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Thus, wliile hundreds or thousands are, in the course of every summer, whirled along the rails from Yarmouth to Din^by, and vice versa, or are forced into expressions of admiration as they steam through the wonderful passage of Digby Gut, few ever think it worth while to visit and study the Jong, curious neck of land whose eastei'n end forms one of the pillars of that famous gateway, and which, stretching thence to the westward as a narrow and yet almost mountainous ridge, separates the watei's of St. Mary's Bay from those of the Bay of Fundy. Even professional naturalists and geologists, usually upon the alert for whatever is new or instructive in the world of nature, would seem in but few instances to have visited Digby Neck, except that portion immediately adjacent to the town of Digby, and observations upon its structure, physical features, mineral contents or floral characteristics, are alike few. And yet it may safely be said that, with the exception of Blomidon, no area of equal extent is to be found in Nova Scotia, and probably not in eastern America, which presents such peculiar featuren of scenery, geological structure, plant distribution, or mineral associations, as are here met with. It has hence been thought that the following notes, taken during a sojourn of several weeks upon the Neck, in connection with the work of the geological survey, may be of interest to the members of the Institute, and possibly encourage others to the task of its further exploration. '■-'-'""■" '■■-"■- (68) .:,:': 'i'.y , •■■■■-• 60 NOTES ON GEOLOGY AND MOTANV OF DIGBY NECK — BAILEY. PHYSICAL FEATURES. " Under the (lesignation of " Digby Xeck" will be included, for the purposes of this paper, not only the long narrow ridge properly so called, together with the isthmus by which this is connected with the mainland of Nova Scotia, but also what is clearly but a former extension of this ridge through Long and Briar Islands. As thus regarded, the area naturally becomes divided ph}'- sically, as it is also geological l3^ into two portions, of 'which the one, comprising the isthnuis referred to, is cotnparatively low, while the other, more by the abruptness of the contrast than by the possession of any considerable altitude, may almost be termed mountainous. 'J'liis latter is indeed the extension, westward of Digl)y Gut, of what, eastward of the latter, is commonly known as the North-Mountain range. The total length of this belt of high land, from the Gut t(i the extremity of Briar Island, is 44 miles ; and for much of the dis- tance the breadth varies but little from a mile and three quar- ters. There are, however, places, as at Sandy Cove, where inden- tations on opposite sides of the peninsula considerably reduce the actual distance from water to water, while at Petite Passage, and again at Grand Passage, transverse gorges, excavated com- pletely through the peninsula and of great depth, give free movement to those waters as well as to navigation, from side to side. On the other hand, the breadth of the isthmus connecting the mountains with the mainland is, between the one and the other, only about three miles, while betw^ i Annapolis Basin and the head of St. Mary's Bay it is about uvew miles. Near the town of Digby the connecting isthmus includes some rather high and no very low land, but the elevation declines both in the direction of the foot of the higher hills and again towards the head of St. Mary's Bay, where, upon the ebb of the tide, the low shores are prolonged outward into extensive mud-flats. The maximum elevation of the hilly range is about 350 feet. It would be very incorrect, however, to regard this as a simple ridge extending through the peninsula and sloping from a NOTES ON OEOLOGY AND BOTANY OF DIGBY NECK — HAILEY. 70 a centi'ul axis to either shore. On the contrary, a series of contour lines would show that while the ranp^e is one in its relations to the lowlands, it is itself made up of nuiii}' suhonlinate ridges, not (juite pai-allel to the length of the peninsula itself, and so arranged as to form a series of obli(]uely overlapping lines. The course of the transverse valleys thus formed is usually not far frouj north and south, and the descent to these, as at Sandy Cove, is usually quite abrupt, while at the Petite Passage, which strikingly illustrates the feature alluded to, the shores on either side stand as well nigh precipitous bluffs overlooking the alter- nate rush of the tides through that wonderful channel. An adnnral)le o])portunity foi* the study of the orographic features of the peninsula is afforded by a high and conspicuous peak, which, with a nearly vertical face of over one hundred feet, over- looks the pictui'esque settlement of Sandy Cove. In the almost unobstructed view which may thence be obtained, and of which a pa)-t only is shown in the accompanying photograph, Plate IV, not only does the observer marvel at the wonderful beauty and singular characteristics of the immediate foreground, but, for miles to the westward, sees ridge after ridge presenting to the sky an outline which is conspicuously serrated, suggestive of what is actuall^^ the case, the existence of table upon table of rocky masses, resting one upon another, each abrupt upon the one side and upon the other sloping gently backward, only to meet and to be capped by other masses similarly inclined. This feature is more marked west of Sandy Cove than to the eastward, and through much of the peninsula in that direction this may Ije regarded as a sort of trough, formed by and parallel with these bounding ridges. In this trough, through which runs the stage road to Tiverton and Westport, are contained almost all the cultivable lands of the peninsula, and in places long narrow shallow lakes, with connecting streams and meadows. ' The peninsula of Digby Neck is thus, as regards its physical features, a district of bold contrasts, including long and promi- nent ridges, separated in some places by broad and open valleys, 71 NOTES ON GEOLOGY AND HOTANY OF DIGHY NKCK— RAILEY. in others by nai-row tiouglis, nvIuIu aci-oss l)otli, at iiitorvals, stretch transverse (k^pressions, al\va3's rehitively deep, and in Rome instances sinking far l)ek)w tide leveh In these hitter cases, especially at Sandy Cove and in the Petite P(»ssa<;e, tlie whole structure of the peninsula is aiiniirahl}' exposed, and in the cragj:^y bluti's which border them is determined scenery which in many i-e.spects may well be compared with much of that in the vicinity ot the (Giant's Causeway, in Ireland. So high, indeed, and so steep is much of the shore, particularly upon the southern side, that a safe descent to the beach, if beacii there be, is often hard to tind and in places (juite impossible. As would naturally be inferred from such diverse physical features, the depth and chai-acter of the soil over the |)eninsula exhibit similai' diversity. Thus,(Mi the lowlands of the isthmus, between AmuipoHs J^)asin and St. Maiy's Bay, where the under- lying rocks are saiidstones, the soils derived thei-efrom are natur- ally also sandy, though, like the corresponding soils of Annapolis Basin, often quite productive. Neariiig the hills to the north of this tract, on the other hand, the land I'apidly becomes stonj', through the distribution of drift, while the hill-slopes themselves are thickly covered with scattered blocks of all sizes. Again on the tops of the hills the soil-covering is usually very scanty and often wholly wanting, Imt between these, and especially on the transverse valley's, the soils are both deeper and richer, giving support to numei'ous prosperous farms. The proportion of poor to good land increases progressively to the westward, and in Long anlomid(jn. The prevailing colour is a brick-red, of lio-ht and dark shades. At intervals it is intei-stratitied with light green bands varying in width from half an inch to 5 or G inches. The green bands especially characterize the lower beds, and these are also dis- tinctly n)oi"e arenaceous than the beds above, (ju one of the reefs laid bare by the tide was observed what appeared to be a tree-trunk several feet in length, together with some obscure branching mai'king.s, which resend)led tracks, but both were obscure, and nothing else of this natui'e could be found. 73 NOTES ON (iEOF.OOY AND BOTANY OF DK.'hV NKCK — UAII-KY Tlio traps, which form hy tar the lar<:f('st and most cons}>ic- uousoh'mont in tht! structure of Di^'hy Neck, have hecu (K'scrihed as vai'ied, hut tiu» div(»rsity which is seen is Ano i-ather to mere variations of colour and texture than to any essential diH'erence of composition. And these variations seem to recur without any definite order, the colour even within a few yards often shadinrj off from grey, the prevailing tint, to green oi- jiurjilish, while both in the coastal dirt's aning at a slight angle towards the Bay of Fundy, and are intersectec^ by vertical veins from mere streaks to 4 or 5 inches in width. These consist of various silicious minerals, while those occupying the horizontal fissures appear to be chieHy zeolitic. The vertical veir.s have a strike about NNE, (magnetic). Other good exhibitions, especially of the columnar structure, may be seen about Digby Light and Brojul Cove ; bnt none are so remarkable as those artbrded hy the depro.ssions of Sandy Cove and the Petite Passage. This latter truly wonderful gap, of which the northern entrance is shown in Plate VI, throU};h wdiich rtows alternately a tidal current nearly 100 feet deep, and with a velocity at times of not less than 8 knots, is upon its western side, above the little fishing village of Tiverton, bordered and overlooked b}' beetling dirt's, of which the indivi- dual columns are most complete, and so carved by the sea as to exhibit in places all the aspects of human architecture. The boldness of the scenery is here further enhanced by the occur- rence of numerous large blocks of trap, often 20 oi* 30 feet in diameter, and of grotesque sha])es, wliich are perched, sentinel- like, upon the very e^lge. of the blurt's, more than 100 feet above the water. These, if not " boulders of decomposition," must have been derived from the trappean ridges which, though now invisiV)le through .submergence, are known to lie along the Bay of Fundy trough, outside of but parallel to the present coast. NOTES ON OEOLOGV AND HOTANV OF DKJHV NECK — lUir.EV. 74 Plato V, acc()tiii)iiiiyin^' this jjiipcr, roprosonts the husaltic vstructuro a.s hcon .it Israel Cdvo, near the .southern end of Petite Passaf^e. Some tine basaltic sceneiy, of which a skfdcli is ^qven in "Acadian (Juolo^ry/' is also to be seen on Briar Island, near W(;stj>ort, but iit tfonoral the land here is lovvei' and the features less bold than about the Petitt; Passage. That so ])i'oininent a rid^'e as that of Hi^by Neck should have been greatly affected by the conditions incidental to the glacial perioil, would natni'ally be expected. These ai*e, however, shown rather in the evidences of enormous denudation than in the ])roduction of new deposits. Portions of tlui I'idn^e are, it is true, somewhat deeply buried in boulder clay ; and boulders (inoludinix in a few instances (^ranitic antl fcisitic blocks which must have come fi'om the otluu' side of the Bay of Fundy) are scattered overall parts of its surface; but the occurrence in great pi-ofusion of the chaructei'istic rocks of the ])eninsula along the southern side of 8t. Mary's Bay, and, though less abundantly, over Yarmouth and Shelburne Counties, even to the Atlantic seaboard, gives forcible illustration of the extent to wdnch the substance of the peninsula has been removed. The fact also that the transverse valleys of Sandy Cove, Petite Passage and Grand Pas.sage, as well as others less con- spicuous, are oblique to the peninsula and almost exactly parallel to each otlior, while their course corresponds with that of the glacial striation of the district, goes far to favor the view that they owe their origin, partly if not whollj', as has been suggested in the case of Digby Gut, to the excavating action of glacial streams'. The occu'rence of striations on the surface of the basaltic columns in Israel C;)ve, and within a few feet of the surface of the water, gives further probability to this view. MINERALS. Tb.e minerals of Digby Neck are the same as those found in other parts of the North Mountain Range, but are less abundant and less vai'ied than in the section of the latter which lies east of Digby Gut. . 75 NOTES ON GEOLOGY AND BOTANY OF DIGBY NECK — BAILEY. Iron ores are both the most alundant and most incercstin^ of these minerals. Tliey occupy veins tiaversingc tlie trappean rock, and with a tendency, apparently, to lun in noi'th and south directions. They occur at many points, the most promi- nent hein^ alon^ the road from Di<(bv to Pi^Viy Lifjht, NiciioU's mine in Rossway, Johnson's mine in Waterford. and Morehouse's mine on the 8t. Mar^-'s Day shore near Sandy Cove. At several of these points attempts have been made to remove the ore, and Considerable money has been spent, but the sujall size of the veins and the cost of removal have in all instances prevented them from being remunerative. The ore is sometimes massive, but more generally cr3'stalline, being partl}^ magnetite and partly hematite. Fine crystals of rnartife or octahedral hematite, probably a pseudomoi-ph of magnetite, are especially abundant at Johnson's nn'ne and near Sandy Cove. The mining never proceeded beyond the digging of sliallow trendies in the side of the hills, and these are now lari^elv filled with rubbish; but it is among the hitter that the most intciesting specimens, both of the iron ore and of the associated minerals, are to be had. Among these associated minei'als quartz is \iy far the most abundant, rock crystal being especially connnon and of great variety and beauty. Amel/iyxfs are less common, and are now hard to obtain, but very beautiful specimens were disclosed during tlie opening of the trenches, and are occasionally met with in l)oulders on the hillsides, oi- upon the beaches. With these varieties of (juartz, and othei's such as agate, chalcedony and jaspei*, are often tVmnd one or more of the zeolites, and many specimens have their beaut}' much enhanced by the curious way in wdiich the iron ore, rock crystal or amethyst, the zeolitic ininerals, and, it may be, white or yellow calcite, are commingle'] or disposed in alternating layers. It is of little use to name definite localities for these minerals, other than the mines alluded to above, for the finding of speci- mens is largely a matter of chance and of diligent search. It may, however, be mentioned that the rocks near the light house in Tiverton (Petite Passage) are especially noticeable for the •M«l#aMi|ifai NOTES OS GEOLOGY AND BOTA>JY OF DIGBY NECK — BAILEY. 76 lar^e number and varied coloration of tlie clialcedonic and acjate veins wliich traverse tlieni. These are also found (juite abun- dantly throuoli most of the rocks which border the Bay of Fundy side of the peninsula, and amon^f the blocks with which, in places, this shore is strewn. Anion^^ the zeolites sonie fine specimens, varyini,' in colour from pure white to ^rey, flesh or cream-colour, veil and yellow, as well as of unusual f(M-m, were obtained at Johnson's mine in Waterfoi-d, wdiere also were observed geodes or amyfjdulos of amethyst and chabazite enclosed in jasper of red and yellow tints. At Murphy's Cove, upon the north shore, about eii^ht miles from l)ii2,by, was observed (piite a lar^-e vein of ThompKonlte. This has yielded some beautiful groups of crystals, but it is somewhat difficult of access, and has been to a lar^'e extent softened and decomposed by exposure to the waves. At Mink ('ove, on the south shoi'o I of the Neck, in addition to a vein of maji^'netite, is found a small " vein " crystalline calcite, cai'rying some galena. In general _ 111 ; , oi'es, other than those of iron, are of I'are occurrence I Native copper, it is true, occurs not unfrequently, especially on Briar Ldand, but, as far as known, only in the form of small :^ granules j-cattered through the trappean rock. f JioTANICAL FEATURES. If to the physic.vl and structural characteristics of Digby Neck we a(ly Neck with the mainland, the species found are the same as those of the Annapolis Valle3^ of which pretty full lists have been elsewhere published. The growth of the Horse-Uhestnut is especially iioticeaV)le. Towards the western extremity of the peninsula and upon Long Island, its natural extension, the above zones (excepting the last which is here wholly wanting), tend to blend or to dis- appear, while the increasing amount of low and boggv ground is accompanied by the corresponding augmentation of ericaceou.s plants, such as Vdcciniiims, Ledum, Kahnia, Cassandra, (&c. Potentilla frtdicosa was also noticed hei'e at several points, forming dense clusters. P. anserina was also of common occur- rence. Finall}^ over the surface of peat bogs, especially on Briar Lsland, were to be found the . rotundifolia and D. intermedia), Sarracenia jmrpiirea and the Orchids Habemaria j)sycode.s and H. hlephariglotls. Nowhere have I seen these Orchids so abundant as over the barrens and peat bogs of Digby and Yarmouth Counties. Appended is given a more complete list of the plants observed on Digby Neck. While by no means embracing all the species which ai-e doubtless represented there, it may be useful as a basis both for comparison and for further exploration. i i ft K— BAILEV N'ymqjhaea nt only, in I Koutljern ?pin^ with ary's Bay, Hit is less ratlier hy md their ce of any itincv the le species of which growth of Lnd upon excepting 31' to (lis- n'ound is ricaceous 1 points, )n occur- on Briar ^sera (/>," and the ^J where •ens and bserved i species ful as a ] >JOTES ON GEOLOGY AND BOTANY OF DIGl Y NECK.— iJAU.EY. 80 PLANTS OF DIGBY NECK. Clematis Virginiana, L. Nyniphaea odorata. Ait. Nuphar ad vena, Ait. Sai-racenia purpurea, L. Drosera intermedia. D. longifolia, L. Hypericum ? Silene ? Geranium Robertianum, L. Impatiens fulva, Nutt. I. pallida. Rhus typhinia. L. Potentilla anserina, L. P. fruticosa, L. Rubus Canadensis, L. R. strigosus. R. villosus. Ait. Rosa Carolina, L. Spiraea salicifolia, L. S. totnentosa, L. Trifolium arvense, L. T. Agrarium, L. Aescuhis Hyppocnstannni. Acer Pennsylvanicum, L. A. spicatum, Lam. ►Saxifraga ? Sedum Rhodiola, D. C. Circaea Lutetiaiia, L. EpiloV)ium angustifolium, L. E coloratum, Muhl. Oenothera biennis, L. Cornus Canadensis. C. alternata. Linnaea l)orealis, Grown. Viburnum lantanoides. Galiun\ ? Eupatorium purpureum, L. Aster nemoralis, Ait,, and others. Solidago sp ? S. semperviren.s. Inula Heleniuin, L. Achillea millefolium, L. Leucanthemum vulgare, Lam. Tanacetum vulgare, L. Antennaria margaritacea, R. Br. A. plantaginifolia, Hook. s 81 NOTES OS (JEOLOrjY AND BOTANY OF DIGBY NECK — BAILEY. Cirsiuni arvense, Scop. Leontodon autumnale, L. Onapordon aeanthimn, L. Lappa officinalis. , , Rudbeckea liirta, L. Maruta cotula, D. C. Campanula rotundifolia, L. Vaccininin (,'anadense, Kalm. Monotropa uniHora. Chio^enes hispidula, Tr. Chimaphila unibcUata, Nutt. Plantaj^o major, L. P. maritima, L. Tricntalis Americana, Pursh. Anagallis arvensis, L. Utricularia sp ? Verbascum Thapsus, L. Gerardia purpurea, L. Linaria vulgaris, Mill. Chelone glabra. Mimulus ringens. Veronica sp Brunella vulgaris, L. Scutellaria galericulata, L. Polygonum persicaria, L. Rumex acetosella. Fagus ferruginea, Ait. Corylus rostrata. Betula. Alnus incana, Welld. Salix sps ? Pinus strobus, L. Abies alba ? Muhr. A balsamea. A. Canadensis. Arisaema triphyllum. Tor. Typha latit'olia, L. Sparganium simplex, Hud. Habenaria psycodes. Gray. 11 1 H i^sJ K — BAILEY. " NOTES ON GEOLOGY AND BOTANY OF DIGBY NECK -BAILEY. 82 Spiranthes ? Iri.s versicolor, L. Sisyrinchium Bonriudianum, Ij. Trillium erectuui, L. T. erythrocurpuni, Michx. StreptopiLs roseus. Miclix. Clintonia borealis, Rut'. Smilacina bifolia, Kerr. Eriocanloii beptanojnlare, Witg. Eriophoruiii Note.— No attempt was made to identify Carices. Grasses, Equiscta, Ferns, or Mosses. ! I i.JU. Illu Trans. N. S. Inst. Sci., Vol. IX. Plate IV. SANDY COVE, Looking towards St. Mary's Bay, shewing Vertical Bluffs of Trap. Illiistralinj,' Prof. Bailey's Paper: "(9;/ the Geology and Botany of Digby Neck." ( Illu II '!i Tkans. N. S. Inst. Sci., Vol, IX. Platk V. VIEW AT ISRAEL COVE, PETITE PASSAGE, Shewing Columnar Structure. Illustrating Prof. Bailey's Paper: ''On the Geology and Botany of Digby Neck." .-■..,»L. .^ ^^ -. ,:-.^..Lk. Trans. N. S. Inst. Sn., Vol. I\. Pl.ATK VI. ENTRANCE TO PETITE PASSAGE, NORTH SIDE. Illustrating Prof. Bailey's Paper: " (?« the Geology and Botany of Digby Neck."