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KUBEN M1. CAMPOS
Chapultepec
| TS LEGEND AND ITS HISTORY
TRANSLATED BY LUIS BOZZO JR.
MEXICO, MCMXXII
ry
Ca
iS
sy SIOYAL palace of the Aztec kings, feudal castle of the
Viceroys, imperial mansion of the Emperors and
presidential residence of illustrious mandataries of the State, the Alcazar of Chapultepec is the most precious historic jewel in the crest of glory bound about the Republic. When the red men of Aztlan halted for the first time on the enchanted sum- mit that dominated the infinite savanah of the lakes of Anahuac,
they beheld in wonder the dream scenery of radiant waters held ~ elose in the inmense amphiteatre formed by peak over peak of mountains culminating gloriously with the fairy heights of the Popocatepetl and the Iztaccihuatl. In their picturesque and graphic language they named Anahuac, “by the water,” the region they beheld; the ridge their bronze feet trod they called Chapultepec, “orasshopper hill;” to the still burning volcano they gave the name of Popocatepetl, “smoking mount,” and to the graceful moun- tain covered by a shroud of snow, that of Iztaccihuatl “the white woman.”
Ineed, who has not climbed the upright precinct and has not seen the Valley from the summit where the Tall Knight of the Castle rises, like an arrow of Tenoch fallen from midsky, does not know the incomparable beauty of the Valley of Mexico. The cen-
—3—
CHAPULTEPEC—ITS LEGEND AND ITS HISTORY
turies and men have drained the inmensity of the lakes. The enor- mous growth of the modern city—that even now extends its glisten- ing roots of stone and iron towards the springs of the Ajusco and sprouts along the highways in nascent “colonias” that shall be bo- roughs far from the city center—has changed the surface of the mirror-like waters into cells of the inmense human hive that in the course of time shall be the great city of Mexico. The landscape keeps only a memory of the waters. None of the five lakes that were joined by highways exists now. But the seed—beds risen from the fertile swamps, and the woods, rich in trees, of the plateaux and the mountains, and the greenness of the river springs and the blueness of the distant mountains, give to the whole such majesty and poetry, that the evocation of our forbears, explorers of a virgin continent in successive invasions, rises in the uncontrolled imagination, and one understands the joy of the strong men of Aztlan at discovering this place of predestination that founded an era; and the living spirit of a race that still pursues its destinies is felt floating in the air.
The cliff of Chapultepec was discovered by the Toltecs in the year 1122 of our era. The Aztecs arrived there in 1245, and Tenoch, their priest, designated the hill to be the place where the first Tenochea clan should settle definitely in the Valley of Mexico. They crowded in its summit where they fortified themselves and built stone inclosures, sheltering themselves in an ample space, in order to repel the agressions ef the swarming lake-people that floated in light canoes and had seen in the sudden coming of the errant, un- known and temerary invaders, a fatal omen against their pa- triarchal life.
It was not long before the first clash occurred, and that first trial was adverse for the Aztecs. The historians state that the Az-
—4—
CHAPULTEPEC—ITS LEGEND AND ITS HISTORY
tecs were about to celebrate the feast of the new fire when they were surprised by the Tepanecas who surrounded and scaled the hill, where the first battle was fought. The Tenochcas were comple- tely defeated and subjugated by the superior numbers of Tepanecas.
Chapultepec marks the last stage of the Aztec pilgrimage be- fore the beardless, eagle-eyed, straight-haired Tenochcas took pos- session, in the name of their hero Tenoch, of the heart of the lakes; and it was there that they left, where on a rock-grown cactus an eagle devoured a serpent, the first stone of Tenoxtitlan, their defi- nite settlement. When the primitive city had been founded, whose centuries—perforating rootage deepened more and more in the mud, Chapultepec was made sacred by a temple raised upon the summit of the hill, since when it became the pleasure place of the Aztec kings. The first building erected there was constructed at the foot of the hill, and the first royalty to dwell in Chapultepec was Prince Net- zahualcoyotl.
Towards the close of 1428, Netzahualcoyotl, who had just con- quered the tyrannous Maxtla, king of Atzcapotzaleo—whom he slew with his own hands,—decided to dwell fora time among the Mexicans and expressed the desire of building a palace. The Mexicans has- tened to please him, for it is well known that the Prince, then at the height of his fortune, afterachildhood spent in fleeing from persecu- tion and a youth passed in wandering, was the idol of the Mexicans, and they asked him to choose the spot where he would wish to re- side. Netzahualcoyotl selected Chapultepec, and while his allies heaped all kinds of building material and put laborers to the task of constructing the palace, the Prince made a parenthesis in his many-risked, warring life, the most interesting and romance-like of our ancient history, and planted the ahuechuete (*) woods whose
(*) Ahnehuete means ‘‘water-aged tree.’’
—5—
CHAPULTEPEC—ITS LEGEND AND ITS HISTORY
still standing trees his royal hand set in the earth five centuries ago. The Chichimeca historians give him credit for the canalization of the reservoirs and for having constructed the first stone aqueduct, that supplied Mexico City with water until the coming of the Spaniards.
Other writers contend that in 1465 Axayacatl, who was King of Mexico, started the construction of an aqueduct to carry the water from the Chapultepec reservoirs to Tenochtitlan, and that the cons- truction work lasted a year. Not only Axayacatl but all the other Mexican Emperors as well, lived in Chapultepec, and in order to have a road for travelling they planned and constructed the high- way which still exists. At any rate, the aqueduct that brought the water to Mexico from the reservoirs, belongs to the time when Netza- hualcoyotl was guest of the Mexicans, and according to the data gathered by the historians, it was larger than the one reconstructed by Viceroy Bucareli, of which there remains to-day a stretch of twenty arches along Chapultepec Avenue. These arches, together with the two terminal fountains, one oppositethe southern entrance: of the forest and the other on the square called Salto de Agua (Water Fall), are kept as a historic monument. The water ran - through one of the two cement pipes; the other pipe was kept in a re- serve, should the first one become obstructed. Another aqueduct was reconstructed by Moctezuma II and existed upon the arrival of the Spaniards. It started from Chapultepec reservoirs and en- tered into the city through the arch way of Tlaxpana and San Cosme, the ruins of which exist to-day. The Marquis of Montes Claros also had an aqueduct constructed, along Chapultepec Ave- nue, which was finished in 1620.
For four centuries the Chapultepec reservoirs were famous, for they provided the City of Mexico with water. To-day they are closed, surrounded by iron railings and kept as a historic remembrance,
— 6§—
CHAPULTEPEC—ITS LEGEND AND ITS HISTORY
a token of gratitude for all the blessings that the use of their waters meant to the people. In the largest reservoirfrom which the city obtained most of its supply, an enormous amount of wealth was deposited during the reign of Moctezuma I, in the belief that this would calm down the anger of the water god while a terrible flood that caused great damages swept over Mexico. A well, running from the cave to the summit of the hill, was made by one of the governors of the castle in search of that treasure.
Due to the hardness of the stone the drilling of this well cost 60,000 pesos. It was drilled inside the chapel that existed at the crest in 1752. Desiring to reach the level of the waters, they worked day and night perforating the solid rock with rock-drills, searching for the treasure in every place through which the water that feeds the reservoir passed; but fearing to run the reservoir owing to the cracks in it caused in 1774, the work met with opposition, and was defi- nitely stopped in 1775.
In spite of this precaution, the supply of water in the reser- voirs continued to diminish until the end of last century, and it was then that the aqueduct of the Chapultepec high-way, today called Avenue of Chapultepec, was ordered to be destroyed. It was then necessary to seek other sources for obtaining the city’s water supply, for the old reservoir had been exhausted.
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eS) HE large reservoir called the Llorones, ‘“‘Weepers,”’
and which was one hundred rods in circunference,
was the property of the Count de Pejiasco. The reser- voir caJled Mocvtezuma, which supplied the largest amount of water to the city, has an extension of thirty rods and a depth of a little over seven. The third reservoir, where the public baths were instal- led which lasted for many years, was very large in extension, but shallow. This reservoir was called the Nadadores (Swimmers). The springs of three reservoirs are the same. In 1870 Moctezuma’s reser- voir, the highest of all, was emptied; by so doing the water level of the other two became lower, diminishing the flow of water from the city’s artesian wells. This fact proved that the three reservoirs were connected with each other. Upon noticing that the water supply from the Salto del Agua (Water Fall) was diminishing, a survey was made and it was discovered that the foundations in three of the walls of Moctezuma’s reservoir threatened to collapse. A new water outlet was met with; the bottom was drained, and upon surveying the subterranean aqueducts and while going through a hole ina wall, a shaft with a fork-like shape was found. One of its sides is straight and ends at a rock near which there are two great water- springs; the other one forms a curve which ends at a water tank
sack! Gans 2
CHAPULTEPEC—ITS LEGEND AND ITS HISTORY
of circular form, from where a large number of water-springs flow. It was seen that this reservoir is connected with the one called Llorones; and it was discovered that there existed in one of the subterranean rooms, a black stone on which the inscription “Year of MDLVIII” was carved. It was also discovered that the walls are erected over the water-springs, and that the gutters opened by leakage, were fothered with bags containing hydraulic mortar. The fall of the water from this reservoir caused the water level of the one called Nadadores, which is located outside of the old contours of the forest, to lower down considerably. Tradition says that when Moctezuma Illhuicamina’s last days were near, he ordered that his figure be carved next to that of his cousin Tlacaelel, on the perpendicular stones that look towards the east. He also ordered the execution of Ahuizotl. According to Gama, the historian, the figures of Axayacatl and other Mexican kings were also carved and were kept until the middle of the XVIII century, inasmuch as their destruction started at the beginning of the XVII century and lasted until the end of 1753, when that of Moctezuma I was also destroyed.
There are remains that show that the Mexican kings lived in Chapultepec after Netzahualcoyotl, the crowned king of the Chichi- mecas, left for his capital city Tezcoco. This proved by the figures of the emperors Moctezuma Illhuicamina, Ahuizotl and Axayacatl, the lower extremities of which can still be seen, carved on the rock that cuts the little mountain. Solis, the historian, asserts that it was in Chapultepec where caskets that contained the bodies of the Aztec kings were deposited. There still exists in the castle the well perforated in the hard rock by the Aztecs, wich has been trans- formed into an elevator. It has a depth of thirty three yards, con- necting itself with the cave drilled at the time and which, just opposite the arches that carry the water to Santa Fe and Tlax-
— 10--
CHAPULTEPEC—ITS LEGEND AND ITS HISTORY
pana, measures ninety yards in length by six and a half in height. Tradition also tellsus that when Moctezuma II was a prisoner of the Spaniards, he went hunting in the forest of Chapultepec but was always guarded by a numerous retinue.
A historian named Torquemada states that the Mexicans considered the forest of Chapultepec a sacred place. Moctezuma Xocoyotzin had large pools at Chapultepec, where the most beautiful specimens of fish were kept. The Mexicans also built solar meridians to regulate the time. Later on, Viceroy Luis de Velasco, who dedi- cated the forest to Emperor Charles V, took there a breed of grey- hounds brought from Spain by Archbishop Montufar, that after- wards spread all over New Spain. During the first years the viceroys kept the forest walled up so as to prevent the hunters from shooting and scaring away the large game of deer, hares and rabbits that lived in the thicket.
A few years after the conquest Chapultepec became a gunpow- der factory, and in 1784 an explosion took place that shock the city and killed forty persons. In less than six years the factory had been on fire four times; this was caused, according to the expert opinion of Father Alzate, by the oxide of iron that was found in the vicinity, which, adhering to the laborer’s shoes produced com- bustion when coming into contact with unpurified sulphur contai- ning small parts of copperas.. |
The most characteristic , thing in Chapultepec forest is the inmense trees called ahuehuetes which keep their greenness all through the spring and summer, changing it in the winter for a reddish shade. At the foot of the hill the castle is sorrounded by more than three hundred ahuehuetes making the forest more beautiful at that place. The largest one of them is on the eastern side of the forest, and its trunk measures fifteen meters in circumference. The
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CHAPULTEPEC—ITS LEGEND AND ITS HISTORY
one near the entrance to the cave is just a little smaller, and there are many others that measure more than ten meters; their shade covers a great area, bringing freshness to the park and to the lawns covered with numberless flowers that make the forest seem in
everlasting spring.
Upon the new arrival of the Spaniards at the Anahuac valley on the 26th. of May 1521, a bloody battle took place, Hernan Cor- tés capturing Chapultepec hill, for the purpose of besieging Te- nochtitlan. He destroyed the aqueducts so as to cut off the water supply from the besieged town. Upon capturing the forest, the Conqueror considered with Diego de Ordaz the advisibility of erec- ting at the top of the hill a fortification, as a defense against the Mexicans in the event that the latter allied themselves with the neighboring lake tribes and tried to capture the capital of the Empire. So later on a fort was built. Once the conquest was accom- plished, the Viceroys, following the example set by the Aztec Emperors, made Chapultepec their resort. They had a summer resi- dence built in the same place where the old palace of Netzahual- coyotl was located; and in the sacred temple where bloody rites had taken place, they had a chapel built, dedicated to Saint Francis
Xavier.
By royal decree issued the 25th. of June 1530, Philip II or- dered that from the land granted to Hernan Cortés by Charles V, Chapultepec was to be set apart and granted in perpetuity to the City of Mexico, so that no one might prevent at anytime the free use of the reservoirs. The royal order was duly fulfilled. The vice- regal residence was rebuilt by Viceroy Alburquerque. Demolished during the time of the Marquis de Croix they tried to rebuild it again but Viceroy Bucareli ordered the work to be stopped. Viceroy Matias de Galvez tried to obtain a permitfrom the Court to restore
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CHAPULTEPEC—ITS LEGEND AND ITS HISTORY
the old palace of Chapultepec but it was refused by the king. His idea was to have a place where to carry out the ceremonies for the admission of the Viceroys for New Spain, and where the staff of command could be handed to then. This was a solemn formality that always took place at San Crist6ébal Ecatepec; to Viceroy Bernardo de Galvez, belongs the credit of having built the actual historic Cas- tle of Chapultepec. It was started in 1785, and he gave it a fortress- like shape; for this reason he appeared suspicious before the Court, notwithstanding the fact that the castle was erected on the summit of the hill and was designed for purposes similar to those of the royal places of Madrid. The illustrious Viceroy whose loyalty was doubted without reason, died before completing his work.
The Viceroys kept the forest enwalled and at its entrance, on a memorial stone, the following inscription was placed: “Don Luis de Velasco, Viceroy of this New Spain, dedicates to his Sovereign this Forest; a public amusement place, made beautiful by its trees and factories.” In 1818, when the forest was going to be alienated, the city of Mexico made astrong opposition based on the rights of property which it had acquired over it. Count de Revillagigedo was the first one to plan a botanical garden for Chapultepec, but it was not built until after the Independence of Mexico had taken place. In 1878 an Astronomic Observatory was also built; and at the be- ginning of the XI Xth century the Military College was finally esta- blished in the Castle. The fortress constructed by Hernan Cortés and that later on had become a gunpowder factory, was the one that exploded in 1784 killing many people and destroying the building. In the annals of Chapultepec there is a blood-stained event recorded, which took place on the 29th. of February 1824. A mad she-wolf entered into the forest, tore four children to pieces and left two old ladies related to the forest keeper in a dying con-
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CHAPULTEF.EC—ITS LEGEND AND ITS HISTORY
dition. Upon hearing their screams full of terror the latter who hurriedly came to their assistance, started a hand to hand fight with the wild beast, and succeeded in killing it with a razor handed to him by his sister, while he lay on the groud clutching the animal. Later on the survivors of this drama died from hydrophobia. The forest keeper was the only one who was able to live for a few years more. The she-wolf’s skin was hanged upon an ahuehuete as a re- membrance of the bloody tragedy.
In 1843, the Castle of Chapultepec was red with guns
and became a fortress.
@ We y \ ‘HE castle contains a large plateau, twenty metres high, {| that together with its terraplains forms that part of
the building called the parading-grounds. The roofs of this departament are at the same level with the topmost story. And there is another and higher plateau extending towars the east where it reaches to the rooms and corridors built on the lower level. The castle’s large patio is surrounded by a wall of rough stone and mortar forming a projecting curve in front of the portico; opposite the later there is a fountain anda garden where tall pines cen- turies old can be seen. The northern patio is connected with old underground rooms which were used at atime as dungeons or am- munition dumps.
In 1784, through a petition made by the Mining Commission, some furnaces where built in the forest in order to examine quick. silver minerals. As ninety thousand pesos (45,000 dollars) were nee- ded for repairs, after having spent one hundred and thirty seven thousand in the maintenance and considering this expenses exces. sive. A royal decree was issued in 1788 ordering the castle and the forest to be sold at public auction. Therefore, the first steps to sell the royal property were taken; but Chapultepec owed the Royal Treasury so much money, that no one was willing to stand the ex-
re EE es
CHAPULTEPEC—ITS LEGEND AND ITS HISTORY
pense of redeeming the property from this burden; and so it became necessary, in order to meet the upkeep expenses, to hold several bull-fights annually that yielded fifteen thousand pesos clear profit (five hundred dollars). Finally, the castle and the forest were put at public auction. But the objetion of the Municipal Government, the resistance made by the Viceroys, so as not to lose their resort, the change in governmental affairs caused by the death of Charles III and the arrival of Viceroy Revillagigedo, prevented the sale.
But Chapultepec’s most glorious event is the heroic defense which the Mexicans made there against the North American in- vasion.
Before the armistice broken on September ‘7th, Chapultepec was able to make a better resistance, having three lines of trenches and ten guns; but Santa Anna ordered four battalions to be re- moved from there to defend the Molino del Rey. He reinforced the Casamata with two more battalions at the expense of the garrison of Chapultepec and the Morales Farm, where four thousand caval- rymen were stationed. In the morning of the 7th. a North American battery located on the Garay house at Tacubaya, proved that the invaders planned to attack Chapultepec. At dawn of the next morn- ing the Molino del Rey and the Casamata were attacked by the invaders, who were repulsed. But, as the cavalry did not pursue them, they rallied, and with the reinforcement troops sent from Tacubaya they attacked the Mexicans again. As the latter had seen the North Americans in retreat, they came out to attack them and were this time caught in the open field and defeated, the Molino del Rey and the Casamata failing in the hands of the invaders. After this fight in which Colonel Balderas was killed and General Leén was mortally wounded, the Mexicans seeing Chapultepec in danger of falling in the hands of the enemy, reinforced its two
CHAPULTEPEC—ITS LEGEND AND ITS HISTORY
flanks and formed a column composed of four battalions to defend it. The Mexicans then tried to recapture the lost forts which the - North Americans were forced to abandon when the explosion of a shell, fired from Chapultepec, set fire to the ammunition in the Ca- samata. The invaders then retreated to Tacubaya determined to attack Chapultepec which was their final goal. The three lines of trenches were destroyed, by aterrible bombardment that took place in the afternoon of the 12th, but were repaired during the night. The North Americans with eight thousand men and thirty two guns encircled the castle that was being defended by two thousand men with seven guns. On September 13th 1847, General Nicolas Bravo, a veteran of the war of Independence, was the one who, commanding a handful of patriots, had the honor of defending the castle. As previously stated, the bombardment of the building started on the 12th and lasted four hours. At dawn of the 13th, General Santa Anna had already lost the Molino del Rey and there- fore sent our troops to be stationed around Chapultepec. The invad- ers renewed the bombardment at five o’clock in the morning, and at eight o’clock sent their eight thousand men to the assault. Ge- neral Bravo immediately asked for reinforcements to defend the castle from the assault of such an overwhelming force; but Gene- ral Santa Anna sent only one battalion. The North Americans, who were determined to capture the fortress at all costs, continued their assaults until ten o’clock of the same morning when the Mexi- can’s stubborn resistance was overcome and the castle captured. Two battalions, the Hidalgo and the San Blas, were annihilated. The star spangled flag was hoisted on the destroyed tower cal- led the Tall Knight, and the remains of our forces retreated through a narrow pass called Belem. The cadets of the Military College set on that ocassion an example of patriotic devotion.
—1- 3
CHAPULTEPEC—ITS LEGEND AND ITS HISTORY
While the North Americans sharp-shooters made prisoners or hurl- ed against the rocks the last defenders remaining on the terraplain, a company from a New York regiment climbed to the top of the building. There the cadets Juan de la Barrera, Juan Escutia, Vi- cente Suarez, Francisco Marquez and Fernando Montes de Oca, met them and gave up their lives in defense of the National flag. The rest of the cadets were made prisoners. Santiago Xicotencatl, Juan Cano and Pérez y Dosamantes also met their death near the castle.
Every year on the 8th of September, the glorious battles of the Molino del Rey and Chapultepec are commemorated in a ceremony that takes place at the foot of the castle where, in 1880, a monu- ment was erected by the Fellowship of the Military College. It is made of a beautiful stone from Chiluca, has a height of six metres, and is formed by a base made of dark-colored rock; by a pedestal ornamented with acanthus leaves and stems of evergreen, oak and laured; and by a column made of a single stone where the names of the students that died heroically during the assault on the castle are carved; and is crowned by a square stone showing in high re- lief, the national coat of arms with its golden eagle amidst cy- press and laurel crowns.
The Castle of Chapultepec has a very simple architecture; but it is beautiful in detail, in its decoration and furnishing. The building as it is today, and which as stated above was built by Vi- ceroy Bernardo de Galvez, has a solid foundation and is clothed on its exterior with the most precious materials from our quarries, such as jasper and calcareous stones. It has two departments;.one is the presidential residence and the other has been used for many years as a military college. The two patios are connected by nume- rous and beautiful arches. And another beautiful archway divides the building at its eastern part. The main department looks to the
CHAPULTEPEC—ITS LEGEND AND ITS HISTORY
east, that is, towards the City of Mexico, and the beautiful view that can be enjoyed from its terraces and observation galleries is of a matchless beauty. From this lofty place the most distant parts of the valley and the amphitheatre of mountains to which the Popocatepetl and the Ixtlaxihuatl belong, can be seen. This de- partment occupies the highest level of the building and was res- tored by Archduke Maximilian who made Chapultepec his favo- rite residence. It has three stories; the underground one which is embedded in the heart of the small mountain, is used as servant’s quarters for the kitchen and for wine cellar. The other two stories are used for holding receptions and for living apartments. In 1866 Maximilian finished both the building of a Mirador started in 1845 ‘and that of a reception hall begun by President Miramon.
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HAXIMILIAN also built the eastern corridor, the Council Hall, and another corridor from where a
magnificent view of the valley can be had. Presi- dent Madero completed the miradors by connecting them at the north-eastern angle of the Castle at which point they had been separated. By this means the scenery can be viewed from the northern and eastern miradors without interrupting the view while following the horizon and the waving lines of the mountains, plains, hills, and of the great city extending itself towards Guada- lupe, Tacuba, Tlalpam, Tacubaya, Texcoco, with numerous colo- nies scattered around. The Archduke wanted to make Chapultepec a royal residence worthy of comparison with his Castle of Miramar in the Adriatic. Therefore he had plans made for the reconstruc- tion which were nearly all followed, and everything done at the time is still kept out of regard its historic and artistic value. In those days the distribution of the majority of the rooms that exist today took place. Also that of the miradors and terraces from where the beautiful scenery can be seen while looking through the large number of: columns in the two stories. The winding road and its gardens surrounding the northern, western, and southern parts of the building, were built at that time. An architect named Ramén Rodriguez Arrangoiti was the one who sketched and completed the reconstruction, and Santiago Rebull, a painter whose Pompeian
CHAPULTEPEC—ITS LEGEND AND ITS HISTORY
panels representing half-nude dancers, still exist although res- tored, was the decorator. One of them, a “Dance with a Panther” shows beautiful action and movement. Upon finishing the archi- tectural and decorative reconstruction, the task of finishing the parlors and rooms, where Louis XV style is mostly used, had to be met with. Costly furniture and works of Art can yet be found to testify to the shortlived splendor of a vanished dream. Amongst the remaining objects of luxury there can be found a magnificent carved-silver dining set, half of which is kept at the National Pa- lace and the other half is on exhibition at the National Museum of History and Archaeology. Some alabaster flower vases, marble and bronze statues, large and superb jars from China and Japan and magnificent chandeliers also serve to testify to the splendor which then existed. The elevators for those living at the Castle and the dumbwaiters that carried up the meals to the dining room, start from the ground floor In the middle and upper floors there are several
rooms and parlors decorated with expensive silk tapestries.
Next to the stairway of honor recently restored there is a small — hall for the officers on guard duty and next to it a larger one which is used for Cabinet meetings. Considering their historic remem- brance and their luxurious furniture all the apartments are worth mentioning. The bath room used by Archduchess Carlota still keeps its glazed tile frieze of the time. The canopy of her bed is kept in her room and the bed itself at the Museum. The Chinese room with its beautiful furniture adorned with costly silk and wonderful embroidery, was presented by the Empress of China during the celebration of the One Hundredth Anniversary of the Mexican Independence. The picture of the royal donor can be seen on the upper end of the room, just above the sofa. A table that was owned by Agustin de Iturbide is kept in a pink room and ser-
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CHAPULTEPEO—ITS LEGEND AND ITS HISTORY
ves to remind one of his short stay at the Castle. The reception hall with its silk tapestry and gilt ceiling contains a set of furni- ture of Louis XV period beautifully ornamented with tapestries representing scenes from Lafontaine’s fables. Next to the vestibule, where the stairway that runs to the upper floor is, the sumptuous dining room with its panels and fine wooden floors and artistically ornamented ceiling is located. The fire-place, shelving, and the fur- niture are all of the Renaissance style. This dining room was made in President Diaz’s time and is the most attractive one in the Castle. Next to it is the Turkish smoking room, decorated with mul- ticolored arabesques. Then comes a small chamber which is used for ' playing cards. Part of it is draped with beautiful Flemish silk ta- pestry representing scenes from the period of Henry III of France, the figures of which are of silk on velvet. The other part is deco- rated with old Venetian mirrors. Close to the Billiard Room there is the Bowling Alley that was reconstructed by President Madero and can also be used as a moving picture room. Its white decorations
with relieves of children at play on the frieze show good taste.
A magnificent and attractive lobby covered with beautiful stain. ed glass is found on the upper floor it connects with the Hall of Ambassadors that is used exclusively for diplomatic receptions. It is decorated with one piecetapestry that shows a view of the Castle of Chapultepec. Then follows a small Office, the dressing room of Archduchess Carlota, and historic bedrooms that remain untouched furnished with mahogany and bird’s-eye wood furniture. The pre- sidential room faces the splendid panorama of the valley. On the other side looking northwads, opposite the dining room built re- cently, are the rooms for the guests of honor. And close to another
smoking room, there is a circular hall from where one can climb to the Tall Knight.
se EOE
CHAPULTEPEC—ITS LEGEND AND ITS HISTORY
President Carranza wishing to make a truly royal residence of Chapultepec, of sufficient size for all the contingencies befitting the rank of President of the Republic, commissioned Antonio Ri- vas Mercado, an architect, to devise a plan for the annexation to the castle of the building called the “Military College’, so as to give the former a large extension and more comfort. It can be said that the castle really is a home; and not a place that can be changed so as to harbour the numerous people that take part in the great public receptions. It was necessary to devise a plan worthy of the vastness of the original idea, and the architect has adapted the large building next to the castle almost without tearing down anything, and happily the project provides for all eventualities such as state receptions, grand balls, banquets, the permanent ins- tallation of baths, stables, picture galleries, a museum of trophies and a hothouse garden.
The plans provide, on the lower floor, behind an entrance to the ex-Military Academy which comunicates with the castle, fora complete apartment for the superintendent in the southern wing, as well as for the warden or janitor on the left of the principal en- trance to the old College. Behind this gate which crosses the whole building from north to south with a large parking place under cover for automobiles and carriages, that can easily enter and leave without interfering with one another, follow the guard room, the flag room, the armory, and the officers’ hall with a series of service apartments. The museum for objects of art and war trcphies is very spacious. The hall for drilling and band practice is on the western front of the building, and on the whole length of the northern wing are the stables, the large kitchen, servants’ quarters, storage and
warehouse room.
— 2h
N the upper story the building connects with the castle by the President’s private Secretary’s office and by the quarters of his Adjutants, Staff, tele-
graph and telephone service, the offices of the private secretaries,
typists, etc. The President, therefore, has around him his private helpers. The apartment runs on the southern wing into the audience room, the meeting room, the waiting room and the library. After the terraces wich are upon the principal entrance, is the Hall of Ambassadors, a room of ample proportions where diplomatic receptions can take place with absolute comfort, made more attract- ive by the presence of ladies and solemnized with pomp. After a series of apartments which coincide with those of the lower floor, there appears the grand hall used for holding celebrations and receptions. This is a very Jarge and confortable room with a large terrace in front of it, and is followed by a resting room, which oc- cupies the southeastern corner of the building. Next to the grand hall, and of the same length, there is a hothouse garden with galleries and paths under cover, and at the rear of it at the northern wing, the handsome and large dining-room facing the north. In this di- | ning-room five hundred diners can be seated with absolute comfort. Another dining-room is found on the rear of the President’s Secre-
ust DB vee: 4
CHAPULTEPEC—ITS LEGEND AND ITS HISTORY
tary’s headquarters, also inthe northern wing and in front of a magnificent terrace. But this brief survey of the plans to be carried out can give only a faint idea of the magnificence of Chapultepec castle when the work has been completed; and when the new pre- sidential apartment is decorated according to the elaborate plans already approved, it will fully deserve the name of a royal mansion.
=e ROM the height of the Tall Knight, from the proud, (| indomitable turret, that has witnessed so many hap-
penings and glorious events of our political history, interlaced with modern history by the absurd adventure of a foolish prince who slept here in the mansion of Netzahualcoyotl and Axa- yacatl, crooned by the rustle of the old ahuehuetes, dreaming the hopeless dream of establishing a monarchy on a free and sacred land of democracy; I let my eyes and imagination run free through the enchanted forest, full of legends under the thickly studded cen- turies-old trees, of which, from this height, only the tops can be seen, like a sea with waves of foliage hung heavy with gray moss and zacataxtal, and my eyes wonder towards the east along the via sacra lined with bronze statues of our heroes and patricians, with the monument to the Independence and its groups of marble statues; the monument to Cuauhtemoc, crowned by the fate-defying hero casting his spear; the monument to Cristopher Columbus, discoverer of a virgin world that now rises as a future rival to the old world; and then the great city with its hundred towers and domes of glis- tening tiles, the old buildings of our middle ages, the structures of the colonial period, and the palaces and suburbs of modern resi- dential districts, and further beyond, the far-off boroughs, beds of
— 27 =
CHAPULTEPEC—ITS LEGEND AND ITS HISTORY
the old salted lagoons, inmense plains which were once the lakes of Chalco, Xochimilco, Zumpango and Tezcoco, and the perpetual snows of the extinct volcanoes. |
Towards the south and near the entrance and railing which Riva Palacio built as if to hold back with it the green wave of the forest, enter the light and power lines carrying the pulse of civili- zation in steel cables up to the springs of Ajusco. To this point the | city will spread out someday, having already reached the mountains after filling the valley. On the west and north, far from the forest enlarged and beautified by Limantour, the hunting grounds scale the mountain, bringing together distant towns, villages, and small cities which connect with the main body by shady roadsand streets, future throughfares already mapped out, arteries of an inmense future organism, carriers of the intense life of a great city which I see in my imagination seating victorious upon its nine hills, like Rome and Bizantium and occupying the high lands after covering the bountiful valley. And I realize then that the eagle-eyed Aztecs knew how to choose the site on which they would found an in- mense empire and that the true fate of Mexico has not as yet issued from its cacoon to fly and shed its light through the ages as one of the ruling races of the future.
Such is Chapultepec, heart of Mexico, last goal of Aztlan’s pilgrimage, home of a poet king who chose this delightful place, residence of Emperors and Viceroys, residential mansion of the ru- lers of a free people. Its ahuehuetes are full of legends and fantas- tic shadows of the past. Through its avenues the hispanic centaurs took to flight before the golden-shod warriors who chased them, with arrow and bow, to the Tacuba highway where Hernan Cortés wept over his misfortune at the foot of another ahuehuete still kept to commemorate the feat of Cuauhtemoc. The poetry of its history,
CHAPULTEPEC—ITS LEGEND AND ITS HISTORY
its legend, and its past is the most glorious possession of the Mex- icans. We love Chapultepec because it is the stone page on which the most heroic and fairest deeds of our ancestors are carved and if in 1847 an impious hand snatched from its setting the beautiful relief of the Mexican eagle carved by the Aztecs on the bare rock of the crest, the Anahuac eagles still hover constantly above the sea of foliage and as in the past, descend to hatch their brave young in the souls of heroes, should the fists of a powerful people bear upon the Aztec nation which once extended its dominions to far distant California. We know that by a doom of the gods of Aztlan a day will come when from Chapultepec will rise in full glory a legion of glittering spectres to defend with their arrows, like bowmen of Heaven, the sacred right to live which we have ob- tained and has been transmitted to us since our fathers took posses- - sion, in the name of their hero Tenoch, of the inmense valley of Anahuac, the Ruler in the past and in yet distant but certain fu- ture, of the sacred land which as a precious inheritance we must
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View frem the Castle.
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The Tall: Knight of the Castle.
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Side-board in the great dining-room. Silver fruit stand.
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