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Photographic

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Corporation

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1

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3

32X

1

2

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6

TEA

NI

wil:

H.M.S.

URUID

In the Straits of Belleisle.

SPORT,
TRAVEL, AND ADVENTURE

IN

NEWFOUNDLAND AND THE
WEST INDIES

BY

CAPT. W. 11. KENNEDY, RK

WITH ILLUSTJtATlOXS IIY THE AUTllUK

WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS

EDINBURGH AND LONDON

MDCCCLXXXV

All Rightx reKorvpd

f 5^ '51

267343

j{fn P^t£>i)^'^'

win

©ctitcatelJ

TO

MY WIFE

WHO HAS ASSISTED ME WITH THE COKHECTION
OF THE PROOF-SHEETS OF
THIS VOLUME.

■!?}

mnm

llie No
^VHS wr
BermiK
Tocord I
writer
Newfoii
111 tf!]
my l)ro
1 now 1

PREFACE.

rillllS iiiUTativc of tlic Druid's commission,
extending ov(!r three and a lialf 3'^('ars on
the Nortli American and West India stations,
was written during the passage home l)etwcen
Bermuda and Devonport. It is a simph^
locord of events vhich happened whilst the
writer was senior officer on the coast of
Newfoundland, or cruising in the West Indies.
In l^e hope that it may amuse and interest
my ])rother officers, and sportsmen generally,
I now present it to the puhlic.

W. R. K.

u

I

I

I. \EA^
n. REM

lir. MAG
IV. CRUl
V. CRUJ
VI. THE
Mil
OP
VII. THE
VIII. A DA
l.V. rjROl
X. THE
XI. SECOl
XII. THIRl
XIII. RAND

i

4

OONTENTb.

(MAT.
I.

II.

III.

IV.

V.
VI.

VII.

III.

IX.

x.

XI.

ixu.
cm.

N'EWFOUNDLATJn AND ITS PISIIINC. TREATIKS,

UEMAUKS ON TIIR ISLAND,

MAGISTERIAL DUTIES, ....

CRUISE OF 1880,

CRUISE OF 1881,

THE ARORIOINES OF NEWFOUNDLAND — THI'
MICMACS — TRAPPING — GENERAL DESCRIPTION
OF GAME BIRDS — ANIMALS AND FISH, ETC.,

THE FAUNA OF NEWFOUNDLAND, .

A DAY AMONGST THE GRILSE,

GROUSE-SHOOTING,

THE CARIBOU AND CARIBOU-STALKING, .

SECOND EXPEDITION AFTER CARIBOU — 1880,

THIRD EXPEDITION AFTER CARIBOU,

RANDOM NOTES ON SPORT,

PAOF

1

21
33
42

80

111
118
138
147
ir>()
199
219
239

CONTKNTS.

XIV. UKUMUnA, WKHT INOIKH, ANK TIIK SPANIflll
MAIN, ...••••

XV. HKMAUKS UPON TI.K SOCIAI. AND ItRLIOIOUS
INSTITUTIONS OK HAITI, . ...

XVI. A 0HUI8K AMONOST TIIK 1. i-NDH OKK TIIK

MOSQUITO COAST— TUB BAY ISLANDS— IlKLIZK
AND OHAND OAYMAN,

XVII. SRCOND VISIT TO HAITI, AND CONCLUSION,

2.')!t

:j4:!

'M',:>,

I

i

.M.S. DKl
fl.M.H. DIM
|)KVIL'h FI

Ieaht UAV-
#AnniN(i A

»ALT ON 'I
IJAMI' UN G
ilUCillA.M V

fKiirriNG N

fADDV ANE
four KOYA]
l?OI{T AU I'l
i^N DOMINu

©UKcir OP

ODI.UMBUS'S
(^TALINA !!•
JttOimAN's H,
8Bi;KX CAY,

259

:)4:5

3Ht<

LIST OJ' ILLrSTRATIOiNS.

I.M.S. bUUIl) IN THE STUAITS OF HKKLKISLK,
.iM.H. DUUII) AMONG lCEUEK(iS,
devil's FIOUKKHEAD,
^AST BAY — HAY t)F DKSPAIlt, .
IAI{R1N(; A KIVEH WIT J I NETS,
fiAl.T (>\ THE POUTAGE — HUMUE/t KIVEK,
GAMP ON GRAND PONU, .
BKKJHA.M VOUNG, ....
fKIHTING STAGS, ....
fADDV AND QUASUl,
)UT ROYAL, JAMAICA, .
)RT AU PRINCE, ....
IX DOMINGO, ....

lURCH OF SAN FRANCISCO, SAN DOMINGO,
[(LUMBUS'S HOUSE, SAN D0MlN(iO, .
^TALINA ISLAND, ....

)rgan's head, ....

tKKN CAY, nONACCA ISLAND, .

r.MiK

Froulis/fiecc.
4:,
(i!)
74
130
171
l!)r>
l!).s
23(1
238
281
325
32*)
337
338
368
3(58
37.",

o/ao

\i '-ir

Ik'

li

spoe:

NEWFC

i

[n Febr
sioned f(
.Mslieries
^iMarch si
- Procee
^Bermuda
^"cwfoim
|ier arriv
it earned
^he entra:
Jt may I
^ature of

SPORT, TEAVEL AND ADVENTURE.

CHAPTEli I.

NEWFOUNDLAND AND ITS FISHING TREATIES.

[n February 1879, H.M.S. Druid was commis-
sioned for special service — the protection of the
isheries on the coast of Newfoundland ; and in
[arch she sailed for her destination.

Proceeding first to Madeira, and thence to

Bermuda and Halifax, she reached St John's,

Newfoundland, on the 19th May, announcing

ler arrival l)y a salute to the Governor as she

[teamed between the precipitous cliffs forming

[he entrance to the port. Before going further,

may be as well to give some idea of the
Mature of a naval officer's duties on the New-

A

NEWFOUNDLAND.

lie seei
iaiiecdot
f idea as
he it 0
pv SeotL
Ittot the

ossessic

The 0
ive tho

ea of ^
|o tlie res
n that si

't

fouudlaiid station, mid the reason why the
presence of her Majesty's ships is necessary
in those waters.

There are many jjersons living at home
who know nothing whatever about Newfound-
land ; in fact, it is not saying too much to avev
that fe\v besides naval officers and a sprink-
ling of colonial and diplomatic authorities are
aware that there is such a place. Some muy
have heard of it in connection with the dogs of
that name ; but not one in ten thousand attaches
any value to the island, or has any idea of the
duties of the ships detailed for the protection of Service fo:
the fisheries, or of the people that fish there, f Some i
and what they fish fi^r, and what other nation? »ur diffi
have any fishery rights on its coasts. ^u- Amer

I remember, whilst at Bermuda after our fir>i Ijue tha
fishery season, going over to call at the regi- iandino-s
mental mess. A gallant officer was smoking ]|etween
an'l we entered into conversation. I happeiiei name of
to remark that I had just come from Newfound Harljour,
land, and was on my way to the West Indie> ili the iDrc
*' Oh, ah ! " said he ; " did you touch at ^ it is noto
Helena on your way ? " " No," I replied, " m cumstance
this time ; but we often do ! " With this answi 15,000 cei

ci

i

JS>'

•i

DIM IDEAS ABOUT THE ISLAND.

• the
ssary

liome
buiid-
) avei
priiik-
es are
e may
logs of
btaclies
of the
ttiou of
. there,
nation^

iie regi-
nioking
append
wfouii'i
t Indie-
1 at >
ed, 'Ml.
ls aiis^vi

ilie seemed perfectly satisfied. I mention this
1 anecdote to show hovV very vague is the general
iidea as to the locality of the island, — an island,
|be it observed, identical in size with Ireland
ior Scotland, and one of the most important, if
kot the most wealthy, of her Majesty's colonial
'possessions.

The oljject of the writer of these jDages is to
give those who care to j)eruse them a better
klea of Newfoundland, and to enlighten them as
to the responsibilities of a naval officer's duties
on that station, and as to the importance of the
gervice for which he is detailed.

Some people are under the impression that
our difficulties in Newfoundland waters are with
our American cousins ; Ijut it is not so. It is
true that we have had occasional misunder-
standings with them, and that paltry squabbles
between fishermen have been dignified ])y the
mme of " outrage," as in the case at Long
Harljour, Fortune Bay — an outrage which cost
us the preposterous amount of £15,000, when
it is notorious, to those familiar with the cir-
cumstances, with the people, and the place, that
15,000 cents would have covered the damage.

DIFFICULTIES WITH THE FRENCH.

m

But as a rule, we have nothing to complain of
as regards the Americans. They come to New-
foundland for bait, and pay in cash ; they do
good to the poor half-starved natives of the
south coast, and are heartily welcome.

It is with the French alone that we have any
difficulty ; and I have no hesitation in stating
my belief, that in no j)art of the world are our
relations wdth a foreign country so strained as
they are in Newfoundland. The position is
so anc tnalous, that any intemperate remark or
hasty action on the part of officers of either
nation might compromise his Government and
bring about very serious results.

The question of treaty rights is a compli-
cated one ; it has exercised the minds of many
officials, and will probably be a bone of conten-
tion for many years to come.

To understand properly the situation, one
must go back to the earliest annals of New-
foundland. I will endeavour, as concisely as
possible, to put the case before the reader.

Our difficulties with the French began with the
discovery of the island in the year 1497; and the
value of the fisheries soon attracted the atten-

FRENX'H CLAIMS TO THE ISLAND.

tion of English, French, and Portuguese fisher-
men. The city of St John's was founded about
the year 1578 ; six years afterwards Sir Hum-
phrey Gilbert took possession of the New Isle
in the name of Queen Elizabeth; and in 1621,
Lord Baltimore settled the first English colony
in the Peninsula of Avalon, on the south-east
l>ortion of the island.

Simultaneously with this, the French formed
settlements on the west and south coasts, having
their capital at Placentia. The whole 'coast
still bears witness to their presence, most of
the names of capes, bays, and settlements being
either French, or a ridiculous mixture of French
and nautical English, — as Rencontre, called
Round Counter ; Baie-du-Lievre, Bay de Liver ;
Bale Bois, Bay Bulls, &c.

For the next hundred years there were con-
stant quarrels between the two countries as to
ownership, and as late as the year 1713 it was
a question whether the island belonged to Eng-
land or to France, both countries laying claim
to it.

In that year England concluded the celeljrated
Treaty of L^trecht, by the 13th Article of which

FRENCH SUBJECTS.

I

li

" the Island of NewfoundLand, together with
the adjacent islands, were ceded by France to
Great Britain in full sovereignty."

The treaty provided that " the subjects of
France should be allowed to catch fish, and dry
them on the land between Cape Bonavista and
Cape Riche." The island was at this time a
barren waste, of no value to any one.

In 1763, or fifty years afterwards, these con-
cessions were confirmed by the Treaty of Paris,
and the islands of St Pierre and Miguelon, on
the south coast of Newfoundland, were ceded
to France to serve as a shelter to French fish-
ermen.

These islands are at the present time (1881)
occupied by some 4000 French subjects. The
harbour of St Pierre is the rendezvous for the
French fishing-fieet. This fleet, numbering on
an average 100 vessels, assembles at St Pierre
about April on arrival, and again in September
preparatory to their return to France. They
carry from 3000 to 6000 men,^ who are kept in
good order and are under the supervision of the
French naval officers. The French attach very

1 In 1880 they had 6000 men; 1881, only 3000.

great im
nursery i
subsidisec
and it is
would ha^
By the
ery assign
St John, (
north, des<
It will
Newfound
diagonally
the FrencI
upper port
the whole
Versailles,
fishery ass
Utrecht.
Treaty is s(
own interp]
ing the ex
tlie British
be only a

Not only
milt to tl

FRENCH FISHING BIGHTS.

great importance to this fleet, as it forms the
nursery for their mivy. The fishing is heavily
subsidised by the Government in consequence,
and it is probable that without this subsidy it
would have long since ceased to pay its expenses.

By the Treaty of Versailles in 1783, the fish-
ery assigned to the French commenced at Cape
St John, on the east coast, and passing by the
north, descended by the west coast to Cape Eay.

It will be seen, b}^ looking at the map of
Newfoundland, that the island is thus divided
diagonally from south-west to north-east, and that
the French have the right concurrently to the
upper portion of its coast, or about one-third of
the whole island. By the terms of the Treaty of
Versailles, French fishermen were to enjoy the
fishery assigned to them under the Treaty of
Utrecht. Unfortunately, the wording of the
Treaty is so loose that each nation has put its
own interpretation upon it, — the French claim-
ing the exclusive right to the fishery, whilst
the British Government maintain the right to
be only a concurrent one.

Not only do the French claim the exclusive
right to the fishery, but they also claim to

8

EXTRAVAGANT CLAIMS.

have, if not the actual territorial right to that
part of the coast where they have the right of
fishing, at all events the power to exclude all
others from enjoying the benefits to l)e derived
from the land, such as mining, lumbering, and
agriculture, so far as the coast is concerned ;
also, the right to exclude colonial vessels from
their own harbours, where they assemble for
the purpose of fishing, or for refuge from the
weather. Not content with this, they lay claim
to the salmon-rivers on that part of the coast
between the points indicated, to fish them as
they please — i.e., to bar them, regardless of
the fact that by so doing the rivers are ruined
by exterminating the salmon in the breeding
season. In this way several noble salmon-rivers
have been utterly ruined. The Ponds river,
on the north-west coast, was barred for many
years liy a Frenchman, who built a dam across
it. One year upwards of 500 dead salmon
were picked up above the dam. The fish had
got over this in some way, probably in a
fiood, and Ijeing unable to return to the sea,
had perished. Fortunately, during the winter
the ice carried away this obstacle, and it has

not since

ri\^ers on

J3ay, was

who set

staked u]

fish could

every nav

man told

of salmon

to take as

in the se

Newfound

fiscated ft

smaller sc

myself, bu

The wo:

this subjec

He conclu

glance at t

occn
British em
mother coi
Atlantic p
steaming f
" Its sho

^!

GOVERNOR DARLINGS REMARKS.

9

nut since l)eeu renewed. One of the finest
rivers on the coast, the south-west brook in Hare
J3iiy, was regularly barred by a Frenchman,
who set his net across from 1)ank to l^ank,
staked up al)ove high- water mark, so that no
fish could possil)ly ascend : this in defiance of
every naval ofticer who visited the place. This
man told me he had already taken 58 barrels
of salmon (100 \h. to the barrel), and hoped
to take as many again. This was quite early
in the season of 1879; and yet a wretched
Newfoundlander is punished and his nets con-
fiscated for doing the same thins; on a much
smaller scale. I have taken many such nets
myself, but was unal)le to touch this one.

The words of Governor Darling in 1856 on
this sul^ject are applicable at the present time.
He concludes his letter in these terms : " A
glance at the map shows the position which this
island occupies in the territorial expanse of the
British empire, lying consideraljly nearer to the
mother country than any other of her trans-
Atlantic possessions — distant oidy six days'
steaming from the British Isles.

" Its shores abound in fine harbours, and its

10

EFFORTS TO PREVENT DISPUTES.

i

suiTounding seas with the sources of wealth,
whilst its inhabitants are a manly and energetic
race.

*' Yet the political position of a dependenciy
thus ftwoured is such, that a foreign State en-
joys a right to the use of at least one half of its
line of coast, and avails itself of the right in
such a manner as effectually to close that por-
tion of the coast for all practical purposes
against the people of the State to which the
soil of the colony belongs."

To go back to the treaties. To pi-event dis-
putes between the fishermen of the two nations,
the British Government undertook to take the
most positive measures for preventing British
subjects from interrupting in any manner the
fishery of tlie French during their temporary
exercise of it ; and in 1786 orders were given to
prevent British subjects as far as possible from
fishing within the French limits.

In 1788 an Act was passed by the British
Parliament empowering the Crown in Council
to give orders, if necessary, " to remove all
British fishery-works within the French limits ;"
but this Act was annulled l)v the war of 1793.

TREATIES.

11

By the Treaty of Paris, 1814, British Hul)ject8
were excluded from the. French limits, as they
had been previous to the war; Imt during the
interval between 1793 and 1814, the French
having been themselves excluded from the fisli-
eries, many British ijubjects had settled upon
that part of the coast, so that when the French
resumed their fishery an entirely new state of
things existed — the population had increased
and had monopolised the fishing for themselves.

Previous to the war, British cruisers regularly
visited the coast of Newfoundland and kept the
peace between the fishermen ; but after the year
1815, they appear not to have done so until the
year 1841. when the French had encroached
ui)on British fishery-ground as far as Belleisle
and the coast of Labrador. They were then
forced to keep to their own limits.

During this time the Newfoundlanders were
never ordered by the Government to remove
from French limits, but they were practically
excluded by the French from fishing on the
uorth-east part of the island, and on the west
were only permitted to do so on suft'erance.

Many attempts at negotiation, with a view to

12

FUTILE NEGOTIATIONS.

the Hettlemeiit of this much-vexed French shore
question, have l^een miide from time to time, but
as yet without any result.

In 1857 a convention was agreed to between
the two Governments ; but owing to its rejection
by the Newfoundlanders, it never became law.

In Paris, in 1860, the Commissioners on both
sides agreed to certain articles, which did not,
however, meet with the approval of their re-
spective Governments.

In 18GG and 1808 neojotiations w^re again set
on foot, but fell through; and in 1875 an attempt
was made to come to some understanding on
the sul)ject, with a like result.^

Any one who has taken the trouble to follow
the various treaties bearing on the subject up to
this time, can form their own opinion as to the
claims of the French to an exclusive right to
the fishery between certain limits. That they
have strong claims and undoubted rights, there
can be no disputing ; l)ut that they have an
exclusive right, I deny. Unfortunately the

^ Negotiations are now being carried on between the respec-
tive Governments, with what result remains to be seen.

FRENCH CLAIMS CONSIDERKD.

13

wording of the treaty gives them what practi-
cally amouuts to an exclusive right, iiiasmuch
i\H " British fishermen jire not to obstruct or
inii)ede the French on that part of the coast
where they have the right to fish, nor l)y their
competition to interfere with or interrupt them
on such i)arts of the coast as they actually
occupy and use for the prosecution of the
fishery."

What right does that give the French to fish
in any river above high-water mark ? There is
not one word in the treaty giving them such
right.

By the wording of the treaties British fisher-
men have the right to fish concurrent! ij^ with the
French, i)yovided that theij do not interfere ivith
them ; but therein lies the difficulty. It is quite
impossible, whatever may be said to the con-
trary, for two people to fish in the same water
without one being able to claim, however un-
justly, that the other is interfering with him.
For instance, a Newfoundlander sets his nets in
the open sea; if he catches fish, a Frenchman

^ See French Dictionary, — concurrent meaning, co-operation,
unanimous, agreeing, qui s'accorde avec ; united — mini.

"1
1

^11:

W'

14 INJUSTICE TO THE NEWFOUNDLANDERS.

comes along, sets his net, and says the New-
foundlander is interfering with him. This is
constantly done ; and as the law now stands, the
wretched Newfoundlander, who lives upon the
spot, has to make way for the foreigner, wIkj
comes out for his own benefit, pays no taxes,
and takes away his earnings to his own country.
It is idle to talk about not interfering as the
law stands now. The fact is, the letter of the
treaty is enforced, whilst the spirit of it is
ignored ; and it is quite impossible to avoid
collisions, which must and will occur l^etween
the fishermen of the nations while such an
anomalous state of affairs is permitted. Indeed
it says much for the Newfoundlanders that very
serious outbreaks have not already taken place,
as they assuredly will, sooner or later. The
Newfoundlander has no choice : he finds himi^elf
on the spot, as his parents were before him ; he
cannot go away, because he has nowhere to go
to ; he cannot dig the ground and live by agri-
culture, because he lives upon a rock^ — besides,
the French would object. He must therefore
fish to support his family, or starve ; and the

• The north-east coast is luisuited for agriculture.

INJU!

P'rench o

It is not

can affoK

to the La

The Fj-

business \

remain o]

the Frenc

tlements (

already si

from 1793

French we

foundland

is it likely

were not

that we w

French, ai

war was o

these place

so far from

fraternised

remain, ap

property d

paying the:

The nort

INJUSTICE TO THE NEWFOUNDLANDERS.

15

French object to liis fishing. What is he to do ?
It is not every one of these poor fellows who
can afford to own or charter a schooner and go
to the Lal)rador to fish, as some do.

The Fj-ench say the Newfoundlander has no
business where he is — that he is only allowed to
remain on sufierance ; but as a matter of fact,
the French themselves are answerable for the set-
tlements on that part of the coast. It has been
already shown that for twenty-one years — i.e.,
from 1793 to 1815 — whilst we were at war, the
French were excluded from the coasts of New-
foundland : it is pity they ever returned ! Well,
is it likely that during all these years our i^eople
were not to be allowed to settle on the coast ?
that we were to keep the place warm for the
French, and hand it over to them directly the
war was over ? The French came back, found
these places settled, — what did they do ? Why,
so far from wishing to remove the English, they
fraternised with them, and encouraged them to
remain, appointing them " guardians " of their
property during their al)sence in France, and
paying them lor so doing on their return.

The north-east and west coasts of Newfound-

'i

16

NEGLECT OF THE NEWFOUNDLANDERS.

OBi

land now (1880) number 20,000 inhabitants,
and these people are expected to exist as best
they can. They are not to fish, for fear of
interfering with the French ; they are not to till
the ground near the coast, because the French
claim to have the right to prevent them ; they
are not to mine, because the French claim the
strand for half a mile from the beach — by what
authority, I have never yet been able to dis-
cover.

The Colonial Government, until lately, have
not been permitted to appoint magistrates ou
that part of the coast where the French have
the right of fishing, although it is their own
country, because the French objected ! Conse-
quently these poor wretches, the Newfoundland
fishermen, dwell without law, and Avithout
doctors except such as a man-of-war can give
them.

From May till October this sort of thing goes
on ; from October till May the country is a
frozen zone. The fiict is, the wretched Xew-
foundlanders are slaves, and half-starved ones
— oppressed by the peddling storekeepers on
the coast, bullied by foreigners, forijidden to

catch th
them in
wlio are
help the]
folk^ wh(
told the;
mockery.
— they b
apply to
to be abc
more suit
Moreov
French fis
udvancemi
was conte
way from
west coast
cause the
at 8t Gee
and lead
for the san
could in
fishery op(
lobster-can:
the west co

OBSTRUCTION BY FRENCH INTERESTS.

17

catch the fish with which God has provided
them in plenty. Even the very naval officers
who are sent to protect them are unable to
help them ; and yet these poor trampled-down
fulk^ who never see a coin of the realm, are
told they are British subjects. It's an idle
mockery. The treaties are practically obsolete
— they belong to a bygone age, and do not
apply to present circumstances. They ought
to be abolished, or at least replaced by others
more suitable to the times.

Moreover, to show to what an extent the
French fishery claims have militated against the
advancement of the colony, I may mention it
was contemplated at one time to build a rail-
way from the capital to St George's Bay, on the
west coast ; but the project was abandoned, be-
cause the French objected to the terminus l)eing
at St George's Bay 1 Again, a valuable silver
and lead mine at Port au Port was abandoned
for the same cause, although the working of it
could in no way interfere with the F'rench
fishery operations. For the last few years a
lol)ster-canning establishment at St Barbe's, on
the west coast, has been doing a good Ijusiness,

B

18

" DOG IN THE MANGER " POLICY.

ctiiiiiiiig 5000 loljsters a-day, and employ inn
some forty men and girls, who would otherwise
be destitute. Every year the French have pro-
tested against this establishment, although they
are not allowed to fish for lol)sters themselves ;
nor does the establishment interfere in any way
with the French fishery, seeing that their vessels
never go to St Barbe's. Similar protests of this
" dog in the manger " kind have been regularly
lodged against two other loljster-canning estal)-
lishments at Port an Port. A copper-mine at
Mings Bight, also on the French limits, has
been a fruitful cause of complaint for several
years past. None of these industries have, how-
ever, l)een suspended, nor are they likely to be
so ; ^ the French protesting against all such oper-
ations on principle — not that they interfere with
their fishermen, but on the ground that they
have no lousiness to exist ! The French know
perfectly well that the rigid enforcement of the
treaties can never be insisted on, for such an
arrano-ement would be at least as inconvenient
to themselves as to us. If such an idea were

1 It is hoped that the negotiations now pending will arrive at j
a satisfactory arrangement on these points.

contempt
all the
Frencli o
country i
This is, o:
each side
ments on
i\Iuch h
regard to
which ha
This setth
numerous
British an
French sa
fishery at
fisher}-. '
value to it
seldom go
quantity ii
their fisher^
that the se
aud they In
Nipplies to
hvhich plac(
i vessels. Tl

,ST GEORGES BAY SETTLEMENT.

19

contemplated, we sliould insist on our side that
all the fixed establishments belonging to the
French on the coast be also removed, and the
country restored to its original primitive state.
This is, of course, out of the question. Hence
each side is, so to speak, winking at infringe-
ments on the part of the other.

Much has been said from time to time with
regard to the settlement at St George's Bay,
which has grown to considerable dimensions.
This settlement has sprung up in defiance of
numerous proclamations on the part of the
British authorities in Newfoundland, and the
French say it has no business there. The
fishery at St George's is simply a herring-
fishery. The French profess to attach great
value to it ; but as a matter of fact, their vessels
seldom go there, as they can get bait in any
quantity in the immediate neighbourhood for
their fishery at Eed Island. It is well known
that the settlement is a convenience to them,
and they have no wish to disturb it. The same
applies to the Bay of Islands and Bonne Bay,
which places are seldom visited by French
vessels. The poor settlers living in these bays

t n

20 COURTESY OF FRENCH NAVAL OFFICERS.

exist solely by the lierring-fishery — a failure of
whicli means starvation to them. The French
claim that these unfortunates have no business
to exist, and that even the lumber trade at the
head of the Bay of Islands, forty miles from the
sea, is illegal.

True it is that French naval officers are fully
alive to the absurdity of these pretensions, whicli
they never seek to enforce ; and I willingly bear
testimony to the courteous manner in which
they invariably carry out their duties. Were it
not for that, it would be impossible to avoid
frequent collisions : the avoidance of them is
only obtained by the tact and temper of the
individual officers in carrying out duties whicli
are distasteful in themselves, and in endeavour-
ing to fulfil treaties the terms of which are no j
longer possible, nor consistent with common-
sense.

i

21

CHAPTER 11.

REMARKS ON THE ISLAND.

The Island of Newfoundland is, roughly sj^eak-
iug, in the shape of a triangle, each side of which
may be considered to be 400 miles long ; but
this by no means gives an idea of the coast-line,
owing to the immense immber of bays, creeks,
and arms of the sea by which it is intersected.
All these shores have to be visited several times
during the season ; besides which, there are about
1000 miles of the coast of Labrador, also be-
longing to Newfoundland.

The Canadian boundary of Labrador strikes
the snlt w^ater at Blanc-Sablon, west of the
Straits of Belleisle. To do this work three ships
are usually employed : a corvette — the senior
officer's ship — a sloop, and a gunboat.

22 SHIPS ON THE NEWFOUNDLAND STATION.

i

In 1879, the Druid, Plover, and Zephyr were
the ships; in 1880, the Druid, Fhimingo, and
Contest; and in 1881, the Druid, Fantome, and
Contest. These ships assemble at St John's in
time for the Queen's birthday ; and after a short
spell, they disjDerse on their several cruises, the
route for each ship being selected by the senior
officer. In August they generally meet at St
John's to refit and report progress, and then
start on a second cruise, returning finally in
October, when they all join the Admiral at
Halifax, preparatory to taking their winter's
flight to the West Indies. In this way the
coast is pretty thoroughly done — each ship visit- I
ing the princij^al places at least twice ; but to j
visit every little harbour and settlement round
this extensive beat, would require more ships
and more time. As there are but few magis-
trates or doctors round the coast, or were not
up to 1881, the captains and senior lieuten-
ants of her Majesty's ships are sworn in as
justices of the peace for the colony, and the
ships' surgeons are supplied with drugs and 1
receive a stipend out of the colonial ex-
chequer. In this way the colony gets a good

CLIMATE.

23

deal of legul and medical work done at a very
ti'iiiing cost.

I have already, in a little pamphlet pul)li8lied
in the colony, described the climate of New-
foundland as second to none in point of salu-
brity, and I can fancy a smile upon the iace of
my naval friends at this audacious assertion ;
but it is a just one nevertheless.

The objection to the climate is, that there is
no sjaing : with one bound the summer is upon
one ; but that is not till the end of June or
beginning of July, although the snow mostly
disappears in May. From that time till the
middle of October, when the equinoctial gales
may be expected, the temperature is delightful,
especially on the west coast.

The climate of the interior is altogether dif-
ferent from that on the coast ; one has only to go
a few miles up any of the numerous fiords which
intersect the shores to be aware of this. The
north and east coasts are more bleak than the
south and west, being exposed to the bitter
north-east winds and the full fury of the At-
lantic storms ; added to which the icebergs
are all on this side, being brought down by the

24

FOGS.

11

tn

aretif current from the north, and are either
deflected into the Straits of Belleisle or ground-
ed on the banks — others, meeting the warm
waters of the Gulf Stream, are melted, and are
returned to the coast in the shape of fog.

Fogs are consequently worse in summer,
and the south and south-east coasts are fre-
quently enveloped in them for weeks together,
rendering navigation j^articularly dangerous.
Indeed it may l)e said that whenever the wind
blows in towards the land it is sure to bring
fog. Sometimes the fog appears in the oiling
like a widi, when the harbour is perfectly clear ;
and ships may be seen emerging from the fog,
or disappearing into it, in a most mysterious
manner. These fogs ajjpear to be cut off at
Cape Ray on the west, and Cape Bonavista on
the east coast, for they seldom penetrate beyond
those points, although one cannot depend on
this ])eing the case, as we once very nearly dis-
covered to our cost. In the interior fogs seldom
prevail, and do not last long.

It may seem beyond the province of a sailor
to offer his opinion on such matters as soil and
agriculture, &c., subjects he cannot be expected

INTERIOR.

25

to know much jiltout; but on the other hand,
who is there that does know anything about
Newfbundhuid ? 'I'he interior is but little known,
except to a few enterprising explorers and ardent
sportsmen ; and in all proljability there is hardly
a Newfoundlander who has had such opi)or-
tunities of judging of the capabilities of his
country as those whose professional duties have
taken them round the coast for three successive
seasons, ;ind whose sporting tastes have taken
them into the interior as many times.

It is custimiary to speak of Newfoundland as
a barren, rocky, iron-bound coast — and so it is :
but strike inland from almost any side or point
you may select, — such as Smith Sound, Trinity
Bay, Clode Sound, Bonavista Bay, the Gander
River, or the valley of the Exploits River, all
on the east coast ; or the Codro}' Valley, the
Humber River, Bonne Bay, the Bay of Islands
on the west ; or in fact along the valley of any
river in the island, — and soil of excellent quality,
and fine timber in any quantity, will be met
with. I speak from experience, having visited
all these places. Many of them are uninhabited,
land it is a fact that there are no inhabitants

26

SALMON- RIVERH.

at any diHtaiice from the ('ojiHt, except a few
settler.s on the Codroy and Huml)er rivers; l>ut
whenever, as at these two places, agriculture
has been attempted, most excellent results have
been obtained.

The interior of the island, with the exception
of the high table-land or " barrens," is densely
wooded, and only requires clearing and draining
to be capable of maintaining a very (considerable
p( »pulation.

There are hundreds of fine salmon-rivers in
the island, all holding salmon and large trout,
besides smaller brooks too numerous to men-
tion ; and the coast of Labrador has many noble
streams. But I shall have something to say on
the subject of sport in another place.

Our first cruise round the island in 1879 lacks
any sjjecial interest, excepting that it initiated
us into the style of work to be done, the dan-
gers to be met with in the shape of fogs, ice-
bergs, currents, and unknown rocks, &c.

Early in the season we visited Rigoulette, a
station belonging to the Hudson Bay C*om-
pany in Hamilton Inlet, coast of Labrador,
where the people were reported to be starving.

SIR JOHN GLOVEK.

27

Sir John Glover, the energetic Governor of
the colony, l)eing (le.sinms of judging for liini-
self as to the truth of this statement, enil)arkeil
in the Druid. We also shipped a cargo of pork
and fiour for the use of the poor settlers of that
lonely and inliosjtitable region. Having nar-
rowly escaped a sunken rock in the centre of
the channel leading to Rigoulette, we anchored
off the settlement, and devoted several days to
the investigation of the claims, wliicli we found
t<> be based on fiict, although the circumstances
had been exaggerated. We afterwards visited
Cartwright, another settlement of the Hudson
Bay Company, and returned to St John's after
an absence of ten days.

Sir John Glover, during his term of governor-
ship, made several expeditions into the interior
I with a laudable desire to acquaint himself by
personal observation of the capabilities of the
country which he governed ; and a large island
in Grand Lake is called after him, in remem-
jbrance of one of these visits.

The ''Truck'' System. — Not the least among
[the grievances of the fishermen is the "truck"
lor barter system, which prevails in Newfound-

28

THE " TRUCK " SYSTPLM.

'..it, i

land. My first impressions on this subject nicay
be gathered from the following cases, which were
l)rought to my notice. Whilst lying in the
harbour of La Poilc, a fisherman complained
that his boat had been taken from him by one
of the so-called " merchants " of that place, iu
consequence of a claim for goods supplied : the
fisherman was thereby prevented from earning
his living in the usual way. This lia23i;)ened iu
the month of May, and he was ordered to attend
the Supreme Court held at Channel on the 14tb
Auo-ust. The man stated that the claim ao^ainst
him was not a just one, and preferred charges
ao-ainst the merchant. He also stated that he
had no means to find his way to Channel, a port
some way to tlie eastward, nor to obtain any
legal assistance, and that he despaired of obtain-
ing any redress whatever.

In consequence of this, I summoned the mer-
chant to appear, and inquired into the case, iu!
hopes that some arrangement could be made!
bearing less harshly upon the fisherman, as it
seemed unjust that he should be deprived of hisi
living before ever the case was heard. I found,
however, that the order had emanated from the I

THE " TRUCK " SYSTEM.

29

sherift' at Port au Basque, so I was reluctantly
prevented from interfering.

This case was but one of many of a similar
nature which constantly turned up, and is be-
gotten by the pernicious system pursued along
the coast by the merchants,' who pay the fish-
ermen in kind in lieu of cash ; or if money
payment is made, the full value is not given,
the fisherman having the option of accepting
16s. or 18s. for £1, or taking goods instead.
The result of this plan is, that the men never
have any money, and are always in debt.

I conversed with many fishermen along the
coast on this subject, and it was always the
same story. One man said, " I catch from 200
to 500 lobsters everyday, worth 30s. a thousand,
and I get in exchange about 10s. worth of goods."

Another said, " This ' truck ' system is ruining
us, sir ; we can never save for our old age, and
we are no better off, after forty or fifty years
of toil, than W'hen we began." Another told me
he earned nominally £150 per annum, and if

' Ry the term mercliaut, I allude to the )?mall inurchants or
storekeepers along the coast who barter their goods iii exchange
for lii^li.

•

f

r .

iPi ;i

30

INDEBTEDNESS OF THE FISHERMEN.

lie had the money would do well. An old set- J
tier, upwards of sixty years in the colony — a
most respectable sober man — assured me that
it was with the utmost difficulty he could feed
and clothe his family ; that he never had any
money; and that now, owing to two bad seasons,
he was in debt for the first time in his life.
They all said, " It is of no use for us poor fishermen
to complain : there is no one to take our part."
I represented this matter in the proper quarter,
l)ut without any result ; and I fear it is not
likely to be rectified until the fishermen are
better educated, and more alive to their owu
interests. If they could be induced to co-oper-
ate together, and purchase their j^rovisions and
clothing from respectable houses in St John's, it
would be better for them ; and I believe that
stores on the co-operative system, set up at the
principal places along the coast, would be a pay-

ing concern.

That this is a grievance of lono- standino;
seems very clear — not only from the reports of
naval officers, but it is mentioned as far back as
the year 1800, in Pedley's history of the colony,
wherein it is said : " To remedy this evil will be

POSSIBLE REMEDY.

31

110 easy matter to devise; ])ut one point seems
clear, and this is, that unless these poor wretches
emigrate, they must starve — for how can it be
otherwise while the merchant has the ])ower of
setting his own price on the supplies issued to
the fishermen, and on the fish which they catch
for him? Thus we see a set of unfortunate
beings, working like slaves, and hazarding their
lives, when, at the expiration of their term, how-
ever successful their exertions, they find them-
selves not only without gain, but so deeply in-
debted, as forces them to emigrate or drives them
to despair." But how can they emigrate ? They
know not where to .go, and have no means if
they did know. Born and bred on that barren
coast, they know of no other existence ; and
they live and die hopelessly in debt.

If the Colonial Government were to insist
that the fishermen Ije paid in cash, they would be
able to purchase what they want, either on the
spot or from St John's, and be aljle to lay by a
little for the winter, when they are unable to work.

Under the " truck " system they aio ground
down and half starved, haviiio- often nothino;
l)iit *orn-cake and molasses to eat in the winter,

'' II

32

CASH PAYMENTS A REMEDY.

and not sufficient clothing to enable them to
withstand the rigorous climate at that season.

One of the many evils arising from this credit
system is the increase of pauperism in the coun-
try, entailing a large expenditure from the colo-
nial revenues.

On the part of the merchants it is claimed
that they are obliged to charge highly on their
goods, on account of the risks they run and l3a(l
debts. It would be, consequentl}", to their in-
terests to pay the men in cash ; and I cannot
believe they would object to do so. But whether
they do so or not, the fisherman is clearly en-
titled to the money, if he p^-efers it. An official,
paid by the Government, to assist those who are \
unable to pay for legal advice, would also be a
great boon ; for what chance does a poor unedu-
cated man stand against one who has means and I
council at his disposal ?

I feel sure that should some remedy in the!
direction I have suggested be adopted, it would
not only be of the greatest Ijlessing to the
fishermen, but of permanent advantage to the
colony by reason of the additional energy in-
fused into the whole fishing community.

hvas ignoran

33

CHAPTER III.

MAGISTERIAL DUTIES.

Some of the cases referred to us in our magis-
I teiial capacity were most amusing. One poor
i fellow brought his account with the merchant on
board to be examined, because he, being unable
to read or write, could make nothing of it, nor
could he understand how it was he owed the
" merchant " sixty dollars, when, by his reckon-
ing, the balance should have been in his favour.
A o-lance at the book showed the delio'htful
simplicity of the transaction. On the one page

I was credit John 60 dols., and on the next,

j the balance was credit & Co. GO dols. I

interviewed that merchant forthwith, and asked
him to be good enough to explain the case, as I
[was ignorant of l)usiness matters, and concluded

c

«■

34

THE MAGISTRATE IN THE RIVER.

1 rj

that that was the meaning of book-keeping by
double entry! He assured me that that was
his way of doing business. I remarked that
in England we called it swindling ; and so we
parted, he apparently hurt that any reflection
should be cast upon his character ! This indi-
vidual failed soon afterwards. I fear he was too
honest for the times.

A few more cases, taken at random, will show
the style of legal (?) knowledge required by the
captain of a man-of-war. Whilst fishing in the
Forteau river, coast of Labrador, an old settler
came up, and after a good deal of circumlocu-
tion, informed me that he had a complaint to
make against a servant -girl in his employ.
At this time I was up to my middle in thej
river, so he shouted out his grievance fromj
the bank. The stream was swift, and the
trout were "on the rise," so the conversation I
was somewhat disjointed, and occasionally!
rather mixed.

Mr B. (at the top of his voice). " Serious |
charge to make, sir. Servant gal "

" Well, tell us all about it. What's her name?]
State the case."

RESULT OF COLD WEATHER.

35

" Well, sir, you'd hardly believe it wlieu I
tell you that the gal "

" By Jove, a rise ! I have him ! Run down
cuul put the net under that fish. Thanks. What
a beauty ! You were saying that "

Mr B. " Yes, sir, 1 was a-going to say that
the gal "

" Ah 1 another rise. Run down to that stone
and you'll get him ; a good four-pounder ! Go
on with the case, M]' B."

" Well, sir, you see the weather is very cold
here in the winter-time, and my poor boy is
young and innocent like, and -"

" Oh, what a whopper ! Quick, Mr B. ; take
the gaff. Well done ! Why, he is the biggest of
the lot ! You were saying, Mr B., that your
boy "

" Yes, sir, a fine boy ; and she wants to swear
it on my son, sir : it's shameful."

" So it is, Mr B. ; but pressure of business

I prevents me from investigating the case any

further at present — so bring the parties on

board the Druid to-morrow morning. Good

jday."

Accordingly, the next day the whole family

j;iiiiii

36

A CASE IN (JOW BAY.

ai)i)eared on board — father, mother, two sons,
and the defendant, but who, it seemed to me,
was in reality the aggrieved party. The case
was investigated in my cabin at great length,
The woman, who, as they say in the papers, " was
of prepossessing appearance," said that she ex-
pected one of the brothers to marry her, and
she didn't care which ! Neither of the brothers
seemed to see it, so I settled the matter to the |
satisfaction of all parties, and they left the ship
together. The most amusing part of the stoiv
is, that on calling at Forteau the following yeiir,
we found the woman duly established in the
family, the child adopted, and both brothoi>
willing to marry the girl. 80 we left them.
A man belonging to Cow Bay complaineii
that his wife, his family, and his feather-hei;
had been stolen from him, and that on calliiis:
for his property he was set upon and beaten hy
all the party, including his wife and the en
respondent. He considered that he had beei.
hardly used, but said he didn't care so mud
about the wife and family so long as he gn
back his feather-l)ed, upon which he place'
great store. I regretted much that the state 1

the weat
Cow Bay

but I co:
ought cer
bed, and ]
fur the lo
believe, \
The ne
at Trout
been burn
,^ by three
I to it, not
|moned all
f Druid. Tlj
I nothing of
under the s
i was held ; t
^V. Worke
I him that if
< ourt he wc
I A. confessec
Chouse. Dis
iSeiitry's chai
'B. that A.
tiieu confes.=

ARSON.

37

the weather prevented me from putting into
Cow Bay to investigate this interesting case ;
but I conveyed to the co-respondent that he
ought certainly to give the poor fellow back his
bed, and make some small compensation to him
for the loss of his wife and children. This, I
believe, was done.

The next was a case of arson. A man
at Trout river told me that his house had
been burnt down, he had reason to believe,
by three brothers ; but he could not swear
to it, not having seen them do it. Sum-
moned all the parties to appear on board the
Druid. The three brothers all swore tlie}^ knew
nothing of the transaction. Placed them all
under the sentry's charge, while a consultation
was held ; then called in one, whom wx will call
A. Worked upon xV.'s feelings by informing
lliim that if the case came before the Supreme
ICourt he would probably be hanged ; whereupon
L. confessed having assisted to set fire to the
liouse. Dismissed A. and put him under the
entry's charge separately, and had in B. Told
J. that A. had turned Queen's evidence. B.
then confessed. Put him under the sentry's

l-V^

■ t

r.

38

COMPOUNDING A FELONY.

"1

roliliililliii

"'Hi

r

6 ,y:>^

charge, and liatl in C, who thereupon made a
clean breast of it. Ordered the three brothers
to pay ten dollars apiece and rebuild the
house. All the parties signed a paper agreeing |
to this decision, and left the shij:) together
When we came Ijy the next year, all four were ^
living together in the same house in perfect ]
harmony.

I was informed afterwards that in settling
this case I had compounded a felony !

The next case was one of forgery, and hap-
pened at the Bay of Islands. One man we will
call A., was owed by another, B., seventy dollars,
and being unable to get the money, had re-
strained a cargo of lumber belonging to B., and
to expedite the payment, forged B.'s name for
the amount due. The draft was presented, but
not cashed. Each party sued the other, and
the case was investigated on the quarter-deck.
A. said he didn't know anything about forgery,
but that was the way they did business in the
Bay.

I compromised the matter by causing A. to
deliver up the lumber and consider the debt
cancelled, on condition that no further proceed-

CONTEMPT OF COURT.

39

iiigs slioiild be takt'ii l)y B. for fin'giiig his name.
The parties shook hands, and left the ship in
the same boat. On my reporting this case at St
John's, I was threatened with legal proceedings
for contempt of court ! Nothing, however, came
of it. A story was current in the colony of a
cai)tain of one of H.M.'s ships, failing to unravel
a complicated case where there was a deal of
hard swearing on both sides, ordering the par-
ties to appear on board his ship at ten o'clock
the next morning, by which time he and his
ship were forty miles away ! This story, al-
though doubtless a libel, is probably founded
on fact.

Many of the cases referred to the captains of
H.^I.'s ships are disputes about land, and it is not
always easy to decide who has the prior claim.
I was often engaged a whole day endeavouring
to arrive at an amicable understanding. As a
matter of fact, we had no power to parcel out
the land ; but it was better to settle the ques-
tion one way or the other in the absence of all
constituted authority, and I am Ijound to say
that the poor fellows were always satisfied with
the decision arrived at on the quarter-deck.

40

COMMON-SENSE JUSTICE.

They crowded on board with their comphiints,
often of a paltry character, but feeling sure of
a patient and syni])athetic hearing from the
" skipper," and knowing that whether they lost
or won their case, there were no legal expenses
to pay. And I cannot hel^ inking that the
rough-and-ready justice meted out to them on
board ship was best suited to their wants ; and
I have no doubt that if they didn't always get
law, they had the benefit of an impartial judge,
and generally got common-sense.

Our doctor's exj^eriences were also varied and
amusing. People would come on board for
medicine, having nothing whatever the matter
with them, but merely b< se it was cheap:
one man wanted a bottle ^j. stuff because he
had had a cold nine months before ! For these
simple folk a bottle of distilled water, coloured,
and a box of bread-pills, were administered with
beneficial results, and they went away happy.
The w^omen were always wanting something.
As a rule, they suff'ered from indigestion and
dyspepsia, caused by drinking an inordinate
quantity of tea, and the men from the abuse
of strong tobacco.

Ill

WANT OF GOOD FARE.

41

Both classes, and especially the women and
children, suffer from want of good fare, and
often insufficient clothing and hard work. The
total absence of milk and vegetables is very con-
ducive to cutaneous diseases, especially when
the substitutes are fish, salt pork, and molasses.

■.'tl

"If

42

CHAPTER IV.

CRUISE OF 1880.

I SHALL now borrow a leaf out of my journal,
and ask tlje reader to accompany me on a
cruise round the coast in the Druid, so as to
give an idea of the sort of work done by her
Majestj^'s ships whilst circumnavigating the
fog-enveloped shores of Newfoundland.

During the seasons of 1879-80 and 1881-82,
from j\Iay till the middle of October, the Druid
and her consorts were constantly engaged on this
service. One year's work was very like another,
and the places we visited were often the same ;
nevertheless there may be something of interest
to relate in each season's cruise.

I shall now proceed with the cruise of the
Druid in 1880.

TRINITY HARBOUR.

43

Left St John's for Harbour Grace. A thriving,
pretty town, with clean streets, well laicl-out.
Several fine brigs belonging to Mr Munn in
port, but the schooners of the fishery fleet are
all away at the Labrador. Caplin ^ have struck
in in large numbers, and are being used for
manure.

Trinity Har])our, one of the finest and most
picturesque harbours on the coast, capable of
containing the whole British navy. The best
anchorage is off the town, but there are many
others equally secure. On my arrival I found
the river in north-west arm completely barred l)y
a mill-dam, thereby preventing salmon and trout
ascending. Sent for the owner, who said he
was unaware of the law. Told him the law, and
communicated with Mr Cole, magistrate, who
informed me that there were no less than thirty-
six rivers in Trinity Bay barred in like manner.
Telegraphed to the Governor and offered to
lilow up all the mill-dams with torpedoes ; also
wrote to him officially on the subject. The
fishermen complain also that sawdust and rulj-

!■•>

' A small fish of tlie herrin-^ tribe somewhat larger *,hau
sanline.

44

BONAVISTA BAY.

ii

bisli are thrown into the aea from the mill-dams,
and that the salmon and herring fishery is
destroyed in consequence. There are several
clergymen, two magistrates, and a doctor at
this place.

Left Trinity June 25tli ; blowing hard from
north, with snow-squalls. Passed Catalina about
noon ; weather too bad to go in. iVll the places
about here are named by the Spaniards or Portu-
guese. A dense fog came on at 1 p.m. , accompanied
by hard squalls and snow ; shaped course to pass
between Cape Bonavista and Old Harry Eocks,
but the current sent us nearly on to Gull Island,
which we sighted through the fog when only
300 yards off 1 Passed through the channel into
Bonavista Bay, which we found to be full of
field-ice, and an enormous iceberg over 300
feet high. Steamed up to the latter and fired
a shell at it. Lay to by the berg till day-
light, and then proceeded dead slow, the fog
being very thick. JNLade out Long Island at
6 A.M., and anchored in Goose Bay. This place
has never been visited by a man-of-war. The
popuhition has increased immensely of late
years, and there are now no less than 300

46

GOOSE ARM.

■ilj!

families, who live by fishing, lumbering, and
agriculture, the soil being very rich. There is
no doctor or magistrate, but a clergyman of
the Church of England lives at a place called
Devil's Hole ! across the Bay. Most of the
people are away at the Labi dor fishing. The
river at the head of the south-west arm has
been completely ruined by wholesale barring,
and the salmon have left in disgust. This year, .^
for the first time, it was not barred, as there was
nothing left to catch. Served out the usual
proclamations relative to barring rivers and
illegal fishing, also that relating to the capture
of wolves. Left Goose Arm for Clode Sound
at daylight, June 28tli : a lovely morning, not
a breath of air stirring, not a ripple upon the
surface of the water, which reflected all objects
like a mirror, the sky included. Shag Island
appeared like a lovely gem upon the water.
Summer has apparently burst upon us at a
bound, and wild strawberries and violets are
plentiful along the banks of the rivers. It
seems a pity that these fine anchorages are of
so little use : they are completely landlocked,
and capable of sheltering any number of craft ;

the wati

quite di;

fogs and

We pj

Sound al

delightfu

JMiddle I

of the ser

the villas

scenery is

ous. Hi]

to ^heir s

either sid

Sound — V

dentl}'- ()1

capable oi

fine salm^

bay — one

north-wesi

for five rr

where son

had stack

The south

shallow, w

see. For i

CLODE SOUND.

47

the water is always smooth, and the climate
quite different from what it is outside, where
fogs and icebergs are the prominent features.

We passed the narrows leading into Clode
Sound at 8 a.m., after a perfectly smooth and
delightful passage round, and anchored off
Middle Point. Traversing these beautiful arms
of the sea reminds me of the Clyde, but without
the villas, or habitations of any kind. The
scenery is decidedly pretty, but rather monoton-
ous. Hills of moderate height, densely wooded
to their summits, slope back from the banks on
either side. There are no inhabitants in Clode
Sound — which seems a pity, as the soil is evi-
dently of very fine quality, and the bay is
capable of maintaining a large population. Two
fine salmon-rivers empty themselves into the
hay — one at the south-west, the other at the
north-west arm. We followed the former wp
for five miles, but saw no signs of life, except
where some lumberers had been at w^ork, and
had stacked some timber ready for shipment.
The south-west river is a fine broad stream, but
shallow, with no deep pools, as for as we could
see. For a wonder, it was not barred ; nor did

11,/

' '.if

1

pi

48

NEWMAN SOUND.

there seem to be any fish in it, as the salmon
and sea-trout have not yet struck in. Wa saw
several brace of ducks, but did not molest them,
as they were breeding. A settler at Goose Bay
told me there were plenty of deer in the winter,
and that he had shot fourteen himself. Wild
geese are also plentiful at that season. The
water is quite fresh in these sounds at the head
of the bays. Otters seem plentiful.

June 29th. — Left Clode Sound at daylight for
Newman Sound. Another lovely morning, broad
daylight at 3 a.m. After threading our way
through lovely reaches, anchored at 1 p.m.
This place is also uninhabited ; it closely re-
sembles Clode Sound in its general features.
Two small streams empty into the bay, but at
the time of our visit, were worthless for fishing.
I am told, however, that when the sea-trout are
running, they are full of splendid fish.

June 30th. — Left Newman Sound for Middle
Arm ; passed between Little Denier and the
Brandies Rocks. Salvage is a neat little village,
but the harbour is only fit for small craft. A
small iceberg; was aground on South Shag
Island, and several large bergs in sight in

MIDDLE ARM.

49

the olliiig. From Cow Head we passed through
Bloody Reach, ^ and anchored in Middle Arm at

2 P.M.

This place has not been visited by a man-of-
war since H.M.S. Lily was here many years
ago. It is similar in every respect to the other
fine anchorages in Bonavista Bay. A magnifi-
cent salmon - river, the Terra - Nova, delivers
itself into the south-west corner of the bay. A
few settlers inhabit the banks, earning a pre-
carious living by fishing and lumbering, and in
a very small way by tilling the ground. The
best anchorage is off the river's mouth, in five
fathoms of mud. There are seventeen families
in all living in the bay ; but the whole of the
men, with the exception of two, are away at the
Labrador fishery.

July 1st. — A lovely summer's day. Left Mid-
dle Arm and proceeded to Freshwater Bay. It
is very necessary, in navigating these waters, to
travel only by daylight, not only for the safety
of the ship, but also on account of the fishing-

^ This name is rather startling, and so is " Damnable Har-
bour," close by. I conclude the surveyors must have got mixed
I up, with so many reefs about.

50

FRESHWATER BAY.

nets which are everywhere set, and would be
destroyed by a steamer passing through them,
and the poor owners ruined. We anchored at
the head of Freshwater Bay at 4 p.m. A fine
river, the Gambo Brook, runs into the south-
west part of the bay, and another smaller one
on the west side. Both of these streams are
ruined, so far as the salmon-fishery is concerned,
by two sawmills belonging to St John's mer-
chants. The sawdust is thrown on to the bank
of the river, and from thence blown into tlie
water, defiling the whole l)ay. At the spdt
where I landed, the sawdust was two feet deep,
and the bottom was covered with it. The
upper mill, 2h miles from the mouth, bars
the river, and the salmon ar(3 unable to go iij)
to spawn. Served both mills with the Gover-
nor's proclamation.

July 2d. — Arrived at Grccnspond at 7.30 v.^i.
— a truly miserable-looking place. Several im-
mense icebergs were in sight from the anchor-
age. The town is built upon a barren rocky
island, and although presenting a most unin-
viting appearance, is a place of considerabk'
importance. It is a favourite resort for sealers i

and til
bound,
inliabiti
the Lai
hood he
severity
traordinj
should 1
many be
hitely vis
cent rive
be unnot
is found
I iishing pi
" tiling sho

cod-fish,

:; fid Provit

: i^etter, pe

if the fish

: people to

'^^(ly 3d
i'-eberofs
•'lice in t(
^vliere we
Mt 49°, will

GREENSPOND.

51

and the Labrador fishery Heet when weather-
bound. The town contains upwards of 1400
inhabitants, seven-eighths of whom are away at
the Labrador. The fishing in the neighbour-
hood has been a faihire so far, owing to the
severity of the season. It certainly seems ex-
traordinary that such an unattractive spot
should be chosen to luiild a town, when so
many beautiful spots such as those w^e have
lately visited, possessing fine harbours, magnifi-
cent rivers, fine timber, and good soil, should
be unnoticed and neglected. But the reason
is found in the convenience of the port for
fishing purposes. It seems a pity that every-
thinsj should be sacrificed to the everlastinoj
cod-fish, and that the blessings which a bounti-
ful Providence has provided be unappreciated.
Better, perhaps, would it be for Newfoundland
if the fish deserted these shores, and caused her
people to look elsewhere for their living.

July Sd. — Left Greenspond at 7 a.m. ; huge

I icebergs in sight in all directions. The difi'er-

jence in temperature betw^een this place and

where we left yesterday is 30°. Here we have

it 49°, whilst at Freshwater Bay it was 79°.

52

SELDOM-COME-BY.

The disgusting practice of manuring the ground
with fish is carried on at Greenspond to per-
fection, and to such an extent that these im-
provident folk often run short of bait, and
cannot go fishing in consequence. If, instead
of rotting their fields with these useful little fish
(the caplin), they preserved them in ice, they
would never be short of bait nor of food. Tlie
bouquet from Greenspond is so fragrant that
we perceived it four miles off. There is now
a lighthouse on " Stinking Islands " ^ : certainly
the person who named these places had not
much poetry in him. Passed numerous ice-
bergs, some of very great size and fantastic
form, and arrived at Seldom-come-by at 4 p.m.
Thirty-one large icebergs seen to-day. There
are 300 people living at Seldom-come-by. No
clergyman, doctor, or magistrate.

Sunday, July Uh. — Several people came off to
church, and the chaplain afterwards performed
service on shore. This place is celebrated for
lobsters. A lobster - canning establishment is
doing a good business on shore, as many as 4OO0

,-' 1

being taken in one morning.

The anchorage is

1 Since re-named Cabot.

GANDER RIVER.

53

a very good one — hence the name. Between
April 1879 and January 1880, 894 vessels
anchored in the bay.

July 5th. — Proceeded up the Gander river, and
anchored in three fathoms. The Gander is a
noble stream ; it drains several large lakes in
the interior, and a great deal of lumljering is
done, the spars being cut thirty miles up the river
and rafted down. A few families reside on the
l)aiiks, living by salmon-fishing and lumljering.
Fortunately the river is too large for barring.

July 6th. — Left the Gander river, and pro-
ceeded down the channel between Change and
New World Islands, — a most dangerous passage,
abounding in reefs and sunken rocks ; l)ut that
between Foo;o and Chano-e Islands is not much
better, so there is no choice. Arrived at Tou-
linguet at 4 p.m. Toulinguet is said to con-
tain 3000 inhabitants, and is the fourth place of
importance in Newfoundland.

July Sth. — Left Toulinguet at 9 a.m. ; numer-
ous icebergs in sight, and no less than four
islands, all named Gull, visible at one time. It
18 time these places were re-named. At noon
we passed close to a very large iceberg over 200

K

.♦•^

54

HALLS BAY.

feet liigli, and of great extent. We carefully
tested the temiJerature, both of the water and
the air, when close to it, and found there was
no diJferencL' whatever, although we passed to
leeward of it ; hence it is quite a delusion to
suppose that one gets warning of their proximity
by these methods.^ Entered Hall's Bay at 4
P.M., and anchored near the head about dark.
The anchorage is difHcult to find, and one must
bring-to directly soundings are ol)tained. The
scenery in Hall's Bay is beautiful, but is much
spoilt by the forest-fires, which have devastated
many square miles of country. Three fine
salmon-rivers, all containing salmon and sea-
trout, discharge themselves into the bay.
Jidy lith. — Left the anchorage in Hall's Bay,

^ Possibly notice of the proximity to an iceberg might be given
by the thermometer in miUler hititiules- lor instance, in ilie
Gnlf Stream, where icebergs are sometime.s met ; but in New-
foundland the water is always cold, so no ditference is shown.
It may not be generally known that icebergs are composed of
fresh water, in contradistinction to field-ice, which is frozen salt-
water. The former are glaciers which have been formed in tli«
valleys, and have slid down by their own weight into the sea.
Seven-eighths of these bergs are below water ; they travel very
slowly, being unaffected by tb ' ' only drift with tin

current. They fre<|iu'i;ilv ., eir bulk may be esti-

mated by the mas> ^c . r, sometimes 400 feet

high and several ni . oun.

f

rounder
limit oi
eliored ;
bay fori
ju'etty t
l)oin-, all
affords [\
vring a
settlcmer
the .Fren(
Jul?/ 1.
J^hide sai^
quantity
Islands, n
also sonic
Arrived n
l»nucipal
several bi
har])our dj
sels — six
in all), si
small boat!
left in K
charo-e of

\\'ell this

3

ROUGE HARBOUK.

65

rounded Cape St John's at noon, the southern
limit of the French fishing - ground, and an-
(ihured in Pacquet IIarl)our. 'i'lie head of the
hay forms a perfectly hmdhjcked basin, with a
pretty trout-stream running into it. The har-
Ituur, (dthough confined, is perfectly safe, and
affords an admirable opportunity for mana3U-
vring a large ship out of it again. The only
settlement is or was in the north-west arm, but
the French have now deserted the place.

Juhj 15th. — Left Pacquet for Kouge Harl)our.
Alade sail to a fine breeze ; passed through a
quantity of detached field-ice near the Plorse
Islands, apparently the remains of an iceberg ;
also some very large bergs off" Canada Bay.
Arrived in Rouge Harljour 4 p.m. This is the
principal rendezvous of French vessels, and
several brigs and l^arques were lying in the
har1)our dismantled for the season. These ves-
si'ls — six in number — carry 60 men each (360
in all), six large boats per ship, besides 60
small l3oats between them. The large boats are
left in Newfoundland during the winter in
cluu'o-e of fijuardians. The French have done
well this year, having averaged 200,000 fish per

56

FRENCH AT ROUGE.

boat, or 2000 quintals per ship. There are only-
three English families at Rouge ; but at (.'onche
Harbour, separated from Rouge by a narrow
peninsula, there are thirty-eight families. They
have no doctor or magistrate ; one Roman Ca-
tholic priest is in charge of the settlement.
j\Iany poor people, especially women, came on
board to see the doctor. They mostly suffer from
dyspepsia, caused by drinking too much tea, and
from bad living generally ; also other complaints,
brought about by hard work and exposure, and
insufficient clothing. Settled a case of assault,
and investigated several other complaints ; which
detained me till the 16th, when I proceeded to
Croque Harbour. Employed all the afternoon
and the next day settling disputes about land and
other matters. One family, by name Clanche,
very miserably off, in consequence of the idle-
ness and intemperance of the father ; sent the
poor children some blankets, l)read, and meat,
Commodore Devarenne arrived in the Clorinde;
exchanged salutes and visits, &c.

July 17th, lSth,and 19th. — Transacting busi-
ness with the French commodore relative to the
salmon-rivers, the lobster-factory at St Barbe's,

COMPLAINTS.

57

3

&c. Most of the people on this part of the
coast speak French fluently, and seem to like
the French well enough. As a matter of fact,
they are kindly treated by the French and
neglected by their own Government. They
have no doctor, clergyman, or magistrate ; and
except when a man-of-war comes in, they see
none of their countrymen. All the trouble on
this coast is in the neighbourhood of St Anthony,
Mein Bay, and Canada Bay, where quarrels are
of constant occurrence. The French have only
3000 men on the coast this year, against GOOO
last. This is due to the fact that last season
was a bad one, and they had great difficulty in
disposing of their fish owing to competition
from Iceland, &c. This year they have done
well, so perhaps some of the French rooms now
unoccupied will be reoccu^jied next year.

Investigated several complaints against the
French, most of them trivial and of long stand-
ing. Heard of some difficulties at Ha Ha and
Pistolet Bays. These places should be regu-
larly visited, as there are some very trouble-
some characters there.

July 20th. — Sailed from Croque Harbour at 10

ill !'

58

HARE BAY.

A.M. Met the Contest outside ; sent her into
Croque with compLaints against the French in
Canada Bay. Made all sail to a fine breeze from
the southward ; beautiful clear weather, icebergs
in every direction. Anchored in south-west arm
of Hare Bay at 3 p.m. AVe have no chart of this
fine bay since Cook's survey a hundred years ago;
but that is correct, though small. The French
have lately surveyed this and Canada Bay, and
have charts of both on a large scale, which may l)e
bouoht for one franc. As soon as we anchored,
I went to inspect the southern brook — a fine
salmon-river. As I expected, the river was
completely barred by an enormous net extend-
ing from bank to bank — the lower part weight-
ed by stones, and the upper lifted by stakes, so
that not a fish could possibly pass. I told the
Frenchman in charge that he had no business
there ; and that even if he had, his net was
illegally set. He merely shrugged his shoul-
ders. Fifty-eight barrels of fine salmon were
salted in his hut. Felt so ill at the sight I was
oblio'ecl to return on board straight.

Jidy 2lst.- -Went up the west brook to sec
if it was barred also, but found no one liviuQ

u

there,
not uea
is shallc
pools h
trout,
plenty (
scenery
pretty ii
bay ougl]
more apj
^Ve saw f
a fine sj^o
on 21st;
and Frei:
St Anthoi
is necessa
narrow, ai
craft. jS\
Simnis, e
comphiini
'English n
fhe same
the Canad
'■ounter-cl
fering wif

ST ANTHONY.

59

I

there. The west brook is a fine stream, though
not nearly so Large as the south-west brook. It
is shallow at the mouth, but there are fine deep
jDools higher up holding salmon and heavy
trout. The land hereabouts seems good, with
plenty of rich grass and wild flowers. The
scenery in Hare Bay is beautiful ; numerous
pretty islets add greatly to the effect. This
bay ought to be called the Bay of Islands — a
more appropriate name than its present one.
We saw flocks of wild-fowl, and it is evidently
a fine sporting country. Sailed for St Anthony
on 21st; found there the Flamingo, Contest,
and French man-of-war schooner Canadienne.
St Anthony is a snug harbour ; but great caution
is necessary in coming in, as the passage is very
narrow, and the harljour is always full of fishing-
craft. No sooner had we anchored than Robert
8imms, chief constable, came oft' with a host of
comi)laints against the French for taking up
Euoii.sh nets and drag-o-ino; them on shore. At
the same time, M. Le Contc, the captain of
the CVmadienne, came to see me with a heap of
counter-charges aoainst the Engjlish for inter-
ferinor with the French. Seeino; that aftairs

60

FORTEAU.

ii

were in a very unsatisfactory state, I held a
council in my cabin, at wliicli M. Le Conte
represented the French, and Simms the English.
Between us we drew up a notice which had the
effect of pacifying all parties.^

July 24th. — Left St Anthony for Kirpon. ]Met
with a strong tide-race off Cape Bauld, and
several large icebergs in the Straits of Belle-
isle. Anchored for the night in Kirpon Har-
bour, and proceeded the next morning in a
dense fog. At 5 p.m. made out the land off
Loup Bay, and anchored at Forteau the same
evening. Found the current had set us to the
north-east two knots an hour. Had we not
kept a very sharp look-out both from the deck
and the mast-head, we must have come to grief.
Oftentimes, when nothing could be seen from
deck beyond 100 yards off, the land was visi-
ble from the mast-head. By neglecting this
precaution a steamer was lost here last win-
ter. An old settler came on board to see me
as soon as we had anchored, and in answer to

' This dociament was subsequently repudiated by the author-
ities at St John's, and I was threatened with legal proceedings
for promulj,'ating it.

'%

my inqi
winter, 1

"Ah,
when the
those wli
cifiil pro^
sir, wrec!
iiour, on
The LoK
tear roUec
livered hi
cied I det
as he rela
seen the
she came
she shou^

There
which is
of Beileis
time of
parson, oi
the work
from a n
godsend,
tlu'y had

A PROVIDENTIAL WRECK.

61

my inquiry liow lie had jot on during the
winter, he said —

" Ah, sir, we was on the point of starving,
when the Lord God Almighty, who never forgets
those who put their trust in Him, in His mer-
ciful providence sent us relief ! A fine steamer,
sir, wrecked quite handy ! and loaded with
Hour, on which we have been living ever since.
The Lord be praised for all His mercies." A
tear rolled down his furrowed cheek as he de-
livered himself of this expression ; and I fan-
cied I detected a twinkle in the old man's eye
as he related with much gusto how they had
seen the vessel's mast-heads over the fog as
she came on to her destruction, fearful lest
she should discover her error in time.

There are twenty ftimilies living at Forteau,
which is on the Labrador side of the Straits
of Beileisle. These poor people have a hard
time of it in winter. They have no doctor,
parson, or magistrate, and appear to be out of
the world, neglected and forgotten. A visit
from a man-of-war is looked forw-ard to as a
godsend. The bay was alive with fish ; but
they had no salt to cure them, so had to leave

T'sf'

m

m

i. *

py

62

LANCE-LOUP.

off fishing. ]\Iany people came off to sec the
doctor.

July 29th. — Left Forteau for Lance-Loup, a
small port to the eastward, to settle a small
matter there between a fisherman and the store-
keeper, who is also J. P. The usual thing :
fisherman heavily in debt ; no means or inten-
tion of paying ; merchant cuts off his supplies ;
fisherman starves. I walktd across from For-
teau with the first lieutenant and doctor, as I
wished to examine the lighthouse on Amour
Point. The lighthouse-keeper is an intelligent
Canadian (all the lighthouses about here are
under the Canadian Government). The fog-
whistle on Amour Point is placed in the wrong
position, and can only be heard when close to ;
whereas if it was on the Point, instead of round
the corner, it would be heard several miles.^
From Lance-Loup we went, July 29th, to St
Barbe's, a very snug anchorage. A Nova Sco-
tian firm have set up a lo1)ster-canning estab-
lishment on the Point, at the entrance to the
harboui-. This has given rise to several pro-

1 I reported this, but the Canadian Government do not concur
in my opinion.

m

tests 01

vessels i

in no w

the facte

and girl

tlie lobst

material

tins, and

tiou. Tl

a-day.

Tliere are

the harbc

fished, an

They wer

visit.

Juhj 3(
and ancho
evening,
several F:
is too sm,
already si
Two fine
nearly exl
I'ing, swee
eighty bar

LOBSTER-CANNING AT ST BARBE S.

63

tests on the part of the French ; but French
vessels never come here, and the establishment
in no way interferes with them. I went over
the factory with the manager. Some forty men
and girls are employed cleaning and packing
the lobsters, a very interesting process. All the
material is made upon the spot, including the
tins, and the machinery is of the best descrip-
tion. They often take and tin 4000 lobsters
a-day. This industry should be encouraged.
There are two small salmon-rivers running into
the harbour, both claimed by the French, but
fished, and barred, by an old English poacher.
They were, of course, clear at the time of our
visit.

July SOth. — Left St Barbe's for Hawke's Bay,
and anchored in the inner anchorage the same
evening. On passing Port au C^hoix we noticed
several French vessels in the harbour, but it
is too small for us. Four French ships have
already sailed for ^Marseilles with full cargoes.
Two fine salmon-rivers in Hawke's Bay are
nearly exhausted by many years of abuse, bar-
ring, sweeping with nets, &c., till, from yielding
eighty barrels of salmon in a season, they now

ifll !

64

INDIAN COVE.

produce only one and a half. All this has been
done by two brothers, Eastman, who, having
ruined the rivers, have now ruined themselves.
The east river has the finest cast for a salmon
in the whole of Newfoundland. We only got a
few grilse and some large trout.

Aug. 2d. — Left Hawke's Bay for Bonne Bay,
and anchored in Indian Cove the same eveninsf.
The usual disputes going on about land. The
first lieutenant and myself succeeded in ar-
ranging matters after two days' argument.
Bonne Bay is justly named, being one of the
most beautiful bays in the island. It is so
large that there are numerous anchorages in it,
the best being Indian Cove, suitable for a large
ship. Several noble rivers discharge them-
selves into the various arms of the bay, all
holding salmon and fine trout. The scenery
is grand, resembling to a very marked degree
the Highlands on the west coast of Scotland.
There are several settlements in the bay, and
the sum-total of the inhabitants makes up nearly
1000 souls. A Church of Eiigland clergyman
and a Methodist divide the responsibility of
looking after them. We remained here five

m (lays, 01
jmtos o:
TJic fact
are xciy
prefer to
tlie quarl
Tile sc
*| many mi
^ bay, and
A Can
establfshei
lias raised
besides er
poses. H
giving up
curs wliiel
packs, kil
are they
>o scliool.
every dog
Aug. 7t
arrived at
"P our 0

' I was glac
two, and was

Ik

WOLFISH DOGS.

65

(lays, our time being occupied in settling dis-
putes of all kinds, but mostly about land.
Tile fact is, that cheap law and cheap medicine
are very i^opular amongst these people, and they
prefer to have every paltry squabble settled on
the quarter-deck of a man-of-war.

The south arm of the bay extends inland for
m;my miles. The scenery is the finest in the
bay, and the soil the richest.

A Canadian settler named Mackenzie has
established himself at the head of the arm, and
has raised good crops of potatoes and turnips,
besides enclosing some land for grazing pur-
poses. He deserves to succeed, but was nearly
giving up in despair on account of the wolfish
curs which hunt the neio'hl)ourliood in regular
})acks, killing his cattle and sheep ; so ferocious
are they that he could not send his children to
school. I gave him full permission to shoot
every dog he could.^

Aug. 7th. — Left Bonne Bay at 5 a.m., and
arrived at the Bay of Islands at 2 p.m., taking
up our old berth in Birchy Cove. The bay

' I was glad to hear afterwards that he had bagged ninety-
two, and was still at it ! Move power to his elbow !

E

> !■'

6G SUFFERINGS OF BIRCHY COVE TECPLE.

looks very pretty and thriving at this time of
the year : many ueat cottages and extensive
clearings are to be seen on both sides, giv-
ing one the idea that plenty and contentment
reign in that peaceful spot ; but, alas ! it is pre-
cisely the reverse. The poor people are in a
wretched condition, and would most certainly
have starved during the long and severe winter,
had it not been for Captain Howarth, R.N.,^ and
Eev. Mr Curling, both of whom, by their noble
exertions, staved off this dreadful calamity.
Indeed it is notorious that many families are
entirely supported during the winter by the
latter gentleman, whose life and fortune are
devote to the cause. Should Mr Curling leave
the place, these poor people will, I fear, relapse
into their former hopeless condition. This year
(1880) the fishing has been a good one, so we
must hope for better times.- The sawmill at
the head of the bay is doing a good business,
some two million feet of lumber having been
cut last fall ; and now that the sawdust is burnt

^ Captain Howarth went home on leave in 1879 very ill. He
returned to his jiost, only to die in the winter of 1880.
- It turned out a failure after all.

LOWERING THE FRENCH FLAG.

67

instt'iul of being thrown into the water as here-
tofore, the herrings are returning to the bay.

Aufj. 10th. — Sailed from the Bay of Islands.
Uu i»a.ssing Red Island I observed the French
Hag flying from a flagstaff, so landed with the
first lieutenant. The prmVhomme^ was very
civil, and in answer to my questions he said
lie had hoisted his flag there for six years, and
it had never been molested. I thanked him
for the compliment of showing his colours to
lis ! and requested him to haul it down, which
was immediately done, and begged him never
to display it again, as the island belonged to
us and not to the French.

Proceeded at 7 p.m., and rounded Cape Ray -^
in a dense fog ; heard the fog-horn, but saw
nothing. Arrived at La Poile next day. This
is a thriving little place, and they have done
fairly well fishing. The usual complaint, Fish-
erman V. Merchant ; but in this case the fish-
erman was in the wrong, the merchant having
l)ehaved to him with leniency and consideration,
which he had returned with impertinence.

' PrudHiommc is the name for tlie head man in charge.
- The western limit of the French fishery.

•»-j! U

Vi

^f*

1

68

LITTLE HIVKR.

Au(/. l^th. — Left La Poilo in ji tliickfog, and
ivaclied Little River at 5 p.m. 'I'he entrance to
this place is only three -quarters of a cable
broad, ^ but the water is deep, and there are
no dangers, except with a southerly wind and
heavy sea, wlien the sea breaks riglit across.
Once inside, all is calm and peaceful. The
scenery is magnificent ; precipitous cliffs on
either hand, rising to 1000 feet and more. AVc
steamed up into a large basin, four miles from
the entrance, to admire the scenery ; then
turned round and ancliored off the settlement.
There are nine families living in this secluded
spot — seventy souls in all, forty of whom aiv
children. The place is seldom visited l)y ;i
man-of-war, and they arc very glad to see our.
The people are verj^ poor, having had a ven
bad fishing season. Fortunately, game is abun-
dant in the winter.

Left Little River at daylight, August 14tli.
Stopped off Rencontre to drop the steam-
cutter with the doctor, and went on to Haic
Bay, a better anchorage. The scenery at Hare
Bay is even more remarkable than at Little

1 A cable is 200 yards.

ii;l'!,l

Iviver, .1

On the

proachii

bearinsf

called, 0

head."

•scenery

mindinof
way. TJ
for a set
of tlie ba
I'iver clo
gentle sl(
till' back,
and grou
^Ve saw 1
•some groi
tioii — (•()(
reason w]i
liappily
"lain feat
tile coast.
Sunday
nionier.
'■"ppi'uacliiii

** DKVIL's FIOUHKHEAD."

69

River, nlthough the eutraiiee is not no narrow.
On the right-liand .side of the entrance a})-
[iioaeliing from seaward is a, remarkahle rock
he'iring the likeness to a man's face. It is
called, out of compliment, the " Devil's Figure-
hijid." I consider Hare Bay to be the finest
scenery in Newfoundland, re-
minding one of a fiord in Nor-
way. There is a beautiful site
for a settlement at the head
of the bay, with a fine salmon-
river close at hand, and a
gentle slope to the barrens at
the back, whereon deer, bear,
and grouse are to be found.
We saw two bears, and killed
some grouse. The sole attrac-
tion — cod-fish — is alone wanting ; hence the
reason why Hare Bay remains uninhabited, and
happily inidefiled by putrid cods' heads, the
main feature in the other settlements round
tlie coast.

Sunday, Aug. loth. — Left Hare Bay for Sal-
monier. The greatest caution is necessary in
approaching the islands of St Pierre and Mig-

DcviVs Figurehead.

70

SALMONIER.

lifiiU

nMm'

mm

elon, especially in foggy weather, as it general-
ly is, on account of the strong currents which
prevail in that neighbourliood. We shaped
a course to pass between Migelon and the
Seal Islands, and yet passed outside the
latter.

Arrived at Salmonier August 16th. This
place is steadily improving, and will one day
be of great importance. It may be called the
Brighton of St John's, and when the railway
is completed, will no doubt become a fashion-
able watering-place.

We noticed a good deal more land cleared
since our last visit in 1879, and some thriving
crops on the hillsides. A trip up the Salmonier
river at this season of the year will well repay
one. The icenery is beautiful, and the accom-
modation at Carew's Hotel is good of its kind.

In consequence of a telegram from the Gov-
ernor, I put to sea on the 19th August at 9
P.M., and went to the assistance of the steamer
Flavian, ashore at Great Island, on the south-east
coast. We rounded Cape Race, as usual, in a
dense fog, and arrived off Great Island at noon
ne"xt day. The Flaviari was hard and fast in a

r«

cove, V
('onsid(
hold o:
make :
engines
on to S
^?2d ai:

Flavian
II lono-

attempt
Heptenil
days, an
her, she
hawsers
ship sho
coast for
tlie mos
pened.
to the
her first
lueans ta
'Host int
story to
most po
ations, o

THE FLAVIAN IN DISTRESS.

71

■5

cove, with the sea breaking nil round. After
cousiderabk^ trouble and no little risk, we got
liokl of her with our wire hawsers, but could
make no impression upon her, although the
engines were working at full power ; so we went
on to 8t John's for further assistance. On the
TZd and 23d we again went down to the
Flavian, l;)ut with the same result. To make
a long story short, we made no less than five
attempts to tow the vessel oft"; finally, on 10th
September, after she had been ashore twenty-nine
days, an.! had 3000 tons of cargo taken out of
her, she Moated just as we were getting our
hawsers fast to her for the last time. That a
sliip should be on the rocks on this iron-bound
coast for a month, and finally get off, is one of
the most extraordinary events that ever hap-
pened. It may ])e attributed in a measure
to the fact that the ship was brand-new, on
\wv first voyage, and very strongly built. The
nn-ans taken to lift her by pontoons, &c., were
most interesting, but would make too long a
story to relate here. The Druid was twice in a
most perilous position herself during these op)er-
ations, owing to the heavy sea l)eating on the

I

MiM^mm

72

IN A FOG.

n

weather shore of the ishuid, where the Fhavian
was. Officers and men worked with a will ; but
although the captain, and Lloyd's agent, who
came out from England to assist in the opera-
tions, expressed their gratitude for our endeav-
ours in the highest terms, not one word of
thanks or notice of any kind did we ever get
from the owners.

On 12th September, two days after the Fla-
vian floated, we were oft' again on a second
cruise, and reached Trepassey Harbour the same
night. The next morning oft" again at daylight
for St Mary's, and from thence to Great St
Lawrence. Thick fog and rain all day ; never-
theless we made the harbour's mouth exactly.
We find the safest way in a fog is to stand boldly
in for the shore, keeping a very sharp look-out
from all parts of the ship. The breakers will
always be seen at from 150 to 200 yards oft'; but
with the engines under command, there is not
much risk, and the entrance can generally be
made out. The lead is of little use, as the water
is usually deep right alongside the rock . 1
hiive tried sending boats ahead again and again,
and generally found that the boats have lost

their wa

We foui

wliistle j

to their

Anvho

i'og, witli

anchorao(

weeks for
by curreii
Sept. 1
by dense
'^ out and ]
desirous c
mounted
French fit
immediate
There aj
in the p];
['^ some 200C
p elo.se of tl
■; A consi(
■' andXova
^vith the sc
; J'daiid is c
' I;m(], Newi

M.tii^Jktofe:' . ..-'ift^fM-Si'rVv-^. ■■■-■;■..■

^Xijil'fiiiii^uiuii-^-. .A^-i

ST PIERRE.

73

their way, and we have got in without them.
We found that the reverberation of the fog-
whistle from the cliffs was also a sure guide as
to their distance.

Anyhow, it is nasty work groping about in a
fog, with wind and sea setting on shore, and no
anchorage. If you stand off, you may wait for
weeks for the fog to lift, and get drifted about
by currents, till you cannot tell where you are.

Sept. IGth. — Detained in C :'at St Lawrence
by dense fog. On 17th it lifted, and we got
out and proceeded round to St Pierre. I was
desirous of ascertaining if they had any guns
mounted in St P'^ire; so we saluted the
French Hag with twenty-one guns, which was
immediately returned.

There are between 4000 and 5u00 inhabitants
in the place, besides a iioating population of
some 2000 more who return to France at the
close of the season.

A considerable trade is carried on with Canada
and Nova Scotia, and a good deal of smuo-crlinor

' o fro o

with the southern ports of Newfoundland. The
inland is connected by cable with France, Eng-
land, Newfoundland, and Nova Scotia.

-■'■- 'iA:

mi

Sf^^^SSift^^J^i^.;;

. c.S;£teS:^sa«sar^^"- "^tis^'

idSafi!ii'iii«i^iSSti^et^-sis^^iit^^^ ^vU'^rMVH^

'I.!

74

BAY OF DKSPAIR.

Sept. ISth. — Sailed for the Bay of Despair —
or Des Espoirs, according to the French charts.
Some hours afterwards we observed a schooner
flying a signal of distress. She proved to be
the Obeline, of and from the Gut of Canso, laden
with cattle and sheep for St Pierre. They had
been nineteen days at sea. The master had no
idea where he was, and the cattle were starving^.

£ast Buy — Bay of Despair.

Took the craft in tow, and proceeded up the noitli-
east arm of the Bay of Despair. Scenery magni-
ficent, and weather perfect. After forty mile.s
of this inland navigation, we anchored in Ship
Cove — a very snug little place. No man-of-war
had l)een here for three years. There are eleven
families in the Cove. They live Ijy cultivatini;
the land and raising cattle. They do but littl'

i

fishing,

Ctarr\" on

hoops fc

goes in i

and say

An old

and ninel

well for 1

meuts scf

and arms

in Conne

the head

station ^ I

esting ph

nneventfi

pendent

the work

goes on

grous<3 ar(

neigh hoiii

'I couple

' 1 liave
of-the-way ai
These station
iii^,' iirder. A
t'itiou of till'

Mi

1:1

SHIP COVE.

75

l:|i

fisliiiio-, l)oing so far from the sea ; but they
caiTV on a little trade with St Pierre — making
hoops for casks, and bringing back general car-
goes in return. They have no doctor or priest,
and say they get on very well without them.
An old couple named Collier number ninety
and ninety-five years respectivel}' — which speaks
well for the climate. There are several settle-
ments scattered al)out in the neighbouring (Greeks
and arms of the bay, and an Indian encampment
in Conne River. A fine salmon-river runs into
the head of the main branch, and a telegraph
station ^ beside it. Altogether, this is an inter-
esting place. These primitive folk lead quiet,
uneventful lives : they are prett}' well inde-
pendent of the truck system, at peace with all
the world, and seemingly inclifferent to what
goes on in it — l^eyond their l:)ay. Plenty of
grouse are to be found on the barrens in this
neigh !:)ourliood, and deer in the winter. After
a couple of days spent pleasantty here, we put

' I liavo fi'e(|uently mentioned the telegraph /cation at out-
of-the-way and sometimes uninhabiteil places along the coast.
Thei<e stations are for the purpose of kee])ing the line in work-
ing order. A repairer lives there, and is responsible for ilie con-
dition of the line for several miles on each side of the station.

76

BAY OF ISLANDS.

to sea, towing the Obelinc, which we cast off out-
side, with a fair wind, for 8t Pierre. Anchored
in Hare Bay the same afternoon.

Sei^t. 23f/. — Proceeded on to White Bear Bay,
to communicate with the telegraph station at
the head. This is a fine bay, twenty miles
deep, with a good ancliorage at the head. The
only living creatures are the operator and his
family, and one telegra}»li repairer ! ^ Truly a
lonely life. Game is plentiful in winter — deer,
bears, and ptarmigan in abundance. From
White Bejir Bay we proceeded once mure to
visit our friends at the Bay of Islands, anchor-
ing on this occasion at Petipas Cove, the best
anchorage. We found the poor people in great
distress, owing to the failure of the herring-
fishery ; and they have no other means of earn-
ing a living. Mr Curling supports many fami-
lies out of his private purse ; but it is not fair
that he should support the whole pojralation of
the bay.

The people on the west coast have no rcp-

^ In the winter-time the repairer has very hard work, as the
wires are often broken clown by snow and the posts levelled by
gales. They have to travel long distances in sleighs drawn by
dogs, and are frequently away for days together.

THE

resentati
they are
They lia^
schools-
all swalh
A little
is needed
of the CO
country,
have l)eei:
paralysed
however i
al)le mere
can be fo
that he
who claim
timi Jiim
they cann
ity exists,
Oct. 2d.
are only t
ill a sad st
means of
lias foiled.

• Ih,,

I

THE INHABITANTS OF THE WEST COAST. 77

reseutative in the local Parliament ; and yet
tlioy are taxed, without reaping any advantage.^
They have no roads worthy the name, and no
schools — the monc}^ voted for the former Toeing
all .swallowed up in providing for the paupers.
A Httle encouragement from the Government
is needed to develop the resources of this part
of the coast. There is plenty of wealth in the
country. Coal, marl)le, silver, lead, and asbestos
have ])een found ; l)ut this part of the island is
paralysed by the dread of French occupation,
however unfounded. There is hardly a respect-
a1)le merchant on the west coast ; and no one
can be found to settle without some o-uarantee
that he will not be molested by the French,
who claim to lia\e the right and the power to
turn him out at any moment. This, of course,
they cannot do ; l)ut still the feeling of insecur-
ity exists, and everything remains in statu quo.
Oct. 2d. — Proceeded to York Harbour. There
are only two huts here, and the poor people are
in a sad state of destitution, having actually no
means of living, now that the herring-fishing
lias failed. The doctor's visit was opportune ;

1 I hope and believe this has now been rectified.

I

78

HETURN TO ST JOHNS.

but what they require is food, not physic. On
the 9th October the ship proceeded to T^avk
Harbour, where there arc eight fomilies — about
forty people — in the same sad state of destitu-
tion as in other parts of the bay.

Oct. 11th. — Returned to Petipas Cove. Many
peo^jle came oft' to see the doctor. There is now
no doctor or magistrate in the l)ay, and the
people are too j)ooi' to pay for a medical man.
This destitution is sad to behold, and there
seems no remedy for it. Our visit is looked
forward to as a godsend, for the money spent
by the ship is a great help, and the poor people
feel they are not altogether abandoned or for-
gC'tten in the world. We left the Bay of Is-
lands finally on 13th October, and after coaling
at Sydney, Cape Breton, returned to St John's
on the 18th, and soon afterwards joined the
Admiral at Halifax.

The above description, which I have copied
word for word from my fishery journal, will give
to any one who has taken the trouble to follow
the somewhat monotonous daily routine, a fair
idea of the duties of one of her Majesty's ships

on the fif

of roses i

the risks

tion of til

fogs, vari

and abuij

fruitful S(

the otlier

I a (liploni;

fine the t

;l w'lich, vih
i
^ one is doi

of-tlie-Wfi}

neglected

man, t]ier(

ment, eitli

permits ;

l»endenee

I

'.i*
5

WORK OF ONE OF H.M. SHIPS.

79

:i-

on the iishcrit'S. That it is not altogether a bed
of roses must be evident to the reader, when all
the risks and anxieties in(ddental to the naviga-
tion of these coasts is considered. The constant
fugs, variable and strong currents, hidden rocks,
and abundance of field-ice and icebergs, are a
fruitful source of danger to the mariner. (Jn
the other hand, the work is most interesting in
a diplomatic sense — and when the weather is
fine the cruise piirtakes of yachting ; added to
which, one has the satisfaction of feeling that
one is doino; tjood work in visitino- these out-
of-tlie-way places, and in looking up the poor
neglected folk wdio inhabit them. To a sj^orts-
nian, there is also an abundant held for amuse-
ment, either with rod, gun, or rifle, when time
permits ; and above all this, the glorious inde-
pendence of the life is t(3 me its greatest charm.

fair

80

11

CHAP T E II Y.

CRUISE OF 1881.

I DO not propose to follow the ship from place
to place during the pieoson of 1881, as in the
previous year, because many of the places
visited were the same as the year before, and
it would be a useless repetition ; but on the
other hand, there are several places which we
had never visited either in 1879 or 1880. I shall
have a few remarks to make apropos of them,
Some of these had never been visited by a man-
of-war in the memory of the oldest inhabitant,
and were not even surveyed. This season we
were hurried up from the West Indies a montli
earlier than usual, at the recjuest of the Governor,
who feared another outbreak in Fortune Bay.
That this alarm was a visionary one I will pre.v

eutly sJK

tune Ba

after\var(

ice comi]

and ap]){i

Cape Bre

A'ewfounc

ciiahled i

toiK'hino-

o

inerchant-
tered Fort
a PI X tinted
good Jiarlx
'>our Britc
, wliicJi we ■\
, are niagist
all, ridicul
time of th
III Janu;
Harbour
tliat a dist
''•^ a matte
t»uo which
I uary 1878,
I l->efore or si

APPREHENDED DISTURBANCE.

81

ently whow. Anyhow, we left Halifax for For-
tune Bay on the 21fL April, and two days
afterwards found ourselves beset with field-
ice coming out of the Gulf of St Lawrence,
and {ipi)arently exter V.ng from the shores of
Cape Breton Island to the south-west coast of
Newfoundland. A small detour in our course
enabled us to avoid this obstacle ; and after
touching at St Pierre, where several French
nieichant-vessels had already arrived, we en-
tered Fortune Bay on 25tli April — the time
appointed hj the Admiral. There are several
iiood liarl)ours in this fine bay, notably Har-
bour Briton, St Jaques, and Belloram, all of
which we visited. At all of these places there
lire magistrates ; and these gentlemen, one and
all, ridiculed the idea of a disturbance at this
time of the year.

In January the herrings congregate in Long
Harljour by myriads, and it is at that time
that a disturbance is more probable ; although,
as a matter of fact, with the exception of the
one which caused so much excitement in Jan-
I uaiy 1878, no collision has ever occurred either
before or since.

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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER. N.Y 14580

(716) 872-4503

i

82

LONG HARBOUR.

Belloram is a snug little place and a thriving
settlement. There are 140 ftimilies living in the
bay, numbering 500 inhabitants. Mr Bishop/
the clergyman, has lived at Belloram for thirteen
years ; he has never known a man-of-war come
into the bay. The people are very orderly, and
not a single serious oJBfence has been committed
during the whole of that time : what place could
say the same ? On the 27th April we entered
Long Harbour and anchored near the head,
some fifteen miles from the sea. The so-called
" Fortune Bay outrage " occurred at a place
called the " Tickle Beach," about four miles from
the entrance. We stopped there for a short
time to communicate ; but there was only oue
man there, and the anchorage is a bad one, so
we did not remain. There is a telegraph sta-
tion at the head of Long Harbour, seven miles
above the anchorage ; and a fine salmon-river,
with good grouse - ground on the barrens on
both sides. Deer, ptarmigan, and wild geese
are plentiful. Altogether it is a most sporting-
looking country, and quite undisturbed.

There being nothing to detain us in Long

' Since dead.

pHII

PLACENTIA.

83

Harbour, we continued our rounds, visiting St
Lawrence, Placentia, and Burin. The two last-
named places we had never been to before ; both
are of considerable size, and well worth a visit.
There are 3500 inhabitants at Burin, with a
magistrate, clergyman, and doctor. The har-
bour is excellent, snug, and very picturesque.

Placentia has about 1000 inhabitants ; it was
formerly the French capital. There is also a
magistrate, doctor, and Roman Catholic priest.
The anchorage is only a fair one, being open to
the south-west ; but the holding-ground is good.

From Placentia we touched at Salmonier, St
Mary's, and Trepassey, and arrived at St John's
May 16th, about the usual time for ships to
reach St John's from the West Indies, without
this preliminary canter.

After a short spell for rest and refreshment,
[and having been joined by my colleagues, we
•hspersed again on our several cruises, the Fan-
Itome taking the southern route, whilst we went
[up the east coast. Our first port of call was
|Harhour Grace, and from thence to Heart's Con-
tent,— pretty names both of them. The latter

, • . ■ I

i I:,'' :f

84

SMITHS SOUND.

-'M

is the terminus of the Atlantic cable, and, as a
harbour, is second to none in Newfoundland, or,
for the matter of that, in any country. Tliore
are about 1200 inhabitants in the town. Mr
J^Iurray, the rector, showed us with pride the
beautiful church he was buildinoj — the cost being;
defrayed by voluntary subscriptions, I believe.
We then stood across Conception Bay to Smith's
Sound, and anchored near the head. Smith's
Sound is fairly populated — several small settle-
ments being scattered on both sides of it. The
soil is good, and attempts have been made to
cultivate it. Several small rivers discharge
themselves into the bay ; but as these have all
been barred for twenty years, no salmon can
ascend them. As I reported this circumstance
last year, and no notice was taken of it, I left
the dams unmolested, merely recommending the
owners to make salmon-ladders in the middle,
which they promised to do, but are not tlie|
least likely to perform. I conclude the author-
ities consider the lumber trade to be morel
profitable and important than the salmon-fisli-
ery ; if so, it is no business of mine. All 1 1
know is, that the lumber trade is declining al

wiiereas 1

III

PLOUGHING THROUGH AN ICE-FIELD.

85

over the country, and at the present rate of
forest - fires will soon l)e a thing of the past ;
whereas the salmon, if properly protected, last
for ever.

Eabbits arc so numerous that one old settler
told me that he and his two children had shot
or trapped 500 dozen in two seasons, selling the
skins foi' Id. each. The scenery in Smith's Sound
is pretty enough, but bears no sort of compari-
son with that on the south coast, such as Hare
Bay, Little River, and the Bay of Despair.

From this place we called at Trinity, and
from thence pushed on for Touiinguet. On
approaching Touiinguet we found an immense
field of ice, extending to the northward as ftir
I as the eye could reach — necessitating a long
detour, unless we could force a lane through it,
which we proceeded to do. Selecting a weak
spot in the icy barrier, we put the old Druid at
it. The first shock Ijrought her up all standing,
like a l)illiard-ball ; but recovering her previous
momentum, she gradually bore through, with
110 further damage than the loss of a few sheets
of copper from her stem. This field-ice is very
I treacherous — it looks so broken and easy to get

01
'I

[f

m^^•

86

EXPLOITS RIVEE.

through ; ])iit when it is considered that seven-
eighths of the bulk are below water, it can he
easily understood that blocks as big as th^ quar-
ter-deck, above ivater, offer considerable opposi-
tion to the passage of a ship. It must also be
l^orne in mind that if one cannot get through,
it is also impossible to turn round, and difficult
to back out, without risking the loss of, or dam-
age to, the propeller. Toulinguet is a pretty
place, and an excellent and capacious anchor-
age ; it is a favourite rendezvous for the Labra-
dor fishing fleet.

AVhilst steaming up the Exploits river a day
or two afterwards, we noticed a strong smell of
burnino- with a thick smoke extendino- main
miles to seaward, caused by an extensive forost-
fire on the mainland. The sun was partially
obscured the whole day, glowing through tlie
smoke like a red-hot shot, and casting a lurid
glare upon the water quite beautiful to behold
The atmosphere became close and stifling as
we ascended the river, the thermometer show-
ing 79° against 40° outside. The temperature of |
the water also rose from 35° to 50°. On coming
to an anchor at 4 p.m., we learnt that a fire had

been rat
must luT
and the
Soon I
iuibitant
Jiini a 0-,
whk'li lo(
" TJieni
caribou ]
tJioy're n(
came here
iug story ;
" I was
ago, when
flown. B

so I puts n
shoots '^m
lieve nie,
across, anc

Later
related the
coiisiderab
J asked hin
those liorn
" We]], a

11

THE OLDEST INHABITANT.

87

been raging for weeks, and the people feared it
must iiave readied the settlement at Hall's Bay,
and the mine at Little Bay.

Soon {ifter we had anchored, the " oldest in-
habitant" came on board to see me. I gave
him a good stiff glass of old Scotch whisky,
which loosened his tongue.

"Them's fine heads," said he, looking at my
caribou heads in the cabin ; " but Lor', sir,
they're nothing to some I shot when I first
Ccanie here." Whereupon he related the follow-
ing story : —

" I was a-beating up the river some years
ago, when I seed, as I thought, a tree floating
down. But I soon saw they was two lino stags ;
so I puts me 'elm down, and seizing my gun, I
shoots '^m, right and left : and would you be-
Ueve me, the horns of one was 5 feet llf inches
across, and the other over G feet ! "

Later in the evening, after more grog, he
related the same yarn ; but the horns had grown
considerably, until, just as he was going away,
I asked him particularly what the dimensions of
those horns were.

" Well, as far as I can remember, captain, one

88

EXCURSION TO GRAND FALLS.

..:!;i

\ ill

was just 9 feet 4i inches, and the other nearly
lUfeet!"

The next morning, June IGth, a party of otticers
and myself, taking advantage of a short s^ell
that our poor worn-out engines required, started
up the river in the steam-cutter to visit the Grand
Falls, which few white men have seen. The
same afternoon we reached a desirable camping-
ground, twelve miles I'rom the ship, and ahoiit
two from the Bishop's Fall. The scenery on the
Exploits is monotonous, and not remarkable at
first. The river is a very fine one, about a mile
broad at the mouth. It gradually narrows to
half a mi.le, which it. maintains for ten miles.
The banks are well timbered, but most of the
best pine-trees have been already cut doAvii.
Bishop's Fall is formed by a succession of cas-
cades, and presents a fine appearance. The
total height is about 20 feet. Above the Fall is
a long " steady " or stretch of smooth water for
several miles, till the Great Battling Brook, ;i
tributary to the main stream, is reached, after
which rapids agair. commence. We fished be-
low the Falls without success, for w^e were too
early for the salmon. The rocks forming the

BLACK FLIES.

89

Fall are heavily scored by i(3e, and are as smooth
and slippery as glass. AVhilst examining them
I came across a young seal. The young rascal
showed his teeth, so I killed him with a stone, and
kept his skin. This kind of seal whelps in the
fresh w\ater, and does not, I imagine, descend to
the sea ; at least we met with many seals the next
day, with their cubs, several miles up the river.
Returning to our camp, we found the tent
pitched, fire lighted, and tea ready, and we
looked forward to refreshment and repose ; but
alas ! there was none of it, for the black Hies
were masters of the situation. They were in
millions, and attacked us from all Cjuarters, not-
withstanding repeated applications of tar and
oil, until we had to take refuge in the smoke
of our fire, where we passed a miserable time,
with our eyes running with water, mingled
with orease and tar. We endeavoured in vain
to make ourselves comfortable for the night ;
but the flies got into our eyes, ears, and mouth,
mingled with our food and tea, and generally
made our lives a burden to us. Darkness set
in, and we flattered ourselves we should have
peace ; but there was no peace for the wicked.

90

IX A CANOE ON THE EXPLOITS.

<mK

'1

The Hies disappeared, Init the mosquitoes took
their phice. The tent wus stifiingly hot, and
we tried to sleep outside ; but it was all the
same, for no sleep was to be had, and muttered
but very excusable curses might Ijc heard from
some poor sufferer the whole night long. It has
always been a wonder to me what these brutes
are put into the world for, and why they cannot
l)e satisfied with taking one's blood, to whicli
they are heartily welcome, without poisoning
one also : it's one of those things no fellow can
understand.

With early dawn we were all astir, and after
a refreshing plunge in the river, and a cup of
coffee, Cochrane and I started in a canoe to
explore the river, and, if possible, reach the
Grand Falls. Some of the youthful members
of our party undertook to bathe, to the horror
and amazement of a worthy settler, who had
accompanied us in the capacity of pilot for the
river, and who boasted that he had been thirty
years in the country without washing.

To follow the canoe : we carried her over
the rocks and launched her on the waters above
the Bishop's Fall, and sometimes paddling, some-

SEALS.

91

times walking for oiglit miles, reached the Great
liuttliiig Brook, where we stopped to huich
and fish. This is a .'iiie suhiion-river, Ijiit there
were no fish in it a^ that time. Tim Indians
showed us the pool where they s])oared the
salmon in the jjreeding season ; but that was all
the satisfaction we got, so we crossed the main
river and landed on the opposite shore to walk
to the Falls, as the Indians said the rapids were
too strong to pole against. The bank was
sloping and rocky, and covered with ])usli, so
that it took us three weary hours to reach the
rapids, from which a trail led through the
woods to the Grand Falls. Numerous seals
reposed upon the rocks or disported themselves
in the whirling rapids, shouting to each other
with notes of alarm at our approach : the fond
mothers Avere generally accompanied by their
young, whom they tenderly guarded. The
river at this place took a sharp bend to the
right, and the scenery at once became more
weird and p-rand. Followino- the trail throuoh

o o o

the woods, we now approached the Grand Falls,
the roar of which we could plainly hear. Occa-
sional glimpses of the river far beneath us could

92

GRAND FALLS.

Spill 'ti-

ll

I

be had through tho trees, .showing a mass of
foaming, eddying water dashing between pre-
cipitous banks on either hand. Guided ])y tlio
ear, we now scrambled tlirough the busx and
presently found ourselves in sight of the Falls,
when a glorious view presented itself. I must
confess that we were prepared for a disappoint-
ment, after many of like nature in this and
other countries ; but the scene before us fully
answered, if it did not exceed, our expectations.
Looking upwards to the right was a roaring-
torrent broken by the black rocks, whose heads
could now and then be seen. Abreast of where
we stood the stream was divided by a thickly
wooded islet, whereon thousands of gulls had
built their nests ; the parent birds flew round
wath loud discordant cries, adding in the roar
of the waterfall to the weirdness of the scene.
Below the islet the waters met, and, wedged in
by precipitous rocks on either side, plunged in
a succession of cascades into the seething cal-
dron beneath.

Seating ourselves beside the fall, we con-
templated this fine sight — not a soul to inter-
fere with us. Here were no touting loafers

Til

to offe

.•I dollfi
ments
the Hii
it. Lo
Possi
we slial
a hotel
time, le
without
land, ur
l)oen th(
have se*
Indians
view nil
below tl
disj)08al
for a si
I'ocks, an
before st,
The w,
feet, but
I should
than 50

gorge.

]

THK FINEST SIGHT IN NEWFOUNULAND. 93

to oftor to " take you under the Jalk for half
a dollnr," as at Niagara ; no quack advertise-
mentf=» defacing the rocks, as may be seen on
the Hudson river : all remained an God made
it. Long may it be so.

Possibly with the completion of the railway
we shall have a stati<jn at Exploits river, with
a hotel at the Grand Falls ; but in the mean-
time, let us rest content that we have seen,
without question, the finest sight in Newfound-
land, untouched by the hand of man. It has
l)een the privilege of but few white men to
have seen these Falls, and only one of our
Indians had seen them before. A very fine
view must Ije obtained l)oth from above and
l)elow the Falls, but the limited time at our
disposal prevented our doing more than resting
for a short half- hour on the spray -covered
rocks, and taking a rough, sketch of the scene,
before starting on our wearisome walk back.

The whole height of the Falls is given at 145
feet, l)ut of this a good deal is broken water.
I should estimate the largest fall at not more
than 50 feet, and perhaps as many across the
gorge. But the beauty of the Falls is not so

94 CAPABILITIES OF THE EXPLOITS COUNTRY.

mucli Id their height as in the immense body of
water compressed into this space, and in the
general wiklness of the pLace. Our trudge back
was not pleasant nor interesting to relate : -walk-
ing on the side of one's foot, with one leg in
the water, climbing over boulders and snags,
for seven hours, with no food or whisky left,
gets monotonous, and glad were w^e to find
ourselves gliding down -stream and shooting
rapids in a birch-bark canoe ; and dreading
another night witli the mosquitoes, we" reached
the ship the same night.

There is, in my liumble opinion, much valu-
able land on the banks of the Exploits capable
of cultivation and of supporting a considerable
population ; it seems a pity it is not more settled.
The climate is mild as compared with the sea-
coast. The sons of fishermen might be encour-
ap;ed to settle and cultivate the land, instead of
following the precnrious living adopted by their
parents. Now that the fisheries are unquestion-
ably insufficient to maintain an increasing popu-
lation, this becomes every day a more important
question. Besides, the men need not give up
altogether their belovod fishing ; they might

still pi
to theii
year,
trade, a
settling
lutely 1
the vicii
against
and mos
witli a Si
only too
clearing ;
a man at
fire, and
as may
sor's saw]
first oh
"ght itse
fires, tilery
hurn. A.^
jwssible
of tliat o]

m-ei

any (le

leared a\
^Wrty am

PLAGUE or BLACK FLIES.

95

still prosecute the Labrcador fishery, returning
to their homes by the river in the fall of the
year. Some very fine craft, suitable for this
trade, are built upon the Exploits. But before
settling in this part of the country, it is abso-
lutely necessary to clear away the timber in
the vicinity of a settlement to secure one's self
against forest-fires, and to get rid of the flies
and mosquitoes, both of which interfere greatly
with a settler's comfort and prospects, and are
only too common on the Exploits river. By
clearing away the woods round about his house,
a man at once places himself in safety as regards
fire, and the flies disappear to a great extent,
as may be seen at Messrs Vailance & Win-
sor's sawmill at the mouth of the river. The
first objection — that of fires — will probably
right itself shortly; for, at the present rate of
fires, there won't be much more timber left to
burn. As for the flies, it would be simply im-
possible for any one to settle on the lianks
of that or any other river in the island, with
any degree of comfort, unless the bush be first
cleared away. Some of the old settlers of
thirty and forty j^ears' standing told us that

96

A FOREST-FIRE.

1

I

tliey were bitten just as Ladly as when they
first came into the country, and their bleeding-
hands and faces testified to the fact. The
wretched women and chiklren could not leave
their houses to work in the garden unless it
was blowing a gale or raining in torrents ; and
these pests last from June till October, the best
months in the year.

June ISth. — Proceeded to Hall Bay. Found
a forest-fire had been burning for more than a
week, devastating an immense tract of country,
and leaving many poor families destitute and
quite homeless. It was indeed sad to see so
many poor women and children who had lost
everything they possessed, and yet to be able
to do so little for them. However, we were
able to be of some assistance, and our opportune
arrival cheered the poor things up. Many came
on board for a little assistance. AVe also sent
six carpenters and twelve blue-jackets to assist
in rel^uilding their houses for them. Fortu-
nately the saw-mill had escaped, so lumber was
plentiful, and our fellows soon had the frames
of several houses up. Providentially no lives
were lost, l^ut some families had a narrow

escape

hnnbe]

women

to do t

the per

were h

but wh

lumbere

tlie lum'

PKOPOSED RAILWAY.

97

escape. All the men were away up the river
lumbering when the fire broke out, and the
women had to do all the work, and had enough
to do to save their children. Consequently all
the personal effects of the unfortunate lumberers
were lost, many having nothing in the world
but what they stood up in. Most of these
lumberers are Canadians. They all say that
the lumber trade is declining, that the country
is a hard one to get a living in, and they talk
of returning to their native land as soon as

The whole country on the north bank of
Indian Brook is now burnt, presenting a most
desolate appearance, and the beauty of that
picturesque stream has departed — never to
return.

The site for the terminus of the proposed
railway is at the head of Hall's Bay, between
tlie south and west brooks ; and should the
railway be ever carried thus far, this place will
become of great importance. The anchorages
are not first-rate, but that at the head of the
bay is safe, and there is deep water close to the
shore, so that the largest ships could lie along-

G

jj j m»^''

98

A COPPER-MINE.

side the wharfs, which would ])e built for the
shipment of copper-ore, &c., as at Little Buy
and other places along the coast.

June 23c?. — We left Hall's Bay, where our
presence has been a perfect godsend, and pro-
ceeded to Little Bay Mine, a wonderfully snug
little port, perfectly landlocked and sheltered
from all winds. Large vessels can lie alongside
the pier, and two fine steamers were loading
copper-ore in linlk at the time of our visit.
The Company appear to be doing well, judging
by the number of steamers which call here for
cargoes. The mine is 400 feet deep, and the
shaft perpendicular. About 800 men are cm-
ployed at the works, and the settlement is hall
a mile from the works, picturesquely situated
at the head of the bay. Escorted by Mr
Guzman, the manager, we descended the mine,
and watched the operation of drilling and blast-
ing the glittering metal. This is hoisted up to
the mouth of the pit in the usual way, and
from thence delivered by a tram-railroad direct
into the vessel's hold. This mine is well venti-
lated, and as no accumulation of gas ever takes
place, the lives of the miners are as free from

danger
a -day (j
are obJi*
from til
^ory Jit
suspect,
^^ery nea
magazine
f^ug tren
but a nii
to bury t]
them.

Havinof

Guzman {

establishec

<^*ompany

called by

iiiarked on

is beinpf

■^iderable

w

' One man

''"'■^ defied Mr

DISPUTES.

99

danger as possible. They earn from 5s. to 6s.
a-day (nominal), overseers 9s. ; but as the men
are obliged to get their provisions, clothing, &c.,
from the store attached to the establishment,
very little cash ever reaches their pockets, I
suspect. The fire at Hall's Bay approached
very near to Little Bay, and at one time the
magazine was seriously threatened. The miners
duo; trenches at the back of their huts — who
but a miner would think of such a thing? —
to bury their effects should the fire come upon
them.

Having settled some disputes between Mr
Guzman and his people, some of whom had
established themselves on land belonging to the
Company,^ we proceeded to another mining port,
called by the miners Kobert's Arm, but not
marked on our charts. A small copper-mine
is being worked near Robert's Arm, and con-
siderable money has been expended on it, the

;. (

.sn

't '

\i ■

' One man had built his house below high-water mark, and
tliu^ detied Mr Guzman to touch him. Of course the sea came
round about tlie house every tide ; but being l)uilt on piles, it did
iiu luuiu. The case was referred to me for adjudication, and I
gave it in favour of the man for his ingenuity. I doubt if the
law could touch him in any case.

100

LITTLE BAY.

tramway alone being two miles long. It does
not, however, pay its expenses, and instead of
being a feeder to the mine at Little Bay, is a
drain upon it ; so it will soon in all probability
be closed,^

The harbour is one of the most beautiful
ones on the coast ; and although the approach
is somewhat intricate, it is sufficiently large
to accommodate half-a-dozen large ships if
moored. It is perfectly landlocked and steep-
to, with deep water and good holding-ground.
No man-of-war had ever entered it until H.M.S.
Contest's visit last year; so the surprise and
pleasure of the inhabitants may be well ima-
gined at seeing the Druid and the Fantome
lying peacefully at anchor within pistol-shot
of the rocks.

Another copper-mine is being worked in tlu'
south-west arm of Green Bay, and fresh dis-
coveries are being constantly made in the
neighbourhood. There is not the least doubt
that all the coast, from Hall's Bay northward,
is rich in minerals. Already most of it has
been taken up by speculators, who look foi-

1 It lias since been so.

m

PEOPLE DYING LIKE DOGS.

101

ward to the good time coming, when the
French shore question is settled, to work
their claims.

From this snug anchorage we proceeded along
the coast to the northward, touching at various
places, settling many disputes, and laying down
the law to those who pretended not to know it,
till we found ourselves again in St Anthony Har-
bour (July 3d). The harbour was so crowded
with schooners, we had great difficulty in thread-
ing our way amongst them. These vessels were
all waiting for a slant of wind to sail for the
coast of Labrador. Measles and diphtheria are
making sad havoc amongst these poor folk
at a small settlement called Goose Cove, six
miles from St Anthony : seventeen people have
died in the last three weeks from these causes.
TJiere is no doctor on any part of this coast,
and the ptople die like dogs, for it is impossible
for our surgeon to deal with an epidemic of this
sort during our flying visits from place to place.
The French doctors do what they can, but they
have enough to do to look after their own
people. Every French vessel carries a doctor,
who attends to their own folk, and, to a great

I

ill

IJLIW
ISII

102

PISTOLET BAY.

extent, to the English also, using their own
medicines and making no charge for them. All
honour to them for tlieir humanity ! A resident
doctor should certainly be sent to this forsaken
part of the coast. The poor people come any
distance to see our doctors, but we cannot re-
main long enough to be of much permanent good.

JulyUh. — Left St Anthony Harbour withe/ei'e??
sclioonc rs in tow ; several parted their hawsers
outside as the breeze freshened, and made sail,
dipping their colours, cheering, and firing their
seal-guns in acknowledgment of our assistance.
Arrived at Pistolet Bay the same afternoon.
No inhabitants could be seen here ; but the
people belonging to Ha Ha Bay, a short distance
across the isthmus, come over to bar the salmon-
rivers, three of which discharge into the bay,
as we saw where their weirs had been built.
This neighbourhood is about the worst on the
coast for quarrels between the French and
English fishermen, and should be constantly
visited.

Immense quantities of eider-duck breed in
Pistolet Bay, the only place I ever saw them
in Newfoundland. Thousands of these useful

BONNE BAY.

103

birds nest on the numerous islets scattered
about the bay undisturbed either by man or
vermin. Here a new industry awaits the set-
tler: the eggs and down of these birds might
be regularly collected as in Norway, and the
result could not fail to be a profitable under-
taking. It could hardly be maintained that
this industry " interfered with the French in
their fishing operations."

From this place we went round to Bonne
Bay on the west coast, and found the usual
quarrelling about land going on. The fact is, as
there is no magistrate on any part of this coast
since Captain Howarth's death, the law is set
at defiance, and there is no one but a solitary
})oliceman to enforce it.^ The French are en-
tirely answerable for this state of things, for
they have always protested against the appoint-
ment of magistrates on this coast, and we have
been weak enough to accede to it.

Hearing by telegraph that the French com-
modore was at Port Saunders in the Clorinde, I
left for that place on the 8th, arriving there the
same day.

1 This evil has, I hope, now been removed.

I

'■■U\.[\

t

■ IiHw

Ma

104

FRACAS AT ST GEORGES BAY.

Ill
l!nflill|h|

1

IHiR

Port Saunders is a first-rate ancliorago, and
conveniently near to Port au Choix, where tlie
Frencii have a large estaljlisliment and Severn I
ships. We were glad to find that in conse-
quence of our action last year the two fine
salmon-rivers at the head of Hawke's Bay were
alive with salmon, several of which were trans-
ferred to the Druid.

The two culprits who have Ijarrcd the rivers
for so many years fled into the woods at the
sight of the ship, leaving their nets upon the
strand.

In consequence of a telegram from the Gov-
ernor, I proceeded to St George's Bay on 13. li
July, to settle a matter there which caused a
good deal of excitement at the time both at
home and abroad. Some of the inhal)itants at
this place had lately refused to pay duties on
a cargo of goods imported from Nova Scotia.
alleging as an excuse that they were not repre-
sented in the local Parliament, and therefoiv
ought not to be taxed. Moreover, they claimed
that in so doing they had been supported by
the French commodore. This proved not to be
the case, although there appeared at the tiim

that as
11 good
the En^
of repre
tmtes ))
are obt£
liave do]
From
seldom \
is by u(
400 inlK
tor, vAara

lawless h
bave aim
only resK
and grow
Tlie v;
most fert
Tlie past
sbeep rais
of the wo
There u
of the ri
1 1

COD ROY.

105

to be some foimdation for the Htatement. Be
that as it may, the aftair naturally gave rise to
a good deal of tall-talk in the local and also in
the English papers, and resulted in the question
of representation and the appointment of magis-
trates being at last considered.^ If these results
are obtained, the fracas at St George's Bay will
have done much good.

From St George we went to Cod Roy, a place
seldom visited by a large ship, as the anchorage
is by no means a safe one. There are about
400 inhabitants at Cod Roy proper; no doc-
tor, clergyman, or magistrate. The people are a
lawless lot, as might be supposed. The French
have almost deserted the place, two Frenchmen
only residing on Cod Roy Island, where they fish,
and grow vegetables.

The valley of the Cod Roy river is one of the
most fertile and thriving portions of the island.
The pasturage is excellent, and the cattle and
sheep raised here are second to none in any part
of the world.

There is a scattered settlement on both Ijanks
of the river, mostly Roman Catholics.

' I believe they have since been appointecl.

The

'i 1

\i1^\

(

'■•i

i •

106

COD ROY.

I

llcv. Father ScarH has ri'sided amongst these
people for thirteen years, and is most deservedly
loved and respected. The river has a bar across
it, and must l)e entered Ly a narrow channel,
having nine feet water in it, a little to the soutli
of the mouth proper. It is a broad and swift
stream, 1)ut shallow, with numerous sand-bars
in it. It is navigable for small craft for three
or four miles, beyond wliich only flat-botuomed
punts can ascend. The C^od Roy was once ftmioiis
for salmon ; but many years of wholesale netting
have nearly exhausted it, and the yield is now
barely sufficient for the people residing on the
banks. The main channel is narrow, and is
so thoroughly barred by stake and trap nets
ingeniously set, that few fish can pass to tlie
spawning - beds above. Being anxious to ex-
plore the river, I ascended it for twelve miles,
accompanied by some of the officers, but not a
fish could we see. Fortunately we had removed
some of the nets on our way up ; and the same
night, whilst camped on the banks of the river,
we heard the fish jumping in the pools. Tiie
next morning I hooked five grilse, and killed
four of them before breakfast.

PORT AU BASQUE.

10'

From Cod Koy we once more rouiKU'd Cape
R;iy, the western limit of the French fi.shing-
n round, and cast anchor in the snug harbour of
Port au Basque.

Not far from the anchorage, across a narrow
neck of land, is a beautiful salmon-river called
Grand Bay Brook, famous for salmon and trout
of enormous size. I followed the stream from
its source to the sea. There are three most })ic-
turesque falls about two or three miles apart,
the finest being the one farthest from the sea.
Tlic river winds through a fine grass country,
and a few settlers go there in the summer to
cut hay. The best land and the best fishing
me between the second and third falls from the
mouth. Whilst at this place we received orders
to meet the United States steamer Vandalia at
Long Harbour, Fortune Bay, on the 25tli July ;
so litiving first filled up with coal at Sydney,
Cape Breton Island, we anchored once more in
our old berth at the head of Long Harbour on
the day appointed. We had thus made the
complete circuit of the island — having called at
every port worth going to, many on the south
coast twice over — in exactly three months.

i-'fl

108

ACCIDENT TO THE DRUID.

iiiiil

1

"311

i^fter a pleasant meeting with our American
cousins, during which we discussed imaginary
" outrages" over our cigars and champagne, we
parted — the Yandalia for the States, whilst we
continued our cruise. The same afternoon an
accident befell the Druid which very nearly
brought our cruising to a sudden and unex-
pected conclusion, and necessitated our gclag to
Halifax for repairs. A few days at that charming
spot soon put us to rights again, and by the 20tli
August we were again on our station endeavour-
ing to grope our way into Channel Harbour in
one of the thickest fogs I ever remember.
Altliouo;h close off the harbour-mouth — so close
that we could hear the breakers all round us—
we could see nothing. Our boats, looking for
the entrance, were as helpless as ourselves. lu
this forlorn position a man fell overboard, and
the engines, which had been a"*"- rest for some
time previously, could not be moved. How-
ever, by firing guns we attracted some fisher-
men, who came off to pilot us in; and liaviug
recovered the man, we managed to creep in,
This fog had lasted, with but slight intermission,
iov five weeks, enveloping sea and sky in one

GROPING OUR WAY.

109

(lamp raw mist. The fishermen had been un-
able to dry their fisli owing to the absence of
sun, and had lost almost all their catch for the
season.

These fogs are terribly depressing, besides
beino; most dangerous. They come on without
any warning, obscuring everything fifty yards
beyond the ship. The best navigator is then
helpless, and the only thing to be done is
to grope along, taking every possible precau-
tion, and trust to Providence. In this way we
groped our way right into Harbour Briton one
(lay, firing guns^ sounding fog-horns, blowing
steam-whistles, &c., the hoarse roar of the latter
being bellowed back from the cliffs, and aftbrd-
ing our onljr guide. Our boats \vere all away,
but got lost themselves. At last we agreed
we could go no farther. We could hear dogs
barking, cocks crowing, but could see nothing.
Presently a boat came to us out of the gloom.
" Where is Harbour Briton ?" we hailed. " You're
in Harbour Briton," was the satisfactory answer,
and a few yards farther on our anchor was
dropped ; but the boats did not find their
way in for some hours afterwards. After

.11

i :I.

110

RETUEN TO ST JOHNS.

cruisino' aloiiff the south coast for another
fortnight, we returned to St John's on Sep-
tember 6th.

i^' ;i

ft!-

Having received a long string of protests and
complaints from my French colleague, who had
in the meanwhile sailed for France, we again
started on the 26tli September for the north-east
coast to inquire into the same. The weather
had now changed for the worse. Constant
gales, accompanied by blinding squalls, delayed
us somewhat, and we gladly took refuge once
more in our old quarters in Robert's Arm ; and
it was not till the 15th Octobei: that we reached
Kirpon, the northernmost point of the island,
where most of the " outrages " were said to
have occurred. Having investigated these mat-
ters, we returned to St John's, and took our
final departure from the hospitable shores of
Newfoundland a few days afterwards.

Ill

CHAPTER VI.

THE ABOKIGINES OF NEWFOUNDLAND — THE MICMACS —
TRAPPING — GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF C;AME BIRDS
— ANIMALS AND FISH, ETC.

I BEG to inform the reader tliat the next few
chapters will be devoted to sport with the
gun, rod, or rifle. They form a series of let-
ters written to the ' Field ' under the nom de
'plume of "Mariner"; and they were subse-
quently printed in pamphlet form in St John's.
This little work ran through two editions, and
is now sold out ; but the letters, written fresh-
ly at the time, recall vividly to my mind the
various scenes I have attempted to describe.
1 therefore make no apology for reproducing
them now, wdth a few alterations, wdiich suIj-
sequent experience makes desirable.

112

ABORIGINES OF NEWFOUNDLAND.

Of the original inhabitants of Newfoundland
no trace remains, except a few stone arrow-heads,
which are occasionally discovered on the shores
of Grand Pond and Ked Indian Lake. All that
is known of them is, that they were a hardy race,
living by hunting and trapping, as do their suc-
cessors, the Micmac Indians, at the present day.

In the year 1822, Lieutenant Buchan, of
H.M.S. Grasshopper, went up the Exploits
river in order to discover some of the Eed
Indians, with a view to their civilisation ; but
with no results. A Red Indian womnn was
captured near one of the Ijrooks running into
Notre Dame Bay, and her husband was said to
have been shot at the time : she was broudit
to St John's, but died of consumption. Another
woman, named Shawnadithit, was captured on
the Exploits river, and was also brought to
St John's, where she lived for several years,
It is certain that there are none of the tribe
left ; in all probability the last of them was
killed by the Micmacs. Of these latter, there
are probably not more than 100 in the whole
island, who are distributed about the coast,
mostly at Hall's Bay and the Bay of Despair,

INDIANS.

113

and even these are fast dying out. These
Indians, who emigrated originally from Nova
Scotia, live entirely by hunting and trapping,
by which they earn a good deal of money, and
are in all respects more independent than the
wliite trappers, whom they hold in supreme
contempt. They are far better hunters and
trappers, and are not to be excelled at lum-
bering, boat - building, poling up rivers, and
all the incidents of a backwoodsman's craft.
They know every inch of the country, and will
follow a trail Avitli the sagacity of an animal ;
and, as a rule, are fairly sober and honest, al-
though they have the credit of being exactly the
reverse. The Indian leaves his home in early
'jpring, and takes to the woods in quest of
beavers, otters, foxes, and marten-cats. Beaver-
skins pay best, as they are most plentiful, a good
trapper being able to kill as many as thirty to
forty in a week, and probably average two a-day
through the season. The following is the average
value of skins, taking one year with another ;
but the price of fur fluctuates so much that
these quotations must be considered only ap-
proximate : —

H

114

FURS.

.£15 0

0

. 8 0

0

1 10

0

. 0 8

0

1 10

0

. 0 IG

0

2 0

0

. 5 0

0

0 15

0

. 2 10

0

0 15

0

Black fox (very rare) .
Silver fox . . . .
Grey or patch fox
Common red fox . ,

Otter (according to quality) .
Beaver (by weight)
Black bear (according to size)
White bear ( do. do. )

Caribou (not much used)
Wolf (Government price)
Marten-cat (a kind of sable) .

The Government offers a reward of twelve
dollars for each wolf-skin ; but it is not often
claimed, owing to the extraordinary sagacity of
the animal, which makes it difficult to shoot,
trap, or poison him. I believe also that wolves
are scarce. I have seen their tracks, but I have
never come across one of them.

Having obtained all the skins he can pack on
his back or stow in his canoe, the Indian, as the
winter draws near, establishes himself on the
banks of a lake where the deer are in the habit
of crossing; in their annual mio-rations from
north to south ; he then kills what he wants
for his winter's supply of meat, and makes tracks
for home, where he disposes of his furs to th ■

trader;

lasses,

TJie 111

tleer an

Ifeel c

mals si;

not exii

interest

they rec

openly b

ter, for t

winter t

starved.

Jishmen

heeu g-uil

some yci

leavin

'^'iie onJi

wood rein

only to tJ

I'oam ove

sftnds; th

mentioned

—the latte

of a real sj

1

(

SLAUGHTER OF GAME.

115

traders in exchange for pork, flour, tea, mo-
lasses, tobacco, and suchlike necessaries of life.
The Indians arc often accused of slaughtering
deer and beaver in a wholesale way, but of this
I feel confident they are guiltless. These ani-
mals supply them with food, and they could
not exist without them, therefore it is their
interest to protect them, and they only kill what
they require. Not so the white settlers, who
openly boast of the number of deer they slaugh-
ter, for the sake of their horns and skin, in the
winter time when the poor animak are half
starved. I am sorry to say that parties of Eng-
lishmen, calling themselves sportsmen, have also
been guilty of this butchery, one party having,
some years ago, massacred over one hundred,
leaving their carcasses to rot upon the ground.

The oidy deer in the island is the caribou, or
wood reindeer — a noble animal, inferior in size
only to the moose and wapiti. These animals
roam over the barrens or highlands by thou-
sands ; they may be killed in the manner above
mentioned, or stalked in true Highland fashion,
—the latter method being the only one worthy
of a real sportsman.

«l

116

BIRDS.

Foremost among game birds is the grouse, or,
as it is called in the country, partridge, and is
identical with the Norwegian ryper. Its jjroper
name is Lagopus alhus, or willow-grouse. The
ptarmigan Lagopus rupestris, called in New-
foundland the rock-partridge, is also found in
some parts of the island, but is more rare, and
is similar in appearance and habits to the Scotch
ptarmigan. Grouse are numerous all over the
island ; the coveys average from eight to twelve,
and afford good sport, except in the interior,
where they are so tame they may be knocked
down with a stick. The best bird for the talie
is the Esquimaux curlew (Numenius horealis),
which makes its apjDearance on the shores of
Labrador and the northern part of Newfound-
land in August, preparatory to its annual migra-
tion to warmer latitudes. Unlike the larger
species common in the British Isles, these birds
are delicious eating, whether cooked fresh or
potted. They arrive in immense flocks, feed-
ing greedily upon the blue-berries, which are
plentiful on the barrens, coming down to the
sea-shore at low water, and returnino- as the
tide rises. So plump are they that they some-

n

ESQUIMAUX CURLEW.

117

times Inirst on falling to the ground ; and so
stupid, tliat, after firing both barrels into a flock,
the remainder invariably wheel round to see
what is the matter. In this way many hun-
dreds are killed, and if not a very sportsmanlike
proceeding, it is certainly excusable, as the birds
are highly esteemed. By September they have
all left the country, probably for the swampy
marshes about New Orleans, from whence, 1
suspect, but few return.

118

MM

■M

CHAPTER VII.

THE FAUNA OF NEWFOUNDLAND.

Wild geese arc numerous in all parts of the
island — breeding in the ponds of the interior,
and also in the neighbourhood of Cape Race.
There are, I believe, two kinds ; but the only one
I have ever seen is the Canada goose (Bernida
canadensis), a very handsome bird with a black
neck. They are easily domesticated, and cross
readily with the ordinary farmyard goose, the
result being the mongrel goose so much esteemed
by epicures. Wild-goose shooting in Newfound-
land is really splendid sport, and requires more
careful stalking than deer-stalking, the birds
being excessively wary, and always having a
sentry posted, like the rest of their kind. The
best chance is on the wing, when the Indians,

and r

wit hi 1

tJio "

siglit,

the (r

down (

chief f(

A curie

til em, c

it for a

towards

One niji

the gees

is no d(j

black du

plentiful

saw tlien]

".shell bi

Loons

and hear(

*^nipe are

Avalon,

CALLING DOWN WILD GEESE.

119

^mg

and many wliite men also, can call them down
within «hot. The plan adopted is to imitate
the "cry" of the bird, and, keeping out of
siiriit, to wave a wliite handkerchief to and fro ;
the geese, if within hearing, invariably fly
down to the ruse, probaldy taking the handker-
chief for one of their species flapping its wings.
A curious thing also is that a dog will attract
them, especially if it be a red one : they take
it for a fox, and, instead of flying away, come
towards it. I have seen this several times.
One man told me he had seen a fox calling
the geese to him by imitating their cry. There
is no doubt the fox is cunning enough to do
it, and I believe they are fools enough to re-
spond. Of wild ducks there are several kinds.
The commonest and the best for the table is the
hhick duck, a very wary bird. Eider-ducks are
plentiful in Pistolet Bay, the only place I ever
saw them ; and mergansers, called by the natives
"shell birds," are also very common.

Loons (the great northern diver) may be seen
and heard upon any of the lakes of the interior.
•Snipe are tolerably plentiful in the Peninsula of
Avalon, but very rare elsewhere. Sandpipers

il

W'V

m

120

BKARS.

of many kinds abound, also several kinds of
plover ; but woodcocks are unknown, wliich is the
more remarkal)lc, seeing the splendid coverts
for them. I believe they might be imported
from Nova Scotia or Cape Breton. Black-ganic
ought also to do well, as they thrive in Norway,
an almost similar country.

There is only one kind of bear in the island,
the common l)lack species. They are num-
erous in the south coast, especially in the
neighbourhood of Hare Bay, the Bay of De-
spair, White Bear Bay, &c. — in fact, those parts
which are uninlial3ited, or very sparsely so — also
about Hawke's Bay, on the west coast, and on
the coast of Labrador. Polar bears are some-
times met with on the ice in the Straits of
Belleisle, but very rarely on the coast. An old
settler told me of an adventure he had with one
of these animals. He saw a white bear asleep
on the ice, so he went after him with his heavy
seal - gun, and accompanied by a little dog.
When they got close to, the dog began barking,
and woke the bear, who, taking in the situation,
went for the man. The seal-gun missed lire.
as they often do ; the man turned to run, but

the I)
F;i]lij
mind
■ The I
liim t
so like
possild
Wol
not be
supposi
have 1]
turbed,
for seve
luirm ai
not so
starvec
neighbo
ment we
these b
certain
to the
curse of
I teep sh(
brutes a;
^■) blubber.

WILD DOGS.

121

the bear overtook liini and knocked him down.
Falling on his back, he had the presence uf
mind to feign death, and hohl in his breath.
The 1)ear smelt his face, and then, supposing
him to be dead, walked off; and the man did
so likewise, in the opposite direction, as soon as
possil)le.

Wolves are said to be common ; but I do
not believe they are so numerous as people
suppose. My reason for saying so is, that I
have never known the carcass of a deer dis-
turljed, altliougli it has remained on the ground
for several days. I do not think they do so much
harm as they are credited with, and certainly
not so much as the packs of half- wild, half-
starved curs which infest the country in the
neighbourhood of the settlements. If Govern-
ment were to give a reward for every one of
these brutes that was shot, only allowing a
certain number to the settlers, it would be more
to the purpose. They are, without doubt, the
curse of the country, no farmer being able to
keep sheep or cattle for fear of them. These
brutes are not fed, except occasionally on seal-
blubber, when it can be got, and are left to get

■i

122

HORSES.

tlieir own living. They are supposed to have a
huge log tied round their necks, to prevent
them hunting sheep ; but this law is not en-
forced except in the towns.

The settlers keep them for hauling lumber out
of the woods in the winter time, and no doubt
they are useful in that way ; but they slioiild
])e kept in proper order, their numbers limited,
and their owners made responsible for them.
Horses will of course do this work far better,
as I have seen at Hall's Bay, but a horse is
a more expensive animal to keep. 1 don't
suppose many of the poor settlers have ever
seen a horse. One was landed some years ago
on Merasheen Island in Placentia Bay : it was
a white beast, and the settlers thought it was
a cariljou, and shot it. The caribou turn white
in winter — as do the hares. These latter are
the same as the blue Scotch hares, which they
resemble, but are larger, and are tolerably
numerous all over the island. The American
hare (Lepus americanus), commonly called rab-
bit, was only introduced a few years ago. They
have now spreatl all over the island, and
must form a very acceptable change of diet

STARVING SETTLERS.

123

to the settler and liis poor liilf-starved, Ijadly
clotlied family.

On our visits round the island, we met with
sights enough to sicken us, and raa]:e us ashamed
to think that these poor creatures were British
siil)jects like ourselves. On many parts of
Liibrador, the west coast of Newfoundland,
and on parts of the north-east coast, the j)eople
are starving every winter, though it is the cus-
tom in St John's to laugh at these reports as
gross exaggerations. I can only say that we
have seen this state of things repeatedly : any
one who has followed our cruise round the coast
cannot fail to have remarked it ; but as long as
I'verything is sacrificed to the fishing, and these
dogs permitted, there is no help for it. But for
these brutal dogs, ?heep-farming might be en-
couraged, and the women iaught to spin and
weave the wool, to make clothes for themselves
and their little ones, as they do in the High-
lands of Scotland, instead of o-oing- about in that
climate scantily clothed, and their wretched chil-
dren half naked, because they are too poor to
buy any clothes, or the material to make them.
These poor creatures used to fiock on board to

124

CONDITION OF THE SETTLERS,

see the doctor at every port, asking for medi-
cines, when it was patent to all that what they
wanted was nourishino; food and warm clothino-
in lieu of molasses and fish to eat, with barely
sufficient clothes for decency, and those of the
most paltry material. I may be accused of ex
aggeration in these details, and naturally so;
for there is hardly any one living in the
island who could or would admit the facts, he-
cause they cannot have come under their obser-
vation. If any magistrate or doctor, where
there is one round the coast, was asked if it
was the case, he would probably say no ; be-
cause it is not so at the principal places
where maojistrates and doctors are to be found.
But ask the clergymen, who go to the outposts,
their opinion ; ask Mr Curling — a gentleman
who shoulders his knapsack, and tramps througli
the snow for days together, sharing his frugal
meal with the poor creatures he visits, — he
could describe in far more graphic terms than
I can pretend to, the state of these unfortunates.
But naval officers have far better opportunities
than any one else of observation, seeing that
they are constantly visiting places that many

Newfo

tainly

Avithin

100,00

out of ,

Possj

persons

money ^

require

tribute j

her Maj

gift, free

be most

'Me to s]

gmtefullj

goats, it

the poor]

his own

fhigs ! ll

subject, ;j

A^cxt,

to sa]

'( (lelusi'j

of the mi

•'raying tlij

A PROPER OBJECT OF CHARITY.

125

ledi-
blicy
ling,
xrely
r the
f cx-
■f so;
L tlie
,s, be-
obser-
wbere
I if it
) ; be-
places
found,
tposts,
lleman
irougli
frugal

,-k

than
unates.
L unities
■i(r that
t many

LS

Newfoundlanders have never heard of, and cer-
tainly never seen. And yet I believe I am
within the mark in saying that no less tl an
100,000 dollars is paid annually in pauper relief,
out of a total population of 180,000 !

Possibly some of the many rich and charitable
persons who are in the habit of sending out
money or clothing to black savages, who don't
require it, might, out of their superfluity, con-
tribute a trifle to these poor folk. The oflicers of
lier Majesty's ships would gladly distribute any
gift, free of expense ; blankets and flannel would
be m'^st acceptable ; the few blankets we were
able to spare from our private stores were always
gratefully appreciated. If the settlers could keep
goats, it would be a help to them, a goat being
the poor man's cow, — a hardy beast, that gets
his own living. But, before all, death to the
(logs! I have, however, been led away by this
subject, and must return to sport.

Next, with regard to fishing.

To say that rod-fishing in Newfoundland is

a delusior and a snare would perhaps be wide

of tlie mark, and y^et I have no hesitation in

; '"^ayiug that any one going out to that country

i

ill

n

126

SEA-TROUT FISHING.

for the purpose of fishing only, would be dis-
appointed : as regards salmon he most certainly
would. Sea-trout fishing is merely a question
of l)eing on the right spot at the right time, in
which case the sport is second to none ; but if
the fish are not running, the sport is nil.

I speak from three years' experience on the
coast, during which I have had unusual facih-
ties for prosecuting this fascinating sport, hav-
ing wetted a line in almost every likely-looking
river round the island, and a few in Labrador.
The first year's experience proved that it was
of no use fishing for sea-trout much before the
20th July (except perhaps at Biscay Bay, near
Trepassey, an early river), about which time
these fish arrive on the coast and begin to
ascend the rivers. From that time the sport
steadily improves, and some fine baskets can
be made. Our second and third cruise told
precisely the same tale ; although in one case
we went round l3y the south and west coasts.
descending by the north — on the other two.
vice versd.

Salmon - fishing with the fly may be pro-
nounced a failure owing to two causes, — one

of wh:
Tliu fi]
salmon
ing wii
defiance
tlie wre
tlie Iar<
only a i
is, that 1
I have '
but only
and abou
tliis repr(
for ten a r
likely po(
nvers ha
(lisportinc
would no
foundlu:^
cated to t
youngstei
''ii't' the ex
^^^■«', that
water jus
liver, or i

SALMON-FISHING.

127

of which may be remedied, the other not.
The first is, because the whole of the fine
sahnon - rivers are ruined by barring, sweep-
ing with nets, traps, weirs, or mill-dams, in
defiance of all huvs and proclamations, till
the wretched fish are almost exterminated, all
the large breeding -fish being captured, and
only a few grilse escaping. The other reason
is, that the fish do not as a rule rise to the fly.
I have occasionally taken grilse with the fly,
but only five the first season, eight the second,
and about the same number the third. However,
this represented many days' hard work, w\ading
for ten and tw^elve hours a-day, and fishing every
Hkely pool. In some of these places, where the
rivers had not been barred, the fish would be
disporting themselves all over the pool, but
would not look at a fly. I conclude the New-
foiuuUaud salmon have not as yet been edu-
cated to the fly, though sometimes an occasional
youngster does rise and get hooked ; but these
are the exceptions to the rule. I believe, liow-
I ever, that if j^ou have the luck to be on the
water just as a fresh run of salmon enter the
liver, or if you can spare the time to camp by

128

REMEDY FOR " BARRING " THE RIVERS.

■I

I

the river and bide your time, good sport may
be had with fly.

In corroboration of these remarks, I may state
that a friend of mine has since enjoyed wonder-
ful sport on one of the Newfoundland rivers.
I cLaim to have indirectly assisted in his suc-
cess, for this river was barred and netted
in a shameful manner when I visited it ; and
although I killed some grilse above the nets,
we saw no large salmon. We removed tlic
obstacles, and would have confiscated them,
but for the intercession of the priest in charge
of the settlement. In consideration of liis
reverence's assurance that he would excom-
municate any subsequent ofi"ender, I returned
the nets to the owners. In this case the
result has exceeded my most sanguine ex-
pectations.

With regard to the question of barring the
rivers, this evil might be easily remedied. A
few "guardians" stationed round the cotast,
paid by the Government as in Canada, would
soon make a clean sweep of the nets, or at all
events oblige them to be set in a legitimate
manner, with a close-time as in Scotlantl. It

this n
Salmo
far inr
sportsn
gladly
present
«ire sea]
Tlie ■
u net {
above hi
another
is of sm
fish can :
to be can
counted
course a]
to be set
across tlii
N'ewfoun
I'each tlu
the deep

PROCESS OF BARRING.

129

this measure were adopted, so prolific is the
Sal mo mlar, that the rivers would soon be so
far improved as to be eagerly sought after by
sportsmen from the old country, who would
gladly pay the "guardians" themselves. At
present, with a few notable exceptions, they
arc scarcely worth wetting a line in.

The process of barring a river is to stretch
a net across from bank to bank, staked up
above high-water mark. This is backed up by
another net, placed directly behind it, wdiicli
is of smaller mesh than the first, so that if a
fish can manage to pass the first net, he is sure
to be caught in the second. In this way I once
counted seven nets, one behind the other. Of
course all this is illegal, the law permitting a net
to be set from the bank extendinoj to one-third
across the water, but this would never suit the
Newfoundlander. Even if his net does not
reach the opposite bank, he takes care to bar
the deep-water channel, up wdiicli fish always
go ; and not content with that, he sets his net
I with a "trap" at the end, or middle, as the
case may be, so that nothing can escape. I
will endeavour to show my meaning by two

130

BARRING A RIVER WITH NETS.

BARRING A RIVER.

131

sketches, sliowirig the trap at the end and also
in the middh' of the net.

The plans A, B, and C will show three of
the methods of barring a river, as practised in
Newfoundland ; they speak for themselves, and
require but little description.

In the first, A, it is evident that any fish
coming up-stream and meeting the net, turn
aside, endeavour to get round it, and go
straight into the trap, from which they never
escape. Finding themselves surrounded by
uets, they make a dash for it and get meshed :
nine fish out of every ten are found in the
"trap." This net is illegally set, because it
stretches two-thirds across the river instead of
one-third ; the mesh also being invariably too
small.

In B a net is set in the form of a V, with a
trap at the apex. The fish dash through this,
and are caught in the net beyond it : they never
attempt to go back through the tnip, as they
naturally force their way up-stream. This net
is illegally set, since it bars the deep-water
channel, up which the fish must pass ; and its
form is also illegal.

132

BARRING RIVERS.

!'<l

C requires no description. Tt completely
bars the river, and the mesh is also too sniiill.
Nothing can possiljly pass this net, or, if it did,
the second would stop it. Illegal is no name
for this method.

It must not be supposed that we, skippers
and J.P.'s as we were, looked on calmly while
these atrocities were being perpetrated, except
in the case of the Frenchmen, when, alas ! wc
were powerless. " By virtue of the authority
invested in us," we were justified in proceeding
against the offenders ; but what was' the use ?
One cannot get blood out of a stone, so the
most we could do was to take up the nets,
when so placed ; but it was not always easy
to do so, because they were generally taken
up as soon as a man - of - war hove in siglit,
only to be replaced as soon as she was rouiul
the corner. It has been our good fortune, how-
ever, on one or two occasions to catch some of
these individuals before they have unbuttoned
their eyelids in the morning : the result has been
most satisfactory.

One instance will suffice to show that I have
not exaggerated the mischief done on the one

AN EXPEDITION.

133

liiiml, nor the good results accruing from the
sui)i)ression of the same.

Having r(\ison to suspect that a lovely salmon-
river in Bonne Bay was barred, and had been
so for twenty years, I left the ship at midnight
ill the steam cutter, towing a lioat of light
(Iraudit. We had twelve miles to go to the
mouth of the river, which we reached just as
(liiwn was breaking. The first object we saw
was a boat with one man in it, making up the
river as fast as possible ; but, alas for him ! not
fast enough.

We were soon alongside, when, with a cheery
"Good morning," we asked if there was any
})rospect of sport up the river.
"No, sir; not a great deal."
" Then you don't think it worth while putting
up the rod even for a cast ? "

" No, sir ; I hardly think it is. There hasn't
been a fish in this river for many years."

" Well, it is a pity, after coming so far, to be
disa]»pointed. I think I'll just wet a line."

The old sinner's face dropped, and he dis-
appeared into the bush, while we proceeded.
AVe had not gone a mile further before a sight

(1.

ItT' ;

fil' :

134

A BAR DISCOVKKEl).

I

"Hi':

met us enough to make any true angler collapse.
Right across the river, from l)ank to Ijaiik,
staked high above the water, was a splendid
net, and suspended in the meshes, just as tlic
water had left them, were several salmon and
some noble trout, of 3 and o. weight.

Above this net were three others, all containing
fish ; and above thai again — not a living thing,
and no wonder. Chucking away our rods, gafts,
&c., we set to work, lifted all the nets, and put
them in the boat, together with the fish ; drew
the stakes, and sent them down the stream;
and then dropjjed down the river to enjoy our
breakfast, which we felt we had earned. Pres-
ently our old friend hove in s'

" Well, sir, did you have any oport ? "

" Yes, thank you, pretty fair, and better than
I expected," — at the same time holding up ;i
fine salmon.

" Lor', sir, you don't saj' so ! I really didu't
expect," &c., &c.

" Yes ; and the next time I come I hope to
have l)etter; for if ever I catch you again, you
will l)e fined fifty dollars in addition to the
confiscation of your nets."

l»ut r(

nients

Ati

anotlie

tenant

mouth

on the

set acre

ing awi

sible di-

on boarc

TWELVE NETS CONFISCATED.

135

The old reprol)jito didn't wait to hear more,
Imt retired into the bush with the "compli-
ments of the season."

At the same time that this was taking place,
another of our boats, in charge of the first lieu-
tenant (also J.P.), went down the coast to the
mouth of a celebrated trout-stream. Arriving
on the scene at daylight, he found eight nets
set across the river, one above another. Sweep-
ing away the whole of these, to the irrepres-
sible disgust of the natives, our boat returned
on l)oard, our united bag for the morning's work
l)ein2; twelve nets and a fine haul of fish.

As a sequel to this story, I must mention
that the following year I again visited this
salmon-river in conipan with a youngster eleven
years of age. We polec, up the river as far as
we could, waded a mile or so more, and then
found ourselves at a likely-looking pool, below
which was a rapid, or "rattle," as it is called
in that country.

Selecting one of Farlow's lovely " silver doc-
tors," I commenced at the head of the pool,
whilst Jim fished below. About one-third
down, a rise, and I was fast in a 3 -lb. trout,

ii

i

136

GOOD SPORT.

which was speedily landed ; and to cut the
story short, I took eighteen others between
2 and 3 lb. each out of that pool before I
left it. I then moved down to help Jim, who
could not reach the further l)ank, where the fish
were lying. At this place we found the trout
jostling each other. So thick were they, that
although there were salmon in the pool — for we
could see them — the latter stood no chance, as
the more nimble trout seized the fly immediately
it touched the water. For upwards of an hour
the fun was fast and furious, and we were con-
stantly both playing fish at the same time.
The bank was sloping and clear of trees, so we
gave them the butt freely, and after a few
rushes, hauled them out by the hair of tlie
head ! The strand looked as if a seine had
been hauled, speckled beauties of 3 and 4 lb.
lying about in all directions. At last the fish
slacked off, as well they might, and we hove
to for a cup of coffee, which was prepared
.for us on the bank. After a short spell for
refreshment, and to rest the water, we set to
work again ; but the trout had had enough of
our flies. I rose a salmon at the tail of tliu

poo],
We t

small
brace
tJie fii
and hi
It w
ney he:
^vJlic]l
iiig, we
on boa:
out of
scaled (
—not ;i
and 3 i
in sayii
Xewfuiii
part of t
The d
'lay's sp
file best
sider fr(
ket for
brougJit
Work.

GOOD SPORT.

137

f tlio

had

4 lb.

hove

'paretl
■11 for
set to
■ii<j;li of
of tlio

pool, and Jim hooked another, which he lost.
We then fished the pool over again, with a
small trout on spinning - tackle, taking three
brace more big trout, after which I went up to
tlie first pool and killed a grilse with the fly,
and half-a-dozen more trout.

It was now 3 p.m., and we had a long jour-
ney before us, so, putting our fish into the skiff,
which had been poled up whilst we 'vere fish-
ing, we dropped down the river and then went
on board. Our bag weighed exactly 98 lb.,
out of which there were thirteen trout which
scaled over 3 lb. and twenty -five over 2 lb.
— not a bad bag to be made between 11 a.m.
and 3 p.m. I think I am justified therefore
in saying, that, given fair play, the rivers of
li Xcwfoundland would be second to none in any
part of the world.

The above represents an exceptionally good
(lay's sport, even for Newfoundland — certainly
the best I ever had. As a rule, I should con-
sider from 20 to 30 lb. weight a good bas-
ket for that country ; and several times I have
brought that weight back after a hard day's
Work.

'ii'

i

138

CHAPTER VIII.

A DAY AMONGST THE GRILSE.

In our clicirt of Hall's Bay I had often
noticed a fall of 127 feet marked on a cele-
brated salmon -river called the Indian Brook,
only three miles from its mouth. Being desir-
ous of seeing the wonderful fall, I engaged two
Indians to pole me up the river in a canoe ; so
we started one lovely morning in July, a little
before daybreak. There is a steam saw-mill at
the mouth of the brook, and great quantities of
lumber are rafted down the stream to be cut up
at this mill. Trailing my salmon-fly astern of
the canoe, I hooked and killed a lively grilse.
The roar of the falls could now be distinctly
heard, and soon afterwards a bend in the
river brought us in sight of them ; but I must

say I

feet, J
so mn
Avere si
size, lie'
Moekii]
several
asceudi
aud tin
Close b
which tj
helow ;
another
thrown
.^pillicaui
hanofinof
lightly
a gleam
tauteuei
the wat(
three nii
of the I]

' I have
I'H't (,f the
' -''t, wliieli

FISHING IN INDIAN BROOK.

139

say I was Badly disappointed. Instead of 127
feet, I estimate the falls at not over 20, if
so much : they must have shrunk since they
were surveyed.^ A mass of logs, many of large
size, had formed a jam at the falls, completely
Idocking the passage, and raising the water
several feet, thus preventing any fish from
ascending. The foaming torrent poured over
aud through these logs with a deafening roar.
Close below the fall was a deep still pool, in
which the water glided silently to some rapids
below ; at the lower part of this pool was
another jam of logs, — the heavy spars were
thrown about in every possible position like
spillicans. Stepping out upon the rocks over-
hanging the silent pool, I dropped my fly
lightly upon the water. Instantly there was
a gleam like silver out of the depths, the line
tautened, — a fresh - run grilse sprang out of
the water, was all over the pool, — aud in
three minutes he was cleverly netted by one
of the Indians, and lay gasping on the bank.

' I have since heard from Mr Murray, who surveyed this
part (if the country, that the height ought to have been 12.7
feet, wliich he judged it to be.

I

ijiji

140

GRILSE-FLSHING.

After a short spell to rest the pool and enjoy a
cup of coffee and a cigar, I took up my rod
again, and hooked another grilse with the
third cast, which, after several leaps, went
over the fall below, and was landed lower
down. A few more throws, and I was fast
in another; this one also went over the falls,
but left my tiy sticking in a log ; and tlie
next one served me the same way. A fifth
landed on the logs in his first jump, and we
parted company. After this I had no more
luck, although I rose and hooked several
more : they all went over the falls or hung me
up m the logs, in spite of all I could do to
prevent them. Had it not Iteen for these logs,
I must have had at least a dozen of them, for
they took the fiy well and were all fair hooked.
After this the salmon left off rising, and I took
six heavy trout, averaging 3 llj. each, uml
returned to the ship, not over-satisfied with
my day's work. Two days afterwards 1 re-
turned to the spot, taking Jim with me, ami
had the pleasure of seeing the little fellow
kill his first salmon. We got three that day.
and as many l)ig trout, l)y 7 a.m., when it

came
This r:
fish, ai
have ]
vented
One
land is
as the c
them.

by a p

sport en

provisio]

:is no so

any part

TJie I]

great nu

the same

'*^cotia, J^

ly a gre;

ileter u k

1

I'astinic.
•**>tockhol
twenty i
-the fiic
after it

MOSQUITOES 4ND BLACK FLIES.

141

came on to rain, and tlie fish ceased to rise.
This river had not been netted, and was full of
fish, and I have no doubt first-rate sport might
liave been had there, l)ut our short stay pre-
vented any further enjoyment of it.

One of the objections to fishing in Newfound-
land is the difficulty of getting to the best places,
as the coastal steamers do not necessarily call at
them. A small coaster might be easily hired
by a party of sportsmen, and probably good
sport enjoyed ; but everything in the shape of
provisions, &c., including a tent, must be taken,
as no sort of accommodation can be found on
iiiiy part of the coast.

The mosquitoes and black flies are a very
great nuisance during the summer months ; but
the same applies to all the rivers in Canada, Nova
Scotia, Norway, &c., and although undoubted-
t ly a great drawback, they are not sufficient to
deter a keen angler from enjoying his favourite
pastime. We found the best remedy to be
Stockholm tar and oil, or carbolic and oil —
twenty parts of the latter to one of the former
—the Hies Inizz round, but they don't hanker
lifter it. As to veils, I wouldn't be bothered

■*

142

FISHING DRESS.

with them. They are all very well for lotli-
fisliiiig, or where you have no distance to walk ;
but when, as in Newfoundland, you have often
to walk for miles to reach the water, or wade
up the river to reach the pools — climbing over
boulders, with an occasional header into the
river — a veil would be worse than useless ; be-
sides, it is uncomfortably hot, interferes with
smoking, and you cannot see your Hy, or a
fish rise.

As regards dress, ordinary Scotch tweeds
are the best, with thick stockings, and nailed
boots. Wading is indispensable ; but in sum-
mer the water is not too cold, and after a rid)
down and a change, one is none the worse for
it. If a man must wear waders, he had better
stick to Scotland, where he has to stand in a
pool all day ; but they will not do where you
have often to walk half-a-dozen miles to the
water, and back again over a very rough coun-
try ; besides, as there are no roads, one has gen-
erally to take the bed of the stream for it.

The unsophisticated natives, mostly Irish-
men, have no sort of idea of distance. If one of
them tells you the river is five miles off, you

may ;
tramp

best A
your (

SEA-FISHING.

14:3

may make up your mind to a good three hours'
tramp, and are hieky if you find it then ; so the
best way, if you find a good pool, is to pitch
your camp there, and stick to it.

Although sea-fishing hardly comes under the
name of sport, a few words on the subject may
1)0 of interest.

The cod is the only fish recognised in New-
foundland as of any value, except perhaps the
haliluit. All others are looked upon merely as
l)ait, or for manuring the ground. I have even
kuown trout of 3 and 4 lb. weight cut up as bait
for cod ; and the man that told me this wasn't
;i bit ashamed of himself.

The Newfoundland cod has for many years
commanded the markets of Spain, Brazil, and
the West Indies ; but of late the Norwegian and
Iceland fisheries have been running them very
closely, if they have not run them off the field,
and monopolised the trade as regards Spain.
This is said to be due to the superior manner in
which the Norwegian fish is made or cured ; and
also that the Norwegians have l^een al)le to un-
»lersell the Newfoundlanders ; there is no fear.

144

HERllINGS.

however, Init that the hitter will always maiiitaiu
a high place in market value. The hank fishery
on the coasts of Newfoundland and Labrador k
probably equal to that of all the rest of the world
put together ; and when it is estimated that ;i
cod's roe contains from 4 to 9 million eggs, there
is little fear of this fish being exterminated.
The average size of cod is probably 7 or 8 11).;
but I have known of a single fish weighing as
much as a quintal, or 112 lb. !

Herrings abound in such prodigious numl)ers
that no just estimate could be formed of them.
They are frequently barred in any of the numer-
ous estuaries along the coast, such {is Long Har-
bour, by enclosing them in long deep nets, and
kept in this manner until vessels arrive to take
them away. This method is illegal, and very
properly so, as many millions die of starvation
or suffocation, and sink to the bottom. I have
heard of the bottom of the sea beino- covereil
with dead herrings to the depth of 16 feet.
Even with our small service seine we have taken
60,000 herrings at a single haul, and been ob-
liged to open out the seine and allow the bulk
of them to escape, to prevent the net breaking.

ing to
coast (
is no c
the sea
follower
wliieh I
poor lit
and the
TJiey ai
'nit tlie
"r driet
to Greu
hi iipj)
tlie snif
Squi(

(Ccphah
largely

CAPLIN.

14(

These fish are nearly all used for manure, al-
thougli they are fully as good as the Scotch her-
rings. Halil)ut are taken ofl' C'ape Ray, weighing
as much as 500 11). each ; and mackerel are also
tolerably numerous.

The caplin — a most delicious little fish, belong-
ing to the family of tSdlmonicIw — arrive on the
coast al)Out June, in countless millions; audit
is no exaggeration to say that the very colour of
the sea is changed l)y their presence. They are
followed l)y shoals of cod, salmon, and trout,
which prey upon them ; and so terrified arc the
})oor little fish that they cast themselves ashore,
and the whole coast is covered with their remains.
They are used chiefly for l)ait and for manure ;
Ijut they are also excellent eating, whether fresh
or dried. In the latter state they are imported
tu Great Britain, though not in large quantities.
In appearance the caplin somewhat resemble
the smelt.

Squids, belonging to the family of cuttle-fish
{Geplialopoda), are very numerous, and are used
largely for bait. The fishermen catch them by
jigging — i.e., lowering down a lead weight armed

K

■ 1

r

146

OCTOPUS.

with hooks, and jigging it up and down througli
the shoal. Some enormous specimens of the
octopus have been caught on the coast, tlie
arms of some of these creatures measuring 30 to
40 feet. These formidal^le monsters are miidi
dreaded by the fishermen.

147

CHAPTEH IX.

(I R 0 U S K - S H O 0 T I N G.

Any one who chooses to work hard and has a
good dog may get very good grouse-shooting
ill any part of Newfoundhmd. The Peninsuhi
of Avalon abounds with grouse, and even in the
immediate neighbourhood of St John's there
are plenty ; but there are also plenty of gunners
ill that locality, so that it is necessary to go
some little distance to make a bag. The neigli-
liourhood of Trepassey is a famous Ix'at, so is
Cape Kace, Cape Pine, 8t Mary's Peninsula.
Wlierever you may go, birds will be found in
nimibers to satisfy any sportsman who prefers
to see dogs working, and walking up the birds,
to squatting behind stone walls and having
them driven over his head. But good dogs are

«'■

: t

||.:-

i

i^

148

GROUSE-SHOOTING.

i

al)S()lutcly ncccHSjiry ; even with one only, a fair
bag may l)e got. 1 have worked most of tlir
ground al)ove - mc^ntioned, l)e8ides many otlicr
places — such as Bay de Nord, IS hip Cove in tlic
Bay of Despair, Hare; Bay, White Bear Bay, La
Poile, all on the soutli coast — with one old set-
ter, " Paddy," who has l)een my faithful compiui-
ion for years ; and had fair sport at every one
of them. Many is the time we have tramped
for hours without seeing a feather; l)ut we
almost always dropped on to them liefore the
day was out, and managed to pick up eight or
ten brace, which I call a good 1)ag for a roiigli
wild country, where every man carries a gim
and shoots when^ he pleases. There is a reg-
ular close season, else the l>roods would soon
be exterminated ; and the 1st September is the
opening day as in England, for these birds are
called partridges out there, although they are
nothing; of the kind.

The grouse lie uncommonly close, and the
cover is very thick, so they are not always
easy to find, but, when fow^ " ^'^t dilHciili
to shoot. I have ^roqv ' d eight or

nine out of a cove} lUio. no^

as theVi

^'Ct u

The s

the bi

tJie gr

are nt

cliarge

a liand

.shot.

they w

1 Jiave

buliiins

an axe.

One
know oi
a

i-^

GKOUSE-SHOOTINCi.

149

get up Hingly or in twos, as if out of a bag.
The settlors always choose a foggy day, when
the birds are loath to rise, aud shoot them on
the ground threi; or four at a shot ; but they
arc not to ])e blamed for that, seeing that a
cliarge from one of their seal-guns means half
a handful of powder and " live fingers " of buck-
shot. In the interior the grouse are so tame
they will not rise, and aftbrd no sport ; and
1 have often, when out after deer, seen the
Indians knock them over with a stone or with
an axe.

One of the most delightful expeditions I
know of, combining sport with beautiful scen-
ery, may be had by driving from St John's to
Salmonier, a place we often visited in the
Druid ; but only once did I have the good for-
tune or the time to go by land.^ The road is
a good one, and the scenery grand and beauti-
ful throughout. From the heights above " Top-
sail Heads" a magnificent view of Conception
Bay, with its islands and bold headlands, can
be ol)tained on a clear day ; and from thence
a road winds through lovely and varied scenes

^ There is now a railroad to Topsail and Holyrood.

H-

Hi

:r\

m -;<

150

GROUSE-SHOOTING.

to Holyrood, at the head of Coiicoptioii Bay,
where comfortable quarters are to be found.

Holyrood is twenty-eight miles from St John'.s,
a little more than half-way to Salmonier. After
leaving this place the sea is left behind, and the
scene changes : from thence to Salmonier the
drive is through dense pine-woods, with occa-
sional clearings or open "Ijarrens," interspersed
with lovel}^ lakes nestling in the woods, — in fact
a thoroughly sporting-looking country, such as
may he seen in many parts of Scotland and in
Norway. At the half-way house, the only break
between Holyrood and Salmonier, a fine view of
the general features of the country is obtained ;
l)ut, as I am a poor hand at descriptions of
scenery, I shall not attempt to delineate them.
The hotel at Salmonier is small and unpreten-
tious, and Mr Carew and his wife are most
oljliging to their guests. Fair sport maj' l)e
had in this neighbourhood with gun, rod, or
rilie, according to the season. A snipe-marsh
lies directly in front of the house ; a salmon-
river, to use an advertising })hrase, " runs
through the property ; " and at the back of
the premises, a few hours' journey througli

rla- \\
open
to be
Esc(
Iractio
geese,
disposci
the e:j
had, it
these 1
related
in bacro
at it, h]
ly killii
a rco-ini
into car
the gro

But
sport t
and 1 1
sonietim
occasion
a ])aiT('
frigate,
"five fii

fWM

GROUSE-SHOOTING.

151

the woods, there is an extensive "park," or
open l)arrens, where deer and wdld geese are
to 1)0 found in the fall of the year.

Escorted by an amusing guide of Irish ex-
tmction, I once visited this place after wild
geese, and although the limited time at my
disposal prevented me from seeing any game,
tlie expedition was most enjoyable. "Pat"
had, it seems, piloted a noble sportsman to
these huntino; - o;rounds after caribou ; and he
related with much gusto how he had succeeded
ill bao;o;incr a fawn after firinoj fourteen shots
at it, his companion also distinguishing himself
I'V killing a pricket, which he decapitated with
a regimental sword, Ijcaring the proud trophy
into camp, and leaving the carcass to rot upon
the ground.

But these exploits scarcely represent the
sport that may be enjoyed on these barrens,
and I have no doul)t that good stags may be
sometimes killed there. Our guide on this
occasion lirought with him a huge weapon, with
a l)aiTel like the main - topgallant mast of ?.
fi'ioate. This formidable engine he charo-ed with
"five fingers" of powder and the same liljeral

?"

mv''^

152

EXPEDITION TO SALMONIER.

allowance of buckshot, and on my venturing
to suggest that perhaps the gun might be over-
charged, he said " she " always took that ! but
that on one occasion when the powder was
rather better thnn usual, "she" knocked him
down senseless in the snov/, the hammer scalj)-
ing him as the weapon disappeared over his
head. On coming to, he discovered the gun
buried in the snow ten yards l)ehind him, and
a deer which he had fired at lying dead, as
wtII it might be, with five -and -twenty buck-
shot in its carcass.

T made an expedition to Salmonier one Sep-
tember, accompanied by an enthusiastic sjjort-
ing judge of St John's. It rained heavily the
whole way, and we were thoroughly soaked
when we got to the hotel. However, a night's
rest put us all to rights ; and the next morning
we started before daylight and drove down by
the river's bank till we came abreast of a small
"fore -and -after," with whose skipper we had
made arrangements to take us over to the other
side of St Mary's Bay. The crew had not yet
roused out, so we opened fire on the craft with
snipe-shot at forty yards, and after peppering

sJiao-o"
know
and ii:
river a
breeze
i)onr t
and CO
receive^
indeed
round I
ing spo]
accent,
but wit]
well,
jostling
trout a]
sands o
esijuely
very pL

ill contr
•^'ttlcme:
valk'y af
«lieep, ai
to agric

gun

Sep

ni l.y
small
luul
otlier
ot yet
t witli

per

iiig

EXPEDITION TO SALMONIEE.

153

the side {ind masts with several rounds, a
shaggy head appeared al)ove the gunwale to
know what was wanted. We soon got aboard,
and in a short time were scudding down the
river with a flowing sheet ; a smart north-east
l)reeze carried us across the bay to a small har-
i)onr thirty miles distant, where we landed,
and conveyed our traps to a farmhouse. We
received a hearty welcome from our host, and
indeed from all the village : the natives crowded
round us, to give us every information concern-
ing sport. These people all spoke with a foreign
accent, rolling their "r.s" like a Frenchman,
but with a curious mixture of Irish brogue as
well. They declared the " patterridges " to be
jostling each other on the l)arrens ; and as for
trout and salmon, they were as thick as " the
sands on the say." The village was j^ictur-
csijuely situated in a valley, and presented a
very pleasing and well-to-do appearance, quite
in contrast to the generality of Newfoundland
settlements ; this was due to the fact that the
valley afforded pasturage to herds of cattle and
sheep, and a considerable part of it was devoted
to agriculture. The houses were beautifully

JKI

n \

-;' m

ir

154

BRANCH RIVER.

clean and well kept ; and the Ijonnie ftiees of
the lassies, and the ros)?' chuhhy cheeks of the
children, were delightful and refreshing to l)e-
hold, and in pleasing contrast with the misery
and desolation usually visible at the other set-
tlements round the coast. This village of
"Branch River" represents what a Newfound-
land settlement ought to be, and what they
would be, if any care were bestowed upon them.
A tine salmon-river winds through the valley,
irrisjatintr a considerable extent of land, and
forcing its way by a narrow " l)aracliois " ^ to
the sea.

I never saw finer potatoes, or better cream,
bread, butter, or fatter poultry or stock, in any
place than at Branch River, showing what can
be done by perseverance. The hay crops were
magnificent, and the whole place bore the aspect
of a well-to-do f;irm in the Lowlands of kScot-
land. It is certainly the most fiourishing little
place in Newfoundland. The harbour is not a
safe one, except for small craft that can enter
the river ; hence Branch is but little known.

The afternoon of our arrival we ascended tlic

barren
a few
doo's ^

^Ve

SI

liospit.

keen ]

^vorkec

our hoi

crossed

•sixty bj

not nuK

is prese

*\iiere t

elose-tin

every n

courage

^yllll

very m

''Ut the

—it cost

inagiiifie

\ntli sui

'fy, it isl

' A narrow gorge.

BRANCH RIVER.

155

luuTciis, and bagged sixteen bruce of grouse and
a few snipe. The birds were fairly plentiful ; the
(logs worked well ; and the powder was straight.
We spent three most pleasant days with our
liospitable entertainers, enjoying good sport and
keen Ijracing weather. On the fourth day we
worked along the coast to a rendezvous, whither
our Ijoat had preceded us, and from thence re-
crossed to Salmonier. Our bag (two guns) was
sixty brace of grouse and a few couple of snipe —
not nuicli to brag of in a country where game
is preserved ; but not bad for a wild country,
where the only protection the birds get is a
close-time durino- the breedino-season — where
every man carries a gun, and vermin are en-
courao-ed for the sake of their skins,

Walkinu" on the barrens of Newfoundland is
very nnicli harder work than on a Scotch moor ;
Init there is no limit to the extent of ground
—it costs nothino-. The birds, when found, are
magiiihcent ; and when the sport is combined
with snug quarters and kind-hearted hospital-
ity, it is not to be despised.

«i

15G

CHAPTER X.

THE CARIBOU AND CAEIBOL -STALKING.

This noble aiiimar {Cervus tarandus) is dis-
tributed all over tlie nortliern parts of Europe
and America; and is also abundant in Newfound-
land and Labrador. In Lapland, Norway, and
Iceland, it is known as the reindeer ; on the
American side of the water as the caribou. Tlie
two animals are specifically identical ; but the
latter are larger, heavier, stronger, and carry fir
finer antlers, which is probably due to better
feeding and more extensive pasturage. Caribou
appear to have been indigenous to Newfound-
land, as may be surmised from the stone arrowy-
heads belonging to the aborigines of the island.
which are occasionally found on the shores of
the lakes, and could have been used for no

THE CARIBOU.

157

other purpose than sLT-yiiig deer. There is no
(l(Hiljt also that the island has been largely re-
cruited from time to time from Lal}rador. Old
settlers have told me that in severe winters,
when the Straits of Belleisle have been frozen
right across, they have seen large herds of deer
crossing on the ice from the coast of Labrador,
to the comparatively more genial climate of
Newfoundland ; and it is not likely they would
ever return, if they could, seeing the magni-
ficent pasturage they would find in their new
home.

The habits and appearance of the caribou
may be fiuniliar to many sportsmen ; to others
they may not be so. It is to the latter I ven-
ture to address a few remarks, gathei'ed prin-
cipally from my own observation, and from
that of Indians familiar with the subject.

In general appearance the caribou somewhat
resembles a gigantic goat. The body is heavier
and more clumsy tlian that of the red-deer ;
the legs are shorter and stouter, the feet broader,
head more cow-like, eyes and ears smaller, and
nostrils larger. The skin is Ijrown in summer,
hrown and white in autumn, and white in

,1

■II

;'2ii<>l

■¥

158

THE CARIBOU.

winter ; cliaiigiiig, in fact, with the seasons,
like hares and ptarmigan. The hair is ex-
tremely thick and beautifnlly soft, having an
under covering of soft warm wool, which gives
it a springy touch, unlike the wiry hair of red-
deer. The antlers of the caribou stag are [lal-
mated, sweeping l)ackwards at first, and then
forwards, and of magnificent proportions, — the
brow-antlers sometimes meeting over the nose,
like a pair of hands clasped in the attitude of
prayer. More often they have one brow -ant kr
fully developed, the other not. In all respects
the animal is admirably provided to resist the
inclement climates he is destined to inhabit ; liis
short strong legs carry him over ground such as
no horse could traverse, and his broad foot pre-
vents him from sinkintr into the boojs or snow.
A popular delusion is that the palmated horns
of the caribou, especially the brow-antlers, are
given him to scrape away the snow to reach tlie
lichen upon wdiicli he feeds. In reality it is
not so : the horns are given him on purpose for
fighting ; and the proof that they are not for
scraping snow is clear from the fact that the
deer sited their horns when the snow is on the

%

THE CARIBOU.

159

(ji'ound, ami all the winter through they have
110 horns : they scrape the snow witli their
nose, which is covered with hard skin on pur-
[)OSL', and with their feet. The stag is in his
prime in September, and his horns are then at
their full growth, clear of the velvet — in fact,
"cleared for action" — and they shed them in
November, after the rutting season. All this
})oiiits to the conclusion that they are given
tliem for fighting, and doubtless for ornament
also.

During the rutting season, which commences
about the thirtl week in September, and lasts a
fortnight, terriljle battles take place ; and it is
rare to find a full-grown stag whose antlers are
not battered, the brow -antlers especially, and
the animal himself often badly bruised about
the neck and shoulders. In defending them-
selves against wolves, they use their fo)e-legs
with good effect. Uidike the rest of the deer
ii'ibe, the female caribou carries antlers, but not
ahvnys. She brings forth her young in ]\fay,
retainino- her horns durinjj^ the winter ; the
barren does shed theirs in winter. This would
seem to be a provision of nature for the mother

9

100

THE CARIBOU.

lin 1^

to be able to protect her young ; and 1 ha"e
invariably noticed that an old doe with a fawn
has got horns. A full-gi-own caribou hind is
fully as large as a red-deer stag, and a full-
grown (caribou stao- is half as laro-c again.^

In coming to this conclusion I am not spojik-
ing at random, having killed both kinds mnny
times. j\Iy experience of red-deer is that they
average from fifteen stone upwards, and it is a
very good stag that weighs twenty stone clean ;
whereas a caribou stai? would average from
twenty stone upwards, and thirty stone would
be not at all an unusual weight.

From the inaccessil)le nature of the country
the cariljou inlial)it, it is impossilde to Ijring in
the whole ci.rcass and weigh it, as in Scotland,
I have therefore been led to this conclusion by
the general appearance of the animal, the size
of its skin after preservation, the weight of its

1 I Uf-e the words doe or hind indiscriminately. The In-
dians always speak (if a doe. It ought, of conrf-e, to be hinl
being the female of a star/. In the same way they spoiik ol
a fawn whiMi it should be a calf. A doe and fawn only apply
to fallow and small deer, when the male is a bud: Tli'
Indians also speak of an old caribou stag as an old "bull.
"Moose" are spoken of as bull or cow, but I never heard ot,i
cow caribou.

t

THE CARIBOU.

101

bead, liiiiiiichcs, kc, wlien ln'ouglit into cjimp.
I liavo louiul it liiird work witli one Indian to
even turn over a lieavy stag ; and after having
l)een gralloched, skinned, (quartered, the licad
cut oft", and legs lopped off by the knee, it has
taken four strong men to bring tlie meat into
ciunp. Allowing 80 11). for a load (an Indian
eonsiders 100 11). a fair load), that would make
320 lb., less head, liorns, paunch, skin, not
counting a (quantity of meat, such as tlie neck,
saddle, &e., which they could not carry; I
think, therefore, that I am not exaggerating
wlien I reckon the beast clean at from 400 to
500 lb., and often more.

In habits caribou resemble the rest of the deer
tribe ; their vision I do not think is very acute,
nor their hearing very wonderful ; but like all the
(leer ftimily, they trust entirely to their sense of
smell, which is extraordinary. They have one
peculiarity I have remarked, namely, of feeding
doivn wind. This is very advantageous when
stalking ; and if the hunter can only get ahead
of tliem and gain a good hiding-place, they will
feed almost on the top of him ; but if alarmed,
they will turn up wind as soon as possible. They

L

'^^n

K'l: i

^■|:'

1G2

CARIBOU-STALKING.

•li

arc not at auy time ditticult to Htalk when once
you have spied them, owing to the nature of
the ground where they are generally found —
amongst low juniper-lmshea, the height of a
man's head ; but this also makes them difficult
to spy, esj)ecially if lying down. Once seen, a
certain shot may be generally obtained at al-
most any distance, with moderate precaution.

These deer, from l)eing seldom hunted, have
but little fear of man, so long as they don't
wind him, and will often allow one to apjjroach
boldly ; indeed, the big stags in the breeding
season are mucli more inclined to tight than
run away. The Indians can call or tole ' them
up within ten yards, if allowed to do so, but
such a })ractice savours of butchery, and is un-
worthy of a sportsman ; it is, however, often
necessary to tole a big stag, to induce him to
leave the hinds, and present a shot. When a
stag is toled, he always tries to get to leeward
of his enemy to get his wind, and the stalker

nuist

llllNC I

gets t
Ii,i(litni
tauce.
always

Uj) tJl(

the In

■success

altogetl

(leer stj

Tile u

trot if aj

tliey ca^

make a

J

' ToleiiHj the ciU'il)ou is tLi- revcr.se process tu "calling'' tin-
moose. In the hitter the cry of the female is imitated ; in tlif
former, the male. With the moose it is the poor brute's amaton
feelings which are imposed on ; with the caribou, his pui^'iHstii
ones.

CAKIB0U-8TALKINO.

163

must prevent this at all hazards, even if he
have to show himself; for if once the animal
•ft'ts the least taint of wind, he is off like
li<i;htning, without wishing for further acquain-
tiiucc. The hinds, as usual in these cases,
iihvays lead the van, the old stag l)i'inging
up the rear. Tolelwj is not difiicult ; all
the Indians can do it with more or less
success : the cry is a shutHing kind of grunt,
!iltos2;ether difterent from the roar of a red-
(leer stag.

The usual pace of a caribou is a long swinging
trot if alarmed ; but if the danger be imminent,
they can gallop very fast. In galloping they
make a clacking noise with their feet, caused
by the toes being spread and coming together
again. Their Hesh is excellent. The stags are
iu their prime in August and September, when
they have as much as five inches of fat on
them. They run down very fast in the rutting
season, during which time they eat nothing
hut sand and mud, and are of course unfit
for food ; at this time the hinds are in fine
eoudition.

I have no doubt that caribou could be easily

164

CARIBOU-STALKING.

domesticated in Newfoundland,' and made use
of for draught purposes, as in Lapland. There
is a portion of tho island called the province
of Avalon, connected witli the .main island hy
a narrow neck, part of which might be turned
into a magnificent deer-park, and the deer pre-
served therein. This would at all events prevent
them_ from being exterminated, as I fear they
will be ere long, by the settlers, who go after
them in the winter, when they are driven down
from the barrens to the coast in search of food,
and fire into the herd with their heavy seal-guns.
In this way they kill numbers, and wound a
great many more. I have killed stags with
slugs in them. One butcher boasted that he
had knocked down seven at a shot.

It is only %ir to those who are contemplating
a visit to Newfoundland, to tell them of the
difficulties attending this sport. The first is
the difficulty in getting to the ground, and the
expense attached to the expedition. Newfound-
land is, so far as the interior is concerned, mi-

' I have since seen one, a young stag, in a farmhouse on tin
Cod Roy river. He came into the kitchen to be fed, like a d%.
Another was caught and tamed by an Indian at Hall'.s Bay, but
made its escape.

CARIBOU-STALKING.

165

Ic use
There
Dvince
nd l)y
turned
3r pre-
)revcnt
ir tliey
;o after
n clown
of food,

v^oiuid a
(Ts with
that lie

inhabited ; consec|ueiitly it is necessary to take
everything with one, in the shape of provisions,
tents, &c. This entails a number of men, who
have also provisions to carry : the same men
carry down the meat, unless it is proposed to
leave it to rot upon the ground. It is necessary
to have boats, to take your party and gear up
the rivers, across lakes, &c., as there are no
roads whatever ; these boats must be light, to
enable them to Ijc poled up rivers, or trans-
ported across country, from one lake to another.
For all this work Canadian lumberers are first-
rate, being expert polers, handy axemen, and
good at making a camp, or carrying a heavy
load.

Provisions of all kinds can be obtained at St
John's, from whence they would be conveyed
alung the coast by the coastal steamer : men
;uid boats would have to be engaged before-
hand. The amount of provisions and gear
would be in accordance with the wants of the
}iarty : the principal items required are ])ork,
t1(»ur, sugar, and tea, aerording to taste ; the
move gear the greater trouble, l)ut, of course,
greater comfort. A cooking-pot, kettle, and

Wd.^.

■^mmm

166

INDIAN STALKERS.

*

1

1

1

ii

ll

1

1

1

II

ill

r ''

^1

' .J

I

1

frying - pan arc absolutely necessary ; also
warm clothes, and a good blanket or rug, as
the nights are cold in September. One suit
on, and one off, are sufficient, and two or three
pairs of thick stockings, a stout pair of boots,
a pair of moccasins, made by the Indians from
the shanks of the first deer killed ; guns and
rifles complete the outfit, which will be found to
occupy no little space. In addition to this,
potted cocoa, or coffee and milk in tins, and
compressed vegetables, add greatly to one's
comfort ; and of course pipes, tobacco, matches,
candles, towel, soap, comb, tootli-brusn, needles
and thread, and a pair of binoculars, or stalk-
ing-telescope.

With regard to Indians, some people don'r
believe in them : I do. I have yet to learn what
any sportsmen have done without Indians : they
are thoroughly familiar with the country, and
are experienced hunters and trappers, which
the white men are not. The latter are very
useful, but know nothing about deoi -stalking,
or the habits of the animals : in fact, the Indi .
represents the stalker, the white man the gillie :
any one familiar with Sc otch deer-stalking knows

''M

OAEIBOU-HUNTING TRIP.

167

don't
1 what

tliey
y, nn>l

very

Iking,

mW

Q-illie ;

knows

exactly what that means. The Indians have
their ftiults ; they are grasping and extortionate
iu their demands, and get sulky if not proper-
ly treated, or if a man won't work, or can't hit
anything. But treat them liberally, with plenty
to eat and not too much to drink, consult them
on all matters connected with their calling, and
1 have always found them thoroughly up to
their work, and most intelligent and amusing
companions. I only speak froi. my own expe-
rience ; and I would as soon go out after deer
in that country without an Indian, as go to sea
without a chronometer.

In the autumn of IP'' J, a party, consisting of
two sportsmen, four Canadian lumberers, and a
fine specimen of the British blue-jacket, started
from the Bay of Islands, on the west coast of
Xewfoundland, on a caribou-hunting trip.

Two small boats loaded to the water's edge
conveyed us and our traps to the mouth of the
Hunil)er, one of the finest rivers in the island,
wliere the woi-k of poling commenced.

Tiie stream ran swiftly, with heavy rapids
and eddying pvtols ; but the men tlioroughly
knew tlicir business, and, by taking advantage

B

•Ill

•■■ti

rrrifi- 't mi\'VlltitMn ii^ihuin I'ltr .

17

108

CARIBOU-HUNTING TRIP

of eddies, witli now and then a spell at the oars
in slack water, maintained a steady average of
three or four miles an hour against the current.

Two men, one in the bow, the other in the
stern, are required for each l)oat, the principal
work devolving upon the aftermost one, whu,
by bearing his wh(jle weight upon the pole,
keeps the boat steady whilst the f(n-emost hand
steers clear of boulders and snag;s ; when fixin*'
their poles simultaneously, away the slight
ciiift dances over the foaming torrent.

After two or three hours of this work, we
reached a " steady " or long stretch of shxck
water, where the oars were substituted for the
poles, pipes lit, and yarns spun. Our " boss,"
a lean wiry backwoodsman, ])y name M'Cormaek.
was quite a character, and entertained us with
his ad^^entures in the woods, and his experience
with the North American Indians, for whom he
professed the most intense disgust. He seemed
to have some reason for these feelings, since
they badly used some of his family, and brutally
treated his grandfather some years back ; conse-
quently, he related any retaliatory measures with
much relish. One of the most satisfactory, in

DEER POND.

169

liis opinion, was the introduction of smallpox,
which decimated a whole tribe ; but even that
was eclipsed by a friend of his, who poisoned a
well, and thus " wdped out " an entire colon}'.
He seemed to think it quite a pity that some
such remedy w\as not tried upon the Zulus, with
whom we were then at war.

After several hours' poling, we reached the
head of the river, eighteen miles from the
mouth, and entered Deer Pond, a splendid
sheet of water, nearly twenty miles long.
After a short sj^ell for refreshment, the oars
were got out, and we paddled gaily along the
tranquil surface of the lake. At this season
of the year the shores of these lakes present a
most beautiful appearance, the maples having
already donned their autumnal tints of scarlet,
green, and yellow, the cohjurs being vividly
reflected in the calm w^aters of the lake. The
Humber river is especially beautiful in this
respect ; the strenni winds through magnificent
gorges, and the mountains, heavily timbered to
their summits, rise to the height of 1500 feet
oil either side. Several kinds of pines, firs,
hazels, ])irches, and mnples adorn the l)anks ;

'^•wmiimf

170

CAMPING.

but tlie pines are fast disappearing before tlie
lumberer's axe. Salmon ascend the Ilumber in
great numbers, and many seals follow tlicmi int(3
the lakes of the interior. We reached our
camping-ground about dusk, having traversed
thirty-five miles since morning, mostly against
the stream. Our men then set to work to pitch
the camp, cut down trees, &c. ; and in less than
half an hour we were comfortably settled under
our tent, l)efore a roaring fire, comj^osed of
eight or ten fir-trees, over which the pot con-
taining our dinner merrily hissed. Our beds,
composed of the soft tops of the spruces clev-
erly arranged, were prepared for us, and after ;i
glass of grog and a pipe, we soon coiled away
for the nio;lit.

The next morning we were off early to ex-
amine some marshes at the back of our camp,
where we hoped to find deer, but returned after
a fatiguing tramp of several hours, having seeu
nothing ; so, having breakfasted, we again took
to the boats, and reached a farmhouse at the liead
of the lake ])y noon. The Humber river runs
throuo;h Deer Pond, so we once more entered its
waters, and after jmlling anotlier five miles.

N><.,1

liii took
he ln-'iK^
br ruii^
>red it^
miles,

R

R"!' Hi

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172

GRAND POND.

reacliecl what is called in Newfuuiidland a por-
tage or corduroy road through the woods, where
we called a halt to make the necessary arrange-
ments for dragging our boats across in the morn-
ing ; hut Cochrane and I pushed on, and camped
for the night aljout half-way acn^ss. We found
the portage to be nine miles, and knee-deep in
mud the whole way, so that it was not till thu
next afternoon that we reached the shores of
Grand Pond, a magnificent sheet of water ;it
the far end.

The feelings awakened in the mind of an
observer when sightino" this Ijeautiful lake foi
the first time, may be gathered fr<nn the follow-
ing graphic descripticjn fr(jm the pen of the
Eev. JM. Harvey, who ac(tonipanied the gover-
nor across the island : " The shades of eveninii-
were closing as we g(jt cur first glimjjse of
Grand Lake, and a very beautiful and impre.s-
sive sight it was. I sat down on the trunk of
a pine-tree that had been washed up ])y the
waves, and I gave myself up to the spirit of
the hour and the influence of the scene. The
shades of night had now darkened the hill-
tops, and only a stray breath of wind playc' oii

ORANP rOND.

173

till' surface of the lake. The stillness had in it
something oppressive — almost ])ainful. . .
To relieve this sombre mood, I tried to picture
the good time coming, when the great valley,
stretching from shore to shore, will he filled
with a l>usy, prosperous population ; when the
forests will he cleared away and smiling corn-
fields and meadows will overspread the scene ;
when along the iron road will be gliding
chariots of fire ; when those l)lue waves will
l)c the pathway for the steamlioat with its
trancjuil motion ; and when young men and
maidens, old men ;ind children, will mingle
their voices here in sono-s of gladness." But
with what different feelings does a sportsman
regard these matters ! To my mind the chief
charm of the scene before me was its solitude ;
and if T had thought anything about it I should
have said to myself, Here at least, in this peace-
ful spot, one can repose a while, undisturbed
Ity the hum of a busy population. Those for-
ests yet remain as God })lanted them ; those
hills have never j^et been desecrated by the
plough or the iron horse ; nor those waters
by the shrieking of the penny steamer con-

■«"»P"

174

GRAND I'OND.

veying " 'Any " and his sweetheart on ;i
picnif. Hero is ji spot where neither young
men nor maidens, ohl men nor cliildreii,
reside, and where tea-gardens and touters are
unknown. The day will doubtless come when
Grand Pond will be as hackneyed as L(jcli
Katrine ; when the air will reek with bad
tobacco, and the hills re-echo the strains uf
a brass band, and the shores of that beautiful
lake be strewn with empty l)ottles, old boots,
and sardine -boxes ; when those lovely woods
will be cut down, and the hillsides and valleys
ploughed up, drained, and planted ; when the
caribou and beaver will be extinct, and the
Indians departed to the happy hunting-grounds.
But I am not likely, nor do I wish, to see that
time.

Whilst waiting the arrival of our baggage,
we went to look for wild geese on the marshes,
escorted by some miners who were exploring for
coal in the neighbourhood.

We left our coats, rifles, cartridges, hunting-
knives, and binoculars, hanging outside the
miners' hut ; and on our return, some hours
afterwards, were horrified to find it in flames,

ami 01
the r
punciic
the m
my slit
ashes v
heavy
not arr;
The ]
had bo(
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had war
Our 1
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a very 1
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is sixty
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iiel on
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j^^gU|_^^g^

FIRE.

175

ami our iiroporty in greiit joopardj'. We siived
tilt' rifles and 1)inociilars, but the elotlies,
pouches, and cartridges were; destroyed. All
the money I possessed was in the i)ocket of
my sliooting-coat, l)ut we ■"ecovered it from the
ashes when cooled down. It was fortunate our
heavy baggage, with provisions, tent, &c., had
not arrived.

The fire originated from a spark : the miners
had been cooking their supper, and had incau-
tiously neg] )cted to put out the fire, although I
had warned them al)0ut it.

Our boat and gear arrived after dark, the
meu being thoroughly done up with their day's
work, so we camped on the borders of the lake,
and the next morning launched our boats for
the first time upon the waters of Grand Pond,
the largest lake in Newfoundland, and after
a very hard day's work, reached Sandy Point,
a distance of thirty-five miles from the place
of our departure, where we camjDcd. This lake
is sixty miles long. A large island divides it
abreast of Sandy Point, leaving a narrow chan-
nel on either side, and it is at this j)oint
that the deer are in the habit of crossiuii:

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BEAVER-HUNTERS.

later on in the year : already the sand on l)oth
sides was deeply impressed with their tracks,
some of them quite fresh. Having an hour to
spare before dark, we took our guns to try for a
duck for our dinner, and had fired a few shots,
when, to our astonishment, we heard a regular
volley some distance down the lake in reply,
and soon afterwards observed a canoe, with a
solitary Indian approaching. The man told
us that his family were beaver-hunting some
way down the lake, and hearing our shots they
fired a salute to give us a welcome ; so the next
morning we shifted our camp to where they
were. We found them most comfortably estab-
lished in a wigwam, beautifully constructed to
keep out the wet. They said they had done
pretty well with beavers, and the interior of the
wigwam was festooned with skins, stretched out
to dry. After considerable palaver, we engaged
two of the Indians to pilot us to the barrens
on the morrow.

The sun was high in the heavens the follow-
ing day before our arrangements for the expedi-
tion were complete. Three days and a half had
already elapsed since our departur* , and not a

'^1

TOILING THROUGH THE FOREST.

177

living thing had we seen except a few ducks
and mergansers, which we had shot coming up
the river ; but we now looked forward to getting
some sport for our trouljle, and the Indians
assured us we should not be disappointed. The
first thing to be done was to sort our baggage,
leaving all the heavy gear, with the bulk of our
provisions, down at the beach, with the boats,
in charge of one of the party, wdio had orders
to look out for deer crossing the water. The
shores of the lake at the back of our camp rose
at an angle of 45° for about 1500 feet, after
which, we were informed, it was all plain sail-
ing. Up this w^e had to go ; so all being ready,
we embarked and landed lower down, where
a trail, known only to the Indians, led to the
barrens above. A tall, powerful fellow, Levi
by name, led the way, playfully wielding an
axe to clear away any obstacles in the path,
and carrying a load of 100 lb. on his back,
•lie rest of the party following in single file,
t\ich man carrying a load according to his
strength. After three hours' toil, and many
spL'lls, we reached the top, and hove to for
refreshment. It was now about 2 p.m., and

M

178

VIEW FROM THE PLATEAU.

:! ', :il

glad were we to throw down our packs and
enjoy the fresh breeze and the glorious prospect
before us.

We had now reached a plateau 1500 feet
above the sea, from whence a fine panorama
was obtained. Far as the eve could reach
were open barrens, interspersed with clumps
of firs, and Jakes in all directions ; looking
back, and almost on a level with us, was Sir
J. Glover's island. This island is twenty-five
miles long ; on the top of it is a lake, and iii
that lake another island, and in that island
another lake, — and so on, like a Japanese puzzle-
box. The general ajjpearance of the country
resembled a Scotch deer-forest, but with more
wood and water. Under our feet the lichen,
upon which the deer feed, grew thick; and
from the numerous tracks leading in every
direction, it was evident that we were in a
perfect sanctuary for deer.

Our spirits rose accordingly : and once more
shouldering our packs, we stepped gaily along,
taking a bee-line for a clump of wood seven
miles away, where the Indians proposed we
should pitch our camp. They told us that not

11

KENNEDYS PLAINS.

179'

a white man had ever trod those barrens before,
— a piece of information we were not sorry to
learn, and M'Cormack christened the country
'•Kennedy's Plains" forthwith.

Suddenly, John Joe, who was leading, threw
clown his pack, and said he saw deer : devil a
tail could we see ! However, we took his word
fur it, and called a halt. The country here-
aljouts was covered with stunted junipers, so that
we could not see far in any direction ; but Joe
said he had seen deer movino; about amono;st
the bushes. Loading our guns and rifles, we
followed him in that direction, and soon got
sight of a tine young stag. Getting a fair broad-
side shot at him at 70 yards, I dropped him
in his tracks, with a ball from the smooth-bore.
The shot startled another deer, which Cochrane
polished off in good style ; and which proved
to be a very fine hind,^ with a better pair of
liorns than my stag. A pricket now made
its appearance, running back, and gave me
an easy shot with the " baby " express rifle ;
so that in less time than it has taken to record
it, we had three deer down, and enough meat

* After the tir.st day we shot no more hinds or young deer.

lOSli

ftfc

80

SEEING DEER.

to keep US going for a week. This was a good
beginning ; and much pleased with our success,
we m^de for camp, which we reached about
sundown.

The next n..orning we were up betimes ; and
after a cup of coffee, started in opposite direc-
tions, John Joe going with me, and Levi with
Cochrane. I must now tell my own story,
since we were separated every day, only to
meet in the evening.

Joe and I had walked for about a coujile of
hours, smoking and chatting about sport, &c.,
when the Indian stopped, and threw himself
down, and I followed suit.

" I see deer," he said. We lay still for .1
while to survey the position, when a fawn fed
out from behind a bush where he had been
lying, not more than 60 yards off. He was
presently followed by a hind, and then the
antbrs of a stag appeared. We dared not move,
or the hind must have seen us ; so we kept
still till the stag fed into sight, when I fired
and struck him fair behind the shoulder. To
my disgust all three bolted, but the stag soon
separated, showing he was badly wounded. We

m

mn

A HEED IN SIGHT.

181

followed as hard as we could, but lost sight of
him ill a thickly wooded hollow, where he had
lain down in the water, but sprang up not 20
yards off, when I gave him both barrels and
rolled him over. After gralloching the stag —
a fat beast, about the same size as the one I got
the day before — we started again to examine
some likely-looking ground to the southward ;
Ijut, meeting with nothing there but a hind and
a calf, we wheeled round so as to work home-
wards against the wind, when I saw in the
distance a white object running along the
hillside.

Pointing it out to Joe, he at o^ce pronounced
it to be a herd of deer, or " whole company " of
them, as he expressed it, led by a white hind,
with a very big stag bringing up the rear. JMy
glasses proved him to be correct, for we counted
seventeen or eighteen of them, in charge of a
monster which loomed as big as a bullock, and
carried a magnificent head. The deer were
travelling diagonally towards us, down wind,
so that by running as hard as we could for half
a mile we were able to interccnt their path, and
had barely time to drop behind some low juni-

182

A BULL CARIBOU SHOT.

pers before tlie leading hinds were upon us. It
was an exciting moment as the graceful animals
passed our ambush in twos and threes, some of
them not more than five y^irds off, and none
more than twenty. As they crossed our track,
they winded it, jumped over, and, passing on,
assembled t1 "mjelves in our rear. Many of tlie
hinds carried very fair antlers, and looked like
stags. Joe was greatly excited, and kept whis-
pering in my ear, "Take that one, sir; she got
five inches of fat ! " but I was deaf to his re-
marks, and kept my gun at half-cock ; for I could
hear the old bull grunting in rear of his harem.
Presently his brow-antlers appeared — what a
moment for a deer-stalker ! — then his head and
enormous neck — and what a pair of horns ! — and
then his huge carcass came in full view. Joe
gave a grunt, the old brute stopped; and at
that instant the heavy ounce-ball crashed in
behind his shoulder, the poor brute gave a
prodigious bound, clearing fifteen feet, as we
afterwards measured, and then laid out at full
gallop. I stood up and pulled the second trig-
ger, but the cartridge missed fire : it mattered
not, the gallant beast, going like a race-horse,

FORTY-TWO POINTS I

183

l)ut (lying •ill the way, mtadc i^traiglit for u lake,
some 400 yards away, and plunging in, rolled
over dead. Joe gave a grunt of satisfaction,
and we forthwith "spliced the main-brace, drink-
ing blood on the black knife," in Highland fash-
ion. AVe then sat down to enjoy a pipe, and
watch the hinds, which had scampered off at the
shot, and now stood grouped a couple of hun-
dred yards off, wondering what had become of
their lord and master ; but, not wishing to injure
them, I fired a shot over their backs, sending
them scampering off to look for another stag, —
Joe's opinion being that they would not be long
before they had found one, as other stage, are
always following the hinds at this season, and
are only deterred from joining the herd by the
presence of a bigger and stronger stag tiian
themselves. We now proceeded to drag the old
fellow out of the lake, which was, fortunately, a
shallow one. His horns stuck up out of the water
like a branch of a tree. After a good deal of
trouble we got him ashore, and surveyed hia
noble proportions. " He very ole stag," said
Joe : " about ten year ole, and weigh over 500 lb."
But, by Jove, what a head ! — forty-two pviints,

yisibstii

m^

184

" BRIGHAM YOUNG."

as I'm a sinner ! with tlic palmntcd l>ro\v-antlrrs
interlocked across his nose, like a pair of clasjx'd
hands, his huge bull-neck and shoulders bearing
many a scar, gained in defence of his seraglio.
I named him *' Brig ham Young" on the spot,
out of com})liment to the Mormon elder ; and
his grand old head looks sadly on me as I write
the account of his death. Ah, well ! his end
was peace — and a very tough piece lie proved
to be !

Having performed the last offices to Brigham,
we shouldered his head, at least Joe did, for 1
don't think I could have carried it, and returned
to camp, which we reached at 1 p.m. The
first thing that met our eyes was a splendid
stag's head, propped up against a tree, showing
that Cochrane had also been successful, and had
gone out again ; so after a hasty meal, Joe and
I did likewise, but we saw no more deer that
day. On our return to camp at sundown wc
found Cochrane just come in ; he had met with
another big stag in the afternoon, and badly
wounded it, but lost it. We had not done
badly, however — over six deer in a day and a
half; so we spent a very merry evening over

SUNDAY IN THK FOREST.

185

our pipes uud grog, and luriR'd in at peace with
all the world.

The next day being Sunday, was ol)served as
u day of rest, at least as far as we were con-
cerred; but with six dcor lying out in different
directions, some of them nine miles from camp,
it was necessary to bring in the meat ; so all
hands went out for that purpose, and returned
in the ev(M''iig, bearing liuge quarters of ven-
ison, heads, skins, &c., all of which we triced
u[) to the trees ruuud the cajup, presenting a
very picturesque and sporting appearance. The
quantity of meat attracted a number of moose-
birds, a species of jay, which became so impu-
dent, and pecked the meat so badly, that we
had to make an example of some of them. Our
party were now in high spirits, with plenty
to eat and to drink, fine w^eather, and good
sport ; in fact, we might have kept a ship's
company with food if we had only had them up
there. Ptarmigan w^re plentiful, but so tame
we seldom molested them, except to knock over
a brace or so for the pot ; wild-fowl were also
numerous. The Indians were very well satisfied
with our success, of which they were not a little

M\

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186

CAKIBOU-HTALKING.

pioiiJ ; niul wjU they might 1)o, for without
them we shoukl liave got nothing. We foniul
the big stags rather tough, ho we lived on tho
hind and pricket ; but M'Cormack was rasli
enough to try " Brigham's " tongue, and i)ro-
nounced it mighty strong.

On Monf^iy morning Cochrane and I changed
stalkers, Jo^ goiiig with him and Levi with
me. We left the camp at daylight after a cup
of coffee, but imwiscly taking no food with us,
as we felt certain of killing a stag for breakfast.
My coxwain, the blue-jacket before-mentioned,
begged to be allowed to come also. We walked
for four hours over hill and dale, forest and
swamp, without seeing anything, and we began
to think our breakfast would be of the lightest,
when Levi said he saw deer in a wood. For tlie
life of me I could not make out anything, even
with my glasses ; but these Indians have such
wonderful eyesight that I felt perfectly confi-
dent ; so we made a long detour to get to lee-
ward of the place.

From some high ground above we could
look down the valley ; and there, sure enough,
were the deer — nine of them, some feeding, some

CARIBOU-STALKING.

187

lyiiif,' clown — ill a lovely secludi'd spot. It wus
iilniuat a pity to diHturb them ; but a hungry
man lias no compunction. We could make out
one <,'ood .stag, if not two ; but the .small stags
and liind.s, ])eing both antlered, are not ea.sily
distinguished from each other. To reach the
spot was no easy nnitter, the valley being only
open from below ; the wind was from that direc-
tion, and all round the top and sides were
densely wooded. We had tlierefore to crawl
down through the wood to get a shot ; and
entering at the })oint nearest to wherci the
deer were feeding, we managed to crawl down,
avoiding dry twigs and rotten windfalls, till
we got within shot of a small stag and some
hinds. Leaving my coxwain at this place, I
crawled on with, the Indian till wc saw a good
stag below us ; the deer was standing broad-
side at seventy or eighty yards — a splendid
ihance, but for a bush which covered his shoul-
der completely. I waited till he fed clear,
when he turned quarter - face to me ; when,
aiming for the point of the shoulder, I fired.
Simultaneou.sly came the report of my cox-
wain's rifle, and I saw his stag roll over. Not

t

« »

•'M

■ i

n

188

CAKIBOU-STALKINt

SO mine, as he bolted with the rest ; but feel-
ing sure he was hit, we followed, and sooii saw
him separate from the hinds and walk slowly
down the valley, evidently very sick. We
came up with him after a chase of half a mile,
when I finished him. The stag was a well-
grown beast of about four years old, very fat,
Ijut not much of a head. The first ball had
struck the point of the shoulder and passed
out on the opposite flank.

We soon lit a fire, and by eleven o'clock were
breakfasting oft' grilled kidneys roasted ou a
stick. The meat proved most excellent — al-
though, for the matter of that, we were su
hungry we would have eaten it raw. A himl
watched our proceedings from a ncighbouriiii:
hillock ; but leaving her unmolested, we skinued
the deer, and shouldering as much meat as we
could carry, returned home, where Cochraui'
had already arrived, having also killed a stag
about the same size as mine.

John Joe now said he wanted to examine bi^
beaver- traps, a day's journey to the southward.
so as we didn't care to go with him, we took
a spell whilst the men were bringing in tlit

JOHN JOE ATTACKED BY A CARIBOU. 189

meat, stretching tlie skins, or otherwise em-
ployed about the camp. Our provisions were
getting short ; no tea, sugar, or whisky left,
and " baccy " scarce, but abundance of meat and
biscuit still remaining ; so we decided to go
out for one more stalk, and then make tracks,
as we had as much meat as we cared for or
could carry. Joe having returned, came with
me, and Levi with Cochrane, as on the first
day. Joe told me that whilst on his way to
his traps he met with a big stag. He was not
looking for deer, and did not want to kill
him, but the stag went for him. He threw
stones, or, as he called it, rocks at him, but
the beast still came on; so he shot it in the
neck, at six paces, with small shot, and killed
it. This may sound an improbable yarn to any
one unacquainted with the audacity and fierce-
ness of stags in the rutting season. I was not
anxious to kill any more deer, so we went to
have a look at this stag. We had walked for
seven miles without seeing anything except a
brood of grouse, out of which I bagged three
brace, when we saw an enormous beast on the
opposite side of a valley. He looked fully as

190

" CALLING " A STAG.

big as " Brigliam," and carried a splendid head, so
we proceeded to stalk him. Crossing the valley
we ascended the opposite hill, and on reaching
the sky-line, saw our big friend, accompanied
by several hinds and a small stag, which kept at
a respectful distance. This small fellow gave
us a deal of trouble, as he was feeding between
us and the rest, so that we could not approach
without giving him our wind ; Ijut by taking-
advantage of a hollow in the ground, we got
within 100 yards of the master of the herd.
I could not, however, get a shot, owing to
some bushes which screened him ; we there-
fore kept quiet, watching our chance. Mean-
while the young one, quite unconscious of
danger, fed up to within five yards of where
we lay. I had half a mind to put a ball
through his head and take my chance at the
old one, when, to our relief, he fed away and
disappeared round a hummock. It was bitterly
cold, the sleet falling on us all this time, and
we were much cramped, so Joe suggested a
"call" to bring up the big stag. And now a
most laughable scene occurred. Joe com-
menced grunting, rolling his head from side to

THE STAG "OALLED."

191

side, and bringing the sound out of his stomach
as it seemed. The effect was magical. At the
first grunt the stag tossed his head, faced about,
roared back a challenge, and cleared for action.
Another series of grunts from Joe, and the stag
advanced, stamped his foot, rattled his horns
against a tree, as though saying, " Who's
afraid ? Come on ! I'm ready for yon. I
was laughing at the ridiculous sight, but sliiv-
erinoj with cold at the same time. Hearino:
the challenge, but seeing nothing, the stag now
moved cautiously forward, and turned broad-
side to catch the direction of the sound. At
that instant I " let him have it," when, to my
dismay, the whole lot bolted, the stag bringing
up the rear. They stopped for a moment on
the sky-line, looked back, and then disappeared
as though they meant to put a few miles be-
tween us ere they pulled up.

"You missed him, sir," was all Joe said.
Yes, Joe, I'm afraid I did ; 'twas the cold that
did it ! However, as soon as their sterns dis-
appeared over the sky-line, we were up and
after them, but with little hopes of ever seeing
them again. On reaching the top, very much

192

CARIBOU-STALKING.

i

pumped, Joe's quick eye caught a glimpse of
them trotting quietly along, so we went on
their tracks. I was fast dropping astern when
Joe cried out that they had turned, and were
coming right down towards us. To drop be-
hind a bush was the work of an instant, when
the leading hind came in sight, cautiously
picking her steps, with ears cocked forward to
catch the slightest sound. She passed where we
were lying, not twenty paces off ; the rest fol-
lowed, with the l^ig stag bringing up the rear.
Joe hurriedly whispered, "You hit him, .sir;
see, his belly covered with blood I " I had l)nt
time to notice that it was so, wlien he was
abreast of us, and a ball from the smooth-bore
crashed through his shoulder, followed by
another through the ribs. The stag plunged
wildly forward, and after staggering a few
yards, pitched head-foremost into the bracken.
Joe gave several grunts of great satisfaction,
and I slapped him on the back and congratu-
lated him on as fine a piece of stalking as ever
I saw,^ for without his aid I should never have

1 The last time I saw poor Joe lie was at his own home in
Hall's Bay, dyiny, I fear, of consninptioii.

" JOE SMITH."

193

taken the trouble of following up the deer after
the first shot. Our stag, which we named
" Joe Smith," after another Mormon elder, from
having so many wives, proved a noble speci-
men, fully as heavy as his brotlier " Brigham,"
and counting thirty-six points on his antlers,
which were widespread and beautifully shaped.
On examining him w^e found the first shot,
when we thought I had missed him, had struck
him too low down, and passing thrcugh the
body, had carried with it a lump of fat as big
as my fist, which had plugged the liole and
stopped the bleeding on that side ; hence his
indifference to the wound, which must event-
ually have caused his death.

Cutting off' J. Smith's head, we turned our
fiices homewards, Joe bearing the trophy aloft
on his shoulders — on our way to camp meeting
witli another fine stag with three hinds ; but
.-satisfied with my day's sport, I would not molest
them. We passed the deer Joe had killed two
days before, and stopped to admire its head,
a very pretty one, and then without further
adventure reached camp.

The next day we struck our camp ; and the

N

^

h'\

b't

> '

■i

194

GRAND POND.

same evening, after a very heavy day's work,
readied the shores of Grand Pond, where we
had left our boat. During our absence only
one deer had crossed the water, a hind, and slie
was shot ; so that would have been the extent
of our sport had we preferred that styk* of
shooting as recommended to me by a noble
sportsman in St John's ; whereas, by hard work
and fair stalking, we had killed ten good stags
and a hind in five days.

Not much more remains to be told. AVe
were detained for three days by a north-east
gale, which raised a heavy sea on the lake;
but at last, losing all patience, Cochrane and
I crossed in a canoe with two Indians, and
ascending a fearfully stiff mountain on the
further side, we took a bee-line across country
and reached the ship on the second day.

Just as we left the beach, we saw a beau-
tiful stag come out of the wood, with the
apparent intention of crossing the lake ; but
winding our footsteps he turned back, and
disappeared into the wood again. We might
easily have shot him, but preferred to let him
enjoy life, being satisfied with our success,

s
I

<2

\'.''\

'l

"!;■

J

^,1

^■t\

'

iiii

il

196

CAMP AT GRAND POND.

and having no pjeasure in killing for killing's
sake.

The boats with our gear and tropliicjs arrived
two days after us, and so ended a most enjoy-
able excursion. We parted with our Indians
with regret. They had served us faithfully and
well, so we loaded them with good things to
take back to their camp ; and before leaving tlic
ship, I sent them down to get a good square
meal, telling my steward to give them all
they wanted , and adding that one of them was
a teetotaller ! They appeared long afterwards
looking very comfortable ; and in answer to
my inquiries the steward remarked, " Well, sir,
this one drank a bottle of whisky and a bottle of
sherry 1 the teetotaller drank eight bottles of
beer ! and they polished off ten pounds of meat
between 'em ! "

I may mention here that none oi the meat
which we had left upon the ground was wasted,
for during our delay at Grand Pond we sent
the men up to the barrens and brought it down.
Even if we had not done so, the Indians said
they would use it all up.

JOURNEY BACK.

197

rivc'd

tdiaiis

y and

On our overland journey back to the ship, we
had a sample of the wonderful " instinct," if
one may say so, w4th which Indians will find
their way across an unknown country. One of
tliem, John Joe, had never been on that
ground ; the other had once, but long ago. We
travelled all day through woods, marshes, and
Ijarrens, with no trail or anything to guide us
that we could see, but there was never any
hesitation or douljt in their minds. It was
coming on dark, and the leading Indian said we
must make a camp for the night, as we could
go no further. He had previously told us there
was a " tilt " (a kind of wigwam) about half-
way to the bay, which we hoped to reach
before dark. " Why not go on ? " I said. " Too
dark," he replied. " Could you find your way
without us, if you were alone ? " " Yes." " Then
go on," — and go on we did ; and the first thing
wo met, after stumbling through a thick wood,
in utter darkness, was the wigwam, about tiiree
feet off. The Indians made us very comfort-
able in it ; and as our provisions were exhausted,
they supplied us from their store, baking most
excellent bread, cooking our food, and boiling

II

198

INDIANS.

water to make tea in a cup made out of birdi-
barkji stripped from the nearest tree ! No won-
der I speak well of these Indians ; they would
live in the woods, and thrive where a white nuiii
would starve. I shall have more to say of thciii
later on.

' Curiou.'<ly enou},'!), the burk does not burn, tlic water inside
preventin},' it.

Brigham Young.

199

CHAPTER XL

SECOND EXPEDITION AFTER CARIBOU — 1880.

J"

We must now suppose a year to have elapsed
since the adventures in the last chapter were
recorded.

Exactly at the same time of year — to a day,
ill fact — the Druid happened to be anchored
ill the same spot where she had been in 1879.
The fishery season was practically over, and her
engines were being overhauled preparatory to
lier summer iiiglit to warmer latitudes. Taking
iulvantage of these fortuitous circumstances, a
party, of which I was a member, started on a
second expedition into the interior of the island.
My companion, Cochrane,^ who had been with me

I'

' Lieutenant Thomas Cochrane, then a sub-lieutenant in the
Driiid.

IP

200

'' devil's DANCIN(J-H0LE."

on the former (^cciisioii, njrjvin nrcompanicd m<\
A keen siiortsnian uiid boon conij)iiiii()ii, jihvayH
good-tempered, ready for iinytliing, be the wea-
ther wet or dry, the j)roviHions H(;are(! or ph'iity,
the liquor short or aljundant, 1 could wi.sh ioi
no ])etter or more cheery eompauion. Besides
ourselves, was a eonniM-tion of my own, whoso
great and)ition was to slay the lordly caribou
on his native barrens, for wiiieh pnr[)ose lie IkkI
come out exjiressly from England. On this
occasion we liad no fewer than seven white men
to carry our gear, necessitating two light l)outs
and a larger one. This bio; boat gave us no end
of trouble and anxiety ; and we had a hard job
to track her past a notorious rapid, near the hetul
of the Humber river, called the " Devil's Danc-
ing-hole,"— a very appropriate name, judginu'
by the infernal current (running fourteen knots
an hour), and the whirlpool caused by the same.
After a laborious day's work, we reached the
head of Deer Pond about midnight, and availed
ourselves of the kind hospitality of a fanner
and his wife, who had settled in this solitary
spot. The next day we crossed the portage
with the usual difticulties, and camped once more

CAMPING ON GRAND TON I).

201

on flic Hliores of Criuid I ..iu\, where we fell in
with the telegraph repairer, a Mr Stpiires, who
gave UH a hearty welcome to his hut.

Whilst we were having our .supper in this
I (lace, a weasel came in and endeavoured to
drag away a hare which was lying in the hut ;
nor would he desist until Lyon killed him w4th
his hunting-knife. I mention this because these
vermin are usually so shy : this little rascal had
apparently no fear of man. Our party was
now reinforced by three Indians and an Indian
woman — Levi, John, Reuben-Soulian, and j\lrs
R('ul)en. Crossing the lake in a. storm of wind
tmd rain, we camped for the night on the south
side, wet through and very miserable, and
the next morning started for the barrens, —
t'very one, Mrs Eeuben included, loaded to tlie
utmost with provisions and gear. After a most
fatiguing climb we reached the plateau, and
pitched our camp in a swamp ; in iiw.t there
seemed no choice, as the wdiole country was
under water. In the afternoon we went stalk-
ing, but not expecting to see deer in such a
place ; nevertheless we did meet with three, in
the evening, crossing the swamp to some high

*;''!

'M

202

ON THE BARRENS.

ir

barrens in tlic distance. Reuben, by running,
managed to eut them off, and with a wonder-
fully lucky shot, put a ball through the head of
a young stag.

The next day we sliifted our camp to higher
and drier ground, selecting a desirable site in ;i
small belt of wood, about eight miles from our
former position. The country traversed was
knee-deep in water the whole way, and the
labour of transporting the baggage and provi-
sions for so large a party was severe ; but all
shared in tlie work, makinu; lio-lit of difHculties
- — the Indian woman carrying a load upon her
back which would have shamed a London porter.
After a short spell for rest and refreshment, we
ascended a steep hill at the back of our camp,
and at last found ourselves on dry barrens, with
deer-tracks leading in all directions. We now
separated, Reuben going with Cochrane, Joliu
with Lyon, and Levi accompanied me. The
two former were fortunate in meeting with ii
whole " company " of deer, out of which (Vxli-
rane killed n fine stag and missed another, ami
Lyon distinguished himself by knocking over ;i
stag at full gallop at 120 yards. I saw nothing,

BEAVERS.

20;

tliougli I met with fresh tracks. On my way
home we came across a beaver-dam, beautifully
constructed, but the animals were not at home ;
probably the sound of the axe, where the men
were cutting up firewood, had caused them to
retire to safer (quarters till the danger was
past. These animals are very abundant in
Newfoundland, and if protected in the breeding
season they will be so for years to come. It
would be a sad pity if they were allowed to be
exterminated ; and I always tried to impress
this upon the Indians for their own interests,
if for no other reason.^ The beaver is far and
away the most intelligent little animal on the
focc of the earth, and nothing will convince me
but that he has been gifted by the Creator not
only with instinct, but with reasoning powers.
All his actions point to this. He generall}^
selects the site for his abode on the banks of
a small stream, and having built his house,
he proceeds to dam up the stream below. To
<lo this he has to select trees growing near the
hank suitable for the purpose, which he cuts

i!

' A law has since been jiawsed to protect tliit^ iisel'iil un<l
valuable little animal.

* J

nil

i

U'lui nil

it>

204

BEAVERS.

down with his teeth in such a manner as to
cause them to fall across the stream. He has to
calculate the force of the current, and Ijuild his
dam in such a way as to withstand it, as well as
any weight of ice that may come dowai ; there-
fore it is built arched, with the convex side up-
stream. He must know the consequence of
damming up the stream — that it will cause the
water to rise, and so protect his habitation.
All this is not mere instinct, Ijut reason pure
and simple ; and my opinion is, that the beaver
has far more intelligence and common-seiise, if
not reasoning powers of a higher order, than
half the worthless scum who pursue him with
such unrelenting and senseless pertinacity. The
flesh of the beaver is excellent, but rather rich :
and the tail is a most dainty morsel.

On returning to camp we found the lumberers
had worked hard. Our tent, neatly pitched on
rising ground, looked the picture of comfort,
with nice dry beds of soft spruce-boughs neatly
arranged, and covered with a waterproof sheet.
A roaring; fire in front gave out a Q-lowino; heat ;
and from the iron pot, suspended from a Ijent
stick stuck in the ground, came forth the Jeh-

UvlV

LIGHT IN THE CAMP.

205

III

cious steam of well-cooked venison-steaks. A
pile of fir-logs, to last the night, showed that
the Canadian axemen had done their work well.
Nor was the comfort of our iionest companions
neoiected. a mo.st comfortable "lean-to" havino;
been provided for themselves, and the Indians
having erected a " tilt " for their own accommo-
dation. Our wet clothes hung suspended from
a line ; the faithful Norris, my coxwain, had
oiled and cleaned the rifles, which were stacked
against a tree, the firelight dancing on their well-
bumished barrels. Altogether a more perfect
picture of camp-life could not be imagined.

The rain had ceased, and the moon shed her
soft light through the lofty firs, the only sound
to break the stillness of the nio;ht Ijeing the
occasional weird cry of the loon from the dis-
tant lake. Our simple but substantial repast
concluded, pipes are filled, the glass goes round,
yarns are spun, and sounds of merriment re-
sound from the lumberers' camp, amidst which
we can detect the cheery strains of " Tom Bowl-
ing," ^ or the "Lass that loves a sailor." The

' Wl' liad two brothers ul' the name of Ecnvling witli ii.s, and
one of them was Tom.

206

EXCRESCENCES ON DEER.

rapturous applause ceases, we roll ourselves in
our blankets, and in a few moments the camp
is as silent as the grave.

The next morning, after our ablutions in the
burn, and a hearty breakfast — for we have
grown wiser by experience-^we slowly wound
our way up the steep pitch behind the camp to
the hunting-grounds above. We had not gone
a mile from the top before deer were reported,
and a small stag resj^onded to the call. As I
had not killed anything, he was told oft' to
me, and I put a ball into him, just to show
" there's no ill feeling." The stag took the
hint and absconded, and I after him, hring
as I ran. This deer had a strong objection to
parting with his life, and I put live bullets
into him before he succumbed, and fell over
into a lake, out of which we speedily dragged
him.

Judge of my disgust at finding his body all
covered with warty excrescences, presenting a
loathsome appearance. I at first thought he
must have been badly wounded by slugs : the
Indian said it was done fighting ; but this I
could not believe, because a small stag, as he

ves in
camp

ill the
: have
wound
imp to
it gone
ported,
As I

off to
D show
ok the
, firing
ition to

bullets
ell over
dragged

body all
cnting ii
light he
Ligs : the
it this I
Iff, as he

AN UNFORTUNATE DAY.

207

was, would never stand up to be so sluimefully
gored by a bigger one.

M'Cormack thought it was a disease, re-
sembling farcy, to which he said cows were
liable — and I think he must be right ; any-
how, we left the carcass where it lay. The
wretched little beast need not have been so
particular about saving his life ; in fact, he
ought to have been grateful to me for putting
an end to his miserable existence.

The same afternoon I fell in with Cochrane ;
and while we were having our lunch together, we
saw a fine young stag coming leisurely our way.
Levi and I started to cut him off; and I am
[»ound to say the Indian made a mess of it, for
he brought me close to the stag, certainly, but
to windward, and the deer bolted. Cochrane,
however, got him soon afterwards. On the
way home we inadvertently gave three deer
our wdnd. It was no one's fault, as they were
lying down ; but there was a whopping big stag
amongst them, which was vexatious.

Altogether this day's work was very nnfor-
tunate, and I was not very well pleased with
the performance. Lyon had been successful,

208

REUBEN-SOULIAN.

and had killed a stag; so we had all throe
got something, such as it was ! The next
day it blew a gale of wind, and was bitterly
cold. We now changed Indians — Reuben-Sou-
lian falling to me, which I was not sorry for, as
I had reason to believe he was a good stalker,
and I had no great confidence in the others.
Reuben and I stepped briskly along to keep
ourselves warm, for the wind was cruelly cold,
and traversed some likely-looking valleys, well
sheltered, with plenty of wood and water, but
no deer were there. By noon we had been
walking five hours without seeing a beast, so we
then turned up-wind. It had been on our beam
so far ; and on reaching the top of a hill, our
eyes were gladdened by the sight of seven or
eight hinds and a young stag, with one splendid
fellow in charge of the party. The deer were
close below us, feeding down-wind, according
to their habit, so we hid behind some junipers,
and waited their approach. The young stag—
a three-year-old one — as usual kept his dis-
tance from the herd, for if ever lie closed, down
went the old one's head, and away he scam-
pered. This foolish young fellow presently

I

three

next

litterly

n-Soii-

for, as
stalker,

others.
;o keep
ly cokl,
^s, well
ter, but
id been
it, so we
lur beam
hill, our
seven or
splendid

junipt

A STAG OF THIRTY-ETGHT POINTS.

209

came close to where we were lying, and at once
saw us, but not getting our wind, didn't know
what to make of us ; so he stood there, half-a-
dozen yards off, eyeing us inquisitively. Eeu-
ben wanted me to shoot him, fearing he would
give the alarm, and spoil the chance at the
big one, who was now advancing and chasing
the hinds about ; but I would not do so, but
tried to drive him away by speaking to him
and waving my handkerchief. Tliis he took
no notice of; so, disregarding him, I ran for-
ward to get a shot at the old " bull." Getting
a view of his flank, I gave him the first barrel
of my rifle, and the second as he slewed round
to go. One of the shots took effect — I cannot
say which in the excitement of the moment ; so
dropping my rifle, I took the smooth-bore from
Reuben, and fired at the biggest of the herd as
they went by me at full gallop.

Reuben, who had kept his eye on the
big stag, said he was lying dead. We found
that only one of the bullets had struck him, but
tliat was in the riglit place, and clean through.
He was a splendid beast, with a noble pair of
antlers of thirty-eiglit points. The remarkable

0

Hi

210

ANOTHER STAG KILLED.

feature in his head was that he had only one
brow -antler, but that one was a whopper,
reaching down to the tip of liis nose, and
more than a foot in breadth. We gralloched
the stag, cut off his head, and skinned him,
so that his own mother would not have known
him ; and having packed as much on our backs
as we could carry, were starting for camp,
when, glancing back, I saw another deer lying
dead, which proved to be the young one who
had inspected us, and whose life I had previ-
ously spared. The heavy ounce ball had gone
right through him, and the deer must liavo
ftillen dead in his tracks, but a bush prevented
me from seeing it. This stag was in splendid
condition, and must have scaled fully eighteen
stone ; his head did not amount to much. The
old stag would be about 500 lb., and it was as
much as Keuben and I could do to turn him
over. On nearing camp we met Cochrane, who
had killed two splendid stags with very fine
heads, one of which Levi was carrying on his
shoulders.

The following morning I left camp early, witli
Reuben and the two men, to bring in the deei|

THREE DEER IN SIGHT.

211

3, aiul

early, wi^^'
ill the dceil

killed the day before — my companions, Cochrane
and Lyon, dispersing in different directions. We
walked live or six miles, and were in sight of the
dead stags, when Keuben spotted three deer — a
stag, hind, and a fawn — about a mile off, so we
ran across a marsh to cut them off, and succeeded
in doing so. Eeuben " toled " up the stag — a
fine fellow, but not so big as the largest I had
killed the day before, — and he gave me a grand
chance at not more than 50 yards ; but think-
ing I was sure of him, I waited for him to turn
broadside, as he was then facing me, when he
suddenly wheeled round, and made off after the
hind and calf. I got a snap-shot at 100 yards,
aud heard the crack of the ball ; but they all
went off at a gallop, and disappeared over the
sky-line. We noticed that the stag appeared to
be making heavy weather of it, and could hardly
keep up ; but some other deer coming up, took
off our attention. There was no stag amongst
this lot ; so I gave the rifle to my coxwain to
try his hand, and he badly wounded a hind at
fully 200 yards, but lost her. We then left the
men to skin and quarter the deer killed the day
(previously, whilst Reuben and I went on. Soon

t'

yV

m

Ih ,

212

CHASING A WOUNDED STAG.

>t I

after wc had left the party, an immense stag
passed close to them ; but having no weapon,
they were forced to let him alone. Meanwhile
Keubcn and I stepped gaily along, meetiuj^'
with several hinds and calves, when suddenly u
wounded stag passed close in front of us, and
before I covdd get the rifle out of the cover had
disappeared. We recognised the one I had fired
at in the morning, by his horns as well as by
the hind and calf that accompanied him. I sent
the Indian to try and cut him off"; but he was
unable to do so, although he got close enough
to see the blood on his side. I would rather have
missed him clean ; but these accidents will hap-
pen in deer-stalking as in all kinds of shooting,
We were now in the heart of a very sporting-
looking country, scattered over with woods,
marshes, and juniper ; so we climbed up on a
rock to spy the ground, and Reuben soon saw a
big stag walking along by himself, about two
miles off". We were thinking of trying to circum-
vent him, when we heard three shots to wind-
ward ; the big stag also heard them, and took the
hint, moving off down-wind, so we turned oiu
faces towards home, nine miles off, and readied

BACK IN CAMP.

213

camp without further adventure. The three
shots wc heard came from Lyon, who had killed
an enormous stag, but with a very poor head —
his horns having been apparently knocked all to
jiicces in fighting.

We had now plenty of meat in camp, but a
great many mouths to feed ; for thirteen men
will consume a good many pounds of meat in a
(lay, especially when working hard as we were.
Reuben's wife jiroved most useful, and well
earned her dollar a-day, which we voted her,
although she expected nothing. She mended
our clothes, made our moccasins, cooked our
dinner, baked us most excellent bread, and v/as
altogether a great acquisition. The weather was
fine, provisions abundant, and game plentiful —
what more could a man want ? It is true that
our whisky began to run short, and had to be
economised ; we had Ijrought up a good supply
for our party, but under the belief that two-
thirds of them were teetotallers, as they rep-
resented themselves to be. I am bound to
say, however, with all due respect for that most
excellent order, that after the first day's work
there was only one teetotaller left, the rest of

fl

214

OUR SCORE.

them coming for their grog as reguhirly as cows
to be milked ; and I tliink they were all the
better for it.

We had up to this time killed eleven stags,
and we all agreed that one more to make up
the dozen would be a fair bag. Our score stood
thus : Lyon three, Cochrane four, myself three,
and Reuben one ; so this day we went out
stalking for the last time. It was a pretty
dense fog when we reached the top of th(^- ascent
leading to the barrens, and we soon lost sight of
each other ; Reuben and I steered, as ftir as we
could judge, for the rock from whence we had
spied the stag the evening before. The fog was
wet and raw, and the wind blew bitterly cold
across the barrens, so we had to step out smart-
ly to keep ourselves warm, hoping that the fog
would lift. And so it did : suddenly the curtain
rose, unveiling as lovely a scene as ever sports-
man beheld. Far as the eye could reach were
mountains and valleys, lakes, woods, and rocks ;
conspicuous among the last the " Lobster
House " ^ reared its head. Probably a finer

1 A remarkable rock, so called, I conclude, because there is
not a lobster within 100 miles of it, nor a house within forty.

A FINE PANORAMA.

215

])anorama rould not bo seen iii Ncwfouiulhuul
than that obtained from this neighbourhood.
Standing, as we were, in the middle of the island,
an uninterrupted view eould be had for fifty
miles in every direction. To the north-west,
the mountains in the vicinity of Bonne Bay
were plainly visible ; looking eastward were
the " White Hills " around Hall's Bay, with
Sandy INjiid and other fine lakes apparently
at our feet. The chain of mountains forming
the southern boundary of Grand Pond/ stretched
aAvay to the western horizon, and with my
crlasses I could see the fflitterinf]j waters of that
glorious lake. The southern horizon was bro-
ken by the mountains surrounding Red Indian
Lake, a noble sheet of water thirty-seven liles
loug ; and I believe from where we sto ' the
sea might be seen on both sides of the island
on a clear day.

Near us were marshes, ponds, and scattered
clumps of wood, a very sanctuary for deer and
boaver, and a glorious prospect for a deer-

' Unind Pond is 5G miles loii^;, aiul has an area of 192
miles ; this, however, iiicludes an island over 20 nules long,
liiiving the iU'ea of water 136 sciuare miles — a tidy-sized "pond,"

I"

li

t V

216

THE OLD BULL AGAIN.

stalker; not a soul or a Immaii habitation to
be seen, nor a sound heard except the crow
of an old cock grouse, or the more distant
cry of the loon. The beautifully variegated
lichen afforded soft and elastic walking for our
moccasined feet, and the hares scarcely deigned
to get up out of our way as we j)assed by.
About noon we reached the rock from which we
had spied the deer the evening before ; and
Reuben climbed up to have a look round while
I had my luncheor under the lee. Presently
Reuben cried out, " I see him — very big stag ;
regular ole bull — I tink same as we see yester-
day ; there he is a mile oft", coming our way.''
Cramming the remains of my frugal repast into
my pocket, we loaded the gun and ritle, and
went to cut him off, in high spirits. In a very
few minutes we w ere ahead of him, and paused
to take breath under a juniper.^ The stag was
a fine fellow, evidently an old warrior, who li;ul
been beaten off by some bigger stag, and very
sulky he looked in consequence, and very
vicious also. When about 200 yards off, Reu-
ben gave a grunt : the stag threw up his head and

^ In reality a larch, but called juniper in Newfoundland.

MAKING UP THE DOZEN.

217

bion to
e crow
distant
•legated
for our
deigned
ised by.
diicli we
i-e; and
nd while
Presently
dig stag;
■e yester-
our way."
epast into
rifle, and
In a very
nd xoansed

r, and very

and very

ds off, Kr^'-

lis liead aii'i

wfouudliuul.

challenged back, coming boldly forward ready
for another fight. Seeing nothing, he edged
down to leeward to get the wind ; but this we
could not allow, so we moved out into the marsh
to prevent it. AVe were now in full view of the
stag, who came forward again snorting defi-
ance; but not trusting Jiis eyesight, he again
edged off to get to leeward. Now was the mo-
ment, his broad flank was exposed, and a ball
from the smooth - bore crashed through his
shoulder, followed by another within six inches
of the first. The poor beast turned, staggered,
and endeavoured to make off, but too late.
Dropping the gun, I seized the rifle, and the
stao- rolled over, with three bullets throuQ-h his
body. This animal had evidently been fight-
ing hard ; his horns, which were very fine
ones, were much knocked about, and his neck
anti shoulders badly wounded. We cut off his
head and skin, and got back to camp soon after
dark. ]\Iy companions had not been successful ;
but Lyon had killed a good barren hind, mak-
iiio; our baff twelve staj]js and one hind. The
next day we brought in the meat and prepared
for a start, and the following morning struck

218

GRAND POND AGAIN.

til

our camp, and readied the shores of Grand Pond
the same evening, after a heavy day's work.

Those of my readers who have followed me
so far, and are not quite exhausted with the
somewhat monotonous details of deer-stalking,
may care to follow me in a third expedition,
which differed slightly from the last, inasmuch
as we struck in from the east side of the island
instead of the west as in the preceding years.
In both cases we reached the same high barrens
where the deer love to congregate ; and, as a
matter of fact, our camp of 1881 was only twenty
miles from, and almost in siglit of, our camping-
ground of 1880.

Although the incidents connected with deer-
stalking must necessarily be somewhat similar,
there are always details in every stalk different
from another. I therefore relate them, perhaps
too minutely, exactly as they occurred. If to
any they afford as much pleasure in reading as
they do to myself in relating, I shall be well
satisfied.

219

CHAPTER XII.

THIRD EXPEDITION AFTER CARIBOU.

Towards the end of the year 1881, as the
Druid steamed up Halls' Bay, one of the mag-
nificent estuaries on the east coast of Newfound-
land, a solitary Indian might have been observed
standing on the shore, with his little dog, eager-
ly watching the ship us she passed on to her
anchorage.

I fancied somehow I had seen that figure
l)efore, also the little dog, so I presently landed,
and found my old friend Reuben, who had
walked over from the Bay of Despair, on the
south coast where he lived, on the chance of
picking us up. " Well, captain," said he, *' I'm
glad to see you. I was afraid you were never
coming." I thought the poor fellow looked

J. . :,U' !. 1

220

THIRD EXPEDITION.

rather thin. He told me he had walked across
in eight days and had been without food for
four of them. The distance is not, perhaps more
than 100 miles as the crow flies, but equal to
at least four times that length owing to the
woods, swamps, and rivers one would have to
cross.

There is one thing about an Indian, he can
go without food for days, and then gorge him-
self with a cargo sufficient to last him a week,
like a dog.

It so happened that we had to wait for the
Fantome at an appointed rendezvous near Hall's
Bay, so that Eeul^en's arrival was most oppor-
tune, and we arranged for a few days' hunting
without delay. We managed to secure the ser-
vices of one of the numerous Joe family — a tall
raw-boned Indian of immense strength. Poor
John Joe was too ill to come, and I fear that
he has already succumbed to the disease which
is slowly but surely killing off his race.^

Our party on this occasion consisted of threo
sportsmen — Sir Kose Price, Baird, and myself—
the two Indians, two blue-jackets, and a couple

^ Consumption.

I I!.

THIRD EXPEDITION.

221

of lumberers, hard working and willing fellows,
wlio well earned their five shillings a-day.

The usual difficulties beset us on starting :
m\ i's too low for poling, a gale of wind on the
lake, camping with all our gear soaked, and
wlien at last we I'^ached dry land, a tedious
tramp through burnt woods for ten miles ; so
tliat it was not till noon of the third day after
leaving the ship that we reached our destina-
tion, and pitched our camp in the middle of
an extensive marsh. After a short spell to
straighten our backs, we started off in diiferent
directions to try and get some venison for supper.
Reuben and I had not left the camp a quarter
of an hour, when, looking back, we saw a fine
stag come out of the wood and proceed leisurely
across the marsh down-wind. We had a sharp
run back throuQ-h the woods to get ahead and
to leeward of him ; and I had just time to drop
behind a stone in the marsh, and get my wind,
when the stag approached and gave me a fine
shot at about seventy yards. The sharp crack
of the ball told that the old Scotch rille had
•lone its work well, but the deer bolted across
tlie marsh at a gallop. I stood up and gave

222

THIRD EXPEDITION.

him the other barrel, striking liim on the
flank ; but this seemed only to quicken his pace,
and he disappeared round a belt of wood.
The country hereabouts was marshy, with
clumps or drogues of wood scattered about like
islands in a sea. We followed the direction
the deer had gone in but saw nothino; of him,
and it was impossible to follow his track in the
marsh, as it was knee-deep in water. Much
disgusted, I went back to the stone, stepped
the distance, looked for blood, but could find
none, and I had almost given up the stag as
lost, when Reuben called out to me that he had
found the trail, with drops of blood, leading
across a small brook. I now sent him back
to camp, not 500 yards oJ0f, to fetch his little
dog, whilst I waited, taking care not to disturb
the trail. On his way to camp, Reuben met
with another stag, and fired three shots at it, but
without effect. I saw the deer coming my way,
bounding over the low bushes, and I was all
ready to receive him, when he turned and went
off another wa}^ having doubtless winded our
footsteps crossing the marsh.

Reuben soon returned; when following u}>

THIRD EXPEDITIOX.

223

tho blood-trail we came upon the stag lying
dead. Both bullets had passed clean through
liis body — the first right in the middle of his
carcass, the second diagonally. How he could
have travelled so far is a marvel, but it shows
how tenacious of life are these deer. The stag
was in first-rate condition, and carried a good
head.

Soon afterwards my companions returned,
one having killed a young stag, the other a
liind ; so we had a good supper of liver and
bacon and grilled kidneys. The next day two
of us went stalkino- and one remained in the
camp, as it seemed a first-rate pass for dee)'.
The Baronet took a southerly direction and
killed a small stag ; I saw nothing till return-
ing home, when we met with a stag, hind, and
calf crossino: the marshes. We manaoed to cut
them oft", and 1 wounded the stag, which tot-
tered across the marsh and then lay down, and
ought to have been bagged easily ; but, sending
two Indians round, I made too sure of him, and
went across the marsh to finish him, when he
suddenly sprang up and made off, on three legs,
at a gallop, and passing close to one of the

i: ^1^

,.1.-

f .

224

A WHITE FAWN.

Indians, who missed him, in fine style, disaj)-
pearcd in the woods, and darkness coming on,
was lost. This event did not concern me
greatly, as he was not a big stag ; hut I was
sorry to have wounded the poor creature, and
to have lost him stupidly after all.

The next day Baird killed a fine big stag
with a good head ; and as it was his first one,
he was very much pleased, and related the
details of the stalk with great excitement. I
travelled over a good deal of ground, but saw
nothing except a hind and a lovely white fawn.
The pretty creatures fed close to me whilst
sitting under the lee of a rock having some
luncheon ; and I watched them with much in-
terest as they gambolled about, quite uncon-
scious of danger, within forty yards of me.
Reuben suo-gested that the fawn's skin would
make a good rug ; and so it would have, and a
very handsome one, but nothing would induce
me to molest them. The Baronet remained in
camp, but saw nothing. It now became evi-
dent to us that our camp, though favourably
chosen for passing deer, and selected by the
Indians with that view, was badly placed for

AN OLD "tilt."

225

stalking, as we had to walk for miles to get
to dry l){irreiis; we therefore decided to shift
our ground to some higli barriins to the south
and west of us.

llie following day the Baronet, with one In-
dian, proceeded in the former direction, whilst
Baird and I, with Reuben, went in the other,
leaA ing our heavy gear in the camp in charge
of the blue-jackets. My Irish setter, " Paddy,"
came with us, as we thought we might shoot
some grouse on our way, but, unf(jrtunately,
he lost us a fine stag which we came suddenly
upon. The deer was standing hjoking at us not
more than a liundred yards oft", but seeing the
dug, which he probably took for a wolf, turned
tail and ])olted before we could get our rifles
ready. We also met some wild geese, but
failed to get a shot at them. Rather disgusted
with our l^id lu(.*k we reached an old " tilt "
about noon, and deposited our gear therein.
This tilt had been used by sportsmen before,
and though in a dilapidated condition, proved
most acceptable ; a few boughs made it wind-
tight, and the smoke going up through a hole
in the roof kept the snow from coming down.

n!^

226

"Indians' look-out."

In the afternoon we went ott' to try Home new
and likely -lookint]^ hiirreiiH. A heavy nortli-
weHt gale was blowing, with squalls of snow,
and it was hard work to keep ourselves warm
After walking s(»nie miles we ascended a jteak
called the " Indians' Look-out," from the toj) of
which we luid a s2)h*udid view of the country.
Far below us a lovely valley was spread out,
scattered with woods and lakes, and looking in
the distcince like a park ; beyond this a chain
of mountains extended to the sea, which we
could discern some thirty or forty miles oil'.
Reuben told us that from the to]) of this

•

height the Indians spied the deer, and easily
killed them as they ascended the pass ininiedi-
ately below the look-out : in fact, a more perfect
place for a deer-drive could not be imagined.
The bitter cold wind prevented us from fully
enjoying the beautiful scene before us, and we
gladly descended and took shelter in some
woods at the back, where we made a small fire
to thaw our boots and stockings. Refreshed
by a soothing pipe we proceeded cautiously
along, looking out for deer, when Reuben ex-
claimed, " Look, captain, big stag ! " as a gleam

wt

ON THE TRAIL OF A STACJ.

227

IC IH'W

north-
snow,
i warm

I top of
ountry.
ad out,
king ill
a, rliiiiu
hi<'li we
,es oft'.

of this
(1 easily
imniuih-
e pi'rft-'ct
niagiiu'd
om fully
^, and we

in some
Himall iiie
Icfreslu'il

lutiously

iiben ox-

a gleam

of Hunsliint' lit upon tlio Hnow-white ' neck of a
noble bea.st. The deer was trotting along, evi-
<lently on the track of othern ; we ran to cut
liiiii off", but he disappeared into the wo(»d,
so there was nothing for it but to f(»llow.
[|eul)en now led the way, eyes on the ground,
noting every bhade of grass pressed, stone
turned, or mud stirred, and going at a run the
whole time. The trail would have been easy
t'liough to follow but for the numerous tracks
all leading the same way, showing tluit a large
<'Oin[»any of deer had preceded us to the valley
hclow. We now strucik down through a thick
wood, picking our way by the leads or oik'U
passes, well trodden by (h'er, when, through
a space in the trees, I happened to catch a
.i,4im}>se of some white objects in the valley.
A glaii(;e through the glasses made them out to
he deer, and the big stag's hurry to get into
that valley became apparent. Picking our way
cautiously along we presently reached the val-
ley, and found ourselves within a few hundred
yards of the deer. They were scattered about

' The big .•<tags are almost wh'iUt in October, tlit-ir necks
entirely so.

228

STA(; PHEI'AKINO Full BAT'lf.K.

feeding amongst Home immonHe l)oiil(l('r.s niid
.sniull iii'H, and wc hud no difiieidty in getting
to witliin 150 yurdH of the nciire.st liind, l)ut
no .stag couhl we see.

A heavy squall now eamc; on, with l)lin(liii<;
snow, and we waited for it to clear. Suddenly
we saw a splendid stag come out of tln^ wood
behind us, accompanied l)y a hind, evidently
th anic old fellow we had seen heforc;
but we had reached tlu^ valley by a short
cut, whilst he had followed the track of tlic
others, and had picked up a mistress by the
wa}', and was in search of more. The two
beasts looked like ghosts coming so silently
through the blinding snow. Reuben no^v
climljed upon a rock, and, much to our deliglit,
said he saw two fine stags — one in chari!;e of
t' arty, the other we had just seen. A gretit
coiiiiuotion now became evident amongst tlie
hinds, and presently we saw their lord ,
master galloping about in a state of ex-
citement, calling in the stragglers, prodding
them with his horns lest any should eseapt',
and generally preparing for battle. It was
precisely the same tactics as would be per-

THE CHALLKNCJE.

900

4M •« «'

fornu'd by a man-of-war convoyini]^ a fleet of
nu'rcliaiitnicn when an enemy aimcnred.

I)uriii^ tlii« time we crept up to jijet a Hliot,
]»ut the Htji^ vvaH not .still for a moment. Onoe
1 got him and a hind in a line, luin might have
killed them both with a single ball ; l)Ut I didn't
want the hind, and the snow was coming down
so heavily it was ditHcult to see the sights of
the rifle, so I let tlie ()[»portunity ]»ass, and was
very glad 1 did s(j. Reuben now tried to
" tole " the stag, but he took no notice of the
nisc, well knowing that his real antjigonisr,
whom he must have winded l)y this time,
was eominji; down to ro)) him of his harem.
Ininiediately we heard the challenge of the
other stag to windward ; and he had not long
to wait, for the master of the herd started ofl:'
at ji gallop, and disai)peared from our view.
A moment later, and a crash as of a tree falling
rt'sounded through the valley, as the two stags'
heads met in the arena.

Now was our time : taking no further notice
of the hinds, we ran for the spot. The hinds ran
also — not Jiway from us, but with us ; and the
extraordinary sight might have Ijcen seen of

U'

:;

230

FKJHT BETWEEN STAGS.

m

Till. 'I :- 'I I

m§.

three men and some sixteen or seventeen hinds
all mixed up together to witness as pretty a
figlit as ever man behehl. In my experience
of deer-stalking, extending over many years, 1
never saw the like or expect to see again —
the scene was so grand and wild, very different
from half-tame deer fighting in a park, or even
in the Highlandn,- where they are not nnaccus-
tomed to the sight of man. Tliere, amidst the
blinding snow, were the two monarchs of the
glen, their heads down, backs arched, horns
crashing, turf flying, struggling, writhing, and
pushing for the mastery. The hinds, for whom
the battle was rao-imj;, assembled themselves
round to sec fair-play ; and we stood and
watched the combat from ten yards' distance.
The coml)atants were well matched as regards
size and weight, but the new arrival was the
fresher of the two, and had longer horns. The
owner of the seraglio had also a lovely head,
with massive symmetrical liorns ; but, exhausted
by the cares and anxiety att(^ndant on his large
family, he was slowly and surely giving way,
when we decided to ])ut an end to the contest.
Selecting the nearest l)east, 1 fired right and

liiiuls
ctty a
'rieneo
cars, 1
gain —
fferent
>r even
aaccus-
clst tlie

of the
, horns
Lis:, and
r whom
mselves
od antl
listance.

regards
was the
IS. The
ly head,
xhausted
his hirgt'

ing ^vay,

contest.

fio-ht and

ij

left

tan

staf

us,

effo

ball

but

firet

and

couj:

T]

artis

justi

and

addii

later

of ii

perfe

lu'igh

tunie

(lepai

while
two g
measi

%: !

THE COMBATANTS SHOT.

231

left into his squirming body, and Baird simul-
taneously did the same with the other. The
stags, who had paid no sort of attention to
us, now separated. One reeled and made an
eftbrt to charge, but rolled over as a third
ball pierced his carcass ; the other made off,
but had not gone far before two more shots,
fired at the same instant, dropped him also,
and the two gladiators lav dead within a
C0e.pie of hundred yards of each other.

The whole scene was a fit subject for an
artist's pencil, and I wish that I could do
justice to it ; the wild beauty of the place
and the heavy snowstorm raging at the time
adding much to the effect. A few moments
later and the scene had changed from one
of intensi' excitement and full of life to
perfect calm ; the squall passed, the sun shone.
brightly, the stags lay dead, with faces up-
turned to the cloudless sky, and the hinds had
departed.

We sat down to rest and smoke a pipe,
while Reuben performed the last rites. Our
two stags were noble specimens : I took the
measurement of one of them according to

232

MEASUREMENT OF THE STAGS.

Whitaker's scale (see almanac*) for measuring
beasts. Thus, this stag measured 5 feet 2
inches in length from fore part of shoulder-
blade along the back to root of tail, and 4 feet
10 inches in girth close behind the shoulder.
The square of the girth in feet multiplied by
five imes the length, and the product divided
by 21, shows a result of over 28 stone, whidi
will l)e probably near the mark. This weight,
400 lb. nearly, represents the beast clean — i.e.,
less head, horns, hoofs, offul, &c. — or the real
market value of the meat. It must be con-
sidered, also, that these stags were greatly out
of condition, without nn ounce of fat on them,
and that a month earlier they would have
weighed certainly 100 lb. more. The above
may be said to represent a fair *' warrantable"
stag in Newfoundland.

The day after this occurrence we sent Reuben
back to our first camp to get assistance to bring
in the heads, arranging to meet him in the
valley in the afternoon. After Ixdng snowed
up for several hours, Baird and 1 went out to
get some grouse. We found a brood, and made
a fine example of them, bagging eiglit, and

A MOCKING-BIRD.

233

tlicn made our way into the valley, where our
stags were lying. The remains were untouched,
proving what I have always maintained, that
wolves are not numerous in the island. We
waited some time, and made a fire, but no
Reuben appeared ; so we started for home, but
darkness overtook us before arriving at the
wood where our tilt was, and we lost our way.^
One l)elt of ^yood looked precisely like another
in the dark, and we tramped backwards and
forwards, knowing ourselves to be within a
quarter of a mile of our camp, but unal)le
to get there. We had almost resigned our-
selves to a night on the barrens, wet through —
no food, liquor, or matches, and no axe to
cut firewood — thermometer below zero, — when
providentially we noticed a, blaze on a tree,
and soon afterwards hit the trail ; and most
thankful were we to find ourselves once more in
our snug tilt.- Eeuben joined us next morning,

■ There is a iiidcking-bird in Newfoundland wlutse orv, Viy a
slii,'lit eff(n"t of inm<j;i)iation, may be thus interpreted: " Ken-
mdy ! Kennedy ! Kennedy ! Poor — lost Kennedy ! " repeated
lit re^^ular intervals. Our feelings on the subject may be better
imagined than described.

- A small wigwam built of poles ami bark — wind and water
ti},'ht.

U

■ wmi.'^'

.f ^

•^ ' ^

234

BRINGING IN THE MEAT.

'ri

accounting for his absence by having met witli
and killed a stag on his way to camp.

Baird with my coxwain and the lumber-
men now returned to the first camp, leaving
me to go stalking with Reuben. We joined
the others in the evening, not having seen
anything except what looked like deer a long
way off.

The Baronet also came back, having killed u
pricket, much disgusted with his bad luck.

The next day all hands went to bring in
meat, whilst Reuben and I took a stroll round,
going first to his stag, which we decapitated
and skinned ; and taking his marrow-bones and
some slices off the saddle for our luncheon, we
went on to the tilt, five miles further on, where
we made an excellent luncheon. Reuben roasted
the venison on a stick, and cooked the mar-
row-bones in the eml)ers ; he also made some
excellent bread in the wood-ashes. I never
tasted anything better than meat cooked in this
way. The Indian ate about 4 lb. of meat,
fillino- his mouth and cuttino- the balance off
square with his nose. We saw no more deer,
so bagging a brace of grouse, returned to camp,

OUR BATH INTERRUPTKD.

235

preparatory to making an early start tlie next

morning.

Whilst having our morning l)ath in a little
stream that ran past our camp, oik; of the
Indians reported three deer crossing the marsh.
I had already completed my toilet ; so seizing
tlie rifle, I ran to cut them oft", followed by the
Baronet and Baird.

The former had nothing on but a shirt, a
huge pair of boots, and a pair of spectacles,
presenting a most ludicrous appearance. Baird,
having no time to dress, had hastily donned a
flushing ulster with a hood, in which original
costume we ran across the marsh. The deer
were approaching a small clump of wood in the
centre of the marsh. Getting this in a line
with them, I was able to get within shot ; and
perceiving an immense stag through the trees,
I put a bullet into him. The stag was accom-
panied by a hind and calf : all three turned and
galloped oft"; but the Baronet now opened fire,
and with a brilliant shot tuml)led the hind over
tit fully 250 yards. The sudden disappearance
of his consort made the stag hesitate, and en-
abled me b}' running to cut him oft'. I found

Mh

230

RETURN.

him stuuding in the middle of the marsh, look-
ing very sick, whereupon I gave him both
barrels fiom the rifle, and tumbled him head-
foremost into a bush. This stag was the biggest
I ever killed, and I regret 1 did not measure
him; ])ut we were very much hurried, as I had
to get down to the ship that dny. His head
was a. good one, l)ut nothing extra ; but liis
foot was of enormous size. We measured this
foot by the side of a bullock's ftn board the ship.
They were about the same — the deer's, if any-
thing, the hirger. We brought his head and
skin into camp, leaving the meat to l)e brouglit
afterwards : the Indians said they got ten cents
per lb. for meat, and nothing would be wasted.

Another stag presently appeared, and Baird
tried to cut liim oft", but was unsuccessful.

I now started oft' with the Indians to o-et the
boats ready for the rest of the party : and after
a pretty hard day's work, reached the salt water
at 8 P.M. The Baronet, not being very well
satisfied with his luck, left us here to cross tlie
island from east to west, which he succeeded
in doing, but came very near being frozen in ou
the journey.

CHARGED WITH MASSACRING DEER.

237

On our return to St John's in the Druid, my
attention wus called to a letter which had ap-
peared in a New York i)aper, to the effect that
>Sir Rose Price and myself had massacred some
thirty caribou, and that the Druid's rigging
was adorned with trophies of the chase. The
latter portion was substantially true ; to the
former I took exception in the following letter,
which was printed in the ' New York Herald': —

" Sn?, — I have ubser\'ed with astonishment tliat, ac-
cording to local papers, Sir I'ose Trice and I have
slaughtered thirty cariliou in Newfoundland quite
lately. This statement is such a gross exaggeration,
I shall be obliged to you to contradict it.

" Tf Sir li. Price aiiil I had really been guilty of this
butchery, we should be the last persons to boast of it,
but as a matter of fact we did nothing of the kind.
Sir li. I'rice killed four deer and I three, all good
stags, and I do not think that too much after working
hard for it, as we did. I ha^■e hunted in Newfound-
laud three years in succession, and always contented
myself with three, or, at most, four stags. On each
and all occasion I could have killed hinds l)y the
dozen, but I can honestly say I never shot a hind in
Xewfoundland. I wish all sportsmen could say as
iiuich. As an old deer-stalker, I have naturally been
annoyed at seeing my name in connection with whole-

238

A CONTRADICTION.

sale slau^'hter, and I know tliat Sir IJo.se I'lice would
be equally so. Jn justice, therefore, to us, I bej? you to
do me the favour to contradict the obnoxious article,
and to convey to the author of it that he has been
lying under a mistake. For my part, 1 would sooner
be accused of manslaughter as of unsportsman-like
behaviour. — 1 am, &c. W. It. K."

inUl

Paddy and Qiiashi

239

i ■ i|

C^HAPTER Xlll.

RANDOM NOTES ON SPOUT.

t^

I HAVE endeavoured in the juveeding ehjq)tei'S
to give an idea of tlie sport to be had on
the barrens in the interior of Newfound-
land ; l)ut even without attempting an expedi-
tion on so extensive a scak' — whieh, of eourse,
means time and money — very fair sport may
be enjoyed in a quiet way with rod and gun
in any part of the ishmd. In fact, one could
hardly make a mistake by camping out on the
Itank of any of the numerous rivers, or at the
head of any of the fine harbours round the
coast ; such, for instance, as La Poile, White
Bear Bay, Bay du Nord, Hare Bay, Long Har-
bour. Accommodation can occasionally be ob-
tained in the telegraph office. The employees

■ ♦

f j

'' *

240

NOTES ON HPOllT.

are always civil and most ()l»li«»;iiio' ; uud tlio
repairer having more time; on liis IuukIh, is
usually a good sportsman and a willing guide.
A party of us spent a couple of days and
nights at the telegraph station at Long ILir-
l)our, and barring the moscpiitoes, which were
fearful, had a good time. There is a fine salmon-
river within a stone's-throw of the huuse, aiid
capital shooting on the l)arrens near at huiul.
We devoted one day to the wild geese. Accom-
panied by one of the ofticers, I started one
morning after thes(3 wary birds, and we saw
several Hocks, but failed to get a shot for some
time, owing to the vigilance of the sentry, who
was always on the look-out. Our guide cleverly
brought some towards us by imitating their cry
and waving a handkerchief, but we failed to
score, our shot being too light ; however, we
happened to mark down four on a loch, and by
stalking them got within shot and bagged three
of them. On our way back we saw quantities
of grouse and some deer, l)ut as it was the close
season we did not molest them.

Our visit to Long Harbour came about in
this way. Whilst at Havana we happened to

LVtl tlu'

lulrt, is
guulo.

ys and

cr Hill-
ill well'
salmon-
ISC', and
it huiid.

Accom-
tc'd one

we Kiiw
for rtonic
try, wlio

cleverly
their cry
failed tu
rever, we
1, aiid by
ged tlii't't'
[|viaiitities

the dose

about ill
jpeiied to

CAPTAIN MKADK, U.S.N.

241

fall ill with the United States corvette Vaii-
dulia, couunanded by Captain Uicliard Meade,
an old friend of mine in the Pacific. At that
time I cominaiided the Reindeer, and he a
small Anieri(!an sloop. When next we met at
Havana, Meade remarked, that whereas before
I had the beat ship, now^ he thought that he
had, which was the case. Whilst discussing
art'airs in general, and the neglected condi-
tion of overworked, underpaid naval otticers
in i)articuhir, we agreed that if diidomatists
would onl}' allow us sailors to settle all matters
of dispute where seafaring folk and nautical
matters were concerned, how very much better
it would be, alluding more especially to the
Fortune Bay " outrage " in particular, which we
flattered ourselves we could have settled in a
day, and probably a few thousand dollars would
have ended the matter.

I laughingly told C-aptain Meade to ask the
Secretary for the United States Navy to send
him up to Fortune Bay to meet me, and we
would settle any further difficulties over our
eigars and champagne. Whether he did so or
not, I am unaware ; but I was somewhat amused,

Q

I

i4

242

A VISIT TO THE VANDALIA.

on receipt of a telegmm from tlic Admiral, many
months afterwards, ordering me to proceed to
Fortune Bay to meet the VandaHa — on such
and such a date. I M'as there punctually to
time, but Jis the Vandalia was not, I devoted the
spare time to shooting and fishing.

On my return from this wild-goose chase afore-
mentioned, I was told the Vandalia had arrived ;
so, instead of going direct on board the Druid,
I went straight to the Vandalia to see my old
friend. It was a dark and stormy night, and
the otiicer of the watch was not a, little sur-
prised to see a wet, dirty figure coming on board
dragging a wild goose by the neck. The cabin-
door sentry wanted to stop me, but I explained
that I was the captain's cook of the Druid, and
wished to see the ca]itain ; so was atimitted,
and we had a good time together. Next day
I returned Captain Meade's official visit in
cocked hat and epaulets.^

I have reason to remembi'r Long Harbour, for
it was there my best salmon-rod was lost, on t])is
very night, I believe. It was a beautiful rod,

* The last time I saw tlic <,'allant captain he was peiiectiiii,' an
infernal machine for the (U'strnction of the entire Britisli iiavv !

LOSING A FISHING-KOD.

243

, many
cecl to
1 such
ally to
tctl the

je afore-
\iTivecl ;
; Drukl,
s my ohl
rht, and
ttle sur-
on l)oarcl
iie cabin-
ixplainod
ruid, and
admitted,
Next day
visit in

irbour, for
gt, on this
LltiiUl I'od,

built by Forrest, of Kelso, for a very dear friend,
and given to me. It is supposed to have been
kist overl)oard from the steam -cutter when
coming alongside, which sad event was not
communicated to me till next morning, when
tlie ship was searched without success. The
rod had been stowed away in its cover, and
must have sunk. To try the experiment as to
the floatation of a rod — of course without the
reel, which would sink it at once — 1 lowered my
other rod into the water witii a line f;ist to it :
it at first floated, but as the cover got wet it
sank level with the surface. This was a. lighter
rod than the missino- one, which was made of
greenheart, a very close-grained wood.

A reward was at once offered ; search-parties
were organised, who searched every bit of coast
for miles; signalmen were on the look-out,
divers sent down, l)ut all to no purpose ; and it
became evident the rod was gone. A gloom
was thrown over the whole ship's company
when it was known that the captain's pet rod
was lo«t. The skipper betook himself to his
cabin, and was '-eported to Ijc like a bear with
a 8ore head, refusing to be comforted.

^

'\'

'! I**

mmi

244

STORF.Y HARBOUR.

He had left orders not to be disturl^cd ; no
noise was permitted over his head ; the sentry
made his reports in a stealthy manner ; and
even his old and trusty friend the first lieu-
tenant appeared with a saddened countenance
when he joined the captain in his usual post-
prandial cheroot. As for the faithful Norris,
my coxwain, he durst not show himself for tlnvc
days, and then, wdth tears in his eyes, admitted
that he feared " we should never — never — see
— that lovely — rod — again." At last, to pre-
vent the entire demoralisation of the ship's
company, the doctor recommended complete
change of air and scene, so we sadly steamed
away.

Our destination was Storey Harl)our, also in
Fortune Bay, which }>la('e had never been visited
by a man-of-war since the days of Captain Cook,
and I have reason to believe that that gallant
navigator never entered it. The onl}' chart of
the place was one of Cook's ; but as his are
as a rule wonderfully accurate, considering
the time and means at his disposal in tho.^e
days, we steamed uj) the long tortuous channel
leading to the harbour with perfect confidenee.

■' " ill p {-«■ ^

AN ACCIDENT.

245

It was a lovely day, and all hands were on deck
as we neared the entrance, when, just as we
opened the harbour, we ran crash upon a rock
in mid-channel, and Ixjunded over it into deep
water. As soon as the anchor was dropi)ed, we
sounded the well, and sent divers down to ex-
amine the bottom. They reported that a great
piece of keel was wanting, so we were ordered
forthwith to Halifax for repairs ; and thus tlie
episode of the rod was forgotten.

On sounding about the rock, we found only
two feet on it at dead low water. It was not
marked on the cliart, but was well known to
the local fishermen. One old man told us he
had fished about that rock all his life, and,
said he, " When I seed the frigate a-coming in,
I says to my boy, she's on tlie rock surely ;
and so you be."

Another good all-round sporting place is Hare
Bay, on the south coast. A very pretty salmon-
river discharges itself into the head of the bay ;
there arc plenty of grouse on the barrens, and
we also invariably saw bears there : the i»lace
is uninhabited.

On one occasion the ship's steward came

lis

246

WHITE BEAR BAY.

■i' ■• ■ . 12 1

face to face with two bears, so he promptly
bolted, and never ceased running till he reached
the beach. We made up a part}^ and went
after those bears, but never found them, al-
though we saw where they had been, and the
place smelt like the bear-house at the Zoological
Gardens.

At White Bear Bay (so called Ijecause a polar
bear has never been heard of in that locality),
the telegraph-repairer had a narrow escape fvuiii
a black bear. He told me that he set a spring-
gun for one in the vicinity of the bears'
cave ; and one evening he heard a report, so
he went to see the result. The bear had evi-
dently l)een wounded, and had made good its
escape to a cave ; so the next morning the man,
accompanied by his dog, went in search of him.
On reaehino; the cave the bear charged out,
and, taking no notice of the dog, went straight
for the man. The first barrel missed fire, and
the poor fellow was so agitated that he tugged
at the triuger of the second barrel till he broke
it ; but the gun went off and killed the bear,
which was then close upon him. He had got
the skin, which was a very fine one.

THE CAPTAIN AND THE BEAR.

247

Two of our middies, whilst out shooting at
this phice, got lost, and being overtaken l)y the
darkness, and fearing to fall over a precipice,
had to remain on the hills all night without
fire or food. We were very anxious concerning
them, and landed a relief-party, headed by the
first lieutenant, with guns, ro(;kets, and blue-
lights, but they failed to find them. The lads
turned up next morning, noni^ the worse for
their adventure.

Ttdking of bears reminds me of a ridiculous
atiair that happened in Lark Harbour in the
Bay of Islands. I had gone ashore to look for
geese, accompanied as usual by my coxwain,
a big burly fellow, who, according to the habit
of Ijhie-jackets, took off his boots and walked
barefooted. We followed the shore for some
miles, leaving a trail upon the saiid. Some of
our officers also landed, and struck my trail,
followed, as they supposed, by a Ijear.

It is a well-known fact that a bear's trail
closely resembles that of a man, and may be
easily mistaken for it. It seemed evident that
the unfortunate skipper was being tracked by
the ferocious and bloodthirsty animal, and the

i

M

w .■

248

A FISH OUT OF THE WATEK.

otHcers gallautly gave chase, in hopes of shiyiiig
the bear before he liad made a meal of the ca})-
taiii. After following the track for some time,
it became apparent that the skip})er and the
bear had sat down and made a friendly meal
together, so the officers returned on board, and
I am afraid got well chaffed for their trouble.

The neighbourhood of Colinet, not far from
St John's, is a favourite resort for sports-
men. A young relative of mine was shoot-
ing there, and had had very poor luck, when
the dogs began drawing, and then came to
a steady point. Here at last arc the birds,
he thought ; but as nothing got up, he walked
forward, only to find a huge fiat-fish, alive and
kicking ! and this was three miles from the salt
water. The fish must have been dropped by an
osprey, which had probably been disturbed be-
fore it could make a meal of it.

There is another Hare Bay on the north-east
coast of Newf(jundland, which is a good sport-
ing locality. Thousands of wild ducks breed
at this place, and there are two fine rivers in it,
both holding salmon and sea-trout. The south
river used to be barred, and fished by a French-

MIRAGE.

249

man, and was therefore ruined for rod-fishing ;
l)ut in the other I killed as many trout up
to 3 lb. as we eould carry. We saw a very
remarkable mirage in this fine bay. There are
several islands dottcul about, and on this occa-
sion a few small icebergs : on looking to sea-
ward, we saw the whole of the islands and ice-
bergs reflected in the sky, but upside-down, the
visionary ones just touching the tops of the
real ones. I made a sketch of this curious
scene. Whilst fishing in the south-west l)rook,
my setter Pa(Uly disturbed a couple of snipe
which had their nest hard by. I called him off,
wlien the parent birds, after twittering round
at my feet, both flew^ up to the very top of a
high tree, where they perched. I have heard
of this before, l)ut never saw it but (jn that
occa.yiou.

Another yarn and I have done, else the
reader will think I am romancing. One day I
was crossing a river in a canoe with an Indian,
and as the craft touched the shore, a lai'ge
bittern rose from the reeds which fringed the
banks. Keuben — for it was he — quickly slipped
his axe from his belt, where Indians always keep

250

LA ruILK.

it, jiiicl cut tlic bird down in the ii'ii; inorely
rcniui'king ;us he did ho, "lie do for suliuoii-

1 niust not omit tonit'ntion in the list of sj)()it-
ing phices the fine harbour of La Poih', vvherL'
we often anchored, 'riiere is a settlement near
the entrance of the liarl)our, but tlie mouth of
the river is ten miles further up. By following
the main branch of tlie stream another five
miles of most villanous walking, a, first-rate
camping- place will be found, close to what they
call the salmon-hole. This is simply a deep
})ool confined by rocky banks on either side, a
most ronuintic and secluded spot, where a party
of s})ortsnien could i)itcli their camp without
fear of molestation, for there is not a living
soul nearer than the settlement, fifteen miles
off. The river abounds with salmon and seu-
trout ; the barrens are well stocked with grouse,
and are easy of access ; and there are plenty of
deer within a day's march, or say fifteen miles
from the valley. Supplies of all kinds can be
got at the settlement, and the storekeeper
is, or used to be, a very obliging man. La
Poile has also the advantage of being a port

LITTLE HIVKK.

251

III

(if (.'Jill for the coa.stal steamers, so it is easy to
o'ct at.

Altog(!ther, J. do not know any place combin-
ing «o many adv^antages. There is another sjjot
I have in my mind's eye, l)ut little known, and
seldom visited, and then only by a man-of-war,
called liittle River. The entrance is so nar-
row that it is scarcely visible from seaward,
Ijt'ing a, mere cleft in the rocks, which rise
almost per})endicularly on either side ; a nar-
row l)Ut steep channel, clear of all dangers,
leads to a magnificent basin. To any one pos-
sessing a steam-yacht, 1 can recommend this
beautiful harbour. The settlement is four
miles from the entrance ; we visited it twice
ill the Druid, firing our guns for the echo ; and
iit night we illuminated the ship, for the edifica-
tion of the unsophisticated inhabitants.

A very snug anchorage is Port au Basque—
eonnnonly called Channid ; and although there
is no river flowing into the harljour, a beautiful
stream Hows into the neighbouring bay, called
Grand Bay Brook. This can be reached either
by walking over the barrens or by dragging a
boat over a neck of land, and launching it on

■i

I- . I

,« )

n

H ''

,1

:i

t>

i

y

I! >" '

i ';

252

t'IKCULAK HOLES IN ROCKS.

the otlicr Hide, wlicii tlie rivor can 1)C at gium;
entered. A long " steady " of dee}) still water
terminatos in a series of tuml>liiig caseades, with
lovely pools for salmon ; aljovc this again is ii
series of rapids and ])ools for four or five miles,
ending, as most of tlie rivers in NewfoundLiiid
do, in a magnificeiit deep i)ool with preeipitoiis
Itanks, and a s}>lendid fall at the liead, flowing
out of the lake, from whence tlie river takes its
rise. I noticed al)out the fall several circular
holes in the rocks, deeply scored, with perfect
regularity and smoothness ; and J could not
make out what luul caused these holes, which
are quite difi'erent from the grooves made hy
ice, as may l)e seen on all the rocks in that
country. At last I discovered the cause, quite
accidentally ; in one of the holes was a stoue,
which revolved round with the eddying
waters. This stone had probably lodged in a
depression, and by the action of the water for
ages past had made the hole, and w^orii itself
round in doing so. I have since seen the same
in Scotland, wherever there is a heavy fall of
water ; and under the bridge at Killin, in Perth-
shire, one may be seen, which I measured, four

EAST KIVKK.

253

feet deep. But in some cases tlicre is no stone
at the bottom of the hok'. How it eoiihl get
out I cannot say, espec'inlly in an uninhabited
sj)ot, where no one wouhl remove it ; })erliaps
it may liave worn itself out.

I fishecl (irand Bay Brook one day from its
source to the sea ; took out twelve trout, weigh-
ing 36 lb., and on anotlier occasiim a small
grilse. There are salmon in it ; Init I fear it
is very much i)oached.

But 1 might multii)ly these sort of sporting
paradises ad injinitiim, as my mind carries mc
back to the old fjimiliar scenes. Some of the
best of them are inaccessible to the (;asual tra-
veller, and can only he visited by a man-of-war.
If I were asked which is the best river in New-
foiuuUand or Labrador, I should say the East
riv(>r, at Hawke's Bay, for the former, and
Forteau river for the latter. In both these
rivers a fine salmon-pooI will be met with,
not far from the mouth ; and at each pool a
large rock will be seen near the head, upon
which many naval captains have stood, rod
in hand. Should any one have the luck to
be at Hawke's Bay, on or about the r2th July,

254

LAHllADOR FISIIKIIV.

or at Forteau ixhowt the 20tli, I will ^jfuaraiitcc
liim fine Kport. It is u ciirioUH fact that the
sahnoii enter the river.s ahnost to a (hiy, — and
a remiirkabh' eoincich-nee that H.M. Hhi}).s arc
generally to he found at those spots about the
same time ! It is fortunate that duty and i)lea.s-
ure may often be combined. Bonne Bay, nu
the west coast, has also some noble streams;
and Deer Brook, one of the smallest of them,
cannot be beat for sea-trout.

Some idea of the extent of the Lalmidor
fishery may be gathered from the fact tliiit
upwards of a thousand fishing-vessels visit that
coast annuall}', carrying between 30,000 and
40,000 men, mostly from Newfoundland. T\\v
season opens about the middle of June, and lasts
till October. Many of the fisher}'-fieet carry
women, to aid in curing the fish. It is impossi-
ble to overrate the importance of these fisheries,
and it is calculated that one-third of the whole
catch of cod-fish is taken on the Labrador coast.
There are at least 1000 miles of coast available
for fishing purposes, and Professor Hind esti-
mates the total area of this vast fishing-ground
at upwards of 7000 sijuare miles. On the whole

ujiraiitcc
that tlu!
ly, — and
iliipH are
l)out the
iid pleas-
Bay, (»n
strwinis ;
of tlicni,

Ijal)ra(lor
■act that
^'isit tliat
000 and
lid. TIr'
and lasts
eet carry
; impossi-

fishcries,
:lie whole
ilor coast.

availalth'
Liud esti-
lir-groiuid
the whole

LABKAlxm FISMKRY.

255

of this, cod, ]n'iTiii;i;H, .salmon, mackerel, and
lohnterH abonnd ; in fact, tlie ti.sheries of the.
Labrador may be aaid to be inexhau.stible. The
scnl-fishery is a very lucrative and important
industry, (^uite a fleet of steamers, carryin<^
from 200 to 300 men each, is em[)loyed in it,
and the average capture of seals is estimated at
;500,000 to 400,000 in a single season.

But with regard to Labrador, my infor-
mation must necessarily be somewhat meagre^
seeing that our visits there were few and far
between, and then were generally restricted to
tlic south coast ; so that with the exception of
the Forteau river, one of the best, I really am
no authority.

But I feel confident that some grand sport is
to be obtained in that country by any one who
is i»repared to rough it. There are many fine
rivers in the Newfoundland division of Labrador,
such as the Eagle river, second to none in the
(*anadian portion ; and I have little doubt that
as good sport could be obtained there as on
the Mingan river, or other famous streams of
Ciuiada or New Brunswick.

Caribou are said to be very plentiful in Labra-

■|

l!l.v,t

f:r

256

LABRADOR.

dor, but I cannot speak from experience. Grouse
and curlew are found in abundance, besides otlier

game.

The country is bleak and sparsely populated,
and but little is known of it, except perhaps to
the missionaries who reside there, and the clergy
who periodically visit it. Even our good Bislioj)
of Newfoundland has to l)rave the stormy ocean
in a 30-ton yawl to make his yearly visit to
those barren shores.^ Certainly the clergy in
those regions have no sinecure ; and a man must
not cnly have his heart in his work, but be also
a good sailor and able to rough it to do his duty.
All honour to such noble men; their motto is,
Deeds, not words.

I have now, I think, touched on most subjec+s
which are likely to interest the reader, and it
only remains for me to bid adieu to Newfound-
land, with its iron-bound coasts, its fogs, mid
ice. But notwithstanding these slight draw-
backs, I confess to a warm regard for the dear
old colony ; for do I not know that within tliiit
icy barrier there nre warm hearts and true lios-

* Bermudii i« al^^o incliuleil in his iliocose.

DEPARTURE FROM NEWFOUNDLAND. 257

3. Grouse
iides other

populiitcd,
perhaps to
the ch'i'gy
ood Bishoj)
)riny ocean
•ly visit to
i clergy in
I man must
but be also
lo his duty.
ni' motto is,

Lost subjec+s
ider, and it
) Newfouiul-
bs fogs, aiul
slight draw-
for the dear
; within that
lid true hos-

v^ ! For three successive seasons I had
circumnavigated those shores, made acquaint-
ance with some of its rocks, inhaled the fogs,
and had friendly rubs against the ice, in all of
wliich encounters the poor old Druid got the
worst of it, bearing scars upon her hull which
she will carry to her grave.

At last the day arrived when we took our
departure, and turned our faces to the sunny
south, to meet with fresh adventures in a dif-
ferent clime. But never shall I forget the many
lioppy days I have passed in that grand old
island ; and as the Druid sped swiftly on her
wa} towards Halifax, with her canvas swelling
to the breeze and tlie water foaming at her
l)ows, I took a last lingering look over her
counter, wondering if I sliouhl ever see those
shores again.

It is gratifying to me to find that, since these
hues were penned, my hopes regarding the col-
ony have been to a great extent realised.

Th(^ railway which is to connect the capital
witli the milling regions, touching the principal
towns, and opening up the most fertile lands

B

I

i ii

i J

258

PROGRESS IN NEWFOUNDLAND.

i'

for settlement, lias been commenced, and already
several miles of it are in working order, and
its completion is, I believe, expected shortly.
That this will confer an inestimal)le benefit on
the colony, cannot l)e doubted.

Not less in importance is the prospect of the
so called " French Shore " question being vir-
tually settled, l)y the local Government l)eing
empowered to issue grants of land for mining
and agricultural purposes. A rapid increase of
the population on those shores may therefore
be expected.

The a})pointment of magistrates on that part
of the coast is also an important fact, whicli
should give contentment to the fishermen of
Newfoundland, while the claims of the Frencii
will also be respected.

These measun's will go far to promote that
harmony between the two countries whicli has
been wanting in the past, but wdiich is so niiuli
to be desired.

259

CHAPTER XIV.

BERMUDA, WEST INDIES, AND THE SPANISH MAIN.

After ca short spell at Halifax, that paradise
ot uaval officers, we proceeded regularly every
season to Bermuda, to refit and prepare for the
AVest Indies, Avhere we spent three successive
winters, arriving at Port Royal, Jamaica, in
time to eat our Christmas dinner, and leaving
the West Indies again on our northern passage
a1)out the end of INlareh or early in April, so as
to reach St John's on or before the Queen's
l>irtliday. In this way we visited Bermuda on
our annual migrations north and south no less
than seven times, during the commission of three
and a half years. A passing glance at these
lovely islands may, therefore, be not out of
place here.

4)

■ ■M''

11;

iilli

IS*'

260

BERMUDA.

Moore's "beautiful isle of the sea." Opinions
are divided as to wlietlier Bermuda is an eartlily
paradise or one of the most monotonous places
under heaven. Bermudians declare tlie former
to be the case ; most naval officers, and probably
military ones also, incline to the latter opinion :
the truth lies between tl»e two.

The approach to the islands from seaward is
certainly very lovely, and the 2)leasing impression
remains after onc^ has skirted the reefs at the
entrance and come to an anchor inside. The
first thing that attracts the eye of a new-comer
is the wonderful clearness and lovely colouriiio-
of the water, a pale greenish blue, and the beau-
tiful whiteness of the coral strand. The water is
so clear that the reefs are j)h^iidy visible, and it
would be possible for even a stranger to thread
his way between them on a clear day. But
ships are obliged to take a pilot, and indeed it
would be safer to do so in any case, as the chan-
nels are narrow, and a mistake with the helm
will at once put a ship ashore; besides, with the
sun in one's eyes, the reefs and buoys are not
easily seen. The contrast between, the snowy
white houses and the dark foliage of the juni-

BERMUDA.

261

s

pillions
earthly
3 places
; former
robaldy
►pillion :

iward is
pression
3 at the
Ic. The
w-comer
jolouring
lie beau-
; water is
le, and it
to threatl
ay. But
indeed it
the chau-
thc helm
, with the
s are not
lie snowy
the juni-

per-cedar is especially beautiful and refreshing
to the eye, wearied by the monotony of gazing
on the sea for several days previonslj'. It
would be dithcnlt to find a more lovely spot
tliaii Admiralty House, the residence of the
Commander-in-C/hief for several months in the
winter ; or Mount Langton, the Governor's per-
manent residence. The senior naval officer's
house on Ireland Island is also an enchanting
spot, built in the bungalow style, with a l)road
verandah round, and enveloped in a wealth
of foliage. Curiously enough, tlie two most
l)eautiful places on that side are the hospital
and the cemetery ! The reason why there is so
much diversity of o})inion regarding Bermuda
is because naval officers are destined to see
the worst part of it. The ships are usually
moored alongside the camber, where the dock-
yard is, for convenience in refitting ; a hot,
dusty, ghiiing place, swarming witli Hies and
mos(piitoes, and from which there is but one
way of escape, a dreaiy, monotonous, dusty
road.

For those fond of yachting and 1)oat-sailing,
or sea-fishing, Bermuda presents unusual attrac-

262

CLIMATE.

Ipii

tious. The sky is of the l)luest ; the water a
lovely emerald -green, revealing in its depths
wonderful corals, sponges, shells, and sea-weeds,
with many kinds of brilliantly mnrked fish
swimming alxiut their rocky home. Overhead
the snow-white " boatswain " birds circle round,
the delicate tints of the water being; retlectod on
their breasts.

For several months in the year the climate
is most agreeable — a fresh sea - breeze blows
througli the day ; and a more enjoyable expedi-
tion can hardly be imagined than a tri]) over to
Hamilton, the caves of AValshingham, or Har-
rington Sound, in one of the celebrated 'Mudian
boats. These boats are uneipialled in their own
waters at beating to windward, but their modul
is defective. They are no good off the wind, as
they would soon run themselves under water,
and, being heavily ballasted, would go down
like a stone. JMoreover, in a sea - way thoy
would pitch their mast over the bows, and from
their blutf entrance would iu3t hold their own
against any of our crack yachts, of their own
tonnage, either on or off the wind. They are,
however, most pictures(pie and handy, and aiv

ii^

FATTENING SEA-FISH.

2G3

vator a
depths
-weeds,
ed fish
vorhcad
', round,
!cted on

climate
e blows
expedi-
> over to
or Hav-
'Miuliaii
heir own
■ir model
wind, as
,'r water,
o-o down
ray they
and from
heir own
heir own
They are,
, and are

well suited for the waters for which they are
intended.

In Harriniijton Sound tliere is a. place called
tlie Devil's Hole, wliere sea -fish are kept to
fiitten. This hole or cave is open at the top,
and being connected with the S(3a by sub-
terraneous passages, the tide ehb.s and Hows
into it, thus keeping it always sweet. The
fish are caught outside on the reefs and placed
in here till re<juired : they are fed regularly,
and get very fat and saucy, coming over to
the side and gral)l)ing at anything offered
them, even a pocket-handkerchief. The hole is
very deep, so the fish do not lose their eyesight,
as deep-sea fishes will wdien put into shallow
water. Some of these monsters weigh thirty
and forty pounds, and are very voracious. I
once drew a spoon-bait across the hole ; it was
chased by tlie whole lot : one seized it, and I
had a great jol) to get him out, as he dived deep
and got under a ledo'e. Sharks and turtle are
occasionally put into this place : the angel-fish
are especially pretty and graceful.

For deep-sea fishing the natives use a water-
telescope, which is merely a long S(piare box

!f :|i:

i

2G4

HAMILTON.

with a glass at one end. By lowering this a})-
paratus into the water, everything l)eeome.s
visible as though there was no water : the effect
is quite beautiful, as the fish can be seen swim-
ming about amongst the lovely corals, shells,
and sea-weed which clothe the bottom of these
seas.

Hamilton, the capital of the islands, is l)eau-
tifully situated at the head of a fine bay, sur-
rounded on all sides by well - wooded hills.
In this neigh] )ourliood are many fine country-
houses, belonging to the well-to-do merchants,
snugly nestling amongst lovely gardens, their
white walls often nearly hidden by roses,
geraniums, and many kinds of fiowers, azaleas
being especially common. Even the residences
of the huml)ler classes are models of neatness
and comfort ; in this respect Bermuda will bear
favourable com])arison with any part of the
world. It is the cleanest little place I ever
saw, the houses so tidy, the roads so well kept,
— nowhere is there any evidence of scpialor or
poverty. The people may be poor, but they all
look contented and happy in that bright sun-
ny clime. As there are no fresh -water lakes,

>iHi^^'

p I ^1

BIRDS.

2G5

this ap-
l)ecome.s
:ie effect
11 swini-
\, shells,
of these

is l)eau-
)ay, siir-
k1 hills,
eouiitry-
Brchaiits,
us, their
y roses,
,, azaleas
esidenees
neatness
will bear
t of the
6 I ever
veil kept,
lualor or
t they all
ight siin-
ter lakes,

or rivers, the rain-water is collected in huge
tanks, and the supply is always equal to the
demand. The soil on tlie principal ishmds is
very rich, and the finest crops of potatoes, toma-
toes, and onions are raised, and sJiipped in large
quantities to the United States. There arc^ no
])irds iiidio;enous to the islands that I am aware
of, but birds of passage frequently visit it, either
from choice or blown off from the mainland.
Ill this way ducks and snipe are occasionall}'
heard of in the marshes, when the whole gar-
rison turns out. The Virginian (juail have been
introduced and multiplied, also the Virginian
cardinal, and a very pretty blue l)ird about the
size of a sparrow : these two last add greatly
to the (jiiiet beauty of the woods by their bril-
liant colouring. They are, I lielieve, now pro-
tected by law.

Life at these islands must necessarily be
somewhat monotonous. No telegrams disturb
the serenity of the inhabitants, and for ui)wards
of twenty years that I have known the place,
I have observed but little change. Many prefer
it as it is ; but it is certainly monstrous that a
military and naval station of such importance

I ■»'

2GG

BERMTDA IMPRKfJNABLE.

.sliould not 1)0 ill tclcj^rtqdiic (toniimiuicatiou
with Halifax, tlu^ West ludiuH, and the; UnitiMl
States. Geographically npeaking, Bermuda is
admirably situated, being a half-way port for
our shi})s going to and from the northern to
the southern part of the station. As a fortress
it is imju'egnable, being guarded on every side
by a natural reef, extending for miles in almost
all directions. The passages through these reefs
are known only to the local pilots, who are sworn
to secrecy ; and by taking up the buoys and
substituting torpedoes, it would be very awk-
ward for any enemy's ship to approach. Even
if she once got inside, she ougli, never to get
out again. At any rate, as the Yankee said
when his cow" was run over by an express train,
she would prol)ably be " somewdiat discouraged."
Americans have taken to visiting the islands
of late years, and have infused a good deal
of energy into the community. A hotel bus
sprung up, and fast steamers now run the mails
to and from New York, making the passage in
a little over fifty hours. At certain seasons of
the year violent gales sweep over the islands,
and in fact they may be said to lie directly

IIOUTK-S TO THE WK8T INDIKS.

2G7

iiiciitioii
United
iiudii is
})<)rt for
thi'i'U to
, fortress
•cry side
11 almost
lose reefs
ire sworn
loys and
cry iuvk-
1. Even
'V to get
ikce said
l'ss train,
juraged."
0 islands
;ood deal
[lotel lias
the mails
assage in
easons of
e islands,
3 directly

r

in the ]>uth of the West Indin hiirrieaiu's. I )urin«i"
the summer the heat is most op[)ressive, oily
cahns prevail for days togethiM', ami tlie mos-
([uitocs and flies render one's lif<^ a l)ur(len. To
sum up Bermudu in ji few words, it is a pleasant
place to spend a few weeks in tiie winter-time ;
l)ut as a permanent residence, 1 ^vould not care
ahout it !

There are several routes from Bermuda to
the West Iiidi<'s — the AVindward, the Crooked
Island, and the iM(ma passage. For a sailing-
ship the last is perhaps the safest, and it
was this route we generally s(dected in tiie
Druid, so as to carry fair winds, and thus enal)le
us to make the passage as muidi as possible
under sail, and also avoid the dangerous shoals
wliicli infest the more direct steamer's route.

Nine or ten days' pleasant sailing usually car-
ried us to Port Koyal, tin; headquarters of H.M.
.ships on the Jamaica division of the AVest Indies.
The first appearance of the island of Jamaica is
exceedingly beautiful, especially if approaching
from the eastward. The l>lue mountains rise to
upwards of 5000 feet, and are clothed almost to

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268

JAMAICA.

liieir summits with tropical vegetation. As one
approaches nearer, the valleys may be observed
to be well cultivated with sugar, tobacco, Indian
corn, interspersed with cocoa-nut and banana
plantations. Drawing nearer to Kingston, the
capital of the island, the country assumes a more
arid appearance, and has justly been likened to
a piece of brown paper crumpled up, until at last
the acme of desolation is reached at Port Royal,
where the dockyard is situated, and where moor-
ings are laid down for H.M. ships. Merchant
vessels proceed to Kingston, four or five miles
further, at the head of a fine bay.

The usual custom for H.M. sliips stationed at
Jamaica, under the orders of the Commodore, is
to remain only a short time at Port Royal, and
then, after visiting the harbours on the north
side of the island, to give leave to the men, pro-
ceed on a cruise to Cuba, Haiti, Belize, or the
Spanish Main. I propose, after a few remarks
on Jamaica itself, to relate our experience of the
others as we visited them. I have every reason
to speak kindly of this island — three successive
winters having been passed most pleasantly in
the West Indies, with our headquarters at Ja-

\W\

ITS SANITARY CONDITION.

269

maica, — mostly at Port Royal, it is true, but also
visitiiig the beautiful liar])ours on the northern
shores ; so that, like most naval officers, I have
been able to form a pretty good idea of the
island. Jamaica has, I fear, a bad name at
home — a name too often associated with earth-
quakes, hurricanes, and yellow - jack ; but in
reality, the last place one hears of such things
is at Jamaica itself. I am sure that statistics
would show that Jamaica was as healthy a j)lace
as tliere is on the globe, and far more so than
]\lalta or Gibraltar, Cyprus or Halifax. At all
these places, fevers, smallpox, diphtheria, or
Ijronchitis, are common enough ; whereas at
Jamaica they are rare. Fever of a remittent
type is not uncommon amongst Europeans,
caused generally by undue exertion or expos-
ure to the sun ; but this is only a question of
quinine, and is not often serious. As to yellow
fever, it is almost unknown, unless brought there
from Havana, Haiti, or Colon. As a matter of
fact, there was not one single case of yellow
fever at Port Royal during the whole time we
were ti:<ere — three winters, off and on ; and for
a whole year there was not one death in

i,

t

T'fmmmm

M. i

I I'll

270

EARTHQUAKES.

the Naval Hospital from any cause whatever !
What place could say the same ? As for earth-
quakes, there was a very bad one in lGi)2,
which swallowed up Port Eoyal — since when,
there has not been anything to speak of. As
regards hurricanes, there was a bad one three
or four years ago, which did a deal of damage ;
but there had not l)een one for sixty years
previousl}^ These facts speak for themselves.
The fact is, the climate is good enough for
those who take ordinary precautions, and are
moderate in eating and drinking. Many people
iire able to live out there in health and com-
fort who would die in Eno-land. Durino- the
summer months the heat is unpleasant, but
seldom ojipressive, except, perhaps, on the low
grounds ; but the climate of the hills is always
delightful, and speedily restores the bloom to
the cheeks of ladies and children who have found
their constitutions tried by the hot weather.
Like all these Leeward West India islands,
the north side is far superior to the south:
the temperature is far more genial, and the
scenery more beautiful ; rains are more abundant,
and the foliage more luxuriant. A more lovely

HOSPITALITY.

271

spot can hardly bo imagined tlian Oclio Rios,
with its wonderful ferns and orchids, and its
tumbling cascades. Port Antonio is also a
beautiful spot, so is Lucea, and Montego Bay.
All these places are on the north side, exposed
to the pure and healthy sea-breeze from the
Atlantic.

From my own experience, I can honestly
aver that the hospitality for which Jamaica has
always been justly celebrated has not died out,
although I fear in many cases the planters are
not in the position to entertidn as they once
were. Still, be they rich or poor, I am bound
to say that we were ahvays heartily welcomed
wherever we went ; and what more could we
desire ?

As regards the planters, I fear their look-out
is not a bright one, and I suspect that the sugar
estates which are paying a dividend could be
counted on one's fingers. How can it be other-
wise, when labour is so difficult to procure ? It
is the fashion to abuse the black man for a lazy
rascal, who won't work. AVell, perhaps he is ;
Itut I should like to know who would work, if
he had all he wanted in the matter of food and

'}

272

COOLIE LABOUR.

clothing without having to work for it ? Cer-
tainly not the labouring class'^s in England, nor
any other country. They work simply because
they would starve if they didn't. The black
man in Jamaica can't starve, and he works just
sufficiently to keep himself and his ftimily alive,
which means a couple of days a- week. A few
bananas keep him going ; and a little patch of
ground to grow cassava, yams, sugar-cane, or
cocoa, which require little cultivation, is enough
for his wants. The women carry the produce
into market, obtaining the wherewithal to pay
the rent and taxes (a few shillings per annum),
and keep them in clothing, which is not a very
heavy item in a tropical climate, where the
grown-up people wear but little, and the chil-
dren nothing at all.

The importation of coolie labour has been
tried, and I believe successfully, on some estates;
but the coolie does not as a rule care to remaiu
in the country. He saves every penny, and
having piled his savings, in the shape of bangles
and necklaces, on to the person of his wife and
himself, embarks by the first coolie-ship, and
returns to his native country. Probably China

TtFT

. ? Cer-
md, nov
because
le black
)rks just
ily alive,
. A few
patch of
-cane, or
.s enougli
! produce
lal to pay
L' annum),
ot a very
liere the
the chil-

iias been

', estates;

to remain

a

rmy,

and

)f bangles
wife and
ship, and
ly China

CHINESE LABOUR.

273

men would do well. In' all countries where
Chinese labour has been introduced — witness
California, Peru, &c. — they have undoubtedly
been the means of developing the resources of
the country, care being taken not to let the
Chinamen increase and multiply too rapidly.
In California this is regulated by stopping the
How of emigration, or shipping them back to
their own country. In Peru a simpler and
speedier method has been adopted — i.e., whole-
sale massacre, which is doubtless a convenient
method of ridding themselves of a troublesome
intruder ! The emancipation of the slaves has
been the ruin of many fine estates in Jamaica.
One has only to drive into the country in any
direction to see the remains of what were once
fine houses, and the ruins of sugar-factories,
—truly a sad scene of desolation.

There are, however, other industries besides
sugar to be considered, requiring less labour,
and it is in this direction that prosperity will, I
believe, eventually return to Jamaica. Accord-
ing to late statistics, I see that the value of the
sugar and rum exported in the year 1882 would,
it is estimated, reach one million sterling.

S

1

:iif i

I

274

CINCHONA CULTIVATION.

i'l...

Coffee has declined in value owing to the low
price of the article at home, but the exportation
of logwood and pimento has increased. The
cultivation of tobacco has been attempted on
a large scale, and Jamaica cigars arc "ow familiar
in the London market. Our experience of them,
however, would not give them the preference
over genuine havanas. But the most important
industry attempted of late years is the cultiva-
tion of cinchona,^ which is being prosecuted
with wonderful success by Mr Morris, the
Government botanist, whose estate is pictur-
esquely situated 5000 feet above the level of
the sea. Mr Morris is doing a great deal to
permanently benefit the island. Besides cin-
chona, he has, I understand, a quantity of young-
teak, mahogany, and cedar trees ready for dis-
tribution to those who care to have them.

Cattle-rearing is a risky business, except iu
some of the favoured parts of the island, where
droughts are unknown. On the lowlands, where
the rainfall is uncertain, irrigation becomes
necessary, and this enters into expense. The
raising of fat cattle has, moreover, been over-

^ Quinine.

' i i:

V;

tlic low
ortation
d. The
pted on
familiar
of tliem,
reference
mportant
s cultiva-
rosecuted
jrris, the
Ls pictur-
3 level of
t deal to
ides cin-
of young
y for dis-

lem.

except in
nd, where
Lids, where
becomes
nse. The
cen over-

RAINFALL.

275

done, and the breed has in consequence depre-
ciated in value.

The rainfall seems to be cut off l)y the moun-
tainous i.-ange in the interior, and is very un-
equally divided. On the south side people aic
often starved for want of water, while on the
north they have abundance — often too much.
Naturally the whole features of the country are
altered : the southern slopes of the mountains
have a barren and withered appearance, and
the plains are parched, hot, and dusty. The
north side is precisely the reverse : here may
be seen tropical vegetation in all its glory, with
lovely flowers, ferns, and orchids to delight
the naturalist. Most of the fruit is groAvn on
this side, and immense quantities of bananas
and cocoa-nuts are shipped to the United States
— mostly from Port Antonio, a very flourishing
and rising little place with an excellent harbour.
For lovers of scenery, no more beautiful spot
could be found than the Bog Walk or the public
gardens at Castleton. The neighbourhood of
Cliapelton is also very beautiful ; nowhere have
I seen such magnificent clusters of bamboo as
in this district.

¥

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276

FORESTS AND THE RAINFALL.

The question of droughts is bocoming a very
serious coiisidemtion, Miid one may naturally
inquire, how are they caused ? They used not
to exist in former years to the extent they do
now. I am therefore driven to the eonclusion
that they must in a measure be caused by inter-
ference with the hiws of nature. In all countries
where timber has been wantonly cut down with-
out replanting, drought succeeds. Madeira is
an instance of this, so is Mauritius. The former,
as its name implies (madera heing Spanish for
wood), was once thickly wooded ; what is it now ?
The vines have been destroyed by drought,
caused by cutting down the timber wholesale,
Mauritius suffered severely by the destruction of
forest-trees until it was stopped ; and Jamaica
is undergoing the same process — the heavy tim-
ber being ruthlessly destroyed at such a rate as
to seriously affect the rainfall. According to Mr
Espeut, there are upwards of eighty kinds of
valuable trees in Jamaica — most of them of use
for building ships, houses, carts, fences, shing-
ling roofs, staves for casks, or suitable for masts
and spars. Among the most useful of these
are the teak, mahogany, cedar, box, pimento,

INDISCRIMINATE CLEARING.

2V7

Honduras for making dug - outs — /,(
dug from a single tree.

malioe, cashew, rosewood, lancewood, ebony,
Spanish oak, naseberry, fustic, yacca, Santa
Maria, &c. A very vahiable wood named
Tibrush is hirgely used by tlie Caril)S of

canoes
I do not think this
wood is known in Jamaica. Ilie negroes are
iu the habit of cutting down these line trees
indiscriminately for the purpose of cultivating
the land. This would be all very well, pro-
vided that they kept it under permanent culti-
vation, which they do not. After a year or so
they leave that clearing and move on, destroy-
in o- more timber to get fresh soil. These clear-
ings soon become jungle, and no fresh trees are
planted. In this way thousands of acres of
forest are destroyed. Unless Government put
a stop to this practice, rains will cease to a
great extent, and agriculture must suffer.

A great drawback to Jamaica (and I suppose
the same applies to all our colonies more or less)
seems to be the indifference with which so many
regard the future of the country. Every one
naturally hopes to go back to the " old coun-
try " some time or other, and the object seems to

■i k.

■

1 \r

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t

■:*

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Li--

278

INDIFFEllIONCE OF THE COLONISTS.

be to get all one can out of tlic island, and tlu'ii
clear out, leaving those who come after them to
do the same. But there mast be many residing
in the colony who arc destined to spend most
of their days there, and can no 2V liope to
realise sufficient to live at home at ease. If
such people would only face this fact, and recon-
cile themselves to it, they might, by devoting
themselves to the permanent improvement of
their estates, not only be more happy and con-
tented themselves, but leave their fiimilies
better provided for. Many people, I fancy,
expect too much from a colony. They go out
with a few thousands, and probably make a very
fair living out of it for years, getting a good
return for their investments, and living in fine
style, with carriage and horses and servants ;
but because they don't make a fortune, think it
" hard lines," and grumble at the place, forget-
ting that the same amount invested in England
would have brought them only a small return,
and far fewer comforts. One of the great nui-
sances the sugar-planters have had to contend
against, has been the rats which swarmed over
the island, destroying the canes, and killing

rs.

und then
I- them to
J roaitlinpr

end niOHt

hope to

ease. If

iiid recon-

devoting

'ement of

and con-

• famiUes

I fancy,

ley go out

Like a very

ig a good

iq; in fine

servants ;

!, think it

3e, forge t-

1 England

[ill retm-ii,

great nui-

0 contend

'med over

id killing

MONOOOSKS.

279

poultry, &e. To get rid of these pests, the
mongoos was introduced by Mr Espeut, and
with such success that the rats have almost
disappeared; and on sugar estates, where for-
merly they had to pay £200 and £300 per
annum for killing rats, they now have to pay a
mere trifle. But the mongoos has now mul-
tiplied to such a prodigious extent as to be
nearl}'" as great a nuisance as the rats. Al-
ready there arc those who maintain that this
little animal does more harm than good, by
killing poultry; and probably he does, ex-
cept to the sugar-planters. In the meantime,
he may have credit for the good that he has
done ; what the verdict will be ten years hence,
remains to be seen.

As regards the town of Kingston, there is
not much to be said in its fiivour. In general
appearance it bears no sort of comparison with
either Havana or Matanzas, and in the matter of
cleanliness it would hardly compare favourably
with Port au Prince. There is not a single
hotel in the town worthy the name — a couple of
boarding-houses affording the only accommoda-
tion for passengers and visitors ; conse(|uently,

rm

:. i fi

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♦ :,

\%

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\

280

PORT ROYAL.

any English tourists of position are entertained
by the Governor at King's House, — a tax of no
small consideration on his Excellency's hospi-
tality. The harbour of Kingston is considered
one of the best in the West Indies ; but the
sea-l)reeze, which often blows with great vio-
lence, sends in a considerable sea, making it
frequently very dangerous for boats. The port
might be imj)roved by cutting through the pali-
sadoes at the narrowest part, making the en-
trance to the eastward : by placing a lighthouse
at this entrance, ships might enter the harbour
at all times of night, and save a long detour.

Port Eoyal has been the bugbear of naval
officers from time immemorial, and the bad
name which it bears has been to a certain ex-
tent ascribed to Jamaica generally. But most
unjustly so. As well might a person judge
of England from a residence at Sheerness !
In this respect I fear my own cloth are not
guiltless, for I have known naval men abuse
Jamaica who seldom left Port Royal, and never
went further than Kingston. The place is bad
enough, but, like many another place, is not
half so bad as it is painted. The Commodore's

PORT ROYAL.

281

house is a fiuo one, with a good billiard-table
and plenty of baths — a great luxury in a hot
climate ; and the dockyard and hospital are
models of cleanliness and good order. An
officers' club and seamen's recreation rooms
add greatly to the attractions of the place.
The part called by courtesy the town is a

nrj^^^vfc.

Port Royal, yama'ica,

collection of filthy hovels, but the authorities
have no control over that. The whole place
ought to be under the supervision of the
Government : £20,000 would buy the ground,
and the town might then be laid out with
an eye to cleanliness and decency. Water
might be brought down by pipes, laid along

1' ';■«;■ .

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282

SPORT IN JAMAICA.

the palisadoes from the Hope river, or, if the
fall be not sufficient, an iron steam-tank, capable
of being also used as a tug, would answer the
purpose, instead of the rotten old leaky wooden
sailing-tanks which supply brackish water to
the town and shipping as at present. Brackish
water may be very wholesome, but, for my
part, I never did hanker after it. When the
cocoa-nut trees which have been planted round
about the club and dockyard, &c., grow up,
they will add much to the appearance of this
much-abused place.

As regards sport in Jamaica, I have but little
to say. Virginian quail are distributed all over
the island, but are difficult to get at, as they
fly into the dense bush at the first alarm.
Wild guinea-fowl are also tolerably numerous.
It is a curious fact that the wild birds have
black legs and the tame ones yellow, showing
that they are quite a different variety : I do
not fancy they breed one with the other.
Snipe and teal are to be found in the marshy
lands, but my experience of shooting in Jamaica
is, that the "game is not worth the candle."
One cannot go into the bush without getting

or, if the
ik, capable
jiswer the
ky wooden
water to
Brackish
t, for my
When the
atecl round
, grow up,
Qce of this

e but little

ed all over

it, as they

rst alarm.

numerous.

birds have

V, showing

iety : I do

the other.

:hc marshy

in Jamaica

ic candle."

ut getting

FISHING.

283

covered with ticks. These insects swarm in
tlie grass, and cling to the person by hundreds.
They are said to have been brought from Cuba
with the cattle. It may be so ; all I know is,
I have shot in Cuba and never saw a tick.
There are some very fine rivers in the island,
useless for navigation, but full of fish, some of
immense size and of good flavour. These rivers
run down very rapidly in the dry season, and
rise very fast in the wet, at times carrying all
before them and rendering them most dangerous.
In some of the large rivers, such as the Cobre,
the Rio Grande, Spanish River, Swift River, &c.,
there are fish of 20 lb. weight, and good
sport may be had with spinning-tackle. They
will occasionally take a fl}^ and I have hooked,
but seldom landed them, owing to their sharp
teeth cutting; throuixh the Q;ut. It is good
sport nevertheless, and very pleasant wading in
the pools, surrounded by beautiful scenery and
shaded by magnificent foliage ; and the water
is never too cold. Calipever, hog-nosed mul-
let, drummers, and snook, are to be found in
these rivers, and mountain-mullet in the smaller
streams, also eels, shrimps, and cray-fish. I

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284

CRABS.

believe that trout would live in some of the
cold clear mountain-streams with gravelly bot-
toms, unless the cray-fish and shrimps de-
stroyed the spawn ; at all events, it would be
worth the experiment. Black crabs are numer-
ous over the island, and are justly esteemed a
great delicacy. They are altogether a different
species from the loathsome brute infesting the
palisades. The black crab is a vegetable-eat-
ing and very cleanly creature, living in the
mountains, n 'id only coming down to the sea to
spawn. At such times they travel in immense
bands, in a direct line, turning aside for no ob-
stacle— not even, it is maintained, for a house !
It is contended by epicures that there are four
delicacies in Jamaica — viz. , the black crab,

mountain-mullet, ring-tailed pigeon, and

I forget the other, but I can answer for the
three above mentioned.

The great amusement in Jamaica, and especi-
ally for sailors, is riding. At all the northern
ports, such as Port Antonio, Oclio Eios, Lucea,
or Montego Bay, riding-parties were organised ;
and oftentimes the skipper, followed by a troop

HORSE-RIDIXG.

285

ne of the
Lvelly bot-
rimps de-
would be
ire numcr-
3steemed a
a different
■esting the
etable-eat-
rio- in the
• the sea to
Li immense
for no ob-
Dr a house 1
?re arc four
)hick crab,

and

'cr for the

and especi-
e northern
lios, Lucea,

organised ;

by a troop

of midshipmen, might be seen galloping through
the streets in a cloud of dust, their headlong
flight being marked by the cheers of the blue-
jackets, barking of dogs, shrieks of women and
children, and the squealing of pigs. The liorses
are small but wiry ; and a good gallop into the
country, followed by a bathe in the river, a
plentiful supply of fresh cocoa-nuts, cigars, and
possibly some stronger refreshment, is not to
be despised in that country. Our blue-jackets
were also very partial to " horse-riding," and
seme amusing scenes occasionally occurred. On
one occasion at Port Antonio, the first lieu-
tenant and I heard a l)lue-jacket order a horse,
and said he to the dusky owner, " I want a
very long horse." So being requested to select
his own steed, he forthwith chose one that
seemed longer in the back than the others, and
led him away. No sooner was he round the
corner than two of his mates, as well as himself,
jumped on the unlucky steed, and rode off with
much satisfaction.

I had to adjudicate at this place in the case
of a collision. A black horse-dealer called to see
me, and said his horse had been killed by one

i!: fr:.1

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in

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MM

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28G

CASE OF COLLISION.

of my blue-jackets, and presented his bill for
£14. I brought a counter-claim for like amount
for damage to the blue-jacket, personal anxiety,
&c., &c., and dismissed the man, much to his
amazement and disgust ; but, having turned
the tables upon him, I again investigated the
matter on the quarter-deck, when the following
evidence was forthcoming : —

The negro said that his horse had been hired
by the blue-jacket, and that he had collided v/itli
a cart driven by a native. The shaft of the cart
had pierced the horse's chest, killing it on the
spot.

The facts were not disputed, so it became a
question as to who was on the right side of the
road. The negro driver swore he was, and the
sailor swore he was. The principal witness was
a boatswain's mate, who gave his evidence with
great clearness as follows : —

" Well, sir, all I knows is that 'Umphrcys "
(the man's name was Humphreys) *' was close
hauled on the starboard tack, when this 'ere
nigger came a-bearing down on him dead afore
the wind. 'Umphrcys seeing him a-coming, puts
his 'elm down to clear him, but the nigger came

9^

HORSE-BREEDING.

287

right athwart his bows and sunk him. By the
rule of the road at sea, sir, 'Umphreys was in
the right, and the nigger wrong."

There was a good deal of hard swearing on
both sides, and as it was difficult to apply the
rule of the road at sea to a landsman, and
there was no doubt the man had lost his horse,
we gave him £5, and he went away perfectly
liappy, the value of the animal probably being
about £1.

Some very valuable thoroughbred race-horses
are bred in the island, a gentleman living
uear Ocho Rios having a breedino; establish-
nient, and importing first-class sires from Eng-
land to cross with native horses. The Kingston
races are well attended, and some very good
racing goes on ; but the negro jockeys, with a
fork tied on to their naked heel, look more like
monkeys than human beings.

I

Towards the end of January 1880 we were
ordered away from Port Royal on a round of
visits, including Belize, in British Honduras, and
Cuba. On this occasion we embarked General
Gamble, the Commander-in-Chief of the mili-

tl'

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if

288

"not a salmon-rod."

tary stations in the West Indies, Mrs Gamble,
and the General's staff.

In addition to this large party, Bishop Tozer,
the Bishop of Jamaica, and his chaplain, also
took a passage. The Bishop was an old friend
and shipmate of mine in years gone by, so
I was delighted to welcome him on board.
Amongst his personal effects I noticed a long
box, apparently containing a salmon-rod, wliicli
I was very glad to see, as I was not aware
till then that his lordship was a sportsman in
addition to his other accomplishments. When
we had shaken down in the cabin, I said to the
Bishop, " I am so glad you have brought your
rod, because I expect we shall get some sport
in the Belize river."

" That's not my salmon-rod, my dear Captain,"
said he ; " that's my pastoral staff! "

However, having stowed away the General
and the Bishop, with their respective staffs, we
made sail to a fine breeze, and reached Belize in
four days. The approach to the town is very
intricate, and a pilot is necessary, the shoals ex-
tending for many miles from the mainland, and
a whole day's steaming is occupied before reach-

pa"! ru,^.^

BELIZE.

289

:y'

ing the anchorage. Even then, so shallow is the
harbour that a ship drawing fifteen feet water
has to anchor some two or three miles from the
town.

The town of Belize is built upon a narrow
strip of laud facing the sea, and occupies both
sides of the river of the same name. Immedi-
ately at the back of the town is a vast dismal
swamp, the home of alligators, snakes, mos-
quitoes, and sand-Hies.

At the time this site for the town was
chosen, it was doubtless the best that could
be got, for the craft of those days could go
into the river to load and discharge their car-
goes ; but at the present day, ships have to lie
a long way outside, owing to the shoalness of
the water.

Notwithstanding these disadvantages, Belize
is a very important and thriving place. A line
of steamers places it in direct communication
with New Orleans, from whence it is but four
clays' steaming.

The fruit trade has made rapid strides of
late years, under the able administration of
tlie popular Governor, Mr Barlee (now, alas ! no

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290

TIMBER TIIADK.

I ■

1 1 '

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jl

more). The timber trade is also looking up
well : ill fact, the supply of mahogany and log-
wood would seem to l)e inexhaustible. But
most of the timber in the immediate neiiiilibour-
hood having been cut down, the mahogany-cut-
ters have to go a long distance into the forest in
search of more. The difficulty of transporting
these heavy log*^? to the water-portage is very
great, and the expense increased in proportion ;
still, as long as the price of mahogany keeps up,
it must always be a profitable business.

The Governor's house is a most comfortable
one. It used to be surrounded by a swampy
jungle ; but Mr Barlee had this drained and
planted, and transformed it into a beautiful
garden, rich in tropical fruits and flowers, with
an avenue of cocoa-nut trees facing the sea.
Many rare kinds of orchids were to be seen in
this garden, some of the old trees being loaded
with them.

Talking of orchids, his Excellency the Gover-
nor kindly gave me permission to select any
for transmission to friends at home. So with
the assistance of the gardener I filled several
boxes, containing twenty-five specimens in each,

DANdKK FROM DUTCH BILBS.

291

aiul sent them to Eiigluiul, where they duly
arrived, uiid were much appreeiated.

Personallv, I know notldni:: o{ orchids — re-
•yarding them merely as parasitical plants of
more or less beauty and value ; hut knowing
how much they are valued in England, 1 sent
these on the chance. But my experience goes
to show that it is not always wise to send these
sort of things without knowing anything about
them.

Many vears ago I sent a box of Dutch bulbs
from the Ca[)e to a friend who owned a tine
])lace in the ]\ridlands. Long afterwards I hap-
l)ened to be in that locality, so I strolled over
to my friend's house. He was not at home.
The gardener was in the conservatory, and this
reminded me of the bulbs. After a short (;on-
versation, I inquired if he had ever received any

Imlbs. " Yes," said the monster ; " and d

the fellow that sent 'em ! they was full of red-

sjjiders and all sorts of " I waited to hear

no more ; but merely remarking, " Ah }'es ;
some idiot, I suppose," &c., cleared out, with a
mental reservation not to send any more Dutch
bulbs to England.

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292

" FADDY."

During our stay the Govornor gavo a garden-
l»arty in honour of our (liHtinguiishecl guests. JMy
old Irish setter Paddy was, of coura(», of tlic
l»arty escorting his master. Now i»oor Paddy,
who was a setter in Newfoundland, came out
as a i>oiiiter in the West Indies — his coat heiu"-
taken off to save him from the lieat. He con-
sequently presented a rather ridiculous appear-
ance. One of the (iovernor's guests, who had
been dining rather too freely, was pleased to
take notice of Paddy.

" Handsome dog ! " said he to me ; " but he's
not thoroughbred."

" How do you know that ? " said I.

" He hasn't enough hair on his hind-lesfs or
l)clly J " said the critic.

"Well, sir, I expect if my coxwain had l)een
clipping you all the morning, as he has that
dog, you wouldn't look very thoroughbred
either ! " The gentleman retired.

Hearing there was a snipe-marsh at a place
called the " Boom," some sixteen miles up the
river, I nuide an expedition there, accompanied
by some of the officers. We had a pleasant trip
in the steam-cutter, seeing a few alligators and

i^-*

THE "BOOM."

29 3

water -tortoises on tlic way, unci reaclie<l the
Room alxnit mid-day, <»nly to find the swaiuj)
|terfeetly dry. However, as we had come so
far, we determined to stay tlie nitrht, and try
some marshes in tlie neigld)ourhoo(l. We were
directed to a house where we could get accommo-
dation, and wlu're we passed tlic night ; but the
old woman wlio was to have been our hostess
had di<'d the day l)efore, and her corpse was only
just removed wlicn we arrived. Thei*e were
not enough beds for all the ])arty ; so Cochrane
gallantly volunteered to sli^ei) in the old w^oman's
bed, and a lively time he had of it between fleas
and mosquitoes. We none of us had any peace
tiiat night, and were glad when nnn-ning l)roke.
A bathe in the river much refreshed us, and
we started to exi)lore tlie marshes ; but without
nuich success, as the ducks were very wild.
Whilst bathing in the river in the evening,
the General and party passed down the river
on their way back to Belize ; so taking a header
oft' the bank, I dived across the river and came
up alongside their canoe, to wish them adieu,
and that was the last I saw of them.
The water-tortoise, called by the natives

*

294

SHARKS.

hecatec, is ji most ciuious beast. Our guide
brought one for our dinner, and most exeelleiit
it was ; but before kilbng it, he showed us the
wonderful instinct of the creature, whicli turned
towards the water wherever it was put down,
althoutrh the water was not in sight, and was a
h^ng distance away.

There are a few caymans in tlie rivn-, l)ut
I never heard of their mok\sting any one ; in
the harbour sharks are swarmins*;. It wouhl l)e
dangerous even to put one's hand over the side
of a boat ; and as for bathing, it wouhl be mad-
ness. AVhilst we were at anchor, an Enghsli
steamer anchored close by us, and one of the
firemen })lunged overl)oard for a bath. It Wiis
the last the i)Oor fellow ever had. He never
came up again, but the crimson-coloured water
told the story of his sad fate.

These sharks afl'ordcil us much amusement.
We enclosed a 1-lb. tin of compressed gun-cotton
in a piece of pork, and lowered it over the side.
The torpedo was connected to a battery on the
poop, and vrlien the shark turned over to grasp
the tempting morsel, the circuit was com2)leted,
and oft' went his head. Notwithstanding wluit

DEPARTURE FROM BELIZE.

295

may be said to the contraiy, Belize is a healthy
place ; and although undoubtedly hot, the heat
is tempered by the strong sea-breeze during the
day.

The presence of a man-of-war is always a
welcome sight to the hospitable residents. Un-
fortunately it is a rare one.

We spent a very pleasant fortnight there,
making many friends, and enjoying the kind
hospitality of the Governor and Mrs Barlee, and
the mercantile community. AVe visited Belize
again in 1882; but I shall reserve any further
remarks, and bidding adieu to British Honduras,
shape a course for Cuba.

During three successive seasons in the West
Indies it was our good fortune to be sent to
visit Cuban ports regularly every year. We
were therefore able to pick up a little informa-
tion regardino; this fine island. A condensed
account I herewith append.

At the time of our first visit. In 1880, the
insurrection, which had already devastated the
island for eleven years, was almost stami)ed out,
and was confined to the eastern })ortion. It
hud not the sympathy of the better class of

' «

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206

CUBA.

Cubans, but was supported principally by dis-
(^ontented blacks, and also by the numerous
adventurers bred by the war, who regarded it
as a means of enriching themselves by plunder,
only surrendering themselves to the authorities
on being offered a sufficient bribe.

It was none the less disastrous to the island.
Bands of robbers infested the interior, burning
sugar estates, mutilating cattle, and levying
black-mail on whomsoever they came across.
The slaves, of whom there are some 200,000 in
the island, as a rule behaved well, merely in
some cases offering a passive resistance to work.

From what I could gather, I believe these
slaves to be very badly treated. An eyewitness
assured me he had seen the negroes workins; in
the fields with bleeding backs, with men stand-
ing over them whip in hand, and the overseer
riding round armed with revolver and sword.
As flogging is not supposed to be practised, the
usual manner of punishment is the bastinado,
which is applied to the victim in the stocks.
He is then kept there till his feet are well, so
that there are no marks to show. The law
abolishing slavery was promulgated in Madrid

SLAVERY

297

on the 16th February 1880 ; but it is not likely
that anything will be done in the matter, be-
yond the fact that the children born of slaves
subsequent to that date will be free. The slave-
owners com})lain that the law, if carried into
effect, will ruin them ; and the slaves believe that
it is only a pretext, and that the institution will
l)e continued under another name.

The financial condition of the island is des-
perate. The Custom-houses are, and have been
for some time, mortgaged to a very large amount.
The estimated deficit for the financial year
ending 30tli June 1880, was calculated at
20,000,000 dollars— probably much below the
mark. No taxes are collected, althouoh the
treasury is empty, as the people cannot or will
not pay, and the authorities dare not make
them.

The island is already drained to the utmost
by wholesale corruption or gross mismanage-
ment, and will probably gradually drift into
bankruptcy. There are about 40,000 troops kept
in the country, who are supposed to be paid
out of the revenues of the island, and the naval
force is supported in like manner ; but when it

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298

HAVANA.

is no longer possible to pay them, they will
have to be witlulravvn, and the country left to
take care of itself.

The city of Havana is a reflex of the condi-
tion of the country — an empty treasury, mort-
gaged Custom-house, officials in arrears, and
troops unpaid. The town is infested with ad-
venturers of every nationality. The city, al-
though presenting an imposing appearance from
the sea, containing some fine palaces and an
opera-house, is badly drained and dirty. The
revenues of the country are largely supported
l)y numerous gambling-houses, &c., &c., which
institutions are consequently encouraged by
the authorities. Of specie there is none, — ;i
dirty pa[)er currency, half the value of gold,
being substituted. Murders and robberies are
of frequent occurrence ; and no redress can
be obtained, as the police are generally imi)li-
cated. The convicts are allowed out of jail to
pursue their calling during the night, with the
understanding that they return before daylight
to share their ill-gotten gains with their jailers.'

1 Shortly before one of our visits to Havana, our Coiisul-
Genenil had been brutally assaulted and very nearly nmrdcretl

IPII

s;-iT-,ii

, they will
ntry left to

f the condi-
sury, mort-
trrears, aud
ed with ad-
?he city, al-
■arance from
ices and an
dirty. The
y supported
, &c., whieh
ouraged by
is none, — a
ue of gold,
obberies are
redress can
orally impli-
ut of jail to
ht, with the
ore daylight
dieir jailers.'

iia, our Consul-
nearlv munlereil

HAVANA.

299

The harbour of Havana is a very fine one,
but owing to the absence of tide, the water is
foul and evil-smellino;. Thanks to a ma";niti-
cent climate, the place is not unhealthy in the
winter time ; but in May, when the rains set
in, yellow fever makes its appearance with great
regularity.

The tobacco crop was a failure for two years
jH-evious to 1880. This was caused by the in-
ordinate use of Peruvian guano, which has been
found to be destructive to the plant.

Notwithstanding ci^rtain objections which 1
have touched upon, Havana is a delightful place
for a short visit. The opera-house is one of
the finest in the world ; a military band plays
almost every evening in the Plaza. The climate
in winter is perfect, and the Spanish officials are
most courteous and oblitiinjx. A visit to the

by some ruffians. Our visit was opportune, tlie Spanish au-
thorities believiu",' it to be in conse(|Ueuce of tliis oiitraj^e.

On this occasion the Government oliicials lieluived with
<,'reat promptitude ; several notorious vagabonds liad been
arrested, and altliough the real culprits were not forthcoming,
tiie (Captain-General offered to hang the lot, pour encourai/er les
autres, if the Cousul-General would only say tlie word. The
Consul recovered in a marvellous manner, and when I lust saw
him, was in his usual health.

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300

MATAN2AS.

different tobacco-factories is interesting to those
who have never seen tlie process before (tliey
will probably not care to go a second time).
The harbour always presents a gay and bus}'
scene, several steamers arriving and leaving
every day, besides sailing-ships from all parts
of the globe. A fresh sea-breeze blows all
through the day, and the land - breeze at
night ; but the latter wafts off a most odorif-
erous bouquet, which one would gladly dispenso
with.

About forty miles eastward of Havana is the
fine city of Matanzas, the third in importance
in the island. This place is the cleanest, neatest
town in Cuba, as far as my experience goes.
None of the objectionable sights which disgrace
Havana are to be seen. There are two mag-
nificent clubs and many fine buildings in the
town ; and at the time of our visit, an exhibition
w^as about to be opened.

A few miles from the city are some wonderful
caves, which are well worth seeing. They were
only discovered quite accidentally some twenty-
five years ago, by a negro who was working on
the estate : his crowbar suddenly slipped from

rwwmi

CAVES.

301

his grasp, and disappeared into the earth. The
poor fellow, hearing mysterious sounds as the
bar descended into the bowels of the earth, ran
home, thinking the devil was after him, and
told his master. But the fortunate proprietor on
whose land they were discovered, has already
made a small fortune by exhibiting these caves,
which extend for some miles underground. The
stalactites are very beautiful ; some of them
l)eing of a lovely pink colour, and quite trans-
parent— others blue. At one place one comes
to a natural grotto, surrounded on all sides with
fantastically shaped arches and pillars, and,
apparently, a magnificent organ in the corner,
all composed of most delicately tinted crystal.
About three miles have been opened to the
public, and it is probable that much more re-
mains to be discovered.

There is some capital guinea-fowl shooting in
the neighbourhood of Matanzas. We made up
a party for the purpose, and ascended one of
the fine rivers flowing into the bay. Having
killed some sjuinea-fowl and had some refresh-
ment, we wanted to resume the chasse ; but our
guide wouldn't have it. Ilis remarks in

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302

NUEVITAS DEL nUNOIPE.

Spanish to Ji friend, which we ha])pene(l to
overhear, were most amusing. " These Eng-
lish," he said, ** are perfect fanatics. They shoot
all day in the heat of the sun. I tell them
they will have sunstroke. They say, ' We don't
care f(3r sunstroke.' They bathe in the river.
I tell them they will get the vomito [yellow
fever]. They say they don't care for the
vomito! I tell them there are caymans [alli-
gators] in the river. They say they don't care

a for the caymans or for me either ! Cav-

(Diiba! they are mad."

NUEVITAS DEL PIUNCIPE

is the seai)ort of the town of Principe, from
which it is distant eiohteen leagues. This
place was destroyed by the insurgents some
years ago, and, like Principe, has suffered
much from the war, which has entailed much
misery upon the inhabitants. The commercial
})rospects of Nuevitas are improving, and now
that the country is quiet, a considerable revival
of trade has taken place.

The principal exports are w^oods of various

T^

THE MANATEE.

303

kinds, sugar, honey, bees'-wax, and tortoise-
shell. The town is situated at the head of a
large salt-water lagoon ; this again is connected
with the sea by a long winding channel. A
pilot is necessary for this channel, on account
of the sandbanks on both sides. There is a
deep-water passage between. A good anchor-
age will be found off the town in 15 feet.
In taking a pilot at this or any other Cuban
port, one must be particular to give the ton-
nage of the ship according to the stoivmje
capacity and not burden, otherwise much con-
fusion will arise, owing to the pilots being paid
1)y tonnage and not draught of water, as they
usually are.

!. 1^,

There is a curious animal found in this
neighbourhood, called the manatee or sea-cow,
a kind of herbivorous cetacea. This creature
lives in the shallow creeks to be found on the
north coast of Cuba, and attains a large size,
weio-hino; as much as three or four tons. It is
said to be gentle and inoffensive, and the flesh
is pronounced to be very similar to pork. It is
killed for the sake of its tusks and meat.

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304

NIPE.

NIPE (north-east coast).

This is by fur the finest harbour in Cuba,
easy of access, no dangers, and spacious within.
There is no town, or even vilhige, and the phice
is only inhabited by a few scattered fishermen,
who seem very pcjor, but are doubtless happy
and contented in that fine climate. The river
jVIajard discharges itself into the bay, and is
navigable for boats for fifteen miles from its
mouth, at which place the town of Majare
is situated. Good shooting is to be had up
the river, and in the neighbouring lagoons ;
and we returned from a very pleasant expedi-
tion to the town, with a varied bag of guinea-
fowl, flamingoes, ibis, and herons. Our guide
or pilot was greatly edified by our shooting
birds on the wing, exclaiming, as we knocked
over herons, cranes, and other loosely feathered
birds, " Pluma no mas ! " — Feathers no more !
The town of Majare contains about 2000 in-
habitants : the country is well cultivated, some
excellent tobacco being grown in the district.

A French company have purchased land in

SPANISH PACERS.

305

the iieit^hbourhood of Nipd, with the iutentioii
of clearing away the timber and planting sugar
and tol)aeco on an extensive scale.

Deer are very plentiful on the western side of
the bay.

ri i

' i' Mt^mtl

The distance from Majaru to Santiago-de-
Ouba, the principal city on the south coast of
Cuba, is about ninety miles over the mountains,
which rise to a height of 7000 feet. A Spanish
orentleman told me he often rode this distance
in one day on the same horse, a pacer. By
starting early and resting during the heat of
the day, he and his horse managed the journey
without fatigue.

The Spanish pacer moves his two legs on
the same side simultaneously : the pace is easy
both to man and beast, and the averasre rate
about six miles an hour.

Guantanemo, on the south coast, is also a spa-
cious anchorage, and a fine sporting locality.
The town is far removed from the anchorage,
and only small ships can anchor off it. The
country is regularly hunted by a club, under
the management of Mr Mason, our Vice-Consul,

u

'♦':

1

j-
1' t

■ 1 <

1 '
1,

306

INAOUA.

who most kindly got up a cfuissc for ii.s, result-
ing in several small deer, about the size of
Scotch roe-deer, being killed ; and winding u]»
with a nost sumptuous breakfast. C)u:' hurried
visit prevented us from enjoying more than one
day's sport, but we were promised plenty hud
we remained.

The climate of Cuba is delin;htful during the
winter months, the heat of the day being
always tempered by the fresh sea-l)reeze. The
coast is well lighted, and so well surveyed, that
navigating these waters is a perfect yachting
trip. The south coast is, like all the islands of
the GIreater Antilles, mucli hotter thnn the
north, the trade-wind being cut off by the lofty
mountains of the interior, some of them being
over 8000 feet high.

IXAGUA — BAHAMAS.

This island, although not belonging to tlie
Antilles, being in fact a dependency of Jamaica,
may be mentioned here, as it is in close proximity
to the north-east point of Cuba. Inagua is a
low, flat, sandy island about thirty miles long,

1*

THK 8ALINA.

307

^11 111

(covered with low bush ; popuhitioii about 2000,
most of whom live at the settlement called
" Matthew Town," on the south-west side. A
large lagoon called the Salina lies directly at
the back of the town, and from this many
iiundreds of tons of salt have been annually
exported. In this Salina were some wind-
mill pumps of American manufacture, of a very
clever design. They were so arranged that not
onl}- did they face the wind, but also accommo-
dated themselves to its force. By an ingenious
contrivance of weights and pulleys acting at the
l>ack of the windmill, the apparatus gradually
closed itself like an uml)rella as the wind in-
creased ; and not only that, but each arm or
spoke, and there were a great many, also slanted
itself side wise to the prevailing wind. In this
way the windmill acted automatically. In a
gale of wind it would almost be closed, but
would still revolve. As the wind slacked oft'
and the pressure was relieved, the wings would
gradually unfold themselves l)y the weights at
the back descending ; as the wind again in-
creased, it would lift the weights, — and so on.
I daresay these automatic pumps may be seeii

. t

i !' ' I'

*

i .J
■ 4

< 'li

;*.■■

i

308

INAGUA.

in many places, but I never saw them be-
fore. They seem to do their work well. Tlie
salt trade having declined of late years, the
works have been to a great extent abandoned,
and attention is now being devoted to the plant-
ing of cocoa-nuts, which promises to be a very
lucrative industry. Land suitable for the pur-
pose can be procured at five shillings an acre.
The soil seems to be well adapted for the growth
of cocoa-nuts, and a ready market is found in
the United States, from which Inagua is only
four or five days' steaming. The Atlas Com-
pany's vessels touch, to and from New York,
unce a-fortnigut. It must be borne in mind
that in cocoa-nut planting no return can l)e
expected for at least six years, after which, with
proper care, the trees ought to bear, and average
100 nuts per tree. Allowing 50 trees to the
acre, or 5000 to 100 acres, it will readily he
perceived that, considering all expenses for
purchasing land, plants, labour of planting,
fencing, clearing land, and shipping, and reck-
oning the nuts to be worth £3 per 1000 (the
market value in tiie States), a good margin
is allowed for profit. Against this must

WATERFOWL.

809

1)0 considered the risk of hurricanes, disease
amongst tlie trees, the objection to resid-
ing in a pLice like Inagua, the difficulty of
finding a responsible agent who understands the
l)usiness, and the possibility of the demand for
cocoa-nuts failino;. For these reasons I would
scarcely advise any one desirous of emigrating
to select Inagua. In the interior of the island
is an extensive savannah, where herds of wild
cattle, wild horses, pigs, and donkeys roam un-
molested. The price of a horse is four dollars,
l)ut you must first catch him ; of cattle, the
same; donkeys, four shillings; pigs, ml.

In the winter thousands of ducks and water-
fowl of every description congregate in the
lagoons and marshes, and afford excellent sport;
and in one larw lagoon the flaminQ;oes are so
numerous that they extend for miles, lining the
hanks on either side with a roseate frinoje.
These beautiful birds breed on the island, build-
ino; their nests on tussocks of grass about
two feet from the ground, across which they
stride, with their long logs hanging down on
cacii side. Their eggs are collected by hundreds,
and are excellent to eat ; and their wings are

I

o"

*f

310

THE SPANISH MAIN.

iiLso taken for ornament. The bird itself is
rather strong and oily, the young ones only

being fit for food.

CARTHAGENA — THE SPANISH MAIN.

After a short spell at Port Eoyal, we were
ordered off on a cruise to Carthagena, under
sail ; and after a rattling passage, arrived there
in three days from Jamaica. This place is the
(•ai)ital of the province of that name, and belongs
to New" Granada. It possesses the finest liar-
l)our on the coast. The town bears traces of
ancient grandeur, but is now almost in ruins.
The fortifications are of immense thickness and
strength, but would be useless against ordnance
of the present day. Admiral Vernon, however,
found them too much for him, although he
made so sure of taking the place that he had a
medal struck to commemorate the victory which
he never gained. A good deal of the fine har-
l)our is blocked with shoals, so that it is not
really so large as it appears. These shoals are
supposed to be buoyed ; but the buoys are not
to be depended on, as the rascally pilots pur-

CARTHAGENA.

311

posely shift them, or remove them altogether,
80 as to oblige ships to engage their services.
We did not do so, but preferred to trust to our
own judgment and eyesight ; but it is rather
risky work, and one might come to grief in this
way.

On going ashore to return the Consul's visit,
I was astonished by a deafening uproar in the
street, apparently two black women fighting
and abusing each other, the language being
richly interlarded with Spanish oaths. Amongst
these cries could be phi inly distinguished the
screaming of a babe and the soothing tones of
a nurse ; then again would burst out volleys
of abuse, pitched in the highest key. The
whole of the above was caused bv two sreen
parrots. I bought the pair, and they afforded
us much amusement on board for many a day
afterwards, — climbing up the rigging, screaming,
crying, laughing, and abusing each other, from
daylight till dark. I took them to Newfound-
land, when we went north ; Init the cold was
too muc)^ for them, and one died the first winter,
the oiih ^r some time afterw\ards. I subsequently
bought two others, who are alive and well at this

fit'-'N'

;' !

*■■:!'
I,

312

SPORT AT CARTHAGENA.

m

moment ; but they have forgotten a good deal
of Spanish, and bad hmguage.

Carthagena is a fine ba}^ for boat-sailing, and
also for seining. We sent a seining-party away
every night ; and great fun it was carousing
amongst the cocoa-nut plantations that fringed
the sandy beaches, or smoking and singing be-
side enormous bonfires. Every haul of the net
brought quantities of fish, from sharks to sar-
dmes. There is some shooting in the neigh-
bouring marshes ; but the heat is terrific, and I
should fancy it would not be altogether healthy
work. Every species of insect is represented,
and I killed a centipede exactly one foot long,
and an inch broad. The temperature w^as be-
tween 80° and 90° all through the day, and this
in the winter time. In the summer I should
imagine that Carthao;ena would not be a desir-
able residence. Its chief merit, in my opinion,
is its proximity to the Panama Canal, of which
Carthagena may be said to be the key.

I regret that my orders prevented me from
again visiting the Isthmus of Panama to sec
how the canal progressed. The only informa-
tion I could gather on the subject was from one

;ood deal

ling, and
rty away
•arousing
t fringed
iging be-
f tlie net
s to sar-
le neigh-
fic, and I
r liealtliy
•resented,
loot lono-,
was be-
and this
1 should
a de sir-
opinion,
of which

V.

nie from
a to see
informa-
Tom one

ONE OF THE " SIX HUNDRED."

313

of the employees, who got occasionally mixed
in his remarks. This official had been in the
English army, according to his ow*n account,
and was one of the survivors of the six hun-
dred ! On the occasion of a ban(piet at
Jamai(;a, he is reported to have thus deliv^ered
himself, in concluding a brilliant account of the
celebrated charge : —

" And, gentlemen, never shall I forget the
enthusiasm which prevailed when the order was
given : England expects every man will do his
duty " ! ! !

It is said that so overcome was he with the
remembrance of the glorious event, that he
then and there sank under the table and re-
mained there till morning.

After ten days pleasantly spent at Cartha-
gena, we prepared for our departure ; and hav-
ing blown uj) the wreck of a schooner which
oljstructed the navigation at the entrance to the
inner harbour, we sailed on our return to
Jamaica.

Head - winds, calms, and contrary currents
detained us somewhat on the return trip — the
general tendency of the winds, currents, and

^,->i;

i

I t'x.

314

PANAMA CANAL.

surface-drift of the Caribbean Sea being towards
the land, more especially in the direction of
Colon, in the Isthmus of Panama ; so tliat it
took us fourteen days under sail to do what we
had previously done in three. This opens the
question as to what effect the Panama Cauai
will have upon the tides and currents in the
Caribbean Sea. One woukl naturally suppose
that the water in the canal would How continu-
ously from east to west, or from the Atlantic
to the Pacific Ocean, on account of the constant
set of the current and the prevailing winds
l)eing from that direction. The difterence in
the height of the tide at Colon and Panama
is very remarkable. At the former place the
rise and fall of tide is only two or three feet ;
whereas at Panama the difference between high
and low water mark is, as ftir as I can remem-
ber, nearer twenty. The tide is nine hours
later at Colon thcin it is at Panama, so that
when it is high or low water at Panama, it is
half- tide at Colon.

As a matter of fact, I am inclined to think
that in the event of what is called a tide-level
canal being cut through the isthmus — that is,

PROBABLE INFLUENCE ON CURRENTS. 315

y towards
ection of
;o that it
) what we
Dpens the
.ma Cauai
its in the

Y suppose

V coiitiiiii-
3 Athintie
e constant
ino; winds
ference in
d Panama

phxce the
three feet ;
ween high
m remem-
line hours

a, so that
Liania, it is

1 to think
tide-level
3 — that is,

I

a canal without locks, open to the ocean at
either end — there would be no continuous
stream of water flowino; through the canal in
any one direction, but the result would prob-
ably be that the tides would flow in from either
end, meet in the middle, and flow back again,
as may Ije seen in the Straits of Magellan,
which, after all, is but a huge canal of Nature's
own construction.

It is quite possible that the rush of water
may be so great as to seriously interfere with
the passage of ships entering the canal, in
which case it will be necessary to form a lock
at the Panama end ; and it may even be neces-
sary, in view of the diflerence in the depth of
the harbours at either end, to slope the Ijottom
of the canjd from Colon downwards to Panama.
This, ac(;ording to Max Adler's laughable story ,^
would have the effect of causing the water to
How downhill, thereby draining the Atlantic
Ocean into the Pacific !

But, joking apart, the tendency of the water
must be to find its own level, and if it can be
shown that the mean level of the two oceans is

1 Elbow-Room. By Max Adlor.

»

t i

m

316

PANAMA CANAL.

not identical, there must be a constant flow in
the direction of the lowest level.

Now it is not at all certain that the mean
level of the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans {.s* the
same ; and it is quite possil)le that, owing to
the rotation of the earth on its axis, and the
formation of the land in the neijjhbourhood of
the isthmus, the water may be piled up on tli<>
Atlantic side and drawn away on the Pacific
side. A glance at the map will show what
I mean. And we all know^ how a strong
bi'eeze will keep a river back, or, if in the
same direction as the flow of the river, will
drive it out of a loch and thus rise the river :
so this theory may not be so very absurd
after all. I leave it to those learned in such
matters.

There is another view of this case which
never struck me till now. Geologists are of
opinion that at one time the Isthmus of Panama
was submerged, and South America an island
They are led to this conclusion by the totally
diff'erent class of animals to be found on South
and North America. At that time the Gulf-
Stream, which now warms our shores, must have

PROBABLE EFFECTS ON THE GULF-STREAM. 317

flowed westward through this channel, and the
British Isles were a frozen zone unsuited for
human habitation. Cut through the isthmus,
iuid the warm waters of the Gulf-Stream may to
ci very limited extent he deflected in the direc-
tion of their former course. The effect would
1)0 probably no more than drawing off a kettle of
water from the river Tweed, and the immediate
effect upon our climate be imperceptible ; but it
might to a very trifling extent have some influ-
ence— about as much, perhaps, as the endeavour
to shampoo an elephant with n single egg !
But if I attempt to follow up this sul)ject, I
shall get as much mixed as the gentleman be-
fore mentioned who led the charge of the
gallant six hundred, so I shall not pursue it
further. I was led to this diversion from my
recollection of the canal scheme twelve years
ago, when I was ordered to report upon its
feasibility. At that time there were no fewer
than five schemes for connecting the Pacific with
the Atlantic Ocean. I sorted these schemes,
and came to the conclusion that the only one
Ukely to be attended with any success was a
direct tide - level canal across the Isthmus of

•III I

W

Si's- i

;U8

CLERICAL COUNSEL.

Panama. I shall l)e (li8api)ointe(l if this opinion
])e found not to be correct.

Talking of those days reminds mo of a story.
At that time the Reindeer, which I com-
manded, was stationed in the Pacific. We
had no parson on board, ho a clerical friend
of mine volunteered to conduct the service
on board one Sunday. Having a purely nauticiil
congregation, the reverend gentleman thought
it a fine opi)ortunity to give us a nautical dis-
course, and he brought his sermon to a conclu-
sion with the following elocpient advice : —

*' Now, my men, be guided by me : let not
your anchor go on the soft, sli[)pery, and
.'^^reacherous mud, but on the firm and solid
rock, with the land close aboard under your
lee."

Needless to say, this advice was gratefully
appreciated by an attentive audience — the poor
fellows being always taught to believe that
exactly the reverse of this maxim was the
object to be desired.

During the passage from Carthagena to
Jamaica the following incident occurred : —
" April — ,1880. Lat. — , long. — . Ship under

!i

CAPTAIN OVEKBOAKD.

319

lus opinion

of a story,
h I coin-
cific. Wo
:-ical frit^Kl
the service
ely nautical jj^
an tlioiiglit
lautical dis-

0 a conclu-
ncQ : —

ine : let not
ippeiy, and

1 and solid
luider your

as gratefully
ce — the poor
hclieve that
im was the

irthagena to

occurred :—

Ship under

sail, weather fine and warm. Captain fell over-
Itoard. Hove to — lowered a hoat — picked cap-
tain up — filled and })roceeded."

It was currently reported that the skii)})er
liad jumped overboard to exercise the crew and
to test the merits of a j)atent lowei-ing a[)para-
tus, which, hy the by, answered admirably ; and
there seems to have been some colour for this
supposition, seeing that the weather was fine
and the water warm. Moreover, no sooner was
it known that the captain was overboard than
the second lieutenant, followed by two dogs,
were also discovered in the water, having gal-
lantly, it is supposed, come to his assistance.
Be that as it may, a big shark was observed
swimming about, and was speedily caught and
hauled on board. This shark belonged to a
species known as the ovoviviparous ; and being
cut open, as sharks always are, to see what they
have had for dinner, ten little sharks, about the
size of an ordinary cod-fish, were discovered all
alive and kicking. The youngsters were thrown
overboard, when, sad to relate, another big
shark, doubtless the anxious papa, speedil}^
made a meal of them ! The poor orphans were

^

§■

^1'

^'ii

320

haIti.

thus transfoiTcd from the inside of one parent
to another. I fear they hardly appreciated the
change.

Soon after our return to Jamaica the time
came for us to wend our way northwards, and
it was not till the following Dc^cember that we
again found ourselves in West In . waters.

M

In the early part of January 1881 we were
ordered to Haiti to make the round of the
island, interview the consuls, and show tliu
British flag.

I took this opportunity of writing a report
upon the g(»neral features of this most interest-
ing island, embracing the agricultural, financial,
political, and social conditions c le country
and its inhabitants, l)ut this shall oe reserved
for another chapter.

HAITI AND SAN DOMINGO.

A couple of days' easy steaming against the
prevailing north-east trade brought us in sight
of the high mountains of Haiti — a description of
which island I shall now attempt. I feel sure

HAITI.

321

)X\v parent
sciatcd the

I, the time
vards, Jiiid
or that we
waters.

L we were

nd of the

show the

y a report
t interest-
fiiiaiieial,
e country

13 reserve<l

that the general reader will candidly admit that
he (or she) knows nothing whatever al)out Haiti.
I confess that, until my visit to the island, I
knew nothing about it, as to what constituted
Haiti and what San Domingo. 1 had heard
vaguely of the Black Republic of Haiti, but
that is all.

A glance at the map of the West Indies will
show the importance of this island, also the
boundary -line separating the two Republics
of Haiti and San Domingo from each other.
Roughly speaking, the whole island is about
the size of Ireland — of which one-third belongs
to Haiti, a Black Repul^lic speaking French ;
the remainder to San Domingo, the natives of
which are a mixture of white, brown, and black,
speaking Spanish.

Pi

:;^ainst the
3 in sight
ription of
feel sure

GENERAL REMARKS ON HAItI.

If the island of Cuba be the " Pearl," to Haiti
Ijelongs the proud title of the " Queen of the
Antilles." Second only to Cuba in size, this
magnificent island is second to none in the
l)eauty of its scenery and the fertility of its soil.

Il

l'

322

POPULATION.

The mountains, rising to the height of nearly
9000 feet, are clothed with dense tropical vege-
tation to their very summits. The valleys are
well watered, and are capable of extensive cul-
tivation, and of supporting a numerous popula-
tion. The whole island embraces about 30,000
square miles ; of this 20,000 belong to San
Domingo, and 10,000 to Haiti proper.

The total population is roughly estimated
at 700,000, of which 200,000 belong to Sau
Domingo and 500,000 to Haiti, which will thus
be seen to be by hv the more thickly populated
of the two countries. Nine-tenths of these
500,000 are pure blacks, the remainder being
mostly mulattoes, with a few whites. It is
estimated that two-thirds of the whole popu-
lation are females.

The geographical position of the island is
such, that it commands the two most important
routes to the West Indies, the Mona and the
Windward Passage.

AVhoever is in possession of the ports of
San Nicholas on the w^est coast and Samand
on the east, has, in my opinion, the keys to
these routes.

hm

CLIMATE.

323

The climate of Haiti is miicli dreaded and
abused, probably unjustly so — I believe it to
1 »e healthy enough ; but the towns, reeking
of filth and innocent of drains, are the hot-
beds of fever, small-pox, and other noxious
diseases. As well miQ;ht one abuse the climate
of Naples because they have the cholera there ;
forgetting that these scourges are sent to re-
mind us that the ordinary precautions relating
to health and cleanliness cannot be .xCglected
with impunity. For this reason Port au Prince,
the capital of Haiti, is very unhealthy, especi-
ally in the summer months, and ships frequently
contract yellow fever by anchoring too close to
the shore at this season. In winter time the
climate is perfect, and the ports healthy.

The soil, as I shall presently show, is capable
of producing every kind of fruit and vegetable,
besides the usual tropical productions, such
as sugar, tobacco, coffee, chocolate, &c. The
forests contain timber of the finest quality ; and
in the interior, gold, silver, copper, tin, lead,
and iron are known to exist ; but the mines are
unworked, the soil is uncultivated, and the
commercial prosperity of the island is paralysed

324

PORT AU PRINCE.

by the jenlousy of the Haitien Governmeut
and the fear of foreign intervention. Added to
which, the constant revolutions and the gross
corruption of the officials have ruined the coun-
try financially, and have almost annihilated
legitimate trade. I speak more especially of
Haiti proper, in contradistinction to that portion
of the island styled the Dominican Republic.

I propose to give a short account of each
place in the order tlu'.t we visited them, com-
mencing with the capital. Port au Prince.

Port au Priuce, the seat of government, is a
considerable town, containing some 20,000 in-
habitants, of whom nine -tenths are black, and
most of the balance mulattoes. There are very
few white British subjects, but several hundred
Jamaica negroes, claiming British protection.
Most of the mercantile houses are German, or
English houses managed by Germans.

Trade is dull, owing to the constant revolu-
tions which disturb the country. There are
said to be 8000 troops quartered in the town ;
but many of these exist only on paper, their

p!?^

)vernment

Added to

the gross

the coun-

unihilated

•ecially of

at portion

public.

it of each
hem, com-
i^rince.

aieut, is a
20,000 in-
jlack, and
3 are very
I liuudred
)rotection.

ermau, or

it revolu-
i'here are
the town ;
)er, their

i#i. I. ..4

tm

Ml'-

k

^

^

^

i!

mm.

326

GENERAL SALAMON.

pay and rations being drawn with great regu-
larity by the numerous generals, of whom there
are no less than 2000. Whenever a general
dies a salute is fired, consequently minute-guns
may be heard almost every day. Many of the
titles belonging to Haitien ofiieiti' seem to
have been borrowed from the confectioners, — ■
thus we have Generals Marmalade and Lemon-
ade, &c.; and the churchyard bears record to
the virtues of several noble dukes of the same
distinguished character.

The President, General Salamon, is an enlight-
ened and intelligent black man, educated in
Paris, with the manners and education of a
polished Ij'renchman. His wife is a French lady
of agreeable manners and address.

A grand ball and reception was given in our
honour by the President, and all the beauty
and fashion of Port au Prince were present.
Dancing was kept up with great vigour till
an early hour in the morning, notwithstanding
that the thermometer stood at 96°. The fun
grew fast and furious, and the bouquet d'Afrique
was decidedly pronounced : naval officers in
tail-coats and epaulets swung round with dusky

THE PRESIDENTS BALL.

327

beauties, carrying all before them. Sucldeiily
the trumpets sounded, and the President was
announced. The band struck up the national
air, and his Excellency was observed approach-
ing, Madame La Presideute leaning on his arm,
and a couple of A.D.C.'s on either side — one of
them dressed from head to foot in scarlet, with
plumes to match, the other in green ; so that
the gallant old general loomed like a steamer
in a Newfoundland fog, with the bow-lights
gleaming through the mist. By-and-by supper
was commenced ; champagne of a xevy sweet
kind flowod like water ; speeches followed. The
heat and the houqiiet were awful, but I did not
wait to see the last of it, preferring a good cigar
in the cool night air outside.

in

The financial condition of the country may
be described as rotten : the Custom - house is
mortgaged to a French bank, and all payments
are made through the bank. The natives being
jealous of foreign interference, no white man is
allowed to hold property in Haiti ; consequently
some of the whites marry Haitien women and
hold property in their name. A considerable

hr. i

i|

i'f

328

VISIT FROM THE PRESIDENT.

1^1
III

\M

ill

trade is carried on from Port au Prince ; several
lines of steamers regularly call there, and the
vessels of the Royal Mail do so once a-month.
The town is exceedingly dirty, and during the
summer unhealthy, yellow fever and small-pox
often raging with terrible malignity. During
three months the deaths in Port au Prince alone
from the latter disease were one-fourth of the
whole population.

After a short stay at this place, I took fare-
well of the worthy old President, who returned
the visit, and was received with a royal salute.
The sentry at the palace gate asked the first
lieutenant, who accompanied me, to give him a
copper. The poor wretch was in rags, and prob-
ably received no wages.

The President complained much about the
disturbed state of the country, but said that his
remedies were producing the desired effect. I
found out afterwards that he had shot fourteen
people at San Marks, and the same number at
Cape Haytien. Another fourteen were to have
been shot at Gonaives, so that there should
be no ill-feeling between the places ; but an
appeal was made in their favour, and they

SAN MARKS.

329

were brought to Port au Prince and imprisoned
instead.

I told his Excellency that we also had our
troubles at home, and I wished we had him to
deal with the disaffected ones. " Ah," said
he, showing his white teeth, " they want a firm
grip."

From Port au Prince we proceeded to San
Marks, arriving there after dark. The anchor-
age is deep, close to the shore, so that ships
liaul their sterns in to anchors on the beach.

San Marks is a thriving little place, with a
pojDulation of 5000, of whom 30 to 40 are Brit-
ish subjects. About 1500 troops (on paper) are
quartered in the town, their pay being drawn
by the generals, who receive no pay. A large
trade is carried on in logwood, some 12,000 tons
of which are shipped annually in French, Ameri-
can, and Norwegian vessels. Eight thousand
bags of coffee are also annually exported. A
most luxuriant valley extends from the back of
the town, estimated to be capable of producing
a million pounds of cotton, if it was cultivated.
The cotton is of excellent quality, growing al-
most wild, no plough being used. Pine-apples,

i

ij. v':

]i'

i

330

GONAIVES.

strawberries, peaches, melons, oranges, apples,
guavas, mangoes, &c., grow wild, Avitliout any
attempt at cultivation. Tobacco is also grown,
but no sugar, the latter being imported.

Our next port of call was Gonaives, a town of
some imjjortance, numbering 7000 inhabitants,
the only white people being H.B.M. consul and
his ftimily.

The town was burnt down in one of the
numerous rebellions, and has never recovered.
The Bay of Gonaives is spacious, and the scenery
in the neighbourhood very fine.

At each of these places it became my duty to
pay an official visit to the commandant, who
was always a general. Having arranged the
time and place, I landed to pay ^.ny respects
in full uniform, attended by our consul. A
ragged guard of honour received me, composed
of the most wretched lot of poor half-starved
vagabonds. They never had any shoes, and
their garments were scanty. A brass band
struck up an apology for "God save the Queen,"
and continued playing it during the interview.
After a few preliminary compliments, we ad-
journed to the salon, where a sweet abomina-

., ,

CAPE HAYTIEN.

331

hM

ics, apples,

dthoiit any

also grown,

;ecl.

i, a town of

nliabitants,

consul and

one of the

recovered.

the scenery

my duty to
idant, who
mn^ed the
ly respects
consul. A
, composed
lalf-starved
shoes, and
jrass band
he Queen,"
interview.
ts, we ad-
abomina-

tion called champagne was served. The general
then made a speech overflowing with most
fulsome compliments. We then drank her
Majesty's health, when it became my turn ; and
in the best French I was master of, I assured
the general of the deep interest her Majesty had
always taken in Haiti, and in that place in par-
ticular, and trusted that the harmonious rela-
tions which had always existed between the two
countries would be maintained, &c., &c. After
which speech, which required washing down, we
again liquored, the Mulligan guards presented
arms once more, and we departed.

Bounding the western point of Haiti, the first
port of importance is Cape Haytien, commonly
called The Cape. This is the second town in
Haiti, and may be remembered as the place
where H.M.S. Bulldog was abandoned. The
city was destroyed by an earthquake in 1843,
and subsequently bombarded by H.M. ships
Galatea and Lily. At the present time a steam-
pinnace with one gun could capture the place.
The town is very dirty, being only cleaned by
the rains ; but the climate is delightful, and
the scenery superb. The English consul com-

t:,

|i !■

1

1, ,

w

■.w

B

332

CAPE HAYTIEN.

;; I

ill I'

.ll^

plained to me that very much of his time, and
not a little of his salary, were taken up in
burying Jamaica negroes, whose bodies were
left lying about the streets. I advised him to
send in his bill to the Governor of Jamaica !

Cape Haytien is a port of call for several lines
of steamers from Europe and the States. Trade
is flourishing, the exports being chiefly coflee
and logwood, which are carried in French, Ger-
man, and Norwegian vessels, but few English.
In one year 100,000 bags of coff'ee, valued at
£200,000, and 25,000 tons of logwood, valued
at £125,000, were exported. The usual number
of jDapcr troops were quartered in the town,
commanded by some distinguished general.

We now leave Haiti for a while, but return
to it presently. The next port visited by the
Druid was Porto Plata, the first place belonging
to the Dominican Kepublic if approaching it
from the westward. Hitherto the people have
been French-speaking, now they are Spanish —
San Domingo having once belonged to Spain, as
Haiti did to France. Both are now indejjendent
republics.

Porto Plata is a clean, picturesque little town.

PORTO PLATA.

333

time, and
ken up in
xlies were
sed him to
maica !
jvcral lines
:es. Trade
iefly coffee
•ench, Ger-
w English.

valued at
lod, valued
lal number
the town,
general,
jut return
cd by the

belonginfr
oaching it
ople have
Spanish —

Spain, as
dej^endent

ittle town.

sii[)erior in every way to the Haitien ports.
The climate is plensant, and the scenery fine.
There are no white inhabitants, beyond the con-
sul and his family. The i)rincipal export is
toljacco. Sugar is also exported ; but the sugar
trade is in its infancy, and will prol)ably in time
supersede tobacco. Coffee is also a new indus-
try, also cocoa (the chocolate of commerce) ;
lioiiey, bees'- wax, and hides are exported.
Yevy fine mahogany is grown in this district,
I saw specimens fully equal, if not superior, to
Honduras mahogany. An American company
have commenced nnning on a large scale, and
have started a gold - mine some fifty miles
inland. Several shafts have been sunk, and
the company expect to net 50,000 dollars per
annum. I procured a quantity of earth from
the bottom of this mine, containing minute spe-
cimens of marine shells, — how they got there 1
leave to geologists to determine. I have seen
marine shells in abundance at the top of a
mountain in the Gulf of California, showing
that the land must at one time have been
covered by the sea ; but sea-shells at the bottom
of a mine many hundred feet deep is beyond

i-l

{"

t,

s *

334

SANTA BARBARA.

w

my comprehension. At the city of Santiago dc
los Caballeros, a day's journey into the interior,
a white race of people exist, 'i'hese people arc
descended from the old Spaniards, and thoy do
not intermarry or mix in any way with the
neighbouring population. Porto Plata possesses
a fine iron pier for the convenience of steamers
coming alongside, also an iron skeleton light-
house at the entrance. Our next port of call
was Santa Barbara de Samand, also belongino;
to San Domingo, one of the most beautiful
places in the island, with a snag anchorage; but
that is all that can be said for it. The town is
a dirty, straggling, picturesque little place, and
very unhealthy. During our stay here we ex-
ercised at night quarters, but hearing the guns
being cast loose, the Q-overnor sent off bes-mna
US not to create a disturbance, as a revolution
would certainly take place. I waited on this
functionary in the morning, on behalf of an
unfortunate negro, a British subject, whom he
had brutally ill-used, and threatened further
proceedings if some redress wr • a. The

poor negroes are verj- ''i'^^ .^tv >y these

mongrels.

SAN DOMINGO.

835

antiago do
ic interior,
people are
icl they do
7 with tlie
a possesses
)f steamers
eton liglit-
)ort of call
> belonging
t beautiful
iiorage; l»ut
Che town is
i place, and
lere we ex-
ig the guns
off begging
re^■olution
ed on this
lalf of an
whom he
ed further
a. The
y these

Samand will one day be a place of import-
ance, as the Americans have an eye on it for a
coaling-station, and have been surveying the
harbour for some time past. The whole i)enin-
sula was at one time ceded to an American
comi){iny for the purpose of growing fruit, the
soil being wonderfully rich and suitable for the
})iU'pose ; but the contract fell through.

The Custom-house is farmed to a few local
merchants, who pay 80 dollars a -day for the
proceeds. The money thus gained is supposed
to go to pay the troops, who were conspicuous
by their absence.

Having now skirted the northern shores of
the island, we passed through the Mona Passage,
and turned our head westwards, arriving soon
afterwards at San Domingo, the capital of the
Eepublic. This city is interesting chiefly to
archaeologists, the bastions forming a picturesque
ruin, and showing traces of former greatness.
The city is situated at the mouth of the river
Ozama, navigable for craft drawing 11 feet: large
vessels have to anchor in the roads, exposed to
the wind and sea. It is proposed to dredge the
mouth of the river, so as to allow large vessels

p

iif

iii.

k

iili

It

V

336

SAN DOMINGO.

to anchor otf tlie town. This would increase
the commercial prospects of the place to a very
great extent. A considerable trade is carried
on with European ports. In 1879, 33,400 tons
of shipping cleared outwards, carrying cargo
of the value of 600,000 dollars. The principal
items are sugar, cocoa, gum, hides, honey, bees'-
wax, and coffee , also tortoise-shell, mahogan}',
lignum vitse, fustic, logwood, and an extract
of logwood largely used by wine -merchants for
tilt manufticture of port wine ! The imports are
about equal in vabie.

jNIahogany is almost exhausted in the ncigli-
bou]'hood, so that it will probably soon cease to
be shipped. On the other hand, sugar is being-
cultivated with success, and is now exported,
instead of being imported as heretofore.

Near the borders of a large lake named
Enriquillo a mountain of rock-salt has been
discovered, and a company has been formed
to work the same ; but my experience of opera-
tions of the kind in countries where revolutions
are frequent, would not lead me to be sanguine
as to the result of this undertaking. It is said
that the lake Enriquillo is connected with the

SAN DOMINGO.

337

Id increase
e to a very
is carried
J3,400 tons
ying cargo
e principal
oney, bees'-
maliogany,
an extract
;rcliaiits for
imports are

the neigli-
^on cease to
gar is being
exported,
pre.
ike named
t has been
een formed
L^e of opera-
evolutions
)e sanguine
It is said
ed with the

sea, although many miles inland, by a subter-
raneous passage, and that the water rises and
falls with the tide. The Dominican Kepublic
has no standing army ; but every man possesses
a weapon of some sort, which he freely uses on
tilt; slightest provocation. No revolution had
tak(Mi place for a year previous to our visit, Init

^•4

;*^j^:

'.rsis

J..

Church of San Francisco, San Domingo.

one was confidently expected, and did actually
take place very soon afterwards.

The population of the city is about 15,000,
two-thirds of whom are of Spanish origin ; the
remainder are blacks.

The entire navv of San Dominoo, a small
sailing-schooner, was at anchor oil" the town.

Y

tin

'. ff«

I

838

REMAINS OF COLUMBUS.

San Domingo boasts of possessing the oldest
cliurcli in the New World, built by Columbus.
The cathedral, which is unfinished and likely
to remain so, contains some fine carvings pre-
sented by Ferdinand and Isabella, wliose por-
traits adorn the walls. Columbus's house is
also a fine old ruin : the bones of the great

Columbus' s House, San Domingo.

navigator have lately been discovered in n
box in the church, and are carefully preservc(l.
The discovery was made while excavating near
the altar ; and from the inscription on the out-
side of the box, as well as that on a silver plate
on the inside, there F'^ems to be strong reason
to believe that they are the remains of the

>.:

JACMEL.

339

the oldest
l*oluml)us.
md likely
viiigs pre-
^'liose por-
3 house is
the creat

ored in n
preservetl.

mating near

)ii the out-
diver plate

lono; reason

great man

at least part of them, for the
Spaniards claim to have already got his remains
at Havana, having abstracted them from this
very church. It is said, however, that they
have been imposed on. Meantime each party
regards the other as an impostor. From very
careful inquiries, I gathered that these parties
liave got between them three or four tons of
bones belonging to Columbus, including at least
three of his skulls. One of his skeletons is also
preserved at Genoa.

Leaving San Domingo on the 24tli January,
we once more crossed the boundary and entered
Haitien w\aters at Jacmel. Interesting as were
all these places, I consider Jacmel to bear the
palm as the most interesting of them all. It
is rather a handsome-lookin2; town from the
sea, and boasts some fortifications. Observino;
these, I sent ashore to ask if a salute would
l)e returned if we fired one. I was told they
would certainly do so if we would lend them the
powder, as theirs liad all been expended in
tiring minute-guns for departed generals. So we
lent them the pow^der, and at tlie same time
lins of tlie | borrowed a Haitien flag wdierewnth to salute.

'Ml

fi

H'l

340

JACMEL.

I am not sure who was in the more humiliatinjx
position of the two. The officials of the port
came off in full dress, to thank me for the hon-
our. There is something touching in these poor
fellows endeavouring to keep up appearances for
the credit of their country, appearing in gorge-
ous uniforms, smothered in gold lace, when
one knows that they have not received any
pay for a twelvemonth, nor had a square rneal
for as long ; that at their own home they live
on any garbage, and dress in the seediest of
garments, and keep their family in a state of
semi-starvation, to pay for their uniform and
the trappings of their charger.

I have said that Jacmel is an interestiuo-
place, and so it is. The town is the filth-
iest I ever saw — even in Haiti. Manufactures
there are none. Agriculture in the most prim-
itive state — in fact, left much to nature ; the
coffee-plants grown into trees, and the berries
drojjping on the ground. The soil is splendid,
but the people are too indolent to develop it ;
provisions are consequently scarce and dear.
Tbere are 800 troops (visionary) quartered in
the town, and no less than 300 generals, of

AUX CAYES.

341

whom only 10 are paid : the rtmainder forage
about and get their living as they can. There
is a hospital, but it is roofless : no charitable
institutions of any kind exist — no refuge for the
poor, sick, or blind. Lunatics roam at large.

There are no British residents except the
consul : it is very much to his credit that he
is not a lunatic also. The place is very un-
healthy, and steamers generally give it a wide
berth.

I shall have more to say of Jacmel presently ;
but I shall move on for the present to the
last port of call in Haiti — Aux Cayes, a very
pretty little town, and a good anchorage, al-
though an open roadstead. The population
numbers 10,000, none of whom are white, ex-
cept the consul, his family, and a few mer-
chants. A considerable amount of trade is done
here, and several lines of steamers call regu-
hxrly for cargoes. The principal exports are —
coffee, honey, cocoa, and logw^ood. The Govern-
ment, with short-sighted policy, lately increased
the duty on logwood, tliereby putting a pro-
hibitory tax upon it, with the object of pre-
venting foreigners from making a living, and

i

r»

t,l:

il

342

AUX CAYES.

thus driving them out of the country in disgust.
The environs of Aux Cayes are beautiful, and
there are very pretty rides about ; but the hope-
less condition of the roads renders any exerci.s..-
of the kind more a toil than a pleasure.

343

' 1

■ ■■'■ Ji=

i

CHAPTER XV.

EEMARKS UPON THE SOCIAL AND RELIGIOUS
INSTITUTIONS OF HAITL

It would be impossible to dismiss Haiti without
sometliing more than a passing glance at the
social and religious condition of this remarkable
island— a condition of affairs so peculiar, that
I shall neither be surprised nor offended if the
reader gives me credit for a lively imagination,
or at least a gross exaggeration of facts. All I
expect is a careful perusal of the forthcoming
chapter, and the reader may believe it or not
as lie pleases.

On our first arrival at Port au Prince, I was
informed by a gentleman in high position and
undoubted integrity that I had come amongst
a race of people indulging in cannibalism, secret

m

w

f ' ^,-

li

!'i;!r

344

SECRET CANNIBALISM.

poisoners, sorcerers, ghouls, child -slayers, and
serpent- worshippers. This information was im-
parted to me in a mysterious way — with doors
closed and bolted, and a careful look round to see
that no eavesdroppers were about. My inform-
ant assured me that if it was known that he
was telling me of these matters, his life would
not be worth an hour's purchase, as he would be
undoubtedly poisoned ; but that he felt it his
duty to apprise me, as a naval officer in com-
mand of one of her Majesty's ships, of these
proceedings.

Having listened to a mass of disgusting de-
tails sufficient to sicken a scavenger, I went on
board and pondered over them, aided by a cigar
and some mild refreshment. " Either these
things are facts or false," I said to myself;
"they may be the distorted imagination of an
intellect deteriorated by long residence in such
a place, or they may be perfectly true ; at
any rate, as I am going round the island, I
will endeavour to find out." Taking counsel
of my trusty first lieutenant, we made careful
inquiries at every place we visited in Haiti,
from those competent to judge of the truth

INHABITANTS OF HAlTI.

345

II

of these matters ; and although information
was not readily forthcoming — especially from
the blacks — still, when we assured people
that anything they might say would be con-
sidered confidential, and that their names would
not be exposed, a good deal of interesting de-
tails were divulged, corroborating to a remark-
able degree the particulars already detailed
to me.

Before going further, it will be necessary to
explain how the island came to be peopled by
the present inhabitants.

It seems tliat the ancestors of the present in-
habitants of Haiti came originally from the
Congo, on the west coast of Africa. They are
said to have belonged to a race called the
Mondongoes. These people are cannibals and
serpent - worshippers ; they are also sorcerers,
and famed for their skill as secret poisoners.
The descendants of this race brought with them
to Haiti all the arts and secrets of their reli<:^don.
During the French occupation they appear to
liave been debarred from practising their rites ;
but since the French evacuated the island, some
eighty years ago, they have indulged in them,

i:ij'|...

■|*^|!i

m

.1

34G

THE VOUDOUX.

and continue to do so at the present time. TIk*
religion of Haiti is ostensibly Roman Catholic :
an archbishop, four l)ishops, and nearly one
hundred priests of that order are established
in the country ; but they are powerless in the
face of a secret society called the Voudoux or
serpent-worshippers, which pervades all classes
of the blacks from the President downwards.
The present head of the Republic, General
Salamon, a black man, is professedly averse to
Youdouxism ; but as his position depends upon
his influence with the blacks, he is neutral in
the matter, and prefers to ignore it.

The immediate effect of Voudouxism has
been disastrous to the country. Trade is par-
alysed, and the natural resources of the island
remain undeveloDed. Haiti is known to possess
valuable mines Ox gold, silver, and copper, which
are not worked. Hundreds of thousands of acres
of virgin soil, capable of producing the finest
crops of sugar, coffee, tobacco, cocoa, and indigo,
are neglected. The population is reported to
be decreasing ; the mortality amongst children
is alarming ; and deaths by secret poisoning and
assassination are frequent. That this is duo

VOUDOUXISM.

347

ne. The
Catholic :
}[irly one
ittiblislK-'tl
;ss in the
)udoux or
ill classes
)wnwarcls.
, General
averse to
3ncls upon
neutral in

ixism has
do is par-
he island
o possess
lev, which
ds of acres
the finest
id indigo,
ported to
t children

oning and

lis IS

due

to the influence of Voudouxism there can l)e
no doubt.

Priests belonffino; to the order are to be
found in every village, and temples for the
practice of their diabolical rites and ceremonies
are scattered over the country. At these
places, at regular times, corresponding with our
Christmas, Easter, and Whitsuntide, the most
disgusting orgies and sacrifices take place. No
white man has ever been permitted to witness
these ceremonies • but from trustworthy evi-
dence I am able to furnish the following
details.

The people are called together l)y beat of
drum, usually at midnight. The ceremony be-
gins by administering oaths enjoining secrecy.
Dancing then commences, the excitement being
supplemented by copious libations of rum, till
one or more of the wretches fall down in a fit,
when the spirit of Voudoux is supposed to have
entered into them. These orgies generally last
three days, but often much longer. On the
first night a priest sacrifices a cock at the altar,
the blood being drunk warm. Dancing then
recommences, and the orgies go on till the

I

III

348

VOUDOUX ORGIES.

iiidividutils are incapable of furtlier exertions.
Oil tlie Hecoiul night a goat is saenfieed, and
the hlood drunk as before. (Jn tlie third niglit
tiie orgies continue, when a little child is
brought in : the cliild's throat is cut by tlie
priest, the blood handed round and drunk
warm ; the body is tlien cut up and eaten raw,
that which is not disposed of being salted for
furtlier use, special parts being reserved for the
priest. The women are said to be the worst on
these occasions. Children not over ten years of
age are usually selected for sacrifice, those of
pure African descent being preferred. It is said
that such is the fear of the priest that as many
children as are required are invariably forth-
coming— either given up, often voluntarily so,
by their own mothers, or stolen. A class of pro-
fessional child-stealers exist, whose business it
is to supply the victims. These monsters, gen-
erally women, enter a house during the night,
their bodies naked and oiled, and steal the child.
The unfortunate victim is then rendered insen-
sible by narcotic poison and kept in a secret
place till required, when it is restored to con-
sciousness by antidotes, preparatory for the

CANNIBALISM.

349

iccrtions.
zed, and
rd uiglit
child is
, by the
;1 drunk
iten raw,
alted fur
I for the
worst on
I years of
those of
It is said
; as many
ly forth-
tarily so,
,ss of pro-
usiuess it
crs, gen-
ie night,
he chikl.
3d insen-
a secret
1 to con-
for the

final sacrifice. In this manner it is compuied
that many hundreds of children are annually
butchered, bo great is the dread of the \ou-
doux priests, that no complaint is made l)y the
parents, and it is even stated that mothers have
been known to fatten up their own cliildren for
the sacrifice ! No wonder that the mortality
amongst children is great.

But it is not only on these occasions that
children are devoured ; the negro would appear
to have a natural relish for human flesh, and
women have been known to eat newly born
children. Human Hesh has been sold in the
markets, and it is said that a lard is prepared
from human fat and sold in the same wa}\
Instances have occurred of l^oth men and
women being caught in the act of eating chil-
dren they have killed in cold blood, not because
they were starving, but from taste. In these
cases the guilty parties have received a mere
nominal punishment, to satisfy public opinion.
In the days of President Gefliard, Voudouxism
was suppressed with a strong hand ; and on one
occasion, when it was proved that a child had
been stolen, murdered, and eaten in the name

\im^mF

350 NOMINAL PUNISHMENT OF CANNIBALS.

of Voudoux, the guilty parties, eight in all,
among whom were several women, were tried
and publicly shot. It is, however, generally
admitted that this act of justice was utterly
without effect, except that it made the practice
more secret ; and the condition of the country is
acknowledged to be in this respect worse than
ever. But these things, horrible though they
are, sink into insignificance beside the fact that
it is by no means an uncommon occurrence for
corpses to be disinterred in order to feast upon
the putrid remains. Lest this may noi: be
credited, I may mention here that, at the time
(»f our visit to Jacmel, two neo;roes were cauo;ht
en ting a corpse they had disinterred and stolen.
They were sentenced to a month's imprisonment
and thirty dollars' fine !

To sliow that these statements are not pure
inventions but are founded on fact, I will here
give a few extracts from notes taken on the spot.

In May 1878 two women were caught at Port
au Prince in the act of eating; a female child.
It was proved that the child had l)een purposely
drugged by these wretches. The poor parents,
believing it to be dead, had it Iniricd, when

IBALS.

CASES OF CANNIBALISM.

351

it ill all,
veve tried

generally
IS utterly
c practice
country is
'orse than
)ugli they
3 fact that
irrence for
■east upon
y not be
.t the time
ere caught

nd stolen.
>risonment

le not pure

will here

11 the spot.

it at Port

ale child.

purposely

r parents,

iod, when

these women disinterred it, restored the poor
child to its senses by antidotes, then killed it in
a most cruel way and ate it.

A Haitien and his family were discovered
eating a small boy, another boy being tied to
a tree ready to be devoured. These people
were shot. Human meat has been openly sold
in the market-place of Port au Prince and iden-
tified by a medical man. At Ban Marks Voud-
ouxism is in full operation, especially in the
mountains. The people assemble at beat of
drum, as already described ; many children are
sacrificed, and human fiesli has been sold in the
market-place by the barrel under the name of
pork. This was told me by an eyewitness who
recognised the flesh.

Corpses are disinterred for food and robbery.
The Government are aware of these proceedings,
l)ut wink at them.

Gonaives. — Voudouxism exists here, but in a
modified degree ; the feasts and ceremonies take
place in the towni, but no human sacrifices. In
the country the same customs prevail as else-
where. M}^ informant, having black l)lood in
his veins, was somewhat reticent.

ID;

' ' "' ■ -'H 1

III

)i

II

1

III

352

VOUDOUXISM.

Capo Haytien. — Voudouxism is principally
confined to the mountains ; the ceremony com-
mencing with the sacrifice of cock, goat, or ser-
pent, and ending with (children — a three days' de-
bauch. A clergyman of the Church of England,
himself a coloured man, told me that Voudoux-
ism interfered greatly with his work. He sub-
stantiated the liorril)le atrocities perpetrated
along the coast and in the country ; children
stolen, butchered, and their fiesh sold in the
town. He said that a woman offered human
flesh for sale at his own door, and that his
wife was nearly buying it, believing it to be
pork.

Jacmel. — The hotbed of Voudouxism. The
ceremony was described to me by an eyewit-
ness, who saw the human remains eaten, and
probaljly participated in the feast.

Tw^o men in prison for eating a child, caught
red-handed and fined. TVo others caught eat-
ing a corpse. At Christmas time gigantic
orgies took place, lasting a fortniglit. It was
computed that 9000 persons were present, the
rendezvous being at the house of a notorious
Viudoux priestess named Susanette.

MURDER NECESSARY FOR IMITATIOX. 353

?incipally
ony com-
it, or ser-
1 days' de-
Euglaiid,
Voudoux-
He sub-
3rpetrated
; children
)ld in tlio
k1 Imman
I that his
r it to be

sm.

The

in eyewit-
'aten, and

ihl, caught
laught eat-
gio-antic
It was
L'esent, the
notorious

At Aux Cayes Voudouxism is said not to bo
so bad ; but the annual feasts are the same, as
certified by reliable eyewitnesses, one of whom
was present at the baj)tism of a woman for the
Voudoux fiiith. Before being permitted to join
this sect, it is said to be necessary for the candi-
date to have murdered some one, either black,
Ijrown, or white — children for choice ; hence it
would appear that nine -tenths of the whole
population of Haiti are mur<lerers as well as
cannibals, since nearly every man or woman
belongs to the sect.

As a matter of fact, it is not too much to say
that one portion of the community are engaged
in devouring the other. It is hardly surprising
that under this process the population should
decrease. In the art of secret poisoning the
Voudoux priests are said to be unusually ex-
pert : the secret was brought over from their
native land, and transmitted from father to
son. They are said to be familiar with the
properties of every tree and shrub, and their
effect upon the human system ; and they claim
that as professional poisoners they have no

!«^|

■4

^^tJj^^jm

^^^r

354

SECKET POISONING.

In this matter of secret poisoning I confess it
was very difficult to obtain any information, so
tenacious are they of the secrets of their in-
famous trade. The Voudoux priests are pro-
fessional poisoners in addition to their other
accomplishments : they exercise their vocation
with great secrecy and suctcess, and so craftily
that detection is impossible. It is said that
these wretches can poison by slow degrees
or quickly ; that they can deprive a person of
reason either temporarily or permanently, with
or without pain, as desired ; that they can cause
the victim to break out with loathsome erup-
tions, or reduce a person to a state of insensi-
bility resembling death, and restore him at will
by the use of antidotes. For every known
poison they have the antidote, and in fact there
seems to be no limit to their cunning and their
skill. In consequence they are often applied
to by persor s desirous of ridding themselves of
an enemy, from motives of env)^, hatred, or
revenge ; especially, also, by women desirous of
"removing" an importunate lover, or one who
has deserted them for another.

The above, doubtless, accounts for the mys-

SORCERY.

355

^

iiifess it
tion, so
lieir iii-
ire pro-
ir other
vocation
craftily
aid that
degrees
person of
tly, with
?au cause
me erup-
f inseiii^i-
a at will
known
•act there
luid their
1 applied
liselves of
^atred, or
isirous of
one who

Ithe mys-

terious disappearance of persons so frequent in
Haiti.

Sorcery is also practised all over the country ;
every black man or woman is a firm believer in
it, and there are schools for the study of this
art. In this respect the Jamaica Idacks • are
equally ignorant and superstitious. They are all
believers in " Obie "-worship, which is identical
with Voudoux ; and I am of opinion that the
same ceremonies and orgies would be practised
in Jamaica as in Haiti, were it not for the strong
arm of the law.

It may be said, What arc the Roman Catholic
priests doing to permit such atrocities, seeing
that the religion of the country is professedly
Roman Catholic ? The f"ct is, they are powerless
in the matter : they are perfectly aware of the
proceedings, but, being unable to prevent them,
they wink at or openly countenance them. As
a matter of fact, the Roman Catholic religion
is not that of the country, but is assumed
to keep up their position in the eyes of civil-
ised nations. Theirs is what it always has
been — the religion, if it can be called one, of
the West African negro, — an unwholesome mix-

li''

111'

5

lie

iiii'i

356

VOUDOUXISM.

ture of sorcery, murder, cannibalism, secret
poisoning, and corpse-eating. Such is the re-
ligion of Haiti ; and such it is likely to remain,
whatever may be said to the contrary, until
civilised nations step in and exclaim that the
time has arrived when God's beautiful world
shall no longer be defiled by such savages
as these. The land should be taken from
them and given to a people more worthy to
hold it, and to utilise the many advantages
a bountiful Providence has enriched it with.
An example should be first made of the Vou-
doux priests, who make a living by imposing
on the ignorance of the poor black savages.

Better had it been if Columbus had never
discovered these islands, or, having done so,
had left the simple harmless race who then
inhabited them in possession, instead of allow-
ing his people to brutally ill-use and eventually
destroy them, only to be replaced by such bar-
barians as these. Philanthropists may claim
that the black man is intellectually equal to the
white, and equally capable of self-government.
I think that after such revelations as I have

THE FUTURE OF HAITI.

357

I, secret
the re-
> remain,
:y, until
that tlie
ul world
savages
ccn from
,'orthy to
Ivantages
it with,
the Vou-
iniposing
pavages.
ad never
done so,
who then
of allow-
entually
such bar-
[lay claim
ual to the
vernnient.
IS I have

attempted to describe, it is an insult to one's
intelligence to suppose so.

In answer to this the Haiticns may point to
their institutions, schools, churches, and laws,
modelled, as they claim, after those of France
(no compliment to the latter country, by the
by), and to their diplomatic relations with other
civilised countries. They claim also that life
and property are safe. As regards the former
it is probably so, provided the traveller be old
and tough ; as regards the latter, no foreigner is
allowed to hold land in his own name : but I
believe it is admitted that the ordinary traveller
may go where he pleases without fear of being
molested.

These peoj^le (the Haiticns) have their faults,
and their tastes are certainly peculiar ; l)ut their
faults are due to ignorance, and I believe the
poor uneducated inhabitants are naturally peace-
able and honest.

It is difficult to conjecture what will be the
future of Haiti ; possibly in time to come it
may be annexed by the United States or other
powerful and civilised country. In the niean-

''it

!:il

358 SIR SPENCER ST JOHN ON VOUDOUXISM.

time it is, I fear, destiued to remain a blot on
the face of the earth, a disgrace and a parody
on the name of civilisation, and a monument of
anarchy and misrule.

It was without any regret that we turned our
Imcks ujMm this lieautiful island and its ghastly
horrors, and returned to Jamaicn, preparatory
to further service on the coast of Newfoundland.

In the introduction to Sir Spencer St John's
interesting book on Haiti ^ (which I have only
seen while my book is going through the i)ress),
I notice the following exi^ract : —

" After having written the chapter on Voudoux-
worship Diy attention was called to a communication
which appeared in 'Vanity Fair' of Au<>-. 13, 1<S81,
by a reply pul)Uslied in a Haytien journal. It is
evident tbat the writer in ' Vanity Fair ' was a naval
otticer, or a passing traveller in the AVest Indies, and
he probahly carefully noted the information given him.
He was, however, too inclined to believe what lie
heard, as he gravely states that a Haytien told him
that the kidneys of a cliild were tivst-rate eating, add-
ing that he hud tried tliem himself ; and the writer
.remarks that the Haytien did not seem to think it

1 St John's 'Bliick Republic'

XISM.

blot on
I parody
imcut of

rued our
8 ghastly
3paratory
mudland,

St John's
lave only
he press),

Voudoux-
nuuicatiou
13, 1881,
lud. It is
las a naval
lulies, and
oiveii hiiu.
what he
told hiiu
fating, add-
the writer
0 think it

SIR SPENCER ST JOHN ON VOUDOUXISM. 359

strange or out of tlie way that lie had done so. No
Haytien would have ever stated seriously that he had
eaten human flesh. l*rol)ahly amused hy the eager-
ness of the incjuirer, he told the story to test his ])owers
of belief, and must have been diverted when he found
that his statement was credited. Cannibalism is the
one thing of which Haytiens are thoroughly ashamed.
" This comnuniication makes mention of the herb-
poisonings and their antidotes ; of the midwives who
render new-born babes insensil)le, that are l)uried, dug
up, restored to life, and then eaten. In May 1879 a
midwife and another were caught near I*ort au I'rince
eating a female baby that had l)een thus treated; he
adds that a Haytien of good position was discovered
with his family eating a child. In the former case the
criminals were condennied to six weeks' imprisonment,
in the latter to one month. (I may notice that I never
heard of a respectable Haytien being connected with
the cannibals.) The light punishments inflicted were
due to tlie fear inspired by the Voudoux priests. In
January 1881 eight people were fined for disinterring
and eating ccjrpses. An English medical man pur-
chased and identified the neck a!ul shoulders of a
human being in the market at Port au Prince. In
February 1881, at St Marc, a cask of so-called pork
was sold to a foreign ship. In it were discovered
fingei's and finger-nails, and all the flesh proved to be
that of human beings. An English coloured clergy-
man at Cap Haitien said that the Voudoux did away
with all the effect of his ministry ; and chat his wife

'III''

ir4

H §

i,.

m

360 SIR SPENCER ST JOHN ON VOUDOUXISM.

was nearly purchasing in the market human flesli
instead of pork. Four people were fined in that town
for eatint^ corpses. When the writer {irrived at Jacmel
he found two men in prison for eating corpses ; and on
the day of his arrival a man was caught eating a child.
Near the same town nine thousand people met at
Christmas to celel)rate Voudoux rites. At Les Cayes
a child of English parents was stolen, and on the
thieves heing pursued, they threw it into a well and
killed it.

"These are the statements made l>y the writer in
* Vanity Fair,' and nearly all are prohahle. If correct,
the open practice of Voudoux-worship and cannibal-
ism must have made great strides since I left Hayti,
and shows how little a black Government can do, or
will do, to suppress them. The digging up and eating
of corpses was not known during my residence there.

" This communication to ' Vanity Fair ' provoked a
reply in a journal published at Port au Prince, called
' L'CEil,' October 1st, 1881. It denies everything, even
to the serious existence and power of the Voudoux
priests, and spends all its energies in abuse. The
article is quite worthy of tlie editor, who was one of
the most active supporters of President Salnave, whose
connection with the Voudoux was notorious. It is in
this angry spirit that the Haytiens generally treat any
public reference to their peculiar institution."

I read this extract widi the greatest possible
interest; for in it I trailed my own hand writ-

SIR SPENCER ST JOHN ON VOUDOUXISM. 361

ing, word for word, taken from origiual notes.
As a matter of fact, it is doul)tful if these notes
would ever have been published, even in the
modified form they are here presented; but
since they have l)een already pul)lished by a
friend t(^ whom I lent them, and since Sir
Spencer St John not only confirins my account,
but, from his long experien(!e of the countr}^,
gives fuller details, there can be no possible
object in withholding them now. It will be ob-
served that Sir Spencer allows the prol)ability of
the statements in ' Vanity Fair,' excepting tlie
fact of any Haitien admitting that he had eaten
human Hesh. Now this, as well as every other
statement I have mentioned, is perfectly true.
On the occasion referred to I was in conversa-
tion with a l)lack man, and happened to mention
cannibalism in a random kind of way, as though
I had not heard anything about it. On my
asking him if he ever indulged in anj^thing of
the kind, he promptly denied doing so. I turned
the conversation, ])ut just before leaving him
alluded to it again, in a light and airy way,
leading him to suppose I rather hankered after
the institution myself

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362

A GHASTLY STORY,

" Well, captain" (the fellow spoke English per-
fectly), "all I know is, a child's kidneys is first-
class, though some says the knuckles is better I "
Possibly he may, as Sir Spencer says, have been
joking ; but from the way he smacked his lips
aiid showed his teeth, I should say the joke was
rather a ghastly one. This reminds me of the
story of a missionary, lately returned from the
west coast of Africa. Being asked by a lady
" How he liked babies ? " replied, " Well, mum,
on the whole, I prefer them boiled ! "

363

CHAPTER XVI.

A CRUISE AMONGST TilE ISLANDS OFF THE MOSQUITO

COAST-TIIE BAY ISLANDS -BELIZE AND GKAND
CAYMAN.

On the 29th April 1882 the Druid left Jamaiea
on a cruise to break tlie monotony of swux^iuo-
round a buoy in Port Royal harbour. Our
destination had be-.n left entirely to my
option by an indulgent commodore; so the
ship's head was pointed for the island of
Old Providence, on the Mosquito Coast To
explain the re,«on of this, I must go back to
the year 18r8, when 1 happened to be on the
Isthmus of Panama on my way home from the
South Pacific. At this time Mr Malot, our
consul at Panama, told me a curious story
He said that a native of Nassau had been to

I

m j«

I :

364

A TALE OF TREASURE-TROVE.

him with some old Spanish coins, bearing date
1625, which he said he had discovered in a
cave in the island of Santa Catalina — an ap-
pendage to Old Providence. The man — Curry
by name — also produced some precious stones
in the rough and other curious relics, which
he declared he had obtained at the same time.
His story was, that whilst wooding and water-
ing a small schooner which he commanded, he
saw an iguana, or large lizard, and chased it.
The creature escaped into a crevice in the
rocks : he followed, and found that the place
had been bricked up. On remo^ ing the bricks
he found a cavern, into which he crawled ; and
after his eyes had become accustomed to the
darkness, he found himself in a spacious vault,
with jars on either side and packages lying
about. On opening these, he discovered them
to be filled with doubloons, half and quarter
doubloons, golden crucifixes, and precious stones.
Curry went on to sa)^ that, having filled his
pockets with as much as he cculd carry, he
returned on board, intending to make a second
expedition ; but that, on attempting to land,
he was driven off by the natives. He there

MORGANS HOARD.

365

112 date
ed in a
—an ap-
L — Curry
IS stones
;s, which
me time,
id water-
mded, he
chased it.
e in the
the pLace
;he bricks
vied ; and
ed to the
ons vault,
igcs lying
ered them
id quarter
ous stones.
; filled his

carry, he
:e a second
(T to land,

He there

upon sailed away to Colon to seek further
assistance, and reported the matter to the con*
sul. Mr Malet told me that, however improb-
able the man's statement was, he could not do
otherwise than believe it, after the evidence
he produced in the shape of plunder. This
caused a considerable excitement on the isthmus
at the time ; but, being homeward bound, I
thought no more of the matter. However,
on my arrival in the West Indies the follow-
ing year, I again became interested in the
story — especially as Curry was then living in
Jamaica.

What lent a colour to the yarn was the well-
known fact that Morgan, the celebrated buc-
caneer, had amassed enormous wealth in those
seas — notably at the sacking of Panama, when
he and his gang brought over to Chagres no
fewer than 175 mule-loads of gold, silver, and
jewels. A mutiny taking place, the spoil was
divided. Morgan retired to Jamaica witli his
share — 400,000 ''pieces of eight." He then
quitted the buccaneering trade, retired into
private life, bought a plantation in Jamaica, and
lived on it ; and so thoroughly did he recom-

II

wm

im\

366

HIDDEN TREASURE.

mend himself to piil)li(! favour, that he was
knighted, and appointed governor of tlie
ishind.

What became of the bahmce of the spoil,
history does not record ; but it is supposed to
have been hidden upon the numerous islands
off the Mosquito Coast, of which Catalina is
one.

Several of Morgan's followers were subse-
quently caught and hanged at Port Royal.
One of the most notorious, Captain Kidd, is
said to have offered his weight in gold on
condition that his life would be spared. The
offer was not accepted, and his secret died with
him.

I interviewed Curry on several occasions.
He invariably swore to the same story, pro-
ducing a plan of the island of Santa Catalina :
and he declared that he was ready to go with
me at any time and show me the place ; adding
that I might shoot, hang, or flog him — which I
said I would certainly do — if he failed to carry
out his part of the agreement.

Curry estimated the treasure at a ftibulous
amount ; and there were not a few — myself

HIDDEN TREASURE.

367

lie was
of the

e spoil,
posed to
I islands
talina is

■e subse-
t Royal.
Kidd, is
gold on
•ed. The
difid with

occasions.

tory, pro-

Catalina :

0 go with

, adding

which I

d to carry

fiibulous
— myself

amongst the number — who believed that his
story must have some foundation ; for there
was no disputing the fact that he was possessed,
either by fair means or foul, of considerable
wealth for a man in his position. In conse-
quence of these rumours, several expeditions
were made to Catalina by adventurers of every
degree — amongst whom were doctors, Jew^s,
parsons, and others — but all to no purpose, as
Curry very wisely declined to accompany them,
always declaring he would not go except in a
man-of-war.

Being anxious to test the truth of the story,
I repeatedly urged the commodore to allow me
to visit the island in the Druid ; but was always
flatly refused by two successive commodores, the
terms pirate, filibuster, and buccaneer being
applied to my name. Notwithstanding these
repeated rebuffs, I never lost sight of the mat-
ter, regarding it as an interesting problem to
solve, and a pleasant trip to make ; for I had
long since, by means which it is not necessary
here to describe, ascertained that the story cir-
culated by Curry was an audacious fabrication,
although I could not account for his having

Jilllli'

Hill:

,

3G8

MOliGAN S HEAD.

' :.

the coiiiH in his possession. Up to the hist
Ciu'iy swore he was ready and willing to aecom-
pany me ; but at the last moment he failed, as I
felt certain he would, and so it came about that
we sailed without him.

Three days of pleasant sailing brought us in
sight of Old Providence,
and rounding the southern
point of the island, we
anchored on the lee side of
8anta Catalina, im-

T/

7'

Catalina Island. Morgan's Head.

mediately off a remarkable rock called Morgan's
Head, from the resemblance to the head of a
man. Catalina is connected with Old Provi-
dence by a narrow neck of land, over which the
tide Hows at high water.

There is no doubt that these islands were the

SANTA CATALINA.

369

the last
0 accom-
Liled, as 1
jout that

rht us 111

»'j Head.

d Morgan's

head of a

Okl Provi-

which the

Is were the

headquarters of the buceaneers, and from them
they made expeditions to cut out the Spanish
galleons on their way from Panama and the
Spanish Main. The ruins of a fort were plainly
visible, and several old guns were lying in the
water at the foot of it. Catalina is uninhabited ;
but is partially cultivated by the people living
in Old Providence. The present population of
the island is about 500 : they are white or nearly
so, and are descended from the old buccaneers, as
their names would imply. The principal man's
name is Hawkins, that of a well-known free-
booter. The people all speak English, and are
of English extraction. These islands belong to
the Ignited States of Columbia : a prefect and a
few soldiers live on the neighbouring island of
St Andrews. Tln^ inhabitants of Old Provi-
dence seemed greatly amused at the interest
taken in their island in consequence of Curry's
fiction ; and they showed us some amusing
documents from persons of position in Jamaica,
oftering to share profits with any one discover-
in or the treasure, and fijivino; l)oo;us bonds for
fabulous sums in return. Stirred up by these
reports, the natives prosecuted a search, and one

2 A

.H

%

:^iiiif;.j

370

OATAMNA.

of them actually found a jar full of doul ►loons at
the bottom of a well. I saw the man, but of
course he would not say where he found it or
the amount ; l)ut as he was able to build a house
and purchase a schooner out of it, it must have
been considerable. I have no doul)t plenty more
is stowed away amongst the ruins of the fort.
Needless to say we found none, although a dili-
gent search was made by some of our party.

Both Old Providence and Cataling, are moun-
tainous and partially cultivated : the climate is
healthy, and the trade-wind blows fresh all the
year round. We spent a very pleasant time
bathing and hauling the seine on the sandy
beaches, or smoking and reposing under tlie
shade of the cocoa-nut plantations.

The principal trade is in cattle, cotton, cocoa-
nuts, and tortoise-shell. Many hawksbill tur-
tles, the tortoise of commerce, are caught on the
neighbouring cays, and a smart trade is carried
on with the United States. Altegether these
folk manage to make out a tolerably easy exist-
ence, with the help of an occasional wreck, whicli
an incompetent or a rascally skipper throws iu
their way. Catalina is covered with a villanous

SWAN ISLANDS.

371

louiitt at
, but of
nrl it or
. a house
ust have
uty more
the fort.
f\\ a clih-
3arty.
bre moun-
climate is
;sh all the
Lsaiit time
the saiuly
under tlie

:tou, eocoa-
s^ksbill tur-
ic^ht on the
e is carried
ilicr these
easy exist-
cek, which
■ thi'ows iu
a villanous

plant, called the cockspur-tree, on account of
the terrible spurs or thorns with which it is
armed. Not only is this tree formidable in it-
self, but it is invariably swarming with a vicious
species of ant about three-quarters of an inch
long. If you accidentally touch one of these
trees, tlie ants drop on to you : a hasty retreat
to the water is then desirable. There are a few
pigeons in the islands, and ducks frequent them
in the rainy season.

After three or four days pleasantly si)ent at
these islands, we proceeded nortliwards, and
threading our way through many dangerous
reefs, shaped a course for Swan Islands, which
lie directly in the path of ships going from
Jamaica to Belize. They are so insignificant as
to be scarcely marked on an ordinary atlas, and
are but little known and seldom visited. I
was therefore desirous of exploring them. Run-
ning along the south side of the islands, we
anchored in a sandy bay on the west side, where
we observed a small settlement. We found
three Americans living liere, acting on ])ehalf of
the Pacific Guano Company. The islands are
entirely composed of phosphate of lime, a valu-

!!l!a

ilO li'

372

SWAN ISLANDS.

able guano. It ia as hard hh rock, aud the
colour of cocoa, and has to be crushed l)y
machinery. Thousiuids of tons of phospluites
have been taken oft' the west island in former
years, but operations are suspended, and the
plant — i.e., the tramway, trucks, &c. — has fallen
into decay. The poor fellows thus doomed to
solitary exile devote themselves to agriculture
on a small scale. Cocoa-nuts thrive luxuriantly,
also bananas, melons, pumpkins, and sweet-
potatoes. The delight of these poor folks at
seeing a man-of-war may be imagined. They
could not do too much for us : everything they
possessed was at our disposal, and, in return,
we supplied them with the latest papers, Hour,
tea, tobacco, and suchlike luxuries. There are
no springs on the island, but rain-water is col-
lected in cisterns ; conse(|uently every creature
— bird, beast, or reptile — has to come to these
tanks to drink. There are thousands of blue
bald-pate pigeons, a few semi-wild hogs, and
numerous iguanas on the island. We devoted
a day to the chase, bagging over 400 pigeons,
and some hogs. Logger-head turtle come ashore
at night to lay their eggs. We captured some

MANCHIONEAL.

373

iiul the

hed by
Dspliatcs
1 former
tiiul the
as fallen
)Oined to
i-iculture

uriantly,
[1 sweet-
folka at
a. They
ling they
Lii return,
)ers, flour,
There are
iter is col-
V creature
Q to these
s of blue
hogs, and
3 devoted
0 pigeons,
me ashore
■ired some

of them, but thoy arc coarse eating : the eggs
Jtre excellent.

The east island is as rich in phosphates as the
< (her, and has never been worked ; but there is
no anchorage off it, and hmding is at all times
difficult.

Many kinds of wood abound, some of great
value, sucli as ebony, sandal-wood, and i)lum.
A very poisonous tree, called Mauchioneal, is
common in the woods, and care sliould be taken
to avoid it. The leaves or juice, if rubbed on the
skin of man or beast, causes a blister, and is
not easily cured. It is said to be dangerous to
sleep under the shade of this tree ; and if an
animal be tied to one of this description, and it
should come on to rain, the drippings would
probably kill or seriously injure it. I once saw
a donkey tliat had been almost flayed in this
way.

Our visit was quite a godsend to the poor
islanders ; and when we made sail from the
anchorage, the "stars and stripes" were hoisted
and dipped, and a gun fired, in grateful remem-
lirance of our visit.

From Swan Islands we shaped a course for

If

I"?*,

jl = :|

•IC

!^^ ' '-;

374

THE BAY ISLANDS.

Bonacca, one of the Bay Islands in the Gulf of
Honduras ; and the next mornino; the high land
of that island was in view.

The Bay Islands consist of three — Bonacca,
Routan, and Utilla — Bonacca being the most
easterly one, the others lying to the westward
in the order named. An extensive coral-reef
surrounds the group, and caution is necessary in
approaching it, as the reefs are not all marked
on the chart. Runnino- alono- the outer ede^e of
the reef surrounding Bonacca, we steered through
a gap and dropped our anchor in the clear
smooth water inside.

The island of Bonacca is mountainous and
heavily timbered, but only the low-lying lands
are capable of cultivation. It may be likened
to a round-topped hat, only the brim of which
is fertile. On this part cocoa-nuts, bananas,
mangoes, and pine - apples thrive luxuriantly,
and a considerable trade in fruit is carried on
with New York and New Orleans, several steam-
ers and clipper schooners being engaged in the
trade. The main island is so infested with a
venomous Hy that it is imjDossible to live on it.
The inhabitants are obliged to live entirely on

BONAOC'A.

375

Gulf of
iorli land

Bonacca,
he most
ivestward
coral-reef
;essary iu
11 marked
31* edge of
d tlirougli
the clear

inous and
7mg lands
be likenetl
L of which
, bananas,
[ixuriantly,
carried on
jral steam-
ed in the
1 with a

et

thc outlying cai/tt, or small islets, which are free
from these pests. The natives have built sul)-
stantial wooden houses on the cays, and planted
cocoa-nut trees, so that they present a very
pleasing and picturesque appearance. At the
time of our visit some 546 souls were livinix on
the eai/s. The l)arrier-reef unites all these cays

I live on it.
entirely on

Sheen Cay, Bonacca Island,

together, forming a perfect anchorage inside. I
had intended remaining only twenty-four hours
at Bonacca ; but the simple natives 1)egged so
hard for us to stay over Sunday, that I decided
to remain, and thus give them the rare oppor-
tunity of attending divine service on board an
English man-of-war. These people are all British

pin

i

376

THE PRINCESS OF BONACCA.

subjects, and speak nothing but English. I had
no cause to regret acceding to their request, for
we enjoyed our stay immensely. The beautiful
sandy l)ays and shady cocoa-nut groves were a
source of endless pleasure. We bathed, gathered
shells, hauled the seine, and revelled in cocoa-
nuts, mangoes, and pine-apples to our hearts'
content ; and in the quiet evenings the girls
sang and played to us with simple taste and
pathos — "God save the Queen" and "Home,
sweet home" being among the most poj)ular
airs. One very pretty brunette, named Evan-
geline, the daughter of a worthy old Scotch-
man, was decidedly the belle. I crowned her
with a wreath of pretty pink shells, and chris-
tened her the Princess of Bonacca.

On Sunday the ship w^as thronged, and given
up entirely to the people. Besides our usual
Sunday service, we had seven weddings, and
no less than twenty-four christenings, so our
chaplain had a busy time. The bal)ies were
lively, and the consumption of sweet biscuits
and preserved fruits enormous. Every one
was anxious to be married under the British
Hag ; and I believe if we had prolonged our stay.

h. I had
[[uest, for
beautiful
es were a
, gatliered
in cocoa-
ur hearts'
the girls
taste and
I " Home,
it popular
aed Evan-
Id Scotch-
owned her
and chris-

and given
our usual
dings, and
gs, so our
al)ies were
et biscuits
ivery one
le British
d our stay,

THE BAY ISLANDS.

377

there would not luive remained a single person
on the island. With universal lamentations we
bade adieu to this lovely island and its simple
inhabitants, and bore away for Koutnu, and
after narrowly escaping a reef not marked upon
our charts, anchored there the same evening.
Before going further, it will be necessary for me
to explain the situation of the inhabitants of
these islands.

The Bay Islands originally belonged to Great
Britain, and were populated by British subjects
emigrating from Jamaica and Grand Cayman.
In the year 1859 they were ceded to the Re-
public of Honduras. The immediate cause of
this was the proposed railway from Port Cortes
on the Atlantic coast, to Fonseca Bay on the
Pacific. This project was never carried out.
By the terms of the treaty the Government of
Honduras guaranteed *' that the inhabitants of
the said islands should not be disturbed in the
enjoyment of any property which they may
have acquired therein, and should retain perfect
freedom of religious belief and worship, public
and private," &c., ke. I will now leave it to the
reader to judge whether these terms have 1)een
fulfilled.

n\'

Mkn

378

THE BAY ISLANDS.

•?' 1

After twenty-five years of misrule, these
unfortunate islanders are in a most pitiable
plight ; taxed to such a preposterous extent
that it is scarcely possible for them to exist ;
their religion interfered with, inasmuch as they
are not allowed to marry unless they go through
a civil contract, thus becoming Honduranian
su])jects ; their lands taken from them without
a shadow of reason or justice ; and if they com-
phiin, they are thrown into prison to await their
trial, or are told to carry their complaints to
H.B.M. consul at Truxillo, a seaport on the
mainland. This functionary, a Jamaica Jew of
Portuguese extraction, is married to a woman of
the country, and is, moreover, in partnership
with the President in business. It is not likely
that the natives will get any redress from that
quarter.

Failing this, they are told to go to Comayagua,
the capital of the State, and lay their grievances
there — an utter impossibility for an unfortunate
neoiro, who does not even understand the Ian-
guage of the country.

Should their case be referred to H.M. Minister
at Guatemala, a city far removed from the At-

THVJR GRIEVANCES.

379

3, these
pitiable
, extent
o exist ;
. as they
through
luraiiiaii
without
ley com-
'ait their
hiiuts to
: on the
;a Jew of
^^oman of
rtnership
lot likely
I'om that

mayagua,

rievances

fortunate

the lan-

iNIinister
the At-

lantic coast, it is referred l)ack to the consul at
Truxillo. In despair of getting any redress,
these unfortunate people eagerly swarm on
hoard a man-of-war, feeling sure of a sympa-
thetic hearing from the captain.

But the captains of H.M. ships are ordered
not to listen to their complaints. The poor
folk, failing to get justice from any cpiarter, at
last petitioned Mr Baiiee, our late Governor of
British Honduras, for leave to settle once more
on British soil.

Mr Barlee warmly espoused their cause, and
arrangements were made for the purchase of
land in the immediate neighbourhood of Belize ;
and an extensive exodus has already taken place
from the islands to British Honduras. This
appears to be the only solution of a difhcult
question ; but it is hard for these people, who
have raised the Bay Islands to their present
prosperous state, to be driven from their homes,
and told to begin life anew — especially as no
compensation is given them for the property
they leave behind. Lest I may be accused of
exaggerating the facts, I may mention that, in
conversation with the Governor of British Hon-

380

ROUTAN.

duras on this subject, his Excellency remarked
to me, " In no part of her Majesty's dominions
are British subjects so shamefully ill-treated as
are the Bay Islanders." It is idle to argue that
they ought to have migrated at the time the
islands were ceded, and that not having done
so, they must take the consequences. This is
the line taken by cold-blooded politicians. How
could they have done so without ruin to them-
selves and their families ?

As well might landed proprietors in this coun-
try be told to clear out, and seek a living else-
where, leaving their property behind them, and
receiving no compensation for it. In the ex-
tremely improbal)le event of this country being
annexed by a foreign Power, they would have
to do this, or become subjects of the conquerors !

Routan (pronounced liuatcm) is even more
fertile than Bonacca, and the venomous flies
which infest the latter do not exist here. The
island is well populated, and is mostly under
cultivation. All kinds of tropical fruits are to
be found in profusion : the land is also suitable
for coffee, cocoa, and tobacco, but the inhabit-

KOUTAN.

381

omarkecl
)miiiions
'eatcd as
giie that
:inie the
ng done
This is
s. How
to them-

liis conn-
ing clse-
icm, and
the ex-
ry being
idd have
querors !

en more

ous flies

re. The

y under

s are to

suitable

inhabit-

ants being ground down by over-taxation, have
no sj^irit left, and are only longing for the time
when they can leave the island. Out of a
population of over 5000, nine-tenths are British
subjects, speaking only English — at least they
consider themselves British subjects. The
question seems to be. Does long residence in
a foreign State make them subjects of that
State ; and if so, how long ?

Some of the old inhabitants came to see me with
tears in their eyes, bringing me the title-deeds
to their land, signed, as they proudly showed,
by her most gracious Majesty Queen Victoria.
They stood on the quarter-deck, with their hats
off", begging me to intercede for them, and ask-
ing that their lands might not be taken away.

" They were loyal subjects of her Majesty,"
they said; "and was not her signature a guar-
antee that they should not be molested 1 "

It was a humiliatino; thino- to be obliored to
confess that, although I sympathised deeply with
them, I feared nothing could be done — that I
felt sure her Majesty would feel for them if she
knew the circumstances ; but that as the island
no longer belonged to her, she was powerless in

* :■ ' I

I i'\''.

m

382

INJUSTICE TO THE NATIVES.

the matter, and tliat my advice was to leave
the country and place themselves once more
under British protection. I told them I was
going direct to Belize, and would give any of
them a passage with pleasure, and would put
their case before Mr Barlee, the Governor — and
with this poor consolation they had to be con-
tent; l^ut they all seemed grateful for a few
kindly words and a little sympathy.

One poor old wlute-headed negro sat on the
steps of the ladder leading from the gangway
to the cpiarter-deck during our morning service,
taking particular notice of the prayers, and
huml)ly bowing his head at the conclusion. I
sent for him and asked him wliat lie wanted. Ho
told me that twelve years ago his land had been
taken away from him without cause, and he was
left to starve. If the British Parliament only
knew it, he would lia^e justice, he exclaimed.
I told the poor old fellow that it all happened
so long ago, I feared the British Parliament
could not help him even if they were inclined ;
and I advised him not to trust to that, but to
endeavour to reconcile himself to his loss, and
end his days in peace. I fear that the only land

Ol'PRESSION.

383

o leave
c more
L I was
any of
iild put
or — and
l)c con-
ir a few

,t on the
tang way

service,
ers, and
ision. I
ted. He
had l)ccn
A he was
ent only
scclaimed.

appened
irliament

inclined ;

b, but to
oss, and
Duly land

i!

he will ever get out of those grasping wretches
is six feet to lay his poor old bones in ; and it
will be a higher appeal than the British Parlia-
ment who will decide on the merits on his case :
it is not likely lie will have to wait long, cither,
for the verdict.

The Governor of Routan, Dobrucho Hernan-
dez, a Honduranian Indian, rules these unfortu-
nate people with a rod of iron, untempered with
either justice, mercy, or common -sense. He
resides in the town witli a few other Government
officials, and six officers and thirty soldiers, who
form the garrison.

I waited on this individual to endeavour to
ameliorate the condition of the negroes ; but it
is not likely anything will be done to improve
their position.

It is true that the tax has been taken off tlic
principal articles of food — such as flour, pork,
and rice — simply because the poor people were
unable to pay it, and were reduced to the verge
of starvation.

The export tax on fruit has also been with-
drawn ; but other items, such as sugar, coffee,
salt, soap, articles of clothing, and agricultural

III

Hi

III

384

BELIZE.

implements, are still cliaroTMl from 50 to 100 per
cent. In this way GO, 000 dollars are annually
raised, not one cent of which is spent U})on the
islands, or for the henefit of the inhabitants. 1
left Routan with bitter shame and regret — re-
gret that I was unable to be of the slightest
use to these unhappy folk, and ashamed that
such beautiful islands should have been given
up to their present possessors. A fair breeze
carried us across to Belize in twenty-four hours.

I have already in a former chapter given a
short description of Belize, so I have but few
remarks to make on our present visit. I was
told that some wonderful eaves were to be seen
about twenty miles to the southward, in which
panthers were to be found, and that eyeless fish
existed in a river in the caves ; also, that the
land in that neighbourhood was wonderfully
rich, and suited for emigrants : so I made an
expedition to the place, and having been
nearly capsized on the bar at the entrance to
the Manati river, found the spot.

The caves were a fraud, the panthers were
not at home, and the river with the eyeless fish

BURIAL DIFFICULTIES.

385

100 per
iimially
[)Oii the
iiit.s. I
ret — re-
iliglitest
iccl tluat
in given
r breeze
ir liours.

given a
but few
. I was

0 be seen
in which
-■eless fish
, that the
aiderfully

1 made an
ns: been
trance to

icrs were
uless fish

(lid not exist ; but the trip was most enjoyable,
and gave one tlie opportunity of seeing some
fine country and beautiful scenery, combined
with an agreeable climate. In this region most
excellent land can be obtained at one dollar an
acre ; the soil is capable of producing sugar,
tobacco, cocoa, and fruit of all kinds. Labour
is scarce, and a labourer can earn six shillings
a-day ; consequently, for people of a humble
class, this part of the country presents a favour-
able field for emigration. It is here that the
unfortunate Bay Islanders may find a home.

A curious difticulty has lately arisen, owing
to the cemeteries being overcrowded, and the
impossibility of finding more land near Belize
in which to bury the dead. Water is reached
at a depth of two feet, so that a cofiin has to be
ballasted with stones to keep it down, and earth
brought from a distance to cover it. To meet
this difiiculty the Governor caused vaults to be
built above-ground ; but the negro population,
especially the women, opposed the measure with
great bitterness, threatening to l)urn down the
town if the obnoxious order w\as not recalled.
Occasional scares take place in Belize, owing to

2 B

III

386

TURTLE TRADE.

m

the })rosenco of hostile bands of Iiuliuns in the
interioi" ; but it is not considered probable t hat
they will give trouble ; and even if they do, 1
have no doubt the black troops will be equal to
the occasion.

On our passage ba(;k to Jamaica, we touched
at the Grand Cayman island, about which there
is not very much to relate.

The island contains over 3000 inhabitants,
who are mostly engaged in agriculture and the
turtle trade. The turtle are brought from the
Mosquito Coast, and transhipped to Jamaica.
What soil there is on the island is of good
quality, and produces fine crops of yams, cocoa
(a vegetable somewhat resembling potato), In-
dian corn, baiumas, pumpkins, plantains, melons,
papaw, oranges, and limes. There is good pas-
turage for cattle, and over 1000 head are usually
kept.

The island is healthy, and there is no resident
doctor. The people say they get on very well
without either doctors or lawyers ; and I don't
suppose a doctor would make a living. Never-
theless, considering the number of residents, one

BACK TO JAMAICA.

387

5 in the
lie that
jy do, 1
jqiuil to

touched
3h there

ibitants,
and the
rom the
Jamaica,
of good
IS, cocoa
ito), In-
, melons,
;ood pas-
e usually

resident
rcYj well
I don't
Never-
mts, one

would suppose a doctor was needed. l\).ssihly
an individual coml»ining the douldc duties of
doctor and commissioner would be desirable.
Some very fjiir craft are built at George Town,
the capital, the woods of the country being used
in their construction.

Very beautiful pink pearls are occasionally
found in the conch- shells on the coast. These
pearls are formed in the same manner as the
oyster-pearl : they are of an oblong shape, and
of a lovely rose colour. The price varies from
five to ten dollars ; but some specimens are
worth a great deal more.

From Grand Cayman we returned to Jamaica,
and anchored in the beautiful harbour of Oclio
Rios (eight rivers). Fair winds and fine weather,
with a perfect temperature, had })ec'i our lot
wherever we went ; and if ever there was ro-
mance in connection with the sea, we certainly
enjoyed it.

388

I: ■ '«! ^

it' -1

'fi:!^

■$

CHAPTER XVII.

SECOND VISIT TO HAITI, AND CONCLUSION.

We liad hardly swung round our buoy in Port
Royal harbour a dozen times, or had time for
more than a flying visit to our friends in the
country, before alarming telegrams came from
Mr Hunt, our acting consul-general at Port au
Prince, detailino; certain outrao;es which had
been perpetrated upon foreigners by the Hai-
tien authorities. The presence of a man-of-war
was urgently needed ; so the Druid was ordered
to proceed immediately to Haiti to put things
straight.

Our first visit was to Miragoane, a small port
on the west coast of Haiti, where a disturbance
had taken place. I found things a good deal
"mixed" here. Mr Ahrendts, a German sub-

TROUBLE IN HAITI. jgg

jeet b.rt vice-consul for Great Britain, had been
iMulted, and thrown into prison. Mr Hadlei.],
an American .subject, had been .served the same'
way. Mr Bain, a Scotchman in business in
i-ort au Prince, was also in prison at that
place, awaiting his trial on frivolous charges.
It IS a curious fact that, in whatever part of
the world I have been in, I have always found
a German, a Yankee, .and a Scotchman, .en-
er.ally doing well. Here they were all repre-
sented; but they were in a tight place now

Havmg emb.arkcd Messrs Ahrendts and Had-
leigh at Miragoane, we proceeded to Port au
Prmce, and communicated with Mr Hunt after
saluting the Hatticn ting with twenty-one 'gxms
We found things a good deal more " mixed "
lere: the Haiticn authorities seemed to have
been perfectly impartial in the distribution of
then- fixvours. A French gentleman had been
imprisoned illegally; two English gentlemen
staymg with our consul, were unable to leave the
house for fear of being seized and thrown into
pnson for some imaginary offence. The consul's
Louse was watched by hired ruffians; ladies and
gentlemen were insulted in the streets; and

390

SATISFACTION DEMANDF.D.

ii

■:ii,i'

J-

British subjects imprisoned without cause. In
fact, the Haitien authorities had been having
a high time of it in the absence of an English
man-of-war. Mr Hunt assured me that he
couhi obtain no redress or satisfaction : his
earnest protestations were treated with con-
tempt. He therefore pkxced the matter in my
hands, to take what steps I thought proper.

There was no time to be lost. The poor
Scotchman had been in prison three weeks,
and three weeks in a Haitien jail is no joke,
with the thermometer at 120% bad food, and
most filthy quarters. The Haitiens are a very
polite nation, and their letters are invariably
couched in the most courteous terms — in
fact, they are adepts at the art of evasion.
Under the circumstances, I was constrained
to write very firmly, but politely, to his
Excellency the President of the Kepublic,
demanding the immediate release of Mr Bain,
the Scotch gentleman, and that he be com-
pensated for his incarceration of three weeks
at the rate of 100 dollars (£20) per day
for the whole time ; also, that Mr Ahrendts,
our vice-consul, who had been in prison five

NEGOTIATIONS.

S91

luse. In
1 having
L English

that he
Lon : his
ith con-
31' in my
)por.

'he poor
i weeks,
no joke,
)od, and
3 a very
variably
nis — in
evasion,
strained

to his
epublic,
[r Bain,
)e com-
' weeks
)er day
irendts,
on five

days, be awarded lOOO .ollars; and Mr Had-
leigh, 500 dollar , ..,at the British flag be
saluted, and an apology be tendered for" the
insnlt offered to it in the person of Mr Ahrendts;
that the French gentleman be immediately re-
leased, and an apology tendered, no money
compensation being desired in this case. Also,
that the officials who committed these out'
rages should be dismissed from their posts,
and that the nuisances complained of by H m'
consul, in respect to the precincts of his house
bemg mvaded by a lawless rabble, should im-
mediately cease. These communications, which
necessarily occupied some little time, and were
spread over several letters, produced evasive
replies, in order to gain time. I was ordered
to use no force, but only persuasive measures,
so no apparent preparation was visible on board
the Druid. Her broadside was, however, withir
convenient range of the principal fort ; and thc^
first lieutenant was detailed to cut out a Hai-
tien man-of-war, by first breaking her cable
with gun-cotton, and then towing her out
under the guns of the Druid.

Fortunately diplomacy succeeded ; and after

I ■ i

392

AGREEMENT.

fi'

an interchange of numerous despatches, the
Haitien authorities agreed to these terms, with
the exception of saluting the British flag on the
Champs de Mars. This they begged to be ex-
cused from doing, as, they said, a rising of the
people, and massacre of the whites, would be
the probable result, together with the over-
throw of the President. As our object was not
to humilj-ite the nation, but to obtain satisfac-
tion for the insults offered, I gladly waived this
point, and the matter was nt an end.

I paid an official visit to his Excellency the
President, which was returned; and in forty-
eight hours from the time the Druid anchored in
the roads, the following results were obtained : —

1. An apology tendered for insults offered to
the British flag, and dismissal of the Juge de
Paix at Miragoane.

2. One thousand dollars paid to Mr Ahrendts,
and five hundred to Mr Hadleigh.

3. Mr Bain, British subject, released from
prison, and j^aid two thousand dollars' compen-
sation.

4. A French subject released from prison.

5. British subjects wrongfully imprisoned

.ulii

lies, the
tns, with
g on the

0 be ex-
g of the
ould be
le over-
was not
satisfac-
ved this

incy the

1 forty-
lored in
ined : —
fered to
^uge de

irendts,

:1 from
Dmpen-

on.
risoned

OEDEHED TO BARBADOES. 393

and beaten at San Marks, released, and officials
punished ; compensation to be awarded.

6. Annoyance to Mr Hunt and his family
removed.

7. Protection to British subjects and prop-
erty guaranteed.

Before leaving Port au Prmce, the foreign
consuls and chcvrgh d'afiicires expressed to me
then- great satisfaction at the results obtained
by the visit of H.MS. Druid, and intimated
their intention of making the same known to
their respective Governments. Having seen
the cash paid over the counter of the Bi'itish
consulate, and said good-bye to our friends, we
returned to Jamaica.

On our arrival we learnt, to our intense dis-
gust, that we were to proceed to Barbadoes.

Only those who have been away from home
for three years and a half can appreciate our
feelings on receipt of this news. Our sjdrits
l)uoyed up with the prospect of returning home'
at no distant period, now sank to zero.

We bade a sorrowful farewell to our friends,
and prepared for our departure, when, on the
Cth July, the joyful intelligence was received

1

■f. 'I!,.

ill'!

■' , il'

394

ENGLAND AGAIN.

that we were to return to EngLand, and on tue
9th we sailed. A quick and pleasant passage
took us to Bermuda, and on the 20th July we
left it for the last time.

Our usual good fortune attended us across
the Atlantic ; and exactly one month after leav-
ing Port Royal we sighted the shores of Old
England.

After touching at Plymouth, we proceeded to
Sheerness to pay ofi" ; and we had the gratifica-
tion, so dear to a naval officer, of receiving the
high approval of the Commander-in-Chief for
the creditable state of the ship, together with
a flattering letter from their lordships on pay-
ing off.

Appended is a list of ports touched at by the
Druid during her commission, with the date of
arrival and departure.

LIST OF PORTS.

395

1879.

Place.

Commissioned at Sheerness

Plymouth .

Madeira .

Hermudii .

Halifax, N.S. .

St John's, Newfoundland

Catalina .

Harl)our Grace .

St John's .

Trepassey .

St Mary's .

Salmonier .

Colinet

Great St Lawrence

Harbour ]3riton

East Bay, Despair Bay

North Bay, Despair liay

Hare Bay .

Rencontre ,

La Poile .

Port-au- Basque.

St George's

Birchey Cove .

Goose Bay

York Harbour .

Bonne Bay

Port Saunders, Hawke's P>av

La Clioix ...

Forteau .

Croijue

Paquet

St Jolm's .

Gready

Rigolet

Turner's Cove .

Cartwright

St John's .

La Poile .

St George's

Birchey Cove .

York Harbour .

Birchey Cove .

La Poile .

Salmonier.

St John's .

Halifax, N.S. .

Bermuda ,

Port Royal

Arrival. Departure.

Feb. 18

Mar. 14

M 25

April 26

May 12

June

II

M

II

II

II

II
II
II
II

July
II
II
II
II
II
II
11

An

ti
II
II
II

Se])t,
11 2
I. 3
4
9
21
24
27
1
4
.- 17
I. 18
II 20
M 28
Nov. 18
Dec. 13

19
.5
7
8
13
16
17
23
25
26
27
2

5
6
7

11

13

15

18
19
21
24
27
27

4

6

9

1

Oct.

Mar.

Jlay

II
June

II

II

II

July

12
18
29
7
15
5
7
8
13
16
17
23
24
26
27
2

6

7

11

12

15

18

19

21

24

27

27

4

6

6

29

2

II 3
4
II 6
II 19
.1 23
m25, 26
Oct. 1
4
16
17
19
23
13
4

Aug.

Sept.

II
II
•I

Nov.
Dec.

i .

396

LIST OF PORTS TOUCHED AT

1880.

it; > !

Place.

Arrival.

Dei)arture.

Port Royal

Jan.

" 7

Port Antonio .

Jan.

8

II

21

Port Royal

II

21

II

26

Ht'lize ....

II

30

Feb.

16

Havana ....

Feb.

19

II

23

Nuevitiw .

II

•25

II

26

(tuautaiianio

II

28

II

29

Port Royal

Mar.

1

Mar.

15

("artliiiifcna

II

18

II

26

Port iVntonio

April

10

April

13

Port Koyal

II

14

II

23

jicrnuiila ....

II

30

May

7

St John's ....

May

15

Juno

20

Harbour Grace .

June

20

II

22

Trinity ....

II

22

11

25

Gooso Bay .

II

26

II

28

Clodc Sound

II

28

II

29

Newman's Sound

II

29

II

30

Middle Arm, Hloody Bay

II

30

July

1

FrL'slnvatcr Bay

July

1

II

2

Grcensi)ond

II

2

II

3

Scldom-comc-bj'

II

3

II

5

Gander River .

II

5

II

6

Twill inflate

It

• 6

II

8

Hali'.s l)ay, Salmon River

II

8

II

12

Hall's Bay, Indian River

II

12

II

14

Paquet

II

14

II

15

Rougo

11

15

II

16

Cro([ue

II

16

II

20

Hare Bay .

11

20

II

21

St Anthony

II

21

II

24

Kirpou

II

24

II

25

Forteau

11

25

II

29

Loup Bay .

II

29

II

29

St liarbe's

II

29

II

30

Hawke's Bay

II

30

Aug.

2

Boniui Bay

Aug.

2

II

7

Bay of Islands .

II

7

II

10

La Poile .

II

11

II

13

Little River

It

13

II

14

Hare Bay .

M

14

II

15

Sahnonier

II

16

II

19

Great Island

II

20

,,

20

St John's .

II

21

II

22

BY THE DRUID.

397

Departure.

Jan.

' 7

II

21

II

26

Feb.

16

II

23

II

26

II

29

Mur.

15

M

26

Apiil 13 1

11

23

Jfiiy

7

Juno

20

II

22

II

25

II

28

II

29

II

30

July

1

II

2

II

3

II

5

II

6

II

8

II

12

II

14

II

15

II

16

II

20

II

21

II

24

II

25

II

29

II

29

II

30

Vu^.

2

II

7

II

10

II

13

II

14

II

15

II

19

I'

20

It

22

Bay Bulls .
(trout Isliiiul
St John's .
Orent Island
St John's .
Great Islam!
St Johu's .
Great Island
Bay Bulla .
St John's .
Trepassey .
St Mary's .
(treat St Lawrence
St Pierre .
Sliip Cove.
Hare Bay .
AVhite Bear P.ay
Bay of Islands
Vork Harbour
Lark Harliour
Bay of Islands
Sydney
St John's .
Bermuda .
Port Koyal

Port Royal

I'ort an Prince

San Marks

Gonaives .

Cajie Haytien

Porto Plata

Saniaiiii

San Domingo
Jaemel
Aux (^ayes
Port Royal
Montcgo Hay .
Port Royal
Port Royal
Havana .
Bermuda .
Halifax, N.S. .
St Pierre .

1881.

II

23

II

24

II

29

II

29

Sept

. 7

II

7

II

10

II

10

II

10

II

12

II

14

II

15

II

17

II

18

II

21

II

23

II

27

Oct.

2

II

9

II

11

II

14

II

18

Nov.

6

Dec.

15

Se])t,

II

II

Oct.

Dec.

23
23

29
29
7
7
10
10
10
12
14
15
17
18
21
23
25
2

9
11
13
15
29

4

Jan,

Jan.

7

II

11

II

11

II

1:^

II

12

II

14

II

15

II

17

II

18

II

19

II

20

II

21

II

23

II

24

II

26

II

27

II

28

II

29

II

30

Feb.

»)

Feb.

3

M

8

II

9

tf

?8

Mar.

4

Mar.

21

M

27

II

29

Ai.ril

5

April

14

II

18

II

21

II

23

II

25

i!

398

LIST OF PORTS TOUCHKD AT

I

i

:ili

Place.

Arrival.

Departure.

Hiubour Uriton ....

April

25

April

26

St Jii(|Uoa .

II

20

II

27

nclloriuii .

II

27

II

27

liOiif^ Harbour .

II

27

II

30

Ticklo Hcach .

II

30

II

30

IJoUonim .

II

30

May

2

Groat St Luwreuco

May

2

II

3

Burin

II

3

II

4

Placeutia .

II

4

II

6

Halinoiiier.

II

6

II

14

St Mary's .

II

14

II

15

Tro las.sey .

II

15

II

16

St John's .

II

16

June

2

Harbour (Jraco .

June

2

II

6

Heart's Content

II

6

II

7

Smith's Sound .

II

7

II

9

Trinity .

M

9

II

10

Twillinf^ato

M

11

II

13

Burnt Ann, Ex[>loit Bay .

II

13

II

16

lVt(U-'s Arm, Exploit i5ay .

II

16

II

17

Hail's Buy

II

17

II

22

Little Bay

II

22

II

24

Robert's Arm .

II

24

II

27

Little Bay

II

27

ir

27

AHildle Arm, Green Bay .

II

27

II

28

l'a([uot ....

II

28

M

29

Crt»([ue ....

II

29

July

1

Hare I5ay ....

July

1

II

3

St Anthony

M

3

II

4

Pistolet ....

II

4

II

5

Bonne Bay

II

6

II

8

Port Saunders .

II

8

II

11

Hawke's Bay

It

11

II

12

St George's

II

13

II

15

Cod Roy .

II

15

II

17

Cod Roy ....

II

18

II

19

Port-au- Basque.

II

19

II

21

Sydney ....

II

21

II

25

Long Harbour, Fortune Bay

II

27

Aug.

3

Storey Harbour, Fortune Bay

Aug,

3

II

5

Harbour Briton

II

5

II

8

Halifax

II

11

II

17

Port-au-Basque

II

20

„

24

La Poile .

II

24

II

26

Little River

II

26

II

27

Hare Bay .

II

27

II

28

Bay du Nord .

II

28

Sept.

3 1

«Y THE DRUID.

Departure.

Apn

1 26

II

27

II

27

II

30

II

30

May

2

II

8

M

4

11

6

II

14

II

16

II

18

June

2

11

6

II

7

M

9

II

10

II

13

II

16

II

17

II

22

II

24

11

27

II

27

II

28

'1

29

July

1

II

3

11

4

II

5

II

8

II

11

II

12

II

15

II

17

II

19

II

21

II

25

Au^.

3

II

5

II

8

II

17

II

24

II

26

II

27

II

28

k'pt.

3

399

Ship Cove .
>St .l()lin'.s .
(irci'iiHiminl
Kolti'it H Ann
Hiiil's Iky
Koboit's Arm
Kirpoa
St Antlioiiv

St joiui's :

Halifax .
Heninidii .
Port Iloyul

Port Royal
Havana .

Matanzas .

Cay Sal .

Ci'y Anguilhi
Nipd
I'lagua
Port Antonio
Port Royal
Lucea
Poit Royal'
Port Antonio
Port Royal
Inagua
Port Royal
01(1 Providence
Swan Islands
Ponacca .
Routan
Pdize

Orand Cayman

Montego Bay

Ocho Rios .

Port Royal

Miragoiine

Port au Prince

Port Roya

Herinuda .

Plymouth .

Sheerness .

Place.

1882.

Arrival. Departure.

Sept.

II
II

II
Oct.

II
II
II
II

Nov.
Dec.

3
6
27
30
10
12
16

n

19

28

8

24

Jan

. 12

II

n

II

20

II

21

II

24

II

28

Fcl).

1

"

()'

Jliir.

3

II

7

II

28

Apri

1 3

II

14

II

19

May

3

II

8

II

11

ir

15

II

17

II

29

June

1

II

2

II

8

II

21

II

22

July

1

rt

17

Aug.

10

Sept.

II
Oct.

Nov.
Dec.

6
2(i
28
10
12
12
17
17
22
1
14

Jan.

M
II
II

Feb.
II
Alar.

II
April

17
19
21
21
26
30
6

27
6

27
3

13

18

13

29
6
10
15
16
25
30
1
7
19
22
29
9

II 20
Aug. 11

May

II
II
June

July

PRINTED BY WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND RONS.

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