LIBRARY

OF THE

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA.

Class

CHRYSANTHEMUMS

AND HOW TO GROW THEM

THE GARDEN LIBRARY

Roses, and How to Grow Them

By Many Experts

Ferns, and How to Grow Them*

By G. A. Woolson

Lawns, and How to Make Them

By Leonard Barron

Daffodils-Narcissus, and How to Grow Them
By A. M. Kirby

Water-Lilies and How to Grow Them

By Henri Hus and Henry S. Conard

House Plants

By Parker Thayer Barnes

The Orchard and Fruit Garden

By E. P. Powell

The Flower Garden

By Ida D. Bennett

The Vegetable Garden

By Ida D. Bennett

Vines, and How to Grow Them

By William McCollom

Garden Planning

By W. S. Rogers

Chrysanthemums, and How to Grow Them
By I. L. Powell

PLATED

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM IS INDEED A GARDEN FLOWER

The greatest rewards and successes, in terms of results and true enjoyment
with the least expense and trouble, are often achieved by the amateur who
grows the hardy, many-flowered garden varieties

Chrysanthemums

And How to Grow Them

As Garden Plants for Outdoor Bloom
and for Cut Flowers Under Glass

BY
I. L. POWELL

ILLUSTRATED

GARDEN CITY NEW YORK

DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY

1911

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, INCLUDING THAT OF TRANSLATION
INTO FOREIGN LANGUAGES, INCLUDING THE SCANDINAVIAN

COPYRIGHT, xgxx, BY DOUBLEDAY, PAGE 3t COMPANY

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. Points for the Beginner 3

II. Growing Under Glass 17

III. Preparing the Soil and Propagation . . 25

IV. Bush Plants and Standards 43

V. The Science and Practice of Feeding . . 64

VI. Growing Exhibition Blooms .... 77

VII. Growing for Commercial Purposes . . 112

VIII. Production of New Varieties . . . . 134

IX. Insects, Diseases, and Remedies . . . 146

X. Growing in the South 161

XI. The Pompon Chrysanthemum . . . 165

XII. Cultural Hints Month by Month ... 173

XIII. Types and Varieties 179

Index .... 197

224457

ILLUSTRATIONS

PLA1E

I. The Chrysanthemum is Indeed a
Garden Flower (Henry Troth}

Frontispiece

FACING PAGE

II. Buds and Disbudding — I (H. G.

Taylor) 6

III. Buds and Disbudding — II (H. G.

Taylor) . . . . ' 1

IV. A Hardy Chrysanthemum Border

(Nathan R. Graves) . • 10

V. The Artistic Appeal (Nathan R.

Graves) ....-••• "
VI. A House for Chrysanthemums and

Carnations (A. G. Eldredge) . . 18
VII. Prize Exhibition Blooms in the Bench

(Nathan R. Graves) . • *9

VIII. Root Cuttings — I (Nathan R.

Graves) 3°

IX. Root Cuttings — II (Nathan R.

Graves and Leonard Barron) . . 3*
X. Root Cuttings — HI (Nathan R.

Graves and Leonard Barron) . . . 5°
XI. Fall Protection for Half-Hardy Sorts

(H. G. Taylor) .... • 5*

XII. A Championship Specimen Bush

Plant (Herbert E. Angelf) . - 62

ILLUSTRATIONS — Continued

PACING PAGE

PLATE

XIII. A Prize Winning Standard (Nathan

R. Graves) 63

XIV. Taking the Bud — I (Leonard

Barron) 66

XV. Taking the Bud — II (Leonard

Barron) 67

XVI. The Growth of the Buds (Leonard

Barron) 78

XVII. Blooms from Crown and Terminal

Buds (Leonard Barron) ... 79
XVIII. Supporting Plants on Strings (Nathan

R. Graves) g2

XIX. Supporting Plants on Stakes (Nathan

R. Graves) 83

XX. Exhibiting Prize Blooms (A. R.

Dugmore) 94

XXI. Black Aphis on the Chrysanthemum

(Leonard Barron)

XXII. The Chrysanthemum in Interior
Decoration (Henry Troth) . .

XXIII. A Bush Anemone (Nathan R.

Graves) 113

XXIV. Potted Plants Growing Outdoors

(/. N. Gerard) 128

XXV. Some Garden Possibilities (Allen

French and Herbert E. Angell . . 129
XXVI. Two of the Many-flowered Pompons

(Nathan R. Graves) .... 146
XXVII. The Pompon and Anemone Types

(A. R. Dugmore and N. R. Graves) 147
XXVIII. Hardy Anemones (Brugh

Werner) 158

95

112

ILLUSTRATIONS — Continued

PLATE

PACING PAGE

XXIX. Protecting and Shading Plants (/. jf.

Gerard) '

XXX. The Reflexed and Incurved Types

(H. E. Angell and N. R. Graves) . 180
XXXI. Two Blooms of the Japanese Type

(H. E. Angell and N. R. Graves) 181

CHRYSANTHEMUMS
AND HOW TO GROW THEM

CHRYSANTHEMUMS

CHAPTER I
POINTS FOR THE BEGINNER

Obtaining information and planning the work — Care of stock
plants — Simplest methods of growing — An amateur's experience

NATURALLY the very first question that
the would-be grower of chrysanthemums
asks himself is: "When shall I begin?"
Begin right now, whether "now" happens
to be June or January. While certain parts
of the year are, of course, more favourable
than others for doing practical work in con-
nection with the growing of chrysanthe^
mums, there is no time when something
may not be done toward making a start.

The commencement of the expert chrys-
anthemum grower's year is about the first
of October. It is then that he begins to
see the results of his past year's work, and,
in consequence, is able to set about intelli-

3

4 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

gently making plans and preparations for
the ensuing year. It will be well to watch
this expert, and, so far as possible, adopt
his methods. His note-book will be a
prominent factor in his operations at all
times, and particularly so at the beginning
of the chrysanthemum year. As his flowers
come along he jots down the date of full
development, the condition and appearance
of blooms from the different kinds of buds,
and whether colour, form, and general
character are desirable. He decides which
varieties and how many of each he will
grow, and selects the healthiest plants that
have produced the best blooms for "stock"
plants for propagating purposes. As soon
as the blooms are cut he has these stock
plants stored in some cool, light, and well-
ventilated place, convenient for watering.
A sheltered and well-protected coldframe,
he finds a most excellent place for storing
stock plants from which cuttings are not
to be taken before February 1st. When
cuttings are required as early as January
ist he places them in a greenhouse where
a temperature of 45 to 60 degrees Fahr.
can be maintained. Meanwhile the expert

POINTS FOR THE BEGINNER 5

grower will have visited some of the promi-
nent chrysanthemum exhibitions, noting what
new varieties appear to be improvements,
also which of the older varieties are shown
in good condition. He will probably also
visit other experts at their places of business
and endeavour, in a fair and friendly way,
to learn what new or improved varieties,
or methods of cultivation, they may have.
Labelling will be observed, and all names
that are doubtful verified or corrected.
Memoranda will be made of all desirable
varieties that he sees and lacks, and such
varieties will be procured at the proper
time.

SIMPLEST METHOD

Having got these necessary preparations
of the expert clearly in his mind, the
beginner must consider the structure in
which he is to grow his plants, and the
method of culture that he desires to adopt;
for of the various methods there is sure to
be one that can be made available for his
needs and convenience. The easiest and
simplest method is, of course, that of grow-
ing the plants out of doors with but little,

6 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

if any, protection. For this purpose the
small-flowered, hardy varieties known as
"pompons" generally, and in some sections
of the country as "artemisias," are used.
Apart from the fact that they are the
cheapest and most easily grown of all the
different types, they are so very desirable
for decorative garden effects that they
are used extensively on the large country
estates. They are deservedly popular, for
they give a display of bright and pleasing
colour when practically every other out-
door flower has been destroyed by frost.
While protection is not necessary for them
at any time, the season of bloom will
be lengthened by having them planted
where a building or trees will form a wind-
break.

The next simplest method is to plant
some of the early varieties of the large-
flowered type out of doors in a well-sheltered
position, and then drive strong stakes in
the ground about them to support some
protecting material — burlap, matting, can-
vas, muslin, heavy building paper, or any
old covering that is available. Or, better
still, but a little more expensive, arrange

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POINTS FOR THE BEGINNER 7

a rough frame about them and put a few
sash of glass over them during cold weather.

AN AMATEUR'S EXPERIENCE

As illustrative of what may be done with
such outdoor treatment of early varieties,
the experience of one amateur, told in his
own words, is uncommonly interesting:

"Great was my satisfaction in demon-
strating that the early varieties of the
large-flowered type of chrysanthemums could
be successfully grown out of doors. I
prefer to have my plants in the open border,
where they lend their beauty to the general
scheme of the garden. I have no greenhouse
and I do not want one.

"Planting out is done the latter half of
April, either from division of the old roots
that have been wintered outdoors, or from
new plants that I buy from the florists,
as I try a few novelties each year.

"Division of the old plants and roots
and replanting each spring are a necessary
detail if you want flowers of size and quality.
Plants that have wintered in the open
ground are dug up as soon as they have made
new growth of two or three inches. They

8 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

are carefully broken into separate pieces,
taking some roots with each sprout, if possi-
ble. I find that this gives the plant an
earlier start, which makes it much stronger.

"As chrysanthemums are what gardeners
call 'gross feeders,' the ground is made very
rich by spading in an abundance of old
manure. The bed in which they are planted
is raised slightly above the general level of
the garden, to secure good drainage, and all
through the season I am careful to keep plenty
of free space around the plants, so that they
are open to both light and air, which results
in a healthy, sturdy growth, that counts
for much when the flowering time comes.

"If I want to grow the plants to a single
bloom, one foot apart is ample space to allow
when planting. If they are to be allowed to
make four or five stems they will need at
least eighteen inches. If the plants are to be
pinched back several times, allow two feet
each way, to allow them to make large plants.

THE ART OF DISBUDDING

"To grow large flowers in my back yard
I must follow the methods of the professional
florists so far as disbudding and staking the

POINTS FOR THE BEGINNER 9

plants is concerned. It means considerable
work and close attention all the season,
but when October comes, and the plants
are in bloom, I feel that I am well repaid.
"The largest flowers are grown on plants
that are allowed to develop but one stem,
and only one bud on that stem. All side
shoots are removed as soon as they appear,
in order to throw the entire strength into
the one flower. The art of chrysanthemum
growing centres in a knowledge of the
different flower buds and their qualities. A
reference to the accompanying illustrations
will make this plainer. The plant produces
two kinds of buds, 'crown' and 'terminal.'
The crown is a solitary bud, and the first
to appear, forming on the top of the stem
before the branches start (Plate II, Figs. 4
and 6). Terminal buds come in clusters at
the ends of the final branches which the
plant sends out, and terminate the season's
growth (Plates II and III, Figs. I, 2, and 10).

CROWN BUDS FOR LARGEST FLOWERS

"When growing for an individual flower of
the largest size, a crown bud is generally
selected, and all side shoots are nipped off

IO CHRYSANTHEMUMS

as they start (Plate III, Fig. 6). The first
crown bud, although capable of producing an
immense flower, is often deficient in colour-
ing matter, and otherwise lacking in the
essentials of a perfect flower. Therefore
what is called the ' second crown' is generally
chosen as being more certain to give satis-
faction. It requires expert knowledge to
decide on the propriety of using the first
crown, but for the amateur it is much better
to rely on the second.

"This is obtained by pinching out the
tip of the stem (Plate II, Fig. 5-A) in June,
or when the stem is eight or ten inches high,
before the first crown has appeared, and then
allowing a shoot (Plate II, Fig. 5-B) to grow
from the base, or axil, of one of the leaves, just
below the top. This in turn is kept free
from branches in the manner shown in
Plate III, Fig. 6, and develops a single bud,
which produces the desired quality, and
flowers four inches across.

"By thus removing the tip, without wait-
ing for the first crown to form, one saves
time, and, what is very important, is likely
to secure a stouter growth. Should the
branch (Plate II, Fig. 5-B) end in a cluster

THE ARTISTIC APPEAL

The chrysanthemum possesses an intrinsic, artistic beauty approached in
no other flower. Few people have appreciated its decorative value as
have the Japanese

POINTS FOR THE BEGINNER II

of buds, nip out all but one, leaving the
strongest, which is generally at the too.

MORE FLOWERS FROM TERMINAL' BUDS

" I prefer to grow the terminals^ and three
to a stem. Although the flowers xare not
so large, they are more graceful, both in
the garden and when cut. When the
young plant is about five inches high nip
off the top (Plate III, Fig. 7). Shoots then
start from base of the leaves, forming a
plant with three to five branches (Plate III,
Fig. 8). Each of these stems will probably
terminate in cluster of buds (Plate II, Fig.
2), which is disbudded as necessary at the
stage shown in Plate II, Fig. I. I leave
three good buds, well separated, which will
develop as shown in Plate II, Fig. 3.

"These clusters could be reduced to one
bud to a stem for larger flowers, or allowed
to develop naturally into a number of flowers
(Plate III, Fig. 10). The latter, however,
are too crowded to give perfect blooms.

MAKING A BUSH PLANT

"For a bush plant, start with one the
size of Plate III, Fig. 7; pinch out the tip,

12 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

and, when each branch is five inches long, and
looks about the same as the original did,
pinch out the top of each shoot, and in
turn treat their branches similarly. When
the clusters of terminal buds appear remove
all but the centre bud, if you want the
finest flowers. The more buds you leave
the smaller the individual flowers.

TRAINING FOR STANDARDS

"I like to grow a few plants in tree or
standard form, just for variety. I start as
for single-stem plants, and, when the stem
is about three feet high, nip out the top.
This induces branching, but only the upper
five or six branches are retained, all the
others being rubbed off. The subsequent
treatment is as for bush plants. They need
careful staking.

"Unfortunately, the plants which are
destined to grow large flowers will not stand
alone. One stake to a plant is generally
enough when growing but a few stems to a
plant, but when more are required they
become quite unsightly. Galvanized steel
wire can be used, and is less obtrusive. If
several plants are growing together, drive

POINTS FOR THE BEGINNER" 13

a five-foot stake at each end of the row, and
connect them by wires placed a foot apart,
to which the stems are tied as they grow.

"An invisible support of my own devis-
ing is perhaps the best of all when growing
a clump or bush. As the plant increases
in size drive a heavy stake (a broomstick
painted green) so the top will be in the
centre of the clump, the bottom sometimes
slanting out slightly, to avoid the roots as
much as possible. From this, suspend by
four strings a heavy wire ring about eighteen
inches in diameter, and with hooked ends,
to allow its being joined around the plant
and brought up from below. The strings
are tied to the ring in slip knots, to permit
of the ring being raised or lowered as the
plant may require. The plants completely
hide the stake, which can be driven quite
low, and the method of support is not
noticed.

"Aside from the staking and disbudding
details, the routine of work is simple. See
that the plants do not want for water, and
early in July spread a mulch of about two
inches of old manure about the roots to
prevent the ground from baking. From

14 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

July until the buds begin to show colour
I water once a week with liquid sheep
manure, which is made by soaking five
pounds of sheep manure in forty-five gallons
of water, often and weak, rather than seldom
and strong, being my guiding principle in
the feeding of the plants. The black and
green aphides are always troublesome, but
they can be held in check by the frequent
use of tobacco dust.

PROTECTION FROM EARLY FROST

"Though the plants themselves are hardy,
the flowers of the large-flowered chrysan-
themums are more or less tender, and must
be shielded from frost. About the middle
of September six-foot stakes, six feet apart,
are driven into the bed parallel with, and
two feet from, the edge. The stakes are
connected by a wire fastened well above
the tops of the plants. Over the frame thus
formed strips of burlap, long enough to
rest on the grass in front and extend well
down on the other side of the wire fence
at the back of the bed, are thrown whenever
frost threatens. The strips are weighted
at each end with a stick. Other material,

POINTS FOR THE BEGINNER 15

such as muslin or canvas, would answer
as a cover, but the burlap is both tougher
and cheaper, the cover used last fall being
good after several seasons' wear.

WINTER PROTECTION

"After the flowers have matured or have
been cut, the old stems are cut off close to
the ground and the stools covered with
about eight inches of loose, strawy material.
Leaves alone prove too compact. I under-
stand that some people prefer to dig up the
roots and store the balls of earth close to-
gether in a corner of the cellar, where it is
cool but not freezing, but I have never done
so. Indeed, the old roots are not disturbed
until the spring division, and they have
done very well with me out of doors."

The methods adopted and the results
obtained by this amateur are above criticism.
An expert could scarcely do better. A
list of varieties recommended by him as
being well adapted to his method of treat-
ment will be found in the chapter devoted
to "types and varieties." In reference to
wintering the plants out of doors, it is doubt-
ful if equally satisfactory results will be

l6 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

obtained in all localities and soils. In
colder localities and heavy clay soils the
plants would be more liable to perish. Some
pieces of boards laid over the litter to keep
the plants dry would make them practically
safe anywhere.

CHAPTER II
GROWING UNDER GLASS

The best kind of house — The other kind — Makeshifts —
Utilizing houses used for growing other plants — Arrangement
of houses for growing specimen cut blooms for exhibition or
market — For specimen bush plants, market plants, and for
general decorative purposes — Storage room

WHEN chrysanthemums are to be grown
in considerable quantities, and with the
expectation of producing the best grades of
blooms, whether for pleasure or profit,
there is but one really satisfactory way to
do it, and that is in a suitable greenhouse.
While simple and inexpensive methods of
construction will be described to enable
many people of modest desires to produce
good blooms and enjoy them, a well-con-
structed greenhouse is necessary for flowers
of the highest quality.

CONSTRUCTION OF THE HOUSES

Greenhouse construction has reached a
very high state of development at the
present time. Architecture, material, and
17

1 8 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

workmanship are of the highest quality.
Iron and steel framework is largely used by
the best builders and generally accepted
by their customers. While comparatively
few houses are used for chrysanthemums
the entire year, there are a great many
houses built for the express purpose of
growing them. Various forms are used with
equally good results, but one of the best is
the even-span house. This may extend
either east and west or north and south.
Ventilators should be provided for both sides,
at the ridge, and below the eave-plate.
The chrysanthemum is a robust species of
plant and delights in an abundance of pure
air, freely circulating. A house 25 to 30
feet wide, 15 to 16 feet high at the ridge and
5 feet high at the eaves, of such length as
may be desired, will be found to be of
desirable proportions, although the present
tendency is to build considerably larger
houses when plants are to be grown in large
quantities.

INFLUENCE OF HOUSE ON PLANTS

That the character of the house has a
decided influence upon the plants may

PLATE VI

A HOUSE FOR CHRYSANTHEMUMS AND CARNATIONS

The latter are grown in the outside benches. The former need the extra

head-room afforded in the centre of the house. Note the arrangements for
shading

PRIZE EXHIBITION BLOOMS IN THE BENCH

Plants grown as thickly as this require heavy feeding, protection from
insects and disease, and plenty of support. The variety is Timothy Eaton

GROWING UNDER GLASS 19

be gathered from this statement by S. A.
Hill in The Florists' Exchange:

"With most florists who grow roses, carna-
tions, and chrysanthemums, first place and
the choicest position is always given the
rose; the second best is given the carnation;
while the chrysanthemum is relegated to
'any old place,' only provided that there is
tolerably fair head-room for it. It is only
of late years, and with the most ambitious
exhibitors, that the chrysanthemum has
received much consideration as to her
blooming quarters; but as the old style
greenhouse passes, and new, up-to-date
structures replace it, the chrysanthemum
will be found growing in high, broad houses,
where the pure air is in free circulation,
carrying life and vigour into every leaf.
Two of our 4OO-foot houses are 18 feet high
on the ridge, and we have several times
reconsidered and decided that they probably
contain a good many cubic feet of wasted
space; but this year in a re-arrangement
of stock with the new place they somehow
got planted to chrysanthemums, with an
apology to ourselves for giving up such
valuable space to this tribe from the East,

2O CHRYSANTHEMUMS

who are supposed to care little where their
tents may be pitched, if only the man with
the knife will make no mistake in selecting
their buds. But — on tile benches, with
plenty of room overhead, and free air cours-
ing in every direction — these chrysanthe-
mums have developed heavier stems and
more perfect foliage than we have ever
before seen on our place, and we feel sure
that the big houses are largely responsible."

PROPER HOUSES IMPORTANT

Old houses with heavy sash bars, small
glass, little head-room, and 2x4 foot venti-
lating sash, ten feet apart, will not produce
first-class blooms, however well the plants
may be treated otherwise. Leaf spot, mil-
dew, and other diseases will be almost certain
to attack the plants growing under such
conditions. Cheap houses may be built
that will produce good blooms, if the plants
are treated properly, but they must be light
and well ventilated.

I have grown good plants in a temporarily
constructed house made by setting two or
three rows of posts, to the tops of which
strips of narrow boards were nailed hori-

GROWING UNDER GLASS 21

zontally and hotbed sash placed on them
with battens over the joints. With two
rows of posts a shed roof can be formed,
and with three rows an equal span will be
made. No sides will be needed until cold
nights come; then boards, shutters, or other
material can be placed about the sides.
Mosquito netting may have to be placed
about the sides in some localities to prevent
the depredations of the tarnished plant bug.
The plants may be grown in houses that
are devoted to other things for a portion of
the year. An early peach house or vinery
may be utilized after the crop of fruit has
been removed, although here again light will
be more or less obstructed, and first-class re-
sults are not likely to be obtained. They may
often be grown in houses that are to be used
during the winter for such vegetables as
tomatoes or cauliflower, without interfering
seriously with those crops.

BENCHES BETTER THAN SOLID BEDS

When it is intended to grow large speci-
men blooms, the house may be arranged
with solid beds, made of good soil placed
upon the earth floor, or with benches of

22 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

wood, cement, or other material. Benches
made to hold soil to a depth of four to six
inches, with openings in the bottom —
evenly apportioned to each square foot of
its area and amounting to from five to ten
per cent, of the area — for drainage are
better than solid beds, as the grower has
greater control over the roots. Plants in
solid beds will often make stronger growth
and heavier foliage, but the flowers will
not generally be as good.

Benches should be low, particularly so
those at the sides of the house, allowing at
least three feet from top of bench to eave-
plate. Anywhere from twenty to thirty
inches will be a convenient height. Benches
may be constructed resting directly upon
the earth floor, if proper drainage can be
provided, various methods of construction
being used. Benches can thus be made
practically indestructible, and to combine
the advantages of benches with all the
available head-room secured by using solid
beds. For convenience in working, the
beds should be not more than three or six
feet wide, those of the latter dimension being
between two walks. Walks may be from

GROWING UNDER GLASS 23

twenty to thirty-six inches wide. One walk
through each house should be not less than
thirty inches wide, to allow room for carry-
ing soil, cutting blooms, and visitors to
pass. Other walks may be as narrow as
twenty inches. Walks and beds, of course,
must conform to the dimensions of the house.
For growing large specimen bush plants
a house without benches is best, although
the plants will be better for being placed
on benches reasonably close to the glass
while in their smaller state. After they have
had their final potting they will be bene-
fited and be more convenient for working
if placed directly on coarse gravel or bricks
on the earth floor. This arrangement is
also good for ordinary plants that are being
grown for decorative purposes. In growing
pot plants for market, benches will be
better, as the plants will not be too large
to be handled easily and they will be
more convenient for giving general care.
For growing cut blooms for market,
benches are best. If to be grown in
large quantities, it is better to have
sections or divisions of houses for lots
of early, mid-season, and late varieties,

24 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

so that each lot may receive treatment
according to its needs.

Where plants or blooms are grown for
exhibition, or where for any other reason
it becomes necessary to keep them for some
time after they have matured, as is frequent-
ly the case, a storage room is desirable,
and if not available should be provided.
Blooms are soon ruined if left in the house
where grown. A dry, well-ventilated
building or shed where there is from six to
ten feet of head-room, where a temperature
of from 35 to 45 degrees may be maintained,
and where bright sunshine or even strong
light can be excluded, will be an ideal place
for the purpose.

CHAPTER III
PREPARING THE SOIL AND PROPAGATING

Character of soil — Manure — Composting — Condition of soil
used — Getting stock plants in condition for taking cuttings
— Arrangements for propagating — The north-side propagating
house — Cuttings in boxes or pots — Division of old plants —
Propagating for specimen bush plants and standards — For cut
blooms and small pot plants — Grafting

ONE of the most important operations
connected with the growing of good chrysan-
themums, either large plants or fine blooms,
is that of procuring and preparing the proper
soil for them. If possible, this should be
done the autumn previous to the season
when it will be required. Otherwise it
must be prepared as early in the spring as
possible.

MECHANICAL CHARACTER OF THE SOIL

The mechanical character, or texture, of
the soil is of greater importance than its
chemical character or fertility. The chem-
ical elements required by the plants
can be supplied after the plants have been
as

26 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

planted and are growing. If the soil is
not in good mechanical condition before the
plants have begun to take root nothing
can be done to improve it without injury
to the plants. If the mechanical character
of the soil intended for use is bad, some
means should be used to improve it; for
while plants may be successfully grown in
soils varying considerably in this respect,
extremes of any kind are sure to prove
detrimental to the health of the plants.
The soil generally conceded to be best for
growing chrysanthemums is a friable clay
loam. Stiff, heavy clay, muck, sandy or
gravelly soils are not good for the purpose,
and when from necessity any of them must
be used, efforts should be made to improve
them by the addition of other materials
or soils of opposite character. Heavy clay
soil will be improved by the addition of
about one sixth each of sand and leaf mould
to four sixths of the clay. Gravelly and
sandy soils will be improved, both mechani-
cally and chemically, by having a greater
proportion of heavy manure added to the
compost than soils of heavier texture can
stand.

PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 2f

In collecting the soil, that taken from
the surface of a pasture field, by removing
about three or four inches, is most de-
sirable. This should be placed in a layer
about six inches thick, in some convenient
place, and the layer of such extent as to
make about one fourth of the entire quantity
required. Upon this place a layer of good
manure, preferably cow manure, although
horse, hog, and sheep manure are all good,
if well decomposed. Sheep manure is
generally the richest of all. Fresh cow
manure may be used, but old is preferable.
The layer of manure should be about two
inches thick, equal to one fourth of the entire
bulk. Add another layer of soil and manure
and continue until the heap is from two to
three feet thick. If prepared in the fall,
it should remain undisturbed until the frost
is out of it in the spring, when it should be
turned, beginning at one end or side, chop-
ping the heap down with a spade or other
implement, mixing the soil and manure well
together, and making the heap somewhat
broader than before. Allow it to remain
in this condition for two or three weeks.
Then spread over the top and sides a coat-

28 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

ing of good ground bone, equal to one half
peck to each cubic yard of compost, chop
the heap down, and turn and mix thoroughly
as before. Generally this will put the com-
post in good condition for use, although if
the soil is stiff and rough a third turning
may be beneficial. When the compost
is not prepared until spring it should be
turned as soon as collected, and a third
turning will most likely be needed. Such
a compost, if properly prepared, is all that
is required for general pottings and for
filling boxes or benches.

AN EXPERT'S OPINION OF COMPOST

The fact that chrysanthemum growers
generally the world over are well agreed
upon the character of compost to be used
for successful results is plainly shown by
the following expression of opinion upon
the subject from the writings of an English
expert :

"The question of the feeding of the chrys-
anthemum resolves itself into two parts —
namely, the nature of the compost and of
the subsequent feeding which is given
when the flower buds appear. It is com-

PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 2Q

monly held that the basis of the compost
should consist of good fibrous loam. The
physical (mechanical) condition of the soil
is of almost as much moment as its chemical
constitution. It is of prime importance
that the soil shall be porous, in order that
thorough drainage and aeration be obtained.
For this purpose it is well to mix with the
soil a certain amount of sharp sand and
charcoal, the presence of the latter being
particularly desirable. The nature of the
soil, too, governs the manner of potting.
For a sturdy growth, light soil should be
firmly packed, while heavier soils require
only loose packing. The use of heavy clay
loam brings with it the danger of water-
logged roots, while a very light, sandy soil
permits excessive drainage and consequent
root starvation. It is preferable, however,
to err on the side of lightness rather than
heaviness. With the loam, well-rotted stable
manure may be mixed in various propor-
tions, although the ratio of one part manure
to three parts loam will probably give the
best results. Horse, cow, and sheep
manure can all be used with good results;
but cow manure is generally preferred, as

3O CHRYSANTHEMUMS

it gives up its fertilizing qualities gradually.
It is often advantageous to add to the com-
post one part in four of leaf mould. With
the lighter soils this is particularly desirable,
not so much because of any addition of
nutrient material, but because of its power
of retaining water and plant food.

" Various animal as well as mineral fertil-
izers have frequently been added to the com-
post, and sometimes even used as substitutes
for the stable manure. Guano has thus been
used with good results; so have fish manure
and dried blood. A very good practice
is to add to every cubic yard (twenty bushels)
of compost forty pounds of finely ground
bone manure, which not only serves as a
source of phosphoric acid and lime, but
furnishes some nitrogen. Soot also has
with advantage been made a part of the
compost. This furnishes as much as 3
per cent, of nitrogen, chiefly as sulphate
of ammonia, as well as small quantities
of phosphoric acid and potash. It may be
used at the rate of one to five pounds to
loo pounds of compost. Should the loam be
at all deficient in lime, the deficiency should
be corrected by the addition of a few hand-

PLATE VIII

are made, about the base of a stock plant

Shoots, from which root cuttings

Cuttings as taken, and, alter being trimmed, ready to be set away in sand
to root

ROOT CUTTINGS — I

a

C V

**J ^*

4J (U

32

PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 3!

fuls of slaked lime — two or three pounds
per cubic yard of soil. A lack of lime will
cause soft stems and flabby leaves.

" Nitrate of soda and sulphate of ammonia
have been recommended by some growers
as a part of the compost. The evidence
in favour of this practice is at present in-
sufficient to commend it. It seems an
unnecessary addition, with danger of a too
concentrated soil composition, and waste
of nitrogen through rapid drainage. Ex-
cessive concentration of nutrients in the
soil mixture is more injurious than a
deficiency, because of the inability of the
roots to absorb solutions above a certain
degree of concentration. The result is that
the plant starves. This fact has been very
strikingly shown by some chrysanthemum
cultures seen by the writer. Again, in the
presence of an excess of nutrients, a good
development of roots is not produced, even
though the concentration of the soil solution
is not too great for absorption by the roots;
and, further, the roots are not in condition
to take up the subsequently applied liquid
manure. The best plan is to have a moder-
ately rich compost, thereby obtaining healthy

32 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

roots, stems, and leaves; then, when the
buds appear, apply the rich liquid manures.
Experiments have shown that nitrate of
soda and sulphate of ammonia may be used
as a substitute for stable manure, although
not as an addition to it. Still this does not
at present seem advisable, the better plan
being to reserve these for the subsequent
feeding as liquid fertilizers." — J. J. Willis,
in The Gardener's Chronicle.

STOCK PLANTS

To insure healthy cuttings, the stock
plants must be given such treatment for
three or four weeks previous to the time that
the cuttings are required as will induce
vigorous, healthy growth. The condition
most conducive to this result is a light, well-
ventilated greenhouse or frame, where the
temperature may be kept at from 40 to 50
degrees at night and from 50 to 60 degrees
during bright, sunny days. Stock plants
that are given such treatment as soon as
the flowers are cut will furnish good cuttings
by the middle of December. When cuttings
are not required until January or February
or later, the stock plants may be kept as

PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 33

described in Chapter I, and be brought
into growing condition as desired.

PROPAGATION

The methods required for successful prop-
agation will vary slightly during the season,
according to the changing character of that
period, but the essential principles are the
same throughout. These principles are:
Pure, clean atmosphere, without draughts
of air striking the cuttings until they have
begun to make roots; considerable moisture
in the atmosphere; temperature as nearly
as possible between 45 and 55 degrees;
and some arrangement that will hold clean,
sharp sand, fine gravel, crushed stone or
brick, or even washed coal ashes, to a
depth of two to three inches. Various
arrangements may be made to provide these
conditions according to the quantity of
plants to be propagated, the facilities avail-
able for the purpose, or the inclination of the
operator, from the extensive propagating
houses of the prominent commercial estab-
lishments to a few pots, a small box, or a
saucer in the window of some enthusiastic
amateur. The best methods of doing this

34 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

work are those adopted by the large com-
mercial establishments. There a large bench
in a house, or perhaps an entire house, will
be devoted to the purpose. Cuttings that
are propagated before the first of April
will do well in a good position in any house
if well shaded. After that date what is
known as a north-side propagating house
is more desirable for the purpose. This
house is made by practically putting a
partition lengthwise of an even-span green-
house that extends east and west, thus form-
ing a low, narrow house at the north side
of a three-quarter span house. Architect-
urally the propagating house may be distinct
from the other. It is generally from six
to seven feet wide, with a bench three to
four feet wide. The most of the heating
pipes are placed under the bench, the
sides of which extend below the bottom,
sometimes to the floor, thus forming an
enclosure for the pipes and maintaining
a higher temperature under the cuttings
than that of the atmosphere above them,
producing what is termed "bottom" heat.
Cuttings of most genera of plants root more
quickly, and often better, for having a

PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 35

limited amount of bottom heat, and
the chrysanthemum is not an exception.
It should be very slight, however, 60
degrees being the highest temperature
allowable.

Cuttings in small quantities may be rooted
readily in boxes, seed pans, or flower pots.
I have made an excellent propagating frame
from a large box about ten inches deep,
with openings in the bottom for drainage,
covering it with moss and putting in three
inches of sand. When the cuttings were
inserted the box was covered with glass,
which could be removed entirely or raised
for ventilation, as required. For propa-
gating after April 1st, the coolest position
that is available should be chosen and some
means used to protect the cuttings as far
as possible from direct draughts of air,
which must necessarily be admitted at this
season. The outside temperature is very
much higher at this time, the sunlight
strong, and the cuttings are likely to suffer
from too rapid evaporation of the moisture
which they contain, and which they have
practically no means of obtaining until
roots are formed. Such conditions tend to

36 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

weaken and harden the cuttings, and, if
not mitigated as far as possible, will seriously
damage them. The house should be shaded
lightly and some material placed directly
over the cuttings. Newspapers answer the
purpose fairly well; in fact, they are excel-
lent if they can be kept in place. Plant-
protecting cloth or cheese cloth, placed
a few inches above the cuttings and kept
moist, is good. Abundance of moisture
must be supplied the cuttings at this season;
they should be watered several times during
the day, if the sun is shining. The bench,
walls, and walks should also be frequently
sprayed with cool water.

The method of propagation used in Eng-
land is to fill small pots — 3 or 4 inch —
with a mixture of one third each of sand,
leaf mould, and soil; then cuttings are
inserted near the edge and the pots placed
in some position where the necessary con-
ditions may be maintained. That method
is but little practised in this country. It
might, however, be adopted by amateurs
who desire to grow only a few plants.

Clean, sharp sand is the best material
for rooting the cuttings, but where this is

PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 37

not available excellent substitutes will be
found in fine crushed stone or brick, and
washed coal ashes.

MAKING THE CUTTINGS

As before stated, cuttings should be taken
from healthy plants only. The young shoots
that are to be- used should be reasonably
strong and of good colour. They should
be cut about three inches long, and, as they
are detached from the plants, tied in bundles,
with a label for each, and placed in water
immediately. A good cutting should be
from two to three inches long, being the top
of a growing shoot. This should be cut
clean with a sharp knife and one or two of
the lower leaves removed, the ends of the
upper leaves being cut off. By taking the
cutting between the fingers of one hand
and bringing these leaves together at the
tip of the cutting, they may all be clipped
at once, and with a little practice the work
of making the cuttings properly can be done
very rapidly. For the best results the stem
of the cutting should be reasonably soft
at the base. If too hard it will not root
so readily, although where it is desired to

38 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

get as many plants as possible of a variety,
as in the case of a new or scarce one, cuttings
may be made of the entire shoot, using a
single eye or joint for each. Should these
cuttings be very short, they may be fastened
to a toothpick or any small splint, allowing
it to extend an inch or more below the base
of the cutting, this being pushed into the
sand as a support. If not convenient to
put the cuttings in the sand as soon as
made, they should be left in water, or,
if to be kept for any length of time, should
be packed in damp moss and put in a cool
place.

Before putting the cuttings in the sand
the latter should be made firm by pounding
the surface smooth and, if dry, watered.
A good plan is to have a strip of wood about
three inches wide and of the length of the
width of the cutting bench. This will serve
as a rule to draw the lines for the cuttings.
Have a piece of wood shaped like a knife
blade, but about one fourth of an inch
thick. With this draw a line by the edge
of the stick about one and a half inches deep,
insert the cuttings, use the edge of the rule
to firm the sand by the side of the cuttings,

PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 39

and repeat. The cuttings, if strong, may-
be about two inches apart in the rows; if
weak, closer. The rows may also be closer
than three inches, if it is desired to utilize
space to the best advantage. As soon as
the cuttings are in the sand they should be
given a thorough watering, and must never
be allowed to suffer for want of moisture.
Cuttings should be well rooted in from two
to three weeks, without bottom heat;
with it, in from ten to fifteen days.
Propagation may also be effected by divi-
sion of the old plants, or, rather, by carefully
removing the young shoots with the roots
that have already formed in the soil. This
method is rarely practised, but may some-
times be used for getting bush plants or
standards started early.

GRAFTING FOR STANDARDS

Grafting the chrysanthemum is but rarely
practised, although the operation is not
difficult. Whenever it is done it is gener-
ally for the novelty of having two or more
colours, or varieties, produced by one plant.
It has occasionally been done for the purpose

40 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

of imparting the strength of a vigorous
variety to a weaker one, but there is very
little gained in that direction. Standards
that could not be obtained in any other way
may be formed by grafting.

The best method of procedure for grafting
bush or single stem plants is to select some
vigorous-growing variety to supply stocks.
Propagate the stocks as early as possible,
and when they have become well established
in their first pots, and have made five to six
inches in growth, cut them back to about
three inches, split the remaining stem about
one inch down, cut the scion wedge shape,
insert in the split made in the stem of the
stock, and bind the point of juncture firmly
but not tightly with raffia or some other soft
material. Then place the plants in a posi-
tion where the temperature can be kept
at from 60 to 70 degrees and a close, moist
atmosphere maintained, giving only suffi-
cient ventilation to keep the air pure, and
shade from bright sunshine. After ten days
or two weeks they may be removed to
ordinary conditions, still keeping them
shaded, and sprayed with water frequently
for another week, when they may be grad-

PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 4!

ually exposed to full sunlight and air. If it
is desired to graft more than one variety on
to one stock, the stocks must be "stopped"
when they are about three inches high.
(The process of stopping is fully described
in Chapter IV). If more than two or three
varieties are to be grown on one stock,
the stock must be stopped again; as many
shoots must be produced as the number
of varieties desired. When the shoots from
the last stopping have made a growth of
six inches, proceed as before described.
To graft a standard the stem must be
grown to the desired height and then grafted
with a single scion, or the stem may
be stopped and the resulting branches
grafted, as in the process previously
described.

A large globe, a bell glass, or even a large
fruit jar may be placed over the head of
the standard, and supported from below,
to produce the conditions of moisture and
heat, care being exercised that the matter
be not overdone. Some years ago a writer
gave an account in one of the English
horticultural publications of the wonderful
results obtained by grafting the large-

42 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

flowered varieties on stocks of Chrysanthe-
mum frutescens, commonly known as Paris
daisy. I tried the matter out, but the
results were not satisfactory.

CHAPTER IV
BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS

Time for propagating — Watering — Condition of soil used —
Drainage — Stopping or pinching — Tying and training — General
care — Supports for the blooms — The finishing operation —
Transporting the plants

To PRODUCE first-class specimen bush
plants or standards the grower must use
all available means at his command, leaving
nothing to chance that possibly can be
foreseen. Good large plants are more at-
tractive and impressive than good small
ones. To get large plants they must be
propagated early. It is advisable to put
in at least two lots of cuttings for this
purpose; three lots will be better, as "things"
will happen to the plants, no matter how
well they are managed. Early propagated
plants that are intended for large specimens
will sometimes make flower buds in March,
which generally will ruin them for the
purpose intended. The first lot of plants
should be propagated before January 1st,

43*

44 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

another lot about January 2Oth, and a third
lot about February I5th. If anything hap-
pens to either of the early lots the next can
be used, and as little time as possible lost.
First-class bush plants cannot be grown from
plants propagated after March 1st, much
less standards. Generally but few plants
are needed, and the small amount of space
required for the extra plants may well be
allowed. By this method the grower is
reasonably certain of getting some plants
to grow to a successful issue. The plants
not needed may be grown for cut flowers,
or for simple decorative plants, or be dis-
carded altogether. In selecting varieties
for bush plants choose those having a
vigorous but rather dwarf habit of growth,
moderately heavy foliage, good, strong
stem, and a full flower of fine colour. Com-
paratively few of the many varieties in
general cultivation will make good bush
plants or standards.

As soon as the cuttings have made roots
from one half to one inch long they should
be taken from the sand and potted, using
a soil composed of three fifths good loam
and one fifth each of sand and leaf mould

BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 45

thoroughly mixed. If leaf mould is not
available, old, light manure may be substi-
tuted. Two- to three-inch pots may be
used, according to the amount of roots the
cuttings may have. A little sphagnum
moss, with a few pieces of charcoal placed
in the bottom of each pot, will provide suffi-
cient drainage for these sizes of pots. The
soil should be made firm about the roots, and
the plants placed in a position near the glass
where they will receive the full benefit of
the sunlight, although they must be shaded
from it for a few days. The temperature
should range from 45 to 50 degrees at night
to 60 to 65 during bright days. The plants
should be given a thorough watering soon
after being potted; afterward water should
be applied only when the soil has become
fairly dry. If the soil is kept saturated
it will become sour and the plants will not
thrive. Watering must be done with good
judgment at all times, but special care must
be exercised in this respect immediately
after each repotting until the roots have
penetrated the soil freely. When the soil
has become filled with roots, no reasonable
amount of water will do harm, if the soil

46 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

is of proper texture and good drainage has
been provided.

WHEN TO REPOT AND SIZES OF POTS TO USE

If proper care is given, the plants will
make roots rapidly, and should be repotted
as soon as the ball of earth has become fairly
well filled with them. Do not at any time
allow them to remain in the pots until
nothing but a mass of roots can be seen
when the plants are turned out of the pots.
This condition is what is termed "pot-
bound," and will cause the growth to be
checked to a greater or less extent. Ex-
amine the plants frequently by turning some
of them out of the pots. When potting,
ample room should be left from the surface
of the soil to the top of the pots, for water.
This will vary from one half an inch for the
smallest pots to two or three inches for the
largest size. The soil for potting (or plant-
ing) should be in only a moderately moist
condition, so that if taken in the hand
and pressed firmly it will, when released,
retain the imprint of the hand, yet fall
apart readily. Such soil is in ideal
condition.

BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 47

In potting, the lighter the soil the
more firmly it should be packed. Heavy
soils should be packed very little.

THOROUGH DRAINAGE OF THE GREATEST
IMPORTANCE

Before repotting, the pots that are to
receive the plants should be provided with
some material that will allow any excess
of water that may be given the plants to
pass away freely and quickly. There is
nothing better for this purpose than pieces
of broken pots. Charcoal, clinkers, or
coarse cinders from coal, however, may be
used, either in conjunction with the broken
pots or alone. One good-sized piece should
be laid over the hole in the bottom of the
pot, the concave side down, and smaller
pieces placed over the large one. A single
layer of the small pieces will do for the
smaller sizes of pots, but for the largest
pots they should be at least one and one half
inches deep. A layer of sphagnum over the
drainage material for the smaller pots
and some rough, fibrous sod for the large
ones will be beneficial. Four-inch pots are

48 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

generally used for the second potting and
are probably better than a larger size for
the purpose, although I have had equally
good results by using six-inch. More care
will need to be exercised in watering when
the larger size is used.

This repotting, or "shifting," as it is
termed, must be repeated as the plants
require, using pots about two inches larger
at each repetition, until the plants are in
eight-inch pots. From these they should be
shifted into the pots in which they are to
flower, which may be either ten, twelve, or
fourteen-inch. The last is not too large for
healthy plants, which should produce from
two to three hundred good flowers. After the
plants have been potted into pots larger
than eight-inch they cannot be repotted
with safety, the body of soil being so heavy
that it is liable to fall apart, damaging the
roots. At the last potting some additional
fertilizer may be added to the soil. A
quart of bone meal and a shovelful of good
manure to each barrow load of the compost
prepared for general use will be safe and
prove beneficial. The coarser portions of
the soil should be selected for this potting.

BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 49
TRAINING THE PLANTS

When the young plants are from two to
three inches high they should be "stopped,"
which means that the point of the growing
stem or branch must be removed. This
is generally done by pinching it out with
the thumb and finger nails, or it may be
done with the point of a knife. This will
cause the plant to send out branches from
below. From three to five will generally
start after each stopping. After these
branches have made from three to five leaves,
according to the position they occupy,
they must also be stopped.

At this stage of development, training
to secure the desired form of the future plant
should begin. There is a great variety
of fancy forms in which the plants may
readily be trained, but such forms do not
find favour in this country. Practically
all of the plants grown here are trained in
one form, the difference being in degree
only. The form mostly used approaches
very nearly to a hemisphere, varying more
or less to globular or conical. The desired
form of the plant should be decided upon and
the stopping and tying be directed toward

5<D CHRYSANTHEMUMS

securing that form. If the summer training
is properly done, the plant will have assumed
its proper form, but in reduced scale, by the
time that stopping should be discontinued,
and all that remains to be done after the
flowering growths have been made is to
tie them in the positions that they are natur-
ally inclined to occupy, no bending or twist-
ing of the shoots or branches being required.
Small stakes may be placed about the
plants, and such shoots as are not in the
proper position to aid in the symmetrical
construction of the intended form may be
drawn gradually to the point where needed
by placing a piece of soft cord about the
shoot, near the point, and tying it to the
stakes. This work must be carefully done,
as the shoots split very easily at the point
of juncture. If the plants grow well, com-
paratively few of the shoots will require
tying, as the stopping, if properly done,
will very nearly produce and maintain the
proper form. Allow some shoots to grow
longer than others to fill vacant spaces,
stopping those shorter that are growing
away too fast. The natural tendency of
the plant is to grow upward, consequently

PLATE X

Stock plants in a flat. Started into growth in the spring, they send up
shoots which are taken off as cuttings. (See Plate VIII)

i

The cuttings have grown into plants in six-inch pots, have been pinched
back and will soon be repotted and allowed to develop two flowers each

ROOT CUTTINGS— III

BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 5!

the shoots that start from the upper parts
of the plants should be stopped shorter
than those starting from the sides. It
may also be desirable to tie down some of
the stronger shoots that develop at the top.
This stopping and tying should be continued
until about the last week in June or the first
week in July. Some growers continue the
stopping much later than this, but if the
plants were propagated early they should
be as large as desirable before making their
flowering shoots at the time stated. More
stopping will naturally make more flowers,
but they will not be so large, the foliage
will be smaller, and the general effect will
not be so good. When stopping is discon-
tinued before July 1st many of the growths
made after that date will produce four-
to five-inch blooms, even though the plant is
carrying from two to three hundred of them.
The treatment for standards is exactly
the same as for bush plants, except that,
instead of stopping the plants at two to
four inches high, the stem is allowed to
grow to whatever height the standard is
intended to be. Then the stem is stopped
and the body of the plant, or "head," is

52 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

formed by subsequent stopping and tying.
A strong stake must be set beside the stem
of the standard and the stem tied to it.

PREVENT THE PLANTS FROM BREAKING

As soon as the summer training is dis-
continued, place four or five stakes closely
about the plants and run some cord around
them, tying it to the stakes in such
manner that it will relieve any weight that
may fall upon the branches. The plants
are very easily broken at this time, and the
loss of a branch will ruin a plant.

After the plants have been in their flower-
ing pots long enough to have fairly well filled
the soil with roots, it is a good practice to
arrange the pots so that some material
may be placed about them to protect them
from the sun and heat. During the hot,
drying days of August and September,
when the soil in the pots is completely filled
with roots and the sun striking on the pots
causes the soil near the outside of the pots
to dry out very rapidly, the main body of
soil will remain sufficiently moist, but the
roots at the outside of the pots will suffer.
Boards placed about them will afford shade

BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 53

and prevent too rapid drying, or some straw
or litter may be used. This treatment,
as also the following, while not absolutely
necessary, will prove beneficial during the
periods of excessively hot weather, when
every available means should be taken to
improve the conditions. The chrysan-
themum grows best in a temperature rang-
ing from 45 to 75 degrees, and when the
temperature rises into the nineties, as it
frequently does, with a dry atmosphere
and burning sunshine, anything that can
conveniently be done to alleviate such
conditions will prove beneficial.

SHADING

The chrysanthemum thrives best in bright
sunshine generally, and whatever shade
is in any sense permanent in character is
detrimental to its best development and is
not to be tolerated. Even temporary shade
is not absolutely necessary, and, unless used
with good judgment, will be better done
without. If the matter is thoroughly under-
stood, temporary shade may be afforded to
bush plants during the hottest part of ex-
cessively hot days during July and August

54 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

with beneficial results. Under no other
circumstances must shading be considered.
Cheese cloth stretched above the plants,
either inside or outside the glass, for three
or four hours during the hottest part of
days when the thermometer reads 90
degrees or more in the shade, will afford the
plants all the protection that they should
have.

DISBUDDING

With good treatment and favourable
conditions during the earlier part of the
season, the plants should arrive at the final
period of their development — the formation
of buds and production of flowers — in
vigorous health and with at least two hundred
strong, flowering shoots, varying from
eighteen to thirty inches in length. About
September 1st these shoots will begin to form
buds, generally a cluster at the extremity
of each shoot and several below in the axils
of the leaves. To obtain the best results,
all of these, except one at the extremity of
each shoot, must be removed. This operation
is termed "taking" the bud and "dis-
budding," and is described in full detail

BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 55

in the chapter devoted to "growing exhi-
bition blooms." It is only necessary to
understand that the same operations are
to be performed on the bush plants, the sole
difference being that their flowering shoots
are smaller than the stems of the plants
grown for specimen blooms.

TYING THE BLOOMS IN POSITION

When the plants have been disbudded,
preparations should be made for getting
the blooms tied in the positions that they
must occupy in order to make a symmetrical
plant. Some means must be used to support
the blooms in their positions. There are
two methods of accomplishing this. Both
are excellent if well done and either of them
may be used with good results under vary-
ing conditions. One method is to use stakes
of either wood, bamboo, or galvanized wire,
the latter being much the neatest of all.
One stake is placed to each flowering shoot
and the latter tied to it in such manner as
will hold the bloom in the desired position.
If a plant is misshapen, and bending and
twisting the branches must be resorted to
in order to get it in shape, this will probably

56 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

be the best method to use. The other
method, and the one that is more generally
used at the present time for the plants,
is to make a wire frame about the plant,
tying the blooms to the frame or to strings
carried from one part of it to another. If
properly arranged, and if good judgment is
used in tying the blooms, the operator can
produce a finished plant that will be sym-
metrical in form and outline, without the
slightest trace of stiffness.

There are slight modifications of the form
of the frame that the ingenuity of the
operator will suggest, but the following is
the general plan of construction: Use six
iron stakes of such size and length as the
plants will require. No. 8 galvanized
wire makes good stakes for plants that will
tie out to about three to four feet in diameter;
larger plants should have stakes two and
one half to three and one half feet long,
made from quarter or five sixteenths inch
iron rods. If a loop is made at the top
it will be found convenient. For plants
that will measure, when tied out, seven to
eight feet in diameter, use stakes three
and one half feet long. Place one in the

BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 57

centre of the pot and drive it firmly into the
soil. Next divide the circumference of the
pot rim into five equal parts, place a stake
at the point of each division, and drive it
firmly into the soil. Wire each stake to
the pot by means of pieces of light wire wound
about it and drawn to a heavy wire put
around the pot under the rim. Next take
a piece of No. 12 or No. 14 wire and tie it
to the outer end of each stake, thus forming
a circle about the plant. The stakes should
be placed at such an angle as will give room
for tying the greater part of the blooms above
the circle; it is better to have some tied below
it. The judgment of the operator alone
can determine the question of the proper
angle to give the stakes. They can easily
be bent lower or higher after the circle of
wire is in place if it is desirable to do so.
Then take some short pieces of the same
size wire that was used for the circle
and fasten one end in the loop, if you have
one, of the centre stake, bringing the other
to the upper end of each of the side stakes
and secure it by tying. Also run a piece
of the wire from the centre stake to the circle,
midway between each two side stakes, mak-

58 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

ing ten wires in all. You have thus made a
frame like that of an umbrella having ten
divisions. If the work has been well done
two men can take hold of the frame and carry
the plant by it.

When you are ready to begin tying the
blooms, count the number of them on the
plant, divide the number by ten, and the
quotient will be the number of blooms to
be allotted to each division. This dividing
and allotting would better be done before
the short wires are tied in place at the lower
end. Then they may be raised to allow
the blooms to be passed from one division
to another, as undoubtedly some will con-
tain more than the required number and
others less. This work well done, the
plant is ready for tying the blooms in posi-
tion. The tying can be done at any time
after the buds have formed, but it is better
to defer doing it until the blooms are nearly
half open, as the size and character of the
bloom can then be determined, and a much
better finish given to the plant. Begin at
the centre of the plant and work outward and
consequently downward. The blooms will,
in all probability, vary considerably in size

BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 59

and length of stem. In tying, place blooms
of different size and height adjoining, as
far as possible. If this point is carefully
carried cut, the plant will be symmetrical
in outline and yet free from the slightest
appearance of stiffness. Good taste and
judgment are very important factors in
the successful outcome of this work.
Silkoline or green smilax twine should be
used for tying. Pieces of this may be
stretched from each of the short wires to
the other, and blooms that have to be
tied between two wires may be fastened
to the strings. Each section should be tied
in conjunction with the others, working
from the centre of the plant and entirely
around it until finished. The finished plant
should show practically none of the frame-
work.

The frame for tying out the blooms of
standards is very similar, except that the
centre stake should be made of wood about
one inch square. Two holes should be
bored through this at right angles to each
other, with a gimlet or small bit, just large
enough to allow a piece of No. 8 wire to
pass through, and at such height as will

6O CHRYSANTHEMUMS

allow the circle of wire that is to be fastened
to the ends of the two wires to come in
proper position for tying the blooms. These
two wires correspond to the side stakes of
the frame for bush plants. Short wires
should now be placed from the circle to the
top of the centre stake as in the other frame,
the only difference being that there will be
eight instead of ten divisions. The method
of tying should be the same as that for bush
plants.

GETTING THE PLANTS TO THE EXHIBITION

As large specimen bush plants and stand-
ards are grown for exhibition more frequently
than for any other purpose, the question
of transporting them to the place of exhi-
bition is a serious one, especially if the
distance is considerable. When the distance
is not more than ten or fifteen miles they
may be carried with reasonable assurance
of safety, generally, in spring wagons of
some kind. With the plants fastened firmly
in the wagon, with reasonably good roads,
and a careful driver, they will reach their
destination in good order, barring accidents.
When the plants must be sent to a consider-

BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 6 1

able distance they must necessarily go
by rail, either freight or express.

If a number of plants are to be sent,
and sufficient time can be allowed, the best
method is to engage a box car and send the
plants by freight, as they can all be placed
in the car and made fast so that no harm can
come to them. When the plants have to
be sent singly they must be crated for ship-
ment, and the crating thoroughly done.
Use strong material for making the crate,
but as light as possible while consistent with
strength. Make a good base and fasten
the pot to the bottom firmly, bracing and
supporting it from each of the sides of
the crate. To reduce the diameter of the
plant, thus allowing the crate to be as small
as possible, some of the blooms on the out-
side of the plant may be drawn up, loose
from the frame if such is used, and tied to-
gether, and returned to their original posi-
tions upon the delivery of the plant. If the
pot is properly fastened in the crate, the
plant itself will need no support. It will
be well to cover the crate with poultry
netting, to prevent anything from being
dropped or pushed through it; also to

62 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

prevent any one from evincing their love
for flowers by nipping off a few blooms.
Plants properly crated will carry safely
hundreds of miles.

SCALES OF POINTS FOR JUDGING PLANTS

The Chrysanthemum Society of America
has adopted scales of points for judging
plants at exhibitions, which are as follows:

A — Scale of points for bush plants and
standards, single specimen or any number
up to six, in an exhibition where the class
under consideration does not form the chief
feature in the exhibition hall:

Points

Equality of size and forms of plants 40

Excellence of bloom 35

Foliage 25

Total 100

B — Scale of points for bush plants, ex-
hibits of more than six or for any number
of specimen plants in an exhibition where
the class under consideration forms the
chief feature in the exhibition hall:

Points

Equality of size and forms of plants 35

Size of bloom 40

Foliage 25

Total . . 100

A PRIZE WINNING STANDARD

Like specimen bush plants, standards are grown chiefly for exhibitions.
The amateur will probably get more enjoyment from outdoor kinds and
single exhibition blooms

BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 63

C — Scale of points for plants grown to
single stem and one bloom. A height of
not over three feet is recommended for
plants in this class, and pots not over six
inches in diameter:

Points

Excellence of bloom 40

Compact, sturdy growth 35

Foliage 25

Total . . 100

CHAPTER V

THE SCIENCE AND PRACTICE OF FEEDING

Chemical analysis of the plant — Sources of food supply — Danger
of overfeeding — Preparing liquid fertilizers — Varying the foods
— Surface dressings

WHILE it is not absolutely necessary that
the grower should know the chemical com-
position of the plants under his care to enable
him to produce good plants or blooms,
this knowledge may prove beneficial to
him and aid him materially in providing
the necessary food for his plants, and should,
at least, make his work more interesting.
Dr. A. B. Griffiths, the eminent agri-
cultural chemist, has given the chemical
composition of the chrysanthemum, in one-
hundredth parts, determined by analysis.
The element nitrogen forms 2.92 parts of
the entire organic substance of the plant.
The mineral substance is made up of:

Potash 16.2 parta

Lime 26.3 "

Soda 10.4 "

64

SCIENCE AND PRACTICE OF FEEDING 65

Magnesia 10.2 parts

Iron oxide 3.7 "

Phosphoric acid 19-5 "

Silica ! 6.0 "

Chlorine 3.0 "

Sulphuric acid 4.7 "

If the food supplied to the plants were
based upon a literal assumption of the facts
as demonstrated by the analysis, we should
probably be obliged to go to the druggist
to have it prepared. The practical experience
of many growers for years, however, has
demonstrated the fact that soils generally
contain enough of most of the elements
necessary to the development of all forms
of plant life. The soils found in practically
all parts of the United States, with the
exception of the Western deserts and alkali
regions, contain more or less of all the ele-
ments in the structure of the chrysanthe-
mum. Generally there is an insufficient
supply of some of the elements for the
highest development of the plants; conse-
quently we must supply the deficiency.

ELEMENTS OF PLANT FOOD

As it is practically impossible for us to
know positively how much of the different

66 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

necessary elements the soil may contain,
we can only treat the different soils intelli-
gently by grouping them under three general
heads and designating them rich, medium,
and poor. Even rich soil should have some
fertilizer applied to it at some time, as the
elements of plant food are constantly being
absorbed by the plants growing in them and
are being dissolved and carried away by
rains; or, as in the case of plants growing
in pots, being washed out by the daily
waterings. As rich soils are rarely to be
had, we will assume that the soil which has
been prepared for the general pottings is
of medium fertility.

THE DIFFERENT FERTILIZERS

What are the elements in which the soil
is likely to be deficient? From what sources
may we best procure those elements? The
practical experience of cultivators of the
soil, aided by the scientific research of
competent chemists, has demonstrated the
fact that, with rare exceptions, soils generally
contain sufficient of all the elements except
nitrogen, phosphoric acid, and potash. The
available sources of supply of these three

PLATE XIV

Looking down on the cluster of buds. The crown bud is in the centre
ready for " taking "

Removing the undesired terminal buds, or "taking" the crown bud. A
steady hand, a bright eye and a sharp knife are needed if the crown bud
is to remain unharmed

TAKING THE BUD— I

SCIENCE AND PRACTICE OF FEEDING 67

elements are various animal manures, refuse
from the carcasses of animals, and various
mineral substances. Animal manures all
contain more or less of each of the three
elements needed, and the urine more of them
than the solid matter. Manure from horses,
cows, oxen, or sheep is the most desirable,
that from sheep containing more than three
times as much nitrogen as that from cows,
while that from horses contains, when fresh,
about twice as much. Cow manure is
always preferable to horse manure, how-
ever, because of its ability to retain the
fertilizing elements longer. Sheep manure,
if properly cared for, is better than cow ma-
nure, but less of it should be used, propor-
tionately. Ground bone or bone meal that
has been properly prepared is one of the
best and safest sources of plant food. This
contains a large amount of phosphoric
acid, considerable nitrogen, and lime. Dried
blood and tankage supply nitrogen, as do
also nitrate of soda and sulphate of ammonia.
Nitrate of soda contains nitrogen in the most
available form of all the sources of supply.
Nitrate of potash is a good but expensive
source of supply for potash. Wood ashes,

68 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

if good, contain some potash, but the amount
is uncertain. What are known as "complete
fertilizers" may be used. These contain
all three of the elements in varying amounts.
When their nature is fully understood they
may be used with good results, but great
care is needed or damage will be done.

The soil was supplied with some plant food
and in sufficient quantity when the soil and
manure were composted and the bone added.
This soil should contain sufficient food to
give the plants an abundant supply until
they have been in their flowering pots long
enough to allow the roots to distribute
themselves evenly and thoroughly through
all parts of it. If the plants have had
proper treatment and have made growth
as they should have done, they would be
ready to shift into their flowering pots at
any time from May 2Oth to June loth.
Assuming that they received their final
potting about June 1st, and stopping was
discontinued July 1st, the plants should be
growing vigorously and the soil well filled
with roots by July I5th, when it will
be well to consider the matter of sup-
plying them with food in liquid form. It

SCIENCE AND PRACTICE OF FEEDING 69

must be distinctly understood, however,
that not the calendar, but the condition of
each individual plant, must determine the
question of when to begin this feeding.
Some varieties may not require it at all.
If the plants are not growing vigorously,
with heavy foliage or dark-green colour, do
not give them additional food. When in
fine health the chrysanthemum is a good
feeder and a robust grower. If not
growing freely it is not in good health,
and any attempt to force it into health
by increasing the amount of feeding ma-
terial in the soil will simply aggravate the
situation.

SUPPLYING THE PLANTS WITH LIME

While scientific authorities do not consider
lime to be a direct fertilizer, the fact that
it is a necessary element of the plant food
makes it a fertilizer for all practical purposes.
As lime appears in the largest quantity of
any single element in the ash of the chrysan-
themum, a reasonable amount of it should
be supplied to the plants; for while most
soils contain some lime, many have an in-
sufficient amount, and, as in the case of the

7<D CHRYSANTHEMUMS

chrysanthemum, practical experience has
corroborated the evidence given by the
chemist in his analysis. It will be well to
supply the plants with more food than
the soil is likely to contain. Professional
growers know that lime improves the quality
of the plants very materially. This is
particularly true of plants grown for cut
blooms. A liberal use of lime makes the
stems stiffer, the foliage firmer, and gives
the blooms more substance. Nitrogen is
the element that is generally lacking more
than the others, because it is more quickly
absorbed, dispelled, or wasted.

While lime forms such an important part
of the substance of the chrysanthemum, it
is rarely supplied at the time the soil is
composted, for the reason that the plants
do not require it so much when small;
and also for the reason that lime, in the
form in which it is generally used, has the
power to a greater or less extent to set free
ammonia, which is one of the forms in which
nitrogen is supplied to plants, thus wasting
more or less of the most valuable fertilizing
element. Lime may now be easily supplied
to the plants in several ways. A surface

SCIENCE AND PRACTICE OF FEEDING Jl

dressing of wood ashes, applying a small
handful to each large pot, is one way, as
this product contains considerable lime.
Wood ashes may also contain a small amount
of potash. A dressing of air-slaked lime
may be given in the same proportion as
the wood ashes. The best method is to
slake a half bushel of good lime in a barrel.
After it is well slaked, fill the barrel with
water. Use this lime solution, well stirred,
at the rate of one gallon to eight or ten
gallons of clear water, giving the plants a
watering with it every ten days or two
weeks. Assuming that feeding the plants
with liquid food was begun July I5th, a
watering with lime water is given at the
outset. Some liquid manure should be
prepared for the next application. Get a
fifty-gallon barrel and an old burlap bag,
into which put about a bushel and a half
of fresh cow manure; that taken from the
stables is the best, as it will contain some
urine. Put the bag of manure in the barrel
and fill the latter with water, allowing it
to stand for two or three days, giving the
bag a stirring each day. Apply it to the
soil in the pots diluted with clear water in

72 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

the proportion of one gallon of liquid to
five or six gallons of clear water. In using
liquid fertilizers of any kind do not apply
them when the soil is dry. If such is the
case give the soil a watering with clear water
before applying the liquid. Never give the
plants two successive waterings with liquid
fertilizers. Follow a watering with liquid
fertilizer by one with clear water. This
method not only distributes the feeding
through a given period of time, but is
much safer. One or two waterings with
any fertilizer of a given strength may do
no harm, but a third watering of the same
strength might cause one or more chemical
elements to accumulate in the soil in suffi-
cient quantity to cause injury to the plants.

The soil is a laboratory where chemical
changes are constantly taking place under
favourable conditions of moisture and tem-
perature, and during the summer it is be-
lieved that they are sometimes quite rapid.

In the case of chrysanthemums growing
in less than a cubic foot of soil — almost
completely filled with roots — any material
changes are likely to affect the health of
the plant, and whether beneficial or detri-

SCIENCE AND PRACTICE OF FEEDING 73

mental can only be determined when probably
too late. Unless you desire to experiment,
regardless of results, it will be the part of
wisdom to err on the side of safety. Clear
water, judiciously applied, acts as a restrain-
ing and rectifying agent, dissolving, diluting,
and distributing the chemicals which the
soil contains, as well as bringing them in
contact with the roots in the only form
(soluble) that they can absorb them, and,
with proper drainage, carrying away excess
and minimizing the danger of any chemicals
accumulating in the soil in sufficient quan-
tity to do injury. It is also better to change
the kind of liquid fertilizer at least every
week. Having given the plants a watering
with lime water, followed by a week of
watering alternately with cow manure and
clear water, some other form of food may
be supplied.

NITRATE OF SODA

This is an excellent medium for supplying
the plant with nitrogen, and, when judi-
ciously used, will generally benefit the plants
greatly. It is entirely safe to use at the
rate of one half a tablespoonful (equal to

74 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

about one half an ounce) to two gallons
of water.

NITRATE OF POTASH

For supplying the plants with potash, this,
commonly known as saltpetre, is the best
of all materials that can be used for the
purpose. It is quite expensive, but, when
small quantities are needed and it is used
as economically as possible, is the most
satisfactory of all the forms of potash. It
also contains considerable nitrogen, and may
be used in the same manner and the same
proportions as nitrate of soda. The plants
should by all means have a week of water-
ing with this food early in the feeding season.

SULPHATE OF AMMONIA

This fertilizer contains a greater amount
of nitrogen than any other. It is slower
in action than nitrate of soda. It is also
somewhat heavier, but may be used in the
same proportion by weight.

COMPLETE CHEMICAL FERTILIZERS

These may be used if their strength and
character are understood. There are in-

SCIENCE AND PRACTICE OF FEEDING 75

numerable brands, containing varying
amounts of the three required elements.
By the laws of most states, the manu-
facturer is compelled to state the formula
on the package containing the fertilizers.
If any are to be used for chrysanthemums,
those should be selected that have a low
percentage of nitrogen and reasonably high
percentages of phosphoric acid and potash.
There are some brands that are now pre-
pared expressly for chrysanthemums and
sold by seedsmen. The ordinary brands
may be safely used at the rate of a half-
tablespoonful to two or three gallons of
water, while the special brands have special
directions given for their use. A fertilizer
containing 2 to 3 per cent, of nitrogen, 7 to
8 per cent, of potash, and 9 to 10 per cent,
of phosphoric acid can be safely used for a
short period, at a strength of one half a
tablespoonful to three gallons of water.
Sheep manure may be used for one week of
watering, making a liquid from it as directed
for cow manure, only do not use more than
one half bushel of manure to the barrel.

It is not necessary that all the different
fertilizers here specified shall be used. A

76 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

choice of them is optional with the grower,
using a reasonable variety for change. These
supplemented by light surface dressings
will carry the plants to a successful finish.
A light surface dressing of fine ground bone
meal should be given early in the season.
Later, one of good manure should be applied
sufficiently heavy to protect any roots that
may come to the surface, and about the first
of September a small handful of good wood
ashes to each pot should prove beneficial.
The feeding of bush plants may be continued
until the blooms are more than half developed,
provided always that the plants give evi-
dence by their condition that they are
assimilating the food which is given them.

CHAPTER VI
GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS

Time for propagating — First potting — Growing in beds or
benches — In boxes — In pots — Six-inch pot plants — Planting

— Watering — Staking and tying — General care — Feeding —
Prevention of damage by insects and disease — Taking the buds
and disbudding — Crown buds — Scalding and dampening of the
blooms — Shading — Cutting — Storing — Packing — Shipping

— Dressing the blooms — Staging — The results

FOR getting first-class blooms of most
varieties for exhibition purposes the plants
should be propagated before May 1st.
While good blooms may be had from plants
propagated as late as June 1st, the best
flowers will generally be produced by plants
that have been propagated during the
months of March and April, other things
being equal. Some varieties will produce
decidedly the best blooms from plants prop-
agated as early as February. With the
exception of a few varieties, however, plants
that are propagated from April 1st to 2Oth
will produce first-class blooms. Follow the
instructions and suggestions given under

77

78 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

the head of "Propagation" (Chapter III).
Potting should be done as advised for bush
plants. As the sun will be much higher
and its rays much more powerful at this
time, the plants will not necessarily need
to be placed so near the glass as is advisable
for bush plants, and they will require
shading for a few days longer. They
should then be given full benefit of the
sun and during the hottest part of the
day should be sprayed overhead several
times with clean water.

What is the best method of growing the
plants? The answer will depend largely
upon contingent circumstances. If the
grower must be economical of both space
for the plants and labour bestowed upon
them, the best method will be to grow them
in either solid beds or raised benches.
Solid beds are objectionable because they
do not allow the grower sufficient control of
the roots, generally. If they have to be
used, abundant drainage must be provided
by placing under the soil in which the plants
are to grow at least six inches of broken
stone or bricks, or coarse clinkers and cinders
from coal. Benches about six inches deep,

a

GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 79

containing from four to five inches of soil,
are preferable to solid beds. These must
also be provided with abundant openings
in the bottom for draining away any excess
of water. Growing the plants in boxes
that will contain from six to ten plants is
a very satisfactory way. In fact, when not
more than two or three hundred blooms are
required, and the blooms, or at least a part
of them, must be kept for some time after
they are fully developed, this is the most
satisfactory method of all, as when the
blooms in any box are nearly matured the box
may be taken from the house to the storage
room, where the flowers will keep in good
condition for a month or more. The plants
may also be grown in pots. But save
in the case of plants that are grown for the
purpose of exhibiting in the pots as they
grew, when six-inch pots are used, this is
the least desirable method of all, although
good blooms may be produced. Plants
that are grown to single stem and bloom in
six-inch pots are nearly always a feature
of chrysanthemum exhibitions. They are
also very desirable as house plants and
for decorative purposes. For this method

8O CHRYSANTHEMUMS

of culture, dwarf-growing varieties should
be used and the plants propagated after
May ist.

When ready to be shifted from their first
pots the plants should be transferred direct
to the soil in which they are to grow and
flower. Repotting is unnecessary, except
where the arrangements for their permanent
quarters are not completed, in which case
a shift into four- or six-inch pots would be
preferable to having them become checked
by being pot-bound.

The distance apart for planting will
depend somewhat upon the character of the
varieties. Those having large, heavy foliage
require more room than those of less robust
growth, but as only strong-growing varieties
should ever be grown to any extent for
exhibition purposes, the standard distance
ought to be made ample for the strongest
growers. To get first-class blooms this
distance should be ten by twelve inches;
rows twelve inches apart, and plants ten
inches apart in the rows. If space is limited,
eight by ten or ten by ten inches will do,
but the first-named distance will give the
plants better chance for full development.

GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 8 1

The varieties should be so disposed that
tall-growing ones will not overgrow dwarf
ones. The extreme dwarf-growing varieties
should be selected for the side benches, tall
ones being grown in centre or back benches.
It is best to plant varieties in blocks as
much as possible, and early, mid-season and
late varieties as much as possible together.
When grown in large quantities an entire
house or section of a house should be
planted with early-flowering varieties, an-
other with mid-season, and another with
late varieties.

BOXES BEST FOR SMALL QUANTITIES

If the plants are to be grown in boxes,
a convenient size for the purpose is twenty-
five inches long, twelve to fifteen inches wide,
and eight to ten inches deep, inside measure-
ments. This size is easy to handle and will
accommodate six plants. Larger boxes that
will accommodate ten or twelve plants may
be used, but are not convenient for handling,
particularly so after the blooms are devel-
oped. Cypress is good material to use in
making the boxes. Narrow strips, nailed
either lengthwise or crosswise of the bottom,

82 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

with spaces three fourths of an inch wide,
will provide the necessary drainage. The
soil for planting should be from six to
eight inches deep. This will allow ample
room for later surface dressings. When
the plants are to be grown in pots, six-,
eight-, and ten-inch ones are used. Three
plants may be grown to each of the latter
size.

Before the plants have filled the soil in
their first pots completely with roots the
beds or boxes should be filled with soil in
proper condition as to moisture. Use soil
prepared as directed in Chapter II. The ball
of soil in which the young plants are growing
should be moist but not wet. For planting
in benches or beds have a piece of heavy cord
the length of the bed, and stick pins in it
at the distance that the rows of plants are
to be apart across the beds. Fasten the
cord about two inches back of where the first
row of plants is to be, at one side of the
bed, lengthwise. By placing a plant two
inches away from the line, and opposite
the point indicated by the pins, the work of
planting can be done rapidly. Set the
plants sufficiently deep to allow about one

GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 83

inch of soil over the ball of earth from the
pots and leave a slight depression about
the plants to allow them to be watered for
some time without watering the entire mass
of soil until the roots have spread through it.
Make the soil directly around the plants
quite firm; in fact the soil in the entire bed
should be made reasonably firm. If the soil
is very light it should be packed as firmly as
possible. Give one thorough watering soon
after planting, after which water only as the
plants show signs of dryness at the roots.

SYRINGE AND SPRAY FREELY

Syringing with the hose should be done
frequently, and during bright, hot days spray
them over two or three times. Syringing
and spraying overhead during hot weather
can scarcely be overdone, so long as the water
is not applied in sufficient quantity to soak
and sour the soil and the plants are allowed
to dry off as soon as the hottest part of the
day is past.

GETTING STRAIGHT STEMS

As soon as the plants begin to root freely
through the soil, they will grow rapidly, and

84 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

some means must be used to support them in
order to get straight stems with good flowers.
When the plants are grown in beds or benches
there are two methods that may be used.
Wires may be stretched lengthwise of the
benches above each row of plants and as the
plants grow they may be tied to the wires.
As they make further growth another wire
may be stretched, ten to twelve inches above
the first, and this process repeated as often
as required. For narrow benches and dwarf-
growing varieties this method does very well,
but for wide benches and tall-growing varie-
ties is very inconvenient, as it is difficult to
get at the plants for syringing, tying, and
disbudding. When the plants are grown in
considerable quantities the most commonly
practised method is to stretch two lines of
light wire — No. 1 8 or 20 is heavy enough —
to each row of plants lengthwise of the beds,
one a few inches above the soil and the other
sufficiently high to be considerably above
the plants when they have finished their
growth. A piece of hemp or jute twine is
then tied from one wire to the other by each
plant, and as the plants grow they are tied to
the twine. Wire or bamboo stakes may be

GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 85

used in much the same way, except that the
lower wire will not be required. When the
plants are grown in pots or boxes, stakes of
some kind must be usejd. For boxes, a good
plan is to have stakes of about the required
length and place them in the soil at the
sides of the box, fastening them in
position by driving a small staple over
them and into the side of the box. If
No. 8 wire is used this will make a firm
support.

REMOVE SIDE BRANCHES AND BUSHES

After the plants have become established
they will begin to make growths or branches
from the main stem at the axils of the leaves.
These must be removed or they will absorb
the nourishment that should go toward mak-
ing a strong stem for the future bloom. The
plant must be compelled to concentrate
all its energies at one point. These side
branches are easily pinched out with the
thumb and fingers while less than an inch
long, and they should never be allowed to get
longer. Always be sure, however, to leave
one or two of them at the top of the stem, for
the stem will frequently "go blind" — that is,

86 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

the growing point will become checked, some-
times from no apparent cause, and cease to
grow. If all of the side branches should be
removed in such case the plant would make
no further growth and consequently produce
no bloom. In case of the stem going blind,
allow the strongest of the upper side branches
to grow, and when long enough it should be
tied to the support, when it will form the
main stem.

The surface of the soil should be stirred
frequently to allow the sun and air to act
upon it; also to kill weeds that will generally
start freely. Suckers will soon begin to grow
from the base of the stems. These should
be kept in subjection by removing a part
of them and pinching out the tips of the
others. Some varieties produce suckers
much more freely than others. Those that
do not produce them freely should have
but few removed, as it is upon these
that the supply of cuttings for the next year
depends.

The depredations of insects and diseases
should be forestalled ; the ounce of prevention
is always worth many pounds of cure. A
constant and intelligent watchfulness must

GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 87

be maintained and treatment given as
\ advised in Chapter I.

TIME FOR APPLYING SPECIAL FOODS

When planting has been done between
May 1 5th and 2Oth, the plants, if growing
as they should, will be ready for some special
feeding about July I5th. As the matter of
special feeding has been thoroughly discussed
in Chapter V, and as the same general prin-
ciples apply to the feeding of all plants, it is
only necessary to make slight changes or
modifications of the treatment for plants
grown for cut flowers. Surface dressings
may be used to better advantage for plants
growing in beds or boxes than for those
growing in pots. The first food should be an
application of fine ground bone meal at the
rate of one pound to twenty square feet of
surface. Cow or sheep manure water may
then be used for a week, followed by an
application of lime water or of dry air-
slaked lime at about double the rate advised
for the bone. Sulphate of ammonia should
be given next, after which a surface dressing
of well-decomposed cow or sheep manure,
about one inch thick, should be applied.

88 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

When the buds are well formed one week of
watering with nitrate of soda may be given,
after which this chemical should not be used
again. Alternate waterings with cow or
sheep manure water, sulphate of ammonia,
and nitrate of potash will give sufficient
variety of food, and, if properly applied, will
produce first-class blooms. These special
feedings must always be consistent with
good judgment and observation, bearing in
mind the admonitions and advice given in
Chapter V.

SELECTION OF BUDS IMPORTANT

About the first of August, sometimes ear-
lier, but generally a little later, some of the
early-flowering varieties will begin to form
what are known to professional florists and
gardeners as "crown buds." The growing
tip of the plant will appear to divide, and
instead of a single stem continuing to grow
there will be (generally) three branches
growing from the top of the plant. In the
axil of these branches will appear a small,
elongated bud. This is the crown bud,
a very important factor in the produc-
tion of first-class chrysanthemum blooms.

GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 89

There are always in cultivation a few varie-
ties on which the crown bud produces an
inferior bloom, but with most varieties
blooms produced from crown buds selected
at the proper time will prove superior, other
things being equal. The question of whether
the crown bud shall be used or discarded will
occasionally depend upon the variety pro-
ducing it, but generally upon the date on
which it makes its appearance. This matter
will be fully discussed farther on. To get
first-class exhibition blooms it is important
that the crown bud be selected whenever it
appears at the proper time. Blooms of the
same variety will often be fully one fourth
larger from crown than from terminal buds.
They will also be fuller and of better sub-
stance, and the stem and foliage will gen-
erally be better, although some varieties
develop a long bare "neck" just below the
bloom when the crown bud is used. There
are, however, enough varieties in cultivation
that do not have this objectionable feature
to allow those that do have it to be reserved
for purposes in which the neck will not be
objectionable. Blooms of pink varieties
sometimes lack colour when crown buds are

9O CHRYSANTHEMUMS

used, but this also is not a serious objection,
if the bud has not been taken too early.

In case it is desired to use the crown bud,
all the little branches that have started to
grow about it must be removed before they
are an inch long, care being taken that the
bud is not damaged in doing so. The point
of a small knife blade is a good instrument
for doing this work. If the branches are not
removed, the crown bud will not develop,
the branches appropriating all the substance
necessary to its development.

If the time is not propitious, or if for any
other reason it is desired that the crown bud
shall be discarded, remove all of the branches
that have started from the top of the plant
except the strongest and best one, allowing
this to remain and develop. Generally this
will grow for about three or four weeks, and
then produce three or four globular or
slightly flattened buds in a compact cluster.
These are known as " terminal" buds, so
called because they terminate the plant's
season of growth, and if they are all removed
the plant will produce no flowers. If it is
desired to use a terminal bud for producing a
bloom, all of the buds of the cluster are

GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 9!

removed except the central or largest one.
The same method may be used for removing
these as was advised for the crown bud, and
the same care must be taken in order that the
remaining bud be not damaged. Thus it
will be seen that "taking" the bud is merely
selecting and deciding which bud to retain.
The operation of removing the discarded
buds and growths is called "disbudding."
It should be borne in mind that, in disbud-
ding, all buds and growths are to be removed
from the given stem of cut bloom plants and
from the flowering shoots of bush plants,
except the buds that have been taken, or
selected, to produce the flower. Disbud-
ding should never be done during the heat of
the day, as the growth is then wilted and
tough, and there is greater danger of damag-
ing the remaining buds. If done in the early
morning or during cool, cloudy weather,
while the growth is firm, the buds will snap
out very easily.

The question of whether to take the crown
bud or allow the plant to grow and develop
a terminal bud can only be determined
by the judgment of the operator in each
individual instance. The date upon which

92 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

each appears is the most important point to
be considered, and the earliest date on which
crown buds may be taken and produce sat-
isfactory blooms will depend largely upon
latitude and local conditions. A general
principle that may be used as a guide is that
cool, dry weather conditions tend to hasten
the formation of buds, and vice versa. In
the northern hemisphere the chrysanthemum
generally forms its buds during the months
of August and September. In the southern
hemisphere they would be formed in February
and March. In the vicinity of the fortieth
degree of north latitude, and in the eastern
part of the United States, the earliest date
on which crown buds of the best mid-season
or late exhibition varieties may be taken with
reasonable assurance that they will develop
good blooms is August I5th, and only a very
few varieties will develop satisfactory blooms
from buds taken before the 2Oth. Crown
buds of early-flowering varieties may be
taken as early as August 1st with reasonable
assurance of producing good blooms.
Farther north, or when grown at a high alti-
tude, they might possibly be taken a few
days earlier; while farther south they could

GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 93

not be taken so early. There is sometimes
considerable difference between plants of the
same variety grown in the same locality by
different growers. Unless the grower is fully
acquainted with the character of the va-
rieties grown, in respect to the bud develop-
ment, it will be a safe rule to take no buds
before August 2Oth. Some varieties will not
produce good blooms from buds taken at
that date, but they are few. When a crown
bud is formed early in August and is not
taken, the branch that is let grow will pro-
duce what is called a second crown bud.
This differs slightly from the first crown bud
in having short terminal growths about it,
and they show buds at the same time as the
crown bud; almost as soon as the latter can
be seen. This second crown bud will gener-
ally make a first-class bloom. While per-
haps not quite so large as blooms from the
first crown bud, it will be better finished.

As the buds are forming, special efforts
should be made to have the plants free from
all insects, and also means taken to prevent
the development of mildew. During the
last half of August and the first half of
September the hose should be used freely,

94 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

although carefully, on the under side of the
leaves to dislodge any red spider that may
be lurking there, and measures taken to
eradicate all aphides; for if allowed to remain
and work their way into the opening blooms,
which they will surely do if not destroyed,
they will ruin the blooms.

As soon as the buds begin to show the
first indication of bursting open their scaly
covering, all syringing and spraying of the
house must be discontinued. If water is
allowed to get into the top of the opening
bloom there is danger of damping or scalding
the tips of the rays or petals. When the
blooms are about half open some of the
petals on one side of the blooms will be found
to be browned, as though they had been
scalded by hot water. This has been caused
by water accumulating there either from
spraying, the drip from the roof, or con-
densation caused by too much moisture in
the atmosphere during cool nights. All
watering must be done as early in the day as
possible, and no more water used than can
possibly be avoided. Abundant ventilation
must be provided night and day in order to
keep a good circulation of air above and

BLACK APHIS ON THE CHRYSANTHEMUM

Each insect is a pump drawing out the life juices of the plant. The green
aphis is harder to destroy than the black, but there are means for combat-
ing both — See Chapter IX.

GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 95

between the plants, being careful, however,
that during stormy weather rain does not
get blown in through the ventilators. Ven-
tilation will also aid in keeping the tempera-
ture down, which should be as low as possible
generally. Forty to fifty degrees at night is
the proper temperature after the buds are
formed, and while it will frequently be im-
possible to keep it so low, get it as near those
figures as possible. If it occasionally goes
below 40 degrees no harm will be done.

Many of the red, crimson, and claret
varieties burn badly, particularly if fed after
the blooms begin to show colour. Feeding
of such coloured varieties should be dis-
continued early, and if they can be placed
by themselves where a light shading can
be given them the burning may be pre-
vented. Bright pink specimens will also be
benefited by a light shading after the
blooms are half developed. Shading further
may prove beneficial in preventing, or at
least alleviating, damping. This is a trouble
that affects highly fed and highly developed
blooms of certain varieties, and is very
discouraging. The condition is brought
about by high temperature, accompanied

96 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

by a considerable degree of humidity when
chrysanthemums are in flower. It fre-
quently attacks the finest and most beautiful
varieties. There is no positive way entirely
to prevent this condition; the best that can
be done is to endeavour to relieve it so
far as possible. Heat appears to be the
principal cause of the trouble; therefore any
means that can be used to reduce the tem-
perature will probably prove beneficial to
a greater or less degree. If the blooms
are nearly matured they may be removed
to some cool storage where abundant venti-
lation can be given. Keep as dry and as
cool as possible and remove any damaged
petals that touch others.

If it becomes necessary to hold the blooms
for a week or more after they are matured
or "finished," they must be removed from the
house in which they were grown when they
are about five sixths developed, and put in
some place where conditions are similar to
those described in Chapter II. When the
plants have been grown in pots or boxes
they may be removed to the storage room
and kept in good condition for a month or
more with very little trouble, an occasional

GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 97

watering and inspection to see that they are
all right being all that should be needed if
the conditions are right.

When the plants have been grown in beds
or benches the flowers must, of course, be
cut and stored in some receptacle that will
contain water. Whatever means are used
for storing them, the blooms should not be
crowded. Clean tubs made from half-bar-
rels, with four strips of wood nailed to the
sides projecting about two feet above them,
to which heavy cord or light wire is attached
from one to the other and across from
opposite corners, make excellent receptacles
for storing the blooms. Fill the tubs about
one third full of water, and place the blooms
against the supports provided. A tub of
this kind will hold from twenty-five to forty
blooms, according to their size and the
character of the foliage. They should
always be cut in the early morning or during
cool, cloudy weather, while the foliage is
firm, and should be placed in cold water
immediately. Always cut them with a good
length of stem, particularly if they are to be
exhibited in large vases, or if they must be
kept for considerable time. Three to five

98 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

feet will not be too much for large flowers
with good stiff stems. The water in which
they are kept should be changed at least
twice each week, when a small piece should
be cut from the end of each stem. While in
storage the blooms should be looked over
and any decaying petals removed.

SELECTING THE BLOOMS FOR EXHIBITION

When ready to begin packing, the pro-
spective exhibitor must himself become a
judge. He would be unwise to take to the
exhibition anything but his best blooms, and
the choice of the best will need some careful
comparing and selecting. After the number
to be exhibited has been decided upon, look
the variety or varieties over carefully, select
the required number of blooms for a specified
exhibit, and place them where they can be
examined in a good light. If the number
should be twelve, compare them carefully
and select nine or ten of the best. Then
get three or four more of the best that
have been left and compare them with those
already selected, as sometimes a second
examination may change your opinion of a
bloom. It is only by the most rigid inspec-

GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 99

tion that the best can be selected in many
instances. After the required number has
been selected, put aside one or two of the
best remaining blooms for each exhibit, as
extra emergency blooms, to be used in case
of accident to any of the first choice. In
packing, always put in at least 10 per cent, of
the number to be exhibited in each class, as
emergency blooms.

A GUIDE TO THE SECTIONS

The following analysis of the sections will
enable any one to properly place any flower.
In the trade list, the varieties are usually
grouped under these section headings:

A. Anemone-flowered forms: rays in one
series: disk high and rounded

B. Flowers regular I. Anemone

BB. Flowers irregular 2. Japanese Anemone

AA. Double-flowered forms: rays in many
series: disk absent

B. Rays reflexed 3- Reflexed

BB. Rays incurved

C. Form regular 4. Incurved

CC. Form more or less irregular 5. Japanese Incurved

BBB. Rays of various shape; forms various . 6. Japanese

PACKING THE BLOOMS

When the blooms are ready to be taken to
the place of exhibition, and especially when
they must be sent to a considerable distance

IOO CHRYSANTHEMUMS

the question of packing them in order to have
them carry safely, and yet not occupy so
much space as to make the boxes or packages
unreasonably bulky and inconvenient for
handling, will require intelligent and careful
thought. Unless the packing is thus
thoroughly done the blooms will, in all
probability, be ruined for the purpose
intended, and all the labour that has been
bestowed upon the plants and blooms
for the entire season will have been
wasted.

There are two good methods of packing
the blooms, either of which, if properly carried
out, will get the flowers to their destination in
good condition. The method generally used
by florists who exhibit large quantities of
blooms is the most simple. For this method,
boxes made of some reasonably light but
strong material, twenty-four to thirty inches
wide, fifteen to eighteen inches deep, and
about six feet long, are best. These boxes
should first be lined with one thickness of
heavy, glazed wrapping paper, being careful
to have the pieces overlap each other to
exclude air. They should be held in place by
a few tacks. Then line with from three to

GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS IOI

six thicknesses of newspaper, according to
the condition of the weather and the distance
that they have to be transported. Have
ready some strips of soft wood about one
inch square for cutting into cleats. When
the required number of boxes has been pre-
pared, they should be taken to the storage
room, or some convenient place that is cool,
to be packed.

The blooms should be cut and placed in
water at least twenty-four hours previous to
the time that they are to be packed. They
should be wrapped in tissue paper before
being packed. For the incurving forms the
paper should be tied around the stems, just
below the blooms, and carefully drawn up-
ward over the top and fastened by tying.
For the decidedly reflex forms the paper may
be placed on top of the blooms and drawn
downward, being tied to the stem below the
flower. In either case the paper should only
be drawn sufficiently tight to hold the petals
firmly. Make some rolls of excelsior about
three to four inches in diameter and as long
as the width of the box. Place one of these
rolls far enough from one end of the box to
allow room for the largest blooms. Select

IO2 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

the largest blooms, and also those having the
longest stems, that it is desired to have staged,
for the ends of the boxes. As fast as the
paper is tied about the blooms, place them
in the box, allowing the neck of the flower to
rest on the roll of excelsior, and be sure that
the latter is sufficiently large to prevent the
blooms from touching the bottom of the box.
Place as many blooms side by side as will fill
the width of the box, then cut off two pieces,
about six inches long, of the strips of wood
that have been provided for cleats, and nail
them perpendicularly, one to each side of the
box, inside, near the bottom, and from twenty
to twenty-four inches from the end. Now
take a thin strip of wood — a lath that
will just fit across the box will do — and,
pressing it firmly down on the stems, nail it
to the two cleats that have been nailed to the
sides of the box. This is to prevent the
blooms and stems from shifting in the box.
If carefully done, two or even three rows of
blooms may be placed in the box before the
cross strips are nailed in, making less work
and also not interfering with packing the
second and third rows of blooms. After the
first row is properly placed, put in another

GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS IO3

roll of excelsior and another row of blooms,
continuing until about one fourth to one
third of the space in the box is filled. Then
begin at the other end of the box and repeat
the operation. This will allow the stems to
overlap each other at the middle of the box.
If blooms are to be exhibited in classes calling
for short stems, the blooms for such classes
may be packed in the vacant space near the
centre of the box.

In packing, it will be well to keep the
blooms of each variety together; also to
arrange them so that all that are to be
exhibited in each class can be unpacked in
succession. When they are to be unpacked
by some one other than the packer, the
blooms intended for the different classes
should be plainly marked and labelled accord-
ingly. If the blooms must remain in the
boxes for any considerable time, the foliage
of each row should be sprinkled lightly with
clean, cold water, or, what will be better, lay
sheets of newspaper that have been moistened
over each layer of stems, being careful at all
times to avoid getting any moisture on the
blooms.

By the other method of packing, deeper and

IO4 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

larger boxes may be used, and if carefully
done less danger of damage to the blooms
will be incurred. The boxes should be
lined with paper, as for the former method,
and strips of wood provided for cleats. One
cleat should be nailed to each side of the
box, about seven or eight inches from the end
and at the bottom. A strip of wood should
be nailed to these, at such a height from the
bottom that the blooms will be kept from
touching the bottom of the box when they
rest upon it. Wrap the blooms in tissue
paper as before, then place them in the box
with the neck resting on the cross strip, to
which they must be tied firmly with cotton
cord. Another strip may be placed at a
sufficient distance from the first to allow
another row of blooms to follow, and the
packing be continued as in the former de-
scribed method, the only difference being that
the strips take the place of the rolls of
excelsior, and the blooms are tied firmly in
position. With strips nailed across the box
to hold the stems in place, the boxes will
stand considerable rough usage with no
harm to the blooms. If the box is of suffi-
cient depth, a second and third tier of blooms

GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS IO5

may be packed above the first, as the cross
strips will support the entire weight

The principles to be observed in all meth-
ods of packing blooms are: making the
package as light as possible consistent with
strength, providing sufficient protection
from extremes of temperature, arranging the
blooms so that they cannot shift, and pre-
venting them from suffering from evapora-
tion without getting the blooms moistened.
See that covers are securely fastened, and in
case of using large boxes nail some cleats on
the outside near the ends for the carriers to
take hold of. For the smaller boxes a piece
of rope tied about them will answer the same
purpose, and will probably save the boxes
some rough usage. There is but one means of
transporting the blooms when they must be
sent over the rails, and that is by express.

Get receipts from the agent at the point
from which shipment is made, so that, in case
of necessity, you can get the boxes upon
arrival at the point where they must be
taken from the car. The regular express
delivery is not always as prompt as necessary
to get the blooms to the place of exhibition
in time for staging, and special delivery must

IO6 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

be provided., Aim to have your exhibits all
staged as soon as possible, and to do this no
time must be lost at any point of the work.

STAGING THE BLOOMS

Upon arrival at the place of exhibition
get in communication with the secretary and
the manager of the exhibition as soon as
possible. From the manager learn where the
different classes are to be staged, what vases
are to be used for your exhibits, and where a
supply of water for filling the vases may be
had. From the secretary secure the entry
cards for all of your exhibits. Get some
vases filled with water and, as fast as the
blooms can be unpacked, place them in the
vases. As soon as a vase is filled with the
required number of blooms place it in the
position designated by the manager, and, if
not already done, tie to one of the blooms a
label with the name of the variety written or
printed thereon. Get all of the blooms
unpacked and in water as soon as possible;
the arranging can be done after the unpack-
ing is finished. At the chrysanthemum
exhibitions held in Great Britain the dressing
of the blooms is an important part of the

GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS IOJ

staging operations. This means the remov-
ing of such petals, with the aid of a pair of
small tweezers, as tend to make the outline
of the blooms irregular, and of working petals
to fill vacancies, the idea being to make the
blooms as smooth and regular as possible.
This operation is, fortunately, not practised
in America.

When the blooms have all been placed in
water and labels attached, begin to arrange
them in each vase in such a manner that each
flower will show to the best advantage, as it
is important that all exhibits shall be thus
displayed. It is each exhibitor's duty not
only to himself but to the management to
do so. Much can be done in this way by
the exhibitors, particularly where collections
of different varieties are being staged.
While supports for blooms that can be seen
above the vase are not allowed, much can be
done to improve the appearance of a vase of
blooms when the receptacle happens to be
larger than is necessary for the number of
blooms that must be placed therein, as is
often the case, by putting a wad of paper
or some other material in the vase to hold
the stems in the desired position. The

IO8 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

displacement of a single bloom by a few
inches will often destroy the best effect of a
vase of flowers. When the exhibit consists
of a collection of three to twelve vases of
different varieties, those having the stiffest
and straightest stems should be placed in the
centre or at the back, if only one side of the
stand is open to the view of the visitors,
placing varieties having shorter and weaker
stems in front and at the ends.

The arrangement of the colours in rela-
tion to one another should also receive
intelligent consideration. White and yellow
will most likely be the predominating colours
and they will harmonize with each other and
with most other colours, if properly disposed.
In collections of a given number of varieties,
"one bloom of each variety," the blooms are
almost always exhibited with short stems
and placed singly in small vases, four rows
deep on the stand or table. In staging such
an exhibit the largest blooms having the
strongest stems should be placed at the back,
and the stems of the back row should be two
or three inches longer than the next one to
the front in each row, thus making a gradual
sloping effect to the collection. Here, also,

GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS IO9

good taste should be displayed in placing
the colours for the best effect.

In England there are a great many blooms
exhibited on what are known as "boards."
This method of exhibiting is but little used
in America. The arrangement is to provide
a small platform, 18 x 24 inches, made so
that the back is six inches high and the front
three inches. In this are bored twelve holes,
three from front to back, and four from end
to end, at equal distances. These holes are
fitted with tin tubes for holding water, which
have a spiral groove. Another tube without a
bottom and having a funnel-shaped top,
with a spiral ridge fitting into the groove of
the larger tube, is used. The blooms are
placed in the smaller tube and the stem is
wedged fast; then the small tube is placed in
position in the larger one, and, by means of
the spiral arrangement, can be placed at any
desired height. This method has never been
popular in this country, although the man-
agers of many exhibitions include one or two
small classes for it in their schedules.

The showing of blooms with long stems is
the popular method of exhibiting in America,
and when vases of from twenty-five to one

IIO CHRYSANTHEMUMS

hundred blooms of one colour are well ar-
ranged they produce an effect that is truly
magnificent. For arranging such exhibits,
the blooms must have stems from three to
five feet long. Vases of chrysanthemums,
with other material arranged for effect, are
a prominent feature of most exhibitions.
Here simple combinations of colour are
generally most pleasing. One variety of
chrysanthemum, with some well-coloured
autumn leaves, is often successfully used.
One of the prettiest arrangements that I have
ever seen was a vase of medium-sized flowers
of a' white variety interspersed with sprays
of Berberis Thunbergii. The bright scarlet
berries of the barberry in contrast with the
white chrysanthemums produced a beautiful
effect, and won the premier prize in keen
competition.

ETHICS OF EXHIBITING

Before going to the exhibition endeavour
to understand as thoroughly as possible
the principles upon which such affairs are
generally based, and, in particular, the one
in which you propose to take part. Also
study the specific rules and conditions under

GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS III

which the exhibition is held. If there is
anything that is not clear, or that has an
appearance of unfairness, try to get from
some official source an explanation of the
matter. If such explanation is not sat-
isfactory, either take note of it and seek for
further information or do not make your
proposed exhibits. Endeavour to have a
clean start, then conform to the rules your-
self, and, in fairness to yourself, see that your
competitors do the same in all matters of
importance. If the results are not as you
hoped and believed they would be, accept
them philosophically and manfully, unless
there should be some flagrantly erroneous
decision, under which circumstances a pro-
test entered in accordance with the rules and
in a gentlemanly manner is the privilege of
every exhibitor. Such instances are very
rare, however, and while decisions may some-
times appear wrong, they are almost always
attributable to honest difference of opinion.

CHAPTER VII
GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES

An important branch of horticultural industry — Selling your
plants — Growing for cut blooms — Packages for shipping —
Packing — Growing small bush plants — Best form of plants
for plant decorations — Stock plants — Decorating — Importing

THE chrysanthemum occupies an impor-
tant place in horticultural industry. Owing
to the fact that it gives but one crop of
flowers annually, and does not occupy the
house in which it is grown more than five or
six months of the year, it is not considered as
a permanent source of income.

It is difficult to get positive information as
to the amount of greenhouse space devoted
to the growing of plants for market. From
such information as is available, gathered by
the United States Department of Agriculture
at Washington, the amount paid to the retail
dealers in the Unites States for chrysanthe-
mum plants and flowers during the season of
1906 was not far below the million-dollar
mark. Unlike that of the rose, carnation,

112

PLATE XXII

As the rose is the queen of garden flowers, so the chrysanthemum is
queen of winter flowers, indoors

It is a delight to arrange chrysanthemums. Their beauty blends in in-
numerable ways with the foliage of all the most effective ferns, palms and
other house plants

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM IN INTERIOR DECORATION

PLATE XXIII

A BUSH ANEMONE

One of the most popular chrysanthemums for house culture is the large-
flowered anemone, grown as a bush. This is a white variety, Garza

GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES 113

and violet, the season for selling the chrys-
anthemum flowers is short, three months,
October, November, and December being
the only ones in which the flowers can be had
for sale. There is, however, another source
of income from the chrysanthemum, but it
is available to a very limited number of
florists. This is from the sales of young
plants. Thousands of these are sold each
year from the first of January to the first of
June. They are mostly new varieties, either
the production of American hybridizers or
importations from foreign sources.

The greater portion of these plants is
sold by the large commercial and importing
establishments to other large commercial
establishments that grow the plants for cut
flowers only. The small retail florists and
gardeners in charge of private places absorb
a considerable quantity, the balance being
sold by the large seed and plant dealers
through their mail trade.

PACKING YOUNG PLANTS

As a considerable quantity of the young
stock sold must be shipped during the months
of January, February, and March, the matter

114 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

of packing them to prevent freezing must be
properly understood, and the details at-
tended to carefully. Packages weighing
more than four pounds cannot be sent by
mail; consequently when plants in consid-
erable quantity are to be shipped they must
be forwarded by express. First see that the
soil in which the plants are growing is rea-
sonably moist; if not, it must be made so.
Pieces of paper, about four inches longer than
the entire length of the plant and ball of soil,
and wide enough to go twice around the plant,
should be provided. Turn the plants out of
the pots, which should not exceed two and
one half inches at this stage, lay them on
the piece of paper so that about two inches
of it extends beyond the plant and soil at
each end, roll the plant in the paper, and
fold the lower end to hold it in position,
leaving the top end open. Then line a good
wooden box, of the approximate size required
for the number of plants to be shipped, with a
thickness of heavy, glazed wrapping paper,
making sure that the pieces overlap each
other well. Next put in one or two thick-
nesses of heavy felt paper, or else the same
quantity of cotton batting. And after that

GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES

from five to ten thicknesses of newspaper,
according to the severity of the weather.
When several varieties are to be packed in one
box, some means must be used to enable the
person who unpacks them to distinguish the
varieties.

When from two to five plants of one
variety are sent, probably the best method
will be to wrap them in other paper with a
piece of cord about it, thus making them
into a loose bundle that can be packed flat.
When several of one variety are sent, the
kinds may be kept separate by making
divisions with heavy paper that will not tear
easily. At least one label must go with each
variety, and the number of plants of that
variety should be written on it. Layers of
excelsior may also be used to enable the
varieties to be distinguished, and in large
boxes a layer of this material on the bottom
and between each two layers of plants may
prove beneficial. Place the plants closely
and firmly together, with the ball of soil
against the end of the box. When the first
row has been placed, begin another, with the
plants in the same relative position, but
with the tops in the opposite direction, and

Il6 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

continue until a layer has been placed over the
entire bottom; then begin another layer,
placing the plants in the opposite direction to
that in which the first layer was placed.
Continue until the box is full or the plants
are all packed. Should there be any vacant
space it must be filled with excelsior or some
other material, as keeping the plants firmly
in the position in which they are placed is
the most important point to be observed
in packing. Boxes more than twelve inches
deep should not be used.

In warm weather a different method must
be employed. Packed as above advised,
the plants would almost surely heat if kept
in the box for more than twenty-four hours,
and would be spoiled. The plants should
have the paper wrapping about the ball of
soil only, and the box will need no lining. If
the time likely to be occupied in transit is not
more than three or four days, select a box
that is a few inches deeper than the extreme
height of the plants, stand the plants upright
as closely as possible, and, after three or four
rows have been placed, put a strip across the
box, pressing the plants together as tightly as
possible. Continue until the bottom of the

GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES 117

box is covered, then nail strips across the top,
leaving spaces from one to two inches be-
tween the strips. If this work is done prop-
erly, even if the box be turned upside down,
the plants will remain undisturbed. When
the plants must be a long time in transit,
the best plan for packing is to use a shallow
box having strong cleats nailed in each
corner a few inches higher than the plants.
Nail a strip to the top of the cleats at the
ends of the box, then pack the plants as
before, and nail strips from the two end
strips on top, leaving spaces between. This
will leave the plants open at the sides and
on top, allowing a free circulation of air
about them. It may be advisable to nail
a strip to the cleats at each side as a
protection.

SHIPPING BY MAIL

In preparing plants for shipment by mail
they must be protected from cold as thor-
oughly as when shipping by express, but
the boxes will necessarily be quite small, and
should be made of thin, light material. The
soil should be carefully washed from the
roots of the plants and the roots have a

1 1 8 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

small amount of damp moss wrapped about
them. Labels made from some tough paper
cut in strips, with a slit in one end through
which the other end is drawn, thus forming a
slip-noose, may be put around the plants.
A lining of cotton and waxed paper only
should be used inside of the box, which must
be covered with cotton and as many thick-
nesses of paper on the outside as the weather
conditions demand. Mark all packages
plainly with the name and address of
the consignee and in such manner that it
cannot be lost. Also mark them all
prominently with the legend, "Perishable
plants. Keep from heat and cold. Deliver
promptly."

PACKING PLANTS FOR EXPORT

"In packing for export," says Smith's
"Chrysanthemum Manual," "there are two
systems employed, one for the winter months,
when they are packed tight, the other for
summer, providing plenty of light and air
for the plants. When packed close, exces-
sive moisture is to be strongly guarded
against. Under such conditions the plants
are sure to rot if they remain packed more

GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES 119

than six days. There is sufficient moisture
in the plant itself to retain vitality for some
time, and whatever is used to fill up inter-
vening spaces must be perfectly dry. Moss,
excelsior, and cocoanut fibre are the best
materials for filling.

"Plants that are to be exported should be
put into a cold, airy house for a week or ten
days, and watered very sparingly, in order to
harden the wood. If packed too soft they
generally perish. Before placing in the
boxes remove most of the foliage, as it is
very apt to die and cause decay. The balls
of earth should be wrapped in dry moss and
tied securely. Place the plants in an upright
position on the bottom of the box, using a
cleat to each row; in this manner they are
held securely in the desired position. If the
weather is severe, protection against frost
will be necessary, and may be provided as
previously described. In hot weather the
same method of packing is employed, with
the exception that wet moss is used, wrapping
each ball with wax paper. Holes are bored
through the sides of the box to admit light
and air. The holes are generally covered
on the inside with wire screen to prevent

I2O CHRYSANTHEMUMS

mice damaging the plants while on ship-
board.

"Small foreign shipments are sometimes
made by removing the soil and placing the
plants in tin boxes, filling the intervening
spaces with dry cocoanut fibre or moss. It
is very important, when packed in this
manner, that all the leaves be removed except
those undeveloped at the top. If the plants
have been hardened there will be little loss.
It is easy to test a system of packing by pre-
paring a shipment, putting it aside, and open-
ing it after a period of time equivalent to that
required for transit to the proposed des-
tination, and noting the condition; or pot up
the plants and determine how many will

survive."

GROWING FOR CUT BLOOMS

Growing the plants for cut blooms, whether
for wholesale or retail trade, may be done
with reasonable assurance of fair profit if
good, economical business methods are used.
If the purpose is to grow for the wholesale
market, the grower should, if possible, locate
near some large city, where there is likely to
be a good and steady market for his product.

GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES 121

Growers that are located a long distance
from their markets are considerably handi-
capped, notwithstanding the many present-
day conveniences of telegraph, telephone,
and fast express trains. The blooms may
be shipped long distances with perfect safety,
but the grower cannot take advantage of
any increased demand or price as well as
if located within a short distance of his
market. Convenient and readily available
shipping facilities are also an important
consideration in growing for the wholesale
market. If the distance is so great that it is
not practicable to deliver the blooms by horse
and wagon, a good railroad express is a
necessity. While it may seldom be necessary
to do so, the grower should be so located
that he can deliver flowers to his customer
within two or three hours from the receipt
of an order.

When blooms are to be grown for the
wholesale market, the percentage of profit
will generally increase proportionately with
the number of blooms grown. When grown
in large quantities, large houses may be used,
and the labour and all other expenses will be
proportionately less than for a small estab-

122 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

lishment. The method of growing the
blooms for market will not differ materially
from that advised for growing exhibition
blooms, but the varieties should be carefully
selected, growing only those that the market
demands. Comparatively few of the odd or
mixed colours will sell. Good self-colours
of white, yellow, and pink are what are re-
quired. Good stems and foliage are also
demanded, and for convenience in growing,
varieties of dwarf-habit and short-jointed
growth should be selected. The blooms
should be firmly built and of good sub-
stance. Sorne of the most beautiful va-
rieties are rarely if ever seen in the large
florists' stores, for the reason that the blooms
lack sufficient substance to stand shipment
without damage. Such varieties can be used
profitably only by those who sell their prod-
uct directly to the consumer.

While it will seldom be found profitable to
give as much attention to the plants in the
matter of feeding as has been advised for
exhibition blooms, the plants must receive
practically the same treatment in all other
respects. Early and mid-season varieties
should be grown from crown buds generally,

GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES 123

but for late varieties the terminal bud will
be best. Except in the case of the very early
varieties, when there is a demand for the
blooms, and prices are high, they should not
be cut until they are fully matured, as they
will ship better and give more satisfaction
to the dealers and their customers.

Some time before any of the blooms are
ready to cut, an arrangement should be made
with one or more commission men or retail-
ers to take the entire crop of blooms, receiV7
ing a certain amount of them each day. If
the blooms are good, and you have enough to
be able to ship a considerable quantity each
day, you will have little difficulty in finding
customers for your crop. It is good policy
to keep in close touch with the commission
man during the shipping season, and always
send promptly whatever amount of blooms
has been agreed upon, or any that may be
required for special orders. Blooms should
always be cut and stood in water for at least
twenty-four hours before being shipped.
The best grades of blooms should be cut with
stems from two to four feet long.

When cut blooms are to be shipped to
market, convenient packages must be pro-

124 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

vided for carrying them. Some growers ship
them in boxes of any cheap kind that can be
obtained, that answer the purpose, and
do not have them returned. Where light
boxes of proper sizes can be obtained cheaply,
this method may prove economical; but
generally it will be necessary to provide boxes
that will last at least for one season's ship-
ments, and if reasonably well made they may
last for several seasons. Boxes eighteen inches
wide, twelve to fifteen inches high, and four
to five feet long will carry twenty-four first-
grade blooms, and from thirty to thirty-
six smaller ones. Smaller sizes of boxes may
be used for second and third grade blooms.
The boxes should be bound with light bands
of hoop iron, and light cleats fastened inside
at the corners and the centre will strengthen
the boxes greatly. The covers should be
fastened by hooks, or hinges and hasp, in
such a manner that they can be removed
entirely in packing and unpacking.

The general principles advised for packing
exhibition blooms will apply to packing for
market. It will not be necessary, however,
to use more than one or two thicknesses of
paper lining, unless the blooms will be

GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES 125

several hours in transit. Nor, except for
some fancy grades of blooms, will it be nec-
essary to wrap them in tissue paper; a sheet
of tissue or waxed paper laid over each row
of blooms before the next row is placed will
be sufficient. Pack as closely as possible
without crushing, and hold the stems firmly
in place by either putting one cleat across
them after the box is filled or wrapping a
good-sized roll of excelsior in paper and lay-
ing it across them in such a manner that the
cover will press it firmly on them when it is
fastened in place.

When the grower has the opportunity to
sell his flowers at retail he can generally
realize a larger percentage of profit than
when he sells at wholesale, but naturally the
number of blooms that can be disposed of
will be limited.

DWARF BUSH PLANTS FOR RETAIL TRADE

In the larger towns and cities there is
generally a market for a considerable quan-
tity of small bush plants grown in six- or
eight-inch pots. Dwarf-growing varieties
having stiff stems, and good foliage should be
chosen for this purpose, and the plants

126 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

should be propagated in April or early in
May. They should be stopped when one or
two inches high and kept stopped as directed
for specimen bush plants until about the
middle of July. With good care they should
make compact plants from twelve to eighteen
inches high, carrying from twenty to thirty
nice blooms. They will require but little if
any staking or tying. The pots may be
plunged in soil in a bed or bench, if desired,
to save watering; or the plants may be
planted in the soil from their first pots, and
be grown in the bench until after July I5th,
when they may be lifted and potted. This
method will produce larger plants than keep-
ing them in pots all summer, but will require
larger pots, and they may suffer from the
disturbance at the time that they must be
potted, unless given careful attention.
After potting they should be kept shaded
from bright sunshine for several days, the
atmosphere of the house being kept close
and moist.

Another form of plant that is very useful
to the commercial florist is one bearing from
six to twelve medium-sized blooms that can
be used in groups of foliage plants at wed-

GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES 127

dings, receptions, or any private or public
function. For this purpose the plants may
be propagated in May and stopped twice or
three times. Some of the tall-growing va-
rieties may well be used for this purpose.
Part of the plants may be grown without
disbudding, as the sprays of bloom will be
more graceful than so many larger blossoms,
although large blooms may also be used with
good effect. Many varieties of pompons
grown in pots, or in benches or even out-
doors, and lifted and potted, are useful for
this kind of work.

Florists located in small towns, where the
prices paid for large blooms cannot be
obtained, may produce sufficiently good
blooms for the majority of their customers
by growing their plants either in beds or
benches under glass, or even out of doors
— lifting and potting them after the buds
have set — and allowing from three to six
blooms to a plant.

Many growers prefer to grow their stock
plants out of doors, lifting and potting them
or planting them in boxes before cold
weather sets in. Where cut blooms are
grown in considerable quantities some rev-

128 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

enue may be obtained by selling stock plants.
As soon as the blooms are cut from a section
of bed or house, the stock of each of the
varieties desired to be grown the next year
should be lifted and potted, or planted in
boxes that are from four to five inches deep,
and stored. Surplus stock may be sold if
a market can be found for it.

MINIATURE CHRYSANTHEMUMS

Plants that are from ten to fifteen inches
high may be had with comparatively little
trouble, and a limited mumber sold at a
fair profit. Cuttings of the most dwarf-
growing varieties may be made from the
middle of July to the middle of August.
They must be put in a closed frame, kept as
cool as possible, and given only sufficient
ventilation to keep the air from becoming
stagnant and causing damping and fungus.
If a gentle bottom heat can be maintained
under the cuttings they will root more
quickly. Some fermenting stable manure
will provide such heat. As soon as rooted
they may be potted into small pots and kept
in the closed frame for a few days, after
which they may be gradually hardened by

PlAtE XXV *

The garden varieties are not only profuse bloomers but among the hardiest
of plants as well. They enrich the home indoors and out, after the rest of
the garden has fallen before the frosts

When we realize that cosmos, " Black-eyed Susan," the common field daisy
and the many cultivated forms are all of the same family, our respect for
the hardy chrysanthemum increases greatly

SOME GARDEN POSSIBILITIES

GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES 129

giving more air and exposing to a little
direct sunshine each day.

When they are ready to be repotted, they
may be put in three and one half- or four-
inch pots, placing the ball of roots about two
inches below the rim of the pot. If given
some liquid feeding, these plants will pro-
duce five- to six-inch blooms. They may
also be planted direct from the sand into
shallow pans, or in five- and six-inch pots, as
many plants as are desired. Good plants
may be made up in this manner from late
June cuttings, putting three to six plants in
six or eight-inch pots and stopping them once
or twice.

ITS GREAT DECORATIVE VALUE

It is safe to say, without detracting from
the beauty and value of any other species of
flower, that, during its season of bloom, there
is nothing that can compete with the chrys-
anthemum in rich, massive, gorgeous,
decorative value. It can be used anywhere
that flowers are required, and for any purpose;
and the florist or gardener who has decora-
tive work of any kind to do during the
chrysanthemum season is not doing himself

I3O CHRYSANTHEMUMS

and his patrons justice if he does not use it
freely, and, if the circumstances warrant,
lavishly. For the simple decoration of the
home, plants in six-inch pots grown to
single stem and bloom are excellent, placed
either singly or in groups of separate colours.
Small bush plants are also very pretty placed
here and there throughout the halls, library,
and reception rooms.

Cut blooms, either large or small according
to the size of the apartment, will give a
touch of beauty to any place. For bedrooms
small or medium-sized blooms should always
be used. Large, massive blooms may be
used with grand effect in large halls and
reception rooms. For the dinner table,
whether it is large or small, the blooms may
be arranged with infinite variety, and are al-
ways attractive if tastefully and effectively
arranged. For large tables large blooms may
be used, either in tall vases, bringing the
blooms above the line of vision, or in low
receptacles of various kinds that will allow a
flat, but nevertheless beautiful, arrange-
ment; or a combination of the two may be
used effectively. For small tables the smaller
blooms are more appropriate; in fact, the

GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES

large blooms appear incongruous on small
tables. The many beautiful varieties of pom-
pons are very desirable for this latter purpose.
It is, however, in decorating large dwell-
ings and churches for weddings, receptions,
and other important social functions, and
halls and such places of public assembly, that
the chrysanthemum is seen in all its glory.
Here the plants can be used among great
groups of palms and other foliage plants,
and large vases of long-stemmed blooms may
be displayed with magnificent effect. In
addition they may be tied in bunches and
festoons over altar and chancel rail, mirrors,
doorways, and windows. In fact, they may
be used anywhere that flowers can be placed
in order to transform the interior into
a bower of beauty. When employed in
such manner the effect will in most cases
leave a lasting impression on the minds of
the spectators, and will in all probability
strengthen their love for the beautiful as
embodied in the form of flowers and plants.

IMPORTING

Many of the best varieties in cultivation
at the present time have been imported

132 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

from other countries, England, France,
and Australia being the sources of practi-
cally the entire supply. If it is desired
to make importations, the prospective
importer must get in communication with
dealers or hybridizers in either country and
make such negotiations as will secure the
desired varieties. The plants are generally
dried and weakened by the time occupied in
transit, and great care will have to be given
them in order to save the little life that is
left. They should be unpacked and placed
in warm water immediately and allowed to
remain there for an hour or more, until the
roots have become freshened, when they may
be potted, using the smallest pots the roots
can be gotten into, and soil composed of one
third each of sand, fresh loam, and leaf
mould, to which should be added a good
sprinkling of charcoal, broken fine. The
pots should then be placed in a closed case,
plunged in sand, and a gentle bottom heat
maintained under them until they have
started to grow nicely. While the case
should be kept reasonably close, sufficient
ventilation must be given to prevent the
development of fungi. Very little water

GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES 133

should be given until the plants have started
growth and roots, and even then great care
must be used in applying it. The plants
must be carefully nursed, and constantly
watched, until the growth is sufficiently
strong to remove as cuttings. Similar treat-
ment may be accorded to desirable varie-
ties that make weak growth.

CHAPTER VIII
PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES

Uncertainty of results — Cross-fertilization — Sports, or bud
variations

WITH chrysanthemums, as with every other
cultivated plant, the art of creating new, dif-
ferent forms and varieties is rich in fascina-
tion and interest. Not only may the results
bring us great rewards both aesthetically
and financially, but the actual processess
of plant breeding carry us into the deep and
marvellous realms of Nature's mysteries.
My own experience in this line of work hav-
ing been limited, I am fortunate in being
able to present upon this subject the views
and the conclusions, after years of practice,
of Mr. Elmer D. Smith, one of the most
prominent and successful of all American
raisers and breeders of chrysanthemums.

Before entering upon the details of this
subject let us consider some of the natural
conditions which have more or less influence

134

PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES 135

upon our results. Dame Nature says the
chrysanthemum shall be single, and reproduce
itself from seed, so in producing these marvel-
lous flowers with almost countless petals we
are working in direct opposition to her laws.
In some of our improved varieties we are
prevented from making further improve-
ments owing to the pistils or styles being
abortive; and in others the staminate florets
provide little or no pollen.

In cross-fertilization, the operator's desire
is to improve the chief characteristics, such
as colour, size, form, and fullness. It is
beyond all human power to obtain exact
results in uniting or mixing the colours of
petals. Pollen of a white flower applied to a
red may give red, white, or any intermediate
shade representing the many varieties of
pink. The union of red and yellow gives
similar results, producing red, yellow, and all
the intermediate shades of brown and tan.
We have more assurance when varieties of
the same colours are crossed. Improve-
ments in colour can only be attained by
bearing in mind the laws of nature in making
these unions. The chrysanthemum has a
great tendency to revert to its antecedents.

136 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

Hence it is that we get many strangers when
two of the same colour are crossed. The
variety, Mrs. J. J. Glessner, yellow, came
from Edward Hatch and Mrs. Jerome
Jones, both white or nearly so. This seed-
ling partook of the parentage of Edward
Hatch, which was Gloriosum, yellow, and
Ada Spaulding, pink. In this connection I
would suggest to my reader, and urge the
study of, a little book entitled "Mendelism,"
by Punnett.

Form, size, and fullness are improved only
by careful consideration of these qualifica-
tions in varieties at our disposal. We are
more certain of advancement in the style of
growth, securing those which are dwarf and
sturdy, by confining our operations to such as
possess these qualities. Large and small
foliage can be produced by using those
having these peculiarities. What governs
the potency of the pistillate and staminate
parents we cannot determine. We are deal-
ing with minute affairs. The stigma may
scarcely have reached maturity when the
pollen is applied, or the pollen may have
passed its prime with the stigma at the
height of development. These varied con-

PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES 137

ditions exert some influence in establishing
the character of the seedling.

In selecting varieties for this work the two
classes for consideration are those for exhibi-
tion and for commercial use. In the former,
size is the most important factor, if the other
qualifications are up to the average. The
commercial grower requires staple colours,
and the purer the colour the better. Size,
form, fullness, and style of growth are
important and should be taken into con-
sideration.

SEED PLANTS

Our experience leads us to believe that
single stem plants in four-inch pots, grown
naturally without an abundance of nourish-
ment, are best suited for this purpose. They
produce fewer ray florets; hence pollen is
easier to gather. The styles in flowers thus
treated seem to be in better condition, or at
least more normal, and produce seed more
freely. We have arrived at these deductions
by endeavouring to procure seed from plants
grown for exhibition, and in nearly every
case our efforts have been fruitless. Plants
intended for seed raising should be staged in

CHRYSANTHEMUMS

a dry, light house, and excessive moisture
at the roots or in the atmosphere should
be avoided.

FERTILIZING OR POLLENIZING

The operation begins when the flowers are
half open by cutting the petals off close to

&

Diagramatic and enlarged ray and disc florets illustrating the
parts involved in fertilization. A — Style or stalk of pistil: B —
Stigma or receiving surface of pistil; C — Anther or pollen-distrib-
uting sac of stamen; D — Ovary containing E — Ovule or seed;
F — Filament or stalk of stamen.

the base with a pair of scissors, until the
styles are exposed. In the accompanying
diagram, which represents enlarged ray and

PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES 139

disc florets, I is the petal which fur-
nishes the colour. This is provided with
a style or pistil, and when in condition,
or fully expanded, is in proper condition to
receive the pollen which is applied to the
upper surface ($), known as the stigma.
The disc floret (2) also has a style, but is
provided with stamens (C), which furnish
the pollen. These should be removed from
the seed plant with the points of the scissors,
to prevent self-fertilization. After the
flower head has been trimmed, select the
desired flower for pollen. Push aside the
ray florets or petals until the disc florets are
in view. Collect the dust-like pollen on a
camel's hair pencil or toothpick and apply
to the stigmas of the flowers previously pre-
pared. This completes the operation. How
fertilization takes place is fully described
by Prof. Bentley in his "Manual of Botany":
"When the pollen falls upon the stigma its
intine protudes through one or more pores
of the extine in the form of a delicate tube
which penetrates through the cells of the
stigma, by the viscid secretions of which it is
nourished. These pollen tubes continue to
elongate by growth and pass down the con-

140 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

ducting tissue of the canal of the style, and thus
reach the ovary, where the seed is formed."

If a toothpick is employed never use it
for more than one kind of pollen. By allow-
ing the camel's hair pencil to stand in an
open-mouthed vial of alcohol for a few
moments after using, it may, when dry, be
used upon another variety without danger
of the former operation affecting the present
one. Pollenizing should be done on bright,
sunny days, as far as possible. In wet
weather a dry, warm house can be utilized,
and the work continued each day, provided
sufficient pollen is at hand. On bright days
pollen is generally very abundant, and may
be collected, stored in vials, and labelled ready
for use. If kept perfectly dry, this pollen
will retain its vitality throughout the chrys-
anthemum season. After fertilization give
the plants only sufficient water to keep them
from wilting. Always keep a record of the
work, showing the parents of the seedlings.
It will afford pleasure to know how a mer-
itorious variety was produced, and may
suggest possibilities along other lines.

Seeds ripen in five or six weeks. Plants
fertilized early in the season give the greatest

PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES 14!

number of seeds, due, doubtless, to more
favourable weather at that time. Do not
anticipate superabundance of seed. The
crosses which give but few seeds generally
produce the best seedlings. Hand-pollen-
ized seeds are of more value than those
naturally pollenized by the wind or insects.
It at least seems rational to expect more
from seed secured by the union of our best
kinds than from that produced by the wind
without intent, or the bee, whose only object
is to secure her daily sustenance. If this be
true, the results of our work depend upon
the degree of intelligence employed in the
selection of parents and the thoroughness
with which the accomplishment of every
detail is attended.

SEEDLINGS

The seeds should be sown as soon as they
are ripe, using pots, pans, or shallow boxes.
They should be covered lightly and kept in
a temperature of about 60 degrees until they
have germinated. If kept in so high a
temperature the seedlings are quite likely to
damp off; at the first indication of such a
condition move them to a more airy place.

142 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

As soon as they have made their second pair
of characteristic leaves, prick them off into
shallow boxes, about an inch apart. When
they show signs of crowding they should be
potted separately and repotted as often as
necessary or planted into the bench, the same
as in the case of ordinary plants that have
been grown from cuttings. They will flower
the first year from seed, and there is nothing
more interesting than to look over a large
lot of seedlings and note the diversity of
form and colour. After the planted seedlings
are established, nip out the tops and allow
two breaks to come up and flower, and, as
far as possible, select a crown or early bud
on one of these, and terminal or late bud on
the other; thus we gain some knowledge at
the very first year as to which bud produces
the better flower. Those that are considered
desirable maybe saved and given further trial.

SPORTS

The word "sport" in connection with
chrysanthemums refers to varieties that
originate from bud varieties. (By " bud
varieties" is meant that one or more buds,
generally only one, of a certain variety may

PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES 143

produce a flower of a different colour, as a bud
of a white variety producing a pink or yellow
flower.) Occasionally a variety will sport
the first or second year after its origin from
seed, but generally it does not take place
until several years have elapsed, and then
often simultaneously in remote localities.
This has occurred in this country, the most
marked case being that of Mrs. Jerome
Jones sporting to yellow.

It need not surprise any one cultivating
chrysanthemums to notice a plant producing
flowers of two distinct colours. Sometimes
the sport flowers will be one half the original
colour (the flower being of two colours),
and again possibly another bloom will be
of the new colour entire. It has been
reported that plants sometimes sport in
form — that is, give a flower of entirely
different form from that originally possessed,
such as an incurved variety sporting to a
reflexed form. Such cases are, at least, few
and far between. In fact, we are inclined
to disbelieve that such changes have really
taken place. Cultural conditions often
change the form of flowers materially, and
also the kind of bud selected; doubtless

144 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

some of the cases reported were due
simply to these causes.

To perpetuate the new colour of the plant
that has sported, the method generally
followed is to cut out the leaf on the flower-
ing wood with a heel or portion of the stem,
and place these under a bell-glass or closed
frame to induce them to make roots, after
which they send forth new growth. These
are planted the next season, and if any pos-
sess the original colour they are discarded
and those of the new colour saved. Gen-
erally in the course of two or three seasons
it is safe to consider the new variety estab-
lished and the colour, as it is termed, fixed.

HOW SEEDLINGS ARE JUDGED

The Chrysanthemum Society of America
each year appoints committees, composed
of three expert judges of chrysanthemums,
to meet in the more important, prominent
cities of the country, on appointed dates,
notice of such meetings being given in all
the weekly floricultural publications, to pass
judgment upon any seedlings, sports, or new
importations that may be brought before
them. The decisions of these committees

PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES 145

are also published, and the results are placed
on record with the secretary of the organiza-
tion. The society has adopted scales of
points for the guidance of these committees
in determining the value of the different
classes of blooms. The official scales of the
C.S.A. are as follows:

For commercial purposes. Points

Colour 20

Form 15

Fullness 10

Stem 15

Foliage 15

Substance 15

Size IO

Total . . 100

For exhibition purposes. Points

Colour 10

Stem 5

Foliage 5

Fullness 15

Form IS

Depth IS

Size 35

Total . . 100

CHAPTER IX

INSECTS, DISEASES, AND REMEDIES

Aphides — Red Spider — Grasshoppers — Caterpillars — Leaf-
spot — Mildew — Rust

WHILE the chrysanthemum is subject to
the depredations of several species of insects
and fungi, fortunately there is none that
may not be overcome without serious
injury to the plants if the grower will give
vigilant attention to the matter, and use
such preventive and destructive measures
as are available.

The most common, pernicious, and persis-
tent insect enemy is the green aphis. The
black aphis is also quite common, but is
easily destroyed by the means recommended
for the green aphis. This latter species
works its way into the folds of the young
leaves as they are developing, and is
with difficulty reached with either liquids
or fumes, without injury to the young
growth. The grower must be constantly
146

INSECTS, DISEASES, AND REMEDIES 147

on the watch for this insect, and must
be persistent in using means to destroy it,
as it will soon do serious harm to the young
growth. Fumigating with tobacco stems
has until recently been the orthodox remedy,
and is still used to considerable extent.
The stems must be kept moist while being
burned to prevent them from being con-
sumed too rapidly; otherwise the plants are
likely to be damaged. The fumigating is
better for being done in the evening and, if
possible, when the weather is cool. Just
how heavy the fumigation should be can
be determined only by experience; but the
beginner may soon learn how much to apply
by giving the plants a fumigation three
nights in succession, making the smoke
quite thin, so that objects can be seen across
the house the first time, increasing the
amount the second night, and, if the aphis
is not destroyed, increasing still more the
third evening.

Of recent years there have been placed on
the market by different manufacturers
various preparations of nicotine, which are
more convenient and pleasant to use, al-
though probably somewhat more expensive.

148 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

Directions for its use accompanies each of
them. Dusting the points of the plants,
while wet, with tobacco dust is an effective
remedy. This also should be applied at
night or during cloudy days, and should be
washed off with the hose and spray after a
few hours. Various liquid insecticides may
be used by spraying the plants with them.
Special efforts should be made to eradicate
this insect entirely at the time that the
buds are forming, as if any of them are
on the plants then they will work un-
der the scales of the buds and eventually
into the blooms, which will surely be
ruined.

Red spider is an enemy for the existence
of which on chrysanthemum plants there
can be no excuse, provided a supply of water
is available and the means to apply it to the
under side of the leaves with reasonable
force. This is the best remedy of all for
this insect, and, as the chrysanthemum
makes its growth at a season of the year
when water can be used freely, should prove
an effective remedy. As with the aphis,
pains should be taken to have the plants
absolutely free from spider before the buds

INSECTS, DISEASES, AND REMEDIES 149

begin to open, as then syringing must be
discontinued, and if any of the insects are
lurking on the plants they will soon spread
to the blooms, with disastrous results. In
case the plants should become badly in-
fested with spider, or if there is any appear-
ance of its existence on the plants just before
the buds begin to open, they should be
thoroughly sprayed on both sides of the
leaves with a solution of whale-oil soap.
One pound of soap should be dissolved in
one or two gallons of boiling water. When
thoroughly dissolved, dilute to make ten
gallons of solution. Ivory soap may be used
in the same manner if preferable, or any of
the manufactured insecticides that are on
the market employed according to direc-
tions. The spraying must be thoroughly done.

THRIPS, GRASSHOPPERS, AND CATERPILLARS

Thrips are sometimes quite troublesome,
but the fumigations for aphides and the
syringings for red spider will generally de-
stroy them. Grasshoppers frequently find
their way into the houses in considerable
numbers, and do serious damage by eating
off the points of the growing shoots. Catch-

I5O CHRYSANTHEMUMS

ing and destroying them is the only remedy.
Several species of butterflies and moths lay
eggs on the leaves of the chrysanthemum,
and the young caterpillars do considerable
damage to the foliage. They rarely become
serious, however, and picking them off by
hand will generally be sufficient. Should
they become serious, the leaves may be
sprayed with arsenate of lead in solution at
the rate of one ounce to three gallons of water.

THE TARNISHED PLANT BUG

Where chrysanthemums are grown out of
doors this insect becomes a serious pest.
Probably the first indication of its presence
will be the wilting of the young leaves at the
growing tips of the shoots. Upon examina-
tion they will appear to be covered with
small, brownish spots, and the stems will
show the same appearance. If careful
search is made a small, flat bug of greenish
or brownish-yellow colour will be seen dodg-
ing about the plants in an effort to keep out
of sight. The adult is brownish-yellow, and
will probably fly away if disturbed. The
young bugs are greenish-yellow, and are
unable to fly. They are difficult to catch,

INSECTS, DISEASES, AND REMEDIES

however, as they jump about very quickly.
They injure the plants by puncturing the
young leaves and stems and sucking the
juices, the spots being caused by this action.
Often the entire point of the shoot will
be checked, causing it to go blind. A
thorough spraying with whale-oil soap solu-
tion,- of the strength recommended for red
spider, will destroy the young bugs and tend
to drive away the old ones. If the plants
are in a compact mass, or near some build-
ing, they may be covered with mosquito net-
ting to prevent the bugs from getting at them.

CHRYSANTHEMUM BEE-FLY

What is known as the chrysanthemum
bee-fly makes its appearance in the autumn
about the time that the flowers of the chrys-
anthemums are fully open, and feeds from
the pollen of the flowers. This has a very
decided resemblance to the common black
honey bee, hence its name. It does no harm
beyond soiling a few of the petals.

FUNGOUS DISEASES

Leaf-spot is a disease that attacks the
older foliage of the plants and causes serious

152 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

injury when allowed to spread. This disease
is generally induced by unhealthy con-
ditions surrounding the plants, or some
constitutional weakness of the plants them-
selves. If the plants are kept too wet during
cold, cloudy weather, and at night, or if
weakened by growing in a close atmosphere
without sufficient ventilation, the disease is
likely to attack them. Strong-growing
varieties that are given proper treatment
are rarely attacked. Hence preventive
measures are the most effective means of
combating the disease. Various fungi-
cides have been advocated by different
growers as remedies for this, as well as for
the rust, each grower, perhaps, recommending
a different remedy, just as many cures are
offered for the same human ill. I am fully
convinced that good cultural methods, com-
bined with rigid selection of stock for prop-
agating purposes, are the most effective
means of keeping plants of any kind in good
health; just as healthy breeding, good sani-
tary and hygienic conditions, combined with
intelligent diet and exercise, are the best
means of preventing disease of the human
race.

INSECTS, DISEASES, AND REMEDIES 153

That scientific research tends to confirm
the truth of this conclusion is evinced by
extracts from a paper read before the mem-
bers of the Chrysanthemum Society of
America at the convention held in New York
City, November n, 1903, by Professor
George E. Stone, of the Hatch Experiment
Station, Massachusetts. "Most growers," he
says, " are familiar with the chrysanthemum
rust, although I have no doubt that some of
you have had no personal experience with
it. The rust occurs as small blisters, usually
on the under side of the leaves. These
blisters eventually break open, exposing a
brownish, powdery mass. This powdery
substance constitutes the uredospores, which
are the only spores known to be produced by
this fungus in this country. The first
appearance of the chrysanthemum rust in
America, so far as is known, occurred in
Massachusetts during the fall of 1896. . . .
The first two or three years of the outbreak
in this country proved the worst, and at
present little is heard of it in the East,
especially from our largest and most efficient
growers. Its disappearance appears to be
due to two causes — namely, the discovery

154 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

and application of cultural methods which
render infection less common, and the limit-
ation of the fungus to a single stage (uredo)
of existence. . . . That cultural meth-
ods have had a great deal to do with the
disappearance of the rust is evident from the
fact that our most skilful growers of chrys-
anthemums have never had it but one or two
years, and some not at all; while less skilful
and less painstaking growers have been more
or less subject to it every year. From the
first, we have never apprehended any very
serious trouble from the rust, because we
believed that some cultural methods would
be devised that would render it less trouble-
some. . . . Most gardeners agree that
weak stock is the most susceptible to rust;
and if weak, infected plants are allowed
to remain in close proximity to strong,
healthy ones, the latter will subsequently
become infected. The method of preventing
rust consists of hand-picking the infected
leaves, selecting clean, strong stock, dis-
carding susceptible varieties, and inside
culture. If these suggestions are carried
out, the rust can be practically eliminated.
In regard to inside culture during the sum-

INSECTS, DISEASES, AND REMEDIES 155

mer, we find that many excellent growers lay
much stress on this practice, and from our
observation we consider it very essential in
order to obtain plants free from rust. The
reason that inside culture results in less
infection is due to the avoidance of mists and
dews on the foliage, thus furnishing less
favourable opportunity for rust spores to
germinate and cause infection. Care should
also be taken to keep all unnecessary water
off the foliage in cultivation in the green-
house. Most growers are unanimous in
considering the chrysanthemum rust of
little consequence and others look upon it as
a thing of the past. There are a few, how-
ever, who have not succeeded in subduing
it and who still think it a serious disease.
Some have resorted to spraying, with results
that amount to little more than suppression.
It appears from our own observations. as-well
as from those obtained from the most suc-
cessful growers of this plant, that the proper
remedy lies in the judicious selection of
healthy, rust-free stock, and inside cul-
tivation. Give the plants plenty of air and
keep the soil in good physical condition. If,
however, any of the leaves become infected,

156 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

they should be removed and burned immedi-
ately, and if a plant becomes badly infected
it should be burned. In whatever manner
the plants are cultivated, whether indoors or
outdoors, endeavour to keep the dew and
moisture off the foliage as much as possible."
This last admonition by Professor Stone,
while being excellent advice upon the subject
in question, needs to be qualified. It is, in
fact, incompatible with the instructions
given for the prevention and eradication of
insects, unless qualified. Water maybe used
freely upon the foliage of the plants, provided
that the soil is not kept saturated at any
time and the foliage is perfectly dry before
sunset each day, and during cloudy and wet
weather. The soil should also be kept
reasonably dry during periods of cold, cloudy,
and rainy weather. If these conditions are
maintained, water may be used liberally on
the foliage without danger of inducing fun-
gous diseases, for in our climate a liberal use
of water on the foliage is absolutely necessary
to the development of good chrysanthemums.
With a thorough understanding of the mat-
ter, the advice of Professor Stone is excellent,
and entirely consistent with good practice.

INSECTS, DISEASES, AND REMEDIES 157

There is another fungous disease that
causes the lower leaves of the plants to
die and eventually the entire plant to
dwindle and perish. This is called stem-
rot, from the fact that the fungus attacks
the stem and destroys the tissues or ducts,
thus preventing the water from ascending
and carrying the necessary nourishment
for the proper development of the plant.
This disease is comparatively rare. The
fungus apparently enters the plants from
the soil. The only remedy is the de-
struction of affected plants and as this,
like the other diseases noted, seldom attacks
strong-growing, healthy plants, the same
management applies.

Powdery mildew of the chrysanthemum is
the most common of all fungous diseases, and
will attack healthy plants in greater or less
degree, if conditions congenial to its develop-
ment are allowed to exist. Sudden changes
of temperature, combined with excessive
moisture either in the soil or atmosphere, will,
in all probability, induce an attack. Here
again cultural care is the most effective
preventive. While the temperature of the
chrysanthemum house may go as low as 40

158 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

degrees at night or even lower when the
flowers are opening, the atmosphere must be
dry and the temperature lowered gradually
and there must be sufficient artificial heat
combined with ventilation to keep a reason-
ably free circulation of air through the house.
Sulphur dusted through the house during
the heat of the day, or a mixture of lime and
sulphur in the form of paste spread on the
heating pipes and sufficient heat applied to
disperse the fumes, will aid in preventing and
controlling the disease. If badly affected,
the plants may be sprayed with a solution of
liver of sulphur, one ounce to two gallons of
water, care being taken that none of the
solution comes in contact with opening
flowers. The only other liquid fungicide
that can be used without discolouring the
foliage is the ammoniacal copper carbonate
solution. This is prepared as follows, the
formula being that given in Lodeman's "The
Spraying of Plants":

Copper carbonate 3 02.

Ammonia (22° Beaum6) I qt

Agitate until the copper is completely dissolved

Use in proportion of one part to one hun-
dred parts water. Bordeaux mixture may

PLATE XXVIII

HARDY ANEMONES

When is the end of the season for chrysanthemums?
taken October 25, after several hard frosts.

This photograph was

,-,

INSECTS, DISEASES, AND REMEDIES 159

be used early in the season, but it discolours
the foliage badly.

A writer in the Journal of Horticulture
(Eng.) gives the following: "If mildew
attacks chrysanthemums — and August is
the great month for it to appear — prompt
measures must be taken. For this pur-
pose, half a pound each of sulphur, soft soap,
soot, and lime should be boiled for half an
hour in a gallon of water, and, while it is still
warm, half a pint of paraffin should be stirred
into it. When cold, the liquid should be
drawn off clear and bottled. It will keep
indefinitely. When wanted for use, a
quarter of a pint should be diluted with a
gallon of water and the solution applied to
the leaves — the under side especially — by
means of a syringe or knapsack sprayer. It
is a mistake to wait for an outbreak of dis-
ease before using the solution. Its value as
a preventive is far greater than as a remedy,
and many experienced growers apply it
once a fortnight from the beginning of July
onward. Mr. Wells says that if it is used as
a preventive for fungus, mildew will not
make its appearance at all. It will also
keep at a distance a fly which attacks chrys-

l6o CHRYSANTHEMUMS

anthemums, depositing its eggs in the
leaves, which the maggots afterward dis-
figure and destroy by boring up and down
inside."

CHAPTER X

GROWING IN THE SOUTH

Chrysanthemums outdoors in New Orleans — Cultural hints
month by month

"As SOON as the young plants are well
rooted in small pots," says C. W. Eichling in
the New Orleans Picayune, "they should be
shifted into three-inch pots, using a rich soil
to induce a healthy growth and prepare them
for the open ground, into which they should
be planted about the end of April. The
cuttings are made from January to the end
of March, according to the early and late
blooming varieties. Some that are wanted
for Christmas flowers may be propagated
in the 'open ground under slatted shed or
canvas in July and August. In New Orleans
our most valuable crop is taken off on All
Saints' Day, November 1st. The beds in
which the chrysanthemums are to be grown
should be made of rich soil, high, and well
drained. A heavy loam, with a liberal mix-

161

l62 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

ture of cow manure and bone meal, suits
them better than light, sandy soil. The
plants are set out in beds, in rows one foot
apart, and six inches between the plants.
As we do not desire more than two flowers
per plant, this distance will allow the flowers
to attain a diameter of six inches without
rubbing each other. We allow three feet
between the beds, to permit free passage
and easy cultivation. After planting, give a
good watering. As the plants are set out
from pots they will need no shading. When
the plants are about one foot high we pinch
the tops off the strongest growing ones,which
causes them to make several shoots, of which
we allow the strongest two to grow. The
selection of these shoots must be made as
soon as they are an inch or two long, to avoid
a waste of growth in unnecessary shoots.
The weaker plants are never topped, develop-
ing but one flower apiece. The question
whether it pays to grow one large flower per
plant, or three or more smaller ones, depends
largely on the demand in different localities.
The only insect enemy that the chrysan-
themum has is the green and black aphis,
or fly, which can be kept down by a

GROWING IN THE SOUTH 163

liberal application of tobacco stems and
dust.

" It is now time to stake and tie the plants
as they grow, in order to protect them from
injury by the wind and to keep the branches
straight. We drive a stake at each end of
a row and stretch three rows of No. 16 wire,
the first about a foot from the ground, the
second about two feet, and a third as near
the flower as possible, to keep the stem from
breaking. From the time the plants are set
out until the flowers are cut the chrysanthe-
mums must not be allowed to get dry, and
as long as drainage is perfect there is little
danger of over-watering, except during the
last stages of perfecting the flowers, when
water should be given rather sparingly. If
the soil was well prepared and enriched be-
fore planting, additional fertilizing or feeding
will be unnecessary until the buds are formed
and selected. In this region crown buds
rarely bring perfect flowers, and should not
be selected. The terminal buds perfect the
best flowers. It is supposed that by this
time the plants, which are gross feeders,
have exhausted the plant food contained in
the soil, and in order to obtain as large a

164 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

flower as possible we give the plants twice
a week a watering with cow manure of about
the concentration of weak tea. Toward
the end of September the early varieties will
show colour. From this time on, feeding
must be stopped, only clear water being
given, and the quantity gradually reduced
until the flower is perfected. The opening
petals are very delicate and waxy; all contact
between blooms must be avoided. For this
purpose we build a shed over them and cover
it with canvas; or, still better, with glass, to
keep the rain and dew from falling on them
and to protect them from the hot sun's rays,
which easily burn them."

CHAPTER XI

THE POMPON CHRYSANTHEMUM

Experience of an amateur with the old-fashioned type — Hardiness
of pompons — Their decorative value and ease of culture

THE following experience of an amateur
covers so thoroughly the culture of the
garden's last dependable flower of the season
that it is made a chapter by itself.

" The'pompon chrysanthemum rewards the
grower better than most flowers, as it is that
rare thing, a hardy autumn plant, keeping
in bloom for a month after almost everything
else has gone, and able with its masses
of blossoms to maintain a gay looking
garden.

"Whenever I see the strange shapes of the
odd chrysanthemums on which the profes-
sionals so pride themselves, and whenever I
note how quickly those queer flowers fade, I
think with satisfaction of my own unpre-
tentious but prolific plantation. Not one
flower to a stem, but often more than fifty;
165

1 66 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

not tender to frost, but hardy; not soon fad-
ing in the house, but usually keeping more
than a fortnight; regular in shape, beautiful
in colour, requiring no skill to grow, no
investment, and no great care.

"lam ready to admit that there is beauty
in many of the large-flowering chrysanthe-
mums, but when I think of the care needed
in growing them, as well as in keeping them
after they are cut, and consider how
little time the average home-gardener and
house-keeper can give to both these, I
make my decision in favor of the less
showy but more cheaply and more easily
grown kinds.

THE INCREASE OF SEVEN YEARS

"I started seven years ago with perhaps a
dozen small plants of two varieties, red and
yellow. The yellow kind has done better
than the red, and it now makes a row
about twenty-two feet long, while the red
ones fill only sixteen feet. Yet that is doing
very well, considering three complete trans-
plantings, the many roots given away, and
the fact that not until recently have the
plants had really good earth. Having been

THE POMPON CHRYSANTHEMUM 167

told that they would 'live anywhere,' and
being an ignorant rather than a careless
cultivator, I did not realize, until I tried it,
the difference between living upon scant
rations and flourishing upon plenty. There
are now so many new plants springing from
the roots that in another year I shall be able
to nearly double each row.

"Though they are an old-fashioned plant,
and somewhat neglected just now, they are
offered by seedsmen and nurserymen, who
carry (according to their catalogues), some
as few as four, one as many as forty-
seven, named varieties, and one offers the
seed.

"They have the same shaped characteristic
leaves as the show flowers, but are smaller,
and bear their own small, symmetrical, more
or less double flowers, in great profusion.
The blossoms vary in size with the varieties,
my small reds being seldom more than an
inch across, while the yellows are two inches ;
and I have seen other varieties whose flowers
were as much as two and a half inches in
diameter. It is possible to produce larger
flowers by disbudding and growing only a
few to a stem, but this requires more time

1 68 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

and trouble than I have been able to give
to them.

POMPONS AS A SCREEN

"I use these hardy chrysanthemums to
screen my piazza lattice, which is never truly
handsome, and which, as the summer ad-
vances, they cover to perfection, even to the
height of four and a half feet. As they grow
they require support, for, although the red
ones are very stiff, they bend in wind or rain;
the yellows droop naturally. We support
them with light bamboos tied across the rows;
the uncompromising reds reveal their support,
but the yellows completely cover theirs.

"As a low screen they are therefore
perfect, and give besides, a good background
for the flowers which stand in front of them.
I know of no plant which I would exchange
for them for this purpose.

FLOWERS IN A FROST-DESOLATED
LANDSCAPE

"The pompon chrysanthemums become
really valuable about the time when other
plants give up the fight. I have the ill-
fortune to live where my flowers get frost

THE POMPON CHRYSANTHEMUM 169

earlier and harder than my near neighbours.
It is a particular satisfaction, therefore, to
have my chrysanthemums come into bloom
about the time that everything else is killed.
My sneeze weed and sweet alyssum were the
only flowers left to me, except some very
feeble stocks, when the chrysanthemums
were large enough to pick last year, and even
those were soon gone. Last fall the first
killing frost came September 2yth; the frosts
came almost nightly after the first week in
October; the flowers were in bloom, large
enough to pick, on October I2th, and
gave a constant supply from that time on.
The last picking was on November I2th, the
plants having twice gone through frosts of
eighteen degrees; but for some time longer
the flowers were effective when seen from a
distance, although too much injured to look
well at close quarters in the house.

" As cut flowers some of the bunches lasted
three weeks; but after they had suffered
from many frosts they lasted less than a week.

HOW TO GET MORE FLOWERS

"The pompon chrysanthemums are easily
by division of the roots. Each

I7O CHRYSANTHEMUMS

spring the old plant sends out numerous new
shoots, called suckers, which, if taken from
the old plant, with a few roots if possible,
will make blooming plants the following
fall. Should the suckers not have roots they
should be put in a pot or box of sand, and
given the same treatment which is given to
the ordinary 'slip,' or cutting. These
suckers will produce new roots very quickly.
When the plants become large they can be
divided in the spring by cutting them with a
spade into two or more pieces.

"If young plants are not wanted the
suckers should be removed, or else the plants
will stand too closely. Grown as ours are
for a screen, we let them stand at two to
three inches apart, and feed them heavily.
Their roots are shallow, therefore they must
be cultivated carefully. It is a good plan to
mulch with lawn clippings. So far, with us,
they have had no pests or diseases, a small
black plant-louse which comes in the middle
of summer always disappearing without
doing any harm. They should be watered
while in flower, if the ground is at all dry.

"Protection of the plants is a very simple
matter, grown as ours are. Twice their

THE POMPON CHRYSANTHEMUM

buds, while very young, have been killed by
unexpected early, heavy frosts, against which
we did not guard; but once in bloom
both flowers and buds seem to be able to
stand almost anything. However, I cover
ours at night with cotton cloths which are
attached to the bottom of the piazza railing,
and folded back by day. In winter the only
protection is their own tops, cut off and laid
over the roots. Thinning, fertilizing, mulch-
ing, supporting, covering against frosts, and
breaking down the tops in fall are all the care
needed for plants that yield us more flowers
than any others.

" There are two classes of hardy chrysan-
themums which may be had — the Japanese
and the pompons. The latter are usually far
more satisfactory, as they are much hardier,
yet it is possible to grow out of doors excellent
flowers of the Japanese sorts four, five, and
even six inches in diameter. There is nothing
else in the garden just like these pompon
chrysanthemums. Their colours are very
vivid, and harmonize with nothing else, and
because of their striking appearance it is
better to grow them in masses by themselves.

"The range of colour among the pompons

172 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

is as great as in their larger relatives, the
house chrysanthemums; and, for one who has
not the advantage of a glass structure in
which to grow the larger kinds, all the
pleasure which they bring can be had in
these smaller and hardier varieties."

CHAPTER XII
CULTURAL HINTS MONTH BY MONTH

JANUARY — About the first of the month put
in cuttings of all varieties that are to be grown
as specimen bush plants or standards.
About the 2Oth to 25th put in another
lot for the same purpose. Plants intended
for sale from two and one half inch pots
during February should be propagated as
fast as the cuttings can be secured. Stock
plants must be got into growth toward the
end of the month that we may secure
cuttings for plants for March sales. Pot all
cuttings as soon as ready. Order such novel-
ties as are intended for trial during the season.

February — Pot all cuttings as soon as
well rooted. Plants that were propagated
during December and January, intended for
specimen bush plants, must be stopped as
soon as they are two to three inches high.
They should also be repotted into four-inch
pots. Put in the last lot of cuttings for
173

174 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

specimen bush plants and standards about
the 2Oth of the month. Give stock plants
good care, particularly abundant venti-
lation. Put in cuttings for plants for
March sales. Plants that are being shipped
must be well packed and protected from cold.

March — Early propagated bush plants
and standards will be ready for repotting into
six-inch, the second lot into four-inch pots.
Keep all bush plants stopped as required.
Cuttings in propagating beds will need care-
ful attention as to shading and an abundance
of water. Stock plants should have all the
ventilation possible during bright sunny
days, to induce stocky, healthy cuttings for
April propagating. Propagate for sales as
required. If soil for general potting and
planting was not secured in the fall it must
be got as soon as possible.

April — Repot early bush plants into
eight-inch, second lot into six-inch, and last
lot into four-inch pots. Begin tying down
branches of bush plants to obtain desired
form. Stop standards to form head. Prop-
agate plants intended for specimen cut
blooms for exhibition from the 1st to
the I5th; also early varieties for cut

CULTURAL HINTS MONTH BY MONTH 17$

blooms for market, and for small bush plants
for market during the last half of the month.
Turn and mix the compost intended for
potting and planting. Plant hardy va-
rieties outdoors.

May — Repot early bush plants into
flowering pots; later ones into six- and eight-
inch pots as required. Give careful attention
to stopping and tying bush plants and stand-
ards. Pot all cuttings as soon as ready.
Propagate plants for principal crop of cut
blooms for market, for six-inch pot plants,
and plants for decorative purposes. Plant
all varieties intended for exhibition blooms.
Plant all varieties outdoors that are to be
grown there.

June — Pot all bush plants and stand-
ards into their flowering pots. Attend to
stopping and tying. Syringe freely. Give
all ventilation possible. Get benches filled
with soil, and set plants for principal crop of
cut blooms planted. Propagate late varieties
for cut blooms.

July — Discontinue stopping bush plants
after the yth of the month. Keep sur-
face of soil in benches stirred. Put supports
to all plants to be grown for cut blooms.

176 CHRYSANTHEMUM^

Remove laterals from early planted stock.
Syringe all plants freely. Keep houses cool,
and give all ventilation possible. Begin
feeding early-planted stock and bush plants,
if in condition for taking food. Plant late
varieties for cut blooms. Put supports to
bush plants to prevent branches breaking.
Put supports to all plants outdoors that
require supporting. Give plants outdoors
abundance of water.

August — Feed all plants that are in a
healthy condition. Remove laterals. Look
out for crown buds of early varieties.
Keep all plants tied to supports, and stems
straight. Look out for crown buds of
all varieties after the 2Oth. Disbud.
Lift and pot any plants that have been grown
in borders or benches for small bush plants.
Keep plants that are planted outdoors
thoroughly watered. Give them a mulching
of good manure.

September — Taking buds, disbudding,
tying, feeding, watering, and syringing are
all important now. See that all plants
are free from insects, and that they are
reasonably dry at night. Arrange for mar-
keting cut blooms. Decide what will be

CULTURAL HINTS MONTH BY MONTH 177

sent to exhibitions and where. Put up
supports for protecting early flowering va-
rieties that are to flower outdoors.

October — Disbudding will require almost
constant attention. Begin tying out bush
plants and standards. Early varieties will
be ready for use and should be disposed of.
Discontinue feeding red-coloured varieties.
Give abundant ventilation at all times.
Put some heat in the pipes during cold, wet
weather. Look out for damping of flowers.
Grade flowers that are to go to market, pack
them carefully, and be prompt in making
shipments. Exhibitions will be held and
exhibition blooms should be looked after
carefully, storing any that are developed too
early. Put the finish to bush plants. Note
varieties as to time of development, char-
acter, and colour. Make a display of plants
and blooms that are for sale. Select and
label healthy plants that have produced
good blooms for stock plants, before the
blooms are cut. Protect blooms that have
been grown outdoors.

November — Blooms that are to be held
for exhibition or other purposes should be
stored just before they are quite finished.

178 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

Market plants should be sold before they are
fully finished, if possible. Select plants that
are perfect. Store all stock plants as fast
as the blooms are cut. Collect and stack
soil and manure for next year's supply.
Lift and store all stock that has been grown
outdoors.

December — Remove all stock from the
beds and benches as soon as possible, to
allow the space to be used for other pur-
poses. See that frost does not penetrate
the storage room, and admit all the light
possible to keep the foliage of stored stock
in good condition. Begin propagating for
specimen bush plants and standards and
for early sales.

CHAPTER XIII
TYPES AND VARIETIES

Distinctive characteristics — The most popular types — Types
desirable for various purposes — Early, mid-season, and late
varieties for special purposes

THE history of the origin of the types of
chrysanthemum in cultivation at the present
time is obscure, and certainly is not essential
to their successful cultivation. They have
all been produced by blending two distinct
species, Chrysanthemum Indicum and Chrys-
anthemum morifolium, or Sinensis, as it is
commonly known. They belong to the
botanical order of Composite, the true
flowers of which are very small, tubular
shaped, and, arranged closely together, form-
ing a head which is surrounded by a circle of
petals or florets, called rays.

THE SINGLE TYPE

The small, single type appears to be
nearest to the form of the original parents.

179

ISO CHRYSANTHEMUMS

These produce flowers from one to two inches
across, having a yellow centre composed
of the normal, perfect flowers, or florets, as
they are called. While not always
strictly single, they all have the effect of
being so, and are so styled. The large
single forms are similar to the small,
but have flowers from four to five inches
across.

THE ANEMONE TYPE

These are somewhat similar to the single
type, but instead of the centre being com-
posed of normal florets, the tubes of the
florets are elongated, quilled, and enlarged
at the ends, producing a high, rounded
centre. The small anemones, known as
"pompon anemones," have flowers about
two inches across, with straight, short ray
florets. Like the true pompons, they are
quite hardy and may be grown outdoors.
The large anemones are similar to the pom-
pon anemones, but larger, the flowers being
three to four inches across. The Japanese
anemones are quite large, from four to six
inches across, and irregular in form, the ray
florets often being quite numerous and the

TYPES AND VARIETIES l8l

rays long, twisted, curled, and drooping,
producing singular and sometimes very
beautiful effects.

THE POMPON TYPE

The pompons have small blooms, some of
them being not more than one half inch
across. The growth is never more than
three feet high, the leaves are small, and the
stems stiff and wiry. They will live out of
doors with very slight protection in most
parts of the United States.

THE INCURVED TYPE

The flowers are regular in outline, glob-
ular, with the florets regularly and smoothly
arranged. Any unevenness is considered a
defect. Consequently the flowers of the
true incurved type are very formal.

THE REFLEXED TYPE

The flowers of this type are more or less
hemispheroidal, having the bloom well filled
with florets growing outward and downward
and full at the centre.

THE HAIRY TYPE

The flowers of this type are generally

1 82 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

small to medium size, incurving, the reverse
of the florets having more or less glandular,
hair-like growth on the surface.

THE JAPANESE TYPE

In this type are placed all the irregular,
fantastic, and beautiful forms that cannot
be included in any of the previously spec-
ified groups. The greater number of the
varieties grown in the United States must be
included in this type. With few exceptions,
the other types are not popular here. The
large, informal Japanese varieties are very
popular. The little pompons rank next to
them in popularity. At one time the hairy
type created somewhat of a sensation, but
since the novelty has worn off they are
rarely grown, except occasionally as a cu-
riosity.

SELECTIONS OF VARIETIES

In making selections of varieties for any
purpose it will be wise to include only the
very best forms in each class of colour.
New varieties are constantly being orig-
inated and introduced, and as soon as one
proves superior to any existing variety of

TYPES AND VARIETIES 183

the same colour, the older one is relegated to
obscurity. Thus the lists of varieties in
cultivation are constantly changing. Very
few varieties remain in cultivation for a
decade; many, of course, not more than a
year or two. In making selections for the
various purposes specified hereafter only
those that are considered the best in their
respective colours, with a liberal allowance
for individual preference or varying cir-
cumstances, have been named.

SINGLE VARIETIES

Like the pompons, these are growing more
popular each year. They may be used with
good effects as pot plants, singly or in plant
decorations. As cut flowers, they may be
used for many purposes where the large-
flowered varieties would be inappropriate.
Many new and beautiful varieties have been
originated recently.

Amber Queen, dwarf habit.

Argenta, dwarf, pure white.

Arlee, golden amber.

Belle of Weybridge, terra cotta.

F. W. Smith, rich pink.

Grade Lambert, deep rose pink.

J. T. Angus, rosy cerise, late.

Katie Covell, maroon.

Kitty Bourne, soft golden yellow

Lady Lu, large, pure white, vigorous grower.

184 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

Ladysmith, pink, early, first class.
Mizpah, purplish-rose, dwarf.
Merstham Jewel, terra cotta and gold.
Reginald Godfrey, yellow.
Rev. W. E. Renfray, rich crimson maroon.

POMPONS AND POMPON ANEMONES

These are hardy, and desirable for plant-
ing outdoors, also for growing as small bush
plants, for using in plant decorations, and
for cutting, as sprays of many of the varie-
ties are very beautiful.

WHITE

Angelique, early, graceful habit.

Baby Margaret, one of the most popular.

Emily Roebottom, pompon anemone.

La Purete, early, stiff stem, good for cutting.

Maid of Kent, an old and good variety.

Mildred, pompon anemone, blush edge to petals.

Queen of Whites, creamy white, good.

Elva, magnificent, pure white, early, one of the best.

PINK

Autumn Queen, an old and good variety.

Blenheim, magnificent pure pink.

Danizula, soft pink, good.

Grace Darling, pompon anemone.

La Paranace, delicate pink, one of the beet.

Rose Marguerite, dark rosy cerise, late.

Rosanthe, rose, good.

Alma, deep pink, one of the best.

YELLOW

Donkelarii, rich golden yellow.

Eagle d'Or, pompon anemone, pleasing flower.

Elberta, very good, deep yellow.

Golden Circle, early.

Golden Trevenna, small flowers, profuse bloomer.

Zenobia, early, rich deep yellow.

Klondike, brilliant yellow, compact bloom.

Ila, bright yellow, fimbriated pota's, one of the very best.

TYPES AND VARIETIES 185

OTHER COLOURS

Attila, orange maroon, excellent.

Brown Bessie, small flower but rich colour.

Canova, deep orange bronze, very rich.

Captivation, small reddish pink.

Julia Lagravere, the best dark red.

Little Pet, rich violet red.

Little Bob, red, early and free.

Little Dot, mahogany, profuse bloomer.

Manilla, pompon anemone, deep cardinal red, yellow centre.

Santiago, bronze red.

Stratagem, dark orange red.

Ingo, crimson mahogany, a splendid variety.

Skibo, fine bronze.

VARIETIES FOR SMALL BUSH PLANTS FOR
HOME USE OR MARKET

Selected because of reasonably dwarf
habit, vigorous, healthy growth, with stems
that require but little if any staking and ty-
ing. Abbreviations: Inc., incurved; Jap.
inc., Japanese incurved; Ref., reflexed; Jap.
ref., Japanese reflexed; Jap., Japanese; An.,
Anemone.

A. J. Balfour, bright rosy pink, Jap.

Brutus, orange bronze, Jap ref.

Carrie, bright yellow, early, Jap.

Dr. Enguehard, pink, Jap. inc.

F. A. Cobbold, mauve pink, Jap.

Garza, white, An.

George W. Childs, crimson, Jap.

Glory of the Pacific, pink, early, Jap.

Ivory, white, Jap. inc. An old variety, but one of the very best

in cultivation for this purpose.
John Shrimpton, crimson, ref.
Lady Lydia, white, Jap.
Midge, white, Jap., very dwarf.
Miss Alice Dalskov, light pink, sport from Ivory.

1 86 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

Miss Clay Frick, white, sport from William Duckham, Jap. inc.

Mizpah, single, bright purplish rose.

Monrovia, yellow, early, Jap.

Polly Rose, white, sport from Glory of the Pacific.

R. Hooper Pearson, very rich yellow, Jap. inc.

W. H. Lincoln, yellow, Jap. Will make a magnificent specimen.

Mrs. J. R. Trantor, white, Jap.

Golden Age, first class.

Yellow Miller.

VARIETIES FOR LARGE SPECIMEN PLANTS
AND STANDARDS

The necessary characteristics for any
variety to make a satisfactory large
specimen plant are, strong, vigorous
growth; good, healthy, and reasonably
heavy foliage; stiff stems, and moderately
dwarf habit.

A. J. Balfour, bright rosy pink, Jap. Makes a beautiful plant.
Col. D. Appleton, yellow, Jap. inc. Grows a trifle tall, but by

stopping late may be shaped into a good plant.
Dr. Enguehard, pink, Jap. inc.

Garza, white, An. Can be grown to make a splendid plant.
Glory of the Pacific, light pink, early, Jap.
Ivory, white, Jap. inc. One of the very best varieties for the

purpose.

Lady Lydia, white, Jap. Makes a fine plant or standard.
Louis Boehmer, pink, inc., hairy.

Miss Alice Byron, white. Rather tall, but will make a good plant.
Miss Clay Frick, white; sport from William Duckham
Mrs. H. Weeks, white, Jap. inc. Tall-growing, but can be worked

into a magnificent bush or standard.
Polly Rose, white, sport from Glory of the Pacific.
R. Hooper Pearson, yellow, Jap. inc. The foliage of this variety

is not quite as heavy as desirable, but the colour is superb.
Soleil d' Octobre (Oct. Sunshine), yellow, ref., early.
Viviand-Morel, pink. Makes a beautiful plant.
W. H. Lincoln, yellow, Jap. This is probably superior to any

other variety for the purpose.

TYPES AND VARIETIES 187

Brutus, orange bronze, Jap. ref.

Annie Laurie, dark purplish cerise. Makes a magnificent specimen.

VARIETIES FOR SINGLE-STEM PLANTS IN
SIX-INCH POTS

These have been selected for both exhibi-
tion and decorative purposes because of
reasonably dwarf habit of growth, good
foliage, large blooms of fine form, and a good
variety of colour.

WHITE

Beatrice May. A magnificent Jap. inc.

Merza, Jap. inc.

Miss Alice Byron, Jap. inc.

Miss Clay Frick, Jap. inc.

Miss May Seddon, Jap. Should be propagated early.

Mrs. H. Weeks, Jap. inc. Magnificent blooms from crown buds.

Polly Rose, Jap. early.

October Frost, Jap., early. (Smith's Advance.)

PINK

A. J. Balfour, Jap.

Amorita, Jap. inc. early.

F. A. Cobbold, Jap. ref.

Miriam Hankey, Jap. inc. New and promising.

Morton F. Plant, Jap. ref.

Mrs. Perrin, Jap. inc. /

William Duckham, Jap. inc.

Glory of the Pacific.

YELLOW

Buttercup, inc.

Col. D. Appleton, Jap. inc.

Cheltoni, Jap.

F. S. Vallis, Jap. ref. Mewtham Yellow, Jap. ref.
Monrovia, Jap. Early. Mrs. W. Duckham, Jap. ref.
Maj. Bonnaffon, inc. Sunburst, Jap. inc.

OTHER COLOURS

G. J. Brooks, Jap. inc., purple crimson, silver purple reverse.
J. H. Doyle, Jap. ref., terra cotta red.

1 88 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

John Shrimpton, ref., crimson. An old variety, fine when well

grown.

Merstham, red, Jap. ref.
Mrs. J. E. Dunne, Jap. ref., rosy terra cotta.
Mrs. Henry Partridge, Jap. inc., crimson, old gold reverse.
Mrs. George Heaume, Jap. ref., salmon bronze.
Mrs. D. Willis James, Jap., chestnut red.
Millicent Richardson, Jap. ref., rich purple claret.
Old Gold, Jap.

Winifred, salmon yellow, Jap. inc.
G. W. Pook, salmon terra cotta, Jap. inc.
Leslie Morrison, rosy crimson, Jap. inc.
Mrs. O. H. Kahn, bronze. A splendid variety, Jap. inc.
Pockett's Crimson, Jap. ref.
Charles H. Totty, chestnut scarlet, Jap. ref.

VARIETIES FOR GROWING IN SIX- OR EIGHT-
INCH POTS, WITH THREE TO SIX
FLOWERS, FOR USE IN PLANT
DECORATIONS

WHITE Mrs. Coombs.

Clementine Touset. Rosiere.

Miss Alice Byron. YELLOW

Mrs. W. H. Weeks. Golden Age.

Mrs. Nathan Smith Golden Wedding.

October Frost. Maj. Bonnaffon.

Polly Rose. Monrovia.

R. Hooper Pearson.

Soleil d'Octobre.

CRIMSON AND RED
Helen Bloodgood. John Shrimpton.

Leila Filkins. Merstham Crimson.

Mrs. Perrin. Pockett's Crimson

VARIETIES FOR EXHIBITION CUT BLOOMS

These are all varieties that have appeared
more or less prominently at the exhibitions

TYPES AND VARIETIES 189

within the past two or three years. There
are other varieties that can be grown to
creditable exhibition quality, but few if any
will prove superior to the varieties specified
in their respective colours, or in open classes.
They possess, when properly developed, quali-
ties of size, substance, colour, stem, and foliage
to place them among the winning exhibits.

Alice Lemon, soft pink.

Beatrice May, white, Jap. inc. A massive bloom, when grown from

crown bud, which may be taken as early as August isth.
Col. D. Appleton, yellow, Jap. inc. Massive blooms from crown

buds. Lack of gracefulness is its only fault.
Yellow sport from Mrs. J. A. Miller, light yellow.
Chrysanthemiste Montigny, lemon yellow, Jap. inc. Another

variety that will produce enormous blooms if early crown

buds are taken. Propagate early.

Mrs. O. H. Kahn, bronze, Jap. inc. A splendid variety.
Cheltoni, yellow, sport from Nellie Pockett, Jap.
Pockett's Crimson, Jap. ref. New and best of its class.
Charles H. Totty, chestnut scarlet, Jap. ref.

F. S. Vallis, yellow, Jap. ref. Massive bloom, but weak stem.

G. W. Pook, salmon terra-cotta, Jap. inc.
Winifred, salmon terra-cotta, Jap. inc.

Golden Dome, yellow, inc. Sport from T. Eaton.

Howard Gould, bright chestnut, golden reverse, Jap.

Lady Hopetoun, pink, Jap.

Mrs. David Syme, pure white, Jap. Probably the best white

ever introduced,

Mrs. A. R. Peacock, white, Jap. inc.
Miss Alice Finch, purple crimson, Jap. inc.
Merza, white, Jap. inc. Large bloom and good foliage. Stem is

not quite first class.
Mary Mason, bronzy red, Jap.
Miss May Seddon, white, Jap. ref. Propagate early.
Miss Miriam Hankey, beautiful pink, Jap. inc., hairy. One of the

most promising of recent introductions.
Morton F. Plant, deep pink. Jap. ref. Magnificent stem and

foliage, but the flower sits a trifle too close to the foliage.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS

Mrs. George Heaume, salmon bronze, Jap.

Mrs. George Hunt, canary yellow, Jap. inc. Enormous blooms.

Mrs. Henry Barnes, old rose, Jap. inc. New.

Mrs. H. Weeks, purest white, Jap. inc. Magnificent in every

particular when well grown. Difficult to keep, as it is very

susceptible to damping.
Mrs. A. T. Miller, white, Jap.
Mrs. J. A. Miller, brick red, Jap. ref.
Mrs. John E. Dunne, rosy terra cotta. ref. A splendid grower

and massive blooms.

Armanda, creamy white. Enormous Jap.
Pockett's Crimson, old gold, reverse, Jap. inc.
President Roosevelt, white, with pink striping to each petal, giving

a light flesh pink effect, Jap. inc. An attractive flower.
Timothy Eaton, white, Jap. inc. A massive but coarse bloom.
T. Richardson, soft shell pink, Jap.
Valerie Greenham, bright pink, Jap. ref.
William Duckham, silvery pink, Jap. inc. One of the very best

varieties.

W. Woodmason, crimson, Jap. ref.
Well's Late Pink, Jap. ref.
William Turner, white, Jap.

Yellow Eaton, Jap. inc. Sport from Timothy Eaton.
S. A. Necceur-Bey, bronzy yellow, Jap. inc.

VARIETIES FOR GROWING FOR COMMER-
CIAL CUT FLOWERS

The following selection includes most
of the best known and most popular va-
rieties for the purpose. It would be unwise
for any one to grow more than one or two
of the specified varieties of each colour of
the early, mid-season, and late varieties.

Some varieties are better adapted to
certain treatment than others, and some
markets demand different varieties from
others.

TYPES AND VARIETIES

The grower can select the one or two va-
rieties best suited to his conditions and needs.

EARLY WHITE

Miss Miriam Hankey.

Clementine Touset.
Ivory.

Morton F. Plant.
William Duckham.

Beatrice May.

Mrs. Perrin.

Madam Gastillier.

MID-SEASON YELLOW

October Frost.

Col. D. Appleton.

Oroba.

Golden Age.

Virginia Poehlman.

Golden Wedding.

Polly Rose.

Major Bonnaffon.

EARLY YELLOW

R. F. Felton.

Sunburst.

Carrie.

Comoleta.

LATE WHITE

Soleil d' Octobre.

Jeanne Nonin.

Donatella.

Mile. Anna Debono.

Monrovia. A standard variety.

Merry Christmas.

Golden Glow.

Mrs. Jerome Jones.

EARLY PINK

Timothy Eaton.
William H. Chadwick.

Amorita.

Chad wick, Improved.

Glory of the Pacific.

Yanoma.

Mrs. Coombs.
Mrs. William Wincott.

LATE PINK

Mme. L. H. Cochet.
Pink Queen.
Unaka.

John Burton.
Lavender Queen.
Maud Dean

Rosiere.

W. T. Brock, Jap. inc.

Miss Helen Frick.

MID-SEASON WHITE

Mile. Jeanne Rosette.

Beatrice May.

Superba.

Miss Alice Byron.

LATE YELLOW

Miss Clay Frick.

Golden William H. Chadwick.

President Taft.

Golden Dome.

MID-SEASON PINK

Mrs. E. Beuttner.

A. J. Balfour.

Mrs. George Beech.

Dr. Enguehard.

Nagoya,

There is but little demand commercially
for chrysanthemums other than white and
the various shades of pink and yellow. Some

192 CHRYSANTHEMUMS

crimsons and reds may be demanded, how-
ever; therefore a selection of a few varieties
is given:

John Shrimpton, crimson. Intensity, red.

Merstham, crimson. Goachers, crimson.

Pockett's Crimson. Matchless, red

HAIRY VARIETIES

F. J. Taggart, yellow, one of the best.

L'Enfant des Deux Mondes, white. Sport from Louis Boehmer.

Locadie Gentils, yellow. Sport from L'Enfant des Deux Mondes.

Louis Boehmer, magenta pink.

Pluma, delicate pink.

ANEMONE VARIETIES

Descartes, crimson red. Dwarf.

Enterprise, light rose, yellow centre.

Eulalie, white, good.

Garza, white. Splendid for bush plants.

Mrs. Hugh Gardner, deep rose.

Zoraida, white rays, yellow centre. Large and fine.

Beatrice Asmus, white. Small flower, but a pleasing form.

EARLY LARGE-FLOWERING VARIETIES
FOR OUTDOORS

List of kinds recommended by the ama-
teur whose experiences are quoted at length
in Chapter I.

Any of the following early-flowering
varieties may be expected to do well.
I would always include Glory of the
Pacific, and its sports, Cremo and Polly Rose.
DWARF

Cremo, light yellow. Lady Harriet, deep pink, incurved.

Glory of the Pacific, pink. Pink Ivory, pink sport from Ivory.

Ivory, white, globular. Polly Rose, white.

TYPES AND VARIETIES

MEDIUM

George W. Childs, crimson. Merry Monarch, white.

Lady Fitzwygram, white. Monrovia, bright yellow.

Marion Henderson, yellow. Yellow Fitzwygram.

TALL

Soleil d'Octobre, yellow. The tall varieties are not well adapted
to outdoor cultivation.

If the plants are to be grown for just one
flower it should be so stated when buying,
as otherwise you may receive plants with
the tops nipped out, causing the plant to
branch and form a bush. If you want to
try any not named above, be sure to ask for
early, large-flowering varieties.

THE END

THE COUNTRY LIFE PRESS, GARDEN CITY, N. Y.

INDEX

Amateur's experience, An,
7, 165-

America, Exhibiting in, 109.

Ammoniacal copper car-
bonate, 158.

Ammonia, Sulphate of, 74.

Anemone type, 180.

Aphis, black, 146,
green, 146.

April, Work for, 174.

Arranging colours, 108.

Artemisias, 6.

Ashes, Wood, 71.

August, Work for, 176.

Beds, Benches better than,

21.

Bee-fly, chrysanthemum,

151-
Benches better than solid

beds, 21.

Construction of, 22.
Planting in, 82.
Bentley, Professor, quoted,

139.

Berberis Thunbergii used

in exhibiting, 1 10.
Black aphis, 146.
Blooms, Dressing, 107.
for exhibition, Propaga-
ting, 77.

for exhibition, Selecting,
98.

Blooms, Growing exhibi-
tion, 77.
Methods of supporting,

Packing exhibition, 99.
Staging, 1 06.
Storage room for, 24.
Storing 97.
Tying, 55.

Bordeaux mixture, 159.
Bottom heat, 34.
Boxes, Plants grown in,

81.
Breaking, Preventing

plants from, 52.
Bud formation, Influence

of season on, 92.
Taking the, 55, 91.
Buds, crown, 9.

for largest flowers, 10.
terminal, 9.
"Bud varieties," 143.
Bug, the tarnished plant,

150.

Burning of varieties, 95.
Bush Plants, 43. ^
Dwarf, 125.
Forms of, 49.
Frames for, 56.
House for, 23.
Making, 12.
Scales for judging, 62.
Supports for, 13.

195

196

INDEX

Training, 49.
Transporting, 60.
Varieties for small, 185.

Care of stock plants, 32.
Caterpillars, 149.
Chrysanthemum bee-fly,

I$I-

frutescens as a stock,
42.

Indicum, 179.
In the greenhouse, 19.
Morifolium, 179.
soil, The best, 26.
Miniature, 128.
Chrysanthemums, pompon,

.165.
with other crops in the

greenhouse, 21.
Church decoration, Chrys-
anthemums for, 131.
Classes of hardy chrysan-
themums, 171.
Colours, Arranging, 108.
Perpetuating new, 144.
Commercial fertilizers, 67,

75;

Commission men, Selling to,
123.

Complete fertilizers, 75.

Composition of the chrys-
anthemum, Mineral,
64.

Compost, An expert's opin-
ion of, 28.
Manures in the, 30.

Construction, Chrysanthe-
mum greenhouse, 17.
of benches, 22.

Crops in the greenhouse,

Chrysanthemums with
other, 21.

Cross-fertilization, 135.
Crossing, varieties for, 137
Crown bud, The, 9, 88.
for largest flowers, 10.
vs. terminal buds, The,

89.
Cut blooms, growing plants

for, 120.
profits in, 122.
varieties for exhibition,

1 88.
Cut flowers, varieties for

commercial, 190.
Cutting house, Shading the,

36.

Cuttings, How to make, 37.
Rooting, 35.

Temperature for rooting,
35-

.95-
caused by spraying, 94.

December, Work for, 178.

Decoration, Chrysanthe-
mums for interior, 127,
188.

Disbudding, 9, 54, 90.

Distance for planting, 80.

Division, Propagation by,
39-

Drainage, Importance of,

Dressing blooms, 107.
Dwarf bush plants, 125.

Early, large-flowering vari-
eties, 192.

Eichling, C. W., quoted,
161.

INDEX

197

Elements of plant food, 65
England, Exhibiting in, 109.
Method of propagating

in, 36.

Ethics of exhibiting, no.
Excessive feeding, Results

of, 31.
Exhibiting, Berberis Thun-

bergii used in, no.
Ethics of, no.
in America, 109.
in England, 109.
Exhibition blooms, Grow-
ing, 77-
Packing, 99.
Propagating for, 77.
varieties for, 188.
Exhibition, Selectingblooms

for, 98.
Experience, An amateur's,

7, 165.

Expert's opinion of com-
post, An, 28.

Export, Packing plants for,
118.

February, Work for, 173.
Feeding, Results of ex-
cessive, 31.
the chrysanthemum, 28,

64.

in the South, 163.
Fertilizers, Commercial, 66,

67, 75-

Flowers after frost,-i68.
Crown buds for largest,

10.
in U. S., Value of plants

and, 112.
Frame for bush plants, 56.

for standards, 59.
Freight, Sending plants by,

61.

Frost, Flowers after, 168.
Protection from early,
14.

Glass, Growing under, 17.
Grafting for standards, 39.
Grasshopper, 149.
Green aphis, 146.
Greenhouse, Best height for

a, 18.

Chrysanthemums with
other crops in the, 21.
construction, 17.
on the plants, Influence

of the, 19.

Place of the chrysanthe-
mum in the, 19.
Ventilators in the, 18.
Growing exhibition blooms,

77-
plants for cut blooms,

120.
Cuide to the sections, 99.

Hairy type, 181.

Hardy chrysanthemums,
classes of, 171.

Heat, "Bottom," 34.

Height for a greenhouse,
Best, 1 8.

Home decoration, chrys-
anthemums in, 130.

House for specimen bush

plants, 23.
Propagating, 34.
shading the cutting, 36.

198

INDEX

How to make a bush plant,

12.

make cuttings, 37.
train standards, 12.

Importance of drainage,

47-

of texture of soil, 25.
Importing, 132.
Incurved type, 181.
Packing the, 101.
Influence of greenhouse on

the plants, 19.
season on bud forma-
tion, 92.

Interior decoration, Chrys-
anthemums for, 127.

January, Work for, 173.
Japanese type, 182.
Judging bush plants, Scales

for, 62.

seedlings, 144.
July, Work for, 175.
June, Work for, 175.

Large bushes and stand-
ards, Varieties for, 1 86.

Large-flowering, early vari-
eties, 192.

Large-flowering varieties,
Protecting, 6.

Leaf spot, 152.

Lime, Supplying, 69.

Liquid manure, 71.

Lodeman, E. G., quoted,
159-

Mail, Shipping plants by,
117.

Manure, 29, 67.

in the compost, 30.

Liquid, 71.

March, Work for, 174.
May, Work for, 175.
Mendelism, 136.
Method of propagating in
England, 36.

of supporting blooms, 84.
Mildew, Powdery, 157.

Treatment for, 159.
Mineral composition of
chrysanthemums, 64.
Miniature chrysanthe-
mums, 128.
Multiplying pompons, 169.

New varieties, Producing,

134-

Nitrate of potash, 74.

soda, 73.
November, Work for, 177.

October, Work for, 177.
Outdoors, Growing plants,

5-
Pompons for growing, 6.

Packages for shipping

blooms, 124.
Packing blooms, Principles

of, 105.

exhibition blooms, 99.
plants for export, 118.
in warm weather, 116.
the incurved type, 101
the reflex type, 101.
young plants, 114.
Perpetuating new colours,
144.

INDEX

IQ9

Place of the chrysanthe-
mum in the green-
house, 19.

Plant food, Elements of, 65.
Planting, Distance for, 8,80.

in benches, 82.
Plants and flowers in U. S.

Value of, 112.
by freight, Sending, 6l.
by mail, Sending, 117.
Plants, dwarf, 125.
in the South, Feeding, 163
for cut blooms, Growing,

120.

for export, Packing, 118.
Frames for bush, 56.
from breaking, Prevent-
ing, 52.

outdoors, Growing, 5.
grown in boxes, 81.
in pots, 79.

Influence of the green-
house on the, 19.
in warm weather, Pack-
ing young, 114, 1 1 6.
protecting in the South,

163.

raising from seed, 141.
Seed, 137.
Selling young, 113.
Transporting bush, 60
Pollenizing, 138.
Time for, 140.
Pompon chrysanthemums,

165.

Pompons and pompon-
anemones, 184.
as a screen, 168.
for growing outdoors, 6.
Multiplying, 169.
Protection for, 170.

Pompon type, 181.
Potash, Nitrate of, 74.
Potting, Soil for, 44
Pots, Plants grown in, 79

used, Sizes of, 48
Powdery mildew, 157.
Preparing the soil, 25, 27.
Preventing rust, 155.

plants from breaking, 52.
Principles of packing

blooms, 105.

propagation, 33.
Producing new varieties,

134-

Profits of cut blooms, 122.
Propagating, 25.

by division, 39.

for exhibition blooms,

77-

house, A, 34.
in England, Method of,

36.

Principles of, 33.
Protecting large-flowering

varieties, 6.

plants in the South, 163.
from early frosts, 14.
pompons, 170.
Protection, Winter, 15.

Quoted, C. W. Eichling,

161.
Elmer D. Smith, 118,

134.

E. G. Lodeman, 159.
George E. Stone, 159.
J. J. Willis, 32.
Professor Bentley, 139.

Raising Plants from seed,
141.

200

INDEX

Red spider, 148
Reflexed type, 181.

Packing the, 101.
Remedy for stem rot, 157.
Repot, When to, 46.
Results of excessive feed-
ing, 31-

Rooting cuttings, 35, 38.
Rust, 153.

Preventing, 155.

Scale of points for bush

plants, 62.
seedlings, 145.
Screen, Pompons as a, 168.
Season for selling chrysan-
themums, 113.
on bud formation, In-
fluence of, 92.
Sections, Guide to the, 99.
Seedlings, Judging, 144.

Scale of points for, 145.
Seed plants, 137.
Seed, Raising plants from,

141.

Selecting blooms for exhi-
bition, 98.
varieties, 182.
Selling the chrysanthemum,

Season for, 113.
to commission men, 123.
young plants, 113.
September, Work for, 176.
Shading, 53.

the cutting house, 36.
Shipping blooms, Packages

for, 124.

plants by freight, 61.
oy mail, 117.

Single stem plants, Vari-
eties for, 187.

type, 179.

varieties, 183.
Sizes of pots used, 48.
Small bush plants, varie-
ties for, 185.
Smith, Elmer D., quoted,

118, 134.

Soda, Nitrate of, 73.
Soil for potting, 44.

Importance of texture of,

25-

Preparing the, 25, 27.
The best chrysanthe-
mum, 26.
South, feeding plants in the

163.
protecting plants in the,

163.

Space for planting, 8.
Sports, 142.
Spraying, Damping caused

by, 94-

Staging blooms, 106.
Standards and large bushes,

Varieties for, 186.
Frame for, 59.
Grafting for, 39.
Training for, 12.
Treatment for, 51.
Stem rot, Remedy for, 157.
Stock, Chrysanthemum

frutescens as a, 42.
plants, Care of, 32.
Stone, George E., quoted,

153.

Storage room for blooms,

24.

Storing blooms, 97.
Suckers, 86.
Support, for bush plants,

A, 13.

INDEX

201

Supporting blooms, Method

of, 84.

Sulphate of ammonia, 74.
Sulphur, 158.
Supplying lime, 69.
Syringing, 83.

Taking the bud, 55, 91.
Tarnished plant bug, 150.
Temperature for rooting

cuttings, 35.
Terminal buds, 9, II, 90.

Crown vs., 89.
Texture of the soil, Im-
portance of, 25.
Thrips, 149.
Time for applying food,

87.

Tobacco stems, 147.
Training bush plants, 49.
Transporting bush plants,

60.
Treatment for mildew, 159.

standards, 51.
Tying the blooms, 55.
Type, anemone, 180.

hairy, 181.

incurved, 181.

Japanese, 182.

pompon, 181.

reflexed, 181.

single, 179-

Value of chrysanthemums
for decoration, 129.

plants and flowers in

theU. S., 112.
Varieties, Burning of, 95.

Early, large - flowering,
192. for commercial cut
flowers, 190.

Crossing, 137.

decoration, 188.

exhibition cut blooms,
188.

large bushes and stand-
ards, 186.

single-stem plants, 187

small bush plants, 185.

new, producing, 134.

selecting, 182.

single, 183.

Ventilators in the green-
house, 1 8.

Warm weather, Packing
young plants in, 116.

Whale oil soap, 149, 151.

When to pollenize, 140.
repot, 46.

Willis, J. J., quoted, 32.

Winter protection, 15.

Wood ashes, 71.

Work for January, 173;
February, 173; March,
174; April, 174; May,
175; June, 175; July,
175; August, 176; Sep-
tember, 176; October,
177; November, 177;
December, 178.

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