
and sometimes without any spot or line at all; the petals
are feathered more or less around the edges or margin,
inside and out; the penciling, or feathering, is heavy or
broad in some, and light and narrow in others, some-
times with breaks or gaps, and sometimes close, and con-
tinued all around.

Rose, or Rosy on White.—Variegated with rose,
scarlet, crimson or cherry color, on a white ground ; and
the feathered rose is to be distinguished from the flamed
by the rules already mentioned; the rose is very often
both feathered and flamed. Of the three classes here
named, the last is decidedly to be preferred ; its colors
are more in harmony with the season; they are spring-
like and cheery, while the others, though gorgeous and
rich, seem better fitted for autumn.

Selfs.—These are the Breeder, or Mother Tulips;
the flowers are without markings, but with a yellow base,
the upper portion of the petals being self-colored, brown,
red, purple, scarlet, white, yellow or rose, with every
shade these colors are capable of producing; it is even
claimed that in this class has been found some that are
black. .

In the four classes it is much better, because
cheaper, to buy mixed bulbs; they are all grown from
named sorts, or, at least, they are mainly so, and will
give as much satisfaction as the higher priced sorts. If
we could have but one class it would be the Selfs, as we

288 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

admire neutral tints; our next choice would be the Rose
Tulips, for reasons before stated.

Single Early Tulips.—The early flowering Tulips
are mostly descendants from 7. precox and T. oculus-
solis, and these vary but little in specific characters.
T. Gesneriana is also accredited with the parentage of
many of the sorts. The fact is, but little is known of
the origin of these early forms. It is sufficient to know
that in this class we have a far greater number of varie-
ties, embracing every form and color, than in the preced-
ing class, and that they are far more easy of cultivation ;
much cheaper, and more showy in the garden. Their
flowers have a dazzling brightness, but are wanting in
that richness and substance that marks the late varieties.
Their earliness is‘a great point in their favor, as a suc-
cession can be kept up for two or three weeks before the
late flowering kinds appear. They are, moreover, very
useful for forcing, either for house decorations in pots,
or for florists’ use as cut flowers.

The nomenclature of the single early Tulips has
been sadly abused; on an average there are, at least,
three aliases for each name, which is, to say the least, a
little bit confusing, although the harm done to the gar-
den may not be serious, but to the florist it is quite
another matter, as earliness is altogether important. A
flower that comes two weeks earlier than its alias, will
give him a profit, while the latter, although exactly the
same, to all external appearances, would prove a loss.
For instance, take the class known as Duc van Thol (of
which we shall make special mention), of which there
are pure yellow, white, scarlet and variegated forms, all
of which are used extensively by the florists for forcing,
few others doing as well for the purpose. For these
many other sorts are substituted, by the Dutch mer-
chants, at the request of their customers. We know
this to be the case, as we have had propositions from

TULIP. 289

them to do it. Last year we had a proposition to fur-
nish about one hundred thousand bulbs for public parks;
the list includcd more than a dozen named sorts; we
presented the same to tho dealers in Holland, who said
they could not furnish the list, and would not try,
because others would substitute the same colors for a
much less price, and would get the order; at the same
time the bulbs would not give satisfaction, because there
would be no uniformity in the period of flowering. The
result was as they stated ; cheaper sorts were used, and
the desired effect of masses of color in contrast was lost.

In the public parks, as well as in the flower garden,
the early forms have a decided advantage over the late
flowering sorts, as they are gone in time to have their
places filled with bedding plants, which last until killed
by frost. The late tulips would not be done flowering
until the season is too far advanced to put in many sorts
of bedding plants, with a fair prospect of success.

The relative difference between the early and late
sorts of Tulips is truthfully stated by Shirley Hibbard,
an acknowledged authority, as follows: ‘‘The Tulips
to which the florists give attention now are late Tulips
exclusively; they can see no merit in the early ones, and
from their point of view, there can be no question as to
the soundness of their choice. The early Tulips give us
none of the rare pencilings of flames and feathers; the
pure white basis proper toa Tulip of high breeding, is
unknown amongst them; and the short Tozza- form,
smooth and evenly expanded, like Hebe’s cup, they can-
not show, consequently, the early Tulips have been
thrown out of the select catalogue, and the lovers of gay
flowers, who care little for fanciful markings that are
very costly, but care much for abundant color at a low
price, may be fully gratified, and, after all, may still
congratulate themselves that the cheap early Tulips were,
once upon a time, valued above rubies, and that only

19

290 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

wealthy persons could sfford to use them for the adorn-
ment of their gardens.”

Varieties for the Garden.—‘n making a selec-
tion for the garden, we should depart from the rule laid
down for the late flowering sorts, and select named vari-
eties, as the mixtures vary so much in height and time
of flowering, as well as in colors, that a good effect can-
not be produced with them. The following are among
the best, and will give every desired form and color:

Artus.—Brilliant dark scarlet, very handsome and
effective.

Brutus.—The earliest scarlet, vivid in color, with
a very slight yellow feather on the edges. A low priced
sort.

Duc van Thol.—Scarlet, is an inestimable bed-
ding Tulip, dwarf, of fine color and very cheap.

Couleur Cardinal.—A splendid bedding Tulip,
haying a most unusual dwarf and rigid habit; the flow-
ers are of a rich dark red, with a vivid crimson feather
on the edges; it is a little late in blooming, but serves
useful purpose in keeping up a succession of bloom.

Belle Alliance.—Crimson scarlet; dwarf, early,
and lasts well.

Canary Bird.—Clear rich yellow; early.

Chrysolora.—One of the earliest, deep yellow,
large and handsome. One of the best.

Keizers-Kroon.—Bright shining red, broadly edged
with deep yellow, magnificent for any purpose ; a bed of
this variety alone is simply gorgeous.

Lac van Rhyn.—Dark violet, silver white margin.

Pottebakker.—Pure white, large, handsome, an
early.

Queen Victoria.—Rosy white, very effective.

Rose Gris-de-lin. —Rose, shaded with white, very
fine.

The list could be extended to almost any limit, but

—

TULIP. 291

the above are all that can be desired by the amateur. A
list for pots and for forcing in the greenhouse will be
found on another page.

Duc van Thol Tulips.—This is a distinct class,
known by the botanists as 7. suaveolens, and is one of
the most generally grown, either in the garden, in pots
in the house, or by the florists for cut flowers, because it
is one of the earliest. The true Duc van Thol Tulip
may always be known by its fragrance, as indicated by
its specific name, swaveolens. The varieties are white,
yellow, scarlet, vermilion and variegated. ‘here is of
it, also, a double form, yellow and scarlet, and if any of
the double forms are to be tolerated in the garden, this
one should have a place; it is showy and effective. Of
this class there are many counterfeits; the varieties of
T. oculus-solis, bearing the closest resemblance, are fre-
quently substituted for it.

Parrot Tulips.—These are not in good repute
with the Tulip growers, who consider them degenerate
forms of 7. Gesneriana, and some of the growers assert
that they are all sports, and that it is not an uncommon
occurrence to meet them in their highly prized named
sorts. Without regard to their parentage, they certainly
have come to stay, as they propagate freely, and remain
true to colors. The so-called Dragon Tulips are the
most striking, in many respects. The petals are curi-
ously laciniated or slashed, the colors rich and varied,
and the form, especially before the flower opens, some-
what resembles the neck or beak of the parrot, from
whence it derives its popular name. They have a strik-
ing and singular effect in the garden, because of their
unique forms and strangely contrasted colors. There
are but few varieties, none too many for even a small
garden. We give them as follows:

Admiral de Constantinople. — Red, striped
orange.

292 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

Coffee Colored Crimson.—Yellow and green,
finely marked.

Luteo Major (ine yellow).—Finely marked with
purple and green.

Rubro Major (Monster Range).— Very large,
bright crimson, extra fine flower.

Mark Graaf van Baden (Markgrave of Baden).—
Red, green and yellow, very showy.

We advise the planting of the named varieties of
these, as our experience with them is, that the mixed
varieties are not mixed; that but two or three distinct
sorts are all that are usually to be found in the so-called
mixtures. As variety is especially desirable in this pecu-
liar class, and as the bulbs are not expensive, named
sorts only should be used.

Double Tulips.—In both the early and late sorts
there are double forms, which are valued highly by some,
not only for their display, but because they continue
longer in bloom than the single forms. The following
list includes the most desirable for bedding purposes :

EARLY DOUBLE TULIPS.

Blanc Bordé Pourpre.—Violet, white edge.

Duc van Thol.—Yellow and red, dwarf.

Duke of York.—Bronze crimson, buff margin.

Gloria Solis.—Bronze crimson, bordered with
yellow.

Imperator Rubrorum.—Bright scarlet, showy.

La Candeur.—Pure white, very fine.

Rex Rubrorum.—Brilliant scarlet, one of the best.

Rosine.—Splendid rose.

Salvator Rosa.—Dark purple rose.

Tournesol Red.—Scarlet, with yellow border.

Tournesol Yellow.—Fine clear yellow, slightly
tinged with purple.

Velvet Gem.—Dark carmine, very beautiful.

TULIP, 293

LATE DOUBLE TULIPS.

Belle Alliance. — White, feathered with violet
crimson.

Bonaparte.—Chocolate brown.

Couronne des Roses.—Red and white.

Marriage de Ma Fille.—Pure white striped with
rose.

Overwinnaar.—White, with purplish blue stripes,
fine.

Princess Alexandria.—Red, margined with yel-
low, dwarf.

Miscellaneous Tulips.—With many the growing
of the species is a pleasing feature in gardening; it mat-
ters not what the plant may be, there is a curiosity to
know from whence our varieties sprung. ‘This is partic-
ularly true of the Tulip. This taste is on the increase,
and we find some of the species quite commonly culti-
vated. Among them are the following, all worthy a
place in the garden:

T. Clusiana (Lady Tulip).—A very beautiful spe-
cies with white flowers, which are pink at the back, and
have a black ring in the center. It was introduced very
early. Gerarde mentions it in 1597, calling it the Persian
Tulip. It is found wild in Italy, Sicily, Portugal and
Spain, and it is highly deserving of cultivation, although
it is somewhat difficult to manage ; it must be grown in
a dry situation, and be protected against frost.

T. cornuta (Horned Tulip).—This very singular
Tulip is more curious than beautiful; the petals are
_ very long and pointed. It is well worth growing, not
only for its remarkable appearance, but also for the long
time it continues in flower. It flowers rather later than
the common Tulips. It is a native of the Levant,
whence it was introduced in 1816. It is perfectly hardy.

T. Gesneriana.—Already described on Page 283,
as the parent of our show, or late flowering Tulips.

294 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS,

T. australis (Celsiana).—A native of Siberia,
flowers star-shaped, deep yellow, flat, opening nearly six
inches across; very fragrant.

T. Greigii.—A species or recent introduction, na-
tive of Turkestan, from whence it was introduced in
1873, by Herr Max Leichtlin, who says the bulbs are so
extremely hardy that they will withstand freezing and
thawing with impunity, and that even when the leaves
are half grown they will endure a temperature as low as
that of zero without any protection. The plant is a vig-
orous grower, attaining a height of from nine to fifteen
inches, bearing a solitary flower from four to six inches
in diameter, goblet-shaped, generally of a vivid orange-
scarlet color, with black spots on yellow ground at the
base of the petals. The foliage is broad, lively green,
heavily spotted with brown. A very desirable species.

T. silvestris.—Of this there are several varieties,
with white, yellow or rose colored flowers, some of which
are slightly shaded with purple; delightfully fragrant ;
common in France and many other parts of the continent.

T. oculus-solis.—This species is nearly allied to
T. Gesneriana, but is easily distinguished by its black
center, which gives it the popular name, Sun’s Eye.
The flowers are always erect, and without fragrance ;
opening so as to forma large cup. Native of Northern
Italy, and some parts of France.

T. persica.—A native of Persia, resembling the
Duce van Thol Tulip.

Cultivation of the Tulip.—We usually consider
the Tulip to be a hardy bulb, capable of enduring
almost any amount of freezing without injury. In our
changeable climate there is, however, some danger of |
injury from contraction and expansion of soil, caused by
freezing and thawing. It is, therefore, better to protect
the bulbs bya slight mulching of leaves, sufficient to
prevent the frost from penetrating the earth below the
base of the bulbs.

TULIP. 295

The Tulip is not at all particular as regards soil; it
will grow to perfection in the light sand of Holland,
and we haye had as large and handsome flowers as ever
grew, from bulbs in the heaviest clay. The only differ-
ence is that a light loamy or sandy soil can be kept in
better condition than a heavy one, and in such there
will be a more rapid increase. In preparing a bed for
Tulips, care should be taken to have it so shaped that it
will shed water, which is a greater injury to the bulbs
than frost. The soil should be worked deep and made
rich. It would be better to plant the bulbs in Septem-
ber; but that is not practicable, as the space they are to
occupy is already filled with autumn flowers, which can-
nut be disturbed until after frost. Therefore, planting
nust ke deferred until the ground is vacant, then put in
the bulbs without delay. If the soil is heavy, put the
buibs three inches below the surface ; if light, put them
four inches below; and six inches apart each way. If
protected, as they should be, rake off the covering as
soon as vegetation starts, as the Tulip is one of the first
plants to appear. It will well repay the cost to throw a
straw mat over the bed whenever there is danger of
freezing, to protect the buds, and remove the mat dur-
ing the day, whenever the weather will permit. When
the flowers appear, if they are protected from the sun by
a light canvas, say three or four feet above the flowers,
their period of bloom will be greatly lengthened. The
colors are generally better when not shaded, but a single
day’s hot sun will greatly shorten their existence. As
soon as convenient after the flowers begin to fade, they
should be cut away and removed from the bed. When
the leaves begin to turn yellow, take up the bulbs and
heel them in for a few days, or until they get thoroughly
dry; a partially shaded situation is preferable. After
they are dry, place them on a shelf for a few days, then
put them in paper bags until time for planting again -

296 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

arrives. The offsets may be planted in the vegetable
garden, or in any convenient place where they can receive
good cultivation, and most of them will bloom the
second year.

Tulips From Seed.—Tulips can be successfully
grown in many parts of our country, from seed, but not
profitably, because of the length of time required to
grow them large enough to flower, which is from five to
seven years. It is, however, a fascinating work. The
seed should be saved from the best flowers, and sown in
light soil in a frame, where it can be protected against
too hard freezing, and from being washed out by storms ;
this should be done as soon as the seed is thoroughly
ripe. The first year, bulbs about the size of peas will be
produced ; these must be grown on in the same manner
as flowering bulbs, taking them up when ripe, and re-
planting in autumn. When their time for flowering
arrives the grower’s curiosity will be intense, and not
without reason; his long years of patient industry are to
be rewarded ; how well or how poorly he is anxious to
know. Fortunate will he be if his Tulips are up to the
average, as not one in a hundred seedlings is considered
worthy of propagation. One thing is certain, all of
them will be sure to please him. Then he must wait
another series of years, from one to five, to see if his
Tulips break into new and desirable markings. Whether
anything remarkable has been produced or not, the
excitement attending the effort will be enjoyable.

Tulips in Pots.—There are no more pleasing
bulbs for the window garden than the Single Early.
Tulips, when well grown, as they can be with as little
trouble as in the growing of any other class of bulbs.
Put three in a five inch pot filled with ordinary garden —
soil; let the top of the bulb be just even with the sur-
face of the soil; water thoroughly, and plunge the pot
in a cold frame, or in a convenient place in the garden ;

TULIP. 297

cover with ashes, or soil, and, above all, protect against
freezing, so that the pots can be reached when wanted ;
bring into the house about the middle of December, and
at intervals of two weeks, for a succession; give them
plenty of light, water and air, and in the ordinary living
room they will come into flower in about six weeks.
After flowering, throw the bulbs away, as they are not
worth the cost of growing on until they bloom again.

Tulips For Cut Flowers.—For several years past
Tulips have been popular winter and early spring flowers.
In the vicinity of New York several millions have been
grown annually; too many, indeed, for the markets
were over-stocked, which made the industry unprofitable.
Many are yet grown, and will continue to be, because
they are well adapted for decorative purposes, and can
be produced cheaper than almost any other flowers. For
this purpose they are grown in precisely the same man-
ner as the Roman Hyacinth. The bulbs are put into
flats as soon as received, or as soon thereafter as conven-
ient, and placed in racks in a cool, dark shed. The first
are brought in about the middle of December, and
forced into bloom by Christmas. A succession is kept
up as required. ‘The following sorts are best for pot
culture or for the greenhouse :

SINGLE TULIPS FOR FORCING,

Duc van Thol.—In variety.
Chrysolora.—Yellow.

Le Matelas.—Deep rose, flushed white.
Pottebakker.— White, scarlet and yellow.
Rose Luisante.—Fine deep rose.

Rose Gris-de-lin.—White, striped with rose.
Vermilion Brilliant.— Dazzling scarlet.

DOUBLE VARIETIES FOR FORCING.

La Candeur.—White, very double.
Murillo.—Rosy white.

298 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

Duc van Thol.—Yellow and red variegated.

Tournesol.—Red and yellow.

There are numerous other varieties used for forcing,
each florist having a favorite. Those possessing the
most positive colors, either scarlet, yellow or white, find
the readiest sale. The same are preferable for the win-
dow garden.

TYDEA.

A section of the genus Achimenes, Page 1.

URCEOLINA.

U. pendula and a variety, awrea, belonging to
this small genus of very pretty bulbs, are found growing
in dense shade in the Peruvian Andes. The flowers are
yellow, tinged with red, and with a bright green edge.
They have strange markings. The variety, aurea, has
yellow flowers, with less conspicuous markings. ‘They
thrive in a shaded border, flowering in summer, but the
bulbs require to be taken up in autumn, and kept very
dry and warm during winter. They are increased by
offsets, the new bulbs pushing a considerable distance
away from the old ones. U. miniata (Pentlandia) has
scarlet nodding flowers.

URGINEA.

The medicinal Squills is obtained from U. maritima.
The cultivation is the same as for Scilla, Page 272.

UROPETALUM.

A small genus of Cape bulbs formerly included in
Hyacinthus and Lachenalia. They have no real beauty,
but are occasionally seen in collections of curious plants.
This genus is now called Dipcodt.

VALLOTA.
See Page 23.

VELTHEIMIA—WACHENDORFIA, 299

VELTHEIMIA.

A considerable genus of strong-growing Cape bulbs,
of little beauty, but remarkable for the duration of their
period of blooming. They are strictly greenhouse bulbs,
and should be grown in sandy loam. They flower in
winter, and require complete rest in summer. Propaga-
tion by seeds; the bulbs rarely make offsets,

VIEUSSEUXIA.
See Morea, Page 235.

WACHENDORFITA.

A genus of strong-growing Cape bulbs, with showy
flowers, very unlike those of most of the kinds of bulbous-
rooted plants. The Wachendorfias can, in fact, scarcely
be called bulbous plants, although they are generally
classed with these plants in trade catalogues, and are
propagated by bulb-like offsets. They bloom in summer,
and their Ixia-like flowers are very showy.

W. brevifolia.—Differing from the, other species
in having evergreen leaves. It must, however, have a
season of rest. ‘The stem is not more than a foot high,
and the panicle is large and full of flowers. The flowers
are of a very singular color, and without fragrance.
The leaves are short and very broad, with deep folds.
This species is worth growing, notwithstanding the
dingy hue of the flowers, from their abundance, and the
compact habit of growth of the whole plant. The lover
of neutral tints would see much in this flower to admire.

WATSONTA.

A large genus of half-hardy Cape of Good Hope
bulbs formerly included in Gladiolus, to which some of
the species are nearly allied. They are all tall-growing,
_ Showy flowers, requiring the same treatment as the Glad-
lolus (Page 116). The flowers are generally very showy,

300 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

but they differ very much in shape, as well as color, some
of the kinds being tube-shaped, others funnel-shaped,
and some salver-shaped. The kinds most nearly allied to
the Gladiolus are the handsomest, because of the large
size of their flowers, and the brilliancy of their colors.
They are rapidly increased from seeds, which are pro-
duced freely, and by offsets. The bulbs should be kept
dry during winter the same as the Gladiolus (Page 115)..

The aphis or plant louse, the red spider, and the
scale insect, may be killed by washing with soapsuds, or
quassia infusion. Fumigation with tobacco smoke is,
perhaps, the best remedy. All insects may be killed
with kerosene emulsion, or with pyrethrum or white
hellebore. The most desirable of the species are :

W. angusta.—Bright scarlet flowers, produced
abundantly in June ; one of the handsomest of the species.

W. humilis.—A dwarf and very pretty plant; the
flowers are large and showy, of a beautiful rose color.

W. marginata.—A very splendid, Ixia-like plant,
with a long spike of densely-crowded pink flowers.
This is the only one of the species with fragrant flowers.
It is a native of the low, sandy hills of the Cape of Good
Hope, where it grows in abundance.

W. Meriana.—A very beautiful species with dark
flesh colored flowers. Named in honor of Sybilla Merian,
a lady celebrated for her skill as an artist and her knowl-

edge as a naturalist.

WILD HYACINTH.

See Camassia Fraseri, Page 52, and Scilla nutans,
Page 273.

WINTER ACONITE.
The popular name of Hranthis hyemalis, Page 86.

ZEPHY RANTHES.
See Page 25. Grouped with Amaryllidacea.

DISEASES AND OTHER ENEMIES, 301

ZYMOTIC OR FUNGUS DISEASES AND OTHER
ENEMIES.

By reason of the large supply of plant-food stored
in bulbs and tubers, the resulting plants are able to
make a very rapid growth, and, consequently, rarely
suffer from attacks of fungi or insects. Hence bulbs
and tuberous-rooted plants seldom require applications
of either dry or liquid fungicides, or insecticides. Con-
cerning the destructive fungi, Dr. Byron D. Halsted, of
the New Jersey Experiment Station, writes in the Amer-
ican Agriculturist as follows:

The Lilies, which may, by right, take the lead
among bulbous ornamental plants, have several leaf
blights, among which are Spherella cinzia, Sacc., Phyl-
losticta liliicola, Sacc., Cylindrosporium inconspicuum,
Wint., and Cercosporella liliicola (R), Sace. But it is
among the rusts that we have more conspicuous and
sometimes destructive species of fungi. Thus, upon
Lilies there may be Uromyces erythront (D. C.), Pass.,
with a wide range of hosts, from the Crown Imperial to
the plebeian Onion; Uromyces lilii, Clint., is a species
found first on leaves of Lilium candidum, at Buffalo,
N. Y., and might be called the American Lily Rust, to
distinguish it from some of the others. T'wo species of
cluster cup fungi are recorded from the Lilies, one #eid-
wum Safianoffarum, Thum., on the Martagon Lily, in
Siberia, and Meidium convallarie, Schm., which flour-
ishes upon a wide list of the Liliaceous groups of plants.
While this is by no means the full list of the fungi
attacking the Lilies, it suffices to show that there are
many enemies, possibly the worst of which is to be men-
tioned later.

The Hyacinth, in like manner, has several destruc:
tive fungi, among which are Dictyuchus monosporus,

302 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

Seitg., closely related to the Pythiums, which are among
the worst enemies known upon the potting bench or in
the greenhouse. osellinia Massinkii, Sacc., thrives
upon the bulbs, whet perhaps, the worst of all, is Bacil-
lus hyacinth, Wakk.,
Trey., which is Ss
as the Hyacinth Disease,
and will be considered
later.

The Tulips have two
species of the rust, name-
ly, Puccinia tulipa,
Schw., and P. Prostit,
Mong., both thriving
upon the leaves. There
is a smut, Ustilago tulipa
(H.), Wint., of the Tulip,
as the specific name indi-
cates. Not the least de-
structive, particularly to
the bulbs, is a gray mold,
Botrytis parasitica, Cav.,
which is closely related
to the Botrytis causing
the trouble among Lilies,
a. known as the Lily Dis-
4 ease. (See engraving.)

} The Narcissus has a
rust preying upon it,
namely, Puccinia Schroe-
theri, Pass., that some-
times is quite destructive
to the Narcissus poeticus.
A rust upon the Crocus is known to science as Uromyces
croci, Pass., affecting the foliage in particular. The
Gladiolus has a rust, Urocystis gladioli (&), Sm., upon

yey

LILY ATTACKED BY BOTRYTIS
FUNGUS.

DISEASES AND OTHER ENEMIES. 303

its bulbs; a rust, Puecinia gladioli, Cast., upon the
leaves, and several blights; as, for example, Spherella
fusca, Pass., upon the foliage. Enough has been given
to show that the bulbous ornamental plants are not
exempt from the fungus troubles that other cultivated
plants are heir to.

Returning now to the Lily Disease so called, we find
it an old destructive enemy. It has been studied exten-—
sively by H. Marshall Ward, who gives it a whole chap-
ter in his work upon Rr a
‘Diseases of Plants.” ie
The same subject was
investigated by Mr. A.
S. Kean, formerly a
student in my labora-
tory,in Bermuda, where
the growing of Lilies
is a leading industry, aus
and the disease is a (eset
serious menace. His
results were published,
with a large plate, in :
the Botanical Gazette BOTRYTIS FUNGUS, MAGNIFIED.
for January, 1890. Professor Ward calls the Lily Disease
one of the most annoying pests that the horticulturist
has had to trouble him of late years. The trouble first
shows itself as small rusty spots upon the buds and
leaves, and by their enlarging the blossoms are ruined.
The engraving on Page 302 shows the upper portion of
a Lily plant, with the four buds badly attacked by the
Botrytis fungus. This Botrytis consists of coarse
threads, which run in all directions through the attacked
tissue, and finally appear upon the surface as upright
branched stalks, bearing multitudes of spores. A mag-
nified view of a section of the diseased tissue is shown
in the engraving on this page.

304 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

This form of mold is common upon many plants,
and at times is very destructive to root crops, as Turnip
and Carrot. The Onion, another bulbous plant, is often
attacked by the same or a similar gray mold (Botrytis).
The multitudes of spores borne upon the tips of the
branches germinate quickly, and, when lying upon the
surface of a Lily leaf, will bore their tubes through the
epidermis, as illustrated on this page. When once inside,
the thread increases in size, and grows rapidly in length,
branching and causing decay as it pushes along. After
the Botrytis fungus has grown for a while it may pro-
duce dark, hard bodies, by a peculiar twisting and knot-

BOTRYTIS ON LILY LEAF, MAGNIFIED.

ting of its threads. These dark masses, or sclerotia,
remain uninjured through the winter, and when spring
comes they produce peculiar trumpet-shaped outgrowths,
as shown on Page 306, which finally give rise to multitudes
of spores. These are set free, and, finding their way to
the young Lily, produce the destructive gray mold again.
These spores, by their large numbers and quick growth,
show how it is possible for the Lily Disease to spread
rapidly. The Botrytis is fond of moisture, and in a dry
season the Lilies may generally escape; while, if the
weather is damp, the destruction may be great. Mr.
Kean suggests, as a remedy, ‘‘The planting of some
other crop in alternate rows, which, with high and

DISEASES AND OTHER ENEMIES, 305

spreading foliage, will prevent the collection of the dew
upon the leaves, and thus check the fungus, so depend-
ent upon moisture for its propagation.”

The Hyacinth Disease proper is ascribed to a micro-
scopic organism, cylindrical in shape, and about four
times as long as broad. Walker, who has studied this
destructive disease extensively, named the germ Lacte-
rium hyacinthi, and brief accounts of the species may
be found in the leading works on bacteriology, as in
Sternberg, under Bacillus hyacinthi septicus, Page 651.
The germs are, in appearance, almost identical with
those of many diseases of a contagious nature among
animals and man. ‘This is only one of many instances
when a species of the higher plants is a victim to the
ravages of one or more of the microscopic organisms,
also vegetable in nature; the Sorghum Blight and the
fire blight of Pears being two other examples. The Hy-
acinth bulbs that are affected with the above named bac-
terium, when cut through with a knife, show small pits
filled with a yellow mucilage. It is in this slime that
the micro-organism in question abounds. At the time
of flowering, the diseased plants in the field show yellow
streaks in the leaves, prominent at the base, and disap-
pearing toward the tip. In these yellow lines the bac-
teria swarm, in a slime which resembles that of the
bulbs. It will be seen that little needs be said in way of
description of the Hyacinth Disease, and there is not
much yet to write as to the treatment. A bulb that
exhibits the yellow slime in cross section would, if set in
the field, produce a diseased plant. The nature of the
malady is such that the application of fungicides for sick
plants, while not without hope, does not promise great
things. Careful watching for the disease and rejecting
affected bulbs are the chief remedial agents.

There is a black rot of the Hyacinth, also found
upon Narcissus and Scilla bulbs, that is probably a first

20

306 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

cousin of the Lily Disease, if not the same thing. It has
the hard, dark masses, or sclerotia, and the other struc-
tures mentioned with the Botrytis (see engraving), and
is probably Sclerotinia (Peziza) bulborum, Wak.

The gummosis, so called, of the Hyacinth, also com-
mon to the Tulip and Ixia bulbs, has likewise been
studied by Walker. The pure white gum pockets are
found mostly between the epidermis and tissue below,

. the starch being replaced
with gum by a process of
degeneration. These gum-
bearing cells may increase
~~ abnormally in size. Walker
wg) concludes that this gum-
©“ mosis and the ‘‘ white rot”
of Hyacinths are the same
thing, and, having failed to
produce the abnormal con-
dition artificially by inoculation, affirms that there is no
indication of the cause being due to a parasite of any
kind. This last trouble seems, therefore, a purely physi-
ological one, and there are many such among plants liy-
ing under the pressure of high culture.

The necessity for uninfected soil and healthy bulbs
is thus shown by Dr. Halsted. In such cases it is also
useful, according to Dr. William C. Sturgis, of the
Connecticut Experiment Station, to thoroughly wash all
implements used in infested ground, to burn all diseased
plants, and, if possible, to burn over the ground on
which they grew. As soon as noticed all diseased plants
should be removed and burned immediately. For dis-
eases of the leaves and other portions above ground,
some of the usual fungicides may be found useful. Dr..
Charles H. Peck, State Botanist of New York, describes
their preparation as follows: ‘The Bordeaux mixture,
diluted to half the original strength, is made by dissoly-
ing six pounds of powdered copper sulphate in ten gal-

BOTRYTIS SCLEROTIUM.

DISEASES AND OTHER ENEMIES, 307

lons of water. Slake four pounds of lime in five gallons
of water. When cool, strain the line water into the
copper solution and add thirty gallons of water, making
forty-five gallons of the mixture. Ii desirable to poison
insects at the same time, four ounces of Paris green or
London purple may be added to this amount of the mix.
ture. The ammoniacal copper carbonate solution, alsa
diluted to half the original strength, is made by adding
to five ounces of copper carbonate enough water to make
a thick paste. On this pour three pints of strong aqua
ammonia, or enough to dissolve the paste. Add forty-
five gallons of water. Paris green should not be used
with this. To make the potassium sulphide solution,
dissolve one ounce of potassium sulphide in two gallons
of water. For larger quantities of any of the solutions
use the same proportions. The treatment of insects by
pyrethrum or insect powder, and by arsenites, and the
remedies for other pests, are given throughout this vol-
ume, in the descriptions of the plants they attack.

For the remedial treatment of tubers and bulbs
affected with injurious fungi, the successful researches
on the Potato-scab fungus, by Prof. H. L. Bolley, of
the North Dakota Experiment Station, are very sugges-
tive. He succeeded in killing the fungus spores and
raised a crop of healthy tubers, by treating the washed
seed tubers to a ninety minutes’ immersion in a weak
solution, one part in one thousandth, of corrosive subli-
mate or mercuric bichloride. ‘Two ounces of this deadly
poison, finely pulverized by the pharmacist, were dis-
solved in two gallons of hot water for twelve hours, in a
vessel not made of metal, and then diluted with thirteen
more gallons of cold water. The cleaned and washed
tubers were then soaked in this solution for one hour
and a half. Caution should be used, as the solution is
poiscnous. The best preventive of all plant diseases is a
vigorous growth, brought about by healthful conditions
of fertility, moisture and sunlight.

INDEX.

ACUTE CS aac winters utclerecera)s spall oie 1
SQ estan Saaceb eas aos onoeeos 3
WEPICCIES sco ances sees seks es 3

PGS 5 oe atte Se ae nae aes Soe ae =

ADGSYS ELODIE 2 seen wow ecios alee 88

African LHies).c o.c.cee occ sacs cee 5

Apa pam hus 225s. soos eco ee 5

PAS IEE Re ores orcs cea ie oare ele esata verve 7

WU) OU0L Gr, ea OIE Ay ee ee ey 9

Alocasia macrorhiza............ 59

AIMICTEV ULI oo Vi 28 = Sas as wacirsens 10
PAS GAMIABUCO Sco vinicie sioleteie'e tos rapohaiate 25
WAaNGIRA 282 oc sks steer S eres Jes 25

AIMINGCHATIS |S: <<: /s les oa eee 26

Ammonia—eopper solution .... 307

FNGT WES Crh ey EY EP tere esas PRO ae em he one 27

PARTNERS ETIRG Gat reeisl Som serore: unaoteinis © 30

JAD R ICO) GA aa ee ope ce 30

INDI OS aia oie. nicte ns tate caress aera 31

PEPIS BOI ot 2 oie lsc shoisrofoin's oe reiaelerials 31

Anna Aly )s.o5.- 5 ceteso sone >< 33, 267

ASGVCRIAS sac peneeies ace eisin ose ea 33

J ACPET OST er a Dit bce Beata Sone Boe se 33

WS AUAAMID = c =. -c cine laces caeeweces cee s 34

ESSN S SLE AU MGs. crete cele amici ee 36, 236

Barbadoes aly: ci. ...c250- ase es 36

ALN ATOUA. 2 cde ss see cemieiee tere ccs 36

Begonia (Tuberous-rooted)..... 37

3elamcandia chinensis. ........ 251

BevlaAGovnea @ilyins so. fos. « welels: stare 36

BEMCSVAL Acs 2. anit tinct aap se reo we 36

ISCSSENA, 5: i -.-,c cae vias Oe walle aes 43

Blanaiordia cca eee echoes oe 44

BPS soho ee ees ee ee 301, 307

Bl OGG: PlOWORS 2s fact ae eee eee 136

BlGUGTOOLS 7.2.2. eee eee eae 271

Blwiebelly.. 2.3. Sacs nace ssee pies 273

Bordeaux mixture ..... nos-deo5e 306

Bob VbiSis icc. Scien c aon eee ee 302, 306

DBE VOA as. ss <-G sae eens seeciee 45

BSE OO UA sane Sie cw Were ite aise 45

HSUUTIS VERSA, ochre csc tae rs, facta 18

HUT DOCOGNUM =. ha < Sei. eS sistas Bohne cs 45

BULEeLily, WGEG2: 5....)o.uss -<rie 33

Wal AGMIMUEY Bebe os icoeiderec cect 46
Bsculentumac... .. occcwe sec cee 60

Caliphinuria S78 soso ca sels saci: 49

Calla tea: care atcca tere bee cece 49, 267
BIDE 2. sees eos sete Sots ae 270
MellOW nine ouisns cax.ced oe stant: 270

WalTOTa soe ees e eae owas ee 49

CalocHortuS:. 02 3casetense ce sereiemetre
Caloscordum ..... Brereriosd a sacty (al)
Calostemma.s. sa. dj.) ne noe: 50
Camassia.. .so.cse, es seeeslese eee 52
ADDN Bess ssseeceesme Sa ciamoseinee 52
Cape Bul bDs.-<% cscs) -aelee eee 166-168
Cape Cows pss 22.2 cee ae eereee 168
Carpolys3.” .).:.2e+seerer eee ere 58
Checkered Wialy-se- eee spEnoen: 92
Chinese Sacred ily <2 ---.--e- -- 240
Chilidanthus 5-22.22... «deme ee ae 58
Choretis © ):cs00% -n252 sence 58
Climbing Lily ...s..2-.e-s- eee 130
Clivia <.02 ccsce pale cles oo nee 58
Coburgia.. 02) cs s.ssecncnce pees 58
Colehic@um..c2 a -icisn ame aie 59
Colocasia «22. 2.2. 202. cece 59
Commelina: «.. 3: wasrecs sees 61
Conanthera.... ise 61
Convallaria: ......: sche seReeee eee 61
Cooperia ... <3 25.3 Ss6e.seeeeeee 66
Corbularia. <i. 2 5i2250- deere 67
Corn Plae. 2.2.20 ec eee - 103
Corrosive sublimate solution .. 307
Crinum. ; 3.3) 52<)-.6 een eee 19
CIOCUS. «2. 3. s3s02 5545 R eee 67
disease........ a: «Swine Sees 302
Varichies 2556-6. ease eee 70
Crown Imperial -.-.. si ae 94
Cummin gia .22e. ce. <6s eect eee 61
Cyanelia, o2i22.66-2 === meee fal
Cyclamen -22-0-2e-- esses =e 72
SPCCIES: 252s. scene SOE eee 75
Cyclobothrac...2..2.. 56s Bisnis
Cy pela. 2... Aenea ese e ae 76
Cyrtanthus <5. 2222.62 eee 76
Daffodil . © ..c:s%2J4eiaeee eee 236
Rush (WN. junerohus)>------- 242
White Spanish... ...+.-...... 243
Dahlia. . ......c22 sete es eee eee 76
cultivation: ..%c5- -esecess see 82
propagation... - 25 see. ae een oe
Single’... .2..5202pes= eee eee 81
SPECIES 6 oe are ctete alee oot eD
Daubenya) ..)-22c.0. -eeee este eee 85
Day FloOWer:..... 2. senae eee 61
Diseases. ........0.23aee eee 301-307
Dog’s Tooth Violet..... Scare 88
Dragon Plant....... FOr cone Ee:
Drimid.. «.:.)..s sss seietensle eter 86
Dutch BulDs. <2 oc. ¢ssssnees eee eee

308

INDEX. 309

TTT VAT Yl. cs cass «5 cdisu Galeate's 267 a ers diseases......... 301, 305-6
IDUTS Bn be eaBersoansodcdca. ol osur ac 86 JOVI 33 eB ss CHR Siena ren 138
INES ees iclors <aisi sicemtctcia elon 301-307 DD WGC GORY => sieve oie'scs.4 2 2 5102 155
IDG) TRV Oe co Reeaceneccedeoron Cotes 86 MERtNGEEC Oo ice obs ei cracs ess os 236
MET ANO SINC r5 2 axe "c(ofeo, alele & «ein sim iaielate sala 169 MELA CUNGUTE S62 she s's<-s ace ce 140
APIOS PCT. 2... cone sacs ele ons 88 PaArdeni CUM. .6 <.<s ss1css a5. 144
MST LNT DUTTA Ce orale a:0)=)s ehnln\e sim siuivie 88 Loui HOLE Lone, Sarin ec ODO RICREO ee bares
MTEL CCUM Ee US A sie )e ia ii. cies einisieetaiaisie’ sles 89 STOWIDS IM POUS ic. 6. c-5- 4s 147
PURER TEMES cf ow tiaiehseiaiaielwiaie claims «ic 90 PUMIMNGSIS lease weisels s/aeisinic ek 306
LUO V OSM tele oie isisioieiescin ai cis! s nahn fole > oF MVS SOUPIE ne daisies so 4 bias cctse 233
INT Wel EC Sees Ses 5 SR cases bce dese 91 WTR Sh gudnos Seobcadec oer enare 236
BS ViGUI Oe BE LOWED. o.tcciciereateie eecicisc 137 Pers] AW ess cols cia cies ces 156
epi I ean Bere eecaneececadsc 25 PLOPArTAWON) oes oer as ese . 143
Feathered Hyacinth............ 236 HAO TEV ad eetsiatetsaieie ania scenes = 153
WG URAEN Rss S25) 50) octs\s 3in/ 010 o,eicie elaine 91 A NTU ITE Bao Chclnet onnancced sanace 236
eH OW GES aia os 3 ais we0}s = one v0 92 WALIGHICS wae scstice secs ce dese 149
ITE abo oasies deh ssid wens. 2 262 varieties for glasses......... 153
Fleur de Lis or Flower de Luce 159 varieties for pots’........... 153
MiremeheUwMlip soos ose. -- <4 scjeeioce. 92 Wihite Capesetcntessccca cack 97
ADRIAN ARES Bie ae ote «5 0:2 \0 wie: wm eile 8 Ad wrecenlk 92 WL oS ocean cafe e Warne stales sts 52
DETR DCTS Fay 0: <fote asa vera evs. s 0 sisays 306, 307 Wild vAMericams..ck.cseses a 51
Fungus Giseases.............. 301-307 | Hyacinthus candicans.......... 97
ATE Ae ay aan bc od orwie os oo! wel sinicl* sarin 95. Evi rO basa. <<)<is.e eis: inieee ves sins 157
GSMA INET iais asic = «eo. 0.5 ce bruise winners Spr Eien GOGAT ose «2c a «ee ae 157, 250
GaP RIG God Bene OCSO0 Deno Ao ae oe Qi EU ORS ca acine sacemos ciacicaista ca ence 158
Cree UO NMA a's nie Voaenciee is weinis os niciaisee Of4) anantophiy Mum. hie. jos. 22 ace 159
Ganymedes (N. juncifolius) .... 242 | Indian Shot...................... 52
OMINOR - SA ona e AEC aS Oe toe es EAE, CMRI Is SEW POS Bio rat 6 Pere Slee me rst 31
IEROTY ONG tte emicitsisiacl sss 5 vip sls Ads PUN GE CUCU ES. ie/aiea miciaiactare ae neces 307
GASTFONCIND occ acswaies asic odie ves BOM INSOCUS camels s cawalcisciessa acca cses es 307
GETSSOMMIZA ates os! ckcksrerarals ala sicie/s'o ie ORAM IIS. amie activ oc\s tra elsia eis wc wrematnalaee 159
RESIN CRA 62 chal of state: 6:</axss yain.crs.a:sie o's sei el 100 Ghaltcedontan....3:2)..- 0s ose. 161
(Eien NCR etce some or seme mpee & 100 Io yOIN ES Nees Sagtoadbonasoraccos 160
CEUACEEO NIG ce teres ay oc) o lars we o areas eferne 101 GOErMam..aecocke asdascewes 163
GEtTeTIOFATION i206 sce e\a nice es 120 JAPANESCse a dccuine vinss wee ce 164
general cultivation of ...... 116 Ween preriya cscs ce sccc eee eee 164
PVEHAS 3c oss acteeisett cols se ee 111 WETSIGIN.. codecs sales aticene 161
propagation by SS tinae beater 115 PEACOCK a5 news hacaatice cee 161
rust.. ae Bee Oe: SHAKES HOA. ic. s cae ce cane oe LOL
selecting seed GE acs 114 Tuberous-rooted............. 163
WEUTRE ULOS 5). vo crsisid wcjeisina’e sem aie POP SISIBON Gi: cacisscowckios oe iseiis es es 157

(EL OIE Ss Se re tr MOOR AERA ct eistercelatal. Some ty ow cneiee sale ee oe 2 166
MeL Gp AUNWT ER a oh wie inre a /elc a iaicla = ae ninieletaicie.s 131 PUMIMOSIS DY an eene soso ce see se 306
Goldemghaly,...-.--:..<.: Aone node P50) MRAOMMPLOMM sc Siew aos cs Sosa sen sete 168
GLAPSUPYACINGBD: 2.0.0 0.. cesiepacieses 256 | Jack in the Pulpit ...... 2c... << 31
Spileted 101 500) | U— pe RO Oe AOE Seer Bl) SRCGWEANMIELY <6. occ ace sc seacse 4 22
AS WME UETN aR overs (ores «3 sick is sieve) ajeur ss ave; oce US) || on thd eo eae cdo coe pene oe 242
POUNCED S o5 of sjciclay\sicc sis, 4.6 ge alae = pba GM EN Al alter s.0 scl /< 6 scclevsietscinerats 168
WEISEL Yih nic emacianiacliswaws Bi PEDO VEOUSIA c <cccleceescieeisice ia aie 169
Guinea-Hen Flower............. 92} Leopard Flower. ..--.....-...... 251
EV 2 DEAINGNOS ter-foisicssic.c clas, 5 e's xioe aes LSM PECUCOGOLY NE han. cherries sae ete 169
PETS TIMMINS Ian otole cicjetaaictclau sislacete ale TSG ELD GEULE cae cis’ eine esinar care nies tareictere 170
Ip toh ge dyed | Laie Aree coor Hecee piarctalaie Laat eM PUTTIN alc wa: « s(-s]olorwieveiee)eialaic’wla wietele ata 171
TUR V LOOM F200 a hcie «i pinta ohana ik eye) IAA BA cone souquacucasnnocEosas 03: 171
PST Cia ns hos ewes oie sinielsnie’s Sinica 137 SOTTO Pacinos caste sncenelosins 189
esp erain tain (oss:esic/s,«s'cis: cme ate tei 137 MESt SOM FO. < ciscus «22 sateen 181
HIESHETOSCOEG OM sige. 's incicg cic < 45 IAG ISDETEYs. secie<ige em = mcicie n= 251
HORA LO TOISKs sts oo wets stance aioe ae 137 @HeEGIKCTOCO. (ls 5. o.0/s come cpa 92
EDI PEAS tH WI Pe 5. Bee oc es ciie ce nic 13 Chinese Sacred....:......... 243
propagation by offsets...... 15 COT NE es ace aierciclamin earn 130
propagation by seed........ 14 GUULUN Vick GROM « sclacaece cece ees 174
MOWMANG BULDS » oe. i s's'c2 cesta os ae! a0 138 TOE TIA pepe SABE Re cinder eee Haas 25
PTOMETA A a2 5 sce aie slain lav e5e sacle de 138 foreing for winter flowers.. 187
HIONCY) GATE. < 2s tetas cicteieniss aes 244 for the garden..........:.... 229
PERV TAD Ns cs ele ciajsy visiorsts ela enclelsiateiniala 138 Golden: Ravyed™ fac. 5. sess 195
blooming in glasses......... 149 NOR: CO PLAN. ~ <ie-ie= <5 sates 183
RPLOENIS.. Sinasisied since sc aaah 1s PAGAN eos canes se an wanna ee 22

d10

BRU UAE OSA, 606 5i05 222s ee enema 49
AAO WA =o oc cc oiaicle aimisisaiateraia 201
AVEOOUUIRG: MILE 6 acc oc ce ce cieietneie'n'a 22
MGUPNATO Vines se cide asain oe 174
GEtne Wiles a. 2 2s6 eres ee = 267
Of phe Valley... .-ccc seen -5- 61
PPANTUET oe sok teins eieleers ans 218
SCaruOrone her sr no oscsiasonise 23
species and varieties........ 195
SVs ty OR ee ecide sasoos saaniodac 226
iver io. cence obis meee one oe 227
Tiger, Double adele oe . 228
wet soil injurious to.. 179
when 16 plant.....-.2s5._.>- 184

TOCHICET os = ee oe oe cecsie o eae one 230

LG tia a ok oases acooreerencadadacd 230

Wiel torn) nib aonodé shannon cooese 49

MASS ONTA Soo oe oo a ilocicew sicincome 230

MeEAdOW SALTON 2.0.26 soca). 231

MoxICan Isls ice <e asses 231, 275
ITIRY enebeendtncegocbcnbede proc 18

MMVEGTENG CLA siseee cece oie esis ai) = alee 231

MN ae ee lo erect e olen tet ou sweats 231

Missour Hyacinth: 22.0.2... 52

Mon fOTEtIB posse oe sealer ce cece 233

Mount Etna Lily ...............: 22

MGUSE AL 8: 2 oboe cals dee aus sete ae 235

Moutan or Tree Peony.......... 255

IMI SCAT iararc sieictuicisic\cle'ces vie sia tee 235

DMAP CISSIIS ois 5 eieiele'e oo cities ole cle tiers 236
Butter and Wges: .. 6... 626 .5-: 238
Chinese Sacred .......... 240, 243
derivation of name......... 244
GHSCASCS. wc ccacce se seas ce ns 302-305
POT CINE OA oss aeeaes oo sete ee 240
WOTASTANG Se oc soso oe noe sees e 243
Hoop Petticoat .............. 242
(triandrus) juncifolius...... 242
ADC TUN NLC yoacm nscale 239, 244
BORIS EE Noelia eecae eeaemet 238
Oly ATi Seen teers ee icie es = 238
RUSTE AVEO cs ccses es cote se 242
PTZ OGU yore isc ciateeis 0 tes e/a ete 26 239

INASP ELIT: oon eee cs eer enee 280

INGETATOSCOLGIUIN ss .c105)e:s'e> lance 244

IERIE caecete torte sete oie later 21, 244

ORILOIE. soa eee store faiarelsee ae 9
My scat os tinietone snteetotee 245

Oporantnus 2-2 +s 2 sels sas sees 244

Orsnh i ope WE ors eda aogen ao cee 244
DOS -CaAieGs per serasiereteelen aes 245

OVEGIGA Boe coe eee eomebeeee nee 169

MOR AIS Sore eet ciyeinicle o wtea trots cette 246

MOB ON TA cloysa c-aisie ais eta oer arel eee 253

AN CV AGUA Coss sci nis nloe oltcive cae 250

WENT ANGUA SS cco aa eecleewaeen est 298

PPC OIUY oie ses oe eee seb cie cients 253
Wine CAVA! -2,).c a1. «3 ewan siete 256
Shrubby or, Pree. 2.25.2... - 253
varieties of herbaceous..... 255

Pernyian, Dattodil aes... ees 157

IPEVTOMBIAG soso ease oa ona 169

PA ZCO TAM ASS ac asie cote o.a\sinjels soles 257

PR AMOCAIIS Bic ee acesin sap ses soneces 76

digs bk) A eee An Sh eam pric 257

PAGS pointers sted viele o ee ae.cie adore 137

PIcarisy-f00iin.c. ss 57s cee ap 33

BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

Polianthes tuberosa, Tuberose. =
Poppy Anemone -2525 02s

Potassium sulphide solution. . "307
Pusehkinia../52-0./-Seereeeeeeeee 262
Pyrolixion,, 3224.00 eee 262
Quamash. «.....5.5252ssstaeeeeeeeeee 52
Queen. Lily2 ceases een 257
Ranun culusisi.-pecae eee AP Soa! 35
Richardia (Calla)...........cs00 267
Rigidella:.:.20.252.s0s0eeeeeseee 271
Roman Hyacinth.........../.... 153
Squill ... 22 eeceeeee eee Reser 7s
Romuela..te--e ose elstiesicceeeeee 278
Rusts . . <i: 22.02 eee eee eee 301-307
St. Agnes Flower..........--.-.- 169
Sanouinaria..2)222-.sen- eee 271
Perret My seree ee FAL A 23
Scilla’ .i:2. 3. tieesee eee eee ach 24%
GISCASC. 250 cc csice 6 hcho aiara aise 305
FYaS@Y i. scsis srs ciclsnjelclae eee 52
Sea Daffodil: J.2. 22. sees eee eee 250
SMUts 2-22 oe 9 wis ola orale eae 302
SNOWGLOP ..2256- se SOE TAN 7 95
Snowflake 2.22 scons sass vce 169
Sow bread .. 2 252525554 esses 72
Sparaxis .....2.20.¢-,0 566 274
Spraying mixtures........... 306-307
Sprekelia <.<<.252 2+ cee eee 22
Spring Snowflake............... 169
Squill’.. 2:22. 5.00see rs eee 272
CHhINCSC iu ined'sines,20' sen eeeeeiee 36
ROMAN 95.055 sense ep espieee ee 36
Syrian: :>..-iscrcee ess eeeeeee 271
Star Grass ...o2.cknencecee see 158
of Bethlehem; .222--eee eee 246
Stenomessoni:: «-5 css. 2s seeps 274
Stern bergia.. <-..3---2s- = eee eee 22
Strumayria «. 2222 osha: i eee 275
Summer Snowflake ............. 170
Tisridia:... = 25.2 ---esee eee 275
Tiger Canna... <.25-,60 72a 57
FIOWEP ese ogc asshasaeenceere 275
Iris .. 22h Sadie oe ee eee 275
Tile. Root;. .2.22c05-0e eee eee 98
Trichon@ Mees seer p cies ies eee 278
Trillium:.2.. -scccees mee cee 278
Triteleia.: . 2ci.23 5252s aeeeee 278
TritOnia=<, «sero .oceer eee 279
Tropolum . 22. cece cee ee eee 280
Tuberose. -..22 3242, 2orciesceeee eee 258
CuITUTC! OF sc2nses) oe eee 260
Peath ss cise.ce236ese ieee eee 260
Pearl, in greenhouse........ 261
Tulip (Tulipa) a ara olor hey aete ate ete 281
cultivation Of -.---sseeener 294
GISCASES «.2c20 aes enon eee 302, 306
Duce -van Tholi ses. esau 291
Early. doubles. -2-2-4-6 see 292
Garden or Show............- 283
Horne 12.2% aco see one eee 293
Lady 2:2 0c00ceetaenasieeee eee 293
Parrots: :.ssccsts teen eas 291
Single early. .: 0. 22s.) sscseree 288
SOil fOr s:....4se-eebese eee ee 295
varieties for the garden.... 290
Tulips from Seed -. <2 2... cena 296
Double forcing........- ccves OOb

INDEX. 311

Tulips for cut flowers........... 290 | VOURMOUMNIE G2 cdekss sos. 2c: Sapte
PUIBPIOES seep eia cree isin im tos ats 296;}| NACUSSCUXUER sc ccern as semanas coe 235
SMI TOLEIMN. 02 e5 on ssc 3 Zot | Wachentorna),)) i acsc/eccasccese 299

OV OREN eer a Nemec ae ois slamiciee Soe cteine © 1g | RWiadkG URO DIN re oucteree sete een « 278

RIRCCOlINGA reas eee ecto BIS 1. WieiS ON occ sates cot aha eons 299

UUTREWUG2 Ceseadodc ocannce ocac oncare 298") Willd: TRV ACIDE <5. <:.</oase oe) onm os 273

WEEOURVCGESe. eaemiecon a sine aici’ cio oie aol) Winter ACONING. 5 ...52552 se=c0se- 86

JET EES 858 se Soigose dapebnes Boe, 1 We OOG Eal yl Satan aa sefow arene 278

Vallota ...... Re Seer cr Baer 23.| ZOPHyTanthes....cesececcseces eee 20

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