'^•
'im:
■■■■■■■I ■■■■■■■I
'■■■■'■nil
|
« « • |
I'.BBBM
i
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
The Gastronomy Collection of George Holl
AGRIC. LIBRARY
-FT SOBI^BLXjSI^^^^S
Dealer in
FURNITURE,
BEDDING.
CARPETS
AND
CROCKERY.
REPAIRING-
Neatly done.
1 1th Street, Odd
Fellows Bailding
H. SCHELLHAAS,
;~404 to 414
Smiling Bargaias at
H. SCHELLHAAS
nth Street.
We invite all residents of Oakland to give us a call and we will show them the largest assorted stock on the Pacific Coast. Our stock comprises any and every thing that is useful in the House- keeping line, new and second-hand. Repairing, Re-upholstering, Varnishing, and Resetting Mirrors promptly attended to.
In order to be happy buy your
FURNITURE
AT
H. Schellhaas,
^__.=_.^ 11th Street, Oakland.
G-reat and Small, all served alike at H. Schellhaas
EVERY WIFE
Is interested in preserving the health of the members of her family
boldii]g:s6pei]s
Will do more towards this than one who don't know can realize. It breaks the draft and concen- trates the heat and saves coal and prevents colds.
ICHI BAN,
^ 22 and 24 Geary Street,'
More than 100 varieties from $2.50 up.
THE
[CALIFORNIA
iV
Practical Cook Book
AS A MAN EATETH, SO IS HE,
OAKLAND, CAL;
PACIFIC PRESS PUBLISHING CO.
1 2th and Castro Streets. 1882.
PREFACE,
No society is complete now-a-days without a literary depart- jnent. We might as well be out of the world as out of the :^ashion, so we have collected the brightest productions and jmost brilliant efforts of our respected sisterhood, and formed what we here present to you — A Cook Book — trusting that the long pent-up thoughts, that here find utterance, when thoroughly masticated and digested, may prove a source of untold happiness in many a family to which we hope our lit- .tle work will prove a welcome visitor.
We do not claim originality of design in issuing this col- lection, nor have we been able in every case to trace our recipes to their original authority; but they have all been tested and found reliable by the ladies whose names accom- pany them, and, if any of them fail, upon fair trial, to produce the expected results, it will be because of the omission of that amount of perseverance, discretion and common sense which ds essential to the success of any undertaking.
We are indebted to friends, not connected with our Society for valuable recipes and hints concerning our work, and we hereby acknowledge their kindness and offer them our sincere thanks.
C32.
AGRIC. LIBRARY
YEAST.
HOP YEAST.
One quart of water, one handful hops, two large- potatoes; boil all together until the potatoes are done- Have ready a cup of flour with a teaspoonful each of salt, sugar and ginger; pift the potatoes into the water^ scald all together with the hop water, and when almost^ cold add one teacupful of baker's yeast and let it stand' in a warm place until light, then put it in the cellar closely covered. This will keep two or three weeks. ^
POTATO YEAST. Five good-sized potatoes, grated, one half cup of sugar, one half cup of flour, one half cup of salt; stir all ; together and pour boiling water over until of the con- sistency of starch. Let it stand until lukewarm, then- add yeast to raise it.
RAILROAD YEAST.
One half pint middlings, one half teaspoonful each of salt, ginger, soda and sugar, mix all together and scald with one half pint of boiling water; let it rise for twelve houre, keep warm until light, then put it away in a cool place. It will keep two weeks. To make the emptings take one half pint warm water, a pinch of salt, flour enough to make a thin batter, and add a teaspoonful of railroad yeast ; let it rise, and then use for the bread.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., are 10 per ct. below S. F. Prices.
Practical Cook Book.
BREAD.
BROWN BREAD.
Three cups sour milk, one cup molasses, two cups corn meal, two cups graham flour, one cup flour, one and a half teaspoonful saleratus. Steam two and a half hours.
INDIAN BREAD.
Two quarts buttermilk, one half cup molasses, one %ablespoonful salt, one tablespoonful soda dissolved in hot water, mix as thick as can be stirred with Indian meal and wheat or graham flour. Let it stand half an hour in a warm p'ace, then steam three hours.
GRAHAM BREAD,
One cup Indian meal scalded, one cup warm water, one half cup yeast, one half cup molasses, one half tea- spoonful each of soda and salt. Stir to a stiff* batter ■with graham flour. Steam- one hour.
BROWN BREAD.
Four cups corn meal, two cups flour, one cup molasses, four cups sour milk, two teaspoonfuls soda, and one of salt. Steam two hours bake one hour. Makes two loaves.
^ennison, Liebmann &Go,1157&lld9 Broadway, Oakland
Practical Cook Book.
BREAKFAST CAKES.
FRENCH ROLLS.
One quart milk, one quart flour, two tablespoonfuls butter, two eggs, one teaspoonful salt, one half cup yeast.
FRITTERS.
One pint milk (sour), two eggs, salt, flour to make thick as pound cake; drop in hot lard.
APPLE FRITTERS.
Make batter not very stifl", with one quart milk, three eggs and flour. Pare and core one dozen apples, chop flne, and mix well in the batter. Fry in laid.
BROWN BREAD.
Three cups graham flour, two cups corn meal, ote cup New Orleans molasses, one pint sweet milk, one half cup of warm water, one teaspoonful salt, one small teaspoonful soda. Steam two and a half hours, then put in the oven and brown nicely.
BOSTON BROWN BREAD.
One pint bowl of corn meal, one pint bowl of rye flour, one coflee cup molasses, salt, wet very soft with sour milk, one heaping teaspoonful saleratus dissolved in hot water, added the last thing. Steam four to six hours.
ANOTHER BBOWN BREAD.— Mrs. H.
Two cups wheat flour, two cups meal, one cup molasses, one cup sweet milk, one cup sour milk, one teaspoonful soda.
Benmson, Liebmann & Co., Table Linen* Napkins, Etc*
6 Practical Cook Book.
WAFFLES.— Mr. H. Gather.
Two eggs well beaten, one and a half cups flour, three teaspoonfuls baking powder, one and a half cvjp sweet milk, salt to taste. Have hot fire; bake in waffle irons.
WAFFLES.— Mrs. M. B.
One quart sour milk, one teaspoonful soda, one egg, thicken with flour. Bake in waffle irons.
MUFFINS.
One quart milk, two eggs, two tablespoonfuls yeast, butter size of egg. Let rise a few hours, or over night, and bake in gem tins or muffin rings.
CORN BREAD.
One cup corn meal, one cup flour, one tablespoonful lard; salt, one cup sour milk, one and a half teaspoon- ful soda dissolved in hot water, one-half cup molasses, add more flour if necessary, make stiff* batter ; bake in quick oven.
PUSSIE'S GEMS.— Miss E. Bradway.
One quart flour, three t<av^poonfuls baking powder, one spoonful lard, mix with cold water or sweet milk. Rub the flour, yeast powder and lard together smoothly, add milk; an egg makes them extra.
BUCKWHEAT CAKES.
Two cups buckwheat flour, one-half cup wheat flour, stir to stiff" batter with waVm water, add one half cup yeast; let rise over night. In the morning pour out nearly all of the batter into another dish (leaving one pint for raising again), add two tablespoonfuls molasses, one-half teaspoonful soda dissolved in hot water, thin the batter with warm water till right for baking on a griddle.
Bennison, liebmann & Co.. the Leading Dry Goods House^
Practical Cook Book. 7
GRAHAM MUFFINS.
One quart graham flour, one-half cup brown sugai» one teaspoonful salt, two tablespoonfuls yeast, warm water enough to stir with a spoon; when light drop in muffin rings.
CORN LUNN-
One cup corn meal, two cups flour, one and a half cups f-ugar, three eggs, three-fourths cup melted butter, one cup milk, oue teaspoonful soda, two teaspoonfuls cream tarter; a little salt.
CORN CAKES.
One pint scraped corn, one pint sweet milk, two eggs, one teaspoonful salt, three teaspoonfuls baking powder.. Thicken with flour as for griddle cakes; fry quickly in* pork gravy or lard.
CORN OYSTERS.— Mrs. Smith.
Grate as many ears of corn as will make one pint, add one and a half cups of flour, one egg, a little pepper and salt; fry in butter.
ARTIFICIAL OYSTERS.— Miss E. Dearborn.
To one pint of grated corn add one egg well beaten,, one teacup flour, one-half cup butter, salt and pepper; mix well together. A tablespoonful will make the size of an oyster. Fry a light brown in butter.
OMELETTES.
One egg (yolk and white beaten separately), one tablespoonful milk, one teaspoon flour; rub flour and yolk smooth, add milk and white of egg and a little salt. Bake like griddle cakes; when nearly done on one side, do not turn, but fold double; serve hot. This is intended for one person.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., Gloves, Laces and Hosiery.
S Practical Cook Cook.
BAKING POWDER BISCUIT.— Mrs. B.
Two cups flour, salt, three heaping teaspoonfuls bak- ing powder, one heaping tablespoonful lard. Rub smooth, then mix with a little cold water, roll out and bake in a quick oven.
OMELETTE.
One and a half pinls milk, three eggs, one tablespoonful flour, lump of butter; stir well and bake in quick oven; when well set it is done.
GERMAN PUFFS.
Four eggs, three cups milk, ten tablespoons flour, one teaspoon melted butter, one-half teaspoonful soda.
POP-OVERS.
Three eggs, one pint milk, piece of butter large as egg; warm the milk and butter; batter just a little stiff*. Hot oven, bake one-half hour. Have cups well greased and hot in a dripping pan.
IMPERIAL CORN BREAD.
Two heaping cups meal, one heaping cup flour, thr^e eggs, two cups milk, one tablespoonful of lard or butter, two tablespoonfuls sugar, two teaspoonfuls of yeast powder.
POP OVERS.— Mrs. C. Penwell.
Three eggs well beaten, three cups sifted flour, three cups of sweet milk, three teaspoonfuls sugar, one tea- spoonful salt, eggs to be added the very last thing. No soda. Bake in gem tins in a quick oven. This recipe will make eighteen.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., Silks, Velvets and Plushes.
Practical Cook Book.
MEATS.
VEAL SCALLOP.— Mrs. B.
Take the remains of a veal roast, chop fine, roll one- half dozen soda crackers fine. Put a layer of the meat in the bottom of a buttered dish, sprinkle with pepper and salt, then put a laj^er of cracker crumbs, then wet with milk, and put bits of butter on, then more meat, &;c. ; make very wet with the milk ; when the pan is filled, mix some powdered cracker with one egg, salt, and milk and spread over the top with bits of .butter, bake with the cover one-half hour, then take off" the cover an I let brown ten minutes. Any other kind of meat is good. Oyster scallop is made in same way.
FISH CHOWDER.— Mrs. H.
Cover bottom of pot with pork fat. Take any kind of firm fish (cod or bass is best) lay them over the pork, then strew over a large layer of chopped onions, one of potato, one of split Boston crackers, pepper and salt, another layer of fish, onions, potatoes, crackers, season- ing, and continue until the fish is all in. Dredge with flour, just cover the contents with water cook one-half hour. Take up the chowder, thicken the gravy by adding a tablespoonful of flour to a little butt(ir, stew ten minutes.
STEAK ROLL.
9 Two pounds of sirioin steak, pound well, season with butter, pepper and salt. Make a dressing as for Turkey, spread over the meat, roll and tie with string, season the outside roast, basting once in a while.
CODFISH HASH.
Pick up the fish, parboil, then chop it up with cold boiled potatoes, and fry in salt pork gravy.
Bennison^ Liebmann & Co., 1157 & 1159 Broadway* Oakland*
10 Practical Cook Book.
SMOKED HADDOCK.
Take one fish, boil one-half hour, remove the skin, and serve with butter or a drawn butter gravy.
CODFISH BALLS.
Parboil the fish, pick it up, mash a few potatoes, mix well with the fish, add butter, enough milk to moisten, then make in small cakes, dip in corn meal and fry in pork gravy.
POT ROAST.
For a small family take two pounds of beef, put in boiling water, cook till it begins to get tender, adding water a little at a time as it boils away. Season with pepper, salt and butter. Let the water boil away and fry the meat brown, not letting it burn, make a gravy of flour and water and butter, season, pour over the meat and serve.
CLAM POT-PIE.
Take fifty clams, wash, clean and boil in one quart of water; take out the clams when the shells open, add three quarts of water to the clam juice, and season with butter, pepper and salt to taste; when this boils add the clams and dough of raised biscuit, cover tight and boil one hour.
CHICKEN PIE.
Cook the chicken three-quarters done, season with butter, pepper and salt, crust, light puff paste, thicken the gravy and bake one hour.
HEAD CHEESE.
Take the ears, head, and feet of a hog, clean thor- oughly, and boil until very tender, with a little salt. When done take out and chop fine, season with salt, pepper, and sage to taste, put into moulds till cold, then slice and put in vinegar.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., Table Linen, Napkins, Etc>
Practical Cook Book. 11
FRICASSEED CHICKEN.
Take a piece of butter size of an egg, put in a cook- ing pot with two tablespoonfuls of flour. Let them melt and brown slightly. Cut up the chicken and cook in this gravy until tender; add chopped onion to the gravy if liked. Before serving add a little parsley.
SPICED BEEF.
Boil a shank of beef in as little water as will cover it until the meat falls from the bone, chop it fine, spice with cloves, pepper, salt, and summer savoiy; add enough of the liquor in which it was boiled to moisten well, press into moulds and when cold shce for use.
CHICKEN SALAD.
Take one chicken, boil tender with a small piece of salt pork, chop fine without the pork, add one head of chopped celery. For the dressing use the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs rubbed to a paste, add one fourth table- spoon of cayenne pepper, one teaspoon of black pepper, two tablespoons of prepared mustard, one gill of vine- gar, one-half cup melted butter. Pour this over the chicken and celery and stir well; chop the whites of two of the eggs with the chicken, slice the whites of the remaining two in rings, place on top the salad after it is in the dish ready for the table, and in each ring place a little sprig of the green top of the celery. If you can- not get celery use cabbage and season with celery essence.
OYSTER PIE.
Cover a deep plate with pufF paste; put an extra layer around the edge of the plate, and bake nicely. When quite done fill the pie with oysters ; season with pepper, salt and butter, dust over a little flour, and cover with a thin crust of pufi* paste. When the top crust is done, the oysters should be. Serve at once, as the crust soon absorbs the gravy.
^ennison, Liebmann & Co., the Leading; Dry Goods Hause.
12 Pkactical Cook Book.
BOILED CODFISH.
Soak the fish in lukewarm water over night, or sev- eral hours; use plenty of water, and change once or twice. /When wanted put into fresh water and set over the fire; let it come to a boil, or just simmer for thirty minutes; then take out the water, drain and serve with egg sauce, or with hard-boiled eggs sHced and laid over it, with cream poured over all. Beets should be served with salt fish.
CODFISH TOAST.
Shred the fish in fine pieces, and soak it in cold water until fresh; then drain it well and add to it, one table- spoonful of flour, half a teacupful of sweet cream if you have it, if not, a small piece of butter and a teacupful of milk ; season it well with pepper ; let it scald slowly, stirring it well. When taken from the fire add, after a moment, stirring rapidly, a well-beaten egg. ©Make a nice, moist toast, well seasoned, and pour the fish over it.
TO COOK DRIED CODFISH.
Soak as large a piece as you wish, over- night ; in the morning, cut it in small pieces, and dry with a cloth; dip the pieces in a batter of eggs and milk, or roll them in tiour, and fry them in lard or butter until they are brown on both sides.
Another way is, to soak a piece the same way; then boil a few minutes till tender, then butter and put cream over, and serve hot.
A DELICIOUS BEEFSTEAK.
Have your frying pan very hot, wipe the steak dry, place in it, and cover closely. Turn frequently, and keep covered. When done, add to the gravy one table- spoonful of hot cofiee, a good-sized lump of butter, salt and pepper to taste, pour over the steak, and serve hot. Add mushrooms if liked.
BennisoD, Liebmann & Co., Gloves, Laces and Hosiery.
Practical Cook Book. 15
ROAST BEEF.
The pieces for roasting are the sirloin and rib pieces. When roasted in an oven, dash a cup of boiling water over the meat; this checks the escape of the juices. Baste frequently with salt and water and the drippings. Allow about a quarter of an hour to the pound if you like the beef rare, more if you prefer it done. For gravy, remove the beef to a dish, skim the drippings, add a cup of boiling water, a teaspoonful of fiour stirred in cold water. Pepper and salt to taste. Serve with mustard or scraped hoi*seradish.
POTTED BEEF. Take ten pounds of the cheaper parts of beef, or the best if you like; boil until the meat comes from the bone; skim all out into your chopping bowl, remove the bones and gristly pieces, chop the meat fine, and add the gravy, of which their should be a quart; sea- son with salt, pepper, and a teaspoonful of powdered mace. Pack away in bowls, or any dishes you prefer. This slices nicely, and is good cold, or fried in batter.
HAM TOAST.
Chop some lean -tiam fine, put it in a pan with a little pepper, a lump of butter and two eggs beaten. When well warmed, spread on hot toast well buttered, and serve.
Pieces of cold beefsteak or roasts make a nice dish prepared in the same way, except omitting the eggs and using a little water. Also pieces of cold steak or roast may be chopped fine, water added, seasoned with salt and pc^pper, and thickened with a little flour to be used without toast.
SOUR HASH. ,
Take part of a calf's liver and the heart and boil until done. When cold chop fine, and make a gravy with the water in which it was boiled, and season with salt, pppper, butter, and a tablespoonful of vinegar.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., Silks, Velvets and Plushes.
14 Practical Cook Book.
SOUPS AND VEGETABLES.
TOMATO SOUPS.
Take six large tomatoes, pare and slice them, drop them in one pint of boiling water, and let them boil ten minutes; then add one-half teaspoon soda, one quart sweet milk, three rolled crackers, with butter, pepper And salt to the taste. Serve hot and eat with crackers.
VEGETABLE SOUP.
Take a beef soup bone and add one gallon boiling water. It should be boiled four hours at least. An hour before it is done add one carrot, two onions, a lit- tle cabbage, four good-sized potatoes, and a handful of rice. Vegetables to be pared and chopped or sliced. Salt should not be added to the soup until the meat is tender.
MACCARONI SOUP.
To a rich beef or other soup, in which there is no seasoning other than pepper or salt, add one-half pound of small pipe maccaroni: boil it in clear water until it is tender, then drain it and cut it in pieces about an inch long; boil it for fifteen minutes in the soup, and serve.
TO FRY EGG PLANT.
Remove the rind, cut into slices half an inch thick, sprinkle with salt, put the slices one upon another, and let stand several h(mi'S, if for breakfast, over night. Have a frying pan, with a liberal supply of hot laid, roll crackers very fine, beat two eggs to a froth, dip the slice into the egg and then into the cracker crumbs; fry until soft and of a light brown color, turning very frequently and watching closely to prevent burning. Th<3 cutting and salting some hours before cooking is important.
fiennison, Liebmann & Co., are 10 per ct. below S. F. Prices.
Practical Cook Book. 15
FRIED TOMATOES.
The following is considered by Pater Familias as one of the best breakfast dishes he t-an hav^e. Slice smooth green tomatoes as for pickles, let lie an half hour in salt and water, then dip in batter made with egg, milk and rolled cracker as for oysters, and fry in butter or sweet lard. When thoroughly cooked, cover in a dish until time to serve.
BAKED TOMATOES.
Cut the tomato in half. Place in a shallow dish, the cut side up. On a layer of tomato sprinkle a little salt, pepper, and suirar; cover with rolled ciacker or bread crumbs; then another layer of tomato, fee, until the dish is full. Put around so-ne small pieces of butter, and two spoons of water. Bake at least an hour, and if the dish is large, and the fire moderate, two hours is better.
EGG DUMPLINGS FOR SOUP.
To one-half pint of milk put two well-beaten eggs and as much wheat flour as will make a smooth, rather thick batter, free from lumps; drop this batter, a table- spoonful at a time, into boiling soup.
TOMATO SLAW.
One peck ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped fine, a half teacup of salt, half a tea.spoonfiil of black pepper, two lablesp'onfuls ground cloves, one tabfespoonl'ul all- spice, one tablespoonful cinnamon, three pounds biowm sugar. Boil over an hour, and then add three gills cider vinegar.
Bennison, Lietman & Co., 1157 & 1159 Broadway, Oakland.
16 Practical Cook Book.
PUDDINGS AND PIES.
BAKED INDIAN.
One quart milk, when boiled stir in a cup of corn meal and a little salt. When cooked, take off, sweeten with molasses, two-thirds cup of buttermilk, or sour milk, pinch of soda, butter. Bake three hours.
STEAMED FLOUR PUDDING.
Four eggs, three teaspooonfuls baking powder, one pint of sweet milk, flour to make batter like cake.
SAUCE FOR ABOVE.
Boiling water rich with butter and sugar, flour beat Qp in water.
BREAD PUDDING.— Mks. B.
Two cups stale bread crumbs soaked till soft in one quart of milk, two egg^, nutmeg to taste, two table- spoons of melted butter, one- fourth teaspoon of soda dissolved in hot water. Bake till well set.
ORANGE CUSTARD.— Mrs. B.
Slice one-half dozen oranges in a dish, and sprinkle sugar over them. Let it stand while you make the following custard which is to be poured over the oranges. One quart milk, three eggs, one cup sugar, three (able- spoons cornstarch wet with cold milk, essence of lemon. Whbii done poui^ over the oranges and let cool.
n.YM HONEY COMB PUDDING.— Mrs. H.
^' 'Ohe'cup chopped suet, one cup syrup, one cup sweet milk, three cups flour, one cup raisins, one teaspoon soda, salt. Steam three hours, eat with sauce.
.btiiilisiO ,Y/i?r ''OLK aJi '■ :^ '>0 — ,,,j> : ;r rl .aduaaoE Bennison, Liebmann & Co., the Leading: Dry Goods House.
Practical Cook. Book. 17
SPANISH CREAM.— Mrs. H.
Soak one-third box of gelatine in ona and a half p'nt of inilk two hours, then set on the stove and stir till nearly- boiling, beat one cup sugar with the yolks of three egrsfs, stir into the hot milk and gelatine, flavor with vanilla. When taken from the stove add the whites beaten stiff. Let cool for a long time.
SNOW PUDDING.— Miss E. B.
One-half box gelatine dissolved in a pint of boiling water, add two cups sugar, juice of two lemons, salt, strain the mixtures, when cold add whites of three eggs beaten stiff*. Mould this. A custard is very nice poured over this.
LEMON PUDDING.— Miss E. B.
Grate the rind of one large lemon into a pint of milk, add the well-beaten yolks of four eggs, and the beaten whites of two, pinch of salt. Bake in moderate oven, remove before it curdles. Beat whites of two eggs to stiff" froth, add small <mp of sugar, juice of one bjmon; spn^ad this over the custard, set in the oven till a light brown.
STEAMED PUDDING.— Mrs. Smith.
One cup chopped raisins, one cup suet, one cup molasses, one cup milk, one cup Indian meal, one cup flour, one teaspoon soda, little salt. Steam three hours.
RHUBARB PIE.
Stew the rhubarb aad strain throuofh a sieve, sweeten to taste and add one beaten egg for each pie. No upper crust.
PEACH PIE.
Fill a pudding dish with pared peaohes stones left in, swee'en to taste, add little water, and cover with puff paste. Delicious.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., are 10 per ct. below S. F. Prices.
18 Practical Cook Book.
LEMON PIE.— Mrs. H.
Four eggs, one and a half cup sugar, butter size of an egg, one-half cup of sweet railk, juice of two lemons. Stir the butter and sugar together with the yolks of the eggs, add the milk and lemon juice, stir well, then add the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Bake on a bot- tom crust. This makes two pies.
RAISIN PIE.
One pound raisins seeded and chopped fine, one pound white sugar, one lemon. Boil lemon peel in one pint of water till tender, then skim it out, pour the same water over the raisins, grate the lemon and add. Bake with an upper crust.
COCOANUT PIE.
Grate one cocoanut, four eggs, two cups sugar, one- lialf cup butter, enough milk for two pies, mix sugar and butter to a cream, add other ingredients.
GRATED APPLE PIE.
Three grated apples, two eggs, one lemon grated,, sugar to taste, and milk and water to the consistency of squabh pie.
SUNDAY PUDDING.
Three pints milk boiling hot, six eggs, four even tablet^poonf uls cornstarch, ( ne-half cup sugar, pinch of salt. Beat the starch, yolks and sugar well together, and add to the boiling milk. Let them boil u)*, stir- ring all the time in a vessel set in boiling water. When it thickens, pour into a dish, and cover with the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff* froth, and mixed with a teacupful of powdered sugar. Brown in the oven. Flavor the pudding with lemon or anything you choose. To be eaten cold.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., the leading Dry Goods House-
Practical Cook Book. 19
PINEAPPLE PIE.
Pare and grate a large pineapple, and to every tea- <;upful of pineapple add one-halt" teacup of fine white fsugar, turn the apples and sugar into a dish lined with pastry. Bake thirty minutes. '
PUFF PUDDING.
One egg. yolk and white beaten separately, one quart milk, twelve table^poonfuls flour. Bake fifteen or twenty minutes and eat with sugar and butter sauce.
PIE CRUST.
For each pie take a medium sized teacup of sifted ilour, one heaping tablespoonful of lard, and about a quar er of a teaspoonful of salt; mix the lard but slightly through the flour, and use the col lest water to be had. Much de|en<ls upon the manner of mixing pie ciust. Put it to^^ether with as little knea<ling as possible, and do not have it too stiff or too wet. A more delicate taste is given by having the shortening half butter. Bear on but lightly while rolling it.
STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE.
The following are the proportions, the quantity depends upon the size of your family, and their capacity for shortcake. One quart flour, made into soda biscuit dough, divide and roll two layers that will just fit a jelly cake pan; lay in one, spread a little butter over, lay on the other lightly, and set it to bake in the oven. Me mwhile get your berries ready, three pints, (more if you can aflbrd it) hulled, and if very large, sliced once or twice, (do n >t mash them, it spoils the looks) sugar plentifully. When the cake is done, lift off" the top layer, lay the other on the plate, butter liberally, spread on half the berries, put on the other layer in^side out, butter, and spread on the rest of the berries. Serve hot. (N'ot bad to take.) This is a good dessert with almost any kind of small fruit.
Bennison, Liebmaim & Co., Table Linen, Napkins, Etc-
20 Practical Cook Book.
DELICIOUS APPLE PUDDING.
Pare and chop fine six: tart apples, Imtter a piidding- dish, put in a layer half an inch thick of grated bread; add bits of butt t; then a layer of ciiopped apples, with sugar an- 1 nutmeg; repeat until the di^h is full; pour over the whole a teacup of cold water, and bake half an hour.
CAKES.
In making cake the sugar and butter should always be beaten to a ci-eain first, then before adding the eggs, beat the yolks and whites separately first and then together. Beat well after adding each ingredient and especially after all are together except the flour and baking powder, which should be added last. The flour should be well sifted and the baking powder mixed thoroughly through the dry flour.
LINCOLN CAKE.
Two cups sugar, one-half cup butter, one cup sweet milk, three cups flour, two eggs, two teaspoonfuls yeast powder, one teaspoonful lemon.
JUMBLES.— Mrs. Hoyt.
One ctip butter two cups sugar, one cup sweet milk, six cups flour, three eggs. Roll thin, cut like a ring, and dust over with white of egg and sift white sugar over them.
SPONGE CAKE.
One cup sugar, one cup flour, three eggs, one tea- poonful baking powder, one teaspoouful essence lemons or any o her flavoring.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., are 10 per ct. below S. F. Prices.
Peactical Cook Book. 21
COCOANUT CAKE.
Two cups powdered sui^ar, one-half cup butter, one cup milk, three cups flour, three eggs, two teaspoonfuls yeast powder. Bake as for jelly cake.
FILLING.
One grated cocoanut, to one-half of this add whites of thi'ee eggs, and one cup of powdered sugar. Lay this between the lavers. Mix witli tlie other half of orated cocoanut four tablespoonfu's powdered sugar, and str^w thickly on the top of cake.
CRULLERS.— Mrs. Hoyt.
One cup sugar, one cup milk, two eggs, one table- spoonful lard, three small teaspoonfuls yeast powder, one teaspoonful lemon, and flour enough to make a soft dough. Fry in hot lard.
^FRUIT CAKE.
One pound each, sugar, buttei- and flour, eight egg^, two pounds raisins, one pound currants, one-fourth poun I citron, one tablespoon molasses, one cup sour milk, one teaspoon soda, spices of all kinds, bake two hotirs in a modeiate oven. This will keep a year.
CREAM CAKE.— Mrs. Hoyt.
Two cups powdered sugar, two-thirds cup 'butter, one-half cup milk, three cups flour, four eggs, two tea- spoonfuls yeast powder. Bake in layers as for jelly cake, and spi-ead between them the following mixture:
One-half pint milk, two small teaspoonfuls cornstarch, one egg, one teaspoonful vanilla, one-half cup sugar. Heat the milk to boiling and stir in the cornstarch, wet with a little cold milk. Lay out a little and mix grad- ually with the beaten egg and sugar; return to the rest of the custard and boil, stirring constantly until quite thick. Let it cool before you season, and spread on the cake. Season the icing also with vanilla.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co , 1157 & 1159 Broadway, Oakland
22 Practical Cook Book.
SPONGE GINGERBREAD.
One cup sour milk, one cup molasses, one-half cup butter, one and a lialf teaspoonfuls saleratus, one great spoonful ginger, flour to make it thick as pound cake. Put I he bucte?-, molasses and gfinofer to^fether, and make them quite warm, then add >he milk, flour and salera- tus, and bake as soon as possible.
SNOW CAKE.
One cup flour, one and a half cups sugar, whites ten egg^, one teaspoon cream tartar, one-half teaspoon soda.
PLAIN CAKE.
One cup sugar, two and a half tablespoons melted butter, one cup milk, one and a half teaspoons baking powder, one pint flour, one egg; beat yolk and white separately.
PUFF CAKE.
Two cups sugar, one cup milk,, one-half cup butter, three cups (scant) flour, three teaspoons baking powder, whites six eggs; flavor with rose or lemon. Sdr sugar and butter to a cream, add milk and flour, then whites of eggs^
WHITE MOUNTAIN CAKE.
Two eggs, one cup sugar, one-half cup butter, one- half cup milk, two c ips flour, one and a half teaspoons baking powder; Flavor to taste.
SPONGE CAKE.— Mrss Dearborn.
One cup of sugar, one cup of flour, six eggs. Beat the sugar and yolks of the eggs till very light, then stir in lightly the whites of the eggs, which have been beaten to a stiff froth, and the flour. Bake slowly till done.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., Gloves, Laces and Hosiery.
Practical Cook Book. 23
CREAM SPONGE CAKE.— Miss M. E. Dearborn.
One cup of flour, one cup of su^rar, one-half cup of cream, two eggs, one-half teaspoon of cream tartar, one- fourth teaspoon of soda.
ICE CREAM CAKE.— Miss Dearborn.
Two cups of sugar, three- fourths of a cup of butter, one cup of milk, two cups of flour, one cup of cornstarch, whites of seven eggs, two teaspoons of baking powder. Bake in layers.
COFFEE CAKE.— Mrs. Ziegenbein.
Set sponge as for bread. After it is raised add one cup and a half of sugar, one-half cup of butter, four eggs, one teaspoon cinnamon, and a very little lemon. Knead it well with your hands, but not to be made as stiff as for bread. Roll out the dough half an inch thick and place in a buttered pan, and set to rise in a warm place. When ready for the oven butter the top and sprinkle on sugar and cinnamon. Bake fifteen minutes.
RAISIN CAKE.— Mrs. Ziegenbein.
Made same as coflTee cake with the addition of raisins and currants, and to be made in loaves, and baked an hour. -
CHIN TONG CAKE.— Miss E. Bradway.
Two tablespoons butter, one teaspoon yeast powder, one-half teaspoon lemon, one cup sugar, one and one- half cups of flour, and three eggs.
Mrs. R's. SPONGE CAKE.— Miss Bradway.
Six eggs, one and one-half cups of sugar, two cups of sifted flour, one- half cup of cold water, one teaspoon cream tartar, one-half teaspoon soda, and a little salt.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., Silks, Velvets and Plushes.
24 Peactical Cook Book.
Mrs. R's. PLAIN CAKE.— Miss Bradway.
Four eggs, one cup butter, two cups sugar, one cup milk, four teaspoons yeast powder, four cups flour. To be eaten fresh.
MARY'S ORANGE CAKE.— Miss Bradway.
One cup sugar, one-half cup of butter, one-half cup cold water or milk, two even cups sifted flour, one tea- spoon cream tartar, one-half teaspoon soda, three eggs. Use the whites of two for frosting. Juice and pulp of one orange. Bake in three jelly tins. Make a fllling of the whites of the two eggs, two-thirds of a cup of sugar, and the grated peel of the orange. Spread each layer with this frosting. Very fine.
PEARL CAKE.— Miss E. Bradway. -
One cup sugar, one cup flour, one-half cup cornstarch, one-half cup sweet milk, two tablespoons butter, one- half teaspoon cream-tartar, one-fourth teaspoon soda, whites of three effors, flavor.
CORNSTARCH CAKE.— Mrs. Smith.
Whites of five eggs, one cup of butter, two cups of sugar, one cup of swett milk, one cup corn starch, two cups of flour, teaspoon cream-tartar, one-half teaspoon soda.
ORANGE JELLY CAKE.— Mrs. Smith.
One-third cup of butter, one cup of sugar, one-fourth cup sweet milk one and a half cups flour. Whites of five eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Grate the peel of one orange. Bake in four jelly tins.
FILLING.
Take the white of one egg, beat until stifT, mix with pulverized sugar and juice of one orange.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co.> Gloves, Laces and Hosiery^
Practical Cook Book. 25^
COCOANUT CAKE.— Mrs. Smith.
One cup butter, three cups su^ar, four cups flour, four eggs, two teaspoons cream tartar, one teaspoon soda,., one cup sweet milk, one grated cocoanut.
CRFJAM CAKE.— Miss M. E. Dearborn.
Two cups sugar, one-half cup of butter, one cup of milk, four eggs, two and a half cups ot flour, two heap- ing teaspoons baking powder.
CREAM.
One pint of milk, boiling hot, one egg, one-half cup of sugar, one-half cup of flour m.xed smooth with a little cold milk, a little salt, and stir into the boilings milk. Stir well until it thickens. When* cool flavor and spread between the layers.
CHOCOLATE CAKE.— Miss Dearborn.
Two cups of sugar, one-half cup of butter, one cup of milk, three cups of flour, four eggs, reserving the whites of two for frosting, two teaspoons baking powder,. Bake in layers.
FILLING AND FROSTING.
One cup of sugar boiled in two tabL\spfions of water till it blisters, stir in the whites of two e^^fs beaten, three tablespoons of grated (unsweetened) chocolate, and one teaspoon of vanilla. Place between layers and over top and sides of cake.
COOKIES.— Miss Dearborn.
Two cups sugar, one cup butter, two eggs, a pinch of soda in two tablespoons of water (hot). Rub butter and sugar well together; add egg>i and other ingredients; add flour to roll very thin ; bake quickly.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., Silks, Velvets and Plushes..
26 Practical Cook Book.
kSPONGE cake.— Mrs. C. F. Baker.
Three eggs, one cup sugar, one cup flour, one tea- spoon baking powder, flavor.
SAND TARTS.— Miss Dearborn.
One cup of butter, one cup sugar, one-half cup of sour milk, one egg, one-half teaspoon of soda. Leave out the white of the egg, beat and just before baking brush over the cakes, and sprinkle a little sugar on top. Flour to roll out thin.
WEDDING CAKE.— Mrs. Hoyt.
Three cups sugar, two cups butter, one cup milk, f'^ur cups flour, five eggs, three teaspoons yeast powder. Mix as usual and stir in at the last, one-half pound currants well washed and dredged, one-half pound raisins seeded, chopped fine and floured, a handful of citron sliced fine, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves, about a tablespoon of each. Bake in a slow, steady oven two hours.
COFFEE CAKE.— Mrs. Hoyt.
Five cups of flour, one cup butter, one cup coflee, one cup molassrts, one cup sugar, one cup raisins, one tea- spoon soda, one teaspoon cloves, one tablespoon cinna- mon, one tablespoon allspice, one nutmeg.
GINGER CAKE.— Mrs. Hoyt.
One cup molasses, one-half cup butter or lard, one- half cup suf^^ar, one cup sour milk, one egg, two tea- spoons ginger, two small teaspoons soda.
CORNSTARCH CAKE.— Mrs. Hoyt.
One cup su2rar, one-half cup milk, two eggs, one-half cup cornstarch, one cup flour, two teaspoons yeast powder, a piece of butter the size of an egg, and essence of lemon.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co.. the Leading Dry Goods House*
Practical Cook Book. 27
GINGER CAKE.— Mrs. N. B. Hoyt.
One cup molasses, one-half cnp sugar, one egg, one cup water, one tablespoon ginger, one-half cup shorten- ing. Flour to roll, one teaspoon soda.
COOKIES.— Mrs. N. B. Hoyt.
Two cups sugar, one egg, one cup butter, one-half cup sour milk, nutmeg, soda, mix soft as you can.
MARBLE CAKE.— Mrs. N. B. Hoyt.
One cup butter (scant), two cups sugar, three cups flour, three egg^i, one cup sweet milk, two teaspoons yeast powder. • When the cake is mixed take out a small cup of the batter and stir int > it; one-half cup of syrup, one teaspoon cloves, one teaspoon nufcnieg and a little more flour. Put in pan alternately, more light than dark battt r.
BANANA CAKE.— Miss E. Bradway.
One tablespoon butter (heaping some), two cups sugar, one cup milk, two and i hree-fourths cups flour, two teaspoons baking? powder, one egg. Bake in four jelly tins. To the whites of three eggs take nine heaping tab'espoons sugar for icing. Spread each layer with this icing and sliced bananas. It will take six, or three very large bananas.
PUSSIE'S doughnuts.— Miss Bradway.
Two eggs, one cup sugar, nearly two tablespoons melted shortening, heaping tea-poon cream tartar, one- half teaspoon soda, one cup sweet milk, nutmeg. Very soft.
WHITE CAKE.
Three cups sugar, one and a fourth cups butter, one cup sweet milk, three cups flour, one cup cornstarch, whites of twelve eggs, one teaspoon baking powder; mix powder and starch into the flour; flavor to taste.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., Table Linen* Napkins, Etc*^
"28 Practical Cook Cook.
PORK CAKE.— Mks. Smith.
One pound salt pork, chopped fine, one pint boiling water, two pounds raisins, one pound currants, two cups brown, sugar, one cup molasses, one tablespoon soda, five teaspoons cinnamon, two cloves, one nutmeg ^nd one lemon.
CHOCOLATE CAKE.
Two cups sugar, one cup butter, yolks of five eggs, "whites of two eggs, one cup milk, three and a half cups iflour, one and a half teaspoons baking powder. Bake in jelly cake tins.
Filling for the cake. Whites of three eggs, one and a half cups sugai*, three tablespoons chocolate, one tea- spoon vanilla; beat well together, and spread between the layers and on top of the cake.
COCOANUT PUFFS.
Whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth, six table- spoons sugar, one tablespoon cornstarch, one-half of a half pound box cocoanut. Bake on buttered papers in dripping pan, in a slow oven.
GREEN CORN CAKE.
Mix one pint grated green corn with three tables- spoons milk, one cup flour, one-half cup melted butter,
two eggs.
FRIED CAKES.
One coffee cup sugar, two eggs, one cup sour milk, four tablespoonfuls melted butter or lard, one-half nut- meg or teasjxjonful cinnamon, one teaspoonful soda; mix liglitly, roll out and cut in rings or small round cakes, fry in hot lard until a nice brown. Sweet milk and two tt-aspoonfuls baking powder, make them very nice, espe-ially in suujraer.
3ennison, Liebmann & Co., 1167 & 1159 Broadway, Oakland.
Practical Cook Book. - 29
FRITTERS.
One cup sour milk, one e^g (well beaten), one tea- spoonful soda, one teaspoonful of cream or other short- ening, flour to make a thick batter, drop a tablespoon- ful in hot lard and cook till done.
GINGER SNAPS.
Two cup5i of New Orleans molasses, one-half cup but- ter, one-half cup lard, one teaspoonful soda, dissolved in a little hot water, two teaspoonfuls ginger, one-half cup of cold water; mix soft and roll thin,
CRISP GINGER SNAPS.
One pint common molasses, one cup lard, a little salt, three tablespoonfuls vin<'gar. Heat all together, and after removing from the stove add one even tablespoon- ful soda, and one tablespoonful jjinger. When cool mix in enough flour to make it stifl"; roll very thin, bake quick.
SUGAR COOKIES.— Mrs. H.
One cup of butter, two cups of brown sugar, one egg, four large spoonfuls sour milk, one teaspoonful soda. Nutmeg or other spice.
SPICE CAKE.~Mrs. Latimer.
Five egg^y three and a fourth cups of floui-, two cups of sugar, one cup of butter, two t- aspoonfuls baking powder, two-thiids cup of sweet milk. When ready to pour into the pan, take a cup of the batter and mix with it one-half nutmeg, grated, two teaspoonfuls cin- namon, two teaspoonfuls allspice, and stir thoioughly. After pouring a poition of the batter into the pan drop in with a teaspoon some of the spiced batter. Con- tinue this till all is in the pan, and bake in a moderate oven.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., the Leading Dry Goods House,
30 Practical Cook Book.
JELLY CAKE.
One cup sugar, two eggs, one cup and one heaping tablespoonful flour, four tablespoont'uLs water, one anii one-half teaspoonfuls baking powder. Bake in layers.
FILLING.
One pint milk, two and a half tablespoonfuls sugar, two tablespoonfuls cornstarch, white of one egg (well beaten). Bring the milk to the boiling point, then add the other ingredients. To be cooled before placmg between the layers of cake. Before spreading on cake add vanilla and a little salt.
GINGER CAKE.— Mrs. H.
One cup molasses, one-half cup sugar, one-half cup butter or lard, one cup sour nn\k, one vgg, two tea- spoonfuls ginger, two teaspoonfuls soda and a little yeast powder.
COFFEE CAKE.
Five cups of flour, one cup butter, one cup coffee, one cup molasses, one cup sugar, one cup rai>ins, one teaspoonful soda, tablespoonful of cloves, allspice, cinna- mon and nutmeg.
CREAM PUFFS.
Boil one pint of milk with one-half pound of butter; mix three-fourths pound flonr with a little cold water, and stir into the boiling mixture. Let it cool and add a little salt and ten <ggs. Drop the mixture on tinsi and bake in a hot o\ en twenty minutes When cold, split and fill with the following mixture; four eggs, two cups sugar, one cup of flour, beat well and stir into one quart of milk while boiling.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., Table Linen, Napkins, Etc,
Practical Cook Book. 31
CORNSTARCH CAKE.
Whites of three eggs, one cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter, one-half cup of cornstarch, one-half cup milk, one cup Hour, one and a half teaspoonfuls baking powder.
PLAIN CAKE.
Three small cups sugar, two thirds cup butter, four cups sifted flour, three eggs, one cup milk, two spoon- fuls yeast powder. Flavor to suit the taste.
ANGEL CAKE.
The whites of eleven eggs, one tumbler of powdered sugar, one tumbler of flour, one teaspoonful of baking pow<ler, flavor to taste with bitter almond or orange, a pinch of salt. Sift the flour five times, the flfth time sifting in the baking powder. Sft the sugai* three times. Beat the egga to a stifl' froth. In mixing beat as little as possible. Bake twenty minutes in a mod- erate oven.
GINGER CAKE.
One cup molasses, one-half cup sugar, one egg, one teaspoonful so* la, one cup water, one-half cup of short- ening, one tablespoonful of ginger.
ICE CREAM.— Mrs. H.
One quart milk, two eggs, one smaU tablespoon corn- starch, four tablespoons sugar, one .-poonful essence of lemon. Make custard and boil the day before using it.
MRS. F'S. ICE CREAM.— Miss E. Bradway.
Custard, one-half box gelatine, pint milk, three oggs well beaten, one cup sugar, just let it come to a boil. Tht^n whip part of the two quarts of pure cream, add two cups sugar, whites four eggs well beaten, the cus- tard, and flavor to taste. Very tine indeed.
Bennison, Liebman & Co., 1167 & 1159 Broadway, Oakland.
82 Practical Cook Book.
ROCK CREAM.— Mrs. Latimer.
Wash one cup of the best rice, and boil slowly luitil quite soft, iu milk ; adil white sugar to ta^te, and pile it on a dish. Scatter jelly or thick preserves over it. Beat the whites of five eggs to a stiff froth; add sugar and flavoring. When well b( atcn add a spoonful of rich cream and diop it on the rice imitating the form of a rock of snow.
Bannison, Liebmann & Co., the Leadine: Dry Goods House
Practical Cook Book. 33
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., are 10 per ct. below S. F. Fricea.
34 Practical Cook Book.
B3nais3a, Liebmina & Co., tha Leading Dry Goods Housd-
Practical Cook Book. 35
Bennison, Liebmann & Co.^ Table Linen, Kapkins, Etc.
Practical Cook Book.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., are 10 ver ct. below S. F. Prices.
Practical Cook Book. 37
PICKLES, ICINGS, JELLIES AND PRESERVES.
BOILED FROSTING.
Two cups sugar, water to moisten, boil until candie'I. Beat the whites of two egujs to a stitt" froth, stir in grad- ually and beat until cold.
PLAIN ICING.— Miss Dearborn.
To the whites of four cgiifs use one pound of suprar, and lemon, vanilla or any other flavoring you prefer.
BOILED FROSTING.— Miss Dearborx.
One large cup sugar, two tahlespoonfuls water, whites of two eggs Boil the water and sugar until clear. Beat the whites to a stiff froth and add to the sugar, as soon as taken off' the stove. Beat very hard and briskly till cool, then flavor to taste.
CANNED PEARS.
One-half pound sugar to one pound fruit. Lot them <jook slowly three hours, or until they become red, then seal in glass jars as usual.
CURRANT JELLY.
Place the currants (on the stove) in a stone jar; put the jar in a kettle of hot water; let the currants boil, then strain through a flannel bag. To every pint of juice add one pound of white sugar which has been heated very hot in the oven: when the juice is again boiling hot add the hot sugar, and, as s^x)n as it is melted, strain again through the jelly bag, into bowls or tutiiblei-s; let it stand in the sun three or four days, then cover each bowl tightly and it will keep for years.
BennisoD, Liebmann & Co , 1157 & 1169 Broadway, Oakland
38 Practical Cook Book.
CRAB APPLE JELLY.
Cut the apples in halves; place them in a stone jar, set in a kettle of water over a islow tii"e for «ight or ten hours; let them remain in the jar over night, then take them out press and strain out the juice, and sugar and cook as for currant j^Aly. It will be a bright red, and delicious jelly.
GREEN GOOSEBERRIES (To Bottle).
Remove the stems and blows and allow one-half pound sugar to one pound of berries. If you wish them whole, you will need a little water. Put a layer of sugar and gooseberries, and so on, and then add water nearly to cover them; but not quite. Put the fruit into the bottles by the tea cupful. Take them from the kettle solid in the cup, but allow some of the boiling juice, or they will chill. Have the bottle full of the berries, and then cover with whatever quantity of the boiling juice is necessary. If you want them made into jam, let them stew until a pulp is formed, and use no water. Ripe gooseberries an; better made into a jam; a little less sugar than for the green ones is required.
SPICED CURRANTS.
Five pounds ripe currants picked from the stems, washed and drained ; add one pint vinegar, four pounds sugar, two tablespoonfuls cinnamon, one tablespoonful cloves. Boil slowly two hours, stirring almost con- stantly to keep from burning; put up the same as grape catsup.
TOMATO MARMALADE.
One peck ripe tomatoes, one pint sugar, spice to taste. Prepare the tomatoes as for the table, then put into a kettle with the sugar, spice^ etc., cook slowly until quite thick; put in a jar and pour over a little vinegar. Very nice to serve with moat.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., Oloves, Laces and Hosiery.
Practical Cook Book. 39
SPICED APPLES (Very Nice).
Six pounds sweet apples, three pounds sugar, one pint, vinegar, three tablespoonfuls each of cloves and cinnamon. The apples should he pare I, cored and cut in quai'ters, then parr)oiled in a weak vinegar. Take them out carefully and drain throui^h a colander, pour- ing back into the kettle whatever juice is drained off* then add the sui;ar and a pint of strong vinegar; boil and skim before adding the spices, which should be ground, but not very line, an<l sewed in thin muslin bags. Return the apples to the kettle, let tliem cook until they look clear and soft; put in a gallon jar and let stand twenty-four hours, then drain the juice all off again and boil it down to a thick syrup.
Double this quantity fills a two gallon jar and keeps two years if the syrup is thick and rich. Tie over the jar a thick covering of cloth and paper. If there is not juice enough to the apples, more vinegar and sugar cani be added.
RASPBERRY SHRUB.
One quart vinegar to three quarts berries; place in a- jar for one night, then add one pound sugar to each pint of the liquid, and boil half an hour. When cool bottle, seal and put in a cool place.
PICKLED WALNUTS AND BUTTERNUTS.
Gather the nuts when the head of a pin will pierce them easily; put them in a brine for twelve days, changing the brine twice in that time. For one hun- dred nuts allow four quarts of vinegar; to each quart add one ounce of whole peppers, one ounce ginger, one- half ounce each of bruised nutmeg and whole allspice,, one tablespoonful of scraped horseradish, one head garlic, and pour it boiling hot over the nuts. In twenty-four hours drain off the vinegar and pour over the nuts boil- ing hot. After the nuts are used, the liquor may be boiled, strained and bottled, to use as a pickle.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co.t Silks, Velvets and Plushes.
40 Practical Cook Book.
GRAPE CATSUP.
Take eleven pounds of grapes, squeeze the pulps from the ekin; scald the pulp until the seeds will .-eparat© easily, then work through the colander and throw away the seeds; place the pulp and skins in a porcelain kettle with one quart of strong vinegar, six pounds sugar, two tablespoonfuls cinnamon, one tablespoonful each of cloves and allspice. Boil one and a half hours, stirring frequently to keep from burning. This quan- tity will make one gallon when done and is very nice with meatus of any kind. Place in a s«one jar with a cloth and paper tied over. Will keep any length of time. Ripe gooseberries may be prepared in the same way.
PICKLED PLUMS OR CHERRIES.
Seven pounds fruit, four pounds brown sugar, one quart vinegar, four ounces cinnamon, two ounces cloves, unground. Put plums or cherries and spice in a jar, scald vinegar and sugar and pour over them; repeat three mornings.
PICKLED GRAPES.
Fill the jar with grapes on the stem, sprinkling cloves, allspice and cinnamon between. To one gallon vinegar use three pounds sugar; heat vinegar, add sugar, and pour over the fruit warm, but not hot.
CHOW-CHOW.— Mrs. Hoyt.
One gallon chopped cabbage, one gallon green toma- toes, five tablespoonfuls gruund mustard, throe gills mustard seed, two tablespoonfuls ground pepper, two tablespoonfuls cloves, two tablespoonfuls allspice, one gill salt, one pint chopped onions, one pint sugar, three quarts of vinegar if strong, one gallon if weak, six green peppers, two heads celery, one bottle horseradish. Boil the mixture slowly for two hours, when it will become thick.
Bexmison, Liebmann & Co.» Gloves, Laces and Hosiery.
Practical Cook Book. 41
CHOW-CHOW.
One peck green tomatoes, sliced into a jar and cov- ered with water, to which add one pint salt, and let stand twenty-four hours; pour ofi* the salt water, add fresh water and let stand an hour or two to drain, then chop the tomatoes with twelve poppers and six onions; put all in a bottle with a pint of vinegar; cover with water, let them come to a scald, stirring while over the fire; drain, put into ajar, add one cup horseradish, one cup of cloves and allspice ground together, one cup white mustard seed, one cup brown sugar, stir well and cover with vinegar.
TOMATO CATSUP.
To one peck tomatoes add one dozen red peppers; boil one hour, then strain through a colander and bieve. Add four tablespoonfiils each of salt and black pepper, two tablespoonfuls allspice, four teaspoonfuls mustard, one-half pint chopped onions. Boil all until thoroughly cooked, then add vinegar to make it of a sutiicient con- sistency.
PLUM CATSUP.
To six pounds tart plums pitted; add three pounds sugar and one pint vinegar, boil until soft, add cinna- mon, mace, cloves, pepper, and nutmeg to taste, then boil all until thick Do not strain.
SPICED CURRANTS.
Seven pounds currants, three pounds sugar, one scant quart vinegar, one tablespoonful each of mixed spices. Put the currants on in the kettle, and mash them a little to start the juice to keep from scorching. Before the sugar is pw in there may be a pint or more of juice dipped off for jelly, then add the sugar, vinegar and spices and boil about an hour.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., Silks, Velvets and Plushes.
42 Practical Cook Book.
PICKLED PEACHES.
To seven pounds (i fruit, take four pounds sugar, orfe pint vinegar, one ounce allspice, one ounce cinna- mon, one ounce cloves; put the spire in a bag. Cook until done. Figs are very nice pickled in the same way.
SPICED CURRANTS.
Five pounds currants, three pounds sugar, one table- spoonful each of mixed spices, one pint vinegar, one teaspoonful salt.
CHILI SAUCE.— No. 1.
Twenty ripe tomatoes, ten onions, ten green peppers, thiee tablespoonfuls salt, ten cups vinegar, five heaping tablespoonfuls sugar. Choj) onions and peppers together and cook one hour. Add spices if you like.
ANOTHER CHILI SAUCE.
Eighteen large ripe tomatoes, three large onions, two green peppers, two teaspoonfuls each of salt, allspice, cinnamon, cloves and ginger, one nutmeg, four heaping tea>poonfuls sugar, four cups vinegar; cut the toma- toes in pieces, chop the onions and peppers. Put all the ingredients together, except the tomatoes, and cook until the onions and peppers are tender, then add the tomatoes and boil at least an hour longer. Treat Chili Sauce No. 1, in the same way.
TOMATO CATSUP.
To one gallon of juice add four tablespoons of salt, four tablespoons of black pepper, one tablespoon of caytnne pepper, four tablespoons of mustard, two table- spoons of cloves, three tablespoons of allspice, one table- spoon of cinnamon, one teacup of sugar, one quart of vinegar. Boil three or four hours, and cook tomatoes well.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co.. the Leading Dry Goods Honse*
Practical Cook Book. 43
Bennison/Liebmann & Co., Table Linen, Napkins, Etc
44 Practical Cook Cook.
Benciscn, lidbmain & Cj.» 1157 & 1159 Broadway* Oakland.
Practical Cook Book. 45
Bennison, liebmann & Co., the Leading Dry Goods House,
46 Practical Cook Book.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., Table Liiei> Napkinp, Etc.
Practical Cook Book. 47
MISCELLANEOUS
RECIPE FOR CLEANING GOODS.
Five ounces ammonia, four ounces castile soap (best white), one and a half ounce spirits, one-half ounce glycerine, one ounce ether. Dissolve the soap in four quarts of soft water. Add all the ingredients. Keep corktid tight when not using. How to use. Shake thoroughly. Wet the sponge and apply it to the soiled goods, rubbing well. Then take a dry sponge or cloth and rub until dry, or nearly so.
ANTIDOTES FOR POISON.
Soda, salt, vinegar, chalk, raw eggs, mustard, sweet oil, soap and milk are all remedies. If the poison is an alkali, vinegar is the remedy. Freely drinking new milk, continuing drinking even when the stomach returns the milk, will destroy even arsenic poisoning. If sulphuric or oxalic acid; swallow a quantity of chalk. If corrosive sublimate; whites of raw eggs stirred up and swallowed one after another. Mustard stirred in water and freely drank will cause vomiting and destroy poison. Also any kind of oil, as olive, linseed or lard oil. If phosphorus, as on matches; a tablespoonful of magne- sia, and then gum-arabic water. If opium or laudanum ; a strong emetic or a tablespoonful of mustard in a glass of warm water, or one-half teaspoonful of pow'dered alum in as little water or coffee as will carry it down. Repeat the dose. If strychnine, act quickly; give emetic as above, or a heavy dose of ipecac. Opium poison needs also friction, fanning, shaking, cold water on the head and all efforts to arouse the patient.
Bennison, Liebmau & Co., 1157 & 1159 Broadway, Oakland.
4
48 Practical Cook Book.
CURE FOR SICK HEADACHE.
When the first syraptoms appear, take a teaspoonfu^ lemon juice clear, fifteen minutes before each meal, and at bedtime. Follow this up, until all symptoms are past, taking no other medicine, and you will soon be freed from your periodical nuisance.
TO PREVENT THE HAIR FROM FALLING OUT.
Strong sage tea applied cold once a day, bru^shing well two or three times a day with a poft brush, is a sure remedy when the roots are not destroyed. *
TO DRIVE AWAY ANTS.
Get at the druggist's ten cents, worth of corrosive sublimate, and with a brush or feather, paint the edges of shelves. This should not be put where food will touch it; for it is poison, but it will surely drive the ants away if put in their path. Repeat if necessary.
TOOTH PASTE.
Charcoal and honey, mixed together and used as a dentifrice, will whiten the teeth with a few applications.
WASHING.
If a small quantity of borax be put in the suds, and the clothes allowed to soak about one-half hour they will be found to require much less rubbing, and no boiling, unless very dirty.
TO DESTROY ROACHES, ETC.
Buy cheap red wafers, and scatter them about, and cockroaches will eat them and be destroyed. The roots of black hellebore scattered in their haunts is an infallible remedy. Paris green is another.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., the Leading Dry Goods House
Practical Cook Book. 49
FURNITURE VARNISH. ^
Four ounces alcohol, one-half ounce linseed oil, one- half ounce balsam fir, one-half ounce sulphuric ether. Put alcohol and balsam fir together until dissolved, then add oil and ether.
SURE CURE FOR FELONS.— Mrs. Bradway.
Spanish Fly blister. Apply fresh plaster every day.
DYSPEPTIC COFFEE.
Take a pint of corn meal and mix with molasses enough to wet it ; put in a bake pan and brown the same as coffee. Put half meal and half coff*ee, which makes the coffee excellent.
BREAD CRUMBS.
Put slices of stale bread in a slow oven till they are perfectly dried up. Break them in pieces, and reduce them to a coarse powder with a rolling-pin ; sift them and they are ready for use. They are better than cracker crumbs; the latter, when powdered, are too floury. /
COLOGNE.
One and a half pints alcohol, one and a half drachms bergamot, one drachm lemon, one-half drachm rosemary, one and a half drachms of garden lavender, musk and rose water as you like.
CREAM CANDY.— Mrs. Read.
To three cups of granulated sugar take a lump butter the size of a walnut and three tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Put in enough water to melt the sugar, and boil until it will harden in cold water. Put in buttered platters until cool enough to pull. Then pull it until it is white and creamy.
——— — . »
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., are 10 per ct. below S. F. Prices.
60 Practical Cook Book.
BLACKBERRY AND WINE CORDIAL.
To one-half bushel blackberries, well mashed, add one-fourth pound allspice and two ounces each of cinna- mon and cloves, pulverize well, mix, and boil slowly until properly done, strain or squeeze the juice through homespun or flannel, and add to each pint of the juice one pound loaf sugar. Boil again for some time take it ofi", and while cooling add one-half gallon best cognac brandy
Dose. — For an adult one-half gill to a gill ; foi a child, a teaspoonful or more according to age.
MOLASSES CANDY.
One cup sugar, one cup molasses, one tablespoonful eich of butter and vinegar; boil until it will stiffen in c:)ld water.
SUGAR TAFFY.
Two pounds white coffee sugar, one coffee cup hot water, one-half cup vinegar, flavor to taste; boil slowly until thick.
HOW TO WEIGH WITHOUT SCALES.
Allowance should le made for extraordinary dryness or excessive moisture of the articles needed: —
Wheat flour, 1 It), is 1 qt.
Indian meal 1 lb. is 1 qt.
Butter when soft 1 tl). is 1 qt.
Loaf sugai*, broken 1 tl >. is 1 qt.
White sugar, powdeied, . . 1 tt). 1 oz. arc 1 qt.
Best brown sugar 1 tt). 2 • z. are 1 qt.
Eggs 10 eggs are 1 tb.
Flour 8 qts. are 1 pk.
Floui* 4 pks. are 1 bushel
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., Gloves, Laces and Hosiery.
Practical Cook Book. 51
LIQUIDS, ETC.
16 large tablespoonfuls are J pt.
8 '' " "... i gill.
4 " " " J gill.
2 gills are J pt.
2 pints are 1 qt.
4 quarts are 1 gal.
A comtnon sized tumbler holds | pt.
A common sized wine glass is J gill.
A teacup is 1 gill.
A large wine glass is 2 oz.
A tablespoon is h oz.
60 drops equal 1 teaspoonful.
4 teaspoonfuls equal 1 tablespoonful.
WASHING FLUID.— Mrs. H.
One and a half pound lime. (slaked), one pound sal- soda, three gallons of water. Mix and allow it to stand until settled. Pour into glass bottles.
Directions for use. — Soak the clothes about one hour in clean water; wring them, soap them thoroughly, and they are ready to be boiled. Use one cupful of the fluid for a boilcrful of clothes. The water must be hot when the clotht-s are put in. Put the fluid in the water before the clothes. Wash them through the water in which they are boiled, rinse well.
Beimison, Liebmann & Co., 1157 & 1159 Broadway, Oakland
62 Practical Cook Book,
Benuison, Liebmann & Co., are 10 per ct. below S. F. Prices.
Practical Cook Book. 63
Bennison, Liebmaun & Co,, the Leading: Dry Goods House,
54 Practical GooK Book.
Bennison, Liebmann & Ck)., Table Linen, Napkins, Etc.,
Practical Cook Book. 65
Bennison, liebmann & Co., Table Linen, Napkins, Etc
56 Practical Cook Cook.
Bennison, Liebmann & Co., 1157 & 1159 Broadway, Oakland.
JAPANESE BAZAAR,
1766 Broadway, neir 14th St., Oalilancl,
LiGpiBlS WMl AIB Cf EIOSITIIS
FANCY GOODS, FANS, ETC.
Cliiiia and Japan Teas,
IVORY SETS, CUFF BUTTONS AND ORNAMENTS. CHU PAWN & CO. .
M. S. BEEL» Prop.
1003 Broadway, Second Door above lOth St., Oakland, Cal.
IMPORTERS OP
Foreign i Domestic Dry I Fancy Goods
TRY OUK
Red House Kid Gloves.
BUY BUTTER, BUY COFFEE,
BUY AURORA SWEEPERS,
BUY EVERYTHING
IN THE
Grrocery XiiiZLe
AT
FISH & GO'S.,
Eighth and Market Streets, Oakland. IVo Liquors or Tobacco.
T. H. HENDERSON,
J^GrENT
RENTON COAL CO.
WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DEALER IN
Foreign and Domestic Coals,
COKE, WOOD, CHARCOAL, ETC.
41 J Tenth St., Oakland,
JAS. M. TORREY. W. W. WHITMAN. J. T .GARDINER.
Torrey, Whitman & Cardiner,
GROCERS.
CHOICE TEAS and COFFEES.
461 and 463 Eleventh St.,
Near Broadway, Oaklanil, Cat,
F, H. BUTEAU. J. H. MOUNT,
MOUNT ifc BUTEAU,
DEALERS IN
Poultry, Game, Fruit & Produce
stalls i, 3 and 5, City Market.
-il^, 417^ and 41Q Twelltli Ht.,
ESTABLISHED [N CALIFORNIA OVER THIRTY YEARS.
CHRISTIAN SCHREIBER
Manufacturer and Dealer in Rich, Medium and Low Priced
Furniture, Bedding, Carpets, Oil Cloths,
Lace Curiam, Window Shades, Mattings. 1064 and 1066 Broadway, Oakland.
BART MORGAN. G. H. CARLOCK.
BART MORGAN & CO.,
DETJG-G-ISTS
DEALERS IN
PURE^DRUGS, FAMILY MEDICINES, PERFUMERIES,
TOILET SOAPS, ETC,
Prescriptions Carefully Compounded at all Hours Market St. Station, Oakland, Cat.
C. A. STUBBS'
Penetrating Liniment
In introducing this GREAT REMEDY FOR PAIN, and tell- ing the public what this Liniment will curp, we do not claim it will cure all diseases he r to mankind. It is only the great demand for this W(nderful PANACEA FOR PAIN, and our knowledge of how many thousands are suffering from Rheumatism, Neuralgia, Sprains, Cuts and Bruises, etc., prompts us to say that no well reg- ulated family should be without it.
TESTIIMON-IALS.
STUBBS' LINIMENT cured my LAME BACK in two days.
Peter Coonby, Oakland.
STUBBS' LINIMENT is the best I ever used for man or beast.
J. W. Dougherty, Lodi, CaL
STUBBS' LINIMENT cured me of a severe attack of RHEUMATISM.
Mrs. C, McCall, Oakland,
STUBBS' LINIMENT has no equal as a speedy relief for NEURALGIA.
L. McDermot, Oakland.
We do not wish to humbug the people with bogus certificates, but we can furnisli hundreds of living certificates in the neighbor- hood of our place of business.
C. A. STUBBS'
Penetrating Liniment
IS PREPARED ONLY BY
J. T. HALL & CO.,
1 45 1 San Pablo Avenue, Oakland.
And is Kept for Sale by
ALL DRUGGISTS ON THE PACIFIC COAST. Price 50cts and $I.OO.
FOR THE
COMPLEXION
A New and Elejpant Toilet Preparation for Imparting^
a Beautiful and Youthful Appearance to the
Complexion, Giving that
WHITENESS, TRANSPARENCY AND COLOR
So Highly Esteemed by All.
It cannot be detected tvhen on, and is absolutely free from White JLead or other mineral poisons*
It is prepared both white and flesh tinted, and is delicately perfumed, and is invaluable as a dentrifice, imparting a delicious fragrance to the breath, as well as preserving the teeth.
lE'X^ZOE!, I^II^T-sr OEn^TS.
For Sa/e by all Druggists.
Herald of Truth,
OAKLAND, CALIFORNIA.
A Semi-Monthly Religious Newspaper. Price, $1 .25 per Year.
Onl y Baptist Publico tion
Of its Size, and Frequency of Publication, On the Pacific Coast.
Full of Original Articles, Able Editorials, Church News, Topics of the Day, Literary Items, etc., etc.
G. S. ABBOTT, D. D., Editor and Proprietor. Office, 1062 Washington Street,
Oakland, Cal,
DaGifiG* )
ress^DuWisliing
•House,
rsiif isi. iiwiii4?iii, JwaiMSi
The, Most Coinjflete Pvintitia and, I'tibli siting House on the Coast.
B©®M a:
9l®B FMIKTPIK©
Of E\ery Description.
Our Office is thoroughly Furnished with type, cuts, borders, etc., of modern design, and we feel confident of giving satisfaction in Cards, Bill Heads, Price Lists, Catalogues, or anything in this line.
MUSIC PBINTING- A SPECIALTY.
-^Ic Mmk SiBilil to lE Mi lemliit^ ^^
Blank Books, Ruled and Made Up to Order.
Old Books Re-Bound.
Designing and €NGi^AvmG. Electrotyping and Stereotyping
Done in the Best Manner and at Short Notice.
Orders by Mail or Express Promptly Attended to. Estimates furnished on application.
Address all orders to
PACIFIC PRESS,
Oakland, Cat,
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
^.^iZX^ ^ ^^A.€^:Y
Mrs. De Grafs Cook Book
MRS. BELLE DE GRAF
Editor of the Cooking Infor- mation Page Syndicated in Fifty Pacific Coast News- papers.
Director: Domestic Science, California Prune y Apricot Growers Association,
Instructor: U. S. Naval Re- serves, New York City. For many years in charge of the Domestic Science Depart- ment of the Sperry Flour Company.
PUBLISHED BY
H. S. CROCKER CO., INC.
SAN FRANCISCO, CALIF.
Copyright 1922
CHAPTER ONE
MEASUREMENTS
CULINARY TERMS AND METHODS
COOKING PROCESSES
EVERYDAY MISTAKES IN COOKING
HEAT REGULATION AND TEMPERATURES
MENU BUILDING
FOOD VALUE OF FAT
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK f 13
Measurements
HE first essentials for uniform results in cookery are knowledge of the proper methods to use and accuracy of measurements. All cook books and tested recipes call for measuring cups and level measurements, and flour is sifted once before measuring. This will insure uniform results, providing the oven heat and the methods used are correct. Most failures in cooking can be traced to careless measuring, not following the recipe accurately, or lack of proper heat regulation.
Experience in teaching housewives the fundamentals of cookery have brought out the information that com- paratively few women provide themselves with standard half pint measuring cups. All tested recipes call for a cup of this type. For flour mixtures the ordinary house- hold cup is not satisfactory, as it seldom holds a half pint. The baking powder, salt, etc., will be out of proportion to the other ingredients if a standard measuring cup is not used. It may not mean failure, but it will mean indifferent results. Careless measuring of salt will render a dish most unpleasant, if not entirely useless. Too much baking powder will cause a cake to be dry and coarse in texture. My own experience as a teacher has shown me that the average housewife does not measure ingredients carefully, and to be accurate in measurements is one of the first steps to success. Divided recipes often fail because not care- fully divided.
A standard measuring cup holds just one-half pint of liquid or half a pound of butter or sugar, or one-fourth pound of flour. A level cup of any material is all the cup will hold. Fats should be packed solid or weighed. The cups are marked to indicate halves, fourths, and thirds. Kitchen equipment should include at least two of these cups.
Measuring spoons come in sets containing tablespoons, half tablespoon, teaspoon, half and quarter teaspoons. The standard tablespoon or teaspoon may be used, but be sure measurements are level.
[14] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Culinary Terms and Methods
The term mixing is a general one, and may mean stir- ring, beating, kneading, or folding and cutting, according to the dish under preparation and the quality and texture of the materials to be used. Stirring is the most general method used. Liquids are stirred while cooking; thin batters, such as pancakes, are mixed by stirring with a spoon. Cereals, jams, sauces, etc., are all mixed by stirring.
Beating is the method used to lighten eggs, mix cakes, whip cream, etc. Beating may be done with a rotary egg beater, fork, egg whip or perforated wooden spoon. If using an egg whip, fork, or wooden spoon, the mixture is beaten to inclose a quantity of air. When using a rotary egg beater the ingredients are well mixed and light, but not nearly so much air is beaten into the mixture as when using the egg whip.
Folding and cutting are usually applied to the manner in which eggs are added to cake, muffin, or waffle batters, souffles or pufFy omelets. Sponge cakes made without baking powder depend upon the air beaten into the egg whites for lightness and texture, the air beaten into the eggs expanding with the heat of the oven.
This rule also applies to souffles, prune whip, and pufFy omelets. But unless extreme lightness is desired, eggs do not need to be beaten separately for muffin or waffle batters. By folding and cutting, eggs are added carefully to the mixture, the batter being turned over the beaten eggs until all have been folded in. If the eggs are stirred or beaten into the mixture, the result will not be as spongy and light. When the white of eggs and cream are beaten light and then added to a mixture, they must be carefully folded into the ingredients; otherwise it is use- less to beat them light; stirring or beating them into the mixture will undo all the previous beating. This method seems to be one of the least understood.
Kneading is applied to the manner in which stiff doughs are handled. This term usually refers to yeast mixtures. After the ingredients have been mixed, the dough is turned
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [15]
out on the molding board and kneaded. This is accom- plished by slightly flouring the board and hands, then one half the dough is folded over the other half, pressing down with the ball of the hand.
The dough is turned constantly, and in this manner a new portion of dough is brought uppermost to fold over each time. This process is continued until the dough is smooth and elastic. Baking powder or soda raised doughs should be kneaded very lightly, if at all; otherwise they will not be light.
Rolling is quite diflFerent from all other processes, and is used in making pies, biscuits, cookies, doughnuts, rolls, tarts, etc. Pastry should be rolled and handled quickly, and should always be rolled in one direction, and the rolling done as lightly as possible.
Eggs and crumbs are used for croquettes, fish and other foods cooked in deep fat. The food to be fried is first dipped in fine bread or cracker crumbs, then in eggs, and in the crumbs a second time. The egg should be slightly beaten and one tablespoon of cold water added; or the egg white slightly beaten may be used instead of the whole egg.
Molding is used for charlotte russe, blanc mange, and gelatine mixtures. It also applies to certain types of frozen desserts. The mixture is poured into a wet mold or form, chilled, and then turned into the serving dish. The mold should stand perfectly level during the chilling, and when ready to remove, run a sharp knife or spatula around the edge of the form, turn over on a flat serving dish, shake the mold or tap lightly on the bottom, when the food should unmold. The form should always be thoroughly wet and cold when the mixture is poured into it. Dipping the mold in warm water for a second is another method of unmolding gelatine mixtures, or dipping in cold water to unmold frozen puddings. Warm water will soften the geletine mixture just enough to unmold it easily, and the cold water is so much warmer than the frozen mixture, it will have the same eflPect.
16] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Cooking Processes
Boiling
Every housewife should possess a thorough knowledge of the various methods of applying heat to food. There is, for instance, a vast difference between boiling and sim- mering, and yet much good food has been completely ruined in the cooking because this difference was not understood.
Boiling is the most generally used method of cooking; it is also one of the simplest and most economical. It means cooking the food in water at 212° Fahrenheit. Foods when properly boiled are both wholesome and digestible.
There is also an impression that food will cook faster if the water boils violently. This is not the case, however, for as soon as water bubbles, it has reached the boiling point and it does not become any hotter because it boils violently. There is a waste of fuel in unnecessarily fast boiling, particularly when gas, electricity, or oil is used. When the boiling point has once been reached, it can easily be maintained with a reduced heat.
Simmering
Simmering food is keeping the liquid under the boiling point — a long, slow cooking process. This method is used for meat soup stocks and for making tender the cheaper, tough cuts of meat and old fowls. Boiling meat or fowl only toughens it; keeping at the simmering point will gradually make the meat tender and palatable.
If soup stock is boiled, the stock will lack flavor, for boiling seals the surface, and if continued, keeps the juices in the meat; simmering will draw out the juices necessary in a good soup stock.
The term "boiled meat" is really incorrect. While the meat is plunged into boiling water to seal the surface and keep the juices from escaping, it is cooked at the simmer- ing point.
The housekeeper who learns the value of simmering will always be able to serve well cooked meats at comparatively
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [17]
small cost, for the less tender cuts of meat are just as high in food value as the more expensive parts.
Steaming
By this method food is cooked in the vapor arising from boiling water, and it is the most gradual of all methods. The water under the food must be kept constantly boiling and the steamer containing the food should be closely covered so as to retain all the steam. This gradual heat renders many foods more digestible than when boiled. None of the nutriment is lost, as when food is immersed in water. Steamed foods retain all their food value and flavor.
Stewing
Stewing is cooking food in a small amount of liquid at the simmering point, closely covered, until it becomes tender. Stewed meat or chicken is a sort of combination meat and soup, for the gravy is always served as part of the dish. Food is cut in small pieces for stewing, and the cooking takes less time than for one large piece of meat or a whole fowl. Stewing is an economical method of cook- ing, because the cheaper tough cuts of meat may be used. All the nutriment is retained, and the slow cooking renders the food entirely digestible.
Braising
Braising is a combination of stewing and roasting, and is used for meats — usually the less tender roasts. The meat is cooked with less liquid than for boiling, and is cooked in one solid piece. Braising may be accomplished on top of the fire, using a heavy kettle, closely covered, or in the oven in a covered pan. The meat is first browned in drippings, or other fat; then a small quantity of liquid is added, which is slowly reduced to a rich gravy. Occasional basting is required if the meat is to be juicy and fine in flavor. The toughest cut of meat will become tender by this method. When meat is braised in an iron kettle over the fire, it is frequently called a pot roast.
Roasting
Roasting really means cooking over hot coals, or in hot
[18] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
ashes. Oven roasting is the more modern method of cooking meats, although the open fire and hot coals are still preferred by many cooks.
The oven should be hot when the meat is put into it, and kept hot for about fifteen minutes. By that time the surface of the meat should be seared to prevent the escape of the juices. The heat should then be reduced and the cooking continued. Frequent basting is essential, as it prevents the meat becoming dry.
Broiling or Grilling
Broiling is one of the quickest methods of cooking foods. It is really a form of roasting, but is used for meat with greater surface but seldom more than two inches in thickness — often less. Red-hot coals or the well-heated broiler of a gas or electric range are required. The object is to sear over both sides as quickly as possible without burning, in order to retain the rich juices. After searing, the heat should be reduced and the cooking continued as long as desired, turning once or twice if beef, chops, or chicken are being broiled.
Planking
Planking meat or fish is practically a form of broiling. The food is first seared on both sides in the broiler, then finished on the heated plank in a hot oven. The wood imparts a pleasing flavor, and the plank itself offers an opportunity for attractive garnishes.
Baking
Baking is accomplished in the oven with various degrees of heat. The difi^erence between baking and broiling food is that one is cooked in a dry heat, and the other is cooked in moist heat.
Frying
There are three methods of frying foods: immersing in deep, hot fat; sauteing, or cooking in a small amount of fat in a frying pan; or pan broiling, which is done in a very hot pan without fat, but turning frequently to avoid burning.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [19]
Everyday Mistakes in Cooking
When strong flavored vegetables, such as cabbage, cauliflower, or onions, lose their color, are rather strong in flavor and throw off^ an unpleasant odor while cooking, the vegetable has not been put to cook in boiling water and the kettle in which it was cooked has been covered. Never start vegetables cooking in water under the boiling point. For the strong flavored vegetables use a quantity of water, but for the green, more delicate flavored ones use little water; add salt before the vegetables and cook in an un- covered kettle and they will retain their full flavor and bright green color. When a quantity of water is used to cook such vegetables as peas, spinach, string beans, etc., much of the valuable properties of the food are lost and thrown away. Many vegetables are overcooked until the best flavor is entirely destroyed. Cabbage is an example; it is usually cooked until limp and heavy, and while it may taste palatable, is most indigestible. Cabbage cooks very quickly and is done when tender.
Mayonnaise dressing separates if the oil is added too quickly or if all the ingredients are not of the same temper- ature.
A teaspoonful of vinegar or lemon juice added to the egg yolks before any of the oil is used will aid in keeping the dressing smooth. If the dressing should curdle add it very slowly to another egg yolk.
French dressing should be thick. This is easily accom- plished by putting all the ingredients in a small covered fruit jar and shaking until the mixture thickens.
Fried foods, as croquettes, fritters, doughnuts, etc., be- come soaked with fat if the oil or lard they are fried in was not sufficiently heated. The temperature of the fat should be tested before any food is fried, and this should be re- peated each time food is added, as the fat usually cools somewhat with each addition of cold food. Heat fat until a faint trace of smoke can be seen over the surface, then test. It should never be heated until the kitchen is filled with an unpleasant haze of smoke. If properly done, deep
[20] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
fat frying will be more satisfactory and food will absorb less fat than when cooked in a frying pan.
Sauces and gravies have a layer of fat on top when more fat is used than flour. The flour and fat should be in equal quantities; allow from 1 to 2 tablespoonfuls of each to a cupful of liquid, according to the thickness desired for the sauce.
Omelets are tough when cooked too rapidly. Dump- lings are heavy if the liquid is not kept constantly boiling and if the cover of the kettle does not fit closely or has been removed before the dumplings are cooked. They should be dropped into rapidly boihng Hquid, covered closely and cooked 12 minutes before cover is removed.
True sponge cakes (those made without baking powder) are coarse in texture and dry if eggs are not carefully beaten with a whip egg beater to inclose all the air possible, then baked in a very moderate oven.
Baking powder biscuits, muffins and all quick breakfast breads require a hot oven or they will not be light.
Popover and cream puflFs fall when they have not been baked long enough.
Cakes that rise in the center and crack have been baked in too hot an oven or contain too much flour.
Cakes that are soggy in the center have not been thoroughly baked. The center is the last part to bake, and before removing from the oven touch the center lightly; if the finger makes an imprint the cake is not baked sufficiently; if it springs back the cake is done.
To prevent milk from separating when making a cream of tomato soup, heat milk and add the thickening. Com- bine milk and tomatoes just before serving.
Boiled or baked custards that have curdled have been cooked too fast or too long. A boiled custard that has curdled may be redeemed by pouring the mixture imme- diately into a cold bowl and beating until smooth with a rotary egg beater. It will never be quite so creamy, how- ever. Baked custard and all forms of custard puddings should be set in a pan of hot water to bake. This will usually prevent too rapid cooking. The water is kept below the boiling point.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [21]
Fruit cake is light in color if baked too rapidly; it is also apt to be bitter.
Cereals should be cooked in boiling water. They should cook directly over the fire for 5 minutes; then cook over hot water (in a double boiler) for the time required. Cereal cannot be completely cooked directly over the flame, as it soon thickens and then will burn. The starch requires cooking to be digestible, and cooking over hot water is the only method whereby it is possible to cook cereal suffi- ciently.
These are only a few suggestions, and yet the success of cookery depends much upon such details, unimportant as they seem.
[22] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Oven Regulation
The importance of oven regulation cannot be over- estimated. Good food can easily be completely ruined in baking. A tender, juicy roast can be changed into a tough, dry piece of meat. Perfectly made pastry may become tough and soggy in the baking. Breakfast breads will be light or heavy, depending upon the oven heat. All this has been realized by many stove manufacturers, and de- vices have been installed which will guide the housewife in the operation of the oven. Tables of temperatures refer to a thermometer placed inside the oven, as near the center as possible. These figures cannot always be followed ex- actly, with the attachments placed in oven doors, etc. But a very little study will soon enable the operator to know just what the indicator should register for the differ- ent heats. For example, biscuits require a hot oven, 450 degrees Fahrenheit. This would mean the degrees of heat registered by a thermometer placed in the oven. A thermometer placed on the oven door would be affected by the colder air of the room, so it would probably be necessary to allow the indicator to reach 500 degrees Fahrenheit. This can readily be determined after a few trials. For these attachments the table of temperatures will only serve as a guide. For those who have no oven regulator, and who experience difficulty in managing the oven, I would suggest purchasing an oven thermometer. It will soon pay for itself in the saving of food, will give the inexperienced housewife more confidence, and enable her to attempt dishes she formerly felt were impossible.
A gas oven should not be lighted until just before it is to be used, depending upon how hot an oven is desired. With two burners lighted, 8 to 10 minutes should make the oven very hot, and 5 to 6 minutes is sufficient for a medium heat. Of course, this will vary somewhat, depending on the type of range and the quality and pressure of the gas.
All food materials are poor conductors of heat, and it takes time for the heat to penetrate. The length of time and temperature will depend upon the size and thickness
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [23]
of the food. A cake baked in a brick-shaped pan — pro- ducing a cake like a loaf of bread, high and narrow — will take twice as long to bake as the same cake baked in a shallow pan. The brick-shaped loaf also requires much more skill to bake than does the cake baked in a shallow pan. In baking flour mixtures, the larger the mass the lower the temperature must be in order to have the heat penetrate to the center before a crust has been formed. If a cake is placed in too hot an oven, it forms a crust before it has risen sufficiently. This affects the texture of the cake and produces a cake high in the center and thin on the edges. It can readily be seen that it is neces- sary to overbake the cake at the edges in order to bake the center. This will mean a waste, because the edges will be either burned or so crisp and hard it must be removed.
Thin loaves of bread or cake and small pieces of meat need much less time for cooking, because the heat pene- trates quickly. Mixtures containing much sugar or molasses burn easily. Foods containing a large proportion of eggs require a low temperature, or they will become tough. An oven filled with food from which a quantity of steam is being given oflF requires more heat than when only one small dish of food is being baked.
When roasting meat, the careful housewife will plan to utilize the heat for other foods, too — potatoes, pudding, or even vegetables. If the meat is to be broiled, then advantage should be taken of the hot oven, having bis- cuits, cornbread, or a shortcake. A little study will work out all these problems and lessen both the fuel bills and labor.
Most housewives use too hot an oven, particularly when gas is used. One must bear in mind that if the gas is left burning high, the oven heat will increase very rapidly. After the oven has reached the heat desired — hot, medium, or slow — turn the gas down until just a small flame is visible. The oven will then maintain an even heat. Of course, it will be necessary to vary this rule somewhat, depending upon the size and quantity of the food and how long it is to be baked. Very few foods require a hot oven for any length of time. A tender roast of meat needs a hot oven to cause it to brown at once, so as to form a
[24] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
crust which will keep the juices from escaping. As soon as this crust is formed (10 to 15 minutes), the heat should be reduced and only a medium oven is necessary for the remainder of the cooking. Biscuits require a hot oven for the entire time of baking — about 18 minutes for the medium-sized ones. All other breakfast breads need a fairly hot oven. Cakes need only a medium oven, and the richer the cake batter, the slower the mixture should bake.
Wood and coal ranges are regulated in about the same manner, the oven being heated to the right temperature beforehand and adding more fuel in small quantities only as required to keep an even heat.
To test the oven without a thermometer, take a piece of white paper. Place in the oven after it has been heated 10 minutes, reducing the heat, if using gas. If the paper bums black in 5 minutes, the oven is very hot; if it burns a deep brown, it is hot. For the medium oven the paper should be a golden brown in 5 minutes. For a slow oven it should barely turn the most delicate brown in 5 minutes.
All of these tests need a little study, and each person will have to work out their own problem, but these guides are an aid in regulating the oven.
Oven Temperatures
Reduce Enter at and keep Deg. F. Deg. F.
Roast meats 450 360
Fish 400 360
White bread (yeast) 425 350
Cookies 350 350
Entire wheat bread 360 340
Pastry 425 425
Breakfast breads 425 400
Ginger breads 350 300
Cake 350 300
Sponge cake 320 300
Custard 325 300 ,
These temperatures are for gas stoves, and should be lowered about 50 deg. F. for a wood and coal range.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [25]
Menu Building
Planning meals day after day is one of the most difficult tasks for the housewife, and this particular branch of the housekeeping system needs as much skill and judgment as the preparation and cooking of foods. With an almost unlimited variety of foods to choose from, the housewife should know how to select those foods which will prove nutritious and give the greatest return of energy to the body for the money she has to spend. Wise econoniy demands that foods should be so combined that there will be no waste of either material or energy.
In order to plan foods wisely, the housewife should understand how the various foods differ in nutritive values. The foods selected depend largely upon climate and season. In localities where the summer months are warm, foods which would be very acceptable in winter would prove anything but appetizing served on a hot day.
A generous amount of fat and starch may be served when the weather is cold, but these must be avoided during the summer, green salads, jellied soups, and light cold desserts or fruits taking their places.
Dishes containing the food principles in the same pro- portion should not be served together. A well-balanced meal contains neither too much protein, starch, sugar, or fat.
To meet this requirement, the housewife must have some knowledge of food values. The substances found in foods have been divided into five classes, called food principles. These are water, fat, mineral matter, starch and sugar (called carbohydrates), and protein. Scarcely any food is made up of any one of these food principles, almost all containing several in combination. Most of the fat is obtained in butter, olive oil, other oils, and fat of meats, etc. The use of fat to the body is to give energy and heat. If more fat is taken than is required for im- mediate use, it is stored in the body ready to use when sufficient fat has not been consumed.
Mineral matter is found in most of the vegetables, and in all fruits; also in meat and milk. In fact, nearly all
[26] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
foods contain some mineral salts. As a rule this require- ment is taken care of in the diet of the average adult, but food for growing children should contain a quantity of mineral matter.
Sugar and starch comes under one heading, as starch is changed into sugar in the process of digestion. These foods supply heat and energy to the body, and the amount necessary for an individual will depend largely upon the kind of work he does. For heavy, muscular labor and for active, growing children, more starch and sugar are re- quired than for the clerk, student, or elderly person.
Protein is the most important food principle, and the foremost protein foods are meat, fish, eggs, milk, cheese, and most varieties of nuts. There are a few vegetables rich in protein as well as starch. These are peas, beans, and lentils. When planning a meal with a limited serv- ing of meat, as when using left-overs, any one of these vegetables will supply the necessary protein. Beans, cooked with some fat, may entirely take the place of meat.
If the menu is rich in starch, select a vegetable contain- ing a high percentage of water. Do not serve two dishes at one meal where a cream sauce has been used — for example, a creamed soup and a creamed vegetable, or creamed fish or meat and creamed vegetable or soup. Never serve strong flavored vegetables together, such as onions, cauliflower, cabbage, turnips, or parsnips. Do not have rice, macaroni, or potatoes served at one meal.
A green salad should be served with a heavy dinner. A hearty salad of fish or meat, combined with mayonnaise dressing, supplies the main course at luncheon or supper, but is much too heavy for a dinner where meat and vegetables are served. With a main dish of macaroni and cheese, prepared with a cream sauce (a dish rich in protein and starch), such vegetables as spinach, a green salad, or tomatoes, cooked or raw, will prove appetizing, while any of the beans, dried or green, would make the meal too heavy.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [27]
The following offer some suggestions in menu building:
I
Roast Beef, Franconia Potatoes
Yorkshire Pudding
Creamed Carrots
Lettuce and Tomato Salad
French Dressing
Prune Whip, Custard Sauce
Coffee
II
Cream of Tomato Soup
Fried Tenderloin of Sole
Tartar Sauce
Duchess Potatoes, String Beans
Cucumber Salad
Thousand Island Dressing
Chocolate Blanc Mange
Coffee
III
Vegetable Soup
Breaded Veal Cutlets
Tomato Sauce
Potatoes O'Brien, Sugared Beets
Strawberries and Cream
Drop Cookies
IV
Fruit Cocktail
Lamb Chops
Macaroni and Cheese
Combination Salad
French Dressing
Caramel Custard
Coffee
28] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Food Value of Fat
Fat is one of the most important foods, as it is the greatest source of reserve energy. It is also required to lu- bricate the body and when taken in reasonable quantities is easily digested by persons in normal health. Starch is digested mainly in the mouth; protein (lean meat, eggs, cheese, fish) in the stomach; fats are changed but little until they reach the small intestine, then they are divided into tiny portions and are carried to the blood. Fats rank in digestibility as follows: first butter and cream, then olive oil; other vegetable oils such as cottonseed, corn and peanut oil; oleomargarine, beef fat and last the various pork fats. Margarines are used as butter substitutes and rank with butter in fuel value in proportion to fat content. But butter contains the valuable fat soluble vitamines so necessary to growth, especially of children. Margarines do not possess this quality, so are not as desirable to use in children's diet, although the adult may use margarine in place of butter, as the diet for the normal grown person will mclude these vitamines in other foods.
Nature has taught us to take fats in combination with other foods, as it is more palatable in that form. We spread butter on bread, or steak, and add it to boiled vegetables, potatoes, etc., or cut with an acid we pour oils over lettuce. Anything which aids in the division of the oil, helps in its digestion and assimilation. From this it would seem that pastry might not be indigestible. But as already stated starch is digested mainly in the mouth, and if the starch or flour in pastry be mixed with layers of fat, how can the saliva permeate through these layers and digest the starch.? Well made, light flaky pastry can be eaten in moderation without causing indigestion, but pastry should not be served too frequently.
When using fat for cooking do not allow it to become over-heated. Fats heated to the smoking point become decomposed; when such fat is eaten it can be an irritation which produces indigestion. The temperature of difi^erent fats vary. Butter when heated to the point when it bubbles and foams is about the heat of boihng water. If
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [29J
heated beyond the bubbling point, it is considerably hotter than the boiling point of water. If fat bubbles when heated, there is water present and it is the water which is boiling; when the fat ceases to boil the water has been evaporated and the fat is ready to use. Since fat when over-cooked is very unwholesome, it is essential to know how to use this important food so that it will be beneficial and not a detriment by daily use.
As fats have more than twice the energy value of the other food principles, there is no reason to question their general wholesomeness. The housewife will need to consider how much and in what form fats should be given to her family. Only a certain amount is needed for im- mediate use in the body, the excess consumed being stored for future use. Butter, cream and quantities of whole milk are the best fats for children, and foods cooked in hot fat should not be given children at all.
How to Render Fat
Remove all skin and membrane. Put leaf lard or beef suet through the food chopper then place in the upper part of a double boiler and set over boiling water. This is a quick method and the fat will remain white. A very good combination is to use 1 part leaf lard to 2 parts beef suet. When the fat is rendered drain through a fine sieve or cheese cloth and set aside to cool. When cold but still in liquid form beat with a whip egg beater until the fat is firm and white. This mixture if beaten in this manner does not become tallowy and hard. If lard is not liked use 3^ corn oil. This fat can be used as a shortening for pastry or biscuit doughs or for frying.
CHAPTER TWO
BEVERAGES— HOT AND COLD FRUITS GARNISHES APPETIZERS
[32] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK. BOOK
Composition of Tea
XCEPT for the sugar and cream that may be taken with it, tea possesses no nutritive qualities. It is somewhat stimulating and very mildly exhila- rating. The stimulating principle, theine, and the essential oil, which gives fragrance, are the desirable elements. Tannin, a bitter astringent substance, is the undesirable element. The problem in making tea is to bring out the stimulating qualities and fragrant oil, and to avoid the tannin. This can only be accomplished by pouring freshly boiling water over the tea for five minutes. Water under the boiling point will not develop the flavor, and if the leaves remain in the water over five minutes, the tannin is apparent. If the leaves are boiled, tannin will be extracted in quantity.
Making of Tea
By freshly boiling water is meant water freshly drawn and boiled at once. Using a tea ball is one of the best methods to make tea. It can be attached to the cover or nozzle of the tea pot by the chain, and at the end of five minutes, be withdrawn. Scald the pot before setting away, and again before using. The proper proportion of tea will vary with the quality and taste. Usually one teaspoonful will be ample for each cup of freshly boiled water. Earthenware, china, silver, or aluminum are all satisfactory materials for a tea pot.
Coffee
Cofl^ee has no food value except when milk and sugar are used. Tannin is also present in coffee, but in less quantity than in tea, and is not extracted so readily as from the more delicate tea leaves. When roasting, the beans throw off^ moisture and develop flavor. Coffee also possesses a mildly stimulating effect, due to caffeine and the essential oil. To make good coffee requires a pure brand of coffee and a perfectly clean coffee pot, free from discolorations.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [33]
To Make Coflfee in a Coffee Pot
Allow 1 tablespoon of medium ground coffee for each cup of boiling water. Heat the pot, add coffee, then pour over the boiling water; set over the fire, bring to the boiling point, and remove from the fire. Let stand in a warm place for 5 minutes. Add }/i cup of cold water to make the coffee clear. When made by this method, coffee contains a minimum amount of caffeine and tannin.
Percolator Coffee
The old fashioned coffee pot has been replaced by the more modern percolator. For this method of coffee making, the beans should be ground very fine. Allow 1 tablespoonful of the finely ground coffee for each cupful of water used. Set over the fire and let percolate about 5 minutes, according to the strength desired. Hot or cold water may be used.
Filtered Coffee
This method of making coffee is preferred by many persons. It requires a special pot, and full directions for making are furnished with each pot. The essentials are a heated pot and boiling water.
Cocoa and Chocolate
Theobromine is the stimulating element in cocoa beans, and is much less pronounced in its effect than the corre- sponding principles in tea and coffee. The high percentage of fat, together with other food principles, places this beverage in the class with foods. As a rule, when making cocoa or chocolate, follow the recipes found on the package. It will be well to bear in mind, however, that boiling will greatly improve it. Beating constantly with an egg beater while cooking will thoroughly mix the ingredients and prevent a thin skin from rising to the surface.
Beef Tea
Like tea, coffee, and chocolate, there is a principle in meat which is stimulating. These are soluble in water, and when extracted, make a beverage which stimulates the appetite. Being easily digested, beef tea is good for convalescents and beneficial when one is tired.
[34] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
How to Make Beef Tea
}/i pound of round of beef. 34 teaspoon of salt.
2 cups of cold water.
Put meat through the food chopper. Cover with water, add salt, and let stand an hour. Put in the upper part of a double boiler, fill the under part with cold water, set the meat over it, and cook over the water about 2 hours, keeping the water underneath below the boiling point. Strain and serve.
Cool, Refreshing Drinks
All fruit juices make refreshing drinks and punches. The fruit syrups may be made and some kinds can be pur- chased ready for use. The best lemonade is made from prepared syrup in the proportion of two cups each of water and sugar and a thin shaving of lemon peel boiled for about ten minutes, removing any scum which may gather on the surface; cool and add the juice of six to eight lemons. Allow two tablespoons of the lemon syrup for each glass of water.
Partially fill each glass with shaved or crushed ice be- fore pouring in the lemonade. If one does not possess an ice shaver have a small, stout canvas bag and pound the ice to the consistency of snow. This insures the mixture cooling at once and adds greatly to the attractiveness of the drink. This only applies to cool drinks served in tall glasses, and not those served from a punch bowl.
Chocolate syrup is made by taking J^ cup of ground chocolate, two cups of sugar and one cup boiling water. Mix and boil about 5 minutes. Cool, add 1 teaspoon vanilla and store in a tightly covered jar or bottle. For iced chocolate use 1 tablespoon syrup to ^ cup of milk; pour over shaved or pounded ice and put a tablespoon whipped cream on top.
A chocolate eggnog is particularly refreshing and nour- ishing as well, and can be given to both old and young. Beat 1 egg white very stiff, then add gradually, while constantly beating, 1 tablespoon ground chocolate and a few grains of salt; take out about 3^ of this mixture, and to remaining portion add gradually 1 cup cold milk, con-
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [35]
stantly beating. Put the remainder of the mixture on top and serve.
Coffee syrup is useful to have on hand also. Make 1 pint of strong coffee; strain, add 2 cups sugar and boil about 5 minutes. Cool and store in a bottle or tightly covered jar. Use 2 tablespoons of the coffee syrup to ^ cup milk, pour over shaved ice and add 1 tablespoon cream either whipped or plain; a little nutmeg may be sprinkled over the top. Both the iced chocolate and coffee make excellent warm-weather luncheon drinks and offer a change from the usual iced tea. And, by the way, iced tea should be made fresh and used at once if it is to be at its best. Always make tea with water which has been freshly boiled. For iced tea make a little stronger than usual, and steep only 4 minutes, then pour in tall glasses % full of shaved or crushed ice. Add thin slices of lemon and pass powdered sugar. For a tea punch chill tea; add 34 as much lemon juice as tea. Keep very cold and just before serving add 1 small bottle of ginger ale for every 2 quarts of tea.
For those persons who enjoy the flavor of chocolate, but do not care to indulge in fattening foods, cocoa may be freely used. Cocoa is almost free of the rich fats contained in chocolate.
Orange Julip
3 oranges. 2 cups boiling water.
1 grapefruit. 1 pint ginger ale.
1 cup sugar. 1 spray fresh mint.
Extract orange and grapefruit juice. Boil sugar and water 5 minutes; cool and add to fruit juice. Just before serving add ginger ale. Fill bottom of glass with crushed ice, add a small bit of the bruised mint, then fill glasses with liquid. Thin quartered slices of orange or cherries may be added.
Honolulu Fizz
For each service allow: J^ cup pineapple juice, 3^ cup sparkling cider, 1 egg white, tiny spray mint crushed. Put ingredients into a shaker or jar and shake vigorously for 3 or 4 minutes. Pour at once over crushed ice.
[36] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Fruit Cup
1 quart cooked sweetened 1 cup sugar.
loganberries. 1 cup water (ice water).
3 lemons (juice only).
Boil sugar and water 5 minutes; cool, add fruit and lemon juice and let stand about 2 hours. Strain and dilute with ice water to the desired strength.
Lemon Whey
1 cup hot milk. 1 tablespoon sugar.
3^ lemon (juice only).
Add lemon juice to milk and cook over a very low fire or in a double boiler until whey separates. Do not stir. Strain through a cheesecloth, add sugar and chill. Serve with thin slices of lemon. A very refreshing drink.
Fruit Punch
6 lemons (juice only). 2 cups freshly made tea.
6 oranges (juice only). 23^ cups sugar.
1 cup grated pineapple. 13^ cups water.
2 cups strawberry syrup. 1 quart apollinaris. 1 cup Maraschino cherries. 1 gallon ice water.
Boil sugar and water five minutes. Cool and add tea, fruit juices, syrup and pineapple. Let stand one hour, then strain. Add ice water and pour over a large piece of ice. Then add apollinaris and cherries. Sufficient for 40 persons.
Southern Punch
4 cups strong tea. 1 cup sugar.
2 oranges (juice only). 1 cup boiling water.
2 lemons (juice only). 1 banana.
Boil sugar and water 5 minutes. Cool and add orange and lemon juice. Allow 4 level teaspoons tea to 4 cups of freshly boiled water. Add a small piece of orange rind and let stand 5 minutes. Strain and cool. Combine mixtures. Pour over crushed ice and add 2 or 3 thin slices of banana to each glass.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [3?]
Orangeade
2 cups sugar. 1 quart water.
2 cups orange juice. J^ cup lemon juice.
Boil sugar and water 5 minutes, adding orange rinds. Strain, chill, add fruit juices and dilute to taste with ice water. A mint leaf may be added to each glass. Sufficient for a dozen glasses.
Pineapple Lemonade
1 cup grated pineapple. l}i cups sugar.
3 lemons (juice OEJy). 1 quart ice water. ^2 cup hot water.
Boil sugar and hot water about 5 minutes. Cool, add pineapple and lemon juice. Strain. Add ice water and serve. This makes about IS glasses.
Grape Punch
1 cup grape juice. 1 orange cut in thin slices.
2 lemons (juice only). 2 quarts of water. 2 oranges (juice only). IH cups sugar.
Boil the sugar and water for 5 minutes. Cool, add re- maining ingredients and pour over cracked ice. Sufficient for 16 persons.
College Punch
1 cup grated pineapple. 1 quart fruit juice (grape,
2 quarts boiling water. loganberry or strawberry). 2 cups freshly made tea. 4 cups sugar.
6 lemons (juice only). 1 quart apollinaris.
6 oranges (juice only).
Cook pineapple, sugar and water together about 15 minutes. Strain and cool. Add fruit juices and tea. An hour or so before serving pour over cracked ice and add apollinaris. Will serve about 40 persons.
California Punch
1 quart cooked apricots 1 quart apple juice or apple
(canned or dried). cider.
2 cups sugar. 2 oranges (juice only). 2 cups water. 2 lemons (juice only).
Rub the apricots through a coarse sieve. Boil sugar and water together for 5 minutes, then add apricot pulp. Chill. Let stand at least 2 hours, then pour over cracked ice. Sufficient for 25 punch cups.
[38] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Fruit Essential in the Daily Diet
Fruit is really indispensable in a well regulated diet. Formerly it was considered an accessory, rather than an essential food, and was eaten mainly for its flavor and re- freshing qualities. The food value of most fruits is not high, but the mineral salts they contain are necessary to good health. A person who eats quantities of fruit is usually in excellent health and has a clear complexion, due to the body regulating qualities of the various mineral salts and organic acids contained in fruit. These organic acids impart an agreeable acid flavor and help to keep the blood in good condition. Most fruits contain a large proportion of water, also of value in the diet.
The digestibility of fruit depends upon both the nature of the fruit and its degree of ripeness. Neither under nor over ripe fruits are fit to eat raw. The over-ripe fruit should be discarded, as it is unfit to use under any condi- tion; the under-ripe fruit may be cooked and then is easily digested. Starch is present in unripe fruit, but is changed in the ripe fruit into sugar and gums.
Uncooked starch is not easily digested, while just the opposite is true of the fruit sugars, which very seldom cause digestive troubles, such as may be produced from cane sugar. Eating under-ripe fruit often causes serious results, especially when eaten by children. In the unripe condition the starch has not been changed to sugar, and the fruit, being very firm, is probably not masticated completely, making it still harder to digest. A ripe peach would be more easily digested than a firm apple, even though the apple were perfectly ripe.
Prunes, figs, dates, raisins, and bananas have a higher food value than other fruits. All these, excepting the banana, contain a quantity of sugar, as well as mineral salts. Bananas are largely starch, and for this reason should be perfectly ripe or cooked before eating. All children are especially fond of bananas, but it is much safer to bake this fruit than to allow them to eat it raw, for it is usually sold under-ripe. When the banana is in a fit con- dition to eat raw, the skin has become dark and the
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [39]
pulp dry and mealy. Cooking is really a ripening process, and fruits not sufficiently ripe to eat raw are wholesome after cooking.
Raw fruits have a much greater tonic value than the cooked fruit, but to many persons the raw fruit is indigest- ible; and as cooking softens the fruit and converts the starch into sugar, it is then more easily digested. As the cooking process drives out the mineral salts and acids into the liquid in which the fruit is cooked, this juice must be served with the fruit, or much of its value is lost. Many of the valuable mineral salts are found just beneath the skin, so these should be retained as far as possible.
Most children naturally crave fruit, and this desire should be gratified and not considered an indulgence. It is nature's way of demanding this health-giving, bone-build- ing material. Even babies, after three months old, are given small quantities of orange or prune juice, gradually increasing the amount as the child grows older. Fruit beverages offer an opportunity to introduce acids and salts into the system. These are always found refreshing. Do not serve too sweet, or they will not quench the thirst.
Uncooked acid fruits should not be served in combi- nation with starchy foods, as this frequently causes indi- gestion. If cereal is to be served in combination with fruit, the fruit should be cooked, or of a variety which is sweet, not acid. As fruit contains a quantity of water, very little should be used when cooking. Sugar should not be added until the fruit is cooked.
Dried fruits should be thoroughly cleaned, then soaked in water to cover for several hours, in order to regain the mois- ture which has been evaporated. They should be cooked in the liquid in which they were soaked, heating very slowly and keeping under the boiling point until tender. The slow cooking develops the natural fruit sugars. Prunes, raisins, and figs will require no sugar. Other dried fruits may need a small quantity.
Fruit salads offer splendid opportunities for serving both fresh and cooked fruits. Such salads may be served as a salad course or used for dessert. Fruit cocktails are pala- table and serve as an appetizer for dinner.
[40] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
The addition of sugar to cooked fruit greatly increases its nutritive value and cooking sugar at a high temperature in conjunction with the acid of the fruit brings about the inversion of the sugar, which is one of the first steps in its digestion.
For this reason jams, marmalades, and preserves are considered one of the most wholesome ways in which sugar may be eaten.
If the family does not care for fruits between meals, which is really one of the best times to eat them, see that fruit in some form is furnished for at least one meal a day, for it is a necessary part of the daily diet. Do not consider fruit an extravagance and an accessory. If we are to have healthy bodies, fruit is an essential, and although its actual food value, if fresh, is not high, its health-giving properties are a necessity.
Orange or Grapefruit in Sections ^
Cut the orange peel in eighths from the stem nearly to the blossom end. Carefully loosen the peel, then the sec- tions of orange. Place on a serving plate, placing a table- spoon of powdered sugar in the center. The peel may be made to form a border by rolling the points inward around the base of the orange.
Oranges and Grapefruit
Cut fruit in halves crosswise. Cut a small slice from the end so fruit will stand level. Loosen the pulp with a sharp knife, or grapefruit knife. Remove center pith and mem- brane with scissors.
To Remove Pulp of Orange and Grapefruit for Salads and Cocktails
Peel the fruit with a sharp knife, cutting close enough to the fruit so that the juice will run. Cut out each section with a sharp pointed knife. There will be very little waste and egch section should be whoje.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [41]
Fresh Fruit Cocktail
Select grapefruit, oranges, bananas, pineapple and white grapes when in season. Use about equal portions of each. Remove all seeds, membrane and skin. Chill thoroughly, sweeten if necessary or add maraschino syrup. Arrange in cocktail glasses; place a cherry on top of each glass. Serve very cold.
Strawberries Au Naturel
Wash berries carefully but do not hull. Drain until dry. Place a tablespoon of powdered sugar in the center of individual service plates. Arrange strawberries around the sugar and serve.
Melon Cocktail
Have equal quantities of chilled cantaloupe and water- melon. Cut into balls with a small French vegetable cutter or cut into half-inch cubes. Arrange in cocktail glasses; sprinkle lightly with salt.
Melons
Serve all varieties of melons very cold. Cut watermelon in halves and remove the fruit of each in one piece. Cut in sections the shape of a piece of pie, remove seeds and serve. This method disposes of much of the water so awkward if served on the rind.
Sliced Oranges
Peel oranges with a sharp knife; slice very thin cross- wise. Arrange on individual plates, sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve very cold.
Sliced Peaches
Scald fruit 1 minute with boiling water. Dip in cold water and remove skins. If to stand before serving, sprinkle with sugar and lemon juice to prevent discolora- tion.
[42] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Sliced Bananas
Select ripe fruit. Remove skin and scrape outside of the fruit. Slice very thin. Do not prepare until shortly before being served.
Fruit Cocktail, with Sauce
Remove the pulp from grapefruit and mix with diced pineapple, diced apple and sliced banana. Allow 3^ cup of mixture to each serving. Chill thoroughly, add cocktail sauce, also chilled, and serve in grapefruit or red apple shells or glasses.
Sauce for Fruit Cocktail
34 cup tomato cocktail sauce or 2 tablespoons orange juice,
catsup. }/s teaspoon each of salt, pa-
14 cup white grapejuice. prika, sugar and cloves.
1 tablespoon lemon juice. 34 teaspoon cinnamon.
Mix thoroughly and chill.
Prunes — Stewed
Wash prunes, cover with warm water and soak for several hours, over night if possible. Heat slowly in water (in which they were soaked) to simmering point and cook under boiling point until tender. Rapid cooking destroys the flavor and appearance of the fruit. Prunes may be flavored with a small stick of cinnamon or a little lemon or orange peel. Slow cooking develops the natural fruit sugars and little if any sugar is required; if sugar is used, add after prunes are cooked but while still hot; or remove prunes, add sugar to juice and simmer until juice is some- what thickened. A fireless cooker is excellent for cooking prunes. Soak as directed above; then heat to the boiling point and set in the fireless (without a heated stone) for several hours.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [43]
Prune Juice
Wash prunes, cover with warm water and let stand over night. Heat very slowly to simmering point, cook until tender; don't boil. No sugar is required. Pour off juice, straining through fine sieve. The prunes left can be used for prune desserts requiring prune pulp.
[44] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Garnishes
To garnish a dish attractively or serve it in an appealing form adds very little to its cost, takes no very great amount of time, and makes the food so much more pleasing in every way. There is nothing which so quickly indicates the interest the housewife takes in cooking as the manner in which she serves food. One who has no pride in her work seldom gives thought to garnishing. Daintily served foods encourage appetite and aid digestion. This is why an invalid's tray should always have special atten- tion, for the tastefully decorated, carefully prepared food may tempt a delicate appetite. Convalescent children can often be mduced to eat food which appeals to their imagi- nation, where otherwise the dish would be rejected. A marshmallow in a hot cup of cocoa, chocolate or milk may be just the thing to make the beverage desirable.
Many busy home makers are unable to give either time or thought to elaborate garnishings, but all food may be arranged with some sort of symmetry which enhances its appetite appeal. Mashed potatoes may be easily arranged in a ring on a flat serving dish and the center opening left large enough to hold buttered peas, string beans, oi asparagus tips. The dish looks attractive and is as quickly done as arranging in two separate dishes, and there is one less dish to be washed.
Chops or cutlets can be placed on the platter, one over- lapping the other in the center of the dish; or placed in a circle on the platter and the center filled with buttered peas or mashed potatoes. If roasted potatoes are on the menu use as a garnish on the platter surrounding the meat. Or perhaps boiled rice is to take the place of potatoes; if so butter a custard cup, fill with hot rice, turn out at once on the meat platter and repeat until all the rice is used, or arrange in a ring. Thin slices of fried bacon make a good relish as well as garnish for meat or egg dishes. For special occasions mashed potatoes can be shaped into individual cup-shaped forms, brushed over with beaten egg and then browned nicely on the top grate of a rather hot oven; fill the center with a cooked vegetable. If
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [45]
stuiFed tomatoes are to be the vegetable, use these as a garnish for the roast. Fried eggplant may be used in the same manner. Slices of tomato, raw or dipped in crumbs and fried, are nice served with fried or baked fish or broiled chicken. In fact, these are only a few suggestions as to the possibilities for serving food in an appealing way, for everyday use, which will not require additional labor, such a factor in these days when there are so many interesting things to do.
If food is prepared especially for garnishing, it should always be eatable. Sandwiches tied with ribbons and attractive bows may make a pretty table, but are certainly not practical. Have all the decorations desired on the table, but not on the food unless it is edible.
Slices of hard cooked eggs surrounding a mold of spinach; radishes cut attractively or plain olives, ripe, green, stuffed; slices of lemon, sprinkled with paprika for fish; potato balls dipped in melted butter and finely chopped parsley.
Vegetable borders are very attractive and offer a palatable way to use left-overs. The center can be filled with creamed fish, chicken or veal.
Pork or lamb chops may be served on a thin layer of tomato sauce or surrounded with spaghetti cooked in a tomato sauce. Pork chops or sausage may be accompanied by rings of fried apples.
Small croquettes of rice, fried a golden brown, and cubes of currant jelly may be served with roast game or fowl.
Fried or baked bananas add greatly to Salisbury steak (chopped raw beef).
Fruit fritters such as apple, pineapple, orange and banana may be served with both steak and fried chicken. Corn fritters can be cooked on a griddle like pancakes, and are acceptable with almost any kind of meat course. Very small portions of left-over corn may be made into these fritters.
For more elaborate garnishing a pastry bag and tube will be required. Very little practice is required to handle a pastry bag skillfully enough for these simple decorations. It takes only a second to fill the bag with creamy mashed potatoes and when forced through a large star tube, either
[46] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
in a border or cup shape, to be filled with vegetables or creamed fish or meat, an otherwise commonplace dish will assume a festive appearance. The pastry bag can be made at home of heavy canvas, in a cornucopia shape, and the tubes can be purchased at any household appliance de- partment. One or two tubes are all that are needed, so it is not necessary to buy an expensive outfit.
A garnish may be used for appearance only, such as parsley or slices of lemon; or for a food such as hard cooked eggs, toast, fritters, etc. Chopped parsley adds flavor as well as a garnish to many dishes. If lemons are to serve a double purpose, garnish and for flavor, they should be cut so the pieces can be handled without soiling the fingers. Bread for a garnish should be cut the desired shape (tri- angles, diamonds or rounds) before toasting. Toast is usually used as a garnish with creamed dishes. French fried potatoes or potato balls rolled in minced parsley look and taste well with croquettes, chops, steaks or filets of fish. Garnishes from hard cooked eggs are numerous; they may be cut in rings or quarters; or the yolks pressed through a sieve and the whites finely chopped. Figures cut from pickled beets or just sliced beets or pickles add an attractive touch, both as a relish and for contrast of color. One point to remember is that the garnish should be appro- priate to the dish and it should not crowd the food it accompanies.
Savory appetizers or relishes are not difficult to prepare. Canapes, fish and fruit cocktails, raw oysters or clams are all used as appetizers to begin the meal, while olives, salted nuts, spiced fruits, celery, etc., are passed between courses at the formal meal or with the roast at the informal family meal.
Canapes are always attractive and very easy to make and add a pleasing touch to the company dinner. The foundation is bread cut in small triangles or fancy shapes and either spread with butter on one side only and deli- cately browned in the oven, or toasted on one side, or fried in deep fat. The filling is spread on the untoasted side of the bread if the first or second method is used. A garnish of some kind is added for the general appearance; it may be olives, ripe, green or stuff'ed; or pickles cut to
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [47 ]
look like a fan; or tiny cheese balls rolled in chopped pars- ley; bits of hard cooked egg; minced green pepper or pimento or almost anything your fancy dictates. Serve these canapes on small plates with or without doilies.
Fish cocktails may be served in long stemmed wine or cocktail glasses or small sherbet cups; fish and fruit cock- tails should be served very cold. Each cocktail glass should be set on a small plate and a doily under each glass adds to the general appearance.
Whipped cream forced through the pastry bag, using a star tube, makes a very tempting decoration for desserts. All gelatin puddings can be attractively served in this manner; also fruit salads, and even the more humble stewed prunes or apple sauce, will look more dainty and tempting garnished, and may be served as a dinner dessert. Whipped cream not only adds to the appearance of a dish, whether a pastry bag is used or it is arranged with a spoon, but also adds to the food value of the dish with which it is served.
Very thick mayonnaise may garnish a salad or fish, either forced through a pastry bag or used plain.
Cold meats are improved in appearance if served with rings of green peppers or pimento or crisp lettuce leaves, with a spoonful of some relish, such as chutney, chili sauce, horseradish, or pickles placed in the center of each leaf. Olives, radishes or fringed celery also add to the appealing appearance of many meat and fish dishes, as well as salads.
Cakes can be very effectively decorated with candied fruits, walnuts, blanched almonds and pecans. Angelica or thinly sliced citron may be soaked in warm water, dried thoroughly, then cut into leaves of any desired form. Tiny colored candies and marshmallows may be used to trim cakes for children. Also the pastry bag and star tube will be found useful for decorating small cakes, even if the operator has very little skill in the manipulation of this implement.
Chopped nut meats sprinkled over fruit salads, coffee cakes, or cake icings all add to the dainty appearance of the food.
Immaculate linen, attractive dishes, shining glassware,
[48] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
all add to the attractive appearance of the table, and these need not necessarily be of the expensive variety.
One important thought to keep uppermost is the fact that pleasing looking food creates an appetite and starts the digestive fluids, thereby making food more easily digested, so the subject of appearance is well worth some consideration, not just for occasions, but for every day.
How to Prepare Radishes for a Garnish
Wash well, cut a thin slice ofi^ the tip and remove the root; with a sharp knife score the skin into six or seven sections, extending about two-thirds of the way down the radish. Then loosen the skin on each section, place in cold water and the sections will stand out like the sections of a flower.
How to Prepare Pickles for a Garnish
Select pickles of uniform size; cut lengthwise, beginning at the top, into very thin slices without cutting com- pletely through at the end; spread out like a fan.
To Render Uncooked Vegetables Crisp
Put into very cold water, adding a slice or two of lemon and allow to stand an hour or more.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [49
Appetizers
Cream Cheese Canape
Spread rounds of bread with softened cream cheese, place a sHce of tomato over it; put thick mayonnaise forced through a pastry bag with a star tube, to form a border around the tomato. Garnish with tiny cheese balls rolled in minced parsley.
Grated Cheese Canapes
Spread rounds of bread lightly with French mustard, sprinkle with finely grated cheese and minced stuffed olives. Sprinkle with paprika.
Crab or Lobster Canape
Cut out rounds, diamonds or hearts of bread J^ inch thick and 2 inches in diameter. Brush with butter and brown, on one side only, in the oven. When cold spread untoasted side with minced crab or lobster mixed with mayonnaise. Garnish with minced green peppers or chopped olives.
Shell Fish Canape
Lobster, crab or shrimps minced very fine and mixed to a paste with a well-seasoned mayonnaise. Spread on the prepared bread and garnish with stuffed olives. Or for a more elaborate canape, the bread may first be spread with a thin layer of caviare, then the fish mixture. Any cooked fish such as halibut, salmon or tuna may be used in place of crab or lobster.
Sardine Canape
Bone and mash sardines; season with lemon juice and Worcestershire sauce. Mix to a paste and spread on the prepared bread. Garnish with hard cooked eggs pressed through a sieve or gherkins cut in fan shapes.
[50] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Anchovy Paste
Cut slices of bread into desired shapes; brush with butter and toast on one side. When cold spread untoasted side with anchovy paste; garnish with rings cut from whites of hard cooked eggs and grated yolks. Stuffed olives may also be used as a garnish.
Caviare and Egg Canapes
Cut thin slices of graham or whole wheat bread. Butter each side and brown delicately in the oven. Allow half a hard cooked egg for each service. Remove yolk, mash and mix with an equal quantity of caviare. Fill each half of egg white with the mixture, heaping it high in the center. Chop equal quantities of pimentoes and onions cut very- fine. Season with a little mayonnaise. Spread on the bread, set the stuffed egg in the center and garnish with slices of stuffed olives.
Smoked Salmon Canapes
Cut fresh bread in half inch slices, then cut round with a biscuit cutter. Spread both sides with butter and brown in the oven or fry in a frying pan. Allow one hard cooked egg for two persons. Chop the white fine and press the yolks through the potato ricer or coarse sieve. Place thin slices of smoked salmon on each round of bread; arrange a border of the egg white around the edge of the bread and sprinkle the sifted yolk over the top of the salmon, keeping most of it in the center. Serve on individual plates.
Anchovy Eggs ^
Cook eggs under boiling point at least 30 minutes. The yolks will then be crumbly. When cooked place in cold water to chill and prevent yolks turning dark. Cut in halves lengthwise. Remove yolks, mash and moisten with thick mayonnaise and season with anchovy paste. Fill the egg white halves with this mixture, completely cover- ing the top and heaping it in the center. Set each half on a round of bread which has been lightly toasted on one
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [51]
side. If egg does not set level cut off a small slice at the base. Arrange 2 slices of anchovies over the top of each egg.
Stuffed Eggs
Cook eggs under boiling point at least 30 minutes. When cooked place in cold water to chill and prevent yolk from turning dark. Cut in halves lengthwise. Remove yolk, mash and moisten with thick mayonnaise. Allow 2 stuffed olives for each half of egg. Chop olives, add to yolks. Fill the egg white halves and serve on a small heart of lettuce leaf. Garnish with ripe olives and sweet pickles cut in fan shapes.
Cheese Relish
1 small breakfast cheese. 3^ cup of chopped nuts.
2 tablespoons butter. ^ teaspoon chopped parsley. 1 teaspoon onion juice.
Cream the butter and cheese, add onion juice, nuts and parsley. Form into a loaf and slice or mold into balls and roll in nuts. Serve with salads.
Oyster Cocktail
Chop pimentoes or green peppers very fine; add 1 cup tomato catsup or tomato sauce; season with 1 teaspoon onion juice, a few drops Worcestershire sauce, a teaspoon of grated horseradish and a dash of paprika. Add 1 cup of small fresh oysters, drained of all liquid. Any diced or flaked fish may be used in place of oysters.
Louis Cocktail Sauce No. 1
Mix }/s cup chili sauce or tomato catsup with J^ cup of ^ well-seasoned mayonnaise and ^4 cup of whipped cream, ^p Add 1 cup of diced lobster, shrimps or shredded crab. Sufficient for 4 persons. •
Louis Cocktail Sauce No. 2
Mix }4 cup of tomato catsup with ^2 cup of French dressing; add 1 teaspoon oinion juice and 1 teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce. To use for flaked fish or shell fish cocktail.
CHAPTER THREE
SOUPS WITH STOCK SOUPS WITHOUT STOCK CREAM SOUPS PUREES CHOWDERS
[54] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Good Soup the Best Stimulus to a Good Dinner
I HE best type of soup to use for a dinner menu is one made of a meat stock foundation. These soups should not be confused in food value with heavy chowders, purees or the various cream soups and should be classed as accessories instead of foods. The foundation for this type of soup is a meat stock. Clear soup has its place at the beginning of the dinner because it is a valuable appetizer, acting as a stimulant rather than as a nutrient, and being quickly assimilated, prepares the way for the dishes which are to follow.
Under the ordinary conditions of a dinner, a soup is intended to gratify, not satisfy, hunger. It stimulates the flow of the digestive juices. When the dishes which follow soup are of a hearty nature, the soup should be light and clear, not necessarily nutritious. Water cannot dissolve the fiber of meat, and as the fiber holds most of the nourishment, a meat stock has little food value.
Where a soup is to form the main dish for luncheon it should always be of a nourishing character, such as cream soup, puree or chowder.
The flavor of a good stock depends upon the amount of "extractives" that have been obtained during the cooking process. "Extractives" are that part of animal food which gives distinctive flavor and acts as a stimulant to the appetite and as an aid to digestion.
Meat stock should always be made the day before it is required, as a good result can only be obtained by long, slow cooking. It is only by this means, too, that the fat can be removed from the top of the stock. A good stock is strong, well flavored and free from grease. There are a number of kinds of stock.
The first and best stock is made from uncooked meat and bones, well flavored. This forms the foundation for consomme, bouillon, etc. A second stock may be made of the meat and bones left from this first stock by recook- ing with water and a quantity of vegetables. This soup depends mainly upon the vegetables for flavor.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [55]
Stock may be made from the left-overs of cooked meats, bones and vegetables. Such stock can be used not only for soup but as a foundation for gravies and savory sauces. Stock may be made of vegetables, water and seasonings. This makes a very palatable and easily prepared soup. Fish stock is made from fish, shellfish or from the trimmings of fish, and well flavored with vegetables. This stock forms a base for soup or fish sauces.
Stock made of the left-overs of poultry is quite satis- factory. Brown stock is made principally of beef bones and meat, while white stock is made of mutton, lamb, poultry, veal or rabbit. Glaze is a stock which has been reduced in quantity by slow cooking, and when cold forms a solid jelly. Freshly made soup stock may be poured into sterilized jars sealed and set aside for future use. It will keep the same as any canned fruit or vegetable.
Consommes are made from the first stock, which has been made clear by adding the whites and shells of eggs; usually some characteristic flavoring is added to give a distinguishing name, such as Consomme Julienne (with shredded vegetables), or it may be served plain, but should be well seasoned. Broths are made from the first stock; they should be well flavored with vegetables, and may be thickened slightly by adding sago, rice, pearl barley, etc. Bouillon is a broth made from beef. It is not cleared, as for consomme; it should be well flavored with vegetables and may be served plain or with the vegetables finely diced or with rice, sago or pearl barley. Thick soups are made from meat stock which has been thickened by adding corn starch, arrowroot or a quantity of sago, tapioca, rice, pearl barley, etc. These thickening sub- stances add somewhat to the food value of the soup, but not suflGicient to place them in the same class with cream soups and chowders.
The meat from which soup is made lacks flavor, but still contains most of the necessary food value. It should be well seasoned to supply the flavor which has been extracted and may be used for croquettes, timbales, or minced and served with savory sauces.
To obtain the flavor of the meat and bones they should be cut in small pieces and all but a small portion of the lean
[56] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
meat should be covered with cold water and allowed to soak for at least an hour. The meat which has been re- served should be dredged with flour and browned in hot fat. Add the cooked meat to that which is soaking in cold water; pour over one cupful of water and simmer for a few minutes to obtain all the browned material, which adds color and flavor to the stock.
Set the soup kettle over the fire, add the seasoning and bring slowly to the boiling point only, then simmer gently several hours. Soup stock should never boil, as that would make the meat tough and would keep most of the juices in the meat instead of extracting them, as desired; also the salt has a tendency to draw out the juices and may be added to the cold water when soaking the meat.
The vegetables added for flavor should be finely chopped and sauted, in beef dripping or a portion of the suet, for about 5 minutes, then added to the stock. When cooked the soup should be strained and set aside to cool; the coat of fat which will cover the top should be removed and then the stock is ready for use for the various soups. Pearl barley, rice, etc., should be previously cooked or partially cooked, then added to the stock. Vegetables should be finely diced or cut in thin strips, so that a very short length of time only will be required to cook them. The vegetables used to flavor the stock when first preparing will not take the place of vegetables served in the soup. The first are used for flavor only. The second to serve in the soup and to give additional flavor.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [57]
How to Prepare Nourishing Soups Without
Stocks
Soups without stock include all cream soups, chowders and purees. This type of soup is both substantial and nourishing and is served at luncheon or where the meal to follow is not hearty. Or cream soups may be served for informal dinners to furnish a substantial dish so that the dinner itself will not require so generous an amount of the more expensive meat or meat substitute. Cream soups and chowders are both popular and very easily made.
The foundation of a cream soup is a thin white sauce; cooked vegetable pulp or puree is added for flavor. The careful housewife will plan in advance to cook sufficient vegetables at a previous meal to prepare these soups. Many times left-over vegetables are improved by further cooking, since in order to make really good cream soup the vegetables should be so soft that they will easily pass through a sieve or puree strainer. The outer leaves of celery, the tough ends of asparagus, the discarded leaves of lettuce, will all give sufficient flavor to make a delicate, appetizing cream soup. Vegetables that would otherwise be thrown away may be utilized most satisfactorily in this manner. When possible use the liquor in which the vegetables were cooked, together with milk when making the foundation white sauce, as it adds more flavor. Strictly speaking, cream soups should contain only pureed vege- tables, meats or fish, but are more substantial if a part of the ingredients used are chopped very fine and added to the soup. When using canned vegetables for making soups the liquor should be discarded whenever possible, as it usually imparts a "canned" taste not at all palatable. The exceptions would be corn and tomatoes. These soups are improved if a small quantity of whipped cream is added just before serving, or a teaspoon of the whipped cream may be used as a garnish for each service.
When preparing cream soups the vegetables should be rubbed through a coarse seive and heated before making the white sauce. The sauce should be made just before
[58] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
serving time and then the two ingredients combined. Cream soups will not curdle if made by this method. If allowed to stand any length of time they are apt to separate, so should not be made until required.
Purees are usually made of vegetables such as dried beans, dried peas or potatoes and are a form of cream soup and very nutritous.
A puree should be about as thick as a cream soup, there- fore but little thickening is needed; but it will separate if no thickening is used.
Bisques are made of fish, usually shell fish. They have as a base a thin sauce. Clams, oysters or diced lobster or crab are added to a white sauce and the whole well seasoned.
Chowders are very substantial and are almost a meal in themselves when served with bread and butter. These soups make a very satisfactory luncheon or supper dish.
Standard Brown Soup Stock
3 pounds of shin of beef or 3 whole cloves,
other muscular portion. 3^ teaspoon white pepper.
3 quarts of cold water. 3^ cup each finely chopped 1 tablespoonful salt. carrots, celery, onion and
4 pepper corns or turnip.
Cut the meat in cubes. Remove about % of the meat and dredge this with flour and brown in hot beef drippings or fat. Add 1 cupful of cold water and simmer about 10 minutes. Cover the rest of the meat and cracked bones with cold water and soak for at least an hour. Add the browned meat and seasonings and bring slowly to the simmering point, cooking between 4 and 5 hours. Do not boil. Strain, set aside to cool and remove fat. The stock is now ready for many varieties of soup.
Mulligatawny Soup
1 quart of brown soup stock. 2 tablespoons butter or sub-
1 cup strained tomatoes. stitute.
J^ cup each chopped carrots, 2 tablespoons flour.
celery, onions, greenpepper. 1 teaspoon curry powder. 1 cup cooked meat or chicken
cut in dice.
Add tomatoes, vegetables and diced meat to soup stock and heat to the simmering point. Cook 30 to 40 minutes.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [59]
Soften butter, add flour and curry powder and mix until creamy. Slowly pour 2 cupfuls of the hot soup over flour mixture, stirring until smooth; then add to soup, cook for 5 minutes and serve.
Onion Soup
1 quart or 4 cups of brown 2 tablespoons shortening, stock. 4 tablespoons grated cheese.
2 medium sliced onions.
Melt the fat and add onions; fry until a golden brown. Add the soup stock and simmer 30 minutes. Have the cheese in a bowl and sprinkle 1 tablespoon of grated cheese on each service of soup.
Creole Soup
3 cups of brown stock. 2 teaspoons Worcestershire 1 cup strained tomato. sauce.
1 onion minced. H cup cooked rice.
Add ingredients to brown stock, heat and serve.
Julienne Soup
4 cups brown stock. }4 cup cooked peas. X cup each cut carrot, turnip
and potato.
Cut the vegetables in thin pieces about the length of a match and twice as thick. Parboil about 5 minutes, then add to hot soup and simmer 20 minutes. Add peas and serve.
Oxtail Soup
1 small oxtail. M teaspoon pepper.
2 quarts of brown soup stock. 1 tablespoon Worcestershire }4 cup each chopped carrots, sauce.
turnips, onions, celery. 1 tablespoon lemon juice.
J^ teaspoon salt.
Cut oxtail in small pieces. Dredge with flour and brown in hot fat. Add 1 cupful of cold water and simmer 10 minutes. Add soup stock together with remaining ingredients. Simmer 1 hour or more.
[60] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Consomme
1 knuckle of veal. 3 whole cloves.
1 pound beef. 3^ bay leaf.
3 quarts of cold water. 1 tablespoon salt.
y^ cup each diced carrot, onion and celery.
Cut meat in cubes, also cut ofF all meat from the knuckle. Dredge with flour and fry in hot beef suet until brov^n on all sides. Pour over 1 cupful of cold water and simmer 10 minutes. This will give a rich color to the soup. Crack the knuckle, put into a kettle with meat and remaining ingredients. Bring slowly to the simmering point and cook between 4 and 5 hours. Do not boil. A bit of thyme, summer savory and marjoram will add a delicate flavor. When cooked strain and cool. Remove fat, then add the slightly beaten white of 1 egg. Return to the fire and bring to the boiling point, stirring frequently. Strain again before serving. This will clear the soup. When cold consomme should form a perfect jelly which may be cut into cubes and served cold in hot weather.
Emergency Soup Without Stock
}/2 cup carrot, finely chopped. 4 cups water.
y^ cup turnip, finely chopped. 4 tablespoons butter or butter
1 cup of celery, cut in small substitute.
pieces. 1 teaspoon chopped parsley.
1 cup potato, cut in small 1 teaspoon salt.
cubes. y^ teaspoon pepper.
1 onion, sliced.
Prepare vegetables before measuring. Melt butter, add all vegetables except potatoes and cook over a low fire about 10 minutes, stirring often. Add potatoes and water and simmer about 40 minutes, or until vegetables are tender. Add parsley and serve.
Foundation Recipe for Cream Soups
2 cups milk. 2 cups water in which vegetable 2 tablespoons butter or sub- was cooked.
stitute. 1 teaspoon salt.
2 tablespoons flour. y^ teaspoon pepper.
1 cup vegetable pulp.
Chop vegetables fine, add about 3 cups of water and cook until tender. Rub the cooked vegetable through a coarse
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [61]
sieve. Melt the butter, add the flour, mix until smooth, then cook until it bubbles; add cold milk and stir until mixture thickens, then add seasonings. Heat the vege- table pulp in the water in which it was cooked. Combme mixtures and serve. Milk may replace the vegetable water and finely diced chicken or flaked fish the vegetable pulp. Left-over vegetables can be strained and used.
Cream of Tomato Soup.
2 cups milk. 2 cups strained tomato.
2 tablespoons butter or sub- 1 teaspoon salt.
stitue. }i teaspoon pepper. 2 tablespoons flour.
Melt butter, add flour, mix until smooth, then cook until it bubbles; add cold milk and stir until mixture thickens. Add seasonings. Just before serving add hot tomatoes. Do not cook after combining mixtures. Made in this manner the soup will not curdle.
Split Pea Puree
1 cup split peas. 14 sliced onion. 6 cups water or half stock and 1 tablespoon butter or sub- half water. stitute. 14 teaspoon salt. 1 tablespoon of flour. H teaspoon pepper.
Cover peas with cold water and soak over night. In the morning drain and add the cold water or stock, seasonings, onion and if wished a small piece of salt pork or bacon. Heat to the boiling point then simmer about 2 hours. Press through a coarse sieve. Melt butter, add flour, mix until smooth, then gradually add hot soup and bring to the boiling point. Serve with croutons.
Croutons
Cut stale bread in )4 ii^ch slices and remove crusts. Spread thinly with butter on both sides. Cut into small cubes, place in a pan and bake until dry and a delicate brown, having a slow oven.
[62] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Clam or Fish Chowder
2 cups of clams or fish. 2 cups milk.
2 cups raw potatoes, cut in dice. 4 crackers.
li cup salt pork, cut in small 1 tablespoon butter or sub- pieces, stitute.
1 onion, sliced. 1 tablespoon flour.
Put salt pork in a pan and heat slowly to extract the fat; add sliced oinion and cook until a golden brown. Add 2 cups of boiling water to the potatoes and cook 5 minutes, add the salt pork and onions to the potatoes and simmer until the potatoes are tender but not broken. Melt the butter, add flour, mix until smooth, add cold milk and stir until creamy. Combine mixtures, season and add clarns or fish. Cook 5 minutes. Add crackers, split and cut in quarters. Strained tomatoes may replace the milk if desired.
Com Chowder
1 cup canned corn. 2 cups milk.
2 cups raw potatoes, cut in 1 tablespoon butter or butter cubes. substitute.
H cup salt pork, cut in small 3^ teaspoon salt.
pieces. y^ teaspoon pepper.
1 onion, sliced.
Put salt pork in a saucepan and cook to extract the fat; add onion and cook until golden brown, about 5 minutes; parboil potatoes in boiling water to cover 5 minutes; add to salt pork and onion. Cook until potatoes are tender. Melt the butter, add flour, mix until smooth, add cold milk and stir until creamy. Add seasonings and combine mixtures.
Onion and Potato Soup
1 onion, sliced. 2 cups boiling water.
1 cup celery, cut in ]4 inch 2 tablespoons butter or sub- pieces, stitute.
2 cups raw potatoes, cut in 2 tablespoons flour, cubes. 3^ teaspoon salt.
2 tablespoons shortening. 3^ teaspoon pepper.
2 cups milk.
Melt shortening, add onions and celery; cook about 10 minutes, stirring often. Add flour, mix well and cook until frothy, then add cold milk; cook until thick. In the mean- time parboil the potatoes in boiling water about 5 minutes; combine ingredients, season and serve.
CHAPTER FOUR
BREAKFAST
CEREALS
VARIOUS WAYS OF SERVING EGGS
HOW TO MAKE OMELETS
[64] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Breakfast One of the Important Events of the Day
REAKFAST in most homes is, without doubt, the simplest meal of the day and one requiring the least thought and effort in preparation. But when we consider the fact that breakfast is also the first meal of the day and is the one that should furnish the necessary food principles to the body to aid it in starting and carrying on the work for the day, we can readily understand the importance of this meal and why it is necessary to begin the day with proper food. By this is meant a meal containing the essential food ele- ments to furnish heat and energy and to repair and build the muscles and tissues that are constantly being worn out.
The right food leads to efficiency in one's work, for the body, like an engine, must have fuel, which is furnished by the food we eat. And if the food is not of the proper kind to supply the bodily needs it is going to suffer from lack of fuel.
Of course, several factors, such as age, sex, muscular activity and climate, determine to a large extent the amount and kind of food required by different individuals. For instance, a man doing hard, muscular labor out of doors would require more food and food containing more of the muscle building qualities, such as meat or eggs; while a man doing office work would need less food be- cause his muscular activity is not so great and, working indoors, he does not require so much of the heat pro- ducing foods. It is often remarkable the amount of food growing children eat, but the active child requires energy giving foods, particularly if much time is spent out of doors in active play.
The right kind of food, properly prepared, keeps the body in a healthful condition. And a healthy body is able to resist and throw off disease; an undernourished body is very susceptible to germs and will not recover from a severe illness -so readily as one that is properly nourished and kept in a resistant condition.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [65]
Many persons consider breakfast of so little importance that they omit this meal entirely. This seems a mistake, for in the morning the stomach is practically empty and, in order "to start the day right," some food should be taken unless for some good reason a physician has advised otherwise.
Again, breakfasts are often eaten very hurriedly, which is wrong. In order to receive the greatest benefit from the food, it should be thoroughly broken up in the mouth so that the digestive juices may begin their action. If food is not broken up before entering the stomach it must be done there, and this means a strain on that organ; overwork will gradually cause it to weaken; so in time the stomach will not be able to perform its functions properly.
It may seem difficult to get the variety in our breakfast menus that the large number of luncheon and dinner dishes afford, because there is a limited number of so-called typical breakfast dishes. But there is an endless variety of methods of preparing these different foods, so that there is really no need of monotony at this meal.
Fruit, toast, cereal and coffee is the breakfast of the average city dweller; eggs, creamed dishes, ham, bacon, etc., for those who require a hearty meal.
Fruit is valuable in the diet for the acid and minerals it furnishes the body, and also to act as body regulators. Taking fruit on an empty stomach is more effective than when eaten after a heavy meal. The acids in fruits act as a stimulant and aid digestion. When cereal is served it may furnish the principal part of the meal, for it furnishes starch, the heat and energy producing food, as well as the minerals that are so necessary to the body. If properly cooked cereals are very palatable and very easily digested.
Cocoa, chocolate or milk supplies a food drink and taken with toast or rolls and butter constitutes a light meal.
Eggs and meat furnish the tissue building elements.
With the many different kinds of fruits and cereals and the various methods of preparing them the housewife should be able to have almost as wide a variety of dishes for her breakfast menus as for luncheon and dinner.
[66] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Cereals^ Fuel Foods
Cereals are fuel foods and when properly cooked about 90 per cent of the organic matter is assimilated. They supply actual nutriment to the body more economically than any other class of food.
Wheat, corn, rice and oats are the most widely used; oats and cornmeal, having more fat than other cereals, are particularly desirable for winter foods, although ex- perience has proved that oatmeal mush is acceptable for active children all the year round. Cornmeal and oats are valuable when the menu lacks meat. Many cereals contain protein, which, together with the starch, make them of great food value; in fact, they contain in varying proportions all the essential qualities to support life. One of their greatest values lies in the mineral salts they supply. These salts are essential in the diet of growing children for their bone building qualities.
Because they are rich in starch, cereals must be thor- oughly cooked. It is safe to double the time for cooking as directed on the package. When they are not sufficiently cooked it is difficult for the digestive juices to penetrate the raw starch, and the body will not get the full benefit of the heat and energy this food contains.
Cereals should be cooked in a quantity of boiling water, the amount varying with the kind of cereal to be cooked.
The coarser the grain, the more water required for cooking. Whole or coarse grains are improved and require less time for cooking by soaking in cold water; very fine grains may be mixed with cold water before adding to the boiling water to prevent the formation of lumps. All others should be added slowly to the boiling water, stirring constantly. Cook directly over the flame until boiling point is reached and boil five minutes. Then place over hot water, cover closely and cook the required length of time. A double boiler is a necessity when a fireless cooker is not used. It is impossible to cook cereal properly directly over the flame for any length of time, for it will burn before the cereal has cooked sufficiently. Cereals should be cooked stiff enough to chew. The fireless cooker
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [67]
is an excellent medium for cooking cereals. The longer they are cooked the more digestible and palatable they will be.
When cereals are to be used in the form of gruels for children and invalids the cooking is more important than when used by people in normal health. It should be cooked much longer, then strained to remove all of the tough outer coat of the grains. To this strained mush is added milk to make the desired consistency — a very thin gruel for young children, and of a thicker consistency for invalids or elderly persons if to be eaten from a spoon. It is most important that the cooking be long enough to change the starch to a nearly soluble condition, otherwise it will be indigestible. A good rule is to cook them until the cereal forms a jelly-like mass. If cereals are to be eaten every day offer a variety. The family may easily tire of one kind served too often. Most cooked cereals may be molded, sliced and fried, and served with syrup or eaten with meats to take the place of vegetables. A portion of cooked cereal may replace an equal amount of flour in making muffins or griddle cakes.
Uncooked cereals are often used as a base for steamed puddings or cookies.
Keep cereals in a cool dry place, closely covered to protect them from dust.
General Directions for Cooking All Breakfast Cereals
Put water in upper part of a double boiler; add salt and when boiling rapidly slowly add the cereal so as not to retard boiling Stir constantly, cooking directly over the flame for 5 minutes; then set over the hot water or in the fireless and cook without stirring and closely covered for the required length of time.
[68J MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Time Table for Cooking Breakfast Cereals
Kind Quantity Salt Water Time Farina and Wheat
Germ yi cup 1 teaspoon 2 cups 30 min.
Rolled Oats 1 cup 1 teaspoon 2 cups 30 min.
Rolled Wheat 1 cup 1 teaspoon 1>^ cups 20 min.
Oatmeal yi cup 1 teaspoon 2 cups 3 hours.
Cornmeal ^ cup 1 teaspoon 2 cups 3 hours.
Fine Hominy K^ cup 1 teaspoon 2 cups 1 hour.
Coarse Hominy. . . 1 cup 2 teaspoons 4 cups 3 hours.
Cracked Wheat. . .yi cup 1 teaspoon 2 cups 3 hours.
Boiled Rice
Wash rice in several waters until, when rubbed between the hands in clear water, no further cloudiness appears.
Cook in an abundance of rapidly boiling water, using at least four times as much water as rice. Add the rice to the boiling water a little at a time so as not to lower the tem- perature. Boil from 15 to 30 minutes, or until the rice is tender, then add salt. The time required for cook- ing depends upon the age of the rice. The older the rice the longer it will take to cook until soft. The boiling should be so violent a« to keep the rice agitated and the grains well separated from one another.
To test, press a few grains between the fingers, and when it is soft all through drain the rice through a colander and set over steam or in a moderate oven for a few minutes to dry. If it is found necessary to stir while boiling, use a fork, stirring gently so the kernels will not be broken. If the rice has been well cooked, even when cold each kernel should be dry and distinct. Before adding boiling water to the kettle, grease the bottom of the utensil and the rice will never stick.
The water left from boiled rice has far too much starch to be wasted. It makes a very good starch for very sheer materials. Cooked down until thick, it makes a good foundation for all kinds of soups or sauces. If allowed to cool, it will form a jelly. This water should be used at once, for it sours very quickly.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [ 69 J
Boiled Rice — Oriental Method
1 cup rice. 1 teaspoon of salt.
2 cups cold water.
Wash rice in several waters or until all cloudiness dis- appears. Place in a saucepan with the cold water, cover closely and set directly over the fire. Boil about 10 minutes, then reduce heat and steam 10 minutes more. Add salt during the last 10 minutes' cooking.
[70] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Food Value and Various Ways of Serving Eggs
Eggs contain water, mineral and two chief elements of nutrition, protein and fat. The protein of eggs is more easily digested than that of meat. For that reason eggs should be used freely during the summer, particularly in sections where the weather is hot.
Being a highly concentrated food, eggs lack bulk, so should be served with foods that supply this need.
Eggs are really a necessity with the average family, and there is no other article of food more indispensable to the art of cookery. They are used to thicken sauces and custards; to clarify soups; to keep a coating of crumbs on all breaded foods, such as cutlets, croquettes, etc.; to leaven sponge cakes; to make souffles pufFy and light; doughs and batters firm in texture — in fact, the use is almost limit- less. It may seem a very ordinary process just to boil eggs; however, comparatively very few people do this correctly.
Cooking at a low temperature is absolutely essential if eggs are to be rendered digestible. Raw eggs are very easily and quickly digested. Heated to about 134 degrees F. the white of the egg will be a semi-liquid, the yolk liquid, very easy to digest. Heated to 160 degrees F. the white of the egg will be of a tender jelly-like consist- ency, the yolk soft, also easily assimilated. Heated to 212 degrees F., or the boiling point, and kept at this degree of heat for several minutes, the yolk becomes hard, the white tough and difficult to digest. Cooked for any length of time at the boiling point they become very hard and tough and decidedly indigestible. These facts are worthy of consideration, particularly if you are cooking for children, elderly persons or those with weak stomachs. These principles will apply to all egg cookery.
When other ingredients are used in combination with any number of eggs the heat must be moderate if the result is to be successful. Custards, timbales, sponge cakes, ometlets, etc., all are tough if cooked at a high temperature. During the spring and summer when eggs
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [71]
are not so high in price the thrifty housewife will pack them for use during the winter months. Of course, perfectly fresh eggs have the best flavor and for table use the packed eggs will never be as palatable as fresh ones. But for making cakes, muffins, griddle cakes, custards, puddings, etc., the packed eggs will be just as satisfactory as the fresh and at one-half the price. With a case or more of packed eggs, a small family may have, at a moderate cost, their favorite cake or pudding, the crisp, tempting waffles, cream puffs, popovers or omelets with just as satisfactory results as if made from fresh eggs. There is a prejudice against packed or cold storage eggs which should not exist.
The practical housekeeper realizes their value for cook- ing purposes and knows that it is not logical to use these eggs for the table, for their flavor is impaired; but, com- bined with other ingredients, this lack of flavor has no disadvantage.
Eggs may also be used to replace meat. There are few persons who do not like them, but if served in the same way too often, egg dishes become monotonous. There are many dishes, offering unlimited variety, which should be found on the weekly menu.
Soft and Hard Cooked Eggs
To cook eggs soft they should be dropped into a kettle containing enough boiling water to completely cover them and allow them to stand in the hot water for 10 minutes, having the kettle closely covered and no fire under the kettle. This will give you the soft egg with the white cooked to a jelly-like consistency. If desired cooked longer, keep a very low fire so that the water will not reach the boiling point and cook 12 to IS minutes. Cooked in this manner the egg will be firm but mealy, not tough, and is digestible.
Or cover eggs with cold water and when boiling point is reached remove from the fire. They will be just right for soft cooked eggs. If desired medium or hard, let stand from 10 to 15 minutes in the hot water. Keep kettle closely covered and in a warm place on the stove or over the lowest heat possible sufficient to keep the water hot
[72] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
only. If eggs are to be used for salad or garnishes, let them cook under the boiling point half an hour. Plunge into cold water at once so the yolk will not turn dark.
Poached Eggs
To poach eggs, fill a deep frying pan ^ full of water, add 1/2 teaspoon of salt. When water is boiling, break egg in a saucer and carefully lower into the water. Baste the yolks once or twice to cook the tops. The water should not boil after the eggs have been added, but kept at the simmering point. Cook until the white is firm, then remove carefully with a perforated spoon or skimmer to slices of buttered toast.
Poached Eggs with Spinach
2 cups of cooked spinach, 4 poached eggs.
chopped fine. 2 tablespoons grated cheese.
Yi cup of medium white sauce.
For sauce melt 1 tablespoon of butter or substitute, add 1 tablespoon of flour; mix until smooth and free from lumps; set over fire and cook until frothy; add J^ cup cold milk and cook, stirring constantly until thick; season with Y2 teaspoon salt J/g teaspoon pepper; mix spinach and white sauce and heat thoroughly; turn onto a serving platter and flatten down with spoon. Place poached eggs on top, sprinkle with grated cheese, set in the oven a few seconds to partially melt cheese. Garnish with toast points and serve.
Scrambled Eggs
Scrambled eggs, when properly cooked, are a delicious creamy dish; if cooked at a high temperature they become a stringy mass which is neither palatable nor easily di- gestible. A very easy way to prepare scrambled eggs is to use the double boiler and cook the eggs over hot water. If the result is to be a creamy mixture, care must be taken not to cook them too long.
Scrambled Eggs with White Sauce
3^ cup of medium white sauce. Salt and pepper. 4 eggs.
Make sauce, then add eggs. Cook slowly, stirring constantly until creamy. Serve on toast.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [ 73]
Eggs and Asparagus
1 cup of asparagus tips. 4 hard cooked eggs.
1 cup medium white sauce.
Add asparagus tips to the white sauce; remove shell from eggs and cut in quarters; pour white sauce and asparagus tips on serving plate and arrange hard cooked eggs around the edge. Serve very hot.
Fried Eggs
To fry eggs use enough hot fat to baste the eggs as they are cooking, so that a delicate film will be formed over each egg. The fat should be hot, but not hot enough to brown the eggs at once or they will have a bitter, unpleasant flavor.
Eggs Benedict
For each egg allow 1 slice of cooked ham and 1 toasted English muffin or round slice of toast. Poach eggs. Put ham on toast, then poached egg; pour over all a well- seasoned white sauce.
Eggs Baked in Potato Gases
Bake medium sized potatoes. When cooked split down the center lengthwise and remove the pulp. Beat until creamy or press through a potato ricer; season with salt, pepper and butter, adding a little milk to moisten. Break an egg in each potato case, then heap the mashed potato mixture on top with a spoon or force through a pastry bag. Bake in a moderate oven about 20 minutes.
Baked Eggs with Mashed Potatoes
Butter a casserole or baking dish. Fill with hot mashed potatoes. With a tablespoon make 4 depressions, each to hold an egg; brush over with melted fat, and drop an egg into each. Set in a medium hot oven until eggs are set and potatoes brown.
[74] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Shirred Eggs Creole
Make the Spanish omelet mixture. Put a tablespoon- ful of this mixture in either a greased individual baking dish, or a large one; place the eggs on top of this sauce, season and place buttered crumbs over top of egg. Bake in a medium hot oven.
Eggs Marine
For each service allow 1 egg and 1 tablespoon of finely chopped cooked fish; grease custard cups, add fish, sprinkled with salt and chopped parsley. Beat egg, add 1 tablespoon of milk; pour over fish; set cups in a pan of boiling water and place in a moderate oven until eggs are firm. Turn out on a serving plate and pour a well-seasoned white sauce over all. Lemon juice should be added to the sauce for fish. Any cooked meat may be used for this dish.
Curried Eggs
4 hard cooked eggs. 1 teaspoon curry powder.
1 cup of medium white sauce. 1 teaspoon onion juice.
1 tablespoon shredded green 2 cups coolced rice, pepper.
Prepare the sauce, adding peppers, onion juice, rice and curry powder, which has been moistened and mixed with a little cold milk. Heat thoroughly. Remove eggs from shell, cut in quarters. Pour hot mixture into a serving plate and garnish with the eggs.
Stxiflfed Eggs
Hard cooked eggs (as many as desired); cut in halves lengthwise, remove yolks; to the yolks add salt, pepper, chopped, stuffed or ripe olives, and thick mayonnaise dressing. Re-fill the whites, place on lettuce leaves and garnish with mayonnaise. Serve as a salad or appetizer.
Eggs a la King
6 hard cooked eggs. 2 tablespoons shredded green
3^ cup finely minced chicken pepper.
or ham. 2 tablespoons shredded
13^ cups medium white sauce. pimento.
Prepare the white sauce; to this add the pimento and green pepper; cut eggs in halves lengthwise, remove yolk; mash, season and add the minced chicken; refill the egg
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [75]
white, piling the mixture high. The mixture can be easily forced through a pastry bag. Place stuffed eggs on a platter and pour the hot sauce over them. Serve at once.
Creole Eggs
1 cup tomato sauce. 1 teaspoon butter.
1 tablespoon chopped olives. 3^ teaspoon salt.
1 teaspoon onion juice. 3^ teaspoon pepper.
Mix well and simmer gently about 10 minutes. Grease 4 custard cups, break an egg into each one, sprinkle with finely chopped parsley and set the cups in a saucepan of boiling water; cover and steam about 10 minutes, turn onto a heated serving dish and pour sauce around them.
Baked Eggs with Cheese
Allow 1 thin slice of bread for each egg. Grease a baking pan, set slices of bread on bottom of pan, break egg into a saucer and carefully slip onto a slice of bread. Sprinkle egg generously with grated cheese, season with salt and pepper and bake in a moderate oven until eggs are set.
To Pack Eggs
Fresh, clean eggs covered with water glass solution and stored in a cool place will keep in good condition for about a year, and if not perfect for boiling, poaching or frying, will prove an economy during the winter for all other purposes. Eggs packed in a solution of water glass are much better than the cold storage eggs. For packing se- cure large fresh eggs. They must be clean, but do not wash them, as this removes the natural coating on the outside of the shell. The water glass commonly used is a syrup-thick liquid about the consistency of molasses. Only pure water should be used in making the solution, so it is best to boil it. Then cool before mixing with the water glass, using 1 part of the thick water glass to 9 parts of water. Measure accurately. Have the eggs carefully packed in clean earthenware crocks, glass jars, large kettles or wooden kegs or barrels. Be sure the container is sweet and clean. Cover with solution then cover container and store in a cool place. If kept in too warm a place silicate deposits on the shell, and the eggs will not keep well.
[76] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Omelets
The muscle building qualities of eggs are utilized to the fullest extent in omelets, and, prepared in this manner, furnish sufficient bulk to satisfy the appetite. Omelets of- fer an unlimited opportunity for variety in combination with other foods, and are suitable for the main course at luncheon or the informal home dinner, as well as for breakfast.
There are two classes of omelets, the French and the puffy. The last named is best suited for substantial omelets. This type of omelet is considered somewhat difficult to make, and for that reason few housewives attempt to make them. Only a few precautions are necessary, however, and when these are thoroughly understood there should be no difficulty in preparing a variety of attractive, palatable omelets. The foundation omelet will always be the same, but it will take its name from whatever food is used in combination.
For the foundation omelet there are a few points to carefully follow, and, if this is done, even the most inex- perienced housewife may be successful in producing a light, puffy omelet, which is delightful to behold, as well as to eat. Do not prepare the omelet until everything else to be served at the meal is in readiness, so that it can be carefully watched and served as soon as cooked. Put the frying or omelet pan over a very low fire to heat while preparing the omelet. For the "puffy" omelet a heavy pan will give better results, and do not allow the pan to get so hot that when the fat is added it will smoke and burn. The mixture is first cooked in the frying pan over a low flame. When a golden brown on the bottom finish cooking in a medium oven or in the broiler.
Never use more than 4 eggs for a "puffy" omelet. If a larger one is needed, make two omelets. Unless your pan is very large, you will not be able to cook a larger omelet successfully.
The main point to observe is to cook the omelet at a low temperature, otherwise it will not be thoroughly cooked, and if burned or even browned too much will have
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [77]
a bitter flavor. If not sufficiently cooked it will fall and be heavy, and if over-cooked it will shrink and become tough. The omelet should continue to rise and become a golden brown after going into the oven.
When cooked remove from the oven, cut across the center halfway through, then fold over and turn on a heated platter.
This gives the foundation omelet, which may be varied in a dozen different ways.
When eggs are beaten separately as for the pufFy omelet, the result will be a lighter but dryer omelet than when eggs are only slightly beaten together. For this reason a filling of creamy sauce or a tablespoonful of butter added just before folding add the desired moisture.
Small bits of left-overs can be folded into the mixture to give flavor; a tablespoon of chopped ham or other meats, free from fat, bone or gristle; shredded green pepper; cooked peas, asparagus tips, flaked fish, cooked rice, etc. When eggs are very high a cupful of soft bread crumbs may be soaked in milk, then added to the omelet to give a substantial dish, making the number of eggs used serve more persons.
A French omelet is cooked entirely in the frying pan over moderate heat. It is more of a breakfast omelet and does not lend itself to the variety possible with the pufFy omelet. It requires some skill to cook properly.
Water or milk may furnish the liquid. Water will produce a more tender omelet, while milk furnishes more nutriment.
Foundation Pufify Omelet
4 eggs, separated. }4 teaspoon salt.
4 tablespoons water or milk. 2 tablespoons shortening.
Beat egg whites until stiflF; yolks until creamy; add liquid and salt to yolks, mix well; combine mixtures, folding carefully together. Melt fat in a warm frying pan and when medium hot, pour in omelet. Cook until brown on the under side, then finish cooking in a medium hot oven or in the broiler until firm in the center. Cut across the center about halfway through, fold and turn onto a serving dish.
[78] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Cheese Omelet
2 tablespoons butter or 3^ cup grated or diced cheese,
substitute. 3^ teaspoon salt.
2 tablespoons flour. 4-egg puffy omelet. 1 cup cold milk.
Melt shortening, add flour, mix well, then cook until frothy and add milk. Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture begins to thicken, then add cheese and salt. Stir until cheese is melted, having a low fire. Set over hot water to keep warm until omelet is ready. Before folding omelet add a tablespoonful or two of the cheese mixture, then fold and turn on a heated platter and pour remaining sauce around the omelet. Additional seasonings may be added such as mustard, Worcestershire sauce or paprika.
Asparagus Tip Omelet
2 tablespoons butter or 3^ teaspoon salt.
substitute. About 2 cups asparagus tips.
2 tablespoons flour. 4-egg puffy omelet. 1 cup cold milk.
Melt butter, add flour, stir until well blended, cook until frothy, add milk and cook, stirring constantly, until creamy; add salt and asparagus tips. Before folding the omelet add some of the mixture, then fold and turn on a heated platter and pour remaining mixture around the omelet. Other cooked vegetables such as peas, etc., may be used in place of asparagus tips.
Italian Omelet
2 cups thick tomato puree. 1 tablespoon onion juice.
3^ teaspoon salt. 3^ cup grated cheese.
6 olives cut fine. 4:-egg puffy omelet.
Heat tomato puree, add salt, olives and onion juice. Pour mixture around the omelet and sprinkle over with grated cheese.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [79]
Oyster Omelet No. 1
3 tablespoons butter or }4 teaspoon salt.
substitute. Paprika.
3 tablespoons flour. 1 cup oysters.
1}4 cups cold milk. 4 egg puffy omelet.
Or use half milk and half
oyster liquor.
Melt butter, add flour, mix until smooth, then cook until frothy and add milk; cook, stirring constantly, until creamy; season and add oysters. Before folding omelet, add part of the creamed oyster mixture, then fold, turn onto a serving plate and pour remaining mixture around the omelet. Shrimps, crab or diced lobster may be used in the same manner.
Oyster Omelet No. 2
Use the 4-egg puffy omelet foimdation.
Add half a cup of chopped oysters to the beaten egg yolks, adding 4 tablespoons of the oyster juice and season. Fold in the well-beaten egg whites and cook as for pufFy omelet.
Ham Omelet
1 cup cooked minced ham. 4-egg puffy omelet.
Heat the ham in a double boiler. Add 2 tablespoons of the minced ham to the omelet before cooking. When omelet is cooked and before folding add remainder of the ham. Fold and serve.
Green Pepper Omelet
3 tablespoons finely shredded 4-egg puffy omelet, green pepper.
Pour boiling water over 1 whole green pepper and let stand 10 mmutes. Then remove seeds and shred. Add to omelet before cooking. Before folding omelet add 1 tablespoon of butter, then fold and serve.
Tomato Omelet
Use the 4-egg puffy omelet foundation.
When the omelet is ready to place in the oven, cover the top with sliced raw tomatoes, season, cover over with small bits of butter, then place in the oven and cook about 10 minutes. Fold and serve.
[80] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Spanish Omelet
1 onion, thinly sliced. 1 cup tomato sauce or strained
^ nl;ln^r° '^'^^^'^ ^'^^° ^*?Sspoon salt.
P^PP®^- Pepper to taste.
4 minced olives (green or ripe). 4-egg puffy omelet.
Fry the onion a golden brown in bacon or ham drippings, add tomato, green pepper and olives, simmer gently until onions are cooked. Before folding omelet add 1 or 2 tablespoons of this mixture, then fold and pour remainder of mixture around the omelet. Serve at once.
Other Combinations for Omelets
Creamed dried beef, creamed chicken or veal, creamed flaked fish.
Any of these ingredients and many more may be pre- pared in the usual manner with a white sauce and poured around the omelet, the advantage being an unusual dish, hearty and substantial, although the creamed food used in combination can consist of several varieties of left- overs.
French Omelet
2 eggs. 1 tablespoon of butter or sub-
2 tablespoons of warm water. stitute. }4, teaspoon of salt.
Heat butter in a very smooth frying pan. Beat eggs slightly, add water and salt. Pour into hot pan and set over a low fire; as the omelet cooks on the edges lift it up and allow the uncooked portion to run under that which is cooked. Continue until omelet is cooked, then roll like a jelly roll and remove to a hot platter.
Bread Omelet
^ cup bread cnmibs. 3^ teaspoon salt.
3^ cup milk. 1 tablespoon butter or
3 eggs slightly beaten. substitute.
Add bread crumbs to milk and soak 10 minutes. Beat eggs; add salt and baked bread crumbs. Heat butter in a smooth frying pan then pour in the mixture.
Cook over a low fire until a delicate brown on the under- side, then place in the oven or broiler and brown on top. Put a small piece of butter in the center and fold.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [81]
SWEET OMELETS Jelly Omelet
Use the pufFy omelet. Take a glass of jelly (currant preferred) and beat it with a fork. Before folding omelet spread jelly over the top, then fold, sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve. Jam, marmalade or fruit butters may replace the jelly. This makes a fine luncheon dish entree or may be used for dessert.
Strawberry Omelet
3 cups fresh berries. H teaspoon of nutmeg.
Sugar to taste. 4-egg puffy omelet.
Before preparing omelet wash and hull strawberries, add sugar and nutmeg and mash slightly. When omelet is cooked and before folding, add some of the strawberries, then fold and pour remaining strawberries around the omelet. Sprinkle omelet with powdered sugar and serve. This makes an appealing Sunday morning breakfast dish. Other fruits, fresh or cooked, may be used in the same manner.
Banana Omelet
'Use the 4-egg puffy omelet. Do not cook on top of the fire quite as long as the plain omelet. Have bananas sliced lengthwise very thin. Place slices close together over the top of the omelet, sprinkle with sugar and lemon juice. Place in a medium oven and bake until omelet is firm in the center and bananas are tender, about 10 minutes. Fold omelet and serve with whipped cream or a hot pudding sauce. An entree or dessert.
CHAPTER FIVE
FISH
MEAT
POULTRY
84] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Fish Cookery
ISH must be well cooked to be palatable and wholesome. It is cooked sufficiently when the flesh separates easily from the bones. Fish is always tender. It is most essential that fish should be perfectly fresh, thoroughly cooked, and care- fully cleaned. If under-done, it is not eatable; if cooked too long, it is dry and loses most of its flavor.
When perfectly fresh, the eyes of fish are bright and clear, the flesh is firm and odorless.
Fish may be divided into three clases, namely, white, oily and shell fish. The white and oily fish may be served in place of meat; and in general, the methods of cooking fish are the same as those used in meat cookery.
Slices of fish require but little attention. They should be carefully wiped with a damp cloth, or let the cold water from the faucet run over them, then wipe dry. Never allow fish to stand in water after it has been sliced. Whole fish, even when cleaned at the market, will require a thorough washing to remove all the blood from the inside of the backbone.
White fish is not so nourishing as oily fish. In this type of fish all of the oil is contained in the liver, making the flesh somewhat dry. A rich sauce usually accompanies fish of this kind to supply the lacking fat.
The oily fish, such as salmon, mackerel, etc., have the oil distributed throughout the flesh. Therefore this type of fish is more nourishing than the white fish. Both kinds are useful in the diet of the convalescent or persons suffering from indigestion, although the white fish is preferable for an invalid.
In composition, fish is much like meat; but unlike meat in that it must be eaten soon after it is killed, as it deteri- orates very quickly. It is difficult to keep fish in the house either before or after cooking, as the odor is very pene- trating and other foods absorb it. If put into the refriger- ator uncovered it contaminates all other foods. But if placed in a covered pail which is kept for this purpose, the odor will not penetrate to the other foods.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [85]
All of the various methods of cooking may be applied to fish — baking, frying, sauteing, boiling, steaming and broiling. The principal thing is to be sure that the fish is thoroughly cooked and still not over-cooked. It is really important to keep a set of utensils to use for cooking fish only, as the flavor is so distinct that even the most careful washing does not always remove it. A frying pan seems to be the most difficult utensil from which to remove this odor.
Frying, sauteing and broiling are the most popular methods of preparing fish. All fish are greatly improved for serving if the bones are removed. A boned fish, stuffed and baked, and served with a suitable sauce, is most appetizing and will usually be relished even by persons who ordinarily refuse fish.
Then, too, many attractive dishes can be made from the left-over fish, and to many persons these dishes appeal more than when the fish is freshly cooked.
It is less wasteful to steam fish than it is to boil it. However, it is possible when boiling to add flavoring which will make the fish more palatable. In boiling a fish add 1 teaspoon of salt and 1 tablespoon of vinegar to every 2 quarts of water and use enough water to entirely cover the fish. Vinegar tends to make the flesh firm. Soup vegetables, a clove or a bit of bay leaf may also be added to the water in which the fish is cooked. Do not pour cold water over the fish, as it will draw out the juices; have the water hot but not boiling, then bring to the boiling point and simmer gently until the flesh will leave the bones and is tender. Ten minutes' cooking may be allowed for each pound of fish, after the water has reached the simmering point.
Fish will hold its shape and can be handled easier if wrapped in a piece of cheese cloth before placing in the hot water. A rack or plate should be placed on the bottom of the kettle to prevent the fish from sticking and possibly burning. Always serve a salad (green preferred) with a French dressing or slices of lemon with all fish dishes. If sauces are used, they should be seasoned with lemon juice.
[86] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Shellfish
Shellfish are divided into two classes. Clams, oysters, scallops and mussels belong to one class, and lobsters crabs, shrimps and crawfish belong to another class.
Oysters are the most important of the shellfish, although shrimps are higher in food value. Both clams and oysters are more easily digested if eaten raw. With the exception of the lobster all fish are easy to digest, although the lean fish is more readily assimilated than the fat. The flesh of the lobster is coarse, dense and difficult of digestion.
Escalloped Fish
Place alternating layers of fish and soft bread crumbs in a buttered baking dish, covering the whole with milk or a thin white sauce. Season with salt and pepper and bake until firm. Variety may be given this dish by using tomato sauce instead of milk.
Fish Pie
Fill a baking dish with well-seasoned creamed fish, then cover with mashed potatoes and bake until potatoes are a golden brown.
Baked Fish with Stuffing
Prepare a bread stuffing, fill the opening two-thirds full and then sew firmly. Cut two or three gashes in the side of the fish and lay a piece of salt pork in each gash. Dredge fish with flour, sprinkle with salt and pepper, lay on a rack or a piece of cheese cloth in a baking pan. Bake 15 minutes for each pound of fish, basting fre- quently. The pork should supply sufficient fat for basting; if not, add a very little water.
Baked Fish
Chop 1 small onion and yi green pepper very fine, brush fish over with melted fat, place in the baking pan, pile the onion and green pepper on top, season well and bake. By baking on a piece of cheese cloth the fish can easily be removed from the pan without breaking.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [87]
Fillets of Fish
Wash and dry fillets. Season, roll in fine bread or cracker crumbs, dip in slightly beaten egg diluted with 1 tablespoon of cold water; dip in crumbs again, then fry in deep fat. Prepare all the fillets before beginning to cook any of them. Vegetable oil is the best fat to use for frying fish. Heat until a very slight trace of smoke can be seen, then test with a cube of bread. Drop bread in the fat and count 40. If the fat is right the bread will be a golden brown; if too hot it will be burned; if not hot enough it will not be brown. Test the fat each time before adding fish. Drain fried fish on brown paper. This is the best method for frying fish. It will be crisp and if the fat has been properly tested the fish will not be oily. Serve with Tartar sauce or slices of lemon.
Pan Fried or Sauteed Fish
Prepare the fish as for deep fat frying, then cook in a fry- ing pan in a small quanity of fat. If sauteed without crumb- ing, the fish will break easily and will not present an appe- tizing appearance. Salt pork adds flavor to the fish and is the best fat to use for sauteing.
Butter adds flavor but burns too easily.
To Boil Fish
Have water boiling. Add 1 teaspoon of vinegar to a quart of water, also a tablespoon each of chopped onion and carrot, a tiny bit of bay leaf and thyme. Lower the fish gently into the water and cook at the simmering point until tender. The time required is usually from 6 to 10 minutes for each pound of fish.
To Steam Fish
Season fish with salt, pepper, cover top with thin strips of salt pork and place on a plate. Set in a steamer over boiling water, cover closely and steam 10 to 12 minutes for each pound of fish.
[88] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
To Broil Fish
Wash fish, wipe dry and brush it over with melted butter or olive oil. Place on a double wire toaster or broiler and cook over hot coals or in the gas broiler. Turn every minute until both sides are a delicate brown. If gas broiler is used heat well before cooking fish, reducing the heat as soon as fish is placed in the broiler. Season with salt, pepper, a little onion or lemon juice.
Creamed Fish
For each cupful of diced or flaxed fish allow 1 cupful of well-seasoned white sauce. Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley or hard cooked egg. Serve in a casserole, ramekins or poured over toast points. Garnish with thin slices of lemon sprinkled with paprika.
Fish Croquettes
1 cup flaked or diced cooked 1 teaspoon lemon juice.
fish. 3^ teaspoon Worcestershire
1 cup of thick white sauce. sauce.
1 teaspoon onion juice. H teaspoon salt.
For white sauce melt 4 tablespoons of butter or sub- stitute; add 4 tablespoons of flour. Mix until well blended — return to the fire, cook until frothy, then add 1 cup of cold milk. Stir constantly until very thick. Season, add fish and pour onto a platter, spreading about an inch thick. Set aside to cool. When chilled shape into oblong croquettes, dip in crumbs, then in beaten egg diluted with 1 tablespoon of cold water; dip in crumbs again, then fry in deep fat. To test fat drop in a cube of bread; it should become a goden brown while you count 40. Drain on brown paper and serve with a tomato or white sauce.
Oyster Stew
2 cups of oysters. 2 cups of thin white sauce.
Cook oysters in their own liquor or water until the edges slightly curl.
Have w^hite sauce prepared and combine just before serving.
For white sauce melt 2 tablespoons of butter, add
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [89]
2 tablespoons of flour; mix until well blended, then cook until forthy and add 2 cups of milk or half milk and half oyster liquor. Season and serve.
Fried Oysters
Drain and dry oysters. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Beat 1 egg, add 1 tablespoon of cold water. Dip oysters in fine dry bread crumbs, then in the beaten egg, then in crumbs and fry in deep fat or pan fry in a hot frying pan in 2 tablespoons of fat. Test the deep fat with a cube of bread. It should become a golden brown while you count 60. Serve with lemon slices.
Oysters and Bacon
Drain and dry oysters. Roll each oyster in a slice of bacon and fasten with a tooth pick. Cook in a hot frying pan until bacon is crisp. Serve on toast.
Creamed Oysters or Clams
Follow directions for creamed fish. Creamed oysters can be used to fill patty shells.
Scalloped Oysters
Follow directions for scalloped fish.
Panned Oysters or Clams
Heat 2 tablespoons of butter or substitute in a heavy frying pan. Add 2 cups of drained oysters. Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Shake the pan con- stantly until the edges of the oysters are curled. Serve on buttered toast.
Steamed Clams
Clams should be bought alive in the shell. Wash well in several waters to remove all sand. Put into a large kettle. Allow y^ cup of boiling water for 2 quarts of clams. Cover kettle closely and steam until the shells are partially open. If liked a clove of garlic or an onion may be added for flavor. Serve with melted butter.
[90] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Lobster or Crab Newberg
2 cups diced lobster. 1 egg or 2 egg yolks.
2 tablespoons of butter or sub- 1 teaspoon lemon juice,
stitute. 3^ teaspoon salt.'
1 cup of thin cream or rich Nutmeg. milk. Paprika.
Melt the butter, add lobster and cook 2 minutes. Add cream, beaten egg and cook over hot water until thickened, stirring constantly. Add seasonings and serve.
Deviled Lobster or Crab
2 cups diced lobster. 3^ teaspoon salt.
l}/2 cups milk. 2 teaspoons lemon juice.
3 tablespoons butter or sub- 1 teaspoon Worcestershire stitute. sauce.
3 tablespoons fiour. 1 teaspoon finely chopped
^2 teaspoon mustard. parsley.
Melt butter, add flour; mix until well blended, cook until frothy; add milk; stir constantly until thickened. Mix seasonings and add with diced lobster. Put into ramekins or baking shells, cover with buttered crumbs and bake about 15 minutes or until a golden brown.
Salt Fish
All dried salt fish should be soaked for several hours in lukewarm water.
Creamed Codfish
The fish should be picked into small pieces; this is easier to do before the fish has been soaked. Drain, cover with lukewarm water and simmer 10 minutes. Prepare a white sauce as for creamed fish and garnish with slices of hard cooked eggs.
Fish Balls
1 cup of shredded cooked fish. 1 egg beaten slightly ; salt if V/2 cups mashed potatoes. necessary.
Mix, shape into balls; roll in flour. Heat 2 table- spoons of dripping or fat and fry the fish balls until a golden brown on each side.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [91
Meat
Meat is one of the chief sources of tissue building (pro- tein) food. Its food value is high, and so unfortunately is the price. The average American housewife serves meat at least once a day. If the amount of meat is reduced, other food equally nutritive must be substituted. The problem with most housekeepers at present is how to keep the meat bill down and still serve palatable meals. This requires careful study and should include a knowledge of the different cuts of meat, the amount of waste and quality. If these points are not understood, it is not possible to pur- chase to the best advantage. And most important, the marketing should be "personally conducted,' if the best results are to be obtained. To order by telephone often adds to the cost due to lack of details, such as thickness, exact weight or choice cuts, etc., which the dealer will not observe as carefully as the purchaser. Then again, the market man will probably take a personal interest in hold- ing your trade if he finds you know what you want, that you are familiar with the different cuts of meat and under- stand their qualities.
The best method of cooking meat depends entirely upon the tenderness, texture and flavor. The tenderness will depend upon the connective tissue; tender, fine grained meats are taken from the least muscular parts of the animal and tough, coarse fibered sections come from portions which are most used. One-fourth of the weight of a dressed beef consists of the tender meat, and all of these cuts are expensive. The less tender cuts are just as nutritious; in fact, many of the cheaper cuts have more food value than the tender meat, but require more atten- tion in their preparation. If cooked properly, these cheaper cuts will be found juicy and palatable.
The value of any cut of meat depends upon the quantity of waste, bone, gristle, etc. For example, the prime ribs are even higher than they seem, because the purchaser has to pay for so much bone; while some of the cheaper meats have so much waste in gristle, fat and bone that they would be equal in price to more tender cuts.
[92] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
All meat cookery is governed by two general principles. For tender, fine grained meats there should be intense heat, no liquid, and the meat should be seasoned after cooking. The high temperature sears the surface and keeps the juice from escaping. The meat is cooked quickly because, being tender, it would harden and become dry if it were allowed to remain in too great a heat for a long period. It is seasoned after cooking because the salt would tend to draw out the juices, which with tender meats is not de- sirable. Water is not added because it would cause steam, which would affect the brown, crisp surface of the meat. Plenty of fat instead of liquid should be used for basting.
Coarse, tough meats require quick surface searing, long, slow cooking and a small amount of water. The meat is seared in order to retain the greater part of the juices, and then cooked slowly in a small amount of water and closely covered; it may be seasoned during the cooking process. The meat when cooked should be juicy, due to searmg, and tender because of the slow cooking.
To understand which method to use is the secret of economy in meat cookery. The best and most expensive cuts of meat are selected for roasting, broiling or pan broiling. The cheaper or coarser portions are made into stews, soups, pot roast, braised or boiled. The cheaper cuts of meat are just as high in food value as the more tender ones, thus offering the housewife the necessary variety.
Meat which is dry and lean is much improved by the addition of pork fat, either salt or fresh. This may be added by placing thin strips over the upper surface of the meat, or strips of fat about half an inch thick can be in- serted through cuts made with a sharp pointed knife and extended clear through if possible. Or a larding needle may be used and strips of pork drawn through in stitches about an inch long. These stitches are taken at regular intervals over the entire surface of the meat. Take the strips of pork as near the rind as possible and cut length- wise with the rind.
Red meats, such as beef and mutton, are more stimulat-* ing than the white meat of poultry or veal. Beef is the most nutritious, mutton being second. Lamb and veal are
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [93]
less nutritious than the flesh of full-grown animals. Dried or smoked beef contains as much nutriment as the fresh meat, while corned beef loses in food value, the brine drawing out some of the juices. Meat is too expen- sive a food to be thoughtlessly purchased or carelessly- cooked, and the meat bill may be reduced by making more use of the less expensive cuts.
Roast Meat
Only the tender cuts of meat should be roasted. The following rules will apply to all roast meats:
Wipe meat with a damp cloth, do not wash. Dredge with flour and if the meat is not fat some fat should be added.
Place in a hot oven to sear the outer surface as soon as possible, thus preventing rich juices from escaping.
When the surface of the meat is brown, the heat of the oven should be reduced and the cooking continued more slowly.
A medium sized roast should be basted at least four times during the cooking, and at the last basting the salt and pepper may be added.
Beef and mutton are roasted IS minutes to the pound, veal and lamb 20 minutes.
Pork from 20 to 25 minutes.
An additional IS minutes must be added to the cooking for the length of time it takes to heat the meat through, so that the time allowed for each pound is really after the meat is thoroughly heated.
Perfectly roasted meat will be a rich brown on the sur- face. Beef and mutton should show a pinkish tint when sliced. Veal and lamb should show no pink. Mutton is encased in a thick skin which should be removed, as it will impart that peculiar flavor so objectionable to many. This skin is tough and when loosened at the edges can easily be pulled off.
[94] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Yorkshire Pudding to Accompany Roast.
^ cup milk. )4 cup sifted flour.
M teaspoon salt. 1 egg.
Add salt and flour to milk and beat with an egg beater until mixture is smooth; then add egg unbeaten and con- tinue to beat about 2 minutes. Do not prepare until roast is cooked. Remove meat from pan and place in a warming oven or cover to keep hot. rour batter in pan and bake about 15 minutes in a hot oven, basting with the fat in the pan after the first 5 minutes of cooking. Cut in squares, and use as a garnish with roast. This will not interfere with making a gravy if desired, although a fine cut of roast beef should be cooked so that the juice of the meat provides all the gravy needed.
Broiled Meat
Tender steaks, chops and cutlets, all fine grained meats may be broiled. They are cooked on the same general principles that apply to roast meat. They, too, must be subjected to an intense heat in order to sear the outer sur- face to prevent the loss of the rich juices. Have the broiler of a gas or lectric range very hot. If coal is used have a bed of hot coals with no flame. Rub broiler over lightly with fat. Wipe meat with a damp cloth; trim off all excessive fat and remove the skin from chops if the butcher has not done so. Reduce the heat of gas so there will be no danger of the meat catching fire. Place meat about 1 inch from the flame at first so that the meat will sear quickly. Cooking may be finished farther from the flame. Allow about 5 minutes for each side of a steak 1 inch thick if desired rare; longer if to be well done, or if the steak is more than an inch thick, watch very closely. Have the rest of the dinner completely cooked and ready to serve so that the meat can be served at once. Place on a hot platter, pour melted butter over the top and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper.
Pan Broiled Meats
Select only the tender cuts of meat. Heat a heavy frying pan very hot. Do not add fat; that on the meat is
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [95]
sufficient. Turn every 2 minutes until cooked. Place on a hot platter, pour over a little melted butter and season with salt and pepper.
Planked Steak
The meat is broiled just enough to sear the surface then placed in the center of a well-heated, slightly buttered plank. Mashed potatoes, vegetables, etc., must be pre- pared before the steak is broiled. Make a border on the edge of the plank of mashed potatoes forced through a pastry bag with a star tube, or arrange potatoes with a spoon. Brush potato with beaten egg. Place vegetables inside the potato border around the steak. Boiled onions, cauliflower, stuflfed tomatoes or peppers, asparagus tips, almost any vetegable is suitable. Place in a very hot oven until the potatoes are a golden brown and the steak has finished cooking. Chopped meat may be shaped like a steak, broiled and cooked on a plank. Put bananas cut in thirds lengthwise over the top of the meat and garnish as for steak.
Stuffed Steak
1 flank steak. ^ teaspoon sage.
1 cup soft bread crumbs. % teaspoon pepper.
}4 teaspoon salt. 2 tablespoons grated onion.
Mix crumbs and seasonings with 34 cup of melted butter or substitute. Place dressing in center of steak, roll and tie or skewer in shape. Dredge with flour, place a few strips of bacon or salt pork over the top and place in a moderately hot oven; baste several times. Serve with a brown gravy, to which a few dried mushrooms have been added; or serve with a horseradish sauce.
Broiled Flank Steak
Purchase a flank steak. Place a few strips of thinly sliced bacon over it, then roll up like a jelly roll and tie firmly every 2 inches. Cut into slices about an inch thick, so that each slice will be tied in the center. Broil on each side about 4 minutes in a hot broiler, then finish in a hot oven. Garnish with banana fritters or sauted bananas.
[96] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Pounded Round Steak
\yipe meat with a damp cloth. Cut into portions for individual service. With a wooden potato masher pound a tablespoonful or more of flour into each portion. The pounding breaks the tough connective tissue and the flour absorbs the juices. Cook in a hot frying pan in beef drippings.
Pot Roast
This method of cooking meat is for the less tender cuts. It is really a type of braising, only a heavy, closely covered kettle is used on top of the stove instead of using the oven. Wipe meat and dredge with flour. Heat the kettle thoroughly, add 2 or more tablespoonfuls of drippings; some of the beef suet may be rendered for this purpose.
Sear the entire surface of meat until crust is formed. Set a small wire rack on the bottom of the kettle, place the meat on the rack, add 1 cup of boiling water and cook under the boiling point for 3 or 4 hours or until meat is tender, about 40 minutes for each pound. When half cooked season with salt, pepper and an onion may be added or a bit of bay leaf and 2 or 3 whole cloves. Remove meat, to a hot platter. If any liquor remains pour off. Add 2 tablespoons of drippings to the kettle, add 2 tablespoons of flour, cook until brown, then add 2 cups of liquid; that which was left from the roast, and enough stock or water to make the required amount. Season with pepper, salt and a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, a liquid for seasoning and giving gravies and sauces a rich color.
Braised Beef
Braising is steaming meat in its own juices in the oven — a method suitable for solid pieces of meat not tender enough for roasting, but of better quality than those utilized in soups and stews. The retention of steam under a cover, together with basting with the broth, keeps the meat moist enough to permit the juices to flow, while the oven heat is intense enough to develop a rich flavor in both meat and broth.
Three pounds of beef from the lower part of the round,
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [97]
2 thin slices of fat salt pork, or drippings, % cup of carrot, turnip, onion and celery, or onion only if other vegetables are not available. Try out pork and remove scraps or melt drippings. Wipe meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and brown entire surface in hot fat. When turning meat, avoid piercing with fork or skewer, which allows the inner juices to escape. Place in deep heavy kettle or casserole, surround with vegetables and 3 cups of boiling water, add 2 whole cloves and a tiny bit of bay leaf; cover closely and cook about 4 hours in a very slow oven, basting every half hour and turning after the second hour. Throughout the cooking the liquid should be kept below the boiling point.
When cooked remove the meat and strain the liquid remaining; remove vegetables, which are used for flavoring only. For each cupful of liquid allow 1 level tablespoon- ful of flour and 1 tablespoonful of beef dripping. Melt the fat, add flour, mix until smooth, then cook until frothy and add liquid and stir until mixture thickens. Several olives, green or ripe, or a tablespoonful of horseradish may be added to the sauce. If the water has not been allowed to boil, there should be sufficient liquid to make the sauce.
Casserole of Beef
Cut round steak or flank in pieces about 2 inches square; roll in flour and let brown in salt pork fat or drippings; remove to a casserole and add broth or hot water to cover; add more fat to the pan and in it brown a small onion for each service, add these to the casserole; cover and let cook about 2 hours, or until nearly tender. Cut 3 potatoes and
3 carrots in cubes; parboil 5 minutes, then brown in a frying pan, add to meat ^2 hour before serving together with seasoning of salt and pepper. Serve from the baking dish or in individual casseroles.
Boiled Beef
Add meat to rapidly boiling unsalted water sufficient to cover. Reduce heat at once, cover closely and cook below
[98] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
the boiling point or at the simmering point until meat is so tender it almost breaks to pieces. Allow about 45 minutes cooking for each pound of meat. Drain and serve with a horseradish sauce. A very tough, inexpensive piece of meat can be made very palatable cooked in this manner. Sliced onions, carrots, etc., may be added to the water to impart flavor to the meat.
Brown Beef Stew with Dumplings
Remove all fat and gristle from 1>^ pounds of beef; cut into cubes. Dredge meat with flour. Heat 3 tablespoons of fat and add 1 small onion minced fine. Add meat and fry until well browned. Add 3 cups of boiling water and salt and pepper to taste. Cover closely and cook at simmering point about 2 hours. Fifteen minutes before stew is to be served add dumplings; cover closely and steam 12 minutes. For dumplings take 1 cupful of sifted flour, 2 teaspoons of baking powder, yi teaspoon of salt and about Vi cupful of milk. Sift dry ingredients and add milk slowly, beating until smooth. Drop by spoonfuls over top of steaming hot stew, cover closely and steam 12 minutes.
Corned Beef or Boiled Dinner
Wipe meat and put in a kettle. Cover with cold water and bring very slowly to the boiling point. Remove all scum and reduce heat to simmering. Cook until tender; it usually takes about 1 hour for each pound of corned beef. Prepare cabbage, turnips, carrots and potatoes for boiling, cut cabbage into eighths, removing all tough outer leaves. Cut carrots in halves and the turnips and potatoes in sizes to correspond with the carrots. Remove the cooked corn beef to a casserole or covered kettle to keep hot. Take fat off of the top of the water the beef was cooked in; bring to the boiling point, add vegetables and cook until tender, allowing about 25 minutes. Do not overcook cabbage; it should hold its shape. Place meat on a hot platter, surround with potatoes, turnips, and carrots. Serve cabbage in a separate dish.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [99]
Lamb
Breast of lamb, while rather wasteful in appearance, is one of the most economical parts of the animal. It is always less in price than the loin or leg, and can be used in many different ways. The small, soft bones add flavor to this particular cut, which is not the case in any other cut of lamb. It may be stuffed and baked or breaded and baked, serving with a tomato sauce or made into a stew.
Roasted Breast of Lamb
Remove the outer skin from a breast of lamb and score in the direction of the rib bones, in pieces for serving. Dredge with flour, place 2 or 3 slices of salt pork or bacon over the top and place in a moderately hot oven. Turn so that all the surface will be well browned, reduce heat and cook until tender, basting several times. Serve with a tomato sauce.
Lamb Stew
Take 2 pounds of breast of lamb cut in small pieces for serving. Dredge with flour and fry a golden brown in hot drippings. Place in a covered saucepan or casserole, sprinkle with salt and pepper and cover with strained tomatoes. If one quart can is not suflftcient, add boiling water. Cover closely and cook slowly under boiling point until meat is tender. Can be cooked in the oven or on top of the stove. An hour before serving parboil 6 very small onions 5 minutes in boiling water. Add to meat, also 1 cupful of cooked peas, cook until onions are tender. Thick- ening should not be necessary, but if the sauce is too thin, remove meat and vegetables to a hot platter and thicken the sauce with flour and water which has been well blended and strained. One tablespoon of flour should be sufficient.
Boiled Lamb or Mutton
Remove all the tough outside skin. Cover with boiling water and let boil 5 minutes, simmer until tender, about 15 minutes for each pound; add salt and pepper when meat is half cooked. Serve with a caper sauce. The liquid remaining should be allowed to cool, then remove all fat. Heat slowly and simmer until reduced one-third.
[100] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Finely chopped onion or soup vegetables may be added about an hour before serving. Also a cupful of cooked pearl barley or rice. This makes a very palatable soup.
Breaded Lamb Chops
Wipe with a damp cloth and trim off all fat; sprinkle with salt and pepper; dip in fine bread crumbs then in egg which has been beaten and had 1 tablespoonful of cold water added. Dip in crumbs again. Fry in deep fat about 8 minutes (see deep fat frying) or melt 3 tablespoons of drippings in a heavy frying pan and cook until crisp on both sides.
Breaded Veal Cutlets
Wipe with a damp cloth. Place in a frying pan, cover with boiling water and simmer about 10 minutes. Drain, dry, dip in fine bread crumbs, then in slightly beaten egg diluted with 1 tablespoonful of cold water; dip in crumbs again and fry in deep fat (see deep fat frying) or cook in melted drippings in a heavy frying pan until brown on each side.
For cooking veal follow any of the recipes for cooking lamb.
Shoulder of Pork
Have bones removed from the shoulder of a young pig. Make a dressing by mixing 2 cups of soft bread crumbs, seasoned with ^ teaspoon each of salt, pepper, sage and a little chopped celery; moisten with M cup of melted butter and fill the space where the bone was removed. Take a few stitches with a larding needle to hold the dress- ing in place; dredge the meat with flour and place in a moderate oven; baste frequently. Peel an apple for each service. For 6 apples make a syrup of 1 cup each of sugar and water; cook the apples in the syrup, turning often and taking care not to break. When tender, remove to a pan, sprinkle with sugar and brown in the oven. Use as a garnish for the pork.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [101]
Baked Ham
Scrub a medium sized ham and soak in cold water over night. In the morning drain, cover with fresh cold water and bring slowly to the simmering point. Cook until tender or until a fork will pierce it easily. Take from kettle, remove all skin and trim off all undesirable portions. Stick the fat portion full of whole cloves and cover with brown sugar. Return to a moderate oven to brown.
The ham may be boiled a day before required. It will take about 1 hour to reheat in the oven. A choice ham will of course be the best, but the small picnic hams or shoulders are inexpensive and cooked in this manner will be found very palatable.
Tripe and Sweetbreads
There are two varieties of meat that are first made tender by long slow cooking and then broiled. These are tripe and sweetbreads. Tripe is usually inexpensive while sweetbreads are considered a delicacy and bring a high price in most localities. Tripe may be purchased fresh or pickled. It should be covered with boiling water and slowly simmered until tender; then it is ready for the various methods of preparation.
Sweetbreads spoil very quickly and should be cooked the day they are purchased. Soak in cold water at least an hour, changing the water several times; remove skin, veins, etc., cover with boiling salted water, add 1 teaspoon- ful of lemon juice or vinegar and let simmer until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain, cover with cold water for 10 minutes, then wipe dry and they are ready to use for the various dishes.
Broiled Sweetbreads
Cut the cooked sweetbreads in halves lengthwise and brush over with melted butter and broil, having a moderate heat, about 5 minutes. Turn several times and baste with melted butter at least once. Place on a hot platter spread with creamed butter to which 1 tea- spoonful of lemon juice has been added.
[102] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Broiled Tripe
Cut cooked tripe in pieces for serving. Brush over with melted butter, dip in fine bread crumbs and set on a well- greased broiler. Cook about 6 minutes, turning twice. Spread with creamed butter seasoned with a little lemon juice.
Braised Beef Tongue
Use a fresh tongue. Place in a deep kettle, cover with boiling water and simmer for about 2 hours. Take from kettle and remove skin, roots, etc. Place in a deep baking pan and surround with % cupful each of diced carrots, onion and celery.
Melt 3 tablespoons of drippings or butter; add 3 table- spoons of flour and cook together until well browned. Add 3 cupfuls of the water in which tongue was cooked. Stir until thick, then season with salt, pepper, a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce and 3 tablespoons of finely chopped sour pickles. Pour sauce over the tongue, cover closely and bake in a moderate oven about 2 hours. Serve on a hot platter and strain the sauce into a bowl. The vegetables are added for flavor only.
Kidney Saute
Split kidneys in halves and remove all fat and tissue. Cover with cold water and heat over a moderate fire to the scalding point. Do not boil. Drain and cut into small pieces. Again cover with cold water and scald. Drain. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter or substitute, add 2 table- spoons of flour and cook until brown. Add 1 cup of water in which the kidneys were scalded or 1 cup of stock. Cook until somewhat thickened, then season with pepper and salt, 1 teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce and the kid- neys. Stir until heated and pour over slices of toast cut in triangles.
If kidneys are cooked rapidly, they become very tough. Cooked a very short time they will be tender, or they may be cooked a very long time and then will be satisfactory. They first become tough, but the long slow cooking makes then tender again.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [103]
Bacon
Have bacon cut in very thin slices and lay on the wires of a toaster or double broiler. This will keep each piece flat. Set over a pan in a moderate oven and cook until browned and crisp. Serve at once. The bacon may be fried in a frying pan. Turn often and have only a moderate heat.
Liver and Bacon
Pour boiling water over slices of calves liver and let stand about 5 minutes. Drain and dry each slice and dip in flour. Heat 4 tablespoons of bacon fat and fry the liver until brown on each side. Have only a moderate heat. If cooked too fast or too long, liver will be tough and tasteless.
• Broiled or Fried Ham
Cover ham slices with boiling water and simmer 10 minutes. Drain, dry and pan broil or cook in the broiler until a delicate brown. Have only a moderate heat. Cooked too fast and too long ham is hard and tough.
[104] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Selecting and Preparing Poultry and Game
The proper selection of poultry is not an easy task. It re- quires experience, and usually it is necessary to depend somewhat upon the judgment and honesty of the dealer. In making a selection, see that the flesh is firm and that there is a fair amount of fat underneath the skin. The fat should be a yellow color. An overfat bird is not economical and, owing to the flesh being greasy, it is less digestible and delicate in flavor.
When fresh and in good condition, the skin of a turkey should look clear and unwrinkled. When young, all poultry should have a flexible breast bone, smooth, pliable legs and soft feet. If the spurs are large, the legs hard, feet scaly, breastbone rigid and with long hairs, the bird is no longer young.
The question of age and toughness aff'ect its palatability rather than the nutritive value. In fact, a tough old bird may be steamed or fricasseed and be found very delicious.
Be careful to note that poultry is free from all dis- coloration and that the eyes are clear. Long, thin, purplish necks also denote age. Chickens and fowl have certain characteristics which make them easily distin- guishable. Chickens have soft feet, flexible breast bone, many pin feathers and a very small quantity of fat; fowls have hard and scaly feet, a rigid breast bone, long hairs and a large amount of fat.
When a chicken is to be fried or roasted, the question of tenderness is of great importance. The size of a chicken usually indicates its age. The broiler will be small and more tender than the frying chicken, and the frying chicken smaller and more tender than the one for roasting. The more flexible the breast bone the more tender the bird.
Young tame ducks have yellow feet and bills. As they become older these turn darker and become red. The wild duck has small reddish feet, either young or old. The legs of a young bird will be smooth and the webbing of the feet soft.
The legs of geese should be pliable and yellow and the webbing of the feet soft. The bill also should be pliable,
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [105]
the breast plump and the skin smooth. Geese should always be eaten young.
If the birds have not been dressed by the market man, it will be necessary to attend to these details. If freshly killed, a turkey should be kept for at least 3 or 4 days before cooking, or the flesh will not be white and tender. It should not be dressed until it is to be prepared for cooking.
When dressing poultry, first of all remove all pin feathers. This may be easily accomplished with a pair of broad tweezers. Then carefully singe the bird, turning constantly so that it will be thoroughly singed in every part. Remove the head, then crop attached to the gullet, and the windpipe may be drawn out of the neck opening. It is usually not necessary to make a slit in the neck, and this should be avoided, as the bird will make a much better appearance if it is to be roasted. Cut off about 2 inches of the neck, so that the skin may be folded back.
The neck trimmings should be saved for making stock for gravy or soup. The tendons should be removed from the legs, for when cooked they form a disagreeable hard substance. To remove, carefully make an inch slit length- wise through the skin below the knee joint and at one side; on laying open the skin, the tendons, white, shiny cords, will be seen. Slip a skewer or large nail under each one and pull them out. If the bird is old this will be found a little hard to do.
Never allow the tradesman to cut ofF the legs of poultry, for then the tendons cannot be removed.
When tendons have been removed cut ofFthe feet. Make a 2-inch incision near the vent, insert two fingers and care- fully loosen the entrails. When all are loose, grasp the hardest subtance, the gizzard, and pull it out. Every- thing else will come with it, but be careful not to press any- thing; then there will be no danger of breaking the gall bladder. Insert the hand and remove the spongy sub- stances which lie under the breast in cavities; the kidneys will be found in similar cavities down the backbone.
Let cold water run through the bird until it is thoroughly cleaned; then dry thoroughly and stuff at once.
In cutting a bird for a fricassee, have sharp knives. Cut
[106] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
off the legs at the first joint, then separate at the second one. This is easily done if the legs are bent. Cut ofF wings and disjoint them. Separate breast bone from the back, divide back in 4 pieces, slit down the breast, cutting it in two. Each of these pieces may be cut in halves.
To stuff and truss poultry for roasting, first put a little stuffing in the neck and fill in where the crop has been re- moved. Fold over the skin of the neck to the back and fasten with a small skewer or sew in place with a trussing needle. Then stuff the bird ^ full through the incision made in drawing. Tuck the tail into the opening and sew firmly into place. Now remove the oil bag by cutting around it with a sharp knife.
If too much stuffing is used there will be no allowance for swelling and it might burst through.
Pinion the wing close to the side and run a skewer through each side or a threaded trussing needle through the wing and bird to the other wing. Take a stitch to hold firmly and then run needle back through the bird again and tie the thread so it may easily be removed. This will hold the wings in place. Fasten the legs in the same manner.
To prepare the giblets wash the heart and cut it in two lengthwise. The gall bladder is a little green sack attached to the liver. Great care should be taken not to break it, as it contains a very bitter substance. Cut through the thick part of the gizzard, empty it and pull out the tough inside skin. Put the giblets and trimmings from the neck in a quart of boihng water. Cook until tender; then chop giblets fine, strain the stock and use for a sauce or gravy, adding the chopped giblets.
To cut chicken for stewing or frying; After dressing remove tendons, pin feathers and the oil bag. Cut through the flesh at the thigh, bend back legs and cut off. Separate second joint and drum stick. Remove wings and cut oflF the tips. Cut through the ribs to separate back from breast. Cut breast in two with a heavy knife or cleaver.
Roast Turkey
Dress, stuff and truss a 10 to 12 pound turkey. Mix ]/^ cup of butter or butter substitute with J/2 cup of flour,
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [107]
cream well and rub the entire surface of the turkey with the mixture. Place in a large roasting pan and put into a hot oven. When the surface of the turkey begins to turn a delicate brown, reduce to a moderate heat. Baste every 15 or 20 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of butter to a cup of boiling water and use for basting. Allow about 30 minutes' cooking for every pound of turkey. However, the time will depend largely upon the age of the bird. Old turkeys take long, slow cooking.
Braised Turkey
This method is suitable for an older, somewhat tough turkey. Prepare the bird as for roasting and with any desired dressing. Place several tablespoons of beef drippings or salt pork fat in the pan and allow it to melt. Then add a layer of the following vegetables cut in dice: Carrots, celery, onions, turnips and, if liked, one cup of tomato puree. Place the turkey on the vegetables and add enough stock or hot water to cover the vegetables only. Cover and cook in a moderate oven until the bird is tender. The time required will depend on the size and age of the fowl. Turn at least twice during the cooking. When cooked remove cover, dredge with flour and brown. Strain the stock, thicken and serve as a sauce.
Roast Chicken
Singe, dress, wash and dry a young chicken. Prepare a celery dressing of 2 cups dry bread crumbs, 3^ cup melted butter, y2 cup diced celery, 1 teaspoonful salt, >^ teaspoon- ful pepper and >^ teaspoonful powdered sage. Stuff chicken, truss and rub over with olive oil or melted butter, dredge with flour and let roast until tender in a moderate oven, basting every 15 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of butter to a cupful of hot water for basting. Serve with giblet sauce. As roast chicken is apt to be somewhat dry, it should be basted often or cooked in a double roaster.
Chicken Fricassee
Cut through the flesh of the chicken at the thigh; bend back legs and cut oflF. Separate second joint and drum-
[108] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
stick. Remove wings and cut off tips. Cut through the ribs to separate back from breast. Cut back into 3 pieces and breast in 2 parts. Roll each piece of chicken in flour, sprinkle with salt, and brown in melted chicken fat or salt pork. When each piece is a delicate brown remove to a sauce pan, add 1 cup of water to the pan and cook 5 min- utes. Pour over chicken with enough more boiling water to cover. Cook, closely covered, at the simmering point until chicken is tender. Remove chicken from kettle with a skimmer. Remove fat from liquid and add 1 cup of rich milk (more if needed). Allow IJ^ tablespoons of flour for each cupful of liquid. Mix to a smooth paste with cold water, strain and add to stock and cook until thickened. "Season with salt and pepper. Pour over chicken and serve with hot biscuits or dumplings.
Chicken Casserole
Cut up chicken as for fricassee. Roll each piece in flour, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place in a casserole and just cover with boiling water. Cook in a slow oven until chicken is tender. Add 1 cup of rich milk or thin cream, thicken slightly and serve. For thickening allow 1^ tablespoons of flour for each cup of liquid.
Chicken Pie
Cut chicken as for fricassee. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and roll in flour. Fry until a golden brown, then cover with boiling water or stock, and gently simmer until tender. Remove chicken to a baking dish, remove fat from stock, thicken, allowing 1}^ tablespoons of flour for each cupful of liquid. Cover chicken with gravy and place a flaky pastry on top. Bake in a hot oven. The chicken may be prepared a day in advance and set away in a cool place until required. If preferred all bones may be removed after chicken is cooked, then add to gravy and place on pastry.
Stewed Chicken
Cut chicken up and cover the pieces with boiling water. Simmer until tender, adding salt when half cooked. Re- move chicken to a hot platter and thicken the liquid,
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [109]
allowing 1>^ tablespoons of flour for each cup of stock. Mix to a smooth paste with cold water and strain. Cook 10 minutes. Pour over chicken or return chicken to kettle and make drop dumplings.
Oven Cooked Young Chicken
Split young frying chicken or broilers. Dredge with flour. Place in a baking pan and dot with butter or strips of salt pork. Bake in a hot oven until a golden brown.
Fried Chicken
Unless very young and tender, chicken should first be stewed before frying. Drain and dry then sprinkle with salt and dip each piece in flour, then in slightly beaten egg diluted with 1 tablespoon of cold water; dip in flour again and fry in hot chicken fat, salt pork or butter.
Chicken Maryland
Prepare chicken as for fried chicken. When chicken is cooked remove to a hot platter. Make a sauce of 3 table- spoons of butter melted in the pan the chicken was cooked in. Add 3 tablespoons of flour. Mix until blended but not brown, add 2 cupfuls of rich milk or chicken stock; stir until creamy. Season with salt and pepper and pour around the chicken or serve in a separate bowl. Garnish with strips of bacon and corn fritters.
Chicken Paprika
Fry chicken and surround with paprika sauce. Garnish with toast points.
Roast Duck
Dress in the same manner as for chicken, wash well with salted water. Truss into shape with a larding needle or skewers.
Place several stalks of celery inside the bird and set in a very hot oven. The time required for cooking is 18 minutes if liked rare to 40 minutes if desired well done. There is a diff"erence of opinion as to whether ducks should be salted before or after cooking. It is really a matter of taste.
[110] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Celery Dressing
2 cups dry bread crumbs. 1 cup chopped celery. Salt and pepper to taste. % cup melted butter ]4 teaspoon grotmd sage. or substitute.
1 teaspoon onion juice.
Mix in order named.
Chestnut Dressing
3 cups chestnuts. Salt and pepper.
13^ cups dry bread crumbs. % cup melted butter or
1 cup finely choped celery. substitute.
Cook chestnuts in salted water to cover until shells may be removed. Mash, add remaining ingredients.
Oyster Stuffing
V/2 cups soft bread crumbs. 1 tablespoon salt.
\i cup butter or substitute l^ teaspoon pepper,
melted. 2 cups oysters.
1 tablespoon chopped parsley. i^ cup oysters liquid.
2 tablespoons lemon juice.
Put crumbs in a bowl, add butter, parsley, salt, pepper, lemon, oysters, cut in halves, add oyster liquid. Mix well before placing in fowl.
Plain Bread Stuffing
2 cups soft bread crumbs. ^ teaspoon ground sage.
3^ teaspoon salt. 2 teaspoons grated onion.
^ teaspoon pepper. Enough melted butter to mois-
yi teaspoon groimd thyme. ten.
Prune Dressing
(For Roast Goose.)
2 cups primes (cooked). ]/2 cup melted butter.
3^ cup rice. l^ teaspoon salt.
6 large chestnuts. 3^ teaspoon pepper.
Cook rice until tender and dry in 2 cups of boiling water and juice from prunes. Add prunes (stoned and cut in quarters), chestnuts (blanched and chopped), butter, salt and pepper. Mix well.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [111]
Giblet Sauce
Pour ofF liquid in pan in which turkey or chicken was roasted. From this liquid skim 5 tablespoons of fat; return fat to roasting pan and add 5 tablespoons of flour, stirring until smooth and brown; gradually add 3 cups of stock in which giblets were cooked. Stir until thick, season and add the giblets finely chopped.
CHAPTER SIX
SOUFFLES TIMBALES MEAT SUBSTITUTES CHEESE DISHES USE OF LEFT-OVERS TWICE COOKED MEATS DEEP FAT FRYING CROQUETTES
1141 MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Souffles
SOUFFLE is in reality a baked omelet in which the eggs have been beaten separately. The air which has been incorporated into the egg whites causes the mixture to pufF up. The general impression that they are difficult to make gives this dish a certain dis- tinction. However, there is no reason why anyone should not be able to make a perfect souffle if the oven is carefully managed.
Souffles should go directly from the oven to the table, and it is a wise precaution to cover the souffle while carry- ing it to the table so that the cooler air of the room will not make it fall. The plain omelet souffle is the most difficult to make. Those made with a cooked foundation (a thick white sauce) do not fall so readily. The whites of eggs must be beaten until filled with air and should be folded in- to the mixture, not stirred or beaten. The souffl6 is then placed in a moderate oven, where the heated air expands and puffs up the whole mixture. The baking is con- tinued until the air cells are hardened enough to support its weight and the souffle must be served at once before the enclosed air cools, which causes the souffle to collapse.
When sufficiently baked the souffle will feel dry and firm, like a sponge cake. Deep ring molds are very attractive for vegetable souffles. They may then be turned out on a serving dish and the center filled with creamed fish, sweetbreads, mushrooms or chicken. The vegetables are always previously cooked and either mashed or put through a puree strainer.
Souffles may be divided into two classes, savory and sweet souffles. The savory souffle offers a variety of luncheon and dinner dishes in which many left-overs can be utilized. The savory souffles can be made entirely of eggs and vegetables or may have a thick white sauce as a foundation, making them much more substantial and also easier to bake. The fruit souffles are made of eggs and fruit pulp.
All souffles, whether sweet or savory, should be served with a sauce of some kind. When mixtures contain a num-
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [115]
ber of eggs beaten separately, they are usually dry, and need a sauce to furnish moisture.
Bake souffles in an ungreased dish (except when using a ring mold where it is removed from the pan), set in a pan of hot water, keeping water below the boiling point. Serve from the dish in which it was baked.
Timbales offer a very satisfactory way to use small quantities of cooked food. They are really a savory cus- tard. Timbales are cooked by poaching and are unmolded before serving.
Spinach Souffle or Ring
2 tablespoons of butter or sub- H cup grated or finely cut
stitute. cheese.
2 tablespoons flour. Y^ teaspoon salt.
3^ cup milk. y^ teaspoon paprika.
1 cup finely chopped spinach, or Few grains ot nutmeg or mace, spinach puree. 3 eggs separated.
Melt butter, add flour, mix until smooth, and cook until frothy; then add cold milk, stir constantly, until quite thick; add cheese, spinach, beaten yolks and season- ings; fold in stiffly beaten egg whites, pour into a baking dish, set dish in hot water and bake in a moderate oven about 30 minutes.
Very attractive if baked in a ring mold and the center filled with creamed sweetbreads, shellfish, or chicken. If the souffle is to be unmolded it must be baked in a buttered form. Before unmolding let stand a few seconds after removing from the oven. To test run a sharp knife through the center. If it comes out clean, the souffle is cooked. If not cooked sufficiently, the souffle will fall. Any vegetable may replace the spinach.
Ham, Chicken or Fish Souffle
2 tablespoons of butter or sub- 3^ teaspoon salt.
stitute. y^ green pepper finely chopped
2 tablespoons flour. (may be omitted).
1 cup milk. 3 eggs separated.
^ cup soft bread crumbs. 1 cup finely chopped ham or
chicken or flaked fish.
Melt butter, add flour, mix well and cook until frothy, then add milk and stir constantly until thickened. Add
[116] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
bread crumbs, ham, seasonings and well-beaten egg yolks. Remove from fire and fold in the stiffly beaten whites of eggs. Pile in a baking dish, set in pan of hot water and bake in a moderate oven about 30 minutes. Cooked vege- tables, such as peas or asparagus tips, may also be added to these souffles. In that case put a layer of the souffld in the baking dish, then a layer of the vegetable, then souffle until all is used. Serve with a suitable sauce. This type of souffle may also be baked in a ring mold and the center filled with creamed vegetables. These combina- tion dishes are very attractive for guest luncheons.
Potato Souffle
2 cups well seasoned hot 1 teaspoon parsley, mashed potatoes. Few grains mace or nutmeg.
1 tablespoon butter. 3^ cup of grated cheese.
3 eggs separated.
Melt butter in a saucepan, add mashed potatoes, seasonings and well beaten yolks; beat all together, then fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites. Bake in a rather quick oven. Cheese may be omitted. This souffld is not so delicate, so can be baked without the hot water.
Asparagus Souffle
2 tablespoons butter. 1 cup asparagus puree. 2 tablespoons flour. }4 cup asparagus tips. 3^ teaspoon salt. }4 cup grated cheese. }4 cup of milk. 3 eggs separated.
Melt the butter, add flour, mix until smooth, then cook until frothy, add milk and asparagus puree. Cook until thick, then add beaten egg yolks and cheese. Fold in the asparagus tips, and the whites of the stiffly beaten eggs. Pour into a baking dish or individual molds, set in a pan of hot water and bake in a moderate oven until firm.
Carrot Ring
One cup cooked carrots rubbed through a coarse sieve; ^2 cup thick white sauce; 3 eggs, beaten separately; ^ teaspoon salt; J^ teaspoon pepper.
Combine carrots and white sauce; add seasonings. Beat
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [117]
eggs separately; add yolks, then fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites. Pour into a buttered ring mold; stand in pan of hot water and bake in a moderate oven until firm. Re- move from pan of hot water and let stand two or three minutes, then turn out on a serving platter. Fill the center with creamed veal, fish or chicken. Any vegetable pulp may be used in the same manner, adding seasoning suitable to the particular vegetable.
Thick White Sauce
]/2 cup milk. 2 tablespoons flour.
2 tablespoons butter or 3^ teaspoon salt,
substitute.
Melt butter, remove from fire, add flour and stir until well blended. Set over fire, cook until frothy, then add cold milk and stir constantly until very thick. Add salt. Foundation sauce for souffles.
Savory Timbales
2 tablespoons butter. 1 cup milk.
^ cup bread crumbs. 1 egg.
1 cup chopped meat or fish Salt and pepper.
(veal, chicken, ham). 1 teaspoonful of grated onion.
Melt butter, add bread crumbs and milk, cook about 5 minutes, stirring constantly; add chopped meat and egg, beaten slightly; season and turn into well-greased custard cups or muffin pans; set in a pan of hot water and bake in a moderate oven about 20 minutes or until firm in the center. Do not allow the water to boil.
After removing from the oven let stand a few seconds before turning from the molds. Serve with a sauce suitable for the kind of meat used. Different seasonings, such as chopped olives, pimentoes or mushrooms, may be added. Combinations of meat and vegetables also can be used.
Vegetable Timbales
Follow the recipe for savory timbales, using 1 cupful of mashed pureed vegetables.
118] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Meat Substitutes
The meat course can easily be dispensed with by making attractive vegetable, egg or cheese dishes. Most doctors and dietitians claim that the average American family eat more meat than is required, so why not plan to have at least one dinner a week meatless? It will usually be found less expensive and the household would be benefited also.
Of course, the family must be supplied with food fully as valuable to the diet as meat, and in order to accomplish this the housewife must understand a few fundamental principles governing the proper selection and combinations of food.
The average housekeeper will hold up her hands in despair when food values are suggested, and to many the subject seems too scientific to grasp, and in a measure this is true. However, the following guide is not at all compli- cated, and the progressive housewife of today will do much better when planning meals, meatless or otherwise, if she thoroughly understands these principles.
The body needs material to build up and repair the wear and tear caused by activity, also fuel to burn, making ac- tivity possible.
Protein is a distinct repairing or tissue building material, and is found in quantities in meat, fish, eggs, cheese, milk and nuts.
Carbohydrates (sugar and starches) and the fats furnish the fuel for activity, and include sugar, molasses, honey, ripe and dried fruits, starchy vegetables, and cereals.
Foods rich in both protein and carbohydrates are peas, beans, lentils, oatmeal and wheat products; this includes all breads.
The body also requires mineral salts, which are supplied mainly in the various green and dried vegetables, fresh and dried fruits. Bulk or quantity is furnished also in the last named foods.
This, of course, only touches very briefly on the subject of food values, but a comprehensive understanding of just these few principles will prove helpful when planning meals, and a properly balanced meal need not be a complicated,
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [119]
difficult one to prepare, but may be of the greatest simplic- ity or may offer as great a variety as desired, provided they contain the proper combination of foods; in other words, some protein, some carbohydrates and fat, some mineral salts and the necessary bulk.
The list of meat substitutes is a long and varied one. Eggs are fully as valuable as meat in both food value and digesti- bility.
Beans or lentils may take the place of meat. Boston baked beans, if properly prepared, are usually popular. Stuffed peppers or tomatoes make satisfactory luncheon or supper dishes.
The possibilities of cheese combined with other food materials are numerous and these combinations may be served in place of meat. Cheese has twice the food value of meat; there is comparatively no waste, and it has the advantage of keeping qualities and requires very little preliminary preparation. Even with the prevailing high prices, cheese will be found economical when compared with other foods of equal nutritive value. The different varieties of cheese are used chiefly for their flavor, and used in such small quantities, have very little value in the diet other than to make the meal attractive and palatable. Cream or soft cheese is usually served in this manner and is more easily digested than hard cheese.
One reason, perhaps, why cheese is not more commonly used as a meat substitute is due to the fact that because of its concentration it is not easily digested. This, however, may be largely overcome by grating or cutting into small bits then melted with milk, or in combination with other ingredients. A very small quantity of baking soda is an aid in making cheese soluble.
Cheese can be overcooked; it is hardened by high heat and care should be taken that the food materials combined with cheese be thoroughly cooked before the combination is made. If merely melted, cheese is probably as digestible, if used moderately, as many cooked meats; but when it has been overheated in cooking it usually contains burned fats. This causes indigestion, and the blame should not be laid to the composition of the food but to careless cooking.
In planning menus of which cheese forms the main dish,
[120] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
supply crisp vegetables, such as lettuce, celery, fruit salads, and for desserts something light, either fresh or cooked fruits or gelatin, plain cookies or fruit shortcakes. If cheese is used in quantity it is necessary to diminish other protein and fat foods in order that the meal may not be too hearty. Vegetables and soups may be cooked with cheese, and in such dishes the cheese is added for both nutritive value and flavor.
The housewife whose family is fond of cheese can find an almost unlimited variety of combinations. To keep cheese free from mold, wrap in a slightly damp cloth and keep cool.
Boston Baked Beans
2 cups small white beans. 2 tablespoons molasses.
}/i pound fat salt pork. J^ teaspoon dry mustard.
2 teaspoons salt. 1 cup boiling water.
Pick over beans, wash well, cover with cold water and soak over night. In the morning drain, cover with cold water and heat slowly, keeping water below boiling point, and cook until the skins will burst. This may be deter- mined by taking a few beans on a spoon and blowing on them. The skins will burst if beans are sufficiently cooked. Drain again, cut salt pork in two pieces, placing one piece in the bottom of the bean pot. Put beans in pot, place the other piece of pork on top of beans. Add seasoning to the boiling water and pour over beans, adding enough more boiling water to cover. Place the cover on bean pot and bake slowly about 6 hours. Add more boiling water as needed and uncover beans during last hour of baking. An earthenware bean pot produces the best results.
Pink Beans, Spanish
2 cups beans. 2 pimentos.
1 onion. 1 tablespoon butter.
1 cup strained tomato or 1 1 teaspoon salt, can chili tomato sauce.
Wash and soak beans over night. Drain, cover with fresh boiling water and cook under boiling point for half an hour. Drain again, cover with fresh boiling water and cook gently until tender, or about 1 hour. Do not allow to reach boiling point. Chop the onion and pimentos, and
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [121]
cook in the butter until the onion is soft, but not brown; then add seasoning and tomato. Drain beans, pour over the sauce and simmer for about 30 minutes. Serve with boiled rice or hominy. If using chili tomato sauce the pimentos may be omitted, and if desired highly seasoned, use 4 or 5 tiny dried red peppers or a few drops of pepper sauce.
Rissotto No. 1
1 cup rice. 1 sweet green pepper.
1 cup grated cheese. 1 teaspoon salt.
i'^ci^* strained tomatoes or 1 tablespoon shortening, tomato sauce.
Wash rice well and add slowly 4 cups of rapidly boiling water; boil 5 minutes, drain well and add to 4 cups fresh boiling water. Cook rice until tender, drain and dry in a moderate oven. While rice is cooking melt shortening, add chopped onion and pepper, and cook until heated through; then add tomatoes. Have a well-greased baking dish and put in a layer of rice, then sprinkle with cheese, and add a layer of the tomato mixture. Repeat, having the last layer cheese. Cover the baking dish and place in a moderate oven until cheese is melted.
Rissotto No. 2
Wash rice well and drain until very dry. Heat 2 table- spoons olive oil in a heavy frying pan; add rice and cook, stirring constantly until rice is somewhat golden in color. Cover with tomato sauce, add chopped onion and green pepper, and cook over a very low fire until rice is tender. Turn onto a serving dish and sprinkle with grated cheese. Serve at once.
Cheese Croquettes
2 cups any cooked cereal. 1 teaspoon mustard. 1 egg yolk. 2 teaspoons salt.
1 cup Eastern cheese (grated). 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce.
Mix well and cook 10 minutes, cool thoroughly and form into croquettes. Add 1 tablespoon of cold water to white of egg and beat slightly. Roll croquettes in bread-
[122] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
crumbs, then in egg mixture, then crumbs again. Fry until brown in deep fat. To test fat for frying drop a cube of dry bread into fat and count forty. If bread is a golden brown by then, fat is ready to use for croquettes. Fry until brown, drain on paper. Serve with a tomato sauce. Green peppers may be stuffed with this mixture and baked.
Poached Eggs with Cheese Sauce
Prepare medium white sauce allowing one cup of sauce to four persons. Add one-half cup of grated cheese to sauce while hot. Toast rounds of bread on both sides; dip the edges in hot salted water and spread with butter. Set a poached egg on each slice of toast; pour the cheese sauce over the eggs and surround the whole with asparagus tips, or tomatoes which have been sliced rather thick, and dipped in batter or crumbs and fried.
Macaroni and Cheese
1 cup macaroni, broken in 2 tablespoons flour, small pieces. 1 cup milk.
6 cups boiling water. 3^ cup grated cheese.
H teaspoon salt. }/2 teaspoon salt.
2 tablespoons butter or 3^ cup bread crumbs, substitute.
Wash macaroni and cook in salted boiling water until tender. Melt butter, add flour; cook until frothy; add cold milk, stirring constantly until thick. Season. Put macaroni, sauce and cheese in layers in a buttered baking dish, cover with crumbs moistened with melted butter and bake in a moderate oven until crumbs are brown.
Cheese Toast and Bacon
Melt 2 tablespoons butter, add 2 tablespoons flour and cook until frothy, then add 1 cup cold milk, stirring until thick; season and add ^ cup grated cheese; stir until cheese is melted, then pour over slices of toast and place 2 pieces of bacon fried until crisp on top of cheese.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [123]
Baked Rice and Cheese
2 cups cooked rice. J^ green pepper, chopped.
1 cup strained tomatoes. 1 teaspoon onion juice.
3^ teaspoon salt. 3^ cup grated cheese.
Add all ingredients, except cheese to rice. Heat to boil- ing point, and just before serving add cheese, mixing in well with two forks.
Meat Loaf Creole
1}4 pounds chopped beef. 1 green pepper finely chopped.
}/2 pound chopped veal. 1 teaspoon salt.
1^ pound chopped salt pork. 34 teaspoon pepper.
1 onion, chopped. Dash paprika.
Grease a bread pan and put in half the mixture. Place strips of pimento over the top, add the rest of the meat and bake in a moderate oven about 45 minutes. Serve with molds of hot boiled rice and tomato sauce.
Spaghetti a I'ltalienne
Boil ^2 pound of spaghetti in boiling water for 25 min- utes.
Prepare a sauce as for Rissotto, using olive oil for short- ening, and cook the tomato sauce until onions are tender. Add the sauce to the spaghetti, then add cheese, and stir until cheese is melted. Dried or canned mushrooms may be added to the tomato sauce if desired.
Stuffed Peppers
Cut the tops and remove the seeds from sweet green peppers; cover with boiling water and allow to stand 5 or 10 minutes.
Stuff with cooked rice or macaroni seasoned well with butter, salt, pepper, finely-chopped onion, and moisten with strained tomato, cover the top with buttered bread- crumbs, arrange in a baking dish and bake about ^ of an hour.
[124] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Com Pudding
1 cup canned com. 1 tablespoon butter. ^
2 slightly beaten eggs. 3^ teaspoon salt.
1 cup milk. ]/2 tablespoon sugar.
Mix ingredients, bake in well-greased individual or large baking dish in a moderate oven about 35 minutes. Unmold and serve with a white sauce and stuffed tomatoes or tomato fritters.
Poached Eggs California
Toast rounds of bread, dip the edges lightly in boiling salted water, spread with butter.
Set a carefully poached fresh egg on each slice. Over 3 or 4 eggs pour a cup of sauce made of 2 tablespoons each of butter and flour, }i teaspoon each of salt and pepper, ^ cup of tomato puree and }i cup of milk. Make same as for plain white sauce.
Tamale Loaf
14 can com. 1 well-beaten egg.
J^ can tomatoes. ^ cup commeal.
1 tablespoon shortening, melted. 6 ripe olives.
H large onion, chopped. ^ cup chopped nuts or meat.
K green pepper, chopped.
Season with salt and cayenne to taste. Melt shorten- ing, add onion and cook until tender. Add corn, tomatoes, salt and chopped pepper. Bring to boiling point. Add commeal gradually, stirring constantly. Cook about 20 minutes, then add egg, olives and nuts or meat. Pour into baking dish and bake 45 minutes. Serve with or without tomato sauce.
Polenta
1 cup commeal. 3^ cup of grated cheese.
1 teaspoon salt. Ji teaspoon pepper.
4 cups boiling water.
Add salt to boiling water, then add corn meal very slowly to prevent lumping. Let boil rapidly for 15 minutes, then finish in double boiler. Turn into a greased shallow pan, sprinkle with cheese and pepper and place in the oven until cheese is melted. Cut in squares and serve with gravy or as a garnish for meat, or plain with a tomato sauce. Dried mushrooms are an addition to a sauce for polenta.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [125]
Spanish Farina
1}4 cups farina (cooked). 6 olives, chopped fine.
14 can com. Cayenne pepper to taste.
1 tablespoon butter. 1 green pepper, chopped fine.
1 teaspoon salt. 1 can tomato sauce.
2 onions, chopped fine.
Mix all ingredients, put in casserole, cover and bake in medium oven thirty minutes, or put together and heat in a double boiler.
Rice and Meat Loaf
2 cups cold cooked meat cut 2 cups cooked rice, in dice. ^ teaspoon salt.
1 cup stock or gravy. 1 teaspoon onion juice.
3 tablespoons shortening. Pepper to taste. 3 tablespoons flour.
Melt shortening, add flour, mix until smooth. Add stock, cook until thick. Add remaining ingredients, except rice. Butter a bread pan, line with rice, pressing firmly. Add meat, cover with rice. Bake until firm and serve with a tomato sauce.
Cheese Fondu
1 cup cheese broken into small Paprika, pieces. 1^ cups milk.
2 tablespoons butter or sub- 3^ cup soft bread crumbs, stitute. 2 eggs.
1 tablespoon flour. 14 teaspoon each salt and dry mustard.
Sift dry ingredients; melt butter, add dry materials and cook until frothy, then add milk and cook until creamy. Pour over the slightly beaten eggs, add bread crumbs and cheese. Pour into a buttered pudding dish, set in a pan of hot water and bake in a moderate oven until firm in the center.
[126] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Gnocchi
1 cup milk. 2 eggs. 1 cup flour. }i cup grated cheese. ^ teaspoon salt. 2 tablespoons butter or sub- Paprika, stitute.
Bring milk to the boiling point, then add flour all at once and stir until the mixture forms a ball of dough, add seasonings, remove from fire and beat in eggs one at a time, beating until smooth. Spread in a shallow pan and cool. Cut in small squares, dip in cornmeal. Heat butter in a frying pan and fry the squares a golden brown on each side, adding more butter if necessary. Sprinkle with cheese and serve with a highly seasoned tomato sauce.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [127]
The Use of Left-Overs
Every housewife faces the problem of "left-overs." To utilize and prepare them into satisfactory dishes requires more skill and inventiveness than to cook the raw food, and this branch of cookery is an art in itself. The thrifty home-maker uses all the left-overs. Living has been much too high for the average person to ignore this type of cookery.
Food can so easily be spoiled by reheating. Take meats for example. A tender piece of roast beef reheated for ten minutes will be tough. This applies to almost all cooked meats. If sliced very thin and hot sauce or gravy poured over the slices, the meat will be tender; but if added to the hot gravy in an attempt to reheat it will invariably toughen. Meat must be cooked a long time when reheating if it is to be tender, the theory being that it will toughen at first, but will become tender by long, slow cooking. For this reason the covered casserole dishes have become almost indispensable.
A casserole is used for cooking foods that require slow cooking for either a short or long period. The dish is covered to keep in all the steam, and to retain flavor. Dicing food takes more time than chopping or putting through a food grinder, but if one has the time, diced meat will present a much more attractive appearance, as well as being more palatable. Diced meat or fish may be com- bined with a white sauce, adding cubes of cooked potatoes, several tablespoons of cooked peas and diced carrots. If meat is used, salt, pepper and onion juice can be the season- ing; if fish, add a little lemon juice also, or a finely chopped sour pickle. Or add the diced meat to a tomato sauce, seasoning well with onion and chopped green peppers, adding six or eight ripe or green olives. A meat pie is always acceptable. Dice meat, add to thickened, well seasoned gravy or sauce, adding cooked potatoes cut in cubes, and small boiled onions and any other left-over vegetables, such as peas, carrots, turnips or cauliflower. Place in a casserole or baking dish. Make a plain pie crust or biscuit dough for top and bake in a moderately
[128] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
hot oven. This may be prepared in the morning, and the crust made, but not added until the pie goes into the oven.
Smaller quantities of left-over meat or fish may be chopped and made into souffles, timbales or croquettes, or added to a well-seasoned white sauce and served on toast, or in ramekins or a baking dish, the top covered with buttered crumbs and then browned in the oven. The white sauce, made of butter or substitute and milk, supply additional food value to take the place of the smaller quan- tity of meat or fish.
One most important factor in the success of these dishes is in careful preparation. All bones, gristle, skin or tough, undesirable portions should be removed and discarded. If there are large meat bones, as in a roast of lamb, these may be broken — adding two or three cupfuls of cold water, also an onion. Simmer for an hour or more and use as a base for gravy or sauce.
A cupful of chopped meat or fish will make a souffle, croquettes, timbales or creamed meat in ramekins for four persons.
Left-over vegetables can be reheated in a white sauce, used for cream soups or chowders; scalloped, made into au gratin dishes, added to a fritter batter and fried in deep fat or used in salad.
Almost any combination of vegetables makes an attrac- tive salad, providing it is accompanied with a well-made salad dressing. The left-over breakfast cereal may be molded, sliced, dipped in flour and fried a delicate brown, or half a cupful may replace the same quantity of flour in the breakfast griddle cakes or mufiins; any fresh or cooked fruit can be mashed and poured over molded cold cereal for the children's dessert.
Stale broken pieces of bread may be dried in a very slow oven, then rolled or put through the food grinder and stored in covered fruit jars. To be used in scalloped dishes, to bread cutlets, fish or croquettes. Or cut into very small cubes, dried in a slow oven for croutons for soup; made into dressing for stuflFed poultry, meat, fish, tomatoes or eggplant. Any of the bread puddings are palatable, pro- vided too much bread has not been used. The old- fashioned custard bread pudding should not be made just
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [129]
to save bread, for that would not be an economy, as the other ingredients needed are too expensive merely to use up left-overs of bread.
Small portions of cooked or raw tomatoes may make savory sauces.
Sour milk should never be wasted. It can always be substituted for fresh milk in flour mixtures, using one-half teaspoonful of soda to each cupful of sour milk, omitting the baking powder; or the sour milk can be rnade into cottage cheese.
All pieces of beef or chicken fat should be cut fine and carefully rendered to be used for frying. Fat left from fry- ing bacon or ham should be saved, but kept in a separate jar, as the smoked flavor is not desirable for all frying.
Left-overs of fruit may be combined and used for salads or for dessert. Stale cake may be served for pudding, with the addition of a custard or chocolate pudding sauce; or the cake may be cut in finger lengths and used for char- lottes or charlotte russe.
The greatest care should be given left-overs, so that they will be in proper condition to use later. Jelly glasses with covers are convenient for small portions of vegetables or fruit.
The use of left-overs is unlimited, and while such cook- ery requires both consideration and time, the results will amply repay for the additional labor.
[130] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Twice Cooked Meats
Meat which is reheated or twice cooked is less nourishing than when first prepared because no matter how careful the cooking process, a certain amount of the nutritive juices will escape in the first cooking, although usually a portion of this is retained and served as a sauce or gravy. So the wise housewife prepares various savory sauces when reheating meat or fish, to overcome this loss of flavor and add to the palatability of these warmed over dishes.
Twice cooked meat, if properly prepared, is very appe- tizing and not hard to digest — unless reheated in such a fashion as to render it tough and leathery. It is also neces- sary to bear in mind when preparing these various dishes, that the meat should never be actually twice cooked, but merely reheated.
Whenever vegetables, sauces, etc., are to be added to cooked meat or fish, they should be thoroughly cooked before being combined with the ingredients to be reheated. The cooked meat or fish, when reheating, should be pro- tected if possible from coming in direct contact with the heat of the fire, oven or fat; which means that the reheat- ing process should be accomplished by adding the cooked food to a hot sauce, or be combined with other materials.
The finer these cooked ingredients are the less time re- quired for reheating, and the more quickly will they absorb the sauce which is to give flavor to the dish. However, this does not mean to mash the meat or fish, but carefully chop it; also be careful to remove all bone, gristle and undesirable portions before chopping, and if cutting in cubes or slicing, have the pieces of uniform size, which will add greatly to the appearance of the finished dish.
Any kind of cooked fish, meat and some vegetables may be used in making croquettes. Meat and fish croquettes are simply a finely chopped mixture combined with a thick sauce, then crumbed, shaped, dipped in egg, then in crumbs again and fried in deep fat. Whatever variety of meat or fish the rules for the sauce, molding and frying are the same.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [131]
Lamb Curry
Cut cold roast lamb in thin slices. Prepare a sauce by melting 4 tablespoons of shortening, add ^^ slice onion and fry until a golden brown; remove onion from fat and add 4 tablespoons of flour, yi teaspoon of salt, and 1 teaspoon of curry powder. Mix until smooth and add gradually 2 cups of stock or warm water. Stir constantly until thick, then pour over sliced lamb. Stock can be made by adding a bouillon cube to water or using left-over gravy and water steamed before using. Garnish platter with hot cooked rice, molded in custard cups.
Reheating Roast Beef
Slice cold roast beef very thin and arrange on a warm platter. Just before serving pour a hot meat sauce or gravy over the slices of meat. If the beef is reheated and allowed to stand over the fire in the gravy it becomes tough.
Corned Beef Hash
Chop rather fine, equal quantities of cold corned beef, free from all fat and gristle, and cold boiled potatoes; heat about 3 tablespoons of shortening in a frying pan; turn in the chopped ingredients and add one-quarter cup of stock or milk and season with paprika; mix together, cover and let allow to brown, watching very carefully and stirring occasionally. Fold over and turn on a hot platter; pour a well-seasoned tomato sauce around the hash and garnish with baked bananas.
Cottage Pie
2 cups of diced cooked meat. 1 tablespoon of grated onion.
1 cup of gravy or sauce. 2 cups of mashed potatoes.
1 cup of cooked peas.
Add peas and onion and diced meat to the gravy or well- seasoned sauce. Pour into a casserole or baking dish cover with mashed potato. Brush the potato with slightly beaten egg or melted shortening. Brown in a hot oven.
[132] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Scalloped Meat
Cut bread in finger length strips. Place a layer in a buttered baking dish and pour over enough gravy or brown sauce to moisten. Add a layer of thinly sliced or diced meat and a tablespoonful of finely chopped onion. Repeat until dish is filled, covering top layer of meat with buttered crumbs. Bake in a hot oven about 20 minutes.
Stuffed Green Peppers
Make a croquette mixture, using any left-over meat. Scald peppers for 5 minutes in boiling water, then cut off the stem end and remove the seeds. Fill with meat mix- ture, cover top with buttered crumbs and bake in a hot oven about 30 minutes. Serve with a tomato sauce.
Meat Pie
2 cups diced cooked meat. 1 cup cooked diced potatoes.
2 cups gravy or sauce. 2 onions sliced and cooked.
^ cup sliced cooked carrots.
Pour all ingredients in a casserole or baking dish. Cover with y^ of the biscuit dough recipe or with a plain pastry. Bake in a hot oven.
Creamed Dried Beef with Spaghetti
1 cup dried beef. 2 hard cooked eggs.
2 cups white sauce. 2 cups cooked hot spaghetti.
Cover dried beef with cold water and slowly bring to the boiling point and drain. Cut the hard cooked eggs in slices. Prepare the white sauce, season and add the dried beef. Arrange the macaroni on a hot platter and pour over the creamed beef and garnish with the slices of hard cooked eggs.
Chicken and Oyster Pie
Arrange slices of cooked chicken and oysters in layers in a large or individual baking dish. Add a little chicken broth or oyster liquor and season. Cover the top with flaky pastry. Prick pastry to let out the steam. Bake in a hot oven.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [133]
Rissoles
Make any croquette mixture and set aside to cool. Pre- pare flaky pastry, roll out and cut in 3-inch rounds with a biscuit cutter. Place a spoonful of the croquette mixture in the center of half of the rounds of pastry, brush the edge of the pastry with cold water and place a round of pastry on top, pressing the edges firmly together. Prick each rissole with a fork and bake in a hot oven.
Meat, Chicken or Fish au Gratin
1 cup meat cut in cubes. J^ cup bread crumbs.
3^ cup grated cheese. J2 teaspoon salt.
1 cup tomato sauce. 1 cup cooked rice.
Butter a baking dish, place a layer of rice and diced meat alternately until all is used. Add salt to tomato sauce and pour over the mixture. Mix cheese and bread crumbs and spread over the top. Place in a hot oven to brown.
Tongue Piquante
Make a piquante sauce. Place thin slices of cooked tongue in a casserole or baking dish, pour over the piquante sauce and set in the oven to heat.
Creamed Sweetbreads
Two cups blanched sweetbreads cut in dice. One small can button mushrooms; make a sauce with 4 tablespoons of melted butter, 4 tablespoons flour, mix well and cook until foamy; add 2 cups rich milk or thin cream and stir well until thick and creamy; season with yi teaspoon salt, a dash of cayenne pepper and ground nutmeg. Add sweet- breads and mushrooms. Serve in ramekins.
To blanch sweetbreads soak 1 hour in cold water, drain, cover with cold water, add 1 tablespoon of lemon juice or vinegar, 2 or 3 cloves, dash of pepper and a tiny piece of bay leaf; simmer about 15 minutes; drain and remove fibers.
[134] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Deep Fat Frying
Deep fat frying is a method of cooking by immersing food in very hot fat. If properly fried, foods cooked in this manner should not be unwholesome to persons in normal health. Vegetable oils are the best fats to use for deep fat frying because they can be heated to a higher temperature before the burning point is reached than animal fats. Fat should be heated until just an indication of a delicate blue smoke or vapor arises. If the smoke is decidedly perceptible, the fat is too hot for use. Heated to the point when the smoke can just be noticed and the food to be fried added to the fat, the temperature will be immediately reduced to the right degree of heat. To test the fat have several cubes of bread when the fat is hot, but not smoking. Drop in one of these cubes of bread and count 40, about as the clock ticks. If the bread turns a golden brown in that time, the fat is ready for mixtures that require heating through, such as croquettes, fish balls, fritters of cooked fruit or vegetables which have only a coating of thin batter. If the foods to be fried are un- cooked mixtures, such as doughnuts or fillets of fish, the bread should take 60 seconds to brown. The fat should be tested each time before the food is added.
To heat, place the fat in the kettle, cover and allow to heat gradually, watching carefully.
A heavy kettle is always an advantage, as it may be kept at a more even temperature than a light-weight one. Any fat may be used, the vegetable oils now on the market proving very satisfactory. This includes both corn and cottonseed oil, all of the lard substitutes, and, of course, the pure leaf lard.
Unless a strong-flavored food has been cooked in the fat, such as onions, etc., it may be used over and over again if clarified after using.
Frying baskets are a great convenience, particularly with delicate frying, as it saves handling. The articles to be fried are placed in the basket then submerged in the hot fat. When the food is brown, the basket is lifted out. In this way each article is perfect.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [135]
If the fat bubbles or sputters while heating it denotes the presence of water, and it will be impossible to fry the food successfully, for the fat will not become hot enough. To overcome this condition, allow the water to evaporate, and then it will heat to the right temperature for frying.
Fat which has been overheated at any time is unwhole- some and should not be used. It has become decomposed, and cooling and reheating will not restore it. The fat absorbed by food cooked in such fat will be irritating. After using fat for frying let stand until somewhat cool to allow any particles of food to settle. Then strain through a double thickness of cheese cloth to remove all remaining particles. If not overheated and carefully strained, vege- table fats can be used over and over a number of times. If fat becomes dark in color add a few slices of raw potato and heat very slowly. This will quickly absorb the various impurities and clarify it. To prevent food from absorbing fat have fat heated according to the test already given, using cubes of bread. Forty seconds for cooked mixtures, 60 seconds for uncooked articles. Do not put too many cold articles in the fat at once, thereby reducing the heat too much. Test fat each time before food is added. Do not have mixtures to be fried too rich. Do not use too much baking powder. And, except for flour mixtures, have food well coated with eggs and crumbs. The egg forms a coating which prevents the food absorbing fat if the temperature of the fat is correct. The flour mixtures should contain enough egg to prevent the mixture absorb- ing fat if the fat is of the right heat.
Saut^ing is cooking food in a small quantity of fat; however, the term frying is more commonly used. Many experiments have been carried on to determine which method of cooking was preferable, deep fat frying or saut^- ing, and it has been decided that if properly done the deep fat method will absorb less fat than saut^ing or cook- ing in a small amount of fat.
[136] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Fritter Batter
To be used for vegetables or fruit.
]4 cup flour. 1 egg beaten.
J^ teaspoon salt. J^ cup milk.
Mix ingredients with an egg beater until very smooth and free from lumps, beating with a rotary egg beater. Let stand an hour or more in a cool place before using.
Take slices of pineapple, banana or any cooked fruit or cooked vegetable such as cauliflower, egg plant, etc., dip in batter to completely coat, then fry in deep fat until a golden brown.
Swedish Timbale Cases
1 egg. J^ teaspoon salt.
^ cup milk. 1 teaspoon olive or other vege-
yi cup flour. table oil.
Beat eggs, add remaining ingredients and beat until very smooth, using the egg beater. The mixture should be very thin. Set aside in a cool place for an hour or more. Have fat deep enough to completely cover the timbale iron. Heat the iron with the fat. When fat is hot remove iron, drain and dip into the batter a little more than half its depth. Dip iron into fat at once, completely covering it with fat. The cases are cooked when a delicate brown. It may be necessary to test one or two before the batter is the right consistency. If the cases are not crisp the mix- ture is too thick and should be thinned with a little milk. If the batter does not cling to the timbale form, it is too hot. It requires a little skill to get them just right.
To Shape Croquettes
Allow one rounding tablespoon of the mixture for each croquette. Form into a ball, dip in sifted bread crumbs and form into any shape desired. This is a very simple process and requires very little practice to shape very attractive croquettes.
When all the croquettes have been molded, dip in beaten egg diluted with one or two tablespoons of cold water, roll in crumbs again and set aside to fry. The item of first importance in frying is the temperature of the fat. When
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [137]
frying mixtures covered with egg and crumbs, the fat should be hot enough to stiffen this coating the instant it comes in contact with it, and the final browning should not take but a few seconds. The frying process should encase the croquettes in a crisp, delicately browned crust while being reheated. To accomplish this the fat should not be smoking hot but hot enough to turn a cube of bread a golden brown while you count 40. If you have made the croquettes the size suggested, a rounding table- spoon for each croquette, they should be a golden brown and well heated through.
Frying Process
Fry only four or five croquettes at one time, and be sure to test the temperature of the fat between each frying. When fried, drain the croquettes on several folds of soft paper, laid on a pan in a warm oven, having the oven door open.
Thick White Sauce for Croquettes
4 tablespoons shortening. 1 cup cold milk.
4 tablespoons flour.
Melt shortening, add flour, stir until smooth; set over a fire, cook until frothy, then add cold milk and cook, stirring constantly until thick. Add seasonings and chopped food to the sauce; then cool.
Thick Brown Sauce for Croquettes
Brown sauce is made from stock, or stock can be made in a minute's time by dissolving a bouillon cube in a cup of hot water. Use 4 tablespoons drippings for the short- ening, and when this is melted add several slices of onion and cook until a golden brown; then remove onion, add 4 tablespoons flour and cook the flour in the fat until brown; then add a cup of stock, stir until thick, season.
Croquettes of Meat, Ham or Fish
1 cup thick white or brown ^ teaspoon salt, sauce. 1 teaspoon onion juice.
2 cups minced meat or fish.
Mix ingredients and set aside to become cold. Make into small round or oblong forms. Dip in crumbs, then in
[138] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
slightly beaten egg, then in crumbs. When all are made fry in deep fat until a golden brown. Drain on brown paper and serve with a tomato or other sauce.
Chicken Croquettes
Chop chicken very fine, season with salt, pepper, onion juice and lemon juice. Chopped ham, tongue, sweetbreads, veal or mushrooms all combine with chicken, and any of these foods, even a small portion, will improve the flavor of the croquettes. For each cup of chopped meat use 1 cup of thick white sauce. The sauce for chicken croquettes may be made with either chicken stock or milk.
Rice Croquettes
2 cups boiled rice. 1 egg.
1 tablespoon butter. 3^ teaspoon salt.
To hot boiled rice add butter and well-beaten egg; spread on a shallow plate and when cold shape in balls, roll in soft crumbs, dip in egg slightly beaten, then in crumbs again and fry in hot fat. For sweet rice croquettes add 2 tablespoons sugar and the grated rind and juice of a lemon.
Potato Croquettes
2 cups hot mashed potatoes. 1 teaspoon onion juice.
2 tablespoons butter. 1 teaspoon finely chopped
3^ teaspoon salt. parsley.
y^ teaspoon pepper.
Add ingredients in order given to potatoes and prepare as for rice croquettes.
Cheese Croquettes
1 cup thick white sauce. ]4 cup grated cheese.
J^ teaspoon salt. 1 cup cheese, cut in dice.
Paprika. 2 egg yolks.
To white sauce add beaten yolks and cheese; stir until cheese is melted; cool, then shape and crumb as for rice croquettes.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [139]
Macaroni Croquettes
2 cups finely chopped cooked J^ teaspoon salt.
macaroni. Paprika.
1 cup thick white sauce.
Add chopped macaroni to the thick white sauce; also seasoning. Set aside to cool. Shape into croquettes, dip in crumbs, then in slightly beaten egg, then crumbs. Fry in deep fat until a golden brown. Serve with a cheese sauce.
Com Fritters
1 egg beaten separately. 1 teaspoon baking powder.
1 cup com. ]4. teaspoon salt.
M cup flour. Paprika.
Beat egg yolk; add com, flour sifted with baking powder and salt; then fold in stiffly beaten egg white. Fry in deep fat or on a well greased griddle.
Celery Fritters
Cut celery in lengths of about 3 inches. Parboil until tender, but not broken; drain, season with salt and pepper. Prepare fritter batter; dip celery in batter and fry in deep tat; use as a garnish or with a tomato sauce. This is a good way to use the outer stalks of celery.
Banana Fritters
Dip each piece of banana in the batter and fry in hot fat; drain on brown paper. For a dessert or sweet entree serve with a sweet sauce; as a garnish for meat serve plain. Apple or pineapple fritters are prepared in the same manner.
Tripe Fried in Batter
Tripe is usually cooked or pickled as purchased in the market. It requires more cooking to make it tender. Cut into pieces for serving and cook in equal parts of milk and water until tender, about half an hour. Drain, dry, dip in fritter batter and fry in deep fat.
CHAPTER SEVEN
VEGETABLE COOKERY
SAUCES SAVORY AND SWEET
SALADS
SALAD DRESSINGS
[142] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Vegetable Cookery
[egetable cookery is very often slighted because it seems too simple to require much attention. Hot or cold water is poured over them, regardless of the type of vegetable. Sometimes they are cooked so long and in such quantities of water that the finished dish is anything but palatable.
Vegetables are made up of countless little cells contain- ing water, sugar, starch, mineral salts, etc., and are valu- able to the diet as bulk food and for these mineral salts. The careful housewife will see that vegetables are cooked so as to retain most of these valuable elements. All vege- tables should be cooked in boiling water, as this bursts the starch grains at once, which will hold the nutriment of the vegetable. If cold or just warm water is used, the starchy frame of the vegetable will become soaked with water, and in the case of very starchy vegetables, such as potatoes, they will become water-soaked and soggy — an unappetizing and indigestible dish. The vegetables de- ficient in starch should be cooked in boiling hot water also, in order to retain the flavor, and delicate vegetables should not be cooked in a quantity of water or the flavor will be impaired and much of the mineral salts lost. Steamed vegetables retain nearly all the valuable qualities and is a very satisfactory method for cooking many vegetables.
Foods containing starch must be well cooked. Such vegetables as potatoes, turnips and those containing starch in the form of woody fiber must be thoroughly cooked or they will be unwholesome. Green peas and asparagus contain sufiicient starch to require thorough cooking, but in order to retain the flavor (sugar and other elements) there should not be a quantity of water used, and while the water should be at the boiling point it should not be allowed to boil violently; in the case of peas all water should either be absorbed, or whatever liquid remains should be served with the vegetables.
The liquid from asparagus can form the base for a cream soup or can be used to make a sauce to pour over the vege- table. Spinach, after being carefully cleaned, should be
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK: BOOK [143]
cooked in the water which clings to the leaves, or if any water is added it should be only sufficient to cover the bottom of the kettle. The length of time required to cook vegetables depends upon their age and how long they have been gathered.
Some vegetables are strong flavored and for this type a quantity of water may be used. Cabbage, onions, etc., come under this class. These vegetables may be blanched. By that is meant placing the vegetables in a quantity of cold water and then brought quickly to the boiling point, boiled not more than 5 minutes, drained and cooked in boiling water as directed.
Hard water has a tendency to toughen and harden woody fiber, and thus keep the sweet juices and other valuable compounds within the article cooked; soft water acts in just the opposite manner. For that reason we salt the water for all green vegetables, which assists them in retaining flavor and color. Vegetables containing much woody fiber are better cooked in soft water, adding salt when half cooked.
If you will bear in mind that vegetables growing above the ground require salted water and those growing below the ground can be salted later in the cooking process, there will be no mistake.
Some cooks advise using a small quantity of baking soda in the water in which woody fibered vegetables are cooked. This is not an advisable process, for the soda is an alkali, and while it will certainly soften the water it will also destroy certain essential elements in the vegetables and will give green vegetables a faded, unappetizing appear- ance.
In the case of dried vegetables, where soda is often suggested to soften the cellular structure, soaking over night will be found to give much better results.
Green vegetables will retain their color better if cooked in an uncovered kettle. Strong flavored vegetables, such as cabbage and cauliflower, will not give off as unpleasant an odor if cooked in an uncovered kettle.
Although it is customary to boil vegetables, they may be either steamed or baked. To steam be careful to keep water constantly boiling and saucepan closely covered.
[144] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Steam until vegetable is tender. This will take a little longer than boiling, but they will be of a good flavor and there will be scarcely any loss of mineral salts or other nutritive content. This method of cooking may be used for all vegetables firm in texture. Where possible, steam vege- tables without removing the skins. The flavor of the food will be greatly improved and the skins may be more quickly and easily removed after cooking. In baking there is very little loss of material except water, which is driven off" by the heat. Baked potatoes, both white and sweet, are among the most easily digested and wholesome vege- tables.
When baking raw vegetables always use a medium hot oven. Potatoes will not be mealy and satisfactory if placed in a cool oven and allowed to heat through gradually.
The time required for cooking vegetables depends largely upon the age of the vegetable. They should be cooked until tender, but no longer. Peas overcooked are ruined, and cabbage, so commonly cooked until soggy and heavy, is certainly unappetizing and indigestible.
For seasonings, just salt, pepper and butter or any of the well-made white or drawn butter sauces. The wise housekeeper will master the art of making simple sauces and will vary the kind to suit the vegetable the sauce is to be served with. If the vegetable is to be fried be sure the fat is hot and drain off" all fat before serving. Fat soaked foods are unwholesome and indigestible.
Cold cooked vegetables may be scalloped or served au
tratin. Any of these methods will entirely change the avor and appearance so completely that the reheated dish will not be classified as a left-over.
Any cooked vegetable may be creamed by adding thin or medium white sauce. This sauce can be made with part milk and part the liquid the vegetable was cooked in.
Any cooked vegetable may be scalloped by alternating layers of vegetables and a medium white sauce, covering the top with buttered crumbs and baking until brown.
Vegetables may be boiled in the oven as well as on top of the stove. If using a hot oven for a roast the vege- tables may be started to cook on top of the stove, then removed to the oven to complete cooking. Of course,
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [145]
they must be kept at the boiling point if the best flavor is desired, so the oven must be hot.
When using canned vegetables, it is better to open the cans an hour or more before they are needed, so that the contents may come in contact with a fresh supply of oxy- gen. Of course the food should be turned from the can at once. All canned vegetables, except tomatoes and com, should be rinsed in cold water before using. This removes the "canned" taste so much disliked by many.
Artichokes
Let the artichokes soak for about ten minutes in cold salted water. This draws out any tiny bugs which might be under the leaves. Remove the tough outside leaves and with a sharp knife cut about an inch off the top of each artichoke. Drop into cold water, adding a tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice and let stand half hour or more. This prevents discoloration. Drain and cook in salted boiling water until tender.
Boiled Asparagus
Scrape the stalks, wash well and tie in small bunches; cut off the tough ends. Set the bunches in boiling salted water with the tips upright and above the water. Cook until tender. Drain, arrange on buttered toast, season with butter and serve. Steaming is a very good method to use for cooking asparagus.
Asparagus in Milk
Scrape the stalks, cut off the tough ends and cut in inch lengths. Put in a double boiler, add hot milk to cover and cook until tender. Season with salt and butter and serve; or for each cup of milk allow one tablespoon of butter and one of flour; mix until well blended, then add to hot mix- ture and stir until creamy. Pour over toast points.
Asparagus Shortcake
Split and butter hot baking powder biscuits. Have prepared creamed asparagus and put the biscuits together with this mixture, pouring some of the creamed asparagus around the little shortcakes.
[146] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Succotash
Take equal quantities of cooked corn and cooked string beans or cooked lima beans. Season with a teaspoon of onion juice, butter and salt.
Com Custard
1 cup canned com. 1 tablespoon melted butter.
J^ cup milk. Yi teaspoon salt.
1 egg, beaten. Paprika.
Mix ingredients in order named and pour into a greased baking dish. Bake in a slow oven until firm. If cooked too quickly the mixture will separate or curdle.
Green Peas
To shelled peas add about the same quantity of boiling water, allowing % teaspoon of salt and yi teaspoon of sugar to each cup of water. Simmer gently until tender, then add a teaspoon of butter just before serving.
Glac6 Carrots
Boil or steam small carrots without peeling. Drain, plunge in cold water and remove skins. Place in a buttered baking dish, sprinkle with sugar, dot with butter and add about ^2 cup of water. Bake about half an hour, basting several times.
Buttered Beets
Wash beets and cook in boiling water until tender. Drain, plunge in cold water and remove the skins. Cut in cubes. Reheat in a double boiler, adding salt and a table- spoon of butter.
Scalloped Onions
Peel and slice onions about half an inch in thickness. Put a layer of onions in a buttered baking dish or casserole; season with salt, dot with butter and dredge with flour. Continue in layers until all the onions are used. Cover with hot milk or boiling water; cover and bake in a moder- ate oven until tender; about one hour. Or reheat cooked onions.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [147]
Onions with Peanut Butter Sauce
Peel onions and cook in boiling water until tender. Make a white sauce using the proportion of 1 tablespoon of butter, 1 tablespoon of flour and ]^ teaspoon of salt to each cup of milk or cream. Add 4 tablespoons of peanut butter to each cup of sauce and stir until well blended. Pour over the onions that have been drained, and serve.
Celery au Gratin
Two cups of celery cut in small pieces. Put in saucepan and add 2 cups of boiling salted water. Cook until tender. Drain, reserving liquid to make a sauce. For the sauce use y^ cup of celery liquid and >^ cup of milk. Melt 2 tablespoons shortening, add 2 tablespoons of flour, cook until frothy, add liquid and cook, stirring constantly, until creamy. Season with salt and pepper. Grease a baking dish and add alternate layers of celery, sauce and grated cheese. Cover the top with buttered crumbs and bake until brown.
Fried Eggplant
Pare eggplant and cut in X-inch slices. Season with pepper and salt, then dip in slightly beaten egg, diluted with 1 tablespoon of cold water. After covering each slice with egg, roll in soft bread crumbs and fry in deep fat or pan fry in a small quantity of fat cooking in either case until a golden brown.
Quick Cabbage
Chop cabbage very fine. Plunge into boiling salted water and boil rapidly for 15 minutes. Drain, season with salt, pepper and a little butter.
. Diced Turnips
Peel turnips and cut in cubes; cook in boiling water until tender but not broken; drain. Allow 1 cup of medium white sauce for 2 cups of turnip, season with salt, pepper and 1 teaspoon of lemon juice.
[148] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Parsnip Cakes
Take cold mashed parsnips that have been well seasoned shape into small, flat, round cakes; roll in flour and cook in butter or butter substitute, browning on each side.
Steamed Squash
Cut squash in pieces to fit the steamer or colander in which it is to be steamed. Place over boiling water, cover closely and steam until tender, about one hour. Scrape the pulp from the shell and mash, seasoning with butter, pepper and salt and a very small amount of sugar.
Baked Cream Squash
Cut small cream squash in half; remove seeds and fiber; sprinkle with salt and dot with small bits of butter or substitute. Bake in a moderate oven about ^ of an hour.
Creamed Cabbage
4 cups shredded cabbage. 2 cups medium white sauce.
Add shredded cabbage to rapidly boiling, salted water. Cook until tender; drain, then add to the well-seasoned white sauce.
Spinach
Remove roots from spinach. Wash very well in several waters, then pour hot water over the leaves. This causes any remaining grit to go to the bottom of the pan. Place spinach in a kettle with a teaspoon of salt and cook until tender in its own juice, having the fire low and lifting occa- sionally to prevent burning. Drain, chop fine and add seasonings of salt, pepper and butter. Reheat and garnish with slices of hard cooked egg. Cooked in this manner, all of the valuable salts are retained. If the spinach is old and rather tough it may be necessary to use about a cupful of boiling water.
Creamed Spinach
For 2 cups of cooked, chopped spinach allow 1 cup of well-seasoned medium white sauce and add a dash of nutmeg.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [149]
Brussels Sprouts
Wash well and remove outer leaves of sprouts; cook in boiling, salted water until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain well, add 2 tablespoons butter to a heavy frying pan. Add the sprouts and cook over a slow fire until butter is all absorbed. Season with salt and pepper. Serve on a platter rounded with toast points or fried bread.
Dainty Cabbage
This is a somewhat novel way to cook this humble vegetable, but it will be found very palatable and as it is a hearty dish can be served when the meat course is not so plentiful.
Select a firm white head of cabbage and cook in boiling salted water until tender. Drain. Chop and season with salt and pepper. Add 2 level tablespoons of butter, ]/2 cup of milk and 2 beaten eggs, and 1 teaspoon of vinegar. Mix all the ingredients, pour into a greased baking dish, and bake in a hot oven until the top is a golden brown.
Hot Slaw
1 tablespoon sugar. 3 tablespoons vinegar, pepper.
1 egg. 3 cups shredded uncooked
1 tablespoon flour. cabbage.
^ cup milk. y^ teaspoon mustard.
1 teaspoon salt.
Mix ingredients and add to beaten egg and milk and cook in double boiler until thick. Add vinegar and cabbage and serve very hot.
Stuffed Green Peppers
Cut tops and remove centers of sweet green peppers; cover with boiling water and let stand about 10 minutes. Make a stuffing of cooked rice seasoned well with butter, salt, finely chopped onion, moistening well with strained tomato. Fill peppers with mixture, cover with buttered crumbs and bake in a moderate oven about ^ of an hour.
[150] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Creamed Spinach
Two cups of chopped cooked spinach, 1 cup of medium white sauce, salt, pepper, few grains nutmeg. Combine ingredients and reheat.
Green Peas Maitre d 'Hotel
2 cups green peas. 3^ teaspoon lemon juice.
1 mint leaf. Salt and pepper.
2 tablespoons butter or substitute.
Cook peas in a small quantity of boiling salted water, until tender, leaving kettle uncovered. Mix butter, chopped mint, salt, pepper and lemon juice. Drain peas, add butter mixture, return to fire and melt and serve.
Pink Beans Spanish
2 cup beans. 1 pimento or green pepper,
1 onion. chopped.
2 cups strained tomato or to- 1 tablespoon butter or sub- mato sauce. stitute.
1 teaspoon salt.
Wash, then soak beans over night; drain, cover with boil- ing water and cook ^ hour. Drain again, cover again with fresh boiling water and cook until tender. Melt butter, add onion and pimento and cook for about 5 minutes, then add tomato. Drain beans, add the sauce and simmer about half an hour.
Stuffed Tomatoes
Cut a thin slice from the smooth end of tomatoes. Scoop out the pulp and mix it with an equal quantity of cold cooked rice, macaroni or bread crumbs. Add season- ing of salt, pepper and a few drops of onion juice. Refill tomato shells, replace covers and bake J/2 hour. A table- spoon or more of finely chopped ham adds variety to this 'dish.
Boiled Cabbage
Allow cabbage to soak in cold water for at least half an hour before cooking. Place in rapidly boiling water to which 2 teaspoonfuls of salt have been added. Boil in an
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [151]
uncovered saucepan about 25 minutes. The cabbage should be white and thoroughly cooked in that time. Longer cooking will cause it to be tough and indigestible. Drain and serve plain or with White, Hollandaise or Drawn Butter sauce.
Celery in White Sauce
Wash, scrape and cut celery stalks in 1-inch pieces; cook 20 minutes or until soft in boiling salted water; drain, and to 2 cups of celery add 1 cup of white sauce. This is a most satisfactory way of using the outer stalks of celery.
Creamed Carrots
Cut carrots, after scraping into slices; let boil in boiling water until tender; drain, and add to 1 cupful of well- seasoned white sauce.
Canned Vegetables
Open and remove from can at once. Drain off all liquid with the exception of corn and tomatoes and let stand an hour or more in fresh cold water. As the vegetables have already been cooked they only require reheating and seasoning. A double boiler will be found the most satis- factory method for reheating. It requires about 15 min- utes to heat thoroughly. A bit of butter and salt are added when the vegetables are put in the boiler. Heated in this manner the vegetables will not require water and there will be no danger of burning, as is easily the case with corn. Milk or cream may be added if desired.
Stuffed Vegetables
Onions, green peppers, tomatoes and eggplant are cooked in this manner: Scald the vegetables a few minutes, then place in cold water and remove the peel of the tomatoes or onions, and rub off the skins of green peppers and egg plants with a cloth. The centers are removed and the cavities filled with a stuffing made of seasoned bread crumbs mixed with a little melted butter, or the portion removed may be chopped fine and added to the crurnbs. Place a small piece of butter on top of each and bake in a hot oven. Serve plain or with a sauce.
[152] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Vegetables au Gratin
Left-over vegetables are usually used, and almost any variety may be prepared in this manner: Cut vegetables into cubes or slices. Make a white sauce; butter a baking dish and arrange a layer of vegetables in it, season, then add a layer of white sauce. Repeat until dish is filled. Cover the top with a layer of soft crumbs moistened with melted butter. Bake in a moderate oven. Cheese may be added to the white sauce.
Scalloped Vegetables
This is also an excellent way to use left-over vegetables. Cut vegetables in slices or cubes. Butter a baking dish, arrange a layer of vegetables, season, then add a layer of soft crumbs, dotted over with a little butter. Repeat until dish is filled, having a layer of crumbs on top. Bake in a moderate oven until nicely browned.
Boiled Potatoes for Mashing
Wash potatoes with a small brush and peel as thin as possible, for much of the mineral salts lie next to the skin. Place in rapidly boiling water and cook until they may be pierced with a fork. Drain and shake them in the saucepan for a few moments to make them mealy. Mash well, being sure there are no lumps, and add butter and salt in pro- portion to the number of potatoes. Beat well, adding gradually enough scalded milk to make them creamy, and continue to beat until white and light. A potato ricer can be used instead of mashing them, then seasonings and milk can be added, and the potatoes beaten until light.
Baked Potatoes
Potatoes should be of uniform size. Wash well and place in a hot oven for 45 minutes, when they should be mellow when pressed between the fingers. If skins are desired soft, rub each potato with butter or substitute before baking. When baked remove at once from the oven; press between the hands until the skins breaks, or prick with a fork to release the steam; this will prevent the potato from becoming soggy.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [153]
Steamed Potatoes
Wash potatoes well. Do not remove skins. Place in a steamer over boiling water, cover closely and cook for about 45 minutes, or until potatoes are tender.
Potato Puffs
1 teaspoon salt. 1 tablespoon melted butter.
2 cups of hot mashed potatoes. 1 tablespoon finely chopped par- 1 egg yolk. sley.
Shape mashed potatoes into small balls and place on a greased baking pan. Beat egg yolk, add butter and brush the potato balls with the mixture. Sprinkle with parsley and set in a hot oven to brown.
French Fried Potatoes
Wash and peel potatoes. Cut into thin, lengthwise strips and let stand in cold water an hour or more. Drain, dry on a cloth and fry in deep fat. Heat fat until a piece of bread will brown in 1>^ minutes. Have kettle half full of the fat. Do not add many potatoes at a time. Drain on soft paper and sprinkle with salt. Test the fat each time before freshfpotatoes are added.
Potato Balls
Wash and peel potatoes and cut into balls with a French vegetable cutter. Cook in boiling water until tender but not broken. Drain, roll in minced parsley and serve.
Duchess Potatoes
To 3 cups of hot riced or mashed potatoes add 2 table- spoons of butter, 1 teaspoon of salt and 1 egg slightly beaten. Mix well, beating until light. Put through a pastry bag with a star tube or shape into pyramids with a spoon. Brush over with beaten egg (yolk only preferred) and brown in a rather hot oven.
Franconia Potatoes
Peel and prepare as for boiled potatoes; parboil 10 minutes, dram and either place in pan with roast beef,
[154] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
basting often with fat in the pan, or cook in a heavy frying pan with plenty of fat. Cover closely. Turn often so that potatoes may be a deep golden brown.
Potatoes en Casserole
Wash and peel potatoes. Cut into quarters crosswise. Place in a baking dish, sprinkle lightly with salt and add 2 tablespoons of butter for 5 medium sized potatoes Cover closely and bake in a moderate oven about 45 minutes.
Fried Summer Squash
Pare and slice the squash. Beat 1 egg, add 2 tablespoons of water or milk and season with salt and pepper. Dip the slices of squash into the egg mixture, then into fine dry bread crumbs or flour. Heat a heavy frying pan, add short- ening and when hot add the slices of squash, cooking until a golden brown on each side.
French Fried Onions
Peel and slice onions very thin, cutting cross-wise. Soak in milk for about 1 hour then drain and dredge with flour. Have fat heated until a piece of bread will turn a golden brown in \}4 minutes. Drain on soft paper. Further information regarding fat will be found under deep fat frying.
Green Com
Silk should be brown and sweet and juicy, milk should flow from the kernels when pricked with a fork. Corn is easily spoiled by overcooking. Have a quantity of rapidly boiling unsalted water; add the ears of corn a few at a time so as not to reduce the temperature of the water. Fresh corn should cook in about 10 minutes. Cooking in salted water hardens and wrinkles com.
Kohl Rabi
Kohl rabi is a variety of cabbage, but the flavor and nutriment are stored mainly in the stem; this looks some- what like a turnip and grows just above the ground. It should be used when young and tender or when it is not
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [155]
more than 3 inches in diameter. When old it is tough and fibrous. To boil, wash and peel and cut in cubes or slices. Add to boiling water and cook in an uncovered saucepan until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and season with salt and butter.
Escalloped Potatoes
3 cups sliced raw potatoes. 2 cups of scalded milk.
3 tablespoons flour. Salt.
4 tablespoonfuls butter or Pepper, substitute.
Grease a baking dish and put in a layer of potatoes; sprinkle with 1 tablespoonful of flour, J^ teaspoonful of salt and a little pepper, and dot with butter or substitute. Repeat with a second layer of potatoes and so on until all are used, and then pour over the hot milk, until it barely shows through the potato slices. Cover and bake an hour in a moderate oven until potatoes become brown.
Escalloped Potatoes with Bacon
Prepare escalloped potatoes according to the preceding recipe, omitting the fat. Cut the rind from 6 slices of bacon and let bacon stand 5 minutes in boiling water. Drain, then place the bacon strips over the potatoes 20 minutes before the latter are cooked. The bacon fat will drain over the potatoes.
Potatoes in the Half Shell
Select smooth, medium sized potatoes, wash and bake. Remove from oven. Cut in halves, scoop out inside, mash. For 6 potatoes use 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 3 tablespoon- fulls hot milk, salt and pepper. Beat thoroughly, refill shells and bake 5 to 10 minutes in hot oven. Grated cheese may be sprinkled over the top and allowed to melt.
Stuffed Potatoes with Ham
Prepare potatoes as for half shell. To the mashed po- tatoes add yi cup of minced ham or other meat. Beat well, return to shells, brush over with beaten egg and brown in a hot oven. A good luncheon dish.
[156] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Potato Pancakes
One cup grated raw potatoes, 1 tablespoon finely chopped raw onion, 1 egg, >^ cupful flour, ^ teaspoonful baking powder, 1 teaspoonful salt, a little pepper. Cook on a hot greased griddle like pancakes.
Potatoes Baked with Sausage
Select large potatoes of uniform size. Pare, remove centers lengthwise with an apple corer. Put a small sausage in each cavity. Place in a pan and bake in a hot oven from 30 to 45 minutes according to the size. Melt 2 tablespoons of shortening and baste potatoes frequently. Centers of potatoes may be used for mashed potatoes. A nice luncheon dish.
Glazed Potatoes
Roll small boiled potatoes in slightly beaten yolk of egg. Set in a greased pan and bake until a golden brown.
Potatoes O'Brien
Use cooked potatoes, cut in thin slices or cubes; place a layer of potatoes in a buttered baking dish; add a layer of white sauce, 2 tablespoons grated cheese and 1 table- spoon shredded pimentos; continue in layers until dish is filled, having a layer of fine buttered crumbs on top. Bake in a medium oven until brown on top.
% Cottage Pie
Cover the bottom of a greased baking dish with hot mashed potatoes, add a thick layer of cooked meat, chopped or cut in small pieces and seasoned with salt and pepper and a few drops of onion juice, and moistened with some of the gravy. Cover with a thin layer of mashed potatoes and bake in a hot oven long enough to heat through.
Potato Souffle
Beat until light 2 cupfuls hot mashed potatoes. Mix 2 tablespoonfuls butter with }4 cup hot milk, then add to potatoes. Stir in well beaten yolks of 2 eggs, season with
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [157]
salt and pepper. Stir until very creamy, then fold in the well-beaten whites of the eggs. Pile lightly in a but- tered baking dish and bake in a quick oven until nicely browned.
Creamed Potatoes with Eggs
3 cups cold diced potatoes. 4 hard-cooked eggs.
2 cups white sauce. Salt and pepper to season.
Add diced potatoes and chopped whites of hard-cooked eggs to white sauce and reheat. Turn into serving dish. Rub yolks through a sieve; sprinkle over the top.
Lyonnaise Potatoes
Melt 2 tablespoons shortening: add 1 tablespoon finely chopped onion. When onion is yellow, add 2 cups cooked potatoes cut in cubes. Season with salt and pepper, cook until potatoes are heated through and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley and serve.
Quick Creamed Potatoes
2 cups cold sliced potatoes. J^ teaspoon salt.
2 tablespoons flour. Pepper.
13/^ cups milk. 1 tablespoon chopped parsley,
1 tablespoon butter.
Slice potatoes, dredge with flour, tossing so each slice is partly coated. Put in a saucepan; add milk; cook dowly, stirring mixture or gently shaking saucepan untirall is creamy; add seasoning; sprinkle with parsley and serve.
Boiled Sweet Potatoes
Wash potatoes. Drop in boiling water to cover and cook until tender about 30 minutes, constantly boiling.
Steamed Sweet Potatoes
Wash potatoes. Place in steamer over boiling water and steam until tender about 45 minutes for medium sized potatoes.
[158] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Mashed Sweet Potatoes
Wash and peel potatoes. Plunge into boiling water and cook until tender. Drain, set back on stove in a warm place to dry a few minutes, then mash or press through a potato ricer. For 5 medium sized potatoes allow }/^ cup of hot milk; add 1 tablespoonful of butter and 1 tablespoon- ful of sugar to the hot milk. Add gradually to the mashed sweet potatoes and beat until very light.
Candied Sweet Potatoes
Wash and cook potatoes in boiling water until tender. Drain, peel and cut in two, lengthwise, arrange in a buttered baking dish. Make a syrup of }4 cup of sugar, J4 cup of hot water and 3 tablespoons of butter. Pour over potatoes and bake in a medium oven until potatoes are brown about 30 minutes. Baste frequently.
Caramel Sweet Potatoes
Boil sweet potatoes, cool and remove skins. Cut in slices. Butter a baking dish, put in a layer of potatoes, sprinkle with brown sugar, a little salt, 1 tablespoon of butter cut in bits; 1 tablespoon of flour, add another layer of potatoes; season as directed above and continue until potatoes have all been used. Cover with milk and bake in a moderate oven until brown. Care must be taken not to let the sugar burn.
Sweet Potato Cones
3 cups mashed sweet potatoes. 1 tablespoon butter.
1 egg. 2 teaspoons brown sugar.
1 egg yolk. ^2 teaspoon salt.
Combine ingredients, heat until creamy; let cool, shape, roll in slightly beaten white of egg, then in cracker or fine bread crumbs. Put in a greased pan and bake in a hot oven until brown or fry in deep fat.
Sweet Potato Glace
Boil or steam sweet potatoes until tender. Peel and cut in thick slices lengthwise. Place in a buttered pan, cover with bits of butter, a thick sprinkling of brown sugar and bake until a rich brown.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [159]
Savory Sauces
To make a really good sauce is considered an art in itself and one which has not always been given the careful consid- eration it deserves. Many common-place and otherwise hopeless dishes may be transformed and made most ap- petizing when served with a well-made sauce. If given care a smooth creamy, well-cooked sauce is not difficult to pre- pare, and may be plain or quite elaborate, as desired. However, it must be free from all lumps and thoroughly cooked and the seasoning used should be suitable for the food the sauce is to be served with.
Sauces made with milk are economical, for they supply nutriment and increase the value of the food with which they are served. In using left-overs of fish, meat and vege- tables it is almost necessary to use a well-seasoned sauce.
A plain white sauce is perhaps the most useful adjunct to good cooking and the foundation recipe may be varied in many appetizing ways by the addition of other ingredients. This white sauce is made of a different thickness, according to how it is to be used. For creamed soups it is quite thin, for croquettes very thick, and for the usual creamed dishes of a medium thickness. The medium sauce is made by using 2 tablespoons (level) of butter or butter substitute, 2 tablespoons of flour to each half-pint measuring cup of cold liquid, which may be water, milk, thin cream or white orbrownstock,depending upon what kind of sauce you wish. With these measurements in mind you can prepare any quantity of sauce desired.
There are several approved methods of preparation, but the one given will be found very easy and most satis- factory if the directions are carefully followed. Put the butter or butter substitute in a saucepan over a low fire and melt, but do not brown; when fat is melted remove from the fire and add flour, stirring until smooth and well blended; return to the fire and cook the mixture until it bubbles or becomes frothy, then add the cold milk gradu- ally, stirring until boiling point is reached and sauce thick- ens. Add seasoning.
If it is necessary to keep this sauce hot for any length
[ 160] MRS, DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
of time, set in a dish of hot water, add a few small pieces of butter and cover. This will prevent a crust from forming on top. Do not boil after the sauce becomes creamy and thick or it may separate and become oily. If this should happen, add 1 tablespoon of cold liquid for each cup of sauce, place over the fire and stir constantly until the boiling point is reached again.
The secret of good white sauce is in cooking the flour until the starch grains burst; this removes the raw, pasty, unpleasant taste one so often finds in undercooked sauces. If the liquid is added gradually and stirred con- stantly there will be no difficulty in keeping the sauce smooth.
A brown sauce is made in the same manner, allowing the fat to brown before adding the flour, then cooking these two ingredients together until brown, using a dark stock or water for the liquid. The best results are obtained if all the seasonings are added before the sauce is completely cooked.
The more delicate sauces are thickened with the yolks of eggs and a quantity of butter. These sauces require considerable skill in preparation.
For every-day cooking the plain sauce may easily be varied to form almost any sauce desired.
Catsup, Chili sauce, Worcestershire sauce. Kitchen Bouquet, whole cloves, grated onion, etc., all give a variety of flavorings.
Stock of some type can be used in place of milk. The thickness of the sauce is governed by taste. One table- spoonful of flour and shortening to each cupful of liquid gives a thin sauce. Two tablespoonfuls of each give a medium sauce.
Foundation Medium White Sauce
2 tablespoons butter or 1 cup cold milk,
substitute. 3^ teaspoon salt.
2 tablespoons flour. White pepper to taste.
Melt shortening, add flour, mix until smooth; cook until
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [161]
frothy, then add cold milk and cook until creamy, add seasonings.
This sauce is used for all plain creamed dishes such as vegetables, fish, meat and toast.
Cream Sauce
Follow white sauce recipe, using thin cream or half cream and half milk. To be used when a richer sauce is desired.
Celery Sauce
To each cup of lic|uid allow yi cup of chopped celery. Cook celery in boilmg water until tender. In making the white sauce use ]/2 cup of water in which celery was cooked and ^ cup of milk. When sauce is cooked add seasoning and celery. To be served with fish or meat.
Cheese Sauce
Follow the white sauce recipe. For each cup of sauce add }/2 cup of grated cheese. Season with paprika, cayenne, salt and ^ teaspoon of mustard, which should be blended with the flour to prevent lumping. This is a very nice sauce to serve in place of Welsh rarebit.
Onion Sauce
Follow white sauce recipe. Slice 1 small onion and cook in boiling water until tender. Press through a sieve and add to the white sauce.
Egg Sauce
Follow white sauce recipe. For each cup of sauce add the finely chopped white of a hard-cooked egg. Mash the yolk and add to the sauce, which will give a golden color. Serve this sauce with boiled fish.
Allemande Sauce
Use white sauce recipe. To each cup of sauce add 1 well- beaten egg and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice. The hot sauce should be added to the egg, then returned to the fire
[162] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
and cooked 1 minute. Do not add lemon juice until ready to serve. If the lemon juice is allowed to cool with the sauce it will cause it to curdle.
Drawn Butter Sauce
Follow white sauce recipe, using water instead of milk for the liquid, and season with a tablespoon of lemon juice. This sauce is nice for vegetables, particularly asparagus.
Hot Tartare Sauce
To each I/t. cup of hot white sauce add }/z cup of mayon- naise, 1 teaspoon of vinegar, 2 tablespoons each of chopped olives and sour pickles, and 1 teaspoon of onion juice. Serve with any fried fish.
Bechamel Sauce
Follow white sauce recipe. For each cup of sauce add the yolks of 2 eggs, well beaten. For seasoning use 1 tea- spoon of grated onion and 1 teaspoon of onion juice, a little celery salt, and a small piece of bay leaf. Add these to the sauce when you add the cold milk. Remove the bay leaf before serving. Do not boil after eggs have been added or the mixture will curdle. This sauce is suitable for vege- tables.
Poulette Sauce
Follow white sauce recipe, using yi cup of cream and yi cup of chicken stock, or to 1 cup of white sauce add >^ cup of cream. When boiling point is reached pour the sauce over 2 egg yolks, well beaten, and cook 1 minute. Remove from the fire and add 1 tablespoon of lemon juice and 1 tablespoon of butter. Serve over diced chicken, crab, lobster, sweetbreads or oysters.
Caper Sauce
Follow white sauce recipe. Add to each cup of sauce 2 tablespoons of capers; or the drawn butter sauce may be used and capers added. This sauce is used with boiled mutton.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [163]
Cream Curry Sauce
Follow white sauce recipe. To each cup of sauce allow 2 teaspoons of curry powder, which should be blended with the flour to prevent lumping. When cooked add 2 tea- spoons of onion juice. To be used over reheated mutton or lamb.
Horseradish Sauce
M cup grated horseradish. 1 tablespoon vinegar.
>i cup soft bread crumbs. M teaspoon paprika.
}4 teaspoon salt. 3^ cup of white sauce.
Make the white sauce and add remaining ingredients.
Bread Sauce
(For Game or Fowl)
VA cups milk. 2 tablespoons butter.
% cup bread crumbs. Pepper.
1 small onion. 2 cloves. ^2 teaspoon salt.
Put milk in double boiler, add onion stuck with cloves and half of the bread crumbs. Cook 20 minutes; remove onion, add seasonings and butter and remainder of crumbs. Serve at once.
Foundation Brown Sauce
3 tablespoons of shortening. 1 tablespoon minced onion.
2 tablespoons flour. 1 cupful of stock. 3^ teaspoon salt. Pepper.
Melt shortening, add onion and cook until a golden brown, then add flour, stir until well mixed and brown; then add stock and stir until creamy. If stock is not ob- tainable add 1 bouillon cube to a cupful of hot water or add 1 teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet to a cupful of hot water.
Piquante Sauce
To 1 cupful of brown sauce add 2 tablespoons of finely- chopped sour pickles and 1 teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce.
[164] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Hot Mustard Sauce
14 cup of medium white or 2 teaspoons of prepared English
brown sauce. mustard.
1 teaspoon vinegar. 1 teaspoon grated onion.
1 tablespoon prepared French
mustard or
Prepare the foundation sauce and add remaining in- gredients.
Cold Mustard Sauce
To y2 cupful of thick mayonnaise add 1 tablespoon of prepared French Mustard. To serve with cold asparagus, artichokes, etc.
Paprika Sauce
1 cup medium white sauce. 1 teaspoon paprika.
1 tablespoon grated onion.
Add grated onion and paprika to the melted shortening before adding the flour when preparing the white sauce. Proceed as for white sauce.
Mint Sauce
6 mint leaves. M teaspoon salt.
34 cup boiling water. 3^ teaspoon pepper.
2 tablespoons vinegar. 1 teaspoon sugar.
Wash mint leaves and chop as fine as possible. Add boil- ing water, sugar and salt. Cover and let stand about 20 minutes. Add vinegar and pepper. To be served with lamb or mutton.
FISH SAUCES Maitre d'Hotel Butter
Beat }i cup of butter to a cream, add gradually and very slowly 1 tablespoon of lemon juice; season with }i teaspoon of salt and a dash of pepper, and 1 teaspoon of chopped parsley. Spread on the hot fish.
Anchovy Sauce
Melt 1 tablespoon of butter, add 1 tablespoon of flour, mix until smooth, cook until frothy, then add >^ cup cold milk or fish stock. Stir until thick and add 1 tablespoon of anchovy paste.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [165]
Mock Hollandaise Sauce
2 tablespoons butter. 1 egg yolk, well beaten.
2 tablespoons flour. 1 tablespoon lemon juice.
1 cup of milk or fish stock. }4. teaspoon salt.
Melt butter, add flour, mix well, cook until frothy, then add cold milk and cook until smooth. Add beaten yolk diluted with some of the sauce; season and add lemon juice very slowly, and take 1 tablespoon of butter, break into bits and add gradually, beating well.
Sauce Tartare
To ^2 cup of thick mayonnaise add 1 teaspoon of onion juice and 3 sour pickles, chopped fine. Additional flavor- ing may be added by using chopped olives and capers.
Shrimp or Oyster Sauce
1 cup of medium white sauce. 1 teaspoon lemon juice. 1/2 cup of shrimps or small oysters.
Prepare sauce and just before serving add the lemon juice and shrimps.
Meuniere Sauce
Melt 2 tablespoons of butter and cook over a low fire until a golden brown. The butter must be watched con- stantly as it bubbles and will boil over if sauce pan is small, and if the butter bums it is very indigestible. To be served over broiled or pan fried fish.
SWEET SAUCES Marshmallow Sauce
1 cup granulated sugar. 6 to 8 marshmallows.
3^ cup boiling water. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
Boil sugar and water 5 minutes after boiling com- mences. Do not stir while cooking. Remove from fire, add marshmallows and beat until melted; add vanilla.
[166] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Saboyon Sauce
2 egg yolks. ]/^ cup orange juice. % cup sugar.
Beat well and cook in double boiler. Stir constantly and remove from boiler as soon as mixture becomes creamy.
Hard Sauce
One-third cup butter beaten until creamy, % cup con- fectioners* sugar. Add sugar gradually, beating well. Flavor with 1 teaspoon vanilla or other flavoring. Sprinkle with nutmeg.
Foamy Sauce
To Hard Sauce add J^ cup boiling water and stir until sauce is melted, then fold in 1 well beaten egg white; flavor.
Hot Chocolate Sauce
}4, cup sugar. 1 tablespoon of butter.
3 tablespoons ground chocolate. }i cup of hot water.
Cook about 15 minutes, add 1 teaspoon vanilla. Can be used hot or cold.
Sultana Chocolate Sauce
To the hot chocolate sauce add J^ cupful of seedless raisins.
Caramel Sauce
y^ cup sugar. 3^ cup water.
Melt dry sugar over a low fire until it becomes a golden syrup, being careful not to burn. Add water and boil 10 minutes. Then mix 1 tablespoon of butter and one table- spoon flour and add to mixture. Cook until thick.
Strawberry Sauce
Wash a cup of hulled strawberries, add half a cup sugar, a pinch of nutmeg and set aside In a cool place until wanted. Use as a sauce for cottage pudding, corn starch, blanc mange, tapioca pudding, any form of gelatine or pour over vanilla ice cream.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [167]
Custard Sauce
1 cup milk. H cup sugar.
1 egg. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
Heat milk in double boiler. Beat egg, add sugar and pour hot milk over mixture. Return to fire and cook, stir- ring constantly until custard is slightly thick and will coat the spoon. Remove from fire, pour into bowl, and when cool add flavoring.
Apricot Pudding Sauce
Add yi cup of mashed strained cooked apricots to the hard sauce.
Orange Sauce
yi cup butter. 3^ orange, juice and grated
y2 cup powdered sugar. rind.
Cream butter well, add sugar gradually and beat until creamy. Then add grated rind and juice gradually, beat- ing well.
Vanilla Sauce
y2 cup sugar. 1 cup of boiling water.
2 tablespoons flour. 1 tablespoon butter. Pinch of salt. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
Mix sugar, salt and flour; add boiling water gradually, place over fire and boil until thick or until flour is well cooked. Remove from stove, add butter and vanilla. This sauce can be kept warm over hot water.
Nutmeg Sauce
Follow directions for vanilla sauce using % teaspoonful of grated nutmeg instead of vanilla.
Fruit Sauce
Crush berries of any kind, sweeten and let stand until sugar is dissolved.
[168] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Salads and Salad Dressings
While the food value of a green salad is not high, the salts they contain are valuable and the oil used in the various dressings supply the nutriment, making them a wholesome food. In almost any climate some green salad vegetable may be obtained all the year round, and with cooked or canned vegetables an acceptable salad can always be made. There are certain things essential for a good salad. First, it should be cold; if a green salad, it must be crisp; the dressing ingredients must be carefully proportioned and blended so the salad will be neither oily nor acid, and the whole well mixed. In using French dressing there should be just sufficient to cover the vegetables when mixed, and none left in the bottom of the bowl after mixing.
If the greens are prepared several hours before wanted they may be placed (after drying) in a tightly covered pail and set in a cool place until needed, when they will be very crisp, fresh and cool. Never cut up lettuce, but break the leaves, if necessary, to the desired size. Dressing should never be added to a green salad until time for serving, otherwise the salad greens will become wilted and lose the desired crispness. Always remove the skin from tomatoes. A tomato salad is quickly prepared, served skin and all, but the skin is indigestible.
An easy way to remove the skins is to put the tomatoes in a basket or colander and plunge them into boiling (not just hot) water and let them remain 1 minute only; then plunge into cold water. The skins may then be easily removed. Set aside to chill before slicing. When stuffing raw tomatoes for salad, remove the skin, cut a slice off the stem and scoop out the centers, sprinkle with salt and invert to drain and chill. Just before serving fill centers with the prepared filling and set on lettuce leaves.
Another method but not so quickly accomplished, is to rub each tomato over the surface with the blunt edge of a knife, then peel.
Cooked vegetables for salads should be thoroughly drained and quite cold before using. Turn artichokes up- side down so that all the moisture will be drained off.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [169]
Cabbage should be shredded very fine with a sharp, long knife rather than chopped. After shredding let the cabbage stand in cold water to become crisp and drain well before using.
Peel cucumbers and cut off a thick slice from each end; soak in cold water until ready to serve, then cut in thin slices. Never soak cucumbers in salted water, for then they become tough and wilted, besides increasing their indigesti- bility. Green peppers should be scalded for about 5 min- utes, when the outside skin may be rubbed oflF. Cover with cold water until ready to use. Parsley should be kept in a glass of cold water, wetting only the roots. In this way it will keep fresh several days.
If using canned vegetables, such as peas, lima beans, asparagus or string beans, open the can at least half an hour before wanted and drain off all the liquid. Cover with cold water until ready to use. Treated in this way they will taste more like the fresh vegetable.
When making a salad of cooked vegetables it will be found an improvement to mix with a French dressing and allow to stand or marinate in a cool place about an hour before serving. With a green salad the dressing should never be added until time to serve, as the dressing causes green vegetables to become wilted.
Meat and poultry should be freed from skin and gristle and cut in small cubes. Fish should have all the bones and skin removed and pulled apart or flaked with a fork. All left-over vegetables, fish or meat can be utilized in salads, and almost all combinations of cooked or green vegetables make a palatable one.
A combination of fruits makes a pleasant change from the plain fruit itself and offers a good way to add the differ- ent helpful salts and acids into the system. Containing iron, tartrates, gum, pectin and fruit sugars and other saline qualities, a mixture of fruits is a very desirable dish. Use only good, firm fruit for salads and either fresh or cooked fruit will give equally good results. The flavor of a fruit salad is improved by using lemon juice instead of vinegar in the dressing. Almost any combination of fruits will be acceptable for a salad.
[170] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
The requirements for a good salad consists in having all ingredients cold, the greens crisp and dry. For French dressing select a good oil — olive oil has the best flavor. Do not use too much dressing; there should be just enough to cover each bit of the ingredients, no more. Meat, fish and cooked vegetable salads may stand an hour in French dressing before serving. This is called a marinade and will improve the flavor of the salad. When ready to serve pour over any desired dressing regardless of the marinade. Much of the flavor of all salad dressings depends upon a good quality of both vinegar and oil.
The following rules govern generally in regard to the serving of salads.
1. Vegetable or fruit salads, with a simple dressing may be served with a meat course.
2. More elaborate fruit and vegetable combinations should accompany light meats as chicken, fish, tongue, etc.
3. Meat or fish salads with mayonnaise or boiled dress- ing may be used in place of the meat course.
4. Never repeat in a salad a vegetable used in a previ- ous course.
5. Hard cooked eggs combine well with fowl, fish and vegetables.
6. Cream cheese combines with vegetables and nuts and with some fruits, pineapple preferred.
7. Eggs, cheese and nuts should not be used in salads to accompany a meat course.
8. Starchy salads should not be served when the menu contains much starchy food.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [171]
Different Salad Dressing for Each Day in the Week
A French or Mayonnaise dressing is more often used plain, but by adding various flavorings, can be greatly changed, giving variety at a time of the year when salad greens are limited. Take lettuce which we always have in California. This popular green salad vegetable could be served many days in succession but with a different dress- ing for each day. In this manner variety is introduced and the family will not tire of lettuce, as would often be the case were the same dressing used each meal. There is a strong appetite appeal in variety and when the person who plans the meals realizes this she will have learned one of the most valuable lessons in menu building.
Salad dressings have as their base, acid, oil and season- ings. Your base recipe may be one of the three foundation formulae — French, Mayonnaise or Cooked dressing. French dressing or variations of it is the most suitable for green salads and for a salad served with a heavy meal. It is less hearty than either the Mayonnaise or Cooked dressing, and will be relished more than the richer dressings. Cooked dressing is preferred by those who do not care for the flavor of oil. This dressing admits of as many variations as a Mayonnaise dressing. It is a very convenient salad dress- ing for it can be prepared in a quantity and kept for some time. Mayonnaise is considered by many somewhat diSi- cult to prepare. Lack of success might be traced to two things — haste in adding the oil, and not having the ingredi- ents used all of about the same temperature.
If the oil is cold and the egg and acid warm, it is difficult to make the egg absorb the oil; or it might be the egg was cold and the oil warm. It is far easier to have all ingredi- ents cold. If that is not possible, have them all about the same temperature. One egg yolk will only absorb one cupful of oil and remain thick and firm. If more than that quantity is used, the dressing may separate; if not at once, it will do so after standing some time.
The seasonings and a teaspoon of acid should be added
[172] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
to the egg yolk and the whole beaten or well mixed before any oil is added. Add about a teaspoonful of oil, then beat well, using a small spoon or a very small egg beater. Always use a small bowl for making mayonnaise, so there will not be much surface at the bottom of the bowl. This enables you to mix the ingredients well. Add oil, a tea- spoonful at a time, until the mixture begins to thicken. As soon as this dressing has once become thick, the oil may be added in larger quantity, if it is beaten well or until ab- sorbed, between each addition of oil. An egg beater can be used and the dressing made very quickly after it has once thickened. If more acid is desired, it can be added during the mixing or at the last. Adding the acid to the egg yolk before the oil is used, lessens the liability of the mixture to curdle. The egg beater also aids in keeping the dressing from curdling, as the larger surface over which the oil is spread the less likelihood of separation. One point, most important: be sure all the oil added at any one time is entirely absorbed before adding more. If, after all these precautions, the dressing should curdle, put it aside, and begin the process all over again with another egg yolk. As soon as this begins to thicken, the curdled mixture may be added gradually, just as you would add oil. This should remedy the trouble and prevent waste. A double quantity of oil can be used. When well made a mayon- naise is smooth, thick and glossy in appearance. Dressing made with these proportions — 1 cupful of oil to each yolk of egg — ^will keep some time without separating, if kept in a cool place.
Oil is the main ingredient in a French dressing, and if the salad is to be perfect, to have the right flavor, a good olive oil is required. Other vegetable oils may be used for mayonnaise with very good results, but French dressing will lack flavor if made of an inferior oil. Much depends on the vinegar, which sould be pure and not too sharp. To prepare a French dressing, put all the ingredients into a small glass fruit jar, adjust the cover and shake vigor- ously until well blended and thick. A perfect emulsion will result, which will remain thick for half an hour or more.
Cooked dressing somewhat resembles mayonnaise and usually has butter added to supply the necessary fat.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [173]
Cooked dressing is usually served to persons who do not enjoy the flavor of oil. However, oil may be used, as the flavor is scarcely perceptible after it has been heated.
Mayonnaise Dressing
1 cup oil. ^ teaspoon salt.
3 teaspoons vinegar (about). J^ teaspoon of mustard.
1 raw egg yolk. Dash of pepper or paprika.
It is essential that everything for a mayonnaise be of the same temperature; not one ingredient very cold and the other very warm. Put the egg yolk in a small bowl and beat until creamy, then add the mustard, salt, pepper and mix until smooth; add 1 teaspoon of vinegar, then add a fev/ drops of oil, using a small egg beater; add oil gradu- ally, beating until thick between each addition of oil. This can be accomplished very quickly with the egg beater. Add remaining vinegar when all the oil has been used. By adding a small quantity of acid to the egg before using any oil prevents a possibility of the dressing separating. If the dressing is nottobeused at once addl tablespoonful of hot water and mix well. This is also a preventive of separation. This dressing is a base for many appetizing combinations.
Thousand Island Dressing
1 cup mayonnaise. }4 cup chili sauce.
1 tablespoon chopped pimen- 2 tablespoons of French dress-
tos. ing.
1 tablespoon chopped green Seasoning of paprika.
pepper.
Rich Louis Dressing
1 cup mayonnaise. 14 cup whipped cream.
14 cup chili sauce. Seasonings of salt and paprika.
This makes a rich fish cocktail sauce as well as salad dressing.
Ghantilly Dressing
To ^2 cup of mayonnaise add 1 tablespoon of grated horseradish and 1 teaspoon of onion juice.
[174] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Russian Salad Dressing
}4 cup mayonnaise dressing. 1 teaspoon green peppers, 1 teaspoonful pimentos chopped fine.
chopped fine. }4. teaspoon paprika.
1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar. % teaspoon salt.
3^ cup cliili sauce. 3^ cup olive oil.
To the mayonnaise dressing add the extra 3^ cup of oil, then the chiH sauce, seasonings, vinegar and chopped pep- pers.
FRENCH DRESSING AND VARIATIONS French Dressing
3 tablespoons oil. 3^ teaspoon pepper or paprika.
1 tablespoon vinegar or 1 teaspoon onion juice, if
lemon juice. desired. H teaspoon salt.
Put all the ingredients in a small fruit jar, adjust cover and shake for a fev^ seconds, when the ingredients v^ill be well mixed. The dressing should be thick.
French Dressing for Fruit
3 tablespoons oil. 3^ teaspoon salt.
1 tablespoon lemon juice. 1 teaspoon powdered sugar.
Mix in a glass jar, tightly covered, until thick.
Cream Cheese Dressing
Mix twice the quantity of French dressing. Take >^ a cream cheese and beat until creamy, then gradually beat in the French dressing. Season rather highly with pap- rika and a dash of cayenne pepper.
French Pepper Dressing To the French dressing add 1 teaspoon Worcestershire,
MRS. DE GRAFTS COOK BOOK [175]
yi teaspoon of curry powder, 1 teaspoon onion juice, 2 tablespoons mixed green pepper.
Put all ingredients in a covered fruit jar and shake until thick. Pour over any green or cooked vegetable salad. If curry is not liked it may be omitted.
Italian Dressing
Add 1 tablespoon of tomato catsup to the French dress- ing, then mix as directed.
Horseradish Dressing
Add 1 teaspoon of grated horseradish to the French dressing and mix as directed.
Vinaigrette Dressing
H cup French dressing. Few drops onion juice.
2 capers, chopped. 3^ teaspoon green pepper,
1 small sour pickle, chopped. chopped. K teaspoon parsley chopped.
This sauce is used on asparagus, stuffed tomatoes or Hsh salad.
Roquefort Dressing
J^ cup French dressing. 3^ teaspoon paprika.
2 tablespoons mashed Roquefort cheese.
This dressing is suitable for all green salads.
Parisian Dressing
y^ cup French dressing. 1 teaspoon green peppers,
3 stuffed olives, chopped fine. chopped.
2 green onions, chopped fine. Little Worcestershire sauce.
Mix and let this dressing stand about an hour before serving.
[176] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Plain Loui8 Dressing
3^ cup French dressing. Few drops onion juice.
% cup tomato catsup. ^ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce.
This dressing is suitable for shell fish salads, such as crab, lobster or shrimp.
Cream Salad Dressing
1 cupful of cream (sweet or 3^ teaspoon pepper.
sour). ^ teaspoon dry mustard.
1 teaspoon salt. 1 to 2 tablespoons of vinegar.
Whip the cream until thick. Mix all the other ingredi- ents and gradually beat into the cream. The amount of vinegar required will depend upon whether the cream is sweet or sour. This dressing is relished by those persons who do not like oil.
Cooked Dressing
1 teaspoon flour. ]4 cup water.
1 teaspoon salt. M cup vinegar.
1 teaspoon dry mustard. 1 well beaten egg, or
3^ teaspoon paprika. 2 egg yolks.
1 teaspoon sugar.
Put all ingredients in a double boiler or over hot water; cook, stirring constantly until mixture begins to thicken, then remove from stove and add 1 tablespoon of butter, beating well. Set aside to cool. This dressing, sealed and kept in a cool place will keep a long time. Any of the variations of a mayonnaise dressing will apply to the cooked dressing also.
. Fruit Salad Dressing (Sweet)
One-half cup of sugar boiled with 3^ cup of water for 5 minutes; pour on the well-beaten yolks of 3 eggs; cook over hot water until slightly thickened, stirring constantly. When cool add the juice of one lemon.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [177]
Pineapple Salad Dressing
Melt 2 tablespoons of butter, add 2 tablespoons of flour; ]/2 teaspoon salt; % teaspoon dry mustard, and mix well; cook until frothy, then add 1 cup of pineapple juice, and 1 teaspoon lemon juice. Pour over 1 well beaten egg or 2 egg yolks. Cool. A half cup of whipped cream may be added. Use for any fruit salad.
[178] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Salads
Pimento and Cheese Salad
Mix cream cheese with Mayonnaise until creamy. Rinse canned pimentos in cold water; drain and dry on a cloth. Cut the tops of the pimentos in points and fill with the cheese and trimmings of the peppers cut in small pieces. Set these on lettuce leaves and finish with Mayonnaise above the cheese and around the pimentos or cut the stuffed pimentos in thin slices and lay on crisp lettuce leaves. Garnish with Mayonnaise.
Waldorf Salad
Pare, quarter and core rather sour apples, cut them in small cubes and immediately squeeze over them the juice of a lemon. Add an equal measure of crisp inner stalks of celery, cut in >^-inch pieces. Mix the apple and celery with enough Mayonnaise dressing to moisten and sprinkle 2 tablespoons chopped walnuts over the top. Serve on lettuce leaves.
Salad of Tongue and Spinach
Cut cold, boiled tongue in slices. Press spinach, seasoned with salt, pepper and onion juice, if desired, into well- buttered timbale molds. When cold, unmold on the slices of tongue, set a spoonful of sauce tartare above each form of spinach.
Stuffed Tomato Salad No. 1
Peel the required number of tomatoes, cut a slice from the stem and remove enough of the tomato to leave a hollow cup-shaped receptacle. Season the inside of the tomatoes with salt, and turn, open side downward, on a plate. Let chill until ready to serve. For 6 tomatoes have about 1 cup of thin slices of the tender inner stalks of celery and half a cup of anchovies, wiped free of oil and cut in small bits. Mix these with enough Mayonnaise to hold them together, and fill the tomatoes. Set an anchovy above the filling in each tomato, and garnish the dish with hearts of celery or lettuce.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [179]
Stuffed Tomato Salad No. 2
Peel medium sized tomatoes, scoop out the centers, sprinkle inside lightly with salt and turn upside down to drain and chill. Take the inner stalks of celery and stand in cold water to which a little lemon juice has been added. Prepare the stuffing by cutting celery in small pieces, add- ing some of the tomato taken from the centers, and cut in dice. Mix with a French dressing seasoned with a little onion juice. Fill tomatoes, set in crisp lettuce leaf, place a spoonful of mayonnaise on top and serve.
Stuffed Tomato Salad No. 3
Peel tomatoes, remove centers, sprinkle with salt and invert. Make a stuffing of cup chopped celery, ^2 cup shrimps, >2 cup asparagus tips; mix with a thick Mayon- naise or French dressing; fill tomatoes; garnish with sliced stuffed olives. Crab, lobster or chicken may be used.
California Salad
Peel, halve, and core ripe, juicy pears and, if desired cut the halves in thin slices without cutting quite through; rub them over with the cut side of a lemon, or squeeze upon each piece a few drops of lemon juice to keep them from discoloring. Set a ball of cream cheese in the cavity in the center of the halves of pears; set these on lettuce leaves and pour French dressing over the whole. Canned pears may be used.
Cucumber-Pimento Salad
Pare a chilled cucumber and cut it into julienne pieces (like a match, but shorter). Remove pimentos from a can, rinse in cold water, dry on a cloth and cut one in shreds, the same size and shape as the cucumbers. Use 3^ as much pimento as cucumber. Dress each separately with French dressing, adding a little grated or scraped onion. Arrange on lettuce leaves having pimento in the center surrounded by cucumber. Serve with a fish course.
[180] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Fruit and Celery Salad
Cut canned or fresh pineapple in strips; cut 2 apples in the same manner and squeeze over them the juice of half a lemon to keep them from discoloring. Cut heart stalks of celery in the same fashion and have about the same quan- tity of each ingredient. Mix with enough Mayonnaise to hold the ingredients together. Serve on lettuce leaves.
Orange Salad
Remove peel and slice oranges very thin. For each orange allow 1 tablespoon of chopped or sliced walnuts, make a French dressing with lemon juice and pour over the fruit and nuts. Serve on lettuce leaves. This salad is good to serve with game. Very attractive served in cups made from red apples.
Combination Fruit Salad
One slice pineapple, half banana, half orange, 6 straw- berries; use this quantity for each service; cut the pine- apple in cubes, slice oranges very thin, lengthwise; slice bananas and cut strawberries in halves; mix with Mayon- naise that has been made without mustard and adding a little whipped cream, or the beaten white of egg.
Orange Jelly Salad
Dissolve 1 tablespoonful of powdered gelatine in 3^ cupful of cold water, then add 1 cupful of strained hot orange juice and stir until thoroughly dissolved. Have ready J^ cupful of chopped nut meats. Peel 3 oranges, divide into sections and cut each section in half. When the jelly is ready to mold, pour a little into wet molds, add some nut meats and orange sections, then more jelly and so on until the molds are full. When ready to serve, turn onto crisp lettuce leaves and top with a spoonful of Mayon- naise.
Stuffed Beet Salad
Cut the centers from small, tender, cooked beets to make thin, neat looking cups. For each cup, chop fine 2 olives and half a stalk of tender celery (inner stalks), and 3^ of
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [181]
the beet cut into small cubes, mix with French or May- onnaise dressing, seasoned with onion juice, and use to fill the cups. Roll a small floweret of cooked cauliflower in dressing and set above the filling in the cups. Serve on heart leaves of lettuce seasoned with French dressing.
Tomato Jelly Salad
1 cup tomato puree. ^ sliced onion.
1 cup hot water. 2 tablespoons gelatine soaked
1 bouillon cube. in ^ cup cold water.
Bit of bay leaf. 2 tablespoons vinegar.
y^ teaspoon salt.
Simmer first 6 ingredients 15 minutes, remove from fire, add soaked gelatine; strain and chill, then stir until quite thick and add one cup of asparagus tips. Turn into indi- vidual molds and chill. Turn out to serve, garnish with hearts of lettuce and Mayonnaise dressing.
Potato Salad
Boil potatoes without paring; then remove skins and cut in cubes or slices; make a French dressing, adding 1 tablespoon onion juice; pour over potatoes and let stand an hour or more; when ready to serve arrange on lettuce leaves with a teaspoon of thick mayonnaise on top. Sprinkle the Mayonnaise with capers or finely chopped hard cooked eggs.
Watermelon Salad
Have watermelon very cold. Cut in inch cubes or scoop out balls from the melon with a French potato cutter. Arrange on crisp lettuce leaves with a French dressing.
Macaroni Salad
Boil 1 cup of inch length macaroni until tender, drain and let stand in cold water until cool. Drain again. Cut a pimento into thin strips and add to the macaroni, or add sliced stuff^ed olives. Pour over a French dressing well seasoned with onion juice. Serve on lettuce leaves.
[182] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Stuffed Celery
Take cream cheese, moisten with milk or cream or May- onnaise and mix until smooth; season with salt and pap- rika. Stuff the inner white stalks of celery with this mixture.
To be passed with the salad course.
Prune and Cottage Cheese Salad
Remove stones from cooked, cold prunes. Fill with cottage cheese; place on lettuce leaves; serve with thick Mayonnaise dressing.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [183]
Salad Combinations Which May Be Used with Mayonnaise or Cooked Dressing
1. One cup diced apples, 1 cup celery cut in small pieces, ]/^ cup walnuts. Squeeze the juice of }4 lemon over the apples to prevent their turning dark, ^2 cup chopped dates may replace walnuts. Serve on lettuce leaves.
2. Equal quantities sliced pineapple, bananas and canned cherries. Serve on lettuce leaves.
3. Bananas rolled in chopped walnuts and served on lettuce leaves.
4. Equal quantities grapefruit and white grapes. Sprinkle with chopped walnuts and add 2 or 3 marsh- mallows for each service.
5. Two cups cooked salmon or tuna, 1 cup celery cut fine, 6 sour pickles chopped.
6. Stuffed Tomatoes — Peel tomatoes, cut a slice from the stem end of each and remove the centers. Turn upside down to drain and set aside to chill. Prepare a filling of celery cut in small pieces, adding one-half as much chopped walnuts. Mix with dressing. Or stuff tomatoes with cooked peas, string beans, asparagus or fish combined with any of these vegetables, and mixed with salad dressing. Serve on lettuce leaves.
7. Tomatoes and hard cooked eggs served on lettuce leaves.
8. Artichokes with center stuffed with crab, shrimp or chicken salad.
9. Potatoes with seasoning of onions and chopped sour pickles.
10. Asparagus tips, artichoke hearts, lettuce.
11. Combination of cooked vegetables called Mace- doine salad.
12. Shrimp and cucumber salad. — Pare cucumbers and cut in halves lengthwise; remove centers, cut in dice and add to shrimps. Mix with dressing; fill cucumber shells; serve on lettuce leaves.
13. Mix half as much celery, cut very fine, as shrimps:
[184] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
mix with dressing; garnish with capers or olives and serve on lettuce leaves.
14. Two cups cold cooked chicken, cut in cubes; cup celery; cut fine; mix with dressing and garnish with pi- mentos or stuffed olives.
15. Cooked asparagus, rings of green peppers, slices of pimentos; slip several stalks of asparagus through the green pepper rings; place on lettuce leaf and decorate with pimentos.
A Few Combinations Using French Dressing
1. Lettuce, tomatoes and shredded green peppers.
2. Cauliflower, string beans and shredded lettuce; garnish with diced beets.
3. Lettuce, cream cheese (cut in slices) and shredded pimentos.
4. Shredded cabbage with chopped green peppers; garnish with pickles.
5. Brussels sprouts and chopped green peppers.
6. Potatoes, hard cooked eggs, sliced green onion, parsley.
7. Scoop out centers of cold cooked beets to form a cup; sprinkle inside with salt and pepper, fill with a mix- ture of diced cucumbers and shredded green peppers mixed with dressing; or fill with cooked peas and carrots to which dressing has been added. Serve on lettuce leaves.
CHAPTER EIGHT
YEAST MIXTURES
BREAD
ROLLS
COFFEE CAKES
[186] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Yeast Mixtures
Helpful Hints on Bread Making
READ is the most important article of food in the
daily diet. And the many processes employed in
making and baking gives us a great variety of
appetizing breads, that furnish the largest amount
of food value for the least money expended.
The process of making these yeast mixtures is most interesting, and a little careful study and practice will surely reward you for your time and trouble.
The first essential for perfect bread is a good flour; second, careful manipulation and third, proper baking.
The longer the batter is beaten, the less kneading the dough will require. When dough can be lifted in a mass on a spoon, it is ready to knead.
Dough is kneaded to mix the ingredients thoroughly, to make the gluten elastic and to work in the air. It is sufficiently kneaded when it can be left on the board for a minute or more without sticking.
In cool weather the bowl containing the dough may be set in a pan of warm water. To keep the dough from cooling, mix and knead it quickly.
Quick handling prevents the dough from cooling and hastens the process of rising.
Always make small loaves to insure bread being baked through; in large loaves the heat may fail to penetrate to the center of the loaf.
If bread rises much after being put in the oven, the heat is not great enough, but if it begins to brown in less than fifteen minutes, the heat is too great. During the first ten minutes the loaves are in the oven they should merely rise and perhaps begin to show a little brown in spots; in the second period of ten minutes they should become a delicate brown all over the surface and cease to rise; in the third period they should finish browning, and in the fourth they should shrink slightly from the pans. After the first ten minutes the oven heat can be decreased slightly, and as baking continues it may be lessened still more.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [187]
When baking is completed, the loaves will give forth a hollow sound when tapped, and will shrink from the pan.
After baking remove bread at once from the pans and allow to cool in fresh air, uncovered. Do not put away until perfectly cold.
For all rolls, plain or fancy, use the bread formula. If a richer dough is desired, changes may be made in the following manner:
Use milk instead of water for liquid; both shortening and sugar may be increased by one tablespoon or more to each cup of liquid. Also the white of one egg may be added. With these changes it may be found necessary to use a little more flour.
Dark breads are valuable for their mineral salts and coarse texture. They should be included in the diet particularly that of children and elderly persons. They are valued mainly for their laxative qualities.
BREAD AND ROLLS
Note. — ^All measurements are level and flour is sifted once before measuring. One-half pint measuring cup is used.
Bread
1 cup water or milk, scalded. 3^ compressed veast cake dis-
1 tablespoon melted shortening. solved in M cup lukewarm
1 tablespoon sugar. water.
1 teaspoon salt. Between 3 and 4 cups flour.
Method of Preparation: Put shortening, sugar and salt in scalded liquid; let it stand until lukewarm, then add dissolved yeast and flour gradually, beating well until too stiff to stir. Turn on moulding board and knead in remaining flour until mixture is smooth, does not stick to the hands or board, and bubbles may be seen under the surface. Return to well-greased bowl, brush dough over with melted shortening, cover and allow to rise in a warm place to twice its original size, then knead down in a bowl and let rise again. This second kneading, after the dough has risen once, gives a much finer grain to bread and should always be used. When dough has again risen to double its size, it will be ready to shape into loaves or rolls. Place loaves in well-greased pans.
[188] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
having them about half full. Brush both bread and rolls with melted shortening, let them rise again to double their size and bake in a hot oven about forty-five min- utes for medium-sized loaves and from twenty to thirty minutes for rolls, according to size.
This quantity of dough is for one large loaf of bread or pan of rolls. With one-half yeast cake used to each half-pint measuring cup of liquid, bread can be made and completed, if kept in a warm room, in about 5 hours. If a longer period be given to the rising process less yeast will be required. One-quarter yeast cake to each cup of liquid will be sufficient if dough is set over night. In cither case the same method of preparation is used.
If milk is used, scalding, while not essential, is an absolute test of its freshness. If scalded, cool to luke- warm, otherwise it will kill the yeast plant.
For Prune or Raisin Bread
Follow bread foundation recipe, adding 1 more table- spoon of sugar. When dough has risen once, add 1 cup of seedless raisins or pitted chopped prunes for each cup of liquid used and allow to double in size again, when the dough will be ready for loaves. Put in well-greased pans, let double in size, and bake in a hot oven 45 min- utes for a medium sized loaf.
Another method of adding fruit: When shaping into loaves roll out dough for each loaf, cover with fruit and roll up like jelly roll. Place in greased pans and proceed as directed. After fruit has been added, the dough will take longer to rise than plain bread dough.
Parker House Rolls
Use bread foundation recipe. After dough has risen to double in size the second time, roll into a sheet about 1 inch thick. Cut with biscuit cutter, then with the handle of a knife dipped in flour press lightly through the center of each roll, brush with melted shortening, fold over and place close together in a well-greased pan. Set in a warm place until light, then bake in a hot oven. When baked, brush over with melted shortening or the
MRS. DE GRAFTS COOK BOOK [189]
unbeaten white of egg. The white of egg gives a high gloss.
Tea Rolls
Use bread foundation recipe. When dough is light, knead slightly and cut in pieces about the size of a wal- nut. Brush with melted shortening; place close together in a well-greased pan.
One additional tablespoon of sugar for each cup of liquid improves these rolls.
Clover Leaf Rolls
Use bread foundation recipe. When dough is light, shape into balls about the size of a large marble, place in groups of three in well-greased muffin pans. Brush with melted shortening, allow to become very light and bake in a hot oven. When baked, brush with unbeaten white of egg.
Lady Finger Rolls
Use bread foundation recipe. When light, roll dough into small balls. Let rise again, then shape balls into long rolls, pointed at the ends, thick in the center. Place on a greased pan, brush with melted shortening, let rise again, and bake in a hot oven. When baked brush with unbeaten white of egg.
Dinner Rolls
Use bread foundation recipe. When light, shape into small round rolls, and place in well-greased muffin pans. Brush with melted shortening, allow to become very light, and bake in a hot oven.
Entire Wheat Bread or Rolls
1 cup water or milk, scalded. Yt compressed yeast cake dis- 1 tablespoon melted shortening. solved in M cup lukewarm
1 tablespoon sugar. water.
1 teaspoon salt. About 3 cups of entire wheat
flour.
Add shortening, sugar and salt to scalded liquid; when lukewarm add dissolved yeast and entire wheat flour gradually, beating until stiff. Knead in flour until mix-
[190] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
ture is smooth, does not stick to the hands or board. Place in greased bowl, brush with melted fat. Allow to rise in a warm place until double in size. Shape into loaves or rolls. Place in greased pans, brush with melted fat, let rise again and bake in a hot oven for about forty- five minutes for loaves or twenty to thirty minutes for rolls.
Graham Bread or Rolls
1 cup water or milk, scalded. 3^ compressed yeast cake dis-
1 tablespoon melted shortening. solved in M cup lukewarm
1 tablespoon brown sugar or water.
molasses. VA cups graham flour and
1 teaspoon salt. enough white flour to knead.
Add shortening, sugar and salt to scalded liquid. When lukewarm, add dissolved yeast, graham flour and enough white flour to knead. Turn on molding board and knead mixture until smooth and does not stick to the hands or board. Place in well-greased bowl, brush dough with melted fat; set to rise in a warm place till double in size. Shape into loaves or rolls. Place in well- greased pans. Brush with melted fat, let rise again and bake in a hot oven 45 minutes for loaves and 20 to 30 minutes for rolls.
Bran Bread
1 cup boiling water. 3^ yeast cake dissolved in M
1 teaspoon salt. cup of lukewarm water.
1 tablespoon molasses or brown 1 cupful Bran.
sugar. Enough entire wheat flour to
1 tablespoon melted shortening. knead.
Add salt, shortening and molasses to hot water; cool to lukewarm then add dissolved yeast. Add bran and enough flour to make a stiff batter so that the mixture may be kneaded until elastic. Place in a greased bowl, brush over top with melted fat and let rise until double in size. Shape into loaves, let rise again and bake in a moderately hot oven.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [191]
Rye Bread
1 cup hot water. 3^ yeast cake dissolved in 34
1 tablespoon melted shortening. cup lukewarm water.
2 tablespoons brown sugar. IJ^ cups rye flour. Enough 1 teaspoon salt. white flour to knead.
To lukewarm water, add shortening, salt and sugar; when lukewarm add dissolved yeast cake and rye flour; beat well, then add enough flour to knead; when kneaded thoroughly place in well-greased bowl, let rise again, then shape into loaves. Set in a warm place until light, bake in a hot oven. Brush over with melted shortening before and after baking.
This will make one large loaf of bread or pan of rolls.
[192] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Yeast Cojfee Cakes
Note. — All measurements are level and flour is sifted once before measuring. One-half pint measuring cup is used.
Coffee Cake
First Part, Sponge : Second Part, Dough :
1 cup scalded milk. M cup melted butter.
1 compressed yeast cake, dis- M cup sugar.
solved in ]i cup lukewarm 1 egg, well beaten.
water. 1 teaspoon almond flavoring.
13^ cups flour. 3^ teaspoon salt.
3 (about) cups flour.
Method of Preparation: Cool milk to lukewarm, then add dissolved yeast cake and 1>^ cups flour. Beat until smooth and put in warm place until light. This will take about one hour. Sponge is light when full of bubbles. Then add other ingredients, turn on board and knead until smooth and elastic and does not stick to hands or board. Place in well-greased bowl, brushing over top of dough with melted shortening. Allow to rise to 2>^ times its original size. This will take 2 hours or more. Then the dough is ready for the various coffee cakes.
If a richer dough is desired, double the quantity of shortening and eggs, using only ^ cup of milk.
Plain Coffee Cake
Use coffee cake foundation recipe. When light, roll out to about 2 inches thick, place in well-greased shallow pan, and brush over top with yolk of egg diluted with 2 tablespoons of milk and then sprinkle top with following mixture:
14 cup of soft bread crumbs. 2 tablespoons sugar.
Cinnamon. 2 tablespoons melted butter.
Let coffee cake stand until light and bake in a mod- erate oven.
Tea Ring
Use coffee cake foundation recipe. When light, roll out to about ]/2 inch thickness. Brush over with melted
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [193]
shortening, sprinkle with sugar, cinnamon and seedless raisins, or raisins and chopped walnuts. Roll up like a jelly roll, join the ends, forming a ring, place on well- greased pan, and with scissors cut % through the ring of dough in pieces about 2 inches apart. After cutting, turn each piece over, brush over with yolk of egg diluted with two tablespoons of milk. Let rise again and bake in a medium oven about 25 minutes. When baked, brush over top with unbeaten white of egg. This gives a high gloss. Have oven at moderate heat.
Wreath Cake
Use coffee cake foundation recipe. When dough is light roll to ]/2 inch thickness and spread with the follow- ing mixture:
1 cup chopped seeded raisins. 1 sodacracker rolled into
1 lemon (juice and grated crumbs,
rind). 1 beaten egg.
Roll up dough as for a jelly roll and join the ends firmly together. Place in a well-greased pan with a center tube, brush over the top with the yolk of an egg diluted with an equal quantity of milk. Let rise until double in size and bake in a moderate oven about 30 minutes. Glaze with 1 egg yolk beaten with 2 tablespoons milk.
Cinnamon Rolls
Use coffee cake foundation recipe. When light, roll dough into a sheet yi inch thick. Brush over with melted butter, sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon, and, if de- sired, seedless raisins. Roll up as for a jelly roll, and with a sharp knife cut in slices about 1>^ inch thick. Place these slices upright in a well-greased pan and stand in a warm place to rise. Allow to become very light before baking. These can be varied by sprinkling brown sugar in the pan after greasing and placing the slices on sugar. When baked, turn upside down, the brown sugar form- ing a candied top. Care should be taken not to use too hot an oven for these rolls.
They can also be baked in muffin pans and treated in the same way.
[194] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Plain Sweet Rolls
Use cofFee cake foundation recipe. When light, form into any desired shape, brush over with yolk of egg diluted with 2 tablespoons of milk. Allow to become light and bake. If perfect rolls are desired, do not put close together in pan. As soon as baked, brush over with egg yolk beaten with 2 tablespoons of milk to glaze. This should be done as soon as rolls are removed from the oven so the mixture will dry at once from heat of rolls.
Rusks
Use cofFee cake foundation recipe. When light cut off pieces of dough the size of a walnut and place on a greased cookie pan about 3 inches apart. Brush over with the yolk of an egg to which two tablespoons of milk have been added. When light, bake in a medium hot oven, and, when baked, glaze with confectioners' icing, which is made by taking 1 tablespoon of hot water and adding enough powdered sugar to thicken; add a few drops of vanilla.
Brioche
Use cofFee cake foundation recipe. When very light roll in a thin sheet, spread very lightly with softened butter, and fold over in three layers, pressing lightly with the rolling pin. Cut in strips about 1 inch wide and 4 inches long. Take these strips, one end in each hand, and twist in opposite directions. Then bring the ends together in a circle, press together, and place in a well- greased pan about 3 inches apart. Brush over with the yolk of egg and milk. Let rise and bake a delicate brown. When baked, brush with confectioners' sugar icing.
Hot Cross Buns
Use cofFee cake foundation recipe, adding ^ cup of raisins. When light, form into balls, set on a greased pan some distance apart, smooth side up; brush with melted shortening and let rise. Before putting in a hot oven, cut a cross on top of each bun. When baked, brush rolls over with yolk^of egg diluted with 2 tablespoons of milk.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [195]
Raised Doughnuts
Use coffee cake foundation recipe. When light, roll to yi inch thickness, cut with doughnut cutter, let stand until light and fry in deep fat. Drain, cool and sprinkle with powdered sugar.
[196] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Toast
Cut bread in }i inch slices. Place over hot coals, on a heated electric toaster or in a heated boiler. Do not place too near the heat. Toast until a golden brown on each side. If desired very crisp do not butter before serving. If liked somewhat soft, butter and set in the oven a few minutes.
Milk Toast
Milk toast seems a simple dish, and is if the bread is treated to just the right amount of crispness. Cut the bread about ^2 inch thick; it should be toasted on each side until crisp, but not brittle. Each slice should be dipped, for only an instant, in hot salted water. This must be done quickly for the toast should not be soggy.
Place slices on a hot platter and pour a thin white sauce over them. The sauce should be prepared before the toast is made and may be kept hot in a double boiler. Allow one cup of sauce to four slices of toast. Egg toast is made by adding one chopped, hard cooked egg to each cup of white sauce. Hot milk may be poured over crisp slices of buttered toast and served at once.
French Toast
Beat 2 eggs until light and creamy; add ^2 teaspoon salt, a pinch of nutmeg and }4 cup of milk; mix well; cut bread in ^ inch slices, then cut in triangles; dip in the egg and milk mixture and then place in a well greased hot frying pan and cook on each side until a golden brown. Serve hot with generous teaspoons of jam or jelly in the center of each slice and sprinkle with powdered sugar.
Croutons
Cut dry bread into }i inch slices; then cut into cubes. Place in a very moderate oven to dry and become brown. Stir frequently. It will take about 20 minutes to dry the croutons.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [197
Breads Without Yeast
Note.— All measurements are level and flour is sifted once before measuring. One-half pint measuring cup is used.
Superior Sandwich Bread
1}4 cups flour. 1 teaspoon salt.
2 cups graham flour. 3^ cup chopped walnuts.
^2 cup corn meal. 1 cup seedless raisins.
H cup brown sugar. ^ cup molasses.
2 teaspoons baking powder. 2 cups sour milk or buttermilk.
1 teaspoon soda.
Mix and sift dry ingredients, but do not discard bran from graham flour which will not go through the sieve. Add remainder of materials in order named. Put into 2 small, well-greased bread pans, allow to stand 15 min- utes, then bake about 40 minutes in a moderate oven.
This makes an excellent sandwich bread and keeps well.
Nut Bread
2 cups flour. 1 cup milk. }4 teaspoon salt. M cup sugar. 4 teaspoons baking powder. 1 egg.
3^ cup chopped walnuts. 1 tablespoon melted shortening.
Sift dry ingredients, except sugar; beat egg, add sugar gradually, then milk. Combine with dry ingredients and add nuts. Put in a well-greased bread pan and allow to stand 20 minutes before baking. Bake about 35 minutes in a moderately hot oven.
Cool before cutting.
Prune Bread
1 cup yellow com meal. }4 cup New Orleans molasses.
2 cups graham flour. 1 cup pitted, chopped, tmcooked
1 teaspoon salt. prunes. 34 teaspoon soda. 1 cup milk.
2 teaspoons baking powder. 1 tablespoon melted shortening. 2 tablespoons brown sugar.
Mix dry ingredients; add pruneS; molasses and milk. Pour into 2 well-greased covered molds. Steam about 1 hour, keeping water boiling constantly.
[198] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Boston Brown Bread
1 cup graham flour. 1 teaspoon soda.
1 cup corn meal. % cup molasses.
1 cup rye flour or meal. 2 cups of sour milk or IH cups
1 teaspoon salt. of sweet milk.
1 teaspoon baking powder.
Sift dry ingredients, add molasses and milk. Put in 2 well-greased molds with tight covers and steam 1}4 hours, keeping water constantly at boiling point.
1 cup of seedless raisins may be added.
Gingerbread
2 cups flour. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 1 teaspoon soda. 1 cup molasses.
1 teaspoon cinnamon. }/^ cup milk (sweet or sour).
3 teaspoons ginger. 1 egg.
1 teaspoon salt. 3^ cup shortening.
Mix and sift dry ingredients. Put molasses and short- ening into a sauce pan and heat slowly until shortening is melted and mixed with molasses. Beat egg, add milk, then molasses mixture and dry ingredients. Bake in well- greased shallow pan or muffin tins in a moderate oven 25 minutes.
Gingerbread is greatly improved by adding the grated rind of an orange or 2 tablespoons of orange marmalade to the batter before baking. One-third cup chopped walnuts or raisins may be added also.
CHAPTER NINE
BREAKFAST BREADS WAFFLES GRIDDLE CAKES BISCUITS MUFFINS
[200] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
JVajfles and Griddle Cakes
AFFLES, the most popular of all breakfast breads, are not found on the menu of the average house- wife due perhaps, to the general impression that they are difficult to make and bake and should be attempted only by professional cooks. So the waffle iron is not usually included in the general kitchen equip- ment, and the housewife does not have an opportunity to test out her ability to make satisfactory waffles. A waffle iron is not an expensive piece of equipment and should be included among the kitchen necessities. . The pleasure the household will derive from the occasional Sunday breakfast of hot, crisp waffles and maple syrup will amply repay for both the investment and the effort to produce this tempting breakfast bread.
The waffle irons are made of iron or aluminum and come in two styles, the low iron to be used on a coal or wood range and the high iron for use over a gas flame. Then there is the electric waffle iron, made of aluminum to be used right on the table, so that each person served is sure to receive the waffle hot from the iron.
The iron waffle iron, being less expensive, is the one most commonly used, and when new needs seasoning be- fore it can be used satisfactorily, otherwise the waffles will stick to the iron. Take the upper parts of the new waffle iron and boil for at least half an hour in boiling water and washing soda or washing powder.
Then scrub well with a stiff brush, rinse in clean hot water and dry over the fire. Place in the lower portion, which has been washed well but not boiled. Grease the upper part lightly on both sides with beef suet or an un- salted fat and let remain over a low fire for an hour or more, turning frequently. The iron is then ready to use. The aluminum irons do not require this treatment; they are ready for use at once and do not need greasing.
After using, the upper part of the waffle iron may be rubbed clean with soft paper. This is a much better method than using soap and water after the iron has been
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [201]
seasoned. The lower part may be washed, but should be well dried before setting away to prevent rusting.
The batter for both waffles and griddle cakes is of about the same consistency. Many persons prefer a somewhat substantial griddle cake although the very thin ones are considered the best by epicures. The griddle cake batter does not require shortening.
Waffles require the thinnest of batters. If it is not thin the waffles will not be crisp. The most efficient way of putting a batter together is to sift all of the dry in- gredients, then combine with the liquids, and beat well with an egg beater. For a very light batter the eggs should be beaten separately, the yolks mixed with the milk, then added gradually to the dry materials, the melted shortening is then beaten into the mixture, and the stiffly beaten egg whites folded in last.
Beating the whole egg until light, then adding the milk and combining with the dry ingredients, and beating until smooth with the egg beater is a much easier method and will prove just as satisfactory, although perhaps not quite so airy as the first method. A standard recipe can be used in making any quantity of batter desired. One egg, 1 cup of milk, 1 cup of flour, 2 level teaspoons of baking powder, >^ teaspoon of salt and 1 tablespoon of melted shortening. This quantity of batter will make 3 waffles. Now with these proportions in mind the house- keeper need not refer to a recipe but can make any num- ber of waffles desired. If sour milk is used take only one teaspoon of baking powder and add J^ teaspoon of bak- ing soda to neutralize the acidity of the sour milk. If the milk is quite thick it may be necessary to use a little more than one cup in order to get the batter thin enough.
When eggs are scarce or high in price 1 egg only can be used for 2 cupfuls of milk, flour, etc.; in that case }/^ cupful more milk should be used to make the batter of the right consistency. Cooked rice or other left-over cereal may be added to this batter to give variety. In that case use y^ cupful of the cooked cereal, and ^ cupful of flour, in- stead of the full cup of flour given in the foundation formula.
[202] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Any of the self-rising pancake flours may be used for waffles by omitting the baking powder and following the waffle recipe.
The waffle iron should be well heated and just before adding the batter grease the iron on the side nearest the flame; grease thoroughly, but lightly; turn the iron so that the greased portion is on top. This will grease the ungreased side, which is usually enough after the iron has been used several times. Place about 5 tablespoons of batter in the center of the iron. This will be sufficient to fill it. Lower the upper half of the iron and turn at once. Do not have the gas too high or the waffles will bake too quickly and not be thoroughly cooked and crisp. If the waffle iron has been properly heated the waffles will be evenly browned on both sides.
Waffles should be served as soon as baked to be at their best. If, however, it is necessary to keep them for a short time, place on the wire rack in a warm oven, keeping each waffle separate. If placed on a plate and allowed to stand, the waffles will become heavy and soggy on the under- side. Serve only 1 waffle at a time to each person. If placed one on top of another they will not be crisp. Served with either maple syrup, jam or jelly, what could make a more palatable breakfast than hot, crisp waffles?
Note. — All measurements are level and flour is sifted once before measuring. One-half pint measuring cup is used.
Griddle Cakes
1 cup flour. 1 egg.
2 teaspoons baking powder. % cup milk. 3^ teaspoon salt.
Method of Preparation: The most simple and efficient way to put a batter together is to mix and sift the dry ingredients first, then mix the liquid and the well-beaten yolks of eggs and combine the mixtures. If using shortening, add it melted, and finally fold in the stiffly beaten whites of eggs.
Eggs should always be beaten separately when light- ness is desired, but if time is limited the result will be satisfactory if eggs are beaten together.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [203]
For griddle cakes, the griddle should be well heated, and, if not soapstone or aluminum, should be greased. Drop batter by spoonfuls, and when puffed and full of bubbles and cooked on the edges, turn and brown on the other side. Never turn griddle cakes but once. Other- wise they will be heavy.
Sour Milk Griddle Cakes
2 cups flour. 1 egg.
^ teaspoon salt. 2 cups sour milk.
1 teaspoon soda.
Sift dry ingredients. Beat egg, add milk and combine mixtures.
Cereal Pancakes
Cooked cereal of any kind may be added to a pancake batter by omitting an equal quantity of flour and using not more than 1 cupful of cereal to each cupful of flour.
Bread Griddle Cakes
Use the regular recipe for griddle cakes, substituting stale bread crumbs either wholly or in part for the flour. More liquid will be necessary, the quantity depending upon the staleness of the crumbs.
Rice Griddle Cakes
1 cup flour. 1 egg, beaten.
3^ teaspoon salt. IM cups milk.
1 tablespoon sugar. 1 cup cooked rice. 4 teaspoons baking powder.
Sift first 4 ingredients; beat egg, add milk, then rice, and add gradually dry ingredients, beating to a smooth batter. Bake at once on a hot griddle.
Com Meal Griddle Cakes
1 cup com meal. 4 teaspoons baking powder.
1 cup boiling water. 1 teaspoon salt.
1 cup flour. 2 tablespoons sugar.
2 cups milk. 2 eggs.
Pour boiling water over the com meal and let stand until cool. Sift dry ingredients. Beat eggs, add milk,
[204] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
dry ingredients and corn meal. If using sour milk, omit baking powder and add 1 teaspoon soda.
Left-over corn meal cereal may be used to make these cakes.
French Pancake
1 cup flour. i/g teaspoon salt.
2 teaspoons baking powder. 1 cup milk.
1 teaspoon sugar. 2 eggs.
Sift dry ingredients. Beat egg, add milk and combine mixtures. Bake on a hot griddle. Spread with softened butter and jelly and roll up like a jelly roll. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve.
Sweet Milk Waffles
2 eggs, well beaten. 1 teaspoon salt.
2 cups milk. 2 tablespoons melted shorten-
2 cups flour. ing.
4 teaspoons baking powder.
Sift dry ingredients; beat eggs until light, add milk, then combine mixtures beating well with the egg beater. Add melted shortening, beat again, then bake at once on a well-heated waffle iron.
Sour Milk Waffles
2 eggs, well beaten. Y^ teaspoon baking soda.
2 cups sour or buttermilk. 1 teaspoon salt.
2 cups flour. 2 tablespoons melted shorten- 2 teaspoons baking powder. ing.
Sift soda with dry ingredients and mix as directed for sweet milk waffles. If batter seems too thick more milk may be added until of right consistency.
Commeal Waffles
2 eggs. 2 tablespoons melted shorten-
2 cups milk. ing.
1 cup flour. 1 cup commeal.
4 teaspoons baking powder. 1 cup boiling water.
1 teaspoon salt.
Pour boiling water over cornmeal and let stand until cool. This is done to partially cook the cornmeal in order
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [205]
to make it thoroughly digestible. Sift remaining dry in- gredients; beat eggs, add milk, then the commeal, beat- ing well; add remaining ingredients, beat until smooth and bake on a hot waffle iron.
Entire Wheat Waffles
2 eggs. 4 level teaspoons baking pow-
2 cups milk. der.
13^ cups entire wheat flour. 1 teaspoon salt.
J^ cup wliite flour. 2 tablespoons melted shorten-
ing.
Sift dry ingredients; beat eggs, add milk, combine mix- tures, beat until smooth, add shortening, beat again and bake on a well-heated waffle iron.
Rice or Cereal Waffles
2 eggs. 4 teaspoons baking powder.
2 cups milk. 1 teaspoon salt.
y2 cup cooked rice or cereal. 2 tablespoons melted shorten- V/2 cups flour. ing.
Beat eggs well, add milk and cereal, sift dry ingredients and combine mixtures; add shortening, beat well and bake on a well-heated waffle iron.
[206] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Biscuit Dough and Variations of Biscuit T>ough
Just why so many housewives fail to make a good bis- cuit seems strange, for this dough is one of the easiest mixtures to make. Perhaps failure is due to inaccurate measurements and too slow an oven. This type of dough requires a hot oven. Too often the amount of ingredients are a matter of guess work rather than of measurement, and, unless one is a skilled cook, the results of guesswork are usually indifferent.
When sweet milk is used always remember that 2 level teaspoonfuls of baking powder are used to each cup of sifted flour. This never changes, no matter how many cups of flour you are using.
There should be no taste of baking powder in the fin- ished product. If there is, then your measurements have not been level, or you are using a very poor quality of baking powder.
When using sour or buttermilk, then soda will be your leavening agent. In that case remember that }4 a tea- spoon of soda is used to each cup of sour milk. Or you can use }i teaspoon of soda, to neutralize the acidity of 1 cup of sour milk and 1 teaspoon of baking powder to each cup of flour.
Do not dissolve soda in the sour milk, as that process releases the gases too soon and the dough will be less light. Always sift the soda with the flour for biscuit doughs. Sour milk can be substituted for sweet milk in any recipe if these rules are followed.
Perhaps you have never stopped to consider the pos- sibilities of the ordinary biscuit dough. This mixture is easily adaptable to variety.
It is quickly mixed and baked and has the advantage of being one of the most inexpensive mixtures to make. Many very palatable desserts can be prepared from this dough, besides several varieties of bread.
When the berry season begins come visions of old- fashioned shortcake, the kind made from biscuit dough.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [207]
covered generously with crushed strawberries. These old-fashioned shortcakes may be made of any variety of fruits, fresh or cooked, but the strawberry is queen of them all.
However, you must bear in mind that biscuit mixtures, to be at their best, should be served while fresh, generally direct from the oven. A heavy biscuit is usually due to inaccurate measurements and too slow an oven. This class of dough takes a hot oven.
In the accompanying recipes the term shortening means fat, any kind you may prefer. Half butter and half lard always give satisfactory results, but as butter is very ex- pensive, and many people do not like lard, most any of the substitutes for either one will be found satisfactory.
Desserts made of biscuit doughs will be found under hot desserts.
Note. — ^All measurements are level and flour is sifted once before measuring. One-half pint f&easuring cup is used.
Baking Powder Biscuits
2 cups flour. 4 tablespoons shortening.
1 teaspoon salt. % cup milk or equal parts of 4 teaspoons baking powder. milk and water.
Mix and sift dry ingredients; work in shortening with knife or finger tips. Gradually add the liquid, mixing it with a knife to a soft dough. Toss on a floured board, pat or roll lightly to J^ inch in thickness, cut with biscuit cutter, place in pan, brush over the top with either melted shortening or milk. Bake in a hot oven 12 to 15 minutes.
Emergency Biscuits
2 cups flour. 2 tablespoons shortening. 4 teaspoons baking powder. 1 cup milk.
1 tablespoon salt.
Mix and sift dry ingredients; work in shortening with knife or finger tips; gradually add liquid, mixing with a knife. Drop in greased muffin pans or baking pan. Bake in a hot oven. When cooked, brush over the surface with a mixture of sugar and water, 2 teaspoons of sugar to 1 tablespoon of water.
[208] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Dinner or Luncheon Biscuits
2 cups flour. 3 tablespoons shortening.
1 teaspoon salt. 1 egg, beaten, then put in cup 4 teaspoons baking powder, and cup filled three-quar-
2 teaspoons sugar. ters full of milk.
Sift all dry ingredients; rub in a shortening until mix- ture is like coarse meal; add egg and milk mixture grad- ually, mixing with a knife. Turn on to a slightly floured board, pat and roll into % inch in thickness. Cut with a biscuit cutter, brush over with melted butter, fold over, place in pan and bake about 20 minutes in a hot oven.
Savory Biscuits
Prepare baking powder biscuit dough; after cutting spread J^ of each roll with deviled ham, fold, brush over top with melted shortening and bake in a hot oven.
Cheese Biscuits
Make the baking powder biscuit foundation recipe. Roll the dough thin; sprinkle with grated cheese and paprika. Fold dough over to enclose cheese, roll lightly as thin as possible, then cut in strips an inch wide and 4 inches long. Brush over with melted shortening and bake until a golden brown. Serve with a salad course.
Entire Wheat Biscuits
2 cups entire wheat flour. 2 tablespoons shortening.
J^ teaspoon salt. ^ (about) cup of milk.
4 teaspoons baking powder.
Sift dry ingredients, rub or chop in the shortening. Add milk, gradually mixing to a smooth dough with a knife. Turn on a slightly floured board, roll to about 3^ inch in thickness and cut with a biscuit cutter. Place in a baking pan, brush over the top with milk or melted short- ening and bake in a hot oven about 12 minutes.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [209]
Graham Biscuits
1 cup graham flour. 1 tablespoon sugar.
1 cup flour. 2 tablespoons shortening.
4 teaspoons baking powder. % to 1 cup of milk. ]/2 teaspoon salt.
Sift all dry ingredients but do not discard bran flakes. Rub or chop in the shortening. Add milk gradually mix- ing to a smooth dough. Turn on a slightly floured board and roll about 3^ inch thick. Cut with a biscuit cutter, place in a baking pan, brush over tops with milk, melted shortening and bake in a hot oven about 12 minutes.
Com Meal Biscuits
1 cup flour. 1 tablespoon sugar.
1 cup com meal. 2 tablespoons shortening.
4 teaspoons baking powder. % (about) cup of milk. ^ teaspoon salt.
Sift all dry ingredients. Rub or chop in shortening. Add milk gradually. Turn in a slightly floured board, and roll about 34 inch thick. Cut with a biscuit cutter, brush over with melted shortening and fold over like Parker House rolls. Bake in a hot oven about IS minutes.
Surprise Biscuits
Make the baking powder biscuit dough. Roll to J^ inch thick and cut into 3 inch squares. Place a frankfurter sausage in the center of each biscuit then fold over and press the edges firmly together. Place on a baking pan, brush over the top with melted shortening and bake about 20 minutes in a hot oven. An excellent luncheon dish.
New England Butter Buns
Make the baking powder biscuit dough. Roll about 34 inch thick and cut with a biscuit cutter. Heat a pancake griddle to a moderate heat, rub lightly with fat and place the biscuits on top. When brown on one side turn over to finish cooking.
Maple Nut Biscuits
Follow biscuit recipe. Roll dough to % inch in thick- ness; brush over with melted shortening, sprinkle with
[210] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
finely shaved maple sugar (brown sugar may be substi- tuted); add ]/2 cup of finely chopped walnuts; roll up as for a jelly roll, and cut in yi inch pieces; place upright on a greased pan, and bake in a medium hot oven about 20 minutes.
Scones
Follow baking powder biscuit recipe making these changes: add 1 well-beaten egg and extra yolk, reserving one white of egg. Use enough milk to make the consis- tency of biscuit dough. Roll yi inch thick, brush over with the unbeaten egg white, sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon and bake in a hot oven about 15 minutes. These may be split open and served with jelly or jam.
Cinnamon Rolls
Use baking powder biscuit recipe. Roll to % inch thick- ness, brush over with melted shortening, sprinkle with 2 tablespoons sugar (brown, granulated or maple), yi cup seedless raisins, 3^ teaspoon cinnamon. Roll like a jelly- roll, cut off pieces % inch in thickness. Place on well- greased pan and bake in hot oven 15 minutes.
Drop Dumplings
Follow baking powder biscuit recipe, making these changes: Use 2 teaspoons of shortening and 1 cup of milk. The dough should be spongy and full of holes. Drop on boiling stew, cover tightly and steam 15 minutes. The success of a light dumpling depends upon constantly boil- ing liquid and not removing cover during cooking. Steamed dumplings are made from biscuit foundation, using only 2 teaspoons of shortening. Cut as for biscuits, place on a greased pan and steam in a steamer over hot water 15 minutes. Dumplings are less apt to be soggy, if cooked in this way.
Plain Meat Pie Crust
Use J^ baking powder biscuit recipe. Roll out to J/^ inch thickness and place on top of baking dish containing meat. Bake in a hot oven. A richer crust can be made by doubling the amount of shortening.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [211]
Popovers
1 cup milk. 2 eggs.
1 cup flour. 1 teaspoon melted butter. 3^ teaspoon salt.
Add flour and salt to milk and beat well with an egg beater. Then add 1 unbeaten egg at a time, beating thor- oughly. Add melted shortening. Have iron muffin pans or custard cups very hot, grease well, pour in popover batter and bake in a medium hot oven about 40 minutes. Care should be taken not to take from the oven too soon or the popovers will fall.
This amount makes 8 large popovers.
Standard Muffin Recipe
2 cups flour. 1 well-beaten egg. 4 teaspoons baking powder. 1 cup milk.
1 teaspoon salt. 2 tablespoons melted shorten-
2 tablespoons sugar. ing.
Sift dry ingredients; beat egg well, add milk and dry materials, gradually beating to a smooth batter, and add- ing melted shortening last. Bake in heated, well-greased muffin pans in a hot oven.
Graham, Entire Wheat or Rye Muffins
Use foundation recipe, allowing 1 cup of flour to 1 cup of any of the above mentioned products, substituting ^ cup of brown sugar or New Orleans molasses for white sugar. Bake in a moderate oven.
Berkshire Muffins
}/2 cup com meal. 3^ cup cooked rice.
3^ cup flour. 1 well-beaten egg.
}/2 teaspoon salt. % cup scalded milk.
2 teaspoons baking powder. 1 tablespoon melted shorten-
2 tablespoons sugar. ing.
Pour scalded milk on corn meal and let stand 5 min- utes; add rice, then well-beaten egg and remaining dry ingredients, sifted. Add melted shortening and bake in well-greased muffin pans in a quick oven.
[212] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Nut Muffins
Use standard muffin foundation recipe, adding yi cup finely chopped walnuts.
Sally Lunn
2 cups flour. 1 cup milk.
4 teaspoons baking powder. 2 well-beaten eggs.
Yi teaspoon salt. 2 tablespoons melted shorten-
\i cup sugar. ing.
Mix and sift dry ingredients; beat eggs, add milk, then dry materials gradually, beating to a smooth batter, adding melted shortening last. Pour into a greased shal- low pan and bake in a hot oven. Cut in squares to serve.
Fruit Muffins
Add 1 cup of chopped uncooked prunes, seeded raisins, currants or huckleberries to the standard muffin recipe.
Bran Muffins
1 cup bran. 1 well-beaten egg.
^ cup flour. Yi cup milk (sweet or sour).
y^ teaspoon salt. 3 tablespoons molasses.
Yi teaspoon soda. 1 tablespoon melted shortening
1 teaspoon baking powder.
Mix and sift flour, salt, soda and baking powder, then add the bran. Beat egg well, add milk and molasses, com- bine mixtures, beat well, add shortening. Drop in hot. well-greased muffin pans and bake in a medium oven 20 to 30 minutes. One-half cup seedless raisins may be added.
These muffins are best when allowed to cool, split open toast, butter, put together and serve at once.
Southern Com Bread or Muffins
2 cups corn meal. 2 tablespoons melted shorten- 2 cups sour or buttermilk. ing.
2 teaspoons salt. 2 eggs.
2 tablespoons sugar. 1 teaspoon soda dissolved in 1
tablespoon cold water.
Put milk, corn meal, salt, sugar and shortening in a double boiler and let steam 10 minutes, but no longer.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [213]
Remove from fire, turn into mixing bowl, separate eggs and beat well, adding yolks to corn meal mixture, then folding in well-beaten white of eggs carefully. Add dis- solved soda last, still folding, and bake either as muffins or in shallow pan, well-greased, using a hot oven.
If iron muffin pans are used, they should be heated be- fore greasing. Heavy muffin pans will always produce a better muffin than tin.
Com Meal and Rice Bread or Muffins
1 cup cooked rice. 1 well-beaten egg.
1 cup corn meal. 1 cup milk.
4 teaspoons baking powder. 2 tablespoons melted shorten-
1 teaspoon salt. ing.
M cup sugar.
Sift dry ingredients; add rice to milk, beaten egg, dry ingredients and melted shortening. Bake in well-greased shallow pan or heated and greased muffin pans in a hot oven about 20 minutes.
Cooked hominy may be used instead of the rice.
Golden Com Bread or Muffins
1 cup com meal. 1 egg.
1 cup flour. 1 cup milk.
4 teaspoons baking powder. 2 tablespoons melted shorten-
}4 cup sugar. ing.
1 teaspoon salt.
Sift all dry ingredients. Beat egg well, add milk, dry ingredients and melted shortening. Bake in a well- greased shallow pan in a hot oven or in heated, well- greased muffin pans.
Spoon Bread
2 cups milk. 1 teaspoon salt.
1 cup corn meal. 2 teaspoons baking powder.
3 eggs. 1 tablespoon sugar.
Heat milk, add corn meal cook until thick. Take from stove, add salt, sugar, egg yolks well beaten. Mix thor- oughly, fold in white of eggs, beaten stiff. Bake in well- greased baking dish about 40 minutes in a medium oven. Serve with spoon from dish.
[214] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Rice Muffins
1 cup flour. 1 egg, beaten.
}/2 teaspoon salt. 1 cup milk.
3^ cup sugar. 1 cup cooked rice.
4 teaspoons baking powder. 1 tablespoon melted shortening.
Sift first four ingredients; add milk to beaten egg, then rice, dry ingredients and melted shortening. Beat until smooth and bake in well-greased heated muffin pans in a hot oven about 25 minutes.
Rolled Oat Muffins
1 cup rolled oats, cooked. 1 well-beaten egg.
1 cup flour. 1 cup of milk.
3^ teaspoon salt. 1 tablespoon melted shorten*
2 tablespoons sugar. ing.
5 teaspoons baking powder.
Sift flour, salt, sugar and baking powder; add cooked rolled oats to milk, adding beaten egg; then gradually beat in the sifted ingredients, adding shortening last. Bake in well-greased heated muffin pans in a hot oven about 20 minutes. Any left-over cooked cereal may be utilized in this manner.
CHAPTER TEN
PASTRY PIES
216] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Pastry and Pies
,iS
IONTRARY to the general opinion, pastry is not hard to make. In fact, once the fundamental principles are understood, pastry is much easier and more 'quickly made than cake. And if pastry is not of the best, crisp and flaky, then it should be dropped from the list of desserts, because tough, soggy pie crust is neither appetizing nor wholesome.
Pie is not an economical dish and poor pies are a waste of good material, for they should not be eaten. When making pastry, keep these rules in mind. Fat makes a pie crust crisp, therefore, to economize on shortening will produce poor pastry. The amount of air which is incor- porated in the dough makes the crust flaky, so the dough requires careful handling. Water makes pastry tough, and only enough should be used to hold the dough together. Pastry flour is recommended because it absorbs less mois- ture than a strong flour. However, the regular family flour will give good results.
If all the ingredients are cold the dough will be much easier to handle. Warm shortening absorbs the flour, making a dense mixture in which no air is inclosed, and which becomes sticky and difficult to roll on the board. Chopping the fat into the flour is recommended. If rubbed in with the finger tips the warmth of the fingers will heat the fat somewhat unless the manipulation is quick and skillful. Do not rub or chop the fat into the flour too thoroughly; mix until the consistency of coarse meal. Plain crisp pastry has all the shortening added to the flour. For flaky pastry only half shortening is added to the flour and the remainder is rolled into the dough after the liquid has been added.
When adding the cold water use a knife for mixing, add very slowly, using only enough to hold the mixture to- gether. If too much water is used it will be necessary to use more flour when the dough is rolled out, and if that is the case the pastry will be tough from handling and the fat and flour will not be in the right proportion. Use only a sprinkling of flour to keep the molding board dry, so that
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [217]
the dough may be rolled easily. After rolling, the pastry should be allowed to stand, closely covered, in a cool place. The moisture acts on the gluten in the flour, making it much easier to roll. Handle the dough as quickly and as lightly as possible. Bake in a hot oven, for no matter how carefully the dough has been made, if not properly baked the pie will be a failure.
Unless carefully baked, undercrusts are often soggy. For this reason pastry shells baked without the filling will give the best results. If, however, a filled two-crust pie is desired, do not put the pastry and filling together until the oven is ready to receive them, for the moisture of the filling will soak into the pie crust.
Pie crust should be rolled out to about one-eighth of an inch in thickness. When lining the pan. lay the crust on loosely and allow it to come a little over the edge. The scissors will be found the most convenient means of cutting the dough. If the pastry is stretched it will shrink and probably break while baking. When making fruit pies which may be very juicy, the undercrust can be brushed over with unbeaten white of an egg, which coagulates as soon as the heat reaches it and makes an impervious coat- ing. Or the bottom crust may be sprinkled with very fine dry bread crumbs or with a little flour which will absorb the excessive moisture at once and prevent the crust from becoming soaked.
After the filling is put in, the top crust is placed in position; this should be rolled out about one-eighth of an mch thick also, and should extend about a quarter of an inch beyond the pie plate. Then fold the top crust under the bottom one and flute the edge either with the fingers or a fork. Perforate the top crust so that the steam may escape — or the crust will be soggy on the under side and pufF up in the center. If a very dark brown is desired the top crust may be brushed over lightly with milk. When making very juicy pies allow one tablespoon of flour to each cupful of sugar used. Mix sugar and flour until well blended, then sprinkle over the fruit. Or the pie may be bound around the edge with a narrow strip of cloth which has been dipped in either milk or water.
[218] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
When making pastry shells for a one-crust pie, invert a deep pie pan and place the pastry on it, pinching the edges to make a deep border. Prick the pastry in several places with a fork. Place in a hot oven; in about ten minutes the shell should be a golden color. It should be watched care- fully until ready to take from the oven. Remove from the tin and place the filling in the shell.
Pastry for several pies may be made at one time, rolled and set in a cool place in a well-covered utensil until needed. This is sometimes a great advantage for a very busy housewife. Always serve pastry fresh or reheat if the pie is a day old and it will become crisp and fresh.
There really is no mystery, no magic possessed by a favored few, to make good pastry. Just follow the general directions and you will surely have satisfactory results.
Note. — All measurements are level and flour is sifted once before measuring. One-half pint measuring cup is used.
Plain Pastry
1}4 cups flour. }4 cup shortening.
^ teaspoon salt. }4 (about) cup cold water.
Sift flour and salt together. Chop shortening into the flour; add liquid gradually, using knife. This dough should become stiff enough not to stick to the sides of the mixing bowl. Place dough on molding board and roll to J4 inch thickness. Then fold one-third of this sheet of pastry over the center, fold the remaining third over the first fold, then fold across. Roll to one-fourth inch thick- ness again.
This pastry can be used at once, but is improved if al- lowed to stand several hours. By folding the dough in this manner, layers of air are inclosed, which expand when the pastry is placed in the hot oven, making the pie flaky. While the oven should be hot at first the heat should be reduced after it has browned.
Flaky Pastry
l}i cups flour. M cup butter.
J^ teaspoon salt. }>i (about) cup of cold water.
yi cup shortening.
Proceed as for plain pastry, leaving out the butter.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [219]
which should be washed in cold water until smooth and elastic, then dried. Roll out dough, place butter in the center, fold over dough as directed above, and roll out. Repeat this twice. Dough is then ready for use. If butter breaks through the dough, set aside until cool, when it can be easily handled. This pastry is for pastry shells, tarts, etc.
Orange Souffle Pie
1 cup of orange juice and grated 4 tablespoons corn starch or rind. flour.
1 lemon and grated rind. 3 eggs, separated. % cup of sugar. 3^ cup sugar.
Heat orange and lemon juice and grated rind in a double boiler. Mix j4 cup of sugar and flour until well blended; add to hot juice and cook until thick. Beat egg yolks, add to hot mixture and cook 5 minutes. Beat egg whites until stiff, add }i cup sugar. Fold into hot mixture and pour into a baked pastry shell. Place in a slow oven and bake until the top is a delicate brown, about eight minutes. This last may be omitted if wished. Cool thoroughly before serving.
\ Butterscotch Pie
1)4, cups brown sugar. 1 egg, beaten.
2 tablespoons butter. 1 cup scalded milk. 4 tablespoons corn starch or ]/i cup cold milk.
flour. 1 teaspoonful vanilla flavoring.
2 eggs, separated.
Mix flour or com starch with cold milk to a smooth paste; add to hot milk and cook over hot water until thick, about IS minutes. Beat 1 egg and 2 egg yolks and add to the thickened mixture. While the first mixture is cooking put the sugar and butter in a saucepan and cook, stirring constantly until perfectly blended and sugar is somewhat melted. Add this to the other mixture, cook until thick. Add vanilla and pour into a baked pastry shell. When cool, beat the whites of two eggs very stiff. Add gradually 4 tablespoons of sugar and a few drops of vanilla. Pile on top of pie and set in a slow oven until a delicate brown, about eight minutes.
[220] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Apricot Tart
Drain and press cooked dried or canned apricots through a coarse sieve, having 1>^ cups of apricot pulp. Add 2 tablespoons of orange juice. Pour into a baked pastry shell, and cover the entire surface with cooked apricots, cut side up. Place a blanched almond in the center of each apricot to simulate a pit. Melt any clear amber jelly and pour over the top to glaze. Jelly may be made of ^ cup of hot apricot juice to which has been added 1 teaspoon of gelatine soaked in 1 tablespoon of cold water. Cool some- what before pouring over the fruit and set aside to become firm.
Pumpkin or Squash Pie
13^ cups milk. 3^ teaspoon nutmeg.
2 eggs. M teaspoon salt.
1 cup brown sugar. VA cups cooked pumpkin.
1 teaspoon cinnamon. ]^ cup orange marmalade. 1 teaspoon ginger.
Put ingredients in upper part of a double boiler and cook until somewhat thick. Pour into a pastry lined pie dish and bake until firm, having oven hot when pastry is first put in but immediately reducing the heat.
Lemon Meringue Pie
13^ cups boiling water. 2 teaspoons butter.
1 cup sugar. 4 tablespoons flour.
J^ cup of lemon juice. 2 egg yolks.
Grated rind of lemon. 1 egg.
Mix the sugar and flour; add the boiling water stirring constantly. Cook over hot water until thick, then add butter, beaten egg yolks and egg, lemon rind and juice. Stir constantly, cooking until thick. Pour into a baked pastry shell. Cool and cover with a meringue made by beating 2 egg whites until stiff then add gradually 2 table- spoons of sugar, beating well. Fold in 2 more tablespoons of sugar and pile on top of lemon filling. Bake on the top grate of a very moderate oven about eight minutes.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [221]
Custard Pie
IH cups scalded milk. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
3 eggs. Nutmeg.
% cup sugar.
Beat eggs slightly, add sugar and vanilla, then add the hot milk and pour into a pastry lined pie dish and sprinkle top with nutmeg Have oven hot when pie is first placed in the oven but immediately reduce the heat.
Apple Pie
Use rather tart apples. Peel, core and slice very thin. Arrange apples in a pastry lined pie plate. Mix y2 teaspoonful of ground nutmeg with ^ cup of sugar; sprinkle over the apple and break 1 tablespoonful of butter into bits and dot over the top. Adjust top crust, place in a hot oven, reduce the heat in ten minutes and cook until apples are tender about 40 minutes. Hot apple pie is particularly good served with a hard sauce.
Apple Tart
Line a pie plate with flaky pastry. Fill with cold apple sauce. Peel and core 2 apples. Cut in quarters, then slice as thin as possible and arrange in rows around the pie on top of the apple sauce allowing each slice to overlap the preceding slice. Sprinkle with sugar and a little ground nutmeg and bake in a hot oven until the crust is baked and the apple slices tender. Melt }4 glass of jelly over hot water beating with a fork and if necessary add a little hot water. Pour over the top of the pie to glaze. Set aside to cool. This is a very attractive pie. The jelly can be made of the apple skins and cores left from the apple sauce. Cover with hot water and cook until skins are soft, then strain. Return to fire, cook about 10 minutes, add equal quantity of sugar and the juice of a lemon. To test, drop a little on a cold saucer if thick it is cooked enough.
Strawberry Tart
Bake a pastry shell. Cook one cup of strawberries with ^2 cup of sugar. Strain and add 2 teaspoons of granualted gelatine which has been dissolved in 1 tablespoon of cold
[222] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
water. Fill the baked pastry shell, with fresh hulled straw- berries. Pour the cooled strawberry mixture over the top and set aside to become firm. Garnish with whipped cream.
Pumpkin and Nut Pie
1 cup cooked pumpkin or 1 teaspoon ginger.
squash. ^ teaspoon salt.
}/2 cup sugar. 2 eggs, well beaten.
1 teaspoon cinnamon. 1 cup sweet milk.
Mix in the order given. Bake until firm in a pan lined with pastry. When cold cover with whipped cream flavored with vanilla. Cream may be put on with a pastry bag. Sprinkle finely chopped nuts over the top.
Cranberry Pie
1 quart cranberries. 2 cups sugar.
2 cups boiling water.
Put cranberries in boiling water and cook covered for 10 minutes. Remove cover, add sugar and cook 5 min- utes longer. Line tin with pastry, fill with the cran- berries, put strips of pastry over the top and bake.
Date Pie
2 cups milk. M teaspoon salt.
1 cup dates, stoned. Few grains nutmeg.
2 eggs.
Cook dates with milk in double boiler for 5 minutes. Strain and rub through a sieve, then add eggs and salt. Have tin lined with pastry, add filling and bake as a custard pie. When ready to serve cover with whipped cream.
Prune Pie
2 cups prunes. 2 tablespoons flour.
}4 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon lemon juice.
2 teaspoons butter.
Wash prunes and soak in cold water to cover 2 hours or more. Cook slowly in same water until soft. Remove stones, cut prunes in quarters, and mix with sugar and lemon juice. Line plate with pastry, cover with prunes, pour over the prune juice, dot with butter, dredge with
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [223]
flour, put on upper crust and bake in moderate oven. Or, instead of upper crust, use strips of pastry crossed in lattice fashion.
Prune Cream Filling
1 cup cooked pitted prunes put 2 eggs.
through coarse sieve. }4 cup sugar.
}/2 cup chopped walnuts. 1 teaspoon flour.
1 cup scalded milk. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
Mix sugar and flour; add to beaten eggs; pour the scalded milk over the egg mixture. Add prune pulp and walnuts, mix well and pour into a pan lined with pastry; sprinkle nutmeg over the top. Bake as for custard pie.
Raisin Pie
13^ cups seeded raisins. 1 tablespoon flour.
1}4 cups boiling water. 3^ cup sugar.
Grated rind and juice of one- ^ cup finely chopped walnuts, half lemon.
Cook raisins in boiling water until tender. Mix flour and sugar and add to rasins, stirring until thick. Add lemon and walnuts, cool slightly and bake between two crusts.
Rhubarb Pie with Meringue
2 cups cooked rhubarb. Grated rind of }4 orange or
1 cup sugar. lemon.
2 eggs, separated. 1 baked pastry shell. 1 tablespoon flour.
Wash fresh rhubarb and cut into inch pieces. Cover with boiling water and cook until boiling point is reached. Drain off" all juice. Measure 2 cupfuls of rhubarb for each pie. Put in a double boiler and set over hot water. Mix flour and sugar and add to rhubarb, stirring until mixture thickens somewhat. Add the well beaten yolks, cook about 5 minutes, add grated orange rind or a table- spoonful of orange marmalade; cool, then pour into the baked pastry shell. Beat the 2 egg whites until stiflF, gradually add 2 tablespoons of sugar, then fold in 2 more tablespoons of sugar. Pile on top of pie and bake in a very moderate oven 8 minutes.
[224] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Cheese Cake
IM cups scalded milk. 1^ cups cottage cheese.
3 eggs. 1 teaspoon almond flavoring. % cups sugar.
Beat eggs separately, add sugar to yolks and beat until creamy; then pour hot milk over the mixture, add cheese and flavoring; then fold in the well-beaten egg whites, line a deep pan with pastry, pour in the mixture. It will take about 45 to 60 minutes to bake. Test by plunging knife through the center; if it comes out clean the cheese custard is cooked sufficiently.
Meringue for Pies or Puddings
2 egg whites. ^ teaspoon vanilla.
4 tablespoons sugar.
Beat egg whites until very stiff; then add half the sugar, one tablespoon at a time, beating each one in well before adding the next. Fold in the remaining sugar and flavor- ing. Spread on top of filling and bake in a moderate oven until a golden brown — about 8 minutes. Let pie cool somewhat before adding meringue.
Mince Meat
First Part : Second Part :
6 cups cooked meat, chopped. 2 oranges, juice and grated rind.
3 cups suet, chopped. 2 lemons, juice and grated rind. 12 cups apples, chopped. 1 tablespoon salt.
4 cups sugar. 2 tablespoons cinnamon. 2 cups molasses. 2 tablespoons nutmeg.
1 quart boiled cider. 2 tablespoons allspice. 4 packages seeded raisins. 1 tablespoon cloves.
4 packages seedless raisins. 1 tablespoon almond extract.
2 cups shredded citron. 1 glass currant jelly.
Put all ingredients of first part in a large kettle and cook very slowly until apples are cooked and suet melted. When cooked add ingredients in second part. Put in sterilized jars and seal tightly.
Canned Fruit Pie Fillings
Drain all juice from fruit. Allow >^ cupful of juice for each pie. Put in a sauce pan to heat, mix 1 tablespoonful
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [225]
of corn starch, flour or arrowroot with enough cold water to make a smooth paste. Add to hot juice and cook stirring constantly until the mixture thickens; add to fruit and cool before using. One teaspoonful of lemon juice will add greatly to the flavor of all fruit pies. Line a deep pie plate with plain pastry, pour in the cold fruit mixture, place on upper crust and bake about 15 minutes in a hot oven.
CHAPTER ELEVEN
GENERAL RULES FOR MIXING AND
BAKING CAKES
CAKE FILLINGS AND ICINGS
SMALL CAKES
COOKIES
DOUGHNUTS
[228] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Cakes with Shortening
INCH cake comes on the list of luxuries, the utmost care should be taken both in the method of prep- aration and in the quality of material used. It is not difficult to make a good cake if good materials are used and care in measuring and combining ingredients is exercised. However, the baking requires more study and care than the mixing, for no matter how well you have put the cake batter together, if the oven is not right the cake will be a failure. In the first place, choose a reliable recipe, then assemble all necessary materials and utensils. Pans should be prepared and oven heated before mixing the cake batter. If the ingredients are all measured be- fore actual mixing begins the work will be much easier and unexpected interruptions will not create a doubt as to whether all the materials have been used. For success care must be taken in measuring, all measurements being level. For butter cakes there are two ways to add the shortening; for inexpensive cakes containing a small quantity of shortening the result will be found satisfactory if the fat is melted and added to the batter after the cake is all mixed. For the richer cakes, where ]/2 cup or more of shortening is used, the shortening is beaten to a cream, or until smooth and waxy. This can be accomplished easily if the mixing bowl is rinsed with hot water, then wiped dry before the shortening is placed in it. Add the sugar gradually to the creamed shortening and continue to beat until the mixture resembles whipped cream.
Beating the butter to a cream first makes the creaming of butter and sugar an easy process. The eggs may then be added whole, one at a time, and beating the mixture thoroughly each time; or the eggs may be separated, beating the yolks until thick and lemon colored and the whites until stiff. Add the beaten yolks to the creamed butter and sugar mixture; add the sifted dry ingredients alternately with the liquid, beating the mixture well. Add some flour to the mixture before any of the liquid is used. This prevents the mixture from curdling which, while it does not spoil the cake, it will not be of the right texture.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [229]
Adding the whole unbeaten egg to the batter produces a close textured^ moist cake, while beating the eggs sepa- rately gives a light dryer cake. Water may be used in- stead of milk, the mixture will be of a different texture. If eggs are beaten separately the stiffly beaten whites should be carefully folded into the mixture. The more the cake is beaten before the egg whites are added the firmer will be the texture of the cake.
Cakes should be baked as soon as mixed. A great deal depends on the proper baking, and the best way to assure satisfactory results is to time the cake and divide the time of baking into quarters. In the first quarter the mixture should rise in the pan; in the second quarter it should continued to rise and brown in spots; in the third quarter the top of the cake should be uniformly browned, and in the last quarter the cake should shrink from the sides of the pan and it should be baked.
If in doubt as to whether the cake should be taken from the oven test it by touching lightly in the center. If baked, the mixture will spring back, but if not quite baked it will hold the imprint of the finger.
This rule for timing applies to all cakes, whether layer or loaf, or where a slow or medium oven is used.
The time for baking will vary a little for different ovens, but the average time for a medium-sized layer cake is from 15 to 20 minutes. Loaf cakes 3 inches thick will require about 40 minutes; sheet cakes and cup cakes about 25 minutes. Cakes baked in a brick shaped pan will require an hour or longer. A moderate oven will give the best results for nearly all cakes.
If the batter rises in a cone in the center you are using too hot an oven, and a crust has formed before the mix- ture has had time to rise; or too much flour has been used.
When the cake is baked, it should be allowed to cool before being turned from the pan, and it should cool so that there will be a circulation of air about it, to prevent the steam from condensing and giving a moist surface to the cake.
A few formulae are all that is required to make many varieties of cake. Flavorings, fruits, nuts and the various fillings and icings will give an unlimited variety even
[230] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
though the same cake batter is used. The advantage of using one or two foundation recipes lies mainly in the fact that practice makes perfect and one can soon become expert in mixing and baking the cake better.
There is a type of cake very popular that does not re- quire a standard cake batter. These cakes are more like meringues. They are very easy to make but somewhat ex- pensive. These require a special type of pan called a spring form. The rim is removable, leaving the cake on the bottom of the pan for it cannot be removed until cut in slices. Many very attractive cakes are made in these spring forms.
Note. — All measurements are level and flour is sifted once before measuring. One-half pint measuring cup is used.
Foundation Cake Recipe
Yi cup shortening. 3 eggs.
V/i cups sugar. Y^ cup milk or water.
2 cups flour sifted with 2 tea- 1 teaspoon each of vanilla and spoons of baking powder. lemon extract.
Cream shortening until it may be beaten with a spoon, add sugar gradually, continue to cream. Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs. Beat yolks until thick and lemon colored, add to creamed butter and sugar; then add flour and liquid alternately; fold in the well-beaten whites of eggs and flavoring. Bake in 3 well-greased layer-cake pans in a moderate oven.
Walnut Loaf Cake
Follow foundation recipe, adding ^ cup of finely chopped walnuts to the cake batter before folding in the beaten white of eggs. Bake in a greased loaf cake pan about 45 minutes in a very moderate oven.
White Cake
Follow foundation recipe, using the whites of 4 eggs in place of 3 whole eggs. Mix the cake as directed, folding m the well-beaten whites of eggs last. For a loaf cake almond and lemon flavoring may be used. Bake in a greased loaf-cake pan about 45 minutes, or in 3 greased layer-cake pans 20 minutes.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [231]
Golden Cake
Follow foundation recipe, using 4 egg yolks and 1 whole egg. Mix cake as d rected, adding the we!l-beaten yolks and egg to the creamed butter and sugar. Bake in a loaf or in layers.
Devil's Food Cake
3^ cup butter. Y^ teaspoon cinnamon.
2 cups sugar. 1 cup milk or water. 4 eggs. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
V/i cups flour. 2 squares unsweetened choco-
3 teaspoons baking powder. late melted over hot water.
Cream shortening, add 1 cup of sugar cream together well; beat yolk of eggs until thick and lemon colored, add 1 cup of sugar and combine the two mixtures. Add flour, sifted with baking powder, and cinnamon, alternately with liquid. When well mixed, add flavoring and melted choc- olate, then fold in beaten whites of eggs. Ground chocolate (3^ cup) may be sifted with flour replacing melted chocolate. Bake in medium oven in greased pans.
This amount of batter will make 4 layers or 2 small loaves.
One Egg Chocolate Cake First Part: Second Part:
2 squares unsweetened choco- ^ cup shortening, late melted or ^ cup ground lyi cups sugar, chocolate. 1 egg.
\i cup sugar. % cup milk.
)^ cup milk. 2 cups flour.
3 teaspoons baking powder. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
Melt chocolate over hot water, then add sugar and milk and cook until thick and smooth. Set aside to cool slightly. Cream shortening, add 1 cup sugar, gradually mixing well. Beat egg, add remaining }^ cup of sugar and combine mixtures; when well mixed add flour (sifted with baking powder) and milk alternately, beating well. Add flavoring and the chocolate mixture. Pour in well- greased layer-cake pans and bake about 15 minutes in a moderate oven.
This mixture may also be baked in a loaf cake.
[232] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Christmas Fruit Cake
Yl cup butter. Yi cup molasses.
1 cup brown sugar. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
3 eggs. 2 cups seeded raisins.
1 cup flour. 2 cups seedless raisins.
yi cup ground chocolate. 3^ cup shredded citron.
1 teaspoon each cinnamon and Y teaspoon soda dissolved in nutmeg. 1 teaspoon cold water.
y^ teaspoon each cloves and all- spice.
Mix fruit well; sift flour, spices and chocolate; cream butter until waxy; add sugar, gradually beating well; add beaten egg yolks, molasses, vanilla and flour, mixing well. Combine fruit and cake batter; when well mixed, fold in the stiffly beaten white of eggs and the dissolved soda. Line a baking pan with greased paper, pour in the cake batter and bake in a very slow oven about 2 hours.
Pound Cake
1 cup butter. 2 cups flour.
1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon each of lemon and 6 eggs. vanilla flavoring.
Cream butter until waxy; add sugar gradually, cream- ing well. Separate eggs; beat yolks until thick. Add to butter and sugar mixture. Gradually add flour, beating batter constantly; add flavoring and carefully fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites. No baking powder is required. Less beating w^ill be necessary, however, if one scant tea- spoonful of baking powder is used. Bake in a shallow pan in a slow oven about 1 hour.
Spice Cake
Y cup shortening. 1 teaspoon cinnamon.
\}/i cups brown sugar. 3^ teaspoon nutmeg.
2 eggs well beaten without ^ teaspoon cloves.
separating. }/i teaspoon allspice.
2 cups flour sifted with 3 tea- 1 teaspoon vanilla, spoons of baking powder. 3^ cup cold coffee.
Sift flour with spices and baking powder. Cream short- ening; add sugar gradually, beating well; add beaten eggs then alternately the flour and coff"ee. Add flavoring and pour in a well-greased shallow pan and bake in a moderate
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [233]
oven between 45 and 50 minutes. One cup seedless or chopped seeded raisins may be added to this mixture.
Apple Sauce Cake
y^ cup shortening. 1 teaspoon soda.
1^ cups sugar. 1 teaspoon cinnamon.
2 eggs well beaten. 3^ teaspoon nutmeg.
1 cup seedless raisins. \i teaspoon cloves.
3^ cup chopped walnuts. 1 cup hot apple sauce (strained).
2 cups flour.
Sift flour, spices and soda. Cream the shortening, beat in the sugar, beaten eggs, raisins and nuts. Add flour alter- nately with the apple sauce. Bake in a shallow well- greased pan about 1 hour, in a moderate oven.
Quick Cake
2 eggs. 3^ cup milk or water.
1 cup sugar. 3^ cup melted shortening.
2 cups flour. 1 teaspoon vanilla. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 1 teaspoon lemon.
Sift dry ingredients, except sugar; beat eggs until very light, add sugar gradually, beating with egg beater. When creamy, add dry ingredients alternately with liquid, mix- ing well. Add flavoring and melted shortening. Bake in 2 layers and put together with jelly or add % cup chopped walnuts and bake in well-greased muffin pans.
Apple or Prune Cake
Use quick cake foundation recipe. Pour batter in a shallow, well-greased pan, cover top with thinly sliced ap- ples or pitted prunes, placing the fruit in even rows, sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar. Bake in a moderate oven until apples are cooked.
This cake is good, hot or cold.
Quick CofiEee Cake
Use quick cake foundation recipe. Pour batter into a well-greased shallow pan, sprinkle with sugar and cinna- mon. Bake in a moderate oven. Cut in squares.
[234] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Boston Cream Pie
Although called a pie this dish is really a cake. Make the quick cake and bake in 2 layers. For one cake make ]/2 of the French cream filling. When both cake and filling are cold, spread the filling between the layers and sprinkle powdered sugar over the top.
Lady Finger Cake
First Part: Second Part:
2 squares unsweetened choco- Yi cup unsalted butter.
late or 1 cup ground choco- 1 cup powdered sugar, sifted.
late. 4 egg whites stiffly beaten.
J^ cup sugar. Yi cup finely chopped walnuts.
M cup cold water. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
4 eggs yolked, beaten. Yi lb. lady fingers.
Put unsweetened chocolate in the upper part of a double boiler; set over hot water to melt. When melted add sugar, water and beaten yolks. Cook until very thick, stirring occasionally. Ground chocolate needs no melting. Set aside until thoroughly chilled then prepare second part. Cream the butter until waxy; gradually add sugar, beat until creamy, then add vanilla and chopped nuts. Com- bine first and second mixtures and when thoroughly mixed fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites. It is necessary to have a pan with a removable rim called a spring form. Cover the bottom of the pan with split lady fingers, then place split lady fingers close together all around the sides of the pan. If pan is slightly buttered the lady fingers can be pressed firmly to the pan, the bottom layer of lady fingers will help keep those on the sides in place. Pour in the chocolate mixture, cover top closely with lady fingers and set the cake in a cool place for at least 12 hours before serving. It will become firm enough to slice. Before serv- ing carefully remove rim of pan and cover the top with whipped cream. Decorate with cream pressed through a pastry bag or with walnut meats or cherries. This makes an unusually attractive dessert and will serve 12 persons.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [235]
Crumb Cake
3 eggs separated. M teaspoon baking powder.
3^ cup sugar. 3^ cup chopped nuts.
3 tablespoons cracker meal. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
Beat egg yolks, add sugar, beat until creamy. Add cracker meal, baking powder and nuts, carefully fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites. Pour into a greased spring form. Bake 15 minutes in a medium oven. Cool, remove rim of pan. To serve — cover top of cake with raspberry jam; cover jam with a layer of finely chopped nuts; cover nuts with a layer of sweetened whipped cream and gar- nish top with walnut meats, maraschino cherries, or whipped cream pressed through a pastry bag using a star tube.
King Cake
First Part: Second Part:
13^ cups flour. 2 eggs separated.
y^. cup shortening. 3^ cup sugar.
3^ teaspoon salt. 3^ cup flour.
yi cup cold water. 1 teaspoon vanilla. 3^ cup raspberry jam.
Sift flour and salt and rub in the shortening as for plain pastry. Gradually add water using a knife for mixing. Roll on a very slightly floured board to fit a round cake pan, reserving the remaining dough to use later. Set in a cool place. For the second part beat egg whites until stiff and yolks until creamy, add sugar gradually to yolks beating well with the egg beater. Add flavoring and care- fully fold in the flour and beaten egg whites. Cover the bottom of the pastry lined pan with jam and pour the cake mixture over that. Roll the remaining pastry into an oblong strip and cut into lengths y^ inch wide and long enough to fit loosely over the top of the pan. Wet the edges with water and press firmly across the top of the pastry shell. Four strips each way crossing lattice fashion will be sufficient. Place in a fairly hot oven reducing the heat in 10 minutes to moderate. Bake until the cake springs back if touched lightly in the center. Cool before serving. This cake is like that sold in French confectioners under the same name.
[236] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Sponge Cakes
HEN eggs reach a normal price it is possible to in- dulge in the various types of sponge cakes and even angel cake does not seem impossibly extrava- gant. True sponge cakes are made without baking powder and are light, moist and delicate. They can be given to children and those who cannot eat rich cakes, or cakes containing shortening. An endless variety of small attractive cakes can be made from almost any good sponge cake formula, and are suitable for almost any occasion but particularly attractive for afternoon teas and children's parties. A true sponge cake contains no baking powder but is lightened entirely by the air which has been beaten into the eggs, and for that reason a whip egg-beater should be used to beat the egg whites, as this type of egg-beater incorporates approximately J^ more air than a rotary egg beater. It is the expansion of this air, when placed in the oven, that leavens the cake and the more air incorporated, the lighter the cake will be. Sponge cakes made with baking powder do not require the number of eggs necessary for a true sponge cake. Liquid is added also to replace eggs. These sponge cakes may be beaten with a rotary egg beater for the baking powder will make them light. Such sponge cakes are quickly and easily made but while light and palatable are never so delicate nor fine in texture as the true sponge cakes.
Pans containing a center tube are the most satisfactory for loaf sponge cake. The cakes will bake more evenly and much quicker in this type of pan. In fact for the best results with loaf cakes made without baking powder, a pan should be kept for this purpose only, for it should never be greased. As the cake rises it will cling to the sides of an ungreased pan, producing a lighter cake. For sponge cakes made with baking powder greased pans should be used. A true sponge cake should be cooled in the pan in which it is baked; having the pan inverted; in this way, the moist cell walls of the cake will not settle, but will stretch, making the cake light. Pans come pro-
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [237]
vided with little extensions to invert them or the pan may be raised on two saucers. The air must circulate around the cake. When cool the cake can easily be removed by running a flat knife between the cake and the pan.
Quickness in putting sponge cake together is one of the essentials to success. To mix a true sponge cake, separate the yolks and whites of the eggs. Beat the yolks with a rotary egg beater until very creamy. Add the sugar gradually, beating constantly; add flavoring. Beat the egg whites with an egg whip until the bowl can be inverted. Fold very carefully into the next mixture, then care- fully fold in the flour. Do not beat the mixture after the flour is added, simply fold the ingredients over and over until all are well mixed or blended. If beaten or stirred, most of the work of inclosing a large amount of air will be undone by breaking these air bubbles. The cake should be put in the pan at once and placed in a moderate oven.
For angel cake the whites of the eggs are beaten with an egg whip until the dish can be inverted; the sugar is carefully folded into them, adding gradually; then the flour folded into the mixture in the same manner. Use a moderate oven. An average sized loaf sponge cake will require about 50 minutes to bake.
The cheaper sponge cakes where few eggs and baking powder is used are baked in a hotter oven than the true sponge cakes and may be baked in layers, a loaf, small cakes, or baked in a shallow pan and cut into small cakes.
Sponge cakes are wholesome and delicate and ofi^er a number of variations to be used for almost any occasion.
Note. — All measurements are level and flour is sifted once before measuring. One-half pint measuring cup is used.
Angel Cake
^ cup whites of eggs. 1 teaspoon each almond and
3^ teaspoon cream of tartar. lemon flavoring.
^ cup sugar. J^ cup flour.
Beat egg whites until foamy, using a whip egg-beater; add cream of tartar, then beat eggs until very stiff and dry. This is most important, otherwise the cake will be tough and leathery. Add sugar gradually, carefully fold-
[238] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
jng it in; then add flavoring and lastly the flour, folding in gradually. Bake in an ungreased pan about 45 min- utes.
This makes a small cake; double the quantity for a larger one, baking from 50 to 60 minutes.
True Sponge Cake
6 egg yolks. 3^ teaspoon cream of tartar.
1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon each lemon and va- 1 cup flour. nilla.
6 egg whites.
Beat the yolks of eggs until thick; add sugar gradually, beating with the egg-beater; add flavoring. Beat the whites of the eggs until stiff and firm, using a whip egg- beater; fold carefully into the egg yolk mixture, then gradually fold in the flour. Pour into an ungreased tube cake pan and bake in a slow oven about 50 minutes.
This formula will make two dozen small cakes.
Plain Sponge Cake
3 eggs . 1 teaspoon baking powder.
1 cup sugar. ^ teaspoon salt.
3 tablespoons water. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
1 cup flour. 1 teaspoon lemon.
Beat the eggs without separating until light and creamy, add sugar gradually and beat again till thick and very light colored. Add water, beat again, add sifted dry in- gredients. Beat well, then add flavoring. Pour into a greased cake pan, one with center tube preferred, and bake about 30 minutes in a moderate oven, or bake in layers.
Chocolate Sponge Cake
Use either sponge cake recipe, omitting 2 tablespoons of flour and substituting 1 tablespoon of cocoa or 2 of ground chocolate. Use vanilla flavoring only.
Jelly Roll
Use plain sponge cake foundation, but separate the eggs, beating each well. Proceed as above, adding 1 tablespoon of melted shortening and folding in the stiffly beaten whites of eggs last. Have a shallow pan well
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [239]
greased and covered with greased paper. Pour in cake mixture and bake in a hot oven between 10 and 12 min- utes. Turn at once onto a cloth which has been sprinkled with powdered sugar, remove paper, cut off crusts, spread with jelly and roll. (This must be done quickly.) Wrap in cloth until cool and sprinkle with powdered sugar.
Chocolate Roll
6 eggs, beaten separately. 14 cup ground chocolate.
}4 cup granulated sugar. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
Beat yolks until creamy with a rotary egg-beater; add sugar and chocolate gradually, beating well; add flavor- ing. Whip egg whites until very stilF, and fold carefully into the mixture. Line a well greased pan with greased paper and pour in the mixture. Bake in a moderate oven 25 minutes. Turn out on a towel, remove paper and roll as for jelly roll. Set aside to cool. Whip 1 cup of cream, add 2 tablespoons of powdered sugar and 1 table- spoonful of vanilla. Unroll cake, spread with whipped cream, re All and serve with a chocolate sauce.
[240] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Icings and Fillings
Cake icings and fillings have improved greatly both in quality and variety from those used a generation ago. Now many of these frostings are as delicate and fine as the creamy French confectionery. A few founda- tion recipes form the basis for most of these icings and fillings, and when these are once mastered it will be possible to produce almost any variety. The de- velopment of these foundation recipes is both interest- ing and simple. The uncooked icings are the easiest, for very little skill is necessary in their preparation.
The plain confectioner's icing is made of hot water, powdered or confectioner's sugar and flavoring.
Other liquids than water offer a number of variations of this plain recipe. Cream, with vanilla or mocha flavor- ing, makes a rich, creamy icing; lemon juice may replace a portion of the hot water for lemon icing; pure fruit juices, such as orange, pineapple, etc., make excellent icings and will be found particularly good for sponge cakes. Strong, hot coff'ee or mocha extract may replace the hot water, making the mocha icing.
When using other liquids than water it is not necessary to heat them. Confectioners' icing will become firm and glossy soon after being spread on the cake. It never be- comes hard and "sugary ' and keeps for some time, and does not crumble when cut.
Chocolate confectioners' icing may have J4 cup of chopped nuts added or equal quantities of chopped nuts and chopped raisins. It may also be changed somewhat by using either vanilla or cinnamon to flavor. This plain foundation recipe has many possibilities for variety and is so quickly and easily made, there need be no waste.
The quantities given in the recipe will ice an average- sized cake. If this quantity is not right for the size cake you wish, a little practice will soon teach you the right proportions. One of the best features of this type of frost- ing is that you are really unable to spoil it If you have not been accurate in your measurements and the icing is
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [241]
too thick add more liquid until of the right consistency, or if the icing is too thin more sugar may be added.
Butter icings are also uncooked and are very easily prepared. This type of icing is more often used as a cake filling, and is very popular. Unsalted butter will give the best flavored icing, but if salted butter is used it should be well washed in cold water to remove all the salt.
The cooked icings are not quite so easily made. This class of icing has much greater possibilities for variety than the uncooked icing. There are several varieties of boiled icings, but this usually applies to a sugar syrup which has been boiled until the mixture will form a "soft ball" when tested in cold water (about 238 degrees F. on a sugar thermometer), then the syrup is added gradually to the well-beaten white of egg. To test carefully dip a teaspoon into the syrup and drop into cold water. Roll between the fingers under the water. If syrup is sticky it is not cooked enough; if hard it is cooked too long. It should roll in a soft ball. Always use a fresh cup of cold water for each testing.
This icing will never prove a failure if the rules and de- tails of the process are carefully followed. Sugar has a tendency to crystallize and to overcome this, care must be taken when mixing the water and sugar. First add the sugar to the saucepan, then carefully pour over the water, which should be boiling hot, so that the sugar will dissolve at once. Do not stir and cause crystals of sugar to adhere to the sides of the saucepan; simply mix suffi- ciently to dissolve the sugar, then cover the saucepan and when the syrup reaches the boiling point remove the cover and cook to the soft-ball stage without stirring.
By covering the mixture until boiling point is reached, the steam will wash down any grains of sugar which may have gathered on the sides of the pan. This may sound complicated, but is really very simple, and if these pre- cautions are taken and the syrup cooked to the "soft- ball" stage, the finished icing will be creamy. If these rules are not followed, if the syrup is stirred while cook- ing, or if cooked too long, the icing will be hard and sugary.
[242] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
A very much easier cooked icing is made by cooking the syrup over hot water or in a double boiler. This is called quick icing.
This is a very simple and satisfactory method and if the directions are followed exactly this icing may be used for filling and icings in place of the more complicated boiled frosting.
Note. — All measurements are level and flour is sifted once before measuring. One-half pint measuring cup is used.
Boiled Icing
1)4. cups granulated sugar. H cup hot water.
Whites of 2 eggs.
Add hot water to sugar, being careful not to stir so there will be no sugar on sides of saucepan, cover until boiling point is reached, then remove and cook syrup until it will form a soft ball when rolled between the fingers in a cup of cold water. Pour on well-beaten whites of eggs and beat until stiff, then flavor.
Quick Icing
5^ cup sugar. 1 egg white.
3 tablespoons cold water.
Put sugar, water and unbeaten egg white into a double boiler, place over boiling water and beat with an egg beater for 6 minutes. Remove from the fire and beat until thick enough to spread; add flavoring.
Confectioner's Icing
2 tablespoons hot water. 34 teaspoon lemon flavoring.
Confectioner's sugar.
To the hot water add enough confectioner's sugar to make stiffs enough to spread. Do not use this icing on a hot cake or it will melt. Any fruit juice may be used in- stead of water. Orange juice and grated rind are partic- ularly satisfactory.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [243]
Chocolate Confectioner's Icing and Filling
2 squares unsweetened choco- IJ^ cups powdered sugar, late or 3^ cup ground chocolate. }4 cup hot water. 1 teaspoon butter. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
Melt chocolate and butter over hot water. When melted add sugar, then hot water gradually, beating until smooth, then add flavoring. Let stand until thick enough to spread between layers. If used for icing only, can be used at once.
This filling may be varied by using cinnamon as flavor- ing or by using hot coffee instead of water.
Also, either chopped walnuts or raisins may be added. Do not put between layers while they are hot or the filling will melt.
Caramel Icing and Filling
1}4 cups brown sugar. 1 teaspoon butter.,
4 tablespoons milk. ^ teaspoon vanilla.
Put sugar in a saucepan, add milk and stir until dis- solved. Place over the fire and when mixture starts to boil cook 3 minutes. Take from the fire at once, add butter, turn into a cold bowl and beat until creamy; then add vanilla.
This may be used as an icing or filling. One-third cup of chopped walnuts may be added for the filling.
Creole Icing
Make the quick icing. Beat until thick and pile on top of a loaf cake. When firm, pour over the top melted, un- sweetened chocolate, or make half the chocolate icing and use in the same manner. This gives a chocolate cream top. The cake should be cut in small squares.
Divinity Icing
1 cup sugar. }4 cup chopped walnuts.
34 cup com syrup. }4 teaspoon salt.
}4 cup hot water. 1 teaspoon vanilla. 1 egg (white).
Mix sugar, syrup and water; cook until syrup forms a soft ball when dropped in cold water, then pour very
[244] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
slowly over the well-beaten white of an egg and continue beating until mixture becomes creamy and will hold its shape; add nuts, flavoring and salt.
Marshmallow Filling
Make boiled or quick icing. When syrup has all been added to the beaten eggs, add about 8 marshmallows and beat until they are melted. Flavor with yi teaspoon each of vanilla and orange extract.
Lady Baltimore Filling
Make boiled or quick icing. Just before it is ready to spread between the layers, add J^ cup chopped nuts, )/2 cup seeded raisins, chopped, 6 or 8 chopped candied cher- ries, or candied figs cut in thin strips.
Macaroon Filling
Make boiled or quick icing. When ready to use add the following mixture: Roll four macaroons until fine, add 3^ cup of finely chopped pecans or walnuts, 4 or 5 candied cherries and 1 teaspoon of vanilla.
Walnut Filling
Add 3^ cup of chopped walnuts and 1 teaspoon vanilla to the boiled or quick icing just before spreading between layers.
Waldorf Filling
Add 2 tablespoons of chopped walnuts and ^ cup of currant jelly to the cooked icing; flavor with vanilla.
Nut Caramel Filling
Add 3^ cup of chopped nuts (walnuts, almonds or pecans) to the caramel icing just before spreading on the cake.
French Cream Filling
1 cup milk. 1 egg or 2 yolks.
^ cup sugar. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
3^ cup flour. 1 teaspoon butter.
Put milk in double boiler to scald. Mix sugar and
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [245]
flour well; pour hot milk over flour and sugar and put back in double boiler. Stir constantly until somewhat thick; add beaten egg and continue cooking until very thick. Cool, add the vanilla. This amount of cream fill- ing will fill 9 cream puff's or a three-layer cake.
Cocoanut Cream Filling
Prepare French cream filling, adding 3 tablespoons ot cocoanut to the milk when scalding. Use lemon and orange flavoring, a teaspoon of each.
Walnut Cream Filling
Add J^ cup of finely chopped walnuts to the milk when scalding, following French cream filling recipe. Use a teaspoon each of lemon and vanilla flavoring.
Cream Filling Royal
Prepare the French cream filling and when cold fold in 1 cupful of whipped cream. This filling is preferred by many to plain whipped cream.
Chocolate French Cream Filling
Prepare French Cream Filling adding 2 tablespoons of ground chocolate to the sugar and flour; or melt 2 squares of unsweetened chocolate over hot water and add the cream after it is cooked.
Mocha Cream Filling
% cup strong coffee. ^ cup flour.
M cup cream, fresh or canned. 1 egg or 2 yolks. H cup sugar. 1 teaspoon butter.
Prepare in the same manner as for French cream filling. This also may have ^ cup of whipped cream added when cold.
Orange Cream Filling
1 cup orange juice, grated rind ]^ cup flour.
of oranges used. 1 egg or 2 yolks.
]/2 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon butter.
Prepare as for plain cream filling.
[246] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Pineapple Cream Filling
1 cup grated pineapple and }4 cup flour.
juice (canned). 1 teaspoon butter.
}4 cup sugar. 1 egg or 2 yolks.
Prepare as for plain cream filling. Less sugar is required if canned fruit is used.
Tutti-Frutti Icing or Filling
H cup sugar. 1 tablespoon chopped cherries.
3 tablespoons cold water. 1 tablespoon shredded citron or 1 egg white. orange peel.
}4 cup seedless raisins. 1 teaspoon each of vanilla and 1 tablespoon chopped walnuts. orange flavoring.
Put sugar, water and unbeaten egg w^hite in a double boiler, place over boiling water and beat with an egg beater for 6 minutes. Remove from the fire and beat until thick enough to spread, add flavoring and fruit. Spread between layers as a filling or on top of a loaf cake for an icing.
Mocha Butter Filling
}i cup butter. 1 tablespoon Mocha flavoring.
1 cup confectioner's sugar.
Sweet butter is best; otherwise wash salt butter thor- oughly.
Work butter until creamy; add sugar gradually and alternately with the flavoring. This filling is improved by adding J/2 cup of whipped cream.
Chocolate Mocha Filling
Prepare Mocha Butter Filling adding 2 tablespoons of ground chocolate.
Jelly Fillmg
Add J^ cup finely chopped nuts to a glass of currant jelly, spread between layers.
Prune Cake Filling
Wash prunes, remove stones and measure 1 cupful. Chop fine, add 3^ cup orange marmalade, 3^ cup finely chopped walnuts, 1 teaspoon lemon juice. Mix well and spread between layers.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [247]
Strawberry Filling
1 cup strawberries. 1 white of egg, unbeaten.
1 cup granulated sugar.
Measure strawberries after washing and removing hulls, add sugar and egg. Beat together with a whip egg- beater until thick as whipped cream. This will take about 15 minutes. To be used as a filling for little sponge cakes or cream puffs. Other fruits may be used in the same manner.
2481 MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Small Cakes and Cookies
Little cakes and cookies are so attractive and easy to serve. They make nice gifts, too, for those who do not have the time or the facilities for baking at home. And how the children love cookies or cakes which have been made especially for them! The mother who is always too busy or lacks the imagination and skill to cater to children: who never makes wonderful animal cookies or fat, dumpy gingerbread or doughnut men, has really deprived her off- spring of untold pleasure. Not only the eating of these mysterious, delightful creations, but to stand and watch them being made and to wait impatiently what seems ages before these miracles come out of the oven, all brown and fragrant. The memory of these childish joys is never forgotten.
Any household department can supply inexpensive cookie cutters. They come in most attractive shapes — all sorts of animals, chickens, birds, stars, diamonds and hearts. So, if time is limited, animal cookies can easily take the place of the gingerbread man.
Any rolled cookie recipe will be satisfactory. Only after the dough is mixed, set aside in a cool place for at least one hour, longer, if possible, to allow the dough to stiffen so it can be easily handled. Try not to work in a warm room when rolling and cutting and the process will be much easier. Lay the gingerbread man on a greased cookie sheet as you make him — then he won't have to be moved. Use whole allspice for the eyes, the star of a clove for the nose; a pointed knife will make a slit for the mouth — upturned, or not, as you wish — and dried currants or seedless raisins will answer for buttons down the front. The doughnut man is made by simply putting the round parts taken from the center together in the shape of a man and patting and joining them together. Or fry these centers; they make golden brown balls that can be rolled in sugar. The children will call them fried holes — which is really the right name after all.
Muffin pans can be used to advantage for a variety of little cakes. Almost any cake batter may be used — Cup
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [249]
Pound, Devirs Food or Nut Cakes or Sponge Cake batter. Baked in this form the cakes may be decorated in many ways without requiring much time or effort. Turn up- side down (cutting a small piece off of the base so they will stand level) and either ice all over or just on top. Half a nut meat or chopped nuts may be placed on the fresh icing before it hardens; or cocoanut, candied fruits or marshmallows. They can be elaborately trimmed with a pastry bag, or the top may be cut off completely, then scoop out a small portion of the center and fill the space with whipped cream (using a pastry bag, if possible).
Now cut the top or lid in two in the center and replace, pushing down the center edges, and let the outside look like a half opened basket filled with whipped cream. Shallow sponge cakes are very attractive when baked in muffin pans, then iced, split half way through the center and filled with whipped cream, French cream or a me- ringue. Any favored cake recipe may be used to make these little cakes, and there is no form in which to make them that requires so little skill to make decorative.
Cream puffs and eclairs are not difficult to make and can be made any size desired. For gift boxes, make about as big as a chocolate cream, place each small cream puff in a little paper case such as candy is packed in, then place in boxes and they will look wonderfully tempting.
Dropped cookies are very easy to make and offer great variety. Any cake batter may be used. Drop from the tip of a spoon on a greased cookie pan, several inches apart, and bake in a medium oven. An ordinary cake recipe will make a good many cookies. They may be sprinkled with nuts or candied fruit, cocoanut, etc. Filled cookies are very rich and are made by spreading a filling on top of one cookie, then placing another on top, press- ing the edges firmly together.
Little cakes and cookies are even more attractive than home made candies. Packed neatly in gay little boxes and tied with ribbons, they will prove a very, acceptable gift. And for the informal social gatherings, always so popular during the holidays, little cakes and cookies offer many pos- sibilities.
[250] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Note. — All measurements are level and flour is sifted once before measuring. One-lialf pint measuring cup is used.
Meringues or Kisses
3 egg whites. 1 teaspoon lemon flavoring.
1 cup granulated sugar. 1 teaspoon almond flavoring.
Beat egg whites until very dry and stiff, or until bowl may be inverted without eggs slipping out. Add gradually ^ cup of sugar, adding about 2 tablespoonfuls at a time. The mixture should be beaten until it holds its shape. Carefully fold in remaining y^ cup of sugar and the flavor- ing. Cover an inch-thick board with paper, fastening firmly. On this, with a spoon or pastry bag, shape the meringues into round or oval shapes. Dredge with gran- ulated sugar, and, if desired, sprinkle with shredded al- monds. Bake in a cool oven about 45 minutes for medium- sized meringues. They should not show any color until the last 10 minutes of baking, and then only allowed to color delicately. Remove paper from the board and peel it from the meringues. If the under portion is still soft, they may be set back in the oven upside down to dry them off.
Cream Puffs and Eclairs
First Part: Second Part:
1 cup boiling water. 4 eggs.
y^ cup butter. 1 cup flour.
Add butter to water and cook until melted; when boil- ing add flour all at once, and stir rapidly until mixture does not adhere to sides of saucepan. Turn into bowl, allow to cool slightly, then add eggs 1 at a time, unbeaten; beat well after adding each egg. Shape on well greased pans 3 inches apart, and bake in moderate oven about 30 minutes. Fill with French cream filling or whipped cream.
This amount will make 18 cream puflFs.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [251]
Little Sponge Cakes
3 egg yolks. ]/2 teaspoon lemon.
3 egg whites. H teaspoon salt.
yi cup sugar. J^ teaspoon vanilla. H cup flour.
Sift flour and salt. Beat yolks until thick and lemon colored. Add sugar gradually, beating well. Beat whites of eggs until stiff and fold in alternately and carefully with the flour. Bake in a very moderate over in ungreased pan. When cool, ice, split half-way open and fill with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, or with French cream filling. Or cut a thin slice off the top, remove a small portion of the center, fill with whipped cream, spread a layer of whipped cream over the top, replace the slice of cake and sprinkle powdered sugar over the top.
Baking Powder Sponge Cakes
3 eggs. 3 tablespoons water.
1 teaspoon lemon. 1 cup flour.
1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
Sift flour and baking powder. Beat eggs until very light, add sugar gradually, beating well, then add water, flavoring and flour. Bake in a moderate oven in greased muflRn pans. Ice with chocolate frosting.
Sugar Cookies
]4 cup butter. VA (about) cups flour.
1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon baking powder.
2 eggs. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
Cream butter, add sugar gradually, beating well, then 2 egg yolks and 1 white, beaten until light; add flour sifted with baking powder. Let stand to chill, then toss on a floured board, and roll J^ inch thick. Cut with a doughnut cutter, brush over with the unbeaten white of egg, sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon. Place on a greased baking sheet, and bake in a moderate oven about 10 minutes.
[252] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Drop Cookies
3^ cup butter. 1 cup flour.
y^ cup sugar. 1 teaspoon each of lemon and
2 eggs. vanilla.
Cream butter, add sugar gradually, beating thoroughly, then add 1 egg unbeaten, mixing until batter is smooth; add yi cup of flour, beat well, then 1 egg and continue beating; add remaining flour and flavoring. Drop with teaspoon on greased baking sheet about 3 inches apart. Nuts, raisins, cherries or slice of citron may be placed on top of each cookie. Bake in a moderate oven. These cookies spread while baking.
Rolled Oat Cookies
y2 cup shortening. Y^ cup chopped walnuts. 1 cup sugar, granulated or V/2 cups flour.
brown. i/^ teaspoon salt.
1 egg. y^ teaspoon soda.
\i cup milk. 1 teaspoon cinnamon.
V/2 cups rolled oats. 1 teaspoon nutmeg.
Yi cup chopped raisins. 1 teaspoon ginger.
Cream shortening well; add sugar gradually and con- tinue to cream; add egg, well beaten, milk, rolled oats, raisins and chopped nuts. Mix and sift dry ingredients and add to first mixture. Drop from tip of spoon on a well-greased pan, about 3 inches apart, and bake in a moderate oven about IS minutes.
Rolled Oat Macaroons
1 cup sugar. 1 cup chopped dates or raisins.
2 eggs. 2 cups rolled oats. 1 tablespoon melted butter. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
Beat eggs well without separating; add sugar gradually until very creamy, then add butter, flavoring, chopped fruit and rolled oats. Drop with teaspoon on well-greased cookie pan and bake in a moderate oven until golden brown.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [253]
Rolled Wheat Cookies
}/^ cup shortening. }4. teaspoon soda.
1 cup brown sugar. 1 teaspoon baking powder.
1 egg. 1)4 cups flour.
}/i cup milk. 13^ cups rolled wheat.
1 teaspoon vanilla. 1 cup cocoanut.
M teaspoon salt.
Cream shortening well, add sugar gradually constantly stirring; add egg, well beaten, milk, rolled wheat, cocoa- nut and vanilla. Mix and sift dry ingredients and add to first mixture. Drop from tip of spoon on a well-greased pan, about 3 inches apart, and bake in a moderate oven about 15 minutes.
Walnut Wafers
1 cup brown sugar. 2 tablespoons flour.
1 cup broken walnut meats. 1 egg, beaten. ]4: teaspoon salt.
Mix ingredients in order given. Drop from teaspoon on greased cookie pan several inches apart to allow for spread- ing. Bake in a very moderate oven and remove pan at once.
Hermits
\i cup shortening. 1 teaspoon cinnamon.
2 eggs. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 1 cup brown sugar. 1 teaspoon nutmeg.
2)4 cups flour. ]/2 teaspoon cloves.
3^ teaspoon salt. 1 cup raisins, seedless.
M teaspoon soda. 3^ cup walnuts, chopped.
Cream shortening, add sugar, sift all remaining dry in- gredients. Add well beaten eggs to butter and sugar; mix well, add dry materials, raisins and nuts. Chill and then roll out and cut in any desired shape. Bake in a moderate oven.
Ginger Cookies
M cup shortening. 3^ teaspoon soda.
14, cup brown sugar. 1 teaspoon baking powder.
3^ cup molasses. % teaspoon salt.
1 well-beaten egg. 1 teaspoon ginger.
V/2 cups flour. 3^ teaspoon cinnamon.
3^ cup sour or buttermilk.
Cream shortening; add sugar; beat well. Sift remain-
[ 254] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
ing dry ingredients. Add egg to creamed shortening and sugar, then add dry ingredients, molasses and liquid gradually, beating well. Drop from spoon on a greased pan, some distance apart, and bake in a moderate oven. These cookies spread while baking.
Ginger Cookies
For gingerbread man —
}4 cup butter or substitute. 3 teaspoons ginger.
4 cups flour. 1 teaspoon soda.
}4 cup sugar (brown or granu- }/2 cup molasses.
lated). 3^ cup milk (sour or sweet).
}/2 teaspoon cinnamon. 1 egg, beaten.
Sift flour, sugar, soda and spices. Rub in shortening, add molasses, egg and milk, mixing with a knife. Turn on a floured board and knead lightly, adding more flour if necessary. Set aside in a cool place for an hour or more, then roll and cut into shape. Bake in a moderately hot oven. If desired glossy, brush over each cookie with slightly beaten egg before baking.
Doughnuts
2 cups flour. 1 tablespoon butter.
2 teaspoons baking powder. }4 cup sugar.
yi teaspoon salt. 1 egg.
34 teaspoon nutmeg. }4 cup milk.
Cream butter, add sugar and well-beaten egg. Sift all dry ingredients and add alternately with the milk. Turn onto a floured board, roll out to )4 inch thick and cut with a doughnut cutter. Allow to stand a few minutes to stiffen the dough, then fry in hot fat until a golden brown, turn to cook on the other side, drain on paper. When cold, dredge with powdered sugar mixed with a little cinnamon.
Dropped Doughnuts
"' 3^ cup sugar. }4 teaspoon salt.
1 egg, well beaten. H teaspoon nutmeg.
3^ cup milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder.
13^ cups flour. 3^ teaspoon lemon flavoring.
Beat egg and add sugar. Sift dry ingredients, and add alternately with the milk. Add flavoring. Drop from a teaspoon into hot fat and fry until a golden brown. Drain on paper and when cool dredge with powdered sugar.
CHAPTER TWELVE
CUSTARDS SWEET SOUFFLES
HOT DESSERTS COLD DESSERTS
GELATINE DESSERTS FROZEN DESSERTS WHIPPED CREAM DESSERTS
[256] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Custards and Custard Desserts
|iLK and eggs are probably the most important foods in the diet. Either milk alone or milk and eggs constitute the diet of children and invalids and also are an important factor in the nutrition of healthy adults. The desirable qualities in milk are in no way destroyed by ordinary cooking. Whole milk con- tains all the food principles — protein, carbohydrates, water and minerals. Milk should be scalded not boiled as boiling renders it somewhat indigestible. Eggs also contain all the necessary food principles and are very easily digested if cooked at moderate heat. The combination of milk and eggs, furnish many palatable wholesome desserts. Custards are divided into two classes, the boiled or liquid custards which are steamed or cooked over hot water on top of the range; the baked or solid custard which is steamed in the oven. All custard mixtures should be set in hot water to cook and the water kept just under the boiling point. This gives the moderate heat required for all custards and pre- vents the custard reaching the boiling point. If cooked too fast or directly in a dry heat the mixture will separate and curdle. Certain rules govern the making of custards whether they are to be cooked in the oven or on top of the stove. Milk should be heated in a double boiler or over hot water, when bubbles appear on the surface the milk is scalded. Eggs shouldbe beaten slightly just enough to rnix the yolk and white. When eggs are used as a thickening medium as in custards, they are not beaten until light. Sugar is gradually added to the eggs and the hot milk poured over the egg and sugar mixture. Eggs should not be added to a hot mixture; the hot liquid should be added to the eggs, otherwise the eggs would cook as they were added to the milk and the mixture would not be smooth. The custard is now ready to steam or bake. All custard puddings, pies, etc., are first mixed in this manner. The type of custard desired depends upon the number of eggs used to each cup or half pint of milk. One egg to a cupful of milk will give a liquid custard; or two yolks of eggs will give the same results as to consistency; a custard made entirely of egg
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [257]
yolks is much richer than one made of whole eggs. Two eggs to a cupful of milk will give a solid custard if baked and served in individual custard cups. But if the custard is to be unmolded and hold its shape perfectly, it will re- quire three eggs for each cupful of milk. A custard pie filling will be firmer if three eggs are used for each cupful of milk. When custards are to be served from the dish in which they were baked two eggs to each cupful of milk is sufficient.
Junkets are a form of custard. They are very wholesome and digestible. They are made of milk thickened with ren- net. Rennet is supplied in the form of Junket Tablets. Junket desserts and custards are particularly good for children and can be given to babies who are just beginning to eat solid food.
The cooking of custards requires care especially the liquid or soft custard. It must be stirred constantly until it thickens which can be determined by a thin coating that will cling to the spoon. Remove from the fire at once, stir for a few seconds as the heat of the utensil will finish the cooking. Turn at once into a cold bowl and when partly chilled add the flavoring. If by any chance the custard has been over cooked and looks curdled pour at once into a cold bowl and beat with a rotary egg beater. This will probably restore it but it will not be quite as creamy. The inexperienced cook will find that for each cupful of milk one-half teaspoonful of corn starch may be added to the sugar; this will usually prevent separation or curdling. However the custard will not be quite so delicate. All delicate puddings made with a custard foundation or with many eggs, require a moderate heat and should be set in a pan of hot water to cook, the water being kept under the boiling point.
Soft Custard
1 egg or 2 egg yolks. ]4 cup sugar.
1 cup milk. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
Scald milk in a double boiler; beat eggs slightly .. add sugar gradually. Pour hot milk over the mixture and stir until sugar is dissolved. Then set over hot water and stir
[258] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
gently, over a low fire until custard thickens and coats the spoon. Remove from the fire at once, stir a few seconds and turn into a cold bowl. Add flavoring when partly cold. This custard is used as a sauce.
Baked Custard
4 eggs. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
2 cups milk. Nutmeg.
^ cup sugar.
Scald milk in a double boiler; beat eggs slightly, add sugar, then pour hot milk over mixture. Add vanilla and pour into custard cups or a baking dish, sprinkle top with a little nutmeg and set dish in a pan of hot water and place in a moderate oven. Bake until firm in the center which can be determined by plunging a knife through the center. If the knife comes out clean the custard is baked. Indi- vidual custards will bake in about 20 minutes. If baked in a large dish about 45 minutes.
Caramel Custard
]/2 cup granulated sugar. Baked custard recipe.
Put the dry sugar in a saucepan over a low fire and stir constantly until it forms a golden syrup. The sugar goes through several stages before it melts and great care must be taken not to burn it or there will be a bitter taste. As the sugar melts remove the pan from the fire and stir letting the heat of the pan accomplish some of the melting. This prevents the chance of burning. When sugar is melted pour into warm custard cups or baking dish. If cups are warm, the syrup can be spread before it hardens. Pour in the prepared custard and bake. The caramel forms a sauce for the custard.
Chocolate Custard
Add 3^ cup of ground chocolate to the sugar when making the custard, or melt 2 squares of unsweetened chocolate and add to the mixture. This applies to both soft and baked custards.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [259
Maple Custard
4 eggs. 2 cups milk.
3^ cup maple sugar or syrup.
Prepare as for baked custard.
Mocha Custard
4 eggs. 1 cup coffee.
]/2 cup sugar. 1 cup milk.
Prepare as for baked custard.
Cocoanut Custard
Add }^ cup of cocoanut to the baked custard recipe.
Fruit with Custard Sauce
Sliced oranges, bananas, cooked figs or prunes, make a very nice dessert if covered with a soft custard.
Cake Pudding
Slices of stale cake, macaroons or lady fingers can be served covered with a soft custard and make a most palatable dessert.
Floating Island
2 egg yolks. }i cup sugar.
1 egg. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
1]/^ cups milk.
Scald milk; beat yolks and egg slightly; gradually add sugar. Pour hot milk over mixture; stir until sugar is dissolved then cook over hot water until mixture is creamy and coats the spoon. Pour into a serving dish and add vanilla. Beat the whites of 2 eggs until stiff, gradually add 2 tablespoons of sugar. Drop by table- spoonfuls into boiling water and cook under boiling point for about 3 minutes. Remove with a skimmer and place on top of custard. Set aside to cool and just before serv- ing place a teaspoonful of red jelly or jam in the center of each island.
[260] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Prune Whip
1 cup prune pulp. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
3 egg whites. 3^ cup granulated sugar.
3^ cup chopped walnuts.
Put cooked pitted prunes through a coarse sieve. Beat whites of eggs very stifF with a whip egg-beater; fold in the sugar, prune pulp, chopped walnuts and vanilla. Pile lightly in a baking-dish and bake in a pan of hot water about 30 minutes in a rather slow oven until perfectly firm. Serve cold with whipped cream or a custard sauce made of 2 of the egg yolks. Any other cooked fruit may be used.
Apricot Souffle
3 eggs, separated. 2 tablespoons finely chopped
}i cup sugar. almonds.
1 cup cooked mashed apricots. 1 teaspoon pineapple flavoring.
Beat whites of eggs very stiff with a whip egg-beater; beat yolks with rotary egg-beater until creamy. Grad- ually add sugar to egg yolks, beat well, add apricots, nuts and flavoring. Carefully fold in the egg whites. Pile in a baking dish, set dish in a pan of hot water and bake in a moderate oven until firm in the center. Serve hot with a sauce made of the apricot juice.
Junket
2 cups milk. 1 junket tablet.
}4 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
3^ teaspoon salt.
Heat the milk to luke warm only; add sugar and salt. Crush the junket tablet, add to mixture and stir until dissolved; add vanilla (which may be omitted for young children). Pour into a serving dish and let stand in a warm place until thick. Junket is quite different from the usual form of dessert as it is kept warm in order to thicken. The rennet will not thicken the milk if it is cold or hot, it must only be luke warm. Junket may be served plain or with thin or whipped cream.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [261
Pudding of Rice and Cereals
Custard Rice Pudding
}4 cup rice. 2 eggs.
1 cup cold milk. 3^ cup scalded milk.
1 cup cold water. 1 teaspoon vanilla or grated
3^ teaspoon salt. rind and juice of lemon.
1 tablespoon butter. }4 cup sugar.
Wash rice well; put rice,. milk and water in a saucepan and cook until soft; add butter and set aside to cool. Beat eggs, add the additional >^ cup scalded milk, sugar and flavoring; combine with rice; pour into a buttered baking dish and bake slowly until firm. Pour a little melted butter over the top, sprinkle thickly with powdered sugar and return to oven to glaze. For chocolate rice pudding, add 2 tablespoons of ground chocolate and add to the mixture, omitting the flavoring.
Plain Rice Pudding
2 cups fresh milk. M cup sugar.
2 tablespoons rice. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
K teaspoon salt.
Wash rice thoroughly and drain; place in a buttered pudding dish and pour in milk. Bake in a slow oven for about 1^ hours, stirring occasionally; add remaining in- gredients and bake from }4 to \ hour longer. Do not stir after adding ingredients, but allow to become a golden brown on top.
Molded Rice Custard With Fruit
2 cups cooked rice. 3^ cup sugar.
1 cup scalded milk. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
2 eggs.
Beat eggs, add sugar and hot milk. Cook over hot water until creamy, stirring constantly; add cooked rice, mix well and turn into a buttered mold (ring mold pre- ferred). Cool, then turn on to a serving plate. Fill center with any cooked, drained fruit and place a border of fruit around bottom of mold.
1262] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Rice With Fruit
Sweeten and mash to a pulp any fresh or canned fruit. Mold rice in custard cups. Turn out and pour the fruit mixture over each one. Any of the berries, cooked prunes, canned apricots or peaches are suitable for this dish.
Sweet Rice Cakes
2 cups cold cooked rice. J^ cup sugar,
1 egg.
Beat egg, add sugar and rice. Shape into flat cakes; roll in flour and fry on a hot griddle. Serve with maple syrup or jelly.
Tapioca Cream
}4 cup pearl tapioca. 3^ cup sugar.
1 cup cold water. H teaspoon salt.
2 cups scalded milk. 1 teaspoon vanilla. 2 eggs, separated.
Soak tapioca in cold water 1 hour. Add to scalded milk and cook m a double boiler until transparent. Add 'jA the sugar and the salt. Beat eggs, add remaining sugar and add to hot mixture. Cook until thick, add stiffly beaten egg whites and pile in a serving dish.
Fig Tapioca
4 tablespoons pearl tapioca. 2 eggs.
3^ cup sugar. K cup cooked figs, chopped.
2 cups scalded milk. 3^ teaspoon vanilla.
Soak tapioca in cold water an hour. Separate eggs — beat yolks. Add sugar, then hot milk and tapioca. Cook for about 20 minutes in a double boiler. Stir in the figs and flavoring and pour into a baking dish. Beat the egg whites until stiff. Add gradually 4 tablespoons of sugar, beating well. Heap this meringue on top of the pudding and brown delicately in a very moderate oven. This should take about 8 minutes.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [263]
Cereal Pudding
2 cups milk. 2 tablespoons butter, melted.
1 cup any cooked cereal. 1 cup grated pineapple.
Yi cup sugar. 1 egg.
1 teaspoon salt. 1 inch piece stick cinnamon.
Put cinnamon in milk and allow to become hot, then remove cinnamon. Add cereal to hot milk and when boiling add sugar, salt, butter and pineapple. Add well beaten egg, cook 5 minutes. Serve hot or cold with cream or a pudding sauce.
[264] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
CORN STARCH PUDDINGS
Blanc Mange or Com Starch Pudding
lyi cups milk. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
^ cup sugar. 2 egg whites beaten stiff.
4 tablespoons com starch.
Heat milk; mix sugar and com starch thoroughly; then add the hot milk, stirring constantly until mixture thick- ens. Cook over hot water for 20 minutes, stirring con- stantly. When cooked pour hot mixture slowly over the beaten whites of eggs; add flavoring and pour into a mold which has been rinsed in cold water. Chill and serve with a custard made of the 2 egg yolks.
Chocolate Blanc Mange
Add 1/2 cup of ground chocolate to the plain corn starch recipe. Or if unsweetened chocolate is preferred melt 2 squares over hot water then add to the pudding.
Pineapple Blanc Mange
1 cup grated pineapple and }/2 cup sugar.
juice. 3 tablespoons com starch.
1 teaspoon lemon juice. 2 egg whites.
Heat pineapple; mix sugar and com starch until well blended then add to hot mixture. Stir until smooth then cook over hot water about 20 minutes. Pour over stiffly beaten egg whites. Pour into a mold and set aside to be- come firm. Unmold and serve with a custard sauce.
Orange Blanc Mange
Substitute orange juice and grated rind following the recipe for the pineapple Blanc Mange.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [265]
Cold Desserts
Chocolate Pudding Supreme
2 squares chocolate or }4 cup J^ cup milk.
ground chocolate. 2 eggs beaten separately.
}i cup sugar. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
Melt chocolate over hot water, add sugar and milk and cook in a double boiler until thick, then add beaten yolks and cook until mixture is very thick. Remove from the fire, add 1 teaspoonful of vanilla and fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites. Line a mold with waxed paper and cover the bottom with lady fingers; pour in a small portion of the chocolate mixture then line the sides with lady fingers. Pour in a layer of chocolate mixture, then a layer of lady fingers, lining the mold with a second row of lady fingers. Set aside for 8 or 10 hours to become firm. To serve turn out of mold and garnish with whipped cream, pressed through a pastry bag and serve with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with chopped maraschino cherries.
Date Pudding
^ cup sugar. 1 cup dates, stoned and cut in
2 eggs, separated. thirds.
}4 cup sifted flour. 1 cup walnuts, chopped fine.
1 teaspoon baking powder. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
K cup milk.
Beat egg yolks; gradually add sugar then add milk. Sift remaining dry ingredients and combine mixtures. Add nuts, dates and vanilla. Fold in the stiffly beaten whites of eggs. Pour into a greased pudding dish, set in a pan of hot water and bake until firm in a moderate oven Serve cold with a custard sauce or whipped cream.
Thanksgiving Pudding
2 eggs. }4 cup seeded raisins.
1 cup soft bread crumbs. H cup finely shaved citron.
}4 cup sugar. 2 cups milk. Grated rind and juice of lemon.
Mix well and bake in a moderate oven until firm in
[266] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
the center. Cool slightly, then beat the whites of 2 eggs very stifF and add 4 tablespoons of sugar gradually, beat- ing constantly. Spread the meringue on the pudding, sprinkle with granulated sugar. Put in a very slow oven to brown, about 8 minutes.
Fruit Pudding Supreme
Beat 3 eggs; add yi cup sugar and \yi cups scalded milk. Butter a pudding dish and sprinkle with sugar. Decorate the bottom of the dish with halved blanched almonds. Cut stale cake in lengths the size of lady fingers; put a layer of cake on the bottom and sides of the dish; cover the bottom layer of cake with cooked, mashed fruit; add another layer of cake, then fruit until dish is filled. Pour over egg mixture, then set in a pan of boiling water and bake in a moderate oven until firm. When cold un- mold, and serve plain or with whipped cream.
Prune Pudding— Delmonico
1 cup cooked pitted primes. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
2 cups scalding milk. For meringue : 4 level tablespoons com starch. 2 egg whites.
Yi cup sugar. 4 tablespoons sugar.
2 egg yolks. 3^ teaspoon vanilla.
1 teaspoon butter.
Put prunes with a little juice in a pudding dish. Scald milk in a double boiler; mix sugar and corn starch until well blended; add to hot milk and cook 15 minutes. Pour over the beaten yolks of eggs and mix well. Turn the custard over the prunes. Beat the egg whites until stiff; beat in gradually 2 tablespoons of sugar; fold in remain- ing sugar; add vanilla. Spread on top of pudding and bake in a very moderate oven about 8 minutes. Serve hot or cold.
Raisins and Bananas
Peel bananas and scrape off the outer stringy portion, place in a baking dish and sprinkle with lemon juice. Take ^ cup of sugar, 1^ cups of water and 1 cup seed- less raisins, cook about 5 minutes; pour over bananas, place in a moderate oven and bake until bananas are
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [267]
tender. Serve hot or cold from the dish in which they were baked.
Stuffed Peaches, Pears or Apricots
Use canned or fresh fruit. Set each half of fruit in an individual serving plate round side next to plate. Put a spoonful of raspberry jam in the center of each half. Cover the top with sweetened whipped cream or an un- cooked meringue. If canned fruit is used cook the juice down to a thick syrup, chill and pour around the fruit.
Uncooked Meringue
1 egg, white beaten until very 3 tablespoons powdered sugar, dry. H teaspoon vanilla flavoring.
To the beaten egg whites add 1 tablespoon of sugar and beat well; add 1 more tablespoon of sugar and continue beating. Then fold in the last of the sugar and the flavor- ing. Pile on top of fruit.
Fruit Cup
1 cup cooked iSgs cut into small 6 marshmallows cut in quar-
pieces. ters.
1 cup cooked or fresh peaches
cut into dice.
Mix thoroughly and let stand for at least 1 hour before serving. Garnish with whipped cream.
Cabinet Pudding
Take left-over slices of cake. Cut into finger length strips and place a layer of cake in a baking dish. Cover with a layer of raisins, then another layer of cake until dish is filled. Pour over the baked custard mixture, set in a pan of hot water and bake in a moderate oven until firm in the center.
[268] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Sweet Short Cakes
First Part: Second Part:
2 eggs. 1 cup whipping cream.
1 cup sugar. 2 tablespoons powdered sugar.
2 cups flour. Fruit. 2 teaspoons baking powder.
\^ cup milk or water. }/i cup melted shortening. 1 teaspoon vanilla. 1 teaspoon lemon.
Sift dry ingredients in first part, except sugar; beat eggs until very light, add sugar gradually, beating with egg- beater. When creamy, add dry ingredients alternately with liquid, mixing well. Add flavoring and melted short- ening. Bake in two layers in a rather hot oven. Cool. Just before serving beat cream and add sugar. Spread 3^ of the cream over one layer and cover with drained cooked fruit or sweetened berries. Place on the second layer, cover with remaining cream and arrange fruit in even rows over the top. Sprinkle with powdered sugar.
HOT PUDDINGS— STEAMED AND BAKED
The secret of light steamed pudding is having the water constantly boiling during the entire period of steaming. The water should be two-thirds the depth of the mold. A kettle of boiling water should be kept to replenish the water as it boils down. If the water in which the pudding is cooked is not constantly boiling the pudding will be heavy. Grease the mold and cover well, and dredge gener- ously with sugar. This makes the dark puddings glossy on the surface. The time allowed for steaming is approxi- mately an hour for each cupful of flour or bread crumbs used. The pudding may be tested by removing the cover after it has cooked about the required time. If it springs back when pressed in the center the pudding is cooked; if not replace cover and steam longer. Steamed or baked puddings made of a batter provide a substantial dessert.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [269]
Plum Pudding
1 cup soft bread crumbs. ^ cup flour.
1 cup finely chopped suet. Y^ teaspoon each nutmeg and
3^ cup brown sugar. cinnamon.
1 cup seeded raisins. M teaspoon cloves.
1 cup seedless raisins. Yi teaspoon salt.
Y^ cup chopped walnuts. 2 eggs, beaten well.
Y2 cup sliced citron. Y2. cup milk.
Mix bread crumbs, suet, sugar, fruits and nuts; sift flour, spices and salt. Combine mixtures, add eggs and milk. Butter a covered mold well and dredge with sugar. Have a kettle half-full of boiling water; place a rack or plate on the bottom and set the tightly covered mold on the rack and cover kettle. Keep water constantly boiling until pudding is cooked, about 2 hours. Serve with a hard or foamy sauce.
Steamed Carrot Pudding
1 cup grated raw carrots. 1 teaspoon salt.
1 cup grated raw potatoes. 1 teaspoon cinnamon.
1 cup brown sugar. Yi teaspoon cloves.
13^ cup flour. Yi teaspoon nutmeg.
1 cup seeded raisins. 1 teaspoon soda mixed with the
1 cup nuts. potato.
Y2. cup butter or substitute.
Mix and sift the dry ingredients; then mix with other ingredients in order given. Steam for 3 hours. Serve with a hot pudding sauce.
Cottage Pudding
1 egg. M cup milk or water.
Y2 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
1 cup flour. 3 tablespoons melted
1 teaspoon baking powder. shortening.
Beat egg, gradually add sugar; sift flour and baking powder and add alternately with liquid, beating until smooth. Add vanilla and melted shortening. Pour in a greased pan and bake about 15 minutes. Serve with a liquid or fruit pudding sauce.
Fruit Cobbler
Mix the batter as for cottage pudding; use any canned or quickly cooked fresh fruit to line a pudding dish, pour
[270] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
the batter over the fruit, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve with any pudding sauce or the heated fruit juice. Be sure to drain canned fruit of all the juice before pour- ing the batter over the fruit. Serve with a liquid sauce.
Steamed Pudding
1 egg. M cup milk or water.
}4 cup sugar. 2 tablespoons melted shorten-
1 cup flour. ing.
1 teaspoon baking powder. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
Sift dry ingredients; beat egg, add milk and combine ingredients. Beat to a smooth batter, add melted short- ening and vanilla. Pour in a buttered mold, cover closely and set mold on a rack or plate in a kettle of boiling water. Cover and steam about 1}4 hours. Serve with any de- sired liquid sauce.
The pudding rnay be boiled in a cloth. Grease cloth on the inside. Put in the batter, tie firmly allowing plenty of room for pudding to swell. Dredge on the outside with flour and drop in rapidly boiling water. Keep water boiling constantly and add more boiling water if needed.
Steamed Fruit Pudding
Add ^ cup of fruit to the steamed pudding recipe. Blackberries, huckleberries, loganberries, cranberries, sliced peaches or apricots, pitted prunes, raisins or chopped figs off'er a variety.
Steamed Chocolate Pudding
Add 3^ cup of ground chocolate, or 2 squares of un- sweetened chocolate, ^ teaspoon of cinnamon, and 2 tablespoons of chopped walnuts to the steamed pudding recipe.
Plain Suet Pudding
^ cup finely chopped suet. ^ teaspoon baking powder.
14 cup molasses. 3^ teaspoon each of cinnamon H cup brown sugar. and nutmeg.
1}4 cups flour. 3^ teaspoon cloves and ginger. }4 teaspoon soda.
Sift all dry ingredients, add chopped suet, molasses and milk. Mix well and pour into well greased covered moid.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [271]
Steam about \}i hours. Serve with a foamy sauce. For a fruit pudding add 1 cupful of seedless raisins.
Indian Pudding
2 cups milk. 3^ teaspoon ginger.
}/2 cup corn meal. 3^ teaspoon salt.
yi cup brown sugar. 1 tablespoon butter.
2 tablespoons molasses. 1 egg.
Scald milk, add the molasses and butter. Mix dry in- gredients and combine mixtures. Add beaten egg and pour into a greased baking dish and cook about 1 hour in a moderate oven.
Puffs
1 egg. M cup milk or water.
3^ cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla.
1 cup flour. 2 tablespoons melted shorten-
2 teaspoons baking powder. ing.
Sift dry ingredients; beat egg, add milk, combine mix- tures and beat until smooth. Add flavoring and shorten- ing. Pour into buttered custard cups and bake in a mod- erate oven. Serve with an orange or pineapple sauce. One-half cup of raisins or chopped nuts may be added and spices can replace the vanilla.
BREAD PUDDING VARIATIONS MANY AND
TEMPTING, WITH HUMBLE DESSERT
GLORIFIED
The humble bread pudding is, perhaps, the most familiar of all hot desserts. However, it is not always a popular favorite, and, sad to say, not always palat- able, because too much bread is used in its making. The bread in a bread pudding is used merely to hold the other ingredients together and to supply a back- ground for flavors, not as a means of usmg a quan- tity of dry bread. A well-made bread pudding is a very palatable dessert and is capable of an almost endless number of variations.
Remember, a pudding of this kind forms a hearty, sub-
[272] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
stantial dessert and is also easily digested. The following rules, if carefully adhered to, will enable anyone to make a delicate, smooth pudding: Always soak the bread in water, scald the milk, add other ingredients, and bake the pudding slowly. The bread must be soaked in water to produce lightness and delicacy. The milk is scalded be- cause scalded milk makes the pudding smoother than raw milk.
The pudding is baked slowly in order that the eggs and milk will not curdle, as they might if baked in too hot an oven. The bread should be soaked in the cold water to cover for 20 minutes or more. Then press out all the water and crumble the bread into small pieces. Scald the milk and add salt, sugar, shortening, the well-beaten eggs and flavoring. Pour the mixture over the bread and stir well. Pour all into a well-greased pudding dish, and bake about 40 minutes in a slow oven for a medium sized pud- ding. If the dish containing the pudding is placed in a pan of hot water and baked, there will be less danger of too much heat. All custard mixtures are better baked in this manner. The mixture will appear thin, but will thicken sufficiently when baked.
If a very thick pudding is desired more eggs may be added, or a teaspoon of cornstarch may be mixed to a thin paste with cold milk and added to the scalded milk. Use this quantity of cornstarch for each pint or two cups of milk. More bread will also thicken the pudding, but it will not be so delicate.
All of these puddings may have a meringue added and in that case use only the yolks of the eggs in the foundation recipe, reserving the white for the meringue; or use 2 egg yolks and 1 whole egg for the pudding. After the pudding is baked spread with jelly or jam and then the meringue. A well-made meringue is light and adds much in appear- ance and taste to any dessert. But a poor, tough meringue is a waste of good material.
For the bread pudding meringue use 2 egg whites, 4 tablespoons of granulated sugar, ^ teaspoon of vanilla flavoring. Eggs should be beaten until the bowl can be inverted without fear of their slipping from it; then add sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating well or until mix-
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [273]
ture will hold its shape. Flavor and spread over pudding and place on the top grate in a very moderate oven. The meringue should not begin to color for at least 5 minutes and will take 8 minutes to cook sufficiently and become a delicate brown. The meringue may be varied by adding 1 tablespoon of ground chocolate. Powdered sugar never gives as satisfactory meringue as granulated sugar.
Marshmallows may be used instead of the meringue. When the pudding is baked set 6 or 8 marshmallows on top, return to the top grate of the oven and cook until slightly melted and a golden brown. The plain bread pudding may be served with various pudding sauces. If individual puddings are liked, bake the bread pudding in custard cups or ramekins.
Custard Bread Pudding
1 thick slice of bread. 2 eggs.
2 cups scalded milk, 1 teaspoon vanilla. }4 cup sugar. Grating of nutmeg.
Soak bread in cold water to cover 15 minutes, then press dry and measure 1 cupful. Beat eggs, add sugar, hot milk, bread crumbs and flavoring. Pour into a buttered baking dish, sprinkle with nutmeg. Set in a pan of hot water and bake in a moderate oven until firm. Or, omit 1 egg for a meringue. When pudding is baked, spread with jelly or jam, add meringue and brown in a slow oven. Serve hot or cold.
Cocoanut Bread Pudding
Follow above recipe, using 1 cup of cocoanut in place of the raisins.
Butterscotch Bread Pudding
Butterscotch bread pudding is made by substituting brown sugar for the granulated sugar, using the custard bread pudding recipe. Place the brown sugar in a sauce- pan, add the butter and cook until all the sugar is melted; then add the scalded milk and stir until dissolved. The brown sugar may cause the milk to curdle slightly, but when the pudding is baked this will disappear and the pudding will be smooth and fine in texture.
[274] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Fruit Bread Pudding
Fruit bread pudding is made by adding a cup of seed- less raisins and y^ teaspoon cinnamon to custard bread pudding recipe.
Caramel Bread Pudding
Make the custard bread pudding using 1 cupful of sugar instead of ^ of a cup. Take half of the sugar and cook in a saucepan over the fire until melted and a golden brown. This will require constant stirring. When cooked add the milk very slowly and cook until carameled sugar is dissolved; then follow the foundation recipe.
Chocolate Bread Pudding
Chocolate bread pudding is made by adding 1 square of unsweetened chocolate to the milk, while it is heating or by using only ^ cup of sugar and yi cup of ground chocolate. Follow the custard bread pudding recipe.
Maple Bread Pudding
Maple bread pudding is made by substituting either maple syrup or maple sugar for the granulated sugar in the custard bread pudding recipe.
Brown Betty
3 cups finely chopped sour 3^ cup brown sugar.
apples. 2 tablespoons butter.
3 cups soft bread crumbs free Nutmeg.
from crust.
Butter a pudding dish, put in a layer of apples, sprinkle with some of the sugar, add bits of butter and a little nut- meg. Repeat until all materials are used, having last layer crumbs; dot with butter and sprinkle with sugar. Cover and bake in a hot oven until apples are tender. Uncover and brown. Serve with cream, or hard or liquid sauce.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [275]
Bread and Butter Puddings
Spread 6 half-inch slices of bread with butter. Place the slices in a baking dish with the buttered side down and sprinkle generously with raisins. Scald 2 cups of milk; beat 2 eggs, add ^ cup of sugar and pour the hot milk over the beaten egg mixture; flavor with 1 teaspoon of vanilla and pour over the bread; cover and bake in a mod- erate oven about 20 minutes. Uncover and brown. Serve with a caramel sauce.
276] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Baked Apple
A baked apple can be a real treat if properly cooked. For the best results in cooking select a rather sour apple not too ripe. If the apples are of fine flavor no other sea- soning is necessary, but if somewhat tasteless a small piece of stick cinnamon, a little freshly grated nutmeg, a few cloves, a slice of lemon or orange, any one of these flavorings may be used. A little butter adds greatly to any dish made of apples.
Be sure the core has all been removed, for it is both un- pleasant and dangerous to get a piece of the tough core in the throat.
Either granulated or brown sugar may be used to sweeten baked apples, each giving a different flavor. For variety the fruit can be stuflFed before baking with raisins and walnuts, prunes, mince meat or an uncooked custard. Or after baking the cores may be filled with jelly or orange marmalade. These are just a few suggestions for variety.
Wash and core 6 apples. You can purchase an appliance which does this work quickly and well. After apples are cored, remove a portion of the skin, about }4 inch wide, from the center of the apple. Place in a pan with a cover or in a casserole, and pour over the fruit a syrup made of 1 cup of boiling water and 1 cup of sugar boiled about 5 minutes. Cover tightly and bake in a moderate oven until apples are soft, but not broken.
Twenty-five minutes is about the time required for bak- ing medium-sized apples. Remove cover, sprinkle apples generously with sugar and place on the top grate of the oven to glaze. Baste with the syrup several times and watch closely to prevent burning. When cooked lift each apple carefully to a serving dish and pour syrup around them. Chill before serving.
If 1 or 2 apples are peeled, cored, sliced and placed around the apples while they are baking and then the syrup is strained through a fine sieve over the apples, a rich jelly should form which is even better than the apples. If desired, season with nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon.
The apples can be served plain or with cream; filled in
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [277]
the manner suggested a meringue can be made of the white of one egg beaten very stiff, adding 2 tablespoons of sugar, beating again with a few drops of vanilla. Place a spoonful on each apple, return to a moderate oven and bake about 10 minutes to a golden brown.
Glazed Apples
Remove the skin and core and cook partially over the fire in a syrup made of 1 cup of sugar and 1 cup of water for 6 apples. When apples are tender remove to a baking dish, dredge with sugar, pour the syrup around them and bake until glazed and a delicate brown.
Ginger Apples
Core and peel apples, allowing one for each service. For 6 apples make a syrup of 1 cup of sugar and 1 cup of water. Cook apples in syrup until tender, but not broken. Turn the apples while cooking and do not cover the dish, as the steam will cause them to break in pieces. When cooked, place apples, drained of syrup, in a buttered bak- ing dish, sprinkle generously with sugar and set in a mod- erate oven to glaze. In the meantime add % cup of finely chopped preserved or crystallized ginger to the remaining syrup and cook about 5 minutes. When apples are glazed and slightly colored pour over the syrup. Serve hot or cold, with or without cream.
Jellied Apples
Pare and core as many apples as there are persons to serve. For six apples make a syrup of 1 cup of sugar and 1 cup of water. Cook apples in the syrup very slowly, until they are tender, but not broken. While apples are cooking cut rounds of sponge cake a little larger than the apple. Any left-over plain cake may be used. Set a cooked apple on each slice of cake; add yi glass of jelly to the syrup the apples were cooked in; cook until melted, then pour over the apples. Cool and serve. This dish is at- tractive garnished with whipped cream, or may be served with plain cream if desired.
[278] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Apple Sauce
Peel, quarter and core apples. Slice and drop In cold water to prevent discoloration. Drain, place in a sauce- pan, cover with hot water and cook until tender. Add sugar to taste when apples are cooked and beat until smooth. The secret of a clear apple sauce is cooking with- out sugar.
Glazed Apples With Raisins
Core and peel apples. For 6 apples allow 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup of water. Cook sugar and water about 5 minutes, then add apples and cook, turning often until apples are tender but not broken. Remove apples to a baking dish. Fill the centers with seeded raisins, adding 1 teaspoon of chopped walnuts to each apple. Dredge apples gener- ously with sugar and cook in a moderate oven until well glazed. Reduce the syrup the apples were cooked in and pour that around them. To be served from the baking dish hot or cold, with or without cream. If served cold a teaspoonful of jelly can be placed on top of each apple.
Coddled Apples
Wash and core apples. For 6 apples use 1 cup of sugar and IJ/^ cups of water and a quarter section of orange peel.
Cook water and sugar until sugar is dissolved, then add orange peel and apples. Cook slowly until apples are ten- der, but not broken. Turn frequently so apples will cook evenly. When cooked remove apples to a serving dish and boil down the syrup until thick, then pour over apples. Chill and serve with plain or whipped cream.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [279
Desserts with Biscuit Dough Foundation
Note. — All measurements are level and flour is sifted once before measuring. One-half pint measuring cup is used.
Baking Powder Biscuits
2 cups flour. 1 tablespoon sugar.
4 teaspoons baking powder. 4 tablespoons shortening.
3^ teaspoon salt. % cup milk.
Sift dry ingredients; rub or chop in the shortening. Add milk gradually, using a knife. Turn on slightly floured board and roll or pat into desired shape.
Old Fasliioned Shortcake
Use baking powder biscuit recipe. Roll on floured board to fit round baking pan. Brush top with melted shortening or milk. Bake IS minutes in a hot oven. Split and spread with butter and put fruit between and on top of shortcake. Serve with or without cream.
Shortcake can be made with any of the many berries, sliced bananas, oranges or canned fruit. If strawberries are used, they should be sweetened, placed on back of range and slightly crushed.
Prune or Fruit Dumplings
Follow baking powder biscuit recipe. Roll dough as ''or biscuits, but cut m 4 inch squares. In the center of each square place one or two cooked prunes with pit removed; bring the four points of the square together at the top and press edges together. Place in greased baking pan or muffin tins and bake in a hot oven. Serve with the prune juice boiled down until thick, adding 1 teaspoon of butter or a pudding sauce. Any other fruit may be used, either cooked or raw, apples being especially good.
Orange Turnovers
Follow baking powder biscuit recipe. Roll dough to about 34 inch in thickness, then cut in 4-inch squares. Place a spoonful of orange marmalade in the center of each
[280] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
square, then fold over diagonally and press edges firmly together. Place in a slightly greased pan, brush over the top with melted shortening and bake in a quick oven. Serve with a marshmallow sauce.
Plain Fruit Cobbler
Follow baking powder biscuit recipe. Grease a shallow pan, cover bottom with fruit or berries. With uncooked fruit, sweeten and add 2 tablespoons of flour to sugar to thicken the juice. Roll out dough J^ inch thick, place on fruit, brush over dough with melted shortening and bake in a moderate oven, if fruit is uncooked, and a hot oven for cooked fruit. Serve with a vanilla sauce.
Apples are particularly good in this cobbler.
Steamed Fruit Roll
Use baking powder biscuit recipe; roll to >^ inch thick- ness, cover with jam, roll up like a jelly roll, pinching dough together where it joins at the ends, to keep in the fruit. Place on well-greased plate and steam 1 hour. Serve with a hot pudding sauce or with sugar and cream.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [281]
PASTRY DESSERTS
Bambury Tarts
1 egg, beaten. 1 sodacracker rolled to fine
1 cup finely chopped raisins. crumbs.
Yi lemon grated rind and juice. 2 tablespoons sugar .
Mix in the order named. Roll flaky pastry J^ inch thick. Cut into 4 inch squares. Place a spoonful of the Bambury mixture in the center of each square, fold over in a triangular shape, brush the edges with cold water and press together. Bake in a hot oven.
Fruit Tarts No. 1
Line patty pans with flaky pastry. Prepare ^ of the French cream filling and place a tablespoonful in each tart. Bake in a hot oven. Cool and fill with fresh berries or halves of cooked peaches, apricots or pears turned round side up. Melt a little jelly and pour over for a glaze.
Fruit Tarts No. 2
Line patty pans with flaky pastry. Fill with apple sauce or any fruit marmalade or jam. Slice apples or bananas very thin and cover the top. Bake in a hot oven.
Apple Roll
Make a flaky or plain pastry. Roll out to }/i inch thick- ness. Cover with thinly sliced apples, sprinkle with sugar and a little nutmeg and dot with bits of butter about 1 tablespoonful. Roll as for jelly roll, brush the edges with cold water and pinch together. Bake in a hot oven and serve with a hard sauce.
Baked Fruit Pudding
Cover the bottom of a buttered baking dish or casserole with fruit cooked or raw having dish about 3^ full. Make y2 of the plain pastry recipe and roll out to cover the top of the fruit. Place in a hot oven reducing heat after 10 minutes, and bake until fruit is cooked. Apples sliced thin, logan or blackberries are very good for this pudding. Canned fruit such as apricots or peaches are also good. Serve hot or cold.
282] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Gelatine desserts
With different flavors, fruits, colors and combina- tions, a great variety of attractive desserts can be made with gelatine. They are not difficult to prepare, although some of them appear quite complicated. There are a few principles to keep in mind when un- dertaking these dishes, and when these are learned, even the most elaborate gelatine dessert will become a simple undertaking. Fruit-flavored jellies are the most popular, and usually form the foundation for the various combinations. Before preparing the dessert, soak the gelatine in cold water }4 hour or more to soften it; then dissolve in hot water or the hot mixture. Do not boil the liquid after the gelatine has been added, or the jelly will be tough. Two tablespoons of granulated gelatine will stiffen 1 quart of liquid, if kept m a cool place. When fruit is added to the jelly, use less liquid or more gelatine. After the gelatine and sugar are dissolved, strain the mix- ture through a fine sieve or cheese cloth bag, and then turn into a wet mold to set
In moderate weather the jelly will be firm, in from 4 to 6 hours. The larger the proportion of gelatine to the liquid the sooner the liquid will become firm; but too much gelatine will give an unpleasant flavor and make the jelly tough. It is always wise to use the quantity of gelatine recommended by the manufacturer of the prod- uct. Directions for using arc usually printed on the package.
To mold fancy jellies, place the form in a bowl contain- ing cracked ice; have jelly cold, but not set. Pour in a layer of jelly, let set until firm, add fruit, nuts, etc., add another layer of jelly, allow that to become firm and con- tinue until all have been used; then set aside until ready to serve. To unmold, dip the form quickly into warm water (not hot), wipe perfectly dry, place a dish over the top of the mold and turn them over together. If the water is too warm the jelly will start to melt and destroy the appearance of the dessert.
From a plain fruit jelly several very simple desserts
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [283]
may be prepared. A Russian jelly is made by simply beating the cold unset liquid of any of the fruit jelly foundations to a stiff froth with an egg-beater. When almost congealed, pour into wet molds and set aside to become thoroughly chilled. This form of jelly will be light and frothy throughout. Fruits or nuts may be added to the jelly after it has almost congealed, then mold and chill. Snow pudding is made by making the Russian jelly, adding for each quart of jelly the whites of 2 eggs. Pile in a serving dish and serve with cream or a custard sauce.
Any of the plain fruit jellies or coffee jelly may be changed by using one of the methods just given.
Lemon Jelly
H box or 2 tablespoons granu- 2 cups boiling water.
lated gelatine. V/i cups sugar.
3^ cup cold water. ^ cup lemon juice.
Soak gelatine in cold water. Add sugar to boiling water and stir until dissolved, then add gelatine and stir that also until dissolved. When partly cold, add lemon juice; strain and pour into wet molds.
Orange Jelly
H box or 2 tablespoons granu- 2 cups orange juice and grated
lated gelatine. rind.
3^ cup cold water. 1 cup sugar. 1 cup boiling water.
Follow directions for making lemon jelly. Caramel Jelly
J^ box or 2 tablespoons granu- 1 cup sugar.
lated gelatine. 1 cup thin cream.
}/2 cup cold water. VA cups milk. 1 cup boiling water.
Soak the gelatine in cold water. Take }4 cup of sugar and stir in a saucepan over the fire until it is melted and turns to a golden syrup; add the boiling water and cook to a thick syrup. Let cool slightly, add gelatine, remaining yi cup of sugar and strain into the milk. Turn into wet molds and keep in a cool place to harden. Serve with a custard sauce or cream
[284] MRS. DE GRAFTS COOK BOOK
Mocha Charlotte Russe
3^ box or 1 tablespoon granu- 1 cup boiling strong coffee.
lated gelatine. 1 cup whipped cream.
\i cup cold water. 2 egg yolks.
1 cup sugar.
Soak gelatine. Add sugar to boiling coffee; when dis- solved add gelatine. Beat the egg yolks and slowly add the coffee mixture, let chill and before the mixture begins to thicken, fold in the whipped cream. Line a mold with lady fingers and when the gelatine mixture will hold in shape, pour into the mold.
Banana Charlotte Russe
2 tablespoons granulated gela- 1 lemon (juice).
tine. 1 cup mashed bananas.
Yi cup cold water, 1 cup whipping cream.
2 egg yolks. Lady fingers.
1 cup sugar. Chopped blanched almonds.
To blanch almonds, shell and cover with boiling water. Let stand 5 minutes, drain, cover with cold water and the shells can easily be removed. Scald milk, add y^ cup sugar; beat egg yolks and add remaining half cup sugar, combine mixtures and cook over hot water until mixture thickens, then add bananas and cook 5 minutes. Add lemon juice and cool, then stir until somewhat thick and fold in the whipped cream. Line a mold with lady fingers, pour in the mixture and set aside to become firm. Serve with whipped cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla.
Spanish Cream
y^ box or 2 tablespoons granu- ^ cup sugar.
lated gelatine. 2 eggs.
3 cups milk. 1 tablespoon vanilla. Yi cup cold water.
Soak gelatine. Scald the milk, add sugar and pour over the well-beaten yolks of eggs, then cook in a double boiler until slightly thickened. Add gelatine and flavor- ing and pour the mixture over the stiffly beaten egg whites. Pour into a wet mold and chill. Serve with cream.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [285]
Mock Biscuit Tortoni
1 cup scalded milk. 1 tablespoon gelatine.
1 egg. Yi cup cold water.
}/i cup sugar. 1 cup whipped cream.
1 cup macaroon crumbs. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
Soak gelatine in cold water. Beat egg, add sugar then hot milk. Cook over hot water, stirring constantly until mixture is creamy and clings to the spoon. Remove from fire, add dissolved gelatine. Set aside to cool then stir until somewhat thick. Add macaroons, vanilla and fold in the whipped cream. Pour into a wet mold and set aside to become firm. To serve unmold and garnish with sweetened whipped cream flavored with vanilla.
Orange Bavarian
2 tablespoons granulated gela- 3^ cup orange marmalade.
tine. 1 teaspoon lemon juice.
y^ cup cold water. 1 cup whipping cream.
Soak the gelatine in cold water 15 minutes then melt over hot water. Whip cream, add lemon juice and fold in the marmalade, then add dissolved gelatine and pour into a mold and set aside to become firm. Any fruit jam or mashed strained cooked fruit may replace the mar- malade. If not desired molded omit the gelatine and pile in sherbet cups.
Butter Scotch Rice Pudding
3 tablespoons butter. Y^ cup cold water.
1 cup brown sugar. 1 cup cooked rice.
2 cups hot milk. 1 cup whipping cream.
1 teaspoon vanilla.
2 tablespoons granulated gela-
tine.
Soak gelatine in cold water for 15 minutes. Put butter in a saucepan, add sugar and cook over a low fire, stirring constantly until melted; add milk and stir until sugar is dissolved. Remove from fire, add the gela- tine and set aside to cool. When beginning to thicken add rice and vanilla and fold in the whipped cream. Pour into a wet mold and set aside to become firm. Serve with a custard sauce. The stiffly beaten whites of 2 eggs may replace the cream.
[286] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Apple Snow
2 cups apple sauce. Whites of 2 eggs.
1 lemon.
2 tablespoons granulated gela-
tine, dissolved in }4 cup cold water.
Press apple sauce through a sieve. Heat to the boiling point, then add soaked gelatine and stir until well mixed and gelatine is dissolved. Chill, and when mixture begins to thicken add the stiffly beaten whites of eggs and beat until somewhat stiff. Turn into a mold and when firm unmold and serve with a custard sauce made with the yolks of the eggs.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [287]
Whipped Cream Desserts
During the summer months cold desserts make a strong appeal to the busy housewife. Cream in com- bination with berries and other fresh fruits offer a wonder- ful variety.
Desserts made of whipped cream and fruit are whole- some and very easily prepared. Cream is no more ex- pensive than other dessert materials and when one con- siders how quickly these dishes can be made, most of them requiring no cooking, and can be as plain or elaborate as one feels inclined, cream will not seem to be an extrava- gance.
Whipped cream desserts should be light and frothy and with sufficient body to hold in shape for at least several hours. In order to whip easily cream should be 36 hours old and perfectly cold. Gelatine will keep whipped cream firm, and a small quantity is usually added for this purpose, although if the cream is properly whipped and chilled this should not be necessary.
The average housekeeper does not always realize the possibilities of a small quantity of whipped cream, other- wise she would use it frequently.
A plain and simple dessert may be transformed and made quite festive with a garnish or sauce of whipped cream, besides being more palatable and wholesome. The various Charlottes and the Bavarian creams, where whipped cream forms the foundation, are usually enjoyed, and these desserts do not tax the digestion after a hearty meal, as will pastry or baked or steamed pudding.
To whip cream successfully it must be thoroughly cold and may be easily beaten with a rotary egg-beater. Heavy or double cream is very quickly whipped and care should be taken not to beat it a moment too long, or the cream will turn to butter. Also bear in mind that if the cream has not been sufficiently chilled it may turn quickly to butter, which explains the oily, heavy whipped cream frequently seen. Thin cream may be whipped in the same manner, only it will take more beating and the bowl containing the cream should be set in a pan of very cold
[288] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
water; or, better still, cracked ice. Cream will double in bulk when properly whipped, and this should be taken into consideration when buying; also provide a bowl large enough to allow for this increase, otherwise the cream cannot be easily beaten.
Results will be more satisfactory when sugar and flav- orings are added after cream has been whipped, these in- gredients being carefully folded into the cream with a spoon.
An almost endless variety of desserts may be easily and quickly made using whipped cream as the founda- tion, or as a garnish or sauce. Charlotte russe and Bavar- ian creams are not difficult to make and are elaborate enough to use for any occasion. Mousses and parfaits require freezing, but as they are not turned during the process of freezing and do not require an ice cream freezer, they are not troublesome desserts to prepare.
Fruit Bavarians
. Put sufficient canned or fresh fruit through a colander to make 2 cupfuls. Soak 2 tablespoons of granulated gelatine in ^ cup of cold water for 15 minutes, then set dish over hot water to slowly dissolve the gelatine. Add powdered sugar to fruit to taste, the amount will vary with different fruit; add dissolved gelatine to fruit and stir until well mixed and sugar is dissolved; then set bowl containing mixture in a pan of cold water and stir until it begins to thicken. Whip one cup of cream, carefully fold it into the fruit mixture, and turn into a mold which has been dipped into cold water. Set aside in a cool place to become firm. To serve turn out of mold and garnish with a sauce made of sweetened mashed fruit.
Charlotte Russe
A charlotte differs from a Bavarian cream in that it is made entirely of whipped cream with no fruit or liquid. Cover 1 tablespoon of granulated gelatine with y^ cup of cold milk and soak about 15 minutes; whip 2 cups of cream, add ^ cup of powdered sugar and a teaspoon of vanilla; set the gelatine over hot water to dissolve, then add quickly to the whipped cream, stirring rapidly in
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [289]
order to have dissolved gelatine well mixed before it cools. This is most important, otherwise the gelatine will be in thick lumps and the mixture will not thicken. Stir the cream in a pan of cracked ice, or in a cool place until it begins to thicken. Place a row of split lady fingers around the side of the mold, leaving the bottom of the mold un- covered; then pour in enough of the cream mixture to cover the lady fingers; add another row of lady fingers and then the cream, repeating until the mold is filled. By this method the lady fingers may easily be kept in place. Set aside to thoroughly chill. When ready to serve turn onto a serving plate. If you are the possessor of a pastry bag the charlotte may be made very attractive by garnishing with whipped cream forced through the bag, using a star tube. Mocha Charlotte Russe is made by adding 1 table- spoon of coffee extract to the whipped cream and using coffee instead of milk to dissolve the gelatine.
Chocolate charlotte russe is made in the same way, using 2 squares of unsweetened chocolate, melted over hot water, or 3^ cup ground chocolate added to the whipped cream. Fruit charlottes are made by molding the plain charlotte in a border mold. When ready to serve turn out and fill the center with fruit.
Marshmallow Strawberry Pudding
1 cup hulled strawberries cut 1 cup cream whipped.
in halves. }4 cup sugar.
^ cup marshmallows cut fine. 1 teaspoon vanilla extract.
Cream should be beaten very stiff, adding vanilla and sugar. Fold in strawberries and marshmallows. Fill sherbet cups or tall glasses with mixture, garnish with whole berries and serve very cold.
Cream Whips
Whip cream, sweeten and flavor with vanilla; put a generous tablespoon of any preserve, or crushed sweetened fresh fruit in sherbet cups or tall glasses; pile the whipped cream lightly on top and sprinkle with chopped nuts.
[290] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Molded Fruit Cream
Peel 4 bananas, mash and rub through a sieve; add the juice of 1 orange and a little of the grated rind, 1 table- spoon lemon juice and enough powdered sugar to sweeten.
Soak 1 tablespoon of granulated gelatine in % cup of cold water about IS minutes; then dissolve over hot water. Add to the fruit mixture, stirring rapidly. Set bowl containing mixture in a pan of cold water or cracked ice and stir until mixture begins to thicken. Whip 1 cup of cream and fold into the mixture; pour into individual molds and set aside to become firm.
Rice Dainty
IH cups cooked rice. 3^ cup powdered sugar.
1 cup grated pineapple. 1 cup whipping cream.
Carefully drain all juice from grated pineapple; add rice and sugar. Whip cream and fold into mixture. Serve very cold in sherbet or cocktail glasses. Garnish with maraschino cherries.
Surprise Charlotte Russe
Line individual or large dish with lady fingers or thin slices of sponge cake. Whip 1 cup of whipping cream; add 2 tablespoons (level) of powdered sugar and 1 tea- spoonful of vanilla. Line sides and bottom of cake-lined dish with whipped cream, place cooked or fresh sweetened fruit in the center, then cover with whipped cream. Sufficient for 3 persons.
Raisin Charlotte Russe
Soak seedless raisins in orange juice for several hours, then drain off all juice. Allow 1 cup of raisins to 1 pint of cream. Whip cream and flavor with 1 teaspoon vanilla extract; add 4 tablespoons powdered sugar and the rais- ins. Line sherbet glasses with split lady fingers or thin slices of sponge cake and put the charlotte russe in the center. Garnish the top with raisins.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [291]
Strawberry Whip
1 cup hulled strawberries. 1 egg white, unbeaten.
1 cup granulated sugar. 3^ cup whipping cream.
Put berries, sugar and white of egg in a bowl and beat with a whip egg beater until the consistency of whipped cream. This will take about 15 minutes. Fold in the whipped cream last. Chill and serve in sherbet glasses with sponge cake. Other fruits may replace strawberries.
Marshmallow Cream
Whip 1 cupful of cream, adding 2 tablespoons of sugar; fold into this % cup of chopped nuts, any kind but pea nuts; 1 cup of canned pineapple cut in cubes and drained from the juice, 1 cup of marshmallows cut fine; mix well until all is a creamy mass; other fruits may be substituted for the pineapple. Serve in sherbet cups.
[292] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Frozen Desserts
At any season of the year frozen desserts are accept- able. Most housewives depend upon the confectioner to supply their ices and ice creams, although it is quite a simple matter to prepare them at home. The trouble of making them is no greater than that of making any dessert equally as attractive and palatable; and the question of expense is small as compared with the prices charged by the best caterers, and no more than any dish requiring the same amount of eggs, milk or cream.
For example, a plain ice cream is a frozen custard or just plain table cream sweetened, flavored and frozen. With a good ice cream freezer, either ice cream or water ice may be made quickly, and has the advantage over hot desserts in that they require no attention at dinner time. Parfaits and mousses require no stirring while freezing, and this class of frozen cream is one of the best of the frozen desserts.
Ice creams and water ices may be classified as follows; Philadelphia ice cream is a thin cream, sweetened, flav- ored and frozen; French ice creams are custards of diff'erent degrees of richness frozen; Parfaits and Mousses are whipped cream, with or without eggs, and frozen without stirring; Water Ices are frozen fruits juices, sweetened with a sugar syrup, with a little gelatine added to give body to the ice and to keep it from melting when served. Sherbet is a water ice with beaten white of egg added to the mix- ture; frozen punches are water ices with liquor mixed with them before or after they are frozen.
Unless the cream is to be whipped it should be scalded, otherwise the frozen cream will have a raw taste. The scalding should be done in a double boiler and simply allow the cream to heat through; if it is boiled or cooked too long the cream will not increase in quantity when frozen.
All frozen mixtures increase in bulk during freezing, so never fill the can over two-thirds full. It is an economy of time and ice to chill the mixture before freezing. The
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [293]
texture of ices is much better when not frozen too quickly. One measure of rock salt to three measures of finely crushed ice are the proportions to use for mixtures to be stirred while freezing. The ice should be pounded in a coarse sack and should be almost as fine as the salt for the freezing process; but for packing, the water should all be drained off and the ice broken in small lumps which will not melt quickly, and very little salt is required. Too much salt will cause the mixture to thicken too quickly and the cream will be coarse and granular. Do not draw off the salt water until cream is frozen.
Creams and ices ripen or become blended by standing, so they should be made some time before serving. Water ices are the simplest form of frozen desserts. They are inexpensive, and are easily made. The sugar and water should always be boiled to a thick syrup, otherwise the ice will have a raw taste and a coarse texture.
Mousses are made of whipped cream, flavored and sweetened, then poured into a closely covered mold and packed in finely cracked ice and coarse rock salt, and left to ripen 3 hours or more. Fruit drained of all juice may be added to the cream before freezing.
These make very attractive desserts and can be pre- pared early in the day and packed in ice and allowed to stand. The pail or utensil containing the mold should be drained of water several times and the melted ice replaced with fresh cracked ice.
The accompanying recipes are all the housewife will require for water ice or ice cream. The amounts may be increased and different ingredients used, but the founda- tion principles will remain the same.
Frozen Custard or French Ice Cream
2 cups scalded milk. 2 eggs.
% cup sugar. M teaspoon salt.
1 teaspoon com starch. 2 teaspoons vanilla.
Mix sugar, salt and corn starch; add to beaten eggs. Pour hot milk over mixture. Put in a double boiler and stir constantly until mixture becomes thick enough to coat a spoon. Cool, flavor and freeze. 1 cup of thin cream may be added to the chilled custard before freezing.
[294] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
The yolks of eggs only may be used in the custard, and when cool the stiffly beaten whites may be added. To this foundation different flavorings or chopped nuts may be used.
Fruit Ice Cream
Crush 2 cups of berries and press through a puree strainer or sieve. Prepare the custard and when cool add the fruit, additional sugar if needed, and the cream whipped or plain, and freeze.
Philadelphia Ice Cream
4 cups or 1 quart of thin cream. 1 tablespoon vanilla. 1 cup sugar.
The cream should not be too thick or it may form fine particles of butter while being stirred. Scald the cream and add the sugar. When cool add flavoring and freeze. Pack and let ripen for an hour or more.
Bisque Ice Cream
Add \y2 cups of macaroon crumbs, rolled very fine, to the Philadelphia ice cream just before freezing. Pack and allow to ripen.
Chocolate Ice Cream
Add ]/2 cup of ground chocolate to the sugar of either custard or. Philadelphia ice cream.
Frozen Pudding
Shred \}4 cups mixed candied fruit and soak in orange juice for an hour. Freeze Philadelphia ice cream until it begins to thicken, add fruit, then finish freezing. Pack and allow to ripen an hour or more.
Fruit Mousses
Whip 1 pint or 2 cups of cream; add 1 cup of any fruit pulp free from juice, and add powdered sugar to taste. Pour into a mold, cover with clean paper, adjust cover and pack in equal parts of crushed ice and salt. Let stand 3 hours to ripen. Unmold to serve.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [295]
Water Ice
1 quart or 4 cups of water. 4 tablespoons cold water.
2 cups sugar. 2 cups fruit juice. 1 teaspoon gelatine. Juice of lemon.
Boil water and sugar about 15 minutes. Soak gelatine in cold water until soft, add to the hot syrup and cool; then add fruit and lemon juice and freeze. To obtain the fruit juice or crushed fruit mash the fruit and squeeze through a cheese cloth, or press through a puree strainer. Any fruit or fruit juice may be used. Pack and allow to ripen 2 hours or more.
Sherbet
Add 2 stiffly beaten egg whites to the water ice formula when partly frozen. When frozen pack and allow to ripen at least 2 hours. Crushed fruit makes the best sherbet.
Maple Mousse
1 cup maple syrup. 2 cups cream, whipped.
4 egg yolks.
Beat yolks until light and lemon colored; heat the syrup and pour over the beaten yolks. Return mixture to sauce- pan and cook, stirring constantly until thick. Cool the mixture and beat until creamy. When cold carefully fold in the whipped cream. Fill mold, cover, pack in equal parts of salt and ice and let stand at least 2 hours, while longer would be better.
Biscuit Tortoni
1 cup sugar. 1 tablespoon orange extract.
14. cup boiling water. 2 cups double cream, whipped.
3 egg yolks. 1 cup macaroon crumbs.
Boil sugar and water until soft-ball stage is reached. Pour slowly over the beaten yolks. Return to fire and cook over hot water until mixture is somewhat thick- ened; beat until cold, flavor and fold in the whipped cream. Add crumbs and pack in a mold. Pack mold in 3 parts ice to 1 of salt and let stand 2 or 3 hours to freeze.
[296] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Pineapple Parfait
1 cup pineapple juice. 1 cup grated pineapple.
% cup sugar. 1 teaspoon pistachio flavoring.
2 egg whites. 1 cup cream, whipped.
Boil the sugar and pineapple juice about 10 minutes Pour slowly over the well-beaten egg whites, using an egg-beater. Beat until cold, add the fruit, flavoring, and fold in the whipped cream. Turn into a mold, cover with paper and adjust cover. Pack in equal measures of salt and crushed ice and let stand at least 3 hours. This cream needs no stirring. The grated pineapple is used and the juice obtained by draining the fruit. The flavoring may be omitted.
Frozen Meringues
Fill meringue shells with sweetened, flavored whipped cream. Place in the freezer or any utensil with a tight cover. Pack in equal parts finely crushed ice and salt. Let stand about 2 hours.
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
JELLIES JAMS
CANNING OF VEGETABLES AND FRUIT BY THE
COLD PACK METHOD
PICKLES AND RELISHES
[298] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Jellies and Jams
N securing fruits for making jelly, always procure those which are somewhat under-ripe. The jelly- making quality in fruit is known as pectin and is present when the fruit is either ripe or just turning ripe. If the fruit is over-ripe the pectin disappears, and it will be impossible to make satisfactory jelly. This pectin is somewhat like gelatine, as it dissolves in boiling liquid and stiffens upon cooling. The fruits best suited for jelly making are currants, plums, quinces, crabapples, grapes and apples. These fruits will make a perfect jelly if not used over-ripe. Fruits in which pectin is lacking must be combined with those rich in this jelly-making quality. The novice in housekeeping usually shrinks from jelly making, but if rules are carefully studied and only a small quantity attempted at one time the process will be found very simple and the results satisfactory.
The addition of sugar to cooked fruit increases the nu- tritive value, and the cooking of the sugar at a high tem- perature, combined with the acid of the fruit, causes the inversion of the sugar, which is the first step in its diges- tion. For this reason jellies, jams and marmalades are considered one of the most wholesome forms in which to eat sugar. Children crave sweets and this desire may be gratified in wholesome jellies, jams and marmalades. Un- less combined with sugar, the actual food value of fruit is low; but the acids and salts it contains are most im- portant. They are needed to keep the blood pure. There is nothing more wholesome for children and no food the average child enjoys more than bread and jelly or mar- malade.
A good jelly should be bright in color, and clear. When removed from the glass it should retain the shape of the mold and be tender enough to quiver without breaking.
When making currant jelly use from 2 to 4 quarts of fruit for 1 utensil. A great quantity takes too long to bring to the right heat and both the color and flavor of the jelly will be impaired. Wash fruit well, remove stems and discard all that is imperfect. With watery fruits.
I
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [299]
such as grapes and currants, use no water. Cut hard fruits into small pieces and use about 3 cups of water to each pound of fruit. Cook the fruit slowly until the juice begins to flow, then crush with a wooden potato masher.
As soon as the fruit is tender remove from the fire and our into a jelly bag to drain. A pointed three-cornered ag is best, as it lets the juice drain from the corner with the pressure of the bulk of the fruit on the small end. Hang the bag so the juice may drip. When nearly all the juice has been strained through the bag may be squeezed. This last juice which has been squeezed through the jelly bag should be kept by itself as the jelly made from this juice will not be as clear as that which has been allowed to drip. If the fruit is overcooked it will produce a cloudy jelly.
Measure the juice, and for each cup allow % cup of sugar. The sugar should be placed on shallow pans and warmed slightly in the oven. Reheat the fruit juice, and when it reaches the boiling p^int add the sugar imme- diately. Cook rapidly about 5 minutes, removing scum as it appears. Long cooking will darken the jelly and tends to destroy the pectin, which will cause the finished prod- uct to be less firm.
To determine when the jelly has cooked sufficiently, drop a teaspoon of the syrup on a cold plate. If the jelly stage is reached the syrup will thicken slightly in a few seconds. Remove from the fire at once and pour into hot sterilized jelly glasses and set aside to cool. Cool as rapidly as possible to avoid dust, which will cause mould. When cold pour melted paraffine over the top, cover, store in a cool, dark, dry place.
Jelly deteriorates in color, texture and flavor if stored for a long period. When jelly is soft and syrupy, too much sugar has been used, or the syrup has not been cooked long enough after sugar was added. If tough or stringy, too little sugar has been used or the syrup was boiled after the jelly stage had been reached.
The cleaner the fruit — that is, of stems or leaves, the brighter and clearer the jelly will be. Prepare glasses be- fore making the jelly. After washing well, place glasses in a pan of cold water, set over the fire and when boiling
[300] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
point is reached allow to boil 15 minutes. Just before filling glasses with the boiling syrup set them upright in a pan of hot water, placing a thick pad of cloth in the bottom of the pan. This method of handling glasses will prevent breakage.
Strawberries need a heavier syrup for canning than other fruits, and while it is a little more expensive to make jam or preserves the process is simpler and for this particular fruit much more satisfactory. The berry sea- son is long in California but the berries are at their best in June and should be used for canning or preserving then. The old-fashioned method of making preserves and jams called for equal weights or measurements of sugar and fruit. But science has discovered that an equally satis- factory preserve can be made with only three-fourths as much sugar as fruit. The fruit is kept whole for preserves and is broken or mashed for jams.
Either method may be used. Select only sound, ripe fruit for preserving; use fine granulated sugar; measure the ingredients accurately; sterilize containers and covers, and, most important of all, preserve a small quantity at a time. Pick over fruit carefully, wash and measure. Any imperfect fruit (bruised, but not in any way spoiled) may be crushed and strained through a jelly bag and used for making the syrup. Allow one-half as much water, or juice and water, as you have berries. Use three-fourths cup of sugar for each cup of berries.
Boil the sugar and liquid 5 minutes after boiling begins. Skim, then add berries, a small quantity at a time and cook gently under the boiling point until fruit can be pierced with a fork. The berries will be somewhat trans- parent. Lift out with a skimmer or perforated spoon and put into the sterilized jars or glasses; add more fruit and repeat until all have been cooked. If much juice has drained from the fruit in the jars pour this back in the kettle and boil all the juice down about 5 minutes, then pour over the berries and set aside to cool. Do not cover or seal until cold. If fruit is sealed while hot the juice will be less thick.
Less perfect fruit may be used for jam than for pre- serves. Of course, care should be taken to exclude all
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [301]
decayed portions, but the over-ripe and somewhat bruised berries need not be discarded when preparing jam. The fruit should be carefully picked over and well washed.
Combinations of fruits make palatable jams or con- serves and sometimes chopped nuts are added.
The labor given to the preparation of jams or preserves is amply repaid in the appreciaton of the family. Jam is certainly a treat for breakfast with hot biscuits or rolls; for dinner as a relish with meat or for supper with hot buttered toast, not to mention the "between-meal" bread and jam for the children after school. The rules govern- ing the making of strawberry preserves and jam may be applied to all other fruits.
Currant or Loganberry Jelly
Pick over currants, stem and wash, discarding all the imperfect fruit. Place in a preserving kettle, crushing slightly. Cook slowly until currants are tender. Pour into the jelly bag and strain. Measure juice and reheat. When boiling point is reached add heated sugar, three- fourths cup to each cup of juice and cook rapidly about 5 minutes, when the syrup may be tested by dropping a spoonful on a cold plate. If the jelly stage is reached, re- move from the fire at once and pour into hot jelly glasses. Cool, pour melted paraffine over the top, cover and store in a cool, dry place.
Grape Jelly
Select under-ripe fruit, remove the grapes from the stems, wash and put in a preserving kettle over a slow fire and allow to simmer until the fruit is tender; then pour into a bag and drain off all the juice. For each cup of juice allow ^ cups of sugar. Heat sugar in the oven. Bring grape juice to the boiling point, then add heated sugar and let boil until a little of the syrup will jelly when dropped on a cold plate. Pour into hot glasses and cool; pour melted paraffine over the top, cover and store in a cool, dry place.
Currant and Raspberry Jelly
Use two-thirds currants to one-third raspberries and proceed as for currant jelly.
[302] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Apple Jelly
Wipe apples, remove stems and blossoms and cut in quarters. Put in a preserving kettle, cover the fruit with cold water and cook slowly until the fruit is soft. Pour into a jelly bag and drain. Measure juice and allow to boil about 20 minutes; then add the heated sugar, allow- ing three-fourths cup to each cup of juice; then boil about 5 minutes. Skim before and after adding sugar. Test and pour into hot jelly glasses. Apples may be combined with fruits which lack pectin making a satisfactory jelly.
Apple Mint Jelly
Follow apple jelly formula, adding a few leaves of mint to the apples while cooking.
Cranberry Jelly
One quart of cranberries, 2 cups of hot water. Put in a kettle, cover and cook 10 minutes. Remove cover, add 2 cups sugar and cook 10 minutes longeif. Each berry should be whole when cold and embedded in jelly.
Crabapple Jelly
Wash and stem the fruit, and, if rather large, cut in halves. Cover with boiling water and cook until tender. Pour into jelly bag and drain. Measure juice and sugar, allowing three-fourths cup of sugar to each cup of juice. Bring juice to the boiling point, add sugar; boil until syrup jellies. Pour into hot glasses; cool, and then pour melted paraffine over the top. Cover and store.
Plum Jelly
Select under-ripe plums; wash .and cover with boiling water and cook until tender; pour into jelly bag and drain. Use equal measure of sugar and juice, finishing as for other jellies.
Rhubarb Jam
Cut off ends and remove strings of skin, but do not completely peel the fruit. Cut in inch slices, measure and cover with an equal quantity of sugar. Let stand several
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [303]
hours; then cook about 30 minutes after the boiling point is reached; then allow to simmer gently for 30 minutes more. For each 5 pounds of fruit add the grated rind and juice of a lemon and y^ pound of blanched sliced almonds.
Sunshine Strawberries
Put into the preserving kettle, in layers, as many pounds of sugar as hulled, washed and drained straw- berries. When the juice is drawn out a little set over the fire to cook 20 minutes after boiling point is reached. Turn the berries into agate pans or earthenware plates, cover with panes of glass and set in the sun. Let stand 2 days, stirring 2 or 3 times each day. Store without reheating in jars or glasses. The time of cooking may be cut down to 10 minutes if the fruit is to be left in the sun a day or two longer.
Strawberry Jam
Wash and hull berries; allow ^ pound of sugar for each pound of hulled berries. Place berries in a kettle and mash. Place over a slow fire and cook slowly, stirring and mashing fruit until it is thoroughly cooked. Then add sugar and cook very slowly until mixture is thick. Watch carefully and stir frequently to avoid burning. An asbestos mat under the kettle will lessen the chance of burning. It is never advisable to make a quantity of jam at any one time. Even if you have a quantity of berries needing immediate attention it will be found much easier to make the jam in small amounts. Several small kettles of fruit can be cooked at once more quickly and with much better results than cooked in one large utensil.
Strawberry Conserve
Use equal quantities each of pineapple, strawberries and rhubarb. The pineapple is peeled, then sliced, then cut in small cubes; rhubarb is cut in small pieces without peeling. Place pineapple and rhubarb over a very slow fire without any water being added and cook slowly until the fruit is tender. Add strawberries, cook slowly, stirring and mashing frequently. When berries are cooked add the sugar, using three-fourths as much sugar as fruit.
[304] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Cook until thick. If desired a half cup of blanched shred- ded almonds may be added for each quart of conserve. Pour into sterilized glasses or jars and cool before sealing.
Plum Butter
Use plum pulp left after draining juice for jelly. Put through a coarse strainer. Use one-half as much sugar as plum pulp and simmer until sugar is dissolved.
Fig Jam
Blanch figs and remove peel. Cut in half. Add three- quarter measure of sugar for each measure of fruit. Sim- mer gently until thick. A little lemon juice can be added for flavor.
Gooseberry Jam
Stem and wash gooseberries. Mash and cook very slowly until fruit is tender. Add equal parts sugar and fruit and simmer until thick. This fruit contains so much acid that the additional sugar is required.
Peach Marmalade
Dip fruit in hot water for 2 or 3 minutes; dip in cold water, remove at once and take off peel and remove pit. Chop or slice very fine. Add three-quarters as much sugar as fruit and cook very slowly until thick. Seal in sterilized jars.
Bar le Due Currants
Use only large, firm fruit. Weigh and use an equal weight of strained honey. Heat honey, add fruit, let simmer very slowly about 5 minutes, remove the fruit with a skimmer, then cook down the syrup until thick. Pour it over the fruit and store in glasses as you would jelly.
Apple Mannalade
Wash apples, quarter, but retain skin and cores. Add a very little boiling water, just enough to prevent burn- ing. Cover and cook, stirring frequently, until soft. Press through a colander or a puree strainer. For every
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [305]
cup of pulp add three-quarters cup of sugar and the juice and grated rind of 1 lemon. Let cook over a slow fire until somewhat thickened. Remember that marmalade thickens considerably upon cooking.
Raisin and Apple Conserve
4 cups chopped apples. 1}4 cups seeded raisins.
1 lemon sliced very thin. % cup chopped walnuts.
3 cups sugar.
Mix apples, raisins and lemon and heat to the boiling point. Add sugar and cook until thick — about }4 hour. Remove from the fire, add chopped nuts, pour into hot sterilized glasses and seal as for jelly.
Golden Marmalade
(Slightly Bitter)
1 grapefruit. 10 cups cold water.
2 oranges. 10 cups sugar. 1 lemon.
Wash and dry fruit; cut into quarters without peeling then cut quarters in very thin slices. This will take a sharp knife. Discard all seeds. Cover fruit with water and let stand over night. In the morning bring slowly to the simmering point and cook until fruit is tender, at least 4 hours, longer if necessary. Let stand over night again then reheat, add sugar and cook, stirring frequently until when a spoonful is tested on a cold dish it forms a jelly. Pour in sterilized glasses, cool and cover as for jelly.
Orange Marmalade
Wash and dry fruit. Cut into quarters without peeling, then cut each quarter into the thinnest of slices. Allow 1 lemon to 6 oranges. Discard all seeds for they will make the marmalade bitter. For each cup of fruit allow 3 cups of cold water. Let stand over night then heat slowly to the simmering point and cook until the rind is tender, from 4 to 6 hours. If the rind is not tender the marmalade will not be satisfactory. Let stand over night a second time, reheat and when boiling add the sugar; allow equal
[306] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
measures of fruit and sugar. Cook rapidly until the mix- ture jellies when tested on a cold dish. If a sugar ther- mometer is used the mixture should be about 218 degrees F.
Pineapple and Orange Marmalade
1 pineapple. 1 lemon.
6 oranges.
Wash and dry oranges and lemon; cut into quarters without removing peel. Cut each quarter into very thin slices, discarding all seeds. Peel and remove "eyes" from the pineapple. Shred fruit from the core with a silver fork. Measure the fruit, allowing 3 cups of cold water for each cup of fruit. Let stand over night then bring slowly to the simmering point and cook until the orange rind is tender, 4 to 6 hours. Let stand over night again, then measure. Reheat and when boiling point is reached add the sugar, allowing an equal quantity. Let cook until the mixture thickens when tested on a cold dish.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [307]
Canning Vegetables by the Cold Pack Method
The canning of vegetables is not a complicated process. There are certain essentials for successful canning, and if these are carefully observed there is small chance for failure. Perfect sterilization is the secret of success. All ingredients should be clean and fresh, and all the utensils used should be sterilized; that is free from all mold or germs which cause or promote decay. To secure immunity from germs it is necessary to thoroughly scald and boil all containers, covers, rubbers, funnels, dippers, spoons and kettles, in fact everything which is used during the pro- cess.
The materials to be canned must be carefully picked over and thoroughly washed. An accumulation of dust, mold or decayed portions on the ingredients to be canned even if slight, will affect the result. These essentials are necessary, no matter what method of canning is used, whether by the old-fashioned open-kettle method or by the more modern cold-pack process.
There are three kinds of plant life which cause foods to spoil, mold, yeasts and bacteria, and these organisms are floating everywhere in the air. To preserve food it must be put into a condition which is free from all organ- ism and be put where these germs can not reach it. Molds are the only visible plant life and thrive in dampness and darkness. They grow more frequently where acid is present, so are more often found on tomatoes or fruits. The invisible spores causing molds are in the air every- where and develop upon foods which are left exposed. Moist heat will kill molds, so the method of sterilizing food in jars or cans and sealing at once prevents trouble with mold. Yeast is abundant in the air and on the sur- face of fruit and vegetables. When canned food ferments, yeast is present. Moist heat at the simmering point will usually kill all yeasts.
Bacteria are not so easily destroyed as molds and yeasts and can only be killed by subjecting them to a
[308] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
moist heat at the boiling point for different lengths of time. Experience has proved that when the vegetables are sterilized until thoroughly cooked they are usually ready to seal and all organisms killed. Very little loss has followed this rule where the vegetables were in good con- dition and not withered or old. Only young, tender, fresh vegetables can be successfully canned.
For the cold pack method of canning the food is cooked in the jars until sterilized. This is called processing. When processing is complete the jars or containers must be sealed immediately to prevent the entrance of germs. Vegetables require a much longer period of sterilization than fruits. The cold-pack method requires five pro- cesses: Scalding or blanching, cold dipping, packing in jars, sterilizing and sealing.
Scalding or blanching consists of plunging the fruit or vegetables into boiling water for a short time. The in- gredients should be placed in a wire basket or a square of cheese cloth. This process gives the food a more thorough cleansing; makes peeling, when necessary, an easy matter; improves the texture and produces a clearer liquid. Be- sides all this it shrinks either fruits or vegetables, making them more flexible and much easier to pack solid in the jars. The length of time for blanching depends upon the age of the food.
Cold dipping is placing the vegetable for an instant only into cold water. This makes the food crisp and further aids in shrinkage; also preserves color and flavor.
The food is then packed as closely as possible in the sterilized jars. Cover the vegetables (except tomatoes) to overflowing with boiling water and allow a teaspoon of salt to each quart jar of vegetables.
Cleanse rubbers by standing for a minute in boiling water, allowing 1 teaspoon soda for each quart of water. Adjust rubber, then screw top partially on jar. If using a glass top jar with wire clamp place the cover on and raise both clamps. The upper one will hold the top in place. Place the jars on a rack in a boiler or deep kettle. Have water about the temperature of the jars and fill boiler to about 2 inches of the tops of the jars. Cover the boiler to keep in the steam and count the time for
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [309]
processing from the time the water begins to boil and keep constantly at the boiling point the required length of time.
At the end of this time lift jars from the water, tighten the covers securely at once. Return to the hot water, this time completely submerging them for 10 minutes. Lift from the water, tighten covers again and cool, avoiding a draft which might cause the jars to crack. Inverting the jars will be a final test as to whether there is a possible leak.
Store in a cool, dry, dark place. Tomatoes, peas, lima beans and corn are greatly improved by adding a teaspoon of sugar to each pint of vegetables, adding the sugar and salt at the same time.
Rubber rings should be new each season. To open a jar of food easily, immerse the cover in warm water and gradually add boiling water, letting jars stand a few min- utes; then remove and cover can easily be removed.
In the following recipes no definite period is given for sterilizing the vegetables. When cooked through, or suitable for serving, they are ready to seal, or the food may be tested to see if it is cooked. Be sure this jar is filled to overflowing with boiling water before resealing. The time for processing depends upon the age of the product, and time tables usually apply to fresh, tender products.
The following table may be used as a guide:
Vegetables Blanching Cooking
Asparagus 5 to 10 min 2 hours
Peas 8 minutes 3 hours
String Beans 8 minutes 2 hours
Lima Beans 5 to 10 min 3 hours
Beets 5 to 10 min 2 hours
Corn 5 to 10 min 4 hours
Peppers 5 to 10 min 2 hours
Tomatoes 1>^ minutes 20 min.
String Beans
Remove the stems and strings from tender fresh beans; cut in two if desired. Blanch from 5 to 8 minutes, or until
[310] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
the pod will bend without breaking; then plunge in cold water for an instant. Drain, pack quickly into a jar, add salt and cover to overflowing with boiling water; adjust rubbers and covers. Place jars on racks in boiler, cover to within one inch of top with warm water; cover boiler, and when water reaches the boiling point sterilize about \}4 hours, keeping water continuously boiling. This recipe also applies to wax beans and green lima beans. When cooked remove and adjust covers.
Asparagus
Asparagus for canning must be fresh. Wash, cut the proper length for jars, scrape off tough outer skin and tie m bundles. Blanch by immersing the lower ends in boil- ing water for 3 minutes; then lower all and blanch 1 to 2 minutes longer. Plunge into cold water, then pack in jars. Add salt, fill to overflowing with boiling water; place on rack in boiler and cover to 1 inch of top with warm water. Cover boiler, and when water boils cook about \y2 hours, keeping water constantly boiling. Re- move from boiler and adjust covers.
Peas
Peas should be canned as soon as shelled. Blanch from 1 to 4 minutes in boiling water. Dip in cold water for an instant, adding 1 teaspoon of salt to each quart of water. Drain and pack to j^ inch of top of jar, add 1 teaspoon each of sugar and salt for each pint jar, cover with boiling water, and adjust rubbers and covers. Place on rack in boiler, cover with warm water to within 1 inch of top. Cover boiler, bring to boiling point and cook about 1>^ hours or until tender. Remove from boiler and adjust covers.
Tomatoes
Select firm tomatoes of uniform size. Blanch for 1 min- ute, dip into cold water and remove skins quickly and pack closely into jars. Add salt, and fill jars with hot strained tomatoes. Adjust rubbers and covers, place in boiler, cover with warm water to within 1 inch of the top of jars. Cover boiler and when boiling point is reached
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [311]
cook about 15 minutes. Remove from boiler and adjust covers.
Lima Beans
Lima beans should be canned as soon as shelled. Blanch from 1 to 4 minutes, depending on the age of the beans. Dip in cold water for an instant, adding a teaspoon of salt to each quart of cold water. Drain and pack beans to within yi inch of the top of jar; add salt, cover to over- flowing with boiling water. Adjust rubbers and covers; place in boiler; cover to within an inch of top of jars with warm water; cover boiler and when boiling point is reached cook about an hour or until tender. One jar may be tested, then put back and sterilized before sealing. When cooked, remove and adjust covers.
312] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Canning Fruit
Fruit for canning should be ripe and fresh for the best results. Over-ripe fruit is difficult to sterilize.
By the cold pack method the fruit is placed in the jar and all cooking or sterilization is done in the jar. In this way all bacteria is destroyed and as the jar is not opened again until the fruit is required for use, no bacteria can enter, providing the jars and covers are perfect, and the jar completely sealed. If air can enter the jar the food will mold and spoil.
All fruits except berries are blanched for the cold-pack method of canning. By blanching is meant immersing fruit in a pan of hot water for a certain period, the length of time depending upon the type of fruit.
Blanching gives a thorough cleansing, loosens the skin, improves the tecture and shrinks the product. After blanching the fruit is immediately dipped in cold water. This hardens the pulp under the skin, making it easy to remove the skin, leaves the fruit firm and sets the color. It also enables handling of the fruit at once so that it may easily be packed into jars. Do not allow the fruit to remain in the cold water; dip it in and then remove at once. Peel and pack into jars immediately. It is necessary to handle the fruit rapidly at this stage. Many failures in canning can be traced to allowing the fruit to stand after blanching instead of packing in jars at once. It can easily be understood why it is both easier and better in every way to blanch only a small quantity of fruit at a time. It is necessary to exercise judgment as to the length of time required for blanching, as the condition of the fruit will govern that somewhat.
The time tables which will follow this article can be followed exactly if the fruit is fresh and in perfect condi- tion. The time for blanching fruits is much easier to determine than that for vegetables.
After packing the fruit in the jar, fill to one-fourth inch of the top with hot syrup, adjust the rubbers and place the covers in position. Do not seal completely. Leave the clamp up, if glass top jars are used; for screw-top jars
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [313]
do not screw down entirely. The tops of the jars should be tight enough to fit down so that no water can seep into the jar, but not be so tight that they can be forced off by the expanding process.
The density of the syrup may be varied according to the variety of fruit used, but a general rule which may be used for all fruit canning is: Three parts sugar to two parts water; boil down to a thin syrup; very sour fruits may need a heavier syrup. Use any kettle in which a rack may be placed so that the jars will be at least >^ inch above the bottom, and deep enough for the water to come 1 inch above the tops of the jars. The water must come above the jars in order to prevent the liquid inside the jars boiling out in the form of steam. The water from the boiler will not get into the jars, as all force is outward, not inward. Jars not completely filled with fruit will keep perfectly because the remaining air in the jar will be completely sterilized by the processing or cooking.
Do not count the length of time for cooking until the water is actually boiling. It is the boiling temperature that does the sterilizing.
The quality of jar used plays an important part in successful results of canning. This does not mean the type of jar. Select any style you fancy, but be sure there are no flaws. The jars, and covers also, should be per- fectly smooth where the two come together; there should be no cracks, rough edges or chipped spots.
Jar covers must fit so tight that there is no possible chance of a leak after the jar is sealed. Thorough steri- lization is a necessity both for jars and covers. Wash jars in warm soapy water; rinse well, then put into a pan of cold water and bring slowly to the boiling point, and boil not less than 5 minutes. Allow jars to stand in the boiling water until ready to fill. Covers my be dropped into boiling water a few minutes before required. Another very important point is to have new rubbers each time a jar is used. It is false economy to use old rubbers.
In order to withstand the boiling during the period of cooking the fruit for the cold-pack method, rubbers must be firm and elastic. Sterilize rubbers by covering with
[314] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
boiling water, then dry in a clean cloth and use at once. The essential point is to kill all bacteria by heat, so every- thing that comes in contact with food to be canned must be sterilized by boiling.
When the fruit has cooked the required time take jars from the boiler and seal tightly at once. Invert jars and let stand until cool. If there should be a flaw in a jar or cover it will be discovered if the jar is allowed to cool inverted. Set the jars in a cool place, but be careful not to let a draft of cold air strike them while cooling or they might crack. Also keep plenty of space between jars so that there will be a free circulation of air. Store fruit in a cool, dry, dark place.
Use only perfect fruit for canning. The bruised, over- ripe fruit may be used for jam. Of course, this does not mean fruit that is in any way decayed.
The cold-pack method described is by far the simplest and most satisfactory way to can food. The following tables, which are universally used, will be helpful to the home canner: Fruits Blanching Cooking
Apricots 1 to 2 minutes 16 min.
Peaches 2 minutes 16 min.
Pears 1>^ minutes 20 min.
Figs 3 minutes 16 min.
All Berries No blanching 20 min.
Grapes No blanching 16 min.
Cherries. No blanching 16 min.
Apples 1>^ minutes 20 min
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [315]
PICKLES AND RELISHES
Pickles and relishes are not classed as strictly hygienic foods, but as the home-made products are undoubtedly pure, there really seems no reason why these foods should not be used in moderation. To make pickles quite harm- less as well as palatable, care must be taken to have the vinegar absolutely pure. Either malt or a white wine vine- gar may be used. Brine in which articles for pickles are to be stored should be strong enough to hold up an egg. A pint or 2 cups of salt to 1 gallon of water will usually be found the right proportion.
Vegetables for pickling are only to remain over night in a brine; 1 cup of salt to 1 gallon of water is sufficient. Articles to be pickled lose some of their crispness if scalded, but they will absorb the vinegar more easily.
Pickles stored in stoneware jars will keep for months if the vinegar and spices are of good quality; or they may be packed in fruit jars. Spices and horseradish are an aid in keeping pickles in good condition. And green or red pep- pers w^ill give a better flavor than peppercorns.
When removing pickles from the jar use a wooden, porcelain or agate spoon or ladle, as the vinegar attacks metal, causing dangerous compounds.
A spiced vinegar is excellent for any kind of pickles. It may be prepared by boiling 1 quart of vinegar with 1 ounce each of cloves, allspice, gmger, mace, bay leaves and chopped red pepper. Cool before using.
Vinegar should always be just boiled up, either with or without the spices, then allowed to cool before using. Raw vinegar never gives the same mellow flavor as that obtained when the vinegar is scalded.
Sugar has a tendency to harden fruits and vegetables, and too heavy a syrup may toughen and spoil fruit made into sweet pickles. Some varieties of peaches and all melons should be cooked tender in water before the pick- ling syrup is added to them.
Pickled Cantaloupe or Watermelon Peel the fruit, cut into strips, cover with cold water.
[316] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
adding 1 tablespoon salt to each 2 quarts of water and boil gently until very tender, then drain well and pack in sterilized jars.
Boil vinegar enough to cover the fruit, adding 2 table- spoons of sugar for each quart of vinegar and 2 table- spoons of whole mixed spices tied in a muslin bag. Let the spices and vinegar boil for 10 minutes, then pour over the fruit in the jars until overflowing. Seal tightly and store in a cool place.
Sweet Pickled Pears
Cut 6 or 8 medium-sized pears in halves, remove core and press 1 or 2 cloves into each half-pear. Put yi cup of vinegar, 3 inch piece of cinnamon bark, broken in small pieces, and 2 cups of brown sugar in a saucepan over the fire.
When boiling point is reached, add several pieces of the pears and cook until tender, but not broken. Place in a sterilized jar and when all are cooked fill jar to overflowing with the syrup, adjust rubber and covers, and set aside in a cool place. The amount given above is for a 1 quart jar. This recipe also applies to peaches, except that for this fruit the peel should be removed.
Pickled String Beans
Remove ends and strings from beans, but keep them full length. Cover with boiling water and cook about 15 minutes; drain, rinse in cold water and drain again.
Pour over them scalding hot vinegar enough to cover. These beans will be ready to serve in 24 hours.
Sour Cucumber Pickles
Select small cucumbers, wash, sprinkle with salt and cover with cold water. IJse 1 cup of salt for each gallon of water.
Allow to stand over-night or about 12 to 14 hours, then rinse and pack in fruit jars or crocks. Add green or red peppers, also whole spices. Cover with scalding vinegar. If using fruit jars, sterilize and seal carefully. If stored in an earthenware crock, place a plate with a weight on
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [317]
top to keep the pickles in the vinegar, then cover the jar. These pickles should keep almost indefinitely.
Ginger root, horseradish and mustard seeds may be added to the hot vinegar.
Sweet Cucumber Pickles
Prepare as for sour pickles, adding sugar to taste to the hot vinegar.
Piccalilli
4 cups green tomatoes. % cup salt.
2 cups red tomatoes. 4 cups vinegar.
Yi small cabbage. 4 cups brown sugar.
2 onions. 1 teaspoon mustard. 1 green pepper. 1 teaspoon pepper.
1 small red pepper. 1 teaspoon celery seed.
3 cucmnbers. 1 teaspoon mustard seed.
Chop the vegetables, cover with salt, and allow to stand over night. Drain and press in a cloth to remove all liquid; add vinegar, sugar and spices and let simmer until clear. This will take about an hour. Store in hot sterilized jars. Canned tomatoes may be used instead of the green ones.
Chilli Sauce
12 ripe tomatoes. 3 tablespoons sugar.
H teaspoon pepper. 2 tablespoons salt.
3 onions. 2 cups vinegar.
3 green peppers. 1 teaspoon cinnamon.
Peel tomatoes and onions and chop all vegetables separately very fine. Combine ingredients and cook slowly about an hour and a half. Two quarts of canned tomatoes may replace the raw ones. If liked highly sea- soned, little red chili peppers may be added.
Tomato Catsup
4 cups cooked tomatoes. H teaspoon pepper.
1 tablespoon salt. Yi teaspoon each cinnamon,
1 onion grated. cloves and nutmeg.
2 tablespoons sugar. % cup vinegar.
Combine and cook slowly until thick. Put through a sieve, reheat and bottle. If liked a clove of garlic may be added to the catsup.
[318] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Dill Pickles
Fill a jar with small cucumbers. Between them place a small piece of dill. For each jar add 1 tablespoon salt.
Pour cold water over the pickles, place a piece of dill on top and seal tightly as for canned fruit. Place in a warm place or in the sun until the liquid becomes cloudy. Then it will become clear again and by that time the pickles are ready for use.
Mustard Pickles
4 cups small cucumbers. 6 large green peppers.
4 cups small onions. 1 head cauliflower.
1 green tomato. 3 stalks celery.
Cut in suitable pieces and soak in weak salt water 24 hours. Then cook in same water until tender and drain. Make a dressing of
6 level tablespoons ground 1 cup flour,
mustard. 2 quarts vinegar.
VA cups sugar.
Mix dry ingredients, add vinegar slowly. Cook in double boiler until thick. Pour over pickles and seal in jars.
Apple Chutney
Pare, core and cut in quarters about a dozen very sour apples. Peel and slice 3 medium-sized onions; chop fine or put through the food chopper 1 pound of seeded rais- ins. Mix these ingredients and add 3 cups of cider vine- gar in which }^ cup of salt and 4 cups of sugar have been dissolved. In a cheese cloth bag tie 1 tablespoon each of mustard seed, whole cloves and small dried chili peppers. Cook all together over a slow fire until the apple and onions are tender and the chutney is a rich brown color. Seal in sterilized bottles.
Spiced Apples
Peel, core and quarter 4 cooking apples; prepare a syrup of 2 cups of sugar, 1 cup of water and 1>^ cups of vinegar; add to this whole spices, tied in a cheese cloth; cloves and cinnamon will be sufficient. Cook until sugar is dissolved, add apples and cook until transparent, but not broken. Chill thoroughly before serving. These will take the place of spiced peaches. To be served as a relish.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
HOLIDAY DINNERS
MIDNIGHT SUPPERS
CHAFING DISH NOVELTIES
CAMP COOKERY
PICINIC LUNCH
SANDWICHES
CANDIES
3201 MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Holiday Dinners
|hen arranging the holiday menu, plan so that it will be possible to prepare many of the dishes a day or two in advance. Christmas and Thanks- giving are family gathering days. Try to man- age so that the family and guests will not feel that the dinner has been too great an effort for the person who prepared the menu.
There are so many things which may be prepared some time in advance. The mince meat and plum pudding are improved with age. Pumpkin may be steamed and sealed, while hot, in jars as any canned fruit, or the canned pumpkin may be purchased ready for use. The mayon- naise can be prepared and set aside in a covered jar. Salted nuts and those needed for salad can also be pre- pared. The day before Christmas clean and prepare the turkey or chicken, but do not wash until just before cook- ing or the flavor will be impaired. The dressing can be made and set aside in a covered bowl. It is a very easy task to wash the bird and add stuffing just before putting in the oven. Simmer the liver, heart and gizzard in enough water to cover, until tender. Drain, chop very fine, add the liquid they were cooked in and set aside for the gravy.
Pastry may be made for pies, and if the pies are to be reheated they may be completed a day in advance.
If vegetables are to be freshly cooked, wash them, but do not remove peel or let them stand very long in cold water before cooking as much of the valuable mineral salts would be lost. If the vegetables are to be reheated in a sauce or in fritters, they may be cooked and set aside until needed.
Other meats may easily be substituted for those called for in the following menus. Chicken may be roasted in- stead of turkey; a chicken pie or fricassee will be found appetizing. A crown roast of pork or lamb is very de- licious as well as attractive; roast leg of lamb boned and stuffed; roast goose or duck. Turkey is sometimes almost prohibitive in price, which makes it necessary for many
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [321]
families to forego the traditional Christmas and Thanks- giving dinner.
When planning the holiday dinner, do not forget that the turkey is the piece de resistance and do not have too many courses to precede the main one or the appetite will be satisfied before the turkey appears.
Holiday Menus
1
California Oyster Cocktail
Salted Almonds Olives Celery
Sweetbread Patties
Roast Turkey, Oyster Dressing
Giblet Sauce Cranberry Frappe
Succotash Baked Squash
Candied Sweet Potatoes
Waldorf Salad
Plum Pudding, Hard Sauce
Cheese Crackers
CofFee
2
Fruit Cocktail
Ripe Olives Stuffed Celery
Creamed Sweetbreads in Ramekins
Roast Turkey, Chestnut Dressing
Giblet Sauce Cranberry Jelly
Caramel Sweet Potatoes
Stuffed Onions Molded Spinach
Pumpkin Pie with Whipped Cream Raisins Nuts Mints
CofFee
[322] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
3
Fruit Cocktail
Consomme
Creamed Shrimp in Timbale Cases
Roast Chicken, Celery Dressing
Giblet Sauce
Spiced Apples Currant Jelly
Mashed Potatoes Onions, au Gratin
Stuffed Tomato Salad
Chocolate Pudding
Mints Assorted Nuts
Coffee
4
Crabflake Cocktail Salted Almonds Chow Chow
Baked Ham Brown Sauce
Glaced Potatoes Corn Fritters
Spinach Souffle Creamed Celery
Tomato Jelly Salad
Mock Biscuit Tortoni
Lady Fingers
Mints Coffee Raisins
5
Grape Fruit Cocktail
Green Olives Salted Almonds
Chicken Pie en Casserole
Currant Jelly
Mashed Potatoes Onions in Cream
Baked Cream Squash Stuffed Tomato Salad
Thanksgiving Pudding Mints Coffee Raisins
Shrimp Cocktail Louis Curled Celery Spiced Prunes Salted Nuts
Roast Leg of Pork Glazed Apples
Caramel Sweet Potatoes Cauliflower au Gratin
Combination Fruit Salad French Dressing
Mince and Pumpkin Pie Coffee Mints
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [323]
SUGGESTIONS FOR THE MIDNIGHT SUPPER; A
SERIES OF RECIPES FOR AFTER
THEATER OR PARTY
The late supper is usually a meal of luxury, not at all a necessity; in fact, we would be much better ofF if we did not indulge in rich food before retiring. But refreshments offer a pleasing way to extend hospitality and the hostess usually takes pride in her ability to exhibit her skill in providing a tempting supper.
This additional meal must not be too heavy, not have too great a variety of dishes; it should be carefully planned, well cooked and daintily served. If one is the proud possessor of a chafing dish the main course may be pre- pared at the table. As this type of cookery takes place before an audience, it requires planning; all necessary preparatory cooking should be done in advance; the in- gredients all assembled and measured before being placed on the table. If this is all arranged ahead of time, the actual cooking is not difficult. However, if preferred, the food may be cooked just before the guests are called to the table and then served from the chafing dish.
Creamed fish or chicken dishes are easily made and suitable for these late suppers. They are rather sub- stantial and should be followed by a very light sw^eet course, preferably fruit in some form.
A considerable part of chafing dish cookery depends upon the preparation of sauces and it is essential that one first master the art of making savory sauces before at- tempting any great variety of chafing dish cookery. For those persons who do not possess a chafing dish the food may be cooked on the stove or over hot water.
If numbers are too numerous for a hot course, sand- wiches are always acceptable and may be of many varie- ties. Sandwiches should be made of bread not too fresh to cut well; nor so old that it is dry; they should be soft but not moist. If meat is used it is much better chopped fine and mixed to a paste with cream, softened butter or very thick mayonnaise. If this is not desired than cut the meat in very thin slices, and cut each slice in several
[324] MRS- DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
pieces, place on buttered bread and season before cover- ing with the second slice of bread. It is never desirable to use large slices of meat, even if cut very thin, because it is difficult to eat gracefully. Always cream the butter well to spread on sandwiches. It will then spread easily and the merest suggestion of butter is all that is necessary.
Cheese dishes are usually relished by the majority of persons and there are numerous ways in which cheese can be used to supply the main ingredient. If cheese is com- bined with other foods, such as in sauces, and cooked only long enough to melt, it will not be found harder to digest than many other popular dishes.
However, as cheese is a highly concentrated food, use only enough for flavor, and the best results are obtained by grating.
Most of the hot dishes used for late suppers are also suitable for luncheon dishes.
Salad is always popular. Its presence at any meal is welcome and for the m aidless household it offers a very easy course for the midnight supper. Accompanied by rolls (reheated) or freshly baked biscuits, almost any variety of salad will be relished. The essentials are to be able to make a well-seasoned salad dressing and to serve the salad cold.
If meat or poultry is to be used for the salad, it should be cut into dice (not chopped) and mixed with a well- seasoned French dressing for several hours before being combined with the remaining salad ingredients. Use only enough of the dressing to season the meat. Fish should be flaked and treated in the same manner.
All combinations of fruit are palatable in a salad. Regardless of what type of dressing is to be used, a little lemon juice should always be added to a fruit salad. Mix fruits lightly with a silver fork and chill thoroughly be- fore serving.
From a hygienic standpoint the late supper is hardly to be encouraged; however, this will have to be deter- mined by the individual. And in order to overcome the possibility of an unpleasant aftermath keep this extra meal as simple as possible. If the main course is to be rich in sauces or cheese, do not plan an elaborate dessert,
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [325]
but keep to fruits and attractive light but not nutritious desserts. Fruit cocktails are always refreshing and may be used as dessert for the late supper. For that matter the informal supper does not demand a sweet course. Or the sweet course, if rich with cream in any form, and served with little cakes and a beverage, may constitute the entire supper. It is not the variety that makes a de- lightful supper party, but the daintiness of table and ser- vice, the excellence of the food that is offered and the general informality of the occasion. Above all, if one is both hostess and maid, plan dishes that can be prepared in advance. Keep everything simple, for nothing so mars the enjoyment of guests than to be conscious of a very busy hostess.
Cream Cheese and Pineapple Salad
Arrange slices of pineapple on crisp lettuce leaves. Press cottage or cream cheese through a potato ricer. Place on top of pineapple and place a spoonful of thick mayonnaise on top of cheese.
Crab Meat Louis
For each cup of crab allow >^ cup of thick mayonnaise. To each cup of dressing add 3^ cup of chili sauce, 1 table- spoon of shredded pimento, 1 teaspoon onion juice. Arrange crab on crisp lettuce leaves or place in cocktail glasses. Pour the Louis dressing over the crab and gar- nish with stuffed olives.
Casaba Melon Salad
Cut casaba melon into balls with a French potato cutter or cut into cubes. Peel and seed an equal quantity ^f white grapes; add to melon, arrange in crisp lettuce leaves, pour over all a French dressing, then sprinkle the top with cottage or white cream cheese which has been pressed through a potato ricer.
[326] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Oyster Poulette
1 cup oyster liquor. K teaspoon pepper.
1 cup thin cream. 2 cups oysters.
4 egg yollts or 2 whole eggs. Grating of nutmeg. #" ]/2 teaspoon salt. i
Heat oysters to boiling point in the oyster liquor (chicken stock may be used). Beat the eggs, add the cream and stir into the hot mixture. Cook over hot water until the sauce thickens. Add seasonings and serve. A cup of mushroom caps may be added just before the eggs.
English Monkey
1 cup milk. 1 cup cheese cut in cubes or
1 egg. grated.
1 cup soft bread crumbs. J^ teaspoon salt.
1 tablespoon butter. Paprika.
Heat milk and bread crumbs. When hot add beaten egg, seasoning and cheese, stirring until the cheese is melted. Serve on toast or crackers.
Curried Eggs
4 hard-cooked eggs. 1 teaspoon curry powder.
1 cup well-seasoned, medium 1 teaspoon lemon juice, white sauce. 1 tablespoon onion juice.
Add curry powder to flour when preparing white sauce. Cut eggs in quarters and pour sauce over them. Serve at once. White fish, oysters, lobster, crab or shrimp may be prepared in the same manner. Any well-seasoned stock or oyster liquor may replace milk in making the white sauce.
Eggs and Mushrooms
1 cup tomato sauce. Pepper.
1 cup mushrooms (fresh or 1 teaspoon Worchestershire
canned). sauce.
]4, teaspoon salt. 4 eggs.
Simmer the mushrooms in the tomato sauce until ten- der; add seasonings and the eggs which have been broken in a bowl but not beaten. Stir gently with a fork until eggs are cooked. Serve on toast. Allow an egg for each person and additional sauce proportionately.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [327]
Welsh Rarebit
1 cup cheese, grated. Paprika.
}/2 teaspoon salt. 2 tablespoons butter.
1 teaspoon mustard. 2 tablespoons flour.
1 teaspoon Worcestershire 1 cup cold milk, sauce.
Melt butter; remove from fire; add flour, also mustard, salt, paprika. Stir until well blended, then return to fire and cook until frothy. Add cold milk and stir until some- what thickened; add cheese and stir until melted. Do not allow this mixture to boil after cheese is added. Serve on slices of bread toasted on one side only, pouring the mix- ture over the untoasted side. Sprinkle generously with paprika and serve at once.
Lobster Wiggle
1 cup lobster. 1 teaspoon lemon juice.
1 cup peas. )4, teaspoon salt.
1 cup thin milk or cream. Dash of red pepper.
2 tablespoons flour. ]/i teaspoon chopped parsley. 2 tablespoons butter.
Melt butter; add flour, mix until smooth, then cook until frothy and add milk; add the seasonings. Stir until creamy, then add the lobster and cooked peas and cook 1 minute. Serve hot on buttered toast.
Scotch-Woodcock
One cup well-seasoned medium white sauce, to this add 2 tablespoons of essence of anchovies or anchovy paste, and 4 hard cooked eggs cut into quarters. Pour over toast and serve.
Chicken a la King
1 cup chicken broth. 3 cups cooked chicken.
1 cup rich milk or thin cream. 4 egg yolks or 2 whole eggs.
2 level tablespoons butter. J^ green pepper, shredded. 2 level tablespoons flour. ^ pimento, shredded.
3^ teaspoon salt. 1 cup mushroom caps.
3^ teaspoon pepper. 1 teaspoon lemon juice.
Melt butter, add mushrooms and shredded green pep- per and cook about 5 minutes over a slow fire so the butter will not burn; add flour and seasonings, mix well, then add cold chicken stock and milk, stir constantly until
[328] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
creamy. Set dish over hot water, add chicken sliced or cut in cubes, and pimento; let cook until hot, then add well- beaten eggs and seasonings. Serve on toast or in ramekins or Swedish timbale cases.
Toasted Cheese Sandwiches
Cut rounds from white bread with a cooky cutter and spread with butter that has been creamed enough to soften it. Grate cheese over the slices and sprinkle with paprika. Put 2 rounds together and brown in the oven until crisp.
Oyster Scallop
2 cups cooked rice. 1 tablespoon com starch.
2 cups fresh oysters. 1 tablespoon butter.
1 cup chopped celery. 3^ teaspoon salt.
1 cup milk. ys teaspoon pepper.
Make a white sauce of the butter, corn starch, milk, salt, and pepper. In a baking dish, arrange alternate layers of rice, oysters, celery and white sauce until dish is nearly full, having a layer of rice cover the top. Bake for 20 minutes in a moderate oven.
Enchiladas
(A Recipe from Mexico City)
The sauce:
Wash and remove seeds from 6 large red chili peppers. Cover with 4 cups of soup stock or water and simmer until tender (about 1 hour). Strain; rubbing the chili peppers through a coarse sieve. Melt 2 tablespoons of shortening, add 2 cloves of garlic (which is to be removed when sauce is cooked), add 2 tablespoons of flour; mix until smooth and add chili mixture. Simmer until creamy.
The filling:
Mince 2 onions and 34 pound of Edam or Parmesan cheese. Sprinkle with Spanish sage and a few drops of tabasco sauce. Take the tortillas and dip each in the hot sauce until heated through, sprinkle with the filling and roll up like jelly roll. Place on a hot platter and cover with the rest of the mixture, then pour over them the chili sauce and garnish with olives. The tortillas can be bought in the Latin quarter.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [329]
Easy To Carry Hints in Camp Cookery for Outdoor Enthusiasts
For the week-end camper cooking is comparatively easy. Most of the food is prepared at home or purchased en route, and boiled meat, boiled or fried eggs, tea and coffee constitute most of the necessary cooking. The week-end camping trip is sort of a prolonged picnic, and if space is not too much of a factor and the party not too large, very appetizing meals can be planned, containing canned goods, bread, cake or cookies, which will require very little preparation for satisfactory meals.
The regular camping trip of a week or more presents an altogether different problem and necessitates considerable cooking. Everyone is hungry. Out-of-door life certainly develops an appetite and the amount of food a party of healthy persons can consume is sometimes appalling to the cook.
The success of an outing of this character depends largely upon good meals. Poor cooking on a camping trip has caused more unpleasantness among friends than any other discomfort or inconvenience. No matter how patient one is under extreme heat, mosquitoes, or the many annoyances which are apt to arise, everyone will be happy and forget their troubles if the "eats" are good and plentiful. Regardless of how smoothly other things run, if the food is not satisfactory, the trip will be somewhat of a failure. There is one comforting thought, however, which will encourage camp cooks — we all know genuine hunger is not critical and food will taste most appetizing under camping conditions which would not be tolerated at home.
The simplest food is the most appetizing and also the best to eat and prepare. Good coffee will cover a multi- tude of shortcomings, and put everyone in good humor. To make really good coffee in camp is an art. One of the first essentials is to have the coffee pot thoroughly washed each time it is used. Let it stand open in a sunny place when not in use. This is most important, otherwise the
[330] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
coffee will be bitter. Allow 1 rounding tablespoon of ground coffee for each cup of water used, then allow 1 extra tablespoonful in the pot for good measure. Use cold water and set the pot in a hot place and allow to reach boiling point and boil three minutes, no longer; set in a warm place, but not over the fire, add ^ cupful of cold water and let stand 5 or 10 minutes before using. The pot should be tightly covered, even taking care to stop up the spout so that none of the aroma will be lost. The % cup of cold water is added last to clear the coffee. Egg may be added instead, and if used should be mixed with the ground coffee before adding any of the cold water.
A clear, golden coffee will reward your efforts, which, with canned cream and sugar will be hailed with joy. No matter how weary and tired from a day's tramp, a good cup of coffee will stimulate and rest one.
Baked beans, well cooked, make a good dinner. Dig a hole large enough to hold several stones; heat them very hot, also have a bed of coals. The beans should be soaked over night in sufficient cold water to cover. In the morn- ing drain off all water cover with fresh cold water and bring to the boiling point and cook about >^ hour. Drain again. Put a piece of salt pork or bacon in the bottom of the bean pot or iron kettle, add beans, another piece of salt pork or bacon. Mix seasoning of mustard (may be omitted) salt, pepper, and either sugar or molasses, the latter giving the best flavor; add a pint of hot water and pour over beans; then cover beans entirely with hot water; cover closely and set on top of hot coals; put the heated stones on top, pack with dirt and make as nearly air-tight as possible. Let cook all day — about 8 or 10 hours. Be sure and have a kettle or pot large enough to hold suffi- cient water to completely cook the beans; otherwise they will taste scorched.
If brown beans are preferred, they should be soaked over night also, but they will not require so long a time to cook, and the seasonings should be tomato sauce and onions. A small fireless cooker is a great help on a long camping trip.
A self-rising pancake flour is easy to carry and is most
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [331]
convenient for outing trips. These flours only require an equal quantity of cold water and they are ready to bake. With a small bed of coals, a griddle or heavy frying- pan can be kept at a uniform heat, and if different per- sons take a turn at frying them, this type of pancake will make an easily prepared meal.
Perhaps the hardest task of all is to make the camp bread, and to be able to make it well is one of the tests of a good outdoor cook. The best utensil for baking in camp is a shallow iron kettle with an iron cover, commonly known as a "Dutch oven." Have a bed of coals, but rake them to one side and set the kettle in the center; put in the bread, cover and heap the coals on top and let bread cook about 1/2 hour. One of the commonest faults with camp cooking is having too much heat; the inexperienced camper builds a big fire which creates a quantity of smoke and makes cooking impossible. Hot coals are needed and a well-built campfire will soon produce them. Avoid hav- ing left-overs, for it is not easy to utilize them in camp cookery. Have simple meals, but aim to have food well prepared. Variety at each meal is not essential, but variety is desirable each day. Beans served for several meals in succession are certainly not appetizing.
Potatoes and fish may be wrapped in clean wet paper and cooked in hot ashes.
If canned milk is used allow }/i milk to % water for cooking purposes. When milk is mentioned in a recipe it means fresh milk or canned milk diluted in this propor- tion.
Any food which is cooked in a frying-pan or kettle can easily be managed over a campfire. If each person will do their share of the cooking and the inevitable dish washing, a camping trip will work no hardship on any one indi- vidual.
Camp Bread
4 cups flour (1 quart). 2 rounding tablespoons short- 2 level tablespoons baking pow- ening.
der. Vyi (about) cups milk or half 2 teaspoons salt. milk and half water.
Mix all dry ingredients; rub in shortening with the finger tips, and gradually add liquid, using a knife for
[332] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
mixing. Knead a little in the bowl, pat into shape, and place in a greased iron kettle or heavy frying-pan; cover closely, set over hot ashes or heated rocks, cover with hot coals or rocks and bake about 30 minutes.
Com Bread
4 cups com meal. 2 cups of milk or half milk and 4 cups boiling water. half water.
2 teaspoons salt. 3 tablespoons melted shorten-
3 tablespoons sugar. ing.
2 level tablespoons baking pow- 2 eggs, well beaten, der.
Pour boiling water over corn meal and let stand until cool; then add remaining ingredients. Beat well and pour into a heated iron kettle or frying-pan. Set over hot ashes or heated coals until done. If baking powder and eggs are not used you will have com pone.
Camp Pot Pie
Any kind of meat may be used. Cut in medium-sized pieces and dip in flour. Heat drippings or shortening in a heavy kettle or frying-pan, add meat and brown on all sides. If there is a quantity of meat, fry only a portion at one time so all will be brown, then cover with boiling water; cover tightly and set over hot ashes or a low bed of coals for 2 or 3 hours. The meat should cook under the boiling point, otherwise it will be tough. About an hour before serving add seasonings and vegetables.
Camp Dumplings
2 cups flour. 1 teaspoon salt.
1 tablespoon (level) baking 1 cup milk,
powder.
Mix in order named and drop by spoonfuls on top of boiling stew. Cover closely and cook about 15 minutes. These dumplings are very acceptable at the camp dinner. Success depends upon having the liquid constantly boil- ing and keeping kettle closely covered.
Camp Shortcake
Prepare one-half the camp bread mixture. Bake as directed for bread. When cooked, split open, butter and spread with sweetened fruit. A very easy dish to prepare.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [333]
Suggestions for the Picnic Lunch
The picnic lunch affords an opportunity for much thought and display in one's ability to prepare an appe- tizing cold meal. The fact that the food must be in such form that it may be easily carried limits the variety.
Sandwiches play the most important part on the picnic menu.
Everyone is hungry, and while fruit is refreshing and sweets are relished, after all it is the sandwich which makes the lunch, and there should be several varieties.
Bread is better which is a day old. The dark breads, such as graham, rye, Boston brown bread, and the various nut breads made with baking powder, all offer variety. Always cream butter well before putting upon the bread. It will spread evenly and there will be no waste. It is easier to spread butter on the bread before cutting each slice. But if the sandwiches are to be cut in various fancy shapes do not butter the bread until after it is cut, otherwise there will be a waste of butter.
Cut bread very thin and try to put the slices together in pairs if the filling is not added at once. If sandwiches are to be cut in various fancy shapes, do not butter the bread until after it has been cut or there will be a waste of butter. Wrap sandwiches in waxed paper or wring a napkin out of hot water and wrap around the prepared sandwiches; then pack in a box closely covered and keep in as cool a place as possible. If the crusts of bread are to be removed set aside and later dry them out in a moderate oven, roll and put in covered jars to be used for breading croquettes, fish, etc., or for scalloped dishes. To make rolled sand- wiches remove all the crust from a fresh loaf of white bread and wrap the loaf in a damp cloth for several hours, keep- ing in a cool place.
Cut in thin slices lengthwise, spread with creamed butter and whatever filling desired and roll as for a jelly roll, fastening together with a toothpick. If the loaf of bread is large, 1 slice will make 2 sandwich rolls. Wrap it in a waxed paper. If sliced, cooked meat is to be used as a filling, it should be very tender and be sliced as thin
[334] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
as possible, and then each slice of meat should be cut in several pieces. However, finely chopped meat is the best, put through a food chopper or chopped in a chopping bowl. All meat sandwich fillings should be well seasoned. For corned beef use prepared mustard; for roast beef, either Worcestershire sauce or horseradish; for tongue, a thick mayonnaise and finely chopped pickles; for mutton or lamb, add tomato catsup and chopped capers; for chopped ham, a thick mayonnaise well seasoned with mustard.
The different relishes make excellent seasoning for meat sandwiches. Picalilli, chow-chow, chopped olives, walnut catsup, etc., all add flavor and variety. For salad sand- wiches make a very thick well-seasoned mayonnaise and have the salad ingredients cut fine. Lettuce should be very crisp and each leaf well dried before placing on the bread. Relishes such as olives, pickles, radishes, celery or salted nuts are very easy to carry. Sweets may be pro- vided in cake, cookies, doughnuts or sweet sandwiches.
If the sandwiches are to be kept several hours before serving, wrap them in oiled paper, or wring a napkin as dry as possible out of hot water and wrap about the pre- pared sandwiches, keeping them as cool as possible.
Coffee is easily managed by using the powdered, pre- pared type which needs only hot water to make. Sugar and powdered or canned milk are easily carried. If lemonade is to be used, extract the lemon juice, make a syrup of sugar and water, allowing y^ cup of sugar for each lemon and enough hot water to dissolve it; boil I minute and add lemon juice, bottle. Add cold water when wanted. Never pack fish sandwiches near other food, and be sure each article of food is well wrapped or packed so that it will not come in contact with other foods. Much of the success of the picnic lunch depends upon the appearance of the food, so careful packing is a necessity.
Olive Sandwich Filling
Chop olives, mix with enough thick mayonnaise to make a paste, then spread on bread. Lettuce leaf may also be added.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [335]
Bacon Sandwich Filling
Have bacon cut very thin, cook until crisp and put between slices of buttered bread while still warm. Wrap in waxed paper.
Savory Ham Filling
1 cup finely chopped ham. 2 sour pickles, finely chopped.
3^ cup thick mayonnaise.
Mix and spread on thin slices of bread. Egg Sandwich Filling
Shell hard cooked eggs; cut in two and remove yolks. Chop the egg whites and put yolks through a sieve, com- bine and add thick mayonnaise to make a paste. Chopped stuffed olives may be added also.
Pimento and Cheese
1 small Neufchatel or breakfast 1 pimento, chopped, cheese.
Moisten with thick mayonnaise.
Noisette Sandwiches
Use nut bread, spread with cream cheese and butter, beaten together until soft enough to spread. Cover with orange marmalade, then place plain slice of bread on top. Cut in triangles.
California Sandwiches
Equal quantities of chopped seeded raisins and wal- nuts. Flavor with a little lemon juice. Spread on graham bread.
Ham and Egg Sandwich
1 cup chopped ham. M cup mayonnaise.
2 hard boiled eggs.
Shell eggs and chop very fine; mix ingredients. The mayonnaise should be well seasoned with mustard.
Olive and Cheese Sandwich
Moisten finely chopped stuflFed olives with a thick mayonnaise dressing. Spread upon one-half the buttered
[336] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
slices of bread; the remaining slices are spread with cream cheese, then press together in pairs.
Caviar Sandwich
For each tablespoon of caviar used, add a few drops of onion and lemon juice, then mix well. Spread between thin buttered slices of bread.
Sardine Filling
Remove bones and rub sardines to a paste. Season with lemon juice and a little Worcestershire sauce.
Cheese and Walnut Sandwich Filling
1 small cream cheese. 3^ cup finely chopped walnuts. 3*^ cup butter. Salt and paprika.
Cream the butter, add cheese, nuts and seasonings. Spread on unbuttered slices of bread.
Fig Sandwich Filling
Chop 1 cup of figs very fine, add a little water and cook to a paste. Chop very fine 3^ cup of blanched almonds, add to the fig paste and season all with a little lemon juice. Cool before using. Raisins or dates may be treated in the same manner.
Cheese Sandwich Filling
2 tablespoons butter. J^ teaspoon dry mustard. 2 tablespoons flour, 1 cup milk.
Yi teas oon salt. 1 cup cheese cut in cubes.
Melt the butter, add dry ingredients and mix until smooth. Cook over a slow fire until frothy, then add cold milk and cheese and stir until creamy. Cool and spread between unbuttered slices of bread. The filling should be as thick as the bread.
Prune Sandwich Filling
Drain and rub pitted cooked prunes through a coarse sieve. For each cup mashed prunes add 1 teaspoon lemon juice and 1 tablespoon orange marmalade.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [337
Candies
The base, or foundation, of all cream candies is fondant. If directions are carefully followed fondant can easily be made, and from this foundation an almost endless variety of combinations. As sugar syrups are easily affected by atmospheric conditions, it will be advisable to select a clear day for making candies.
The following rules should be constantly kept in mind when cooking syrup for fondant: Scald the saucepan be- fore using, to be sure no odor or taste is left from previous use. Never stir the syrup after the sugar has dissolved and cooking has commenced. If stirred the finished product will be granular. When testing the syrup, reduce the heat under the saucepan or carefully remove from the fire in order to prevent further cooking. Always cover the saucepan until the boiling point is reached. If any sugar has gathered on the saucepan, the steam created by covering the utensil will remove it. Wash the hands in cold water before kneading the fondant. Never attempt to make a larger quantity at one time than recipe calls for; even half that amount might be easier at first. If a quantity is desired, make the recipe several times — it will be much more successful.
Fondant
To 4 cups of granulated sugar, J/^ teaspoon of cream of tartar, add 2 cups of boiling water. Mix carefully until sugar is dissolved, to avoid any possibility of sugar grains gathering on the sides of the saucepan. This is most im- portant, and if sugar has gathered on the kettle carefully wash it off with a damp cloth. If the saucepan is not kept free of sugar the fondant will become grainy. Cover kettle until boiling point is reached, then uncover and cook until the syrup will form a soft ball (238 deg. F.) when dropped in cold water. This will take about 10 minutes. When cooked remove from the fire at once and set aside to cool in the kettle in which it was cooked. The syrup should cool evenly, so must not be poured into a cold dish. When cool, but not cold, stir well with a flat wooden spoon until
[338] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
the syrup lias changed to a white, creamy mass, too stiff to stir. Turn on to a moulding board and knead just as you would bread. The lightness of the fondant depends upon the amount of kneading it has received. Place in a bowl or jar, cover with a damp cloth and set aside in a cool place for several hours, when it will be ready for the various types of cream candies. If well made, fondant will be very white, glossy and satiny in appearance, and should be as smooth as butter when rolled between the fingers. Sometimes fondant will become grainy, or sugary, and if this condition should happen put it in a saucepan, add hot water to cover, stir until dissolved and cook again to the soft-ball stage.
Maple Fondant
Maple fondant is made with 2 cups of brown sugar, 1 cup of maple syrup, ^ teaspoon cream of tartar and 1 cup of boiling water. Mix carefully and cook in the same manner as the white fondant.
Cream Drops
Divide the fondant into several portions, using about yi cupful for each portion; place one part in a cup or bowl and set in a pan of hot water until fondant is melted, then flavor, color and drop from the tip of a teaspoon on to a slightly greased paper. Each part should be flavored and colored differently. These creams will harden at once, but should not be removed from the paper for an hour or two. Peppermint, wintergreen, chocolate, lemon and orange are the best flavors to use. Perfectly harmless vegetable colorings come in a paste form, and it recjuires only a small amount to produce a delicate color. They come in tiny jars and will last for several years, so are not expensive.
Stuffed Prunes
A very satisfactory candy, easily made and good for the children. Wash prunes well, then place in a steamer over hot water until they become plump, but not soft or broken. Cool, remove pit and stuff with vanilla or choco- late flavored fondant. Roll the fondant in balls before
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [339]
stuffing prunes. Or fill prunes with marshmallows. For a dinner confection, stuff prunes with salted almonds or walnut meats.
Chocolate Creams
Flavor fondant and roll into small balls; set aside to dry for an hour or more. Use a dipping or an unsweetened chocolate for coating. Melt the chocolate over hot water and do not keep over the fire after it has melted. Dip each ball of fondant into the chocolate, using a candy dipper or a fork. Do this quickly, so that too much choc- olate is not coated to the fondant, for it will only run off and spread as the candy dries. Set each cream on a slightly greased or waxed paper to dry.
Walnut Creams
Flavor fondant, roll into small balls, then press half a walnut meat on each side; set aside to dry. Pecans or almonds may be used in the same manner.
Nut Bars
Knead chopped nuts into flavored fondant and make into a roll about 2 inches thick and 5 or 6 inches long. Cut off pieces about >^ inch thick and set aside to dry.
Cocoanut Bars
Knead cocoanut into flavored fondant; roll about 2 inches thick and several inches long and cut into yi inch slices.
Candied Orange Peel
Remove the skin from oranges in quarters; put in a saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to the boiling point. Simmer until tender. Drain; remove all the white portion; cut in thin strips with the scissors; boil 1 cup of sugar with yi cup of hot water until it spins a thread when dropped from the tip of a spoon; add the orange peel, cook 5 minutes, drain from syrup and roll in granulated sugar.
[340] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Divinity Fudge
2 cups of sugar. 2 stiffly beaten egg whites.
% cup corn syrup. 3^ cup chopped wahiuts.
}4 cup water. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
Boil sugar, syrup and water, without stirring, until the syrup becomes brittle (270 deg. F.) when dropped in cold water. Pour over the beaten egg whites, add vanilla and nuts. Pour into a greased plate, cool and cut in squares.
Peanut Butter Candy
2 cups sugar. ^ cup peanut butter.
% cup milk. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
Bring sugar and milk to the boiling point and cook until syrup forms a soft ball when dropped in cold water. Re- move from the fire, add remaining ingredients and beat until creamy. Pour into a buttered pan about an inch in depth, cool and cut in squares.
Fudge
2 cups sugar. % cup milk.
2 squares unsweetened choco- 1 tablespoon butter, late. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
Boil sugar, milk and chocolate until the syrup forms a soft ball when dropped in cold water (238 deg. F.). Take from the fire, add butter; set aside to cool slightly, then add vanilla and stir mixture until it begins to thicken. Pour at once into a buttered plate and cut into squares. Chop- ped nuts may be added.
Nut, Date and Chocolate Sweetmeat
4 tablespoons maple syrup. 3^ cup blanched almonds, cut
]/2 lb. of "Dot" or dipping in shreds.
chocolate. 1 teaspoon vanilla.
1 package dates cut from seeds and cut in small pieces.
Heat the syrup to boiling point, add chocolate and let stand over hot water until chocolate is melted. Add dates, nuts and flavoring. Mix until thoroughly blended — • pour into a brick-shaped pan that has been lined smoothly with oiled paper.
Press mixture into pan, spread oiled paper over top and
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [341]
over this place a board and weight. Let stand six hours or longer to ripen. Remove from paper and cut in small pieces.
Pinoche
1 cup brown sugar. 2 teaspoons vanilla.
1 cup granulated sugar. 1 cup chopped nuts ; pecans or
^ cup milk or thin cream. walnuts.
Add milk to sugar, stir until dissolved and boil until syrup will form a soft ball when dropped in cold water. Add nuts and flavoring and beat until creamy. Pour into a buttered pan and when cool cut in squares.
Peanut Brittle
Take equal parts of sugar and peanuts which have been roasted, shelled and broken. Melt sugar in an iron frying pan over a slow fire until a golden syrup is formed. It will be necessary to stir this constantly. As soon as the syrup begins to color remove from the fire; the heat of the pan should finish the cooking; then add the peanuts, mix and pour on an ungreased platter. When cold and hard break into pieces.
Glace Nuts
Halves of walnuts, pecans, almond or Brazil nuts are dipped into the melted sugar just before it turns brown. Drop each coated nut on a greased plate to cool and harden.
[342] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Invalid Cookery
OOD for the sick and convalescent should be care- fully prepared and daintily served. The attractive appearance has much to do towards tempting a capricious appetite. In severe cases of sickness the physician in charge usually prescribes the diet, and regardless of the wishes or cravings of the patient the doctor's orders should be carried out implicitly. In mild cases of sickness or during convalescence, nutrious and easily digested food is required to bring the body back to its normal condition.
While there is no effort on the part of the patient that would seem to require energy foods, nevertheless the body requirements are almost the same during illness as in health. After a long acute illness a convalescing patient may require more food than when perfectly well in order to bring the body back to its normal condition, and also supply the daily food requirements. If insufficient fuel food is supplied during illness the body will have to draw upon its own reserve which will weaken the patient and make recovery slow.
The foods selected should be easily digested and assimi- lated in order to place no undue tax upon the system.
Milk in some form, either plain or in combination with cereals, eggs, etc., is one of the most valuable foods for the invalid's tray.
Gruels are easily digested and assimilated but unless taken in quantities will not supply sufficient nutriment. Their chief value is to allay hunger, often imaginary on the part of the patient.
Beef juice has very little fuel value unless taken in quantity. As it is not as palatable as broth or beef tea it is usually served in small portions.
Broths and clear soups contain little nutriment but are relished for their soothing qualities if served hot, and refreshing if served cold. When some thickening medium such as eggs or cereals are added to any of these gruels or broths their food value increases.
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [343]
Gluten Bread
1 cup water. Y^ teaspoon salt.
\i cup lukewarm water. 2 cups gluten flour.
}/i cake compressed yeast.
Soak yeast cake in lukewarm water until soft. Scald water and cool to lukewarm, then add yeast; salt, and grad- ually beat in the flour until dough is too stiff to handle, then knead thoroughly, using more flour if necessary. Be sure the water is only lukewarm otherwise the mixture will be sticky and hard to handle. Shape into a loaf and place in a greased pan. Let stand in a moderately warm place until the loaf doubles in size. Bake about 45 min- utes in a hot oven.
Oatmeal Gruel
3^ cup rolled oats. K teaspoon salt.
V/i cups boiling water.
Mix ingredients and cook directly over the flame for 5 minutes, then over hot water for one hour. Strain, then reheat, adding milk or cream as desired.
Commeal Gruel
2 tablespoons com meal. 4 tablepoons cold water.
1 tablespoon flour. 2 cups boiling water. 3^ teaspoon salt.
Mix corn meal flour and salt with the cold water to a smooth paste, then add to the rapidly boiling water, stirring constantly. Cook over a low fire about 2 hours. Dilute to desired consistency with hot milk or cream, then strain.
Farina Gruel
2 tablespoons Farina. 1 cup hot milk. 3^ cup cold water. Y^ teaspoon salt. 1 cup boiling water.
Mix Farina with cold water, then add to salted boiling water. Cook directly over the fire 5 minutes, then over hot water 30 minutes. Add the hot milk and serve. The gruel may be poured over 1 well-beaten egg.
Beef Tea
1 pound of round steak. 3^ teaspoon salt.
2 cups cold water.
[344] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
Wipe steak with a damp cloth. Remove all fat and cut into half-inch cubes. Put meat into a quart glass fruit-jar, add cold water and let stand half an hour to extract the juice. Adjust rubber band and cover tightly on jar and set on a rack or plate placed in the bottom of a large kettle. Surround with cold water and gradually heat until water is hot but not boiling. Keep hot for about 2 hours. Strain and cool. Remove all fat, reheat, season and serve in hot cups.
Beef Juice
1 pound of top round steak.
Wipe meat and remove all fat. Broil about 1 minute on each side to start the juices, then slash meat both lengthwise and crosswise that more juice may be extracted. Squeeze out the juice in a press, lemon squeezer or potato ricer. Pour into a hot cup, season slightly with salt and serve. Very little of this juice can be relished at one time, one-half a cupful or less.
Mutton or Beef Broth
The cheaper cuts of meat should be used. For each pound of meat and bones allow 4 cups or 1 quart of cold water, 1 teaspoon of salt. Wipe the meat, remove skin and cut into small pieces. Have bones well-cracked, and broken. Put into a kettle, add cold water, and let stand 30 minutes to extract the juices. Add salt and gradually heat to simmering point. Keep below boiling point about 4 hours or until meat is very tender. Strain and cool. Remove fat. Reheat in a double boiler or over hot water, season and serve. Broths should be made a day before serving so that all the fat may be easily removed. Cooked rice or pearl barley may be added to the strained broth.
Chicken Broth
Dress chicken and remove all skin and fat. Cut as for a fricassee, then proceed as for mutton broth.
Scraped Beef
Secure top round steak. Lay meat on a board and with a silver spoon scrape off the soft part until nothing re-
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [345]
mains but the stringy, tough fiber which is discarded. Make into flat, small cakes and broil. Add salt after meat is cooked. Serve with toast.
Prune Custard
]/2 cup prune pulp. 1 teaspoon melted butter.
3^ cup milk scalded. 1 egg beaten.
1 tablespoon sugar.
Prepare prune pulp by pitting and rubbing cooked prunes through a coarse sieve. Add all ingredients to the prune pulp. Pour into two buttered custard cups, set in a pan of hot water and bake in a moderate oven until firm. Other fruit pulp may replace the prunes.
Fruit Whip
3 tablespoons fruit pulp. 3^ teaspoon lemon juice.
1 egg white. 1 tablespoon powdered sugar.
Use fresh or cooked fruit or jelly. Rub the fruit through a coarse sieve. Beat the white of the egg with a whip egg beater until very firm; fold in the fruit pulp and sugar. If cooked fruits or jelly are used the sugar will not be re- quired. Serve with a custard sauce.
Malted Milk Custard
2 tablespoons Malted Milk 1 egg well beaten.
Powder. 1 cup hot water.
Put malted milk powder in a bowl; add just enough of the hot water to make a smooth paste free from all lumps. Gradually add the remainder of the water. Pour this over the well-beaten egg. Pour into buttered custard cups, set in a pan of hot water and bake in a moderate oven until firm in the center.
Blanc Mange
J^ cup milk. 1 egg white.
1 level tablespoon cornstarch. 3^ teaspoon vanilla.
1 tablespoon sugar.
Scald milk in a double boiler or over hot water. Mix sugar and cornstarch until well blended; add the scalded mi k slowly to the cornstarch mixture, stirring constantly. Return to a double boiler and cook until thick, stirring constantly. Then cook about 20 minutes, stirring fre- quently. Beat the white of the egg until stiff and fold
[346] MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK
into the cornstarch mixture. When partially cool add vanilla and pour into wet molds or custard cups. Chill thoroughly before unmolding. Serve with a custard sauce, cream or fresh mashed fruit.
Chocolate Blanc Mange
Add 1 tablespoon of ground chocolate to the cornstarch and sugar mixture, and proceed as for plain Blanc Mange, Serve with whipped cream.
Fruit Blanc Mange
Substitute fruit juice for the milk and proceed as for plain Blanc Mange. Serve with whipped cream or a custard sauce.
Snow Balls
}i cup rice. 3^ teaspoon salt.
1 cup milk.
Wash rice thoroughly in several waters. Put milk and rice in a double boiler and cook until milk is absorbed and rice is tender. Dip custard or egg cups in cold water then pack with rice and turn out at once on a serving plate. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve with whipped cream.
Baked Custard
}4 cup milk scalded. 1 tablespoon sugar.
1 egg or 2 yolks. J4 teaspoon vanilla.
Scald milk in a double boiler; beat egg slightly, add sugar, then add hot milk and vanilla. Pour into buttered custard cups and set in a pan of hot water and bake in a moderate oven until custard is firm.
Fruit Meringue
1 cup fruit pulp. 1 egg separated.
1 tablespoon sugar. Fine dry bread crumbs.
Press any cooked fruit through a coarse sieve. Heat fruit pulp, add sugar and beaten egg yolks. Butter cus- tard cups and cover the bottom and sides with bread crumbs. Pour in the fruit mixture and bake in a moderate oven until firm Beat egg whites until stifle, gradually
MRS. DE GRAF'S COOK BOOK [347]
add 1 tablespoon of sugar. Place in top of pudding and return to a moderate oven and brown slightly. Serve cold.
Charlotte Russe
3^ cup whipping cream. Lady fingers.
1 tablespoon sugar. Mashed cooked fruit.
Whip cream, add sugar. Fill individual dishes one- third full of mashed fruit, then line the dish with lady fingers and fill with the whipped cream.
Prune Toast
Heat y2 cup prune juice; add juice of yi orange and y2 cup cooked, pitted prunes. Mix 1 teaspoonful corn- starch with enough cold water to dissolve; add to hot prune mixture and cook over hot water ten minutes. Pour over buttered toast. A nice breakfast dish or, if garnished with whipped cream, it makes a dessert.
Fruit Betty
Moisten 1 cup soft bread crumbs with 2 tablespoons melted butter. Use 1 cup mashed cooked fruit. Put the buttered crumbs and fruit in a baking dish in alternate layers. Sprinkle each layer with tablespoon sugar and a little lemon or orange juice. Pour over 1 cup fruit juice and bake in a moderate oven about twenty minutes. Serve hot with cream or top milk.
INDEX
A
APPETIZERS 49
Anchovy Eggs 50
Paste 50
Caviare and Egg Canape 50
Cheese Relish 51
Crab Canape 49
Cream Cheese Canape 49
Fruit Cocktail 41-42
Grated Cheese Canape 49
Lobster Cocktail 49
Oyster Cocktail 51
Sardine Canape 49
Shell Fish Canape 49
Smoked Salmon Canape 50
Stuffed Eggs 51
Crab Louis 325
APPLES— (see Fruits) 276
B
BACON, Broiled 103
Fried 103
BAKING 18
BEEF 91-98
BEVERAGES 32
Beef Tea 32
Chocolate 33
Cocoa 33
Coffee 32-33
Tea 32
BEVERAGES— COLD 34
California Punch 37
College Punch 37
Fruit Cup 36
Fruit Punch 36
Grape Punch 37
Honolulu Fizz 35
Lemon Whey 36
Orangeade 37
Orange Julep 35
Southern Punch 36
Pineapple Lemonade 37
[350] INDEX
BISCUIT— (see Breakfast Breads) 206
BISCUIT DOUGH DESSERTS 279
BOILING 16
BOILED DINNER 17
BRAISING 17
BREAD, Helpful Hints on 186-187
Boston Brown 198
Bran 190
Camp 331
Entire Wheat 189
Gluten Bread 343
Gingerbread 198
Golden Corn 213
Graham 190
Nut 197
Prune 188-197
Raisin 188
Rye 191
Sandwich 197
Spoon 213
Toast 196
French 196
Milk 196
With Yeast 187
Without Yeast 197
BREAKFAST 64
BREAKFAST BREADS 200
Biscuits 206
Baking Powder 207
Butter Buns 209
Cheese 208
Cinnamon 210
Corn Meal 209
Dinner 208
Emergency 207
Entire Wheat 208
Graham 209
Luncheon 208
Maple Nut 209
Savory 208
Scones 210
Surprise 209
Griddle Cakes 202
Bread 203
Cereal 203
Corn 203
French Pancake 204
Rice 203
Sour 203
INDEX [351]
BREAKFAST BREADS— Continued
Muffins 211
Berkshire 211
Bran 212
Corn Meal and Rice 213
Entire Wheat 211
Fruit 212
Golden Corn 213
Graham 211
Nut 212
Popovers 211
Rice 214
Rolled 214
Rye 211
Sally Lunn 212
Southern Corn 212
Waffles 200
Cereal 205
Corn Meal 204
Entire Wheat 205
Rice 205
Sour Milk 204
Sweet Milk 204
C
CAKE 228-236
Angel 237
Apple 233
" Sauce 233
Boston Cream 234
Cheese 224
Chocolate 238
" Roll 239
Coffee 192
" Brioche 194
" Plain 192
" Quick 233
" Rusk 194
" Tea Ring 192
" Wreath 193
Cream PufFs 250
Crumb 235
Devil's Food 231
Eclairs. 250
Foundation Recipe 230
Fruit — Christmas 232
Golden 23 1
Jelly Roll 235
King 235
Lady Finger 234
One Egg Chocolate 231
fi
[352] ]NDEX
CAKE— Continued
Pound 232
Prune 233
Quick 233
Spice 232
Sponge— Plain 238
True 238
Walnut 230
White 230
CAKE FILLINGS 240
Chocolate — French Cream 245
Mocha 246
Cocoanut Cream 245
Cream Royal 245
French Cream 244
[elly 246
/ady Baltimore 244
Macaroon 244
Marshmallow 244
Mocha Butter 246
" Cream 245
Nut Caramel 244
Orange 245
Pineapple 245
Prune 246
Strawberry 247
Tutti Frutti 246
Waldorf 244
Walnut 244
" Cream 245
CAKE ICINGS 240
Boiled 242
Caramel 243
Chocolate 243
Confectioners' 242
Creole 243
Divinity 243
Quick 242
CAMP COOKERY 329
Bread 331
Corn Bread 332
Dumplings 332
Pot Pie 332
Shortcake 332
CANAPES 49
Caviare and Egg 50
Crab 49
Cream Cheese 49
Grated Cheese 49
Lobster 49
INDEX [353]
CANAPES— Continued
Sardine 49
Shell Fish 49
Smoked Salmon 50
CANDIES 337
Candied Orange Peel 339
Cocoanut Bars 339
Creams — Chocolate 338
Drops 338
Walnut 339
Divinity Fudge 340
Fondant 337
Fudge 340
Nut Bars 339
Peanut Brittle 340
Stuffed Prunes 338
Sweet Meats 340
CANNING FRUIT 312
Time Table 314
CANNING VEGETABLES 307
Asparagus 310
Green Peas 310
Lima Beans 311
String Beans 3 10
Tomatoes 310
Time Table 309
CEREALS— Time for Cooking 66
Directions for Cooking 67
Gruel — Cornmeal 343
Farina 343
Oatmeal 343
Rice— Boiled 68
" Oriental Method 69
CHAFING DISH COOKERY 323
Chicken a la King 327
Curried Eggs 326
Eggs and Mushrooms 326
English Monkey 326
Lobster Wiggle 327
Oyster Scallop 328
Scotch Woodcock 327
Toasted Cheese Sandwich 328
Welsh Rarebit 327
CHEESE 118
Biscuit 208
Baked with Rice 123
Cake 224
Cream Cheese Canape 49
Croquettes 121
[354] INDEX
CHEESE— Continued
English Monkey 326
Fondu. 125
Gnocchi 126
Grated Cheese Canape 49
Macaroni 122
Omelet 78
Pineapple Salad 325
Relish 51
Roquefort Dressing 175
Salad Dressing 174
Sandwich 336
Sauce 161
Spaghetti a I'ltalienne 123
Scotch Woodcock 327
Toast and Bacon 122
Toasted Sandwiches 328
Walnut Sandwiches 336
Welsh Rarebit 336
CHICKEN 104
A la King 1 327
Au Gratin 133
Casserole 108
Croquettes 138
Fricassee 107
Fried 109
Maryland 109
Oven Cooked 109
Oyster Pie and 132
Paprika 109
Pie 108
Roast 107
Stewed 108
CHOCOLATE 33
Cake 238
Filling 245-246
Roll 239
CHOWDERS 62
CLAMS, Creamed 89
Chowder 62
Panned 89
Steamed 89
COBBLER— FRUIT 280
COCKTAILS, Crab 49
Fruit 41-42
Lobster 49
INDEX [355]
COCKTAILS— Continued
Oyster 51
Sauce 51
COCOA 33
COFFEE 32-33
Cakes 192-194
COOKIES AND SMALL CAKES 248
Cream PufFs 250
Doughnuts 254
" Dropped 254
Raised 195
Drop 252
Eclairs 250
Ginger 253-254
Hermits 253
Kisses 250
Meringues 250
Rolled Oat 252
" Macaroons 252
" Wheat 253
Sponge 251
Sugar 251
Walnut Wafers 253
CRAB 90, 325
Deviled 90
Louis 325
Newberg 90
CRANBERRIES— JELLIED 302
CREAM— TO WHIP 282
CROQUETTES 138
Cheese 136
Chicken 138
Fish 137
Ham 137
How to Fry 137
Macaroni 139
Meat 137
Potato 138
Rice 138
Sauce for — Brown 137
" " White 137
To Shape 136
CROUTONS 61
CULINARY TERMS AND METHODS 14
CUSTARDS 256
Baked 258
Caramel 258
Chocolate 258
Cocoanut 259
[356] INDEX
CUSTARDS— Continued
Floating Island 259
How to Make 256
Maple 259
Mocha 259
Rice 261
Sauce 167
Soft 257
D
DEEP FAT FRYING 134
DESSERTS OF BISCUIT DOUGH 279
Cobbler Fruit . 280
Dumplings — Fruit 279
Prune 279
Fruit Roll— Steamed 280
Shortcake— Old Fashioned 279
Turnovers — Orange 279
DESSERTS-FROZEN 292
Biscuit Tortoni 295
Frozen Custard 294
" Meringues 296
" Pudding 294
Ice Cream — Bisque 295
" Chocolate 294
Fruit 294
French 294
Philadelphia 294
Mousse — Fruit 294
Maple 295
Parfait — Pineapple 296
Sherbet 295
. Water Ice 295
DESSERTS OF GELATINE 282
Apple Snow 286
Butterscotch Rice 285
Caramel 283
Charlotte Russe — Banana 284
Mocha 284
Lemon 283
Mock Biscuit Tortoni 285
Orange 283
" Bavarian 285
Spanish Cream 284
DESSERTS OF WHIPPED CREAM 287
Bavarians — Fruit 288
Charlotte Russe 288
" Raisin 290
" Surprise 290
Cream Whips 289
INDEX [357]
DESSERTS OF WHIPPED CREAM— Continued
Fruit Cream— Molded 290
Marshmallow Cream 291
Strawberry 289
Rice Dainty 290
Strawberry Whip 291
DINNER MENUS 321-332
DINNERS— HOLIDAY 320
DOUGHNUTS 254
Dropped ; 254
Raised 195
DRESSINGS 110
Bread 110
Celery 110
Chestnut 110
Oyster 110
Prune 110
DRIED BEEF— Creamed with Spaghetti 132
DUCK— Roast 109
DUMPLINGS, Camp 332
Drop 210
Fruit 279
£
ECLAIRS 250
EGGS 70
A la King 74
Anchovy 50
Asparagus, with 73
Baked with Cheese 75
" " Mashed Potatoes 73
" in Potato Cases 73
Benedict 73
California 124
Creole 75
Curried 74—326
Food Value 70
Fried 73
Hard Cooked 71
Marine 74
Mushrooms, with 326
Poached 72
" with Cheese 122
" Spinach 72
Sandwich Filling 335
Scrambled 72
" with White Sauce 72
Serving 70
[358] INDEX
EGGS— Continued
Shirred Creole 74
Soft Cooked 71
Stuffed : 51
To Pack 75
ENCHILADAS 328
EVERYDAY MISTAKES IN COOKING 19
F
FARINA 66
Gruel 343
Spanish 125
FAT 28
Deep Fat Frying .V ! !!!!]]!!!!!]!!!!!!!!!!]!!!!!!!!] 1 !!!!! 134
To Render 29
Value in the Diet 28
FISH COOKERY 84
Au Gratin 13?
Baked 86
" with StuflSng 84
Balls 90
Boiled 87
Broiled .' 88
Codfish— Creamed 90
Crab — Louis 325
Creamed 88
Croquettes 88
Escalloped 86
Fillets 87
Fried 87
Lobster Wiggle 327
Oysters — Creamed 89
Fried 89
Omelet 79
Panned 89
Poulette 325
Scalloped 89-328
Stew 88
With Bacon 89
Pie 86
Salt 90
Saut^ed 87
Shell Fish 86
Steamed 87
FRITTER BATTER 136
Banana 139
Celery 139
Corn 139
FROZEN DESSERTS 292-295
INDEX [359]
FRUIT— FRESH 38
Bananas 42
Cocktail 41-42
Cocktail Sauce 42
Grapefruit — in Sections 40
" to Remove Pulp 40
Melon 41
" Cocktail. 41
Orange — in Sections 40
" to Remove Pulp 40
Oranges — Sliced 41
Peaches — Sliced 41
Strawberries — au Naturel 41
FRUIT— COOKED 276
Apples 276
" Baked 276
" Coddled 278
" Glazed 277
" with Raisins 278
" Ginger 277
" Jellied 277
" Sauce 278
" Spiced. 318
Cranberries — ^Jellied 302
Prune Juice 43
Prunes — Stewed 42
G
GAME 104
Roast Duck 109
GARNISHES 44
GELATINE DESSERTS 282-285
GIBLET SAUCE Ill
GNOCCHI 126
GRIDDLE CAKES 200-202
GRILLING 18
H
HAM, Baked 101
Broiled 103
Fried 103
Sandwich — Egg 335
Savory 335
HOLIDAY DINNERS 320
Menus 321-322
[360] INDEX
I
ICE CREAMS 292-295
ICINGS— CAKE 240
INVALID COOKERY 342
Beef Tea 343
" Juice 344
" Scraped 344
Bread— Gluten 343
Broth— Beef 344
Chicken 344
Mutton 344
Desserts 345-347
Blanc Mange 345
" Chocolate 346
" Fruit 346
Charlotte Russe 347
Custard— Baked 346
Malted Milk 345
^ " Prune 345
Fruit Betty 347
" Meringue 346
" Whip 345
Junket 260
Prune Toast 347
Snow Balls 346
Gruel 343
Cornmeal 343
Farina 343
Oatmeal 343
J
JAM 298
Currants — Bar le due 304
Fig 304
Gooseberry 304
Marmalade — Apple 304
Golden 305
Orange 305
" Pineapple and Orange 306
Plum Butter 304
Peach 304
Raisin and Apple Conserve 305
Rhubarb 302
Strawberry 303
" Conserve 303
Sunshine 303
JELLY 298
Apple 302
" Mint 302
Crabapple 302
INDEX
[361]
JELLY — Continued
Cranberry 302
Currant 301
" and Raspberry 301
Grape 301
Loganberry 301
Plum 302
JUNKET 260
K
KIDNEY SAUTE 102
KISSES 250
L
LAMB 99-100
LEFT-OVERS— Use of 127
Chicken au Gratin 133
Chicken and Oyster Pie 132
Corned Beef Hash 131
Cottage Pie 131
Dried Beef— Creamed 132
" with Spaghetti 132
Fish au Gratin 133
Green Peppers— Stuffed 132
Lamb Curry 131
Omelets 76-81
Meat au Gratin 133
" Pie 132
" Pie Crust 210
" Reheating Roast 131
« Scalloped 132
Pie— Cottage 131
" Meat 132
Rissoles 133
Sweetbreads — Creamed 133
Timbales . 117
Tongue — Piquante 133
LIVER AND BACON 103
LOBSTER 90
Deviled 90
Newberg 90
M
MACARONI and Cheese 122
Salad 181
Croquettes 139
MARMALADE 298
MAYONNAISE DRESSING 173
[362] INDEX
MEASUREMENTS 13
MEAT 91
Bacon 103
Broiled 103
Fried 103
Beef, Au Grarin 133
Boiled 97
Braised 96
Broiled 94
Brown Stew 98
Casserole 97
Corned 98
Dried 132
Hash— Corned Beef 131
Juice 344
Loaf Creole 123
Roast 93
" Pot 93
Steak— Broiled 94
Broiled Flank 95
" Pan Broiled 94
Planked 95
" Pounded Round 96
" Stuffed 95
Tongue — Braised 102
Piquante 133
Ham, Baked 101
Broiled 103
Fried 103
Kidney Saut6 102
Lamb, Boiled 99
Chops— Breaded 100
Broiled 94
Curry 131
Roast 93
" Breast 99
Stew 99
Liver and Bacon 103
Pork— Shoulder 100
Tripe 101
" Broiled 102
Veal— Cutlets, Breaded 100
" Roast 93
Sweetbreads 101.
Broiled 101
MEAT SUBSTITUTES 118
Baked Rice and Cheese 123
Boston Baked Beans 120
Cheese Croquettes 121
Cheese Fondu 125
Corn Pudding 124
INDEX [363]
MEAT SUBSTITUTES— Continued
Farina Spanish 125
Gnocchi 126
Meat Loaf Creole 123
Poached Eggs — California 124
Poached Eggs — Cheese Sauce 122
Pink Beans— Spanish 120
Polenta 124
Rice and Meat Loaf 125
Rissotto — No. 1 121
No. 2 121
Spaghetti a ITtalienne 123
StufFed Peppers 123
Tamale Loaf 124
MENU BUILDING 25
MENUS 27
MERINGUE 224
for Pie 224
for Pudding 224
Uncooked 267
or Kisses 250
MINCE MEAT 224
MUFFINS 211
O
OMELETS 76
Asparagus Tip 78
Banana 81
Bread 80
Cheese. . 78
Combinations for 80
French 80
Green Pepper 79
Ham 79
How to Make 76
Italian 78
Jelly 81
Oyster 79
Puffy n
Spanish 80
Strawberry 81
Sweet 81
Tomato 79
OVEN REGULATION 22
OYSTERS, Cocktail 51
Creamed 89
Fried 89
Omelet 79
[364] INDEX
OYSTERS— Continued
Panned 89
Poulette 325
Scalloped 89-328
Stew 88
With Bacon 89
P
PANCAKE— French 204
PASTRY 216
Flaky 218
Plain 218
PASTRY DESSERTS 281
Apple Roll 281
Banbury Tarts 281
Fruit Tarts 281
PEPPERS— StufFed 123
PICKLES 315
Apple Chutney 318
Apples — Spiced 318
Cantaloupe 315
Chilli Sauce 317
Cucumber — Sour 316
Sweet 317
Dill.. 318
Garnish for 48
Mustard 318
Pears — Sweet 316
Piccalilli 317
String Beans 316
Tomato Catsup 317
Watermelon 315
PIES 216
Apple 221
" Tart 221
Apricot Tart 220
Butterscotch 219
Custard 221
Cranberry 222
Date 222
Fruit — Canned 224
Lemon 220
Meringue for 224
Mince Meat 224
Orange Souffle 219
Pumpkin 220
and Nut 222
Prune 222
" Cream 223
INDEX [365]
PIES— Continued
Raisin 223
Rhubarb 223
Squash 220
Strawberry Tart 221
POLENTA 124
POPOVERS 211
POTATOES 152
Baked. 152
" with Sausage 156
Balls 153
Boiled for Mashing 152
Casserole . 154
Creamed with Eggs 157
Quick 157
Duchess 153
Escalloped 156
" with Bacon 155
Franconia 153
French Fried 153
Glazed 156
In Half Shell 155
Lyonnaise 157
O'Brien 156
Pancake 156
PufFs 153
Souffl6 156
Steamed 153
Stuffed with Ham 155
Sweet 157
Boiled 157
Candied 158
Carameled 158
Cones 158
Glazed 158
Mashed 158
Steamed 157
POULTRY 104
POULTRY DRESSING 110
Bread 110
Celery 110
Chestnut 110
Oyster 110
Prune 110
PUDDINGS 267
Apricot 267
" Soufl36 260
Blanc Mange 264
« « Chocolate 264
[366] INDEX
PUDDINGS— Continued
Blanc Mange, Orange 264
« « Pineapple 264
Bread 271
and Butter 275
Brown Betty 274
Butterscotch 273
Caramel 274
Chocolate 274
Cocoanut 273
Custard 273
Fruit 274
Maple. 274
Variations of 271
Cabinet 267
Cake 257
Carrot 269
Cereal 263
Chocolate 270
Supreme 265
Cornstarch 264
Cottage 269
Custard 256-259
Date 265
Fruit 270
Cobbler 267
Cup 267
Custard Sauce 259
Supreme 266
Indian 271
Junket 260
Peach 267
Pears— Stuffed 267
Plum 269
Prune Whip 260
Prunes — Delmonico 266
Puffs 271
Raisins and Bananas 266
Rice 261
Butterscotch 285
Cakes — Sweet 262
Custard 261
Dainty 290
Fruit 262
Molded 268
Steamed 261
Shortcake— Old Fashioned 279
Sweet 268
Tapioca — Cream 262
Fig 262
Thanksgiving 265
INDEX [367]
R
RADISHES— for Garnish 48
RELISHES 315
RICE 68
Boiled 68
" Oriental Method 69
Butterscotch 285
Cakes — Sweet 262
Custard 261
Dainty 290
Fruit 262
Molded 261
ROAST MEAT 93
ROASTING 17
ROLLS 189
Cinnamon 193
Clover Leaf 189
Dinner 189
Entire Wheat 189
Graham 190
Hot Cross 194
Lady Finger 189
Parker House 188
Rusk 194
Sweet 193
Tea 189
Rye 191
SALAD, COMBINATIONS 183-184
SALADS, for Each Day in the Week 171
SALADS, Value in the Diet 168
SALADS, Beets, Stuffed 180
California 179
Casaba Melon 325
Celery— Stuffed 182
Cheese and Pineapple 325
Cucumber and Pimento 179
Fruit 180
" and Celery 180
Macaroni 181
Orange 180
" Jelly 180
Pimento and Cheese 178
Potato 181
Prune and Cottage Cheese 182
Tomato Jelly 181
" and Spinach 178
" Stuffed No. 1 178
[368] INDEX
SALADS— Continued
Tomato StufFed No. 2 179
" No. 3 179
Waldorf 178
Watermelon 181
SALAD DRESSINGS 168
Chantilly 173
Cheese — Cream 174
Roquefort 175
Cooked , 176
Cream 176
French 174
Fruit 176
Horseradish 175
Italian 175
Louis — Plain 176
Rich 173
Mayonnaise 173
Parisian 175
Pepper — Green 174
Pineapple 177
Russian 174
Vinaigrette 175
SANDWICHES 333
Bacon 336
California 336
Caviare 335
Cheese 335
Cheese and Walnut 336
Egg 335
Fig 336
Ham and Egg 335
Noisette 335
Oljve 333
Olive and Cheese 335
Pimento and Cheese 335
Prune 336
Sardine 336
Savory Ham 335
Shell Fish 86
SAUCE, Louis Cocktail No. 1 51
No. 2 51
SAUCES 159
Savory 161
AUemande 161
Bechamel 162
Bread 163
Brown 163
Caper 162
Celery 161
INDEX [369]
SAUCES—Contlnued
Cheese 161
Cream 161
Cream Curry 163
Drawn Butter 162
Egg 161
Giblet... Ill
Horseradish 163
Mint 164
Mustard — Hot 164
Cold 164
Onion 161
Paprika 164
Piquante 163
Poulette 162
Savory 159
Tartare— Hot 162
Cold 165
White 160
Fish 164
Anchovy 164
Maitre d'Hotel Butter 164
Mock Hollandaise 165
Meuniere 165
Oyster 165
Shrimp 165
Tartare— Cold 165
Hot 162
Sweet. 165
Apricot 167
Chocolate— Hot 166
Sultana 166
Custard 167
Foamy 166
Fruit 167
Hard 166
Marshmallow 165
Nutmeg 167
Orange 167
Sabayon 166
Strawberry 166
Vanilla 167
SHORTCAKE, Camp 332
Old Fashioned 279
Sweet 261
SIMMERING 16
SOUFFLES 1 14
Asparagus 1 14
Carrot 116
Chicken 115
[370] INDEX
SOUFFLlgS— Continued
Fish lis
9 Ham lis
Potato 116
Spinach 116
SOUP Si
Broth — Chicken 3
Beef 3
" Mutton 3
Brown — Stock S8
Chowder — Clam 62
Corn 62
Fish 62
Consomme 60
Cream — Foundation Recipe 60
" Tomato 61
Creole 59
Emergency 60
Julienne 59
luUigatawny 58
Onion 59
" and Potato 62
Oxtail 59
Split Pea 61
Without Stock 57
SPAGHETTI A LTTALIENNE 123
SUPPERS— Suggestions for 323
SWEETBREADS 101
Broiled 101
T
TAMALE LOAF 124
TEA — Composition of 32
TIMBALE, Cases 136
Savory 117
Vegetable 117
TOAST 196
French 196
Milk 196
TONGUE, Braised 102
Piquante 133
TRIPE 101
Broiled 102
Fried in Batter 139
TURKEY 104
Braised 107
Roast 106
TWICE-COOKED MEAT 130
INDEX [371]
V
VEAL 93-100
VEGETABLES, How to Cook 142
Artichokes 145
Asparagus, Au Gratin 145
Boiled 145
In Milk 145
Ring 116
Shortcake 145
Beans— Boston Baked 120
Pink Spanish 120-150
Beets — Buttered 146
Cabbage, Boiled 149
Creamed 148
Dainty 149
Hotslaw 149
Quick 147
Canned — Reheating 142
Carrots — Creamed 151
Glace 146
Ring... 116
Celery — Au Gratin 147
In White Sauce 151
Corn — Custard 146
" Green. . . 154
" Pudding 124
Egg Plant— Fried 147
Kohl-Rabi 154
Onions — French Fried 154
Peanut Butter 147
Scalloped 146
Parsnip Cakes 148
Peas — Green 146
"' Maitre d'Hotel 150
Peppers — Green 132
" StufFed 149
Spinach — Boiled 148
Creamed 148-150
Sprouts — Brussels 149
Squash — Baked Cream 148
" Summer 154
Steamed 148
Succotash 146
To Render Crisp 48
Tomatoes — StufFed 150
Turnips — Diced 147
Scalloped 152
Stuffed 151
VEGETABLES— Canning 307
[372] INDEX
W
WAFFLES 200-204
WHIPPED CREAM DESSERTS 282-285
y
YORKSHIRE PUDDINC^ 94
IN all recipes calling for baking powder, insure successful re- sults by using Royal Baking Powder (abso- lutely pure).
It is conceded by do- mestic science teachers and baking experts the world over to be "the most healthful and dependable baking powder made." Royal contains no alum.
I alieays use and can highly recommend Royal Baking Powder.
Belle De Qraf.
Mrs. De Graf's Indorsement o/tfee William ClufFCompany
FOR many years I have used the ClufF Brand of Food Products. My experience has proved to me that they rank among the very best. Whether the need be for Canned Vegetables,Fruit, Sea Food or Spices exceptional flavor and goodness are assured. This fine quality reflects well the extraordinary care in selec- tion and packing.
I wish to especially recommend the genuine Florida Grapefruit pre- served in a delicious syrup which will appeal to those seeking the un- usual. Also the Peanut Butter which I found the best I have ever used.
The discriminating housewife can buy foods bearing the Cluff" label with confidence.
— Belle De Graf
It answers evgy^— —
CHOCOLATE
purpose
Knowing Ghirardelli's Ground Chocolate as I do. it is hard for me to understand why any housewife will crowd her pantry with cake chocolate for baking and cooking, and cocoa for drinking, when Ghirardelli's serves every our pose.
Not only does this chocolate make a flavory and nutritive breakfast'drink but it answers every need for baking and dessert making. Cakes, pud dings, icings, frozen desserts, sauces — you can call on Ghir' ardelli's for a host of dishes, dainty and substantial.
Moreover, GhirardeUi's comes to you already ground, ready to use. No grating, no bother, no time lost. And no waste! You measure off exactly what you need — no more, no less. Indeed, GhirardeUi's is every thing you need in chocolate —everything in one!
ghirardelli's
Telephones:
San Francisco Sutter 6654
Oakland Oakland 1017
Fresno Fresno 2020
Los Angeles South 1970
Portland East 7054
Seattle Main 4271
Tacoma Main 3414
■^S
1,800,000 cups were served at the Panama-Pacific International Exposition.
There arc Caswell representatives
in practically every Pacific coast
community.
Mrs. Belle de Graf
noted cooking authority and culinary expert invariably uses a
\zy
RANGE
to test and prove her famous recipes. We could not ask for nor receive any higher recommendation than this.
Jas. Graham Mfg. Co.
SAN FRANCISCO
ALL MODELS AT YOUR DEALERS
Qn^ key to better meals in every home
/xfter all, successful menus de- pend as much upon the quality of the ingredients as upon the skill and knowledge of the housewife.
Even the most ingenious cook cannot produce fine cakes, pies or breads from poor materials. In all my years of experience, I have had unusual opportunity to test Sperry Products thoroughly — in the class room, in the laboratory, in the kitchen. As a result, I can conscientiously recommend them all as the highest quality. Sperry Drifted Snow Flour can be used for every purpose — from the per- fect loaf of bread to the most deli- cate Angel Cake. While Sperry Red Package Cereals carry the same surety of purity and uniformity.
— Belle DeGraf
SPERRY
"''■?!
i
SPERRY
Sperry Flour
l>^K|E!<MJBiiiHiSaiM2iJ
SPERRY
. ,. ENCORE
PANCAKEFLOl/f
Sperry Products
"I use Bake-Rite Pie Crust Blend inimy own home, and in my cooking classes; and I can recommend it highly.
"For the experienced housekeeper — even th« she makes good pastry— Bake-Rite Pie Crust
=Li|llllllllllilllillll Blend is convenient, easy to use and handy
= to keep.
= "By its use the inexperienced housekeej^er
= can be sure of success, and the elimination
= of wasted material and time."
= Belle De Graf.
Delicious Pies— yvith the crisp,
I flaky, golden-brown crust and I **home made" flavor —
s can be made easily and surely
^ by using
BakeRlte
|[[ PIE CRUST BLENDl
= Pure, wholesome materials specially blended for = = pie crust and pastry. S
1 It contains flour, shortening and every 1 = necessary ingredient (except the water) b = for making rich, flaky pie crust. s
S Bake-Rite Pie Crust Blend makes pie 5 ,
S baking simple and sure. S
1 Order a package from your grocer today. ^
Bake-Rite Consolidated
San Francisco Portland
Los Angeles Oakland
A. PALADINI.inc.
FRESH, SALT, SMOKED PICKLED and DRIED
• • FISH. •
MAIN OFFICE
540 Clay Street, San Francisco
BRANCHES
qSj Market St., San Francisco 520 Washington St.y Oakland Montereyy California
Ask for PaladinVs Sliced and Prepared Abalones Various Ways of Preparing this Appetizing Seafood
FRIED ABALONE STEAKS
Sprinkle abalone steaks with salt and pepper. Beat
1 egg slightly. Dip steaks in egg, then roll in flour or cracker meal. Fry in hot olive oil or butter until a delicate brown on both sides. Cook quickly, as long cooking toughens abalone.
ABALONE CHOWDER
Cut 1 pound of abalone into half-inch cubes. Cut 1 slice of salt pork into several pieces, place in a deep kettle and cook until slightly brown. Add 1 onion sliced thin and cook 5 minutes. Add 2 quarts of boiling water, abalone, 2 medium-sized potatoes peeled and cut in cubes, a pinch of thyme and a bay leaf. Simmer 30 minutes, salt and pepper to taste and just before serv- ing add 2 tablespoons of butter and 1 cup of cream.
ABALONE FRITTERS
Put 1 pound of abalone through a food chopper. Sift together 1 cup of flour, }/2 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon of baking powder. Add abalone and mix well, then add
2 well-beaten eggs. Drop by spoonfuls into hot deep fat or fry in a well-buttered pan like pancakes.
ABALONE SALAD
Cut 1 pound of abalone into half-inch cubes. Simmer in salted hot water until tender. Drain and chill. Add 1 cup of diced celery hearts and 2 tablespoons grated onion. Mix with mayonnaise and serve on crisp lettuce leaves.
VIRDENS CAMPFIRE
PRODUCTS include
hams
bacon
lard
shortpnin^
salad oil
sausage
canned
-fruit;
Good Cookery Starts with Good Food Products
ViRDEN'S CAMPFIRE MEAT PRODUCTS
are produced under United States Government inspection in the most modern and sanitary plants in the West, of unsurpassed wholesome- ness and unequalled deliciousness.
ViRDEN'S CAMPFIRE CALIFORNIA FRUI S
are from the district where each variety is grown to perfec- tion. They are carefully chosen for their rich flavor, firm texture and uniformity of size, and are packed in modern canneries that are models of cleanliness.
VIRDEN
PACKING COMPANY
10 Model Plants in California Executiv Office:
Alexander Building San Francisco
^^N[p matter where you live —
How far you are from clean, wind-swept pasture lands, you can have a dependable supply of rich, pure milk. Libby protects your milk supply.
The can with blue and white pjframid label
Libby,
McNeill &Libby Chicago
f Ofisweeieneii^y
7 tvaporatedN
MilK
•14
•• ■•• w
■■■■»■■■ ■■■■»■■■
■■■■■■■■
-'■■■■ ■■■■■■■I
:;3
■.■■■■
■■■■■■■I
■ £■»■■■
--«■■■■■
■■■■■■■■
■■■■■■■s
■ ■»■!■ Ill
■ ■■■■iiii
■ ■''■.■■■ill