woe CABBAGES -AULIFLOWERS: ie Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts and Kale dai How to grow them : How to raise wed: How to keep _ them: : How to cook them: How to feed to stock a practical treatise, giving full details on every point, sbahdin keeping pene marketing the ee: How to originate new varieties ’ ‘JAMES J. H. GREGORY - Original introducer of the Marblehead, Deep Head, eee, All Seasons, and other Cabbages t SQUASHES | HOW TO GROW THEM PRICE, 30 CENTS, BY MAIL This treatise is amply illustrated, and gives full particulars on every point, including keeping and marketing the crop. FERTILIZERS Where the materials come from; How to get them in the cheapest form; How to make our own fertilizers (@- A new and enlarged edition, largely rewritten and brought up to date, with all formulas priced. _&) In this work there will be found many valuable tables, with many suggestions, and much information on the purchase of materials, the combining of them, and the use of the fertilizers made from them. I believe it will give a good return to any of my customers for his outlay. The treatise makes a book of 137 pages. Price, by mail, 50 cents; in cloth covers, 60 cents. CABBAGES »=® CAULIFLOWERS: HOW TO GROW THEM. A PRACTICAL TREATISE, GIVING FULL DETAILS ON EVERY POINT; INCLUDING KEEPING AND MARKETING THE CROP. REVISED EDITION. BY JAMES J. H. GREGORY, AUTHOR OF WORKS ON SQUASH RAISING, ONION RAISING, ETC.. BTC. ‘ Wrinters S. J. PARKHILL & Co., Boston, U. 8S. A. ” 1908 LIBRARY of CONGRESS| Two Copies Received NOV 30 1908 v.23, 196% CLASS XX. No, play era) COP Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1889, by JAMES J. H. GREGORY, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. Copyright, 1908, by JAMES J. H. GREGORY. CONTENTS, \ PAGE OBJECT OF THIS TREATISH............ Nore cttsis COD a 1 ihe ORTGING OFM CABBAGE eereusteate rian irene cokeiehes a) craia ae aerere cence l VVSELACTIET AT. COVANS UA CEG art 8 ccpaved aoe rat Seek BL Seer CM yn te 2 SELECTING DHE TS OUG 1. nie erie aie SR A aD Seco 4 PRB EA RON GUTEE MOOI. ei eel terry e corsa es omiirde hae 5 TW E Tse | VIGAUNG TTR Be Auten eye eae erctrs lie sarin eg ae eet wr Pay See ne Re 6 TOWaTOn APP b Ye MiHTE OVEANU RE. .y-1 ae Patueice sro gecesi ee Ae ‘ MakinG THE HILLS AND PLANTING THE SEED..... pS ore 11 CARE OF THE YOUNG PULANTS........ Pe olen eer ee ets 16 PROTECTING THE PLANTS FROM THEIR ENEMIES........... 18 ure G REING a VWViOR MW preysaine 7 A ance oe eeNe! cy. a amen ee nee eee 22, Cius or Stump Foor anp MaGoor....... Nickie as SAA SE 24 GARELOR THe GROWING = CROP! 2455-5 es oe eee ne 29 MAREE TING: MME © ROR to athe Men me cei.g. Meteo ea 30 KEEPING CABBAGES THROUGH THE WINTER............... 32 Havinc CARBAGE MAKE HEADS IN WINTER........ Bese i 39) WEA RIM MIE SHOW) (GATS AG Eas clea c.cetiers citer Beek Res eae ae 41-62 SVAGWOME, GHATS SICH DEH Ste lee et Pere os act tae irc cuer ss Rue ene Seka 62-65 OPAERLVARTIEDINSEON CABGAGH), ccc seve dsc oe 65-69 CGB AGHEGREENG, ceeras salts. seashore, oe ents Se ee ee 69 CABTRAGE EE ORGS LOCK. stirs Chir rece tani teest casters at ay ees 71 RV AUISIINGy GUA03 1B AGES BIE Das op arn e-cesle tien reraban aucirena aN aa 15 ORIGINATING NEw VARIETIES OF CABBAGE............... ee CooKInGy CABBAGH, SOUR-MROUT, BITC ust 2.0 1. eases ee: 8D CABBAGESRUNDER AG LASSaase ete nia ae ee 81 Coup FRAME AND Hor-BEp............. AES iy Ne Ba PGR 33 JAULIFLOWER, Brocconr, Brussrus-Sprours, Kane ANnpb Sia KOA eh ne ee teas fe on ee ee eve 85 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. OBJECT OF THIS TREATISE. As a general, yet very thorough, response to in- quiries from many of my customers about cabbage raising, I have aimed in this treatise to tell them all about the subject. The different inquiries made from time to time have given me a pretty clear idea of the many heads under which information is wanted; and it has been my aim to give this with the same thoroughness of detail as in my little work on Squashes. I have endeavored to talk in a very practical way, drawing from a large observation and experience, and receiving, in describing varieties, some valuable information from McIntosh’s work, * The Book of the Garden.” THE ORIGIN OF CABBAGE. Botanists tell us that all of the Cabbage family, which includes not only every variety of cabbage, Red, White, and Savoy, but all the cauliflower, broc- coli, kale, and brussels sprouts, had their origin in the wild cabbage of Europe (Brassica oleracea), a plant with green, wavy leaves, much resembling charlock, found growing wild at Dover in England, and other parts of Europe. This plant, says McIntosh, is mostly confined to the sea-shore, and grows only on chalky or calcareous soils. yD CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. Thus through the wisdom of the Great Father of us all, who occasionally in his great garden allows vegetables to sport into a higher form of life, and grants to some of these sports sufficient strength of individuality to enable them to perpetuate them- selves, and, at times, to blend their individuality with that of other sports, we have the heading cabbage in its numerous varieties, the creamy cauliflower, the feathery kale, the curled savoy. On my own erounds from a strain of seed that had been grown isolated for years, there recently came a plant that in its structure closely resembled Brussels Sprouts, growing about two feet in height, with a small head under each leaf. The cultivated cabbage was first introduced into England by the Romans, and from there nearly all the kinds cultivated in this country were originally brought. ‘Those which we consider as peculiarly American varieties, have only been made so by years of careful improvement on the original imported sorts. The characteristics of these varieties will be given farther on. WHAT A CABBAGE IS. If we cut vertically through the middle of the head, we shall find it made up of successive layers of leaves, which grow smaller and smaller, almost ad infinitum. Now, if we take a fruit bud from an apple-tree and make a similar section of it, we shall find the same structure. If we observe the development of the two, as spring advances, we shall find another simi- larity (the looser the head the closer will be the re- semblance ),— the outer leaves of each will unwrap and unfold, and a flower stem will push out from each. Here we see that a cabbage is a bud, a seed CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 3 bud (as all fruit buds may be termed, the production of seed being the primary object in nature, the fruit enclosing it playing but a secondary part), the office of the leaves being to cover, protect, and afterwards nourish the young seed shoot. The outer leaves which surround the head appear to have the same office as the leaves which surround the growing fruit bud, and that office closes with the first year, as does that of the leaves surrounding fruit buds, when each die and drop off. In my-locality the public must have perceived more or less clearly the analogy between the heads of cabbage and the buds of trees, for when they speak of small heads they frequently call them “buds.” That the close wrapped leaves which make the cabbage head and surround the seed germ, situated just in the middle of the head at the termination of the stump, are necessary for its protection and nutri- tion when young, is proved, I think, by the fact that those cabbages, the heads of which are much decayed, when set out for seed, no matter how sound the seed germ may be at the end of the stump, never make so large or healthy a seed shoot as those do the heads of which are sound; as a rule, after pushing a feeble growth, they die. For this reason I believe that the office of the head is similar to and as necessary as that of the leaves which unwrap from around the blossom buds of our fruit trees. It is true that the parallel cannot be fully maintained, as the leaves which make up the cabbage head do not to an equal degree unfold (par- ticularly is this true of hard heads) ; yet they exhibit a vitality of their own, which is seen in the deeper ereen color the outer leaves soon attain, and the change from tenderness to toughness in their struc- 4 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. ture: I think, therefore, that the degree of failure in the parallel may be measured by the difference between a higher and a lower form of organic life. Some advocate the economy of cutting off a large portion of the heads when cabbages are set out for seed to use as food for stock. There is certainly a ereat temptation, standing amid acres of large, solid, heads in the early spring months, when green food of all kinds is scarce, to cut and use such an immense amount of rich food, which, to the inexperienced eye, appears to be utterly wasted if left to decay, dry, and fall to the ground; but, for the reason given above, I have never done so. It is possible that large heads may bear trimming to a degree without injury to the seed crop; yet I should consider this an experiment, and one to be tried with a good deal of caution. SELECTING THE SOIL. In some of the best cabbage-growing sections of the country, until within a comparatively few years it was the very general belief that cabbage would not do well on upland. Accordingly the cabbage patch would be found on the lowest tillage land of the farm. No doubt, the lowest soil being the richer from a eradual accumulation of the wash from the upland, when manure was but sparingly used, cabbage would thrive better there than elsewhere, —and not, as was generally held, because that vegetable needed more moisture than any other crop. Cabbage can be raised with success on any good corn land, provided such land is well manured; and there is no more loss in seasons of drouth on such land than there is in seasons of excessive moisture on the lower tillage land of the farm. J wish I could preach a very loud CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 5 sermon to all my farmer friends on the great value of liberal manuring to carry crops successfully through the effects of a severe drouth. Crops on soil precisely alike, with but a wall to separate them, will, in a very dry season, present a striking difference, —the one being in fine vigor, and the other “suffering from drouth,” as the owner will tell you; but, in reality, from want of food. The smaller varieties of cabbage will thrive well on either light or strong soil, but the largest drum- heads do best on strong soil. For the Brassica family, including cabbages, cauliflowers, turnips, ete., there is no soil so suitable as freshly turned sod, provided the surface is well fined by the harrow; it is well to have as stout a crop of clover or grass, growing on this sod, when turned under, as possible, and I incline to the belief that it would be a judicious investment to start a thick growth of these by the application of guano to the surface sufficiently long before turning the sod to get an extra growth of the clover or grass. If the soil be very sandy in char- acter, I would advise that the variety planted be the Winnigstadt, which, in my experience, is unexcelled for making a hard head under almost any conditions, however unpropitious. Should the soil be naturally very wet it should be underdrained, or stump foot will be very likely to appear, which is death to all SUCCESS. PREPARING THE SOIL. Should the soil be a heavy clay, a deep fall plough- ing is best, that the frosts of winter may disintegrate it; and should the plan be to raise an early crop, this end will be promoted by fall ploughing, on any soil, as the land will thereby be made drier in early 6 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. spring. In New England the soil for cabbages should be ploughed as deep as the subsoil, and the larger drumheads should be planted only on the deepest soil. If the season should prove a favorable one, a good crop of cabbage may be grown on sod broken up immediately after a crop of hay has been taken from it, provided plenty of fine manure is harrowed in. One great risk here is from the dry weather that usually prevails at that season, prevent- ing the prompt germination of the seed, or rooting of the plants. It is prudent in such a case to have a good stock of plants growing on moister land, that such as die may be promptly replaced. It is wise to plant the seed for these a week earlier than the main crop, for when transplanted to fill the vacant places it will take about a week for them to get well rooted. The manure may be spread on the surface of either sod or stubble land and ploughed under, or be spread on the surface after ploughing and thoroughly worked into the soil by the wheel harrow. On ploughed sod I have found nothing so satisfactory as the class of wheel harrows, which not oly cut the manure up fine and work it well under, but by the same operation cut and pulverize the turf until it may be left not over an inch in thickness. To do the work thus thoroughly requires a pair of stout - horses. All large stones and large pieces of turf that are torn up and brought to the surface should be carted off before making the hills. THE MANURE. Any manure but hog manure for cabbage, — barn manure, rotten kelp, night-soil, guano, fertilizers, wood CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 7 ashes, fish, glue waste, hen manure, slaughter-house manure. I have used all of these, and found them all good when rightly applied. If pure hog manure is used it is apt to produce that corpulent enlarge- ment of the roots known in different localities as “stump foot,” ‘underground head,” “finger and thumb”; but I have found barn manure on which hogs have run, as many as two hogs to each animal, excellent. The cabbage is the rankest of feeders, and to perfect the larger sort a most liberal allowance of the richest composts is required. To grow the smaller varieties, either barn-yard manure, guano, fertilizers, or wood ashes, if the soil be in good condition, will answer; though the richer and more abundant the manure the larger are the cabbages, and the earlier the crop will mature. To perfect the large varieties of Drumhead,— by which I mean to make them grow to the greatest size possible,— I want a strong compost of barn-yard manure, with night-soil and muck or fish-waste, and, if possible, rotten kelp. A compost into which night-soil enters as a component is best made by first covering a plot of ground, of easy access, with soil or muck that has been exposed to a winter’s frost, to the depth of about eighteen inches, raising around this a! rim about three feet in height, and thick- ness. Into this the night-soil is poured from carts built for the purpose, until the receptacle is about two thirds full. Barn manure is now added, being dropped around and covering the outer rim, and, if the supply is sufficient, on the top of the heap also, on which it can be carted after cold weather sets in. Early in spring, the entire mass should be pitched over, thoroughly broken up with the bar and 8 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. pick where frozen, and the frozen masses thrown on the surface. In pitching over the mass, work the rim in towards the middle of the heap. After the frozen lumps have thawed, give the heap another pitching over, aiming to mix all the materials thoroughly together, and make the entire mass as fine as possible. A covering of sand, thrown over the heap, before the last pitching, will help fine it. To produce a good crop ot cabbages, with a com- post of this quality, twelve cords will be required to the acre. If the land is in good heart, by previous high cultivation, or the soil is naturally very strong, eight cords will give a fair crop of the small varie- ties; while, with the same conditions, twelve cords to the acre will be required to perfect the largest variety grown, the Marblehead Mammoth Drumhead. HOW TO APPLY THE MANURE. The manure is sometimes applied wholly in the hill, at other times partly broadcast and partly in the hill. If the farmer desires to make the utmost use of his manure for that season it will be best to put most of it into the hill, particularly if his supply runs rather short; but if he desires to leave his land in good condition for next year’s crop he had better use part of it broadcast. My own practice is to use all my rich compost broadcast, and depend on fertilizers, or hen manure in the hill. Let all guano, if at all lumpy, like the Peruvian, be sifted, and let all the hard lumps be reduced by pounding, until the largest pieces shall not be larger than half a pea CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 9 before itis brought upon the ground. My land being ready, the compost worked under and the rows marked out, I select three trusty hands who can be relied upon to follow faithfully my directions in applying so dangerous manures as are fertilizers in careless or ignorant hands; one takes a bucket of it, and, if for large cabbage, drops as much as he can readily close in his shut hand, where each hill is to be; if for small sorts, then about half that quantity, spreading it over a circle about a foot in diameter; the second man follows with a pronged hoe, or, better yet, a six-tined fork, with which he works the guano well into the soil, first turning it three or four inches under the surface, and then stirring the soil very thoroughly with the hoe or fork. Unless the fertil- izer is faithfully mixed up with the soil the seed will not vegetate. Give the second man about an hour the start, and then let the third man follow with the seed. Of hen manure a heaping handful to each hill, after it has been finely broken up, and, if moist, mixing it slightly with dry earth. When salt is used it should be used in connection with manures, at the rate of from ten to fifteen bushels to the acre, applied broadcast over the ground, or thoroughly mixed with the manure before that is appled; if dissolved in the manure, better yet. Salt itself is not a manure. Its principal office is to change other materials into plant food. Fish and glue waste are exceedingly powerful manures, very rich in ammonia, and, if used the first season, they should be in compost. It is best to handle liver waste pre- cisely like night-soil. This liver waste is the refuse re- maining after the oil has been extracted from the livers of fish. It is found only in seaport towns. ‘ Porgy 10 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. b cheese,” or “chum,” the refuse, after pressing out the oil from menhaden and halibut heads and some- times sold extensively for manure, is best prepared for use by composting it with muck or loam, layer with layer, at the rate of a barrel to every foot and a half, cord measure, of soil. As soon as it shows some heat, turn it, and repeat the process, two or three times, until it is well decomposed, when apply. Another excellent way to use fish waste is to com- post it with barn manure, in the open fields. It will be best to have six inches of soil under the heap, and not layer the fish with the lower half of the manure, for it strikes down. Glue waste is a very coarse, lumpy manure, and requires a great deal of severe manipulation, if it is to be applied the first season. A better way is to compost it with soil, layer with layer, having each layer about a foot in thickness, and so allow it to remain over until the next sea- son, before using. This will decompose most of the straw, and break down the hard, tough lumps. In applying this to the crop, most of it had better be used broadcast, as it is apt, at best, to be rather too coarse and concentrated to be used liberally directly in the hill. Slaughter-house manure should be treated much like glue manure. ~ Mr. Proctor, of Beverly, has raised cabbage suc- cessfully on strong clay soil, by spreading a compost of muck containing fish waste, in which the fish is well decomposed, at the rate of two tons of the fish to an acre of land, after plowing, and then, having made his furrows at the right distance apart, harrow- ing the land thoroughly crossways with the furrows. The result was, besides mixing the manure thor- CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 11 oughly with the soil, to land an extra proportion of it in the furrows, which was equivalent to manuring in the drill. Cabbage can be raised on fertilizers alone, if these are rich in nitrogen. I have raised some crops in this way, but have been led to plough in from four to six cords of good manure to the acre, and then use from five hundred to a thousand pounds of some good fertilizer in the hill. The rea- son I prefer to use a portion of the cabbage food in the form of manure, is, that I have noticed that when the attempt is made to raise the larger drumhead varieties on fertilizers only, the cabbages, just as the heads are well formed, are apt to come nearly to a standstill. I explain this on the supposition that they exhaust most of the fertilizer, or some one of the in- gredients that enter into it, during the earlier stage of growth; perhaps from the fact that the food is in so easily digestible condition, they use an over share of it, and the fact that those fed on fertilizers only, tend to grow longer stumped than usual, appears to give weight to this opinion. Though any good fer- tilizer is good for cabbage, yet I prefer those com- pounded on the basis of an analysis of the composition of the plants; they should contain the three ingre- dients, nitrogen, potash, and phosphoric acid, in the proportion of six, seven, five, taking them in the order in which I have written them. MAKING THE HILLS AND PLANTING THE SEED. The idea is quite prevalent that cabbages will not head up well except the plants are started in beds, and then transplanted into the hills where they are to mature. This is an error, so far as it applies to 12 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. the Northern States, —the largest and most experi- enced cultivators of cabbage in New England usually dropping the seed directly where the plant is to stand, unless they are first started under glass, or the piece of land to be planted cannot be prepared in season to enable the farmer to put his seed directly in the hill and yet give the cabbage time sufficient to mature. Where the climate is unpropitious, or the quantity of manure applied is insufficient, it is possible that trans- planting may promote heading. The advantages of planting directly in the hill, are a saving of time, avoiding the risks incidental to transplanting, and having all the piece start alike; for, when trans- planted, many die and have to be replaced, while some hesitate much longer than others before start- ing, thus making a want of uniformity in the matur- ing of the crop. There is, also, this advantage, there being several plants in each hill, the cut-worm has to depredate pretty severely before he really injures the piece; again, should the seed not vegetate in any of the hills, every farmer will appreciate the advantage of having healthy plants growing so near at hand that they can be transferred to the vacant spaces with their roots so undisturbed that their growth is hardly checked. In addition to the labor of transplanting saved by this plan, the great check that plants always receive when so treated is prevented, and also the extra risks that occur should a season of drouth fol- low. It is the belief of some farmers, that plants growing where the seed was planted are less liable to be destroyed by the cut-worm than those that have been transplanted. When planning to raise late cab- bage on upland, I sow a portion of the seed on a moist spot, or, in case a portion of the land is moist, I plant CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. iS the hills on such land with an extra quantity of seed. that I may have enough plants for the whole piece, should the weather prove to be too dry for the seed to vegetate on the dryer portions of it. It is wise to sow these extra plants about a week earlier, for they will be put back about a week by transplanting them. Some of our best farmers drill their seed in with a sowing machine, such as is used for onions, carrots, and other vegetable crops. This is a very expeditious way, and has the advantage of leaving the plants in rows instead of bunches, as in the hill system, and thus enables the hoe to do most of the work of thinning. It has also this advantage: each plant being by itself can be left much longer before thinning, and yet not erow long in the stump, thus making it available for transplanting, or for sale in the market, for a longer period. The usual way of preparing the hills is to strike out furrows with a small, one-horse plough, as far apart as the rows are to be. As it is very important that the rows should be as straight as practicable, it is a good plan to run back once in each furrow, particu- larly on sod land where the plough will be apt to catch in the turf and jump out of line. A manure team follows, containing the dressing for the hills, which has previously been pitched over and beaten up until all the ingredients are fine and well mixed. This team is so driven, if possible, as to avoid running in the furrows. Two or three hands follow with forks or shovels, pitching the manure into the furrows at the distance apart that has been determined on for the hills. How far apart these are to be will depend on the varieties, from eighteen inches to four feet. 14 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. On land that has been very highly manured for a series of years, cabbage can be planted nearer than on land that has been under the plow but a few years. For the distance apart for different varieties see farther on. The manure is levelled with hoes, a little soil is drawn over it, and a slight stamp with the back of the hoe is given to level this soil, and, at the same time, to mark the hill. The planter follows with seed in a tin box, or any small vessel haying a broad bottom, and taking a small pinch between the thumb and forefinger he gives a slight scratch with the remaining fingers of the same hand, and dropping in about half a dozen seed covers them half an inch deep with a sweep of the hand, and packs the earth by a gentle pat with the open palm to keep the moisture in the ground and thus promote the vegeta- tion of the seed. With care a quarter of a pound of seed will plant an acre, when dropped directly in the hills; but half a pound is the common allowance, as there is usually some waste from spilling, while most laborers plant with a free hand. The soil over the hills being very light and porous, careless hands are apt to drop the seed too deep. Care should be taken not to drop the seed all in one spot, but to scatter them over a surface of two or three inches square, that each plant may have room to develop without crowding its neighbors. If the seed is planted in a line instead of in a mass the plants can be left longer before the final thinning without danger of growing tall and weak. If the seed is to be drilled in, it will be necessary to scatter the manure all along the furrows, then cover with a plough, roughly leveling with a rake. Should the compost applied to the hills be very CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 15 concentrated, it will be apt to produce stump foot 5 it will, therefore, be safest in such cases to hollow out the middle with the corner of the hoe, or draw the hoe through and fill in with earth, that the roots of the young plants may not come in direct contact with the compost as soon as they begin to push. When rich fertilizers are used in the hills it will be well to mark out the rows with a plough, and then, where each hill is to be, fill in the soil level to the surface with a hoe, before applying them. I have, in a previous paragraph, given full instructions how to apply these. Hen manure, if moist, should be broken up very fine, and be mixed with some dry earth to prevent it from again lumping together, and the mixture applied in sufficient quantity to make an equivalent of a heaping handful of pure hen manure to each hill. Any liquid manure is excellent for the cabbage crop; but it should be well diluted, or it will be likely to produce stump foot. Cabbage seed of almost all varieties are nearly round in form, but are not so spherical as turnip seed. I note, however, that seed of the Savoys are nearly oval. In color they are light brown when first gathered, but gradually turn dark brown if not gathered too early. An ounce contains nearly ten thousand seed, but should not be relied upon for many over two thousand good plants, and these are available for about as many hills only when raised in beds and transplanted; when dropped directly in the hills it will take not far from eight ounces to plant an acre. Cabbage seed when well cured and kept in close bags will retain their 16 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. vitality four or five years; old gardeners prefer seed of all the cabbage family two or three years old. When the plan is to raise the young plants in beds to be transplanted, the ground selected for the beds should be of rich soil ; this should be very thoroughly dug, and the surface worked and raked very fine, every stone and lump of earth being removed. Now sprinkle the seed evenly over the bed and gently rake in just under the surface, compacting the soil by pressure with a board or plant in rows four inches apart. As soon as the young plants appear sprinkle them with air-slaked lime. Transplant when three or four inches high, being very careful not to let the plants get tall and weak. For late cabbage, in the latitude of Boston, to have cabbages ready for market about the first of November, the Marblehead Mammoth should be planted the 20th of May, other late drumheads from June 1st to June 12th, provided the plants are not to be transplanted; otherwise a week earlier. In those localities where the growing season is later, the seed should be planted proportionally later. CARE OF THE YOUNG PLANTS. In four or five days, if the weather is propitious, the young plants will begin to break ground, pre- senting at the surface two leaves, which together make nearly a square, like the first leaves of turnips or radishes. As soon as the third leaf is developed, go over the piece, and boldly thin out the plants. Wherever they are very thick, pull a mass of them with the fingers and thumb, being careful to fill up the hole made with fine earth. After the fourth leaf is developed, go over the piece again and thin still more; you need specially to guard against a slender, CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 17 weak growth, which will happen when the plants are too crowded. In thinning, leave the short- stumped plants, and leave them as far apart in the hill as possible, that they may not shade each other, or so interfere in growing as to make long stumps. If there is any market for young plants, thousands can be sold from an acre when the seed are planted in the hill; but in doing this bear in mind that your principal object is to raise cabbages, and to succeed in this the young plants must on no account be allowed to stand so long together in the hills as to crowd each other, making a tall, weak, slender growth,— getting “long-legged,” as the farmers call it. If the manure in any of the hills is too strong, the fact will be known by its effects on the plants, which will be checked in their growth, and be of a darker green color than the healthy plants. Gently pull away the earth from the roots of such with the fingers, and draw around fresh earth; or, what is as well or better, transplant a healthy plant just on the edge of the hill. When the plants are finger high they are of a good size to transplant into such hills as have missed, or to market. When transplanting, select a rainy day, if possible, and do not begin until sufficient rain has fallen to moisten the earth around the roots, which will make it more likely to adhere to them when taken up. If rain sufficient for the purpose has not fallen, then water thoroughly before transplanting. Take up the young plants by run- ning the finger or a trowel under them; put these into a flat basket or box, and in transplanting set them fully to the same depth they originally grew, pressing the earth a little about the roots. If it is necessary to do the transplanting in a dry spell, as usually happens, select the latter part of the afternoon, if practicable, and, making holes with a 18 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. dibble, or any pointed stick an inch and a half in diameter, fill these holes, a score or more at a time, with water; and as soon as the water is about soaked away, beginning with the hole first filled, set out your plants. The evaporation of the moisture below the roots will keep them moist until they get a hold. Cabbage plants have great tenacity of life, and will rally and grow when they appear to be dead; the leaves may all die, and dry up like hay, but if the stump stands erect and the unfolded leaf at the top of the stump is alive, the plant will usually survive. When the plants are quite large, they may be used successfully by cutting or breaking off the larger leaves. Some advocate wilting the plants before transplanting, piling them in the cellar a few days before setting them out, to toughen them and geta new setting of fine roots; others challenge their vigor by making it a rule to do all transplanting under the heat of mid-day. I think there is not much of reason in this latter course. The young plants can be set out almost as fast as a man can walk, by holding the roots close to one side of the hole made by the dibble, and at the same moment pressing earth against them with the other hand. PROTECTING THE PLANTS FROM THEIR ENEMIES. As soon as they have broken through the soil, an enemy awaits them in the small black insect com- monly known as the cabbage or turnip fly, beetle, or flea. This insect, though so small as to appear to the eye as a black dot, is very voracious and surpris- ingly active. He apparently feeds on the juice of the young plant, perforating it with small holes the CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 19 size of a pin point. He is so active when disturbed that his motions cannot be followed by the eye, and his sense of danger is so keen that only by cautiously approaching the plant can he be seen at all. The delay of a single day in protecting the young plants from his ravages will sometimes be the destruction of nearly the entire piece. Wood ashes and air-slaked lime, or plaster, sprinkled upon the plants while the leaves are moist from either rain or dew, afford almost complete protection. The lime, ashes or plaster should be applied as soon as the plant can be seen, for then, when they are in their tenderest condition, the fly is most destructive. I am not certain that the alkaline nature of these affords the protection, or whether a mere covering by common dust might not answer equally well. Should the covering be washed off by rain, apply it anew immediately after the rair has ceased, and so continue to keep the young plazis covered until the third or fourth leaves are developed when they will have become too tough to serve as food for this insect enemy. A new enemy much dreaded by all cabbage raisers will begin to make his appearance about the time the flea disappears, known as the cut-worm. This worm is of a dusky brown color, with a dark colored head, and varies in size up to about two inches in length. He burrows in the ground just below the surface, is slow of motion, and does his mischievous work at night, gnawing off the young plants close at the sur- face of the ground. This enemy is hard to battle with. If the patch be small, these worms can be scratched out of their hiding places by pulling the earth carefully away the following morning for a few inches around the stump of the plant destroyed, when 20 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. the rascals will usually be found half coiled together. Dropping a little wood ashes around the plants close to the stumps is one of the best of remedies; its alkaline properties burning his nose I presume. A tunnel of paper put around the stump but not touching it, and sunk just below the surface, is recommended as effi- eacious; and from the habits of the worm I should think it would prove so. Perpendicular holes four inches deep and an inch in diameter is said to catch and hold them as effectively as do the pit falls of Africa the wild animals. Late planted cabbage will suffer little or none from this pest, as he disappears about the middle of June. Some seasons they are remarkably numerous, making it necessary to replant portions of the cabbage patch several times over. I have heard of as many as twenty being dug at ‘dif ferent times the same season out of one cabbage hill. The farmer who tilled that patch earned his dollars. When the cabbage has a stump the size of a pipe stem it is beyond the destructive ravages of the cut-worm, and should it escape stump foot has usually quite a period of growth free from the attacks of enemies. Should the season prove unpropitious and the plant be checked in its growth, it will be apt to become “lousy,” as the farmers term it, referring to its con- dition when attacked by a small green insect known as aphidee, which preys upon it in myriads ; when this is the case the leaves lose their bright green, turn of a bluish cast, the leaf stocks lose somewhat of their supporting powers, the leaves curl up into irregular shapes, and the lower layer turns black and drops off, while the ground under the plant appears covered with the casts or bodies of the insects as with a white powder. When in this condition the plants are in a very bad way. CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. ral Considering the circumstances under which this insect appears, usually in a very dry season, I hold that it is rather the product than the cause of dis- ease, as with the bark louse on our apple-trees ; as a remedy I advocate sprinkling the plants with air- slaked lime, watering, if possible, and a frequent and thorough stirring of the soil with the cultivator and hoe. The better the opportunities the cabbage have to develop themselves through high manuring, suffi- cient moisture, good drainage, and thorough cultiva- tion, the less liable they are to be “lousy.” As the season advances there will sometimes be found patches eaten out of the leaves, leaving nothing but the skeleton of leaf veins; an examination will show a band of caterpillars of a light green color at work, who feed in a compact mass, oftentimes a square, with as much regularity as though under the best of military discipline. The readiest way to dispose of them is to break off the leaf and crush them under foot. The common large red caterpillar occasionally preys on the plants, eating large holes in the leaves, especially about the head. When the cabbage plot is bordered by grass land, in seasons when grass- hoppers are plenty, they will frequently destroy the outer rows, puncturing the leaves with small holes, and feeding on them until little besides their skele- tons remain. In isolated locations rabbits and other vegetable feeders sometimes commit depredations. The snare and the shot-gun are the remedy for these. Other insects that prey upon the cabbage tribe, in their caterpillar state, are the cabbage moth, white- line, brown-eyed moth, large white garden butterfly, white and green veined butterfly. All of these pro- duce caterpillars, which can be destroyed either by 22, CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWEBRS. application of air-slaked lime, or by removing the leaves infested and crushing the intruders under foot. The cabbage-fly, father-long-legs, the melli- pedes, the blue cabbage-fly, brassy cabbage-flea, and two or three other insect enemies are mentioned by McIntosh as infesting the cabbage fields of England ; also three species of fungi known as white rust, mil- dew, and cylindrosporium concentricum; these last are destroyed by the sprinkling of air-slaked lime on the leaves. In this country, along the sea coast of the northern section, in open-ground cultivation, there is comparatively but little injury done by these marauders, which are the cause of so much annoyance and loss to our English cousins. THE GREEN WORM. A new and troublesome enemy to the cabbage tribe which has made its appearance within a few years, and spread rapidly over a large section of the country, is a green worm, Anthomia brassice. ‘This pest infests the cabbage tribe at all stages of its growth; it is believed to have been introduced into this country from Europe, by the way of Canada, where it was probably brought in a lot of cabbage. It is the caterpillar of a white butterfly with black spots on its wings. In Europe, this butterfly is preyed on by two or more parasites, which keep it somewhat in check; but its remarkably rapid in- crease in this country, causing a wail of lamentation to rise in a single season from the cabbage growers over areas of tens of thousands of square miles, proved that when it first appeared it had reached this country without its attendant parasites. Besides this green worm, there are found in Europe CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. on four varieties of butterfly variously marked, the caterpillars from all of which make great havoc among the cabbage tribe. The most effective destroyer of this, and about every other insect pest, is what is known as the “Kerosene Emulsion.” This is made by churning common kerosene with milk or soap until it is diffused through the liquid. Take one quart of kerosene oil and pour it into a pint of hot water in which an ounce of common soap has been dissolved; churn this briskly while hot (a force pump is excellent for this), and, when well mixed, which will be in a few minutes, it will be of a creamy consistency ; mix one quart to ten or twelve of cold water, and spray or sprinkle it over the plants with a force-pump syringe or a whisk broom. Another remedy is pyrethrum. Use that which is fresh; either blowing it on in a dry state with a bellows, wherever the worm appears, or using it diluted, at the rate of a tablespoonful to two gallons of water; applying as with the kerosene emulsion. To protect the cabbage plant from its various enemies, our experi- mental stations make some excellent suggestions :— For Green Worm, Looper Worm, Web Moth, and all other insect enemies that work above ground, apply when vines are dry a fine spray of arsenate of lead (it can be procured from any large dealer in fertilizers), using five pounds to fifty gallons of water. Prob- ably more than one application will be needed, as there may be four or five generations of the green worm during the season. For Root Magot discs of tarred paper (cost $2.00 per 1,006 by ex- press) may be used around the plant when setting. For Cut Worm drop by each plant a little ball of mash, made from one pound of paris green to 60 pounds of bran, with molasses enough to sweeten. A piece of shingle laid near the plant will be likely to attract them beneath it. Collect and kill. 24 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. CLUB OR STUMP FOOT AND. MAGGOT. The great dread of every cabbage grower is a disease of the branching roots, producing a bunchy, eland-like enlargement, known in different localities under the name of club foot, stump foot, underground head, finger and thumb. The result is a check in the ascent of the sap, which causes a defective vital- ity. There are two theories as to the origin of club foot; one that it is a disease caused by poor soil, bad cultivation, and unsuitable manures; the other that the injury is done by an insect enemy, Curculio contractus. It is held by some that the maggots at the root are the progeny of the cabbage flea. This I doubt. This insect, “ piercing the skin of the root, deposits its eggs in the holes, lives during a time on the sap of the plant, and then escapes and buries itself for a time in the soil.” Tf the wart, or gland-like excrescence, is seen while transplanting, throw all such plants away, unless your supply is short; in such case, carefully trim off all the diseased portions with a sharp knife. If the dis- ease is in the growing crop, it will be made evident by the drooping of the leaves under the mid-day sun, leaves of diseased plants drooping more than those of healthy ones, while they will usually have a bluer cast. Should this disease show itself, set the culti- vator going immediately, and follow with the hoe, drawing up fresh earth around the plants, which will encourage them to form new fibrous roots; should they do this freely, the plants will be saved, as the attacks of the insect are usually confined to the coarse, branching roots. Should the disease prevail as late as when the plants have reached half their growth, CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 25 the chances are decidedly against raising a paying crop. When the land planted is too wet, or the manure in the hill is too strong, this dreaded disease is liable to be found on any soil; but it is most likely to mani- fest itself on soils that have been previously cropped with cabbage, turnip, or some other member of the Brassica family. Farmers find that, as a rule, it 7s not safe to follow cabbage, ruta baga, or any of the Brassica family, with cabbage, unless three or four years have intervened be- tween the crops; and I have known an instance in growing the Marblehead Mammoth, where, though five years had intervened, that portion of the piece occupied by the previous crop could be distinctly marked off by the presence of club-foot. Singular as it may appear, old gardens are an ex- ception to this rule. While it is next to impossible to raise, in old gardens, a fair turnip, free from club- foot, cabbages may be raised year after year on the same soil with impunity, or, at least, with but trifling injury from that disease. This seems to prove, con- trary to English authority, that club-foot in the turnip tribe is the effect of a different cause from the same disease in the cabbage family. There is another position taken by Stephens in his “Book of the Farm,” which facts seem to disprove. He puts forth the theory that “all such diseases arise from poverty of the soil, either from want of manure when the soil is naturally poor, or rendered effete by over-cropping.” There is a farm on a neck of land belonging to this town (Marblehead, Mass.), which has peculiar advantages for collecting sea kelp and sea moss, and these manures are there used most lib- 26 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. erally, particularly in the cultivation of cabbage, from eight to twelve cords of rotten kelp, which is stronger than barn manure, and more suitable food for cab- bage, being used to the acre. A few years ago, on a change of tenants, the new incumbent heavily ma- nured a piece for cabbage, and planted it; but, as the season advanced, stump-foot developed in every cab- bage on one side of the piece, while all the remainder were healthy. Upon inquiry, he learned that, by mistake, he had overlapped the cabbage plot of last season just so far as the stump-foot extended. In this instance, it could not have been that the cabbage suf- fered for want of food; for, not only was the piece heavily manured that year and the year previous, but it had been liberally manured through a series of years, and, to a large extent, with the manure which, of all others, the cabbage tribe delight in, rotten kelp and sea mosses. I have known other instances where soil, naturally quite strong, and kept heavily manured for a series of years, has shown stump-foot when cab- bage were planted, with intervals of two and three years between. My theory is, that the mere presence of the cabbage causes stump-foot on succeeding crops grown on the same soil. This is proved by the fact that where a piece of land in grass, close adjoining a piece of growing cabbage, had been used for stripping them for market, when this was broken up the next sea- son and planted to cabbage, stump-foot appeared only on that portion where the waste leaves fell the year previous. I have another instance to the same point, told me by an observing farmer, that, on a piece of sod land, on which he run his cultivator the year pre- vious, when turning his horse every time he had eul- tivated a row, he had stump-footed cabbage the next CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. a season just as far as that cultivator went, dragging, of course, a few leaves and a little earth from the cabbage piece with it. Still, though the mere pres- ence of cabbage causes stump-foot, it is a fact, that, under certain conditions, cabbage can be grown on the same piece of land year after year successfully, with but very little trouble from stump-foot. In this town (Marblehead), though, as I have stated, we cannot, on our farms, follow cabbage with cabbage, even with the highest of manuring and cultivation, yet in the gardens of the town, on the same kind of soil (and our soil is green stone and syenite, not natu- rally containing lime), there are instances where cab- bage has been successfully followed by cabbage, on the same spot, for a quarter of a century and more. In the garden of an aged citizen of this town, cab- bages have been raised on the same spot of land for over half a century. The cause of stump foot cannot, therefore, be found in the poverty of the soil, either from want of manure or its having been rendered effete from over cropping. It is evident that by long cultivation soils gradually have diffused through them some- thing that proves inimical to the disease that pro- duces stump foot. I will suggest as probable that the protection is afforded by the presence of some alkali that old gardens are constantly acquiring through house waste which is always finding its way there, particularly the slops from the sink, which abound in potash. This is rendered further probable from the fact given by Mr. Peter Henderson, that, on soils in this vicinity, naturally abounding in lime, cabbage can be raised year following year with almost immunity from stump foot. He ascribes this 28 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWEBS. to the effects of lime in the soil derived from marine shells, and recommends that lime from bones be used to secure the same protection; but the lime that enters into the composition of marine shells is for the most part carbonate of lime, whereas the greater portion of that which enters into the composition of bones is phosphate of lime. Common air-slaked lime is almost pure carbonate of lime, and hence comes nearer to the composition of marine shells than lime from bones, and, being much cheaper, would appear to be preferable. An able farmer told me that by using wood ashes liberally he could follow with cabbage the next sea- son on the same piece. One experiment of my own in this direction did not prove successful, where ashes at the rate of two hundred bushels to the acre were used; and I have an impression that I have read of a like want of success after quite liberal applications of lime. In amore recent experiment, on a gravelly loam on one of my seed farms in Mid- dleton, Mass., where two hundred bushels of un- leached ashes were used per acre, three-fourths broadcast, I have had complete success, raising as good a crop as I ever grew the second year on the same land, without a single stump foot on half an acre. Still, it remains evident, I think, that nature prevents stump foot by the diffusing of alkalies through the soil, and I mistrust that the reason why we sometimes fail with the same remedies is that we have them mixed, rather than intimately combined, with the particles of soil. The roots of young plants are sometimes attacked by a maggot, though there is no club root present. A remedy for this is said to be in the pouring of a CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 29 little of bisulphide of carbon within a few inches of the diseased plant. I have never tried it, but know that there is no better insecticide. As I have stated under another head, an attack of club foot is almost sure to follow the use of pure hog manure, whether it be used broadcast or in the hill. About ten years ago I ventured to use hog manure nearly pure, spread broadcast and ploughed in. Stump foot soon showed itself. I cultivated and hoed the cabbage thoroughly ; then, as they still appeared sickly, I had the entire piece thoroughly dug over with a six-tined fork, pushing it as deep or deeper into the soil than the plough had gone, to bring up the manure to the surface ; but all was of no use; I lost the entire crop. Yet, on another occa- sion, stable manure on which hogs had been kept at the rate of two hogs to each animal, gave me one of the finest lots of cabbage I ever raised. CARE OF THE GROWING CROP. As soon as the young plants are large enough to be seen with the naked eye, in with the cultivator and go and return once in each row, being careful not to have any lumps of earth cover the plants. Follow the cultivator immediately with the hoe, loosening the soil about the hills. The old rule with farmers is to cultivate and hoe cabbage three times during their erowth, and it isa rule that works very well where the crop is in good growing condition; but if the manure is deficient, the soil bakes, or the plants show signs of disease, then cultivate and hoe once or twice extra. ‘ Hoe cabbage when wet,” is another farmer’s axiom. In a small garden patch the soil may be stirred among the plants as often as may be con- 30 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. venient : it can do no harm; cabbages relish tending, though it is not necessary to do this every day, as one enthusiastic cultivator evidently thought, who declared that, by hoeing his cabbages every morning, ~ he had succeeded in raising capital heads. If a season of drouth occurs when the cabbages have begun to head, the heads will harden prema- turely ; and then should a heavy rain fall, they will start to make a new growth, and the consequence will be many of them will split. Split or bursted cabbage are a source of great loss to the farmer, and this should be carefully guarded against by going fre- quently over the piece when the heads are setting, and starting every cabbage that appears to be about mature. A stout-pronged potato hoe applied just under the leaves, and a pull given sufficient to start the roots on one side, will accomplish what is needed. If cabbage that have once been started seem still inclined to burst, start the roots on the other side. Instead of a hoe they may be pushed over with the foot, or with the hand. Frequently, heads that are thus started will grow to double the size they had attained when about to burst. There is a marked dif- ference in this habit in different varieties of cabbage. MARKETING THE CROP. When preparing for market cabbages that have been kept over winter, particularly if they are marketed late in the season, the edges of the leaves of some of the heads will be found to be more or less decayed ; do not strip such leaves off, but with a sharp knife cut clean off the decayed edges. The earlier the CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 31 variety the sooner it needs to be marketed, for, as a rule, cabbages push their shoots in the spring in the order of their earliness. If they have not been suffi- ciently protected from the cold the stumps will often rot off close to the head, and sometimes the rot will include the part of the stump that enters the head. If the watery-looking portion of the stump can be cut clean out the head is salable ; otherwise it will be apt to have an unpleasant flavor when cooked. As a rule, cabbages for marketing should be trimmed into as compact a form as possible; the heads should be cut off close to the stump, leaving two or three spare leaves to protect them. They may be brought out of the piece in bushel baskets, and be piled on the wagon as high as a hay stack, being kept in place by a stout canvas sheet tied closely down. In the markets of Boston, in the fall of the year, they are usually sold at a price agreed upon by the hundred head; this will vary not only with the size and quality of the cabbage, but with the season, the crop, and the quality in market on that particular day. Within a few years I have known the range of price for the Stone Mason or Fottler cabbage, equal in size and quality, to be from $3 to $17 per hundred ; for the Marblehead Mammoth from $6 to #25 per hundred. Cabbages brought to market in the spring are usually sold by weight or by the barrel, at from $1 to $4 per hundred pounds. The earliest cabbages carried to market sometimes bring extraordinary prices; and this has created a keen competition among market gardeners, each striving to produce the earliest, a difference of a week in marketing oftentimes making a difference of one half in the profits of the crop. Capt. Wyman, who 32 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWEBS. half in the profits of the crop. As a rule, it is the very early and the very late cabbages that sell most profitably. Should the market for very late cabbages prove a poor one, the farmer is not compelled to sell them, no matter at what sacrifice, as would be the case a month earlier; he can pit them, and so keep them over to the early spring market, which is almost always a profitable one. In marketing in spring it should be the aim to make sale before the crops of spring greens become plenty, or the Florida-grown crop reaches the market, as these replace the cabbage on many tables. By starting cabbage in hot-beds a crop of celery or squashes may follow them the same season. KEEPING CABBAGES THROUGH THE WINTER. In the comparatively mild climate of England, where there are but few days in the winter months that the ground remains frozen to any depth, the hardy cabbage grows all seasons of the year, and turnips left during winter standing in the ground are fed to sheep by yarding them over the different portions of the field. With the same impunity, in the southern portion of our own country, the cabbages are left unpro- tected during the winter months ; and, in the warmer portions of the South they are principally a winter crop. As we advance farther North, we find that the degree of protection needed is afforded by running the plough along each side of the rows, turning the earth against them, and dropping a little litter on top of the heads. As we advance still farther northward, we find sufficient protection given by but little more than a rough roof of boards thrown over the heads, © CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. after removing the cabbages to a sheltered spot and setting them in the ground as near together as they will stand without being in contact, with the tops of the heads just level with the surface. In the latitude of central New England, cabbages are not secure from injury from frost with less than a foot of earth thrown over the heads. In mild winters a covering of half that depth will be sufficient; but as we have no prophets to foretell our mild winters, a foot of earth is safer than six inches. Where eel- grass can be procured along the sea coast, or there is straw or coarse hay to spare, the better plan is to cover with about six inches of earth, and when this is frozen sufficiently hard to bear a man’s weight (which is usually about Thanksgiving time), to scatter over it the eel-grass, forest leaves, straw, or coarse hay, to the depth of another six inches. Eel- grass, which grows on the sandy flats under the ocean along the coast, is preferred to any other covering as it lays light and keeps in dead air which is a non- conductor of heat. Forest leaves are next in value; but snow and water are apt to get among these and freezing solid destroy most of their protecting value. When I use forest leaves, I cover them with coarse hay, and add branches of trees to prevent its being blownaway. In keeping cabbages through the winter, three general facts should be borne in mind, viz.: that repeated freezing and thawing will cause them to rot; that excessive moisture or warmth will also cause rot; while a dry air, such as is found in most cellars, will abstract moisture from the leaves, injure the flavor of the cabbage, and cause some of the heads to wilt, and the harder heads to waste. In the Middle States we have mostly to fear the wet of winter, and 34 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. the plan for keeping for that section should, therefore, have particularly in view protection from moisture, while in the Northern States wé have to fear the cold of winter, and, consequently, our plan must there have specially in view protection from cold. When storing for winter, select a dry day, if pos- sible, sufficiently long after rainy weather to have the leaves free of water, — otherwise they will spout it on to you, and make you the wettest and muddiest scarecrow ever seen off a farm,—then strip all the outer leaves from the head but the two last rows, which are needed to protect it. This may be readily done by drawing in these two rows toward the head with the left hand, while a blow is struck against the remaining leaves with the fist of the right hand. Next pull up the cabbages, which, if they are of the largest varieties, may be expeditiously done by a potato hoe. If they are not intended for seed purposes, stand the heads down and stumps up until the earth on the roots is somewhat dry, when it can be mostly removed by sharp blows against the stump given with a stout stick. In loading do not bruise the heads. Select the place for keeping them ina dry, level location, and, if in the North, a southern exposure, where no water can stand and there can be no wash. To make the pit, run the plough along from two to four furrows, and throw out the soil with the shovel to the requisite depth, which may be from six to ten inches; now, if the design is to roof over the pit, the cabbages may be put in as thickly as they will stand; if the heads are solid they may be either head up or stump up, and two layers deep; but if the heads are soft, then heads up and one deep, and not crowded very close, that they Tt CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWEBRS. oo may have room to make heads during the winter. Having excavated an area twelve by six feet, set a couple of posts in the ground midway at each end, projecting about five feet above the surface 3, connect the two by a joist secured firmly to the top of each, and against this, extending to the eround just out- side the pit, lay slabs, boards or poles, and cover the roof that will be thus formed with six inches of straw or old hay, and, if in the North, throw six or eight inches of earth over this. Leave one end open for entrance and to air the pit, closing the other end with straw or hay. In the North close both ends, opening one of them occasionally in mild weather. When cabbages are pitted on a large scale this system of roofing is too costly and too cumbersome. A few thousand may be kept in a cool root cellar, by putting one layer heads down, and standing another layer heads up between these. Within a few years farmers in the vicinity of Lowell, Mass., have pre- served their cabbages over winter, on a large scale, by a new method, with results that have been very satisfactory. They cut off that portion of the stump which contains the root; strip off most of the outer leaves, and then pile the cabbages in piles, six or eight feet high, in double rows, with boards to keep them apart, in cool cellars, which are built half out of ground. The temperature of these, by the judi- cious opening and closing of windows, is kept as nearly as possibly at the freezing point. The com- mon practice in the North, when many thousands are to be stored for winter and spring sales, is to select a southern exposure having the protection of a fence or wall, if practicable, and, turning furrows with the plough, throw out the earth with shovels, to 56 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. the depth of about six inches ; the cabbages, stripped as before described, are then stored closely together, ° and straw or coarse hay is thrown over them to the depth of a foot or eighteen inches. Protected thus they are accessible for market at any time during the winter. If the design is to keep them over till spring, the covering may be first six inches of earth, to be followed, as cold increases, with six inches of straw, litter, or eel-grass. This latter is my own prac- tice, with the addition of leaving a ridge of earth be- tween every three or four rows, to act as a support and keep the cabbages from falling over. I am, also, careful to bring the cabbages to the pit as soon as pulled, with the earth among the roots as little dis- turbed as possible ; and, should the roots appear to be dry, to throw a little earth over them after the cab- bages are set in the |trench. The few loose leaves remaining will prevent the earth from sifting down between the heads, and the air chambers thus made answer a capital purpose in keeping out the cold, as air is one of the best non-conductors of heat. It is said that muck-soil, when well drained, is an excellent one to bury cabbage in, as its antiseptic properties preserve them from decay. If the object is to pre- serve the cabbage for market purposes only, the heads may be buried in the same position in which they erew, or they may be inverted, the stump having no value in itself; but if for seed purposes, they must be buried head up, as, whatever injures the stump, spoils the whole cabbage for that object. I store between ten and fifty thousand heads annually to raise seed from, and carry them through till planting time with a degree of success varying from a loss, for seed pur- poses, of from one-half to thirty-three per cent. of the CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 3T number buried: but, if handled early in spring, many that would be worthless for seed purposes, could be profitably marketed. A few years since, I buried a lot with a depth varying from one to four feet, and found, on uncovering them in the spring, that all had kept, and apparently equally well. In the winter of 1868, excessively cold weather came very early and unexpectedly, before my cabbage plot had yeceived its full covering of litter. The consequence was, the frost penetrated so deep that it froze through the heads into the stumps, and, when spring came, a large portion of them came out spoiled for seed purposes, though most of them sold readily in the market. A cabbage is rendered worthless for seed when the frost strikes through the stump where it joins the head, and though, to the unpractised eye, all may appear right, yet, if the heart of the stump has a water-soaked appearance on being cut into, it will almost uniformly decay just below the head in the course of afew weeks after having been planted out. If there is a proba- bility that the stumps have been frozen through, examine the plot early, and, if it proves so, sell the cabbages for eating purposes, no matter how sound and handsome the heads look ; if you delay until time for planting out the cabbage for seed, meanwhile much waste will occur. I once lost heavily in Mar- blehead Mammoth cabbage by having them buried on a hill-side with a gentle slope. In the course of the winter they fell over on their sides, which let down the soil from above, and, closing the air-chambers between them, brought the huge heads into a mass, and the result was, a large proportion of them rotted badly. At another time, I lost a whole plot by bury- ing them in soil between ledges of rock, which kept 38 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. the ground very wet when spring opened; the conse- quence was, every cabbage rotted. If the heads are frozen more than two or three leaves deep before they are pitted they will not come out so handsome in the spring; but cabbages are very hardy, and they readily rally from a little freezing, either in the open ground or after they are buried, though it is best, when they are frozen in the open ground, to let them remain there until the frost comes out before removing them, if it can be done without too much risk of freezing still deeper, as they handle better then, for, being tougher, the leaves are not so easily broken. If the soil is frozen to any depth before the cabbages are removed, the roots will be likely to be injured in the pulling, a matter of no consequence if the cabbages are intended for market, but of some importance if they are for seed raising. Large cabbages are more easily pulled by giving them a little twist; if for seed purposes, this should be avoided, as it injures the stump. those of the best quality requiring about twenty minutes, while others require an hour. In cooking put it into boiling water in which a little salt and soda has been sprinkled, which will tend to preserve the natural green color. It will be well to change the water once. The peculiar aroma given out by cabbage when cooking is thought to depend somewhat on the manner in which it is grown; those having been raised with the least rank manure having the least. JI think this is one of the whims of the community. By using some varieties of boilers all steam is carried into the fire, and there is no smell in the house. To Pickle, select hard heads, quarter them, soak in salt and water four or five days, then drain and treat as for other pickles, with vinegar spiced to suit. For Cold Slaw, select hard heads, halve and then slice up these halves exceedingly fine. Lay these in a deep dish, and pour over vinegar that has been raised to the boiling point in which has been mixed a little pepper and salt. Sour-Krout. Take large, hard-headed drumheads, halve, and cut very fine; then pack in a clean, tight barrel, beginning with a sprinkling of salt, and follow- CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 81 ing with a layer of cabbage, and thus alternating until the barrel is filled. Now compact the mass as much as possible by pounding, after which put on a well- fitting cover resting on the cabbage, and lay heavy weights or a stone on this. When fermented it is ready for use. To prepare for the table fry in butter or fat. The outer green leaves of cabbages are sometimes used to line a brass or copper kettle in which pickles are made in the belief that the vinegar extracts the coloring substance (chlorophyl) in the leaves, and the cucumbers absorbing this acquire a rich green color. Be not deceived by this transparent cheat, O simple housewife! the coloring matter comes almost wholly from the copper or brass behind those leaves’; and, instead of an innocent vegetable pigment, your green cucumbers are dyed with the poisonous carbonate of copper. CABBAGES UNDER GLASS. The very early cabbages usually bringing high prices, the enterprising market gardener either win- ters the young plants under glass or starts them there, planting the seed underits protecting shelter long be- fore the cold of winteris passed. When the design is to winter over fall grown plants, the seed are planted an the open ground about the middle of September, and at about the last of October they are ready to go into the cold frames, as such are called that depend wholly on the sun for heat. Select those having short stumps and transplant into the frames, about an inch and a half by two inches apart, setting them deep in the soil up to the lower leaves, shading them with a straw mat, or the like, fora few days, after 82 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. which let them remain without any glass over them until the frost is severe enough to begin to freeze the ground, then place over the sashes; but bear in mind that the object is not to promote growth, but, as nearly as possible, to keep them in a dormant state, to keep them so cold that they will not grow, and just sufficiently protected to prevent injury from freezing. With this object in view the sashes must be raised whenever the temperature is above freezing, and this process will so harden the plants that they will receive no serious injury though the ground under the sash should freeze two inches deep; cab- bage plants will stand a temperature of fifteen to twenty degrees below the freezing point. A covering of snow on the sash will do no harm, if it does not last longer than a week or ten days, in which case it must be removed. There is some danger to be feared from ground mice, who, when everything else is locked up by the frost, will instinctively take to the sash, and there cause much destruction among the plants unless these are occasionally examined. When March opens remove the sash when the temperature will allow, replacing it when the weather is unseasonably cold, particularly at night. Plants started in hot-beds may be brought still farther forward by transferring them when two or three inches high to cold frames, hay- ing first somewhat hardened them. When so trans-, ferred plant them about an inch apart and shield from the sun for two or three days. After this they may be treated as in cold frames. The transfer tends to keep them stocky, increases the fibrous roots and makes the plants hardier. As the month advances the sash may be left entirely off, and about the first of April the plants may be set out in the CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 83 open field, pressing fine earth firmly around the roots. When cabbages are raised in hot-beds the seed, in the latitude of Boston, should be planted on thes first of March; in that of New York, about a fort- night earlier. When two or three inches high, which will be in three or four weeks, they should be thinned to about four or less to an inch in. the row. They should now be well hardened by partly draw- ing off the sashes in the warm part of the day, and covering at night; as the season advances remove the sashes entirely by day, covering only at night. By about the middle of April the plants will be ready for the open ground. When raised in cold frames in the spring, the seed should be planted about the first of April, mats being used to retain by night the solar heat accumulated during the day. As the season advances the same. process of hardening will be necessary as with those raised in hot-beds. COLD FRAME AND HOT-BED. To carry on hot-beds on a large scale successfully is almost an art in itself, and for fuller details iL will refer my readers to works on gardening. Early plants, in a small way, may be raised in flower pots or boxes in a warm kitchen window. It is best, if practicable, to have but one plant in each pot, that they may grow short and stocky. If the seed are not planted earlier than April, for out-of-door culti- vation, a cold frame will answer. For a cold frame select the locality in the fall, choosing a warm location on a southern slope, pro- tected by a fence or building on the north and north- 84 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. west. Set posts in the ground, nail two boards to these parallel to each other, one about a foot in height, and the other towards the south about four inches narrower ; this will give the sashes resting on them the right slope to shed the rain and receive as much heat as possible from the sun. Have these boards at a distance apart equal to the length of the sash, which may be any common window sash for a small bed, while three and a half feet is the length of a common gardener’s sash. If common window sash is used cut channels in the cross-bars to let the water run off. Dig the ground thoroughly (it is best to cover it in the fall with litter, to keep the frost out) and rake out all stones or clods; then slide in the sash and let it remain closed for three or four days, that the soil may be warmed by the sun’s rays. The two end boards and the bottom board should rise as high as the sash, to prevent the heat escaping, and the bottom board of a small frame should have a strip nailed inside to rest the sash on. Next rake in, thoroughly, some good fertilizer, or finely pul- verized hen manure, and plant in rows four to six inches apart. As the season advances raise the sashes an inch or two, in the middle of the day, and water freely, at evening, with water that is nearly of the temperature of the earth in the frame. As the heat of the season increases whitewash the glass, and keep them more and more open until just before the plants are set in open ground, then allow the glass to remain entirely off, both day and night, unless there should be a cold rain. This will harden them so that they will not be apt to be injured by the cabbage beetle, as well as chilled and put back by the change. Should the plants be getting too large CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 85 before the season for transplanting, they should be checked by root pruning, — drawing a sharp knife within a couple of inches of the stalk. If it is de- sirable still further to check their growth, or harden them, transplant into another cold frame, allowing each plant double the distance it before occupied. The structure and management of a hot-bed is much the same as that of a cold frame, with the exception that the sashes are usually longer and the back and front somewhat higher; being started earlier the requisite temperature has to be kept up by artificial means, fermenting manure being relied upon for the purpose, and the loss of this heat has to be checked more carefully by straw matting, and, in the far North, by shutters also. In constructing it, horse-manure, with plenty of litter, and about a quarter its bulk in leaves, if attainable, all having been well mixed together, is thrown into a pile, and left for a few days until steam escapes, when the mass is again thrown over and left for two or three days more, after which it is thrown into the pit (or it may be placed directly on the surface) which is lined with boards, from eighteen inches to two feet in depth, when it is beaten down with a fork and trodden well together. The sashes are now put on and kept there until heat is developed. The first intense heat must be allowed to pass off, which will be in about three days after the high temper- ature is reached. Now throw on six or eight inches of fine soil, in which mix well rotted manure, free from all straw, or rake in thoroughly some good fertilizer, at the rate of two thousand pounds to the acre, and plant the seed as in cold frame. Harden the plants as directed in preceding paragraph. 86 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. CAULIFLOWER, BROCCOLI, BRUSSELS- SPROUTS, KALE, AND SEA-KALE. My treatise on the cabbage would hardly be com- plete without some allusion to such prominent mem- bers of the Brassica family as the cauliflower, broccoli, brussels-sprouts, and kale. Cauliflower. Wrote the great Dr. Johnson: “ Of all the flowers of the garden, give me the cauli- flower.” Whether from this we are to infer the surpassing excellence of this member of the Bras- sica family, or that the distinguished lexicographer meant emphatically to state his preference of utility to beauty (perhaps our own Ben. Franklin took a leaf from him), each reader must be his own judge; but be that as it may, it remains true, beyond all con- troversy, that the cauliflower, in toothsome excel- lence, stands at the head of the great family of which it isa member. To be successful, and raise choice cauliflowers, is the height of the ambition of the market gardener; and, with all his experience, and with every facility at hand, he does not expect full success oftener than three years in four. The cauli- flower, like the strawberry, is exceedingly sensitive to the presence or absence of sufficient water, and success or failure with the crop may turn on its hav- ing a full supply from the time they are half grown. The finest specimens raised in Europe are grown in beds, which are kept well watered from the supply which runs between them; and the most successful growers in the country irrigate their crops during periods of drouth. Cauliflowers do best on deep, rich, rather moist soils. In the way of food, they want the very best, and plenty of it at that. The successful CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 87 competitor, who won the first prize at the great Bay State Fair, to the disgusted surprise of a grower justly famous for his almost uniform success in win- ning the laurels, whispered in my ear his secret: ‘“‘R,. manures very heavily in the spring for his crop. I manure very heavily both fall and spring.” In manuring, therefore, do as well by them as by your heaviest crop of large drumhead cabbage, using rich and well-rotted manure, broadcast, with dissolved bone or ashes, or both, in the drill. Plough deep, and work the land very thoroughly, two ploughings, with a harrowing between, are better than one. Give plenty of room; three by three for the smaller sorts, and three by three and a half for the later and larger. They need the same cultivation, and, being subject to the same diseases and injury from insect enemies, need the same protection as their cousins of the cab- bage tribe. In raising for the summer market, start in the cold frame, or plant as early as the ground can be worked, that the plants may get well started before the dry season, or the crop will be likely to make such small heads,“ buttons,” as to be practically a failure. For late crop, plant seed in the hills where they are to grow, from the 20th of May to the mid- dle of June. The crop ripens somewhat irregularly. When there is danger from frost, the later heads should be pulled and stored, with both roots and leaves, being crowded, standing as they grew, into a cold cellar or cold pit, when they will continue growing. As soon as the heads begin to form, they should be protected from sunlight by either half breaking off the outer leaves and bending them over them, or by gathering these leaves loosely together and confining them loosely by rough pegs, or by tying them together with a wisp of rye-straw. 88 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. Varieties. These are almost as numerous as in the cabbage family. I find notes on some thirty-five varieties, tested from year to year, in my experimen- tal grounds. Most of them prove themselves to be but a lottery, in this country of dry seasons, though in the moister climate of the European localities, where they are at home, they are a success. The Half-Early Paris, or Demi-Dur, was for years the standard variety raised in this coun- obtained ; but, of late years, this has been, to a large degree, su- perseded by several excellent sorts, of which the Extra- 84 TT HIE BALL NS cipal among these varieties is the Snowball, the CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 89 After testing it side by side with other varieties, I find that the best strain of the Snowball is not excelled. Of the somewhat later ripening sorts, a variety which originated in this country, called the “Long Island Beauty,” gives great satisfaction, in its reliability for heading, and in the large size of its heads; this, with the Algerian, as a larger late sort, will give us a first-class series. Cauliflower seed is not raised, as yet, to any large extent in this country, though some successful efforts have recently been made in this direction. I have found that there is a remarkable difference between varieties in the quantity of seed they will yield. From one variety I have raised as high as sixty pounds of seed from five hundred plants, while from two others, equally early, having the same number of plants in each instance, and raised in the same location (an island in the ocean), with precisely the 90 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. same treatment in every way, I got, in each case, less than a tablespoonful of seed, though the heads of some of them grew to the enormous size of sixteen inches in diameter. A fine cauliflower is the pet achievement of the market gardener. The great aim is not to produce size only, “ but the fine, white, creamy color, compact- ness, and what is technically called curdy appearance, from its resemblance to the curd of milk in its prep- aration for cheese. When the flower begins to open, or when it is of a warty or frost-like appearance, it is less esteemed. It should not be cut in summer above a day before it is used.” The cauliflower is served with milk and butter, or it may become a com- ponent of soups, or be used as a pickle. The Broecoliare closely allied to the cauliflower, the white varieties bearing so close a resemblance that one of them, the Walcheren, is by some classed indiscriminately with each. The chief distinction between the two is in hardiness, the broccoli being much the hardier. Of Broccoli over forty varieties are named in foreign catalogues, of which WALCHEREN is one of the very best. KNIGHT’s PROTECTING is an _ ex- ceedingly hardy dwarf sort. As a rule, the white varieties are preferred to the purple kinds. Plant and treat as cauliflower. Of Brussels-Sprouts (or bud-bearing cabbage ) there are but two varieties, the dwarf and the tall; the tall kind produces more buds, while the dwarf is the hardier. The “sprouts” form on the stalks, and are miniature heads of cabbage from the size of a pea to that of a pigeon’s egg. They are raised to but a limited extent in this country, but in Europe they CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 91 are grown on a large scale. The sprouts may be cooked and served like cabbage, though oftentimes they are treated more as a delicacy and served with butter or some rich sauce. The FEATHER STEM SAvoy and DALMENY SPROUTS are considered as — hybrids, the one between the brussels-sprouts and Savoy, the other between it and Drumhead Savoy. The soil for brussels-sprouts should not be so rich as for cabbage, as the object is to grow them small and solid. Give the same distance apart as for early cab- bage, and the same manner of cultivation. Break off the leaves at the sides a few at a time when the sprouts begin to form and when they are ready to use cut them off with a sharp knife. Kale. Sea-kale, or sea-cabbage, is a native of the - sea coast of England, growing in the sand and pebbles of the sea-shore. It is a perennial, perfectly hardy, withstanding the coldest winters of New England. The blossoms, though bearing a general resemblance to those of other members of the cabbage family, are yet quite unique in appearance, and I think worthy of a place in the flower garden. It is propagated both by seed and by cuttings of the roots, having the rows three feet apart, and the plants three feet apart in the rows. It is difficult to get the seeds to vege- tate. Plant seed in April and May. The ground should be richly manured, and deeply and thoroughly worked. It is blanched before using. In cooking it it requires to be very thoroughly boiled, after which it is served up in melted butter and toasted bread. The sea-kale is highly prizedin England; but thus far its cultivation in this country has been very limited. The Borecole, or common kale, is of the cabbage 92 CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. family, but is characterized by not heading like the cabbage or producing eatable flowers like the cauli- flower and broccoli. The varieties are very numer- ous, some of them growing very large and coarse, suitable only as food for stock ; others are exceedingly finely curled, and excellent for table use ; while others in their color and structure are highly ornamental. They are annual, biennial, and perennial. They do not require so strong a soil or such high manuring as other varieties of the cabbage family. The varieties are almost endless; some of the best in cultivation for table use are the DWARF ScotcnH, DWARF GREEN CURLED or GERMAN GREENS, TALL GREEN CURLED, PURPLE BORECOLE, and the varie- gated kales. The crown of the plantis used as greens, or as an ingredient in soups. The kales are very hardy, and the dwarf varieties, with but little protec- tion, can be kept in the North well into the winter in the open ground. Plant and cultivate like Savoy cabbage. The variegated sorts, with their fine curled leaves of a rich purple, green, red, white, or yellow color, are very pleasing in their effects, and form a striking and attractive feature when planted in clumps in the flower garden, particularly is this so because their ex- treme hardiness leaves them in full vigor after the cold has destroyed all other plants — some of the rich- est colors are developed along the veins of the upper- most leaves after the plant has nearly finished its growth for the season. The JERSEY Cow KALE grows to from three to six feet in height and yields a ereat body of green food for stock; have the rows about three feet apart, and the plants two to three feet distant in the rows, In several instances my ~“ CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS. 93 customers have written me that this kale raised for stock feed has given them great satisfaction. The stalks of this variety of kale are manufactured into canes. The THoUSAND-HEADED KALE is a tall variety sending out numerous side shoots, whence the name. KOHL-RABI. The KOHL-RABI, or cabbage-turnip, as it is often called Gts peculiar structure suggesting a combina- tion of these two vegetables), is extensively culti- vated in parts of Europe for stock feeding. To raise, prepare the ground as for a good crop of cabbage; have the soil made as fine as for an onion crop, and plant in rows about 18 inches apart, and thin plants to three inches in the rows. For early use they can be started in the hotbed and transplanted like cabbage. They do better in the cooler months of the early or late season. They may be stored for winter use, like turnips. For a fall crop they can be planted as late as tuynips. There are two varieties catalogued, the white and the purple Vienna, the difference being mere matter of color. In recent years the kohl-rabi has, to some extent, become a favorite for table use. When fully grown it is tough, fibrous and worthless for this pur- pose, but in its early stage of growth, when it has attained a diameter of two inches or a little more, connoisseurs rank it in quality as superior even to the cauliflower. For table use boil till tender and mash, to be eaten with a white sauce; or slice, when well cooked, and fry in butter. \ j Oe eee "lee Pie =y 1 Ms Ji) 7) a ) ‘ : an oy Ne wr a Wye rare 7M Ne : By. rma) ‘ Malai a are ur By, " ms 1 mie A y ha ¥ . a oes us ake ee. Pi a fee Ne hy : nie me +1 ep! mi ee i, oe ah F / Ree ue aM at raat 34 qi be mG Ph he, hen nn it ee ties : We ell ca r ante: Pay 5 Bt, |) gee eae Mee ear 4 i ain MON he oric Lene pra | es oe mee lk, B. ide eg a Bia ee yey a Pha iY a 7 are ye Fae *, \ ; 7 ua 7 VEY a > YE al Re aol ey a ain oe ee Aw y at tT ; (uel Dp. ¥ a ie “. ao ts a oe oi: a a, a ave: - a | See _ ie an nd nye ae. es : 7 i ap i ort’ goa | sn a ni 5 tee baie < he ‘ ms ' 7 Hes Saas Ras sis, a VG er ) ; o 7 hoe 28 f ea ut ay hy Pad ae i : ‘ oe a ae ‘es a4 Ts? ti PY ‘ te ah v aie oe ui x. 1 v4 ag 154 ae ae @ 7 ae a Hi : mf Wy 7 aoe as - ilk a oie 7 7 NOV 30 1 ONION RAISING WHAT HINDS TO RAISE AND THE WAY TO RAISE THEM JAMES J. H. GREGORY SEED GROWER AND DEALER Marblehead, Mass. This work has been warmly recommended by some of the best authorities in the country, and has gone through twenty editions. It gives the minutest details, from selecting the j ground and preparing the soil, up to gathering and marketing the crop. WUlustrated with thirteen engravings of Onions, Sowing Machines, and Weeding Machines. _ PRICE, BY MAIL, 50 CENTS A New Treatise © Carrots, Mangold Wurtzels AND Sugar Beets WHAT KIND TO RAISE How to Grow Them and How to Feed Them THIS TREATISE PRESENTS, IN MINUTEST DETAIL, EVERY STEP OF PROGRESS, FROM PLANTING THE SEED TO THE MATURED CROP BY JAMES J. H. GREGORY MARBLEHEAD, MASS. PRICE, BY MAIL, 30 CENTS Deana NDE