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1372 9.) se ae

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WITH THE

BE S.T- MET TODS

FOR

PRODUCING AND MARKETING IT.

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WILLIS P. HAZARD,

PRESIDENT OF THE CHADD’S FORD FARMERS’ CLUB, AUTHOR OF “THE
JERSEY, ALDERNEY AND GUERNSEY COW,” ETC.

KS OF CONG
Ve OP Y RIGA nies
(Sno. ABLY.L
9, 1877. _&/
£, of WASHING

PHILADELPHIA:
PORTER & COATES,
No. 822 CHESTNUT STREET.

/ ? of el

Tt

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1877, by
PORTER & COATES, :
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

-

OF ULB
War

Westcott & THomson, ' Sueemawn & Co,
Stereotypers and Electrotypers, Philada. Printers, Philada.

BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

Butter is defined by Webster in his portly volume as
“an oily substance procured from cream or milk by
churning.” If Webster is right, then we are wrong in
denouncing any “oily substance” as being butter. Or
perhaps, so great has been the popularity of the great
lexicographer, many persons have thought they were
making and selling butter when they produce an oily or
greasy substance and put it upon the market as such,
believing it must be butter because Webster says so.

Our idea is that butter—such butter as would give a
man an appetite to look at, to smell of and taste of—is as
far removed from an oily, fatty or tallowy substance as
possible. True, it may be reduced by heat to an oily
substance—so may lard, so may tallow and other sub-
stances—but it will hardly pay any farmer to go through
the tedious process of making butter for that purpose.
The popular desire of purchasers of butter is to obtain a
firm, fine-grained article, of rich golden color, sweet, nutty,
aromatic smell and unctuous taste, put up in pound or
half-pound lumps, whether square or round, and which,
when opened out from its moist, thin white linen wrap-
per, invites both the senses of smell and taste. The taste
for butter is an acquired habit, and yet so delicate that it
is as easily turned from “strong” or “cheesy” or “greasy”
butter as it is quickly attracted to and satisfied with a

3

4 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

truly good article. But says some good housewife, “ How
can we make such an attractive article? There is a ‘knack’
in it. My neighbor knows how, and gets fifty cents a
pound all the year round, and has a demand for more
than he can supply, while ours is slow of sale at half, and
often less than half, the price.”

The object of this essay is to give rules in a plain, prac-
tical way just how to make such butter, such as will sell
itself; how to prepare it for market, and how to pack and
store it when put up in tubs or firkins. Most of it is de-
rived from the practical experience of farmers in Chester
county who supply Philadelphia, the most particular of
markets, and even send it on by express to New York, and
get from one dollar to one dollar and a quarter per pound.
In every large city there are always plenty of customers
who will pay an extra price for “gilt-edged” butter, and
there need be no fear of the market being overdone. This
will not cost more than five cents per pound extra to
make, while it will bring a much higher price, and there-
fore pay a much larger profit, than the inferior article. It
should therefore be the aim of every farmer to endeavor to
make his butter equal to the best, as it will pay both in the
pocket and in personal pride. We believe it is as easy to
make good butter as that of an inferior quality. And we
venture to say that it will elevate the moral tone of the
whole family. We even think we can tell the character
of the family by the looks of the butter, for the habits of
attention and cleanliness that are formed by the making
of good butter will be carried out in every particular.

It will be seen in the following essay that methods vary,
and that fine butter is made in many ways, and yet it will
be observed there are certain principles which rule in ali,
and that there is really less difference than appears; and
these very differences prove the possibility of general im-
provement and comparative uniformity by attention to

THE IMPORTANT RULES. 5

essentials. We have therefore confined our attention to
those essentials, and any one studying these as here laid
down should make good—yes, the BEst—butter.

CLEANLINESS AND ATTENTION.

The great secrets of making good butter are CLEANLINESS
and ATTENTION, in addition to the labor.

We will now proceed to give you the details how to
apply these rules:

Let CLEANLINEss be applied to—the cow-house: see that
it is kept clean, so that no foul odors shall be absorbed by
the new milk, and that the animals may be kept healthy,
so as to give pure wholesome milk; to the udder, so that
no scabs or filth shall be rubbed off into the bucket while
milking; to the hands, so that they shall not defile the
milk ; to the spring-house or vault, that the cream may
be kept pure; to the milk-bucket, pans, skimmer, cream-
pot and churn, so that no cheesy taint or foul odors be
communicated to the cream; and finally, to the butter-
worker and the market-tub. To all these scrupulous
cleanliness should be applied.

ATTENTION must be paid to proper feeding, regular
milking, skimming at the right time, stirring the cream
every time new quantities are added, even temperature of
the spring-house, vault or cellar, proper temperature of
the cream at time of churning, even churning and work-
ing and handling the butter.

THE IMPORTANT RULES.

Keeping in mind always these two points of cleanliness
and attention paid to the minute parts of the process,
there are six cardinal points in making first-class butter,
and NECESSARY to be attended to, to command the best
market price; they are—

Proper feeding.

6 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

Careful milking.

Care of milk and cream in the spring-house.
Churning at proper temperature and evenly.
Working and salting the butter.

Marketing and packing for market.

In addition to which there are several minor things
which are subsidiary to these, but which will receive
notice in their proper places, such as proper dairy utensils
and accommodations, etc.

Bear always in mind: From the time the milk leaves the
cow till the butter graces the table, milk, cream and butter must
be near the temperature of 60°.

THE CHEMISTRY OF BUTTER.

The production of butter by churning is both a chem-
ical and a mechanical process. Milk, according to analysis,
is composed of—

Casein, pure: CUP s...<ccncccesssnsntatsconsy s ecencestmbensrine 4.48
IBUEBED ee ccceesbedecscctaescncenodsasemencdnddceesscatntnsesatnae 3.13
Wc Beneteau wen ven concise aneemnaeee pen eneeeee aoseeen 4.77
Dalene Wasi P. cos. cas eva cs seccastasmmaceeverase< neo e essere .60
WY BEF siciccacesy deakenencousds semummsensnaaases ioonedecedeneee 87.02

100.00

Good butter should contain at least eighty-two per cent.
of fat or oil. This fat, like lard and other fat, is composed
of solid or margarine fat, and liquid or oleine. Winter but-
ter contains, of solid fat, sixty-five parts in one hundred,
summer butter only forty parts. This fact explains why
cream should be churned at different temperatures in
different seasons of the year. This fat, oily substance in
the form of globules is found in suspension in milk.

By the mechanical action of the churn the envelopes
of the globules of fat are broken, and the globules brought
into cohesion and separate from the other components of

THE CHEMISTRY OF BUTTER. 7

the cream. By the chemical process the sugar of milk is
converted into lactic acid, and the bulk of the fluid, which
was put sweet into the churn, is instantly soured.

Boussingault prescribes the proper temperature for
churning to be 59° for sweet cream, 62° for sour and 64°
for milk. About one-fourth of the total amount of butter
globules which exist in the cream escape collection, which
accounts for the rich taste of the buttermilk. Fresh butter
consists of about eighty-three per cent. of pure butter and
sixteen of milk of butter. The former can be separated by
melting the whole in a long tube; after a time the butter
proper rises to the top. It is then drawn off into water at
104°, and after two or three washings may be considered
quite pure. In this state butter is a yellow, slightly acid
substance which liquefies at a temperature of 79°. It
contains seven fatty and volatile acids, together with a
sweet oil formed of a mixture of oleine and butyrine,
which last is a substance which distinguishes butter from
other fatty bodies, although it is also found in small
quantities in the stalks or fruits of certain plants, as the
tamarind tree, and can be extracted from sugar, starch and
other substances. Under the influence of the oxygen of
the atmosphere butyrine soon turns to an acid (butyric),
which is the cause of the repulsive odor of the butter that
is called rancid. This acid is also found to combine with
another (the oleic), forming a third, the butyrolic, which
is believed to be peculiar to butter.

When exposed to the air, butter soon changes its condi-
tion. It first gets rancid on the surface from the cause
before stated, and then throughout. In this condition it
‘Is dangerous as an article of food, for its acids attack cop-
per vessels, and so poison their contents.. This can be cor-
rected by washing it first in lime-water and then in fresh
water. The preparation of lime-water is not difficult, and
its presence in small quantities neutralizes the acids which

8 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

develop in butter. Another plan is to shake the butter
rapidly in a sufficient quantity of water containing a
proportion of hypochloride of lime, and afterward wash
it in fresh water or churn it in new milk, with a slight
addition of chloride of soda, say three ounces to forty
pounds.

To detect adulterations in butter, of which there are
many, in such cases as cannot be detected by the probe,
the butter must be heated to a temperature of 112°, when
it melts and any foreign matters fall to the bottom. But
if suet has been mixed with it, it will not melt until 158°
has been reached.

The quantity of milk required to yield a pound of
butter varies from eight quarts to fourteen quarts. The
average is about nine to eleven quarts of milk for two of
cream, or one pound of butter; or, by weight, eighteen to
twenty pounds of milk should make four of cream, which
should make one of butter. Two quarts of cream are a
fair average for one pound of butter; this according to
the breed, the feed and management, the age, and the
time of the next gestation. As a general rule, cows of
small breeds yield more butter than those of large breeds, °
and the smaller individuals of a particular breed give
richer milk than large specimens of the same breed. The
larger animals and breeds, on the contrary, produce more
cheese. A comparatively dry and warm climate is favor-
able to the production of butter, and a cool, moist region
to cheese. The evenings’ milk of cows at pasture is prefer-
able for cheese, the mornings’ milk for butter, particularly
if the animal is stabled or kept in the yard. Cows eight
to ten years old will give milk producing forty to sixty
per cent. more cream than the milk of their offspring two
years old, though fed alike.

Milk may be poisoned in the udder by the cow taking
improper food and water, and the cow not be affected. If.

FEEDING FOR MILK AND BUTTER. 9

therefore, milk is so liable to taint, it follows that the
quality of butter very materially depends upon the water
s..e drinks.

Milk-coolers should never be made of zinc, as lactate of
zinc may be formed and give rise to nausea and vomiting.

FEEDING FOR MILK AND BUTTER.

Suppose the farmer is about to start in the butter-making ;
he would naturally be very careful to select those cows
which promised to give not only quantity, but quality.
It is foreign to our purpose to discuss the different breeds
or the best mode of judging of the quality of the cows,
but for butter cows we can safely recommend the Jersey,
or, popularly styled, Alderney, and the Guernsey. Their
cream is very plenty, very rich in butyraceous qualities
and of fine color. If not to be had at satisfactory prices,
at least one of these breeds to every six cows of other
breeds should be kept to color the butter; and if the
farmer will get a good Jersey bull, he will soon improve
the quality of his herd. To judge a cow for butter, her
hide should be thin, soft and mellow, and under the hair
of a deep yellow color; her udder should be soft and yel-
low skinned, well covered with zigzag veins, large and
broad; her tail at the end rich yellow; the inside of her
ears and around the eyelids yellow. With such marks,
and the marks for quantity also, the purchaser will not
make a mistake in selecting her. The system of Guenon
on escutcheons, or milk-mirrors on the udder and thighs,
is invaluable for testing the quantity and quality of milk,
and the length of time she will milk up to or near her
calving. The cows which give poor milk should be sold
to the butchers, and their places supplied with good ones.
~ With a good lot of cows, and a bull that has a good
escutcheon, the farmer must pay attention to the feeding
and watering. Out of nothing can come nothing; there-

10 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

fore to have good butter we must have good milk. The
cow is in an artificial state on a farm, highly stimulated to
produce milk as nearly all the time as possible. There-
fore the machine must be supplied with the pabulum to
turn out milk rich enough to make butter. This it is not
in the province of this essay to say much of; but in sum-
mer-time the cows should have plenty of good rich pas-
ture, so as to fill themselves soon and easily and with sweet
and nutritious grass that has strength, so that they may
not have to work too hard for their living, and can lie
down and chew the cud and make milk. The pastures
should be kept clean of weeds, for they will give a bitter
taste to the milk, and undefiled by pigs and poultry.
There should be groups of trees, necessary for their com-
fort, and comfort promotes secretion of milk. Water,
access to which should be easy and to be had at all times,
should always be pure, whether running or in troughs.
No access should be allowed to muddy, standing or stag-
nant water; this is very important, or the milk will not
be pure nor the animal healthy. Shade should be pro-
vided in each field, where the animals could become cooled
and be Jess annoyed with the flies.

Toward the close of summer and in the fall when the
pasture is becoming short, the flow of milk and its rich-
ness can be kept up by cutting for them green corn fodder,
sorghum, Hungarian grass, or giving them an early crop
of sugar-beets. It is very important corn should be sown
broadcast or drilled in, so as to materially help out the
pasture at this time. Bran with a little cornmeal may be
fed at evening; it will promote the flow of milk and help
keep them in good condition to commence the winter
with.

In winter they should be fed upon the best of hay;
clover and timothy mixed makes the best, and if cut early
and cured to be as near the summer vrass as possible, it is

FEEDING TURNIPS AND CABBAGE. 11

the best for a reliance. In addition, they should have
. about ten quarts bran and cornmeal mixed; mangolds,
carrots, parsnips, small potatoes and such roots, for vari-
ety and to keep their systems open. Corn-fodder or blades,
shorts, middlings, oil-eake, pumpkins, ete., are all good.
Corn-fodder alone or as a reliance will not make good
butter. The effect of clover upon the supply of milk is
well known; the dry material of it is equal to beans for
albumen. Albuminous matter is the most essential ele-
ment of food for the milch-cow, and any deficiency in the
supply will be attended with loss of condition and dimi-
nution in the quality of her milk. A cow can yield a far
greater weight of butter than she can store up in fat. A
cow may give two pounds of butter a day, while half that
quantity would not be laid on in fat if she was fed for
that purpose. Winter is the time it is most difficult to
produce good-colored butter and free from streaks, and
the harder to come; judicious feeding will help this very
much. Where the stock kept is numerous enough, it will
pay well to steam or cook the food and feed the hay-tea
to the cows; with a little salt through it, they will eat up
everything greedily. A lump of rock-salt should always
be where they can have access to it.

FEEDING TURNIPS AND CABBAGE.

The ease with which turnips and cabbage can be grown,
and the quantity produced on an acre, induces many
farmers to feed them to their milch-cows.. This should .
never be done where good butter is desired. They make
most admirable feed for sheep, improving and making the
mutton more juicy; also they are good for steers and dry
cows. But it does seem impossible to prevent their flavor-
ing the milk. If they must be fed, the best way is not to
give the turnips or cabbage to the cows just before milking,
but only immediately after the milking is done, particu-

12 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

larly at night. A little cornmeal with salt sprinkled over
them after they are chopped up is also an improvement.

If you have fed the turnips and have got the taste in the
milk, then, when you put the milk into the pans, to every
eight quarts mix one of boiling water. This will annihi-
late the taste of the turnips, and facilitate the rising and
the churning of the cream. But do not attempt to put
such butter up for keeping; use it or sell it within a short
time.

Another receipt is: Put a piece of saltpetre the size of a
pea into the pail before milking; the heat of the milk will
dissolve it and destroy the taste of the turnips. Another
is: Put a teacupful of sour cream into the clean cream-jar,
then empty the milk into it on the sour cream. Another
is: Put your milk in a kettle, then place the kettle inside
of a larger one on the stove that has boiling water in it;
stir gently the milk or cream until lukewarm, then to
every two gallons throw in one ounce saltpetre, powdered
fine, and continue stirring until so hot you cannot. bear
your finger in the milk or cream. Then remove the milk-
kettle and pour the milk into the churn. Repeat the pro-
cess with the rest of the milk or cream. Cover the churn,
and put it in a cold place for the night, or at least till the
cream or milk is quite cold again; then churn in the usual
manner. Do not add any hot water while churning.
Another is: Add to every two gallons of milk, as it is
drawn, a dessertspoonful of a solution of nitre; or, add
to every gallon a tablespoonful of the clear solution of
half an ounce of chloride of lime in a gallon of water.

COLORING BUTTER.

It has become a common practice to color butter with
the extract of annatto to help its sale. This is all wrong.
The color should be derived from the food, and only from
early cured hay of the best quality and cornmeal can

‘SSHTAUVHS "TO Aq pauMo ‘ploy WNIWaIg [vIUUaIUaD 94) JO 9uD

“WINALL

COLORING BUTTER. 13

this be done. The cow must be well wintered to produce
good butter.

As it is the general practice to color butter, we may as
well give the best processes by which it is done. A small
quantity of annatto dissolved in warm water or milk is
put into the cream before churning. But a richer tint is
produced by coloring the butter directly. To prepare the
annatto for this, steep it in butter for some hours over a
slow fire, then strain through a fine cloth into a jar and
keep in a cool place. When ready to work the butter,
melt a small quantity of this mixture and work it in
carefully. An inexperienced hand is apt to work the
butter too much in endeavoring to produce the same shade
of color throughout. Coloring in the cream obviates this
difficulty. Carrots of the deep yellow or orange variety
give the most natural color and agreeable flavor. They
should be grated, the juice expressed through a thin
cloth and put into the cream before churning.

The best and sweetest butter is produced in May and
June (never so good in August and November), for then
there is a supply of rich, juicy food, and the air is pure,
and all things combine to render the dairyman’s task easy
-and delightful. But when the sun has scorched the vege-
tation and impaired its nutritive properties, and the
temperature of the atmosphere is like an oven, then there
is need of skill in providing succulent food, and counter-
acting the opposing influences of Nature. And still later
the supply of roots, pumpkins, ete., will keep up the good
color and richness of the butter in December. In winter
the stables must be kept warm, but not with confined air.
The stables can be kept sweet by the daily use of plaster,
charcoal, prepared muck, or an occasional sprinkling of
dilute sulphuric acid or solution of copperas. The cows
should be put out nearly every day for air and exercise.
They must at all times have suitable shelter.

14 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

METHOD OF MILKING.

Milking should be done regularly, quietly and thor-
oughly, yet quickly. Twice a day is often enough, and
should be done as near six o’clock in the morning and
s:x in the evening as possible. There are some instances
where cows require to be milked in the middle of the day
to relieve their udder, but as a general rule it is a practice
to be avoided, as its tendency is not to further retention
of the milk in the udder. Milking should be done quietly,
without any scolding or kicking or hurting the animal,
and she will then habitually come gladly for the operation,
stand quietly and let down her full flow. It should be
done thoroughly, and as near as possible always by the
same person. There is a great difference in milkers; some
will get the last drop, while others will leave the richest
part in the udder. It has been well proved that the strip-
pings will yield from ten to twenty per cent. more cream
than the rest of the milk; how important it is, then, the
cow should be milked clean! Besides, if she is not made
to yield all that she has daily, she will dry up sooner, and
gradually fail in the quantity until it decreases per-
ceptibly. Cows should never be hurriedly driven to the
milking-shed, as it agitates and heats the milk, and some-
times makes it bloody, and makes the cow nervous and
overheated, at which time she will not let down the flow
so readily. Milking-sheds are now used on most well-
ordered farms, as they are cooler, cleaner and the animals
are less worried by the flies.

The best plan for milking-houses is to have nearly the
whole sides in open doors and windows, which can be
opened in summer and make the place airy and cool, and
closed in winter, and then used as a stable for young stock
About twenty-two by thirty-six is a good size, with a row
of stanchions on each side, and mangers fitted to hold

METHOD OF MILKING. 15

bran or cut feed. The floor is best made of clay well
rammed. The entry-way between the two rows of stalls
ought to be wide enough to drive a cart through. The
house, with very little extra cost, may be made two stories
high, for the storing of hay.

It is astonishing to see how regularly each one goes to
her stall, as they soon learn from habit. They should
either be chained to an iron ring sliding up and down on
an iron bar attached to the stall, or put in stanchions.
The latter are the easiest and best, though we do not
approve of them for the long winter use, as too confining.
A lump of rock-salt in each trough is a good thing to
keep them quiet while milking. It is doubtful policy to
give them any feed while milking. Some advocate it, as
it brings them more willingly to the stall and keeps them
quiet. Others again, and justly, assert that it distracts
their attention and they will not let down their milk so
freely and regularly. It certainly does seem, if their
attention is taken off from the milking to their eating,
they will pay more attention to the latter, and be apt to
be more nervous at the interruption. The salt will answer
the purpose, and occupy them just enough to keep them
quiet. Kicking cows, though they often prove to be the
best, are certainly not the pleasantest; they are vicious
from some hidden cause of suffering or pain caused by
the operation of milking. Various remedies and inven-
tions have been suggested, but perhaps a strap buckled
around the legs is about as efficacious as any.

The cow must be looked after as soon as she comes in;
and if the calf does not take all the milk from her, she
must be milked sufficiently after to prevent her bag from
becoming feverish and caking, as one milking from a fever-
ish cow would spoil a whole churning, and that would
spoil an entire firkin in which it was packed, though it
might not be perceptible for immediate use, and none but

16 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

the skilful butter-maker would perceive it in the churn-
ing. Such milk froths and foams; and when it does this,
as well as from other causes, it is always safest to sell the |
butter from it for immediate use, or pack it separately in
a firkin to sell for what it will bring.

CARE OF THE MILE.

The milk should be taken to the spring-house and
poured through the strainer into milk-pans, which should
then be set in the water of the spring flowing through the
house, as it will promptly take the animal heat out of the
milk, which is quite important. The advantages of a
spring-house are decided over a vault or cellar, as the
temperature is more likely to be even and uniform; be-
sides, the air of the house is not so confined as that of
either the vault or the cellar, and is free from any impure
contamination from decaying vegetables, meat, or other
substances usually stored there.

The question of the material for the pans is not decided,
some recommending glass, earthenware or tin; wooden
pails should never be used. The first are preferable, but
too expensive, from liability to breakage, and require more
care in handling; the second have the same objection, and
not being made with care have roughnesses which will
hold the milk, which, though in small particles, may be-
come rancid, For ourselves—and it is customary with the
best Chester county butter-makers—we use the best tin pans,
painted on the outside, with bales to them; not handles
on the sides, as they require two hands to lift them, lower
stooping of the person, agitate the cream more if they have
to be moved, and the projecting handles are more in the
way. The tin pans are light to handle, quite as readily
cleaned and kept clean as the others. They should be
kept perfectly sweet and clean. They should be scalded
with boiling water to prevent the development of crypto-

SETTING THE MILK FOR CREAM. 17

gamic germs, rinsed in pure spring-water, turned down to
drain, and then exposed with the inside to the sun to
sweeten. For this purpose a bench should be kept outside
of the house large enough to hold a number, for which
also they can be piled in rows one above the other. In
summer it is necessary to see that all utensils are cooled
perfectly before using them.

SETTING THE MILK FOR CREAM.

It is a mooted question as to the depth the pans shall
be filled for setting the cream, and the arguments are
strong for both deep and shallow pans, those who argue
the matter generally remaining firm that their own way is
the best. Those in favor of deep pans, which should hold
about twelve quarts, or rather deep setting of the milk,
argue that the cream will rise to the top under all circum-
stances, and therefore there is less exposed to the air to
become contaminated or cheesy and form into a skin, as
it will do if exposed too long. Now, this objection is ob-
viated if the milk is skimmed regularly every day, as it
should be. We favor the shallow setting of the milk, say
from three to four inches, as we believe there will be more
surface to receive the cream, and the whole of it will rise,
and less will be retained in the milk from any effort te
rise. If the air of the milk-house is kept pure, and so that
the winds will not blow over the surface of the pans, the
cream will come out all right; if disturbed while the cream
is rising, it becomes agitated too much for the perfect sep-
aration of the two.

In many of the butter factories the water is in tanks or
vats about eighteen inches deep, sunk in the earth, in
which are set tin pails twenty inches deep and eight to
ten inches in diameter, the milk standing seventeen inches
deep inthe pail. The cream nearly all rises in twenty-four
hours, is never allowed to stand over thirty-six hours, and

2

18 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

is skimmed before the milk sours. In large dairies the
setting of the milk in deep vessels saves the washing of
many shallow ones; and if the temperature is kept about
60° uniformly, the deep ones will probably be the most
economical.

The milk should not be set more than thirty-six hours,
and it is better if skimmed in twenty-four hours, as what
little might be lost in quantity would be gained in quality.
But the time depends upon the temperature; just long
enough for all the cream to rise, and no longer, is the rule.
It should be skimmed before it becomes acid at all or thick-
ened. Many who make first-rate butter let it stand thirty-
six hours before skimming; but if it once begins to turn
partly to water, the cream will have a bitter taste that can
never be overcome. ‘The first cream that rises is the best,
both in flavor and color. It should be slightly acid before
it will make butter; and in cool weather it must be put in
a warm place for that purpose. Itis unnecessary to scald
the milk or cream; also, it gives the butter an unpleasant
flavor, and it is useless labor. An ounce of fine salt to a
three-gallon jar of cream, when you begin to fill, is an im-
provement, and an addition of salt to the cream makes it
churn quicker. Cream should not be longer than three
days, or a week at furthest, in collecting before it is
churned, to make the sweetest butter. As a general rule,
the quicker cream is converted into butter, the sweeter
and better is the butter. At the proper time to be re-
moved it will have a bright, healthy appearance, a rich
yellow, uniform color and an adherence of particles.
Sour cream contains more casein than sweet, and will not
retain its fine flavor so long, nor will the butter made of
it have so fine aroma; slightly acid can hardly be de-
tected. Itis one of the mooted points, we confess, whether
sweet cream yields as good and long-keeping butter as
cream from sour milk. The rule with very many in

WINTER CARE OF MILK. 19

Chester county is to skim from sour milk, as, they say, all
the cream is not obtained from sweet milk. But it is con-
sidered an important point to skim as soon as possible
after the acidulous fermentation has commenced, so as to
avoid all danger of absorption.

SKIMMING AND CARE OF THE CREAM.

Many are so particular about putting into the cream-pot
only cream they will use only a skimmer with holes in it.
This is unnecessary, as a simple shallow tin saucer will
not take up milk enough to make the butter any longer
in coming, and will be more likely to get all the cream.
It does no harm to skim the milk close, sufficient care
being taken that the cream does not stand too long, as
sour milk in the cream will cause rancidity in the butter.
The cream-can should be not less than eighteen inches
deep and ten to twelve inches broad, for a small dairy ;
for a large dairy, cans holding about twelve to fifteen gal-
lons are a good size. Upon adding cream twice a day, it
should be stirred with a wooden spatula, and the surface
all around the can above the cream be carefully wiped, to
clean off any drops that may be splashed on the sides, as
if left exposed in such small particles, it would become
tainted and give an unpleasant odor to the rest of the
cream. The can should be kept covered only with a
coarse-meshed muslin or a piece of gauze, to keep the
flies out and let the air in. The can may be made of tin,
glass or well-glazed or enameled stoneware, not in the
ordinary earthenware crocks, as the acid affects the com-
mon coarse glazing and imparts a mineral poison to the
cream,

WINTER CARE OF MILE.

The winter care of milk requires rather different care
from that of summer, the effort being how to keep it warm

20 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

enough rather than to keep it cool. On the approach of
severe cold weather a dairy apartment should be provided,
warmed in some way by artificial heat. Circulating hot-
water pipes are the best for maintaining a uniform tem-
perature. The temperature of the room may be lower
than will suffice to coagulate the milk, but it must not be »
kept at so low a temperature, nor remain so long as to
become bitter. When the firm, leathery appearance of
the cream, together with its thickness, indicates that it has
all risen, an incision may be made in it with the skimmer,
and by dextrously holding the cream back, the milk
may be poured from the cream expeditiously and without
waste. The cream should at no time stand longer than
three days without skimming. The cream may now be
stored in a cold apartment.

To hurry the rising of the cream, particularly in rooms
where the heat is not of the uniform temperature of 60°, the
milk may be scalded as soon as strained, which will give
the cream a fair start. If scalding is not sufficient, two
or three spoonfuls of sour milk which has soured quickly
and is not bitter may be added to each pan of milk when
it is set away; this will sour the pan and make it rise
quicker.

In winter the cream may be prepared for churning thus:
The day before churning the cream is all mixed together
as evenly as possible, so that no fresh cream will be in a
can by itself, and warmed over a stove, stirred constantly,
to a temperature of from sixty-five to seventy degrees, and
then placed in a room where it will be warm enough to
have the whole get slightly sour. The next day it is
warmed up again in the same way to the desired temper-
ature for churning. If the cream when at the right tem-
perature is too thick and stiff, it will come too soon, and
all the cream will not be churned and some be wasted
into the buttermilk. Such cream should be thinned with

SPRING-HOUSES AND ICE-HOUSES. 21

milk to diminish the friction and retard the process, so
that all may have time to be churned alike.

We have heard of excellent butter produced where the
practice was to rinse the milk-pans out with alum-water
immediately before putting in the milk. This causes the
cream to gather more rapidly, and does not in the least —
affect the flavor of either the milk or the butter. The
experiment might be tried.

SPRING-HOUSES AND ICE-HOUSES.

No farmer can hope to make first-class butter profitably
without plenty of pure soft water upon his place—at least
without so much care and trouble that it will not pay.
Pure soft water is necessary for the cows, and it is neces-
sary in making the butter in all its stages. Those who
have a spring of cool, soft water on the farm have one of
the first elements of success; the running water through
the spring-houses helps to carry off all noxious odors and
preserve an even temperature. To such we say, Build a
spring-house, as the animal heat can be promptly ab-
stracted from the milk after milking. Those who have
not should do the next best thing, and that is build an
ice-house from twelve to eighteen feet square and deep,
the larger and deeper the better, along the shady side of a
hill, so that the ice may readily be hauled to the top of the
hill and be dumped in. Attached to the ice-house, and the
one side of the ice-house forming one side of the dairy-
house, build a dairy-house with its floor below the bottom
of the ice-house. In the floor of the ice-house, through
the centre, construct a ditch or reservoir, with the floor of
the ice-house gently sloping from the two sides to it, so that
it will receive the drainage or meltings from the ice. This
drain should be slightly sloping into the dairy-room, so
that the water should proceed that way for an outlet. In
the dairy-room the reservoir should widen out and be of

22 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

shallow depth, say four or five inches—of depth enough
to come higher up the pans than the milk is inside, and
of sufficient width and length to accommodate two or
four rows of milk-pans, as many as may be needed for
the size of the dairy. The reservoir should be built of
brick or slabs of slate or stone, and laid in cement. The
lowest end of that in the dairy-room should have an
outlet hole, with a perforated cover or valve-trap, so that
the surplus water should gradually escape, and at the
same time prevent odors and mice or other creatures from
coming in through the outlet pipe. That part of the res-
ervoir in the ice-house should be covered with a grating
of iron or wood, to protect it from contact with the ice
and yet allow the meltings from it to drain into it. Thus
there will be always a supply of cool water, and of about
an equal temperature, to keep the milk at a uniform de-
gree. To construct it to act properly, the whole should
be on a liberal scale, which would also allow a separate
portion to be partitioned off, so that a stove might be
placed therein to heat water for washing the pans, and
have room to do the churning and work the butter.

The spring-house should be built over or very near the
head of the spring, so that the water will not have to run
any distance exposed to the sun and be warmed. Itshould
be about thirteen by twenty feet for a dairy of twenty cows,
and one foot extra length for every additional cow, built
of stone, nearly two feet thick, about twelve feet high,
with a shingle roof; or, better, a double roof with ventila-
tion through the open cornices; or, still better, with an
entire shed built a foot higher than the roof over the
whole house, and extending as a porch on each side some
six to eight feet; or of brick with hollow walls to keep it
cool; with not more than three windows, one on each side
and one at the end opposite the door; the windows pro-
tected with a very fine screen of wire gauze on the outside

SPRING-HOUSES AND ICE-HOUSES. 23

to keep out the flies and gnats, dust, etc., and on the inside
with double glazed sash to raise and lower, so as at times
to control the temperature ; or a single sash opening back
and fastening against the wall, or made to slide along the
wall to and fro; or the windows may be long and low, near
the top of the house, simply covered with wire gauze,
which would give constant ventilation at the upper part
of the room, without letting the wind blow over the milk,
for the wind dries the cream, and dried cream will not
make butter. The spring, entering under the end wall,
spreads itself around the three sides of the room, escap-
ing at either end through a small grating set in the wall;
from the spring-house it may be conducted into a tank or
vat under a shed and used for washing purposes. The
water flows around the three sides of the centre (the door
forming the fourth side), which is raised some four to six
inches above the water-way. The water-ways should be
wide enough to take in two rows of milk-pans easily, and
deep enough to allow the water always to be a little higher
than the milk in the pans. They, as well as the centre
raised portion, are better made of large slabs of slate, set
in cement, or brick, or large dressed flat stones, either one
set in cement; or if made of rough stone, they should be
faced with cement to make them smooth and water-tight ;
or if a good mason is employed, the water-troughs and
centre platform may be made of the best quality of lime or ©
cement and sand, which, if allowed to stand long enough
before being used, will become as hard as a solid rock
floor. In either case the floor should be smooth and free
from cracks, so that it can be kept perfectly clean and
sweet. The walls and overhead should be plastered and
whitewashed at least twice a year, and kept free from dust
and cobwebs.

In such a spring-house the milk can be kept still, for if
stirred much it will become sour, at a uniform tempera-

24 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

ture of about 58 to 60°, so conducive to the best forma-
tion of cream. In very hot weather blocks of ice may
be laid in the water between the pans, and in winter a
vessel of water may be kept on the stove to evaporate and
keep the air of the dairy-room moist. In an adjoining
room or house can be carried on the churning and butter-
making, or in a neighboring shed ean be put up the horse-
power and churn for large churnings.

DAIRY-ROOMS.

Everything must be removed that will impart impure
odors or taint the atmosphere of the dairy-room, and thus
injure the butter. The shoes of the dairyman should be
removed when coming from the barnyard, and exchanged
outside the spring-house door for another pair kept there
for the purpose. Otherwise it would be impossible to
prevent carrying in sufficient filth to taint the atmosphere
and communicate it to the milk. Another source of
injury to the taste of butter is the imperceptible odor
from kerosene lamps, which have often to be used in the
dairy-house. This can be obviated by having the lamps
set in sockets, and a pipe leading outside placed over the
top of the chimney, which will carry off the odors. Or
a box containing the lamp and reflectors can be so con-
structed, either built in the wall with glass front on the
inside of the house and opened only from the outside, or
arranged in the window. It should project on the outside
in either case, so as to be readily reached from the out-
side, and should have a pipe for the exit of the smoke. It is
most important to have pure air, and that the milk-room
be clean, cool, dry, airy and well ventilated. The tem-
perature should range about 60° to 65°, never higher than
the latter and not lower than 55°, as cream separates best
in acool place. Milk set and kept at a temperature of 40°
will not sour, and the cream will become bitter before it

DAIRY-ROOMS. 25

is fit to skim. If the milk is set to rise in a hot room at
-a temperature of 70° to 72°, it will very soon become sour
and thick, will not yield so much cream, and will make
soft, oily butter, which will soon become rancid. The
dairy should front the north and be shaded by trees, so
as to admit the light and air, as light is necessary to de-
velop color in cream, but exclude the sunshine and the
heat. Evergreens are the best for this purpose, as they
cool the atmosphere in summer and warm it in winter.
A good ice-house is a necessary appendage to a dairy, as
a free use of ice is useful in preserving an equilibrium
of temperature, and often in marketing the butter in hot
weather.

In many of the Western States, where the ground is
not so rolling and hilly as some more favored regions with
springs, a good spring-house can be made near a well,
which will be very convenient and nearer the house than
the spring might happen to be. The ground may be ex-
cavated about four feet, by some twelve feet square, and
a solid stone wall two feet thick laid in cement, and four
feet high. The floor inside is laid in cement at the bot-
tom of the excavation, slightly inclining to one corner, for
complete drainage and washing. The wall is built up
full width, four feet, and then an offset of eighteen inches
is made to the rear, or outside, where the wall is carried
up two feet higher, but only six inches thick, to form
the foundation of the frame superstructure; on this is
built a balloon frame with eight-feet posts, boarded
outside and in, and the wall made as tight as possi-
ble. Upon the ledge created by the offset, a narrow
wall, about four inches high and wide, is made on the
front edge of this ledge, by which, being well plastered
with the cement, a gutter or vat is made some four inches
deep, and of course thirty-two inches wide, with a slight
descent to the corner opposite to that where the water is

26 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

introduced. Into this vat the fresh milk is set while
warm, and cold water conducted to it from the well. The
milk cools rapidly and a low temperature is maintained
through the night. At each milking the pans are removed
to the shelves or on the cement floor in the centre, to make
room for the fresh milk. The water can be pumped into
a trough which will carry the water to the dairy-house
any distance it may be placed from the house; but the
nearer the better, so that the water shall not cool in its
passage. If it is introduced in the centre of one side, the
gutter should slope both ways to the corners, and follow-
ing the sides, be allowed to escape at either far corner
through a pipe built in the cement. These escapes
should be furnished with plugs to hold the water, so as
to allow it to be changed once or twice daily.

The following is the exact plan of a model dairy-house
of one of the best Chester county butter-makers, and is
one of the most complete, considering its cost. The main
building, which is built on a hillside, is fifty feet long by
thirteen wide. The room for the milk is six feet below
the surface and twelve feet from floor to ceiling. This
allows ample room for ventilation and light by side-win-
dows. The troughs for holding the water in which the
milk is set are formed of brick and cement, with their
bottoms one foot above the level of the floor of the build-
ing. They are twenty-eight inches wide, so as to take in
two rows of ordinary milk-pans. Across one end is a
trough formed similar to the others, except that it is so ar-
ranged as to receive and hold the water to a greater depth
than the side-troughs, so as to contain the cream-cans.
In all there is an ingenious arrangement for increasing or .
decreasing the depth of the water so as to suit the temper-
ature outside. The water is drawn from a well by a
“telegraph” pump, and the surplus is passed off by a

DAIRY-ROOMS. 27

drain, secured against the upward passage of odors by a
“bell-trap.” During the winter no water is used, and a
fire is lighted to keep the temperature to the proper point.
The utmost care is taken in ventilation, even to a small
ventilator under which to set the lamp used when too
dark for skimming without artificial light. At the front
and in each side of the main building is a wing thirteen
feet square; one of these contains the power-machine, the
other the needful arrangement for heating the water and
washing pans. For working the butter a large inclined
table and lever are used, and the printing is done by an
ingenious machine for stamping and marking in squares.
This milk-house is made for a dairy of fifty cows; and it
would seem, therefore, the proper proportions are thirteen
feet wide by one in length for each cow. This house it
would be hard to improve on.

Ifa cellar, or, better, a vault, is used, it should be plastered,
whitewashed, have a stone or cement floor, be furnished
with wire-gauze-covered windows, and be appropriated
exclusively to milk, cream and butter. A dairy-house
built upon the ground, scientifically constructed and
properly shaded, might doubtless be preferable to a
cellar; yet, all else being conducted right, very good
butter may be made in a cellar properly located and ven-
tilated. The flues built in the walls of the house should
go down into the cellar, and by leaving the stove-pipe
holes open a free circulation is created. In the vault the
pans are set directly upon the floor.

In either the vault, the cellar or the spring-house, as
the important consideration is to maintain a low, uniform
temperature, it is absolutely necessary to have a reliable
thermometer; and this should be hung as near the centre
of the apartment as possible and a foot or eighteen inches
from the floor, as the temperature is often quite different
there from that above. A lactometer is also a most useful

28 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

instrument to test the quality of the different cows of the
dairy.

To keep midges, flies, etc., out of the milk, make hoops
of rattan, strips of hickory or ash, or springs out of dress-
hoops, cover them with mosquito-netting, wire-gauze or
very open mesh-muslin—something that will not stop the
circulation of the air—and when the milk is cool lay these
over the pans.

CHURNING.

Churning in summer is best to be done in the morning
early, while it is cool; in winter, it must be done in a
warm place. Rapid churning is not the best, but an even,
steady, moderately slow time is; fifty to sixty strokes of
the dash per minute will generally bring the butter in
thirty minutes. If the cream is slightly acid and of the
right temperature, say 55° to 60°, it will require less than
half an hour. We believe that butter produced in about
that time—or in forty minutes—is better for keeping
than that produced in longer or shorter time. If it is not
the right temperature, set it in a moderately warm place
until it is, or place the can in a large boiler of warm water
till it is right. The churn should not be soaked over night.
In the morning put in a quart of boiling water, churn it
one minute, then draw it off and pour in a pailful of cold
water, to remain in the churn five minutes. The cream
is then agitated until a complete separation of the fatty
matter from the milky fluid has been effected. All the
buttery particles of the cream or milk are encased with
thin pellicles of casein or cheesy particles of milk. If the
churning is done so quickly as to fail to break up or sepa-
rate the casein pellicles from the oily or buttery particles,
the butter will have that cheesy flavor which all dislike
somuch. If the butter will not gather, pour into the
churn some ice-cold milk. Much butter is spoiled by
churning the cream too warm.

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CHURNING. 29

The churn should be as nearly straight up and down as
possible, and the dash should stir all the milk every stroke
it makes, so that the butter should all come at the same
time. Care should be taken that the dash shall strike the
top of the cream and the bottom of the churn at every
stroke. If the churn be filled, so that the dash cannot
strike the top of the cream, the operation can scarcely be
accomplished. Rapid churning should be avoided at the
commencement, though the motion may be accelerated
after the cream curdles with butter. There are many
favorite churns of the barrel pattern, of which the most
used are Spain’s Atmospheric churn, Blanchard’s churn,
Davis’s World’s Fair. We believe, however, the best is
the simplest—the old-fashioned upright churn, which can
be so arranged as to work the dasher with dog or horse-
power.

The size of the churn and cther dairy utensils should of
course be proportioned to the requirements of the dairy.
In large dairies in Chester county are used barrel-churns
worked by horse-power. The churn is a large barrel, bulg-
ing only enough to make the hoops drive well, with a jour-
nal or bearing in the centre of each head, and resting on
two uprights, so that it may be revolved by horse-power,
or in favorable situations by water-power from an overshot
wheel. This barrel has stationary short arms attached to
the inside of the staves, so arranged as to cause the great-
est disturbance of the milk as it passes through them in
the turning of the churn. At one side is a large opening
secured by a cover that is firmly fastened in its place; this
is the cover or lid of the churn. Nearit is a hole less than
an inch in diameter for testing the state of the churning
and for drawing off buttermilk; this is closed with a
wooden plug. This hole also allows the escape of the
very last drop of the buttermilk or water when the butter
has collected.

50 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

Churn as often as once a week, and as much oftener as
circumstances will permit.

Upon churning, add the cream upon all the milk in the
dairy.

In Scotland a syphon is sometimes used to separate the
milk from the cream, instead of skimming the pans.

Butter-makers in this country seem to be thoroughly
divided in opinion upon the question of churning the
whole milk or only the cream. By far the greatest ma-
jority in this country churn the cream, while in England,
Scotland and a good part of Ireland the milk is churned
quite in as many cases as is the cream. Carefully con-
ducted experiments have proved that there is a gain in
quantity where the milk is churned of full seven per cent.
over the yield of cream alone. In small dairies the qual-
ity must be much improved, for by churning the milk the
risk of tainted cream is avoided. Some of our best premium
dairies churn the milk. The most common objection to
churning the milk is the labor, but power is now so cheap
(horse, dog or sheep) that.the objection has little force as
compared with the increased quantity and improved qual-
ity. Besides, when the labor, time and trouble of skim-
ming and taking care of the cream are taken into account,
we doubt whether there is any increase of labor.

Another objection to churning the whole milk is the
amount of caseine contained in it. Caseine is highly
nitrogenous, and soon decays, emitting a disagreeable
odor and imparting it readily to other substances.

Where the entire milk and cream are churned, when
the milk is strained it is allowed to remain without being
skimmed until the cream is sufficiently ripe for churning.
This point is ascertained when a thick, uneven scum or
veil appears on its surface. As in the other case, each
meal’s milk is always strained into separate vessels; and
although all the cream, when put into the churn, is not of

WORKING THE BUTTER. 31

the same degree of ripeness, still this does not affect the
whole; and the temperature, as also the variation of mo-
tion during the process of churning, is precisely the same;
besides, the quality and produce of butter will be not only
equal, but more than from cream only.

Mr. C. Petersen, of Windhausen, Germany, gives the
following as the rule for churning whole milk:

“The evening milk of one day and the morning milk
of the next are churned together. The former is strained
-into a tub directly after milking, and the latter added to it
next morning. In summer the milk is allowed to stand,
at most, two feet high in the tub; in the winter about two
and a half feet. In very hot weather the morning milk is
cooled down to about 60° before it is added to the evening
milk. Under these circumstances the milk is nearly always
ripe for churning when the evening milk has stood thirty-
six and the morning twenty-four hours. The temperature
of the milk when being churned should be about 65°, or a
few degrees warmer than when cream is churned. The
churning itself should be as little hurried as possible,
since, the butter globules being more widely separated in
milk than in cream, rather more time is needed for them
to collect.”

WORKING THE BUTTER.

As soon as the butter has become hard draw off the
buttermilk, and remove the butter with a wooden clapper
or paddle into a wooden tray, which may be either oblong
or round in shape; we prefer the latter, as it is more easily
moved round with a weight of butter in it. For a large
quantity of butter there is used in Chester county a butter-
worker table, with a substantial framework supporting a
circular inclined platform, over which the manipulator
rolls a cone-shaped wooden cylinder, followed by a
scraper, which constantly replaces the butter before the

32 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

cylinder, and as the buttermilk is pressed out it runs
rapidly away to the centre, through a tube, down into a
bucket below. Its merits are that it rapidly works the
milk out, and uniformly, without the hand coming once
in contact with the butter, and is cleanly, as the milk at
once flows into the bucket.

Another butter-worker table is somewhat similar. It is
a revolving table about three feet in diameter, with an iron
cog-wheel in the centre. The table is sloping to the outer
rim, down which the milk as worked out is carried to a
pail below. Over the table revolves a fluted, cone-shaped
wooden cylinder, which, as it presses the butter, indents a
number of gutters in it, which hasten the escape of the
milk. At each side are bevelled blocks, which force the
butter back again into rolls, ready for a new pressure by
the cylinder. As the roller does not quite touch the table,
there is no actual crushing of the particles.

Another butter-worker is made of a slab four feet long,
twenty-five inches wide at the broadest part, tapering down
to five inches wide at lower end, where an opening allows
the escape of the buttermilk to a pail below, and a slab into
which a long wooden lever, either square or eight-sided or
a corrugated cone, fits loosely and allows it free movement
over the entire surface of the slab. It has beveled sides,
and the butter is placed upon the slab and worked by
pressing the lever down upon the successive eee of it
until it is all worked.

Some use a large marble slab, set slightly inclined upon
a table to allow the milk to run off as it is worked out,
with a gutter at the lower side to carry the milk into a
pail; upon this the butter is easily worked, and the slab
can be kept very clean.

If butter is washed after the buttermilk is all, or nearly
all. extracted, as many do, it should stand but a short time
after salting before it is worked enough to remove nearly

WORKING THE BUTTER. 33

all the water, when it may be resalted, if necessary. It
may then stand in a cool place, in thoroughly pure air,
in order to harden, until the next day, when it should be
worked and made ready for market. Butter should not
be allowed to stand long before working, as it is apt to
become streaked and to require working over to restore a
uniform color; it is also apt to become rancid if neglected.

WORKING THE BUTTER.

Working the butter is one of the most delicate opera-
tions, and therefore requiring care, particularly the second
working. If not worked enough, it will spoil; if worked
too much, it is spoiled already. We will give these three
rules: 1st. The butter should not be too warm when
worked, nor should it be so cold as to make working it
difficult. Dipping the ladle into cold water, if the butter
in the bowl is warm enough to admit of putting the ladle
through the whole mass without difficulty and dividing
it without crumbling, and still hard enough to cut clean
and smooth, not adhering to the ladle at all, then it is in
right condition to work. 2d. It should be worked with
eareful and gentle, yet telling, pressure, and not by mash-
ings and grindings against the sides of the bowl. 38d. The
butter should not be finally worked until it is dry.

The butter should never come in contact with the hand,
or as little as possible, as the hand renders it oily or
greasy, and takes away the firm beauty of well-made
butter. The butter having been put into the tray, the
buttermilk is pressed out in a careful and gentle manner
with a hard-wood clapper or ladle, turned over and over
in the process, deep gashes being cut with the sharp edge
of the ladle all through it, until the milk is all out and
the air-bubbles are broken; then it is spread out, and one
or one and one-eighth. of an ounce of finest and best qual-

ity of salt to the pound sprinkled over it and lightly
3

34 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

worked in. If for immediate use or marketing, a much
less quantity of salt is better. The rules for salting vary
with the taste of the maker or his customers. Some say
one ounce to three pounds, others one dessertspoonful to
the pound, others a teacupful to six pounds, others one
pint to fifteen pounds; but practice and taste are the usual
guides. It must be remembered, too much of it destroys
or overpowers the fine flavor and delicate aroma of the
best butter. About one pound of salt to twenty pounds
of butter is a fair average amount. It is then again partly
spread out in the tray, and the tray is stood up on its edge
in a cool place over-night, to allow the salt to thoroughly
combine with the butter and any milk that may remain
to drain off. In the morning it is worked over thoroughly
with the paddle in one hand and a clean cloth soaked in
ice-water in the other; the butter is flattened out and
“sopped” with the cloth until every particle of milk or
water is gathered out. The cloth is constantly washed in
ice-water and wrung out during the process. It ought
not to be worked long enough to heat it or break down
the grain of the butter or make it waxy, and two—some
put four—ounces of ground white sugar to ten pounds of
butter are worked in, though many think the sugar is un-
necessary. But sugar is a good preservative, and it tends
to remove any bitterness of taste in the butter.

We give another receipt, where it is to be kept for
months; this composition will be found more valuable
than salt alone: Take of saltpetre one part, of loaf-sugar
one part, of fine rock-salt two parts; beat the mass to a
fine powder, and use one ounce of the composition to a
pound of butter. This will give it a peculiar rich flavor,
but it should not be used before two weeks old. Butter is
often injured by using too much salt in preserving it; but
this composition renders it unnecessary to salt to excess.
For immediate use, salt alone is preferable.

WASHING BUTTER. 35

We have spoken of the importance of using only the
best salt; the following is a good test before using it: Dis-
solve a little in a glass tumbler; if the brine formed is
clear and free from bitter taste, the salt is good; if, on the
contrary, it is of a milky appearance, leaves any sediment
or throws scum to the surface, it should be rejected.

There are times when the butter comes it comes soft
and warm, and is difficult to take out. Then the milk
can be drawn off and the churn half filled with ice-cold
milk or pure ice-water, and churned until the butter
hardens. If the ice disappears before this takes place,
then it must be renewed. If the butter comes rather
warm, put in twice the salt you usually do, work your
butter just enough to mix the salt well through it, and set
it away in a cool place for twenty-four hours, then take it
up and work it over; much of the salt will be dissolved
and work out.

In a dairy the yield of milk from cows longer or shorter
time in profit will yield cream of different qualities; also,
in skimming the cream some of it will be the first or
richest and some of it will be later skimmings. Now, it
it is hardly probable this varied cream will all yield butter
at the same moment, or yield all there is in it; therefore
often when the butter has come and is taken out, a further
churning will yield an amount sufficient to pay for the
extra labor.

We have said the best quality of salt, as some salt will
give an unpleasant flavor to the butter and will not keep
the butter so well. Ashton’s Liverpool Dairy and the
Onondaga Salt Company’s are the best.

WASHING BUTTER.

We have said nothing about washing the butter, as
many do, because we never wash our own, believing that
all the buttermilk that is necessary can be worked out

36 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

without destroying the grain of the butter; also that
washing it takes out the sweetness and flavor from it,
makes it insipid and turns it rancid as soon as would any
of the milk that may remain in it. We believe also that
any water, hot or cold, put into the cream to alter the
temperature when about to churn is injurious. Watered
or washed butter will not keep. We are aware this is
contrary to the practice and opinions of many, who will
assert that buttermilk cannot be got out except by wash-
ing, and their butter will not keep without. We can only
say this is not our experience, nor of the best butter-
makers of Chester county.

If your spring or well is hard water, save enough ice to
melt as wanted from rivers or streams, though the water
may be hard, as when melted it will be soft, as the lime of
hard water never congeals with the ice. Save also rain-
water, and then with ice you will have it sufficiently cool
to wash your butter, if that is your practice. The best way
to wash it is when the butter is gathered in the churn—
that is, when it separates from the buttermilk and forms
lumps—the buttermilk should all be drawn off and cold
water added; then the whole must be agitated or churned,
and this water then be drawn off, and so on until the water
ceases to look white. This serves to harden the butter and
to work out the milk. Itis claimed by many that water
and butter will not commingle; but if they will not unify,
the butter will hold the water to a small amount; but this,
when the salt is worked, will be brine, and should not
taint the butter.

The utmost moisture that should be found in thor-
oughly worked butter is a very slight dew, and it should
be of such a firm consistency as to slice down, hardly
dimming the surface of a knife-blade.

MARKETING BUTTER. 37

MARKETING BUTTER.

Marketing butter by many is thought to be the easiest
part of the whole process, or the least important, judging
by the manner in which it is done. But marketing it in
the proper manner, or to make it the quickest selling, is
half the battle. It should be put into the most inviting
form to gain the best price. If the maker is near a market,
and is about to retail it or sell it to those who are to retail
it, it should be put into half-pound or pound lumps, and
printed or stamped with some emblematic device, such as
a sheaf of wheat, a cow, a beehive, or the maker’s initials.
After the final working, the scales are placed handy, and
with the clapper a lump is cut off, placed upon the scales,
and either added to or taken from, always being sure to
give rather over than under a pound. It is then taken
from the scale by one clapper in the right hand, and with
the other clapper in the left, it is worked over into a ball
by a few expert touches; and while held on the left-hand
clapper, the right-hand one having been exchanged for
the stamp-mould, the mould is dipped in cold water to
prevent its sticking to the lump, and then pressed firmly
upon it, then withdrawn, leaving a beautiful raised im-
pression of the stamp upon it, and adding to its attrac-
tions. The fashion is now becomi:.g prevalent of making
the lumps square, which is more convenient for use and
for packing in the market tray. Itis also more convenient
for the butter-maker, as it is done by a machine which
squares and prints it at one operation, and also marks it,
so that the consumer cuts it in four parts of about the
right size for table, each piece being nicely stamped.

When it is all stamped, it is set aside in a cold place to
thoroughly harden; in a tray in the spring-house water is
best. When about to market it, each pound or roll is
wrapped ina linen cloth taken out of ice-water or cold

38 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

spring-water, and laid upon the shelf of the tray or tub.
Some market men have a square box made with a sliding
lid and several shelves. On these shelves the pounds of
butter are placed, the lid is dropped down in its grooves,
as the box stands upright on one end, with a handle to
carry it by on the other. This is very nice for winter use,
when the butter will keep hard until sold; but for sum-
mer use there is provided a large tub made of cedar, with
an inner tin vessel, with a well in each end for broken ice,
and shelves on each side of them, one above the other, on
which the butter is placed, and is removed as it is sold.
The shelves are made of thin wood, and rest upon tin pro-
jections on the sides about three inches apart. The wooden
tub is cooled in ice- or spring-water while the tin vessel is
being filled with the ice and butter. The tin is then set
into the wooden vessel, the lid closed, and the whole en-
veloped in a padded carpet covering made to fit, and again
enclosed in an oil-cloth covering. It is thus effectually
shielded from hot air and dust, and is opened out to the
customer firm, cool and golden, and brings readily its
seventy-five cents to one dollar and twenty-five cents per
pound, thus well paying for the extra care. Many put up
their butter in rolls of five or ten or more pounds, and sell
it so, Sometimes wrapped in muslin, sometimes not; but
either way it never looks so nice and attractive as the
nicely-stamped pound lumps, and of course does not bring
so good a price.

In general terms, it may safely be said that the less pos-
sibility there is of interfering with the condition of the but-
ter from the time it leaves the dairy till it reaches the
larder, the better for both producer and consumer. To
alter the condition of butter by redressing or repacking is
commercially culpable, whilst the intreduction of any other
substance, however innocuous, is fraudulent adulteration.
To prevent both effectively is to pack the butter at the

PACKING AND SHIPPING. 39

dairy in the several quantities to suit the requirements of
larger or smaller households or dealers. These packages
ought only to be opened for examination as to quality;
the butter would in such a way be fully protected from
injury, and as it left the dairy so it reaches the larder.

PACKING AND SHIPPING.

Packing of the butter for shipping should be done not
later than the third day. Be careful before packing there
is no milky water runs from it, for as sure as it is packed
with the least drop in the butter you will hear from it
next March or April. Pack it down solid in stone jars if
for your own winter use, or in firkins if for shipping.
Sprinkle a little salt on the surface, and covering it with a
thick, fine cloth, put on the lid and place the jar in a dry,
cool place. Itis better to fill the vessel with one churn-
ing; but if not able to do so, pack in each chuining solid,
and exclude the air until it is full by pouring over ita
strong brine, to be poured off when ready to be filled. If
it is to be kept a long while or sent to sea, pour a little
melted butter over the top of the jar before you put on the
cloth. Butter put down this way in September or Octo-
ber, when the weather is cool and the quality of food is
best, will keep till next June as good as newly-churned
butter. ;

When exposed for sale, it is often found that the lower
portion of the contents of the tub is the poorest, and the
discovery of this fact causes not only a diminution of price
on the whole package, but also suspicion of intended de-
ception. Yet no deception has been intended. The dif-
ference in quality has arisen from improper management
of the lower layers, the upper layer having been kept in
good condition by carefully covering it with salt when
placed in the tub. When forwarded to market in warm
weather, this imperfectly-packed butter is placed in the

40 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

low temperature of an ice-car, and on its arrival at the city
dépét it is often unloaded and carted under a broiling sun.

It is very important that it should-be kept from the air,
as an exposure to the atmosphere will spoil the best butter
that ever was made in a very short time. For this reason
wooden tubs are not desirable to pack in, unless for a short
time, as they are not sufficient protection against the action
of the atmosphere, and often of themselves destroy the
flavor of that portion of butter which comes in contact
with them to the depth of an inch or more. When they
are used, they should be of hemlock or of oak, filled with
boiling water, to remain till cool, then soaked in brine for
two or three days, and after the brine is poured out the
sides and bottom must be rubbed with fine salt.

Makers of large quantities of butter, who store it and
ship it when the market price is highest, after preparing
the firkins as before described, pack the firkin full of but-
ter, spread a cloth over the top, do not let the cloth ex-
pand over the sides, put in a layer of coarse Turk’s
Island salt, washed clean, upon the cloth, and put on tem-
porary tops of round flat stones, as they keep the tempera-
ture cooler and more even than any other cover. The
firkins are then stored in a cool place, better on open
joists where the air can pass underneath them. When
they are shipped for market, the cloth, with the salt, is
lifted off, the firkin is turned down to let the brine drain
off, the cloth,wrung out in brine, is replaced, and they
are headed for market, where they arrive in sweet nice
order.

Prof. Nyce’s fruit-houses will keep butter any time pure
and fresh, and large dealers will find it profitable to erect
one for the purpose where all the requisites are cheap and
plenty.

For domestic use it is a good plan to pack it in stone
crocks holding two or three gallons, in layers of such thick-

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PACKING AND SHIPPING. 41

ness as will be convenient for use, sprinkling a little salt
between each layer, or laying a cloth between and coy-
ered with salt, to be lifted out for every new layer added;
and when using it, take out a layer and cover up the rest
from contact with the air. Never work it after it has been
packed, for it is injured by so doing, but use it just as you
take it out. Continue until the erock is nearly full; then
cover closely with a fine muslin cloth, on which place a
layer of salt half an inch thick; then fill with strong brine
and cover with a stone cover. The secret is, Keep it cold
and exclude the air.

If a family is small, and has bought say forty pounds,
intending to make it last ten weeks, a profitable way, after
a third or half is used, is to take all out, warm it a little,
work over, but not overwork, adding two ounces of fine white
sugar, a little salt and a little nitre to each five pounds;
make into half-pound balls, stamp them, cover with linen
cloths, and keep where no dust will fall on them, and in a
cold place.

In families, or where the dairy is small, a good plan te
have butter cool and firm without ice is by the process
of evaporation, as practiced in India and other warm
countries. A cheap plan is to get a very large sized
porous earthen flower-pot with an extra large saucer,
Half fill the saucer with water, set in it a trivet or light
stand: such as is used for holding hot irons will do; upon
this set your butter; over the whole invert the flower-pot,
letting the top rim of it rest in and be covered by the
water; then close the hole in the bottom of the flower-pot
with a cork; then dash water over the flower-pot, and re-
peat the process several times a day, or whenever it looks
dry. If set in a cool place, or where the wind can blow
on it, it will rapidly evaporate the water from the pot,
and the butter will be as firm and cool as if from an ice-
house.

42 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

Another plan is recommended for preserving butter
nearly fresh: After the butter is worked it is placed be-
tween linen cloths and heavily pressed to remove the
water and buttermilk that may be left. Itis then wrapped
in clean white paper, which has been coated on both sides
with a preparation of white of egg and fifteen grains of salt
to each egg, the paper then dried, and heated before the
fire, or with a hot iron just before it is applied to the rolls
of butter. The paper excludes the air, so that the butter
will keep fresh for a long time in a cool place and without
any more salt than usual.

Butter-tubs may be used again and again, just as well as
pork barrels, provided the butter they contained has kept
sweet and the tub not saturated with its rancidity. Even
then it may be cleaned by washing it with moderately
strong hot lye, and afterward soaking with clean cold
water thoroughly. This cleansing should be done imme-
diately after the tub has been emptied, as indeed it should
in the case of pork-barrels, cider-barrels, and all other
vessels in domestic use.

BUTTER FROM WHEY.

Excellent butter, fit for the table, is said to have been
made from whey, and sold in the New York market, bringing
the best price. The following are two receipts for making
it, but we doubt whether it will pay well, and if so only
at the factories, if properly managed.

I. Toe Heatine Process.—-After separating the whey
from the curd, place it in a tin vat and add a liquid acid,
the vat with copper bottom and tin sides, about twelve
feet long, three feet wide and twenty inches deep, or about

nese proportions ; set over a brick arch; one gallon to the
whey of fifty gallons of milk, if the whey is sweet, but less
quantity if changed. Then bring it to a heat of 210°.
When the cream rises and is skimmed off and placed in a

COMPARATIVE PROFITS OF BU TTER-MAKING. 43

cool place, let it stand till next day. Then churn at a
temperature of 56° to 68°, depending on the weather ; work
and salt it as usual. It will produce about one pound of
butter from the whey of one hundred and fifty pounds of
milk. The acid is made by taking any quantity of whey
at boiling-heat after the cream is extracted, adding one
gallon of strictly sour whey to ten gallons of this boiling
whey, when all the caseine remaining in the whey is col-
lected together in one mass, and is skimmed off. After
the whey is allowed to stand from twenty-four to forty-
eight hours, it is ready for use as acid. This process is re-
peated as often as necessity requires.

IJ. THE Coorrne Process.—Take a vessel made of zinc,
or at least with a zine bottom, about fifteen inches high,
three feet wide and as long as desired; set the vessel in
cold water and put in the whey, with a handful of salt to
every ten gallons of whey. During the first two hours stir
it up thoroughly from the bottom every fifteen minutes ;
afterward let it stand quiet for about twenty hours, and
then skim it; then churn the cream, keeping it at about
58°. If above 60°, cool it; if below 56°, warm it. Churn
it until the butter becomes granulated about the size of
kernels of buckwheat. Let it stand about five minutes,
then let the buttermilk run off; then throw on cold water.
If not hard enough, let it stand until it becomes so before
it is stirred much. Then rinse with cold water until it
runs off clear; then churn together or “gather” it; press
the water out, salt it, one pound to eighteen or twenty,
and let it stand till next day; then work it until it becomes
perfectly even in color. Get it ready for market.

COMPARATIVE PROFITS OF BUTTER-MAKING.

Of the four ways of realizing from milk—butter, cheese,
condensed milk and milk for fami’y use—butter, if prop-
erly iaade, is the most profitable. In the form of con-

44 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

densed milk, at prices hitherto obtained, a quart of milk
reduced by evaporation to one-fourth its bulk yields about
half a pound in weight and realizes fifteen cents, at the
rate of three dollars and fifty cents per dozen for pound
cans ; from which deduct one-third for cans and manufac-
turing, leaving ten cents per quart for the milk. At fifteen
cents for cheese, requiring four and a half quarts for a
pound, and forty-five cents for butter, requiring eleven
quarts, the product would realize four cents per quart for
cheese and four and a half cents for butter, less cost of
making; and if butter and skim-cheese are made, it will
show five cents per quart. Where the milk is sold and
the butter is sold, both being near good markets and both
of good quality, butter at fifty cents pays a better profit,
equal to ten per cent. The superior manner in which
cheese has been made of late years has more than trebled
the foreign and home demand for it, and consequently, as
the increase of the manufacture of butter has not increased
with the population, there is a scarcity of butter, and the
prices have risen proportionately.

BUTTER FACTORIES.

Creameries, or factories where butter or butter and
cheese are made, are now rapidly increasing, and farmers
and consumers are to be congratulated upon the fact;
for where the creameries are properly managed—and they
will not pay if they are not—the butter will be of superior
character to the same quantity made by many hands.

The most profitable mode of conducting a creamery in
a neighborhood where there are a number of dairy farms
is for routes to be laid out and the wagons of the factory
to call at morning and evening and collect all the milk on
the route. The routes should not be longer than can be
collected in one trip or the wagon can take. The milk
is all put into vats and allowed to stand over-night, at a

BUTTER FACTORIES. 45

temperature of 60°, and is then skimmed and made into
butter, while the new milk of the morning is added to the
skim-milk and the whole made into cheese. Skim-milk
cheese has not heretofore ranked as very good, but greater
care and knowledge in making it has elevated the market-
price of it. The net returns to the farmers contributing
milk to the creameries has thus far yielded them from
three and a half to fonr and a half cents.

The details of butter-making in the creameries must be,
and is, so nearly what we have already described in the
previous pages that it is not worth while to devote more
space to it, everything being conducted similarly, but only
on a larger scale. The advantages to the farmer to have
a creamery in his neighborhood are so great that we can
only urge him to look into the matter. The creamery will
save himself and family a large amount of labor, and
bring him larger and more reliable returns, as the cream-
eries that make good butter will soon make a name and
price for their manufactures and always command a ready
sale at the best market-prices. The merchants and dealers
in large cities have avenues of sale which the small maker
cannot reach, and would much prefer to have the highest
price butter to deal in, and in the largest quantities.

Farmers can unite and establish a creamery in their
vicinity on the joint-stock plan, with a superintendent to
manage it, and dividing the profits and liabilities among
themselves; or it can be established by an enterprising
man among them who will either make the butter for so
much per pound, or who will purchase the milk direct on
his own account.

Before entering into it, it will be well to examine some
that are already established and have a good reputation
and ascertain particulars; such as, in the East, the Frank-
lin Creamery, at Franklin, Delaware county, New York,
four miles from the line of the Albany and Susquehanna

46 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

Railroad; and in the West, the Elgin Butter Factory, at
Elgin, Dlinois.
CONCLUSION.

We have shown in the preceding essay how to make a
prime quality of butter; and we now state that while a
fair article of tub-butter sells for from thirty to fifty cents,
and a vast quantity is sold, perhaps, for not more than
half of even these prices, there is at the same time an
increasing, though yet small comparatively, quantity that
is selling from seventy-five cents to one dollar per pound.
The relative prices are so widely apart because there is
too much of the one and too little of the other, and be-
cause there is too little care taken in making the one and
great care taken in producing the other, the one yielding
no profit in the production and the other affording a
handsome one. It is practicable for producers of butter
in the United States to increase its average price ten cents
per pound, and this enhancement would put in their
purses one hundred millions of dollars. This is too large
a sum to pay for ignorance, carelessness and lack of clean-
liness. Reader, will you resolve to do your share in
gaining your part of this great sum?

We append some of the most recent statistics relating to
butter :

Mitcu-Cows AND BuTreR Propvucts IN THE UNITED STATES FOR
THREE DECADES.

Cows. BuTTeER.

Number. Pounds.
8,935,332 514,092,683}
8,585,735 459,681,372
6,385,094 313,345,306

These figures are from the census reports, and are, of
course, only approximately true, the fact being that they
should be about twice as large in amount, from the diffi-

CONCLUSION. 47

culty of collecting over so large a surface the exact figures.
The increase of cows from 1850 to 1860 was thirty-four per
cent., and from 1860 to 1870 only four per cent. The
production of butter increased during the first decade
nearly forty-six per cent., increase of population thirty-
five and a half per cent.; and less than twelve per cent.,
during the second, increase of population twenty-two and
a half per cent. For the twenty years from 1850 to 1876
the increase of the butter product was sixty-four per cent.,
increase of population sixty-six per cent. The exports of
butter during four years were—

YEARS. POUNDS. VALUE.
1870 2,079,751 $570,482
1871 8,568,012 1,606,239
1872 5,044,227 1,041,032
1873 4,074,657 947,986

The census exhibits for 1850, 1860 and 1870, collated
with statistics of exports and imports, show for each indi-
vidual an average yearly consumption of butter ranging
from thirteen and a half to fourteen and a half pounds, the
latter figures being for the middle period, or that of 1860.

Prof. Willard estimates the average annual yield of milk
per cow at eighteen hundred quarts, of an average value
of two and a third cents per quart. At this rate our cows
in 1878 produced 19,269,540,000 quarts, worth $449,622,600,
which estimate is very nearly carried out by one of Mr.
Willard’s of the quantity and value of our dairy products
for 1873. Thus—

Milk consumed as food, at 24 cts. per quart........ $213,000,000

ROGIVGENSCUNTIM eee catientivccesoncss'aescveesaiessveemect sear . 1,000,000
Butter, 700,000,000 Ibs., at 25 cts. per Ib........0... 175,000,000
Cheese, 240,000,000 Ibs., at 12 cts. per Ib............ 28,800,000
Whey, sour milk, ete., converted into pork......... 10,000,000

AM OUall negate ssdascdaccsdseastertsoscncatcouccarcases $427,800,000

48 BUTTER AND BUTTER-MAKING.

The total amount approximated $430,000,000; in 1874
it will vastly exceed these figures. Nearly the whole bulk
of this enormous production is consumed at home. Only
low grades of butter are sent abroad. Our total export of
butter, cheese and condensed milk in 1878 amounted to
$12,939,320.

The following averages of milk required for one pound
of butter are the results of careful tests made during one
week in each month from March, 1871, to January, 1872,
inclusive. Herd of high-grade short-horns:

March......12.5 quarts. | July........12.2 quarts. | November.11.5 quarts.
April... 1a August.....15. 2 December. 9.8 “
LDS Gas 12. ee September 12. e January...10, “
Furie, ccc 4 October....11.7. “

PRICH, 25 CENTS.

BUTE EAR

AND

“BUTTER ‘MAKING.

WITH THE

BEST METHODS

PRODUCING AND MARKETING IT.

BY
WILLIS P.’ HAZARD,

PRESIDENT OF THE CHADD’S FORD FARMERS’ CLUB, AUTHOR OF “THE
JERSEY, ALDERNEY AND GUERNSEY COW,” ETC.

PHILADELPHIA:
PORTER & COATES,
No. 822 CHESTNUT STREET.

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