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SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION 
BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY 
BULLETIN 147 


Journal of an Expedition to the 
Mauvaises Terres and the 


Upper Missouri in 1850 


By THADDEUS A. CULBERTSON 
Edited by 
JOHN FRANCIS McDERMOTT 


UNITED STATES 
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 
WASHINGTON : 1952 


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LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL 


SMITHSONIAN INsTITUTION, 
Bureau or AMERICAN ErHNo.oey, 
Washington, D. C., May 1, 1950. 
Sir: I have the honor to transmit herewith a manuscript entitled 
“Journal of an Expedition to the Mauvaises Terres and the Upper 
Missouri in 1850,” by Thaddeus A. Culbertson, edited by John Francis 
McDermott, and to recommend that it be published as a bulletin of the 
Bureau of American Ethnology. 
Very respectfully yours, 
M. W. Stirurne, Director. 
Dr. ALEXANDER WETMORE, 
Secretary, Smithsonian Institution. 


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CONTENTS 


PAGE 
IPTeraCelase eas a = eas eee nek le be eRe eh SO ee NE. VII 
TG rOd Wetio a re = ate ee ear Rane A OEY EES 2 LE Fo Te eS il 
Journal of an Expedition to the Mauvaises Terres and the Upper Missouri 
in tS50. by Lhaddeus" AY Culbertsom 225s aie & aiiy hy seen het Es 15 
Departure from St. Louis, Steamer, Mary Blane, Missouri River- --- 15 
Lexington—Liberty—Independence-=2- 220/252 - JLT A ee 19 
Kansas——Wansas (iverlena: 222-542 en MUA Aas See 20 
WIEST One ee wee LS aire era in om BS RL Sor ARR NE CS ee 20 
Si tOSeD nea eel Oe ete Hee ee CON Oa eee 21 
Neodaway- River—Prairie sa. = ss 4s => ES Co NE eS 24 
NishnabotanavRiverac< <+s-4 stte+ 4 se feane MOE. WOR Me 22s 25 
aware awe ais mes en oe x x sd oe CAT Me BIR ARRRMEISL ORES, 2S 26 
Wanesivill@ees ace ees = Ses tn Fos cn ils ke ee ee apr em i a 29 
IB OVER ECIVEL SS Sa 0k © a= =e oo 5 ae OT re ie OOO eee 30 
MeittleySiouxeivierses ss be ee ees cae Bes ee Uae Ae eee 30 
HEEL yh Sis Gk Vie ee Er ah te ren Bn be ERNE OU, SG | hs SEE 32 
Crossingéoiy Willow. Fuiver i. ee SA iad SID A. BEE Bike ae 33 
ERO PMVICE Or ORCC Ke tex ae ete mee ee ar et ne tah EAD oR SRY 33 
Big Sioux hiver—bruylere 82 =-- eu Sete oe soe ee eee 34 
Crossingebigs SiOUxK= es weer eee le Ce ao Ene ny BE Re eee 35 
Mermilioneoster se sa uly’ Em seuulbet ie oe eee baht ELE Se eee ee 36 
ag Hew Aterses ope ser see esl ae ol Se, SU ee oh ear. 40 
Eainiouiine sweeties 2 ae SARA De WE. RRR Eh ge SP Sk 2 ee 41 
Wihitem bianchi one. S282 2) 2 sey gettae 5 Saat er eae Se eee 42 
LRN: EET | ea Se Nn et A ay as ee ahs Be 44 
OH Otibes te Cree lca ei vite, Sy Ne ee re oes NOE le ee ae 49 
Andys ihake——Prairie-dogs: <2 9/5232 52 Lee a Se ae 49 
PANTING Ts CEL TNRE OT Reese sy pl Vy Re a eee yeas Au ee pe EN esa 50 
Ba Ge wis iO oe ee ee mE ae Sag ie Ds Eee og ig a ae 50 
Varictonel ra ding WO usei 5 a2 2 oe ee 8 oa ea oe 51 
VOSS G DE GEG a Si as a8 ar a A Mie Le) NOLIN RE 52 
TOLD id BD USP Shs Ee ALS NER NO Ug a a a ee 55 
Srancicon hep baGaanaee cnet st eee ee} ey ee ree eS 55 
Wihitentiveristanbandsan 2. we.t sea. 2h) Lee me ie oe ee ae 59 
Fort Pierre—Indian customs—Sioux—Hunting-_------------------ 67 
The El Paso—Journey up the Missouri--------..---------------- 85 
Bonin Ark LeGse ae ne etre Cape ee es BO ee ee ee ee 95 
Borusocethold—Gros Ventres-2.22 = 2 an ec es eee 99 
Hort wuinion=—ASsinibOlnes: ot 8h 8k b8 sala ee Ss Se ee se 105 
DELS 1S iors | ie yb ts ote d= Pee ee OY ey pee Res ae, Oy ee Cerone Ue 109 
Milkoiiver— Return. toot. UOUis.. 5-5-6252 8 ee eee ee 114 


VI BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY 
PAGE 
PUP PCNGIX hes eee 2 ae oe, ee SN Sa ee 123 
List of plants collected by Mr. Culbertson. By Professor Thomas C. 
orton: ose 5 es et ne 124 


List of Birds and Mammalia found on the Missouri River from Fort 
Leavenworth to Fort Union, at the mouth of the Yellowstone River. 


By idward, Harris Sisqss 202 22). sn oe 128 
An explanation of the Tabular view of the Indian Tribes of the Upper 
Missouri. By Thaddeus A. Culbertson, July 1850_______________ 132 
Explanation of the Tabular view of the Sioux Nation of the U[pper] 
IMIsSOUMIAt' 3 457 25 ony Sit ket aren ee ee a 132 
Explanation of the Tabular view of several Indian Nations of the 
Upper Missouri ek) cnet Soo es Se a ee 133 
The Cheyenne Nation... 22.2)... 2 e Sone 133 
ihe Ariccarce: Nation. ....2... >... ste ee ee ee 133 
The ;Mandani Nation. 522.0 225255. 22 | 22 133 
The Gros Ventre Nation... 22.22 2 2b ee 134 
The: Assiniboine Nation. .2..-.-.- 422292 eee 134 
The Crow. Nation: 2. 22 = 3. ea ae eee 134 
‘The Blackfoot Nation. 22.2224 134 
SuUMMarY Llc So ee on ee 137 
Appendix 2. “Culbertson’s Report to Baird_.......--2..___ 2... se eee 139 
Appendix 3. Alexander Harvey and the ‘‘Opposition’? Company___-_-__-__- 147 
Fromythe: Upper Missouri: 2222 os5222552 jo. 8 ce 147 
From the Plains: Three thousand miles up the Missouri River _-__-__ 148 
Late irom Couneil Bluffs. 2.22222. 203. 2 a ae 150 
mppendixi4- The St, Ange. =. 2.222.220 022... s = 151 
BIDNOPTADD Yaw e ooo tn 4 a Se 153 
nlx Soa 2 = Fe AR be ts oe ee LR ea Be eS 159 
ILLUSTRATIONS 
MAPS 


1. Section of map compiled in Pacific Railroad Office with additions de- 
signed to illustrate Lt. Warren’s Report of Military Reconnaissances 
in‘the Dacota Country, 1855" 22222 2+ 2 32 ot eee 15 
2. Map showing the position of the Bad Lands or Mauvaises Terres of 
Nebraska, from a draft by John Evans of the United States Geo- 
logical Corps .2.2 22% S262 2. 8 tae ee oe eee 60 


ee ee 


———— 


PREFACE 


The present edition of Thaddeus A. Culbertson’s Journal of an 
Expedition to the Mauvaises Terres and the Upper Missouri in 1850 
is based on four sources. First, a portion of the original journal 
bought from a descendant of Alexander Culbertson by the Missouri 
Historical Society ; this section runs from March 21 through May 27. 
Second, a portion of the original journal, also in Culbertson’s hand- 
writing, now owned by the Historical Society of Montana ; this section, 
paged 260-307, contains the entries for June 13-18. Third, part of 
a copy presumably made by Culbertson for the use of Spencer F. 
Baird (it is very likely that the original notebooks did not at any 
time leave the possession of the Culbertson family). This manu- 
script, in possession of the Bureau of American Ethnology, runs from 
March 21 to about halfway through the entry for April 25. Written 
in ink on 48 sheets of blue foolscap, in the same hand and using the 
same ink and paper as the letter-report written to Baird from Fort 
Pierre on May 380, 1850, it is in all probability a revised draft which 
Culbertson made from his notebooks during the leisure of his stay 
at Fort Pierre from May 18 to June 5. It is essentially the same as 
the original notebook but contains some variations and changes written 
into the copy. Baird or some other person crossed out numerous pas- 
sages which Culbertson would hardly have removed from his journal ; 
furthermore, they are crossed out in a different ink. Some corrections 
of style also were made in this second ink. If we ignore these cor- 
rections and excisions, we may reasonably assume that this manuscript 
represents Culbertson’s own revised and preferred copy. Fourth, the 
portion of the Journal printed as Appendix IV to the Fifth Annual 
Report of the Smithsonian Institution for 1850, pages 84-132. It 
appears that Baird, for editorial reasons satisfactory to himself, began 
his selection with the entry for April 27. Working with the entire 
copy before him, he cut and corrected and revised as he thought fit. 
For the portion published, the working copy was destroyed; the Bu- 
reau of American Ethnology manuscript represents the portion not 
used. 

To make the present version of Culbertson’s work as complete as 
possible, I have used for the first section (pp. 15-49) the Bureau of 
American Ethnology manuscript, for I regard this as the author’s re- 
vised copy. I have retained all those passages which Baird struck out 
and have rejected all the editorial changes in diction and sentence 


VII 


VIII BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BULL. 147 


structure. For the middle portion of the book (pp. 48-77) I have used 
the original notebook of the Missouri Historical Society, since it is 
a good deal fuller than the corresponding portion of the printed jour- 
nal. For the last part (pp. 77-121) I have had to use Baird’s revision 
as printed in the Smithsonian Report for 1850, except for the June 
13-18 entries, which are reproduced from the Montana Historical 
Society manuscript. In a few places in the first and second sections, 
as well as in the “Montana” section, I have added a syllable or a word 
to make the context clear; otherwise all bracketed words or phrases 
are Culbertson’s own variants. Spelling and punctuation, of course, 
are as faithful a rendering of the author’s as possible. 

The material of Appendix 1 in this edition is from the Smithsonian 
Report for 1850, pages 133-145. Appendix 2 is a 12-page letter, 
hitherto unpublished, from Culbertson to Baird, Fort Pierre, May 30, 
1850, which forms part of the Culbertson manuscripts of the Bureau 
of American Ethnology. Although Baird’s name does not appear 
on the letter, it is clearly a report to him; it is signed by Culbertson. 
Appendixes 3 and 4 present related material extracted from St. 
Louis newspapers. 

For permission to publish the Bureau of American Ethnology 
manuscript and for other assistance I am indebted to Dr. M. W. Stir- 
ling, Director of the Bureau. The Missouri Historical Society of 
St. Louis has generously allowed me to use its original notebook as 
copy for part of this edition, and Miss Stella M. Drumm (now Mrs. 
Chilton Atkinson, but librarian of the Society at the time this edition 
was being prepared) was particularly considerate and helpful. The 
Historical Society of Montana has kindly permitted me to use its 
portion of the Culbertson journal, and Mrs. Anne McDonnell has made 
useful suggestions to me. For biographical information about 
Thaddeus Culbertson, I am indebted to the office of the Secretary of 
Princeton University. To the libraries of Washington University 
and the Missouri Botanical Garden, and to the Mercantile Library of 
St. Louis, I am grateful for special courtesies. I wish to thank also 
Lawrence K. Fox, South Dakota historian, for his helpful interest in 
this book. Most thanks of all, as usual, I owe to my wife for great 
patience and forbearance in the preparation of the manuscript and of 
the index. 

Joun Francis McDermorr. 
Washington University, St. Louis, Mo., 
April 1, 1950. 


INTRODUCTION 


Thaddeus Culbertson was 10 years old when his brother Alexander 
traveled first up the Missouri River. There can be little doubt that 
the boy’s interest in the West was soon aroused by letters written 
home by the adventurous young man. The particular influence that 
led to Thaddeus’ own excursion, however, must have been a trip that 
Alexander made through the Bad Lands, probably in the fall of 1848, 
when he went on business from Fort Pierre to Fort Laramie, for 
either at this time or in the next year or two Alexander made a col- 
lection of bones and fossils, which is the beginning of scientific in- 
terest in that particular region. 

The first news of record is to be found in a letter by Dr. Hiram A. 
Prout, dated at St. Louis, December 10, 1846: 


The Palsotherial bone here described, was sent to me sometime ago by a 
friend residing at one of the trading posts of the St. Louis Fur Company on 
the Missouri River. From information since obtained from him, I have learned 
that it was discovered in the Mauvais Terre on the White River.’ 


In the summer of 1845 Alexander made a trip to New York and 
must have visited his family in Pennsylvania. Certainly about this 
time he gave his father, Joseph Culbertson of Chambersburg, some 
“fossil bones of a new genus of extinct Ruminants, consisting of the 
cranium and parts of a humerus, ulna, and radius,” as they were 
described when they were placed on deposit at the Academy of Natural 
Sciences of Philadelphia in the fall of 1847.2, Another deposit was 
made by Joseph Culbertson a few months later; it consisted of “two 
fragments of a jaw of a new fossil genus of Mammalia (Merycoidodon 
Culbertsonii, Leidy) found near the ‘Black Hills,’ Western Missouri.” 3 
Eventually these and other bones were given to the Museum of the 


1 Prout credited this bone to the “St. Louis Fur Company,” but he could hardly have 
meant Harvey, Primeau, and Co., for that firm was just organized. 

2? Entered on November 23, 1847. Acad. Nat. Sci. Phila., Proc., vol. 8, p. 815. 1846-47. 

3 Entered on April 4, 1848. Acad. Nat. Sci. Phila., Proc., vol. 4, p. 52. 1848. These 
bones were discussed by Joseph Leidy in a paper entitled “On a New Fossil and Species of 
Ruminantoid Pachydermata: Merycoidodon Culbertsonii.” Ibid., vol. 4, pp. 47-50. 
Elsewhere Leidy wrote: ‘Mr. J. S. Phillips, when on a visit to Chambersburg, Pennsyl- 
vania, observed in the possession of Dr. S. D. Culbertson, several remarkable mammalian 
fossils, which had been sent as curiosities from the Bad Lands by his nephew, Mr. 
Alexander Culbertson, of the American Fur Company. These specimens, at the suggestion 
of the late distinguished Dr. S. G. Morton, were obtained through Dr. John H. B. McClellan, 
a friend of Dr. Culbertson, and were obligingly placed in my hands for examination ... 
they were afterwards presented by Alexander Culbertson to the Academy” (Leidy, 1854, 
Dts). 


1 


2 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BuLL. 147 


Academy. The Prout letter and the deposit of the bones in posses- 
sion of Joseph Culbertson aroused so much interest that David Dale 
Owen sent John Evans into the Bad Lands in 1849, and Spencer F. 
Baird in the following year arranged for young Thaddeus Culbertson 
to visit that region under the auspices of the Smithsonian Institution. 

Thaddeus Ainsworth Culbertson was born in Chambersburg, Pa., 
on February 18, 1823. His father, Joseph Culbertson, was the son of 
Colonel Robert Culbertson and Annie Duncan, and the grandson of 
Joseph Culbertson, who had come to Pennsylvania from the North of 
Treland in the middle of the eighteenth century. The younger 
Joseph married first Mary Finley, the daughter of Captain James 
Finley of Chambersburg; one of their six children was Alexander. 
The second wife, Frances Stuart, who came from the neighborhood 
of Harrisburg, was the mother of Michael Simpson—to whom Thad- 
deus refers in his Journal—and Thaddeus. Thaddeus attended 
Chambersburg Academy and in 1844 entered the College of New 
Jersey (Princeton University) as a sophomore. He received the 
Bachelor of Arts degree in 1847 and for a time taught school in 
Virginia. On several occasions in his Journal he referred to his 
life there—apparently he was in Clifton, now West Virginia, and 
made a botanizing tour at least as far south as the James River. In 
1849-50 he studied at the Princeton Theological Seminary. He left 
Chambersburg in February 1850, to make the trip up the Missouri 
River and returned to his home town in August, to die on the 28th 
of that month.’ 

Thaddeus Culbertson was not an unreasonable choice for the expe- 
dition to the Bad Lands. He and his family were interested in the 


“Mr. Joseph Culbertson, of Carlisle, Pennsylvania, presented the specimens of Meri- 
coidodon and Poébrotherium and also other (undetermined) mammalian fragments, for- 
merly deposited by him in the Academy” (Acad. Nat. Sci. Phila., Proc., vol. 5, p. 37, 
1850-51). Some credit for this gift was claimed by Spencer F. Baird, who, writing to 
Joseph Leidy from Carlisle, Feb. 16, 1850, announced, “I have persuaded Dr. Joseph Cul- 
bertson of Chambersburg to present some of his Merycoidodon fossils to the Academy” 
(Dall, 1915, p. 207). 

5 For some account of this family consult Culbertson, (1893)—particularly pp. 163—165, 
168-170, 180-185. 

6 Alexander Culbertson (1809-78) was employed in the Upper Mississippi fur trade as 
early as 1830; in 1833 he joined the Upper Missouri Outfit and within half a dozen years 
sufficiently proved his worth to be granted a share in that business. On the retirement 
of Kenneth McKenzie in 1840, he succeeded to the command of Fort Union; in 1848 he 
became agent in charge of all the forts on the Upper Missouri and the Yellowstone and 
for at least 10 years he continued in that position. The best brief sketch of him and of 
his Indian family is that of Anne McDonnell (1940, pp. 240-246). ‘There is a wealth 
of material, for all the travelers to the Upper Missouri were acquainted with him: Maxi- 
Milian (1904-7), Abel (1932), Audubon and Coues (1897), T. A. Culbertson (Journal, 
this edition), Chittenden and Richardson (1905), Kurz (1937), McDonnell (1940), 
Bradley (1900), pp. 201-287, are principal sources to consult. 

7¥For biographical information concerning Thaddeus Culbertson, I am indebted to Mrs. 
Harry J. Wright, Jr., in the Office of the Secretary, Princeton University ; some of the 
statements in this paragraph are drawn from the Journal; that concerning his death is 
from the Annual Report of the Smithsonian Institution for 1850, p. 44. 


McDERMOTT] INTRODUCTION a 


fossil remains in that region; he was planning to make a long trip 
for his health; his brother Alexander could guarantee him the free- 
dom of the country, the aid of the most powerful business organization 
operating there, the assistance of adequate guides, and would pay the 
major part of the expense. The Smithsonian could acquire a valuable 
collection of material at little cost. 


For several years [Baird declared in his report] I have been receiving valuable 
specimens from different friends, in the Upper Missouri, whose other duties, 
however, prevented them from collecting as much as could be wished. Mr. 
Culbertson being about to visit this region for the benefit of his health, offered 
to make for the Smithsonian Institution such collections in Natural History, 
as might be indicated to him as desirable; I accordingly prepared a list of 
desired data, and among others, directed his attention to the eocene deposits 
of White River, known as the Mauvaises Terres or bad lands. [5th Ann. Rep. 
Smithsonian Inst. 1850, p. 438.] 


The Smithsonian made an appropriation of “about $200” to cover part 
of the expense Thaddeus might incur (ibid., p. 12), but Alexander 
Culbertson “bore the entire expense of the trip from Fort Pierre to the 
Mauvaises Terres, besides paying a considerable sum to hunters and 
others for many of the specimens sent” (ibid., p. 45). 

The Culbertsons left Chambersburg soon after the middle of Feb- 
ruary£ On the 19th of March, they started up river from Saint 
Louis in the steamboat Mary Blane, landed at Saint Joseph, Mo., on 
the 26th, and— 


proceeded ... thence by land, in a carriage to Fort Pierre. A day or two 
after arriving at this fort, Mr. Culbertson started out to the “Bad Lands” with 
a party, and after several days march reached the spot where Mr. A. Culberston 
had previously found the fossil Mammalia (Poebrotherium Wilsonii, Merycoido- 
don Culbertsonii, &c.) presented by him to the Academy of Natural Sciences, 
and described by Dr. Leidy. Here additional specimens were soon found, and 
a cart was laden to its utmost capacity. With these, the party returned to 
Fort Pierre, whence, after a short rest, Mr. C. embarked on board the Hl Paso, 
and in her, ascended the Missouri to a point above Milk river, some hundreds 
of miles beyond Fort Union, and higher than any steamboat had ever gone 
previously. Descending the river again, after but short stops at the various 
trading posts, Mr. ©. arrived in St. Louis in July, and reached his home in 
Chambersburg, Pennsylvania, in August. The main object of his trip, viz: 
relief from a distressing cough, threatening consumption, had been gained, and 
his renewed strength gladdened the hearts of his friends. But shortly after 
his return he was attacked by an unusually fatal form of bilious dysentery, then 
prevalent in the neighborhood, and died after an illness of a few weeks. [5th 
Ann. Rep. Smithsonian Inst. 1850, p. 44.] 


8 Baird’s biographer wrote: “On the day this letter [Feb. 16, 1850] was written Baird 
had been to Chambersburg to bid goodbye to Dr. [Joseph] Culbertson, who was about to 
start for the far West. For collections to be made by him the Smithsonian had made a 
small appropriation” (Dall, 1915, p. 207). It was, of course, Thaddeus, not his father, 
who was leaving for the West. 


4 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BULL. 147 


Thaddeus made good use of his opportunities. The fossil remains he 
brought back with him constituted, in the words of Baird, “an exceed- 
ingly interesting series of Mammalian and Reptilian species including 
many that had never been described (ibid., p. 44). In addition he 
obtained for the Smithsonian skulls, skins, and skeletons of buffalo, 
grizzly bear, white wolf, prairie wolf, beaver, and other animals. Some 
of these he had taken himself; others were the gift of Alexander’s 
associates and employees.® He also made a collection of plants along 
the Upper Missouri.’° 

It was the fossil remains that most deeply interested Baird and the 
Smithsonian. On the 1st of September Baird wrote enthusiastically to 
his brother, William M. Baird: 


The greatest treasures of the summer, however, were embraced in 7 boxes of 
specimens collected by Mr. Culbertson on the Upper Missouri. Among these were 
Skins, Skeletons, and skulls of Elk, Buffalo, Grizzly Bear, Wolves, Antelope, 
Deer, Beaver, Badger, Wolverene, &c. Best of all were some fossil teeth, skulls 
and bones of vertebrate animals from the Mauvaise Terres of the Platte. These 
were embedded in a calcareous marl and belonged to genera allied to Tapir, 
Anoplotherium, Palaeotherium & other extinct forms. Most are entirely new, 
all are completely petrified, the cavities of the long bones being entirely filled 
with quartz. There are turtle shells over an inch thick, and I have three nearly 
perfect, one weighing about 150 Ibs. These things of course belong to the Smith- 
sonian. The freight alone amounts to $68.00 and the whole cost of getting will 
probably amount to $200.00. [Dall], 1915, p. 218.] 


Having obtained the specimens the next step was to reduce them to 
order and to determine their significance. For this Baird turned to 
Joseph Leidy, since the latter had worked with the Alexander Culbert- 
son collection, and in a letter from Washington, November 18, 1850, 
he asked Leidy to undertake a memoir on mammals and reptiles of the 
Bad Lands: 


... What are the genera from the Bad Lands like? I received last summer 
a collection of perhaps twenty species of mammalia and reptiles, principally 
the former, from there, on behalf of the Smithsonian. These are, many of them, 
in excellent preservation, some nearly, even quite, perfect sets of teeth, ete. What 
do you say to taking up these and preparing an extended memoir for the Smith- 
sonian? How long would it take you to do this? Could you not go right to 
work and anticipate Owen and Norwood? unless, indeed, they put their material 
into your hands, as they should do. It will take them a long time to prepare 
a correct history of these things, as I do not suppose that they have up to 


®“Many specimens brought back by Mr. Culbertson were presented, to the Institution 
through him, by members of the American Fur Company ; among whom may be mentioned 
Messrs. Alexander Culbertson, Ferdinand Culbertson, Edward [Edwin] T. Denig, Schlagel, 
and Gilbert [Galpin]. Messrs. Denig, and F. Culbertson, at the request of Mr. Alexander 


Culbertson, prepared skins of the Grizzly Bear, and other large Mammalia. ... It is due 
to this company to state, that with their usual liberality, they rendered Mr. C. every 
assistance in their power . . .” (ibid., pp. 42-44). 


a The list of plants was published with his Journal in the Annual Report of the 
Smithsonian Institution for 1850, pp. 133-136, and is here reprinted in Appendix 1. 


McDurMorr] INTRODUCTION 5 


this time paid as much attention to the subject as you have, and it is a pity 
to lose the time they would require. 

With regard to the exploration of that country, not much could be done in a 
single season. Evans has spent two seasons there, and Thaddeus Culbertson 
one. Between these, you could only glean here and there... . [Dall, 1915, 
p. 251.) 


It hardly needs to be added that the Alexander Culbertson gifts to the 
Academy of Natural Sciences, the Thaddeus Culbertson collection for 
the Smithsonian, the specimens owned by Dr. Prout of Saint Louis, 
and a collection owned by a Professor O’Loghland of Saint Louis, 
together with those made by Dr. John Evans and Captain Stewart 
Van Vliet were all used by Leidy in his study of the animal remains 
of the Bad Lands." 

Although to the paleontologist the fossil remains were the most 
exciting result of Thaddeus Culbertson’s journey to the Bad Lands, 
the ethnologist and the historian have much reason to be pleased with 
the journal that he kept during the trip. Baird reported to the Smith- 
sonian that “Mr. C. left a full journal of all the events connected with 
his trip.” It was not intended for publication and remained unrevised 
at his death, but Baird found it “to contain much interesting matter 
relative to the Natural History and topography of the country, the 
manners and statistics of the Indians, &.” (Ann. Rep. Smithsonian 
Inst. 1850, p. 44). He applied to the family for permission to publish, 
and was told by Ferdinand Culbertson to select whatever portions he 
thought fit for inclusion in his report. 


Chambersburg, Feby., 25, 1851. 

Dear SIR: 

Yours of the 15th duly came to hand, and would have answered you before 
this time, but being absent, did not receive it before yesterday. 

In regard to my going to the upper Miss® this next spring is now doubtfull, 
but in case I should, will let you know in time. 

The wampum shells or moons you speak off [sic] are of no account in that 
county now, at one time they were very valuable, but at this time are perfect 
dung. 

About publishing my cousin’s journal of that county, I do not think the com- 
pany could have any objections, unless there is something mentioned in it which 
might relate to the trade, but I would refer you to a member in Congress from 
Minosotta [sic], (his name I do not know) who my uncle tells me is a member 
of the company. 

Nothing would give me more pleasure than to visit you at Washington City, 
but I do not expect to be near that for some time, please receive my thanks for 
your kind invitation, and believe me 

Your most obt 
Frerp. CULBERTSON 


U YLeidy, 1854. Credit to the individual collections was made with the discussion of 
each specimen. Captain Van Vliet, U. S. A., was with Alexander Culbertson on his trip 
from Fort Pierre to Fort Laramie and made his collection at that time, too. 


6 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [ BULL, 147 


I expect letters from the Miss*. soon if there is anything interesting in them 
I will send them to you 

My father sends his best respects.” 

Sometime in 1851 about two-thirds of the original journal, some- 
what cut and revised, was published under the title of “Journal of 
an Expedition to the Mauvaises Terres and the Upper Missouri in 
isa O ees 

It may be well to observe, [Baird wrote] that I have not felt at liberty to 
alter the original to any material extent, which, combined with the fact of its 
entire lack of revision by the author, will be a sufficient excuse for any imper- 
fections of style. [5th Ann. Rep. Smithsonian Inst. 1850, p. 44.] 
ven so, Baird did permit himself much editorial freedom. The 
most important of the changes he made in preparing the report for 
publication was the omission of the record for the first 514 weeks 
(March 19 through April 26), amounting to about three-tenths of 
the whole journal—a passage which described the journey from Saint 
Louis until the Culbertsons were beyond the James River in South 
Dakota. Of the record for the next month about 15 percent was 
cut. From the scientific point of view most of the matter omitted 
was unnecessary for it was chiefly personal, but the record of Cul- 
bertson’s observation and thought is not complete without it. Besides 
striking out such paragraphs, Baird from time to time made a number 
of alterations in sentence structure and in diction. The kind of 
correction made can be best shown by parallel quotation. The first 
passage is the report as printed by Baird: 


Saturday, April 27, 11 A. M.—Yesterday was an exceedingly unpleasant day; 
we found a violent north wind blowing in the morning, nevertheless as soon as 
breakfast was over, we were off on the cheerless prairie. We saw but little wood; 
the road was hilly and ponds frequent. About ten o’clock, we crossed a small 
stream that gave us some trouble on account of the deep mud; but cold as the 
day was, the Indians waded through without hesitation. About twelve o’clock 
we came to a place where the land was cut up into steep hills and deep ravines, 
the latter containing a little scrubby timber. At one o’clock we reached the 
spot where the Indians had confidently expected to meet their chief, Old Eagle, 
who had been there hunting buffalo, but he was not to be found. The Indians 
appeared much disappointed and looked very sad. They had left a good place 
for hunting buffalo, and had come here where there were apparently none. 

There was every appearance of a violent snow-storm, but bad as our situa- 
tion was, we were thankful that it was no worse; had these indications overtaken 
us the night before, when there was not a stick of wood within miles, we might 


12 Hor the copy of this letter (to be found in Smithsonian Institution, Letters Received) 
I am indebted to Dr. M. W. Stirling, Director of the Bureau of American Ethnology. For 
“Miss” one should obviously read “Missouri”; for “county” read “country.” 

123 Annual Report of the Smithsonian Institution, for 1850, pp. 84-132. The Report was 
submitted to the Senate on March 1, 1851, and ordered published on March 7. De Smet 
wrote to Denig from Saint Louis in May 1852: ‘Tell him [Alexander C.] that I read 
with the greatest pleasure and profit to myself the ably written journal of the expedition 
to the Upper Missouri of his worthy brother Thaddeus . . .” (Chittenden and Richardson, 
1905, vol. 4, p. 1481). De Smet must have seen the printed copy. 


McDerMorT] INTRODUCTION "6 


well have been filled with apprehension, but here we had wood, water and grass, 
and were encamped in a ravine, well sheltered from the storm. About eight 
o’clock we retired to our beds in the waggon, anticipating a cheerless day of in- 
activity on the morrow. We were, however, agreeably disappointed, and at about 
four o’clock, I was awakened by the bustle of preparation for departure. 


But Culbertson’s original day-by-day journal reads as follows: 


Saturday. 11 A. M. April 27.—Yesterday was an exceedingly unpleasant day 
to travel; when we arose we found a violent north wind blowing but as soon as 
we had breakfasted we were off on the dreary, cheerless prairie. We saw but 
little wood but as the road was hilly ponds were frequent; about ten Oclock we 
crossed a little stream that gave us some trouble because of the mire; cold 
as the day was the indians waded through without hesitation. About 12 Oclock 
we came into a very hilly section; the land was cut up into steep hills and deep 
ravines with a little scrubby timber in them. At 1 Oclock we reached the spot 
where the indians had been certain of meeting Old Eagle who had been there 
hunting buffalo, but Old Eagle was not to be found; he had been there but had 
gone and now our indians looked sad; they had left a good place for buffalo 
and had come here where there apparently were none. We also had depended 
on getting some dried meat here and were at first apprehensive of being short of 
provisions should bad weather overtake [us] ; but a review of the larder showed 
a supply for 8 or 10 days. There was every appearance of a terrible storm and 
oceasionally it would snow terribly, but bad as our situation promised to be we 
were thankful that it was not worse; had these appearances of a storm overtaken 
us the night before when there was not a stick of wood within two miles we 
might have been filled with real apprehension for our safety, but here we had 
wood, water and grass convenient and we were in a cooly [sic] well sheltered from 
the storm. 

The afternoon passed away rapidly we had a good fire in the lodge and had 
for a dinner a most delicious piece of meat roasted before the fire; after dinner 
I got out my sewing apparatus and put two buttons on my coat, and fixed our 
hats with strings to tie under the throat. About 8 Oclock we went to rest in 
our wagon anticipating a day of cheerless rest on the morrow, but providence 
was kinder to us than we anticipated and about 4 Oclock this morning we were 
awakened by the stir around indicating a day of travel and sure enough it has 
been a most delightful day. 


How much was omitted, how extensive were the alterations of sentence 
structure and diction in the final section of the Journal (May 28, 
through July 6), it is impossible to say since the original for most of it 
does not exist. The Journal as now reprinted is restored as nearly as 
possible to its original state. 

The Journal of an Expedition to the Mauvaises Terres and the Upper 
Missouri in 1850 is valuable not merely because it adds to our know]l- 
edge of the Indians and the fur trade of the Missouri River but also 
because it is the only account of them for this year. Not one of the 
four principal sources for the decade centering around 1850 has any- 
thing to contribute for the year of Culbertson’s trip. Larpenteur, who 
spent many years before and after this date in the Missouri trade, was 
on the Mississippi until May and for the remainder of the year was at 


8 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [ BULL, 147 


Vermilion Post. Captain La Barge’s many trips up the river have 
been reported in detail by his biographer Chittenden or by persons who 
accompanied him, but Chittenden dismissed the year 1850 with half a 
dozen lines. By this time, too, De Smet was an old traveler in the 
Missouri Country, but 1850 was one of those years when he did not go 
to the Northwest. Kurz, who has proved to be one of the most valuable 
of observers for that region and period, has made us rich with material 
for 1851 and 1852 but during 1850 he was living in the neighborhood of 
Saint Joseph (Kurz, 1937). It is to Thaddeus Culbertson that we 
must look for information about conditions on the Upper Missouri in 
1850. 

On the 19th of March Thaddeus set out from St. Louis with his 
brother Alexander, their party including 4 voyageurs, a Negro servant, 
10 horses, and a dog named Carlo. More than 250 cabin passengers 
and 200 deck passengers in a boat designed for about 100 made the 
beginning of the trip crowded but fascinating to the young man seeing 
the West for the first time. He noted down his impressions of the 
towns they passed: St. Charles, Hermann, Jefferson City, Boonville, 
but for most of them the entries are brief since they did not land. 
Most interesting here perhaps is the description of the Capitol. He 
read his French Bible, he read about missionary labors in Tahiti, he 
wrote to his friend Will Cattell. Occasionally the Mary Blane ran 
aground or passed a wreck or met another steamboat. Lexington, 
Liberty Landing, the Independence Landings, the village of Kansas 
were worth some remark. At the latter place Thaddeus saw Indians, 
possibly for the first time. On the morning of the 26th they reached 
Weston and the next day Saint Joseph, where they landed and 
remained 2 days. 

They now traveled by land. When they set off on the morning of the 
29th Alexander was driving a team of mules in a carriage and Thad- 
deus was riding one of the horses bought from “old Mr. Robidoux.” 
The boredom that Thaddeus had begun to feel on the boat was gone in 
the delight he took in riding. They passed through Savannah (they 
were, of course, traveling on the left bank of the Missouri), crossed the 
Nodaway River, the two Tarkios, the Nishnabotana, and passed into 
the State of Iowa. Thaddeus had to reconcile himself to the idea of 
Sunday travel. The prairies, the valleys, the log cabins of the pio- 
neers, the little settlements are described. Occasionally he would re- 
port some overnight hotel as a “miserable dirty place,” but he was 
being broken in to the conditions of prairie travel, for he could add 
“nevertheless I have just eaten a very hearty supper.” His first 
glimpse of a fur trader at home he had when they visited Peter Sarpy 
at the Bellevue Post. Mormons he saw in great number at Kanesville. 


McDERMorT] INTRODUCTION 9 


Of natural features perhaps it was the bluffs that drew most comment 
from him. 

He noted the last of the settlements when they passed the Little 
Sioux River. At Floyd’s Bluff a whiskey trader had set up business, 
but from that point on the only persons met were either fur traders or 
Indians. The record became one of the lonesomeness of the prairies, 
the difficulty of crossing rivers, the inclemency of the weather, inter- 
spersed with comments on food and occasional appreciations of scenery. 
The journey, for Thaddeus, was so hard that, when they arrived at 
Vermilion Post (the first establishment in the Indian country), his 
brother decided the party should lie over for 2 days to rest. But, in 
spite of the fatigues, the younger man felt that his health was already 
improved: “I bear the cold, the wind, the fatigue of riding, or walking 
and then am ready for my meals and enjoy them plain as they may be 
and not excessively clean, and then I sleep soundly and rise refreshed.” 

Their route now was northwest, roughly paralleling the Missouri, 
but perhaps 10 or 15 miles from it. The report of river crossings, of 
camping places, of new sights, of the extreme weather is kept lively 
and interesting by a good deal of detail. On the 18th of April he 
spilled his ink and was forced to use a pencil until he was able to get 
a new supply at Fort Pierre. He hunted. He observed the Indians. 
He made note of the Yankton Trading House, the first building he 
slept in since leaving Vermilion Post. At last, on the 4th day of May, 
they reached Fort Pierre. 

After a rest of several days, Thaddeus left the Fort for the Bad 
Lands, accompanied by Owen McKenzie, an able, intelligent, and 
pleasant Indian son of the great Kenneth McKenzie, and by a man 
named Joe, whom Culbertson described as an experienced hunter at- 
tached to the Fort. They had a buggy and provisions for three weeks; 
“the whole equipment is at the cost of Alexander.” In the days of 
travel up the Bad River Valley young McKenzie told Thaddeus much 
about the country and the Indians. On the fifth day out (May 11) 
they reached the beginning of the mawvaises terres and Thaddeus gave 
much of his space to description of the topography, bursting into 
enthusiastic picturing of the fantastic shapes in the Bad Lands. He 
recorded, too, the finding of the petrified turtles and other animal 
remains. He did not remain long in this region, for, he tells us: 

I had seen enough of the Lands to give a general description of that portion 
of them and had secured a few good specimens. To do more than this would 
have required good horses to ride and I had only a pair of very indifferent mules ; 
the weather was intensely hot and no water to be had in them so that it would 
have been a great labor to have examined them more thoroughly and besides 


this I felt that a mere general examination such as my limited means and time 
would allow would be of but little service. I had already done enough to excite 


890780—51——2 


10 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BuL, 147 


inquiry and further exploration must be made by scientific men with a corps 
of assistants. One day more might have secured a Big Horn but this would 
hardly justify my stay. 

Thaddeus and his companions reached the Fort again on the 18th; 
during their 11 days’ absence he estimated that they had traveled about 
300 miles. 

For nearly 3 weeks Culbertson stayed at Fort Pierre but time did 
not drag on his hands. Many pages of the journal are filled with the 
variety of activities to which the traveler devoted himself. After 
a few days of rest he was roaming the countryside, botanizing, hunting, 
skinning and stuffing specimens to be sent home. He collected Indian 
objects. He visited the Indians in their village. He watched them 
play bandy and billiards. He went to a dance and heard Indian 
music for the first time. He made note of Indian marital, family, 
and burial customs. He was interested in their secret societies. He 
went to a feast for visiting Indians. In these excursions he was 
guided by Charles Galpin and William Hodgkiss, one of Bonneville’s 
men, and learned much from them. The Fort itself he described in 
great detail as well as the life there and the manner in which the 
trading was conducted. He found time, also, to read a life of the 
Scottish preacher McCheyne and Lynch’s account of his expedition 
to the Dead Sea. Schiller’s “Robbers,” which he read in translation, 
filled some hours. He wrote extensively in his journal and at the 
end of the month prepared a long report to Spencer F. Baird con- 
cerning the trip into the Bad Lands. With the aid of Galpin he 
made a “Tabular View” of the Sioux Indians. At last, however, the 
steamer #7 Paso arrived at Fort Pierre and on the 5th of June he 
was once more on his travels up the Missouri. 

Culbertson said little of the #7 Paso at this point in his narrative; 
it will be pertinent, therefore, to interrupt him for a bit. On May 
7, 1850, the Missouri Republican announced that the steamboat had 
been chartered for the Yellowstone: 

The steamer Hl Paso is now being prepared at the upper end of the wharf 
for a voyage of seventeen hundred miles,“ and which will occupy nearly or 
quite three months. She has been chartered by the house of P. Chouteau, Jr., 
& Co., at the rate of $1,200 per month, and will leave, in all probability, about 
the latter end of the present week, under the charge of that old and experienced 
boatman John Durack. She will start with about two hundred tons of freight, 
consisting of ammunition, stores, clothing, &c., and with nearly one hundred 
trappers and hunters as passengers on board. This is the annual expedition, 
prepared and fitted out every season by the Fur Company, and it is the longest 
inland voyage performed by steamers in the world. The cargo of the boat is 


destined for the use of the company’s trading posts, and the Indians and men 
in their employ in that region; and those of them that now go up are principally 


144 That is, the Hl Paso expected to go 1,700 miles up river. 


McDERMorT] INTRODUCTION bis 


hardy mountaineers, many of whom have formerly enjoyed the luxuries of civil- 
ized life, and who, like the whalemen, return once in two or three years to 
witness the changes and improvements made and going on in their native city.* 


More than a week later the same newspaper reported that the 7 
Paso had departed on Saturday, the 11th; according to this story she 
carried 70 or 80, not 100, trappers and hunters (Missouri Republican, 
May 15, 1850). For the voyage to Fort Pierre we must turn to the 
extracts from her log published in the Missouri Republican, July 8, 
1850. 


The Hl Paso left St. Louis on her upward trip to the head waters of the 
Missouri, at 12 m., May 6th, 1850.% During the journey the weather was gen- 
erally cool and pleasant, with occasionally a severe gale or heavy fall of rain. 
On one occasion, in the middle of June, the wind blew so strong, as for several 
hours to preclude the possibility of making any headway, and to oblige us to 
lie by. 

The condition of the river was at several points such as to require the utmost 
exertions of all our united forces to prosecute the trip. On the 18th of May, 
when near the mouth of Wolfe River, we ran afoul of a snag which crashed our 
blacksmith shop, carrying overboard our bellows, &c. On the 238d of the fol- 
lowing month three or four beams in our hold were started in the same way. 
At the occurrence of the latter accident, some of the crew were sent out in the 
yawl furnished with axes, &c., to clear us a passage through the snags; we found 
this precaution necessary on several subsequent occasions. The greater part 
of the 21st day of May, was spent near the mouth of Platte River, where we 
encountered four Mackinaw boats belonging to the American Fur Company, and 
where Mr. Picot [Picotte] desired to consummate some arrangements with the 
persons having charge of them. We here saw quite a large party of emigrants 
to California crossing the river; they appeared all in fine health and spirits. 
Two persons belonging to the boat, were accidentally left at this point. When 
a few miles further, we sent back for them, but to no purpose—they could not 
be found. 

On the 29th, we were visited by some traders in the employ of Mr. Sarpy, and 
on the 30th, by a band of Sioux Indians. To the latter we made presents of 
sugar, coffee, powder, balls &c., &c. They were very friendly, and showed every 
manner of gratitude for the presents. We continued to see and be visited by 
Indians, from this time until we had reached our journey’s end; and at various 
times took aboard several parties of them. 


Twenty-four days from Saint Louis, the Z7 Paso reached Fort 
Pierre where it dropped Dr. John Evans, the geologist, with whom 
Thaddeus had an encouraging talk about the Bad Lands, and took on 
the Culbertson brothers. 


18 According to Chappell (1905-6 b, p. 301) the Hl Paso was 180 feet by 28 feet, T. H. 
Brierly was the master, and John Durack was the captain; it was sunk in the bend below 
Boonville, Mo., April 10, 1855. Both Brierly and Durack were men of long experience 
on the Missouri Rivers. Durack, for example, was first mate to La Barge on the Nimrod 
in 1844 (Chittenden, 1903, vol. 1, pp. 163-164). Brierly operated among other boats the 
Ben W. Lewis, the James H. Lucas, the Morning Star, and the Polar Star (Chappell, 
1905-6 b, pp. 299, 304, 307, 308). 

16 A number of errors apparently crept into this news report of the trip. It is certain 
that the Hl Paso left Saint Louis on the 11th. 


12 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BULL, 147 


Thaddeus settled down to the recording of a not very energetic but 
novel and quite interesting trip. 

This is certainly the most agreeable traveling I have ever experienced [he 

wrote on the 7th of June] the air is delightful—the shores and trees quite green— 
only three of us on board, besides the Captain, who are really companions; my- 
Self, the only “distinguished” stranger, living on the best, and treated with the 
most generous kindness and respect—all these things combine to render the 
trip as delightful as possible.” 
He made ample descriptive notes of the country through which they 
passed and of practically every other possible matter of interest. At 
wooding places he took advantage of the opportunity to botanize. 
They reached Fort Clark on the morning of the 12th and there Thad- 
deus found occasion to write at length of the Rees, their lodges, and 
what else he could observe during a ceremonial call at the village. 
Three hours sufficed, however, to unload freight at Fort Clark and 
they were off again in midmorning. 

Fort Berthold, some 60 miles above Fort Clark, they arrived at the 
next morning. On the evening of the 16th they landed at Fort Union 
at the mouth of the Yellowstone, and Culbertson wrote that the E7 
Paso had made “the trip of twenty-five hundred miles in thirty-six 
days and four hours, the quickest one on record.” Here they met 
EK. T. Denig and cousin Ferdinand Culbertson, who “showed me 
quite a good collection of stuffed skins made by them for Professor 
Baird, at the request of my brother. This must have cost them a great 
deal of labor and considerable expense, and they deserve many thanks 
from the students of natural history for whose benefit this collection 
was made.” Before noon the next day they were once more on their 
way up river; Culbertson reported they would “probably go much 
higher than any other boat has ever gone.” On the 20th of June, 
having reached a spot a few miles above the mouth of Milk River, 
some 2,700 miles above Saint Louis, Captain John Durack posted a 
sign announcing his record; maps soon acknowledged this place as 
El Paso Point. Since this was an occasion of pride and importance 
to Captain Durack, I continue with the log of the £7 Paso: 

On the 11th of June a considerable quantity of floating ice was met in the 
river. We experienced much difficulty in getting over the sand bars, and on 
the day following landed at Ft. Clark, where we took aboard a quantity of corn. 
Mr. Clark and Mrs. Meldrum,” took passage with us on the 15th, and on the 
following day, June 16th, we passed the mouth of the Yellow Stone; lying by 
that night at Fort Union. The 17th, a portion of our freight was landed at Fort 


Benton, and in the afternoon of the same day, we passed Mackenzie’s wintering 
houses, on a bar in the middle of the river. 


17'The third of these companions was Honoré Picotte, who had come up from Saint Louis 
on the Hl Paso in charge of the Fur Company’s business. 
18 This must be a misprint for Mr. Meldrum. 


McDrrMorrT] INTRODUCTION 13 


A Mackinaw boat, in tow of the Hl Paso, was sunk on June the 18th, at Elk 
Horn, Pyramid Prairie. Mr. Honore Picot, for many years Commander or Super- 
intendent at Fort Pierre, here went ashore with a number of his men, and col- 
lected a large quantity of elk horns, which have been brought down by the 
Hl Paso.” At 2 o’clock P. M., of the same day, we passed the point where the 
steamer Assinebois [Assiniboine] had wintered some years ago—the highest 
point ever before or since attained by steamboats. The Assinebois, it is remem- 
bered, was frozen, and before the end of winter entirely broken up. 

On the 20th of June we got eight miles above the mouth of Milk river, being 
about three hundred and fifty miles above the mouth of the Yellow Stone. Our 
freight and the traders were all landed here. A board bearing the following 
inscription was fixed on a tree, by the passengers: “The Hl Paso landed at this 
point on the 20th of June, 1850—thirty five days from St. Louis: John Durack, 
Captain.” We commenced our downward trip the same day. In the latter days 
of the journey we saw on either shore large bands of buffaloes, deer and elk, 
and succeeded in killing, at different times, many of all.” 


Thaddeus Culbertson’s account of the down-river trip is brief. On 
the 21st they stopped at the Elk Horn Prairie, because Mr. Picotte 
wanted to take the horns down to Saint Louis. They arrived at Fort 
Union on the evening of the same day and on the 22nd Thaddeus 
parted from his brother. “At half past seven o’clock we moved off, 
firing a salute to the men belonging to the fort who had come over to 
help us take in fuel. Alexander was with them and the last sight I 
had of him he was standing up in the boat which was just pushing 
off.” The trip was enlivened a bit by the unexpected antics of Picotte. 
One evening when they landed Picotte “was seen running up a very 
steep, high bluff, and while we were admiring his activity he called 
to us; we all at once started off, supposing he had seen game. Mr. 
Clark taking his rifle, and Ferd his knife; but on coming up to him 
we were much amused to hear the old man instead of pointing out 
the game, ask us to slide down the hill to the water’s edge.” ‘The 
serious young man continued: “Fortune favored me at this place, for 
as we descended the hill, I saw for the first time in my life, the cactus 
in bloom. It was a most agreeable surprise to find this unsightly 
plant which is the great annoyance of moccasined voyageurs adorned 
with flowers of a fine straw color.” 

The £7 Paso reached Fort Pierre on the afternoon of the 28th and 
there Picotte remained. The next day the St. Ange passed, upward 
bound. “Capt. Durack raised a flag, but the civility was not returned,” 


19 According to Culbertson, these horns were taken on board during the trip down. 

20 Missouri Republican, July 8, 1850. Only one more paragraph of Durack’s log was 
printed: ‘“‘A number of cases of cholera occurred on board during the month of May, six 
of which terminated fatally. A man named Deshau died on the 15th, above Liberty Landing. 
One named Richard Adams, was buried on the 16th below Iatan. Another whose name 
was not ascertained, was buried on the 17th, near Savannah Landing. Charles Bardotte, 
the 5th, was buried on the 18th, and the 6th, named Leperie, was buried on the 21st. Two 
or three other cases of the disease were cured.” 


14 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Buuu. 147 


Culbertson reported in Saint Louis, “and the boats passed each other 
without exchanging any words.” #4 On the 2d of July Thaddeus met 
Larpenteur at Vermilion Post. Then in rapid succession the #7 Paso 
steamed by Council Bluffs, Saint Joseph, Parkville, and other river 
towns to arrive at Saint Louis at 2 P. M. on Saturday the 6th of July. 
Thaddeus Culbertson’s western trip was over and his journal came 
to a close. 


21 Weekly Reveille, July 8, 1850, p. 4273. The Reveille credited its “latest from the 
Yellowstone” to Mr. F [T]. A. Culbertson of Chambersburg. The information supplied by 
Thaddeus merely duplicates what has already been given. It may be added that “Mr. 
Malcolm Clark, who has been nine years in the Indian country, and is stationed among the 
Blackfeet Indians; Mr. Disantel [Desautel], from Fort Clark, among the Riccarees, and 
Mr. Kipp, from Fort Berthould, together with three other traders, came as passengers on 
the El Paso to the city” (ibid.). It is possible that one of these others was Ferdinand 
Culbertson, since he is mentioned in the Journal on the down-river trip and was in 
Pennsylvania in February of 1851. 


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JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE MAUVAISES 
TERRES AND THE UPPER MISSOURI IN 1850 


By Tuappreus A. CULBERTSON 


DEPARTURE FROM ST. LOUIS ” 


STEAMER, MARY BLANE, MISSOURI RIVER 


Thursday March 21 1850—About 12 O’clock on the night of Tuesday 
last we left St. Louis on board the Mary Blane * bound for St. Joseph’s. 
Our company consists of my brother Alexander, three voyageurs, one 
black servant and ten horses.** The boat is crowded to overflowing 
having about 250-300 cabin besides 200 deck passengers and certainly 
she cannot accomodate more than 100 with much comfort; however 
because of the number of us and of our freight (horses) the clerk gave 
us accomodation in the pilot’s room. It contains four berths and we 
have for our room mates Col. Tilton of Polk County, Missouri, and Mr. 
Tutt of the same state ; the colonel is an old pioneer having come to this 
part of the country from Kentucky : being accustomed to travelling on 
all kinds of craft and in all kinds of crowds, he was ready to make the 
best of our situation, and to unite with us in doing the best we could. 
Being well acquainted with my Uncle James * in his younger days we 
soon became well acquainted and we have found him a very agreeable 
traveling companion. We soon found the advantage of having our 
own servant, for it was exceedingly difficult, on account of the crowd, to 
get to the table and when there it was very unpleasant because of the 


2 The first portion (about one-third) of the Culbertson Journal is reproduced from the 
Bureau of American Ethnology manuscript, which is a revised copy of the original notebook 
carried by Culbertson on the trip and now in the possession of the Missouri Historical 
Society of Saint Louis. It is here reproduced without change from the original manuscript. 
(See page vir of Preface.) 

73 According to the Missouri Republican, March 19, 1850, the Mary Blane, J. F. Allen, 
master, a “fine light draught passenger boat,” left Saint Louis for Weston and Saint Joseph 
at 12 noon on the 19th. 

% A note on the fly leaf opposite the first page of the original journal gives the names 
of four voyageurs and the cook: Nerselle, Canadian ; Vincent, Italian; Antoine, Canadian ; 
Angelo, Italian; Jim (black), cook. The first of these names is later spelled Nersalle, 
Nassel, and Nasselle. 

75 James Culbertson was the youngest of the 12 children of Col. Robert ( 1755-1801) and 
Annie Duncan Culbertson (1755-1827). He was born in Pennsylvania, October 12, 1799, 
and died in Palmyra, Mo., in 1873. (See L. R. Culbertson, 1893, pp. 163-164, 167). 


15 


16 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BuLD. 147 


rough characters on board. We told our man Jim to bring our meals 
into our cabin, and as the head-Steward proved to be an old Chambers- 
burgher named Smith, this was easily done; indeed he was glad to do 
it for us, and we lived better than any party on board. I fix my trunk 
for a table and Jim brings us what we want and we enjoy it very much, 
seated on the other trunks or berths. 

To-day we had among other good things a most excellent wild duck, 
admirably cooked, and it was admirably eaten too. Dinner has just 
been dispatched and I am writing on the upper berth with A. enjoying 
a siesta on the lower one and our fine little dog Carlo enjoying one on 
the floor. We are now a little above Hermon [szc], a settlement of 
Swiss: we did not land, but the town has a fine appearance. It is the 
seat of one of the best Roman Catholic schools in the state. 

Yesterday we passed St. Charles City.?” This is a small place and 
presents a very plain appearance, bearing no comparison to that of 
Hannibal on the Mississippi. Last night the boat did not run because 
of the danger from snags, sand bars &c, so that we have not gone very 
far for the time that we have been out. 'To-day we are making better 
time; this morning as I was enjoying some letters from the East in my 
berth, the boat struck a bar with considerable force. Tutt was also 
in his berth and was quite alarmed; we both bounced out and found 
the guards and forward deck full but there was no danger and we were 
afloat in 5 minutes. The alarm was greater because the Rowena had 
been snagged last week and we had passed the wreck yesterday.% The 


2° Hermann, on the south side of the Missouri about 5 miles below the mouth of the 
Gasconade River, is the county seat of Gasconade County, Mo. It had its beginning in 
1837 in the purchase of Gasconade lands by the German Settlement Society of Philadelphia. 
In 1850 the town had a population of 943. (For its history, consult History of Franklin, 
Jefferson, Washington, Crawford, and Gasconade Counties, Missouri, pp. 657-681 ; Missouri, 
a Guide to the “Show Me” State, pp. 393-394; Bek, 1907.) 

77 Saint Charles, Mo., was first settled by Louis Blanchette about 1769 and became known 
by its present name about a dozen years later. It was the seat of government in Missouri 
from 1820 to 1826. When Culbertson saw it distantly, it had a population of 11,454. 
(Consult Houck, 1909, vol. 2, pp. 79-86; Missouri, a Guide to the “Show Me” State, 
pp. 260-268.) 

*2“The fine steamer Rowena, Capt. Jewett, in descending the Missouri river, about 2 
o’clock, P. M. on Tuesday, struck a snag at the head of St. Charles Island, and immediately 
sunk in 12 or 15 feet of water. She was bound from Glasgow to this city, with a heavy 
eargo, all of which together with the boat will prove a total loss. There were a large 
number of passengers on board, and fortunately none were lost, or sustained serious injury. 
Shortly after sinking, the boat careened to one side, and at noon, yesterday, she had 
settled to her hurricane roof. The Rowena has been running two or three seasons, and 
at the time of sinking was in complete repair, and on her first trip in the Missouri this 
season. She is owned principally by her commander, Capt. Wm. C. Jewett, and was 
insured for about $8,000, partly here, and in Eastern offices. The cargo, which was a 
very valuable one, is no doubt fully covered, and unless a rise takes place sufficient to 
float the boat from her present position, a portion of it may be rescued in a damaged 
condition. 

“The steamer Fayaway arrived last evening with the officers and crew, and nearly all 
the cabin furniture, &c., of the sunken boat. 

“A transcript of the cargo will be found in another column’? (Missouri Republican, 
Thursday, March 14, 1850). 


McDzrMorr] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 17 


banks of the Missouri, except where there are bluffs, present an alluvial 
appearance and are constantly washing away; the water is therefore 
discolored presenting the appearance of water mixed with ashes, but 
it is not at all disagreeable to me on that account. I think that the 
scenery thus far has been more picturesque than that on the Ohio or 
Mississippi as far as I have seen it. 

Friday March 22nd—We have had another tedious day on the river. 
and have not yet reached Boonville.* This morning about 9 O’clock 
we got to Jefferson city, the capitol [sic] of Missouri and there our 
old friend Tilton left us: he has proved to be quite a pleasant travelling 
companion and we felt sorry to part company, especially as there is no 
one on board to supply his place; our companions are as rascally [un- 
pleasant] *° a set of fellows as could be easily found; nearly every man 
is at the card table sometime or other and some appear to play all 
night. Jefferson City has an unhappy location; it is built on several 
hills which allow no good place for business houses or for choice pri- 
vate dwellings; the state prison stands on the first hill reached as you 
come up the river and it is a fine looking building built in plain style; 
the next hill is intended for the governor’s house, but it is not now 
occupied by it as the former one, which stood there, was burnt; just 
beyond this hill is the levee and the Capitol Hill. 

The Capitol can be seen about 9 miles down the river and at a dis- 
tance has quite an imposing appearance. However a near view de- 
tracts somewhat from the effect because the stone of which it is built 
has been discolored by the weather and appears stained. It fronts 
down the river—is three stories high—has a large cupola and in the 
centre of the front, a semi-circular portico supported by five or six 
good looking pillars. I could not tell what order of architecture was 
attempted in its style. 

A few hours after leaving Jefferson City we took on board a quan- 
tity of stone coal; it looked very much like slate and would certainly 
have been rejected in Pennsylvania, but judging from the rapid speed 
of the boat it must be better than it looks. Wood is abundant along 
the river and when they have coal they mix them together. Steam 
boat life affords but little variety at best and on our boat no variety 
at all. 

Saturday March 23d—Still progressing slowly and tediously; it is 
rather tiresome pushing our way in such a crowd and on such a boat, 

2? Boonville, Cooper County, Mo., then had a population of 2,326. 

20 Bracketed words are generally variants from the Bureau of American Ethnology 
manuscript. : 

*1'The first sale of lots in Jefferson City was held in 1823; the town was incorporated in 
1825 and became the capital in fact in 1826. For its early years consult History of 
Cole . . . Counties, Missouri, pp. 276-299. The first capitol was burned in 1837; the 


one Culbertson saw was finished in 1842. The state prison was completed in 1836. The 
free population of Jefferson City (not including slaves) in 1850 was 1,400. 


18 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BuLL. 147 


but then it won’t do to complain. This morning we passed Glascow,” 
quite an important point, but a plain looking place situated on some 
very sterile hills on the north bank of the Missouri. The great amuse- 
ment of the passengers is card playing, which I dispise, but I took my 
seat in the midst of them this morning and enjoyed very much the con- 
clusion of a little book called “Night of toil”; it gives an account of the 
early missionary labors in Tahiti and neighborhood and it suggested 
to me some delightful religious thoughts. I was led to think espe- 
cially of the wonder of a revelation from God such as the Bible, and 
I hope to think much more of this marvelous fact. After dinner I 
found much pleasure in the account of the crucifixion as recorded in 
John’s Gospel and then wrote a long letter to my friend Will Cattell.* 

Sunday March 24—We are still getting slowly towards St. Joe; it 
would have been very agreeable to my feelings to have laid by to-day 
but that was out of my power. The day has not been regarded by 
most of the passengers except by refraining from cards; we have had 
more things to excite us than on any previous day; early in the morn- 
ing we ran aground and stuck there for an hour or two, during which 
time the steamer St. Ange“ passed us. While lying there we had a 
severe snow storm [with a strong blow] from the East. Soon after 
we got off the bar, the Minnesota® also passed much to the annoyance 
of our passengers. We moved on quietly until about noon, when in 
passing through a dangerous place filled with large snags, one paid a 
visit to our kitchen interfering somewhat with the dinner but doing 
no serious injury. The boat was in considerable danger but got off 
with no further hurt. This afternoon the sun shines out clear and of 
course it is warmer than in the morning but we have the prospect of a 
very cold night. We expect to reach Lexington in a few hours when 
we will lose a number of our passengers much to our comfort. 

To-day I have read considerably in my French Bible and hope to con- 
tinue doing so daily. Whenever I look into this Holy Book I feel that 
it is my place to have much shame because of the very little knowledge 
I have as yet gained of its contents. May God grant me a very great 


32 Glasgow, laid out in 1836, was named for James Glasgow, who settled first at Chariton 
and later moved to Saint Louis. (Consult History of Howard and Chariton Counties, 
Missouri, pp. 205-235; Missouri, a Guide to the “Show Me” State, pp. 351-352.) 

33 William Cassaday Cattell (1827-98), the son of Thomas W. Cattell, was born in 
Salem, N. J., was graduated from Princeton in 1848 and from Princeton Theological 
Seminary in 1852, and was ordained in 1856. He was president of Lafayette College at 
Harrisburg from 1863 to 1882 (DAB, vol. 3, p. 578). 

34 At this moment the St. Ange, Joseph La Barge, master, was on its way to Weston and 
would return to Saint Louis on the 31st (Missouri Republican, April 1, 1850). On a later 
trip (leaving Saint Louis May 28, 1850), it carried, among other passengers, the Hon. 
Henry J. Coke; the voyage from Saint Louis to Saint Joseph is described briefly in Coke 
(1852, pp. 81-88). (For more about the St. Ange and particularly about its trip to the 
Upper Missouri in 1850, see Appendix 4.) 

% The Minnesota, E. H. Glime, master, left Saint Louis on the 20th for Independence, 
Weston, and Saint Joseph (Missouri Republican, March 21, 1850). 


McDerMorr] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 19 


increase of a sanctifying knowledge of its truth. I read also some- 
what in Rugby School Sermons * and liked them much; thought of 
many of my dear friends far away—God bless them. 


LEXINGTON—LIBERTY—INDEPENDENCE 


Monday March 25th—To-day has passed with as little incident as 
the others; the M/ary Blane still manages to get up stream but she takes 
her own time for it; indeed it appears to me that Miss Mary is like 
some others of her sex—she requires a great deal of coaxing to do very 
little work. However, our load is much lighter than it was, having 
lost yesterday evening a number of passengers at Lexington.** ‘This is 
said to be quite a large town but as it is entirely on top of the bluff, and 
that a very high one, I did not see it. Liberty Landing * was reached 
about 10 O’clock this morning, and there we made a very short stay. 
The town is about 10 miles from the river. One of the Independence 
landings was reached soon after; from this one the town is distant 
about 7 miles; very few passengers landed here but 12 miles further up 
the river we came to another landing but 8 miles from the town and 
there a large number of our passengers went off.* Entertainment is 
here found in backwoods style, as passengers were informed by several 
signs attached to log houses; one of these, a small log house afforded 
entertainment for “Ladies and Gentlemen.” The Levee had a very 
brisk appearance while we were there as two boats were then putting 
freight ashore and a third had just done so. There were several con- 
veyances for passengers to the town; one of these a good four horse 
vehicle was at the lower landing, took a load from there—went to the 
town and came down to the upper landing ready to make some more 
“dimes.” 

As I was engaged in devotional meditations this afternoon my mind 
was led to think of the great dignity of being a child of God and to 
propose that to myself as a matter for future prayer and study. I 
formed also a plan for studying the prophetical Scriptures while in 
the mountains. Alexander spends his time very much as I do; we are 


38° Possibly Thomas Arnold, 1845. 

31 Lexington was laid out in 1822. For it, consult History of Lafayette County, Mis- 
souri, pp. 433-463; Missouri, A Guide to the ‘Show Me” State, pp. 373-377. At this time 
the population was 2,194. 

38 Liberty Landing was on the Missouri River about 3% miles from the town of Liberty, 
which had been laid out as the county seat of Clay County in 1822. (Consult History of 
Clay and Platte Counties, Missouri, pp. 280-373 ; Missouri, a Guide to the ‘“‘Show Me” State, 
pp. 516-518.) The United States Census for 1850 lists two towns of this name in Clay 
County ; one had 827 people, the other 2,730. The first apparently was Liberty Landing, 
the second Liberty proper. 

39 Independence, Jackson County, Mo., was founded in 1827. (Consult Whitney, 1908, 
vol. 1, pp. 32-55; History of Jackson County, Missouri, pp. 633-667. For interesting 
glimpses of this town in its early years, see W. Irving, 1944, p. 89; Latrobe, 1836, vol. 1, 
pp. 128, 140; John T. Irving, 1888, p. 11; McDermott and Salvan, 1940, pp. 103-105; 
Parkman, 1902, p. 9.) 


20 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [ BULL, 147 


both sick and tired of our boat and hope to get safe to St. Joe in a 
day or two. 
KANSAS—KANSAS RIVER 


We have just passed the village of Kansas; it is a new place but 
already has several good large brick warehouses below the bluff, while 
the town appears to extend back considerably above it.” Nine Indian 
men and a boy were standing on the shore and sang [saluted us with] 
a song as we came to land; they were all dressed in Indian costume 
and had their faces painted red. One of them went into the ladies 
cabin and staid until the boat was off; the passengers had a great deal 
of amusement about his getting off but at last the boat put ashore again 
and landed him. As we passed a small island about half a mile below 
the town Alexander told me that that island had once been exceed- 
ingly fertile and well cultivated and that about 10 years ago there 
was an excellent farm with fine improvements on the opposite shore; 
since that time the channel has entirely changed and where the boat 
then landed him is now but a little more than a swamp and the farm 
has again become a wilderness growing up with timber. This is a 
good illustration of the constant change going on along the Missouri. 
A very short distance above the town the Kansas River comes in; it is 
now about 200 yards wide; the land north of it belongs to the Indians 
and from this point we have the state on one side and the Indian coun- 
try on the other. The Missouri here changes its general course and 
flows in a direction nearly north and south; just below the Kansas 
the bank showed a layer of fine golden sand several feet thick and 
on it were several alluvial deposits making the soil 8 or 10 feet deep. 


WESTON 


Tuesday March 26th—This morning about 10 O’clock we got to 
Weston, a fine brisk looking place on the north bank of the Missouri.” 
Our ride to-day has had nothing exciting except the usual number of 
snags and sand bars. I saw thousands of wild geese on one bar; they 
have been very plenty for several days. Wrote several letters to-day— 
hope to reach St. Joe to-night. 


40 Kansas City had its beginning in Francois Chouteau’s trading post, established at the 
mouth of the Kaw in 1821. Flooded out some years later, he rebuilt a few miles east of 
his original location; a settlement developed there known as Chouteau’s Landing or 
Westport Landing. The town of Westport, a few miles south on the Santa Fe Trail, was 
laid out by John Calvin McCoy in 1833. The town of Kansas was platted at Westport 
Landing in 1838 and the village was incorporated as the “City of Kansas” in 1853. All 
these points are within the present limits of Kansas City. (Consult Garraghan, 1920; 
Miller, 1881; Missouri, a Guide to the “Show Me” State, pp. 241-248.) Miller gave the 
population of Kansas City in 1850 as between 700 and 800 (p. 48). 

“1 Weston, Platte County, Mo., laid out in 1837, was an important place in the plains 
trade until the shifting of the Missouri River in 1857 left the town high and dry inland. 
In 1850 Weston had a population of 1,915. One of its most famous early citizens was 
Ben Holladay, whose overland freighting business has been reported in Frederick, 1940. 
(Consult History of Clay and Platte Counties, Missouri, pp. 1038-85.) 


McDERMOrTT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 21 
ST. JOSEPH 


Wednesday March 26th—Reached St. Joseph’s # last night about 12 
O’clock and remained on board until morning; it was excessively 
cold during the night but has moderated considerably to-day. All 
our horses were landed safely and we took up our quarters at the 
Mansion House; before breakfast we had the pleasure of a very kind 
welcome from Alexander’s friend McDonald; he appears to be a 
man of a very kind spirit and ready to accommodate us in all things.* 
All of us have to-day been making little purchases of things needful 
for the trip and I have had occasion to be thankful for having so 
kind a brother; ever since Alexander proposed bringing me with him 
I have been stinted in nothing; he has been very generous in every 
thing and I hope to repay this kindness by a grateful spirit and by 
striving to succeed in the calling to which I have devoted myself. 
It is my prayer that this kindness may not go unrewarded. My out- 
fit purchased here is a fine saddle, bridle and martingale; a belt and 
knife, leggins and a few minor articles; these with my previous pur- 
chase prepare me I think for a trip to the mountains. The town is 
full of Californians and the whole business of the place appears to 
be able to “outfit” them. Horses, mules and cattle are in great de- 
mand bringing very high prices. French is spoken as commonly here 
as Dutch in Pennsylvania; it sounds strange to my ears to hear this 
language spoken so commonly, when heretofore it has been very rare 
for me to hear it. 

Thursday March 28th—Still at St. Joe and preparing for our trip. 
Weather cold, clear and pleasant. Wrote to several friends as it 
would be the last chance for sometime to come. Had a pleasant little 
ride in the country this morning and found Alexander’s mules to be 
all that he said—they travel quietly, quickly and well together. Not 
very well but hope to be able to be off in the morning. Our accomoda- 
tions at the hotel are very good indeed especially our room and beds; 
we enjoyed them exceedingly last night—Read a chapter to-day in 


42 Joseph Robidoux (see footnote 45, below) founded the town in 1842. Kurz, in Saint 
Joseph in April, 1848, wrote that: ‘‘there are evidences already of a rapidly expanding 
and flourishing city.’”’ His description of the frontier town with its mountain men, Indians, 
gold seekers, and the like, and his account of his life there for about 2 years is the most 
detailed and most interesting that we have for this period (Kurz, 1937, pp. 29-54). Father 
O’Hanlon (1890, pp. 105-106, 109-137) spent some months there in 1846-47. (Consult 
also History of Buchanan County, Missouri, pp. 385-954 ; Missouri, a Guide to the ‘‘Show 
Me” State, pp. 282-292.) The town in 1850 had a free population of 2,550. 

43This is possibly the Duncan McDonald of Orral Messmore Robidoux (1924, pp. 123- 
126) and the “MacD.” of Kurz (1937, pp. 68-69), who one night in the summer of 1848 
shot and killed young Charles Robidoux, having mistaken him for a robber. Miss Robidoux 
declared that after the trial he went broke, sold out his store, left town, and died a “miser- 
able drunkard.” Kurz in 1850, however, noted that he was merely a clerk in the store 
and that after his acquittal he returned to Saint Joseph to live. Alexander Culbertson’s 
friend might as well have been the brother of Duncan and the head man of the store. 

“Cf. Kurz, 1937, pp. 46-48. 


2D, BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [ BULL. 147 


1st John and found much pleasure and profit in thinking of the train 
of thought which was probably in the Apostle’s mind—hope that I 
understood his sentiments and was brought nearer to the cross by 
sympathizing with him. 

Friday March 29th—This morning about 9 O’clock we started from 
St. Joe on our trip by land. As we had spent two days there, resting 
the horses and making our preparations we had no detention to-day. 
My time there had been spent pleasantly enough as Mr. McDonald 
did all he could to make us feel comfortable and as our time was 
somewhat taken up in making purchases. Alexander bought from 
old Mr. Robidoux,*® the founder of the town, four fine horses for 
$245.00. This old man came to this place many years ago and traded 
with the Indians: he had a preemption right to the land and when 
the town was laid out, of course made a great deal of money. It isa 
good location for a town, as the bluff retires from the river and leaves 
a fine level place for the town, which can easily be drained into the 
river, but I have since been told that it will probably wash away. 
There are a number of fine large brick houses in the place and the court 
house is a handsome brick building standing on the highest point in 
the place. I have one of the Robidoux horses while I remain in the 
upper country; he is a fine quiet animal and an excellent pacer. This 
morning having put on my belt, knife and shot bag, I mounted my 
horse and rode with the men while Alexander drove the mules. We 
rode through a beautiful rolling country, poorly timbered but affording 
the most beautiful locations for farms. When well settled and culti- 
vated I think it must make one of the most lovely spots in our country. 
The sun was obscured by light floating clouds but it was a fine morning 
for riding and I enjoyed it much; had I been perfectly well it would 
have been very exhilerating; for the woods resounded with the sweet 
song of birds, so that I was constantly reminded of my delightful 
evening walks about Clifton.“ I was able to recognise the sweet 
notes of a beautiful crimson colored bird that was very common there 


“Joseph Robidoux (or Robidou or Roubidoux) III, the founder of Saint Joseph, was 
the son of Joseph Robidoux II (who with his father, also Joseph, had come from Montreal 
to Saint Louis in 1770) and Catherine Rollet dit Laderoute. He was born in Saint Louis 
in 1783, according to Tassé, or 1784, according to Billon. He was married twice: first 
to Eugenie Delisle, by whom he had a son Joseph; and second, to Angelique Vaudry of 
Cahokia, by whom he had seven children. He made his first voyage up the Missouri 
River in 1799 and thereafter was active with his father and others in the Missouri River 
fur trade. Although he had located there earlier as an agent of the company, he bought 
the Blacksnake Hills post from the American Fur Company in 1834 and laid out the town 
of Saint Joseph in 1842. According to Kurz, he platted 160 acres as city property; in 
1850 a building lot 40 x 140 ft. was bringing from $300 to $600. Robidoux died in Saint 
Joseph in 1868. Billon and Kurz report interesting anecdotes concerning him; Prince 
Maximilian and Bodmer found his house attractive. For him, consult Billon (1886, 
pp. 174-177, 444-445), Maximilian (1904-7, p. 257), Tassé (1878, pp. 119-129), Kurz 
(1937, pp. 54, 66-69). 


46 Possibly Clifton, W. Va., on the Ohio in Mason County about 15 miles north of Point 
Pleasant. 


McDprMorT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 23 


and soon I saw one hopping among the bushes. About 1214 O’clock 
we reached the town of Savannah, 14 miles N. E. of St. Joe; it pre- 
sented a pretty appearance at a distance but it did not look so well on 
a nearer approach.** We found Alexander there, unpacked the animals 
and had quite a good dinner, but the place was as dirty a hole [spot] 
as ever I entered. After dinner Alexander sold a pony he had for 
$35.00 and we came on five miles further. We started off again after 
dinner and passed through some prairie land which is bordered by 
scrub oak and tall bushes. The farms look as if they were excellent; 
hemp appears to be the staple here as elsewhere in Missouri. Here 
we have stopped for the night and have a prospect for a comfortable 
one. 

Saturday March 30—To-day we have come about 25 miles: at 114 
O’clock we stopped and finding some of the horses tired, Alexander 
has determined to remain here for the night. 

Mr. Terhune is the name of the person with whom we remained 
last night; “* he appears to be a man who by industry and economy 
has made himself comfortable; his farm is a beautiful one, and of the 
richest soil, and is valued by him at about $20 per acre, although this 
is above the average price of land. His house is a comfortable log 
one and on looking at the compass I noticed that it ranges due north 
and south, and on mentioning this to him he said that he so ranged 
it and that he had taken the direction by a rude but simple contri- 
vance. He had taken it from the north star by ranging with it two 
sticks, one of which had on its top a moveable piece of paper. Early 
in the morning we all arose refreshed by our night’s rest and found 
a clear bright refreshing morning instead of a rainy one as we had 
feared. 

We had breakfast and were on the road by 614 o’clock and again 
I was delighted by the cheerful songs of the birds. Our road lay 
through rolling prairies and we passed a number of very neat and 
comfortable looking farm houses; both Alexander and myself re- 
marked the superior air of neatness and thrift here over the farms in 
the heavy timbered land of Indiana. The difference shows the ad- 
vantage of prairie land over timbered land, for new settlers. 


47 Kurz went to Savannah, Andrew County, Mo., 14 miles above Saint Joseph, in April 
1850. According to him, this town was founded 8 years earlier than Saint Joseph but 
the better location of the latter town had enabled it to outstrip Savannah. Kurz was 
particularly interested in commenting on the camp meeting and other religious customs 
of the place and remained there apparently until sometime in 1851 (Kurz, 1937, pp. 53 ff.). 
Henry Coke set out overland from Saint Joseph on June 3, 1850, and traveled by the same 
road to Council Bluffs by way of Savannah and Kanesville. He arrived at the Bluffs 
on June 16. His account, however, is neither so detailed nor so interesting as that of 
Culbertson (Coke, 1852, pp. 88-106). Williams (1915, vol. 1, pp. 313-324) gives 1841 as 
the date when Savannah was laid off as the county seat of Andrews County, Mo. 

48 That is, at Savannah. 


24. BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [ Bux, 147 
NODAWAY RIVER—PRAIRIE 


About 10 o’clock we crossed Nodoway river * by a ferry; this is a 
narrow stream very much like Willis © in Virginia and is a tributary 
of the Missouri. After crossing this, we passed over a very extensive 
prairie; it is not level but rolling land, the hills generally having 
round tops with a gentle declivity on the sides; the view is most 
extensive and would be very beautiful if it was in the spring or sum- 
mer, but now everything presents the bleak aspect of winter. The 
wind blew quite hard as we passed over some of the knolls. There 
are pieces of woodland scattered here and there over the prairie and 
along the water courses. We had a long ride without any resting 
place and were rejoiced to see our stopping place about 114 miles 
ahead; here we again reach the Missouri bottom and can see the river 
away in the distance. 

Sunday March 31st—This day has not been spent as I have been 
accustomed to spend my sabbaths; we have been travelling all day 
instead of keeping the day sacred as we were wont [have been ac- 
customed] todo. And yet I do not think it has been a day altogether 
without profit to me; it has not been violated heedlessly; all agreed 
that it was my duty to undertake the trip for my health and therefore 
it is excusable for me to travel as those do with whom alone I can 
go. My mind has been very much engaged in meditating on some 
scriptural truths and I have read with considerable care several of 
the chapters in the Revelations. My thoughts also wandered to my 
distant friends and contrasted their privileges with my present situa- 
tion; it was good to think of them all—at home—at Princeton—at 
Clifton and while I found it pleasant to pray that God might bless 
them it was not less delightful to think that some of them would pray 
for me while enjoying their own quiet homes and churches. It is 
hard for me to realize the great contrast between my present situa- 
tion and what it was two months ago and yet it is my hope that I will 
gain no less spiritual advantage from this than from that! We have 
seen no churches to-day and no church going crowd, although there 
appears to be a general resting from labor. Judging from what I have 
seen, our Western Missionaires have a discouraging work to perform. 
We have travelled 25 miles and are now at a place called the English 
Grove.* We crossed to-day the Little and the Big Tarkio rivers. 


49 Nodaway River is the boundary between Andrew and Holt Counties. Having gone 
almost straight north from Saint Joseph to Savannah, they were now headed north-north- 
west through Holt County. Where they crossed the Nodaway is uncertain. 

50The Willis River rises in the southern part of Buckingham County, flows northeast 
through Cumberland, to enter the James River at Cartersville, Va. 

51It is possible that Culbertson should have written Irish Grove. A place of the latter 
name then existed in Atchison County, Mo., on the western bank of the Big Tarkio. It 
was a Station on the Saint Joseph and Council Bluff Stage line (to which Culbertson later 
refers) and is now part of the town of Milton. The 50 miles that Culbertson allows for 
the 2 days of travel since their leaving Savannah, the general direction given for their 


#* 


McDprMorT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 25 


Land fine—rolling prairies. Cloudy all day and rain morning and 
evening. 
NISHNABOTANA RIVER 


Monday April 1st—To-day we have made 25 miles and are stopping 
with a gentleman named Cromwell just across the Nishnabotana 
River.” 

Our host of last night at English Grove was a Mormon and intends 
going to Salt Lake as soon as he can, and the sooner the better if he 
toasts all travellers as he did us; tired as we were we could scarcely 
get to sleep because of the intense heat of a big fire in the room and 
the incessant chattering of a Magpie in the shape of a little peddlar. 
Our landlord was not well and could not himself see that the horses 
were properly attended; he expressed his great regret at this because 
said he, when I know that all is done right I feel like a soldier who 
has obeyed his superior—I am too good a soldier to let things be done 
wrong—lI was a soldier once—not in the wars but on the militia parade 
and then I took delight in doing every thing as it should be because it 
would please the officer and save him trouble. We bid the soldier 
[our host] good-bye before breakfast and rode about 8 miles when 
we got a very good breakfast in a very plain cabin. 

The road to-day has been over the rolling prairie as before, and it 
has been excellent, except early in the morning where there was mud 
because of rain last night. These prairie roads have been delightful 
ever since we left St. Joe except in bottom lands and between some 
of the hills; there is not much level road but it is generally smooth 
with some declivity and through timber as it approaches rivers or 
small streams. 

The view as we approached the ferry over the Nishnabotana was 
magnificent.? The river is one of the most crooked [tortuous] I ever 
saw. A slight shower this evening. 

Wednesday April 3d—Last night I could not make my usual en- 
tries because it was late when we stopped. The morning had been 
showery and therefore we had not left Cromwells, but about 12 O’clock 
Alex. determined to start although it still threatened to rain. How- 
ever it proved to be a good afternoon for travelling and we went 20 
miles. Just after leaving we met the Bluff stage coming down; * 
this is a new enterprise and marks the progress of civilization; a few 


route, and the fact that they have crossed both Little and Big Tarkio Creeks makes the 
presumption that they were now at Irish Grove (or Milton) a fairly safe one. (For this 
place, see History of Holt and Atchison Counties, pp. 723-726.) 

‘2 The Nishnabotana is the last considerable stream to enter the Missouri River in the 
State of Missouri. The travelers were now in Fremont County, Iowa, for in the entry 
of April 3d Culbertson says that a few miles before crossing this river they passed into 
that State. 

53For an account of the Nishnabotana and its valley consult Petersen (1941, pp. 
280-291). 

“JT. e., the Council Bluffs stage. 

890780—51——_3 


26 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BULL. 147 


years ago and there were scarcely any whites up here and now there 
is sufficient travelling to warrant a stage twice a week between the 


Bluffs and St. Joe. 
IOWA 


It is only a two horse stage [vehicle] and like the early stages in 
the East it don’t travel at night. The distance to the Bluffs from 
St. Joe is 150 miles. The place commonly called Council Bluffs is 
not the Council Bluffs marked on the maps but is considerably lower 
down the River, the original place being now deserted. The present 
Bluffs is opposite Bellevue where there is a Presbyterian missionary 
station, and it is called by different names—Point du Cou * in French, 
or louse point in English, or the Bluffs.*® A few miles before crossing 
the Nishnabotana we passed into the state of Iowa and will travel in 
that state until we cross the Big Sioux. This is the boundary claimed 
by the state and is much larger than the one proffered by Congress. It 
seems to be a good distance from home away out in the western part 
of Iowa and it feels like it too when we get into these little log cabins 
with their big fire places, big air holes and the old rifle over the door, 
or the mantel piece. 

Last night we had plenty of provender for man and beast, the former 
done up in plain style; Alexander and I had a bed on which we had 
a first rate sleep although I rather think that at home we would have 
staid up all night before lying in it. The roof of that part of the 
house in which we slept was of common bark which I am told makes 
a very good roof when put on with care. The wind blew very hard 
all night and this morning the whole sky was overcast with clouds big 
with rain. Alex. ordered the horses back but I told him that there 
was a man in the house very sick with the measles, chicken pox or some 
disease of that character and he soon determined not to stay longer. 
In about half an hour we packed up and started in a drizzling rain 
with a strong wind, and it grew worse as we advanced, so that at the 
end of 3 miles Alexander thought it best to stop. We have here found 
plenty of provender for the animals and good quarters for ourselves. 
But when I say good quarters I don’t mean a fine brick house, or a 
frame house but a log cabin that has a good roof—a big fire place 
and plenty of places for air holes. However it is a cold rain and 
would be very unpleasant travelling so that I feel as well contented 
as if I were in a much finer house. Our host and hostess are from 
Oswego Co., New York, near Lake Ontario; she tells me that there is a 
great deal of fever and ague here. And I should think there always 


55 He should have written pou, not cou. 

5¢It is confusing for Culbertson to speak of this place as ‘‘the present bluffs.” The 
whole region was then known as Council Bluffs or the Bluffs. He refers particularly to 
a settlement in Iowa opposite Bellevue and the missionary station. (For Louse Point 
see footnote 58 and for Council Bluffs, some miles to the north, see footnote 63.) 


McDERMOTT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 27 


will be; for the bottom all along here is from 6 to 8 miles wide and 
very level. 

I have forgotten to mention the very singular appearance of the 
Bluffs along which we came yesterday. There are three roads to the 
Bluffs, one called the bottom road along the river, the other runs along 
the foot of the Bluffs, and the third called the Bluff road, passes on 
the high grounds; we chose the middle one and found it very good 
except in several places where for quite a distance we travelled in 
water several inches deep but the horses did not cut through. I don’t 
see how these roads will ever be made good in wet weather, as there 
is no rock in the country to Macadamize them, nor is wood plenty 
enough to make plank road. 

As we passed from the Bluffs to the low lands they presented a very 
singular appearance, being very irregular in their shape, something 
like the irregular piles of dirt around on one bank or any great exca- 
vation. They are about an equal distance from the river here, 6 or 
8 miles, but not in a continuous line, being broken up into a great many 
hills some with a gradual slope and others with a perpendicular side. 
My brother says that they continue up to the Yellow Stone. Near 
the river there is timber. Alexander bought a fine horse for $100.00 
from a neighbor of Mr. Cromwell’s; he gave him to Jim to lead, but 
it was too much almost for him to ride and to lead and his horse threw 
him before we had gone far and ran for a mile or two before Alex. 
could catch him. I found great pleasure in reading several chapters 
in Revelations and think that I have clearer views than I ever before 
had of the nature and design of that book. 

Thursday April 4th—To-day has been a dull one; here we have been 
all day where we stopped yesterday morning, detained by a severe 
North West storm and no signs of quitting yet. This morning it was 
snowing, about noon there was no rain and signs of clearing off but in 
the afternoon it began to rain again and now [is] almost as bad as 
ever; the wind is not so hard and is still in the same direction, but I 
think there are signs of a change. There is nothing here to entertain 
us; the landlord is very reserved and scarcely speaks, but his wife and 
her mother are pleasant enough. We feel very much gratified that 
we are not in the crowded, dirty place where we spent Tuesday night. 

This morning I found an hour to pass away pleasantly in reading 
the Scriptures; every day in travelling as at Princeton I have been 
enabled to study these and I pray that it may continue to be so through- 
out my journey. There is but little chance for this at our stopping 
places but as we seldom go out of a walk in travelling, I read them and 
read with profit. I have just finished the most profitable reading of 
the Revelations I have ever made and to-day I began to read the 
Epistles in course beginning at Corinthians. 


28 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BULL 147 


Yesterday I wrote a joint letter to father and mother which we will 
mail at the Bluffs. It is a delightful occupation for me to think of 
my different friends from whom I am far away and to feel that they 
sometimes think of me. 

An old novel, called The Rose of Thistle Island, has afforded me 
entertainment to-day; the scene is laid in Sweden and the story has 
considerable of interest; it is written in the Swedish language by Miss 
Emilia Carlen and translated by some American gentleman.” 

Friday April 5th—This has been the worst day for travelling that 
we have tried but we were so tired of laying by that we started out on 
the first appearance of clearing off and we have come 20 miles as far 
as the Bluffs. The road has been the greater part of the way along 
the bottom and through the timber land of the Missouri and it has 
been as bad as I want to see. 

This place [Council Bluffs] is a miserable looking village and our 
hotel is a miserable dirty place but nevertheless I have just eaten a 
very hearty supper. Opposite this place is Bellevue the seat of a 
mission; ® I feel very anxious to pay a visit to it but I will not have 
time; as we came up the river I had a fine view of the mission house 
a large white building on the west bank of the river. 

Saturday April 6th—I forgot to mention yesterday that we had 
crossed in the morning Five Barrel Creek commonly called Keg 
Creek; and in the afternoon Mosquito creek within five miles of the 
Bluffs. 

Last evening Alexander and I crossed by the ferry to spend the 
night with Mr. Peter A. Sarpy,” a fur trader; we got there after dark 


Emilia Smith Flygars Carlen (1807-92), a prolific Swedish novelist, whose The Rose 
of Fistelén, published in 1842, was translated into English in 1844. A collected edition 
of her novels in 31 volumes was published at Stockholm, 1869-75. 

58'That is, Louse Point. (For the early history of this region consult Babbitt, 1916, 
pp. 69-239.) The present city of Council Bluffs was then called Kanesville (see note 63). 
The Culbertsons were at a settlement Kurz called “Iowa Point ... A forlorn place. 
None of the houses are built near the river, because the inhabitants so much dread losing 
their lives by the constant floods. As a result the town is already a mile from its original 
site ... Hardly a dozen houses are inhabited here; the people are, for the most part, 
Mormons” (Kurz, 1937, p. 60). Parker’s map (1856) gives Traders Point as the settle- 
ment opposite Bellevue. 

59 Bellevue, Sarpy County, Nebr., then an American Fur Company post. Kurz visited 
there in May 1851 (1937, pp. 60-69). For Bellevue, consult J. Q. Goss, 1898, pp. 36-47; 
Edward L. Sayre, 1911, pp. 66-114; Mrs. E. Anderson, 1919, pp. 72-77. For Sarpy 
County, consult S. D. Bangs, 1887, pp. 293-306. (See also footnote 62.) 

6 Five Barrel or Keg Creek entered the Missouri in the northwestern corner of Fremont 
County, Iowa, a little below the mouth of the Platte; Mosquito Creek, also from the Iowa 
side, about half way between the Platte and Bellevue. 

6 Pierre Abadie Sarpy (son of Gregoire Sarpy and Pelagie Labbadie) was born in Saint 
Louis in 1805. ‘The Bellevue house was established under his management in the 1830's. 
In May and June 1851, Sarpy was still occupying the post, for Kurz visited him (1937, 
pp. 60, 64). In 1855 he had a store at St. Mary’s, Iowa (nearly opposite the mouth of tne 
Platte), on the stage route between Council Bluffs and St. Joseph. He was then described 
as “about 55 years of age; rather below the medium height; black hair, dark complexion; 
well-knit and compact frame, and a heavy beard that had scorned a razor’s touch for 
many a year. His manner was commanding; his address fluent, and in the presence of 
the opposite sex polished and refined” (Bangs, 1887, pp. 299-300). (Consult also Allis, 
1887. vp. 162-163.) 


McDzRMorrt] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 29 


and it was too late to visit Mr. M’kinney © the Missionary, which was 
a great disappointment for I felt a very great desire to do so. Mr. 
Sarpy lives in fur trader style and we had it pretty rough. We found 
there 8 or 10 Indians of the Ottoe tribe and I was much struck by the 
powerful appearance of two of them. Three appeared to be chiefs; 
one was an old man and the other two middle aged; they must have 
been more than six feet tall, finely formed but with countenances not 
what one expects to see with such noble forms. I could not repress a 
feeling of pity at seeing such men esteeming it a privilege to get a 
seat on the floor in such a place, where the very stable boys felt as if 
they had a right to curse them for “lousy indians.” Of course the 
Indians did not know what was said. The poor fellows annoyed us 
very much in the night by coming into the place where we slept and 
taking up their quarters there too and then talking a great deal. I 
noticed that in talking they did not use our conversational key but 
they spoke on a musical scale having apparently a regular rise and 
fall in the voice, and they used many gestures. 

About 8 O’clock A. M. we left the Bluffs and found the road very 
level until we reached Kanesville * about 8 miles. 


KANESVILLE 


This is a Mormon town and was full of people when we passed 
through because of to-morrow being the day for the meeting of the 
Mormon conference. We met a great many on the road going to the 
same meeting. The town is on level ground and it was almost im- 
passible [sic] on account of the mud. After leaving it, we again 
entered on the Bluffs and passed over a constant succession of hills. 
During the whole ride I thought the term “Mountains in Miniature” 
is the most expressive one to describe these Bluffs. They have all 
the irregularity in shape, and in valleys that mountains have, but 
they have no rocks and rarely timber. Some of the views afforded 
by them are very beautiful; one very fine was presented to-day; as 


This was the Rev. Edward McKinney who built a mission house and Indian school a 
little below the Bellevue post in 1847-48; the mission (to the Oto and Omaha) was main- 
tained by the Board of Foreign Missions of the Presbyterian Church (Old School). The 
staff consisted of McKinney and his wife, David BE. Read (assistant), Henry Martin 
(steward) and his wife, and Martha Fullerton (teacher). (Consult Missionary Herald, 
vol. 47, 1851, pp. 205-206; Bangs, 1887, p. 294; Allis, 1887, p. 1383-166.) 

68’ Henry W. Miller, a Mormon, settled about 1846 a little west of the old Council Bluffs 
blockhouse, and the village that formed around him was called Miller’s Hollow. Upon 
petition by Brigham Young, a post office named Kane was established at Miller’s Hollow, 
January 17, 1847, and on April 8, 1848, at a meeting of the Mormons, the settlement was 
officially renamed Kanesville, in honor of Col. Thomas Leiper Kane who, though not a 
Mormon, had been friendly to them. (Kane, 1822-83, was a brother of the celebrated 
Arctic explorer Elisha Kane.) The population of Kanesville was said to have been 7,000 
in 1849, but after the departure of Orson Hyde it dropped to a little over 2,000. In 1853 
the name of the town was changed.to Council Bluffs. (Consult Babbitt, 1916, pp. 16-17; 
History of Pottawattamie County, Iowa, pp. 69-239.) 


30 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Buuu, 147 


we rose over the last Bluff I did not know it and thought to see the 
same succession of hills that we had before when judge of my surprise 
to behold a plain for miles in length before me. 


BOYER RIVER 


I had to stop and gaze upon the splendid sight and imagined how 
it would be improved by the rich carpet of grass which would soon 
clothe it. For the balance of the distance, we had principally the 
bottom lands; we crossed several streams the principal of which 
were the Little & Big pigeon creeks. About 5 O’clock we stopped 
with an old Mormon at the Boyer River. To-day we had the hardest 
dinner that we have yet had; great big buckwheat cakes formed the 
principal part. I begin to feel as though settlements were getting 
mighty scarce. 

Sunday April 7th—To-day we have been travelling again but I 
endeavored to fix my thoughts on subjects suitable to the day. They 
would occasionally wander to my different friends and ask whether 
they were employing their privileges as they should. It was pleasant 
for me to feel that a bond of sympathy could at the throne of grace 
and in religious meditation bind pious hearts together. May their 
prayers on my behalf be graciously answered by our common Father. 

To-day we passed Willow Creek, two forks of the Soldier River, and 
the main branch itself, and are now on the bank of the Little Sioux 
ready to cross it in the morning.” Had some Elk meat for dinner 
to-day and the men saw four antelopes. 


LITTLE SIOUX RIVER 


Last night we found exceedingly plain but very good quarters in 
the house of Mr. Chase. Both he and his wife are from Vermont 
and as soon as I learned that, I was sure of something good to eat and 
well cooked too, and sure enough when supper was ready it was first 
rate consisting of wild turkey and wild duck properly done up; we had 


* Boyer River, the most considerable stream of central western Iowa, enters the Missouri 
a few miles above Council Bluffs. The travelers were now somewhere near the line 
between Pottawattamie and Harrison Counties. The Nicollet map does not list the two 
Pigeon Creeks; it does label a stream entering the Missouri immediately below Boyer 
River as Gopher Creek. 

8 Willow Creek is a branch entering Boyer River from the west in the extreme north- 
western corner of Pottawattamie County. Soldier River enters the Missouri in Harrison 
County about halfway between the Boyer and the Little Sioux. The Little Sioux enters 
the Missouri in the northwestern corner of Harrison County. The Boyer, the Soldier, 
and the Little Sioux are all described in Petersen, 1941, pp. 270-279, 264-269, 252-263. 

° When he decided not to buy Vermilion Post in 1851, Larpenteur purchased a claim, 
about 85 miles down the Missouri, from Amos Chase, a Mormon, who had been an original 
settler at the Mormon settlement at the mouth of the Little Sioux. Chase died about 
1887. (Consult Larpenteur, 1898, vol. 2, pp. 296, 298-299, and footnotes 9; 105), The 
Culbertson were now at Little Sioux, Harrison County, Iowa. 


McDEEMOTT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL on 


for our seats several chests, and two chairs, one a large rocking chair 
but never did I relish a supper more. We slept soundly and arose 
early in the morning to enjoy a breakfast of wild fowl. Immediately 
after, we prepared to cross the Little Sioux River and as there was 
neither a bridge nor a ferry this was no slight job. Mr. Chase had a 
canoe and in that we took over every thing except the horses which 
had to swim for it. The carriage was taken apart and carried over 
in that way. This occupied us until about 12 o’clock and soon after, 
we started across a wide prairie. 

We had now left the settlements; for several days houses had been 
scarce and now we are to expect but one more many miles from this. 
We have therefore to-day been undisturbed in our travelling not hav- 
ing met a single person nor seen the signs of inhabitants since leaving 
the river this noon and yet I can scarcely realize it; here we are en- 
camped in the western wilds far from any house but I don’t feel any 
lonliness [sic], or any of those feelings which we expect to experience 
in these circumstances. Our road this afternoon has been as near a 
level as can be which has been favorable to making good travelling. 
Yesterday also we had a great deal of level road but just before coming 
to the river we had to cross the steepest bluff that I have yet seen. We 
ascended quite a steep bluff and I expected something of a declivity 
on the other side but judge of my fearful surprise to find that I had 
to turn the wagon at a right angle to prevent it from going down the 
other side and then in a few feet I had to start down a very long and 
steep ridge scarcely wide enough for two carriages to pass. This was 
rather a fearful undertaking for so unskilful a driver but summoning 
up all my courage I started and thanks to the good mules, we got down 
in safety. To-day again I was impressed with the resemblance of the 
bluffs to mountains; they are perfect mountains in miniature wanting 
the rocks and timber. 

I have noticed in all the streams the general characteristics of the 
Missouri; flowing through an alluvial soil the banks are steep, their 
water dark and they are very crooked; they also have very swift 
currents. To-day on the bottom I observed for the first time the 
remains of snails; their shells, injured by the weather, were very 
numerous. 

We saw several antelopes in full flight as we came along the prairie. 
I have forgotten to notice the addition to our dogs, of a fine grey- 
hound given by Mr. Peter Sarpy to Alexander; her name is Juno, but 
she is of much more amiable disposition than the honorable personage 
for whom she is named. 

Tuesday April 9th—To-day has been a day of lonesome travel 
through a long dreary prairie. We have made about 30 miles and 


32 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Buun. 147 


are again encamped in a couley ® [gully] well protected from a storm 
should one arise. When we left last night’s encampment it was a 
warm beautiful morning but before 8 O’clock the wind became exceed- 
ingly cold and dark clouds threatened a storm. About 1 O’clock we 
camped for dinner and rest, and I enjoyed our plain meal very much. 
We had no fresh spring water however and I can’t drink this pond 
water; to-night we are in the same fix so that tea must suffice me. 
Just before dinner we had the misfortune to lose our poor little dog 
Tip; he was most likely overcome with fatigue and at the sight of 
water was seized with a fit of madness; he commenced barking vio- 
lently, described two or three circles and then started off on the road 
we had just come and that’s the last we have seen of him to the great 
regret of allthe company. After dinner Alexander rode out in search 
of him but could see nothing of him. Just after stopping for the 
night, the horses frightened and we had a regular stampede, all took 
off full flight but were brought back with some trouble.® 


FLOYD’S GRAVE 


Wednesday April 10th—This day has not forwarded us far on our 
journey although it has been a day of labors. We have made only 
about 10 miles; we had breakfast and were off from our camping 
ground by about 514 O’clock; after coming 6 or 8 miles we reached 
the Missouri and here found the house of a man named Thompson, a 
Whiskey trader with the Indians. There was two men, and they 
appeared to be brothers; here they lived alone in a mean dirty cabin 
alone to make money by selling whiskey. One of them told me that 
a very good house which he was putting up was just for the purpose 
of selling whiskey and that his present house was too small. Al- 
though we had breakfasted we asked them to prepare some food for 
us and they soon did it, giving us coffee, warm bread and venison; 
although I was witness to the filth with which it was prepared I ate 
very heartily; the venison was good and I felt confirmed in the 


87 Culbertson spells this word cooley, cooly, couley, but never uses the correct form: 
coulée. 

®3In the second paragraph of the entry for April 12, he gives a further description of 
this prairie. 

“The title of the Indians ... became vacant in 1847, and in the summer of 1848 

. a Single pioneer, named William Thompson, settled at Floyd’s Bluff—the first white 

man who became a permanent settler of the country. In the autumn of the same year his 
brother Charles and another man followed and spent the winter there, being at that time 
the only white men in the county [Woodbury]. Anticipating an immense immigration, he 
laid out a town here and named it in honor of himself—Thompsontown ... To give it 
an air of business, and aid in its development, he erected here his cabin, and, on the 
organization of the county in 18538, this was made the county seat. It was a sort of post 
for Indian traders for some years, but the city lots were too steep for cultivating, or for 
building, and, unfortunately, there was no place for a landing on the bank of the river, 
and the stakes are all that now remain to mark the progress of the town” (History of 
Western Iowa, 1882, pp. 176-177). 


McDmRMorT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 33 


opinion that venison ought never to be boiled. Thompson’s house is 
just at the foot of Floyd’s Bluff, so called from being the burial place 
of a man named Floyd, a Sargeant and member of Lewis and Clark’s 
company. I went to the top and found there a part of the stake that 
marks the grave and the hollow indicating where the grave is; it com- 
mands a fine extensive view and appears to be a fit place for the repose 
of a member of so bold a company.” 


CROSSING OF WILLOW RIVER 


Immediately after breakfast we started for the Willow River, 
marked Floyd’s on the maps (the second one of that name) ; ™ there was 
only a canoe to get us over and that was on the other side. How to get 
it was the question and as that must be by swimming or by raft it was 
determined in favor of the former as being the more speedy. But here 
another trouble arose and that was, who was to beswimmer? Being a 
cold morning it required some nerve to jump into a deep and swift river. 
Nasselle however was preparing for it, when four Sioux squaws ap- 
peared on the opposite bank; it appeared to be very fortunate and 
Alexander called to them in their own language to bring the canoe 
over. They came to the water’s edge and one got in, but before the 
others could follow her the rope broke and the current bore the canoe 
downstream and then there was as much laughing and sport at the 
accident as there would have been amongst as many civilized women; 
their voices and their actions recalled strongly to mind the ways of my 
fair friends at home and this was still strengthened by their liveliness 
and pleasantry. Their voices were certainly very agreeable and had 
the softness that we usually ascribe to the female sex. They could not 
however boast of much beauty; their complexion was bordering on 
ashy paleness. 

As we had the canoe we soon carried our baggage across—took the 
carriage apart and ferried it over and then put the horses in. Nearly 
everyone gave trouble and it would have afforded a horde of school 
boys infinite amusement but to us it was a serious trouble; however 
patience and perseverance will do a great deal and at length with some 
aid from themselves all the horses were safely across and we prepared 
for a fresh start. 

HOG WEED CREEK 


We had now but five miles to go to our stopping place; this would 
have been nothing had it not been for a little creek that intervened, 


7 For a description (and sketch) of Floyd’s Bluff see Catlin, 1848, vol. 1, pp. 4-5, pls. 
117, 118. The death of Charles Floyd is recorded in Coues, 1893, vol. 1, pp. 79-80. 

71 Floyd’s River entered the Missouri a mile or two above Floyd’s Bluff; it is now of 
course in the heart of Sioux City. What river lower down was also named Floyd’s on 
Culbertson’s map I do not know. (For an account of Floyd’s River see Petersen, 1941, 
pp. 245-251.) 


34 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BuLL. 147 


called Hog-weed Creek; at usual stages this has scarcely any water 
in it but now being high it is probably four or five feet wide; this 
appears a trifle especially as the water is not more than three feet 
deep but then the banks are nearly perpendicular and are 15 or 20 
feet high, or rather low for the water is that far below the surface 
of the plain above. Here we have to unpack and unload the carriage 
again, and to let it down by ropes; we then used it as a bridge and 
passed most of the goods by it, and then fastened a long rope to the 
tongue, hitched the mules to the rope and soon were ready for a fresh 


start. 
BIG SIOUX RIVER—BRUYIERE’S 


An hour’s ride brought us to the Big Sioux River” and here we 
stop for the night with a Mr. Bruyiere “ and will cross the river in 
the morning. This will be no trifling job as the river is high and 
wide. Bruyiere lives here with the Sioux, very much as an Indian; 
he has two wives who are very nice looking women indeed; they 
prepared for us a most excellent dinner of good wheat bread, Elk 
meat, potatoes and coffee. This man had a fight with some Indians 
lately in which he wounded three of them, and yet he apears to be 
a quiet, modest, honest man.” I have to-day for the first time heard 
the Sioux language and I think that it sounds very sweetly to the ear. 
I took a walk to some very high bluffs near this and enjoyed a most 
magnificent and extensive [extended] view of the Missouri and its 


72 The only stream shown on the Parker map between Floyd’s River and the Big Sioux is 
labeled Perry Creek. 

73 The Big Sioux was the largest stream they had yet had to cross; the actual crossing 
is described in the entry for the 12th. They were still within the limits of the present 
Sioux City. (For an account of the Big Sioux, consult Petersen, 1941, pp. 229-244.) 

™ According to C. R. Marks (1908), Theophile Bruguier was born in Montreal, August 
31, 1818, and died at Sioux City, February 18, 1895. For a long time he was employed at 
Vermilion Post. He settled at the mouth of the Big Sioux in 1849, and in 1854 Sioux 
City was laid out on land Joseph Lionnais bought from Bruguier. Marks located him 
above the mouth of the Big Sioux; but Culbertson’s account corrects that statement. 
Kurz, in 1851-52, knew a Bruyiere who was an independent (7?) trader in the Fort Union 
region (Kurz, 1937, pp. 213, 240, 274, 293, 310, 311). Coues located the Vermilion Post, 
at which Bruguier served in the 1830’s, about 25 miles above the Vermilion Post men- 
tioned by Audubon (in Larpenteur, 1897, vol. 2, p. 287, footnote). (See also footnote 81 
below.) 

7 One of these wives was a daughter of War Eagle, chief of the Yankton Sioux, who died 
at Bruguier’s house in 1851 (History of Western Iowa, pp. 177-178). Marks said that 
Bruguier married three daughters of War Eagle (1908, p. 264). 

76 “After Bruguier resided there [at the Big Sioux] he had some trouble with his Indian 
neighbors. He had probably, after settling down, become less watchful of danger and 
in this trouble he was shot through the lungs by an Indian but he instantly killed his 
assailant and then walked quickly to his house. Near it he fell. He was lifted by his 
squaw wife and laid across the doorway in accordance with some Indian custom or etiquette 
and his household raised the death song . . . Bruguier soon revived from his swoon and 
demanded of her to stop howling and asserted with many oaths that he wasn’t dead yet 
and no Indian could ever kill him ...’”’ (Marks, 1908, pp. 267-268). 


MCDERMOTT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 35 


extensive [grand] prairies. We have just crossed one 50 miles in 
length. To-morrow morning we leave Iowa. 


CROSSING BIG SIOUX 


Friday April 12th—Yesterday early in the morning the men began 
the work of crossing the Big Sioux River and although they had the 
aid of Bruyiere and his two men, they did not get through until about 
2 O'clock. The river at this point is generally very shallow because 
the Missouri backs it so much that all the mud is dropped here, but 
now the river is very high and swift so that it was very troublesome 
to swim the horses. But at length every thing was crossed safely 
and we went to enjoy again the good cookery of Bruyiere’s Squaws; 
they gave us for dinner a kind of fritter, called “bangs,” ” honey 
and coffee. About 3 O’clock we were all over the river and off so as 
to get out of the timber about 4 miles. The road was very bad as I 
have found it in all the wood lands through which I have passed; at 
length we reached the edge of the woods and made our camp for the 
night on the banks of the Sioux.”* The wind was blowing very hard 
and right from the north, so that it was not at all pleasant. Our meat 
had all given out and we had forgotten to get any, so that our supper 
consisted of a wild goose which Nersalle had shot in the morning. 
Our party was increased by Bruyiere and his man who were bringing 
129 robes to Vermillion, which Alexander had bought from him. We 
had a good deal of talk around the fire; Bruyiere told me that rattle- 
snakes are very numerous in the prairies but that a weed called black 
weed is a sure and speedy cure for the bite.”? Nersalle told an adven- 
ture of his as he came down which illustrates the great danger of 
travelling in the prairies at certain seasons of the year. As he was 
sleeping in the open prairie one night, the fire overtook him before 
he was aware of its approach; there was no chance for escape but 
by a cooley which was near and into it he rushed in time to save his 
life; the fire came sweeping on with terrific rapidity, but passed over 
the cooley only scorching his coat; one of his horses however was 
so badly burnt that he died in a few days. 

The prairies along the Missouri are many miles long and 10 or 15 
wide; we passed over one about 50 miles wide between the Big Sioux 
and Little Sioux and had no running water; we used the pond and 


™ Beigne—a fried cake, very popular on the western frontier (McDermott, 1941, p. 22). 

7 If Culbertson has not made an error in writing Siow# here, they must have gone north 
on the west bank of that river for some distance before turning west for Vermilion Post. 
Parker’s map shows a road crossing the Sioux near its mouth and then headed north- 
west, roughly paralleling and at no great distance from the Missouri. 

7 This was probably the “racine noir’ of the French (McDermott, 1941, p. 132). 


36 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Buut. 147 


lake water. I have noticed several lakes within the last two days 
all of a peculiar shape—that of a half moon and having wood on 
the inner side.® I am told that all these lakes on the prairies are filled 
with fish which are left there from the high waters of the Missouri. 

Last night we encamped just on the edge of the woods; during the 
night the wind increased to a powerful gale and roared with tremen- 
dous violence; the men were very cold as they had no protection from 
it but we were quite comfortable in our carriage, our only fear being 
that a tree might blow on us. We were up bright and early and 
as soon as we had breakfasted were off for the Vermilion." The 
wind had not decreased in violence and our road lay right along the 
level prairie; it was intensely cold and the wind almost stopped the 
horses sometimes. Alexander and I got in the buggy and by aid of the 
diligent use of the lash we reached the trading house about 12 O’clock; 
it was about 25 miles from where we had crossed. We were soon 
enjoying the fire in Schlagel’s house and were comforted by some 
dinner. The men came about 2 O’clock.* 


VERMILION POST 


Heretofore we have been travelling within the States although out 
of the settlements, but as soon as we had crossed the Big Sioux we 
were on Indian ground. A part of the Sontee * Indians stay about 
here; the main body of the tribe live on the Mississippi and St. Peter’s 
Rivers; about 60 lodges being here. About 25 lodges of the Yank- 
tons * stay about here. But there are none at this post just now as 


80 The lakes so strange to Culbertson were the ox-bow lakes common to the whole stretch 
of the Missouri River, as to other similar meandering streams. Parker’s map names sev- 
eral of those he passed in Iowa: Soldier Lake, Silver Lake, Crooked Lake; Blue Lake 
and Brown Lake are names given two of them today. 

81The post, not the river. When Audubon visited the Vermilion Post, May 16, 1843, 
Pascal Cerré was in charge (Audubon and Coues, 1897, vol. 1, pp. 493-495). In February 
1850, Larpenteur arranged with the Company to take charge of Vermilion on condition 
that he could purchase it at a stipulated price; he went there in the summer of 1850 and 
remained one year but decided the post would not suit him and on May 15, 1851, he left 
it (Larpenteur, vol. 2, pp. 286-292). In a long note (p. 287) Coues discussed the possible 
location of Vermilion Post and decided that that of the 1830’s with which Bruguier was 
connected was some 25 miles above the later post. Culbertson’s narrative shows the 
location of Larpenteur’s Vermilion Post, concerning which Coues expressed some doubt. 

8 When Kurz headed up the river on the St. Ange a year later (as Picotte’s clerk) 
he noted on June 25 that “Fort Vermilion is abandoned. Schlegel, the bourgeois, came 
with bag and baggage on board our steamer, to proceed 60 miles farther up the river 
and establish a new post... [June 26]. The Prussian Schlegel drank all my French 
brandy on the sly, as preventive for cholera. . . . Schlegel and his native mistress were 
put ashore with all their goods and chattels at the Isle de Bonhomme, where he intends 
to establish a new trading post in the land of the Sioux” (Kurz, 1937, p. 70). Kurz 
stopped there coming down river, May 8, 1852 (ibid., p. 333). 

8 According to Hodge, “the name Santee was applied by the Missouri River Dacota to all 
those of the group living on Mississippi and lower Minnesota rs.” (Hodge, 1910, p. 460.) 

& The Yankton, one of the seven primary divisions of the Dakotas, were at this time 
located chiefly on the Vermilion River (Hodge, 1910, pp. 988-989). See Culbertson’s 
“Tabular View” in Appendix 1 below (pp. 182-187). Palliser, who had a poor opinion of 
the post itself, was much interested in a Sioux encampment there (1858, pp. 95-99). 


McDERMorT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 37 


they are out after Buffalo and therefore provisions are scarce; we had 
some fresh Buffalo tongue yesterday, however, which tasted very nice 
and tender. We met on the prairie three Indians going to Bruyieres, 
ladened with Buffalo meat. 

The Missouri here is full of snags; indeed it is so at almost every 
point where I have had a chance to look at it; the higher we go up, 
the worse it appears to get, but the danger from these is of course 
decreased by the high water; every few miles places can be seen where 
the river has changed its channel, sometimes in one year moving off 
a mile or two from a place where a good channel had been; it is 
said that at Old Council Bluffs the river flows three miles from 
where it did when the Fort was first built. All along its course they 
calculate for these changes and don’t put substantial buildings where 
there is danger of the bank moving away. The danger of boating 
here is also increased by what are called Rapicages (I spell as they 
pronounce) which are fearfully rapid flows of the water as it rises 
over sand bars and moving them off. The water rushes over [the 
bar], roars like a cataract and runs [in] high waves so that if a small 
boat be struck, it is swallowed up at once. When the bar has been 
swept away and the full rise has been attained these [Rapicages] 
subside. 

Alexander determined to remain two days at this post (Vermilion) 
so that we have had rest to-day and shall have also tomorrow. We 
all needed it, or at least I am sure that I did, for although my health 
and strength have increased wonderfully since leaving home I feel 
as though some rest would be very agreeable. And so it has been, 
but still Monday morning will find me ready for a fresh start. Alex- 
ander has just been joking me about my increase of flesh and says 
that my shoulders are three inches broader than they were; certainly 
I am much stronger and have endured more fatigue than I could have 
for years back; I bear the cold, the wind, the fatigue of riding, or 
walking and then am ready for my meals and enjoy them plain as 
they may be and not excessively clean, and then I sleep soundly and 
tise refreshed. 

Sleeping in the camp does not appear to affect me; our bed is very 
good and we are very warm in the wagon and sleep as comfortable 
as in most of the houses in this western country; even during the ter- 
rible and very cold wind of Thursday night we were very warm 
although the wind seemed as if it would move the wagon sometimes, 
and it blew in also where the curtains met, but this did no harm. To- 
day has been one of preparation for the remainder of the trip about 
300 miles; my gun has been cleaned and with it I frightened two birds 
so badly that they flew from the bushes on which they were sitting. 
Alexander skinned a canvass back duck killed by one of the men. 


38 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Bute, 147 


The Missouri rose very rapidly this evening. Bruyiere promised to 
collect some sculls for me. 

Sunday April 14th—Rested all day. 

This has been one of the few sabbaths that have been days of rest 
to me since leaving home and although I have been far from any 
christian communion it has been a pleasant thing for me even to re- 
main quiet. My little Testament has been my only religious consellor 
and I could have had no better; it has always been my opinion that 
christians are too ready to study very closely the biographies of emi- 
nently pious men and to imitate perhaps their faults, or at least their 
eccentricities while they neglect to study the eminently pious spirit 
of the sacred writers. The Bible is to me the book most prolific in 
examples of christian spirit and of christian practice and today as 
I read some of the Epistles of Paul I could not but think how all 
christians would be profited if they would study more than they do 
his personal character—if they would overlook for a time his doctrinal 
writings and search for the spirit with which these doctrines are urged. 
Such a study of Paul’s writings would bring us all to a more practical 
and personal apprehension of Christ and would lead to a cultivation 
of that spirit of christian sympathy and compassion for the souls of 
men that are such conspicuous characteristics of Paul. I love to read 
the lives of eminent christians. I love to have my sluggish soul fired 
by their burning zeal—I love to regard Edwards,” and Nevins” and 
M’Cheyne™ as my examples in preaching the gospel but still I feel 
that if I drink not often at the fountain of spiritual life my draughts 
from the stream will be of little value. It has been agreeable to have 
my thoughts wander off today to my friends who are many—many 
hundreds of miles from me. The pleasant days of my Clifton life 
have been renewed; in imagination I have seen the different ones there 
in their usual employments and have hoped the dear Mrs. H. is out 
of her sick room. 

Why is it that I love to think of that family? It must be prin- 
cipally because of the christian kindness I there received and of the 
christian progress I there made and because the two most useful 
years of my life were spent there. The influence then exerted by me, 
I was enabled by the grace of God to feel to be very important and 
I strove to make it useful to my pupils; it was a constant thought 

* Possibly Jonathan Edwards; or Bela Bates Edwards, 1802-52, noted clergyman and 
educator of Massachusetts (DAB, vol. 6, p. 27). 

86 Possibly Alfred Nevin, 1816-90, of Shippensburg, Pa., a Presbyterian clergyman, editor, 
and author; licensed to preach at Carlisle, 1840; served the German Lutheran Church 
(sic) at Chambersburg, 1845-52. Or: Edwin Henry Nevin, 1814-89, clergyman, educator, 
and author, brother of Alfred Nevin; graduate of Princeton Theological Seminary, 1836. 
(Consult DAB, vol. 13, pp. 438-440.) 


8? Robert Murray M’Cheyne, Scottish clergyman and author, 1813-43 (DNB, vol. 35, p. 3). 
(See also footnote 140.) 


McDzeMorT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 39 


that they would meet me before God’s judgment bar and would be 
witnesses for or against me and therefore it was my endeavor to act 
in view of that account but I well knew that many a time my conduct 
was not what it should have been. I received great pleasure from 
an affectionate letter written to me by my esteemed pupil Freddy 
Hobson and received at St. Louis; he spoke in encouraging terms of 
his own spiritual state and then stated that Charles Woodson ™ had 
lately made a profession of religion; my heart was indeed rejoiced 
at this for I had long hoped for his conversion as well as that of each 
of my other pupils and I earnestly pray that my letter to him may 
be blessed to the strengthening of his faith. 

I thought of home—of my aged parents and of my little effort to 
make them happy in their old days and prayed for the salvation of 
their own souls and of the souls of each of their household. It is good 
indeed to feel that you are remembered by distant friends and this 
pleasure I always enjoy; I feel sure that to-day not only those of my 
own household have thoughts of me and my kind brother but also 
that my dear young Princeton friends have had a thought of their 
distant friend and classmate. We are not grateful as we should be 
for this christian and family sympathy; we should ascribe it to its 
true source—the influence of the gospel and we should make an espe- 
cial thanksgiving to God for it. 

Alexander and I frequently speak of Simpson; *® we cannot but 
feel a regret that he is so situated as to preclude almost all expec- 
tation of ever seeing him again; how pleasant, we say, would it be 
to meet him and his family at home, or even to anticipate such a meet- 
ing but as he is now situated we can’t hope for that. For my own part 
I would love to have his christian counsel and sympathy in my 
studies and future labors, should God spare my life—I have during 
my whole course longed for this and yet I feel that he is right in 
doing as he has done. My own heart don’t lead me to do as he has 
done but I understand something of the noble character of the mis- 
sionary work and I can sympathize somewhat with the spirit that 
prompts others to labor in it—May God bless him and his in their 
self-denying labors. 

88 Freddy Hobson and Charles Woodson apparently had been pupils of Culbertson during 
his short period of teaching at Clifton. 

89 Michael Simpson Culbertson (Jan. 18, 1819—August 25, 1862) was the oldest child of 
Joseph Culbertson by his second wife, Frances Stuart—a half-brother therefore of Alexander 
and a full brother of Thaddeus. Michael Simpson entered West Point July 1, 1835, was 
commissioned second lieutenant in the First Artillery, July 1, 1839. After service on the 
northeastern frontier and as assistant professor of mathematics at West Point, he resigned 
from the Army April 15, 1841, to enter the Princeton Theological Seminary. He was gradu- 
ated in 1844, married Mary Duncan on May 16 of that year and went out immediately to 
China as a missionary, where he published a translation of the Bible into Chinese (1855), 


and died of cholera. (See Culbertson, 1893), pp. 163-165, 169, 184-185; Cullum, 1868, 
vol. 1, p. 575.) 


40 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BULL. 147 
HIGH WATERS 


Monday April 15—To-night I feel too tired to do much writing: 
this has been a day of labor without much head way; Alexander had 
despatched two men with an ox-team to take [procure] a canoe to 
aid us in crossing the Vermillion River and early this morning we 
started expecting to overtake them and to get over to-day. But un- 
certainty always attends human affairs and this has been our experi- 
ence; before reaching the bluffs about an hour after we had left the 
house we came on to the water which had filled the low part of the 
prairie from the high stage of the Missouri; here we were completely 
at a stand for a time, for this water passes down the prairie into the 
Big Sioux so that there was no possibility of going around it, and there 
might be 10 feet of water in some parts; however after a reconnoitre 
we ascertained that the water did not extend to the Bluffs and was 
not more than 4 feet deep in the deepest part; so we all started across 
and rode about one mile in the water. It was very cold on the feet 
as the horses splashed the water on us at every step. 

The mule which Alexander had got from Mr. Schlagel to draw a 
cart with corn, would not cross, so that he had to send back his mules 
to bring the cart, and when they came over he let them remain in the 
cart and put two horses in the buggy, and fortunately they proved to 
be very good for harness. We then moved on and soon reached the 
mouth of the Vermilion * but there was no crossing then because of 
the extreme high water; the men had gone up the river with the boat 
and we followed their track; it soon turned from the bottom to the 
bluff; here was a very steep hill but the men took hold of the buggy 
and helped them up with it; on the top of this bluff was an immense 
tract of table land the most level that I had seen. Here we soon lost 
the track and had the pleasure of describing a great circle and find- 
ing ourselves at the starting point in a short time. 

Then there was a look for the track of the ox team and at length 
Nassel found it and we followed it; we kept on for a long time and 
finally turned down to the banks of the river and made our camp much 
to the comfort of man and beast. My supper of meat, bread and 
coffee eaten in camp style, was relished mighty well and here I am 
writing this by way of dessert in the buggy, sitting tailor fashion 
on our bed. The wind is very high and cold and yet I calculate on a 
good sleep to-night. All the bottom here is full and water and as 
Alexander says [truly] “you can’t see the river for water.” How we 
shall get over, time only will show. The bluffs opposite the Vermilion 
post had some large stones and gravel on them. 


% Coues estimated the distance between the Post and the river to be about 10 miles. (See 
footnote 81 above.) 


McDzeMorT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 41 


Tuesday April 16th—We are at length across this Vermilion River ; 
it is no wider than the Canococheague creek in Chambersburg but it 
has given us considerable trouble in getting over it. We have trav- 
elled about 20 miles to-day and have gotten above where the banks are 
overflowed so that by the aid of the canoe brought from the Vermilion 
Trading House we easily got over; to-morrow however we shall have 
to swim the horses which will take a few hours. Our route to-day 
lay over widely extended and very level prairies without wood and 
with but little water. Almost as far as the eye could reach there 
was nothing to be seen but wide spread level land covered with the 
dried grass of last season. Did I experience that elevation of mind 
so often ascribed to the beholding of these grand prairies? No, I did 
not, for it is one thing to be thrown in ecstacies by the description of 
these magnificent peculiarities of this western country, as one is 
seated by a warm fire surrounded by all the comforts of home and it 
is another to travel over them when they are covered by dry grass only, 
with a regular North Easter blowing in your face and the thermometer 
below the freezing point. And yet I have been filled with feelings of 
delight as my eyes have rested upon some of the views of this prairie 
land; my thoughts have been raised by them to their great Creator; 
these wide-spread fields untouched by the artistical skill of man have 
led me to think of him from whose hands they came as they are now, 
and I have felt that when clothed with their rich carpet of green that 
they must be all that the most romantic have pictured them. 


PRAIRIE FIRE 


We saw before us to-day for a long time the smoke of burning prai- 
ries; at length we came in sight of the flame which must have been miles 
in length and in a short time our road lay right through it. What is 
now to be done, thinks I; my doubts were soon solved for Nasselle 
tramping it out with his foot for a few feet we all passed through. 
Why how is this; some may say, we thought it a fearful thing to meet 
fire in the prairies? and so it is when the wind blows with the fire, but 
to-day the wind was against it and therefore the fire made but slow 
progress. About 1 O’clock we reached the river and found here two 
lodges of Indians. We had our meal prepared in one of them by our 
man, and Alexander and I ate there, which was my first meal in an 
Indian lodge. It is now very cold, and threatens snow. Gravel and 
large red and blue stones still seen on the bluffs. 

Thursday April 18th—My inkstand has served mea scurvy trick and 
spilled all my ink so that henceforth I must write with pencil. Yes- 
terday was the dullest day I have yet had; it snowed and we could not 
travel; our quarters were a small Indian lodge crowded with children 
and dogs and the small intervening spaces well filled with smoke. I 

890780—b1——4 


42 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Bunt 147 


joined a black man named John from the Vermilion post, in hunting 
ducks; our success was but poor but I gained an appetite for dinner. 
In the afternoon it became a little warmer and Alexander fortunately 
determined to cross over the horses. The Indians also moved and on 
putting up their lodge again they stretched it to its full capacity, so 
that we were more comfortable. 

The master of the lodge had brought in six fine large ducks and we 
had several of them cooked for supper; plain as the style was I thought 
them delicious and ate very heartily of them. During the night the 
wind blew most violently and it became intensely cold. I thought it 
was also raining but was mistaken. The men made for their sleeping 
apartments, little houses of twigs covered with a part of their blankets 
and there had very comfortable protection from the storm. I was 
disturbed by the noise of the wind and the cold, but notwithstanding 
this I had a delightful dream of being at home on a most beautiful 
day and enjoying the society of most kind friends. What a contrast 
between the dream and the reality. 

In the morning we found it clear, very cold and a violent North 
wind blowing but we determined to start and soon Indians and all 
were on the way. I thought we would have afforded an admirable 
scene [subject] for a picture illustrating travel on the prairies; in 
moving off we got considerable. . . .,° and with the strange appear- 
ance of the Indians, their pack horses and their pack dogs, their 
squalling babes on the backs of their mothers and our own rather 
outlandish appearance, there was a fine scene; just as we ascended 
the hill and reached the plain I thought the appearance the most 
picturesque. We have not made more than 20 miles to-day and our 
way has been over dreary plains for many miles almost perfectly 
level and destitute of wood and water; occasionally however at 
intervals we would come on a small stream with a little wood. 


WHITE EARTH FORK 


We are now encamped on the White Earth Fork of the Vermilion.* 
We had not made the camp before the Indians discovered traces of 
a Buffalo and were after it; soon they came back saying it was killed; 
it was a cow and had become mired so that they killed it with the 
knife. This is the first one that we have seen and it is unusual to see 
them down this low on the Missouri. I have taken two specimens of 


®1 The blank is in the original manuscript. 

®@The narrative is not clear, but apparently the Culbertsons traveled north, along the 
east bank of the Vermilion, for 20 miles before they were able to cross. They then continued 
(west?) entil they struck the White Earth Fork. The Vermilion was also known on early 
maps as the White Stone or White Earth River. T. A. Culbertson’s White Earth Fork of 
Vermilion was probably that western (right) branch of the Vermilion which enters the 
main stream just above the town of Vermilion, S. Dak. 


McDmrMorrT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 43 


stone from this little valley ; one, something like marl in its configu- 
ration, is from a small mass of rock rising right out of the hill side 
for a few feet; the soil around it being the usual black loam. The 
other is a specimen of the rock from which I suppose this is called 
White Earth Fork; it is from a perpendicular bluff about 50 feet 
high on the fork and the whole of it appears to be of the same soft 
white stone as the specimen; it was broken with my fingers from the 
mass of the rock. The bluff fronts nearly due east I think. The 
hills on this valley and all along to-day have constantly exhibited 
gravel and large red and blue stones which appear to have been de- 
posited there from water. Timber is very scarce on the Vermilion 
River. 

Friday April 19th—We were off this morning about 6 O'clock; the 
weather was still unsettled but we were anxious to reach the River 4 
Jacques and to cross it, for then our trouble in crossing rivers will be 
nearly over. The road to-day was over prairie more undulating than 
that of yesterday. Wehad gone but a short distance before our Indian 
guide pointed out some Buffalo but I could only discern something 
black away in the distance; soon after he showed some more and in a 
short time we could discern several bands in different directions. 
About 10 O’clock we crossed a small stream called Black Earth River, 
a fork of the Vermilion. It detained us a short time: the squaws 
waded over or made a small bridge and then had to pull the packs of 
their animals across, one old woman probably 80 years old had a big 
dog for her pack horse; he generally worked very well and kept up 
with the horses easily but as we started this morning there was a steep 
and high hill just at first; up this he appeared unwilling to go and 
could only be persuaded so to do by the administration of sundry blows 
well put on. 


®% What stream Culbertson meant by the Black Earth River cannot be determined, nor 
can the position of the party at this time. Warren in 1855 traveled from Fort Pierre 
to Sioux City high up on the prairie; to his summary of distances he added information 
about another road which more nearly approximates the route of the Culbertsons: ‘As 
this route has very little wood, it is not safe in very cold weather, and as at such times 
we may calculate on crossing the Vermilion and James rivers, near their mouths, on 
the ice, the route near the Missouri should be taken. The following distances, &c., along 
it were given me by Mr. Henry Goulet: From The Big Sioux ferry go direct to near the 
mouth of the Vermilion, where the point of the bluffs end; 14 miles from the Big Sioux 
is a lake, with large willows for fuel; 4 miles further, plenty of wood at a spring; thence 
to Vermilion 16 miles; take now the ridge of the high prairie straight to where James 
river comes out from the bluffs, in 16 miles you reach White Clay creek; water in a 
spring, and wood plenty; thence to James river, 17 miles; from this river to the forks 
of Manuel creek is 25 miles, and here you are 12 miles from the Missouri, not far from 
l’Eau qui Court river; at the forks plenty of wood. The next camp will be on Andy’s 
lake, 27 miles; here wood is plenty ; from this lake to Yagalinyaka Creek, 14 miles, wood 
plenty ; thence to Pratt’s creek, 20 miles; thence to Bijou hills, 17 miles; thence to Crow 
creek, 25 miles. If this route should be taken in the spring and summer, the Vermilion 
and James rivers must be crossed by a ferry’? (Warren, 1856, p. 34). From Crow Creek 
to Fort Pierre the lower road was apparently the same as Warren’s own route. 


44 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BULL 147 


RIVER A JACQUES 


After crossing the creek the two Indian men went after the Buffalo 
which were quite near; we came on and reached the river 4 Jacques “ 
about 12 O’clock. I was glad to go into camp for I felt much fatigued ; 
we have for many days had very high winds and for two days we have 
been travelling through snow a few inches deep; this is not much but 
hardly to be expected in April and makes the walking fatiguing. To 
get to the river however is not to get over it; for the river is far beyond 
its banks, caused principally by the back water of the Missouri from 
which we are about 10 miles distant. We shall have to go some dis- 
tance up the river before we shall be able to cross. Soon after camping 
a buffalo appeared on the bottom above us; Nasselle started after him 
but his gun missed fire and so we missed the game. Dinner was 
scarcely ended before Nasselle discovered another below us and he, 
Alexander, and I, went after him; we found him in a cooley about 14 
of a mile off and soon despatched him but as he was exceedingly poor in 
flesh we took nothing but the tongue. When we returned to the camp 
we found the Indian hunters back; they had killed two cows and their 
calves, which perhaps had not seen the light. 

All afternoon the Indians have been eating; I have taken some in 
each man’s lodge but as I had eaten very heartily at dinner I was not 
prepared for feasting much after it. As I was resting in the wagon 
Alexander called me to come in and eat some of the calf; I went and ate 
it although not with much relish, but it was not as disgusting as per- 
sons might suppose and if my dinner had been a few hours earlier I 
think this very young veal would have tasted well. I took some of the 
buyon [sic for bouillon!] that is, the water in which the meat was 
boiled and found it very sweet and quite drinkable. Scarcely any part 
of the buffalo can be mentioned which is not eaten; the calves in the 
womb are taken and cooked in the liquor in which they are and are 
esteemed a great dish by the Indians; they eat the liver and the mani- 
fold raw as it comes from the animal and almost every other part. 

It is still very cold and cloudy, threatening a storm; for many days 
past the thermometer has been below the freezing point and we have 
had weather suitable for January. The fresh air however has done 
me great service and I don’t feel at all the worse for the exposure and 
fatigue. 


*% The Jacques, James, Yankton, or Dakota River. Audubon (1843) wrote that the 
Riviére & Jacques was “named after a man who some twenty or more years ago settled 
upon its banks, and made some money by collecting Beavers, etc., but who is dead and 
gone’ (Audubon and Coues, 1897, vol. 1, p. 501). Audubon, however, was incorrect, for 
the river was called Jacques at least as early as the 1790’s. A few lines later in this 
paragraph Culbertson informs us that they reached the Jacques about 10 miles above its 
mouth. From the entry for April 20 it will be seen that the party went 15 miles upstream 
before they could cross ; it was not until the morning of the 25th, however, that Culbertson 
could write with satisfaction that they were safely over the Jacques. 


McDERMOTT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 45 


Saturday April 20—Just one month from St. Louis; what a con- 
trast between that day and this? We have travelled about 15 miles 
to-day over prairie land near the river and have at length reached a 
place where it is possible to cross although the water is still very high. 
We were in rather low spirits until this fact was ascertained but we 
felt quite a change as soon as it was announced. Plenty of buffalo 
meat in camp but short allowance of bread. Rocks and gravel still 
seen although not so frequent as for several days past; some are evi- 
dently the cropping out of rock beneath the surface; saw one very 
much like the one seen in the White Earth Fork. Too tired to write 
more—Timber scarce; more plenty further up. 

Sunday April 21st—We are yet on the east bank of the River a 
Jacques, and this has been one of the longest days I have ever passed. 
It really appears as though it had 48 hours instead of the usual allow- 
ance of 24. We arose early and found it snowing with every appear- 
ance of storm for the day. This of course put a stop to passing the 
river, which I liked very much as afforded a quiet sabbath. But it was 
too unpleasant to read inside or outside of the lodge and besides that 
I became fidgetty and restless and could not have read if books had 
been near me. About 10 O’clock there was some appearance of clear- 
ing off and a warm afternoon. Alexander determined to cross but 
by the time that things were ready for it, the wind got around to the 
north again and blew violently so that it was impossible for the horses 
to goover. Weall then settled down to spend at least one more night 
here; I felt tired and took a short walk on the hill for exercise. When 
I returned the Indians were preparing to go for buffalo, which had 
appeared in great number to the north; in a few minutes they were 
off and are now probably giving some of them a good chase. 

It is now intensely cold and threatens a terrible snow storm, and I 
almost wish it would come for then perhaps we would have some clear 
weather; the sun has been very sparing with his favors lately as we 
have not seen the light of his countenance for some days and but very 
seldom for two weeks past. But unfavored as we have been in some 
things, we have been greatly blessed in others, for if we had not found 
buffalo and Indians to kill them we would now likely be in a camp 
very scarce of provisions; but as it is, the only thing we feel con- 
strained to economise in, is bread. This I have not tasted for two 
days and probably will not for some days to come; we have a little but 
we save it, lest we should run out of meat. We are rich in buffalo 
meat and as the cow killed yesterday had some fat we had the pleasure 
of making a breakfast on steak. I ate some pudding to-day, made 
by our hostess, of buffalo meat cut into about as large a piece as a per- 
son would take at a mouthful and stuffed in a skin which probably had 
not seen water after being taken from the animal. 


46 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [ BULL. 147 


T am now sitting in the lodge with four little girls playing opposite 
me. Alexander is sleeping at one side and Jim frying some fat on 
the other, while several dogs of various sizes and colors are enjoying 
themselves about us. There is quite a good fire in the middle and 
the smoke ascends from the top; we find this lodge a great protection 
in such weather as we have had. Since the wind has again become 
so cold and violent the men have moved their fire into the hollow 
just above where they will be protected from the wind. 

To-day I hope has been to my distant friends a more agreeable 
and a more sacred one than it has been to me. Here the sound of 
the church bells are heard not and although there is quiet enough it 
is not the sacred stillness of the sabbath. The privileges of religion 
are great if we only knew how to prize them, and far from christian 
communion as I am I feel as if I would not exchange my hope in 
Christ for anything the world can give. 

Monday April 22nd—Last night was the coldest we have yet ex- 
perienced; it would have done very well for December but in April 
it feels very much out of place. However we past it very comfort- 
ably in the buggy but the men must have been very cold, for the 
wind blew so hard that there was great danger of setting the prairie 
on fire so that they put their fire out. The sun arose clear this morn- 
ing and everything had the appearance of winter; the men were out 
to find the horses which had strayed off during the night and did 
not return until about 11 O’clock. I enjoyed the buffalo steaks and 
coffee very much and have felt well all day. About 12 O’clock I 
went with one of the men after the meat of two cows which he and 
one Indian Landlord had killed; we brought it all home and our camp 
is full of good things to eat. I see [hear] the Indians returning with 
another load. The buffalo are seen all around us and on the opposite 
shore. All the cows killed have calves which are esteemed a great 
rarity. ‘The weather is too cold to swim the horses over so that we 
are fixed here until warm weather comes again. 

I was told to-day by a man well acquainted with the River 4 Jacques 
that there were numerous salt springs along its shores, one is near 
our camp and they are more numerous above. Good timber is also 
more plenty above this, here it is scarce. 

Wednesday April 24—Yesterday was another dul! day; we are still 
becalmed by the wind if such an expression be allowable; that is we 
are deterred from crossing the river by the great excess of wind and 
cold. For variety I took my gun in the afternoon and started after 
ducks up the river; my first shot was a lucky one and laid low the 
unfortunate duck that had fallen into my path. I went into the 
water about 10 inches deep to get him and walked the remainder of 
the afternoon with wet socks and moccasins, without being injured 


McDmrMorr] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 47 


by it; this shows how greatly I have been benefited by my trip. This 
morning I armed again and started out after some booty ; my principal 
object was to get a good duck to skin and stuff. The first one I shot 
at was a little diver, a beautiful little duck with a black head, and 
black and grey back; he never noticed my first, second nor third shot 
but becoming foolhardy remained very near to me; I fired again and 
he was numbered with the dead. For several hours more I hunted 
but had no better success than scaring several ducks and breaking 
the wing of one. He was on a small stream in a cooley and when 
hit happened to be in a pool quite deep and wide. According to their 
custom he ran to the shore and hid but finding himself discovered, 
ran back into the pool again before I could get him. I made all kinds 
of noises, threw at him and tried to get him into shallow water but 
with no success. There he remained until he tired me out; then I 
resorted to cunning and the bird outwitted me; I pretended to go 
away but lay down in the grass and watched him; immediately he 
went to the shore and struggled out into the grass: thinks I you’re 
mine now, but try my best I could not find him and had to come away 
without him. 

When I reached the camp it was 12 O’clock and Jim had dinner 
for me; it consisted of an onion, some boiled sweet corn, water and 
most excellent buffalo roast done before the fire on a stick. I stuck 
the stick in the ground near me and made one of the most delicious 
dinners that my memory bears in mind. After dining I enjoyed a 
pipe and a snooze and then fell to work to skin a large duck which 
Angelo had killed: it was no slight job and two hours and a half had 
passed before it was through and badly done at that; it requires the 
greatest degree of patience and mine was all in requisition, however 
thinks I, Audubon himself did not learn to skin birds ina day. Here 
have I in the wilds of the River 4 Jacques without any instructor taken 
my first lessons in this art: what shall the end be? It is now a beauti- 
ful, clear warm evening; we have been here since Saturday noon and 
it is now Wednesday but there is a prospect of getting over to-night. 
The wind has lulled a little and already two horses are over; the poor 
fellow had to swim about half a mile but I believe they have arrived 
safely. Imust stop and goto work to cross. 

Thursday April 25—We got over the river last night and all again 
settled down by 8 O’clock. Just as I went over the scene appeared to 
me most picturesque and wild; on one side the Indians, their pack- 
horses and children were scattered for about 14 a mile; on the opposite 
shore were all our horses grazing at their leisure while the canoe 
was moving swiftly and smoothly in the water and a glorious sun 
set was gilding the whole scene. We arose for an early start this 
morning but the horses had gone off during the night and the men 


48 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BuLL, 147 


did not get back with them until nearly 8 O’clock. I have been much 
struck with the great fatigue endured by these voyageurs without a 
single grumble; this morning they were all out before 4 O’clock after 
the horses and were on the run till 714 O’clock; when they came 
back they packed their horses immediately, took a piece of boiled meat 
in their hand and a cup of coffee and have been travelling hard all 
day without any thing to eat, and now are off a mile for wood & I 
hear no murmurs. 

This has been a clear and very warm day, so that it has been quite 
fatiguing to travel. Buffalo® very numerous. The wind has turned 
North this evening and blows violently. Much to my regret it blew 
my thermometer from its place and broke it. 

We have no wood at this camp and we cooked our supper with 
rushes; water bad and all day have had nothing but pond water, which 
tastes better than at first. We are now very near the Missouri. 

Observed to-day more frequent deposites of stone than at any pre- 
vious place; came across several little hillocks whose tops were almost 
white with them, some as big as a man’s head and the whole prairie 
well covered with gravel. No timber. 

Saturday, 11 A. M. April 27—Yesterday was an exceedingly un- 
pleasant day to travel; when we arose we found a violent north wind 
blowing but as soon as we had breakfasted we were off on the dreary, 
cheerless prairie. We saw but little wood but as the road was hilly 
ponds were frequent; about ten Oclock we crossed a little stream that 
gave us some trouble because of the mire; cold as the day was the 
Indians waded through without hesitation. About 12 Oclock we came 
into a very hilly section; the land was cut up into steep hills and deep 
ravines with a little scrubby timber in them. At 1 Oclock we reached 
the spot where the Indians had been certain of meeting Old Eagle 
who had been there hunting buffalo, but Old Eagle was not to be 
found; he had been there but had gone and now our Indians looked 
sad; they had left a good place for buffalo and had come here where 
there apparently were none. We also had depended on getting some 
dried meat here and were at first apprehensive of being short of pro- 
visions should bad weather overtake [us]; but a review of the larder 
showed a supply for 8 or 10 days. There was every appearance of a 
terrible storm and occasionally it would snow terribly, but bad as 
our situation promised to be we were thankful that it was no worse; 
had these appearances of a storm overtaken us the night before when 
there was not a stick of wood within two miles we might have been 
filled with real apprehension for our safety, but here we had wood, 


* The Bureau of American Ethnology manuscript stops at this point; the original journal 
at the Missouri Historical Society, however, carries on for another month. The printed 
form of the journal, which appeared in the Smithsonian Report for 1850, for some unknown 
reason, began with the entry for April 27. But the journal as now reprinted is entirely 
from the original from the 27th of April to the 28th of May. 


McDsrMmorr] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 49 


water and grass convenient and we were in a cooly [sic] well sheltered 
from the storm. 

The afternoon passed away rapidly we had a good fire in the lodge 
and had for a dinner a most delicious piece of meat roasted before 
the fire; after dinner I got out my sewing apparatus and put two 
buttons on my coat, and fixed our hats with strings to tie under the 
throat. About 8 O’clock we went to rest in our wagon anticipating 
a day of cheerless rest on the morrow, but providence was kinder to us 
than we anticipated and about 4 O’clock this morning we were awak- 
ened by the stir around indicating a day of travel and sure enough it 
has been a most delightful day. 


CHOUTEAU CREEK 


We were off by 514 O’clock and soon crossed Chouteau Creek on 
which we had been camped.” It is a very small stream. Our course 
thus far to day has been over level prairie since we left the creek 
and its forks. No timber in sight and water very scarce. Buffalo 
plenty. I forgot to mention that just as we were leaving the River a 
Jacques a very large white wolf came walking leisurely not very far 
from us. Alex shot at her but missed, when the wolf scampered off. 
It was pure white and quite a beautiful animal. 


ANDY’S LAKE—PRAIRIE DOGS 


Sunday April 28—Yesterday after dinner we traveled about 5 
hours and encamped on the shore of Lake Andy, a long and large 
lake about 10 miles from the Missouri and about 60 from the a Jac- 
ques.” Our road was over fine prairie land and there was more 
appearance of grass than we had previously seen. I put in my book 
two specimens of a small weed the first that I had seen. During the 
day I got also three specimens of animals, one prairie squirrel whose 
skeleton I desire to get—one prairie dog whose skul [sic] I will keep 
and one lizard which appears to have withered and dried up: it was 
found on the shore of the lake. This prairie dog was shot by Alex- 
ander in the afternoon in the first village that we have seen; he shot 
at two others but did not get them; even when wounded they are so 
exceedingly quick in their motion that a person can scarcely get them. 

This morning we were off before 5 Oclock; it has been a beautiful 
clear day and very fine for travelling except a strong head wind. The 
road has been very hilly indeed but is now less so; we have seen no 
timber except a very few small trees: where we are camping there are 
some thorn bushes and three or four small trees, but even these are bet- 


8 Chouteau Creek, the western boundary of Bon Homme County, S. Dak., was the Goat 
Creek of Lewis and Clark and the Nawizi River of Nicollet’s map (Coues, 1893, vol. 1, 
p. 108). It enters the Missouri, from the left, a few miles above the Niobara. 

% Lake Andes is about 12 miles northwest of Wagner, Charles Mix County, S. Dak. 


50 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Buuw, 147 


ter than yesterday noon’s camp when we had fire of buffalo dung. 
This morning the cooleys have been filled with snow 4 or 5 feet deep in 
places, and distant hills appear covered with it. 


AMERICAN FORK * 


Tuesday April 30—Here am I at 8 Oclock in the morning at our 
camp on the American Fork tired and hungry for my breakfast. On 
Sunday evening about sunset after a long day’s march we reached a 
good camp on Cow creek.” This is a small stream, the approach to it 
is over very steep, irregular hills covered with stones, not rocks; it is 
better timbered than any stream we had seen for days. During the 
night we were awakened by the roaring of the wind and the beating of 
show against the carriage. Of course we expected to find the ground 
covered with snow in the morning but to our agreeable surprise the 
sun arose clear and the sky almost cloudless. We had breakfast and 
were on the march by 414 Oclock. 


BUTE BIJOUX 


The road was over gently rolling prairie without any wood, but with 
frequent ponds of water probably dry in the summer. About 914 
Oclock we reached the Bute Bijoux which on Sunday morning we had 
seen far in the distance covered with snow. It isa clump of hills rising 
out of the plain, very irregular and covered with rocks which have the 
appearance of light coloured limestone, at a distance. 

There we found some wood, water and grass and rested two hours 
for dinner. It is 18 miles from that to the American Fork! and as 
that would make a forced march it was not without some hesitation 
that Alexander determined to goon. Our horses have had no grass but 
the dry grass of the prairies and are very much fatigued by their long 
journey and the cold. However we all felt so anxious to get through 
that we started. Our route lay across a wide prairie without wood 
for many miles: and covered with unburnt grass. We found it very 
warm when we first started but a cold north wind soon began to blow 
more violently than it had from the East before and in a few hours it 
became intensely cold. About 4 Oclock we discovered Indians at a 
distance and they also discovered us but took us for buffalo. Soon two 
scouts reached us coming at a full gallop. We went on with them to 
their lodges of which there were several and there appeared to be a 


88 See footnote 101. 

® Cow Creek was probably the Pratt’s Creek of Warren (see footnote 93). 

10 Bute Bijoux or Bijou Hills were on the east (left) bank of the Missouri a few miles 
below the White River of South Dakota. Maximilian described them as “Some lofty hills, 
hereabouts, are called Bijoux Hills, after a person of that name, who resided here many 
years” (1904-7, vol. 1, p. 301). They were named for Louis Bissonet dit Bijou (1774- 
1836) of Saint Louis (Drumm, ed., 1920, pp. 148-149). 

101 American Creek enters the Missouri from the east above Chamberlain, Brule County, 
8. Dak. 


McDrrMorT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 51 


very friendly conversation between Alex and the men for a short time 
but we soon passed on. At our arrival men, women, children, dogs, 
and horses all came out to look. We still continue our fatiguing march 
over the dreary prairie but at length as night came on we found it 
would be too fatiguing to go to the Fork, and we encamped under a 
little hill and beside a pond. No wood however was seen, and the men 
scoured the country for Buffalo dung. When they brought it, it 
would not burn and we had to break up two of our boxes to start the 
fire and cook our suppers. I ate heartily and went to bed immedi- 
ately for I was fatigued and there was no comfort outside. We were 
warm in the buggy and slept soundly till about 414 Oclock when we 
were up and off. Weare now 12 miles from the first trading post be- 
longing to Fort Pierre. 


YANKTON TRADING HOUSE” 


Wednesday May 1st—When I made my entry yesterday it was 
[with] the pleasing anticipation of spending the night at the Yankton 
Trading House, but travellers must not calculate too certainly on every- 
thing turning out as they desire; the previous part of our journey might 
have taught us this and if it did not the present lesson certainly has im- 
pressed iton my mind. We had a beautiful road over rolling prairie 
and a fine day for it; everything seemed to favor us and as we moved 
along fatigued by our previous long marches my heart felt glad that at 
least one night’s rest was before me. Soon the steep hills, that indicate 
the nearness of a river, were reached ; we began to go over these gladly 
and my eyes were delighted by a most picturesque scene. I thought it 
would have been a most enchanting sight for a painter—beyond the 
little river at the foot of the hills on ground gradually rising were 
pitched probably 200 indian lodges with all that irregularity and those 
wild appurtenances that well become a scene in the wilderness. All 
that was wanting to make it as lovely as possible were the green grass 
on the ground and the summer dress of the trees. The hills over which 
we were passing were very steep and very irregular and some of them 
had the appearance of volcanic action. I picked up a stone from one 
of them that looked as though it had once been melted and the hill was 
covered with such. 

We soon reached the stream called Crow Creek™ I believe and 
instead of its being a small rivulet easily crossed it was rolling along 
with great velocity and far out of its banks. 

Here we were put to a stand again; and all we could do was to camp 
and wait for a skin boat to be made and then cross. We soon had our 

102 The Yankton Trading House was not a “post” like Fort Pierre, but apparently one 
of the numerous little trading establishments scattered through the Indian country and 
dependent on one of the Forts. The next paragraphs show that it was located on the north 


bank of Crow Creek. 
108 Crow Creek enters the Missouri from the east in Buffalo County, 8. Dak. 


52 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BULL. 147 


dinner which was enjoyed as hungry men only know how to enjoy plain 
fare. Meanwhile a number of indians had come in, some of them 
swimming the river cold as the day was and something must be cooked 
for them; fortunately they are content with what we regard as very 
plain fare and they eat it in as plain a manner. 


INDIANS 


It was very amusing to see the strange mixture of civilized and 
savage costumes exhibited in the dress of some of them: one fellow 
particularly struck my attention; he had met us on the hill with a 
friendly shake of the hand and a “how do you do”; all his garments 
consisted of a short shirt and a waist coat with the usual indians clout ; 
his nether garments wore [sic] the clothes that nature made them; 
he was full of talk, was very officious and when the mush was given 
them he always made it convenient to the helper by eating out of the 
pot between times. During the afternoon many more young fellows 
came across swimming the rapid cold stream and remaining all day 
with scarcely any clothes. They were all anxious for horses and two of 
them brought the trader’s receipt for 30 robes. They of course must be 
served and soon one of them was capering around on a fine bay horse 
which he had selected. ‘The horse dealing was carried on as it is done 
in the states; all the by-standers had a great deal to say and there 
appeared to be a great deal of good humor on all hands, 

During the afternoon the hands from the post had been at work on 
the boat and Alex and I expected to go to the houses [1i. e. Yankton 
Trading House] that night but when the boat was done, it was a proof 
of the old adage—most haste—less speed—the boat would not do, 
although it was got across the stream. We therefore set down quietly 
to spend the night in our good wagon again. Many of the Indians 
stayed all night but I went to bed soon very much fatigued; as I 
watched the different countenances around the fire I was struck by the 
fact, that the circle of faces presented the same variety as to expression, 
intelligence, &c as would be exhibited by an equal number of Ameri- 
cans—in none did I notice the expression of ferocity—One young man 
in particular attracted my notice—he had a very intellectual mouth and 
expression and stood by himself with the mark of deep thought on his 
countenance—his appearance interested me greatly and at once sug- 
gested my friend Wistar Hodge to me but at the same moment my eye 
rested on a common feather, picked up probably on the prairie—stuck 
in his head for ornament and I could not keep from smiling at the 
ridiculous contrast between my intelligent young friend and the 
thoughtful indian—poor fellow—perhaps if he had an opportunity 
for study he would ornament his head with a more honorable feather 
than pleased his fancy yesterday. 

Monday, May 6th—While writing on the other page it became so 


McDERMOrTT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 53 


dark that I had to stop and since that we have had too fatiguing a 
time to write. 

Everything was crossed safely over the river and by evening we 
were all safe and snugly fixed at Randells.1%* The Indians had bought 
all our horses that were for sale and they came to the houses with us. 
There Alex had a feast prepared for them and they all appeared well 
satisfied. A feast for the Indians isa very simple affair—a little coffee 
and some gammon, or mush served in the simplest style serve them. 
There were 60 or 70 gathered at this one; before it was ready they 
came in and out and sat talking, joking and passing around the pipe 
just as whites spend their time when gathered for a dinner. When 
the things were prepared the two kettles were placed in the middle of 
the floor and each one was furnished with a pan of some kind to eat 
in, but they got no spoons or anything to answer the same purpose. 
Alex then made quite a long speech, not however standing up but 
sitting on a bench with his hat on his head and pipe in his mouth. 
One of the old men then arose, shook hands with him, resumed his 
seat on the floor and made quite a long and animated speech. I could 
not understand a word but was much interested by his earnest manner. 

Both of the speeches were frequently interrupted by cries of “how! 
how” corresponding I suppose to our “hear, hear” indicating appro- 
bation. One of their number then volunteered to help out and he first 
served the coffee giving to each his portion which was received with 
a “how!” thank you. Then the gammon was served in the same way 
and supped from the dishes to the great risk of the tongue and throat 
as I thought. When this was going on Randell spoke and with great 
animation. I was surprised—he is a Canadien Frenchman and a 
very common man but he talked like a lawyer with great earnestness 
and animation. Afterwards the Indians gradually dispersed and we 
sat down to a supper of coffee, bangs and honey, for the whites don’t 
generally eat when they give a feast to the indians. I could not but 
think how amusing it would be to my friends at home to see us en- 
joying this feast of bangs and honey. We had no forks and had to 
use the knives we carried in our belts, taking our victuals in our 
fingers as when incamp. We drank out of tin mugs and I despatched 
two of these full of coffee and a whole host of bangs. I felt satisfied 
and took a pipe and then went to bed but did not sleep very comfort- 
ably for a good while as it was too warm. I wished that we had been 
in the buggy. 

In the morning we were off about 614 Oclock and hoped to reach 
Fort Pierre on Friday evening but it was beyond our power. Our 
men had been furnished with Indian horses and we had put some 
other mules into the cart, giving our mules their old place in the buggy. 
The road was well marked as it is much travelled and is good passing 


1% Randell was evidently the trader at the Yankton Trading House. 


54 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BuLL. 147 


over rolling prairie. Timber & water scarce. The wind blew quite 
violently which increased the fatigue of travel. About 2 Oclock we 
stopped for dinner on a high hill where we found plenty of wood left 
by some indians. After dinner the wind made the travelling so un- 
pleasant that we camped early; our camp was in a cooly through 
which runs a small stream called the Chain of Rocks? from the fact 
of a chain of rocks extending across the Missouri at its mouth. The 
sides of this cooly had on them banks of snow 6 and 10 feet deep. 
In the morning we made an early start with a clear sky and bright 
sun: the wind did not seem to be unusually violent but in less than 
an hour it came. I felt well and found walking pleasant but soon 
I had to lean against the wind and became so tired that I had to get 
in the buggy. The violence of the wind increased and I found it too 
cold inside and so out I got to try the walking again but it would not 
do, and I again got in wrapped myself up as well as possible and 
bore it quietly. 

I pitied the men very much they had to press on the best way they 
could and Alex did the same. About 10 o’clock we reached La Chapelle 
creek 1 as tired a set of men as have been there for some time Ill 
warrant. We all agreed that of all our bad days that had been the 
worst. But plenty of hot coffee and meat we found to be great for 
our weary bodies and a rest of a few hours made us all again feel for 
travelling. The afternoon proved pleasant and we soon reached Medi- 
cine creek?” which was fordable; we passed on and about 7 O’clock 
found a good camping ground at the foot of an island some miles 
below the fort. We were off before sun rise in the morning and at 7 
Oclock on the morning of Saturday May 4th I had the pleasure of 
calling a halt opposite Fort Pierre.1” 


105 Warren made the Chain of Rocks Creek about 15 miles below La Chapelle Creek, but 
his route was now out over the prairie towards the Jacques (Warren, 1856, p. 33). 

1066 Warren’s road crossed La Chapelle Creek (a stream about 10 yards wide) near its 
mouth ; it was about 9 miles below Medicine Creek and about 25 miles below Fort Pierre 
(Warren, 1856, p. 33). It enters the Missouri in Hughes County, S. Dak. 

107 Medicine Creek enters the Missouri opposite and about 16 miles below Fort Pierre 
in Hughes County, S. Dak. It was then a stream about 20 yards wide (Warren, 1856, 
p. 33). 

108 Fort Pierre was built in 1831-82 for the American Fur Company, named for Pierre 
Chouteau, Jr., and occupied until 1855, when it was sold to the United States and used 
as General Harney’s quarters in the Sioux troubles of 1855-56. The earliest and best 
description is that of Maximilian (1904~7, vol. 2, pp. 315 ff.). Palliser, who was there 
in October 1847, wrote: “Pierre is the largest fort belonging to the Fur Company’s trade. 
It consists of a large space about 120 yards square, enclosed by piles of timber 24 feet 
high driven well into the ground. The roofs of the stores and trading houses are attached 
to two of the sides, with the stables, straw-yards, carpenters’ and blacksmiths’ shops, 
and a dairy for such cows as may escape the marauding hands of the Indians. A flagstaff, 
gaily rigged, stands in the center of the square, and the whole establishment has a most 
inviting look to a set of weary travelers on jaded horses, and who, with the exception 
of the aforesaid buffalo feast, had not fared over well for many days past. Here, there- 
fore, we remained a day or two to refresh our horses . . . and to revel in fresh meat and 
new milk for the benefit of our own health.” (Palliser, 1853, pp. 103-104). (Consult 
also Wilson, 1902, vol. 1, pp. 257-379. For Culbertson’s own description, see his entry 
of May 27.) 


McDrrMorT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 55 
FORT PIERRE 


The boat could not come for us at once and so we had something 
to eat by way of variety and waited not very patiently for it to come. 
About 12 Oclock it reached us and as the wind was blowing we were 
cordelled up about a mile and then crossed and landed at the fort 
gate. The cannon and guns were fired in honor of the “Boss” and 
we were received with great kindness. I was glad to stop: we had 
been forty-five days from St. Louis and our trip had been a tedious 
one. Alex’s quarters are very comfortable and we got fixed up better 
than we had been for some days. The indians were soon inviting 
Alex to a dog feast but he was too tired to go; however they made 
it and at night brought him some over and had a talk with him. I 
was too tired to attend, but he brought me some of the meat which I 
tasted; it tasted strongly of dog I thought. Yesterday was Sunday 
and was not passed as I like to spend my Sabbaths but I found oppor- 
tunity to read several chapters in the Bible much to my profit I 


thought. 
START FOR THE BAD LANDS 


This morning I feel very well and am preparing for a start tomorrow 
for the Mauvaise Terre. 

Tuesday May 7th—This morning at 7 Oclock I started from fort 
Pierre for the Mauvaise Terre or Bad Lands of White River.” Our 
company consists of three, young M’Kenzie,“° myself and one of the 
men from the fort. The whole equipment is at the cost of Alexander. 
We are well furnished with provisions for about two weeks and have 
three mules all of which are the worse for wear, but they are the best 
we could get as the Indians have bought up all their best horses and 
mules and are clamerous for more. We had a pleasant morning for 
our start although it was a little hazy. By 10 Oclock we had reached 


109 Cf. Audubon and Coues, 1897, vol. 2, pp. 148-154; Audubon and Bachman, 1852-54, 
vol. 2., pp. 166-170 (Audubon here quoted from ‘a notice of them given to us by Mr. 
Dewey [Denig?], the principal clerk at Fort Union’) ; Chittenden and Richardson, 1905, 
vol. 2, pp. 622-625; the report of Dr. John Evans in Owen, 1852, pp. 194-206. These 
several visits were made in 1843, 1848, and 1849. Consult also Cleophas C. O’Harra, 
1920. It must be remembered that ‘“‘mauvaises terres’ was a descriptive term and not 
the name of a particular region. (See footnote 138.) 

49 Owen Mackenzie, son of Kenneth Mackenzie of Saint Louis and an Indian woman. 
Palliser, late in the winter of 1848, stayed for a time with Owen at the White River Post. 
He wrote: “My friend, Owen Mackenzie, was a particularly fine young fellow, about 
twenty-one, a splendid rider, first-rate shot, and, taken on the whole, on foot and on 
horseback, the best hunter I ever saw” (Palliser, 1853, pp. 165 ff.). Probably the first 
traveler to mention him was Audubon in 1843 (Audubon and Coues, 1897, vol. 2, passim). 
Kurz saw a good deal of him in 1851 and 1852 (Kurz, 1937, consult index). Larpenteur 
also knew him (1898, vol. 1, pp. 223-224; vol. 2, pp. 343-346, pp. 352-353). He was 
killed in 1863 by Malcolm Clarke (for whom see footnote 192). 


56 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BuLL. 147 


Willow Creek," 8 miles from the fort and there we dined. After 
dinner we moved off expecting to go 13 miles further but we found 
our mules scarcely able for the trip and have stopped after coming 
about 8. I hope to reach Bear Creek our destination on Saturday but 
fear that we shall not be able; however I find that to take all things 
patiently is the best way to get along and so I will do. The face of 
the country along the route of today has been hilly; it is nearly all 
barren rolling prairie scarce of water and timber and having the soil 
strongly impregnated with saltpetre. I understand this to be the 
cause of the white appearance I have so often noticed; it looks lke 
lime scattered over the ground and has been very abundant to day. 
Not so much gravel nor so many stones as on the other side of the 
Missouri. 

Mr. M’Kenzie has had great opportunity for learning the customs 
and habits of the Indians. He told me to day that while they have no 
priests nor regular religious systems they all worship something ;— 
they offer sacrifices of cloth and other articles to the Great Spirit and 
this is done by simply casting them in the prairies with some form of 
prayer I suppose. Scarlet cloth is generally preferred for this, also 
calico with red in it, and sheet iron kettles that have not been used. 
The Gros Vents *? and the Assineboines are more regular in this than 
the other tribes; they offer great sacrifices every spring at the time of 
the first rain accompanied with thunder and lightning. Besides this 
worship of the Great Spirit they all have something else to worship— 
a pipe stem, a cap feather or whatever suits their fancy.™ 

The tribes along the Missouri have no chiefs; those who have author- 
ity amongst them gain it by their valor in war, their skill in stealing 
horses and the number of their kindred. They have authority only 
because they are feared and if accident removes these props to their 
authority, they fall. This is often the case as I have been told by 
several familiar with all the Missouri Tribes.“* They make frequent 
war parties but my opinion is that their bravery is overrated, they dont 
fight open and bold as the whites but their great aim is to surprise. 
M’K—— told me of one party of Sioux 900 strong who went to war 

1441 Culbertson was now moving southwest, along the left bank of the Bad River; Willow 
Creek is the first of numerous affluents. “The Bad river, Wahpa Shicha, Teton, or Little 
Missouri river, is about 90 miles long, rising just east of the Bad Lands. The same 
difficulty is experienced as with the lower part of White river, if you attempt to follow 
along its valley. The valley is from one-half to one mile wide, well grassed and wooded. 
The bed of the stream is soft and miry, and generally not fordable. The approach to 
the valley is not difficult for wagons in dry weather. Cottonwood exists in considerable 
quantities mixed with willow, and in some places, ash and oak. Wild plum trees are 
abundant. When flooded, the river is from 25 to 40 yards wide... its immediate 
banks... are about 10 feet high. The stream flows through a section abounding 
in salt springs, and salt incrustations are almost everywhere visible, but the water is 
generally palatable’ (Warren, 1856, p. 12). 

12 Culbertson consistently wrote Gros Ventres in this fashion. 


13 Cf. Denig, 1930, pp. 486-500. 
44 Denig had much the same thing to say (1930, pp. 431-434). 


| 


McDrrMorr] CULBERTSON JOURNAL a7, 


against the Gros Vents and returned having murdered only one little 
boy whom they caught straying from the village. Another party had 
several taken prisoners and burnt before their eyes and they instead of 
revenging the insult, returned crying and were laughed at when they 
got home. There are about 600 lodges of the Yanktonians and about 
400 of the Tetons. 

Wednesday May Sth—We are encamped this evening on the Shee- 
poi + River about 44 miles from the fort; our old mules have done bet- 
ter than I expected to day as they have brought us this far although 
gave out again this afternoon. The road to day has again been very 
hilly and the land barren. Animals are scarce, we have not seen any 
but a single wolf since we left and a few small birds: one of these latter 
is most beautiful in shape and plumage, it is a small snow bird, white in 
winter but now of a dove colour with some white. 

I picked up a number of small stones to day and quite a number of 
small pieces of petrified wood which were all lying in the road. The 
hills thus far have not been covered with stones and rocks as they were 
across the river; I passed but one hill to day having stones scattered 
over the surface and they seemed to have been made by the breaking of 
large rocks; the pieces were about the size of those for turnpike roads. 
The wood has been found more abundant than what I expected from 
the accounts given me of its scarcity; it is scarce but still enough for a 
fire every few miles and water also abundant now but I suppose not so 
inthesummer. We dined to day at Big Hole Creek," now containing 
plenty of good running water but in the summer being only a large 
hole filled with water. 

Last night we had a good deal of talk around our fire about the 
Black Hills. Joe, an experienced hunter, tells me that they are cov- 
ered with the finest pine timber so thick that a person on horseback 
cannot pass through it in some places. There is an abundance of fine 
water but no fish; plenty of all other game. Grizzly bears are found 
there sometimes in bands like buffalo; they live on fruit, meat and 
ants; to get these they turn over the largest logs and eat them off 
the under side if there. He never knew a man to kill one with young 
and less is known about the time of their breeding than about that 
of any other animal in this section. They are not found north of the 
Missouri. 

Note. Grizzly Bears are often found in the Bad Lands, we saw the 
fresh tracks of one at Sage creek but saw nothing more of him.” 


18 This is probably the Chehie Creek on the Evans map of the Bad Lands (Owen, 1852). 
It is another left bank affluent of the Bad River. 

u6 Ff, V. Hayden wrote in 1855: ‘The following day we pursued the same direction, over 
a country having much the same sterile appearance, destitute of water, and camped in an 
immense depression, called by the traders ‘Big Hole.’ In it is the bed of a little stream 
that empties into the Teton river, but at this time [May] it was nearly dry; the water 
Standing in pools and very unpleasant to the taste’ (Warren, 1856, p. 72). 

47 This note was added later; they were not on Sage Creek until the 11th. 


890780—52 5 


58 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Buin 147 


Thursday. May 9th—We are encamped this evening on Cotton 
Wood Creek “® and a pleasant evening it is; here am I in this wilder- 
ness, sitting by a fire having my ears delighted by the sweet evening 
song of the birds and my eyes gratified by the lovely shades of the 
sky as the evening draws on. I have just finished my supper after 
having first cooked it; it was one of my greatest achievements in the 
culinary art and consisted of corn bangs and fried bacon. M’Kenzie 
having made the coffee and attended to the boiled buffalo meat. Both 
he and Joe as well as myself testified to the great success of my first 
effort in making bangs, the only error was in having too much fat to 
fry them in, but “never say die” is one of my principles and I'll try 
corn bangs again before long. 

We have travelled about 26 miles to day which was doing wonders 
for our old mules; from the fine roads I should judge that with a good 
team and a light load a person could easily go to the Mauvaise Terre 
in three days; it will take us 514 days. This morning we left the first 
fork of the Sheepoi Creek; dined on the Ree Creek ™® about 15 miles 
from the former and came on here for the night, 11 miles. These 
streams are all small; water and timber scarcer than heretofore: 
land rolling prairie, but more level land than yesterday. I have no- 
ticed that the streams along this road are different from those across 
the Missouri in that their banks are not so steep nor so much mire 
in them. There are no stones scattered on the hills as there. Land 
apparently poor. 

Friday. May 10—Our camp this evening is at the head of the Little 
Missouri or Bad River.” There is another river higher up called the 
Little Missouri and how this one got the same name I do not know.” 
We have come to day about 26 miles; the route until noon was over 
a section of country very similar to what we passed before; the small 
streams we passed had better timber on them than any we have seen 
since we left. About 9 Oclock we came to what is called Grindstone 
Hills; # they are three elevations ranging north and south covered with 
a sand stone: there are more stones on them than on any hill I have 
seen this side of the Missouri and these evidently belong to strata 
beneath the surface; the soil on these littie hills is different from 
what it is below and the eastern side is much steeper than the west- 
ern; this is true of nearly all the large hills I passed this afternoon. 
I could not examine the top of the Grindstone Hills as I had no 
horse. 

"118 Big Cotton Wood Creek, on the Evans map. 

49 Aricaree or Arikara Creek. Not shown on Hyans map but would lie between the 
Chehie and Big Cotton Wood. 

20 See note 111. 

#1 Culbertson found the real Little Missouri above Fort Berthold on June 13. 

+2 Grindstone Creek on the Evans map is shown about 25 miles above Big Cotton Wood. 
Warren, returning from Fort Laramie to Fort Pierre, 1855, mentioned “Grindstone Buttes 


creek (Buttes aux Gres creek)” ; he allowed only 9 miles between this creek and Big Cotton 
Wood (Warren, 1856, p. 32). 


McDrrMort] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 59 


About 4 or 6 miles from there we reached a basin-shaped valley 
which at once suggested the idea of a lake with an outlet and an 
inlet; there is a ridge about the middle that divides it into two di- 
visions. The face of the country has been more varied than what it 
has been before and timber much more abundant; we crossed the 
beds of several streams which were dry; nearly all the streams within 
a few miles of this go to form Bad River and this point is called its 
head. Tomorrow we mount a high Bluff early in the morning and 
have a prairie for a long way. Grass as scarce as ever; Joe killed 
one prairie dog—one little grey wolf and missed two antelopes. M’K 
is cleaning the wolf’s head. We were all very much amused at the 
old mules about 4 miles from here: we had just reached a good camp- 
ing ground and were passing on; Joe’s little sorrel however thought 
it time to stop and did so; Joe kicked and whipped but the mule 
would only move in a circle or back; in this rebellious behavior he 
was seconded by our two old fellows; we would all whip awhile and 
then laugh awhile at the preposterous notion of camping at 4 O’clock 
on a fine afternoon, and after a time the whipping prevailed and on 
we went. 

To morrow we will get a distant view of the Black Hills. Got 
to day several specimens of insects—yesterday one botanical specimen. 

A lovely evening and a pleasant camp and a prospect of a good 
day tomorrow. 

WHITE RIVER BAD LANDS 


Saturday, May 11—Our camp this evening is on Sage Creek a 
few miles in the Mauvaise Terre, or Bad Lands of White River. 
We left our camp this morning just as the sun was peeping over the 
hills; about two miles from camp we arose a steep and high bluff 
and entered on a wide prairie. This extended unbroken by hill as 
far as a stream called Pinau’s Spring about 9 miles from Bad 
River. We passed down a few hills to reach this, and on the left 
of the road there was a long elevated piece of ground that appeared 
to me as though it might be a mound but doubtless it was only a 
natural elevation. At this spring we found a hole of good water 
and had an excellent place for camp. For breakfast we fared well 
as Joe made some excellent corn bangs and fried some bacon: we 
had also some buffalo meat and prairie dog. I tasted the latter and 
found it pretty good although it had some of the dog taste about 
it. These little animals are very much like a grey squirrel and are 
eaten a great deal by the hunters. Their bark is more like a chirp 

13 “Wifteen miles east of Bull’s creek, is Pinon’s spring, a noted camping place among 
voyageurs, as being one of the very few good springs of water on the road between Fort 
Pierre and Fort Laramie. It is the head of Teton river, and is so called in the Sioux lan- 
guage. It runs [south] for about four miles, then passing through the eastern position of 


the Bad Lands, becomes the Teton [Bad], takes a due east course, and empties into the 
Missouri four miles below Fort Pierre” (Hayden, in Warren, 1856, p. 76). 


60 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [ButL, 147 


and reminds me of birds more than of dogs. They lie at their holes 
and make a constant barking, and their tails go fast as their jaws; 
for every bark a shake of the tail. We passed a large village of 
them covering several acres just after we started but I judge them 
to be lazy fellows as but two appeared to be stirring although the 
sun was then up. I found several good sculls [sic] and a number 
of jaw bones which I preserved. Poor fellows! they had been shot 
and suffered to rot at their own doors. After breakfast I got several 
specimens of a plant growing abundantly on the green bank at the 
edge of the water; I also prepared some wood for the pins of my 
specimens of insects of which I have a few. We then started and 
again arose to a level prairie which we had with only a few hills 
as far as Bull creek about 9 miles. Long before reaching this stream 
I had my first view of the Bad Lands; a bute arose perpendicular 
out of the plain, very irregular in its shape; I viewed it with a great 
deal of interest as being the first of that remarkable ground which 
I had come so far to see. 

We reached Bull Creek 14 about 2 O’clock and there gave the mules 
some rest. Just before reaching it Joe killed an Antelope of which 
we had seen several. We packed the hams and shoulders to camp. 

While there M’Kenzie prepared the scull of a bird called the Curlow 
which Joe had killed in the morning; he also partially prepared 
the scull of the Antelope. It was very warm while we were there but 
J examined somewhat the banks of the stream. It was dry having 
water only in a few holes; it was approached by a long descent and the 
banks were washed very much. ‘There was a sand soil of about five 
feet, then a strata of gravel and stones of about three feet, then another 
deposite of a light yellow clay. 

I took a small piece of wood about five feet under the surface. 

We left Bull Creek about 3 O’clock and moved along very slowly as 
it was very warm and we all felt lazy. The road now lay over hills 
which became more steep and frequent as we approached the Bad 
Lands. These occasionally appeared in the distance and never before 
did I see anything that so resembled a large city ; so complete was this 
deception that I could point out the public buildings; one appeared to 
have a large dome which might be the town Hall; another would have 
a large angular, cone shape top, which would suggest the court house 
or some magnificent buildings for public purposes: then would appear 
a long row of palaces, great in number and superb in all their ar- 
rangements. Indeed the thought frequently occurred as we rode along 
that at a distance this portion of the grounds looked like a city of 
palaces—everything arranged upon the grandest scale and adapted 
for the habitation, not of pigmies such as now inhabit the earth, but 


44 The streams they now cross flow northwest into the Cheyenne; Bull Creek is the first 
of these. 


57 95 
or ae 
#0" 


a Longuude 26° 
West from Washington 


i 
\ eS 
\ w™S SHC 
Zw by 
a B 
% 


Gig 
.W | 
o- 
y 
é i 
Kt no} 
)) 2 
Y soe T 
yj oF U. 


Map 2.—Map showing the position of the Bad Lands or Mauvaises 
from a draft by John Evans of the United States Geological Cory 


ny ay. ee) ea Ae i , ; 
gi ts ¥ un A 
: we! i. Pier Y, ” one ha y vy 
a : 7 5 Wie 4 
tii: ray rf iy eee! aa 7 ve, ye . ed ie ohh oe 
Pye ee 


v5) yte,*) ty Re 
nt 


\ 7 ae, Sra i) ‘ 


4 Pe a 
¢ WRN i 


i 7 j 7 _ 
P ha ; 7 
i oman : * i 


Longnude 26° 
West from Washington 


Bad 
Lands 


GAP 
SHOWING THE POSITION 
f ‘ of the 
— ” BAD BLAMIDS 


or 


| MAUIAISES TERRES 
STB BANS Sa 


from a draft by 
JOHN EVANS 
Of the 
U.S. Geological Corps. 


Latitude 42° 


McD5RMorT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 61 


of giants such as would be fit to rule over the immense animals whose 
remains are still found there. Again and again as from different 
positions these hills came in sight would such thoughts arise in my 
mind and I could almost fancy that upon the wind would occasionally 
be borne the din and bustle of the immense place as these gigantic men 
with their stentorian voices would jostle each other along the streets 
and would hurry in their giant beasts fatigued by the mountain loads 
which made their burdens. The mind could not remain with the 
present, it must range back to the earliest period and ask whence were 
these things, but soon a nearer view would destroy all delusion and 
the fancy must give place to fact and allow these self-created cities to 
be mere sand hills. But sand hills as they are, they are wonderful and 
must excite the greatest interest in scientific world. I wish that now 
we had a company of men of this kind prepared for a thorough ex- 
ploration, as it is my only hope is to be an humble pioneer in this 
work and to be the means of prompting more able men to engage in it. 
Our route lay to the west of the Lands, and away in the distance still 
further west appeared a dim blue outline which marked the Black 
Hills; these are about two days march from us. 

The road from Fort Pierre is in a direction nearly due west until 
about Pinots Spring where it takes a general direction of South by 
West. As it approaches Sage Creek however it becomes very serpen- 
tine for so great is the descent from the plains to the water level here 
that the road must follow all the windings of the ridge to get down to it. 

The tops of the highest butes in the bad lands appeared to be about 
on a level with the plain but I took no exact observation. About 
5 O’clock we came near to Sage Creek 1° and entered on the Bad Lands: 
here it is merely a great number of small hills of all shapes thrown 
together in great confusion and very barren. In thinking of how 
these lands were formed it occurred to me very forcibly that it was 
by some convulsion of nature by which the ground sunk—the hills 
were not elevated but were left so by the depression of the surrounding 
land. This opinion appears to be confirmed by the fact that the high- 
est butes have on their tops prairie land covered with vegetation such 
as the plain beyond the Bad lands; then again the formation of one of 
the first hills over which the road passes confirms it.—the hill is very 
steep on both sides and ranges nearly North and South I think; it is 
just about long enough for a good road and is covered as thick as 
the bottom of any stream with gravel and small stones such as are 


1% Hayden wrote of this stream: ‘. . . so noted among voyageurs and travellers, for 
the purgative qualities of its water. I stopped here several days in the summer of 1853, 
with my friend, F. B. Meek, esquire, and both ourselves and horses experienced its weak- 
ening effect. This creek rises in the Bad Lands, and taking a northeast course, empties 
into the Shyenne. It is somewhat noted for the abundance of fine Cretaceous fossils that 
are found along its banks. For about four miles east of Sage creek the road is very 
rugged, until we again ascend to the table land”’ (Warren, 1856, p. 76). 


62 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Buny, 147 


found in the beds of streams here: at each end of this little hill, stand 
two butes one very slightly elevated between which the road passes and 
just opposite and east of the right hand one is another like them, the 
tops of all which are nearly level and as well as I could observe covered 
with the same kind of small stones as cover the road and just as 
thick: the sides of these small butes are perpendicular and the strata 
of clay in them are horizontal showing that they have not been dis- 
turbed by any upheaving operation. 

This same thing is true of a great many of the hills; the strata are 
perfectly horizontal. I noticed one in which the hill appears to 
have sunk leaving the middle of it rising up as a peak 20 or 30 feet 
high and in this peak the strata are horizontal. It is true that there 
are a great many peaked hills with inclined sides but throughout 
there are many with horizontal strata of clay giving evidence that 
they had been left there and not made by upheaving violence. This 
opinion is recorded as a first impression to pass for what it is worth, 
and it may be altered by a further exploration. On Monday morning 
I hope to reach the petrifactions. 

Tuesday May 14—Yesterday I visited the Bad Lands but did not 
get to camp until it was too late to record the events of the day. We 
had encamped during Sunday on Sage Creek 9 miles from Bear River; 
in the morning we were off early and took breakfast at Bear River. 
The road from Sage Creek winds considerably at first over some very 
steep hills. This creek is one of the most crooked streams I ever 
saw; its banks are almost perpendicular and about 20 to 30 feet high. 
I observed in several places in the bank a thick strata of slate about 
20 feet below the surface of the ground; the water is briny and leaves 
a deposite of salt on the stones; it as all the other streams along the 
route contains at present no running water; the clay in the bottom 
is nearly a pure white and so clear is the water that at first it seemed 
muddy from the clay at the bottom; when the water in these pools was 
moved by a gentle breeze the shadows on the bottom were the most 
beautiful I ever saw. A few miles from the creek we passed over some 
hills that gave evidence of having experienced the most violent con- 
vulsions: these unlike those seen on Saturday appeared to have been 
upheaved and to have experienced the action of fire; one place sug- 
gested the idea of a volcanic crater; it was a slight hollow and con- 
tained a number of small rocks different from any around it, dark 
yellow in appearance: a little above, the hills were of white sand 
and one was covered with small red stones like those found at the 
bottom of streams. 

From these hills we arose to a prairie, the most level that I have 
seen; for miles the eye could detect scarcely the least rise and it gave 
not the smallest evidence of the convulsions that probably raged so 
near it. 


McDrERMorT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 63 


This level prairie continued with but a single interruption till the 
hills of Bear creek. The descent to this is by a very steep hill and 
beyond it another as steep takes us to another level beyond. All along 
this route the Black Hills are distinctly seen in the distance and this 
side of them the woods of the Shayen River. We encamped on Bear 
River * near a spring which is always anxiously looked for by travel- 
lers through this country. I shared in this anxiety and expected to 
see a fine flowing fountain. I was disappointed to find but three 
small holes of water in the side of the hill, but was again agreeably 
disappointed to find it cool delightful sand water. It is the only 
water I have really relished for a long while except perhaps the 
Missouri water. Immediately after breakfast we left our baggage and 
started for the point which I had long hoped to reach; my anxiety 
was great to see the wonders of which I had heard so much. A rapid 
ride over a good road soon brought us to the edge of the descent: 
this was steep but even and in a few minutes we were on the level 
below: nothing remarkable appeared here: in about 14 an hour we 
reached the Bad Lands themselves and my interest was intense. 

The road now was over the deposite of yellowish white clay, so 
hardened now by the sun as scarcely to be impressed by the hoofs of 
the mules or by the buggy wheels, it was very smooth: we now passed 
by a number of small spots of ground from 1 to 5 feet above the level 
of this clay having grass and soil on their tops like those on the 
prairies above; their sides were perpendicular but falling down by 
the action of the weather: the strata of sand and clay in them were 
horizontal. We soon reached the place where petrifactions most 
abound. I got out and looked around me for them. I was shown 
a number of ugly dark red unshapen masses, these my guide told me 
are petrified turtles, their shells being destroyed by the action of the 
sun and they are crumbling to pieces.1?7_ The ground in many places 
is thickly covered with small lumps, the broken remains of turtles 
which a few years ago were perfect. I felt disappointed for I had 
expected to see many fine specimens of petrifactions of different ani- 
mals. However, I started on a voyage of discovery around this pond 
shaped basin and was shown a large turtle almost perfect, his shell 


26 A tributary of the Cheyenne, in the heart of the Bad Lands. Hayden wrote of it: 
“The locality at Bear creek has yielded the large and valuable collections which have 
already been brought to the States by Mr. A. Culbertson, Captain Van Vliet, Dr. Evans, 
and others. ... We spent five days at this locality. ... I noticed one peculiarity in 
the atmosphere at this place—the frequent showers that annoyed us very much, for they 
kept the marly earth around us in a disagreeable condition” (Warren 1856, pp. 75-76). 

27 “These turtles were chiefly observed in a portion of the ‘Bad Lands,’ some five or six 
miles in extent, which has much the appearance of an ancient lake, where it is entered 
from Bear Creek, a tributary of the Cheyenne. At one of these lake-like expansions, 
hundreds of fossil turtles were discovered. They do not rest immediately on the grassy 
plain that forms the present floor or bottom, but on the talus or debris, collected into 
mounds, which have been derived from the disintegration of the marly earths that have 
slid from above” (Evans, in Owen, 1852, p. 200). 


64 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Bunn 147 


partly remained and he was broken in two pieces only: we secured 
him. There were three of us and we went in different directions. I 
found everywhere the remains of these turtles in different stages of 
preservation, none perfect however. I picked up a number of stones, 
and pieces of bone but found no teeth nor any heads. This was dis- 
couraging but on my return to the buggy, I found that one of the men 
had brought an excellently preserved head of an animal; it is about 
the size of a large bear’s head; he had found also several other good 
specimens. When I ascertained the locality of these petrifactions to 
be so small I hastened to get through my collections in one day, and 
although the sun was broiling hot and we had no water except a very 
little brought with us to work I again went with all haste. By even- 
ing we had made quite a good examination of this immediate locality ; 
we had about 14 a bushel of small things, a number of excellent teeth 
and jaw bones, several good heads and a couple of pretty good small 
turtles and the large one. These I thought as many as my means 
of transportation would allow; I have since found them to be more, 
for they are very heavy. I then filled a small bag with the clay, and 
the crumbs of petrified turtle, and started with M’Kenzie for the top 
of one of the highest hills. To gain this was no small matter as the 
path was very steep and mostly very narrow; at length we reached it 
and a most magnificent landscape rewarded us for our labor. The 
bute we ascended had on its top a level prairie of about 20 acres; it 
was covered with grass and as near as I could judge of the same level 
as those beyond the Lands. These prairies on the butes and they 
are on nearly every one, are the ranges of the Big Horn: they love 
to roam around the very brink and along the steep sides and seem to 
think themselves secure in these heights.? We judged this bute to 
be about 200 feet high, and nearly all the others are the same. In 
every direction except towards the prairie we could see these great 
hills towering above the plain below having their sides washed into 
pictursque shapes: the lower elevations looked beautiful with their 
carpet of grass and scattered about through the hard white clay 
surface and this itself appeared almost like water at the height where 
we stood. Away to the south appeared the hill on which is the Ash 
Spring and near it several high hills which looked like the old towers 
that are perched on the hills of the Rhine; in every direction this 
same palace like appearance was exhibited by the hills in the distance. 

But how shall I convey to another a correct idea of these lands? 
this question has occurred to me often to day; my own conceptions 
of them were very inadequate from the general descriptions I had 
heard and I fear that I must likewise fail in describing them to others. 


128 Audubon’s account of this region was incidental to his description of the bighorn 
or Rocky Mountain sheep (Audubon and Bachman, 1852-54, vol. 2, pp. 163-172). 


McDrrMorT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 65 


If you imagine an extensive piece of perfectly level land, and suppose 
that all sinks about 200 feet except some large lots every few hundred 
feet apart you will have some idea of what was probably the original 
appearance of these Jands: you must suppose also a number some 
very small and some very large to sink not so much as 200 feet but 
near it; on all these the highest and the lowest the level prairie soil 
remains, but below these lowest a few feet a yellowish clay soil takes 
its place. In the course of time the rains wash the original perpen- 
dicular sides into various shapes still steep and partaking of the 
spirit of the Gothic style of architecture. From some the original 
soil is washed entirely away and they stand with whitened sides and 
rounding top at intervals amongst their higher and more fortunate 
neighbors. Fancy yourself on the hottest day in summer in the hot- 
test spot of such a place without water—without an animal and scarce 
an insect astir—without a single flower to speak pleasant things to 
you and you will have some idea of the utter loneliness of the Bad 
Lands.” 

It appears to me quite certain that shght excavations in some of 
these hills would develope many very perfect specimens; many of 
those now discovered on and near the surface most probably have 


29 “After leaving the locality on Sage Creek . . . crossing that stream, and proceeding 
in the direction of White River, about twelve or fifteen miles, the formation of the Mau- 
vaises Terres proper bursts into view, disclosing, as here depicted, one of the most 
extraordinary and picturesque sights that can be found in the whole Missouri country. 

“from the high prairies, that rise in the background, by a series of terraces or benches, 
towards the spurs of the Rocky Mountains, the traveller looks down into an extensive 
valley, that may be said to constitute a world of its own, and which appears to have 
been formed, partly by an extensive vertical fault, partly by the long-continued influence 
of the scooping action of denudation. 

“The width of this valley may be about thirty miles, and its whole length about ninety, 
as it stretches away westwardly, towards the base of the gloomy and dark range of 
mountains known as the Black Hills. Its most depressed portion, three hundred feet 
below the general level of the surrounding country, is clothed with scanty grasses, and 
covered by a soil similar to that of the higher ground. 

“To the surrounding country, however, the Mauvaises Terres present the most striking 
contrast. From the uniform, monotonous, open prairie, the traveller suddenly descends, 
one or two hundred feet, into a valley that looks as if it had sunk away from the sur- 
rounding world; leaving standing, all over it, thousands of abrupt, irregular, prismatic, 
and columnar masses, frequently capped with irregular pyramids, and stretching up to 
a height from one to two hundred feet, or more. 

“So thickly are these natural towers studded over the surface of this extraordinary 
region that the traveller threads his way through deep, confined, labyrinthine passages, 
not unlike the narrow, irregular streets and lanes of some quaint old town of the Huro- 
pean Continent. Viewed in the distance, indeed, these rocky piles, in their endless 
succession, assume the appearance of massive, artificial structures, decked out with all 
the accesscries of buttress and turret, arched doorway and clustered shaft, pinnacle, and 
finial, and tapering spire.... 

“On descending from the heights, however, and proceeding to thread this vast labyrinth, 
and inspect, in detail, its deep, intricate recesses, the realities of the scene soon dissipate 
the delusions of the distance. The castellated forms which fancy had conjured up have 
vanished ; and around one, on every side, is bleak and barren desolation. 

“Then too, if the exploration be made in midsummer, the scorching rays of the sun, 
pouring down in the hundred defiles that conduct the wayfarer through this pathless 
waste, are reflected back from the white or ash-colored walls that rise around, unmitigated 
by a breath of air, or the shelter of a solitary shrub.” (Evans in Owen, 1852, pp. 196-197.) 


66 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Bunn 147 


been washed out by the rains; and when exposed for some time they 
crumble to pieces, at least the petrified turtles do. 

I was much surprised to see running through different parts of the 
clay surface perpendicular strata of a singular looking substance some- 
thing like melted glass and almost transparent: the strata are about 
14 of an inch in thickness and do not le in a series of strata but be- 
tween each there are several inches of the clay and they protrude sev- 
eral inches above the clay while in many places the surface is covered 
with small pieces as though these injected strata had-been broken up. 
Specimens were secured. 

Another singular fact is the ayers of a peculiarly formed sand stone 
found in nearly every hill; they are generally of a roundish shape 
weighing probably 10 or 15 lbs. and they are placed as stone in a wall 
around the whole hill and between each layer there are from 8 to 10 
feet of clay. They are not confined to this small size but are also found 
very large and of the most singular shapes. At a hasty glance they 
seem as if placed there by the hand of man; in some places they ap- 
pear as if they had run into these irregular shapes in a melted state. 

There was no water to be found there nor grass except on the prairie 
spots; the water when found is scarcely drinkable. 

Wednesday May 15.—Darkness interrupted my narrative last eve- 
ning and I resume it at our noon encampment at the Head of the 
Little Missouri or Bad River. 

On our return to camp on Monday evening we found all our bag- 
gage safe. On thinking over the matter I determined to start for 
home in the morning. I had seen enough of the Lands to give a gen- 
eral description of that portion of them and had secured a few good 
specimens. ‘To do more than this would have required good horses to 
ride and I had only a pair of very indifferent mules; the weather was 
intensely hot and no water to be had in them so that it would have 
been a great labor to have examined them more thoroughly and besides 
this I felt that a mere general examination such as my limited means 
and time would allow would be of but little service. I had already 
done enough to excite inquiry and further exploration must be made 
by scientific men with a corps of assistants. One day more might 
have secured a Big Horn but this would hardly justify my stay. 
Therefore while I greatly feared that Prof. Baird °° would be disap- 
pointed I determined to start in the morning. We arose early but 
were detained by our mules having wandered off. 

About 7 O’clock we started very heavily loaded. I felt sure that we 
must walk the whole distance and although such a prospect did not 
daunt me yet a walk of 130 miles in very hot weather and after a three 

1389 Spencer F. Baird (1823-87) was made assistant secretary of the Smithsonian Institu- 


tion in 1850. For his part in Thaddeus Culbertson’s expedition, see the Introduction. 
For his life, see Dall, 1915. 


| 


McDeErRMorTT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 67 


months trip was no trifling matter; we started but as we were rising the 
hill of the opposite bank of the river something about the tongue broke 
by which we were detained nearly an hour. Then our mule could 
scarcely pull the load up the hill and the buggy was evidently on the 
point of breaking down. However we got up the hill and on the level 
prairie had a fine road. I got in to ride a short distance and rather 
sad thoughts occurred to me; there I was laboring and fatiguing my- 
self so much in perfect contrast to my pleasant situation a year ago 
or to my situation in Princeton but I felt that I would prefer being 
there to lounging about the fort; the only thing that troubled me was 
how to get the load home; we at last crossed Sage creek and then 
stopped for dinner ; the buggy looked still worse and one of the springs 
showed evident signs of breaking. After a great deal of uneasiness I 
determined to leave there all that we could and hasten home and then 
send a cart for what we would leave. The principal reasons for so 
doing were that the buggy could not carry the load nor could I take 
any portion of my collection at all far on the road out, so heavy was the 
load and so weak the mules that we walked at least one half the dis- 
tance. I felt sure also that I would give out; my limbs could not carry 
me much further. We therefore made what they call a baggage and 
started for Bull Creek; we had a very warm fatiguing ride and al- 
though we reached there early we were so tired that all hands were 
willing to rest. Westopped for the night and had a fine encampment. 

This morning we were up, had breakfast and were on our way be- 
fore sunrise and about 11 O’clock this morning we reached this place. 

A few miles from this we met men with several carts going to trade 
with the Shayen Indians beyond the Bad Lands; they promised to 
bring our baggage which lightened my heart considerably. I find 
that the few warm days since I passed here have brought out the buds 
on the trees. 

Thursday May 16th—Last night we camped on Grind Stone Creek; 
the clouds were heavy and threatened rain but happily it passed over 
without any. To day at noon we camped on Ree Creek and this even- 
ning are at our old encampment on the Sheepoi River. To day has 
been windy and rather cool. Quite pleasant this evening. To 
morrow we hope to reach the fort and it is about time as our provisions 
are nearly out. 


FORT PIERRE—INDIAN CUSTOMS—SIOUX—HUNTING 


Saturday May 18—Uast evening about sun-set I reached the fort 
again very much fatigued and very glad to get back again to com- 
fortable quarters. We had travelled that day 43 miles and our team 
was about give-out. I had been absent eleven days, one of which was 
a day of rest; I had travelled nearly 300 miles—had made consider- 
able collections in the Mauvaise Terre and had seen a goodly portion 


68 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [ BULL. 147 


of the country between the Missouri and the Platte. The journey 
was a fatiguing one to the flesh but a profitable one to the spirit and I 
do not in the least regret making it; my only regret is that my limited 
means allowed to [sic] me to go so unprepared for a more thorough 
exploration. 

Tuesday, May 21st—Fatigued as I was from my late trip the rest 
of the fort has been very acceptable. Sunday was a quiet pleasant day 
but I did not do much reading as I did not feel very well and in the 
evening had a severe attack of my vomiting. On Monday morning I 
felt dull and disinclined to move about; so I busied myself for a part 
of the morning in marking what few specimens I have here. This so 
fatigued me that I took a good long sleep. In the evening the clouds 
threatened rain but although there was considerable of thunder and 
lightning there was to our regret scarcely any rain; this is very much 
needed now for the grass and for the farm which they are making 
now. But everything appears to indicate a very dry and hot season. 
The river has fallen about five feet while I was away and at the 
present stage of water the Steam Boat could scarcely get up: However 
the June rise from the mountains will probably make it high enough. 

The weather has been very warm for some days and should a rain 
come I shall be able to make a good botanical collection but as it now 
is, all the flowers are very backward. I have found several different 
flowers along the route and the same near the fort: one delicate pur- 
ple flower reminded me of the beautiful Virginian Cowslip which was 
plenty about Clifton; another I think is a species of Wild Pea: an- 
other is a modest Little Yellow violet, and another appears to be a 
white variety of the purple first mentioned; it resembles it in every- 
thing but the colour of the flowers and that is pure white; the speci- 
men I secured is the only one I have seen. As soon as I feel more 
rested I will use more effort to secure specimens of the floral family 
in this neighborhood. Yesterday a party started out on a Buffalo 
hunt across the Missouri but I preferred staying in the fort. 

This morning Alex and I took a fine ride on horseback four miles 
up the river; it is a pleasant level road and a fine place for exercise 
of that kind; we passed through a prairie-dog village but found them 
very timid.—A few days ago Alexander made me a present of a very 
handsomely worked buckskin coat; indeed there is no end to his kind- 
ness and I will never be able to repay it as I should. 

Thursday, May 23—This morning arose about 5 Oclock and found 
the earth much refreshed by the slight shower of last night. The air 
was so sultry that we expected another shower but we have been dis- 
appointed. The river still continues very low and everything unfavor- 
able for a very high stage of water; probably before I again reach 
St Louis I will know what it is to travel on low water. Felt better 


McDmeMmorr} CULBERTSON JOURNAL 69 


than for several days past; the fatigues of my long trip are passing 
away gradually and some little energy is again creeping into my sys- 
tem. I spoke to M’Kenzie about getting for me a bow with a quiver 
of arrows which he promised to do, and also to start some little In- 
dians out after the little rabbits peculiar to the prairie; he inquired 
about a young gray wolf which some Indians had a few days ago 
but to my regret it had been killed: it would have made a good skele- 
ton. Having spent an hour in writing I felt like take [ing] a short bo- 
tanical excursion and spent about two hours up the river gathering 
several good specimens of a number of different plants and also col- 
lecting some insects. Flowers are still rare. On my return saw a 
number of beautiful birds who were singing cheerfully: one of these 
was a little mocking bird such as we had first heard on Sage Creek; 
he perches himself on the topmost twig of a tree and sings away his 
varied song with great glee. I saw also a large and very beautiful 
species of the Thrush. After dinner rode with my brother to the Lit- 
tle Missouri; the hills in that direction are covered with gravel as 
across the Missouri: Brought in two botanical specimens. Afterward 
went out to the lodges with Gilpin™ to witness a great game at 
bandy * by the Indians: about 60 were engaged in it—old and young— 
men and boys, and they had a number of bets staked on the result. 
The whole Company appeared to be greatly interested as the women 
stood at the lodge doors cheering on the players with songs and shouts. 
They, the players, had laid aside all their garments but their clouts 
and played with as much zest as a set of school boys but not with equal 
fairness for some of them carried blankets or robes with which to stop 
the ball. 

This, I am told, is a favorite game with them, and sometimes hun- 
dreds are engaged in it. They have another popular game called 
Billiards ** on which they bet a great deal; it is entirely different 


131 Although Culbertson spelled this name consistently so, this must be Charles E. Galpin, 
who came to the Dakota country in 1839 and died in 1870. For him, consult indexes 
to Chittenden and Richardson, 1905; Chittenden, 1903; Larpenteur, 1898; Anne McDon- 
nell, 1940. The Missouri Historical Society has a number of Galpin’s letters written in 
the 1850’s. 

183 Denig described the game in some detail: “. . . two posts are set up about three 
quarters of a mile apart and the game consists in knocking the ball with sticks towards 
these posts. ... Hach is furnished with a stick about 3% feet long, turned up at the 
lower end, and they range themselves in two lines, commencing at the middle of the 
ground and extending some distance on either side. The ball is cast in the air in the 
center of the course, struck by someone as soon as it falls, and the game begins, each 
party endeavoring to knock the ball to the post designated as their limit. The game is 
played three times and whichever party succeeds in winning two courses out of the three 
is judged conqueror ...” (Denig, 1930, pp. 565-566. Cf. also Culin, 1907, pp. 611-614). 

133 “Hlerantsa are fond of the so-called billiard game. ... They play the game with a 
billiard wand that they throw with full strength toward a hoop rolling along the ground. 
This wand or cue has four markings indicated with leather and at the end a pad made 
of leather strips, scraps of cloth, or, for want of something better, even bunches of grass. 


70 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BuLy. 147 


from our game of that name. In the evening walked up to the prairie 
village with Alex to kill a prairie dog but he did not succeed. Spent 
part of the afternoon in reading Lieut. Lynch’s Expedition to the 
Dead Sea: "* From his description of the formations there I have 
been led to think that this section of the country affords something 
very similar to them. That country abounds more in rocks and rugged 
hills and is more fertile, but the rapidity of the streams, the white 
clay, the boulders and rocks found on the hills with the occasional 
out-cropping of strata remind me of many places along the Missouri 
and in the Bad Lands. This land abounds with saline deposites as 
well as that and there are evidences of volcanic action also. The 
bed of the Jordan differs from those here principally in having so 
many rocks in it; his greatest velocity there was 12 miles an hour and 
J think I have seen streams here running at 7 miles per hour without 
the aid of a rapid as that had: the average of the Missouri I have 
been told is about 4 miles. I think that the rocks here exhibit a forma- 
tion analogous to those on the Jordan although this is without any 
knowledge of the subject. 

Friday, May 24.—WLast night I was aroused by the roaring of the 
wind which blew violently through my open window, and I immedi- 
ately closed it; soon after my ears were delighted to hear the rain 
beating heavily on the roof and I was prepared for the evidence shown 
this morning of a heavy rain. 

In the afternoon took a walk up the river for exercise and flowers: 
found very few as the day had been cold and cloudy, however I 
found two new specimens and saw several of the old ones quite numer- 
ous, especially the delicate purple violet. Paid a hasty visit to the 
prairie dog village and got three sculls and then hastened home 
refreshed by the invigorating breeze and prepared to relish my supper. 
M’Kenzie was out at the same time and secured three birds for stuffing 
—one thrush and two quite small ones. 

I noticed on my way home a black bird with his wings marked with 
white where one species has that beautiful brilliant red; also noticed 
a little bird with its breast of the singular colour of a pale pea-green. 

After tea walked out to see another game of bandy; all were again at 
it with hearty good will—it appeared singular to see the Old Chief— 
Little Bear with nothing but his breech clout on and his bandy in hand 
as hard at play as the youngest child in the party and there were some 
quite young ones there; they afforded a pretty sight as they would 
hurry in different directions after the ball in their flesh-coloured uni- 


The winner starts the hoop, both players run along beside it and throw their wands, the 
flight of which is retarded by the pads ... so that they do not take too wide a range 
over the smooth course. ... According to that mark on the cue or wand on which the 
hoop in falling rests, they reckon the game.’”’ (Kurz, 1937, pp. 147-148). Boller (1869, 
p. 196) also described the game. 


144 W. F. Lynch, 1849. 


McDurMorr] CULBERTSON JOURNAL Fiat 


form—their scarlet cloth streaming out behind and occasionally a head 
handsomely ornamented. 

One squaw only appeared to join in the play and as she had on an 
American dress she appeared out of place. The whole encampment 
however took great interest in the scene and every lodge had its 
collection of squaws and babies looking on with various interest. 
It was altogether a wild and cheerful scene and a good illustration 
of one of the national amusements of the Indian. I would suggest 
it as a grave question for those who can see farther than their neigh- 
bors into a mill stone—whether our school boys derived this game 
from the Savage, or handed it over to them, or whether both being 
ranked under the head of Savages may be regarded as having inher- 
ited it from the same original source! 

Two of the voyageurs were engaged in the game and at the end 
of the sport an Indian gave one of them a very good horse with 
probably 20 robes; the same person a few days ago received a present 
of 40 robes; “fortunate fellow” would the uninitiated exclaim, but 
not so fast my good friend—an Indian present is like an eastern gift, 
which is to be returned with compound interest; in this country a 
person always makes money by buying anything he may want from 
an Indian. A gentleman just showed me an Indian who had given 
him a porcupine skin in the winter, and says he, “I haven’t got done 
paying for it yet and I have given him the value of $17.00 already.” 
This system of presents prevails to a great extent here; you would 
think them the most generous people in the world, and they are very 
generous but they get paid a great deal in the same way. ‘This refers 
to the whites as well as to the Indians. Got from Mr. Gilpin, a young 
man from New York who has been 10 years in the country, some 
valuable statistics about the Sioux nation.1*° 

Read considerably in Lynch’s work and was again exceedingly 
struck by the similarity that must exist between the conformation 
of some parts of that country and some parts of this; so striking 
must this resemblance be that a paragraph descriptive of them is 
almost the same as my language in describing the distant view of 
the Mauvaise Terre; it is found on page 330, Ch 15, in his account 
of An Excursion to Masada 1*° where he says, “they beheld in the 
distance, most singular formations resembling a plain covered with 
towns and villages, marble cities with towns and villages, marble 
cities with columns, temples, domes and palaces which as they (the 
beholders) advanced, faded away and finally resolved themselves 
into curiously-configurated hills, so marked and channelled by the 


185 See Culbertson’s “Tabular View” in Appendix 1. 
386 Culbertson evidently refers to Chapter 15, “Excursion to Masada,” in Lynch, 1849, 
pp. 328-335, 


72 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Bunn 147 


weather, that, although aware of the formation, it was difficult to 
destroy the first illusion.” 1% 

I think the picture of Masada, facing p. 332 might easily pass for 
a view of one of the Sand Butes of the Bad Lands. 

It will certainly be an interesting question for my more learned 
followers to investigate and I hope that it may serve to throw some 
light on the formations in both districts. 

Lieut. Lynch deserves well of the simple hearted christian as well 
as of the exact geographer for he had examined that sacred portion 
of the world with a christian’s humility and a christian’s enthusiasm 
as well as with the devotion of an explorer. I hope that he will 
not go unrewarded. 

—Alexander mentioned today some Mauvaise Terre high up on 
the Missouri more wonderful than those on White River—he did 
not know whether petrifactions were found there, or not.**8 

Saturday, May 25th—This morning early the clouds were very heavy 
and indicated a heavy rain but it did not come although it has been 
cloudy throughout the day; just now however it appears as if about 
to rain and it probably will be along one. Fire has been very pleasant 
all day. Before coming here I had been led to suppose that changes 
in temperature here were not sudden; my experience however has been 
very different, as I have never felt more sudden changes than in this 
country. But my constitution does not suffer from them as it did in 
the East, either because of my more vigorous health or of the great 
purity of the air and perhaps it may be from a combination of both. 
The breakfast bell caught Alex and myself in bed this morning as it 
rung 14 an hour earlier than usual, but we were dressed and had 
finished breakfast in 15 minutes from the time we were in bed. I 
cannot become accustomed to this “eating first and chewing after- 
wards” and am always the last man at the table. Mr. Hodgekiss ™ 
the obliging clerk is so kind and polite as to wait for me always and 
has placed me under infinite obligations thereby ; small favours in this 
way are always thankfully received. 


1817 Here Culbertson refers the reader to a previous passage in his journal; under the 
entry for May 11, beginning, ‘‘We left Bull creek about 3 o’clock. . . This opinion appears 
to be confirmed.” (See pp. 60—61 of the present edition. ) 

138 Hividently Alexander referred to the Bad Lands of the river Judith, not far below 
Fort Benton. De Smet, greatly impressed by them, thought: “These Bad Lands of the 
Missouri will some day take their place among the great wonders of the American 
hemisphere” (Chittenden and Richardson, 1905, vol. 4, pp. 1368-1370). ‘The Stevens 
Map No. 2 shows mauyaises terres on both banks of the Missouri: below the Muscleshell, 
and on the south bank between Dry Creek and Elk Horn Creek, opposite Poplar River. 

29 This was William D. Hodgkiss, who entertained Boller at the Ree Post (Fort Clark) 
in 1858 “with interesting reminiscences of his life, he being one of the veteran mountaineers, 
having come up in 1832 as clerk for Captain Bonneville” ; when Boller met him later he 
was at Fort Union (Boller, 1869, pp. 263, 369, 373). He died in 1864. In the 1950’s at 
least he had half a share (or 1/24) in the Upper Missouri Outfit (Anne McDonnell, 1940, 
pp. 234-235). 


McDErMorrT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 7183 


After breakfast finished Lynch’s Expedition and closed the book 
highly gratified with what I had read and much regretting that my 
attention had been so little turned to the geography of Palestine: 
Lynch shows one qualification which has always appeared to me of 
great importance to a traveller and that is a historical and geographi- 
cal knowledge of the land he visits. A trip to Europe or to Palestine 
would be little valued by me without a much more exact and enthu- 
siastic knowledge of their history than I now possess, and were I much 
more familiar with the history and habits of our Indians, my present 
trip would be exceedingly more profitable to me than it now will be. 

During the forenoon took a long walk down the river on the lookout 
for plants but found very few; however got three new specimens for 
the herbarium and several good yellow violets, which I hope will keep 
better than those heretofore tried. I walked for nearly a mile on a 
sand bar and found imbedded in the sand a well preserved Buffalo 
skull, wanting only the lower jaw. I sent Jim for it and it will have 
the privilege of a visit to the East. 

M’Kenzie did not succeed in skinning the small birds this morning 
as the shot had made such large holes in them. In the afternoon 
took a delightful nap and afterwards some one brought to me one 
of the small owls which live with the prairie dog. I murdered it 
and with M’K’s assistance skinned it but as we have no arsenic here 
I fear it will not keep; I have therefore made a skeleton of the bones 
and if the skin decays will have a perfect skeleton at least. While 
engaged in this operation, a band of Indians entered the yard for a 
dance; they were about 20 in number and had two leaders, one on 
horseback. All were dressed in war costume and had their bodies 
stained with vermilion, or with yellow ochre; they exhibit the same 
taste for display that the whites do in their Military Costume; the 
buckskin leggins of those who had them were ornamented with very 
long fringes of several different colours, and so were the coats of 
several; some had long tails ornamented with metallic plates about 
as large as a dollar, reaching to the ground; their lances which were 
about 10 feet long had a long fringe of brilliantly coloured feathers 
reaching almost the whole length; some had handsome bows and 
quivers and indeed time would fail me in describing all their orna- 
ments and implements. Having formed themselves into a circle the 
musicians began to beat on their drums, made like a tambourine, to 
use their other instruments and to howl most melodiously according to 
their taste. All joined in the song, which sounded very much like 
some of the negro songs, all notes and no words, which I was told 
was the case, but the negro is far more musical: while singing they 
also danced, that is jumped right up and down in the same place; after 
having thus danced and sung and drummed and beaten on the instru- 

890780—52-——6 


74. BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BuLL. 147 


ments of two sticks they all gave a great flourish of instruments and 
loud halloos and a grand finale. These shouts reminded me very 
much of the screech and shudder a poor fellow lets out as he jumps 
into an ice cold bath. 

This first performance was foliowed by several others of the like 
general character intermingled with occasional speeches declarative of 
what wonders the orator has done in war, or perhaps intends doing and 
these speeches were received with a true military salute of the beating 
of drums and the loud halloo. Another interruption was the presen- 
tation of a—calico shirt to one of the leaders and of a little tobacco and 
vermillion to the party; something of this kind they always expect. 
Why is it that all uncivilized nations are so fond of the cry, “give— 
give”! This was the first Indian dance I have seen and I confess I 
looked upon [it] as upon some of those horrible curiosities from 
heathen lands—merely as a curiosity not with delight. But all these 
customs should suggest many philosophical reflections as they indi- 
cate more than at first sight appears. The philosophy of costume is 
well worthy of study.—The river is rising rapidly this evening and a 
fine rain falling. 

Sunday May 26th—This has been the most Sabbath-like day that I 
have spent for a long while. I have been in the house most of the time 
and enjoyed much the reading of different portions of the Bible. Think 
that I will give the Hebrew Psalms a trial tomorrow but shall probably 
fail. M’Cheyne’s Life™ has afforded me a great deal of pleasant & 
profitable thought—it is a valuable companion for a student or 
preacher. 

After tea took a short walk with Mr. Hodgekiss and as we passed 
through the lodge I remarked to him that we ought to go armed with 
clubs to keep off the dogs, which were then holding a threatening atti- 
tude. He replied that in a Crow village it would be impossible for 
us to pass with safety as we were then doing but would have to go 
wrapped in a robe as an Indian and under the guidance of one and 
even then clubs would hardly protect us from the hordes of savage 
dogs that would assail us. The river still continues to rise and is 
already in good boating order so that we look for the boat in about 
two weeks. 

It cleared off last night and we have had a bright sun for most of 
the day but about sunset dark clouds overspread the sky and there was 
every appearance of a rainy night, however at present it appears as 
though it would not rain. 

Monday May 27.—This has been a day of rain & mud, but in the eve- 
ning it cleared off beautifully. Spent the day in reading and writing; 


1449 For M’Cheyne, see footnote 87. Culbertson probably refers to his Memoirs and 
Remains, published posthumously by his colleague, Andrew Bonar, in 1843. 


McDerMorr} CULBERTSON JOURNAL 15 


read for the first time a translation of Schiller’s Robbers and was much 
interested in parts but felt my admiration for Shakespeare increased 
by reading this great work of a great German writer. Made out this 
afternoon a tabular view of the Sioux nation on the Missouri, so as to 
exhibit their numbers, divisions and localities. This has been made 
out under the inspection of Mr. Gilpin, who has been in this country for 
10 years and is of good authority on this subject; his account of the 
numbers of the different tribes was confirmed by 6 or 8 Indians of au- 
thority who were in his room at the time.“ 

Hodgekiss mentioned a singular fact this evening; he says that the 
spring which is the head of the Yellowstone gushes out in a strong 
stream of excellent and very cold water and that about 30 yards from 
the source it is divided by a large rock into two parts, one of which 
forms the Yellowstone River and the other the Lewis’ Fork of the 
Columbia. 

He says that the Elk are far more numerous on the Yellowstone than 
we suppose—that in one place the Indians have made quite a substan- 
tial fort from their horns piled together and that in another place 
quite a large hill has been formed by the number of these horns col- 
lected together by the Indians.” 

I have for some time intended giving a description of Fort Pierre 
Chouteau and its environs but have postponed it from day to day for no 
reason whatever.* A person coming up the country on the other 
side of the river has his first view of it about 14 a mile below the fort 
and it then presents a most beautiful view. I thought the whole land- 
scape there presented would have tempted any one skilled in drawing 
to take out his pencil and at once sketch it on paper. 

The main object in the view was the fort itself, having a white 
appearance—lying four-square, surrounded by a square palisade wall 
15 feet high and 500 feet on each side with bastions at the N. W. and 
S. E. corners; then the Indian lodges were seen around the fort, by 
their irregularity of position, their conical shape and varied colours 
giving life and a picturesque air to the scene and for a couple of miles 
below the fort and between it and the bluffs the whole plain was dotted 
with horses grazing and moving leisurely about, while the bold bluffs, 
a mile west of the fort afforded a fine background for the picture. The 
shores immediately opposite the fort are high bluffs almost from the 
waters edge, and with their steep barren, sandy sides look as if deter- 
mined to wrap themselves up forever in the dignity of their own 
sterility. The main channel runs along this shore although at present 
there is a probability that the boat will be able to land at the fort. 
The fort is situated on a beautiful piece of bottom land which extends 

14 Wor the Tabular View see Appendix 1, pp. 132-137. 


142 See footnotes 205, 221. 
48 Hor other descriptions of Fort Pierre see footnote 108. 


76 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Boxn, 147 


for some miles along the bank of the river and is skirted by a range of 
bluff hills on the west by which you rise to the rolling prairie beyond. 
This bottom land affords fine pasture and has a beautiful appearance 
when the grass and flowers are out on it, but the company pasture 
their horses on the Bad River about 8 miles from the fort, as the 
Indians always have so many horses here. But let'me now introduce 
you to the inside of the fort; you perceive there are two large gates 
over each of which there is a large picture intended to represent scenes 
of interest to the Indian; we will enter by the one to your left, as the 
other leads to the stable yard and we will choose a dry day for our 
Visit as on any other our shoes will suffer very much from the mud. A 
number of Indians, men & women, with their robes or blankets 
wrapped around them, their bare legs, painted faces and curiously 
ornamented heads will probably be lounging in perfect listlessness 
about the gate, but don’t be afraid, they wont hurt you. The main 
building that you see opposite the gate and occupying nearly the whole 
length of that side, with a porch along its whole front, windows in 
the roof and a bell on top and above it the old weather cock, looking 
for all the world like a Dutch tavern—that is the main building con- 
taining the mess hall, kitchen and rooms for the traders; to the right 
of it you see a neat log house with a pleasant little portico in front 
and five [fine?] oil painted window blinds,—that is the boujier ™ or 
boss’ house, and the long one storied building painted red and occu- 
pying almost the whole of the north side of the fort is the store and 
warehouse where the goods and robes are kept. To your immediate 
right as you enter the gate are the blacksmith shop and several rooms 
for the men and to your left is a small building containing the carpen- 
ter shop and a room for the men; nearly the whole south side is occu- 
pied by a low building divided into seven rooms occupied by the 
laborers and traders. These low houses are covered with dirt roofs: 
none of the houses are built against the fort walls, but behind them is 
a space of about 25 feet, and this is occupied in various ways. The 
north side has a house for the deposite [sic] of harness and implements 
of labor—the powder house—milk house for they have quite a good 
dairy—the stable and stable yard; the south side has two large build- 
ings for their corn, meat, skins &c while the S: West corner is occupied 
by the office, a one story building ranging with the main building and 
having behind it a house occupied by one of the clerks and a yard in 
which the feathered tribe live and lay eggs. This arrangement of 
the buildings leaves quite a large fine square in the center from the 
middle of which rises generally a tall flag staff, but at present there is 
none as the last was blown down by the wind last summer. 


1444 Bourgeois ! 


McDerMorT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL TE 


The fort Pierre grave yard lies about 14 of a mile south of the fort; 
it is a square piece of ground which has been well fenced in but not 
ornamented in any way; it contains the bodies of a number of dead 
both Indians and whites; the latter are in the ground and their graves 
are marked with wooden crosses or with tombstones, recording their 
names, & dates of their death. The Indians however have followed 
their own customs in disposing of their dead, which is to place them 
on a scaffold about 8 or 10 feet from the ground. As you approach 
the yard coming from the fort, you see elevated on a scaffold sup- 
ported by rough willow poles and now half broken down, a confused 
pile of old boxes of various lengths—old trunks and pieces of blankets 
sticking about. These may seem strange things for a grave yard, 
but these old boxes contain the bodies of dead Indians; they were 
originally placed on a good scaffold and had piles of blankets wrapped 
around them but the scaffold has broken down from stress of weather 
and weight of bodies which appear to have been heaped on without 
order of any kind. If you look over the fence to the left of this 
scaffold, you will see on the ground, one of these boxes which has 
probaby fallen down and broken open, and then the bones lay exposed, 
escept the scull which perhaps has been burried by some friend of the 
deceased : if you look a little more closely you will see lying with the 
bones a dark looking object about 3 inches broad and perhaps 15 
long tied around with a string; that is some tobacco given to the dead 
to smoke in the other world: they always place with their dead almost 
every article of common use for their benefit in the other world, 
blankets sometimes as many as 20 the best parties can afford—tobacco, 
sugar, coffee, molasses, kettles of mush and all kinds of things and 
these remain undisturbed until they decay or become destroyed by the 
weather or wolves. On the east side is a scaffold put up a few months 
since; the box is a rough one daubed with black paint and is sur- 
rounded by several old trunks that were the property of the old squaw 
who rests within. On the opposite side is another scaffold on which 
rests the body of a man who died not many months since: you can 
see the scarlet blanket through the large cracks in this rude coffin. It 
appears to me that this method of burial originated in a desire to 
protect the bodies from the wolves more than in any of their religious 
opinions: they frequently bury the bones after the flesh has decayed 
entirely. On a large tree a little above the fort is a body which must 
have a great pile of blankets on it from the size.1® 

Tuesday, May 25.—This morning arose early and found the day to be 
clear, with a delightful, bracing air: after breakfast went up the river 


45 Culbertson’s original journal at the Missouri Historical Society ends here; evidently 
the second notebook was lost. The remainder of the present text is from the printed 
copy, which appeared in the Smithsonian Report for 1850, with the exception of the 
entries for June 13-18 (see footnote 181). 


78 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BuLL. 147 


about a mile, intending to cross in the flat, with some Indians going 
after buffalo, but they went in such numbers, and with so many horses, 
that I declined, and came back. Spent an hour in writing, and then 
partook of some real Baltimore oysters; they were a year old, how- 
ever, but tasted better than I expected. 

After dinner started with M’Kenzie up the river; he shot at a 
prairie squirrel and missed; we then went on to a cooley, in which 
there was a large rock of red sand stone, seen frequently in the 
prairies below this, about five feet each way, and it appears to be 
on the surface only. I had no hammer and could not bring away 
a specimen; the side of the hill had many stones in it as large as 
a half bushel measure, but they were nearer a limestone in appear- 
ance. I got in this little valley, specimens of five or six plants seen 
for the first time. After returning, I spent an hour in putting dried 
specimens in the herbarium. 

I received some information about the Indians, of which the fol- 
lowing is the substance. The Sioux nation has no general council, 
but each tribe and band determines its own affairs.“° These bands 
have some bond of common interest analogous to the ties of our se- 
cret societies; 147 the Crow-Feather-in-Cap band are pledged to pro- 
tect each others wives—to refrain from violating them, and if the 
wife of one of their number is stolen by another of their number, she 
is returned, the band either paying the thief for returning the stolen 
property, or forcing him to do it whether he will or not. Should a 
wife be violated, they are bound to aid the injured brother, in re- 
venging his wrong. These bands have societies analogous to the 
Orders, Divisions, &c., of our secret societies, in all parts of the Sioux 
nation, and a stranger always finds friends amongst those of his own 
band. One reason why this band are thus pledged, is that so many 
quarrels arise because of the women; they say that in any camp, if 
a difficulty occurs, in almost every case a woman is the cause. 

The Strong Heart band is pledged to protect each other in their 
horses; should a Strong Heart from a distance, steal some horses, 
and they be claimed by a brother Strong Heart, his fellows would 
tell him that he must give them up, or they would give the robbed 
man some of their own horses, regarding it as the greatest disgrace 
to themselves, to allow him to go away on foot. And thus, I suppose, 
that all these bands have some common object that unites them to- 
eether; and here we have the origin of this system of banding; in 
the absence of law it takes the place of our system of justice. The 


146 Wor the Sioux in general consult Robinson, 1904; Hayden, 1863, pp. 364-375. An 
excellent account of government and related matters for the Assiniboin and other tribes 
is that of Denig, 1930, pp. 430—456. 

1447 On the subject of secret societies consult Hodge, 1910, pp. 495-497. Cf. also Denig, 
1930, pp. 434-435. 


McDeRMorrT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 79 


only law among the savage tribes is that of force; if a man is in- 
jured, he must himself punish the offender, but in most cases, to do 
this, he must be supported by others, and who so proper for this 
as his brother or brother-in-law? And thus, for mutual protection, 
kindred are forced to unite in bands. 

To give me [sic] some idea of their religion, I may state that they 
pray to the Great Spirit on any occasion when they feel the need of 
his aid, and then promise a sacrifice of cloth, or a feast of dogs to 
him. Thus, a man is struck by a ball that only sticks in his flesh, 
producing a slight wound; from this circumstance he fancies that 
he is not to be killed by a ball; he holds it up and offers a prayer to 
the Great Spirit, thus: “Oh, thou Great Spirit, I believe that I am 
not to be killed by a ball, and, as a proof of that belief, I will wear 
this ball constantly, and will give to you, exposed to the sun and air 
till they rot, some blankets and tobacco; should I lose this ball from 
around my neck, then I believe that the next one will kill me.” This 
ball is thenceforth worn as his “medicine,” and it is prayed to and 
guarded with the most scrupulous care; it is therefore more than 
a charm, having the addition of the element of reverence and wor- 
ship. The sacrifices of blankets, &c., are exposed on a tree or in the 
prairie, till destroyed. In battle, when they feel themselves in great 
danger, like the warriors of old, they stop, and with outstretched 
arm, they pray to the Great Spirit, and promise a sacrifice if they 
have success, and are careful to fulfil their promise. But they 
have no idea of future reward and punishment; all are to be happy 
in the other world. They know of no moral relation to God; his 
will, as a standard of right and wrong, is never heeded, but like the 
Greeks and Romans, they pray for his favor in their worst deeds." 

One of the most singular things amongst their customs is the relation 
held by a man to the parents of his wife; he never names them, speaks 
to them, nor looks his mother-in-law in the face, no matter how long 
they may live together; he is “ashamed” and thinks he shows them the 
highest respect by acting so; he gets the best lodge, and is bound to 
supply the old people with meat until he has a family.“ The young 
couple occupy the large lodge, while the old folks live in the small one 
behind them, and should they accidentally meet, they hide their faces 
in some way. All his dealings with the old people are through his 
wife. This treatment of his new parents is the highest test of good 
breeding among them, and the man is exceedingly ill-bred who violates 
this custom. The husband never mentions his wife’s name, but in 
speaking to her uses the word “tche,” which good interpreters say they 
cannot translate; it is not confined to this use, but is addressed also to 

48 Cf, Hodge, 1910, pp. 303-304, 365-371; Denig., 1930, pp. 503-504. 


1449 Among the Assiniboin at least this taboo applies as much to the father-in-law as to 
the mother-in-law (Denig, 1930, pp. 503-504). 


80 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BULL, 147 


a man when speaking to him, in speaking of his wife. If she have 
children, he speaks of her as this boy’s, or this girl’s mother, naming the 
child. The philosophy of this custom does not occur to me, but it is a 
very important fact, in the attempt to ascertain the ruling principles 
that make the savage to differ from the white man. What a contrast 
to the happy circle of friends to which a marriage often introduces a 
man amongst us. Indians despise the female sex; say that woman was 
made only for doing man’s drudgery, and for the gratification of his 
erossest passion ; they say that whites ought not to have women because 
they don’t know how to use them—thank God we do not, in their sense. 
How grateful we should feel to the Bible for the great social happiness 
it has diffused over the world.%° Ithink that Bancroft says the Indian 
language contains no word for the abstract father—that he always 
says my father or your father, &c. My brother says that it is not so 
in any Indian language that he is acquainted with. 

Wednesday, May 29.—I forgot to mention yesterday, how the cere- 
mony of sending and smoking the pipe was conducted." The different 
bands of Sioux are not bound to take up arms in defence of one another ; 
_ when therefore, any band finds itself under the necessity of calling in 
the aid of others, 7¢ pays them, and the negotiation is carried on some- 
what in this way: The band wishing aid, collects in solemn council, 
und the pipe and tobacco are placed in the centre; having no written 
language, of course the message must be conveyed verbally, and the 
messenger who has been chosen is in the council. They all make their 
speeches in his presence, so that he may know what to repeat; they then, 
with solemn ceremony, bind up the tobacco in a piece of skin, tie it in 
a particular manner, and paint it with blue earth and vermilion. The 
pipe and tobacco are then put into the hands of the messenger to be 
borne to the tribe to which heis sent. Having arrived at their village, 
a council of the braves is held to hear his message, and to determine 
whether they will open and smoke his tobacco. He makes his speech, 
states the wrongs suffered by his tribe, tells the number of blankets, 
horses, and robes that will be paid them for their services, and awaits 
their answer. If they determine to accept his offer, the tobacco is 
opened and smoked; they are then bound by the strongest ties to meet 
at the rendezvous, and to fulfil their engagements; if they fail so to do, 
they are scorned and derided by the other tribes. On their arrival at 
the appointed place, the articles promised, are handed over to the par- 
tisans 1° or leaders of the different bands in solemn council, and as there 
will not be enough for every one, the leader, if he is generous, will give 
these things to those of his band who are poor and have none. On the 

180 Cf. Denig, 1930, pp. 504-508, 510-512. Denig shows always a maturity and under- 
standing which young Culbertson clearly lacked. 

151 On the subject of war, cf. Denig, 1930, pp. 544-556. 


142'The partisan was the voluntary and responsible leader of a war party; consult 
McDermott, 1941, pp. 112-113. 


McDERMorTT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 81 


contrary, should they decline the offer of this ambassador, his tobacco 
and pipe are returned to him unopened, and he is dismissed with some 
present. 

The Sioux language is said to be as flexible as our own, having 
many different forms for expressing the same idea. They have in- 
flexions of nouns and verbs, but no genders; it is said to be a more 
difficult language to acquire, than either the Blackfoot or Crow 
tongue. Every day seems to develop something interesting relative 
to the Indians, and a careful observer could, in a year or two, collect 
a volume of valuable facts relative to their habits and languages. 

Thursday, May 30.—This morning at breakfast, I was glad to learn 
that the carts from the Cheyenne Indians were in sight, and soon 
afterward was relieved of a good deal of anxiety by seeing them unload 
my specimens from the Bad Lands. They all came safely, except 
some of the bags, which had been torn by wolves which had opened the 
cache, eaten up all the parfleche, and opened the bags in search of 
something more palatable, but the unkind bags gave them stones when 
they asked for meat. I think a number of the small pieces of petri- 
fied wood were lost. A part of the morning was passed in packing 
the specimens in boxes, and soon I had the pleasure of seeing one 
large box well filled, marked T. A. Culbertson; another box is also 
nearly full? Afterwards I prepared a long report to Professor 
Baird.°* While engaged in writing it, I heard a gun fired in the 
yard, and a noise as if a large number of persons had arrived. 

On going to the window, I saw a large band of Indians on horse- 
back, preceded by several on foot, bearing two flags—the stars and 
stripes; it was a band of the Blackfeet tribe of Sioux. They had 
just arrived with about fifty lodges, and, while squaws were putting 
up these, the “Braves” come to announce themselves. ‘They dis- 
mounted and entered the reception room with a friendly shake of the 
hand to most of the whites present. A feast was ordered for them. In 
the middle of the room were placed four (five gallon) kettles, filled 
with most tempting mush, and beside, these, to keep them in counte- 
nance, were two others, equally large, filled with equally tempting 
coffee, already sweetened, while on the floor were fifty large hard 
crackers (pilot bread), and about one-hundred plugs of very common 
tobacco. The Indians were all around the room on chairs, if they 
could get them, while those in the middle sat on the floor, enjoying 
the most happy anticipations. They had no meat in their camps and 


183 See Introduction, 

164 This letter is printed here as Appendix 2. 

185 A subtribe of the Tetons, not to be confused with the Blackfoot Nation which traded 
at Fort Benton and of whom Culbertson speaks in his entry for June 19. The Blackfeet 
of the Sioux ranged the Cheyenne, Moreau, Grand, and Cannonball Rivers. See the Tabular 
View, pp. 132, 134, 135, 187, below. 


82 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Buuy. 147 


had been almost starving for some time. J entered and placed myself 
full length on a bed beside Gilpin, who was master of the feast. While 
the company were detained, waiting for the arrival of one of the young 
men, I took observations; and first, I noticed that they had all the 
gravity of countenance usually exhibited by hungry men of all coun- 
tries, while waiting for their dinners; there was no laughing or jesting 
unbecoming the serious business before them, but the various pipes 
were passed round in profound silence. They were all in full dress, 
presenting an amusing mixture of savage and civilized costumes; 
many of them had fur caps, decorated with handsome plumes of the 
ostrich feathers, dyed red; others had on the much coveted soldier 
coat, and all wore highly ornamented Indian dress. There was a most 
agreeable variety of faces, exhibiting all degrees, from that of the 
stern old brave to the light-hearted daring young scalp taker. There 
were several who had an amiable and intellectual expression of counte- 
nance; they were tall, lightly framed, and with the features of the face 
delicate and long. Among these were four brothers, noble-hearted 
fellows, the sons of an old man, whose bones I hope to carry away 
with me. 

These were the Indians that Gilpin traded with, and he said they 
were all strongly attached to him—that they are most excellent men, 
although they certainly bear a bad name with the other traders. He 
said that the young braves of noble families despise a mean action, 
such as not paying for anything a trader might advance them on 
credit—that they would cast it up as a reproach to any one who should 
failin so doing. One of them who sat near recognized me as a brother 
of Alexander; he asked Gilpin if I was not, and then gave me a friendly 
shake of the hand. After all were in, and each had his pan (they 
provide their own utensils for eating here), this one arose, shook hands 
with Gilpin, myself and the Little Bear, a chief of another tribe, and 
made a short speech, returning thanks for the feast, &c. When he 
closed, an old palefaced warrior came forward, shook hands with us, 
and remaining on his feet begana speech. “Ah,” said Gilpin, “that old 
fellow can speak, he is a second John Q. Adams.” JI regarded him at- 
tentively; he was of the common height, broad shouldered, with an 
expansive forehead, and that style of prominent and large features 
which indicates intellect and sternness. He stood erect, with his left 
hand holding his blanket, and with his right making gestures contin- 
ually. Never did I listen to a more ready flow of language, or to a 
more self composed, dignified speaker, whether he addressed us or 
turned to the Indians on either side of him. His speech was also a 
complimentary one, and was short, as the dinner was getting cold. 
He concluded, and two young men took the office of waiters; they had 
no light task, and before they got through had burnt their fingers, and 


McDrERMOTT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 83 


made the sweat roll from their faces. It was pleasing to observe the 
quiet and decorum throughout the whole scene; each one waited 
patiently until his turn came, and then modestly received his cracker, 
meat or coffee. The Little Bear, the old man and an invited guest, 
had no dish, and when the coffee was being served out, a large tin mug 
was got for him; the young man who was serving, instead of passing 
on, waited until the mug was brought, and then gave the old man a 
treble portion, being a very pleasing instance of politness and respect. 
As they drank their coffee nearly every one, especially the old man, 
made their compliments to us, as we do in drinking wine. The feast 
went on cheerfully, and towards the conclusion, our old man started a 
song, or rather a howl of thanks, which was caught up and echoed by 
several. Gilpin tells me that these songs have only an occasional word 
and that it is the same with nearly all their songs. ‘The tobacco was 
then distributed, two plugs being given to each; but the young men, 
being able to kill buffalo and buy tobacco, gave their portion to some of 
their friends too old for the hunt. I noticed quite a number passing 
their pans, well filled with mush, to their squaws who were standing 
about the door, which indicated generous and kind feeling. This was 
not an act of impoliteness, but just the reverse according to Indian eti- 
quette, for with them it is very impolite not to eat all that is given at a 
feast—you must eat or carry away. Soon after, the parties dispersed 
and went to their lodges, to feast again most probably. 

On asking at what age young men were allowed to attend these 
feasts, I was told that they went to those given by whites at all ages, 
but that they must gain admittance to the feasts among themselves 
in one of three ways—by stealing a great many horses, by giving a 
great deal to the poor, or by bringing in the scalps of a great many 
warriors. The men who appeared so peaceable this afternoon were 
all ready to kill their fellows, on any provocation, and, doubtless, 
every man of them had killed more than one. They are regarded at 
the fort as the worst of all the tribes, and are blamed for killing 
cattle every time they come. They have traded a large number of 
robes this afternoon, and nearly all for eatables, as they were starv- 
ing; they want to trade for meat, but Alexander will not do this, 
on any consideration, for fear of starving himself. 

Oh! for the jaw bone of an ass to murder these miserable Indian 
dogs; just now, as at every few minutes during the day and night 
they are howling like a set of fiends; they have not a decent bark 
like our well-bred American dogs, but it is howl! howl!! howl!!! 
everlastingly—but after all it is their nature, for they are more wolf 
than dog. 

Recipe for making dried Plums.—It is late, but I must note a new 
way, or rather the Indian way of drying plums, for the benefit of our 


84 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BULL 147 


economical housewives. When a lady wished to preserve her plums, 
which grow here abundantly, she gathers them, invites her neigh- 
bors, and they spend the afternoon sociably in sucking out the plum 
stones, saving the skins, which are carefully put away and dried, 
and when cooked with the scrapings of a buffalo skin, are esteemed 
a most rare dish. This is worthy a place amongst “Miss Leslie’s Thou- 
sand and one Receipts.” 1% 

Friday, May 31.—This morning was spent in hunting antelope with 
M’Kenzie; we rode about ten miles over the hills bordering the Mis- 
souri, but did not get any game. The few antelopes that we saw were 
very wild, and although M’Kenzie shot twice, the animals were too 
far off. A wolf was seen scampering along, but at such a distance 
that we could get no chance for a shot. It appears as if I were to get 
no game at all here; the best marksmen about the fort have tried to 
get wolves, antelope and prairie dogs, but thus far without success. 
I have tried to get rabbits, and have engaged several young Indians 
to bring me some, but none have yet come. About two o’clock this 
afternoon, Gilpin, Alexander and myself went to a feast in the village, 
given by one of the tribe which arrived yesterday. On entering the 
lodge, we found but few assembled. Opposite the door or place of 
entrance, through which we passed by stooping and dragging our- 
selves in, was placed a good robe for our seat, and in honor of the 
occasion, a small square box containing a flag. In a short time the 
whole company had assembled, consisting of perhaps twenty persons. 
An old man, who came in last, returned thanks to the host for his 
hospitality, and then each of the company tollowed in turn, all using 
the same form except the title by which they addressed him: thus— 
“brother-in-law, I thank you for the feast,’—“cousin, I thank you, 
&e.”—‘uncele, I thank you, &c.” Then the host gave the hand of friend- 
ship to the whites present, and made a short speech, thanking us for 
our company, and making some inquiries concerning them; to these 
M’Kenzie replied, and then the master of ceremonies began to help 
the food, each one having provided his own dish. The mess, consist- 
ing of two dogs, of reverend age and valuable services, judging from 
appearances, had been boiled in a large copper kettle and was served 
cut in very generous shares, beginning with us, and going around 
to complete the circle. I noticed that the man who sat at Gilpin’s right 
was not served, nor had he a pan—this seemed very strange, as he 
was the one who had made the speech to us, and appeared to be a 


186 Hliza Leslie was born in Philadelphia in 1787, the daughter of Robert Leslie and 
Lydia Baker, and died in 1858. She was the author of verses, stories, cookbooks, children’s 
books ; a contributor to Godey’s Lady's Book, Graham’s Magazine; the editor of several 
annuals. Her first publication was Seventy-Five Receipts for Pastry, Cakes, and Sweet- 
meats (1827). Culbertson probably had in mind one of her later compilations, either 
The Domestic Cookery Book (1887) or The Lady’s Receipt Book (1846), both of which 
were very popular. (Consult Duyckinck, 1856, vol. 2, pp. 87-89 ; Das, vol. 11, pp. 185-186.) 


McDERMOTT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 85 


prominent personage. On inquiring the reason, I was told that he 
was the host. “The host,” said I, “and don’t he eat?” “No, etiquette 
requires that he shall not partake at all of the feast.” Nor did he 
serve it out, but simply sat as a mere looker on. A rib was given each 
of us, and having tasted it, the custom of carrying away what we could 
not eat, was a relief to us, and we left, carrying with us our ribs. 
There was a good deal of conversation, during which one of the old 
men spoke of their custom of eating dogs, and said that they regarded 
dogs as we do cattle. And it is partly true; they are of great service 
to us, being much used as pack animals, so that a dog feast is really 
an expensive one and a great compliment. But I was surprised to 
learn that this custom does not extend to the mountain Indians, who 
eat them only when starving. Hodgekiss tells me that a fat pup, well 
boiled, and the water changed several times, and then allowed to cool, 
is a delicious dish, and has no dog taste about it. 

Before one of the lodges near where the feast was held, was the 
body of a little girl who had died yesterday; it was wrapped in a 
blue blanket, and was to be placed on the scaffold as soon as the coffin 
should be finished. I did not see the ceremony of conveying it to 
the tomb, or rather, to its resting place, but it was probably done 
in a very simple manner, as I was told that the burying of the dead, 
except braves, is left principally to the squaws. Blankets and food 
are placed on the scaffold for their use in the other world; the family 
of the deceased mourn very much, and if others aid them in this sad 
work, they expect pay and are sure to get it.” 


THE FEL PASO—JOURNEY UP THE MISSOURI 


Wednesday, June 5—This afternoon I am on the Missouri, above 
Fort Pierre, and again at leisure to write as usual. On Monday eve- 
ning it rained very heavily, and in the midst of this pouring down, 
an Indian arrived and stated that the steamboat was but a few miles 
down the river; this announcement electrified the whole establishment, 
and there were various opinions as to the hour she might be expected. 
At length we all settled down in the belief that she certainly could 
not come that night, but that morning would bring her. About this 
time Gilpin brought me a prairie dog an Indian had killed with a 
stick; the skin was not injured in the least, and the hair was in ex- 
cellent order, the old coat having been shed so recently. I determined 
to take both skeleton and skin, as the specimens are so rare. An 
Indian who happened to be in the room soon took off the skin, and 

187 Denig described the burial customs at greater length (Denig, 1930, pp. 571-576). 
He said, however, that “there is as much mourning or distress observed on the death 
of their children, perhaps more, than when grown. On these occasions often some one 
of the parents destroy themselves, and all other Indians are very attentive to them for 


several days until the most violent grief is over.” He may, of course, have had in mind 
only the Assiniboin. 


86 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Buuy. 147 


I began to cut the meat from the bones, but it turned out to be a long 
job. At length the bones were cleaned in tolerably good order, and 
after various efforts the skin has at length been stuffed so as to make 
afinespecimen. I may think myself fortunate in having thus secured 
a prairie dog; I am told that Audubon failed in getting one and Dr. 
Evans *§ told me that he had not secured a specimen last summer, 
as the skins of three he had taken spoiled. 

Tuesday morning opened rather gloomy, but in spite of mud on 
the earth and clouds in the sky, all preparation was made for the ar- 
rival of the boat, and every one was on the look-out to get the first 
peep. At length, about half-past one o’clock, the smoke was discov- 
ered as the boat began to round the point below the fort; in about 
half an hour after, she hove in sight, and before very long, we had 
the pleasure of boarding the £7 Paso, as she lay just below the fort. 
Salutes were fired on the boat and at the fort alternately, from the 
time she appeared in sight until her landing, and there was a great 
gathering of Indians and Whites to welcome her. A. recognized on 
the hurricane deck, his friend Dr. Evans, of last summer, and soon 
I had the pleasure of making his acquaintance. He had visited the 
Mauvaise Terre last summer, and had made quite a collection there; 
this, of course, was a bond of sympathy between us; it was a real 
gratification for me to converse with an intelligent man on the sub- 
ject of the Bad Lands. He was very free, and we soon understood 
each other. 

The substance of our several conversations was that we were both 
disappointed in the appearance of the Bad Lands, in the number of 
petrifications found, and in the number of localities when [where? ] 
found. He says he believes they are scarcely to be obtained in any 
other place than the locality of the turtles near Bear river, visited 
by me. Our estimate of their extent was the same, namely—thirty 
by sixty miles; he says that White Earth now runs through the whole 
length of them. Before seeing him I had felt very much disappointed 
about my collection, fearing that it would be of little value; but was 
greatly relieved to hear him say that such had been his feelings before 
reaching the States, but that he was agreeably disappointed to find that 


#8 John Evans, United States geologist, who arrives at Fort Pierre in the next para- 
graph, was then on his second trip to the Bad Lands region. The report of his first 
journey (1849) forms a chapter in Owen, 1852, pp. 194-206. In 1851 he returned once 
more to Fort Pierre on the St. Ange and was useful during the outbreak of cholera on 
the boat. Kurz wrote: “June 17. No doctor on board; two more deaths since yesterday ! 
Evans, a professor of geology, prepared the remedy (meal mixed with whisky) that I 
administer” (Kurz, 1937, p. 69). De Smet, however, spoke of him differently : “Dr. Evans, 
a physician of great experience and of remarkable charity, endeavored to relieve him 
[Father Hoeken], and watched by him, but his cares and remedies proved fruitless” 
(Chittenden and Richardson, 1905, vol. 2, p. 641). 

1° The Hl Paso had been chartered by the Fur Company for the annual expedition to the 
farthest posts. (See Introduction.) 


McDERMOTT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL Q7. 


his small collections had excited a great deal of interest in all who saw 
them, and he predicted a like favorable reception for mine. The letter 
I had written to Professor Baird was submitted to his inspection, 
as I wished to have his opinion of what I said; he had attentively read 
through the six pages, and complimented me on the accuracy of what 
T had there stated. “There was no alteration that he would suggest,” 
though he gave me a caution I readily acted on, which was not to state 
any thing except on my own personal observation, not depending even 
on the best authority, “for,” said he “this may appear under the sanc- 
tion of a well known name, and may afterwards be discovered to be 
a most ridiculous error.” I mentioned to him that I thought, from 
Lieutenant Lynch’s description, that similar formations abounded 
along the Jordan; he examined the account in his book, to which I 
have before particularly referred, and coincided in my opinion, stat- 
ing that he supposed that such was probably the case. That point 
will be more particularly examined by those to whom we make our 
reports. The formation in the Bad Lands is what is called the tertiary. 

Thursday, June 6—WLast night the boat laid up about dark, as it 
would be impossible to travel on this river at night. We must have 
been off very early, as when I got up about four o’clock, we were under 
way, and some distance from our starting place. We stopped before 
breakfast for fuel, the procuring of which here is not like that in the 
States; there are here no wood-yards, with the wood all cut and in 
proper order, but whenever a lot of dry timber appears, if the boat 
needs it, she puts ashore, and all hands fall to work cutting and carry- 
ing on board; with the number of hands on board, it takes very little 
time. I landed and tramped about in the wet weeds, to look for 
botanical specimens, and got quite a number, although not in flower. 
Soon afterwards we entered the Great Bend, into which the Shayen 
(Chenenne) river empties; it is about five miles across, and twenty 
around by the river. Just below this bend, while we were wooding, 
six Mackinaw boats belonging to the opposition company,’ and from 
the upper country came in sight, and passed down; they appeared to 
be lightly laden, and were estimated to have about thirteen hundred 
packs of robes aboard. The slate formation appeared on the banks 
just above this. About twelve o’clock we passed the mouth of the 
Shayen, and stopped to wood just above it; it appeared to be a small 
stream. Nospecimens gathered there. Afterwards we were detained 
on a sand bar for an hour or two, but found it to be no annoyance, 
since I was engaged for a part of the morning in putting some speci- 
mens in the herbarium. 


16 See Appendix 2, pp. 139-145. 
161 Harvey, Primeau and Company—also known as the Union Fur Company and the St. 
Louis Fur Company. (See footnotes 200, 202 ; also Appendix 3.) 


88 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [ BULL, 147 


We are accustomed to speak of the Indian as the Red Men of the 
forest; this was true once, when the Eastern states were peopled by 
them, but now they are the Red Men of the Prairie. This, of such vast 
extent, is almost entirely destitute of timber, at least there is nothing 
that would be called forest, except at some places along the Missouri. 
To-day we have seen very little timber; most of the banks are destitute 
of it entirely, except the willow; occasionally a point is seen well tim- 
bered with young cotton wood. I have been told that they go from 
Fort Pierre, one hundred miles above, to get timber for their boats and 
other purposes. 

The banks to-day have been bluffs, sometimes abruptly descending 
to the water’s edge, and at other times having a beautiful intervening 
bottom. It appears to me that although the hills look so barren, the 
river is more beautiful than the Ohio, probably because of the green 
foliage of the willows skirting the banks, and covering many of the 
islands. I have several times admired the fine grass on the islands at 
a distance, but the grass has turned to willows on a near approach. 
These are islands newly formed from sand bars, and they are soon 
covered with a growth of young willows; this is very good for cattle 
and horses, and often is their only food. 

I found my watch to be just one hour behind the watches from St. 
Louis. This led to some conversation with Mr. Picotte1*? about the 
difference of time at the two places. Fort Pierre is only about ten 
degrees west of St. Louis, which would make forty minutes difference 
in time. The latitude of St. Louis is nearly thirty-eight degrees, 
forty-five minutes; that of Fort Pierre, forty-four degrees, twenty 
minutes, making it five degrees thirty-five minutes further north than 
the former, and four degrees twenty minutes north of Chambersburg. 

I am told in reply to my questions on the subject, that the water of 
the river might safely be said to move with a velocity of from four to 
seven miles per hour, depending upon the stage of water. This cor- 
responds very well with Col. Tilton’s account. 

Friday, June 7—Six o'clock A. M.—tlast night we were visited by 
an unusually severe thunder storm, but were not injured by it. The 
sun rose beautiful and clear this morning, and promises a warm day. 
We are within ten or fifteen miles of the Little Shayen now, which 
comes in from the west side of the Missouri.4* The banks this morning, 


12 This is Honoré Picotte. According to Kurz, in 1851 he was agent for the Lower 
Missouri Outfit which included Forts Pierre, Lookout, Vermilion, Clarke, and Berthold 
(Kurz, 1937, p. 235). Audubon met him at Fort Pierre in 1843 (Audubon and Coues, 
1897, vol. 1, pp. 524-529). He figures repeatedly in Kurz (1937) and in Larpenteur, 1898. 
There are numerous letters of his in the Missouri Historical Society. In his will, made 
May 7, 1850, he named as heirs his wife Therese, and his daughters Rita and Celestine; 
the administrators of his estate gave bond of $100,000 on November 12, 1860 (Records of 
the Saint Louis Probate Court, File No. 5841). 

163 The Little Cheyenne enters the Missouri from the left (east) about 45 miles above 
the Cheyenne. 


McDurMorT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 89 


and for several hours at the close of last evening exhibited steep, ir- 
regular bluffs, and slate formation on the western bank, and beauti- 
ful prairie bottoms, with gently ascending bluffs on the east side. 
The strata of slate are generally horizontal. Went ashore last night 
expecting to get some botanical specimens, but found none; a plant 
which I had got at the last wooding place, very much like the fox 
corn of my Virginia collection, was abundant. We have cut green 
ash timber, which the captain says is better than the dry wood we 
have been getting before. No locality of fossil specimens has been 
seen, or rather we have landed at no such place, although I have seen 
some that appeared worthy of an examination, 

Half-past nine A. M—The boat is now wooding on the western 
shore, not far above the mouth of the Little Shayen; the fuel is cot- 
ton wood, that has been killed by the fire, I would judge. Vegetation 
is flourishing, but flowers scarce; got one new specimen and saw sev- 
eral old ones; the purple violet must have abounded here, as the beds 
were numerous, and I took one merely as a remembrance of this upper 
country. Saw several frogs, but was able to secure but one of the 
smaller kind; have as yet seen no snakes; saw some mushrooms. Slate 
still continues to appear on the western bank. 

This is certainly the most agreeable traveling I ever experienced; 
the air is delightful—the shores and trees quite green—only three of 
us on board, besides the Captain, who are really companions; *** my- 
self, the only “distinguished” stranger, living on the best, and treated 
with the most generous kindness and respect—all these things com- 
bine to render the trip as delightful as possible. I can never forget 
the kindness that has afforded me this pleasure. The musquitoes, 
however, are showing the cloven foot; they have made sundry violent 
attacks on my person, with malice aforethought, and intent of blood- 
drawing, and I have murdered numbers in pure self defence. 

We have just passed the mouth of the river marked Sawarcana on 
the map; its most common name here is the Moreau, so called from 
an old Frenchman who probably lived on it once® It is a small 
stream, although larger than most others here. The banks of the Mis- 
souri for some miles below are gently ascending hills with round tops, 
and they are covered with short grass, enough, however, to give them a 
very pleasing appearance. The opposite bank is less hilly, but equally 
beautiful, and timber rare on both of them. I do not feel as persons 
generally expect to feel when traveling in a wild country, inhabited 


1#The Captain is John Durack (see Introduction). The other two are Alexander 
Culbertson and Honoré Picotte. 

165 Maximilian noted here ‘‘a pretty river, called Moreau’s River, from a man of that 
name who passed the night here with a Cheyenne Indian woman, who had been taken by 
the Arikkaras and escaped. She stabbed him while he slept, and fled on his horse to her 
own nation.” (Maximilian, 1904-7, vol. 1, pp. 335). On some maps it appeared as Owl 
River. It enters from the right (west) about a dozen miles above the Little Cheyenne. 


890780—52—_7 


90 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BuLL. 147 


only by savages, nor have I so felt at any period of my traveling on 
the prairies, with very few exceptions. The reason of this has fre- 
quently appeared to be the almost entire absence of forests; on the 
prairies, early in the season, one sees large tracts of land covered with 
yellow grass that readily suggests the grain fields of his home; the 
lonely [lovely?] appearance of the prairie as the grass comes up 
reminds one of the green pastures of home, and one almost feels as 
if the farm house was just over the hill. It was hard to realize that 
the beautiful fields we saw to-day were not the fields of a cultivated 
farm. Just where we are the eastern side exhibits an abrupt bank, 
thirty feet high, composed of slate. 

Saturday, June 8—Seven o'clock A. M.—Uast evening I exhibited 
my tabular view of the Sioux nation to Mr. Picotte for examination, 
and he pronounced it to be correct, except that the estimate of souls to 
each loge is too small; he feels sure that eight or ten is the correct 
average for each lodge, and his opinion is worthy of regard.*°° 

When we landed I examined a bluff bank to confirm an opinion I had 
formed that certain flowers seen along the bank were the same as some 
about Fort Pierre, and I found myself correct. Alexander found a 
buffalo skeleton wanting very few of the bones, and, as it was probably, 
the most perfect one that we would find, I determined to bring it on 
board. This morning, very early, we met six Mackinaw boats, be- 
longing to the company, from the Yellowstone, the Blackfeet and 
Crow forts. They had about sixteen-hundred packs, and were under 
the charge of Maj. Hamilton. We had encamped only about two 
miles from them last night. Some of the men went out to hunt yester- 
day, and succeeded in frightening quite a number of elk, but got none. 
They are plenty in the young willows on the sand bars, and along the 
banks. We passed the mouth of the Grand River *°* before breakfast. 
I have just been called out to see the skin of a buffalo calf that is indeed 
a singular thing; It has two separate heads, the bodies being joined 
near the tail; it has six feet and two tails, and has plenty of hair on 


166 See Appendix 1. 

167 “The steamer Robert Campbell arrived yesterday from Council Bluffs, having left 
that point on the first of the present month. She brought with her as passengers Major 
Hamilton, agent of Messrs. P. Chouteau, Jr., & Co., and fifty engages, with the cargoes 
of ten Mackinaw boats, comprising twenty-four [2,400?] packs of buffalo robes, collected 
last winter with the Crow Indians. Major Hamilton and his party left Fort Alexander, 
twenty miles below the mouth of the Big Horn river, on the Yellow Stone, on the 8th 
of May, and Fort Union at the mouth of the Yellow Stone, on the 27th of the same month. 
They met the steamer Hl Paso [see Introduction] on the 8th of June at the mouth of 
Grand River, nine hundred miles below her destination, and the St. Ange [see Appendix 4] 
on the 22d of June seventy miles below the mouth of Vermillion. On account of there 
having been but little snow on the mountains during the last winter, Major Hamilton 
thinks that neither of these boats will be able to return before next spring. He has 
had numerous skirmishes with the Blackfeet Indians during his three years absences and 
has lost two men in them” (Weekly Reveille, July 8, 1850, p. 4273). 

1468 The Grand River enters the Missouri from the west (right) not far below the South 
Dakota-North Dakota Line. 


McDERMorrT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 91 


it. It was taken from a cow in the Blackfeet country. It has been 
used by the Indians for a “medicine,” and is not well enough preserved 
to be taken down. Banks not so steep as yesterday. 

Eleven o’clock.—We have just been landing for wood; the first place 
was at a watering house of one of the traders of this company—he 
furnished us some wood but not enough. We then went about a quar- 
ter of a mile up the river, to a watering house of the opposition, and 
from that still higher to a patch of timber where we hoped to procure 
ash, though elm abounded most; we found ash, box-elder, and sugar 
maple. [?] The trading houses are built of rough logs and are in- 
tended but for one winter; they are built wherever a party of Indians 
happens to locate for the hunting season, and traders are sent out with 
an equipment according to the prospect for robes; they say “an out- 
fit to trade ten, twenty, forty, one-hundred, &c., packs.” Each pack 
contains ten robes. Mr. Picotte told me that about one-hundred thou- 
sand robes would go to St. Louis this season from all the traders in the 
country; that the Indians and others could use or destroy three times 
that number, probably, as each Indian must have two robes for his 
wearing apparel every year, besides those for a new lodge and other 
purposes, so that, by the calculation of an old trader, probably four 
hundred thousand buffalo are destroyed annually. 

Stax o’clock.—We have just taken our tea, and are wooding on the 
east side of the river; the trees appear to have been torn down, or had 
their tops torn off by a hurricane; they are very dry and give us good 
wood. Timber has been more abundant and better to-day than be- 
fore; we got a large lot of ash early in the afternoon. At the landing 
I gathered some violets of a species different from any before seen. 
This has been a pleasant day again, and there is the promise of an- 
other one to-morrow. 

How different does Saturday evening appear here from what it does 
in the east; there one is reminded that the next day will be the Sabbath 
—the day for rest and spiritual enjoyments, and he feels the satisfac- 
tion of having reached another period in his labor. He can stop and 
look back, or he can look forward and feel satisfied : but here, to-mor- 
row will bring the same routine of travel and work. 

Sunday, June 9.—This is another clear and bright morning; we are 
now ploughing our way not many miles below the Cannon Ball river, 
between beautiful banks, covered with fine grass. For the last twenty- 
four hours I have seen but little of that abrupt and very high bluff 
bank of slate and tertiary formation noticed before; the hills have been 


169 Tt is not known how many packs of buffalo robes were brought down the Missouri in 
1850, but Picotte’s estimate was probably not far wrong. The opposition (the Union Fur 
Company—see note 202 and Appendix 3) expected to bring down 4,000 packs (Missouri 
Republican, April 5, 1850). Hamilton’s 2,400 packs (see note 167) represented only part 
of the Chouteau company’s business; if one can judge from the records for other seasons 
the latter company would have had at least twice as much fur as their opposition. 


92 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Buuv. 147 


a little distance from the water and of gentle ascent, and the timber 
has been more abundant. One of the pilots killed a deer last evening. 
This morning I noticed on the west bank, large square blocks of sand- 
stone, projecting in strata eight or ten feet above the water’s edge; 
they appeared for a short distance only. 

Twelve o’clock.—We have just passed the mouth of Cannon Ball 
river; 17° the bank above it is steep bluffs, composed of thick strata of 
sand stone; the opposite bank is gently rolling prairie, until it meets 
the hills about half a mile or a mile back. 

Six o’clock, P. M—The banks this afternoon have been, generally 
level or rolling prairie, sometimes ascending gradually from the 
water’s edge, and in other places, having a perpendicular rise of 
eighteen or twenty feet; these last appear to be alluvial deposite, some- 
times recent, and covered with a thick growth of small timber, and 
again having a growth of large timber, indicating that years had 
elapsed since the soil had been formed. In several places high bluff 
banks rose from the water’s edge, composed principally of sand stone, 
the strata sometimes very much inclined, and at others horizontal. We 
are now just below Apple Creek,!™ and, on each side of the river, nearly 
opposite, are two small hills, entirely bare of vegetation, called the 
Peeled Hills; 1” they seem to be the same formation as those in the 
Bad Lands. 

Monday, June 10—Six o'clock, A. M—We are now, and have been 
for several hours on a sand bar, just at the head of Heart River 
Island; 2% we have been working hard to get off, but we may be here 
all day. This island is covered with a fine growth of cotton wood. 
Last night, after landing, a buffalo bull was killed by some of the men, 
and several others were seen, the first that have been since we left. 
Four men started out immediately after landing to walk nearly all 
night and make a hunt to-day. 

I forgot to notice what I had learned a few days ago of the custom 
of the Indians in the treatment of the aged and infirm. Hodgekiss 
was speaking of a certain young Indian who had been killed in battle 
with the Crows, and said that he had but one fault to find with him; 
that he would beat his old father, and that he had seen him strike the 
old man with a club and leave him almost lifeless. On inquiring if 


170'The Cannonball River enters the Missouri from the west (right) about 40 miles 
below Bismarck, N. Dak. “This river derives its name from the singular regular sand- 
stone balls which are found in its banks, and in those of the Missouri in its vicinity. 
They are of various sizes, from that of a musket ball to that of a large bomb, and lie 
irregularly on the bank...’ (Maximilian, 1904-7, vol. 1, pp. 337-838). 

174 Apple Creek enters the Missouri from the east (left) about 20 miles above the 
Cannonball. 

172 The only point on the Isaac Stevens Map No. 2 that might be identified with Cul- 
bertson’s Peeled Hills is Eagle Butte which lies below Apple Creek and on the opposite 
side of the river. 


73 Heart River enters the Missouri from the west opposite Bismarck, North Dakota. 


McDeeMorT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 93 


such was the custom, I was told that it was, and instances were cited 
by several to show that it was common for the Indians to leave the 
old to perish on the prairies. An instance was mentioned of a blind 
Crow Indian having been taken to a battle in the hope that he might 
be killed—of one very old man having been shut up in some trading 
house and left to perish—of an old squaw having been left in camp to 
die, and, being found by the traders, was kept through the winter; 
in the spring, being sent back to her people, she was put in a small 
boat and cast adrift on the river. A small boy is now at Fort Pierre, 
who was found by a trader and brought in; he had been left to die, 
because he had received a very severe injury in one of his legs, and 
would have been a burden to his friends. I, myself, noticed one day, 
on the arrival of a large band of Blackfeet, that an old man, who was 
said to be one-hundred and four years old, if I am not mistaken, was 
very badly clad, and had a wretched appearance. It seemed as if the 
young men had left him to provide for his own wants. This custom 
of neglect and cruelty to the aged does not necessarily arise from a 
cruel unfeeling disposition; it probably come from two causes—their 
views of a future state and their mode of life. The former leads 
them to suppose that if these aged persons die, they will go to a state 
of happiness and abundance, whereas now they are a burden to them- 
selves and friends; the latter makes it a great trouble to their friends 
to transport them in their frequent changes of abode, and it must be 
impossible for some, in their feebleness, to endure the privations and 
exposure inseparable from such a mode of life.1”4 

Twelve o'clock M.—For the last three hours we have been wind- 
bound just below the mouth of Heart river. I have taken a walk up 
the high bank, and found on its side three new flowers, of which I took 
specimens. I also secured a number of small stones, which I picked 
up on the tops and the sides of the bluffs; the land back of the river is 
rolling prairie, on the opposite shore it is low and covered with timber. 
A little above where the boat is, I noticed that quite a large part of the 
bank had sunk, some of it probably eighty feet, and some of it only 
forty. I approached it in descending from the high bluff beyond, of 
which the sunken portion must have once formed a part; the descent 
was steep but not dangerous, and conducted me to a plot of ground 
which appeared to have been broken off short from the upper part of 
the hill, and sunk about forty feet. The surface was mostly covered 
with grass, and of the same general level, although much divided by 
large cracks running in various directions through it, and at its edge 


1% According to Denig, (1930, p. 485) ‘‘The Indians show great veneration for their 
parents ... but this only continues as long as they are vigorous enough to hunt, travel, 
and follow camp. ... In proportion as age advances, veneration diminishes, and when 
parents become a burden they are left in some encampment with a small supply of pro- 
visions, which being exhausted, they perish.” 


94 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY (BULL. 147 


towards the river, rising irregularly into peaks above the other part. 
This part I examined with some care to find fossils, but saw nothing 
that indicated their presence; a small yellow flower was gathered—the 
only place where it had been seen as yet. The formation in the side of 
the hill so well exposed by this great depression of a part of it was, 
yellow slate. I next descended to the lower part of the sunken land, 
towards the river. Here it was much broken up and descended by ir- 
regular steps to the water level. The same slate formation prevailed 
here as above, and amongst it there was quite an abundance of a crys- 
tal, specimens of which I brought with me. I walked down to the boat 
along the same shore, and noticed that at several places in the very 
high slate bluff, beneath the yellow strata formation, there were strata 
of what appeared to be black slate, but it crumbled to pieces when 
pressed slightly, and had the appearance of charred bark—a piece was 
brought along. ‘The whole extent of this sunken ground was probably 
seventy-five yards long and forty broad. An evidence of its being re- 
cent is that an Indian trail on the hill side may be distinctly traced on 
the surface of the ground below. I noticed here, as at all other points 
along the river, the absence of animals of the snake kind; not a single 
snake has been seen since leaving Fort Pierre, so far as I know, and 
we have been in the thickest bushes, among dead trees, and have torn 
down old houses, but not even a rat has been seen. The young rats 
that I got came from an old tree in the woods. 

Six o’clock P. M.—We have a delightful evening, and have just en- 
joyed one of the most beautiful views yet presented to us; for several 
miles along the west bank there extended a prairie covered with fine 
grass, and rising gradually to low hills at a little distance from the 
water. Timber is more plenty to-day. Game is abundant also; our 
supper table afforded most delicious buffalo steak, antelope steak, and 
elk meat, besides our usual dishes. 

Tuesday, June 11—Seven o'clock, A. M.—I was aroused this morn- 
ing by the firing of guns in rapid succession, and the hurried tramp 
of men on the deck, which indicated that something was going on. 
On rising, I found that seven buffalo had been seen crossing the river, 
and the men had been firing at them. Two were killed by shots, and 
Mr. Picotte killed a third with the axe, cutting his back bone through 
in several places. They had already hauled one on board when I 
got forward, but I saw the drawing up of the others, and some idea 
of their size may be formed, from the fact that ten men, with the 
assistance of rope and pulleys, were scarcely able to get them on deck. 
They were immediately cut up, and, together with our former sup- 
plies, have made us rich in meat—how it would excite an epicure to 
be seated at our table laden as it is with such a variety of game. 


McDErMorrt] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 95 


I was interrupted in writing the above, and did not resume until I 
had finished the job I had undertaken; this was no less than to skin 
and preserve the head of one of the buffalo bulls. The head with the 
skin and flesh on it, was very heavy, as they all are, and it is not 
much lighter after being scraped for preservation. It required sev- 
eral hours constant work to skin this one and prepare it properly, 
and even then I had to leave it unstuffed, as nothing was to be had 
for this operation. I hope, however, that it will reach the east in 
safety, and give my friends some idea of what a buffalo looks like. 
While I was working on this, the boat was aground for a considerable 
time, and had great difficulty in getting through a very bad place. 
We had expected to have reached and passed Fort Clark to-day, but 
will not be able to do so now. The banks have not presented that 
abrupt steepness noticed before, but beautiful slopes, covered with the 
finest pasture, and occasionally a large band of buffalo grazing. 

Six o’clock P. M.—Another lovely evening, beautiful banks, and a 
pleasant breeze, while the boat is in motion. Expect to reach Fort 
Clark to-morrow morning. 


FORT CLARK—REES 


Wednesday, June 12.—Last night we lay at an old Ree village, about 
fifteen miles below Fort Clark. During the night we had a storm, 
which we had been led to expect from the intense heat of the day. 
We had quite a storm of another kind also, although not a dangerous 
one. Three Indians who had been out hunting had seen us during 
the day, and came on board about twelve o’clock. The only injury 
resulting from this visit was that my brother and Mr. Picotte lost 
their sleep, as they had to remain up with them till daylight. I was 
awakened by a very eloquent part of a speech made by one of them, but 
soon fell again into a sound sleep. 

About six o’clock this morning we came in sight of Fort Clark; *% 
it is a small fort, about one-hundred feet in length on each side, and 
stands on the left bank of the Missouri just below the Ree village.’ 
As we came around the bend a number of patches of ground under 
cultivation appeared along the river,’ and a very pleasing view 
was presented by the prairie curving inward for several miles, and 


175 Wort Clark, about 8 miles below the Knife River on the south (right) bank of the 
Missouri, was built in 1831 to replace a fort built in 1822. For important descriptions 
of it and of the surrounding country, see Maximilian, 1904-7, vol. 1, pp. 344 ff.; vol. 2, 
pp. 222-251; vol. 3, pp. 11-83; Audubon and Coues, 1897, vol. 2, pp. 10-50. The most 
important single publication concerning it is Abel, 1932. 

176 Wor the Ree or Arikara Indians consult Hodge, 1907, pp. 83-86; Hayden, 1863, pp. 
351-363 ; Maximilian, 1904-7, vol. 2, pp. 386—395 ; Kurz, 1987 (consult index) ; Chittenden 
and Richardson, 1905 (consult index) ; DeLand, 1906; Will, 1929-30; Abel, 1932; passim. 

177 According to Hayden, the Arikara traded some 500 to 890 bushels of corn annually 
at the Fort; their corn crop ran from 2,000 to 4,000 bushels a year; they also raised 
considerable crops of squash and pumpkins on these farms (Hayden, 1863, pp. 352-354), 


96 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BULL. 147 


the inner bank having the fort and village on it. Our arrival was 
marked by salutes from ship and shore, and as soon as we landed, 
numbers of Indians came aboard. I thought their features were more 
decidedly like those of the English than the features of the Sioux, 
and my ear immediately caught the difference in the language. If I 
could speak either tongue I might explain this difference, but as it 
is, I feel as if an opinion should scarcely be regarded. On first listen- 
ing to the Sioux language, it appeared to me that to characterize it 
as an affectionate language would best describe the impression made 
upon me by its tones; in the Ree language this is not the case; I 
thought that it was pitched on a higher key and had a harsher sound, 
and yet this may not express the true difference. Their features ex- 
press the same variety of expression as I before noticed in the Sioux. 
The Ariccarees, or Rees as they are commonly called, are said to be 
great thieves, pilfering anything they can lay their hands on—they 
are also great beggars like all other tribes. Ifa feast and some pres- 
ents are not given to them, they injure the boat, and perhaps would 
take the lives of some of the traders in the winter season. Therefore 
a feast of coffee and biscuits was given to all who came on board, 
and sugar, coffee, flour, biscuit, tobacco and ammunition were dis- 
tributed amongst them, with all of which they appeared to be well 
satisfied. We were invited into the village, and Mr. Picotte and 
Alexander determined to go; although last year they had served the 
latter in a very treacherous manner. 

One of their chiefs had gone down to Council Bluffs on the com- 
pany’s boat a year before, although much against the will of Mr. 
Picotte, who had paid him not to do so for two years before. But 
on this occasion he would go in spite of all opposition, and was killed 
by the Pawnees. The Rees blamed the company for his death, and 
determined to make them pay for it. On the arrival of the boat 
last year, Alexander was invited to a feast in the village, and went, 
accompanied only by the young man in charge of the fort. He found 
them all in a large hut armed to the teeth, and then first learned that 
dissatisfaction existed among them. ‘They charged him with the mur- 
der of their chief, and in the most threatening manner, demanded 
pay for his blood. My brother was unarmed, and the people in the 
boat knew nothing of what was doing in the village. They had a 
stormy session at the feast, but at length all was settled by his prom- 
ising to pay them two good horses; they then allowed him to depart 
in safety, and at the proper time he sent the horses. Amongst all 
the Indians blood may be paid for, which is a fact, I believe, common 
to all heathen nations. 

To-day four of us went to the village and made a “complimentary 
call,” as we had not time for a feast. We were received in a large 


McDsrMorr] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 97 


mud lodge or hut, built in a circular form, having a diameter of about 
thirty feet. The entrance is through a small projection, correspond- 
ing in design, and somewhat in shape to our small covered porches. 
The lodge was airy, clean and had no unpleasant smell in the inside. 
The gentleman of the house received us politely, placed a mat on the 
ground, then four or five robes, and taking us each by the hand seated 
us on them. Then he ran out, and standing on the top of his house 
invited the people to call and see us. While they were assembling I 
made observations. 

The Rees do not use the skin lodge.”* The one we had entered 
was of their usual fashion, and was built somewhat in this way; a 
circular foundation often thirty feet in diameter, is dug about twelve 
inches deep; in the middle of this a platform about ten feet square 
and twenty feet high, is made by erecting four upright posts, and 
on these are placed four others horizontally ; then around the circular 
foundation are placed a proper number of upright posts, on which 
are again laid horizontal timbers, and against these rest small poles 
set very close together and one end stuck in the ground. These are 
probably five feet in length; then from the horizontal poles to those 
of the square platform in the middle, and beyond them, extend other 
poles laid as close together as possible, and of such a length as to 
form an entire roof, except a hole in the centre for the passage of 
smoke. On the sides and top dirt is thrown, and the house is finished. 
At the entrance a small projection is built of poles, extending prob- 
ably six feet beyond the main wall, and covered; this protects them 
the better from the snow and rain. The external appearance is that 
of a rude cone, set on a base about five feet high, and thirty feet in 
diameter. On entering, you must stoop, but as soon as you pass the 
skin door, your head may again become erect. 

We were conducted to the place of honor, opposite to and facing the 
door. To our right, along the wall, were arranged several bedsteads, 
rudely made, while to the left, a part was cut off by a couple of poles, 
for the accommodation of the horses; the chickens had a coop in one 
corner, but roam at large on most occasions, and the centre is used for a 
fireplace. The lodge was clean, airy, light and comfortable, and there 
was plenty of room for more than those, who I suppose, inhabited it. 
Behind us were hung bows with spears on the ends, and two rude instru- 
ments of music, made of a number of pumpkins.” I believe some- 
thing is put in the inside of them and shaken, but I have not learned the 
modus operandi. There were two squaws present, the elder of whom 
was very polite, the younger one stood back, either because she was the 
younger wife, or perhaps the wife of another man. I was quite pleased 

178 Cf. Hodge, 1907, pp. 410-411; Reid, 1929-30; the latter quotes Thaddeus Culbertson 


among others. 
172 For a summary of Indian musical instruments, see Hodge, 1907, pp. 958-960. 


98 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BuLL. 147 


with both of them. Near the fireplace a small wooden mortar was sunk 
in the ground, for pounding corn. The large and high room appeared 
rather scarce of furniture. I have thus attempted to describe the 
appearance and structure of the lodge in which we were, and this is the 
general appearance of all others. Many persons in the States live in 
much more filth and much less comfort. About twenty of the men 
having assembled, the owner of the lodge gave us the right hand again 
in token of friendship, and made a short speech, which we replied 
to, through an interpreter, and then we left. 

The village is composed of two-hundred lodges, as near as I could 
learn from the interpreter, and is built upon the top of a bluff bank 
rising about seventy-five feet perpendicular from the water. The huts 
are placed very irregularly, sometimes with very narrow, and some- 
times with quite broad spaces between them. A number of platforms 
of poles, as high as the lodges themselves, are interspersed among them 
for the convenience of drying meat and dressing robes. I noticed a 
number of squaws busily employed in dressing robes. J left the village 
much pleased with my visit, and with the politeness with which we had 
been treated. 

On passing to the fort, I observed a great number of hillocks scat- 
tered over the prairie, and these, I was told, are graves, this people 
having abandoned the old method of scaffolding their dead. Other 
more agreeable sights on the prairie also attracted my attention, and 
these were little patches of corn and pumpkins, generally enclosed by a 
slight bush fence. I forgot to mention that over the fire in the lodge 
were two bundles of what appeared to be hay tied up in skins; these, I 
was told, contained grains of corn put up in hay, and hung so as to be 
heated ; if the grains germinate they are planted, and those that do not 
are left out. ‘This corn is small and on small ears, but Mr. Picotte says 
it contains a larger amount of flour than our corn. We spent a short 
time in the fort, and found it to be small and the buildings old, but 
everything very neat and clean. Isaw there a young antelope, which a 
squaw allowed to suck from her breasts; it is said to be quite common 
for squaws to suckle young animals, often raising in this manner cubs 
of the grizzly bear. I have noticed that they often allow their children 
to suckle till much older than with us. I have seen children four or 
five years old taking a good tug at the maternal fount. 

About nine o’clock the boat was off again, having landed all her 
freight, and taken in some Ree corn. The hills opposite the fort and a 
little above it, are steep, irregular and of the whitish clay (tertiary, I 
think,) formation. The tops of several have a light red appearance as 
though they might be of pumice stone, such as I picked up last night at 
the landing. The hill at the village was covered with men, women and 
children, but as the top of it is level, no general view of the village 


McDerMorT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL OY 


could be obtained. This village is one of sad celebrity; in the year 
18[87], it was inhabited by the Mandans, then quite a large tribe, but in 
that year the smallpox passed over the country, and swept off nearly 
the whole nation. Many of them, in despair, seeing all their kindred 
dead or dying from the loathsome disease, cast themselves into the river 
from this high bluff. The small remnant of the Mandans now occupy 
a few lodges about five miles above the village or have been incorpo- 
rated with the Rees and Gros Ventres.*® 

Above the Ree village stretches a fine bottom, on which I was 
pleased to see quite a number of squaws at work putting in their sum- 
mer crop; it reminded me of some of the James river bottoms in 
Virginia. We are just now passing quite a long stretch of high steep 
bluffs on the west shore; formations like that of Ai//s in the Bad 
Lands—strata of a red slate, like half burnt brick, and occasional 
spots of a slate-like substance that looks as if it had just been exposed 
to the fire. Probably these are the appearances that indicate former 
volcanic action. I wished that I could land and search for fossils. 

The Rees offer many advantages for missionary labor. They have 
one fixed place of residence, except for a few months in winter, when 
they go to some other place for wood and meat, but they return again 
to the village at Fort Clark. They cultivate corn not only for their 
own use, but also enough to make it a very prominent part of trade, 
and they are said to be peaceable and generally well disposed. The 
same things are said to be true of the Mandans and Gros Ventres, 
and the old traders say they are more like the whites in their ways 
- than any other Indians. 


FORT BERTHOLD—GROS VENTRES 


Thursday, June 13.°'—Last evening for miles we had on both banks 
principally on the east, the very irregular steep and white colored 
hills mentioned before as being somewhat similar in their material to 
those in the Bad Lands. I notice however that sand was the principal 
component while the white clay occurred in occasional strata only. 


19 Chardon told Audubon that the smallpox was brought to the Mandans and the 
Arikara by the steamer Assiniboin which arrived at Fort Clark in July 1837; the epidemic 
is more commonly credited to the St. Peter. Only 27 Mandans survived, but by 1843 
these had increased to 10 or 12 lodges. Consult Audubon and Coues, 1897, vol. 2, pp. 
42-47; Larpenteur, 1898, vol. 1, pp. 131-135; Jacob Halsey to Pratte, Chouteau and 
Company, Fort Pierre, Nov. 2, 1837, ms. Mo. Hist. Soc.; Chappell, 1905-6a, pp. 290-291 ; 
Chittenden, 1935, vol. 2, pp. 612-620. 

181 The text beginning with June 13 and running through almost all the entry for 
June 18 has been taken from a typescript supplied me by the Montana Historical Society 
of a Thaddeus Culbertson notebook in its possession. This small notebook, written in 
ink, bears the page numbering “260-307” and apparently is the only fragment extant 
of the original notebooks other than the portion owned by the Missouri Historical 
Society. This typescript I have reproduced exactly with two exceptions: first, I have 
moved date and hour lines to the left margin in accordance with form already set 
up for this edition; second, I have occasionally inserted in square brackets a correction 
or an additional word necessary for clarity. 


100 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Butn. 147 


I thought that fossils might be found in them but had no opportunity 
for examination. About. five o’clock one of the pilots brought me 
a very young sand crane which I put in alcohol and I intend preserv- 
ing the skeleton of a large one he gave me as it was not in order to 
skin. About six o’clock A M we reached Fort Berthold, one of the 
company’s forts situated on the east bank of the Missouri about 60 
miles above fort Clark. It is built on a high bluff just on the north 
side of the Gros Vent village.1** It is a small fort and has no par- 
ticular interest about it. Mr. Kipp '** who has it in charge now has 
kept it in good order if we may judge from its neat and cleanly looks. 
The prairie extends beautifully eastward from the village and affords 
fine pasture for their horses. The part near the fort is also their 
burying ground and is studded with a great many scaffolds on which 
the dead are placed and also a great many graves in which they have 
been buried. Many of these scaffolds were partly broken down and had 
deposited their burdens on the ground where they lay unsightly and 
forbidding. <A great number of skulls were kicking; that is being 
kicked about on the ground and had it not been for fear of arousing 
the indians, I could easily have secured six or seven good ones; as it 
was I picked up but one and wrapping it in my coat marched boldly to 
the boat and got it safely in my trunk without any suspicion being 
excited. The village suffers [differs?] nothing in looks from the Ree 
village described yesterday as they use mud lodges also. In one thing 
they differed and that is they are now engaged in picketing their whole 
village. The logs are well prepared and are all up except on the 
west side; a bastion with loop holes is placed in the middle of each 
side. This picket is of course to protect them against their enemies 
who frequently attack them. I think it was said at Fort Pierre that 
the Sioux nation families and all were coming up to war this summer 
and if they are I doubt not that they will go back with a flea in their 


182 Fort Berthold was built in 1845 about 125 miles above Bismarck, N. Dak., and about 
40 miles above the lower Knife River, on the left or north bank of the Missouri (Wilson, 
1902, pp. 359-361). When Palliser reached Fort Berthold, Chardon was in charge 
(Palliser, 1853, pp. 197-208). This fort is mentioned several times in Kurz (19387; 
consult index) ; for something of it in the years after Culbertson’s visit, see Larpenteur, 
1898 (consult index). 

183'The Gros Ventres of the Missouri were Hidatsa or Minitari; they had been removed 
to this neighborhood in 1845 (and the Mandans, too) and Fort Berthold had been 
erected on their account. (Consult Hodge, 1907, pp. 508-549; Maximilian, 1904—7, vol. 
2, pp. 367-385; Kurz, 1937, pp. 73-78 (and consult index under Heransta) ; Hayden, 
1862, pp. 420-424.) 

384 James Kipp, born in Canada in 1788, came to the Upper Missouri in 1822 as agent 
of the Columbia Fur Company and later joined the American Fur Company. He built 
Fort Piegan in the Blackfoot country in 1831; 2 years later Maximilian saw much of him 
at Fort Clark (Maximilian, 1904—7, vol. 2, pp. 221-251, vol. 3, pp. 11-83). Audubon 
knew him at Fort Union in 1843 (Audubon and Coues, 1897, passim). Palliser traveled 
to the northwest overland with Kipp in 1848 (Palliser, 1853, pp. 82 ff.) and in 1851 
Kurz served as clerk to Kipp at Fort Berthold (1937, pp. 73 ff.). He died at Parkville, 
Mo., in 1880. For interesting and informative glimpses of him, consult indexes to Chitten- 
den, 1903; Larpenteur, 1898; Kurz, 1937; McDonnell, 1940; Abel, 1932. 


McDreMmorr] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 101 


ears for they can do nothing with this fort. Between the fort and 
the village stands a log house which belonged to a man that they 
killed there last winter; he had killed an Assiniboine and the Gros 
Vents killed him in revenge. Many of them came on board and had 
their usual feast and presents with which they marched off in great 
glee. One of their chiefs a tall sharp looking man is on board going 
up with us, and also several others, one of whom is a Crow Indian 
with his family. He has been visiting at the village and is the only 
one that escaped from a small hunting party that was cut off by a small 
Sioux war party a few days ago. I noticed nothing peculiar about 
the Gros Vents except that their skin was generally much lighter in 
colour than that previously seen. Some of the squaws were very light 
coloured approaching closely the whites. Their hands and feet ap- 
pear to be unusually small and neat and their teeth were generally 
good and shown very much. They have bright eyes and very cheer- 
ful countenances and bodies generally built slenderly and for ac- 
tivity. Their extensive corn fields show signs of industry covering 
as they do the bottom grounds. I have no doubt that a prudent 
patient missionary instructing them with arts of civilized life would 
be well received. 

8 Y% Oclock P M—We have just passed the mouth of the Little Mis- 
souri River ?®° coming from the South, about 120 miles above Fort 
Clark. Mr. Picotte has just been talking with me and confirms what 
T had previously heard about the abandonment of the aged and infirm 
by the indians. He says that the indians further east on Lakes Su- 
perior and Winipeg are worse than these Missouri indians for it. He 
said in speaking on another subject that since he first knew them in 
1820 the Mandans, Rees and Gros Vents had lost probably 5% of their 
number. Each of them was then a large and flourishing people and 
now the Rees have but one village the Gros Vents one, and the Man- 
dans a very small one. He assigned several reasons for this, and he 
says they are true of every tribe with a fixed place of residence; be- 
cause they remain in one place the wood is all destroyed and they are 
forced to winter out where wood is convenient; because of danger 
from their enemies and the high water in the spring they have to re- 
turn to their villages before winter breaks up and there enter houses 
that have been exposed to the snows of winter and are frozen and 
damp; consequently many—especially of the very young and the old, 
die of colds and of diseases originating in the dampness and cold; 
because they live in villages and in these mud houses they are more 
exposed to the epidemic and again their enemies always know where 
to find them and lurking about kill them when working in their fields. 

18The Little Missouri, after the Yellowstone, is the principal affluent of the Missouri 


in North Dakota. It flows north from the Black Hills halfway through North Dakota 
and then east and north to enter the Missouri nearly 30 miles above Fort Berthold. 


102 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BuLy. 147 


These are the four reasons why he thinks that for years past those 
tribes having fixed habitations have decreased in numbers and besides 
the above nations he cites as instances the Otoes, Omahaws, Pawnees 
and several others. While these have decreased the Sioux, a wander- 
ing people [,] have greatly increased. Their mode of life giving them 
advantages on all the particulars mentioned as being disadvantageous 
for the others——The river has been on the rise for several days and 
I have frequently thought of Prof Henry’s theory that when a stream 
rises it is higher in the middle than at the shores and consequently 
the driftwood floats near the shores, while in falling water the stream 
is lowest in the middle and will therefore carry the driftwood there. 
My observations on two rises in the Misscuri do not confirm that 
theory. I noticed that the drift has always been found in the current 
whether that be near the shore or in the middle and Capt. Durack 1 
confirms that opinion saying that such is the case in rising and falling 
waters—that the drift always floats in the current. This however 
does not conflict with Prof. Henry’s theory as it is true of an ideal 
stream perfectly straight, of a level bottom, even shores and no force 
but gravitation acting, but where the various forces found in every 
stream combine to effect the force of gravitation on the phenomena 
cannot be in accordance with the requirements of its laws considered 
without reference to these foreign forces.—Shores to-day, generally 
ascending, occasionally abrupt and of sand and white clay. 

Friday, June 14th.—We are still in the Big Bend which we entered 
last night and we will not be out of it until we reach the Knife River 
coming in from the north.*** This I take to be the one marked Onion 
Creek on the map. There is also a Knife River below on the south 
side, a very few miles above Fort Clark. The Little Missouri is placed 
wrong on the map, it comes in a few miles below the Big Bend, not 
Above it as there marked. This bend is about ten miles across and 
thirty around. This morning is windy and cloudy. Buffalo are very 
plenty, some hunters out ahead of the boat killed three bulls early this 
morning and we stopped to take in the meat, soon after a small band 
was discovered trying to get up the bank on the west side, having just 
crossed the river. A great many guns were fired and three bulls were 
killed; we took one on board. Shortly afterwards we overtook a large 
band of cows in the middle of the river and had the engines not been 
stopped we would have run them down, but all even the calves escaped 
with a very great fright. The banks thus far on this bend have been 
Mauvaise 'Terre.—This morning we had for snack one of the dainties 
of this country—the milk gut of buffalo roasted on coals; it tastes 
somewhat like our white pudding having in it a substance that when 

#80 Of the El Paso. (See Introduction, pp. 10-14.) 


487 Little Knife River enters the Missouri from the north (left) about 7 miles below 
the White Earth River. 


McDrrMorrT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 103 


cooked has also the appearance of their stuffing.“ Mr. Picotte in 
speaking of the dislike persons in the states have to such things says 
that in the north the dung of the reindeer is eaten and very much 
relished and that he himself has eaten it. It is good because of the 
peculiar weed eaten very much by them and is taken out of them before 
being completely digested. 

Evening. Wave travelled finely today ; river continues rising; banks 
prairies and bad lands; passed Knife River about noon and this 
evening White [Earth] River, about fifty miles from British Do- 
minion and said by some to be the most northern point of the river. 
We will reach Fort Union probably on Sunday—sorry for it. 

Saturday, June 15.—Last night we landed early because of heavy 
clouds in the west threatening a severe storm of wind and rain: It 
rained all night but the storm was by no means as severe as it threatened 
to be. I went out on the prairie as soon as we landed and got several 
new and pretty flowers for the herbarium.—During the morning the 
banks have exhibited frequent signs of former volcanic action, and 
some of the hills have been very high irregular and steep. About 
11 o’clock we stopped to wood and I had the first opportunity to 
examine those hills that have appeared so often exhibiting signs of 
containing fossil remains. As I pushed my way along a buffalo 
path through the bushes I caught a glimpse of the first snake I 
have seen since leaving Fort Pierre; it was hurrying off and got off 
before I could kill it. I next got specimens of several beautiful 
flowers growing on the edge of the woods and on the smal] hills 
at the foot of the large barren ones. One of these was a most beautiful 
and delicate flower, delighting my eye by its delicately colored and 
gracefully curled little petals, and I was exceedingly mortified to find 
this very one withered up when I came to put it away; but I put 
the best one in determined to keep them if I’d not find more. I then 
pressed on to the large hills; they are about sixty feet high, composed 
principally of large strata of sandstone with a perpendicular side 
toward the river. I examined along the side of one of the larger 
hills for fossils but found nothing at all except very small pieces of 
bone. I picked up the specimens of stone marked 36 & 37. At the 
base of the hill I found the large petrified roots of which 387 is a part; 
it was taken from a stump about three feet in diameter—hollow in 
the middle and about six inches thick. Near the whole of the stump, 
rising one foot above the ground still remains, within a few inches 
of it are the remains of another one still larger I should judge. The 


188 Culbertson’s description of this dish is misleading. Boudin was a kind of sausage 
made on the spot; the intestine was stuffed with strips of buffalo meat and boiled or 
roasted. (See McDermott, 1941, pp. 32-33.) 

1899 The White or White Darth River flows almost directly south to enter the Missouri 
just where it heads south for the first time, 


104 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BuLL, 147 


formation is different from that of the Bad Lands of White River. 
A little below the bases of these large hills and between them and the 
river I saw what has excited my curiosity frequently as we came 
along—one of those burnt places that gives a red appearance to the 
earth. Some of the stones in 367 came from this spot; there was 
quite a heap of red colored stone there having every appearance 
of having been under the action of fire. One piece in particular 
about the size of a half bushel measure seemed to have been melted 
to nearly a liquid state and then stuck to-gether. If these red places 
were once volcanoes the country must have been full of them. Coal 
cropped out just at the base of these burnt hills toward the river. 
Large veins of it appeared at least once this morning in one of the 
steep banks right above the water. I asked Mr. Picotte about the 
smoking hills mentioned by Nicollet and he says that he himself has 
seen smoke coming from them for years at a time and that some years 
ago they fell in and since that have not smoked. (Poor fellows they 
must wanta pipe.) They are about fifteen miles below Fort Lookout 
on the east side of the river. 

6 O’clock.—A few hours ago we met a skiff from Fort Union, in 
[which] were Mr. Clark 1°? of the Blackfoot Post, the Crow interpreter 
and two men: They were coming to meet the boat and had left the 
Fort this morning expecting to meet us in several days. Alexander 
and Joe Howard * have just left us to ride to the Fort where they 
will arrive in four or five hours. We have for some time been passing 
along a beautiful prairie and although the day has been very windy, 
the evening is calm and lovely,—the sun set beautifully a few minutes 
ago and it appeared as though I had got beyond the sunset, for it 
appeared to go down behind us almost, probably because our course 
is now southwest. I feel rather sad at the prospect of parting so 
soon with my brother who has been so kind to me. May God bless 
him and his goodness to me one of the humblest followers of Christ. 


199 No list of petrifactions collected by Culbertson was printed with his journal; these 
were no doubt among the specimens discussed by Leidy, 1854. 

191 Culbertson referred apparently to the discussion by Nicollet of the smoking hills or 
“pseudo-voleanoes,’’ as he chose to call them, in his Report, Nicollet, 1845, pp. 39-41. 
See also American Journal of Science, vol. 45, (1843), pp. 154-155. Fort Lookout was 
nearly opposite the mouth of Crow Creek (see footnote 103). 

1922 Malcolm Clark or Clarke was born at Fort Wayne, Ind., the son of Lt. Nathan 
Clark of the U. S. Fifth Infantry. His biographer says that he entered West Point at 
17 (Cullum, 1868, however, does not list him) but was dismissed. He went to Texas to 
serve in the War of Independence there and presently through Capt. John Culbertson he 
received an appointment in the American Fur Company. He went up the Missouri for 
the first time at the age of 24. Until his death in 1869 (he was killed by the Indians) 
he was active in the fur trade. For him, consult Van Cleve, 1876; Clarke, 1896; Lar- 
penteur (Coues, Editor), 1898 (consult index) ; McDonnell, 1940 (consult index). See 
footnote 110, above. 

198 This was probably Joseph Howard, “one of the oldest hands,’’ who guided Larpenteur 
from Fort Lewis to Fort Union in 1846 (Larpenteur, 1898, vol. 2, p. 244). 


McDprMorr] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 105 


FORT UNION—ASSINIBOINES 


Monday, June 17th—Yesterday afternoon at four o’clock the boat 
landed at Fort Union having made the trip of 2,500 miles in thirty-six 
days, 4 hours, the quickest one ever made. We [were] received very 
kindly by the gentlemen of the Post, Mr. E. L. [T.] Denig ™ and Fer- 
dinand Culbertson.’* They showed me quite a good collection of 
stuffed skins made by them for Prof. Baird at the request of my brother. 
This must have cost them a great deal of labor and considerable 
expense and they deserve many thanks from the students of natural 
history for whose benefit they were made. Fort Union is very 
much lke Fort Pierre in its structure and about the same size the prin- 
cipal difference being that here they have stone bastions and a cannon 
mounted above the gate. A room also is built against the wall by the 
gate, in which they used to trade through a small hole about one foot 
square in the wall. Now however they trade at the retail store inside 
of the fort. The Assineboines and the Crees are the people principally 
trading here. The Crees are from the British possessions, and are 
then called Re-nis-te-nas; they visit the Missouri but once a year. 
About six lodges [of Assiniboines 7] are encamped at the opposition 
Fort 7° a few miles below and they were all here when we arrived. 
This occasioned some trouble and has been near making a serious diffi- 
culty as we had two Crow Indians on board, and the Crows and the 
Assiniboines began to war a few days ago. Some of the Assiniboines 
wanted to kill the Crows on Board and the gentlemen here had to pro- 
tect them, by putting one in the Fort and concealing the other in one of 


194 The most elaborate sketch of the life of Denig is that by J. N. B. Hewitt prefacing 
the “Indian Tribes of the Upper Missouri’ (Denig, 1930, pp. 877-386). Edwin Thompson 
Denig, son of Dr. George Denig, was born in McConnellstown, Pa., March 10, 1812 and died 
in 1862 or 1863 in Manitoba, Canada. He entered the Upper Missouri fur trade in 1833. For 
much of interest about him, in addition to his very valuable report on “The Indian Tribes 
of the Upper Missouri,” see Audubon and Coues, 1897; Kurz, 1937; Chittenden and 
Richardson, 1905; McDonnell, 1940. 

1% Werdinand Culbertson (1823-63) was the son of Dr. Samuel Duncan and Nancy Pur- 
viance Culbertson of Chambersburg; he was a first cousin of Alexander and Thaddeus 
Culbertson (Culbertson, 1893, pp. 163-165, 170). 

1% See Fifth Annual Report of the Smithsonian Institution, for 1850, pp. 42, 44. 

197 Fort Union, begun under Kenneth McKenzie in 1829 and completed 4 years later, 
was on the north side of the Missouri about 6144 miles above the mouth of the Yellowstone. 
An excellent description of it written by Denig is included in Audubon and Coues, 1897, 
vol. 2, pp. 180-188. See also Maximilian, 1904-7, vol. 1, pp. 376-393; vol. 2, pp. 11-25, 
188-207; Palliser, 1853, pp. 110-151; consult indexes to Chittenden and Richardson, 
1905; Larpenteur, 1898; Kurz, 1937. 

198 For the Cree Indians (derived from Kristinaux) see Hodge, 1907, pp. 359-362; 
Hayden, 1863, pp. 234-248. Kurz and De Smet both have much to say about these 
Indians. 

199 For the Assiniboin the most important source, of course, is Denig, 1930. Consult also 
Hodge, 1907, pp. 102-105; Hayden, 1863, pp. 379-389; Kurz, 1937, (consult index) ; 
Chittenden and Richardson, 1905 (consult index). When Palliser was at Fort Union 
(in the fall of 1848), he noted one band of Assiniboin on the river 13 miles below the 
Fort and a second about 6 miles above the Fort ‘“‘to the westward” (Palliser, 1853, p. 110). 

200 Kurz located Fort William 5 miles below Fort Union and therefore below the mouth 
of the Yellowstone (1937, p. 119). (See footnote 202.) 


890780—52—_9 


106 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Buuw, 147 


the staterooms. One of the Crows is a great warrior although still a 
young man his name is the Horse Guard * and although not thirty 
years old he has returned from about thirty expeditions, always bring- 
ing back hair (scalps), or horses and getting his party back in safety. 
He is not a full breed but a half breed and has the features of a white 
man. I should not judge him to bea blood thirsty man from his looks, 
but he is very brave and says that if they would let him on the prairie 
he would whip all the Assiniboines here. He has his son a fine looking 
little boy with him. The Assiniboines are the worst dressed and 
meanest looking Indians I have seen but this is partly owing to their 
being in mourning for the young man whom the Crows killed the other 
day. The peace was broken in this way; a war party of the Assini- 
boines attacked some Crows mistaking them for Blackfeet and killed a 
couple; they tried to settle the difficulty but the Crows killed a young 
Assiniboine who had strayed from camp while the negociations [sic] 
were going on and now war is declared fully. Fort Union is situated on 
the east bank of the Missouri about four miles above the mouth of the 
Yellowstone and has a very beautiful prairie running back of it to the 
hills. On the same side just below the mouth of the Yellowstone is 
situated the fort of the opposition company, of which Harvey and Joe 
Picotte are the principal men.*? The Missouri and the Yellowstone 
come to-gether, one from the north and the other from the south and 
neither makes a bend before their junction, so that it would look lke 
the same river did not the currents run in opposite directions after the 
junction of course the stream is very large; just now the Yellowstone is 
the larger, although both of them are very full. The Bell is just ring- 
ing preparatory to a start still higher up the river. We will probably 
go much higher than any other boat has gone. Mr. Denig was so kind 
as to present me with a very fine bow with a valuable quiver and arrows, 
which I will keep as a memento of this trip. 

12 o’clock.—Eight or ten miles above Fort Union on the Missouri; 
country more level than below, and banks well timbered all along; 
hills lower and this makes the impression of a more open country; bad 
lands appear occasionally off the river and in perpendicular banks 
from the water. 


201 Mor more about this Crow chief, see McDonnell, 1940, pp. 113, 176, 186, 287. 

2022 The “opposition” in this period was Harvey, Primeau, and Company (the St. Louis 
Fur Company or Union Fur Company) organized in 1846 (with the financial backing 
of Robert Campbell of Saint Louis) by Alexander Harvey, Charles Primeau, Joseph 
Picotte, and A. R. Bouis, who had all once been employees of the American Fur Company. 
For it, see Larpenteur, 1898, vol. 1, pp. 227, and passim; McDonnell, 1940, p. 265. 

For Alexander Harvey (1807-54) consult Chittenden, 1935, vol. 2, pp. 683-688; 
McDonnell, op. cit., pp. 302-305, and passim; Kurz said that he was bourgeois at Fort 
William in 1850 (1937, p. 240). (See also Appendix 3, below.) 

Joe Picotte was a nephew of Honoré Picotte (see footnote 162) ; Kurz gives us a good 
deal of information about him as well as many glimpses of friendly contacts and business 
rivalry between the posts in 1851-52 (Kurz, 1937, pp. 119, 126-127, 197-198, 2138, 234, 
246, 248, 254, 314-315). He died in 1868. Consult also McDonnell, op. cit., (index). 


Se CULBERTSON JOURNAL 107 


one o’clock.—We are now passing a most lovely and level little prai- 
rie on the west bank, it is covered with fine grass and has the appear- 
ance of the most lovely meadow. 

Hills to the north a mile off—light clay intermixed with white 
earth—rolling prairie probably beyond. 

At the point in the first great bend above the Fort—about ten miles— 
point well timbered. Channel 7 to 9 feet deep. Grass backward 
here—the yellow dried grass still gives its color to the plains although 
the new grass is coming on, this has been observed for several days 
past. The Little Muddy Creek (Bu-Bus)?" comes in from the south 
opposite the extremity of this point—a very small stream about ten 
yards wide. 

We are now passing out of the Big Bend about 14 a mile across and 
6 or 8 around. Ten or twelve antelope were grazing quietly on the 
beautiful prairie but they soon scampered up the hill after they got a 
look and a smell of the boat. Some one shot at wild goose, this is the 
third time that they have been seen on this bend, and they have each 
time been in pairs, and have young ones; these appear to be younger 
than those seen lower down. Saw a beaver this afternoon. 

One half mile above the bend—south side—seam of coal in bank, 
fifty feet perpendicular—sandstone formation—appearance of the 
action of fire on the tops of several hills, stones being of a red brick- 
like color. Just passing a place where there are high hills on both 
sides, those on the south are off from the river and those on the north 
are close to the water; high, steep and have much of the red burnt clay 
in them; wood plenty. 

Four o’clock.—We are now opposite a spot on the north shore where 
the burnt lke earth assumes forms nearest like that of a crater, than 
any other place that I have seen. That is they exhibit quite distinctly 
the remaining half or smaller part of a crater; the wall like appear- 
ance and the circular form may be easily traced. These appearances 
have been continually seen to-day when the hills have been near the 
shore, coal also appears very often. I do not pronounce them to be the 
craters of old volcanoes, but simply wish to convey an idea of the 
appearance of the places—red like the remains of an old brick kiln 
and the remains of a circular form in this case mostly they have been 
on the even sides of the hills, the other part may have slid away. Coal 
here appears in one strata about two feet thick. The hills are formed 
of a soft sandstone and give no sign of lava, except in the part burned. 
Opposite this is a fine bottom but the hills beyond exhibit a similar ap- 
pearance to these. 

Five o’clock.—We are now wooding on a point on the south side 
where we have the greatest abundance of dry wood. I found here 


208 Another Culbertson rendering of French: Bourbeuse was what he had heard this stream 
called. (See footnote 204.) 


108 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BULL 147 


the first roses that I have seen—indeed the very first buds—for below 
this was no sign of a rose coming out. The evidence of the action of 
fire still continues in the greatest abundance on both sides. 

I was told that the white colored earth composing these hills will be- 
come of a red color when heat is applied. A fact that seems incon- 
sistent, with the supposition that fire has been at work here is that 
these red places do not extend deep into the earth but are rarely more 
than 5 or 6 feet deep and below them appear the light colored earth 
which shows no signs of having been exposed to fire. 

64% o’clock.—A little below the Big Muddy River a change takes 
place in the appearance of these hills, on the north they leave the river 
and a broad bottom intervenes; the hills ascend gradually and are 
covered with grass. On the south the change is similar but not so 
great. 

We are encamped just above the mouth of Big Muddy River * about 
50 or 60 miles from Fort Union. There isa long and wide prairie here. 
This river is probably the one marked [Ibex?] on the map as I can 
learn nothing of such a river from those knowing the country. 

Tuesday, June 18th.—This morning the appearance of the country 
about as last evening. Prairie to the north and hills to the south, hills 
with short grass showing occasionally and white earth. The mack- 
inaw in tow was sunk this morning by the boat taking a sheer and 
running against the shore. Some hunters sent out last night have 
just come in and I have been so fortunate as to get an Elk calf taken 
from the mother and an elk bone some weeks in the velvet, both of 
which are in alcohol. I again experienced the kind liberality of Mr. 
Picotte who gave me alcohol without which it would have been impos- 
sible to keep them as my supply was almost entirely gone before I 
reached Fort Pierre. It is not the pecuniary value of the alcohol that 
makes this so great a favor but the impossibility of getting any more 
for a year. ' 

10 o’clock.—Country continues more even than yesterday, some 
fine prairie, good timber, just now passing some hills on the south side 
where big horn are plenty. These hills are not so high as those seen 
yesterday. These hills become very irregular—covered with irregular 
and round sandstone—perpendicular from the water—swallows have 
built their nests in the side. They are smaller than those in the 
states.—Hill with large thick layers of sandstone—then a little up- 
stream slate appears, no sign of coal or of the red lands so frequent 
yesterday. ELK HORN PRAIRIE 


2 o’clock.—I have just returned from a short excursion to Elk Horn 
prairie about 80 miles from the Fort, the object of attraction was the 
20¢' The Big Muddy enters the Missouri from the north a few miles above the present 


town of Culbertson, Mont. Judging from Wm. Clark’s map, the Ibex would be the Little 
Muddy (footnote 203) rather than the Big Muddy. 


McDERMOTT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 109 


pile of elk horns on this prairie. The boat stopped and [let] us out 
about 1% a mile from the pile, when Mr. Clark, Picotte, Culbertson and 
myself with 25 or 80 men started for the horns; some ran ahead and by 
the time I got there one fellow had already mounted and was handing 
down the horns. The report was that all the horns were attached to 
the head and that the pile was of a wonderful size. The distant view 
of it, for it was seen like a white monument several miles off, tended to 
confirm these reports and I thought that here at least there had been no 
exaggeration. However on close examination I thought it to be no 
more than fifteen feet high and 20 or 25 in circumference, but even this 
was wonderful pile to be made exclusively of elk horns. There was 
not a single head there but the horns were piled close together to that 
height and as there were no heads they were probably all horns that 
had been shed.?® 

What a great number of Elk must have been there to have furnished 
such a number of horns. As to its origin no certain information can 
be gained. Old traders say it has been there to their knowledge 
twenty years and how much longer they can’t tell as old Indians say 
they are ignorant of the time or the occasion of its being made. There 
were originally two piles but for several years past these two have 
been put into one. The prairie is from two to six or ten miles wide 
and on the south side many miles long. It is further remarkable for 
being the place where the steamer Assiniboine belonging to the com- 
pany wintered several years ago. She had got this far up and could 
not get down again because of low water. In the spring she passed 
down again and was burnt intentionally it was said, below the Man- 
dans.2% ‘Therefore, we are now higher up the Missouri than any other 


205 Maximilian saw this tower of elk horns on July 11, 1833: “The prairie . . . is called 
Prairie a la Corne de Cerf, because the wandering Indians have here erected a pyramid 
of elks’ horns. .. . About 800 paces from the river, the hunting or war parties of the 
Blackfoot Indians have gradually piled up a quantity of elks’ horns till they have formed 
a pyramid 16 or 18 feet high, and 12 or 15 feet in diameter. Every Indian who passes 
by makes a point of contributing his part ... and often the strength of the hunting 
party is marked, with red strokes, on the horns they have added to the heap. All 
these horns, of which there are certainly more than 1,000, are piled up, confusedly 
mixed together, and so wedged in, that we found some trouble in extricating, from the 
pyramid, a large one, with fourteen antlers, which we brought away with us.” (Maxi- 
milian, 1904-7, vol. 2, pp. 34-35). Bodmer made a sketch of the mound. De Smet 
made note of the mound October 6, 1846 (Chittenden and Richardson, 1905, vol. 2, pp. 
603-604). Denig (1930, p. 398), evidently writing before its removal, said this mound 
about 50 miles above the mouth of the Yellowstone covered an acre of ground and rose 
to about 30 feet; he said that it had been raised ‘“‘previous to the knowledge or even 
tradition of any tribe now living in these parts.’’ Elk Horn Creek enters the Missouri 
from the south about 25 miles above the Big Muddy. (See also footnote 221, below.) 

206 In one place Chittenden declares that the Assiniboine went above Fort Union in 1833 
and was caught by low water and forced to remain there all winter, but later he gives 
1834 as the date and says that the steamer reached the Poplar River, 100 miles above 
the Yellowstone (1903, vol. 1, pp. 189, 218). Chappell gives 1832 as the date for the 
launching of the Assiniboine, Pratt[e] for its captain, and June 1, 1835, for the burning 
of the boat near Bismarck (1905-6 b, p. 298). Maximilian traveled on the Assiniboine 
from Fort Pierre to Fort Union in June 18383. 


110 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Bune 147 


boat has ever been. The country continues to be less hilly than 
yesterday. I got several flowers as mementoes of Elk Horn Prairie. 

4 o’clock—We are now aground opposite the Riviére aux Trembles 
coming in from the north 175 miles from the Fort.*” This river is 
larger than any we have seen before. About an hour ago we struck 
the first sand-bar since leaving the Fort but we were off again in a 
moment and we will be off here very soon; no snags have been seen 
except very close to shore. None of the high irregular hills have 
appeared this afternoon but some of the widest rolling prairies 1 
have ever seen, on the north side. The English name is Quaking Ash 
creek. Nearly opposite a little above is the mouth of a stream that 
appears to be quite large and which runs very near the Elk Horn 
Prairie and is known by the name of the Dry Fork. It is quite large 
at the mouth owing probably to the backwater of the Missouri. 
Saline deposits in the south bank. The Quaking Ash River is prob- 
ably the Martha’s River of the map: the traders knowd no stream by 
that name.” 

7 o’clock.—We have just had some rare sport; a half hour ago a large 
band of elk 15 in number appeared on a bar above us. Soon as they 
saw the boat they took the river and swam across but poor fellows; 
they became alarmed and instead of landing gathered in a circle 
and remained in the water swimming. As the boat approached them 
nearly every man prepared to give them a warm salute and they re- 
mained quietly to receive it. 

First, pop went one gun and then another, and another, and crack 
crack, was heard for fifteen or twenty minutes, amidst shouts of the 
greatest excitement, while the elk started for the other shore, the 
blood spouting from most of them—one would lag behind, and then 
another and down stream they would float wrong side up. Cap- 
tain Bryuly,”° the second pilot, took long aim at one, and I thought 
he had missed, but in a moment up went the poor fellow’s heels in the 
air, and he made a grand flourish in the water, but at last was obliged 
to give up the ghost. Meanwhile, old Mr. Picotte was off in the 
yawl, sword in hand, after the wounded and to bring in the dead. 
The sight was most exciting and amusing; the old man sat straddling 
the bow of the boat, coat off, flourishing his sword, ready to plunge 
it into the first elk he could reach. One poor animal wounded in the 


207 Poplar River, which enters the Missouri from the north at the town of Poplar, Mont. 
He means, of course, larger than any other seen since the Yellowstone. This was Lewis 
and Clark’s and Maximilian’s Porcupine River. In the printed journal this distance is 
given as 90 rather than 175 miles. 

28 Little Dry Creek enters the Missouri from the south some 10 or 15 miles west of 
Elk Horn Creek. Judging from Wm. Clark’s map, Little Dry Creek and Lewis and Clark’s 
Two Thousand Mile Creek must be the same. 

29 Maximilian noted the Riviére aux Trembles which he said was also called Martha’s 
River by Lewis and Clark, but he was evidently at the Big Muddy when he used these 
names because he was still some distance below the Elk Horn Prairie. Clark’s map 
Shows Martha’s River to be the same as Big Muddy. 

210'T. H. Brierly. (See Introduction, p. 11.) 


McD=rMorrT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL Tsial 


back was struggling to get away, and after him they put; stick went 
the sword, but in it would not go; the old gentleman had not exam- 
ined the point, and on trial, it was found dull as a beetle. But he was 
too old a hunter to be foiled in this way, and the bow of the boat 
was again turned to the elk; now they are on it and Mr. Picotte 
seizes it by the tail, pushing his small knife up to the handle in its side. 
The elk kicked and scuffled, but it was of no avail, and soon *" was 
on the deck and its hide unshipped, as one of the men called the opera- 
tion of skinning. Meanwhile, a fine doe had been skinned and cut up 
on the forward deck, and the same operation was being performed 
on the stern, so that now three fine elk were on the boat. The yawl 
again went after another one, and returned with the only buck I 
noticed in the band, so that we got four; three others were killed, 
but were carried off by the current, and my own impression is that all 
the others were wounded. The horns of the buck were in the velvet 
state, but were very much injured. I shall get two or three skulls. 

Encamped at the side of a very extensive and level prairie to the 
north side eleven points from Milk River—cloudy and signs of rain. 

Wednesday, June 19—Siz o’clock.—The sun arose clear this morn- 
ing but now it is a little hazy. We are all still pushing up stream; 
face of the country is rather more even; low hills on both sides gener- 
ally off from the river. 

Ten o’clock.—Had a long talk this morning with Mr. Clark on the 
subject of Indian customs. I was surprised to hear what he told me 
of the language of signs used by nearly all the tribes except the Sioux 
and Assiniboines. It must be as perfect and expressive as the lan- 
guage of mutes with us; by these signs one Indian can tell another 
the principal events of his whole life and will be perfectly understood. 
And this does not come from the barrenness of their own language for 
it is sufficiently expressive, but Mr. Clark thinks it to have originated 
principally from the fact of the Indians not knowing when they meet 
a man, whether he be a friend or an enemy; they do not know whether 
to let him approach or not and by these signs he can learn all about him, 
though he be too far off to converse with the tongue. It is therefore 
the language of caution and defence. These signs are beautiful and 
poetic; the rude figures which we see sometimes on buffaloe robes are 
not mere awkward attempts at ornament, but they are hieroglyphics, 
as easily read by an intelligent Indian as words by us, and perhaps 
containing a whole history of some great event.” 

The Blackfeet do not place their dead on scaffolds but either in a 
hole well covered to keep off the wolves, or they leave them in the 
lodge with everything just as it is when they die. In that case the 


211 Here ends the passage contained in the Montana Historical Society notebook. 

22 For a summary of signals and sign language, see Hodge, 1910, pp. 565-568; and of 
pictographs, ibid., pp. 242-245. For a glossary of sign language on the Upper Missouri, 
see Maximilian, 1904-7, vol. 3, pp. 300-312. 


112 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Buuu, 147 


wolves of course eat their bodies very soon; and I am told that in this 
way the body of nearly every Blackfoot is disposed of. When one of 
them is in mourning he puts white earth on his head and goes out 
before his lodge wailing most piteously; as soon as the neighbors see 
that they all rush to his lodge and take it and everything it contains, 
leaving him nothing but his horse. The death of a relation is there- 
fore a very serious affair, since a man loses all his property as well as 
his friend. How different with us—where a man frequently gains 
property with the death of a relative. 

A Blackfoot has complete power over his wife; if he finds her un- 
faithful, he generally cuts her nose off, but he can shoot her down if 
he chooses to do so, and it is said that it is very common to see good 
looking young women going about noseless. If a man loves his wife 
and wishes to overlook any indiscretion of this kind, her own brother 
may walk into the lodge and say “it is only to-day that you have made 
me ashamed,” and shoot her dead before her husband’s face, while he 
can say not a word. The Blackfeet are taught to beg from their in- 
fancy and are adepts in the art. 

Six o’clock.—We have just started, after the longest detention we 
have had except for business; we reached this point about twelve 
o’clock, and have been here ever since fixing one of the wheels. How- 
ever, the time was not lost, for the hands have cut enough of wood to 
take us down to the Fort, and will not have to detain for that purpose 
after we have unloaded. 

Milk river is said to be about twenty-five miles distant, but we would 
have reached it to-day, had we not been detained long. The face of 
the country to-day has been generally rolling prairies, frequently 
stretching many miles from the river. About eleven o’clock we passed 
the outlet of a lake or pond a short distance to the north of the river. 
In twenty-four hours we shall probably have our face turned home- 
wards, when I shall hurrah for the States. 

We have just passed the outlet of a lake which, according to one 
account is the same as that mentioned this morning; but according 
to another, it belongs to a different lake—if there be but one, it must 
be ten or twelve miles long. A part of it could be seen when we 
reached the end of the wood, and it is narrow like a creek and winds 
considerably. The woods are known as the places where the free 
men, (those not in the employ of the company,) built themselves a 
fort, and the lake is sometimes called Freemens’ lake from that cir- 
cumstance.”* 

This lake is in one of the most magnificent prairies I have seen; 
we are still opposite it, and it sweeps away for miles, at first very 

213 Wreemen’s Lake probably was an oxbow lake; available maps do not show it. Cul- 


bertson’s location placed it about midway between Poplar River and Milk River. The 
name undoubtedly was a translation of ‘hommes-libres” (cf. McDermott, 1941, p. 88). 


McDEEMorTT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 113 


level and then terminating in hills, gradually rising and covered with 
grass. To the south a fine prospect is also seen, but then the hills 
rise from the river and in the distance black spots show that buffalo 
are there. The bute at Milk river is now easily seen.7* Just passed 
a small stream called the Little river, coming in from the south, 
marked but not named on the map. 

Thursday, June 20—Eight o’clock.—This morning we were off as 
usual, about half-past three o’clock; soon afterwards passed a small 
stream on the south, generally called Dry Fork, though at present 
it contains water. At half-past seven o’clock we passed Porcupine 
river coming in from the north; it is about twenty yards wide, no 
wood at the mouth, and as far as we could see, very little along its 
banks. It comes in at the upper end of Porcupine cut off, sometimes 
called Harvey’s cut off.2> During all this morning we have a con- 
tinuation of the prairie country seen yesterday, especially on the 
north side there has been beautiful rolling prairie all along excepting 
occasional timbered points; to the south low and scantily herbaged 
hills have run close to the river. 

This Porcupine river is the place from which the military expe- 
dition under the command of General Atkinson in 1825, turned 
back.2* He wintered at Old Council Bluffs, and in the spring as- 
cended with nine keel boats. A part of his company went by land 
as far as Milk river. The object of the expedition was to treat with 
the Indians. The river to-day is still in a good stage, but we have 
had to cross frequently to keep the channel. 

There is always plenty of water here, say those familiar with the 
place, but the only trouble is to find the channel. The boat is now light 
and has passed over some places where only two and a half feet of 
water was sounded; rather hard scratching however. 

A large band of buffalo cows with their calves were crossing just 
above the mouth of the Porcupine, but Mr. Picotte would not allow 
the men to shoot; we passed very close to them all and it was amusing 
and touching too, to see the very great fear they exhibited as they in 
vain struggled to get up the steep bank. I noticed here for the first 
time, what I had been told before, that the buffalo grunt almost exactly 
like a large hog; had a person heard and not seen he could easily have 


214 The butte to which Culbertson refers was probably Panther Hill. 

215 Harvey’s Cut-off no doubt was named for Alexander Harvey, but it is not indicated 
on available maps. (For Porcupine River, see footnote 216.) 

216 Wor this expedition, see Reid and Gannon, 1929-30. On August 24, 1825, when it 
turned back, the Atkinson party had reached a point 7 miles above Lewis and Clark’s 
Two Thousand Mile Creek (Culbertson’s Little Dry Creek—now Red Water Creek entering 
the Missouri opposite Poplar, Mont.). Culbertson has confused two streams: he was 
off Porcupine (Poplar) River on Tuesday, June 18, at 4 p. m.; on Thursday, June 20, 
at 7:30 a. m., he said they passed Porcupine River. Obviously the last named must be 
one of those unnamed rivers shown on the Stevens map between the Poplar and the Milk 
Rivers. The Hl Paso at this moment was between 25 and 50 miles beyond the farthest 
point reached by the Atkinson expedition. 


114 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Buny. 147 


thought that a drove of swine was passing. The men tried to catch 
some calves with a lasso but did not succeed. Buffalo have been seen 
in great bands for several days past; last evening probably five-hun- 
dred were in sight at one time on the river banks. I have seen paths 
beaten by them which look like travelled roads in a thickly settled 
country, and paths of this kind are seen at almost every landing. 


MILK RIVER—RETURN TO ST. LOUIS 


Twelve o’clock.—We are now on the point immediately above Milk 
river and will go a short distance higher up to find good timber for 
building a boat. Milk River *** comes in from the north, and is at least 
two hundred miles above Fort Union. Mr. Clark says that it passes 
within a hard day’s ride—about forty miles— of Fort Benton,”® and 
if so it must be incorrectly laid down on the map. Some miles below 
I saw the first grizzly bear of the season; this is unusual as they are 
generally seen below Fort Union; and Kelly, an old hunter, told me 
that the reason they are not seen on the river now, is that they are out 
on the prairies after the pomolanche”® or prairie turnip, of which 
they are very fond. 

We passed a few hours ago some black slate hills on the south side 
rising directly from the water; the sides in several places were marked 
by the buffalo tracks so as almost to resemble slate roads, and to cause 
one to feel as though he was in a much traveled country. 

The boat has been about twenty-seven hundred miles above St. Louis, 
and a board was nailed on a large cotton wood tree near the shore, 
with the following inscription: “N. B. E] Paso, landed here June 20, 
1850, thirty-five days from St. Louis—John Durack, Captain.” 
The thirty-five days is the running time. This day at twelve o’clock, 
we were forty days out from St. Louis. I really feel very thankful 
that my life and health have been spared me during this journey. I 
have reached a point to which few, except traders have attained, and 
I hope that I have gained some valuable information as well as re- 
stored my health. But it is a long distance, nearly four thousand 
miles to my home, and no one can tell what may befall me, but my 
duty is clear and I hesitate not to go even at the risk of the cholera. 
Should it please Divine Providence to restore me to my home and my 


717 Milk River was so called, said Maximilian, “because its waters are generally muddy 
and mixed with sand” (1904-7, vol. 2, p. 46). ‘We salute the Milk river, which owes its 
name to the whiteness of the water it pours into the Missouri. Proud of a tribute as 
rich as it is beautiful, for it is the biggest received above the Yellowstone, the river 
widens, and as the neighboring mountains lower in the same proportion, the whole 
picture gains something in the way of majesty” (Point, 1931, p. 251). 

218 Wort Benton was built by Alexander Culbertson in 1846 on the north bank of the 
Missouri above Marias River and about 7 miles below the old Fort Lewis; for it, see Lar- 
penteur, 1898, passim ; McDonnell, 1940. 

219 Pomme blanche ; cf. McDermott, 1941, p. 124. 

20 Introduction, p. 18. El Paso Point as marked on the Stevens Map No. 2 would 
be some 15 to 18 miles above the mouth of Milk River. 


McDzRMorr] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 115 


studies, it is my sincere prayer that it may be to employ my powers 
and my knowledge as a minister of the Gospel. 

Huzza for home! MHere we are driving at half past three o’clock 
down stream as fast as steam will let us. Our shouts of farewell have 
hardly ceased to ring in these old hills that so seldom resound with the 
voice of whites, and now for the first time have heard the puff of a 
steamboat. We stopped at twelve o’clock several miles above Milk 
River on the southern bank, landed all the freights for Fort Benton 
and have turned our face homeward. It was a picturesque scene as 
we rounded to, all hands on the hurricane deck—the crew singing one 
of their peculiar songs—the cannon firing and ourselves giving three 
good hearty cheers, while the shore with its green carpet was covered 
with merchandize—the different families bivouacking under the scat- 
tered and venerable trees, and the men who were bound for the Black- 
feet, returning our cheers and salute with hearty good will. 

Friday, June 21—Siz o'clock A. M—We are now perhaps, half way 
back to Fort Union, and if we meet with no misfortune, shall probably 
be there early this evening. The day is clear and pleasant and we are 
having a delightful ride. 

Light o’clock.—We are now stopping at the prairie on which is the 
large pile of elk horns mentioned a day or two ago. Old Mr. Picotte 
has the notion into his head, of taking the whole pile to St. Louis, and 
soon this noted, and almost revered land mark will be on the hurricane 
deck of the El Paso. All on board, excepting the old gentleman him- 
self, would prefer to leave it untouched, especially as the horns are 
not in good state of preservation.”* The river is falling and we shall 
have no time to lose. 

Adopted relations among the Blackfeet are very frequent and of 
the most sacred character; two young men become comrades, and then 
they are friends by the closest ties, and it is a greater disgrace for a 
comrade to lose his friend in battle or [for] want of bravery or skill, 
than to lose a younger brother. Whenever they are together for any 
time, they exchange presents. 

The mere glimpse J have gained of Indian customs, convinces me 
that to acquire any philosophical and valuable knowledge of them, a 
person must live with them for atime. From such men as Mr. Picotte, 


21 De Smet placed the Elkhorn Prairie 17 miles below the Judith, a location which 
hardly agrees with Culbertson’s, for the latter did not go that far up the Missouri ; however, 
De Smet had in mind the incident related by Culbertson: “A tower had been constructed 
here, composed exclusively of elks’ antlers; it was of remarkable height. Its base formed 
a great square. ... The most ancient of the Assiniboins (it is on their land) could 
not give me any account, either of the epoch or of the circumstances which gave rise 
to the erection of this unique monument. The cupidity of a modern vandal has caused 
the demolition of this strange, savage structure, which had resisted all the tempests, 
windstorms, stern winters and other vagaries of the atmosphere of this strange region. 
He took his capture to St. Louis and sold it, and there the antlers were transformed into 
handles for knives, forks and daggers.” (Chittenden and Richardson, 1905, vol. 4, pp. 
1371-1372). (See footnote 205.) 


116 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Buuy, 147 


Mr. Meldrum,” Mr. Clark and my brother, he may gain a great deal 
of information, but no questioning can place him in possession of all 
the facts, because he does not know what to ask, and if he did, these 
men not being accustomed to definitely communicate their knowledge, 
often so speak as to convey an exaggerated impression without any 
design to deceive. Constantly customs of which I had no idea, are 
mentioned in conversation, so that it is my opinion that in order to a 
proper appreciation of the Indian, a long residence among them is 
necessary. 

Friday, Six o’clock, P. M—Arrived at Fort Union again about four 
o’clock having had a most delightful trip to Milk River. The river 
has been falling, but as the weather is again oppressively hot, we look 
for more water, although there is still plenty to run down on. We 
shall be off early in the morning, and I feel glad to move on homeward 
as fast as possible; nothing could induce me to live here. I feel sad 
at heart to part with my brother, and I know that I shall be lonely to- 
morrow without him. May all his kindness be returned to him ten- 
fold. 

Saturday, June 22.—The boat moved from Fort Union across the 
river for wood about half past three o’clock, and about that time we 
had a very fine shower of rain. At half past seven o’clock we moved 
off, firing a salute to the men belonging to the fort who had come over 
to help us take in fuel, Alexander was with them and the last sight 
1 had of him he was standing up in the boat which was just pushing 
off.223 

We have not made a very good run to-day because of the wind being 
against us this afternoon and the wood has been bad. <A good deal 
of bad land appears on both sides of the river, and much of the burnt 
earth with it; this often appeared on the sides of grass-covered hills, 
and in hills rising directly from the prairie, as well as in its usual 
position in the white land hills. 

While it is difficult for one not skilled in such matters to refute the 
common belief that the red burnt-like earth is the result of the action 
of fire, it is well to mention some circumstances that at least throw 
some improbability on that theory ; the first is that if these red looking 
places were craters, the whole bank of the river must have been vol- 
canoes for hundreds of miles, with few exceptions—they occur in al- 
most unbroken connection for miles, and above Fort Union there is 
one place where they thus appear almost continually for twenty or 
thirty miles, being there much more frequent than lower down. An- 


222 Robert Meldrum (1806-65) was in the service of the American Fur Company at least 
as early as 1835. Kurz knew him as bourgeois at Fort Alexander in 1851 (1937, p. 205). 
(Consult McDonnell, 1940, pp. 284-285, and passim.) 

231t was indeed farewell to Alex, for Thaddeus was dead before Alexander returned 
down river. 


McDrrMort] CULBERTSON JOURNAL Ll 


other is, that so far as I can see, these hills exhibit no other evidence 
of the action of fire; there is not a single sign of volcanic action that 
J have seen around these places, either in the formations of the hills 
or in the stones on their surface. 

And again what appeared to me very singular on the supposition 
of volcanic action, has been that these crater remains, or volcanic re- 
mains do not extend deep into the earth; in some places they look no 
deeper than a modern lime-kiln; in others they appear almost as a 
stratum placed in between the other formations, and in all they have 
other formations below them, and in many above them. I regret very 
much that I cannot describe the geological formation of these hills. 

Monday, June 24.—Yesterday we passed Fort Berthold, the Gros 
Ventre Fort, and came within fifteen miles of Fort Clark, the Ree Fort 
at the old Mandan village. On the map there is a Fort Mandan 
marked nearly opposite Fort Clark; this is probably the Fort built 
by Lewis and Clark for their quarters, when they wintered with the 
Mandans.** I noticed yesterday a thick vein of coal in the bluff on 
which the Gros Ventre village is built. 

Tuesday, June 25.—This is one of the few rainy days we have had, 
but is not uncomfortable, as we are well protected in the cabin and at 
the same time are moving along slowly towards home. There has 
been a good deal of detention from running on sand bars, and in look- 
ing for the channel. A few hours ago we passed Heart river, and at 
the place where we were aground so long when going up we stuck 
again, injuring one of the wheels. 

Thursday, June 27.—Yesterday was nothing more than a bright 
pleasant day, passed in grounding, backing, wooding and going a 
few miles a-head. The night previous, we had landed at a place that 
ought to be called Musquito hollow, if we may judge from the com- 
plaints made by every one. I never suffered so much from them, and 
could not get to sleep until past midnight; others were forced from 
below to the hurricane deck, and there passed the night as best they 
could. The day was marked by another event also worthy of record— 
the death of my porcupine. I had the skeleton preserved. 

In the evening when we landed, Mr. Picotte was seen running up a 
very steep, high bluff, and while we were admiring his activity he 
called to us; we all at once started off, supposing he had seen game. 
Mr. Clark taking his rifle, and Ferd his knife; but on coming up to 
him we were much amused to hear the old man instead of pointing out 
the game, ask us to slide down the hill to the water’s edge. Fortune 
favored me at this place, for as we descended the hill, I saw for the first 
time in my life, the cactus in bloom. It was a most agreeable surprise 

24 Wort Mandan, of Lewis and Clark, was on the left bank about 8 miles below the 


mouth of the Knife River; Fort Clark of Culbertson’s day was on the right (west) bank 
a few miles lower, 


118 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BuLL, 147 


to find this unsightly plant which is the great annoyance of moccasined 
voyageurs adorned with flowers of a fine straw color. I secured sev- 
eral of them although none appeared to be in full bloom; how to 
preserve them is a great difficulty with me, for so much of the fleshy 
substance must go with the flower, that it is almost impossible to dry 
it. The structure of the flower, also was full of interest to me, so that 
on the whole, I thought I had secured a real prize. 

At night I listened with great pleasure to a long conversation be- 
tween Mr. Clark and Mr. Picotte, on Indian customs and language, 
and I regret that I cannot record it fully. They mentioned the great 
generosity of all Indians manifested in their disposition to give pres- 
ents, and so great is the desire to do so, that they will even steal to 
gratify it; the same generous disposition is remarked in nearly all 
half breeds. Politeness amongst them assumes some very singular 
forms; for instance, it is a mark of great respect for an Indian to pass 
his plate with the remnant of his meal to any one who may be with 
him; this I have observed at the feasts, and have seen it in the half- 
breeds constantly. And it is the very quintessence of politeness for an 
Indian who is drinking liquor, to fill his mouth and then pass the 
contents to his friends’s mouth from his own. The Indians notice the 
manner in which they are treated by the traders, and think it rather 
strange—say they, “we give you the best food and the best robe, while 
you give us poor food and put us in another room to sleep.” “Well,” 
reply the traders, “the reason is, that there are so many of you, and 
so few of us, we cannot afford to feed you all, as we feed ourselves, 
and if we feed one of you better than another, jealousy is produced.” 

The Indians in their intercourse like to see a man well dressed be- 
cause it shows respect to them, and they despise a man who adopts 
their own costume; they are conscious of, and admit the white man’s 
superiority, and have mind enough to despise the man who lowers 
himself to them. They all make it a point to dress in their best when 
they reach a fort, except the Assiniboines; and Ferdinand says that 
if they are not dirty before they get near the fort they make themselves 
so purposely. 

The Indian name of the Gros Ventres is Minetaree—the people of 
the willows—the Aricarees call themselves Corn Eaters, and the 
Mandans have no translation for their name. Mr. Clark mentioned 
a difficulty in acquiring an Indian language worthy of notice, namely, 
that the women and men use a language so different that after acquir- 
ing one you would almost be ignorant of the other—that the men would 
pretend to be entirely ignorant of many words which the women use, 
and these are not words peculiar to feminine dress or habits, but the 
names of very common articles and acts. This is doubtless owing 
to the social position of the female—their interest is separate from 


McDrrMorrT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 119 


that of the men, and they are made to feel that they are regarded as 
inferior beings. There is a difference in the language of the male and 
female even in civilized life, but this arises from a very different rea- 
son—from the superior refinement of the latter. 

It was remarked as an instance of politeness of an Indian gentleman, 
that he never laughs at the awkward attempts of a white to speak 
his language, but on the contrary will compliment him on his success, 
and if a squaw breaks out into a laugh, as they sometimes do at the 
slightest mistake, he rebukes her and tells her she does not know how 
to speak her own language. This reminded me of the conduct of the 
Chinese to our missionaries in listening to their first attempts at 
preaching. 

We spoke a little of the importance of a good half-breed school on 
this river, and every one present gave it as his opinion, that an effort 
to establish one would meet with encouragement. It is said that there 
are probably one hundred and fifty children whose parents were able 
to pay sixty or eighty dollars a year for their schooling. 

Evening.—Stopped about thirty miles above Fort Pierre—have 
therefore made a poor run to-day, and had a great deal of grumbling. 
The western bank has been almost a continuous bed of slate, thirty to 
forty feet high. I went ashore, and found the bottom covered with 
a vine bearing a pretty specimen of bindweed, and have preserved 
some good specimens; it differs from the beautiful pure white bind- 
weed of Virginia, in having running vines and a purple tinge on the 
petal. 

Friday, June 28.—About ten miles below Fort Pierre—home seems 
to be approaching quite rapidly, and we are now only about three 
thousand miles from it,” and no cholera in the states, as we under- 
stand. We reached the Fort at about nine o’clock this morning, and 
left at two P. M. I was glad to see again my acquaintances. 

Mr. Picotte here left us, and we are to make the rest of the trip 
without him. He has been very kind to me and asked me to remain 
with him this summer, but this was out of the question. In leaving 
the Indian country, I must record my acknowledgment of the very 
many acts of kindness and hospitality extended towards me. The 
gentlemen, particularly of the Fur Company, have uniformily [sic] 
treated me with kindness and attention. 

Saturday, June 29.—Last night closed in with clouds indicating 
a shower, and a fine rain fell during the early part of the night. 
Called by Mr. Pattick about five o’clock to see the opposition boat, 
which was in sight. All hands got up, and in about half an hour 
the two boats were opposite one another in the stream, but not a word 
was exchanged—thus we passed, twelve hundred miles from home, 


235 That is, Chambersburg. 


120 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Buuy, 147 


and did not extend the slightest salutation; so much for opposition 
in trade. It was the St. Ange, a fine boat, owned and commanded 
by Captain Joseph Lebarge.”* ‘There were several ladies on board, 
and my eyes were delighted with the sight of a beautiful face and fine 
figure for the first time in some months. A great many high slate 
hills on the west side this morning. 

Monday, July 1—On Saturday night we camped a short distance 
below White River,” and had something of a blow again. Yesterday 
we passed the L’Eau Qui Court ”* and encamped below it, and now at 
about ten o’clock, Monday morning we are pushing down stream quite 
rapidly below the river A’Jacques. It had been my intention to have 
noticed with some particularity the face of the country below Fort 
Pierre, but as it has been carefully examined by scientific men with in- 
struments, and reports made on it, it appears to me scarcely worth my 
while to do so, and besides this it is impossible for me to give an 
accurate account of the geological formation from observing it as 
the boat passes swiftly by. I have noticed the limestone mentioned 
by Nicollet and seen it in fine strata lying above slate; if this stone 
is hard enough, it would be admirable for building. I think it too 
soft however, although I have not yet been able to secure a specimen. 

These slate and limestone rock occur in very high steep bluffs 
rising almost perpendicularly from the water, except when bars or 
narrow bottoms intervene; they also often exhibit evidence of the 
presence of sulphur and iron; they do not occur in one unbroken 
succession, but they cross the river very frequently, being seen now on 
cne side and again on the other, but never, so far as I remember, 
appearing on opposite sides at the same place. They do not occur 
in unbroken succession ever on the same side of the river, but most 
generally appear as the sections of a series of short hills with ravines 
between, and these ravines having in them grass and scrubby trees, 
frequently cedar. I notice many swallow nests in these high banks. 

I have looked with some care for the pseudo volcanoes of Nicollet; 
we passed the one in the bend below White River very early in the 
morning, and I did not see it to my disappointment, but I noticed 
several places in the banks which I supposed he called volcanoes, as 
they presented the red burnt-like appearance noticed so often about 
Fort Union.” One of these places passed yesterday on the west bank, 
had so much the appearance of having been caused by fire as to make 


226 For this voyage of the St. Ange, see Appendix 4. For Joseph La Barge (1815-99) 
the principal source is Chittenden, 1903. Various items of interest concerning him are 
to be found in Larpenteur, 1898; Kurz, 1937; Chittenden and Richardson, 1905; Audubon 
and Coues, 1897 (consult indexes for each). 

227 This is White River of South Dakota, the upper waters of which formed the southern 
boundary of the Bad Lands inspected by Culbertson. 

228 The Niobara River. 

22 See footnote 191. 


McDrrMorr] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 120 


the Captain exclaim—that it must have been a very recent fire. Weare 
again getting into the region of snags, but we have made fine running 
yesterday and to-day. Hurrah for home! 

Tuesday, July 2.—We reached the Vermilion post yesterday at twelve 
o'clock, and was welcomed by Mr. Larpente[u]r.*° We were detained 
there all the afternoon to take in packs, and at night we lay at the 
island opposite and took in wood. I got two pairs of black tailed deer 
horns, and was offered a young skunk, which I declined; there are two 
on board, really beautiful little creatures and full of play. This 
morning we had made forty miles before breakfast and have some 
hopes of being in St. Louis by Sunday. 

Wednesday, July 3.—We spent the night a little below old Council 
Bluffs, and this morning soon after breakfast were at Bellena [Belle- 
vue], and saw for the first time in some months a settlement of whites. 
Yesterday the hills for the first time were seen covered with timber 
and presented quite a pleasing contrast with the bare bluffs of the 
upper river. ‘To-day we are hastening along and may reach St. Joe 
to-night. 

Friday, July 6—Yesterday was passed by me delightfully, because 
1 was hurrying home as fast as steam could carry me. We passed St. 
Joe about ten o’clock, making only a short stop. I there got the skull 
of an Assiniboine chief from Mr. M’Donald. We passed several towns 
but stopped only once, at Parkville; ** we met several steamboats bound 
upward. This morning it is oppressively hot. 

Saturday, July 6.—My trip has at last ended, so far as the Indian 
country is concerned. The El Paso landed about two o’clock, all in 
good health and spirits and glad to get home.*** I desire to feel very 
grateful to Divine Providence for my safe return and restored health— 
may the knowledge gained be all employed in promoting God’s glory. 


230 For Charles Larpenteur (1807-72), consult Larpenteur (Coues, Editor), 1898; Chit- 
tenden, 1903; McDonnell, 1940; Chittenden and Richardson, 1905. lLarpenteur had left 
Saint Charles with his family for Vermilion Post on May 10, 1850 (Coues, op. cit., vol. 
2, p. 289). (See footnote 81, above.) 

231 Parkville, Platte County, Mo., had been laid off as a town by George S. Park in 1837; 
in 1850 its population was 309. (Consult History of Clay and Platte Counties, Missouri, 
pp. 839-871.) 

232 For the report of the return of the EI Paso, see Introduction. 


890780—52——_9 


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APPENDIX 1 ?* 


As already stated, Mr. Culbertson collected numerous specimens of Natural 
History during his recent expedition. Among these was a series of plants, a 
list of which as drawn up by Professor Thomas C. Porter, of Marshall College, 
Mercersburg, is subjoined. <A list of the birds and mammalia of the Missouri 
river, from Fort Leavenworth to Fort Union at the mouth of the Yellowstone, 
has been kindly furnished by Mr. Edward Harris, of Moorestown, N. Jersey, 
and includes many specimens not seen by Mr. Culbertson. Mr. Harris visited 
the Upper Missouri in 1842 [1843], in company with the distinguished naturalist, 
Mr. J. J. Audubon, recently deceased, for the purpose of assisting the latter 
gentleman in procuring materials for his valuable work on the mammalia of 
North America. No systematic catalogue of the kind has ever been before 
presented, although detached notices may be found in the narrative of Maxi- 
milian, Prince de Wied of a journey along the Missouri to the Rocky mountains 
in 1832. 

The concluding part of the appendix contains some valuable information on 
the numbers and distribution of the Indians of the Upper Missouri. This is 
arranged in a tabular form, accompanied by explanations, and is published as 
left by Mr. Culbertson. 

S. F. Bargp. 


233 The materials of Appendix 1 are reprinted from the report in Fifth Annual Report 
of the Smithsonian Institution for the year 1850 (32d Congr., Sp. Sess., Senate Misc. Doc. 
No. 1), pp. 183-145. 


128 


LIST OF PLANTS COLLECTED BY MR. CULBERTSON :—BY PROFESSOR 
THOMAS C. PORTER. 
RANUNCULACEAE, 


Anemone pennsylvanica, Linn. Common in moist grounds along the Missouri. 
Junel17. 56, 82.* 
Thalictrum dioicum, Linn. Staminate plant. Missouri river, June. 76. 
Thalictrum cornuti, Linn. Low grounds along the Missouri. Five feet high. 
June 27. 112. 
Delphinium azureum, Michz. Grassy bank opposite Fort Lookout. June 29. 108. 
BERBERIDACEAE. 


Leontice thalictroides, Linn. Sine fl. et fr. Pinon’s spring, west of the head of 
Bad river. May 11. 2. 
CRUCIFERAE. 


Sisymbrium canescens, Nutt. Frequent near Fort Pierre. May. 26, 29. 
Erysimum asperum D.C. Abundant around Fort Pierre. May, June. 40. 
Vesicaria ludoviciana D. ©. Elk Horn Prairie. 72, 91. 

Vesicaria (undetermined.) Prairie. May. 9. 


VIOLACEAE. 


Viola cucullata, Ait. May. 18, 21. 
Viola Nuttallii, Pursh. Valley of the Missouri. May 15. 10, 11. 


LINACEAE, 


Linum rigidum, Pursh. Low grounds near Fort Pierre. June. 67. 
Linum perenne, Linn. Near the mouth of Milk River. June 20. 98. 


OXALIDACEAE. 
Oxalis stricta, Linn. Bank of the Missouri below Fort Clarke. June 23. 104. 
ANACARDIACEAE. 
Rhus toxicodendron, Linn. Bank of the Missouri. June. 58. 
MALVACEAE. 


Malvastrum coccineum, Gray. Pl. Fendl. p. 34, and Gen Ill. t. 219. (Sida 
coccinea, Nutt.) Dry soil, near the mouth of the Yellowstone. June 15. 80. 


VITACEAE. 


Vitis riparia, Miche. Banks of the Missouri. June. 65. 


*The numbers are those attached to the specimens.—Barrp. 
124 


McDarMorr] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 125 


POLYGALACEAE. 


Poiygala alba, Nutt. (P. Beyrichii, Torr & Gr.) Opposite Fort Lookout, 110. 


LEGUMINOSAE. 


Vicia americana, Muhl. Common along the Missouri, above Fort Pierre. 105. 

Lathyrus linearis, Nutt. Banks of the Missouri; frequent. 17, 95. 

Lathyrus polymorphus, Nutt. Very ebundant on hills and low grounds. ira- 
grant. May. 12. 

Amorpha nana, Nutt. Common around Fort Pierre; 18 inches to two feet high. 
May. 38. 

Dalea (undetermined.) Sine fl, et fr. Bank of the Missouri. June. 62. 

Psoralea esculenta, Pursh. “Prairie turnip.” Near Fort Pierre. May. 42, 43, 
68. 

Astragalus caryocarpus, Ker. Sine fr. Common. May. 24. 

Astragalus racemosus? Pursh. TEik Horn Prairie. June 18. 93. 

Astragalus (undetermined.) June 20. 100. 

Oxytropis Lambertii, Pursh. Dry hills on the prairie. May 16. 8, S84. 

Phaca neglecta? Torrdé Gr. (Specimen imperfect) Near fort Lookout. June 
Ag, » alla. 

Thermopsis rhombifolia, Nutt. Onthe Missouri above Fort Union. 92. 

Lupinus pusillus, Pursh. Upper Missouri. 88. 


ROSACEAE. 


Prunus americana, Marshall. Middle of May. 14. 

Potentilla pennsylvanica, Linn. Low grounds; one hundred and twenty miles 
above Fort Union. Junel19. 96. 

Potentilla anserina, Linn. Above Fort Union. 97. 

Rosa blanda, Aif#. Low grounds and woods; forty miles above Fort Union; very 
abundant. June 17. 101, 102. 


ONAGRACEAE. 


Aenothera caespitosa, Nutt. Very common on the sides of barren hills, near Fort 
Pierre. End of May. 31. 

Gaura coccinea, Nutt. Hills near the river, above the mouth of the Yellowstone. 
June 15. 79, 89. 

Gaura (undetermined.) Perhaps a variety of G. coccinea, Nutt, Near Fort 
Pierre. June. 49. 


GROSSULARIACEAE. 
Ribes aureum, Pursh. Bank of the Missouri, near Fort Pierre. May. 15. 69, 
UMBELLIYVERAE, 
Nos. 1, 7, and 46 (in fruit) (undetermined.) 
CORNACEAE. 
Cornus stolonifera, Miche... Abundant on the banks of the Missouri. 51. 8&5. 


CAPRIFOLIACEAE. 


Symphoricarpus (Fol.) Wet grounds along the Missouri. 62, 79, 99. 
Viburnum lentago, Linn. Abundant along the Missouri. 74. 


126 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BULL, 147 


RUBIACEAE. 


Galium boreale, Linn. Dry bank on the Missouri fifty miles below the mouth of 
the Yellowstone. June. 81. 


COMPOSITAE. 


Achillea millefolium, Linn. Elk Horn Prairie, and above Milk river. June 18 
and 20. 87, 103. 

Artemisia frigida, Willd. (fol.) Prairie just below Fort Pierre. 23. 

Senecio (undetermined.) Common on the Prairies about Fort Pierre. May. 30. 

Cirsium undulatum, Spreng. (fol.) River bank just above Fort Pierre. May. 37. 

Lygodesmia juncea, Nutt. Opposite Fort Lookout. June 29. 109. 

Troximon cuspidatum, Pursh. Wet ground and prairie round Fort Pierre. May. 
44. 


PRIMULACEAE. 


Lysimachia ciliata, Linn. Moist grounds, Upper Missouri. June 27. 114. 


SCROPHULARIACEAE. 


Pentstemon (undetermined.) Elk Horn prairie. 90. 

Pentstemon (sp. nov?) Rocky Hill near Fort Pierre. 28, 73. 

Castilleja sessiliflora, Pursh. Elk Horn prairie on the Missouri, about eighty 
miles above Fort Union. June 18. 83. 


VERBENACEAE. 


Verbena bracteosa? Mich». About the holes of the prairie Marmot. May. 39, 
PP. 


BORAGINACEAE, 
Lithospermum? Bank of the Missouri river. June. 177. 
Myosotis glomerata, Nutt. Near Fort Pierre. May. 27, 45. 
Mertensia (undetermined) Dry prairies. May. 3, 4. 
CONVOLVULACEAE, 
Calystegia sepium, R. Br. Wet grounds on the Missouri. June 27. 61, 107. 


APOCYNACEAE, 
Apocynum cannabinum, Linn. Moist low grounds, eighty miles above Fort 
Pierre. Junel7. 113. 
ASCLEPIADACEAR., 
Asclepias Sullivantii, Hngelm. Wet meadows on the Missouri; common. May. 
82. 
SANTALACEARE. 


Comandra umbellata, Nutt. Just below Fort Pierre, and bluffs near the mouth 
of Heart river. May, June. 28, 71. 


SALICACEAE. 


Salix longifolia, Muhl. (pist jl.) Very common. June. 52. 

Salix (undetermined). Stam. f. Abundant on streams and sand bars; Upper 
Missouri. May. 13. 

Populus laevigata, Willd. Valley of the Missouri. S. fl. and fr. 51. 


McDerMmorr] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 127 


IRIDACEAE. 


Sisyrinchium bermudiana, Linn. Prairie above Fort Pierre. June 12. 106. 


SMILACEAE. 


Smilax herbacea, Linn. (Stam. pl.) Near Fort Pierre. May. 41. 


LILIACEAE. 


Smilacina stellata, Desf. Very common in wet places along the Missouri. June. 
5D. 
Allium (undetermined.) (fl. only.) Perhaps A. stellatum of Geyer’s collection. 
20. 
COMMELYNACEAE. 


‘Tradeseantia virginica, Linn. High dry bank just below the mouth of Heart 
river. Junel0. 86. 
CYPERACEAE. 


Carex stricta, Lam. Wet sand; Upper Missouri. June. 75. 
GRAMINIEAE. 

Elymus (undetermined). Elk Horn prairie. June 18. 94. 
EQUISETACEAE. 


Equisetum arvense, Linn. (Sterile plant.) Common along the Missouri. June. 
50. 


LIST OF BIRDS AND MAMMALIA FOUND ON THE MISSOURI RIVER FROM 
FORT LEAVENWORTH TO FORT UNION, AT THE MOUTH OF THE YEL- 
LOWSTONE RIVER, BY EDWARD HARRIS, ESQ. 


(The Species marked with an asterisk were seen on the lower part of the river; 
the rest were higher up towards Fort Union.) 


Cathartes aura, Til. Turkey Buzzard. 
Buteo swainsoni, Bp? Common Buzzard. 
Archibuteo St. Johannis, (Om.)* Black Hawk. 
Aquila chrysaetos, Golden or Ringtailed Eagle. 
Haliaetus leucocephalus, Sav. Bald Eagle. 
Paudion carolinus, Bp. Fish Hawk. 
*Nauclerus furcatus, Vig. Swallow tail Hawk, (above Council Bluffs). 
Falco peregrinus, L. Duck Hawk. 
sparverius, L. Sparrow Hawk. 
Circus uliginosus, Wils. Marsh Hawk. 
*Athene cunicularia, Bp. Burrowing Owl. 
Bubo virginianus, Cur, Great Horned Owl, the whitish variety. 
Antrostomus nuttalli, Aud. Poor Will. 
Chordeiles virginianus, Sw. Night Hawk. 
Acanthylis pelasgia, [Boil.] Chimney Swallow. 
Hirundo purpurea, L. Purple Martin. 
lunifrons, Say. Cliff Swallow. 
bicolor, Vieill. White bellied Swallow. 
rufa, Om... Barn swallow. 
*serripennis, Aud. Rough winged Swallow. 
Tyrannus verticalis, Say. Arkansas Flycatcher. 
crinitus, Sw. Great crested Flycatcher. 
intrepidus, Vieill. King Bird. 
Tyrannula sayi, Sw. Say’s Flycatcher. 
Setophaga ruticilla, Sw. Redstart. 
Sylvicola aestiva, Sw. Yellow Warbler. 
Trichas marilandica, Bp. Maryland Yellow Throat. 
Helinaia peregrina, Aud. Tennessee Warbler. 
Minotilta varia, Vieill. Black and White Creeper. 
Troglodytes obsoletus, Say. Rock Wren. 
aedon, Vieill. House Wren. 
Parus septentrionalis, Harris. Long tailed Wren. 
Sialia arctica, Sw. Northern Blue Bird. 
Mimus carolinensis, L. Cat Bird. 
rufus, Bp. Brown Thrush. 
Turdus migratorius, L. Robin. 
wilsonii, Bp. Tawney Thrush. 
Seiurus aurocapillus, Sw. Golden Crowned Thrush. 
noveboracensis, Bp. Water Thrush. 
Agrodoma spraguei, Aud. Sprague’s Lark. 
Otocoris rufus. Western Sky Lark. 
1“Om,” is apparently a typographical error and “Gm.” (abbrevation for Gmelin) is meant. 


128 


McDERMOTT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 129 


Plectrophanes pictus, Sw. Smith’s Lark. 
ornatus, Towns, Chesnut [sic] collared Lark. 

Chondestes grammaca, Bp. Lark Finch. 

Zonotrichia graminea, Sw. Grass Finch. 
leucophrys, Forst. Sw. White crowned Sparrow. 

*Zonotrichia querula, Nutt. Harris’ Finch. 

Spizella pallida, Bp. Clay colored Bunting. 
socialis, Bp. Chipping Sparrow. 

*Passerculus savanna, Bp. Savannah Sparrow. 

*OCoturniculus henslowi, Bp. Henslow’s Bunting. 
lecontei, Aud. Leconie’s Bunting. 
bairdii, Aud. Baird’s Bunting. 

Spiza amoena, Bp, Lazuli Finch. 

Carduelis tristis, L. Goldfinch. 

Pipilo arcticus, Sw. Arctic Towhee. 

*erythropthalmus, (L.) 'Towhee. 

Corydalina bicolor, (Towns.) White shouldered Sparrow. 

*Hrythrospica purpurea. Purple Finch. 

Guiraca, coerulea, Sw. Blue Grosbeak, above Council Blufis. 
ludoviciana, Sw. Rose breasted Grosbeak, above Council Bluffs. 
melanocephala, Siw. Black headed Grosbeak. 

*Pyranga rubra, (L.) Vieill. Searlet Tanager. 

Dolichonyz oryzivora, Sw. Bob Link. 

Molothrus pecoris, Sw. Cow Bird. 

Agelaius phoeniceus, Vieill. Red wing Blackbird. 
*ranthocephalus, Bp. Sw. Yellow headed Blackbird. 

Icterus baltimore Daud. Hanging Bird. 

Scolecophagus mexicanus, Sw. Brewer's Blackbird. 

«Sturnella ludoviciana, Bp. Meadow Lark. 
neglecta, Aud. Western Lark. 

Corvus cacalotl, Wagl. Raven. 
americanus, Aud, Crow. 

Pica hudsonica, Sab. Magpie. 

Lanius ludovicianus, L. Loggerhead Shrike. 

Vireo olivaceus, L. Red eyed Wren [Vireo]. 

Icteria viridis, Bp. Chat. 

Bombycilla carolinensis, Br. Cedar Bird. 

*Trochilus colubris, L. Humming Bird. 

Picus harrisi, Aud. Harris’ Woodpecker. 
erythrocephalus, L. Red head Woodpecker. 

Coluptes auratus, L. Flicker. 
rubricatus, Licht. Red shafted Flicker. 
ayresii, Aud. Ayres red shafted Flicker. 

Brythrophrys erythrophthalmus, Wils. Black billed Cuckoo. 

*Conurus carolinensis, Kuhl. Parraquet; above Fort Leavenworth. 

Ectopistes migratorius, Sw. Wild Pigeon. 
carolinensis, Sw. Dove. 

*VWeleagris gallopavo, L. Wild Turkey, above Floyd’s bluff. 

Tetrao urophasianus, Bp. Cock of the Plains. 

*cupido, L. Prairie Hen. 

phasianellus, L. Sharp tailed Prairie Hen. 
Ortyz virginiana, Steph. Bob White. 
Fulica americana, Om. Coot. 


1“Om.” is apparently a typographical error and “Gm.” (abbreviation for Gmelin) is meant. 


130 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY 


Charadrius vociferus, (L.) Kildeer. 
virginiacus, Borck. Bull head Plover. 

Actitis bartramius, Field Plover. 
macularius, (L.) Bp. Spotted Sandpiper. 

Totanus flavipes, Vieill. Yellow Shanks. 

*Rusticola minor, Woodcock. 

*Recurvirostra americana, (Om.)* Avoset. 

Numenius longirostris, Wils. urlew. 

Ardea herodias, (L.) Blue Heron. 

Anser canadensis (L.) Canada Goose. 
*hutchinsii, Rich. Wutchin’s Canada Goose. 
*erythropus, Bp. White fronted Canada Goose. 
*hyperboreus, (Pall.) Snow Goose. 

Cygnus buccinator, Rich. Trumpeter Swan. 

Anas boschas, (l.) Mallard Duck. 
strepera, (L.) Gadwall Duck. 

*acuta, (L.) Sprig-tail Duck. 

Anas sponsa, (L.) Summer Duck. 

*Anas obscura, (Om.)* Black Duck. 
*clypeata, (L.) Shoveler. 

*Grus americanus, (L.) Whooping Crane. 

Lasur atricilla, (L.) Black head Gull. 

Sterna fissipes, (L.) Black Tern. 


MAMMALIA. 


Bos americanus. Buffalo. 

Cervus canadensis, Say. Elk. 
macrotis, Say. Black tail Deer. 
virginianus, (L.) Common Deer 

Antilope americana, Ord. Antelope. 

Ovis montana, Desm. Bighorn. 

Ursus ferox. Grizzly Bear. 

*americanus, Brown Bear. 

Meles Labradoria, Sab. Badger. 

Gulo luscus, Sab. Wolverene. 

Lupus occidentalis, Rich. White Wolf. 
latrans, Say. Prairie Wolf. 

Vulpus velox, Say. Swift Fox. 

Mephitis Chinga? Skunk. 

Mustela canadensis, Fisher. 

Lynx canadensis, Canada Lynx. 

Oastor americanus, Rich. Beaver. 

Lepus townsendii, Bach. Townsend’s Hare. 
artemisia, Bach. Wormwood Hare. 
*sylvaticus? Bach. Common Rabbit. 

*Spermophilus Wudovicianus, Say. Prairie Dog. 
*tridecemlineatus, Mitch. Prairie Squirrel. 

*Sciurus cinereus, (L.) Cat Squirrel. 
*niger. Black Squirrel. 

*macrourus, Say. Great tailed Squirrel. 


*Tamias quadrivittatus, Say. Four lined Ground Squirrel. 


[BULL. 147 


1“Om.” is apparently a typographical error and ‘““Gm.” (abbreviation for Gmelin) is meant. 


MCDERMOTT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 131 


Neotoma floridana. Wood Rat. 
*Mus musculus, (L.) House Mouse. 

Hiesperomys leucopus? Raf. Deer Mouse. 

Psuedostoma borealis, Rich. Gopher. 

Hystrix dorsata. Porcupine. 

The following new Species are indicated as occurring in this region, by Max- 
imilian Prince de Wied, (Voyage dans lAmerique du Nord. Paris, 1848. 3 vols. 
8 vo.) 

Vespertilio ursinus. Fort Union. 
Hypudoeus leucogaster. Mandan Village. 
Perognatus fuscus. Fort Union. 


AN EXPLANATION OF THE TABULAR VIEW OF THE INDIAN TRIBES 
OF THE UPPER MISSOURI. 


BY THADDEUS A. CULBERTSON, JULY 1850. 
Explanation of the Tabular view of the Sioux Nation of the U. Missouri. 


These tables are designed to show the numbers, principal tribes, smaller divi- 
sions and country of that part of the Sioux Nation living on the Upper Missouri. 
The information has been gathered from Mr. Charles Gilpin, of Fort Pierre, 
from several Indian chiefs, and has been submitted to the inspection of Mr. 
Henry Picotte and Mr. Alexander Culbertson, partners of the American Fur 
company, and for many years familiar with the nation referred to, as well as 
with those higher up the river. The Sioux nation occupies the immense tract of 
country extending in a south west direction from the Upper Mississippi to the 
Platte river, and bounded on the West by the Black Hills. 

This table does not refer to that part of the nation living on the Mississippi. 
Three thousand lodges may be relied on as very nearly the correct number of 
those living on the Missouri, according to the testimony of the best authority, 
and thirty thousand as nearly the correct number of souls; the average souls 
per lodge has been put at ten, on the authority of Mr. Picotte, who has had 
every opportunity of making a correct estimate. He thinks that eight souls per 
lodge might not be too low, but he prefers to put the estimate at ten. 

The first division of the nation is into three large tribes:—The Yanktons, 
the Yanktonnans and the Titons or Titonwans. These speak the same lan- 
guage and always maintain friendly relations, but they have few interests in 
common; so far as I could learn, they hold towards each other no relation at 
all analogous to a federal union. 

Each of these tribes is again divided into a great number of small bands, 
bound together by ties of kindred and affinity; each of these consists of a 
single family connection, lives by itself, and regulates its own private concerns. 
They have no chief possessing the authority which is generally associated with 
that title, but the men of authority amongst them are those who have gained 
it by an extensive family connection, by their great wealth, or by their success 
in war and general character for wisdom. There are a number of such men in 
each band. 

These bands all take names that their own taste may select, or that some 
circumstance may give them. Those given in the table are by no means the 
whole number, but they are the principal ones, and are sufficient to illustrate 
the nature of these divisions. The Titons have an intermediate division be- 
tween these small bands and the larger ones, consisting of seven bands, as 
marked in the table, the Brules, Blackfeet, &e. There are other associations 
amongst all the tribes, which I have not noticed in the table; these are somewhat 
analogous to the association of Odd Fellows and other secret societies amongst 
us, having for their object mutual protection and defence. The country of 
each tribe has necessarily been assigned by the most general limits. The Sioux 
nation has no fixed place of residence; the people use skin lodges for their 
habitations and are constantly on the move, and their only wealth consists of 


132 


McDERMorr] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 133 


horses and the buffalo robes that they may procure. The rivers referred to 
in the table are the ones on some part of whose basins the tribe generally 
passes the winter. The limits between hostile nations may be tolerably well 
defined, as they are exceedingly careful not to meet their enemies unless 
traveling in large bands or in war parties. 

The list of names that closes the table is intended principally to illustrate 
their method of naming; these are the names of a few of the principal men in 
each band, and the same method of naming is employed in everything. It will 
be seen that all the names are significant and most probably given to the persons 
from Some circumstance happening to them, or great feat performed by them. 
The last column is the Indian name spelled as pronounced, as nearly as the ear 
could catch the sound. 


Explanation of the Tabular view of several Indian nations of the Upper 
Missouri. 


THE CHEYENNE NATION. 


Most of the previous remarks apply also to the nations referred to in these 
tables. I shall here merely note peculiarities. This nation once lived on the 
Missouri, but has been driven back gradually by the Sioux people, until their 
principal range is west of the Black Hills. They speak a distinct language, 
which is so difficult to acquire, that but two or three whites are able to speak it. 
In 1849 they suffered severely from the cholera;** about two hundred lodges 
being carried off by that disease. The following are the names of two of their 
principal men. Yellow Wolf—Sha-ga-man-to-g’hi. Mad Bull—To-tun-cha-ga- 
nun-tchi-ah. 


THE ARICCAREE NATION. 


This people differs from most other tribes in using dirt lodges and living in a 
permanent village. Their village is located at Fort Clarke, on the west bank of 
the Missouri, little above forty-seven degrees of North latitude. They inhabit 
this during the whole of the year, except a part of the winter months. They 
raise large quantities of corn, which differs very much from that raised in our 
fields, but none of our vegetables have reached them yet. The Rees were once 
a large nation, but within the last thirty years, pestilence, disease and war have 
reduced their numbers very gradually. This has almost broken up these large 
family connections that constitute the bands amongst the Sioux and the bands 
of Rees in the table, are those smaller associations mentioned in page 4. 


THE MANDAN NATION. 


This is the remnant of quite a large band that was almost exterminated by the 
small pox in 1838 or 1839. Their depopulated village was taken possession of 
by the Rees who now hold it and they themselves became partly incorporated with 
the Rees and other tribes, excepting a few who have a small village, five miles 
above that of the Rees. They are again increasing very slowly, and are said 
to [be] a brave people. They speak a distinct language. 


234 Cf, Grinnell, 1923, vol. 2, pp. 164-165. 
235 That is, paragraph 4 of this “Explanation.” 


890780—52 10 


JUN 1 0 1082 


134 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Buuy. 147 


Mr. Joseph Desautel,” of Fort Clarke, is my authority for the numbers of 
the Ree nation. 
THE GROS VENTRE NATION. 


The Indian name for this nation is Minnetaree—people of the Willows. Like 
the Rees they live in a permanent village and cultivate the land; their village 
is at Fort Berthold, on the east side of the Missouri, seventy-five miles above 
the Ree village. They have lately enclosed it with good pickets, to protect them- 
selves from their enemies, and are said to be anxious to adopt the arts of 
civilized life. The bands here, as with the Rees, are not formed by family 
connections, but are voluntary associations and consist of persons of the same 
age. The Black Tail Deer band consists of very old men, and the other bands 
of ages in a descending series to the Foxes, which is a band of very young 
men. 

Mr. Kipp, of Fort Be[r]thold, is my authority here. 


THE ASSINIBOINE NATION. 


This is a large wandering tribe, ranging in a very extensive country north 
of the Missouri, extending far into British America, and lying east of the 
Blackfoot country. The larger part trades with the British company, and only 
about six hundred lodges trade with the Americans. Their name signifies the 
Stone People. Their language is kindred to the Sioux. 


THE CROW NATION. 


This is a large nation inhabiting the country drained by the Yellowstone. 
It is divided into two large villages or bands, and these are again divided into 
bands formed of family connections; the connections are here counted on the 
mothers’ side instead of the fathers’. The Crow people are very brave and 
are great warriors. They and the Gros Ventre nation speak the same language. 

Mr. Meldrum, who has lived for twenty-five years amongst the Crows, is 
my authority here. He makes twelve souls the average number to a lodge 
amongst this people, as it is well known that they have more to a lodge than 
any other nation. It will be noticed that the average varies in each nation. 


THE BLACKFOOT NATION. 


This is also a large and very warlike nation, living north of the Missouri, 
and partly in the British dominions. Its minor divisions are not well ascer- 
tained, because only a part trade with the Americans, and they generally come 
to the Fort in very large numbers. The division into North and South Black- 
feet is probably a division made by the traders for their own convenience. The 
first three divisions speak the same language, but the Gros Ventre du Prairie, 
although fully incorporated with the Blackfoot nation, speak a different tongue, 
said to be the same as that of the Arapahoes on the Arkansas. 

Mr. Malcom Clark, of Fort Benton, is my authority. 


6 De Smet met the “amiable Mr. Des Autels” at Fort Mandan in 1846 (Chittenden 
and Richardson, 1905, vol. 2, p. 606). Larpenteur (1898, vol. 2, p. 246) put him down 
as “Mr. Des Hotel.” Abel identifies him as Joseph Desautel, nephew of James Kipp and 


trader at Fort Clark. He died at Fort Pierre November 15, 1850 (Abel, 1932, pp. 227, 
249-250). 


135 


CULBERTSON JOURNAL 


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McDurMorT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 1U3i76 


B. 


TABULAR VIEW OF SEVERAL INDIAN NATIONS, ON THE UPPER 
oe A. D. 1850. 


eee Dogs 


Gros Ventre, Permanent village on the 


Nations. (ie eae Bands. Heme Wee sCOUTTY-T be ieee Language. 
Cheyenne, The Dog Soldier band aa. west of the Black 
300 Lodges The Yellow Wolf band Language distinct. 
3,000 Souls The Half Breed band EOnsinaly on the Missouri. 
Bandjof the Bulls Permanent village at Fort 
Blackmouths Clark, about forty seven 
Aricaree, Foolish Dogs degrees north latitude:— | Language kindred to 
200 Lodges Young Dogs they winter elsewhere. the Pawnee. 
1,500 Souls Moree, \ West bank of the Missouri. 
Mandan, Permanent village on the Mis- 
30 Lod es The Pheasants souri, five miles above the | Language distinct. 
150 so Ree village. 
85 lodges ot enoes east bank of the Missouri, | Language kindred to 
700 souls Bulls seventy-five miles above Fort the Crow. 
Black Tail Clark, at Fort Berthold. 
Deers 
Assiniboine, 


1,500 lodges (in 
all) 600 trade on 
the Missouri 


North of the Missouri, and Language kindred to 


east of the Blackfoot country the Bious or Dah- 


The Left Hand band 
{Could not learn the 
names of other bands] 


| Band of the Foxes 


‘The Canoe band 


B.— TABULAR VIEW :—Continued 
Nations. | Bands. Country. Language. 


— Crow People The above two bands 
Mine-set-peri, (Sap- are divided into 12 
ancora) small ones, as follows: 
— Pole Cat band 

— Bad Leggins 


row — Those that lodge close together 


400 lodges —— The treacherous lodges The basin of the | Language 
4.800 Be — Red Mouths | j Yellow Stone distinct. 
(about) — Bad Coup: (originally Black Feet Indians)} river 


— The Rich Prairie Dog 

— The lodges charged upon 

—— Ship-tet-sa 

— Kick in the Belly 

— The lodges without Horses 

— Root Diggers: (originally a band of Snake 


Indians) 
Tribes. ee Lee Oe eee Bands. coin a Remarks. 

Trade with Hudson’s 

Bip od of NE es os eT 

Black Foot, Fur Co. 

1,200 lodges, The Fish Eaters 
raeene The Blood Indians | ae opus pad eathe Language distinct. 
Nortiinieduans Country north of the 
The Piedgans, (pro- } the People that don’t laugh . Ve Of ASRS 
nounced Pagans) The Bloody Piedgans country: Language dis- 
The Cow Dung Band 
| Gros Ventre du Prairie { Not ascertained { Kindrea to the Arapa- 
SUMMARY 

CSE bc aD i Dat ape ae tte ge pee PE Oe aS ce 30, 000 
CBee ratte et lial BT ol 5 dn I oO he en See 3, 000 
PANIC GALT C Gere ra on ea he esa Lycee Mec atl ey ee ee 1, 500 
FIV Wear ol Sr eR eed i re a IE SEA ae WS ee, eed ne eh eee 150 
COPOSBVE TELE S ee eee a es ee yy ye ee he de yc Es ee 700 
FAISSI TD OLN Gon eee eee ne ee ee aye es ae 4, 800 
(CIO yes ease onc ae i Spe ete Myre cl pee a WR Po eee 4, 800 
FEST ee Mah Co) bea a wa ga Bap a eps ee ene 9, 600 


Probable number of Indians on the Upper Missouri, and its tributaries._ 54, 550 


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APPENDIX 2 


CULBERTSON’S REPORT TO BAIRD #7 


Fort Pierre, Thursday May 80, 1850 
My Dear Sir, 

Presuming that you will be anxious to hear of my progress I write to day 
so as to be ready for any opportunity that may occur to send to the States. My 
former letter has informed you of my arrival at this point and my brother’s of 
my departure for the Mauvaise Terre. I now will attempt to give you some 
account of my very brief visit to that point of so great interest.’ In the morn- 
ing of Tuesday May Tih I left the fort in company with two men, we had a 
clear and pleasant day for our start and expected to reach the point of destina- 
tion in five days. After the second day the weather became intensely hot and 
the travelling became very fatiguing, as our animals were weak the grass being 
so poor and we had to walk a great deal; however at the end of the fifth day, 
Saturday evening we found ourselves encamped on Sage Creek at the entrance 
of the Bad Lands. Then we rested over the Sabbath and perhaps it will be best 
to give you here an extract from my notes which will inform you of the impres- 
sions made upon me by a distant view of these hills. ‘We left Ball Creek about 
3 Oclock and moved along very slowly as it was very warm and we were very 
lazy. The road now lay over hills which became more steep and frequent as 
we approached the Bad Lands. These occasionally appeared in the distance 
and never before did I see anything that so resembled a large city; so com- 
plete was this deception that I could point out the public buildings ; here appeared 
a large dome which might overtop the city hall; then would appear a large 
pyramidal shaped top suggesting some magnificent building for public purposes 
and in another place might be seen what would appear to be a long row of 
palaces, great in number and superb in all their arrangements. Indeed the 
thought frequently occurred as we rode along that at a distance this portion 
of the grounds looked like a city of palaces—everything arranged on the grandest 
seale and adapted for the habitation, not of pigmies such as now inhabit the 
earth, but of giants such as would be fit to rule over the immense animals whose 
remains are said still to be found there; Again and again as from different 
positions these hills came in sight would such thoughts arise in my mind and I 
could almost fancy that upon the wind would occasionally be borne the din 
and bustle of the immense place as these giants with their stentorian voices 
would jostle along the streets, and hurry on their giant beasts fatigued by the 
mountain loads that made their burdens. The mind could not remain with the 
present; it must range back to the earliest period and ask whence were these 
things? but soon a nearer view would destroy all illusion and the fancy would 
be forced to give way to fact and allow these imaginary cities to be mere sand 
hills. But sand hills as they are they are wonderful and must excite the great- 


237'There is no name on this letter, but it is certainly a report to Baird; see the 
Journal of the same date. 

238 These letters have not been found. 

239 Cf. the Journal, pp. 55-67. 


139 


140 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [ BULL. 147 


est interest in the scientific world. I wish that now we had a company of men 
of this kind prepared for a thorough exploration; as it is, my only hope is to 
be an humble pioneer in this work and to be the means of prompting more able 
men to undertake it.” “The tops of the highest butes in the bad lands appeared 
to be on a level with the prairie beyond them but I took no exact observation. 
About 5 Oclock we came near to Sage Creek and entered on the Bad Lands; here 
it is merely a great number of small hills of all Shapes thrown together in great 
confusion and perfectly bare of vegetation. In thinking of how these lands were 
formed it occurred to me very forcibly that it was by some convulsion of nature 
by which large portions of the grounds sunk leaving the other portions in their 
original positions, which are the hills we now see; these hills appear as though 
formed not by elevation, but by the depression of the surrounding land. This 
opinion appears to be confirmed by the fact that the highest butes have on their 
tops prairie land covered with vegetation such as the plains outside of the Bad 
Lands; the formation of some of the hills also appears to confirm it; one of the 
first over which the road passes is very steep on both sides ranging north and 
south and is covered very thickly with gravel and small stones such as are found 
at the bottom of streams here; this would indicate an elevating force were it not 
that the bute at the north end, many feet higher than the road has its level top 
covered as thickly with the same kind of small stones; its sides are nearly perpen- 
dicular and the strata of earth are perfectly horizontal, all indicating freedom 
from disturbance of any kind; this same thing is true of a bute equal in height 
with this one standing east of it; and of the one at the south end of the steep 
one first mentioned, which however is very slightly elevated and shows some 
evidence of a disturbing force. These facts appear to show that the hills have 
not been disturbed by any upheaving operation, and in a great many of the hills 
I observed the strata to be perfectly horizontal. I noticed one in which the 
larger portion of the hill appears to have sunk leaving a dome shape top 20 or 30 
feet above a wide shelf of prairie land like that on top of the dome encircling 
the whole hill and this shelf is terminated by the steep side of the hill; in both 
the dome shaped peak and the remainder of the hill the strata of clay are hori- 
zontal. There are however many hills that appear as though they might have 
been made by an upheaving force; this opinion is recorded merely as a first 
impression and may be altered by further explorations.” So much for first im- 
pressions; the following extract is from notes made after my visit to the locality 
of the petrifactions. 

Tuesday May 14.—Yesterday I visited the Bad Lands but did not get back to 
camp until it was too late to record the events of the day. We have encamped 
during Sunday on Sage Creek, 9 miles from Bear River; in the morning we were 
off early and took breakfast at the latter. The road from Sage Creek winds 
considerably at first over some very steep hills: This creek is one of the most 
crooked streams I ever saw; its banks are almost perpendicular and about 20, 
or 30 feet high; I observed in several places in the bank a thick strata of slate 
about 20 feet below the surface of the ground above; the water is briny and 
leaves a deposite of salt on the stones at the bottom; it as all other streams along 
the route contains at present no running water. The clay in the bottom is nearly 
a pure white and so clear that at first it seemed muddy from the reflection of the 
smooth deposite of clay at the bottom. When the water in these pools was moved 
by a gentle breeze the shadows on the bottom were the most beautiful I had ever 
seen. A few miles from the creek we passed over some hills that gave evidence 
of the most violent convulsions; these unlike those seen on Saturday appeared 
to have been upheaved and to have experienced the action of fire; one place 
suggested the idea of a volcanic crater; it was a slight hollow and contained a 


McDrrMorr] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 141 


number of rocks different from any around it, dark yellow in appearance. A 
short distance above this, the hills were of white sand and one was covered 
with the small red stones common in the dried beds of streams here. 

From the hills we arose to a prairie the ‘most level that I have seen; for miles 
the eye could detect scarcely the least elevation and it gave not the smallest evi- 
dence of the convulsions that must have raged so near. The level prairie con- 
tinued with a single interruption to the banks of Bear River; the descent to this 
is by a very steep hill and another one on the opposite bank rises to the level prai- 
rie beyond. All along this mornings route the Black Hills were distinctly seen in 
the distance and on this side of them, the hills and timber marking the Shager 
River. We encamped on Bear river near a spring which is always anxiously 
looked for by travellers. I also shared in this anxiety and expected to see a fine 
flowing fountain. I was disappointed to find but three small holes in the side 
of the hill holding perhaps a gallon of water, and was again agreeably disap- 
pointed to find this to be cool, delightful sand water. It is the only water I have 
really relished for a long while except perhaps the Missouri. Immediately after 
breakfast we left our baggage and started for the point I had long hoped to reach ; 
my anxiety was great to see the wonders of which I had heard so much. A 
rapid ride over a good road soon brought us to the edge of the descent; this was 
steep but even and in a few minutes we were on the level below. Nothing re- 
markable appeared here, but in about 1% an hour we reached the Bad Lands 
themselves and my interest became intense. The road now was over the deposite 
of yellowish white clay so hardened by the sun as scarcely to be impressed by 
the hoofs of the mules, or by the wheels of the buggy: we passed by a number of 
small squares of ground from two to five and six feet above the level of this clay 
surface having grass on their tops like that on the prairie above and the earth 
was also the same; their sides were perpendicular and the strata in them hori- 
zontal. We soon reached the place where petrifaction most abounds, I got out 
of the buggy and looking around was shown a number of ugly, dark red, unshapen 
masses; “these,” says my guide, “are petrified turtles.” They had lost their 
shells and were crumbling to pieces by the action of the weather: so numerous 
have they been that in many places the ground is literally covered with the crumbs 
of these turtles, but they are of no service for the cabinet. I felt somewhat dis- 
appointed for I had expected to find many fine specimens of petrification of dif- 
ferent animals. However I started on a yoyage of discovery around this pond 
shapen basin; one of the first things found was a large turtle weighing 100 or 
150 Ibs; the shell was partially sound and the body broken in but two pieces; 
this was the most perfect one seen and it has been secured. There being three 
of us we separated and went in different directions; I found everywhere the re- 
mains of these turtle in different degrees of preservation but none perfect; I 
picked up a number of small pieces of bone and stones but found no teeth nor 
heads. This was discouraging but on my return to camp I found that one of 
the men had been more successful and had brought in several tolerably good 
heads, and a number of teeth and pieces of jaw bones. When I ascertained the 
locality of these petrifactions to be so small I hastened to get through my col- 
lection in one day and although the sun was broiling hot and scarcely a mouthful 
of water to work I again went. By evening we had made quite a thorough exam- 
ination of this immediate locality ; we had about 1% a bushel of small articles, a 
number of excellent teeth, jaw bones, several good heads and one large and two 
small turtles besides nearly a peck of small stones and pieces of petrified wood 
picked on the way out near Sheepoi Creek. These I thought to be as many as 
my means of transportation would allow and I have since found them to be 
more, for they are very heavy. I then filled a small white bag with the clay 


142 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BuLy, 147 


from a hill side and with some of the crumbs of a broken turtle, and started with 
McKenzie for the top of one of the highest butes. To gain this was no small job 
as the path was very steep and narrow; at length however we reached it in 
safety although I had to crawl occasionally, and a most magnificent landscape 
rewarded us for our labor. The bute had on its top a level prairie of about 20 
acres; it was covered with grass and of about the same level as those beyond the 
Bad Lands. These prairies on the Hill tops are the ranges of the Big Horn and 
along the very brink and the steepest sides of the hills their paths are distinctly 
seen. We judged this bute to be about 200 feet high and nearly all those with 
grass on their tops appear to be the same, except Some small ones that rise but 
little above the white clay surface below; there are many hills not near so high 
but these appear to have been originally of the same height and to have been 
washed to their present size. 

In every direction except toward the prairie along Bear River we could see these 
great hills towering above the plain below having their sides washed into many 
picturesque shapes: the lower elevations gave a beautiful variety to the bold and 
grand appearance of the higher ones as their level tops just receiving their carpet 
of green looked like so many lovely islands scattered over the surface of a limpid 
lake, for so did the polished white clay appear. Away to the south towered the 
hill on which is Asp Spring and around it as if for guard were placed several 
others that looked like those remains of baronial pride and prowess that are 
perched on the hill tops that border the Rhine; far as the eye could reach it 
rested on these palace-like appearances and the imagination was continually 
carried back to the day when castles and towers were the only places of safe abode. 
But how shall I convey to another a correct idea of these lands: this question has 
occurred to me often today; my own conception of them were very inadequate 
from the general descriptions I have heard and I fear that I must likewise fail in 
describing them to others. Perhaps the most just idea of them will be gained by 
supposing an extensive and perfectly level prairie all to sink 200 feet leaving 
scattered about every few hundred feet small patches containing 8, 10, 20, &e acres 
and maintaining their original level undisturbed : above the lowest surface suppose 
a number of small squares 20 or 30 feet across to rise 5 or 10 feet having their tops 
covered with grass as the higher buttes and let the lowest surface be a cream 
coloured polished surface of clay: the sides of all these hills were originally 
perpendicular but they have been washed into a great variety of picturesque 
shapes partaking of the spirit of the gothic style of architecture, while some of 
them had all vestige of vegetation removed and exhibit nothing but bare sides and 
bald heads towering away into the air. This may aid you to form some conception 
of the appearance of these lands, and if you will fancy yourself on the hottest day 
in summer in the hottest part of such a place, without animal and scarce an insect 
astir and with no water to quench your thirst nor shade to protect you from the 
sun you will have some idea of the utter loneliness of the Bad Lands. It appears 
to me quite certain that careful excavations in some of these hills would develop 
many very perfect specimens; many of those now discovered on and near the 
surface most probably have been washed out by the rains, and the remains of the 
turtles at least crumble to pieces when exposed for some time. Feeling exceed- 
ingly fatigued and having no animals fit to ride through these lands and having as 
many or more specimens than I could carry I determined to return without 
making a second visit, and besides these reasons I had some fear of missing the 
boat for Yellowstone, but it has not come yet. We started with our specimens but 
Were compelled to leave them and all unnecessary baggage as the buggy was near 
breaking down. By forced marches I reached the fort in four days having 
been eleven days on the trip. The things did not reach here until this morning 


McDzRrMorT] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 143 


when I packed them up at once; the wolves had broken into the cache in which 
they had been placed and torn everything apart, however nearly all had come 
safely to hand except the petrified wood most of which was lost. You need 
not look for many bones, or skeletons as they are difficult to get about here; 
at all seasons they are scarce and are especially so at this one; we did not 
even see an Antelope until the third day out and did not kill one until after 
that and the wolves stole the head of that one from the cache. One of the 
men snapped his gun several times at a Big Horn in the Mauvaise Terre but of 
course did not get it. The only way to get specimens of this kind is to spend 
a hunting season here and hire men to hunt and then you can get what you want. 
But when we meet I can give you a great deal more information about these 
things. My brother joins in kind regards. 
Respectfully yours, 
THAp. A. CULBERTSON. 


Saturday June 1st. I finished my letter the other day before I was done and 
therefore add a few things by way of a postscript.—The extent of the Bad Lands, 
so far as I can judge from the testimony of those who ought to be familiar with 
them, is about 30 miles from North to South, and about 65 from East to West; 
this is their utmost limit, measuring from the extreme angles; their figure is 
probably nearly this shape: the sides of this general outline must necessarily 


be very irregular but it sufficiently shows the fact they they begin at a point 
about 10 miles southwest of the head of Bad River and gradually expand and 
then again contract to another point at their southern termination. I feel uncer- 
tain as to the position of White River with reference to them but my impression 
is that it flows through a large part of them; some however say that it flows 
outside of the Bad Lands proper. The road from Fort Pierre passes in a course 
nearly due west at the distance of a few miles north of Bad River, called here the 
Little Missouri; after heading this stream at the distance of about 10 miles from 
it, it changes to a direction about S by W and keeps that general direction until 
the locality for petrifactions is reached, winding of course a great deal because of 
the hills. The distances are 


RomWillowCreek2ee. see een eee {i 
Je FK ro) 8 Ko] Cee es ta eh Ne el lL 19%4 
SHEEDOL = eee ee ae eee eon ee ee eee nee 17% 
BigiCottons Woods. es as ewe eee eee 23 
(rein dStONC he 2 See aa eee ee ree ee 914 
HeadioM@BadeRiverz 2. eee ese we ee 17% 
UEC TCC as eee ee er en ee ee 17 
Pea a) ee pe a Pct Sta Si de Bt Ay Cah loads 12 
ES CERT RP ECL C 1o ere oe ee ea oe ne 9 
PEtri£a GhLOn Sen es ee eee nee ee eens 6 
138 miles 


0 This drawing is traced from that in Culbertson’s letter. 


144 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Buuw, 147 


The road is very scarce of timber and water especially the first half of the 
way, and what water there is, is in holes and generally saline but drinkable. 
But one or two of these streams have running water and they very little. 
Fish were not seen but in two places and I did not use the seine in them as 
I postponed it for my return and then had left it in the cache. Indeed I have 
made no use whatever of the seine as it was so inconvenient on the way up and 
since that no fish have been seen except those from the Missouri. Petrifactions 
are said to abound in various localities throughout the whole extent of these lands, 
and along White River, and also mammoth bones are said to be numerous along 
the L’eau qui court: petrified shells and bones are found on some branches of 
the Shayen and on a very high hill called Fox Hills the dividing ridge between 
the Moreau and the Shayen; in fact in all parts of this country petrifactions 
abound but petrified wood was not seen by me in the Bad Land. I gathered 
considerable of it along the road and have heard marvellous stories of whole 
trees being turned to rock not many miles from this but have not seen any. We 
were speaking of visiting some of these localities a few days ago but as the boat 
will probably come very soon we have concluded not to do so. 

You see from the great extent of country in which these things abound that 
a single person with such scanty means as I have had and so limited in time 
ean do searcely anything. This country ought to be explored by a scientific 
corps prepared to collect specimens of all kinds and to take sketches of the ap- 
pearance of the country; this would be very important to a correct exploration 
of the Mauvaise Terre. Animals are scarce here but they abound in the Black 
Hills; these are two days journey from the Bad Lands; they are covered with 
thick forests of pine almost impenetrable by the rays of the sun in many places. 
They are the resort of deer, elk, Bear, beaver and animals of almost every kind; 
streams of clear, cold water abound in them but they contain no fish. You could 
easily get good hunters here familiar with the intricate windings of these hills 
who would guide you through them and hunt for you. Dr Evans wanted to 
visit them but his half-breed guide was afraid of the Gros Vents [sic] and would 
not go. This gentleman is spoken very highly of by the clerks here; he appears 
to be employed by Dr. Owen of New Harmony to make geological collections for 
him and this Dr Owen is said to be over one of the departments of the Smith- 
sonian Institute. Evans gave them some reason te expect him again this sum- 
mer. I feel as though it would be proper to call your attention to the description 
given of some parts of the region about the Jordan by Lynch in his Expedition; 
Since my return from the Bad Lands I have read this book and have been very 
much struck with the fact that these formations probably abound very similar 
to those in the Mauvaise Terre: the steep, mound top hills on the river, the 
horizontal strata of clay or sand; the perfectly white clay, the boulders with 
occasional out-croppings appear to me to be very like what I have seen, and if 
you read his description of the visit to Masara you will notice at once how very 
similar his impressions were to mine at the first sight of the Bad Lands; you 
will notice even a very great coincidence of expression, which is purely accidental 
as I had not read his book at all until after my return. I mention this merely 
that you may examine it and that we can in conversation more accurately test 
my impression. Another very interesting field of inquiry here is that afforded 
by the Indians; certainly they are a people well worthy of study and their habits 
and customs are not to be understood or ever known by a hasty visit and through 
an interpreter. Several very interesting facts have come to my knowledge ac- 
cidentally in conversation and how much more would this be the case were I 
able to go amongst them and talk with them and move about with them on their 


McDzrworr] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 145 


hunting excursions. Any one who took a real interest in such inquiries and had 
means to afford him a living for several years would reap a harvest of honor 
and profit by coming to this indian country, learning the language and living with 
the people making accurate notes of what he saw and heard; he must speak the 
french also; If he had a philosphical turn of mind he could not help being en- 
grossed by the subject and would find himself led gradually to the study of a 
thousand kindred subjects. I frankly confess that I am ignorant of what has 
been done in this particular branch of inquiry but sure am I that much yet re- 
mains to be known. I have prepared for you a tabular view of the Sioux nation 
on the Upper Missouri, exhibiting their numbers, bands and principal chiefs; I 
hope to prepare a similar one of the tribes higher up so that at a glance you will 
have before you the different indian nations and their countries, and you shall 
have the full use of what few notes I have taken; these I regard not as valuable 
but they may serve to confirm the reports of others. My botanical specimens 
number over 100 and they have been collected principally within the last two 
weeks and near the fort: vegetation has been very backward; the grass is still 
short though at present growing rapidly but toward the south the indians report 
that it is short and scarce. The season has thus far been an unusually dry one; 
the Californians will doubtless suffer much as their route is much worse than 
this section of the country. Poor fellows! I can sympathize with them. Kind 
regard to Wm B™ from myself and brother. I hope to meet you in August. 
Yours &e, 
T. A. CULBERTSON. 


June 5th. Dr Evans came in the boat last night & has read this letter; he 
says that he will suggest no changes—his impressions were very much as mine & 
is sorry that his notes of last year are not here to compare with mine. He is 
bound for another exploration & I am sorry that it dont suit my plans to go with 
him.—Please dont make any publication of these notes nor quote them as au- 
thority until after you see me. Today we leave for the Yellowstone. All well. 


241 William McFunn Baird (1817-72), the oldest brother of Spencer F. Baird, was edu- 
eated at Dickinson College, Carlisle, Pa. (See Dall, 1915, pp. 5, 41, and passim.) 


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APPENDIX 3 


ALEXANDER HARVEY AND THE “OPPOSITION” 
COMPANY 


References for Harvey and the company of which he was a partner have been 
given in footnote 202, page 106. Since no history has been written of the affairs 
of these people, the articles reprinted below will give some idea of their activities 
during 1850 and will add to the general knowledge of conditions and events in 
the Upper Missouri Country at that time. The first of these news stories is from 
the Missouri Republican, April 5, 1850: the second from the Missouri Republican, 
May 14, 1950 (this article was substantially reprinted in the Weekly Reveille, 
May 20, 1850, p. 4218) ; the third from the Missouri Republican, May 17, 1850. 


(1) 
FROM THE UPPER MISSOURI. 


Mr. A. Pike Vasquez and Mr. C. Dauphin arrived in this city last evening, on 
the steamer Haydee. They came by express from Medicine Creek, a trading post 
of the Union Fur Company, forty miles below Fort Pierre. 

These gentlemen left their post on the 11th March, and report no snow on the 
Plains. The weather was unusually pleasant on the route, and the winter 
remarkably mild. 

On the 11th November last, as Mr. Dauphin, with a company of ten traders, 
was returning from a trading expedition, his camp at the forks of White river was 
attacked about 8 o’clock at night, by a war party of Pawnees. The engagement 
was a sudden and severe one. Mr. Dauphin was badly wounded, and in this 
condition his men deserted him. The Indians overpowered him, and took from 
him all his goods: he made his escape from them. 

From Black Feet Fort down to Fort Lookout, the Buffalo were plenty, and 
were particularly numerous on the north side of the Missouri. The Sioux Indians 
had collected, in bands of from fifty to one hundred lodges, extending from the 
Chayenne river to Fort Lookout, for the purpose of hunting these animals. 

In January last, while the Sioux Indians were engaged in hunting buffalo, on 
the Forks of the Chayenne river, they were attacked by a party of Crow Indians, 
and eight warriors were killed on each side. The Crows then stole from their 
enemy one hundred and fifty head of horses. The Sioux were making prepara- 
tions to retaliate upon them. 

The Yanctons were also making preparations for war with their old enemies, 
the Pawnees, in consequence of depredations committed by them. Two parties 
had already started on this expedition, and the war will, probably, be continued 
throughout the season. There is reason to fear that the California emigrants 
going up the north side of the Platte River, may fall in with some of the war 
parties of Indians, and be annoyed by them. 

Maj. Hatten, the agent for the Sioux Indians, may be expected in this city the 
last of this month. 


147 


148 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BuULL. 147 


The Union Fur Company have been very successful in their business the past 
year, and they will bring down four thousand packs of robes. 


(2) 
FROM THE PLAINS. 


THREE THOUSAND MILES UP THE MISSOURI RIVER. 


Yesterday we had the pleasure of shaking by the hand Mr. Alexander M. Ha[r]- 
vey, who stands in the West as the great and principal trader in the Black Feet 
country. His sowbriquet, we believe, is the Chief of the Black Feet. His last 
station was at Fort Campbell, about twenty miles below the Falls of the Missouri, 
where he has spent several years. He is among the most familiar men in the 
mountains with the character and languages of the Indians, and to his long 
practical acquaintance has added a just appreciation of the honor and respon- 
sibility of any situation which his engagements may impose upon him. In the 
present expedition into the States, his patience and perseverance have been put to 
the full test, but he has proved himself equal to the difficulties and dangers which 
he had to encounter. 

Mr. Harvey left Fort Campbell on the 2d of April, in a large skiff or yawl, in 
company with Jas. Russell, Toussaint Roland and John Oregon, (a Spaniard.) 
The skiff contained their entire outfit, and this, be it remembered, was for a 
voyage from the vicinity of the Falls of the Missouri to the settlements on the 
boundary of this State, a distance of nearly two thousand five hundred miles. 
From the place of their departure to the mouth of the Yellow Stone, their trip 
was greatly impeded by the ice and high water. It was not floating ice, but the 
ice shore bound, and frequently, with the high water, interposing serious obstacles 
to their progress. They arrived at Fort William (mouth of the Yellow Stone,) 
on the 13th. Shortly after leaving Fort Campbell they were assailed by a war 
party of Assineboins and Crows, who evidently had hostile intentions. Mr. H.’s 
boat was in the river, and he was Summoned to come ashore; but he understood 
too well their character and purposes to do so. He refused. The Assineboins 
opened a fire upon him; but he called to the Crows, some of whom he recognized, 
and the only damage done was the passing of a ball or two through the boat. 

At Fort William, he took on board his boat two other men, Baptiste Lord, 
a half breed from St. Peters, or that vicinity, and ——————— Trombley, formerly 
of Cahokia. They left the Fort on the 16th. That night it commenced snowing, 
and continued, without intermission, until the morning of the 19th. At the 
Horse Head Prairie, a place where a large number of horses were drowned, 
they were assailed by a war party of Sioux. Mr. Harvey and his party had 
encamped for the night on the west side of the Missouri, when they heard the 
approach of the Sioux Indians. Mr. H. and the half breed, Lord, taking the 
position of guard, ordered all their traps into the boat, and as the war party 
pressed upon them they retreated to the river; when at the bank they jumped 
into the boat, and hastily pushed for the opposite shore, where they spent the 
night. The next morning, as they passed down the river, they discovered that 
the same war party had taken possession of a trading house on the bank, 
recently vacated by the traders—had built fires, and used all the signals likely 
to entrap strangers to a trading post. As Mr. H. passed it, suspecting the 
deception, he and Lord sent a couple of balls into the building, and instantly 
the ruse was developed, by the whole war party turning out. Their demonstra- 
tions of friendship were very strong and loud, but Mr. H. did not deem it 
prudent to trust himself in their power. 


McDrrMorr] CULBERTSON JOURNAL 149 


The party arrived at the mouth of Medicine Creek and there took on board 
Pierre Blais, a well known trader among the Indian tribes. At this time, the 
whole party consisted of seven persons. They left the mouth of the Creek on 
the last day of April, and on the first day of May—a fatal day in this city— 
they attempted to cross the river at the “Three Islands,’ about one hundred 
miles below Medicine Creek, about eight o’clock in the morning. The ice was 
thick on the banks of the river and on the oars of the boat, and this being one 
of the widest parts of the river, they were struck with a gale of wind, so sud- 
denly and violently, that they could make no provision against it. In an instant, 
the boat was swamped and filled with water, they being at the time nearly in 
the middle of the river. The whole party were immersed in the river. Mr. 
Harvie instantly attempted to save them, by turning the skiff over, sacrificing 
all its contents, and urging them to hold on to it. In this, for a time he was 
successful. Toussaint Roland seized his bag and made for the main shore, 
but before he reached it the wind and waves carried him back into the stream 
and he was drowned. John Oregon and ——————— Trombley were swept to 
the skiff by Mr. Harvey, but before it drifted to the sand bank on which it 
was landed, they perished from the effects of the cold. Pierre Blais was be- 
numbed by the cold, but by the exertions of Mr. Harvey and the others, was 
got across the keel, now uppermost. He had not energy enough to keep the 
vital spark alive, and when they grounded the skiff on the bar he was lying 
with his feet on the one side, and his head on the other in the water. Exertions 
were made to get him ashore, but they were unavailing. In fact, the survivers 
were not in a condition to do more than save themselves. A short time after- 
wards, the current carried off the body of Blais. The skiff, by the exertions 
of Harvey, was run hard ashore on the sand bar. The Half Breed Lord man- 
aged to get ashore, but he was scarcely able to crawl, from the effects of the 
cold. The wind was blowing strong on the sand bar, where there was not the 
slightest protection, and before he had walked twenty steps from the water 
he laid down and died. James Russell scrambled ashore from the skiff, and 
immediately crawled, not being able to walk, to a hollow which the wind had 
scooped out of the sand. In this, he was somewhat protected from the piercing 
blast. Mr. Harvey, having secured the skiff, got ashore, but was so benumbed 
that he could not walk or stand erect. By great exertion, he got where Lord 
was, and found him dead, and then he went in search of Russell, found him 
and got into the hole with him. There he kept Russell from going to sleep, and 
after a time they both began to recover. Soon after, they began to look about 
for their safety. On turning over their boat and bailing it out with Russell’s 
hat, they found a steel for striking fire, which by accident was hooked into 
one of the boat’s timbers. This and an oar was all they had. They broke the 
oar in two and pulled for the main shore, where there was timber; there they 
succeeded in raising a fire, and remained during the night. The next morning 
the two survivors, without any provisions whatever, resumed their journey down 
stream. About eight miles below, they found Mr. H’s trunk and a bottle of 
coffee—further on they picked up a sack of coffee, and went ashore and made 
what to them was a rich breakfast, on coffee alone. They pursued their way 
down the river, and in two days and a half, about 20 miles above the Ver- 
million, they overtook three Mackinaw boats, which had preceded them. From 
these they got supplies and two men, and proceeded to Liberty Landing, where 
they arrived on the 9th inst., and in this city yesterday evening. 

We have thus fully noticed this trip of Mr. Harvey, because it is one of the 
most eventful ever made upon our “inland Seas,” and yet no more than might 
oceur to any persons similarly situated. 

890780—-52——_11 


150 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [Buu, 147 
(3) 
LATE FROM COUNCIL BLUFFS. 


The fine steamer Saranak arrived yesterday morning, with thirty mountain 
men, and 600 packs of buffalo robes. The men reached Council Bluffs in 
Mackinaw boats, where the cargoes of two were discharged on board the 
Saranak. This is the same party with which Mr. Harvey traveled; and in fact, 
the boats and their cargo belong to the Union Fur Company, of which Mr. H. 
is a partner. About four hundred miles above Council Bluffs, one of the most 
valuable boats was snagged and sunk, and a greater portion of the cargo badly 
damaged, if not entirely lost. The men succeeded in saving two tier of the 
robes, but the remainder, with a good many trinkets in the shape of dried buffalo 
tongues, fancy robes, mocasins, &e., belonging to the crew, went down, and after 
rescuing all in their power, the boat was abandoned. Some of these hardy men 
have spent the greater part of their lives among the Indians and the mountains 
of the Northwest Territory, and one old fellow, who has followed trapping and 
trading with the Indians for nearly thirty years, is now on his third voyage to 
St. Louis during the time. We learn that the boat lost was fully insured. Six 
hundred packs is between forty and fifty thousand robes [sic]: truly a valuable 
cargo. 

The Saranak left Council Bluffs on the 10th instant. There were then en- 
camped at Kanesville, and in the circumference of ten miles round, between eight 
and ten thousand emigrants, with about three thousand wagons. 

The weather was moderating, but there was no grass, and very little sign 
of vegetation. Grain and food of every kind was very scarce and commanding 
enormous prices. Corn and oats selling at $2.50 per bushel. Flour at $7 per 
100 lbs. or $14 per bbl. A lot of one hundred sacks of flour, bought on specula- 
tion by the officers of the Saranak at St. Joseph, sold upon arrival at $7 per 100 
lbs. These prices would not continue long, however, as supplies were expected 
every day from below. The Saranak met five boats between St. Joseph and 
the Bluffs, all having corn, flour, &c., on board. The Saluda and Robert Campbell, 
both bound up, were met at Fort Kearny. The Lightfoot, at Iowa Point; J. L. 
McLean, at Dallas, and the Mary Blane at Savannah landing. It is thought 
that these boats will carry up enough to supply the immediate wants of the 
emigrants, who have made every preparation to start so soon as the grass is up 
sufficient to afford sustenance to their animals. 

Major Barrow, an Indian Agent, came passenger in the steamer Saranak to 
St. Joseph. This gentleman reports that the small pox had made its appearance 
among one or two companies of Californians, encamped ten or fifteen miles from 
Kanesville, and in the course of a few days six of their number died with it. 
A few cases had also broken out in Kanesville, but the matter was kept very 
still. This gentleman gives it as his opinion that unless speedily checked, it will 
carry off a great many emigrants and Indians—among the latter no cases are 
reported as yet. 

The Mormons congregated in and around Kanesville are legion, and it is 
generally understood that the first grand cavaleade for Salt Lake and the State 
of Deseret will take up the line of march about the 15th of June. Thousands 
have joined their standard this season, and much harmony is said to exist, things 
moving on smoothly in regard to matters of church and state. The officers 
of the S. report the Missouri in good navigable stage to the highest point, and 
rising slowly when they left the Bluffs, with seven to eight feet in the channel 
all the way down. 


APPENDIX 4 
THE ST. ANGE 


The steamer St. Ange, which Culbertson had occasion to mention twice, had 
a life of some interest. On the occasion of its launching the Missouri Republican 
(March 19, 1849) gave it several editorial paragraphs: 

“Captain LaBarge has just built a beautiful boat for the Missouri trade. 
The hull was constructed by Messrs. Brooks, Holliday & Co., on their Marine 
Railways, and, considering the state of the past weather, she has been built with 
extraordinary rapidity. She is a fine and staunch boat, measuring 170 feet 
straight, and 180 on deck; 28 feet beam, and 6 feet hold; 23 feet wheels with 
10 feet buckets. She has two engines with 19 inch cylinders and 6 feet stroke; 
2 boilers 28 feet long and 42 inches diameter. 

“Her cabin is fitted up in a neat and commodious manner, having 82 state 
rooms with [ber]ths, and in all her other appointments and arrangements, taste 
and comfort have been studied. The engines were built by Messrs. Gaty, McCune 
& Glassey, and the joiners’ work by Mr. Thomas Jordon, and excellent workman- 
ship has been displayed in the construction of the cabin. The painting was 
done by Messrs. Wilgus & Watson. She is nearly complete, has all her machin- 
ery on board, and most of it up, and was let into the water from the ways so 
easily that it was scarcely perceptible. 

“She is estimated to measure 250 tons, but will carry about 500 tons. When 
light, she will draw about 30 inches. She is owned on board by Captain LaBarge, 
Mr. Stiles, the clerk, and Mr. Brant. There is no captain on the Western water 
more highly esteemed than Capt. LaBarge. He is a St. Louisan born and has 
been familiar with the river from early life.” 

In the spring of 1850 the St. Ange was running regularly in the Saint Louis- 
Weston trade. Nearly 2 months after Culbertson saw her the St. Ange made 
a trip to Saint Joseph carrying among other passengers the Hon. Henry J. Coke, 
brother of the Earl of Leicester; his voyage (May 28-June 8) is described in his 
Ride Over the Rocky Mountains (1852, pp. 81-88). On its return to Saint Louis 
the boat enters our narrative again, for on June 8, 1850, the Missouri Republican 
carried the news that: “The steamer St. Ange has been chartered by the Union 
Fur Company and will start for the mouth of the Yellow Stone on Wednesday 
next. She will carry up a number of men, and a considerable amount of goods, 
provisions, ammunition, &c. Capt. LaBarge goes in command, and will, no doubt, 
make a safe and speedy trip. This is the second boat which has been chartered 
this season to go so long a voyage. The steamer El Paso is now on her way 
up, and when last heard from, she had reached Council Bluffs in safety.” 

There is no other mention of the St. Ange until Culbertson saw her below 
Fort Pierre on the 29th of June. On her return 3 weeks later, although she could 
not claim to beat the distance record of the H7Z Paso, she was credited with the 
“quickest trip on record.” The Missouri Republican (July 20, 1850) gave a 
report of her trip: 

“The fine steamer St. Ange landed at the wharf yesterday, only 10 days from 
Fort Union, at the mouth of the Yellow Stone. By this arrival we have no 


151 


152 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BuLL., 147 


news of importance. Four California emigrants were taken on board at Fort 
Kearny, direct from Larimie, at which point they turned back, on account of 
sickness. These men belong to Illinois, and represent the cholera, and other 
diseases, quite prevalent among the trains on the road between the two places. 
They had, however, no reliable information respecting the progress of the sick- 
ness, or the number of deaths. Asa body, the emigration they say is progressing 
as well as might be expected. The St. Ange left the mouth of the Yellow Stone, 
or Fort Union, on the 9th inst. The river was then swelling slightly from recent 
heavy rains, with a fair stage ef water all the way down. Weather warm and 
pleasant, and the crops quite promising in the vicinity of Council Bluffs, but the 
wheat not generally as good as anticipated, in consequence of the wet. Harvest- 
ing had commenced in the vicinity of all the upper towns, and even as far up 
as the Bluffs. 

“There were very few persons at Fort Union or at any of the other posts along 
the river. The health of the traders was generally good, and there had been 
no serious disturbances among the Indians. 

“The boat left this city on the 13th of June. She reached the place of her 
destination on the Sth of July. Started to return the 9th, and reached this city 
about 1 P. M. yesterday, making the run in 36 days, being the quickest voyage 
ever made going or returning, and the entire trip in nearly twenty days less 
time than it was ever performed before. The return cargo consists of about 
eight hundred packs of buffalo robes, besides skins and furs. In the way of 
curiosities we noticed several mountain birds, a black-tail deer, a buffalo calf, 
and other wild varmints on board. The boat, we understand was chartered 
by R. & W. Campbell and P. Chouteau, Jr., & Co. [sic], at $6,000 for the voyage, 
and from the time occupied and the great preservation of every thing on board 
we should think it a very profitable trip.” (The boat obviously would not have 
been chartered jointly by business rivals. The confusion here may arise from 
the fact that the steamer Robert Campbell a few weeks earlier had brought 
Chouteau employees and furs down from Council Bluffs. See footnote 167.) 

It is curious that with all this information available to him Chittenden in his 
life of La Barge should have dismissed the year 1850 with half a dozen lines. 

Perhaps the most completely reported trip of the St. Ange up the Missouri 
was that leaving Saint Louis on June 7, 1851, for De Smet was on board (Chit- 
tenden and Richardson, 1905, vol. 2, pp. 638-652) ; Kurz went on board at Saint 
Joseph (1937, pp. 69-73) ; and, of course, the trip figures in Chittenden’s life 
of La Barge (1903, vol. 1, pp. 189-198). Since this trip has nothing to do with 
Thaddeus Culbertson’s narrative, it will not be detailed here. It is interesting, 
perhaps, to know that among other passengers were Alexander Culbertson, 
Honoré Picotte, and John Evans, the geologist. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 


ABEL, ANNIE HELOISE, EpDITOor. 
1932. Chardon’s Journal at Fort Clark, 1834-39. S. Dak. Dept. Hist. Pierre. 
ALLIS, SAMUEL. 

1887. Forty years among the Indians and the Eastern borders of Nebraska. 

Nebr. Hist. Soc. Trans. and Reports, vol. 2, pp. 133-166. 
ANDERSON, Mrs. E. 

1919. At Bellevue in the thirties. Nebr. Hist. Soc. Proc. and Coll., vol. 19, 

pp: 12—Wi. 
ARNOLD, THOMAS. 
1845. Sermons preached in the chapel of Rugby School, with an address 
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AUDUBON, JOHN JAMES, and BACHMAN, JOHN. 

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153 


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158 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY [BULL, 147 


MAPS 


CLarkK. A map of Lewis and Clark’s track across the western portions of North 
America . . . compiled from the original drawing by William Clark. Jn Coues, 
1893, vol. 4. 

Bvans. Map showing the position of the Bad Lands or Mauvaises Terres of 
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vol. 11. H.R. Doe. 91, 33d Congr., 2d Sess. 

WarreN. Section of map compiled in Pacific Railroad Office with additions de- 
signed to illustrate Lt. Warren’s Report of military reconnaissances in the 
Dacota Country, 1885. Jn Warren, 1856. (Reprinted herein as map 1.) 


INDEX 


Academy of Natural Sciences of Phila- 
delphia, 1,1 n.,2n.,3 

Adams, Richard, 13 n. 

Allen, J. F., 15 n. 

American Fork (Creek), 50, 50 n. 

American Fur Company, 4 n., 10, 11, 54 
n., 119; amount of buffalo robes 
brought down the Missouri by, 
90 n., 91 n. 

Andes Lake, 49, 49 n. 

Angelo (voyageur), 15 n., 47 

Antelopes, 31, 59, 60, 84, 143 

Antoine (voyageur), 15 n. 

Apple Creek, 92, 92 n. 

Aricaree (Ree) Creek, 58, 58 n., 67 

Audubon, John James, mentioned, 36 
n., 64 n., 86, 88 n., 128; cited, 
55 n.3; regarding name of James 
River, 44 n. 


Bad Lands. See Mauvaises Terres. 

Bad River (Wahpa Shicha, Teton, false 
Little Missouri), 56 n., 58, 58 n., 
59, 66, 69 

Baird, Spencer F., 2, 3 n., 66, 66 n.; 
quoted regarding fossils given to 
Academy of Natural Sciences, 2 
n.; regarding Culbertson’s trip, 
3; regarding Culbertson’s collec- 
tion, 3; letter to Leidy quoted, 
4-5; gains permission to publish 
Culbertson Journal, 5; his edi- 
tion of Journal discussed, 6-7; 
introductory note to Appendix 1 
quoted, 123 

Bangs, see Beigne. 

panes, S. D., cited regarding Sarpy, 

8 n. 

Bardotte, Charles, 13 n. 

Barrow, Maj. , 150 

Bears, grizzly, 57, 114 

Bear River, 63, 63 n., 141, 142 

Beaver, 107 

Beigne (Bangs), 35, 35 n. 

Bellevue House, 28 n. 

Bellevue Post, 8, 28, 28 n., 121 

Big Bend, see Great Bend. 

Big Hole Creek, 57, 57 n. 

Bighorn, 64, 142, 148 

Big Muddy River, 108, 108 n., 110 n. 

Big Sioux River 34, 34 n., 35, 86 

Big Tarkio River, 8, 24 

Bijou. See Bissonet, Louis. 

Bijou Hills, 50 n. 


890780—52 


Birds observed by Culbertson, 70; wild 

geese, 20, 107; snow bird, 57; cur- 

lew, 60; mocking bird, 69; thrush, 

69, 70; owl, 73; sandcrane, 100; 

swallows, 120 

and Mammalia collected by 

Harris, list of, 128-131 

Bissonet, Louis, dit Bijou, 50 n. 

Black Earth River, 48, 43 n. 

Black Hills, 57, 68, 65 n., 141 

Black Weed (racine noir), 85, 35 n. 

Blanchette, Louis, 16 n. 

Boats, Mackinaw, 11, 13, 87, 90, 150 

Boller, Henry A., cited regarding Hodg- 
kiss, 72 n. 

Boonville, Mo., 8, 17 

Botanical observations, 4, 4n., 68, 69, 70, 
73, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, 103, 108, 
117-118, 119; list of plants col- 
lected, 124-127 

Boudin, 102-103, 103 n. 

Bouis, A. R., 106 n. 

Boyer River, 30, 30 n. 

Brierly, T. H., 11 n., 110, 110 n. 

Bruguier, Theophile, 34, 34 n., 35, 38 

Buffalo 13, 42, 48, 45, 46, 48, 49, 90-91, 
92, 94, 95, 102, 113-114, 147; 
taste of, 44, 47, 102-103; robes 
brought down the Missouri in 
1850, 91, 91 n. 

Bull Creek, 60, 60 n. 

Bute Bijoux (Bijou Hills), 50, 50 n. 


Birds 


Campbell, Robert, 106 n. 

Cannon Ball River, 92, 92 n. 

Cattell, William Cassaday, 18, 18 n. 

Cerré, Pascal, 36 n. 

Chain of Rocks, 54, 54 n. 

Chambersburg Academy, 2 

Chappell, Phil. E., cited regarding HI 
Paso, 11 n.; regarding Assini- 
boine, 109 n. 

Chase, Amos, 30, 30 n., 31 

Chittenden, Hiram Martin, cited regard- 
ing Assiniboine, 109 n. 

Chouteau Creek, 49, 49 n. 

Chouteau, Francois, 20 n. 

Chouteau, Pierre, 54 n. 

Clark, Malcolm, 14, 55 n., 104, 104 n., 
109, 111, 114, 116, 117, 118; cited 
on Indian customs, 111-112, 134 

Coke, Henry J., 18 n., 23 n., 151 

Cotton Wood Creek, 58, 58 n. 


159 


160 


Coues, Elliott, cited regarding Vermilion 
Post, 34 n., 36 n., 40 n. 

Council Bluffs, lowa (Louse Point, Point 
du (Cou); 14,5265) 26) n+) 20,28: 
28 n. 

Council Bluffs, Iowa (present city), see 
Kanesville 

Cow Creek, 50, 50 n. 

Cromwell, 543) 

Crow Creek, 51, 51 n. 

Culbertson, Alexander, 1, 1 n., 2, 8, 13, 
Ilse OP OEY OG 27 ise Sey aie 
35, 36, 37, 39, 40, 41, 42, 44, 45, 
46, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 68, 
69, 72, 84, 86, 89, 89 n., 90, 95, 
104; 4 ne 1165 1 1Gomes dis2) 152) 
biographical sketch of, 2 n.; share 
of expenses of trip, 3; generosity 
of, 21, 55, 68, 104; trouble with 
Rees, 96 

Culbertson, Annie Dunean, 2, 15 n. 

Culbertson, Ferdinand, 4 n., 12, 13, 14, 
105 n., 109, 117; letter regarding 
Journal quoted, 5-6; collection of 
skins made by, 105 

Culbertson, Frances Stuart, 2 

Culbertson, James, 15, 15 n. 

Culbertson, Joseph, 1, 2, 2 n. 

Culbertson, Mary Duncan, 39 n. 

Culbertson, Mary Finley, 2 

Culbertson, Michael Simpson, 2, 39, 39 n. 

Culbertson, Robert, 2, 15 n. 

Culbertson, Thaddeus A., interest in 

bones and fossils, 1, 2-3; bio- 

graphical sketch, 2; importance 

of collection made on trip, 2-5; 

resumé of trip in Smithsonian re- 

port, 3; death of, 3; collects spec- 

imens, 3, 4, 4 n., 9, 42-48, 49, 57, 

60, 64, 66, 68, 69, 78, 78, 81, 85, 

87, 90, 91, 94, 95, 100, 103, 105, 

108, 110, 118, 119, 121, 141, 144; 

leaves St. Louis, 15; on board 

Mary Blane, 15-20; at St. Joseph, 

21-22; overland to Ft. Pierre, 22— 

55; at Ft. Pierre, 55, 67-85; trip 

to Bad Lands, 55-67, 139-145; up 

the Missouri to Ft. Clark, 85-95 ; 

at Ft. Clark and Ree village, 95— 

99; to Ft. Union, 99-104; at Ft. 

Union, 105-106; to Milk River, 

106-114; return trip, 114-121 

, Books read by on expedition, 18, 

19, 24, 27, 28, 28 n., 38, 69-70, 

71-72, 73, 74, 75, 84, 84 n., 144 

, Journal, history of, vii—viii 5-7; 

importance of, 7-8; summarized, 

8-14 

, List of plants collected by, 124— 

127 

, Tabular View of Indian Tribes 

of Upper Missouri, 1382-137 

, Report to Baird of trip to Bad 

Lands, 1389-145 


BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY 


[BULL. 147] 


Dakota River, see Riviere @ Jacques. 

Dall, William Healy, cited regarding 
specimens collected by Culbert- 
son for Smithsonian, 3 n., 4 n. 

Dauphin, C., attacked by Pawnees, 147 

Deer, 18, 92 

Denig, Edwin Thompson, 4 n., 6 n., 12, 
80 n., 105 n., 106; cited regard- 
ing Indian game, 69 n.; regarding 
burial customs, 85 n.; regarding 
Indian treatment of old, 93 n.; 
regarding Elk Horn Prairie, 109 
n.; collection of skins made by, 


105 
Desautel, , 14, 184, 134 n. 
Deshau, A dias 40, 


De Smet, Pierre Jean, 8, 152; cited re- 
garding Culbertson Journal, 6 n.; 
regarding Bad Lands of the Mis- 
souri, 72 n.; regarding Evans, 86 
n.; regarding Elk Horn Prairie, 
115 n.; regarding Desautel, 134 


n. 

Duck, 42, 46, 47 

Durack, John, 10, 11 n., 12, 13, 89, 89 n., 
114; opinion on rise of river 102; 
his log of Hl Paso quoted 11, 12- 
1313 mn. 


Hik, 13, 75, 90, 108, 110-111 

Elk Horn Prairie, 13, 108-109, 109 n., 
alalsy, alata say. 

El Paso Point, 114, 114 n. 

Emigrants to California, 11, 147, 150, 
152 

English (Irish?) Grove, 24 

Evans, John, 2, 5, 11, 144, 145, 152; cited 
regarding fossil turtles, 63 n., re- 
garding Bad Lands, 65 n.; dis- 
cusses expedition with Culbert- 
son, 86-87 


Finley, James, 2 
Five Barrel (Keg) Creek, 28, 28 n. 
Floyd, Charles, grave of, 33 
Floyd’s Bluff, 9, 38, 33 n. 
Floyd’s River, 33, 33 n. 
Forts 
Benton, 114, 114 n. 
Berthold, 12, 100, 100 n., 117 
Campbell, 148 
Clark, 12, 95, 95 n., 117 
Lookout, 104, 104 n., 147 
Mandan, 117, 117 n. 
Pierre, 3, 9, 10, 54, 55; described by 
Palliser, 54 n.; by Culbert- 
son, 75-77 ; Culbertson at, 67— 
85, 119; long. and lat. of, 88 
Union, 12, 104, 105, 105 n., 106, 116, 
152 
William 105, 105 n., 106 106 n., 148 
Fossils, see petrifactions. 
Freeman’s Lake, 112, 112 n. 


INDEX 


Frontier accommodations, 25, 26, 29, 
30-31, 32-33, 34, 35, 37, 41, 42, 
45, 46, 48-49, 53 


Galpin, Charles, 4 n., 10, 69, 69 n., 71, 
75, 82, 83, 84, 85, 132 

Geological observations, 43, 57, 58, 60- 
66, 78, 89, 90, 92, 94, 99-100, 102, 
103-104, 107, 108, 116-117, 120— 
121, 140-141 

Glasgow, Mo., 18, 18 n. 

Glasgow, James, 18 n. 

Grand River, 90, 90 n. 

Glime, E. H., 18 n. 

Great Bend, 87, 102, 107 

Grindstone Creek, 58 n., 67 

Grindstone Hills, 58, 58 n. 


Hamilton, Maj. , 90, 90 n. 

Harris, Edward, 123; list of birds and 
Mammalia found by, 128-131 

Harvey, Alexander, 106, 106 n., 150; at- 
tacked by Indians, 148; in boat 
wreck, 149 

Hatten, Maj. , 147 

Hayden, F. V., cited regarding Big Hole 
Creek, 57 n.; regarding Pineau’s 
Spring, 59 n.; regarding Sage 
Creek, 61 n.; regarding Bear 
Creek, 63 n.; regarding Rees, 
95 n. 

Heart River, 92 n., 117 

Heart River Island, 92 

Hermann, Mo., 8, 16, 16 n. 

Hodge, Frederick W., cited regarding 
Santee, 36 n. 

Hodgkiss, William D., 10, 72, 72 n.; 
quoted regarding Indian dogs, 
74; regarding source of Yellow- 
stone, 75; regarding taste of dog 
meat, 85; regarding Indian treat- 
ment of old, 92 

Hog Weed Creek, 33-34 

Holladay, Ben, 20 n. 

Horse Guard, Chief (Crow), 106, 106 n. 

Horse Head Prairie, 148 

Howard, Joseph, 57, 58, 59, 60, 104, 104 


n. 
Hunting, 46-47, 84, 94, 110-111 


Independence, Mo., 19 n. 

Independence Landing, Mo., 8, 19 

Indians (Upper Missouri Tribes), Cul- 
bertson’s interest in, 10; at Kan- 
sas Village, 20; dogs among, 41, 
42, 43, 46, 74, 83; rulers among, 
56; religion of, 56; war tactics 
of, 56-57; returns expected for 
gifts, 71; treatment of infirm, 92— 
93, 93 n., 101; reason for popu- 
lation change among, 102; sign 
language among, 111; politeness 
of, 118-119; difference in lan- 
guage used by men and women, 
119; tabular view of, 182-137 


161 


Indians (Upper Missouri Tribes )—Con. 


, Aricaree (Ree), at Fort Clark, 
12, 95-99; crops raised by, 95 n. 
133 ; appearance of, 96; language 
of, 96; character of, 96, 99; 
lodges of, 97; musical instru- 
ments of, 97; feast with, 97-98; 
place of residence, 133; disease 
ea 133; tabular view of, 134, 
130 

, Assiniboine, form of worship, 
56; taboo against wife’s parents, 
79, 79 n.; expression of grief over 
death, 85 n.; at Fort Union, 105, 
105 n., 106; appearance of, 106; 
trouble with Crows, 106; place 
of residence, 134; tabular view 
of, 184, 137; attack Harvey, 148 
, Blackfoot, customs in regard to 
dead, 111-112; treatment of 
wives, 112; adopted relations 
among, 115; place of residence, 
134; divisions among, 134; tabu- 
lar view of, 184, 1387 

, Cheyenne, place of residence, 
133; language of, 133; cholera 
among, 133; tabular view of, 133, 
Bits 

, Cree, 105, 105 n. 

, Crow, at Fort Union, 101, 105- 
106; trouble with Assiniboines, 
106; place of residence, 134; char- 
acter of, 134; tabular view of, 
134, 187; attack Harvey, 148 

, Gros Ventre (Hidatsa, Her- 
antsa, Minitari), form of wor- 
ship, 56; billiard game popular 
with, 70 n.; village of at Fort 
Berthold, 100-101; appearance 
of, 101; residence at Fort Clark, 
134; bands among, 134; tabular 
view of, 134, 137 

, Mandan, smallpox among, 99, 
99 n., 183; language of, 133; in- 
corporated with Aricarees, 133; 
tabular view of, 1383-134, 137 

, Ottoe, at Bellevue, 29 

, Pawnee, attack Dauphin, 147; 
conflict with Yanctons, 147 

, Sioux, 11, 55; squaws at Willow 
River, 33; wives of Bruguier, 34, 
35; war tactics of, 56-57; games 
among, 69, 69 n., 70-71; dress of, 
73, 76; dance of, 73-74; singing 
of, 73-74; burial customs of, 77; 
political organization of, 78; se- 
cret societies among, 78-79, 182; 
religion among, 79 ; taboo of wife’s 
parents, 79-80; attitude towards 
women, 80; mutual defense pact 
among, 80-81; language of, 81, 
96; reason for increase in popu- 
lation, 102; tabular view of made 
under inspection of Galpin, 75; 
shown to Picotte, 90; tabular 


162 


Indians (Upper Missouri Tribes )—Con. 
view of, 182-138, 185-186; wealth 
of, 182-1383; place of residence, 
132; subdivisions of, 182; names 
among, 133, 135, 186; war with 
Crows, 147; attack Harvey, 148 
, Sioux (Blackfoot), feast for at 
Fort Pierre, 81-83; character of 
braves, 82, 83 ; dress of, 82; polite- 
ness of, 82, 83, 84, 85; dog feast 
of, 84-85; burial customs of, 85; 
tabular view of, 132, 135 
, Sioux (Santee), 36, 36 n. 
, Sioux (Teton), 57; tabular view 
of, 152, 1385, 136 
, Sioux (Yancton), at Vermilion 
Post, 36, 36 n.; on way to Yanc- 
ton Trading House, 41, 42, 43, 44, 
45, 46, 47, 48, 50-51; mixture of 
savage and civilized, 52; feast 
for at Trading House, 53; tabu- 
lar view of, 132, 135; plan war 
with Pawnees, 174 
, Sioux (Yanctonnans or Yanc- 
tonai), tabular view of, 132, 135 
Iowa Point (Louse Point, Council 
Bluffs), 28 n. 
Irish Grove, 24 n. 


James River, see Riviére 4 Jacques. 

Jefferson City, Mo., 8, 17, 17 n.; state 
eapitol at described, 17 

Jewett, Capt. William C., 16 n. 

Jim (cook), 15 n., 16, 27, 46, 47, 73 


Kane, Thomas Leiper, 29 n. 

Kanesville, Iowa (formerly Miller’s 
Hollow, now Council Bluffs), 8, 
28, 29, 29 n., 150 

Kansas, Village of (Kansas City), Mo., 
8, 20, 20 n. 

Keg Creek, see Five Barrel Creek. 

Kipp, James, 14 n., 100, 100 n., 134 

Kurz, Rudolph Friederich, 8, 152; cited 
regarding St. Joseph, 21 n.; re- 
garding McDonald, 21 n.; regard- 
ing Robidoux, 22 n.; regarding 
Savannah, 28 n.; regarding Iowa 
Point, 28 n.; regarding Bruguier, 
34 n.; regarding Schlegel, 36 n.; 
regarding Indian game, 70 n.; 
regarding Evans, 86 n.; regarding 
Picotte, 88 n.; regarding Fort 
William, 105 n.; regarding Har- 
vey, 106 n.; regarding Meldrum, 
116 n. 


La Barge, Joseph, 8, 18 n., 120, 120 n., 
151 


La Chapelle Creek, 54, 54 n. 

Larpenteur, Charles, 7, 14, 30 n., 36 n., 
55 n., 104 n., 121, 121 n. 

L’Eau Qui Court (Niobara River), 120, 
120 n., 144 


BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY 


[BULL. 147] 


Leidy, Joseph, 3; cited regarding speci- 
mens from Bad Lands, 1n.; asked 
to undertake memoir, 4-5; 
sources of study given, 5 

Leslie, Eliza, 84, 84 n. 

Lexington, Mo., 8, 19, 19 n. 

Liberty Landing, Mo., 8, 19, 19 n. 

Little Bear, Chief (Sioux), 70, 82, 83 

Little Cheyenne River, 88 n. 

Little Dry Creek (Two Thousand Mile 
Creek, now Red Water Creek), 
110, 110 n., 113 

Little Knife River, 102, 102 n., 103 

Little Missouri River (true), 101, 101 n., 
102 


Little Missouri River (false), see Bad 
River. 

Little Muddy (Bourbeuse) Creek, 107, 
107 n. 

Little Sioux River, 30, 30 n., 31 

Little Tarkio River, 8, 24 

Lord, Baptiste, 148, 149 

Louse Point, see Council Bluffs. 

Lynch, W. F., Expedition to Dead Sea 
descriptions compared to Bad 
Lands, 69-70, 71, 72, 144 


Mad Bull (Cheyenne), 133 

Mansion House (St. Joseph), 21 

Marks, C. R., cited regarding Bruguier, 

4 n. 

Martha’s River, see Big Muddy River. 

Mauvaises Terres (Bad Lands) of 
White River, 8, 9, 59, 60-66, 65 
n., 189-144; compared with 
Lynch’s description of Jordan, 
70, 71-72, 144 

Mauvaises Terres of Missouri River, 72, 
(21. 

Maximilian, Prince of Weid, cited re- 
garding Moreau River, 89 n.; re- 
garding Elk Horn Prairie, 109 n.; 
regarding Milk River, 114 n. 

McClellan, John H. B., 1 n. 

McCoy, John Calvin, 20 n. 

McDonald (Duncan?), 21, 21 n., 22, 121 

McDonnell, Anne, cited in regard to 
Kenneth McKenzie, 2 n. 

McKenzie, Kenneth, 9, 105 n. 

McKenzie, Owen, 9, 55, 55 n., 58, 59, 60, 
64, 69, 70, 73, 78, 84, 142; quoted 
regarding Indian habits, 56-57 

McKinney, Hdward, 29, 29 n. 

Medicine Creek, 54, 54 n., 147 

Meldrum, Robert, 12, 12 n., 116, 116 n., 
134 

Milk River, 3, 13, 114, 114 n. 

Miller, Henry W., 29 n. 

Miller’s Hollow, see Kanesville. 

Missouri Republican, quoted regarding 
voyage of El Paso, 10-11, 12-13, 
13 n.; regarding Mary Blane, 15 
n.; regarding sinking of Rowena, 
16 n.; regarding St. Ange and her 


INDEX 


Missouri Republican—Continued 
voyage, 151-152; regarding ac- 
tivities of members of Union Fur 
Co., 147-150 

Missouri River, difficulty of navigation 
of, 16, 18, 20, 118, 121; change of 
course at junction with Kansas, 
20; rapicages of, 387; scenery 
along, 17, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 
94, 99, 104, 106, 107, 108, 112, 114, 
116-117, 119, 120 

Moreau, , 89, 89 n. 

Moreau River, see Sawareana River. 

Mormons, 8, 29, 29 n., 150 

Mosquito Creek, 28 

Mules, 40, 59, 60, 67 


Nerselle (voyageur), 15 n., 33, 35, 40, 
41, 44 


Nicollet, J. N., 120; cited regarding 

smoking hills, 104, 104 n. 
Niobara River, see L’Eau Qui Court. 
Nishnabotana River, 8, 25, 25 n. 
Nodaway River, 8, 24, 24 n. 


O’Loghland, 3) 

Oregon, John, 148, 149 

Owen, David Dale, 2, 144 

Owl River, see Sawarcana River. 
Oxbow lakes, 36, 36 n. 


Palliser, John, cited regarding Fort 
Pierre, 54 n.; regarding Owen 
McKenzie, 55 n.; regarding As- 
sineboines, 105 n. 

Parkville, 14, 121, 121 n. 

Peeled Hills, 92, 92 n. 

Betrinaethlonsy ls) de Meo 2 Me, 5) 45 OC 
63-64, 63 n., 103, 141-142, 143- 
144 

Phillips) J. S:, dn: 

Picotte, Honoré, 11, 12, 12 n., 13, 88, 
88 n., 89, 89 n., 91, 94, 96, 98, 108, 
104, 106 n., 109, 110, 118, 115, 117, 
118, 119, 182, 152; criticizes Tab- 
ular View of Sioux Nation, 90; 
quoted regarding Indian treat- 
ment of infirm, 101; regarding 
population changes among In- 
dians, 101-102 

Picotte, Joseph, 106, 106 n. 

Pinau’s (Pinon’s) Spring, 59, 59 n., 61 

Plums, recipe for drying, 83-84 

Point du Cou, see Council Bluffs. 

Point, Nicolas, quoted regarding Milk 
River, 114 n. 

Pomme blanche (prairie turnip), 114, 
114 n. 

Poplar River (Riviére aux Trembles, 
Quaking Ash Creek, Porcupine 
UVES ma neds. tells) me 

Porcupine River, see Poplar River. 

Porter, Thomas C., draws up list of 
plants collected by Culbertson, 
128, 124-127 


163 


Prairie dogs, 49, 59-60, 68, 70, 85-86 

Prairie fire, 41 

Primeau, Charles, 106 n. 

Princeton University (College of New 
Jersey), 2 

Princeton Theological Seminary, 2 

Prout, Hiram A., 5; quoted regarding 
fossils, 1 


Randell, , OO 

Red Water Creek, see Little Dry Creek. 

Riviére a Jacques (James, Yancton, or 
Dakota River), 43 n., 44, 44 me 
45, 46, 120 

Robidoux, Charles, 21 n. 

Robidoux, Joseph, 8, 21, 21 n., 22, 22 n. 

Roland, Toussaint, 148, 149 

Russell, James, 148, 149 


Sage Creek, 61, 61 n., 62, 65, 67, 1389, 140 
St. Charles, Mo., 8, 16, 16 n. 
St. Joseph, Mo., 8, 21, all Is PPATie, aPAL 
St. Louis Fur Co., see Union "Pur Co. 
Sarpy, Pierre (Peter) Abadie, 8, 11, 28, 
28 Oo 
Savannah, Mo., 23, 23 n. 
Sawarcana River (Moreau, Owl River), 
89, 89 n. 
Schlegel, , 4n., 36, 36 n., 40 
Sheepoi Creek, 57, 141 
Skunks, 121 
Smith, , 16 
Smithsonian Institution, 2, 4, 4 n.; 
makes appropriation for Culbert- 
son’s trip, 3; report on Culbert- 
son by Baird quoted, 3 
Soldier River, 30, 30 n. 
Squirrel, prairie, 49, 78 
Stage coach, 25-26 
Steamboats 
Assiniboine, 18, 109, 109 n. 
Et Paso, 3, 11, 11 n., 13, 14, 85, 86, 
86 n., 113 n., 114, 114 n., 121, 
151; account of voyage to 


Yellowstone, 10-11; cholera 
on, 13 n.; log quoted, 11, 12- 
18}, 183 s0b 


Fayaway, 16 n. 

Haydee, 147 

J. L. McLean, 150 

Lightfoot, 150 

Mary Blane, 3, 8, 15, 15 n., 150; 
life on board, 15-20. 

Minnesota, 18, 18 n. 

Robert Campbell, 90 n., 150, 152 

Rowena, wrecked, 16, 16 n. 

St. Ange, 13, 18, 18 n., 129, 120 n.; 
described, 151; chartered by 
Union Fur Co., 151-152 

Saluda, 150 

Saranak, 150 


Terhune, , 23 
Thompson, William, 82, 32 n. 


164 


Tilton, Col. 5 okay bry 

Trombley, , 148, 149 

Turtles, petrified, 63-64, 63 n., 66, 86, 
141 


Tutt, , 15, 16 
Two Thousand Mile Creek, see Little 
Dry Creek. 


Union Fur Co. (St. Louis Fur Co., Har- 
vey, Primeau and Co., Opposition 
Co.), 87, 87 n., 105 n., 106, 106 n. ; 
buffalo robes brought down the 
Missouri by, 91 n.; activities of 
members of in spring 1850, 147— 
150; St. Ange chartered by, 151- 
152 


Van Vliet, Capt. Stewart, 5, 5 n. 

Vasquez, E. Pike, 147 

Vermilion Post, 9, 14, 34 n., 36, 36 n.. 
37, 121 

Vermilion River, 40, 41, 42 n., 43 n. 

Vincent (voyageur), 15 n. © 


BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY 


[BuLu, 147] 


Voyageurs, hardiness of, 48; play games 
with Indians, 71. See also An- 
gelo, Antoine, Nerselle, Vincent. 


War Hagle, Chief (Yancton), 34 n. 

Warren, G. K., cited regarding route 
from Ft. Pierre to Sioux City, 
43 n.; regarding Bad River, 56 n. ; 
regarding Grindstone Creek, 58 
n.; regarding Chain of Rocks, 
54 n. 

Weston, Mo., 8, 20, 20 n. 

White Earth Fork of Vermilion, 42, 
42 n., 43 

White River, 55, 56 n., 59, 65 n., 86, 120, 
120 n., 148 

Willow Creek, 30, 30 n., 56, 56 n. 

Wolves, 148; white, 49; gray, 59 


Yancton River, see Riviére a Jacques. 

Yancton Trading House, 51, 51 n., 53 

Yellowstone River, source of, 75; junc- 
tion with Missouri, 106 

Yellow Wolf (Cheyenne), 133 


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