Mia ee pe LLL ALAS TD SVO> SS PLSSSSS SD ILIAD AP XC iS w Oe —E——— if >; C x bas ae foley od ; 2 in mS ee , = - ae _ = 7 oe PS; > 7 = ore ee | = wi Coo Bik Ss POPULAR GARDENING. . WM. HUGH GOWER, Jurseries, Tooting. Mr. JOHN fj. WILLIS, Agricultural Laboratory (Sir 7. B. Lawes, Bart.), Rothamsted, Harpenden. EDITED BY Por’ Pye ASSISTED IN THE PRESENT VOLUME BY . WILLIAM CARMICHAEL, Jate Gardener | Mr. G. S. JENMAN, F.L.S., Superintendent of to H.R.#f. the Prince of Wales. | the Botanic Gardens, Demerara. . WILLIAM COLEMAN, 7%e Gardens, East- | Mr. GEORGE NICHOLSON, Rovat Gardens, nor Castle, Ledbury. Kew. - RICHARD DEAN, Zaling, W. Mr. R. A. ROLFE, A.L.S, Avbartum, Royal . WILLIAM EARLEY, Wford, Essex. | Gardens, Kew. - JOHN FRASER, Kew. Mr. WILLIAM THOMSON, City of London . WILLIAM GOLDRING. Club, London. | Mr. W. WATSON, Royal Gardens, Kew. GAith numerous Jllustrations. Oi, IW. 59669 G@xNSSEEL & COMPANY, EimiteD: LONDON, PARIS, NEW YVORK & MELBOURNE. [ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. | By transtfc) JAN 7 1935 v AZ IBRA TS > \ : ae 1899 Y, PATE. iT gFee OF CONTENTS. INDEX ) BULBOUS PLANTS: PAGE CLIMBING PLANTS (continied) : PAGE Barnardia scilloides—Bellevallia romana—Bessera elegans— Bloomeria aurea — Bobartia auran- tiaca—Bowiea volubilis—Bravoa geminiflora— Brodiza — Brunsvigia — Bulbocodium — Bu- phane—Cailiphruria— Calliprora lutea — Calli- CLIMBING PLANTS: (Hardy) Apios tuberosa—Aristolochia—Bryonia— Celastrus — Clematis— Cocculus—Convolvulus — Coronilla — Cotoneasters— Hecremocarpus — Gualtheria — Hablitzia — Hop — Ipomca— Lathyrus— Lonicera—Lycium—Menispermum — Muhlenbeckia — Roses — Rubus — Smilax— Solanum — Thladiantha— Vicia. (Half-hardy) Akebia— Berberidopsis— Clianthus— Cobea— Cucumis—Cucurbita— Grammato — Holbeellia —Ipomcea purpurea—Lapageria—Lardizabala, —Lathyrus — Loasa — Maurandia — Mutisia — Passiflora — Sollya — Tecoma — Thunbergia — Reidia— Rhopala—Rhynchospermum—Rivinia —Rogiera—Rondeletia—Ronnebergia—Rudgea —Saccharum—Sanchezia— Sarracenia—Scutel- laria — Siphocampylus— Sonerila—Spathiphyl- lum—Stapelia—Stephanophysum—Stephanotis —Stigmaphyllon— Strelitzia—Streptocarpus— Tabernemontana — Terminalia— Theobroma— Theophrasta — Thunbergia — Thyrsacanthus— Tillandsia — Torenia — Toxicophlea — Trades- cantia— Vriesia—Xanthorrhea—Zamia... psyche aurantiaca—Calochortus .. ix eaeioll Tropzolum 371 alostemma — Camassia — Gmeowedons levers) — Chlidanthus — Chlorogalum — Choretis — Co- CONIFERS: burghia—Colchicum—Cooperia—Crinum 101 Abies—Araucaria— Biota—Cedrus—Chamecyparis Crocosma — Crocus — Cumingia—Cyanella—Cyclo- — Cryptomeria — Cupressus — Ginkgo — Juni- bothra — Cypella — Cyrtanthus — Drimia — perus — Larix — Libocedrus— Pinus— Pseudo- Blisena—Erythronium—EHucharis— Eucomis— larix — Pseudotsuga— Sciadopitys— Sequoia— Eurycles—Ferraria—Freesia—Fritillaria 150 Taxodium— Taxus— Thuja—Thujopsis—Tsuga 354 Gagea lutea — Galanthus — Galtonia candicans — Gastronema sanguineum—Gladiolus—Griffinia THE FIG UNDER GLASS: —Habranthus pratensis — Hemanthus.— Hes- Houses — Propagation — Planting — Training — peroscordum eas General Management 226 — Hymenocallis—Ismene—Ixia 210 Culture in Pots—For Dahan cnc Txiolirion — Lachenalia — Leucojum — alee — Diseases and Insects... mAh Merendera — Milla — Montbretia — Morza — Morphixia—Muscari—Narcissus... i 279 «=3°'THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN: Nemastylus—Nerine—Ornithogalum—Paner Bean The Pear: Propagation—Planting 42 — Pentlandia — Phzdranassa — Phalocallis — The Pear: Pruning and General Bop ag—TUiss Placea — Plagiolirion — Polianthes tuberosa— of Pears... : 91 Puschkinia — Rhinopetalum — Rigidella — Ro- The Peach anid Nesta ine 175 mulea — Schizostylis— Scilla—Sparaxis—Spre- The Apricot .. : 2 206 kelia—Stenomesson—Sternbergia—Synnotia— The Plum—The Cherr You 272 Syringodea — Tecophylea — Tigridia—Tricho- The Fig— The Quince — The Grape vine — The nema—Triteleia—Tritonia—Tulbaghia—Tulipa Medlar—The Mulberry we OOL — Urceolina — Vallota — Veltheimia — Vieus- (See also SMALL AND BusH FRUITS. ) seuxia — Wachendorfia— Watsonia—Xiphion — Zephyranthes ... 337 HOT-HOUSE OR STOVE PLANTS: Ficus—Fittonia— Franciscea—Garcinia— Gardenia CHOICE HARDY BORDER PLANTS: —Gomphia—Gustavia—Guzmannia—Hexacen- Aconitum—Ajuga—Anchusa—Antennaria—Aspho- tris a Hibiscus — Higginsia — Holmskioldia — delus — Barbarea — Calandrinia — Callirhée — Hoodia— Hoya— Hypestes— Impatiens— Iso- Caltha palustris—Calystegia—Cardamine ... 38 lepis— Ixora— Justicia— Lasiandra—Lemoinia Centranthus — Cortusa — Corydalis — Dielytra — —Iindenia—Linum ... a 25 Digitalis— Doronicum— Epilobium—Erpetion Mackaya — Macrozamia — Mamillar ia —Manettia— reniforme — Ficaria— Francoa—Funkia—Gail- Maranta — Medinilla — Mimosa — Monstera roa lardia— Helleborus— Hemerocallis — Hesperis Musa — Myristica — Napoleona—Nidularium— —Heuchera—Hypericum ... ‘ ener!) Panax—Pandanus—Parmentiera— Passiflora— Tris—Liatris—Linaria—Linum — iinse cece Paullinia— P avetta— Pavonia—Pentas— Pene- ele iy Cica ria NViimilis Nie. romia— Petrea— Philodendron— Phylagathis rembergia— Omphalodes— Onosma— Orobus— —Phyllanthus—Phyllocactus — Phyllotenium Ourisia coccinea —Phygelius capensis — Phy- — Pilocereus — Pitcairnea — eas — Poin- salis alkekengi— Plumbago—Polygala—Pulmo- ciana— Poinsettia See ea -- 17 naria—Rheum—Saponaria—Tradescantia 236 Portlandia — Pothos — Psychotria — = TReaanrin — 198 iv CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. PAGE HOUSE, AREA, AND WINDOW GARDENING: Double Windows—Wardian and Waltonian Cases — Aquaria — Liverworts — Lichens — Fungi— Algee C Out-door Window Gardedine Syyander Bones anal Balconies a5 192 Vienrindianneuserone Tihany, Paecuees anil Tasik coes—House-tops... ese ae Ab Oo) LYCOPODIUMS ae! es ess wes ae we oon MANURING IN THEORY AND PRACTICE: Manures—Necessity of Perfect Plant-food ... soq.” alls: THE MELON: General Cultivation—Melon-growing by Express... 315 MOSSES ... go6 506 Soc ee bon 50 eee 300 NUTS, WALNUTS, AND CHESTNUTS: The Hazel-nut and Filbert —The Walnut— The Sweet or Spanish Chestnut or ry! $5 GL ORCHIDS : Phalznopsis — Physurus — Pilumna — Pleione — Promenza— Renanthera — Restrepia — Rodri- guezia—Saccolabium... a 65 Sarcanthus—Schomburgkia— Sansone ia— Sobr sip —Sophronitis— Stenorhynchus— Thunia—Tri- chopilia—Trichocentrum— Uropedium— Vanda —Vanilla—Warrea—W arscewiczella — Zygope- talum ... es sei ae i ae Sel O THE PALM FAMILY: Introduction — Acanthophcenix — Acrocomia — Areca — Astrocaryum — Attalea — Bactris — Brahea — Calamus — Caryota — Ceroxylon — Chamzedorea—Chamezrops—Cocos—Corypha— Desmoncus — Hlais — Euterpe — Geonoma — Guilielma—Hyophorbe a5 . 265 Triartea—Iriartella—Kentia — Tatonin — Taga Livistona—Lodoicea—Malortiea—Martinezia— Mauritia — Maximiliana— @nocarpus — Onco- sperma—Phcenix—Phytelephas—Pritchardia— Ptychosperma — Raphia — Rhapis — Sabal — Sagus—Stevensonia — Thrinax—Verschaffeltia —Welfia... te ahs sae Ne sts 3. O2d THE PEACH AND NECTARINE UNDER GLASS: Peach-houses—Propagation, Selection, and Plant- ing ie ‘ iss we aon 30) Demin ononiine leans ze rr LOS General Management... ae wis ae 500, KO) THE POTATO... as ae sas oe Bee ses od: PROPAGATION : Cuttings ae ob eet Ke COS Leaves—Root- cuttings ives aan Ao ee e260 Grafting and Budding ... ae af Be sco 74580) The Formation of Varieties... au a wa. 829 ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, anpD WILD GARDENING: Rooteries ... eee ee a eee sss Bag. keh) PAGE SELAGINELLAS ae 3 sid ie “ee we 378 SMALL AND BUSH FRUITS: The Gooseberry 16 The Currant... ; 80 Raspberries— Blac pees 147 The Strawberry 244 TREES AND SHRUBS: Introduction — Acer— Actinidia—Msculus—Ailan- tus—AInus—A melanchier— Amorpha — Ampe- lopsis—Amygdalus—Andromeda... “ Arbutus — Arctostaphylos — Arundo — Reet — Aucuba—Azalea—Azara—Baccharis—Bambusa —Benthamia—Berberis— Betula — Buddleia — Buxus — Calluna — Calophaca--Calycanthus— Caragana—Carpinus—Carya—Cassandra— Cas- siope—Castanea—Catalpa—Ceanothus — Cera- sus—Cercis—Cistus—Clematis Clethra—Colutea arborescens — Cornus — atone aster—Crategus—Cytisus—Dabeocia—Daphne —Desmodium—Deutzia—Diervilla—Hleagnus —Empetrum — Hrica— Escallonia— Eurybia— Euonymus — Exochorda — Fabiana — Fagus — Forsythia — Fothergilla— Fraxinus—Garrya— Genista — Gleditschia — Gordonia — Gymno- cladus—Halimodendron—-Halesia—Hamamelis —Hedera—Helianthemum— Hibiscus—Hippo- phe—Hydrangea—H eS ere Illicium—Indigofera—Itea... of Jasminum —Juglans — Kalmia— Kerria— Kelr eu- teria paniculata—Laburnum—Laurus—Ledum —Leiophyllum buxifolium—Lespedeza—Leu- cothoe — Leycesteria formosa— Ligustrum — Liquidambar—Liriodendron tulipifera—Loni- cera—Maclura aurantiaca—Magnolias—Meni- spermum — Menziesia — Mespilus — Morus — Myrica — Myricaria — Negundo — Nuttallia — Nyssa—Osmanthus—Ostrya 5 Ostryopsis — Oxycoccos — Oxyilendane ean Paliurus— Parrotia— Paulownia—Pavia—Peri- ploca— Pernettya-— Persica— Phellodendron— Philadelphus — Phillyrea— Phlomis— Pieris— Platanus — Populus — Ptelea — Pterocarya — Pyrus — Quercus — Raphiolepis — Rhamnus — Rhododendron—Rhodora—Rhodotypos—Rhus Ribes — Robinia — Rubus — Ruscus— Salix— Sam- bucus — Sassafras — Shepherdia — Skimmia— Sophora — Spartium — Spirea — Staphylea — Styrax— Symphoricarpus— Syringa— Tamarix —Tilia—Ulex—U!1mus— Vaccinium— Viburnum —Vitis — Wistaria — Xanthoceras— Zelkowa— Zenobia ... (See also CONIFERS.) TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS: Achimenes — Alstroemeria—Amorphophallus—An- chomanes — Anthericum — Ariscema — Bland- fordia — Bomarea — Caladium — Curcuma — Dioscorea — Gesnera — Gloriosa — Godwinia— Hedychium— Keempferia— Littonia—Mantisia —Ophrys—Orchis— Proteinophallus— Sander- sonia — Sanguinaria — Sauromatum — Tropzo- lum—Tydx2a—Zingiber 138 219 288 347 i bo CASso HELLS POPULAR GARDENING. TREES AND SHRUBS. By GerorGE NICHOLSON. N these articles it is = intended to givea series of notes on the more note- worthy trees and shrubs suitable for open-air cultiva- tion in the British Islands. No plant will be included simply because it is new or rare, and only those which can be safely recom- mended for general cul- tivation will be mentioned. ~. Those who have given the sub- ject their study cannot fail to be impressed with the wealth of mate- rial which is neglected by so many tree - planters; in comparatively few places do we find anything like a collection of trees and shrubs. Everywhere we meet with the Common and Portugal Laurels, Box, Laurustinus, &c., and yet there are numbers of plants equally deserving of culti- vation, which by their foliage or flower would add an additional charm to many an English garden, if only their proprietors could be induced to cease from continuously ringing the changes on the old well- known favourites, and to try others, less familiar it may be, but equally meritorious. Amongst deci- duous trees much may be done to beautify the park and pleasure-ground by judiciously planting a selec- tion of the less-known hardy species; some of these 73 ~ee eee are superior in general effect to most of those which are met with every day. Variations in habit, in the form and colour of the leaves—both in a young state and during decay in autumn—are endless, and with but little trouble charming combinations, and fine permanent, as well as novel effects, could be created. No scientific classification or sequence will be followed; the plan here adopted is to com- press into the space at command a series of the best conifers, deciduous and evergreen flowering trees and shrubs. Where many species are mentioned they will, for convenience of reference, be ar- ranged alphabetically, and a short paragraph given to each. The Acers (Maples).— Amongst the numerous genera which are laid under contribution for the de- coration of English parks and gardens, not one affords a greater proportion of thoroughly desirable hardy ornamental trees and shrubs than Acer. Not a few are well known, and deservedly occupy a high rank in the estimation of the landscape gardener ; among those mentioned below, however, are many which are equally as ornamental as the commoner kinds, and in some respects superior to them. The genus Acer contains about fifty species, and is distributed throughout Europe, North Asia, North America, Java, and the Himalayas. Those from the two last- mentioned regions are not hardy in this country ; although some of the species from the Himalayas have to bear in their native habitats much more cold than. they would ever experience in Britain, they, as a rule, commence to grow too soon in this coun- try, and the late spring frosts prove too much for the young tender shoots. For the purpose of the general planter, then, it is intended to omit all men- tion of the species hailing from the regions in ques- tion, and to confine ourselves to those on which 2 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. more dependence can be placed. Asa rule, trees of large size (and many of the Maples come under this category) have very inconspicuous flowers; but several of the members of the genus now under re- view have decidedly showy brightly-coloured flowers; the Norway Maple, with its large clusters of yellow flowers, and the Red or Swamp Maple of the United States, with its deep red ones, being cases in point. Then, for wonderful variety in the form of the leaves, in their colour when growing, and in the autumnal tints assumed by the decaying foliage, the genus probably stands alone. For convenience of refer- ence the species enumerated are arranged alphabeti- cally, and where nothing is said about requirements of soil, &c., it may be assumed that they are by no means particular in this respect, but will thrive under very varied conditions. A. argutum.—This recently introduced Japanese species has long-stalked five-lobed leaves, the long- pointed serrated lobes giving a distinct character to the foliage. The long-clustered racemes of fruits, with horizontally spreading wings, are handsome in the native specimens of this tree; as yet, it has not fruited in this country. Judging from its habit and growth, &c., it will make a small tree with some- what slender twiggy branches. A. campestre.—The only truly native Maple in the British flora. It varies considerably in the size and character of foliage, &c. Under favourable condi- tions old trees often attain a height of thirty feet or more. ‘This does not make a bad hedge plant, and when cut down frequently, the young shoots and leaves are suffused with a vinous-red tint, and the leaves are much more deeply cut than are those of old trees which have not been sub- jected to severe pruning. In gardens there is a variety of this species, with the leaves covered with small specks or blotches of white, peudlverulentum ; and another; Awstriacum, a green-leaved form, with larger foliage, altogether a stronger and more robust plant than the ordinary 4. campestre, which in a wild state occurs in West Asia, and in Europe from Denmark southwards. A. carpinifolium—the Hornbeam-leaved Maple— is a Japanese species recently introduced to British gardens by Messrs. Veitch. It is wonderfully dis- tinct from ordinary Maples in the form and veining of its leaves. In Japan it is said to grow fifty feet in height. A. circinatum is a distinct and desirable bush, with round heart-shaped leaves, with seven or nine sharply acuminate iobes. In spring the long crim- son leaf-scales form a striking contrast to the tender green of the young leaves, and the flowers, too, are conspicuous by reason of the large purplish-red sepals. The rich orange-red tints assumed by the decaying leaves of this species are especially at- tractive. In its native habitats—Northern California to Puget Sound—A. circinatum, forms a tree thirty to forty feet high, but frequently occurs as a bush, forming impenetrable thickets along streams, the Vine-like stems taking root wherever they touch the ground. Under cultivation it grows well in dry, gravelly soil, but by ornamental water, where its roots would have an abundance of moisture, or in richer ground, it would probably grow much faster than in dry poor soils. A. crategifolium owes its specific name to the re- semblance between its pretty dark green foliage and that of the Hawthorn. It isa slender tree, which, when in flower, is a handsome object; it has few- flowered racemes of rather large, white blossoms, followed by peculiar long-stalked, horizontally winged fruits. A variegated form of this, 4. c. Veitchii, is a yigorous garden sport, with finely va- riegated rose and dark green leaves. A Japanese plant, recently introduced to British gardens by Messrs. Veitch. A. dasycarpum—the White or Silver Maple of the Eastern United States —is a fast-growing tree of the first rank for ornamental purposes. Both in its native country and elsewhere, this is now largely planted as an avenue tree and for shade; in early spring the rosy-tinted small flowers clothe the leat- less branches, and cause a group of trees to form a pleasing effect in the landscape. The foliage is a deep green above, and silvery-white beneath; in autumn it turns to a clear bright lemon-yellow. The wood is but of little value, but the graceful habit of the tree, its quick growth, and its hand- some foliage, make it one of the best of all deciduous ornamental trees for the landscape gardener. There is a weeping form (pendula), and another (awreo- variegata) with leaves irregularly variegated with yellow. Amongst the numerous names under which the Silver Maple is mentioned in books, &c., and found in gardens, are 4. eriocarpum, A. glaucum, A, Virginicum. A. diabolicum, a Japanese Maple with large, hand- some foliage, is perhaps better known under its garden name of A. pulchrum ; the large, yellowish flowers are produced in early spring in rather short, clustered racemes, from below the termination ot the shoots; these are followed by large, hairy fruits, with ascending wings. As yet, probably no large plants of it exist in this country, but in Northern France we have seen it of considerable size; it makes a noble tree, with large, ciliated, Plane-like leaves. A. hyrcanun is a neat, compact, slow-growing species, suitable for a single specimen on a lawn, &c.; it has bright red leaf-stalks, and five-lobed TREES AND SHRUBS. 3 leaves, bright green above and glaucous beneath, which in autumn turn to a brownish-yellow. It is auative of Western Asia, and is found in gardens under the names of A. caucasicum, A. ibericum, and A. tauricum. A. insigne—a native of Eastern Persia—resembles the common Sycamore in foliage, but differs a good dealin the inflorescence, which is an erect panicle. This species, too, is very remarkable on account of _ the lateness of the season when growth commences ; it is later in developing leaves than any other Maple, or than even the Oak or Ash; in late spring the large crimson leaf-scales are very conspicuous. A. japonicum is a Japanese bush, with leaves much like those of the United States A. circinatum, and large deep purplish-red flowers. A. Lobelii, from the mountains of Southern Italy, is a distinct Maple, related to the Norway Maple, A. platanoides, but differs markedly in its more erect fastigiate habit, and in the firmer texture and somewhat different tint of its leaves; the young shoots, too, are clothed with a bluish-grey glauces- cence. . A. macrophyllum, a Caiifornian species, has large, downy, Plane-like leaves, and long, dense, pendu- lous racemes of greenish-yellow flowers, which are followed by large, hairy fruits. When in flower, before the full development of the leaves, as well as when in fruit, this Maple is a decidedly distinct and ornamental one; it is, moreover, a very rapid grower. A. monspessulanum, from North Africa, South Europe, and Western Asia, makes a dense round- headed tree, and is ornamental either when clothed with its pendulous pale yellow corymbs, or when laden with its clusters of reddish fruits; the leaves axe firm in texture, and dark green in colour, with three entire lobes. This will grow, and flower and fruit freely, in poor, dry, gravelly soils, but under more favourable conditions will attain a much larger size in the same time; it varies in height from fifteen feet (or even less) to forty feet. A. opulifolium.—A. species very widely distributed throughout the Mediterranean regions; it forms a bush or small tree, with generally five-lobed, red- stalked, hairy leaves. The yellowish flowers are developed from near the tips of the branches, just before the appearance of the leaves. The variety obtusatum is a much stronger grower, and attains a height of forty feet or more; the leaves, too, are larger, of a darker green, and are densely clothed beneath with a rusty-coloured tomentum. The de- caying foliage assumes a rich brown tint in autumn. A. palmatum.—Probably no single species of any deciduous shrub or tree hardy in Great Britain ex- hibits so extreme a range of variation in colour, form and size of foliage, &c., as this, which not untre- quently is met with in books under the name of A. polymorphum. Itisa native of Japan, and like so many of the plants from that wonderful horticul- tural region, it has been cultivated by the Japanese from time immemorial. A good many gardeners seem afraid to trust out of doors the different bright-coloured forms of this beautiful deciduous shrub, but if they were to give them a fair trial the result in the great majority of instances could not fail to be eminently satisfactory. At Messrs. Veitch’s they grow freely in a cold, clayey gravel, on somewhat exposed banks; in other spots they flourish in’a peaty soil. Only a selection of the more remarkable of the numerous varieties are here mentioned ; for a full account of the species and its variations the reader is referred to the Gardeners’ Chronicle for July, 1881. The ordinary type, which represents one group of forms, has generally small, green, deeply five-lobed leaves; the septemlobum group have somewhat larger leaves, with seven or nine lobes; and the dissectwm series have leaves with seven or nine deeply pinnatifid overlapping lobes. Of these three sections there are a regular series of forms varying in colour, &c. Of the palmatum set, A. p. aureum, a good grower, with long-stalked rather large leaves, light green and yellowish when young, gold and orange-scarlet in autumn, is one of the best. A. p. crispum, with red-stalked, curled green leaves, and a habit like that of a miniature Lombardy Poplar, is also both distinct and desirable. Amongst the best of the remaining forms are J. p. linearilobum, with long, almost entire, very narrow lobes, and sports from this bearing distinctive names in nurse- ries, with purple or rich red foliage. Some of the stronger growers of the septemlobum group are used. as stocks on which to graft the weaker growers. The following is a selection of the best and most distinct members; sanguinewm and atropurpureum have red and dark purplish leaves respectively ; s. elegans has narrow deeply-cut lobes, light green in colour, suffused with red when young. S. varie- gatum has young leaves and stalks red, the older ones splashed with rose and white. The dissectum group are all very beautiful plants, with finely-cut, Fern-like foliage; the type has light, bright green leaves ; d. tinctum has the leaf-margins tinged with red, and in d. ornatum the whole leaf is a uniform deep red. A. pennsylvanicum, from the Eastern United States, is best known in English nurseries under the name of Snake-bark Maple. If only on account of the beauty of its bark—which in the young wood is green, beautifully striped with white and black— _ this should be very generaliy grown. It attains a 4 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. height of twenty or thirty feet, with a trunk six or eight inches in diameter; it has finely serrated, three-lobed, heart-shaped leaves, six or seven inches long, by five or six inches broad; when young, hairy on both surfaces—the under one especially clothed with a dull yellowish tomentum—but glabrous when mature. The flowers are greenish, in long, slender, pendulous racemes. A. pictum—a native of Japan and other portions of Eastern Asia—varies considerably in habit, size, &c. The best known, and from a garden point of view the most valuable, of the varieties is A. p. rubrum, familiar to many readers under its nursery name of A. Colchicum rubrum. This form is a strong grower, with brownish bark, and with leaves which, throughout the season, retain a purplish-red tint. The green-leaved state of the variety just named only differs in the colour of the foliage. A. platanoides—the Norway Maple—is a noble tree, with olive-brown shoots, dark glossy-green Plane-like leaves, and yellow flowers, followed by fruits with spreading wings. The type is found throughout Europe, and is one of the most orna- mental of early-flowering trees; it possesses an additional advantage in its leaves being scarcely ever damaged or disfigured by insects. A considerable number of varieties of this fine tree are in cultiva- tion. A. p. laciniatwm is a somewhat slender, spar- ingly branched, small tree, with deeply-cut leaves, crowded at the ends of the shoots. A. p. cucullatum, the Eagle’s-claw Maple, has deeply-cut lobes with the edges turned downwards so as to look like the half-closed foot of a bird. A. p. globoswm is a form with a dense, round, compact head; this keeps in shape and requires no cutting; it is thoroughly suitable for a single specimen on a lawn, or for any spot where a small-growing, formal, round-headed tree is required. A. yp. Schwedleri has large, hand- some, deep bronzy-red leaves, and is one of the best of ornamental foliage trees; it is, moreover, a vigo- rous grower. Similar in character to this last are A. p. purpureumand A. p. Reitenbachii ; they only differ somewhat in their shades of purple-red from A. p. Schwedleri. A, Pseudo-platanus—the Great Maple, Sycamore, or Plane of Scotland—is a native of Central Europe, and Western Asia. Asa forest tree of the first rank, and producing valuable timber, it has been largely ‘planted, and is naturalised in many places. Many varieties have originated either as seedlings or as ‘sports, and the more noteworthy of these are men- tioned here. A. p. Leopoldi has leaves prettily marked with purplish and flesh-colour on a green ground; it is one of the best of the variegated forms. = == A WELL-GROWN HoRSE-CHESTNUT. and lobed leaves. In autumn the leaves of this variety assume a brilliant ruby-red colour; altoge- ther it is a more graceful and smaller plant than the type, which grows from fifteen to thirty feet in height. A. Van Volzemii is a comparatively recent intro- duction from the Caucasus. The foliage is not unlike that of the common Sycamore, from which it differs in the lighter green of the upper and the Actinidia is a small genus of Eastern Asiatic climbers, of which a couple of species have found their way into cultivation. A. Kolomikta is a ree cent introduction; it has stalked, ovate-oblong, pointed, or heart-shaped serrated leaves, which as- sume a beautiful red tint in autumn. ‘> = = = frame. — Ut 4 ledges of 1 ¥ wood are nailed to the | inner sides of ‘II i | the casing, shelves can be laid across for rows of pots to stand upon ; and by having plenty of ledges (fil- lets, as car- penters call them), the shelves can be moved to different distances apart, according to the requirements of the plants. At the bottom of the casing there should be a moyable zinc tray, to catch any overflow after watering, and thus prevent any damage to the carpet. The shelves must be so arranged that the window can readily be opened above and below as required when the weather is suitable. When thisis done, and the folding doors are closed, the plants are enjoying fresh air without draughts. ‘They are also protected from the dust, which is always flying about in rooms; and they re- quire to be watered or syringed much less frequently when they are enclosed in this way. At the same _ time enough air must be given to prevent mildew arising from the atmosphere in which they are e Hi Fig, 21.—Iy-pooR CoNSERVATORY AGAINST A WINDOW. growing being too damp; and if the weather is too cold to allow of the window being opened, then one or both of the folding doors must be occasionally opened, and this should be done at times when there is the least dust flying about. The best time will be after the dust disturbed by the morning sweeping of the carpets has well settled, and when there is the least traffic about the room to stirit upagain. Thus it would be a good time to leave the doors open when you are going for your af- ternoon walk. A modifica- tion of the | double win- dow just de- scribed is shown (Fig. 22), in which the enclosed space only goes up to the middle rail of the window, that is, only half- way up. This arrangement has an ad- vantage over the double window, which goes up to the top, from the fa- cility which it affords of ventilating the room by opening one or. more of the upper sashes, which can be done without expos- ing the plants to any cold air or draught. The front of this case may consist of two doors hinged at the sides, and fastening in the middle, or of one large frame hinged along the top, and, therefore, requiring to be lifted up when the plants require attention. Where the double window is a very wide one, it will be best to divide the front of it into three instead of two doors, making the middle a sliding door, and hinging the other two. It sometimes happens that the window is in a recess, or at the end of a projec- tion of brickwork built out beyond the general face of the house. In such a case a glass partition, with a door in it, converts this recess into a conservatory iy Liane = ill © HOUSE, AREA, AND WINDOW GARDENING. g of a very convenient description, which can be deco- rated very ornamentally with growing plants. In the same way a glass partition may be used to convert a bow-window into a receptacle for plants ever, be conveniently designed for a vestibule, or inner porch of a front door, where there is plenty of light. In all these a variety of plants might be grown in a perfectly satisfactory manner; but with- (Selb ibe iseizeise Seine Fig. 22.—DouUBLE-SASH CONSERVATORY. in pots, in which an invalid may find much amuse- ment without being exposed to wind or weather. The illustration at Fig. 21 shows a bow-shaped conservatory built against a large flat window, and projecting intoa room. It need hardly be remarked that this could only be admissible in a room of large dimensions. A modification of this idea might, how- out knowing the aspect and the amount of available light, it would be impossible to say what plants would do best. All the foregoing examples of in-door gardening under cover have been fixtures. We will now refer to some forms of movable cases, which will be of use to those who wish to do a little horticulture on 10 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. a smaller scale. First among these in usefulness and importance are Wardian cases. Wardian Cases.—In the summer of 1829, Mr. N. B. Ward, of Wellclose Square, London, noticed a seedling of the common Male Fern and a seedling of one of the commonest British Grasses (Poa annua) growing on the surface of some moist mould in a large bottle. Curious to observe how vegetation would proceed in so confined a situation, he placed the bottle, loosely covered with a tin lid, outside one of his windows, with a northern aspect. This cover allowed a sufficient change of air for the preservation and development of the plants, and, at the same time, prevented the evaporation of the moisture within. These plants remained in the bottle for more than three years, during which time not one drop of water was given to them, nor was the coverremoved. ‘The Grass flowered the second year, but did not ripen its seeds. The Fern developed five or six fronds annually, but did not produce any fructification. This led Mr. Ward to experiment on the growth of plants in closed cases, and to advocate the use of glazed boxes for bringing home plants from all parts of the world, and also for growing many kinds ot plants in rooms, which could not otherwise be grown in such an atmosphere. Thus every descrip- tion of closed glass case used for growing plants, from a simple bell-glass to the most elaborate miniature green-house, came to be designated a Wardian case. This plan of cultivating plants in a room is natu- rally more suitable for Ferns and for plants grown for the beauty of their foliage than it is for flower- ing plants, since the latter require a drier air in which to display their beauty. The cheering in- fluences of growing vegetation to an invalid are better known and more fully recognised of late years than they were formerly, and most physicians now admit the beneficial effects, especially in cases of mental depression or derangement. It should, however, be understood that every Fern- case is not necessarily a Wardian case. The princi- pal point in a Wardian case is, that it must be a closed case. It need not be hermetically sealed up, but it must be so far closed that the moisture which evapo- rates from the plants, and condenses on the sides of the case, must run down into the mould again and again. When the sun is allowed to shine upon such a case of plants, evaporation naturally takes place more rapidly than when the plants are in the shade. There is also more evaporation going on in a warm room than in a cold room. But, whatever may be the climate or the aspect of the room, the atmosphere in which the confined plants are growing must of ne- cessity be a damp atmosphere. And further, it will be evident that the quantity of moisture in this atmosphere depends upon the wetness or dryness of the soilin which the plants are growing. This brings us to the conclusion that, while it is simple enough to have a very wet Wardian case, it is also prac- ticable to have one in which there is very little moisture, and, consequently, that an immense variety of plants may be grown in different cases. As Ferns are better subjects for imprisonment in glass cells than most plants, we deem it advisable to furnish a goodly list of species from which to select. In doing this we shall follow the advice given by the veteran ex-curator of Kew Gardens, Mr. John Smith, whose thorough acquaintance with the subject, both botanically and horticulturally, has rarely been equalled, and never surpassed. In his work “ Ferns, British and Foreign,’ he gives a list of species suitable for Wardian cases of ordinary dimensions ; but, inasmuch as the species are enumerated in their botanical sequence, it is very difficult for any one who is not an expert in pteridology to find out whether any particular Fern is or is not suitable for a Wardian case. The following alphabetical arrange- ment of his list will obviate this difficulty :— Acrostichum auritum. Acrostichum bifurcatum, Acrostichum crinitum. Acrostichum lepidotum. Acrostichum peltatum. Acrostichum quercifolium, Adiantum ethiopicum. * Adiantum affine. * Adiantum Capillus-veneris *Adiantum caudatum. *Adiantum chilense. Adiantum curvatum. *Adiantum formosum, Adiantum fovearum, Adiantum fulvum. *A diantum hispidulum. Adiantum lucidum. *Adiantum macrophyllum. Adiantum pulverulentum. *Adiantum reniforme. *Adiantum setulosum. Adiantum sulphureum. *A diantum tenerum. Adiantum villosum. * Anemia adiantifola, Anemia fulva. *Anemia Phyllitidis. Anemia tomentosa. Aspidium anomalum. Aspidium faleatum. Aspidium Lonchitis. *Aspidium mucronatum. *Aspidium triangulum., *Asplenium alternans. *Asplenium Belangeri. *Asplenium brachypteron, Asplenium braziliense. *Asplenium erectum. Asplenium firmum. *Asplenium flabellifolium., Asplenium fontanum. Asplenium formosum. Asplenium fragrans. *Asplenium Hemionitis. Asplenium macilentum. *Asplenium marinum. *Asplenium obtusatum. Asplenium pinnatifidum. _ Asplenium tenellum. Asplenium viride. *Asplenium viviparum. Asplenium zeylanicuim. Blechnum campylotis. Blechnum cognatum. *Blechnum Lanceola. *Blechnum lorgifolium, *Blechnum occidentale. Ceratopteris thalictroides. *Cheilanthes alabameusis. *Cheilanthes argentea. *Cheilanthes capensis. Cheilanthes elegans. Cheilanthes farinosa. *Cheilanthes fragrauns. Cheilanthes hirta. Cheilanthes lendigera. Cheilanthes microphylla. Cheilanthes myriophylla, Cheilanthes multifida. Cheilanthes pedata. Cheilanthes pulverlacea. Cheilanthes radiata. _ Cheilanthes tenuifolia. Cheilanthes tomentosa. Cheilanthes vestita. *Cheilanthes viscosa. © *Davallia bullata, * Davallia canariensis. *Davallia cheerophylla. Davallia cristata. Davallia heterophylla. Davallia hirsuta. *Davallia pentaphylla. Davallia pulechra. *Davallia tenuifolia. Doodia blechnoides. *Doodia caudata. Drymoglossum pilosel- loides. *Fadyenia prolifera. Gleichenia circinata. Gleichenia dicarpa. Gleichenia rupestris. *Gymnogramme calomel- anos. Gymnogramme caudifor- mis. *Gymnogramme chryso- phyla. Gymnogramme Martensii. Gymnogramme peruviana. Gymnogramme pulchella. *Gymnogramme tomentosa. *Hemionitis cordata. *Hemionitis palmata. *Hymenophyllum, all the species. Hypoderris Brownii. Liavea cordifolia. *Lomaria lanceolata. Lomaria L’ Herminieri. *Lomaria Patersoni. *Lygodium palmatum. *Meniscium simplex. Mohria thuritraga. Nephrodium emulum. Nephrodium albo-puncta- tum. Nephrodivm concinnum: Nephrodium deparioides. Nephrodium erythrosorum *Nephrodium glabellum. Nephrodium hirtum. Nephrodium hispidum. Nephrodium mexicanum. *Nephrodium molle. Nephrodium Pica. Nephrodium podophyllum. Nephrodium sanctum. Nephrodium vestita. Nothochlena brachypus. Nothochlena flavens. Nothochlena Marantz. _ Nothochlena nivea. *Nothochlena sinvata. Nothochlena sulphurea. Nothochlena trichoma- noides, *Onychium auratum. *Onychium japonicum. Pella atropurpurea. Pellza calomelanos. Pellea cordata. HOUSE, AREA, AND WINDOW GARDENING. TE *Pellea geranicfolia. *Pellea hastata. Pe!lea intramarginalis, Pellza ternifolia. Platycerium alcicorne. Pleopeltis nuda. Polypodium angustatum. Polypodium glaucum. Polypodium incanum, Polypodium juglandifo- lium. Polypodium Lingua. Polypodium longipes. *Polypodium pectinatum. Polypodium piloselloides. Polypodium propinquum. *Polypodium Schkuhrii. Polypodium sepultum. Polypodium serrulatum. Polypodium squamatum. Polypodium venustum, Psomiocarpa apiifolia. Pteris argyrea. j *Pteris crenata. *Pteris cretica. *Pteris denticulata, *Pteris heterophylla, *Pteris leptophylla. *Pteris longifolia. Pteris palnata. Pteris pedata. *Pteris sagittifolia. *Pteris scaberula. *Pteris semipinnata. Pteris tricolor. Scolopendrium rhizophyl- lum. *Todea hymenophylloides. “Trichomanes, all species. Trichomanes spicatum. Woodsia hyperborea. W oodsia mollis. *Woodsia polystichoides. Those species marked with an asterisk are the sorts in this list recommended for Wardian cases by Mr. B. 8. Williams, of Holloway, and are, therefore, more likely to be procurable from nurserymen than some of the others which are not so marked. The fern market, however, is subject to considerable vicissitudes, and the many recent changes in nomen- clature have also had some effect in bringing certain varieties into more demand under their newer names. No doubt many of the Ferns here mentioned when fully grown are too large for ordinary cases; yet young plants of them are often amongst the most beautiful and suitable ferns that can be used. Fig. 23 on the next page illustrates a Fern-case of simple construction. A shallow box or tray, made of stout wood, and well secured at the angles by dove-tailing, mitring, or angle-pieces, and with holes in the bottom for drainage, should be painted in- side with three or four coats of paint, or with hot tar. The outside is ornamented with smail branches of Hazel or Cherry, cut lengthways, and fastened on in patterns with small brads, or needle-points. The panes of giass are first bound over their edges with stout paper, which is stuck on with thick arrowroot paste, or with weak glue, or size, in which a little coarse moist sugar has been dissolved. When this binding is perfectly dry, the panes of glass can be secured in position by gluing on strips of cloth outside, and by gluing strips of light wood, half an inch square, into the angles inside. A glass shade of this kind can be made very cheaply, and answers as well as more expensive ones for Ferns which do not require a very moist atmosphere to grow in. The species depicted in this engraving are all found growing in comparatively dry situations, and will, therefore, do wellif they are merely protected from dust in a room, Waltonian Cases.—lIf green vegetable matter of any kind is piled up into a heap, and allowed to decompose and rot, considerable heat is produced. It is from this cause that hay-stacks are so liable to be burnt when the grass is stacked before it has been dried sufficiently to have been converted into hay, or when the hay has been stacked in a damp condition. It is upon this principle that heaps of stable litter and manure are made up for growing Melons and Cucumbers, and for striking cuttings and sowing certain seeds which will not germinate without heat. Now, although a window gardener is not likely to think of trying to grow Melons, he is nearly certain to wish to be able to raise some kinds of plants, either from seeds or cuttings, for which a little heat is indispensable, and he is equally cer- tain to entertain a very strong objection to having a manure-heap in his parlour, no matter how small, or how well enclosed and boxed up that heap may be. To meet this want, Mr. Walton designed a small box with a sloping glazed top to it, of the form which gardeners call a frame, but having for its bottom a shallow metal box, capable of holding water, under which the flame of a candle or lamp is placed to warm the water. Seeds and cuttings placed in a case of this description obtain a gentle heat, which starts some into growth when they would not otherwise grow at all, and expedites the erowth of others for which heat is not absolutely necessary. Such a case is, therefore, a great boon to every in-door cultivator. It is not an easy thing for an amateur to make unless he possesses all the tools and appliances for metal work, which few have. And if he is to pay for having this part of the case made for him he may as well, for a trifle more, buy the whole case complete, which he can get from Messrs. Barr & Son, King Street, Covent Garden. If it were customary to keep sitting-rooms ten or fifteen degrees warmer, there would be many very ornamental Palms which might be cultivated, but which are now only seen in the stoves of the wealthy. Some of these may be grown in a 12 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. Waltonian case, and produce a charming effect, such as— Acrocomia sclerocarpa. Astrocaryum aureum. Caryota sobolifera. Caryota urens. Chameedorea elegans. [gusti. Chamedorea Ernesti Au- Chameedorea gracilis. Chamedorea graminifolia. Chamedorea pygmea. Chrysalidocarpus lutescens (Hyophorbe indica). Cocos plumosa. Cocos comosa. Cocos Weddeliana. Demonorops plumosus. Dictyosperma aureum (Are- ca aurea). Dictyosperma rubrum (Are- ca rubra). HKuterpe edulis. (nocarpus minor. Oreodoxa regia, Pheenix farinifera. Rhapis flabelliformis. Rhopalostylis sapida (Areca sapida). The cultivation of Palms is a very simple affair. The most important point is to keep them in a temperature suitable for each kind. Having asso- ciated together in one case some of ‘the species which require the same | average tempera- ture, and taking “Say care that they are SSH = not allowed to be OE in an atmosphere much colder or much hotter, the only other point to be attended to is watering. The soil which suits them best is loam, peat, leaf- mould, and sand, in about equal parts. The pots should be smaller than are generally used for other plants of a similar size, and there should be plenty of drainage. If the soil, the drainage, and the temperature are what they should be, they can hardly have too much water given them. Aquaria.—There is no branch of horticulture so interesting as the cultivation of plants in water, partly because of the opportunity which it affords of seeing the growth of the roots of plants, which process is invisible ordinarily, but particularly on account of the great variety of both animal and veget- able life which can be kept in one pot or receptacle. The word “‘pot” is here used advisedly, since there is no better form of glass vessel for growing aquatics than a tall pot with straight sides, and of any con- venient diameter. If it should appear desirable, for the sake of uniformity, that these vessels should be all of one size, a diameter of six inches will be found to be most generally useful. The height may vary from three inches to two feet, according to the habitat of the plants which are to be grown, for some are found in shallow, and others in deep water, but if uniformity in height is required in the glasses, twelve inches will be found a desirable height. It is important that glass of good quality should be secured, as it is then so much easier to see what is going on. A very good make-shift is to be had by buying the show-glasses which confectioners use in their shop-windows, for holding sugar-plums and other “‘sweeties.”’ If these are to be used care should be exercised, when purchasing them, to pick out those which have the fewest irregularities and flaws in the material, and to avoid, as far as possible, knots and air-bubbles. These are usually sold with glass covers, which fit into the top loosely. Do not discard these, for though they must not be used in the manner for which they were made, they will be useful in two other ways. By laying two thin strips of wood over the top of the ves- sel, and resting the cover on them, much dust will be kept away from the surface of the water while sufficient air will be admitted Fig. 23.—WaARDIAN CASE. for the require- ments of the grow- ing plants. They can also be made available for the cultivation of minute plants, by inverting them and dropping the round knob or handle into a hole in a shelf or block of wood. Having thus described the simplest form of aquaria, one might go on with an endless variety of designs that have been proposed and used for a similar purpose. After these plain receptacles for water-plants, the next best form is an inverted bell- glass, which can be bought of almost any size likely to be required in a room. These stand on a block of wood with a hole in the middle, into which the knob of the bell-glass drops. The advantage of a bell-glass over a confec- tioner’s jar is that it admits of plants of a larger size being grown; the drawback is that you cannot see so clearly what is going on in the centre of the aquarium, owing to the greater body of water that you have to look through. The illustration in Fig. 24 shows a conservatory window, which has been fitted with an aquarium at the lower part of it. This should have three of its HOUSE, AREA, AND WINDOW GARDENING. 13 sides slate and one plate-glass; and it should be so arranged that access can be readily had to the water, so that dead or dying animals or plants may be re- moved as soon as they are observed. The special cultivation of animals in conjunction with plants would, however, require a volume, and is foreign to the purpose of this work. The following British Aquatics could be grown either in-doors or out of doors, provided that they are not exposed to frost. The Foreign Aquatics require a warmer temperature, especially during the winter :— BritTiIsH AQUATICS. Alisma natans — floating, white. Autumn. Alisma Plantago—1 ft. to 2 ft., pale rose. Summer: Alisma ranunculoides—l ft., rosy- white. Summer. Butomus umbellatus—2 ft., rose. Summer { June. Carex se See aa ft.to 2 ft.,brown. Ceratophyllum demersum — fioat- ing, flowers minute. Summer. om i " Ml | Ja Marsh Plants.—There are many interesting plants to be found in boggy and marshy places which may be cultivated without much trouble. They should be potted, not in soil, but in moss; the best kind of moss for the purpose is Sphagnum, of which several species are to be found in bogs and wet localities. Growers of Orchids are well acquainted with it under the abbreviated name of Sphag.; but they use it in a damp condition, while for growing marsh plants we must keep it saturated with water, by standing the pots in saucers and keeping them well sup- plied. As these plants are found in places where dust is an un- known material, it may be imagined that this is likely to prejudice their healthy growth to a serious extent if allowed to accumulate. It will, there- fore, be desirable to wash this tech yussesyersertt WU Fontinalis antipyretica — under off every day with a watering- water. Moss. Hottonia palustris—1 ft., pale purple. June, Hydrocharis, Morsus-Rane—float- ing, white. Summer. Iris foetidissima—l1 ft., violet-blue. Summer. Iris Pseudacorus —2 ft. -, yellow. Summer. Isoetes lacustris — under water. Flowerless. Limnanthemum peltatum (Villar- sia nymphzoides)—fioating, yel- low. Summer. Lobelia Dortmanna —i ft., pale blue. Summer. Menyanthes trifoliata—l ft., white. Early summer. Myriophyllum spicatum — under water, flowers minute. Summer. Myriophyllum verticillatum — un- der water, flowers minute. ay ih atti Summer. Nuphar pumilum—floating, .- ing, white. Spring to yellow. Summer. aut umn. Sagittaria sagittifolia—1 ft., white. Summer and au. tumn. Sparganium ramosum—2ft., brown. Summer. Polygonum amphibium — floating, rose-red. Sum- mer. Potamogeton crispus—un- der water, flowers incon- spicuous. Stratiotes aloides — under Ranunculusaquatilis—float- water, white. Summer. (See also Aquatic Plants.) _Foreicn AQUATICS. Aponogeton distachyon — 2ft., white. January to December. Aponogeton minor —i ft., white. Jan.to December. | Calla palustris—+ ft., white. | Jussiea grandifiora—li ft., yellow. August. Orontium aquaticum—+ ft., flowers scaly. June. Pistia Stratiotes — 3 ft., white. June. July. _ Pontederia cordata—2 ft., Elodea canadensis (Anacha- sky-blue. Summer. ris Alsinastrum) — under | Thalia dealbata—2 ft., blue. water, flowers minute. July. August. | Walisneria spiralis — under Hydropeltis purpurea—tit., | | water and floating. red. y- i 1ft.,orange, Hydrocleis Commersoni | June. (LimnocharisHumboldtii) | Villarsia reniformis—1 ft., —lift., yellow. May. yellow. July. Fig. 24,.—AQUARIUM IN WINDOW. pot having a fine rose; butas prevention is better than cure, it will be the best plan to keep all such plants, when grown in a room, under a cover or shade, thus protecting them as much from the dry air as from the MarsH PLANTs. Acorus gramineus — 3 ft., flowers scaly. February. Caltha palustris—1 ft., golden-yel- low. Spring. Cardamine pratensis—1 ft., pink. April. Gardanire trifolia—l4 ft., white. May. Darlingtonia californica — Nephrodium Thelypteris— 1;ft., purple. September. | 1ft. Fern. Davallia immersa—2 ft. | Parnassia palustris—i ft., Fern. white. July. Drosera filiformis —1 ft., Pinguicula vulgaris —i it., purple. July. violet. May to July. Drosera fotanbona=2 z ft., Potentilla Comarum (Co- white. July. marum palustre) — 2 ft., Epilobium parviflorum — purple. June. 2ft.,purple. July. Eriophorum polystachyon— yellow. May. 1ft., white. Summer. Sarracenia purpurea—2 ft., Galax aphylla—:ft., white, | _ purple. June. July. Saxifraga granulata — 3 ft., Helonias bullata — 1 it, white. May. purple. April. Saxifraga Hirculus—i ft., Hydrocotyle ee ft., yellow. August. white. Summer. Saxifraga purpurascens — Isolepis gracilis — 1; ft. ift., purple. May. . Grass. July. Spigelia marilandica—1 ft., red and yellow. Summer. Lysimachia Nummularia— 1 Spirza Ulmaria—1ft., white. 2ft., yellow. June. Myosotis palustris —1 ft., Summer. _ blue. July. Trillium grandifiorum—lft., Narthecium ossifragum —- white. July. [May. i1ft., yellow. July. Viola palustris—i ft., blue. Mosses.—TIf an indoor gardener wished to take up some unusual branch of horticulture he could not do 14 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. better than try his hand at the cultivation of Mosses. There are two ways of doing this: one is to collect the plants, the other is to sow the spores. In collecting the plants the principal points to be remembered are, not to disturb their roots, and not to bruise the plants in bringing them home. In sowing the spores care must be taken to deposit them upon the. proper soil, whether it be clay, sand, chalk, limestone, or old brick from a wall. In both cases it is most im- portant to arrange that they shall grow in an atmo- sphere as nearly as possible corresponding with that in which they grow naturally. This is doubtless difficult to do, but it can be done ; and one great pleasure in growing them arises out of the ingenuity, care, and attention required to do it successfully. The best mode of cultivation is to place a very small piece in a watch-glass, to place this on a saucer of dried Sphagnum, and to cover the watch- glass with a tumbler, the’edges of which are to rest on the Sphagnum. This arrangement allows water to be put upon the Sphagnum in large or small quantities, or not at all, according as the species may require a dry, a damp, or avery wet atmo- sphere to grow in. Some kinds are too large to be grown in this way, except in the young state, and these must be cultivated in well-drained flower-pots. As objects for the microscope, there are few more beautiful or more full of interest to the careful observer. Whether we examine the germination of the sporules, with their minute white rootlets, or the green filaments which later on cover the surface with a velvet coating, or the cells of the leaves of the fully-grown Moss, some of which have spiral fibres within them, or the fringe of teeth which surround the mouth of most of the seed-vessels, sometimes in a single row, sometimes in a double one, we cannot fail to be struck with the beauty of the objects, many of which can be seen with low powers of the microscope; nor can we help being interested in watching their growth and development. The watch-glass method of cultivation will be found particularly convenient for microscopical ex- amination, since each can so readily be moved on to the stage of the microscope, and returned to its domicile under the tumbler. The following species have been under cultivation, and doubtless many more might be grown equally well. For the convenience of cultivators they are thrown into groups according to the material upon which they grow, and the degree of moisture which they require :— Dry Sort. Bartramia pomiformis. Pottia truncata. Pogonatum alpinum. } | Tortula subulata. Polytrichum juniperinum. Trichostomum homomallum. Pottia cavifolia. Weissia controversa. The third, sixth, and seventh like a sandy soil. Damp Sort. - Atrichum undulatum., | Physcomitrium ericetorum. Didymodon rubellus. Physcomitrium pyriforme. Fissidens taxifolius. | The second and third grow on clay. Wert Sort. Hookeria lucens. | Trichostomum tophaceum. Hypnum cordifolium. Bogs. Climacium dendroides. | Minium punctatum. Dry Rocks anp WALLS. Orthotrichum anomalum. Orthotrichum Hutchinsie. Orthotrichum rupestre. Racomitrium heterostichum Schistidium apocarpum, Septobryum pyriforme. Anomodon viticulosus. Bryum argenteum. Eucalypta vulgaris. Griminia leucophea. Hedwigia ciliata. Hypnum cupressiforme. Omalia trichomanoides. | The last grows on sandstone. CHALK. Hypnum molluscum. | Tortula rigida. Seligeria calcarea. Damp Rocxs anp WALLS. Andrea rupestris. Hypnum plumosum. The last is found on sandstone. Minium rostratum. Wet Rocxs anp WALLS. Fissidens osmundoides. Dicranium pellucidum. Racomitrium aciculare. Anxectangium compactum, Dicranium squarrosum, As there are szbout 576 different kinds of British Mosses, a wide field is here open for making a large collection, which will occupy but little room com- pared with that required for a collection of flowering plants or Ferns, (See also Mosszs.) In a similar way could be grown many kinds of Liverworts.— These curious plants come be- tween Mosses and Lichens in the vegetable kingdom. Amongst them are several species that may easily be cultivated. The commonest form is Marchantia polymorpha, which occurs on wet stones and damp earth nearly everywhere, but especially in sandstone districts. Their green, cellular, fleshy fronds creep over the surface, much in the same way that Lichens grow. Rootlets are emitted from the lower surface of these leaf-like processes, from which rise up the spore-cases on stems about an inch and a half long. This and some other species will grow readily if kept damp. The largest number of plants in this order belong to the genus Jungermannia. ‘These may be recog- nised from their general resemblance to feathery Mosses, from which they differ in having club-shaped fruits, and leaves which are almost transparent. They are found growing amongst moss and grass in damp HOUSE, AREA, AND WINDOW GARDENING. 15 places, some in bogs, some in woods on the bark of trees, some on damp walls, and on the sides of ditches. The fruits when ripe separate into four valves, and discharge spores and singular spiral fila- ments, which are beautiful microscopic objectg. The varied form and structure of the leaves are also well worthy of examination. There would be no difficulty in growing many of these, or, at any rate, in keeping them alive for a long time. Jiccia fluitans is an aquatic member of this order, and is a curious and interesting plant, which is easily kept in an aquarium. These lower orders of plants deserve much more attention at the hands of in-door cultivators than they have hitherto received. Lichens.—It will probably surprise some ama- teurs to learn that there are certain kinds of plants which can be grown on a window-sill, without pots, pans, or vessels of any kind. Yet this is quite true of many Lichens, especially of those which grow on stones and on wood in dry and exposed situations. These plants are of exceedingly slow growth, and many of them assume very various appearances and characters in their different stages. ‘The cultivation of these lowest orders of vegetable life is no new idea ; it was practised successfully thirty years ago in . France, at the Jardin des Plantes in Paris; and to those who possess a microscope the structure and de- velopment of these singular plants will afford, in their examination, instruction and pleasure of no mean order. Those on the bark of living trees are not suitable for our present purpose; but so numerous are the species growing upon flint and other stones, upon rocks and dead wood, that a diligent collector will have no difficulty in furnishing all his window- sills with sticks and stones, and all his servants with wonder at “whatever good they things can be for.” As there are about six hundred and fifty British species, there is plenty to occupy the attention of any one who cares to confine himself to this one, group of plants. Fungi.—As the classification of this large order of plants is so intricate that experts are not agreed upon some parts of it, it will be better for the majovity if we suggest the simpler plan of dividing Fungi into two groups, large and minute, visible and not visible to the naked eye, microscopic and non-microscopic. The visible or non-microscopic division may be se- parated into three groups, represented respectively by a Mushroom, a Puff-ball, and a Truffle. These we do not recommend for cultivation, unless perhaps some of the smallest of the Mushroom group, which occa- sionally come up in a Fern-case, or under a glass shade, and are usually smashed or rubbed off as soon as discovered. If allowed to grow, and watched attentively, they will prove to be full of interest, espe- cially if the assistance of the microscope be invoked in the examination of the anatomy and physiology of these plants. It is, however, with the minute or microscopic division of Fungi that the in-door cultivator will be most occupied. These are represented by smuts, mil- dews, and moulds. They are generally so small that a ‘“‘ forest’? may be grown upon the size of a sixpence. Many of them are found growing in or upon living plants, while a large proportion are only found upon dead or decaying animal and vegetable substances. Their development and mode of fructification are subjects of the deepest interest, and require for their elucidation the most assiduous attention and the, aid of the highest powers of the microscope. It would be almost impossible to search any damp locality without finding some kind of mould or mildew. If a small piece be carefully placed upon the middle of a microscopic slide (a piece of thin glass, three inches long, by one inch wide), and kept under a tumbler on a saucer-full of wet moss, it will keep and grow for a considerable time. A very good plan is to cut circles out of a piece of cardboard with a punch, such as was used for cutting wads for shot-guns before cartridges and breech- loaders were invented. Then with a smaller punch cut a hole out of the middle of the circle; this will make a ring of cardboard, which should be stuck on to the middle of a slide, and varnished over. If a dozen or two of slides are prepared in this way, there is always one ready to receive a specimen of a minute Fungus when found. If deeper cells are wanted, several thicknesses of cardboard may be cemented together. Rings of india-rubber must not, on any account, be used for making cells. Glass cells, made by cutting short pieces off a thick tube, and grinding the surfaces, are very nice, and easily cleaned. The piece can be cemented to the slide with warm Canada balsam. With contrivances of this kind quite a large collection of microscopic Fungi might be grown under a Fern-shade in a sitting-room. Algze.—The fresh-water thread-like plants which come under this denomination are amongst the most beautiful of microscopic objects, amd their life-history is a subject that will well repay attention. Each species should be grown in a separate tube of glass, or tall narrow aquarium. A very small piece thrown into a vessel of rain or pond water will soon grow, provided that it is placed where the sun can reach it, for these minute plants will not grow with- out sun-light. Nomud is necessary for their growth. The green slime often seen in puddles by the road- side is worth collecting and putting into water; a very small piece is sufficient, as it will soon grow. 16 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. Collectors of these Confervee should be provided with a supply of wide-mouthed short glass tubes, having good corks, and some pill-boxes, the latter for dry objects; for Alge are not all aquatic. The green dust which we find on trunks of trees, and on palings in winter, Protococcus viridis, belongs to this order of plants; it apparently consists of a collection of circular green cells, each separate from the other ; and in this respect differs from most other Algze, which are made up of cells joined end to end in a thread- like arrangement. Small patches of a dark green jelly-like substance may sometimes have been noticed upon rocks in wet localities, and upon damp gravel paths in early summer after rain. This is Wostoc commune, and under the microscope is found to be composed of threads of circular cells, with some solitary cells amongst them. In Batrachospermum moniliforme, which is a dark brown mass of wavy jelly, found only in running water, the threads are composed of oval cells joined together by their longer diameters, and these threads are branching. It is called the Frog-spawn Conferva, and is one of the most beautiful objects that can be found for the microscope. It would be very in- teresting to try and grow this, but not easy to arrange for imitating its natural conditions, The green Con- fervee consist of threads without branches, and they float in the water. Their threads are divided into compartments, some long, others short; in some species these divisions contain one or more cells, in others there is aspiral thread. We find the latter form in Zygnema spiralis, a bright green Conferva, which is found growing at the bottom of streams in spring, and in summer rises to the surface, and forms a scum. Any one who would give the requisite time and attention to the growth of these very interesting plants, which are almost the lowest in the scale of the vegetable kingdom, would be amply rewarded for his trouble. SMALL AND BUSH FRUITS. By D. T. FIsH, ASSISTED BY WILLIAM CARMICHAEL. THE GOOSEBERRY. HIS is, without doubt, the king of all the fruits of this character—the most luscious of all the Currant-worts. Whatever may be said of the juici- ness and sweetness of Currants or Raspberries, yet there is a sparkling briskness and freshness, as well as sweetness, about the Gooseberry that far exceeds either of these. Most lovers of Gooseberries are, in fact, often heard affirming that they are second to no fruit that can be grown in our climate. Judging by the enormous quantities consumed by those that love Gooseberries, even this overstated merit may be held to be established. The plant being indigenous is, consequently, one of our hardiest fruits, and there are scarcely any portions of the country so ungenial in © climate, and so poor in soil, as to refuse to grow Gooseberries. This, however, must not be understood to mean that any, even the poorest, soil is good enough to grow Gooseberries to perfection. On the contrary, as we shall see, none can be too good for this purpose. The same, however, can hardly be said of the climate. This may readily prove too hot and forcing for the bringing out of the full flavour of this specially hardy fruit. For the Gooseberry is one of those fruits that must not be hurried. The faster it is grown, the lower its quality. A mean temperature of 55° throughout its period of ripening seems to suit it best. Certain it is that the same Gooseberry from, say, Perthshire and Cornwall is wonderfully different, and the quality is all in favour of Scotland, and against the South of England. Possibly the:ex- cess of heat carries the conversion of the acid of the fruit into saccharine matter rather too far, thus going round or back towards acidity again. Be that as it may, there can be no doubt of the fact that the further north, in reason, the better and sweeter the Gooseberries, and vice versd. Next to an excess of heat, a scarcity of water is the most fatal to full flavour in the Gooseberry. Possibly the reduced rainfall in the South, as con- trasted with the North, is at least full half the reason of the inferiority of the Gooseberies in the southern portions of the country. It has almost seemed at times as if the flavour of Gooseberries were washed rather than shined into them. As regards the latter, many Gooseberries of the thinner - skinned varieties cannot bear much direct sunlight without serious injury. It scalds or burns them, and so lowers or ruins their flavour, and sets up incipient fermentation within the substances of the fruit; and hence the wisdom, especially in dry districts, such as East Anglia, of making the Goose- berry a sub-crop under Plum or Apple trees, or, where this is impracticable, growing it on north walls or borders. There are other advantages in choosing these aspects besides those of shade, coolness, and moisture. It keeps the Gooseberies back in the spring, and this often saves a crop. For hardy as the Gooseberry is in a dormant state, no sooner does it break into half-opened leaflets than the first frosts blacken the young fruit, and there is an end of the crop for that season. However, the shade must not be overdone. For example, though Gooseberries on north borders or walls may acquire the highest flavour, if fully exposed to the light, those overhung by Apple, Plum, or other trees, are frequently of very inferior quality. SMALL AND BUSH FRUITS. 17 Propagation.—There are four easy methods of propagation—by seeds, cuttings, layers, and suckers. The first is used for new varieties, the second is the usual mode, the third and fourth are easy and sure methods. Taking the last first, as all Goose- berries are grown on their own roots, of course each root-sucker sent forth is already a Gooseberry-bush, which only needs detaching to form an independent plant. Suckers, however, are not popular, and are not thought so fruitful as plants raised by other methods. Andas it is bad form in culture to allow the development of suckers, this mode of propa- gation may be dismissed. No plant roots from layers more readily than the Gooseberry. In most localities each branch that leans on the ground emits roots, and layers itself into an independent plant, and if about midsummer the tips of the shoots are inserted two inches in the soil, each will develop a great tuft of roots before the end of the season. In layers thus formed, of course the current of the sap is reversed; but this is not found to be of any moment or inconvenience in practice. The branches may also be layered as already pointed out for Roses. Unless for new varieties, seeds are not resorted to as a means of propagation. They take about four years to come into bearing. The seeds should be sown in the open so soon as ripe, as they vegetate in less time when not over-dried. The next year they may be lined out into rows a foot apart, and nine inches asunder in the rows, and left in these till they are wanted for final planting. But the orthodox mode of propagation is by cuttings, and the best time for inserting them is the latter end of October or beginning of November. Nice pieces of the current year’s wood should be chosen, and if heeled off from older wood so much the better for the cutting. Reduce it to a length of from nine inches to a foot. Remove all the buds from the base upwards, leaving two or three on the top of the cutting. Insert with a spade, as described for Rose cuttings (Vol. I., p. 211), and at similar distances, and tramp them firmly in. The cuttings should not be more than from four to six inches deep in the ground. Some recommend longer cut- tings, inserting them at greater depths; but this is - injurious to the future growth of the plant. Ninety-five per cent. of Gooseberry cuttings will grow, and they should be lined out to wider distances, two feet by one foot or more apart, the following autumn. Planting.—As to soil, the Gooseberry is by no means particular. It mostly does well enough m old kitchen gardens, rich in humus, and full of manure. Its favourite soil, however, is a rich 74 friable loam, deep and moist rather than dry, well enriched with farmyard manure. Anything like stagnant water, however, must be avoided, or the Gooseberries will soon manifest symptoms of jaun- dice—that is, the leaves and even young shoots will become yellow. ‘The site should be cool, and in the south partially shaded. Gooseberries, however, must not be overhung by dense trees either in the south or the north. The farther north, the more open and exposed should the bushes be. The best time to plant is the end of October or beginning of November, for reasons already given under Planting of Apples. As to distance, the old orthodox distance of six feet by four for bushes and pyramids has hardly been bettered. Cordons on walls may be of all the various forms used for Apples and Pears, and may range from seven inches apart for single, to eighteen inches or two feet for double, and yet further dis- tances for multiple, or upright U or other shaped cordons. (For mode of planting, &c., see APPLES.) In the final planting out of Gooseberries, great care should be taken to remove all buds from the roots or stems, as single-stemmed bushes are not only more fruitful, but far more effective than those with two or many stems. Gooseberries make very effective pyramids, and these on rich soil should not be planted closer than nine or twelve feet apart if they are meant to reach a height of from seven to ten feet. The distance, however, should vary with the quality of the soil; the richer, as a rule, the further apart; the poorer, the closer the plants should be placed together. After planting, staking, mulching, and watering should the weather prove dry, should be promptly attended to, so as to allow the plants to start into growth at once. The plants should in no case be planted deeper than the earth-line indicating their first depth in the cutting state. As the roots of the Gooseberry are numerous, care should be taken in planting not to huddle them together, but to distribute them regularly throughout the soil. The roots are also in an abnormally active state in winter, and should not be exposed to the air one moment longer than is needful. They should also be surfaced over with a frost and drought resisting mulch so soon as planted. Pruning.—Volumes might be filled with what has been written on this subject; and the practice varies still more widely than the theories. One or two general principles may, however, be referred to. The first is, never prune a Gooseberry-bush or tree when it is planted. Let one pruning of all trees— at one time, whether of roots or tops—suffice. And this reminds us that the Gooseberry was systemati- cally root-pruned before fruit-trees in general were 18 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. subject to this mode of culture. The older cultiva- tors, who went in for monster Gooseberries, believed in keeping the roots at home by triennial or frequent root-pruning, and providing some rich food, such as night-soil, for them within a yard of the stems. The practice was to bare the roots and note their character and ramifications. Those that had wan- dered too far, or dug down too deeply, were cut off, lifted up, or brought back within a distance of from one, two to three feet of the stem, and re-planted in tresh and rich composts. In addition to this, a trench, a foot or eighteen inches wide, and as much or more deep, was made all round the root-run of the bush, and this was filled with rich compost, and occasionally rank manures, such as cow-dung, night-soil, and even carrion, if any were available. Nothing was considered too rich or strong for the Gooseberries. No doubt, in this way, they suffered at times from an excess of manure; but when the composts were mixed with judgment and applied with skill, wonderfully fine growths and enormous Gooseberries frequently resulted. Neither is the practice of applying carrion to fruit-trees and bushes yet abolished. Only last summer the writer was favoured with samples of some extraordinarily fine Apples from a farmer. On inquiry as to the cause of their unusual size, the answer was, ‘“‘ Everything that dies on the farm goes to the fruit-trees and bushes, and this tree had a dead horse cut up and buried round it two years ago.”” Without commending these practices, such facts may possess a special interest to some readers. If at a loss to dispose of a dead fowl, rat, or mice in quantity, the Gooseberry-bushes might grow finer berries were they to bury such small fry over their roots. Certain it is that the root-runs proper, and the trenches formed around them, were speedily filled with fresh roots in a few months after such roct- liftings, prunings, and feedings as here described. Another great advantage of these periodical prun- ings was that the cultivator always knew where to find his Gooseberry -roots, as they were seldom allowed to stray more than a yard ora trifle more from the stem. Hence, when special feedings or waterings were resorted to, it was easy to supply both food and drink in the right place, and so that the roots were sure to find it, and make the best of it at once. As to other pruning, it necessarily has two objects in view—the formation of the bush, and the growth of the finest fruit. The first point is the height of stem. Most prefer from four to six inches of clear stem, some a foot or more as the least that should be allowed. On dwarf cuttings one leading shoot should be trained up the first season, to form the stem, which should be run up straight to the desired height. Pruned in the autumn, at least three buds should be left on its crown. These form the basis of the future bush, whether it is to be open-centred, a * pyramid, standard, or what not. The shoots produced from these buds should be shortened back to about six Inches next autumn, and from each of these a couple of shoots will be led the following season. These may be tied to a hoop, to keep the centre quite open, or mould it into the form of a vase. These leaders may be laid in at the rate of six or more inches a year, and other shoots may be taken from them to fill up the bushes as the area of the circle widens. All other shoots should be close- spurred in the autumn, that is, cut back to within an inch or an inch and a half of their base. In hot, dry localities, however, the spurs may be left longer, soas to provide more shade for the fruit. In these, too, the pyramidal is the better form for Gooseberries. The formation of pyramidal Gooseberries proceeds on the same lines as that of Apples or Pears. A central leader is tied up to a stout stake and led up from the front. From this all the side shoots are led off horizontally or at an angle of wide diver- gence from it. The length of leader left, and the number of side shoots started from it in one ‘year, must be largely determined by the vigour of the plants, and the quality of the soil. The lengths may vary from six inches to eighteen, and the number of shoots from three to six, nine, or evenadozen. On an average, a nine-inch length of leader, and from three to five side shoots, will enable the bush to make rapid progress without becoming bare or thin at any part. 'These formal pyramids also look most artistic when their base is lifted a foot or so off the ground. Pruned into this form at starting, and kept in good shape afterwards, Gooseberry pyramids are as artistic as they are prolific and satisfactory. There is, however, a much more free-and-easy method of moulding Gooseberry-bushes into rough pyramids. Several shoots may be led up from the root-stock, keeping one, however, well ahead of all the others for a centre. By pruning annually with a view to the maintenance of the pyramidal form, the shape may be preserved with a minimum of pruning, and an enormous yield of fruit. But this, as pruning necessarily does, leads us on to— Training.—Now, as already stated, the Goose- berry may be moulded into all the forms assumed by other fruit-trees albeit in miniature. There is one very striking form seldom adopted, but one of the most beautiful of all, that is a dwarf standard, with the stem a yard or morehigh. This is a most useful form for town gardens, and is admirably adapted for such varieties as the Ironmonger and Warrington, that droop back to earth again, thus forming weep- SMALL AND BUSH FRUITS. 19 ing plants of great beauty, studded with their high- coloured, prettily formed fruit. Gooseberries confined to single stems—cordons, in fact—planted in rich deep soil, may be trained over arbouries, six feet high, and are admirable for the clothing of dwarf espalier rails and walls. Cottages and outbuildings, wooden, wire, and other fences, also furnish excellent positions for the growth of Gooseberries, trained horizontally or ver- tically at from six to nine inches or a foot between the leading branches. Trained over such surfaces, carefully spurred and well fed, it is astonishing how long the Gooseberry will continue to clothe them with verdure and beauty, or cover them with plenty. Numbers of places, too small or cramped for an Apple, Pear, Cherry, or other fruit-tree, yet afford sufficient space for the growth of one, two, or several Gooseberry-bushes. In the case of cottage walls, a good plan of training can hardly be better described than that of cutting an ordinary and rather freely- grown Gooseberry - bush in two, and backing the divided lines against the walls. From this point almost any course of pruning and training may be adopted—that of close-pruning all the shoots but the leaders in the usual way, or that of merely thinning out the last year’s shoots, and leaving many of them at full length, or a foot or more in length. These shoots will bear berries from base to summit the following season, and the yield is enormous. For, instead of a Gooseberry wall, there is a Gooseberry thicket extending a foot, eighteen inches, or even two feet or more from the wall, as the bushes acquire age. Carefully thinned and well fed, such bushes continue to thrive and produce enormous crops for years. Similar methods of free-and-easy training are often adopted on dwarf or other espaliers, the plants being permitted to broaden out a yard or so, instead of a mere double-faced line of fruit and foliage from four to six inches wide. There is another method of pruning Gooseberries, which consists in giving them their heads one season, and pruning them back closely the next. In such cases it is wise to divide one’s stock of _ bushes into two equal divisions. Leave the greater portion of the young wood, almost or altogether, full length; in fact, leave them wild one season. Should the spring prove genial, and the birds for- bearing, the bushes will be covered with fruit from base to summit on the last year’s wood. LHarly in October cut most of these shoots sharp back to within a bud or two of their base-buds. Next year they will yield a small crop of fruit on the old spurs, and a fine crop of young shoots. It is obvious that by having two sets of bushes, one making wood and the other producing heavy crops on that mace the year before, and treating all alike in succes- sion, abundant crops will always be forthcoming. Doubtless these and other free-and-easy methods tend to mar the perfect form of Gooseberry- bushes ; but, after all, abundant produce is to be preferred tc symmetry ot form, and the biennial pruning instead of annual insures enormous crops. Nor can our remarks on training be complete with- out reference to the use of the Gooseberry as a hedge plant for the formation of boundary Imes around, and better still, dividing lines between, gar- dens. No one familiar with cottage gardens and allotments but must have regretted the loss of space and produce entailed by the too often prodigal use of White-thorn, Privet, Beech, Black-thorn, Maple, and other fences. Any of these or other hedge plants exhaust the soil as much and cumber it pro- bably more than a hedge formed of Gooseberries. For forming hedges, the plants may be put in closely, a foot or so apart, and encouraged to grow intoa wide base, tapering to a point at top. It is not needful even for defence, nor desirable for profit, that the Gooseberries should be so dense in their centres, nor so smooth on their sides, as hedges of White-thorns. But Gooseberry hedges a yard wide at the base, and varying in height from three feet to five, will form sufficiently safe dividing-lines be- tween gardens. If planted in good soil a yard wide and deep, and the surface of the hedges left, say, six inches lower than the surrounding surface, and all house-slops, sewage, drainage of pig-stys, &c., ap- plied to the Gooseberry- bushes during dry, hot weather, the plants would be maintained in vigour, and the crops developed into good size and high quality. In the case of dividing-lines, there might be a difficulty in fairly dividing the produce were each to claim his own side, and hence the fairness of measuring the hedges into two equal parts length- ways, each occupier to have the same length of hedge. A few stakes along the centre line suffice to start Gooseberry hedges straight and true, and the chief attention afterwards is to run the knife or shears over them in July, and again in October or No- vember. General Culture of the Gooseberry.—This consists in the prompt removal of suckers or misplaced shoots, in keeping the surface soil free of weeds, and liberally mulched with manure, in pointing or fleetly forking it up in the autumn, partially turning in the mulch, and adding fresh; in flooding the roots with sewage or manure, or clean water, in dry weather ; in thinning the fruit, and carefully preserving it from the ravages of wasps and birds. - The breast- wood should also be fore-shortened early in July, unless in hot, dry localities, when it is better left full length until the fruit is gathered. From three 20 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. to six buds should be left on the young wood, while the points of the shoots are thus removed. These can be cut back at the winter pruning to one or more buds. Special Culture. or otherwise, have been subjected to more minute and special attention. So particular are the fanciers of big Gooseberries that almost every branch, leaf, and berry has had special and specific culture. For example, those who insisted on perfect cup or vase-formed bushes spared no trouble or expense in obtaining the desired form by the use of a hoop two ‘feet or a yard in diameter, placed round the branches a foot or so from the ground. But when these proved insufficient for their purpose, it was no uncommon thing for every leading shoot ‘or important side shoot to be held in its exact position by two stakes: one a hooked stick or crome ‘to keep the branch down, and the other a forked stick to keep it up, and hold it firmly in one position. In other cases, two or more hoops were used: one ‘to tie all the leading shoots down to, and the others to hold or mould the sides into shape, and hold them fast until age and growth stiffened the boughs ‘into rigidity. Each branch was thus forced into and kept in what was considered the best place alike for effect and fruit-bearing ; and any spray or leaf upon it that did not contribute to either result was at once re- moved. The berries were not only thinned with as much care and judgment as those of Grapes, but fed and stimulated with as much diligence and skill as live stock for show. The fruit, while fed through the roots by means of all sorts of solid and liquid manures, were also fed through their rinds as far as that was possible. _ As to root-feeding, the following, among other means, are adopted. A mulch of fresh cow or pigeons’ dung, several inches in thickness, is formed round the bushes, in the form of a basin, with ats lowest point converging on the stem. This is finished with a smooth surface, and into this cup, formed of strong manure, there is poured daily in dry weather a gallon or so of pure or manure water, thouse-slops, or sewage. Another common method is to cover the entire surface under the bushes with strong and frequently-stirred farm-yard or other manure, and to sprinkle the surface of these with water at least twice a day, giving them in addition a thorough soaking of soot, guano, or other artificial or natural manure water once or twice a week. Thinning, Weighting, and Suckling In- dividual Gooseberries. — In all cases where fruit of an ounce, ounce and a half, or more are Few or no plants, fruit-trees © desired, the fruit must be very severely thinned, leaving only one fruit where six or even a dozen* might be grown. The best-shaped, stoutest-stemmed, best-placed berries should be selected, and these should be weighted by fixing small pieces of lead or stone, weighing half an ounce or more, to the corolla on the end of the berry. Thus selected and weighted to increase the sap-drawing and appropriating power of each berry, these may be yet further enlarged by a series of processes to which the general term of suckling has been applied with more or less appro- priateness. They consist in keeping the fruit moist by capillary attraction, through winding one end of a woollen thread round the stem of each fruit, the other end being thrust into a bottle or basin of water; by placing open pans of pure or manure water beneath the bushes, and suspending small cups or saucers of the same beneath each fruit, as well as the use of rank manures and mulchings already de- scribed. The bushes are also sprinkled over-head two or three times a day. In a word, no labour, care, or skill is considered excessive that results in producing the monster Gooseberries, so often ridi- culed, but which are really triumphs of skill and trophies of culture and perseverance. Varieties.—These are very numerous, though of late years but few additions have been made to their © numbers. Two causes have prevented many seed- lings from being raised—one, that the varieties are already too numerous; and the other, that it is diffi- cult, if not impossible, to better many of the existing sorts. Fortunately Mr. Carmichael assists us by his large experience to pick out the cream, though after his very best it may be allowable to have another dip into the wonderfully good new milk left. - Setect List oF RED GOOSEBERRIES. Clayton— fruit large, and | London—fruit very large, bears freely; a good va- | flavour good; a fine ex- riety. | _ hibition variety. Crown Bob—fruit large, of | Speedwell—fruit large, fla- good flavour, and a great | vour first-rate, and good bearer. bearer. Dan’s Mistake—fruit me- | Talfourd—fruit large, fla- dium size, handsome, | vour good; a fine late bears freely, flavour good. | variety. Sevtect List oF YELLOW GOOSEBERRIES. California—fruit large, fla- | one of the best Yellows, vour good, bears freely; and good bearer. a late variety. | Mount Pleasant — fruit Catherina—fruit large, fla- | large, bears freely, and vour first-rate, and hand- | very richly flavoured. some fruit. | Trumpeter — fruit large, Leveller—fruit very large, | flavour good, and bears | freely. Sertect List or GREEN GOOSEBERRIES. General—fruit large, bears | Matchless — fruit large freely; a good late va- bears freely, and good riety. flavour. Lofty — fruit large, very | Thumper — fruit large, fia- richly flavoured, and bears vour good, and bears freely. freely. SMALL AND BUSH FRUITS. 21 Sevect List or WHITE GOOSEBERRIES. Antagonist — fruit very large, one of the best for exhibition, and good bearer. Bright Venus — fruit me- dium size, sugary, and rich flavour, and hangs till it shrivels ; and good bearer. Careless — fruit very large and handsome, flavour good; bears freely. Freedom — fruit large, fla- vour good, and bears freely, King of Trumps—fruit large, flavour good, and free bearer, Lady Leicester—fruit large ; a good early variety. Whitesmith — fruit large; one of the best Whites, first-rate flavour. Dessert Goosebei ries. Tronmonger—medium size, first-rate flavour, and bears freely. Keen’s Seedling — medium size, and of first-rate quality, and great bearer. Pitmaston Greengage—fruit small, very sugary, and rich. It keeps well. Red Champagne—fruit me- dium size, flavour very rich, tree erect, and a good bearer ; a well-known variety. Red Warrington — fruit above medium size; a first-rate variety, either for dessert or preserving, also one of the best keep- ing. It will hang on the tree if protected till the fruit shrivels. SUPPLEMENTARY List oF GOOSEBERRIES. Red. Overall. Rifleman. Roaring Lion. Rough Red. Slaughterman. Wilmot’s Early Red. Yellow. Broom Girl. Conquering Hero, Early Sulphur. Glenton Green. Golden Drop. Yellow Champagne. Yellow Smith. Rough Green. Green London. Surprise. Matchless. Telegraph. White Monster. Snowdrop. Queen of Trumps. White Champagne. Snowball. White Lion. . Twenty-four of the Heaviest Goose- berries for Exhibition. — The following are among the heaviest Gooseberries ever grown :— Monster Rep GOOSEBERRIES. BCU GY pss ey watts RUERBUGI Gn eee ss; G2. 55 Conquering Hero. 30 ,, 34 dwts. Lion’s Provider 30dwts. London 30t0 35 ,, Ploughman .. 30 ,, Monster GREEN GOOSEBERRIES. Green London 27 dwts. Green Overall. . 27 ,, WCAG CES iets tee 5 2D a ptockwell 3 3. 30°, Shiner (the heaviest Green Boowlersy) os dwts. Thumper .. ” Monster YELLOw GOOSEBERRIES. Drill (probably the largest Gooseberry in cultivation, and of fair quality) . 82 dwts. Catherina . . . 32 dwts. Leveller .. SOs Mount Pleasaut. Sly a5. Pilot es ay) ae 80 Monster WHITE GOOSEBERRIES. Antagonist . . B@arclesss,i> . . 81 ,, Freedom... . 29 34 dwts. Hero of the Nile. Kingof Trumps. 28 _ ,, Snowdrop 3). 34 «,, The greater portion of these large sorts, if gathered in time, are capital for tarts or bottling, among the very best for the latter purpose being Cheshire Lass, Dan’s Mistake, Queen of Trumps, Companion, and the Yellow Rumbullion, the latter being grown very extensively for this purpose, for which it is thought more suitable than the Green variety of the same name. For converting into preserves, there are, perhaps, no better Gooseberries than the Rough Red and the Warrington, though the Yellow Globe and Sulphur are also largely used for this purpose. In most of the very large varieties the percentage of juice to rind is too high for making a satisfactory jam, and Green and White are apt to prove wanting in colour, though, as to that, a good deal depends on the sugar and the making. Cultivation in Pots and Tubs.—As the Gooseberry fruits freely in a small state, and may be grown for years without exceeding a yard in height or diameter, it readily yields to pot-culture. It is. found in practice that a ten or twelve-inch pot, or a one or two-gallon cask, or old packing-box or basket, will grow Gooseberry bushes well, and not a few cottagers, who have little or no garden, have long practised this method of producing them, and some of the most fruitful and amazingly perfect Gooseberry bushes seen by the writer have been those of such. fertile sorts as the Yellow Sulphur exhibited at flower shows in pots. Pot up the plants in October or November, using exactly the same soil or slightly richer than that recommended for the open air. Plunge the pots overhead, and mulch the surface of the pots with four inches of soil or manure for the winter. They may be placed where desired in yard, balcony, or on leads for the summer, and if the pots can be placed in others a size larger, should they have to stand in the sun, so much the better. In any case mulch the surface with cocoa-fibre refuse or moss if near to a living-room, with manure if not, to retain the mois- ture and preserve the roots cool. Gooseberries in pots must never once be permitted to flag for lack of water, and if specially fed and treated as advised for those in the open, they will yield good crops of ex- cellent quality for many years in succession. They may also be grown in cool, shady back yards, or vacant spaces on the north and east sides of dwell- ing-houses, stables, or other buildings, where few other plants would thrive, and scarcely any fruits could ripen. One special caution must be given to those who attempt the culture of Gooseberries in novel forms and positions, and that is to beware of birds on the buds or at the fruit. Frequent sulphur, soot, or lime dustings, er one smear, will protect the former, and close netting the latter. Birds often seem to ignore fruit-buds or fruit in fresh places, but when they do espy them they mostly attack with such violence and force as to make a clearance in a very short time, the writer having once a dozen Peach-trees in tubs cleared of buds in about an hour ; 22 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. and the birds are equally ravenous on sweet Goose- berry-bushes, either in bud or berry. Diseases. — The Gooseberry on good soil is entirely exempt from disease of any sort. Unless the soil is too stiff or too wet, it continues in the most robust health for many years, being, in fact, one of our longest-lived fruit-bushes or trees. On such unfavourable soils as here indicated its leaves show, by their excess of yellow in the green, that the plants are declining in health, and the stems are apt to get cumbered with moss and lichens, which are injurious to the plants. The soil or site, or both, should be changed, and local reme- dies, such as smears of hot lime and soot, applied to the stems and branches, to clear them of moss and other incumbrances. Insects.—These, from their number and voracity, furnish a sad per-contra and set-off against the im- munity of the Gooseberry from disease. The worst ofall is what is termed the Gooseberry Caterpillar— that is, the caterpillar of the Phalena vauaria. In reality, however, there are, at least, three caterpillars that play sad havoc with the leaves of the Goose- berry. ‘There are, in addition to the one just named, the caterpillar of the Magpie Moth (Adrarus grossu- lariata), and the larve of the Gooseberry and Currant Saw-fly (Wematus Ribesii). They vary con- siderably in size, colour, time of appearance, and mode of operation. But the net results of their attacks are very much the same—bushes wholly or partially defoliated, the leaves riddled in all direc- tions, or the whole of them destroyed but the mid- ribs, main nerves, or petioles. The first-named, or the last, is generally the first to appear, and this is followed by the caterpillar of the Magpie Moth, while the larva of the Gooseberry Saw-fly seems ubiqui- tous throughout the season. Remedies.— The most efficient remedy consists in dealing with the insects in their pupa state. The pupe of the Saw-fly especially are mostly deposited near the stem of the bushes, and may be destroyed by removing the soil to a depth of four inches all round them, and burning it, or burying it to the depth of two feet or a yard. A simpler method still is to dress the roots with a compost or mixture, con- sisting of cinder-ashes, lime, soil, and soot, about four inches deep, or, better still, spent tan, fresh out of the steep in the tannery. These two last either poison, or fix the pup or chrysalides in, so that death may make an end of them. Yet another mode con- sists in fixing them in by mere pressure—that is, firm treading with the feet, patting with the spade, or the use of a mallet or rammer. Another series of remedies succeed in rendering the bushes so nauseous and distasteful to the moths,_ that they decline to lay their eggs or deposit their larvee on the leaves. Powdered soot, sulphur, tobacco, salt, lime, guano, liquid manure, sewage, tobacco-water ; poisonous powders, such as hellebore and sugar of lead, and preparations of nux vomica and arsenic, paraffin and other mineral oils, am- moniacal liquor, weak brine, and other substances, prevent the moths from converting the branches into breeding-grounds. So soon as the leaves that have been infested fall from the bushes, they should all be picked uv and burned. But the best remedy is really vigorous and per- sistent picking off of the caterpillars. By beginning so soon as the first appears, and keeping well ahead or on the heels of the different broods, it is astonishing how soon they may be picked off, and prevented from multiplying to any seriously destructive extent. Wasps and birds are also at times most trying among the Gooseberries. Fortunately the former never touch them until the berries are almost over- ripe. When the finest varieties give out their vinous odours, the bushes not seldom become more like wasp- hives than honest Gooseberry-bushes. So attractive are the Gooseberries in that state, that it becomes dangerous to attempt to gather them for the ex- cited and infuriated wasps. The only remedy is to destroy the wasps, or keep them out by the use of hexagon or other netting. But this is seldom effectual unless it is raised a foot or two above the bushes. Letit at any point touch the fruit, and the wasps, allured by the close proximity of the fruit, will quickly cut their way through the strongest netting, virtually sawing the textile fabric asunder with their sharp mandibles. Wider meshes will exclude birds. But when about it, it is better to enclose a whole row or brake with wasp-proof as well as bird-proof muslin or other sub- stances, for the wasps will skeletonise the fruit, leav- ing nothing but the skins, even faster than the birds can devour it, and they must be destroyed or kept out at all hazards. But the birds must be kept from the buds as well as the fruit, as otherwise the bull- finches, tom-tits, and other birds will make such raids on the sweet buds, that there will be few or no ripe berries for either wasps or birds or the culti- vator in the autumn. ‘There is no better means of saving the buds than several overhead soot-dustings after a shower, or on mornings when the bushes are’ heavily dewed over, with half-and-half of quicklime and soot. Fortunately, too, a good proportion of the fruit is gathered before either birds or wasps care to eat it. The use of green Gooseberries, notwithstanding the enormous consumption of Rhubarb, is daily extending, HOT-HOUSE OR STOVE PLANTS. and probably a full half of all the Gooseberries grown are consumed or preserved in a green state. Itisa eood practice to thin these off the whole of the bushes when the crop is heavy, instead of, as is gene- rally done, stripping a certain number of bushes for the supply of green, and leaving, as a rule, far too many on the bushes left to ripen. Some prefer the green fruit very small, as the larger they are the more acid. But if gathered before attaining a third or a fourth of their normal size, they are prone to prove about as insipid as a tart, pudding, or Goose- berry fool made of leaves or shoots only, were that possible. The surest way to enjoy Gooseberries is to eat them off the bush, and if this is impracticable, then gather and serve directly, as few fruits suffer more, or more sudden deterioration, from being kept after gathering, than ripe Gooseberries. HOT-HOUSE OR STOVE PLANTS. By WiLtu1Am HucuH Gower. Ficus.—This family contains many handsome- leaved plants, and, commercially, it is a most impor- tant genus. From fF. Carica comes the delicious fruit known as the Fig, a slight alteration from the Hebrew feg. Another species, F. elasticus, pro- duces a very large quantity of “rubber,” whilst F. indica is the famous Banyan Tree of India. The taajority of the species have thick and leathery leaves, which renders them proof against the gas and changes of temperature in the dwelling-house, and thus, with Palms, they form beautiful objects for in-door decoration. They are all plants of easy culture; pot in a compost of about equal parts loam and peat, with a little sand added. Ficus grow more quickly in the stove, but thrive admirably in Fittonia.—A small family of Acanthads of pros- trate habit, remarkable for the extreme beauty of their leaves. They are easily cultivated, their chief requirements being heat, moisture, and shade. Pot in loam and peat, with a little sand. Stove. F. argyroneura — Jeaves nearly ovate, about four inches long; bright shin- ing green, the whole of the veins being silvery- white. Peru. F. gigantea—this species is more robust than the preceding, and produces leaves double the size; the ground-colour deep green, covered with a network of soft clear rose. South America, F. Pearcei — leaves about four inches long ; bright shining green; the veins all rich reddish-carmine, rendering it very attrac- tive. South America. F'ranciscea.—A handsome genus of Scrophu- lariacee ; this must not be confounded with Francisia, which belongs to a very different order. These plants are free-growing, abundant bloomers, and also very fragrant. We have seen young piants of Franeiscea grow and flower most abundantly when potted in leaf-mould only, but for large plants it is advisable to add a small portion of peat, loam, and sand. They are mostly spring or early summer flowers, and should be re-potted after the blooming season is past, and placed in a strong moist heat, stopping the shoots about every half-dozen joints made. About twice stopping in the season will suffice. When growth is finished the plants should be removed to the Intermediate House, and again brought into the stove as the flowers may be re- quired. This genus is now named Brunfelsia. with age. Winter and spring months. Brazil. Hopeana — sometimes called uniflora—a small- F. calycina—leaves dark shining green; flowers in large trusses; purplish- lilac. Spring months. Brazil. F. contertiflora—leaves deep green ; flowers in terminal trusses; deep purple when first open, fading to soft blue and lilac with age. Spring and early summer. Brazil. F, eximia—flowers not so large as calycina, mea- suring some two inches leaved species, with soft blue flowers, changing with age to pure white; it is a most useful plant for small stoves, as its fragrant flowers are pro- duced in abundance dur- ing the mid - winter months. Rio Janeiro. F. Lindeniana—flowers deep rich purple, with a dis- the Intermediate House. F. dealbata—a slow-growing plant, with somewhat obovate-acuminate leaves; deep green above, snowy- _ white beneath. Upper Amazon, F. elastica — the India- rubber Tree—is too well known to need a lengthy description; its large, dark green, shining leaves render it very ornamental in any position. East Indies. F. exsculpta—a distinct and beautiful form, with ele- gant sinuate leaves, of a rich green. South Sea Islands. FE. Parcelli—leaves oblong- acuminate, thin in tex- ture; the ground-colour light green, irregularly marbled with deep green and white. South Sea Islands. F. religiosa—the “ Pippul Tree;” this handsome species has bright green, nearly cordate leaves, which are lengthened out into long tail-like points ; it is extremely ornamen- tal. East Indies. F. stipulata—this is an ele- gant Jittle trailer, with dark green leaves about an inch long; it fixes it- self to a wall or any similar object, and forms a beautiful screen ; insects do not like it, so there is no trouble in keeping it clean. East Indies. tinct white eye. Spring across; these are deep ena months. Brazil. violet, changing to blue Garcinia.—A genus belonging to the Guttifere. It contains many plants of commercial importance, and, as we shall not have occasion to refer to the order again, a passing notice may be given to some of them, especially as they are handsome-foliaged plants. Garcinia Morella is the producer of the best gamboge, which is also yielded by Xanthochymus pictorius ; Monorohea coccinea, of Jamaica, produces a valuable gum; Mammea americana produces a fine dessert fruit, which is also preserved; Pentadesma butyracea is the Butter and Tallow Tree of Sierra Leone; the Mangosteen of the Indian Islands, Gar- cinia Mangostana, is the most delicious of Eastern fruits. This plant is a native of the Moluccas, and 24 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. has been introduced and cultivated in the Malay Archipelago, but all attempts to fruit it on the Continent of India have been futile, and yet in England .it has been brought to yield its delicious fruit in perfection, which are about the size of a small Orange, and Chestnut-brown when ripe; the flavour is a compound of Melon, Pine-apple, Peach, and many other luscious and refreshing fruits, and it is perfectly wholesome. G. Mangostana is a strong-growing plant, with opposite leaves about eight inches long’; these are thick AN and coriaceous in texture and | ) deep green; the leaves or stem, if bruised, yield a yellow gum, lke gamboge. Pot in loam. Molucca Is- lands. Gardenia.—These plants belong to the order Rubia- ec@, and are universal fa- vourites, on account of the delicious fragrance of their flowers; popularly they are known as ‘Cape Jasmines,” although really natives of China. Gardenias enjoy an abun- dance of heat and moisture, and where practicable should (o } — Zl. Wy ‘ee ZES \ required should ke done just as the growth begins, in order that the plants may reap the full benefit of the new soil. In the case of Gardenias planted out in a stove by themselves, the various changes of temperature can be obtained by lowering the fire- heat, and admission of more air. Gardenias when treated in this manner soon grow into large bushes, and yield a profusion of their choice flowers. Pot in equal parts of loam, peat, and well-decomposed manure, adding sufficient sand to make the whole feel gritty. There are other species of Gardenia besides those here described, belong- ing to a.separate section, with mostly long tubular flowers, Wi the best of which are G. Stan- LES leyana (now Randia maculata), G.octomera, and G. globosa. G. citriodora — somewhat slow- growing, produces flowers re- sembling in size those of the Orange, with a delicious frag- rance. Winter. Brazil. (Cor- rectly, Mitriostigma axillare.) G. florida intermedia—leaves op- posite, deep shining green above, paler below; flowers double and pure white, deli- ciously fragrant: Winter and spring months. China. G. Fortunei—a strong - growing plant, resembling the preceding in general appearance, but twice as strong in growth, and the flowers double the size, with the same exquisite perfume. Winter and spring months. be plunged in bottom heat, China, the old-fashioned dung-frame suiting them admirably ; next to this the heat and moisture of the tropical stove is the best substitute. While grow- ing they enjoy an abundance of water, both to the roots and over the foliage from the syringe; but they must not be sprinkled with water overhead when in bloom, or the delicate, pure white flowers soon stain and turn brown. During the growing season they must be shaded from the brightest sunshine, and, after growth is complete, removed to the Intermediate House for a short time, from whence they may be returned to the stove from time to time as they may be required, in order to keep a succession of bloom, instead of having them all at once; after blooming is over, if desirable, prune them, but as the plants are tolerably well cut back (especially when ladies gather the blooms) during the flowering season, and moreover, Gardenias seldom grow too large for the family requirements, it will be advisable to prune only just sufficiently to keep the plant in good form and properly balanced. Any re-potting or surfacing 'G. radicans major—a dwarf com- pact-growing kind, with oppo- site, small, deep green leaves ; flowers very freely produced, and like the others they are pure white and deliciously per- fumed. Winter and spring months, China. : Z A <.18 PLANT as FICUS ELASTICA, Gomphia.— A genus of Ochnaceeg, which are mostly shrubs or small trees, with simple alternate leaves, and producing very showy flowers. Pot in loam and peat, with a little sand. Stove. G. Theophrasta — a bolder- growing species than the preceding; the terminal panicles are much branched, covered with large, rich, golden-yellow G. olivaeformis (decora)—a very handsome, but little- known, flowering shrub, with alternate, broadly lanceolate, coriaceous, dark shining green leaves, and large terminal pan- flowers. Spring and sum- icles of brilliant yellow mer months. South flowers. Spring and sum- America. mer months. Brazil. Gustavia.—A genus of noble flowering shrubs belonging to the order Barringtoniacee. They enjoy strong, heat and moisture, and should be potted in two parts loam, one part peat, and one part leaf- mould. Stove. HOT-HOUSE OR STOVE PLANTS. o8 G. gracillima—of this species its introducer says, ‘‘It is one of the grandest and most remarkable flowering plants of recent introduction.” The leaves are linear- lanceolate, toothed at the edges and deep green; the flowers are produced from the axils of the leaves, com- posed of eight large petals, and measuring four inches across, the colour being a rich rose, the tube yel- low, and the numerous anthers deep purple. Sum- mer months. Columbia. G. pterocarpa —leaves ob- ovate acumi - nate, slightly toothed at the edges, deep green; flowers large and pure white. Sum- mer months, French Gui- ana. G. urceolata— Leaves ob- ovate lanceo- late and acu- minate, deep green; flow- ers about six inches in diameter; pe- tals creamy- white; the interior of the flowers suffused with rose; anthers yel- low. Sum- mer months. French Gui- ana. Guzman- ie. A small family of the Pine- apple order, requiring the same general treatment as Aichmea— which see (page 57, Vol. ITT.). Besides the one here described, other good kinds are erythro- lepis, grandis, Regine, &c. Stove. G. tricolor.—Leaves arranged in a rosulate manner, sheathing at the base, bright light green, the whole plant having a beautiful vase-like appearance; the spike rises from the centre of the plant a foot or more high ; flowers pure white, enveloped in bracts, with scarlet apex, the lower ones pale green, streaked with purplish-black, and tipped with red. Summer months. West Indies, &c. Helico- nia.— These areextremely ornamental plants either in or out of flower; they belong to the: order Musa- cee, and re- quire con- siderable space to de- velop their beauties. Pot in loam, peat, and well- decomposed manure, in about equal. parts, drain well, and wa- ter freely. Stove. H. aureo- striata—hav- ing somewhat the habit of Musa chinen- - sis; thebroad leaves are deep green, transversely veined from midrib to margin with orange - yel- low. South Sea Islands. H, humilis. — Bold and handsome, the petioles and blade of the leaf reaching from four to six feet high; the blade, oblong-lanceolate and pale green, is about two feet long; the scape shorter than the petioles, and bearing numerous distichous boat-shaped bracts of a brilliant crimson-scarlet, which last for several weeks in full beauty ; the flowers small, and hidden \ 26 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. in the bracts. Summer and autumn. French Guiana. H. metallica—attains a height of about eight feet ; blade of leaf about two feet long, oblong-acuminate, upper side deep satiny-green, beneath rich vinous- purple. The boat-shaped bracts are green; flowers large and showy, deep scarlet, tipped with white. Summer and autumn months. Santa Martha. Hexacentris.—A small genus of evergreen climbing Acanthads of great beauty having much the appearance of, and now included under, the Thun- bergias.. Trained up a pillar or rafter, or upon an umbrella-shaped wire trellis, few plants can excel them in beauty. Pot in equal parts of light loam, leaf-mould, peat, and sand. These plants enjoy an abundance of heat and moisture when growing; during winter less of both will suffice. H. mysorensis.—Racemes long and _ pendulsus, flowers large, rich yellow, bordered with crimson. In the variety dutea, the flowers are wholly deep yellow. Summer months. Last Indies. Hibiscus.—A genus belonging to the Rose Mallow family, containing many species and varieties, remarkable for the extreme beauty of their large trumpet - shaped flowers; of vigorous constitution and rapid growth, they are very effective when used for covering a bare wall in a lean-to stove. Peat and loam in about equal parts. H. Cooperit.—A somewhat small-growing plant, with both beautiful foliage and flowers; leaves deep green, flaked and striped with rosy-red and white ; flowers carmine. Summer months. South Sea Islands. H. rosa-sinensis.—This species and its varieties are widely distributed, being found in India, China, and through the islands of the South Seas ; the flowers when bruised quickly turn black, and are used by the native ladies for dyeing their eyebrows, and also for polishing boots, hence it is frequently called the ‘Shoe-black Plant.’ Leaves bright shining green ; it produces an abundance of its large trumpet-shaped flowers, which are of a brilliant scarlet; it is a very variable plant, hence some have double flowers, the colour being yellow, white, purple, &c. A few of the finest forms are: brilliantissimus, fulgidus, Colerii, miniatus semiplenus, puniceus, vivicans, zebrinus ; they are almost perpetual bloomers. Higginsia.—Handsome dwarf-growing plants, all natives of South America, belonging to the order Rubiacee ; when first introduced they were known in gardens by the name of Campylobotrys. Flowers inconspicuous, fohage maryellously beautiful. Their dwarf habit should make them favourites with those having but small space. Pot in peatand sand, drain well, and keep the atmosphere well charged with moisture. Stove. (Now named Hoffmannia.) H. argyroneura — leaves covered with short fiery- broadly spathulate, plait- red hairs. ed ; very deep green, with H. refulgens — leaves ob- a metallic lustre; under ovate ; the upper side rich side reddish-purple. deep green, suffused with H. Ghiesbreghtii— this is reddish-crimson, pale red perhaps the tallest species, beneath. but it can be easily kept H. regalis—this is a very fine down by judicious stop- species ; leaves roundish, ping ; leaves broadly ob- ovate, and plaited ; mid- long; dark velvety-green rib white; ground-colour on the upper side, pur- a deep rich olive-green, plish-red beneath, There suffused with a beautiful is a variety called varie- grey and purple lustre; gata, having the leaves reverse side vinous-red. flaked with creamy-white. H. smaragdina—leaves spa- H. pyrophylla—leaves spa- thulate, plaited, and of thulate, plaited; deep a uniform, bright light green; the upper surface green, Holmskioldia.—A small family of Verbenacee, one species only of which we shall introduce here ; it is easily grown into a good specimen. Pot in peat and loam. Intermediate House in winter, afterwards stove. H, sanguinea.— A compact shrub with smooth, deep green, cordate leaves, crenate at the edges; it produces dense terminal racemes of bloom nearly a foot long, the flowers conspicuous, the calyx being large and deep blood-red in colour. Winter and spring months. East Indies. Hoodia.—A small genus of Aselepiadacee, from South Africa; they have fleshy stems, with many angles, somewhat resembling the Columnar Cereus in habit, the angles furnished with long spines. ‘This, and its kindred genera, have not flourished so well since the disuse of flues in favour of hot-water pipes, the drier heat of the former suiting succulents. Pot in loam, broken brick, and lime rubbish ; water care- fully through the growing season, but entirely with- hold it in winter. H. Bainii.i—A most interesting plant. Stem erect, leafless, ribbed, the ribs bemg formed by rows of nipple-like tubercles, each of which when young is armed with a long deflexed spine, which falls off with age; flowers, two or three together, from near the top, campanulate, nearly three inches in dia- meter, with five small equidistant points on the edge; colour yellowish-buff, suffused with pink. Native name, “ Wolves’ n’ Guaap.” Summer months Karrao, South Africa. H. Gordonii.—Stems clustered, tapering upwards, ribbed, leafless, profusely armed with stout yellow spines; flowers campanulate, with the edges re- flexed, double the size of the preceding; soft lemon-colour suffused with pink, ornamented at the base with a circle of reddish-pink dots. South Africa. HOT-HOUSE OR STOVE PLANTS. Hoya.—These are handsome twining or creeping plants, belonging to the Swallow-wort family, Ascle- piadacee, popularly known as Wax-flowers, from their thick wax-like blossoms, which are disposed in large umbels. Pot in peat and loam, adding a few nodules of charcoal, drain well, and allow Ca them to have the full benefit of sun andlight. Stove. H. australis — an elegant climbing species, with orbicular leaves, and large simple umbels of waxy- white flowers, suffused with pink in the centre. Latesummer and autumn. Queensland, &c. H. bella—this is not a climb- er, but forms a beautiful pendent bush, and should be grown ina hanging bas- ket; leaves small, flowers inaxillary umbels; waxy- white, centre crimson. Summer. East Indies. H. carnosa—the most popu- lar of allthe Wax-flowers ; leaves deep green, fleshy ; umbels many - flowered. These are very waxy in ap- pearance, creamy - white suffused with pink. This climbing species may be grown in a green-house. Summer months. China. H.coriacea—strong climber, umbels large; flowers yellowish-butf, the centre crimson. Summer. Java. H. coronaria — a robust climber; producing um- bels of very large flowers, which are pale yellow, the centre marked with fine bright red dots. Late sum- mer and autumn. Java. 4. Cumingiana — a slender climber with closely-set leaves, umbels pendent; the flowers tawny-yellow, brownish = purple in the centre. Spring and sum- mer. Borneo, &e. H. imperialis—a very robust climber, and the largest- flowered species yet intro- duced; flowers waxy, reddish-brown. Summer months. Borneo. H. ovalifolia—a climber; flowers large, yellow with a red centre. Summer inonths. East Indies. H. Paxtonii — an elegant pendent basket plant,with umbels of pure white wax- like flowers with a pink centre. Summer months. Hypoestes. — The following are all that are worth growing of this genus; they belong to the Acanthads, the name coming from hypo, “under,” _ and estes, “ covered.” The fact of the bracts hiding the calyx probably suggested the name. The genus is closely allied to Eranthemum and Justicia. Inter- mediate House. 27 HI. aristata.—A showy and much-branched shrub, some two or three feet high; leaves ovate-acute, and dark green; flowers in clusters from the axils of the leaves, and on the points of the lateral branches, rosy-purple, striped and spotted with purple and Hoya IMPERIALIS. white. Winter months. Algoa Bay, South Africa. HH. sanguinolenta.—The leaves are highly orna- mental, three to four inches long, about an inch and a half broad, deep green, the primary veins broadly banded with purplish - crimson ; flowers on terminal spikes, rosy-purple and white. Winter months. Madagascar. Impatiens.—A very large genus, containing’ nearly all the plants be- longing to the order Geraniaceé, I. Balsam- ina, the common garden Balsam, is a familiar example; these plants are remarkable for the force with which the valves of the seed-pods separate and throw the seeds to a great distance, and to which the only English species owes its name, I. noli-me-tangere, or “ touch-me-not.”’ Impatiens are all soft- wooded, free in growth and abundant bloomers ; they require to be fre- quently stopped to make bushy plants, and cut- tings should be struck from time to time in order to maintain plants of a suitable size, when it becomes necessary to discard the old ones. Pot in a mixture of loam, leaf-mould, and rotten manure, drain well and water freely. Intermediate House. I. flaccida—a free-growing compact plant, bearing a profusion of its large flat purple flowers, nearly all the year round; in the var. alba the flowers are pure white. Ceylon. I. Hookeriana — a robust shrub, with pale green leaves and large white flowers, streaked with erimson. Winter months. Ceylon. I. Jerdonie—stems short, 28 much gwollen, and dark brown; the flowers are axillary and produced near the top, these are bright red and yellow, with a tinge of green, and very conspicuous. Very little water during winter. Summer months. Hast Indies. CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. with dark green leaves and bright yellow flowers. All the summer. Ceylon. . Sultanii—an elegant free- growing plant, with flat brilliant crimson flowers, produced in the greatest abundance all the scason. There is also a white variety. Zanzibar. J. carnea—stems swollen at the joints ; leaves opposite, ovate -lanceolate acumin- ate, pale green; panicle terminal, dense; flowers soft flesh-colour. Winter J. speciosa—a fine species ; tube of flowers very long, colour purple. ‘ Summer and autumn months. East Indies. Correct name, Peristrophe speciosa. I, repens—a trailing species Isolepis. — A large family belonging to the Cyperacee, said to contain about 200 species, the majority of which are not attractive. Propagated by division, growing alike freely in stove or warm ereen-house. The only one we here introduce, J. gracilis, is a pretty plant with deep green slender and pendent leaves; it is largely used for decorative purposes, for draping large pots, also as a basket plant. Ixora.—This genus, which belongs to the order Rubiaceeg, ranks among the most gorgeous of stove shrubs. The name is said to come from Jswarra, the Hindoo god, large quantities of the flowers of J. coccinea being carried to the temples as an act of devotion. Many of the finest are species intro- duced from their native woods, while many others equally good, or better, are of garden origin, which are more hardy in constitution and require less heat. Ixoras may be said to resemble a Laurus- tinus somewhat in habit, with smaller opposite dark green leaves; the flowers are salver-shaped, that is, consist of a long slender tube and a flat-spreading limb, and are produced in large globose corymbs during the summer months. Potin peat, drain well, supply liberally with water both to roots and foliage, and keep them in a high temperature. I, amboynensis — corymbs very dense; flowers deep orange. Amboyna. 1 I. ambrosia—bright orange- salmon. I. bella—light salmon-pink. I. Chelsonii—bright orange- salmon, shaded with pink. I. coccinea—intense bright Ih, red, Java. I, Colei—corymbs very glo- bose; pure white. I. concinna—bright salmon, salmon, suffused with scarlet and violet. javanica — soft delicate orange. I. picturata — rich bright orange, changing to buff. I, Pilgrimii—orange-scarlet, suffused with crimson. salicifolia — a distinct plant with long and nar- row Willow - like leaves ; corymbs very large; clear bright orange - scarlet. changing to salmon-pink. Java. I. decora—yellow, sutfitused I. splendida—rich orange- with rosy-red. crimson. I, Dixiana—a very deep orange. I. Duchess of Teck—rich I. Williamsii—corymbs very large ; reddish-salmon. Justicia. — A genus of soft-wooded plants be- longing to the Acanthads; they produce showy flowers in terminal spikes. After flowering they should be cut back hard, in order to induce young growth low down, and thus prevent them having bare stems. For treatment see Eranthemum. Intermediate House. : and spring. Rio Janeiro. J. thyrsiflora—a handsome J. coccinea — leaves ellip- plant with brilliant scarlet tical; panicle terminal ; flowers. Spring months. flowers bright scarlet. East Indies. Winter. South America. J. venusta — leaves ovate- J. flavicoma, correctly acuminate; panicle large Schaueria calycotricha ; and dense; flowers rich flowers yellow. Summer purple. Spring months, months. Brazil. East Indies. Lasiandra.—A genus of Melastomads, of free growth and producing handsome flowers; these, however, are rather fugacious, and are not therefore useful for cutting, but as ornaments in the stove they are simply invaluable, the colour being a sort of deep mauve or purple, a desirable contrast. We introduce one species only in these pages. Pot in loam and peat in equal parts, adding a little sand. Intermediate House. L. macrantha.—Truly a magnificent kind; the leaves are ribbed and entire, bright green ; flowers produced in large panicles, each flower upwards of five inches across, and intense deep purple. Summer months. Brazil. (Now named Pleroma macranthum.) Lemonia.—A small genus of Rue-worts; the species named ZL. spectabilis is now called Ravenia, and is a handsome shrub with ternate dark green leaves, producing from their axils numbers of beautiful rose- coloured flowers, which remain long in full beauty. Pot in loam and sandy peat, and place in the Tempe- rate House. Autumn and winter. Cuba. Lindenia.—A genus of Cinchonaceous plants, with somewhat the habit and appearance of Gar- denias when not in flower, and thriving under the same treatment; they are destitute, however, of the delicious fragrance. LI. acutifolia.—The leaves oblong-lanceolate and acute, slightly tomentose, dull green; flowers axil- lary, tubular, pure white; tube slender, about four inches or more long; the limb flat and spreading, scarcely an inch across. Spring months. Vera Cruz, Mexico. L. riwalis.— A larger plant than the preceding, leaves some three inches long, lanceolate acuminate, smooth, bright green above, paler below; flowers pure white, tube upwards of five inches long, limb one to two inches across, flat and spreading. Spring months. Guatemala and Mexico. Linum.—A large genus of plants which give the name to the order Linacee ; it contains many species that are showy border flowers; and L. usitatissimum, which is only known now as a cultivated plant, pro- HOT-HOUSE OR STOVE PLANTS. 29 duces the flax of commerce. This plant must have mummy-cloths of ancient Egypt are found to be been cultivated from the most remote times, for we made from the fibre of this plant. LINDENIA RIVALIS. read in Scripture that when Egypt was sorely troubled We have noticed the genus here, however, to in- with its plagues, ‘‘the flax was smitten,” and that troduce one species, LZ. trigynuwm (and not tigrinum, “Joseph was clothed in fine linen;” whilst the asitis too often erroneously named), which if pro- 30 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. perly grown forms one of the most valuable plants It is not, however, really a for winter decoration. Linum at all; its correct name being Reimwardtia trigynum. Start the plants early in the spring, grow on in an Intermediate House, stop the shoots often ; keep the atmosphere well charged with moisture, as red spider is the great enemy of this plant. As the shorter days of autumn approach, remove them to «a warmer house, when the flower-buds will soon appear and maintain a brilliant display through the whole winter. East Indies. THE PEACH AND NECTARINE UNDER GLASS. By WILLIAM COLEMAN. S these two fruits belong to the same genus, - Amygdalus Persica, they are always classed and cultivated together ; indeed, so close is the affinity, that it is not unusual for the Peach, which is the larger of the two and downy, to produce Nectarines, which are smaller, and have a smooth skin, and vice versd, ; while sometimes the two fruits are found on the same shoot, and single fruits have been grown with the skin of the Peach on one side, and that of the Nectarine on the other. The late Mr. Thomas Rivers, of Sawbridgeworth, to whom we are in- debted for so many fine varieties, succeeded in rais- ing Peaches from Nectarines, and Nectarines from Peaches, amongst them being an excellent late variety called the “Nectarine Peach,” as it is in every respect a fine, large Peach, with a smooth skin like that of a Nectarine. It is generally supposed that this delicious fruit is a native of Persia, and that it was brought through Egypt into Greece and Italy, where it was pretty well known about the time of the Christian era. But some great authorities assert that it is a native of China, where it was well and extensively grown at least five hundred years before it was known in the South of Europe. In support of this supposition, they state that it is mentioned in the books of Confucius, and its great antiquity is proved by the fact that representations of its fruit are found on old Chinese porcelain and sculpture. From China they think it was taken to Cochin China and Japan, where it is still known by the Chinese name of Zoo ; thence across the mountains through Cashmere, or Bokhara, into Persia, and eventually to Italy. Be this as it may, it is sufficient for the practical fruit-grower to know that it found its way, most likely, through France into England, about two hundred years ago, and that the pride and honour of breaking it up into numerous superior varicties, is due to men of our own generation and country. At the present time the Peach is extensively grown in Europe, Asia, and America, and also in South Australia. Under favourable conditions, it is frequently found to succeed in a low latitude; but being highly excitable, and always flowering in a low temperature, its deciduous nature does not fit it for a tropical climate. In the South of France, Italy, Australia, and America, it is grown in great abundance as a common standard or orchard tree, and produces excellent crops of fruit; but in our own country and the northern parts of France, it requires very careful management and training on a south wall to bring the fruit to maturity, and then the wood is frequently imperfectly ripened, and con- . sequently gets killed during the following winter. In America, we learn that orchards containing thou- sands and tens of thousands of trees produce large crops of fruit, which is used for making Peach- brandy, and for drying as an important article of food, while tons of the fruit aré conveyed to the large cities for consumption in a fresh state. The Americans raise their trees from stones, and, strange as it may appear, they do not live so long as worked trees in temperate Europe. This may be due to the great extremes of heat and cold which they experience: but if there be any truth in the assertion that it is the pace that kills, it is more probable that the enormous crops they carry have much to do with this early collapse; certainly it cannot be imperfect maturation of the wood, as it goes through the sharpest winters with impunity, provided it is thoroughly ripened, as it must be in the United States. When well grown, the Peach is one of the most delicious luxuries that can be placed upon the table. No good dessert from the end of May until the end of October is considered complete without it, and on this account there is always a great demand for fruit of superior quality. Unlike the Pine, Grape, or Melon, which can be grown abroad and brought to this country by tons and shiploads, the Peach must not only be grown in Great Britain, but it must be grown as British gardeners alone can grow it, to supply and satisfy the demand that has sprung up within the last few years. To meet this demand enormous span-roofed houses are erected, and very wisely too, by shrewd people who are aware that fresh Peaches from America are not likely to swamp their interests, and who, after hearing so much of the French Peach-trees, and the way in which they are trained, have found, upon inspection, that they have nothing to fear from that quarter, as the French are quite capable of consuming all their forced Peaches, which do not bear comparison with THE PEACH AND NECTARINE UNDER GLASS. our own. Then, again, the Peach is so tender, so easily injured when ripe, and so completely spoilt by the taint of a bruise going through it, as to render it very difficult for Continental packers to send it to this country in anything lke satisfactory condition. The possession of a house full of ripe Peaches in May or June gives pleasure to the owner as well as the grower, and the maintenance of a con- tinuous supply of this delicious fruit throughout the season, is one of the best tests of the horticulturist’s skill as a cultivator of an Eastern fruit, and that during the worst months of the year, in a cli- mate considerably too cold and treacherous for the hardiest native of the flowery land. Fifty years ago it was not usual to find more than one Peach-house ina large establish- ment, and that heated by means of a flue, and strange as it may appear to the rising generation of gardeners, who now rarely see a flued house, excellent crops of fruit were produced in structures that were dark and heavy, but fairly ventilated, as every lap in the miniature- squared roof let inasmall stream of air and kept the atmosphere of the interior in constant cir- culation. At that time, Royal George, Grosse Mignonne, and Noblesse Peaches were considered the earliest varieties for forcing. At the present time we have houses that are light, bright, perfectly venti- lated, and efficiently heated with hot water, and it may be, ere long, thanks to Dr. Siemens, con- stantly lighted by means of electricity. Add to these advantages the command of such early kinds as Karly Rivers, Karly Louise, Early Beatrice, Early York, Early Grosse Mignonne, and Hale’s Early Peaches; Lord Napier, Stanwick Elruge, and Early Orange Nectarines, all, with one exception, raised by the late Mr. Thomas Rivers, of Sawbridgeworth. Of more recent introduction, from America we have Amsden June, Waterloo, and Alexander, which ripen ' Ne => Rss i we Mis I RA Re aided ELEVATION Fig, 1.—LEan-To Hovust, WITH PARALLEL TRELLIS. A, Area beneath path; B, border; c, drainage ; 00, pipes; a, b, c, d, e, trees. 3k their fruit in an unheated orchard-house, early in July, and we have all the means for setting the elements at defiance, and the most suitable va- rieties for producing the finest and best Peaches and Nectarines that wealth can command. The means whereby the different varieties of Peaches and Nectarines can be distinguished have been already indicated in describing the Orchard -house treatment. PEACH-HOUSES. To have really good forced Peaches by the early part of May, which is quite as early as they can be had worth eating, under the best of management, and to keep up a continuous supply until the end of Sep- tember, a set of houses, similar to those recommended for Vines, will be needed. These will consist of the ordinary lean-to facing the south, the span-roof running from north to south, and the Peach-case, which may be erected against existing trees on south or west walls. For very early forcing, a sound, well-built, light lean-to—that is, a house built against a sub- stantial brick wall — facing due south, is the best. A few points east or west do not make much dif- ference ; but as forcing has to be carried on in the dark winter months, shelter from the north and east should, if possible, be secured by planting ever- ereen trees behind, but not so close as to interfere with the light. If shelter of this kind cannot be ob- tained, the wall may be raised a few feet higher than the glass, and well coped with broad stones, sloping slightly to the north side, where a spout should be. placed to catch the drip, and convey the water to the tanks. In old gardens, existing houses or ranges of houses, not always well placed, are divided into sections for giving a supply of fruit; but where they no longer answer the purpose, or new ones have to be built, the site should be well drained, elevated, and entirely open to the south, as light is 32 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING, a very important item, not only in the production of firm, short-jointed wood, but also in laying on colour when the Peaches are taking their last swell- ing. In shape and construction, a range of lean-to houses need not differ from good Vineries, provided the pitch is sharp enough to carry off water freely, and prevent the lodgment of snow; but in order to rest the easily-excited occupants, and give the foliage, wood, and roots the full benefit of summer rains and refreshing dew, all early and mid-season houses should be built with sash and rafter, or portable roofs. It is now a very common practice to place closely - glazed, skeleton- looking, fixed roofs over Peaches from which ripe fruit is expected in May, or it may be June, and what is still less likely to happen, the foliage during the two succeeding months, which are generally very hot, is expected to resist the attacks of spider under bad syring- ing, or perhaps no syringing at all, and go through that period not only without injury, but ab- solutely per- forming its functions. To steer clear of the evils which follow roast- ing, when the trees, | whose Fig. season has been A, Border ; reversed, ought to be resting, every light on early houses should slide up and down freely, and be easily removed when removal is considered necessary. Mid-season and late houses do not positively require stripping, consequently the cheaper fixed roof may be placed over the trees; but all forced Peach-trees are bene- fited by exposure to fine late summer and autumn rains, while very many are ruined by having the glass roofs kept over them, when they ought to be thrown open to the heavens. Uhe horticulturist, be he amateur or professional, will not assume that trees under all circumstances require stripping, even for a short period, as late SSK SSeS So ———_ SSS — NW ELEVATION 2.—LEAN-TO HOUSE, WITH CURVED TRELLIS. B, drainage; oo, pipes; houses have to be fired to get the wood ripe; but every man who is expected to produce a steady sup- ply of fruit, five months in succession, should have every advantage placed at his disposal. Size of House.—The size must, as a matter of course, be regulated by the demand for fruit, the number of varieties it may be thought desirable to grow, and the mode of training, as Peach-trees may be fruited in ten-inch pots, or they may be trained upon the extension principle to cover several hundred feet of trellis. For general pur- poses houses from thirty-six to forty feet in length, and fourteen to eighteen in width, are quite large enough; and where this size is not considered adequate to the demand, a longer structure, divided: into sec- Ws tions, and separately heated, ~U will be found preferable for giving a steady succession of fruit, as Peaches can be prevented from flowering un- til the end of March, but the fruit can- not be kept for any length of time after it is ripe. Where perhaps only one house is devoted to Peaches, the season may be greatly ex- tended by the introduction of early, mid-season, and late sorts; but this is not an economical arrangement where very early fruit is wanted, as the late kinds have to be forced with the others, when they would come on and do better in what is termed a mid-season house. Therefore, to keep up a constant supply and avoid a glut, several compartments, planted with suitable varieties, will be found the best. The front walls of all Peach-houses should be built upon arches, or better still, upon piers, to allow the roots the run of internal and external borders, although the latter are not often thought the best for early work. The trellises for training the trees a, b, c, d, e,. trees. THE PEACH AND NECTARINE UNDER GLASS. 33 - upon should be made of wire strained longitudinally, from six to nine inches apart, and from sixteen to eighteen inches from the glass, commencing at the base of the bottom light and running up to the back wall in medium-sized houses, which, as before ex- In later, plained, are the best for early forcing. larger, and wider houses, they may be curvilinear as in Fig: 2, an arrangement which some think gives a variety of tem- perature and position to the trees, and con- necessary degree of heat, without, as a rule, making them very hot; and they should be plentifully fur- nished with evaporating-pans for throwing off atmospheric moisture from the time the houses are started until the fruit is nearly ripe. In the house (Fig. 1) where forcing is commenced in November or December, three four-inch pipes along the front, ends, and back will not be too many; while in Fig. 2, which is wider, four pipes along the front and ends, and two four feet from the sequently a bet- back wall, will ter succession of be sufficient. fruit; but this is doubtful, as The Span- all the trees are roof (Fig. 3). ee away Fig. 3._Span-ROoFED House. Sale so age = fe elass; A, Border; B, border covered with gravel; 00, pipes. Peaches 2 aan and im conse- be retarded quence not so through their favourably placed for ripen- ing and colour- ing the fruit, without which good flavour cannot be ex- pected. Then again, the lower half of the trees on the back wall being shaded, or alto- gether too far away from solar influence, the number of square feet fully exposed to the sun is only a trifle in excess of that obtained from the parallel trellis as in Fig. 1. Heating.—Having in preceding papers directed attention to the importance of putting in good boilers and plenty of hot-water pipes, it is unnecessary to again revert to this subject except to state that the pipes should be placed near the front and back walls, and in sufficient quantity to keep up the 75 Fig. 4,--SPAN-ROOFED HOUSE. A, Path; B, border; c, drainage; oo, pipes. early stages, in lean-to houses, so as to have them ripe in September, there are many situations in which the span- roof can be con- veniently built for giving fruit through July, August, and Septempver. Such houses should be erec- ted with one end facing the north and the other the south.. as the trees then get the morning sun on the east and the afternoon sun on the west side- while it is equally diffused over the whole of the house a little before and after it reaches the meridian. A house of this character was built at Hastnor some years ago as a winter store for Bays and Aloes, which are taken in after the fruit is gathered and removed about the time it is setting. The sides are perhaps a little higher than is necessary for Peaches YL ZH, Gi Y Y Z Uf Vif YY. Tage ect i 34 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. alone: but as there are very few places in which a house capable of doing double duty is objectionable, and tall standard trees can always be obtained, the extra cost is trifling if it is not money well invested. The trellis in this house is twenty inches from the glass, and the trees have the run of internal and external borders, and are trained upon the extension principle, never having been shortened back with the knife. The roof is fixed, but abundantly ven- tilated, and three rows of pipes for giving warmth and ripening the wood run along the two sides and the end facing the north. Fig. 4 represents a very useful span-roofed house with raised borders, as well as the centre path, rest- ing on eighteen inches of clean stone for the purpose of secur- ing warmth and perfect drain- age. The inside borders are kept up by four-and-a-half inch brick walls, and the whole structure is supported on brick piers fourteen inches by nine, placed four feet apart along the sides and ends. Although the internal borders are barely six feet in width, and the external roots are not numerous, the x growth of the trees is all that can be desired, and the crops of \ fruit are excellent. It has often struck me that much expense and labour are wasted in making immense borders which the roots never fill; and that narrower, and consequently drier, borders, which will take frequent supplies of stimulating liquid, are better adapted for the growth of the Peach. When young trees are planted in borders of this kind, they at once set about forming and throwing out numerous bright fibry roots, similar to those we find in pots, and as these always ripen well, and are ever ready, with their thousands of healthy spongioles, for food in a liquid form, the growth they make is short-jointed, floriferous, and fruitful. Peach-cases.—In addition to the lean-to and the span, there are Peach-cases, varying from four to eight feet in width, placed upon iron or brick pedes- tals sunk in the ground, not unfrequently in front of south walls already furnished with trees from which, owing to the unfavourable locality and the prevailing bad seasons, good crops in the open air are very precarious or uncertain. Fig. 5 is a good representation of a Peach-case in which the trees can be planted against the wall, or they may be placed near the front, and trained over * Fig. 5.—PEACH-CASE, a trellis some sixteen inches from the glass as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 5. Many of these cases are not fitted with hot-water pipes, but this is false economy, particularly in low damp situations subject to fogs in autumn, when the wood requires a dry, bracing, consolidating atmosphere, as well as in the spring, when sharp morning frosts, or the con- tinuance of damp, dull weather, may be prejudicial to the setting of the fruit. Houses of this kind can be built with fixed roofs well ventilated at the top. and all the front lights should be made to open out- wards by the aid of continuous ventilating machinery. They should also be fitted with hydrants for econo- mising labour in washing the foliage and watering the roots, as the trees require an abundance of water. The mailp object veing the certainty of securing good crops of fruit annually, and as late as possible, suitable kinds of trees, such as Walburton Late Admirable, Barrington, Sea Eagle, and Desse Tardive Peaches, Albert Victor and Victoria Nectarines, should be well represented. The ventilators should be thrown wide open and never closed through the summer, and a flow and return pipe should be laid on for use after the fruit is gathered. A, Border; oo, pipes; B, shelf for Strawberries. Drainage for Borders.— Although the Peach delights in an abundance of water throughout the grow- ing season, and casts its buds if allowed to get dry at the root during the winter months, it is greatly averse to cold stagnant water which cannot pass away through the drains. In some places, and especially in hilly districts on the granite, sand- stone, and chalk, the natural drainage is quite satis- factory ; while in others, where the subsoil is cold, wet, and heavy, it is necessary to make the most careful provision for the well-being of the roots, which should be as completely under control as those of the Vine. But as Peaches, in cal- careous soils that suit them, do not require so much root-space as the Vine, the excavation for them need not be quite so wide, and the trees in early and mid-season houses should have the majority of the roots, if not all of them, inside. The excaya- tion should, however, extend some little distance beyond the front piers, or arches, with a gentle fall from the back path to the barrel drain, as is shown in Fig. 1; while in the house represented in Fig. 2 the external excavation should not be less than six THE PEACH AND NECTARINE UNDER GLASS. 35 feet, and the whole width of the interior, as the border for the trees against the back wall will be confined to the interior of the house. Having decided upon the level of the top of the border, it will be necessary to excavate three feet below the surface line, and put in the front drain running parallel with the house. Then the whole of the bottom must be covered with three inches of concrete beaten firm and trowelled over to make it smooth. When dry and hard it will be ready for the drainage, consisting of clean broken stones or brickbats, the largest pieces at the bottom, and the smallest on the surface to prevent the compost from being carried down when the fibre in the turf has decayed. Allowing a clear two feet for compost, the excava- tion will take nine inches of drainage all over the concrete; but as the piecemeal system of making the borders is the best, the drainage at the outset need not be wider than the first moiety of the border ; say six feet inwards from the front piers for good trees that have been two or three years trained on preparatory walls, and four feet in width for younger trees direct from the nursery. Compost.—The Peach and Nectarine, indeed all stone fruit-trees, succeed best in a rather strong cal- careous soil, naturally sound, rich and sweet. In calcareous districts, where the Rose, Strawberry, and Oak flourish, a sound upland sheep-pasture will afford the main staple of the compost. This should be cut when dry from two to four inches in thickness, carted home, and thrown into a heap just before itis wanted for use. After it has lain for a few weeks, if time admits, chop it up roughly with spades, and again leave it lying in a long rough ridge to sweeten. If at hand, use tarpaulins for keeping out wet, but remove them on bright windy days and frosty nights. In the meantime prepare the corrective agents, which may consist of old plaster containing hair, old lime and brick rubble, burnt earth, scrapings from lime- stone roads, if dry—one or all, as may be most conve- nient. Toevery four cart-loads of loam add one load of these materials evenly all over the top of the heap, thoroughly mix by turning, and again protect from wet. When the time arrives for making the border, take thin sods of turf, place them grass side down- wards all over the drainage, and keep a supply in re- serve for building up the retaining wall as the ma- terial is wheeled in. As no manure will be needed, half a bushel of crushed bones and a peck of soot may be added to every load of the compost, the latter to free it from wire or other worms that may have been brought in from the pasture. The bone-dust is not, however, indispensable, as a sound compost like this will not unlikely force a stronger growth at first than is desirable. Having raised the border some four inches above the ultimate level, to allow for settling, ventilate the house, and prepare the trees for planting. ) The compost here recommended, all other con- ditions being right, is not likely to disappoint; but there are hundreds of would-be Peach-growers who cannot get calcareousloam. They need not, however, despair, as other soils if fresh and sweet, including lighter sandy loams, or the edging from roads, will grow good Peaches, provided any stiff garden soil or marl be substituted for the burnt earth and road scrapings. Lime in some form being necessary, the rubble and crushed bones in this case will become essentials, and a mulch of thoroughly rotted cow- manure may be placed on the surface after the trees are planted. In cold low-lying places, where the subsoil is difficult to drain, Peach borders should be partially or entirely raised above the ground-line (see Fig. 4) to allow the ingress of warmth and air, and the quick escape of water, as the roots never ripen in a cold saturated compost, but continue throwing crude matter into the trees when they should be at compa- rative rest. Trees under these conditions make gross watery growth, which rarely ripens to the point, and, the flower-buds being imperfectly formed, the fruit cannot set. PROPAGATION, SELECTION, AND PLANTING. Propagation.—Though the private fruit-grower does not often prepare his own stone-fruit trees, includ- ing the Peach, Plum, Apricot, and Cherry, he will find it greatly to his interest to select them for his own spe- cial purposes when they are ready to leave the nursery. When considerable distance divides the producer from the future grower, and he is unable to reach the nur- sery, he cannot do better than entrust his orders to a respectable firm as early as may be convenient, and leave the selection to the proprietor. Gardeners as a rule do not attempt the propagation, budding, and training of their young stocks, for the simple reason that it is a special and important branch of the nurseryman’s business, which he can manage much better and cheaper than the grower; but this should not prevent every cultivator of fruit-trees from knowing how they are manufactured; therefore a few lines on this subject may not be out of place, the more so as Maidens, Dwarfs, Cordons, and Riders will henceforth be referred to in these pages. - Notwithstanding the fact that Peach-stones produce Nectarines, and Nectarine-stones produce Peaches, early varieties produce late varieties, and vice versa, all the members of this extraordinary family do not succeed alike well when budded on one kind of stock. The stocks generally used for the Peach and 36 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. Nectarine are the Brompton or Mignonne and the Mussell Plum. These are raised by layering the growths from established stoles in the nursery ; when rooted they are detached, trimmed, and shortened back to the height of twenty to thirty inches, and planted out in lines to make a year’s growth; the following autumn they are taken up, divided into two sizes, and again planted in rows three feet apart, where they remain until after they are worked. During the following July and August all that are growing kindly are budded with the approved kinds of Peaches and Nectarines, the buds remaining dor- mant until the following spring, when they start into growth. (Shield-budding, the mode generally practised in the working of stone-fruit trees, has been fully described and illustrated under Roszs and elsewhere.) The stocks are then cut back to the bud, as at a, and the summer’s growth results in the production of a “ Dwarf Maiden” (Fig. 6), varying from two to four feet in. height. In this form many growers, who object to cutting back to four buds, prefer buying and taking them under their own manage- ment. arly in the autumn the maidens are lifted, root-pruned, and planted out on well-prepared quarters, in rows four feet apart and two feet from each other; here they remain in- tact until the following spring, and when all danger of severe frost has passed away, the first barbarous act, that of cutting them back as shown to within four or five buds of the working, is committed, the Fig. 7.—One-year Trained Tree. object being the production of an evenly-balanced growth of a leader and two side shoots. Disbudding, stopping, and training result in a ‘‘one-year trained tree” with three shoots (Fig. 7). Cutting back is again deferred until the spring, when each shoot, in continu- ance of a barbarous custom, is shortened to within a few inches of its base. By three strokes of the knife each shoot is maimed, and the foundation of gumming and premature decay is laid; but the operation leads Fig. 6.—Dwarf Maiden. to the formation of a pleasing-looking tree with ten to twelve shoots, something like the annexed sketch (Fig. 8), and the nursery trainer’s work is at an end. Standard trees are made in the following way :—When the time arrives for budding, the young stocks intended for double work- ing are budded close to the ground with a free-growing plum; the bud remains dor- mant until the spring, when the stock is cut back to the working. During the summer this bud from the base throws up one strong straight shoot, which is worked with a Peach or Nectarine at the required height about the following August. When the leaves fall many of these trees are transferred to walls or fences for future training: some into half-standards, and others into full standards, ranging from two to six feet in height. To the un- initiated this double budding may seem unnecessary; but it is an authenticated fact that the process results in the produc- tion of a finer and quicker growth, and the plum being hardier than the Peach, it is better suited to the vicissitudes of our climate, while trees so worked are rendered more fruitful when they come into bearing. Referring toa letter from the late lamented Mr. Robert Osborne, he says: “ We use the Mussell for most kinds, but find some succeed better on the Fig. 8.—Nursery Trained Tree. Brompton. Amongst these are your famous Abec, also Bellegarde, Belle Beauce, Chancellor, Grosse Mignonne, Malta, Royal Kensington, Royal Charlotte, and Stirling Castle Peaches; Balgowan Impératrice and Victoria Nectarines. The following are best on the Mussell Plum: Barrington Late Admirable, Noblesse, Royal George, and Violette Hative Peaches; Elruge, Hunt’s Tawny, Pitmaston Orange, Red Roman, and Violette Hative Nectarines.” To many THE PEACH AND NECTARINE UNDER GLASS. 37 { this information may not be new; to the amateur it may be interesting and useful, as it will enable him to choose or reject trees which have not been worked in accordance with the experience of a member of one of the oldest and most honourable firms in this country. Selection.—The month of October is the best time to visit a fruit-tree nursery, just as the trees are finishing their growth, and before many, if any, have been taken away. Im selecting choose trees with from eight to twelve evenly-balanced, moderately strong, well-ripened shoots. Evennumbers are best, as vertical leaders are then avoided in future training. See that the union is neat, sound, and perfect, and the stem clean, healthy, and free from bruises or wounds, which may result in gumming. If for open walls, give preference to short double- worked half or quarter-standards, as they are hardier than dwarfs, and better suited for cold damp situa- tions. For planting Peach-houses, dwarfs are as well adapted as quarter-standards, but for all general purposes the latter are to be preferred. Peaches, HARLY. Nectarines. Abec. Hunt’s Tawny. Alexandra Noblesse. Lord Napier. Crimson Galande, Murrey. Dr. Hogg. Rivers’ Early Orange. Stanwick Elruge. Early Grosse Mignonne. Violette Hative. Hale’s Early. Large Early Mignonne. Waterloo. Peaches. MID-SEASON. Nectavines. Bellegarde. Elruge. Dymond. Hardwick Seedling, Lord Napier. Pitmaston Orange. Stanwick Elruge, Violette Hative. Grosse M gnonne, Royal George. Stirling Castle. Violette Hative. Peaches. Late. Nectavines. Barrington. Albert Victor. Desse Tardive. Dante. Lord Palmerston. Humboldt. Nectarine Peach. Pine Apple. Prince of Wales. Prince of Wales, Raymackers. Victoria. Sea Eagle. | able Walburton, late Admir- PEACHES AND NECTARINES FOR FLAVOUR. Peaches. Nectarines. Ahec. Flruge. Alexandra Noblesse. Pine-apple. Dymond. Pitmaston Orange. Grosse Mignomne. Royal George. Violette Hative. Stanwick Elruge. Victoria, Violette Hative. PEACHES AND NECTARINES GooD FOR MARKET, Peaches Barrington. Bellegarde. Crimson Galande. Dr. Hogg. Dymond, Hale’s Early. Lord Palmerston. Royal George. Stirling Castle. Violette Hative. Nectarines. Elruge. Humboldt. Lord Napier. Murrey. Pine-apple. Pitmaston Orange. Stanwick Elruge. Victoria. Violette Hative. Walburton Late Admir- able. -before ; Planting.—The borders in the different houses having been made and had time to settle, the planting of young trees direct from a nursery will be a very simple operation. But where the building of new or the re-planting of old Peach-houses has not been brought about by a hastily-conceived idea, the trees for this purpose should have been grown for two or three years against a reserve wall, where, by annual lifting, wot pruning of the roots, they would be in a floriferous state, and ready to bear fruit the first season, The roots would be hard, fibry, and so numerous as to admit of removal at any time after the foliage begins to ripen, or before the blossoms open. Indeed, when well managed, it is no unusual thing to take trees from a wall toa house when in full flower, and gather a few dozens of good fruit the same season. Assuming then that the houses as shown in the sections range about forty feet in length, three trees will be required for the front trellis, as is shown in the ground-plan (Fig. 1). Those at a and 4 must be dwarfs or half-standards, and the occupant of the centre, ¢, a full standard or ‘‘ rider” to cover the upper part of the trellis, and give some fruit until the, per- manent trees require the space. When the dwarf trees require more room, as they very soon will if trained on the extension principle, the “ rider’ will be cut away piecemeal, or lifted and re-planted else- where, as overcrowding in Peach-houses soon dis- organises the management as wellasthe trees. Then with steel forks lift the trees, carefully preserving all the fibrous roots, which must not be allowed to get dry during the time they are out of the ground. With the same implements turn the surface soil off the borders at the different stations, place the trees in position, and sling the branches loosely to the trellis. Spread out the roots in every direction, cut the points off any that are unduly long, also any damaged pieces, otherwise if left they will only throw up suckers, and cover with a few inches of the com- post. Work the soil well in amongst the roots with the hands, and when all are covered, give the whole area a few gallons of water through a rose to settle the soil about them. Defer putting on the remain- der of the compost until after the newly-watered soil about the roots has become firm, then mulch with a little short manure and keep the house cool. If the trees are planted direct from the nursery, the arrangement of the dwarfs will be the same as but the latter being small, two more “‘riders,” d and ¢, may be put in to furnish the upper part of the trellis. In all cases avoid deep planting ; four inches of soil above the roots is quite enough; also allow a space of six to nine inches between the trellis and the stems. In the house, Fig. 2, three trees may be placed on 38 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. the saddle trellis (a, 6,and c), the middle one (c) to be cut away as the trees at each end require space, and two “riders”? (d and e) will be sufficient for the back wall, The span-roofed houses can be planted VE with half or full stan- ' § Ze dards eighteen to twenty by a, —= mAN Fig, 9.—Single Cordon. feet apart for permanent trees, and single cor- dons (Figs. 9 and 10), previously grown to a fruiting state, intro- duced between them, will give an immediate supply of Peaches until the others come into bearing. If cordsns y are not in favour, then rig. 10,Branch of Fig. 9, some other kind of Enlarged. tree should be intro- duced as a supernumerary; their first cost is but trifling, and they soon give a return. CHOICE HARDY BORDER PLANTS. By RicHarp DEAN. Aconitum (Monkshood).—This is a very large genus of strong-growing perennials, varied in character, some of them having stout, erect stems five feet in height, while others are two feet or less, all bearing numerous helmet-shaped flowers, differ- ing in colour; some are blue, others yellow, white, purple, &c. Many of them are exceedingly orna- mentait. They are, in the main, European plants, though a few have come from regions further remote. ‘They are related to the Crowfoots (Ranun- culacee). ; The generic name—Aconitum—is said to be de- rived from Acona, the plant being plentiful about there. The English name Monkshood, which is more particularly applied to Aconitum Napellus, a plant found frequently in borders, is said to have been derived from the resemblance of the upper sepal to the cowl of a monk. But it has another English name, viz., Wolf’s-bane. This is of great antiquity. The true Wolf’s-bane is A. lycoctonum, a Japanese plant, and a noble late-flowering peren- nial, blooming in autumn, of a pale creamy-yellow colour, and growing to a height of three and a half feet. It does best when planted in the borders of shrubberies and naturalised in woods in semi-wild places. Wolf’s-bane means Wolf’s-poison, so called because, says Gerarde, “the hunters which seeke after woolfes put the juice thereof into rawe flesh, which the woolfes devour, and are killed.” In Sweden, a decoction or powder of the root of this plant is used for destroying flies and other insects. In his book on “ Plant Lore, Legends, and Lyrics,’’ Mr. R. Folkard states that “‘ by the ancients (who were unacquainted with mineral poisons) the Aconite was regarded as the most virulent of all poisons, and their mythologists declare it to be the invention of Hecate, who caused the plant to spring from the foam of the many-headed Cerberus, when Hercules dragged him from the gloomy regions of Pluto.” With this venomous plant the ancients were wont to poison their arrow-heads when engaged in war, and also in pursuit of wild beasts. Ovid was of opinion that the Aconitum derived its name from growing on rocks almost barren. In Greece the Wolf’s-bane is credited with many malignant influences, and the fevers so common in the neighbourhood of Corinth were attributed to it. Until the Turks were dis- possessed, the aga proceeded every year in solemn procession to denounce it and hand it over to destruction. A species named J. feroxr, which grows in North India, is used as a poison for arrows, the poison which is obtained from the roots being of remarkable virulence and activity when infused into the blood. Tt is necessary to name only a select few of the Aconitums as worthy the attention of the amateur gardener. They are—A. autwmnale, from Southern Europe; height three and a half feet, the flowers pale blue, tinged with lilac, produced in August and on to November; it does well on the fringe of a shrubbery border, in light garden soil. This is the Autumn-flowered Monkshood. A. chinenseisa native of China, a large and stately species, height four feet to six feet, flowers bright blue, produced in large compound racemes, in summer; should be planted on a warm border, in sandy loam. A. japonicum is the Japanese Monkshood, a noble-flowering late species, being from two and a half feet to three feet in height; flowers produced in autumn, large, deep blue or lilac; and it does well in borders, and here and there among low shrubs in fine, deep, sandy CHOICE HARDY BORDER PLANTS. 39 soil, or in peat. A. Napellus, the Common Monks- hood, is one of the very best, growing three feet in height ; flowers dark blue, produced in summer, and doing well on ordinary borders. But it is such a frightfully poisonous plant that many will not grow it, preferring to destroy it, and one authority states it should never be grown in a yegetable garden. The juice of the leaves and the root are both highly injurious, and it is stated that instances are known where persons, having taken the effluvia of the plant in full flower by the nostrils, have been seized with swooning fits, and lost their sight for three or four days. Cases are mentioned where deaths have ersued owing to the root of the plant being used under the impression it was Horse-radish. A. pani- culatum is the Panicled Monkshood, a tall and hand- some kind, four feet in height, flowers blue and white, produced in late summer; does best in a peaty soil. 4. variegatum is the Variegated-flowered Monkshood, a stately plant, four feet in height; flowers sky-blue, variegated with white. While this does well in any garden soil, it is also useful for forcing, and, like most of the Monkshoods, can be readily increased by division of the roots. Ajuga (the Common Bugie).—Whence the generic name of this plant was derived is uncertain, but it is said, not improbably, from ad and juga, to yoke or unite together, for of its healing properties it was said: ‘‘ Beyond sea in France and Germany, it is a common proverbe that they neede neither physician to cure their inward diseases, nor chirurgion to helpe them of any wound or sore, that have this Bugle at hand by them for use.”’ This was said of the Common Bugle, Ajuga reptans. The English name Bugle is of very uncertain origin ; it may be from the Latin bucco, ‘‘ wide-mouthed,”’ which is a character of the flowers. Bugula was the generic name of these piants used by all the old herbalists, and is regarded asa diminutive of abuga, one of the various spell- ings of a word given by Pliny as corresponding to a Greek word variously written as abiga, ajuga, wa, &e. Ajuga reptans is a common plant known everywhere in Britain; plentiful in fields; flowers blue, rarely white; produced all the summer in whorls in the axils of the leaves, on erect stems. There is a variety of this with claret-coloured leaves that is often employed as a very useful edging plant in the flower garden. Then there is a fine variety called purpurea, with larger and deeper-coloured purple blossoms. 4. alpina is the Alpine Bugle, with pale blue flowers; it is found on mountains and pastures in wet situations, and is rare. There has recently been introduced to English gardens a very- fine variety of this, known as A. alpina Brockbanki, a new and very desirable flowering plant, having deep blue flowers, and dark claret-coloured foliage. A. genevensis is the Geneva Bugle; a dwarf, hairy perennial, flowers blue; produced in summer, in whorls forming handsome spikes. 4. pyramidalis is very nearly allied to this. The former produces erect spikes of the deepest blue, and has a com- pact habit of growth. The Ajugas are easily grown in any ordinary soil, and quickly increased by division. Anchusa, or Bugloss—The Anchusas are all hardy plants, and comprehend annuals, biennials, and perennials. The generic name is supposed to be derived from the Greek anchousa, a cosmetic and paint obtained from the root of the Alkanet, Anchusa tinctoria. Buglossis from the Latin buglossa, ‘‘tongue,” descriptive of the shape and rough surface of the leaves. Alkanet is said by Parkinson to be a cor- ruption of its French name Orchanette ; but the real derivation of the name is supposed to be from the Arabic name al-chennah, the colouring matter with which Eastern ladies impart a red tint to their nails. The Evergreen Alkanet is Anchusa sempervivens, native of Western Europe (naturalised in Britain) ; the roots of this yield a reddish dye, but very infe- . rior to that obtained from the A. tinctoria. Alkanet is a dye-drug obtained from several plants of this family, and it is extensively used by dyers, by drug- gists, by perfumers, “and by vintners for colouring adulterated wines, of which spurious port contains a considerable quantity.” The Bugloss has been made the emblem of false- hood, because the roots of one of its species are used in making rouge for the face. In the wilds of America the Indians paint their bodies red with the roots of a Bugloss (Anchusa virginica) indigenous to their country. The best known is Anchusa italica; this is the Itahan Alkanet, and is a very handsome, vigorous, and showy plant: the flowers are of a beautiful blue hue, and are produced in early summer. It is a native of France and Italy, and does well in ordinary garden soil, being propagated by division of the roots, and by seed. Itisa plant that should be largely grown by persons who keep bees, as they appear to be very fond of it. A. angustifolia produces bright blue flowers ; A. incarnata, dark blue blossoms. All the foregoing are true perennials. A biennial form, named capensis, a native of the Cape of Good Hope, makes a pretty garden plant, and can easily be grown from seed. They do well in the garden border. The beautiful blue of the Anchusas makes them great favourites in the garden. Antennaria (Cat’s-foot).—This is a small genus belonging to the Gnaphaliums, and so named from 40 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. antenne, “‘feelers,” in reference to the downy heads of flowers. The common name of Cat’s-foot is said to have been bestowed from the same cause. There are but a few species and varieties composing the genus, and but three or four of these are grown, and they are decidedly useful plants in the garden. A. dioica, sometimes called Gnaphalium dioicum, is a little creeping perennial from Northern Europe (Britain) and America,also known as the Mountain Everlasting. The leaves are of a silvery-grey tone; the flower- stems four inches or so in height, bearing four to six flower-heads close together at the apex of the shoot; the flowers are white and pink, No Alpine plant is more worthy of cultivation, whether for rockwork, for pots, or for the front margin of the mixed border, or as an edging to beds of bulbs and Alpine flowers; used in such a way the plants form neat close-spreading tufts, dotted over with singularly pretty everlasting flowers in May. It is a plant that appears to thrive in the low open border on good soil near London, as well as in more elevated and favourable spots. It is perfectly hardy, and may be increased to any extent by division. A variety of this, named minima, is a very small form that can be grown in the same way. 4. hyperborea is the Northern Cat’s-foot, and by some is con- sidered to be a variety of 4. dioica, with both sides of the leaves woolly. It is a native of the Isle of Skye. The best known is 4. tomentosa, the Silvery Antennaria, and this is perhaps the best of all the dwarf silvery-leaved plants for garden purposes. It is very dwarf and spreading, scarcely rising above the ground, but forms a dense carpet of little, flat, spreading silvery leaves. It may be said to carpet the ground with silver, and, as it is barely an inch in height, it requires to be cut off from coarser plants by a line of some subject of moderate size, or by a bare space, and to be planted in a rather wide belt. It is a native of the Rocky Mountains, and though of comparatively recent introduction, it has spread so rapidly throughout the country because of its usefulness, that it may be said to have become common in gardens. But it should be planted on light warm soils; on low, heavy, clay ground it will perish during winter. When used in the flower garden during summer it should be divided and re-planted annually, as it does so much better when treated in this way. Asphodelus (Asphodel).—This is said to be the flower that flourished in the Elysian Fields. Aspho- delus represents a genus of hardy herbaceous peren- nials that will do well in any good garden soil. The few fine forms commonly grown are natives of the South of Europe, and have been cultivated in English gardens for more than a century. The best known are—AA. luteus, the Yellow Asphodel, an ornamental perennial, growing from three to four feet im height, producing yellow, or bright yellow flowers, con- tinuing in bloom fora considerabletime. (The proper name is Asphodeline lutea.) We have seen this in fine condition in a deep and rather dry sandy loam. There is a double variety that deserves a place in the hardy border. A creticus is the Cretan Asphodel, a native of Candia, and is also yellow-flowered. One of the best known is dA. ramosus, the Great Asphodel, a bold vigorous perennial, producing from a slight root a number of stout branching stems, from three to four feet in height, covered with white flowers. It is a very useful plant for shrubberies and her- baceous borders; it is perfectly hardy, and will thrive in any good garden soil, The Asphodel appears to have been much associated with the ancients. Homer tells us that, having crossed the Styx, the shades passed over a long prairie of Asphodel; and Lucian makes old Charon say: “I know why Mercury kept us waiting so long. Down here with us there is nothing to be had but Asphodel, and libations and oblations, and that in the midst of mist and darkness; but up in heaven it is all bright and clear, and plenty of ambrosia there, and nectar without stint.” The fine flowers of this plant of the infernal regions produced grains which were believed by the ancients to afford nourishment to the dead. Accordingly, we find that the Greeks planted Asphodel and Mallow round graves. The edible roots of the Asphodel were also wont to be laid as offerings in the tombs of the departed, and, according to Hesiod, they served as food for the poor. Asphodels were among the flowers forming the couch of Jupiter and Juno, and Milton has named them as put to the same use by Adam and Eve. In Barbary the wild boars eat the roots of this plant greedily, and in hunting for them they turn up large spaces of ground, rendering it fertile by this mode of ploughing. Barbarea, or Cress.—What is grown in gardens as the American Cress is Barbarea precox, the Early Winter Cress; it is also known as the Belleisle Cress, but why these two names were bestowed upon it we are unable to say, as it is a native plant. Chaucer calls the Cress by its old Saxon name of Kers, which may possibly have been the origin of the vulgar saying of not caring a “curse” for any- thing, meaning a Cress. As the American Cress is treated of under the head of Herbs or Saladings, in Vol. I., it is only introduced here to call attention to a useful form, with variegated foliage, of Barbarea vulgaris, known as the Variegated Cress (Barbarea vulgaris fol. var.), which makes an excellent spring plant, being very gay quite early in the year. It is CHOICE HARDY BORDER PLANTS. 4] a biennial, and should be raised from seed every year, sowing in the open ground during the spring, and in this way good strong plants can be planted out in autumn. It is quite hardy, standing un- harmed through the severest winter. How this variegated form originated we cannot say, but it is quite worthy the attention of our readers who are interested in hardy spring-flowering plants. Calandrinia.—This is a genus named after a German botanist, Calandrini. Several species have been introduced from time to time, but those at present cultivated can be reduced to a few pretty annuals introduced from Chili, such as C@. discolor, rose, which is also known as C. elegans ; C. grandifiora, purple; C. rosea, rose; and C. speciosa, purple; the latter is very pretty indeed, and all do well in good garden soil. C. wmbellata is a half-hardy annual -from Peru, by some considered to be a perennial; so very dwarf as not to be more than three inches in height, and producing numerous flowers of an intense magenta-crimson colour, This is a beauti- ful plant for rockwork; if it can establish itself in any cool spot it flowers grandly, and for a consider- able period. We would advise that this, and C@. speciosa, be also grown in pots. All that we have named can be raised from seeds. Callirhoe.—This is a small group of plants, handsome in appearance, blooming freely from three to five months continuously ; rich in colour, and the flowers good in form. The name is of Greek origin. There are two that come under the denomination of hali-hardy annuals, viz.—C. digitata, dark rose; and C. verticillata, purple: the seeds of both these should be raised in a gentle heat, and then transplanted to the open ground to flower. C. involucrata, though classed with the half-hardy annuals, is really a very charming dwarf prostrate perennial, producing numerous large violet-crimson blossoms, fully two inches across, and grows to the height of about six inches. It does well in light loam, and always delights those who cultivate it. Caltha palustris (Marsh-Marigold).—The gene- ric name Caltha is in all probability'derived from kalthe, the Greek for an urn, or drinking-cup, which the flower sometimes resembles in form; palustris alludes to its being found only in wet, marshy places. The English name, Marsh-Marigold, alludes to the same characteristic, and to the yellow colour of its flowers. Gerarde states, ‘“‘In Cheshire, and those parts, it is called Bootes,’ but why, he does not record. Parkinson states that by some it was called Gouldes, to which name its golden flowers are an index. Ac- cording to Rapin, the Sicilian shepherd, Acis, origin- ally discovered the Marsh-Marigold growing in his native pastures :— “Nor without mention shall the Caltha die, Which Acis once found out in Sicily ; She Pheebus loves, and from him draws her hue, And ever keeps his golden beams in view.” The flower’s modern Italian name, Sposa di Sole, has probably been given to it in reference to this legend. On May-day country people strew Marsh-Marigolds before their doors, and twine them into garlands. Some think the Caltha palustris to be Shakespeare’s ‘Winking May-bird with golden eye,” which if plucked with due care, and borne about, will hinder ‘“‘any one from speaking an angry word to the wearer.’ (Folkard’s “ Plant Lore.’’) Caltha palustris is to be found in marshy places, in moist meadows and margins of rivers, brooks, &e., throughout Europe, Western Asia, and North America. It flowers in spring, and continues into early summer, bearing large, bright golden-yellow flowers, of a showy character. There is a double form that makes a handsome border plant, and does well in a deep, moist, sandy loam. It is a moisture- loving plant, and will deteriorate in a dry soil. It erows to a height of about a foot. There is a very dwarf free-flowering variety named nana, also with double flowers, earlier to bloom than the taller- growing form.. Few plants will be found more ornamental on the margin of the pleasure-ground lake, where the rich golden blossoms are reflected with admirable effect. The varieties of this plant are increased by division of the roots. Calystegia (Bearbind).—The generic name is de- rived from salyz, ‘‘a calyx,” and stega, “a covering,” in reference to the calyx being hid by two bracts, as is the case with a section of Bindweeds. It is also known as the Bindweed, but this applies more particularly to Convolvulus arvensis, because of its tendency to twine about the stalks of corn, or round any erect plants, and, devoid of support, it will creep along a hedge-bank, or even over a heap of stones. It is to be seen everywhere along the road-sides, and in our fields ; the white flowers being flaked more or less heavily with rosy-pink. The Great Bindweed (Calystegia sepiwn) is a striking climber, hanging its pure white bells in every hedgerow. Its leaves are large, of a full green, and heart-shaped. The Calystegias are aristocratic Convolvuluses, and two very fine single forms are to be met with in gardens, viz.—C. incarnata, rose; and C. grandifiora, pure white. If planted out in a good deep loam they grow freely, and establish themselves, throwing up in spring strong shoots that need something to twine about, and they flower very freely and finely. In the autumn they die down completely. @. 42 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. pubescens flore-pleno is the Downy Calystegia from China, and is a very pretty free-flowering species, producing large double rose-coloured flowers; it is one of the prettiest of our hardy climbers, will grow in any soil, and continues in flower all the summer. We prefer to give this species a light soil and a warm aspect; and, like the preceding, it dies in autumn, coming up again in spring. We have seen it used with great effect in London for forming small bowers, &c., in balconies, and there it is grown in pots. C. oculata has large creamy-white flowers, coloured in the centre with chocolate, and it is a very effective climber. They are all increased by division of the roots, which run very much in the soil. Cardamine (Cuckoo-Flower).—Every lover of the country knows this pretty subject, so familiar an ornament in most woods and fields, and it is abundant almost everywhere. This is Cardamine pratense. 'The colour of the flowers varies to every shade between white and full llac. The generic name is a diminutive of Kardamon, the Water-Cress, which some of the species resemble in flavour. Pra- tensis, “of a meadow,” alludes to its usual place of growth. It is called the Cuckoo’s flower because it flowers in April and May, when, states Gerarde, “the cuckoo doth begin to sing her pleasant notes without stammering.” It is also called the Lady’s-Smock, and this popular name was, as some say, probably applied by the monks in days when each flower was dedicated by them to some saint about the time of whose anniversary it began to bloom. The more generally received notion is that it was so named from the resemblance of its white flowers to little smocks hung out to dry, as they used to be once a year, at that season especially. Shakespeare alludes to it in these lines :— **When Daisies pied and Violets blue, And Lady-smocks all silver-white, And Cuckoo buds of yellow hue, Do paint the meadows with delight, When shepherds pipe on oaten straws, And maidens bleach their summer smocks.”’ The Cuckoo buds alluded to by Shakespeare are probably some species of Ranunculus, and, as Mr. Folkard states, as the Cardamine pratensis is rather a pale blue than a silver-white flower, the allusion in these lines perhaps applied to C. amara, whose brilliantly white blossoms might well be taken for linen laid out to bleach. The Cardamine is also known as the Meadow-Cress. E A double variety of C. pratensis, a natural sport, makes an admirable border plant. It does well on rockwork, or any place that is moist, and in a good sandy loam. It is also a charming subject for cul- tivation in pots. It is easily increased by root division. C. asarifolia is a free-growing white- flowered species which makes good border planis; so does C. latifolia, which bears large heads of rosy- purple flowers. This is a native of the Pyrenees and South of France, on the banks of streams, and must, therefore, be grown in moist places. C. trifolia is the Three-leaved Cardamine ; it is a dwarf plant, with dark green foliage, bearing heads of snow- white blossoms in spring ; but it must have a shady, moist position. It is found on the shady parts of mountains in Central Europe. } THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. By D, T. FISH, ASSISTED BY WILLIAM CARMICHAEL. THE PEAR. ITHOUT doubt the Pear is the best of all our \ \ hardy dessert fruits. Its size, its flavour, its colour, the length of time it remains in season, girdling the year round with its luscious aroma, all raise it to the first rank as an important factor in the dessert. Not a few popular errors prevail in reference to the tenderness of Pears, the difficulties of cultivating them, and the time needed to bring them into fruitful condition. ‘‘He that plants Pears, plants for his heirs,’ has limited Pear-planting to a most disas- trous extent. Not only is there less truth in this old saying than in most, but, in view of modern methods of culture, it may be said to be totally destitute of truth. Pears may now be forced into fertile ways almost as rapidly as Apples, as we shall see, that is, on the very heels of growth. Scarcely is wood made and matured till fruit follows. The so-called tenderness of Pears is a misleading mixture of myth and reality. The Pear is a stubborn old native British plant, and is found wild in Scotland and other parts of the kingdom. As if this were not proof positive enough of its hardiness, it is also found wild in Russia, Sweden, Denmark, and other northern and southern countries. It has almost the widest geographical range of any of our cultivated fruit, and if not exactly found from China to Peru, is, at least, distributed pretty freely from Scotland to China. Doubtless, in pursuit of size and quality, we have, in the case of not afew of our finer varieties, lost some- what of the hardiness and power of endurance that characterised the original Pear, and not a few of its old English offshoots. The Pear is, perhaps, the most malleable—the word seems more emphatic than improvable—of all our THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 43 cultivated fruits. Originally hard, dry, austere, but a few removes from the wood of the branches on which they grew, they have become sweet, rich, mellow, luscious, aromatic, ‘‘ meaty” to the highest degree. The last word is the oldest and most emphatic, and may suggest that the Pear was looked upon as food at a time when the common name of food of all kinds was “ meat.”’ But probably the idea was simply ‘fit to eat,” in opposition to the hard and austere Pears that were then considered the only fit and proper sorts for cooking, and this mistake can hardly be yet said to be remedied, though now the majority of sensible pomologists bake their very best dessert Pears, and find these, if baked sufficiently early, the best of all for cooking in every way. Longevity of the Pear.—This is proverbial, and it probably exceeds that of all other culti- vated fruits, with the exception of that of the Mul- berry. Pear-trees are still intact and in bearing that have lived for three or four centuries. Its hardy origin and splendid constitution stand it in good stead in its contest against time and the rugged, stern se- verities of our climate. And though the set has turned against large fruit-trees, it is to be hoped that in park, orchard, or sheltered wood, spaces willalways be found for a goodly number of Pear-trees, to grow up into full stature at leisure, and assume their natural form and character with a minimum amount of inter- ference from the cultivator. Improvement of General and Iocal Cli- mate.—This has already been treated of under the head of drainage and cultivation of the soil. A good deal may be done for Pears by raising the roots, either partially or wholly, above the surrounding level. By such simple mechanical means the roots may be lifted bodily out of wet or ungenial subsoils, or barren and unsuitable surface soils. In very dry and poor localities the very opposite plan may at times be adopted with the happiest re- sults. Pits may be dug out bodily, a yard or more in depth, and two across, and these filled in with stiff turfy loam, that best adapted for Pears, and the new level left from three to six inches lower than the natural one of the surrounding district, thus insuring a plentiful supply of water for the Pear-trees from the overshed from the natural soil contiguous to them. It is astonishing what improvements in local climate may be effected by thorough drainage, and the substitution of an arable for a grass surface. The first will often effect a rise of five or more degrees in the temperature. Nor does this represent all the gain. The rise will be greatest, or what amounts in Pear-culture to the same thing, the depression will be least when heat is most needed. For example, in the early spring, when every molecule of heat may be needed to combat successfully the repeated efforts of spring frosts to destroy the Pear-blossoms, every drop of water sent down through the surface strata in- stead of being lifted off it, conserves the heat of the local atmosphere, and thus contributes to the safety of the Pear-bloom. Again, the difference of temperature between a bare arable surface and one of grass in the early spring is so great as to make all the difference between the safety and destruction of the Pear-bloom. The earth absorbs the solar heat gradually by day, and parts with it during cold nights with sufficient rapidity and volume to keep the local atmosphere warm .enough to save the bloom from destruction. The looser and more bare the surface of the earth, the more efficient as a local warming-pan for the trees. If too dark and too heavy it would absorb heat too rapidly, and lose it too soon to do its amelioratory work on the local climate efficiently. But calcareous loams of rather a lght colour, of a loose texture, do much to make Pear-culture possible on sites and in climates where it would otherwise be almost hopeless. On a cold sunny day in March two years ago, the writer had occasion to pass from the sheltered to the exposed side of a belt about fifteen yards wide. On its south-western side Primroses were in bloom, the Sweet-briar shootlets were two inches long, and Lilacs were showing their large white buds swollen and bursting through. Even the Chestnut and Syca- more buds had swollen; the air was soft, almost as a May morning, and the birds were singing, wondering at the early spring, and laying all sorts of precocious plans for nest-building. On the north-eastern side winter reigned in full vigour and severity, with no sign of budding life nor coming spring. And yet all the difference arose from a thin screen of living vegeta- tion, efficient for protection almost in the ratio of its flimsiness. Evergreen trees are still more power- ful warmers and ameliorators of local climate. A double or treble line of Spruce or Scotch Firs on the exposed side of Pear-trees would enable them to_ be grown successfully in thousands of districts where their culture would be otherwise hopeless. Beech, Hornbeam, Arbor Vite, or Yew hedges are still more potential ameliorators of local climate, and are not only far cheaper but more efficient than walls. Selection of Favourable Local Climates for Pears.—These abound in most neighbourhoods, and even in most gardens, or the surroundings of the house or outhouses, however small. The sunny sheltered sides of hills ; warm sites near hedges or plantations; southern and western aspects of walls; the cosiest nooks and corners in shrubberies, pleasure 44 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. erounds, parks, woods, or gardens—these and such as these favoured spots for Pears should be sought out and utilised. It is altogether a mistake, pregnant with, perhaps, nine-tenths of the failures in Pear- culture, to plant Pears as a matter of course where Apples or Cherries may do fairly well. Of course, in good all-round climates, such as Kent, Surrey, Herefordshire, and other favoured counties, Pears may be planted with Apples and thrive equally well or better. But in many other counties it is widely different. In these the Pear needs warmer sites, cosier nooks and corners, more shelter and care, than the Apple or any other hardy fruit. As an illustration, itis no uncommon thing to meet with magnificent Pear-trees of such fine sorts as the Jargonelle, Maria Louise, Easter Beurre, Glout Morceaux, and even the Chaumontel, more tender than either, on the gable-ends of dwelling-houses, where such varieties will hardly live in the open gardens or orchards close by. ‘The warmth of the chimney makes all the difference. And some of these trees and their fine produce would pay well for a few extra shovelfuls of fuel thrown on the last thing during frosty nights in April, when the trees are in bloom. The Selection of Pears for Local Climates. —This important branch of the subject may be said to be yet in its infancy, and but little positive can be stated on the subject. It seems likely, however, that Pears grafted on the Quince are hardier than those worked on the Pear, and were the latest available varieties of either chosen as stocks valuable re- sults might follow. As the Pear also takes fairly well on the common White-thorn, it is possible that some of the many species of Crategus may et be used to impart greater hardiness, or what would practically almost amount to the same thing, retard the somewhat precocious development of our Pear- blossoms and shoots in the early spring. All this is of necessity somewhat speculative and problematic. What is certain, and is being more clearly demon- strated by every year’s additional experience, is that could we hold back our Pear-bloom a few weeks longer in the spring, good crops would become the rule, not the exception. Means for protecting Pear-blossom will come under consideration in our general culture; and there is but little to add here on culture as a means of modifying climate or the better fitting of the Pear to the climate. Root-pruning, frequent lifting of the roots in the early autumn, would, doubtless, do Some- thing towards the latter. Such violent disturbances check, and hence hinder and delay growth. Growth retarded in the autumn means a late start in the Spring, and so severe at times and long-continued is this interregnum to growth, that the trees may be a month later in blooming in consequence. This month’s grace in blooming-time in the spring, or even half of it, is often sufficient to save the Pear crop of the season. Late pruning is another alternative towards the better suiting of Pears to local climate. The late pruner has forced his growing branches to decoy the sap away from the expanding flower-buds, which are then retarded through a diversion, as well as a diminution of volume, of the advancing current of fluid. By this compound action of the decoy wood- buds the pressure on the fruit-blossoms has been les- sened, and the speed of their growth slackened. The late pruner virtually blows off vital force or steam, though the shoots be cut off after they have broken into leaf. The importance of this slackening of the speed of the growing blossom-buds, and delay of opening in the spring, can hardly be over-estimated. A fortnight’s delay in the opening of the flowers of Pears in the spring makes all the difference between a crop of fruit and complete-failure, in many of our fickle seasons. The fitting of varieties for special conditions can only be done through careful observation and a wide experience. Certain sorts and varieties of Pears seem more or less closely linked to different localities. This is especially so with such fine varieties as Maria Louise, Glout Morceaux, Beurre Diel, Winter Nelis, &c. Even quality as well as fertility run in geo- graphical lines or on geological zones at times. It is only by carefully marking, learning, and, as it were, inwardly digesting, the Pear produce of differing localities, that one can give a sure and safe answer of what Pear to plant in given districts, with the surest prospects of pleasure or profit. PROPAGATION. There are but four general methods of propagating the Pear—by seeds, scions or buds, cuttings, and layers; and as the propagation of the Pear by these methods differs but little from that of the Apple, aiready described in detail, it will only be needful to note those points on which the two differ. Hence, in all points on which the instructions may seem im- perfect or incomplete, the reader should.see APPLEs. Propagation by Seeds.—This is pursued for two distinct and almost opposite objects, the origina- tion of new and better varieties, and the providing of stocks on which to bud or graft existing sorts. In regard to the first, the majority of pomologists start too late, and hence, possibly, the chief reason why such scant success has been attained by English growers. They begin with the seed, whereas they ought to start with the flower. In the seeds the THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 45 future characteristic of the seedling already exists in embryo, and their character can neither be modified nor improved, but simply developed by the cultivator. The Pear has a stronger tendency to reversion, or degeneration, than most of our cultivated fruits. Probably less than one per cent. of seedling Pears will equal their seed-parent, while hardly one ina thousand or two thousand will yield such superb Pears as Glout Morceaux, Maria Louise, Winter Nelis, or Easter Beurre. These facts are not quoted to discourage amateurs or others from raising seedling Pears, for some of them have been the most successful, but as a strong argument for taking every possible means to com- mand success. One means is to sow only the finest seeds out of the finest Pears. The attempt must also be made to improve the seed in the making. This is done by crossing two fine varieties, such, for example, as Maria Louise and Easter Beurre, Beurre Diel and Winter Nelis, Glout Morceaux and Louis Bonne of Jersey, Williams’ Bonchrétien and Passe Colmar. It will be observed that in each of these two Pears one contrasts with the other in season, size, or quality. But such contrasts are not necessary to in- sure success. Pears may be mated for improved seeds on the principle of harmony as wellas of contrast, and the chances of success are about equal on either prin- ciple. All that is needful is to remove the stamens early from the seed-parent, and apply foreign pollen to the pistil. In crossing Pears, however, in the open ground, the pistils of the seed-bearing parent must be carefully protected from chance pollen, by the use of muslin bags, or other means, else will the bees, the butterflies, and the breezes make sad havoc of our systematic and scientific attempts at the improvement of our Pear-seeds. Notes should be made of all such essays, and then when the experi- mental Pears are eaten the seeds should be sown at once, and a record kept of the pedigrees of the seeds. All such data would immensely deepen the interest and increase the zest of Pear propagation by seeds in search of new varieties. The Sowing of the Seeds.—There is no better method than that of sowing Pear-seeds so soon as the fruit iseaten. Out of the fruit into the earth, is the safest motto for such valuable property as carefully hybridised or saved Pear-seeds. The simplest and safest way is to sow all such -Pear-seeds in, say, six-inch pots, at the rate of a dozen seeds in a pot, leaving as much as an inch and a half unfilled. Place a sheet of glass or a slate over them, and leave them either in a sheltered spot in the open, ora cold pit, free from frost, until the plants come through the soil; this will mostly be the following spring, say March or April, when the plants may be placed in the open. air, well watered throughout the summer, and turned out in the open, as directed for Apples, in the autumn. A Season Saved by Sowing in Heat.— Place ina gentle warmth, say 55°—60°, until the _ middle or endof May. Under this fostering treat- ment each seedling should be potted up so soon as it has magle three proper leaves, into a three or four inch pot, returned to warmth, and pushed on as rapidly as may be. If kept under the shelter of an orchard or other house, it will be sufficiently strong to have a six or eight inch pot, and will probably have reached to the height of a yard before the autumn. The extra fostering will enable the seedling to do two or more years’ work in one. There is also a middle course, which gives great strength and saves much time, with less trouble. This consists in fostering the plantlets as much as pos- sible, and growing each in separate pots till June, then turning them out in the open, in light rich soil, in which they will grow freely, and also mature their growth before the end of the season. The means of forcing early fertility in seedling Pears differ little if at all from those described for Apples at page 166, Vol. Il. Some, however, assert that by using the middle portion of the shoots for scions the seed- lings can be proved sooner than by using either their tops or bottoms. Doubtless, the mode of grow- ing seedling Pears for the first season under glass, by heightening and hastening their maturity, also ereatly hastens their fertility; while the working of them on dwarfing and fertilising foreign stocks as the Quince, tends to further the same great end, the early proving of the seedling Pears. Asa rule, too, fruit-bearing is much hastened by working the seedlings on fertile varieties—such, for instance, as Louis Bonne of Jersey—in full bearing, and also on medium-sized and specially fertile branches of the same ; the principle of like begetting like apparently having a certain degree of potentiality under such conditions. Once more, some authorities, with an eye to purity of blood, recommend those in search of improved and superior varieties to select their seeds only from trees worked on Pear-stocks. It is also thought by some—a very old idea among Melon and Cucumber growers—that by subjecting Pear-seed to extra dry- ing, or keeping it out of the soil for six months or so, the fertility of the seedling may be hastened. © The Saving and Sowing of Pear-seeds for Stocks.—Possibly were more attention devoted to this matter better stocks might be introduced than any that Pear propagators are yet able to rely upon. What is really wanted and ought to be forthcoming, is a Pear stock of as clearly defined and reliable qualities as the French and English Paradise stock for Apples: a stock to control growthand compel fertility. Neither does the use of the Quince relieve pomolo- gists from the duty and necessity of finding a Pear stock possessing parallel merits to the Paradise stock for Apples. Useful as the Quince has been, it is but an interloper at best, and in some senses a back- ward step. Its influence is capricious rather than constant, ruining the quality of some Pears, weaken- ing the health of others, greatly curtailing the lives of all. We purchase fertility too dearly through the Quince. Possibly the desideratum of a Pear stock that might be relied upon to heighten the fertility of Pears, without lowering the quality of the fruit or shortening the life of the tree, may be found among such varieties as Louis Bonne of Jersey, Beurre de Capiomont, the Old Swan’s-egg, or similar moderate- growing fertile varieties. The mere sowing of Pear-seeds for stock, and their treatment till of sufficient size and strength for working, does not differ materially from those of Apples, and will be found set forth on page 166, Vol. II. The Raising of Seedling Quinces.—As the Quince seldom ripens seeds in England, and the raising of these does not greatly differ from that of Pears, little more need be said upon it here. Seeds and seedlings are prettly largely imported. These are mostly kept very dwarf, as the theory and prac- tice of most growers are to have as little Quince in their Pear-treesas possible. Hence, though seedling Quinces grow rather more slowly than Pears, they very often become fit to work sooner. There always seems some little doubt as to the Pear’s ability to stand alone on the Quince. Hence it is mostly worked so low down as to allow of the Pear rooting over the Quince into the ground on its own account—a process that either fails to take place, or succeeds in removing the restraining influences of the Quince over the Pear. On the other hand, however, the Quince brings both more numerous and more fibrous surface-rooting roots to the help of the Pear, induces a more dwarf habit, renders the tree easily portable, imparts, asa rule, more colour, and more seldom a higher flavour to the fruit. The Pear will also grow on the common Thorn, the Mountain Ash, and the Medlar, but with less freedom and permanency than on the Quince. So there cannot be a doubt that the seedling Pear is the best stock for the Pear. These seedlings are now of several degrees of excellency—the wild Pear, the perry Pear, the common orchard, and best garden Pear—and no doubt among the latter a stili better stock of more uniform excellency will yet be found. 46 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. Grafting.—The grafting of Pears does not differ in principle and practice from that briefly de- scribed for Apples, page 167, Vol. I1., and also in our articles on Propagation. Whip grafting is the best for young trees and for dwarfs. It isa good plan, after claying the grafts round on the latter, to earth them up an inch or two beyond the point of union and over the protecting clay. Pears im general, how- ever, and those on the Quince in particular, should be grafted rather earlier than Apples. The Pear grows earlier than the Apple, and the Quince earlier than the Pear—hence the advice now given. In dealing with two such different plants as the Quince and the Pear, it is indispensable that their growing condition should be brought more nearly abreast by art than they would be likely to be through nature. In a word, left to them- selves, the Quince would be too far ahead of the Pear in March, say, to insure success. The best way of retarding the Quince and scions of the Pear alike until grafting-time, is to take off the scions and lay them in the ground in December, and behead the Quince in January, and within a few inches of the spot for grafting. With scion and stock in suitable condition, a good fit, expert workmanship, speedy ex- clusion of the air, and firm binding together, a union is almost certain, whichever one of the many methods of grafting is adopted. Another element of success, however, consists in a vigorous condition of growth in the stocks. Hence the importance of lining them out two or more years before working. Close to the ground, as already stated, is the best place for working the Pear on the Quince. The height is of less moment on Pear stocks. Low working is, however, the best for dwarf bush trees, cordons, and pyramids. For standards of all heights it is often a considerable saving of time and vital force to work the stocks at heights varying from three feet to six or more, ac- cording to the height the trees may be required for parks or orchards. The best sort of Pear scions are those of moderate erowth, chosen out of about the middle portion of shoots, growing in a semi-horizontal rather than a vertical direction. Double or Multiple Grafting (Fig. 32).—This must be looked upon rather as a mode of culture than ameans of propagation. It is, however, both, and as it may become more important, deserves notice here. Its theory rests on a mechanical rather than a vital basis, though, of course, it becomes a mixture of both. One or more foreign discs of living wood are intro- duced in the stem to foster, check, moderate, or control the passage of the sap. Hitherto the practice has been chiefly confined to Pears, but there is no THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 47 reason that it should not be extended to other fruit- trees, and it has been so applied to Grape-vines, &c. Of course, the closer the affinity between the different scions used, the less effective for obstruction or interference in double or multiple grafting. Hence, as there is considerable disparity of structure and rate of growth between the Pear and the Quince, the introduction of a piece of Quince wood between the seedling or wilding and the bearing Pear has been found to increase the fertility of the latter. Again, some Pears on the Quince grow indifferently ; and a free-growing Pear immediately over the root of the Quince, and this again worked with the desired variety, has been found to answer well. ‘The late duce those intermediary Pears between the two, and the weakly-growing Pears become strong, while the sterile sorts, such as Jargonelles, Bergamots, &c., become fruitful. Fig. 32 gives an illustration of double grafting. The base of the tree, a, is Quince, worked with the intermediary Pear, Beurre d’Amanlis, J, to insure growth. This is worked the following year with Maria Louise or any other Pear, ¢, and it is found that growth and fertility are thus nicely matched, and the result gives great satisfaction. Of course multiple grafting may be carried to any extent, though in actual practice it has seldom been carried further than double grafting. Fig. 32.—Double Graft. Mr. Thomas Rivers, of the Sawbridgeworth Nur- series, Herts, the originator of this method of culture, saw in it the germ of the greater stability of Pears on the Quince, and of freer growth and higher fertility for many varieties. Since the death of this gentleman, to whom we are indebted for so many of our fine modern Peaches and Nectarines, less has been heard of the practice, and double-grafted Pear- trees are seldom offered in the trade lists. Still the practice is full of scientific interest, and of practical results of great importance. Among the more notable failures of Pears on the Quince are the Maria Louise, Knight’s Monarch, the fine old Aromatic Pear, the Seckle or Trout, Gamnsel’s, and other Bergamots, Jargonelles, and some of the new Pears, such as Victoria and British Queen. Per contra, some Pears, such as Beurre d’Amanlis, Conseilleur de la Cour, Prince Albert, &c., take so freely on the Quince, and live so long on it, that they have become as it were the missing link between the Quince and those Pears that refuse to grow freely on it. Intro- Fig, 33.—Branch Grafting. Branch Grafting.—This is more a mode of culture than a means of propagation, but it will be most convenient toadvert to it here. It differs from other grafting in little excepting the place and the object of it. The place is on one or several of the side branches, and the object generally is to resusci- tate dilapidated trees with a fresh stock of wood, or substitute several varieties for one; also to fur- nish barren branches with fruit-buds. In Fig. 33 all these objects of branch grafting are illustrated. So soon as the scions are thoroughly established, the original branch is cut off at the cross dotted line near to a. The branches 8, c, are treated in the same way, and on each a different variety of Pear is used. Im this way, and by working each separate branch with a distinct sort of graft, a useful collec- tion of Pears may be grown on one espalier or wall tree. The other side of the tree is treated in quite a different way, to illustrate the mode of furnishing semi-barren trees with fruit-buds, as ex- plained presently, 48 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. Propagation by Cuttings.—Practically this is but seldom resorted to. It is so much easier to raise stocks from seeds and then graft the supe- rior sorts on the seedlings, that the raising of Pears from cuttings has been rather neglected. It is however, practicable with the majority of sorts, and of the usefulness and fertility of own-root Pear- trees there can be no doubt. There are two seasons when Pear-cuttings may be inserted with fair hopes of success. Oneis the dead season, say from October to the end of December, the earlier the better; the other is about the middle of July. The cuttings should be very similar at both seasons, a small piece of moderate-sized wood, from six to nine inches long, an inch or so in diameter, with a heel (see Rose- cuttings, pages 102 and 211, Vol. I.) of old wood attached. These should be inserted in hght sandy loam, and made as firm as possible. Of course the summer cuttings are inserted with all their leaves attached, unless those in the buried portion, and means should be taken by partial shade and over- head sprinkling to retain the leaves on the cuttings as long as may be. There are also other methods of rooting Pear-cuttings. Propagation by Buds.—This is more practised with the Pear than the Apple. Itis also adapted for several distinct purposes, as well as a means of pro- pagation. It is a convenient method of posting branches where they may be needed for furnishing or renewal, or to make good accidental failures, and as a mode of inserting fruit-buds where few or none have been produced on a branch or tree. As a means of propagation, budding, though less certain than grafting, is often convenient. It is practised ata different season, so that stocks that may have failed to take by grafting in the spring, may be budded in the summer, and thus converted into Pear-trees before the end of the season. There is no better mode of budding Pears for pur- poses of propagation than the common shield budding practised on the Rose. The treatment of the wood under the budsis quite a different matter. In budding at the pro- per season for propagation, the wood is best removed; some- times, however, owing to peculiarities of season or of varieties, this is difficult or impossible. In such cases budding must either be left undone, or else the section of wood must be left under -the bark intact. In such cases the segment of wood should be left as thin as practicable without unduly impinging on the root of the bud. (See Fig. 34.) Budding at other Seasons and for other Purposes than Propagation.—On the Con- tinent, where the grafting or budding of fruit- buds in the spring is much more practised than in England, buds something of the form or size of Fig. 35, with the woody sheath left intact, or clusters of buds as in Fig. 33, d, e, are mostly employed. When one bud, as in Fig. 35, is used, the process is called budding; when more than one, as in d, e (Fig. 33), it is called graft- ing. Skilfully performed, either process is alike useful and success- ful in transferring fruit-buds from where they are not needed to other parts of the same tree, or of different trees, where but for those transferred buds there would be few or no fruit. Budding with wood-buds in a dormant state may also be practised in the spring to furnish shoots, branch, or buds, where there would otherwise be a deficiency. With more expert and skilful manipu- lation it would probably become possible to have a fair crop of Pears most seasons, as it is comparatively rare to find a season in which few or many Pear-trees are not so over- crowded with fruit-buds as to offer a sufficient surplus for furnishing many other trees. Fig. 36 shows the surplus bud in Fig. 35 safely trans- ferred to the barren stem or branch of another tree. Propagation by Layers. — This, though quite practicable, is seldom adopted as a means of pro- pagation. (See Rose Layers, page 216, Vol. I.) Pear-layers, however, are treated somewhat differently, in- asmuch as the entire shoots are generally covered with soil with the exception of a single bud or two. This, however, is by no means essential to success, though it is the best mode of raising Pears and Quinces for stocks. Considerable difference of opinion prevails as to the best Quinces to grow for Pear stocks. The three best known are the Round or Apple Quince, the Ob- long or Pear Quince, and the Portugal, with fruit something like the latter, and the largest leaves of any. This fact and its freer growth render it the most generally used. Others, however, contend that this Quince is too gross for the Pear, and that the weaker-growing and smaller-leaved varieties are the best for small bush-trees for pot culture, orchard- houses, &e. So few Pears are grown on their own roots that THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 49. it is hardly worth while to name suckers as a means of propagation. PLANTING. The matter of planting has been so exhaustively dealt with in regard to the Apple (pages 249 to 253, Vol. II.) that it hardly seems needful to add much in regard to Pears, the general culture of which is almost identical; yet so important are Pears in a personal, pomological, and national point of view, that it will be wiser to run the risk of repetition than to leave anything unwritten ‘that would interest or assist the general public. Soil for the Pear.—In choosing a soil for the Pear it must be borne in mind that early and constant fertility for a quarter or half a century are the chief qualities for which we most prize the Pear; and among our first steps towards these attainments are the two arts of keeping its roots up and its tops down. The foundation of these must be laid in skilful planting, else will other efforts prove nugatory. Its boring tenden- cies may be arrested by amputation. This, for the moment, is a complete remedy ; but unless it kills the tree tue remedy is but temporary. With new roois comes the old boring tendency and power, and not seldom the last result of severely pruning Pear-trees has been worse than the first. Or the old roots may be finally got rid of. Finding the tendency of Pear- roots to run deeper and yet deeper down, the Pear is furnished with foster-roots on the Quince, that skim the surface. But allurement is really the higher art, and may prove equally or more successful without resource to such violent remedies. Recognising to the full the descending character and boring tendency of Pear- roots, it is yet possible to tempt them by gentle means into the best feeding-ground, and to keep them there by other methods than amputation, or the substitution of foreign roots for their own. Two courses are useful to this end, the removal of all substances that are hurtful or distasteful to the Pear-roots, and providing them with all that is most attractive in the exact spot they are desired to occupy. Where stagnant water exists it is useless to attempt growing Pears until it is removed. For the roots of Pears will not only find it sooner than those of Apples, but they will suffer more from it. Pears do fairly well in inferior soil and under un- favourable conditions of site and climate; but stag- nant water at or close to their roots is fatal; a dry base is, therefore, the foundation of their successful culture. The importance of a deep tilth will be obvious 76 from what has already been stated. A mean of. three feet has been given, but twice three to the water-line would be far safer, as on moist soils the water will rise several feet above the water- line, through the constant action and ceaseless energy of capillary attraction. This destroys the texture and converts in time the finest soil into something approaching sheer mud, totally unfit for the culture of Pears. Hence a porous bottom is. essential to Pear-culture, and over this from thirty inches to a yard or some four feet of good soil. The same soil as recommended for Apples will de well for Pears; a good holding fibrous loam, rather heavy than light, being the most suitable for durable - results. Loams from old and moderately fat pas- tures, or roadsides, are the very best for Pears, . and such loams should have no additions whatever. Once in full possession of such tempting soils, the roots seldom hurry out of them, and they, after a time, may have stronger and more attractive allure- ments provided for them in the form of surface mulching of manure or rich composts. These pro- vide food in plenty, without any of the textural or other drawbacks incident to the use of solid manure in the composts. The question of the best soil for Pears is, however, further complicated by that of stocks. Practically there may be said to be but two stocks for the Pear, the Quince and the wilding or seedling Pears. The Quince is not only more of a surface rooter than the Pear, but is far less particular about site and soil, and thrives under a far greater variety of con- ditions—for example, in lighter soils and damper situations. (See also Soils for Apples, pages 28 and. 29) Vol. If.) Sites and Shelter for Pears.—In discussing the bearing of stocks on soil, we have already touched on this subject, and have also referred to it at length in regard to Apples (page 27, Vol. II.). From the fact of Pears blooming earlier, they are yet more liable to injury, and the wreck of a crop often occurs from spring frosts in the trough of a valley, while those higher up on broken or rolling ground escape. In many districts the finer Pears need the shelter of dividing or encircling hedges or walls to bring them to perfection. Kitchen or fruit gardens in exposed situations should also have a second pro- tecting line of shrubbery beyond the walls; and these secondary shelters should never, as they mostly do, follow the line of the walls, but pro- ceed round the garden in a series of bold curves, the greatest convexity of the curves invariably presenting themselves to the force of prevailing winds, as these throw off and scatter to either side,. most potently and efficiently, the currents of cold air. 50 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. The Shelter of Walls.—The higher in reason the wall, the greater its efficacy. But this general principle needs to be modified in practice by another and an opposite fact, that may be stated thus :—The efficiency of walls as shelters and ameliorators of cli- mate is devised upon the give-and-take principle ; in other words, in so far as the favoured side of the wall is more warm, the shady side becomes colder; and this principle of reciprocity in the redistribution of caloric acts as a wholesome restraint in moderating the heights of walls. In practice, perhaps, the most useful height of Pear walls for sheltering and foster- ing the trees is twelve feet. Occasionally they are much higher than this—fourteen, sixteen, and even eighteen feet. More frequently they are lower— six, seven, eight, nine, and ten feet being common heights. All these are rather low for developing to the utmost the ameliorating influence of walls on local climate, and developing to the full the fruit- ing and growing capacities of healthy Pears. The warming power or heating force of walls is often much weakened by covering them too closely with the leaves and branches of trees. Such loose and verdant drapery absorbs and retains but little heat. Bricks, the best of all materials for walls, absorb, retain, and concentrate the solar rays into a sort of focus by day, thus raising the tempera- ture many degrees, and distribute it by night, to counteract the energy of radiation. ach exposed brick, or part of a brick, thus becomes an absorber, storer, and distributor of heat, and the wall, as a raiser of local temperature, is efficient in the ratio of its baldness, or nearly so. But, of course, walls are built chiefly to grow Pear or other trees on their surface, and the great practical problem for solution is the striking of a happy mean between the trees and the brick wall, so that the latter shall exert its maximum amount of heating force, and the trees produce as many and as fine Pears as practicable. ‘To combine these two to most advantage, the branches should average about a foot between them, whatever method of training may be adopted. There are also walls of dwelling-houses, farm buildings, stables, cart-sheds, carriage-houses, work- shops, factories, and maltings. The latter are espe- cially named, as some of the finest Pear-trees known to the writer are grown on maltings. Magnificent specimens of Maria Louise and other Pears are also grown on the gable-ends and other walls of lofty dwelling-houses. In planting Pears on specially high walls, special preparations should be made for them, and larger areas, nine or twelve feet over, and from four to five feet deep, should be carefully prepared for the trees. Pears also do well on wooden fences or espalier rails, and may be planted thickly on these to form fruit hedges in genial climes and warm localities. The Planting.—Little need be added here to what has already been stated under Appixes. Pears, however, may be planted a fortnight or three weeks earlier. The distance between Pears need differ but little from that of Apples (see Vol. II., p. 251). On high walls, and with vigorous-growing varieties on Pear- roots, the distances between Pears may be extended from twenty to twenty-five, or even thirty feet. In some of the old gardens the giant horizontal-trained Beurres and Bergamots used to be forty feet apart ; for orchard Pear-standards, from thirty to thirty- five feet between the rows, and twenty to thirty feet from plant to plant. But all this refers to Pear- trees on the Pear. The use of Quince stocks, the practice of root-pruning, and the introduction of cordons and other small trees, have wholly revolu- tionised the old ideas of distance, and resulted in what the old Pear-growers would have called an absurd multiplication of roots to areas. They how- ever mostly introduced a tall tree, or rider, between each two dwarfs. In addition to this, it was a com- mon practice to plant twice as many dwarfs at first as were required. Similar modes of econo- mising space were adopted in orchards. Tem- porary rows of trees, either dwarfs or standards, were planted between the permanent rows, and also between the permanent plants in the rows. By this simple method four times as many trees were grown at the first as were finally left, and the nurses or riders repaid the cost of their purchase and planting many times by their produce, before they were finally cleared off to make room for the permanent trees. In orchards, again, or Pear gardens, it is customary not only to sub-crop with temporary trees, but with other crops, such as bush-fruits and Strawberries ; and as the sub-crop is often almost as valuable as the super one, these under-crops exert a modifying influence on the distances of the Pears. Pears on the Quince and double-grafted Pears, also, should be planted as close again as those on the Pear. From fifteen to twenty feet apart is ample for Pear-trees on walls or espaliers worked on the Quince. It is customary to plant the same trees on espaliers four or five feet closer than on walls; as, of course, the espalier is not so warm, and does not foster growth to the same extent. From seven to ten feet would, therefore, be good distances for Pears on espaliers on the Quince. Pyramids vary so much in size and character, and rate of growth in different localities, that they may have as wide a range of distance as from five to twenty feet. For semi-weeping pyramids or Quenelle BULBOUS Pear-trees, distances of twenty, twenty-five, or thirty feet apart, are all alike good for profit and effect. With freer conditions as to distance, far greater freedom of growth may be allowed. Five or six feet apart are useful distances for ordinary pyramids. Planted about three rows deep in blocks, or as nearly as may be quincunx fashion, each plant will have as much room as possible in the most limited area. Bush Pears may be planted from four to five feet apart on the Quince, and from five to six on the Pear. But it must be berne in mind that root-prun- ing and frequent transplanting will repress growth almost as effectually as dwarfing stocks, and that where these and also summer pinching have been persistently followed, or are meant to be adupted, own-root Pears may be planted almost as closely as those on the Quince. This is especially true ot Pears struck from layers or cuttings. Cordons, as a rule, may be planted at distances of one foot to four. Fifteen and eighteen inches are good distances for vertical or oblique cordons. Where the run is long it is well to allow six inches more, as cordons are apt to broaden at the base in the ratio ot their length and their age. Double cordons should be planted double the distance, to permit of sufficient run on either side of the root-stock. U-shaped cordons on walls should not be nearer than two feet or thirty inches apart. Multiple, or three-branched cordons, should be planted three or three and a half feet apart. For diamond cor- dons the distance should never be less than fifteen inches asunder; eighteen is better. Even at these distances close spurring is needful, to prevent the diamonds growing up, and to insure abundance of light and air to every part of the tree and its fruit. There is yet another excellent use to which cordon Pears can be put, and to enable them to accomplish it well they should have ample space—say a yard, at least, apart. This is to run over iron or other arch- ways or arbours spanning the central or other walks of the fruit or kitchen garden. The roots of the Pear should be planted, that is covered, somewhat deeper than those of the Apple. It is not well to have the surface roots nearer to the surface than six inches. Rather more care must be taken in planting Pears on their own roots than those on the Quince. Pears, in fact, unless carefully pre- pared beforehand, do not move nor transplant kindly. The reason is obvious: they form very few fibrous roots, their fangs run down to unfathomable depths, and the major portion of these are mostly left in the ground through the thrust-and-pry mode of lifting Pear and other trees, in vogue in so many nurseries. These ragged, rent fangs must be carefully dressed before planting. As Pear-roots have such a strong tendency to descend, it is better in all cases, in plant- PLANTS. 51 ing. Pears on their own roots, to take some precaution- ary measures to prevent this. The first consists in making the bottom. of the hole as firm, smooth, and level as it can well be made. This simple preparation does much to give the roots a horizontal start, and if to this level hard base one or more slates or thin slabs of York or other stone are added, to forcibly check the downward digging tendency of Pear-roots, this will be all that is needful to give them a proper start, and to keep them in or near the surface tilths. Full instructions as to filling up, &c., have already been given for the planting of Apples, pages 252 and 253, Vol. II., and there is little or nothing more to be added. Use no leaf-mould, manure, or other rich compost in contact with the roots, only the finest, sweetest soil, in which the trees are to be grown. BULBOUS PLANTS. By WILLIAM GOLDRING. Barnardia scilloides.—This little plant from Macao much resembles a dwarf spring Scilla. It is rather a pretty plant, producing in autumn dense cylindrical spikes of flesh-tinted small flowers. It is not very hardy, but succeeds in a warm sunny border in light soil. It is also worth pot culture under a frame or hand-light. It belongs to the Lilyworts, and is lately called Scilla chinensis. Bellevallia romana.—A Lilywort, called also Hyacinthus romanus. It is a little dwarf plant, with grassy leaves, and has spikes of whitish flowers. It is not showy, and is only rarely seen except in full collections of bulbs. It is a native of France, the Pyrenees, and other southern districts, but is quite a hardy border plant with us. .B. dubia is sometimes mentioned in bulb catalogues, but like romana is scarcely worth the attention of the general cultivator now that really beautiful bulbous plants are so numerous. There are two or three new kinds re- cently introduced, but they have not yet found their way into English gardens. One named atroviolacea promises to be a showier plant than B. romana. Bessera elegans.—This is a charming Mexican bulb of the Amaryllis family, possessing elegant erowth, bright and cheerful flowers, rendering it a most desirable plant for frame or green-house culture. It is of slender growth, the flower-stems being about a foot in height, terminated by umbels of star-shaped blossoms, each about an inch across, of wax - like texture. They are of a bright scarlet-red, the in- terior of the sepals being white, with a stripe of red on each, while the stamens are tipped with purple. 42 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. It is, therefore, different from any other bulbous plant in respect of colour, and the fact that it con- tinues in flower for several weeks greatly increases its value as an ornamental plant. It flowers during July and August. Being a native of Mexico it is not hardy in this country, therefore must have the protection ofa frame or cool green-house, or any place where it would be protected, but it dislikes artificial heat, though an abundance of sun-heat is necessary to enable it to ripen its bulbs. The best way to grow it is to pot the bulbs in March, plunge the pot in ashes in a frame protected by a light, and there allow it to remain until it has flowered and perfected its growth, when the bulbs, in pots, may be stored in some dry place during winter. It may be grown successfully on a green-house shelf, the conditions to observe being plenty of light and sunshine and air, and a good supply of water when in full growth. Bloomeria aurea.—A pretty Californian bulb of slender growth, the stems being from six inches to eighteen inches high, bearing an umbelled cluster of small golden-yellow flowers on slender stalks. It is not a common plant, but is enumerated in nursery catalogues. It may be grown successfully in a warm sunny border of light soil, but itis best to lift the bulbs annually in autumn, and keep them in dry soil or sand till early spring. Bobartia aurantiaca.—A pretty plant of the Tris family, a native of the Cape of Good Hope. It grows about a foot high, has narrow foliage, and pro- duces on its-.slender stems a succession of star-like orange-yellow flowers. Being somewhat tender it requires the same treatment recommended for Ixias and bulbs of that class. In southern districts, if planted on rockwork and protected in winter, it has proved tolerably hardy, but it is best when grown in pots or frames. Bowiea volubilis.—Although an interesting Cape bulb this is by no means attractive, the flowers being very green and inconspicuous; but being almost hardy and ofa climbing habit of growth, many may like to grow it against a wall. Planted at the foot of a few dead branches against a wall, so that the stems may twine among them, this plant forms a peculiarly interesting object in a garden. Bravoa geminifiora (Scarlet Twin-Flower).— An extremely pretty Mexican plant, graceful in growth and bright in colour. When well grown, the flower-stems are between two feet and three feet high, and are stout enough to carry themselves erect. All along their upper parts they are thickly hung with scarlet tubular flowers, which are arranged in pairs and prettily droop. In warm and sheltered localities the Bravoa is hardy if planted in ight and well-drained soils, but it is advisable to protect the bulbs by ashes or leaves during the winter. Even in places where it is not hardy it is worth growing in pots for the green-house, as it flowers in autumn and lasts a long time in bloom. A group of Bravoas in flower in the open air, forms one of the prettiest sights possible in the autumn garden. Brevoortia coccinea.— Another name for Brodiea coccinea, chiefly used by American botanists. B. Ida-Maia is also a synonym for it. Brodiza. — The Brodigas, together with their near allies the Millas and Triteleias, are pretty Cali- fornian bulbs, and most desirable to cultivate, as they possess a beauty peculiar to themselves. For the most part, the Brodigas are quite hardy in this country, provided we endeavour to imitate, as far as practicable, the warm sandy plains of- their native land. This we can do ina great measure by select- ing the sunniest and driest spots in the garden, and for that matter we can protect them by glass frames ; indeed, in some localities this is essential in order to be at all successful with them. As a general rule, however, the Brodigas may be said to be hardy peren- nials, springing up year after year, and requiring no attention beyond that of, keeping them within bounds —for some, such for instance as B. congesta, are much given to rambling, and seeds and offshoots spring up around the parent bulbs in all directions, in light warm soil, where they have found a congenial home. The following species are usually known in gardens as Brodieas, but some of the species of Milla and the genera Triteleia and Seubertia are often classed with Brodiea. ; B. coccinea.—One of the prettiest and most elegant of hardy bulbs, and, moreover, quite different from all others. Like all the species, it is of slender growth, the leaves being about two feet long when well grown, and the flower-stems grow from two to four feet in height. The blossoms are borne in droop- ing clusters of from eight to twenty on a stem. They are tubular, about two inches long, of a deep crim- son colour tipped with green—a striking contrast of colours. It commences to flower about the end of May, and continues for some weeks. ‘This is a most manageable bulb, not being atall fastidious as to soil so long as it is not heavy. It thrives best in a warm sandy loam in a sunny position. It is seen to the best advantage after it has been established some years, it being one of those bulbs which dislike fre- quent re-planting. When the bulbs show signs of weakness through exhaustion of the soil or other cause, they should be transplanted to richer soil, and . BULBOUS at the same time the bulblets may be separated for propagation. ‘This should be done about September, after the foliage is matured. In no case should planting be delayed beyond October. This bulb is sometimes called Breevortia coccinea. B. congesta.—A vigorous-growing plant, very soon establishing itself in any light soil, and not unfre- _ quently becoming a weed. It has narrow leaves, and produces, from May to July, numerous slender flower- stems, terminated by a dense cluster of showy purplish-mauve flowers, which remain in perfection for some weeks. There is a white-flowered variety (alba) which, however, israre. This species is per- fectly hardy and requires no care if planted in a light soilin a sunny spot. JB. capitata isa similar plant, but not so desirable. B. grandiflora—A beautiful species with flower- stems rising about a foot high, carrying clusters of flowers varying from purple to a pale rose-colour. There is a variety called major, which is a larger plant with finer flowers. B. multifiora.—This is even a showier plant than B. congesta, the flowers being larger and the colour, a deep purple-blue, much brighter. The flowers are produced in broad globular clusters on stems shorter than the leaves, which at once distinguishes it from other species. It flowers about the beginning or middle of May. It requires the same treatment as B. congesta and B. grandifiora. B. volubilis.—This is a most curious bulb, it being one of the few climbing bulbous plants. The flower- stems possess the climbing tendency, and very often reach from ten to fifteen feet in height, twisting like Scarlet Runner Beans around anything they come in contact with. Therefore it should always be provided with a support, such as a Pea stick or bush, to climb upon. Unless it has some support the plant does not thrive. The stems, which are very brittle, pro- duce dense clusters of flowers at their tops. The blooms are of a bright rose-colour, produced about midsummer. ‘The proper name is Stropholirion cali- Sornicum. _ Brunsvigia.—These are South African plants of the Amaryllis family, and numbering about eight species, but only a few of these are at present in gardens. They are all characterised by their large bulbs, broad foliage, and by their flowers being borne in many-flowered umbel-like clusters on stout stems, produced in autumn before the foliage. Being natives of the hot sandy plains of South Africa, they require all the direct sun-heat and light which it is possible to give them in this country, They there- fore succeed best when the bulbs are allowed full ex- posure to the sun and kept dust-dry after the foliage has decayed. Where no special house for bulb culture PLANTS. 53 exists, a good place for the Brunsvigias, Buphanes, and bulbs of a like description, is on a shelf of an airy and unshaded green-house. Starting from the point, say, when the bulbs are received from the Cape, they should not have a drop of water until either flower-spikes or leaves show indications of spring- ing up. If the bulb contains a flower-spike this will be probably developed if no water is given, but if watered the leaves would appear, and sometimes no flower-spike. Large bulbs of this nature are very apt to decay if care be not taken in watering ; if kept without water for half the year they would not only not suffer, but in many cases would be the better for it. If the bulb repeatedly year after year develops foliage instead of flower-spikes, the same course must be pursued of baking it in the sun when resting, and watering freely when in leaf, until the bulb is strong enough to flower. Any light kind of soil will suit these bulbs, so long as it is moderately rich, and open enough to allow of a free percolation of water. They may be increased, but very slowly, by offsets; but, as they are imported direct at a flowering age, home propagation is not worth the trouble. Among the species in cultivation the two best known are :— B. Josephine, producing a huge spreading cluster of many flowers of a reddish-scarlet colour, there- fore very showy in flower. B. muitifiora, also a noble plant when in flower, is more scarlet than the preceding. A variety of this species named minor is also in cultivation. Bulbocodium.—One of the earliest of open-air spring flowers is the little Bulbocodium vernum, a common plant in old gardens. It much resembles a Crocus or a Colchicum in the form and colour of its blossoms. These expand just before the leaves un- fold, one by one, and day after day; until the sheaths, which contain half a dozen flowers, are exhausted. The colour of the flowers is a bright violet-purple, varying in shade in different plants. Such a pretty bulb is therefore indispensable in the spring garden, associated with Snowdrops, early Crocuses, Snow- flakes, and others. Being so dwarf, never more than six inches high, it is a capital plant for a sunny spot in the rocky garden, where it would flower sometimes as early as January, while plants grown in the borders, being later, would extend the flowering season for several weeks. It likes a sandy loam best to grow in, and like most other bulbs it prefers being undisturbed for at least three years, but for the pur- pose of increasing it the bulbs may be taken up and divided and re-planted ; as it produces numerous offsets, the produce from one mass is sufficient to re-plant a large space with the bulbs about four inches apart. Bulbs pottedin August, and placed in frames, 54 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. will produce flowers much earlier than out-of-door bulbs. It is a native of the Alps of Europe, and be- longs to the same order as the Colchicum. ‘There is a variegated-leaved form, but it is rare. There is another species, B. trigynwm, also in gardens, though rarely met with. It is not so desirable, as it flowers when there are hosts of other plants in bloom. Buphane.—The two or three South African plants comprised in this genus of Lilyworts are unimportant for general cultivation. They have large coated bulbs, which, before the leaves are produced, send up stout flower-stems, terminated by large and dense umbel-like clusters of flowers. These in B. toxicaria (the Poison Bulb) are pinkish ; in B. disticha, flesh-tinted ; and in B. ciliaris, in which the flowers are more numerous, they are pur- plish-violet. Culture the same as Brunsvigia. Calliphruria.—The three plants belonging to this genus of the Amaryllis family are so nearly allied to Eucharis that some botanists now include them in that genus. In gardens, however, it is con- venient to consider the two genera as distinct, for, while the Hucharises are all valuable plants, the Calliphrurias are comparatively unimportant. All the latter have foliage much resembling that of the Eucharises, so similar, indeed, that the plants of the two genera are often confused. The leaves vary in size and form in each of the three species. The flower-stems are produced as in Lucharis, but the flowers are different in shape, being much smaller, tubular, and funnel-shaped. The flowers are pure white, and about a dozen are produced on each spike, so that the plants when in flower are pretty. The species are C. Hartwegiana, which was the first introduced, C.:edentata, and C. subedentata. These differ but slightly in general appearance from each other. It is one of these species that was put in commerce as Hucharis candida, and when not in flower the plants are scarcely distinguishable. The bulbs, however, of Calliphruria are more pointed. The Calliphrurias require the same treatment as Eucharis. All three species are natives of tropical South Ame- rica, chiefly found in Columbia and New Grenada. Calliprora lutea.—A Californian Liliaceous plant allied to Brodiea, in which genus it is included by some botanists under the name of B. ixioides. It is a neat-growing little plant, having slender flower- stems, averaging about a foot high, terminated by a cluster of starry flowers of a bright yellow striped with brown. Being hardy it may be planted out in a warm border of light soil in a sunny spot, where it propagates itself freely. It is alsoa pretty plant grown in pots for the green-house. Its pot culture It flowers It is also known under the name is similar to that recommended for Jzia. in early summer. of C. flava. Callipsyche aurantiaca.— This is the only cultivated species of the three comprised in this genus of the Amaryllis family. C. awrantiaca is rather a handsome plant, having deciduous foliage, and, like the Guernsey Lily, produces its flowers before the leaves are developed. ‘The flower-stem is tall and fleshy, and bears numerous tubular flowers of a warm yellow. It is a near ally of Phedranassa, and its flowers somewhat resemble those of that genus. It is a native of tropical America, therefore requires stove culture—plenty of heat and moisture while in active growth, a lower temperature and dryness while the bulbs are resting. Calochortus (Mariposa or Butterfly Lily).— Throughout the whole range of bulbs there could not be found more beautiful plants than the Calochorti. Exquisitely graceful in growth, possessing flowers both beautiful in form and delicate in colour, they are worthy of the cultivator’s best attention. For many years some of the species have been introduced and cultivated, yet they are but little known in ordi- nary gardens, and the reputation they have long borne of being difficult to cultivate with success has, no doubt, contributed to their neglect. Now, however, that they have been introduced in quantities, and are consequently less expensive, their culture is becoming better understood. The Calochorti are a comparatively new race of garden plants, all the species now in gardens having been introduced within the last fifty years. It was principally owing to the exertions of the Californian botanical traveller, Douglas, that we derived our first knowledge of them, and since his time their intro- duction has been gradual, until now we have in gar- dens the majority of the species that are known to botanists. These number some three dozen, with several varieties. The genus is essentially North American, its head- quarters being California, while outlying species reach Mexico, but none are found east of the Rocky Mountains, or north of California. The Calochorti, therefore, inhabiting such sunny climes, are but ill- adapted to face our unprotected changeable climate, with its cold and wet winters, and it is on this account that they have the reputation of possessing such delicate constitutions. The Calochorti form such a distinct race of Lily- worts, that they cannot be confused with any other genus. The thirty odd species known are divided now by botanists into two groups, the Cyclobothra group and the Mariposa group. The Cyclobothras BULBOUS PLANTS. hare, until recently, been regarded as a genus dis- tinct from true Calochortus, and certainly they are very different in appearance, but as they are by general consent classed under Calochortus they will be considered as such here. The Mariposa section all have large open flowers, cup-shaped and erect. In the Cyclobothra section the flowers are smaller than those of the Mariposa species, and the petals are in some species globular in shape on account of the petals being incurved. In nearly all the species the petals are covered on their inner surfaces more or less densely with white hairs, and each petal bears a glandular pit at its base. The leaves of all are narrow and few, and of a silvery hue. The range of colour is not wide, varying only from white to yellow and purple, the prevailing tint being lilac. Culture.—The complaint that Calochorti are diffi- cult to cultivate successfully is general. Itis our long sunless and damp winters that prevent us from growing them out of doors, but if we were always favoured with long hot and dry summers, we could grow Calochort: to perfection. Hence they cannot be classed with hardy bulbs, although they abhor artificial heat. Frame culture, therefore, must as a rule be followed in this country, for although in - favoured localities some cultivators plant the bulbs out in the open border in early spring, and lift them again in August or September for the winter, the practice cannot be generally followed, and as the species vary in degree of hardiness, they cannot be srown successfully under one mode of treatment, but the general principle of culture applies to all. The Californian species are much hardier than those in- habiting Mexico, though the latter are easier to grow, as they may be treated like G/adioli and such- like plants, that is, the bulbs may be planted in spring, lifted in autumn, and stored dry during winter. On the other hand, the Californian kinds must not be kept out of soil during winter. They should be planted in September or not later than October, though they must be kept moderately dry until the bulbs begin to develop leaves about February. A warm, sunny, and thoroughly drained border, with a southerly aspect, must be chosen for them, and provision should be made for protecting the boréer with glass, in order to throw off the wet, until the leaves appear above the soil in early spring. The most suitable soil is a rich sandy loam, the lighter the better, and the bed should be raised above the general level. This protection is in imitation of their natural conditions, as they are invariably covered with alayer of frozen snow, which protects “the bulbs from wet and cold, and when the snow melts in spring the bulbs at once start into active growth. The foliage is not abundant in any of the species, and by the time the flowers appear in June Ov Ov or July the leaves curl up and wither. Most of the species are remarkably floriferous, for every small bulb will develop several flower-stems. The bulbs of the few Mexican species may be planted in March under the same conditions, and lifted, after their foliage and flower-stems are decayed, and stored in dry earth through the winter. After the plants are in active growth they require plenty of moisture about their roots, and all the light possible, so that it is better to allow them to be fully exposed from about March until after the flowering season, when the glass may be put over the border again in order to keep off rains and so induce the thorough ripening of the bulbs before being lifted. When the plants are thriving well annual lifting is needless. The hardiest of all the Calochorti is C. pulchellus, and this species succeeds admirably when planted at the foot of a warm wall. In such a position it flowers year after year without any attention. The following species of Calochortus (including those belonging to the sub-genus Cyclobothra) are the principal species in cultivation, and procurable in nurseries at prices varying from 2s. to 10s. a dozen bulbs. C. (Cyclobothra) albus.—An elegant plant, growing in England about six or nine inches high, but attain- ing inits native habitat in California as much as three feet high. The flowers are somewhat globular, nodding, and white, and of wax-like texture, pro- duced several together on a branching stem. The variety paniculatus is a fine strong-growing variety. C. (Cyclobothra) Benthamii.—A very charming little plant, somewhat resembling the preceding, but with narrower leaves and with the flowers nearly erect. These are bright yellow, with the petals, which are half an inch long, deep brown at the inner base and covered with hairs. It inhabits the Sierra Nevada. C. (Cyclobothra) Bonplandianus,—This species was cultivated years ago in gardens under the name of Cyclobothra purpurea, and is the same as Calochortus purpureus, It has a branching stem about a foot high. The flowers are nodding and _ bell-shaped, with yellowish sepals and purple petals. It is found in Mexico along with another and similar species, C. fuseus, also a Cyclobothra, at once recognised by its dull coffee-coloured flowers. C. Hartwegi is also a nearly-allied species, having purplish petals with dark veins. All these are natives of Mexico. -C. (Cyclobothra) ceruleus—A dwarf slender plant, having a branching stem, carrying from two to five flowers. These are lilac, dotted and lined with blue, and hairy in the interior; called also Cyclobothra elegans, C. cerulea, and Calochortus glaucus. The true C. elegans is a similar species, but has greenish-white petals, purplish at the base; and its variety nanus, known also as (. Lyelli, is a very dwarf and slender 56 | CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. plant inhabiting the Siskiyou mountains of Cali- fornia. C. Yolmiei is a stouter and taller plant than elegans, and its flowers are more tinged with lilac- purple. Itis grown in gardens, but rare. C. flavus is a Mexican species of the Cyclobothra section, having tall, slender, and branching stems, and smallish, nodding, yellow blossoms. C. Greene belongs to the large-flowered or Mariposa section of the genus. It is a very handsome plant, having a stout branching flower-stem about a foot high, carrying from two to five large open flowers, with lilac petals, barred below with yellow, and more or less of purple, and loosely covered interiorly with hairs. It is a rare species in gardens, but may be purchased at nurseries where these bulbs are a speciality. OC. nitidws is a similar species. C. Gunnisonii.—One of the Mariposa section, hav- ing light lilac flowers, banded and lined with purple. A beautiful species, very rare in cultivation, and native of the Rocky Mountains. C. lilacinus.—This is the lovely little plant which is known in English gardens under the name of (. uniflorus, and it was figured as such in the Botanical Magazine, but the true C. wniflorus is not yet intro- duced. C. lilacinus bears open cup-shaped flowers, about two inches across, and from four to ten on each branching stem. They are of a delicate soft mauve tint, and hairy interiorly. C. nudus, called also C. elegans subclavatus, is a similar species. C. luteus, one of the best known and most beau- tiful, belongs to the Mariposa section. It has slender stems, bearing from one to six flowers. These are about three inches across, in form like an erect cup, with the three broad petals slightly reflexed. They vary from pale yellow toa deep yellow, and are hairy on the inside, and usually tinged with reddish-brown. In the variety citrinus (C. venustus citrinus of some botanists) the whole flower is of a deep yellow, with a central circular brown spot, while in the variety oculatus the petals are white, lilac, or yellowish, with a similar dark central spot at the base of the petals. C. clavatus and C. aureus are similar species not yet introduced. C. dutews is one of the gems among bulbous plants, and is worth a great deal of trouble to cultivate successfully. C. macrocarpus.—A rare species of the Mariposa section, having a tall, rigid stem, generally bearing but one flower. This is larger than those of the other species, and ofa pale purple-lilac. This delicate tint, combined with the handsome form of the flower, renders it very beautiful. Z C. Maweanus.—A small-growing plant, in the way of C. elegans. Its dwarf stems are much branched, and bear several small. flowers, white or pale lilac, and very hairy interiorly. This pretty little species is often confused in English gardens with C. elegans. C. Nuttallii. — One of the Mariposa or large- flowered group, and extremely handsome. Its stems are slender, about a foot high, and bear from one to five flowers, about three inches across, the petals being white, tinged with yellow or lilac, with a pur- plish band or spot above the yellow base. It is the ‘same plant as that called in gardens C. Leitchlinii, under which name it was figured in the Botanical Magazine, It has a wide distribution in California, often occurring as a dwarf Alpine in the Sierra Nevada mountains. C. (Cyclobothra) pulchellus is one of the most beau- tiful, and, at the same time, the hardiest of all the Calochorti in cultivation. It is nearly allied to C. albus, and was one of the first introduced by the tra- veller Douglas. Well grown it is a foot or more in height, and the branched stem carries several nodding flowers, globose in form, and of a bright yellow, often a deep orange. The leaves and stem being glaucous- white harmonise beautifully with the golden flowers. This species is so hardy and vigorous as to be quite amenable to border culture in a light sandy soil, which treatment suits it far better than being coddled in pots. It never grows finer than when planted at the foot of a warm wall, where its bulbs can be thoroughly ripened every year. In such a position it comes up year after year, getting stronger and stronger, and never requires to be lifted or even protected during winter. These remarks apply to the climate of London and southward. Northward the plant may in some places need protection. It is so distinct from all the rest that it is not likely to be confused with any other, and it has no synonyms. C. splendens.—This and C. venustus and C. luteus are the largest-flowered and showiest species in the genus, and they are now tolerably common in English gardens. C. splendens resembles C. luteus in manner of growth, as also in the size and form of the flower, but the petals instead of yellow are of a clear lilac, with numerous white hairs scattered over the inner surfaces, and with a densely hairy gland or pit at the base of each. A well-grown plant of the species is about a foot high, and each stem bears several flowers. In gardens it is often confused with C. venustus, from which it may be at once distinguished by the absence of the dark blotch at the base of the petals. There is a pure white variety (albus), but it is extremely rare in gardens. C. flexuosus, a simi- lar, but stouter and taller plant, is so rare that it need scarcely be mentioned. C. Palmerii, an allied species, is beautiful, but very rare. C. venustus is undoubtedly the queen of the genus, and is, fortunately, as easily managed as any of the Mariposas. It has large and exquisitely formed flowers, similar to C. dutews. The three broad petals, which assume a cup-like form, with a recurved BULBOUS PLANTS. 57 —_— rim, vary from pure white to deep lilac. There is, therefore, more diversity of colour in this species than in any other. The original form has pale lilac petals, with a large blotch of reddish-brown near the base of CALOCHORTUS each, and this spot is always bordered with yellow. It is the contrast of the delicate body-colour of the flower with these conspicuous blotches, which renders this species so beautiful. The chief varieties are albus, pure white ; brachysepalus, with shorter petals than the type, less conspicuously spotted ; Jidacinus, of a beautiful deep lilac; purpurascens, deep lilac- purple. Other varieties are: Emperor, with large flowers of a deep purple, produced later than the other varieties; rosews, an early form, with rose- tinted flowers; and oculatus, of a bright purple-rose, y \ ys SS \ . ‘ \ead\ SSE "py. \\ \ \ \ S SS=4 Wi] || i | ( ‘ i tt \ ~ i Ih Nan ° ~ Ni p i \\ \ \ \ \ i \ VENUSTUS. with a very deep blotch, almost black. Undcr the most favourable conditions C. venustus may be grown very large, with stems as much as two feet high, and some sorts, such as Emperor, attain even a larger size than that. Asa general rule all the Mariposas require frame-culture, as recommended, although in some localities they thrive perfectly in the open, 58 CASSELL’S POPULAK GARDENING. unprotected even in winter, if the soil is light and well drained. C.Weedui is the same plant as that illustrated in the Botanical Magazine as C. citrinus. It isa very beau- tiful plant, in the way of Juteus, having large, deep yellow petals, dotted and margined with purple. It may be purchased in bulb nurseries, but is not yet plentiful. A nearly-allied species, also in cultivation, is C. Kennedyi. It is a stronger-growing plant than Weedii, and has reddish-orange flowers, blotched at the base of the petals with purple. PROPAGATION. By W. WamTSON. CUTTINGS (continued). Bedding - plants.—The herbaceous character and free-growing nature of the majority of plants that are used for summer bedding out of doors, renders their propagation easy. Large numbers of plants are required in as short a time as possible, and without the expenditure of much time or labour, and unless a plant is easily propagated, it is of little value in the bedding department. Autumn propa- gation is preferred for the more robust of these plants, cuttings at that time being both plentiful and vigo- rous, and the season favourable for the quick pro- duction of roots. If the necessary preparation of beds, boxes, frames, and soil has been attended to, the whole of the cuttings may be got in during August and rooted before the approach of cold weather. It may be laid down as a general rule, that all stout, free-growing cuttings prefer a strong loamy soil, whilst those of a more delicate nature, and that have fewer roots, are safest when planted in light sandy soil, containing a large proportion of leaf-mould. Zonal Pelargoniums strike freely at this time of the year, if sturdy, ripe cuttings are placed in beds of light sandy soil, in a_ semi- sheltered situation. These cuttings should be planted firmly, in rows about six inches apart, and should receive a good watering as soon as planted, after which they will require little attention beyond the removal of dead leaves and a sprinkling of water overhead, should the weather be dry. As soon as rooted, or at least before the approach of cold, wet weather, they should be placed in the boxes, pans, or pots in which they are to winter. For smaller quantities it will be found best to plant the cut- tings in shallow boxes, in which they may be allowed to remain until the spring. Calceolarias are gene- rally propagated by means of cuttings placed in frames, the soil in which is made up of equal por- tions of sand, loam, and leaf-mould, and in these frames they are allowed to remain until the spring, protection from severe frost being given by means of mats or straw. Pansies, Pentstemons, Phloxes, Pinks, Antirrhi- nums, and a host of other bedding-plants of robust constitution, may be increased in the autumn in the above way. Boxes thirty inches long, by twelve inches wide, and four inches deep, are most con- venient for these purposes. The bottom should be pierced with several holes, an inch or more in diameter, and covered with aninch of ashes or crocks as drainage, the box being then filled up with sandy soul, using loam, leaf-mould, or whatever mixture the nature of the cuttings would require. This subject and that of the next paragraph have been treated in practical detail in Mr. Wildsmith’s articles upon THE FLOWER GARDEN. Carnations and Picotees.—Where a quan- tity of these plants are required for use in common bedding, cuttings should be selected in the autumn, and planted in glazed boxes in sandy loam. The portions of the plant most fitted to be chosen as cut- tings are the lower lateral shoots, from four inches to six inches in length, which should be pulled rather than cut away from the leading shoot, so that a portion of the ripened wood will remain to form a “heel,’’ which in these plants imsures safety in rooting. Plant the cuttings firmly, and keep them almost air-tight until they have rooted. If a posi- tion on a warm border is chosen, where only during a few hours in the middle of the day the sun would not shine upon the boxes, the percentage of rooted plants would be large. A host of herbaceous plants much used in mixed beds or borders, or the front rows in the shrubbery, may be rooted thus, and a good stock of sturdy little plants be got in readiness for spring planting. Dahlias.—Many of the single kinds of Dahlia are raised from seeds sown in the spring, but for the multiplication of named kinds, and also for the double varieties, either division of the roots is re- sorted to, or, if a number of each be required, cut- tings are procured by treating the old stools as follows :—Early in February or March, the old tuberous roots that were lifted in the autumn and stored in frost-proof quarters should be examined, and a selection made of the kinds of which young plants are required. Prepare a bed in a warm house or propagating-pit, a position under the stage in a stove being, perhaps, the most suitable. Any soil, or even cocoa-nut fibre, will answer to plant the Dahlia-roots in, all that is required being sufficient depth to cover the tubers, and to afford a little nourishment to the new growth. From the base of PROPAGATION. 59 last year’s stem a number of suckers will be deve- loped, which, when about six inches long, should be cut away, with, if possible, a small portion of the old wood attached, and these, if planted in thumb- pots in sandy soil, and placed in a close propagating- frame, will soon root, after which they may be eradually hardened off, until ready for planting out of doors. A large number of deciduous, tuberous- rooted perennials may be propagated in this way— Hollyhocks, Dichorisandras, Cannas, Begonias, and lirythrinus being some of the most familiar. All the semi-tropical bedding-plants that need con- siderable heat in winter are best managed by striking a few strong cuttings of each in the autumn, and rely- ing upon the supply of cuttings these will yield in spring if properly treated. Coleus, Alternantheras, Mesembryanthemums, Iresines, Lobelias, Verbenas, Ageratums, Cupheas, Heliotropes, Salvias, belong to this class. If cuttings are not struck in the autumn, a few of the old plants of each must be lifted from the beds and established in pots, and these, if win- tered in a dry house where the frost is excluded, will commence to grow freely in the spring. These spring growths strike freely in a moist, humid atmosphere, and as the cuttings grow, their tops in turn may be taken and made into other cuttings, and so on until the required quantity of plants has been obtained. Orchids.—The propagation of these plants has hitherto received little attention, owing to the demand for them having been met by the enormous number of imported plants with which the market has been kept supplied. When the localities in which these plants are at present found in more or less abundance bhe- come exhausted, we shall be compelled to turn to the propagator’s art for our supply of a large number of the kinds. The majority of Orchids, however, can only be increased by means of division and of seeds. Nevertheless the pseudo-bulbs of such species or genera as are long and noded, such as many of the Dendrobiums, Thunias, Epidendrums, and Barkerias, may be multiplied by means of portions of their pseudo-bulbs, upon which latent buds are formed, whilst many others, such as Odontoglossums, Ly- castes, Coelogynes, &c., may be propagated by severing the pseudo-bulbs from the rhizomes, a portion of the latter being left attached to each cutting, and placing them under conditions favour- able to the production of roots. Dendrobiums.—The majority of these plants are characterised by long noded pseudo-bulbs, which resemble bamboo-canes, and along which are deve- loped, first the flowers, and, under certain conditions, these are followed by a number of young plants or suckers, which even in a very early stage of their growth are well furnished with roots. These suckers may be severed from the parent bulb, and planted in the ordinary way. The formation of these offsets is natural to most Dendrobiums, and in some of the species a good number of them are annually produced. The numbers of such offsets may be increased by the removal of the flower-buds before they open. By re- moving the pseudo-bulbs from the plant, cutting them into lengths of about six inches, and fastening them to a sphagnum-covered raft or block, or placing them on a bed of sphagnum in a close frame, suckers will be produced at almost every node. It will be founda wise plan to remove each sucker from the parent bulb as soon as roots are formed, so that the cutting will not be exhausted before the whole of the buds have vegetated. The practice of cutting away all the old pseudo-bulbs from Dendrobiums after they have flowered, and as soon as the new growths have commenced to grow, is advocated by several successful Orchid cultivators, and whatever the effect of such treatment may have in the production of strong free- flowering growths, it is one which affords an excellent supply of materials for increasing the stock of kinds in the manner above advised; for although the production of suckers is larger when the pseudo- bulbs are not allowed to bear flowers, yet a good supply may be had from them even after they have flowered. Thunias are increased by cutting up the ripened pseudo-bulbs in lengths with a node each, and planting them in pots of sand, which should be placed on a shelf in a warm house, and kept supplied with sufficient moisture to prevent the cuttings from shrivelling. Calanthes.—These are propagated by cutting each bulb through the middle transversely, and placing them upon pots of moist sphagnum or silver sand, where they will soon callus and develop several buds round the base of each cutting. Aerides, Saccolabiums, Angreecums, Vandas, and other Orchids of similar habit, may be increased by removing the leading shoot, and placing it in sand and sphagnum to strike, thereby causing the stem .of the plant to push lateral shoots, which may be removed and potted as soon as strong enough. Anectochili and many other of the creeping herba- ceous Orchids are increased by cutting their stems into as many pieces as there are nodes, and placing them upon sand and sphagnum until they have emitted roots and pushed forth fresh growths. Phalenopsis are generally multiphed by means of lateral breaks from the bases of old plants. In addi- tion to this, some of them, such as P. amabilis, P. rosea, P. Schilleriana, and P. Stuartiana, have the pecuhar habit of developing plantlets on the flower- scapes after the flowers have withered, so that if the 60 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. plants are sufficiently strong to bear this additional tax on their food-supplying power, the flower- scapes should be allowed to remain on them until the young plants appear. ‘This viviparous character of the flower-spike is found in some of the Odonto- glossums, Oncidiums, Epidendrums, and several other genera. Division at the root is, however, the most universally practised of the methods of propagation for these plants, and to this we shall again refer under the section ‘“ Division.” (See also articles on ‘‘ Seed-raising ” and ‘‘ Hybridisation.’’) Succulents.—The nature of these plants is such as renders their increase by means of cuttings easy. Their skin is so formed that perspiration takes place - very slowly through it unless under the influence of powerful stimulants, and when in a young state. This enables them to remain plump and uninjured by long exposure to drought. In the same way when pieces of their stems or branches are removed, these have stored up in their fleshy portions an abundance of food and moisture, which not only keeps the severed parts in health till roots are formed, but contri- butes to their early formation. For some of the weaker and more delicate succu- lents which are found amongst the Cactus group, grafting is sometimes found more suitable than cut- tings on their own roots. The Epiphyllums, Rhip- salis, and a few Mamillarias, are of these. Even these are, however, easily increased by means of cuttings in the ordinary way ; and, indeed, plants on their own roots, instead of grafted ones, are preferred by some cultivators. The Cacti order is composed exclusively of succu- lents, and to the numerous useful garden plants which are included in the genera Phyllocactus, Echinocactus, Cereus, Epiphyllum, Mamillaria, and Opuntia we will turn first. For the branching genera, 1.é., Phyllocactus, Epiphyllum, &c., all that . is necessary is to remove portions of the shoots, large or small, according as they can be spared, and after allowing their wounds to dry by lying exposed for a day or two, to place them in a moist soil in a warm house. Here they will form roots in a few days. Roots are emitted by cuttings of these plants, even, when left with their bases exposed, if the temperature of the house in which they stand is sufficiently warm and humid. Large branches of these plants root just as readily as small ones, for we have seen branches of Opuntias and Cereus of very large size removed from stems which have become leggy, and after-a few days’ exposure, planted in soil, when they have rooted without showing the least sign of suffering. “In the lavas at the foot of Altna,” De Candolle observes, “ Opuntias are- largely multiplied as fol- lows :—As soon as a fissure is perceived, a branch of an Opuntia is stuck in; the latter pushes out roots, which are nourished by the rain that collects round them, or by whatever dust or remains of organic matter may have collected into a little soil. These roots, once developed, insinuate themselves into the most minute crevices, expand, and finally break up the lava into mere fragments.” Those species that possess neither branches nor joints, such as the Echinocactus and Melocactus, are induced to yield cuttings by the following treatment: —Though no branches are formed by these plants, a bud capable of developing into one is enclosed in each of the tufts of spines which clothe the ridges of the stem, and, to compel these buds to grow, the apex of the plant is either cut or burnt so as to check growth at the upper extremity, which eauses the latent buds to push and develop into little branches, which when large enough may be removed and treated as cuttings. Early spring is the most favourable season for the performance of the above operations. All the succulent species of Euphorbia may be in- creased by means of the methods advised for Cacti ; they, too, emit roots quite freely from very large and old cuttings. The Aloes, Gasterias, Haworthias, Agaves, and Fourcroyas are increased by means of suckers, which are often produced by these plants when old. Many of the species belonging to the first three genera may be multiplied by means of leaf-cuttings, for details of which see chapter on that subject. The flower-stems of Agave and Fourcroya are often proliferous, i.¢., produce a number of young plants, which sometimes remain fixed to the flower-stem till roots are formed. It need hardly be said these plants are not the out- come of seeds, but are developed from the stem in much the same manner as in the well-known Bryophyllum. Mesembryanthemums, Echeverias, Sempervivums, Kleinias, and other popular genera of succulent plants are propagated either from cuttings or by means of leaves. The cuttings strike freely at any time of the year; the most important point to be observed during the callusing and root-forming period, is that of keeping the soil in which the cuttings are planted almost totally dry. Stapelias have the natural habit of losing their roots and the lower portion of their stems every autumn, whilst in addition to this they have a strong antipathy to moisture during the winter — months. For those which lose their roots in a natural way, and also for those that, either through cold or too much moisture, have commenced to decay at the base, the following directions will be found applicable. The whole of the decaying portion of the plants, or branches, should be carefully scraped away, and the healthy portions pegged on to a sandy PROPAGATION. 6L dry loam with their bases exposed, not buried. Ina warm house where the sun can shine upon them, these stems will emit roots from their sides; after- wards the lateral buds develop and form shoots. For the propagation of Stapelias the spring is most favourable, as at this season after roots have formed the plants make vigorous growth. Stem-cuttings (Large).—It is often found desirable to shorten the stems of specimen Tree- Ferns, Cycads, Pandanuses, Yuccas, large Aroids, &c., where they have grown too tall, and must therefore either be sacrificed or else reduced in height. For Tree-Ferns all that is necessary is to moss round the stem at the height where it is intended to be cut off, and if a good body of moss is placed there, and kept moist, roots will be formed in time, when the stem may be cut through, and the mossed portion planted in the soil. For such plants as Dicksonia, and some of the Cyatheas, the stems of which are always encased in a thick layer of active roots, the lower portion of the stem may be at once removed, and the top planted in the soil. There is no danger of losing plants thus treated if the house in which they are growing is kept a little moist and warm till the tops have become established. Tree- Ferns are often imported with only the exposed portion of their stems, which have been cut away from the rooted portion and sent on a long voyage; and even after this treatment they seldom fail to grow on being planted out and kept moist. Cycads always root freely, quite as freely as Succulents, so that the thickest stems may be cut through, and the top used as a cutting. Pandanuses being, when large, furnished with aerial or stem roots, may be lowered either at once, or by partly severing the stem, mossing up the stem above the wound, and allowing it thus to remain till roots are formed, when the lower part of the stem may be removed. Yuccas root freely either in water or in a warm moist soil, as also do the large stout-stemmed Aroids, such as Dieffenbachias, Colocasias, &e. Hardy Trees and Shrubs.—Under this head are included the numerous trees, shrubs, and under-shrubs, both evergreen and deciduous, that are hardy in this country, and for the propa- gation of which cuttings are often employed. As a general rule all hardy plants may be increased by means of cuttings, which root more or less quickly if placed under favourable conditions. For most of them these conditions are afforded in pre- pared sheltered borders out of doors, only compara- tively few of them requiring artificial warmth to aid them in the formation of roots. Although it is possible to do a great deal without the use of hand- lights or frames, yet it is always as well, at least for choice plants, to supply the cuttings with the extra protection afforded by such means. Many of the plants included here may be increased by means of cuttings at almost any time of the year, but the best results are obtained from cuttings inserted in autumn, with the exception of a few kinds that succeed best in spring. ‘Those portions of plants which are the production of a season’s growth are, generally, best fitted to be used as cuttings; and it is in the autumn, when the young shoots are healthy and mature, and filled with the food stored up in their tissues during vigorous growth, that they are in the best condition to form plants when made into cuttings. In de- ciduous plants the leaves by the autumn will have almost fulfilled their purpose, and will soon fall. Cuttings of such plants, if put in before the fall of the leaf, will have the benefit of the food contained in these leaves, which will return into the cutting, and assist in the development of roots, and also will help to sustain the cutting till it is able to support itself. From this it will be obvious how much better results are likely to be obtained from cuttings formed of leafy shoots than from those the leaves of which had fallen. HEvergreens, whose leaves remain on the plant all the winter, and do not as a rule fall off till after another crop of leaves have been formed, are even better favoured when in a cutting state, as the leaves help to support the cutting till roots are formed, and continue to assist in the formation of new growth even after the cuttings have become plants. It is not intended here to deal at length with the methods of propagation by means of cuttings which are practised for the numerous plants grown out of doors; for the majority of them the same method answers. For Roses and Conifers separate instruc- tions may be necessary, after which the method most suitable for cuttings of nearly all hardy trees and shrubs will perhaps be sufficient to enable any intelligent cultivator to apply it to whatever plants he may desire to increase by this method. It may be mentioned here that ringing (i.e., the removal of a narrow strip of bark all round that part of the shoot intended to form a cutting) is sometimes found to be an excellent plan to adopt for some plants difficult to increase in the ordinary way. “The accumulated vegetable matter in the callus, which is formed on the upper edge of the ring, when brought into contact with the soil, or any material calculated to excite vegetation, readily breaks into fibres and roots. If a ring be made in the shoot which is to furnish the cutting, a callus will be created, which, if inserted in the ground after the cutting is taken off, will freely emit roots. A ligature would perhaps operate in a similar manner, 62 CASSELL’'S POPULAR GARDENING. though not so efficiently; it should tightly encircle the shoot destined for a cutting, and the latter should be taken off and planted in earth when an accumulation of sap has apparently been pro- duced.” * Roses.—Cuttings of Roses may be rooted at almost any period of the year, and by several different methods; this part of the subject, however, has been fully treated in Vol. I., pp. 210—212. For the propagation of Roses and other plants requiring a little protection, the Pob-frame, of which a figure is here given, proves most useful, as it is easily fixed over a bed or border, and whilst affording shelter, does not prevent light from reaching the _ cuttings as mats, straw, &c., do. The term comes from the North of England, where it means spent or refuse flax, over which is placed a few inches ot light soil co- iin vered by the {fj | | Li frame. The = fi ““pob”’ retains | its gentle heat, if properly moistened, for months. Stable manure or tan will answer the same purpose. The following is a list of the varieties of Roses which do well raised from cuttings :— Abel Carriére. Abel Grand. Alfred Colomb. Annie Laxton. Annie Wood. Auguste Rigotard. Baron A. de Rothschild. Baron Gonella. Baroness Rothschild. Camille Bernardin. Captain Christy. John Hopper. Jules Margottin. La Duchesse de Mornay. La France. Le Havre. Madame Boutin. Madame C. Capelet. Madame Eugénie Verdier. Madame Marie Verdier. Madame Théreése Levet. Madame Victor Verdier. Charles Lefebvre. Maréchal Vaillant. Cheshunt Hybrid. Marguerite St. Armand. Comtesse d’Oxford. Marie Baumann. Devienne Lamy. Marie Finger. Dr. André. Marie Rady. Due de Rohan. Marquise de Castellane. Duchesse de Caylus. Mrs. Baker. Mons. Noman. Paul Neron. Pierre Notting. Prince Camille de Rohan. Princess Mary of Cam- bridge. Rev. H. D’Ombrain. Senateur Vaisse. Sir G. Wolseley. Victor Verdier. Duchesse de Valombrosa. Duke of Connaught. Duke of Edinburgh. Dupuy Jamain. Emilie Hausberg. Etienne Levette. Fisher Holmes. Francois Michelon. General Jacqueminot. Henri Ledechaux. * “ Horticultural Transactions.’’ Fig. 14.—Pob-frame. TEAS. Alba-rosa. Madame Lambard. Auna Olivier. ; Madame Willermoz. Catherine Mermet. Marie Van Houtte. Devoniensis. Souvenir d’Elise Varden. Souvenir de Paul Neron. Souvenir d’un Ami. Gloire de Dijon. Madame Camille, In addition to the foregoing, the Bcurbon, Noi- sette, and China Roses may be propagated either in pots or under frames in the autumn; these kinds thrive better when on their own roots than when grafted. Those species of Rosa which, owing to the popu- larity of single-flowered Roses, have attracted con- siderable attention of late are all capable of being propagated from cuttings inserted in autumn. For other methods practised for the propagation of Roses, see previous arti- cles, also article on Seeds and Hybridisation. Conifers.— Cuttings of al- most every one of the nume- rous species and varieties of Co- niferous trees and shrubs will strike root if put in any time betweenAugust and October, and treated as follows: For the har- dier and free-growing kinds, such as Taxus, Thuyjas, &c., hand-lights placed over prepared beds of sandy soil afford all the protection necessary for their successful rooting. A position under a hedge or wall, which, whilst affording shade from excessive sunshine, will not darken the cuttings too much, should be selected. Should the soil here be badly drained, it will be advisable to trench it, and after levelling the surface, place upon it a layer about three inches thick of fresh soil, which should consist of loam, peat, and sand, in about equal proportions. Upon this the hand-lights should be placed in rows, with sufficient space between each row to allow a man to move along them, for purposes of watering, &c. Where it is intended to propagate large quan- tities of these plants, suitable hand-lights or boxes may be made by cutting through obliquely the large cases usually obtained with Dutch bulbs. Each box thus yields two cutting-boxes, the sloping cut sides to form the top of the cutting-box, which should be glazed with strong glass, and, if possible, be made water and air-tight. Beneath these the cuttings PROPAGATION. 63 must be planted very firmly, a good watering then given to them, and, after the water has drained from the foliage of the cuttings, the boxes may be placed over them and pressed down a little into the soil. Under the most favourable conditions as re- eards light, warmth, and rain during the winter, it will be found unnecessary to remove the boxes till the cuttings are rooted and ready to be hardened off. By this means we have seen thousands of Conifers and other hardy trees and shrubs propa- gated, without the loss of more than five or ten per cent. In dry, sunny weather, it may be advisable to remove the boxes in order to water the soil. Even this may be obviated by watering the soil outside the boxes, which, being very sandy and porous, allows the water to permeate through the whole body of soil, including that in which the cuttings are placed. By the spring these cuttings will have formed roots, and therefore all the further attention they will require previous to being transplanted into pots, beds, or borders, will be a gradual hardening off, till finally the boxes may be removed altogether. For choicer and less free-rooting kinds, pots are preferable to the open border, and a brick frame or pit of shallow depth affords the most suitable place for them. Eight, ten, or twelve-inch pots may be used, these to be filled with drainage to within about three inches of the top, which space should be filled up by a light sandy soil, half peat, half loam, and pressed in firmly. The cuttings ought not to be put too thick into the pots, say for thickness the leaves just touching each other. After watering, the pots of cuttings may be placed in the frame, which should have a cinder bottom, or better still, a few inches of cocoa-nut fibre or tan in which the pots can be par- tially buried. Shade the cuttings from bright sun- light ; give air on all mild days and nights also; in fact, on mild warm nights, the lights may be removed altogether, as it is found of benefit to the cuttings to allow the dews to fall upon them. Here the cuttings may be allowed to remain, till by signs of new growth it is seen that they are rooted; or to hasten the formation of roots, a hot-bed of dung or tan, or a slightly heated bed in a propagating-house, may be used for the reception of the cuttings after they have callused, or say about six weeks after they were first put in. The extra heat causes the cuttings to strike very readily. Care must be taken not to place the cuttings in a high temperature, or they will be forced into growth before roots have been formed, the effect of which is the using up of the vitality in the cutting, which, under more favourable condi- tions, would have gone to the formation of roots. A bottom heat of 55° to 60°, with 5° less about the tops, will be found quite high enough for callused cuttings of Coniferous plants. In the case of many of these plants, the cuttings being hard and often wiry in texture, and also vary- ing somewhat in health, age, &c., they do not strike root simultaneously. It will therefore be necessary to remove the rooted cuttings from the pots, re- placing those which are without roots. We have known cuttings to remain callused and healthy for several months without forming roots, although others put into the same pots with them at the be- ginning had long since struck and been removed. Cuttings of Conifers vary in size according as the plants are strong or weak, or stout or slender grow- ing. It is therefore difficult to state the exact size to which every cutting should conform. It may be © stated, however, that the basal wood of the cuttings should not be more than twelve months old, and never less than a full season. Where possible, a heel should be obtained with each cutting. Being hard, resinous, and often of a more or less fluffy texture, the wood of these plants should be cut with a very sharp knife when intended to form cuttings. The principal cause of failure in the propagation of coni- ferous cuttings, is damp, which comes through bad ventilation, too much moisture overhead, or the cut- tings being too much crowded together. Cuttings of several kinds of Coniferze are shown at Fig. 15. The habit of growth of some coniferous trees ren- ders their side-branches of no value for purposes of propagation ; for, although cuttings of such parts seldom fail to root, they are quite incapable of forming leads, always retaining the character of a branch, and with a tendency to grow in a horizontal rather than upright direction. In such cases cut- tings must be obtained either by taking the leads of the plants, or by pinching out their points, induc- ing them to push the latent buds of the main shoot or lead, which, when large enough, may be removed and used as cuttings. ‘Those kinds whose branches have a more or less perpendicular habit of growth may be increased by means of cuttings taken from any part of the plant. It is important that the cut- tings should be put in fresh from the tree, as if allowed to stand any length of time before they are put into soil (and owing to their not showing signs of suffering from the effects of exposure by flagging as cuttings generally do, there is often danger of neglect in this particular) it is very rarely that they do any good. Where the cuttings are small, it will be well if, after having rooted, they are grown on in pots for the first year or so. 1. Conifers of which cuttings must be obtained from leading growths, lateral shoots being worth- less :— *Cedrus—Cedar. Larix—Larch. Pinus—Pine(usuallygrafted or raised from seeds). *Abies (including Picea)— Firs, Spruce, Hemlock, and Silver. *Araucaria—Chili Pines, 64 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. 2. Conifers of which cuttings may be taken from any portion of the plant, lateral or otherwise :— Arthrotaxis — Tasmanian | *Podocarpus. Cypress. *Prumnopitys—Plum-fruited Biota—Chinese Arborvite. Yew. *Cephalotaxus — Chinese! Retinospora—Japanese Cy- a) WWeEW: press. Cryptomeria—Japanese Ce- dar j * Cunninghamia. Cupressus—Cypress. *Fitzroya— Patagonian Cy- press. *Ginkgo— Maidenhair Tree. *Glyptostrobus — Chinese Water Pine. J uniperus—Juniper. *Libocedrus — Incense Ce- *Saxe-Gothexa— Prince Al- bert’s Yew. *Sciadopitys — Red- Wood. Sequoia— Umbrella Pine. Taxodium--Deciduous Cy- press. Taxus— Yew. Thuja—Arborvite. *Torreya—F cetid Yew. *Wellingtonia — Mammoth Californian dar, Tree, SSS Wy) NN Yi . \\ Se EF SS N\ Swe ME SN NOENy JF aS Sj i AR \Y AES RCSA Bt eas SS Rooted Cutting of Retinospora. Rooted Cutting of Thuja. position before the cuttings are inserted. As a guide in selecting and preparing the cuttings, it may be as well to repeat here what we have already said with regard to the length and age of the shoots most suitable for this purpose. The age of the wood should not exceed a year, the shoots should be healthy, with green leaves upon them, and long enough to admit of their being firmly planted, and to allow several buds and leaves to remain above ground. If possible, without in any way injuring the plants from which cuttings are taken, a heel should be pulled off with each cutting, or sufficient of the previous year’s wood be severed with each to form a base to the cuttings. Many common free- Cutting of Wellingtonia. Fig. 15.—Currines oF CoNIFERS. Cuttings of those marked with an asterisk require the warmth of a frame and a little bottom heat when callused. The remainder may be propagated under hand-lights or cutting-boxes out of doors, General Method for Out-door Plants.— Select a sheltered border under either a hedge or wall with a north-west aspect. Should the drainage in this border be defective this must be remedied by removing the soil to a depth of eighteen inches or so, and placing in the bottom a layer of brick rubble, clinkers, or other rough material as drainage. Over this a layer of turfy soil should be placed, the whole to be then filled in with light sandy soil. In pre- paring the soil for the reception of the cuttings see that it is moist enough to bind well, tread it down firmly, and level the surface. If frames or hand-lights are to be used, these should be placed in rooting plants may have their longest shoots cut in suitable lengths, and planted in the ground without any particular care. Those requiring more attention should be either dibbled into the prepared border about an inch apart in rows, and trodden in firmly, or, if a quantity are to be planted, the soil may be opened out in drills by means of the spade, and the cuttings pressed against the firm side of the drill, and the soil then filled in and pressed down firmly. Water may be given immediately after planting, or, should the soil be already very moist, no water need be given for a time. Generally the rain falls frequently enough to keep the cuttings sufficiently moist. Many soft-wooded, free-growing plants will root in a short time, so that in the following spring they may be removed from the cutting-border and planted in the open. Others, such as Hollies, often take twelve months. to form roots. A safe guide to ORCHIDS. 65 the proper time to transplant will be found in the growth of the cuttings soon after roots have been formed by them. The beds should be gone over frequently, and all dead leaves and rotten cuttings caretully removed. In very severe weather a little protection may be given to the exposed cuttings by placing over them branches of Yew-trees, mats, &c. ; these should be removed as soon as the weather becomes less severe. The cuttings under hand-lights and frames will be much benefited by the removal of the lights or tops of the frames on warm sunny days; in fact they may be always left off or open on all days except when the weather is frosty. For the protection of cuttings, seedlings, &c., out of doors, the reed-mat protector shown in Mic. 16 -will be found of great ser- vice. Cuttings of the Memett Rose, —— Paradise Apple, , caval AR Quince, Wild — === Cherry, and other plants used as stocks for graft- ing, are usually rooted by planting them in borders as described above. As these plants are only intended to serve as stems for the reception of buds or grafts of other plants, the lateral buds should be carefully removed from the cuttings before planting them, leaving only two or three buds on the apex of each. The removal of the lower buds is also practised in those cases where suckers are detrimental to the production of flowers or fruit; such plants are Goose- berries, Currants, and some Roses. Many trees and shrubs may be propagated from large portions of branches planted in the ground. With a few exceptions—such, for instance, as the Willow—this system can, however, be practised only in warmer climates than that of England. It is said that th the South of Europe, where the ground is much warmer than in this country, branches of Apple or Pear-trees of the thickness of a man’s wrist are cut into lengths of two or three feet, pointed, and driven into the ground, where they strike root, and soon form strong-stemmed plants. tn tropical countries this ready means is employed for the propagation of many of the trees and shrubs which, under artificial cultivation in this country, are only increased by means of small cuttings requiring close care and attention. The tropical propagating-house is now largely used for the multiplication of numerous hardy plants; especially in nurseries, where it is often desirable to obtain a large stock of particular plants 77 Fig. 16.—Reed-mat Protector. in as short a time as possible. Aucubas, Euony- muses, variegated Ivies, Hydrangeas, variegated Hollies, and even such Conifers as Cupressus, Crypto- meria, &c., are often propagated by the thousand in this way. The cuttings are prepared in the usual way, though smaller pieces may be used for this purpose’ than are advisable for cool treatment, and are planted in boxes or pans of sandy soil, which are then placed on a heated bed of about 70°, and kept moist by frequent sprinklings of water. Under this treatment roots are rapidly formed, after which the plants are gradually hardened off, till on the approach of summer they are ready for planting in the open border. It is often found a good plan, more especially for new and choice Coni- oe)» fers, to pot the yee plants. of which cuttings are re- quired, and place them in a green- = ede He. a Seg house tempera- ture, This induces them to grow quickly, and the small shoots made under these conditions root readily if placed in a warm house, whereas similar shoots taken from plants out of doors would fail to grow. ORCHIDS. By WiLtiiam HuGH Gower. Phalzenopsis.—The White Moth Orchid, from Phalaina, ‘*a moth,” and opsis, “‘like.’”? This is the choicest family perhaps in the whole order, and cer- tainly has proved the most difficult to maintain in a healthy condition for any length of time. They are all epiphytes, originally discovered in the Indian Archipelago, from which all the best species have been obtained. Phalznopsis grow naturally on rocks and trees near the sea-coast, in the Indian Archi- pelago, P. amabile being about the only species found on trees of the inland forests. The islands of the Philippine group appear to be very rich in forms of this queenly genus, and Manilla is often quoted as the native country of many of them; but Manilla is the capital city of the island of Luzon, and the port from whence all the produce of the various islands are shipped, hence it will be seen how erroneous it is to give Manilla as a native habitat. These plants have no pseudo-bulbs, and appear to make but very little stem, even with age, conse- quentiy they require strict attention in the matter 66 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. of watering, and they must never be allowed to get dry. The sphagnum moss with which they are surrounded should be kept in a growing state, as the least decaying matter that comes in contact with the roots has an injurious effect. Neither do they take kindly to shifting or re-blocking; it will, therefore, be advisable to grow them in the light earthenware hanging-baskets already described, as by this means there is no occasion to disturb their roots, which must happen if they are grown upon blocks of wood or in wooden baskets. They require full exposure to the light, but must not be subjected to the burning rays of the sun, or the result will be blistered leaves; they also enjoy plenty of air, but it must be warm and well charged with moisture. The old flower-stems should not be cut off unless they are dead, for in many instances they make numerous lateral growths, and flower freely, which, with those produced from the new spikes, add con- siderably to the display. Specimens treated in this manner sometimes bear from fifty to one hundred blooms; besides the extra number of flowers thus obtained, they will often develop young plants from these branching spikes ; in this case the spike should be bent down, and the coming plant pegged to the sphagnum, and not separated from the parent until well rooted. Although Phalenopsis are considered difficult to manage, in most instances their declining health arises from want of care, for no plants will sooner give evidence of neglect. Therefore, to keep their large and handsome leaves in a healthy condition, they must have strict and careful attention; if this is done an abundant supply of flower is sure to fol- low. East Indian House. P. amabilis.— Leaves broadly-oblong or elliptic, arranged in a distichous manner, thick and fleshy in texture, and intense deep green in colour, tinged with purple on the under side. Flower-spike droop- ing, bearing a raceme of many flowers, each measur- ing some three inches in diameter. Sepals much smaller than the petals, all pure white. Lip white, three-lobed, having a few raised plates at the base, where there are a few streaks of yellow and crimson, the tips lengthened out into two curious twisted tendrils. Spring and early summer. Isle of Luzon, in the neighbourhood of Manilla. P. grandifiora.—Leaves large, oblong, tapering towards the apex, where they are slightly mucronate, thick and fleshy in texture, colour bright green. The flower-spike is sometimes simple, at other times much branched—these branched stems are usually the previous year’s growth, which, if not cut off, frequently live and make fresh shoots, and oftentimes develop young plants. Flowers numerous, twenty to fifty, or even one hundred, according to the vigour of the plant; each upwards of four inches across, pure white, saving a stain of yellow on the front margin of the side lobe of the lip, and the twisted tendrils, into which the tips are lengthened out, are yellow, and not white, as in P. amabile. Summer months. Java. P. grandiflora, var. aurea.—The varieties of the species are numerous, but in many instances the dis- tinctions are not sufficient to warrant a name; this plant is, however, an exception to the rule, for it is very much larger, the large rounded petals making a full and almost circular flower; again, the yellow on the side lobes of the lip is deeper, and covers a larger surface, and the twisted tendrils (cirrhi) are deep orange. Summer months. A native of Borneo. P. intermedia.—Introduced about the year 1850, and sometimes called P. Lobbii. Supposed to be a natural hybrid between P. amabile and P. rosea. Axis of inflorescence deep brownish-purple, bearing flowers half-way in size between P. amabile and rosea. Se- pals pure white, concave, oblong-acute. Petals much larger, lozenge-shaped, acute, pure white, with a few minute speckles at the base. Lip three-lobed, wedge- shaped with rounded angles, violet, with a few crim- son spots and dots; the middle division ovate, deep crimson, with the point separated into two short tendrils. Crest nearly square, depressed in the middle, deep yellow with crimson dots. Philippine Islands, neighbourhood of Manilla. P. Luddemanniana.—Leaves broad, oblong-acute, thick and fleshy, arranged in a two-ranked manner, some six inches long, and bright shining green. The flower-stem very frequently develops young plants. Sepals and petals nearly equal, oblong-acute, ground- colour white, suffused with pale lilac, transversely barred with purple; in some forms these bars are reddish-brown. Lip destitute of tendrils, three- lobed,.the middle lobe deep rich violet, the lateral ones and the column white. Spring and summer months. Philippine Islands. P. LTowti.—A native of British Burmah, and, we believe, the only species from the mainland of India possessing much beauty, the others for the most part being either small and inconspicuous, or dull-flowered. It is said to grow naturally on bare exposed rocks, full in the blazing sun, and that it loses its leaves in the dry season ; under cultivation it also becomes deciduous sometimes, and our experience is that in most instances it proves then very hard to wake up again. The plant differs from the other members of the family in the thin texture of its leaves, whilst those of the majority of the species are thick and fleshy, or leathery; then again, it is quite destitute of the peculiar cirrhi to the labellum, whilst the column is lengthened out into a ‘curious rostellum, which, with its two eye-like ORCHIDS. 67 spots at the base, resemble the head and beak of a young unfledged pigeon. PP. Lowi is not only distinct, but extremely handsome, and well deserves general cultivation. Leaves distichous, oblong-acute, dark green, somewhat thin in texture, and some six itis a splendid form, and as much entitled to specific rank as several others of this genus. Leaves oblong- acute, broad, thick and fleshy in texture, upper side bright green, with a purplish tinge beneath, and about twelve inches in length. Scape sometimes branched Wee chat Rs * 4 AWN NN > i, Nob e A PHALENOPSIS INTERMEDIA. inches long. The flower-stem branching, bearing numerous flowers, some three inches across. Petals three times larger than the sepals, the former broad and rounded, white, suffused with delicate rose. Lip small, without tendrils, rich deep rose, stained with canary-yellow at the base. Summer months. Moulmein. P. Portei.—This plant ‘is supposed to be a variety of P. intermedia, which is considered a natural hybrid ; and many-flowered. Sepals and petals pure white, the latter much the largest. Lip three-lobed, side lobes erect, somewhat cuneate, with very blunt points, middle lobe ovate, lateral lobes deep rose, so also is the front lobe, the base part stained with dull orange near the edge, and spotted with dull purple at the very base. Tendrils short, not twisted, but standing forward. Spring and summer months. Philippine Islands. 63 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. P. rosea.—This is a small-flowered species, but still a very free bloomer, and very showy. The leaves oblong, notched at the ends, thick and fleshy in texture, and bright green. Scape about a foot or more long, bearing a somewhat lax raceme of ten to fifteen flowers. Sepals and petals equal, spreading, waxy-white, suffused with pink. Lip destitute of the twisted tendrils, middle lobe ovate, deep rose- colour, with a prominent downy callus. Spring and summer months. Philippine Islands. P. rosea, var. aurantiaca.—The present form is so marked, and so showy, that it is deserving of general cultivation. Leaves more ovate than oblong, thick and fleshy. Flowers larger than the normal form, measuring two inches across. Sepals and petals waxy-white, suffused with rich rose. Front part of lip intense deep rose, the basal half, side lobes, and column rich orange. Spring and summer months. Philippine Islands. P. Sanderiana.—This is supposed to be a natural hybrid between P. amabilis and P. Schilleriana, and has a somewhat striking resemblance to both. The leaves are more like the first-named species, and yet they are sometimes very slightly tesselated ; the shape of the flower is amabile, and it retains the twisted tendrils; the side lobes dotted with rosy-crimson at their base. The base of the lip has a peculiar-shaped callus, which is dull yellow, spotted with reddish- brown. Sepals and petals rosy-purple. Spring months. Philippine Islands. P. Schilleriana.—It is often said that plants with handsomely variegated leaves have small and in- significant flowers, but in the present species we have the beauties of both highly developed. Leaves ob- long and obtuse, twelve to eighteen inches long, thick and leathery in texture, dull purple beneath, intense dark green above, over which is spread a beautiful silvery-grey, in some instances disposed in regular transverse bands. Peduncle simple in young plants, but much branched in older specimens, bear- ing from twenty to one hundred and fifty flowers, upwards of three inches in diameter. Sepals and petals rosy-lilac, the latter much the largest. Lip three-lobed, deep rosy-lilac or purple, with two yellow callosities and a few spots of reddish-purple at the base; middle lobe destitute of tendrils, but ornamented with a pair of short recurved horns. Winter and spring months. Philippine Islands. P. Stuartiana.—A lovely plant of somewhat recent introduction, and in all probability a variety of the preceding species. Its leaves are slightly mottled, and it has the same recurved buffalo-like horns on the lip. Dorsal sepal and petals white, the lateral sepals stained with yellow all along the inner half, over which is a profusion of dots and spots of purplish-crimson. Lip same colour towards the base, white in front. Winter and spring months. Philip- pine Islands. P. Swnatrana.—This is also known by the name of P. zebrina. Sepals and petals oblong, upwards of an inch long, creamy-white, tinged with yellow, ir- regularly barred with transverse blotches of reddish- brown. Lip white, spotted orange towards the base on the side lobes, and streaked with violet in front, where it is densely fringed with long hairs. Spring months. Sumatra. Physurus.—A large family of small terrestrial plants, which are not conspicuous for their flowers; the species in cultivation are grown for the beauty of their leaves, which somewhat resemble those of Anectochilus, and require the same treatment, which see. Brazilian House. P, argyreus.—Leaves linear-lanceolate, and bright green, having two silvery lines running parallel with the midrib, the space between them presenting a beautiful frosted appearance. Brazil.. P. fimbriliaris.—Leaves upwards of two inches long, deep green on the upper side, beautifully reticulated with silvery veins. Forests near Rio Janeiro. P. maculatus—A somewhat tall-growing plant. Leaves lanceolate-acute, bronzy-green above, with two rows of silvery-white oblong spots on each side of the midrib, from base to apex, the under side plain pale green. Ecuador. P. nobilis.—A robust plant, with large broadly- ovate leaves, dark green, over which is spread a net-work of bright silvery veins. Brazil. . P. Ortgiesii—Leaves ovate-lanceolate, deep green, midrib white, and the whole blade freckled with white dots and spots. New Grenada. P. pictus.—Leaves oblong-acute, the centre of the leaf silvery-white, witha frosted appearance, broadly margined with dark green, over which is spread a net-work of silvery veins. In the variety reticularis the leaf is dark green, wholly covered with silvery veins. And in yet another form of this plant the centre of the leaf is silvery-white, with a plain deep green border. Brazil. Pilumna.—aA small genus of beautiful plants. The name is derived from pileos, ‘‘a cap,” in re- ference to the shape of the singular fringed hood that covers the anthers. ‘They form oblong pseudo- bulbs, which bear a solitary leaf, and should be potted in equal parts of peat and sphagnum moss. They require an abundant supply of water during the period of growth, and even in the resting season water must not be entirely withheld. The same treatment as for Odontoglossums suits them well. Peruvian House. | ORCHIDS. 69 P. fragrans.—Pseudo-bulbs oblong, compressed, bearing a single leaf, the whole being about a foot high, and dark green. Peduncle pendulous, about as long as the growth, bearing a raceme of four or five flowers, which are delicately fragrant. Sepals and petals long and narrow, more or less twisted, ereenish-white. Lip large, spreading in front, the basal part rolled over and enclos- ing the column, pure white, with a stain of orange- yellow at the base. ‘Winter months. Popayan. P. fragrans,var. nobilis. —In this variety the growth is more robust, and the flowers are much larger in all their parts and very fragrant. Lip large, pure white, bearing a large deep orange spot on the disc. Win- ter months. Peru. Pleione. — A genus of dwarf deciduous Orchids which have been separated from Celogyne, distin- guished, perhaps, more by their habit than any- thing else, and dedicated to the Greek Pleione, a water-nymph, in all probability on account of their extreme beauty. Naturally Pleiones clothe the rocks and stems of the forest trees with a rich garland of colours, and in such places the want of foliage is not felt to be a drawback, although it is sometimes urged against their cultivation ; but this can be obviated in a very easy manner by planting a small Fern or other plant in their centre before the flowers open. These plants should be potted in loam, peat, leaf-mould, and sphagnum, in about equal parts, the pots should be drained well, and the pseudo-bulbs not elevated above the rim. When making their growth, keep PROMENZEA ROLLISSONII. them in the warm house, and supply liberally with water, but do not allow any to stagnate about them. When the thin plaited leaves which have been so brilliantly green are mature, they will soon show signs of decay, and this will be the time to lower the tem- perature, and put them upon a short supply of water, but do not entirely stop it until the leaves are all off ; when this occurs keep them dry until the flowers begin to show themselves. East Indian House while growing, cool end of Bra- zilian House when at rest and flowering. P. humilis. — This plant, lke all the alpine members of the genus, sheds its leaves before flowering. Psecu- do- bulbs flask - shaped, about two inches high, and a dark purplish- green. Peduncle one - flowered, rising above the pseudo-bulbs, and some three inches across. Sepals and petals white, tinged with pale rose in some formas. Lip con- volute, spreading in front, where it is deeply fringed, white on the out- side, streaked and spotted with crimson and brown, and ornamented throughout with six fringed parallel vems. Winter months. Northern India, at 7,006 to 8,000 feet ele- vation. - P. humilis, var. Ana) N tricolor. — Pseudo-bulbs ovate, ribbed, dark green. Peduncle supporting one large flower. Sepals and petals soft rose. Lip fringed at the margin, and ornamented with fringed raised veins, white outside, pale yellow within. Winter months. Northern India. P. lagenaria.—Pseudo-bulbs bottle-shaped, with a flattened top like the lid of a puff-box, deep green, 70 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. marbled with brown, and slightly wrinkled. Flowers large, solitary. Sepals and petals equal, pale rose or lilac. Lip rolled over the column at the base, spreading in front, white outside, yellow on the disc, bearing fine parallel crested veins, broadly margined with bands of crimson and yellow, white on the edge, where it is waved. Autumn and winter. Northern India. P. maculata.—Pseudo-bulbs flattened, narrow at the base, dark green, with a few brown dots. Sepals and petals pure white. Lip rolled over the column at the base, white outside, the disc yellow; the parallel veins are seven in number and fringed; broadly flaked on the margin with vivid crimson. Autumn months. Northern India. P. precox.—Pseudo-bulbs top-shaped, with a raised centre, dark green, spotted with reddish-crimson. Flowers large, of a uniform bright rose, crested on the disc, and deeply toothed at the edges. Winter and spring months. Northern India. P. Reichenbachiana.—Pseudo-bulbs large, flask- shaped, deep green, covered with a beautiful net- “work of brown, and profusely spotted with the same colour. Peduncle usually two-flowered. Sepals and petals bright rose or rosy-lilac. Lip white or bright rose suffused with purple, dise blotched and streaked with purple, in some forms crimson, with three fringed crests along the centre. Autumn months. British Burmah. P, Schilleriana.—This plant differs from all the preceding in producing the flowers with the leaves. Pseudo-bulbs very small, flask-shaped, bearing a pair of lanceolate leaves, from between which the single-flowered peduncle arises. Sepals and petals tawny-yellow. Lip large, three-lobed, side lobes small, erect, not covering the column, white ; middle lobe large and spreading, lacerated and toothed at the edges, the disc bearing three elevated ridges, dull orange, blotched and spotted with brown. Summer months. British Burmah. P. Wallichianum.—Pseudo-bulbs top-shaped, beau- tifully spotted and netted reddish-crimson. Flowers solitary, large and fragrant, bright rose. The centre of the lip yellowish-white, striped with pure white, crested and deeply toothed on the edge. Winter and spring months. Northern India. Promenza.—This genus comprises a few small- growing plants, which have been separated from Mazillaria. ‘They are all low-growing, seldom ex- ceeding four inches in height, and should be planted in shallow hanging baskets, in rough peat. In the growing season water freely, but dry them mode- rately when at rest. Brazilian House. P. citrina.—Pseudo-bulbs oblong, clustered, bear- ing a pair of thin, pale green leaves. Peduncle radical, one-flowered. Sepals and petals spreading, of a uniform deep rich yellow. Lip yellow, spotted with crimson at the base. Autumn months. Brazil. P. Rollissonii.imA somewhat stronger - growing species than the preceding. The flowers, which are pale yellow, destitute of spots, are also larger. Autumn months. Brazil. P. Stapelioides.—Pseudo-bulbs ovate, bearing a pair of thin, pale green leaves. Peduncle bearing a solitary large flower. Sepals and petals greenish- yellow, spotted and transversely barred with deep purple. Lip small, and very dark purplish-black. Autumn months. Brazil. Renanthera.—These are very handsome epi- phytes, with large distichous leaves and long racemes of showy flowers. The name comes from ren, “a - kidney,” and refers to the reniform shape of the anthers. They are nearly allied to Vanda, from which they are distinguished by their jointed labellum, and the spur being on the middle and not at the end. Renantheras require great heat and moisture, and should be grown in pots with sphag- num moss, and kept in the warmest part of the East Indian House. R. coccinea.— A rather straggling plant, which suc- ceeds well trained upon the roof, where it can be fully exposed to the sun. The leaves are rather short, oblong, and notched at the apex. The peduncle is branched and bears a great number of flowers, which are about two inches across. Dorsal sepals and petals about equal, deep red, suffused with orange; lateral sepals larger, and deep rich scarlet. Lip small, rich crimson, white at the base. This plant is a very shy bloomer, and during the winter months should be kept quite dry unless it shows signs of exhaustion. Summer months. Cochin China. R. Lowii.—This is one of the most remarkable plants in the whole of the Orchid family. It grows to a great height, with a thick stem, on which the large strap-shaped leaves are arranged in a two- ranked manner ; these measure from one to three feet in length, smooth above, carinate beneath, and deep green. The flower-spike is pendulous, thickly clothed with short hairs, attaining a length of from three to six, and (in strong and vigorous specimens) even twelve feet, bearing as many as fifty flowers, and plants have borne as many as six of these gigantic racemes at one time in this country. A peculiarity of R. Lowii is the production of two kinds of flowers on one spike ; the two basal ones, that is the pair next the leaves, differ somewhat in shape and altogether in colour. Sepals and petals in the basal flowers thick and fleshy, spreading, broad and obtuse, with plain edges, and nearly equal in size, colour tawny-yellow, ORCHIDS. 71 profusely spotted with reddish-crimson. Sepals and petals in the other flowers much longer, lanceolate- acute, with waved edges, ground-colour in front yellowish-green, nearly covered with large blotches of reddish-brown, yellowish-white on the outside. Lip very small, with a small beakkin front. Summer and autumn months. Humid forests in Borneo. R. matutina.—This has both beautiful and singular ‘flowers, for it does not require much imagination to liken them to the harlequin in a Christmas panto- mime. Leaves somewhat distant, narrow strap- shaped, notched at the ends, deep green. Raceme simple or panicled, bearing numerous flowers of extraordinary shape, bright scarlet, spotted and barred with brown. Autumn months. Java. Restrepia.—A genus of small epiphytes, with but few characters to distinguish them from their near allies the Pleurothailis. 'They have slender stems, which bear a single leaf, from the base of which their curious flowers are produced. These plants will succeed best in earthenware hanging baskets, in peat and sphagnum, and should never be dry. Peruvian House. R. antennifera.—This is the finest species yet in- troduced; whole plant about six inches high, stems slender, bearing a single broadly-ovate, coriaceous, dark green leaf. Peduncle one-flowered, the flower being large and exceedingly curious. Dorsal sepals long and narrow, yellowish-white, streaked with dull purple; lower sepals large and broad, and joined together to within a short distance of the points, presenting the appearance of a large lip, ground- colour deep reddish-crimson, thickly studded with purplish-black dots. Petals small and narrow, clubbed at the ends like the antenne of a butterfly. Lip small, same colour as the lateral sepals. Spring and summer months. Columbia. R. elegans.—Whole plant about three inches high, leaves exactly oval, coriaceous, and deep green. Flowers small, yellow, ornamented with regular limes of purple spots. Petals antenne-like. It is almost a perpetual bloomer. Mountains of Venezuela. R. Lansbergii.—Whole plant about four inches high. Flowers golden-yellow, ornamented with ir- regular purple spots. Summer months. Guatemala and Caraccas. R. vittata.—Plant about four inches high. Leaves oblong-obtuse, dark green. Sepals and petals white, spotted with bright rose. Lip yellow, striped with rose. Summer months. Columbia. Rodriguezia.—A small genus of epiphytes, named in honour of Emmanuel Rodriguez, a Spanish physician and botanist. They are dwarf plants, and should be grown in shallow. hanging baskets, in peat and sphagnum moss. Water freely when growing, and give them a season of rest with a short drying. Brazilian House. kt. secunda.—Leaves thin, plicate. Scape six to mine inches or more long, bearing a one-sided (secund) raceme of bright red flowers, which are very pellucid. It blooms during autumn and winter, lasting long in beauty. West Indies. R. suaveolens.—This is not a showy species, but it deserves a place in every collection for its delicious perfume. Pseudo-bulbs oblong compressed, and, together with the leaves, pale green. Raceme dense, flowers of a uniform light straw-colour. Winter and spring months. Brazil. Saccolabium.—This genus of beautiful epi- phytes derives its name from saccus, ‘‘a bag,” on account of the curious pouch of the labellum. They are all natives of India and the Indian Islands. Saccolabiums take rank amongst the very finest members of the order; their stems are closely furnished with leathery strap-shaped leaves, ar- ranged in a distichous manner, from the axils of which the flower-spike proceeds; and although the individual flowers are not large, they are produced in very long and dense racemes, rendering them con- spicuous. These plants require to be kept in strong heat and moisture, and to be very carefully treated during the resting season, if they are to retain their sym- metrical appearance, for, although they undoubtedly do get a severe shrivelling in a state of nature, it does not improve their appearance from a cultivator’s point of view, for shrivelling of the foliage means their destruction in many instances, and disfigure- ment of the plant, and consequently loss of value: therefore, in resting Saccolabiums, do not dry them sufficiently to exhaust the fleshy leaves. They should be grown in living sphagnum and nodules of char- coal. The large-growing kinds require pot culture, but the smaller ones (and there are numerous very beautiful miniature species) thrive well in smail earthenware hanging baskets. East Indian House. S. ampullaceum—A small-growing species, with straight, strap-shaped, two-ranked leaves, some six inches long, and deep green. The scape erect, bear- ing a dense raceme of bright rose-coloured flowers, which last long in beauty. There are several varie- ties, the finest being Mowlmeinense, a form from British Burmah, whichis a stronger grower. Leaves spotted near the base with brown; the racemes are longer, and the flowers are larger and more intense in colour. Spring months. Sylhet and Sikkim. S. Blumei.—Leaves long, distichous, mucronate at the apex, and pale green, with several veins of darker green running through their entire length. 72 CASSELL’S POPULAR. GARDENING. Racemes long, pendulous, and very dense, having the appearance of a fox’s brush. ‘The flowers are waxy-white, dotted with violet. Lip small, rich violet. The var. majus produces very long racemes, and large flowers ; other forms are Dayi, Russellianus, splendens, &c. &c. Summer and autumn months. Java and the Philippine Islands. S. curvifolium.—Leaves thick and coriaceous, narrowly strap-shaped, some ten inches long, and pale green, Raceme erect, dense, rather shorter than the leaves. Flowers rich orange-scarlet in colour. There is a var. dutewm, in which the flowers are a plain rich yellow. Spring months. British Burmah. S. giganteum.— As its name im- plies, this is a large growing plant; leaves broadly li- gulate, thick and fleshy, erose at the apex, about twelve inches long and three broad, deep green. Racemes pendulous, as long or longer than the leaves. Flowers large (for the long, and slightly recurved. Racemes pendulous, cylindrical, dense, and longer than the leaves. Sepals and petals white, thickly spotted with rosy- purple. Lip small, rich deep crimson. Spring and summer. Java. S. Harrisonianum.—Leaves broadly strap-shaped, channelled, bifid at the apex, and pale green, with streaks of a darker green running parallel from base to point. Racemes pendulous, cylindrical, dense, one to two feet in length. Flowers pure white, and very fragrant. Winter months. Island of Pulo Copang. S. Hendersonianum.—-Leaves ligulate and slightly pointed, coriace- ous, some six inches long, and deep green. Ra- ceme erect, as long as the leaves, and densely set with bright rose- coloured flowers, except the narrow lip, which is white. Spring months. Borneo. S. miniatun.— A small species, but extremely hand- some. Leaves short and straight, lorate, obliqely genus), and sup- ported upon long foot-stalks, which give the whole raceme a very thick tail-like ap- pearance. Sepals and petals waxy-white, the latter slightly spotted with lilac: Lip violet, shading to lilac. Flowers very fragrant, lasting long in per- fection. British Burmah. S. guttatum.— Leaves lorate, channelled, thick and fleshy in texture, truncate at the apex, about a foot long, and deep green. Racemes twelve to eighteen inches long, cylindrical, and dense. Flowers waxy- white, spotted and dotted with purple. There are several varieties, the differences being chiefly the intensity of colour in the flowers. Summer months. Various parts of India and Java. S. guttatun, var. Holfordianum.—This is such a grand form of the species that it must not be omitted in this enumeration ; indeed, it may, with justice, be considered the finest of the section, which includes Blumei, guttatwn, retusum, and premorsum. Leaves broadly strap-shaped, channelled, thick and leathery in texture, erose at the apex, about eighteen inches SaccOLABIUM GUTTATUM, truncate at the apex, and deep green. Raceme equal in length to the leaves, erect, and densely set with bright vermilion-coloured flowers. Spring months. Java. S. premorsum.— This is a fine robust-growing plant of the guttatum section; its leaves are much broader than in the last-named plant, and the ends of the leaves appear to be roughly bitten off. Raceme very thick and dense,a foot or more long. Flowers waxy-white, sparingly dotted with llac. Spring and summer months. Western Ghauts of South Hindoostan. S. retusum.—A bold and free-growing species, producing long cylindrical racemes of flowers, which are waxy-white, profusely spotted with pmk. The racemes are not so long as in the other forms of this section. arly spring months. Assam. S. violaceum.—The leaves of this species are very broad and stout, strap-shaped, bi-lobed at the ends, upwards of a foot long, and deep green, traversed by several parallel lines of a still deeper hue. Raceme TREES AND longer than the leaves, cylindrical and dense. Flowers set on rather long foot-stalks. Sepals and petals pure white, profusely spotted with bluish- lilac. Lip fiddle-shaped, rich deep rosy-violet, and marked with five raised lines on the crest. Winter months. Philippine Islands. TREES AND SHRUBS. By GEORGE NICHOLSON. Arbutus.—There are about ten species of Arbu- tus, only two or three of which can be placed in a list of hardy shrubs, and even the Strawberry-tree of Kil- larney, &c. (4. Unedo), often gets killed during severe winters even in the South of England. As, how- ever, it is a rapid-growing and very ornamental ever- green, either with or without flowers and fruit, it is worth planting in other places than favoured spots along the south coast. There are several varieties, one of the best of all being A. U. rubra,with hand- some reddish flowers. This must be propagated either by layering or grafting on the type. A. Andrachne is a larger species from the Levant, with deciduous reddish bark peeling off the branches in large flakes. The white flowers are borne in large panicles. In many places this, which is larger in all its parts than A. Unedo, is hardier than that species, with which it hybridises freely, several plants more or less inter- mediate in general character between the two being in cultivation. A. procera is a North American plant nearly allied to A. Andrachne. All the Arbutus, like most of the Lricacee, thrive best in a peaty soil. Arctostaphylos.—This is a small genus of hand- some evergreen shrubs, belonging to the same order and requiring the same treatment as the last-named. In the British flora it is represented by two species, one of which, the Bearberry (4. Uva-ursi), a pretty trailer, is worth a place in the front of any peat border. A. tomentosa and A. pungens are two erect much-branched North American shrubs, with pure white flowers. Neither of them is so hardy as the Bearberry, although they have grown and flowered freely for many years in places where some so-called hardy shrubs have suffered from the severity of un- favourable winters. Arundo.—The only member of this genus of Grasses which is woody, and at the same time fairly hardy, is the South European A. Donaz, a hand- some plant for the margin of ornamental water. It grows in dense tufts, and has long narrow gracefully- curling leaves, and tall stems, a dozen feet or so in height. These latter are used for making fishing- SHRUBS. 73 rods, and also musical instruments, &c. The varie- gated form is a desirable foliage plant, but is not so hardy as the common green-leaved one, Atriplex.—Most of the members of this genus, which contains some fifty or sixty species of Chenopo- diacee, are worthless as garden plants. A. Halimus, however, is an interesting shrub, with stalked ovate- oblong entire leaves, clothed, as well as the twigs, with a grey scaly indumentum. It is a native ofthe sea-coasts ot the Mediterranean region, and along the southern coast of England, &c., it makes one of the best of sea-side shrubs, and grows freely in spots where most shrubby vegetation would not thrive at all. Aucuba.—Since the introduction of the male plant of A. Japonica by Fortune many years ago, a large number of seedling forms of this extremely popular and useful shrub have sprung into existence. So numerous are the named varieties that it is hardly worth while mentioning them in detail. There are green and variegated forms of both sexes, and all that is necessary to secure a fine crop of bright red oblong berries is to plant one or more male plants anywhere near the female ones. Of course, conveying the pollen from the male plant to the female by means of a camel’s-hair brush renders fertilisation, perhaps, more certain than if left to the agency of insects or wind; but afew male plants dotted here and there will in practice be found to secure the due fertilisation of females within a considerable radius, without arti- ficial aid of any kind. A. Himailaica differs princi- pally from its Japanese relative in the ample, dark green, long-stalked leaves, and spherical, not oblong, berries. Azalea.— In the spring months no hardy shrubs afford a more brilliant display of varied colour than the so-called Ghent Azaleas, which are in reality garden hybrids between the Oriental 4. Pontica and the North American A. calendulacea, A. nudifiora, A. viscosa, &c. These hybridise and intercross with each other freely, and now some of the varieties of more recent strains are much superior to the wild types in colour, beautiful as these are. Another great advantage, too, which they possess over the older seedlings of the nudiflora typeis the presence of well- developed leaves, produced contemporaneously with the flowers, which are much showier in their setting of green than on bare leafless twigs. Many double- flowered forms, too, of the set about which we have just spoken have been raised of late, and these last, asarule, some days longer in full beauty than the best of the single ones. All the Azaleas here men- tioned must have a peaty soil, and they by no means a4 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. object to a liberal mulching of rotten dung, decayed leaves, &c. Finer growth and a greater profusion of flowers will be produced by plants that are well looked after in the way of food. A. amena.—tIn the South and West of England this handsome little Chinese shrub thrives admirably in the open air, and produces in great profusion rich crimson, almost bell-shaped, hose-in-hose flowers. Hybrids, too, have been raised between this species and A. Indica. A. balsaminefora is a neat dwarf-growing Japanese bush, having double rosette-like salmon-red flowers. This, although cultivated generally as a pot plant, is hardy enough in the South, and probably in other parts of England. A. calendulacea.—Even in a wild state this North American species varies much. Its flowers range from yellow and red to orange and copper-colour. A. nudifiora flowers on the leafless twigs in May. There are varieties and hybrids of almost all shades of red, yellow, white, &c. Like the last-named, this hails from North America. A. Pontica, the Oriental species, has soft hairy leaves, and bright yellow or orange flowers. A. Sinensis, perhaps better known under the name of A. mollis, is a species from China and Japan, with large bell-shaped flame-coloured flowers. A host of forms of this are now grown by specialists, and all very beautiful for conservatory decoration. ‘They are hardy enough for open-air decoration, but the flowers seem more liable to be damaged by spring frosts than do those of most of the other kinds. A. viscosa has long, clammy, tubular, sweet-scented white flowers, produced a month or so later than those of the nudiflora section. The type is a very pretty shrub, and there are numerous hybrid or seed- ling forms derived from it, both double and single, which are very useful and ornamental. Azara.—Very few members of the order Bixinee are hardy enough to be cultivated in the open air in Britain. The genus Azara is an exception, and A. microphylla is one of the prettiest and most graceful of small-leaved evergreens. As a wall plant it makes an elegant subject, as also do A. integrifolia and its va- riegated form. These latter have much showier and larger flowers, too, than the first-named. A. Gilliesii has large, bright yellow, axillary inflorescences, and is, as far as flowers are concerned, the finest species in cultivation. It has large, Holly-like, leathery leaves, and is very different in aspect from either of the other species, All are now and then likely to succumb during a severe winter; but, as they are readily propagated by cuttings, and grow rapidly, a reserve plant can always be sheltered in a cold frame. All are natives of Chili. Baccharis (the Groundsel Trees).—The genus Baccharis is rather a large one, but of the ar- borescent species probably only two are in culti- vation. They do well in open spots in rather dry soil, and flourish near the sea, where many other shrubs will not succeed. JB. halimifolia, a native of the Eastern United States, makes a large bush some ten or twelve feet in height, and as much through; it has obovate or oblong wedge- shaped leaves and angled branches, the whole plant being covered with a whitish powder. ‘The female plant (the species is dicecious) is the handsomer of the two on account of its conspicuous silvery pappus ; the male has yellowish pappus, and for this reason was called B. lutescens by those who at one time believed it represented a distinct species. B. Pata- gonica is a more compact dwarf grower, a thoroughly desirable bush for a small shrubbery. Bambusa.—Of this genus there are some quarter of a hundred species well known, and probably many others which have not yet been botanically deter- mined. With the exception of a single New World species, all are natives of the tropical and sub-tropical regions of Asia. Those which are hardy enough to withstand the rigours of British winters, hail mostly from China and Japan. In the South of England they thrive admirably in sheltered spots, and make beautiful objects if planted in fairly rich ground and kept abundantly supplied with water at the roots. B. aurea has slender, much-branched stems, six to ten feet high, with linear-lanceolate acute, light green leaves. Itisa native of China. B. Fortunei is a very dwarf, densely-tufted species from Japan, and rarely attains more than two feet in height; the variegated form is much the more common. B. Japonica (the correct name of which is Arundi- naria Metake) has dark green, lanceolate, shortly- stalked leaves, and attains a height of four or six feet. B. nigra owes its name to its glossy purplish or blackish stems. It is a dwarf-growing species from China and Japan, whose proper name is now Phyllostachys nigra. B. Ragamowski, also from China and Japan, has large, dark green leaves, and forms a fine mass when planted on the margin of a piece of water; it only grows from four to six feet high. B. Simoni, another species from the same botanical region as the last-named, is a quick-growing plant, with long narrow leaves, and stems which attain a height in this country of ten feet, glaucous at the joints. The above-mentioned are the best for general cultivation; none of the enormous species which form such striking features in tropical jungles are hardy enough to grow in the open air in Britain. Benthamia fragifera is now generally included TREES AND SHRUBS. 75 under Cornus, but as it is better known under the name here given, that is retained for convenience. It is only in the South-west that this wonderfully handsome Himalayan shrub succeeds thoroughly in the open air in Britain; when laden with its large red fruits it presents an aspect quite unlike that of any other occupant of a place in English shrubberies. Berberis.—Abovut a hundred different so-called species of Berberis are described in books, but very probably not more than half that number are really distinct. They are widely distributed throughout Europe, Asia, and América. Scarcely more than a dozen are worthy of general cultivation, but amongst these are some of the most useful as well as the most beautiful of hardy ornamental shrubs. The genus may be divided into two sections, the one with pin- nate leaves—formerly classed under the generic name Mahonia—the other with simple, usually clustered leaves. SPECIES WITH PINNATE LEAVES. B. aquifolium, the best-known member of this section, is a charming plant at all times; its dark green, leathery, evergreen foliage forms a fine setting for the clustered racemes of yellow flowers, as well as for the purplish glaucous fruits which succeed them. It is one of the best shrubs for growing under tall trees, and makes a fine cover for game in woods. M. fascicularis is a taller, more shrubby species, a profuse flowerer, and a desirable plant for any shrub- ° bery border. B. Japonica has large handsome greyish green, very rigid, spiny leaves, and generally un- branched stems. B. Bealii and B. intermedia are mere seminal variations, differing slightly in the outline of the leaflets. B. nervosa is a dwarf grower, suitable for rockery or for planting on a sunny bank, and B. repens in general aspect resembles a reduced form of B. aquifolium. All the foregoing—with the exception of B. Japonica, which hails from China and Japan—are North American. SPECIES WITH SIMPLE LEAVES. B. buxifolia, formerly generally known under the name of B. dulcis, has large, solitary, long-stalked flowers; and oval, dark green, Box-like leaves; it is a native of the southern parts of South America, and grows about six or eight feet high under favour- able conditions. The variety nana is a compact and dense-growing dwarf form, hardly exceeding a foot in height. B. Darwinii, with its orange-yellow flowers, and small, glossy dark green, spiny-toothed leaves, is also a Chilian plant, and one worthy to commemorate the great naturalist whose name it bears. A hybrid between this and the next-named species (B. stenophylia) is intermediate in general characters between the two, and not less handsome than B. Darwinii. B.empetrifolia is a dwarf grower, with narrow, dark green leaves, with the margins strongly revolute, and few-flowered clusters of slender flowers not nearly so bright or showy as either of those of the two last-named plants. B. Sinensis is not unlike the common Barberry in leaf and flower characters, but infinitely more graceful in habit, and apparently quite as hardy. Hither in fruit or flower this is the best of the sub-section, of which the com- mon Barberry may be looked uponas the type. JB. vulgaris is hardly showy enough to be much planted for ornament, although when laden with its orange- scarlet fruits few shrubs present a more beautiful appearance ; some of the forms, however, are dis- tinctly desirable, one with purple leaves being among the most distinct and striking foliage shrubs; those with white, yellow, and scarlet fruits, too, are both interesting and ornamental. All the Berberises are readily raised from ‘seed, and succeed under very varied conditions as regards soil and situation. Betula (Birch).—There are about twenty-five spe- cies of Birch, most of which inhabit North Temperate and Arcticregions. No more graceful tree exists than our native B. alba, with its silvery bark and slender branches. A considerable number of garden forms are cultivated, and one or two geographical varieties, the best of which are mentioned here. The variety Dalecarlica has beautifully-cut leaves, with the habit of the common wild British Birch; fastigiata, with the leaves of B. alba, has an erect habit of growth, the counterpart of that of the Lombardy Poplar; foliis purpureis only differs in its distinctly purplish leaves ; pendula is amongst the most beautiful of all weeping trees; the sub-variety Youngii is a form with more decidedly pendulous branches, and populifolia, with larger, more Poplar-like leaves, is the North American representative of the British species. JB. lenta, B. lutea, B. nigra,and B. papyrifera are species from the North-eastern United States, quite hardy in this country, and thoroughly worth growing inan English park; not one of them, however, is nearly so effective in the landscape as B. alba, if we partially except the Red or River Birch, B. nigra, which in winter is conspicuous enough by reason of its reddish bark peeling off the branches and trunk—to which it remains for a long time loosely attached—in long strips or flakes. B. nana is a denizen of Arctic and Alpine regions throughout the Northern Hemisphere; in Britain it only occurs from Northumberland northwards. It is a pretty little bush, with small, round, crenated leaves, and rarely attains a height of three feet. Grafted asa standard on JB. alba, it makes a nice shrubbery plant; on its own roots it is best placed on the rockery. ~] (op) All the Birches are readily raised from seed, and the varieties which do not come true when propagated in this way can be grafted on B. alba. Broussonetia papyrifera is the only species of the genus Broussonetia which is worthy of mention here; itis the Paper Mulberry of China and Japan, and from an economical standpoint a very important tree, as from its inner bark is manufactured excellent paper in the countries just named, and in the South Sea Islands an exceedingly tough cloth. In the South of England, at any rate, it is perfectly hardy and should be more largely grown. In France the trees attain a considerable size, and the long brown catkins of male flowers present a novel appearance in May and June; the shorter female catkins are different in colour and are borne on different trees. Buddleia.—The only members of this large genus which can lay claim to be considered fairly hardy, and at the same time are worthy of general cultivation, are the Chilan B. globosa and the Chinese B. Lindleyana. 'The former has small bright orange flowers, arranged in globular long-stalked heads, and the latter purplish-red hairy tubular flowers, in long terminal racemes. JB. glodosa attains a height in two or three years of-eight or ten feet, and B. Lindleyana hardly grows more than half that height. Neither can be depended upon, except in favoured situations; but they are so readily propagated by cuttings, and grow so fast, that they are worthy of a sneltered place in the shrubbery, or of the protection of a wall, in any garden where ornamental shrubs are grown. Buxus (Box).—Of the score or so species of Box only a couple.are worthy of mention here; but one of them, our native B. sempervirens, is one of the most deservedly popular of all hardy evergreens; there are numerous garden varieties, exhibiting a very con- siderable range of differences in habit and leaf characters. The form usually cultivated for Box- edgings is suffruticosa ; rosmarinifolia isa dwarf bush with small Rosemary-like leaves; arborescens, a stout, tall-growing variety ; and angustifolia, bullata, glauca, marginata, argentea, obcordata, and rotundifolia have names sufficiently descriptive to render further re- marks concerning them unnecessary. 2B. Balearica, a native of the Balearic Islands, has larger yellowish- green, leathery leaves, and is a more robust grower than B. sempervirens or any of its varieties. Calluna.—C. vulgaris (the Common Ling), the only species of this genus, is so well known that de- scription is unnecessary; it covers vast tracts of moorland in this country,and isalso found throughout Europe (except Greece and Turkey), in West Siberia, CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. Greenland, and (rarely) in North-east America. Some ot the garden varieties are very desirable plants for the peat border; they vary exceedingly in the colour of the flowers and in the general habit of growth. Amongst the best are Alportii and Ser/ii, two robust-growing, free-flowering white kinds; dumosa, whichtorms very dense hemispherical cushion- like masses ; deumosa aurea is similar in habit, but has gold-tipped young growths. Besides these there are variegated forms of the ordinary type, red-flowered and double-flowered ones of various shades. Calophaca Wolgarica is the only member of this genus of the Pea family in cultivation in this country; it is a pretty dwarf deciduous shrub, with pinnate leaves, and long-stalked racemes of yellow flowers. It is a native of Southern Russia, and may be readily propagated from seeds, which ripen freely, or by grafting on the common Laburnum. Calycanthus.—Broadly speaking; there are but two species of this genus, both from North America; the one with numerous forms from the eastern side of the continent, and the other from the western. C. Floridus, the Caroline Allspice, has sweetly-scented, lurid, purplish-red flowers, and C. occidentalis larger brick-red flowers. Both are deciduous shrubs, the former growing some three or four feet, or there- abouts, in height, and the latter about double that height. Both are desirable shrubbery plants, flowering throughouta considerable portion of the summer in this country. Caragana.—Of the fifteen species of this genus of Leguminose more than half are in cultivation, and all are easily-grown hardy deciduous shrubs, or small trees, readily propagated from seeds. C. Alta- gana has large, yellow, pea-shaped flowers, produced singly from the axils of the pretty pinnate leaves. C. arborescens, the tallest of the cultivated species, has leaves with fewer leaflets than those of the last- named, and clusters of pale or bright yellow flowers; this comes in useful as a stock whereon to graft the smaller-growing sorts. C. Chamlaqu has large, yellow, red-tinted flowers and spiny branches. C. frutescens and C. spinosa are somewhat thorny bushes, the latter forming an excellent hedge-plant. All the above are natives of Northern Asia, are quite hardy in this country, growing freely in almost any soil or situation, and are readily raised from seeds. Carpinus (Hornbeam).—All the Hornbeams are hardy deciduous trees, natives of the north temperate zone. The British C. Betulus is a slow-growing, long- lived tree, and a decidedly ornamental one; as a tall hedge or shelter plant it is one of the best, as it bears TREES AND SHRUBS. ri cutting remarkably well, and forms a dense mass of twigs and foliage. A cut-leaved variety, incisa, has smaller deeply-slashed leaves, and is a very pretty object as a single specimen on a lawn, or in any spot where its distinctive peculiarities can be fully seen. The American Hornbeam, C. Americana, is well worth planting for the brilliant tints often assumed by its decaying leaves in autumn. Carya (Hickory).—There are about ten species of the genus Carya, all of them natives of North America, where they are known under the general name of Hickory. All are decidedly ornamental deciduous trees, related to the Walnut, and most of them more or less like it in habit. They are well worth growing, and some attain in a short time con- siderable dimensions. C. oliveformis is the Pecan- nut, the delicious nuts of which are frequently imported into this country for dessert. C. alba, the Shell-bark Hickory, has large handsome foliage, and forms a noble tree. (. amara (the Bitter-nut or Swamp Hickory) has bitter fruits, with the shell thinner, and less head than in other species, and with the bark of the trunk close and smooth. In its native habitats it affects a moist soil, but there are fine specimens in the neighbourhood of London, which flourish in a dry, poor, gravelly soil. | Cassandra calycalata is the only member of the genus Cassandra. It was formerly included under Andromeda, and like that plant does best in a damp peat border. Itisa hardy evergreen dwarf bush, with small, oblong, leathery, flat leaves and waxy-white flowers, produced from the axils of the upper small leaves. In a wild state this species is found in North-eastern Europe, Northern Asia, and North America. Cassiope tetragona, with three or four other Species it is not necessary to mention here, was, like Cassandra, formerly included under Andromeda, and it requires similar treatment. It is a beautiful little _ shrub, with scale-like imbricated leaves, and globular, pendulous, Lily of the Valley-like flowers, produced in May. A native of Lapland. Castanea (the Spanish Chestnut, Castanea sativa) is, when in flower in July, one of the most striking and conspicuous of the trees of the first magnitude which are hardy in the climate of Britain. The long, erect, yellowish catkins give a feathery appear- ance to a well-flowered tree, and create a distinct effect in the landscape. A large number of garden varieties are grown in some nurseries, some of the best being aspleniifolia (or dissecta), with deeply- cut Fern-like leaves; and aureo-variegata, with the leaves conspicuously blotched and margined with golden-yellow. C. pumila, the Chinquapin of the North-eastern United States, is the only other species of the genus Castanea ; it generally forms a shrub, but sometimes makes a small tree, twenty feet high, and has small, pointed, very sweet nuts, about half the size of those of the commoner Chestnut; the leaves, too, are white and downy beneath. , Catalpa.—The best of the Catalpas are the two North American species, C. bignonioides and C. speciosa. Both have heart-shaped leaves, downy . beneath, and open compound panicles of handsome flowers produced in August; in colour these are white, slightly tinged with violet, and dotted with purple or yellow in the throat. C. speciosa is said to have flowers larger than those of the commoner species, and to expand its flowers a fortnight earlier. The golden-leaved form of (. bignonioides is a very striking ornamental tree, and one which does not seem to suffer, like so many golden-leaved trees, trom bright sunlight. Ceanothus. — Many of the Ceanothus, and especially some of the freer-flowering garden varieties which have been raised during recent years, make excellent shrubbery plants. Few, if any, are thoroughly hardy; but many if cut down to the ground by frost will spring up again and flower freely the succeeding summer. In fairly sheltered sunny spots they make a brillant show, and the flowers range from white to deep bright blue, purplish, &c. For wall plants, C. papillosus, C. rigidus, and C. Veitchianus are amongst the most suitable. Cerasus (Cherry Laurels and Cherries). — For convenience of reference, the following plants, now included by the best authorities under Prunus, are retained under the most familiar generic name. One of the most important of all evergreens hardy in the climate of Great Britain is undoubtedly Cerasus Lauro-cerasus, the so-called common Laurel, which is, however, an altogether misleading name, as the true Laurel, the Laurel of ancient literature, is the Sweet Bay, Laurus nobilis. The common Cherry Laurel is a native of Eastern Europe, and was long ago introduced to cultivation in this country. Ac- cording to Sir Joseph Banks, it was “introduced by Master Cole, a merchant, living at Hampstead, some years before 1629, when Parkinson published his ‘Paradisus Terrestris,’ and at that time we had in our gardens Oranges, Myrtles of three sorts, Laurus- tinus, Phillyreay 2 -t).~ All these were at that 78 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. time rather tender plants; Master Cole cast a blanket over the top of his Laurel in frosty weather to protect it, but though nearly two centuries have since elapsed, not one of them will yet bear with certainty our winter frosts. Though some of these shrubs ripen their seeds in this climate, it never has been, I believe, the custom of gardeners to sow them ; some are propagated by suckers and cuttings, and others by imported seeds; consequently the very identical Laurel introduced by Master Cole, and some other of the plants enumerated by Parkin- son, are now actually growing in our gardens; no wonder, then, that these original shrubs have not become hardier, though probably they would have done so had they passed through several generations by being raised from British seeds.” During the sixty-five years which have elapsed since the above lines were written, so much has been done to improve the Cherry Laurel, that the original type is hardly grown now, garden varieties of stronger constitution, with larger, handsomer foliage, having almost ousted it. One of the finest of these is rotundifolia, with large, short, dark green, roundish leaves, a vigorous compact grower, in every way Superior to the type for general effect. Another excellent form is Colchica, with narrower, sharply ser- rated, lighter green leaves than C. Lawro-cerasus, but a good hardy kind which has passed unscathed through severe frosts, and has proved destructive to the original type. Caucasica is another thoroughly desirable variety, differing somewhat in colour, form of leaf, and texture from Colchica, easily enough distinguished from that, but not so easy to charac- terise on paper; it hasrich, deep green, glosty foliage, the broadest part of the leaf being above the middle. The Versailles Laurel, C. LZ. latifolia, makes a hand- some shrub; it has very large leaves. Amongst the smaller-leaved sorts the most distinct is the old Willow-leaved Laurel, a dwarf-growing narrow- leaved form which passes under a number of names; this is C. L. angustifolia, which now, as in Loudon’s time, is found in some nurseries under the absurdly wrong name of Hartogia Capensis. 'The last-named variety is useful for winter bedding, as it is the dwarfest and most compact of all. The variegated forms revert so readily into the green-leaved ones that they are hardly worth growing. The Portugal Laurel, Cerasus Lusitanica, is said to have been introduced in 1648; it is a native of Portugal and the Azores. Probably this is even more valuable as a hardy evergreen than the common Laurel; under favourable conditions it not unfrequently attains a height of thirty feet, and, particularly when in flower, is extremely beautiful. There are several varieties, of which the best is Azorica, a more vigorous, erect grower, with finer foliage than the ordinary form; variegata is more constant in its variegation than any of the varieties ot C. Lawro-cerasus, but the colours, dark green and dull yellowish-green, are not sufficiently striking to cause the plant to be used much for effect in the shrubbery. In good rich soil, particularly when trained to a single stem, the Portugal Laurel often assumes the proportions of a tree; it bears cutting in well, and can be grown into any shape. On the Continent it not unfrequently is grown with a clean straight stem in tubs, and the head pinched into globes in imitation of the Orange-trees so dear to French gardeners. The Holly-leaved Cherry Laurel, ©. ilicifolia, is not so hardy as the two other species above men- tioned ; it is, however, a charming evergreen, well worthy of a trial in the South-west of Britain and in Ireland, where it would in most places prove hardy enough to withstand the winter’s cold. The dark ereen Holly-like leaves are very pretty, and when the plant is laden with its short erect racemes of white flowers it is especially attractive. This forms a dwarf compact bush some six feet or so in height ; itis a native of California, and is a comparatively recent introduction to British gardens. The Gean, or Wild Cherry, C. avium, is one of the handsomest of woodland trees in April and May. The double-flowered variety lasts longer in bloom than the single-flowered type, and is a very useful, orna- mental tree. C. Caproniana may be looked upon as the wild parent of the Morello Cherries; it is a much smaller-growing species than the first-named one, and its double form has purer white flowers. C. Chamecerasus has clustered flowers, followed by small round, reddish-purple, very acid fruits ; it is a dwarf erower—on its own roots it rarely attains more than four feet in height—so is generally grafted on the Wild Cherry stock. Like the two preceding species, © this is European. C. depressa is a North American, prostrate, deciduous shrub, a profuse flowerer, suitable for planting in the front rank of the shrubbery. C. Padus, the Bird Cherry, a native deciduous tree, has long drooping racemes, and does well either in the shrubbery or near water, in the park or pleasure- ground; of this there are forms with cut leaves, and others with variegated foliage. ©. serrulata, the double Chinese Cherry, is one of the most floriferous of all the species; it produces its large pink-tinted flowers in April. (C. serotina and C. virginiana are North American representatives of our British Bird Cherry, C. Padus. Cercis.—C. Stliquastrum, commonly known as the Judas Tree, has handsome, smooth, kidney-shaped leaves and rosy-purple flowers, produced in great profusion before the leaves are fully developed. It TREES AND SHRUBS. 79 is a native of Western Asia. OC. Canadensis, a North American species, is similar in habit, but has fewer paler-coloured flowers; and C. Chinensis has larger rosy-pink flowers. All three are beautiful shrub- bery plants, and the first-named, under favourable conditions, sometimes attains a height of twenty or thirty feet. Cistus.—The Rock Roses, or Gum Cistuses, are amongst the most showy of flowering shrubs, and although their flowers only last a single day, a succession is produced in profusion for a considerable period. It is only in the South of England that most of the Cistuses can be called hardy. (C. lauri- folius, the hardiest in the entire genus, has evergreen three-nerved leaves and white flowers, with a yellow blotch at the base of each petal. ‘This species, too, erows taller than most of the rest; it attains a height of six or eight feet. OC. crispus has purple flowers; C. hirsutus is white, with a golden blotch; CO. Monspeliensis, white; and C. purpureus, reddish- purple. C0. dadaniferus has very large flowers, white, with a claret-coloured blotch at the base of each petal. . The Clematis.—Of all the genera of climbers suitable for general cultivation as ornamental plants in the British Isles, one of the most useful and popular, as well as perhaps the most beautiful, is the genus Clematis, the Traveller’s Joy, or the Virgin’s Bower. Clematises are found in all temperate climates, and are rarer in tropical regions. Of the hundred species known to science, the greater part are woody climbers, and a goodly proportion of these are handsome garden plants. The following is a selection of the best of the hardy kinds :— C. ethusifolia, from Northern Asia, is by no means remarkable, either for the colour or size of its flowers, but the profusion in which they are produced, and the beautifully-cut light green leaves, render it a very taking plant. It probably hardly grows much more than about six feet in height, so it is best to plant it in the shrubbery border, and allow it to grow naturally on some rustic support; the upper portion of a Fir-tree properly fixed makes an excel- lent one. The flowers are between bell-shaped and cylindrical in form, about an inch long, and nearly white in colour. C. aromatica.—The native country of this is unknown. It is probably of hybrid origin. The flowers are deep violet-blue, and sweetly scented. This hardly grows higher than six feet, and is of much more formal habit than the last-named. C. Balearica is a South European evergreen species which flowers in the winter and spring. In sunny spots in the South and South-west of England (else- where in this country, although it grows freely, the wood is rarely ripened sufficiently to flower), this is one of the most distinct and beautiful of winter- flowering shrubs. ‘The leaves are dark green, ternate, and the flowers, which measure about two inches across, are greenish-white, copiously marked on the inside with reddish dots. C. cerulea, a beautiful large-flowered species, intro- duced from Japan some fifty years ago, is still one of the best. It is the parent of many garden forms, single and double, none of which surpass in beauty the type with its large pale violet fiowers. C. cirrhosa, a South European species, is not un- like (. Balearica in general aspect. It has, however, somewhat smaller unspotted greenish-white flowers. Like Balearica, too, it flowers in winter and early spring. ©. Flammula, the South European representative of our native C. Vitalba, has dense panicles of small white fragrant flowers, which are, moreover, sweetly scented. It is one of the oldest of the exotic Clema- tises in English gardens, and grows and blossoms freely in most places. It is suitable for planting in semi-wild spots, and may be trusted to take care of itself amongst low-growing trees and shrubs. C. florida, a native of Japan, has been upwards of a century an inmate of British gardens, and is the parent of not a few handsome garden forms and hybrids. It has large pale white flowers (borne on the wood of the previous year), during the summer months. A double form is more frequently met with than the type. C. lanuginosa, introduced from China in 1851, has contributed a large number of hybrids and seedling forms. It has very large pale lilac-tinted flowers. Many of the finest of the ‘‘show’’ Clematises, now grown either for outdoor or conservatory decoration, have been derived from this species. Its flowering season is a prolonged one, and the blossoms are developed on the young growing summer wood. C. montana is an Indian species, with pure white flowers, produced in spring from the previous season’s wood. It is acharming plant for a high wall. C. Viorna, the Leather-flower of the United States, has a somewhat bell-shaped flower, with very thick and leathery purplish sepals. C. V. coccinea, a variety from Texas, that has oniy recently been brought into public notice, has very fleshy sepals, vermilion outside and yellow within. If this should prove quite hardy—the writer has seen it growing against a wall in the open air without any protection for some years—it will be one of the most distinct and beautiful of outdoor shrubby plants. C. virginiana, the common Virgin’s Bower of the United States, is a vigorous climber, with panicled clusters of small whitish flowers. Like our British 80 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. species, this is very conspicuous in autumn, by reason of the long feathery tails of the fruit. C. Vitalba has, perhaps, a wider distribution than any one of the species already mentioned. Besides Britain it occurs throughout Europe (from Holland southwards), in North Africa, and West Asia. The greenish-white almond-scented flowers in late sum- mer, and the long feathery tails of the fruits in autumn, render large plants of this very conspicuous. C. Viticella is not so rampant a grower as the last- named; but no Clematis is more beautiful and graceful than this when allowed to grow in a natural manner amongst low-growing trees, or on rustic supports. The long-stalked drooping flowers are rather large, and vary from blue and purple to rose. It produces a succession of blossoms from June to September, and flowers on the young grow- ing wood. A native of South Europe and Western Asia. Many hybrids and seedling forms, some very beautiful, have been derived from this species. Hybrids.—One of the earliest, and still one of the very best, of the popular large-flowered hybrids is (. Jackmannii, with its large deep violet-purple flowers, produced during nearly the whole of the summer. — \\ Z ~~ WEN highly recommended. For cutting purposes in mid- winter, the varieties of H. niger are invaluable, and HELLEBORUS NIGER. the Black Hellebore, because of the colour of its and its flowers open like a Rose, and is also called leaves. plant a bed with them, and then to place over it a frame in November or December, or as soon as they begin to show for flower; this tends to keep the should be grown by every one. The Hellebore has long been considered a plant of evil omen, growing in dark and lonely but its blossoms are particularly bright, places ; cheerful, and acceptable at the dead season of the 90 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. flowers clean, and improve their quality. Of H. niger there is the common variety in which the flowers come tinted with rose: niger angustifolius, known also as St. Brigid’s Lily, the flowers of snowy whiteness, and produced with great freedom; and maximus or altifolius, the Giant-flowered Christmas Rose, the flowers larger than the type, white, and very free. The following are a few of the most distinct of the genus :—atro-rubens, bright rosy-purple; colchicus, the latest to flower, the blossoms appearing in April and May, the flowers of a deep rich plum-colour, more or less spotted ; orientalis, in variety, of which there are several fine forms; one of them, odorus purpurascens, purple heavily veined with dark lines, being one oz the earliest to flower, and very free. Some amateurs find difficulty in cultivating the Christmas Roses. We find that they do well in a good yellow loam, on a border facing the east. They need a generous soil, in which they can root freely and deeply, and they should be occasionally mulched with manure. For growing in pots we find niger angustifolius to be the best. Our practice is to lift the plants in October, as soon as the flower-buds be- gin to show themselves, placing them in pots just large enough to take the balls of earth, and ram- ming some soil well above them, and then placing them in an ordinary green-house, where they flower freely at Christmas time. But the plants flowered one year should be placed in the open ground again as soon as they have done blooming, and be allowed to rest one winter. Thus it is well to have two groups of plants, one flowering in pots, the other remaining in the border and blooming in the open air. Hemeroeallis (Day Lily).—This isa bold and handsome genus of hardy perennials, termed the Day Lily because the flowers, which are numerously produced, last so short a time. ‘The plants form large tufts of long, broad, sword-like leaves, and produce clusters of Lily-like flowers; exceedingly useful for cutting, while the variegated forms make fine subjects for exhibition purposes. They should be planted in a shady border in good soil, and then left alone, and they will be found to do well, and the clumps should be allowed to remain undisturbed for years. The following comprise the best of the family :— H. fulva florepleno, flowers bronzy - yellow, very large and double; this is one of the best.- H. fla, flowers golden-yellow; very fragrant. H. Japonica, flowers soft yellow and bronzy-orange. H. Kwanso florépleno, another form of U4. fulva, with large double flowers of a rich bronzy colour; and this same variety, with handsomely variegated foliage. They well deserve a place in the garden on the margins of shrubberies, where they can enjoy the shade of trees during the hottest part of the day. Hesperis (Sweet Rocket, or Dames’ Violet).—Hes- peris 1s from hesperos, ‘‘the evening star,’”’ Rockets being sweeter towards the evening. The name Rocket is given to several different plants, the most noted of which is “the London Rocket (Sisymbrium Ivio); which is said to have first appeared in the metropolis in the spring succeeding the Great Fire of London, when young Rockets were seen everywhere springing up among the ruins, where they increased so mar- vellously that in the summer the enormous crop crowding over the surface of London created the ereatest astonishment and wonder.” But the name Rocket appears to be of very ancient derivation, and it is not made clear why it was originally applied. Our garden Rocket is Hesperis matronalis, or the — Matronly Hesperis, which has been in cultivation in this country for many years. Seeds of the single purple, and the single white, are sold at the seed- shops, and they make charming: hardy perennials, flowering early, and being very fragrant. The double varieties are among the choicest of our hardy perennials; they are the double purple, the double French-white, the flowers of which are creamy; and the old English double white, the flowers pure white, the spike of bloom dense and compact, but it is somewhat scarce. The double varieties bloom from May until August. They are a little difficult to manage, especially in old gardens and confined situations; they do best in fresh soil—a good sandy loam—and an open situation. And the plants should not remain too long in one place; if they do, they not unfrequently dwindle away. It is recommended that the plants be taken up and divided every second year soon after they have done flowering, say early — in autumn, and be re-planted in fresh soil. Though the single varieties seed freely, the double kinds do not, and it is only by division that they can be increased. : The garden Rocket boasts of many old-fashioned names besides those mentioned: viz., Damask Violet, Queen’s Gilliflower, Winter Gilliflower, &c. Heuchcocra.—This genus is named after Professor Heucher,.a German lLotanist, and represents a group of hardy herbaceous perennials. They are grown more for their leaves, which are very ornamental, and they generally succeed well in good garden soil. H. glabra is a North American plant, with pretty leaves, that are very useful for cutting from for floral decorations; the flowers are white, and not THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 91 very ornamental. H. ribifolia is the Currant-leaved Heuchera; the peculiar dark tone of its leaves makes it a very useful bedding and edging plant. Both these grow freely in almost any soil, and can be propagated by root-division. H. lucida has leaves the size and shape of those of a Zonal Pelargonium, velvet and olive, and is also a very useful plant to cut from. It grows freely in good garden soil. 4H. Menziesi is a graceful little North American plant, with pretty flowers, but does best in a shady bog bed. The most beautiful of all is the recently intro- duced H. sanguinea, a native of Northern Mexico, with graceful panicles of deep red bell-shaped flowers. Hypericum (St. John’s Wort).—This genus includes hardy biennials, hardy deciduous and ever- ereen shrubs, and a large group of hardy herbaceous perennials. We have to deal with a few of the latter. The common St. John’s Wort is a well- known plant. It is H. perforatwm, and it has leaves marked with red, blood-like spots, which, tradition avers, always appear.on the 29th of August, the day on which St. John was beheaded; but the plant derived its name from its being, according to ancient custom, gathered with great ceremony on the eve of St. John’s Day, the 24th of June, to be hung up in windows as a preservative against evil spirits, phantoms, spectres, storms, and thunder. It is a plant that will grow well under the shade of trees, and is often used for covering the base of shrubberies and plantations. H. Jlalearicum has leaves spotted with white, and yellow flowers. 4H. calycinum is the Great St. John’s Wort, and sometimes called the Rose of Sharon; it is a very showy, low-trailing shrub, and though a native of Southern Europe, has become quite naturalised in Britain. It grows freely in any ordinary garden soil. H. Coris grows in evergreen tufts, and produces bright yellow flowers in loose panicles. H. nummularium is a dwarf creeping species, also with yellow flowers, and makes an excellent rock plant. H. olympicum is very pretty, bearing numerous bright yellow flowers, which are produced in rapid succession for about two months ; it is perfectly hardy, anda very showy and attractive plant. H. patulum has slightly drooping branches, terminating in clusters of large, bright, golden-yellow blossoms. H. triflorum is perhaps the best of the family, forming bushes two to three feet high, composed of long, slender shoots, terminating with large, bright, golden-yellow flowers, whose weight causes the stems to gracefully droop towards the ground. It is a native of Java, but its thorough hardihood needs to be put to the test. ZH. patulum is also known under the name of H. uralum. All the Hypericums are easily propagated by division of the roots, and are most useful for clothing vacant spaces. THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. By D. T. FIsH. ASSISTED BY WILLIAM CARMICHAEL, THE PEAR.—PRUNING AND TRAINING. HE general principles and practice of these are much the same for Pears as for Apples, which have been rather fully treated at pages 320 to 326, Vol. I1., and pages 14 to 22, Vol. III. Some of these principles may have to be slightly modified or altered when applied to Pears. For example, all that has been written of the importance of the root-pruning of Apples becomes still more imperative as apphed to Pears on their own roots. But it must be borne in mind that no amount of root-pruning will make Pear-roots as fibrous as those of Apples. In the case of double or multiple grafted trees little or no root-pruning is needed. ‘The foreign cylinders, of differing diameters and varying degrees of porosity or sap-conveying powers, introduced between the roots and tops of the tree, check and reduce the supplies of fluid and food, and starve the tree into fertility. This was the theory of all the old systems of ringing, by ligatures, excision of sections of bark, burning with hot irons, &c. The practices seemed barbarous, but being nevertheless philosophical, they resulted in fertility ; though it was often purchased at the price of the health, or even of the life, of the Pear or other fruit-tree operated upon. Again, in the case of orchard trees or groups in woods, or pleasure-grounds, or lines by the sides of roads or walks, that are intended to grow into full size and last for years in a fruitful condition, the less pruning they are subjected to, either at root ‘or top, the better for their picturesque beauty, anda permanent health and fertility. If such trees could be grown, worked, or planted as maidens, where they were to stand permanently, it would be all the better for them. Sterile soils and subsoils, sharp stones, virtually impenetrable strata, not unfre- quently prune or starve the plants into fertility far more effectually than the impatient methods of the cultivator. The exigencies of space, the modern idea of concentrating a maximum number of Pears into the smallest possible area, and gathering them in the least possible time from the bud or graft, render much pruning and laborious training needful. But with more time, wider areas, larger trees, nature can do her work well without our aid, and in spite of our hindrances. Top-pruning, and Training.—See ApPLzs, Vol. II., p. 320; Vol. III., pp. 14 and 22. The idea of pruning the tops of Pears into fruitfulness is still more hopeless than with Apples. It was tried 92 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. for centuries and failed. The more they were cut back the faster and stronger they grew, and it was this severe pruning that gave rise to the now meaningless old saw, “He that plants Pears, plants for his heirs.” Summer Pinching.—The chief novelty about this is its repetition twice or oftener a year (see Appuss, Vol. II., pp. 323, 324). This is all very well under glass, in orchard-houses, or on very warm walls, but is hardly safe in the open air, any- where in England, unless in the warmest and driest districts. It not unfrequently happens that the often- stopped shoot proceeds to break all its reserved force of buds, and looks more like a bunch of greens at the end of the year than a promising Pear-shoot. So alive were the old fruitists to the evils of the premature breaking of these reserves, or succession buds, that they ofttimes hesitated to stop back the current shoots, or cut off the breast - wood. By tying down, or breaking almost wholly through the breast-wood of Pears, about the middle of June, or early in July, the trees presented the appearance in Fig. 38, and the buds were kept from breaking out of season. The practice of pinching, however, concentrates force as well as hastens and heightens fertility. See Fig. 37 as an illustration of a persistently it is apt to climb too fast and too far, the result being that the trees are prone to become slim at base, top-heavy above. This radical evil may be readily prevented by careful stopping of the leaders and side shoots. Pinching or Stopping the Centre of Pyramids.—In the majority of illustrations of pyramidal trees the leader or centre stem looks as if it had never been stopped. This is, however, very far from being the case. On the contrary, the secret of success in the moulding of such trees into symmetry and perfection lies in one, two, or more stoppings a year. By thus losing to win, the pro- gress of the tree is greatly hastened and accelerated.. A yard in height may now be made good all round instead of the old orthodox foot. The earlier the stopping takes place, the more may be done within the year. Suppose the shoots are stopped early in June, the second shoots will be sure to have become sufficiently ripe before the end of the season. Those, again, who apply three or five- leaf measure to the leading as well as the side shoots of their Pears, may make far more substantial progress in furnishing their trees with side shoots, and in many sites and localities the progress is very rapid. Overcrowding of the branches is one of the greatest evils in modern Pear-culture. The trees being placed pinched Pear-tree in a pot. In this case, however, there were other fruit- producing influences at work, notably the smallness of the pot to the size of the plant, the violent compression of jhe roots, and the necessary scarcity of food. Add to these physical causes, the superior climate afforded by the sunny side of a glass-house until the end of May, and the semi-roasting site of the southern side of a south wall throughout the summer and autumn. Under these conditions, and with the strain of a heavy crop in addition, but little wood was made; and when that little was pinched at every third leaf, the buds plumped up into fertility, and added to their size and hardness throughout the season. Thisexample may be looked upon as fertility carried to its utmost possible limits. But pruning and training are equally or more necessary for moulding Pear-trees into form than for intensifying their fertility. The Pear naturally affects the conical or pyramidal form. But without considerable summer pinching or winter pruning Fig. 37.—Excessive Fertility of Pot-tree caused by con- stant Pinching. so much more. closely together, five- and-twenty or more trees now oc- cupying the area devoted to five only a few years since, there is the less excuse for overcrowding the branches. To prevent this, it is well to start with a system, and rigidly adhere to it. It is found in practice that five side branches to each central break or stoppage of the leader favours the formation of a good pyramid. In fountain-formed pyramids, tiers of branches are brought out from the centre stems at regular intervals, as squirts of water proceed from the upright shaft of a fountain. The branches may either be led out at almost right angles from the stem, or droop back towards the ground in somewhat the same way as the spray of water returns to the basin. Weeping pyramids differ from the fountain in being less regular, more picturesque, and yet equally fruitful and beautiful. Considerable trouble is needful at first to tie, peg, or weight the branches into a drooping direction. But once this is done THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 93 there is no means equal to keeping them in form like an annual crop. Some Pears, such as Marie Louise, Winter Nelis, and others, lend themselves much more readily to this mode of training than others. There are no sights within the whole range of pomology more satisfyig than a row of such shaped trees in full bearing. Two common laws of proportion which may be accepted as canons of beauty among pyramidal Pears, are that the height shall equal the circumfer- ence of the base, and that a section of the side should taper regularly from the base to a point attop. But after all, perfection of form in Pears is of far less mo- ment than perpetuity of fertility, and the best means of maintaining the latter must now be briefly ad- verted to. How to Keep the Side-shoots of Pyra- mids in Full Bearing. —What is here added to our pruning and training of Apples will, it is hoped, prove sufficient to produce and maintain perfect pyra- midal and other shaped Pear - trees in perpetual fertility. But living trees in general, and Pears in particular, in the garden, differ widely from Pear- trees on paper, in this, that they are always striv- ing to get out of shape; to avoid fertility, or sink under the restrictions and burdens we impose on them. For example, we wish the diameter of the base to exceed that of any other part of the pyramid, and its vigour to increase rather than diminish. ‘The vital force and natural habit of the tree will it other- wise, and hence various means are used to sustain the strength of the bases of Pear-trees, and suppress the vigour of their tops. Among these the simplest is to elevate the base branches, relieve the bottom of the tree of a considerable proportion of its fruit, and suppress the top by vigorous summer pinching, tying down the branches, and heavy loads of fruit. All overcrowding must also be prevented among the side branches, the most vigorous and highest-placed shoots be summer-pinched, twice or oftener, when weaker ones need not be pinched at all, and all small and useless buds be rubbed off or pinched back Fig. 38.—Inducement of Fertility by Bending and Breaking down Branches. to a single eye, with the hope that such eye may finally develop into a fruit-bud or cluster of buds. Everything, anything, in the form of growth, whether of leaf, shoot, or fruit, not likely to be of use, should be removed so soon as practicable, so as to reheve the tree of all useless encumbrances, and expose the material left to the full influence of light and air. The earlier in reason all this removal of weakly or useless material takes place the better. It should begin by disbudding, a process persistently prosecuted among stone fruits, and often wholly neglected among Pears. On the heels of disbudding should follow summer pinching. This may be more freely practised on the side or lateral than the leading shoots of Pears. Strong shoots, especially on the higher portions of pyra- mids, should be pinched at. the third, fourth, or sixth leaf, while other or weaker shoots, lower down, need. not be pinched at all. A general stopping of all the side shoots should take place not later than July. Best Time and Mode of Winter Pruning.— Opinion and practice vary widely in regard to this. October, or just before the fall of the leaf, seems the best time to prune Pears, for several reasons. The first 1s, we can then see far better what to prune, and how many branches to cut out. No sooner do the leaves fall than the trees seem so much thinner of wood than they are. Another reason is that wounds heal quickly when made before the fall of the leaf. Modern culture, while it has multiplied the number of wounds made, has lessened their size so much as to make this a matter of less moment than when whole branches were often butchered off under the name of pruning. Still, it is important that the wounds made by pruning should heal as soon as possible, as the frost is apt to split raw or fresh wounds, and wet thus gets into the pith, to the production of canker or other diseases. But with proper summer pruning, pinching, disbudding, but little autumnal or winter pruning is needful. An advance of afoot in height and from four to six inches in breadth a year, is a fair and satisfactory development for established Pear-trees in full bear- 94 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. ing. Such fructiferous varieties as Louis Bonne of Jersey will frequently not advance more than two inches a year either in height or breadth. In cutting back the leading shoots of Pears, either in the autumn or winter, they should be cut to a bud, as near as may be in a line with the main stem. When this is attended to, established Pears show few or no signs of the frequent beheadings to which they have been subjected, and may be as perfect in form and have as clean straight stems in the garden as on paper. Neither must cutting back to a bud be interpreted too literally. It is safer to make these cuts a quarter of an inch, or even a half-inch, above the bud, and when the latter is strongly started, towards the end of the succeeding April, cut this bit of protruding wood off at a sharp angle at the base of the growing shoot. The wound will then heal quickly, and the leader be kept clean as well as straight. Bush Pear-trees.—There is but little to say about these, only that, as a rule, they are mostly less regular and a little more rugged than our bush Apples (p. 18, Vol. III.). But unless for Pears under glass, or made portable by pot culture, the bush culture of the Pear needs specially favourable sites and localities for its successful prosecution. When bush Pears are attempted, those on the Quince, or double-grafted, or rooted cuttings, the cuttings taken from trees already in full bearing, are likely to be the more successful. (See Pears, in THE ORCHARD-HOUSE. ) Best-formed Pear-trees for Walls and Esspaliers.—As a rule, horizontal-shaped trees of various sizes and forms are those most generally used, with or without a straight or twisted centre stem, with an open centre, or two furnishing rods. A great point in this mode of training is the direc- tion of the lower branches at first, so as to give them a strong start somewhat in advance of the others. Once this is secured it is mostly kept, and one way of securing it consists in raising the shoot somewhat above the horizontal lines during its first season’s growth. The fan system of training is more difficult and also more mobile than the horizontal. Admirable as the latter is, it is obvious that should a limb or large branch succumb, the symmetry and beauty of the tree is marred for years, if not ruined for life. Culturally the merits of the two chief modes of training Pears may be pronounced of equal merit. Most Pear- growers, however, prefer the horizontal for walls and espaliers. But, structurally, the fan system is the best. The branches all radiate from the root- stock, or stem of the tree, near its base, and spread out like the limbs of a fan towards the sides and the top of the wall, and hence'the name. And it is obvious, were one of these to fail,a very slight shift- ing of the remaining ones would suffice to fill up the blank, and thus re-mould the tree into perfect form. To furnish fan-shaped trees with fruit-spurs, the leaders must be stopped, or pinched back during the process of growth, so as to furnish sufficient breaks on the sides to be developed into fruit-buds. Andas the tendency in fan-shaped trees is to throw most of the strength into the centre, it is well during all the preliminary stages to keep the centre of the fan open. This will enable the sides to be well developed before the centre is filled. There is never any danger of not finding material in plenty to furnish the latter when desired. General Treatment of Breast-wood on Horizontal and Fan-shaped Trees. — This does not greatly vary from that so carefully de- scribed for pyramidal trees of various forms and sizes. Oniy trees on walls and espaliers having fewer branches, being in fact more of skeletons than trees, need more frequent stopping and vigorous sup- pression. The centre of fan-shaped trees may also need more stopping than the sides. Again, espaliers being smaller, seldom more than six feet high, will probably require more frequent pinching and stop- ping than wall trees, which are mostly allowed to run further and climb higher. Much will, however, depend on the stock and the treatment, and more especially on root-pruning. The main branches on espalier trees should never be closer than six inches ; nine inches is preferable, and some adhere to a foot on espaliers as on walls. It is obvious, however, that Pears may be closer on espaliers than on walls, and for the self-same reason, to keep them warmer. ‘The bare interstices on brick walls are warming-pans for the Pears. The open spaces in espalier rails are cooling ventilators for the reduction of temperature. Hence the wisdom of placing the branches of Pear-trees on espaliers so closely that when fully furnished the whole should form almost a living wall of verdure, in which the branches, leaves, and fruit-spurs should well-nigh touch each other. As light and air have free access to the trees on each side, and the trees themselves are but single-branch thick, it is obvious that the whole tree may be converted into a verdant or fruitful screen with comparative impunity. The closer the branches, however, the more severely the fruit-spurs must be reduced, alike im size and numbers. A safe and most profitable mean distance between fruit-spurs, or nests of spurs, is that of six inches. In such exaggerated cases of fertility as that illustrated in Fig. 39, the joint products of THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 95 persistent pinching, pot culture, and growth under glass, unless the spur is severely cut back as shown by the lines, such enormous fertility is likely to deteriorate the fruit into comparative worthlessness, as well as to destroy the vigour and end the life of the tree. But such illustrations of fertility are given as warnings rather than examples. Fig. 40 is a more normal example of the fertility forced by judicious pinching and stopping of the ordinary lateral shoots or bearing wood of the Pear, whether trained in horizontal, fan, or other fashions. This shoot was stopped at the third leaf, as it broke into excessive vigour (see 1). it was then permitted to make five leaves. Sh - Dl 7 When stopped at 2, Se its strength was not Rene CR AS only greatly re- ACO a a duced by the second cahfen RS Wye stoppage, but like- Wo SUZ a : oR, wise by the diver- SS Uae z a - e~ (SANS sion of the sap into r= wei two shoots of almost : aS 4 QS eS GG, Ne equal strength. SEE. Din Now supposing this a Sa Naw ei shoot needed for Sy hit sem Swi furnishing a va- WNP WZ Sy at cant space, it may DAE Cm: CS - MN I 4, Se oN be laid in full f iS ee eS, length, and has five ' buds on it. But if only needed as a fruit-spur for per- manent fertility, it may be cut off at the dotted linc at the winter prun- ing. After a time the one or two spurs thus left will become the nucleus and develop into a nest of spurs as already illustrated in Fig. 39. At times, however, these various pinchings result in the production -of wood only. In such cases the entire series of growth may be cut back at the winter pruning to a point near the base of the shoot, some- where below No. 1. This wholesale and severe cut- ting back is technically called keeping the wood and fruit buds at home: a point of more moment on walls than on espaliers, as when fruit-spurs get away beyond six inches of the wall surface they have already lost much of the fostering warmth of the wall. Hence the general practice of cutting back the breast-wood, that is, the annual lateral growth of Pears, to within an inch or so of the main branches in the autumn, unless the formation of fruit-spurs renders such close pruning imprudent or impossible. For after all it is impracticable to prune by rule only Fig. 39.—Exuberant Group of Fruit-spurs. and wholly, and it must never for a moment be lost sight of that the great and most vital object and de- sign of all training and pruning is to prune for fruit. This has led to the adoption, of what may be correctly described as the free-and-easy method of training Pears over espalier rails. The result of this is very similar to what would occur were a weep- ing pyramid divided into two halves, and each backed from the cloven centre against an espalier or wall. The line of Pear-trees would then form a series of vandykes all along the front of the wall, the centres bulging out a yard or so, the sides retreating up to the wall where the trees meet each other. Supposing the centre is re- duced a half or so and the meeting- places expanded, the whole wall sur- face would be fur- nished with Pear branches, leaves, and fruit, toa depth of fifteen, eighteen, or more inches. In furnishing espa- hers in this way the preliminary steps may be. iden- tical with those already recom- mended. Lay the foundation of the trees, that is, their leaders or ribs, just the same, and then droop or distribute through these the fruit-bearing spur-clusters or twig- lets as thought best. This mode of training is more difficult than the more formal methods. But once trees are thoroughly provided with bearing wood, and especially so soon as they get into full bearing, but little pruning beyond what may be needed to prevent overcrowding, and for the removal of weakly or useless shoots and spurs, will be required. The pruning and training of cordon Pears does not differ much from that of Apples. (See illustrations and description of the latter, Vol. III., pp. 15, 16.) There are, however, several other forms more gene- rally used for Pears than the single and double diamonds and special cordons already described. Among these the single, double, vertical, oblique, U or V-shaped, and five-branched cordons are the more generally used. Tron is often used, when the standards may be six feet high, and the wires nine inches apart. The end standards are made of angle iron with self- Fig, 40.— Pruning of a Fruit-spur. 96 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. fixing bases, and at intervals of two feet inter- mediate standards with pronged or anchor feet are placed to keep the wires in shape, and keep the whole steady. Occasionally much stronger strain- ing posts are needed, and also an angle or round bar at top or bottom to give additional strength. Strong Bessemer steel wire of No. 7, or even thicker gauge, is also often used. But really when well erected, and the wire strained tightly, it is astonishing how strong and immovable these wire espaliers are. A caution should, however, be given against the in- discriminate use of galvanised wire or iron. It seems almost certain that this proves at times in- jurious to the wood, either originating or aggravat- ing canker. Hence the safest material for espalier frames is common iron or wire, carefully coated over with coal-tar or some other equally good or better varnish. Three and four-branched cordons are far more common in France than in this country. Very fine examples of the latter were seen by the writer in the old truit garden at Versailles. They run, however, very close to horizontal or vertical-trained Pear- trees, and the five-limbed form used to be a favourite one for the training of Gooseberry and Currant bushes on walls many years ago. All the forms are equally useful for the furnishing of walls or espaliers. And the treatment of Pear cordons does not differ much from that of Apples, already described. The limited area of these small trees, and close proximity of their tops to their roots, places them more com- pletely under the control of the cultivator, and hence their whole surface should be one cord or rope of fruit from base to summit. One branch out of many on horizontal or fan-shaped trees more or less scarce of fruit may be tolerated, but to concentrate a tree into one, two, or at most a very few stems, and leave a part of one or more of these bare of fruit, is not to be endured. For the pruning and training of standard and hush sBear-trees,) see “Arprns) Vol. ile sp. a2ie Pears, however, require rather more attention, and many of the varieties require rather different treatment to Apples. The tendency to run into pyramidal forms has several times been referred to, and this tendency should have full freedom in the growth of Pears. Very few varieties, without an im- moderate amount of training, could be forced into round-headed trees. And there is no benefit, but the reverse, in attempting to force Pears into such shapes. For standard and dwarf Pears it is better to let the centre have and keep a head, so far as to make the whole of the side shoots diverge frem it in graduated heights, somewhat in the way, though with less formality than already described for the formation of pyramids. General Culture of the Pear. — This does not greatly differ from that of the Apple, already so fully described. But being rather earlier and more tender, the Pear needs more protection against spring frosts. Ou walls and espaliers this is easily given, by nets, canvas, mats, boughs, paper, &c., oiled or otherwise. On the whole, nothing is so efficient as a few Spruce, Fir, or other boughs or branches. A few of these placed over the trees thinly as they are coming into blossom will mostly suffice to carry them safely through the frosts of spring. Pyramidal and cordon trees are often protected by means of im- promptu umbrellas, made of bunting or old news- papers, or common brown paper. It is astonishing how efficient such flimsy protections are, especially in dry still weather. And it is during such weather that the cold proves most destructive. Pear cordons, run along near the ground, may be very safely carried through spring frosts by placing a foot deal or plank, or a few dry bricks, on either side of them, and covering the distance with squares of glass. But these are mere suggestions of the many methods by which enthusiasts in Pear-culture carry their trees safely through our trying springs, and obtain a good crop, while others fail. Coping projections over the walls, from four inches to eighteen wide, composed of glass, reeds, boards, boughs, slate, stone, &c. &c., are some of the more ponderous and permanent methods of protecting Pear-blossoms on walls, and, by skilful arrangement, espaliers likewise. Soon after the setting should come the thinning of the fruit. It is a mistake to wait to see what nature will do first. Nature, by grasping at all, not unfre- quently loses all. Hence the cultivator should assist nature early to retain the finest-formed, best-posted Pears for final selection. On fertile trees, and in good seasons, nature will probably elect at least ten times more fruit than the tree should be allowed to carry. Hence the importance of following swiftly with thinning on the heels of setting. All the worst and the smallest should be removed, and then thin the good fruit to a moderate crop, allowing as many again, or three to one, small Pears, such as Winter Nelis, as against Marie Louise or Williams’ Bonchrétien. When thinning the fruit it is good practice also to thin out or disbud all small useless branchlets, and any small leaves where they crowd up and smother finer or better ones. In parts of the tree in which fruit-buds or spurs may be scarce, these may be produced to a great extent to order by stopping back the shoots to a single eye at their base. But the great object in the removal of super- fluous shoots and leaves is to more fully expose to light and air the fruit, spurs, and foliage left. THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 97 During the Swelling Period, Pears should, as far as possibie, be protected from any check, either at root or top. Sudden changes of tempera- ture are almost beyond our control, but these are less injurious than great alternations of drought and moisture, and it is chiefly these that result in that most trying of all phases in Pear-culture, the crack- ing of the fruit. A good mulch, and a’ frequent soaking of sewage at the roots, and a daily syringing overhead, about 5 p.m., during hot dry weather, are among the surest antidotes to Pear-splitting. Ripening.—As the Pear approaches maturity all stimulating treatment at root or top must be withdrawn. If the summer pinching and stopping have been attended to as directed, the fruit will be fully exposed to light and air. Leaves may be manipulated, or even removed, if needful, in modera- tion, in pursuit of the final process of maturing the fruit in perfect condition. The more light and air the higher the colour, and the fuller and more luscious the flavour. The finer the fruit is, the more carefully it must be guarded against birds and wasps. The mere touch of either proves fatal to their perfect finish or keep- ing. It is less what they eat than what they destroy by touching that makes these pests so troublesome in the Pear garden. Unfortunately, the very lus- ciousness of the fruit gives forth the news far and wide that something good is going, and the insect pests come in swarms at the odoriferous call of the luscious Pears. Many means have been devised to protect the fruit, and keep out the pests by fine-meshed nettings or muslin bags, or destroying them. None are half so effective, simple, and safeas the prompt gathering of the fruit. As soon as the luscious odour proceeds from the fruit it is sufficiently ripe to gather, possibly over-ripe, and already hung into mellowness. Now a mellow Pear is a Pear already passé to connois- seurs, and there is, therefore, no need to leave Pears on the trees to hoist high and far and wide to all _ destructive pests the odorous signal. Gathering and Packing of Pears,—Ripe Pears cannot be too carefully handled; flat baskets, only to hold one row of fruit, are best, and in these they should be carried to the fruit-room and laid on shelves single file. But in packing for mar- ket it is impossible to adopt this system, and the next best thing to do is to bottom the basket with soft hay or moss, fill it as full as possible with fruit as gathered, sprinkle a slight litter of the same material over the top, and fix firmly down, and despatch at once. Pears thus packed will mostly arrive at market nearly as fresh as they left the 79 trees. It is the frequent removals that make the saddest havoc among Pears and other fine fruits. Sorting and Storing the Fruit at Home. —The sorting is almost the most important. Each sort should be placed at once where it will remain until consumed. A few sorts, such as the Citron des Carmes, and the Jargonelle, are so sensitive and so perishable that they should hardly be stored. They are best eaten off the trees. For the rest, the early, mid-season, and late Pears should all be stored in groups by themselves, and there is no better way nor place than on an open shelf in a fruit-room, cool and dry, that is, commanding as nearly as may be a temperature of 45° summer and winter. Storing in drawers, jars, &c., may also be prac- tised for the winter and spring varieties if preferred. But the jars and drawers should be empty of all else but Pears. No paper, moss, hay, sand, nor soil, nor salt, only clean sweet drawers and jars or flower-pots filled with chosen fruit, and covered over with earthenware or other tops. But shelves are better, as on these one can see at a glance how it fares with the Pears. Culture of the Trees after Gathering the Fruit.—All unduly late growths should be pinched or cut off, any breast-wood left too long cut back, and having harvested one and the main crop, that of the fruit, every attention should be bestowed on the harvesting of a second, hardly of secondary impor- tance, that is, the nut-brown fruit-buds, the Pears in embryo for next year, in an equally creditable state. Varieties of Pears.—Though less numerous than Apples, these are very numerous. The old po- mologists used to divide their catalogues into tame Pears and wildings, and both did not number a score. Soon, however, they mounted up to fifty, and early in the sixteenth century to one hundred, two hundred, and three hundred. In the seventeenth century less increase was chronicled; early in the nineteenth century, over four hundred; and in 1831 the number of Pears described in the catalogue of the Royal Hor- ticultural Society of London was over six hundred. Within the last half-century the number of Pears has increased, until now it is supposed there may be three thousand varieties in cultivation, and some of our. largest growers cultivate as many as a thousand sorts. Pear-trees of different varieties run into al- most every variety of form, from something like the narrow spire of the Lombardy Poplar, to the broad umbrageous sweep of the round-headed English Oak. Among other recent Pears worth a trial besides those named are Lucy Greive, Duchesse de Bordeaux, and MduUle. de Potolange. 98 CASSELUS POPULAR GARDENING. Sevect List oF PEarRs. Belle Julie—fruit medium size, flesh yellowish, but- tery, and very juicy; highly perfumed ; a valu- able early sort. In use October. , Bergamotte Esperen —fruit large and handsome; a most valuable late sort and richly-flavoured. The tree is a great and con- stant bearer, and succeeds well on the Quince. It ought to be grown on the wall. In use February or March. Beurre Benoit—fruit large and handsome; a most delicious sort. It de- serves a wall either south or west aspect. Septem- ber and October. Beurre Giffard—fruit me- dium size. One of our best early sorts; melting, juicy, and perfumed, Au- gust. Catillac—fruit large. One of the best stewing sorts, and bears freely as a standard. December to April. Comte de Lamy—fruit me- dium size, exceedingly rich, sugary, and highly- flavoured. October. Conseilleur de la Cour—fruit large, melting, and excel- lent. Thetree bears freely on the Quince. October and November. Dourondeau — fruit large, handsome, and heautifully coloured, melting, sweet, and richly-flavoured. The tree is a most prolific bearer, and forms a fine pyramid on the Quince. October and November. Doyenne 4d’ Alencon—fruit medium size, flesh melt- ing, and rich ; a very va- luable late sort. The tree is a good grower, and bears abundantly. Decem- ber to March. Doyenne du Comice—fruit large ; a noble sort, of ex- quisite flavour. The tree forms a fine pyramid, and succeeds well on the Quince. October and No- vember. Doyenne Robin—fruit me- dium size; a most deli- cious sort, of exquisite flavour. The tree is a great bearer, and forms a fine pyramid. October and November. Easter Beurre—iruit large, buttery, melting, highly flavoured. It requires to be grown on the wall, and remain on the tree till the end of October. In use January to March. Fondaute VAutomne— fruit large, handsome, melting, juicy, very sweet, and highly perfumed. The tree forms a fine pyramid on the Quince, and bears abundantly. October. Golden Beurre of Bilbao— fruit large; a most beau- tiful and highly-flavoured sort. September to Octo- ber. Gratioli of Jersey fruit large, melting, juicy, very sweet, and highly - fia- voured ; a very valuable autumn sort. October. Huyshe’s Prince Consort— fruit large, melting, very juicy, and deliciously fia- voured; a remarkably fine sort; succeeds well on the Quince. End of November. L’Inconnue (Van Mons) — fruit medium size, melt- ing, very juicy, rich, and pleasantly perfumed; a first-rate hardy sort. In use end of January and February. Jargonelle — fruit large: a well-known old summer sort; it bears freely if double-worked on the Quince as standards. The Pears may be eaten when gathered, as they do not keep long. August. Josephine de Malines—fruit medium size; a most de- licious variety. The tree is hardy and_ prolific ; grown on the Quince; a valuable late variety. February and March. Louise Bonne of Jersey— fruit large, and very hand- some, buttery, melting, and finely-flavoured ; one of the very best autumn varieties. The tree forms a good pyramid, succeeds well on the Quince, and is agreat bearer. October. Madame Treyve — fruit large, handsome, melting, and richly-flavoured; a valuable early sort ; suc- ceeds well on the Quince, and bears abundantly. September. Marie Louise—fruit large, melting, and exceedingly richly-flavoured ; one of the finest sorts known. The Pear hangs long on the tree ; by gathering at ditferent times, this valu- able variety may be had from October till the mid- dle of November. Mary—truit large, and very handsome, melting, juicy, and very highly -flavoured. -This variety deserves to be well known; a most delicious variety, and a good bearer. October to November. Olivier de Serres—fruit me- dium size, flesh buttery, sweet, and vinous ; agood late variety. The tree bears well on the Quince, and forms a fine pyramid. February and March. Pitmaston Duchesse—fruit large and very handsome, of the finest quality. The tree is a strong grower, and forms a handsome pyramid on the Quince a very valuable variety. October and November. St. Michel Archange — fruit large; a noble va- riety, of exquisite flavour. { | In use September to Oc- | tober. Thompson’s—fruit medium size, melting ; a delicious sort, of fine musky flayour, November. Uvedale’s St. Germain— a very large and excellent stewing variety. It re- quires to be grown on a | wall. January to May. Williams’ Bonchrétien— fruit large, melting, and juicy, with a rich flavour, and powerful aroma. The tree grows well on the Quince, and bears abun- dantly ; a well-known va- riety. August and Sept- ember. Winter Nelis—fruit medium size; a delicious variety, of great excellence. It requires a wall either of south or west aspect. December and January. List oF Harpy FREE-BEARING PEARS SUITABLE FOR GROWING FOR MARKET PURPOSES. Alexandre Lambre (Nov. to Jan.). Althorp Crasanne (Oct. to Dec.). Aston Town (Oct. to Noy.). Baronne de Mello (Noy.). Beurre d’Amanlis (Sept.). Beurre d’ Aremberg (Dec.) Beurred’ Assomption (Aug.) Beurre de Capioumont (Oct.). Beurre Clairgeau (Nov.). Beurre Diel (Nov.). Beurre Hardy (Oct.). Beurre Superfin (Sept. and Oct): Bishop’s Thumb (Oct.). Brockworth Park (Oct.). Broom Park (Jan.). Citron des Carmes (end of July). Doyenne Bussoch (Oct.). Doyenne d’Eté (end of July). Duchesse d’ Angouléme(Oct and Nov.). Eyewood (Oct.). Forelle (Dec. and Jan.). Hazel (Sept. and Oct.). Marie Louise d’Ecle (Oct.). Suffolk Thorn (Oct.). Swan’s Egg (Nov.). Vicar of Winkfield (Jan.). SUPPLEMENTARY List oF PEARS. Althorp Crasanne — Octo- ber to December; pale green, with russety spots on sunny side. Autumn Bergamot— Octo- ber ; one of our oldest and very best Pears. Beurre Bachelier—Decem- ber ; large, handsome, and of fair quality. Beurre Bose—October and November; fiesh white, melting, and buttery; best on a wall. Beurre Rance — February and May ; dark green, co- vered with russety dots ; very fine. Comte de Flandres — No- vember to January ; an es- cellent Pear ; flesh yellow- ish, melting, and sugary. Crasanne — November to December; greenist-yel- low, dotted with grey- russet ; very fine. Flemish Beauty — Septem- ber; pale yellow, almost covered with brown spots. Gansell’s Bergamot—Octo- ber to November ; green- ish-yellow, covered with reddish-brown next the sun. General Todleben — De- cember to February ; large, yellow, speckled with russet. Glout Morceaux — Decem- ber to January; first-rate —yellowish - green when ripe. Hacon’s Incomparable — November to January; yellowish-green, with a rich musky flavour. Jean de Witte — January to March ; yellowish, but- tery, and melting. Knight’s Monarch— Decem- ber to January; yellowish- green, suffused with rus- set ; very good. Maréchal de Ja Cour—Oc- tober; very bright cinna- mon-russet. Napoleon — November to December ; different and better than Napoleon III.; bright green, changing as it ripeus to greenish-yel- low. Ne Plus Meuris—January to March ; very excellent; dull yellow, overlaid with russet. Swan’s Egg—October; one of the finest, old variety. Urbaniste—October ; a deli- cious Pear; flesh white melting, and tender. Selection of Pears for. Different-sized Gardens and Particular-formed Trees.— At the risk of some repetition of names, we venture oa THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 99 to add some selections for particular purposes, merely giving the names of the different varieties. Best Srx Pears ror CorraGERS AND AMATEURS. Marie Louise. Wiuter Nelis. Williams’ Bonchrétien. Beurre Diel. Glout Morceaux. Louise Bonne of Jersey. ; TWELVE VARIETIES. The above six and the following in addition :— Josephine de Malines, Passe Colmar. Thomson’s. Beurre @’Amaiulis. Beurre Rauce. Easter Beurre. TWENTY-FOUR VARIETIES. The above twelve and the following :— Beurre de Capioumont. Beurre Gitfard. Beurre Hardy. Beurre Sterckmans. | Doyenne du Comice. Duchesse d’Angouléme. | Gansell’s Bergamot. Jersey Gratioli. Knight's Monarch. Ne Plus Meuris. Pitmaston Duchesse. Vicar of Winktield, Pears FoR WALLS. The following, though they will do well as pyra- mids in warm localities, really do best with the aid of a wall :— Beurre d’Aremberg. Beurre Diel. Beurre Rance. Beurre Sterckmans. Crasanne. Passe Colmar. Easter Beurre. Winter Nelis. And the finest kitchen Pedr, Uvedale’s St. Germain, Gansell’s Bergamot. Glout Morceaux. Jargonelle. Ne Plus Meuris. VARIETIES FOR ORCHARDS. Jersey Gratioli, Louise Bonne of Jersey. Marie Louise. Ne Plus Meuris. Aston Town. Beurre Bose. Beurre de Capioumont. Broom Park. Citron des Carmes, | Seckel. Eyewood. | Suffolk Thorn. Flemish Beauty. Swan’s Eeg. Forelle. Thomson's. Hacon’s Incomparable. Urbaniste. And for kitchen use, the Catillac and Verulam. As espalier rails are hardly warmer than orchards, the same varieties, with a few of the hardier ones, recommended for walls, will do equally well for these. Among the best varieties for forming pyramids on - the Quince are the following :— Duchesse d’Angouléme. Easter Beurre. Glout Morceaux. Alexandre Lambre. | Beurre Bachelier. . Beurre d’Aremberg. | Beurre de Capioumont. Jersey Gratioli.- Beurre Diel. Louise Bonne of Jersey. Beurre Hardy. Urbaniste. Comte de Lamy. Winter Nelis. Most of these do almost equally well for bush cul- ture or for cordons, to which the following may he added :— Beurre Bosc. Flemish Beauty. Beurre Rance Marie Louise. Seasons.—Those who are fond of very early Pears will find a deficiency in our list. But hardly any of such are worth eating. The only July Pear really worth eating is the Summer Doyenne. At the end of July or early in August, comes the Citron des Carmes, a deliciously perfumed mixture of sugar and water, so perishable withal that it should be eaten off the tree, lest it lose the bloom of its rich aroma before it reaches the table. This Pear, on warm walls and on hot sheltered sites, is frequently ripe by the middle of July. Coming into August, the Beurre Giffard and Jar- gonelle furnish a supply of good Pears. Early in September, Williams’ Bonchrétien proves a host in itself throughout the month, and to those who enjoy perfumed Pears all others are tame and seem insipid beside the Bonchrétien. Towards the end of the month Beurre d’Amanlis comes in, and this is succeeded by Beurre Superfin and British Queen, the latter hardly worthy of its name, and not recom- mended by us. In October, good Pears become plentiful as Blackberries, the following among others being then in season:—Beurre Capioumont, Beurre Hardy, Comte de Lamy, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Marie Louise d’Eecle, Suffolk Thorn, Urbaniste. November brings in addition—Beurre Diel, Gansell’s Bergamot, Doyenne de Comice, Marie Louise, Pit- maston Duchesse, Thomson’s, and Mons. le Clerc. December—Beurre Sterckmans, Crasanne, Althorp Crasanne, Passe Colmar, Comte de Flandres. January —Huyshe’s Prince of Wales, Chaumontel, Hacon’s Incomparable, Beurre Bachelier, Glout Morceaux. February—Forelle, Winter Nelis, Josephine de Malines. March—Beurre Rance, Haster Beurre, Jean de Witte. April—Ne Plus Meuris. Some of these, notably the Easter Beurre, and a few other Pears, hardly of sufficient merit to be highly recom- mended, with careful storage will keep well through May, thus leaving but one month without Pears throughout the twelve; and this might readily be bridged over by growing a plant or two of the Citron des Carmes, or Summer Doyenne, under glass in the green-house, or even ina sunny window of a sitting- room. Diseases and Insects.—Fortunately these are almost confined to two, the canker and the scale. Other diseases are sometimes met with under the very comprehensive name of blights, and not a few other names. But these two avoided or mastered, the Pear-trees will probably keep healthy and re- main clean. The wild Pear is seldom subject to diseases or insects of any sort; hence it may almost be inferred that canker is produced rather by culture than climate; and doubtless it 1s so, or rather has been, for there can be no doubt that canker is greatly on the decrease, and may probably be wholly grown out; and, indeed, this is the only cure, for notwith- 100 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. standing the volumes that have been written on the cure of canker, it is really incurable when once tho- roughly established. But prevention is better than cure; and canker may be, in fact has been, to a great extent prevented by modern methods of culture. It would also seem that some sorts of Pears have a constitutional bias towards it, just as certain families have towards the gout. Among such are the Golden and Brown Beurres, Jargonelle, and others; and these are worse in certain districts than in others; and wherever such examples are noted, let these Pears be wholly avoided in that particular locality, or tried under special conditions, such as on south walis or in orchard-houses. Other things must be avoided as well as cankerously-disposed varieties. Among these are stimulating, over-rich soils, severe pruning, ex- cessive summer pinching, over-cropping and under- cropping—in a word, all that promotes excessive vigour, or, on the other hand, leads to exhaustion. Excessive vigour, however, and surgical operations on a wide scale to get rid of its results, have been the great producing causes of canker. ‘The four chief causes, so far as known, of canker, are succu- lent growths, heat, frost, and wounds. By avoiding the first, we prevent the other three from coming into. operation, for no heat in our climate is able to scald severely the well-ripened Pear-wood; cold, or the absence of heat, is equally powerless to destroy it; while modern methods of culture render big wounds impossible by the number of little ones inflicted on the tree, and the rapidity with which the latter heal. Surface or mound planting, root-pruning, double erafting, working the Pear on the Quince, the use of smaller trees, such as cordons, bushes, pyramids, and the more limited horizontal and fan-shaped trees, the augmentation of root-force, the abolition of severe hacking and hashing under the absurd pretence of pruning, more careful thinning of the fruit, thus fitting the burden to the back that carries it—have all assisted in the extinction of canker, and hence, instead of giving any of the smears or dressings that used to be given ad libitum as sure and certain cures, the better advice to all who have cankered Pear-trees is—root them out at once, and proceed to plant, treat, and train as here directed ; and you shall have no more of it. As to blight, and all the rest of the so-called dis- cases, they seldom do much injury in this country, but prove very destructive in America and other countries where the extremes of temperature are ereater. But the means of treatment and methods of culture that will safeguard Pears against canker are exactly those that will also protect them from blight, sun-strokes, or frost-bites. Neither should Pears ever be planted in over-rich or over-wet soils, nor in the troughs of valleys, where spring frosts are almost sure not only to blacken all the fair prospect of Pears, but also to check the sap, and so produce a full crop of blight. Insects.—The Pear-tree or Oyster Scale (Aspideo- tus ostreeformis) is by far the most troublesome and destructive of all the insects that attack the Pear. Smallas it is, it not seldom attacks it with such force as to give the whole of the bark of the stems and branches a speckled appearance. It adheres so firmly to the bark that the old remedies, a hard scrubbing- brush or a blunt knife, were very inefficient. The new and better cure for most of these pests is oil, either animal, vegetable, or mineral. There is nothing better than the first, only the smell is disagreeable in the garden; the best colza or sweet oil will do instead, though hardly equally well. Two or three brushings over with paraffin will also kill the scale, but this lacks the emollient and soothing effect of the others on the bark and the branches of the tree. Among maggots, weevils, and caterpillars that attack Pear-trees, several kinds are rather prevalent and destructive. The cold-water cure, that is, a stream of water from the garden engine, sent against the tree with full force, is one of the most powerful remedies against most of these pests. Lime and soot water, a peck of each to twelve gallons, well stirred up and left to settle, and only the clear water used; Gishurst compound, a pound to a gallon; tobacco, a quarter of a pound to a gallon; quassia beer of the same strength; dustings of dry, fine snuff; quick- lime, soot, sulphur—are some of the deadly mix- tures, or nauseous removers of most of these pests. Perhaps, next to the scale, the Pear-tree Chermes, Psylia pyri, as it is called, is the most troublesome. This injures and disfigures alike the tree and its fruit, both in its larva and perfect state. The effect is similar to honey-dew, as the insects puncture the bark, prey upon the juices of the tree, and produce sticky exudations. The moment they are seen, or even the slightest symptoms appear, they should be hunted for and destroyed, or washed off with strong soap-suds or weak sewage, tobacco, or clean water. Pyralis luscana, or Red Bud Caterpillar, preys upon the leaves chiefly. The butterfly of this tronblesome moth deposits its eggs in the heart of the current . year’s buds about midsummer. These are hatched early in the following spring, the caterpillar imme- diately setting to work to cut out the heart of the erowing buds, and as it continues in the grub state for more than a month it makes great havoc among them. After this it spins a rather large white cocoon, and these, being conspicuous, are easily found and destroyed. The moths and cater- BULBOUS pillars may also be caught and Iuilled, and these and the general nauseators already named are the most efficient remedies. Just as this insect feeds chiefly on the buds, so does the Slug or Sumy Worm, Zenthredo cerasi, confine its operations chiefly to the leaves. This small black caterpillar seldom begins operations till the autumn, when it consumes all the cellular tissues of the leaves, leaving the bare nerves and veins useless, skeleton- like leaves on the branch. Fortunately their work is easily seen, and a severe pinch between finger and thumb, or frequent dustings of quicklime, make an end of this smallinsect. If not taken in time, how- ever, it ruins the leaves, and causes the fruit to drop or makes it flavourless, Only the day before writing this, the writer saw many Pear-trees totally wrecked for the season from the ravages of this small insect. The Tinea clerchela, or Pear-tree Blister-moth, also operates on the leaves, and, unfortunately, commences operations in June, while the Tenthredo seldom begins its work of destruction till September. ‘The Blister-moth also enters between the two skins of the leaves, and eats up and out all its internal tissues in safety, leaving the useless shells or outside cover- ing intact. The leaves, as if shrinking from the touch of these insects, form protuberances or blisters, revealing their presence, and enabling the pomo- logist to squash them. ‘The eges of this insect are mostly found among the dead leaves under the trees, and all these should be burned, and every means used to destroy the moth and the caterpillar. The larva of another insect, that of the Horned Tortrix, Tortrix quercana, also operates in a similar manner on the leaves, confining its operations to the under side, and concealing itself as far as may be by a thin web of its own manufacture. As it is careful never to pierce the leaf, and as its operations do not cause it to develop into blisters, it is more difficult to find. But in its last stage it becomes more bold, and spins itself into a white cocoon, and even rolls up the leaves to sleep in; and now comes the oppor- tunity of the Pear-grower to make an end of this pest by hand-picking and burning. Yet another caterpillar proves at times, though more seldom, most destructive to the leaves. This is called the Pear-tree Caterpillar, Astyages hemerobiella. Instead of consuming the whole leaf, this insect cuts it up into tiny patches, from a quarter to half an inch in diameter. This probably arises from its peculiar structure and mode of feeding—permitting it only to graze so far without a fresh start, on the Same principle as a donkey on the line of its tether. This peculiarity reveals its whereabouts, and invites the destructive touch of the cultivator. Most of the insects that prove disastrous to the Apple, with the great exception, however, of American PLANTS. 101 Blight—that, fortunately, has not yet been induced to try Pears—may frequently be found on the Pear, and should be dealt with as described for Apples. But the caterpillar of the Pear Moth, Yortriz augustiorana, like the Apple Grub, freely attacks the fruits, concealing itself under the eye and its append- ages, by a fine web, while it gnaws into safer quarters under the rind, and feasts on the substance of the Pear-flesh. Fortunately most of such fruits fall to the ground prematurely, and if these and all pre- maturely withered leaves are picked up and burnt, the probabilities are that the majority of the insects will be destroyed with them. All this may seem somewhat slow and tedious work, and it is, but it is astonishing how much may be done to clear off these most noxious in- sects by perseverance. These and other pests, such as wasps, flies, earwigs, beetles, ants, should be rooted out by cleanliness, filling up their lairs with mortar, making their homes uninhabitable with noxious smears, and alluring them into decoys and traps of various sorts, such as bottles half filled with sugar and beer, hand-lights so baited with ripe fruit that the wasps, &c., can easily get in, but cannot get out again. Besides this, all their nests must be destroyed, and birds and wasps netted out from choice fruits. Other enemies, such as rats, mice, squirrels, must be kept down if garden Pears or other fruit are to be plentiful or safe in the garden or on the walls. BULBOUS PLANTS. By WILLIAM GOLDRING. Calostemma.—aAt the present time this genus of Australian Amaryllidaceous plants is but little known in English gardens, though fifty years ago all those species comprised in the genus appear to have been grown. ‘The plants are allied to the Eurycles, and the species somewhat resemble those of that genus. They are handsome plants, growing wid along the river-banks in New South Wales and Queensland, and sometimes In company with Eurycles. They are easily-managed plants if treated in the same manner as that recommended for Eucharis and Eurycles and similar genera inhabit- ing warm and moist localities. Being water-loving plants they should be allowed abundance of water during active growth, and even during the resting period they should not be allowed to become quite dry. The leaves are sometimes produced with the flower-stems, at others not until after the flowers are over. Late autumn is the usual flowering period in this country, consequently the plants are in active growth throughout the winter. 102 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. The three species are—C. album, which has broad leaves like Hurycles Cunninghami, and tall flower- stems carrying an umbelled cluster of white flowers, reminding one of the smaller-flowered Narcissi in point of form, as they have similar cup-like centres. It is a native of Northern Australia, therefore re- quires warmer treatment than the other two species. C. purpureum, the best-known species, is a handsome plant, having bulbs two inches in diameter; long linear leaves, usually developed after the flowers. The flower-stems, which rise about two feet high, bear umbels of flowers somewhat smaller than those of C. album. They are purplish-pink and sometimes white, and are sweetly-scented, the odour reminding one of peppermint. C. luteum is similar to C. pur- purewum, but has larger flowers, and yellow instead of purplish or white. The two latter species are natives of the more temperate parts of Australia, and therefore do not require the tropical treatment necessary for C. album. Camassia (Quamash).—This is a genus of Lily- worts, natives of North America. ‘The oldest and best-known species is one of the showiest hardy bulbous plants that we have in gardens. ‘This is C. esculenta, or what is commonly called the Quamash, or Camass Root, by the North American Indians, who use the bulbs as food. When well-grown, this plant is a yard or more in height when in bloom. The spikes are quite erect, and are furnished upon their upper parts with from twenty to twenty-five flowers, measuring about two inches across and vary- ing in colour from a slate-purple in the ordinary form, to an intensely deep violet-purple in the variety called atro-cerulea, which is by far the hand- somest of the varieties. The foliage is long and erass-like, produced in tufts, as the bulbs invariably crowd together in old-established plants. The Qua- mash is indifferent as regards soil, though it loves a deep rich sandy loam, and thrives best in a sheltered yet sunny situation. Good bold clumps of it have a fine effect in a border having a background of shrubs. It begins to flower about the beginning of May, and lasts for a few weeks, and the flowers are suitable for cutting. The other species are C. Leichtlinii and C. Fraservi. The first may be best described as the counterpart of (. esculenta, except that the flowers are greenish-white. It is, moreover, altogether of a stronger constitution. It is not very common. C. Fraserii is called the Eastern Quamash, as it is confined to the Eastern United States. “It is a dis- tinct and pretty plant, inasmuch as the flowers are of _akind of purplish-mauve, very soft and pleasing, but the whole plant is only about half the size of the common Quamash, and the spikes are shorter and smaller, Both of these species thrive well in com- pany with C. esculenta, All may be raised from seed, which they produce plentifully in good seasons. It should be sown as soon as ripe, otherwise it is a long time in germinating. The easiest way, how- ever, of increasing it is by division of the bulbs, that is, separating the small bulblets from the parent bulbs in autumn and re-planting them at once in prepared soil. Chionodoxa Luciliz (Snow Glory).—Since the introduction of this charming spring flower a few years ago from Syria, it has acquired a wide-spread popularity, till now it is as common as the Vernal Squills. It is indeeda lovely plant, and the garden that does not possess it is deprived of much ede during the early days of spring. It is a Scilla-like plant, with flower-stems bearing as many as a dozen blossoms, which are from one inch to one and a half across, of a bright turquoise- blue, with pure white centre. In mild seasons the first flowers expand in the beginning of February, and it continues in beauty for some weeks. It has proved itself perfectly hardy, and an easy plant to cultivate ; indeed, it is difficult to eradicate it where once established, as it multiplies so freely, and dis- perses its seeds widely, so that self-sown seedlings spring up in all directions near the original plants. It is a plant that requires to be left alone undis- turbed for some years, otherwise, if lifted often the flower-stems are weakly and the flowers small. Any ordinary garden soil suits it, but it is grateful for a deep loamy soil and a warm sunny situation. It is largely imported from the mountains of Syria, and as it grows in company with Scilla bifolia, the two plants are imported together, and it is difficult to separate them until in flower, as the bulbs are so much alike. This species, which is also called C. Forbesi, is by far the most showy of the cultivated species, though ©. sardensis is extremely pretty, chiefly differing from C. Lucilie by its smaller flowers and the abscnce of any whiteness in the blooms, being wholly of the richest blue. Another and rarer species, though long cultivated under the name of Puschkinia scilloides, is one called C. nana. It is only about half the size of C. Lucilie, and the flowers though small are of a pretty porcelain-blue, pro- duced in short loose spikes. It is more delicate than the other species, and requires a select spot out of harm’s way of ranker-growing plants. Also a native of Asia Minor. Chlidanthus fragrans.—This is a handsome native of Chili and Buenos Ayres, having large trumpet-shaped blossoms of a bright yellow, and very fragrant. It is a rather tender plant, and either requires green-house or frame culture, or in southerly BULBOUS PLANTS. 103 districts to be planted in a warm border at the foot of a south wall. The bulbs should be potted or planted in early spring, in rich loamy soil. In the case of pot culture the bulbs should not be watered until the folage appears, but when in active growth water may be given liberally, and the plants may be placed on a light shelf in a green-house or frame. Its flowers appear about June, and after the foliage has ripened and decayed the bulbs may be taken out of the soil, and kept in dry mould or sand till planting- time in spring—February or March. Chlorogalum pomeridianum (Soap Plant). —This Californian plant cannot be called showy, but as it is distinct in appearance, some may like to grow it. It has a large bulb, long narrow leaves, and produces a spreading branching flower-stem, bear- ing numerous white flowers in summer. It is hardy, and thrives in. an ordinary border, and is not worth much attention. It is nearly allied to Camassia, and the white C. Leichtlinii; is also called Chlorogalum Leichtlhinir. Choretis glauca.—This is an old, and at one time was a common, plant in hot-houses. It is a near ally of Pancratium and Hymenocallis, in which latter genus it 1s included by botanists. Its large black-coated bulb bears several broad and long leaves of a glaucous-green tint, hence its name. The flowers are produced in terminal umbel-like clusters. Each has along slender tube, narrow sepals, and a large cup-like crown of transparent whiteness, spotted in the middle with green. It hasno particular flowering season, but blooms generally from early summer till autumn. It requires the same treatment as such evergreen bulbs as Hymenocallis and Pancratium, directions for which will be given hereafter. Coburghia.—Though not generally cultivated in this country, a few of the Coburghias, which are all South American bulbs, are really very hand- some, and well deserve the attention of cultivators. A good many species are known to botanists, but only a few have been introduced. The best known is C. incarnata, which has long been a favourite green-house plant. It has large bulbs, which send up stout flower-stems terminated by clusters of fovr or five very beautiful coral-tinted and scarlet flowers, which are tubular and gracefully droop. Another handsome species is C. trichroma, the flowers of which are similar to the foregoing but coloured with green, yellow, and salmon tints. C. fulva, a less showy kind, is also cultivated. The Coburghias, being deciduous, may be kept in dry sand or mould during winter, and potted in early Spring in rich loamy soil, as they are gross feeders when in active growth. A warm and moist atmo- sphere is best for the bulbs when first started, but after the leaves are fully developed a drier treatment must be given, together with as much sunlight as possible, in order to thoroughly ripen the bulbs. They flower at the end of summer, after which the bulbs have done their work for the season, and may then be rested until spring by withholding water. Colchicum (Meadow Saffron).—In the shorten- ing days of autumn, when the brightness of the summer flowers is on the wane, the Meadow Saffron flowers peep above the ground, and are therefore most welcome at that season, although they lack the interest that spring-flowering bulbs awaken. The Meadow Satfrons are indeed very old-fashioned plants, for they have been cultivated from the earliest times, they were familiar to such early writers on garden plants as Parkinson, who admirably figures some of them in his quaint book, and from that time to this they have always been favourites in English gardens. ‘ The Colchicums when in flower so much resemble the Crocuses that to many they are indistinguish- able, though they are abundantly distinct in foliage, which in the Colchicum is long and generally broad, while in all the Crocuses it is grass-like. With but few exceptions the flowers appear unaccompanied by leaves, these having died away during the previous ‘summer, not to reappear before the early spring, when they are accompanied by the seed-pod, which during winter has been maturing itself beneath the surface. The bulbs of the Colchicum are, moreover, very different from those of the Crocus, being more like those of Tulips. The prevalent colour of Col- chicum flowers is rose-purple, the exception being in (. dutewm, a Himalayan species with small yellow flowers, and which is scarcely worth cultivation. There are a good many species of Colchicum in gardens, but several of them bear such a close re- semblance to each other when in flower that they are well regarded by the gardener as identical. C. autumnale, often called the Autumn Crocus, is by far the commonest of the Meadow Saffrons, and on account of its having been cultivated in some parts of the country for the manufacture of a drug from its roots, it has become so plentiful that it is looked upon as a native plant. It flowers about September, unaccompanied by leaves, but being pro- duced in clusters of several together, the flowers are showy. Inthe typical kind they are pale mauve- purple, but there are several varieties, particularly with double flowers, that vary in tint. Thus, there is a double white, wbum plenum ; rosewm, of a more rosy hue than the original; pallidum, very pale pink; 104 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. striatum, striped mauve and white; and atropur- pureum, several shades darker than the type. The double sorts, especially the double white, are the most desirable as they are most attractive in a bor- der and endure longer in flower. Nearly allied to C. autwmnale, as regards the size and form of the flowers, and flowering at the same period, are C. byzantinum, turcicum, letuwn; and similar species, but having smaller flowers, are such as arenarium, neapolitanun, alpinum, and wmbroswm. With rather small flowers, and flowering either in the autumn or spring, are C. montanum and C. crociflorum. The foregoing species, being so nearly alike from a garden point of view, might well be included under the head of autwmnale, and being all hardy they thrive under the same conditions, such as an ordinary border. Some, such as C. byzantinum, have very broad leaves, while those of others are small and narrow; but as these are always produced in spring, and not at the flowering-time, the foliage is of little interest. C. speciosum is by a long way the finest of the Meadow Saffrons, and is at the same time one of the finest of all autumn-flowering hardy plants. It is like a magnified C. autwmnale. When well- grown the large globose flowers are nearly a foot high, and of a rose-purple, varying in intensity in the various forms. This is, indeed, a noble plant, desirable for every garden; and as it flowers in September and October, when open-air flowers are not plentiful, it is doubly welcome. Like awtennale, it flowers without leaves, these being produced in early spring, and when full-grown they are some four inches broad, and about a foot in length ; they are, therefore, handsome in the spring border. C. variegatum.—This species may be taken as the type of about a dozen others, characterised by the tessellated or chequered markings of the flowers, otherwise they resemble the qautwmnale set, as they are about the same size and form, and flower at the same period, and also before the foliage. The principal species in the group is C. variegatwin itself, one of the oldest of garden plants, having been cultivated in the sixteenth century by Parkinson. It still retains the name of C. Parkinsoni as well as that of C. chionense. ‘The flowers have pointed sepals, of a pale lilac, chequered with deep lilac- purple. C. agrippinum, also called tessellatum, is similar, as are C. Bivone lusitanum, and Tenorii, all of which are in cultivation. All are natives of South Europe and Asia Minor. Culture.—Colchicums are the simplest of bulbs to cultivate ; indeed, they require no attention what- ever when once they are planted in suitable soil, and in a congenial spot. Any garden soil suits them, though they have a decided partiality for a sandy loamy soil. They rarely, if ever, require transplanting, and therefore the bulbs need not be disturbed, except for the purpose of propagation, once in about three or four years. When it is necessary to lift the bulbs it should be done about midsummer, and they should be re-planted at once in fresh enriched ground. When undisturbed a little mulching of leaf-mould or manure in winter will benefit the bulbs. Seedlings of Colchicums can easily be raised, as seed is borne and ripened plenti- fully. It should be sown as soon as ripe, which is about midsummer, and the seedlings will attain a flowering size in about three seasons. As the bulbs of nearly all the Colchicums flower in a dry state, even if not in soil, they may be flowered in rooms like Hyacinths. The bulbs should be placed in damp sand, and surrounded by Fern-fronds or other greenery; they then have a pretty effect. As soon as the flowers are past the bulbs should be planted out. Colchicums are so accommodating that they may be grown in various positions in the mixed border, shrubbery margin, rock garden, or may be natural- ised in grass in semi-wild spots. In the latter position care must be taken that the foliage is not cut off before it is quite ripened, or the bulbs will be weakened. The bulbs produce the best effects when planted in bold masses, not dotted here and there in small patches. Cooperia.— There are two plants belonging to this genus, both natives of Mexico and Texas. They are allied to the Zephyr Flowers (Zephran- thus). These are C. Drummondii and C. pedunculata. The first has grassy foliage about a foot long, pro- duced in autumn. The flower-stem, about four inches in height, bears a bloom having a slender tube four and a half inches long, and white petals, the whole flower being some two inches across. Each bulb produces two or more flower-stems in a season, but the flowers do not endure more than a day or so, and they generally open during the evening. C. pedunculata is a finer plant, having longer leaves and larger flowers, the latter being over two inches across, pure white, and very fra- grant. The Cooperias are not very hardy in this country, and require frame or green-house culture, in pots. Their resting period is during summer, when devoid of foliage; they should then receive all the sun-warmth possible, in order to ripen their bulbs. and prepare them for sending up their leayes and flowers in autumn. Crinum.—For the stove, the green-house, and even the open-air border, the Crinums are of great. importance, being among the finest of all bulbs of the Amaryllis family. They are for the most part BULBOUS stately in growth, hearing handsome evergreen foliage, and generally large, beautitully coloured, and often very fragrant flowers. But notwithstand- ing these good qualities they are not a popular class of plant, and until lately have suffered from undue neglect in gardens. Since, however, some hand- some new species have been introduced a fresh impetus has been given to their culture, and they will in all pro- bability become popular. The genus is a large one, and is widely distri- buted throughout the world, but chiefly in the tro- pics. The species require, therefore, diverse cultural treatment, some succeeding in the stove, others in the green-house, while a few may be grown in the open air in this country. The character- istic features of Crinums are tuni- cated bulbs, some- times globose, but often elongated into a sort of thickened stem, or neck; the leaves are usually long, broad, fleshy, chan- nelled, and ever- green, The flower stems are generally stout and erect, longer than the leaves, and terminated by umbelled clusters of flowers; these are usually large and shallow-cup- shaped. The genus, which numbers over sixty species, is divided into three sections or sub-genera, the distinguishing characters of which are based upon the form of the flower, and each of these groups includes about an equal number of species. First, there is the Asiaticwm group, in which the flowers are usually quite erect, and with narrow petals. Included in this group, with ©. asiaticum as the type, are C. defixum, pedunculatum, bracteatum, cruentum, and caribbeum. The second, or Ameri- CRINUM BRACHYNEMA, i PLANTS. 105 canum group, is characterised by the tube of the flower being straight or curved, and the petals spreading out flat when fully expanded. In this group are O. americanum, amenum, augustum, angustifolium, purpurascens, erubescens, and pratense. The third group, of which C. Jatifoliwmn is the type, includes all those species which have flowers with curved tubes and broad horizontally poised petals. This section in- cludes the hand. somest species, such as (. latifo- lium, Careyanum, Broussonetti, gi- ganteum, lineare, campanulatum, capense, flaccidum, and zeylanicum. C. amabile. — This is one of the largest - growing species, having smallish bulbs, and producing from twenty to thirty evergreen leaves, about a yard in length. It flowers in win- ter, producing on a stout stem, two or three feet high, some twenty or thirty flowers in a dense umbelled cluster. They are white, tinged on the outside with red. They are deliciously _fra- erant, which ren- ders it a desirable plant for the stove. It is a native of Sumatra, therefore requires the warmest treatment. C. americanum.—Being a native of the Southern United States, this species is almost hardy in this country. It has a large ovoid bulb, with a short neck, and narrow leaves from two to three feet long. The flower-stem, produced in summer and about two feet high, bears an umbel of about half a dozen very fragrant pure white flowers. This beautiful plant is worth special attention, more particularly as it may be grown out of doors. It likes a deep light soil in a warm sunny spot, with plenty of moisture during summer. It is advisable to plant the bulbs deep and protect them during winter with ashes or litter. 106 CASSELL’S. POPULAR GARDENING. C. angustifolium —an Australian species — is a medium-size plant, having a globose bulb and nar- row leaves, from one and a half to two feet long. The flower-stem is about a foot high, bearing an umbel of about five or six white flowers, with red stamens. Requires stove treatment. CO. asiaticum 1s one of the commonest and best- known species in gardens. It is one of the largest- growing species, having bulbs about six inches high, with a long thin neck. The leaves, some three or four feet long, are broad, and deeply channelled. The flower-stem carries as many as two dozen blossoms, some three or four inches long, and white tinged with red. Thougha plant of noble growth, it is not so desirable as C. augustum, and like that species is only suited for very large stoves. It is a native of tropical Asia, where it has a wide distribution, and this gives rise to several varieties more or less distinct. C. augustum is a large-growing plant of noble appearance, having a bulb quite a foot in height, and half as much in diameter at the largest part. The leaves are about a yard long, and from twenty to thirty to each bulb. The flower-stems are from two to three feet high, stout and erect, bearing in a dense umbel from one dozen to two dozen flowers, from three to four inches long ; bright red on the outside, palish within, This noble species, one of the finest of the genus, is a native of the Mauritius, where it grows in marshy places. It requires a_ stove temperature and abundance of moisture. It is only suitable for growing in the largest hot-houses, and it is frequently met growing in huge tubs and pots. C. brachynema.—A pretty and distinct species, small enough to be grown in any hot-house. It has ovoid bulbs about three inches in diameter, and with a distinct neck. The leaves are about two feet long, and the flower-stem, about a foot high, bears a cluster of pure white flowers, about two inches across. Itis a native of the Bombay Presidency, therefore requires a warm and moist treatment. C. bracteatwn is a tropical African species of medium growth, bearing clusters of from ten to twenty white flowers, that are somewhat fragrant. Not so desirable as some other species. C. campanulatum.— A beautiful Cape Colony Species, rare in gardens, but extremely desirable on account of its being a cool-house plant. Its ovoid bulb produces several long narrow leaves and slender stems, terminated by about half a dozen bright red- purple flowers, some three inches across. It grows naturally in wet places, and on that account received the name C. aquaticum. It may be grown success- fully in a green-house, or even in a frame, and must be treated as a sub-aquatic, abundance of moisture being requisite for it, particularly during its growing season. C. capense is another South African species, and is one of the commonest in gardens, where it may be found under the various names of Amaryllis capensis, A. longifolia, and C. riparium. It is quite hardy in this country, even so far north as Edinburgh, and not only thrives but produces seeds abundantly, from which seedlings may be easily raised. It has a bulb three or four inches long, and as much in diameter, producing about a dozen pale green leaves, some two or three feet long. The flowers, produced in clusters of from six to twelve, on stems about one and a half feet high, are large, and showy, varying from white in the variety a/bwn, to deep purplish- red in the variety ripariwn. Being such a free seeder, hybridists long ago succeeded in raising numerous distinct and beautiful hybrids. Im Dean Herbert’s time several were raised between this species and such as C. scabrum, lineare, Careyanum, latifolium, and others. The names of these hybrids were C. Govenii, Herbertii, Wallichii, Seymourii, Shepherdii, and Mitchamiea. It is doubtful if any of these older hybrids exist in gardens at the present day, but there are some newer crosses which are probably quite as handsome, and one called Powellii, presum- ably a cross between C. capense and the beautiful C. Moorei, a nearly hardy species, is a very fine variety, and one that must eventually prove of great value as a garden plant. It has umbels of large open flowers, of a beautiful deep rose-pink colour. It is quite as hardy as C. capense, and thrives in the neighbourhood of London in an open moist border. C. capense, like campanulatum, is a semi-aquatic plant, and if not grown actually in water or mad, must be supplied with abundance of water during summer. C. Careyanum.—One of the handsomest of all the Crinums, and an excellent garden plant, being easily managed. It has.a globose bulb, some three or four inches in diameter, and a short neck. The leaves, half a dozen to a dozen on each bulb, are long, of a deep green, and wavy. The flower-stem rises about one and a half feet high, carrying a cluster of lovely ivory-white flowers, tinged with pink, and some four or five inches across. It is an old and well-known plant, but none the less beautiful for that. The name Careyanum is often found in gardens and nurseries attached to other species, particularly those which, like it, have a curved flower-tube and spreading sepals. Being a native of Mauritius it re- quires stove treatment. C. Commelynii—a native of tropical America—is a very old species, figured so long ago as the be- ginning of the last century. It has a medium-sized short-necked bulb, long and narrow leaves, and largish flowers, with the sepals marked with red- purple on their exteriors. It is an interesting plant, but not one of the most desirable. Stove. BULBOUS PLANTS. 107 C. erubescens in stature and leaf is similar to the preceding, and also has short-necked bulbs. The flowers are produced from four to eight together in umbels, on stems from one and a half feet to two feet high. They are white, tinged with claret-purple, the sepals being narrow and reflexed. An old and well-known plant in gardens. A native of South America. Stove. C. Forbesianum.—This handsome species has long been introduced to gardens, though it is still uncom- mon. It belongs to the Jatifoliwm section. It hasa very large bulb without a neck, and about a dozen very long and glaucous leaves. The flowers are pro- duced thirty or forty together, in an umbel, on a short stout stem. They are large, with sepals about an inch broad, white, conspicuously banded with bright red down the back. It isa native of Delagoa Bay, and therefore requires warm stove treatment. C. giganteum is a favourite species in gardens, on account of its flowers being large, of pure ivory- whiteness, and deliciously fragrant. The bulbs are long-necked, and as much as six inches in diameter. The leaves are nearly a yard long, and bright green. The flower-stems rise about two or three feet high, bearing from four to six flowers, produced gene- rally in April, but it often continues to send up flower-spikes throughout the summer. stove treatment, and abundance of moisture while growing. It is a native of West Tropical Africa, growing in deep swamps in the forests. A finer garden plant could not be desired. C. Kirkii, a recently introduced species from Zanzibar, is an excellent garden plant, distinct and highly attractive in flower. It has medium-sized bulbs, long and bright green leaves. The flower- stems generally thrown from each bulb are about one and a half feet high, each carrying about a dozen large flowers, having white sepals, conspicuously striped with deep red. Itis justly considered to be one of the finest of the cultivated Crinums. ceeds well under ordinary stove culture. C. latifolium.—A variable species, widely distri- buted throughout the plains of India. It is a hand- some plant, with globose neckles: bulbs, numerous long bright green leaves, and flower-stems rising about two feet high, bearing umbels of from ten to twenty flowers. These are large, with sepals an inch broad, white faintly tinged with red. Stove. C. Moorei.—The introduction of this lovely species from South Africa some years ago was a great gain on account of its being nearly, if not quite, hardy in these islands. It has certainly proved hardy at Glasnevin, near Dublin, where it was received first. There it has been planted out for years at the foot of a warm wall, and though in severe winters the foliage becomes injured, the bulbs pass unscathed, It suc- It requires and throw up young foliage again in spring. It has very large globose bulbs, with an unusually long neck, and bright green leaves, from two to three feet long. ‘The flowers are about six inches across, openly bell-shaped, and of a lovely soft pink colour. They are produced from six to ten together in umbels, on stems from one and a half to two feet long. This is such a beautiful plant that it deserves some attention in growing it well, and though so hardy it should not be risked outside, except in very favourable localities. It grows admirabiy nan ordinary green- house, only requiring plenty of water while growing, and a slight rest in winter. It is so floriferous that it frequently sends up flower-stems throughout the summer in succession, therefore its value as a green- house plant cannot be over-estimated. ‘There are a few distinct forms of it, varying in tint from almost a white to a deep rose. It may be found in gardens under the names of C. Macowani, Mackenii, Makoya- num, and ornatwm, but most of these names apply to distinct species. C. pedunculatum is a small-bulbed species in the way of C. amabile. It has huge umbels of fragrant flowers, with narrow, reflexing sepals, and pure white. The bulbs are large, thick-necked, and the leaves long and broad. It flowers in summer. It is a native of New South Wales, and a variety of it, called pacificum, is a native of Lord Howe’s Island, where it is known as the Wedding Lily. It succeeds in a warm green-house, rarely failing to produce several spikes of bloom during the summer. It is found sometimes catalogued as C. australe, its older name. C. Sanderianum, a newly introduced species from Sierra Leone, is of medium growth, with bulbs some two inches in diameter. The flowers are large, with white sepals, broadly banded with reddish-crimson. Not much is known of its culture, but it presurmabl7 requires warm and moist stove treatment. C. scabrum, anative of Rio Janeiro, is a very hand- some warm green-house species. It is one of the largest in growth, having massive bulbs, and very long and broad leaves. The flower-stems, however, are shortish, and few-flowered, producing only about half a dozen bloomsin each umbel. These are white, striped with red. It is a free-flowering species, each plant bearing several flower-stems during the summer. C. seylanicwm is a beautiful species, and valuable on account of its winter-flowering tendency. It ‘thas large globose bulbs, without a neck, long and tolerably broad leaves. The flower-stems, about a yard high, bear large umbels of deliciously fragrant blossoms. These are white, with a broad band of claret-red down the centre of each of the narrow refiexed sepals. It is widely distributed through ~ ment. 108 tropical Asia and Africa, and has long been in cultivation. It requires stove treatment. Culture.—The tropical Crinums are among the most easily cultivated bulbs, and any one who can grow Eucharis, Pancratiums, and all such-like bulbs well, can succeed with Crinums. ‘The chief point to observe is that, in order for Crinums, or indeed any other bulbous plant, to flower freely, the bulbs must be well developed, and thoroughly ripened. Hence it is a matter of importance to treat the plants liberally while they are developing bulbs, by allow- ing plenty of heat and moisture, and nutritious food in the way of diluted manure-water occasionally. As the various species of Crinum are so diverse as re- gards their habit of growth, flowering season, and other peculiarities, no definite rule can be laid down as to when the plants will require this liberal treat- This must be applied when they are in active growth, and this active growth generally commences after the bulbs have bloomed. When new leaves are being made, and ofisets developed, then is the time to give the plant nourishment. After the growth is perfected water may be gradually withheld, and, if convenient, the plants at the same time should be placed in a lower temperature. This resting period, in the case of most of the species, generally occurs during winter, and with the warm days of spring active growth commences. In the case of the ever- green kinds, they must not, of course, be kept dry at any period, and they may be purchased at all seasons at nurseries. The deciduous species must be kept dry while leafless, and these may be purchased in a dry state during autumn and winter. Being mostly natives of wet places, Crinums require, as a rule, more water than the generality of bulbs; in fact, during summer they cannot well have too much. It is well to remember also that, like many other bulbs, they donot like to be disturbed; indeed, they thrive best when pot-bound for years, so long as they re- ceive nourishment in the shape of manure-water oc- casionally. The best time to re-pot is directly after they have flowered, potting them firmly in good- sized pots, allowing ample room for soil, which should consist of good fibry loam, with enough sand to keep the compost open. Jor the strong-growing kinds a little well-decayed manure, leaf-mould, or crushed bones, may be mixed with the potting com- post. In potting Crinums the bulbs must not be inserted in the soil deeply, as it is natural for the collar or neck to be above ground. In the case of those species indicated above that are hardy enough to be planted out in frames or out of doors, such as C. Moorei, americanum, capense, the good soil must have a depth of about two feet, as the bulbs must be planted deep, and they throw out long fleshy roots, which require nourishment. These half-hardy kinds CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. always succeed best at the foot of a warm south wail, and the secret of success is to leave them undisturbed from year to year, protecting the bulbs during the winter by a heap of ashes or leaf-mould. Propagation.—The simplest method of increasing Crinums is by detaching the bulblets which form around the parent bulbs during the season. These should be detached at the potting-time, and should be potted in small pcts, placing a layer of sand be- neath the bulb so as to induce the formation of root- lets. Afterwards, the bulbs will require the same treatment as adult plants. Some species throw out bulb-bearing runners much more freely than others. Crinums may also be propagated readily by seeds, which they freely produce, asa rule. By intercrossing the various species some very fine hybrids have been raised. ‘The seeds, which are round and fleshy, are generally a long time coming to perfection. They should be sown, as soon as ripe, on the surface of shallow pans filled with ordinary potting soil, and kept warm, moist, and close. In a few weeks the seeds will germinate, and as soon as they are large enough they should be potted separately in small- sized pots. Their after-treatment, until they arrive at a flowering age, is much the same as that recom- mended for other stove bulbs, but as the aim is to develop the bulbs into a flowering size, they should not receive the alternative treatment of starving and feeding which is necessary in order for mature bulbs to flower freely. THE PEACH AND NECTARINE UNDER GLASS. By WILLIAM COLEMAN. PRUNING. : PINIONS differ widely as to the best mode of pruning the Peach and Nectarine. Some cut their newly-planted trees back to within a few buds of the base by way of giving them what they term a fair start. Others shorten moderately, some notat all. The first belong to the old school, the last to a school that is older than some writers, who claim the system for themselves, would have us believe. The middle course is taken by men who are ever ready to take advantage of the two systems in order to shape their trees to their ends. When Peach-trees are established on open walls, shortening back to well- ripened buds is often necessary ; but where the culti- vator has the advantage of all the elements, including fire-heat as’ now applied to modern glass-houses, the strongest shoots should be ripened up to the ex- treme points, and regularly furnished with wood and blossom buds. THE PEACH AND NECTARINE UNDER GLASS. Extension Training.—Assuming that the trees with which a set of Peach-houses was planted in the autumn are the best the nurseryman could supply, that they contain ten or twelve shoots each as in Fig. 8, and the extension fan system of training, which is the best, has been decided upon; if all the shoots are equally strong, four on each side may be laid in the full length, the first or lowest pair nearly horizontal, the others radiating from the centre; but if any are unusually strorg, they must be shortened back to a good bud, to preserve the even balance of the tree. When we come to the two shoots nearest the centre, and therefore nearly vertical, shortening Fig. 11.—Extension Training, back to one-half their length, say at aa (Fig. 8), will induce all the back buds to break, from which a suffi- cient number of shoots can be selected to form the centre of the future tree. When this moderate pruning has been completed and the shoots have been neatly tied to the wires, daily syringing will soon cause every bud to throw outa shoot; but as not more than one-tenth of them will be required, dis- budding, when they get about two inches in length, must be gradually proceeded with. The back and fore-right shoots should be taken away with a sharp knife. Then after an interval of a day or two all the breaks on the lower sides should be reduced to three, and when it is seen which of the growths on the upper sides are well placed and likely to take the lead, two of the best should be retained, one near the base, and another nearly midway, all the others being taken away. As growth under glass will be rapid, these in a few days will again require thinning by the removal or pinching of the growths from the lower sides, the lateral growths on the upper sides against. 109 with the leader being sufficient to form the first year’s shoots. These must be regularly tied in from four to six inches apart, and allowed to grow to the fullest extent, at least so long as there is no sign of any of them being left behind. Should this be the case, the points of the most vigorous leaders must be pinched where it is deemed necessary to maintain the proper balance of every part of the tree. If this is not done the leaders near the centre are apt to get too strong at the expense of the side shoots, which are _ less likely to receive a fair share of the sap when it has forced its way ‘into these vertical channels; but by pinching the ex- treme points of Fig, 12.—Wood-buds at aa. Fig. 13.—Wood-buds and Flower-buds. these leaders, laterals and sub-laterals can be obtained and laid in so as to form a very large tree by the end of the season. When the wood is ripe it will be found that an evenly-balanced tree, from eight to ten feet across the breast, capable of bearing several dozens of fruit, is again ready for the winter pruning, if the entire removal of a superfluous shoot can be called pruning. No shortening back will be needed, but each terminal bud must be again allowed to break and push its way to the extremity of the space which it is allotted to fill; disbudding must also be attended to, and great care must be observed in performing this with a liberal hand, as over-crowding is one of the worst evils the extension trainer has to guard When the trees have filled the trellis, the annual removal of the shoots from which the fruit has been gathered is extremely simple, as each of these will have a young growth that originated near the base (as in Fig. 11) ready to take its place. The best time to do this is immediately after the last fruit 110 has been taken from the tree, for then the foliage, which grows to a large size under extension training, gets the full benefit of light and air, and the force of the returning sap goes to the perfect formation and maturation of the buds from which the succeeding year’s crop is to be obtained. When all the leaves have fallen from the trees, and the time has arrived for giving them the winter dressing, it will be necessary to go carefully over every branch with a sharp Peach-pruner to smooth any cuts that were imperfectly made while the foliage was yet upon them, and to shorten‘a leader where it has reached the extremity of the trellis. In order to perform this pro- perly, it is neces- sary to be able to distinguish wood- buds from blossom- buds, for if short- ened back to the latter, the shoot will die back to the wood-bud next be- low it. Sometimes all the buds on a shoot, with the ex- ception of the ter- minal and one at the base, are flower- buds (Fig. 12), the removal of which would cause the shoot to die back altogether; there- fore, to avoid this mishap, the operator should be able to tell ata glance which is the proper bud to prune back to. Fig. 13 represents a portion of a shoot with a triple eye; @ in the centre is a wood- bud; 60 are flower-buds. In Fig. 14, aa are wood- buds, 4d are flower-buds. The first are long, narrow, and pointed; the latter globose, plump, and hoary. It is always safe to prune to a triple bud, not so toa single bud, although it may be long and pointed, as some varieties of Peaches, especially Noblesse, cast all their wood-buds, if at all weak, except the terminal and one near the base. Some kinds of Peaches have a tendency to produce spurs, asin Fig. 15. All the buds on this growth but two, aa, are blossom-buds, consisting of the rudiments of the future flower. Those near the point, being ripe, generally set freely, and sometimes produce good but not such fine fruit as that obtained from the free-growing shoots. When shy kinds, like Belle Beauce, are forced early, Fig, 14.—Wood-buds and Flower- buds. CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. many growers pinch some of the fore-right shoots instead of rubbing them off to induce the formation of spurs, and believers in the short-lived Cordons de- pend greatly on spurs for their supply of Peaches. But under extension training they are not often met with, neither are they needed. In a preceding chapter, short or tall double-worked standards were favourably noticed. Why these trees do better than dwarfs it is difficult to explain, unless it is that the second working is further away from the ground, and the sap in its upward course gets two slight checks instead of one. Such, how- ever, is the case under glass as well as in the open air, and it is to be re- gretted that nur- serymen do not work more of their trees on two to three feet stems. The house shown in Fig. 3, and a case containing 350 square feet of trellis, were planted with trees of this kind, and the produce within four years paid for the houses. ‘The measurement of one of the stems, a Royal George, “now rising five years from an un- trained maiden, is fourteen inches close to the ground, and sixteen inches just below the upper working. It produced twenty dozen of fruit in 1883, eighteen dozen 1n 1882, and the first crop in 1881 was borne on strong shoots, many of them five feet in length. The Peaches on these growths were left twelve inches apart. Many of the old-school disciples pre- dicted a firely-swelled Peach at the top of each shoot, others a failure; but all came up alike well. The tree at the present moment is a sheet of flower from base to summit, and will most likely yield twenty-five dozen of fruit of the finest quality. The pruning of this particular tree, which is a fair but not an extraordinary example of the extension principle, is managed in the followmg way. Young growths of the preceding summer are laid in regu- larly at the winter dressing six inches apart; but none of them are shortened back unless there is likely to be a dearth of fruiting wood in any parti- Fig. 15.—Dormant Spur of Royal George Peach. THE PEACH AND .NECTARINE UNDER GLASS. ; 111 cular part of the tree the following year, when they are pruned toa,triple bud. The summer manage- ment is equally simple. When ready for disbudding a promising break is left near to the base, to be tied in parallel with the fruit-bearing wood which it is intended to replace after the Peaches are gathered. All surplus breaks, with the exception of those from the nodes where the fruit is intended to remain, are then removed: but the latter are pinched in close to secure foliage unless the tree is likely to become crowded, in which case they also are gradually re- moyed. The leading shoots grow on until the fruit commences the last swell- mg for ripening; the points are then pinched out, unless they are main leaders, to throw size into the fruit. When trees of this kind are . properly formed, a person of only moderate experience can manage them, as it is sim- ply necessary to secure a good break from the bot- tom of every fruiting shoot, and perhaps one also from the centre of extra strong growths. Restriction Training.— Although extension training has resulted in the production of many of the finest old trees in the kingdom, and many gar- deners have found it equally applicable to all other kinds of fruit-trees, there are others who still remain faithful to the system so ably, and it may not be too much to say, unfortunately, pro- pounded and illustrated by Dr. Lindley and Robert Thompson. As if the annual cutting back in the nursery were not enough, all growers of stone- fruit trees were taught to continue the use of the knife not only to give the thrice-cut-backs ‘a fair start,” but to continue the process by cutting away one-half, and in some cases two-thirds, of every shoot at the winter pruning, rendering the formation of a tree, say twenty feet by twelve, the work of half a lifetime. But why a tree should be paralysed by having at least one-half of its annual growth cut away at the winter pruning is a mystery to many, the more so as trees well furnished with ripe wood are capable of fulfilling all the conditions that the most fastidious can desire. As the restrictive or repressive mode of pruning simply means shorten- ing every young shoot back to a wood-bud, the Fig. 17.—The Two Systems. diagram, Fig. 16, will convey all that it is needful to say for or against the system. It must not, how- ever, be inferred by the uninitiated that the quality or size of the fruit is deteriorated, as this is not the case. It is the useless loss of time in covering the allotted space, and as a consequence the unnecessary sacrifice of a quantity of Peaches, that is at fault. In Fig. 16, “d and e¢ represent fruit-bearing shoots, which, unless they are leaders, would be cut away after the Peaches are gathered to make room for the successions ¢d and e;” but why the latter should be shortened back to one-third their length, more or less, according to the position of a wood or triple bud, modern pruners are at a loss to understand. In Fig. 17, the branch @ has produced two mode- rately strong shoots, each of them capable of bear ing fruit. The extension pruner would leave them intact: the restriction pruner will shorten one back to a wood-bud at a, and cut the other away at c, leaving three clusters of flower-buds to bear fruit, and two wood-buds, that at 5 to produce a shoot for extension. Seymour’s System. — Then, again, there is Seymour’s system, which, hke the many forms in favour with the French, leads by a most complicated mode of cutting and training to the formation of handsome geome- trical trees, more remarkable for their appearance than their fruit. Seymour’s system necessitates having a vertical leader from which all the side shoots start with mathematical precision, as in Fig. 18. Every bud is rubbed off the lower sides of these shoots, and the bearing wood is laid in from the upper sides. All goes well until accident or gumming causes one or more of the main shoots, or it may be a portion of the leader, to die off, and the tree is no longer pleasing to look upon. Should any reader wish to adopt this tedious system, he must commence with a maiden tree, cut it down to three eyes, train up a leader and one side shoot each way. The follow- ing year the leader must be again shortened to three eyes, when a second pair of side shoots will be trained nine inches above the first pair, and so on until the wall or trellis is covered, if such a remote event is ever accomplished. When the first pair of 112 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. side shoots is ready for disbudding, all on the lower sides are rubbed off, and the others are thinned out; those left are nailed or tied in during the summer, but the following season they are tied down to the mImain branches, where they are supposed to bear fruit, when they are cut out to make room for young growths which originated in wood-buds at the base of each. When the fruit begins to swell, the ter- minal as well as the lateral breaks are kept pinched so as to give the young wood and foliage light and warmth. Indeed, the system of managing the fruit- ing and succession wood is very similar to that re- commended for Cordons, only all the young growths are here on the upper sides of the oblique shoots or branches. Co rd on AMUSO ay ibicyshaay ep Peaches are often trained as single and double, ver- root-space should be limited, as the system is the re- verse of that now generally adopted, and the borders should be composed of sound, friable, calcareous, but not over-rich materials, which will favour the for- mation of an abundance of fibrous roots and flower- buds. Manure will not be needed until the trees begin to bear, when it may be applied as a top- dressing or mulching. If carefully planted and well watered, a few weeks will suffice for the formation of fresh roots, when all the side shoots must be cut back to a single bud, and a small piece may be taken off the tip of the leader when perfect matura- tion is doubtiul, otherwise the leaders can be left the whole length, when the terminal bud will continue the growth until the allotted space is covered. The next operation will be the re- gular pinching of side shoots, when tical or oblique, also as horizontal - : Cordons, either ile for growing under glass or against walls. The single Cordon (Fig. 9), answers well for Special purposes. It is formed by allowing a maiden tree to escape the knife, and the leader is trained on in an oblique or vertical form without bemg pinched or shortened, so long as plenty of side shoots or laterals can be ob- tained, until it has attained the required height. All side shoots are pinched at the fifth or sixth leaf, and re-pinched to induce the formation of flower-buds from which fruit can be taken in the second year. Trees of this kind are not long-lived ; but they are well adapted for giving a little fruit before per- manent trees come into bearing. They also offer facilities for testing a number of varieties within a limited space, and on this account are interesting to amateurs and others who wish to make themselves thoroughly acquainted with the numerous kinds now under cultivation. If it is intended to cover a given space with Cor- dons in the shortest possible time, a sufficient nuniber of clean, strong, evenly-grown maidens should be selected, and planted two feet apart where they are to remain. Autumn is the best time to plant, either before or immediately after the leaves fall. The Fig. 19.- Cordon Training. they have grown, say, six inches. Those nearest the top of the tree generally start first, and on this account they should be pinched first to throw the sap into the buds nearest the base of the shoot. When these have been stopped all growths must be tied in to the trellis or wall, taking care they are not so close to each other as to prevent the proper development of the buds and foliage. If the young leaders do not show a disposition to furnish plenty of side shoots for future pinching, they may be stopped when they have made eighteen to twenty-four inches of growth, to strengthen and burst the back buds, when they will start fresh leaders and grow on again, to be again stopped if necessary. If the compost is not too rich, the side growths at the end of the season will con- sist of rather strong shoots, plentifully furnished with wood-buds, and weaker growths studded with flower-buds, with a wood-bud at the base and another at the point. These must be left full length, as the removal of the point-bud would cause the shoot to die back to the base-bud, and the crop of fruit would be sacrificed to false pruning. The stronger shoots. not so plentifully set with flower-buds, unless they are wanted to furnish a perfect specimen, must, how- ever, be cut back to the lowest leaf-buds for giving i 2 THE PEACH AND NECTARINE UNDER GLASS. the next year’s supply of bearing wood. When in the second year the fruit is thinned and swelling freely, the points must be pinched out of all the bearing shoots, and those started from the base re- eularly laid in and again stopped, when they have made six inches of growth, to induce the formation of a successional relay of fruit-bearing wood. As this will require all the light and air that can be given to it, the bearing wood must be cut out as soon as the fruit is gathered; but the shortening of stronger shoots to a single leaf-bud must be deferred until the winter pruning. Although trees trained and manipulated in this way produce plenty of fruit, the roots in course of time get too strong and powerful for the limited area of the heads. To counteract this and keep them within bounds, full- sized trees can be lifted with good balls as soon as the foliage is ripe, and after having all the strongest shoots shortened with a sharp kmife, they can be re-planted into a little fresh loam without endanger- ing the succeeding year’s crop of fruit. Horizontal Cordons are formed by heading back a maiden tree and training two shoots in opposite directions along a trellis wire (Fig. 19), but they are of little use in an ordinary Peach-house, and will not be again referred to. In the Orchard-house they are more useful, and have been noticed. ‘Root-pruning (see also Root-pruning of the Apple).—When young trees are planted in rich borders and trellis-room is limited, they sometimes require partial lifting to throw them into a fruit- ful state. The best time todo this is as soon as the foliage is ripe and ready to part from the nodes where the fruit and wood buds are properly formed, and not likely to shrink or shrivel after the roots have been disturbed. It is not, however, a good plan to be constantly checking and disturbing the roots if it can be avoided, as the fruit the following year is never so fine, and unless very carefully per- formed, the trees, whose head-room is not increased, in the course of a year or two again become gross and unmanageable. To avoid having to lift the trees, sound, rather tenacious, resisting loam, free from all kinds of animal manure, should be used, as _has been advised for making the borders at the outset; the latter should be made piecemeal, well _ drained, and not too large or deep. Moreover, they should be inside the house, where the roots as well _ as the wood will get thoroughly ripe before the leaves fall. With these precautions as a guide, combined with judicious cropping and the persistent pinching of gross shoots through the summer, the violent measures we sometimes see resorted to can often be commuted to a moderate check which will answer the purpose. 80 113 When root-lifting has been decided upon, like all other operations of a similar nature, it should be performed quickly. Take out with spades and steel forks a trench round the extremity of the roots and quite down to the turf on the drainage; then with the greatest care work steadily inwards towards the stem of the tree, saving all the tender roots and fibres as they are found in the soil. When the strong roots, which have been the cause of the trees becoming too robust, have been found, most likely working in the drainage, raise them carefully, pre- serving ali the fibres, and place them on the top of the ball, where they can be kept moist and shaded. Then correct the drainage and stratum of turf, and return a portion of the compost into the trench, beat it firmly and evenly, and spread a little fresh loam over it as a bed for the roots. Cut the points off them as they are relaid but do not reduce them, as lifting alone will produce the required check. Re- place a thin stratum of the old soil with a little more of the new loam, beat it firmly, and flood the trench with pure water. Syringe the foliage if it flags, and defer filling up the trench for a day or two, or until the recently watered soil has become firm. When Peach-trees are root-lifted before they lose their leaves, it is wonderful how quickly they commence making new roots in the yet warm, moist soil, and how kindly they break into growth in spring, when as a rule every blossom opens and sets perfectly. Extension-trained trees rarely require root-lifting, as the broad expanse of wood and foliage keeps pace with and properly balances the roots. Neither are trees in elevated, and as a consequence naturally warm borders, or borders which are confined within certain limits, likely to grow too strong. What the Peach enjoys is a well-drained, firm loam, through which an abundance of small fibrous roots will work their way to the undisturbed surface in search of food, supplied in the form of mulching or diluted liquid. When planted in light, yielding soil, a few strong roots run away beyond their limited space or into the subsoil, from which they force up crude sap late in the season; but being sparely furnished with active spongioles, the fruit frequently ripens off when it ought to be commencing the last swelling. RENOVATING. In course of time old trees become weak, and although they may blossom freely and set plenty of fruit, it decreases in size and quality. If the borders are examined, it will be found that the compost has become inert, heavy, and impervious to the influence of sun and air, and that the young roots made in summer, owing to coldness and sour- ness of the soil, perish in winter. Some twelve to 114 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. eighteen inches down in the border, the loam, at one time good, may still be better than that near the surface, and the main roots may be in a satisfactory state but destitute of fibres. If manure as a mulch- ing would correct this evil, the quantity always present would go far to prove that it ought never to have found its way into existence, but manure only ageravates it. There are two ways of dealing with trees when they get into this condition. The first remedy or mode of renovation adopted by many Peach-growers is neither difficult to explain nor perform. It is simply the removal of all the surface soil from the border quite down to the roots, care being observed that the latter are not injured in the operation, otherwise they will throw up numerous suckers. The roots are then still further exposed by working round the strongest with a hand-fork, and cutting away any parts that are dead or gouty. The whole of the space so cleared is then filled up with good compost similar to that used for making new borders, and the work is complete. Roots very soon find their way upwards into this compost (it is surprising how roots will travel a considerable distance, ap- parently out of their way, to get into new soil), and the trees very quickly put on an improved appear- ance; but the alteration may not be without alloy, as some deeply-seated root may still prove trouble- some when the fruit is setting, and again when it is ripening. The other remedy is an extended or elaborate mode of root-lifting, not root-pruning, as every root and fibre must be saved intact and re-laid in new compost. The best way to do this is to commence with steel forks at some distance beyond the radius of the roots and, after working out a deep trench, gradually and carefully remove the soil in the direction of the bole of the tree. When all the worst soil has been removed and the subsoil roots have been raised or cut through, then the work of making up again must be commenced. After correcting the concrete and drainage, trim ali the mutilated roots with a sharp knife, raise the points as near the surface as they will come without crack- ing, then, with the hands and a short rammer, pack up every hole and cranny with good turfy compost containing plenty of old lime rubble. Having got away from the ball, make up the bed and re-lay the roots all over its surface, cover lightly, and water as before. When very old trees have not been disturbed for a number of years, the complete renovation of the borders may, and most likely will, produce a check and a shock from which it will take them some time to recover. To steer clear of this dilemma, the work may be performed piecemeal, that is, one side of the tree can be root-lifted one year, and the other in the year following. No shock will then be felt, neither will there be any danger of losing a crop of fruit. FORCING. Time to Commence.—This must of course be regulated by the period at which the earliest fruit is expected to be ripe, five or six months being allowed from the time the house is closed for forcing. Some skilful growers, having every convenience at their disposal, including a number of houses or com- partments, succeed in ripening Peaches in April; but beyond the fact that they are Peaches, it is doubt- ful if they are of much value. Others do not attempt to have their fruit before the 20th of May: And the period over which this early forcing extends very nearly reverses the season of the tree’s growth in this country. To have them in April, it is not good management to attempt forcing permanently planted houses like Figs. 1 and 2. It is better to defer starting these until December and January, and trust to very early kinds established in pots or raised borders, to which gentle heat can be applied, for a few dishes to commence with. Many of the very early kinds, not mentioned in the preceding lists, because extreme earliness is their chief recom- mendation, answer best for this purpose; but as they have been fully treated upon and discussed in the treatise on Orchard-houses, pot culture will not require further comment here. Assuming then that the lean-to Peach-house is planted with Abec, Hale’s Early, and Early Grosse Mignonne Peaches, Lord Napier and Elruge Nectarines, from which fruit is to be gathered before the end of May, it should be closed on the 1st of December. To keep up the supply the second house (Fig. 2), planted with the same kinds and perhaps one or two of the varieties mentioned in the mid-season selection, should be closed on the Ist of January. A third house, either a lean-to or a span-roof, containing the cream of the mid-season Peaches and Nectarines, about the begin- ning of February, when the late and latest houses, which have been retarded by abundant ventilation all the winter, will follow in the order of flowering through March and the early part of April. When the month of December proves severe or very dark and unpropitious, the early house does not make so much progress during the first few weeks as the second house does; but, being planted with good early kinds, the fruit can be carried rapidly through the last stages of its growth quite up to the finish. It is not, however, a wise course to pursue if hard forcing can be avoided, as the finest and best-flavoured Peaches are always obtained from trees to which plenty of time can be given ; indeed, the THE PEACH AND NECTARINE UNDER GLASS. 118 successful forcing of all kinds of stone-fruit depends upon the way in which they are started and carried through every stage, until the most critical one of all, that of stoning, is complete. | Old-established trees, to which early forcing has become a part of their nature, stand it better than young ones, and in course of time burst into flower with a modicum of warmth that would not affect others that have never been forced. This condition is of course the result of many years’ good and patient management, and proves to the young beginner how important it is to proceed step by step until the object he has in view is attained. No one thinks of suddenly changing the routine of a set of Peach-houses by starting the late house first, and the early house last. Neither does an experienced forcer distress a set of young trees by shutting them up for the first time in ’ November, a period of rest being absolutely neces- sary. But provided he has plenty of houses in the best possible condition for succession, he would commence the first season towards the end of December, in the second year two or three weeks earlier, and so on until by degrees the trees would lose their leaves early and go to rest, while late houses were yet carrying fruit. Where not more than two or perhaps three Peach- houses exist in a private place, very early forcing is by no means advisable, as the first crop would be obtained at great expense and risk, and the other one or two houses would not keep up the supply until trees on open walls cameinto use. Under such conditions the first day of January and the middle of February would be early enough for the first and second houses, and the last might be allowed to come on quietly with full air and no more fire-heat than would be needed for keeping out frost. Preparation of the Trees and House.— Having pointed out the danger of undue haste in forcing the Peach, we will now refer to the different operations and conditions which must be performed and observed in its management from the time the house is closed until the fruit is ripe, gathered, and disposed of. The first house being considered fit for forcing in December, preparations should not be delayed beyond the middle of October: three weeks earlier will do equally well if the trees are leafless and at rest, if Peaches ever do rest. If the house has been stripped for a few weeks for the twofold purpose of refreshing the trees and borders with rain and dew, and getting the lights painted, see about having them put back in their places: but om no account shut the house up, otherwise, the weather being warm through the day, some of the flower-buds may begin to swell. Loosen all the _ shoots from the trellis and perform the necessary pruning, be the mode of training extension or restrictive. Tf the first, a careful clearance of old fruit-stalks and unsatisfactory pieces that were missed at the time the fruit-bearing wood was cut away will make up the sum-total of pruning. ‘Then wash all the woodwork of the house and trellis with strong soapy water, and paint if necessary. Also wash the trees with lukewarm soapy water, using a rather hard brush for scrubbing the old wood, and a softer and smaller one for the young shoots. If the trees have been free from spider and scale, the wash may be made by whipping two ounces of soft-soap in a gallon of water ; but these pests having been trouble- some, it can be used double the strength; or four ounces of Gishurst compound, thoroughly dissolved in the same quantity of water (one gallon), will be found satisfactory. When washing the young wood, be careful to draw the brush upwards with the buds and never against them, as they are easily injured. Carefully wash every bit of the young and old wood, and repeat the washing wherever insects may have gained a lodgment. If dressing of any kind is in favour, apply it as soon as the trees are dry, but on no account use it strong, as many trees are much injured by the dressing, not unfrequently after they have been made perfectly clean by the simple process of cleansing with soap and water. Many people now object to painting every bit of wood, and so hermetically sealing the pores in the bark, and securing the larvee of insects against injury until the time arrives for them to develop into life, when the trees are again started into growth. If a tree is clean, leave well alone; if it is not clean, wash the young wood over and over again, and confine the painting to the old shoots and branches, using six ounces of Gishurst compound dissolved in a gallon of water, to which a little strong finely-sifted loam may be added to give it the consistency of paint. If Gishurst is objected to, the good old recipe: soft-soap, four ounces; sulphur, eight ounces; and tobacco-water, one pint,may be used. Thoroughly dissolve the soap, and work the sulphur into a paste ; put them together, add four quarts of water, anda little fine soil and cow-dung to give the mixture the body of paint. When all the trees are cleansed sling them to the trellis until they are quite dry and fit for tying-in. In the meantime wash the walls with quicklime and sulphur, and keep the house well ventilated. Tying-in is an operation that can be performed at any time before the house is closed for forcing. The main branches should be placed in position, loosely at first, and altered as may be found needful, until a pleasing and symmetrical framework has been secured. Then with stout string tie each branch to 116 the trellis, and proceed with the arrangement of the minor shoots. As every branch and shoot starts from one centre, the minor growths should run nearly parallel with each other, but in such a way as to increase the distance between them as they extend from the centre, or there will be confusion when the next set of laterals is laid in. Avoid tying tightly, particularly in young trees, and never attempt to draw a crooked shoot straight by tying a piece of matting round the point and then tightening it to the next wire ahead. ‘This is often done; but it is a bad practice, as the point of the yearling shoot thickens during the summer, and the tie cuts it nearly through, or rather, prevents it from swelling when the sap begins to descend, Some Peach-growers prefer laying in the leaders, and leaving all the fruit-bearing wood loose until the blossoms are nearly open, asserting as their reason that the sap flows through loose shoots with more freedom. There can be no doubt as to the soundness of this view ; but where a great number of houses require attention it is not always con- venient to do this work piecemeal. Whenever the young wood is tied in, whether before or after the flowers open, one thing should always have atten- tion, and that is, their arrangement in sucha way that their foliage will shade the older shoots and branches. If practicable, it is a good plan to tie young wood quite on the top of old branches for this purpose, as many fine limbs go off quite sud- denly in hot summers ; and no wonder when we con- sider what they endure, with every leaf and shoot spread out on a trellis to the full blaze of the sun within twenty inches of a fiery glass roof, and with every square foot of trellis carrying a Peach, all to be supphed with moisture through these bare old stems, while the root-supply of water is sometimes administered with a niggardly hand. Preparation of the Borders.—Assuming that trees in early houses have good internal borders, and that the external arrangement is limited to a few feet of compost, it will be necessary to do all that can be done for the hard-worked and often badly-treated roots, at least once a year. Where any root-lifting or rearrangement takes place at the fall of the leaf, all top-dressing is generally done at that time ; but if nothing of the kind is needed, then about the same time all surface dressings, con- sisting of inert or washed-out manure, should be removed quite down to the border. If the latter has become heavy and pasty, and the trees are old, an inch or two taken away from the surface and re- placed with sweet calcareous loam and old lime rubble will stimulate the surface fibres into the formation of new spongioles before the house is CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. closed for forcing. Some defer top-dressing until after the trees are tied in; but the best time to replace the old with new is immediately after the crop is gathered. Shortly before the house is closed, a quantity of fresh fermenting leaves, laid in a ridge along the centre or front of the borders, will give off moisture, and facilitate the swelling of the buds in mild weather without the aid of much fire- heat. External borders, it is scarcely necessary to say, should be well covered with dry leaves or litter, and protected from cold, rain, and snow by tarpaulin, or, best of all, sheets of corrugated iron. This material is now coming largely into use, and may be considered one of the indispensables, where early forcing is carried on, as it is cheap, durable, and easily stowed away in small compass when not wanted over the borders. Temperature.—One of the great secrets of success in forcing first-class Peaches is bound up in the word “ patience.” An easily-excited tree which naturally flowers early can be brought on quickly, but with what result ? The embryo flowers existing within their hoary coverings are excited too fast at first, when they either drop off or open in an im- perfect form, and are incapable of performing their functions. Sometimes all the parts of the flowers are present, but weak, and the anthers are destitute of pollen, without which fertilisation is impossible. To avoid this dilemma, time must be given to the trees through the early stages, by starting them at a low temperature, by coaxing them forward on bright days with gentle fire-heat and ventilation, and allowing them to rest at night. The flowers will then keep in advance of the wood-buds, which is not always the case, particularly in young trees, when they are brought on in too high a temperature. During the first fortnight after the early house is closed, no more fire-heat should be given than will be necessary to prevent the temperature from falling below 45° at night. In mild weather, it will range much higher with ventilation; and when very cold, a few degrees lower will be preferable. When the house has been shut up about fourteen days, and fermenting Oak-leaves have been placed in a ridge along the border, warm the pipes every morning, always with a little air on the ventilators, to raise it to 55° or 60° under the influence of gleams of sun- shine. Shut it off in the afternoon, and let it again descend to 45° on cold nights, and 50° when the external air is soft and mild. When the buds begin to swell freely, apply just enough fire-heat to maintain a steady minimum of 45° to 50°, and a maximum of 55° to 60°, always with a chink of air on the top and bottom ventilators, and let external conditions be the guide in departing from these HOT-HOUSE OR STOVE PLANTS. 117 figures. Many Peach-growers do not think it necessary to give air through the early stages; but buds as well as leaves are always strengthened by having a circulation, and although progress may not be quite so rapid at first, the result in the end is always satisfactory. Therefore, in order to secure a vigorous bloom that will set well, always force with a circulation of air. When the blossoms begin to _ open freely, 50° at night and 60° by day may be taken as the mean until the fruit is set; but the amateur need not be afraid of allowing the house to fall as low as 40° by daylight in severe weather, as Peaches will and do frequently set well when the mercury sometimes almost touches the freezing point. This close sailing is not however advisable, if it can be avoided; but for the benefit of those who have not had much experience in the matter, it may not be out of place to make this point as clear as pos- sible by assuring them that low night-heats will do no harm. On the other hand, warmth from fermenting materials combined with sun-heat sufficient to raise the house to 70° will be beneficial during the time the trees are in flower, as it ripens the pollen and sets it at liberty in bright golden showers when the air is warm and buoyant. Aiter the fruit is set, renovate the fermenting material to counteract the drying influence of the hot-water pipes, and let the external temperature be the guide in the maintenance of the internal heat, allowing it to range from 56° to 60° at night, and 10° higher through fine days. In this way giving and taking, as the elements are favourable or the reverse, carry the fruit up to the stoning process. When this period arrives, the fruit, to all external appearance, will come to a dead stand; but so long as it does not turn yellow and fall off, there will be no occasion for alarm, as the trees are undergoing a hard and trying strain in supplying the calcareous matter so essential to the formation of the stones. As the stoning process will keep the fruit for some four or five weeks at a given size, a steady day and night temperature at or about the last -named figures will give the trees and the fruit plenty of time to go through their work; they will then begin to move, and move rapidly through the next swelling. Then, and not till then, time must be caught up, which was apparently lost through the early stages, by running up to 74° or 80° after the house is closed with sun-heat. But unless time is a very important object, hard forcing should be discountenanced, as the largest and best-flavoured Peaches are invariably gathered from trees that can have rest by night and moderate forcing through the day. From these remarks it must not be inferred that a higher temperature would be fatal, as Peaches in pots are - sometimes ripened off in Pine-stoves, but the fruit from trees so managed is inferior in flavour. More- over, while ripening off acrop of Peaches, another set of firm, short-jointed shoots must be secured for the succeeding year, otherwise the increasing earli- ness whichis to be observed in starting the trees in succeeding seasons will soon come to an end, as it is of no use trying to start a house in November unless the wood is in a satisfactory condition. It is hardly necessary to say that a house started one year in December, will more readily respond to the same heats in the following year, although it may be closed a little earlier ; while houses that are started later, say in January and February, when forcing is no longer dead against nature, and solar heat and light are in the ascendant, will stand an all- round rise of five degrees with impunity. Late houses that are allowed to break naturally or with gentle excitement by closing in the afternoon, do not really require fire-heat at all, unless the nights are frosty or the atmosphere is thick, cold, and laden with moisture, when gentle warmth from the pipes is of the greatest service, not only for keeping out the damp air, but also for ripening the pollen and keeping the petals dry when the trees are in flower. With the exception of this short period, fire-heat, until the wood requires ripening, is not absolutely necessary for the production of the finest Peaches that an English grower can obtain. The latest houses, as well as wall-cases from which very late crops are required, do not receive winter firing unless the weather is unusually severe, and there is danger of the buds, which may have got a little forward, being killed. At all other times, by night and day these structures are kept fully venti- lated, and as cool as possible, to retard the flowers. When the flowers open, a little heat may be needed to keep the petals dry and set the pollen at liberty, otherwise shy kinds like Walburton Late Admirable do not always set well. After the fruit is set ex- treme ventilation is again resorted to and fire-heat is dispensed with, until it is again wanted in the autumn to ripen up the wood. HOT-HOUSE OR STOVE PLANTS. By Witi1am HucH Gower. Mackaya.—Acanthaceous plants of great beauty. The name commemorates Dr. Mackay, the author of the ‘‘ Flora Hibernica ;” it is unfortunate, however, that there is another genus Mackaya, in the order Loasacee, with which this must not be confounded. Pot in peat andloam. Intermediate House. M. belia.—A handsome shrubby plant, with long, slender branches ; leaves three to four inches long, 118 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. ovate-acuminate, roughly toothed, and dark green; racemes many-flowered, flowers campanulate, deli- cate mauve, prettily netted with purple veins. Spring months. Natal. Macrozamia.—This is a handsome genus of Australian Cycads, some of which attain great heights. Mr. Hill, of Brisbane, says: ‘‘ The Macro- zamias generally grow on open forest lands, among various species of Eucalyptus, Acacias, &¢., none of which afiord them much shade, and the soil in such situations is usually sandy or stony, and not rich.” Soil and treatment same as Cycas. M. corallipes—Stem somewhat spherical, stout; leaves diverging at the base, pinnate; leaflets long and narrow, very deep green, the foot-stalks reddish- brown. A very handsome plant. New South Wales. M. cylindrica.—Stem with a long narrow neck, leaves pinnate, with long, coriaceous, shining dark green leaflets, with an ivory-white petiole. Queens- land. Mamillaria.—A genus of Cactacee, mostly of small growth, but to the lovers of this order, ex- tremely beautiful; they are more or less globose, oblong, or cylindrical, and seldom exceed eighteen inches in height. They are distinguished by their stems being covered with small tubercles of a teat- like form, bearing upon their summit a tuft of spines of a yellow, white, or red colour, and some authorities have divided them into sections accord- ing to the colour of their spines. The name comes from mamilla, ‘‘a teat,’ and they are sometimes called Beef-steak Plants, because the fruits have a flavour resembling fried beef. The flowers of Ma- millarias are produced from near the summit, and may be called fairly showy, the chief colours being red, white, yellow, and pink, with various interme- diate shades. Each lasts several days, but closes every night, to open again in full beauty the follow- ing morning; for treatment, see Cereus; and in the plate of a group of Succulent Plants may be seen examples of this genus. The following list comprises some of the most beautiful forms in cultivation :— M. acanthophlegma. M. nobilis. M. angularis. M. Parkinsonii. M. bicolor. M. Peacockii. M. carinifera. M. Pfeifferii. M. cirrifera. M. Phymatothele. M. clava. M. Polia. M. conopsea. M. polyedra. MM. coronaria. M. pusilla. M. crucifera. M. rhodanthe. M. densa. M. Scheidiana. M. echinata. M. Schlectendalii. M. elephantidens. M. senilis. 2 M. erecta. M. spinosissima. M. Fischerii. M. stella aurata. M. longimamma. M. straminea. M. melalenca, M. turbinata. M. minima. } M. verruculata. M. nivea. | ‘Mf Wildiana. Manettia.—A small genus of climbing plants belonging to the Cinchonads; they are handsome plants, easily grown, and when in flower last long in full beauty. Pot in peat, leaf-mould, loam, and sand, in about equal parts. Stove. M. cordifolia.—Leaves ovate, cordate at the base, slightly hairy, and dark green; flowers tubular, upwards of an inch long, brilliant scarlet. Summer months. Brazil. M. micans.—Like the preceding, this is a twining plant; it has large, ovate-lanceolate, dark green leaves; and long, tubular, orange-scarlet flowers. Summer months. Peru. Maranta.—This is a beautiful genus of orna- mental-leaved plants, giving its name to the order. Several species, as arundinacea, nobilis, ramosissima, are cultivated largely for the starch which is ob- tained from their tubers, and comes into the market by the name of Arrowroot, which name would ap- pear to come from the native Indians using the roots to heal the wounds received from poisoned arrows. Marantas are splendid ornaments in the stove, de- lighting in strong heat and an abundance of mois- ture. Pot in peat and loam, with a little sand added, drain well and water freely. Stove. M. fasciata—leaves broadly side of the midrib with heart - shaped; ground - oblong blotches of heavy colour deep green, broadly green; reverse side rosy- banded with white from red. South America. midrib to the margin; M. Massangeana — leaves reverse side pale green, shaded purple. Brazil. M. hieroglyphica—a dwarf species, with obovate leaves; ground-colourdeep | green, suffused with eme- rald-green, streaked with bars of metallic - white, reddish - purple beneath. New Grenada. M. illustris—leaves ovate ; bright green, striped with transverse bands of dark green, the midrib white, tinged with pink; the middle of the blade is traversed from base to apex with two wavy bands of white; reverse side deep purple. Ecuador. M. Leopardina—leaves pale yellowish-green, regularly marked on each side of the midrib with oblong blotches of deep green. Brazil. M. Lindenii—leaves oblong; ground-colour deep green, regularly marked with blotches of pale green on each side of the midrib; reverse side rosy-purple, the marking of the upper side showing through. Peru. M. Makoyana—a dwarf spe- cies with ovate leaves; ground-colour deep olive- green, blotched with creamy-yellow, and regu- larly marked on each . broadly-oblong; ground- colour pale green, regu- larly marked between midrib and margin with blotches of greenish-pur- ple. Garden variety. M. nitens—a small plant having ovate - acuminate leaves of a bright shining light green, marked ou each side the midrib with oblong blotches of deep green. Brazil. M. pardina—leaves ovate, yellowish-green, blotched on each side the midrib with chocolate. Magda- lena, New Grenada. M. Porteana—leaves oblong- acuminate : ground-colour a bright shining green, transversely barred with white ; reverse side rich purple. Brazil. M. rosea - lineata — leaves broadly-ovate, and deep, rich, shining green, trans- versely streaked with oblique lines of bright rose; reverse side port wine colour. S. America, M. rosea-picta—leaves or- bicular, and deep shining green, marked with a band of bright rose run- ning round midway be- tween the margin and costa ; the latter also deep rose. Amazon valley. M. splendida — leaves ob- long-lanceolate, and rich HOT-HOUSE OR STOVE PLANTS. olive-green, blotched with blotches of yellowish- pale yellowish - green. green and white; the re- Para. verse side is of a vinous- M. Veitchii —leaves ovate- purple colour, showing elliptic, deep olive-green the markings of the upper side. Western Tro- and shining, variegated : pical America. with half-moon - shaped Medinilla.—A genus of Melastomads, containing many species of great beauty. They are all natives of the islands of the Indian Ocean, and enjoy a high temperature and moist atmosphere. Pot in fibrous loam and turfy peat, with some sharp sand added. Stove. M. amabilis—a species with dark green opposite leaves, producing in abundance erect racemes of rosy-pink flowers. Summer months. Java. M. magnifica—a bold-grow- ing species having large, opposite, broadly-ovate leaves, and immense pen- dulous racemes of rosy- pink fiowers. Spring and ,early summer. Java. M. Sieboldii—this species is less showy than either :of the preceding, but as it blooms through the dull 1aonths, it is specially valuable; leaves opposite, oblong, and somewhat fleshy; racemes erect, flowers white, with purple stamens. Winter months. Java. Mimosa. — A very large genus of Leguimi- nose, the name coming from mimos, “‘a mimic,” from the extreme sensi- tiveness of the leaves, in many of the species re- sembling somewhat that of animals. They are plants of easy culture, and should be grown in sandy loam, peat, and leaf- mould. Stove. M. pudica.—The whole of the species exhibit a fine illustration of the sleep of plants, as the leaves fold up at night, but the species here quoted (some- times but erroneously named M. sensitiva) is re- markable for its peculiar sensitiveness, its leaflets and leaves shrinking from the slightest touch; it is a somewhat dwarf plant of branching habit, having strong prickles upon its stem. Leaves digitate, bearing numerous pinnate, bright green leaflets. Brazil. Monstera.—A genus of Arads, most of which are climbers ; they are of bold growth, with thick and leathery leaves, and are sufficiently hardy to live in a green-house during the summer months, or MaRANTA ROSEA-PICTA- 119 even to form ornaments in the sub-tropical garden. Pot in peat and loam, in equal parts, giving abun- dance of water. Stove. M. deliciosa, so called on account of its large and luscious fruit, which has the flavour of the Pine, Melon, and Peach combined. Leaves large and rich deep green, having perforations in them as if cut out with scissors or knife. Mexico. Musa.—tThis genus gives its name to the order Musacee, and contains many bold and _ hand- some-leaved kinds as well as some with beau- tiful flowers. Smith says: “They are of great im- portance, producing food for millions of people,’ and that the area re- quired to yield 33 Ibs. of Wheat, or 99 Ibs. of Potatoes, would pro- duce 4,400 lbs. of Plan- tains. The Plantain, IW. para- disiaca, and the Banana, MM. sapientum, have been cultivated from time immemorial, and the varieties produced are as numerous as those of the Apple. Pot in rich loam, and water abun- dantly. Musas enjoy a high temperature and moist atmosphere, there- fore must be kept in the stove. and four feet wide; these are bright green, the stout midrib at the back being vivid crimson, and the stem very stout; fruits not edible. Abyssinia. M. rosacea—resembles coc- cinea, but the flowers are beautiful soft rosy-pink. Mauritius. M. sapientum and its va- rieties produce the lus- cious fruits known as Bananas, which are eaten in a fresh state when ripe, whilst the fruits of M. paradisiaca, the Plan- tain, are usually gathered in an unripe state and roasted. M. sapientum is a bold-growirg plant some fifteen or twenty feet high, bearing enormous bunches of pendent fruits weighing upwards of sixty pounds. Tropics. M. textilis—a tall-growing: plant which is very orna- M. Chinensis—a dwarf spe- cies seldom exceeding five or six feet in height, with deep green oblong leaves some three feet in length and two feet in breadth ; it is extremely valuable as being not only ornamen- tal, but very fruitful in a somewhat low stove tem- perature. This plant is found in collections under the names of M. Caven- dishii and M. Sinensis. China. M. coccinea—a slender spe- cies, attaining a height of ‘about four feet, bearing a terminal inflorescence ; flowers yellow, spathes rich scarlet, tipped with yellow. Summer months. Cochin China. M. ensete—the gigantic Ba- nana of Bruce; it bears Jeaves (when fully deve- loped) some twenty feet long, and between three 120 mental, but its fruits are notedible. From its stems comes the fibre called Manilla Hemp, used in shaw]-making,tor cordage, CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. larly striped and blotched with white and pale green; fruit not edible. Isle of St. Thomas, Western Tro- pical Africa. and even woven into false M. zebrina —a compara- tresses for the adornment tively dwarf and slender- of the ladies. Philippine stemmed species, with Islands. oblong dark green leaves, M. Uranoscopus—siwilar in irregularly striped and habit to M. ensete, but blotched with bronzy- bearing erect panicles of purple. East Indies. flowers and fruits. Queens- land. M. vittata—a tall plant with the habit of M. en- sete, the leaves being dark green, irregu- Myristica. —Beautiful stove shrubs, although not showy, and ex- ceedingly in- teresting as yielding the aromatic spices known as Nut- megs and Mace. The true or best Nutmegsare the produce of HM. moschata (some- times called JZ. officinalis), and are principally grown in Ma- lacca and Pe- nang, while in- ferior Nutmegs are the produce Napoleona.—A small family, with respect to which much diversity of opinion prevails amongst botanists. _By some they are made into a separate order under the name of Vapoleonce ; by others they are placed in Belvisiaceg, but popularly they are known as Mock Passion Flowers. They are hand- some shrubs, enjoying a strong moist heat. Pot in two parts of loam, one of peat, and one of sharp sand; drain well and water freely. Stove. NV. imperialis. —This is a me- ‘dium - sized bush, with alter- nate dark green leaves, which are oblong, and leathery in tex- ture; flowers axillary, sessile, two or three together, some- what resem- bling a Passion Flower in shape —of a creamy buff - crimson colour. Summer months. West Africa. WNepenthes. —This genus constitutes the order Nepentha- cee; they are climbing plants with alternate of such species as I. fatua, sebi- fera, acuminata, &c. Pot in two parts of loam and one of peat, with some sharp sand added. ‘They enjoy a strong heat and moist atmosphere. M. moschata isa tree from twenty to thirty feet high, with large, oblong, dark green, aromatic leaves, and in a young state forms a handsome bush. The fruit is about the size of a green Walnut ; when ripe it bursts open, and discovers the seed, enclosed in a fleshy arillus of a beautiful crimson colour. This is the Mace of commerce, which, after being dried in the sun, changes to golden-yellow. The seed is the Nutmeg. This plant is largely cultivated in the Bunda Islands, and usually produces three crops in twelve months. MONSTERA DELICIOSA. leaves, having the apex sud- denly con- tracted into a long tendril, which terminates in a receptacle in the form of a jug or pitcher, that is furnished with a lid; this, when the pitcher is young, is her- metically sealed, but when mature opens more or less wide. This appendage, which is often beauti- fully coloured, and which is the chief ornament of the plants, has caused them to be popularly known as Pitcher Plants, of which many fallacious stories have been written. There are numerous species, most of them natives of the Indian Archipelago, some of which produce enormous jugs, besides which, many new varieties have been obtained by cross- breeding both in English and American gardens. HOT-HOUSE OR STOVE PLANTS. 121 ornamented in front with Indian a double - fringed wing; lid small; in the varie- ties picta and major the pitchers are pro- fusely blotched with cinnamon-brown. Islands. N. atrosanguinea—pitchers upwards of six inches long; reddish - crimson, sparingly spotted with Nepenthes are surface-rooting plants, and should be potted in rough fibrous peat and sphagnum moss; drain well and water freely, both from watering-can and syringe. They enjoy a strong heat and moist WW iiz—~ ———— — TS yy SV q Musa SAPIENTUM. atmosphere, but must not be exposed to the full in- fluence of the sun. Stove. N.albo-marginata—all these plants have broad-oblong leaves, therefore it will only be necessary to de- scribe the curious ascidia | or pitchers; reddish- green,bordered round the rim with white. Borneo. N. ampullacea — pitchers ovate, bright apple-green, yellow; wings broad and fringed. Garden variety. bicalearata — pitchers about six inches long, and nearly four inches across at the base, which is the widest part; pale crim- son, streaked with nu- | | | | 2 merous, parallel, oblique ridges; wings in front deeply fringed; at the base of the lid are two prominent, strong, spiny spurs. Borneo. N. coccinea — pitchers about; six .inches long, 122 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. narrow above; crimson, freckled with yellow; wings broad and fringed; throat green, speckled with red; the rim broad, beautifully striped with red and black; lid same colour. Garden variety. N. distillatoria—sometimes called Zeylanica ; pitchers about eight inches long; bright green; there is a variety with deep red pitchers, called rubra. Ceylon. N. Dominiana—pitchers cylindrical; sixinches long; deep green. Garden variety. N. Dormaniana—pitchers upwards of six inches long and nearly three across; deep crimson, mottled with greenish- yellow, lid blotched with red. Garden variety. N. Hookeriana — pitchers broadest at the base; as the plant begins to climb, however, the lower pitchers lengthen and be- come narrower, tapering to the base; colour deep green, marbled and streaked with reddish- brown. Sarawak. N. hybrida-maculata — pit- chers nine or ten inches long ; dark green, profuse- ly streaked with reddish- purple. Garden variety. N. lanata—pitchers upwards of ten inches long and four inches broad, clothed with short woolly hairs, witged and ciliate in front ; light green, with a broad - ribbed reddish - brown margin. Borneo. N. Lawvrenciana—pitchers somewhat obtuse, beauti- fully winged and fringed in front; ground-colour pale green, covered with deep crimson blotches. Garden variety. N. Outramiana — pitchers about five inches long; yellowish-green, profusely spotted with blood-red. Garden variety. N. phyllamphora—pitchers long and cylindrical, about ten inches long, destitute of wings in front; apple- green. Borneo. N. Rafflesiana—pitchers six to twelve inches long; a deep green, profusely mottled and spotted with red, winged and fringed in front. This, like N. Hookeriana, may be found with two forms of pit- chers. Borneo. N. Rajah—pitchers upwards of a foot long, and six in- ches in diameter ; fringed and winged in front, and capable of holding a quart of water. Borneo. N. Ratcliffiana — pitchers swollen at the base, nar- rowing upwards, winged and fringed in front; greenish- yellow, profusely mottled with bright red. Garden variety. N.robusta—pitchers swollen at the base, tapering upwards, winged and fringed in front; green, mottled with red- dish-brown. Garden variety. N. rubro-maculata—pitchers nearly six inches long; yel- lowish-green, spotted with vinous-red. Garden variety. N. sanguinea—pitchers cylindrical, but slightly swollen at the base, about a foot long, and nearly three inches in diameter; colour deep crimson. Borneo. N. Sedenii—pitchers freely produced; bright green, pro- fusely spotted and blotched with dark red. Garden variety- N. Williamsii—pitchers four to six inches long, winged and fringed in front; green, but nearly covered with motilings of blood-red. Garden variety. N. Wrigleyana — pitchers slightly swollen at the base; ground-colour pale green, profusely mottled with rich erimson, Garden variety. Tiltt NEPENTHES RAFFLESIANA, Nidularium.—A genus of Bromeliads, contain- ing many handsome species; their growth is rosu- late, and the sheathing base of their leaves closely imbricate, enabling them to hold water in the centre, which the plant enjoys. Peat and a little loam. There are other beautiful species besides those named here; amongst which we may name Morcen- ianumn, Scheremetiefi, Me- yendor fii, coriaceum, &c. N. Innocenti—plant stem- less, leaves strap-shaped, spreading and recurved ; edges armed with small teeth-like spines, upper side dark green, reddish- purple beneath; the glo- bose heads of bloom do not rise above the leaves ; flowers rich red, tinged with orange. Winter months. Brazil. N. Lawrentii—an elegant species, similar to the preceding in habit; leaves green, dotted with brown, passing into a greenish- white at the base; re- verse side a plain deep green ; flowers soft clear blue. Winter months, Brazil. N. spectabile—leaves broad- ly-ligulate, upwards of a foot in length, and nearly two inches in breadth, fringed on the edges’ with small teeth-like spines ; deep green above, grey be- low, transversely banded with scurfy white streaks; the ends of the leaves, nearly an inch down, are a deep reddish-crimson ; the flowers are a bluish- © violet; calyx very large, standing up amongst the flowers like blood-red bracts. Winter months. Brazil, Panax.—A genus of Avraliaceg, containing many handsome orna- mental-fohaged plants; indeed, some of the plants assigned to this family may be true Aralias; to this genus belongs the famous “Ginseng” (P. Schinseng) of the Chinese, the root of which was said to cure all ills that flesh is heir to. These plants form beautiful objects in the stove, and when young are admirably adapted for the decoration of the din- ner-table. Pot in a mixture of two parts of peat, one of loam, and a small portion of sand. Stove. P. dissectum—a much- P. elegans — leaves very branched plant, with pen- dent twice-divided leaves; leaflets cuneate and bi- lobed, toothed on the edges, and deep green finely divided, and dense rich deep green; a fine decorative species. P. excelsa — leaves com- pound ; leaflets much di- vided, and armed at the edges with white spiny teeth; upper side deep green, reverse much paler. P. laciniatum—leaves somewhat pendent and very broad, bipinnate; leaflets much divided and irregular in shape; bronzy-green. South Sea Islands. Pandanus. HOT-HOUSE OR STOVE PLANTS. P. plumata—leaves bipin- nate; the leaflets deeply divided, and the edges furnished with numerous teeth-like spines, which curve upwards, giving to the whole plant a very erispate appearance; co- lour deep green. South Sea Islands. Popularly known as Screw-pines, the leaves being arranged in a spiral manner, which, combined with their resemblance to those of the Pine-apple, has given rise to the name. All these plants are very ornamental in a young state. Pot in loam and sand, drain well, and water freely. P, elegantissimus — leaves narrow, one to three feet long; deep green on the upper side, paler beneath, armed at the edges and back of the midrib with sharp red spines, and suf- fused with a glaucous bloom. Mauritius. P. Javanicus variegatus— leaves two to six feet long, recurved; brilliant green, banded with white, armed at the edges and back of the midrib with sharp white spines. Java. P. ornatus— leaves broad, three to six inches long ; dark shining green onthe upper side, paler and glau- cous beneath, armed with white spines. Philippines. P. Pancherii—leaves long and narrow; deep green, covered with a glaucous bloom, and armed with white spines. New Cale- donia. Stove. P. utilis—this species is cultivated for its leaves, which are used for mak- ing sugar-bags, and after their arrival in this coun- try, are cut up and made into the baskets in which the city man carries home a choice bit of fish. Leaves broad, three to six feet long ; glaucous green, edges and back of midrib armed with red spines. Mauritius. P. Vandermeerschii — a miniature of the preced- ing; leaves narrow; dark green, glaucous at the base, aud armed with deep red spines. Masca- rene Islands. P. Veitchii—leaves broad and recurved; brilliant shining green, broadly margined with pure white, and armed with white spines. South Sea Is- lands. 123 will only be necessary to add here that the following species require the heat of the stove. P. alata—all the species here quoted are strong climbers, requiring con- considerable space to de- velop their beauties. Stems winged, leaves en- tire, heart-shaped; flowers large and fragrant, deep erimson, the rays being marked with green and rosy - purple. Summer months. Peru. P. amabilis—a _ profuse bloomer ; flowers bright scarlet, corona white. Summer months. P. Belottii—flowers soft pink and white. Summer and autumn months. Gar- den variety. P. Buonapartea — flowers large, red, white, and blue, and very handsome. Summer months. P.fulgens—flowers medium- sized and freely produced, brilliant scarlet. Summer months. Amazon valley. P. Hahnii—an abundant bloomer ; flowers medium- sized, creamy-white, co- rona yellow. Summer months. Mexico. P. kermesina—a most pro- fuse bloomer, flowers rich deep crimson, Summer months, P. macrocarpa —a strong grower ; flowers large, white and reddish - pur- ple; its fruits are edible, and weigh from six to eight pounds. Forests on the Rio Negro. P. princeps — flowers me- dium-sized, intense bright searlet. Summer and au- tumn months. Brazil. P. quadrangularis — the fruits of this species are edible, and are known by the name of ‘‘ Granadilla,”’ they are oblong, and weigh from three to four pounds; the flowers are Jarge and fragrant, white, red, and violet. Summer. Tropical America. Paullinia.—These plants belong to the Soap- berry family (Sapindacee) ; one species (PL. sorbilis) produces the cooling beverage called “ Guarana,” largely used by the Indians of the Amazon, and Brazilian miners; it is produced by the seeds, and is said to have the same properties as tea. Another species, P. Curassavica, produces the walking-canes known as “Supple Jacks.” sand. Stove. Pot in peat, loam, and P. Oceaniea.—A slender-growing plant, with alter- Parmentiera.—A genus belonging to the order Crescentiacee ; it contains but two species; the flowers are not conspicuous for beauty, but they are handsome foliage plants. Pot in loam and peat in equal parts, adding some sharp sand. Stove. P. cerevfera.—(the Candle Tree).—This plant at- tains a height of about twenty feet; the leaves are trifoliate and dark green, the fruits are cylindri- cal, some three feet or more long, and about one inch in diameter. Seemann says: “ The fruits have quite the appearance of yellow wax candles, and a person entering the forests composed of this tree almost fancies himself in a chandler’s shop, for from all the stems and older branches these fruits are suspended. They have a peculiar Apple-like smell, and are used for fattening cattle. The fruits of the only other species, P. edulis, are much relished by the Mexicans, and they are called ‘“ Quankhichotl.”’ Panama. Passiflora.—We have in the green-house sec- tion of this genus given details of soil, &c., and it nate pinnate leaves; leaflets variable in shape, toothed on the edges, and deep green. South Sea Islands. P. thalictrifolia.—Leaves much divided, resem- bling those of a Thalictrum, or Maiden-hair Fern, in a young state; these are bright rose, changing” with age to green. There is also a variegated form of this plant. South Sea Islands. Pavetta.—A genus of Cinchonacee, with trusses of white flowers in the way of Ixoras; the plant here quoted, however, is most remarkable for the beauty of its leaves. Pot in peat, loam, and sand, in equal parts. It delights ina strong moist heat, with full exposure to sun and light. Stove. P. Borbonica.—A beautiful shrub, with opposite, -oblong-lanceolate, acuminate leaves, some nine or ten inches long; deep olive-green in colour, marbled and freckled with emerald-green and white, midrib reddish-pink. Isle of Bourbon. Pavonia.—A Malvaceous genus, mostly consist- ing of small shrubs, some few species of which are: 124 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. showy ornaments in the plant-houses. Pot in sandy loam, drain well, and water freely. Stove. P. Makoyana.—A small erect shrub, with oblong- lanceolate coriaceous leaves; deep green; flowers in terminal racemes, calyx large, bright rosy-carmine, from which the dark purple corolla protrudes. Summer months. Brazil. P. multifiora. —This, like the preceding, is a pro- fuse bloomer; calyx brilliant red, fringed at the edges, corolla deep purple, stamens much exserted, and bright blue. Summer and winter months. Brazil. Pentas.—A genus of soft-growing shrubs, be- longing to the Cinchonads. stopping to keep them bushy. The flowers are admirably adapted for cutting for bouquets, or, in- deed, any other purpose where choice flowers are required. Pot in leaf-mould, peat, loam, and sand, in about equal parts. Stove. P. carnea.—Leaves opposite, slightly hirsute and bright green; flowers tubular, with a flat spreading limb, composed of five ovate segments; these are produced in dense terminal trusses; soft pmk in colour. Winter months. West Africa. P. rosea.—A slightly stronger-growing plant than the previous one, differing chiefly in the colour of its flowers, which are a rich deep rose. Winter months. West Africa. Peperomia.—aA genus of Pepper-worts, but with no economic properties ; there are an immense num- ber of species, but although all are interesting, few are sufficiently attractive to find a place in the plant- houses of amateurs. Potin peat and loam, with some sand added. Stove. They are plants of © easy culture and great beauty, but require frequent — P. argyrea—a handsome dwarf plant, seldom ex- ceeding ten inches in height; leaves orbicular, some five inches long, thick and fleshy in tex- ture ; bright green, mar- bled with silvery-white. Brazil. P. Marmorata—leaves thick and fleshy, ovate and acuminate ; bright green, marbled and spotted with white. Brazil. P.prostrata—an elegant pen- dulous plant; should be grown in a hanging basket. Leaves alternate, small, nearly round, supported on long pendent thread-like stems, thick and fleshy; ground-colour light green, veined silvery-white, varie- gated with brown. Petreea.— A genus of Verbenaceous plants, mostly climbers; they are very showy and deserve greater attention than usually falls to their lot. Pot in equal parts of peat and loam, with a little sand. Stove. P. erecta.—The leaves of both species are rough, harsh, and very unpleasant to handle; the flowers of this plant are produced in long pendent racemes and are rich bright blue. Summer months. Tropical America, P. volubile-—A climbing plant, producing iong pendent racemes of bloom; the calyx soft lavender, corolla rich violet-purple. Summer months. Mexico. Philodendron.—A large genus of Araceae, all natives of various parts of Tropical America, most of them are bold-growing plants, climbing the trunks of the forest trees by the aid of their stout aérial roots. As young plants, and before they begin to climb, they are extremely ornamental and well de- serve more extensive cultivation; by cutting them down from time to time they can be kept from climbing. Plants of easy culture, requiring plenty of heat and moisture ; pot in peat and loam in equal parts. Stove. P. Carderi—leaves cordate; intense deep satiny-green, | the midrib and principal veins light green with a | P. pinnatifidum—a fine bold- growing species, having large deep green pinnatifid leaves; it makes a fine glaucous hue, reverse sub-tropical plant in sum- sidereddish-purple,veined mer. with green. P. punctatum—this is not a P. elegans—leaves pinna- tifid, deep shining green | above, somewhat paler | below. | P. erubescens—leaves large, cordate; deep bronzy- | red when young, changing | to dark shining green. P. gloriosum — leaves cor- date; deep bottle-green | with a satiny surface, the midrib and principal veins ivory-white, reverse | side greenish-white. P. melanochrysum -——leaves | medium-sized, and deep green, the upper side burnished with gold. climbing plant ; the leaves are deep green and pinna- tifid, the large spathes are freely produced amongst the petioles; pure white, spotted with blood-red. P. Simsii—a grand and mas- sive species, with cordate- acuminate leaves, rich bright shining green above, paler below. P. Williamsii— this is a superb species with large sagittate leaves of a bright green, with pale green midrib and veins, reverse side light green, veined with heavy purple. Phyllagathis.—A genus of Melastomads, re- quiring very strong heat and a moist atmosphere, or the edges of the leaves become brown. Pot in rough peat, leaf-mould, and sand. Stove. P. rotundifolia.—This is a thoroughly distinct and handsome-leaved plant. Stem stout, quadrangular, about a foot in height; leaves opposite, almost round, measuring from six to nine inches across; the upper surface plaited and polished, intense deep blackish- ereen, flushed with red, under side deep red, veins prominent ; the flowers, which have little beauty, are borne in terminal corymbs. Phyllanthus.—aA large genus of Luphorbiacee, with much diversity in habit, some of the species being extremely ornamental; their leaves are entire, but so arranged as to present -the appearance of pinnate leaves to a casual observer. They enjoy a high temperature and moist atmosphere; pot in peat and a little loam. Stove. P. atropurpureus—a slender twiggy plant with dull purple stems; the round- ish entire leaves are green when young, changing with age to deep purple. South Sea Islands. P, nivosus—similar in habit to the preceding; the leaves in a young state HOT-HOUSE OR STOVE PLANTS. 125 erimson suffused with a coppery hue, others are eream - colour blotched with greenand rose,others green mottled with cream, whilst some have all the colours suffused in one. New Hebrides. being pure snow - white, sometimes mottled with green, and changing with age to bright green, Island of Tauna, New Hebrides. P. roseo-pictus—beautifully ' diversified leaves: some are rich crimson, some Phyllocactus.—This is a genus of Cuctacee, whick do well in an Intermediate House; flowers large and gorgeous, haying flat-jointed leaf-like branches, which has led to their being mixed up with Epiphyllums ; they differ from this genus, how- ever, in producing their flowers from the side, and not from the points of the growths. Pot in rough loam and sharp sand; drain well, as they cannot withstand stagnant water ; during winter just enough to keep them from shrivelling will be sufficient. Dry Intermediate House. P. Ackermanii — brilliant | crimson. P. anguliger—pure white. P. biformis—reddish-purple. P. crenatus—white. P. latifrons—creamy-white. | P. phyllanthoides—white. Phyllotznium.—A genus of Avacee, which require abundance of heat and moisture to develop their beauties. Pot in peat and loam, and drain well. Stove. P. Lindenii.—A very ornamental plant, with large persistent sagittate leaves, which are bright light ereen, the midrib and primary veins silvery-white, New Grenada. Pilocereus.—This genus, called the Old Man Cactus, has handsome fluted columnar stems ; it is separated from Cereus on account of the long white hairs which surmount the apex, and the flowers being mostly composed of one row of petals. Treatment same as for Cereus. P, Dautwitzi. P. Hoppenstedti. | P. Houlletti. P, nobilis. P. Peacockii. P. senilis, P. Verheyenus. P. Williamsii. Piteairnea. — This genus of Bromeliads is characterised by their slender habit, and some little distinctions in the arrangement of the flowers. The mame was given upwards of a hundred years ago to _ honour one Dr. William Pitcairn, of London, a most zealous collector of plants. They require more water at the roots than most plants ofthisorder. Peat and sandy loam. P.Andreana—leaves narrow, feet long, and narrow, ligulate, waved, entirely destitute of spines ; deep green above, with a slight seurfy tomentum beneath. Spike erect, dense, flowers long and tubular, lower part scarlet, upper rich yellow. Summer months. Chaco, New Grenada. P. flavescens — leaves re- eurved, upwards of two destitute of spines ; deep green above, white be- neath. Flower-spike erect, as long or longer than the leaves, flowers two shades of yellow, sepals golden, petals greenish - yellow. Spring and early summer. South America. P. pungens—leaves long and. recurved, spiny. Flowers rich orange-red, Summer | and autumn months, Andes of New Grenada. P. staminea — leaves very long, and pendulous, the ends of the petals rolled back, stamens very much exserted, deep reddish- long and narrow, deep crimson. Winter and green; spikes long and spring months. Tropical slender; flowers tubular, America, Plumbago. — P. coccinea belongs to the order Plumbaginee ; for treatment of the genus see green- house division; it is a free-growing, free-flowering plant, and will serve to keep the stove gay through the whole of the dull winter months, with its long panicles of rich bright scarlet blooms. Last Indies. Poinciana.— Handsome Leguminose shrubs allied to Ceesalpinia, which in their native countries assume the proportions of trees. ‘They have been much ne- glected by horticulturists for plants of less beauty. Pot in rich loam and peat, adding some sharp sand. In winter, Intermediate House ; summer, stove. P. elata is a species with twice-pinnate leaves, and large clusters of golden- yellow flowers. Summer months. East Indies. P. Gilliesii — leaves bipin- nate, unarmed, bright green; flowers produced in large clusters, rich yel- low; stamens very long, deep crimson. Summer mouths. Chili. , P, pulcherrima—this is a dwarf spiny plant, and is much used for hedges; the flowers are red and yellow, and very showy. Summer months. East Indies. P. regia—leaves bipinnate, bearing upwards of a dozen pairs of leaflets; flowers produced in axil- lary racemes, rich crim- son, very showy. Sum- mer months. Madagascar, Poinsettia.—A genus of Huphorbiacee, which has very little, if any, distinctive character to sepa- rate it from Euphorbia; when well grown they produce a brilliant effect in the stove during winter. They should be potted in good sandy loam, peat, and leaf- mould, in about equal parts, adding some sharp sand to keep it porous. The plants may be grown in a cool house or frame during the summer months. About September they should be removed into warmer quarters, when the bright bracts will soon begin to appear ; after flowering keep the plants dry and cool, with only just water enough to prevent shrivelling until the end of May, when growth may again be encouraged for the next winter’s display. The bracts must be kept from damp, or they will soon become spotted and decay. P. pulcherrima.—This may be grown as single- stem specimens, or as much-branched shrubs, accord- ing to the pleasure of the cultivator ; the flower-heads - are composed of small green blooms, but the nume- rous brilliant scarlet bracts which surround them are very showy. There is a form with white bracts, called alba ; another in which the bracts are very numerous, giving the head a double appearance, and named plenissima ; and one in which the bracts are a soft rose, called vosea-carminata. All are winter bloomers. Mexico. 126 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. En OBA G ST LON. By W. WATSON. PROPAGATION BY LEAVES. NDER certain conditions buds are formed on the leaves, the roots, or the flower-stems of a large number of plants; such buds being called adventitious, to distinguish them from the stem or normal buds, that are found present on all plants, and which are borne in the axils of the leaves. It is supposed that the leaves of a very large propor- tion of plants possess this power to develop extra- ordinary buds, and that their failing to do so when tested by the gardener is due to improper treatment rather than to absolute impotence in the leaf itself. ‘It is, however, only in a few cases that leaf-cuttings are resorted to for purposes of propagation, such plants as Begonia, Gloxinia, Echeveria, and a few others, of more or less succulent nature, being the only ones for the increase of which leaf-cuttings are employed. Numerous other plants have proved capable of propagation by this means, some of them being not at all succulent-leaved, while, on the other hand, plants of excessive succulence have proved unable to form buds when tested in the same way. In some cases where leaf-cuttings have been tried, roots were freely developed, but no bud was formed. Ficus elastica, Camellias, and Hoya carnosa may be mentioned as plants whose leaves root freely but do not develop buds, although left in the propagating- house for several years. Lindley states that the leaves of Roses strike freely, but will not form buds, a peculiarity which, along with the above, is sup- posed to belong to the nature of species, and is not easily explained. Where it is desirable that a new plant should be propagated as abundantly and rapidly as possible, it will be found often advantageous to place the leaves that are removed from stem-cuttings in the propa- gating-frame, and treat as advised below. That success might come when least expected may be seen by the following list, which comprises plants capable of propagation by leaf-cuttings. To any one ac- quainted with the nature of these plants, it will be apparent that no rule can be laid down for the guidance of the cultivator, either when based on the texture of the leaves or the nature of the plants. List of plants that may be propagated by means of leaves or portions of leaves :— Afschynanthus. Fritillaria. ‘d Begonia. Fuchsia. Bertolonia. Gasteria. Bryophyllum. Gesnera. Cardamine. Gloxinia. Cephaelis. Haworthia. Citrus. Hippeastrum. Cliauthus. Hoya. Echeveria. Hyacinthus. Lilium. | Phyllagathis. Lithospermum. Pinguicula. Mentha. Sempervivum. Pachyphytum. Watercress, Pelargonium. In this list only those plants are included whose leaves have proved able to form buds capable of developing into plants, and it will be understood that a large number of plants might be added to the above if their leaves were tested. This method of propagation is only rarely resorted to; a fact which accounts for the smallness of the number of plants known to be amenable to it. Turning now to the plants that are usually in- creased from cuttings made of leaves,a word may be said on the treatment such leaves require, and the best time of year for the operation. Gloxinias may be dealt with at all times of the year when leaves are obtainable, the most favourable period being autumn. Well-matured leaves should be selected, avoiding those in which the yellowness of decay has appeared. The leaf-stalk may be severed at any point, it being unnecessary to secure them with a heel or portion of the stem. ‘The blade may then be divided longitudinally, so that a large leaf would form about half a dozen cuttings. It is, however, better when the blade is cut imto sections, each section having a portion of the midrib attached to its base. Some prefer severing the midrib into about a dozen pieces, leaving the blade intact. In this way a plant is obtained from each portion of the midrib, bulbils being developed on the lower end of eack. Where the latter plan is adopted the whole leaf must be pegged on to a pan of sandy soil. If the leaf is divided up into smaller pieces, cutting- pots may be used, filling the pots half full of drain- age, and the other half witha light sandy soil. Into this the cuttings must be placed, obliquely, so that whilst held firmly in the soil their bases are only a little below the surface. A hot-bed or close frame in a propagating-house will be the most suitable place for the cuttings till rooted. In a small moist stove, a position on a shelf near the glass would answer equally well for Gloxinia cuttings. Bertolonias may be increased from healthy ripened leaves, which, if the midrib be nicked in several places, and the whole leaf then pegged on to a pot of very sandy peat, soon form roots and tiny tubers at every incision, if placed ina moist propagating- frame. For these plants autumn isthe most suitable season, the leaves at that time being more vigorous than at any other. B. Van Houtteana is easily in- creased from leaf-cuttings; B. Marmorata and one or two others sometimes produce good seed, from which abundance of plants may be obtained. Gasterias, Haworthias, Echeverias, Sempervivums, and such-like succulents, are easily propagated from PROPAGATION. 127 leaves. The nature of these plants is sucn as 70 enable any portion of them to remain fresh and plump for a long time when placed under perfectly dry conditions; and such conditions are, as a rule, more favourable to the formation of roots, both by stem and leaf cuttings, than any other. All that is necessary, when a stock of these plants is wanted, is to strip the leaves from the lower part of the stem, placing them on a dry shelf for a few days, and then laying them on pans or boxes of dry sandy soil in a warm house. This treatment causes the leaves to develop roots, and afterwards buds, which soon start into growth, when water may be given them in the same quantities as required by larger plants. Pinguicula caudata.—This handsome Butterwort is propagated either from seeds, seldom ripened in this country, or by means of its large tongue-shaped leaves; it does not develop lateral or basal buds in the same way as the British Butterworts are known to do. The leaves require to be prepared as advised for Bertolonias, but a pan of silver sand should be used instead of soil for them, ‘They should be in- serted with their bases just in the sand, and the blade resting upon it. Over the pan a pane of glass may be placed, the whole to be stood on a shelf near the glass, in a stove temperature. If the sand is moist when the cuttings are inserted, little or no water will be required by the cuttings till buds are developed. Begonias may be treated as suggested for Gloxinias; or if to be propagated on a large scale, a frame containing cocoa-nut fibre, heated to about 70°, may be used, pegging the Begonia-leaves on to the fibre. We may just refer here to the re- productive nature of some Fern-fronds, especially the Aspleniums, Nephrodiums, Aspidiums, and some Hymenophyllums, the fronds of which usually bear buds, which eventually form plants. The require- ments of such leaves, when wanted for propagating purposes, are pretty much the same as those of the plants themselves. : Mention may also be made of the fleshy scales of some Cycads, of Marattias and Angiopteris, which have been employed as cuttings, owing to their power to root and produce plants. At Kew, both the Ferns here mentioned have been propagated in this way. The scales are large and succulent, and are borne on the stem about the bases of the leaf- stalks. When severed from the stem and placed in a propagating-frame, they first push forth roots, which are followed by the buds, generally a pair of buds to each scale, one on each side of the base. _ The scales which form Lilium bulbs may, in like manner, be used for propagation, as if fresh when gathered, and placed in sandy soil in an intermediate temperature, they root and form small bulbs, capable ‘method than that of root-cuttings. of growing into large plants. All these exceptional ways of obtaining a stock of plants are only resorted to in rare cases; they are chiefly of physiological interest, showing, as they do, how nature has pro- vided piants with auxiliary powers for their repro- duction, which are held in reserve till called upon by the failure of the normal or proper means to fulfil the functions of increase or reproduction. PROPAGATION BY ROOT-CUTTINGS. The term root is sometimes applied to parts of a plant which are not strictly roots, although often produced in the same way and along with, or upon, true roots. Such portions are rhizomes, which are simply underground stems, as in Iris, Primrose, and Arum; corms, as in the Crocus and Cyclamen; and tubers, as in Caladium, Ginger, and Potato. These are all different forms of stem, as may be seen in their structure and appearance. We are incorrect in assuming that all subterranean portions of a plant belong to the roots. The proper function of roots is that of binding the plant to the earth, and absorbing nourishment for the stems and leaves; and, under normal conditions, they do not bear buds or any other organs. But although not naturally furnished with buds, many roots have the power to form them under certain circumstances, and, in a few cases, we may see them developing shoots habitually. Limes, Chestnuts, Poplars, Apples, and other trees may sometimes be seen surrounded by colonies of saplings, which owe their origin to this tendency on the part of roots to originate buds. In consequence of this power in true roots, we often employ them for purposes of propagation, and, in the case of a few plants, root-cuttings are either the only or the readiest means of increase. As in the case of bud-generation in leaves, there appears to be no rule by which we can judge of the power of roots to form buds, but it is very likely that a great many more plants have this power than is generally believed. Where any difficulty occurs in the propa- gation of plants by the generally practised methods, it is always wise to try some of these out-of-the-way means, as by them a lucky hit is not unfrequently made. Take as instances of this the Droseras, Arnebia echioides, Trichinium Manglesii, and the TIpecacuanha plant: which are but a few of those plants which are difficult of increase by any other It is stated that the introduction of the valuable medicinal plant Cephielis Ipecacuanha into India could not be suc- cessfully brought about till it was discovered that its roots, when cut up into small pieces, would produce plants. Nurserymen know the value of this method, especially when applied to herbaceous plants, whilst most gardeners are acquainted with its advantages 128 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. for the increase of Anemones, 4ralia Japonica, Peonia Moutan, &e. As an illustration of how to proceed in the pro- pagation of plants by root-cuttings, we may take Anemone Japonica, with the nature of which every gardener is familiar. “If a root of this kind be taken out of the ground after flowering, it will be found to resemble brown cord, divided into a great number of ramifications, as 1s represented in the accompanying wood-cut. Upon its surface will be perceived a multitude of white conical projec- \ tions, sometimes grow- ing singly, sometimes springing up in clusters, -and occasionally pro- ducing scales upon their sides. ‘They are young biids, every one of which, if cut from the parent, will grow, and form a young plantina few weeks. These buds are not confined to the main trunk of the root, but extend even towards its extremities; so that every fragment of the plant is reproductive. It is certain that vitality is stronger in the roots than in any part of the plant.” (Lindley.) Paulownia imperialis may be freely increased by cutting its fleshy roots into pieces about two inches long, and placing them in pans or boxes of sandy soil; the month of March is the most favourable time for striking cuttings of this plant, and, indeed, for the majority of plants to which this method is applied. The roots of Droseras are usually long and somewhat fleshy ; these may be cut up into pieces an inch long, each one of which will produce a plant, The treatment to be followed for the propa- gation of all plants where root-cuttings are used is as follows:—If possible, the whole plant should be removed from the ground, and, after washing the soil very carefully from the roots, the thickest and plumpest roots should be cut away, leaving sufficient roots on the plant to insure its re-establish- ment when re-planted. In the case of trees, the roots may be bared of soil, and cuttings selected. The cuts at both ends of each cutting should be Fig. 17.—Root oF ANEMONE JAPONICA. a, Root-buds enlarged. clean, and it is necessary to avoid breaking the bark of the roots in manipulation. Stout roots, if plentiful, may be cut into lengths of about three inches, but, as a rule, lengths of one inch will answer as well as longer ones. Generally, each cutting pro- duces only one bud, whatever its length, though in some cases—as, for instance, Drosera—several buds are sometimes developed on a single portion of root. In preparing cutting-pots, boxes, or pans for the reception of root-cuttings, the same rules may be followed as are observed in the case of stem-cut- tings, care being taken that the soil is well drained and contains a large proportion of sand. If the cuttings be short they may be scattered over the surface of the soil, and covered with a thin layer of the same mixture, or of pure sand. Longer pieces may be dibbled in with their hases a little below the surface of the soil. A little bottom heat may be employed for cut- tings of even hardy plants, the heat of a propagating-frame be- ing advantageous to all tropical kinds. As a rule, the buds are de- veloped on the outside of the root-cutting, ex- actly as adventitious buds appear on stem- - cuttings. In Maclura tinctoria this rule is departed from, the shoots spring- ing from between the wood and the bark of the root. A remarkable case of bud-formation on roots is recorded in the Gardeners’ Chronicle, vol. xxili.,p. 110. Mr. A. D. Webster, in a paper read before the Royal Horticultural Society, called attention to the extra- ordinary way in which a British Orchid, Veottia Nidus-avis, springs up in a single season where it was never seen in a young state; and on examining the root-stock, he found that the fleshy root-fibres, though dead at the base or end which had been attached to the old plant, were alive at the other end, and gradually developed young fibres. The extreme point of the root becomes a bud or shoot, from which a plant is ultimately developed. It is possible that the so-called roots on which buds are formed by this plant are not true roots, but under- PROPAGATION. 129 ground stems or stolons, analogous to what is seen in the reproductive character of the Strawberry. The same character is met with among Amaryllda- ceous plants, Crinums and Agaves being the com- monest examples. It is generally supposed that Cordylines (Draceenas) are propagated from root- cuttings, but the portions of the plants thus em- ployed appear to be forms of the stem rather than true roots. It is, however, often difficult to dis- criminate between such parts and roots proper. In Burbidge’s ‘“ Propagation and Improvement of Plants,’ it is stated that the thick roots of Platy- ceriums will develop plants if employed as cuttings, I am not aware of any Fern the roots of which would develop buds, nor does there appear to be any record of such having been seen except that here mentioned. The thick fleshy roots of Dahlias, Aspa- ragus, Alstroemerias, Bomarias, Dichorisandras, and some others are useless for purposes of propagation unless attached to portions of the stem; at least, I have never succeeded in getting plants from these tubers when entirely severed from the stem. Such organs appear to be meant to act as reservoirs, in which food is stored against unfavourable conditions. In the subjoined list the names of those plants which may be increased from root-cuttings are given. Most of them have been successfully propagated in this way at Kew, and the whole of them may be considered well proved. It will be obvious, in what is above stated, that a great number of plants would probably prove capable of increase by means of root- cuttings, so that in any doubtful case it will be advis- able to try the roots, especially of plants not readily propagated by any of the common methods. List of plants which may be propagated from root-cuttings :— Acacia grandis, Hellebores. A. pubescens. Jasminums. A. pulchella. Maclura tinctoria. Acalyphas. Melianthus. Anemone Japonica. Apples. Aralia Japonica. A. cordata, A. papyrifera. Araucarias (?) Aristolochia Goldieana. Arnebia echioides, Bouvardias. Cephaelis Ipecacuanha. Cephalotus follicularis. Cherries. Clematis. Clerodendron fallax. C. fragrans. C. trichotomum. Dais cotinifolia, Droseras. Greyia Sutherlandii. Monsonia lobata. Peeonia, herbaceous, P. Moutan. Pauax plumatum. Passifioras. Paulownia imperialis. Pears. Pelargoniums. Petra volubilis. Plums, Pulsatilla bracteata. Pyrus Japonica, Roses, Scolymus grandiflorus. Senecio pulcher. Stangeria paradoxa. Trichinium Manglesii. Xanthoceras orbifolia. PROPAGATION BY EYES. Eyes, or buds, are incipient branches, developed generally in the axils of leaves, and destined to con- 81 tinue the growth of the plant on which they are formed. There is no real difference between what we call a cutting and an eye, except that in the former a portion of the branch, and generally leaves, accompany the bud or buds. From this it will be apparent that eyes when favourably situated will re- produce the individual plant from which they have been severed, exactly in the same way as is done by cuttings. ‘There seems, therefore, no reason why eyes should not prove equally advantageous with cuttings for the multiplication of plants; but with only few exceptions eyes are incapable of forming roots and becoming separate plants, and even these exceptions are not eyes simply, but have attached to them a portion of wood and bark, and sometimes a leaf also. Practically eyes alone are incapable of Fig. 18.—RooTepD EYEs. A, Rooted eye of Dieffenbachia; 3B, rooted eye of Cordy- line (Draczena), with young plant developed from eye. being turned to good account for propagating purposes, although the Vine may be said to be almost an exception. The supposed instance of natural reproduction by means of eyes which is said to be shown by some Liliums, on the stems of which buds are developed, and “separate spontaneously from their mother-stem, and falling to the ground, emit roots and become new plants,” appears to us to be of a different nature from ordinary bud develop- ment. A Lilium stem does not form axillary buds similar to what are seen in a Dracena stem, for if the top of the former be removed no lateral shoot is developed, as would take place in the latter case; on the contrary, the growth of the Lilium stem is stopped, and not unfrequently perishes. The bulbils formed in the axils of Lilium stems appear to be analogous to those produced by some Begonias and the flower-stems of Agave. Each eye must be accompanied by a portion of the stem, or a leaf, to enable it to form roots and grow. Eyes of Draceena and of Dieffenbachia are here shown, and it will be apparent from them that 130 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. what we usually term “eyes,” when speaking of propagation, are really stem-cuttings. These two stove-plants are generally increased from “eyes” made as here shown (Fig. 18). In every case where cuttings of portions of the branches are not available, and eyes only can be obtained for the propagation of the plant, it will be found advisable to sever a portion of the wood, however small, and if possible a leaf also, with each eye. This precau- tion will insure greater success than can be hoped for where it is neglected ; by its means it becomes possible to employ eyes for the increase of numerous plants. Perhaps the only plant for which eyes are most frequently employed for its propagation is the Vine, for detailed treatment of which see Vol. I., pages 230 and 231. Many plants, both out-door and in, may be increased in the same manner as Vines, but in almost every case a portion of the wood is at- tached to each eye, so that practically they may be called cuttings of a single eye. The importance of leaves both on these and on larger cuttings has already been commented upon. A leafless cutting is never so likely to succeed as one with leaves. Vines, and a few other plants, are perhaps exceptions, but no doubt the large quantity of organisable matter stored up in the ripened shoot of a Vine sup- plies the cuttings with that nourishment and vital force, which in many other plants is afforded almost wholly by the leaves. ORCHIDS. By WiLL1am HucH GOWER. Sarcanthus,—A small genus of mostly small- growing plants; they can scarcely be considered showy and effective, and yet there is a charm about them which is indescribable. The name comes from sarx, “flesh,” and anthus, “a flower,” in allusion to the extreme fleshiness of their flowers in proportion to their size. Some species of this genus are extremely slow in growth, but still profuse bloomers. They should be grown in small hanging baskets, and treated the same as Aerides, which see. East Indian House. S. chrysomelas—A more robust plant than the majority of the members of the genus; it is a hand- some-growing and very ornamental species. The flowers are produced in profusion, but are small. Sepals and petals dull purple, inclining to black; lip somewhat triangular, yellow. Summer months. British Burmah. S. erinaceus.—This is a small plant, and a very slow grower, introduced in some quantity about the year 1856, under the name of derides rubrum. Leaves two-ranked, oblong-acute, about three or four inches long, and dark green, the sheathing base freckled with reddish-brown. Peduncle pendulous, six to eight inches long, clothed with woolly hairs, rose-pink in colour. Racemes lax, bearing from ten to twenty flowers. Sepals and petals waxy- white, tinged with pink; lip rosy-red, column pro- longed into a curious beak. Summer and autumn months. British Burmah. S. Parishii.imLeaves lorate, obliquely two-lobed at the ends, about six inches long, dark green above, paler below. Racemes longer than the leaves, pendu- lous, many-flowered. Sepals and petals deep yellow, streaked with red; the lip rosy-pink. Summer and autumn months. British Burmah. Schomburgkia.—tThis genus commemorates the celebrated explorer and collector, Sir Robert Schom- burgk. These plants are nearly allied to Epiden- drum; they are large and massive-growing plants, bearing their showy flowers upon long spikes. The treatment given for Cattleya will suit them ad- mirably. Brazilian House. S. crispa.—The members of this genus resemble Cattleyas in appearance. The pseudo-bulbs of this species are about a foot high, bearing a pair of dark green coriaceous leaves. Flower-spike terminal, about five feet long, bearing upon the summit a large raceme of yellow and brown flowers of great beauty. Winter months. Brazil. S. Lyonsii.—This is a somewhat rare species; its pseudo-bulbs are a foot or more long, bearing a terminal spike some three feet high; upon the apex of this it bears a many-flowered raceme. Flowers white, spotted with yellow and purple. Autumn months. Jamaica. S. tibicinis—The pseudo-bulbs of this species are very large and stout, attaining a height of about two feet; these are ribbed and quite hollow, and from this it has been called the Cow-horn Orchid. There is a small hole at the base of each, and it is said these are always occupied by colonies of ants. Flower- spike five to nine feet long, bearing a very large raceme of flowers near the summit. Sepals and petals rosy-pink dotted and spotted with bright brown. Lip white, lateral lobes tinged with rose. Spring and early summer. Honduras. Scuticaria.—From scutica, ‘a whip,” in reference to the long whip-like terete leaves. Scuticarias, from their habit of hanging down, must be grown upon a block of wood, or in a shallow basket, with sphag- num moss and a little peat. They enjoy a copious supply of water in the summer months, and must never be allowed to shrivel, even in winter. As a genus it is closely allied to Mavillaria, its principal ORCHIDS. 131 point of distinction being the gland which bears its four pollen-masses. Warmest end of Brazilian House. S. Steelit.—The whole plant is pendulous. Pseudo- bulbs very small and short, bearing a terete thong- like leaf, three to four feet long, and deep green. Scape short, springing from the base of the pseudo- bulb, one to two-flowered. Flowers thick and fleshy, very fragrant. Sepals and petals pale yellow, spotted and blotched with purple. The lip small, and somewhat deeper in colour. Autumn months. Demerara. Sobralia.—This name commemorates the services to science of M. J. M. Sobral, a celebrated Spanish botanist. The plants belonging to this family are all terrestrial, with long reed-like stems in the place of pseudo-bulbs, bearing large strongly-ribbed or plicate leaves. The flowers are terminal, large and showy; they are, however, for the most part very fugacious, which has caused them to lose favour with many cultivators of this order of plants. The species for which the genus was established (S. dichotoma), we are told, forms thick and almost impenetrable jungles or thickets in Peru, forming stout stems like Bamboo, and reaching a height of ten to twenty feet. If all attained such gigantic proportions, our modern Orchid-houses could not accommodate them. There are, however, numerous species of dwarf habit, for which it is easy to find space, and their large and brilliant-coloured flowers will amply repay for any attention bestowed upon them; for although the blooms of Sobralias are fugitive, there are several developed in each terminal spathe, and as soon as one fades another is at hand to take its place. Sobralias make large masses of roots, and there- fore require plenty of pot-room, and an abund- ance of water during the growing season; during the winter months less will be required, but it is not conducive to health to allow them to feel drought at any time. The pots must be drained well. For soil use loam, leaf-mould, and peat, in equal parts. Mexican division of Brazilian House. S. Cattleya.—In stating that the stems are reed- like for this species, the same may be understood for all. Stems stouter than usual, leaves shining bright green. Flowers large and persistent, deep purplish- brown, with three yellow lines traversing the centre of the lip; the column white. Summer months. Columbia. S. chlorantha.—Stems dwarf, leaves fleshy and not plaited. Flowers upwards of four inches in length, clear yellow. Summer months. Brazil. S. chrysantha.—Leaves slightly fleshy. Flowers rich yellow. This is distinguished by having no appendage at its base, although it is crested along the centre. Summer months. New Grenada. S. decora.—A small plant with smooth stems, Sepals and petals overlapping, white. Lip rose- colour. Various times during summer. Guatemala. S. lliastrwn.— Leaves lanceolate, light gieen., Flowers large, very fugacious, produced on many- flowered racemes. Sepals and petals rose-coloured, waved at the edges. Lip rich deep rose, crested with white. Summer months. Demerara. S. liliastrum, var, alba.—Leaves scarcely so robust as in the species. Flowers pure white, the lip crested with yellow. Summer months. Demerara. S. macrantha.— Stems about six feet high. Flowers large, upwards of six inches in length, rich purple, and very fragrant. It continues to flower throughout the summer months. S. mucrantha, var. nana.—This is usually called “‘ Wolley’s variety,” as it appears he was the first to obtain it. ‘The stems seldom exceed three feet in height, and therefore it is easily accommodated, Flowers large, six to eight inches in length, rich deep purple and crimson. Summer months. Gua- temala. S. macrantha, var. pallida.—About the same height as the species. Flowers large and very fragrant, six to seven inches long. Sepals and petals delicate pale rose; lip white. Summer months. Guatemala.. S. Ruckerii.—A dwarf species, which produces its flowers in racemes, several being open at the same time, and they are very persistent. Flowers large and somewhat fleshy. Sepals and petals beautiful dark rose. Lip large and spreading in front, rich crimson, white on the disc, and three-ribbed, but destitute of any protuberance at the base. It blooms throughout the summer months. New Grenada. S. sessilis.— This is a dwarf plant, somewhat in the way of S. decora, but differs from it in having its stems clothed with short black hairs, and in its flowers being destitute of a foot-stalk (sessile). Flowers, in the sepals and petals, rich rose-colour, lip white, stained with yellow at the base. Autumn months. Demerara. S. violacea.— A dwarf species, with imbricating leafy bracts. Flowers large, light violet in the sepals and petals. Lip deeper-coloured. In the variety lutco-alba the flowers are pure white, with a stain of yellow on the hp. Summermonths. New Grenada. Sophronitis.—A genus of small compact-grow- ing epiphytes, with, for the most part, large and showy flowers, and as these are produced during the winter months they are very highly appreciated. The name comes from sophrona, ‘‘modest,”’ which was applicable to the first species discovered (S. cernua), 132 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. but the large and brilliantly coloured flowers of some of the later discoveries are the most conspicuous objects in the plant-house. Sophronitis should be planted in equal parts of peat and sphagnum moss, and suspended in an earthenware basket. They enjoy a liberal supply of water all the year round. Peruvian House. S. cernua.—This plant is dwarf, bearing a single oblong-oval leaf, and a few-flowered raceme of small flowers, which are red, with a yellow lip. Winter months. Neighbourhood of Rio Janeiro. S. grandifiora.—A superb plant, which seldom exceeds six inches in height; pseudo-bulbs tufted, short, and _ bearing a single oblong leaf. Peduncles long and slender, bearing a large solitary flower, upwards of three inches across in good varieties. Sepals and petals thick and fleshy, the latter very much the larger, all of a uniform rich scarlet or crimson. Lip yellow, the nar- row - pointed front lobe scarlet. In the variety coccinea the pseudo - bulbs are more oblong, and the flowers intense scarlet. In var. rosea the pseudo-bulbs are very short and obtuse, and the whole flower, in- cluding the lip, is a delicate soft rose. It blooms throughout the winter months. Jt is found on trees on the mountains, where rime frost is seen in the morning, near Rio, and in different parts of Brazil. S. violacea. —Pseudo-bulbs small and _ slender, bearing a long, narrow, sharp-pointed leaf. Flowers small but very pretty, delicate soft violet in colour. Winter months. Organ Mountains, Brazil. Stanhopea.—A large genus of handsome-flowered epiphytes, named in honour of Karl Stanhope. They are robust-growing plants, with stout and large ribbed pseudo-bulbs, which bear a single large, dark SOPHRONITIS GRANDIFLORA. green, plaited leaf, thick and coriaceous in texture, and very persistent. The flower-spike springs from the base of the pseudo-bulb, and grows straight downwards, and bears a number of large flowers of a most extraordinary shape, nearly all the species being more or less powerfully fragrant. The flowers, however, are somewhat short-lived. The extra- ordinary shape of the flowers necessitates fresh definitions for the peculiarly formed lip, which is divided into three parts—the hypochil or lower cavity, the mesochil or middle part, from which the horns proceed, and the epichil or front movable lobe. Stanhopeas should be grown in hanging baskets, with the bottom full of large perforations, in order to allow the flower-spikes to get down; planted in peat and sphagnum, and allowed to become tho- roughly root-bound, as in this state they flower far more freely. An abundant supply of water is necessary during the growing season, but not a drop should be given during the winter, unless they show signs of ex- haustion. Brazilian House when grow- ing; when at rest, Peruvian House. S. Bucephalus. — Raceme three to six- flowered. Flowers very large, and rich tawny - orange, pro- fusely spotted with blood - red; power- fully aromatic. Summer and early autumn. The mountains of Ecuador, at 6,000 feet elevation. S. guttulata. — Flowers large, ground-colour a pale nankeen, very thickly spotted and dotted with purple. Lip with a narrow truncate hypochil, meso- chil somewhat ovate, nearly flat, bearing three small teeth. It is a beautiful flower, somewhat resem- bling S. ocwata, but destitute of the eye-like spots. Summer and early autumn months. Brazil. S. insignis. — Raceme three to seven-flowered. Flowers large and fragrant. Sepals and petals a pale creamy-yellow, profusely and regularly spotted with reddish-purple. Lip white, and dotted with purple, the hypochil bearing a pair of large violet- purple spots. Early autumn months. Brazil. S. Martiana.— Raceme about three-flowered, and these are very large and massive. Sepals and petals not reflexed as in most of the species; the ORCHIDS. 133 sepals very broad, thick and waxy, yellowish-white, spotted and dotted with red; petals much narrower, blotched and spotted with chocolate. Lip white, dotted all over with red, and stained at the base with a large blotch of reddish-brown. months. Mexico. S. oculata.—This species derives its name from the peculiar eye-like spots on the side of the hypochil, which are sometimes represented by one pair, at others two pairs. Racemes bearing nume- rous large flowers. Sepals pale yellow, profusely spotted with lilac or purple; petals much narrower, sparingly marked with a few large spots. Flowers very aromatic, with a smooth and shining surface. Autumn months. Mexico. S. ornatissima. — Raceme three to five-flowered. Flowers large and fragrant. Sepals and petals very deep orange, spotted all over with dull red, and stained at the base with a large blotch of reddish- purple. Lip white, dotted all over with rose, and bearing on the hypochil a pair of eye-like purplish spots. Autumn months. Mexico. S. radiosa.—Raceme three to five-flowered. Dorsal sepals and petals white, tinged with straw-colour, dotted all over with pink lateral sepals white, tinged with straw-colour, and, like the petals, stained to- wards the base with tawny-orange. The lip pale yellow, dotted with pink, the hypochil tawny-orange. Autumn months. Mexico. S. tegrina.—This species produces the largest flowers in the whole genus, often measuring eight inches across. Sepals and petals very thick and waxy, the ground-colour a rich yellow, irregularly blotched and striped with rich brown. Lip tawny- yellow, dotted with reddish-brown. It yields a very strong odour, somewhat between vanilla and melon, and very aromatic. Summer months. Mexico. S. tricornis.—F lowers some six inches across, very fragrant, ground-colour pale clear yellow ; petals and lip almost deep yellow; the hypochil bearing a pair of deep orange eye-like spots, the mesochil having an additional short horn-like process. Autumn months. On the Mountain of Chimborazo, Peru. S. Wardiana.—This is a very fine species, and an abundant bloomer. Raceme three to six-flowered or more. Ground colour deep rich golden-orange, much spotted with reddish-orange. The hypochil orna- mented with a large blotch of dark velvety-purple. The flowers are very fragrant. Summer and early autumn. Guatemala. . Early autumn Stenorhynchus.—A small genus of terrestrial Orchids, containing very few showy-flowered species. The name is derived from its narrow column: stenos, “narrow,” and rhynchus,“ a beak.” The various members of this family are all natives of South = America and the islands of the West Indies. For soil use two parts of loam to one of peat, and do not elevate the plant above the rim of the pot. Supply freely with water until growth is mature, when very little will suffice until fresh growth com- mences. Brazilian House. S. speciosus.—Leaves broadly-oblong, waved at the edges, dark green. Scape erect, longer than the leaves, bearing large scarlet bracts, longer than the flowers. Raceme dense and many-flowered. Outer portion of flower scarlet; petals and lip white. Its brilliantly coloured flowers and bracts render it very conspicuous. Spring and summer months. West Indian Islands. Thunia.—aA small genus of terrestrial plants, which have been separated from Phajus. They have long terete, stem-like, deciduous pseudo-bulbs, and terminal clusters of flowers. Pot-culture suits them best. Plant them in rough peat, sphagnum moss, and well-decomposed cow-manure. During the grow- ing season these plants require an abundance of water. After the flowering is over the leaves will soon begin to fall, and very little water will be sufficient to keep life in them until growth com- mences again. Hast Indian House. T. alba.—Stems erect, two to three feet high, clothed with glaucous, lanceolate, stem - clasping leaves. Flowers in short, dense, terminal racemes. Sepals and petals linear-lanceolate, longer than the lip, pure white. Lip white, streaked with purple and lilac. Summer months. Northern India. T. Bensonie.—Similar in habit to the preceding ; leaves sheathing at the base, about ten inches long, linear-lanceolate, bright green above, paler below. Flowers large, some three inches long, in dense terminal racemes. Sepals and petals linear-lanceolate, deep reddish-purple on the outside, paler towards the centre. Lip three-lobed, rolled over the column at the base, where it is white, spreading in front, where it is rich deep purple, frilled on the edge, and bearing several yellow-crested ridges on the disc. Summer months. British Burmah. Trichocentrum.—From fthriz, “a hair,” and centron, “a spur,” in reference to the spur at the base of the column. A small genus of dwarf tufted epiphytes, only two species of which are worth growing for their beauty. They should be grown upon a block of wood, or in small earthenware baskets, and kept moderately well supplied with water all the season. Brazilian House. T. albo-purpureum.—Pseudo-bulbs ovate, bearing oblong-lanceolate, coriaceous, bright green leaves. Peduncle pendulous, one-flowered; fiowers about two inches across. Sepals and petals brown, tipped 134 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. Lip white, with two large It blooms at various with yellowish-green. purple spots at the base. seasons. Rio Negro, Brazil. T. tigrinum.—This is a very handsome species, with more the appearance of a Miltonia than a mem- ber of this genus. The flowers are large; sepals and petals yellow, profusely spotted with rich purple- maroon. Lip very large, cuneiform, white, the disc yellow, and the base a deep rich violet. It blooms at various seasons. Hcuador. Trichopilia.— A small family of epiphytes, deriving their name from the peculiar column, which has upon its summit three tufts of hairs or plumes, which form a hood and cover the anther—thus, thriz, “a hair,’ and pilon, “a cap.’ Trichopilias are all dwarf compact plants, producing showy flowers, and are nearly allied to Mazillaria. Pot- culture suits these plants best, although they thrive well in baskets. Plant them in a mixture of peat and sphagnum moss, adding a few nodules of charcoal and a little sharp sand, and keep the plants well elevated above the rim. These plants do not require a large water supply to their roots at any time, although even in the winter they should never be allowed to feel the effect of drought ; but they give proof by the way they grow that they _ enjoy an atmosphere well charged with moisture. Brazilian House. T. coccinea.—Pseudo-bulbs tufted, oblong, bearing a single lanceolate-acute, leathery, dark green leaf. Peduncle, from the base of the pseudo-bulb, pen- dulous, one to three-flowered. Flowers variable in colour. Sepals and petals linear-lanceolate, very slightly twisted, reddish-brown, with a narrow marginal border of yellowish-white. Lip rolled over the column with a spreading front limb, white outside, deep red within, the margin bordered with white. Spring and carly summer. New Grenada. T. crispa.—This plant we are told grows naturally “upon the branches of trees overhanging streams of water,” thus showing it enjoys the moisture which rises into the atmosphere. It is a robust-growing species, producing two crops of flowers in one season. Raceme pendulous, one to three-flowered. Sepals and petals reddish-crimson, narrowly edged with white. Lip trumpet-shaped, deeper colour than the petals, with a narrow white border. Spring months. Costa Rica. T. crispa, var. marginata.—This form still remains extremely rare; it is similar in habit to the preced- ing, perhaps more robust, as it attains a height of about twelve inches. Racemes one to three-flowered. The blooms are larger than the species, bright crimson, with a distinct white border to all the parts. Summer months. Central America. P. Galeottiana.—Pseudo-bulbs stem-like and pale green, bearing a single dark green leaf. Raceme pendulous. Sepals and petals not twisted, white. Lip light pink, and suffused with pale yellow. Spring and summer months. Mexico, at 3,000 feet elevation. T. hymenantha.— Pseudo-bulbs clustered, very small, bearing a single narrowly-lanceolate leaf, thick and fleshy in texture, about six inches long, and deep green. Racemes pendulous, about six- flowered; sepals and petals white. Lip spreading, not rolled over the column, toothed at the edge, with a little point in front, white, prettily dotted and spotted with bright red. Spring and summer months. New Grenada. T. suavis.—Pseudo-bulbs large and ovate, with compressed edges. Leaves solitary, broadly-obtuse, and deep green, the whole plant usually about a foot high. Raceme pendulous, two to three-flowered; these are very large, and deliciously fragrant. Sepals and petals pure white. Lip trumpet-shaped, the base rolled over the column, the front spreading and waved at the edges, white, blotched and spotted with rosy-pink. Spring months. Costa Rica, at 5,000 to 9,000 feet elevation. T. suavis, var. splendens.—Peduncle five to six- flowered. Sepals and petals white. Lip very large, upwards of three inches across, white profusely blotched with rosy-pink and crimson, streaked and spotted with spots and streaks of rich deep orange. Spring months. Costa Rica. T. tortilis—A free-growing plant, with oblong pseudo - bulbs and an acuminate leaf. Sepals and petals long and narrow, brown, bordered with yellowish-white, and twisted in a spiral manner. Lip trumpet-shaped, white, dotted and spotted with red. Spring months. Mexico. Uropedium.—tThe name comes from ouro, “a tail,” and podion, ‘“‘a foot,’ in reference to the tail- like appendages of sepals, petals, and labellum. In habit and appearance the only known species resembles Cypripedwm caudatum, and the treatment it requires is the same as already given for that species. Brazilian House when growing: when at rest, Peruvian House. U. Lindenii.-A plant quite destitute of pseudo- bulbs, and very nearly allied to Cypripedium, one species, C. caudatum, being so like it when not in flower that it is difficult to distinguish them. Leaves distichous lorate, about a foot long, oblique at the extremity, and bright green. Peduncle one to two- flowered, erect. Sepals broad and long, somewhat undulate at the edges, yellowish, streaked with dark green and orange. Petais lengthened, with tail-like appendages, oftentimes two feet in length, purplish- ORCHIDS. | 135 orange at the base, tails brown. Lip flat and broad, lengthened out into a tail like the petals, reddish- brown. Summer months. New Grenada, at 8,500 feet elevation. Vanda.—This is perhaps the most stately genus to be found in the whole order, for the majority of the species are very ornamental, even when not in flower. They are all natives of India and the Indian Islands, and have been allowed to retain their Hindoo name, which is, however, more properly applied to parasites than epiphytes. Vandas require for the most part strong heat, and an atmosphere well charged with moisture, especially during the growing season; and although we read of the severe drought which some species have to suffer naturally, it must not be attempted under artificial treatment, or the specimens will be much disfigured and reduced in value ; therefore, water carefully during winter, giving just sufficient to maintain the leaves in a plump condition without exciting them to grow. General treatment same as for Aerides, which see. East Indian House. V. Batemanii.—Stems erect, leaves arranged in a distichous manner, which relates to all the species, and need not be repeated. Leaves thin and coriaceous, standing out straight and stiff. Raceme bearing from ten to twenty large, thick, and fleshy spreading flowers. Sepals and petals nearly equal, golden- yellow, spotted all over with crimson, purplish crim- son behind. Lip crimson. Summer months. Near the sea, Philippine Islands. V. Bensoni.m A small-growing species; leaves about six inches long, oblique at the apex. Spike a foot or more long. Raceme ten to fifteen-flowered, flowers about two inches diameter. Sepals and petals white behind, green in front, dotted all over with reddish-brown. Lip three-lobed, side lobes small, white, front lobe bifid, soft violet. Summer months. Rangoon. V. Cathearti.—A distinct and handsome species, having much the habit and appearance of a Renan- thera. Leaves linear-oblong, falcate, some eight inches long, bi-lobed, and the summit pale green. Racemes pendulous, flowers about two inches and a half across. Sepals and petals broad, nearly equal, concave, pale yellow, very thickly streaked with transverse lines of chocolate-brown. Lip three- lobed, side lobes small, white, sparingly streaked with brown at the base; front lobe reniform, with a white margin and a swollen centre, which is yellow, with a crenate border. Spring and summer months. It is found in hot shady valleys, in the néighbour. hood of water. Eastern Himalayas. V. cerulea.—This lovely species requires less heat than the majority of this family. Leaves equally truncate. Spike twelve to eighteen inches long, bearing ten to twenty flowers, which are upwards of four inches across. Sepals and petals oblong- obtuse, the latter smaller, and twisted at the base, all soft pale blue, tessellated with a deeper shade of the same colour. Lip small, linear-oblong, deep violet. Winter and spring months. Northern India. V. cerulescens—A small-growing species, with leaves about six inches long; these are about an inch broad, coriaceous in texture, keeled beneath, deep green. Scape erect ; raceme ten to twenty-flowered, each flower upwards of an inch across. Sepals and petals nearly equal, somewhat spathulate, soft lilac in front, darker behind. Lip smaller than the petals, front lobe flat, and dark blue. In the variety Boxallii the sepals and petals are nearly white, and the lip has a white marginal border. Spring months. British Burmah, at about 1,500 feet elevation. V. cristata.—A small-growing plant with less beauty than most of the species. Leaves channelled, truncate at the apex, four to six inches long, and deep green. Raceme three to six-flowered. Sepal, and petals greenish-yellow. ‘The lip three -lobed, side-lobes small and incurved, middle lobe broad and flat, unequally three-horned in front, ground- colour yellow, striped longitudinally with raised lines or crests of reddish-purple, in some varieties approaching black. Spring and early summer. Nepaul. V. Denisoniana. —This species undoubtedly is nearly allied to V. Bensoni, which it resembles in growth. Professor Reichenbach alludes to the re- curved lobes of the labellum, which he says is a point of distinction, and which he likens to the tail of a blackcock; but we find the same feature in V. Bensoni. It is the first species of this genus with white flowers ever discovered. Racemes five to ten- flowered, each flower two inches across, and pure white. Sepals and petals somewhat spathulate. Lip broad, the disc bearing fine elevated lines, the front lobe recurved on each side. Spring and early summer. Aracan Mountains. V. gigantea.—This species is very massive, indeed it bears the same relation to the other Vandas as Agave Americana does to the smaller-growing mem- bers of its family. Leaves broadly strap-shaped, eighteen inches or more long, very thick and fleshy, dark green. Raceme pendulous, from the weight of its fleshy blooms, bearing ten to fifteen flowers, each three inches across. Sepals and petals nearly equal, oblong-obtuse, inclining to spathulate, rich deep yellow, spotted and blotched with dark brown. Lip small, white, faintly tinged with purple on the side lobes. Spring and early summer. British Burmah. 136 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. V. Gowere.—This is a slender species, resembling a Camarotis in habit of growth, and the flowers are like those of Celogyne cristata in miniature; it isa cool-house plant, as in its native habitats it often has snow lie upon it during the resting season. Raceme erect, simple or branched, according to the strength of the plant, five to ten-flowered, flowers about two inches across. Sepals and petals much waved. at the edges and pure white. Lip white, tinged with yellow in front, with a little green at the base. Summer months. Northern India. V. insignis,—A plant under this name has been in English gardens for many years with a doubtful reputation. Blume many years ago gave the name toa Vanda, but every one failed to distinguish the plant named insignis in cultivation from V. tricolor, saving in colour. | iin) 1 867 Hutton sent home from the Indian Archipelago some Vandas, which turned out to be Blume’s plant, and confirmed the im- pression amongst cultivators that the imsignis of gardens was only a form of V. tricolor. The plant in question is very handsome. Leaves about ten inches long, linear, with the ends truncate, deep green. Raceme bearing six to cight or more flowers, which are spreading, and upwards of two and a half inches across. Sepals and petals somewhat spathulate, the latter being rather smaller, yellowish-white behind, deep brown in front, spotted with reddish-brown. Lip panduriform, inclining to spathulate, three-lobed, the small lateral lobes white, the large centre one purplish-rose. summer. Island of Timor. V. insignis, var. Schroederiana.—A beautiful addi- tion to this splendid family of plants. There can be little doubt of its being merely a variety of the preceding species, as in everything but colour the flowers are identical. Sepals and petals rich canary- yellow. Lip large, pure white. Autumn months. Island of Timor. V. limbata. — This species ranks among the smaller-growing kinds, and undoubtedly is a near ally of V. furva, which was at one time held in Spring and early VANDA CATHCARTI, esteem, but has lost caste since the introduction of more beautiful forms. Leaves about six inches long, and an inch and a half broad, bi-lobed at the apex, and deep green. Racemes erect, bearing ten to fifteen very showy flowers, about two inches across. Sepals and petals equal, spathulate, bright chest- nut-brown, marbled with a deeper hue of the same colour, bordered with a rich yellow, and tinged with lilac outside. Lip spreading, rosy-lilac. Summer months. Java. V~. Roxburghii.A handsome small-growing species with recurved, coriaceous, strap-shaped leaves, which are keeled below and truncate at the apex. Raceme many-flowered. Sepals and petals oblong, china-white, tessellated with purple. Lip deep red. In the variety . cerulea the flowers are the same except the lip, which is of a beautiful bright blue. Summer months. Northern India. V. suavis.—Leaves lorate, recurved, and d:ep bright green. kacemes erect, bear- ing from seven to fourteen of its ex- quisite fragrant flowers. Sepals and petals somewhat spa- thulate, erect, flat when first open, ultimately twisted, china-white, plain behind, but beautifully spotted and blotched in front with purple and crimson. Lip three-lobed, deep violet. Summer months. Java. V. teres.— Leaves terete, about as thick as a turkey’s quill, and deep green. The flower-spike arises from the opposite side of the stem to the leaf, and is ascending, bearing a raceme of about seven flowers, which are upwards of four inches across. Sepals and petals oblong-obtuse, petals much the broader, soft rose-colour, with a paler border. Lip large, three-lobed, side lobes rolled over the column, middle lobe flat and spreading; disc yellow, veined with reddish-crimson, the margin rosy-purple. In the variety Andersonit the flowers are somewhat more brilliant in colour, and very freely produced. Spring and summer months. Northern India. V. tricolor.—This is at once a most beautiful and a most variable plant, in respect to the colour and markings of its flowers; some of the most distinct OKCHIDS. 137 have been named and recorded, the best of which are aurea, Dodgsonii, formosa, imsignis, Patersonii, planilabris, Schilleriana, Russelliana, Warneri. It is similar in habit to V. swavis. Racemes six to twelve-flowered. Sepals and petals pale yellow, or yellowish-white, blotched and spotted with crimson. Lip purple, streaked with white. Spring and sum- mer. Java. Vanilla.—A small genus of climbing Orchids, de- riving their name from the Spanish word vaina, ‘a sheath,” in reference to the shape of the seed-vessel, plants emit roots from the joints and attach themselves to trees much in the same manner as Ivy, and thus climb to the tops of the forest trees. The seed-pods of V. aromatica are largely used for flavouring ices and jellies, liqueurs, and for other domestic purposes; they are also used to perfume snuff, &c.; but very few species are de- serving notice from the horticultural point of view. The situation best adapted for Vanillas is a wall in a warm house, where they can be allowed to have a full amount of sunshine. Pot in peat and sphagnum moss, and drain well. Supply abundantly with water during the summer, and never allow them to suffer drought, though only just sufficient is requisite during winter to keep the stems and leaves from shrivelling. East Indian House. V. aromatica.—This species is more remarkable for its economic properties than for the beauty of its flower, although the best Vanilla of commerce is the produce of V. planifolia, It grows and fruits freely in this country. Stems terete, fleshy, and deep green, bearing alternate, oblong, succulent, dark green leaves. Flowers thick and fleshy, in short racemes. Sepals and petals oblong-acute, nearly equal, spreading, greenish-white. Lip entire, and bearded at the base, leaving the column naked. Seed-pod cylindrical and fleshy. full of small black seeds, which yield a grateful perfume. Brazil. UY, é ij These i | i lily \ OV, t, Hille | lf} | ulin YL. WaRREA CANDIDA (enlarged). V. lutescens.—This species is an exception to the majority of the members of the genus, whose flowers are usually aull-coloured and inconspicuous. It is somewhat rare, but sufficiently showy to induce the lovers of this order to find a place for it, as the racemes bear six to twelve flowers, each measuring about six inches in diameter, of a uniform rich golden-yellow. Summer months. French Guiana. V. Phalenopsis.—A large-flowered and handsome species, at present rare in cultivation. Flowers pro- duced in umbels of from three to seven, each some two to three inches across. Sepals and petals pure white, green at the back, Lip large, soft rose, | \ ae inside rich velvety- | : f orange. Madagascar. ii fe] \ | f | A J Warrea.—A ge- ? j nus named in honour of Mr. F. Warre, a collector of plants in Brazil; they are for the most part very showy and handsome, but have very little to distinguish them from Huntleya. These plants have small, or no pseudo- bulbs, consequently must not be sub- jected to a drying- off. Plant them in peat. and sphagnum, with a few nodules of charcoal, drain the pots well, and water freely when growing. Brazi- lan House. W. bidentata.—Leaves strongly veined or plaitcd, deep green. Flowers solitary, large. Sepals and petals soft cream-colour. Lip bidentate at top, with a curious elevated lamella, rich deep purple. Spring months. Peak of Tolima, New Grenada, at 4,000 feet elevation. ‘W. candida.—These plants are all similar in growth; it attains a height of about ten inches. -Peduncle two or three-flowered. Sepals and petals oblong-acute, pure white. Lip broad, purple in the centre, shading into blue at the margin, whilst the base is white, with a few streaks of red. It blooms at various seasons. Bahia. W. cyanea.—Although introduced over forty years ago this is still a rare plant, which is much to be regretted, as it is one of the few Orchids with a bit 138 of pure blue in it. Sepals and petals pure white. _Lip roundish-apiculate, deep blue. Summer months. Columbia. W. discolor.— Leaves narrower than is usual in these plants. Peduncle supporting a solitary flower. Sepals and petals white, tinged with purple, the latter being broader. Lip convolute, deep purple on the disc, passing into white on the margin, raised crest at the base white. Spring months. Central America. W. quadrata.— Peduncle one-flowered. Sepals oblong-ovate, pale yellow, tipped with green; petals same size, clear yellow. Liprolled over the column, spreading in front, purple in the centre, toothed at the base, where it is tinged with violet. Summer months. Ocana. W. Wailesiana.—This species is one-flowered, with the fragrance of the Sweet Pea. Sepals and petals cream-colour. Lip roundish in front, somewhat wedge-shaped at the base, delicate violet along the centre; the crest at the base consists of fine violet longitudinal tubercles, which are only attached at the base. Spring months. Brazil. Warscewiczella.—A small genus named in honour of M. Warscewicz, a celebrated botanical collector ; they are very nearly allied to Warrea, and require the same treatment. Brazilian House. W. marginata.—This is a handsome plant, quite destitute of pseudo-bulbs, but producing broad, strongly-ribbed leaves, which imbricate at the base. Peduncle one-flowered, shorter than the leaves, Sepals and petals all turned back, pure white, tinged with straw-colour in some varieties. Lip large, spread wide open, rolled over the column at the base, pale yellow, with an uninterrupted broad marginal border of rich crimson. It blooms at various seasons. New Grenada. Zygopetalum.—A somewhat extensive family, containing numerous very handsome species. The name is derived from zygos, “a yoke,” and petalon, and refers to the peculiar joining together of the sepals and petals at the base. These plants should be potted in rough peat and sphagnum moss; they should be thoroughly well drained, as they enjoy an abundant supply of water during the growing season; when this is completed very little will suffice, as their large and stout pseudo-bulbs enable them to withstand drought with impunity. Brazilian House. 4. aromaticum.—This species is less robust than the others; the flowers measure about four inches across, Sepals and petals oblong-acute, the former the larger, pale green. Lip large and flat, cordate in front, crenate on the edge, centre deep blue, CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. with a broad white margin, crested at the base: Winter months. Central America. Z. Mackaii.—pseudo-bulbs large and ovate, bear- ing numerous long strap-shaped leaves, which are strongly ribbed and deep green. Scape erect and many-flowered. Sepals and petals green, trans- versely barred with brown. Lip large and spreading, lilac, streaked and netted with lines of blue, The variety crinitum is a dwarfer plant, with flowers equally large, but slightly paler, and fringed with numerous black tubercles. Autumn and winter months, lasting long in full beauty. Brazil. Z. maxillare.—This species thrives admirably on the stem of a Tree Fern, and when thus treated displays its beauty to the greatest advantage. Stem ascending; the pseudo-bulbs are somewhat small, indeed the whole plant is dwarf. Sepals and petals yellowish-green, and stained with brown towards the base, Lip thick and fleshy, deep rich blue. Winter and spring months. Brazil. Z. rostratum.—Whole plant dwarf, flower large. Sepals and petals yellowish-green. Lip large and spreading, upwards of two inches across, white, streaked and lined with rosy-pink. Autumn and spring months. Demerara. TREES AND SHRUBS. By GEORGE NICHOLSON. Clethra — the Sweet Pepper-bush, or White Alder of the North-eastern United States—is repre- sented in British gardens by a couple of handsome, hardy, deciduous species. C. alnifolia has upright panicled racemes of handsome fragrant white flowers ; it forms a shrub three to ten feet high. C. aewminata has solitary drooping racemes, and is a taller plant, sometimes attaining tree stature. Both like a damp spot in peaty soil. Colutea arborescens—the Bladder Senna of Southern Europe, &c.—is a deciduous shrub, with pin- nate leaves and yellow Pea-shaped flowers, followed by large bladder-like pods. C. eruenta is a similar plant, with reddish-tinted flowers. Both are quick- growing, and succeed well in dry gravelly spots, or on banks where few other shrubs would thrive. Cornus.—There are about twenty-five species of the genus Cornus, all natives of north temperate and sub-tropical regions. C. florida, one of the North American species, is very beautiful when in flower, by reason of the very large pure white bracts. C. mas, the Cornelian Cherry, has small clustered yellow flowers, which open from February to April, TREES AND SHRUBS. 139 succeeded by beautiful Cherry-like fruits; it is a native of Europe. A garden form, with silvery- variegated leaves, variegata, and another, marked with creamy-white, and tinged with red, elegantissima, are two excellent foliage shrubs. C. stolonifera has the annual shoots of a bright red purple colour, which renders the leafless plant a conspicuous object in the shrubbery during the winter months. All the Cornuses may be propagated from seed, or by layering, and the variegated ones may be grafted on the stronger-growing green-leaved species. Cotoneaster.—Of this genus of Rosacee about fifteen well-marked species are known, and these are natives of Europe, North Africa, temperate Asia, and Mexico. A considerable number of forms exist of some of these. C. vulgaris, frigida, and Simonsii are the best of the deciduous species; and buxifolia, microphylla, and thymifolia of the evergreen ones. C. vulgaris is interesting on account of its being one of the rarest of our native plants, as it is confined to limestone cliffs on the Great Orme’s Head, but it is common on the Continent; it has round, shortly- stalked leaves, and shining globose red fruit. C. frigida, a Himalayan species, is a robust-growing tree, with large cymose clusters of scarlet fruits ; in winter this is one of the most beautiful of berry- bearing shrubs or trees. C. Simonsii, the origin of which is not known with any degree of certainty, is believed to be also Himalayan. It has glossy dark green pointed leaves, about an inch long, and scarlet top-shaped fruits, borne singly, or in pairs, from the axils of the leaves of the short-jointed lateral branches. C. buxifolia has Box-like leaves, dark green, glossy above and woolly beneath. It does well treated as an ordinary shrub; if allowed to develop at will, when planted in masses, it soon forms an almost impenetrable thicket. C. micro- phylla is valuable for covering walls, banks, &c. ; it has crowded, small, oblong, dark green shining leaves, and dull red, roundish or top-shaped fruit. (©. thymi- folia is a pretty, small-growing, prostrate creeper, with narrower, dull (not glossy) pale green leaves. This, and the two preceding species, are Himalayan. Cratzeegus.—The common Hawthorn, or May (C. Oxyacantha), furnishes an excellent example of the genus Crategus, of which there are about fifty species, most being hardy flowering trees or shrubs of considerable beauty, both in flower and fruit. The varieties of our native Whitethorn are very numerous, and include single and double white, pink, and scarlet flowers; in habit, too, there are widely-differing forms—viz., tortwosa, with twisted, erect branches; pendula, with weeping ones, &c. C. coccinea, the Scarlet-fruited Thorn of the Northern United States, is a quick small tree, extremely ornamental, either when covered with its corymbs of large white flowers, or laden with the large bright red fruits. C. cordata, or the Washington Thorn, is a neat-growing, small tree, with glossy-stalked leaves and many-flowered corymbs; this is interest- ing as being the last of all the cultivated Thorns to flower; it lasts nearly to the end of July. C. Crus- galli, the Cockspur Thorn, is another North Ameri- can species, with glossy leaves, handsome fruits, and formidable curved spines ; there are numerous forms, varying in the shape of the leaf, &c. C. melanocarpa is not unlike C. Oxyacantha in general aspect, but the fruits are black; it is a native of Tauria, &c. C. Pyracantha, the Evergreen Thorn, a native of South Europe, rarely produces its beautiful fruits in anything like abundance except it is treated as a wall plant. C. P. Lelandi is « garden form, which fruits freely in a young state. C. tanacetifolia has deeply- cut, greyish, Tansy-like leaves, and large, yellowish, Medlar-like fruits; it is a native of the Levant, and one of the most distinct of the cultivated Thorns. Cytisus.—There are about two-score species in this genus as it is now understood, but not many are worthy of special mention here. C. albus, the White Spanish Broom, is one of the best of hardy shrubs, flowering in May; the common British Broom, C. Scoparius, is also well worth a place in the garden. C. nigricans is a free-flowering shrub, with trifolio- late leaves, and erect, elongated, terminal racemes of golden-yellow flowers ; it is a European species, from three to six feet high, and is perfectly hardy. C. purpureus is a beautiful Alpine shrub, with glabrous obovate leaflets, and flowers (usually borne in pairs in the axils of the small leaves) rosy-purple, white, or dull purple in colour; as a rule this is grafted on the common Laburnum. Dabeocia.—The only member of this genus is D. polifolia, St. Dabeoc’s Heath, a native of Western Europe—in the British Islands being only found in the boggy heaths of Connemara and Mayo. Itis a pretty evergreen shrub, one or two feet high, with shortly-stalked oval leaves, bright green and glossy above, and white woolly beneath; the urn-shaped flowers are borne in erect terminal racemes, and vary in colour from crimson-purple to white. In _ one of the garden forms, versicolor, purple and white flowers, and others intermediate between the two, are produced by the same plant. Dabeocia thrives in a damp peat border, and makes a charming com- panion plant to the hardy Heaths. Daphne. — About fifty species of Daphne are known to botanists, and perhaps about half that 140 number are in cultivation. All hail from temperate regions of the Old World. D. alpina, from the Euro- pean Alps, is a pretty dwarf evergreen, with white or rose-coloured deliciously fragrant flowers. JD. Blagayana, a rather recent introduction from the mountains of Eastern Europe, has dense heads of somewhat large fragrant flowers. D. Cneorwm, with bright pink scented flowers, is an evergreen trailer ; this, as well as the two preceding species, hardly attains a foot in height. The first flowers from May to July, andthe second and thirdin April. D. collina is an erect hardy evergreen, two to three feet high, with silky pinkish flowers, and blunt oblong-ovate leaves, shining above and woolly beneath; it is a native of Southern Europe. D. Genkivais a hand- some Japanese species, with purple flowers springing -from the slender leafless branches in April. JD. lawreola, the Spurge Laurel of the British flora, is .an evergreen two or three feet high, with leathery leaves some four or five inches long, and clusters of greenish-yellow flowers appearing from January to April; it generally affects stiff soils, and thrives well under the shade of trees. D. Pontica, a species from Asia Minor, is very similar to D. lawreola, but differs in its ight green leaves and deeper yellow flowers ; these two are frequently used as stocks whereon to graft the smaller-growing rarer kinds. D. Mezereum, a deciduous shrub, with very fragrant red or white flowers, which open from February until April, is a popular old-fashioned plant, which thrives under various conditions as regards soil, but appears to do best in a good stiff loam. All the other Daphnes above mentioned like a well-drained, moist, peaty border. Desmodium pendulifiorum is the garden name for the very handsome Sespedeza bicolor. It has trifoliolate leaves and long drooping racemes of beautiful purple-red Pear-shaped flowers; it attains a height of about six feet, and should be attached to a stake in good rich ground, so that its graceful habit and wealth of richly-coloured flowers may be seen to best advantage. = Rhapis.—Small- growing Fan Palms, nearly related to Cha- Their small size and elegant appearance render them very useful for decorative purposes. The walking-sticks called ‘*Ground Rattans”’ are the produce of this genus. M@VOps. R. flabelliformis — stem slender, the petioles very thin, enclosed at the base in a network of black fibres: leaves flabellate. The plants attain their true character when only a few inches high, and their leaves remain on almost to the base of the stem when even six or seven feet high. China and Japan. ; R. flabelliformis variegata—this is a somewhat slow-growing form; the flabellate leaves are alternately streaked with yellow, green, and white. Japan. R: humilis—in general habit this does not differ from the preceding; the leaves, however, are much handsomer, more fan-shaped, and the segments pendulous ; intense deep green. Sabal.—aA bold-growing family of Palms with gigantic fan-leaves, and in some instances very stout 328 stems, all from the Western Hemisphere, and almost rivalling their Eastern relatives, the Coryphas. These plants are very hardy, and are extremely useful for any purpose where bold foliage is desired. S. Blackburniana—a mag- niticent species, with stout, erect stem, thirty feet or more high, bear- ing an immense crown | of very large, almost cir- | | plant resembles the last- named in all respects saving colour. The leaves of this are not glaucous, but deep green; neither is the point of attach- ment white. West In- dies. cular leaves. W. Indies. T. wumbraculifera — this Sagus.—This is the Malayan name for “ bread,” and is given by them to some Palms that yield sago, which is the soft inner part of the stems of these plants. The trees which produce the finest sagos of our shops are S. /evis and S. Rumphii, sometimes called Metrorylon. ‘There are other Palms, however, which yield sago, but not of such good quality, nor in such quantity. Naturally they grow in swamps, and must be abundantly supplhed with water to develop and support them in perfection. It re- quires about three years to ripen the fruit, which are covered with large, hard, imbricating scales, shining as if polished. S. filiare (Metroxylon)—a somewhat slender - grow- ing species ; the stem and petioies are profusely armed with long, slender, needle-like spines. Indiau Archipelago. S. levis (Metroxvlon)—this is the smooth Sago Patm, and the kind which yields the largest quantity. Stems stout, smooth, saving the old remnants of the Jeaf-stalk, whicao often give it a rough appearance; twenty to thirty feet high, or more; leaves broad, somewhat usually as long as the stem, so that a _ tree twenty feet high would have a leat twenty feet long; specimens of the leaves have been sent home upwards of forty feet Jong. Indian Archi- pelago. S. Rumphii (Metroxylon)— a dwarfer plant, with the same habit and appear- ance as the preceding species, saving that the petioles are armed with stout spines an inch long. It bears a crown of beau- tiful plume-like leaves, erect, pinnate; these re- which are somewhat semble splendid dark arched and _ spreading. green feathers, and are Indian Archipelago. Stevensonia.—This name was given to the only species yet discovered, to commemorate the kindness and warm interest taken by Governor Stevenson in all scientific adventures and explorations. ‘The plant was sent from the Mauritius under the MS. name of Stevensonia grandifolia, to that prince of botanists, and thorough English gentleman, Sir William Hooker, then Director of the Royal Gardens at Kew. There are an immense number of small islands between the Mauritius and the Sey- chelles, far too small to be shown upon any map, and yet they nearly all have some plant peculiar to them. To these islands Mr. Duncan, of the Botanic Gardens in the Mauritius, directed his researches, ably backed by the then Governor of the Mauritius and its dependencies, Stevenson, and the result was the discovery of many of the handsomest Palms we have CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. in cultivation, besides numerous other plants found to be new. A mishap, however, befell one of these plants after its arrival in England, and it was found on the Continent under the name of Asfro- caryum aureopunctatum, but as it was quite a new genus it obtained in Germany the name of Pheni- cophorium, or Stolen Palm, or Thief Palm. S. grandifolia—a magnifi- ; the young leaves when cent stove Palm, but too | unfolding are of a rich much a lover of heat to | coppery-orange, changing allow of its use for any with age to deep greeu. other decorative purposes. It is without exception Stem stout, and with the the most majestic Palm sheathing petioles densely ever introduced to this armed with very long, Seychelle Is- black, needle-like spines, some four inches long; | NS) leaves entire, with a deeply bilobed apex, much plaited, six to ten feet in length, the edges regularly split into acuminate seg- ments, deep green, pro- fusely spotted over its entire surface with orange- coloured spots; the pe- tioles are dull orange, and country. lands. i graudifolia, var. viridi- folia—this is a form which has originated from im- ported seeds ; it is desti- tute of the orange-col- oared spots on the leaves, and the petioles also are green; in other respects the plants are identical. Seychelle Islands, Thrinax.—A genus of handsome small-growing, fan-leaved Palms; indeed, their name comes from the shape of the leaves, and signifies a fan. The genus is distinguished by its flowers having a six-parted calyx, destitute of a corolla, stamens varying from six to twelve, joined at the base, and a funnel-shaped stigma. ‘The various species are all handsome, and sufficiently hardy to withstand cool treatment. T. arborea—stem slender; petioles supporting a large fan-leaf, deeply divided into narrow segments, up- wards of two feet across. West Indies. T. graminifolia—a slender- growing and handsome plant, with long and thin petioles long and thin; the fan-leaf some three feet across, divided at the margin into long pendu- lous segments, bright green above, the reverse side silvery-white. Cen- tral America. T. radiata—stem swollen at petioles; leaves fan- base; petioles slender, shaped, divided into nar- about two feet long, and row segments, bright dull orange-yellow, en- green above, with a glan- cous tinge on under side. T. multiflora—a superb plant, attaining a height of twenty feet; stem slender; closed at the base in a network of fibres; leaves nearly circular, upwards of two feet across. West Indies, Verschaffeltia.—This genus is named in honour of Ambrose Verschaffelt, a Belgian nurseryman, and a great cultivator of Palms. It forms a stem quickly, and rises above the ground upon an inverted cone ot roots in the manner of the Rasp Palms (Jriartea). Magnificent stove plants, but rather too tender for general purposes of decoration. For treatment see Stevensonia. V. melanochetes — stem cylindrical, stout, and elothed with long, slen- der, black spines: leaves, when young, entire, some four feet long, plaited. Seychelle Islands, V. splendida — this grand species has a slender stem and, like the sheathing petioles, it is densely armed with long, needle- like, black spines, two to six feet in length, plaited, and deeply bifid at the apex. Seychelle Islands. PROPAGATION. Welfia.—The name is a transformation from “Guelph,” and the genus includes a few small- growing and extremely handsome plants; they are _ useful for table decoration in a very young state, and are beautiful ornaments at any time. W. Georgii—stem slender, | destitute of spines ; leaves | pinnate; leaflets sessile. Costa Rica. W. Regia—this is a more leaves, with pendent leaf- lets; when young the entire leaf and petiole is rich, bright crimson, which gradually fades slender species; whole | away to bright, shining plant smooth, bearing | green. New Grenada. long, pinnate, arching PROPAGATION. THE FORMATION OF VARIETIES. By JOHN FRASER. HE phenomena of fertilisation, the construction of flowers, and their adaptation to the require- ments of insects, have been treated of under the head of Fertilisation, Vol. III., pp. 187-192. To provide for the accomplishment of this act, nature furnishes many and varied means, a few of which have already been mentioned. Having learned the importance of fertilisation, and knowing also that our improved fruits, flowers, and vegetables have been remoulded from the parent wildings, to please the fancy or mect the necessities of man, we are all the more encouraged to enter this wide field of labour, where there is unlimited scope for ourabilities, and plastic nature, so to speak, is in our hands. Nature herself brings about changes and improve- ments ; but some of her handiworks have taken ages for their accomplishment, whereas man, on scientific principles, and by careful intelligent working, can bring about marvellous results in a comparatively short time. Furthermore, natural productions are fitted to compete with other plants, and perpetuate ._ their existence, in that part of the world where created. On the other hand, artificially created plants, or those produced by the agency of man, require his assistance for their propagation, dissemi- nation, and preservation, in proportion to the extent they differ from the original wilding. As the chief aim of the gardener and hybridist is to improve existing varieties, or produce new forms, this wide subject may be considered under the fol- lowing three headings :— I. Hybridisation, or the crossing of species and oenera. Il. The intercrossing of varieties. IIT. Selection. I. Hybridisation.—The art of hybridisation, when applied to the intercrossing of species or even 329: genera, is not only more fascinating, but opens up a far wider field of unexplored territory, and requires even more intelligence to conduct it properly, than the mere crossing of varieties. The difference, however, between species and varieties is merely one of degree, and quite arbitrary, made to suit the convenience of botanists. This was recognised at least as early as the days of Herbert, whose leading idea, nevertheless, was that every species that would hybridise with another should be included in the same genus. But we have now authentic records of numerous bigeneric hybrids, and on the other hand, find that in some instances it is as difficult to hy-- bridise varieties as it is good recognised species. This is notably the case in dimorphic and trimorphic- flowers of the same species, the latter represented by Lythrum salicaria, and the former by Primula, as- well as others to the number of forty genera scat- tered through various natural orders. Granted that we keep within a certain degree of systematic relationship, the other obstructions. that bar the way to freedom of intercrossing, and fertility of the offspring, are chiefly to be found in differences affecting the reproductive elements, and the changes they have undergone during many suc- cessive generations, while acting independently of one another. For instance, of two species with pollen very different in size, the pollen-tubes of the smaller grains would be able to penetrate the larger- canalled style, while the hybridist would be unable to. obtain a reciprocal cross from the same two species, by reason of the larger pollen-grains being unable to penetrate the narrow passages of the style. The different lengths of style will also offer obstacles to the pollen in attempting to reach the ovule. In the case of the Strawberry, Fragaria, the flowers are polygamous-dicecious, either functionally or- morphologically, or both, and proterogynous, that is, the pistil matures first. This is a great assist- ance to the hybridist, enabling him to remove the stamens before shedding their pollen. Fragaria vesca presents serious difficulties in forming a union either with Hautbois or the American species. Such a stock would be desirable, because thoroughly inured to our climate. Hautbois is generally uni- sexual, and supposed to have originated from F. vesca. To be able to infuse its pecuhar and agree- able flavour into a stock worth cultivating would be- an acquisition. Williams, of Pitmaston, succeeded in effecting the first cross, but the fruit of the- resulting progeny was almost invariably seedless, a notable instance of the pollen affecting the fleshy receptacle, and yet lacking the physiological poten- tiality of producing an embryo. JF. Virginiana, Chiliensis, and grandiflora, belonging to widely separated parts of America, intercross with the: 330 CASSELI?S greatest. freedom under domestication, and the re- sulting progeny is perfectly fertile. The method of procedure is simple. First of all, carefully remove the stamens of the plant to be operated upon, procure pollen from an older flower of the intended male parent, and having applied it to the pistil of the flower to be operated on, with a camel’s-hair pencil, cover the flower with fine net- ting to prevent any further access of pollen. The genus osa includes about thirty good spe- cies, but so variable are they, even in a state of nature, that authors entertain extreme opinions as to the number that ought to be admitted as species. About two hundred and fifty are enumerated, and many would find no difficulty in augmenting the list to double that number. Du Hamel says that ‘‘nature appears scarcely to have placed any dif- ference between the different species of Rose; and if it is already very diflicult to define the wild species, which have not yet been modified by culture, it is almost impossible to refer to their original type the numerous varieties which culture has made in the fiowers of species already so nearly resembling each other.’”’? If we comprehend the full meaning of this extract, there will be little difficulty in under- standing why the numerous forms offer such facili- ties for the almost indiscriminate intercrossing known to exist under cultivation. ‘The stamens are exceedingly numerous in many series, and come to maturity at the same time as the pistil. The styles are also numerous and collected in a bundle just protruding from the throat of the calyx, or projecting beyond it some distance in a single column, as in R. Brunonii, and our native R. arvensis : most favour- able conditions for the success of the hybridist. When about to hybridise two species, select the earliest and best flowers, and carefully protect them from insect or other intruders, even for some time previous to their expansion. As soon as this hap- pens, remove the stamens immediately from the in- tended seed-bearer, and apply the pollen of the male parent, when the stigmas are in a receptive condition. Protect as before until all danger of foreign pollen taking effect 1s over. Notwithstanding the fact that about one hundred and seventy species of Pelargonium are known, the cultivated varieties at present grown are the descen- dants of four or five original species. This is the more remarkable, considering the varied and endless diversity of habit and foliage to be found in the genus. The bedding or zonal section have been ob- tained from the numerous interbred progeny_of P. zonale and P. inguinans ; the Ivy-leaved section from P. peltatwm, and the show and fancy varieties from P. cucullatum. ‘The flowers of the genus are proterandrous, that is, the anthers are ripe before POPULAR GARDENING. the stigma, each containing ten stamens, of which seven are fertile, rarely fewer. When the anthers are mature and about to shed their pollen, they occupy a central position, while the pistil is scarcely at all visible. One by one the anthers shed their pollen and drop away. The pistil now develops, and when the five radiating stigmas have fully ex- panded, a velvety-looking, or pubescent line, along the upper or inner face of each, proclaims that they are ready for fertilisation. The operator will now see that the flowers to be pollenised must be of different ages, that is, the pollen to fertilise any given flower must be obtained from a younger, or one just expanded. There are exceptions to. this rule, however, in some of the pale-flowered mongrels of P. zonale and inguinans, where the pistil tends to early maturity, and being short, is fertilised by its own pollen. ‘This is very evident in the variety Christine, which persistently sets itself freely, especially when planted out of doors. The careful hybridist, however, will take measures in advance of this, and remove the anthers as well as protect the flowers at an early date. He will also carefully tabulate or label the flowers operated’ upon, for future reference. The vast order of Orchids, containing some four or five thousand well-marked species, is becoming yearly of more engrossing importance, not only from a popular, but a scientific point of view. The hy- bridisation of Orchids is only in its infancy, but unfortunately there is little prospect of its ever becoming so universally practised in gardens as on many popular florists’ flowers, not merely on ac- count of their value, but their slow rate of increase, and the difficulty of rearing them in our compara- tively sunless winter seasons. The art is by no means so difficult to learn as would at first sight appear, although the natural process is often very complicated indeed, and sometimes almost inexplic- able. The extraordinary construction of an Orchid presents the most serious difficulty. The segments of the perianth, known as sepals, petals, and labellum, six in number, present endless modifica- tions in shape, direction, and colour ; but the column, consisting of the amalgamated style and six stamens, is even more disguised in its homologies with the same parts in other flowers. The ways and means by which the members of these different groups are fertilised in a state of nature are extremely numerous and often com- plicated. In effecting artificial hybridisation, how- ever, all that is necessary is to remove the pollinia from the anther-cells, and transfer them to the viscid stigma of the intended female parent. The chief difficulty attending the operation is the incon- PROPAGATION. 331 venience of getting at the pollinia, or in applying them to the stigma, without injury or seriously manipu- lating the flowers operated upon, when the sexual organs are deeply seated in a narrowly tubular perianth as in Masdevallia amabilis, M. Veitchii, and those species of Cattleya or Lelia where the column les almost or quite close on the labellum. ‘The readiest means in the latter case would be to depress the labellum with one hand, and apply the pollinia with the other. A small, neatly-pointed forceps, or pencil-like instrument, with which to remove the pollinia from one flower and apply them to another, would be convenient. In the case of Vanilla, some manipulation is necessary in order to effect fertilisa- tion, but on the other hand, Oncidiwm, Odontoglossum, together with many of the finest genera, offer the greatest facilities for performing the operation. Amongst Orchids, perhaps, there is no more re- markable case than that of Cuatasetum. The rostellum is prolonged into two slender, sensitive processes known as antennz, which, when touched, have the power of rupturing the anther, and the strongly-elastic pedicles of the pollinia straightening themselves, eject the pollen-masses with considerable force. The object here is to secure the pollinia and prevent their being lost. The flowers of the genus are male, female, and hermaphrodite. The females are devoid of antenne, and the viscid stigma is large and easily accessible. The pollinia are re- markable for the enormous size of their gland, by which they attach themselves to whatever object, insect or otherwise, they happen to strike when ejected from the anther-cases. The great object in all these elaborate contri- vances, and the highly modified organs in the whole Orchid order, is to secure the safe transfer of the pollen from one flower to another, with the least possible loss, which means conservation of energy. The pollen, moreover, is valuable on account of the quantity required to fertilise the thousands of ovules present in the ovary. A small, but not the least important group, the Cypripedie, includes the remaining genera of the order. Here, in opposition to all the other groups, the stigmatic surface is convex and dry, while the glutinous and granulose pollen effects the union or adhesion of one to the other, aided, no doubt, by the roughness or looseness of the tissue of the stigma itself. The slipper of Cypripedium is another splendid piece of mechanism or contrivance, by which fertilisation is insured in one of two ways, according to the direction an insect inserts its proboscis, so as to fertilise it with its own pollen, or failing that, to carry the pollen to another. There are two fertile anthers belonging to an inner series of three in this group, and owing to their position at an opening near the base of the labellum, they are readily accessible and removable, when, by gently depressing the labellum of the same or another flower it 1s intended to fertilise, the convex inner surface of the stigma, which lies immediately behind the staminode, can easily be reached so as to apply the pollen. How and when to fertilise are vital points of practice that only considerable experience can solve. The flowers of Orchids remain a long time in a fertilisable condition, and they attain this state shortly after they are fully expanded. The general appearance, together with the odour arising from fragrant species, the viscidity of the stigmatic disc, and the readily removable pollinia, are all distinctive marks that fertilisation may be effected. If this has happened it will very soon be indicated by the early fading of the perianth. It does sometimes, though not frequently, happen.that the pollinia are removed by insects in our hot-houses, consequently the careful hybridist will protect the fertilised flowers till all danger from the possible access of other pollen is averted, and at the same time accurately tabulate his experiments. The following extracts are from a valuable paper read by Mr. H. J. Veitch at the Orchid Conference, held at South Kensington, Wednesday, May 13th, 1885. “It was Mr. John Harrts,a surgeon ot Exeter, who suggested to Dominy the possibility of muling Orchids, and who pointed ont to him the repro- ductive organs situated in the column, and showed that the application of the rollinia to the stigmatic surface was analogous to the dusting of the stigma of other flowers with pollen. This simple fact being once fairly grasped, the work of fertilisation pro- ceeded apace. The flowers of showy species of Cattleya, Lelia, Calanthe, &c., were fertilised with the pollinia of other species, and even the flowers of supposed different, but of course allied genera, were also operated upon in the same way. Capsules were produced in abundance, which in due course proved their maturity by dehiscing, and thus the long and anxiously desired seed was at length at hand. «« Among Cypripeds some very curious facts have been elicited through muling. Thus, the East Indian species cross freely with each other, and a numerous progeny has resulted therefrom. The South Ameri- can species, the Selenipedia, as they are called, --also cross freely with each other, and many new forms have been obtained; the hybrids in both sections flower within a few years of the seed being sown. But in the case of the crossing of Indian with South American species, the process has been much slower in producing results. An infinitely smaller percentage of the seed germinates, and those 302 seedlings that survive are so slow in arriving at the flowering stage, that up to the present time not a single plant has produced a flower, although the plants continue strong and healthy in appearance, and increase in size every year. One thing is certain, the three-celled ovary of the Selenipeds offers no impediment to the fertilisation by the pellinia of Cypripeds with a one-celled ovary, for we have plants raised from C. eaudatum and C. barbatwmn, and many other like crosses between other species have yielded seed. “ (, Sedeni was a remarkable cross in many respects ; it was, in fact, raised from two crosses—C. Schlimit and C. longifolium, and the same two vice versd. It will be observed that in this case one of the parents, C. longifolium, is much mere robust in habit and erowth than the other parent, C. Schlimu. No perceptible difference was observed between the plants raised from the two separate crosses: they agreed in habit, foliage, colour of flower, in fact in every particular. No such similar result has been obtained by us amongst Cypripeds: a vice versd cross between the same two species, produces seed- lings that vary more or less from those produced from the first cross. Thus C. tessellatum resulted from C. barbatun and (. concolor, and C. tessellatum porphyrium from C. concolor and 0. barbatum. We have also an instance of two recognised species, each being crossed by a third, but both crosses producing like results. Thus C. longifoliumand C. Schlimii, and C, Roezlii and C. Schlimii, produced seedlings whose flowers are indistinguishable from each other, although, as might be expected, the foliage of the C. Roezhi progeny is, like that of its parents, the more robust of the two ; hence the specific rank of C. Roezlii is very questionable. “¢ Not only do recognised species of each section, East Indian and South American, cross freely inter se, but the hybrids also cross freely with them. The beautiful C. enanthum superbum has for its parents the (. Harrisanum, itself a hybrid, and C. insigne Maulei. As regards the habits and foliage of hybrid Cypripeds, the progeny usually takes a form inter- mediate between the two parents, but sometimes it is more robust than either. ‘‘T may here state that the late Mr. Bentham, when working up the Orchids for the ‘ Genera Plantarum,’ must, I think, have been misinformed when he states under Miltonia vexillarum, p. 568, that ‘fide hortulanorum facile cum Odontoglossis varrvis nee eum Miltoniis genus proles hybridus gignunt. Our ex- perience is the very opposite of this. J. vexillariun crosses readily with the flat-lipped I/i/tonias and spec- tabilis, although thus far we have failed to raise any progeny from these crosses, but not with true Odon- toglots ; often as it has been attempted, no capsules CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. are produced. Thus while our experience in muling amongst Odontoglots goes far to disprove the state- ment [ have just quoted, itat the same time confirms unmistakably Mr. Bentham’s view as to the proper generic place of vexillarium and its allies, Roezlii Phalenopsis, and Warscewiczii.”’ The question of bigeneric hybrids is an important one, and opens a wide field for inquiry, discussion, and experiment. It is less practicable, more un- certain in result, and in short becomes more and more impossible as we progress from the equator towards the poles of relationship in plants. Some are sceptical enough to deny the possibility of pro- ducing asingle bigeneric hybrid. Dean Herbert be- lieved that all species capable of intercrossing belonged to the same originally created genus; and the views. of many modern workers in the same field, if they do not exactly coincide, run nearly in the same channel. But, considering that genera are often as artificial and arbitrary as are species, it is simply impossible to lay down a definite law or limit, up to which and beyond which hybridisation cannot be effected. The whole thing depends on the amount of differen- tiation in the sexual or reproductive elements. Dean Herbert himself (and Darwin had a similar experience) found within the limits of the same genus (Crinum for instance) a scale of productiveness amongst intercrossed species, ranging from perfect fertility to perfect sterility. The same results accrue in the crossing of varieties in some instances, and individuals or the di-tri-morphic forms of species frequently present the same or greater unwillingness to interbreed than do forms which we are bound to recognise as good species if we are to retain the latter term in classification at all. Thus we may safely conclude that genera, species, and varieties merely differ in degree, not in kind ; that our delimitation of them, im the truest sense of the word, is artificial, arbitrary and of convenience, and that nature lays down no hard and fast lines, such as the botanist or naturalist would fain concoct for their classification purposes. The reputed bigeneric hybrids are few, and some of them may be reviewed for the purpose of defining what is meant by the term. Sericobonia Penrhosiensis was obtained by crossing Zibonia floribunda with Sericographis Ghiesbreghtiana, producing a plant very much dwarfed in stature, with feeble diffuse branches and larger flowers than the female parent, with the colour of the male. A batch of seedlings have recently been raised between Cyrtanthus sanguineus flammeus and JVallota purpurea. The latter is the pollen parent, and the mule has foliage similar to it. The flowers have the bent tube of the Cyrtanthus, and spreading segments as in the male, while the colour is variable PROPAGATION. 333 in different seedlings. Some doubts are thrown on the parents, as to whether they constitute distinct genera; but the same uncertainty is applicable to Lapageria rosea and Philesia buxifolia, the parents ot Philageria Veitchii. The progeny is sufficiently un- productive and difficult to flower to warrant the belief in a wide separation of the sexual relationship of the parents. Amongst the Amaryllidacee we have a hybrid between Hymenocallis (Ismene) amances and Elisena longipetala, whose distinctness is suffi- ciently well authenticated. Calanthe Veitchw is a hybrid between Limatodes rosea and Calanthe vestita, but the parents are not reckoned good genera. With respect to bigeneric crosses amongst Orchids Mr. H. J. Veitch says, “Leaving the progeny derived from species of Cattleya and Lelia out of consideration, the last-named genus being confessedly an artificial one, only two bigeneric hybrids have yet flowered; these I have mentioned above—Phaius irroratus and P. i. purpureus. Many years ago Dominy raised