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BULBS 
‘Tuberous - ee Plants 


THEIR 


HISTORY, DESCRIPTION, METHODS OF 
PROPAGATION 


AND 
COMPLETE DIRECTIONS FOR THEIR SUCCESSFUL CULTURE 


IN THE 


Garden, Dwelling and Greenhouse 
Ch ALIEN 


ILLUSTRATED 


NEW YORK LE 


ORANGE JUDD COMPANY 
1893 


COPYRIGHT, 1893, 
BY ORANGE JUDD COMPANY 


PREFACE. 


The growing of bulbs to produce flowers in their 
greatest perfection, is a branch of gardening peculiar to 
itself, and one in which the minor, yet important details, 
are not generally understood. It is one of the objects 
of this book to show how the growing of bulbs can be 
made a pleasure, or a profitable industry, by giving com- 
plete cultural instructions in detail. The flowering of 
bulbs is a very simple matter. ‘The bulb, when it comes 
from the hands of the grower, contains within itself the 
food for the future flower, and it does not require the 
gardeners’ skill to develop it. ‘There are a few necessary 
points to be considered, and these we have so plainly 
stated, that many of the supposed difficulties in their 
cultivation have been removed. Causes of failure have 
been explained so fully, that with but little trouble, 
there need be no fear of loss in their cultivation. The 
erowing of bulbs, other than the charms their flowers 
possess, has many advantages over that of any other 
class of flowering plants ; among others, and a very great 
one, is that many of them produce their flowers in very 
early spring, at a season when few other plants are in 
blossom, and yet when flowers are doubly valuable from 
their rarity. At this season, in a sheltered, sunny spot, 
a few clumps of Snow-drops, Crocus and Scillas will pre- 
sent a mass of color, in graceful forms, while the snow 
yet lingers in shaded places; before these are gone, the 
Hyacinths refresh us with their grateful fragrance ; 


1V PREFACE. z: 


these are soon followed by the Narcissus and showy 
Tulips, and all before other vegetation is fairly started. 
In rapid succession follow the Crown-imperials, the Iris, 


-and, before these are gone, the Gladiolus and Lilies com- 


mence their long succession of bloom. Interspersed 
with these is a host of other bulbs, equally valuable for 
their flowers, but whose names are rarely mentioned. 
Another advantage that bulbs possess, is their long period 
of rest, which leaves the ground, half the year, free for 
other plants. The bulbs may be removed from their 
places of bloom into the reserve garden to ripen, which 
makes their places free for the introduction of annuals, 
or other flowering plants. Beginners have an impression 
that there are many difficulties to be met, in the man- 
agement of bulbs, which must be overcome, in order to 
have them produce their flowers to perfection ; whereas, 
in reality, no other plants are so easy to manage, none 
more showy, and none succeed as well under all circum- 
stances, as the different classes of bulbs and tuberous- 
rooted plants. To facilitate reference, the various gen- 
era are alphabetically arranged in this volume, except 
the Amaryllis group, which have been brought together 
on Pages 10 to 26, for the convenience of the reader- 
A copious index will be found at the end of the book. 


C. L. ALLEN. 
FLORAL Park, N. Y. 


iot OF 


Achimenes, 
Agapanthus, 
Allium poapolitanum. : 
Amaryllis, . - 
Anemone coronaria, 
Fulgens, . 
Japonica, . 
Arum dracuneculus, 
Babiana, 
Begonia, Tivperous-rooted, 
Bessera, 
Blackberry aie, 
Caladium, . 
Calochortus, 
Calla or Richardia, 
Callas, Field of, 
Camassia esculenta, 
Canna, 
Convallaria, 
Crocus, 
Crown Imperial, 
Cyclamen persicum, 
Dahlia, Double, 
Single, 
tubers, 
Eranthis, 
Fritillaria, . 
Galanthus, 
Gladiolus, . Z 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


corm half grown, Hit old corm ened 


corm with offsets, 
Gloxinias, 
Hippeastrum, 
Hyacinths, 

Double, 

Roman, 
Hymenoeallis, 
Iris, German, 

Japan, 
Leopard Flower, 
Lilies, 


268-269 


252 
47 
43 

266 


51 
BY) 


Lilies, Bateman’s and Chalcedonian, 


Blackberry, 

botrytis, . : 

Brown’s (L. Browniiyy 

disease, . - : 

fungus, : : 

in Bermuda, Field of, 

sclerotium, . : 

Speciosum Rubrum, . 
Lily of the Ee. 
Milla, 5 % 
Montbretia, 

Narcissus, Group of, . 

Type of Hoop Petticoat, 
Ornithogalum arabicum, . 
Oxalis, 

Pancratium alata 
Peony, Fine-leaved, 

Moutan, or Tree, 
Ranunculus, Types of, 
Richardia, 5 
Seilla, = 
Snowdrop, 

Snowflake, 
Sparaxis, 
Sprekelia, 

Squill, Siberian, 
Tieridia; 
Trillium, : 
Tritonia, . 
Tuberose, onblee 
Tulips, Types of, . 
Vallota purpurea, 
Zephyranthes, 


Bulbs and Tuberous-Kooted Plants. 


ACHIMENES. 


This genus of tropical plants is a very interesting 
one for the greenhouse or conservatory, but of no practi- 
cal use out of doors in temperate or cold climates. The 
species come chiefly from Mexico and Guatemala; a few 
only have been introduced from the West Indies. They 
are, strictly speaking, greenhouse tuberous-rooted peren- © 
nials, six to eighteen inches high, with branching and 
hairy stems. The funnel-shaped flowers, about two 
inches in diameter, crimson, scarlet, purple and white, 
are produced very freely, giving the plants a striking 
appearance. The flowers are delicate, will not endure 
handling, and therefore are of but little use as cut 
flowers. This genus derives its name from cheimaino, 
to suffer from cold, alluding to its tenderness. 

The tubers should be thickly planted about the 1st 
of February, in shallow pans of light, sandy soil, mixed 
with sphagnum or peat, carefully watered and given a 
slight bottom heat. When the plants are about an inch 
high, they should be transplanted into blooming pans, or 
pots, pans eight inches in diameter being preferable ; 
these will be sufficiently large for four or five plants. 
They should he placed in a house where the temperature 
does not fall below 60° at night, and near the glass, in 
order that the plants may grow strong and stocky. 

1 


BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS, 


TYPES OF IMPROVED ACHIMENES. 


x 


ACHIMENES. 3 


Close attention must be paid to watering ; the soil should 
always be damp, but never wet, syringing frequently to 
keep off red spiders; it is better to shade a little at noon, 
if the sun is very hot. When the plants are about five 
inches high they should be tied to small, inconspicuous 
stakes ; in tying, care should be taken to place the sticks 
so that the pan will be a symmetrical mass of green. 
The plants will begin to flower in June, when they 
should be kept partially shaded, and no longer syringed, 
and, in watermg, one must avoid wetting the foliage. 
They will keep in flower several weeks. After flowering, 
water should be gradually withheld, and when the leaves 
turn yellow the pans should be set under a bench, and 
the tubers must not be disturbed until it is time to start 
again the following season. With a little care in drying 
off and starting, a succession of bloom may be had the 
entire year. This may not be desirable, however, as in 
winter there are other plants of interest sufficient to fill 
all the space in the greenhouse. The following are the 
most desirable of the many species and varieties that 
have been introduced and favorably mentioned : 


SPECIES. 


A. candida.—A tall-growing, much-branched spe- 
cies, with pure white flowers. 

A. coccinea,—One of the first introduced, a native 
of Jamaica; flowers bright scarlet. 

A. hirsuta.—Rose flowers with a yellow eye; plant 
hairy. 

A. multiflora.—Many flowered; pale lilac. 

A. picta.—The painted-leaved Achimenes; flowers 
_ scarlet, with a yellow eye. 


HYBRID VARIETIES. 


Advance.—Flowers reddish purple, lighter at the 
eye; dwarf, and free of habit. 


4 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


Excelsior.—Rich violet purple ; very large and free, 
with compact habit. 

Rollisonii.—Flowers large, deep lavender-blue, yel- 
~ low throat, spotted with deep crimson ; very effective. 

Aurora.—Rich rosy scarlet, with yellow throat ; 
very large. 

Diadem.—Crimson-lake, shaded carmine, with deep 
yellow eye. 

Meteor.—F lowers rather large, bright crimson-scar- 
let, yellow eye, spotted carmine ; very dwarf and free. 

Hendersoni.—Rich orange-salmon, with yellow eye. 

Magnet.—Deep orange, spotted with crimson, with 
a distinct carmine zone ; a very free flowering and beau- 
tiful sort. 

Admiration.—Deep rose, spotted with carmine, 
white throat. 

Leopard.—Bright magenta rose, freely spotted at 
the throat. 

Rosea Magnifica.—Bright rose, with a yellow eye, 
very finely spotted ; a charming variety. 

Unique.—Rosy-pink, deep yellow eye, spotted crim- 
son; a very beautiful variety. 

Ambrose Verschaffelt.—Flowers of good size, 
pure white, with a dark-rayed center. 

Madame A. Verschaffelt.—Flowers large, pure 


white ground, heavily veined with purple; a very | 
attractive variety. 


ACIS. 


A genus of very pretty dwarf bulbous plants, suit- 
able for the rockery, in sunny, sheltered situations. 
This genus was formerly included with Leucoium, from 
which it is readily distinguished by its dwarf slender 
habit, the narrowness of its leaves, and the smallness of 
the flowers. They are not as hardy, nor as ornamental, 
as the Leucoium, but are well worth cultivating. The 
best of the species are: 


ACIS. —AGAPANTHUS. 5 


A. autumnalis.—A pretty little plant, with pink 
flowers, produced in autumn before the leaves. Itisa 
native of Spain, and properly a greenhouse plant. 

A. trichophyllum.—A small species, growing only 
a few inches high. The flowers are white, and produced 
in the spring. It must be grown in a frame and pro- 
tected against frost. 

A. roseus.—A very rare species, with rose-colored, 
drooping flowers, produced in autumn. 

Named after Acis, Shepherd of Sicily, Son of Fau- 
nus and the Nymph Simethis. 


AGAPANTHUS. 
African TLaly. 


This splendid genus is noticed because it will be 
expected, from the fact of its being popularly known as 
the African Lily. It does not, strictly speaking, how- 
ever, belong either to bulbs or tuberous-rooted plants. 
This genus derives its name from agape, love, and 
anthos, a flower, Love Flower being one popular name. 
The Agapanthus has been in cultivation more than two 
hundred years, but is rarely met, although one of the 
most beautiful plants to be found for display in pots or 
tubs upon the lawn, or in the border. This is the more 
singular, because it is so easily managed, propagated and 
preserved. It does well anywhere, is an ornament to 
the greenhouse, will thrive equally well in the open 
border, and may be wintered safely in the cellar, or any 
place free from frost. 

All the species grow freely in good loam, which 
should be moderately rich; their great requirement, 
when not at rest, is water; this they must have in lib- 
eral quantities. They require considerable room; com- 
mencing with a single plant in a six-inch pot, it will 
need repotting annually, giving it barely room to extend 


6 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


its stems and roots. The stronger the plant, the more 
freely will it flower, providing it has proper care, and 
all that is necessary is to give it liquid manure, two or 
- three times during its period of growth, with an abund- 
ance of water; it is better to set the pot, or tub, in 
which it is grown, into a larger one, when it commences 
to throw up its flower spikes, then keep the space 


A CLUSTER OF AGAPANTHUS FLOWERS. 


2 


between the two at all times filled with water. Treated 
in this way, we have seen a plant with more than a 
dozen spikes of bloom, some of which numbered more 
than two hundred and fifty flowers. After the season 
of flowering is past, gradually withhold water, and upon 
the approach of cold weather remove to its winter quar- 
ters, where it may remain until time to put it out of doors 


AGAPANTHUS.—AJAX. vi 


for another season’s growth. It is by no means an un- 
sightly object in the greenhouse during winter, because 
of its long graceful foliage; but it should not be stimu- 
lated into growth. Itis propagated by division, or more 
readily from seed, when it can be obtained fresh. Sow 
the seed in the greenhouse, in pans; prick out when the 
plants are three inches high, and grow until the plants 
are large enough to flower, shifting as required. If not 
neglected, they will flower the third year. 

The number of species is quite limited. Although 
quite a number of varieties are offered, the variation 
between them is very slight. The following are all that 
are desirable. 

A. umbellatus.—The type, a native of the Cape of 
Good Hope. | 

A. u. albidus.—A variety with pure white flowers, 
but differing in no other respect from the type. It: is 
quite scarce, and good flowering plants are rarely met. 

A. u. variegatus.—This is well worth growing, 
for its foliage alone. It is not as vigorous a grower as 
the species, but its leaves are almost pure white, with a 
few green bands. It grows freely, though the leaves are 
not as broad or as long as are those of the type; but 
with such a growth of graceful foliage, so beautifully 
variegated, and crowned with an umbel of delicate blue 
flowers, the plant is an ornament to any situation in 
which it may be placed. 

A. u. flore-pleno.—This double-flowering form is 
identical, in all other respects, with the species. We 
have not seen this variety, but it is described as being 
very beautiful, the double flowers being more lasting and 
valuable for bouquets, or other floral work. 


AJAX. 


A synonym of Narcissus Pseudo-Narcissus (Daffodil. ) 


8 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


FLOWERS AND BULB OF NEAPOLITAN ALLIUM, 


ALBUCA.—ALLIUM. 9 


ALBUCA. 


A large genus of uninteresting bulbs, closely allied to 
the Ornithogalum, mostly natives of the Cape of Good 
Hope. There are more than twenty species; they can 
be grown in a frame in the same manner as the Ixias. 


ALLIUM. 
The Garlic and Onion. 


The name of garlic is so associated with the idea of 
rank smell and flavor, and the plant itself is so repug- 
nant to most persons of refined taste, that it seems diffi- 
cult to imagine that the genus contains any species 
worthy a place in the ornamental, or window garden. 
Yet, so far from this being the case, there is, perhaps, 
no genus of bulbous plants which contains more pretty 
flowers than the genus Allium, or flowers of one genus 
which possess more interest, from their great variety, 
as they are quite distinct from each other, varying 
widely in color and size, though still preserving so strong 
a family likeness as to render it impossible to mistake 
them. The genus abounds almost everywhere, most of 
the ornamental species coming from the Cape of Good 
Hope. The following are worthy of cultivation in the 
border and window garden. 

A. Moly.—A low-growing species, producing, in 
early June, a mass of golden-yellow flowers. After once 
planting, it requires no further attention, being perfectly 
hardy; a native of the South of Europe. 

A. ceruleum.—A very pretty and showy species, 
with bright blue flowers; a native of Russia, and per- 
fectly hardy. 

A. acuminatum.—A species common in the State 
of Washington and Upper California. It has deep rose- 
colored flowers, and is perfectly hardy. 


10 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS, 


A. neapolitanum.—tThe flowers of this handsome 
species are white, and are produced in large, loosely- 
spreading umbels; the leaves are rather broad, sharply 
pointed, and of a dark, glossy green. This is a beauti- 
ful plant for the window-garden. Put three bulbs in a 
five-inch pot as soon in the fall as they can be obtained ; 
they immediately commence to grow, and will be in 
flower in January, and keep in flower for several weeks. 
A succession can easily be kept up by planting at inter- 
vals. It is also a desirable bulb for the border, but 
should be slightly protected. Introduced from the 
South of Europe in 1823. See engraving, Page 8. 

A. pedemontanum.—F lowers rosy-purple, large, 
bell-shaped, in large, graceful, drooping clusters; a 
neat little plant for rock work, or for the border, and 
one of the handsomest species grown. Introduced from 
Piedmont, 1817. 

This list includes all the species of real value, 
although many of the others are equally interesting, but 
the onion odor is so conspicuous in them that they are 
not likely to become very popular. 


AMARYLLIS. 


This interesting genus has had a hard struggle to 
establish its identity. At one period it had numerous 
species, and many sub-genera, all very beautiful. One 
by one these have been removed, becoming separate 
genera themselves, until there is scarcely enough left to 
hold the name. Some eight distinct kinds still hold, in 
trade, the old generic name. What is more perplexing, 
when asked how best to manage the Amaryllis, than that 
the reply may be the one adapted to the Hippeastrum, and 
not at all suited to the Amaryllis? In fact, the Amaryl- 
lis is but little known in this country, while its synonyms 
are extensively grown and highly appreciated. Amaryl- 
lis is now simply a trade name for several genera, a pop- 


Amaryllis. 


AMARYLLIS. 


Hippeastrum. Zephyranthes. 
PROMINENT TYPES OF AMARYLLIS, 


Sprekelia 


12 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


ular name applied in the same manner as that of Calla 
Lily to Richardia, or Japonica to the Camellia. The 
genus formerly included Hippeastrum, Brunsyvigia, 
- Crinum, Nerine, Sprekelia, Sternbergia, Vallota and 
Zephyranthes. These, and their species and varieties, 
will be noticed in the above order on the immediately 
succeeding pages, being here grouped together for the 
reader’s convenience. 

The genus Amaryllis consists of but one species. 

A. Belladonna.—The Belladonna Lily. A native 
of the Cape of Good Hope, it is naturalized in Madeira, 
and is also found in Portugal and Italy. It would be 
largely grown because of the remarkable beauty of its 
flowers, if it bloomed a little later in the season, when 
cut flowers are in greater demand, or if it could be grown 
outside, or even inacold frame. Its requirements are 
a strong growth of the leaves, and absolute rest from 
midsummer till the period of flowering, in September. 
The bulbs should be planted in June or July, when they 
are at rest, in not less than seyen-inch pots; the soil 
should be rather sandy and rich, but free from fresh 
manure. ‘The flowers, than which none are more beau- 
tiful, appear the last of August; they are very large, 
white, delicately shaded with pink or light purple, and 
are immediately followed by leaves, which must have an 
opportunity to perfect their growth, without injury 
from frost, or neglect of any kind; if they are not so 
perfected there will be no flowers the following year. 
This necessitates a favorable position in the greenhouse, 
which cannot be provided in commercial houses. In pri- 
vate establishments, the room for a reasonable number 
of pots can be well provided, and there they should be 
found, as no finer objects for decorative Sg sic can be 
seen than these, when well grown. 

A. B. var. pallida.—A variety with smaller flow- 
ers, of a paler color, formerly called Belladonna minor, 


AMARYLLIS.—HIPPEASTRUM. 13 


is now rarely met. Propagation is effected by offsets, or 
from seed; the latter is too slow a process, excepting 
-when the seed can be started without artificial heat. ‘The 
name Amaryllis is supposed to have been taken from a 
famous shepherdess mentioned by Virgil, and distin- 
guished for her beauty. 


HIPPEASTRUM. 


This genus contains more than fifty species, all of 
which are popularly known as Amaryllis. All of them 
are ornamental plants, suited to the greenhouse and 
window garden, or open border, under certain condi- 
tions. But few plants are more attractive in winter and 
spring than most of the species, while the many beauti- 
ful hybrids, gorgeous in color and grand in form, add to 
their many charms. ‘Their flowers have a wide range of 
color, and the most remarkable shades and markings; 
the intensity of color in some of the species is rarely 
equalled by that of any other plant. Some of the flow- 
ers are of the deepest and richest crimson, and blood 
red; others are nearly pure white, striped, mottled and 
blended in the most striking and peculiar manner ; some 
are of a rich, deep orange, boldly marked with white, a 
most pleasing combination of color. Some of the species 
are evergreen. ‘I'he foliage and flowers appearing simul- 
taneously, mark the perfect plant. Some of the hybrid 
forms, as H. Williamsi, are almost constant bloomers, 
a most acceptable feature. See engraving, Page 11. 

No other bulbs hybridize and cross-fertilize more 
freely, and the work has been carried on until the spe- 
cies have become so mixed that plants grown from seed 
of any marked form are sure to produce varieties of 
special merit. Hach year adds to the already large 
number of seedling forms, many varieties so entirely 
different in form and markings, that it seems as if there 
- was no limit to the possibilities of the plants for sur- 


14 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


prises. So common have the seedlings become that they 
are offered in immense quantities by the foreign florists, 
in mixtures, many of them as unbloomed seedlings. 
These we have seen in flower, in large numbers, and 
never saw anything more pleasing. In a house where 
there were several hundred in bloom, not a poor variety 
was to be seen, and some were exceptionally fine; there 
were no two alike. For purposes of decoration none 
other than seedlings need be sought. 

Propagation by Seed.—The seed should be sown 
aS soon as ripe, as it does not long retain its vitality. 
In fact, the seed is, to all appearance, a miniature bulb, 
which does not change form when put into the earth, 
other than to lose the coating that surrounds it, but 
increases in size, like the parent bulb, fast or slow, 
according to the conditions in which it is placed. The 
better plan is to sow the seeds singly in thumb-pots 
of light loam, first securing good drainage; plunge the 
pots in clean sand, or ashes, at a temperature of from 60° 
to 65°. They should be kept in a moist atmosphere, 
and in partial shade. Under such conditions the young 
plants will make rapid growth. They need not be shifted 
from these pots until the bulbs are nearly, or quite, an 
inch in diameter, or until the pots are completely filled 
with roots, which will be in about a year. Then they 
should be changed into three-inch pots, using the same 
kind of soil, or any strong potting mold. In making the 
shift, all possible care should be taken to prevent dis- 
turbing the roots, as nothing else is so fatal to the Ama- 
ryllis as having its roots injured or bruised. Under 
favorable conditions, flowering bulbs can be grown from 
seed in two years. It is a common, in fact, the more 
general, practice, to sow the seed in pans or flats, and 
prick them out when the bulbs are about the size of 
large peas. We do not consider this plan a good one, 
because in pricking out, the roots are liable to injury, 


HIPPEASTRUM. 15 


and the plants will receive a check, which they should 
not have until their natural period for rest, which will 
be indicated by the foliage flecking or turning yellow. 

Propagation by Offsets.—There is but one way 
to propagate any desired variety, viz., by offsets, or 
natural division. Many kinds increase very rapidly, in 
this manner, but great care is necessary in handling the 
bulbs, to obtain good results. It will not do to hasten 
matters; it is best to leave the offsets until there is a 
natural separation; after several offsets are formed 
around the base of the bulb, the larger ones will begin 
to detach themselves gradually, and by the time they are 
nearly large enough to bloom they are but slightly held. 
Then, even, great care must be taken in separating, in 
order to avoid breaking the roots, which become much 
interlaced. The operation should be performed when the 
plants are at rest, by taking the old bulbs from the pot, 
and separating them with as little disturbance as possible. 
Repot the old bulb, with such offsets as do not readily 
part, using as small a pot as will answer, and allow a 
little fresh soil all around the ball. Pot the offsets 
singly, avoiding too large pots; a four-inch pot is suffi- 
ciently large to hold a flowering bulb. Keep about two- 
thirds of the bulb above the level of the soil; see that 
the roots are spread evenly and not crowded or bruised ; 
give them a good watering, and place them where they 
are to remain until they flower. 

Cultivation.—The cultivation of the Hippeastrums 
is very simple; they prefer a strong loam, free from 
decayed vegetable matter, and a season of rapid growth, 
followed by a season of perfect rest, until started again. 
In their native habitat they have a season continuously 
wet, followed by one correspondingly dry. The heat is 
most intense about the time the plants have completed 
their growth and the bulbs are ripening. The evergreen 
varieties require a rest, but must not be suffered to 


16 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


become quite dry; water just sufficient to keep the 
leaves from drooping. ‘The bulbs should remain in the 
pots, when at rest; too frequent shifting, and too much 
pot room, is decidedly injurious. Because the pot is 
full of roots, it is no indication that the bulb needs 
repotting; on the contrary, it is a sure indication of 
bloom. The pots can never be too full of roots, as the 
bulbs flower all the better for being cramped ; it is aston- 
ishing how little soil they require. With good drainage, 
a very little sweet soil, and plenty of clean healthy roots, 
flowers are secured. We notice the species and some 
of the leading varieties. The generic name comes from 
hippeus, a knight, and astron, a star, referring to the 
shape of H. equestre, Equestrian Star. 

H. Ackermanni.—Crimson ; very large and fine, 
the fruitful parent of many of the large flowering sorts. 
A cross between H. Aulicum and H. Johnson. 

H. Ackermanni pulcherrima.—Another cross of 
the same parentage; the flowers are larger and more 
spreading, differing from the species, in the green stripe 
in the center of the petals. 

H. Alberti flore-pleno.—F lowers orange-red, yel- 
lowish toward the base of each petal; full double, about 
six inches across; supposed to be a double form of A. 
equestre. 

H. Aulicum.—A strong-growing species from Rio 
de Janiero; flowers large, deep crimson, green at the 
base, with a blotch of red-purple above the green. 

H. Aulicum platypetala.—Flowers very similar 
to the last, with the tips of the petals green and yellow ; 
bulbs very large; flowers last long after cutting. 

H. equestre-fulgida (Barbadoes Lily).—Flowers 
bright orange, margined with white; very striking. 

H. equestre flore-pleno.—A magnificent variety ; 
flowers nearly as double as the rose, of a rich orange 
color. This and the preceding are natives of the West 
Indies, Guiana and Chili. 


HIPPEASTRUM. 17 


H. Johnsoni (Johnson’s Hybrid).—This is one 
of the very earliest hybrids, a cross between H. reging and 
H. vittatwm, and is still a popular variety ; it is one of the 
most robust and showy, and a wonderful bloomer. 
Flowers dull crimson, with a white stripe down the cen- 
ter of each petal. A good bulb will frequently throw 
up four spikes of flowers. It is popularly known as the 
Johnsoni Lily. 

H. Johnsoni var. grandiflora.—This has larger 
flowers, with broader white stripes. 

Autumn Beauty.—A delicate rose color, retic- 
ulated with rosy-pink, the leaves being striped with 
white, like those of H. reticulatum. 

H. miniatum.—A native of Chili; flowers bright 
scarlet. 

Mrs. Garfield.—This is one of the most beautiful 
of the hybrid forms; a cross between H. reticulatum and 
Defiance, retaining the variegated leaf of H. reticulatum, 
much lengthened and widened. ‘The flower scape rises 
to about two feet, producing from four to five flowers 
six inches in diameter, of a rosy pink color, with a white 
stripe in the center of each petal. 

H. pardinum (Leopard-spotted). — Rich creamy 
yellow, profusely dotted with crimson; the whole flower 
almost fully expanding, so as to leave little or no throat, 
thus revealing the whole of its beauty; the spots have a 
peculiarly rich effect on the cream-colored ground. 

H. pratense (Meadow).—Flowers brightest scarlet, 
sometimes feathered with yellow at the base. 

H. psittacinum (Parrot Amaryllis).—A species 
with green and scarlet flowers; it is unique and beauti- 
ful, and has been the parent of many seedlings. 

H. pyrrochroum (Flame-colored).—Flowers deep 
red, of good size, four or five on a scape; throat shading 
to a greenish yellow. 

2 


18 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 

H. reticulatum.—This is one of the most beauti- 
ful of the species; flowers a delicate, soft pink and 
white, about three inches in diameter; veins darker, and 
giving to the whole flower a netted and interesting 
appearance; scape five or six flowered. Leaves dark 


green, with a pure ivory-white midrib. A native of 


Brazil, introduced in 1677. 

H. solandriflorum (Solandra-flowered).—This is 
a noble species, producing from four to eight long trum- 
pet-shaped flowers, on a tall scape; color creamy whiie, 
greenish on the outside, and beautifully shaded with 
pink. 

H. vittata (Striped).—One of the most hardy and 
remarkable of the species. Flowers clear white, with 
double red stripes on each petal. This is a fruitful 
parent of many of the finest varieties. 

H. reginz (Mexican Lily).—Dark red, with orange 
and white; showy. 

Defiance.—A remarkable hybrid form; a strong 
grower and continuous bloomer, flowering repeatedly 
daring the season. Flowers bright carmine, a vein of 
white running through each petal; very large and firm ; 
one of the most valuable for floral decorations. 


BRUNSVIGIA. 


A genus of handsome bulbs, formerly classed with 
the Amaryllis. The bulbs are very large, and need 
special treatment to bring them into flower. They 
require complete rest during winter, when they must 
not be watered, but during their period of growth they 
cannot well have too much water. They flower from 
June to September, according to the species. The flow- 
ers are large and showy, but the bulb is so large and the 
plants occupy so much room, that they are not consid- 
ered worth growing. There are about a dozen species, 
all natives of the Cape of Good Hope. 


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BRUNSVIGIA.—CRINUM. 19 


B. Josephinee (Syn. B. gigantea).—This is the 
largest and handsomest of the species, and the one most 
generally grown ; flowers scarlet, produced in a many- 
flowered umbel. 

B. toxicaria (Poison Bulb).—Flowers pink, pro- 
duced in a many-flowered umbel; leaves erect and shin- 
ing. The genus is of so little consequence, to other 
than the botanist, that a further enumeration of the 
species here would be of little interest to the florist. 

CRINUM. 

This is a large genus of Amaryllis-like plants, re- 
markable both for the size, number and beauty of their 
flowers, and for the enormous size of the plants. The 
bulbs of the Crinums are of great size and height, the 
flowers springing from the sides of their long necks. 
The leaves of some of the species are of gigantic dimen- 
sions, extending from three to six feet in length, and 
averaging from three to six inches in width. The flower 
stalks of some of the species are proportionately large, 
nearly two inches in diameter, rising io the height of 
from three to four feet, and terminating with a large 
umbel of from fifteen to thirty flowers. The flowers are 
mostly pure white, or a delicate mixture of rose or pale 
red and white, some of them nearly a foot in length and 
from six to nine inches across. Some of the species are 
nearly hardy, and all are remarkably tenacious of life; 
the bulbs of C. capense will remain out of the earth, 
dry, for two years, without apparent injury. Most of 
the species are of tropical origin; they are, however, 
easy of culture, and free flowering, the only objection to 
them being their size, which is not proportionate to 
_ their beauty. They are, however, in many respects 
especially interesting, and when the time comes that 
plants are grown for what there is in them, rather than 
for what can be made from them, in the way of profit, 


20 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


we shall expect to see many of the Crinums pretty gener- 
ally cultivated. ‘There are a large number of species, 
and some hybrid varieties; the following are the most 
important for the garden and greenhouse. 

C. amabile.—The first one in the list is the most 
important, and we do not know of a more magnificent 
plant than this, when in bloom; certainly it has no 
superior in the great class of bulbs. 'Those who have 
never seen it in flower cannot form the least idea what 
Crinums are like, or what their capabilities are. This 
fine species is a native of the East Indies. The bulbs 
are very large, being two feet long, with a diameter 
of from six to eight inches near the base, tapering to 
a long neck, from the side of which the flower stalk pro- 
ceeds. This is about an inch in diameter, and from two 
to four feet in height, terminating with an umbel of 
from twenty to thirty flowers, averaging in length from 
six to ten inches. The outside of the flower is of a 
bright rose color, the inside pale flesh. This will grow 
and flower freely in the greenhouse, with ordinary care, 
if watered freely when growing, sparingly when at rest. 
It is evergreen. 

C. capense.—This species is generally listed in 
the seedsman’s catalogues as Amaryllis longifolia. 
There are two varieties, rose colored, and white. ‘These 
flower freely in the border in midsummer, and can be 
stored like Dahlias, during winter. 

C. Zeylanicum.—This noble species from Ceylon 
is more dwarf growing, but with immense leaves, and — 
clusters of superb purple flowers. It is a greenhouse 
species, but will flower freely with a little care. These 
plants are well worth a place in any collection of plants. 
They grow readily from seed, which should be sown 
singly in pots as soon as ripe, or from offsets, which are 
sparingly produced. This species has often been sold as 
C. ornatum, a synonym of C. Moorei. 


NERINE. 21 


NERINE. 
The Guernsey Lily. 


This is an interesting genus of greenhouse bulbs, but 
not useful in a commercial sense. They are but little 
grown, notwithstanding their remarkable beauty, because 
of the impression that they are difficult subjects to man- 
age. ‘This difficulty would be readily overcome if the 
flowers had a market value. ‘I'he Nerine, to flower well, 
must be grown in considerable heat in autumn, and 
haye as light and airy a situation as the greenhouse 
affords, and must, at all times, have a liberal supply of 
water. The plants must be treated in this way until 
nearly spring, gradually withholding water until May, 
when complete rest should be given them. They will 
come into flower about the first of September, previous 
to which time watering should again commence. This ‘ 
method applies particularly to WV. sarniensis, the more 
important of the species. 

N. sarniensis,—This species is a native of the 
Cape of Good Hope, but has become naturalized on the 
Island of Guernsey, and is grown in immense quantities 
for the English market. There is no bulb more easily 
managed than this, when first imported. If we could 
get bulbs direct, as soon as ripe, say about the first of 
August, and pot them, they would immediately come 
into flower, with scarcely a failure, but we cannot grow 
them later, excepting in the manner stated. It would 
be much the cheaper way to buy bulbs, annually, from 
Guernsey, if they could be had in time. There is but 
little difference in the shape of the flowers, which are 
peculiar to themselves, in the species; the colors range 
from clear pink to brilliant scarlet. 


22 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


SPREKELIA. 
Jacobean Inly. 


S. formosissima (Amaryllis formosissima).— 
There is but one species of this genus under cultivation 
to any extent. This is an old garden favorite, whose 
brilliant crimson flowers are seemingly, in the sun, dusted 
with gold, making them attractive objects. The flowers 
are produced before the leaves. The bulbs should be 
planted as soon as the ground is in condition to work, 
and the flowers will appear early in June. Give them 
ordinary garden culture, take up and store in the same 
manner as Gladiolus, in a dry, dark room, where there 
is no frost. This species is a native of Mexico. The 
variety, S. f. longtpetala, with lighter colored flowers, is 
by no means as showy. See engraving on Page 11. 

S. Cybister, said to be a remarkable species, was 
introduced from Bolivia in 1840, but is now lost. 


STERNBERGIA. 


Amaryllis lutea (Mount Etna Lily.)—A small 
genus of half-hardy ornamental bulbs, producing their 
flowers in autumn before the leaves. They grow readily 
in the border, but should have the protection of a frame, 
in order that they can develop their foliage after flower- 
ing, which they cannot do, north of Virginia, out of doors. 
The really distinct species are: 

S. colchiciflora (Colchicum-flowered). — Flowers 
yellowish-white ; blooming in autumn. | 

S. lutea.—This is a charming plant, flowers a clear 
bright yellow, like very large Crocuses; several appear 
from the same bulb about the first of October. If both 
were protected against frost, they would make their leaf 
growth in the spring. Both species are worth growing, 
even if the bulbs had to be renewed annually. 


VALLOTA. 23 


VALLOTA. 
Scarborough Lily. 


This genus stands quite alone in the world; there is 
but one species, V. purpurea, and that utterly refuses 
to mix, or hybridize, with others of the natural order to 
which it belongs; it defies the florist’s skill, preferring 
to retain the beautiful form and color that was originally 
given it. Forthis we are thankful. While we recognize 
cheerfully the florist’s skill, we are glad that one flower 
is already perfect. See engraving on next page. 

The Vallota is a grand plant for pot culture. It 
thrives under almost all circumstances, but properly 
treated, it has no superior among autumn blooming 
plants. ‘The only care it wants is to be let alone, after 
it is potted. A single bulb should not have a pot larger 
than three-inch size, and should not be shifted to a 
larger until the offsets and roots have completely used 
up the soil, then shift into a pot but one size larger. 
Do not disturb the offsets or the bulbs in any way, until 
a plant of the desired size is wanted. When a six-inch 
pot has been filled, and a further shift is necessary, use 
a seed-pan, which will be plenty deep enough, as the 
tops of the bulbs should be level with the surface of the 
soil, and they will be much easier to handle. It is an 
evergreen plant, but can be wintered in any light room 
free from frost, with an occasional slight watering. 

We once grew a twelve-inch pan of this plant, and 
had, at one time, forty-one spikes, with from five to eight 
brilliant scarlet blooms on each. There are two varieties 
in general cultivation; one has a round, the other a 
flattened bulb, the former giving a trifle larger flowers, 
and a little white at the base of the petals. 


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VALLOTA PURPUREA. 


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ZEPH YRANTHES,. 25 


ZEPHYRANTHES. 


For the open border this genus furnishes some of 
the most useful bulbs in cultivation; they are easily 
managed, requiring the same treatment as the Gladiolus ; 
they should be planted at the same time, only rather more 
closely. Two of the species are continual bloomers. 
They are particularly adapted for open air culture, and 
are, in fact, of but little use, relatively, elsewhere. 
See engraving, Page 11. There are a number of species 
and varieties; the truly useful ones are: 

Z. Atamasco.—A native of Virginia and south- 
ward, where it is popularly known as the Atamasco Lily. 
It is also known as Amaryllis Atamasco ; flowers white, 
changing to light pink, singly on stems about one foot 
high. This rarely blooms more than once in a season. 

Z. candida (Amaryllis candida).— Peruvian Swamp 
Lily. This is one of the most useful of the species. 
The bulbs are small, produced in bunches; flowers about 
two inches across, pure white, on stems eight inches high. 
This is a capital border plant; it forms a solid mass of 
erass-like foliage, and is in constant bloom from July 
until killed down by frost. Its pure white flowers, ris- 
ing just above the bright green foliage, form a striking 
and pleasing contrast. The bulbs should be separated 
in the spring and planted in masses, or as a border, two 
inches apart each way. ‘Take up in the fall, after a 
heavy frost, and store the same as the Gladiolus. 

Z. rosea (Fairy Lily).—This should be treated in 
precisely the same manner as the above, excepting that 
the bulbs should be planted five inches apart each way. 
The two species should be planted in rows, side by side, 
or in masses close together, in order to produce that har- 
mony of color, that white, bright pink and green always 


26 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


affords. ‘The flowers of this species are larger than those 
of the others named, produced singly on long slender 
stems ; color a clear, delicate pink ; a mass, or a border of 
these bulbs will furnish flowers the entiresummer. The 


ANEMONE FULGENS. 


bulbs are one inch in diameter, and increase very rapidly. 
Of the numerous other species of Zephyranthes, but few 
adapt themselves to our climate. 


AMMOCHARIS. 
A synonym of Brunsvigia. See Page 18. 


ee Lt Oe am ES a ore 


ANEMONE. a4 


ANEMONE. 


Of this very extensive and widely distributed genus, 
we shall mainly notice the tuberous-rooted species, which 


TYPES OF ANEMONE CORONARIA. 


are usually classed with bulbs, as they are distributed in 
the same manner. These have been but little grown in 


28 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


this country, as our climate is not at all congenial to 
them, both too hot and too cold, either extreme being 
fatal to them. Where they can be grown successfully 
they make charming plants, producing a mass of very 
gorgeous flowers. ‘They succeed fairly well here, in moist, 
partially shaded situations, or in a frame where the 
tubers can be planted about the first of February, safely 
protected against frost, and where they can also be pro- 
tected against mid-day sun. In France they are usually 
planted in autumn, but in America a better plan is to 
plant as early in spring as they can be put in the ground. 
As soon as the tops die down take up the tubers and 
store in a dry room free from frost. There are both 
double and single forms, and varieties innumerable. 
Either can be produced from seed, the plants flowering 
the second year; it is, however, quite as advisable to 
plant the tubers. 

A. coronaria (Poppy Anemone).—A native of the 
Levant. This is a parent of most of the popular varie- 
ties. The flowers are about two inches in diameter, 
white, scarlet and purple, with ali the variations these 
colors will produce. The varieties make a fine display 
in spring. They can be grown in the greenhouse in 
pots, flowering during the winter, if desired. But they 
seem to be born for the open air, which is their appro- 
priate home and place. (See engraving, Page 27.) 

A. hortensis.—Varying but little from the preced- 
ing; it is also the parent of many varieties, both double 
and single. Many other so-called species are but varie- 
ties of these. 

A. fulgens.—This is one of the most showy species 
of the genus. Its color is of the most intense dazzling 
scarlet that it is possible to conceive. As it is one 
of the earliest flowers of the year, and so exceedingly 
beautiful withal, it deserves a place in every garden. 
(See engraving, Page 26.) 


ANEMONE. 29 


A. japonica.—Although not a bulb or a tuber, 
this plant is so closely related to a prominent class 
of tubers, that it deserves a notice in this connection. 


ANEMONE JAPONICA. 


This hardy herbaceous species is, without question, the 
most useful of any members of the genus. It is an 
autumn bloomer, and seldom expands its flowers before 


30 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


the first of October. The flowers of the species are 
pinkish, or, rather, purplish red, very large, but some- 
what loose in appearance. In the garden they produce 
a fine effect, and will stand considerable frost without 
injury. Of this species there is a florists’ variety, Hon- 
orine Jobert, which is unequalled in beauty by any 
autumn flowering plant in the garden. The flowers are 
large, white, regular and even, with a clear yellow cen- 
ter; it is of taller growth than the species, and fora 
mass in the flower garden is unsurpassed for autumn 
decoration. (See engraving, Page 29.) 


ANOMATHECA. 


A genus of very pretty South African bulbs belong- 
ing to the Iris family, remarkable for the brilliancy of 
their flowers, and for their delicate grass-like foliage. 
The bulbs should be planted in January, and given a 
sunny situation in the greenhouse, where they can fully 
develop their bright green foliage ; if their growth is not 
checked they will commence flowering in May. 

A. cruenta.—The best species; its brilliant scarlet 
flowers are produced in succession, on slender stems, the 
entire season. As a pot plant, there is nothing more 
showy, but it is useless for any other purpose. It does 
well in the window garden. 


ANTHOLYZA. 


This genus of Cape bulbs furnishes some very showy 
flowers, bearing a close resemblance to the Gladiolus, and 
belongs to the same natural order, Jridacew. The great 
defect of this bulb is its lack of adaptation, being 
too large to be grown profitably in the greenhouse, and 
it is not sufficiently hardy to be grown out of doors. It 
may well be placed with that large class of plants which 
are very beautiful but not otherwise desirable. 


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APIOS.—ARIS MA. 31 


APIOS. 


Ground Nut. 


A. tuberosa.—The only species is a beautiful, free- 
flowering, climbing plant, common near the coast from 
Maine to the Carolinas. It grows, when given support, 
from six to eight feet high, producing axillary clusters of 
purplish-brown, very fragrant flowers, not unlike the 
Wistaria, to which it is allied. It is readily propagated 
by division of its tubers, which are freely produced on 
underground stems, and are edible. It is perfectly 
hardy, and when once planted it will take care of itself. 
For a moist, partially shaded situation, we do not know 
of a more desirable climbing plant. 


ARIS AMA. 
Dragon and Arum. 


This genus embraces a great variety of forms, some 
beautiful in flower and leaf, some hideous in flower, but 
in plant most remarkable, as the plant is but a strong 
stem, spotted, and terminal, with but few leaves, which 
are sometimes much divided. Our native species are very 
beautiful in foliage, flower and fruit. They grow in 
shaded places, in deep, rich soil, and of a large size. 

A. Dracontium (Common Green Dragon).—This 
species is abundant in damp woods in many parts of the 
country; it has handsome hastate leaves and green 
flowers. This isa beautiful plant under cultivation ; it 
should be grown in the shade with ferns, then the effect 
is pleasing. 

A. triphyllum (Indian Turnip). It is quite as 
generally known as Jack-in-the-Pulpit, and is well worth 
growing, both for the flowers and its fruit. In a shaded, 
moist situation, it grows much larger than in the woods. 


32 


BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


Se ate EE ee Bey NT hy as ae Te ae a ee 


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aps 


: 


ARUM DRACUNCULUS. 


ARUM. —ARUM LILY.—ASCLEPIAS. 33 


The roots of this species are very acrid; a thin slice 
placed on the naked skin will very soon draw a blister. 


ARUM. 


A. Dracunculus (Dragon Plant).—Growing from 
three to four feet high, with a large blackish-purple 
flower, appearing before the foliage, which is very orna- 
mental. It is a handsome plant for decorative purposes 
when grown in a pot, after the flower has been removed. 
They are very ornamental in the border, and will grow 
with little care, preferring a deep rich soil. Plant, and 
treat as other spring bulbs. 


ARUM LILY. 
See Richardia ethiopica. 
ASCLEPIAS. 


The following species is the only one that is proper 
to include in our list. 

A. tuberosa (Butterfly Weed, from its showy flow- 
ers, and Pleurisy Root, because of its supposed medical 
properties).—This is a hardy herbaceous perennial, 
thriving in light sandy or gravelly soil. Its showy 
trusses of bright orange flowers are produced nearly the 
entire summer. It is a desirable plant for the shrub- 
bery border, where it may remain for an indefinite period, 
without being disturbed. In fact, it should never be 
disturbed, as it is impatient of removal, and cannot well 
be propagated by division. It grows readily from seed, 
which should be sown where it is wanted to grow. For 
purposes of sale it is best grown in small pots, in which 
tubers will be formed that can be handled without loss. 
Propagation can also be effected by terminal root-cut- 
tings. This species is confined exclusively to America. 


ATAMASCO LILY. 
See Zephyranthes. Page 25. 
3 


34 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


BABIANA. 


All the Babianas have handsome flowers, and most 
of them have hairy leaves; the colors of their flowers are 
various, the blue predominating, but so brilliant that a 
splendid display for fully two months of the year may 
be had from these bulbs alone. They are all natives of 
the arid plains near the Cape 
of Good Hope, where they 
are exposed to alternate sea- 
sons of excessive rain and 
| excessive drouth, the ground 
 # during the dry season being 
| so loose and powdery that 
the bulbs often Jie partly 
bare, and exposed to the 
heat of the sun. All the 
kinds of Babiana are propa- 
gated by offsets or from 
seed; the rapidity with which 
they may be multiplied by 
offsets makes this the better 
plan of propagation, partic- 
ularly as the varieties from 
seed are very variable. The 
only place for these bulbs is 
in the greenhouse, as their 
time for flowering is from 
February until May. A light, loose soil suits them best, 
and they require strong light and an abundance of water. 
The bulbs should be planted or repotted about the first 
of December, putting from ten to twelve in a six-inch 
pot; after potting, withhold water until there is an 
appearance of growth, when it should be applied liber- 
ally, and the pots placed in position for flowering. After 


BABIANA RUBRO-CYANEA. 


} 


BABIANA. 35 


all the flowers are passed, gradually withhold water, in 
order that the bulbs may ripen off. When the foliage 
has died down, place the pots in some out-of-the-way 
place, where the soil may remain as dry as powder until 
time for repotting. While these bulbs require the most 
liberal waterings when in growth, there is Soe SO 
fatal to them, when at rest, as water. 

There are an immense number of species and varie- 
ties under cultivation; the following list includes all 
that are desirable. 

B. alba sulphurea.—Rich delicate sulphur white. 

B. atro-cyanea.—Bluish-purple, with white mark- 
ings. 

B. bicolor.—White and blue in alternate petals, 
rich and striking. 

B. disticha.—Two ranked, very striking blue. 

B. fragrans.—Richly perfumed. 

B. pallida.—Pretty, pure clear lilac and white, 
chaste and beautiful. 

B. plicata.—Very fragrant, pale violet, the lower 
segments spotted yellow and brown. 

B. purpurea.—Violet rose, with mauve and white 
markings. 

B. ringens.—Rich purple wide-mouthed flowers. 

B. rosea grandis.—Very fine, rosy-purple and 
white. 

B. rosea major.—Magenta, marked white. 

B. rubro-cyanea.— Rich blue and red, very 
striking. 

. speciosa.—Rich mauve and purple. 

. Stricta.—Beautiful porcelain blue. 

. stricta purpurea.—Rosy purple and mauve. 

. Thunbergii.—Many-spiked, purple. 

. tubiflora.—Rich yellow and red. 

. tubiflora tubata.—Long-tubed, yellow and 


Ww Ww 


white. 


ww? wD 


- villosa.—Dark magenta crimson. 


36 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


In addition to this dozen and a half of the more 
showy species of Babiana, the following florists’ varieties 
. are well worthy of cultivation : 

Attraction.—Rich Syrian purple, tinged with 
white. 

Celia.—Rich rose, marked with white. 

General Scott.— Rich magenta, suffused with 
white. 

General Slade.—Charming magenta. 

Lady Carey.—Mauve and white. 


BABY’S BREATH. 
The popular name of Muscari botryoides. 


BARBADOES LILY. 
Synonym of Hippeastrum equestre. See Page 13. 


HTE BARNARDIA. 
Chinese Squall. 


This is an exceedingly rare genus, which fact shows 
that it is of but little importance in the floral world. 
It was introduced into Europe by Thunberg, from 
China, in 1824. There are but two species, B. scilloides 
and B. japonicum, the former with pink, the latter with 
purple flowers; both delicate and graceful. The leaves 
are broad and long, resembling those of the Ornithogalum ; 
in fact, the latter was called B. gaponicum by Thunberg. 
They require the same treatment as the tender varieties 
of Scilla. 


BEGONTIA. 
Tuberous-Rooted Begonia. 


But few plants have been so rapidly improved by 
the florist’s kindly aid, as the Tuberous Begonias, since 
the introduction of the species from South America; 
and but few are more deservedly popular, either for the 


BEGONIA. aE 


greenhouse or for garden decoration. Upon their intro- 

duction into this country they were not supposed, by our 
florists, to be able to withstand our rare atmosphere, 
drying winds and burning suns. The few that thought 
differently persevered in their cultivation until they estab- 
lished the fact that they would not only endure our 
climatic conditions, but that they were just what these 
plants required for their full development. The idea that 
a low temperature and moist atmosphere were necessary 
to the successful cultivation of the Tuberous Begonias, 
was abandoned during the season of 1892, which was one 
of the driest and hottest known for many years. 

In the nursery row—the proper place to judge of a 
plant’s usefulness—it appeared during that year to the 
best possibie advantage. It showed, also, just what must 
be done to insure success, and that it can withstand ex- 
treme heat and excessive drouth as well as almost any other 
bedding plant. The principal point learned in regard 
to its culture is, that it must be treated as a plant and 
not asabulb. The enthusiastic florist, seeing the many 
good qualities of the plant, has led amateurs to believe 
it could be treated as a bulb, and planted out in the 
same manner as the Gladiolus or Tigridia, and kept dor- 
mant during the winter in the same manner. Thisisa 
great mistake, as the tubers will not endure as long a 
period of rest, and cannot be exposed to the air for a 
long time without seriously injuring their vitality. The 
tubers must be kept in dry earth or sand, until they 
show signs of growth, which will be not later than the 
first of March, then they may be started into rapid 
growth. After the eyes are fully developed the tubers 
may be divided; each eye will make a plant. Then 
they are to be treated in all respects like greenhouse 
plants, and grown on until the proper season for their 
planting out. This is not before the first of June, as 
Begonias are quite sensitive to cold nights, but not at 


38 


BULBS AND 'TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


" Fy 
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SINGLE AND DOUBLE TUBEROUS BEGONIAS. s 


BEGONIA. 39 


all to heat. At that time the plants should be fully six 
inches in height, and proportionately strong. Such 
plants will make a grand display the entire season, rather 
delighting in great heat. This was plainly shown the 
past season on Mr. Griffin’s grounds on Long Island, 
where the strong plants, which were first set, grew vig- 
orously, while the younger stock from seed sown too 
late, failed to grow in a satisfactory manner. Those 
intending to grow Tuberous Begonias from seed, should 
sow early in January. ‘The amateur can start the 
tubers in the ordinary window, and grow them on until 
time to plant out, but to grow from seed will require 
the use of a greenhouse. 

Propagation is effected rapidly and easily from seed, 
which is produced freely ; a single capsule is said to con- 
tain more than one thousand seeds, which, with proper 
care, will produce nearly as many plants. The seeds of 
the Tuberous Begonia are so excessively fine as to resem- 
ble tobacco dust more than covers containing the germ 
of a future plant. And it is well to remark, in this 
place, that the seed produced in our greenhouses or in 
the open ground, is much better, both as regards size 
ahd plumpness, than any we have been able to get from 
England, the supposed paradise of the Tuberous Begonia, 
and the germinating properties are much greater. 

The seed should be sown in the greenhouse in Jan- 
uary, in pans filled with very light soil. A mixture of 
powdered sphagnum, sand, and the finest manure possi- 
ble, thoroughly mixed, is the most suitable. This 
should be pressed firmly down, and the seed scattered 
thinly over the surface. Then wet thoroughly with 
a fine rose, and cover to the depth of one-eighth of an 
inch with the same mixture of soil, or with ground 
sphagnum alone; cover each pan with a pane of glass, 
to prevent evaporation, and give them an even tempera- 
ture of about 70°. This degree of heat is quite suffi- 


40 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


cient, it should not be allowed to drop below 65°. A 
higher temperature will cause the plants to grow a 
dling and weak. 

After the seeds have germinated it is important to 
keep the soil evenly moist; if it is allowed to become 
dry beneath the surface the plants will rapidly damp off. 
It is the better plan to place the pots, or pans, in which 
the seeds are sown, in larger pans of water up to an inch 
below the level of the soil, for a few minutes, which 
will afford the necessary moisture at the roots of the 
young plants, and leave the tops dry, which will, in a 
great measure, prevent the plants from damping off, 
It is an injury to all the Begonias to wet the leaves. 

When the plants have made their first pair of leaves, 
they should be pricked out into shallow boxes, or potted 
singly, in a soil a little heavier than that in which the 
seed was sown. ‘Then grow on in about the same tem- 
perature, shading at first from the midday sun, but 
always giving them an abundance of light and air. Shift 
into larger pots when the ones in which they are grow- 
ing are filled with roots. In this way plants from four 
to six inches in height can be had to plant out into the 
border by June 1st, which is sufficiently early, as they 
do not like cool nights. When a really fine plant is 
secured, it can be increased slowly by cuttings or by 
division, when the young shoots start in spring. The 
specialists in this plant keep all their extra fine and free 
flowering plants for seed purposes, or for show plants, 
and do not divide the tubers for several years. But the 


main supply for garden decoration is kept up by young ~ 


tubers grown from seed. Tuberous Begonias flower freely 
the first year from seed, but for brilliant effects older 
plants are to be preferred. — 

After flowering, the plants will naturally show a 
disposition to rest; they should then be gradually dried 
off, and the tubers kept in dry sand until about the first 


ee a es eT oe eee 


p BEGONIA. Al 


of April, when they may be repotted in arich soil. Use 
pots sufficiently large to accommodate the tuber without 
crowding the roots. If wanted for show plants, the 
pots must be quite large. For a vigorous two-year-old 
plant a ten inch pot will be necessary. If the plants 
are to be transferred to the border, a six-inch pot will 
be sufficiently large to accommodate them until they are 
planted out. For the greenhouse or conservatory, the 
tubers should be started as soon as they show signs of 
growth, which will be early in February. 

Like all other florists’ flowers, the varieties of the 
Tuberous Begonias have been, by crossing and recross- 
ing, increased to a wonderful extent, so that the named 
varieties first noticed have been lost sight of. The fol- 
lowing species are parents of the now popular sorts, or 
classes, both of the double and single varieties. 

B. boliviensis.—Introduced by Messrs. Veitch & 
Son, London, in 1864. It has small drooping flowers, 
of a bright cinnabar-scarlet color. 

B. Pearcei.—So called in honor of Mr. Pearce, 
the collector for Messrs. Veitch & Son; flowers about 
one inch to one and one-quarter inches across, clear 
yellow ; foliage beautifully marbled. 

B. Veitchii.—This was found in Peru at an eleva- 
tion of 12,500 feet, and is one of the most beautiful of 
the species. Its flowers are of an immense size, of an 
inimitable, vivid vermillion-cinnabar red. 

B. roszflora.—aA species of but little value, with 
flowers of a pale red color. 

B. Davisii.—A very dwarf-growing species, with 
scarlet flowers, and smooth glossy foliage. This has 
proved of great value to the hybridists, who have, by 
judicious crossing of this species with other strains . 
derived from the Boliviensis and Veitchii types, pro- 
duced a vast number of varieties, both single and double 
flowered, possessing the characteristics of a remarkably 


42 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


dwarf and compact habit, with moderate-sized but 
brightly-colored flowers. 

B. Frceebelii.icA tuberous-rooted species, intro- 
duced in 1872 from Ecuador; is of a remarkably dwarf 
habit, with small but very bright scarlet or ight crimson 
colored and very showy flowers. This species does not 
ally itself with any other, therefore cannot be used in 
hybridization. It seeds itself very freely when fertilized 
by its own pollen, and the seedlings are mostly true to 
the type, varying somewhat in size and color. 


BELLADONNA LILY. 
Synonym of Amaryllis Belladonna. See Page 10. 


BELLEVALIA. 
The Roman Squall. 


This genus contains but one species, B. romana, 
a native of Italy. This is a very pretty plant, closely 
resembling the Hyacinth; flowers small, whitish, or 
violet, tinged with green. They are of extremely easy 
culture, perfectly hardy, and propagated freely by offsets, 
or by seeds which should be sown cs soon as ripe. There 
is no particular need of this in the garden, its piace being 
already filled by the Hyacinth and the Scilla, which, 
being well known, are more easily obtained, and are, in 
every respect, quite as desirable. 


BESSERA.,. 


This beautiful bulb was first introduced into Eng- 
land in 1837, but for many years its cultivation was not 
attended with much, if any, success. It has recently 
been again introduced into this country from Mexico, its 
native habitat, and has been extensively sent out among 


other novelties. A more satisfactory little plant cannot 


well be found. When treated in the same manner as the 
Gladiolus, it will flower the entire summer, and eyen after 


eg ee ee aed ee eee ey Te yo 


et: 
— * A 


BESSERA, 


MILLA—BESSERA—CALOCHORTUS, 


43 


A4 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


two or three degrees of frost it will continue to furnish its 
heads of graceful, drooping flowers, bright scarlet, with 
creamy-white stripes through each petal. ‘The bulb is 
about the size of a crocus corm, and is readily produced 
by seeds, or slowly by offsets. The bulbs should be kept 
warm and dry through the winter. ‘The Bessera requires 
the same conditions of cultivation, and the same care 
when at rest as the Tigridia. The flower stems are from 
twelve to twenty inches in height, producing an umbel 
of from twelve to thirty flowers, very useful in all natural 
arrangements of loose flowers; they are especially fitted, 
by contrast, to go with the Milla bifiora, with its unique 
pure white flowers and graceful habit. The upper flow- 
ers in the engraving (Page 43) are those of the Bessera. 


BLANDFORDIA. 


A genus of very beautiful Australian bulbs that 
have long been known, and but little cultivated. They 
are exclusively greenhouse, evergreen bulbs, and require 
some degree of attention at all times, for which cause 
they are but little grown, excepting in large collections, 


and where plants are not grown for their commercial 


value. Although the plant belongs to the Lilacea, its 
habit of growth and general appearance more closely 
resembles Amaryllidacee. It is a tuberous-rooted plant, 
in consequence of which, its habit is entirely dissimilar 
from that of bulbs. Its flowers are of gorgeous colors, 
produced on short, strong stems, in regular umbels. 
The plant requires regular greenhouse treatment, and to 
be watered sparingly when not in active growth. Prop- 
agation is readily effected by offsets. There are several 
species, all of the same general character. 

B. Cunninghamii, with coppery red flowers, and 

B. grandiflora, with orange and yellow flowers, 
fully represent the species. 


BLOOD FLOWER. 
See Heemanthus. 


BRAVOA—BRODIHA—BULBOCUDIUM. 45 


BLOOD-ROOT. 
See Sanguinaria. 
BRAVOA. 


This genus contains but a solitary species, B. gem- 
iniflora, a very beautiful and graceful little pseudo- 
bulb, a native of Mexico. It is half hardy, flowering 
freely in the borders, but requiring protection during 
winter. The numerous flowers are bright red, or crim- 
son, borne on slender stalks about one foot high, in 
clusters. The leaves are narrow, produced in a tuft, . 
from the center of which the flower-stalk arises. It is 
rarely seen in cultivation, although well deserving it. 
The plant is propagated by division. 


BRODLAA. 


A genus of very pretty half-hardy bulbs, with small, 
tubular flowers, mostly blue, borne in large clusters or 
umbels. The leaves are rush-like, from two to four in 
number ; the flower stem proceeds from the root, usually 
straight, slender but strong. The species are of easy 
culture, either in pots or in the border. Increased 
freely by offsets, which should be left undisturbed with 
the parent bulbs till they reach a flowering state, when 
there will be a natural division, then separate and 
replant in autumn. 


BRUNSVIGIA. 
See Page 18. | 
BULBOCODIUM. 


These are very pretty bulbous plants, somewhat 
resembling the crocus. There are, in the genus, two 
distinct classes, one flowering in the spring, the other 
in autumn. 

B. vernum.—Among the earliest of spring-flower- 
ing plants, the flowers preceding the foliage; and, like 


Sica air naire i ls. phe ee cae 2 


pen Ries hea 
Pep net ae ene 


ay 


aa 

ala 

“ 
is 
t 


46 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


the majority of bulbs, it delights in a rich sandy loam. 
In such positions it flowers freely and increases rapidly 
by division. When in favorable positions the bulbs will 
increase so rapidly that they should be separated and 
replanted every second or third year. The flowers are 
crocus-like, of a purple-violet color, with white spots, 
usually two or three from a bulb. There is a desirable 
variety, with purple flowers striped with white. 

B. versicolor.—Flowers in August, but is rarely 
seen. In general character and habit it resembles the 
spring-flowering species, which is the more highly 
esteemed because it is a spring flower. None of the 
crocus tribe would be extensively cultivated but for the 
fact of their being about the first to welcome spring. 


BUTTERFLY WEED. 
See Asclepias tuberosa, Page 33. 
CALADIUM. 


The Caladium has but few rivals in the list of orna- 
mental leaved plants, if taken at the height of its beauty, 
which is in midsummer. In point of general usefulness 
it does not rank very high, as it is only adapted for the 
greenhouse. The delicate texture of its leaves will not 
permit of other than the most careful handling, and 


they must have the humid atmosphere which the green- _ 


house alone affords. High temperature, great moisture, 
without direct sunshine, and protection from cold drafts, 
are the conditions favorable to its perfect development. 
The genus is found in the tropical swamps of Brazil, 
growing in soil as rich as decayed vegetation, aided by 
tropical suns, can make it. While the roots cannot 
have too much moisture, nothing is more fatal to the 
foliage than water. Like most tropical plants, it desires 
alternate seasons, or periods, of active growth and abso- 
lute rest. The Caladium is not a difficult subject to 
grow to perfection, when liberally treated. But it will 


CALADIUM. 47 


not tolerate neglect in any form. Its mission is to grow 
beautiful, and grow it will if it is surrounded with con- 
ditions favorable to its development. When it starts, it 
is for the greatest possible size of leaf, and the most 
beautiful and positive markings. These will be secured 
if the plant is in no way restricted ; it must not receive 
a check, either from want of heat, moisture, or from 


FANCY-LEAVED CALADIUM, 


cold drafts ; and while the atmosphere in which it grows 
should always be moist, water should always be given at 
the root, and never on the leaf. I the plant receives a 
check, it will never after make a satisfactory growth. 


48 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


Fine specimen plants can be obtained by potting a 
number of small tubers in a large pot, in case a large 
tuber of a desired kind is not at hand, but it is better to 
pot a single tuber. In potting, soil is of less importance 
than method. ‘The finest specimens we have ever seen 
on exhibition were potted in soil taken from the rubbish 
heap, which was a mixture of everything from the 
greenhouse. Good drainage is of the first importance. 
The tubers must commence their growth before potting, 
if success is to be attained. This will be about the first 
of March; then they should be potted and placed in 
position for active growth. For purposes of sale, the 
large tubers, after getting well started, may be cut into 
pieces, a single sprout to each; these should be put in 
three-inch pots, shifting mto a large size if the growth 
demands it. If the plants can have a slight bottom 
heat, growth will be accelerated. Water should be 
applied sparingly at first, but when the pots are filled 
with roots, too much cannot be given them. Liquid 
manure should be given at least twice a week. As 
growth advances, temperature and humidity should like- 
wise increase. Shade the leaves from the midday sun, 
otherwise give them all the light possible. After the 
plants have perfected their growth, and the leaves begin 
to wither, gradually withhold water, but keep up the 
temperature until the tuber and soil are thoroughly dry; 
then place the pots in a dry, warm place, until the fol- 
lowing spring, when the operation is to be repeated. 

The varieties of the Caladium are almost innumer- 
able, the result of growing from cross-fertilized seed. 
Growing the Caladium from seed is a simple matter. 
Sow the seed in pans or boxes, soon as ripe; prick out 
into thumb-pots when an inch high, and grow on in the 
manner as is recommended for the tubers. Give them a 
rest when they show, by the drooping of the leaves, that 
they require it. For Caladium esculentum see Colocasia. 


CALIPHRURIA—CALLIPRORA—CALLA 49 


CALIPHRURIA. 


The two species that go to make up this genus, C, 
Hartwegiana and C. subedentata, were formerly included 
in the genus Hucharis. They are of the same general 
character, and require, in all respects, the same treatment. 
The flowers are greenish-white, petals reflexed, and the 
tube much deeper than that of the Hucharis. 


CALLA. 
See Richardia. 


CALLIPRORA. 
A synonym of Brodiza, Page 45. 


CALOCHORTUS. 
Mariposa Lily. 


This very interesting genus of bulbs was discovered 
in California, in 1826. The flowers somewhat resemble 
the Tulip in shape, and are popularly called, in some 
places, California Tulips. The colors of the flowers are 
various, white, purple and yellow, with superb rich 
markings. They are free-flowering bulbs, when grown 
in a moderately light soil, not very wet. ‘They are best 
grown when treated in the same manner as most summer 
flowering bulbs, being planted in the open border, when 
the soil is in good condition for working. They look 
best in masses, or clumps, with their colors mixed; in 
this way there is a constant change in the appearance of 
the bed, always some new feature, and during the sum- 
mer, from July until September, a rare display. The 
bulbs should be kept warm and dry during the winter, 
covered with dry moss or sand. They are rapidly 
increased by offsets, or from seed. The latter method is 
rather slow, as they do not flower until the third year. 
If well protected against frost and water, the bulbs are 
best left in the ground during winter. 
| 4 


50 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


There are many so-called species, but what tne 
specific differences are is rather hard to define. Varie- 
ties would seem the more correct term to use. Of these, 
the following are the most desirable. 

-C. albus (Cyclobothra alba).—This is one of the 
most beautiful of this genus; snow white, with a rich 
blotch. 

C. pulchellus (Cyclobothra).—Flowers drooping, 
globose, colored yellow with greenish purple markings. 
See the lower flowers in engraving on Page 43. 

C. purpureus (Cyclobothra).—A very pretty spe- 
cies with purple flowers. 

C. luteus.—Rich yellow, with crimson patch and 
a blotch of greenish sulphur at the base of each petal. 

C. Benthami.—Yellow, with numbers of brown 
spots at the base. 

C. macrocarpus.—Deep purple lilac; peculiar 
and rich. 

C. Greenii.—Fine large lilac, splashed and coy- 
ered with orange; rich and striking. 

C. splendens.—Blue and white; large and showy. 

C. magenteus.—White, marked with rosy red. 

C. venustus.—This is often called the California 
tulip; handsome white flowers, with a yellow base 
stained with crimson. 

C. Nuttallii.—White, blotched with purple. Syn. 
with C. Leichtlinii. 


CALOSCORDUM. 


A very pretty bulb from Chusan, producing its 
umbels of rose-colored flowers, in the manner of the 
Nerine. It requires the same treatment as the Calo- 
chortus. | 

CALOSTEMMA. 


A small genus of handsome greenhouse bulbs from 
New Holland. The flowers are funnel-shaped, yellow, 


CAMASSIA., / 


CAMASSIA ESCULENTA. 


51 


aye BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


purple or white. For general cultivation they are worth- 
less, the beauty of the flowers not being worth the care 
_ and attention it costs to produce them. 


CAMASSIA. 


A small genus of hardy bulbs common in some of 
the Western States, and closely allied to Scilla, or Squill. 
They are entirely hardy, and can be rapidly increased by 
division, or from seed. 

C. esculenta.—The more common species some- 
what resembles the common blue hyacinth, but is much 
larger. The leaves are about a foot long, very narrow, 
and grooved through the center. ‘The flower-stalks 
grow from one to two feet high, and bear large, showy 
purple flowers. The roots of this species were largely 
employed as food by the Indians, the various tribes visit- 
ing the plains for the purpose of collecting them, imme- 
diately after the plant had flowered. The Indian name 
for the species is Quamash. It is well worth cultivating. 
The only Eastern species is C. Frasert, or Wild Hyacinth, 
which is not cultivated. 


CANNA. 
Indian Shot. 


Although the Canna is not a bulb, it is always asso- 
ciated with bulbs. It would seem out of place anywhere 
else, and a list of bulbs would appear incomplete without 
it, as would any collection of ornamental plants. But 
few plants are better known than the Cannas, and few 
less appreciated. Because of the free-growing habit, 
thriving under almost any circumstances, they are gen- 
erally grown without care and in a manner that does not, 
in any degree, develop their beauty or usefulness. To 
have Cannas in perfection, the soil must be worked deep 
and made very rich. ‘They are gross feeders, and enjoy 
moisture in proportion. Although a swamp plant, it 


CANNA. 53 


will thrive most luxuriantly in dry soil, if made rich. 
_ For large groups on the lawn, for planting against fences 
or unsightly places it has no equal in the list of orna- 
mental plants. One of its great attractions is that it 
will grow anywhere, and always ornament its surround- 
ings. The tubers should be planted singly, about one 
and a half feet apart, as soon as general gardening opera- 
tions commence. Whether in clumps or in rows, the 
plants will completely cover the ground, forming an 
impenetrable screen when planted at that distance apart. 
After the frost has destroyed the beauty of the foliage, 
the roots should be taken up and kept during winter in 
a dry warm room or cellar. 

The varieties are readily produced from seed, which 
is best planted singly in small pots, although they seed 
themselves freely, and come up like weeds where once 
grown. ‘This, however, does not apply to the large 
flowering species, which do not seed freely unless 
artificially fertilized. The species are all tropical or sub- 
tropical plants, being found abundantly in the Hast and 
West Indies, Central and South America. One species, 
C. flaccida, is common in some of our Southern States. 
Botanically they are allied to Maranta, Calathea, and to 
the Ginger family. One of the species, C. edulis, is 
extensively grown in Peru and the Sandwich Islands as 
a vegetable ; it also yields a large quantity of arrowroot. 

Many of the species have long been cultivated for 
their beautiful flowers and foliage. Parkinson, that 
admirable gardener, described the method of growing 
them, in a manner peculiarly his own, in his “‘ Flower 
Garden,” published in 1629. There is also an excellent 
copperplate illustration of C. indica, in “ Florilegium 
Renovatum,” published in 1612, showing that the plant 
was highly appreciated in that early day. But few of 
the species are in general cultivation, the labors of the 
hybridist having given us new forms, desirable because 


54 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


of their dwarf habit and ever-blooming qualities. ‘To 
the French gardeners we are indebted for a new and dis- 
_ tinct class of dwarf plants, which are giving a decided 
impetus to Canna culture. Their dwarf habit, hand- 
some flowers, and the freedom with which they are pro- 
duced, are making them great favorites for the conserva- 
tory or greenhouse culture. In color the flowers are 
rich crimson and bright yellow, with all the variations 
that these colors can produce. This class is popularly 
known as Crozy’s Dwarf Cannas. How much credit is 
due Mon. Crozy for originating this popular class is a 
question, as we find in Loddiges’ Botanical Cabinet, 
1820, a colored engraving of an almost perfect flower of 
the variety known as Mad. Crozy, and is there classed 
with the species as C. Aura-Vittata. He is, however, 


entitled due credit for introducing so valuable a class of © 


plants. American florists have taken up the work of 
cross-fertilization, and have already raised from seed 
some of the most showy, as well as the most dwarf, of 
any yet sent out. 

Star of 1891 is an American variety shite of 
special notice. The whole height of the plant does not 
exceed eighteen inches. ‘The flowers are bright orange- 
crimson, and so closely arranged in the spike that it is 
more the form of the Tritoma than the Canna. The 
parentage of these dwarf forms is undoubtedly the species 
found in Peru, prominent among them being C. Aura- 
vittata, as described by Loddiges, and that for garden 
decoration they have no superiors. Of the species and 
varieties, a few of the more valuable for general cultiva- 
tion are: : 

C. iridiflora (Iris-Flowered Canna).—One of the 
most showy of the species, growing from six to nine feet 
high, with long, broad, rich bright green foliage. A 
native of Peru. To flower freely it should have a good 
sunny situation, and a rich soil. The importance of 


: 
i 
ee 
: 


Be a he EDS oe Cale Ore eee ee ee 


aS Cea races 


CANNA, STAR OF 1891. 


5d 


56 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


this species is its supposed parentage to C. Hhemanni and 
others of the large-flowering class. 

C. Ehemanni.—This is a desirable plant, and one 
of the best of the tall-growing kinds. Its foliage is 
heavy and rich. The plant grows from five to seven 
feet high, and is remarkable for its large rosy-pink flow- 
ers, which are produced in abundance the entire summer. 
The roots should be kept in a partial growing state the 
entire season. If allowed to dry out in winter, they lose 
vitality, and if kept moist and rather cool, they will rot. 
If potted and grown in the greenhouse they will flower 
during the winter, and will be dwarf in habit. 

C. Noutoni.—This is, in all respects, similar to 
the above, excepting in the color of its flowers, and 
requires the same general treatment. Its flowers are 
cardinal-colored, very large, and freely produced. The 
plant presents a mass of bloom the entire summer. 

C. robusta.—For the sub-tropical garden, this is 
the most desirable of all Cannas. It rarely flowers, but 
will grow from nine to twelve feet high, producing its 
gigantic leaves, of a reddish-brown color, most luxuri- 
antly. ‘These leaves may be seen four feet in length and 
one and one-half feet in width. It should always be 
found in the center of the group, with Noutoni next, 
outside of which should come the dwarf varieties. ‘These 
form a bed perfect in outline, and one of the most showy 
and attractive that it is possible for plants to produce. 

C. muszfolia (Banana-like). Is a suitable compan- 
ion to the last; habit very similar, differing in the foli- 
age, which is bright green. 

Premices de Nice.—This is an attractive plant, 
growing from three to four feet high, with a profusion 
of bright canary yellow flowers. 

With the Canna, as with most other plants, new 
varieties are being constantly introduced, so that to fur- 
nish anything like a complete list, would simply be an 


CANNA. 57 


impossibility. Of the dwarf varieties, the following list 
is all that can be desired : 

C. Childsi (The Tiger Canna).—The plants begin 
to produce flowers when only two feet high and continue 
blooming very freely till frost. It can also be flowered 
in pots during winter and is very beautiful. The flowers 
are borne in large compact panicles, are of large size and 
perfect shape, with broad petals, and of a bright glossy 
yellow color, thickly spotted with crimson. 

Antoine Crozy.—Flowers deep crimson, light 
green foliage. 

Emile Leclerc.—Flowers golden yellow, mottled 
crimson and scarlet, deep green foliage. 

Admiral Courbet.—Flowers light yellow, speckled 
_ and blotched with orange scarlet, light green foliage. 

Edouard Andre.—Deep carmine flowers, choco- 
late foliage. 

Flamboyant. — Flowers crimson lake shaded 
orange, deep metallic green foliage. 

G. Couston.—F lowers light primrose yellow, mot- 
tled bright orange. 

J. Cardioux.—F lowers brilliant cardinal red. 

Louise Chretien.—F lowers clear yellow, speckled 
and splashed with orange. 

Mme. de Liabaud.—A grand variety; flowers 
deep carmine lake, sea-green foliage. 

Revol Massot.—F lowers carmine red, lower pet- 
als blotched with golden yellow. 

Ulrich Bruner.—F lowers orange red, lower petals 
striped yellow, deep green foliage. 

As flowering plants, the dwarf varieties, Crozy’s 
Cannas, are the most desirable. But for the sub-tropical 
garden, some of the taller growing sorts, particularly 
those with bronze leaves, are by far the most effective. 


BEART fae ern ee ate 


Bf i a 


Perry aoe 
es ro 


58 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PILANTS. 


CARPOLYSA. 


A very pretty Cape of Good Hope bulb, allied to 
and requiring the same treatment as the Ixia. There is 
but one species discovered, the C. spiralis. The flowers 
are produced in an umbel, being white tinged with pink. 
The plant has no real merit for cultivation. 


CHLIDANTHUS. 


This is a very pretty Amaryllis-like flower, bright 
yellow, and fragrant. The bulbs should be planted in 
the same manner as the Gladiolus, but in a dry and well- 
drained soil, as they are impatient of water. The bulbs 
should be kept dry and warm during winter. C. fragrans 
is the only species, and this can only be found in botan- 
ical collections. 


CHORETIS. 
See Hymenocallis. 
CLIMBING LILY. 


See Gloriosa. 
CLIVIA. 


A very pretty genus, represented by one species only, 
C. nobilis, a native of the Cape of Good Hope. It is 
nearly related to the Amaryllis. It isa greenhouse plant, ~ 
and when once established, flowers profusely. The flow- 
ers are drooping, from forty to fifty on a well-furnished 
spike, of a delicate flesh-color ‘throughout the greater 
part of the tube, heightening to a deep red. The plants © 
are increased rapidly by division. They require but 
little care, heat being about the only essential. When 
at rest they can be kept under the stage, or bench, and 
watered only occasionally. © 


COBURGIA. 


See Stenomessen. 


COLCHICUM—COLOCASIA, 59 


COLCHICUM. 


Meadow Saffron. 


The flowers of the various kinds of Colchicum so 
closely resemble the different sorts of Crocus as not to be 
distinguishable to the common observer; the differ- 
ence being a botanical one, and consists in their hay- 
ing six stamens instead of three, and three styles instead 
of one. The species are indigenous in the temperate 
climates of Europe, and are largely cultivated for their 
medical properties. They prefer wet meadows, which 
they often cover with their purple crocus-like blossoms. 
The flowers come up through the ground without the 
leaves, in autumn. The leaves do not appear until 
spring; then they should have careful attention, as, if 
they are cut off or injured in any manner the bulb will 
not make sufficient growth to flower the following 
autumn. They prefer a light soil, which should either 
be protected with a light mulching, after the foliage has 
died down in early summer, or by a growth of some 
annual, in order to keep the ground cool. It is better 
to let them remain in the ground undisturbed for several 
years. Ifaremoval becomes necessary, from any cause, 
it is better to replant with as little delay as possible. 
All the species have the same general character ; a par- 
ticular description of each is unnecessary. 


COLOCASIA. 


Among the species that make up this genus may be 
found some very interesting plants for greenhouse culti- 
vation and for the sub-tropical garden. The genus is 
closely allied to Caladium, and most of the species are 
known under that name. 

C. macrorhiza (Alocasia macrorhiza).—A native 
of the Sandwich Islands, where it is largely cultivated 
as an article of food, and is popularly known as Taro. 
The root-stalks contain large quantities of starch, and 


60 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


furnish a staple article of diet among the natives. The 
leaves are likewise used as a vegetable. A variety of this 
species, C. m. variegata, is an interesting greenhouse 
plant, remarkable for the bold and distinct markings of 
the leaves, consisting of light green and pure white. 
Its cultivation should be the same as the Caladium. 


C. esculenta (Caladium esculentum). This is the 
Tanyah of the Southern States, and was formerly con- 
siderably used by the negroes as an article of food. The 
roots are boiled and eaten like potatoes. The tubers 
increase in length annually by the new growth, like 
those of the Calla, and this new growth is not eaten, it 
being too acrid. The part used is the previous year’s 
growth. This species makes a beautiful plant for lawn 
decoration, either planted singly, in clumps, or for bor- 
ders of sub-tropical groups. Its requirements are a deep 
rich soil, and plenty of moisture. If these are provided 
a single plant will grow six feet in height, with leaves 
four feet long and three feet wide. To secure a speci- 
men of this kind the plant should have a pail of water 
given it every day that it does not rain. The market is 
supplied with the tubers of this species from Florida, 
where it is extensively grown on marshy ground. A 
variety from Cuba is found in the markets, but it is not 
as desirable, as the leaves are smaller and the stems 
purplish. 

C. odorata.—This has large cordate leaves, with 
rounded lobes, and forms a stem-like root, often several 
feet in height. It is a splendid plant for garden 
decoration. 

There are several other species and varieties, but 
there have been so many changes in their classification, 
that much confusion exists in regard to their nomencla- 
ture, the same species being, at different times, called 
Caladium, Alocasia and Colocasia, 


COMMELINA—CONANTHERA—CONVALLARIA. 61 


COMMELINA. 
Day Flower. 


A genus of very pretty native plants, annuals and 
perennials, hardy and greenhouse trailers; common 
throughout the Southern States. The only species of 
value as a flowering plant is C. celestis, which makes an 
excellent border plant. Its flowers are blue, and of 
more intensity than perhaps can be found in any other 
vegetable form. The tubers should be taken up in 
autumn, and given the same attention as is paid to the 
Dahlia, only that in spring they may be planted without 
first being started into growth. 


CONANTHERA. 
Cummingia. 

A very rare bulb, native of Chili, and of difficult 
culture. The plants grow in winter, flowering in April, 
after which they require rest the entire summer. In 
their native habitat the natives use the roots—which 
taste, when cooked, not unlike sweet chestnuts—as an 
article of food.. The flowers are blue, but are not of 
sufficient importance to compensate for the room they 
would require in the greenhouse. 


CONVALLARIA. 
Lily of the Valley. 


Of this genus there is but one species, Convallaria 
majalis, So common in our gardens, and one of the 
most important in the list of florists’ flowers. The 
species is widely disseminated, being found plentiful in 
England, but by far the most common in the province 
of Hanover, Germany, where it completely covers the 
ground, in the woods, and will tignt for possession in 
the cultivated fields. At the time of flowering, the air is 
scented for a considerable distance by the agreeable per- 


62 


BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


LILY OF THE VALLEY. 


CONVALLARIA. 63 


fume. The woods about Hanover, as well as in other 
parts of Germany, are regularly visited on Whit Monday 
by numerous parties from the cities, who go to gather 
these May-flowers (Maiblumen), and the forest, on that 
day, is a scene of festivity and mirth. From the earliest 
dawn to the closing of the day the roads leading to the 
forests are thronged by persons of all ages, and nearly 
every house is furnished with the Whitsuntide bouquet 
of Lilies of the Valley. An apparently identical species 
is found in our country, on the higher Alleghanies to 
the Southward. 

Although not a bulb, its position, commercially, 
entitles it to the same place in this book that it occupies 
with the florist and seedsman in their business, which 
isan important one. The value of the Lily of the Valley 
pips used for forcing, by the florists, is more than 
double of that of any one kind of bulb. There area num- 
ber of florists in this country, each of whom force half a 
million pips annually. So systematic has become the 
method of forcing, that the flowers can be obtained 
every week in the year from our leading florists. For 
this purpose a supply is constantly kept in cold storage, 
at a temperature just above freezing point, and brought 
forward in lots of from 5,000 to 50,000, as the market 
demands. ‘The supply is wholly from Germany, and 
there are two varieties, or, rather, trade sorts. One is 
known as Hamburg, the other, Berlin pips, the differ- 
ence between the two being considerable. The Ham- 
burg pips are larger, and later in coming into flower. 
The Berlin pips are much sought because of earliness, 
the size of the pips making no difference in the length 
of the spike, or the number of bells on the same. 

The difference between the two classes arises from 
the conditions of soil and locality only. Hamburg pips 
are grown near Berlin, and Berlin pips near Hamburg. 
From any dealer in either city both varieties can be 


64 = BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


obtained. Where the soil is very heavy and wet, the 
season of growth will be longer, and the pips larger and 
stronger. This is the character of much of the land 
near Hamburg; but for that market many pips are 
grown miles away, where the soil is of a lighter or sandy 
nature, more like that of Berlin. The pips ripen 
earlier, are not as large, and are, in all respects, like 
those from Berlin, where the soil is light. Pips, for 
market, must be three years old, to produce satisfactory 
spikes of bloom. In a heavy soil, pips two years old will 
be as large as those, grown in a lighter soil, will become 
in three years, but they will not do for the florist, as the 
spikes will contain but half as many bells as they should. 
T'wo-years-old pips are often sent to this market; they 
have sold well, because they look well, but the results 
were disappointing, and the fault has generally been laid 
to the grower, when it is due to those who wish to sell 
cheap. 

The perfection of soil for pips would be a rather 
heavy loam, made rich, and the location should be on a 
southern slope, where it would be dry, warm and airy. 
There the pips would grow strong and ripen quickly, 
consequently they would get sufficient rest to force early. 
Such a condition of soil and climate is found in some of 
the valleys of the Harz mountains, where the Lily of the 
Valley is extensively grown, and for early forcing there 
is none better, if as good. These pips bring the highest 
price of any in the market. In other words, the dealers 
charge a higher price for these than for any others, 
simply because they are better, although the Hamburg 
merchant is very careful not to mention locality as the 
cause of good pips, prefering his own reputation to 
stand for that. In evidence of this we would say, that 
one of the largest and most successful florists, near New 
York, last year tried, as an experiment, twenty-five - 
thousand of these pips, and they gave him nincty-five 


CONVALLARIA. 65 


per cent. of perfect flowers in December, something pre- 
viously unheard of in the culture of this flower, at that 
season. This result came because the pips had their 
needed rest after being fully matured and ripened. Had 
they been four weeks longer in growing, as they are in 
some other localities, they would not have endured the 
forcing necessary to produce early flowers. Pips grown 
where they mature later, are equally as good for late 
winter or spring flowers, and better for very late flowers, 
after having been in cold storage. 

The culture of the Lily of the Valley is simple, yet, 
if not understood, failure will surely result. The 
method generally pursued is to place the pips in shallow 
boxes, say four inches deep, although three inches is 
quite sufficient, in soil or sphagnum, it matters but little 
what, as the pips do not throw out new roots, but sub- 
sist wholly on the food stored up in their growth, and 
the water given during the forcing period. One inch 
apart each way is sufficient space; some grow them 
even closer, but we should not recommend it. The best 
way is to set the flat, or box, on the bench, at an angle 
of about forty-five degrees, put half an inch of soil, or 
moss, or a mixture of both, at the end, then a row of 
pips, and alternate one inch apart, until the box is filled; 
the top of the pip should be but little below the surface. 
When full, water thoroughly. Place the boxes, as filled, 
in a cold frame or shed, where they can have a little 
frost, but not severe freezing. Some mulching should 
be thrown over the tops, to prevent freezing, as well as 
to keep the air from them. They should remain in this 
condition, at least, four weeks, when they may be 
brought into the forcing house as wanted. The putting 
of the pips into the boxes should commence as soon as 
they arrive from Hurope, as they are liable to get heated, 
more or less, in passage, which starts them into growth. 
The longer they remain unpacked, unless they are placed 


66 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


in cold storage, where they cannot start, the more dan- 
ger there is of their starting, and if started before they 
are put into boxes they will not perfect their flowers. 

A wide difference of opinion exists as to the temper- 
ature into which they should be placed. But the most 
approved plan seems to be to start them in a low temper- 
ature, say from 50° to 60°, and running it up as high as 
90° before they come into flower; after that place them 
in a cooler house, say from 60° to 70°, to harden off. 
Most growers keep them dark until considerable growth 
is made, to draw them up as much as possible. We 
have seen them flower to perfection when the boxes were 
placed underneath the benches, on the pips, bringing 
them into full light after the first bells were opened. 
But good strong spikes of bloom are best obtained when 
they have plenty of light and air, and with a temperature 
of 85° to 90° after they are first started. 

They may be started and flowered in pots very suc- 
cessfully, by following the same course of treatment 
from the start. Twenty-five pips can be grown in a 
seven-inch pot, and, when they are well grown, they 
meet a ready sale in the markets. Although there is 
but one species, there are several varieties, among them 
a pink-flowered sort, and a double-flowered variety, 
neither being useful nor beautiful. 


COOPERIA. 


A genus of bulbs allied to the Zephyranthes, but of 
larger bulb, stronger habit of growth, and producing 
larger flowers. The flowers are mostly white, and they 
open quite flat, always first expanding at night, but 
when once open they remain until the petals fall. They 
are, properly, winter-flowering plants, and it is difficult 
to keep the bulbs in a condition for summer flowering. 

C. pedunculata.—Decidedly the best of the species 
for the garden ; its flowers are produced solitary, but in 


CORBULARIA—CRINUM—CROCUS. 67 


succession, so that a clump of them will be in continu- 
ous bloom from June until September. They can be 
increased rapidly from seeds or from offsets. The bulbs 
must be kept dry and cool, but away from frost during 
winter, and planted with other summer flowering bulbs 
in spring. ‘They also flower well during winter in the 
house, but they will not there take the place of winter- 
flowering bulbs. 


CORBULARIA. 
A synonym for Narcissus Bulbocodium. 
CRINUM. 
See Page 19. 
CROCUS. 


This well-known genus of early spring and autumn 
flowers contains about ninety distinct species, but few of 
which, however, are now included among our garden 
flowers. The many choice varieties which are the results 
of hybridization, have taken the place of the species. ~ 
The crocus is divided into two distinct classes, the spring 
and the autumn flowering. ‘The spring-flowering crocus, 
Crocus versicolor, is of the easiest culture ; but it is well 
to remark, that the too common practice of putting 
them into poor and badly prepared ground, is simply 
doing them great injustice. While they will flower with 
little or no care, they amply repay the best possible 
attention ; a well-prepared bed of deep rich soil is their 
delight. In such a soil the number of flowers will, at 
least, be doubled, and their size materially increased. 
They also want a dry situation; one where water stands 
during winter is fatal to the solid bulb or corm. 

Many complaints are made by amateurs of their 
Crocuses not flowering; there is really but one cause of 
failure when a new bed is made, and newly imported 
corms are planted ; that is, the work is too long delayed. 


68 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


If Crocuses are to be planted at all, they must be planted 
at the proper time, which is as soon as the corms can be 
procured in the autumn after their arrival from Europe. 
They usually commence growth by the first of Septem- 


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we 


SPRING FLOWERING CROCUS. 


ber, and if planting is long deferred the germ is 
destroyed ; for grow they will, whether in or out of the 
soil. Planting should not be deferred later than the 
first of October, if the best results are to be attained. 


CROCUS. 69 


The corms should be planted, at least, three inches deep, 
for as the new corms form above or beyond the old ones, 
they will, in a few years, push themselves out of the 
ground if planted too near the surface. The corms may 
remain where planted for three or four years, without 
removal, or as long as they continue to flower well. 
When a change becomes necessary, take up and replant 
the same day if possible, and do it as soon as convenient 
after the foliage has dried up. 

One of the peculiarities of Crocuses is, that when 
they are in flower the seed-vessel is still under ground, 
almost close to the corm; and it is not till some weeks 
after the flower has decayed that it emerges, on a white 
peduncle, and ripens its seeds above the ground. Cro- 
cuses should not be planted in a shaded situation, as 
they require full sunlight to mature their foliage, upon 
which their next season’s flowering depends. In plant- 
ing them, there are two important considerations ; the 
first is situation. Shade must ever be avoided, for with- 
out sunshine the Crocus is without a home. Select 
some warm cozy corner, where the sun delights to linger, 
and there plant the corms. ‘The next consideration is 
selection, and that is, in a large measure, a matter of 
taste. The quality of the corms, however, is very im- 
portant, and should, im all cases, be of the best. We — 
always advise the planting of named varieties; not that 
a plant is any better for its having a name, but for 
the fact that small-sized inferior bulbs are put into the 
mixtures, while the best bulbs are sold under names. And 
it is as well to remark here that the Dutch bulb-growers 
do not grow anything in mixture; everything is under 
name, and mixtures are of surplus stock and second 
quality of bulbs. Color, and arrangement in planting, 
is a matter of choice. Having determined upon that, 
select the best bulbs to secure your object. <A few of 
the best are : 


"0 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


White.—Mont Blanc, La Neige, and Queen Vic- 
toria. 

Yellow.—Large Yellow, Largest Size. 

Blue.—Large Blue, and Lord Palmerston. 

Purple.—In this class the blues might have been 
placed, as a really blue crocus does not exist; those 
named simply approach the blue. Purple with white 
markings, white and yellow are the predominating col- 
ors of the crocus, and these contrast finely together, 
The best purples are: 

Large Purple.—Chas. Dickens, Sir John Frank- 
lin, and Othello. 

The following are fine marked and striped, and are 
remarkable for the size of their flowers. 

General Garibaldi.—White, striped with purple. 

La Majesteuse.—Large, violet-striped, on a deli- 
cately tinted very firm ground. 

Ne Plus Ultra.—Blue, with white border. 

Lady Stanhope.—Violet, light border. 

Pride of Albion.—Very large and fine, white, 
striped with lilac. | 

Sir Walter Scott.—Finely striped, purple and 
white, one of the best. 

Prince of Wales.—Violet and white. 

The Crocus for the Window Garden.—The 
Crocus does admirably as a pot plant, but to insure suc- 
cess the corms should be planted, five or six in a five- 
inch pot, as soon as they can be obtained in autumn. 
Plunge the pots in coal ashes outside until they are filled 
with roots, which will be by the first of December, when 
they may be brought into the house, gradually bringing 
them to the light, but at no time giving them heat. 
Full light and a temperature not above 50°, will bring 
them into flower, each bulb giving several blooms. High 
temperature will surely blast the flowers. 

Autumn Flowering Crocus.—These are rarely 
seen in cultivation, from the fact of their coming into 


CROCUS—CROWN IMPERIAL—CUMMINGIA. 71 


flower when our gardens are filled with flowers useful 
for cutting, more showy, and in every sense more 
attractive. However beautiful a flower may be in its 
grassy bed, if it cannot be made to appear beautiful as a 
cut flower, it has but a small place in the garden. The 
species of this class are: 

_C. sativus (Saffron Crocus).—A very handsome 
plant, with flowers of a pale purple or violet, readily dis- 
tinguished from all the other species, by the prominence 
of its stigmas. These stigmas, when dried, form the 
saffron of commerce. The flowers and leaves of the 
Saffron Crocus appear simultaneously in September. It 
is a very ornamental species, and requires no further 
care than planting in spring in any good garden soil, its 
preference being for one of a sandy nature. 

C. serotinus.—A purple-flowered species from 
the Crimea, occasionally found among the rocks by the 
sea shore in Portugal. 

C. speciosus (Showy Crocus).—The most beauti- 
ful of all the Crocuses, from the large size of its flowers, 
which appear, in October, without the leaves; the latter 
are not protruded until the flowers are withered. The 
withered flowers remain on the plant till the ripening of 
the seed, which takes place the following April or May. 
It differs from all other Crocuses, in thriving under the 
shade of trees, and in preferring a situation near the 
water. 


CROWN IMPERIAL. 
See Fritillaria. 
CUMMINGIA. 
A synonym of Conanthera. See Page 61. 
CYANELLA. 


A genus of very pretty little Cape of Good Hope 
bulbs, with white, klue, yellow and red flowers, appear- 


nie 


02 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


ing in July or August. The flowers are something like 
those of the Ixia, but smaller, and are produced in clus- 
ters of ten or twelve, on long pedicels spreading widely 
from the main stem. The bulbs do best when left in 
the ground during winter, but they must be protected 
against frost, or water, by a cold frame, or liberal 
mulching. 


CYCLAMEN. 


When well managed, there are few winter flowering 
bulbs more pleasing or attractive than the Cyclamen. 
They are not classed among popular plants, from the 
fact that their blooms have no commercial value. But 
for objects of interest, they have but few rivals in the 
greenhouse or conservatory. When brought from the 
greenhouse to the window garden they continue to pro- 
duce their charming flowers longer than most other 
plants.. The genus Cyclamen contains but few species, 
just how many it is difficult to say, as it is a question 
upon which authorities differ, from the fact that many 
varieties are included in the list of so-called species. It 
is, however, to C. Persicum that we are indebted for the 
many types and varieties that are commercially known 
and sold under the generic name Cyclamen. 

The genus has long been under cultivation as a flow- 
ering plant, as we find it beautifully illustrated as early 
as 1612, and from the drawings then made we can recog- 
nize the most improved varieties of the present day. 
The origin of one common name, Sowbread, is so old — 
that it is past finding out. Pliny said the roots poisoned 
swine, whence the name Sowbread, or poison, was given 
it. The more general, as well as the more reasonable, 
inference is that it derived this name from the fact of 
swine being fond of the roots, and that they are whole- 
some, rather than injurious. 

The only practicable way of growing the Cyclamen 
is from seed, which is produced freely. It germinates 


CYCLAMEN. 73 


the more rapidly if sown as soon as ripe. As the plants 
are wanted for winter and spring use, the seed should 
be sown in pots or pans about the first of December, and 
given a gentle bottom heat and a humid atmosphere. 
The soil in which the seed is sown should be light, open 


PERSIAN CYCLAMEN. 


and friable, in order that the seedlings may be pricked 
out at the proper time, without injury to their roots. 
This work cannot be done all at one time, as some of 
the seeds will germinate much sooner than others, and, 
when up, the plants make a more rapid growth, The 


74 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


seedlings should be pricked out into thumb pots when 
their first leaves are not more than half an inch 1n diam- 
eter. ‘The young bulbs then will be about the size of 
small peas, and, in potting, these should not be placed 
below the surface of the soil, which should be coarse, 
light and rich, with pieces of pots, finely broken, inter- 
mixed, and be well drained. Although the Cyclamen 
demands a moist atmosphere, and the soil in the pots 
must not get dry while the plants are in a growing state, 
there is nothing more injurious to them than water, if it 
stands about the roots, or the soil becomes sodden. 
From the time the seed is sown until the plants are in 
flower, they must never receive a check. Growth must 
be rapid and steady. Frequent shiftings will be neces- 
sary, at least as often as the pots are nicely filled with 
roots, and in shifting, remove from one pot to another 
but one size larger, always using the same kind of soil. 

During summer the plants may be grown in a shaded 
frame, outside, or in the greenhouse, which is, by far, 


the most convenient. If in the latter, the glass should 


be whitewashed, as they must be protected against the 
direct rays of the sun, as well as dry atmosphere. As 
early as the October after the seed is sown, the plants 
will have filled five-inch pots, the bulbs an inch and a 
half in diameter, and flowering beautifully, each plant 
producing from fifty to a hundred blossoms. The colors 
will be from pure white to the darkest purplish crimson, 
with all the variations these colors will produce; the 
more pleasing being pure white with crimson eye, or white 


with delicate pink spots. The only enemy the Cyclamen ~ 2 


has to encounter’ is the thrip, and this will not be 
troublesome if the plants are kept in continuous growth. 
Should the appearance of thrip become manifest by the 


curling of the leaf, remove it as quickly as possible; — ‘ 


allow no foliage on the plant that is not perfectly 
healthy, and this pest will soon disappear. 


CYCLAMEN. 45 


The summer after flowering, the pots should be 
plunged in some shaded border, away from drip, and 
given no further thought until the first of October, when 
they should be repotted. When this is done give them 
entirely fresh soil, with as little injury as possible to the 
old roots, carefully removing such as are dead or dis- 
eased. Put the bulbs in the same sized pots from which 
they were taken, and shift on into larger ones, as may 
become necessary, always bearing in mind the important 
fact that the plants do best with their bulbs wholly 
above the soil. 


THE SPECIES ARE: 


C. persicum.—The species described above. A 
native of Persia. Except in rare or botanical collections, 
the other species are not often met. 

C. africanum (African).—This species is of deli- 
cate habit, with fine, large blush-white flowers. 

C. cilicicum.—A native of Cilecia, and resembles 
C. europeum. 

C. Coum.—A native of Asia Minor; with mostly 
deep red inodorous flowers; of this there are several 
varieties. 

C. europeum.—This species is widely distributed 
throughout Central and Southern Europe. Flowers 
mostly bright red and very fragrant. 

C. grecum (Greek).—From the mountains of 
Greece. Flowers pure white, with a bright purple spot 
at the base. The bulbs of this species are very large, 
and often irregular in form. 

C. hederefolium (Ivy-leaved Cyclamen). — In 
many respects this is one of the most magnificent of all 
the Cyclamens. Its habit is not so graceful as that of 
O. persicum, neither is it as free-flowering, but it is 
more vigorous and hardy. It is found wild in some 
parts of England. It is very handsome in foliage, the 


76 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


leaves being quite ornamental and produced in the great- 
est profusion. The flowers precede the leaves and con- 
tinue from August to October. 

C. ibericum (Iberian).—A native of the Caweasus ; 
flowers bright red in the type, with a bright purple spot 
at the base. : 

C. neapolitanum (Neapolitan).—A close alliance 
with C. europeum. 


CYPELLA. 


A handsome greenhouse bulb, of easy culture. The 
flowers are yellow, with a dark stripe down each petal. 
C. Herbert, the only species, is a native of South Amer- 
ica. This is one of a large class of bulbs, beautiful, but 
not popular. It cannot be grown outside of the green- 
house, other than in the most temperate climates, and 
it has not a commercial value that will warrant green- 
house care. 


CYRTANTHUS. 


A small genus of deciduous and evergreen bulbs, 
from the Cape of Good Hope. While the flowers of the 
Cyrtanthus are all beautiful, and some singularly so, 
the difficulty in producing them, and in preserving the 
bulbs, is so great, in proportion, that they are rarely 
met. They require treatment so different from nearly 
all other plants, that a house must be devoted to them 
alone, if success is to be attained. The ordinary green- 
house is too cold and damp; the stove house is too warm 
and damp. Hence the difficulty in their management. — 


DAFFODIL. 
See Narcissus. 
DAHLIA. 
But few of the many genera of flowering plants have 
had so many ups and downs, in the way of popularity, 
as the Dahlia. When first introduced, the single forms 


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Nay 


5 WD 


a 


i) O) SS 
an ON 
oe 


TYPES OF DOUBLE DAHLIAS, 


"8 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


created a most wonderful sensation. The fact of the 
Marchioness of Bute, one of the most enthusiastic 
patrons of botany, having introduced it into England 
from Madrid in 1789, was a sufficient indorsement of its 
beauty and usefulness, to make it at once one. of the 
most popular flowering plants. When the Dahlia was 
first introduced into Spain, it was named by Abbe 
Cavanilles, director of the Royal Gardens, in honor of 
Dr. Andrew Dahl, a Swedish botanist. After that, Prof. 
Wildenow, of Berlin, laboring under the impression that 
the name adopted by Cavanilles had been previously 
applied to another plant, discontinued the name Dahlia, 
and substituted that of Georgina, in honor of Prof. 
George, of St. Petersburgh. For a number of years it 
was known under the latter name, and is so termed in 
some of Loudon’s writings. 

Its cultivation, however, did not become very gen- 
eral until the illustrious naturalists, Humboldt and 
Bonpland, in descending from the tableland in Mexico 
towards the coast of the Pacific ocean, rediscovered it 
growing on the prairies, at a height of nearly five thou- 
sand feet above the level of the sea. The plants then 
discovered were transmitted to the botanical garden at 
Mexico, and in 1804 transferred to the various public 
gardens throughout Europe. But little progress was 
made in their cultivation, or in the development of the 
species, for several years thereafter. The following 
account of the origin of the double forms we take from 
the “‘ History of the Dahlia,” by Robert Hogg, Hsq., of — 
London, published in 1853. | 

‘Several cultivators on the continent, observing the 
natural disposition of the Dahlia to sport from its orig- 
inal form, began now to direct their attention to raising 
new varieties, and treating it as a florists’ flower. Many 
attempts were made to procure double flowers, but with- 
out success. In 1806, the gardener at Malmaison for- 


DAHLIA. 19 


warded to the gardener at St. Cloud all the three varie- 
ties which were then known, namely, D. coccinea, 
 D. purpurea and D. crocata. These produced seeds, 
which were sown, but, notwithstanding all the attempts 
which were made year after year, they still remained 
single. In Belgium, however, they were more success- 
ful; for we learn that in 1812, M. Donkelaar, botanic 
gardener at Louvain, having sown a quantity of seeds, 
raised plants which the first year produced all single 
flowers. Disappointed, but not discouraged, he from 
these saved a second quantity, which, in their turn, pro- 
duced semi-double flowers; and, emboldened with the 
success which attained this second essay, he, from the 
best of these semi-double flowers, produced a further 
supply of seed, the produce of which, in the following 
year, presented him with three plants which bore flowers 
perfectly double. These were, therefore, the first really 
double flowers ever produced. After this there were 
many varieties raised, of all shades and depths of color, 
and from this time the Dahlia began to attract for itself 
a measure of interest, which has gone on increasing, and 
which, even at the present day, seems to be as great and 
unabating as if it were a plant of the most recent intro- 
duction, aud which was still a novelty in the midst of us.” 

The popularity of the Dahha, at that period, was 
quite as great in this country as in Europe. Exhibitions 
of this flower alone were held in the principal cities, and 
every encouragement was given to the production of new 
varieties. From that time, until within the past few 
years, when the single forms were again introduced, its 
popularity waned, while the enthusiasm for the single 
forms knew no bounds. Again the double forms are 
attracting as much attention as they did thirty years ago ; 
new varieties are being brought out, and the older ones 
reinstated to their former position in the garden. 

For garden display, we have no flower that can be 
so successfully and satisfactorily grown as the Dahlia. 


80 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


It is of the easiest culture, and a proper selection will 
furnish, for two or three months of the season, a gor- 
geous mass of bloom. ‘The double Dahlias are divided 


EN Vr een te Mee r 


TYPES OF SINGLE DAHLIAS. 


into several classes by the florists. For general display 
we prefer the Pompon or small-flowered sorts. They 
usually bear more and longer-stemmed flowers, standing 


DAHLIA. 81 


well out from the plant in regular outline. These are 
far more useful for cut flowers, as they can be more 
- gracefully arranged. 

Single Dahlias.—Where large masses of flowers 
are desired these will give the greatest satisfaction, as 
their flowers possess the most gorgeous colors, while the 
plants are more graceful and pleasing. Notwithstanding 
that the plant is of perennial habit, and is rapidly 
increased by cuttings, or division of tubers, it is quite as 
satisfactory when treated asan annual. When treated in 
this manner, seeds from the choicest varieties alone should 
be saved, such as have the largest and best formed flow- 
ers, of the most positive colors and best defined mark- 
ings. Seed sown in a frame, or hotbed, or even in pots 
in the house, early in April, make fine blooming plants 
in August, and will continue in flower until killed by 
frost. September is really the month for the Dahlia ; it 
is then in perfection; our hot, dry summers are not 
such as the Dahlia delights in, and the single forms 
seem more sensitive to the summer’s sun than do the 
double ones. We should advise keeping over a few of 
the most desirable forms and colors, from which to save 
seed. But where a large mass is required, depend wholly 
upon seedlings, which should be planted sufficiently 
close to spare a few of the poorer ones, of which there 
will always be a goodly number. ‘These can be thrown 
out when the first flowers appear, and the remainder will 
soon spread so as to cover the ground. ‘The plants 
should be set in rows four feet apart, and two feet apart 
in the rows. In this way a harmony of color will be 
secured that cannot be effected by artificial arrangement. 
This may seem strange, as the gardener would naturally 
think that with his colors all assorted he could plant 
with more artistic skill than nature would employ. Not 
so, however, ‘in a bed of seedlings ; there will scarcely be 
two alike, with every color, from the most positive to 

6 


82 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


the most delicate neutral tint, and so perfectly blended 
that nothing but the most perfect harmony is visible. 

The raising of Dahlias from seed is one of the pleas- 
ures of gardening, and we cannot understand why the 
practice is not more common, since it is attended with so 
little difficulty in proportion to the success gained. The 
certainty of getting some very fine varieties is well bal- 
anced by getting some that are not worth growing, but 
these are easily thrown away, giving the remaining 
plants a better opportunity for development. To get 
choice seed is the important work; this, many growers 
think, can only be obtained by cross-fertilization, from 
which opinion we dissent. Our opinion, based on years 
of experience, is that selection is the more important 
work. ‘To choose for seed-bearing plants such as have 
the greatest vigor, grace of habit, and, withal, such as 
have the most desirable flowers, as regards color, form 
and markings. Seed from medium or poor flowers 
should never be saved, neither should seeds from a plant 
that has produced other than perfect flowers, and these 
should be grown away from the ornamental border, as 
but few flowers should be left on the plant for seed; the 
other of the buds to be taken off, in order that the seed 
may have the full strength of the plant for its develop- 
ment. ‘The seed of the single Dahlia should be saved in 
August, if possible; if left until the nights are cool the 
flowers will have a tendency to become double; the 
floral discs will elongate, to protect the seed from the 
cold, which they do not do in hot weather. It is a sin- 
gular fact that a low temperature is favorable for double 
forms. In hot climates the flowers of the Dahlia will 
not remain double, and they can only be produced by 
getting tubers annually from cold climates; and it is 
nearly as difficult to retain the single forms in cool 
climates. 

Cultivation and Propagation.— While the Dahlia 
will grow wherever planted, whether the soil be heavy or 


ers, proportionate in size and 


DAHLIA. 83 


light, rich or poor, there is no plant that more highly 
appreciates good generous treatment. ‘To produce good 
double flowers in profusion, the soil must be strong, 
deep and rich. The plant is a gross feeder and requires 
plenty of light, room and air. With these requisites an 
individual plant will yield an enormous number of flow- 


color. For exhibition flowers, 
disbudding is necessary ; leave 
but a single bud on a leading 
branch, and, should the 
weather be warm and dry, ar- 
tificial watering will greatly 
enhance the size and sub- 
stance of the flower. The soil 
should be worked often and 
deep. The Dahtia is not a 
weed, but a noble plant, and 
as such should receive proper 
attention. | 

Propagation is effected in j 
the spring by division of the 
tubers, which should be 
started on wet moss or sand 
about three weeks before it is 
time for planting out in the 
border. The eyes will develop 
into sprouts; then, with a SPROUTSD DAHLIA TUBER. 
fine saw cut up the tubers, leaving but a single eye 
on each piece, as shown in the illustration, plant 
in the same manner as the potato. For the rapid 
Increase of desired varieties for purposes of sale, the 
tubers should be put in the propagating bench about the 
first of January, and cuttings taken off when they have 
made two joints; these will root freely with slight bot- 
tom heat. When nicely rooted pot off in thumb pots, 


84 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


and carry on into larger pots as their growth demands, 
and then plant out as soon as the weather will permit. 
For purposes of trade, what are known as dry pot 
roots are very convenient, as they can be distributed 
through the mails as easily as any small bulbs, and they 
make plants, in every respect, equal to those grown from 


AS 
SS 
AN 


UNDIVIDED CLUMP OF DAHLIA TUBERS. 


larger tubers. ‘These are grown from cuttings in three- 
inch pots, which are plunged in ashes in a frame, to pre- 
vent their roots from penetrating the soil, and grown on 
during the summer, drying off in October. When dry, 
they can either be shaken out of pots and stored away, 
like the large tubers, or kept in the pots until wanted. 
Taking up and Storing.—After the frost has 
killed the tops, and before there is danger of the ground 
freezing up, the tubers can be taken up and stored in a 


DAUBENYA. 85 


dry room free from frost. Any treatment which will 
keep the potato during the winter, will keep the Dahlia 
equally well. We prefer not to take the tubers up for 
at least a week after a frost, as they will ripen much 
better after the tops have been killed than before, and 
the tubers are not so liable to shrivel up during rest. 

The species from which all the varieties, both double 
and single, have originated, are as follows: 

D. coccinea (Scarlet).—One of the species first 
introduced, and also the one of modern introduction ; 
type of the single varieties. 

D. excelsa.—One of the strongest growing species ; 
the stem strong and woody, rising over twenty feet. 

D. gracilis (Slender).—One of the most beautiful 
of the single forms; flowers bright orange-scarlet. 

D. imperialis (Imperial).—A very beautiful spe- 
cies in its native home, but its flowers appear so late, 
that it is of little value in our gardens. 

D. Juarezii (Cactus Dahlia).—This has generally 
been regarded a species, but it is really a garden variety, 
which originated in Mexico. It is one of the most showy 
and free-flowering of the tribe. Of this type there are 
several named varieties, one of which is pure white, and 
all are distinct and very desirable. 

D. Mercki.—A small-flowered species, with white 
and yellow or lilac and yellow flowers. 

D. variabilis (Variable).—This is supposed to be 
one of the species first introduced, and parent of most 
of the garden varieties. 


DAUBENYA. 


A small genus of very pretty Cape of Good Hope 
bulbs requiring greenhouse culture, but needing so 
much room for successful development that their culture 
is not desirable. 


86 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


DAY FLOWER. 
See Commelyna, Page 61. 
DOGS TOOTH VIOLET. 
See Erythronium, Page 88. 
DRAGON PLANT. 
See Arisema and Arum, Pages 31 to 33. 


DRIMIA. 


A small genus of uninteresting Cape of Good Hope 
bulbs formerly included in the genus Lachenalia. ‘The 
flowers are small and not conspicuous. This genus is 
only mentioned, like many others, to caution amateurs 
against its cultivation. 


DUTCH BULBS, OR HOLLAND BULBS. 


This term is applied by the trade, to such bulbs as 
are largely grown in Holland, and includes Hyacinths, 
Tulips, Crocus, Crown Imperials and Narcissus, all but 
the latter being grown almost exclusively in that country. 


ELISENA. 


This genus contains but one cultivated species, Z. 
longipetala, a native of Peru, and allied to Pancratium. 
The flowers are borne in clusters on a slender scape 
nearly three feet in height, and closely resemble those of 
the Ismene. Its pure white, delicately formed flowers, 
have a pleasing fragrance, and are worth all it costs to 
produce them. They require greenhouse treatment, to 
be kept very wet when in active growth, and perfectly 
dry when at rest. 


ERANTHIS. 
Winter Acontte. 


A small genus of tuberous-rooted, hardy herbaceous 
plants, natives of Italy and Siberia. 


EWE eM Se ee ee ee a Le ee ee ee eee, YR ee eg eee 


. 

— 
= 
7 
~ 
“ 
; 


Ee el a ee ee 


ERANTHIS—ERINOSMA. 87 


E. hyemalis.—The only cultivated species. It 
has a pretty little yellow flower, valuable for its early 
blooming, and contrasting well with the Snowdrop, its 
only companion in earliness, excepting, possibly, the 
Scilla siberica, which appears before the others are 
entirely passed. The yellow, white and blue flowers of 


ren NS V4 


SS 


vu Nt 


ERANTHIS HYEMALIS. 


s 


the three genera, all delicate and low growing, form, 
when planted in close contact, in early spring a cheering 
mass of bloom. . The Hranthis grows about three inches 
high, producing solitary terminal flowers. The tubers 
soon lose their vitality when out of the ground; they 


increase rapidly, and require but little attention after 
once planting. 


ERINOSMA. 
See Leucoium. 


\ 


88 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


ERIOSPERMUM. 


A small genus of Cape of Good Hope bulbs, produc- 
ing their flowers before the leaves; they have neither 
beauty nor interest enough to warrant their cultivation. 


ERYTHRONIUM. 


Dog’s Tooth Violet. 


A small genus of very beautiful hhaceous plants, 
found throughout temperate North America. One spe- 
cies is common in Europe. Why it should be called a 
violet, to which it has not the slightest resemblance, is 
one of the mysteries that surround plant nomenclature. 
Although they are native plants, they do not thrive well 
when taken from their wild homes in the moist woods. 
They will, however, succeed well, if planted in moist 
soil in partial shade, but they must have that protection 
which nature affords them, a covering of leaves in 
autumn ; this protects against cold in winter and drouth 
in summer, both of which they resent. The species are: 

E. dens-canis (Dog’s Tooth Violet).—This species 
is common in the South of Europe, and is perfectly 
hardy in English gardens, but needs protection in Amer- 
ica. ‘The flowers are variable, from white to deep pur- 
ple. When once planted, the bulbs should never be 
removed, unless absolutely necessary; and when they 
are taken up, they should be replanted as soon as possi- 
ble, as, if suffered to dry, they shrivel up and soon 
decay. The flowers appear in May, and contrast finely 


with their beautifully variegated foliage. Propagation | 


is effected by offsets. 

E. americanum (Yellow Adder’s Tongue).—This 
is the well-known species of our woods; flowers droop- 
ing, brown outside, bright, yellow within; there seems 
to be several varieties, with larger or smaller flowers, all 
of the same general character, the difference probably 
being caused by the locality in which they grow; their 
foliage is beautifully spotted. 


Renee rar weer AY 4 Siete pad pwe ee pire ear fa seis es Serre biti sl i ne Tae eee aT aE EE Ee ’ 


EUCHARIS. 89 


E. albidum (White Dog’s Tooth Violet).—A rare 
species occasionally met in Iowa and Southward; its 
flowers are white, or nearly so, and the foliage is plain, 
free from the markings that distinguish most of the spe- 
cies. A variety of this has been discovered at Lake 
Superior, with yellow flowers. 

E. grandiflorum.—A species occasionally met in 
the Northwestern States, and in its glory in the North- 
ern Rocky Mountains. It has larger flowers than £. 
americanum, but does not differ materially, from a flor- 
ists’ standpoint, in other respects. 


EUCHARIS, 


This genus is of recent cultivation, having been 
introduced from New Grenada in 1851, where the species 
are found growing in the marshes in tropical luxuriance. 
The flowers are remarkable for their purity, beauty and 
delightful fragrance. As flowers for florists’ use, or for 
greenhouse decoration, they have no equals in the list of 
‘bulbs. All the species require the humid atmosphere of 
the hothouse, the ordinary temperature of the greenhouse 
being too low for their perfect development. ‘The flow- 
ers are produced in trusses of from four to ten, accord- 
ing to the strength of the bulb and the conditions of 
growth. ‘The impression that generally prevailed soon 
after their introduction, that they were difficult subjects 
to manage, was soon dispelled, and their culture became 
not only common, but very profitable, until the Eucharis 
insect made its appearance, since which time most grow- 
ers have become so discouraged, by repeated failures, 
that they have abandoned their cultivation. But for the 
ravages of this pest the cultivation of the Eucharis would 
be attended with as little difficulty as that of almost any 
popular plant. In fact, but few subjects are more easily 
managed, water and heat being their chief requisites. 
Unlike many other plants, they enjoy massing, and to 


90 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTZ2. 


grow them to the greatest perfection they should be car- 
ried on from single bulbs, without division, until they 
fill tubs three feet in diameter. With a sufficient num- 
ber of these a succession of bloom can be obtained nearly 
the whole season. ‘The bulbs need but little rest, and 
this can be so regulated, by the withholding of heat and 
moisture, as to keep up the succession. Potting may be 
done at any time, care being necessary so as not to injure 
the roots. ‘The soil which best suits them is a good 
strong loam, with plenty of coarse sand, and made very 
rich with thoroughly rotted manure ; that from the cow- 
stable being preferable. While in a growing state water 
cannot be too freely applied, when sufficient drainage 
has been provided. Liquid manure should be given, at 
least, twice a week, and the plants syringed twice a day 
to keep off thrip and red spiders. ‘The temperature of 
the house should not fall below 70° during winter, and 
during that season give them all the sunshine possible. 


To secure flowers in the winter months water sparingly 


from August to October. 

E. amazonica.—The type. The variety, grandi- 
flora, is the larger, and by far the most desirable. 

E. candida.—A smaller flowered species; flowers 
from three to six in an umbel, produced on spikes about 
two feet high ; leaves solitary on each bulb. 

E. Sanderiana.—This differs from H#. grandiflora 
in the filaments and inside of the tube being yellow. 
In all other respects and in general habit it is like the 
species referred to. 


EKUCOMIS. 


A small genus of coarse-growing Oape of Good Hope 
bulbs, the only merit of which is the pleasant fragrance 
of their flowers. : 

E. bifolia.—The best known of the species has but 
two leaves, which lay flat upon the ground; flowers are 
greenish, produced on short racemes. 


Se recta ES i a a ak a a I le a 


ie 
<a ee SS A 


EUCROSIA—EU RYCLES—FERKARIA. 91 


EKUCROSIA. 


| The only species is £. bicolor, which is a very showy 

bulb from the Peruvian Andes. The flowers are bright 
vermilion, with a purplish stripe on the outside of the 
petals, produced in terminal clusters on the slender 
scapes about a foot high. They should be grown ina 
warm greenhouse, where they produce their flowers in 
summer. In winter they require perfect rest; in all 
respects treat the same as the Amaryllis or the Hippe- 
astrum, to which natural order they belong. 


KURYCLES. 


A small genus of bulbs, natives of Australia, and 
allied to Pancratium. This plant will succeed only 
with hothouse treatment. The flowers are white, and 
produced in compact umbels in May. The length of 
time they occupy space in the hothouse, and the care 
required, is not remunerated by their flowers. 


EVENING FLOWER. 
See Hesperantha, Page 137. 
FEATHERED HYACINTH. 
See Muscari. 
FERRARIA. 


A small genus of Cape bulbs, valued more highly 
for their singular appearance than for their real beauty. 
They are of the easiest culture, flowering freely in pots 
in the greenhouse in April. The bulbs are small. From 
four to six can be put into a six-inch pot in autumn, and- 
they will commence to grow in February, when they 
require plenty of air, sunlight and water. Soon after 
flowering the foliage dies down, when the pots should 
be put away in a dry place and remain until the time for 
growth to again commence. They.can then be repotted, 
or grown on in the same pots, and continued on as long 


se ae eae te am SR Pilea eee. nee 


are Se cre emer © = xe & 


92 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


as they flower well. They succeed well in a cold frame, 
but must be protected against frost and water during 
winter. They are increased rapidly by offsets. 

F. Ferrariola (/ antherosa).—Flowers green and 
brown. 

F. uncinata.—A curious species; flowers green, 
with a bright blue mark in the center. | 

F. atrata.—Very brilliant purple flowers. 

F. divaricata.—Flowers purple and green. 

F. obtusifolia.—This is entirely distinct from the 
other species by the remarkable color of its flowers, and 
its potato-like root. It grows about eighteen inches 
high, and branches in the form of a bush. It flowers in 
June and July, and the bulbs may be taken up in the 
autumn and kept during winter like those of the 
Tigridia, and planted out again in early spring. This 
species is deserving of cultivation, from the great beauty - 
and profusion of its flowers. 


FLAG FLOWER. 
A popular name of the Ivis. 
FLAME LILY. 
See Pyrolirion. 
FLEUR DE LIS AND FLOWER DE LUCE. 
See Iris. 
FRENCH TULIP. 
The popular name of Tulipa sylvestris. 
FRITILLARIA. 
Guinea-hen Flower. Checkered Lily. 
All of the Fritillarias have drooping bell-shaped 
flowers, with honey drops in the cavity of each petal. 


This nectar is particularly abundant in the Crown Im- 
perial, so much so as to drop if the flowers are shaken. 


FRITILLARIA. 


CROWN IMPERIAL, 


93 


94 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


All the species are desirable border plants, as they are 
among the earliest of spring flowers, and remarkably 
showy. Most of the species are rich in spots or mark- 
' Ings; some are checked in the manner.and as regular as 
the chess-board. All are of the easiest culture, and 
require only to be planted in any good soil moderately 
rich and made light. While they are included in our 
list of hardy bulbs, and are hardy in the general accepta- 
tion of the term, they are greatly benefited by a liberal 
mulching of leaves during winter, quite as much to pro- 
tect against alternate freezing and thawing, as against 
cold. The bulbs do not require frequent changing, but 
can remain a number of years after planting without 
removal. As they soon die down after flowering, annu- 
als or bedding plants can be planted in the same bed, 
thus keeping up a succession of flowers, without injury, 
in fact, with benefit to the bulb. ‘There are many spe- 
cies and varieties. 

F. Meleagris.—This is the well-known Guinea-hen 
flower, a native of England, growing naturally in moist 
meadows or near rivers, and does not attain its full «ize 
if grown in dry soil. ‘There are several varieties, differ- 
ing only in the color of the flowers, which are variable 
from purple to nearly white. ‘The bulb is small, white 
and flat, each bulb producing but a single flower. 

F. imperialis (The Crown Imperial). This spe- 
cies is a native of Persia, and was introduced into Eng- 
land previous to 1596, as Gerard mentions it in his 
Herbal of that date, praising it on account of ‘‘its stately 
beautifulness,” and accords it ‘‘the first place in the 
garden of delght.”: This is the least cultivated, and, 
perhaps, the least known or popular of all the bulbs, yet 
it is one of the most noble of spring-flowering species, 
and should be found in every collection, no matter how 
small. It usually attains a height of from two to three 
feet, bearing an umbel of bell-shaped flowers, red or 


GAGEA—GALANTHUS. 95 


yellow, of both single and double forms, on the top of a 
naked flower-stem, and over them is a crown of leaves, 
making it one of the most beautiful objects in the gar- 
den. ‘The flowers precede those of the hyacinth, which 
adds to their many attractions (See Engraving, Page 93). 
While all the species are objects of interest in the garden, 
those described above fully represent the genus. 


GAGEHA. 


A considerable genus of half-hardy bulbs, allied to 
the Tulip. The flowers are yellow, produced in umbels 
on short stems, and appear about the same time as the 
Crocus. They are, practically, of no use in this country, 
not being sufficiently hardy for open air culture, and not 
worthy a place in the greenhouse. 


GALANTHUS. 
Snowdrop. 


_ These elegant little flowers, the first to open in 
spring, should be found in every garden, not only 
because they are the earliest spring flower, but because 
they are the loveliest. It is not an uncommon thing to 
have Snowdrops in flower in February, at least two weeks 
ahead of the Crocus, particularly if planted in some 
well-protected sunny border, a place where they should 
always be found. The Snowdrop thrives in almost any 
situation or soil; it will live and bloom anywhere, sur- 
viving more hard treatment than any other plant, 
excepting grass, yet there are but few flowers that more 
highly appreciate good care and culture. The bulbs 
should be planted as early in the autumn as they can be 
secured, as they suffer much if left long out of ground. 
They should be planted in small clumps and left to care 
for themselves, which they will do, whether planted in 
sun or shade, under the trees or in the grass; in fact, 
where anything will grow the Snowdrop will thrive. By 


np 


96 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


planting in different exposures, a succession may be had 
from February to May. It is, however, for early flowers 
that they are planted; they tell us when spring is com- 
ing, and that more showy forms are soon to follow. 
The few species that make up this genus are: 


SNOW DROP—SNOWFLAKE. 


G. nivalis.—The single form is the common Snow- 
drop, a native of England, where it is found im woods 
and shady dells; the double form is a garden variety of 
this species, and is usually smaller than the wild single 
plant. 


GALA XTA——“GALTONTA, 97 


G. plicatus (Folded, or Russian Snowdrop).—The 
bulb of this species is much larger than that of the com- 
mon Snowdrop, but the flower is smaller, and the petals 
forming the inner part are of a deep green. The leaves 
_ are broader than of the common kind, and they are 
curiously folded at the edges, whence the specific name, 
which signifies plaited or folded. 

G. Elwesii.—A large-flowered form similar to the 
preceding; the leaves are twisted, instead of being 
folded. It was introduced from Asia Minor in 18%5, 
and is regarded as the finest of the genus. 


GALAXIA. 


A small genus of very pretty greenhouse bulbs, 
natives of Southern Africa; generally with large, showy 
yellow flowers. ‘T‘hey can be successfully grown in a 
cold frame, if secure from frost, flowering in midsum- 
mer. ‘They flower freely in the cool greenhouse, but are 
not of sufficient value to entitle them to the room and 
care required. ‘They are produced freely from offsets. 
They may be treated like the Gladiolus, but the bulbs 
must be kept cool and dark, and free from frost. 


GALTONIA. 


[Hyacinthus candicans.]| 


G. candicans, the only species, a native of South 
Africa, is one of our most ornamental border plants, grow- 
ing from four to six feet high, bearing from twenty to 
one hundred large bell-shaped flowers of a creamy white 
color, on drooping foot stalks. While it is quite as 
hardy as any of the species, and is of perennial habit, it 
should never be treated as such if its capabilities are to 
be fully brought out. It needs to be grown from seed, 
which grow readily when sown in the same manner as 
the seeds of the most common garden vegetables. In 
ight, rich soil, flowering bulbs will be made the first 

r 


98 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


year; take up and store the same as Gladiolus; plant 
out the following spring, and by the first of August the 
flower stalks will appear; these should be immediately 
cut off, at least from a portion of the bulbs, as soon as 
they appear, in order to throw the whole strength of the 
plant into the bulb for the next season’s flowering. The 
second year from seed sowing its greatest perfection is 
attained, and spikes such as we have described will be 
the rule. After once flowering dig up and throw away, 


as they will never after produce flowers worthy the name. — 


It is not worth while for the owners of small gardens to 
grow their own bulbs, because of their cheapness, but 
they should always plant such as have been produced in 
the manner described. Well grown bulbs will be from 
two to three inches in diameter. 


GANYMEDES, or RUSH DAFFODIL. 


See Narcissus triandrs. 


GARLIC. 
See Allium. Page 9. 


GASTRONEMA. 


See Cyrtanthus. Page 76. 
GEISSORHIZA. 
Tile-Root. 


A considerable genus of beautiful little bulbous 
plants, which were formerly considered to belong to 
Ixia. They are all remarkable for their bulbo-tubers, 
or rhizomes, which resemble fleshy stems, and are coy- 
ered with several skins, or coatings, which he over each 
other, like scales, or the tiles of a house, beginning from 
below. It is from this peculiarity that the plants take 
their English name of Tile-root. They have but four 


= ns 


GEISSURHIZA. 99 


leaves, all of which spring from the root, and are narrow 
and bristly. The stems are simple, or branched, pro- 
ducing one or’two flowers each, resembling the Ixia. 
The bulbs are all small, some not larger than peas, and 
are, in all respects, to be managed like the Ixias. They 
make beautiful pot plants, or can be successfully grown 
in cold frames, in very sandy soil, and where water will 
not stand over them. ‘They are as impatient of moisture 
as of cold; in fact, they will not endure either. They 
are natives of Abyssinia and the Cape of Good Hope. 
The species commonly met are: 

G. excisa.—A small growing species, formerly 
known as Java eacisa. Flowers white, lined with pink, 
and with a green center; they will only open in full 
sunshine. 

G. obtusa.—A stronger growing species, with straw 
or buff-colored flowers. 

G. Rochensis.—One of the most beautiful of the 
genus, and formerly called Plaid Ixia. The bulbs 
are very small, and will not remain long in a dry 
state without injury. The flowers are quite brilliant, 
the colors being blue, white and crimson. 

G. obtusata.—An elegant species, from the abund- 
ance and size of the flowers, generally producing six or 
eight rich cream-colored flowers, streaked with pink on 
the outside. They are without fragrance. 

G. secunda.—Of this species there are two varie- 
ties, one with blue, the other with white flowers. They 

flower early, and can only be successfully grown in the 
greenhouse. 

G. vaginata.—The most showy and useful of the 
species. The flowers appear in August and can be grown 
in a dry border, with a protection of leaves during win- 
ter. They are yellow, tipped with dark purple or black. 
The remaining species are rarely met, excepting in 
botanical collections. } 


100 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


GESNERA. 


The Gesnera has long been classed with greenhouse 
bulbous plants. The species form a varied and most 
interesting class, which can only be grown in the green- 
house or stove-house. They are all natives of South 
America and Mexico, and are quite as remarkable for 
the beauty of their foliage, which is singularly marked 
and has a velvet-like appearance, as for their flowers. 
The brilliant, mostly scarlet and yellow flowers, are pro- 
duced on long branching stalks. To grow them success- 
fully they must have plenty of heat and moisture, but 
in watering avoid wetting the leaves. ‘They are easily 
managed, so far as their period of bloom is concerned. 
By applying or withholding water, after a period of rest, 
a succession of bloom may be kept up with a few plants 
the entire season. 

Propagation is readily effected by cuttings of young 
shoots, or by leaf cuttings if the leaf be taken off with a 
bud at its base, or by division of the tubers, which 
should be made when starting into growth. ‘They are 
also easily grown from seed, which should be sown in 


pans of sphagnum, made very fine and mixed with clean . 


sand, as soon as ripe. The pans should be covered with 
glass to avoid evaporation, and placed in a warm house. 
As soon as the second pair of leaves is formed prick 
out into thumb pots and grow on in a humid atmos- 
phere. The plants will show when they need rest, by 
the drooping and drying up of their foliage; then grad- 


ually withhold water until the tops die down, after — 


which put them away in a dry, warm place, until their 
period of growth again arrives, which they will show by 
their starting; then repot, and divide if desirable. 
There are upwards of fifty species, all desirable. 


GETHYLLIS. 


The most diminutive genus of the Amaryllidacee. 
The species are little bulbs from the Cape of Good 


ae 
“ae 


GLADIOLUS, 101 


Hope, and are easily grown in the greenhouse in 
light open soil. The flowers are small, pure white, quite 
fragrant, and produced on stalks that do not exceed six 
inches in height. They are quite rapidly increased by 
offsets. These should be separated from the parent bulb 
at any time during winter, when it is at rest. 

G. spiralis.—A pretty plant, with singularly 
twisted foliage. 

G. afra.—Botanically this is a curious plant, having 
twelve fertile stamens, while all others of this natural 
order have but six. The flowers are very fragrant, and are 
succeeded by transparent yellow berries of a pleasant 
odor, and said to be edible. 


GLADIOLUS. 


Although the Gladiolus has not the poetic and _his- 
toric associations that distinguish the Lily, it is, never- 
theless, more remarkable in many respects. It is better 
adapted for general cultivation than the Lily, or any 
other of the many rare and beautiful kinds of bulbs. 
Between the Gladiolus and the Lily there is a strange 
contrast. Of all the forms of the Gladiolus under culti- 
yation, embracing, as they do, some of the grandest and 
most beautiful, as well as the most showy of floral forms, 
rarely do we see the original species, all the varieties 
that claim our attention being hybrid forms, or their 
descendants, wonderfully changed by cross-fertilization. 
So great have been these changes, that the original forms 
are entirely changed and greatly surpassed in the beauty 
of the flowers, as regards size, form, color and markings. 
On the other hand, in the creation of the Lily, nature so 
perfected her work that any improvement on the species 
has not come within the possibilities of human effort. 

From the standpoint of classification the Gladiolus 
has not been improved by the changes consequent upon 
hybridization. Some systematic botanists regard the 


2s 


102 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


ij 


a EEA SAY. 2 ieee. 5 oe ae a ee +p Doty: 


TYPES OF GLADIOLUS. 


GLADIOLUS. 103 


florists’ work as an unwarrantable interference with 
nature’s plans; consequently all changes of forms are 
regarded as monstrosities. But flowers are grown for 
the gratification of the eye, to satisfy the thirst for the 
beautiful, and in that sense they are useful, whether in 
a natural or developed form. Victor Hugo said: ‘‘'The 
beautiful is as useful as the useful, perhaps more so.” 
Therefore, whoever adds to the beauty of a floral form, 
which he cannot do without the assistance of nature, 
adds to the highest and purest pleasures of life. In this 
selection the Gladiolus has furnished a wide and inter- 
esting field for experiment. 

The Gladiolus is one of the most important genera 
in the natural order, Jridacew, to which it belongs. 
The genus contains about ninety species, nearly all of 
which are natives of the Cape of Good Hope. The spe- 
cies are remarkable for ease of culture, grace of habit, 
beautiful forms, and intensity of colors, ranging from 
the most vivid scarlet to pure white, from clear rose to 
pure yellow, and bright purple; in many of the species 
the colors are happily and singularly blended. ‘The 
habits of the species are as varied as their colors, some 
delicate and light, others strong and robust, with con- 
stitutions adapted to almost any climate that will sus- 
tain vegetation. The remarkable hybrids have taken 
the places of the original species, once so prominent in 
our gardens, and now the latter are rarely met except 
in botanical collections. This is a mistake, for many of 
uhe species are well worth growing for the sake of vari- 
ety, not less than for their intrinsic beauty. The more 
prominent we shall notice as they deserve, in this place, 
briefly referring to other species later on. ‘The Gladi- 
olus (Little Sword) derives its name from its sword- 
shaped leaves. 

G. communis (Corn Flag).—This species is found 
pretty generally distributed throughout the South of 


104 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


Europe; of this there are three varieties, white, rose 
and purple, all of the same general habit. ‘They are 
dwarf, rarely exceeding two feet in height. These are 
incorrectly classed among our hardy bulbs. Occasionally 
they will withstand the rigors of our winters, if in a 
sheltered situation. In such cases, if protected by a 
light mulching of leaves, they will flower very freely in 
June, a season when choice flowers are in great demand. 


The bulbs—corms, more correctly speaking—should be 
planted in autumn, and need not be disturbed or re- 


planted for anumber of years. A few clumps of each color 
in the herbaceous border produce a most pleasing effect. 

G. byzantinus.—A native of Turkey. The most 
hardy of any of the species, and particularly desirable 
for the border, as it is free-flowering. When once 
planted, it may remain undisturbed, like the Narcissus, 
for many years, as it produces so few offsets that it 
requires a long time to become troublesome from crowd- 
ing. This and the foregoing species dislike shade, and 


require an airy as well as a sunny situation, for a perfect 


development of flowers, It grows about two feet high, 
and the spike is well filled with purplish-red flowers. 

G. ramosus (Branching). — Unquestionably the 
finest species of the genus. In the size and beauty of 
its flowers it yields the palm to none, and on account of 
its peculiarly branching habit, it may be considered the 
most ornamental. In favorable situations the flower- 
stems will grow five feet high, and produce a succession 
of flowers from June until August. The flowers are 
very large, well opened, and of good shape. The type 
has flowers of a rosy-blush color, with heavy carmine 
stains on the three lower divisions. There are several 
distinct varieties, from which the Dutch florists have 
produced, by cross-fertilization, a large number of named 
sorts, all of the same general character as the species. 
The leaves are broad and heavy, giving the plants a truly 


F 
2 
: 
: 
: 
: 
; 
‘ 
‘ 
4 
2 
i 
: 


GLADIOLUS. 105 


magnificent appearance. ‘This class of Gladiolus is but 
little known or grown, from the fact of their not flower- 
ing well, if at all, when planted in the spring, and they 
are not hardy. ‘The corms should be planted in autumn, 
in a situation where water will not remain about them, 
and be protected against frost, either by a cold frame 
or by a heavy mulching. It is difficult to make the 
amateur, or even the professional florist understand 
this precaution, necessary as it is for many, if not all, 
bulbs. The gardener seems to think that when he has 
planted a bulb his work is done, when, in fact, it has but 
just commenced. For the want of this attention no 
class of plants suffers more than the so-called hardy 
Gladiolus. 

The object of this book being to assist the grower 
in the work of producing flowers of such species as are 
generally grown and popularly known, we shall but 
briefly notice the more important of the species, some of 
which are the parents of the hybrid Gladiolus so gener- 
ally cultivated. All the species are from the Cape of 
Good Hope, unless otherwise noted. We would remark 
here, that all Cape of Good Hope bulbs will thrive under 
the same general treatment. They are half-hardy, 
impatient of moisture when at rest, as their season of 
flowering is the rainy season of the country, and their 
period of rest during excessive drouth. They all suc- 
ceed well grown ina cold frame, which protects against 
both cold and moisture. 

G. alatus (Winged). A very interesting little 
plant ; the flowers have a delightful fragrance not unlike 
that of the Sweet Brier; the three upper petals are 
bright orange-scarlet, the three lower ones are yellowish, 
tipped with orange-scarlet. The bulbs are very small, 
not larger than ordinary peas, and cannot remain long 
out of ground. 

G. Algoensis (Algoa Bay Hyacinth).—This and 
the last are allied to the Viper species, and have the same 


106 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


general appearance in form and color. It is a native of 

the east coast of South Africa, a much warmer climate 

_ than that at the Cape, yet the bulbs are more nearly 
hardy in our climate. 

G. albidus (White Gladiolus).—This is the nearest 
to a pure white flower of any of the species, having no 
color except very light stains on the backs of the petals, 
before they expand. It is a low growing sort, the spikes 
furnishing usually but three flowers, large and well 
opened. It is rarely seen in cultivation. This is un- 
doubtedly one of the parents of G. Colville alba (The 
Bride). 

G. angustus (Narrow-leaved).—One of the first 
species introduced, and one of the least attractive. The 
flowers are small, of a dingy white color. 

G. aphyllus (Leafless).—A curious species, its 
flowers resembling more the Lomaria than the Gladiolus ; 
are produced in January or February. It can only be 
grown in the greenhouse. 

G. blandus (Fair). <A very pretty species with a 
strong spike of white flowers, the lower petals having an 
oval blotch of red. The flowers are alternately arranged 
on either side of the stem, a form that meets with but 
little favor. : 

G. brevifolius (Short-leaved).—A greenhouse 
species, with a long naked spike of very pretty rosy- 
tinted flowers. | 

G. campanulatus (Bell-shaped).—A very pretty 
species, but its name is a misnomer, as its flowers are 
less bell-shaped than most of the species. It is of dwarf 
habit, with lilac flowers, the lower divisions stained 
with red. : 

G. cardinalis (Scarlet, or Superb).—A grand 
flower, and one of the parents of many of our richly 
colored hybrids. It is well worthy of cultivation. In 
favorable situations it will grow more than four feet 


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of Pt Pb io a8 peaetaent calla aacet lad ita atcta 


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mm wet ee e ae A: 
piace an po ? 
eb 7 = ‘ 


GLADIOLUS. 107 


high, the stem dividing at the top into several branches, 
each bearing from six to eight flowers, on one side of 
the stem only; color a bright scarlet, with a white 
diamond-shaped blotch on each petal. It will rarely 
flower if the bulbs are planted in the spring. 

G. carneus (Flesh-colored).—An extremely hand- 
some species, growing about three feet high, with broad, 
sword-shaped leaves, with a narrow white margin. The 
flowers are large, with a long tube, and rather narrow- 
pointed petals; the lower three divisions have a brilliant 
carmine diamond-shaped spot in the center of each. 
The large size and beautiful color of the flowers, together 
with the great abundance in which they are produced, 
has caused it to be largely used as a parent of many of 
our garden varieties. 

G. cochleatus (Spoon-tipped).—A curious species 
with white flowers; contrary to the general form, the 
lower divisions are nearly double the size of the upper, 
and more erect; color white, slightly staimed with red, 
and a compass-shaped feathery blotch. It can be flow- 
ered only in the greenhouse. 

G. Colvillei.—A hybrid form, so entirely distinct 
from what are designated hybrids, that we give it a place 
with the species. It is a cross between G. concolor and 
G. cardinalis, the latter being the male parent. The 
flowers are of a beautiful scarlet, softening into a purple 
margin, and have a delightful fragrance. This hybrid 
has the constancy of the species. 

G. Colvillei alba.—Popularly known as ‘The 
Bride.” It is largely grown by the florists for decora- 
tive purposes, as well as for all purposes where white 
flowers are used. It grows freely, either planted out on 
the bench or in pots. The bulbs for forcing are chiefly 
grown in Holland, and should be potted immediately 
after their arrival. After potting, water thoroughly, 
and put them away under a bench, or in the shed, until 


a 


108 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


they commence to grow, then bring forward into a mod- 
erately heated house. 

G. concolor (One-colored}. This is a desirable 
‘species, if for its color only, which is of « clear bright 
yellow. It has from two to eight flowers on a one-sided 
spike. In the evening it emits a fragrance like the 
common pink. It must be grown in a frame, as its sea- 
son of flowering will not permit of spring planting, and 
it is impatient of greenhouse treatment. 

G. cruentus (Bloody).—Introduced from Natal in 
1868, and is but little known. The flowers are very 
large, brilliant scarlet, yellowish-white speckled with 
red at the base of the limb, or borne on spikes from six 
to ten inches long. 

G. cuspidatus (Sharp-pointed).—This is a remark- 
able form because of the great length and undulation of 
the petals. The cream-colored flowers are produced in 
May, and have the lower petals marked with a bright 
yellow spot on a rich purple blotch. 

G. c. ventricosus (Swelling).—A variety with 
reddish drooping flowers, with shorter tube and less 
inflated spathes than the type. 

G. debilis (Weak).—A species bearing solitary 
flowers, differing from most others of the genus, as all 
the petals are uniform, spreading open like the Ixias; 
the flowers are white, with rose-colored spots on the two 
inner sections. 

G. dracocephalus (Dragon’s-head).—Introduced 
in 1871. Flowers yellow, closely striped with dull red- 
purple, about two inches long and broad ; the lower sec- 
tions bright green, purple spotted. More curious than 
beautiful. 7 

G. edulis (Edible).—This species is remarkable 
because of its entire want of beauty. The flowers are 
white, shghtly stained with pink and yellow, and so 
. much curled that they have a withered appearance as 


GLADIOLUS. 109 


soon as they expand. ‘The bulb is oblong, firm and 
white, and is roasted and eaten like chestnuts by the 
natives of the Cape of Good Hope. 

G. fasciatus.—A very pretty dwarf species, grow- 
ing from six to twelve inches high. The flowers are 
delicate pink, with a dark crimson streak on the lower 
division. A winter flowering <pecies. 

G. tloripuiicus (Abundant-flowering).—One of the 
few species worthy of general cultivation, as it compares 
favorably with many of the hybrids oz recent introduc- 
tion, and because cf its dwarf and free-flowering habit. 
Its flowers are produced abundantly on each side of the 
stem, which rarely cxceeds a foot in height; they are 
very large, standing erect, and cpening widely like small 
Lilies ; color white, with a bright pink stripe down the 
center of each petal. They succeed admirably in the 
herbaceous border, with but sight protection in winter. 

G. gandavensis.— Noticed under Eybrid Gladiolus. 

G. gracilis \Slender).—A hardy form with fewer 
points of interest than almost any of the species. It is 
a delicate grower, producing from one to three pale lilac 
flowers, the lower petals spotted with black. 

G. hirsutus (Hairy).—In habit this is a variable 
species, growing from one to three feet high, as the soil 
and situation suitit. The flowers are large, rose colored, 
and all produced on one side of the stem, a habit not at 
all pleasing. The fragrance is not unlike that of the 
Hawthorne. 

G. psittacinus (Parrot). (Syn. G. natalensis).— 
Possessing remarkable interest from the fact of its being 
the parent, on the one side, of the well known G. gan- 
davensis kinds, which are now so extensively cultivated. 
It is a native of the southeast coast of Africa, near Natal. 
In common with the other species from that section, it 
is more hardy than the Cape species. Its flowers are of 
the most intense scarlet and yellow, borne on stems from 


110 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


three to four feet high. The bulbs should be planted 
in the open border, where they can have slight protec- 
tion, and need only to be taken up when over-crowded. 
G. recurvus (Recurved).—An unassuming yet 
interesting species. Jt is a tall, slender-growing plant, 
producing from two to five violet-purple flowers of small 
size, tinged with yellow. The sheath is white, mottled 
with purplish-brown, and is as glossy as the finest porce- 
lain, which, in a measure, it resembles. It has a fra- 
grance like that of the violet. 

G. purpureo-auratus.—A tall, slender-growing 
species of very graceful habit, producing freely yellow 
and purplish flowers. Not remarkable for its beauty so 
much as because of its parentage of the Lemoine Hybrids ; 
a deservedly popular class, far superior in all the require- 
ments of a desirable flower. ; 

G. Saundersii.—One of the best of the species, 
and the parent of a new strain, of which we shall have 
occasion to speak, in noticing hybrids. It is remarkable 
for its ease of culture, and for its brilliant scarlet flow- 
ers, with conspicuous pure white centers. It grows 
about two feet high, giving a fair sized spike of blooms. 

G. suaveclens (Fragrant).—If the Gladiolus were 
grown for fragrance alone, this species would be the one 
most sought. Its flowers are pale yellow, or straw col- 
ored, the upper petals dotted with red. It is only 
adapted for greenhouse culture. 

G. undulatus (Wavy).—This is a dwarf-growing 
species, producing pale yellow flowers with a broad red 
stripe through the center of each petal, on a slender 
stem. Rarely cultivated. 

G. viperatus (Viper).—It derives its common 
name from the resemblance of its flowers to a viper’s 
head. This species is more singular than beautiful. 
The very fragrant flowers are greenish-gray, with dark 
stripes. 


GLADIOLUS. 111 


As regards the species the reader will not be bene- 
fited by further descriptions. ‘Those noted include all 
that have distinct characters. Many are so little grown 
that but little interest can be attached to them. All’ 
there is of value or interest in the Gladiolus is centered 
in the hybrid forms, and in their cultivation and propa- 
gation. On these points much has already been said; 
much more can be said, on methods of reproduction, 
not only as regards the preservation and extension of 
the many valuable varieties already grown, but also in 
the obtaining of new varieties. 

Hybrid Gladiolus.—There is no class of plants 
that has been so much improved by hybridization as the 
Gladiolus, nearly every effort being crowned with suc- 
cess, not only when a cross between species has been 
effected, but in the cross-fertilization of varieties. As 
soon as the first cross had been perfected in the develop- 
ment of its flowers, the capabilities of the flower were at 
once manifest. The changes in form, size and combina- 
tion of colors were marvelously rapid, and so pleasing 
that the work was pushed with an enthusiasm that 
knew no bounds. The labor and care in cross-fertiliza- 
tion was so little in comparison with results obtained, 
that varieties almost innumerable were given distinctive 
names, many of which have long since been lost sight of, 
and their places filled by yet more beautiful forms. 
The work is still going on, and there is, seemingly, no 
limit to the changes that can be produced. 

The first cross between the species resulted in the 
well known G. gandavensis, about which there has been 
much controversy and great misunderstanding. It has 
been regarded by many as a species, or as a distinct race ; 
whence or how it sprang no one seemed to know, 
although to us its origin seemed as clear as that of any 
hybrid form. 

Louis Van Houtte, the late and most distinguished 
hurseryman and author, whose authority was undisputed 


— 


——- 
went, eee 


ce a a > a ll pee 


112 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


on all other subjects, said that it was produced at Ghent, 
and was a cross between G. psittacinus and G. cardinalis. 
However satisfactory this statement may have been to 


florists in general, it by no means settled the parentage 


of that noble class. The late Hon. and Rev. William 
Herbert, an acknowledged authority on bulbs, said Mr. 
Van Houtte was in error, because, after repeated 
attempts to hybridize these species he, Mr. Herbert, 
could not succeed, consequently it was an impossibility, 
and that Mr. Van Houtte must have been mistaken as 
to the origin of G. gandavensis. All the English author- 
ities agreed with Mr. Herbert, and in every treatise on 
the Gladiolus his opinion was quoted as correct. 

We can easily understand why results can be reached 
in one country, that are impossible in another. The 
difference in climatic influences are sufficient to prevent 
in one case, what it is easy to accomplish in another. 
Certain it is, that in the origin of G. gandavensis, a new 
race began, and to it we are indebted for the fine garden 
varieties now so extensively cultivated. While crosses 
between this hybrid and the species are easily effected, 
it has not been necessary to resort to further hybridiza- 
tion to accomplish the most wonderful results. 

We wish, at this point, to correct the common error 
of calling the new varieties that annually appear, ‘‘ hy- 
brids.” They are not, in any sense, hybrids, and rarely 
are they the results of cross-fertilization. They are 
simply choice seedlings, creatures of accident. We have 
raised from seed, either especially cross-fertilized, or 
carefully selected from the best named sorts, or from 
seed taken at random from our fields, in all, more than 
a million corms; among the number some of the best 
known varieties are, Isaac Buchanan, Martha Washing- 
ton, Bayard Taylor and Charlotte Cushman. In all 
our efforts to produce a desired effect we have failed, 
and, instead, we have been favored with some remarkably 


GLADIOLUS. i; 


good forms that we did not anticipate. From seeds 
saved from the best flowers, we have secured excellent 
results; while from seeds gathered at random, we have 
had some of the best flowers we have ever grown. From 
a long and varied experience in growing the Gladiolus 
from seed, we are fully convinced of the folly of attempt- 
ing to secure any given form or color by any artificial 
means ; convinced that form and color are wholly beyond 
control; that the offspring are liable to have any of the 
colors of the original species, or any combination or vari- 
ation of color that the originals could produce. It is 
held, and, as a rule, correctly, that by persistent selec- 
tion of any given form, a type can be secured; that if 
we save seed from the best, or only the purest white, we 
can finally secure seed that will give only white flowers ; 
or at least we can finally secure a pure white variety. 
The same is said of the yellows or scarlets. Our experi- 
ence with Gladiolus has been the reverse. For instance, 
Isaac Buchanan is the nearest a clear golden yellow of 
any known variety, if we except one found among our 
seedlings recently, and the seed from which it was pro- 
duced was not taken from a yellow flower. Again, 
among the seedlings we annually find types almost 
like Brenchleyensis, which rarely, if ever, produces seed, 
and which we have never attempted to save. Yet we 
get flowers from the first flowering of every bed of seed- 
lings almost identical. The same is true in every respect 
with John Bull, a standard white variety. We are, 
therefore, forced to believe that new forms result from 
conditions little understood. Certain it is that good 
cultivation, in a congenial soil and climate, will be the 
best rewarded. 

There is no other pleasure in gardening equal to 
that which comes from the growing of Gladiolus from 
seed. The certainty of getting some remarkably fine 
varieties is absolute; that in a bed, no matter how large, 

8 


— eg i EIT IT en 
= Pa wise ee 


114 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


there will be no two alike; that all will be showy, and 
that some will be so grotesque as to cause us to tender 
our sympathies to the afflicted parents, are not only 
among the possibilities, but the probabilities of growing 
seedlings. By long growing of a given variety we find 
its constitution is lable to become impaired, that many 
sorts sicken and die. All varieties will soon run out 
unless propagation from offsets is constantly kept up. 
Seedlings have usually greater vitality for a number of 
years than the sorts grown from offsets, and, unless a 
certain variety of merit is to be perpetuated, it is de- 
cidedly better to increase our stock from seed. For 
mixtures furnished “‘ the trade,” we resort to this method 
wholly. Flowering bulbs can be produced as quickly 
from seed as from bulblets, with a certainty of greater 
variety, and a chance of some remarkable forms. 

Selecting Gladiolus Seed.—While there is no 
certainty that the seed saved and sown will produce 
remarkable results, it is decidedly better to save seed 
from the best and most vigorous forms. That is a prin- 
ciple in seed-saving, and should be respected with the 
Gladiolus. It is a good indication to strive for the best, 
whatever may be the result. Bad habits in anything 
should not be encouraged ; therefore, in selecting seeds, 
take from the plants, with characters such as one would 
like to see in the offspring, health, form and well-defined 
colors, this is in the true line of improvement, whether 
successful or not. 

The Seed Bed.—The ground should be worked 
well and deep, whatever the character of the soil, and as 
nearly level as convenient to avoid washing out, in case 
of heavy rain. Prepare, in all respects, the same as for 
any garden vegetable; sow the seeds thickly in rows, 
sufficiently far enough apart to work with the hoe; 
cover the seeds with fine soil, half an inch deep. Then 
cover the whole bed with newly cut grass, fine hay, or 


GLADIOLUS. 115 


lattice frames that will exclude nearly all the sun. This 
will keep the soil moist and prevent baking, two essen- 
tial conditions. If the seed is good and the conditions are 
favorable, the young plants will appear thickly in from 
two to three weeks. When well up remove the cover- 
ing, and at all times keep the soil well worked and free 
from weeds. If the weather is not too dry their growth 
will not be checked until frost, when they should be 
lifted and stored in a dry, dark room, free from frost, 
but cool. Ours are 
stored in a dry cellar, 
heated only in case of 
necessity. The bet- 
ter plan is to put 
them in shallow box- 
es, so that the corms 
will not be more than 
two inches in depth ; 
it is not necessary to 
put any soil with 
them, or covering over 
them. If the seed 
bed is in good condi- 
tion, and the season 
favorable for their 
growth, the corms 
will be from one- GLADIOLUS CORM WITH FULL 
fourth to an inch in Seat ial. 
diameter, the latter rarely. Fully three-fourths of them 
will bloom the second year. 

Propagation by Offsets.—Increase of desirable 
varieties is effected by the small corms or bulblets that 
form at the base of the new corm; some varieties increase 
very rapidly, others slowly, and many of our best seed- 
lings have failed to produce any, consequently the vari- 
ety is soon lost. It matters not how desirable the variety 


we 


116 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


may be; if it does not produce offsets when it first 
flowers, it never will, and, with very rare exceptions, it is 
thrown among the mixtures. Why one variety increases 


.so fast, and another not at all, is another of the 


mysteries that attends the cultivation of the Gladiolus. 
We have taken from a single corm of Brenchleyensis, not 
half an inch in diameter when planted, more than two 
hundred little corms, while we should consider ourselves 
fortunate in getting a dozen from many of the other 
varieties. Most of the yellows increase with equal rapid- 
ity. This will, in a measure, account for the differences 
in price of many old-established varieties. Noticeably 
among these is Princess Mary of Cambridge, a truly 
splendid flower, which does not increase with us by off- 
sets, and its increase in Europe is but slow. La 
Candeur increases rapidly with us and but slowly in 
France. We find, in this country, that its increase in 
some sections is far more rapid than in others. 

The little corms, or sets, may be sown as early in 
the spring as the soil can be put in suitable condition. 
Prepare the ground the same as for peas, sow in the 
drills quite thickly, say one hundred to the foot of drill; 
cover with half an inch of fine soil, work in the same 
manner as recommended for the seed bed, only mulching 
is unnecessary. ‘Take up as soon as the leaves begin to 
wither, which is usually about the middle of September, 
store in the same manner as the young seedlings. The 
bulbs from the offsets will be somewhat larger than 
those from seed, but no greater proportion of them will 
flower the second year. 

General Cultivation of the Gladiolus.—For early 
flowers plant the corms as soon as the ground is in condi- 
tion for planting, no matter how early ; even though the 
surface may freeze slightly after planting, it will not 
injure the corms in the least. It is the better plan to 
reserve the larger and stronger corms for late flowering, 


GLADIOLUS. 17 


although they will bloom earlier than the smaller ones 
if planted at the same time. Although the Gladiolus is 
a desirable flower at all seasons, and can be had in the 
open border from June until November, in the latitude 
of New York, it appears to the best advantage late in 
the season, when the weather is cool, and the atmosphere 
moist. During August and the early part of September 
the hot sun and drying winds seriously affect the flowers. 
The spikes are short, the individual blooms small and 
withered, and, moreover, they do not endure nearly so 
long. It does not matter so 
much about the heat, if they 
can have proportionate 
moisture. For small plats, 
where the flowers are wanted 
in midsummer, plantings , 
should be made, so that when {fi 
the flower stalks appear they \\\ 
can have protection from the \\ 
sun during the hottest part 
of the day. This can easily 
be done with a light screen, 
white paper or very thin 
muslin answering very well. 
For succession of bloom 
frequent plantings are desira- 
ble. This can be accom- 
plished in the same bed, by 
planting, first, the corms in 
rows, say one foot apart, two inches apart in the rows, 
and two weeks later planting another row between the 
first two, which will allow plenty of room for growth. 
Later plantings can be made wherever there is a vacant 
spot, always bearing in mind the importance of giving 
them an open, airy situation. For late planting small 
bulbs will not answer, as they are liable to get so dried 


HALF GROWN GLADIOLUS 
CORM WITH THE OLD 
CORM ATTACHED. 


118 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


out that their vitality becomes impaired. For this pur 
pose choose the strongest corms, keep them in a dark 
cellar, and as cold as possible so long as the temperature 
‘does not fall below the freezing point. The latest plant- 
ing can be made the middle of July. It is better, how- 
ever, not to defer a general late planting after July 5th. 
A light frost, such as would destroy many tender plants, 
does not injure the Gladiolus, and, by throwing a sheet, 
or other light covering over the plants, — will with- 
stand Te. degrees of frost. 

All lovers of these noble flowers should grow suffi- 
cient corms, either from seed or from offsets, that a 
liberal use can be made of them. In the vegetable gar- 
den there are always vacant spots, where a hundred, or 
more, bulbs can be planted, after some other crop has 
been secured. There is no other flower so useful for 
parlor decoration, or for any purpose where cut flowers 
are desired. If cut when the first flower opens, the spike 
will develop its blooms quite as well in water in the 
house, as out of doors; in fact, better than if left in 
the open sun. 

Field Culture of Gladiolus.—There is no better 
place to show the capabilities of any plant than in the 
field, where 1t can have all the attention, in the way of — 
good cultivation, it needs, with the elements all in its 
favor. The Gladiolus is no exception to the rule ; no other 
plant needs so frequent visits from the cultivator, none 
appreciates them more. But the cultivator must not be 
set to work deep. When the teeth go down so as to 
mutilate the roots, great injury is done. All that is 
required is to keep the surface of the soil light, which 
prevents it from drying up. Work deep before planting, 
but always shallow afterwards. 

The soil is prepared as for potatoes, without the 
use of stimulating manures. The rows are furrowed out 
thirty inches apart with a small plow, following this with 


GLADIOLUS. 119 


the fertilizer distributor, after which we scatter the 
corms in the drill at the rate of from ten to twenty to the 
foot, then cover with the same implement that is used 
for corn or potatoes, and the work is complete. When 
the leaves begin to break through the surface, we go 
over the field with a fine wire-tooth harrow; this effect- 
ually gets rid of the first crop of weeds, after which the 
cultivator is kept going. Im a season prolific of weeds 
we have been compelled to go over the ground ten times. 
Under any circumstances, we go through the rows with 
cultivator after every rain, whether there are weeds to 
kill or not. This keeps the soil in the best possible con- 
dition, keeps down the weeds, and saves an immense 
amount of hand labor. We commence to take up our 
corms about the middle of September, using a subsoil 
plow to lift them; then they are taken from the rows, 
the tops cut close to the corm, and are then put away in 
racks in the cellar, eight feet deep, with plenty of space 
for air between, each rack containing about five hundred 
flowering corms. This plan of cultivation and storing 
Sf the corms we consider the best that can be adopted, 
_and the nearer it can be imitated in the garden, the 
nearer the grower will reach perfect success. 

Soils for Gladiolus.—What soils are best is an 
oft-repeated question, to which we must reply that, as 
far as this is concerned, the best is the one we have. ‘The 
Gladiolus dislikes a heavy clay, but will thrive in almost 
any other, its preference being for a light loam, or a 
moist, sandy soil. If the ground be heavy, work it 
thoroughly and plant shallow, not more than two inches 
below the surface. If the soil be light, work in the 
same manner, only cover the corms with four inches of 
soil. Itis best to use what is termed sod-ground when 
practicable, or to plant in soil that has been heavily 
manured for a previous crop. Fresh manure will prove 
injurious. It is also important, in planting, not to 


oa 


120 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


return to the same soil in less than three years. Disease 
will always follow repeated plantings in the same soil. 
This is one reason why failures and loss of plants are so 


frequent. 


Deterioration in Gladiolus.—The question is 
often asked, ‘‘ Does the Gladiolus run out, or deteriorate, 
and does it ever revert back to the species?” Many 
amateurs have asserted that theirs have changed; that 
where two years ago they had none other than the best, 
now they had none but the poorest. We have ever held 
this to be impossible; but that a change in the general 
appearance of the bed might come because of the fact 
that some varieties increase rapidly by division, while 
others rapidly die out because of feeble constitutions. 

“But,” says a great admirer of the Gladiolus, “I 
never had in my collection any such colors as are now 
the predominating ones in my garden; they are not as 
good as the original Gandavyensis.” We replied that is 
simply an impossibility, unless aided by human hands. 
Two years after, he again commenced with an entirely 
new collection ; as yet he has not made his report, which 
we are fearful will be as unfavorable as the first. 

We will give the reasons for our fears. Three years 
ago we planted our stock of Adanson, one of the grand- 
est of the rosy-lilac kinds, consisting of several thousand 
corms, which we knew to be absolutely free from mix- 
ture. When they came into flower, to our surprise, 
more than one-half of the lot was as far from the type as 
it was possible to get, having a color we had never before 
seen, something like that of Psittacinus, while the form 
was not unlike that of Adanson. In this matter we 
could not be deceived, as we had never a flower of the 
kind on the place. ‘That season, as well as last year, we 
marked every bulb that was true to its description, and 
this year the same change is as apparent as before. 
What is more singular, this interpolator is nowhere else 


GLADIOLUS. 121 


to be found in ovr fields. While this change is serious, 
it affords a rich field for study. From this incident, we 
shall no longer say that the Gladiolus does not sport or 
revert towards the species. ‘This is, however, the only 
incident of the kind we have ever noticed. 

Forcing the Gladiolus.—The Gladiolus, for deco- 
rative purposes during the winter season, has been of 
late considerably used ; many growers haying been very 
successful in bringing it in at the proper time, making 
it a profitable branch of their industry. This had the 
tendency to induce others, who had not sufficient knowl- 
edge of its requirements to make a success of the enter- 
prise, to plant on a large scale. Like all other under- 
takings, with hope, rather than experience, as a guide, 
it has not been as profitable as might be desired. But 
few men have been entirely successful; among the few 
is John Thorpe, of Pearl River, N. Y., who knows 
the Gladiolus well, and knowing, acts accordingly. The 
flowers he produced reached the full measure of their 
capabilities. His article from the Garden and Forest, 
will give ail the information required to successfully 
force the Gladiolus. We quote the article entire. ‘‘ The 
Gladiolus, when grown as a forced flower, is appreciated 
to a greater extent than when grown out of doors. 
Like many other flowers, it is better under the protec- 
tion of glass when well cared for, as the flowers are 
larger, the colors purer and the spikes longer. ‘To force 
Gladiolus successfully, however, requires attention at 
just the right time, and its wants should always be antici- 
pated and supplied. Here is the routine of my prac- 
tice: The bulbs I forced this year were also forced last 
year. They were then planted February 8th, and the 
first twenty-five flowers were cut May 30th. This year’s 
work began December 27th by potting each bulb in a 
four-inch pot, using sandy loam, without manure, and 
placing the bulb on the top, pressing it down to hold it 


122 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


without any other covering ; they were watered and then 
placed underneath the benches of a Carnation-house 
until the beginning of February. At that time those 


‘plants which had grown to the height of four inches 


were brought to the light and again watered. Placing 
them close together on a bench near the light, a little 
water was given from time to time, retarding the top 
growth, and encouraging root-action as much as possible. 
By the twentieth of the month the plants were gone 
over, and all those of an even size were planted together 
in rows about a foot apart, and nine inches apart in the 
rows. After planting those of one size, then another 
batch a size less was handled. ‘This selecting into sizes 
pays for all the trouble it costs in preventing strong 
plants from overcrowding the weaker ones. My soil is 
rather a heavy sandy loam, and in this the bulbs 
were planted, the depth of the entire bed being a little 
more than four inches. ‘The bulbs were scarcely covered 
even at this time, and this, I find, prevents the damping 
off of the plants during dull days, when they have com- 
menced to grow rapidly, and are checked either by dark 
weather or by a cold spell. By the middle of March 
each plant was tied securely to prevent its falling over, 
which is generally ruinous to the flower-spike; a lght 
mulching of stable-manure was then put on and well 
watered. From that time until the flowers were cut a 
good soaking of liquid manure was given each week. 
The Gladiolus delights in moisture when well along in 
growth, but in its earlier stages too much water is death 
to it. The first twenty-five flowers were cut for Haster, 
or six weeks earlier than last year. The temperature 
was never higher than 50° at night, and during the day- 
time the house was ventilated whenever it could be kept 
above 70° F. ‘Three things I find are necessary to success- 
fully force the Gladiolus : 

1. The pots must be well filled with roots before 
the plants are finally set out. 


GLADIOLUS. 1335 


2. The nearer the bulbs are to the surface the less, 
liable are the plants to damp off. 

3. The bulbs inust be weli ripened—and if so, small 
ones are as good as very large ones.” 

We would add to the above a list of varieties best 
adapted for forcing, saying selection should be made 
from the kinds that come earliest into flower out of 
doors, and, at the same time, such as have the most 
positive colors and best defined markings. Among these 
are the following, which are as many varieties as it is 
profitable to grow: 

Shakespeare.—The best in the list, both as a 
flower and a grower; flowers large, on a long and well- 
opened spike, creamy white, with delicate carmine-rose 
markings, and a heavy blotch on the lower divisions. 

La Candeur.—A grand flower, nearly pure white 
when grown under glass, having a long spike of well- 
opened flowers of good shape and substance. 

Romulus.—One of the earliest flowers; dark red, 
with pure white blotch and markings on lower petals. 

Brenchleyensis.—One of the best and cheapest ; 
a long spike of vermilion-scarlet flowers; one of the 
easiest to force. 

Eugene Scribe.—This is always a pleasing flower, 
and greatly improved when grown under glass. The 
flowers are large, a delicate rose color, finely variegated 
with darker rose; spike very long, with the flowers well- 
arranged and well-opened. It is decidedly the best- 
variegated form under cultivation. 

Isaac Buchanan.—A clear, fine yellow, with but 
little marking on the lower division. 

John Bull.—A good white, when grown under 
glass; it is early, and largely employed because of its 
cheapness. 

Napoleon III.—A medium-sized bright scarlet 
flower, lower divisions striped with creamy white. 


124 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


The first six mentioned are considered the best, and 
all that are really profitable to grow under glass; they 
include all the desired colors, and are the best of their 
‘respective classes. 

Varieties for General Cultivation.—The selec- 
tion of varieties for general cultivation is an individual 
matter depending wholly upon the number required and 
the taste of the one making the selection. As with all 
other plants, tastes differ, one preferring self-colored 
flowers, as far as possible; others the more positive and 
well defined colors ; again, others preferring the neutral 
tints only. Unfortunately, catalogue descriptions are 
misleading. Our named varieties in the Gandavensis 
section being largely of French origin, a corruption of 
the French language has been used in the description, 
which, in many cases, does not describe; and in very 
many instances the same description is given to a great 
number of varieties that are entirely different in their 
general characters. For instance, the flowers of Ceres, 
Shakespeare, or Princess of Wales, would answer the 
description given to either, although there is a vast dif- 
ference in the general appearance of the three flowers. 

If a fine display of good flowers is desired, it is bet- 
ter to select wisely from the named sorts, and then keep 
up a stock by growing from the offsets; although 
it is more expensive at the start, in the end, if the off- 
sets are carefully saved and grown, the expense will be 
very light compared with that of the more generally 
grown bedding plants, that must be renewed annually. 
The following twenty-five varieties, from a list of nearly 
five hundred, are the best of the Gandavensis section for 
general cultivation; they fairly represent the class for 
color, and are all vigorous growers. 

Abricote.—Apricot-rose color, with a large, well- 
formed flower. 

Adanson.—Fine rose, with darker rose markings, 
and white blotch and lines. 


GLADIOLUS. 125 


Africani.—A magnificent variety, slaty-brown on 
scarlet ground, with a conspicuous white blotch on lower 
divisions. A fine spike. 

Angele. — An effective flower; white, slightly 
marked with crimson. 

Brenchleyensis.—One of the oldest varieties, and 
one of the best. Bright vermillion scarlet. 

Ceres.—White, lower divisions heavily marked 
with rose. 

Emma Thursby.—American ; white ground, with 
deep rose markings and blotches through all the petals. 
One of the most showy and effective of the variegated 
sorts. 

Eugene Scribe.—Delicate rose, variegated with 
darker rose; one of the best. 

Gen. Phil. Sheridan.—American ; a grand flower, 
fire red, with = distinct white line running through each 
petal, and a pure white blotch on the lower petals. 

Golden Gem.—New American; a very long spike 
of rich golden yellow flowers, slightly tinged with rose 
at the base of the petals. The best yellow yet introduced. 

Hesperide.—White ground, blotched and flaked 
with rosy salmon. 

Isaac Buchanan.—American ; aclear rich yellow, 
slightly tinted with rose on the lower petals. 

La Candeur.—Clear white, with a delicate pink 
tint on the edge of petals; a fine long and well-shaped 
spike. 

Lamarck.—Clear cherry, with white lines. 

Le Poussin.—Clear light red, with pure white 
throat, rather dwarf, flowers medium sized, but very 
effective. 

Martha Washington.—American ; a tall growing 
form, of branching habit; flowers clear light yellow, 
slightly shaded with carmine, very large, and somewhat 
loosely arranged on a long spike. This shows to the 


126 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


best advantage when cut and put in a vase, as the sun is 
liable to discolor the flowers. 

Mme. Monneret.—A clear, delicate rose, short 
spike, very fine for a late bloomer. 

Meyerbeer.—One of the very best, flowers well 
arranged, large, spike long. Color crimson-scarlet famed 
with vermilion. 

Napoleon III.—Fine scarlet, heavy, with stripe 
on the lower petals. 

Nestor.—Light yellow ground, with darker yellow 
stripes and markings. : 

President Lincoln.—American ; blush-white back- 
ground, with the edges of the petals suffused with bright 
rose, the lower divisions heavily blotched and finely lined 
with crimson. Flowers very large, and well arranged in 
a long spike. Not a showy variety, but remarkably 
pleasing. 

Romulus.—Very showy, fine dark red, with pure 
white blotch and markings. 

Snow White.—American ; the nearest pure white 
variety yet offered for sale. Under ordinary circum- 
stances nearly the entire flower is a perfect paper-white, 
with a slight cream shade on lower half of the lower 
petal. The spikes are of fair size, flowers well arranged. — 

Schiller.—Sulphur, with large carmine blotch and 
markings. 

Shakespeare.—Ivory white ground, suffused car- 
mine-rose, large rosy blotch on lower division; early 
and constant. One of the best. 

The Lemoine Hybrids.—The birth of the Le- 
moine Hybrids marked a new era in Gladiolus culture ; 
the hybrids of Gandavensis and their offspring had, 
seemingly, reached their summit of perfection. Genius, 
like a vine without support, was swaying to and fro for 
a subject upon which it could bestow its limitless treas- 
ures of grace and beauty, and keep alive the warm inter- 


GLADIOLUS. psi 


est so long centered in this noble class of plants, a class 
the systematic botanist respects as highly as the florist, 
because the wonderful developments in form, and the 
marvellous changes, separations and variations in colors, 
had not, from nature’s standpoint, in any way trans- 
formed a natural form into a monstrosity. 

To M. Victor Lemoine, of Nancy, France, we are 
indebted for a new race, that bears his name; a race so 
distinct and so gorgeously colored as to awaken the most 
lively interest in cross-fertilization, with the full assur- 
ance that variation has by no means exhausted her 
resources. Mr. Wm. Falconer, whose delineation of 
floral forms is always accurate, speaks of these so truth- 
fully, in the American Florist, that we quote as follows : 
««¢Temoine’s hybrids’ are a race of Gladiolus that was 
obtained by M. Victor Lemoine, of France, by crossing 
Gladiolus purpureo-auratus with a variety of G. Ganda- 
vensis. Some of these hybrids are very beautiful. The 
attempt is made to secure brilliance of color, and at the 
same time retain the characteristic form of Purpureo- 
auratus, for there is quite an inclination among seed- 
lings to partake strongly of the Gandavensis form. ‘The 
flowers are small, sometimes campanulate, and frequently 
hooded, but their most positive character is the rich 
crimson-purple blotch on the two, or often three, lower — 
segments. The plants are vigorous and healthy, but 
somewhat slender; the flower spikes are moderately 
long, but often slender, and the blossoms are more 
remotely placed in the spikes than is usual in the Gan- 
davensis, or are crowded near the end of the spike. 

«‘These hybrids have the reputation of being hardy, 
but they are not. Simply because we meet occasional 
instances where they may have survived the winter, is 
no proof at all of their hardiness. In cultivating them 
plant them out early in the season and let them stay in 
the ground late. In the fall they seem to be ripe long 


128 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


before they are really fit to dig. Our object is to get 
the little bulbs well ripened, for, unlike the bulblets of 
most other species that nestle close to the base of the 
large bulb, these shoot off a little way and seem to be 
softer than other bulblets, and they are more difficult to 
keep over winter. 

‘‘Their intense colors, dark purple, crimson and 
gold, may appeal strongly in favor of them as cut flowers ; 
at the same time, there are so many of lilacs, purples, 
dirty yellows and dirty whitish colors among them, that 
they cannot find popular favor. And they have another 
fault, the buds do not open well in water. I am in- 
formed that Lemoine has got something extraordinary 
in this line in the way of brilliant colors, and even a 
blue one.” 

We cannot agree wholly with Mr. Falconer in regard 
to colors, although his is but the expression of popular 
opinion. ‘To be pleasing, positive, bold colors are not 
necessary, essential as they may be for display. Some 
of the neutral tints, ‘‘dirty” colors, of this type, are 
decidedly interesting when closely examined, as all flow- 
ers should be, to be understood and appreciated. The 
following list includes the most striking colors and beau- 
tiful forms of this class, and fairly represents the type. 

Enfant de Nancy.—Flowers medium size; pur- 
plish-red, lower petals deep crimson. Color and blotch- 
ing entirely unknown heretofore in Gladiolus. 

Engesseri.—Very deep pink ; lower petals blotched 
bright maroon. 

Froebeli.— Flesh-colored, streaked with pink; 
carmine blotch, bordered with yellow. 

John Thorpe.—Splendid plant ; beautiful brilliant 
red, blotched with flame, bordered with sulphur, center 
of petals lined with yellow. 

Lafayette.—Flowers very large; yellowish salmon, 
large crimson blotches on the lower petals. 


GLADIOLUS. 129 


Lemoinei.—Fine, good size flowers, closely set on 
the spike, which is about one foot long; upper petals of a 
creamy white color, tinted salmon-red, the lower ones 
spotted with deep purplish-crimson, bordered with bright 
yellow and salmony red. 

Marie Lemoine.—Long spike of fine well-ex- 
panded flowers; upper divisions of a pale creamy color, 
flushed with salmon-lilac, the lower divisions spotted 
purplish-violet, and bordered deep yellow. 

Masque de Fer.—F lowers very open, medium 
size ; bronze-red, the two lower lateral divisions entirely 
_ velvety black, with a yellow arrow in the center of the 

spot; plant dwarf. 

Obelisk. — Flowers large, violet; lower petals 
blotched brown, spotted with sulphur. 

Rochambeau.—F lowers large, salmon, lower petals 
dark salmon ; blotched purple. 

Stanley.—Red ; lower petals dark yellow, blotched 
with blood-red. 

_ Talma.—Pale lilac; lower divisions violet-brown. 

Victor Hugo.—Flowers very large; rose colored, 
lower petals dark sulphur, blotched with vermillion. 

We cannot dismiss this class without saying that 
for display, or for decorative purposes, they do not com- 
pare favorably with the Gandavensis section. 

The Max Leichtlin Hybrids.—The surprise cre- 
ated by the introduction of the Lemoine Hybrids had 
no sooner died away, than another class of equal mag- 
nitude was announced, of a cross between ( Saundersti 
and a variety of G. Gandavensis, which was effected by 
the celebrated bulb grower, Max Leichtlin, of Baden 
Baden, Germany. These hybrids are remarkable in 
many respects, and in all respects they are superior to 
either parent. For size and shape of flowers they have 
no equals in the various classes; some of the individual 
flowers are immense, fully five inches across; the spikes 

9 


130 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


are long and the flowers well arranged. Thus far the 
variety of colors is not great, and but very few of them 
are striking, positive or well defined; no good whites, 
scarlets or yellows. Besides, the flowers are wanting in 
substance; they bruise easily, and do not seem to de- 
velop well in vases. But it must be remembered this is 
a new race and has not reached its capabilities; it has 
only outlined them. Further efforts will undoubt- 
edly give to them enormous size and remarkable shape, 
color and substance. Seedlings have already been pro- 
duced from them, showing considerable improvement. 
With the colors of Meyerbeer, Golden Gem, Snow White 
and General Phil. Sheridan transmitted into their forms, 
we shall have a race that will make further improvement 
seem impossible. Mr. Leichtlin sold his entire product 
to a French house, which, in turn, sold to Messrs. Hal- 
lock & Son, of Long Island, N. Y. 


GLORIOSA. 
Climbing Lily. 

This bulb has but a slight claim to the name of lily, 
other than its alliance, and the term climbing is some- 
what strained. ‘The Gloriosa is a very handsome genus 
of greenhouse plants, of a sub-climbing character, bear- 
ing the same relation to climbing plants as does the Ivy- 
leaved Geranium, having only a slight tendency to climb. 
They require the same treatment as the Gesnera, and 
should have a light trellis for support. Their flowers 
bear as close a resemblance to Lilium philadelphicum, as 
to almost any other form. ‘They are curiously shaped, 
of a bright orange, blue or yellow color, and flower in 
the greenhouse the entire summer. ‘They are mostly 
natives of South Africa, and are increased by offsets. 
The species commonly met are: | 

G. superba.—A slender growing plant, but tall 
and showy. Under favorable circumstances it will attain 


GLOXINIA. 131 


a height of from six to eight feet. The first appearance 
of the flowers is disappointing, because of the predomi- 
nance of green. But the green, in a great measure, is 
soon changed to bright orange. 

G. simplex.—A species from Portugal, has flowers 
of a delicate blue color, and is of delicate habit, rarely 
reaching a height of two feet. 

G. virescens.—This flower is nearly all green when 
first opened, but changes to yellow when older. Itisa 
native of Mozambique. 

G. nepalensis.—A native of Nepal; is the hardi- 
est of the species, although not as showy as G@. superba. 
It grows about two feet high; flowers bright yellow. 


GLOXINIA. 


Nearly all the species that make up this splendid 
genus of flowering plants are natives of South America, 
and are usually found in deep ravines, on rather high 
mountain elevations, and always in damp, much shaded 
situations. When we take into account their distinct- 
ness, their continuous flowering habit, the exquisite 
colors they possess, their forms of matchless beauty, and 
the ease with which they may be grown, it will at once 
be admitted that few plants so well deserve the attention 
they require as the Gloxinias. They flower continuously 
through the spring and summer, and, when grown in 
pots, are very valuable for decorative purposes, while the 
flowers are exceedingly useful for small vases and for all 
purposes where cut flowers are used. 

With the Gloxinia, as with many other flowers, 
selection and hybridization, together with a number of 
accidental sports, have removed the original species from 
cultivation. The original forms, with their drooping 
flowers, have been superseded by flowers with the corolla 
almost regular, and perfectly erect ; this latter peculiar- 
ity is an important improvement, as the border and — 


132 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


throat of the corolla are fully presented to the eye, show- 
ing, at a glance, the full beauty of the flower. Cultiva- 
tion has wrought wonderful changes in the general char-. 
acter of this flower; forms have been greatly improved, 
colors intensified, substance enhanced, and the number 
of flowers on a given plant greatly increased. 

The most interesting class of Gloxinias are the 
spotted varieties, the origin of which is quite as interest- 


HYBRID GLOXINIAS. 


ing as the flowers themselves. Their origin is described 
in the Garden as follows: ‘It has frequently occurred 
that a certain family, or species, which may not have 
shown, during a series of years, any great tendency to 
sport, all at once gives us something novel and beautiful. 
M. Vallerand, with whom the spotted varieties origi- 
nated, assiduously crossed the best known varieties, but, 


GLOXINIA. 133 


although he annually raised a large number of seedlings, 
he could not succeed in obtaining anything better than 
those already in cultivation. Being discouraged at find- 
ing his best efforts so poorly rewarded, he had deter- 
mined to relinquish the attempt. His seedlings that 
season (1877) had nearly all bloomed, with the same 
result. There remained but a few weak plants to flower. 
Curiously enough, on the weakened and latest seedling 
appeared a single flower, so distinct and beautifully 
marked that M. Vallerand declared that he was quite 
taken by surprise. It may be easily imagined how that 
plant was cherished, the flower carefully fertilized, and 
precaution taken to destroy every other bloom near it. 
The seed ripened, and from this sprang many other 
charming forms.” 

Another interesting form has appeared in Gloxinia 
Gesnerioides, a cross sent out by Messrs. Carter, of Lon- 
don, between the Gloxinia and the Gesnera. It is but 
little known in this country, but is described as follows: 
«“This desirable novelty is the result of hybridizing the 
Gloxinia with the Gesnera, and the peculiar properties 
of both species are fully united, for while carrying the 
graceful habit and beautifully colored foliage of the 
Gesnera, it produces the magnificent flowers so identified 
with the Gloxinia.” 

We make no attempt at a description of the natural 
species, as they are no longer in cultivation ; neither the 
florists’ varieties, as these are innumerable. The great 
pleasure in growing the Gloxinia comes from seedlings, 
which are so readily and easily produced, and which fur- 
nish such an endless variety of form and color, all desir- 
able, that named varieties are not essential to the most 
beautiful collection. 

The cultivation of the Gloxinia is very simple, and 
nowhere have we seen it so well managed as by William 
Falconer, Esq., of Glen Cove, Long Island. We give his 


134 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


method, graphically portrayed in his own language, as 
follows: ‘‘In March (1884) I bought a dollar packet 
.of Gloxinia seeds, the finest strain in the market, and 
containing no more seeds than an ordinary fifty cent 
packet. I sowed them in a shallow seed-pan that was 
well drained and filled with light, sandy, fine soil, and 
kept in a warm greenhouse on a shelf near the glass. In 
two weeks’ time a good many of the seedlings were up, 
and in about three weeks the whole crop appeared; but 
it was about five weeks from sowing time before I ven- 
tured to prick them off. Then I pricked them off singly 
into other shallow seed pans prepared as before, and 
afterwards, as soon as their leaves began to crowd each 
other, transplanted them into boxes, there to remain 
until the end of May. ; 
‘By this time I had much frame room, and I made 
up a hotbed, waited until the heat was on the decline, 
then prepared it by filling in four or five inches deep 
with light, mellow soil, as if I were going to raise a lot of 
Stocks or Asters, and planted out my Gloxinias in it, 
about nine inches apart each way. I have kept them 
covered with sashes shaded with whitewash. ‘They are 
kept close at night, and in the daytime, according to 
the warmness and brightness of the day, the sashes are 
tilted up from two to six inches, but at no time do I 
allow sunshine to get on the plants. Any dampening 
leaf or decaying matter is removed as soon as observed, 
and I never water or syringe the plants overhead ; indeed, 
any watering required is done most carefully by intro- 
ducing the waterpot spout between the plants and under 
the leaves. 

‘During their whole life the plants have been kept 
close to the glass, shaded from sunshine, and dry over- 
head. These plants are to-day—the middle of July— 
exceedingly strong and luxuriant, their leaves crowded 
and overlapping each other, and they are blooming beau- 


GOLDEN LILY—GRIFFINIA. 135 


tifully, and I expect to have them in flower till Septem- 
ber. Then I shall let them dry up gradually till they 
lose their leaves, when I shall lift the roots, store them 
in earth in a shallow box, and keep them dry over win- 
ter. Next spring they will be available for pot culture 
for early flowers, or for again planting in frames. I pre- 
fer one and two-year-old plants to those that are older, 
hence would raise a fresh lot from seed every year.” 

The tubers should be started into growth about the 
first of March, or earlier, if they have sprouted. Give 
them three-inch pots, filled with light, sandy soil, made 
rich with thoroughly rotted manure. Place them in the 
warm greenhouse, shaded from the sun, but as near the 
light as possible. Shift into larger pots, as required. 
The atmosphere should always be warm and moist, and 
the plants should never suffer for want of water, but the 
leaves should never be wet on their upper surface. After 
flowering, water should generally be withheld until the 
plants are dry, then set away in some warm, dry place, 
until it is time to start into growth again. Any desired 
variety may be propagated by division of the tubers, or 
from leaf cuttings, in the same manner as the Rex vari- 
eties of the Begonia. The Gloxinia was named in honor 
of P. B. Gloxin, a botanist of Colmar. 


GOLDEN LILY. 
See Lycoris. 
GRAPE HYACINTH. 
See Muscari. 
GREEN DRAGON. 
See Arisema, Page 31. 
GRIFFINIA. 


A small genus of handsome greenhouse bulbs from 
South America, belonging to the natural order, Amaryl- 


136 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


lidacew, and producing large umbels of handsome bright 
purple flowers. ‘l'hey grow readily if treated the same 
as Hippeastrum (See Page 13). There are but three 
species generally cultivated. 

G. hyacinthina.—Flowers blue and white. 

G. parviflora.—F lowers pale purple. 

G. intermedia.—Bright blue flowers. 


GROUND NUT. 
See Apios, Page 31. 
GUERNSEY LILY. 
See Sarniensis, Page 21. 
GUINEA-HEN FLOWER. 
See Fritillaria, Page 92. 
HABRANTHUS. 


This genus is now classed with Hippeastrum (Page 
13), and is closely allied to Zephyranthes (Page 25). 


HAMANTHUS. 
Blood Flower. 


A genus of South American bulbs, more curious 
than beautiful; in fact, but one species, H. coccineus, 
is really worth cultivating, and this is remarkably showy. 
Its flowers, when fully expanded, form a perfect globe ; 
each individual flower is small, but the mass of brilliant 
scarlet is a very showy object. ‘The leaves of most of 
the species are very broad, long and thick, requiring con- 
siderable room. They need high heat and plenty of water 
when in active growth, which is only about four months 
of the year; the remainder of the time they demand 
rest. The flowers precede the leaves, in September. 


HAREBELL. 


See Scilla nutans. 


HA YLOCKIA—HERBERTIA. 137 


HAYLOCKIA. 


A small bulb from Buenos Ayres, allied to Cooperia 
and Zephyranthes. Flowers beautiful straw-color, pro- 
duced in September. The leaves remain green the entire 
winter, making it necessary to have greenhouse room, 
although it is not at all particular as to treatment. The 
foliage dies in spring. Propagation by seeds or offsets. 


HERBERTIA. 


A small genus of rare bulbs found near the Straits 
of Magellan, in South America. It requires pot culture. 
The flowers are somewhat like the Iris, of various colors, 
blue, white and pink. The bulbs are not in cultivation 
for the trade. 


HESPERANTHA. 
Evening Flower. 


A small genus of Cape of Good Hope bulbs allied to 
the Ixia, and thriving under the same general treatment. 
The flowers are small, but rather pretty, arranged in 
_ loose spikes; they expand during the evening, and are 
sweet scented, but remain closed during the day. The 
position they occupy does not warrant a description of 
the species. 


HESPEROSCORDON. 
A synonym of Brodiza, Page 45. 
HEXAGLOTTIS. 


This genus closely resembles Homeria, and belongs 
to a class that does not warrant cultivation. The flow- 
ers are yellow, and rather pretty. The bulbs of one of 
the species, H. flexuosa, are roasted and eaten, forming 
a large portion of the food of the Hottentots, 


HIPPEASTRUM. 
See Page 13. 


138 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


HOLLAND BULBS. 
See Fritillaria, Hyacinth, Narcissus and Tulip. 


HOMERIA., 


This is another of the many genera of Cape bulbs, 
belonging to Iridaceze, aud formerly included in the 
genus Morea. They are all ornamental, and remarka- 
ble for the abundance and long continuance of their 
flowers, lasting the entire summer. They require the 
protection of a frame during winter, but no other care 
is necessary to produce their flowers in the greatest 
abundance, or for the increase of their bulbs, which is 
by offsets. 

H. lineata.—The most common of the species ; 
flowers coppery red, with a metallic luster, produced 1 in 
abundance from June to September. 

H. elegans (spicata).—A beautrnl species with 
orange-yellow flowers. 

The other species do not materially differ from those 
described. They all have scarlet or yellow flowers, and 
are worthy of cultivation. 


HONEY GARLIC. 
See Nectaroscordum. 
HYACINTH. 


Prominent in the list of bulbs is the Hyacinth, and 
the one, moreover, which is most grown for early spring 
flowers in the garden, and for pot culture in the window 
garden. Although itis one of the best known bulbs, 
there are only three or four distinct species in the genus, 
and all our garden varieties have come from Hya- 
cinthus orientalis, a species that contains several varie- 
ties, the seeds from which, by cross-fertilization, which 
is readily affected, have produced varieties almost innu- 
merable, The early history of the garden Hyacinth is 


HYACINTH. ; 139 


but little known; Gerard, in his ‘‘ Herbal,” 1596, 
speaks of it as of a well-known flower, without saying 
when it was introduced, and he describes and figures 
several double varieties of the original species, which he 
says, simply, was brought from the East. The varieties 


HOUSE BLOOMING HYACINTHS. 


then known were blue, white or pink, which were the 
only colors known in the Hyacinth until about the com- 
mencement of the present century, when a few pale yel- 
low, or, rather, lemon-colored kinds were raised from 
seed. From these, by careful selection and cross-fertili- 
zation, great improvement in color, as well as form, has 
been made. 


140 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


Field Culture of Hyacinth Bulbs.—Much has 
been said and written in regard to the cultivation of the 
Hyacinth. We shall give ail the information known in 
regard to culture, as is practiced in Holland, informa- 
tion we have received from the best growers, and on 
their own grounds. It is well to remark here that the 
conditions of soil, in which the Hyacinth finds so con- 
genial a home in Holland, can rarely be found elsewhere. 
And further, that the Hyacinth will perfect its bloom, 
from bulbs grown in Holland, in any soil, or in water, 
even, providing all other conditions are favorable. Deep 
in the hidden scales of the bulb commenced last year 
those wonderful preparations, which will surely develop 
the flower this year, under almost any circumstances. 
The important part of cultivation consists in bringing 
the bulb up to the proper condition for flowering when 
we receive it. 

The Hyacinth likes a very sandy, well-prepared, fine 
and light soil, entirely free from stone or gravel, conse- 
quently looking as though it had been passed through a 
fine sieve. All kinds of loam or stiff soil, which bind so 
closely together that, when dry, the wind cannot sepa- 
rate their particles, as it does those of sand, must be 
avoided. In Holland a soil is considered particularly 
good which is hight gray, and which resembles fine, very 
sandy and light garden mold. This soil, which is very 
light of itself, is made still lighter by the addition of the 
thin sand of the Dutch downs, which is of a pale yellow 
color, and very fine. The only manure used is from the 
cow-stable, which must be quite pure, and not mixed 
with straw or any other substance. 

In preparing the Hyacinth beds, particular attention 
is paid to the following rules: 1. That no stimulating 
fertilizer must be mixed with the soil for a period of 
four years previous to plantmg. 2. That Hyacinths 
must not be grown in the same soil oftener than once in 


HYACINTH. 141 


four years. The latter rule must be respected ; because, 
if planted a year earlier, the decayed remains of the old 
bulbs would bring disease to the newly planted bulbs. 
The usual custom in Holland is to plant a bed the first 
year with Hyacinths, the second with Tulips, the third 
with Polyanthus Narcissus, and it is considered desira- 
ble to plant something similar the fourth year. The 
bed is generally prepared for Hyacinths the fourth sea- 
son. Between December and February the ground is 
dug two or three feet deep. In March the soil is covered 
to the depth of three inches with cow manure, then 
spaded in a foot deep. During the summer, vegetables, 
or annuals, which do not exhaust the soil, are grown on 
the bed. The following autumn the soil is dug two 
feet deep, taking care to let the manure, which was 
put on in the spring, remains a foot deep in the earth. 

In the beginning of October, planting commences in 
the following manner: ‘The whole piece of ground 
allotted for Hyacinths is divided into beds about five feet 
in width. The soil is taken from the surface of the first 
bed to the depth of from three to five inches, according 
to the size of the bulbs to be planted, and conveyed to 
the further side of the last bed in the piece of ground to 
be planted. The first bed then is carefully raked over 
and divided into rows a foot apart, and the bulbs placed 
on these rows, without pressing down, about six inches 
apart. ‘The second bed is dug out in like manner, and 
the earth which is taken from it is used for covering the 
bulbs in the first bed; and in this manner they proceed 
to the last bed, which is covered with the earth of the 
first bed. Very large, strong growing bulbs are planted 
six Inches deep, and further apart; while small buibs, 
such as are incapable of producing flowers, are scattered 
closely in the rows, and not covered so deeply. The 
weather should be dry during the time of planting, as 
continued wet weather is liable to cause rot. 


142 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


After planting, the beds are kept clear of weeds, 
nicely raked and made ready for covering on the approach 
of frost, which usually occurs about the first of Decem- 
ber. ‘The covering is made of reeds, which grow in 
immense quantities on the banks of the canals and 
ditches everywhere found in Holland. The first cover- 
ing is of the partially decayed reeds used the previous 
season ; upon these the new reeds are placed, to the 
depth of several inches, and kept down by means of pegs. 
When the covering is completed the beds are as neat 
and orderly as the ones in which their owners sleep.-_ 
About the first of March, when frost is no longer appre- 
hended, the covering of the beds is taken off, and the 
surface carefully cleaned and raked, after which they 
are watered with a mixture of cow dung and water, 
which forms a light crust, and prevents the wind from 
disturbing the surface of the beds. This is a necessary 
work, as, owing to the lightness of the soil, it would 
drift, when dry, about as freely as snow. The only cul- 
tivation given is to keep the beds clean from weeds until 
the time of flowering, in April. At this time the plants 
are carefully examined, and if, by accident, there should 
be a wrong variety in the bed, it is marked for removal. 
There dre no beds of mixed bulbs, of any class whatever, 
grown in Holland, excepting in rare instances, where 
specialists are growing from seed to procure new varie- 
ties. Every variety has its name, and is grown and 
stored in such a systematic manner that there is but 
little chance for a bulb to get out of place. In all cases, 
“‘mixtures,” as quoted in dealers’ catalogues, are made 
up of equal proportions of colors, from bulbs of second 
size, and of inferior quality. Of this more will be writ- 
ten in treating of selection. 

After the bulbs have flowered the flower-stalks are 
cut off, which throws the whole strength of the plant 
into the bulb; the flower spikes are usually thrown into 


HYACINTH. 143 


the ditches, because, should they be left on the land, 
they would cause the bulbs to rot. They cannot be 
used, even as a manure for trees, or any other plants, 
because, if they are not poisonous, they at least always 
contain a corrosive substance, and to such a degree that 
in the month of October, if they are worked among for 
a few hours, they will have a worse effect on the laborer 
than the Poison Ivy ; the skin becomes red and inflamed, 
and the pain is so intense that it prevents sleep. 

The manner of harvesting the bulbs in Holland is 
as follows: First, all the leaves are cut just under the 
surface of the beds, with a sharp shuffle-hoe, immediately 
after which the bulbs are taken up with the hands, the 
laborer sitting on the ground all the time. When taken 
up they are put in shallow trenches, close together, and 
covered with earth, where they remain from one to three 
weeks to ripen, after which they are brought into the 
store rooms and placed thinly to dry. They are then 
cleaned, the tops cut closely to the bulb, and the bulbs 
assorted according to quality and size. 

Propagation of the Hyacinth.—There are two 
artificial methods of propagating the Hyacinth in Hol- 
land. ‘The first is by means of cross-cuts made through 
the base of the bulbs, reaching half way up the bulb. 
These cuts are made as soon as the bulbs are taken from 
their beds, before they are put in the trenches for curing, 
the strongest and most healthy bulbs beg chosen, as 
they produce the largest number of offsets. After the 
bulbs are cut they are laid in the trenches to ripen, the 
same as the other bulbs. These cuts soon open wide, 
and send out young bulbs thickly along the scales before 
autumn. They are planted in this state in beds by 
themselves, and the next year, after having been dried 
on the shelves, they are separated and trimmed. The 
first year after cutting, the bulbs make very little, if any, 
foliage, as the old bulb has no longer any influence, and 


144 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


the young bulbs exhaust their energies in perfecting their 
own increase. After the first season’s growth in the 
bed, they are taken up and handled in precisely the same 
manner as the old bulbs. It requires from three to five 
years’ growth to make bulbs of merchantable size, which 
means, for the best bulbs, as large as they can be grown, 
without natural division, after which they produce but 
inferior spikes of bloom. | 

The other method of propagation is by hollowing 
out the base of the bulb, leaving a narrow rim, and 
scooping out the center about one-fourth of its depth. 
This work is performed in August, in clear, dry weather, 
as in wet weather the bulbs will be very liable to rot. 
It is very desirable, as in propagating by cross-cuts, that 
the bulbs chosen for this purpose should be very strong 
and healthy. The hollowed-out part of the bulb ought 
not to be touched after the cutting, either by the finger 
or anything else, and the most common and best way is 
to strew a dry board with fine, dry sand, lay the bulbs 
upon it, and to turn the hollowed-out part to the sun. 
After lying some time, the heart, which extends as far 
as the point of the bulb, becomes detached by the heat 
of the sun, and is carefully removed with a smooth stick, 
being careful not to bruise the scales of the bulb. The 
bulbs are then kept in a dry place exposed to the sun, 
until it is time to plant out in autumn. In the mean- 
time small bulbs, in great quantities, will be formed all 
along the lines of the scales. When this kind of propa- 
gating proves successful, it is far more rapid than by 
cross-cuts, but the young bulbs are not as large, and 
they will require an additional growth of one or two 
years to make salable bulbs. 

Garden Culture of Hyacinths.—Hyacinths can 
be grown in the open air successfully, and with as little 
difficulty as any flowering bulbs. The only real enemy 
they have is frost. While classed with hardy bulbs, 


HYACINTH. 145 


they are not hardy, and their cultivation would be more 
general if this fact were so stated in the catalogues, upon 
which the amateur, in a great measure, depends for his 
information. The Hyacinth may live, but it will not 
thrive in the open border unless thoroughly protected. 
Many growers have become discouraged, from losses due 
to freezing, which they have, unwisely, attributed to 
some other cause; not knowing what the trouble was, 
they had no remedy; consequently they have abandoned, 
in a great measure, its cultivation as a border plant. A 
greater mistake is not common. ‘They need never fail, 
and their absence from the garden is a loss that cannot 
be supplied by any other flower. 

The catalogues are equally responsible for another 
mistake of equal magnitude, namely: that a special soil 
is necessary for the perfect development of the flower. | 
While the Hyacinth cannot be propagated profitably in 
other than a sandy soil, it can be grown, or flowered, in 
any soil. It is not the quality, but the condition of 
the soil, that is essential. And the only conditions nec- 
essary are to plant the bulbs sufficiently early in a 
deep and rich soil to allow them a chance to make 
a good root growth; then to protect thoroughly against 
frost. Whether the soil is clayey, loamy or sandy, 
the result will be the same. A minor consideration 
is to afford the bed good drainage, if in a situation 
where water has a tendency to stand at any time. If 
the soil is heavy the bulbs should not be covered more 
than from two to three inches; if light, from four to 
six inches. Be governed, as to depth of planting, by 
the lightness or heaviness of soil, and remember, the 
soil one has is the best one has; there is no choice, and 
need be none. As frost is the only obstacle to success, 
how can this be guarded against? Simply enough, as a 
rule, for usually where there is a garden there are trees, 
the newly fallen leaves of which are the best and the 

10 


146 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


most natural protection. Cover the bed to the depth of 
six inches, as well as a margin of two feet on either side 
_ of the bed, with leaves, which can be kept in place by 
pieces of board or branches of trees, and the work is 
complete. This covering should be gradually removed 
upon the approach of warm weather, as the plants will 
be above ground before the frost is out of unprotected 
places. The chmate on the coast, from Canada to Vir- 
ginia, is the worst possible for the Hyacinth, because of 
the alternate freezing and thawing so common in early 
spring. ‘To guard against this, a suitable mat should be 
in readiness to throw over the bed after the winter cov- 
ering has been removed. No further caltural instruc- 
tions are necessary for the Hyacinth in the open border, 
observing what we have said in regard to manures, as 
used in Holland. It is by no means essential to have 
the ground as rich to flower the bulb as it was to produce 
it, as the flower is already formed, and whether the soil 
be rich or poor, the same number of flowers will appear 
on the stem; but, of course, under favorable conditions, 
they will be larger and stronger than under the reverse. 

Selection of Varieties of Hyacinths.—Where 
required for use in large quantities, Hyacinths of good 
quality and striking colors may be had at very low rates. 
This is an important consideration, as many amateurs 
are deterred from making as good a display as they 
might wish, because of the expense, which is thought 
disproportionate to the effect produced. For many 
years we have grown the Hyacinth with varied degrees of 
success. We have planted bulbs that were sold at retail 
at two dollars each ; beside them we have had those grow- 
ing that only cost one dollar per dozen, and we must say 
that none but the professional bulb-grower would notice 
the difference. The contrast in prices is still greater 
now, as good bulbs can be bought at four dollars per 
hundred, retail. 


HYACINTH. 147 


Many persons make the growing of Hyacinths a 
hobby. This is very commendable, for it stimulates the 
production of new varieties, with a view toward improve- 
ment; and whenever a new variety is brought out, it is 
eagerly sought, at a high price, to the great encouragement 
of the producer, and to the convenience of the general 
consumer, for, as soon as the novelty is worn off, the price 
is reduced to that of the standard sorts. It is a mistake, 
in the selection of Hyacinths for the open border, to 
choose the largest bulbs, which are usually the highest 
priced ; it is much better to get what is known as second- 
sized bulbs, not simply because they are cheaper, but 
because they are better, as they will not break up into 
small bulbs, as the larger ones invariably do after the 
first year, each part producing a weak spike with but 
few bells, but the small bells will grow on for two or 
three years, giving a fine spike each year. We do not 
advise the use of mixed bulbs, but, rather, what are usu- 
ally termed ‘‘Bedding Hyacinths,” which simply means 
second or third sized bulbs of the standard varieties, such 
as have been in cultivation for the last hundred years, 
and within that period but little real improvement. has 
been made in Hyacinths, either as regards size, form or 
color, excepting so far as double forms may be consid- 
ered an improvement, notwithstanding there are annually 
brought out a score or more of ‘‘novelties.” These 
bulbs differ only from the first size, in not having been 
grown so long, by one or two years, which allows of their 
being sold materially cheaper. 

Growing Hyacinths in Pots.—For pot culture 
there is no plant that succeeds better, or gives more gen- 
eral satisfaction, than the Hyacinth; certainly there is 
none other more easily managed. For this purpose 
select solid, heavy bulbs, without regard to size; second- 
sized bulbs will generally prove quite as satisfactory as 
the larger ones. For a single bulb a five-inch pot is 


bao Pe a 


148 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


sufficiently large. Fill it with any good potting mold, 
a light, rich one being preferable. Remove a little soil 
from the central surface, and into this opening lightly 
press the bulb, so as not to have the soil hard beneath it, 
but pack the earth firmly around it, leaving about one- 
third of the bulb visible. If the bulb is pressed too 
firmly in the soil, when the roots begin to grow, instead 
of penetrating, they will lift the bulb out of its proper 
position. After potting set the pots in any sheltered 
position, where they will not get too much water, and 
cover with soil, or, what is better, coal ashes, to the 
depth of six or eight inches; over this throw leaves or 
coarse litter, to prevent freezing, so that they may be 
brought into the house as required. It is a common 
practice to put them in acellar or shed. This is nota © 
good plan, however, as the soil is apt to get too dry after 
the roots start, from the ill effects of which the plants 
never fully recover. For a succession of bloom, bring 
in as many as desired about December first, and every 
two weeks thereafter until February first. If the bulbs 
have been kept from the frost, as they should have been, 
they will have made considerable top growth, in which 
case bring them gradually to the light until they get 
their natural color, after which they will stand all the 
light and heat the living room will afford. It will aug- 
ment the beauty of the flowers and prolong their period 
of usefulness to grow them in a low temperature, 
although they thrive in any other, provided watering is 
proportionate. The best time for potting is as soon as 
possible after the bulbs arrive from Holland, when they 
have had a sufficient period of rest, and are ready for 
the first period of root growth. The quicker the pots 
are filled with roots, the sooner the bulbs will come into 
flower after they are brought into the house. Besides, 
without a healthy root-growth, there will never be a 
healthy flower spike; the flowers opening close down to 


HYACINTH, 149 


the bulb, instead of being raised on a long generous 
spike, being the result of insufficient root action. 

Blooming Hyacinths in Glasses.—For flower- 
ing in glasses, the largest and heaviest bulbs alone should 
be chosen, as, in a great measure, they derive their nour- 
ishment from their own substance, which is quite suffi- 
cient to develop their flowers, if all other conditions are 
fayorable. For this purpose, as in growing the bulbs 
in pots, a healthy root growth is of the first importance. 
To secure this it isan excellent plan, about November Ist, 
to place the bulbs in a box of wet sand, say two inches 
in depth. The bulbs should not be pressed into the 
sand more than half aninch. Put the box where it is 
cool and dark, and the roots will start in a few days; 
when they are half an inch in length, the bulbs may be 
put in the glasses where they are to grow. Place the 
glasses, after they are filled with water enough to just 
touch the bulb, in a dark closet until the roots touch 
the bottoms of the glasses, then bring to the light, but 
never where the glasses will receive the full rays of the 
sun, the effect of which is to heat the water to a fatal 
degree. A rather low temperature and free access of 
pure air are among the essential conditions of growth. 
The temperature should be free from fluctuations. The 
mantlepiece is an unfit place, while the window-sash, 
where the glasses get the full force of the sun by day, 
and the cold drafts of air at night, is the worst place 
possible, and the one where they are the most frequently 
met. ‘The nearer they can be kept in a temperature of 
say 50° F., the better will be the results. For flowering 
in glasses the single varieties are always to be preferred, 
as they come into flower more quickly and seem to thrive 
better under unnatural conditions. 

Varieties.— The varieties of the Hyacinth are 
extremely numerous, but it is a pleasure to say that the 
Dutch descriptions are remarkably accurate, and that 


150 - BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


variety synonyms are exceedingly rare. In making a 
choice for the garden, individual taste in color alone is 
to be considered; there is not so much difference in 


| 


\N 


\ \\\ bee’ ne x 
\Y M9 


DOUBLE HYACINTH. 


form or habit in most of the varicties as to make it an 
important point in selection. The single varieties are 
greatly to be preferred to the double; they have longer 


aes 


HYACINTH. Lt 


and better furnished spikes, and, as a rule, their colors 
are better defined. ‘Two exceptions to this rule may be 
made in favor of La Tour D’Auvergne, a double white, 
and Regina Victoria, a double red. The former is our 
first choice, whether in the garden or for pot culture; 
the latter is a good second. 

For general cultivation and for all purposes, the fol- 
lowing twenty-five sorts we consider the most desirable, 
being very distinct in their respective colors. We do not 
admire neutral tints in the Hyacinth, as they give the 
flower a dirty appearance. There are but few truly good 
yellows, either single or double; some of the colors are 
good, but the spikes are short and the bells scattered. 
Allin the following list possess the most positive and 
striking colors: 


SINGLE RED AND PINK HYACINTHS. 

Lord Macaulay.—Clear rose with carmine stripes, 
a good show variety. 

Madame Hodgson.—Pale pink, a large and well- 
formed spike and a sure bloomer. 

Robert Steiger.—A fine spike, bright red; one of 
the best for bedding, or decorative purposes. 

Von Schiller.—Clear salmon pink, with crimson 
stripes ; a fine pot plant for decorative purposes. 


SINGLE WHITE. 


Alba Superbissima.—A pure white, large and 
compact spike ; a fine bedding variety. 

La Grandesse.—Pure white, a long and hand- 
some spike; one of the best for exhibition purposes. 

Mont Blanc.—Pure white, a long and well-formed 
spike suitable for all methods of culture. 


SINGLE BLUE. 


Charles Dickens.—Light clear blue shaded with 
lilac; a long, well-formed spike and one of the best in 
cultivation, 


152 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PI.ANTS. 


Grand Lilas.—Porcelain blue; a very pleasing 
variety. 

Mimosa.—Dark purple; very distinct, contrasting 
- finely with the red and white sorts; a valuable bedder. 


SINGLE LILAC AND MAUVE. 
Haydn.—Lilac-mauve, very distinct; good spike 
and form. 
La Unique.—UDark violet ; a very fine spike. 
SINGLE YELLOW. 


Bird of Paradise.—Clear yellow, and long spike; 
one of the best of the yellows. 

Ida.—Beautiful primrose yellow, large bells on a 
compact spike; an excellent variety. 

La Citronniere.—Pale yellow; a splendid flower. 


DOUBLE RLD AND ROSE. 


Bouquet Tendre (Waterloo).—Deep red on a good 
spike, and early; an old and pleasing variety. 

Lord Wellington.—Pale rose, large bells and hand- 
some spike; a showy and handsome variety. 

Regina Victoria.—Fine clear dark-rosy pink; a 
long spike and bells somewhat loosely arranged, but very 
pleasing. 

DOUBLE WHITE. 

Anna Maria.—Light blush with purple center; a 
good spike and distinct. 

La Tour D’Auvergne.—A clear white with large 
bells well arranged on a long spike; one of the best. 

Prince of Waterloo.—Pure white, long and hand- 
some spike of well-arranged bells. 

DOUBLE BLUE. 

Blocksberg.—Porcelain with a white stripe, large 
bells and a good spike; a standard sort. 

Laurens Koster.—Fine dark blue, close handsome 
spike; one of the very best double sorts. 


HYACINTH. 153 


DOUBLE YELLOW. 

Jaune Supreme.—Pure citron yellow, very double; 
a fair spike. 

Ophir D’Or.—Deep yellow; an extra fine flower. 

Hyacinths for Pots.—The foregoing selection can- 
not be surpassed for pot culture excepting, perhaps, that 
some of the higher priced sorts may possibly give a little 
larger spike, but for general cultivation those named will 
give entire satisfaction. 

Hyacinths for Glasses.—The following twelve 
sorts we believe to be the best for glasses, but these can- 
not be depended upon for good spikes because of the un- 
natural condition in which they are grown and the lia- 
bility there is of their suffering from neglect: Madame 
Hodgson and Robert Steiger, single red; Alba Superbis- 
sima, single white; Grand Van Vanqueur and Mont 
Blane, single white ; Charles Dickens, single blue; Grand 
Tilas, single porcelain-blue; Mimosa, single dark blue ; 
Bird of Paradise, single yellow; La Tour D’ Auvergne, 
double white; Bouquet Tendre, double red; Laurens 
Koster, double blue. After Hyacinths have been grown, 
either in pots or glasses, the bulbs are of no further use, 
and should be thrown away. 

Roman Hyacinth.—This is a distinct species, 
Hyacinthus romanus, a native of Greece, largely culti- 
vated in the south of France, and far more extensively 
grown in this country for cut flowers than the well-known 
Dutch Hyacinth. It is readily forced, and the bulb, 
although much smaller than that of the ordinary Hya- 
cinth, produces several flower stalks. Of this species 
there is a blue and a pink variety, popularly known as 
Parisian Hyacinths. These are but little used, because of 
their colors, white being the only color in that form that 
the florists can use to advantage, and for house or con- 
servatory decoration their flowers do not contrast as 
favorably with the foliage as do those of the white. 


154 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


The Roman Hyacinth is specially adapted for forcing, 
and can be had from Christmas until spring, with very 
little effort. The common method of growing it for cut 


ROMAN HYACINTH. 


flowers is to put the bulbs, as soon as received from 
France, in flats or shallow boxes, say three mches apart, 
using the soil that is most convenient. Let the top of 


Fe a 


HYACINTH. 155 


the bulb be even with the surface of the soil; water 
thoroughly, then place the flats in a cold frame, or shed, 
away from frost. They should remain in this condition 
at least four weeks before they are brought in for forcing. 
Heat should be applied gradually, beginning at 50° and 
running up to 65° or 70° F. To get flowers for Christ- 
mas, a little higher temperature will be required than is 
best to employ for a general crop. For a succession, 
bring in a new batch every two weeks. 

The Roman Hyacinth can be most successfully grown 
in the window-garden, and is more desirable than the 
large-flowered varieties, because of its coming into bloom 
much earlier. For this purpose a four-inch pot can be 
used to advantage. Use any soil from the garden; put 
three bulbs in each pot, and treat in all other respects as 
the Dutch Hyacinth, only that the Roman can be started 
by the first of November, and in a favorable situation 
will flower by Christmas. They can just as well be 
brought on in shallow boxes if a greater number is re- 
quired. The only care necessary in the house is to pro- 
vide water when required, and to keep up as even a tem- 
perature as possible. A check from want of water, or 
because of too low a temperature will prevent a perfect 
development of flowers. After flowering, the florists 
throw the bulbs into the rubbish heap, which is the only 
thing to do, as after forcing they are not worth saving. 
If grown more carefully in flats or pots until the bulbs 
are matured, then planted in the open border, they will 
flower moderately well for a number of years. But the 
room, required is of more value than the cost of the bulbs. 

Dutch-Roman Hyacinth.—The Dutch growers 
are now competing with the French growers with the 
above named yariety, which is claimed to be superior. 
Those who haye given it a fair trial do not admit its 
superiority, and say that it is simply a selection of small 
bulbs of extra early Dutch Hyacinth. We think this is a 


156 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


mistake, and believe the ‘‘ Dutch-Romans” to be a distinct 
variety of Hyacinthus orientatis, known as albulus (small 
white) quite distinct from the Roman. Our best growers 
~ speak well of this for a second crop, both as regards qual- 
ity of flower, and the price for which it can be obtained. 
It requires to be treated in the same manner as is recom- 
mended for the Roman Hyacinth. 

The Persian Hyacinth.—This is botanically 
known as Hyacinthus amethystinus, and is one of the 
most beautiful of the species, because of its exquisitely- 
colored flowers, varying from white to lake. It is by no 
means showy, neither will it compare for general useful- 
ness with any of the other species. Its flowers are small, 
on a delicate stem ; its grace and color is what commends 
it. It is a native of Spain, Italy and Russia. It closely 
resembles the Scilla, and has been included in that genus 
as S. patula. ‘Treat the same as the Dutch Hyacinth. 

The Varieties and Synonyms of Hyacinths 
are given in the following table: 

Californian Hyacinth.—See Brodiza. Page 46. 

Cape Hyacinth.—See Scilla brachyphilla. 

Dutch Hyacinth.—See Page 138. 

Dutch-Roman Hyacinth.—See Page 155. 

Fair Haired Hyacinth.—See Muscari comosum. 

Grape Hyacinth.—See Muscari botryoides. 

Persian Hyacinth.—See above. 

Roman Hyacinth.—See Page 153. 

Star Hyacinth.—See Scilla ameena. 

Starch Hyacinth.—See Muscari racemosum. 

Tassel Hyacinth.—See Muscari comosum. 

White Cape Hyacinth.—See Galtonia candicans, 
Page 97. 

Wild American Hyacinth.—See Camassia escu- 
lenta, and C. Fraseri (Page 51). : 

Wild Hyacinth.—See Scilla nutans. 

Winter Hyacinth.—See Scilla autumnalis. 


HYDROT HZ NIA—HYMENOCALLIS. 157 


The Hyacinth is fabled to have sprung forth from the 
blood of the fair-haired Hyacinthus, when accidentally 
killed by the quoit of Apollo. Others derive it from 
Cynthus, one of the names of the god himself, associated 
with violets—a name, too, that might be taken to be ex- 
pressive of the surpassing beauty and delightful fragrance 
of the Hyacinth. 

HYDROTANTIA. 


A synonym of Tigridia. 
HYMENOCALLIS. 


Many of the species that comprise this family were 
formerly included in Choretis, Ismene and Pancratium. 
Hi. rotata and H. speciosa are native bulbs, common from 
North Carolina to Florida, and also in the West Indies. 
They are so closely allied to Pancratium as not to be dis- 
tinguished by the casual observer. They are all 
swamp plants, and require to be grown in the green- 
house. Large numbers are sold under the name of 
Cuban Lilies. ‘The flowers, in all the species, are white 
or yellow, and of the same general character. 

The Mexican Lily (4. Choretis) is a native of Texas 
and Mexico. It grows freely in a light sandy soil in the 
open border, or may be grown in pots in the greenhouse. 
The flowers are very beautiful, pure white, with a green 
eye and a greenish stripe. The bulbs require rest from 
Noyember until May, during which time they should be 
kept dry and in a frost proof room. 

The Peruvian Daffodil (Ismene) is remarkably hand- 
some, and should be grown as generally as the Gladiolus, 
or other summer-flowering bulbs. It thrives in the 
poorest sandy soil, if dry; the only condition it does 
not like is too much moisture. The bulbs can be taken 
up in the autumn, and stored during winter in the same 
manner as the Gladiolus. One of the two cultivated 
species is H. Amancaes, the sacred flower of the Peru- 


158 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


vians, In honor of which they hold every year a kind of 
religious ceremony, in which holy images are strangely 


‘mixed up with scenes of dancing and feasting. On the 


24th of June the inhabitants of Lima sally forth, on 
horseback, in carriages and on foot, and, passing through 
the Almeda, or common promenade, they proceed to 
some hills about two miles from the city, which, though 
usually bare of vegetation, are then yellow with the flow- 
ers of the Amancaes. On the sandy or volcanic soil of 
these hills innumerable booths are erected ; and here the 
visitors take refreshment, after walking to and fro, and 
decorating themselves and their horses with the flowers 
of the Amancaes. ‘The amusements of the day consist 
principally of music and dancing, and these are strangely 
mixed up with religious ceremonies. In the evening 
the crowds return to the city, so laden with flowers as to 
look, in the light of the setting sun, like a stream of 
molten gold. The other Peruvian Daffcdil is H. cala- 
thinum, a very handsome species from Buenos Ayres, 
which has large, pure white, delightfully fragrant flow- 
ers. Its culture is the same as the foregoing, but it is a 
more vigorous plant, and will grow in other than sand, 
which the first named species will not. It makes a 
charming pot plant. | 

HY POXIS. 

Star Grass. 

A small genus of tuberous-rooted plants widely dis- 
seminated, and differing considerably in character. The 
only species worthy of cultivation is H. erecta, our com- 
mon Star-grass, which is a beautiful little plant indige- 
nous from the Atlantic to the Great Plains, and south- 
ward. Its flowers are bright yellow with brownish stripe 
on the outside of the petals, and though they are small, 
yet from their great abundance and the length of time 
they continue, they are worthy a place in every garden. 


IMANTOPHYLLUM—INDIAN SHOT. 159 


They are among our earliest wild flowers, and none are 
more beautiful. In the fields the flower stems are from 
four inches to a foot in hight. Under cultivation the 
flowers are larger and the stems or scapes grow higher. 
They increase rapidly by offsets. 


IMANTOPHYLLUM. 


No little confusion has existed in the nomenclature 
of plants of this genus. The genus has been considered 
a synonym of Clivia, both names having been given to the 
Same species. Between J. miniatum and C. nobilis, 
which have been considered the same species, there is a 
marked difference in the flowers; those of the former 
are erect and much larger than those of the latter, 
which are drooping and of a darker color. In general 
appearance they closely resemble each other, and the 
same treatment is required for both. See Clivia, Page 58. 

I. cyrtanthiflorum, (Cyrtanthus-flowered).—Flow- 
ers clear, rich salmon, or light flame-colored. This isa 
supposed hybrid between the Clivia nobilis and J. 
miniatum. 

I. miniatum.—A native of Natal, having fine deep 
orange flowers, lower parts deep buff. J. m. splendens 
is a variety with brighter and deeper colored flowers. 
There are numerous hybrids said to be very attractive, 
which are but little cultivated. 


INDIAN SHOT. 
See Canna. Page 52. 
INDIAN TURNIP. 
See Arisema. Page 31. 
IRIS. 


Fleur de Lis or Flower de Luce. 
In the long list of flowering plants there does not 
appear a genus so widely distributed, so generally known, 


160 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


so variable in character, and at the same time so readily 
distinguished as the Iris, the type of the natural order 
Iridacee. The species abound in various parts of the 
globe, growing under the greatest variety of conditions, 
mostly in damp or marshy situations ; but some even in 
dry and gravelly soils. In the various species may be 
found some of our most charming and desirable herba- 
ceous plants, suited to all soils and conditions, either in 
sun or shade. Some of the species have tuberous roots, 
others creeping root-stalks or rhizomes; while others, 
including, perhaps, the most beautiful species of all, 
haye fibrous roots. The flowers of each and all, widely 
as the plants may differ in form or habit, have a form 
and beauty peculiarly their own. They have been very 
appropriately considered the connecting link between 
the Lilies and the Orchids. 

Bulbous Iris.—This is the first of the three large 
and distinct sections into which the /ris genus has been 
divided. These are Bulbous, Tuberous and Japanese. 

I. Vulgare (Xiphium, or Spanish).—This is one 
of the most common species known to the trade, the 
bulbs being annually sent out with the Dutch bulbs 
in autumn. ‘The flowers are very beautiful, and of va- 
rious colors, quite fragrant, appearmg in June. ‘These 
bulbs are classed perfectly hardy, but they will not endure 
much frost; perhaps it is because they exhaust them- 
selves in reproduction, as they increase rapidly by off- 
sets. When the offsets are not required for propagation, 
the foreign gardeners push them off as soon as they 
appear, in order that the bulbs may not be weakened. 
The leaves remain green the entire winter, and for their 
protection the plants should be slightly covered with 
leaves in Autumn, in a changeable climate. Most of 
the bulbs of this species, sold as varieties, are seedlings, 
hybrids between this species and J. ziphiovdes. i 

I. xiphioides (J. anglica, English).—The bulbs 
of this species somewhat resemble the foregoing, but are 


Oi Da 


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et is: Sat Fs PGMs. Sate 


ai 
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‘ 


IRIS. 161 


larger and more nearly round. The name is a misnomer, 
as the plant is a native of the Pyrenees, but has been 
common in English gardens since 1571. The flowers are 
exceedingly showy, produced on strong, erect stems about 
two feet high, from one to three on a stem. ‘The flowers 
are of various colors, blue, white, lavender, crimson and 
yellow. Like the foregoing, the bulbs should be planted in 
autumn, as quickly as they can be procured. ‘They are 
not so cheap as the Spanish Iris, because they do not 
increase as rapidly. 

I. persica (Persian).—This is one of the earliest 
and the most beautiful of the bulbous species. It comes 
into flower before the Crocus disappears and is equally as 
hardy. It isa native of Persia, whence it was introduced 
into England by the Queen of Charles 1. Bulbs of this 
species may be treated in all respects as the Hyacinth. 
They will flower equally well in pots, or in water in 
glasses ; in this manner they may be made to flower all 
through the winter. The species are dwarf-growing; 
flowers small, of various shades of blue. 

I. pavonia (Peacock).—Botanically this species 
may now be found under Morea. We prefer placing 
it where itis popularly known. ‘This is one of the small- 
est of the species, but very beautiful; flowers pure white 
blotched with blue. The bulbs are not hardy, but can 
be grown in the cool greenhouse or in a cold frame. 

I. tuberosa (Snake’s Head).—As its name im- 
plies, this variety is tuberous rather than bulbous, but 
more nearly like the latter than the tuberous-rooted spe- 
cies. The flowers are beautiful and curious, green and 
velvety black; they are very early, and should have the 
protection of a frame, as the frost would kill the flowers, 
if it did not injure the plant. 

I. susiana (Chalcedonian).—This is one- of the 
most magnificent of the species, and has, like the preced- 
ing, tuberous rather than bulbous roots. It is a native 

11 


a ee hie 


) 


162 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


of Turkey, and has long been popularly known as the 
Turkish Flower-de-Luce. It is one of the oldest plants 
of the English gardens, and was described by Gerard in 


1629 as follows -—‘‘The greate Turkie Flower-de-Luce 


hath divers heads of long and broad fresh greene leaves, 
yet not so broad as many of those that follow, one folded 
within another at the bottome, as all other of the Flower- 
de-Luces are; from the middle of some of these heads 
(for every head of leaves beareth not a flower) riseth up a 
round, stiffe stalke, two foote high, at the top wherof 
standeth one flower (for I never observed it to beare two), 
the largest almost, but rarest of all the rest, consisting of 
nine leaves, like the others that follow, but of the colour 
almost of a snake’s skinne, it is so diversely spotted ; for 
the three lower falling leaves are very large, of a deepe, 
or dark purple colour, almost blacke, full of grayish 
spots, strakes and lines through the whole leaves, with a 
black thrume or freeze in the middle of each of them; 
the three arched leaves that cover them are of the same 
dark purple colour, yet a little paler at the sides; the 
three upper leaves are very large, also, and of the same 
colour with the lower leaves, but a little more lively and 
fresh, being speckled and straked with whiter spots and 
lines ; which leaves being laid in water will color the 
water a violet colour; but if a little alume be put therin, 
and then wrung or pressed and the juice of these leaves 
dryed in the shadow, will give a colour almost as deep 
as Indigo, and may serve as shadows in limming excel- 
lent well; the flower hath no scent that can be perceived, 
but is only commendable for the beauty and variety 
therof ; it seldome beareth seedes in these cold countries, 
but when it doth it is contained in greate heads, being 


‘brownish and round, but not so flat as the other sorts; 


the roots are more browne on the outside, and growing 
tuberous thicke, as all others that are kept in gardens.” 

While this is one of the most magnificent species of 
the Iris, it is a little difficult to manage in our gardens; 


IRIS. 163 


not alone because of its not being hardy, but if left in 
the ground after its leaves have died down in the spring, 
jt is lhable to make an autumn growth, which is fatal to 
its flowering the following spring. It should be grown 
either in a frame or in a cool greenhouse. It is remark- 
ably beautiful in the house, as a pot plant. The only 
care necessary is to let it grow, when it starts, and give 
it perfect rest after flowering. | 
Tuberous-Rooted Iris.—The most prominent in 
this class is J. germanica, or German Iris, and it is one 


x AW 


GERMAN IRIS, PLANT AND FLOWER. 


of the most valuable of the early or medium early flower- 
ing sorts for the herbaceous border. The flowers are 
large and showy, and produced so freely that the plants, 
in May, are a mass of blue, bright yellow, purple of all 
shades, white, and all the shades of color that the vari- 
ous combinations will produce. When care and system 
have been employed in planting, a mass of German Iris 
is a gorgeous sight. This species is perfectly hardy, but 
will be greatly “benefited by a light mulching of leaves 


164 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


or coarse litter in autumn. It is not at all particular as 
to soil, preferring a rather heavy and moist one, but will 
give great satisfaction in any soil or situation. The 
tubers may be planted, either in spring or early autumn, 
the latter being preferable, as they start very early in 
the spring. Plant about a foot apart each way, and they 
will soon completely cover the ground. Propagation is 
by division, or from seed. The rapidity with which plants 
can be produced from seed, and the great variation of 
color in the seedlings, none of which are poor, has been 
the means of increasing this class to an almost unlimited 
extent. A choice of these the buyer must make for 
himself, color or combination being the principal object, 
there being a marked uniformity in the size of the plants. 

I. cristata (Crested).—This is a native American 
species of very dwarf habit, abundant in the mountain 
regions of Virginia, Kentucky and southward. The 
flowers are a delicate lilac, with yellow throat, and finely 
crested, appearing early in May. Asa border plant it 
has no superior; it is perfectly hardy and wonderfully 
floriferous. It is rapidly increased by division, and will 
thrive anywhere. ‘There are more than fifty other spe- 
cies of this tuberous-rooted class. 

Japanese Iris (ris levigata, I. Kempfert).—This 
forms a distinct type, and is the most yaluable of 
the genus for garden decoration. The plants are per- 
fectly hardy, and strong growers. ‘The flower stalks, if 
planted in good soil, will grow fully four feet high, with 
abundance of bloom. The flowers are proportionately 
large ; they open perfectly flat, are from six to ten inches 
in diameter, some single, some double, in various shades 
of color; pure white, dark purple, maroon, violet and 
plum, with very distinct pencilings and markings; 
some are strangely and beautifully marbled. To have 
these in perfection the soil should be moist, deep and 
rich. 'They are gross feeders, but pay for their keeping. 


IRIS. 165 


men ' 
We) i 


\ 


= maT 
at 
Fil i 


TYPES OF THE JAPANESE IRIS. 


166 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


While they succeed finely in broad sunlight, the warm 
sun of June, when they are in flower, quickly destroys 


_ the delicate flowers. ‘To guard against this, they should - 


be slightly protected on the south and west. If they 
can be planted in moist ground, near the edge of a 
stream, perfection will be reached. If planted in good 


soil, they should be divided as often as once in three: 


years, as they do not bloom as well when the roots be- 
come massed, possibly because they cannot get suffi- 
cient nourishment when in large clumps. A _ portion 
only, should be divided each year, as it takes one year 
to make strong crowns for the next year’s flowers. ‘This 
species is also grown readily from seed, which should be 
sown in early spring, in drills, as we sow peas; trans- 
plant the following spring into rows three feet apart, 
the plants one foot apart in the rows. With good culti- 
vation, nearly every plant will flower the second year. 
A large mass of these seedlings, no two of which will be 
precisely alike, but all good, has no superior in the floral 
world. After the first flowers appear, such as are the 
least desirable can be thrown out, giving the remainder 
a better chance to grow, which they will do so rapidly 
as to form a perfect mass in two years thereafter. 


ISMENE. 


See Peruvian Daffodil (Hymenocallis Amancaes), 
Page 157. 
IXIA, 


This interesting genus of Cape bulbs now includes 
about thirty species, and very many garden varieties, the 
result of cross-fertilization, a work that, in this case, has 
been unusually successful, as the size of the flowers has 
been materially increased without loss of vigor in the 
plant, or in the wonderful colors and markings of the 
flowers. Since the introduction of this genus, some 
twelve others have been formed out of it; in doing this 


=e 


TXTA. 167 


some very fine distinctions were made by the specialist. 
The species are all of great beauty, producing flowers of 
many colors,—pink, rose, crimson, orange, yellow, 
cream-color, white and variegated. In many varieties 
these colors are strangely blended, but always clear, and 
the markings entirely distinct. They make splendid 
pot plants for the conservatory or greenhouse ; in fact, 
there are but few plants more showy. They should be 
potted, say twelve in a six inch pot, in rich, light soil, 
in October, and set aside until they commence to grow, 
when they should be brought into full ight, in a moder- 
ately warm greenhouse. ‘They will come into flower in 
midwinter, and remain objects of great beauty for some 
weeks. After flowering, and the bulbs have perfected 
their growth, they should be dried off, and kept dry and 
dark until the first of October, when they should be 
repotted. ‘The offsets, which are produced freely, should 
be thrown away, as they do not flower until the second 
year, and the bulbs are so cheap that it does not pay to 
grow them. ‘These bulbs can also be grown in a cold 
frame, but they must be insured against both frost and 
excessive moisture. If grown in a frame, the bulbs 
should be planted two inches apart and three inches 
deep. Few of the species are in cultivation, the garden 
varieties having superseded them. The following, how- 
ever, are well worth growing : 

I. aulica.—Tall, pink, eighteen inches, or two feet 
high, flowering in April and May. 

I. conica.—An orange colored species, about a foot 
high, flowering in April and May. 

I. crispa.—A curied leaved blue sort, flowering in 
April and May. 

I. erecta.—White, about one and one-half feet 
high, flowering in May and June. ‘There is also a flesh- 
colored (incarnata), and yellow (lutea) variety. 

I. incarnata.—Rich flesh-colored, flowering in 
June and July, nine inches high. 


ae 


168 BULBS AND TUBEROUS ROOTED PLANTS. 


I. leucantha.—Fine white, May flowering, eight- 
een inches high. 
I. linearis.—Linear-shaped leaves, flowers white, 


flowering in April and May. 


I. maculata.—A white and brown spotted species, 
about a foot high, flowering in May and June. 

I. monadelpha.—This blue Ixia has the flowers 
gathered together in bundles, and is dwarf and beautiful. 

I. ochroleuca.—A cream-colored species. 

I. patens.—This is a spreading-flowered pink spe- 
cies, blooming in April, about one foot high. 

I. Scillaris.—A various colored squill-like flower, 
and one of the very earliest, flowering in January and 
February. } 

IXIOLIRION. 


A small genus of very pretty little plants, natives of 
Syria, producing, in early spring, delicate tufts of pale 
blue flowers. ‘They are rarely seen in cultivation, their 
place being taken by more showy plants. They grow 
as freely as the Crocus, and are increased by offsets. 


JACK IN THE PULPIT. 
See Arisema triphyllum, Page 31. 
JACOBEAN LILY. 
See Sprekelia, Page 22. 
JONQUIL. 
See Narcissus Jongquilla. 
LACHENALIA. 
Cape Cowslips. 

A rather large genus of rather pretty Cape bulbs of 
easy culture, preferring a light sandy soil and the cool 
greenhouse. The plants are small, flower-scapes erect, 


bearing numercus pendulous flowers, yellow and green, 
or scarlet and green; more curious than beautiful. The 


Mit hla ph ak Se Pe 


YS Fe eee ee ee 


LAPEYROUSIA—LEUCOCORYNE. 169 


foliage of some of the species is prettily variegated. 

They are readily increased by offsets. Like all Cape 

bulbs, they require active growth, or absolute rest. Being 

the first bulbs to flower in the winter is an inducement 

to their cultivation. The best of the species are: _ 

. anguinea.—White, with variegated foliage. 

. luteola.— Yellow. 

. pendula.—Scarlet and green. 

. tricolor.—Red, green and yellow; very pretty. ~ 
. uniflora.—Green. 


LAPEYROUSIA. 


Peyrousia or Oveida. 


eae ee 


A small genus of Cape bulbs, flowers white, blue, 
violet or pink. Closely resembling the Ixias, Page 166 ; 
the plants require the same general treatment. When 
plants are grown for their real beauty, these will become 
generally cultivated. 


LEUCOCORYNE. 


A genus of small, low-growing Liliaceous plants, 
with large flowers, from South America; blooming in 
early autumn if treated in the same manner as the Glad- 
iolus; they are also beautiful pot plants for the conserva- 
tory. If planted closely together in the border, their 
white and lilac flowers make a beautiful display. 


LEUCOIUM. 
The Snowflake, or Hrinosma. 


This genus of handsome spring and summer flower- 
ing bulbs was formerly included with Acis and Erinos- 
ma, but was separated by Dean Herbert, the acknowl- 
edged authority on bulbs and tuberous-rooted plants. 
The genus now includes the following species: 

_ L. vernum (Spring Snowflake, or St. Agnes’ 
flower).—A hardy bulb, growing from twelve to eighteen 


esse Pa To TL oan a ee 


Oi a an aie is a li a Tae Sere 


>" =. a an To @ 
x se - cao ~ 
= —a. . r, a 
z a 
7 


170 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


inches high, producing very elegant and delightfully fra- 
grant flowers, pure white, with a green spot on each 
petal near the point. The flowers resemble the Snow- 
drop, but are much larger, and appear about a month 
later. It is one of the most desirable of early flowering 
bulbs, and is suitable for rock-work or borders. The 
plants delight in a sheltered, partially shaded situation, 
and a light, well drained soil. This species is mdigenous 
to Central Europe, abounding in woods and shaded sit- 
uations. It was introduced in 1596, and was dedicated 
to St. Agnes. In Parkinson’s Herbal it is described as 
the Great Early Bulbous Violet. It is rapidly propa- 
gated by offsets. See Engraving, Page 96. 

L. zstivum (The Summer Snowflake).—A very 
pretty drcoping flower, with bright green spots on its 
white petals; but it is much less ornamental than the 
spring Snowflake. The leaves of this species are of a 
bright yellowish green ; a rather uncommon condition, as 
the leaves of most bulbs have a bluish tinge, except when 
they are beginning to decay. It is a native of Europe, 
flowers in June, and is propagated by offsets. Cultiva- 
tion is the same as for the foregoing species. 


LIBERTIA. 


A beautiful genus of Iridaceous plants, natives of 
Australia, Tasmania, New Zealand and China. But 
few of the species are what might be termed half-hardy. 
They are charming plants when they can be grown in 
the border, but will not endure much frost. They are — 
not adapted to greenhouse culture. 

L. formosa.—A beautiful plant, either for sum- 
mer or winter, owing to the color of its foliage, which is 
a dark shining green, and it produces spikes of flowers 
of snowy whiteness, with a delicacy of some of the finer 
Orchids. It is neat, dwarf and compact, and has flow- 
ers much larger than those of the other species. — 


LILYs P71 


L. ixioides.—A handsome New Zealand evergreen 
species, with narrow grassy foliage and small white flow- 
ers. The plants require a warm border of light soil; 
they will also thrive in the rockery, and are rapidly 
propagated by seeds, or careful division in spring. 


LILY. 
Tnlium. 


We give to the lily a large space, because it is first 
in importance in the bulb garden, in the history of flow- 
ering plants, and in the hearts of all true lovers of the 
beautiful in floral form and color. It is, moreover, the 
best representative of the natural order to which it 
belongs, which includes not only the most remarkable 
hardy herbaceous plants, but also greenhouse plants and 
important vegetables. The order Liliacee contains 
more than one hundred and eighty genera, and nearly 
twenty-five hundred species, the best known of which, 
besides the Lily, are the Hyacinth, Tulip, Agapanthus, 
Frittilaria, Scilla and the Onion. The Lily derives its 
name from the Celtic word, J, signifying whiteness; the 
Lily having long been considered an emblem of white- 
ness and purity. 

The genus Lilivm embraces about fifty distinct spe- 
cies, most of which belong to the northern hemisphere, 
and, with the exception of the few found in the moun- 
tains of sub-tropical Asia, all the species belong to 
the temperate regions. North America furnishes a 
large number of ornamental and useful species, all of 
which are highly honored in foreign lands. Japan 
has furnished, by far, the largest number of beau- 
tiful species under cultivation, as ZL. auratum, L. 
speciosum (erroneously known as L. lancifolium), L. 
Leichtlinu, L. Brownii, L. tigrinum, and L. elegans 
(Thunbergianum), with its synonyms. The Lilium 
candidum, the chaste beauty and grace of which is not 


192 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


equalled by that of any other flower, comes from the 
Levant. Asia furnishes the L. chalcedonicum and the 
L. monadelphum, the latter varying in some respects 


shghtly, and sold under several specific names ; Siberia 


furnishes the lovely little Z. tenutfolium, which is 
there used as an article of food; most of the other spe- 
cies are scattered over Europe. ‘Thus, it will be seen, 
the species have a wide geographical range. With the 
exception of those found in Japan and California, within 
certain limits the species bear a close resemblance in 
their generic characters. In Japan nearly every form 
and color the genus affords is to be found, with some 
peculiarities exclusively her own; characters that go to 
make up flowers superior in point of true beauty and 
loveliness to any of the species native elsewhere, always 
excepting LZ. candidum, which has no equal. 

In each of the species there is a marked variation in 
the color and shape of the flowers, in the height and gen- 
eral habit of the plant; though not enough to be termed 
specific, yet sufficient to establish a variety entitled to a 
distinctive name. By systematic selection the grower 
has been enabled to multiply varieties to an almost un- 
limited extent. One dealer in Holland has listed in his 
catalogue fifty varieties of Thunbergianum, nearly as 
many of Umbellatum, thirty-five varieties of Speciosum 
(Lancifolium), twelve of Tigrinum, eight of Candidum, 
and so on through the list. In either case from one to 
six varieties would fairly represent the species and avoid 
great confusion in nomenclature. The multiplication of 
varieties of the Lily has caused the beginner sad annoy- 
ance; his unpracticed eye fails to discern the fine shades 
and markings, that seem so important to the enthusi- 
astic grower, and he naturally concludes that he has but 
one variety under several names. In a measure, he is 
correct, as 1s any one that buys any number of scarlet 
Pelargoniums, or Verbenas, to which the grower has given 


LILY. 73 


as many distinctive names, when none other could possi- 
bly see the points of difference. The Lily is one of the 
few plants that we think has never been improved by ~ 
hybridization, or cross-fertilization. Efforts without 
number have been made in this direction, many of 
which we have watched with the greatest interest and 
with the closest attention, yet we cannot note a single 
instance where there has been the slightest improvement 
in the flower, in any respect. On the contrary, we have 
usually noticed a decrease in the vigor of the plant, and 
the quality of the flower. It seems to us that every step 
in this direction has been a step backward ; that nature 
has exhausted her resources in the perfection of the 
species, and regards as an interference all efforts of man 
to improve her work. ‘There are now under cultivation 
many seedlings from the species that, in some points of 
marking, are to be preferred to the parent; this we con- 
sider the result of their natural tendency to variation, 
rather than the result of any systematic effort for im- 
provement. High cultivation, which includes careful 
protection against cold, heat, drouth and water, all of 
which points will be duly considered, is the great secret 
of improvement ; a proper amount of attention in this 
direction will increase the vigor of the plants, the size, 
number and general character of the flowers. 

It does not seem necessary to improve, or, rather, 
to attempt an improvement on that which is already 
perfect, as the Lily is, wherever found in its native 
habitat. Nature has endowed the Lily with every ele- 
ment of grace and beauty, not only in outline, but in 
color, or the happy blending of colors, in forms most 
varied and beautiful, in fragrance delightful; in short, 
in all the characters essential to real beauty. Certainly, 
the ease with which many varieties produced their 
rapid increase, has placed them in the list of common 
plants, as though a plant must be difficult to manage, or 


174 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


that any given color loses its beauty in proportion to the 
increase of its quantity. As an example, we do not 
think there is a more beautiful form in the garden than 
the Tigrinum, when properly grown; neither do we 


think there is a color more showy or pleasing than that - 


of its flowers, and, if rare, none would be more eagerly 
sought. Yet this plant is usually regarded as a weed. 
The limit of perfection with the Lily, as with many other 
plants, is to give it all the attention necessary, both in 
place and cultivation, to enable it to reach that perfec- 
tion which marks its growth, unaided, in its own habitat. 
Any change of color, or form, from the original, disturbs 
that harmony of arrangement necessary to the highest 
development of beauty. 

Cultivation of the Lily.—Many amateurs and 
professional gardeners experience considerable difficulty 
in cultivating the more valuable varieties, which include 
many of those of recent introduction, and, notwithstand- 
ing that seemingly every precaution is taken to protect 
and secure them from injury during the winter season, 
it is found that very many perish ; and others, though 


preserved. alive, are maintained in such a sickly condi- 


tion that they never yield a perfect flower. It is but 
natural to suppose that for these injurious effects there 
must be an exciting, vital cause. This we have long 
and patiently sought for, and will explicitly give the 
results of our investigation as briefly as possible; and 


having shown the cause of failure, the remedy will be 


obvious. 

Lilies are not Hardy.—The principal cause of 
failure in cultivating Lilies lies in over-estimating their 
hardiness, their power to endure the rigors of the winter. 
It is the general opinion of those authorized to speak for 
the Lily, that, with but few exceptions, the species are 
perfectly hardy in a temperate climate. This opinion, 
which is supposed to be correct, finds its way into the 


LILY. {73 


seedsmen’s catalogues, prominent in the cultural instruc- 
tions, and the trustful beginner, not taking the proper 
precautions, loses his bulbs. So well established has this 
opinion become, that failure wholly due to frost is 
attributed to some unknown cause. ‘This opinion is 
founded on the fact that the species denominated hardy 
are natives of either cold, or temperate climates. A more 
erroneous opinion, or one fraught with more danger to 
the plant, could not well be entertained. The species 
that are truly hardy in New York, other than those 
indigenous to the soil, are remarkably few ; indeed, they 
are the exception rather than the rule. While it is true 
that some of the species are found in the coldest parts 
of the habitable globe, growing most luxuriantly, it is 
equally true that those same species, grown in temperate 
climates, are not hardy to a degree which renders it safe _ 
to plant them in our borders without protection. 

_ It is but proper to remark, at this time, that there 
is no climate so severe on every class of bulbs, such 
as are usually considered hardy, and left in the open 
border during winter, as that of the Middle Atlantic 
States. This is particularly applicable to the Atlantic 
coast, from Massachusetts to Virginia, where the ther- 
mometer often indicates forty degrees of frost when 
there is not a particle of snow on the ground for the pro- 
tection of vegetation. In these localities the frost pene- 
trates the earth to a great depth, and is soon thawed 
out. These constant changes from freezing to thawing 
cause the earth to contract and expand to such a degree 
as to frequently tear the bulbs in pieces. We have 
known whole fields destroyed in this manner. This 
shows the mechanical effect of freezing. Now let us be 
more specific. Siberia affords us a striking illustration 
of climatic influences on growth and preservation of 
bulbs. There the beautiful little Tenuifolium is indige- 
nous, and there it is largely employed as an article of 


176 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


food. In its native habitat it is perfectly hardy ; at least, 
it is never injured by the excessive cold. Here it is 
not hardy, and must be protected against frost in order 
to secure blooms. Why? Simply because, in its Sibe- 
rian home, the first indication of winter is a snowstorm 
that covers the ground so deeply that frost rarely, if 
ever, enters the ground atall. In our temperate clime 
the earth is frozen to a depth entirely unknown there, 
notwithstanding their climate is much the colder. 

The same is true in regard to the Martagon, the 
bulbs of which are largely used by the Cossacks as a 
vegetable; with them it is perfectly hardy; with us, in - 
a much milder climate, it will rarely survive but a single 
season, unless protected, but with that precaution, it 
srows with much more vigor here than in its native 
home. In England all the Turks’ Cap Lilies grow to a 
size unknown where they are indigenous. ‘This is be- 
cause, in England, the frost never reaches them, and the 
other conditions of growth are more favorable. 

The White Turks’ Cap Lily, Lilium Martagon 
album, mm the northern part of New York, in the North- 
ern States, and in Lower Canada, thrives with all the 
vigor of a native plant. We have known this bulb, in 
one locality, to increase so fast that it crowded out other 
bulbs in the garden, and was regarded as a native plant. 
Near the ocean it is rarely seen, in fact, cannot be grown, 
excepting it be protected from frost, either by a frame, 
or by mulching. Away from the Atlantic coast, and in 
Germany, its native home, the snow affords ample 
protection. 

In many sections of our country, where the ground 
is usually covered with snow during winter, Lilies of all 
kinds grow to the greatest perfection. We have seen 
finer bulbs of the Auratum, Brownii, Chalcedonicum, 
Martagon and other species grown in Vermont, where 
they were protected by snow, than we have ever seen 
grown in any other country. Here the Auratum is 


AYA Wad 


always healthy, and increases rapidly, which it does not 
do in less favored situations. There are many other 
plants protected by snow in the same, or in a siumilar, 
manner. We notice on the Alps, at an elevation that 
permits of only four months of spring, summer and 
autumn, that the Primula auricula grows in the greatest 
luxuriance and profusion. There the frost never reaches 
it, as it is constantly and completely protected with 
snow through eight months of winter. In the valleys 
below, where there is no snow and but little frost, the 
same plant will not live through the winter without arti- 
‘ficial protection. It is not so much the cold that injures 
or destroys many of the species, as the disintegration 
which follows alternate freezing and thawing. We have 
often had bulbs of the Tigrinum, Umbellatum and Spe- 
ciosum (Lancifolium) remain on the surface during win- 
ter, without fatal injury, while those in the ground were 
completely destroyed. 

The question may be asked, and it is a pertinent 
one, ‘‘Do not our native Lilies have the same elements 
to contend against as those not indigenous to our soil, 
and having them, escape uninjured?” Certainly, yes; 
but nature always protects her own, and in collecting 
our native species, we see how wisely and beautifully it 
is done. The L. superbum is rarely found, excepting 
in woods, or marshy grounds; the low-growing trees or 
shrubs form a complete net-work of roots above and 
beneath the bulbs, affording the most ample protection 
against the action of the frost, should it penetrate the 
heavy mulching of leaves that nature has provided for 
their protection. The ZL. canadense, or common Lily 
of northern meadows, forms its bulbs very deep, usually 
beyond the reach of frost, and has for a covering a heavy 
turf, than which there can be no better protection. 
This Lily, in our cultivated fields or nursery grounds, is 
by no means hardy. 

12 


1%8 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


/Ksop told the gardener of his master, Xanthus, 
that ‘‘The earth is stepmother to those plants which 
were incorporated into her soil, but a mother to those 
which are her own free production.” This may suggest 
the reason why our own species are capable of with- 
standing the severity of our winters, while those from 
foreign countries are not. 

Whatever may be the cause of failure, we find, by 
our own experience and observation, that where Lilies 
are protected so that frost cannot reach them, they will 
invariably succeed, and thrive in proportion as the other 
conditions of growth are more or less favorable; while 
those left unprotected, if in an exposed situation, are 
quite as sure to die. | 

Let us state a single instance, in corroboration of 
the facts as stated. A friend and neighbor had a pecu- 
har fondness for bulbs, Lilies in particular. Of these 
his choice was the L. speciosum (lancifolium). He 
planted, in early spring, in a bed four feet in diameter, 
a dozen bulbs of the different varieties. They grew 
moderately well, as they should in good soil, his being 
kept covered with grass cut from the lawn. Soon after 
the first frost he covered the bed, to the depth of six 
inches, with coarse manure, extending over the grass to 
double the size of the bed. The following seasons there 
was an enormous growth ; some of the plants were nearly 
six feet high, their stems being an inch or more in diam- 
eter at the base, bearing from twenty to thirty flowers 
each, of a size and substance rarely seen. This bed was 
allowed to remain undisturbed for several years, the 
plants keeping up their vigor of growth, and increasing 
with the most wonderful rapidity ; in fact, when they 
were removed the ground seemed all bulbs. 

The mulching, or the protecting of a bed of Lilies, 
is a simple and inexpensive matter. The best and most 
natural mulching we have ever used is a covering, say 


HELLY: 179 


six inches in depth, of newly fallen leaves, kept in place 
by some brush or a few pieces of board. Any coarse hay 
is also a excellent: protection ; cornstalks answer a very 
good putyose; in short, whatever material is the most 
convenient that will accomplish the purpose, is the best. 

Wet Soil Injurious.—The next important cause 
of failure in Lily culture is in planting in wet situations, 
much water atound the bulbs in winter being about as 
injurious to the plant as much frost. In situations 
where water covers the ground for any great length of 
time when the bulbs are at rest, or during winter, they 
will not be likely to succeed, and are liable to perish. 
There are many gardens noted for their productiveness, 
which cannot be planted before the first of May, because 
of too much moisture ; such a one is not the congenial 
home of the Lily. The remedy is to plant in a raised 
bed. This should be, when finished, at least eighteen 
inches above the level, and is best made in the following 
manner: Lay out a bed of the required size and desired 
shape; upon this place any rough stones, about a foot 
high, irregularly, so that the spaces between them will 
not be more than their diameter; fill these spaces with 
good strong soil even with the tops of the stones; partly 
rotted turf is the best ; on thissoil place the bulbs, about 
eighteen inches apart each way ; then between the bulbs 
place stones of about six inches in diameter, in the same 
irregular manner as the first layer; then cover the whole 
with the same preparation gf soil that was placed between 
the first layer of stones, and the work is complete. The 
bulbs should not be placed nearer than a foot from the 
edge of the bed, which should be sloping and neatly 
sodded, and should always be as closely cut as the lawn 
during summer. ‘This bed will require the same mulch- 
ing during the winter as though the bulbs were planted 
in the ordinary border. With these precautions all gar- 
den Lilies can be grown in perfection, and will reward 


wt 


180 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


the grower liberally for all the care and attention given. 
For a vigorous growth of plant and a perfect devel- 
opment of the flower a few other precautions are neces- 


' sary, although fair success may be obtained without 


them. With the Lily, as with every other plant, the 
better the treatment the better will be the result; and 
nowhere is neglect more apparent than in the garden, as 
there we want, at all times, a display thaé can only be 
had by persistent effort and constant care. The Lily 
occupies a prominent position, and can de had in bloom 
for nearly four months in the season; it is, therefore, 
important that it should not suffer from neglect of any 
kind. It is important, too, that we should have the 
very best results obtainable. A plant with from thirty 
to forty perfectly developed flowers is an object of pride 
to its owner, when compared, as is often the case, with 
one of the same variety with not more than one-fifth the 
number, and these of poorly grown flowers. 

Lilies of all kinds dislike extremes ; they suffer from 
too much water, and are quite as impatient of heat as of 
extreme cold. We have shown how they can be pro- 
tected against moisture; how to protect againt heat is 
the next consideration. To protect against heat at the 
root, which is often a serious injury to the plant, the 
surface of the bed should be carefully mulehed during 
summer, in order to keep the ground cool and moist. 
This is not only necessary for the full development of 
the flower, but also for the growth of the bulb, the 
plant’s storehouse of food, by the aid of which it com- 
mences operations the coming season, both as to the 
development of seed and the increase of bulbs, for the 
extension and perpetuation of the plant. For this pur- 
pose any sightly mulch is suitable; fresh cut grass 
from the lawn answers a good purpose, as do leaves, or 
litter of any kind. We have seen Lilies, heavily mulched 
with leaves, grown in the shrubbery border, that, for 


io 


ep eer ree, ve ee 


F. 
i 
a 
z 
é 


, si 


EELS. 181 


size and vigor, far surpassed our ideas of the capability 
of the plant. We have seen the LZ. superbum, grown in 
this manner, more than eight feet high, with a corres- 
ponding size of stalk and number of flowers. In fact, 
we do not know of a grander object in the garden than 
a group of this Lily grown under such circumstances. 

In a moderately wet season a mulch of living plants 
is not only beneficial, but ornamental as well; for this 
purpose we should recommend the use of some low-grow- 
ing plant, the Verbena, Dwarf Petunia, or any other plant 
that will not offend the eye and cover the ground quickly, 
continuing in flower the whole season. We have known 
good effects to come from mulching L. longiflorum with 
Pansies. In a dry season living plants will not do as 
well as some other forms of mulch, as they draw too 
much moisture from the Lilies, instead of protecting 
them. For field culture a mulching of coarse hay or 
straw answers well, but in the garden that, or any other 
dry mulch, would appear unsightly. 

Partial Shade Necessary.—The next precaution 
is to have the Lily bed partially shaded, either by shrub- 
bery, or so situated that the buildings will afford the 
necessary shade; or the plants may be protected from 
the midday sun by a light lattice roofing, say six feet 
above the plants. An excellent pian is to put up a light 
frame sufficiently large to surround the bed, and cover with 
some very light and open canvas or cloth, to be used in 
excessively hot weather. This will not only prolong the 
season of flowering, but the flowers will be much larger, 
the colors and markings more clearly defined, and the 
petals will expand perfectly, without that tendency to 
dry up or wither at the points, and the whole plant will 
be stronger and more productive. 

Best Soil For Lilies.—What soils do Lilies re- 
quire, or in what kind do they succeed best? These 
questions are frequently asked, and seem to be of great 


182 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


importance ; tc many they seem vital points. Our opin- 
ion, based upon. the experience of many years, is, that 
the condition of the soil 1s of far greater importance than 
its character, and it is upon the former that success 
largely depends. We have grown Lilies in every variety 
of soil, from the lightest sand to the heaviest clay, and 
have met both success and failure in all their various char- 
acters. Our preference is for a light loam, because in 
it propagation is more rapid, and, in all cases, perfect 
flowers are results of perfect development of the plant ; 
should we not have such a soil, we plant in whatever we 
have, knowing full well that the soil that will yield an 
abundant crop of garden vegetables, or field crops, will 
also produce Lilies and other flowers in profusion. It is 
a great mistake to think that each and every plant must 
have a soil with certain specific characters in which to 
grow, in order to attain perfect development. It is true 
that any given plant will do better in a soil congenial to 
it, one similar to that of its native habitat, but it is 
equally true that it will do well in a variety of soils 
where other conditions are favorable. Plants do not live 
on soil alone; they live in the soil, it is their home. 
The soil contains certain elementary substances that con- 
tribute to the growth of plants; the atmosphere con- 
tains an equal number; the two acting in harmony pro- 
duce the plant. These conditions, in any given locality, 
always exist; consequently, whether you have a clayey 
or a sandy soil, you will have in the atmosphere condi- 
tions favorable to it, so, in either case, the results will 
be the same. In the one case you will be obliged to use 
more labor, in the other more manure, to accomplish the 
same purpose. 

But can all the species be successfully grown in the 
same soil? We answer, yes, as nearly as those of any 
other genus of plants with which we are acquainted. 
Make a heavy soil rich, and provide good drainage, 


LILY. 183 


and you will get an abundance of beautiful Lilies. Make 
a light soil rich, and carefully protect from the burn- 
ing sun,—the soil by a proper mulch, and the flowers by 
a suitable screen,—and the same results will follow. 

How To Plant.—The next consideration of im- 
portance is, how to plant, and upon this much depends. 
It is a part of the work but little understood, conse- 
quently most generally neglected. ‘To prepare a proper 
home for the Lily, the soil should be thrown out to the 
depth of two feet; at the bottom there should be, at 
least, six inches in depth of well rotted manure, that 
from the cow stable being preferable. The manure 
should be thoroughly packed down, and upon it put 
twelve inches of well rotted sod, or good garden soil, 
then one inch of clean sand. Upon this bed place the 
bulbs, and cover them with clean sand, then fill up with 
the same kind of soil as is below the bulbs, rotted sod 
being preferable; no manure should ever come in con- 
tact with the bulbs, as it only tends to decay rather 
than to strengthen them. The mission of the bulb is to 
sustain the plant until there is root and leaf development 
sufficient to carry on the work. The bulb is simply a 
storehouse of food laid up by the plant this year, for the 
‘commencement of its labors the next. The plant derives 
its sustenance far away from the bulb, and will increase 
in size and strength in proportion to the amount of food 
in store for it, until it has reached its maximum growth. 
If a good, strong, healthy bulb is planted in a good rich 
soil, a correspondingly strong plant will be the result; 
which, in its turn, will make a number of strong bulbs 
for the perpetuation of the species. It is quite as impor- 
tant to have the soil above the bulb as rich as it is below, 
as most of the species feed near the surface, through 
their thousands of roots thrown out from the stem just 
above the bulb. The soil should be well drained. 

The size and number of the bulbs formed this year 
will depend upon the plants’ resources. If liberal depos- 


184 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


its of food have been made, the increase will be in exact - 
ratio. Stimulating food will not do; it may, for a 
period, show good results, but in the end a loss of vital- 
ity and decay will be apparent. 

When To Plant. —Our next consideration is when 
to plant, and it is an important one. Planting at the 
wrong time is a frequent cause of failure. There is but 
a short period of the year when the bulbs are truly at 
rest, and it is at that period that removals should be 
made. ‘These periods differ with the species. The 
Lilium candidum should be removed in July, and re- 
planted as soon thereafter as possible. This Lily makes 
a growth in autumn, upon which the bloom of the com- 
ing season depends. None of the species are as impa- 
tient of rest as this. The Liliwm excelsum, an allied 
species, does not mature as early, but is nearly as impa- 
tient of rest; we find the best time to remove this bulb 
is in September. ‘This rule will also apply to L. Marta- 
gon (Turk’s Cap), and its varieties. All the other spe- 
cies can be taken up in October, and replanted, or kept 
in store for sale; none of them should remain long ont 
of ground, but as soon as possible pack in leaf mold, 
until the ground is in condition for planting in spring. 
In removals from one part of the garden to another, in 
the formation of new beds, we prefer taking up im spring, 
after growth has commenced; take up, divide, and 
replant as quickly as possible. We have never lost a 
bulb by removal at this time. Under no circumstances 
should Lily bulbs remain long out of ground, or get dry. 
In importing new varieties, and for purposes of sale, it 
is necessary to keep them dry longer than is expedient ; 
every day they are out of the ground materially 
weakens them, often beyond their power of recuperation. _ 
Better, by far, to take up a Lily when in full flower, 
than have a dry and shriveled bulb; in fact, we have 
often taken up Lilies when in flower, without their sus- 


rong 


ie 


LILY. 185 


taining the least injury. We do not wonder that grow- 
ers get discouraged, in their efforts to establish a bed of 
Lilies, when we see them purchase a collection of bulbs 
that have been kept in dry sawdust, or exposed to the 
dry atmosphere of a heated room from October until 
May. Such bulbs will not recover until long after the 
hopes of the gardener have blasted, and he has bestowed 
his blighted affections on some other plant. 

When Lilies have become well established, and 
show, by their flowers, that they have a congenial home, 
frequent removals are not desirable; the bed should 
remain undisturbed as long as the plants bloom satisfac- 
torily. Jt is well to remove the small bulbs that form 
at the base of the stem in early spring, and transfer 
them to a well prepared bed, to perfect their growth, 
after which they may be placed in a permanent bed. 

In planting the small bulbs, it is the better plan not 
to remove them from the stem, but to lay the portion of 
the stem, with the bulbs attached, lengthwise in the 
drill, and cover about two inches with good fibrous soil, 
free from fresh manure; the decaying stem and mass of 
roots that surround the young bulbs will, in their decay, 
materially assist in the development of the young bulbs. 

Lilies in Autumn.—While it is best to plant the 
bulbs as we have above stated, there is a notable excep- 
tion, which, like all others, confirms the rule. An ex- 
periment, the result of accident, has shown us that 
Lilies of all kinds can be had in autumn, as well as in 
midsummer. The following is the result of our experi- 
ence, as we reported it in the Garden and Forest, Octo- 
ber, 1892: <‘ Last spring one of our seedsmen had a num- 


. ber of cases of assorted Lilies left over from spring sales. 


After their journey from Japan in November of the pre- 
vious year, and having been kept perfectly dry until the 
middle of May, the prospect of flowers from these bulbs 
was poor indeed. In hopes of saving something out of 


186 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


them, we planted the lot about May 20th. To our sur- 
prise, nearly all of them came up and made a vigorous 
struggle for life. The result was that this morning 
(October 10th) we have gathered from a bed of ZL. ti- 
grinum splendens as fine spikes as ever were cut in July. 
The plants of LZ. speciosum did nearly as well, but their 
flowers were over last week, excepting L. speciosum 
precox, Which are in bloom, although the flowers are 
considerably damaged by the storm. JL. longiflorum 
bloomed well, but were all gone a month ago. The 
plants of L. auratum behaved as they always do; 
some came up quickly, and flowered in August, and 
there have been flowers in the row every day since, while 
some are just coming up. ‘These we shall pot for the 
greenhouse if there are enough to make it pay. This 
experience has taught us that the season of Lilies can be 
kept up until after a hard frost, with but little trouble, 
and add greatly to the display of autumn flowers. From 
the show these Tiger Liles are making, it is evident 
they should not be allowed to bloom at any other season, 
as their deep, rich orange-crimson flowers are now in 
harmony with all their surroundings. For autumn 
flowers the bulbs should be taken up in November, 
packed away in dry sand or sphagnum moss, and stored 
in some dry cool place until about May 15th. The low 
price of the bulbs of the Z. tigrinum should make them 
popular autumn flowers, when they can be had with so 
little trouble and expense.” 

Selection of Lilies.—In the cultivation of Lilies, 
the selection of varieties is an important consideration. 
It depends wholly upon the taste of the individual, the 
amount of money to be expended, and the amount of_ 
room to be devoted to their culture, all of which points 
must be determined by him. We shall describe accu- 
rately all known species and distinct varieties, without, 
in the least, advismg as to choice. It is, however, well 


—- 


Tune 187 


to remark that in making a selection one cannot well go 
wrong, as there is not one in the long list which is 
unworthy of a place in any choice collection of plants ; 
but some are much more desirable than others, as is the 
case with every class of plants. Whoever makes a start 
in Lily culture, and is successful,—as he will be, if he 
follows the instruction given,—will be sure to embrace 
in his collection as many varieties as his space and means 
will afford. 

The expense attending the collection of a large 
number of the rarer species, deters many from making a 
beginning. But the investment, heavy as it may seem at 
the start, is, in reality, a good one, as plants that are 
steadily and rapidly increasing in number, though they 
may seem expensive, are, in the end, much cheaper than 
those that must be renewed annually, as in the case of 
the popular bedding plants, and many others of interest. 
The annual increase of bulbs, when properly cared for, » 
will not only soon repay the original cost, but will yield 
a large profit. The higher priced bulbs, when their 
requirements are respected, increase as rapidly as many 
of the cheaper ones, which makes their cultivation 
profitable. 

Forcing Lilies For Winter Flowers.—But two 
of the many species of Lilies are grown in pots for win- 
ter flowers, mainly because none others excepting JL. 
candidum and L. longiflorum, and its varieties succeed 
well when grown in this manner, and because the flowers 
of the other varieties are not in demand for decorative 
purposes. Other than white Lilies seem to be out of 
place in floral designs or for table decoration, excepting 
in the summer time. 

Lilium candidum, which is popularly known as 
Annunciation Lily, the former Easter Lily, is largely 
grown by florists for decorative purposes and for floral 
designs, the single flower being admirably adapted to 


188 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


this purpose. It is not difficult to successfully grow the 
plant. “Lhe method employed by those who grow this 
Lily largely and well, is to pot the bulbs singly in eight 
inch pots, as soon as the bulbs can be obtained, the 
earlier the better, and when possible using a rich, lively 
loam, avoiding fresh manure; plunge the pots to the 
rim in a frame where they can have free sunlight and 
air. Their annual autumn growth will soon commence, 
when water should be freely given, and growth encour- 
aged as much as possible, which will continue until the 
ground is frozen. Upon the approach of frost, cover 
the pots with newly fallen leaves, and cover thet frames 
might stimulate ee growth, and to keep car the 
frost, or rather, hard freezing, in order that the pots 
can be taken into the greenhouse as required, during 
winter. The pots can be brought in at any time after 
the plants have had a short rest. It is better, however, 
not to start them too soon, but to commence about the 
first of January, and bring them in as required for a 
succession. ‘They are best grown in a cool house, where 
they can have an abundance of light and air. When 
crowded, in a warm house, they grow up long and weak, 
and quickly become the prey of insect enemies. In a 
cool house, say with a temperature of 60° F. by day, and 
40° by night, they will come into bloom in ten weeks. 
They can be made to bloom in much less time, but at 
the expense of health to both plant and flower. 

Home grown bulbs are greatly to be preferred to 
imported ones, the latter quite frequently being injured 
by heating in transit. Another reason for this prefer- 
ence being that all vegetation is more rapid in this cli- 
mate than in France, where these bulbs are principally 
grown for the American market. Here the bulbs have 
a longer period of rest, and develop their growth in a 
much shorter period. ‘The consequence is, the bulbs 


LILY. 189 


grown here will come into flower much svoner after 
being brought into the house, than do those from foreign 
countries. While this is the best method of growing 
them, the more common one is to take the ‘bulbs, as 
imported, pot them from the first of October to the first 
of December, plunging them in the same manner, and 
in all respects treat in the same way. ‘This does not give 
the bulbs a chance to fill the pots with roots, or to make 
the preliminary growth so essential to their perfect 
development. If the florist grows his own bulbs he can 
have them potted by the first of August, and they will 
very soon commence their season’s work. 

Treatment After Flowering in the Green- 
house.—soon after flowering, the pots can be put in 
any out-of-the-way place, either in a cool shed, or under 
the benches, there to remain until they can be planted 
in the field for future use. ‘There they should be liber- 
ally treated, both as regards care in cultivation, and in 
having a liberal supply of plant food. Bulbs that have 
been forced should have a rest of, at least, two years in 
the field, before they can be successfully grown again 
in the greenhouse. 

The Bermuda Lily.—This is the popular name 
of L. longiflorum, var. eximium, first brought prom- 
inently to the attention of the florists, by H. K. Harris, 
of Philadelphia, under the name of Z. Harrisii. It 
was also sent out under the name of L. floribundum. 
It is often called Haster Lily. 

These bulbs are almost exclusively grown for forcing 
purposes on the Island of Bermuda, where they perfect 
their growth early in July. This fact is important, as 
bulbs matured at that time will perfect their flowers in 
the greenhouse fully two months earlier than those 
grown at the North, where they do not ripen until Octo- 
ber. The methods of cultivating this, the most showy 
of Lilies for Easter decoration, are variable, each florist 


190 


BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS, 


A FIELD OF LILIES IN BERMUDA, 


BERMUDA LILY. 191 


having a plan of his own; or, at least, in visiting many 
of the largest growers, we hear very different opinions 
expressed, in regard to the size of the bulb to be grown, 
for the greatest profit; the temperature required to bring 
them forward to the best advantage, and whether they 
are best grown in pots or on benches. 

We find the better plan is to pot the bulbs as soon 
as received from Bermuda, and that a careful selection 
of sizes is a matter of great importance. It was, for 
some years, thought that the larger the bulbs, the greater 
would be the chances of success in their flowering ; but 
now the smaller sizes are more generally used. It is 
found that well-matured bulbs, of from three to five 
inches in circumference, well grown in a five-inch pot, 
will give from one to three fiowers each, and that the 
small bulbs will produce their flowers in a much shorter 
time than the largest sized ones. As the flower stems 
are cut, for decorative purposes, close to the pot, as soon 
as two or three flowers are opened, the plant from the 
small bulb will bring very nearly as much as the other, 
which costs three times as much at the start, and as 
much more to grow. The plant sells for a given price 
per flower, and, as there are not usually more than three 
open at a time, the unopened buds are of no value. “The 
profits of a grower depend largely upon how much he 
can cut, or grow, on a given space, and in growing Lilies 
he finds he can get double the number of stalks from a 
bench planted with small bulbs, from what he could if 
planted with the largest ones, consequently they are far 
the more profitable. 

There is another important consideration in the use 
of small bulbs, viz., the time in which they can be 
brought into flower. One florist, last season, cut his 
first flowers at ‘“‘ Thanksgiving,” and they came on rap- 
idly thereafter. At this season flowers for decorative 
purposes are in good demand, consequently they bring 


————__ oo 


192 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


satisfactory prices. As Christmas is one of the best sea- 
sons for the sale of these flowers, it is an object to get 
them in at-that time, and the small bulbs are the only 
ones that can be depended upon to furnish them. 

When the bulbs are shipped from Bermuda, they 
are in separate grades, as from three to five, and up to 
from nine to twelve inches in circumference. Each of 
these grades should be made into two classes, the larger 
and smaller to be potted separately ; for instance, those 
between four and five inches should be put in six inch 
pots, those from three to four inches will do well in five 
inch pots. The larger sizes will require large pots, but, 
except for large plants for exhibition or decorative pur- 
poses, an eight inch pot is sufficiently large for any of 
the bulbs. There is a peculiarity about this bulb not 
common to any other. Hach seems to have a time of its 
own to develop its flowers. In bringing forward a hun- 
dred pots, where the bulbs were carefully selected as to 
size, and all given the same treatment, there will be a 
marked difference in their time of coming into flower. 
For this reason, the practice of growing them in boxes 
or planting them out on the benches, was abandoned, 
there being a great loss in room to await the flowering 
of the late ones, after the main crop had been cut. 
When planted singly, in pots, they can be removed as 
soorm as the stems are cut, and their places filled by others 
to keep up a succession. 

In potting, soils of various character are used, not as 
a matter of choice, but of necessity; the location of the 
florist must decide that matter, as he is limited in his 
choice. However, they will succeed in any good potting 
soil, all other conditions being favorable. In potting, 
do not press the bulb down so as to have the soil beneath 
it hard, as the roots will not penetrate it freely, and do 
not have the ,bulb more than half an inch below the rim 
of the pot. / Plunge the pots in coal ashes in a cold 


an ik had 


BERMUDA LILY. 193 


frame, and cover them with the same to the depth of one 
or two inches, and over this a light covering of leaves or 
fine hay, to prevent evaporation, and to keep the bulbs 
moist and cool. They should be kept perfectly dark, 
and away from the air, which would have a tendency to 
stimulate leaf-growth, which is undesirable until the 
bulbs have had ample time to make root-growth, after their 
natural and desired rest, before the stem starts, which is 
one of the most important considerations in bulb culture. 
For early flowers the pots can be brought into the 
greenhouse by the middle of September, or as soon as 
active growth has commenced, but never before the plant 
has made a growth of, at least, an inch above the pot. 
At this stage growth must be encouraged and steadily 
maintained, a check is to them a serious matter, which 
will be plainly shown by blight, some insect enemy and 
the absence of flowers. Fora healthful, vigorous growth, 
a free circulation of air, even temperature and great 
care in watering, are rules that must be strictly observed. 
They do not require a high temperature, neither will 
they submit to a low one. For general cultivation in 
the greenhouse, a temperature of from 70° to 80° by day, 
and from 60° to 70° by night, will produce the best 
results. But to be sure of a crop of flowers for Christ- 
mas, a temperature of, at least, 5° higher, should be 
maintained after the first four weeks. | . 
For decorative purposes, where large specimen 
plants are desired, the largest bulbs should be planted, 
and if they have two or more divisions, all the better, as 
a number of stems, with three or four flowers each, is a 
more showy object than a single one can possibly be. 
For this purpose it does not do to put several bulbs in 
the same pot, because of the uncertainty of their coming 
into flower at the same time. Specimen plants will not 
bear crowding ; they must have plenty of room for a free 
circulation of air around them, and a lower temperature 


“138 


— ae eT 


194 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


given them. ‘To be strong they must be grown slowly ; 
too much heat and little air will make a spindling plant, 
that will not unfrequently drop its buds. When grown 
slowly, the flowers will have more substance, they will 
be larger, and there will be a larger number open at one 
time, and will be mere enduring, which greatly enhances 
their value. ? 

Lilies For Easter.—The same rules should be 
observed in forcing flowers for Easter; the larger bulbs 
should be potted for this purpose, using eight inch pots. 
Should the plants make a very vigorous growth, seem- 
ingly too large for the pot, do not make a shift, under 
any circumstances, but supply the additional food re- 
quired, by liquid cow manure, which should be used lib- 
erally twice a week. 

L. longiflorum.—The type should be treated in 
the same manner. ‘The only difference between the varie- 
ties being, that the Longiflorum is later in coming 
into flower, and is not so tall; its flowers are smaller, 
but more enduring, and will bear transportation better. 
A temperature 10° lower would be better for this Lily. 
This is grown more for the Easter trade, which is the 
harvest of this industry. The Bermuda grown bulbs 
come into flower quicker than the Dutch grown ones, 
because they are ripened earlier, but the Dutch bulbs, 
we think, are preferable, as the plants are more dwarf, 
and quite as floriferons. These should be potted as soon 
as received, in October, and the flowers can then be had 
for the Haster trade, and for decorative purposes for 
some weeks thereafter, when the Eximiums are gone. 

The Use of Bulbs After Forcing.—After the 
bulbs are done flowering, water should be withheld for 
about ten days; they should then be placed in a cold 
frame, or sheltered spot, the balls packed close together, 
with sufficient soil thrown over them to fill up the inter- 
stices ; then cover with three or four inches of dry leaves, 


LILY. 195 


and if in midwinter, they must be covered with sash ; if 
in spring, the covering of leaves alone will be sufficient 
to protect against frost. The bulbs so treated will flower 
freely again in August, in the open ground, but would 
not do as well to force for the succeeding winter, if 
wanted for that purpose, and would require another 
year’s growth to be in proper condition ; for that reason 
it is the most economical plan to use the Bermuda grown 
bulbs, which have been specially prepared for winter 
forcing. The common practice is to throw the bulbs 
away, but they can be grown for summer flowers, if 
wanted. 

Species and Varieties.—The following list in- 
cludes all that are really useful for general cultivation, 
or all that have distinctive characteristics. Many varie- 
tal names we have passed unnoticed, because of their 
insignificance, and because they are simply synonyms, 
applied to increase the number of varieties for purposes 
of sale, rather than to assist the gardener in a choice. 
It is often the case that a given species or variety has 
had several names given it, by different growers or col- 
lectors, who supposed themselves the only possessors. 
Wherever a name has been omitted the reader must rest 
assured the variety or species is noticed under some other 
name. For the sake of completeness we have noticed 
many varieties that are not of great importance to a col- 
lection, as will be seen by the notice we give of them. 

L. auratum (Golden-rayed Lily of Japan).—This 
species is very popular and well known. It is due to 
the varieties to say that for the open border they are the 
grandest of all Lilies. For floral decoration, or in any 
arrangement of cut flowers, they do not compare at all 
favorably with many of the species. In a small room its 
fragrance is overpowering and sickening, and soon after 
cutting it has a somewhat wilted appearance. In the 
garden it stands long without fading, and its fragrance 


196 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


is not objectionable. The LZ. auratum has disappointed 
more of its admirers than almost any other Lily, because 
of its failure to adapt itself to our soil and climate. Our 
experience with these bulbs proves that they are not 
hardy, in a sense that other Lilies are. They must be 
protected, both against cold and standing water, both in 
open soils, and where the water does not stand over 
them during their periods of rest. When guarded at 
all, in these points, they are as long-lived, and will grow 
as vigorously as any other Lily. They are, moreover, 
impatient of heat, and to be grown successfully they 
should be in partial shade, and the ground covered in 
summer with newly cut grass or some other suitable 
mulch. The flowers of this species vary more in shape, 
color and markings than any of the other Lilies, so 
much so that some growers have selected a large-number 
with decided markings and forms, and have awarded 
them varietal names. In growing large numbers, and 
watching their habits closely, we do not think this prac- 
tice warrantable, because the character of the flowers 
depends so much upon the conditions of growth, that 
under changed conditions they are not constant; that a 
bulb which has given very large flowers this year, may 
give inferior ones the next, and the reverse. We have 
also noticed, in our selection from beds of those with a 
red instead of the yellow band, that the color is not con- 
stant, and the following year the band will again be 
yellow. 

There are, however, some distinct varieties, which 
we shall notice in their order, from the seeds of which 
the bulbs we receive from Japan are grown. ‘The seeds 
from these varieties are undoubtedly cross-fertilized, 
which will account for the vast number of forms and 
colors we find among the imported bulbs. The same 
law holds good with this Lily as with all other plants, 
that where cross-fertilization has once been effected 


Ee ee 
7 


LILY. 197 


that marked variations will be noticeable in all future 
generations. 

The type reaches a height of from three to four feet, 
bearing from four to twelve ivory-white flowers, with a 
distinct central band of bright yellow, with numerous 
deep purple spots; when fully expanded the flowers are 
from eight to twelve inches across. When planted in a 
deep, rich soil, the stalks often assume a fasciated form, 
producing an immense number of flowers; the greatest 
number we have ever seen on a single stem being one 
hundred and twenty-six. Like all other monstrosities, 
number is at the expense of beauty. What are known 
to the trade as home-grown bulbs are greatly to be pre- 
ferred to newly imported ones, which are apt to be taken 
up beiore they are fully ripened, besides losing much of 
their vitality by long transit, in a dry state. All the 
forms of L. auratwm succeed admirably when grown in 
pots, because then they are not likely to be injured by 
frost, or from a surfeit of water. 

Var. rubra vittatum.—This form differs from the 
type by having a band of rich bright crimson, instead of 
the yellow, and in the spots, which have a brighter tint. 

Var. cruentum.—This is a dwarf form, bearing 
large flowers, with a rather dingy maroon stripe, darken- 
ing towards the center, with purplish-crimson spots. 

Var. Emperor.—A grand flower, of good shape 
and substance, with reddish spots and center. 

Var. rubro-pictum.—When this flower first opens 
it is very beautiful; the bright yellow band changes to 
crimson at the ends of the petals; the spots are of the 
same crimson tint. 

Var. pictum.—Same as the last, excepting the tip 
only, or lower end of the petal, being marked with 
crimson. 

Var. virginale.—This is unquestionably the grand- 
est of all the LZ. auratum varieties, and if it were not 


198 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROCGTED PLANTS. 


for its rarity, which greatly enhances its cost, all other 
varieties would only be grown to make a collection 
complete. In this flower there is no other color but pure 
yellow and white; it is rarely spotted, the spots, when 
present, being tinted with yellow; the petals are uni- 
form, very heavy and papillose at the base of all the divis- 
ions, giving it a beautiful crested appearance. 

Var. Wittei.—This variety was introduced by E. 
H. Krelage, who fancied he saw in it distinct characters 
from those so pronounced in ZL. a. virginale; if such 
there are, none but an expert could detect them. 

L. avenaceum (Oat-like).—A native of the colder 
parts of Japan, where there are about nine months winter 
and three of extreme heat, yet it will not withstand the 
rigors of northern winters without protection. It grows 
about two feet high, producing from three to eight spot- 
ted flowers, in general appearance resembling our native 
Canadense species. 

L. Batemanniz.—This is an exceptionally fine 


es ~ Lily, growing, when properly treated, from three to four 


feet high, bearing from six to twelve semi-cup shaped 
flowers, unspotted, of a clear apricot color. It comes 
into flower about July 20th, developing slowly and con- 
tinuing a long time, the flowers remaining fresh until 
they drop. Whether it is a true species or garden hybrid 
is unknown. It is probably the former. Its cultivation 
is the most simple, growing freely in almost any soil or 
situation, increasing very rapidly by offsets. We should 
place this among the best six for general cultivation, 
both as regards effect and beauty. See upper flower in 
the engraving, on Page 204. 

L. Batisua.—A synonym of LZ. Wallichianum. 

L. belladonna.—A variety described by Max 
Leichtlin, from a drawing sent from this country. We 
have seen this Lily in bloom in the garden of the late 
P. Hanson, who claimed it as one of his seedlings, but 


7 ee oe 


199 


Tiny, 
BROWN’S LILY. 


200 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


did not give its parentage. The stock is probably lost. 

L. bicolor.—A variety of L. elegans, Page 208. 

L. biligulatum.—A synonym of Z. elegans san- 
quinea. See Page 208. 

L. Bloomerianum.—See L. Humboldtii, Page 213. 

L. Bourgei.—A variety of L. pardalinum (219). 

L. brevifolium.—A variety of L. elegans, Page 209. 
“ L. Brownii.—Much confusion exists im regard to 
the origin of this noble Lily. Some consider it a dis- 
tinct type; other, and good authorities, too, say it is 
identical with L. japonicum. Certain it is, that a close 
relation exists between the two, as well as with L. Col- 
chesterti, and also L. Takesima. Many regard L. longi- 
florum the parent of them all. Whatever its parentage 
may be, and from whatever source it may have derived 
its name, there is no disputing the fact of its being one 
of the grandest of Lilies. When properly managed, it 
attains a height of four feet, bearing from two to four 
flowers eight inches in length, pure ivory white inside, 
and a rich chocolate brown on the outside of its petals. 
The contrast in its colors, when first opened, is remark- 
ably pleasing, and gives the flower an indescribable rich- 
ness. This Lily is but little grown, from the mistaken 
idea that it is difficult to manage, and because of its 
high price. Neither reason should stand in the way of 
its general cultivation. Its management is not at all 
difficult, its requirements being a good rich soil, free 
from stimulating manures; a situation where water does 
not cover the ground at any time; and sure protec- 
tion against frost. The bulbs increase rapidly, when 
grown under these conditions, which soon renders cheap 
a bed of rare flowers. These bulbs are impatient of rest, 
out of ground, consequently long voyages are fatal to 
them. Bulbs should be obtained directly from the 
grower, and planted as soon as received ; it matters but 
little as to season, preferring the period of rest for their — 


rid Ae 201 


removal, as with all other Lilies. Frequent removals 
are injurious. So long as they flower well do not disturb 
them. See Engraving on Page 199. 

L. bulbiferum.—This species was known and 
described by Parkinson in 1629, and from that day until 
the present it has never had a fixed place in the family 
of Lilies, and is known under a great variety of names. 
LI. croceum and L. umbellatum being the more common 
appellations. ‘This confusion arises from the fact of its 
name being misleading. Its name would imply bulb- 
bearing at the axils of its leaves, as is the case with the 
LL. tigrinum, the ordinary Tiger Lily, which it rarely, if 
ever, does. Sometimes, if the flower-heads be removed 
early in the season, small bulbs will form at the axils of 
the leaves, but this is not sufficient to warrant its dis- 
tinctive name. It is a native of Central Kurope, grows 
from two to three feet high, bearing an umbel of from 
four to eight large, broad-petaled, cup-shaped flowers, 
of arich, dark cherry red color, having an orange blotch, 
and a few black dots in the center. It is what might, 
with considerable propriety, be termed hardy. It is a 
strong, vigorous grower, very showy, and thriving under 
nearly all circumstances. 

L. Buschianum.—A variety of LZ. concolor. 

L. californicum.—A variety of L. pardalinum. 

L. callosum.—An early, small flowering Lily from 
Japan, where its bulbs are grown, like those of ZL. ti- 
grinum, as an article of food; flowers are bright red, 
produced in a raceme of from four to eight. A variety, 
stenophyllum, from Eastern Siberia, is of a taller and 
stronger habit. ‘This variety closely resembles L. tenqi- 
folium, but has not the same grace and brilliancy of 
color. 

L. canadense.—This is the species so common in 
our meadows, and known as the Meadow Lily. It grows 
from two to four feet high, bearing from one to ten 


202 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


drooping, bell-shaped yellow flowers, shaded with orange. 
Like all indigenous plants, it is easily grown, and capa- 
ble of improvement by good cultivation. Its varieties 
are : | 
Var. rubrum.—A strong grower, free flowering ; 
color bright crimson, with small spots. In clumps, 
under cultivation, it is exceedingly beautiful. 

Var. flavum.—tThis has the same general habit as 
the foregoing ; its flowers are bright yellow, slightly 
tinged with crimson, and spotted with brown. 

Var. parvum.—A form common in California, 
growing from four to six feet high, and bears in a raceme 
on long stalks, a great number of pendulous, small yel- 
low dotted flowers, with broad, blunt petals; foliage in 
whorls. 

Var. parviflorum.—A form closely resembling the 
above, differing in its lower growth and smaller flowers. 

Var. maritimum.—Is a small-flowered maritime 
Lily, found in low, peaty meadows on the coast near 
San Francisco. The flowers are deep reddish orange- 
brown, spotted dark purple inside. Like most of the 
California Lilies, this variety does not lke the Hastern 
climate of America, and does not succeed well there. 

L. candidum.—This species is older than history, 
as the first notice made of plants speaks of it as a ‘‘ well- 
known plant.” It is the loveliest, as well as the oldest, 
and if we were to have but one Lily, Candidum would 
be the one. As a garden flower the cultivation of 
Candidum is most simple. It will thrive in any fairly 
good soil, but to insure a free growth and a profusion of 
flowers, the soil should be rich, deep and moist. It is, 
therefore, best to make suitable arrangements for the 
bed by first selecting a favorable situation, and then put- 
ting it in the most perfect condition by digging deep 
and enriching thoroughly. Plantings should always be 
made in August, when the bulbs are at rest; very soon 


TIWY: 203 


thereafter they commence their autumn growth of leaves, 
upon which, in a great measure, depends their next 
season’s flowering. After planting, it is best to leave 
them undisturbed so long as they bloom in a satisfactory 
manner. Wm. Robinson, of the Garden, says: ‘‘It is 
one of the kinds that dislike coddling or being meddled 
with, and thrives best when left undisturbed for years in 
good garden soil. Any attempt to deal with it in the 
same manner as with the more delicate ones, generally 
results in failure.” In our climate, where we have such 
extremes of weather during winter, with but little snow, 
mulching, as recommended in our cultural instructions, 
is an absolute necessity. Shaded, or partially shaded, 
situations, are often recommended for Lilies, and, as a 
rule, such are best; but for Candidum an open, sunny 
position, where it can have a free circulation of air, is 
preferable. Shelter from our cold, northerly winds is 
desirable, as in much exposed places it often fails to 
flower, owing to the destruction of the incipient flower- 
buds, by frost in May. For directions for pot culture or 
for forcing in the greenhouse, see cultural instructions, 
Page 188. The varieties of Lilimm candidum are: 

Var. foliis aureo marginatis.—A form in which 
a broad golden margin to the foliage prevails; very 
beautiful for greenhouse culture. The flower is the 
same, in all respects, as that of the species, excepting 
that it is a clearer white with little less substance. 

Var. striatum.—A form with fine purple streaks 
running through flower and foliage. More singular 
than beautiful. 

Var. flore pleno (L. spicatum monstrosum).—An 
abnormal form, the flowers being abortive, the leaves 
assuming the character of a flower on the upper part of 
the stalk. Except as a curiosity it is of no value. 

Var. peregrinum.—A more slender growing form, 
but little known or cultivated, 


oe 


204 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


A native of the Levant, Austria 


L. carniolicum. 


and Lombardy. <A strong grower, stems rising from 
two to three feet. Flowers appearing very early, last of 


May or early in June; delightfully fragrant, color bright 
orange-scarlet, spotted with black. 


BATEMAN’S, AND THE CHALCEDONIAN LILY. 


L. carolinianum.—aAllied to L. superbum, which 


see. 

L. Catesbzi.—A native of South Carolina and 
Florida, with fine grass-like foliage and very slender 
flower stalk. Flowers closely resembling L. philadelphi- 


LILY. 205 


cum ; it is very tender, will not endure even a Virginian 
winter. Bulbs delicate, and impatient of removal. It 
is only valuable in botanical collections. 

L. cattaneze.—A variety of Z. Martagon, Page 216. 

L. Chaixii.—A variety of LZ. crocewm, Page 206. 

L. chalcedonicum.—A very old and handsome 
Lily, rarely met in our gardens, from the fact of its not 
being sufficiently hardy to survive our winter. With but 
little care in protecting it, it would thrive with the same 
luxuriance as LZ. candidum, and, like that species, it dis- 
likes removals. In England this Lily grows from three 
to four feet high, bearing several pendulous, vermilion- 
red, turban-shaped flowers in July.. With us it flowers 
in June, and is well worth a place in every collection 
(See lower flowers in engraving on opposite page). 

Var. pyrenaicum.—A variety from the moun- 
tains of Albania, is described by D. T. Fish as having 
fiery red flowers, and by Dr. Wallace as haying yellow 
flowers. Mr. Fish refers to L. flavum, which he calls a 
“yellow beauty.” ‘The two forms undoubtedly exist, 
with a slight confusion in nomenclature. ~ 

L. citrinum.—A variety of L. elegans. 

L. colchicum.—See L. monadelphum, Page 217. 

L. columbianum.—A native of Oregon, growing 
at a high elevation, in dry, sandy soil. It has a very 
graceful form, growing from three to four feet high ; 
flowers quite numerous, pendulous, and of a bright yel- 
lowcolor. It thrives much better Hast than most of the 
Pacific Coast species. 

L. concolor.—A very dwarf and beautiful species 
from Japan. Its bulbs have a tendency to break up; a 
bulb not more than an inch in diameter will frequently 
throw up five or six stems; this will, in a measure, be 
avoided by leaving the bulbs where planted for a number 
of years. The plant grows from two to twelve inches 
high, and produces from one to three crimson, erect, 


oe 


eee 


206 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


star-shaped flowers, slightly spotted. Of this species we 
notice the following varieties : 

Var. Coridion.—In all respects like the species, 
excepting that the flowers are a trifle larger, and of a rich 
yellow color, slightly flaked with brown. 

Var. sinicum.—A Chinese variety, growing from 
two to three feet high, bearing from four to six larger 
and more spotted flowers, from a somewhat larger bulb 
than that of the species. But little known in this 
country. 

Var. pulchellum.—A Siberian variety, flowering 
much earlier, growing from one and one-half to two feet 
high, bearing a star-shaped crimson flower, very similar 
to that of the species, but with narrower and smaller 
petals. 

Var. Buschianum.—Scarlet with black spots. 

Var. Partheneion.—A form so closely allied to ZL. 
concolor, that a specific name should not have been 
given it. 

L. cordifolium (Heart-shaped).—This is strictly a 
greenhouse plant, as it will not thrive out of doors; a 


_ native of Japan, growing from five to ten feet high; in 


flower it is one of the most majestic of all known Lilies. 
The flowers are produced in racemes from fifteen to 
twenty-four inches long, with from six to twelve flowers 
inaraceme. See also under Giganteum, Page 212. 

L. Coridion.—See L. concolor, Page 200. 

L. corymbiflorum.—A form of LZ. speciosum. | 

L. croceum (Orange).—This is an old and com- 
mon inhabitant of our gardens, and one of the most 
hardy. It is a native of the colder mountain districts of 
Kurope, and will thrive in almost any soil or situation. 
It grows about two feet high, producing enormous heads 
of large, rich orange-colored flowers. The introduction 
of the Japanese species has nearly driven this Lily 
from many of our gardens. 


LILY. 907 


Var. Chaixii.—A rather pleasing form bearing but 
one or two flowers on a spike, not more than fifteen 
inches high. Not much cultivated. 

Bermuda Lily.—A common name for L. longiflo- 
rum, var. ecimium, Pages 189 and 215. 

L. cruentum.—A variety of LZ. speciosum. 

L. dalmaticum.—A sub-variety of Z. Martagon. 

L. Davidi.—A synonym of Partheneion, Page 206. 

L. davuricum.—This species resembles L. twbiflo- 
rum, in its large, erect, open, bell-shaped flowers, which 
are deep red, yellowish in the center, and dark spotted. 
It is one of the most desirable of its class, flowering well 
in partial shade. Like others nearly allied, this species 
has many varieties, most of which are described under 
other species. 

Easter Lily.—A common name for L. longiflorum 
extmium, formerly applied to L. candidum, Page 202. 

L. elegans.—An early flowering Lily, and one of 
the best for general cultivation, for early flowers and for 
display. It was formerly sent out under the name of 
L. Thunbergianum, which is now regarded as a sub- 
variety of the species. It 1s a variable species, there 
now being listed more than a score of varieties, and 
probably as many sub-varieties. The type grows about 
one foot high, with stout, erect stems, furnished with 
numerous narrow leaves, and terminated with an umbel 
of dark orange-red flowers, from five to six inches across. 
Dr. Wallace, the celebrated authority on Lilies, has 
made the following very excellent classification of the 
varieties : 

Group A. 

Var. armeniacum ( venustum).—One of the latest 

flowering ; a rich vermilion orange-colored form, with- 


out spots, known at once by its peculiar twisted foliage ; 
it grows about one foot high. 


ee 


—_ oe 


208 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


Var. fulgens.—Also about one foot high, with 
spotted, reddish flowers. 

Var. fulgens flore pleno (staminatum). — The 
double form of the foregoing variety, remarkable more 
as a curiosity than for its beauty. 

Var. fulgens atrosanguineum.—This is really a 
fine variety, being more robust in habit than the original 
Fulgens, and of a deeper, rich blood-red tint. 

Var. fulgens alternans.—A light tinted form of 
Fulgens, suffused and flaked with lighter tints. 

Var. sanguineum (diligulatwm).—An early form, 
inclined somewhat to be cup-shaped in flower, but with 
narrow petals; reddish-brown flower, with a few dark 
spots. 3 

Var. alutaceum.—Known under a great variety of 
names by the Dutch growers; a very distinct dwarf 
form, about six inches high, with rich apricot-colored 
flowers, systematically spotted. A larger form of this is 
known under the name Grandiflorum, with more robust 
habit, and larger, richer colored flowers. 

Var. Prince of Orange.—The most beautiful 
spotted variety, of a soft, pleasing, light buff tint ; also 
dwarf. 


Group B. 


Var. bicolor (pictum).—One of the handsomest of 
the forms, but the petals are flimsy, and its beauties are 
soon over; a stout-growing form, from one to two feet 
high, bearing several large, broad-petaled, few-spotted, 
slightly cup-shaped flowers, yellow tinted, but tipped 
and splashed with crimson tints, and when quite fresh, 
with a lilac sheen. : 

Var. aurantiacum verum.—This is a noble plant 
and a distinct variety. Unfortunately, when we buy it, 
it is not always as true as its name would indicate. We 
consider it the peer of Excelsum ; its flowers are large, 


LILY. 209 


well arranged, of excellent form, and of a clear yellowish 
salmon color. 

Var. marmoratum.—A very early form, broad- 
petaled, of a deep, rich crimson color, flaked and tipped 
with orange ; spotted. 

Var. marmoratum aureum.—Another very early 
variety ; more spotted than the last, the yellow predom- 
inating, with red margins. 

Var. Alice Wilson.—This is decidedly the finest 
Lily in this class, and rivals the Monadelphum in rich- 
ness of color and general effect as a border plant. It 
erows about two feet high, producing from three to 
eight large, well-opened, finely-shaped flowers, of a deep, 
clear lemon color, with small spots. Like all of its class, 
it is easy to manage, and is readily increased by offsets, 
a decided advantage. 

Var. Maurii.—A very large flower, orange-crimson, 
heavily and distinctly spotted, and richly shaded. 

Var. Van Houttei.—A richly tinted, deep scarlet 
form, with a yellow blotch in the center, and sometimes 
at the tip; broad-petaled; very beautiful, contrasting 
grandly with the Alice Wilson. 

Var. Horsmanni.—A deep blood-red, broad-pet- 
aled form, spotted; one of the handsomest and most 
richly tinted. 


Group C. 


Var. brevifolium. — Distinguished by its very 
short, acutely-pointed, broad, thick leaves, only one and 
one-half to two and one-half inches long; very early 
flowering ; flowers cup-shaped, and of a light reddish 
tint, with a purplish gloss; spotted, tips flaked with 
yellow. 

Var. splendens.—This form, in its relation to the 
species, is rightly named, growing two and one-half feet 
high, with a stout stem, and L. wmbellatum-like foliage ; 

14 


aT ay 


210 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


very light green, three inches long, having an umbel of 
deeply-cupped, very large flowers, of a rich apricot yel- 
low with purple spots. It is particularly desirable 
because it is the earliest flowering variety in the group. 

Var. Wilsoni (pardinum).—A very desirable vari- 
ety because of its being the latest to flower, thus keep- 
ing up a succession. It is a strong grower, two feet 
high, stem bronzed below, green above, the leaves quite 
short, glossy, of a very deep green, and curled down- 
wards; the flowers very large, deeply cupped, apricot 
tinted, with a broad yellow band down the center of the 
petal. 

We cannot dismiss the Elegans and Auratum species 
without noticing the ease with which they are grown 
from seed. The tendency to variation in form and 
color, by cross-fertilization, has increased the number of 
varieties to an almost unlimited extent. This has offered 
the growers a fine opportunity to gratify a very natural 
desire to honor their friends by naming a flower to com- 
memorate their memories, no less than the gratification 
that comes from the production of a desirable form, 
which is to be known as the result of the labors of their 
own hands, guided by their knowledge and skill in gar- 
dening. However commendable this zeal may be, it is 
liable to be overdone, working a real injury to the ama- 
teur who does not detect sufficient variation in many 
forms to entitle them to distinctive varietal names. In 
those already noticed, the casual observer, or those who 
desire Lilies simply for display, would not sanction more 
than three or four distinct types, and he or they would 
very naturally think that these names were applied sim- 
ply for purposes of sale. In a measure, this is true; in 
reality, not ; an enthusiast will always see more to admire 
in any form, than an ordinary observer, and if the form 
is a creature of his own head and hands his vision is 
doubly active. On the other hand, the beginner will take 


wy 
r 
¥ 

\ 
3 


LILY. 211 


a highly recommended variety, and will, to his surprise, 
find it will answer the description given, at least, to a 
dozen other varieties of the same species ; for that reason 
we have omitted descriptions of very many desirable 
named sorts. 

L. excelsum (testacewm) (Lsabellinwm).—This is a 
superb Lily, with a mixed history and a variety of names. 
It has been generally supposed to be a hybrid between L. 
candidum and L. chalcedonicum. ‘There is but little evi- 
dence to support the theory, and it is said to have first 
been seen in a bed of seedlings in Erfurt, in 1846. Dr. 
Wallace says of it: ‘‘It has been thought not to have 
a Japanese origin, because no buibs of it have ever been 
traced as coming over from the Islands of the Western 
Sea, so productive of new and graceful forms; but we 
have seen, more than once, in Japanese drawings exe- 
cuted for us years ago, by some of the best artists in 
Yeddo [Tokio], of all the Lilies of Japan, forms rep- 
resented bearing a very strong resemblance to Excelsum. 
It is true that among these Lilies there are some most 
wonderful forms and gorgeous pieces of coloring, such 
as would lead many to disbelieve in the veracity of 
the artist; but, on the other hand, we can point to 
other Lily forms which we know well, depicted therein 
with fair accuracy, while the birds and insects portrayed 
in some numbers, we recognize to have been truthfully 
delineated. Our own conclusion is that, as yet, we have 
scarcely touched the rich treasure of wonderful Lilies 
which Japan will one day send to us.” Whatever may 
have been the origin of Excelsum, how, or where, or 
when it was born, makes but little difference, and does 
not alter the fact that in grace, form, color and fra- 
grance it has but few equals, and no superior, in this 
noble family of plants. It is, moreover, of easy culture, 
succeeding best in a loamy soil and in a partially shaded 
situation. It has often been asserted that this Lily had 


Eee 


212 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


a feeble constitution ; that noder the most favorable cir- 
cumstances it would soon die out. We are confident 
this is a mistake, and the oft-repeated failures with it 
have been the results of over-estimating its hardiness. 
Another cause of failure arises from planting bulbs that 
have been kept too long out of the ground ; in a dry state 
they lose vitality very quickly. The stems grow from 
three to five feet high, and produce from three to twelve 
beautifully reflexed flowers of a rich buff color, delicately 
spotted. In flowering, it follows soon after Candidum. 

L. eximium.—See L. longiflorum, Page 215. — 

L. fulgens.—A form of ZL. elegans, Page 208. 

L. giganteum.—This is a majestic plant, but like 
L. cordifolium, it should not be classed with garden 
Lilies, at least not in America. Its place is the 
greenhouse, where, with proper management, it is a 
grand plant. As many attempts are made to grow this 
plant, and usually without success, we quote Dr. Wal- 
lace, regarding its character. ‘‘A peculiarity of this 
species (and, we believe, of LZ. cordifolium also) is, that 
seedling bulbs or offsets grow on, increasing in size, till 
in a period of from three to five years a large bulb is 
formed, in the case of ZL. giganteum, from five to seven 
inches in length, and ten to fifteen inches in diameter ; 
hitherto the foliage has been broad and low growing ; 
but when the bulb has attained the size mentioned, it 
throws up in the spring a much thicker bud—by many 
likened to a young cabbage—whence a stout stem arises, 
sometimes six inches in diameter and from five to ten 
feet high, studded with numerous flowers, resembling 
somewhat the flowering spike of an Aloe, forming a 
striking and beautiful object. In the meanwhile the 
bulb, exhausted by the process, decays and disappears, 
leaving from three to five small offsets, which, in due 
course, increase in size, and, under favorable circum- 
stances, repeat the performance. We should not have 


ies 
es. 


LILY. 213 


said so much in regard to this Lily, but for the fact that 
it is quite as important to say what a plant will not do, 
as well as what it will do. 

L. Glehnii.—A variety of LZ. cordifolium, Page 
206, but little cultivated. 

L. Hansoni.—Named in honor of the late P. Han- 
son, of Brooklyn, N. Y., an enthusiastic bulb grower, 
by Max Leichtlin, one of the best authorities on Lilies. 
A well defined species growing from two to four feet 
high, foliage bright green, in whorls, producing from 
four to twelve dark yellow flowers, remarkable for the 
thickness of petal and wax-like appearance. It will 
thrive as luxuriantly as the common Tiger Lily, and is 
quite as hardy. It increases rather slowly, by offsets 
and division; flowers in June. In every collection of 
as many as twelve Lilies this should be included. 

L. Horsmanni.—A variety of L. elegans, Page 209. 

L. Humboldtii.—This is the most showy and 
graceful, and the most useful of all the species found on 
the Pacific coast. It adapts itself to our climate fairly 
well. Like most of the California species, it wants to 
grow during our winter, and rest during our summer; 
yet we have had it do well enough to warrant having it 
in a general collection. If the situation is favorable, 
such as partial shade and a deep, rich soil, it will grow six 
feet high, producing from thirty to forty flowers, bright 
orange-red, spotted with black. Disappointment will 
surely follow the growing of this Lily, unless it is thor- 
oughly protected against frost. There is but one vari- 
ety, Ocellatum, which is not as vigorous a grower as the 
species ; it has larger flowers, the spots of which are sur- 
rounded with a yellow circle; it is a distinct form, but 
little known. 

L. isabellinum.—A synonym of L. excelswm. 

L. jama-jure.—The Japanese name for L. Take- 
sima. 


—= —— 


214 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


L. japonicum.—A synonym for Z. Krameri. 

L. jocundum.—A synonym of L. pseudo-tigrinum. 

L. Kretzeri.—A variety of L. speciosum album. 

L. Krameri.—In habit this form resembles a 
small-growing L. auratum ; a more graceful or pleasing 
Lily is rarely met. It is a native of the mountains of 
Japan, although often referred to as a Japanese hybrid. 
It is a delicate, low-growing’ form, producing from one 
to five blush-white, varying to clear pink, flowers, some- 
what of the form of Auratum, and very fragrant. It 
will grow well in all dry soils, with ample protection 
against frost. 

L. lancifolium.—A synonym of JL. elegans, Page 
207, also of L. speciosum, Page 222. 

L. Ledebourii.—A variety of LZ. monadelphum. 

| L. Leichtlinii.—A most beautiful species, in habit 
resembling LZ. tigrinum, growing from three to five feet 
high, bearing from ten to thirty clear yellow, drooping 
flowers, with small black spots. It is a free grower, pro- 
duced rapidly from seed. It has a habit peculiar to 
itself, its shooting stem often running along a foot or 
more beneath the soil before making its appearance ; 
care should be taken in digging about the bed until the 
stems have had sufficient time to appear above ground. 

L. Leichtlinii majus.—Properly known as L. 
pseudo-tigrinum, Page 221. 

L. Lishmanni.—Included in L. tigrinum. 

L. longiflorum.—lIt is one of the most beautiful 
and valuable Lilies for the open border, as well as the 
one mostly employed for forcing. The typical form 
grows about two feet high, the stems being terminated 
with from one to eight long, tubular, waxy-white flow- 
ers, intensely fragrant. ‘There are several varieties of 
this Lily, one of which, eximiwm, for a few years, 
seemed to be the only one used for forcing by the florists. 
Many of the best growers have, of late, discarded it, and 


LILY. 215 


are again using the type for forcing for the cut flower 
trade. They find the flowers of the longiflorum have 
more substance than those of the exumiuwm (Bermuda 
Lily, See Page 189), and are not so liable to be injured 
in handling and carrying. Besides, the flowers are not 
so large, which, in many kinds of floral work, is a point 
in their favor. For methods of forcing, see Page 191. 
The varieties of L. longiflorum are as follows: 

Var. eximium.—This is characterized by its flowers 
appearing at right angles with the stem, by its larger 
and more numerous flowers, and by its earliness, coming 
into bloom about two weeks earlier than the type. This 
is the one known in the trade as the Bermuda Lily, and 
because of its many flowers, it was also sent out as L. 
floribundum. It is also called Easter Lily, Page i94. 

Var. Takesima.—This is a distinct variety, and 
may be readily distinguished by its purplish stems, and 
a violet tint on the outside of the flower, which shows 
very plainly in the unopened bud, but is not noticed 
after the flower is fully developed. 

Var. Wilsonii.—This is the grandest of all the 
varieties for the open border, or for a specimen plant in 
the greenhouse; it grows nearly four feet high, corres- 
pondingly strong, bearing from four to eight flowers, 
well opened, about nine inches in length. 

Var. Madame Von Siebold.—We have not seen 
this flower, but from descriptions, should regard it a 
synonym of L. /., var. Wilson. It is claimed, however, 
that there isa difference in the size and shape of the 
flower. 

L. lucidum.—A native of Oregon and Washington, 
introduced by Mr. Kellogg, It seems an intermediate 
form between L. superbum and L. canadense. We do 
not think there is more difference between them than 
the difference in climate would make, that when grown 
on the Atlantic coast a few years it would have all the 


216 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


characteristics of L. canadense, and that if the latter 
were grown in Oregon it would assume the form of L. 
lucidum. 

L. macrophyllum.—A species too little known to 
warrant a description, or to be recommended for culti- 
vation. Itis found in Cashmere. Said to be very beau- 
tiful and fragrant. 

L. Mad. Von. Siebold.—See L. longiflorwm (215). 

L. maritimum.—See L. canadense, Page 201. 

L. marmoratum.—sSee L. elegans, Page 209. 

L. Martagon (The Turk’s Cap Lily).—This old 
inhabitant of the garden is a plant we could do very well 
without. The type has no real beauty. It grows about 
three feet high, bearing numerous flowers of pleasing 
shape, but of a dull, lifeless color. See Page 176. 

Var. album.—A_ beautiful flower, pure white, 
small, but very graceful. See Page 176. 

Var. dalmaticum.—The grandest of the group, 
and having but few superiors in the genus. Under 
favorable circumstances it will grow six feet high, and 
yield an enormous number of beautifully reflexed flowers, 
of a shining blackish-purple. The home of all the 
Turk’s Cap Lilies is in England. At Wares’ nursery, 
Tottenham, we saw these Lilies growing so grandly that 
we scarcely recognized them, and supposed them to be 
new varieties. Our summers’ sun and winters’ cold do 
not agree with these forms, and to have them approach 
perfection they need a heavy mulching in winter, and a 
light one, with partial shade, in summer. 

Var. Cattaneze.—A synonym of Dalmaticum. 

Var. hirsutum.—This is a strong growing form 
with hairy stems. ; 

Var. glabrum.—A synonym of Martagon album. 

L. Maurii.—A variety of L. elegans, Page 209. 

L. Maximowiczii.—A synonym of ZL. pseudo- 
tigrinum, Page 221, 


TEL. 217 


L. medeoloides.—A Japanese form, with the habit 
of L. concolor and L. pulchellum. Itis a very difficult 
subject to manage from imported bulbs, which are so 
small, and with such delicate, thin scales, that they 
easily perish. A good stock can only be procured in 
this country by growing them from seeds. 

L. Melpomene.—A seedling form from JZ. spect- 
osum rubrum, to which it is referred. 

L. Michauxii.—A synonym of L. carolintanum. 

L. monadelphum.—tThis truly magnificent Lily 
has had a difficult time in establishing its name. From 
time to time it has appeared under several names, and 
various varieties have appeared under its name. The 
chief difference in the varieties being, that some are 
spotted, others plain, and that some have larger flowers 
than the type. These variations will be noticed in the 
varieties. In the open border the Monadelphum grows 
from two to three feet high, with a terminal cluster of 
from six to twenty turban-shaped flowers, ranging in 
color from a rich canary-yellow to a pale lemon-yellow. 
This Lily and its varieties are of Asiatic origin; all suc- 
ceed well in rich soil, in partial shade, where water does 
_notstand. It may be well to state here, that our descrip- 
tion of forms is as they are grown and appear in America; 
that the same forms described in other countries are 
from the standpoint of their appearance there, and the 
differences between the two are very great. In the open 
border the English-grown Lilies far surpass ours, as we 
usually grow them, while our greenhouse specimens far 
surpass theirs. So much for climatic influences. The 
following are the varieties of Monadelphum : 

Vars. colchicum, Szovitsianum, Loddigesia- 
num.—These are strictly synonyms, rather than varie- 
ties, neither having any distinctive character not pos- 
sessed by the others, that the difference in culture and 
situation will produce any variation noticeable in form 


\/ 


218 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


or color. In any ordinary collection any one of the yari- 
eties will satisfactorily represent tbe species. 

Var. Ledebourii.—A more dwarf growing variety, 
noticed by Dr. Wallace; but very little is known of the 
plant. 

L. neilgherrense.—This magnificent Lily is a 
native of India, and is called, by Mr. Fish, an Indian 
example of L. longiflorum. He says, ‘‘It is a native of 
the higher altitudes of the Neilgherries, about eight 
thousand feet above the sea level. The stem is stout 
and strong, rising in height from two to three feet; the 
leaves are more numerous, and broader than in ZL. elegans 
(lancifolium). The flowers average from five to seven on 
a plant, measuring from eight to twelve inches in length, 
are deliciously fragrant, the prevailing color being white, 
tinged with primrose.” This form is but very little 
known in this country. 

L. nepalense.—A name not unfrequently noticed 
in foreign catalogues, but a plant not known to be grown 
in Europe. A native of the Himalayas. 

L. odorum.—This noble form is figured, and de- 
scribed by Mrs. Bury in ‘‘ Hexandrian Plants,” under 
the name of LZ. japonicum, as follows: ‘‘L. japonicum 
is a larger, and may, perhaps, be designated a coarser, 
plant, than L. candidum or L. longifiorum, to both of 
which it is nearly allied. ‘The purple markings on the 
back, together with the tinge of Limeric-tan color dif- 
fused through the petals, especially on their first expan- — 
sion, give a charming richness of appearance, which is 
enhanced by the deep shade of the firm hollow bells, and 
massive looking pistils and stamens.” If Mrs. Bury’s 
illustration is accurate, and her book is high authority, 
this species is identical with LZ. Colchestert. Certainly 
the difference between it and Z. Brownit is but slight. 

L. pallidifolium.—A variety of LZ. pardalinum. 

L. pardalinum (The Panther Lily).—The most 
showy and useful of the Lilies from California, and one 


ETE: 219 


of the few that adapts itself to the Atlantic climate, and 
thrives with all the luxuriance of a native plant. It 
grows from four to six feet high, bearing from four to 
ten drooping flowers, of a brilliant orange-red color, not 
unlike some of the brighter forms of Superbum. We 
note the following varieties : 

Var. Bourgei.—The strongest growing and best 
of its class. It attains a height of seven feet, and gives 
from twenty to thirty flowers, which appear about two 
weeks later than the species; in form and color there is 
not a marked difference between the two. They are 
alike easy of culture. 

Var. pallidifolium.—aA small-growing form, with 
lighter colored flowers. 


Var. Robinsoni.—Has the same general habit as 


Bourgei; foliage more full and heavy, flowers bright 
vermilion, shading to yellow in the center, and thickly 
spotted. 

Var. californicum.—Identical with the type when 
grown under the same circumstances. 

L. pardinum.—A synonym of ZL. Wilsoni, of 
group *‘C,” in Elegans, Page 210, to which it belongs. 

L. Parryi.—This is decidedly the foremost of the 
Californian Lilies when placed in congenial soil and cli- 
mate. We have grown this Lily largely and with much 
satisfaction, but we are free to admit that we knew noth- 
ing of its beauty and capabilities until we saw it at 
Ware’s nursery, Tottenham, England. There it was in 
perfection, growing fully five feet high, bearing several 
flowers of immense size, fully as large as Longiflorum, 
and of the most beautiful form and color, a rich canary- 
yellow, finely spotted. In fact, we did not know the 
Lily when shown to us, with a request for our opinion. 
Fortunately, the label saved us from showing our ignor- 
ance, if it did not our surprise. Then, more than ever, 
we wanted to say to every one in America, ‘‘if you want 


220 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


Lilies that will honor the name, keep the frost away 
from them.” 

L. Partheneion. — A variety of JL. concolor, 
Page 206. : 

L. parvum.—A variety of L. canadense, Page 202. 

L. peregrinum.—A variety of L. candidum, 
Page 205. 

L. philadelphicum.—A species common to the 
Northeastern States, growing from one to one and one- 
half feet high, bearing from one to three upright flowers, 
orange-red spotted with black. This species is quite indif- 
ferent to cultivation, and does not thrive as well as when 
in its native woods and fields. It contrasts well with 
the grass and native wood plants, but poorly in the gar- 
den surrounded with higher floral forms. 

Var. Wausharaicum.—Rather a stronger form, 
with brighter colors, owing, probably, to more favorable 
natural conditions. 

Var. grandiflorum.—Sent out by some dealers, 
and said to be much larger and more floriferous, growing 
from four to five feet high, producing from six to ten 
flowers in an umbel, of an intense vermilion-red. 

L. phillippinense.—A species but little known, 
described as growing about two feet high, and bearing a 
solitary flower remarkable for its sweetness. ; trumpet- 
shaped, white; stem and foliage very light. Not in 
cultivation. 

L. polyphyllum.—A Himalayan species, growing — 
from two to four feet high, and having large turban- 
shaped flowers of a waxy-white color, copiously spotted 
and lined with purple. Not in general cultivation. 

L. pomponium.—Another species about which 
there is no little confusion in regard to description. In 
fact, there are two distinct forms bearing the same name. 
William Robinson, of the Garden, has cleared away 
much of the mist that has enclouded its reputation, as 


, page 


Hn Opes 221 


follows: ‘‘This lovely Lily must not be confounded 
with the L. pomponiwm, usually sold as such; this latter 
being simply the red variety of L. pyrenaicum. L. pom- 
ponium is elegant in growth, possesses a vigorous con- 
stitution, and blooms earlier than the numerous varieties 
of L. chalcedonicum and L. pyrenaicum, to which it is 
related. It grows about three feet in height, is of erect 
habit, and has long linear leaves. The flowers are pro- 
duced in a lax raceme, one foot through, and a weli 
established plant will bear as many as twenty flowers. 
It is a native of the Maritime Alps.” The variety, py- 
renaicum, is a similar, but smaller plant, with small 
yellow flowers. A native of the Pyrenees, as its name 
would imply. The variety, albanum, is an Iberian form, 
like the yellow pyrenaicum, but with a little larger leaves, 
and pollen of a different color; the odor is sweet, like 
that of honey, whereas the savor of the garden form is 
rather nauseous. All the varieties are easily grown in 
the open border, increasing quite rapidly. 

L. ponticum.—See L. M. Szovitsianwm, Page 217. 

L. Prince of Orange.—A variety of L. elegans, 
Page 208. 

L. pseudo-tigrinum.—This form has had some 
little difficulty in keeping a name, having been sold as 
L. Fortunet, and later, in fact, now, as L. Maximowiczit. 
It is, in every respect excepting color, identical with 
L. Leichtlinui, growing from four to five feet high, bear- 
ing from six to twelve light red flowers, with numerous 
small black spots. It is variable in the form, as well as 
in the color of its flowers; some of the stems are quite 
downy, others smooth. The color of the flowers seems 
to be somewhat governed by the character of the soil in 
which it grows. It is propagated readily from seed, as 
well as by offsets. A peculiar feature of this Lily is the 
length of time it continues in bloom, a strong plant 
remaining in flower for upwards of four weeks. 


aS eee 


222 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


L. puberulum.—A synonym of Pallidifolium, a 
variety of L. pardalinum, Page 218. 

L. pulchellum.—A variety of L. concolor, Page 206. 

L. pumilum.—A synonym of JL. callosum, Page 
201. 

L. punctatum.—A variety of several species, but . 
best known as belonging to L. speciosum, to which it is 
referred. 

L. puniceum.—A synonym of L. tenuifolium. 

L. pyrenaicum.—See L. pomponium, Page 221. 

L. Robinsonianum.—A variety of LZ. pardalinum, 
Page 218. 

L. Roezlii.—A synonym of Angustifolium, a vari- 
ety of pardalinum, Page 218. 

L. sinicum.—See under Concolor, Page 206. 

L. speciosum.—dAs a whole, this species of Lilies 
far surpasses any other species of herbaceous plants, for 
the garden, or for the greenhouse. Among Lilies there 
are none to compare, excepting L. candidum, which has 
no peer. By common consent, Speciosum was regarded 
the species; all other forms were varieties. This mat- 
ters not, so long as it is so understood, that we do not 
get the varieties mixed. So in our descriptions we shall 
consider Speciosum a type, notwithstanding the fact 
that, when introduced by Dr. Siebold, it referred to 
what is now considered L. s. rubrum. 

The extreme beauty of the Speciosum species has 
tempted the growers to multiply varieties to an almost 
unlimited extent ; far beyond the limit of reason, to say 
the least, as names have been given plants for differences 
that exist only in the imagination. One dealer lists 
thirty-four varieties, four times as many as the most 
enthusiastic admirer could find, uninfluenced by the 
hope of gain. We shall note such varieties as have some 
individual features that commend them to the reader, 
in whose interest this book is written. 


220 


SPECIOSUM LILY. 


LILIUM SPECIOSUM RUBRUM. 


Supe BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


Var. rubrum.—This was the first introduction, 
and was figured in Pazton’s Magazine of Botany for 
January, 1838, and described, in part, as follows: ‘A 
most magnificent species of Lily; ‘not only handsome’ 
(as Dr. Lindley observed, in the Botanical Register, 
Page 2,000) beyond all we before knew in gardens 
(among Lilies), on account of the clear, deep rose-color 
of its flowers, which seem all rugged with rubies and 
garnets, and sparkling with crystal points, but it has 
the sweet fragrance of the Petunia.” Much confusion 
exists In regard to the variety names, some dealers call- 
ing it Rubrum, others Roseum, many sending it out 
under both names. Having grown many thousands of 
the supposed different varieties, we have never been 
able to note sufficient difference in color to warrant the 
two names. It is true, that in a bed of either, one will 
find some darker, some lighter, the cause of which seems 
to us to be, that it is a seedling and intermediate between 
Purpuratum and Punctatum. As the former is truly 
represented by the colored illustration in Pazton’s Mag- 
azine of Botany, and the one we designate as true 
Rubrum, while the latter is also figured in the same vol- 
ume, and is as perfect an illustration of the flower as it is 
possible for the lithographic art to produce, and it is there 
called Roseum (synonym Punctatum). Therefore the 
variety sold as Purpuratum might, with propriety, be 
called Rubrum. Punctatum was, from its introduction, 
called Roseum. Seedlings from these varieties would 
very naturally produce, not only the two varieties under 
consideration, but many others that have been honored 
with varietal names. See Engraving, Page 225. 

Var. roseum (syn. punctatum).—Paxton describes 
this as follows: ‘‘In the exquisite loveliness of its flow- 
ers, their superior size, and the stronger and more robust 
habits of the plant, this charming variety almost outvies 
the splendid species (Z. speciosum). The dazzling bril- 


SPECIOSUM LILY. 225 


liancy of hue for which the species just mentioned is so 
deservedly admired, alone maintains its ascendency, for 
in every other respect our present subject is decidedly 
unequalled.” This certainly described Punctatum as we 
have it, and as it was first called Roseum, we can see no 
reason for its later appellation. 

Var. album.—This is a pure white form; except- 
ing in color, it is well described in var. rubrum. 

Var. preecox.—This differs from the above, in hay- 
ing its pure white petals slightly tinged with pink, in 
being a stronger grower, producing, when’ well estab- 
lished, twelve to fifteen flowers on a single stem; the 
petals are regular and much reflexed, often clasping the 
stem ; in the center of the flower the petals are studded 
with delicate little projections, like crystal points. Of 
it there seem to be several so-called varieties. One has 
yellow anthers instead of brown; in other respects they 
are identical. Seedlings from this or the foregoing 
white form are as numerous as are those of the spotted 
varieties, which makes the nomenclature of this group 

decidedly uncertain. 
. Var. vestale.—A synonym of var. album. - 

Var. punctatum.—A synonym of var. rosewm. 

Var. macranthum.—A synonym of var. rubrum. 

Var. melpomene.—A seedling variety raised by the 
late C. M. Hovey, of Boston. It is somewhat darker 
than true Rubrum, but by no means an improvement on 
the type. Mr. Hovey was quite successful in growing 
the L. speciosum from seed, and at one time had, of his 
own production, varieties named for each of the Muses; 
but with the exception of Melpomene, none are in 
existence. 

Vars. monstrosum, of Album, Rubrum and Punc- 
tatum, are simply fasciated forms, unworthy a place in 
the garden, excepting for the curiosity there is in mon- 
strosities. There is an interesting feature in these fas- 

15 


226 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


ciated forms worthy of notice. We find, in good rich 
soil, and with good cultivation, these forms invariably 
revert back to the type after one or two years. 

Var. corymbiflorum.—A synonym for the varie- 
ties of Monstrosum. ‘These varieties include all that 
have any distinctive traits; other varieties listed in cata- 
logues present only such differences as may be seen 
with any of the varieties, when grown under different 
conditions. | 

L. spectabile.—A synonym of ZL. Catesber, 
Page 204. . 

L. splendens.—A variety of ZL. elegans, Page 209. 

L. stenophyllum.— A. variety of ZL. callosum, 
Page 201. } 

L.superbum.—Our common Swamp Lily; were 
it not common it would receive the attention it so 
richly deserves. In its native habitat, we have known a 
specimen ten feet high with sixty-three flowers. As a 
rule, it grows from four to six feet high, with from four 
to twelve flowers. It is a splendid plant to grow among 
shrubbery. In such situations the ground should be 
mulched heavily to keep it moist, and clumps from six 
to eight feet high, bearing an immense number of orange- 
red flowers tipped with bright crimson, will be the re- 
sult. These noble plants, lifting themselves far above 
the Rhododendrons and Azaleas, have a majestic appear- 
ance. The variety carolinianum is described as an inter- 
mediate form between Superbum and Canadense; it is 
but little known. We do not think that any of our 
native Lilies, as cultivated, are very well known in other 
countries, judging from the following, which we take 
from Dr. Wallace’s notes on Lilies. In speaking of the 
Superbum, he says: ‘‘A very valuable, late, graceful 
Lily, in growth so like Canadense, that it is difficult to 
distinguish them, except by means of the immature 
flower buds, which are rounded in Superbum, but trian- 


BIEN: 227 


eular in Canadense. Properly an eastern (indigenous 
American) form, but stretching westward, and _ inter- 
mingling with the western varieties, so that 1t becomes 
difficult to separate the intermediate forms.” In the 
cultivated forms there is as wide a difference between 
these two species as there is between either of them and 
the Martagons. The Superbum grows twice as high, 
has double the number of flowers, which have their 
petals so much reflexed that they clasp the stems, while 
those of the Canadense are always bell-shaped, and the 
buds of the former are quite as angular as are those of 
the latter. 

L. Szovitszianum.—A synonym of L. monadel- 
phum, Page 2l7%. 

L. Takesima.—A yariety of L. longiflorum, 
Page 215. 

L. tenuifolium.—tThe earliest of all our garden 
Lilies, and one of the most desirable, because of its bril- 
lant scarlet flowers, produced in a raceme of from one 
_ to twenty, on very slender stems, which -are beautifully 
clothed with grass-like foliage. A native of Siberia, 
where it is largely grown as an article of food. It is 
quite tender, and needs a dry soil and protection against 
frost; see Page 175. It is rapidly increased from seed. 

L. testaceum.—A synonym of JL. excelsum, 
Page 211. 

L. Thompsonianum.—This is now classed with 
the Fritillarias, Page 92. 

L. Thunbergianum.—A synonym of L. elegans, 
Page 207. 

L. tigrinum (Tiger Lily).—This is one of our 
earliest contributions from China, having been intro- 
duced with Longiflorum in 1804. It is, when well 
grown, one of the most noble and showy of all the spe- 
cies, and well worthy a place in every collection. The 
type grows about four feet high, and, in good soil, will 


228 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


produce from ten to fifteen bright scarlet flowers, with 
numerous small black spots. Notwithstanding its stately 
form and gorgeous display, it is classed with weedy plants, 
because of its rapid increase and ease of cultivation ; 
whereas, in gardens of any considerable extent, it should 
have a prominent place and be confined to it. 

Var. flore pleno (Double Flowering Tigrinum).— 
A magnificent plant, reaching a height of six feet, with 
a diameter of more than three feet, bearing, in a season, 
more than sixty flowers; continuing in bloom more 

~than six weeks. 

Var. splendens.—1n a rich soil and partially shaded 
situation, will grow to the height of six feet, producing 
an immense number of flowers in a pyramidal cluster. 

Var. Maximowiczii.—Sometimes sold under the 
name of L. Hortwnet, and is often called a variety of L. 
Leichtlinii, Page 214; flowers a light orange-red, with 
smali black dots. This differs from the species in not 
having axillary bulblets. It is a very showy plant, flow- 
ering in August, and is increased rapidly from seed. 
All the varieties of Tigrinum, excepting this, are rapidly 
increased from the axillary bulbs, which should be 
planted as soon as they drop; they make bulbs that 
flower the second year. 

L. umbellatum.—A synonym of L. bulbiferum, 
Page 201. 

L. Van Houttei.—A variety of JL. elegans. 

L. venustum.—A variety of Z. elegans, Page 207. 

L. Wallacei.—A very showy lily, but whether a 
distinct species or a garden hybrid is a question not yet 
decided. It is of easy culture, increasing rapidly, and 
flowering most profusely.. In form it is intermediate 
between Maximowiczii and Concolor. The flowers are 
vermilion-orange, spotted at the base and center with 
numerous slightly raised small maroon spots; it is one 
of the latest flowering sorts. 


i PD 


LILY. 229 


L. Wallichianum.—A native of the Himalayas, 
in form and color closely resembling Longiflorum ; the 
flowers are not as regular in form, nor of as much sub- 
stance; neither is it nearly as hardy, and can only be 
successfully grown in the greenhouse. 

L. Wausharicum.—A variety of Philadelphicum, 
Page 220. 

L. Washingtonianum.—One of the native Amer- 
ican species growing freely in the Californian woods; 
the flowers are white tinged with purple, produced in 
clusters on stems from two to five feet high. ‘This spe- 
cies is a very difficult one to manage in the Atlantic 
states; it does not at all conform to the change of sea- 
sons, and strives to grow and flower during the same 
months as it does in its native home. With thorough 
protection we have had it do fairly well, but in the At- 
lantic States it will succeed well only when grown under 
glass, for which purposes there are many more desirable 
kinds. The variety purpurewm is a lower growing 
form, seldom reaching two feet in height, with violet or 
nearly white flowers, borne in erect umbels. There is 
the same difficulty in growing the variety as with the 
species. 

Lilies for the Garden.—We are often asked what 
varieties will give the best satisfaction planted in the 
open border. We reply by giving the following selec- 
tion, and should take them in the order named: 1 Can- 
didum, 2 Speciosum Rubrum, 3 Speciosum Preecox, 4 
Excelsum, 5 Brownii, 6 Hansonii, 7 Tenuifolium, 8 Ele- 
gans—var. Alice Wilson, 9 Leichtlinii, 10 Speciosum 
Roseum (Punctatum), 11 Longiflorum Eximium, 12 Au- 
ratum, 13 Tigrinum Flore Pleno, 14 Martagon Dalmati- 
cum, 15 Pseudo-Tigrinum, 16 Monadelphum, 17 Su- 
perbum, 18 Tigrinum Splendens, 19 Elegans Bicolor, 
20 Coridion, 21 Pardalinum, 22 Batemanniex, 23 Cana- 
dense, 24 Concolor Sinicum, 25 Wallacei. Few persons 


230 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


will care to have so large a number of sorts, and those 
who wish a limited number will be pleased by commenc- 
ing with Number 1, and continuing down the list until 
their desires are satisfied. The first three, six or twelve 
will give sufficient variety and contrast for small, or 
for moderately large gardens. 


LILY OF THE VALLEY. 
See Convallaria, Page 61. 
LOCHIERA. 
A section of the genus Achimenes, Page 1. 
LYCORIS. 


A small genus of greenhouse bulbs allied to Nerine 
and Griffinia, natives of Eastern Asia. The name of 
Lycoris is that of a Roman actress, celebrated for her 
extravagance and her beauty. The flowers of some of 
the species are very beautiful, and remarkable for their 
rich golden color. They bloom in autumn, the flowers 
preceding the foliage, as do those of Amaryllis Bella- 
donna, Page 12. After flowering, the plants should 
have every encouragement for growth of foliage, as it is 
upon this that the flowering of another season depends. 
After the leaves have perfected their growth, dry the 
bulbs off, and during their period of rest they must 
remain in the pots dry and warm. 

L. aurea (Golden Lily).—The most beautiful of 
the species, having bright yellow flowers, in August. 

L. radiata.—Has dingy crimson flowers, in July. 

L. staminea.—Has striped flowers, in June. 


MARIPOSA LILY. 
See Calochortus, Page 49. 
MASSONTA. 


A small genus of Cape bulbs allied to Eriospermum. 
They are of little value. 


MELANTHIUM—MERENDERA—MILLA. 2al 


MEADOW SAFFRON. 
See Colchicum, Page 59. 
MELANTHIUM. 


A small genus of early spring flowering bulbs, some- 
what resembling the Ixias, Page 166, and requiring the 
same general treatment, being natives of the Cape of 
Good Hope. 

M. junceum (The Rush-leaved Melanthium).— 
This is a very beautiful little Cape plant, with flowers 
like a small Ixia. The flowers are stained within with 
dark crimson spots, nearly black, and hence the name of 
the genus, which signifies black flowers. The propaga- 
tion is by offsets. 

M. uniflorum.—This has but one flower, as its 
name implies. Neither of the species are worth 
cultivating. 

MERENDERA. 


The best known species, M/. caucasica,is a pretty 
little plant, differing from the Colchicums, Page 59, by 
the leaves and flowers appearing at the same time, and 
should be treated in the same manner. 


MILLA. 


This is a much abused bulb. Having been included 
in the genus Zriteleia, where it does not belong, and the 
specific name, biflora (two-flowered), entirely misrepre- 
senting its character. It has, moreover, been repre- 
sented as difficult to manage, when, in fact, it can be 


' grown as easily, and more satisfactorily, than almost 


any of our summer-flowering bulbs. Our experience 
with the Milla has been as follows: When it was first 
sent here from Mexico we procured a large quantity of 
the bulbs, which were about the size of small crocus 
corms, or even smaller; these grew rapidly, and we soon 
saw that the name Ozflora did not belong to a plant pro- 


2o2 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


ducing four flowers on a single scape, nor to a bulb that 
produced two or more scapes, as most of these bulbs did. 
Soon after the first hard frost the bulbs were taken up 
and put about two inches deep in ordinary flats, which 
were placed in racks in the Gladiolus room. ‘There they 


remained until the following spring. ‘To our surprise, 


ae aN SS . 
, 


aN ani 


MILLA. 


the crocus-sized bulbs we had planted were, when taken 
up, as large as good-sized Gladiolus corms, or about two 
inches in diameter. 'These were planted at the same 
time as the Gladiolus, and in the same manner, early in 
May. They commenced to bloom early in July, and 


om 


MILLA—MONTBRETIA. 7 


notwithstanding the excessive drouth of that season, the 
plants were in constant bloom until killed by frost late 
in October. The larger bulbs threw up ten flower stalks 
each, and in many instances there were eight flowers on 
a single scape or stalk, and not infrequently three were 
open at a time. We do not know a more satisfactory 
bulb than this, as it is constantly in flower for more 
than three months in the summer, with as little trouble 
as the Gladiolus, and delights in dry, sunny weather, 
which, in our climate, it can usually have in abundance. 
It increases rapidly by offsets, or from seed, the bulbs 
from which will flower the second year. 

M. biflora.—The only species; flowers pure white, 
star-shaped, with a greenish-white tube three to five 
inches in length. Jor the best effect in the garden, the 
bulbs should be planted alternately with the Bessera 
elegans (Page 42), about four inches apart each way; 
the effect produced by the contrast of color, scarlet and 
white, is most charming. The two plants possess the 
same graceful habit of growth, and are uniform in 
height. See engraving of flowers on Page 2382. 


MISSOURI HYACINTH. 
A synonym of Camassia Frasert, Page 52. 
MONTBRETIA. 


Tritonia. 


A small genus of Iridaceous plants from the Cape 
of Good Hope, most of which are half-hardy, and require 
the same treatment as other summer flowering bulbs. 
The genus is closely allied to the Ixia (Page 166), and is 
now generally included with the Tritonia. 

M. Pottsii (Properly Zritonia Pottsii).—The best 
of the species, somewhat resembling the Gladiolus, and 
perfectly hardy. The flowers are borne in spikes from 
six to nine inches long; they are bright yellow, streaked 
on the outside with brick-red. 


BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


\} \- 
ap 


POTTS’ MONTBRETIA OR TRITONIA, 


MOR A—MUSCARI, 235 


The name Montbretia would hardly be retained but 
for the hybrid form, Montbretia crocosmifiora, a cross 
between M. Pottsii and Crocosmia aurea, a very showy 
and free-flowering plant that succeeds admirably in the 
garden, producing its long, many-flowered panicles of 
orange-scarlet flowers from July until killed by frost. 
While this is a desirable plant for the open garden, its 
usefulness stops there. The flowers quickly fade if used 
in a vase, and the buds do not open. But as a garden 
ornament it is exceedingly valuable. While this is 
classed with the hardy bulbs, it does not belong there ; 
it should be taken up and kept in dry sand, free from 
frost, during winter. It increases rapidly from offsets. 


MORAAA. 


This genus was formerly included with the Iris, the 
flowers of which bear a close resemblance; they are very 
beautiful, but of short duration and little substance. 
All the species are tender, but succeed well when crown 
in pots, ina light sandy loam. They thrive with ordi- 
nary greenhouse culture, but the plants require frequent 
syringing to keep them free from red spider. They 
flower from April to July, according to species, after 
which, when the leaves wither and dry down, they 
should remain dry and warm until the following Febru- 
ary, when they should be re-potted and started into 
growth again. Viesseuxia and the Peacock Iris, M. 
pavonia (iridoides), Page 161, are now included in this 
genus. IM. Sisyrinchium is the only species that is worth 
the room required in the greenhouse to grow them. This 
is a native of Spain; the flower is very handsome, deep 
blue, white and yellow. 


MUSCARI. 


This is a large genus of perfectly hardy bulbs, with 
a great variety of popular names, such as Musk, Grape, 


236 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


and Feathered Hyacinth. ‘They grow freely anywhere. 
Some of the species have escaped from the gardens and 
have become naturalized, and grow with all the vigor of 
native plants. All they require is to be once planted ; 
they will then take care of themselves, and increase rap- 
idly. The more valuable of the species are: 

M. botryoides (Grape Hyacinth). This is the 
most commonly grown and finest of the species. The 
flower-spikes are from two to three inches in length, 
resembling a bunch of grapes, colors pure white and 
dark blue; they have a peculiar fragrance, which has 
given the species the popular name of ‘‘ Baby’s Breath.” 

M. comosum (Tufted Hyacinth).—A very showy 
species. 

M.c. monstrosum (The Feathered Hyacinth).— 
It is also known by the trade as Muscari plumosus 
monstrosum. 

M. moschatum.—This, the common Musk Hya- 
cinth, receives its name by the strong smell of musk 
which the flowers possess. ‘The flowers are purple when 
they first expand, but gradually become yellowish. It 
is a native of Turkey. 

There are a great number of species and varieties, 
but those noticed well represent the genus. They are 
easily grown and rapidly increase by offsets. 


NARCISSUS. 
Daffodil. 


The florists who have made the Narcissus a hobby, 
have driven farther and faster for varieties than any 
other of the many specialists in the floral race. Their 
classifications and distinctions are simply bewildering, 
and the number of varieties, each claiming some marked 
difference or peculiarity in form or shade of color, is 
astounding. We shall not attempt to follow them, we 
dare not even approach them, as there has been more 


NARCISSUS. 237 


GROUP OF NARCISSUS, 


238 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


than enough written on the Narcissus to fill more pages 
than are contained in this entire work. 

There are three distinct classes of Narcissus, the 
old and well known Daffodils, both single and double 
forms; the white-flowered or Poet’s Narcissus, and the 
Tazetta, or Polyanthus Narcissus. The first two classes 
are perfectly hardy, and will thrive in almost any soil or 
situation. In the open border they should be planted in 
quantity, especially in those spots where they appear 
naturally at home, such as under the shade of trees, and 
in the shrubbery borders, where many other plants 
refuse to bloom. The newly awakened interest in the 
many forms of single and double Daffodils is almost as 
lively as when the poets sang so loud their praises. 
This interest is well deserved, as they certainly are most 
effective and desirable border flowers. All the species 
and varieties of Narcissus should be grown in clumps 
and patches in every suitable vacant spot, and there is 
not a spot where grass will grow in which the Narcissus 
will not thrive. 

Under fences and beside hedges, or in any out-of- 
the way place, large quantities of the more free-growing 
sorts, especially WV. poeticus, should be planted for a 
supply of early cut flowers, and a portion should be in 
sunny, and a portion in shaded places, to prolong the 
season of flowering. Their graceful appearance renders 
them peculiarly valuable for this purpose, and, if cut 
when partially opened, they will develop in water, and 
last for many days. In planting, be guided by the size 
of the bulb, allowing four to five inches between small 
sorts, and from six to eight inches between the large 
varieties. At this distance apart the bulbs will soon 
completely fill the spaces forming a compact mass, and 
it is then their flowers are produced the most freely. In 
fact, they do not make an effective mass of bloom until 
the bulbs are crowded, ‘This is one of the good features 


NARCISSUS. 239 


in growing the Narcissus, that when a planting is once 
made, no further attention is necessary, as they will pro- 
tect themselves against all encroachment. Quack grass 
even has to give way to them, and in spite of it there 
will be an annual improvement in the quantity and 
quality of bloom. 

The third class, having WV. Tazetta as the type, and 
including the species and varieties usually employed for 
forcing by the florists, cannot be treated so carelessly ; 
it demands greater attention, and is not, by any 
means, hardy. The bulbs should be planted, at least, 
five inches deep, and be protected against frost. In a 
changeable climate, where there is alternate freezing and 
thawing, these bulbs will not succeed unless ample pro- 
tection is afforded. They are desirable for pot culture, 
for the window garden, and should be potted as early as 
possible after they arrive from HKurope. The Double 
Roman and Paper White naturally come into bloom in 
advance of the other sorts, and should be selected for 
early display. Pot them rather firmly in a rich, porous 
soil, but not so firmly as to render it impossible for the 
roots to penetrate, or they will raise the bulbs out of the 
soil. Place the bulbs in a cool spot, and cover them 
with coal ashes or any other material, to keep the bulbs 
in their places, and to prevent the foliage from starting 
prematurely. When'top growth commences, which will 
be by the first of December, the pots can be given their 
position in the window-garden or conservatory. <A suc- 
cession can be kept up until flowers appear in the open 
border, by bringing the pots in at intervals. If a little 
bottom heat is given the plants as soon as the buds ap- 
pear, it will hasten their flowering, but those who have 
not the necessary appliances will not be the losers, as 
the flowers will be better without artificial aid. 

The Tazetta class of Narcissus can also be grown in 
glasses in water, in the same manner recommended for 


240 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


Hyacinths (Page 149), and there are no bulbs that sur- 
pass Narcissus with this method of culture. The Chi- 
nese Sacred Lily, or Narcissus, which is one of the J. 
Tazetta group, is readily and perfectly grown in this man- 
ner; but a more pleasing way is to place the bulbs in an 
earthen dish, on about half an inch of gravel, and cover 
them half way up with white gravel. Place them in full 
sunlight and they will bloom perfectly. 

Before placing the bulbs in the gravel, the Chinese 
cut away the hard skin on the top of the bulb, which 
greatly facilitates growth ; in cutting, do not injure the 
leaf growth, and only cut about an eighth of an inch in 
depth. ‘The Chinese also cut the bulb longitudinally 
in four places, as though they were to quarter the bulb, 
but only cut to the depth of one-quarter of an inch. 
How this benefits the bulb we cannot say, but it is their 
method, and we have followed it with great success. 

Forcing the Narcissus for Cut Flowers.— 
These bulbs are now forced in immense quantities by 
the florists, and the method employed is to plant the 
bulbs in shallow boxes, ordinary flats, filled with com- 
mon potting soil; the bulbs are placed three to four 
inches apart, and covered level with their upper surfaces. 
They are then placed in a cool, dark shed, until they 
have made good root-growth, which will be by the first 
of November, if they have been put away early in Sep- 
tember, as they should be. The boxes are then brought 
into the greenhouse as required, and given a moderate 
heat and all the light possible. Flowers will be ready 
for cutting in six weeks after the bulbs have been brought 
forward. A succession can be kept up, according to the 
demands of the trade. | 

Many of the single Daffodils are available for forc- 
ing. The best are Trumpet Major, yellow; Trumpet 
Major, yellow and white; Obvallaris (Tenby Daffodil), 
rich yellow; and Poeticus Ornatus, white with crimson 


- 
‘ 


a 


NARCISSUS. 


TYPE OF HOOP-PETTICOAT NARCISSUS. 
16 


241 


= 


242 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


eye. Of the double varieties, Incomparable, yellow and 
orange; Pseudo-N. Plenus, or Lent Lily, yellow and 
white; and Von Sion, all yellow; Alba-Plena Odorata, a 
fine double white, is also used. The hybrid varieties are 
very fine, but too expensive for general cultivation. 

As the varieties are so numerous we cannot attempt 
their description, but will briefly refer to the species. 

N. Bulbocodium (Common Hoop-Petticoat Nar- 
cissus).—This has so long occupied a place in the garden 
that a description is quite unnecessary. It is a native of 
the Pyrenees, and is perfectly hardy. See Page 241. 

N. gracilis (Yellow Rush-Leaved Narcissus).—This 
differs from other of the rush-leaved sorts, in having 
flowers similar in shape to those of NW. poeticus, but of 
a soft sulphur-yellow color, and in having but two or 
three on a stalk. This has so long been an inhabitant 
of the garden that its origin is unknown. ‘There are 
several varieties, one of which is popularly known as the 
Silver Jonquil. 

N. incomparabilis (Peerless Daffodil) (Butter 
and Kggs).—There are a large number of varieties and 
sub-varieties of this species, all hardy, showy, and well 
adapted for woods or shaded places. It can be natural- 
ized anywhere, making very effective clumps in early 
spring. See Page 288. 

N. Jonquilla (Jonquil).—This is a native of Spain, 
and an old garden favorite, because of its fragrance and 
hardiness, together with its elegant form and profusion 
of golden yellow flowers. There is a double form with 
the same general habit, which is not common in our gar- 
dens, and is liable to die out unless planted in dry soils, 
because water, in winter, is destructive to it. 

N. juncifolius (Rush-Leaved Daffodil).—One of 
the smallest and sweetest of the species. It is very 
dwarf, and admirably adapted for rock-work. The flow- 
ers are produced quite early in spring; therefore they 


oa 
—_ 
ee 


NARCISSUS. 243 


should have a warm and protected situation, as, in this 
climate, we frequently have freezing weather after they 
come into bloom. It is a native of the Pyrenees. 

N. odorus (Campernelle) (Fragrant).—Why Lin- 
nus applied this distinctive name to this species is not 
clear, as it is not more fragrant than many other of the 
species. Of this there are several varieties, all worth 
growing, as they will thrive in any warm situation. 

N. poeticus (Poets’ Narcissus).—This is one of 
the most beautiful, as well as the most common, of the 
species. A border of this Narcissus, after the bulbs get 
well established, has no equal among early flowers. 
There are several varieties, differing but little excepting 
in time of flowering. Flowers pure white with crimson 
border on the cup. See Page 238. 

N. Pseudo-Narcissus (The Common Daffodil, or 
Lent Lily).—This is socommon in EHurope that it has 
become naturalized in many places. It will grow any- 
where, in sun or shade, and increases rapidly where once 
planted. 

Var. moschatus (White Spanish Daffodil).—A very 
dwarf plant, with flowers similar to the common daffodil, 
excepting that they are of a delicate creamy white color. 
While it is classed among the perfectly hardy sorts, it 
must be planted on very rich, dry soil, and then slightly 
protected, or it will not bloom. 

N. Tazetta (Polyanthus Narcissus).—This is the 
type of an entirely distinct class, remarkable for the fra- 
grance and beauty of its flowers. We have already 
noticed the class, on Page 239, observing that the repre- 
sentatives are not hardy, and are only to be employed in 
pot culture, or in glasses, or for forcing in the green- 
house for cut flowers and conservatory decoration. 
There are several hundred varieties of this species; the 
most important are: 

N. T. orientalis.— Chinese Sacred Lily, Page 240. 


244 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


N. T. papyraceus (Paper White Narcissus).— 
Among the varieties in great demand for florists’ use is 
the Double Roman, one of the best. The word Tazetta 
signifies a small deep vessel, like a cup. -Narcissus is 
the name of a youth said to have been changed into a 
flower. See Page 239. 


NECTAROSCORDIUM. 


Honey Garlic. 

This pretty little bulb is a native of Sicily. WV. ste- 
ulum, the only species, was formerly included m the genus 
Allium. It is perfectly hardy, growing freely in com- 
mon light soil, and blooms in June. The flowers are 
green, or purplish, produced on a slender scape three to 
four feet high. It is increased by offsets. 


NERINE. 
See Page 21. 
ONION LILY. 
See Ornithogalum caudatum, Page 245. 
OPORANTHUS. 
A synonym of Sternbergia lutea, Page 22. 
ORNITHOGALUM. 
Star of Bethlehem. 

This is a genus of hardy, half-hardy and tender 
bulbs, but few of which have any place in the garden. 
They are natives of Europe, Asia, and the Cape of Good 
Hope. The hardy species increase so rapidly as to be- 
come a nuisance. The tender species will grow in any 
moist place protected against frost. 

O. arabicum.—Decidedly the finest of the species, 
and well adapted for house culture; it also makes a fine 


display in the garden. The flowers are large, pure white 
with a black center, borne on a scape one and one-half 


ra 


> ae 


ORNITHOGALUM. 245 


feet long, in a six to twelve flowered raceme. In pots 
they should be treated in the same manner as the Hya- 
cinth, Page 147. In the open border the bulbs should 
be planted in the spring, as they will not survive the 
winter without protection, which is needed quite as 


FLOWERS AND PLANT OF ORNITHOGALUM ARABICUM. 


much against water as against frost. They are rapidly 
increased by offsets. 

O. caudatum (Long-tailed Ornithogalum).— A 
tender species from the Cape of Good Hope. The flow- 
ers are small and greenish, in a very long, densely-coy- 
ered, spike-like raceme. They have a sweet, but rather 


246 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


sickly smell. This species is sometimes called Onion 
Lily, and is a favorite with the Chinese, who grow it in 
the same manner as the Sacred Lily. It is remarkably 
tenacious of life; it will grow in soil, or out; hang it 
up against a wall in a dry room, and it will flower as 
well there as anywhere; or, if planted in the border, it 
will endure our winters, if slightly protected. 

O. thyrsoides.—This species and its varieties have 
rather pleasing flowers, some yellow of different shades, 
and others pure white with a dark center, all distinct, 
and pleasing objects in the greenhouse, where they must 
be grown. 

O. umbellatum (The Common Star of Bethlehem). 
Although one of our prettiest early summer flowers, its 
dissemination should be avoided, as it is sure to assume 
the mastery over every other form of vegetation when it 
once gets started. If this species could be confined 
within reasonable limits, its presence in the garden 
would be most desirable. The remaining species do not 
merit description. 


OVEIDA. 
See Lapeyrousia, Page 169. 
OXALIS. 


This is an extensive genus, the species differing 
widely in habit and form, and requiring various methods 
of culture. The genus contains annuals, perennials and 
bulbous plants; the latter, only, shall we mention. Of 
these there are several species of great value, as border 
plants for edgings, and for winter blooming in the con- 
servatory or window garden. 

O. Bowiei.—One of the most desirable species. 
The flowers are dark rose, produced in umbels, continu- 
ously either throughout the summer or winter, according 
as the bulbs have been treated. Like most other bulbs, 


—_— = « 


OXALIS. 247 


they require a season of rest; that season can be easily 
regulated, but it is of no use to try to flower these bulbs 
in winter, if they have flowered in the summer. The 
use of this, as well as of the following species, is as 
winter flowering plants, and to have them flower in win- 
ter, bulbs must be procured that were formed on winter 
flowering plants, and ripened off in spring or early sum- 
mer. Bulbs that have flowered during the summer, and 
have formed new ones which have perfected their 


OXALIS ROSEA (FLORIBUNDA). 


growth, will not flower again until the following sum- 
mer. This is often the cause of failure, in winter 
blooming. ‘The bulbs offered by the trade have been 
grown in the open ground during summer, when, instead, 
they should have been grown in the greenhouse the pre- 
vious winter. ‘The cultivation of this species is very 
simple. In October put three bulbs, the larger the bet- 
ter, in a six inch pot filled with ordinary potting mold, 
and place them where they can have all the light possi- 


248 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


ble, and water as required. They will at once show, by 
the drooping of the foliage, any neglect in this respect 
they may receive; they will soon come into flower, and 
continue for two or three months. This species would 
be well worth growing for the beauty of its foliage, 
which is very large and massive. After flowering, grad- 
ually withhold water; when the foliage dies down, set 
the pots away where the soil will keep perfectly dry, 
until it is time to start them into growth, when they 
should be repotted. They increase rapidly, and are 
natives of the Cape of Good Hope. 

O. luteola.—Another Cape species, and our first 
choice for a winter flowering bulb, either in the green- 
house, conservatory or window garden. It must, in all 
respects, be treated like the foregoing, and if it cannot 
have plenty of sunlight there is no use attempting its 
growth. The flowers are golden yellow, produced in 
large terminal clusters on long slender scapes. It is a 
persistent and continuous bloomer. It can be planted 
out on a shallow greenhouse bench, and for months the 
bench will appear a mass of bloom. 

O. rosea (Floribunda).—See Page 24’. 

O. versicolor.—A splendid border plant, quite as 
ornamental in foliage as in flower; the flowers are small, 
but produced in such quantity as to make a pleasing 
effect. 

O. lasiandra (Woolly-stamened).—Very effective 
as a border plant, and a continuous bloomer. It should 
be used as an edging, for which there is no plant more 
suitable. The leaves are very large, dark green, and ° 
haying seven to twelve divisions. The bulbs of this and 
of the preceding species should be taken up after the 
first frost, and stored in a cool cellar, free from frost. 
They increase rapidly by offsets, which will flower the 
first season. : 

O. cernua.—A synonym or variety of O. luteola. 
We were never able to detect any difference. 


PANCRATIUM. 249 


PANCRATIUM CALATHINUM, 


i 


250 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


PANCRATIUM. 


This is a genus of greenhouse or half-hardy bulbs, 
but little cultivated, from the fact that their beauty and 
usefulness is not proportionate to their price, or the cost 
of cultivation. The flowers are white, or greenish white, 
produced in large umbels, on a solid scape about two 
feet high. The species abound in the South of Europe, 
Africa, Arabia, and in several of the more southern of 
the United States. They all require greenhouse treat- 
ment, thriving best when planted in a rather hght 
loamy soil. ‘They require a season of perfect rest, and 
are propagated by offsets. See engraving, Page 249. 

P. maritimum (Sea Daffodil).—This plant abounds 
on the coast of the Mediterranean, in the sands, where 
it has the burning rays of the sun and the cold winds 
from the sea. These conditions are difficult to furnish 
in the greenhouse, and to flower well it must have them. 
It seems to have been created for the position it fills in 
its native habitat, where it blooms most profusely. 

P. ovatum.—A native of the West Indies, and is 
the most beautiful of the genus, and a desirable green- 
house plant, bearing an umbel of fifteen to thirty pure 
white, sweet-scented flowers, most useful for cut flower 
decoration, while the plant in bloom is one of the most 
useful for decorative purposes. It is an easy subject to 
manage, and can be made to bloom twice in a season, by 
giving it complete rest soon after flowering, and a humid 
atmosphere when in growth. 

P. carolinianum.—Common on the Southeastern 
coast of North America from South Carolina to Florida. 
This is now considered a synonym of P. maritimum, 
the slight difference in habit being attributed to climatic 
influences. 

P. calathinum (Hymenocallis).— A native of 
Brazil, with pure white, fragrant flowers; this is listed 


é 
: 
; 


: Dy cee Md 


PARDANTHUS. 251 


by the trade as Jsmene Knight, but it is now called 
Hymenocallis calathina (Page 158). 
PARDANTHUS. 
Blackberry Lily, or Leopard Flower. 


This handsome flower is not a lily, as its popular 
name implies, but belongs to the Iris family. Its 
name, Pardanthus chinensis, is derived from pardos, 
leopard, and anthos, a flower—hence leopard flower; 
and chinensis means of China. The Chinese Leopard 
Flower was formerly very common in gardens, but like 
many another deserving plant, has given way to the 
universal craze for novelties. The stem grows three or 
four feet high, branches at the top, where it bears regu- 
lar flowers of an orange color, and abundantly dotted 
with crimson or reddish-purple spots. One great merit 
of the Leopard flower is that it is late flowering, being 
in bloom from midsummer to September. After the 
pretty flowers have faded, the capsules grow on and 
enlarge, and when quite ripe the walls of the capsules 
break away and curl up, leaving a central column of 
shining, black-coated seed, looking so much like a well- 
developed, ripe blackberry, that the fruit, if not so 
handsome as the flower, is quite as interesting, and 
shows that in this instance it does not require any effort 
of the imagination to see the applicability of perhaps its 
most common name—the Blackberry Lily. The plant 
is hardy in most of the Northern States, but the French 
florists say that it does not endure the winters of Paris 
without protection. It is a tuberous-rooted, herbaceous 
perennial, requiring a rich, sandy loam soil, and a shel- 
tered situation in winter. It is propagated in spring by 
seeds, or by division of the roots. A plant, together 
with its flowers and fruit, is seen in the engraving, 
on Page 252. This plant is now botanically known as 
Belamcanda chinensis. See engraving on next page. 


252 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


BLACKBERRY LILY OK LEOPARD FLOWER. 


PENTLANDIA—PEONY. 253 


PENTLANDIA. 
See Urceolina miniata, Page 298. 


PHONY. 
Peontia. 


The Peony has few rivals in the herbaceous border, 
when well treated, which, as is the case with many other 
strong, noble characters, is not always done. Because it 
is strong, it is generally supposed that it will feed and 
care for itself. The reverse is the case, generally, with 
strong growing plants. The stronger they are the more 
food they require to bring out their full development. 
A more neglected plant is not to be found in our gardens 
than the Peony. Itis put anywhere, without regard to 
its necessities, in the shade, in the grass, or so near the 
path that it gets trampled under foot. In spite of such 
treatment it will flower. While the Peony will flower 
under unfavorable circumstances, it should have a deep, 
lively loam, rich when the plants are set, and kept so 
ever after. ‘The ground should be mulched in summer 
to keep the roots moist, and some coarse litter should be 
thrown over the plant in winter to prevent severe freez- 
ing, as well as alternate freezing and thawing. The soil 
should be well worked about the plants, the same as for 
the Rose. With such treatment, the plants, from a dis- 
tance, will seem all flower, instead of presenting an occa- 
sional one. 

Shrubby Peonies.—This genus is divided into 
two distinct classes, Shrubby and Herbaceous, of which 
there are several species, and a large number of varieties. 
The shrubby species and varieties are usually propagated 
by division, or layers; but they may also be grafted on 
the roots of the herbaceous sorts, or struck from cut- 
tings. The grafting may be done any time from the 
beginning of September until the first of March. Select 
good strong tubers of the herbaceous sorts, and take off 


254 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


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MOUTAN OR TREE PEONY. 


PEONY. 255 


cuttings about six inches long of any desired variety. 
Then slit the tubers from the crown downwards about 
two inches; form the scion like a wedge, insert it into 
the slit of the tuber, and fit the barks on one side as 
accurately as possible, then bind them well together, as 
in any ordinary root grafting. It is well to bind with 
copper wire, as the bast may rot before a union takes 
place. Put them in a shaded cold frame; plant them 
out when they have perfected one season’s growth, or 
treat them like established plants. The shrubby Peonies 
are considered perfectly hardy, and are, so far that frost 
will not injure the plants, but they will flower more 
freely in a well sheltered situation. 

Pzonia Moutan (Tree Peony).—This species is a 
native of China and Japan, whence it was introduced in 
1789. In its native habitat it is said to grow from eight 
to ten feet high, bearing an abundance of purple flowers. 
With us it rarely grows four feet high, but in a partially 
protected situation it forms a rather dense under-shrub, 
and flowers profusely. Since the species were first intro- 
duced numerous varieties have been brought out, with 
white, pink, purple, rose, magenta and salmon-colored 
flowers, mostly single or semi-double. See engraving. 

The Herbaceous Peonies are increased by divis- 
ion. When this is desirable it should be done in Octo- 
ber. ‘The tubers may be divided to any extent, only it 
is necessary to have, at least, one eye on each tuber. 
Immediately after cutting up, plant in nursery rows, or 
where they are to remain. If divided in autumn they 
will usually flower the following season, but if divided 
in the spring they rarely flower until another year. The 
most desirable species are : 

Pzonia albiflora.—This is the old and well- 
known double white Peony, a native of Siberia; of this 
there are several varieties, all of which are very showy 
and useful. They are mostly about two feet high, and 


256 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


are distinguishable by the rather bold, smooth, three- 
parted leaves. A few of the best are: 
_ Var. fragrans.—Dark pink rose-scented flowers. 

Var. Humei.—Double crimson, very showy. 

Var. Pottsii.—Dark crimson; the plant tall-grow- 
ing and strong. 

Var. Whitleyii.—Fine double white, yellowish 
center. 

P. officinalis.—This is the old double red Peony 
of the gardens, one of the most showy of the species, as 
well as the most desirable, because of its hardiness and 

wh pp free-flowering qualities. 

It is closely allied to 

the foregoing species, 

and is the parent of nu- 
merous varieties. 

tN P. tenuifolia (Fine 

AOnSS Leaved Peony).—This 


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Fi US ; 
SON age Nee is one of the most dis- 
LEG 4 RSS tinct of herbaceous Peo- 
a SQW \ Nye nies. Itisrather dwarf, 
a | yee ye, rarely growing more 
a | WES than a foot high. The 
ida A \~< > leaves are much parted, 
7” <S~ and the segments are 


‘ divided into numerous 
SEE eS ee eae thread-like lobes. The 
flowers of the double forms are very compact, of a bright 
crimson color. It is one of the earliest of our spring 
flowers, blooming soon after the Tulip. It is one of the 
best Peonies, and worthy a place in any select border, 
and is quite elegant and congruous in small gardens. 
The herbaceous Peonies are readily propagated by 
seed, by which means an almost endless variety may be 
secured, as hybridization has been so effective that the 
seedlings partake of all the forms and colors that the 
species are capable of producing. 


PEONY—PH HDRANASSA. 857 


Peony seeds should be sown in light soil as soon as 
ripe, which will be about the first of September, and 
covered with half an inch of soil. They will come up 
the following spring, and may remain in the seed bed 
for two years before they are transplanted, scattering a 
little earth over them when the leaves decay, at the end 
of the growing season. After two years growth in the 
seed bed, they should, in October, be transplanted into 


well prepared nursery rows, and put out six inches apart, 


and three inches deep. Here they are to remain until 
they flower, which, if in good soil, and with good culti- 
vation, will be the fourth year after seed-sowing. 


PERUVIAN DAFFODILS. 
See Hymenocallis Amancaes, Page 15%. 
PEYROUSIA. 
See Lapeyrousia, Page 169. 
PHADRANASSA. 


Queen Lily. 

A small genus of rather curious bulbs, growing at a 
high elevation among the rocks in the Peruvian Andes. 
They are more interesting than showy or handsome. 
The flowers are about two inches long, in the form of a 
slender tube, of a light pea-green color, tipped with 
pink. They flower in winter, after which the bulbs 
require a long season of rest. Their whole period of 
growth does not exceed three months. ‘The cool green- 
house is suited to them. ‘They increase by offsets. 


PHALLOCALLIS. 
See Cypella, Page 76. 
PHYCELLA. 


A small genus of half-hardy bulbous plants from 
the mountain regions of Mexico, which is now included 
in Hippeastrum, Page 13. 

1% 


258 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


PLANTA. 


A small genus of Cape bulbs now included in Hexa- 
glottis, Page 137. 


POLIANTHES TUBEROSA. 
Tuberose. 


Everyone who has a garden, or a taste for flowers, 
knows the Tuberose. Its history, however, may not be 
known. OD. F. Fish, in his book on ‘*‘ Bulbs and their 
Culture,” says it is a native of Italy. In Nicholson’s 
‘‘Dictionary of Gardening,” Mexico has the honor of 
its nativity. ‘Two species make up the genus. 

In Parkinson’s quaint old book, ‘‘The Garden of 
Pleasant Flowers,” published in 1629, we find the follow- 
ing description of it, under its then known name of 
Hyacinth, with which it was classed: ‘‘ Hyacinthus 
Indicus major tuberosa radice, ‘the greater Indian 
Knobbed Jacinth.’ I have thought fittest to begin with 
this Jacinth (Hyacinth), both because it is the greatest 
and highest, and also because the flowers herof are in 
some likenesse neare unto a Daffodille, although his 
roote be tuberous, and not bulbous, as the rest are. 
This Indian Jacinth hath a thicke knobbed roote (yet 
formed into several heads, somewhat like unto bulbous 
roots), with many thick fibres at the bottom of them ; 
from the divers heads of this roote arise divers strong 
and very tall stalkes, beset with divers faire, long and 
broad leaves, joined at the bottome close unto the stalk, 
where they are the greatest, and smaller to the very end, 
and those that grow higher to the toppe, being smaller 
and smaller. The toppes of the stalkes are garnished 
with many faire, large, white flowers, each wherof is 
composed of six leaves, lying spread open as the flowers 
of the white Daffodil, with some short threads in the 
middle, and of a very sweet scent, or rather strong and 
heades.” 


POLIANTHES TUBEROSA. 259 


The double flowering variety was a seedling raised 


under any circum- 
stances, part with 
aroot of it. Hven 
after propagating 
a desired quantity, 
if there was a sur- 
plus, he would 
cause every tuber 
to be cut in pieces 
and destroyed, in 
order to be the 
only possessor of 
so valuable a plant, 
and, which he con- 
sidered, the finest 
flower in the world. 

The  cultiva- 
tion of the Tube- ¢ 
rose bulb was, for “ 
many years, con- 
fined principally 
to the Italian nur- 
series ; but for the 
past twenty-five 2 
years they have * 
been largely grown 
in the United 
States. At the 
present time the 
markets of the 
world are largely 
supplied with DOUBLE TUBEROSE. 
American grown bulbs. Less change of form from the 
species has taken place with this, than with almost any 


260 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


other form in cultivation. The only change worthy a 
varietal name was a ‘‘Sport,” discovered by John Hen- 
derson, of Flushing, N. Y., growing in his field, about 
1870. A number of plants of strong habit of growth, 
and with dark, broad foliage, attracted his attention, 
and he determined to keep them apart from his main 
stock, in order to see what the result would be. These 
he cultivated in the same manner as his other bulbs. | 
Upon their flowering, he discovered a distinct type, of 
dwarf habit, and much larger flowers. This he at once 
named the “Pearl,” and from the then small stock 
the trade is now wholly supplied. What is known as 
the ‘‘ Excelsior” Pearl, is simply the “Pearl,” and 
nothing else. 

P. gracilis.—A native of Brazil. It has pale yel- 
low flowers of small merit, and is but little known. 

P. tuberosa (Common Tuberose).—The earliest 
account we have of this species is in L’Hcluse’s ‘‘ History 
of Plants,” from which we learn it was brought from 
the Indies by Father Theophilus Minuti, a Christian 
missionary, about the year 1530, who grew it in his gar- 
dens near Toulon, France. Bernard Paludanus, a dis- 
tinguished physician at Rome, grew it in 1594, having 
obtained the roots from the priests, who had, previously, 
refused the most earnest entreaties to part with it. At 
this time the single species and the variety with varie- 
gated foliage were the only ones in cultivation. 

Culture of the Tuberose.—The Tuberose is a 
gross feeder, and succeeds best in a light loam, but will 
grow in any soil, providing it is moist and rich; rich it 
must be, without regard to other conditions; its com- 
plete requisites are, heat, water and manure; if these 
are proportionate, it matters not how much there may 
be, the plants will consume it, and by their growth show 
its importance. 

For field culture prepare the ground as for a crop of 
potatoes; plant in drills thirty inches apart, and place 


POLIANTHES TUBEROSA. 261 


the bulbs four inches apart in the drills, three inches 
below the surface. Keep the cultivator constantly 
going, not to kill weeds, but to make Tuberose bulbs. 
After a frost take up the bulbs, cut the tops to within 
two inches of the tops of the bulbs, and store in a dry 
room, where the temperature does not fall below 40°. 
From North Carolina southward, small sets will make 
large flowering bulbs in one season ; to the northward it 
requires two years. For that reason, what are known as 
*‘Southern grown bulbs,” can be profitably sold much 
cheaper than those grown at the North. Whether the 
latter are to be preferred because of their superiority, is 
a disputed question. Our opinion is that it is not a 
question of growth,.but of the care taken of the bulbs 
after they are dug, that enhances or detracts from their 
value. Northern grown bulbs, like all other plants that 
have a shorter period of growth, will produce their flow- 
ers earlier, but whether with more certainty we have 
great doubts. 

For blooming in the garden, the offsets should all 
be carefully taken off, and the bulbs put away until the 
wounds are dried over; then plant in good rich soil, 
placing the bulb just below the surface; if covered too 
deep they are not as likely to flower. 

Greenhouse Culture of Tuberoses.—Tuberoses 
can be had in bloom, with a little care, nearly the whole 
year. Plants that show flower buds in the field, upon 
the approach of frost, will perfect their growth if care- 
fully taken up and put in a warm greenhouse, as will 
bulbs that have not even shown their flower stalks. Dry 
bulbs may be planted from January to August, which 
will keep up a succession of bloom. They succeed best 
planted: out on the benches with about four inches of 
good soil. The same conditions of growth must be 
observed indoors as without,—heat, manure, water, and 
a free circulation of air. They must, moreover, have 


262 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


the full light of the house; in a dark house, the flower- 
spikes will be long-drawn, weak, and the flowers will be 
small and of but little substance. : 

The too common practice of filling up every vacant 
place in the greenhouse with Tuberoses is a mistake. 
To have good flowers, the plants must have plenty of 
room, light, air and heat. The bulbs should not be 
closer than six inches apart each way. 


PUSCHKINIA. 


P. scilloides, the only species, is a pretty little 
bulb with flowers resembling those of a Scilla. The 
leaves grow from the root, and stand erect round the 
stem, as though protecting the flower. It is a native of 
Asia Minor, the Caucasus and Afghanistan, and quite 
hardy. ‘Treat the same as all hardy bulbs. The propa- 
gation is effected by offsets. 


PYROLIRION. 
Flame Lily. 


The two species that constitute this genus have 
tubular flowers, bearing considerable resemblance to 
those of the Zephyranthes in shape, but differ widely in 
color. ‘They are both natives of Peru, and require the 
same treatment as the Zephyranthes (Page 25). They 
flower in summer, growing freely in light soil. The 
bulbs must be kept from frost during winter. 

P. aureum (Zephyranthes Flower).—Grows as 
freely in the grain fields and hedgerows of Peru, as the 
daisies in our fields. The flowers are clear golden yellow. 

P. flavum.—lIn all respects similar to the above, 
except in its orange-colored flowers. 


QUEEN LILY. 
See Pheedranassa, Page 257. 


RANUNCULWUS. 263 


RANUNCULUS. - 


Nearly one hundred and sixty species are included 
in this genus, which is divided into two distinct classes : 
The Herbaceous Ranunculus, which inhabit nearly 
every country of the globe, and embrace all manner of 
weeds, as well as showy plants; and the Garden Ranun- 
culus. The latter consist of many hundreds of varieties 
obtained from the species Ranunculus asiaticus, a na- 
tive of the Levant. This species has tuberous roots, is 
indigenous in Persia, in meadows which are moist during 
the winter and the growing season, but dry during a 
great part of summer. In our climate the latter plant 
is difficult to manage, as it should be planted in Febru- 
ary, a season when gardening operations are wholly sus- 
pended. If the tubers are planted then and protected 
by a frame, they flower freely in June; then they should 
have a partial shading from the sun, which is too powerful 
for them. The soil they prefer is a light and sandy one, 
made rich with well-rotted manure; avoid any that is 
heating. What is known as the Turban Ranunculus 
should be planted in November, and protected in the 
same manner as the former. 

Very soon after the blooming season, the leaves 
begin to fade, a sign that the roots are fit to be taken 
up, much depending upon doing this at the proper time. 
If taken up before they are ripe, a loss of vigor is the 
result, and the same if allowed to remain a few days 
beyond the proper season. The proper time is easily 
determined, by the leaves parting from the roots with a 
slight pull; when this can be done, let them be at once 
taken up. After cleansing them from the soil, spread 
them thinly in a shaded place to dry, turning them fre- 
quently until they are perfectly dried, then they may be 
stored away. 

The tubers, if kept dry, will retain their vitality for 
two or three years; this will allow of their being planted 


264 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


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TYPES OF RANUNCULUS, 


RANUNCULUS. 265 


_at any desired time; and, as the cool greenhouse is the 
proper place for growing them, in our climate, a succes- 
sion of bloom can be constantly kept up. In the green- 
house, the bulbs may be planted in pots, pans or boxes ; 
three tubers will be sufficient for a six inch pot. The 
flowers are very showy and pleasing; colors from pure 
white to dark crimson and yellow, with every variety of 
variegation. Ranunculus is the Latin name for little 
frog, applied by Pliny to these plants, the aquatic spe- 
cies growing where frogs abound. 

As we have said in the American Agriculturist : 
Very few races of plants have a wider geographical range, 
or a greater diversity of character than the Ranunculus. 
The genus contains species of rare beauty, and a few 
troublesome weeds. Some are inhabitants of swamps, 
and others thrive in dry, waste places. The common 
buttercup, R. bulbosus, is a weed in our marshy mead- 
ows, but it is as welcome as spring to the botanist, or 
the lover of early flowers. It gives so much warmth 
and life to the landscape that, troublesome as it is, the 
meadow would seem unnatural without it. The Ranun- 
culus of gardens is f&. asiaticus, commonly known as 
the Persian Ranunculus, although it was first introduced 
from the Levant in 1596. Like many other florists’ 
flowers, the species has expanded to many varieties pro- 
duced through the agency of cross-fertilization. One 
hundred years ago it was one of the most popular plants 
under cultivation, eight hundred distinct varieties being 
grown. It is still exceedingly popular in Europe, where 
it can be easily grown, a bed keeping in bloom for fully 
two months. The flowers are of various shades, and 
with an intensity of color only to be found in the poppy. 
There is no class of plants more free-flowering. A good 
strong tuber will throw up as many as thirty flowers. 
Its name is from rana, a frog, because the plants usually 
inhabit the same places. For that reason, beautiful as 


266 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


the flower is, it is not well suited to our climate, and 
can only be grown under artificial conditions that render 
its cultivation here more difficult. The Ranunculus is 
one of the many plants of remarkable beauty in their 
own homes, but not adapted to other climates. Drouth, 
poverty of soil, rare atmosphere and fierce sunshine, are 


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CALLA FLOWERS AND FOLIAGE. 


fatal to its development. It is, moreover, easily injured 
by frost. Very satisfactory results, however, can be 
obtained by planting the bulbs in a cold frame, protected 
by a liberal mulching of leaves to exclude the frost. In 
early spring remove the mulch, but keep the sash on, as 


RICHARDIA. 267 


cold winds are fatal; on the other hand, they will not 


endure intense sunshine, so that great care is required 
in shading and ventilating, to imitate well the cool, 
moist climate of Hurope. 


RICHARDIA. 


Calla. Egyptian or Arum Lily. Lily of the Nile. 


Calla is a popular name given this flower by Pliny. 
It is, botanically, Richardia ethiopica (synonym 
R. africana), and is the best representative of the 
genus, which contains five species. ‘They abound in the 
Nile, and flower during the season of high water, which 
covers the roots to the depth of several inches. After 
the spring freshets have subsided the water falls below 
the roots, and the tops die down, fall over and protect 
the roots against the tropical sun. This is the period of 
rest that nature furnishes this plant, during which time 
the temporary bed of the river, in which they grow, is 
as dry as dust. In this condition they remain several 
months, or until they are again covered with water, 
when growth is renewed. 

To grow the Calla well, these conditions must be 
approximated. While we cannot afford them rivers to 
grow in, we must afford them an abundance of water, a 
moderately high temperature ‘and a rich soil. In pot 
culture, too large pots must not be given them; a six- 
inch size is sufficiently large for a plant with two or 
three crowns, which should give several blooms each. 
In large pots, leaf growth will be the result, rather than 
flowers. In using small pots, liquid manure, in some 
form, should be applied at least once a week. Another 
disadvantage in the use of large pots is, that the flowers 
are too large for real beauty, or for use as cut flowers. 
The same result follows from planting them out in beds 
in the greenhouse. 


BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


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GR 


FIELD 


CALLA 


q RICHARDIA. - 269 


i 
2 


IN CALIFORNIA, 


270 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


After flowering, a season of complete rest is essential. 
This is best afforded by turning the pots on their sides 
in some shaded place, where water cannot reach. This 
is as near as we can approach a natural rest. With this 
rest the plants will make less leaves, and far more flow- 
ers, which is the object to be gained. 

The plants may be re-potted, if necessary, about the 
first of October, giving them a pot one size larger than 
they previously occupied. The offsets may be potted 
separately, in two-inch pots, which are sufficiently large. 
If the plants are not over-crowded in the pots a change 
will not be necessary. Set the pots in a tub of water 
until the ball is thoroughly wet, then grow on as before 
stated. For the window garden there is no more satis- 
factory plant than the Calla; it will endure more heat 
than most others, and there is no danger from over- 
watering. An occasional syringing and washing of the 
leaves with a soft sponge, to keep them free from dust, 
is of great importance. What are popularly known as 
Crimson or Black Callas, are species of Arum, described 
on Page 33. The true species are: 

R. zthiopica (Syn. &. africana). — Described 
above. 

R. albo-maculata.—A species with spotted foliage, 
and smaller white flowers, with purple center, produced 
freely in summer. It makes a fine clump in the border. 
The tubers of this species can be kept dry during winter, 
the same as Dahlias (Page 84), and divided in spring 
when planted out. This species grows readily from seed 
sown in the garden at the same time the bulbs are 
planted ; flowering the second year. 

R. hastata (Yellow Calla).—The flowers of this 
species are similar in all respects to those of R. ethiopica, 
excepting that they are of a greenish yellow color. 
The plants are to be treated in the same manner. 


RIGIDELLA—ROMAN SQUILL. 2064 


RIGIDELLA. 


R. flammea, a native of Mexico, is the best repre- 
sentative of this small genus of plants, where it grows 
from three to five feet high, with very broad and curi- 
ously plicate leaves, which look as though they had been 
artificially plaited by the hands of a skillful workman. 
The flowers are numerous, all issuing from one spathe, 
and opening only one at a time. They are very hand- 
some, from the brilliancy of their color and the peculiar- 
ity of their form. It is a summer flowering bulb, to be 
treated in the same manner as the Tigridia. 


ROMAN HYACINTH. 
See Page 153. 


ROMAN SQUILL or BELLEVALIA. 


This flower is usually classed with the genus Hya- 
cinthus, Page 156. It is a hardy, bulbous plant, well 
adapted for spring bedding or for forcing for cut flow- 
ers. ‘The leaves are few and near the ground. It is 
propagated by offsets, and also by seeds, which should 
be sown as soon as ripe. 

Bellevalia romana (Hyacinthus romanus) (Roman 
Squill).—The small, whitish, bell-shaped flowers are 
borne in racemes. A native of Italy, and the best 
species for forcing. 

B. syriaca (Syrian Squill).—Flowers whitish or 
violet, tinged with green. A native of Syria. 


ROMUELA. 
See Trichonema, Page 278. 
SANGUINARIA. 
; Bloodroot. 


S. canadensis.—The common Bloodroot of our 
woods is a herbaceous, tuberous-rooted plant, well wor- 


272 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


thy a place in the shaded border. It can be easily 
removed from its native habitat, by lifting the tuberous 
roots when the foliage begins to turn yellow, and trans- 
ferring them to the garden, with as little delay as possi- 
ble. But few of our native plants are as attractive, or so 
easily managed. When once planted it can remain 
undisturbed for years, and when under cultivation the 
flowers increase in size and in the number of their petals. 
In the border, it will require a mulching of leaves, which 
it has in its native wood, to protect against frost. 


SCILLA. 
Squill. 


Among spring and early summer flowering bulbs, 
the Scillas are of considerable importance, both for their 
effect in the border and for their use as cut flowers. 
Their flowers resemble those of the Hyacinth, but are 
much smaller; their colors are more intense, and they 
come into flower much earlier. As an edging, or for fill- 
ing small beds, if planted sufficiently thick, the effect is 
matchless ; and equally so grown in the borders in groups 
of a dozen ora hundred. The bulbs should be planted 
in October, either in the border, or for the house in pots, 
in the same manner as the Hyacinth. They thrive any- 
where, but do best in good sandy soil. They may remain 
several years undisturbed without injury, the clump 
increasing in size and beauty. 

S. sibirica.—This species is the gem of the genus, 
its intense blue flowers, appearing with the Crocus and 
Snowdrop, make a pleasing contrast. It is a native of 
Siberia, as its name would imply, and is perfectly hardy. 

S. preecox.—Similar to the foregoing, but not as 
hardy; however, if planted in a dry situation, it will 
not be injured by frost. It is a native of Germany. 

S. campanulata.—One of the finest species; a 
native of Spain. Flowers blue, white and pink. 


SCILLA—SNOWDROP. 273 


S. peruviana.—A South American species, with 
blue and white flowers, on immense spikes; a magnifi- 
cent plant for pot culture, but not hardy. 

S. nutans (common Bluebell or Harebell).—A very 
beautiful hardy species, common in English woods. 

S. amcena.—One of the best, early and free-flower- 
ing. Although a native of the Levant, it is usually 
hardy. There are an immense number of species and 


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SIBERIAN SQUILL. 


varieties of the same general character, which can be 
grown in the same manner. 


SCILLA FRASERI. 
See Camassia, Page 52. 


SNOWDROP. 


See Galanthus, Page 95. 
18 


274 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


SNOWFLAKE. 
See Leucoium, Page 169. 


SPARAXIS. 


These were formerly included in the genus Jzia 
(Page 166), and bear a close resemblance to them, the 
main points of difference being 
that the Sparaxis are of more 
compact habit of growth, the 
flowers more bold, and some- 
what larger, and the flower 
spikes are not more than half 
as high, rarely growing more 
than six inches. -They require 
the same treatment as the 
Ixias, in all respects, and are 
propagated in the same man- 
ner. They deserve a place in 
jj/.. the greenhouse and window 
i ~~ garden. 


SPREKELIA. 
See Page 22. 


STAR-GRASS. 
See Hypoxis, Page 158. 


STAR OF BETHLEHEM. 


: See Ornithogalum, Page 
SPARAXIS. 246. 


STENOMESSON. 


A small genus of South American bulbs formerly 
included in Coburgia, Pancratium and Amaryllis. 
Although rather pretty, the most of them do not com- 


@ 


STERNBERGIA—STRUMARIA—TIGRIDIA. 275 


pensate for the greenhouse treatment they require. All 
require a very strong, rich soil, and the Coburgias do 
well in the open border, but flower better if grown in 
pots, as in the border they are more disposed to make 
offsets than flowers. If grown in pots, which is the best 
way of treating them, they should be plunged in the 
open border until the leaves are fully grown, when they 
may be brought into the greenhouse to develop their 
flowers. 

S. coccineum.—Scarlet. Native of Peruvian Andes. 

S. incarnatum (Coburgia).—A very large bulb, and 
requires planting from five to six inches deep. Flowers 
cup-shaped, of a bright crimson color, with green spots 
on each petal. Keep perfectly dry during winter. 

S. i. fulvum.—A more delicate variety, with light 
orange flowers. It succeeds best in the open border, 
and the bulbs are stored like the Gladiolus during win- 
ter (Page 115). 

STERNBERGIA. 

See Page 22. 


STRUMARIA. 


A small genus of Cape bulbs allied to Nerine (Page 
21), and requiring to be grown in the same manner. The 
flowers are red, white or pink. They are of dwarf habit, 
and thrive with ordinary greenhouse treatment. 

TIGRIDIA. 
Tiger Flower or Tiger Iris. 

These singular Mexican bulbs have no equal for gar- 
den display, when we consider their ease of culture, the 
length of time they are in flower, their magnificent col- 
ors and singular forms. Their remarkable flowers are 
of but short duration, never lasting more than a day, 


but are produced in such successive abundance as to 
compensate for this defect; one plant will continue 


276 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


TIGRIDIA FLOWER, 


TIGRIDIA. : 277 


flowering for two or three months, and during the whole 
of that time will make a splendid display in the garden. 

For the best effect the Tigridia should be planted in 
beds, the rows to be one foot apart, and the bulbs six 
inches apart in the rows, the different varieties ‘n the 
same bed and the colors in alternate rows. They are 
not particular as to soil, preferring a light, rich one, but 
will thrive in any if they have the same attention that is 
given other summer-flowering bulbs or bedding plants. 
They should be planted as soon as gardening operations 
commence. After the first hard frost, the bulbs should 
be taken up and tied in bunches, with the teps left on, 
and hung up in a cellar or dry room free from frost. In 
a damp cellar the bulbs will be liable to rot. The main 
object, in hangmg them up, is to protect them against 
the mice, which are particularly fond of them. It would 
answer just as well to cut the tops close to the bulbs and 
keep them in ventilated boxes, if secure against mice. 
They increase rapidly by offsets, but, in planting, it is 
better not to break the bulbs apart, they will naturally 
divide ; each bulb planted will make two or three clusters 
of three each ; the latter should not be separated, as they 
are liable to rot when broken apart. 

T. conchiflora. — Flowers deep yellow-crimson 
cup, spotted. 

T. grandiflora.—Said to be a variety of 7. pavonia, 
has very large. bright orange-red flowers. 

T. grandiflora alba.—Perhaps a sport from the 
foregoing ; has pure white flowers, with center or cup 
crimson spotted. This is a beautiful variety. 

These three kinds are all that could be desired, 
and they are all essential; the bed would not be com- 
plete if either of the three were absent. The several 
other varieties listed, are varieties only in name. 7. 
pavonia is intermediate between 7. conchiflora and T. 
grandiflora, but is a poor grower and its color not 
pleasing. 


278 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS, 


TILE ROOT. 
See Geissorhiza, Page 98. 


TRICHONEMA. 
Romuela. 

A genus of pretty little crocus-like bulbous plants, 
natives of the Cape and of the South of Europe. They 
require the same treatment as the Ixia (Page 166). 
The flowers are red, blue, yellow, purple and rose, and 
are produced in spring. ‘These bulbs are not hardy, and 
not of sufficient interest to warrant greenhouse culture. 
This genus is now included in Romuela. 

TRILLIUM. 
American Wood Lily, or Wake Robin. 

But few of our native early flowering plants are 
more showy than the Trillium. It abounds in moist, 
rocky woods, in the Northern and Eastern States, and 
can be successfully grown among shrubbery, if the situa- 
tion is not too dry. The bulbs, or more properly, 
tubers, are small, roundish, and generally deep in the 
ground; they should be transplanted as soon as the tops 
die down, and planted deep. They are perfectly hardy. 

T. grandiflorum.—A magnificent plant; nothing 
can surpass a mass of this when in bloom in its native 
habitat ; color pure white, changing to rose color. 

T. cernuum.—F lowers white, with green and pur- 
ple center, hidden beneath the leaves. Easy of cultiva- 
tion, but not very handsome. 

T. sessile.—A low-growing species, with dark red- 
dish flowers and variegated foliage. 

There are several other species, but 7. grandiflorum 
is the only truly desirable one. | 


TRITELEIA. 
A small genus of bulbs, natives of South America 


and California. Their general appearance bears a great 
resemblance to the flowers of Brodiza (Page 45). 


TRITELEIA—TRITONIA. 279 


T. uniflora.—The only species much cultivated, 
and deserving more attention than it has yet received, 
as it is a very elegant species. ‘The flowers, which are 
produced in June, are very delicate and beautiful, being 


TRILLIUM. 


of a pale sky blue color; the only objection to them 
being their garlic odor. Its introduction into the green- 
house was prevented by the fact of its unpleasant odor. 
They increase rapidly by offsets; and protection should 
be afforded them in winter. 


TRITONTA. 
This genus is allied to Sparaxis, Gladiolus, Ixia and 


Babiana. ‘The plants are gencrally of dwarf growth, 
and more tender than their allies. They are somewhat 


280 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


difficult to manage, not thriving in the open border, as 
they must be amply protected against frost and too much 
moisture, and in the greenhouse they do not make suffi- 
cient root growth to supply the leaves with nourishment. 
The genus seems adapted only to its native habitat. 
The species were formerly included with the Ixias (Page 
166), and similar treatment is very near to their necessi- 
ties. See also Montbretia, Page 233. 

T. aurea.—Also known as Crocosma aurea, is 
the easiest to manage, and the one most generally culti- 
vated. They succeed well as border plants, in light soil, 
perfectly drained, but they must be protected against 
frost. Although they do not flower until August or 
September, the bulbs must remain in the ground during 
winter, as they cannot remain long out of ground with- 
out injury. ‘To keep them dry during winter would be 
fatal to them, so the only resource left is to protect them 
in the bed, or take them up after flowering and keep 
them in pots. Neither of the methods will find favor 
with the American gardener, who has so many resources 
from which to draw, either for the garden or greenhouse. 


TROPAOLUM. 
Nasturtium. 


The tuberous species of this genus are very interest- 
ing plants, the best known being: 

T. tricolorum.—So named because of its three- 
colored flowers, orange, red and purple. The tubers of 
this species are about an inch in diameter, and should 
be planted on the 'surface of the soil, either in pots, or 
on the greenhouse bench, in light fibrous soil. From 
these tubers will arise delicate hair-like stems, which 
increase in size as they grow, being three times the 
thickness at a distance of six feet from the bulb. These 
stems are so delicate that it is necessary to provide a 
frame or trellis for their support, as they are entirely 


TUBEROSE—TULIP, 281 


unable to support themselves. The leaves do not appear 
until the vines are several feet in length. The flowers 
are very showy, and produced in the greatest profusion. 
Half a dozen tubers, planted at the end of the center 
bench of a greenhouse, will present a mass of bloom sey- 
eral feet square. ‘This is the only one of the class that 
is worthy of cultivation, and it should always be seen in 
the conservatory. 


TUBEROSE. 
See Polianthes, Page 258. 


TULEP: 
Tulipa. 


Few plants show so plainly the florists’ skill in selec- 
tion and cross-fertilization as the Tulip. Like the Glad- 
iolus, it has been improved in nearly every respect, with- 
out losing the respect of the systematic botanist. It is 
true that in the garden Tulips there are a few double 
forms, ‘‘vegetable monsters,” as Linneus termed all 
double flowers; but they are, relatively, few, and the 
taste for them is on the decline rather than on the in- 
erease. Among the true admirers of the Tulip the 
double forms meet with but lhttle favor; where flowers 
are grown simply to show a mass of color, without re- 
gard to form or structure, as in our public parks, the 
double Tulips answer a very good purpose, because they 
are showy, and last longer than the single forms. As 
flowers begin to be appreciated for their intrinsic worth, 
when we look into them rather than at them, when we 
see all their parts and their wonderful adaptation to each 
other, the beautiful necessity there is for each, our 
respect for double forms will be lost in our admiration 
for the single flower, perfect in all its parts as it was 
when it first beautified the earth, and there was none to 
admire other than the Power that gave it. 


282 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


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TYPES OF TULIPS. 


TULIP. | 283 


It seems to be the more general opinion that all 
flowers, in their natural state, are undeveloped, that 
they require the florist’s cunning hand to become per- 
fect, and that some one, with authority to speak, must 
say what constitutes the perfect flower, and when a 
given form has reached that state. We wish to dissent 
from that view most emphatically. While we are willing 
to admit that certain forms and colors have been mate- 
rially developed by the florists’ skill, we assert, without 
fear of contradiction, that no floral form is more perfect, 
no colors more intense or better defined, than the orig- 
inal forms possessed, and that all our skill in cultivation 
can only restore to the flower the properties that have 
been lost, in the long ages when there was no kindly 
hand to assist in its struggles with stronger forms, to 
gain a supremacy. Cultivation will enable the flower, 
or the plant upon which it grows, to reach that perfec- 
tion which its creation entailed ; it can do no more. 

The cultivation of the Tulip has restored its original 
size and strength; aided by cross-fertilization it has 
given new forms, or shapes of flower, a marked change 
in colors, or in their distribution, and has been the 
means of developing that taste and love for the beautiful 
in the flower that keeps apace with the intelligence and 
refinement of the age. Our perfected single Tulips are 
simply restored natural forms. 

Garden or Show Tulips.—The more popular 
Tulips for the garden are what are usually known as 
Late Flowering Tulips, single forms; these are divided 
into several distinct classes, all of which had their origin 
in Tulipa Gesneriana, a native of the Levant, and com- 
mon in Syria and Persia. It was brought to Europe 
from Persia in 1559, and was cultivated at Constan- 
tinople. From this city it found its way over Europe, 
under the name of the Turkish Tulip; and it was first 
botanically described by Gesner, a Swiss botanist resid- 


284 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


ing at Zurich, after whom it was very appropriately 
named. by Linneus. About a century after its first 
introduction, it became an object of commercial specula- 
tion, and enormous prices were paid for a single bulb. 
It is said that as much as $3,000 was offered and refused, 
in one instance. This mania ruined many of the Dutch 
fl-rists, as well as other speculators who were more 
excited and reckless than the growers; but happily it 
subsided in the early part of the eighteenth century, and 
the propagation and trade in the Tulip assumed a healthy 
tone; the industry rapidly increased until the present 
time, when, in Holland, more than seven hundred acres 
are devoted to its culture. 

This class of Tulips has been grown from seed by 
the millions, and the named varieties are so great that 
it would be impossible to enumerate them; one dealer 
alone boasts of more than eighteen hundred varieties. 
The ease with which the Tulip can be grown from seed 
stimulated production to a wonderful extent, the result 
of which is a vast number of superb varieties. The 
method of growing the Tulip from seed is, in many 
respects, unlike that of any other plant. ‘There is a sin- 
eularity about it exclusively its own. ‘The seedlings, 
generally, when they first bloom, produce flowers with- 
out any stripes or markings; a yellow or white bottom, 
and all the upright- portion of the petals self-colored, 
brown, red, purple, scarlet, or rose, and in this condition 
they remain a number of years without any variegations ; 
they are then called Breeders, or Mother Tulips. These 
Breeders are planted every year until they “‘break” into 
stripes, and if they prove desirable they are named, if 
not, they are thrown into the class known as mixtures ; 
but it takes so many years, sometimes, before the 
‘‘breaking” occurs, that they are multiplied largely in 
the breeder state, that is, in self colors, and are dissem- 
inated in all directions as ‘‘selfs”; many of these we 


TULIP. | 285 


consider the most desirable for garden decoration. Each 
person who has broken one thinks he has a right to give 
it a distinctive name, without considering whether 

others have not produced varieties similar, if not identi- 
cal, so that there may be under cultivation many varie- 
ties with different names that are one and the same 
thing. This causes great confusion in nomenclature, 
the same as exists in all florists’ flowers. Another inter- 
esting peculiarity which hardly belongs to any other 
flower, is the great uncertainty of their markings; for 
although we may have twenty of one kind in a bed, 
scarcely two will come nearly alike; but after they have 
once broken they never after change, the increase always 
bearing the same marks. This uncertainty gives more 
than half the charm to Tulip cultivation, or, rather, to 
the production of new varieties. 

The ideal of a first-class late Tulip has, by common 
consent, been thus minutely specified: The stem should 
be strong, elastic and erect, growing to about thirty 
inches above the surface of the bed. The flower should 
be large, and composed of six petals. These should pro- 
ceed a little horizontally at first, and then turn upwards, 
forming almost a perfect cup, with a round bottom, 
rather widest at the top. The three exterior petals 
should be rather larger than the three inner ones, and 
broader at their base; all the petals should have per- 
fectly entire edges, free from notch or serrature. The 
top of each should be broad and well rounded; the 
ground color of the flower at the bottom of the cup 
should be clear white or yellow; and the various rich 
colored stripes, which are the principal ornament of a 
fine Tulip, should be regular, bold and distinct on the 
margin, and terminated in fine broken points, elegantly 
feathered or penciled. The center of each leaf or petal 
should contain one or more bold blotches or stripes, 
intermixed with small portions of the original or breeder 


286 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


color, abruptly broken into many irregular, obtuse points. 
Some florists are of the opinion that the central stripes 
or blotches do not contribute to the beauty and elegance 
of the Tulip, unless confined to narrow stripes exactly 
down the center, and that they should be perfectly free 
from any remains of the breeder or original color. It is 
certain that such appear very beautiful and delicate, 
especially when they have a regular, narrow feathering 
at the edge; but the greatest connoisseurs in this flower 
unanimously agree that it denotes superior merit, when 
the Tulip abounds with rich coloring, distributed in a 
distinct and regular manner throughout the flower, 
except in the bottom of the cup, which, it cannot be dis- 
puted, should be a clear, bright white or yellow, free 
from stain or tinge, in order to constitute a perfect 
flower. 

These views are from the highest standpoint of the 
florists’ skill and taste; we give them to show the 
thought that has been given the Tulip in the way of 
selection, without, for a moment, departing from our 
original opinion, that the most natural form is the most 
beautiful form. And then, again, are not the florists’ 
forms simply a selection of natural forms, so long as 
they are normal; that is, capable of reproduction by 
nature’s own processes? The Late Flowering, or Show 
Tulips are classified as follows : 

Bybloemen.—This has white ground, lined, marked, 
striped or variegated with violet or purple, only of vari- 
ous shades, and whether feathered or flamed, is distin- 
guished by the same characters and marks as the Bizarre 
Tulip. | 

Bizarre.—Distinguished by yellow grounds, marked 
with purple or scarlet of different shades. It is called 
“flamed,” when a broad, irregular stripe runs up the 
middle of the petals, with short, abrupt, projecting 
points branching out on each side; fine narrow lines, 


ae LPN ; 


- Petrone 


“ee eee 


TULIP. 287 


called ‘‘arched” and ‘‘ribbed,” often extend from this 
broad stripe to the extremity of the leaves, the color 
generally appearing strongest in the inside petals. A 
Tulip with this broad colored stripe, which is sometimes 
called ‘‘beamed,” or ‘‘splashed,” is, at the same time, 
“‘feathered” also. It is called “‘ feathered” when it is 
without this broad stripe, but yet having narrow lines 
joined or detached, running up the center of the leaf, 
sometimes branching out and curved towards the top, 
and sometimes without any spot or line at all; the petals 
are feathered more or less around the edges or margin, 
inside and out; the penciling, or feathering, is heavy or 
broad in some, and light and narrow in others, some- 
times with breaks or gaps, and sometimes close, and con- 
tinued all around. 

Rose, or Rosy on White.—Variegated with rose, 
scarlet, crimson or cherry color, on a white ground; and 
the feathered rose is to be distinguished from the flamed 
by the rules already mentioned; the rose is very often 
both feathered and flamed. Of the three classes here 
named, the last is decidedly to be preferred ; its colors 
are more in harmony with the season; they are spring- 
like and cheery, while the others, though gorgeous and 
rich, seem better fitted for autumn. 

Selfs.—These are the Breeder, or Mother Tulips; 
the flowers are without markings, but with a yellow base, 
the upper portion of the petals being seli-colored, brown, 
red, purple, scarlet, white, yellow or rose, with every 
shade these colors are capable of producing; it is even 
claimed that in this class has been found some that are 
black. 

In the four classes it is much better, because 
cheaper, to buy mixed bulbs; they are all grown from 
named sorts, or, at least, they are mainly so, and will 
give as much satisfaction as the higher priced sorts. If 
we could have but one class it would be the Selfs, as we 


288 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


admire neutral tints; our next choice would be the Rose 
Tulips, for reasons before stated. 

Single Early Tulips.—The early flowering Tulips 
are mostly descendants from 7. precox and T. oculus- 
solis, and these vary but little in specific characters. 
T. Gesneriana is also accredited with the parentage of 
many of the sorts. The fact is, but little is Known of 
the origin of these early forms. It is sufficient to know 
that in this class we have a far greater number of varie- 
ties, embracing every form and color, than in the preced- 
ing class, and that they are far more easy of cultivation ; 
much cheaper, and more showy in the garden. Their 
flowers have a dazzling brightness, but are wanting in 
that richness and substance that marks the late varieties. 
Their earliness is a great point in their favor, as a suc- 
cession can be kept up for two or three weeks before the 
late flowering kinds appear. They are, moreover, very 
useful for forcing, either for house decorations in pots, 
or for florists’ use as cut flowers. 

The nomenclature of the single early Tulips has 
been sadly abused; on an average there are, at least, 
three aliases for each name, which is, to say the least, a 
little bit confusing, although the harm done to the gar- 
den may not be serious, but to the florist it is quite 
another matter, as earliness is altogether important. A 
flower that comes two weeks earlier than its alias, will 
give him a profit, while the latter, although exactly the 
same, to all external appearances, would prove a loss. 
For instance, take the class known as Duc van Thol (of 
which we shall make special mention), of which there 
are pure yellow, white, scarlet and variegated forms, all 
of which are used extensively by the florists for forcing, 
few others doing as well for the purpose. For these 
many other sorts are substituted, by the Dutch mer- 
chants, at the request of their customers. We know 
this to be the case, as we have had propositions from 


TULIP. QL29 


them to do it. Last year we had a proposition to fur- 
nish about one hundred thousand bulbs for public parks; 
the list included more than a dozen named sorts; we 
presented the same to the dealers in Holland, who said 
they could not furnish the list, and would not try, 
because others would substitute the same colors for a 
much less price, and would get the order; at the same 
time the bulbs would not give satisfaction, because there 
would be no uniformity in the period of flowering. The 
result was as they stated ; cheaper sorts were used, and 
the desired effect of masses of color in contrast was lost. 

In the public parks, as well as in the flower garden, 
the early forms have a decided advantage over the late 
flowering sorts, as they are gone in time to have their 
places filled with bedding plants, which last until killed 
by frost. The late tulips would not be done flowering 
until the season is too far advanced to put in many sorts 
of bedding plants, with a fair prospect of success. 

The relative difference between the early and late 
sorts of Tulips is truthfully stated by Shirley Hibbard, 
an acknowledged authority, as follows: ‘‘The Tulips 
to which the florists give attention now are late Tulips 
exclusively ; they can see no merit in the early ones, and 
from their point of view, there can be no question as to 
the soundness of their choice. The early Tulips give us 
none of the rare pencilings of flames and feathers; the 
pure white basis proper toa Tulip of high breeding, is 
unknown amongst them; and the short Tozza form, 
smooth and evenly expanded, like Hebe’s cup, they can- 
not show, consequently, the early Tulips have been 
thrown out of the select catalogue, and the lovers of gay 
flowers, who care little for fanciful markings that are 
very costly, but care much for abundant color at a low 
price, may be fully gratified, and, after all, may still 
congratulate themselves that the cheap early Tulips were, 
once upon a time, valued above rubies, and that only 

19 


290 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


wealthy persons could afford to use them for the adorn- 
ment of their gardens.” 

Varieties for the Garden.—In making a selec- 
tion for the garden, we should depart from the rule laid 
down for the late flowering sorts, and select named vari- 
eties, as. the mixtures vary so much in height and time 
of flowering, as well as in colors, that a good effect can- 
not be produced with them. ‘The following are among 
the best, and will give every desired form and color: 

Artus.—Brilliant dark scarlet, very handsome and 
effective. 

Brutus.—The earliest scarlet, vivid in color, with 
a very slight yellow feather on the edges. A low priced 
sort. 

Duc van Thol.—Scarlet, is an inestimable bed- 
ding Tulip, dwarf, of fine color and very cheap. 

Couleur Cardinal.—A splendid bedding Tulip, 
having a most unusual dwarf and rigid habit; the flow- 
ers are of a rich dark red, with a vivid crimson feather 
on the edges; it is a little late in blooming, but serves a 
useful purpose in keeping up a succession of bloom. 

Belle Alliance.—Crimson scarlet; dwarf, early, 
and lasts well. 

Canary Bird.—Clear rich yellow; early. 

Chrysolora.—One of the earliest, deep yellow, 
large and handsome. One of the best. 

Keizers-Kroon.—Bright shining red, broadly edged 
with deep yellow, magnificent for any purpose ; a bed of 
this variety alone is simply gorgeous. 

Lac van Rhyn.—Dark violet, silver white margin. 

Pottebakker.—Pure white, large, handsome, and 
early. ) 

Queen Victoria.—Rosy white, very effective. 

Rose Gris-de-lin.—Rose, shaded with white, very 
fine. 

The list could be extended to almost any limit, but 


TULIP. 291 


the above are all that can be desired by the amateur. A 
list for pots and for forcing in the greenhouse will be 
found on another page. 

Duc van Thol Tulips.—This is a distinct class, 
known by the botanists as 7. swaveolens, and is one of 
the most generally grown, either in the garden, in pots 
in the house, or by the florists for cut flowers, because it 
is one of the earliest. The true Duc van Thol Tulip 
may always be known by its fragrance, as indicated by 
its specific name, swaveolens. ‘The varieties are white, 
yellow, scarlet, vermilion and variegated. ‘There is of 
it, also, a double form, yellow and scarlet, and if any of 
the double forms are to be tolerated in the garden, this 
one should have a place; it is showy and effective. Of 
this class there are many counterfeits; the varieties of 
T. oculus-solis, bearing the closest resemblance, are fre- 
quently substituted for it. 

Parrot Tulips.—These are not in good repute 
with the Tulip growers, who consider them degenerate 
forms of 7. Gesneriana, and some of the growers assert 
that they are all sports, and that it is not an uncommon 
occurrence to meet them in their highly prized named 
sorts. Without regard to their parentage, they certainly 
have come to stay, as they propagate freely, and remain 
true to colors. The so-called Dragon Tulips are the 
most striking, in many respects. The petals are curi- 
ously laciniated or slashed, the colors rich and varied, 
and the form, especially before the flower opens, some- 
what resembles the neck or beak of the parrot, from 
whence it derives its popular name. They have a strik- 
ing and singular effect in the garden, because of their 
unique forms and strangely contrasted colors. There 
are but few varieties, none too many for even a small 
garden. We give them as follows: 

Admiral de Constantinople. — Red, striped 
orange. 


292 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


Coffee Colored Crimson.—Yellow and green, 
finely marked. 

Luteo Major (Large yellow).—Finely marked with 
purple and green. 

Rubro Major (Monster Range).— Very large, 
bright crimson, extra fine flower. 

Mark Graaf van Baden (Markgrave of Baden).— 
Red, green and yellow, very showy. 

We advise the planting of the named varieties of 
these, as our experience with them is, that the mixed 
varieties are not mixed; that but two or three distinct 
sorts are all that are usually to be found in the so-called 
mixtures. As variety is especially desirable in this pecu- 
liar class, and as the bulbs are not expensive, named 
sorts only should be used. 

Double Tulips.—In both the early and late sorts 
there are double forms, which are valued highly by some, 
not only for their display, but because they continue 
longer in bloom than the single forms. The following 
list includes the most desirable for bedding purposes: 


EARLY DOUBLE TULIPS. 


Blanc Bordé Pourpre.—Violet, white edge. 

Duc van Thol.—Yellow and red, dwarf. 

Duke of York.—Bronze crimson, buff margin. 

Gloria Solis.—Bronze crimson, bordered with 
yellow. 

Imperator Rubrorum.—Bright: scarlet, showy. 

La Candeur.—Pure white, very fine. 

Rex Rubrorum.—Brilliant scarlet, one of the best. 

Rosine.—Splendid rose. 

Salvator Rosa.—Dark purple rose. 

Tournesol Red.—Scarlet, with yellow border. 

Tournesol Yellow.—Fine clear yellow, slightly 
tinged with purple. 

Velvet Gem.—Dark carmine, very beautiful. 


TULIP. 293 


LATE DOUBLE TULIPS. 

Belle Alliance. — White, feathered with violet 
crimson. 

Bonaparte.—Chocolate brown. 

Couronne des Roses.—Red and white. 

Marriage de Ma Fille.—Pure white striped with 
rose. 

Overwinnaar.—White, with purplish blue stripes, 
fine. 

Princess Alexandria.—Red, margined with yel- 
low, dwarf. 

Miscellaneous Tulips.—With many the growing 
of the species is a pleasing feature in gardening; it mat- 
ters not what the plant may be, there is a curiosity to 
know from whence our varieties sprung. This is partic- 
ularly true of the Tulip. This taste is on the increase, 
and we find some of the species quite commonly culti- 
vated. Among them are the following, all worthy a 
place in the garden: 

T. Clusiana (Lady Tulip).—A very beautiful spe- 
cies with white flowers, which are pink at the back, and 
have a black ring in the center. It was introduced very 
early. Gerarde mentions it in 1597, calling it the Persian 
Tulip. It is found wild in Italy, Sicily, Portugal and 
Spain, and it is highly deserving of cultivation, although 
it is somewhat difficult to manage ; it must be grown in 
a dry situation, and be protected against frost. 

T. cornuta (Horned Tulip).—This very singular 
Tulip is more curious than beautiful; the petals are 
very long and pointed. It is well worth growing, not 
only for its remarkable appearance, but also for the long 
time it continues in flower. It flowers rather later than 
the common Tulips. It is a native of the Levant, 
whence it was introduced in 1816. It is perfectly hardy. 

T. Gesneriana.—Already described on Page 283, 
as the parent of our show, or late flowering Tulips. 


294 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


T. australis (Celsiana).—A native of Siberia; 
flowers star-shaped, deep yellow, flat, opening nearly six 
inches across ; very fragrant. 

T. Greigii.—A species or recent introduction, na- 
tive of Turkestan, from whence it was introduced in 
1873, by Herr Max Leichtlin, who says the bulbs are so 
extremely hardy that they will withstand freezing and 
thawing with impunity, and that even when the leaves 
are half grown they will endure a temperature as low as 
that of zero without any protection. The plant is a vig- 
orous grower, attaining a height of from nine to fifteen 
inches, bearing a solitary flower from four to six inches 
in diameter, goblet-shaped, generally of a vivid orange- 
scarlet color, with black spots on yellow ground at the 
base of the petals. The foliage is broad, lively green, 
heavily spotted with brown. A very desirable species. 

T. silvestris.—Of this there are several varieties, 
with white, yellow or rose colored flowers, some of which 
are slightly shaded with purple; delightfully fragrant ; 
common in France and many other parts of the continent. 

T. oculus-solis.—This species is nearly allied to 
T. Gesneriana, but is easily distinguished by its black 
center, which gives it the popular name, Sun’s Eye. 
The flowers are always erect, and without fragrance ; 
opening so as to forma large cup. Native of Northern 
Italy, and some parts of France. 

T. persica.—A native of Persia, resembling the 
Duce van Thol Tulip. 

Cultivation of the Tulip.—We usually consider 
the Tulip to be a hardy bulb, capable of enduring 
almost any amount of freezing without injury. Im our 
changeable climate there is, however, some danger of 
injury from contraction and expansion of soil, caused by 
freezing and thawing. It is, therefore, better to protect 
the bulbs by a slight mulching of leaves, sufficient to 
prevent the frost from penetrating the earth below the 
base of the bulbs. 


ad 


GOP pee 


TULIP. 295 


The Tulip is not at all particular as regards soil; it 
will grow to perfection in the lght sand of Holland, 
and we have had as large and handsome flowers as ever 
grew, from bulbs in the heaviest clay. The only differ- 
ence is that a light loamy or sandy soil can be kept in 
better condition than a heavy one, and in such there 
will be a more rapid increase. In preparing a bed for 
Tulips, care should be taken to have it so shaped that it 
will shed water, which is a greater injury to the bulbs 
than frost. The soil should be worked deep and made 
rich. It would be better to plant the bulbs in Septem- 
ber; but that is not practicable, as the space they are to 
occupy is already filled with autumn flowers, which can- 
not be disturbed until after frost. Therefore, planting 
must be deferred until the ground is vacant, then put in 
the bulbs without delay. If the soil is heavy, put the 
bulbs three inches below the surface ; if light, put them 
four inches below; and six inches apart each way. If 
protected, as they should be, rake off the covering as 
soon as vegetation starts, as the Tulip is one of the first 
plants to appear. It will well repay the cost to throw a 
straw mat over the bed whenever there is danger of 
freezing, to protect the buds, and remove the mat dur- 
ing the day, whenever the weather will permit. When 
the flowers appear, if they are protected from the sun by 
a light canvas, say three or four feet above the flowers, 
their period of bloom will be greatly lengthened. The 
colors are generally better when not shaded, but a single 
day’s hot sun will greatly shorten their existence. As 
soon as convenient after the flowers begin to fade, they 
should be cut away and removed from the bed. When 
the leaves begin to turn yellow, take up the bulbs and 
heel them in for a few days, or until they get thoroughly 
dry; a partially shaded situation is preferable. After 
they are dry, place them on a shelf for a few days, then 
put them in paper bags until time for planting again 


296 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


arrives. The offsets may be planted in the vegetable 
garden, or in any convenient place where they can receive 
good cultivation, and most of them will bloom the 
second year. 

Tulips From Seed.—Tulips can be successfully 
grown in many parts of our country, from seed, but not 
profitably, because of the length of time required to 
grow them large enough to flower, which is from five to 
seven years. It is, however, a fascinating work. The 
seed should be saved from the best flowers, and sown in 
light soil in a frame, where it can be protected against 
too hard freezing, and from being washed out by storms; 
this should be done as soon as the seed is thoroughly 
ripe. ‘The first year, bulbs about the size of peas will be 
produced ; these must be grown on in the same manner 
as flowering bulbs, taking them up when ripe, and re- 
planting in autumn. When their time for flowering 
arrives the grower’s curiosity will be intense, and not 
without reason; his long years of patient industry are to 
be rewarded ; how well or how poorly he is anxious to 
know. Fortunate will he be if his Tulips are up to the 
average, as not one in a hundred seedlings is considered 
worthy of propagation. One thing is certain, all of 
them will be sure to please him. Then he must wait 
another series of years, from one to five, to see if his 
Tulips break into new and desirable markings. Whether 
anything remarkable has been produced or not, the 
excitement attending the effort will be enjoyable. 

Tulips in Pots.—There are no more pleasing 
bulbs for the window garden than the Single Early 
Tulips, when well grown, as they can be with as little 
trouble as in the growing of any other class of bulbs. 
Put three in a five inch pot filled with ordinary garden 
soil; let the top of the bulb be just even with the sur- 
face of the soil; water thoroughly, and plunge the pot 
in a cold frame, or in a convenient place in the garden ; 


TULIP. 297 


cover with ashes, or soil, and, above all, protect against 
freezing, so that the pots can be reached when wanted ; 
bring into the house about the middle of December, and 
at intervals of two weeks, for a succession; give them 
plenty of light, water and air, and in the ordinary living 
room they will come into flower in about six weeks. 
After flowering, throw the bulbs away, as they are not 
worth the cost of growing on until they bloom again. 

Tulips For Cut Flowers.—For several years past 
Tulips have been popular winter and early spring flowers. 
In the vicinity of New York several millions have been 
grown annually; too many, indeed, for the markets 
were oyer-stocked, which made the industry unprofitable. 
Many are yet grown, and will continue to be, because 
they are well adapted for decorative purposes, and can 
be produced cheaper than almost any other flowers. For 
this purpose they are grown in precisely the same man- 
ner as the Roman Hyacinth. The bulbs are put into 
flats as soon as received, or as soon thereafter as conven- 
ient, and placed in racks in a cool, dark shed. The first 
are brought in about the middle of December, and 
forced into bloom by Christmas. A succession is kept 
up as required. The following sorts are best for pot 
culture or for the greenhouse : 


SINGLE TULIPS FOR FORCING. 


Duc van Thol.—In variety. 
Chrysolora.—Yellow. 

Le Matelas.—Deep rose, flushed white. 
Pottebakker.— White, scarlet and yellow. 
Rose Luisante.—Fine deep rose. 

Rose Gris-de-lin.— White, striped with rose. 
Vermilion Brilliant.— Dazzling scarlet. 


DOUBLE VARIETIES FOR FORCING, 


La Candeur.—White, very double. 
Murillo.—Rosy white. 


298 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


Duc van Thol.—Yellow and red variegated. 

Tournesol.—Red and yellow. — 

There are numerous other varieties used for forcing, 
each florist having a favorite. Those possessing the 
most positive colors, either scarlet, yellow or white, find 
the readiest sale. The same are preferable for the win- 
dow garden. 


TYDEA. 


A section of the genus Achimenes, Page 1. 


URCEOLINA. 


U. pendula and a variety, aurea, belonging to 
this small genus of very pretty bulbs, are found growing 
in dense shade in the Peruvian Andes. The flowers are 
yellow, tinged with red, and with a bright green edge. 
They have strange markings. The variety, awrea, has 
yellow flowers, with less conspicuous markings. They 
thrive in a shaded border, flowering in summer, but the 
bulbs require to be taken up in autumn, and kept very 
dry and warm during winter. They are increased by 
offsets, the new bulbs pushing a considerable distance 
away from the old ones. U. miniata (Pentlandia) has 
scarlet nodding flowers. 


URGINEA. 


The medicinal Squills is obtained from U. maritima. 
The cultivation is the same as for Scilla, Page 272. 


UROPETALUM. 


A small genus of Cape bulbs formerly included in 
Hyacinthus and Lachenalia. They have no real beauty, 
but are occasionally seen in collections of curious plants. 
This genus is now called Dipcodi. 


VALLOTA. 
See Page 23. 


VELTHEIMIA—WACHENDORFIA,. 299 


VELTHEIMIA. 


A considerable genus of strong-growing Cape bulbs, 
of little beauty, but remarkable for the duration of their 
period of blooming. They are strictly greenhouse bulbs, 
and should be grown in sandy loam. They flower in 
winter, and require complete rest in summer. Propaga- 
tion by seeds; the bulbs rarely make offsets, 


VIEUSSEUXIA. 
See Morea, Page 235. 


WACHENDORFIA. 


A genus of strong-growing Cape bulbs, with showy 
flowers, very unlike those of most of the kinds of bulbous- 
rooted plants. The Wachendorfias can, in fact, scarcely 
be called bulbous plants, although they are generally 
classed with these plants in trade catalogues, and are 
propagated by bulb-like offsets. They bloom in summer, 
and their Ixia-like flowers are very showy. 

W. brevifolia.—Differing from the, other species 
in having evergreen leaves. It must, however, have a 
- season of rest. The stem is not more than a foot high, 
and the panicle is large and full of flowers. The flowers 
are of a very singular color, and without fragrance. 
The leaves are short and very broad, with deep folds. 
This species is worth growing, notwithstanding the 
dingy hue of the flowers, from their abundance, and the 
compact habit of growth of the whole plant. The lover 
of neutral tints would see much in this flower to admire. 


WATSONIA. 


A large genus of half-hardy Cape of Good Hope 
bulbs formerly included in Gladiolus, to which some of 
the species are nearly allied. They are all tall-growing, 
showy flowers, requiring the same treatment as the Glad- 
iolus (Page 116). The flowers are generally very showy, 


300 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


but they differ very much in shape, as well as color, some 
of the kinds being tube-shaped, others funnel-shaped, 
and some salver-shaped. The kinds most nearly allied to 
the Gladiolus are the handsomest, because of the large 
size of their flowers, and the brilliancy of their colors. 
They are rapidly increased from seeds, which are pro- 
duced freely, and by offsets. The bulbs should be kept 
dry during winter the same as the Gladiolus (Page 115). 

The aphis or plant louse, the red spider, and the 
scale insect, may be killed by washing with soapsuds, or 
quassia infusion. Fumigation with tobacco smoke is, 
perhaps, the best remedy. All insects may be killed 
with kerosene emulsion, or with pyrethrum or white 
hellebore. The most desirable of the species are : 

W. angusta.—Bright scarlet flowers, produced 
abundantly in June ; one of the handsomest of the species. 

W. humilis.—A dwarf and very pretty plant; the 
flowers are large and showy, of a beautiful rose color. 

W. marginata.—A very splendid, Ixia-like plant, 
with a long spike of densely-crowded pink flowers. 
This is the only one of the species with fragrant flowers. 
It is a native of the low, sandy hills of the Cape of Good - 
Hope, where it grows in abundance. 

W. Meriana.—A very beautiful species with dark 
flesh colored flowers. Named in honor of Sybilla Merian, 
a lady celebrated for her skill as an artist and her knowl- 
edge as a naturalist. 


WILD HYACINTH. 


See Camassia Fraseri, Page 52, and Scilla nutans, 
Page 273. 


WINTER ACONITE.. 
The popular name of Hranthis hyemalis, Page 86. 


ZEPHYRANTHES. 
See Page 25. Grouped with Amaryllidacee. 


DISEASES AND OTHER ENEMIES, 301 


ZYMOTIC OR FUNGUS DISEASES AND OTHER 
ENEMIKS. ' 


By reason of the large supply of plant-food stored 
in bulbs and tubers, the resulting plants are able to 
make a very rapid growth, and, consequently, rarely 
suffer from attacks of fungi or insects. Hence bulbs 
and tuberous-rooted plants seldom require applications 
of either dry or liquid fungicides, or insecticides. Con- 
cerning the destructive fungi, Dr. Byron D. Halsted, of 
the New Jersey Experiment Station, writes in the Amer- 
ican Agriculturist as follows: 

The Lilies, which may, by right, take the lead 
among bulbous ornamental plants, have several leaf 
blights, among which are Spherella cinzia, Sacc., Phyl- 
losticta liliicola, Sace., Cylindrosporium inconspicuum, 
Wint., and Cercosporella liliicola (R), Sacc. But it is 
among the rusts that we have more conspicuous and 
sometimes destructive species of fungi. Thus, upon 
Lilies there may be Uromyces erythroni (D. C.), Pass., 
with a wide range of hosts, from the Crown Imperial to 
the plebeian Onion; Uromyces lilii, Clint., is a species 
found first on leaves of Liliwm candidum, at Buffalo, 
N. Y., and might be called the American Lily Rust, to 
distinguish it from some of the others. Two species of 
cluster cup fungi are recorded from the Lilies, one #eid- 
wum Safianoffarum, Thum., on the Martagon Lily, in 
Siberia, and Mecidium convallarie, Schm., which flour- 
ishes upon a wide list of the Liliaceous groups of plants. 
While this is by no means the full list of the fungi 
attacking the Lilies, it suffices to show that there are 
many enemies, possibly the worst of which is to be men- 
tioned later. 

The Hyacinth, in like manner, has several destruc- 
tive fungi, among which are Dictyuchus monosporus, 


302 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


Seitg., closely related to the Pythiwms, which are among 
the worst enemies known upon the potting bench or in 
the greenhouse. osellinia Massinkii, Sacc., thrives 
upon the bulbs, while, perhaps, the worst of all, is Baczi- 


re 
4 
“$ 
~t 
? 
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eee 


LILY ATTACKED BY BOTRYTIS 
FUNGUS. 


lus hyacinth, Wakk., 
Trev., which is known 
as the Hyacinth Disease, 
and will be considered 
later. 

The Tulips have two 
species of the rust, name- 
ly, Puccima tulipa, 
Schw., and P. Prostit, 
Mong., both thriving 
upon the leaves. There 
is a smut, Ustilago tulipa 
(H.), Wint., of the Tulip, 
as the specific name indi- 
cates. Not the least de- 
structive, particularly to 
the bulbs, is a gray mold, 
Botrytis parasitica, Cav., 
which is closely related. 
to the Botrytis causing 
the trouble among Lilies, 
known as the Lily Dis- 
ease. (See engraving. ) 

The Narcissus has a 
rust preying upon it, 
namely, Puccinia Schroe- 
thert, Pass., that some- 
times is quite destructive 
to the Narcissus poeticus. 


A rust upon the Crocus is known to science as Uromyces 
croct, Pass., affecting the foliage in particular. The 
Gladiolus has a rust, Urocystis gladioli (R), Sm., upon 


DISEASES AND OTHER ENEMIES. 303 


its bulbs; a rust, Pwecinia gladioli, Cast., upon the 
leaves, and several blights; as, for example, Spherella 
fusca, Pass., upon the foliage. Enough has been given 
to show that the bulbous ornamental plants are not 
exempt from the fungus troubles that other cultivated 
plants are heir to. 

Returning now to the ty Disease so called, we find 
it an old destructive enemy. It has been studied exten- 
sively by H. Marshall Ward, who gives it a whole ae 
ter in his work Boe a 
‘Diseases of Plants.” 
The same subject was 
investigated by Mr. A. 
S. Kean, formerly a 
student in my labora- 
tory,in Bermuda, where 
the growing of Lilies 
is a leading industry, , yfugek 
and the disease is a @eseehurs 
serious menace. His ‘sx 
results were published, 
with a large plate, in 
the Botanical Gazette BOTRYTIS FUNGUS, MAGNIFIED. 
for January, 1890. Professor Ward calls the Lily Disease 
one of the most annoying pests that the horticulturist 
has had to trouble him of late years. The trouble first 
shows itself as small rusty spots upon the buds and 
leaves, and by their enlarging the blossoms are ruined. 
The engraving on Page 302 shows the upper portion of 
a Lily plant, with the four buds badly attacked by the 
Botrytis fungus. This Botrytis consists of coarse 
threads, which run in all directions through the attacked 
tissue, and finally appear upon the surface as upright 
branched stalks, bearing multitudes of spores. A mag- 
nified view of a section of the diseased tissue is shown 
in the engraving on this page. 


304 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


This form of mold is common upon many plants, 
and at times is very destructive to root crops, as Turnip 
and Carrot. The Onion, another bulbous plant, is often 
attacked by the same or a similar gray mold (Botrytis). 
The multitudes of spores borne upon the tips of the 
branches germinate quickly, and, when lymg upon the 
surface of a Lily Jeaf, will bore their tubes through the 
epidermis, as illustrated on this page. When once inside, 
the thread increases in size, and grows rapidly in length, 
branching and causing decay as it pushes along. After 
the Botrytis fungus has grown for a while it may pro- 
duce dark, hard bodies, by a peculiar twisting and knot- 


A t 
00 
60, [ 
Poa 
OR 
809 
/} 
Bat Aver, 


1] ANTS 


Ly 
ad ae 
Velde 
\ 
s\ 


he 
\ 


BOTRYTIS ON LILY LEAF, MAGNIFIED. 


ting of its threads. These dark masses, or sclerotia, 
remain uninjured through the winter, and when spring 
comes they produce peculiar trumpet-shaped outgrowths, 
as shown on Page 306, which finally give rise to multitudes 
of spores. These are set free, and, finding their way to 
the young Lily, produce the destructive gray mold again. 
These spores, by their large numbers and quick growth, 
show how it is possible for the Lily Disease to spread 
rapidly. The Botrytis is fond of moisture, and in a dry 
season the Lilies may generally escape; while, if the 
weather is damp, the destruction may be great. Mr. 
Kean suggests, as a remedy, ‘‘The planting of some 
other crop in alternate rows, which, with high and 


DISEASES AND OTHER ENEMIES. 305 


spreading foliage, will prevent the collection of the dew 
upon the leaves, and thus check the fungus, so depend- 
ent upon moisture for its propagation.” 

The Hyacinth Disease proper is ascribed to a micro- 
scopic organism, cylindrical in shape, and about four 
times as long as broad. Walker, who has studied this 
destructive disease extensively, named the germ Bacte- 
rium hyacinthi, and brief accounts of the species may 
be found in the leading works on bacteriology, as in 
Sternberg, under Bacillus hyacinthi septicus, Page 651. 
The germs are, in appearance, almost identical with 
those of many diseases of a contagious nature among 
animals and man. This is only one of many instances 
when a species of the higher plants is a victim to the 
ravages of one or more of the microscopic organisms, 
also vegetable in nature; the Sorghum Blight and the 
fire bight of Pears being two other examples. The Hy- 
acinth bulbs that are affected with the above named bac- 
terium, when cut through with a knife, show small pits 
filled with a yellow mucilage. It is in this slime that 
the micro-organism in question abounds. At the time 
of flowering, the diseased plants in the field show yellow 
streaks in the leaves, prominent at the base, and disap- 
pearing toward the tip. In these yellow lines the bac- 
teria swarm, in a slime which resembles that of the 
bulbs. It will be seen that little needs be said in way of 
description of the Hyacinth Disease, and there is not 
much yet to write as to the treatment. A bulb that 
exhibits the yellow slime in cross section would, if set in 
the field, produce a diseased plant. The nature of the 
malady is such that the application of fungicides for sick 
plants, while not without hope, does not promise great 
things. Careful watching for the disease and rejecting 
affected bulbs are the chief remedial agents. 

There is a black rot of the Hyacinth, also found 
upon Narcissus and Scilla bulbs, that is probably a first 

20 


306 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


cousin of the Lily Disease, if not the same thing. It has 
the hard, dark masses, or sclerotia, and the other struc- 
tures mentioned with the Botrytis (see engraving), and 
is probably Sclerotinia (Peziza) bulborum, Wak. 

The gummosis, so called, of the Hyacinth, also com- 
mon to the Tulip and Ixia bulbs, has lkewise been 
studied by Walker. The pure white gum pockets are 
found mostly between the epidermis and tissue below, 
the starch being replaced 
with gum by a process of 
degeneration. These gum- 
bearing cells may imecrease 
“4s, abnormally in size. Walker 
eee) concludes that this gum- 
“ mosis and the ‘white rot” 
of Hyacinths are the same 
thing, and, having failed to 
produce the abnormal con- 
dition artificially by inoculation, affirms that there is no 
indication of the cause being due to a parasite of any 
kind. This last trouble seems, therefore, a purely physi- 
ological one, and there are many such among plants liy- 
ing under the pressure of high culture. 

The necessity for uninfected soil and healthy bulbs 
is thus shown by Dr. Halsted. In such cases it is also 
useful, according to Dr. William C. Sturgis, of the 
Connecticut Experiment Station, to thoroughly wash all 
implements used in infested ground, to burn all diseased 
plants, and, if possible, to burn over the ground on 
which they grew. As soon as noticed all diseased plants 
should be removed and burned immediately. For dis- 
eases of the leaves and other portions above ground, 
some of the usual fungicides may be found useful. Dr. 
Charles H. Peck, State Botanist of New York, describes 
their preparation as follows: The Bordeaux mixture, 
diluted to half the original strength, is made by dissolv- 
ing six pounds of powdered copper sulphate in ten gal- 


BOTRYTIS SCLEROTIUM. 


ble e.. 


DISEASES AND OTHER ENEMIES, 307 


lons of water. Slake four pounds of lime in five gallons 
of water. When cool, strain the line water into the 
copper solution and add thirty gallons of water, making 
forty-five gallons of the mixture. If desirable to poison 
insects at the same time, four ounces of Paris green or 
London purple may be added to this amount of the mix- 
ture. The ammoniacal copper carbonate solution, also 
diluted to half the original strength, is made by adding 
to five ounces of copper carbonate enough water to make 
a thick paste. On this pour three pints of strong aqua 
ammonia, or enough to dissolve the paste. Add forty- 
five gallons of water. Paris green should not be used 
with this. To make the potassium sulphide solution, 
dissolve one ounce of potassium sulphide in two gallons 
of water. For larger quantities of any of the solutions 
use the same proportions. The treatment of insects by 
pyrethrum or insect powder, and by arsenites, and the 
remedies for other pests, are given throughout this vol- 
ume, in the descriptions of the plants they attack. 

For the remedial treatment of tubers and bulbs 
affected with injurious fungi, the successful researches 
on the Potato-scab fungus, by Prof. H. L. Bolley, of 
the North Dakota Experiment Station, are very sugges- 
tive. He succeeded in killing the fungus spores and 
raised a crop of healthy tubers, by treating the washed 
seed tubers to a ninety minutes’ immersion in a weak 
solution, one part in one thousandth, of corrosive subli- 
mate or mercuric bichloride. Two ounces of this deadly 
poison, finely pulverized by the pharmacist, were dis- 
solved in two gallons of hot water for twelve hours, in a 
vessel not made of metal, and then diluted with thirteen 
more gallons of cold water. The cleaned and washed 
tubers were then soaked in this solution for one hour 
and a half. Caution should be used, as the solution is 
poisonous. ‘The best preventive of all plant diseases is a 
vigorous growth, brought about by healthful conditions 
of fertility, moisture and sunlight. 


INDEX. 


AGCHIMENES weiss. .Gs Sean i ; Calochorius....---.---5---e eee ee 49 
Species .....-.----+.-.-------- 3 | Caloscordum: 2. ..-2-eeeeeeee eee *.50 
VATICUICS pie on os ce Socenieree os 3 | Calosiemma:..<5-osseeee eee ee 50 

A CISK lke ke Besieois Nem sisi owis ogee 4) CantasSia;-3-p <>... 52 

Adders? Tengue . ose ese 88 | Cannas... .5520 -s55he eee 52 

Adrican Avies): 2.0 e cece ese cece 5 | Cape Bullbs!s 22-0. 2 s-e eee 166-168 

Agapanthus : .c.njccsertniece enya 5 | Cape Cowstps..--< 22 -eeenerne = 168 

Aamo s2 Se ssid «os Soaps sees 7 | CarpolysSa: : 252. .s25seee emer oe 58 

ATCA 36. telson oe eae ee 9 | Checkered Bily.)--5-ces=eeeeee 92 

Aloeasia macrorhiza............ 59 | Chinese Sacred Lily ............ 240 

AAMAT VATS Soo) 8 aise Jaa oes en ene 10} Chiidanthus)...;-/2-2-4---eseee ee 58 
AtamaseOn ce. <eaecseise see 2 Choretis 2... 5-...-- see eeeeeeeees 58 
Candida (522.5.50 eee ay Climbing Dily, -J..2..-55e-ee 130 

ATAMOCRATIS Sisco as iets esse Clive . <0 S i sso2 sense eee eee 58 

Ammonia—copper solution .... 307 Cobureia:.<2ka. ce see eee 58 

AMNEMONEY.5 .1congsh aoe eens 21 | Colchicum). 55. -soscceecee eee 59 

AMOMAUReGCAa «sabe sss cee eee 30:| Colocasia:c.. <2 522s eee ae 59 

Antholyzanwe.c.scsc cc sesen Se eeee 30 | Commelina, s....3.-< 35-semsee eee 61 

PAROS. 3 SME ccs sm seis. msec stuns 31-| Conanthera....-1-c.s.s eee ee ees 61 

PARAS POTN i tcc cee noe eee eee 31 | Convallaria ..... Son: Sore ek 61 

PAM MIMTR EE ADY. §. o-c.o 5iciae sciew eeeieeccr 33, 267 | CoOpeTia.=-.- css. sso see eee eee eee 66 

AGCIE PIAS) 2. dws acon sae eine 33: Corbularia....222.-5s5-eeee eee 67 

JGiGRIME RS OO TURES SGe sscosnSscidsas 5c 33'| Corn Plags-:-.- ee ee eee 103 

IBADIADA sees oses coe noe ecee 34 | Corrosive sublimate solution .. 307 

Baby:StBreauht. co... 25-7 eee 36, 236. | Crinum. 2422.5. 5- sess eee eee 19 

Barbagdoes lailive ceca las oer 36 | CROCUS. 4.x ve oc Sacer eee 67 

Barmardiia.: $3525 c..5s0oecesseiese 36 GISCASGE. 6-53.52 6 Sos 5c 302 

Begonia (Tuberous-rooted)..... 37 Varieties 6. classes eee 70 

Belameandia chinensis......... 251) Crown Impernaili: cose sees 94 

Belladonna dhilly: 266-26 eee 5 ciel 36'| Cummineia:-—...2-5-2-eeeeeeeeee 61 

Belle yale oe cee ce oe sees 361 Cyanella. = .jtc5.2-eciess eee 71 

IBESS@TA i: Sac) ies eigen esine oe peisinaiiek 43 Cyclamen wsbis'ss Sty ASs see ees 72 

Blandfordia ois 28 sem ssi ee sea 4 SPECIES «..)5 3.5.2 s\-cins Se eee 75 

Bligh ess. .n ose. stecewens 301; 30% | Cyclobothra.-..-2..-- see eee eee 50 

Bloodshlower::- ice eee eles 136 | Cypella ...2..2..02.00-- 2 eee ee 76 

Blooadroot= 52. 5.022- pee ee ete 271-| Cyrtan thus: .<-.2. js ose 76 

Bluebelles: eee eee eee 273:| Daffodil ..... <4)55...5 eee 236 

Bordeaux Mixture - 2.2.2.) e 306 Rush (N. juncifolius)........ 242 

BOTYAAS feck eerste eee 302, 306 White Spanisi-= —--.e-e-ere- 243 

IBIAVO8 aso ss scene Eee eee 45 | Dahlia «... 2. cc oeeecn ee eee eee 76 

Bro gdizea s. Aoscsse nea ae eee 45 cultivation. ...<.2.csuseeebeeees 82 

Bruns VSIA; ics 7-5 hiss eae eee 18}, propagation:... 7-.---cseseese 82 

Bulbocedmimnae 4-2 7--- see ee eee 45 Single ..........---.---+22---- 81 

iunneeing Weed lso549d5595 55050505 33 SPECIES choc. see ee eee eee 85 

Caladivim:;-635: dhs eeemesessee ee 46} Daubenya. -.\-..-2se2) see eee “4 
HScuIentumM.. «22. secs eee = 60} Day FIOWET: «..;.0.6s-coeseeeeeeee 

Caliphruria..32 20... 2. on8 seek: 49 | Diseases: ..):.o...05s5us eee eee eee 301- 307 

Callas s.ckeenisns were sease ene 49, 267 | Dog’s Tooth Violet..-:<..--.. 5. 88 
BisgGls ass sorb: hee se eee 270 | Dragon Plant... 2.6 s sapee eee 33 
WElHOW 3s siccaicss ss seeencen aki ee 210 |: Drimia....3:.). <tc sine eee pee eee 86 

Cadiasroracanne sac gus genera. oe 49 | Dutch Bulbs..... sccveececcsevess 86 

308 


INDEX. 309. 
Mpa DALY 5... 265 eee ooo 267 | Hyacinth diseases......... 301, one : 
ISTTSSING) 05 Ga. dice AE oee Hanabeeeriae 86 1 OG Ro) Oem ere een eres Aah tenes 
IBC WMIOS aie aecis'swerels 006 50 crete wie 301-307 IDUCEHVROMA Ns. ccc a. eel ib 
IDICZU NI Ras pelos dlecadeonadoooneds 86 INSEE Ieh ee) VEBaS san dadabuancs 236 
PS PIINOG TINA Foetiere aici cilaiolais: vicleie cies eieio.0's 169 inVEN Gl GUUb Abbe AS bGonoacwoobD oC 140 
IBTOSPCSEIMMUIM! (i. icrzolsreleloie «12 ceo eles 88 garden culture..........:... 144 
IDWVilldRor welt o556 Sooo ooBUdOoUnOK 88 (Ga Seba obesadocaceanaoTpanouE 236 
IBOIVAIS years = isc v </cofee w/ele dois eines 89 Srowing in| Pots)... ..s-- 147 
PEEIN@ OTANESS, verelolavere leroy s'civ'ereisyeie tense» ae 90 SUIMIMOSISU A seis seme occ eclenrs 306 
PPO STA ses isi rimisie be sicisis o-eleislc.< ee 91 VISES SOUT Sy ciatotetemsto)elateisict cis eterstet= 233 
lOTUAWClEShaeobs sodopoco qooouucdBedd 91 WIENS) Gobd Poodomondocsicocsdade 236 
Evening Flower................. 137 IPOESUAM Sei ereiciecle a Sere bee 6 Sains 156 
AVANT UMN Faber sve le cho''c wie jeitete aioe d\sisrnie 25 propagation. 2.6. ...6..52.--. 143 
Feathered Hyacinth............ 236 COMME 81650.) tre) asics ois colar be 153 
RETO ie eciatere cove slot nislese weit Sees 91 ALDURHEO bs Goacoaagaooascec core ce 236 
PEMA SMOW CT ia.o 6 010 cele wove oes 92 VWi2uulGinKeE ocsoo sdogcoomseaadooad 149 
MANO MALY sec e cee cette cece eels 262 varieties for glasses......... 153 
Fleur de Lis or Flower de Luce 159 varieties for pots........... 153 
Divernon Mull) 0) Geecneooeeerebecme sc 92 MWe) CAS ashe codeconeoocece 97 
PEAS TUN ANSVA rcp crafayetere-svercieie s sissies ce de 92 TVG eee See cyars mevetaloversesreveisiate 52 
MMIMSICIOCS 655.0 K26 5c 28 cess oes 306, 307 WaldvAmmeri@aniy rs cle <6 ile) 51 
Fungus diseases.............. 301-307 Higa cinithnis candicans.......... 97 
CASIO A OR Acie <a roe hie Ais 0.5 Paine Oy lide higchvonee ot hy aeonnoae dncaanea acne 157 
GeAMAMGINUIS Vicia 2 ete lciclaic c= ties de ole 35) 1) Je yaonvenmoyoe wUbt Saco geen naecnoce 157, 250 
GAMARNENED opie tera fafeye b.5% sje nee ale clae'a Sis QA WLIO OAS oe he/she iets, sieiersie acess 6 158 
Gr ePMG MMM rye ject wiatels Sore s/s oin'si ow we oF) Imantophy Mum.) 662.62. oes. eae 159 
Ganymedes a qumeifolius), -.. (242 \) Indian: Shot... 0.02.06. .sccce cans 52 
SAMO ric iaarts Chia(siticlne esas vite a'e OF ingian TOPrni po. <0. sic ce ccinc ca ce 31 
EMOTO tye cies <=. l9 dre oie o.ere.t isle sires PAA AMSEC CLICIGOS w.).)., ois scale siete cis stares 307 
GAStLOMEM Aires c 0s cece seca stee 1G | LIPS OC CEG. 2: .<1i5 oie'e sie weleie ainleaioa oa Servs 307 
GEISSOMNUZ AR... scsi ence doce es QUITS so acre iiers ho ee is lara weg Omi ae 159 
Ree SIM ee Wenn, pole 'oisierese areievsid’e's) s 6 100 Chalcedonian......-2-2.2.-.. 161 
Greu by isnn nile. kreloctie wes sree dicen 100 ID ALS Noga eo oopoEoenS co beh oc 160 
GHACHIONUG cae orcs 00:6 3's Eien pai tvars aiet ste 101 Germam.. 25. os. Sem ateaseer 163 
GETETIOTAGION 06. 6)03ise chs Si 120 TAPAM CSC.) ./a1e10'm <jo1stettoons eran 164 
general cultivation of ...... 116 Keeem preril yoicci. ae << one aeietrere« 164 
TWIT aie soci s eseiclavel ieisihcle 111 IRISH oS ang ooodeoeacadc boc 161 
propagaaigy by offsets...... 115 PEACOCK csd.cs ones wees a 161 
AUIS Gs e eee MME Se cos weer ale o's 302 LOWE) 1a Olas ob coondedosoad, a! 
selecting Sead Olean eae tise 114 Tuberous-rooted............. 163 
VATE ELOS 2). 5)si c/a oticis a nic aisles DAS MUST ONY ©) ores esac leit tere = aya lolas sis ai iokeisiesisi 157 
GAORIOS Anite eset sic csiejs'siosis os ce ear USO > | RUPRTAY eareicis eid cron sialass wieroree cea a Sees 166 
COMIN A onto cca ssa sess odie 131 SUTMIMOSTSH is hc cisfeeare cee Seles 306 
GOMES WAL ici fi eee nies elders as 230 ei lexel OAT OI cia sievsie < ekeie -fo.ociciers cies eo ere 168 
Grape Hyacinth................. 236 | Jack in the Pulpit:............... 31 
GAECMMOTACON : 2. cceaccctea cee nd Blo) PAacOMCAM ALM Ys. 2.6 2. ccna «cele elec 22 
RMSE  Ccaele Sara lad 4 /acle ain's oe, sisisie'e MSP eROMOIMIA Lacs eteratststeyols ile at eiermie <\araielweye eae 242 
GPOTIANCINMUGE 21 aye Rian sens 5 Siciere S08 oly eb aehemalian se .ciceissss ree asters 168 
Guernsey, TALY:: siss8 ss isis. eke os 2A AEA CEOS TA yelre cle sielarc!sinioleleieeelaieies 169 
Guinea-Hen Flower............. 92F WCODALGUEOWiGT arr iclecls-) 2 sae 251 
DEP ANOTNAMNOLES oo oo a's 2 sale Sine 'eie es we TBS Sy TKO Te} hi SKE into aciec ein ond ola 169 
EU OMIMAMNGIUS Sek eeje see ies cieeleen et A SGw EMO CTCL fae hands cin oie eye 'ay slaieiets evade carats 170 
TARO OC rer icle whaiavotye's veins Seise ae es DSi TMU TVD ahs cose Sicieisyalss aed Sees ee eis eeeatale 171 
AANA OC Rattan abe isisie ss sical s aikielslase ae STs (UVa tscoa tine 4 ors = wee lal sclera ou eps 171 
15 (SH eet HDI Yee: nee ie 137 IBETIMU Gays Gelso ese ee 189 
RSS Pera hay si. <s\0'< cc ce cnc wie sic 137 DEStSOMSIOR ise loseasrissieos 181 
HesperoSsCOrdon. ....0.0..52...66. 45 IDIACKDOREY sass c= aap eon 251 
PHO MAOTORGIS: «<5: sisiaveielvaa Se cisle.ciete 0's 137 Ol nero cEntets UoommneaMonachooooLc 92 
MU PPEAS CEU... seeshere sce Uieneaets < 13 Chinese Sacred.............. 243 
propagation by offsets...... 15 CLM Ae slatarne eastern 130 
propagation by seed........ 14 CUltivatlON: -4.. sce ee sees 174 
ProMamad Bulbs. 22.06.55 .2c eee ce es 138 NAVs ae seayecntine ee See ae 25 
ELOMMUGTT AY see isles siege cre cele eile s 138 foreing for winter flowers.. 187 
VOM Vi GawliG x... i\ec oi ciewisctels ne e's 244 for the garden......... atti, a 229 
PEER M GUM T Nea oe ete cists win sl eros violas ele 5 a 138 Golden eRayeGdins csc ceke 195 
blooming in glasses......... 149 OW? TOMpPLAMbie cee ace nee esl 183 
AMIE OP DTA sides vate see dees 45 VAGCODESAD 6.7 vi'rae cc’ deus tamer 29 


310 


Daly, Mariposa. : . 225-.4 fa 49 | 
IMGAdOW 2325.5 vosce~ cee eomoes 201 
Mount Bina. 3.2 2. eae 22 
mOt Hardy. ...j.csescieee ee 174 
of the Nile....... wicca eee 267 
Ob Tne Vay 2. eee oe 61 
Panthers cooec cose execs 218 
Scarborough...............-. 23 
species and yarieties.. == 195 
SWAMP cece = ene coc eee 226 
WIS CF ooo ao aoe oe oes 227 
Tig ger, Double Flowering.. - 228 
wet soil injurious to........ 179 
when to plant. ..-.--..-...-- 184 

PogniCra..o- 0 o-. eta ea 230 

Diy COLES SS ee co eee eee 230 

Mariposa Lily. -..:........-..--. 49 

IMEASS Oris see ee os toe ree 230 

Meadow Saffron ...............- 231 

Mexicanv Bulbs. ---.2c- ase a 231, 275 
1 ill \ pes Se eee oene cece sacs Hae 18 

Merendera.: 2228) sees somes ae 23) 

MN ay es ecto mwicccocw ce sanyeees 231 

Missouri Hyacinth. ............. 52 

MOREDTECIR . oo: <oc oe.ace sete sae 233 

Mount Eina Lily ....-.-...-....... 22 

a. P01 7 oo) ee ee eee 235 

Moutan or Tree Peony.......... 255 

MUuUSCATS 25 52sec eee c oc oe me eee 235 

IN@FCISSUS | oeses~ core eens eesti 236 
Butter and Eggs............. 238 
Chinese Sacred =o 240, 243 
derivation of name......... 244 
GISCASES oe eee eee 302-305 
FORCING 22) oe coop emcee 240 
iNPraerant.- cose ences. 248 
Hoop Petticoat... s0 2555. -- 242 
(triandrus) juncifolius...... 242 
PApCE  WaHthe. ch -cemme aoe 239, 244 
POCIS”: ) 22 cote estepceecess 238 
Oly cats eee cate oes eee 238 
RuSH-leAVed « .2 2. bese) ose 242 
WAZEDGA och 2 chosen wees asees 239 

IN&@SLUTEIOM «2.25 ss 2 eee ee 280 

Nectaroscordium..------ -. 222-5 244 

NGFING 5. 5. te aos ne eee ee eee 21, 244 

ONION 3225 east ee eae ee 9 
1 Pi a eee ee Schecencc cose ce 245 

Oporanthus:67s.oesk sae ee ee 244 

Qroihos alum. 2s--oe- =) esse 244 
hone-tanled ss. 22. - 2 teenie 245 

OV GIB ie os cao Sa eae Se ees 169 

Os alis ce 2c 2G. sacutaaee Sees 246 

PRONTR «: 6.29 ae oe ee eee eee 253 

Pancratign 22.205. -20225.. sae 250 

Pentlandsa.:.S2s.c. hens eee 298 

POD Y) 254. 223s. bares eee see eee 253 
Fine Beaved.-: 2265-05 cteces 256 
Shrapby. Or Pree. :24..- cer. 253 
varieties of herbaceous..... 255 

Peruvian Dattodil. -\... 0.222. 157 

Peyrousiae -onaose 5 onto eee 169 

PHeGTAVASS SA: soe 72- - site eee 257 

PHAN OCAMIS -a6- - scsi eee eee 76 

Phycellaissorccs caceee ees acces 257 

PIA eaten econo tere seer 137 

Plenrisy-1O08 oc soe. esyee cree sess 33 


BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


Polianthes tuberosa, Tuberose. 258 
Poppy Anemone........-.----.-. 28 
Potassium sulphide solution... 307 


Pusch kimia <=. a see eee 262 
Pyrolirion.. . 2.22 inessss eee 262 
Quamash: 2. .65s26.c5. cee 52 
Queen bily 5222352504 seo eee 257 
Ranun CulS.2.2 02 esses eee 263 
Richardia (Calla).........-....2: 267 
Rigidella..<... oss) see see 271 
Roman Hyacmth.-—.-2-2--see- 153 
Squill .3:;¢::) 2a 271 
Romuels :.o2s222c0see esa eee 278 
RusSts... 622235204 301-307 
St. Agnes Flower...-.-.......--- ea AOD 
Saneminaria ...--..-2s.-ceneee eee 271 
Scarborough Lily ............... 23 
Senlsa. s.2. 22s sc ee ck See ee ee Din 
diS@ASEG. . She eecn eee 305 
FYasSeriz: 2. 25 cheater 52 
Sea Dafitodit.... <>. .2seee eee 250 
SMM 6S 2. wc0 se Seca eee ee ee eee 302 
SNOWGLODP: ..22/6 s-- sess cee eee 95 
Snowilake «2a. ccscsces = eee eee 169 
Sow DEGAG..... 652. <2 See eee eee 72 
SPAEAIS.. 26.1. ce cede oe eee 274 
Spraying mixtures...........306-307 
Sprekelia.~ .. 202. > . veneer ee 22 
Spring Snowflake............... 169 
Squill 2... .k. 20s, 6¢- cee eee 272 
Chinese. .s.0. Se. ee eee 
ROMA: ...< os eee 36 
SyPlan72 sos ssn sces eee 271 
Star Grass. ..:s.ces sae 158 
of Bethlehem:..2-..-¢-ceeeee 246 
StenomeSson |. 32 «ssh cower eeee 274 
Stern bereia...-29-6- sec eeee eee 22 
Sirumaria.< =. eee 275 
Summer Snowflake............. 170 
Wigvidia.. 2222.3 See 275 
Tiser Canna. 2-5 --2ceee eee 57 
WIOWGE 32. -.o5ene ee eee 275 
LEIS oe. cece ee ee 275 
Tile Root:.: .-2245 oe eee 98 
TrichoneMa |. =: 222 eseee ene ene 278 
Trillium - .!.2<322s¢25 20 278 
Triteleia . o. 2-2 5- e eeeeee 278 
TritOnia. 2 so. 22 ese eee eee 279 
Tropzcolum!:-. 33 -<ceee eee 280 
Tuberose@.... Lge. aceo eee 258 
eulture of. » ielgsi telat ee 260 
Pearl .. 0... 3 eee 260 
Pearl, in greenhouse........ 261 
Tulip (Tulipa) ) Se oe eee 281 
cultivation:-Of.. 24.2. 26-22 eee 294 
diseases’... | Suse pee sere 302, 306 
Duc van BhOl ~. <eseee cone 291 
Barly doublex.-.-----2-----= 292 
Garden or SHOW. .....------- 283 
Horned. ....2as2senoe eee eee 293 
Lady. .:;-\s<.eeee a ee 293 
Parrot. 2 .2ccsseuess eee 291 
Single: earky. .::<<------s=nese 288 
SOil FOF. .5.8cnoeeee ee 295 
varieties for the garden.... 290 
Tulips from Seed....2....2...... 296 
Double forcing... ...-.+<. se. 297 


a =<) 


INDEX. oat 


Tulips for cut flowers........... ZOEY VCE CVMIS 65 cc ad cx ecseaece. ows 299 
IT TOTS Oa eier Boece QGP WICUSSCUEK Idea a's oe o's - aecsaoes saa 239 
Sele LOPES... ve cece ss ZOE ACH CU GOEN Gos ccnicse cease eles 299 

0 DS2 See See eee PP WiikeeRODE 272 oc te cs cones soos 278 

RRCCOMIM Bes. oo 2. oes aces ede esc 298 | Watsonia............. See CHEE 299 

“TDD 3? ee eer cue NIE ERY AGTODNY oe ae concn ance oe 273 

WIS DES Ae ae SOL | AWENLEE A CONTGEs. «sce cececie n> =~ - 86 

ES 2 ee ZOHO COR BALY 2.55. oc edce care =ononcee 278 

Vallota ...... SCE oe COCOCOUCOEET ae 2d |) ASU A ES ce Cae nce cosinor 25 


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raising Rabbits for pleasure as well as for profit. The book is abun 
dantly illustrated with all the various Courts, Warrens, Hutches, 
Fencing, etc., and also with excellent portraits of the most important 
species of rabbits throughout the world. 12mo--.----------..--- 1.50 


Quinby’s New Bee-Keeping. 
The Mysteries of Bee-keeping Explained. Combining the results of 
Fifty Years’ Experience, with the latest discoveries and inventions, 
and presenting the most approved methods, forming a complete work. 
Cloth, 12mo 22220 22226222 a eee 1.50 


Profits in Poultry. 
Useful and Ornamental Breeds and their Profitable Management. This 
excellent work contains the combined experience of a number of prac- 
tical men in all departments of poultry raising. It is profusely illus- 
trated and forms an unique and important addition to our poultry lit- 
erature. Cloth, d2m0:- 93. - 22-22 = 22-2 oe ee eats OD 


Barn Plans and Outbuildings. 
Two Hundred and Fifty-seven Illustrations. A most Valuable Work, 
full of Ideas, Hints, Suggestions, Plans, etc., for the Construction of 
Barns and Outbuildings, by Practical writers. Chapters are devoted, 
among other subjects, to the Economic Erection and Use of Barns. 
Grain Barns, House Barns, Cattie Barns, Sheep Barns, Corn Houses, 
Smoke Houses, Ice Houses, Pig Pens, Granaries, ete. There are like- 
wise chapters upon Bird Houses, Dog Houses, Tool Sheds, Ventila- 
tors, Roofs and Roofing, Doors and Fastenings, Work Shops, Ponltry 
Houses, Manure Sheds, Barn Yards, Root Pits, etc. Reoently pub- 
lished. © Cloth, 120 .-- 2020S sees ae nee enecums selene 1,50 


* 


7 


STANDARD BOOKS. 5 


Parsons on the Rose. : 
By Samuel B. Parsors. A treatise on the propagation, culture, and 
history of the rose. New and revised edition. In his work upon the 
rose, Mr. Parsons has gathered up the curious legends concerning 
the flower, and gives us an idea of the esteem in which it was heid in 
former times. A simple garden classification has been adopted, and 
the leading varieties under each class enumerated and _ briefly 
described. The chapters on multiplication, cultivation, and training 
are very full, and the work is altogether one of the most complete 
before the public. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo...._.__....___-___.- 1.00 


Heinrich’s Window Flower Garden. 
The author is a practical florist, and this enterprising volume em- 
bodies his personal experiences in Window Gardening during a long 
period. New and enlarged edition. By Julius J. Heinrich. Fully 
pane tO. 1 2MO. 8. nos 2- 2a ee eon ce eee ccs a7 (5 


Liautard’s Chart of the Age of the Domestic Animals. 
Adopted by the United States Army. Enables one to accurately de- 
termine the age of norses, cattle, sheep, dogs, and pigs......... = 00 


Pedder’s Land Measurer for Farmers. 
A conyenient Pocket Companion, showing at once the contents of 
any piece of land, when its length and width are known, up to 1,500 
feet either way, with various other useful farm tables. Cloth, 18mo; 


60 
How to Plant and What to Do with the Crops. 

. With other valuable hints for the Farm, Garden and Orchard. By 
Mark W. Johnson. Illustrated. CoNnTENTs : Times for Sowing Seeds. 
Covering Seeds; Field Crops; Garden or Vegetable Seeds, Sweet 
Herbs, etc.; Tree Seeds ; Flower Seeds ; Fruit Trees; Distances Apart 
for Fruit Trees and Shrubs ; Profitable Farming; Green or Manuring 
Crops ; Root Crops; Forage Plants ; What to do with the Crops ; The 
Rotation of Crops; Varieties ; Paper Covers, post-paid-.....-.. 0 


Your Plants. 
Plain and Practical Directions for the Treatment of Tender and Hardy 

_ Plants in the House and in the Garden. By James Sheehan. The 
above title well describes the character of the work—“‘ Plain and Prac- 
tical.’”? The author, acommercial florist and gardener, has endeavored, 
in this work, to answer the many questions asked by his customers, as 
to the proper treatment of plants. The book shows all through that 
its author is a practical man, and he writes as one with a large store 
of experience. The work better meets the wants of the amateur who 
grows a few plants in the window, or has a small flower Garden, than 
a larger treatise intended for those who cultivate plants upon a more 
extended-scale. Price, post-paid, paper covers---.-.----------- AC 


Husmann’s American Grape-Growing and Wine-Making. 
By George Husmann of Talcoa vineyards, Napa, California. New and 
enlarged edition. With contributions from well-known grape-growers, 
giving a wide range of experience. The author of this book is a 
recognized authority on the subject. Cloth, 12mo.......-...... 1.50 


The Scientific Angler. 
A general and instructive work on Artistic Angling, by the late David 
Foster. Complied by his Sons. With an Introductory Chapter and 
Copious Foot Notes, by William C. Harris, Editor of the ‘‘ American 
Perens CO lOphon iO) cls co- cedced spend beaded ueeca he OFS. 1,50 


= 


6 areas STANDARD BOOKS. 


Keeping One Cow. 
A collection of Prize Essays, and selectionsfrom a number of other 
Essays, with editorial notes, suggestions, etc. This book gives the 
latest information, and in a clear and condensed form, upon the man- 
agement of a single Milch Cow. Mlustrated with full-page engrav- 
ings of the most famous dairy cows. Recently published. Cloth, 
I2MG. oi 20255) alsck se shee cee eesceeet essen ee ee 1,00 


Law’s Veterinary Adviser 
A Guide to the Prevention and Treatment of Disease in Domestic 
Animals, This is one of the best works on this subject, and is especi- 
ally designed to supply the need of the busy American Farmer, who 
can rarely avail himself of the advice of a Scientific Veterinarian. It 
is brought up to date and treats of the Prevention of Disease, as well 
as of the Remedies. By Prof. Jas. Law. Cloth, Crown 8yo----- 3.00 


Guenon’s Treatise on Milch Cows. 
A Treatise on the Bovine Species in General. An entirely new trans- 
lation of the last edition of this popular and instructive bock. By 
Thos. J. Hand, Secretary of the American Jersey Cattle Club. With 
over 100 Illustrations, especially engraved forthis work. Cloth, 12mo. 


1.00 
The Cider Maker’s Handbook. 


A complete guide for making and keeping pure cider. By J. M. Trow- 
bridge. Fully Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo!2- 232-3522 2225 eee 1.00 


Long’s Ornamental Gardening for Americans, 
A treatise on Beautifying Homes, Rural Districts, and Cemeteries. A 
plain and practical work at a moderate price, with numerous illus- 
trations, and instructions so plain that they may be readily followed. 
By Elias A. Long. Landscape Architect. Illustrated. Cloth, ae 
.0 


The Dogs of Great Britain, America and Other Countries. 
New, enlarged and revised edition. Their breeding, training and 
management, in health and disease ; comprising all the essential parts 
of the two standard works on the dog, by ‘‘ Stonehenge,’’ thereby fur- 
nishing for $2 what once cost $11.25. Contains Lists of all Premiums 
given at the last Dog Shows. It Describes the Best Game and Hunt- 
ing Grounds in America. Contains over One Hundred Beautiful En- 
gravings, embracing most noted Dogs in both Continents, making to- 
gether, with Chapters by American Writers, the most Complete os 
Book ‘ever published... Cloth, 12mo. -- ==. <2 22 32326022 = =e 2. 


Stewart's Feeding Animals. 
By Elliot W. Stewart. A new and valuable practical work upon the 
laws of animal growth, specially applied to the rearing and feeding 
horses, cattle, diary cows, sheep and swine. Jllustrated. Cloth, rae 


How to Co-operate. | 

A Manual for Co-operators. By Herbert Myrick. This book describes 
the how rather than the wherefore of co-operation. In other words it 
tells how to manage a co-operative store, farm or factory, and co-op- 
erative dairying, banking and fire insurance, and co-operative farmers’ 
and women’s exchanges for both buying and selling. The directions 
given are based on the actual experience of successful co-operative en- 
terprises in all parts of the United States. The character and useful 
ness of the book commend it to the attention of all men and wom 


who desire to better their condition. 12mo. Cloth............. | L. 


STANDARD BOOKS. 7 


Batty’s Practical Taxidermy and Home Decoration. 
By Joseph H. Batty, taxidermist for the government surveys and 
many colleges and museums in the United States. An entirely new 
and complete as well as authentic work on taxidermy—giving in 
detail full directions for collecting and mounting animals, birds, rep- 
tiles, fish, insects, and general objects of natural history. 125 illus- 
Dam MIMEM ESTN Oso oe a oo oe ea 2 == 1.50 


Stewart's Irrigation for the Farm, Garden, and Orchard. 
New and Enlarged Edition. This work is offered to those American 
Farmers, aud other cultivators of the soil, who from painful expe- 
rience can readily appreciate the losses which result from the scarcity 
of water at critical periods. By Henry Stewart. Fully illustrated. 
Lif, LET 2 eee ee ee ae ee ee ee eee Bee: Ase 


Johnson's How Crops Grow. 
New Edition, entirely rewritten. A Treatise on the Chemical Compo- 
sition, Structure, and Life of the Plant. Revised Edition. This book 
is a guide to the knowledge of agricultural plants, their composition, 
their structure, and modes of development and growth ; of the com- 
plex organization of plants, and the use of the paris; the germination 
of seeds, and the food of plants obtained both from the air and the 
soil. The book is an invaluable one to all real students of agricul- 
ture. With numerous illustrations and tables of analysis. By Prof. 
Samuel W. Johnson, of Yale College. Cloth, 12mo---.......... 2.00 


Johnson’s How Crops Feed. 
A treatise on the Atmosnvhere and the Soil, as related in the Nutrition 
of Agricultural Plants. The volume—the companion and complement 
to ‘‘ How Crops Grow,’’—has been welcomed by those who appreciate 
scientific aspects of agriculture. Illustrated. By Prof. Samuel W. 
LTE. ER eT ee eo . 2.00 


Warington’s Chemistry of the Farm. 
Treating with the utmost clearness and conciseness, and in the most 
popular manner possible, of the relations of Chemistry to Agriculture, 
and providing a welcome manual for those, who, while not having 
time to systematically study Chemistry, will gladly have such an idea 
as this gives them of its relation to operations on the farm. By R. 
msn C3. Cloth, Imo. -___..----2--5-=-.=+----<---s 1.00 


French’s Farm Drainage. 
The Principles, Process, and Effects of Draining Land, with Stones, 
Wood, Ditch-plows, Open Ditches, and especially with Ties; includ- 
ing Tables of Rainfall, Evaporation, Filteration, Excavation, Capacity 
of Pipes, cost and number to the acre. By Judge French, of New 
Peper mee lone MWh Pa 28h on ence eee 1.50 


Hunter and Trapper. 
The best modes of Hunting and Trapping are fully explained, and 
Foxes, Deer, Bears, etc., fall into his traps readily by following his 
directions. By Halsey Thrasher, an old and experienced sportsman. 
OL, eS es a ea a es ee OR 75 


The American Merino. For Wool or for Mutton. 
A practical and most valuable work on the selection, care, breeding 
and diseases of the Merino sheep, in all sections of the the United 
States. Itis a full and exhaustive treatise upon this one breed of 
sheep. By Stephen Powers. Cloth, 12mo-...-..----------. byae ts =? 


8 STANDARD BOOKS. 


Armatage’s Every Man His Gwn Horse Doctor. 
By Prof. George Armatage, M. R.C. V.8. A valuable and compre- 
hensive guide for both the professional and general reader with the 
fullest and latest informatior regarding all diseases, local injuries, 
lameness, operations, poisons, the dispensatory, ete , etc., with practi 
cal anatomical and surgical IJustrations. New Edition. Toyether 
with Blaine’s ‘‘ Veterinary Art,’? and numerous recipes. One large 
Svo. volume, 830 pages, half moroceo_2_.2_ =. ee 7.00 


Dadd’s Modern Horse Doctor. 


Containing Practical Observations on the Causes, Nature, and Treat- 
ment of Diseases and Lameness of Horses—embracing recent and im- 
proved Methods, according to an enlightened system of Veterinary 
Practice, for Preservation and Restoration of Health. Mlustrated. 
By Geo. H. Dadd, M. D. V..8.; Cloth, 12mo= 222 1.50 


The Family Horse. 
Its Stabling, Care, and Feeding. By Geo. A. Martin. A Practical 
Manual, full of the most useful information. Illustrated. Cloth, 
12mo0 2. 1 ene eile eee 1.00 


Sander’s Horse Breeding. 
Being the general principles of Heredity applied to the Business of 
Breeding Horses and the Management of Stallions, Brood Mares and 
Foals. The book embraces all that the breeder should know in regard 
to the selection of stock, management of the stallion, brood mare, and 
foal, and treatment of diseases peculiar to breeding animals. By J. 
H. Sanders. -.12mo, cloth. -_...:.4......2 eS eee 2.00 


Coburn’s Swine Husbandry. 
New, revised and enlarged edition. The Breeding, Rearing and 
Management of Swine, and the Prevention and Treatment of their 
Diseases. It is the fullestand freshest compendium relating to Swine 
Breeding yet offered. By F. D. Coburn. Cloth, 12mo-------- 1.75 


Dadd’s American Cattle Doctor. 


By George H. Dadd, M. D., Veterinary Practitioner. To help every 
man to be his own cattle-doctor; giving the necessary information 
for preserving the health and curing the diseases of oxen, cows, sheep, 
and swine, with a great variety of original recipes, and valuable infor- 
mation on farm and dairy management, Cloth, l2mo-.-.--------- 1.50 


Silos, Ensilage, and Silage. 
A practical treatise on the Ensilage of Fodder Corn. Containing the 
most recent and authentic information c™ this important subject, by 
Manly Miles, M.D., F.R.M.8. Illustrated. Cloth 12mo------.. 00 


Broom Corn and Brooms. 
A Treatise on Raising Broom-Corn and Making Brooms on a small or 
Large Scale. ITlustrated. 12mo. Cloth cover--.-.--------.... 50 


American Bird Fancier. 
Or how to breed, rear, and care for Song and Domestic Birds. This 
valuable and important little work for all who are interested in the 
keeping of Song Birds, has been revised and enlarged, and is now a 
complete manual upon the subject. All who own yaluable birds, or 
wish to do so, will find the new Fancier indispensable. New, revised 
and enlarged edition. By D. J. Browne, and Dr. Fuller Walker. Illus- 
trated, paper cOver..-.--.---=-2-<=--- -=--<-<2--5- eee 8 


STANDARD BOOKS, 9 


Armatage’s Every Man His Own Cattle Doctor. 
The Veterinary Cyclopedia—Embracing all the practical information 
of value heretofore published on the Diseases of Cattle, Sheep, ana 
Swine, together with the latest and best information regarding all 
known diseases up to the present time. Compiled and edited by that 
eminent authority, Prof. George Armatage, M. R. C. V. 8. One 
large octavo volume, 894 pages, with upwards of 350 practical illus- 
trations, showing forms of disease and treatment. Half morocco. 7.50 


Gnions—How to Raise them Profitanly. 
Being the Practical Details, from Selection of Seed and Preparation 
of Ground to Harvesting and Marketing the Crop, given very plainly 
by Seventeen Practical Onion Growers of long experience residing in 
different parts of the country. No more valuable work of its size 
weasevericsued. Paper, cover, 8v0-_.----.-----..---------0--.-- 20 


Tobacco Culture—Full Practical Details. 


This useful and valuable work contains full details of every process 
from the Selectiou and Preparation of the Seed and Soil to the Harvest- 
ing, Curing and Marketing the Crop, with illustrative engravings of 
the operations. The work was prepared by Fourteen Experienced 
Tobacco Growers, residing in different parts of the country. It also 
contains notes on the Tobacco Worm, with illustrations, 8yo,.. ,25 


Hop Culture. 
Plain directions given by ten experienced cultivators. Revised, en- 
larged and edited by A. 8. Fuller. Forty engravings.....------ .30 


Flax Culture. 

_ Avery valuable work, containing full directions, from selection of 
ground and seed to preparation and marketing of crop, as given by 
aqmmber Of experienced growers, SVO.--=.-..-------------=---. .30 


Potato Pests. 


No Farmer can afford to be without this little book. It gives the 
most complete account of the Colorado Beetle anywhere to be found, 
and includes all the latest discoveries as to the habits of the insect 
and the various means for its destruction. It is well illustrated, and 
exhibits in a map the spread of the insect since it left its native home. 
Pyutorses Vieviley.. Paper COVver:- 2. 22d... .s---eeeencs5-<c-- 50 


Home Fishing and Home Waters. 
By Seth Green. The Utilization of Farm Streams; Management of 
Fish in the Artificial Pond; Transportation of Eggs and Fry, etc. 
dy, WSC 2 Sie INO I eee nes an en .50 


Reed's House Plans for Everybody. 
By 8. B. Reed. This useful volume meets the wants of persons of 
moderate means, and gives a wide range of design, from a dwelling 
costing $250 up to $8,000, and adapted to farm, village and town resi- 
dences. Nearly all of these plans have been tested by practical work- 
ings. One feature of the work imparts a value over any similar pub- 
lication of the kind that we have seen. It gives an estimate of the 
quantity of every article used in the construction, and the cost of each 
article at the time the building was erected or the design made. Even 
if prices vary from time to time, one can, from these data, ascertain 
within a few dollars the probabie cost of constructing any one of the 
buildings here presented. Profusely illustrated. Cloth, black and 
POL MAM Ose eon kina eo we Bale mite wie Serr eal wb Gs len ex Bu gla 1.50 


A Valuable Periodical for everybody in City, Village, and Comiry. 


EI E/EIEI EES EI EES EIE SIE eee 


fh ri iculturist. 
i) he American fA griculturist 


(ESTABLISHED 1842.) 


THE LEADING INTERNATIONAL PUBLICATION 


FOR THE 


FARM, GARDEN, AND HOUSEHOLD. 


VATA 
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A MONTHLY MAGAZINE of from 48 to 64 pages in each number, 
containing in each volume upward of 7oo pages and over 1000 original engravings 
of typical and prize-winning Horses, Cattle, Sheep, Swine, and Fowls; New 
Fruits, Vegetables, and Flowers; House and Barn Plans; New Implements and 
ee Contrivances ; and many pleasing and instructive pictures for young 
and old. 


THE STANDARD AUTHORITY in all matters pertaining to 
Asriculture, Horticulture, and Rural Arts, and the oldest and most ably edited 
periodical of its class in the world. 


BEST RURAL PERIODICAL IN THE WORLD. 


The thousands of hints and suggestions given in every volume are prepared by 
practical, intelligent farmers. whe know what they write about. 


The Household Department is valuable to every housekeeper, afford- 
ing very many useful hints and directions calculated to lighten and facilitate 


indoor work. 


The Department for Children and Youth is prepared with 
special care, to furnish not only amusement, but also to inculcate knowledge 
and sound moral principles. 


Subscription Terms : $1.50 a year, postage included ; sample copies, 15c, each. 
TRyi mrmrTrA YEAR: 


ddress, a 
ne. AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST, 


52 & 54 Lafayette Place, New York. 


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