Yol, s he. 3

DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY
CORPS OF ENGINEERS

THE

BULLETIN

OF THE

BEACH EROSION BOARD

OFFICE, CHIEF OF ENGINEERS
WASHINGTON, D.C.

VOL. 8 JULY 1, 1954 NO, 3

ore
ee

bites

TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page No.

Shore Protection in Harrison County, Mississippieececccece 1

Comparison of Hindcast and Observed Waves Along
the Northern New Jersey Coast for the Storm
of November 6-7, MO De eratatatetateletsicisinietelaisioiaietelclslelslelaiciciersiors 13
Notice, Fifth Conference on Coastal Engineering .eccsoee 18
Progress Reports on Research Sponsored by the
Beach Erosion Bord latelelsteletelalelelalalelalelelelsleleleleteielelelelelelereialole 19
23

Beach Erosion SiLHCee Selelelcleleletelelololeielcleleleislelelelelelclololelelelelelelelele

IN

DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY
CORPS OF ENGINEERS

BEACH EROSION BOARD

0 03 iii I

UNION

VOL. 8 1 JULY 1954

NO. 3

N WASHINGTON : ° : | \SSS Se, hoy

Covington

| ST. TAMMAN

LOCATION, : wes (NG ULF INTRAQOASTAL WATERWAY

POF PROJECT

\

MEXICO

SCALE IN MILES
10 20

LOCALITY MAP

SHORE PROTECTION IN HARRISON COUNTY, MISSISSIPPI

Francis F. Escoffier and William L. Dolive
Mobile District, Corps of Engineers
Mobile, Alabama

Affording over 700 acres of recreational beach area, the recently
completed hydraulic fill protecting the sea wall and adjacent Federal
highway in Harrison County, MisSey is reported to be the longest mane
made beach in the worlde

The joint sea wall repair and beach restoration venture undertaken
by Harrison County with Federal aid covers about 25 miles of Mississippi
Sound shore line between Biloxi and Henderson Point, near Pass Christian,
Misse Mississippi Sound, extending east and west for about 75 miles
along the Mississippi and Alabama coasts, is separated from open water
of the Gulf of Mexico by a chain of barrier islands lying some 10 to 12
miles offshoree Depths in the sound are shallow, increasing progressive~
ly from the mainland to a maximom of 15 to 20 feet near the barrier islands.
The contour of 6=foot depth in places is as much as a mile offshore.

Much of the land bordering the coast is low, flat, and subject to
imindation by hurricane tidese

The Mississippi Gulf coast, long a favorite resort area for tourists
and vacationers from aJl parts of the country, has been developed to
the extent that practically the entire coastal strip in Harrison County
is urban in charactere The three principal coastal cities, Biloxi,
Gulfport, and Pass Christian, are linked by a multiemillion dollar
highway, part of transcontinental U. S. 90, consisting of a mlti~lane
divided roadway. The traffie load thereon varies from 18,000 vehicles
daily during the week to 22,000 daily on week endse The highway closely
borders Mississippi Sound and is protected by the sea wall throughout
most of its length in Harrison Countye

Hurricanes and beach erosion have always taken heavy tolls in
lives end property damage along the Mississippi coaste The formation
of exceptionally high storm tides in Mississippi Sound is facilitated
by the progressively diminishing depths of water encountered by the
wind-driven currents as they move onshore and further by the converging
shore lines of the mainland and the Mississippi River delta, which act
to confine and pile up the windedriven water. In 1915, a hurricane of
great magnitude destroyed over half the coastal highway between Biloxi
and Pass Christian and altogether caused about $13,000,000 in damages
to beach front property in Mississippi and Lovuisianae The enormous
damage resulting from this storm later prompted the State of Mississippi
to pass a law appointing an investigative commission and authorizing
the coastal commnities concerned to issue bonds to finance construction

of a sea wall. The bonds were to be retired with proceeds derived
from local and state gasoline taxes.

The 25=-mile—Long sea wall in Harrison County, and probably the
longest contimmous sea wall in the world of any one modern design,
was constructed during the period 1925-28 at a cost of $3,)00,000.
The design selected by engineers employed by the local government
consisted of a reinforced concrete stepped=-type slab supported at the
toe by a continuous concrete sheet pile curtain wall and at the rear
by square concrete bearing pilese The sheet=pile curtain wall is of
particular interest since much of the trouble experienced in maintain»
ing the Harrison County sea wall was apparently due to construction
difficulties with respect to that featuree The sheet piles are 37
inches wide, 7 inches thick, and 10 feet long, and extend 8 feet below
mean sea levele The bottom third of eacn pilets length was of tongue=
and=groove design to facilitate guiding during the jetting operatione
The top two-thirds of each pilets section was designed in such a manner
that grooves in adjacent piles would abut each othere These grooves
were later filled with grout to make a solid impervious core and seal
the joint. Although theoretically suitable for the purpose, the
workmen were unable to drive and grout the piling in such a manner as
to obtain a sand=tight curtain walle As a result, much sand backfill
leaked through the curtain walle Tread elevation of the bottom step
is 3 feet above mean sea level and the top elevation of the sea wall
is either 8 or 11 feet above mean sea level, the height being governed
by the elevation of the backshore areae A concrete sidewalk 5 feet
wide originally adjoined the top of the wall throughout its length.
Storm drains led from catch basins under the side walk and discharged
at the seaward face of the walle :

The bottom step was built at about the original ground level and
a low, narrow beach existed in front of the wall at the time of its
original construction. The beach material soon eroded, exposing the
curtain wall to direct wave action at normal stages of the tide.
The loss of sand backfill through openings in the curtain wall, and
also through defective joints in the storm sewers, permitted the ade»
joining sidewalk to settle and disintegrate, and endangered the foun~
dation of the parallel Federal highway. However, the unsightly con~
dition of the sidewalk and lack of backfill which exposed the undere
side of the sea wall, and other minor defects, gave observers the
impression that the wall was in much worse condition structurally than
was actually the case. Other than cracks and crevices, spalling of
concrete, stripping of the transverse rib at a number of the expansion
joints, and exposure of reinforcing bars to the corrosive action of
sea water, the wall was in relatively good condition, considering its
age and lack of maintenancee The exceptionally destructive tropical

FIGURE |. TYPICAL CONDITION OF SEAWALL PRIOR TO REPAIRS

(Fissure along back of bottom step extended throughout practically the entire length of the seawall.—Note A).

FIGURE 2. TYPICAL FILLING OPERATION

hurricane which passed over the Mississippi coast in September 197
inflicted remarkably little damage on the sea wall considering the
height of the wind tide and the severity of wave actione The wind
tide reached a height of about 1 feet during this hurricane.

(See Bulletin of the Beach Erosion Board, Vole 2-Noe 1, Jan. 198).

Beach erosion control studies by the Corps of Engineers were
undertaken in 194) and again in 1947 in cooperation with the Harrison
County Board of Supervisors. These studies indicated that, after
all factors were taken into consideration, a hydraulic fill placed
adjacent to the sea wall, if properly maintained, would be the most
suitable means of stopping leakage of sand through the curtain wall
and prolonging the life of the concrete stepped=slab, and would in
addition provide a recreational facility for the general public.

The plan of improvement and protection formulated by these studies
was adopted as a Federal project in the 198 River and Harbor Act.
Elements of improvement and protection incorporated in this project
included structural repair of the stepped concrete slab by the
pressure concrete or "gunite" method, replacing backfill, construct=
ing a sand beach about 2) miles long, 300 feet wide with a berm width
of 50 feet at top elevation of 5 feet above mean sea level adjacent
to the sea wall, and reconstructing the drainage system. Design
slope from the edge of the berm of the proposed fill outward to the
natural bottom of the sound was 1 on 50. The total estimated volume
of sand required for the beach was 5,700,000 cubic yardse The drain-
age plan included a collecting sewer back of the sea wall, discharging
at intervals through relatively few laterals across the beach. AI1L
drainage lines were designed to minimize differential settlement and
to assure tight joints in the interest of preventing infiltration of
sand. Sewer pipes laid across the beach were anchored at their seae=
ward ends by means of creosoted timber piling structures. At the
larger outfalls, the plans specified that drainage be carried across
the beach between two parallel rows of interlocking concrete sheet
piles. The original (1947) estimate for the project, exclusive of

the cost of "gunite" and other wall repairs, was $2,038,000. Dredging
unit cost was estimated at that time at 15 cents per cubic yard,
including items for engineering and contingencies. The Beach Erosion
Board recommended the maximum Federal participation in the cost of

the project under the policy stated in the so-called "sea-wall proviso"
of Public Law 727, 79th Congress, amounting to onesthird of the
original cost of the walle The recommended Federal share was theree
fore one-third of $3,),00,000, or $1,133,000.

Assurances that all conditions of local cooperation imposed by
the project would be met were approved by the Chief of Engineers on 10

FIGURE 4. DRAIN OUTFALL THROUGH SEAWALL
(Old outfall at left.)

5.

January 1951 and a contract between the Corps of Engineers and Harrison
County was drawn and executed on 23 January 1951. Policy of the Corps
of Engineers! District Office at Mobile with respect to prosecution of
the work was declared to be as follows:

ae That all plans and specifications for the work would be
reviewed and approved in their engineering and construction aspects as
required by the Act of Congress authorizing the project.

be That all bids received by the county would be examined
by the District Office and, if such bids appeared excessive, this fact
would be discussed with the sponsoring agency, with appropriate sug#
gestions and recommendations. If the county deemed it inadvisable to
follow such suggestions or recommendations, the Mobile District would
not require the rejection of any bid or the readvertisement of any work
provided the low bidder was qualified and all engineering and construction
requirements were satisfactorye

ce That since the Mobile District would be held accountable
for any progress payments made, such payments would be conditional on
the assurance in the form of a guarantee from the county that the entire
project would be completede

Structural repairs to the concrete stepped=slab were commenced on
16 Jamary 1950 and completed by the end of the year. The work consisted
of chipping out cracks to provide space for a minimum of 6 inches of
gunite grout, cleaning, sandblasting, and pressure groutinge A membrane
curing compound was applied over the finished groute All old reinforcing
bars were cleaned of rust by sandblasting and mesh reinforcing, properly
spliced and tied, was placed where needed before commencement of grouting.
The sidewalk was removed and the broken concrete used in the construction
of groins at Henderson Point and at several other localities along the
shoree

Placing of the beach fill was commenced on 3 Jamuary 1951 and
completed during November of the same year, a total construction period
of about 11 monthse Creation of the beach was accomplished by the direct
placement methode Two dredges were employed, one with 20-inch discharge
beginning at Henderson Point and working eastward and the other with
16-inch discharge commencing at Biloxi Lighthouse and working westward.
Material was obtained from a parallel borrow channel, dredged to a
depth of 1) feet, about 1,500 feet offshoree Specifications for the
project called for beach material to be composed of sand having 20 percent
or less of foreign matter. In order to determine the composition of

source material in the borrow area, exploratory borings were taken to
a depth of about 20 feet below mean sea level at intervals of 1,000
feete Except for occasional isolated lenses of clay, all material in
the borrow area west of Beauvoir, about midway between Gulfport and
Biloxi, was determined by sampling to be practically pure sande
Opposite Beauvoir, clay was found at a depth of 18 feet and from there
eastward there was a continued gradual rise of the clay strata, which
reached the surface opposite Biloxie Although the dredges avoided
clay areas as much as possible, its predominance opposite Biloxi is
manifested in the appearance of the finished beach in that area.
Median diameter of sand in the foreshore slope of the finished beach
was about 0.27 millimeter. Gradation of representative samples of
material in place is indicated in the following tabulatione Sample
Noe 1 was taken when material was first pumped on the beach and Sample
Noe 2 was taken from the foreshore slope about two months later.

2 Size : Sample No. 1 : Sample No. 2
: Opening : Percent : Percent
Sieve Noe 3 (mm) : Retained : Retained
3 : :
: : :
10 3 2200 : 0.0 a 0.0
} 3 3
20 : O.8h0 3: 0.6 : Ob
3 z 3
Lo : Oeh20 83 99 3 6.3
3 : 3
60 : 0.250 3: 51.0 : 56
3 3 3
100 3 OlLh9 H 89.5 H 956
3 3 3
200 Se OeOflm ns 98.0 : 100.0
: 3 3

In placing the material, an outer retaining dike with its crest
at an elevation of about 2 feet above mean sea level was first deposit
ed for a distance of about 1,000 feet parallel to and slightly less
than 300 feet from the sea wall. The intervening space between the
retaining dike and the wall was then filled with sufficient material
to bring the beach to design grade and cross section, plus an excess to
be used to fill slack areas and to supply backfill for the rear of the
sea wall. This process was then repeated for the next 1,000 feet and
s0 on throughout the job. It was subsequently found, however, that use
of the retaining dike in beach construction was unmnecessarye Actually,
the dike had prevented the run-off of undesirable fine materiale
Restoration of the beach along the Biloxi waterfront, recently completed,

7.

was successfully and efficiently accomplished without the use of a
retaining dike, and the use of such dikes in future construction
of artificial beaches is considered inadvisable.

In order to provide contimuous drainage for surface run-off,
depressions were left across the beach at the locations of outfalls and
a stockpile of material left adjacent thereto for backfill. The placing
and backfilling of the drainage outfall pipe followed the hydraulic
fill as closely as practicable. Draglines were employed to transfer
the surplus material from the stockpile, across the sea wall, for
backfill purposes and after all other work was finished the surface of
the beach was dressed to design cross section by bulldozer.

Volume of sand required for the hydraulic beach fill was slightly
less than 6,000,000 cubic yardse Contract unit prices for dredging
were 22e3¢ for the section west of Gulfport and 2).98¢ between Gulf=
port and Biloxi. About 170,000 cubic yards were required to replace
backfill which had seeped from the rear of the sea wall. Recon-
struction of the drainage system involved laying of 10,370 linear
feet of concrete sewer pipe of diameters from 8 to 2 inches, con=
struction of 06 junction boxes and manholes, driving 29,600 linear
feet of concrete sheet piling for the larger outfalls, and miscellaneous
appurtenant workse The final costs of the various features of the
project are summarized as follows:

Structural repairs by gunite process <- - =- - - - = 4 201,06
Hydraulic fill (5,985,000 cue ydse) - - ----- = 1,121,671
Reconstruction of drainage system - - - - = = = - - 1,109,909
Backfill (169,000 cue yds») - ----------- 12,007

Subtotal, construction ----------- 2,86) 633
Preparation of Plans and Specifications - - = - = - 83,147

Engineering and Inspection on Construction = - = = hh ,630
Government costs:

Supervision and inspection --------=- = 65545
General overhead -=<-< 2 =e --<-©---=- - 2,825

Subtotal = Engineering, supervision, overhead, etc 137,17

GRAND TOTAL COST OF PROJECT ------=-+-+--+-=--- $3,001, 780

Detail plans and specifications for the project were drawn up by
the Harrison County Engineering Department and submitted to the Corps
of Engineers for review and approval prior to initiation of the work,
in accordance with the terms of the Federal River & Harbor Act

authorizing the projects Construction was carried out under the
supervision of the County with frequent inspection by an engineer of
the Mobile District office to see that the work was being prosecuted
according to the performance schedule and in compliance with the
approved plans and specificationse Monthly payments were made to the
county commensurate with the physical stage of completion of the work.
The Government's proerata share of the cost of work actually in place
was computed at 37.7 percent, equivalent to the ratio of the fixed
Federal participation to the total estimated cost for the jobe

Shortly after completion of the hydraulic fill, natural adjustments
began to take place in the beach slopese Wave and tidal action formed
a ridge of sand, with a foreshore slope of about 1 on 10, parallel to
and a short distance landward of the shore linee Elevation of this
ridge, or berm crest, is at about 3.2 feet above mean sea level, which
is about the maximum elevation normally reached by the uprushing waves
at high tide in Mississippi Sounde The formation of the sand ridge
created several undesirable conditions to the beach. Water, which
collected in the impounding area landward thereof in some localities,
at times became stagnant and collection of fine silt in the wet areas
resulted in intermittent growth of marsh grasse These conditions marred
the appearance of the beach and detracted from recreational usefulness;
however, remedial measures were promptly undertaken by the local
governmente The beach is now being filled and regraded with excess
material to a slope of 1 on 100 outward to the berm crest, and allowed
to assume its natural slope, about 1 on 10, thence to the water's edge.
The sand ridge also seals up the outer ends of the drainage pipes, but
during a heavy rainfall a head of water usually develops sufficient to
clean them out; otherwise they are opened by maintenance crews when
necessarye In general, the drainage system is functioning efficiently.
Loose sand transported from the beach by southerly winds during dry
periods banks up against the eleven-foot wall and is blown over the
eight-foot wall and across the adjacent roadway. Although such loss
of beach sand is relatively insignificant, additional expense is
nevertheless incurred in removing it from the roadway and parkwayse

Cross sections were taken shortly after completion of the hydraulic
fill in 1951 and again in June 1953. The sections were located to
represent beach areas not under the direct influence of the groin
effect of the various outfall pipes or other projections extending into
the sound. Subsequent to the 1951 survey, about 170,000 cubic yards
of material were removed from the beach for backfilling the sea walle
A comparison of the 1951 and 1953 cross sections, and allowing for the
quantity of material removed for backfill, indicates that the loss of
sand by erosion amounted roughly to 65,000 cubie yards for the two~
year period, or an average of 32,500 cubic yards annually.

FIGURE 6. FINISHED BEACH EAST OF HENDERSON POINT - FEB. 1952.

10

The protection afforded by the offshore barrier islands renders
Mississippi Sound a relatively quiet body of water except during storms
or tropical hurricanese The greatest fetch over which the wind blows
lies to the southeast and the predominant onshore winds are from that
sectore The natural forces therefore are such as to produce a
westerly littoral drift along the Harrison County shore, but the
quantity of material transported, insofar as can be determined by
visual inspection, is relatively low. Pipe outfalls extending across
the beach, usually for distances of about 260 feet from the sea wall,
and other projections having similar groin effects, have accumulated
small quantities of material on their eastern sides, accompanied by
loss of some material and recession of the shore line on the opposite
sides. At Henderson Point, sand is escaping past the end of the
broken=concrete groin and is being deposited in the form of an under-
water bar trailing off to the southwest. There is also evidence of
seasonal reversals in direction of littoral drift, as illustrated by
the accompanying aerial photograph of the finished beach (Fig.6.).

At the outer end of a number of outfalls, maintenance forces have
recently placed short rock groins at an angle bearing to the southwest
in an attempt to arrest the erosion on the downdrift side of the drain~
age outlet pipese Their effectiveness for this purpose so far has not
been establishede

The beach maintenance program is carried out by a crew of about
50 mene The work includes reshaping the beach, filling low areas,
removing wind=blown sand from the adjacent roadway, cleaning the oute
fall pipes and building the rock groins at their seaward ends, and
sifting debris from the beach area by employing a beach "sanitizer".
The latter is a tractor~drawn machine which picks up sand to depths
of 6 inches or less and removds debris from it by means of a series
of mechanically agitated wire=-mesh sieves. The sanitizer is
effective only during dry periods when moisture content of the sand
is low. The beach maintenance and upkeep costs so far average about
$10,000 per month, according to engineers employed by the countye
No beach replenishment by dredging has been necessary since completion
of the fill and no major repairs to the drainage system or sea wall
structure have been requirede It may thus be noted that a considerable
part of the maintenance cost so far applies to maintenance as a
recreational project rather than as a protective measures

The observed slope adjustments, the effect of the sand ridge on
the outfall drains and other experiences with the finished beach in
Harrison County were used as a guide in planning an extension to the
project along the waterfront in the City of Biloxi. The artificial
beach in Biloxi, completed in March 195), was designed with a top

elevation of 5 feet above mean sea level adjacent to the sea wall and

a slope of 1 on 100 outward 220 feet to a berm crest at elevation 2.8
feet, thence 1 on 10 to the natural floor of the sound. Drainage oute
falls extend 2:8 feet from the seawall, discharging approximately on
the foreshore slope. Apparently little, if any, beach material has
been lost by erosion and no appreciable slope adjustments have occurred.
The advantage of the steeper foreshore slope (1 on 10 as compared to

1 on 50 in the original project) is evident..

The hydraulic fill along the Harrison County sea wall has proven
effective as a means of sealing tne curtain wall against escape of
sand backfill. Insufficient time has elapsed since its completion,
however, to determine its resistance to erosion, particularly during
hurricanes or severe tropical disturbances. Cross sections should
be taken periodically, at least once a year and after all severe
storms, to determine the rate of erosion during all weather conditions.
Steps should be taken to replenish eroded areas as soon as they appear
in order that the beach may contime to function as a protective
measure for the sea walle Planting of a suitable species of beach
shrub might be desirable to reduce loss of sand by wind action.

The protective beach was justified on the basis of its value as
a large-scale recreational facility for general public use as well as
a means of prolonging the effective useful life of the sea wall and
adjacent transcontinental highway. Although no actual count has been
taken of the number of daily visitors to the beach, its extensive use
has been noted by county officials and representatives of the Corps
of Engineerse The area is densely populated and is only a relatively
short distance from large urban centers such as New Orleans, Mobile,
and inland cities which have long been in need of the advantages
afforded by the new facility. The Mississippi coast has been an oute
standing seashore resort for many years and the creation of the
artificial beach has attracted many new visitors and encouraged sub»
stantial additional investments in hotels, tourist cottages, and other
recreational propertye

Acknowledgments

The writers desire to express appreciation to Mr. Arthur MacArthur,
County Engineer, and Mr. J. K. Muether, Assistant County Engineer,
Harrison County, for furnishing much of the data analysed in this
papere

COMPARISON OF HINDCAST AND OBSERVED WAVES ALONG THE
NORTHERN NEW JERSEY COAST FOR THE STORM OF NOVEMBER 6-7, 1953

by

Kenneth Kaplan and Thorndike Saville, Jr.
Research Division, Beach Erosion Board

On November 6 and 7, 1953 a severe Atlantic Coast storm caused
extensive damage to beaches and structures in the Long Island~Northern
New Jersey coastal area. The most intense part of the storm (Figure 1)
coincided with the occurrence of high tides and produced record or
near record high water marks in the area. In wind intensity the storm
compared with many of the most violent that preceded its; the wind
waves accompanying it were, therefore, among the highest observed
along this coastal segment.

During the period March 22 through April 9, 1954, the Beach Erosion
Board conducted the third in a series of classes dealing with wave,
beach erosion, and shore protection phenomena. One topic to which
almost a week of class instruction and practice time was devoted was
wind wave forecasting and hindcasting. After instruction in and
demonstration of forecasting methods, the class, divided into several
teams, performed a supervised series of wave hindcasts climaxing in a
hindcast for the Northern New Jersey shore of waves from the storm of
November 1953. As a control the class instructors {the authors) also
performed a wave hindcast for this storm. All forecasting teams
operated independently using the Sverdrup-—Munk methods of forecasting
and decay analysis as revised by Bretschneider (1,2)*, As a further
item of interest, the authors performed an additional hindcast analysis
of the storm eee the method recently devised by W. J. Pierson and
G. Neumann of New York University (3,4), A comparison has also been
made with reported visual observations.

Hindcast summaries of wave data by three class teams and the
instructors, all derived by the Sverdrup—Munk-Bretschneider approach
and by the authors using the Pierson-Neumann method are show graph-
ically on Figure 2.

Table 1 includes summaries of both the forecasting parameters
derived by the instructors from the six—hourly U. S. Weather Bureau
North American Surface charts, and the hindcast wave parameters,
obtained first by use of the Bretschneider forecasting and decay
curves, then by the Pierson—Neumann technique. The forecasting
parameters (i.e. wind velocity, fetch, and initial duration) utilized
are the same for both methodse

¥ Numbers in parentheses refer to the Bibliography at the end of
the report.

7:30 PM

100
NAUTICAL MILES AT VARIOUS LATITUDES

90° 85°

FIGURE |I-SYNOPTIC SITUATION, 1930 EST NOVEMBER 6, I953

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Table 1

PARAMETERS FOR HINDCASTS

Date 6 Nov 7 Nov
Time (EST) 0130 0730 1330 1930 0130
Velocity (kn) 26 39 45 55 42
Fetch (nemie) not lim. 200 180 120 120
Duration (hr.) 3

By Sverdrup - Munk = Bretschneider Methods

fin. Dure Ghre)) 3 507 Deh 9 10.1
Min. Fetch (n.mi.) 18 55 110 120 120
Sig. Period (se¢e) 503 Bed aal 0) WD", 10.8

By Pierson-Neumann Methed

Mine Dur. (hr) 3 5 9 sl ae
Min. Fetch (n.mi.) od — — 120 120
E 0.9 12 45 80 40
Sige Hte C£ts) 2.7 98 19 3 2504 17 9
Maxe Period (sec.) Lie? 6.3 925 Oae 9.3

It is of interest to note that two of the class teams hindcast
a wave maximum of 36 feet while the third hindcast a maximum of 27
feet. The authors! maximm using the Bretschneider curves was 32
feet; using the Pierson—Neumann technique (with the same forecasting
parameters) it was 25 feet. That class team reporting the 27-foot
wave height maximum, in analyzing the weather charts determined a
maximum wind velocity significantly lower than that determined by
the other class groups. This is not unexpected, interpretation of
weather charts being still often a subjective matter.

Hindcast wave periods also differ. The three class teams reported
periods for the maximm portion of the storm of between 13.0 and 13.5
secondse The authors! hindcast periods were 12.4 seconds for the
Significant period by the Bretschneider technique and 10.2 seconds
as the maximim period by the Pierson—Neumann technique; this value
corresponds to an average period of about 8 seconds.

Visual wave observations although not considered entirely accurate,
do give a fairly good measure of wave conditions off the coast. ee
observed wave heights reported in the Norther New Jersey area are
as follows:

Location Observed Wave Height (feet)
Manasquan Inlet, Coast Guard Station 40
Shark River Coast Guard Station 40
Monmouth Beach Coast Guard Station 35
Sandy Hook Coast Guard Station 30

The comparison of these observations with the hindcast heights of 25
to 36 feet appears to be quite reasonable, particularly when it is
realized that visual observations of high waves are often on the high
side. It should be noted that the hindcast values of wave height are
so-called significant heights. There was no way of ascertaining
whether the observed heights were also significant heights, or some
other value, the mean or maximm, for example.

The class members whose hindcasts are discussed herein are;
Mr. Bert W. Allen of the London, Ontario, district office, Mr.
Manuel A. Fine of the Toronto, Ontario district office, Mr. Malconb
W. Paul of the Saint John, New Brunswick district office, all of
the Department of Public Works of Canada; Mr. Harry S. Perdikis
of the New England Division, Corps of Engineers; and Messrs. Robert
A. Jachowski and George W. Simmons of the Beach Erosion Board staff.
Their permission to use the results of their hindcasts in this report
is gratefully acknowledged.

Bibliography

(1) Sverdrup, He Ue, and We He Munk = Wind, Sea, and Swell: Theory
of Relations for Forecasting, U. S. Hydrographic Office
Publication No. 601, 1947.

(2) Bretschneider, C. Le = "Revised Wave Forecasting Relationships",

Proceedings, Second Conference on Coastal Engineering, Engineer=
ing Foundation, 1952.

(3) Pierson, W. Je, Jre, Gerhard Neumann, and R. W. James —- Practical
Methods for Observing and Forecasting Ocean Waves by Means of
Wave Spectra and Statistics, Bureau of Aeronautics, Project
AROWA Technical Report No. 1, New York University, 1953.

(4) Neumann, Gerhard - On Ocean Wave Spectra and a New Method of
Forecasting Wind Generated Sea, Beach Erosion Board Technical
Memorandum No. 43, December 1953.

(5) U. S. Corps of Engineers, * Report on Storm of 6-7 November 1953,
in two volumes, New York District, February 195Z.

V7.

NOTICE
FIFTH CONFERENCE ON COASTAL ENGINEERING
on 8-11 September 195)

Sponsored by the University of Grenoble
at
Ecole National D'Electrotechnique Et D'Hydraulique
h6 Avenue Felix - Viallet
Grenoble, France

This series of conferences is one of the activities of the Council
on Wave Research of the Engineering Foundation. Four conferences have
been held to date - the first at Long Beach, Califomia, in 1950, the
second at Houston, Texas, in 1951, the third in Cambridge, Massachusetts,
in 1952, and the fourth in Chicago, Illinois in 1953. The proceedings
of these conferences have been published. The primary purpose of these
conferences has been to aid the engineer by summarizing the present
state of the art and science related to the design and planning of coastal
works. Although much remains to be done in the way of developing
reliable design methods, the series of papers presented at the con-
ferences represent a thorough’summary of coastal engineering as now
practiced. Although many papers to be given at the fifth conference
will pertain to the European Coast it is the aim and purpose to present
papers that present basic information for general application, In-
quiriesregarding this conference, and requests for application forms,
should be directed to the above address or to the following:

Monsieur René Frappat - Secrétaire Général
Association Amis de L'Universite de Grenoble
Cinquieme Congres de Coastal Engineering
Palais de L'Universite

Grenoble , France

COUNCIL ON WAVE RESEARCH - THE ENGINEERING FOUNDATION
245 Hesse Hall, University of California
Berkeley, California

PROGRESS REPORTS ON RESEARCH SPONSORED BY
THE BEACH EROSION BOARD

Abstracts from progress reports on several research contracts in
force between universities or other institutions and the Beach Erosion
Board, together with brief statements as to the status of research
projects being prosecuted in the laboratory of the Beach Erosion Board
are presented as follows:

I. University of California, Contract No. DA-l9-055-eng-8, Status
Report No. ih, 1 March 1954 through 1 May 195q

Mechanical analysis of the sand samples collected during the
survey of the movement of sand around the rocky promontories of Point
Arguello, Point Conception and Point Dune in Southern California is
now completed. The results are being compiled on charts to aid in
interpretation of the mechanics of sand movement around these points.

The series of sand samples collected during February on Point
Reyes Beach to determine the variability of individual samples taken
on a beach, irregular in composition and exposed to storm action, are
in the process of mechanical analysis.

In the latter part of April a series of sand samples were collected
in Santa Barbara harbor and along the adjacent beach to the east to
supplement previous studies of sand movement in these areas. Special
emphasis was given to depths shallower than 20 feet.

II. University of California, Contract No. DA-),9-055-eng-31, Status
Report Noe 3 = 1 February to 30 April 195]

The runs with a smooth bed in the channel were completed. The
measurements included the set-up at 5 locations and wave conditions
at ) locations along the channel for five different wind velocities
with seven different still-water depths. An interim report is being
prepared for the smooth bottom conditions.

Runs on set-up have been made with a bed roughened by means of
expanded metal lath. Preliminary analysis indicates that this degree
of roughness gives a set-up about 10 percent greater than with the
smooth bottom. Exploratory experiments were made with strips of
cheese cloth in the channel to simlate the roughness effects of
vegetation in nature.

TII. Scripps Institution of Oceanograp Contract No. DA-l\9-055-eng=3
Quarterly Progress Report No. 19, January to March 195)
Analysis of orbital velocity associated with wave motion in
shallow water is nearing completion. Agreement with solitary wave
theory is best near the breaker zone; the field velocity tends to be

greater than theoretical velocity for long-period waves and less
for short-period waves.

Continued measurements of sand-level changes show greatest
changes are taking place in shallow water; at the deepest station
(70 feet) there have been no changes exceeding 0.05 feet.

‘ A single device for accurately measuring the profile of large
ripples has been perfected. It consists of a series of parallel brass
prongs welded at right angles to a metal bar. The prongs are coated
with grease, When the device is forced into the sand bottom, the
imprint of the ripple profile is clearly marked. A spirit level is
attached.

The valley heads leading into Scripps Submarine Canyon have shown
a shoaling that amounts to as much as )} feet in portions where the
slide took place during the previous quarter.

IV. The Agricultural and Mechanical College of Texas, Contract No.
DA-.9-055=eng-15, Final Report

This contract has now been completed except for the submission
of a report "Change in Wave Height Due to Bottom Friction, Percolation,
and Refraction" which is presently in preparation and essentially
completed. This project has studied the effect of shallow water
bottom conditions on the generation and propagation of waves in the
shallow water of the Gulf coast both theoretically and by field
studies. The results are largely contained in a series of three reports.
The first is that mentioned above, which makes use of the dissipation
functions presented by Putnam, and Putnam and Johnson, to obtain a
direct general solution of wave height transformation incorporating
the effect of refraction as well as friction and percolation; the
second, entitled "Generation of Wind Waves Over a Shallow Bottom" pre-
sents a numerical method for determining shallow water wave generation
by successive approximations wherein wave energy is added due to wind
stress (as determined from the revised Sverdrup=Munk relations for deep
water generation) and subtracted due to bottom friction and percolation;
the third, "Field Investigation of Wave Energy Loss of Shallow Water
Ocean Waves", summarizes the field data gathered in the two years of the
contract and presents a tentative analysis of the effect of a non-rigid

20.

bottom. It is presently planned that the major portions of these
reports wili be reproduced as Technical Memorandums of the Board.

V. New York University, Contract No. DA-)9=-055-eng-32, Quarterl
Progress Report Dated 2 April 195h
The spectrum analyser for wave records has been completed and
shipped to the Board where it will be set up for use. A draft of the

paper on the statistical analysis of hindcast data on the North
Atlantic coast is being prepared.

VI.e Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Contract No. DA-=l9-055-eng-16
6th Progress Report dated 15 June 95h

Additional data was gathered on the mean (sand) particle velocity
along the beach and its relation to the wave and depth characteristics;
and on the location of the null point (point separating the areas of
onshore and offshore movement) and its relation to wave characteristics.

VII. Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, Mississippi -

Wave Run-up Study: Overtopping tests on the Lake Okeechobee levee
section (1 on 3 smooth slope) with an expanded series of wave conditions
were completed for crown elevations through 12 feet and a water depth of
29.5 feet.

Effect of Inlets on Adjacent Beaches: An additional test series
has been initiated, everything being the same as for the previous test
except that the lagoon depth in back of the inlet is relatively shallow
(about the same as the inlet depth) instead of being very deep.

VIII. Beach Erosion Board, Research Division, Project Status Report for
Quarter ending 18 June 195k

In addition to the research projects under contract to various
institutions which are reported on above, the Research Division of the
Beach Erosion Board is carrying out certain projects with its own
facilities, The main unclassified projects have been described in
previous numbers of the Bulletin, and a short description of some of
the work accomplished through the last quarter is given below.

Study of Effect of Tsunamis: Additional tests have been performed

to relate the wave height at the shoreline to the deep water height and
to the run-up. Run=-up on these idealized shore structures has also
been measured and related to the deeper water wave characteristics.

2

Study of Reforming of Waves After Breaking: Tests of reforming
waves, and the relation between the energy of the reformed wave and
the initial unbroken wave have been made for a smooth slope, and for
two bar shapes (for numerous depths and wave conditions) and the data
is now being analysed. Preliminary analysis indicates that the
increase in water level at the shore due to mass transport has an
important effect.

Groin Study: A new project is being initiated to study the effect
of groins on beaches, and the rate of littoral drift passing a groin
field, The test is presently being set up in the Coast Model Test
Basin where waves will be generated at a 30-degree angle to a sand
beach containing a groin field; material will be fed into the littoral
regime at the upbeach end (at varying ratios of the equilibrium rate)
and measurements of the material passing the field will be made at the
downbeach end.

Routine progress, testing and analysis has been made on the other
projects being carried out by the Research Division. Im addition, a
three-week class on water wave phenomena and design was held for
representatives of some of the coastal Districts, Division, and other
offices of the Corps of Engineers; several representatives of the
Department of Public Works of Canada also attended. A report on
"Coast Erosion and the Development of Beach Profiles" by the Danish
engineer Per Bruun discussing methods of analysis of shore problems
used abroad, and the application of some of these to profiles in the
Mission Bay, California area, was completed and is being published as
Technical Memorandum ));.

22.

BEACH EROSION STUDIES

Beach erosion control studies of specific localities are usually made
by the Corps of Engineers in cooperation with appropriate agencies of
the various States by authority of Section 2 of the River and Harbor Act
approved 3 July 1930. By executive ruling the costs of these studies are
divided equally between the United States and the cooperating agencies.
Information concerning the initiation of a cooperative study may be ob-
tained from any District or Division Engineer of the Corps of Engineers,
After a report on a cooperative study has been transmitted to Congress,
a summary thereof is included in the next issue of this Bulletin.
Summaries of reports transmitted to Congress since the last issue of the
Bulletin and lists of completed and authorized cooperative studies follow.

SUMMARIES OF REPORTS TRANSMITTED TO CONGRESS
PINELLAS COUNTY, FLORIDA

Pinellas County is located on the Gulf Coast of Florida, about
midway of the peninsula. Its shore line consists of numerous keys or
barrier islands, separated from the mainland by generally shallow tidal
lagoons, and from each other by shallow natural passes. The study area,
about 25 miles of shore line, comprises the four most developed of these
keys, namely Clearwater Beach Island, Sand Key, Treasure Island, and
Long Key. These four islands contain 13 separate incorporated communities.
Six causeways and bridges connect these islands with the mainland. The
principal activities in this area are tourish accommodation, citrus fruit
growing and commercial fishing.

The four islands have a permanent population of about 11,000, but
the summer and winter tourist trade increases the population to more than
26,000 the year round. The permanent population of the general tributary
area, comprising Pinellas and Hillsborough Counties which include the
cities of Clearwater, St. Petersburg and Tampa, is in excess of ],00,000.
During the winter season this figure is about doubled by the influx of
winter residents and tourists. Of the Gulf frontage for which protection
is required, about one-eighth is publicly owned, including one Federally
owned parcel 500 feet long.

Geologically, the shore line under study is one of emergence, with
the numerous barrier islands and beaches having been formed in geologically
recent times by the action of waves and currents. The low narrow keys are
composed of recent marine deposits consisting of quartz, sand and shell in
varying mixtures. Beach samples taken at about mean tide level had median
diameters of from 0.2 to 0.3 millimeter after removal of shell, and a
variable shell content ranging up to about 30 percent.

Tides in the vicinity of the study area are the mixed type, with
mean and spring ranges averaging about 1.5 feet and 2.0 feet respectively.
The maximum storm tide stage may have reached about 13 feet above mean low
water, but storm tide stages exceeding 5 feet above mean low water are rare.

23

Available wind and wave data are insufficient to define accurately the
characteristics of littoral drift within the study area. Past behavior
of the passes between the islands indicates a dominance of southward
littoral drift with the net rate of drift being relatively small, par-
ticularly in the northern reaches of the study area. Sources of drift
material are apparently eroding areas along the Gulf shore and adjacent
offshore bottom.

The major beach changes appear to result from severe storms which
occasionally sweep across the Gulf and cause pronounced erosion of the
beaches in the study area, the beaches being only partially restored by
normal wave action during the periods between storms. Survey information
before and after the 1950 hurricane indicated an average recession result-
ing from the storm of about 25 feet, about 10 feet of which was restored
by normal wave action during the next 1 1/2 years. During the 1950 storm
the tide reached a level of 5 feet above mean low water. The data indicate
that a beach having a 60-foot width above mean high water and maximum ele=
vation of 6 feet above mean low water should adequately protect developed
property from severe storm damage. The usefulness of groins in the area
is probably limited to holding the south end of a fill area near a pass
between islands or to preventing erosion of the south end of an island
by tidal currents.

The Division and District Engineer and the Beach Erosion Board con-
cluded that the most suitable protective plan consists of providing or
restoring, by artificial placement of sand, protective beaches generally
60 feet in width above mean high water along portions of the frontage of
each of the four islands in the study area, with groins at the southerly
ends of the islands. They found that the benefits from prevention of
damages, increased value of property, and recreational benefits resulting
from the proposed work warrant the adoption of a project for protection
and improvement. They recommended that the United States participate in
the initial cost of the project to the extent of one-third of the initial
cost of protecting the publicly owned portions of the shores of the islands
within the limits of the project area, plus the entire cost of protecting
the Federally owned frontage on Sand Key.

The Chief of Engineers concurred generally in the views and recom-
mendations of the Beach Erosion Board.

24.

COMPLETED COOPERATIVE BEACH EROSION STUDIES

LOCATION
MAINE

Old Orchard Beach

NEW HAMPSHIRE

Hampton Beach
" "

MASSACHUSETTS

South Shore of Cape Cod (Pt. Gammon to Chatham)

Salisbury Beach
Winthrop Beach
Lynn-Nahant Beach
Revere Beach
Nantasket Beach
Quincy Shore

Plum Island

RHODE ISLAND

South Shore
(Towns of Narragansett, South Kingstown,
Charlestown & Westerly)

CONNECTICUT

Compo Beach, Westport

Hawk's Nest Beach, Old Lyme

Ash Creek to Saugatuck River
Hammonasset River to East River
New Haven Hbr. to Housatonic Re
Cgnn. River to Hammonasset Re
Pawcatuck River to Thames River
Niantic Bay to Conn. River
Housatonic R. to Ash Creek

NEW YORK

Jacob Riis Park, Long Island
Orchard Beach, Pelham Bay, Bronx
Niagara County

South Shore of Long Island
Selkirk Shores State Park

Fair Haven Beach State Park

25.

COMPLETED
20 Sep 35

US dial 32
1h Sep 53

26 Aug hi
26 Aug )1
12 Sep Li7
20 Jan 50
12 Jan 50
12 Jan 50

2 May 50
18 Nov 52

h Dec 8

18 Apr 35
21 Jun 39
29 Apr h9
29 Apr h9
29 Jun 51
28 Dec 51
31 Mar 52
ia, dial 52
12 Mar 53

16 Dec 35
30 Aug 37
27 Jun )2

6 Aug h6
21 Oct 53
18 Jun 5h

PUBLISHED IN
HOUSE DOC. CONGRESS

325 83
764, 80
13h 82
16 82
15 82
2,3 83
90 81
239 7h
Ubu 81
7k 81
203 83
Sih 82
31 83
8h. 83
248 83
397 an
50 75
271 78
3h3 83

NEW JERSEY

Manasquan Inlet & Adjacent Beaches 15 May 36 71
Atlantic City 11 Jul 9 £38
Ocean City 15 Apr 52 18),
Sandy Hook to Barnegat Inlet 2) Mar 5h
VIRGINIA
Willoughby Spit, Norfolk 20 Nov 37 482
Colonial Beach, Potomac River 2h, Jan 9 333
Virginia Beach 25 Jun 52 186
NORTH CAROLINA
Fort Fisher 10 Nov 31 20h
Wrightsviile Beach 2 Jan 3h 218
Kitty Hawk, Nags Head & Oregon Inlet 1 Mar 35 155
State of North Carolina 22 May 47 763
SOUTH CAROLINA
Folly Beach 3a) Jan 35 156
Pawleys Is., Edisto Beach and Hunting Island 2h Jul 51
GEORGIA
St. Simon Island 18 Mar 0 820
FLORIDA
Blind Pass (Boca Ciega) 1 Feb 37 187
Miami Beach 1 Feb 37 169
Hollywood Beach 28 Apr 37 253
Daytona Beach 15 Mar 38 S7Al
Bakers Haulover Inlet 21 May 45 527
Anna Maria & Longboat Keys 12 Feb 7 760
Jupiter Island 13 Feb 7 765
Palm Beach (1) 13 Feb 7 772
Pinellas County 22 Apr 53 380
ALABAMA
Perdido Pass (Alabama Pt.) 18 Jun 5h

- = =

(1) A cooperative study of experimental steel sheet pile groins was also made,
under which methods of improvement were recommended in an interim report
dated 19 Sep 190. Final report on experimental groins was published in
1948 as Technical Memo. No. 10 of the Beach Erosion Boarde

26.

MISSISSIPPI

Hancock County
Harrison County - Initial
Harrison County - Supplement

LOUISIANA

Grand Isle

" "

TEXAS

Galveston (Gulf Shore)
Galveston Bay, Harris County
Galveston (Gulf Shore)
Galveston (Bay Shore)

CALIFORNIA

Santa Barbara - Initial
Supplement
Final

Ballona Creek & San Gabriel River (Partial)

Orange County

Coronado Beach

Long Beach

Mission Beach

Pt. Mugu to San Pedro BW
Carpinteria to Pt. Mugu

PENNSYLVANIA

Presque Isle Peninsula, Erie (Interim)
(Final)

OHIO

Erie County - Vicinity of Huron
Michigan Line to Marblehead

Cities of Cleveland & Lakewood
Chagrin River to Fairport
Vermilion to Sheffield Lake Village
Fairport to Ashtabula

Ashtabula to Penna. State Line
Sandusky to Vermilion

Sandusky Bay

Sheffield Lake Village to Rocky River
Euclid to Chagrin River

All.

3 Apr he
15 Mar hh
16 Feb 18

28 Jul 36
28 Jun 5)

10 May 3h
3a), dual, Syh
5 Feb 53
19 Jun 53

15 Jan 38
18 Feb 2
22 May 7
11 May 38
10 Jan 0
h Apr 1
3 Apr )2
h Nov 2
27 Jun 51
h Oct 51

3 Apr 2
23 Apr 52

26 Aug
30 Oct ah
22 Mar 8
22 Nov 9
2h Jul 50
1 Aug 51
1 Aug 51
7 Jul 52
31 Oct 52
31 Oct 52
25 Jun 53

682

» 2

231

220
aan
502
596
229
351
350

32
126
nay
32h

80

75

ILLINOIS
State of Illinois

WISCONSIN

Milwaukee County
Racine County
PUERTO RICO
Punta Las Marias, San Juan
HAWAII

Waikiki Beach

28.

8 Jun 50

21 May 5
5 Mar 52

5 Aug h7

5 Aug 52

28

526
88

769

227

83

19
83

80

83

AUTHORIZED COOPERATIVE BEACH EROSION STUDIES
MASSACHUSETTS
PEMBERTON POINT TO GURNET POINT. Cooperating Agency: Department of Public Works.

Problem: To determine the best methods of shore protection, prevention
of further erosion and improvement of beaches, and specifically
to develop plans for protection of Crescent Beach, the Glades,
North Scituate Beach and Brant Rock.

CONNECTICUT

STATE OF CONNECTICUT: Cooperating Agency: State of Connecticut (Acting through
the Flood Control and Water Policy Commission)

Problem: To determine the most suitable methods of stabilizing and
improving the shore line. Sections of the coast are being studied
in order of priority as requested by the cooperating agency until
the entire coast has been includede

NEW YORK

FIRE ISLAND INLET AND VICINITY: Cooperating Agency: Long Island State Parks
Commission.

Problem: To determine the most practicable and economic method of providing
adequate material to maintain the shore in a suitably stable
condition and an adequate navigation channel at Fire Island Inlet.

N. Y. STATE PARKS ON LAKE ONTARIO. Cooperating Agency: Department of Conservation,
Division of Parks.

Problem: ‘lo determine the best method of providing and maintaining certain
beaches and preventing further erosion of the shore at Fair Haven
Beach and Hamlin Beach State Parks, and the Braddock Bay area owned
by the State of New York.

NEW JERSEY

STATE OF NEW JERSEY. Cooperating Agency: Department of Conservation and Economic
Development.

Problem: To determine the best method of preventing further erosion and
stabilizing and restoring the beaches, to recommend remedial
measures, and to formulate a comprehensive plan for beach preser=
vation or coastal protection.

29,

DELAWARE
STATE OF DELAWARE: Cooperating Agency. State Highway Department.

Problem: To formulate a comprehensive plan for restoration of adequate
protective and recreational beaches and a program for providing
continued stability of the shores from Kits Hummock on Delaware
Bay to Fenwick Island on the Atlantic Ocean.

NORTH CAROLINA
CAROLINA BEACH. Cooperating Agency: Town of Carolina Beach
Problem: To determine the best method of preventing erosion of the beach.

CALIFORNIA

STATE OF CALIFORNIA. Cooperating Agency: Department of Public Works, Division
of Water Resources, State of California

Problem: To conduct a study of the problems of beach erosion and

shore protection along the entire coast of California. The
current studies cover the Santa Cruz, Orange County and San Diego

areaSe

WISCONSIN

KENOSHA. Cooperating Agency: City of Kenosha.

Problem: To determine the best method of shore protection and beach
erosion controle

MANITOWOC-TWO RIVERS. Cooperating Agencies: Wisconsin State Highway Commission,
Cities of Manitowoc and Two Rivers.

Problem: To determine the best method of shore protection and erosion control.
TERRITORY OF HAWAIL

WAIMEA & HANAPEPE, KAUAI. Cooperating Agency: Board of Harbor Commissioners,
Territory of Hawaii.

Problem: To determine the most suitable method of preventing erosion,
and of increasing the usable recreational beach area, and to
determine the extent of Federal aid in effecting the desired
improvement.

30.