IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 11.25 >^ 1^ 12.2 ^ 1^ 112.0 »- 11 1.4 1.6 (?>. <% vl '/ '^ 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WIST MAIN STRUT WHSTH.N.Y. MSIO (716)i7»-4J03 'j%, 4^ *\ ^ ^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Cnnadian Institute for Historical Microraproductions Inatitut Canadian da microraproductions historiquas 1980 T«chnical and Bibliographic Notaa/Notas tachniquaa at bibliographiquaa Thi tot Tha InatKuta haa attamptad to obtain tha baat original copy avaiiabia for filming. Faaturaa of thia copy which may ba bibiiographically uniqua, which may altar any of tha imagaa in tha raproduction. or which may aignlf icantly changa tlia uauiil mathod of filming, ara chackad balow. 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Tous laa autras axamplairas originaux aont filmto an commandant par la pramiAra paga qui comporta una amprainta d'impraaaion ou d'illustration at •n tarminant par la darnlAra paga qui comporta una talla amprainta. Un das symbolas suivants apparattra sur la darnlAra image da cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole — »» signifie "A 8UIVRE", le eymbole ▼ signifie "FIN". Les csrtes, plenches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre filmAs A dee teux de rAduction diff Arents. Lorsque le document est trop grond pour Atre reproduit en un seul clichA, 11 est f limA A psrtir de I'angia supArieur gajcha, de geuche A droite. et de heut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'imeges nAcessaire. Les disgrammae suivants illustrent la mAthoda. rrata o lialure. iA □ 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 u, 1 > |4i I - I, .^1 > ;' I I f- H ^^^^^HH K < ^^^^^^^^1 0. HPHVVVBi b- ■ ' , ■*-' 00 00 ■- '■''. ^ '. ' «".'■, '■'. '.- *■.■■■ , ■>» r J^^''i .J!n \u GEOLOGICAL AND NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY OF CANADA. ALPRBD R. 0. SBLWYN, C.M.G., LL.D., P.R.S., Dimctob. REPORT ON AN EXPLORATION IN THE YUKON DISTRICT, N.W.T., AND ADJACENT NORTHERN PORTION OP BRITISH COLUMBIA. 1887. BY GEORGE M. DAWSON, D.S., F.G.S. .. fi \X^r^i, <} m ii-j. PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY OF PARLIAMENT. MONTREAL: DAWSON BROTHERS. 1888. -^ I ^- ti li i To Alfred R. C. Sblwtn, C.M.G.,^ LL.D., F.R.S, Director of (he Geological and Natural Iligtory Survey of Canada. Sir — I beg to present herewith a report on a portion of the Yukon District, N.W.T., and adjacent northern part of the Province of British Columbia. The exploration upon which this report is based was carried out as part of the work of the Yukon Expedition, of which I had the honour to be placed in charge. The further explorations and surveys earned out by Messi-s. R. G. McConnell and W. Ogilvie will form the subject of separate reports. It may be explained that the greater part of the present report was completed in June last, but that having been engaged in field work during the summer, it was impossible to send the manuscript to the printer at that time. I have the^honour to be, sir, Your obedient sei*vant, GEORGE M. DAWSON. Ottawa, Dec. 1, 1888. f . ^ ;i,; I Note.— The bearings throughout this report ai'e given with refer- ence to the true meridian, unless otherwise specially noted. i / i t-^i jfer- \, mm Gf OLOGICAia NATURAL HISTORY SU Alfred H.C.8elwvn,< 1.0..I.L|)..KK. ATURAL HISTORY SURVEY OF CANADA Selwvn,* I.G.,I.JJ)..KH.8.Dlrpclor. N,. Te ) \ Jj^ INDEX MaXP or TH£ YUKON DISTRICT N,W.T THE NORTHERN PO RTION OF BRITISH COLUMBIA AND ADJACENT h EGIONS TO ACCOMPANY Ri'PORZ OF GEORGE M. DAW^|Hb.,F.G.S.,&c. 18 8 SCALE OF 100 90 80 70 60 SO 40 SO aO 10 0 I ■ I ■ ' ■ ' ■ I ■ ' ■ ' ■ I ■ I ■ ■ ■ ' jra(«.— TM» mat i* in part a rett q/' (kcTWkoM-iraeftfntt* rtgion, pr«\ ^ t>m Jlrtf ratf M«|{(iM, Drawn ArrhMa-Liihtfrt^ijrLMRitLmi. B..Afft.Sc. ■•• »«*«•« aoo '•^-< -ft /» , ApproxiiDate Nortb PiniM MurrayafM. Approximate Nort Larix Amerieana. Approximate Inlaiu LMgitud* M^ frani GrMiawii o* ■ ApproxiiDate Northern Limita of Pinut Murrayana. '^ •Approximate North- Weitem UmUi of Larix Atnerieana. ■ Approximate Inland Limit of Coast Floea. Lw^tud* Mbst frrni GMCbwiak. 1' II REPORT ON AN EXPLORATION IN THE YUKON DISTRICT, KW.T., AND ADJACENT NORTHERN PORTION OF BRITISH COLUMBIA, nr GEORGE M. DAWSON, D.S., F.G.k, * ■ U Introductory. The Yukon expedition, to which the present report relates, wasvakon undertaken for the purpose of gaining information on the vast and '***^'* *"* hithjQrto almost anknow n tract of country which forms the extreme north-westerly portion of the North-west Territory. This tract is bounded 40 the south by the northern line of the Province of British Columbia (Lat. 60^*), to the west by the eastern line of the United- States territory of Alaska, to the east by the Rocky Mountain Ranges and 136thi meridian, and to the north by the Arctic Ocean. The region Takon diatriot. thus generally defined is referred to as the Yukon district, this name being renjlered appropriate from the fact that the greater part of its area lies xi^ithin the drainage-basin of the river of that name. The Yukon district, as abovedefined,hasatotal area of approximately xreaof Takon 1 192,000 square miles, of which, according to the most recent informa- *"*""'*• ;tion, 150,^68 squai'e miles is included in the watorahed of the Yukon. i'The supei'ficial extent of the district may perhaps best be realized ^hen it ii^, stated that it is nearly equal to that of France, greater than the United Kingdom by 71,100 square miles, ten times the area of the province I0T Nova Scotia, or nearly three times that of the New Eng- land Stattfl. It is unnecessary to add that the present report must be considarep'^iierely as a first contribution to our knowledge of this wide ' country. ^ 'Jm I" : 1 . ! i 6b ^KON PI8TBICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. PatpoM of Ibe Bzpedition. Oiganiiation. Work by Mr. Ogilvie. The immediate necessity for the exploratory and surveying work undertaken by the expedition, arose from the fact that somewhat im- portant developments of placer gold-mining had of late been attracting a yearly inci'easing number of miners and prospectors into a portion of the district in question; and the work decided on, included the pre- liminary determination of the point at which the Yukon or Pclly Biver crosses the 141 st meridian, which here constitutes the boundary between the North-west Territory and Alaska. The writer was placed in general charge of the expedition, with Mi*. B. G. McConnell, B.A., and Mr. J. McEvoy, B.Ap.Sc, also of the Geolo- gical Sui'vey, as assistants, while Mr. W. Ogilvie, D.L.S., was inti-tsted with the conduct of instrumental measurement and the astronomical work in connection with the determination of the position of the 141st meridian. In consequence of information gained from persons having some knowledge of the region to be traversed, it was decided that Mr. Ogilvie should carry out an instrumeutaliy measured traverse of the route from the head of Lynn Canal to the Lewes and along the line of the river to the 141st meridian, where he was to make arrangements for wintering, and in the spring and summer of 1888 continue his sur- veys north-eastwai-d to the Mackenzie Biver and up that river to connect with previously surveyed lines on Athabasca Lake. Having ascertained that there was a fair probability of his being able to carry a line of survey and exploration from the Cassiar district in northern British Columbia, by way of the Upper Liard and across the height of land to the Yukon basin, the writer decided on attempting that route, which, though known to be difficult, appeared to offer, in conjunction with Mr. Ogilvie's work, the best opportunity of adding to our knowledge of the country as a whole. Mr. McC(mnell was entrusted, in the first instance, with the instru- mental measurement of the Stikine Biver, from the point to which sui'veys had previously been carried, as far as the head of navigation, and subsequently, with the exploration of the lower portion of the Liard Biver; the original intention being that he should return after reaching the Mackenzie, in the autumn of 1887, by the ordinary trade route up that river. Before we finally separated from Mr. McConnell, Change of plan, at the confluence of the Dease and Liard, however, so many unexpected delays had occun*ed, that it was considered advisable to instruct Mr. McConnell to endeavour to make arrangements for passing the winter of 188*7-88 on the Mackenzie, and subsequently to descend the Macken- zie, cross the northern extremity of the Bocky Mountains to the Porcu- pine Biver, and by following that river and ascending the Lewes, to return to the Pacific Coast at Lynn Canal. This arrangem«5nt further Work by the writer. Work by Mr. MoCoanell. OAWtON.] SUMMARY OF PROCEEDINQS. 7b provided for the exami^atioD of a great additional region of which the geological structure was altogether unknown. Mr. McConnoU hasKaporte. F.ince successfully completed the arduous journey thus outlined. A preliminary report of his work, as far as the mouth of the Liard, is given in conjunction with that of the writer, in Part III, Annual Re- port of the Department of the Interior, 1887. A progress report of Mr. Oi^ilvie's work forms a portion of Part II of the same volume. Tue present report relates exclusively to the exploration '^y the ^he present writer in 1887, with the following exceptions: — (1.) Mr. McConnell's tiaverse and geological observations on a portion of the Stikine are included in the description of that river and are incorporated on the accompanying map. (2.) The Lowes River, as laid lown on the map, (with the exception of the mountain features in its vicinity and some additions to the outlines of the lakes), is from the surv ;y of Mr. W. Ogilvie. The results of Mi*. McConnell's work, earned out after his separation from us at the mouth of the Dease, will form the subject of ^ a separate report of the Geological Survey, and Mr. Ogilvie will also " prepare an independent report of his survey on his return. In oixler to present within a reasonable compass the results of the por- ArranBement tion of the work of the expedition here reported on, the daily record of progress, which the unknown character of the country traversed might otherwise appear to warrani:, has been discai-ded, and but slight allusion is made to the modes of travel adopted and the numerous vicissitudes encountered during our journey. This, while resulting in the loss of interest which a connected narrative might possess, has distinct advantages in other respects. On account of the extent of the region treated of, the descriptive portion of the report has been divided into separate chapters, each 'abating of a distinct portion of our route and constituting practically a separate short report. In the pages immediately following this introduction, some general notes on the region as a whole, are given. Summary of Proceedings. The following summary of our proceedings in connection with the Journey to the expedition is substantialiy the same as that given in my preliminary report before alluded to. — We left Ottawa on the 22nd of April, 1887, travelling by the Canadian Pacific Railway to Victoria, but, in consequence of irregu- larity in the sailing dates of the Alaskan mail steamers, were unable to reach Wrangell, at the mouth of the Stikine River, where our work may have said to have begun, till the 18th of May. Here Mr. McConn^U stayed behind, for the purpose of getting Indians and canoes to enable him to make a micrometer survey of the Stikine from the end of the 8b YUKON DISTRICT AND BBITISH COLUMBIA. I Jonrney to Doaielake y /i. Dease Loko. line measured by Mr. J. Hunter in ISTT, to Telegi-aph Creek, while I proceeded up the river by the fii-st bteamer of the season to Telegraph Creek, the head of navigation. Fi'om this place, goods are carried by pack animals to Dease Lake, the centre of the Cassiar mining district; and here again a delay of several day^ occurred, as the animals had not been brought in from their range or shod for the season's work at the date of our arrival. Finally, on Juno 5th, we reached the head of Dease Lake, and found the greater part of the lake still covered with ice. It was not till the 9th that we were able to reach the point on the shore near Laketon at which two men, previously sent on in ad- BaildiDg boat*, vance with an Indian packer, were sawing lumber for boats. Seven days were here busily employed in this work and in constructing three boats for the purposes of the expedition. On the evening of the 16th, a strong wind having broken up the remaining barriei* of ice, we reached Laketon with our boats, Mr. McConnell, with a crew of five Coast Indians intended for my work on the Upper Liard, having mean- Departure fro* while joined us. On the 18th, having completed our supplies and out- fit at Laketon, we left that place, and on the 23rd reached the " Lower Post " at the confluence of the Dease and Liard Eivers. Here Mr. McConnell, with one boat and two mon, separated from us for the pur- pose of surveying and geologically examining the Lower Liard. On leaving the confluence of the Dease and Liai-d, my own party included, besides myself, Mr. McEvoy, Messrs. L. Lewis aiid D. Johnson, engaged at Victoria, two Tshimsian and three Stikine (Thlinkit) Indians, all good boatmen. T«vo local Indians hired as guides, and to help in portaging, deserted a day or two after engaging, and from the "Lower Post" to near the confluence of the Pel ly and Lewes, for an interval of more than six weeks, we L^et neithei* whites nor Indians. The ascent of the Liai-d and Frances rivei's to Francos Lake proved unexpectedly difldcult and tedious, the rivers being swift throughout and three bad canons having to be passed through. Frances Lake was reached on the 8th of July, and after spending afe /days in examining and mapping the lake, making the observations nocessajy to fix its position, and in the endeavour to find some Indian trail by which we might travel across to the Polly, we began the work of portaging on the 17th. As we had been unable to discover any route now in use by the Indians, and no trace whatever remained of the trail employed by the Hudson Bay Company in former j-ears ; and further, as no local Indians could be found to act as guides or to assist in carrying our stuff, it was evident that the crossing of this portage (which had been estimated by Mr. Campbell at about TO miles in length) would be a difficult matter, Penonnel of parties. Journey to Frances Lake. Jooraey over- land to Polly irer. 0AW80N.] SUMMARY OF PROCEF T>INa8. 9b and that wo might indeed find it impossible to carry over a sufficient supply o» provisions for work on the Pelly. We therefore, constructed a strong log cache on the shore of Frances Lake, and left there, to be taken to Dease Lake by the Indians when they returned, everything we could possibly dispense with. Had we been unable to effect the portage, there was in our cache a snfficient supply of provisions to en- able the whole party to return to the " Lower Post." After a very toil- some journey, we were, however, so fortunate as to reach the bank of the Upper Pelly on the 29fh of July, with still nearly a month's provisions for four persons, our instruments and a small camping outfit, a canvas cover from which a canoe might bo constructed, and the tools and nails for building a wooden boat, should that prove to bo neces- sary. Our Indians, who had for a long time been ver^^ uneasy because of their distance from the coast and the unknown character of the country into which they bad been taken, wee here paid off, and to their great delight allowed to turn back. As a dangerous rapid was reported to exist on the upper part of the Descent of the Polly, it was decided to construct a canvas canoe in preference to ^ '*'"' ^*"''* building a boat, which it might prove impossible to portage past the rapid. Having completed the canoe, we descended the Pelly, making a portage of half a mile past Hoole Rapid or Cuilon, and arrived at the ^. confluence of the Lewes branch with the Upper Pelly on the 11th of August. We had now reached the line of route which is used by the Proceedings a* miners, and expected to find, at the mouth of the Lewes, a prearranged Le"we8° memorandum from Mr. Ogilvie, from whom we had separated in May. As wo could not find any such notice, and as Mr. Ogilvie had not been seen on the lower river by a party of miners whom we met here on their way up the Lowes, we were forced to conclude that he had not yot reached this point. The same party infoi-mod us that there had boon few miners during the summer on the Stewart Eiver, where most of the work had been carried on in 1886, but that in consequence of the discovery of "coarse" gold on Forty-mile Cieok, over 200 miles further down the river, most of the men had gone there. We were also told that Harper's tnuling post, where 1 had hoped to be able to got an additional supply of provisions should wo fail to connect with Mr. Ogilvie, had been moved from the mouth of the Stewart to Korty-mile Creek. Prom the place where we now were we still liiul a journey of nearly 400 miles to the coast, with the swift waters of the Lewes to contend against for the greater part of the distance. If therefore it should have become necessary to go down stream 200 miles to Forty-mile Cjeek for provisions, so much would have boon added to our up-8ti*eam journey that it would become doubtful whether we should be able to atfoi-d time for geolo^;ical work on I 10 b TUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA Building our fifth boat. Reaoh Lynn Canal* the Lewes, and yet reach the coast before the smaller iakes near the mountains were frozen over. I therefore decided to set about the building of another boat, suitable for the ascent of the Lewes, and on the second day after we had begun work, Mr. Ogilvie very opportunely appeared. After having completed our boat and obtained Mr. Ogilvie's preliminary report and map-sheets, together with the necessary pro- visions, we began the ascent of the Lewes, from the head-waters of which wo crossed the mountains by the Chilkoot Pass and reached the coast at the head of Lynn Canal on the 20th September. In addition to the physifi' obstacles to be encountered on the long Reportsd route above outlined, some anxiety was caused by reported Indian ^"*'"' *'*'"'''''" troubles on the Yukon. We heard a most circumstantial account of these from a couple of minei-s who followed us in to Dease Lake, the report being that the hostile Indians had retreated up the Pelly. As it wa« impossible either to confirm or refute these reports without practically abandoning the scheme of work, it was determined to proceed accord- ing to the original ai-rangement. On reaching the mouth of the Lewes we ascertained that the story was entirely false, but it had none the less kept us in a state of watchfulness during a great part of the summer. Main Geographical Besults. \j^ Geographioai T^® main geographical results of the Yukon expedition, in so far as dauobuined. ^hose are coveied by the piesent report, are best shown by the accom- panying maps, which may be compared with previous maps of the same region. Mr. Ogilvie's instrumentally measured line from the head of Lynn Canal to the intersection of the Yukon or Pelly by the 141st meridian, will form a sufficiently accurate base for further sur- veys. In addition to this we now have an instrumental survey of the Stikine from its inouth to the head of navigation (Telegraph Creek), which is connected with Dease Lake by a carefully paced traverse. This is continued by a detailed running- or track-survey following the lines of the Dease, Upper Llard and Pelly rivers, and connecting with Mr. Ogilvie's line at the mouth of the Lewes, the total distance from the mouth of the Stikine to this point, by the route travelled being about U44 miles. Adding to this the distance from the mouth of { Length of route*'*® Lewes back to the coast at the head of Lynn Canal (377 miles), the entire distance travelled by us during the exploration amounts to | 1322 miles. Thii?, taken in connection with the coast-line between the Stikine and Lynn Canal, circumscribes an area of about 63,200 square I miles, the interior of which is Btill, but for the accounts of a few pros- pectors and reports of Indians, a terra incognita. The same description, trayened. DAwaON.] OBOORAPUY AND GENERAL FEATURES. 11 B kes near the )t about the )\ves, and on opportunely Mr. Ogilvie'8 cessary pro- ead-waters of I reached the d on the long »orted Indian al account of ike, the report y. As it wu« lut practically «ceed accortl- I of the Lew OS had none the t part ot the )n, in 80 far as jy the accom- j maps of the ine from the ■ Pelly by the r further bur- survey of the raph Creek), loed traverse, following the id connecting total distance ute travelled the mouth of | tl (377 miles), \n amounts to between the 1 63,200 square | f a few pros- 16 description, with little qualification, applies to the whole surrounding region out- side the surveyed circuit, but much general informution concerning the country has been obtained, which will facilitate further explorations. Along the routes thus travelled numerous points have been carefully Positions fixed, fixed in latitude by sextant observations, and a sufficient number of chronometer longitudes have been obtained by which to lay the whole down within small "mits of error. Special attention was paid to the sketching and fixing of mountain topography in sight from the line of travel, and the approximate altitudes of a number of the more pro- minent peaks was ascertained. No reference is made here to the further work carried out by Messre. Ogilvie and McConnoU in 1888, which will, as above stated, be separ- ately reported on. Orography and Generai- FEAiimES. The region traversed by the routes just mentioned, including thcDrainace BVStGDl extreme northern part of British Columbia and the southern part of the Yukon district (as previously defined), is drained by three great river systems, its waters reaching the Pacific by the Stikine, the Mac- kenzie, (and eventually the Arctic Ocean,) by the Liard, and Behring Sea, by the Yukon. The south-eastern part of the region is divided between the two first named rivers, whose ti'ibutary streams interlock, the Stikine making its way completely through the Coast Ranges in a south-westerly direction, while the Liard, on a northeasterly bear- I ing, cuts across the Rocky Mountains to the Mackenzie valley. The watershed separating these rivers near Deaso Lake baa a height of 1 2730 feet, and both streams may be generally characterized as very I rapid. To the north-westward, branches of the Stikine and Liard again Watershed. [interlock w'th the head-waters of several tributaries of the Yukon, which here unwater the entire great area enclosed on one side by the ICoast Ranges, on the other by the Rocky Mountains. As the general Idirection of this line of watershed is transverse to that of the main lorographic ridyes of the country, it will probably be found, when Itnicod in detail, to bo very sinuous. The actual watorsherl, between the |Liui d and Pelly, on our lire ( " route, was found to have an elevation af 3150 feet, but it is, no uoubt, much lower in the central portion of the region between the Rocky Mountains and Coast Ranges. To the north of the Stikine, ot least one other river, the Taku, cuts like it completely across the Coast Rai:gcs, but its basin is compara- tively restricted and little is yet known of it. It will bo noticed, that while the several branches of the Yukon con- Counesof , Riren. tl li 12 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Relief of the region. Trend of rangei. The Coast Kan£logically thel features characteristic of it in the more southern portion of Britishj Columbia. Beyond the vicinity of Lynn Canal, this mountain axis] runs behind the St. Elias Alps, ceasing to be the continental border, and may ho said to be entirely unknown, as any indications of moun-l tains which have appeared on this part of the map are purely conjec-l tural. Notwithstanding the great width of the Coast Ranges, it is iiotl known that any of their constituent mountains attain very notaLilej altitudes, but it is probable that a great number of the peaks excoedj a height of 8000 feet. These ranges are composed of very numeroiisj mountain ridges, which are not always uniform in direction, and, sol far. as has been ob.served, there is no single culminating or dominanlj range which can bo traced for any considerable distance. The mountain axis next in importance to that of the Coast Ranges,! is that which forms the watei-parting between the Upper Liard iindj Yukon, on one side, and the feeders of the main Mackenzie River oij the other. This represents the north-western continuation of il Rocky Mountains proper. Its eastern ridges were touched on durind 0AW8ON.] OROGBAPOT AND QENERAL FEATCREd. 13 b le Stikine and ;so, and to flow M-a belt of the ter, but it com- ly rolling coun- t is, moreover, ; — that drained and apparently the same time or tracts of low leys, within the learlv 1500 feet lO average base- e over 2000 feet, the trend of the le entire region le coast. In the sh rangoo as are id a line which I 'ranees Lake the of about eighty mded or rugged ic uplift in the geologically the )rtion of British i mountain axisl itinental border,! lations of mounj purely conjec-l anges, it is iiotj n very notaL4e| lO peaks excoedl very numeroiisl jrection, and, sol or or dominanl the present exploration in the vicinity of Frances Lake and the head waters of the Polly River, and are there designated on the map as the Too- tbho Range. This forms, so far as has been ascertained, the culminating range of a number of more or less exactly parallel ridges, and summits in it attain heights of from 7000 to 9000 feet. It has, however, been • traced to a comparatively limited distance only, and it appears probable that a very complicated mountain system remains to be worked out in this portion of the region. A third notable mountain axis, which I have designated on the mapOassiar Range, as the Cassiar Range, is cut through by the Deaso River in its upper course, and further to the north-westward appears to form the line of water-parting between the tributaries of the Upper Liard and those of the branches of the Yukon. Peaks near the Dease, in this range, exceed 7000 feet, but it is probable that none much exceed 8000 I'eot, and that the range in a^ general way becomes lower to the north- westwai-d. In the north-western and less elevated moiety of the region, the moimtain ranges and ridges are in general lower and become discon- tinuous and irregular, or while retaining a general parallelism, assume an overlapping or echelon-like arrangement. In each of these mountain chains above described granitic rocks Granitic rooks, appear in greater or less force, as more fully noted on succeeding pages. In the intervening and subordinate mountain systems of the south-east, granitic axes are not found and do not exist as prominent features. Scarcely anything is known of the character of the country drained Orography of by the Macmillan, Stewart and White rivers, but it is probable that "ogfons!""* the basins of the two fij-st-named streams closely resemble that of the Upper Polly, which is described in following pages. Miners who have ascended the Stewart for a hundred miles or more, report the existence of a continuous range of mountains of considei-able height, which runs paiallel to the river on the north, from a point about fifty miles from its mouth onward. Theabsenceoftributariesof any size along the south-west side of the Lewes below the Tahk-heena, with the general appearance of the country in that direction, so far it has been overlooked, seems to show that the basin of the upper portion of the White River must be comparatively low, and situated as it is within the St. Elias Alps, this country must possess most remarkable features, both geographically and from a climatic point of view, and well deserves exploration. It would further appear to be nearly certain that the sources of the Tan- ana River are to be looked for in this district, well to the east of the lilst meridian. The topographical features of the entire region here described have Effeou of the been considerably modified by the events of the glacial period, and the I'll Confused nomenolaturc. First explora- tion of YalcoD. i, * Origin of tho name. 14 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. changes produced at that time have more particularly affected the drainage-basins and the coui'ses of the various streams. The valleys and lower tracts of country are now more or less completely filled or covered by extensive deposits of boulder-clay, gravel, sand and silt •laid down during that period. To these deposits are due the flat flooi-s of the larger valleys, and also to a great extent the appearance which the more irregular mountain regions present of being partly sulv merged in level or rolling plains. Many changes in direction of flow in river-valleys have doubtless also been produced during this period, though most of these yet remain to be worked out. The general result has been to produce systems of "inconsequent " drain- age wherever the nutural slopes of the country are easy and the limiting ranges irregular. Most of the rivers at the present day have done little more than cut out new channels in the glacial dibris, touch- ing only here and there upon the subjacent rocky floor. Sources of the Yukon and Nomenclature. Such particulars as have been ascertained relative to the various rivers examined in the course of the exploration, are given in a sub- sequent part of this report. . As, however, some confusion has arisen in respect to the nomenclature of the Yukon and its tributaries, and erroneous statements have been made as to the " source" of the river, it may be appropriate here briefly to note the facts in the case in so far as I have been able to ascertain them. Further details of the early exploration of the river are given on page 136 b. The estuary of the Yukon appears to have been first explored by the Russian, Glasunott; in 1835 to 183S, and the river was then named by the Eussians the Kwikhpak, which name, according to Mr. W. H. Dall, is in reality that of one of the channels by which it issues to the sea. The lower part of the river, however, continued to be known under this name for a number of years, and it is so called on the (Russian) map of Lieut. Zagoskin, made from reeonnoisance surveys which, in 1842-43, he carried up as far as Nowikakat. The mouth of the river is shown on Arrowsmith's map of 1850, but is there nameless. The name Yukon was first applied in 1846 by Mr. J. Bell, of the Hudson Bay Company, who reachred the main river by descending the Porcupine, and called it by what he understood to be its Indian appella- tion. The head-waters of one of the main tributaries of the Yukon had previously been attained by Mr. R. Campbell (also an officer of the Hudson Bay Company) in 1840, and in 1850 he descended the river as far as the mouth of ihe Porcupine, naming the whole river thus traversed the Pelly, and naming also the Lewes, White and Stewart rivers, as well DAwaON ] SOURCES OF THE YLKON AND NOMENCLATURE. 15 B affected the The valleys ;tely filled or sand and silt ! the flat flooi-8 earance which ig partly sul> n direction of jd during this ed out. The quent" drain- easy and the iscnt day have il dibris, touch- to the various riven in a sub- sion has arisen tributaries, and b" of the river, a the case in so ails of the early jxplored by the [hen named by Mr.W.H.Dall, lues to the sea. known under the (Russian) Iveys which, in 1th of the river leless. J. Bell, of the lescending the [ndian appella- the Yukon had of the Hudson Ir as far as tho traversed tho I rivers, as well as numerous snialler tributaries. Campbells nomenclature and his Connection of „ . . . '.1 . 1 I. 1 ... .1 Yukon and sketch of the river appear on Arrowsmith s map publit«hed in April, Kwikbpak. 18.54, and Campbell practically established by his journey tho identity of his Pelly River with the Kw'.khpak of the Russians. The connec- tion between the two is given by a sketch (shown in broken linos) on the map just cited, on which also the mouth of the Tanana River (under the name Mountain-men River) is shown, and other details represented with reasonable accuracy. Tho sketch of the river below the mouth of tho Porcupine appears to have been due to the Hudson Bay Company's traders, who, before Campbell had communicated his fffographical information in London (in 1853), had already met tho 'Russian traders at the mouth of the Tanana. Much later, in i863, 1. S. Lukeen, of tho Russian Trading Company, ascended the river to the Hudson Bay post, Fort Yukon, at the mouth of the Porcupine.* The name Yukon does not appear at all on Arrowsmith's ^ap of J^^^* ^J^j^ 1854, that of the Pelly standing for the whole length of the liveruJip* exi)lored by Campbell, but since that date the term Yukon • has jfradually become applied to the main river. The next map in order of pul)lication in which original data are employed is, 1 believe, that accompanying Mr. Whympei-'s paper of 18G8, in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society,! which is also reproduced in his book> Travels in Alaska and on the Y'ukon (186!)). His general map gives the name Pelly for the whole river above the mouth of the Porcupine, " Kwich-Pak or Yukon," for the lower part. In his large-scale map, on the hame sheet, tho river above the Porcupine is named the Yukon or Pelly. Whymper refers to the river as tho " Yukon (or Pelly) as it has long been called on our maps.";}: In the United States Coast Sur- vey map dated 18ti9§ the main river between the Porcupine and Lewes is definitely named the Yukon ; but in the map accompanying Raymond's loflacial report (1871) this name is again confined to tho I'iver below the Porcupine, and the statement is made in the report (p. 21) that from Lake Labarge to Fort Y'ukon the river is called the Lewes. * Uy a singular oversight, Mr. W. II. Dall states in the first part of his work, Alaska and its I Resources 1870 (p. 4). that " the identity of the Yukon [PeliyJ River with the so-called Kwikh- Ipak of the Kussians " remained to be establislied when the explorations of the Tulegraph iSurvey Icummenced on the river in 186^, while giving the credit of this achievement to Lukeen on a sub- hcqueiit page (p. 277). Raymond repeats this error in his Report of a Reconnoissance of the 1 Yukon River (1871). Mr. Dall's work above cited oonKtitutes .i veritable mine of iuforinatiun on Ithe subjects of which it treats, and is frequently referred to in the sequel. Where, therefore, I as in the above case, criticisms are offered, it is in no spirit of detraction. t Vol. xxxviii. top. ctr.,p. 223. § In United States CJoast Survey Report for 1867 the same nomenclature is adopted, as it is also in the map accompanying Mr. Dall's Alaska (1870), in the Ethnological map of Alaska by Ithesame author (1875), aiu^in most later maps. Theae, howeTer, do not embody any original ■data for this region. 16 b YUKON DISTBICT AND BniTISH COLUMBIA. 0 ¥ -Pi ) I Farther Mach later, Lieut. Schwatka, in the maps accompanying the official nomenclature, report of his explorations of 1883 and in other maps elyowhet e pub- lished, in defiance of the fact that the name of the Lowes had a published priority of thirty years, erased it completely, extending the name Yukon so as to include under that designation the Lewes River. This extension of the name Yukon appears to be justified by Lieut. Schwatka on the ground that the Lewes is the larger branch at its con- fluence with the Upper Pelly. As elsewhere stated, this is no doubt true, but from what is now known of the Upper Pelly, that river is almost certainly the longer, its sources are furthest removed from the mouth of the Yukon and its course is more directly in continuation of its main direction than is the case with the Lewes. Granting, how- ever, that the Lewes excelled in all these particulars, it would still, I believe, be unjustifiable to alter an old established name for the sole purpose of giving to a river a single name from its mouth to its source. In any case it is incorrect to state that the Yukon (Lowos) rises in Lake Lindeman, or streams flowing into it, as is done by Schwatka, for by far the greater part of the water of the river enters by the Taku arm of Tagish Lake. With respect to the substitution of the name Yukon for that of Pelly on the portion of the river between the Porcupine and Lowes, it is simply a question of well established priority versus use. It is pos- sibly a matter of small importance which shall be employed in future, but no valid excuse can be ottered for the attempt to substitute any new name for that either of the Lowes or Pelly above the site of old Fort Selkirk. From the point of view of the physical geographer, and apart from I the question of nomenclature, the position of the furthest source of the great Yukon Eiver is, however, an interesting subject of enquiry ; though it may yet be some years before we are in possession of suffi- cient information to settle this question definitely. It may be con- 1 fidently assumed that this point is to be found by following up either! the Pelly or the Lewes from their confluence at the site of old Fort I Selkirk. As already stated, the Lewes there carries the gi'eater volumel of water, but draining as it does a considerable length of the humidl Coast Ranges, which bear throughout the year great reserves of snowl and numerous glaciers, it does not compare on terms of equality with! the Upper Pelly, which unwaters a region relatively dry. "Whetherl reckoned by size or distance from its mouth, the source of the LewesI must be placed at the head waters of the Hotilinqu Biver,i' explored! by Byrnes, of the Telegraph Survey, in approximate latitude 59° lO'J True Rouroea of the Yukon. * The Tea-lin-too oocupiea the mdn orographic valley above its oonflaenoe with the Lewe but i< smaller than the Lewes, and besides doubles back on its course, as is shown on the map. ng the official Iscwhere pub- Lowos had a jxtending the , Lewes River, iod by Lieut, nch at its con- is is no doubt r, that river is novcd from the continuation of Granting, how- it would still, I me for the solo th to its source. L,o\\os) rises in y Schwatka, for ,1^ by the Taku ikon for that of ne and Lewes, it s use. It is pos- ployod in future, 0 substitute any e the site of old -, and apart from lest source of the [ject of enquiry ; ^session of suffi- It may be con- [owing up either site of old Fort _ greater volume th of the humid reserves of snow [of equality withl dry. Whether l-ce of the Lewesl Aver* exploredl [latitude 59° 10'] cienoe with the Lewe I shown on the map. OAWtoN.] SOCRCES OF THE YUKON AND NOMENCLATURE. 17 B longitude 132° 40'. In regai-d to the Pelly, it is not yet absolutely certain that the Polly proper rises further from the common point at i Fort Selkirk than its great branches, the Macmillan and the Ross rivers, but it is highly probable that it will be found to do so. With the above facts premised, wo may compare the respective dis- Compariionof lances of assumed or probable sources of the Yukon as below, the " " "" distances being in each case measured in a straight line from the common point at Fort Selkirk : — Fort Selkirk to summit of Chilkoot Paaa, source accordin<^ to Schwatka (position fixed) 224 miles. " " to head of Hotalinqu River of Telegraph Survey (position approximate) 294 " " " to "Pelly Banks" (position fixed) 213 " ♦ to head of Pelly Lakes (above " Pelly Banks," according to Campbell's sketch) 276 " The upper lake on the Pelly must be fed by a considerable stream or streams, the addition of tho length of which, if known, would add considerably to the last of the above distances. ; I must confess to having been somewhat disappointed in tho size ofgizeof the the Pelly or Yukon where we saw it below tho confluence of the Lewes. "'"' Tho river is there, when undivided by islands, about 1700 feet only in width, with a maximum depth scarcely exceeding ten feet when at a stage which may bo considei'ed as its approximate mean. It appeared to me to be about equal in size and velocity to the Peace River at Bun- vegan and Mr. Ogilvie, who is also familiar with the Peace, concurred in this estimate. Below this place tho river, of course, receives a num- comparigon ber of important tributaries, but at any fairly comparable point on the River.**' °°"* two rivers I believe that the Mackenzie must far exceed the Yukon in volume. Numerical data on this point are unfortunately still almost entirely wanting, but the comparison of the drainage-areas of the two rivers, accoi*ding to the latest available information, strongly bears out the statement just made, that of the Yukon being 330,912 square miles as against 077,400 square miles in tho cate of tho Mackenzie.* In other Words, the drainage area of the Mackenzie is more than double that of tho Yukon, while nothing is known to ishow that the moan annual precipitation over the two ai-oas, as a whole, differs very greatly. Exaggerated Mtatements which have been made, to the effect that the Yukon discharges a volume of water approaching that of the Mississ- ippi, appear to carry their own refutation in the fact that tho basin of tho latter river has an area of no less thao 1,226,000 square miles. * Of the area drained by the Yukon, about 150,768 square miles are in Canadian, 180,144 square miles in United-States Territory. 2 DiMhanaof riTMB. Upper Pelly •nd Lewes oompsreda Itf , I 18 b TDKOW DI8TBI0T AND BBITI8H COLUMBIA. Some attempt was made by us to gage the flow of several of the riven in the Ynbfon basin, as more fally stated further on. The di|> charge of the several rivers above the site of the old Fort Selkirk may be i-oughly summarized as follows. The figures given in heavy type are derived from measurements moro or less approximate, the others are based merely on comparisons made by eye and without any attempt to cross-section the streams. The scheme may, however, serve to give a general idea of relative dimensions. All the figures represent cubic feet per second and refer to the latter part of the summer, when the rivers may bo assumed to be at their mean height. In common with all the streams of the interior region these are highest in the early summer and lowest toward the end of the winter. Pelly River, at " Pelly Banks " 4,f Ross River, at mouth 4,898 Macmillan River, at mouth 9,796* Tes-lin-too, at mouth 11,436 Lewis River, above confluence with last 18,664 Big Salmon 2,726 Total thus accounted for 52,418 Pelly or Yukon at site of Fort Selkirk 66,9S5 Difference from above total, not accounted for. . 14,537 By adding two-thirds of the water thus not accounted for to the Pelly and one-third to the Lewes, to represent the flow of numerous smaller ti'ibutaries not enumerated, the discharge of theso two rivers above Fort Selkirk will stand thus : — Lewis . Pelly.. 37,672 29,28» Totalasabove 66,956t * The discharge of the Ross is taken as eqaal to that of the Pelly at " Pelly Banks," that of the Macmillan as equal to the combined waters of the Pelly and Ross. t For the purpose of comparison, the following eztriik.t ^rom a ^able of vaiious rivers, contained in the General Report of the Minister of Public Worls hi the fifteen years from 1867 to 1882, is quoted :— NAMES. Mississippi St. Lawrence Oanges Nile Thames Rhone Rhine Ottawa (Grenville)... Area of drainage in square miles. 1,226,000 565,000 432,000 520,200 d;ooo 38,000 88,000 80,000 Length in miles. 4,400 2,600 1,680 2,240 215 560 700 700 Discharge in cubic feet per second. Low Water. 447,200 36,300 23,100 1,330 7,000 13,400 35,000 Mean. 900,000 207,000 220,000 21,000 33,700 85,000 High Water. 1,270,000 ' 494,206' 7,900 204,000 164,000 160.000 OAWMN.] of the 'he dU' rk may vy type ) others attempt ) to give nt cubic hen the lon with lie early 8 8 16* A !6 L8 » 37 or to the numerous 5^0 rivers 72 183 55 1 nks," that of srs, contained 867 to 1882, is per second. High Water. 1,270,000 494,200 ""7,966* 204,000 164,000 160,000 NAYIGABLB WATIRS AND ROUTXS OF THAVKL. Navigable Waters and Routes of Travel. 19 b \, The numerous large and important rivers by which the Yukon dis- Narlgkbla trict and the adjacent northern portion of British Columbia is inter- sected, constitute the principal routes of travel, and during the summer months render inter-communication comparatively easy. The Stikine is navigable by stern-wheel steamers for a distance of 138 miles, ais more fully stated in a subsequent part of this report, where also details respec- ting the connecting trail to Dease Lake are given (pp. 46 b, 64 b). This constitutes the travelled route to the Cassiar mining district. A trail was, at one time, opened from Fraser Lake overland to Dease Lake by which cattle were driven through, but of late no travel hasoceuiTcd on it (p. 89 b). The Dease River can scarcely be considered as navigable for steamers, though constituting a fairly good boat route (p. 91 b). The Upper Liard and Frances rivers, above the mouth of the Dease, are also passable for large boats, with occasional portages, but not so for steamers (p. 102 b). 1 The difficulties of the Lower Liard, however, are such as to render it an undesirable route, even for boats, and scarcely suitable as an avenue of trade between Cassiar and the Mackenzie. Numerous tributary streams in this district may also be ascended by boat or canoe for considerable distances, though with many interrup- tions from rapids and bad water. Communication may easily be established by railway from thePowiW* mouth of the Stikine to the centrb of the Cassiar district and beyond, when this shall bo called for, and it is probable also that this district might, without difficulty, be connected by rail with the more southern portions of British Columbia by one or more routes of which the main outlines can already b indicated. Following the river- valleys, by a route practicable for a . xilway, from Bothsay Point at the mouth of the Stikine to the mouth of tht) Dease, the distance is found to be 330 miles. Thence to Fort Simpson on the Mackenzie, is a further distance of 1390 miles, making the total distance by this route, from the Pacific to the navigable waters of the Mackenzie about 720 miles only. liittle is yet known of the Taku Biver, but the Indians ascend it inxakuRi^erand oanoes to a point at a distance of about eighty miles from the head of*'*''** 'Yiiku Inlet, and Indian trails lead south-eastward from this vicinity to tho Tahl-tan, eastwai-d to Tes-lin Lake and north-ea-stward to the lakes near the head of the LewesJ) From what has been ascertained of these, it is probable that it would not be difficult to construct a trail suitable for pack-animals, if not a waggon road, from the vicinity of the head of navigation on the Stikine to these lakes connecting with the navigable waters of the Lewes. 20 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. u n TributKiies of Takon. Navirfdblo lengths of rivers. Aggregate leii|(th of navigable waters. Means of access to Yukon District. The rivers draining the Upper Yukon basin, have in general lower grades, and afford bettor navigable water than those above referred to, and are in consequence likely to prove of greater importance in con- nection with the exploration and development of the country. The distance to which they may be respectively ascended by boat or canoe, has as yet been determined in only a few casetf. It may, however, be stated that the Yukon is continuously navigable ibr small steamers from its mouth, on Behring Sea and following the Lowes branch, to Miles Caiion. Thence, after an interruption of about three miles, to the head of Bennett Lake and to an additional consider- able— though not precisely determined distance — by the watei's ex- tending south-eastward from Tagish Lake (p. H)5b). The Tes-lin-toois probably navigable for stern-wheel steamers for a hundred and fifty miles or more from its mouth, (p. 154 b) while the Tahk-heena and Big Salmon rivers may probably both bo ascended by steamers of the same class for some distance. From the site of old Fort Selkirk, again, the Pelly might bo navigated by small steamers of good power to within about fifty miles of the site of old Fort Polly Banks, (p. 133 b) and the Macmillan branch is^also navigable for a considerable, though not ascertained distance (p. 129 b). The same may be said of the Stewart River, but White River is, so far as known, very swift and shoal. The total length of the waters which may be utilized for navigation by light stern-wheel steamers on the main A'ivor and its branches totho east of the 14l8t meridian or Alaskan boundary, measured in straight lengths of fifty miles, is therefore at least 1000 miles, and following the sinuosities of the various streams would be very much greater. This does not include the Porcupine River, and with the exception of the single break above i-eferred to on the Lewes, forms a connected system, all parts of which Ho to the east .of the above meridian. If the upper portion of these rivers, above the first obstacles to such naviga- tion, weio included, the total hero given would doubtless bo greatly added to. At the present moment but three routes of access to the Yukon dis- trict are employed. (I). That of the portage by the Chilkoot- Pass from the head of Lynn Canal to the navigable waters of the Lewes. (2). That from Peel River, near its confluence with the Mackenzie by portage to La Pierre's House on a branch of the Porcupine. (3). That from Behring Sea by the' main river. The first is that almost exclu- sively used by the miners, the second is employed only by the Hudson Bey Company, and the last is that of the Alaskan traders. There are now three small stern wheel steamers on the lower river, which ascend each year as far as the trading post at Forty-mile Creek, OAW80N.3 CLIBfATE, AQRIOnLTDRE AND PL0R.4. 21 B oral lower eferred to, ce in con- itry. The it 01* canoe, y^ navigable lowing the on of about lal consider- waters ex- Ces-lin-too is ed and fifty icna and Big ners of the [)rt Selkirk, ood power to 4. (p. 133 b) able, though said of the ry swift and V navigation anchos to the in straight nd following nuch greater. exception of a connected idian. If the Buch nuviga- 88 bo greatly 0 Yukon dis- ;hilkootPa8B >f the Lewes. ackenzie by 0. (3). That almost exclu- the Hudson lower river, ly-milo Creek, bringing the greater part of the gooda used in trade with the Indians and for the supply of miners. It is not possible, however, for miners to reach the scene of their operations by this route in time to make a season's work, and the chances of reaching or leaving the Yukon mouth aie few and precarious. Particulars relating to the Chilkool Pass and Lewes Eiver will be found on pages 173 b, 174 b. The charactor of the pass is such that it would scarcely be possible to construct a useful trail across it for pack-animals,*but the White Pass appears to oifer a better opportunity for making a trail or road which, if constructed, would render the entire region much more easy of access. Another route, also leading from the head of Lynn Canal to navigable water connect- ing with the Lowes, is that by the Chilkat Pass. This was formerly much emplo^'cd by the Indians, but entails a much longer land carriage, one which is said to occup3'- the Indians for twelve days when carry- ing packs, as against two da^'s of packing by the Chilkoot Pass. The Indians inhabiting the region to the south and east of the site of indiun routes. old Fort Selkirk are poor boatmen and follow the various i-ivers in the course of their pei-iodic journej's to a very limited extent. Most of their travelled loutes appear, indeed, to run nearly at right-angles to the direction of drainage, the rivers being crossed in summer on raits, the remains of which may frequently be observed. In travelling thus they carry their entire small camping outfit on their backs. Climate, Agriculture and Flora. While the available information as to the climate of the northern General portion of British Columbia and the Yukon district is necessarily as oiimato. yet very imperfect, its genej-al features are sufficiently obvious, repeat- ing as the^^do those met with in the similarly circumstanced region to the south, with slioh modification as is produced by their higher lati- tude. The coast and coastward slopes of the Coast Ranges constitute a belt of excessive humiditv and great precipitation, with somewhat equable temperatures, while l.ie interior region to the eastward of these ranges is relatively dry, witii a temperature of extremes.* In the interior, however, the climate is largely influenced b}- the altitude of each particular district, and in consequence of the general lowering of tlu' country beyond the 60th parallel (constituting the north line of British Columbia), it is certain that the climatic conditions are there much more favorable than in the Cassiar district. Thf n an annual temperature of the coast region is considerably Regions of higher than that of the interior; yet, in consequence of the great ^1*^? ' * A mean of the total unniial precipitation for Furt Toigasj, Wrangoll and Sitica gives a gciicriil muan for the ooa8t of 86'8I inoltos. mmmmmim^Bgi 22 b 1 1% Profrasa of apriDg. h Dry belts. Soauner and winter windr. YDKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. depth of the snow-fall and persistently clouded character of the skics^ the Coast Eanges are found to support numerous and mabsive glaciei-s, while these are almost or altogethei' absent in the Cassiar Mountains, in the mountains about Frances Lake and in the other ranges seen by us in the interior. The heavy accumulation of snow upon the Coast Mountains and In their valleys, retai-ds the progress of spring, as is very clearly evidenced on the Stikine, and explained more fully elsewhere., (p. 58 b). The depth of snr^w in winter continues to bo inconsiderable or moderate, at least as far down the Pelly (Yukon) as the mouth of Stewart River and Forty-mile Creek, while at Nulato, on the lower river and in a similar latitrde, but 500 miles further west, the depth of snow from April to November is said to average eight feet and often to reach twelve feet.* Mr. Dall also writes : " The valley of the Lower Yukon is somewhat foggy in the latter part of summer ; but as we ascend the river the climate improves, and the short season at Fort Yukon is dry, but pleasant, only varied by an occasional shower." Relatively to the country of the Upper Yukon basin, the advent of spring is much retarded in the country to the west, and it is stat-, d that on the river below Nulatto alder buds were found just operiri • and tender leaves beginning to appear on the 4th of June. These and other facts seem to show conclusively, that in the absence of a con- tinuous mountain barrier in that region, the humid winds of the Pacific are enabled to push eastward a long way up the Yukon valley, caiTy- ing with them the belt of heavy snow-fall, which ceases to be conter- minous with the Coast Mountains, as it is to the south-eastward. As in the more southern parts of British Columbia, the dryest coun- try is found to occur in a belt bordering the eastern or lee side of the Coast Ranges, and this phenomenon recurs, though in a less marked degree, in connection with each of the well-defined mountain ranges of the interior. Thus a region of greater humidity is found near Dease Lake, on the western side of the Cassiar Mountains, with a dry belt on the east side of the range ; while humid conditions, with recurrent showers in summer, characterize the district in the vicinity of Frances and Finlayson lakes. Further illustrations of this fact, with other climatic observations, will be found in the body of this report and in Appendix Vf. A noteworthy circumstance in connection with the Stikine valley, the passes leading from the head of Lynn Canal, and doubtless in all the low gaps in the Coast Ranges, is the change in direction as between the summer and winter winds. During the c.immor strong winds blowing up these valleys inland, are of very frequent occurrence and they commonly freshen in the afternoon and die away toward night. In * Alaska and ita Resources, W. H. Dall, 1870, p. 437. the skies, re glaciei*8, Mountains, ;es seen by I the Coast r, as is very elsewhere, onsiderable le mouth of i the lower t, the depth et and often illey of the mer ; but as ftson at Fort lal shower." e advent of it is sta^.fl just operiN These and ice of a con- of the Pacific [•alley, caiTy- o be conter- Avard. dryost coun- |e side of the less marked An ranges of |d near Dease dry belt on |th recurrent ,y of Frances ,, with other port and in DAwaoN.] CLIMATE AQRICULTDRE AND FLORA. 23 B the winter months the conditions are precisely reversed, the strongest winds blowing seaw^ard. The summer winds are doubtless homologous with the sea breezes observed in many other regions, while the direc- tion of the winter winds probably depends on the existence of a per- sistent anti-cyclonic area in the interior during that season. The temperature of Wrangell, just off the month of the Stikine, may TemperatuToa probably be taken as fairly representative of that of the coast in these interior, latitudes. For the interior region, here particularly treated of, we are unfortunately without a series of thermometer readings extending even over a single year, but some idea of its climate may be formed from that of Fort Yukon, which is, however, situated far to the north, almost exactly on the Arctic circFe. The mean seasonal temperatures for these two stations may be compared as below.* — Wrangell. Fort Yukoa. Spring 40.4 14.6 Summer 571 56.7 Autumn 43.0 17.4 Winter 28.3 —23.8 IS Yoar 42.2 16.8 In the central provinces of European Eussia the thermometer compariaon descends to —22° and —31°, and occasionally even to —54°, in the *'"* ^""'''* winter months, but rises at times to 104° and even to 109" in summer. The rain-fall is small, varying from sixteen to twenty-eight inches, the maximum precipitation taking place during the summer months, and not, as in western Europe, in the winter, while the months of advanced spring are warmer than the corresponding months of autumn. f So far as our information goes, the above statement might altnoi-t be adopted as characterizing the climate of the southern half of the Yu'^on district. At T'jii graph Creek and in its vicinity on the Stikine, to the oast ofcrojjs i.inI iho '■ '■)iM,l l^nngos (lat. 58°), wheat, barley and potatoes are successfully"" "^ '""'• J5; wn v.''{V« tlio aid of irrigation. Their cultivation has so far been attem^ji ! on a limited scale only, on account of the want of any mar- ket, and .* ' .it has been grown only experimentally, m it cannot, like barley, be employed for feeding pack-animals. None of those crops can bo h icecssfully grown or ripened on the coastward side of the niountai IS. At Fort Yukon (wituatod, as above noted, on the Arctic circled Mr. ]>all states ho was informed that barley had onfco or twicf; been tried in small patches ami had succoodod in maturing the gr"in, though the sti'aw was very short.^ A few cattle were also ^ : r •.'. he United-Stiito8 Coast Pilot, Alaska. Part I, 1883, p. 269. I i: olupediu Britannioa, vol. xxi, p. 67. i Cji. cit,, p. 4(1. 24 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Oonolusions as to possible agrioulture Trees. Timber. kept here at one time, when the post was in the possession of the Hudson Bay Company. Petroff, in his Census Eeport on Alaska, endeavors to discredit Ball's statement as to the growth of barley at this northern point, but I am fortunately in possession of independent evidence as to its accuracy, the late Mr. James Andci-son, of the Hud- son Bay Company, having noted in an official report on the district that both potatoes and barley have been grown at the fort. Taking into consideration all the facts which I have been able to obtain, as well as those to be derived from an examination of the natural flora of the country, and the observed advance of vegetation, which, in the absence of actual experiments, are capable of affording valuable data, I feel no hesitation in stating my belief that such hardy crops as bai'ley, rye, turnips and flax can be successfully cultivated in the Yukon district as far north as the former position of Fort Selkirk, near the 63rd parallel, or in other woi-ds about 1000 miles north of Victoria. Taken i 'unction with the physical features of the region, this means, lu lieflj' within the drainage area of the Yukon, and for the most part to ihe north of the 60th parallel, there exists an area of about 60,000 square miles, of which a large proportion may, and doubtless in the future will — be utilized lor the cultivation of such crops, and in which cattle and horses might be maintained in sufficient number for local purposes, without undue labor, as excellent summer grazing is generally to be found along the river-valleys and natural hay-meadows are frequent. I do not maintain that the country is suitable for immediate occupation by a large, self-supporting agricul- tural community, but hold that agriculture may before many years be successfully prosecuted, in conjunction with the natural develop- ment of the other I'csourccs of this great country, of which by far the most valuable portion lies to the cast of the lino of tho Alaskan boundary. A note on the distribution of the various species of trees and on that of some of the herbaceous plants forms a separate section of this report (Appendix I), while in Appendix 111, Prof Macoun gives a list of the plants collected. Eemarks on the quantity and quality of timber along the various routes are given under the local headings. It may suffice here to state, in this connection, that the country it^ generally wooded,* and that in all portions of it, in valleys and on low lands, there is an abundance of white spruco, of fair to good quality, well suited for purposes of con- struction. The other species of trees present are of inferior economic importance. ' * No areax of tundra or frozen morass, 8uoh as are stated to be oharaoteristio of the country of tho Lower Yukon, were found in the region here reported on. N - 0AW80N.] FAUNA. 25 b ion of the n Alaska, ' barley at idependent f the Hud- istriet that jen able to tion of the vegetation, )f affording such hardy lultivated in "oi-t Selkirk, les north of uros of the f the Yukon, ore exists an »ortion may, ition of such I in sufficient Uent summer and natural 0 country is •ting agricul- many years lal develop- |ch by far the the Alaskan Is and on that |of this report a list of the b the various [here to state, I* and that in labundnnce of ;)Osos of con- ker economic Itioof the country Fauna. The fauna of the region traversed by us, does not differ notably from Larger animals that of other parts of the northern country which are already mod- erately well known. There are, no doubt, many interesting points yet to be determined in respect to distribution, but our oppoitunities for obtaining information of this kind were very limited. The smaller black-tailed deer (Cariacus Columbianus) occurs on the islands of the southern portion of Alaska and the adjacent mainland coast, but is nowhere found on the inland side of the Coast Eangos. The mountain jfoat is moderately abundant in the Coast Kanges, and is also found in the mountainous inland regions, probably throughout. The big-horn or mountain sheep occurs, ^ogellier with the last-mentioned animal, on the mountains about the head of the Lewes and other parts of the inland spurs of the Coast Eanges, but does not inhabit the seaward portions of these ranges. It is also found generally in the mountains of the interior, including the Eocky Mountains. The moose is more or loss abundant throughout the entire inland region, and together with the caribou, which is similarly ubiquitous, constitutes a great part of the food of the Indians. We found the moose particularly plentiful along the Upper Liard Eivcr, and it is stated that the country drained by the White Eiver is noted among the Indians as a moose and beaver a-egion. The caribou is evci-ywhere common, but is scarcely seen in the valleys or lower country during , the summer, when it i-anges over the high, alpine moors and open slopes of the mountains. The black and grizzly bears roam over the entire legion and are often seen along the banks of the rivers in the latter part of the sum- mer when dead or dying salmon are to be obtained with ease. Wolves are not particularly abundant, but the cross-, black- and silver-fox are more than usually common. The smaller fur-bearing animals, being similar to those found SmaUer. generally in the northern parts of the contment, do not require »n««n«'8- separate enumeration. The entire Upper Yukon basin, however, yields furs of exceptionally high grade. Some notes as to the quantity of furs annually obtained from the region will be found in a subsequent paragraph (p. 28 b). Among a few skins brought back by us, is that of a mouse which Di-. 0. H. Merriam has found to be a now species, and has described under the name of Evotomys Dawsoni.^ The salmon ascend the Lewes Eiver as far as the lower end of Lake Salmon. Marsh, whore they were seen in considerable numbers early in Sep- * American Naturaliit, July, 1888. I'M li, "II S m w m «3' ■t' III I Ij 1 "ifl*^ t t i --I i 26 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH OOLUMBU. tember. They also, according to the Indiana, ran almost to the head- waters of the streams tribata'^,'^ to the Lewes on the east side. Salmon also run up the Pelly for a considerable distance above the mouth of the Lewes, but their precise limit on this river was not ascertained. The lakes and rivers generally throughout the country are well supplied with fish, and a small party on any of the larger lakes would run little risk of starvation during the winter, if provided with a couple of good gill-nets and able to devote themselves to laying in a stock of fish in the late autumn. Other fitheii. As might be anticipated from the interlocking of streams tri- butaiy to the Mackenzie and Yukon in this region, the fishes in both drainage-areas appear to be identical, so far as I was able to observe, with the exception of the salmon, which is, of course, confined to the Yukon tributaries. The principal fishes noticed are white-fish {Coregonus Nelsoni), lake trout (^Salvetinm NamaycuiK), grayling (Thy- mallus signifer), pike (Esox lucius), and sucker (Catostomus catostomus). The names above given are on the authority of Dr. T. H. Bean, of the U. S. Commission of Fish and Fisheries, who has very obligingly examined for me the photographs of fishes which were taken. No photograph, unfortunately, was obtained of the salmon seen on the Lewis, etc., but Dr. Bean informs me, from my description of its size, that he has little doubt it was the king salmon, Oncorhynchus chuicha. Imeoto. Appendix IV includes a list by Mr. James Fletcher, F.E.S.C, of the species of insects collected < Placer gold- mining. Mining and Minerals. Mining has so far been confined within the Cassiar district and in the Upper Yukon basin to the working of gold placers, and in the latter, almost entirely to river-bar mining, the inception of which indeed dates only from 1880. Particulars with reference to the rich cieeks of Cassiar will be found on page 83 b, and facts relating to the rivers tributarj^ to the Yukon on page 181 b. Almost all the large streams which have beon prospected in the Yukon basin have been found to yield placer gold in greater or less quantity and the aggregate length of the rivers thus already proved to afford gold is very great, but little has been done toward the examination of their innumerable smaller feeders. Similar river-bar mining on the Stikine and Liard rivers proceeded the discovery of the smaller creeks in which the richer de- posits of " heavy " gold were obtained, and a few miles in length each of Dease, Thibert and McDamo creeks produced the greater portion of the $2,000,000 worth of gold credited to Cassiar in 1874 and 1875. Discoveries similar to these may be expected to occur at any time in dAWION.] MINING AND MINEHALS. 2Tb the head- 3. Salmon outh of the ned. The ill supplied i run little iplaofgood : of fish in streams tri- \Q fishes in was able to rse, confined •e white-fish ayling {Thy- ! catostomm). Bean, of the y obligingly ) taken. No I seen on the D of its size, .us chuicha, E.S.C., of the the Yukon district, the generally auriferous area of which already proved is very much greater than that of Cassiar. Scarcely anything Mettiuferom has been done as yet even in the Cassiar district toward the search^""** for or proving of metalliferous veins, and practically nothing in the Yukon district, but there can be no reasonable doubt that such deposits exist.* The present activity in mining enterprise in the southern part of British Columbia will, before long, spread to this northern region also, and then, if not before, its valuable character as a portion of the metalliferous belt of the continent will be realized. The Yukon district with the northern part of British Columbia, mea- importanoe of sured from the vicinity of Dease Lake to the intersection of the Pellybeit. (Yukon) with the 141st meridian comprises a length of over 500 miles of the Cordillera belt of the west, which, wherever it has been examined, has ' een found rich in minerals and particularly in the deposits of the precious metals. The width of this particular part of the Cordillera belt is also great, as it appears, so fur as our explorations have gone, to extend from the coast to the eastern ranges of the Bocky Mountains in the vicinity of the Mackenzie River. This portion of the Cordillera region, together with that of the more southean part of British Columbia, gives an aggregate length of between 1200 and 1300 miles, almost exactly equal to the length of the same metalliferous belt con- tained by the United States, and in all probability susceptible of an eventual mining development equally great. In the northern districts here reported on, it is true that the winter Bearings of climate is a severe one, rendering the working season for ordinary Jiinj^*!,*"* placer-mines short and likely also to present some special difficulties in the way of " quartz mining." There is, however, on the other hand an abundance of wood and water, matters of great importance in connection with mining, and means of communication once provided, mining operations should be carried on hero at less cost than in dry and woodless regions such as are great portions of Arizona. Statistics of the former and present gold production of Cassiar arestatistioaof given in connection with that district, on page 82 B. It is difficult*" if not impossible to arrive at even an approximate statement of the total amount of gold which has been so far afforded by the Yukon district, but fx*om such enquiry as I was able to make in 1887, I estimated the value of gold obtained in that year at a minimum of $60,000 ; the number of men engaged in mining at 250. A specimen of asbestus (chrysotile) being part of a small vein of Asbestug. that material about half an inch in thickness, has been brought from * A speoiman of galena obtained from MoDame Creek, Caisiar, was found to contain 75 ounces of silver to the ton (see p. 86 b) and of seven specimens of vein stuff ouUeoted by us on the Upper Pelly and Lewes, flv9 proved to ooutain distinct traces of gold on assay. •5'), m M\ M ill ii t f'^ I I' 28 b TUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. i," I the Stewart Rivei*, and the occurrence of serpentine in large mass else- where, tends to show that workable asbestus deposits may yet be found in the region. Platinum. Platinum is found in small quantities along all or nearly all the tributaries of the Yukon, in association with the gold. It has also been observed in the Cassiar district. Fur Trade. BzporUoffure. Gold and furs are at present the only articles of value derived from the great region here referred to as the Yukon district. It is im- possible to secure accurate information as to the value of furs annually obtained, but sufficient is known to show that it must bo very consider- able. Petroif, in his report, states that the total annual value of the furs shipped by the Yukon probably docs not exceed $75,000, * and it is known that a great, if not the greater, portion of this total is derived from the region lying east of the 14l8t meridian. Dall states, that at the date of his visit (1867), the value of furs annually obtained at Fort Yukon, then maintained by the Hudson Bay Company, was not less than $50,000. Captain Raymond notc< that the total number of skins collected in 1869, at this place, v, ah stated ut 10,000, but adds that he believes this estimate to be excossive.f Practically the whole of these may be regarded as having been brought by Indians from the region east of the Alaskan line. An approximate estimate of the furs derived from Canadian territory and taken down the Yukon, obtained from Mr. Fran< ois Mercier, who spent many years trading on the river, places the annual value at about $27,000. The annual catch is made up, according to the same authority, about as follows : — Beaver 1200 to 1500 skins- Cross fox 100 " Black fox 100 " Redfox 300 *' Bear 300 " Marten 4000 " Otter 200 " Mink 2000 '« Lynx GOO " Wolverine 150 " Wolf 100 " 9350 " I * Report on the Population Indu^trien and Resources of Alaslca, p. 6, U. S. 10th Census, vol. viii. \ Op.eU. p. 115. OAWsor^.] ECONOMIC IMPORTANCE OP THE REGION. 29 b I maBS else- ot be found rly all the It has also erived from ;. It is im- tti-s annually cry consider- ue of the furs 0, * and it is ftl is derived tatcs, that at ained at Fort 8 not less than iber of skins )ut adds that whole of these the region |e furs derived ibtained from on the river, ;atch is made , lOth CensuB, vol. In addition, however, to the furs taken from the Yukon district by Routes of this route, the Hudson Bay Company obtains a large quantity of skins ''*'^'"' °^ '""' from their posts on the Porcupine, which roach the market by the Mackenzie River route. A certain number of skins derived from the country north of British Columbia is, further, annually traded at the littlo post at the mouth of Dease Biver, and taken out by the Stikine, A considerable quantity of furs also each year finds its way by the Chiikoot and Chilkat passes to the head of Lynn Canal, and some are brought down by the Taku River to the coast, though the greater part of these last is pr'^'^ably derived from the north-western corner of the province of British Columbia. Information obtained on the spot indi- cates that the value of the furs reaching Lynn Canal from the interior is from $12,000 to $15,000 annnally. Economic Importance of the Region. Without including the northern part of British Columbia, respecting vaiuoof the which more has already been made known, but restricting ourselves to^"*""* district, the great area of 192,000 square miles situated to the north of the 60th parallel and west of the Rocky Mountains, which I have referred to as the Yukon district, it may be said that the information novv obtained is sufficient to warrant a confident belief in its great value. Very much yet remains to be learned respecting it, but it is known to be rich in furs, well supplied with timber, and it is traversed by a great length of navigable rivers. It is already yielding a considerable yearly product in gold, and presents every indication of a country rich as well in other metals, and including deposits of coal. In its southern portion, situated between the 60th and 65th degrees of latitude, is comprised an area of probably not less than 30,000 square miles, suitable for eventual agricultural occupation, and presenting none of the characters of a sub-Arctic region, which have, in advance of its exploration, been attributed to it by some writers. In each of these particulars and in climate it is greatly superior to the corresponding inland portion of the territory of Alaska. It may, in fact, bo affirmed with little room for doubt, that the region hero spoken of as the Yukon district surpasses in material resources the whole remaining northern interior portion of the continent between the same parallels of latitude. The winter climate of the whole of this great region is known to bo hothermai linGS a severe one, and its northern extremity lies within the Arctic circle, but it must bo remembered that the climatic conditions on tho western and eastern sides of the continent are by no means comparable, and that the isothermal lines, representing the mean annual temperature, lil ii 30 b YUKON UISTBIOT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Comparison with provinoe of Vologda. nitimate deTelopment amnrea. trend not westwai-d but north-westward from the Manitoba region. The lines, in particular, which would represent the mean summer tem- perature would assume, in the far north-west, a proximate parallelism with the Pacific coast, instead of tending to follow lines of latitude. It is needless here to recapitulate the well known causes which produce this remarkable difference in climate, but the lines as already approxi- mately drawn upon the maps, represent in a generalized form the aggregate of influences which, working together, produce at the site of old Fort Selkirk on the 63rd parallel of latitude in the Upper Yukon basin, an attractive landscape, decked with well-grown forests and with intervening slopes of smiling meadow, while in the same latitude in Hudson Strait we find, even at midsummer, merely a barren waste of rocks and ice. To instance a region which reproduces the general conditions of the Yukon district and adjacent northern portions of British Columbia, we must turn to the inland provinces of Hussia, to which allusion has already been made in connection with climatic features, (p. 23 b.) The province of yologda,in European Russia, appears to offer the nearest par- allel. It is circumstanced relatively to the western shores of Europe, as is this district to the western shores of the North American continent. Its area is 155,498 square miles, situated between the 58th and 65th degrees of latitude. The climate in both cases is a continental one, in which severe winters alternate with warm summers, and the actual degrees of cold and heat, so far as our information goes, are not dis- imilar. There is no very heavy rainfall in either region, such as we find near the western coasts bordering on the Atlantic and on the Pacific respectively. The agricultural products from the province of Vologda are oats, rye, barley, hemp, flax and pulse. The mineral products comprise salt, copper, iron and marble, but the precious metals do not appear to be important, as in the Yukon district. Horses and cattle are reared, and the skins of vf.rious wild animals, as well as pitch and turpentine, are among the exports. The population of the province is stated at 1,161,000. While the Yukon district and the northern portion of British Colum- bia are at present far beyond the limits of ordinary settlement, we may be prepared at any time to hear of the discovery of important mineral deposits, which will affoi-d the necessary impetus, and may result, in the course of a few years, in the introduction of a consider- able population into even its most distant fastnesses. To-day it may well be characterized by the term which has been employed in connec- tion with the Mackenzie basin, a portion of " Canada's Great Reserve." It appears meanwhile eminently desirable that we should encourage and facilitate, in so far as may be possible, the eflbrts of the miners DAWMN.J GENERAL OEOLOOT. 31 B ba region, nmer tem- )aralleU8in Ititude. It ;h produce ly approxi- i form the at the site the Upper i forests and ,me latitude arren waste itions of the olumhia, we allusion has 23 b.) The ) nearest par- jf Europe, as %n continent. Jth and 65th lental one, in ,d the actual I are not dis- , such as we and on the province of JThe mineral ho precious pict. Horses lIs, as well as [lation of the I'itish Colum- Ittlement, we If important IS, and may a consider- L-day it may Ld in connec- ]at Reserve." encourage the miners and others who constitute our true pioneers in the region, and to whom, in conjunction with the fur companies and traders, the peaceful conquest of the whole of our Great West has been due. In the future, there is every reason to look forward to the time when this country will support a large and hardy population, attached to the soil and making the utmost of its resources. General Geoloqt. In a reconnaissance carried out along a single line, in which Digicuitiesof the greater part of one's time is necessarily occupied in overcoming**'®^"''*' the difficulties of the route and in securing the necessary geographi- cal data, it is difficult to obtain any very complete knowledge of a region geologically complicated. In the present case this difficulty is increased by the circumstance that the geology of the corresponding portion of the Cordillera beK in the southern part of British Columbia, is as yet very imperfectly underetood, though considerable attention has been devoted to it; while with respect to the older rocks of the analogous region in the western part of the United States very little published information of a systematic kind is available. Speaking broadly, howevei-, and with reference to the general fea- general tures of the region, the rock-series lepresented are evidently similar to British"^ those found in the southern portion of British Columbia between the ^°''"°'"*" Rocky Mountains and the coast, and an important general result of the work here reported on, is the further demonstration of the great constancy in lithological charactcrs«of the several formations, when followed in the direction of the main north-west and south-east axes of uplift — a constancy which contrasts markedly with the diveraity found when comparisons are made as between localities situated at right angles to this direction. The Coast Range!», where traversed by the valley of the Stikine, and" Rocks of the again where crossed still further north by the Chilkoot Pass, are found ^"**' ^°'"'- to consist, for the most part, of granite and granitoid rocks, almost invariably of gray colour and frequently rich in hornblende. With these are occasionally included stratified or stratiform masses of raica- and hornblende-schists, and both these and the granites are frequently traversed by pegmatite veins, diabase dykes and intrusive masses of coarse diorite. The schistose portions of these ranges may possibly* represent the still recognisable remnants of rocks of Archaean age, or may be merely portions of much newer series which have suffered extreme alteration. No demonstration of the date of the origin of the granitic rocks of the Coast Ranges was obtained in this region, but there is every reason m \ I ■ 1 32 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. •r ' j? Rooks of t le (ioast arohipelego« General features of coast belt. Formations of the interior region. to believe that it is comparatively recent, and due to a time lying be- tween the Triassic and the Cretaceous, as has been found to bo the case with their continuation to the south, near the northern part of Van- couver Island. ^ The argillites of Wrangell, together with those met with near Juneau, and at Siti™t,on«^ Analogy with the southern do, L T^ ^''''' ^°^° ^^^^ases. Present unable to sepai-ate frnrn T^ ' ''^'' ^"^ ^^ich wo 2 1 «'Oo„ne,i -Of foirof .hX t IT' ^^""^ *-v^-y"h;'r ^o unconformity has been 1^ ^ ^^^ report. * ^«k unlos 'V ?™;;'r'°''''"''«''««°"or»ysrX"^^^^^^ 'SeeSum^ITT ^ ___^J--«i80me doubt as to 1- I ,^4 I ■•Li I Ctooloiioal BOtaa on nap. Intorior Knmitio axes. pr'^'j '"■ t tii Oonnezion of ■old with the rookieriM. 34 b TUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. it really constitutes a lower member of the series or whether it may re- present some of the other members — particularly the rocks of volcanic origin — in a highly altered state, as seems, from late observations, to be the case with rocks of similar appearance in southern British Columbia. The proximity of the rocks classed under the first sub-divisioi. to certain granitic axes is equally explicable on either hypothesis. It must also be added that there appears to be a recurrence of rock materials originally volcanic in greater or lees force in several parts of the series, and that important beds of serpentine occur at one or more horizons. For the purpose of assisting future more complete enquiry, and in view of the tentative character of the classification here offered, the more important details observed are noted on the face of the map accompanying this report, for which it would be premature to attempt a geological colouring. The preponderantly Palaeozoic floor ct'the region east of the granites of the Coast Ranges, is broken through on two main lines by granitic axes. The first of these is cut across by the Dease Eiver, a short dis- tance below Dease Lake, and was again met with — over 300 miles north- westwai-d — on the Pelly near the mouth of the Macmillan. Though re- ferred to as a single granitic axis, this uplift probably consists rather of a series of alternating and more or less irregularly shaped granitic masses, which, however, preserve a general alignment. There are on the Upper Pelly in fact three separate granitic ridges in place of the single one mot with on the Dease. In close association with these granites arc some gneissic rocks and holocrystalline mica- and hornblende-schists, which have not been referred to in previous paragi*apbs as they are regai*ded as probably Archajan, rather thr-n as representing highly altered Palaeozoic rocks. A small tongue of granite occurs on the Lewes a few miles above the mouth of the Little Salmon, which may be con. nected with the south-western side of this granitic axis, but with this ex. ception its continuity between the Dease and Pelly is indicated merely by the statement of Mr. J. McCormick that gianites and mica-schists occur on tbe south-west side of Quiet Lake and near the Big Salmon Eiver, below that lake. Its fui-ther extension in a north-westerly bearing is, however, proved by the occurrence of a great preponder- ance of rocks of the same character in the collection made by Mr. Ogilvie* on the lower Pelly or Yukon, between the mouth of the Lewes and Forty-mile Creek. On comparing the position of this irregular granitic axis and its surrounding altered rocks (in part referable to several of the Palroozoic sub-divisions previously described) with that of the richer deposits of I * Sent out by him in oharge of the latest party of miners in the autumn of 1887. OAWtON.] GENERAL GEOLOOT. 35 b itmayre- ,f volcanic ions, to be Columbia, livisioi! to L8. It must toaterials the series, or more liry, and in offered, the of the map s to attempt the granites 1 by granitic a short clis- miles north- Though re- lists vather of iped granitic leroareouthe of the single le granites aro llende-schists, as they are Inting highly Ion the Lewea may be con. with this ex. seated merely mica-schists Big Salmon jrth-westerly kt prepondcr- Imade by Mr. of the Lewes axis and its the Palffiozoic jr deposits of 87. placer gold so far discovered and worked, it will be found that they are closely associated. The chief placers and river-bai's ai'o, in fact, scattered along this line or belt, and extend, like it, all the way from Dease Lake and McDame Creek to Forty-mile Creek. Evidence was moreover found on the Pelly, to show that the development of quartz veins in the Palaeozoic rocks had occuiTed contemporaneously with the upheaval of the gi'anites, and probably by some action superinduced by the granite masses themselves while still in a formative condition. While catting the stratified rocks, the quartz-veins seldom or never cut the granite masses in this district. These observations should afford nn important clue to the further search for auriferous ground, as well as for the lodes from which the placer gold has itself been derived. Of the second gi-anitic axis of the interior region very little is yet Granites of known, but it is probable that it is still less regular in character than lu^g". * the last. It occurs in the mountainous region to the east of Frances Lnke and River, and probably also in the vicinity of the Pelly Lakes (see p. 121 b). Its lithological charactei-s and those of the rocks in its neighborhood are similar to those of the last described, and here again in its vicinity, on Frances Lake and on the Liard (pp. 105 b, 113 b) paying gold placers have been found. The district is, however, so difficult of access that it can scarcely as yet be said to have been at all prospected. I am inclined to believe that the two granitic axes of the interior ^geofg^j^nn^ region abovy described ai'e of much greater age than that of the Coast Eanges. The reasons for assigning a comparatively late date to the latter have already been alluded to. It is found, too, that while the stratified rocks usually conform to an ascending order in receding from those granitic axes, there is evidence along the north-eastern flanks of the Coast Ranges of an irregular line of junction, and though on the Stikino the Paleeozoic rocks appear to rest upon the granites of the Coast Eanges, the supposed lower members of the soj'ies are not seen, while on the lakes near the head of the Lewo.s some of the upper por- tions of the Palreozoic are directly in contact with and hv\ c apparently been broken through by the granites. The granitoir) ocks of the interior region are, moreover, ditt'orent in general a;>[»oaranco from those of the Coast Ranges, and resemble more closely the probably Archaean granites of the Gold Ranges in southern British Colombia, Lithologically the granites and granitoid rocks of the Coast Rangee Litboiogiofti aio f^enorally freeh and unaltered in appearance, grey in colour and not often distinctly foliated, while those of the ranges, of the interior show evidence of considerable alteration subsequent to their formation, aro more higlily quartzoso and often reddish in tint. Some particulars respecting a few of the granites of the region which has been microp- copically examined by Mr. F. D. Adams will bo found in Appendix V. II . 36 B YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Crtt""«ou8 and Laramie rooks. Cretaceous of Lake Labargo. Cretaceou!< of Upper Polly. Besides the Triacsic rocks previously referred to, the Mesozoic period is represented also by strata of Cretaceous and Laramie age. These rocks are distinctively more recent in appearance than, and rest quite unconformably on all the older formations, though they have since been to some extent involved in their flexures. On the lower part of the Lewes, below the mouth of the Little Salmon, these rocks are cut across by the river for a distance of at least thirty-five miles. Some fossil mol- luscs and plants have been obtained from this area, from which it would appear to include beds referable to the Middle or Lower Cre- taceous and to the Laramie period (p. 146 b), and it is not improbable that the series is a consecutive one between these limits, as the total thickness repiesented must be very great. The strike of these beds varies much in direction, and the angles of dip are so irregular that no even proximate estimate of thickness could be formed, and it is impos- sible to arrive at any definite conclusion with respect to the trend of the basin in which they lie. The rocks comprise, in their lower por- tion, coarse conglomerates, grauwacke-sandstones, yellowish and iney quartzose sandstones and dark calcareous slates. The upper portion, in which Laramie plants are found, consists chiefly of rather M>tt sand- stones, shales and clays, generally of pale colours. Evidence ol con- temporaneous volcanic action is observable in both parts of the series, and the higher beds include lignite-coal of good quality (p. 148 b). Some miles further up the Lewes, midway between the Little and Big Salmon rivers, peculiar green, grauwacke-sandstones and green, highly calcareous conglomerates occur, which are also provisionally referred, though with some doubt, to the Cretaceous. They are at least newer than the Palceozoic rocks, being composed of fi-agments of these and of the granites. Conglomerates and sandstones similar to the last arc agftin found near the lowei* end of Lake Labarge, on the east side, and are asso- ciated with black calcareous slates, which recur in sevoi-al places along the hatne side of the lake, further up, and from which a few fossils have been obtained. These seem to show that the beds are on or near the horizon of Series C. of the Queen Charlotte Islands, which is of| Middle Cretaceous age, approximately equivalent to the Gault (p. 168 b). On the Upper Pelly River, forty-three miles below Iloole Cailon, aj single low outcrop of hard, dai'k shales, containing fossil plants otj Cretaceous or Laramie, age was found, but in the absence of further! exposures along the river in that vicinity, nothing can be said of the! extent of this area, except that it must be quite limited in widtlil Again, on the Stikine Eiver, between Glenora and Telegraph Crcckl there are local occurrences of conglomerates and soft sandstones wbioli| k.^x OAWSON.] GENERAL GEOLOGY. 37 b .Br Mesozoic •amie age. n, and rest have since part of the 5 cut across ! fossil mol- n which it Lower Ore- improbablo aft the total ^ these beds rular that no i it is iropos- the trend of )iv lower por- iph and irrey pper portion, hcrM>ttsand- iden«c ol oon- I of the series, ^p. 148 b). [he Little and CB and green, provisionally They ave at fragments of tc again found and are asso- x\ places along a few fossils' J are on or neui! \U, which is «f| the Gault (p. iloole Cailon, «[ fossil plants otj l-nce of further! , be said of the! fiitod in widtlil [egraph Croacitic slope, e Kwichpak hat vicinity Lion, and the e portion of 1 summarized that at one |on— a great named tho and Kocky Jl this great Itward movo- iciers. The fflacier, in J Dresden, 1884. {giaaX Magazine. NaturaliBt.vol- Washington and Idaho Territories, have quite recently been examined by Mr. Bailley Willis and Prof. T. C. Chamberlin of the U. S. Geo- logical Survey,* and their observations tend to confirm the views above outlined, which had^ previously been stated by the writer. There is, further, evidence to show that this inland-ice flowed also, by tranverse valleys and gaps, across the Coast Eanges, and that the fiords of the coast were thus deeply filled with glacier-ice, which, supplemented by that originating on the Coast Eanges themselves, buried the entire great valley which separates Vancouver Island from the mainland, and discharged seawai-d round both ends of the island. Further north, the glacier extending fi'om the mainland coast touched the northern shores of the Queen Charlotte Islands. The observed facts on which these general statements are based have been fully detailed in the publica- tions already referied to, and it is not here necessary to review former work in the region, further than to enumurate the main features developed by it, and to connect these with the observations made dur- ing the summer of 1887, in the more northern region described in the present report. The littoral of tho south-eastern part or " coast strip " of Alaska, pre- oiaclation of sents features identical with those of the previously examined coast of British Columbia, at least as far north as lat. 59°, beyond which I have not seen it. The coast archipelago has evidently been involved in the border of a confluent glacier which spread from the mainland and was subject to minor variations in direction of flow dependent on surface irregularities, in the manner described in my report on the northern nart of Vancouver Island, t N"o conclusive evidence was here found, however, in the valley of the Stikine Kiver or in the pass leading in- land from the head of Lvnn Canal, to show that the inland-ice moved seaward across the Coast Ranges, though analogy with the coast to tho south favours the belief that it may have done so. Tho front of tho glacier must have passed the outer border of the archipelago, as at Stika, well-marked glaciation is found pointing toward tho open Pacific ;|; (average direction about S. 81° VV. astr.). It is, however, in the interior rei^ion, explored and examined by aiaoiation of us in 1887, between the Coast Ranges and the Rocky Mountains region'." ""^ proper, and extending northward to lat, 63°, that the most in- teresting facts have come to light respecting the direction of move- ment of the Cordilleran glacier. Here, in the valleys of tho Upper Pelly and Lewes, traces were found of the movement of heavy ' Bulletin U S. Geol. Survey. No. 40, 1887. t Annual Report Oool. Surv. Canada, 1885, p. 100 B. t Mr. G. F. Wiight has already given similar general statements with regard to thii part of till' Coast of Alaska, Amorioan Naturalist, Muroh, 1887. W- f- % i: if ' ' ^flf»v» 40 b TOKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Deposits of the vlaoial period. Mastodon remains. glacier-ice in a northerly direction. Eock-surfaces thus glaciated were observed down the Pelly to the point at which it crosses the 136th meridian and on the Lewes as far north as lat. 61° 40', the main direction in the first-named valley being north-west, in the second north-north-west. The points referred to are not, however, spoken of as limiting ones, for rock exposures suitable for the preservation of glaciation are rather infrequent on the lower portions of both rivers, and more extended examination may result in carrying evidence of the .same kind further toward the less elevated plains of the Lower Yukon, as elsewhere detailed. Neither the Pelly valley nor that of the Lewes is hemmed in by high mountainous country except toward the sources, and while local vaiiaiions in direction ai-e met with, the glaciation is not susceptible of explanation by merely local agents, but implies the passage of a confluent or more or less connected glacier over the i*egion. On Lake Labarge, in the Lewes valley, both the sides and summits of rocky hills 300 feet above the water wore found to be heavily glaciated, the direction on the summit being that of the main (north- north west) orographic valleys, while that at lower levels in the sanae vicinity followed more nearly the immediate valley of the river, which here turns lo.cally to the east of north. Glaciation was also noted in several places in the more mountainous country to the south of the Yukon basin, in the Dease and Liard valleys, but the direction of movement of the ice could not be determined satis- factorily, and the influence of local action is there less certainly elim- inated. While the greater part of the area traversed is more or less com- pletely mantled with glacial deposits, it will be observed, in referring to subsequent pages, that true boulder-clay was found in certain parts only of the southern and more mountainous portion of the region, whilo it spreads over almost the entire length of the Upper Pelly and liovves valleys, though not found exposed quite to their con- fluence. The boulder-chiy generally passes upward into, and is covered by, important silty beds, analogous to the silts of the Nechacco basin, further south in British Columbia, and to those of the Peace Eivor country to the east of the Rocky Mountains. It may bo stated also that the country is generally terraced to a height of 4000 feet or more, while on an isolated mountain-top near the height of land be- tween the Liard and the Polly rivers (Pacific-Arctic watershed) rullod gravel of varied origin was found at a height of 4:^00 feet, a height ex- cooiHng that of the actual watershed by over 1000 feet. No remains of mastodon or mammoth were observed in the country traversed by us, but according to Campbell such remains occur not far DAW(ON.] GENEBAL GEOLOGT. 41 B from the site of Fort Selkirk, and they are known to be moderately abundant at points further down the river. Sir J, Bichardson speaks of a tibia of Elepkas primigenius sent to England by Roderic (Robert) Campbell from this region.* Reverting to the statements made as to the direction of the general General facu glaciation, the examination of this northern region may now be con-" * " ® * sidered to have established that the main gathering-ground or nive of what I have called the great Cordilleran glacier or confluent glacier mass of the west coast, was included between the 55th and 59th parallels of latitude, a roijjion which, so far as explored, has proved to be of an exceptionally mountainous character. It would further appear that this great glacier extended, between the Coast Ranges and the Rocky Mountains, south-eastward nearly to lat. -18°, and north-westward to lat. 63°, or beyond, while sending also smaller streams to the Pacific Coast. In connection with the northerly dii-ection of ice-flow here ascertained, Other instances it is interesting to recall the observations which I have collected in a glaciation- recently published report of the Geological Survey, relating to the northern portion of the continent east of the Mackenzie River.f It is there stated that for the Arctic coast of the Continent, and the Islands of the Archipelago off" it, there is a considerable volume of evidence to show that the main direction of movement of erratics was northward. The most striking facts are those derived from Prof. S. Haughton's Appendix to M'Clintock's Voyage, whore the occurrence is described of boulders and pebbles from North Somerset, at localities 100 and 135 miles north-eastward and north-westward from their supposed points of origin. Prof Haughton also states that the east side of King-William's Land is strewn with boulders of gneiss like that of Montreal Island, to the southward, and points out the general northward ice-movement thus indicated, referring the carriage of the boulders to floating-ice of the glacial period. The copper said to be picked up in large masses by the Eskimo, near Princess-Royal Island, in Pjince-t)f- Wales Strait, as well as on Prince-of Waies Island, % has likewise, in all probabilitj' boi^n derived from the eopper-bejir'ing rocks of the Coppermine River region to the south, as this metal can scarcely be supposed to occur in place in the region of horizontal limestone where it is found. Dr. A. Armstrong, Surgeon and Na'uralist to the Inrestigator, notes the occurrence of granite and other crystalline rocks not only on the south shore of Baring Land, but also oi\ the hills at some dintance * Am. Journ. Sci. and Arts, vol. xix., 1855, p. 132. t Notes to accompany a Geological Map ot tho Northern Portion of tlio Dominior East of the Rocky Mr .ntains, p. 67 R., Annual Report Ueol. Surv. Can., 1886- t Do Ranoe, in Nature, vol. zi. p- 492. Canada V — i 1 1 I 42 b TUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. M.'' from the shore. These, from what is known of the region, must be supposed to have come from the continental land to the south- ward. Dr. Bessels, again, remarks on the abundance of boulders on the shore of Smith's Sound in lat. 81° 30', which are manifestly derived from known localities on the Greenland coast much further southward, and adds : " Drawing a conclusion from such observations, it becomes evident that the main line of the drift, indicating the direction of its motion, runs from south to north."* It may further be mentioned that Dr. E. Bell, has found evidence of a northward or north-eastward movement of glacier ice in the northern part of Hudson Bay, with distinct indications of eastward glaciationin Hudson Strait, f For the northern part of the great Mackenzie valley we are as yet without any definite published information, but Sir J. Bichardson notes that Laurentian boulders are scattered west- ward over the nearly horizontal limestones of the district. Two great Taken in conjunction with the facts for the more northern portion giaoier-masses. ^f ^he continent, already pretty well known, the observations here out- lined would appear to indicate a general movement of ice outward, in all directions, from the great Laurentian axis or plateau which extends from Labrador round the southern extremity of Hudson Bay to the Arctic Sea; while a second, smaller, though still very important region of dispersion — the Cordilloran glacier-mass — occupied the Eocky Mountain region on the west, with the northern and southern limits above approximately given, and a length, in a north-west and south-east direction, of at least 1200 mile It is inexpedient at the present moment to enter into any detailed discussion of the glaciation of the extreme north-west, as Mr. Mc- Connell's observations, made in the prosecution of his portion of the work of the expedition, are likely to add much to our store of facts bearing on the subject, jj . It may be added, that while the study of the phenomena of the glacial importonoe of period is one not without its bearings on economic problems even in the eastern pai-t of the continent, it has, in British Columbia and the Yukon district, a direct value in its connection with the distribution of the placer gold deposits and on the existence and position of the buried channels of rivers and streams, in which some of the ricnest of those deposits are often found to occur. Thus the greater part of the " fine " gold found along the river- bars and banks of the larger streams in the Yukon disti'ict is doubtless proximately derived from the gravels •Nature, vol. ix. t Annual Report Qeol. Surv. Canada, 1885, p. 14 D.D. and Report of Progress, 1882-84, p. 8G D.D. DAWSON.] OENBRAL OEOLOOr. 43 b and other superficial deposits in which those streams have re-excavatey massive granite cliffs, 200 to 300 feet in height, above which, on the west side, rugged mountain slopes vise. On the east, are low rocky hills representing part of a former spur of the mountain, through Avhicl', the caiion has been cut. A tract of low land sopai-alcs these hills Irom the eastern side of the main valley, and it is difficult to explain under what circumstances the river has taken its present course. For some distance above the Little Caiion the Stickine valley appears y ,, , to cut very obliquely through a series of somewhat irregularly parallel ^''^•''f''*'''"'"- ranges. Eight miles further up is the "Kloochman Cailon," which to some extent repeats the features of the last, but it is nearly 300 feet in wiiith and otters no impediment to navigation. At lour miles above the "Kloochman Caflon" )d the so-called "Grand Rapid," which, in con- 60(juonce of recent changes in the river, is now by no means formid- -'i/ iU-'-".!" H ill lakoot River. Sond River. Clearwater River. irst Soutti 'ork. 50 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. able, though the water is still particularly swift and the river wide and shallow. Here the valley begins very markedly to open out, the mountains retiring further from the river and decreasing in altitude, while irregular, basaltic bills, of no great height appear between the river and the bases of the mountains. This, taken in conjunction with the dry climate which characterizes the country to the east of the mountains, and the fact that most of the slopes have been bared of timber by fire, gives an entirely different aspect to the landscape. The Stikine is joined by some important tributaries in the part of its course above described, though none of these have yet been examined in detail. The Iskoot or Skoot, which flows in from the eastwai'd about thirty-five miles from the mouth, or just within the locally cul- minating range of the Coast Mountains, is known to be navigable for some distance by canoes, and one branch is said to head not far from the extremity of Portland Canal, to the southward. By following this river to its head and there maJcing a portage, the Indians are reported to be able to reach the Nass Eiver without difficulty. The Iskoot has been prospected by a few miners, but apparently without any notable result, though the l.idians report the occurrence of coal. The northern branch of the Iskoot, to the east of the Coast Mountains, was traversed in 1867 by P. J. Leech, of the Western Union Telegraph Exploration Survey, who crossed from it to the head of the First South Fork of the Stikine. The valley is there reported to be from 2500 to 3700 feet above sea-level, generally timbered, but with some open, grassy slopes. About seven miles below the Little Cailon, the valley of the Scud Eiver opens to the east, but the exact position of the mouth of the stream has not been fixed on the map. Some gold has been found by prospeotoi-8 on this stream, but no workable placer deposits. It is said to head in a low country behind the Coast Mountains, and if this bo correct, must nearly inosculate with branches of the Iskoot and First South Fork of the Stikine. Six miles above "Kloochman Canon," the Clearwater River enters the Stikine on the west side, by several mouths. This is a stream of considerable size, and is navigable for canoes for some distance. It is said to head near the sources of one branch of the Taku River, and is noted by the Indians on account of the great number of salmon which ascend it. The First South Fork joins the Stikine about a mile and d-half below Telegraph Creek, It is a large turbid stream, and for a number of miles from the main river, flows in a rough narrow gorge, between high hills and mounlains. Further up, accoi*ding to the Teleginph Exploration sketch, it is bordered by level, partly timbered teri'aces or OAWSON.] THE STIKINE RIVER. 51 B " benches." The summit between its head-waters and those of the Iskoot, on the route followed by Mr . Leech, is given on his authority at 5000 feet. Salmon do not ascend this stream. Telegraph Creek is an inconsiderable stream, which falls rapidly to Telegraph the river through a narrow rocky cleft in the boi-dering hills of the Qi^nonu right or north-west bank of the Stikine. Its name is duo to the fact that here the Western Union Telegraph line was intended to cross the Stikine. The little town of Telegraph Creek occupies the narrow ielta of the stream and the lower terraces bordering it on both sides, its site being identical with that of " Fort Mumford " of the older maps. Glenora, twelve miles below Telegraph Creek and on the same side of the Stikine, consists of a single row of houses built along the edge of the river at the foot of a steep bank. Both places were at one time busy little towns, but are at present very much reduced in importance, though I believe it will probably not be long before further mining developments in the Cassiar district will lead to the renewal of their activity. Glaciers. The glaciers constitute one of the most vcmarkable features of this ProTious notei part of the Stikine valley. There are a number of these on both sides **" '*'® Biaoien. of the river, in its lower part ; but four only of special importance, all of which are situated to the west of the river, and all but the first on the eastern slopes of the most massive central ranges of the mountainous region. The only detailed previous notice of these glaciers is that given in a report by W. P. Blake.* Mr. Blake's account of the glaciers is transcribed in the Fifth Annual Report of the United States Geological Survey, where it is placed under the some- what misleading title of Glaciers of "Alaska." Two of the glaciers are illustrated in the last-mentioned volume by reproductions of photo- graphs taken under the direction of Dr. J. W. Powell, Superintendent of Indian Affairs in British Columbia. That named the " Orlebur (ilacier" represents part of the front of the Great Glacier of the miners and of Mr. Blake's map. The "Bernard Glacier" I am unable to identify with any certainty, but the illustrations evidently repre- sents part of either the Flood or Dirt Glacier. Mr. John Muir, who spent some time on the Stikine in 1879, gives an interesting popular description of its glaciers in a letter dated from Sitka in December of that year, and published in the San Francisco Bulletin. Mr. Muir informs me thai no more systematic account of his oljHon'ations in this region has yet been made public. The glaciers terraces or ^M '('cogfraphioal notes upon Russian America and the Stikeen River. W. P. Blake, WaaliinRton, ^" Ouvernment. 1868. ( ^ I Little Olaoier. Oreat Olacier. B«cemion of the glacier. 52 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. are also noticed at some, length in an account of a trip on the Stikine by Mr. W. H. Bell in Scribner's Monthly, 1879, Vol. XVII. The accom- panying illustrations, though striking and artistic, have been idealized so fill" as to be scarcely recognizable. The glacier known as the First or Little Glacier by the miners (named the Popoff Glacier by Blake) fills a high valley on the north side of the river, about ten miles from its mouth. As seen from a dis- tance it offei'8 no features of particular interest, resembling many othei* minor glaciers of the Coast Mountains. The next and most important glacier, is that universally known on the river as the Great Glacier, and so named also by Mr. Blake, who gives an excellent description of its main features. The high snow-tields from which this glacier must take its rise are not seen from the river, the glacier entering the wide valley of the Stikine nearly at righi angles, through a break in the mountains two to three miles distant from the river bank. Before entering the Stikine valley, the glacier has a width estimated at from one- half to three-quarters of a mile, but upon freeing.' itself from the bor- dering mountains inimedTately expands in a fan-like manner, its actual front upon the river being from three to three and a-half miles in width. The slope of the surface of the glacier where it issues from the mountains was estimated — as seen at right angles — at above five degrees. Beyond this point it flattens out, and portions of the surface become extremely rugged, breaking off near the front in series of descending steps, as described by Mr. Blake. When seen by us, on the 20th of May, much of the surface was still covered by the new snow of the preceding winter, but notwithstanding this, a great quan- tity of I'ocky debris was visible, giving a grey tint to portions of the ice. The front of the glacier appears to be quite close to the edge of the river, but is actually about a third of a mile distant at the nearest points. This interval is occupied by moraines and marshy pools, the outer tier of moraines, or that nearest to the rivej', forming wooded hills about one •hundred and fifty feet high. The newer moraines were partly covered and overridden by the front of the decaying ice. Lai'go streams issue from beneath the ice, the position of outflow frecjuenlly changing from year to year. Next to its size, the most remarkable feature about tliis glacier is the regularity of the fan-like form in which it t.erminht<^8. It resembles in this respect \.ho Davidson Glacier on Lynn Canal. The miners state, that during the few years which they have known the Stikine the Great Glacier has steadily and notably receded, though the total amount of such recession can evidently not have been more than the distance from the wooded bordering-moiaine to the present OAWSON.J THE STIKINE RIVER. 53 b e Stikine 16 accom- idealized le miners the north •om a dis- ^any othev niversally i also by features. 8 rise are ley of the mountains ■e entering from one- m the bor- ', its actual If miles in 38 from the above five the surface n series of by us, on )y the new ;reat quan- fions of the |the edge of he nearest pools, the [ng wooded |r moraines [caying ice. of outflow (his glacier lnNt<^8. It Jtnal. lave known led, thougli been more the present ice-front. The Indians relate aa a tradition, that at a former period the glacier stretched completely across the valley, the Stikine passing beneath the ice through a tunnel-like opening. It is, however, im- possible to determine whether this is a remembered fact or a fancied inference. Curiously enough, a copious hot spring is situated imme- diately opposite the glacier on the east side of the Stikine valley. Ten miles above the Great Glacier, and also on the west side of the Dirt Glacier, valley, is the Dirt Glacier, so named by the miners because of the great quantity of rocky debris with which its sui'face is covered.* This is much smaller than the last, having a width estimated at a quarter of a mile, but possibly greater than this. Like the Great Glacier, it comes quite down on the river-flats. The last important glacier, sixteen miles still further up the river, is Flood Glacier, the Flood Glacier. This also comes down to the level of the river-flats, but does not closely approach the river. From the valley of this glacier a great rush of water occurs almost every year towards the end of the summer. This, no doubt, arises from the blocking by the glacier of the mouth of some lateral valley in which a lake is formed and from time to time breaks through the glacier dam. The quan- tity of water thus liberated is so great as to raise the river from a low stage to half-flood level for a short time. There is a large quantity of debris also on this glacier, though less than on the last. Geological Notes on the Stikine. The only information as to the geology of the Stikine, up to the j^j^ gj^^^.g present time, has been that embodied in notes in Mr. Blake's report, f'^^^"'*''"'*'' already referred to,f and these include the lower portion of the river alone, as his furthest point was a few miles above the Little Caiion. The results of Mr. Blake's e.^amination are by himself summed up in the following terms : — " The mountains of the Stikine valley, from the Little Caiion down to near the coast, are formed of syenite and granite, with some inetamorphic beds at intervals. The walls of the Little Caiion are granite. At the mouth of the river, and below the Indian villages, the roekw are quite ditt'erent, being formed of ' the great eandstone and shale formation already described. The direction of uplift of these strata is about N. 80° W. magnetic. This formation is some thousands of feet thick, and rcsembLes the rocks of San Francisco, but is more changed by motamorphic action. They arc probably of the secondary period. It appears to pass into mica- * Also 80 named on skotoli map in Report on Customs District, Public Service and Resources of Alaska Territory, by W. O. Morris, 187!). t Mr. lilake's notes on the geology of the river are also given in Petermanns Mitteiiungen, vol. X, 1801. I 4 W(Z 54 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Rooks of Wrugell Iflud.. Rooks at month of river. Garnets. m Rothsay Point to Great Glaoier. Rooks brouKht down by the glaoier. slate just above the site of an old stockade or fort of the Hudson Bay Company, where I found a locality of garnets like those of Monroe, in Connecticut."* The rocks seen along the west shore of Wrangell Island, in the vicin- ity of the town and hai-bor, are chiefly black, flaggy argilliles, remark- ably uniform and regular in their bedding and with a westward dip. They are considerably indurated and contain small staurolite crystals in some layers, while on the surface of others crystals of mica have been developed. Similar rocks are found on other parts of the coast, both to the north and south, and from a lithological point of view, they much i-esemble the Triassic argillites of the Queen Charlotte Islands, thoi^gh no fossils were found at this place. The ridge behind the town of Wrangell is chiefly composed of rather tine-grained grey granite, which is probably intrusive and may have been the cause of the incipient crystallization observed in the argillites. The north point of the island is formed of similar granite, probably a continuation of the same mass. On crossing to the mainland, to the eastward, mica-schists and gran- ites are met with, and beyond Eothsay Point (which may be regarded as the entrance to the Stikino River) granitic rocks only were seen for some miles. Near Rothsay Point, hi a short distance from the shore, is the locality fi'om which ai'e obtained fine claret-colored garnet crys- tals, sometimes an inch or more in diameter. The matrix of these, as seen in hand specimens, is a dark, highly crystalline mica-schist, but the locality was not visited. The general stdke of the rocks west of Rothsay Point is about S. 35° E., with prevailing westward dips. From Rothsay Point to the Gi-eat Glacier, the mountains bordering the river are chiefly composed of granites and granitoid rocks. These alternate with gneissic and schistose rocks of similar composition, including n "<. n ■ "'usts ; but massive granites probably form much the greater part of the whole. The granites are usually grey in colour, and contain both hornblende and mica, with white felspars, which are often porphyritic, giving the rock a spotted appearance.f Some varieties become granitoid diorite, while others are highly quartzose, and con- tain little or no hornblende. The series as a whole closely resembles that cut across by the Fraser River in its lower cjur.«e, and generally characteristic of the Coast Ranges of British Columbia.): The Great Glaoier, rising many miles back in the higher ranges of the mountains, in the material which it has brought down and deposited in its moraine, aftbrds a mode of ascertaining the gen- * This does not appear to be the locality near Rothsay Point, subsequently mentioned. t See note on the lithological character of the granites, Appendix V. X Compare Annual Report Geol. Surv. Can., 1880. p. 11 b. DAWION.] TOE STIKINE RIVER. 55 b eral composition of the contra! ranges. This material was found by Mr. McConnoll to consist almost entirely of gre}' granite of medium grain, composed of felspar, quartz and hornblende in nearly equal pro- portions, but holding also a little mica and occasional crystals of sphene, Dioritos and mica-schists occur in smaller quantity, together with coarse pegmatite, which is evidently derived from veins inter- sect ing the granite. Similar granitoid rocks, with occasional schistose areas, constitute K'ooolinian " , ' 1 1 J Caiion to Orand the whole of the rock-exposures seen along the river to the so-called Rapid. Grand Rapid, about four miles above " KloochmanCailon". The moun- tains bordering the valley also appear to be entirely, or almost entirely, composed of the same materials, though at one place, (nearly opposite the site of the Hudson Bay Company's old post) the upper portion of a mountain seems to show a m issive bedding, recalling that of the Cre- taceous quartzites of Tatlayoco Lake, which occuT there in a similar position i-elatively to the Coast Ranges.* No further evidence was, however, met with tending to show that rocks of this age occur here. . A shoi't distance below the "Grand Rapid," distinctly stratified stratified rook« rocks of dark colour are seen capping some of the mountains and rest- ing upon the granites. These beds have a dip of N. 70° E. < 30'', which brings them down to the level of the river near the rapid. They are there found to consist of hard argillites and grauwacke-quartzites, interbedded with shaly, grey and brownish impure limestones, the whole being considerably disturbed and cut near the granites by coar.'-o grey porphyritic dykes of that rock. The argillites were not observed to hold staurolite, mica, or other crj'stailine minerals like those of Wrangell, and otherwise differ somewhat in appearance from these, though their relation to the granitic rocks appears to be similar. They are followed in ascending order by a massive grey-blue sub- crystalline limestone of considerable though undetermined thickness, which can be traced in the mountains for some distance on both sides of the valley. These limestones are believed to represent those after- wards noted on the Dease and there referred to the Carboniferous period. About two miles and a-half above " Grand Rapid," near the mouth Altered voi- ofthe Clearwater, the limestone is followed — apparently still in ascend- '"*°'°'™''^"' ing order— by a series of altered volcanic rocks which are, for the most part of grey and greenish colours. These are ap])arently chiefly diabase^, but include also pori)hyrite-like rocks. The rocks are gener- ally rather fine grained, and would require microscopic examination before thoy can be named in detail, f Though clearly forming a • Report of Progress, Oeol. Surv. Can-, 1876-76, p. 253. t One of these xrhicb bos been microgoopioally examined by Mr. F. D. Adams is dcHcribed in Appendix V. as a diabase-porpbyrite (Stikine No. 16.) wr^ 56 b Argillites and limestones. Triassio fossils, K^fl Tertiary vol- oani»r colts. YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. PalsBozoio und Cretaceous rooks. stratified series, evidence of bedding can seldom be detected in the exposures, in consequence of tlieir homogeneous composition and shattered state. Thoy seem to be identical with those forming a part of the Cache Creek group, in the southern interior of British Columbia, and though no fossils were found in the limestones previously mentioned, they, and possibly also the argillites beneath them as well, may be referred with considerable probability to the same Upper Palaeozoic age. Altered volcanic rocks only, like those above noted, were seen along the river for about twelve miled above the Clearw^ater, but there is rea- son to believe that outliers of Tertiary basalt also occur in this part of the valley. At the distance just mentioned above the Clearwater, and about six miles and a-half below Glenora, exposures are found of slaty argillites and dark shaly rocks, containing some impure lime- stone, all very much broken and disturbed, and associated with altered volcanic materials. Some beds of these shaly limestones prove on microscopical examination to consist chiefly of organic fragments which are not, however, suflBciently distinctive for the reference of the beds. Dark shaly rocks occur near Glenora which were not specially examiued. It is probably from these that some specimens containing Triassic fossils, which were given to me some years age by Mr. J. W. McKay, were derived. The form represented is a species of Holobia, probably a finely sculptured variety of H. Lommeli. From this point to Telegraph Creek, basaltic and other comparatively modern volcanic rocks become prominent features, the basalts appear- ing as remnants of horizontal flows, the broken edges of which form scarped cliffs. These rocks are due to a period antecedent to that of the glacial deposits, and are of Tertiary age. Analogy with neigh- boring parts of British Columbia indicates that they may be assigned with probability to the Miocene. The basalts have evidently flowed along and partially filled the old river-valley, and unconformably over- lie the old altered volcanic i*ocks previously alluded to, as well as all the other rock series. About two miles below Glenora, the basaltic rocks were noticed in one place to have filled the old river-bed, conforming in their lower layers to the slopes of its sides, and to have been subsequently cut across obliquely by the present river. Other examples of this charac- ter are mentioned on following pages and are of special interest in connection with the occurrence of placer deposits of gold. Between Glenora and Telegraph Creek, the rocks seen below the basalts include at least two distinct series. The first and oldest of these is represented by a number of occurrences of altered volcanic rocks, like those previously referred to, as well as by considerable exposures OAWSON.J THE STIKINE BIVER. 57 b (beginning about a mile above Glenora) of grey and blackish, rather chorty quartzites, often nearly on edge. The second consists of slightly Indurated conglomerates, sandstones and shales, the conglomerates being often very coarse and containing pebbles both of the older volcanic series and of the granites and granitoid rocks. These lie at comparatively moderate angles of inclination. No fossils were ob- served in them, but in their lithological character as well as in their position • relatively to the Coast Eanges, they resemble rocks of Cretaceous age met with in other parts of British Columbia, both to the south and north of the Stikine, and may bo provisionally referred to that period. In the immediate vicinity of Telegraph Creek, the prevalent rock is Rocks near a grey-green, speckled, altered volcanic material, which proves to becrook!*'* a tine-grained diabase-tuff. * The high hill immediately opposite Telegiaph Creek, on the other side of the river, is composed of similai* old volcanic rocks, comprising compact diabase and a massive diabase- agglomerate. About two miles below Telegraph Creek, on the right bank of the Basalt flows, river, a portion of the basaltic tilling of the old valley forms a range of columnar cliffs about 200 feet above the present water-level. A second similar remnant occurs just above Telegraph Creek, on the same side, and a portion of it extends up Telegraph Creek itself for a mile or more. Basaltic dykes, which may have served as sources of supply of molten material at the time of eiuption, ai-e found cutting the older rocks. Though in some cases simulating the appearance of terraces, the basal- tic shelves along the sides of the valley are quite distinct from, and of earlier date than these. Notes on the various rocks met with will be found on the face of the Notes on map. map accompanying this report. The country to the east of the granitic rocks of the Coast Ranges would require much time and attention before its somewhat complicated geological structure could be properly defined. In the gorge of Telegraph Creek, a large boulder of grey sub-crys-Fossiiiferous talline limestone was found, closely resembling in character and degree of alteration that seen near the " Grand Eapid," but in this ease con- taining lai'ge branching corals and numerous Fu&ulimv, indicating its Carboniferous age. It is of course impossible to state with certainty whence this boulder was derived, but it may very probably have come from the mountains to the north within the drainage-area of Telegraph Creek. The portion of the Alaskan coast which I have seen, viz., that to the south of the 59th parallel, shows the same general absence of limestone. * See Appendix V. (Stikine No. 25.) i Is'; it Terraces. Qold. 58 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. torrace deposits which has ah-eady been noted and comniented on in the case of the British Columbian coast. In the vicinity of the mouth of the Stikine, terraces fifteen to twenty feet in height are found, resembling the wooded flats met with further up the river, but as 'they are here upon tide-water, indicating, doubtless, an elevation of the coast-line to that amount. Further up the river, the first appearance of high-level terraces is at about two miles below the Great Glacier. Those here seen are quite narrow, and wore estimated to be 500 and •700 feet, respectively, above the river. The river, for the first time, shows bordering-terraces of from thirty to fifty feet in height, about six miles below the Little Canon, and similar terraces are frequently seen above this point. On the mountain above Glenora a distinct but small terrace was seen from a distance at an estimated height of 1500 feet above the river. At Telegraph Creek the two principal terraces are 90 and 200 feet respectively above the river-level. The mode of occuri-ence of gold on the Stikine, and the placer mining which has occurred along the river, are described on a subse- quent page, in connection with facts on gold mining in the Cassiar region generally. (See p. 79 b.) Climate. Two distinct climatic regions. The traverse of the Coast Ranges by the Stikine River, from its mouth to Telegraph Creek, affords an excellent illustration of the dif- ference between the coast and inland climates, repeating to a great extent the phenomena met with in making a similar traverse of the same ranges in the southern part of British Columbia. It is here, however, all the more remarkable, as so great a difference between these climates would scarcely be anticipated in this northern latitude. Some records of observations in Appendix VI may be referred to for details, but it may be stated here, as showing the broad general contrast, that while the annual precipitation atWrangell, at the mouth of the Stikine, is over sixty inches,* that in the vicinity of Telegraph Creek on the inland side of the mountains, is so small that it is necessary to irrigate cultivated land. Nor does this comparison of rain-fall sufficiently mark the great diversity which actually obtains between the two climates, the pre- valence of clouded skies in the coast region- being accompanied by a saturated state of the atmosphere, while precisely opposite conditions are found on the eastern side of the mountain belt, at not more than * U S. Coast Pilot, Alaska, Part 1, 1883, p. 271. The precipitation at Wrangell is moreuvor much less than that at more exposed parts of the Coast, for at Tongass and elsewhere it exceeds 100 inches annually, •] THS STIKINB RIVES. 59 b eighty miles inland from the general line of the coast. The coast cli- mate is, of course, much more temperate than that of the interior, which, even no further off than Telegraph Creek, becomes one of extremes. It is probabl ) that the total annual precipation is even greater in the vicinity of the culminating and central ranges of the Bearing of Coast Mountains than at Wrangell, and as a large proportion of this |x?«tence'of occurs as snow, it sufficiently accounts for the existence of the import- B'a«'«"- ant glaciers and the heavily snow-covered appearance of the mountains till late in the summer. Miners state that the snow accumulates on the river-flats of the lower part of the Slikine, within the mountains, to a depth of from eight to ten feet, while at Telegraph Creek and on the Tahl-tan River it seldom exceeds eighteeen inches, and at the latter places horses and mules have been wintering out for a number of years. The great depth of snow retards the advance of spring all along the porti(m of the river where it occurs, and thus by a cumula- tive effect conserves the already large quantity of snow for the supply of the glaciers, which are consequently due rather to the extremely heavy snow-fall than to the actual latitude of the region. When we left the coast, on the 19th of May, the hills near the sea observations were generally denuded of snow to a height of several litindred feet, snow.'' but on entering the river patches of snow began to appear on the low flats, and a few miles further on these fiats and the gravel-bars of the river were almost entirely covered with the old snow, quite down to the water's edge. The quantity of snow was observed to diminish somewhat where the river first turns to the north, but was again greater in the vicinity of the glaciers, and it was not till the Little Canon was reached that the flats were found free from snow. From this point on, the improvement in the climate became quite marked, and the limit of snow retreated far up the mountain sides. In correspondence with the above facts, the vegetation is much far- cnmate and ther advanced in spring on the inland side of the Coast Eanges than ^®^***''°°* elsewhere. Thus, at the date above menti med, the cotton-woods and other deciduous trees at the mouth of the Stikine and along its lower part showed merely a general faint greenish tint as the buds opened. Four days later, in the vicinity of Telegraph Creek, the appearance was almost that of early summer. Shepherdia Canadensis, Amalanchier atnifolia, Gorydalus aurea var. occidentalis, Actcea spicata var. anjuta, Prunus Virginiana, Arnica cordifolia, Viburnum pauciflorum, Saxifraga tricuspidata, Androsace septentrionalis, amongst other plants, were in flower, and butterflies and humming-birds wore abundant. The change in species of plants met with in ascending the river is also clearly indicative of that from a very moist to a diy climate, as a reference to the lists in an appendix to this report will show. The I t J ■( .y ,. I Local olimatio differences. Notes at Teletcraph Creeli. CuUiratioD. Opening and closing of tlie nver. 60 b TUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. devil's club (Fatsia horrida) extends only a few miles above " Kloochman Canon," while Ekegnus argentea and other forms charac- teristic of a dry region were first seen at Telegraph Creek. The state of progress of the season at this place appeared to be nearly, if not quite, equal to that found at a similar date in the vicinity of Ottawa or Montreal. The local diffor.ence8 of climate are, however, quite important. Thus Glenora, though about twelve miles only from Telegraph Creek, is said to experience much greater cold in winter, and the snow-fall is also greater, being estimated at three feet and a-half. Less snow falls on the Tahl-tan than elsewhere, the amount increasing both to the east and west of that place. Strong winds blowing up stream or inland are prevalent in the Stikine valley in summer, but occur in the reverse direction, as a rule, in winter. Further observatioos on the winter climate of the Stikine are given in Appendix VI. During the few days spent at Telegraph Creek, in the latter part of May, the wind generally blew up the river and was often strong. The high distant ranges of the Coast Mountains to the west, were usually enveloped in clouds and heavy showers were there evidently of constant occurrance. The sky at Telegraph Creek was also as a rule largely obscured, but after passing over the Coast Mountains the clouds were more broken and produced merely a few drops of rain now and then, the conditions being similar to those met with in the dry country to the east of the same range in the Frase- valley, much further south. Cultivation in the vicinity of Telegraph Creek and Glenora is prac- tically confined to the raising of small quantities of vegetables and of bai'ley and fodder for animals. There is, however, in this vicinity, in the aggregate, a considerable area of land which might be tilled if there were sufficient local demand to warrant it. Excellent potatoes are pi-oduced, and though the leaves are occasionally touched by frost, the crop is seldom aft'ected. It has further been asc jrtained by actual trial on a sufficient scale that not only barley, but wheat and oats will ripen, and that all ordinary garden vegetables can bo pro- duced. The record is a remarkable one for the 58th degree of north latitude. According to Mr. J. C. Callbreath, of Telegraph Creek, the Stikine generally opens for navigation between April 20th and May 1st.* Ice or ' sludge ' usually begins to run in the river about the Ist of November, but has been noted in some years a fortnight earlier. The river generally freezes over before the end of November. Mr. Callbreath * The season of 1887 was unprccedentedly late, the first canoe from the upper river reaching the coast only on May 18th. OAWION.] THE STIKINE RIVER. 61 B states that the first sludge ice coming ''own from the smaller tributary mountain streams ceases to appear in the Stikinefor a time after these are frozen over. As in the case of otlier rivers rising in the interior, the highest water occui-g in the early summer, generally in June. Hoi-ses and mules find grazing on the Tahl-tan from April 20th, or May 1st to about December 1st, after which date they require some hay. IStikine .* Ice rember, je river 1 1 breath reaching Bay Co. Discovery and Exploration of the Stikine. Though the position of the Stikine* is indicated on Vancouver's Early. notice« of charts by the open channels of the river, and the shoals about its estu- ary are mapped, the existence of a large rivei* was not recognized by that navigator, who visited this part of the coast in 1793. Accord- ing to Mr, W. H. Dall,t the river was first found by the fur traders. "The nloop Dragon, Captain Cleveland, visited the Stikine delta in April, 1799,J and in the journal of the sloop Eliza,^ Captain Eowan, for the same year, we find the locality alluded to as ' Stikin'. " It was, no doubt, visited as well by many of the trading vessels which about this time frequented the coast. In 1834 the Hudson Bay Company j.gj^jj,.gjjjjj^^^ fitted out a vessel named the Dryad for the purpose of establishing a"f *•>« Hudson post and colony at the mouth of the Stikine, but the Russians being apprised of this circumstance sent two small armed vessels to the spot, and constructed a defensive work which they named Fort Dionysius, on the site of the present town of Wrangell. Finding themselves thus forestalled, the Company retired. This dispute was compromised in 1837, when an arrangement was made by which the Company leased for a term of years all that part of the Russian territory which now constituies the " coast strip " of Alaska, and the "fort" was handed over to the Company, the British flag being hoisted under a salute of seven guns in June, 1840. In the same year, the post, which had been renamed Fort Stikine by Sir James Douglas, was attacked by the Indians, and in the following year a still more serious attack was threatened, and averted only by the timely arrival of Sii* George Simpson, as recorded in his " Narrative of a Journey Round the World" (II, p. 181). In 1847, the coast Indians (Thlinkit) are stated to have attacked and taken possession of the fort. In the spi-ing of 1840, the * The modes of -rendering the native name of this river has been very varied, Mr. Dall enu- merates Slakeen, Stnhfcin, Slickeen, Stachin and Stikine. (Pacific Coust Pilot, Alaska, Part I, 1883 p. 109; footnote.) The last mentioned has been generally employed by good authorities and is adopted here. Mr. J- W- McKay informs me that the name Stikine is a corruption of the native (Thlinkit) word sta-hane, meaning "the river," and equivalent to " the great river." + U- S. Coast Pilot, Alaska. Part 1, 1883, p. 110. From this work, and from Bancroft's History of the PaoiQc Coast, vol.xzxiii, several of the facts mentioned below are also derived. t Cleveland's Voyages, Cambridge. Mass. 1812. § MS. in possession of Mr. Dall, but unpublished. 62 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Dioovery of upper part of rirer. Diseove' y of gold. lludaon Bay Company's post. Telegraph ox- plorat.iou. Hudson Bay Company established also a second fort on this part of the coast which was named Fort Dui'ham. This fort was situated at a place named by the late Sir James Douglas, "Locality Inlet," about thirty miles southward from the mouth of Taku Kiver and near the entrance of the Inlet of t 'C same name, in sight of Douglas Island. It was abandoned in the spring of 1843, and is sometimes referred to as Taku Fort. Previous to this time, in 1834, Mr. J. McLeod, had in the interest of the Hudson Bay Company, reached thrt banks of the upper part of the Stikine, near Dease Lake, coming overland from the Mackenzie Eiver. Subsequently, Mr. E Campbell spent the winter of 1838-39 on Dease Lake, but established no fort on the Stikine, No further events of importance appear to have occurred in con- nection with the river till, in 1861, two miners named Choquetto (" Buck ") and Carpenter, discovered placer gold on its bars. In the following spring, some excitement being created by the announcement of this discovery, several prospecting parties wore fitted out in Vic- toria, and a number of men passed the summer in mining on the river. In 1863, the Enssian authorities, hearing of the discovery of gold, despatched the corvette Rynda to ascortain whether the mining was being carried on in Eussian ten-itory. A boat party from this vessel, under Lieutenant Percleshin, ascended the river to a point a few miles above the Little Canon, occupying May 23rd to June 1st on the expe- dition. Mr. W. P. Blake accompanied this parly, and in addition to the sketch-map published by the Eussians, his report on the Stikine, previously alluded to, is based on it.* A Hudson Bay post was established on the east side of the river in 1862 or 1863 and maintained till about 1874, when it was moved to the vicinity of Gionora, were it remained till 1878, wbon it was ab'jin- donod. In 1^66, explorations for the line of the Western Union or Collins' Telegraph Company were extended to the Stikine under Major Pope. These were continued in 18(57 by Messrs. M. W. Byrnes, Vital Lafleur, W. McNeill and P. J. Leech, and embraced most of the principal tri- butaries of the river. The i-esults of this work were not separately published, and the whole enterprise of which they were a part was, as is well known, abandoned. The sketch-maps then made were, however, paitly embodied in the small map accompanying Mr. W. II. Dall's work on Alaska (1870), and with greater comjjleteneHS in other gul)8e(iuont maps of the region. The surveys made at this time, while doubtless sufficient lor tho object in view, and serving to •(Jecsriir'iical Nntos upsm Russian American and tho Stlckoen Rlvor; Waahington, 1808. AUo, Am. Journ. Soi. und Arto, vul, xliv, 18U7, p. i)6. OAWaON.] THE STIKINE RIVER. 63 b ;)art of ed at a t thirty n trance It was IS Taku orost of t of the I River. 1 Bease in con- loquotto In the icetnont in Vic- 10 river, of gold, ling was 8 vessel, )W miles le oxpe- lition to Stikino, river in lOved to as ab'in- CoUin.V or Pope. Lafleur, pal tri- iirately art was, e were, W. 11. in other is time, viiig to igton, 1808. represent the main features of the country traversed in a general way, leave much to be desired in the matter of accuracy. In 1873, Messrs. Thibert and McCuUough, travelling westward from Subgenuent the Mackenzie, discovered gold in the Cassiar region, and fell in with stikino. the miners already engaged in placer work on the Stikine in the autumn of that year. The subsequent history of the river depends on that of the Cassiar mining district, and need not bo further followed in detail. Some years after the ac(|uisition of Alaska by the United States, the Stikino came prominently into public notice for a time in connection with difficulties respecting territorial jurisdiction which occurred in regard to customs and other matters.. A fill account of these diffi- cnltio^ together with a report by Mr. J. Hunter of his survey of the lower part of the river, made for the pui-pose of approximately deter- mining the position of the line of boundary between Alaska and the ])rovince of British Columbia, is gLvcn in the Canadian Sessional Papers, Vol. XI, No. 11, 1878.* A desci'iption of the Stikine is giv n in the U. S. Pacific Coast Pilot, provi Misly quoted, as well as an itinerary of the river, but as no correct sinvoy of the Stikine existed at the time (1883), the distances and details are only approximjitoly correct. Published Maps of the Stikine. The following reference-list Oi" published maps of the Stikine is based on that given by Mr. Dall in Appendix I to the Coast Pilot of Alaska, 1879.— Eussian Hj'diographic Office chart No. 1396, Pacific Ocean on the Ruggtan maps. North-west coa,st of Arv- ica (published 1848). Also, Russian chart No. 1493-4 (published 1853), Alexander Archipelago. [These two charts, Mr. Dall informs me, show a pa: t of the Stikine in such a way i'.H to prove that it must have been surveyed.] Plan of the Stikine River from observations by officers of the cor- vette Rynda in 18G3. Russian Ilydrographical Depai-tnient, 18f!7. Sketch-map of the Stickeon Rivoi- fi-oni the mouth to the -kittle i3i„i{,,'auiap. <.ar.on, AV. P. Blake, Op. mpra cit., 1H(J8. Map of Cassiar District in Report of Minister of .Mines of British ^yrigi,t'g map, Columbia, 187<). [This h.as roniainod f'ne most conipleto map of the liver up to the present time, and is a very jiraiseworthy sk'otch.] Plan of Stachine (Stikine) River, b}' J. Hunlei-. [This, with other iiuntor's) map. subsidiary maps, is contained in the Sessional Pu[)ers, Vol. XI, No. 11, 1878. It includes the lower j)art of the river only, but is from actual m- 'Si' * See also Hoport by W. G. Morris. eUewhoro referred to, p. i1 el leq. 64 b YDKCN DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. survey and on a scale of 8000 feet=:l inch. It shows the provisional boundary line adopted without prejudice imtil the true lino shall have been determined.] Morris' map. ^^p showiniij boundary line in Morris' Report on Ahiska. U. S. Senate, Ex. Doc. No. 59, 1879. The I'iver is shown on a small scale, according to the result of surveys here reported on, in a map accompanying a summary of the results of the expedition, in Science, Vol. IX, April 2, 1888. Cassia R Trail* (Telegraph Creek to Dense Lake.) Route followed The trail from Telegraph Creek to the head of Dease Lake was opened by the Government of British Columbia in 1874. It has since been kept in a fair state^ of repair, and is a good route for pack ani. mals. It follows the north side of the Stikino and Tanzilla valleys, and is sixty-two miles and a-lialf in total length As already mentioned, the same important valley which is occupied by theStikinc below Telegraph Creek, continues in a north-eastward direction to Douse Lake, the main stream of the Stikine entering it from the southward about mid- way between these two points. Oil leaving Telegraph Creek, the trail makes a steep ascent to the level of a broad tei-raco, and runs along at a considerable height above the river, and often at some distance from it. till it descends again, at eleven miles, to the valley of the Tahl-tanor First North Fork, hear its moulli. The main valley of the Stikino is here about four miles in width, and is bordered by high hills and by mountains of rounded forms, iliose to the noi-th often nearly bare, while those on the oppo?iitc siiio arc generally oitlioi- wooded or strewn, where fires have passed, with burnt logs. The river occupies a caiion, with precipitous bank^ often 300 feet in height, which has been cut in the bottom of thit-' great valley. It is very rough and rapid, but there are no true fall:^. Terraces are well developed at several levels on both sides of the river, which is frequently boi-dered by vertical basaltic clill's. The basalt-, have manifestly lilled the bottom of the ancient valley in a series o!' nearly level flows, which have since been cut through by the present river, while the bordering bills are all composed of much older and probably Palaeozoic rocks. A general summary of the geology of tlu> country from Telegraph Creek to Dease Lake is given on a later pag(!. The country traversed by the trail between Telegraph Creek and the Tahl-tan is woo»'«l only in patches, the trees being chiefly blade pine (Pinus Murrayana) and aspen (Populus tremuloidcs), with occa- Telegraph Creek to 'L, hi tan. at ,. * See note in Appendix II (p. 198) on the origin of the name Ciuaiar. i. -..■^JT!^ provisional shall have ka. U. S. e result of larv of the ) Lake was t has since I' pack ani- ^alloys, and tioned, the Telegraph Lake, the about mid- iCnt to the ight above again, at ■k, hear its r miles in >f rounded le opposite isHcd, witli ous banks )m of thin true falls. the river, ho basalt-. I Horios o! ho present older and )gy of the later j)ago. Drook and iefly black .vith occa- ■IliltllffitlMilil' llilllii II ^!^M ^ i; Ha ■ifiS li' f < X 'i - 1/ as =. X - .- b« D*W80N.] CA^SSIAR TRAIL, 65 b -ional specimens of white birch, and alder and willow in the hollows The Boil irt reddish juul j-ather sandy, and appears very dry, being but , scantily (dothed with thin, tufty grass and bear-bori*y (Arctostaphylos uva- ■irsi). The strawbtsrry {Frajaria Viryiniand) was abundant and in full iiower on May 31st, while Polemonium pulchellum was also very conspi- cuous, and Linmva horealis, Echinospermum Eedowskii and Arnica cordi- folia wore also locally abundunt. Thickets are composed principally oi" Shepherdia Canndensis, high-bush ci-anberry (Viburnum paucifioru7n), roses, service-bei-ry {Amclanchier ainijolia), red dog wood (Cornus stoloni- fera) and willows. . The Tahl-tan Indian village i*^ seen near the trail, about a mile Indian village. Ix'fore the river of the same nanr - j reached, but was at the time we ]i!isscd quite deported. The Tahltan Eive- is crossed near its mouth by a good bridge, '"'''"*" ^i^"' !l is a largo and ra}>id stream, which riso-» about thirt}^ miles to the ii>ith-westward. lis valley is narrow and almost canon-like whore it reaches the Stikino, and has cut through basalt flows and heavy underlying gravel deposits to a depth of about one Inindre'd and fifty feet, though its right Ijank, just above the crossing, is composed of the oldei- I'ocks, It is resorted to by the Indians for salmon fishing during u part of tlu> summer, and there are several tempoj-ary houses and a number of graves. The angle between this river and the Stikine, on llio I'ight buiil:, shows three clearly defined, superposed, columnar hasalt-flow.s. The opposite angle, up which the trail /.ig-zags, is in the form of a long, narrow point, the surface of which is extremely rough, being composed of large pieces of basalt lying in great confusion, with 'icep interspafos and crevices. This is generally known as the " lava l>cil," but its broken character appears to have been produced by the washing out of the underlying gravelly deposits, resulting in slides and irregular settlement of a once uniform basalt sheet. ISTotwithstanding its relatively recent appearance, the basalt here, as elsewhere along the Stikine, is of pre-glacial ago, and was found, like the other basalt flows, to ])ass beneath the higher terraces. Gold mining Avas at one time carried on successfully for some miles up the Tahl-t.-in valley. According to M. W. Byrnes, one of the ToU'graph Compan3-'s ex- Souroeg of plorors, tiie sources of the Tahl-tari are at a distatu-e of about thirty miles from its confluence with the Stikine. It occupies a portior. of an important valley which, still further to the north-westward, carries the upper branches of the Taku and th(> furthest sources of the Lowes Jiivor. The Indians travel along this valley, and it ap])ears worthy of attention as a route I'rora the luivigable waters of the Stikino to the Yukon basin. Tiilii-tnn 5 / ;■ I I 06 6 YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA, i ; Tahl-tan to Tooya. Tooya valley. Sources of Tooyu. Plateau bevo) Tooya. The distance from the Tahl-tan to the Tooya, or Second North Fork, is about six miles. For about half this distance, to Ward's house, (now, like other places of call nlong this route abandoned) the trail runs near the Stikine River, the immediate valley of which still continues to bo occupied by ba.saltic flows. Aiiove these, however, the sides of the valley are generally foi'med of very regular and high ten-aces, (Com- posed of horizontally stiatified sands, gi-avels and earthy deposits, which though generally very fine, are rather silts than true clays. The gravels frequently include large bonlders.; At Ward's, the trail turns away from the river and cuts across a high point to the Tooyu. the highest terrace-level crossed being about 1000 feet above the river. On these high tei-racos the vegetation was perceptibly less advanced than in the lower parts of the valley. Swampy spots are fiequont. and the country, as we recede from the vicinity of the Coast Mountain^, has evidently a somewhat more humid climate and is more subject to summer frosts. Potatoes and other crops are successfully grown u Ward's, situated on one of the lower terraces, but irrigation is thci .' necessary. The Tooya valley, where it is crossed by the trail, is a great gorge, about 600 feet in depth, cut out through the terrace deposits. The river, which is spanned by a small bridge, is a wild toi-rent — almost a series of cascades. Its scarped banks show a section of about 400 feet of the terrace deposits, which are of the charactei- above noted, but include rough, bouldery and gravelly layers, and a number of large granite boulders occur in the bottom of the valley, icscmbling in their lithogical character the granites of the Coast Ranges. Scarcely any authentic information is avail ible regarding the head- watei's of the Tooya, though these have beer reached by i)rospectoi's from Dease Lake. A lake of considerable s'/.e is rei)orted to exist oi, its upper part, as indicated in the accompauying map, and the volume of water in the river is such as to lead to the belief that it must drain a largo area to the south of the Yukon watershed. J About a mile beyond the Tooya, on the summit of a wide, undulatin;: terrace, is Wilson's house. Hero turnips and potatoes have been grown, but the potatoes do not fully mature. From Wilson's to Cari- bou Camp, about twelve miles, the trail crosses an extensive high tci race or plateau, with a nearly level or slightly undulating surface, which is generally wooded with aspen, black pine and white spruce of' fair growtnS A few very small streams, which flow toward the main valley, are croshied, but the river is ge orally some miles distant aii'l^ scarcely visible from the trail. The Tooya valley is here said to run nearly parallel with the main valley of the Stikine and at no great distance from it, but is invisible from the ti-ail. No mountains weie OAweON.] OASSIAR TRAIL. G7 B ■th Forlc, ie, (now, rail wins itinues to les of the c'e8,"jeom- (leposits, uo clays. the trail he Tooya, the rivei . advance I fi-eqnonl. ^ountain^, Bubjeet to ' irrown at m is there ^l\;M A^; mj o W ^ a K CO -. a t is 2^ i-eat gorge, osits. The t — almost a 3ut 400 feet noted, but er of largo tng in their y the head- prospectors () exist on l;e volmiH' must draii' undulatin,:: have been n's to Cai .- 0 high tor ing surface. ite spruce of Id the main distant au'l, said to run t no great ntains were m m ^t G 13 H 9) S C O O O —. - CD a » ^ I- ■< -s >j .J 3) 3J I) tt<«">"K ■■Bi Head of Stikine. Tanzilln. Silt and clay terraces 68 b YOKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Taniilla v!>!Iey, here seen to the north-eastwai-d, but liigh, rounded mountains, with broad, bare summits, continue ic liorder the south-east side of the Stikine valley. About midway Iielweon Wilson's and Caribou Camp, the Stil. This plateau, low evi- ls SI com- istimated ) exposed ivated in No true granitic the clay- body of clays and here, so hich are :ho entry hich the |s nodules repoi'ted „y deposit losits has [illa^ "or about the Tan- lowing to the ter- •nsist, 80 ;he edges -of the terraces are less max'ked, and they show a tendency to merge into slopes, which rest upon the bases of the mountains bordering the valley. The mountains which extend to the south-east of the rivor hei^ l.'ot bearing, at a distance L^^ke. of seven or eight miles. The main valley, wiiich has heretofore been occupied by the river, turns northward, thi-ough a right-angle, and becomes continuous with that of Dease Lake. The distance from the head of the lake to the Tanzilla, at the nearest point, is about three J, liles, the level of the Tanzilla being somewhat lower than that of the lake. The height of land is about seventy teet above the lake, or 2730 feot above the sea, and constitutes the watershed between the Arctic uii'l Pacific slopes. The part of the valley which connects the Tanzilla with Dease Lake uriKin of the :s lloored by terrace deposits, and is without doubt very deeply filled Aviih such material, as no solid rock is seen in it. It has evidently been part of a through river-course of very ancient date, but in which direc- tion the stream which originated the valley flowed, it is now difficult to surmise. It has, however, been again occupied by a river in compara- tively recent post-glacial times, subsequently to the formation of the terrace deposits, as it is ti*aversed by a well-mai-ked river-bod, filled with rolled stones and gravele. This old channel appears to rise slightly toward Dease Lake, and there can be little doubt that the stream by which it was formed flowed out of the lake. Geological Notes on the Cassiar trail. Respecting the older rocks which characterize the greater pait of R„ci{g chiefly the country between Telegraph Creek and Dease Lake, few details ^"''*°**'"'* wore noted, and no approach to a general section was obtained, as they are not usually exposed except along the bases of the mountains, Avhich are, as a rule, at some distance from the route of travel. They • Tlie names of geogrnphieal features whioli have not been previously recognized, whettier Indian names or names applied by myself, are tliroughout the descriptive portion of this report printed in italics, on the occasion of their first occurrence. ^ ;■■■ 70 b YUKON DISTRICT ANi> BRITISH COLUMBIA. Lime&tonr. Hornblende- Tookand granite. Purple felsiteh may be described as consisting of grey and greenish-grey quartzites and grauwackes, with a large proportion of altered volcanic materials, generally felspathic, but passing into diabases and becoming in some cases more or less schistose. Rocks oiiginally of volcanic origin notably preponderate in the vicinity of Telegraph Creek, while near Dease Lake they are less abundant, and at about two miles from the lake, on the trail, massive grey fine-grained limestone occurs, in exposures which are nearly continuous for about a mile. None of the mountains in sight on either side of the valley are distinctly granitic, and rocks of this character were observed only in one locality, where they occupy a relatively small area. At about two miles along the trail to the south-west of the Tahl-tan, a dark, blackish-green, highly crystalline hoinblende-rock occurs in considerable mass, and h much broken and shattered by a grey poi*- phyritic and hornblendic gianite, which appears to be of later date, and which may have a width of about two miles on the trail. In the bed of the Tooya River rocks differing in appeaiance from any seen elsewhere on this trail were found. They are reddish and purplish in colour, tine.graincd, and in some beds slightly porphyritic, and appear to be chiefly felspatic in comprsition.* One of these is identical with a rock met with in the lower part of the bedded series, a short distance above "Grand Rapid," on the Stikine. No fossils were found in the limestones above alluded to, and the rocks, as a whole, can at present only be classed as Palroozoic, though showing many points in common with those of the Cache Creek group of southern British Columbia, which is believed to bo, in groat part at least, of Carbonife- rous age. BaeaitB filling ^^^ pre-glacial age of the basaltic rocks is shown, as already noted, old river-valley }jy their relation to the terraces of the valley, and also by the occur- rence upon them of large granitic bouldei s, the transport of which must bo attributed to glacial action. This is seen particularly in some places between Telegraph Creek and the Tahl-tan. The basaltic rocks, at the period of their eruption, have filled the old river-valley, and may very probably have at one time done so continuously from below Glenora to the Tooya, or perhaps considerably further. There is no reason to suppose that the basaltstvere erupted from a single volcanic centre, and indeed the existence of basaltic dykes cutting the older rocks at Telegraph Creek would appear to lead to an opposite conclu- sion. Subsequent to the period of basaltic eruption, the river, still flowing in the same great valley, has cut down through the basalts in several places, exposing sections of the gravel deposits of the ancient river. The new channel thus formed is not, however, coincident * See Appendix V. (Catsiar Trail No. 4.) DAWSON. ] OEOLOaiCAL NOTES ON TUB CASSIAR TRAIL. 71 B ^^.l" ' 3^2Lf^^^iii^!^^ FIO. 3. — SECTION SHOWING OI.I) RIVER-CHANNBL CAI'PBD BY BASALTS. EAST BANK 8TIKINB RIVER BELOW TAHL-TAN. -y<0/. i/i FIG. 4. — SECTION' SHOWING OLD RIVBK-OIIANNBL FILLED WITH BASALT. MOUTH OF TAHL-TAN. I 'l'"l '■' d ";,nTii ill ' I liii%.'Mi'i,liiil II' I'liiu riTTT lilt \«S''W'n 1,1. i|, ,)i I FIG. 5. — SECTION SHOWING RELATIONS OP BASALTS AND GRAVELS. STIKINB RIVFOl, BAST BANK, ABOVE TAHL-TAN. o. Old basal rockt. b. Old gravels. c. Superposed basalt flows. d. BasaUic fdling of a later gorge. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) K^ 1.0 1.1 ItilM 125 tu IM ttisi u 1^ ^ ^^ <^ y Photographic Sdences Corporation 21 wnf mm.av WnSTII.N.Y (716) irv $TUIT USM 4S03 ■ -■ itii^ - C.y '^.Tr, - ■failUUiMMnMMM 'I L " BMftlton TftEl-Un. Ito near p 1 i '^ BMAltoof OMOIiMiBal MMiolapw- •72 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. with the old, bat cuts across it at several points, and above Telegraph Greek, the excavation of the new bed has been carried to a depth estimated at from forty to seventy feet below the earlier one. A few miles below Glenora, where the basalt filling of the old valley has been cut across,- it seems, however, that the old river-bed is below the present water-level, indicating, in connection with the previous observatioh, that the grade of the original river was greater than that of the present. Directly opposite the mouth of the Tahl-tan Biver, on the left bank of the Stikine, a good section of the old river-bed is exposed, in the truncated end of a point which forms a spur of the plateau to the south, the basalts filling it like a groat ingot and resting, at the bottom, on the old gravels, at the sides, directly on the rocky banks of the old channel. The angle between the Tahl-tan and the Stikine, on the upper side, has already been referred to in connection with the peculiarly disturbed character of the basalt layer by which it is capped. Beneath the basalt at this place is a great thickness (apparently not much less than one hundred feet) of well-rounded gravel and bouldeis. It is probable that this deposit does not reach to the water-level, but its disinte- grated materialjbas formed a slope which conceals any basis of old rocks which may be beneath it. The eruption of basalt has, moreover, not been confined to a single pei'iod, but most have occurred at several different ^.imes separated by rather wide intervals. The occurrence in some places of three or more superposed flows, shows this to have been the case, but a still more striking proof of the same fact is found in a section observed fi*om a distance, on the left bank of the Stikine above the Tahl-tan. At this place a thick and apparently extensive deposit of gravels has been covered by three superposed basaltic flows. Through these, a narrow vertical-sided caSon has been cut by some tributary stream, which has even excavated a portion of the gravels beneath the lowest basalt. A fourth basaltic flow has then occurred, which has completely filled the ca&on and partly overflowed on the surfkce of the highest of the three earlier basaltic layers. Though the basalts of Tertiary age actually seen by me are confined to the Stikine valley, it is highl}' probable that further explorations will prove their occurrence in other valleys, and possiblv also the existence of similar rocks, in the form of plateaux of some size, in the region east of the Coast Ranges. The basaltic formation of this part of the Stikine has been described in some detail, on account of the importance which it possesses in respect to the distribution of gold. The gold along the Stikine was said by the miners to be " spotted," or irregulnr, in its occurrence, but the greater part of the " heavy " gold was found just along that OAWMM.J QIOLOOIOAL NOTES ON THK 0A8BIAB THAIL. 73 8 portion of the stream now characterized by the basalts, and it appears even possible to trace a connection between the riche:" bars which have been worlced and those places in which the present river has cat tbroagh or followed the old basalt-protected channel. This being the case, it seems very desirable that the old channel should be Ailly pros- pected, which I cannot learn has ever been attempted. If gold should be found in it in paying quantity, it might easily be worked, and would give rise to a considerable renewal of activity in mining. It is not known to what extent similar conditions may occur up the Tahl-tan valley, where also remunerative bars were worked some years ago. Superficial Deposits and Terraces, No true boulder-clay was i>ecognized either on the Lower Stikine or Boaider-«i«jr in the country between Telegraph Creek and Dease Lake ; neither ■"•* obi^r^M. were any striated rook surfaces actually seen. The last-mentioned fact is to be attributed to the want of suitable localities for observation in the vicinity of the i-oute followed and to the necessarily cursory cbai'acter of the examination, as evidence of glaciation of a general char* acter, shown in the rounding of rocky hiliooks and the transport of iarire bouldera, is abundant. The most characteristic later formation ^ , , .. « . 1 mi 1 /n, , J T-w -r • . . .. Tlilck illty and of the country between Telegraph Creek and Dease Lake, is the silty oiayerdjpoiiu. and clayey deposit which has already been referred to in several places. The whole of the great valley has evidently in later-glacial times been filled with this deposit, which must have been laid down in a compara- tively tranquil lake-like body of water, into which coarser material was in some places washed by entering torrents, as in the case of the Tooya. It appeara to me possible that this body of water was held in by means of glacier-ice accumulated on the Coast Ranges on one side and tliose of the Cassiar Mountains on the other, and the increased height of the terraces in the vicinity of Dease Lake, as compared with those near Telegraph Creek, may show that the terrace-deposits have boon laid down near the front of a retreating glacier-mass, the water- „,,igj,(, (,i'„. level of the lake being reduced pari passu, with its recession. The ^"°''- highest teiTaeo-level observed near the Tahl-tan, is at an approximate elevation of 1700 feet above the nea, while half way between the Tooya and Dease Lake the terraces run up to a height of about 2800 feet. At the head of the lake a well-marked terruce-cdge was observed at 620 feet above the lake, or 3180 feet above the sea. The irregular surface of the same terrace sloped upward to a iVirther height of about 100 feet, and granite boulders were found on the sum- mit of a limestone hill 1000 feet above the lake, or 3660 feet above the sea. If the supposition of the considerable inland extension of the gluoiers of the Coast Mountains at one epoch of the glacial period be -. n ■!• (" 'iii '■mm i-H 74 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BBITISH COLUMBIA. correct (and it is strictly paralleled by similar circumstances in the more southern part of British Columbia), the greater part of the granitic erratics met with may probably have been derived from the Coast Banges, though the Cassiar Mountains, and possibly other ranges in the region, are chnracterized by similar rocks. ijflttii«t luitar- aUyauy of gonrMuL Boute for Waggon-road or Bailwajf. Dease Lake is the central point of the Cassiar district, and though, as shown by statistics subsequently quoted, the yield of gold haH greatly fallen off since the palmy days of its firat discovery, it is very probable that further placer mines of value may yet be found in thiit region, (of which a great part still remains to be carefully prospected) and there is every reason to believe that quartz mining and other industries will before long be developed on a considerable scale. Even at the present moment this disti*ict is more easily accessible than thnt of Cariboo, and when a waggon-road shall have been built fram the head of navigation on the Stikinc to Dease Lake, it should be easy to lay down goods at the latter point at very reasonable rates. Root* for wBf ^ho construction of a waggon-raad, with moderately favorable grades, between Telegraph Creek and Dease Lake, would not be very difficult or expensive. The first ascent from Telegraph Creek is steep, but might easily bo ovei-come. Between eight aud ten miles from Tele- graph Creek, or for a distance of about two miles, the road would have to follow a rough hill-side above the caflon, where some blasting and grading would be required. The descent to the Tahl-tan would entail some heavy side-hill cutting in rock and earth and a bridge would bo necessary. The ascent and crossing of the " lava bed " would entail about a mile of rough work on the opposite side of the TahUtan, and should the line of the present trail be followed, a long and steep ascent, with grading in gravel and clay, would be required at Ward's, and again in descending to and ascending from the Tooya valley, but no i*ock work would be necessary. It seems quite pi*obnble, however, that a better route might be found for au'oad, at a lower level, IVom Ward's to the mouth of the Tooya, in following along the side of the main vul- ley. In either case a good bridge would be required at the Tooya. Beyond this, all the way to Dease Lake, no further serious obstacle iu met with. Portions of the route are clayey and swampy, and to render these easily passable, from eight to ten miles of corduroy in all would be required, for which suitable material could be obtained near by in all oases. Should the construction of a railway be contemplated, the difficul- ties to be surmounted would be greater in proportion, particularly lUUmty rwt*. DAWtOM.] DBA8K LAKB. 75 D * liotWeon Telegraph Crook and the Tahl-tan, where the line would have to follow the side of the caiion, which is veiy rough and rocky. Beyond this point, so far as the valley could be seen from the trail, it presents no very serioas impediments. Below Telegraph Creek, to Glenora, or a little farther, a railway would involve some moderately heavy side-hill work ; bat fVirther down the Stikine, to the sea, it might follow the river-flats at a nearly uniform level. The greatest difilcalty to be apprehended on this part of the line would be that likely to arise in winter fh}m the very heavy snow-fall on that part of the river below the Little Gallon. It may be pointed out in this connexion that the survey of the Stikine and of the valley leading by the Tanzilla to Dease Lake shows that the route is an exceedingly direct one to Dease Lake, and that, taken in conjunction with the valleys of the Dease and Liard Rivers, it aifoi-ds almost an air-line from the Pacific Coast to the great Maekensio River. (See p. 19 b.) The present rates for goods, from WrangoU to Dease Lake are about? night Mtei. as follows : — Wrangell to Telegraph Creek by steamer, 2^ cents per lb. Thence to Dease Lake by pack animals, 6 cents. Thence by lake to Lnketon, f to 1 cent. Total, about 9^ cents per lb., or $195 per ton. The result of such high prices is to discourage prospecting in the dib- trict and seriously to retard its farther development. M ^ Dease Lake. We reached the head of Dease Lake on Juno 5th, and eventually left prooMdinn at tho lake on the morning of Juno 19th, spending thus thirteen days in ^^••■* '^^•' nil upon the lake. At tho date of our arrival the lake, with tho exception of a small area at its head, was still covered with the decayed but unbroken ice of the pravious winter, and this did not finally break up .inj disappear till the 16th. Meanwhile, almost all our time and atten- tion were devoted to sawing out boards and building three boats. It would have been impossible to have left sooner, even if we had had baats ready at tho outlet of the lake, which had long been open, in onsequence of the entire exhaustion of supplies in the district, from which it was necessary that wo should depart provisioned for tho greater part of the summer's work. As it was, our boats were finished a few hours before the final disruption of the ice, wh'.ch occurred in , tho end with extraordinary rapidity, under the ' tfluenco of a strong wind. It will easily be understood that we had but little time or opportunity for the examination of the surrounding country, which is noverthelesa of considerable interest on account of the rich gold- producing character of some of the streams. (,.. 76 B YUKON DISTRICT AND BBITI8H COLUMBIA. Opminffud The diBappear&nce of the ice must always be late in this lake, in "* '* coneeqaence of its high altitude, the want of any large entering streams and its contracted outlet. It was, however, in 1887 later than ever before known since mining operations began. The following dates, obtained fh>m Mr. Robert Reid, of Laketon, are those of the opening and closing of the lake for the past few years. — Ynt. Lake opened. Lake doted. 1882 June 9 December 5or6 1883 May 90 December 5 (Clear from end to end.) 1884 June 2 December 2 1885 June 9 December 1 (Frozen completely across) 1886 June 5 December 16 (Crossing on 17th.) 1887 Junel6 Further particulars respecting the climate of Dease Lake will be found in Appendix YI. I Dease Lake has an elevation of 2660 feet above the sea, and lieH ' nearly due north-and-south on the 130th meridian. It has a total length of twenty-four and a-third miles, with an average width of rather less than one mile, being somewhat narrower at the northera than at the southern end. Dease Oeek, on the delta of which is situated Laketon, the chief place of the Cassiar district, enters on the west Bide at sixteen miles and three quarters from the head of the lake, and is the largest tributary stream. It is also the most important, as being that on which the richest of the gold deposits were discovered, and llinlnc oampr. **^ which gold is Still worked to a limited extent. A certain amount of business is still carried on here, and it is the head quarters of the present Gold Commissioner, Mr. Orimp. At the south end, or head of the lake, there are a few buildings, now virtually abandoned, and at Porter's Landing, on the west side of the lake near its north end, goods are landed for Thibert's Creek. The old Hudson Bay Post was situated about two miles from the lower end of the lake, on the east side. A small steamer was put upon the lake when the mines were in a flourishing condition, and is still employed in making occasional trips up or down the lake with supplies. Coantiyiur- The country about the lake is everywhere wooded, though trees Eual large enough for lumber are found only in sheltered valleys or on low land. It is not roughly mountainous, though several prominent sum- mits occur. The most conspicuous of these lies four miles back ft'om I the lake, about halfway between the head of the lake and Laketon. As I could not ascertain that this is recognised by any name, I propose llowing e of the ore ' acrou) th.) ;e will be a, and \m las a total e width of e northera f which is ters on the of the lake, portant, as >vered, and tin amount 'ters of the or head of led, and at lorth end, Post was in the east lines were occasional augh trees or on low (inent sum- back ft-om ^keton. As I propose I naming it McLeod Mountain, in honour of the discoverer of the lake. Mountaini. Its height i^ about 6300 fe*tt. i^oiwcen McLcod Mountain and Dense Creek is Mount Sullivan,* not so elevated as the laHt, but nearer the lake-shore and verj conspicuous from it. (Ou the opposite, or east eido of the lake, a coupio of miles back from the shore, is a gi*oup of i-ounded and wooded mountains, somewhat exceeding 1000 feet in height above the lake, or about 3800 above the sea. Beady Mountain, another notable landmark, is also on the cast side of the lake, about three miles frori its lower end and near the creek of the same name. Its lu^i^ht was not determined, but is less than that of McLeod Moun- tain. With the exception of these and some other nameless mountains, the country near the lake is in(M-oly hilly, or rises in long, lii^'lit slopes from the shores to undulating wooded uplands, a few huti'Ired feet only above it, which coalei!>co with the bases of the moun- laiiH. Only near the noi*thern end of the lake do the mountains begin to crowd down more closely to the water's edgo. The lake is shallow md marshy at both ends, but is elsewhere evidently very deep, though 110 soundings have been made in it. Rock-exposures are infrequent along the margin of the lake, which, Superficial when scarped, generally shows only stratified, sandy, clayey and ^*"' "■ gravelly terrace-deposits, like those seen on the trail to tho isouth- eostwai-d. None of these were recognized as true boulder-day. The lake is probably held in at its northern end by the accumulated delta deposit of Thibert Creek.f It is much constricted, further up, by the similar deposit of Deaso Greek, and has narrowly escaped being divided at this place into two lakes. It is rimmed round at its head by some- what irregular terrace deposits, which have already been alluded to as filling the ancient valley which communicates with that of the Stikinc. The vegetation gives evidence of a greater rainfall and conditions more ulpine and less favorable than those met with on the trail to tho 8outh-ea.st\v«id, and sharply contrasting with that of Telegraph Creek veRcf..fion*rd and thy Talil-tan. The effect of the ii-o upon tho lake in spring, inouitiv tion. retarding the vegetation in its immediate vicinity, was extremely apparent. Agi'lculturo can scarcely be regarded as practicable in this region, ami the results of gardening, however carefully conducted, are small. Potatoes can be grown, but in some years they are much njuiod by frost, and carrots, lettuce, cabbogc, cauliflowers and turnips ay be made to afford a fair return. Such rockexposures as could be reached near the shores of the lake Rocks. cro inspected, and the material brought down fi-om the hills by sev- *So named for Mr. J. H; BuIHtmi, flnt Qold OommiHioner of tho dbtriot, lott in tho wrock t A •. earn ftbont fliljr fMt wide. Iri ■ : .i sxsaa 78 b YUKON DI8TBI0T AND BRITISH OOLUMBIA. If ■ m '" oral streams was examined, the evidence affoi-ded being in favor of tho belief that the whole country is underlain by Paleozoic strata resem- bling those described to the south-eastward. In addition to the lime- stone already noted as occurring at the head of tho lake, there are grey and greenish rocks, representing altered materials of volcanic origin,i< associated with leek-green serpentine, in which some minute veins of chrypotile or asbestos were noted. Besides these, and probably pie- dominant as a whole in the valley of the lake,^ are ai'gil lite-schists, which vary from a black plumbaginous to a grey, finely micaceous character, and are often lustrous and not unfrequently highly calcareous. Tho rocks, as a whole, closely resemble those of parts of the <,'ol(l bearing series of Cariboo district. Dease Creek. Dease Creek, is said to lie about twelve miles in length and to i-i>o in a lake about five miles long. It has cut a deep, narrow V-^I'^I^d valley through a series of terraces, which have evidently been forinod at its mouth when the lake stood at various levels higher than the present. The ancient pre-glacial valley has, at the same lator-giaciiil period, been filled with clayoy and gravelly deposits, among whiJi large and often glaciated boulders are common. Those deposits fre- quently resemble boulder-clay, and are possibly entitled to be so cuiltd. The present valley has been cutdown through them, and often to a con- siderable depth into the rock beneath them. The mining has occui rod chiefly in the bed of the stream, along the sui-face of the solid rock, in the sides of the valley, and in various places in the gravel deposits which still remain ; also at the head of tho flat on which LaketjD stands, where the sti'eam issues from the narrow recent valley. Much quai'tz occurs in the wash of the stream, and the gold, being " coarse," is evidently of local origin and has been liberated by the disintegra- tion of the rocks in the immediate vicinity of, if not entirely within, | the actual drainage-area of tho stream. Gold Mining in Cassiab District. TieidofgoM. The following table, based on the reports of the Minister of Mines! of British Columbia, clearly illustrates the sudden rise and gradualj decfUience of the gold yield of Cassiar district. — Eitimated valw. of Oold produced by Oaadar District, from 1874 to 1887. 1873 Notknown. 1874 $1,000,000 1875 830,000 * One of thete, npiesentint a numeroni elaf ■ havini a more or Ian diitinet Nhii Uwe stn tare, ii deMribed in Appendix V. (Deue Lake, No. 8.) or of tho ta reeem- tho limo- are grey ic origin,* te veins of bably pre- ite-schists, micaceous calcareous, ff the gold OAWMN ] GOLD MININO IN CA88IAR OI8TRI0T. 79 B 1876 656,474 1877 499,830 18VS 519,720 1879 405,200 1880 297,850 1881 198,900 1882 182,800 1883 o 119,000 1884 101,600 1885. 50,600 1886 63,610 1887 60,485 Total $4,886,060 No estimate i)as boon formed for tho yield of the mines in the first year of their operation (1873,) but as that for the following year appears probably to be overstated, it may, for tho purpose of arriving at a general estimate of tho whole, be assumed that the sum of one million includes both yeara. The value of the gold may be stated as from $16 to $17 per ounce, though that of Doase Cieek is usually priced at about $15-50 only. In the Report of Progress of the Geological Survey for 188d-87, Isoareeaoftn was enabled to give a general note on tho various creeks worked for JSjiSiSg!."'"*" gold in Cassiar and on the Stikine.* The infoimation there given was chiefly furnished by Mr. G. B, Wright. I am now able to add to this, particulars as to the actual condition of the workings in 1887. These were largely obtained through tho kindness of Mr. J. S. Cnmp, the prctient Gold Commissioner for Cassiar district, though facts were also gathered from several old miners who were among the firat to enter the country. As explained on a previous page, my opportunities of personally investigating the Cassiar district were restricted by the necessity we were under of pushing on to our main field of explora- tion. Chiefly from the sources above-mentioned the following sam- mary account of the different localities is derived. Summary of Facts relating to Gold on the Stikine and various Creeks in the Cassiar District (1887). Stikine River. — Gold discovered, 1861. Very fine gold can bo found Looaiiticaof on almost all parts of tho river, but very little profitable work was '"'* "'"'"«. ever done below tho mouth of the Cieai'water. The rich ground may be said to have begun about nino miles below Glenora, and to have extended thence to the, Grand Cafion, above Telegraph Creek. Here Shock's or Shake's Bar, and Carpenter's, Fiddler's and Back's * Op. eit., pp. 138-140. t^ ] I 80 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. LoealitiM of gold minintt ooDtinaed. m ! I Bni*o wero situated, the richoHt being between Glenora and Telegraph Greek, though gold was also worked in a few places in the Grand GaSoD. With the exception of a few spots in the lower part of the cafion, below the Tahl-tan, and one nearly opposite Wilson's, all the gold was very fine. Goarso gold was also found on the lower pa^t of the Tahl-tan, which proved quite profitable, and bars were worked for a distance of ten or fifteen miles up the river. Pellets supposed to be of silver but probably of arquerite or silver-amalgam were also found on the Tahl-tan. The bars on the Stikine at first averaged $3 to $10 a day to the hand, and as much as two to three ounces was sometimes obtained, but not more than $1 to $3 can now be got, and work has practically^ ceased. It is stated that none of the higher benches so far prospected will pay for hydraulic work, but it is doubtful whether these have been examined with sufiicient care, as the ai'ea of such benches is very considerable. Dease Creek. — The bed of this creek has been gone over several times, and is now nearly worked out. It formerly yielded $8 to $50 a day to the hand, and paid well from the head of the flat, at its mouth, for six miles up. Above this a few isolated good claims were found, particularlj'^ the Cariboo Company's claim, eight miles up, from which much heavy gold was obtained. This claim has been worked over four times. The best remaining claims are bench claims on the south side of the creek, some of these being upon an old high channel which yields well in places. Some hydraulic work on a small scale is being carried on. In 1886 there were sixteen whites and thirty-five Chinese at work, and the total amount produced was about $15,000. The gold is generally well water-worn and somewhat mixed in character, varying in value from $15*50 to $16 per ounce. Thibert Greek. — The bed of this stream is also worked out. It paid for about six miles up fh>m the mouth, yielding at about the same rate as the last. Bench claims are now being worked, two by the hydraulic method, the rest by tunnelling. An old high channel had also been found on the south side of this creek, upon which two claims are being worked, one paying very well. Yield in 1886, nearly the same with BeaSe Ci'eek, about twenty-two whites and twenty-five Chinese being employed. Gold valued at $16 per ounce. On a tributary named Mosquito Creek very good prospects have lately been obtained, — as much as $40 to a six-foot set of timbers. Work is now going on here. Defot Creek. — A tributary of Cafion Creek, on the same (west) side of Dease Biver with the last. It rises on a plateau high above the river, where great numbers of quartz reefs occur, and the gold found is quite rough and fViU of quai'tz. Large nuggets have been obtained, including one of fourteen ounces in weight. Some work is still in MWMN*] GOLD MININQ IN 0A881AB DISTHICT. 81b )legrapb e Grand i-t of the 8, all the r patt of orked for »sed to be Iso found $3 to $10 ometimeft work has shes BO far 1 whether )a of Buch er several |8 to $50 a , its mouth, rere found, from which }d over four e south side nnel which ale is being five Chinese 1,000. The character, progress, though the creek-bed is worked out. Gold worth t17 peri^ftiidHor ounce. SSS* CaiUm Creek. — No paying deposits found. Cottonwood Creek. — This large stream heads in the same mountains with the last, but no paying deposits bave been found upon it. Beady Greek. — A little mining was done here in 1874 and 1875, but nothing of importance ever found. Eagle River. — ^No mining over developed. McDame Creek. — Discovered 1874. The highest average daily yield varied from $6 to $100 to the hand when mining was at its best. Most of the gold was obtained in what appeared to be an old high-level channel, which crossed points of terraces or benches on both sides of the present stream. A very small proportion of the yield was from the 8tream-bed. Four or five Whites and forty Chinese are now at work here, the greater number of the Chinese being employed on wide flats, which occur about nine miles up the creek. Bench claims run for about seven miles up the creek or to Hollovay's Bar. Gold worth from $17'75 to $18 per ounce. Snow Creek, a tributary of the last. — ^The richest claim found in Cas- biar was near the mouth of this creek, yielding for a week 300 ounces for nix to eight men. Only two men now at work. Quartz Greek, a branch of Trout Creek, which is also a tributary of ., McDame Creek. Good claims were worked here, yielding rough gold full of quartz. Much quartz in the vicinity. Two minora now at work. Roaella Patterson and Dennis Creeks. — ^Yielded moderate amounts of gold, paying " wages," say, at |6 a day. Now abandoned. The remaining creeks mentioned in the report cited, iz., Oold Greek, Slate Creek, Seiner's Creek or First North Fork of McDame, Third North Fork of McDame, Spring Creek and Fall Creek, are now abandoned, though several of them yielded a considerable amount of gold at one time. iiayyea Creek. Near the head-waters of the Upper Liard, yielded excellent prospects, but has never been properly examined. The gold obtained was found in the benches, and some of it was very coarse. The creek yielded at the rate of $10-90 a day to the hand for a short time, to three miners who discovered it. Walker Creek. — Said to be distant about seventy miles in an easterly direction from the mouth of McDame Creek. Some work has been done here, but no great quantity of gold obtained. Black, Tumagain or " Muddy " River. — Reached by trail running easterly from a point opposite the mouth of McDame Creek, and said to be ninety miles distant Fine gold stated to have been obtained to the value of $20 per day to the hand, and it is generally believed that coarse 6 i 82 b YUKON DI8TBI0T AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. p'^ 1 Fronn vronnd p ■ 1 1 r i i .V J Metsllifcroaa Teiu. J^ !,'■ ^M^ • fI! Ik-; 1» PioipeeUof ftarther placer mininci DiMorery. gold may occur on its head-waters. In 1874 prospectors found atreams about seventy miles south-east of Dcase Lake, which are supposed to be tributaries of this river, and yielded $6 a day in coarse gold, but at the time this was considered too poor to work. Considerable difficulties were experienced in mining operations in some parts of the Cassiar district on account of frozen gi'ound, often met with below the wooded and mossy surface. It is on recoixl that on DeaHc Greek, the ground continued to be frozen to the end of a tunnel driven in one hundred and fifty feet from the slope of the hill, and at a depth of forty feet from the surface. After the woods and moss had, however, been burnt off, little further complaint was heaixl of frozen ground. Very little has yet been done in the way of prospecting for metal- liferous veinb in this district, but from what I have been able to learn it would well repay a thorough examination, and che comparative ease with which it may be reached from the coast, together with the facil- ity it affords for the construction of a good road to the very centre of the district, should not be forgotten. A specimen of galena, holding a little copper and iron pyrites, from the " Acadia Claim," South Fork of McDame Creek, was given to me some years ago by Mr. J. W. McKay. This has since been assayed by Mr. C. Hoifmartn, and proves to contain 75 ounces of silver to the ton of 2000 lbs. A piece of native copper, fifteen pounds in weight, was iX one time found in Boulder Gulch, Thibert Creek. Taking into consideration the great extent of generally auriferous country included in the Ca^eiar district, it must be conceded, that apart from the immediate vicinity of the well known productive camps, it has been very imperfectly prospected. A gi*cat part of tb? district has in fact merely been run over in search of rich diggings, the simplest and cheapest methods of prospecting only, having been employed in the quest. It is not improbable that additional rich creeks like those of the vicinity of Dease Lake, may yet be discovered elsewhere and it may be considered certain that these are great areas of poorer deposits which will pay to work with improved methods, and will eventually be utilized. It is also to be anticipated that " quartz mining " will ere long be inaugurated and will afford a more permanent basis of prosperity than alluvial mining, however rich. DiSOOVBRY AND EXPLORATION Or CaSSIAB DISTRICT. The Cassiar district of the northern interior of British Columbia may be said to have been twice discovered, first by officers and em- ployees of the Hudson Bay Company, and again, after a considerable interval, by the gold miners. 0AWMII.3 BXPLOBATION OF CA88IAB DISTRICT. 83 b streams posed to 1, but at ktions in rtd, often joi-d that ond of a r the hill, oods and ras heard for metal- 0 to learn •ative ease the facil- J centre of »a, holding Jouth Fork Mr. J. W. and proves je of native in Boulder The nnsaccessAiI attempt made by the Hudson Bay Company in Bntontioo hf 1834, to reach the trade of the interior country west of the Bocky "'•*'*^ Mountains from the mouth of the Stikine, has already been noted, (p. 61 B). Efforts were at the same time being made to open up routes from the eastward. In the summer of 1834 Mr. J. McLeod, chief trader, was employed exploring the Liard Bivor above Fort Halkett, and in endeavoring to discover some stream flowing to the westward. He found and named Dease Lake,* crossed to the head-watera of the Stikine, which he proposed to name the " Pelly Biver," and travelled westward in the valley apparently as far as the Tooya or Second North Fork. The Indian bridge (afterwards named Terror Bridge by Mr. B. Campbell), by which this river was crossed at the foot of "Thomas' Fall," was of such a character that neither ^Ti Tert is still mining in Cassiar, but McCuUoch lost his life some yeara since on a winter journey on the Stikine. The subsequent historv of Cassiar is that of a mining district. In 1874 the population, exclusive of Indians, was estimated to Qnid miainti have reached 1500. The placcre of McDame Creek were discovered. *'^**' Miners descended the Liard a long distance, and worked McCul loch's Bar and other river-bare. Prospectors ascended the same river, and reported having bee^ within sight of Frances Lake. The little town of Laketon was built at the mouth of Dejiso ('reek, and beef cattle were for the flret time brought across country from the Upper Fraser. The total yield of gold from tho district (which, from a mining point of view, includes the Stikine) is roughly estimated to have been equal to 81,000,000. In 1876 the population is estimated to have been 1081, and tho yield ists. of gold equHllcd about $830,000. Three hundred head of cattle were brought from the Fraser overland. This and tho preceding season were tho best yeai'S of the district. Of a small party which spent the winter of 1874-76 far up the Liard River, four died of scurvy. Prospecting was actively carried on in outlying regions, Sayyea Creek being discovered near the Liard head-waters, and the Frances River also apparently examined. Owing to the flattering accounts sent out, a great influx of minora ig7o. occurred in 1876, tho population being at one time estimated at 2000. Protitable work could not, however, be found for so many men, and tho yield of gold fell to $499,830. Walker Crook, said to be seventy to eighty miles east of McDame Creek, was discovered, but this stream never proved very remunerative. Dcfot Creek was also found, and in 1878 provo-i rich for a limited area. Since this time the production of the district and tho number ofDooiineofgold niinere employed have gradually declined, and no important new creeks Imve been discovered, though reports to that effect have from time t<) time been circulated. The Black or Turnagain (Muddy) River is tho most recent of these, some attention being drawn to it in 1886. 1 . -7 86 b TDKOK DISTBIOT AND BBITI8H COLUMBIA. It appears, indeed, that after the first few years very little prospecting or exploring has been done at a distance from the main creeks, of which Dease, Thibert and McDame have throughout been the most important and permanently pi'oductive. , .1 Dkase Biveb. We left Bease Lake with quite a little flotilla, consisting of tho three boats we had built, with an Osgood canvass boat, which it had been intended to keep in reserve, but which the amount of dead weight which we had to carry obliged us to press into the service. Besides myself, the party consisted of Messrs. McConnell and McEvoy, four white men, five Coast Indians and one Indian woman, the wife of the leading Indian boatman. OfeHtkr Ranee. Though the region about Dease Lake is as a whole rather low, with isolated mountains and ridges here and there prominent, that to the east and north-east is very different, being studded with rugged moun- tains, and in effect constituting an important mountain range with north-west and south-east trend, and a trans^^rse width of nearly fifty miles.' This range appeal's to represent a continuation of that which in various maps has been named tho Peak Mountains or Blue Mountains, but as its connection to tho south-eastward is as yet quite uncertain, and as neither of these names possesses either a distinctive character or any special fitness, I believe it will be most appropriate and convenient to call the range the Cassiar Range, and shall accord- ingly so designate it. Rooking down the Dease Bivor from Porter's Landing, near the noi*th end of the lake, tho view is one of the most pictuiesque possible, embracing a portion of the lake itself, boi-dered by the marshy flats of the mouth of Thibert Creek jind bounded by the rugged ond extremely varied forms of the eastern ridges of these mountains, towards which the Dease Eiver flows, and through which it cuts in a direction almost directly transveree to the run of the range. The Dease Biver has, up to the present time, been very inaccurately represented upon the maps. My sui-vey of the river, as shown on the accompanying map, proves that its ooui>se is somewhat remarkable. Disregarding minor flexui'es, which are numerous and sometimes in- volved, it may be described as following three principal directions. — Fi-om Dease Lake its general courae is N. 60** E. for forty-seven miles, to a point near the valley of Eapid Biver. Here, before it has freed itself f^'om the Cassiar Bange, it turns nearly at a right-angle to a bearing of N. 15° W., which it maintains for thirty-one miles. Thenco it again turns for a second time through a right-angle to a course of Lower end of I>«M«L»ke. ThiM mfttn of the Ml oAwaoN.] DEA8E RIVER. 87 b Navii the r Ability of rar. N. 55** E., ^hich it follows to its junction with the Liard. Its entire length, thus measured in three straight reaches, is one hundred and ten miles, bat measured in straight lengths of one mile it is one hun- dred and twenty-seven miles, or, following all the sinuosities of the stream, one hundred and eighty miles. The height of I)ease Lake, as previously stated, is 2660 feet, within Faiiofth* small limits of error. That of the confluence of the Dease and Liard not.' about 210(1 feet. The last mentioned elevation is a fair approximation only, as no simultaneous barometer readings were available for purposes of comparison, and the weather during our sttiy at the forks was rather unsettled. The total full of the river, accordirg to those figures, is 560 feet, giving u slope of four feet to the mile for its entiie length, which, judging from analogy with other western rivei-s, is about what might bo expected from the appearance of the stream. The velocity of the current was estimated at about three miles an hour, as a general aver- age, but there are several little rapids, as well as some rather long tranquil reaches.^ The river, from Dease Lake to the Liard, may easily be dc Bcended in two daj'S, but the ascent is a comparatively slow process, depending much on the height of the water, and when the bars and beaches are not bare for tracking is a tedious affair. It is possible that the river might bo navigated by small stern-wheel steamers of gootl power, as there are no insuperable obstacles, but doubtful whether such an enterprise would be a remunerative one, even if the traffic were to assume proportions much greater than at present. Such goods as are now required at McDame Creek (fifty- five and a-half miles below Dease Lake by the course of the stream) and at the little trading post at the mouth of the river, are easily taken down stream in largo flat- bottomed boats, which go back light, by poling and tracking, mthout groat difficulty. The boating on the river has been done principally by crews of Coa.jt Indians, who are engaged and brought into the interior for the purpose. On leaving Dease Lake, the river is a small stream, estimated to r,,per average from 100 to 150 feet only in width, with a general middle '''^''^""^ depth of about three feet. It is extremely tortuous and i-athcr swift, meandering in a wide, flat valley. At about eight miles from the lake, it may be said distinctly to enter the mountains, the valley at the same time gradually narrowing and becoming bordered by mountains from 4500 to 6000 feet in height, which, on the 19th of June, still bore much snow on tfceir summits. At about thirteen :.nles from Dease Lake, it expands into a little lake about a mile and three-quartei*s in length, and between this and the mouth of Cottonwood Creek it flows through three more similar lake-like expansions, which are. respectively, a mile and a half, two miles and one mile in length. T* cse are probably formed ^1 ]^ . - (■ '■ ' M I art of 88 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH OOLUMBIA. in all cases by the partial blocking of the valley bjr debris brought in by tributary streams, of which Cottonwood Creek itself is the last and most important. These lakes constitute somewhat serious impedi- ments to navigation, as they freeze over in the autumn long before the ice takes on the river, and remain frozen till late in the spring. Small iskof. ^^'lid mountains by which the valley is hemmed in on both sides from First Lake to the Cottonwood are very rough and high, and chiefly, if not entirely^ composed of granitoid I'ockt?. About three miles and a-half north-west of Second Lake is a remarkable broken summit, with » height estimated at 7500 feet, which, from the peculiarity of its form, has been named Anvil Mountain. Running parallel with this and Third Lake is a sti*aight, well-detined range, the higher peaks of ^vhich attain an equal elevation, and which, for the sake of distinction and in consequence of the long slopes of broken rocks which descend from it, has been indicated on the map as the Skree Batig^ It is pro- bable that actual measurement will show that several of the peaks in this vicinity exceed 8000 feet. The vegetation was observed to be further advanced as soon as the Dease Hiver was fairly entered, show- ing how great must be the etfect of the ice which lingers on Dease Lake, in its immediate vicinity. There is also evidence of a less abund- ant rain-fall along the river. Tribattriof. Bease Biver rapidly incrcastis in size, and after the lake is left, soon doubles its volume, owing to the number of affluent streams, of which Cottonwood Creek is the first which mav be called a river. ThiH stream occupies an important valley, which may be observed to run for many miles in a north-westward direction, bordered by continuous high ranges. It is remarkable that no paying deposits of gold have ever been found either on this or on Eagle Biver, which enters the Dease from the south about four miles further down. Eagle River also flows between high mountains, and its valley appears to b«. paral- lel to, and analogous with, that occupied by Dease Lake.; It is evi- dently the *' Christie River" of McLeod,* but this name has entirely passed out of use, and it appeal's hopeless to endeavor to reinstate it. Cottonwood Creek is shown on Arrowsmith's maps, accoi-ding to McLeod and Campbell, but is not named. TertMw. Rock exposures are unfrequent in the banks of the portion of Dease River above described, though stratified gravel deposits are often cut into. There is also a considerable development of teiTaces at high levoln on the sides of some of the mountains, particularly in the part of the valley which runs aloug the base of the Skree Range. Well- * I have endeavored in all catea to identify the original namei given by the tint exrloren in thiicountry,and toaicertain as well the native namaaof placet, but where thetehave panrd t entirely cat of nie by the miner* and tradena now in the country, it becomai neoeiiary to drop them, though in ao doing the strict law of priority is, no doubt, tranigi«aMd> ight in last and impedi- fore the les from chiefly, ilea and ait, with iy of its irith this peaks of stinction descend It is pro- peaks in red to be •ed, show- on Dease >SB abund- I left, soon of which ThiH ed to run ontinuous gold have inters the gle Biver K paval- It is evi- entirely reinstate •oi-ding to L of Dease often cut )8 at higfi Ihe part of [ge. Well- It ezriorert in l« have putol leinry to drop OAWMM.J DEASE RIVER. 89 b IS Cj ;^l marked terraces were here seen on the west side of the valley, at an ' estimateil height 'of 2000 feet above the river, or about 4600 feet above the sea. ' Immediately below the mouth of Cottonwood Creek is the Cotton- cottonwoo* wood Eapid, in which the course of the river is impeded by a number jfoDa^t, of boulders. The rapid is not n formidable one, or at all dangerous to run, with oi*dinary care. (The river below Cottonwood Creek runs nearly due east for about ten miles, with a I'ather strong cun-entyl^It then turns more to the northward, and after making several large flexures, reaches Sylvester's Landing, at the mouth of McDame Creek, in about eight miles. In this reach the cun'ent is slack, and the river averages 300 feet in width.^ The flat land of the river-valley is rather wide in this part of iH length, but the mountains to the north and south arc high and bold, many of the summits itinging from 6000 to 7000 feet. The lower slopes of the mountains are usually light, and in general thickly wooded, but their higher parts are treeless, and from the quantity of snow borne by them in June, must retain some snow tliroaghout the summer. Immediately opposite the mouth of McDame Creek is a remarkably prominent and abrupt rocky mountain, which it is proposed to name Sylvester Peak. It height was estimated at 7000 feet, but the circumstances did not admit of its measurement.; Sylvester's Landing is the point of supply for the miners on McDame Syiv. siter s Creek, also a post for Indian trade, and there are here a few log-houses '"'' and store -buildings. Mi*. E. Sylvester has been resident iiere for a number of yeare, and readily gave us all the information and advice in his power. McDame Creek was discovered to be auriferous in 1874. It has since been constantly worked, and, with its tributaries, has yielded much gold, but is now believed to be nearly exhausted. ^^ Its valley is wide and important, running north-westwaid for about seven miles, and then tui*ning nearly due west. At the angle thus formed a low, wide pass leads through the mountains to the north-eastward, where it connects with the valey of the Dease. The appeai*ance of this paso, t*. m^' •*-i».»*S Belove the Bapid Biver the Dease changes its character considers becoming relatively wide, with numerous gravel-bars, and in places many islands, with frequent "drift piles" or accumulatior timber. Teirac^a are well shown on the sides of the mountains reach a height of about 2000 feet above the river. ^ A few miles before reaching the second great bend, a stream from the west, which has become known to the miners as Fr4 Creek, and is probably the " Detour River " of old maps. It rises on the north-east slope of the Cassiar Mountains, and is not large. The last main reach of the Dease is that which extends from the Lower part of Becond great bend to its mouth, a distance of thirty-one miles in a "" ^*"''* direction of N. SS** E. Though the course of the river is far from being direct, the general bearing leaves the base of the Cassiar Range nearly at a right-angle. The country becomes low and uninteresting, and assumes a rather dreary aspect, being covered generally with forest of inferior growth, often degenerating into swamp on northern aspects, and with only occasional grassy openings on slopes witii sunny exposures. In descending this part of the river, the mountuins soon become invisible from the river-valley, which is bordered by undulating lowlands, or low diffuse hills which rise to a plateau at some miles distant, from 400 to 500 foot above the stream. Banks of frozen soil were seen in one or twi> places beneath a peats- or mossy covering The climate is evidently somewhat more humid than be- fore and: less favorable to vegetation. The curient of the river is rather swift, and there are two or three inconsiderable rapids, but none of importance till within ab< four miles of the mouth, where there are several strong rapids, which at ceitiiin stages of the water are reported to be dangerous, and in which all our boats shipped more or less water. Terraces, as much as 300 feet in height, approach the 1 ivor in some places in this part of its course, and when cut into gene- rally show stratified gravels which sometimes rest directly on low cx|»08ure8 of rock. The larch (Larix Americana) was first seen five miles below the l,,,^!, soiond gi'cat bend, and below this place becomes qttite abundant iti told, swampy spots, where it grows with the black spruce {Picm ni(jra.) Blue River (the "Caribou River'" of Campbell) joins the Dease Blue River. twelve miles below the second great bend. It is a stream fifiy feet wide at the mouth, with clear water, and derives its supply from the north'Oastern slopes of the Cassiar Range, to the north of French Creek. The "Lower Post," which i^ the Airthest outwork of " civilization " "Lower Port." or trade in this direction, is situated at the edge of a terrace forty ri-'^ >\ ' \ tl T ft * I ' !-*-- ^^'^ 92b TUKON DISTUOT AMD BBITIBH OOLUHBIA. f^ Opening and olosiiig of the river. RmIu weit of granite range. Granitie rooks ofOastiar Monntains. Eait edge of granitee. in heiglit on the loft bank of the Liai-d, about half a mile iMb6vo the mouth of the Dease. It is of a very unpretentious charac- l»if consisting of a few low log buildings, in the vicinity of which the iHitods have been entirely destroyed by fire. The soil is poor near the post and the climate evidently unfavorable, bttt potatoes and turnips have been grown here in small patches. The Liard Biver is here said to open, as a rule, from the 1st to the 5th of May, though in 1887 this did not occur till the 18th of that month. In the autumn of 1886 it was frozen over on November 21st. Mr. Egnell, in sole charge, received us on our arrival here with all distinction possible, displaying his Union Jack and firing a salute fi-om his fowling piece. Before leaving wo were indebted to him for many other courtesies, all of which are hero gratefully acknowledged. Geology of the Dease River. It would be impossible, without the expenditure of much time, to make anything like a complete geological section on the line of the Dease, in consequence of the infrequency of rock-exposures on the river itself and the distance and rough character of the boi"dering mountain-slopes. The main geological features are, however, suflS- ciently apparent. For about twelve miles below the lake the rocks composing the mountains seem to be referable to the same Paleeozoic series, which has been described as occurring on Dease Lake, but the exposui-es examined appeared to be somewhat more highly altered, •and in some cases to approach the character of crystalline schists. One bedded rock is probably a diabase, with somewhat lustrous divi- sion planes and kernels of epidote. Beyond the point above defined, at the firat little lake, a granitic area is entered on, which may be regarded as constituting the axis of the Cossiar i-ange, and which extends on the river to the mouth of the Cottonwood, constituting the entire Skroe Bange, and apparently also Anvil Mountain and the surrounding high mountain region, with a tranveinse width of about thirteen miles. The granite here seen differs somewhat from that found on the Stikine in being more highly quartzose and occasionally garnetiferous. Mica is present in great abundance, and is in some specimens black, in others of charac- teristic pale, silvery colours. The existence of distinctly gneissic rocks was not ascertained, but the lithological character of the series resem- bles that of the lowest rocks of Shuswap Lake and other districts in the interior of British Columbia to the south, which have been provi- sionally referred to the Archaean. The valley of Cottonwood Creek appbars to coincide with the north, eastern edge of the granites for a number of miles. The mountains to ^ ■U 4 OAWtOH,] GEOLOOT OF THB DEASI RIVER. 93 b f a mile B charac- vhich the ravorable, ihee. Ist to the th of that nbei- 2l8t. e with all alute fi"om for many ;ed. ch time, to line of the ires on the 3 boi-dering ivever, Buffi- e the rocks le Pateozoic ake, but the hly altered, nine schiets. lustrous divi- 8 a granitic the axis of louth of the apparently region, with Le here seen 1 being more present in l-s of chai-ac- Ineissic rocks Series resora- districts in been provi- Ih the north, lountains lo the north of it, and extending eastward along the north side of tho Dease, are evidently composed of sti'atificd rocks, including important beds of limestone, the average dip being about N. 45° £. < 30°. The northern spur of the mountain which terminates the Skree Range, opposite the mouth of Cottonwood Creek, shows the overlap of the stratified rocks upon the granites at a considerable height above the river. The mountains which run southward on both sides of Eagle River valley seem to be also granitic for the most part, though a greenish-grey felsite was collected on tho river from the northern spur of the mountain to the east of the valley. Little was ascertained respecting the rocks composing the ™oun- Rooks of tnins between Eagle Biver and Sylvester's Landing, but gi-anite does not Mountainf. reappear in them. The range to the east of McDame Creek is largely composed of limestone, which, striking in a north-west and south-east direction, constitutes also tho mountains on the south side of the Dease. The dip is generally westward, at vai*ying angles, and the limestones are associated with reddish shales, and near the mouth of Rapid River were observed to bo interbedded with dolomitic layore and calcareous schists. The total thickness of tho strata brought to the surface along this part of the river must be veiy considerable. The lithological resemblance is close to the upper part of the Palaeozoic section on the Bow Pass, including the Banff, Intermediate and Castle Moimtain limestones of Mr. McConnell (Annual Report, 1886, part d). Lime- stones near the western or upper part of the river-section contain numerous obscure fossils, including brachiopods, corah, and apparently a sponge-like organism. I also satisfied myself of the occuiTonce of jj.^g„ij„,^ Fusulina on weathered surfaces, proving the Carboniferous age of the rocks in question. The pure limestones are usually grey and ai-e not highly ciystalline. Tho mountains boixioring the valley in the north-and-south part of its oour."ie, between the first and second great bends, appear to be com- posed throughout of similar rocks, though those on the west side ai-e imich better exposed than those on the east. Kloven miles south of tho second great bend, on the right bank o! Confused tho river, is a low, rocky cliff, about fifteen feet above t^e water, capped by about ten feet of bedded white silts. Tho rocks are black- ish, sandy shales, rather hai*d in some places, carbonaceous, and hold- ing a littlo impure lignite. They are extremely irregular in dip, and arc broken and jumbled up with a hard, grey quartzite, which is seen in places as the underlying rock, but is even then singularly shattered. Tho aspect of the shales is that of those of the Tertiary rocks, and it is possible that this locality represents an old shore line, but more pro- bable that the rocks form part of an ancient slide, or are upon the line of disturbance of a fault. ■■ r exposurp. 94 b TCTKOR DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. ^. SehMi and rUms of lower rirer. 1,1.-; Mf iii .'^BttF ft' .!|;i -fl];'" ' Iwu t- .'1 w Hi ft^ K m TriBMi' rooks '^^ ^^^ secoDd great bend there are a few exposures of a peculiar character, cooHisting of regularly bedded, dark, calcareous, flaggy argil- lites, alternating with grey, flaggy and massive limestones.} Litho- logically, these much resemble the Triassic of the West Coast, but no fossils could be found, though carefully sought for, and the evidence is quite too imperfect for the reference of the beds. The limestone is rather cherty, and gives out a fetid odor on being struck. The beds, as a whole, appear to form a synclinal. From the second great bend to the mouth of the Dease, the under- lying rooks consist of grey and black schists, the former generally calc-schists, and the latter more or less highly carbonaceous. They are interbedded with thin limestones, which often weather brown. The calc-schists are frequently glossy, and in some places form very thin, paper-like layers. Some of these rocks closely resemble those met with at the " Grand Bapid " on the Stikine p. 65 b. The general sti'ike is north-west by south-east, but the direction and angle of dip is very varied, and the beds are frequently much disturbed and twisted, and traversed by veins of quartz and calcite. There are pi*obably frequent repetitions of the name horizon, but the general arrangement may be synclinal, the dark shales and schists occupying the higher position, and being most abundant about the middle of this length of the river- section. Graptolites were found in the dark shales, pai*ticularly at a locality in a north bend of the river, eleven miles westwai-d in a direct line from the mouth, and in appearance the whole series is much like that of the Cambrian calc-schists and Cambro-Silurian graptolite-shales of the Kicking Horse (Wapta) valley, west of the summit, on the line of the Canadian Pacific Eailway. The general aspect and association of the rocks to the east of the granite axis of the Cassiar Bange closely resembles that of the Bocky Mountains about the 51st parallel, but differa in the large proportion of metamorphic materials of volcanic origin, which, from the debris brought down by streams, must be even more abundant than the exposures along the river would indicate. This difference is paralleled by the similar change which is met with on the 51st degree of latitude, in passing from the Bocky Mountains proper to the interior plateau of British Columbia. Noteongrap- A small collection of graptolites, made at the point above indicated, LlIpwortL^"* ' has been submitted by Mr. J. F. Whiteaves to Prof. Charles Lapworth, of Mason College, Birmingham, who has kindly examined them, and furnishes the following note. — "The graptolites collected by Dr. Dawson from the Dease Biver are identical with those examined by me from the rocks of the Kicking Horse Pass, some time last year. The species I notice in the Dease Biver collection are : — Compuriaion with rocks to south. OAWtON.] GIOLOGT OF THE DEABK RIVKR. 95 b Diplograptus euglyphns (Lapworth). CUtnacograptus, comp. antiquus (Lapworth). Cryptograptus tricomis (Can-u there). Glosaograptits ciliatus (Emrooua). Didymograptus, corap. Sagittarius (Hall). New form allied to Ccenograptua " The graptolito-bearing rocks are clearly of about middle Ordovician Age of the age. They contain forms which I would refer to the second or Black River Trenton period, i.e., they are newer than the Point Levis series and older than the Hudson and Utica groups. The association of forms ii^ such as wo find in Britain and Western Europe, in the passage-beds between the Llandeilo and Caradoc limestones. The rocks in Canada and New York with which these Dease River bods mav ])est be com- pared are the Marsouin beds of the St. Lawrence valley and the Nor- man's Kill beds of New York. The Dease River beds may, perhaps, be a little older than these. '• Mr. C. White described some graptolites from beds in the moun- tain region of the west, several yeai-s ago, which may belong to the same honzon as the Dease River zones, though they have a somewhat more recent aspect. " The specific identification of the Dease River fossils I regaixi as provisional. While the species correspond broadly with those found in their eastern equivalents, they have certain peculiarities, which may, after farther study or on the discovery of better or more perfect specimens, lead to their separation as distinct species or varieties. " It is exceedingly interesting to find graptolites in a region so far removed from the Atlantic basin, and also to note that the typical asso- ciation of Llandeilo-Bala genera and species is still retained practically unmodified." Overlying these old rocks, in several places at about eight miles Tertiary itnta. from the mouth of Ihe Dease, ai'e shaly clays and coarse, soft sand- stones, associated with which a thin bed of lignite was observed. These are evidently Tertiaiy, and referable to the series afterwards found more extensively developed on the Liai*d, above the mouth of the Dease. Some very obscure remains of leaves were noticed, but none were collected. The beds dip at various angles, sometimes as high as 15°, and thus appear to have been, to some extent, afiected by flexure subsequent to their deposition. It is not improbable that a consider- able part of the higher plateau by which the river is here boixlered on both sides, is composed of these newer rocks resting upon the upturned edges of the schists. ,J ^f * i. < i1 96b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Drift dapodU ■nd torrMM. 1 Hf' Some notes respecting the superficial geology of the Dease have already been given in connection with the general description of the river. It now only remains to add the following general observations. The scarped banks along the upper part of the river, to the first great bend, generally show stratified sands and gravels only, all or most of which may be classed as old river-gravels. Between the first and second great bends, well-bedded, yellowish-white siltH appear and are frequently exposed. The bedding is ied to, is 840 feet in width, and on the 24th of June 1887 was found to have a maximum velocity of 4*54 miles per hour. The river was not cross-sectioned, but, with an estimated depth of six feet for one-thii'd of its width, the quantity of water car- 'fialletia da lii Sooi^td do Otfographie , vol. x. p. 162. 7 -n 1: ' ' ,J 98 b TUKON DISTBIOT AND BRITISH OOLUMBIA. ried would amount to about 19,000 cubic feet per second.* This may ho regarded as a rough approximation for the mean stage of tho river, which, when in flood, probably carries at least double this volume of water. It is a turbid yellowish stream, and contrasts in this respect with the clearer water of the Dease, which river, at its confluence with the Liard, probably carries about half the volume of water above assigned to the latter. ^ Ohw-Mter of Fi'om the mouth of the Bease Eiver to the confluence of the Frances IWioMRivers. Kiver, the general bearing of the Liard is nearly due north-west, the distance, in a straight line, being thirty-three miles, or following the course of the river, forty-five miles. The Frances River, which was followed from the last-named point, disrcgai'ding its minor flexures, has a nearly direct north-and-south course. A straight line drawn from the mouth of the Dease to the lower end of Frances Lake is ninety- four miles in length, but the distance between these points, following the flexures of the river, is one hundred and thirty-five miles. Almost every foot of this distance had to be made by poling or tracking against the rapid stream, and as our boats were heavily laden and not as well suited in build as they might have been for the work, the ascent to Frances Lake occupied twelve days, or an average distance of about eleven miles a day only. As the river was entirely unknown to us and some time was unavoidably lost in reconnoitering rapids and selecting portages, besides the delays incident to surveying work and geological examination, I believe, that with a good boat and crew, the ascent to the lake might be made in about half the above time at the same stage of water. In very high water it would bo extremely diffi- cult to pass through some parts of the caSons, while at exceptionally low stages of water, when it would be possible to substitute tracking for poling in many places, the distance might be accomplished in ever, less time. Lower CauoD. Six miles above the mouth of the Dease, by tho course of the river, the entrance of the Lower Canon is reached. The fUll height of the plateau through which the river here cuts, is about 500 feet, but banks of .this height seldom abut directly on the river. The upper parts of these banks are composed of stratified sands and gravels, but the lower part of the gorge is cut through shaly and slaty rocks, which are perpendicular or form very steep slopes, averaging about a hundred feet in height. The cation is three miles in length, and at high water it is said to be necessary to portage the whole of this distancd^ We were obliged to lighten the boats and make four small portages over rooky points, where the current was dangerously swift. The latitude, * Estimated by approximate formula, Trautwine'a Engiac^rs' Pooket-book, 1882, p. S62. Tk« depth above anigned to the river ia probably too small. .■!'.- V OAWSON.] UPPKR LIARD RIVSR. 99 b I * This may stage of the )le this volume in this respect onfluence with f water above of the Frances north-west, the r following the ver, which was minor flexures, ine drawn from Lake is ninety- loints, following I miles. Almost tracking against and not as well k, the ascent to istance of about unknown to us ring rapids and ^eying work and »at and crew, the bove time at the extremely diffi- at exceptionally bstitute tracking mplished in ever. irse of the river, \ill height of the 0 feet, but banks e upper parts of gravels, but the ity rocks, which about a hundied nd at high water is distanc^ We 11 portages over The latitude, ok, 1882, p. 862. The Lower Oafion. observed &i noon near the middle of the cafion, was 60" 01' 06". Find. ing that we were so near the tiorthern boundary of British Columbia (Lat. 60**), we made a small oairn of stonea on a prominent rocky point, in the ceatre of which a post was erected, on which the latitudo was marked. The 60th parallel may be said to coincide almost exactly with the lower end of the cailon. The rocks seen in the Lower Caffon i-esemble those described as cha- Rookti of racterizing the lower part of the Dease Biver atid Deaf>.e Lake, being shales or schists, which in some places show slaty structure. They are generally dark with plumbaginous matter. With theee are associated grey, somewhat glossy schists, and calcareous schisU, which pass in some places into pretty pure, thin-bedded Tmestones. Quartzites are also present, and all the rocks are occasionally locally ailicifled. The whole series is much disturbed and contorted, jid is broken by innu- merable small, irregular seams and veins of c^uartz and calcite, with ROine dolomite, though no well-marked or important lodes were seen. (riilona is reported to have been found in some of the veins, and to have yielded a small return in silver on assay. Above the Lower Cafion the river continues swift, the current aver- River from Hiring about four miles an hour, and much exceeding this rate in many Francos. i-ca<'hes. Tt is wide and shallow, and in places becomes a complete iiiazeof islands and gravePv', half-submerged bars, causing much diffi- culty and loss of time from the frequent necessity of crossing from ,ono to another of these to avoid under-cut banks, with water too deep tor poliog. Our actual travelling time from the Dease to the mouth of the Frances, deducting all stoppages, was thirty-eight hours and a(inarter. The river-vaiiey averages about two miles in width, and is cut out to II depth of 300 feet or more in the plateau, which occasionally rises tlirectly from the rivei-bank to its full height, though the stream is usually boi*dered by terraces of inferior height, alternating with low tlats, which occupy the concRve sides of the bends. The higher ground is generally wooded with spruce, while the black pine (Pinus Murrayanayis abundant on dry terraces, and groves of Cottonwood of medium siz^ often occur on the flats, Aspen poplar is not uncommon, and a few birch and larch trees were seen. Little of the timber is of useful size or quality. The dry bars and gravelly flats were, when we passed, gay with Epilobium latifolium, Oxytropis campestris, 0. Lamberti and Dryas Drummemdii^ ftpd tha wild roses wore rapidly coming into flower. About^imdwajMbetween the Dease and Frances a small rivei enters RanoherU ^ , -^ River from the south-westward, which has been called the Banchoria Biver, but of which I do not know the native name. It appeara to debouch by several mouths when in flood, and apparently rises in the eastern 100 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. fe'* ;. V . ..i 1* Confluence of 1, s limrd iind Francos. J*. 0; slopes of the Cassiar Bange. A few miles above this, on the opposite side of the river, a small lake, reputed to bo well stocked with fish, is reported. Aboat seven miles bolow the mouth of the Frances, on the boiith west bank, i^ an old Indian camping place, which is said to be frequented at certain seasons by the Tahl-tan Indians for purposes of trade. It is reached by these people by some overland route which {•losses the Cassiar Mountains to the north of the Dease Biver. The Liard is full of islands at its confluence with the Frances, render- iui? it diflScult to estimate the relative importance of the two streams, but they appeared to cany about an equal quantity of water. The Liai-d is, however, evidently more subject to freshets ; Frances Lake doubtless serving to regulate the flow of the Frances River, tlio water of which is a clear, pale, amber color, and does not thoroughly mingle with the yellowish, turbid water of the Liard for some milos. Above the confluence, the Liard valley is seen to trend off in a south-westerly dir*iction for ten miles or more, after which it again turns to the north- westward, and, from the scanty information available conot^ruing it, seems to flow along the eastern side of the northern continuation of tho Cassiar Eange, from which it receives most of its watei-. Skyyea Creek. On Comparing the statements of the few miners I have seen who have ascended this river, it appears that Sayyea Creek, which is an inconsiderable stream, flows in from the wetsfc nbout fifty-five miles above the mouth of the Frances. Good gold "prospecvsj" were found on this creek in 1875, a number of pieces worth ten dollars having been obtained, but little work has over been done. Of a party of miners who spent the winter of 1814-75 in its vicinity four died of scurvy. Of the other tributaries of the Liard, which must be numer- ous, I have been unable to ascertain an /thing authentic. Bespecting the names of the Liard and Frances rivers, it should be mentioned that Campbell called that which is now known as tho Liard the " Bell Biver," after Mr. J. Bell, of the Hudson Bay Company. Under this designation it appears rn Arrowsmith's map of 1854, the name Liard being applied to the branch now known as tho Francos. Usage has, however, changed the first nomenclature, and it is undesir- able to attempt to revert to the original names, as, irrespective of tho question of relative size, the physical characteristics of the Liaitl below the confluence are undoubtedly continued on the west rather than on tho cast branch above that point. The Indian name of the Frances is identical with that of the Dease, being Too-tsbo-tooa', or " Big Lake Biver." Bocks like those of the Lowei* CaSon are seen at intervals for about tv;0 miles above its head, beyom' which, for about three miles, stratitied gravels and sands only appear in the banks. Six miles from the canon Namea of Liard and Frances Riven. BookR above the Oaflon. OAWtON.] UPPEB LIARD RIVER. 101 B le opposite ith fitih, is cos, on the ) said to be purposes of oute which or. cc!*, rencler- vo sti-cums, vater. The i-ani-es Lake r, thi' water rhly mingle les. Above nth- westerly to the north- mcoruing it, iitinuation of 31*. ive seen who which is an •ty.five miles " were found ollars having )f a party of four died of ist be numei- it should be as the Liai-d ivy Company, of 1854, the the Francos, it is undcsii- lectivo of the [e Liard below ■ather than on be Frances ia ,r "Big Lake mis for about liles, stratitied lom the canon Tertiaiy clays of whitish and grey colours, and associated with impure lignito, ai'e first met with, and these continue to appear here and there along the river as far as the Frances. The thickest bed of lignite i^jgn,,^ observed was about three feet, four miles below the Frances. The lignite is generally impure and often veiy distinctly laminated. It resembles in character the lignites of the Miocene of British Columbia, and the associated clays and soft shales are similar in charact«r to those of that formation. Numerous boulders of basalt are found along Bnfintt. this part of the river, and the basalt was observed to form a mural cliff, at a height of about 300 feet above the river, at a place just below the mouth of the Bancheria Bivor. This i-ock evidently over- lies the lignite-bearing beds. The shaly clays and lignites show evi- dence of considerable disturbance, and dip in some places at rather • high angles. This may be duo to the action of old land-slides along • the banks of the river, but appeals to be rather too constant to be satisfactorily accounted for in this way. Xear the mouth of the Frances the white silts again become a pi*o- white silts. miiient feature, though scarcely seen lower down the river. They overlie the Tertiary rocks and hold concretions of various forms hero and there. They are capped by the usual stratitied sands and gravels, which generally have a yellowish or rusty colour. The gravel bare and the shores of this part of the Liard are almost Gold, half composed of rolled quartz pebbles, which have evidently been derived from veins traversing relatively soft schisto.se rocks like those of the canon. ) The great quantity of such vein material present in this district may be regarded as a favorable indication in respect to mineral development. Some small bars have paid to work along this part of the river, and gold is also found in some layers of the gravel deposit which overlies the older rocks along the canon and above it, where " wages " at 64 a day can bo made. The amount of cover which it soon becomes necessary to remove in following the paying layers, has prevented extensive mining, but probably these gravels might be advantageously worked as a whole, by sluicing or by the hydraulic method. No general view of the country can bo obtained from the' river, aenomi owing to woods and the depth of the valley,! but from high points of?]P,''country." banks above the livor, near the Frances, a largo area may be over- looked. Thus seen, the country is found to be a wide, rolling plateau, with an average elevation of about 500 feet above the river, or say 2700 feet above the sea. It rises here and there, however, in broad, founded swells, or flat-topped higher plateaux with steep edges, and a considerable part of this higher ground is at an elevation of about 1000 foet above the river.) (The plateau is everywhere wooded, except OHsiar Range. Monntains to the east- Tertiary plateau. 102 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. where intersected by grassy or mossy swamps of small area. Ttiere is a large triangular region of country of this kind between the Upper Liard and Dease, which is bounded to the westwai-d by the front of the Cassiar Bange, the sharp, rocky peaks of which carry a considerable quantity of snow and run along the horizon line for many miles, but which, with the exception of a few outlying summits, is at a minimum distance of about twenty-five miles from the mouth of the Frances. Tho T^ame low country runs in a north-north-westward direction, without appai'ent limit, forming the upper part of the Liard valley. To the eastward it is bounded, at a distance of about ten miles, by a eompaia- ti^ely low range of rounded mountains and hills, which, from the Indian name of one of its salient points to the northward, may be called the Tses-i-uh Bange. The part of this range nearest to the con- fluence of the Frances and I.iard has an elevation estimated at about 3500 feet above the sea. Like other main features of the country, it runs in a north-north-west by south-sonth-east direction, but dies out completely befoie reaching the Tpper Liard Eiver, which, if con- tinued, it would do at the Lower Canon. It is probable, indeed, that the cafion is produced by the river cutting across the extension of the same ridge of rocks which produces these hills. The general uniformity of the plateau appears to be largely due to the Tertiary rocks, which doubtless underlie almost its entire area. The appearance of some of the flat-topped hills above alluded to is suggestive of the occurrence of sheets of basalt overlying the softer rocks. The fci-ms of the Tses-i-uh Mountains show that they are not thus composed, but Tertiary rocks may again occur beyond them, in the valley of the McPherson or Highland River, which is not far off. FrANOKS BiVER. Month of Frances to Middle Cafion, Terrace. The general direction of the Frances, for nine miles from its mouth, is north-north-west. It then bends to the north- eastward, and in four miles the lower end of the Middle Gallon is reached. For the first few miles above its mouth the Frances is extremely tortuous, so much so that th'e distance following the actual course of the river to the foot of the cafion is twenty-two miles. This river, like the Liaid, was at a me- dium stage near the end of J une, 1887. Murks along the banks showed that it had been about six feet higher in the spring, and that it had since been falling^ its average width in this part is aboilt 600 feet, and the rate of the current, at the medium stage above referred to, about four miles and a-half an hour. The highest land immediately bordering on this part of the river is a terrace at a height of about 160 feet above it, the surface of which is a. Hiere is 1 the Upper front of the considerable ly miles, but taminimuin ranccf*. The ;ion, without ley. To the Y a conipara- ;b, from the vard, may be 8t to the con- ited at about 10 country, it but dies out rhich, if con- deed, that the n of the same uniformity of rocks, which ce of some of occurrence of f the Tses-i-uh ertiary rocks 'cPhei-son or [om its mouth, I, and in four |r the first few IS, 80 much so to the foot of I, was at a me- banks showed [d that it had ibodt 600 feot, e referred to, )f the river is ice of which is It , OAWMN.] FRANCES RIVKR. 103 b in some places composed of almost pure sand, upon which open woods of Pinus Murrayana grow. Larch was observed to bo moderately . abundant in damp, shady localities and the banks were in some places diversified with flowers, of which Potentilla fruticosa and Primula tnis- tassinica were specially noted. Numerous small exposures of Tertiaiy shales and clays, of grey, E.\|.oaurc» in blackish and yellowish tints, occur along this part of the river. Lig- " "^" *' iiito is strewn in great quantities over some of the bars, and though tliin seams occur in places in the banks, it is pi-obable that thicker ones exist in the bed of the river. The lignite often holds drops of fossil resin or amber. The Tertiary rocks are very generally covered by silts, like those already several times alluded to. In a bank near the mouth of the river, which gives a complete section fiom the top of the terrace above described, the lowest deposit consists of roughly stratified gravel and clay, with some glaciated boulders. This is fol- lowed by the siltj, which are again in turn covered by stratified sands and gravels. The lowest deposit probably represents the boulder-clay, and resembles that of the Upper Pelly Eiver, subsequently described. Quartz is not so abundant aconstituent ofthegravel of the river-bars on this part of the Frances as it is on the Liurd below, and no basalt blocks or boulders were observed here. The Middle Canon, as it may be called J'or the purpose of distinguish -Mi idioCanon. ing it, is about three miles in length, the river being hemmed in by broken, rocky cliffs of 200 to 300 feet in height for the greoier part of this distance. We took our boats up along the south-east bank, making four short portages of part of the stuff, and ;,wo of both boats and load, across narrow, rocky points. One portage of greater length, on the opposite bank, would overcome all the really bail water, but the banks on that side are rougher, and the whole force of the current sets against the cliff in one place in a dangerous manner. The total fall in the canon is estimated at about thirty feot. This canon is evidently produced by the southern extremity of a second range of mountains parallel to the Tses-I-uh Mountains, but to the west of that range. This southern spur, though submerged in the' Tertiary and drift materials iy which the general surface of the coun- try is covered, nevertheless presents a rocky bai*rier to the passage of the river, am i' this place constitutes the eastern margin of the Tor- tiuiy basin, no oeds referable to which are seen further up the Frances. The lange of mountains here referred to may, for convenience, bo n:iined the Simpson Mountains, The exposures in the lower part of this carton show limestones, some Hockx of tho of which are moderately pure, but others ai-e nearly half composed of ^*"""" small, more or less rounded fragments of siliceous and schistose rocks. i:>im'i. Fusalina. 1 1 mT'-f^,.Jiei d ,;fe'l'l(i- Baffinning of monnteinouB ooantry. I'tSHMSJUn Simpson Luke. ir.-i'MMi 104 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. These weather to rough surfaces, and have a very peculiar aspect, as an intense pressure appears to have flattened the contained fragments paral- lel to a single direction.^ These limestones are associated with several va- rieties of calc-schists, with haixl, gr jyish-blue, cherty quai*tzite, with schistose breccia, which appears to have been originally of volcanic origin, and with some pretty evident volcanic agglomerate. Further up, the rocks have been completely shattered and variously changed in ap- pearance by solfataric or some similar action, some parts being bleached, while othere are reddened by the deposition of iron, forming cliflis of a remarkably varied appearance. The upper gate of the cafion is com- poeed of white cliffs of marble and quartzite, all much shattered. The marble and limestones are in places associated with red shales, re- sembling those found in a similar association on the Dease, near the eastern edge of the Cassiar Eange, and the rocks of this part of the section are probably like those, of Carboniferous age. Specimens of Fumlina, with polyzoa, etc., are found in some of the limestones on microscopical examination. Stratigraphically, the rocks seen in the Sections are all much confused and broken, and the angles of dip are very vai'ied, though the strike may, in a general w. /, be given as north-porth-west. The Simpson Mountains which are upon this line of strike are doubtless composed of rocks of the same character. Above the Middle Cailon, the general course of the river is again north-north-westward for about twelve miles. It is here usually bor- dered by quite low land on both sides, and the valley between the southern end of the Simpson Mountains and uorthora part of the Tsos-i uh Eange is about three miles in width. The wide, uniform })lateau countiy is now, however, lefL behind, and we enter a generally mountainous region, though the highest summits in this immediate vicinity scarcely exceed 3000 feet above the river. Their forms are rather rounded and flowing,4nd the slopes of those on the east bank ill e nearly bare of trees, while the opposite range is generally wooded, but evidently with trees of small growth. The river itself is wide and deep, with a rather slack current. A single exposure only, composed of grey-green, silvery schist, was seen along this part of the river^i Near the end of this reach of the river, two considerable streams enter on the west side, and on one or other of these, at no great dis- tance from the river, Simpson Lake of McLeod and Campbell is situ- ated. As the Indians who had accompanied us from the mouth of the Dea»e had deserted before we reached this place, I was unable to ascertain any definite particulars respecting the lake, though it is reported to be a good one for fish. The position of Simpson Lake, as indicated by broken lines on the map, must therefore be regai*ded as quite uncertain. The same doubt applies to the Ind,ian names of OAWMN.] FBANOIS UIVKR. 106 b iar aspect, as an ragments paral- with several va- quai'tzite, with illy of volcanic ite. Further up, r changed in ap- I being bleached, I'ming clifFs of a e caflon is com- . shattered. The I red shales, re- Dease, near the his part of the ). Specimens of e liniestones on )ck8 seen in the le angles of dip w /> be given as B upon this line ) chai'acter. le river is again here usually bor- lley between the orn part of the e wide, uniform enter a generally this immediate Their forms are on the east bank enerally wooded, itself is wide and only, composed of the river)! liderable streams at no great die- Campbell is situ- he mouth of tho was unable to ke, though it is limpson Lake, as |e be regai-ded as ndian names of several rivers tributary to the Francos above this point, for although Tributaries of one of the local Indians had made for us, upon a sheet of canvas used* " '■now. as a boat cover, an elaborate charcoal drawing of the whole system, it proved to be extremely difficult to recognize the features repre> sented. The Indian map, such as it is, serves to show that the streams tributary to the Frances- Biver rise in a number of lakes, some of which are reported to be of considerable size, and offer a most attractive field for further exploi-ation. We were told, however, that none of the lakes in this region are equal in size to Frances Lake, for which wo were heading, a statement borne out by the circumstance that both this and Dease Lake are known in their respective districts as Tootsho, or " big lake," while the Frances and Dease rivers are, as already mentioned, both similarly named Too-tsho-tooa', or *' big lake river." From the point just noted, the direction of the river changes to north-east, cutting across the direction of the Tses-i-uh range, which terminates at the edge of the river in low, wooded hills. (The current is moderately swift throughout, and in one place the river is boixiered i-aUc Cafum. on both sides by low, rocky banks, but no rapids are met with. This we named the False Canon^ One or possibly two streams enter from a valley which runs tp the east of the range just mentioned, but they are not of large size. ( 6reyish«green, quartzose mica-schist and greenish silvery schists were seen in one or two places, and in the low rocky banks above alluded to, blackish argillites and grey quartzites, of a less altered appearance than usual, but from which no fossils were obtained, occur.) From the end of this reach the general course of the stream again be- Rivor nhpve oomes north-north-west for about thirteen miles, running for the greater part of this distance parallel to, and a mile or two miles from the base of a mountain range, which comes in to the east of the Tses-I-uh Eange. The country to the west of the river is here either flat or characterized merely by low, rounded and wooded hills for many miles back, tho eye innging across this country to the continuation of the Simpson Mountains, which, with geneially rounded forms and iio striking sum- mits, reach elevations of 6000 to 6500 feet.^(These mountains do not foi-m a strictly connected range, but appear rather as a series of moun- tainous areas, separated by wide, low passes.X The Indian map above leferred to shows three or four lakes in this region, supplying al.ake«. stream named Too-tahl-too-a, which flows into the Frances, reachir.g it probably just above the Upper Cafion. Kone of these lakes were visible from any point reached by us. On the opposite side, one stream of considerable size joins the Frances. This is supposed to bo the Agd-zl-za of the Indians, and, if so, is represented as rising in a chain of small lakes, some of which drain in an easterly direction • -li ' i;:t:iC h 106 b TUKON DISTRICT AND BBITISH COLCTMBIA. Ife Character of the Diuuiil.'iiiif to the Macpherson (Eg-is-e-too'-a) River. The valley ocoapiod by these lakes is a travelled route employed by the Indians. Oranitio rocki!. The current is swifter in the upper than in the lower portion of this part of the Frances, and there are numerous islands in the river) but no rock-exposures occur. The mountains to the east of the river are high, but have blunt, rounded foi'ms. Much- bai-e rock shows in their bides, but there is no appearance of ^stratification, and this, with their form and color, and the great abundance of that material found in the streams in this vicinity, renders it nearly certain that they ai*e com- posed of granite^ The mountains so far met with in the vicinity of the Frances form rather isolated ranges or masses, which rise somewhat abruptly, om generally low country, or are separated by wide valleys, the appear- ance being that of a mountain system partly buried in later deposits ;^ though no Tertiary rocks, either in place or as loose fragments, are met with above the Middle Caiion. The granitic mountains last refeiTcd to form an outlying spur or butti-ess of the most important range of the district, the axis of which is here about twelve miles cast of the river. This it is pi-oposed to designate the Too-tsho Mange.* The southernmost high summit observed was named, from its form, Tent Peak. It is situated in latitude 60° «2' 45", and has an altitude of 7860 feet above the sea^ The river next makes an abrupt turn to the west for four miles, a mile and a-quarter of this distance being occupied by a series of rapids, which are rocky and rather strong, and have a total fall of about thirty feet. The banks rise steeply fi'om the river to heights of 100 to 200 feet, though the rocky cliffs along the water are of inconsiderable height, scarcely anywhere exceeding fifty feet. This place may be named the Upper Canon, and is the last serious impediment to the navigation of the river. We found it necessary to make several short portages, but with a large boat and at a good stage of the river, it is pi'obable that one portage -of about 1000 feet in length, on thei south bank, would, oyorcomo all the dangerous water, while the boat might be tracked up light. A stream, with moderate current at the mouth and about fifty ieet wide, enters a short distance below the cafion, coming from the mountains to the north of Tent Peak. The rocks of the Upper Cafion comprise black, glossy calc-schists, black quartzite or chert, bluish limestone, and some green-grey, silvery schist. Simi- lar rocks are seen again a couple of miles up the river, above the cafion, where a rapid occurs. The dips are all low, and so far as observed, uniformly in a northerly direction. Some of the schists are highly Upper Cnnrn. Rocks of Upper Cai'ion • From the native name of Frances Lake- range, if indeed it has any such. I was unable to ascertain the Indian name of this OAWMN.] FRANCES RIYEB. lOtB • run on to O ftn nam* of this silioified by action subsequent to their deposition, and pai'ts of all the rocks, including the limestone, are reticulated with narrow quartz seams. Near the upper part of the cafion some hai-d conglomerates occur, holding schistose fragments, as well as limestone pebbles, in which orinoidal joints are observable. It is not improbable that two unconformable series of rocks occur here, but I was unable to find means of distinguishing them in the sections.''- From the Upper Cailon to Frances Lake, a distance of twenty-one Upp't r. miles and a-half in a straight lino, the river maintains a northerly direction with considerable uniformity. It is de^, with a moderate current, for about eight miles, or to Moose fslandlabove which for ten miles the current is again swift, averaging from four and a-half miles to live miles an hour. N^t again becomes slack for a short distance below the lake. (Some portions of this part of the river are much broken up u^ by islands and gravel barsT) The rivoi-valley averages about ton miles in width, extending to the slopes of the Too-tsho Bange on the east, and being bounded to the westward l;y a series of rounded mountains, which diverge to the northward IVom the direction of the first-men- tioned range, and run to the west of Frances Lake. These I propose to name the Campbell Mountains, for Mr. R Campbell, whose initial ex- jiloratary trip through this country fur the Hudson Bay Company is t Isowhere referred to at length. The valley is partly occupied by tenate-flats, and partly by wooded . hills or ridges with rounded or flowing foims but which rise in some places to heights of several hundred feet. The Too-tsho Bange is here very [■„ ,.t„j,o Range compact and regular, and runs due north-und-south, the higher summits reaching 6500 to 7000 feet, and currying some snow, though nothing like true glacier-ice was anywhere seen. The lower slopes of the range toward the river- valley are singularly uniform and light. J Two or three streams of some size enter the river from the eastwai-d in this piut of its course. All that could be gathered respecting these is shown on the map. The furthest north was named Tyer's Eiver by Campbell, and is known to the Indians as Pas-ka'. The exact position ot its mouth was not definitely ascertained. On approaching the lake, low ridges and irregular mounds begin tOMominic appear in the vicinity of the river, projecting through the lower ter- '^'*'«'^' laces and suggesting the existence of morainic deposits. Large bould-^^ l^i^l . ers also become abundant in the river-bed. No rock-exposures what- ever were seen along this part of the river. Our actual working time on Frances Iliver, from its month to the xraveiiing lake, was sixty-seven hours and a-half. C The difference of level between p^noe" Rirer. * If «c, the rooks here noted may represent the Cretaceoua to which they are lithologieally similar. 7 V J> 108 b YUKON DI8TBI0T AND BBITI8H COLUMBIA. Frances Lake and the mouth of the Dease is 477 feet. By assigning ninety feet of this to the fall in the three cafions, and dividing the remainder by the total length of the river (less the aggregate length of the cafions), we obtain an average rate of descent very slightly exceed- ing three feet to the mile, which is about what might be anticipated from the current met with in the river, as compared to that of other Ktreams in the district. Frances Lake and Vicinity. it. >^i rrancoa Lake. The clcvation of Fianccs Lake above the sea, as detei-mined by a ^iorios of barometer observations extending from the 8th to the 16th of •Tuly, is 2577 feet. Three miles fiom its lower end, the lake bifurcates, forming two approximately equal and nearly parallel arms, with lengths of about thirty miles. The two arms are alx)ut eight miles iipart^and are separated by a group of low, rounded mountains, the culminating point of which, with an elevation of 5230 feet, was named Simpson's Tower by Campbell, the lake itself receiving its name at the name lime iji honour of Lady Simpson. The eastern side of its east arm is boi-deied by the Too-tsho Eange oi- liills attached to it, while I )»o country to the west of the west ai-m rises more gradually to the bases of the Campbell Mountains, some miles distant. Though so far rol'erred to as a single lake, this body of water is in reality entitled to be considered as a group of lakes. The upper end. of the west arm, with a length of five miles and a-half, is separated from the main por- t ion of the same arm by a river-like constriction over a mile in length, while the east arm is entered by a narrow antl inconspicuous opening with a strong current flowing out, and the leal extent of this hria. ^ seen only after passing, for about seven miles, through a series of irre- gular basins and small lake-like expansions connected by naiTOWs, in which a very perceptible current is found. It appears best, however, to retain Campbell's original name lor the whole body of water, rather than to multiply names for which there is no immediate call. Except in its bifid form, for which there are several parallels, and which results merely from the convergence of two valleys of similar charactei*(^ Frances Lake closely resembles a large number of lakes in the mountainous regions of British Columbia, and has the long narrow parallel-sided outline characteristic of lakes which occupy old valley- excavations, the drainage of which has become interrupted in various ways. In this case, as in a number of others, there can be little doubt, that the lake is held in by morainic accumulations.. The great number of bouldere near its outlet has already been referred to, and the lumpy, ii-regular mounds and ridges composed of dotrital matter, on the lower Chnrncter ol' its valley. OAWMN.] FRANCIS LAKE AND VICINITT. 109 b assigning iding the length of ly exceed- Qticipated ,t of othei" mined by a the 16th of bifurcates, irms, with light miles mtains, the was name'l aame at the ! of its east to it, while ually to tho lOUgh so far Y entitled to 0 west arm, »e main por- le in length, (US opening this arfli S- sries of irre- naiTOWS, in fst, however, ater, rather ill. arallels, and js of similar of lakes in jlong narrow old valley- id in various little doubt, |reat number tho lumpy, m the lower seven miles of the oast arm, as well as on the con*esponding portion of the west arm, appear without doubt to represent moraines in a more or less degraded condition. Tho average width of the upper poi*- tions of both arms, above those interruptions, is pretty uniformly main- tained at about a milo nnd n half, such irregularities as occur being produced by gravelly and sandy flats a tew feet above the water-level, which have been formed at the mouths of entering streams. Tho extent and uniformity of these points, is such as to show that tho InUo must have remained, during a long period, approximately at its present level. The most important of these low points is that which separates the upper part of the west arm, already referred to, and is due to the Finlayson River.* The next is produced by a second stream which enters on the same side five miles and a-half below. This stream is somewhat smaller than the Finlayson, and is known to the Indians as tho [l-es-too'-a. Except along the upper part of the eastern side of the east aim, tho Country i • 1 1 1 1 1 I • n 1 1 1 111 sarromnling inountams do not slope down abruptly to the shores of the lake. I'Aso- the kkc. wiiore, the lake is almost continuously bordered by a terrace-like plateau, wliich is widest to the west, and has an average elevation ot about .JOO feet. This reseml^es the low country found about Deasc Lake. though even more uniform and less sloping in character, and is not far from the samo actual elevation above the sea in both cases. The streams entering the lake generally cut down through the edges of this plateau-like margin, in deep narrow gorges, the sections in which show that it is composed largely of lock, though levelled up to some extent by the addition of superficial gravelly dopo.sits. This fact appears [^pyj?,|"j,;^ to indicate that the lake or tho drainage level of tho country was maintained for a very prolonged period at or near the height of this plateau before the base-level of erosion was so lowered as to permit of the excavation of the lower valleys in which the lake now lies. There is, in addition to this, a second lower terrace, not so well marked, and not often of great width, at an elevation of ninety feet aVjove tho lake. This is seen on both arms, and is composed of gravel and other dotrital deposits. It is specially conspicuous al'out the mouths of the entorini;- streamsyand marks a later stage at which the water of tho lako stood, for a relatively short time, subsequent to tho glacial period. Few lakes which I have seen surpass Frances Lako in natural beauty, picturcMme and the scenery of the east arm, bordered on the east by the rugged **'*'"*^'" masses of the Too-tsho Range, is singularly striking. The mountains of this range are very varied in form, and a number of points surpass TOGO feet in height, while one was found to attain an elevation of about * So named by Campbell after Chief Factor Dunoan Finlaygon, afterwards a member of the n. B. Co. Board of Direetora. 11 H.. 1 -HoS^'K '3 «&'» '& e •a o3"ei •« Hn a m •HoS^'N ■»si..* •aosy-Ki iWvi Mi 'M. ovith tolerable e - tainty, the stream which Campbell had named the Finlayson. It v supposed that the Indians might have employed the same route in ci.t periodical journeys which they were known to make from the Pelly down the Frances to the little trading post at the mouth of the Doase; but though the lemains of an old log cache of the Hudson Bay Company were eventually found, together with the nails and iron work of a large boat which had evidently been bui'nt on the beach near it, no sign of a trail could be discovered. It thus appeared very doubtful whether we should be able to make our way across to the Pelly, with" suffi- cient provisions and the necessary instruments for the continuation of our survey in the Yukon basin. In order to exhaust the possibility of obtaining further assistance I before making the attempt, I made a light trip in one of our bonU round into the east arm, which was known to exist from Campbell's report, but the narrow entrance to which had not even been observed on our way up the lake. This also enabled me to sketch the east arm, but no Indians were found; in fact, we discovered traces of only a j single camp which had been made during the same summer, most of| the Indian signs being two or more years old. All that now remained to be done was to make the best of our own! resources. Wo^ therefore, wont carefully over all our stuff, separatingj out everything which was not absolutely essential, and making up (hej remainder in packs, together with as much food as could be carrii This done, we stowed a groat part of our camp equipage, togetheij with some provisions, in a strong log cache, which was constructed for tbij purpose in the bay immediately south of the mouth of the FinlayHOii OAWtoN.] COUNTRY BETWEEN FRANCES LAKE AND PELLT RIVEEU 115 B and moved round to the north side of the deltn of that stream, to what we believed to be the best point from which to start. We then hauled out our two boats, and on the 17th and 18th of July carried our remain- ing stuflf to a point some miles up the Finlayson and above the cafion and cascades, which render its lower part utterly impassable. Here Difficult land we set up the Osgood canvas boat, which wo had also carried over. **"•"«•• Into this a portion of our stuff was put, and two of our Coast Indians were instructed to endeavor to track it up the shallow and winding stream, while the i-est of the party found their way as best they could along the valley, with heavy packs. The walking was extremely fatiguing on account of the deep moss, alternating with brush and swamps, and as in addition, the weather was very warm and the mosquitoes innumerable, our rate of progress was slow. On arriving at the forks of the stream we unfortunately took the wrong branch lor several miles, leading to some loss of time, but we eventually reached a lake which we recognized as Finlayson Lake, on July 24th. The canvas bont did not ai'rive till the evening of the next day, as great difficulty was met with in getting it up the shallow stream, which was badly blocked with fallen trees, in the meantime, observa- ations for latitude and time were taken, and a raft was constructed on which the stuff might be floated to the head of the lake, which lay in the general direction of our route. The lake proved to be nine miles and a-half in length, and near itsSfaoh ^ ° ' Finlayson Lake head we again found the ruins of a Hudson Bay cache, but no appear- ance of a trail. Having selected j-he most promising looking place from which to continue our journey, we took out the raft-sticks, in order that they might remain dry and serviceable for our Indians on their return, and made a second small cache of provisions. The Osgood boat brhig almost worn out by its hard usage on the Finlayson, and being" beoidos quite too heavy to carry overland in addition to our oti" «tu«i, ^as also drawn up and abandoned. con ti.-'w leaving the lake we fell upon small streams which evi- Reach the dentli' rained toward the west, and about noon on the 29th of July ^"p" ^•"''" we had .' . satisfaction of reaching the bank of the Pelly Eiver. From this place our five Coast Indians were sent back with instruc- tions to tike back to Mr. Reed, at Dease Lake, the articles left in the cache or Frances Lake, and this duty, we subsequently learned, they faithfnily performed. Hf*viijg constructed a canoe from the canvas brought over for that p> oose, we began the descent of the river on the Iwt of August. Tiir, above is a summary of our proceedings from Frances Lake tOpjjj,^^^ th" L;\ f now feel convinced, that if we had had Indian guides, we '"""'*"*•• might in all probability have shortened the land carriage and possibly ft 116 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Mountains. General oharaeter of the country. Character < Finlaygon Biver. have found a travelled Indian trail, by following np the waters tributary to the west arm of Frances Lake. It remains to give some notes of the country actually traversed. Though the region between Frances Lake and the Pelly may be doscribod as a mountainous one, no very high summits were seen, the elevations being, as a rule, rounded and regular in outline, and form- ing broad, plateau-like areas above the timber-line in some places. The Too-tsho Mountains, which run along the east arm of Frances Lake nearly due north, appear to turn more to the westward beyond the head of the lake, but the line of travel followed toward the Pelly still diverged rapidly from this, the culminating range of the district, and the general direction of the principal ridgew in the vicinity of the Finlayson River is not far from east-and-west. It is probable that the general character of the country here met with fairly rep ^onts that of a wide belt to the west of the Frances River ttii th of the Liard, including the Campbell and Simpson Moiini;. i and their vicinity. The mountains are about equal in altitude to those last mentioned, averaging fiom 6000 to 6000 feet. The country is traversed by wide, wooded valleys, of which that occupied by the Finlayson is hero the principal. The climate evidently becomes less moist a« Frances Lake and the vicinity of the Too-tnlio Mountains are left, and dry, gravelly terrace-flats, with l^inus JMurrayana, are not uncommon on the upper part of the Finlayson. liarch was observed in places for about half the distance up the river toward Finlayson Lake, but was not seen further west. White spruce is still the most abundant tree, and grows as large as along Frances Lake. The black spruce also, however, occurs, and Abies subalpina becomes the common and charac- teristic tree near the upward limit of forest growth on the mountains, which here occurs at about 4200 feet. Grassy swamps are found in a number of places, and a good growth of grass is also met with, where areas have been denuded of foi-est by successive fires, so that should it ever become desirable to use horses on this portage, they might be main- tainefl without difficulty. Tlio lower part of the Finlayson for about fouf miles, near its mouth, foi'ms a scries of rapids and small cascades in a narrow, rocky gorge, making in this distance a total descent of 300 feet to the lake. Above this caiion it is rapid for several miles, with gravelly bars, and quite shallowYbut further up it becomes a narroM( and often deep stream, flowing between muddy or sandy banks*] At twenty-two miles from its mouth it divides into two nearly equal branches, the northern of which comes from McEvoy Lake, the south* ern fVom Finlayson Lake. Each of these streams, at their confluence, 0AW80N.] COUNTBT BETWKEN FRAN0K8 LAKE AND PELLT RIVER. 117 B is from twonty-five to thirty feet in average width and about two feet deep. The northern branch, however, soon becomes shallow, rapid and 8tony,^^hile that coming from Finlayson Lake is extremely ^^ crooked, winding in all directions in a flat valley about a mile in width, ^ ^ ' and is besides, as already mentioned, very badly blocked by fallen trees. ^ ; Prom the summit of an isolated, bare-topped hill, which occupies the yj^^ f^^n^ ^ angle between the two streams, and ri--es about 1200 above the val- ^o""''""- leys, an excellent view of the surrounding country was obtained. To the north-eastward, bi'oken masses of high, rugged mountains, patched with snow, limit the horizon. These are evidently connected with the Too-tsho Bange, but appear to form an irregular western spur, which is not continued to the west of north. The intervening district, as well as the whole country to the south, is occupied by bare-topped, rounded mountains and ridges of less elevation. Amid these hills the round or flat-bottomed valleys of the streams extend, showing here and there the paler green of a patch of meadow. The most remarkable feature is, however, a tract of low, level country, in which MoEvoy Lake and the head of Finlayson Lake lie. This runs nearly due east- and-west, and appears to continue in the former direction till it inter- sects the northern continuation of the valley of the west arm of Frances Laice, and is also observable to the west of the head of Fiulay- son Lake. It is intersected throughout by numerous small lakes or ponds and swampy meadows. v Finlavson Lake (Tle-tlan'-a-tsoots of the Indians) is nine miles andoiiardotoroi " riD'aysouLalte a-half in length and rather irregular in form. Its elevation above sea- levi'l is 3105 feet, as determined by our barometer readings, and it maj- be iogai*ded as occupying the summit of the watershed between the -Mackenzie and the Yukon, as no stream of any importance enters it. Tlie country about it is all rather low, but is diversified, to some extent, by wooded ridges and hills, which rise highest near its upper end.^^he water is apparently shallow throughout, and had, in consequence, a, ^ U . much higher tempeiaturo than that of Frances Lake.') It is well stocked with white-fish and lake trout, and also, no doubt, with the other species found in Frances Lake. A dead amia, eighteen inches long, was also found on the shore. • The immediate shores of the lake are generally quite low and often swampy, and the country is covered with small, poor timber, much of wliich has been killed by fire. A pretty well marked terrace, at 100 to 150 feet above the water, runs nearly all round the lake, and at the head are irregular, low, lumpy ridges and islamlH, which evidently repre- sent moraine accumulations. No rock-exposures were anywhere seen along the lake-shore. 1 118 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. The water- shed. linlayson Lake \% 's ' "1|! :iil ;, , li li! The distance from the head of the lake to the nearest point on the Pelly, in a straight line, is ..bout fifteenv miles, bift the low tract of country already referred to runs some miies to the south of such a line for the gi*eater part of the way. The actual waterehed in this low country is probably not fifty feet above the lake, but there is no evi- dence that the lake ever discharges toward the Pelly. Its height above sea-level is about 3150 feet. Small streams rising to the west of the lake, flow together to form a respectable brook about half way across. This occupies a wide, tenaced valley, the ridgos bordering which gradually diverge as the Pelly is approached, and the river itself is bordered by undulating terrace-flats several miles in width?) OouBtry west of On ridges west of the head of Finlayson Lake Abies aubalpina becomes moderately abundant, but the- white and black spruce are still the characteristic ti-ees, and the former is well grown in sheltered valleys. No larch or black pine were seen on this part of the portage. The western yellow ^oxid-\i\y (^Nuphar polyaepalum) was observed in great abundance in a small inlet of Finlayson Lake, and on the hills beyond Polymoneum pulchellum and Mertensia paniculata, with Potentilla fruti- cosa, were noted as specially abundant flowering plants. The vegeta- tion in the vicinity of the Pelly was much further advanced than any wo had yet seen, and the climate of the valley is evidently more favor- able than that of the watershed region. { The soil of the river-terraces is a fine, silty material, which, judging from the luxuriance of plant growth, must be very fertile. Tn consequence of the width of the valleys and the mantle of drift deposits, few rock-exposures were met with along the whole route from Frances Lake to the Pelly, and those examined consisted wholly of schists or schistose argillites, associated with cherty quartzites in some places, and generally of blackish or grey colors. The gravel wash in the various smaller streams and the rock debris met with on slopes of hills and elsewhere, consisted also predominantly of similar materials) and it would appear that the whole of this country is underlain by rocks resembling those describo^l on Finances Lake and part of the river of the same name. A reddish argillito was noted as locally abundant in some streams entering the Finlayson on the south. Pebbles and small boulders of grey granite are not uncommon, but ail appear to have been transported from a distance. In addition to the FhTiiu'son Lake rocks above described, the gravel beaches on Finlayson Lake show numerous fragments of grey-blue limestone, some of which contain obscure fossils. Green sei*pentine, like that of the vicinity of Dease Lake, and exhibiting minute veiulets of serpentine-asbestos, also a few pebbles of reddish serpentine, were also noted here, and fragments of a peculiar white quartz-porphyry are not uncommon. Large pieces of Qeologicnl notes. Rooks of DAWSON.] UPPER PELLT RIVER. 119 b the same &tono were aftei'wai'ds found on the hills to the west of the lake, but it was not anywhere seen in place. Quartz-vein-stuff is everywhere very abundant, and on the terrace overlooking theFinlay-Masai^equarti. 8on, on the north side, three miles below the lake, a large mass of quartz occurs in place. The extent of this mass of quartz could not be ascertained, as it protruded from the soil only in isolated spots over an area eeveral hundred feet in length and breadth. A few specimens .were collected, but on assay proved to contain neither gold nor silver. One of the most notable features of this watershed region is the Superficial ° dei>Of!itg of the great quantity of detrital material or drift with which the whole is watershed, covered. On the lower part of the Finlayson, irregularly bedded, clayey, gravel deposits, containing large glaciated stones and resem bling boulder clay, were seen ; but elsewhere stratified gravels aiul san*" arc generally shown in any scarped banks which occur. Well rounded gravel was found seattered over the very summit of the iso- lated mountain at the forks of the Finlayson, above referred to, at a height of 4300 feet above the sea, the material being of varied origin and including granite. No distinct terraces were found on this moun- tain, but terraces wore noted further down the valley on the slopes of higher hills, at a height equal to, or greater than, that of this place) The evidence appears to be conclusive that a body of water in later glacial times extended quite across the Pacific- Arctic watershed in this region, standing at a level more than 1000 feet above it. Glacial striation, in a bearing parallel to that of the valley, was noted on the surface of the quartz mass previously alluded to, but the direction of motion of the ice could not be determined. Upper Pelly Eiveb. ( Our first camp on the Polly was situated in lat. 61° 48' 52", long. Upper Peiiy l.')l° 01' 06", the height of the rivir being at this place, as approxi- mately determined from the mean of a number of barometer observa- tions, 21)65 fcot.^ The river is here 326 feet wide, with a current slightly exceeding two miles and a-half an hour, and a middle depth of seven feet. An approximate estimate of the discharge placed it at 4898 cubic feet per second. The river had evidently fallen very considerably since the early summer and was probably at or below its mean stage. The water is here nearly clear, with a light brownish tinge. From explorations made at the time of the existence of the Hudson Bay post, as well as from Indian report, the river is known to bo navigable b}' boats for a considerable distance above this point, and to rise in two lakes) the position of which is approximately indicated on the map, according to ^ 31 •Mi 120 b TUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA, Ml'. Oampbell's sketch. Our camp was about two miles above the mouth of the sti'eam which has already been mentioned as rising on the portage near Finlayson Lake, at the angle between which and the Pelly the old post named " Pelly Banks" was situated. We saw no trace of the buildings which formerly existed, though the old site might, no doubt, have been determined by a little search, had wo thought it worth while to devote the necessary time to it. Appearance of the.oonntry. Hoolo'JRiver. Bapid. " Pelly Banks " to Hoole Canon. From our initial point, above mentioned, to Hoole Cafion and Canon, is a distance of thirty-one miles in a straight line, the direction of which is a few degrees north of west. The river, however, forms a wide curve to the south of this line, and is besides very tortuous in detail, the actual distance, following its course, being fifty miles. The main orographic river-valley is here not confined, as is so often the case, between parallel ranges of mountains. There is on the contraiy a wide tract of irregularly hilly country, which is bounded to the south by a well-defined mountain range at a distance of ten to twelve miles. This range is crowned by a series of square-outlined pyramidal peaks, which are probably composed of stratified rocks. It is proposed to dis- tinguish it as the Pelly Range. Tr +he northwai-d, no definite bound- ary to the low hilly region can be seen. The actual trough in whiAi.ihe river mcjinders, however, is scarcely more than a mil« in average width, and is generally bordered by terraces a hundred feet or niore in height. -^ Thirty-three miles, by the course of the river, below our starting point, a Mibutary comes in from the mountains to the south- ward, about fifty feet wide by one deep, and very rapid. This is iden- tified as Hoole Eiver.* Its water is bluish in tint, and clearer than that of the Upper Pelly, which by this time has become slightly turbid from material derived from its soft, silty banks. The river, between our first camp and Hoole Eiver, has a rather moderate current, scarcely exceeding foui* miles and a-half an hour, though with several little "riffles " or small rapidsy Just below the mouth of Hoole Eiver is a rapid about 600 feet long, with a total fall estimated at about ten foot. There is an easy portage on the right or north bank, but a fair-sized boat might run through without danger at most stages of the water. As a precaution- ary measure, we lightened our canvas canoe, of the behavior of which * So named by Mr. Campbell after hia interpreter. Mr. Campbell, on his original sketch and on Arrowsmith's map. in the construction of which it was used, has named a number of the tributaries of the Pelly. It has been found diflScult to identify some of these, but all have been placed on the aooompanying map, after a careful comparison. OAWSON.J UPPER PELLT RIYER. 121 B in bad water we had had at the time no cxperienc.e. From this rapid to Hooio Cafion the water is swift, and there are several little rapids.) The banks and beaches of the Pelly above Iloole River, are gen- erally silty or muddy, though the .strength of the current is sufficient to produce well-washed gravel-bai-s in mid-stream. Below that point the banks and beaches are also as a rule gravelly, in conformity with the swifter flow of the stream. The banks along the south side of this part of the river, are for the Vegetation. most part densely wooded, and whore shady and damp the growth of timber is small and scrubby, with much black spruce. The banks on the opposite side are very different in appearance. Those above Hoole River show numerous open, grassy patches, and below that place grassy slopes pi-eponderate over the wood ad area, the grass having the characteristic growth and dry, tufted appearance of" bunch- grass." The trees are similar to those found along the rivers previously described, except that Pinus Murrayana and larch do not occur, and but a single white birch was noted, near the mouth of Hoole River. Groves of Cottonwood of medium size cover some of the flats. In one pro/en soil, or two banks into which the river was cutting, and where the surface ^ was covered with a dense, mossy growth, frozen soil was observed. The tlepth to which it extended could not be ascertained, as it went below ijie water-level of the stream. t Above the mouth of Hoole River the rock exposures are few and Jpc'*'' , , 1 1 *^ reprcseiiicu. inconsiderable. Near the mouth of Campbell Creek a yellowish- weathering irregularly s'licified dolomite was observed in several low outcrops, together with green-grey, slightly lustrous schists, and similar schists were seen in one or two other places on this part of the ri\er. The composition of the gravel of the river-bars may be accepted as indicating in a general way the character "f the formations of the drainage area of the upper river. These include fragments of schists, quartzites and argillites of the same kind as before described on the Frances, with grey, fine-grained limestone, some pieces of coarae white marble, and occasionbl small pebbles of the same peculiar quartz-porphyry seen on Finlayson Lake. There aie also represented several varieties of granitoid rock,;', the most abundant of which has a coai'se gneissic lamination, with whitish or greenish mica and large, white, porphyritic felspar crystals, round which the layers of the rock bend. This peculiar granite or gneiss is probably derived from the head-watere of the main river, and often occurs in large boulders, which can scarcely have been carried by the stream, and have probably been transported during the glacial period. i'.-.V ■., » ' 122 b TUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Basaltic area. At the rapid at the mouth of Hoole River low bluffs of dark-brown basalt appear, and the same rock crops out in several places further down the river, extending probably to Avithin two miles of Hoole Canon, though the lower exposures have rather a dioritic appearance, somewhat different from those first noted. The horizontal extent of this local development of basalt is appioximatoly indicated on the map, but as the country to the north is here all low, its limit in that (liicction is entirely hypothetical. This is probably the first occurrence of basalt on the river, as no basalt pebbles were seen above this place. The basalt is often amygdaloidal or vesicular, and contains chalcedony, cak'ite and some fibrous zeolite, but is scarcely at all columnar. Scarped bank?. Above the mouth of Hoole River, frequent scarped banks exhibit white or grey bedded silts, associated with or undeHain by stratified gravels, with a dark-grey, earthy matrix. These latter deposits often hold large boulders, and observations made further down the river appear to show that they represent the boulder-clay. Between Hoole River and the caiion, the silts are scarcely seen in -* the banks of the Pelly, being replaced by gravelly and coarse sandy deposits. Hoole Cm') on. II V il!! ipii K088 River. Hoole Canon to Ross River. At Hoole Caiion, the river makes a knee-like bend to the north- eastward, anil is constricted between rocky banks and cliffs about a hundred feet in hciglil. These render it impracticable to use the line, and as f lie water is very rough and dangerous) it was found necessary to cany not only all our stuff, but the canoe as well, to the lower end of the canon. The distance by the river is about three-quarters of a mile, by the portage half a mile, the highest point being one hundred feet above the river. The portage is on the south side of the river, and we found traces on it of skids which had been laid by the Hudson Bay Company many years ago, but no sign of its having been employed by the Indians, who in all this district genei*ally travel by land, making rafts when they are obliged to cross any of the larger rivers. Sixteen miles and a-half below the cafion in a straight line, or twenty-three miles by the course of the Pelly, is the mouth of a river which is identified as the Eoss River of Campbell.* This stream, which comes from the north-eastward, is to all appearance as neai'ly as possible equal in volume to the Pelly, having a width of 290 feet, with a current of four miles and a-half an hour. Its water is tur- bid and milky, and colder than that of the Pell}', leading to the belief that it is not derived from lakes like that stream, or that if lakes do * So named after Chief Factor Donald Rosa. -lii! DAWMN.] UPPER PKLLT RIVER. 123 b occur on its upper waters, they are much less in area than those <>f the character of Pelly. Its size would indiuate that it may rise in the same distant**""''' range with the Pelly, but no long view was obtained up its vallo}', _ which is nariow and boi-dered by hii;,li, stoop lulls at its mouth. Mid- way between the canon and the Ross, K<;fza liiver,* a swift stieam, about forty feet by one foot, joins from the south. Like other streams from that direction, it cari'ies cleai-, blue, mountain water, and brings down quartzites, argillites and schi.sts of the usual charaMer, together with a great abundance of quartz-gravel. The Pellv, between the eaiion and Ross River, is swift throughout. „ , " ' ' D • Hook*. with numerous little rapids. To the south of the river there is still a wide extent of low, wooded country between it and the continuous range before referred to as the Pelly Mountains. To the north the \ iew is more limited, particularly near the mouth of the Ross River, owing to the existence of a long, steep ridge, parallel to the course of the Pelly, and from 600 to 800 feet in height above it. The southevn lace of this ridge, which is cut through b}' the Ross River, is more than half, open grass land, and would attbrd ixcellent pasturage. The rocks of Hoole Cauon and its vicinity are chiefly white marble, associated and interbedded with grey and Mack eheity-looking quartz- ites, which are often thin-bedded and sometimes rather schistose, and precisely resemble the Cliche Creek quartzites of southern British Columbia. Further down the river are occasional exposures of green- ish and grey schists and schistose argillites. The rocks along this part of thtf'Pelly strike nearly parallel to its main direction, or about north-west by south-east, and are either nearly vertical or have dips to the south-westward. Stratified gravels "are seen in a few places in scarped banks, but silts are not here specially characteristic. Boss River to Glenlyon River. > From the mouth of Ross River to the Glenlyon River, the^ general course of the Pelly is almost direct, on a bearing of N, 50* W., the dis- tance being sixty-four hiiles. In consequeiice of the number of m'nor flexures in the stream, this is, however, increased by the river to ej/ii.ty- two miles. Ten miles below the Ross, following the river, a stream, Lapie Eiver,^ sixty feet wide by one foot deep, and resembling in its general ^"i"® i^'^^'* character and colour of water Hoole and Ketza rivers, comes in from the south. Twenty-three miles from the same point a smaller tri- butary joins from the north, which is supposed to be the Orchay of Orohay Riyer. * So named by Campbell, after one of his faithful Indian companions ; noi Xelzas, as shown on Arrowsmith'g map of 1854. tJhiB stream was not named by Campbell. I call it Lapie River, after one of his Indian;, he having given the name of the other (Ketza) to a neighboring tributary. 124 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. i^ FeAtures of tlio eountry. Pelly Kangc. Gap to the ■outhward. Notes on the river. ( 'ampbell. This is about twenty feet wide by six ibches deep, and carries clear, brownish water, doubtless derived from, a lake or lakes. Ten miles further, on the same side, in a valley running to the north, which ]ii-obably brings in a moderate sized stream. But this falls into a slough, behind islands, and was not seen. All the way from the Boss to the Glenlyon the Pelly is closely boi^ ilored on the north by ridges and hills of considerable height, which become mountains of 4000 to over 5000 feet before the last-mentioned stream is reached. Tiiose entirely preclude any outlook over the country on that side. To the south, the important and well-marked l*oliy Bange is continued to a point opposite the Orchay Eivor, where it appears to terminate in a group of mountains lower than those of its eastern part, but still from 5000 to 6C00 feet in height. These are situated at a distance of about six miles back from the rivor, the inter- vening country being occupied by lower, wooded hills and bioUen coun- try. The forms of the mountains are rather bold, consistiniij of steep crests and ridges, with intervening narrow, V-shaped gorges, and they appear to bo grassed or covered with low, herbaceous growth, giving them a genei-al greeniah tir.t. There are few bare, rocky summits, and the whole appearance is that of a range shaped by normal pro- cesses of denudation from schistose or other crumbling rocks of a stratified character and nearly uniform hardness. They still carried a few patches of old anow on the 4th of August. The higher portions of this range to the eastward, present a rougher and almost serried outline, but the:-e are not even there any exceptionally high points, anil the slopes of the peaks are extremely uniform. Beyond the west- ern termination of this range, for a distance of about twenty miles, no mountains were seen to the southwaixl from the river-valley. From the lacti that evidences of a raore humid climate were found along the ':'oriespi)nding length of tLe river, it is highlj^ probable that a some- wiiat important gap occure in this dii'ection, of sufficient width to admit the entrance of the moisture-bearing winds. The gieater humid- ity of this part of the valley is particularly marked by the densely wooded character of the slopes on the north side of the river. Beyond the gap above refeiTed to, a low mountain-range appears on the south side of the river, not in line with that last desci'ibed, but quite close to the river, which hoie, tor a number of miles, flows in a valley between two mountain axes. The Pelly, for rather more than half the distance between the Ross and Glenlyon, continues to be pretty swift, and is much divided among islands and gi'avel-bare ; the remaining part is comparatively tranquil, with the exception of the rapids in the immediate vicinity of the Glen- lyon. The forest growth throughout is much like that previously OAWtON.] UPPKR PKLLT RIVIR. 126 b described, save that the birch is now moderately abundant, nml tlx' nincki>inp. black pine (P. Murrayana) appears, coming in first on dry northein slopes thirteen mRes oastwai-d from the Gleulyon. Cottonwood, aspen, alder, spruce and willows are the prevailing trees on Iho river-tlat«", which are usually about ten feet above low- water level. Frozen soil was again seen in several places along the shady side of this part of '^ ""*•"• ^""* the river, extending from about eighteen inches below a mot a :^ a. a '3 s V t 2 V u V 2 3 i to 3 2 s. l-i o WT. ■ 'i i^mm ■N ■A^IBI H. DAWSON.] UPPER PELLT RIVEB. 12*7 8 the boulder-clay the scarped banks begin to assume a chai'aoteristically castellated appearance, standing often in series of nearly vertical buttresses and pillars, with deep intervening gullies. Glenlyon River to Macmillan River. For the purpose of description, the next convenient length of the Upper Pelly which maj' be taken, is that extending fiom the Glenlyon to the Macmillan Eiver.* This again natuially sub-divides itself into two parts, the first with a general bearing of N. 53° W., twenty-eight miles and a half, in continuation of the general course of the upper river, the second about N. 17° W. thirty-three miles. The total distance, following the course of the river, from the Glenlyon to the Macmillan, is niiicty-ono miles. The tributary streams in thisTnbuiary 11 1 V. 1 streams. distance, again measuring by the course of the Felly, down stream, are as follows: — Glenlyon Eiver. forty feet by one foot. Jlight miles and a-half below, stream on the north, sixty feet by six inches. Twelve miles, tributary from the south, twenty foet J)y three inches. Seven- teen miles, on the south, dr3' torrent hed. • Twenty miles and a-half, on the south, ten feet by three inches. Thirty miles on the noith, thirty feet by six inches; the Earn K'iver of Campbell, l-'orty-seven miles on the south, thirty feet by three inches; probably the Tum- mel Eiver of CampbelO Fiom this point to the Macmillan no tri- butary streams were observed, the country to the northward evidently draining toward the last-named stream, and that to the south, at no gi-eat distance, being in all probability within 'he -Irainage-basin of the Lewes. The above estimates of the sizes ol' the streams refer to the date at which we saw them, in August, when most appeared to be at or near their lowest stages. For about twenty miles below the Glcnlj'on Eiver, the Pelly is moic than usually free from abrupt bends, and few- islands are met with. It is bordered to the south by a raiii-e ot" mountains, which may be named the Glenlyon Mountains, the highest (Jieiii.vcm point:, of which somowhac exceed five thousand feet. Lower irret,ular hills border the north bank, and these, as usual, show extensive grassy slopes on the southern ox])osuros. At the distance just mentioned from the Glenlyon, the river turns abruptly to the northward, making an S-«haped bend, and cutting completely through the ridge which has previously bounded it on that side. After aTheDoiour. sinuous course of about fifteen miles (about midway in which it receives the Earn Eiver), to the north of the ridge, it turns again with equal abruptness to the southward, rounding the west point of the * Of Campbell, nam«d for Chief Fuotor Maomillan. 128 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. App Afaomillan River. Confluenco the rivers. . ridge, which here dies away. This.peculiar'flexure is distinguished on the map as The Detour. To the south of the ridge is a wide valley, which lies in the general direction of the river, and which, though now apparently floored b}- drift de])0?its, doubtless represents a pre-glacial valley of the Pelly. The distance from bend to bend of the river, through this disused valley, is eight miles and a-half, and the height of its floor above the water-level was estimated at about two hundred f«'ot. As far as the lower end of The Detour the cun-ent is rather >wift and there are a number of little riffles, some of which miglit 1)0 called rapids, though none are of a character to impede navigation. From The Detour to the Macmillaii. the Pelly has a current averaging not more than three miles an hour, though attaining four miles in a few places. The country begins to open out to a greater extent than found anywhere on the upper i-ivor, and is diversified only by compai-atively low and irregular hills. About fifteen miles eastward of the ^[acmillan is a wide low gap opetiing to the north, by which (he Indians evidently cross over to the valley of that river, as several large rafts were seen here on the north bank. IJctween this place and the mouth of the Macmillan, the river becomes again rather strictly confined between ranges of hills. Itut just below its confluence it tvjrns sharply to the north and is broken up into several channels among a number of low, wooded islands. The Macmillan and the Polly valleys coalesce at an acute angle at the western point of the ran^r of iiills which alone has separated them lor some distance, and the two streams must run nearly parallel for many miles above their junction. The Macmillan is bordered to the north by a well defined range of low mountains, which continues to the westward for about ten miles as the bordering range of the united sti'cams. At the confluence, the Pell}' appeared evidently to be some- what the larger river at the time of our visit, and it is probably so at all properly comparable stages of water. The inequality in size can not, however, be very great. The width of the Macmillan, just above its mouth, was found to Ite 45.') feet, the rate of the current, which is greater than that of the Pelly at the same place, was 2'7 miles per hour. The Macmillan water is much more turbid than that of the Pelly, and of a yellowish colour. The temperature of both rivers was identical on the ninth of August, being 54° V. It may probably be assumed from this circumstance that the origin of the river« is similar, and that the Macmillan, like the Pelly, rises in or flows through considerable lakes, in which the water is warmed to a like extent. The suspended matter of the Macmillan may lie entirely due to the washing away of silty banks, which is the usual cause of the turbidity of streams in this district. The uppei- part of the Mac- nguished on wide valley, though now a pre-glacial )f the river, I the height two hundred mt is rather (vhich mighi e navigation, mt averaging four miles in r extent than ied only by js eastward of by which the several largo place and the ther strictly iience it tiirns nels among a icute angle at parated them lei for many to the north tinues to the the united y to be some- ■obably so at ality in size vcmillan, just the current, ce, was 2'7 )id than that turo of both F. It may of the river« in or flows nod to a liko entirely duo I cause of the jf the Mac- rt; ;-;■; , 1 'ir*' ■ y I ' II! DAWSON.] UPPER PELLY RIVER. 129 b millan has never been explored, but its size would indicate that itMaomiiian may rise as far to the eastward as the Pelly, and probably, like it, in ^^^"' mountains representing the western ranges of the Bocky Mountains. We do not, however, know to what extent this river shares with the Stewart the drainage of the comparatively low country to the north- ward. I afterwai-ds met a couple of miners (Messi'S. Monroe & Liingtry) who had ascended the Macmillan for several days in a boat, but not finding encouraging " prospects " had returned. They reported the existence of a large area of low land with good soil, and had met with no impediments to navigation as far as they had gone. Ton miles above the mouth of the Macmillan we encountered a Meet Indians, couple of Indians, father and son, working their way up the Pelly with a small dug-o\tt canoe. They were the first human beings we had mot with in the country since leaving the mouth of the Dease Eiver, forty, three days previously, but as we were totally unable to communicate with each other except by signs, it was impossible to obtain apy definite information from them. They were evidently quite at a loss to know whence we had come, and evinced a peculiar interest in ex- amining our little canvas canoe. The Glenlyon Eange appears to bo throughout granitic. Its base Qeoiogioai does not touch upon the river, but the general aspect and uniform grey colour of its higher parts is that of the granitic mountains of this region. Its composition is also indicated by the character of the material brought down by the Glenlyon Eiver and other rapid streams which rise on its slopes or in its valleys. This is largely, and in some cases almost exclusively, composed of granite of very uniform lithological character, gvey in colour and generally hornblendic. The same rock is met with in place on the Pelly, about half way from The Detour to the mouth of the Macmillan, beyond the termination of the range itself, but precisely in the continuation of the line of its axis.* The rocks exposed along the Pelly itself, between the mouth of the Glenlyon and the granitic exposure just alluded to, and which may be regarded as a whole as occupying the northern flank of this granitic range, are raox'o varied in character than those met with on the upper part of the river. Nothing can be said as •> their order of superposition, for while the river nearly follows the main direction of the strike, the locally observed attitudes of the strata of the several isolated places where thoy were noted are very irregular. This is particularly the case in the vicinity of The Detour. The rocks comprise greenish and blackish schists and schistose quartzites, of varied aspect, generally somewhat more altered in appearance than usual Those are inter- bodded at the east end of The Detour with finely-banded white • See App«udix V. (Upp'? Pelly, No. 63). 9 130 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. *.; SeoODd range of granite. marble and quartzitc ; and at ten miles west of The Detour, are some- Avhat extensive exposures of blackish and bluish-grey, rather flaggy and little altered limestones, in which, however, no fossils could bo found. The riingo of hills which has been referred to as boi*dering the Pelly on the south, near the mouth of the Macmillan, is likewise composed of granite, which appears in several places on the river. This is of greyish and greenish-grey colours, and similar to that of the Glenlyon Eange, though it apparently forms a distinct though parallel granitic axis. The rocks which immediately border this granitic axis to the north, though not seen in actual contact with the granite, have a more highly altered aspect than almost any of those seen further up the river, but the impression gathered from their examination is that they owe this alteration to the influence of the gi'anite rather than that their character is an evidence of greater age. They comprise several varieties of rough, micaceous schists, which are highly quartzose, and evidently of clastic origin, as well as a much silicified, coarse grau- wacke, and a pale-grey, specklod, silvery mica-schist, whiqh breaks into thin laminiB. The last-mentioned jock is found on the north bank immediately below the Macmillan. Some distance further down, the river turns sharply to the south, and cuts across tho whole width Granite Canon, of the sccond granitic axis in Granite Canon, piesenting exposures of grey hornblendic granite for several miles, which, near the lower end of the canon, becomes much shattered by jointage-planos.* The drift deposits along the part of the river between tho Glenlyon and Macmillan, resemble those previously described, the only marked change being in the substuution, in some sections to a considerable extent, of sands for the silts before so characteristic. Stratified clayey gravels and boulder-clay occur, with relations similar to those noted on the upper river, but in some sections gravels and sandy silts ai-e interbedded, the beddinsr at times being flexuous, and even contorted in character. All these materials are below the oi*dinary valley-gravels and sands of post-glacial age. Six miles below the Glenlyon, the first distinct case of glacial stria- tion and ice-rounded rock-surfaces met wittt on the Pelly was noted, and below this place similar evidences were found in a number of localities. The direction of sti*iation in all cases closely accoixis with that of the main depression of the river-valley, though cutting across it obliquely whei-e it turns north towards the Macmillan. The form of the surfaces is such as to show that the sense of the movement of ice was westward or down stream. Drift deposits. Qlaoial ■triation. > See Appendix V. (Upper Pelly, No. 67.) OAWaOM.] UPPER PBLLT RIVEB. 131 B I*, are Bomo- ther flaggy ils could bo ig the Pelly (6 composed This is of ihe Glenlyon lUel granitic axis to the have a more L'ther up the 1 is that they er than that tprise several [uartzose, and coarse grau- which breaks on the north further down, o whole width QT exposures of the lower end the Glenlyon e only marked k considerable Ratified clayey ;o those noted landy silts are iven contorted valley-gravels Macmillan River to Lewes Biver. Prom the mouth of the Macmillan to the confluence of the Upper Pelly Tortuous part and Lewes rivers is a distance, in a straight line with a general bearing" * a few degrees south of west, of forty-six miles. A considerable pntion of this part of the river is, however, extremely tortuous, and in con- sequence no doubt of the generally low character of the country, its flexures are not merely short, sharp bends from side to side of a trough- like valley, like those usually met with further up, but lax irregular curves of greater dimensions. The distance from the Macmillan to the mouth of the Lewes measured along the couree of the stream is seventy-four miles. Four miles below the mouth of the Macmillan, on the north bank, is a small loijj-cabin, the first sign of habitation we had seen. Wo after- wards ascertaiiied that two miners had lived hero during the winter of 1886-87. At five miles and a-half below the Macmillan the Polly was • found to be 754 feet in width, with a current of 2*3 miles per hour; a few miles below this the rivor turns south-westward and then nearly duo south, entering Granite Cafiion at thirteen miles from,, , ^ -„„ "^ J o _ (jrnn to Canon. the Macmillan. The rocks met with in the canon have already been alluded to. The cafion is about four miles in length, with steep, rocky, scarped banks and cliffs, 200 to 250 feet in height.) In the canon are several little rapids, but the water is deep, and with the exception of some isolated rocks, the navigation would be quite safe for steamers, even at a low stage of water. As the river is much confined, however, it is probable that pretty rough water may be found here during floods?^ CJust beyond the canon, or sixteen miles and a-half below the Macmillan, a small stream, ab^ut ten feet by three inches, enters from the south-eastward. The bed is wide, and it appears at seasons of flood to become a formidable torrent. At thirty-six miles from the Macmillan another small stream was observ- ed on the south side, but with this exception, the river receives no lur- thi r tributaries before meeting the Lewes^ Judging from Campbell'^ sketch, this otherwise insignificant stream must be that flowing from Tall main Lake, which was probably a source of supply offish for ^ort,j,,^^,,jj^j^Lajj^_ Selkirk while that post was maintained. After passing the lidge which is cut through by Granite Cafion, the * uimtry on both sides of the river for about fifteen miles is quite low. ^0 mountains or high hills are in sight on any bearing to the west- ward, and wide ten-acos run far back from the river at heights of 150 to 200 feet above it. These are often lightly wooded, largely with aspen, and ai*e clothed with a good growth of grass presenting a very attractive appearance. The soil is good, and at the time of our 132 b TITKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Appearance of visit the country was very dry. Anemone patens was seen here the country, f^^, ^j^^ g^.^^ ^j^jj^ ^jj^^^ reaching the Yukon basin, and EUeagnus argentea was also noted, both species characteristic of a rather dry climate. For the remaining distft..co to the mouth of the Lewes, the river is more closely bordered by low hills and ridges, which sel- dom exceed a height of 400 feet. At one place the stream is nnfined l»»>tween high and somewhat rocky banks, but no rapid is met with. The southern slopes of the hills are generally open, and grassy, and would afford excellent pasturage. The northern exposures are still pretty thickly wooded. Just above its confluoin e with the Lewes, the Pelly makes an abrupt turn to the south, and runs for several miles along the eastern base of a scarped cliff of basalt.) ^rom Granite Gallon to the confluence, the current scarcely exceeds two miles and a-half an hour. Roek exposures ^^^' ^ numbei' of miles below Granite Cailon, no rocks are met with along the rivoi*, but lower down there are frequint exposures, extending for some miles, of highly crystalline schists, which strike nearly east- and-west, parallel to the main direction of the river, with general high northward dips. These rocks differ considerably from any before seen, including dark, wholly-crystalline schists, holding horn- blende or hornblende and mica.— With these are associated consider- able exposures of a peculiar dark-green chlorite rock, containing large mica crystals. This rock is interbedded with white, coarsely crystalline marble, in some places, and is quite evidently the alteration-product of some stratified material which has doubtless, however been of volcanic origin. (Nine miles above the confluence, by the couise of the river, a great mass of impure serpentine comes out on the bank, and six miles and a-half above the same place, grey granite of the usual chai-acter is again met with,* and appears to constitute the hills to the east of the river for the remaining few miles of its course. The basalt, which forms a plateau from 200 to 250 feet in height in tha angle to the west of the Pelly at its junction with the Lewes, con- sists of several superposed flows, not always distinctly separable at a distance. It forms a mural cliff, with a long talus of angular frag- ments sloping down to the river-level, and though not very distinctly columnar where it fronts on the Pelly, becomes so below the con- fluence. The rock is brown in colour and often vesicular. The bedded silts were seen above Granite Canon, but are scarcely represented below it. Boulder-clay was noted in one place below the cailon, and the old stratified gravels in several places. The scarped banks along this lower part of the river ai'e, howev . :, chiefly composed Serpentino, Basalt bliiiri>. Superficial deposits. See Appendix V. (Upper Pelly, No. 61.) OAWtON.] UPPER PELLY RIVER. 133 b of well rolled valley- or river-gravels, which become much more im- '' portant than before, and often constitute entire terraces up to forty feet in height. ) A remarkable layer of fine white volcanic ash, which overlies the Voioanio asb. glacial deposits all along the Upper Pelly valley, as well as in that of the Lewes, has already been described on page 43 b. m General Notes on the Upper Pelly River. The total length of the Upper Pelly, following the course of the river, Length and . , . , . . . /.^ 1 ...fall of the river from the point where we first reached it at the west end of Campbeils Portage to its confluence with the Lewes, is 320 miles. The elevation ut the tirst-mentioned point is about 2965 feet, that at the confluence 1555 feet, giving a total fall of 1410 feet or 44 feet to the mile, a considerable portion of which, however, occurs in the numerous little rapids and rifties of its course. In Iloole Caiion the estimated fall is about twenty feet. Two hundred and eighteen islands were counted in the river, without including such gravel bars as are submerged at high water, and are consequently without vegetation. The general course of the river is remarkably direct, and it embraces two main directions, the fii-st bearing N. 55° W., thj second, N. 87° W. These are parallel to the principal orographic features respectively of the upper and lower parts of the country traversed, and appear to indicate the main slopes of the general surface of the region. With the exception of Granite Canon, where warping might have NaviffabiUty, to bo resorted to at one place, the river would bo easily navigable for stern-wheel steamers as far up as the mouth of the Macmillan, and the latter stream is also navigable for a considerable though unknown dis- tance. Above the Macmillan, I believe, no serious difficulty would be met with in taking a small stern-wheel steamer of good power up to the mouth of Ross Eiver, and possibly as far as the' foot of Hoole Oaiion. A line might have to be carried ashore at a few of the stronger rapids, but the chief difficulty to be encountered would be from shoal water at low stages. , Where the river is widely spread and swift, a depth of three feet could scarcely be found across some of the gravelly bars. The Ross River is a navigible stream at its mouth, but its upper part is quite unknown. Hoole Canon is, of course, quite impassable for a steamer of any kind, and the rapid met with seventeen miles east of it, at the mouth of Hoole Eiver, might prove to be a difficult one to surmount by warping, its fall being estimated at about eight feet. Above this point, the river is again, however, an easily navigable one 134 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. n Trilmtaries from the south Timbrr. \^'' Qnnrt?. Gold. Coal. for small steamers to the fui'thest point seen by us, and possibly as far m the lakes.* All the streams and sMall rivers flowing into the Pelly from the anks to be vertical, would give a flood discharge of at least l(J7,-t00 cubic feet per second. It maybe, however, that the water-marks observed were caused by the damming back of the river by an ice-goiiif. The ruins of Fort Selkirk, formerly a post of the Hudson Bay Com-p^y pany, stand on a partly open flat, on tho south side, at a short distance '^°" Selkirk, back from the river, and about a mile and a-half below the confluence of the Pelly and Lewes. One chimney, built of basalt blocks which must have been brought across the river, and cemented with clay which has been baked almost into brick by tho combustion of the ruins of the fort, i^i".- luins of <^i , .'m'm m' ■Mm 136 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. still stands erect and uninjured. The lower part of a second is near it and the fragments of several others strew the ground, which is partly overgrown by small aspens. These, and the traces of a couple of ex- cavations which have probably been cellars, are all that now remain to mark the site of the buildings which were pillaged by Indians from the coast in 1852 BiSCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF THE LlARD AND PeLLY. Hudson Bay Company explorers. MoLeod. Oampbell. Fort Selkirk, of which the ruins alone now exist, was at one time the most important post of the Hudson Bay Company to the west of the Eocky Mountains in the far north, and with the exception of Fort Yukon, it was the farthest permanent post ever maintained by the Company to the north-west. On previous pages of this report, frequent mention has been made of the former establishments of the Company in the Liard and Yukon region, and as Fo-t Selkii-k is the last of these with which our route brought us in contact, a note as to the operations of the Hudson Bay Company may appropriately be given here. When we call to mind that our knowledge of the geo- graphy of the region described in preceding pages has been up to the present time almost wholly due to the explorations carried out by the officers- of the Company in connection with these establishments, it becomes evident that the history of these explorations and the facts respecting the several posts are well worthy of record. The circumstances attending the discovery of the Dease and Upper Sttkine have already been given on page 83 b. Mr. J. McLeod, whose explorations in that quarter are thei'o referred to, appears in the same year in which he reached the Stikine (1834), to have ascended the Liard as fiar as Simpson Lake, and to have brought back the informa- tion according to which ihe river was i-cprcsented on Arrowsmith's map of 1859. It was to the energy of Mr. Eobert Campbell, however, that the exploration of the Upper Liard and Yukon is almost entirely due. The only published account of Mr. Campbell's work, so far as I know, is that which appeared in the Eoyal Eeader/Fifth Book, Toronto, 1883, ]). 435, and which was reprinted, with slight alterations at Winnipeg in 1885, as a small pamphlet entitled " Discovery and Exploration of the Youcon (Pelly) River." From this source and from additional facts furnished by Mr. Campbell in answer to questions addressed to him, ais well as from allusions ia the unpublished journals of Chief Factoi' James Anderson, which have kindly been placed at my disposal by his son, the following brief account is drawn up. — After the abandonment of Dease Lake post in 1839, Mr. Campbell was, in the spring of 1840, commissioned by Sir George Simpson to o»w80N.] DISCOVEEY AND EXPLORATION OF LIARD AND PELLY. 137 b explore the " north branch " of the Liard to its source, and to cross the heigh t-of-land in search of any river flowing to the westward, especially the head ;5vators 6f the Colville, the mout)> of which on the Arctic Ocean had recently been discovered by Messrs. Dease and Simpson. Mr. Campbell writes: — "In pureuance of these instructions, I left ^xpedjtion to Fort Halkett [on the Lower Liard] in May, with a canoe and seven men, among them my trusty Indians, Lapie and Kitza, and the inter- preter, Hoole. After ascending the stream some hundreds of miles, liir into the mountains, we entered a beautiful lake, which I named Frances Lake, in honor of Lady Simpson. * * * Leaving the canoe and part of the crew near the south-west [sic] extremity of this [the west] branch of the lake, I set out with three Indians and the inter- preter. Shouldering our blankets and guns, we ascended the valley of 11 river, which we traced to its source in a lake ten miles long, which, with the river, I named Finlayson's Lake and Eiv^r." From this point, Mr. Campbell struck across to the Pelly, which he then named in honor of Sir H. Pelly, a Governor of the Company. " Aftei' reaching the actual bank of the river, wo constructed a raft, on which we embarked and drifted down a few miles on the bosom of the stream, and at parting we cast in a sealed tin can, with memoranda of our discovery, the date, etc." During Campbell's absence the remainder of the party built a house Establishment iit the point between the two arms of the lake, which was thon named" '^^^ "*"°*' " Glenlyon House," but was afterwards known as Frances Lake House or Fort Francos. Returning down the river, they met a trading outfit which had been despatched for them, at Fort Halkett, and turned back with it to Frances Lake, after sending out a report of their proceed- ings. The Company now resolved to follow up those western discoveries. Exploration of and in 1842 birch bark, for the construction of a large eanoe to be^ ** *'''" used in exploring the Pelly, was sent up from Fort Liard. In the ,sume year Fort Pelly Banks was constructed, or its construction begun, and early in June, 1843, Campbell left that place in the canoe which had been made, accompanied by Hoole, two French-Canadians and throe Indians. They saw only one family oi' Indians ("Knife Indians") till they reached the mouth of the river which Campbell called the Lewes. llo'c was a large camp of " Wood Indians," and those, after recovering from their surprise at the sight of the party, so discouraged Campbell's men by their stories of the number and ferocity of the people on the liiwer river, that he was obliged to turn back. For some years afterwards the operations of the Company did not •• poUy Banki." oKtend beyond " P<)lly Banks," though during the summer, hunting 138 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Exploration of Porcupine River. parties were sent down the Pelly to collect provisions, and in that way information was received respecting the river and the Indianf^ inhabit- ing its vicinity. Establishment In the winter of 1847-48 boats were built at Pelly Banks, and eai-ly * in June following Campbell set out to establish a fort at the confluence of the Pelly and Lewes rivers. This was named Fort Selkirk, and was at first situated on the extreme point of land between the two rivers, but this point being found subject to floods during the disrup- tion of the ice, the post was in the spring of 1852 moved to a site a short way below the mouth of the Lewes, on the left bank. The inner work of the new buildings was still unfinished ac the time of the Indian raid, noticed further on. Meanwhile an entry was being made into the Yukon basin from another direction. Mr. J. Bell had already in 1842 reached the Porcu- pine or Rat River, and had descended it for three days' journey. He was in 1846 in charge of the Hudson Bay post on Peel River, near the mouth of the Mackenzie, and was instructed again to cross the mountains and to further explore the Porcupine River. In pursuance of these instiuctious, he in that j-ear reached the mouth of the Porcu- pine and saw the great river into which it flows, which the Indians informed him was named the Yukon. In 1817 Fort Yukon was estab- lished at the mouth of the Porcupine by Mr. A. H. Murray. It still remained, however, for Campbell, in 1850, to pi'ove that the Pelly and Yukon were identical. This he did by descending the river from Fort Selkirk, to Fort Yukon, after which he ascended the Porcu- pine, crossed the mountain-portage, and returned to Fort Simpson by the Mackenzie.* One result of this journey was to show that the route from Fort Selkirk by way of the Porcupine River to the Mackenzie was preferable to that originally discovered. The navigation of the Liard was both arduous and dangerous and several lives had been lost in boating on that stream. Added to this was the length of the land trans- port from Frances Lake to the Upper Pelly and the fact that great difficulty had been found in maintaining the posts in that district* * Mr. Ciimpbcil states that when again on his way down the river from Fort Selkirk to Fort Yukon, in 1851, he found that a great number of the Indians had been carried off during the previous winter by some virulent disease. He haa further informed me, in answer to my enquiries on the subject, that the Stewart River was so named after his "dear and gallant friend and assistant-olerk, James G. Stewart, son of the late Hon. John Stewart, of Quebec." Stewart was sent out in the winter of 1840 to follow the Indian hunters in quest of meat, lie found them some distance north of this river, which ho crossed on the ice. White River, Mr. Campbell named on account of its milky color. Of the other streams entering between Forts Selkirk and Yukon he says, " Antoine River" was named after the inter- preter at one time at Fort Yukon, a son of his interpreter Hoole ; "Foroier River," after his guide, Baptiste Foroier ; "Lolique River," for Foroier's wife: and " Ayonie's River," below tho White River, was named after the natives of that quarter. Identity of Pelly and Yukon shown DAWSON.] DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OP LIARD AND PELLY. 139 B 111 1849, the post at Pelly Banks, with the exception of the men's Abandonment house, was accidently burnt. In 1850 it was finally abandoned, and in the spring of 1851 Fort Frances was likewise abandoned.* The abandonment of these posts was not due to any hostility of the natives, who were on the contrary most friendly, but in consequence of the circumstances above noted, and the fact that while these establishments were very expensive to maintain, they merely bought furs which would otherwise have been carried by the Indians themselves to other posts, if these particular, and to them moie convenient ones, had not been in existence. T'v: everal ruined chimneys of Fort Selkirk still to bo seen, with irruption of other traces on the ground, ave in themselves evidence of the impoitant dimensions and careful construction of this post. The establishment consisted, I believe, in 1852, of one senior and one junior clerk and eight men. The existence of this post in the centre of the inland or "Wood Indian " country had, however, very seriously interfered with a lucrative and usurious trade which the Chilkoot and Chilkat Indians of Lynn Canal, on the coast, had long been accustomed to carry on with those people ; acting as intermediaries between them and the white tradej's on the Pacific and holding the passes at the head-waters of the Lewes with all the spirit of robber barons of old. In 1852, rumours were current that these people meditate I a raid upon the post, in consequence of which the friendly local Indians staid by it nearl}^ all summer, of their own accord. It so happened, however, that they absented themselves foi' a couple of daj's and at that unlucky moment the Coast Indians arrived. The post was unguarded by a stockade and yielding to sheer force of numbers the occupants were expelled and the place was pillaged, on the 2l8t August. Two days afterward Campbell, having found the local Indians, returned ,vith them and surrounded the post, but the robbers had flown. Being now without means of support for the winter, Camjibell set otf down stream to meet Mr. Stewart and the men who were on the way back from Fort Yukon. He met them at the mouth of White River and after turning them back with in- Campbell's structions to arrange for wintering at Kort Yukon, set out himself in ^""''"'"' °"®^'" u small canoo up the Pelly River, crossed to Francos Lake, descended the Liard and an-ived at Fort Simpson with the tidings of the disaster, amid drifting ice, en the 2l8t of October. Being anxious to obtain Sir George Simpson's permission to re- establish Fort Selkirk, Cam])bell wailed only till the river froze, when he left Fort Simpson on snow-shoes and travelled ovei'lanil to Crow Wing in Minnesota, where ho arrived on the 13th of March. On the * Forts Frances and Pelly Danks are erronoouaiy stated in Dall's Alaska and its Resources, to have been burnt aud pillaged, p. 115, foot-note and p. 508. 140 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. News from Fort Selkirk The United States and Fort Yukon. I . '■ IHth of April he reached London but was unable to obtain from the directors of the company the permission he desired. A short account of this remarkable journey appeared in the Perthshire Advertiser and Inverness Courier, but I do not know the precise date of the publi- cation. In the autumn of 1853, one of Campbell's huntei'S an'ived at Fort Ilalkett on the Lower Liard by way of the Pelly and Frances. This is the last traverse of Campbe»i's Portage of which I can find any record, though it may doubtless have been used by the Indians subsequently. Fi'om*this man it was learnt that the buildings at Fort Selkirk had been all but demolished by the local Indians for the purpose of getting the iron-work and the nails. He also stated that the Chilkats, being unable to carry away all their plunder in the preceding year, had taken merely the guns, powder and tobacco. They had cached the heavier goods, which were afterwards found and appropi iated by the local or wood Indians. At a later date the ruins of the post must have been burnt, as their present appearance indicates.* Fort Yukon, at the mouth of the Porcupine, was continuously main- tained till 1869, wbjn 'he Hudson Bay Company was expelled by the United States Government as represented b/ Capt. Charles W. Eay- mond, Corps of Engineers, U. S. Army ; he ha\ ng ascertained by astro- nomical observations that the post was situated to the west of the 141st meridian. He describes his proceedings as follows. — "On the 9th of August, at 12 m., I notified the representative of the Hudson Bay Company that the station is in the territory of the United States; that the introduction of trading goods, or any trade by foreigners with the natives, is illegal, and must cease ; and that the Hudson Bay Com- pany must vacate the buildings as soon as practicable. I then took possession of the buildings and raised the flag of the United States ovci- the foi't." t The fort was afterwards abandoned and allowed to go to I'uin. HudsoTB^aV^'^ The utmost credit must be accorded to the pioneers of the Hudson Company. J3^y Company for the enterprise displayed by them in carrying their trade into the Yukon basin in the face of difficulties so great and at such an immense distance from theii-base of supplies. To explorations of this kind performed in the service of commerce, unostentatiously and as matters of simple duty by such men as Mackenzie, Fraser, Thompson and Campbell, we owe the discovery of our great north-wesid Uiver. which enters the Lewes on the west side. Tt was estimated as eighty feel wide by six inches deep, a couple of hundred yards above its mouth, on the 23rd of August, when it was evidently near its lowest stage. Its valley is not a wide or important one, it being in fact difticult to decide iVom which direction the stream comes a few miles back from tb« Lev» es. The Little Salmon (or Daly, as re-christened by Sciiwiitka) joins the Lewes on the opposite side, and was estimated to cany about twice as much water as the Nordensl lold. It is about njio humlrod feet wide with an average depth of three feet. The water is clear and brownish in tint, and the current not rapid at the mouth. The valley of the Lowes, between Eink Eapid and the Little Salmon Lowr.-.- valley. Elver, is in genei-al somewhat irregular and not very wide, but a fuw miles before reaching the Little Salmon, the river turns into a wide valley which runs north-east and south-west and appears to be continu- ous with that of the Little Salmon in the fii'st mentioned direction. The hills, in the vicinity of the river, seldom exceed 800 feet in height, till near the Little Salmon, when they attain 1000 or possibly 1500 feet. *• 1 1. V , 148 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Ciold bars. Thick Orel 11- ceous scric". Bedsof C'iil. No mountains aie in slight from this part of the river. Terraces rising^ to 200 feet are frequent and often run back at about that level to the bases of the hills. Near the mouth of the NordenskioM. the river is extremely croi»kod, and the current is everywhere swift. The southern slopes of the hills and terraces are generally in largo ]»ai t open and grassy, no ditlerence such as might indicate a climate more Imniid than that of the region about old Fort Selkirk being met with. Several may;pie8 were seen, for the first time, on this part of the rivor. The first spot observed by us in ascending the river where \iit a foot sometimes occurs, but the greater part of the material is so sandy and impure as to be useless. The highest of these beds is untlerlain by a layer of dull purplish-grey, finely granular and porphyritic trachyte from six to eight feet in thickness, and evidently representing a con- temporaneous flow of volcanic matter. Its upper surface is somewhat broken up and mixed with carbonaceous matter, and passes into black, carbonaceous sandstone, about a foot thick, above which is the upper impure coal before referred to, overlain by shales and sandstones of the ordinary character. Wide synclinal The condition of all the beds in this vicinity is remarkably un- altered, as compared with those seen lower down the river, and would appear to show that if (as assumed) they form a connected series, these represent its upper part. The dip of these beds, taken in connection with that of those near Tantalus Butte and the horizontal appearance of the strata in the hills to the south-westward, indicates the existence / OAWtON.] LSWES RIVBR. 149 B of a synclinal five or six miles in width, running in a south-west by north-east direction. The relatively high position of those beds is further shown by the occurrence, about *^o miles further up the river, of fossil plants referable to the Laramie. These were found in a hard, white, shaly rock, which has apparently been permeated by waters charged with silica about the time of its formation. Sir J. Wm. Dawson Fossil plants. states that the following species are represented : — » Taxodium Tinajorum, Heor. Glyptostrobus Europxus, Heei*. ^Se^ruoja ian^sior/;^, Heer (doubtful). The thin coal-seams here actually seen cannot be considered as of ^^mp^jj^.^^ economic value, but are important as indicating the existence of a coal- °*^ ""*'• bearing horizon which may prove to contain thicker beds elsewhere and might become an important point in connection with the naviga- tion of the river. The coal has been examined by Mr. G. C. Hoffmann who describes it as a lignite-coal, with the following composition. — Hj'proscopic water 6'03 Volatile combustible matter 36-92 Fixed Carbon 49*03 Ash 802 100-00 Aiiout a mile below Eagle's Nest Eock, are exposures of coaree con- Conglomerate. glnmorate, with inter-bedded sandstones precisely like those of Rink lJu))ily in use, but the miners who (with the exception of the ins) alone travel through the counti-y, refuse to know it by any but name. It is much more iniportant than any of the tributaries the Lewes further down, being 347 foot wide, with a depth of for about oiuvthird of its width, and a current of about two l.hour. The water is clear and of a bluer tint than that of tlu* Imon, and the discharge was estimated at 2126 cubic feet per '^hen probal)!}' rathor below its mean stage. It might, no |4li iiavigated by a small stern-wheel steamer for many miles. rward so fortunate as to meet a party of four miners who hal p,Ii-t'.r river?" f the sunnner of 1887 in pros))'> ting this stream, ami from r. John McCormack, obtained some particulars ri'spect- ' with a sketch of its course. Thirty-two miles trom the |i^almon ■■< said to be joined by a smaller stream, which the Norih Foi'k For about a mile and a-half below. CO above the mouth of this branch, the river is very alf a mile above it there is an Indian salmon-tisliing istanco beyond this the river is shi^;;isli, and at the Lewes, the South Fork branches oil'. This e valley and comes from thesoulheastward. Above l", anil the valley of the rivor is narrow, with high s, but particularly on the north. Giaiiile and klon>f this part of tho rivor. At a supposed dis- 1 live miles from the Lowes, another stream and this also occupies an important valley, t of tho South Fork. Above this point tho !y bearing for about lilteon miles, tho current L M> and ;'oe place: sixly- I'o'.'k 06 it the wi iiiountai niica-se' tance of joins from though not liver turns to'A^ heing, in geno^fl^Black.^ it thou rovorts to an easterly bearing, and • Tatlin-hl-nl of tho ToBish. 152 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. of river, l^i Imkeaathend after passing a rapid, at one place, Island Lake is reached at 190 miles from the Lewes, This lake is four miles long, and has two arms at its upper end, from the southern of which n river leads, in eight miles, to a second lake two miles and a-half long. A stretch of liver, a mile and :i-half long. Joins this to the highest lake, which McCormack named Quiet Lake, and of which he estimates the length at twenty-four miles. At the outlet of the lake is an Indian fishing place. The counti y to th south of these lakes is mountainous, granite being a conimoD roclc, an sov^eral streams run from Iheso mountains into (^uiet Lake. Tl e norlii- east side of ilic lake is lioi-dcred hy lower rik boon possible to estimate thom. shed at 190 miles IS two arms at its ti eight miles, to a liver, a mile and lack Miimecl Quiet y-ihnv miles. At e countiy to th^l "^nmon rock, an* ake. Tl e norlii- 1 iVom its head, / countiy, to the g from north to but no good pay- did not discover I met w? th oi^,(;|ine Mr.M«' '"■■'""■■'■ ; traced 'er to I re,s4ii ie it )o. IU(.I saro the )int, cuou> below Mm. A l«rn and |n i% south III' ' 1 1)6 vicinity I, when thev minor sinuosities Ipas ffollaa il li ia 0AW80N.] LEWES RIVER. 153 B A number of auriferous gravel-bars have been worked along this part Caasiar bar. of the Lewes, including Cassiar Bar, which has so far proved the richest on the river. Limited areas of the river-flats have also been worked oyer, where the alluvial cover is not too deep. 'The valley near the mouth of the Tes-lin-too is again narrower Lewes an. i than usual, singularly so for the point of confluence of two im-comin-xa, pprtant rivers. The valley of the Tes-lin-too is evidently the main orographic depression which continues that occupied by the Lewes be- low the Confl.^encel) ( The Lewes flows in through a narrow gap, closeh' bordered by high i^ills and nearly at right angles to the lowor coursi'of the river^ On the mi^ accompanying Lieut. Schwatka's icport, the width of the Tea-lin-too ii^hown as about half that of the Lewc'^, the actual fiftct being prjBCJsely the reverse and all the main features of the lower river being contftined bj' the Tes-lin-too ; while the other branch, both in its irregul« njode of entry, the nature of its banks, the colour of its water and its very rapid current, presents, at first sight, all the appearance of a tributary stream of now character. To such an extent is this difl'erence observable, that Mr. Ogilvie and the members of his party, as well as most of the miners on the river, wore of the opinion 'at the Tes-lin-too actually carries much the greater volume of water. As this appeared to be a question of some importance, we stopped a day at the confluence for the p ii-pose of investigating it, cross-sectioning each river and ascertaining the rate of the cui-ront at distances of about half ;i mile from luo junction^ where the circumstances were favouiable. It was thus asi Gitained tliat the I'i vers possess th<,' foUnwing diinon. Voiumot' of riven*, siojifi: — Lb\vi>. Tks-lin-too. Mean width 4L'0 loot. 575 feet. Maximum depth (near loft bank) IL' " (near right l)auk) 18 feet 4 inches. Sectional area 3015 " 3809 feet. Miiximum velocity, o'iSiiiies pr.hr. 2'88 niilu.s jir. hr. Disi'liarge per second 18,604 "ubic feet. 1 1,436 cubic feet. In connection with these measurements it may be stated that the wnter of the LiiWes showed evidence of having risen about a foot above its lowest''"'"^®"* summer level, while the Tes-lin-too was pr()l»ably near its lowest summer stage.^ If we subta-act the volume of water represented by 1 his extra foot in dejith, the discharge of the Lewes at the sumi .ti low-water stage may be approximately stated at 15,(500 cubic feel. The water of tlie Lowes has aWue, slightly opalescent coloui", imicli resembling that nt' the Ehono where it issues from the Lake of rjeneva, while that of (he Tes-lin-too is br(jwnish and somewhat turbid. The teraperatur-es of the Jj'jvves and Tes-lin-too were respectively 54 and 53 6° F. on the evening * All the rivers in this country roach (hoir uetual lainimuiu toward tlie end of tiie winter. iiii ■iiiiii>*»iiiaiiiiiiw^if'iM>i'riiii m 154 b VUKON DISTRICT AND BBITISII COLUMBIA. >*1 1 Rook?. i iii Drift 'ill I..-IIH. Notes on tho rivtr. of August 3) >t. A considerable part of the water of the former stream must bo derived iVom tho ghiciers ami snows of the Coast Eunges, but the oxistcneo of laigo lakes on both streams doubtless accountH for their proximate efjiiiility in tempen ture. Ki-oin the few ox[)Osuro8 which occur on that part of the Lewes which cuts ricroas the Sominow Hills, tho range would appear to bo composed or^i'ounish, altered volcanic rocks, probably diabase, interbedded with U'roy or whitish marbU-. Hocks of this character are those which have supplied the material for tiio conglomerates described before (p. 146 b) and are evidently much older than these and dottbtless referable to the Pahcozoic. At another place, soul h of the Sominow Hills, fel- sito, schistose diabase and dark fractured argillite were noted in association, and at about a mile anda-half below the Tes-lin-too, purplish and greenish amygdaloid, with calcareous tilling, was seen. The ex. posures on this j)art of tho river ai-c few and unconnected and that last mentioned shows less sign of alteration than usual, and may he ref'er- iiMe to a period newer than the Talieozoic. Clayey and earthy gravels, like those often associated with the boulder-clay, wore noted in some places along this part of the Lcwes_ These areoverlain by neai-ly white, bedded silts, which often form entire hanks of considerable height. A mile and a-half below the mouth of the Tes-lin-too, the first glaeiated lock-sui-faces seen in ascending tho Ijewes, were noted. The diniition of glaciation is N. 4°, E. The gla- ciation is here well preserved on svu'faces a few feet above the river, and consists of wide, shallow, straight grooves and fiutings, quite evi- dently tho woi'k of a glacier. Tes-hn-foo or Xen-berry River. The Tes-lin-too Eiver is named the Newberry or Toss-el-heena* on Sc'hwatka's map, and is evidently the same which is sketched on the U, S. Coast Survey map of Alaska, etc., (1884) as the Nas-a- thane. By the miners who pass tilong the Lewes, it is known as the Hootalirdvwa or Ilotalinqu, in consequence, as it proves, of a misappi'ehension. The lEolilinqu, which has appeared on the ma]»s for many years, was traversed in its upper part by Byi-nes in the course of his exploration already mentioned. I have ascertained that one or more of the miners who til st ilescended the Lewes knew Byrnes and wore Ituuiliar with his work, and, naturally enough, on finding tiiis • Tlii)* is doubtless a version of Tfl."<-lin-lii-iil, //i/i ((ir in i-ombination h'l-n'i) hoinK Tiigisli lii" rivor. Tes-lin-too is t lie numu Kivon to mo by tho TiikisIj Indiani), tl\o turininiition boinBilni '['inn6 C(|iiiviilunt for hin, TliiH is, liowovor, not tlio oni.' ciwo of such use of Tinn^'- words by die Tagish. NftB-a-tinnio ia doubtlu.ss Ni-sntiin or Ni-xutlui-hi-iil, tho namo of tlio river ubove tlio grout biko Kriiusu nainei< this river, on an Inilian skclcli attached to his maji, TiH-)in-iiin. DAWSON. J LEWES RIVER. 155 11 brmor stream t Ranges, but accounts for I Lewes wbich ) hocompoHed H'boddotl with 30 which have bre (p. 146 b) less referable 5W Hills, fel- rere noted in i-too, purplisl: eon. Tlio ex. I and (hat last nay bo ref'er- ited with tilt; )f tho Lewo8_ en form entire tho mouth ot' isconding the E. Tho glii- )vc tho river, igs, quite cvi- ol-beena* on slcotched on s the Nas-u- is known as proves, of ii pn tho maps lin tho course that one or iJyrnes and tiniiing thiM |)«inK Tngii*!i I i' Iniitiun IjuiiiK il><' \m6 words l»y >^"' 1 river above iln' friH-lin-liiii. river, they Jumped to the conclusion tliat it was the Hotalin(]u of which ho had told them-. This river still remains to bo explored a nd mapped, and as it drains Kivomotyet a country with a rather dry climate, the area of its basin is probably ™"pp"''- very considerable. It has been prospected to some extent by a low miners, but it is difficult, from the aecounts which thoy are able to givo, to ascertain much of .'. definite character respecting it. At the month of the river we met Mr. T. Boswell and two other miners who had spent most of the summer on it, anil from Boswell's description, togeihor with sketches subse(iuently obtained from Indians, the fol- lowing notes are drawn up. Tho general tread of the To? too appears to bo south-eastward, ivs lin L;ikc. and Boswell o-ritimates its length, to the great lake, at one hundred miles, riiere are no rapids or falls in this distance, luit the water tor sixty ov seventy miles from iho mouth is moderately swiff, tho remaining dis- tance to the lake being quite shudv. Tlie lake is rcjiresoMted as boin^' at least one hundred miles in leiigtli, Imi accouiils dillVr as to the exist- ence of a largo tributaiy river at its heatl, some allirming that there is merely a small unimportant stream. Be that as it may, the main continuation of tho Tesdin-too is found at the head of an arm ten or twelve miles long, on tho east side of the lake. This river, known to the Tagish Indians as Ni-sutlin-h!-nl, must, come from a north-easterly direction in tho first instance, and it is represented as circling completely round the head of the Big Salmi>n Ilivor and rising between that idvor and tho Upper Polly. At a distance variously estimated at from eight}- to one hundred and twenty miles from its mouth (and said by the Iniiiaiis to be two days travel down sti'oam), the river forks, the west fork being the largei- and that of which the course has just been dos(;iibed. The east fork is swift and full of rapids and rises in a mountainous country, which no (loubt represents a portion of the northern continuation of thoCassiar lian.nc. l^ho Indiana travel several days up this fork and then cross mountains to tributaries of tho Upper Liard and descend by these to the little trading ])Ost at the conlluence of the Liard and Doase. Between the mouth of tho main river and the forks above mentioned, tho navigation is fairly gooil and no heavy rapids o(;eui-. The great lake above mentioned, into whit li the Ni-sutlin-hl-nl ie„tiiiesiiear disthai'ges, is said by the Indians to be the largest known to them. "'" '"'*^"' It is nametl Tes lin l>y tho Tauish Indians, and is bordcrotl to I lie wcst.wartl, at a distance of sevt^-al miles, by a high range of mountains, while a similar range, but of inferior height, runs along its east side and, further north, separates the Tesdin-tot) from the Big Salmon. Near theheatl of the lake is an Indian trail by which, it is said, the head lit! upporriver '.I' pnl t y U^'i I I ft * "T71 Pass to Taku. Gold. N menolatuit' r.. he lake. 158 9 YDKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. of canoe navigation on the Taku Eiver may be reached in two long days packing. Enquiry seems to show that the distance from point to point by this trail is about six.3'^ miles, and that it crosses a range of mountains, but not at such a height as to pass entirely out of the timber. It is stated that a miner named Mike Powers, with eight or nine other mon, cros.sod from the Taku to the lake in 1876 or 1877. These men built three boats on the lake, but do not appear to have done much prospecting and came out by the same route by which they had entered. There are two Indian salmon-fishing stations on the Ni-sutlin-hi-ni above Tes-lin Lake. Mr. Boswell and his partners found tine gold all along the Tes-lin-too nnd also on the Ni-sutlin-hi-ni. They worked in different places along the river and ai)pear to have done faii-ly well. G Tes-lin-too to Lake Labarge. iFrom the mouth of the Tes-lin-too or Newberry to the lower end of Lake LHbar»je the distance by the Lewes is twenty-seven mile's and a-half The river is very crooked and for the first six oi- 6e\ < 11 miles very rapid, averaging probably six miles an hour. liUrgc boulders occur in its bed in some places, but it is believed that ii .sti'in-wheel tuL :m irregular depression amouii; lunijiy inconsequent hills, none of which jirohably rise over 1000 feet above It No rocks were found exposeil on the river, hut some of the hills uro evidently composed in largo ])iit of pale, grey limestone. Seai'iied banks, about a hundred 'ieet high, show boulder- clay overlain by white silts, which on the lower part of this reach of the river form aboii (, one-third of the height cf the bank. The lakes above evidently provenl the occurrence of hea^y floods im1,>(1 nearly to the suraniits. ~ . h of the liichfofen valley the Miiur 6 Uan-je '■ appii :: -lies the btk^.- at an oblique angle, but decreasing in altitude. The mountains Ibrmini;- this range are more varied in form than those just described. * 1 name this for (tie miners mot by us along the river, good Teltons ail of tliem. mxa 158 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Survey of the shores. Climate. Two series of rocks. Mr. Ogilvie's raeasui-ed line was carried down from point to point along the west shore of the lake, a few points only having been fixed on the east shore by triangulation. In order to complete the outline of the lake I decided to make a track-survey of the east shore, connecting this by bearings with known points on Ogilvie's survey. We had not time to circumnavigate the lake and nothing was known to point out one side as better than the other for the purpose of geological examina- tion. The lake is reputed to be a very stormy one, the prevailing winds being from the south in summer, and often so strong that minei'S have been detained in camp for many days. We lo.st almost the whole of one day, owing to wind, on our way up the lake. Though local evidence of a more humid climate was noted on the Lewes near the Seminow Hills, these are soon lost after passing that range, and along Lake Labarge, southern slopes of terraces and hills are often grassy and open. Anemone patens was noted as abundant in many places. ) The rocks bordering the east side of Lake Labarge evidently repre- sent two distinct series, of which the older is for the most part com- ])0sed of grey limestone; which, in some places, nearly approaches marble but in others becomes rather flaggy and argillaceous. Resting unconformably on this, is a series composed of conglomerates,which pass .• into hard grey and greenish grauwacke-sandstones, and hard, dark, cal- » careous shales which occasionally become nearly black, impure, flaggy limestone. The two series are folded together, the strike of both being north-north-west and meeting the shore of the lake very obliquely. The direction of dip is genei-ally westwai-d at high angles or vertical. The conglomerates are chiefly composed of greenish, grey and purp- lish altered volcanic rocks, together with limestone of various kinds, and the same constituents in a more comminuted form enter into the composition of the grauwackes. At a point opposite Richtofen Island, black, argillaceous and calcareous beds are charged with numerous angular fragments of the older limestones, the occurrence of which and of the pebbles of altered volcanic rocks elsewhere associated with the limestones, constitute the evidence of unconformity, as the two series are too closely folded together to admit the observation of an angular unconformity. The good exposures found along this shore of the lake are important as indicating the intimate manner in which the rocks of differing age are associated in this region. They show that their separation on the map can be accomplished only by means of a detailed survey. No characteristic fossils were found in the older limestone series which may, however, be regarded from analogy as probably of Carboniferous ago. The newer series is evidently Cretaceous and very probably of the horizon of Series C, the Lower Shales and Sandstones of the Queen Charlotte Islands. A few fossils were obtained at the point ft ip t: ST* DAW80N,] LAKE LABAROE. int to point been fixed on he outline of B, connecting We had not to point out cal examina- ailing winds miners have whole of one .1 evidence of ninow Hills, ike Labarge, y and open. ently repre- t part com- approaches us. Resting s, which pass .• ■, I'd, dark, cal- »\ pure, flaggy ^f both being obliquely, or vertical. and purp- ious kinds, er into the ofen Island, numerous which and with the two series an angular of the lake e rocks of that their a detailed limestone I'obably of and very istones of the point 159 b J. F. already referred to, opposite Richtofen Island, on which M Whitcaves supplies the following note. — "The fossils collected at this locality appear to be somewhat ascretaoeoug follows, though they have only boon subjected, so far, to a preliminary °''*' "" and by no moans exhaustive examination. 1. A single specimen of a small sponge, and, (2.) several badly preserved corals, one with compound and very slender coialiites. 3. Several small lumoUibranchs apparently referable to three genera, two of which arc represented by • mere fragments, while the other may be a form of Pleuromya Ivvigata. 4. A mould of part of a spiral gasteropod, which may bo roferablo to Kerina'a or to the genus Pseudomelania of Pictet and Campiche, 5. A piece of a phragmocone of a small bolemnite. "Those fossils, though somewhat obscure, appear to be of Cretaceous age and possibly of about the horizon of Series C, of the Queen C/hai-- lotto Islands." Of the rocks on the opposite or west side of the lake nothing certain can bo said. Limestone is, however, not a prominent feature in the hills near the lake, though apparent in some of those seen behind the first range. It is not improbable that the Mosozoic rocks are here more ox'tonsivoly developed. ' Tei-races were noted on the lower part of the lake at about 200 feet abi)\e it and at various lower levels) and near the head of the lake the}' 'lurraies. wxre seen at an elevation estimated as being at least 400 feet above it. The rocks along the lake-shore frequently show glaciated surfaces, the ■>,, bearing being in general parallel to that of the lake and the sense of the movement of ice from south to north. The limestone "i"<"'ati'.n. hills are channelled, planed and fluted along their sides and over their summits in such a way as to indicate the formoi- existence of very heavy ice pressure^ Two miles from the lower end of the lake, at tho water-level, the glaciation points directly down the valley through which the river now runs, or I^. 24° E., while two miles further on, the summit of a limestone hill 300 feet high is crossed by heavy glaciation running N. 8° W. The latter may be accepted as that of tho main direction of motion, tho divergence met with being not greater than that frequently found in tracing tho course of the ice of the former Sti-ait-of-Georgia glacier on the coast, where it has passed over rugged country,* and it would appear that in this case the main mass of ice moved into the wide Ogilvie valley, while part of the lower portion of the mass v/as pressed through the smaller valley by which the lake itself now discharges. Whoro the limestone hills have recently been stripped of thoir covering of soil, the sloping glaciated surfaces are still so smooth that it is difficult to walk over them. See Annual Report (jeol. Sur. Can., 1H8G, p. 100 B. 160 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. w Origin of the lake. No definite indication of the mode of origin of the lake was obtained. The observation just cited shows that the valley through which it now discharges existed in glacial times, but it may probably have been of less importance and it is not impossible that before the glacial period the river flowed out by the Ogilvie valley which may since have become blocked by morainic or other drift deposits. ■ I ■J r At Lake Lahargc to Tahk-heena River. The valley. Beyond the bead of Lake Labai-ge, the valley of the Lewes continues equally wi(U', :ind runs in a general southward direction like that of thelake. At I ]u> head of the lake, the valley is occupied by swampy flats nearly at tlio water-level and by low terrace-flats, which, where cut in the river banks, are >een to be composed uf stratified fine sands, which are often iron-stained and a few miles up the river are found to rest upon tlie white silts, showing that they are valley deposits of postglacial date. The limestone range which has bordered the east side of Luke Lubarge, runs on in a southward direction, forming the east side of the wide valleyy Eleven miles and a-Iialf from the head of the lake the TahU- heena River flows in from the west, making a i-iglif angle with tlit main river and at thirteen miles further (still measuring along the The river. J'ivcr), the foot ot White llurse Rapid is reaclui!. The current ot the Lewes is rather slack tor eleven miles from the lake, and the' bed and banks are clayey or sandy. Above this point, the river becomes swift, averaging about four miles an hour, and gravel banks and bais re-appeai'. (For about two miles below the White Horse Ra])id, the eiirrent. is very swift, and though the latter maybe designated as the (J 4'^ head ot possible steamer navigation, it would scarcely pay to endeavour to force a steamer up to th ejvery foot of the rapid^- No rock exposures what ever were seen along this part of the Lewes, the scarped banks, ■ which are often a hundred feet in height, consisting almost entirely of white silts with a widely undulated bedding. Size of th' river. Tahk-heena River. (The Tahk-hcenaf River is a considerable stream and is wide ami slack at its confluence with the Lewes?] jAt about 200 yards from the Lewes, where it has attained its normal size, it was ascertained to he 23Y feet wide, with a depth of ten feet for about one-third of this width, • Several small stern-wheel steamers have, for some years, ascended each summer the Lower Yukon, in Alaska, but so far as I know, none of these have yet gone further up than the mouth of the Stewart ; it would, however, be quite practicable to ascend to the point here indicated. t Named the Yukon at its outflow from " west Kussooa Lake " at its head, on Krause's map. The orthography of the published maps is here retained. The name would probably be more oorreotlj rendered Ta-hi-ni. DAWSON.] LKWES RIVER. 161 B and a current estimated at two miles an hour. The dischai'ge may be roughly estimated at ;j(!00 cubic feet per second, and appeared to be about half that of the Lrwes above the junction or one-third of that below the confluence. The hills which border the south side of this liver at its mouth, ri.se to hii^h rugged mountains at about fifteen miles to the west, and these have the iij)pearance of being largely composed of granite. Tlio water of lliis river is very turbid as compared with that of till' Lowes, and the temppraturo of both rivers was found to be 52° F. on the 6lh of September. ) The principal sources of the Tahk-heena are shown by Dr. A.^ppp^ j^^j^of Krause's exploration to be at a distance of forty to fifty miles from the "'"■'^'"■• head of the west branch of Lynn Canal, and the river was formerly much employed by the Chilkat Indians, who?e chief place is on that arm, as a means of reaching the interior. It is not used by the miners, and now only to a small extent by the Indians themselves, on account of the long and difficult caniage from the sea to its head, but the lake at the head of the river once reached, the voyage down stream is reported to be easier than that by the main river, the rapids being less serious. A sketch of the course of the Tahk-heena River, probably based on Indian accounts, is given on map No. 20 which accompanies the U. S. Coast Survey Report for 1867. This sketch has, however, not been employed on the map of of 1884, it being probably supposed at that time that the Indian information on which it had been drawn referred to the upper part of the Lewes. The Canon. Tiie White Hoise Rapid and Miles Canon form together the mostAvhito iiorse foimidableobstiicle to the use of the Lewes as a route into the interior, (on^iituting an interruption to navigation of two and three-quarter iiiik's in total length. White Horse Rapid is three-eights of a mile long. =i= The worst rapid is at the lower end of the White Horse, whore the river scarcely exceeds a hundred feet in width, with low basaltic banks, and the force of the water is very great, la the upper part of the White Horse, the water flows between low hasalt cliff's Bcarcely exceeding twentj' feet in height, but sufficient to render track- ing precarious and difficult, while the occurrence of numerous rocks in mid-channel makes the rapid dangerous to run. The portage is on the west bank and it is usual to cari-y both boats and cargo over it. Between the White Horse and the foot of the canon the river is very swift, and at one place, a mile above the former and three-quarters of a mile below the latter, the set of the stream is so strong round a rocky * The distances here given are those measured by Mr. Ggilvie. 11 liil.il. r IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) £/ A^^ ^. ' ^^ 4^ ^ 1.0 l.r l^l^l |2.5 |iO "^ 1^ K£ Ui 12.2 ? ^ lll£ IlllUil pS 1 ,.4 IJ^ < 6" ► Hiotogrdphic Sciences Corporation ^ iV ^ '>Q <> ■ r- o^ 31 WIST MAIN SntHT WHSYIk.H Y, MSIO (716) •72-4503 '^ 4 6"^ 162 b TUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. 11' -J I*'..' ' I,-*; I, kl ;• 4 point 08 tg rcndor it advisable to make an additional short portage of 130 feet. * A third portage of tivc-eights of a mile is necessaiy at Miles Gailon. This portage is on the cast bank, and at the lower end, a very steep ancent has first to bo overcome. Hero a sort of extemporized i'he eafloii. windlass has been rigged up by t he miners for the purpose of hauling up 1 heir boats. The cafion is cut through u horizontal, or nearly horizontal, tlow of basalt and is not more than about a hundred feet in width, with vertical cliffs averaging about fifty feet, and never exceeding one hundred t'cct, at the sides. It opens out into a species of basin in.tho middle, but the river is elsewhere inaccessible from the banks) cTer- raced hills rise above the basalt walls on each side of the valley, but are pai'ticularly abrapt on the west bank. The riv^er flows through the oafion with .great velocity, but is unimpeded in its courae, and it is therefore not very risky to run with a good boat^ The White Horse Bapid is, howevei*, much more dangerous, and though some of the minora have run through it — generally accidently — it should not be attempted. Btsaitiorork'. The basaltic rocks of the rapid and cafion are not seen for any dis- tance above or below these points, and appear to represent a local effu- sion of no great area, which is probably confined to the bottom of the valley.] (^ second wide valley runs behind Canon Hill, to the east, and it is possible that this may represent a pre-glacial channel of the river. The basalt is itself evidently older than the glacial deposits. It is grey in colour and often vesicular, the cavities being in some places filled by a radiating zeolitic mineral. MileK Cafion to Lake Marsh. LewM Kivr »nd valley. Wf ^ The great structural valley which is occupied by Lake Labarge and l)y the river above it up to this point, runs on above the cafion as a wide, important depression, bearing nearly due south, and appeal's to bo unintorruptewer end of Lake Marsh is reached. This valley, though extensive bet ween its limiting slopes, is not regularly bounded by ]mrallel rani;es. like that first mentioned) 'The current of the river to within five or six miles of the lake is moderate, not exceed- ing three miles an hour, and the immediate river-trough is narrow, be- ing rather closely bordeii'd by terraces of a hundred feet or more in height. Above this point, to the lake, the current is quite slackYtho terraces gradually retreat towai*d the bases of the hills, and wide, swampy flats occur. The water above the cafion is quite clear and OAWtON.] LAKE MABSH. 163 b 4 -t portage of iaiy at Miles lower end, a )xtemporized )f hauling up ly horizontal, 1 width, with iceeding one basin in^the banks) ^'er- I valley, but I through the se, and it is Vhite Horse some of the lould not be for any dis- a local effu- >ttom of the the east, and of the river. I. It is grey ices filled by jabarge and ca&on as a appeal's to be i, thirty-two to the south' wen ty -three I is reached. lot regularly e current of not exceed- narrow, be- or more in slackYtho ), and wide, 9 clear and blue, showing that its turbidity further down is entirely due to the washing away and falling in of the hii^li banUs of silt. The turbidity of the Tahk-heena is probably also duo to the t^ame cause, '^ Anemone patens and Elceagnm anjenUa are common on dry banks, and \ , .. lation. slopes covered with bunch-grass and Artemisia frigida still occur, evidencing a dry climate. The black pine (Pinus Murrayana) is now very abundant, much more so than on the lower river, and it was hero observed that this tree began to assume a more branching and less rigid form than it has to the north^ Large numbere of salmon were found dead or dying along the banks for a few miles above the cafion,^"'"'""- and the grass along the shores was trodden down by bears attracted here by this circumstance. No salmon were found so far up as Lake Marsh, and the Indians state that this is their limit. It would appear that after their long journey from the sea, those which get so far, ex- haust their last remaining strength in ascending the cafion. (There are some very fine exposures of stratified white silts, often ^^|,i,oJJ,t^_ interbedded with sands, along this part of the river, but no boulder- clay was seen ; neither arc there any exposures of mck in place. Basalt is seldom found as a constituent of the gravels above the cufion, and then only in small pebbles. Rounded pieces of greenish, jade-like J iio. rocks and impure jades, which were abundant below the Tos-Iin-too, here again become common. Lake Marsh. Lake Marsh, so named by Schwatka, in. honour of Prof. O. C. Marwh, siin.ti.m of is known to the miners as "Mud Lake." (jLt is twenty miles in length, "'"' ^'*"''* with an average width of about two miles, pretty uniformly maintained. The valley of which this lake occupies the centre, is notably wide, and the country in the immediate vicinity of the lake is quite low, consist- ing of terrace-flats, or low rounded or wooded hills and ridges. Con- spicuous mountain summits, however, occur at a distance of some miles m inland on both sides of the lake. A moderately well defined range, of which Michie Mountain* 5540 feet in height is the most elevated point, bounds the view on the east side of the lake, from which it diverges in a southeasterly direction.VTo the west is an irre^ularand broken mass of mountains in which several notable gaps occur and which occupy the country between Lake Marsh and the Wat^()ll valley, pi-eviously referred to. The highest points of these, Mount i Lome and Lansdowne, were ascertained to have approximate elevations of 6400 and 6140 feet respectively.) The diversified forms of the mountains in view from this lake render it particularly picturesque, * So named hy Sohwatlu. I* . \ INIUIIIHS. i 164 B YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. & ■ fl. I'* '■ v|,^ U ■:>;. The Inke ini'i Iti tributaiK'-. Track-Knrvey. Rooks. Glnoifitioi and at tho tine of'our vi(*it, on the 10th and Ilth of Sopioniber, the autumn tints of the sispens and othor decidaouH trees and shrubs, min/rled with tho soml>re givens of the spruces and pines, added to its be.'inty. The shdi cs of tie hike are generally rather shoal, and in some places the beach-gravel wuis found to rest on mud or clay, but these peculiari- ties are not ^o striking in themselves as to warrant the application of the name " Mud Lake." The mouth of the M'Clintock Rivei*, which enters the lower end of the lake from an important valley, was not examined closely. It appeared, however, to bo a small stream, and the greater part of the country to the oast of the lake probably drains to the Tes-lin too. A second stream joins the lake at the south-east angle at its head. As in the case of Lake Labarge, Mr. Ogilvie's measured line was here carried along the west shore and in order to complete the outline of the lake. I travelled up the opposite side, making a track-survey of it, which has been embodied on the map. The rocks seen at the lower end of Lake Marsh, and on the island, may be taken as representing the composition of the range which borders the Lewes on the northeast for some distance below. They consist of greenish and purplish altered volcanic materials, probably nil diabase in composition, and are bedded, the strike being appioxim- jitely parallel to the run of the range just mentioned.* Further up the lukeon the samesido, similar rocks were noted in several places, together with some which might bo taken to represent the grauwacke-sandstones of the newer scries described on Lake Labarge. The higher mountains off to. the east waixl appear to bo, at least in part, composed of limestone. At the head of the hike aio considerable exposures of black and dark- 1,'rey, hard, slaty argillilos, finely cleaved and traversed by numerous small quartz veins. The strike of the cleavage is S. 30" E., with a high easterly dip. The rock surfaces .•ilong the lake are heavily glaciated, the direction being, in general, jjarallol to that of the main valley. The evidence is such as to show, however, that at least the subjacent part of the ice of the former great glacier, bifurcated at the north end of the lake, one brunch taking the valley of the Lewes, the other that of the M'Clintock Biver. In the same way, at the south end of the lake, a great part of the ice has been delivered through the wide valley which comes from the south-east between Jubilee Mountain^ and Mount White.X * See Appendix V. (Lake Manh, No HO) for note on one of theie roeki. 1 1887 beinv the year of Her Mnjesty's Jubilee. t So named in honor of the Into Hon. Tlioa. White, towhoie initiatiTe the deipatchof the •xpedition to whloh thii report refers was largely due. 'I 1 letpfttoh of tho oAwtoN.] TAGI8H, BENNETT AND LINDEMAN LAKES. 165 B Tagiah, Bennett and Lindeman Lakes. Tho upper end of Lake Mai'»h is connected with Taginh Lake by :t Ciinectins wide tranquil reach of river five miles in length. The current is hero*^' "^" w, vury slack, and the depth, iu-fordingtoOgilvio, from six to twelve Act. The river is bordered by low terraces, which are particularly wide on the west side, and' are covered with open woods, chiefly consist- ing of white spruce and cottonwo(Kl. To the east, the long irregular ridges find slopes which culminate in Jubilee Mountain begin to rise a short distance back from tho river. A mile above Lake Marsh, on the j,|jj^u immei. east bank of the rivei*, are two roughly built houses belonging to the Tagish Indians. These are the only permanent houses seen along the whole couree of the Lewes, and hero the Tagish people who roam over this part of tho country, reside during tho winter months. From tho description just given, it will be seen that the navigation, Navigable by steamers, from the head of the caiion through Lake Marsh and to Tagish Lake would offer no difficulties, while the tranquil character of the connecting river between the two lakes last mentioned, is such as to practically render Lake Marsh tho lower portion of an extensive system of still- watei* navigation which includes not only Tagish Lake but also Lake Nares, Lake Bennett and possibly other connected waters and which will prove of tho greatest utility at no distant date in facili- tating the opening up and development of tho mineral resources of tho tract of countrj'' in their vicinity. The through distance, from the lower end of Lake Marsh to the head of L ike Bennett, measured along the central line of the various lakes and connecting waters, is about seventy miles, made up as follows. — Marsh Lake 20 miles. , River 5 TagishLake lOfi " LakeNares 2-7 " BennettLake 25'8 " ., Total 701 Tho still water navigation, however, includes also tho West Arm of Bennett Lake, about twelve miles; Windy Arm of Tagish Lake, eleven miles; Tako Arm of same lake, (of which some notes are given below) at least twenty miles; making a grand total of at least one hundred and thirteen miles. Taken as a whole, these lakes constitu^v. a singularly picturesque g^p^ region, abounding in striking points of view and in landscapes pleasing in their variety, or grand and impressive in their combination of rugged mountain forms. ■ii' fmr 166 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Heiiht above lea-leTel. Position ivt'l. OODIieoti' n oft!iul;ilc ■ The elevation of thin remarkable system of lakes above the level of the sea, as approximately aKcertained by the mean of about eighteen barometric observations extending over several days, (all taken in triplicate on as many different aneroids,) is 2150 feet. The mean of the barometer readings was compared with that of those taken during the same days at llniiios' mission, on Lynn Canal, and the resulting height as above given, is |trobably a near approach to the truth. The inner oi- north-eastern edge of the Coast Banges is not horevery SoMtRanpus. Mt'll defined, l)iJt Tagish and Bennett Lakes, with their several arms. may be dcscrilud as lying iijuin this border and as in part penetiating the outskirts <»f the range. The lower part of Tagisb Lake occupies tlif continuation ofthe sanii- wide viilloy in which liMke Marsh lies, and liic valley '•! theTako Arm may also be included ns a part ofthe same ile|>r»'>>ion. To the west of this, the uppt'r part oi" T;iL;ish Lake and Bemicit Lake must be considered as lying amoiiji I lie mountains ofthe Coast IJaniJces, and the liei'^^ht as well as the abrupt ;iii I rugged char- iicior ofthe mountains incrcaso in that direction, ilu'ii- >li>|)os and sum- mits lioldin^' largo areus of j)ormanent snow, even laic in the summer. Tilt- lowt'i- jiart of Taiii-h Lake is vorygenor:illy boidcnd by terrace- flats or by low land oi tlie nature of ternuts. .md ilu- valley runs thi-ough lo the lower end of Bennett Luke, with a nearly uniform Avidth,a^ measured between the bases ofthe niiuntains, though the lake is somewhat eonstrieted I'otwecn Tako and \\ iii'iy arms by the^ ex- tension ill the low land from the north side. A -imiliai" projection of low !illii\i;il land separates Lake Nai-es from tin' uest end of Tagish Lake, a rivcr-liko current being distinctly olisci \ablo in the narrows. The same oecurs at the narrows known as tho Caribou Crossing which separates Xares from Bentiett Lake, but here with the addition of a numtior of irregular sand-hills, with which the low land in question is covei-ed. and whieh also extend i-ound a considerable part of tho north end of IVnnett Lake. Till Windy Arm of Tagish Lake, together with the upper part of lieiiiieit Lake and its West Arm are comparatively narrow mountain- walled inlets, with all the characters of true fiords. The Windy Aj-ra terminates in low, hilly land, from which a eoiipU> n the loNver part of Tagish Lake, this beinLC the most norttiein station observed, and Anemone patens continues abundant, locally. .Somewhat more alpine conditions are, however, indicated by the occiu-ronce of Picea subalpina, which was noted as abundant at the watoi -level on "Windy Arm, and on the upper part of Bennett Lake forms entire groves, growing to a con- siderable diameter, but tapering rapidly and very lough and knotty. Several places were, however, noticed whoro miners had built boats on Bennett Lake, and it was here that Mr. Ogilvie constructed a large scow for the transjiort of his provisions and bulky freight down the river. The Tako Arm, wliich has already been alluded to, really constitutes tlie main continuuii >n and upper part of Tagish Lake. It is narrowed at its entrance to a width little exceeding a mile, b\- a promontory from its west side, iat further on, maintains pretty unifownly, for ten miles or more, a width of a mile and ahalf to two miles. It is bordered on the west by a uniform, bare and wall-like range of limestone moun- tains, between which and theedge ofthe lake, however, a certain width of lower slopes intervenes. The oast side is simihuly bordered by mountains which also appear i(» be in the maincomjtosed of limestone, but the forms of these weie not so well seen, as they wore continuously covered by clouds and mists while we wore near them. This ai-m was not explored and with its connected waters yet remains to be properly delineated on the map. It runs in a south-eastward direction for a distance estimated at ten miles, beyond which it turns more nearly south, and its length and other features connected with it can only be <^iven on the authority of Indian reports and sketches. A long way up this arm, possibly twenty miles or more, a considerable river enters from the east. This is the main continuation of the Lowes and is re- ported to be a tranquil stream of no great length, i-esembling* that between Marsh and Tagish lakes. It flows out of the west side of an- OAWMN.] TAQISH, BENNETT AND LINDEMAN LAKES. 169 b hcse fiords vo the sea, lominating the higher )n8iderable : met with difference jouthwai"d- i thousand -cumHtance of Tagish lower part cMved, and lore alpine I subalpina, rm, and on ig to a con- nd knotty < ilt boAts on ed a large ; down the constitutes 1 narrowed romontory y, for ten 8 boi*dored one moun- tain width dered by imestone, ntinuously 8 arm was e properly tion for a ire nearly u only be Ig way up rev enters and is re* tling' that ide of an- other very long lake which lie» nearly parallel to Tahko Arm. Thit« lake, near its south end, receives several feeders, one of which, entering at its extremity, I suppose to be the Uotulinqu River of the Telegraph Survey, already mentioned, though the Tugish Indians informed mo they named it Yil-hinl. It is probably the south end of this lake Connection with 'fttku which was reached by Byrnes in 1867, and its connection with the River. Tako Arm and the remarkable system of lakes just described, would explain the statement made to Byrnes by the Indians, viz. that it was three days good paddling in a canoe to the lower end of the lake. The length of the ])ortage from the head of this lake to the Indian houses on the Taku was variously stated by Indians at from two to four days. The trail is said to be good, and to run through low country except at one place where it follows along the mountain to avoid swampy land. The name of this lake was given by one Tagish Indian as Atlin, by 111' ther as Tu-kooshok and again Sik-I-nl-kwan, the last being said to in' the Taku Indian name. The first-mentioned name is adopted on •Jii! map. His certain that the greater part Oi the water constituting theMiin s. upc of Lowes River enters by the Tako Arm. This is rendered apparent in ' comparing the stream which flows out of Tagish Lrke with that enter- ing it by the narrows from Lake Nares, where the discharge is prob- uMy not rnuth over one-fourth of the volume of that of Tagish Lake. The brook-^ entering Tagish Lake (exclusive of Tako arm) are quite int^i^niticant. The Indian name of the lake here named Tagish Lake, is Ta-gish-ai Nnmea of (Tagischa of Krauee). It is commonly known by the miners as Tako"**'*''**" Lake, and Sclnvatka adopts this name on his map. It appears, how- evei-, admissible to revert to the proper Indian prt/uounciation of the name, as is here done. lam obliged, by the facts of the case, to in- clude Bove Lake, of Schwatka, as i)art of Tagish Lake, but in order to preserve the name, propose to attach it to the large island in the mouth of AVindy Arm. Lake Nares is known to the miners as " Moose Lake," Lake Bennett as •* Boat Lake." In these cases, though not without some doubt as to the propriety of so doing, I retain Schvvjitka's later names. The Tagish Indian name of Lake Bennett is Koosoo-wu'. It is the East Kussooa Lake, of Krausc. Its west arm is called Noo-koo-tahk. The name of the island on Bennett Lake is Ketle-di-Ku'-te. I did not ascertain the Indian name of Lake Nares. The islands on Tagish Lake, of which Bove Island is one, are named In-te'-i. It will be observed, on comparing Lieut. Schwatka's map with that o^'l'vationi now published, that ho names the west arm of Bennett Lake (though nearly two miles wide at the mouth) *• Wheaton River." To the river which enters near this arm from a valley parallel to the Watson '!€: r ^ r?'i OenenI oh^raoter of the rooki. Schist*. Limeitone. 170 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. valley, I propose to apply this name. In the same way, Windy Arm is put down as " Bovo Bjiy »nd i)robably river," and the great Tako Arm is shown as "Tako River," and described as a stream of inconsiderable dimensions. I can offer no reasonable explanation ol these errors. Geology of the Lakes. The eastern edge of the granitic rocks of the Coast Ranges, is found to cross Bennett Lake obliquely, and probably runs northward along the Wheaton valley. The rocks exposed on the lakes to the east of this line, may be dosciibed as belonging, in so far as ascertained, to a single great Palasozoic series, of which the sub-division cannot yet be attempted, but in which the only fossils found by us are of Carboni- ferous age. It is the same to which the older rocks on the Lewes belong, and closely resembles, both lithologicaMy and in its fossils, the typical area of the Cuche Cieok series on the Thompson and Frascr. The series, as a whole, here consists of massive limestones, withagrent thickness of green and green-grey diabase and felsite rocks, representing altered volcanic materials, and dark- or light-colored cherty quartzitcs and argillaceous or calcareous schists. The oi-der of superposition is uncertain, but the lime^jtones appeared probably to constitute an upper member of iho series, and to be closely associated with the more important masses of contemporaneous volcanic material, while the cherty quartzites and schistose or slaty beds may follow respec- tively in descending order beneath the limestone. Volcanic materials are, however, fonnd in greater or less quantity in all pai-ts of the series. Black argillaceous schists and grey, silvery calc-schists were fouml on the east side of Tagish Lake, between the lower end and the entrance of Tako Arm, and again at the head of Windy Arm, in con- siderable force. At the latter place, the argUlite is finely cleaveil, forming a true slate. It contains quartzite pebbles, which have been remarkably sheared by pressure acting at right angles to the cleavage- planes and doubtless the same which has produced these. The great mass of limestone occura in the ranges bordering Tako Arm on both sides and in the mountains between this arm and Windy Arm. It is generally in the state of marble, and usually rather tine grained, many specimens being very handsomely and curiously marked with grey and black lines or spots. Some beds contain a good deal of silica, ami weather rough, occasional layers are more than half composed of cherty matter. Numerous crinoidal remains are often visible, and a microscopical examination of thin sections, prepared by Mr. T. C. DAWMN.] TAGISH, BBNNKTT AND LINDEMAN LARKS. 171 U Vindy Arm jreat Toko stream of lanation of >s, is found ivai-d along 0 the east srtained, to unot yet bo of Carboni- the Lewes fossils, the ,nd Fraser. nthagront iprosenting - quartzites ■position iH istitute an 1 with the rial, while ow respcc- } materials rts of the 'ero founii d and the I'm, in con - y cleavetl, have been ) cleavagc- Tho groat m on both •m. It h ned, many 1 grey an*l silica, and nposed of ble, and a Mr. T. C. volcanic rookf. Weston, proves some parts of the stone to be largely composed of the F'i»uiin». remains of Fusulina.* To the west of this groat limestone belt and between it and the edge Altered of the granites, most of the roclcH consist of altered volcanic materials, as previously described. Some distinct amygdaloids wore observed among these, but no minute lithological examination of them has been made.t The eastern edge of the granites is reached at about ten miloH up Edge of Bennett Lake, on the east side. Granites continue thence, on the same "^ side, for about five miles and ahalf ; when they are replaced for tive miles by an included belt of stratified rocks, chiefly quartzites, but including also some hornblondic schists. This belt crosses the lake very obliquely in a nearly north-and-south bearing, and appears to re- present a detached portion, more highly altered, of the Paheozoic rooks before described. The quartzites are here much shattered and pyr;.;. '»d, weathering to rusty surfaces and causing the red appearance oi' soit: i of the moun- tains. The same rocks were seen from a distance it: the mountains to the west of the lake, but the greater part of thr- ♦ lountulns on the west side is evide'^tly granite. The giaiii 1.08 seen along the shores of Bennett Tnkt> are generally character of r ^er coarse-grained and hornblondic, though an abundance of black"*""*'' mica is also developed in some places. The felspar is not uncommonly of two kinds, a pink (probably orthoclase)* which is often in largo por- phyi'itic crystals, and a white triclinic variety. The general tint of the rock is grey, and it closely resembles those described from the vicinity of Vancouver Island in the Annual Report for 1886. No gneissic structure was observed, and the micaceous and hornblondic schists locally developed at the junction with the stratified series, are no doubt the result of the extreme alteration of volcanic portions of that series. Glaciation was observed in many places in this system of hikes. Itoiaciation. is unnecessary to specify these, but it may be stated that conclusive evidence is afforded that glacier-ice moved northwai-d, down Tako Arm, Windy Arm and Bennett Lake, as well as eastward, nearly at right angles, in the east and-west part of the lake between Windy and Tako arms. This eastwai-d motion was, however, probably subordinate an. Laku Linden . show that the main mass of ico passing down Ibo Bennett Lako valley continued on to the north by the Watson valley. Well marked and extensive teiiace deposits occur on the mountains on the north side of TajLifish Lake, at an elevation estimated at 1000 feet above it, or about 3100 feet above the sea-level. A glance at the map will show that the lakesof this sj'stem occupy a portion only of a still more extensive system of wide valleys, which arc probably of groat antiquity, and the ])re-glacial direction of ilriiinaijfi' in some of which can only be conjectured. All these valleys nre now, to a great extent, tilled with dctrital deposits, probably duo for tiie most part to the glacial period. No appreciable decpcnini^ of diaina^o levels is going on, and the action at present in progress is constantly tending toward the filling up of the lake-basins. It may bo presumed, lioro as eNowhore, that the lakes of this region now oc'(ui>y tlie place of the last toni^iios of the great glacier, which in the end dis;ippeared ; so rajjidly that thoir beds had not time to become tilled with detritus. / Lake Lindotnan, occupies the continuation of the same valley in which Lake Bennett lies, but is separated from that lake l»y a small rapid stream. lin-ee-quarters of a mile in length. Tliis stream falls about twenty leot l-etwoen the two lakes and is rough and rocky) The |)orta_ue is on tin' east side, and aftei- carrying the greater ]>ar! of our slutl'ovei'laiid, no dilHiulty was experienced in bringing the boatuj)the rapids. Lake Jiindenian (Ti-tshoo-tali-min' of the Ta^ish Indians .Schutliichrofi Lake ol Krauso) is tive miles in total len,i;tli, with an average width otabonl half a mile. It is the extreme bond < if navigation in this api)eared th di'lritus. K' valley in liy ii small stream falls IOC ley) The j)ait of our .' boat uj) the ish Indians ;tli, with an I navigation lice there of . 'Its BhoiOB rising on its , extends to ins the heaci ov runs, but running olV size, which iisons, flows It is the ih the Coast d and tine, everywhere the coast, outh of the fin ' .1 small ■le moil had X < J! o /. u; o o y, < a /. u i Hfl ! ' i,i ! .rl'S i DAWMN.] GENERAL NOTES ON LEWES RIVER. ma already gone over the portage with some of the miners^ we were obliged to wait two days for their return, before wo could obtain the requisite as- sistance to carry over our stuff. Meanwhile we put our boat in a place of security, and occupied ourselves in eliminating everything which was no longer of value from our " outfit." General Notes on Lewes River. The total length of the route by the Lewes River from "the Land- Length of route ing " on Lake Lindeman to the site of Fo't Selkirk is 357 miles. From the outlet of Lake Labarge, to the same point, is a distance of 200 miles, in which the total descent is 595 feet, or at the rate of 2'97 feet to- the mile. f The information obtained respecting the dates of opening and ^iof"„'g5friTers closing of the river in spring and autumn is very fragmentary. It would appear, however, that the rivers generally throughout the region open early in May, while they may be expected to freeze over, in islack- water reaches, any time after the middle of October, on the occurrence of a few consecutive days of hard frost. Loose ice sometimes begins to run in the rivers as early as September 20th, but this generally pre- cedes the actual closing of the rivers by a couple of weeks. In some seasons the rivers do not freeze over till well on in November. The ice, however, I'cmains much longer unbroken upon the lakes, the lakes on the coui-se of the Lewes thus generally preventing the descent of that river by boats till June. ' In 1887, some of the lakes were not o])en for navigation till June 10th, but as already nuuitioned the sea- son was an unusually late one. The Tes-lin-too inuld be crossed in places on ice-jams as la^e as May 22nd in the same >ear, but was open throughout within a day or two after that date. Miners entering the Yukon district by the ChilUoot Pass and Lewes Travel on the river. River, frequently leave the head of Lynn Cuiial in April, and after crossing the pass, — for which fine weather is essential, — continue on down the lakes on the ice, and then, if necessary, wait at some con- venient point for the opening of navigation, and build their boats. In ascending the river, much depends on the build of the boat era- ployed and skill of the men in poling, as well as on the occurrence, or otherwise, of head-winds on the lakes. The whole distance from Forty- mile Creek to Lake Lindeman has been made once or twice in so short a time as thirty days, and I believe that oven this record has been sur- passed by a couple of days on one occa;.ion, but under very exceptional circumstances. Our actual travelling time, from the mouth of the Lewes to the Travelling time lower end of Lake Labarge, deducting all stoppages, was 121 hours, 15 174 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. h. .- 1 Timber. minutes. From the head of Lake Labarge to the lower end of Lake Marsh, deducting stoppages as before, and not including the time occupied on the portages (at White Horse Bapid and Miles Canon) 25 hours 55 minutes. Much, however, depends on the stage of water in the river, as when it is unusually high, the current is not only stronger but many of the bars and beaches are covered, and the poling and tracking is much worse. The time occupied in traversing the lakes is not included in the above statement. Timber suitable for buildin<; bouts can scarcely be found in the vicinity of Lake Lindoman, but no difficulty is mot with in obtaining trees of fair size on Bennett and Tagish lakes. Below these lakes, the country is generally wooded, and there i.s an abundance of spruce of fair quality, growing tall and straight in sheltei'ed localities, but seldom attaining a diameter of two feet. Chilkoot or Taiya Pass.* Cross Chi I k< Pass. ' ' I The Pass. On the 19th of September wo set out with four Indian packers, crossed the summit, and reached a point in the valley of the west slope near what is known as Sheep Camp, the same evening. On the .even- ing of the 20th we arrived at the head of tide-water on Taiya Inlet, and were hospitably received by Mr. J. Healey, who has established himself at that point for purposes of traae with the Indians and miners. We had at this time just completed our fourth month of arduous and inces- sent travel from Wrangell, at the mouth of the Stikine River, by the rivers, lakes and portages of the interior described in the foregoing pages, the total distance traveraed being about 1322 miles. No serious accidents had befallen us by the way, and though, like the miners, we came back to the coast with a deplorably ragged and uncouth aspect, we had with us, intact, our collections, instruments, survey lecoi-ds and notes. It was not the leastpleasingmomentof the entire journey when, from a distance of some miles, we first caught sight of the sea shining like a plate of beaten bronze under the rays of the evening sun. The length of the mountain portage from Lake Lindeman to Healey's liouse, is twenty-three miles and a-half, the summit of the pass being at a distance of eight miles and a-half from Lake Lindeman, with ai. olovation of 3602 feet. The valley on the north or inland side of the summit contains several little lakes which are evidently true I'ock-busins, with lumpy bottoms and irregular contours\ The trail is rough and crooked, and entirely * Known as Chilkoot Pass by the minors, named PorrierPassbySohwatka. (1883). Dejllh Pass of Krnuse (l'>82) of which Taiyn is merely an alternative renderint adopted for the sake of conformity with published oharts. 0AW8ON.] OHILKOOT OR TAIYA PA8E. 175 B without attempt at improvement of any kind. It follows the stream in character of Olio place, for about a mile, through a narrow rocky defile, which has evidently been cut out since the glacial period. Where it crosses wide areas of shattered rocks, it requires the closest attention to follow it, and this can only be done, in the absence of guides, by noting the slightly soiled appearance of the grey stones from one to another of which the Indians step. Some of the valleys to the north of the summit, and near it. :ire deeply filled with perennial snow, over which the trail runs by prt'lerence, to avoid the rocky slopes*. The small lakea highest in the l»;iss were, at the time wo crossed, about two-thirds covered with new iio, which showed little sign -of nu'lting, even under the bright sun \v.lii('h prevailed. Hard frosts wi-ro evidently occurring here in the iimuntalns every night at this st-iison. l-'rom seven to eight milt.- et'tho highest part of the pass may beTimi..T-iitio Miiil to be entirely destitute of timber, even of astunted growth such as might be used for firewood. The nature of the ground is, however, so rofky that it does noUafioid a proper criterion of the normal height of the timber-lint'. At the actual summit, the trail leads through a narrow, rocky jfaj). Simmii. and the whole M-eno is one of the most complete desolatior, the naki-.l granite rocUs rising steeply to partly snow-clad mountains on citlu-r side. The slope of the pass on the north side is rather gradual, and the total ascent from the lake not very great, being but 1334 loot. To the south, on the contrary, it is at first abrupt and even precipitous, South siopo. being accomplished over huge masses of fallen rock, \>hich alternate hero and there with steep, slippery surfaces of rock in place ; but the travelling here is after all not so bad as that met with lower down the valley, where the trail goes through the woods along the steep, rocky and often boggy hillside, leading up and down the sides of several deep, nar- * row gullies. Two small detached glaciers occupy hollows in the slope of the mountains on the west side of this valley, and from these a con- siderable part of the water of the stream is derived. The "Stone )i( " or stone houses, avid " Sheep camp " are points noted inthis part oi the pass, the first consisting of several natural though inconvenient slielters, beneath great masses of rock which have rolled down from the mountain, where the Indians often stop over night ; the second being llu' point where arboreal vegetation of fair growth first begins. At six miles from the head of the inlet, the sti-eam followed down Tho Fork''. IViMu the summit i.s joined by another which has been dignified by the name of the Nourse Hiver. A short distance up the valley of the latter, aro somewhat extensive glaciers and high snow-covered mountains. I'iMli the valley of this stream and that coming from tho pass, are t»aiiow and V-Hh<^P6d) l^ut ft-om their point of junction, a wide flat- i^ n6B YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. fi f l)ottomcd valley runs duo south between high mountain walls and is continued further on in that occupied by the inlet itKulf. This valloy is largely floored by gravel-flats and is evidently subjected at times to Taiyji »iv, for some mileH, when the water is not low, but at the time wo passed this was scarcely practicable. It is, however, easy to walk along the gravel-flats, the only discomfort being the necessity of fording the ice-cold and very swift water several times en route'. S|iring travel. I" the early summer, when the valleys on both sides of the summit are deeply filled with hard snow for a number of milcs,^ the Indians secure a less abrupt grade (particularly on the south slope) by travell- ing on the snow and altogether avoiding the rough sides of the valley. This was the state of the pass when Mr. Ogilvie made his way inland over it in June. His greatest difliculty was found in connection with the Indians, who are untrustworthy and extortionate to a degree. lie and his men were in consequence obliged to pack over a great part of their stuff themselves, and in so doing most of the party became snow- blind. He had with him two Peterborough boats, intended for use in his survey, and in safely transporting them across the Coast Eanges, accomplished a feat hitherto not attempted. Rocke. The rocks met with on the Chilkoot Pass arc practically all granitos, generally hornblendic and gi'cy, though vai-ying in coarseness of gi-ain, and often porphyritic with pink orthoclase. The granite is cut in places by dark grey-green dykes, probably diabase. Near the actual summit it assumes a brecciated or shattered appearance, and here a considerable mass of coarse, black, and probably intrusive diorite occurs. In the valley south of the summit similar granites prevail, but in some places include i-ocks with pretty evident gncissic lamination, which were observed locally to pass into mica-schists. The gravel in the valley is also almost entirely composed of grey granite, thou,i,'h some specimens weather red on account of the quantity of pyrites thoy contain. Below the Forks, on the east side of the valley, the summits of several mountains show rocks evidently stratified, dipping at high angles. These are probably gneiss or schist, like those seen in the valley of the pass. (jiaciation. Many rock-surfaccs on both sides of the summit and up to the highest level of the pass were observed to be glaciated, and though no very certain evidence on this point could be obtained, it seemed prov- able that the ice had moved southward through the gap at the summit. The probable great accumulation of snow and ice on the north slope of the range might account for the parting-axis of the glacier lying to the north of the present actual water-parting. ^:i' ■« ill I Milt ft DAWtON>3 TIIE WHITK PA88. 111b ffnWs and i» This valU'y at timOH to [ICO of thoH« Homo miles, was Bcarcoly vel-flats, the ►Id and very tho summit the Indians i) by traveil- fthe valley. 1 way inland ncction with degree. He gi-eat part of )ecamo snow- ad for use in !oast Banges, y all granites, ness of grain, ite is cut in ir the actual , and here a •usive diorite >9 prevail, but c lamination, 10 gravel in mite, though pyrites thoy le summits of ping at high 3 seen in the d up to tho nd though no seemed pr<»l>- it the summit. noi'th slope of 3r lying to the Scrubby hemlock (Tsuga Pattoniana) in a prostrate form occurs not vefeution. lar below the actual summit on both slopes. Below the "Stone house " this tree begins to become arboreal, and a few miles further down tho viiliey, growrf tall and straight, forming entire groves. Monzies spruce (Abies Sitchensis) also appears, a short distance below " Sheep camp," to- gether with Cottonwood (probably Populus balsamifera). Here also elder and birch wore first seen on the south slope. Tho devil's club {Fatsia horriffa) comes in about a mile above ** Sheep camp." Pinus contorta was not seen till the Forks was reached.) The " Stone house " is named To-hit by tho Indians. The Indian namo Indian namet. of tho Taiya River of tho maps, is Dal e'. Nourse Kiver is named Klt- li-koo-goo-a', the stream followed southward from tho summit of the jiash Sl-tik'. These rivers ars in honour of the late Minister of the Interior. It loaves tiie eoast at tlii^ nv)Uth of the Shkagway River* flvo miles soiitli of the head of Taiya Inlet, and i-uns paruilei to Chilkoot Pass at no gicat disianet^ Irom it. Though tho laud carriage is somewhat l()iiM(.|- by t! is ])as8, it ap]t"ars to present loss difficulty to tho construc- tion of a praotiiaMe trai. of road. Some account of this pass, based on <'apt. Moort!- notos, is given in Mr. Ogilvio's preliminary ioport,f and additional paiticiilarH have since been obtained by correspond, noo with , Capt. Moore. Tlir distance from tho coast to tho summit is stated as Hoventeen miles, of which tho tirst five miles is level imt torn laud, thickly timbere(|. The ne.xt niio miles is in a caiion-liko valley where heavy work would be oncountorod in constructinga trail. The roin.iin- injf distance of tliroe miles, to tho summit, is eomparativoly easy. Tho altitudeof tho sununit is roughly estimated at UtIOO feet. I'eyotnl the summit a wide v.-dloy is entered and the doMeiit to the first little lake is said to ho not more than one hundred feet. Tho mountains rapidly decrease in height ami abruptness after the summit is passed, and tho valley bifurcates, one branch loading to tho hoad of Windy Arm of [ . Tagish Lake, the other (down which tho wa(ort, and no approach to a reasonably correct map of its course existed up to the date of Schwatka's expedition in 1883. The first map of the Chilkoot and Chilkat passes and their vicinity is due, as mentioned further on, to Dr. A. Krause. Indian jealousy The passes connecting the coast with the interior country, from the heads of Lynn Canal to the upper watei's of the Lewes, were always jealously guarded by tho Chilkat and Chilkoot Indians of the coast, who carried on a lucrative ti'ade with the interior or " Stick " Indians, and held these people in a species of subjection. Though tho existence of these routes to the interior were known to the traders and prospectors, the hostility of the Chilkats and Chilkoots to the passage of whites long prevented their exploration. Fables. In the Alaska Coast Pilot (1883, p. 278) it is stated on the authority of Captain J. C. Carroll, that the first transit of the Lewes Eiver and Chilkoot Pass, by a white man, was accomplished in 1864 or 1865 by an employee of the Hudson Bay Company, who started ti-om Fort Selkirk and was delivered by the Chilkoot Indians to Captain Swan- son, then in command of one of the Company's steamers. This story is repeated and amplified in a work by Mrs. E. B. Scidmore, where the adventurer is designated as " a red-headed Scotchman" who " forced his way alone through the unknown teiTitory to Chilkoot Inlet."* I have endeavoured to verify this tale, but quite unsuccessfully, and while it is possible that some deserter fi*om the Company's posts in * Alailui its Southern Coast and the Sitkan Arohipelago. Boston, 1885, p. 119. OAWWN.] EXPLOBATION AND GOLD MINING. 119 b There is still ionally employ This leaves the 3 Chilkoot Pass jold Minino ' Campbell has respecting the iny during their ^smith's map of t that it divided lakes existed on lineation of the (1870) in which h Survey is em- om report, and Bxisted up to the of the Chilkoot ined further on, untry, from the |es, were always tf the coast, who Indians, and he existence of land prospectoie, |Ssage of whites )n the authority 3we8 Kiver and In 1864 or 18G5 irted trom Fort Captain Swan- ^rs. This story lore, where the Iwho " forced his llnlet."* luccessfully, and Ipany's posts in 1119. the interior may thus have reached the coast, it is more probable that the story is ontirelj* apochryphal. Enquiry made on the ground among the minera and others fails to substantiate it. Fort Selkirk had been in ruins for twelve years at the date referred to, and officera of the Hudson Bay Company who were on the coast at the time do not be- lieve in its authenticity. It may, however, not improbably have grown out of the circumstance that a gun and some other articles which had belonged to Campbell's people at Fort Selkirk were, shortly after the raid upon that post, obtained from the Coast Indians by servants of the Company. I have been able to find no reference to the discovery of gold in any Diooovery part of the Yukon watere earlier than that given by Mr. F. Why m per, who writes in 1869 : " It is worthy of mention that minute specks of gold have been found by some of the Hudson Bay Company's men in the Yukon, but not in quantities to warrant a ' rush ' to the locality." * The first white man who crossed from the coast to the head-waters Holt, of the Lewes appears probably to have been one George Holtf, who did so with the object of prospecting the country .J The date of Holt's journey was, I believe, 1878. He was accom- panied bj' one or more Indians, and crossed by the Chilkoot or by the White Pass to the head of the Lewes, lie followed the river down to the lower end of Lake Mareh and walked over the Indian trail thence to the Tes-lin-too, returning to the coast again by the same route. On his return, he reported the discover}' of " coai-se gold," but none of the miners who afterwai-ds prospected the region mentioned, have been able to confirm his statement in this particular. In the Alaska Coast Pilot the date of Holt's journey is given as 1875, and in the addendum to the same work as 1872§ in Mrs. Seidmore's book, already quoted, as " 1872 or 1884." The date and route above assigned to Holt are, however, probably correct, being the result of enquiry among miners who knew him, followed his route through the country, and came in contact with the Indians whom he had met. Some years later, in 1880, a prospecting party of nineteen men was organized at Sitka under the leadership of one Edward Bean. Amicable * Travels in Alaska and on the Yukon . London, 1869, r. 227- t Afterwards murdered by Indians at Cook's Inlet in 1883. Shores and Alps of Alaska, H- W- Seton Karr, London, 1887- t r. S. Coast Pilot, Alaska, 1883, pp. 200, 278. § Other extraordinary journeys assifned to Holt in Mrs, Soidmore's book are, according to the miners, altogether incorrect. Holt appears to have been a romancer with considerable inventive powers, but it ii possible that he made more than one journey. In May 1S78, Messrs. Rath Bros , of Victoria, and Mr. Bean, of California, set out to cross by the Ohilkoot Pass for the purpose of prospecting, but were not allowed to go inUnd by tho Indians. Morris, Report upon the Customs District, etc., of Alaska, 1S70, p. 97. 180 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. ,1*.. }f k\ u I II m^' \mh 1881 Pint proipect- relations were established with the Chilkats and Chilkoots through the in« party. 1880. j^j^ J offices of Capt. Beaidslee, U.S.N., and the Chilkoot Pass wan crossed to Lake Lindemnn. The party had, by this time, increaseil to twenty-five in number.* Boats were built on Lake Lindeman, and on the 4th of July the prospectors set out down stream. The Tes-lin-too was reached and was then, for the first time (and as it proves, erroneously,) recognized an the Hotalinqu. Before returning, the Tes- lin-too, was ascended and proispectcd for some distance. From Georgo Langtry who was a member of the original party, and R Steel, who joined it later, the facts, :ih above given, are derived. f No encouragini; " prospects " were met with at this time, though Steel states that he found bars yielding at the rate of $2'50 a day in a small stream which joins the Lewes fifteen miles above the canon. This largo party was closely followed by two miners known as Johnnj' Mackenzie and "Slim Jim," who reached Lake Lindeman on July 3rd. It is poj-sible that other parties as well may have entered the country in this year, but if so T have been unable to trace them. In 1881, a party of four mineis, including G. Langtrj' and P. Mc- Glinchey again crossed the Chilkoot Pass. These men got as far as the Big Salmon River, which they called the lyon, by which name it is marked on the U. S. Coast Survey map of 1884. They ascended the Bist-named river, four i$ * Deutsche (ieographiscbe Blatter Od. t- Ueft. 4, 1882. Zeitscbr. dei Ges. fiir Erdk. lu Berlin M. xviii, 1883. t See Science vol. iii,1884, also Report of a Military Reoonnaissanoe in Alaska, Wash ington iiuvernment, 1885. Along Alaska'* Great River, New York, 1886. 182 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Charaoter of Forty-mile Creek. if ' *:■ r. i: Miner*. ' r Oeneral feature? of mining. on the second, and two on the Polly. On the Stewart River, as much as $100 A day to the hand was obtained in 1885 and 1886, and pi-obably over $100,000 worth of gold hau already been obtainetl along thin stream. It has been prospected lor a distance of 100 to 200 miles from its mouth, (according to varying Htatements) and the gold found ' furthest up is said to be somewhat " coarser " than that of the lower part. Forty-mile Cieek is reported to bo a river of some size, but more rapid than most of those in the district. It has, according to miners, been prospected for al)out a hundred miles from its mouth, gold being found almost everywhere along it as well as in tributary gulches. The gold varies much in character, bni is quite often coarse and nuggety, and very large amounts have been taken out in favourable places by individual miners. Few of the men mining hero in 1887 were con- tent with ground yielding less than $14 a day, and several had taken out nearly $100 a day for a short time. The amount obtainetl from this stream in 1887 is reckoned by some as high as $120,000, but I be- lieve it would be safe to put the entire output of the Upper Yukon region for the year, at a minimum of $75,000, of which the gr< -vtest part was derived from this stream. The number of miners in the whole Upper Yukon c mtry in 1887 may be slated at about 250; of these, 200 were on Forty-mile Creek, and it was estimated that at least 100 would winter on the creek to bo ioady for work in the spring. Forty-mile Creek is what the miners term a " bed-rock creek " i.e., one in which there is no great depth of drift or dctrital deposits below the level of the actual stream. It is so far the only locality wliich has been found to yield " coarse gold," but from the extremely wide dis- tribution of" fine gold," it may safely be predicted that many more like it remain to be discovered. Mining can scarcely be said to have begun in the region more than five years ago, and the extent of country over which gold has been found in gieater or less quantity is already very great. Most of the prospecting has been confined to the banks and bars of the larger rivers, and it is only when their innumerable tributary streams begin to be closely searched, that "gulch diggings" like those of Dease, Mc- Dame and other streams in the Cassiar district, and possibly even on a par with Williams and Lightning creeks in Cariboo, will be found and worked. The general result so far has been to prove that six large and long rivers, the Lewes, Tes-lin-too, Big Salmon, Polly, Stewart and "White, yield "fine gold" along hundreds of miles of their lower courses. With the exception of the Lewes, no part of the head- waters OAWMN.] KXPLORATION AND GOLD MININO. 183 b oCany of these have yet been prospected or even reache'""'5'"." ''"''^* ' (if certain trees. though closely looked for along tae coast in the vicinity of Lynn Canal, no single specimen of it was detected there. It is confined to the mouth of the Stikine River, and does not follow up this low valley for any distance inland. The yellow cedar (TAuJ/a excefsa) scarcely reaches Sitka, and is not anywhere found among the inner islands near the entrance to Lynn Canal. The alder (Alnus rubra) forms groves along the shore at least as fin- nL>rth as latitude ,59'^ The western crab- ajjplo (Pyrus rivularis) occurs here and there as fiii- north as Lynn Canal. The broad-leaved maple {Acer macrophyUum) may reach lati- tude .55'' on the Alasl • r. co,"tst, as stated by Prof. Sargent,* but was not observed by mo, and must be quite rare. North of the Prince-of- Wales Ai"(>iiy "lago, eight-tenths of the entire forest of the coast region con- sists of the single species, Menzie's spruce (Picca iSitchensis). Pinus contorta was noted at the head of Lynn Canal and elsewhere along the coast. Here also, in the valley of the stream on the south side of the <'hilkoot Pass, by which the Coast Mountains are crossed, Tsuga Pattoniana grows to a fair size. It is found also within a few hundred * Report on the Forests of North America, U. S. 10th Census, p. 47. M 7 '^^1 190 b TDKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH OOLDMBIA. feet of the summit of the pass, at an altitude exceeding 3000 feet in a prostrate form, but still frequently bearing cones. Abies amabilia (?) was noted in the valley of the west slope of the pass, and occurs along Lynn Canal and elsewhere o i the coast. The devil's-club (Ffl^a/a horrida), a plant most characteristic of an atmosphere saturated with moisture, is not anywhere seen in this pait of the interior countiy, but was met with in the valley to the west of the Chilkoot Pass, and ascends the Stikine valley to a point a few miles above the Kloochman Canon. Note. — ^The approximate limits of several species of trees, etc., are indicated on the Index Map attached to this report. im 1 APPENDIX II. cees, etc., are NOTES ON THE INDIAN TRIBES OF THE YUKON DISTRICT AND ADJACENT NORTHERN PORTION OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. Such information as I have boon able to obtain during our journey Rpgion respecting the Indian tribes of the extreme northern portion of British """* * ' Cohimbia and the adjacent Yukon District, are given in the following pages. Between the northern edge of the ethnological map of British Columbia prepared by Dr. Tolmie and myself in 1884,* and the known portion of the area of Mr. W. H. Dall's similar map of Alaska and adjacent region8,t a great gap has existed, which I had proposed to endeavor to till in connection with the work of the Yukon Expedition. While this intention has been very imperfectly' executed, owing to various causes not necessary here to particularize, but especially to to the fact that during a great part of our journey we met with neither Indians nor whites from whom information might have been obtained, it is felt that any facts on the Indians of the district possess some value, not alone from a scientific point of view, but also in their bearing on the Indian question from an executive standpoint. Throughout the more southern portion of British Columbia, a differ- inland and cnce of the most marked kind is everywhere found as between the Coast indiani. maritime Indians of the coast and the inland tribes. While this differ- ence is largely one of habit and mode of life, it is also almost every- where coincident with radical differences in language ; the natural tendency to diversity as between coast-inhabiting fishermen and loam- ing hunters being intensified and perpetuated by the great barrier of the Coast Ranges. Only upon certain routes of trade which have existed between the coast and the interior is this striking diversity to some extent broken down. The Fra-ser, the Skeena, the Nass and — in the region here specially referred to — the Stikine and the pusses at the head of Lynn Canal, constitute the most important of these routes. From Dixon Entrance northward, with the exception of certain ThUnkit. small outlying colonies of the Haida on Prince-of-Wales Island, the * Comparative Vocabularies of the Indian Tribes of British Columbiai 18M. t Contributions to North American Ethnology, Vol. i. r III. si ill 1 J,: 1 jl'i l-l Tahl-tan Indinns. 192 b YUKON DISTllICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Coast Indians are undoubted Thlinkit, forminf; a series of contiguous and more or less closely allied bands or tribes, between which the diversity in language is small. The inland Indians, on the contrary, belong to the great Tinnd family. On the Stikine, as explained below, a certain overlapping of these two races has occurred ; and to the north, the Tagish, a branch of the Thlinkit, extend a considerable distance inland into the basin of the Lewes, as now first ascertained. The interior Indians are collectively known on the coast as " Stick Indians," and the fact that this name is also applied to the Tagish, in consequence of their situation and habits being like those of the Tinn^, explains the circumstance that they have heretofore been confounded with that people. Tinn^. Respecting the Thlinkit of the coast I am unable to add anything of value to what has already been published. In what follows regarding the inland Indians, the several tribes are taken up in the order in which they were met with on our lino of travel. The region included between the Coast Ranges and the Rocky Moun- tains, to the south of that here reported on, and in which are the head- waters of the Skeena, Eraser and Peace rivers, is inhabited by two great divisions of the Tinn^ people, designated on the map before referred to, as Takulli and Sikani. These main divisions comprise a large number of small tribes or septs. Since the publication of the map, I have ascertained that these divisions are known to the people them- selves as Tah-khl and Al-ta'-tin respectively. The division of the Tinn^ met with on ascending the Stikine is named Tahl-tan and consists of the Tahl-tan people proper and the Taku. These Indians speak a language very similar to that of the Al-ta'-tin, if not nearly identical with it, and, so far as I have been able to learn, might almost bo regarded as forming an extension of the same division. They appear to be less closely allied by language to the Kaska, with which people they are contiguous to the eastward. Their territory. The Indian village near the Tahl-tan or First North Fork of tho Stikine, is the chief place of the Tahl-tan Indians, and here they all meet at certain seasons for feasting, speech-making and similar pur- poses. The Tahl-tan claim the hunting-grounds as far down the Stikine, coastward, as the mouth of the Iiskoot River, together with all the tributaries of the Iskoot and some of the northern sources of the Kass, which interlock with these. Their territory also includes, to the south, all the headwaters of the main Stikine, with parts of adjacent northern branches of the Nass. Eastward it embraces Dease Lake, and goes as far down the Dease River as Eagle Creek, extending also to the west branch of the Black or Turnagain River. It includes also all the northern tributaries of the Stikine, and the Tahl-tan River to its sources. DAWSON.] APPENDIX II. 193 b f contiguous n which the he contrary, laincd below, to the north, ible distance tained. The Lick Indians," I consequence , explains the cd with that i anything of ws regarding the order in Rocky Moun- are the head- )ited by two I map before s comprise a »n of the map, people them- I of the Tinn^ onsists of the ik a language tical with it, regarded an ir to bo less )plo they are Fork of tho lore they all similar pur- down the thor with all aurces of the eludes, to the 9 of adjacent Deaso Lake, ctending also includes also tan River to 11 The Taku form a somewhat distinct branch of the Tahl-tan, though Taku Indians, they speak the same dialect. They are evidently the people referred to by Dall as the Tah'-ko-tin'-neh.* They claim the whole drainage- basin of the Taku River, together with the upper portions of the streams which flow northward to the Lewes ; while on the east their hunting-grounds extend to the Upper Liard River, and include the valleys of the tributary streams which join that river from the west- ward. They are thus bounded to the south by the Tahl-tan, to the west by the coast Taku (Thlinkit), to the north-west by the Tagish, and to the east by the Kaska. The territorial claims of the Tahl-tan and Stikine Coast Indians Riirhfg of coaat (Thlinkit) overlapped in a very remarkable manner, for while, as tribes, above stated, the former hunt down the Stikine valley as far as the Iskoot, and even beyond that point, the latter claimed the salmon- lisliery and berry-gathei-ing grounds on all the streams which enter the Stikine between Shek's Creek (four miles below Glenora) and Telegraph Creek, excepting the First South Fork, where there is no tisher}'. Their claim did not include Telegraph Creek nor any part of the main river ; nor did it extend to the Clearwater River or to any of the tributaries lower down. In whatever manner the claim to these streams may have been acquired, the actual importance of them to the Coast Indians lay in the fact that the arid climate found immediately to the east of the Coast Ranges enabled them to dry salmon and berries for winter provision, which is scarcely possible in the humid atmosphere of the coast region. The strict ideas entertained by the Indians here with respect to ter- ritorial rights is evidenced by the fact that the Indians from the mouth of the Nass, who have-been in the habit of late years of coming in sum- mer to work in the gold mines near Dease Lake, though they may kill . Iieaver for food, ai-e obliged to make over the skins of these animals to the local Indians. Thus, while no objection is made to either whites or foreign Indians killing game while travelling, trapping or hunting for skins is resented. In 1880 or 1881 two white men wont down the Liard River some distance to spend the winter in trapping, but were never again seen, and there is strong circumstantial evidence to show that they were murdered by the local Indians there. On the Stikine, as in the case of other rivers and passes forming Trade botwceu routes between the coast and the interior, the Coast tribes assumed the huerio"*^ part of middle-men in trade, before the incursion of the miners broke up the old arrangements. The Stikine Indians allowed the Tahl-tan to . trade only with them, receiving furs in exchange for goods obtained on the coast from the whites. The Tahl-tan, in turn, carried on a * Contributions to North American Ethnology, vol. i. 13 W m Honses- ■: 'I Chief's name. Superstitions. Character of wars. 194 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Bimilar trade with the Kaska, their next neighbors inland. The right to trade with the Tahl-tan was, in fact, restricted by hereditary cus- tom to two or three families of the Stikine Coast Indians. With the exception of the houses already referred to as constituting the Tahl-tan village, and some others reported to exist on the Taku, the residences and camps of these people are of a very temporaiy char- acter, consisting of brush sheltei's or wigwams, when an ordinary cot- ton tent is not employed. "We noticed on the Tahl-tan River a couple of square brush houses formed of poles interlaced with leafy bi-anchcs. These were used during the salmon-fishing season. At the same place there were several graves, consisting of wooden boxes or small dog- kennel-like erections of wood, and near them two or three wooden monumental posts, rudely shaped into ornamental (?) forms by means of an axe, and daubed with red ochre. On attaining the chieftaincy of the Talsl-tan tribe, each chief assumes the traditional name Na-nook, in the same manner in which the chief of the Coast Indians at the mouth of the Stikine is always named Shek or Shake. The Tahl-lan Indians know of the culture- or creation-hero Us-tas, and relate tales concerning this mythical individual resembling those found among the Tinn^ tribes further south, but I was unable to com- mit any of these to writing. Amongst many other superstitions, they have one referring to a wild man of gigantic stature and supernatural powers, who is now and then to be found roaming about in the summer season. He is supposed to haunt specially the vicinity of the Iskoot Biver, and the Indians are much afraid of meeting him. Between the Tahl-tan and the Indians inhabiting the Upper Nass* there has been a feud of long duration, which is even yet outstanding. There is much difficulty in settling such feuds when life has once been sacrificed, as they assume the character of a vendetta, a strict account being kept, which must be balanced by the killing of an equal number on each side before lasting peace is possible. The account of the foud here referred to is derived from Mr. J. C. Callbreath, who has been at some pains to ascertain the circumstances. It may serve to illustrate the nature of the intertribal "wars" carried on in the sparsely inhab- ited region of the interior. * We are unfortunately without precise information as to the tribal divisions of the Indians of the Nass. According to the late Dr. Tolmie, who had long resided at Fort Simpson, in tlie vicinity of the Nass, the people about the mouth of the river are named Niska (sometimes writ- ten Naskar), while further up the river are the Nitawulik (Tinnd?). (Comparative Vocabularies, p. 113 B.) It is probably the people so designated who come in contact with the Tahl-tan, but in the meantime I prefer to call them merely Nass Indians. The statement above quoted, how- ever, does not tally with that made to G. Qibbs by Celestine Osier, a Tshimsian half-breed, i.e., that to the northward of the tribe inhabitinK the Nass was a tribe named Nis-kah. (Contri- butions to North American Ethnology, voL i, p. 143.) ? OAWION.] APPENDIX II. 195 b [. The right, ireditary cus- 1 constituting on tho Taku, nporary char- ordinary cot- kiver a couple afy branchcH. be same place )r small dog- three wooden ras by means chief assumes lich the chief s named Shek i-hero Us-tas, imbling those mable to com- rstitions, they supernatural n the summer of the Iskoot Upper Nass* outstanding- las once been strict account qual number it of the foud lo has been at to illustrate )ar8ely inhab- >nB of the Indians rt Simpson, in the (sometimes writ- iive Vocabularies, e Tahl-tan, but in )OTe quoted, how- half-breed, >'.'.. Nia-kah. (Contri- For a long period preceding 1856 there had been peace between thef'Sf^****? Tahl-tan anfl Nass Indians, but in or about that year the latter, follow- Nasi. ing up one of the branches of tho Nass River into Tahl-tan territoiy, killed two individuals of that tribe, who happened to be men of import- ance. Two or throe years later, the Tahl-tan found an opportunity of killing in retaliation four of the Nass. In 1861, the year preceding the tii'Ht gold excitement on the Stikine, a peace having been meanwhile con- cluded, the Nass Indians induced some of the Tahl-tan to visit them in their own country, a short distance from the recognized boundary, at a place named Yak-whik, which is the furthest up fishery of the Nass Indians, and at which they have a large house. The Nass people then persuaded two of the Tahl-tan men to return some distance into the Tahl-tan country, ostensibly that they might bring their friends to en- gage in a peace talk and dance, two of the Nass Indians accompanying them. The Nass, however, killed both Tahl-tan Indians the first night out, and then turned back. When they arrive*! at the house, the remaining Tahl-tan men were killed and their women (seven in num- ber) and children (three boys) were made prisoners. Two of the women, with one of the boys, however, escaped and eventually found their way back to their friends. Another of the women was after- wards brought up the Stikine and redeemed by her people. Two more have since died in the Nass country, and one still I'emains there as a slave. The last event in connection with this feud occurred in 1863 or 18C4, when the Tahl-tans raided into the Nass country and waylaid a man and woman with three children. The adults, with two of the children, were left for dead, but the man afterwai-ds recovered consciousness and managed to get home. One of the children was not harmed and has since grown to manhood, and is known to be meditat- ing revenge on the Tahl-tan people. Notes on the Tahl-tan Indians by Mr. J. C. Callbreath. The following account of the principal characteristics of tho Tahl-tan Indians has been kindly drawn up at my request by Mr. J. C. Call- breath, who has spent many years among these people. Tho general oi-der followed is that of the Circular of Enquii-y issued by the Com- mittee of the British Association on the North-western tribes of the Dominion of Canada. In transcribing Mr. Callbreath's notes some un- important verbal alterations only have been made. Maximum stature about 5 feet 7^ inches. Maximum girth about the Measuremenu chest 37 inches. Legs and thighs well muscled. Arms rather light. As a rule full chested. Heads, unlike the coast tribes, small. Feet and hands generally small, as are also the wi-ist and ankle, especially i 196 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. I' '■!■ 1 ;■ '^ I in the women. We sell more No. 2 women's and No. 6 men's shoon than any other wize [representing a length from toe to heel of 8f inchoH and 10 inches respectively]. In hats for the Indian trade wo take nothing above No. 7 [equal to circumference of 22 inches]. The trunk is generally long and the legs short, — the former nearly always straight, with small waist and broad hips, the latter usually curved or crooked, a circumstance which appears to be due to too early walking and carrying packs by the children. Brain-capacity small, head round, forehead low and bulging immediately above the eyes, Imt generally broad. Half-breedg. The half-brecds are more like the father, and three generations where the father is in every ca^e white, seem to obliterate all trace of Indian blood. If the case were reversed and the male parent in all cases an In'.ian, the result might be different. Have never seen or heai-d of an DiseaBe*. albino among them. Their most common ailments are pulmonary consumption and indigestion. The former caused by careless and un- necessary exposure, the latter by gorging and drinking at their periodical feasts. They have other diseases peculiar to themselves, induced, as I believe, by imagination or through feai" of the medicine- men or witches. AcutenesB of Their acuteness of sight, hearing and smell are great, but I do not believe racial. Practise and training as hunters, render them pro- ficient in these respects. Their eyes fail early, and are even more liable to disease than those of whites. It is rare to meet a man of fifty among them with sound eyes. Snow and sun together, with smoky dwellings, probably explain this. The children are cunniug and clover when young, ^. " "o th-an those of the white race, but grow dull as they age. Language. I have never seen anything like gesture-language among them, and will not attempt a description of their common tongue, except to siy that I can see no similai-ity in it to that of the Chinese, with whom I have had intercourse to a ccn^ider'jble extent for the past forty years. They reckon time by iiioons, .nd now seem to rely more on what the whites may tell them as t... 'he coming of winter or spring, than on their own knowledge. The stone age is now scarcely more than a tradition, though they know of the time when they had no iron, axes, knives, ^uns or the like. Stone knives, adzes, and sledges or hammers, have been found by the miners from time to time, and it is said that the sledges were used for killing slaves on certain occasions, as well as for braining bears in their hibernating dens. WeaviDg. I cannot learn that these Indians ever used copper before its intro- duction by the whites. Yarn is spun from the wool of the mountain goat (not the mountain sheep or big-horn) and is woven into excellent Stone implements. 0«*SON.J APPENDIX 11. 197 b 6 men's shoon heel of 8f inchcH trade wo tuke ics]. I former nearly e latter usuully I due to too early -capacity small, )ve the eyes, Imt mcrations where I trace of Indian in all cases an n or heai-d of an are pulnionaiy jareless and un- Inking at their ■ to themselves, )f the medicine- it, but I do not inder them pro- are even more et a man of fifty er, with smoky iniug and clever it grow dull as ong them, and except to (?:iy , with whom I )ast forty years, ore on what the spring, than on y more than a no iron, axes, es or hammers, t is said that (be as well as for efore its intro- f the mountain into excellent blankets which^are highly coloured and ornamented. The process of boiling water with hot stones in baskets or wooden bowls was formerly common. The dunces of the Tahl-tan are tame affairs compared with those of Dance*, the Coast tribes. Masks representing bii'ds or bears are sometimes worn on these occasions. Their musical propensities and capabilities aie, however, considerable. In their dances they use the common Inilian drum, known all over the continent. No athletic games are practised. Kinship, so far as marriage or inheritance of property Kinship, goes, is with the mother exclusively, and the father is not considered a relative by blood. At his death his children inherit none of his pro- perty, which all goes to the relatives on his mother's side. Even though a man's father or his children might bo starving, they would get none of bis property at his death. I have known an instance where a rich Indian woultl not go out or even contribute to send others out to search for his aged and blind father who was lost and starving in the moun- tains. Not counting his father as a relative, he said, — "Let his people go and search for him." Yet this man was an over-average good Indian. They seom to have no inherent good qualities which will overcome the vicious and unnatural rules and customs of their tribe. Although the son thus, in many cases, seems to have no regard for his father, the latter generally has a parent's love for the son, and desires to see him do well. The whole tribe is divided into two casts. Birds and Bears. A man Totems, who is a Bird must marry a Bear and his children belong to the Birds, but the Bears, his mother's people, inherit all his effects. The right to hunting-grounds is inherited. A Bear marrying a Bird may go to the Birds huntin '-ground, that is to the hunting-ground belonging to the particular fa. ly of Birds into which he has married, or he may stay on his own hunting-ground belonging to his particular Bear family, which he inherited from his mother. His children, however, by his Bird wife or wives, after becoming adult, cannot resort to his hunting- ground. His children, both male and female, being Birds, must marry Bears. They might, if males, marry his full sister, who being iv Bear is not counted a relative, and thus, through her, inherit a right to her father's old hunting-ground. In some cases, when such proprietary rights are valuable, and the father is anxious that his son should be able to claim the old homestead or hunting-ground, such an arrange- ment is made. The son may be eighteen and his father's sister (his aunt) may be fifty, but such disparity in age is of no consequence at all. The son's wish is to secure his title. He may forthwith take another young wife to please his fancy. 198 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Maniage. Chieftaincy. r"!' J Customs anil laws. A man's femalo children are as much his property as his gun and he sells them to whom he pleases without consulting their feelings at all. The vendor sometimes gets his pay at once, sometimes by installments, and if the installments are not paid, he may take back his daughter with her children as well. If, however, the husband pays for his wife in full, the vendo: is held sti-ictly to his bargain in respect to supply- ing a wife, and should tho first die and he have any more eligible daughters, one of these must take her place, and that without any additional compulsory payment. Thus, for instance, a man of fifty may buy a j'oung wife of fifteen (a not uncommon occurrence) and pay for her in full. Ten years afterward tho young wife may die, and if there be another unsold sister, that sister, according to their laws, must take her place without any compensation, unless it be voluntary. Tho husband * always evinces a high regard for his wife's parents and never tires, if able to do so, of making them presents. A chief's son has no right to his father's title or any claim to rule by virtue of his being tho son of the chief, although the tribe may choose him as their chief. A chiefs brother (full oi* half) or his sisttr's child, is the legalheir, but his right must bo sanctioned by a majority of the tribe, and the oflSce frequently passes to whoever has most property to give away. All the Indians are very miserly, and they often go hungry and naked for the purpose of saving up blankets, guns, etc., with which to make a grand " potlatch '' (donation feast) to their friends. This secures them consideration and a position in the tribe. Practically very few of the men have more than a single wife. When a man has two wives, the younger, if she be sound and lively, is the head. Separation and divorce is easy and re(|uires no formal act, but if a man should send away his wife, on whose hunting-grounds he may have been staying, he must leave her inherited hunting-ground, unless he has another wife who has a right to the same ground. These hunting grounds are extensive and are often possessed in common by several families. The laws are based on the principle that any crime may be condonod by a money payment. If a man should kill another, he or his friends must pay for tho dead man^-otherwiso he himself or one of his friends must be killed to balance the account. Tho vicious and unnatural practices of these people appear to lie traceable in all cases to the teaching of their medioine-men or witches, in whom they believe implicitly. Their religious belief was simply what their medicine-men might lay down for them from time to time, the idea of a Supreme Being, being very obscure, if not altogether wanting. •] APPENDIX II. 199 b They have no war chiefs, and I cannot find that they ever had a Wars, general war with any other tribe. Some families have had and are yet having trouble with families of other tribes whom they claim en- croach on their hunting-grounds. Those families fight it out among themselves by waylaying and murdering each other, but there it ends without producing any inter-tribal war. Gratitude and charity seem to bo foreign to the natures of those ^^|^„„gyg ^jj^j people. A man often gives away all he has to his friends, but it is for ""»"«• purposes of personal aggi-andizement, and his father, mother or sister inuy be sick, freezing or starving within sound of his voice. His ])ro8ents bestowed upon those who are strong and above want bring him distinction, which is his only object. The young Indians are, however, more Immane and charitable than the aged. The Tahl-tan Indians have no totem-poles, although they preserve the familj' lines, and observe them as strictly as do the salt-water tribes. The}' have no fear of death except from dread of the pain of dying, and this is very much lessened if they have plenty of goods to leave to their friends. They are very stoical, and not omoticmal, in ail}' sense. I have never seen one of them tremble or quake with fear or auger. There is a belief propagated by their medicine-men or witches that the otter gets inside of their women and remains thoo until death, sometimes cau ing death by a lingering illness unlike any- thing I have ever seen, in other cases allowing the woman to live on till she dies from tome other cause. The name Kaska (from which that of the district Cassiar is dei-ivcd*) Kiiska Indians, is applied collectively to two tribes or bands occupying the country to the eastward of the Tahl-tan. I was unable to learn that this name is ret'ognized by those Indians themselves, and it may be, as is often the case with names adopted by tne whites, merely that by which they are known to some adjat'ini tribe. It is, however, a convenient designa- tion for the group having a common dialect. This dialect is ditferent from that of ^ho Tahl-tan, but the two j)eoples are mutually intellig- ible and to some extent intermariied. The Kaska are still more closely allied by langutigc and marriage to the Indians of the Lower Liard, who are commonly referred to as the " Hudson Bay Indians," from the circumstance that they trade with that company. Practically ho whole of the Kaska trade cither at McDame Creek oi- at the little outpost at the mouth of the Bease. The entire number of Indians ro- * Mr. J. W. McKay statei, in answer-to a iruent^on afidref>?od to him on that siibjeot, thatCnniar i^a corrupt xpolling of the word Kankii. Mr. Mt'!{iiy fiirtlior addH that lio has a ouspiolon that tlio word Kaeka i« connected with that k.n). Xamos'of the tribes. OAWtON.] APPENDIX II. 201 B 'U tsho-tl-na at the little post at the mouth of the Dease, and their curiosity proved to bo very embarrasing. Mr. Egnell, who was in charge of the post, excused it by explaining that they had never seen ^;o many Whites together before, the number being nine in all, includ- ing our party, Mr. Egnell himself and Mr. McDonald, of the Hudson Bay Company. Of these Indians, only two had been as far west as Dease Lake, and none had ever seen the sea. They are, however, fairly well off, as their country yields abundance of good furs. They visit the Migration?, trading post only once in the course of the year, spending the remain- der of their time moving from camp to camp in isolated little family parlies, hunting and trapping ; each one traversing a very great extent of country in the course of the twelve months. Some of their traps or household goods are packed on dogs, but the greater part of their im- pedimenta is carried by themselves on their backs, canoes being seldom employed. Elvers and lakes are crossed in summer by rafts made for the occasion. They generally bring in only the fine furs, as bear-skins and common furs are too heavy to transport. They evidenced great curiosity with regard to our equipment, being paiticularly struck by a canvas boat and an air pillow. These and other objects, I have no doubt, furnished subjects of conversation round many camp tires for the ensuing year. The Kaska form a portion of the group of tribes often referred to by the Hudson Bay Company's people as the Nahanie or Nahaunio, and so classed collectively by Dall in the absence of more definite in- formation.* For the northern district, drained by the Pelly, Stewart and other Indians of rivers, I am unfortunately unable to give much detailed information Shifrio™ iCfipccting the Indians, a circumstance due to the fact that we scarcely fuct any of these Indians, nor did we proceed far enough down the main ■ ,or to meet the traders, from whom something might doubtless havo I "un obtained. Tlie name of the Indian tribe inhabiting the Upper Pelly valley wasindian* of '. ijn to me by the Indians at the mouth of the Dease as Ta-koos-oo- ^'"'" ^""*'" i-na, by Indians met by us near the site of Fort Selkirk as Na-ai'. The territory of this tribe iucluies also the basin of thoMacmillan and that of the Stewart as far down as the mouth of the Beaver, or '' First North Fork," a very extensive region. I believe, however, that the names above noted either refer to local sub-divisions of the tribe, or are terms applied to them by neighbouring tribes and not recognized by 'ht'mselvcs. Dall in his article already cited (following Boss) gives .M bato-tena' as the name of a tribe inhabiting the Upper Polly and Macmillan, while Petitot places the name Esb•> ••■••• 124 13 129 14 96 .S5 20 159 12 ISO 13 379 60 279 27 j 668 87 745 Fort Bae. Dog Ribs and a few Slaves \ and Yellow Knives j 123 131 91 25 145 142 359 298 657 —657 Peel R and LaPiene^s House. . 1 Loucheux (Koochin) A few Esquimaux occa- sional vieitors. 81 92 21 7 83 53 185 152 337 —337 1 Yukrni. Loucheux of six tribes These are all that resort to the fort. : -> 156 121 75 218 137 474 368 842 —842 Fort lAard. 1 S^lfLVAft .••.. ..•• ...•*. .... •■ 45 12 9 47 16 9 38 7 ?, 14 • • • • 84 16 11 53 27 7 167 35 22 114 43 16 281 78 38 Sicannies or Thicannies .... N^nhanies. —397 Fort Resolution, Chipewyans and Yellow "j Knives, with a few Dog [■ Bibs and Slaves ) 98 149 • • • • «... 119 103 217 252 469 —469 Fort Good Hope. FTarft IndiRnn 76 23 1 78 22 1 68 18 3 23 3 3 80 17 39 12 224 58 4 140 37 4 364 95 8 Loucheux and Batard liou- \ cheux / N^Ahnnipfl. . ...... —467 Fort Norman. Slaves 19 23 22 8 19 25 24 9 10 17 21 2 • • • • 9 20 27 28 18 14 11 29 8 49 67 71 26 35 36 62 17 84 Hares • Doc Ribs 1.3.'l Xfth&nies 43 —363 '■ 0AW5ON.] APPENDIX II. 207 b Makried. Adults. Childrex. Total. i ^ , ny V O c \ uh-hoh' My vife e8-t8i-yu''-na sine-is-tshT-yong U8-8a-wut-te My non es-tshl-me sine-i8-tshi''-ma uh-hl-yif'-e My daughter es-too''-eh 8ine-i8-too''-a My elder brother es-ti-uh kut-t''-uh My younger brother es-t«hTt''-le i-tahl-'ala My elder mter e-tii''-ta a-tad-o My younger mter e8-tt"'-juh a-tad'-zuh An Indian dT'den''-e den''-uh tahut-lek' Head es-'tsi e8-8e' ka-8uh Hair es-tsi-gu' es-tsf-ga'' ka-sha-ha-oo Face es-sne es-enC'' ka-guh' Forehead es-t8e''-ga es-tsi'-ge ka-kok' Ear e8-thi'8''-botl 8U8-pa''-luh ka-kook'' Eye es-tii'' es-ta' ka-wok None es-tshi' ea-tsi ka-tlooh Mouth ea-sat'-a es-za-de 'koh Tonijue es-8ii'' es-za-de ka-tloot'' Teeth es-gooh' es-Cyuh' ka-oh' Bturd es-stane''-GUH es-ton-o-kh'' ka-kuh-taJ-zai'' Neck es-kos'' es-'kcis ka-hlootih'' Arm e8-sl-tluh ea-ka-'-nuh ka-tshin Hund es-sluh'' 08-8ita'' ka-tahin Finfjcrfi es-sluh'' or slus- sr-gnh es-sita'' ka-tlC-uk Thumb 8lU8-tsho'' slas-tsho'' ka-koosh' Little finger slus-tshedMe Nails is-li-gun'-a fila-kun-a'' kn ' .,1 vi. Body es-hia'' es-zi'' ka-kt-ain'' CkH es-tshan es-tzong ka-hat-ka'' Bdly es-bCi es-pit ka yoo-kuh'' Femcdc breasts ma-t6''-ja e8-to^-ja too-tla Leg es-tsen-a es-tsut'-za ka-kud'-ze Foot e8-kuh' es-'kia'' ka-koa Toes ea-ku8-t8h6'' (probably great toe) es-kuh-gau''- 'a^ ka-tlC-uk Bone es-tae"'' es-taun'-uh taak 14 210 b TUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. 1 " h m English. Tahl-tan. es-tshra' Tl-T8II0-Ti-NA. Ta-cish. Heart es-tzi-u ka-teh' Blood e-ted-luh e-til-uh'' sheh Village ke-ye' kon'-a ai-t-i-tl (?) Chief tin-ti'-na tin-a-te'-yuh an-kow' Warrior e-ted-'-etsha Friend ea-tsin-e sa-za yu-keh' House kl-mah' es-kon'-a hit Brush mgwam tso-Ia-hlt' es-kon'-a hit Ketde 'kotl sloo-sa'-a kl-sha' Bow afc?-iin sT-te-uh'' tshoo-net' Arrow 'k-ah es-ku-ah kii-kutl Axe tsI-U taGntl shin-a-wha Knife p^sh es-pa-ztih kll-ta Canoe ma-laMe sa-la-ah' yakw Mo'xasim e-tshil-e-keh'' (stt7i shoes) es-kuh' titl Pipe V es-tzil-e-ke''-duh tsik-ta-ktt' Tobacco tSt-a-KH tzid-a-too'-do tse-uk Sbj ya-za kr)s tik-kl' Sun tsha sa ka-kun' Moon Sa itl-tir' Star sunM sun kw lin-a-ha Day zeu-is do-te-dzuh . ha Daylight ye-ka'' Ninht ih-kK-guh kla-kle-ge tat Morning tshut-tshaw- tlunG' e-kla-dzi tsoo-tat' Evening hih-guh' tlah-ka-ha' ha'-na Spring ta-nC'' ta-tuna-ka-ga ya-kune-t^hatF Summer kli-we-guh' i-pah kus-sl-at' Autumn ta-tla' yes'k Winter ih-lia-yeh hat''-ya Wind it-tsi' it-s! nook Thunder it-ti-i-tshi' it-tl-ji in-dl-jeh' Lightning kun-ta-tsel kun-ta-tziK 8oon-tsha'-na Rain tsha' tsha" tsoo Snow ZU8 zns kliet Fire kfiQ kun 'kan Water tsoo too hin Tee ten" tun 't-ik Earth, lend nen nin hoo-tl-tluk Sea e-etia e-C'tla fta-ka-'-koo-tsho" e-'tl River too-desft {ivhen large) too-za-za (when small) bin 11 DAV(SON.] APPENDIX II. 211 B Ta-gish. i-teh' eh -t-i-tl (?) i-kow' ii-keh' it [t i-sha' ihoo-net' a-kutl hin-a-wha ll-ta akw Itl sik-ta-ket' ,ae-«k ik-kl' sa-kun' itl-tir' kw lin-a-ha iia tat tsoo-tat' ha' a'-na a-kune-tshatV us-81-at' es'k nook in-dl-jeh' 80on-tsba'-na tsoo kliet kan hin 't-ik hoo-tl-tluk 'tl bin Engube. L'lke Prairie Hill Mountain Jfland Stmt; rock Salt Iron Forent Tree ]Vood Livf Bark Grass Fine Cottontvood ricsh, meat Dog Biur Wolf Fox Bar Mountain-goat Moimtain-sheep Caribou Beaver Rabbit, hare Fly Mosfjuito Snake Bird Egg Feathers Wings Goose Buck (mallard) Fish Salmmi Name White Black Red Blue Yellow Tahl-tan. mi'ii ta-gos'-ke 'klo'-ga tah his-tslio ta-i^too-e tSe e-C'tlft pes-te-zin' got-€ tli-ge-gut' taet-tsh-tsGlsh e-tfme'' ed-la klofth gfv-za e-tset' kli shush tshl-yo-ne nus-t8C'''he kiw-igana 6-tsi'' tsha guh tsI-mC'h tsl tsl-moh e-ga-zuh' tshosh ml-I-tsene gan-jeh too'-deh klew'-eh klew'-eh on-yeh ta-'kad'-le ten-es-kla'-je te-tsl-je te-tlesh'-te t8im''-tlet Ti-tsho-tI-na. men tsin-I-tla a-tega hi-za-za tsutl ta-CiVa tsa pC-zin tsoo tsutz a-tona se-tod-za kl6-ye a-tzun kli BUS tshi-yo'-nuh nis-tsa'' goo-dzi'' tsa guh tso-tsa' tsi-a tih e-ga'-zuh met-tshosa me-tzon-a gun-tsha too''-dah hloo''-ga ges toon''-ya ta-kud'-za ten-as-kluz'-e a-tul-a' det-lls-da ten-a-tse-a Ta-gibh. uh yin-a-tlet'-ki tshoo'-kun shah ka'-tuh tth C-'tl ki-ye'-tsuh shi-ti-hin-as {many trees) she-tlek'-aa et-ka-whut'-ti ke-ga-iil a-hloo-nl tahoo'-kun kletl or kaon-se tie til kitl hootz noos na-kat-se tshen-oo ta-wi'h' but-slh' tsi-ge-di'' kah ka-kon-a-wit'-se ta'-ka ti-koo-too'-da koktl efc-kot'-e a-kwat'-le e-ki'-je ta-wuk ka-whw Hat tah kle-tul/-uh-te too'-teh ka-nul/-e-te ta-tlin-suh tsoo-yuh-uh-ta wm 212 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Et r H ■'N Enguhh. Tahl-tan. Tl-TSHO-Ti-NA. tsud-a-da-tso' Ta-gish. Green (same a» yellow) {same as yellow) Great, large e-t8ho ta-etoihu a-tlin' Small, little U-a-tsed'-le ta-tzille'' ti-tshoo-tluh' Strong na-tl-yi nun-t! hli-tdin' Old es-tstian sa-a yoo-got Young es-kl-uh ti-too yis Good e-tl-'-uh e-to'-uh ya-ka/ Bad tsha''-ta koos-t3a''-tsa kon-ai-a-oo Bead a-juh' a-jah yooMia Alive te-tshi' goote'' kwa-gi-tl' Cold hos-tli' goo8-tli or el-oo- goo ye-tik Warm, hot hos-sitl a-te-zuUe' yoo-tli-tik J shi-ni nin'-e hat Tliou nin-e sin'-e me-eh m a-yl-ge T-ye W9 ta-hun^-e Ye kla'-tse Tliis tl-te di-di Tliat a-yl-ge I-ye' All st-tse ta-tr-da nt-la-kut Many, much oo-tla" au8-tlo" shi-a-te-hen' Who ma-dai-e Far ni-sii-te goo-din-e-8ttt' na-ldl Near haliMie ha-nfi kwun-a-si , Here tls-tsik To-day too^-Ka di-doo-den-e ye-ki''-yi YeHcrdny kit-so''-kuh ta-tsho" tet-kuh To-morrow tsJia-tshfi'' ta-tshon tsoo-tat' Ye» i-h ho° a-huh No ti-wuh in-too-uh kirk 0m tlT-gel/ e-tle-'-ga tshut-lt'k fm ' tla-krh hlek-et-e-ta' tih time tu-tO' ta-di-drt natz Four klen-tel/ hlen'-ta ta-koon ' m$ klo-dlile'' klo-la' kl-tehin'' Six iia-slikC'' nod-sli^-ga kle-dooshuh' StTcn na-sla-krh'' nod-i-slik-a tuh-a-doosliuh' Eight na-stfie'' nos-ta-di-da'' natz-ka-doo- shnh' Mne na-slen-tch' nos-I-slen-e-ta koo-shok' Ten tso-emV-ne ti8-C^nr)-go-anzi- tli-ga' tshin-kat Eleven tso-snu'-ne-tes- tis-f^niVgo-anzi- t8liin-kat-ka- liheh la-kut-e-tla tlal/ Twelve o-dis-lii-krh'' tleh-gad-ih-no' tshiu-kat-ka-tc'li 0»W80N.] APPENDIX II. 213 b nt-la-kut shi-a-te-hen' English. Tahl-tan. Tl-TSnO-Tl-NA. Ta-qish. Ttrentij teu-tk-dih-teh'' ta-tis-no teh-tahin-kat Thirty ta-tP08-nan tlen-tad-es-no nats-tshin-kat Forty klon-ta-t808-nan klan-tad-es-no ta-koon-tshin-kat Fifty tlo-tluts-008-na-ne hloo-lad-es-no Sixty na-sllik-'-is-oos- na-ne no-sli-gi-tis-no Sn'mty na-slak-ets'-oos- no-ea-sla-kad-is- nfi-ije no FAghty na-sta-e-tsoos- no-de-tad-es-no niT-ne . Ninety na-stlin-tPs-oos- na-ne no-slaii-tad-eS'Do One hundred klo-la-ten-iin-e-ta tis-no-kiii-e-ta' tahin-kat-ka One thousand To eat otz-et-etz'' en-tsutz (?) at-huh' To drink etz-oo-tan-en-e too-in-to'" toonuh'" To run kis-too-tshe'-ane in-gulh' klakw To dance en-dle' in-le' kit-li-gat?/ T'o mng en-tshin in-jTn a-tahi^ To sleep nos-tt'tl'' sin-te'' tah To speak hun-toh goo-din-tah'' yoo-kwa-tin' Tom- nat-Hi guan-es-ta'' hlo-tin' To love na-is-tlook'' tk)on-kut-la- tin (? To till tsin-hia' ze-ht whA-tshuk To Mt t^in-tnh' sin-ta'' sl-tfth' To stand nun-zif nun''-zut git-a-han'' Togo ■ un-tlrh' had-in-tlelh yuh-kot 'To come a-m'h'' a-iii lia-koo To lealk yes-3ha''-dle had-in-tle' yoo-tin-a-kooh' To nork ho-ya-estluh' kin''-hla kloon-kut-tlai- yuh To steal en-a-i iu-I'' ha-ti-tih'' To lie tse-es-tslt'' toon-tsit' skai-tliMlh To give me-gii-nT-fil/ ta I-ka''-wlia-te To laugh na-es-tlook'' ted-iu-tlc ■li'' a-tshook'' To cry eh-tsliih en-tsai ' kali i^ t"^ APPENDIX III. LIST OF PLANTS COLLECTED BY DR. G. M. DAWSON IN THE YUKON DISTRICT AND ADJACENT NORTHERN PORTION OF BRITISH COLUMBIA IN 1887. By Prof. J. Macoun, F.L.S. Note. — References are nlso included to plants contained in a small collection made by Mr. W. Ogilvie, D.L.S., during the progress of his work on the Lewes River, Ranunculace.e. 1. Anemone parvif(ora,Mx. Canon of Upper Liard River. 2. Anemone deltoidea, Hook. Dease Lake. Fl. June 8th. A rare and interesting species. 3. Anemone Bichardsoni, Hook. Cassiar Trail twenty miles west of Dease Lake. A very re- markable species with yellow flo -ers. 4. Anemone multifida, DC. Frances River. Lake Bennett. (W. Ogilvie.) 5. Anemone patens L. var. JSuttalliana, Gray. Dease River, east of Cassiar Mountains; Upper Liard near Frances River ; Ujjpor Pelly River near its confluenco with the Lewes. b". Hanunculus Flammtda, var. reptans, Meyer. >^ " Pelly Banks ;" Upper Folly River. 7. Ranunculus affinis, var. validus, Gray. Cassiar Trail nine miles west of Dease Lake. Fl. June 5tli. 8. Ranunculus abortivus, h. Cassiar Trail twenty miles west of Dease Lake. Fl. .June 3rd. '^ Aquilegia brevistyla, llook. Frances River. 10. Delphinium scopulorum, (xvay. Hills west of Finlayson Lake. ■^'/t / IX 216 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUiiBIA. 11. Caltha palusiris, L. Chilkoot Inlet. (W. Ogiivie.) 12. Aconitum Napellus, var. delphinifolium, Sevinge. Finlayson River. Veiy fine specimens. 13. Actoea spicata, var. arguia, Torrey. Telegraph Creek. Fl. May 28th. U ^YMPUJEAO^JE. 14. Niiphar polysepalum, Engelm. Finlayson Lake. lit/ ill I i FUMAKIACBJE. 15. Corydalis glauca, Pursh. " Felly Banks," Upper Felly River. 16. Corydalis aurea, var. occidentalis, Graj\ Telegraph Creek. Fl. May 27th. CRUCIPERii;. 17. Cardamine prafensis, L. Frances River ; Finlayson River. 18. Cardamine hirsuta, L. Hills west of Finlayson Lake. 19. Arabis lyrata, var. occidentalis, Watson. Cassiar Trail nine miles west of Dease Lake. Fl. June 5th. 20. Arabis IlolboilUi, Hornem. Stikino River above the canon. Fl. May 22nd. Telegraph Creek. Fl. May 27th. 21. Barbarea vulgaris, var. arcuata, Hook. Finlayson River. 22. Sisymbrium incibum, Engolm. Telegraph Creek: Stikiiie River. May 27th. 23. Sisymbrium humile, C. A. Meyer. Mouth of Lewes River. Aug. 15th. 24. Draba nemorosa. var. hebecarpa, Lindb. Tahl-lan Rivoi-. Fl. May Slst. Viol ACE. K. 26. Viola blanda, Wiild. Cassiar Trail 36 miles west of Dease Lake. Fl, June 2nd. • ■ l:ii # 1 ■ , i( ill OAWBON.j APPENDIX III. CaRTOPHYLLACE/E. 217 b 26. Silene Douglasii, Hook. Dease Eiver. 27. SiUne acaulis, L. Lake Lindeman. (W. Ogilvie.) 28. Arenaria vema, var. hirta, Wat. Mouth of Lewes River. 29. Arenaria congesta, var. subcongesta, Wat. Lewes Eiver. 30. Arenaria laterijfora, L. Telegraph Creek. Fl. May 27th. 31. Arenaria physodes, DC. Pelly Banks ; Mouth of Lewes River ; Lake Lindemau. 32. Stellaria longipes, var. minor, Hook. Telegraph Creek, Fl. May 27th ; Tahl-tan River, Fl. June Ist; Lewes River. 33. Cerastium alpinum, var. Behringianum, Regel. Hills west of Finlayson Lake. 34. Cerastium trigynum, Vill. " Pelly Banks." Very rare. LiNACE.E. 35. Linum perenne, L. Upper Pelly River. Sapindaoe.e. 36. Acer glabrum, Torr. Stikine River above the canon. Fl. May 22nd. (The form with laciniate-lobed leaves.) Leouminosi:. 31. Lupinus Nootkatensis, T>oni\. . ■ ■ ' Upper Liard River ; Second North Fork of Stikine River. Fl. June 1st. 38. Lupinus arcticus, Watson. Upper Liard River. A very interesting species. 39. Astragalus alpinus, L. " Forks of Liard and Dease rivers. 40. Oxytropis campestris, DC. Upper Liard River. Lewes River. (W. Ogilvie.) ' 41. Oxytropis viscida, Nutt. Dease River. ';s; i fi-J 1 1 L,.'i 218 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. 42. Oxytropis JJamberti, Parsh (?) Dease Pjvor. 43. Hedysarum boreale, Nutt. Frances Lake. Tagish Lake. (W. Ogilvie.) 44. Hedysarum Mackenzii Eichards. Telegraph Creek, Fl. May 27th ; Upper Liard Eiver. Bos ACE ^. 45 46 47 49 Prunus Virginiana, L. (?) Telegraph Ci'eek. Fl. May 27th. A very remarkable form, and seems to be the one referred to on p. 167 of the Botany of California, as distinct from P. demissa, and yet not true P. Virginiana, Bubus arcticus, L, Francis Eiver. JRubus arcticus, var. grandiflorus, Ledeb. Dease Lake. Fl, June 8th. 48. Dryas octopetala, var. integrifolia, Cham. & Schlecht. Francis Eiver, cool, shady bank, not seen in any other locality'. Dryas Drummondii, Hook. Glenora, Gtikino Eiver. Fl. May 25th. (Common along river bars.) Lewes Eiver. (W. Ogilvie.) 50. Geum macrophyllum, Willd. : 4 . Hills north of Finlayson Lake. 51. Fragaria Virginiana, Duchesne. Telegraph Creek. Fl. May 25th. Abundant locally over the whole region. 52. Potentilla Norvegica, Jj. •. . .. ■. Mouth of Lewes Eiver. , 53. Potentilla Hippiana, var. pulcherrima, Wat. Telegraph Creek. Fl. May 27th. 54. Potentilla palustris, L. ' Lewes Eiver. 66. Potentilla fruticosa, L. Frances Eiver. Very common throughout district. Lake Bennett. ("W. Ogilvie.) 66. Poterium Sitchensis, Wat. Lake Lindeman ; near the mouth of Lewes Eiver. 57. Bosa Sayi, Schw. Upper Liard Eiver ; "Pelly Banks " ; Lewes Eiver. August 26th (second flowering). DAWSON,] APPENDIX III. 58. Pirus sambucifolia, Cham. & Schlecht. Lake bennett. 59. Amelanchier alnifoUa, Nutt. Telegraph Creek. Fl, May 24. Dease Eiver, east of Cassiar mountains. Tagish Lake. 219 K Up SAXIFRAOACEiE. 60. Saxifraga nivalis, L. Frances Eiver. 61. Saxifraga tricuspidata, Eotz. Telegraph Creek, Fl. May 25th ; Dease Eiver, east of Cassiar Mountains. Lake Bennett. (W. Ogilvie.) 62. Tellima tenella, Walp. Telegraph Creek. Fl. May 2tth. 63. Ghrysosplenium alternifolium, L. Dease Eiver, Fl. June Ith. 64. Pamassia palustris, L. Lewes Eiver, near the canon. Common generally along the rivere. 65. Bibes setosum, Llndl. Glenora, Stikine Eiver. Fl, May 25th. 66. Bibes rubrum, Ij. Head of Dease Lake. Fl. June 7th. ' Chilkoot Inlet, Fl. May 27th. (W. Ogilvie.; 67. Bibes laxiflorum, Pursh. Dease Lake. Fl. June 7th. 68. Bibes Iludsonianum, Hichai'dB. Glenora, Stikine Eiver. Fl. May 25th. Telegraph Creek. Fl. May , th. .Cbassulace^e. 69. Sedum stenopetalum, Pursh. Cailon of Lewes Eivei Tagish Lake. (W. Ogilvie.) HALORAUKiE. 70. Hippuris vulgaris, L. Lewes Eiver. 220 b ww YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. ONAGBACEiE. Tl. Epilohium coloratum, Muhl. Lewes Eiver. 72. Epilohium augustifolium, L. Common and generally distributed. Lake Bennett. (W. Ogilvie.) 73. Epilohium latifolium, L. Common along rivers generally. Lake Bennett. (W. Ogilvie.) • Umbellif£R.x. 74. Selinum Dawsoni, C. & E. Pelly Eiver. Lake Labarge, (W. Ogilvie.) A new and veiy interesting species described in Coulter's Botanical Gazette, Vol. XIII. p. 144, June 1888. 75. Archangelica Gmelini, DC. Chilkoot Inlet. (W. Ogilvie.) Araliace^e. 76. Fatsia horrida, Benth. & Hook. Two miles from Kloochman Canon, Stikine Eiver, and in the valley on >*outh side of Chilkoot Pass. Not seen in interior. tV"''^- CoRNACEiE. 77. Camus Canadensis, L. Common general l3^ 78. Cornus stolonifera, Mx. Telegraph Creek, and common generally. CAPRIFOLIACEiE. 79. Viburnum paucifloi'um, Pylaie. Telegraph Creek, and generally abundant throughout the entire district. 80. Linnoia torealis, Gronov. Common generally. Eubiace.e. 81. Galium horeale, L. Upper Pelly Eiver ; Tagish Lake ; Lake Bennett. Lake Labarge. (W. Ogilvie.) DAWSON.] APPENDIX III. 221 B ( r COMPOSITiE. 82. 83. 84. 85. 86. 87. in Coulter's 88. 89. 90. ir, and in the 91. I in interior. 92. 93. ■ ► 94. 95. 9G. lout the entire 97. * 98. 99. Solidago multiradiata, Ait. Tagish Lake. (W. Ogiivie.) Solidago Virgaurea, var. alpina, Bigel. Lewes River. (W. Ogiivie.) Aster occidentalism Gray. Lewes Eiver. Aster Sibiricus, L. " Pel ly Banks ; " Frances River; between Frances Lake and Peliy River. Lewes River. (W. Ogiivie.) Erigeron acris, L. Lewes River, Erigeron acris, var. Droebachensis, Blytt. "Polly Banks " ; Lake Lindeman ; hills south of Pelly Banks. Erigeron compositus, var. discoideus, Gray. Telegraph Creek. Fl. May 25th. Erigeron cicspitosus, Nutt. Pelly River in two localities (above and below Macmillan River). Erigeron glahellus, var. pubescens, Wat. • Neai- mouth of Lewes River. Antennaria plantaginifoUa, Hook. Lewes River. .. AchilUva Millefolium, L. . " Pelly Banks." Tagish Lake. (W. Ogiivie.) Artemisio borealis, var, Worms/uoldii, Bess. "Pelly Banks." Artemisia Canadensis, Mx. Pelly River. * . Artemisia vulgaris, var. Tilesii, Ledeb. Francis Lake ; " Pelly Banks." Artemisia dracunculoides, Vvivsh. Pelly River. Artemisia frigida, Wilki. Telegraph Crook. Fl. May 27th; Uppo' Polly River; Deaso River to oast of Cassiar Mountains. Petasites sagittata, Gray. Second North Fork of Stikine River. Fl. June Ist. Arnica cordifolia, Hook. Telegraph Creek, Fl. May 28th. % .,,.., j. 222 b TDKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. 100. Arnica latifolia, Bong. Lake Bennett. (\V. Ogilvie.) 101. Senecio palustris, HooV Hills south of « Pelly Banks." 102. Senecio lugens, Richards. Upper Liard Rivor; Frances River; hills west of Finlayson Lake. 103. Senecio aurexis, vnr.'borealis, T. & G. Dease River ; Finlayson River ; Telegraph Creek. Fl. May 27th. 104. Orepis elegans, Hook. Upper Pelly River above the canon. 105. Taraxicum officinale, var. glaucescens, Koch. Canon of Upper Liard. Ericace^. 106. Vaccinium uUginosum, L. Frances Rivor ; Lewes River ; head of Bennett Lake. 10*7. Vaccinium ovalifolium, Smith. Head of Bennett Lake. 108. Vaccinium ccespitosum, var. cuneifolium, Nutt. Doasc River ; Canon of Upper Liard. 109. Arctostaphylos alpina, Spreng. Cassiar Trail twenty miles west of Dease Lake, Fl. June 3rd ; also about height of land between Liard and Pelly, and on the Upper Pelly River. 110. Arctostaphylos Vva-ursi, Spreng. Telegraph Creek. Fl. May 2'7th. Generally abundant. 111. Loiseleuriaprocumbens,J)esy. Chilcoot Pass. (W. Ogilvie.) Fl. Juno 10th. Ledum latifolium, Ait. First seen on Cassiar Trail about thirty miles from Dease Lake. Abundant on Upper Liard and Pelly rivers. Tagish Lake. (W. Ogilvie.) Menziesia ferruginea, Smith (?). Lake Lindeman, and west slope of Chilkoot Pass. PRIMULACEiE. ' 114. Primula Mista^inica, Mx. Francis River, in flower and quite common on river banks from which watei' had lately receded. 115. Androsace septentrionalis, L. Telegraph Creek, Fi. May 27th; Glonora, Stikine River, Fl. May 24tb. 112. 113. li-i M OAWtON,] APPENDIX UI. GkNTIANACE/E. 223 b 116. Gentiana Amarella, var. acuta, Hook. Finlayeon River. Lewes River. ' (W. Ogilvic.) in. Gentiana glauca, Pall. (?) On mountain near Finlay.son River. f:|i PoLEMONIACE.i;. lis. Polemonium coe'rukum, L. Finhu'son River ; quite abundant about the height of land be- tween Liard and Pelly rivers. 110. Polemonium hunnle, viw. pulehellum, G^ay. Telegraph Creek. Fl. May 27th ; Glenora, Stikino River, Fl. May 25th ; very abundant and characteristic on south-east part of Cassiar Trail. HyDROPII YL LAC E.E. 120. Phacelia Franklinii, Grav. Canon of Lewes River. Dease Lake. river banks le River, Fl. BORRAGINACE/E. 121. Echinospermum Redoicskii, var. occidentale, Wat. • Telegraph Creek, Fl. May 2'7th. ' i 122. Merfensia paniculata, Don. Cassiar Trail thirty miles south-west of Dease Lake. Fl. June 2nd. Common. Lake Bennett. (W. Ogilvie.) ScROPHUTiARIACEiE. 123. Castilleia pallida, var. septentrionalis, Gray. Lewes River. 124. CoUinsia parviHorn, Dougl. Glenora, Fl. May 25th ; Telegraph Creek. 125. Euphrasia officinalis, Jj. ■ Lewes River. 126. Pedicularis hirsuta, li. Finlayson River. 127. Veronica alpina, L. Hills west of Finlayson Lake; Finlayson River. 224 b TUKOIf DISTniCT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. 128. Pentstemon confertus, var. cceruleo-purpureus, Gray. Gallon of Lewes River. Tagish Lake. (W. Ogilvie.) LENTIBl'LARIACEif:. 129. Pinguicula villosa, L. Frances River. P V CHBNOPODIACE.f . 130. Chenopodium capitatum, Wat. Telegraph Greek, Stikine River, Fl. May 27th ; " Pelly Banks." Lake Labarge. (W. Ogilvie.) I'i' '•', POLYOOXACE.K, 131. Polygonum viviparum, L. Francis River. El.eagnace.e. 132. Elceagnus argentea, Pui-sh. Telegraph Greek, near confluence of Pelly and Lewes Rivers, and in several places on latter river. 133. Shepherdia Canadensis, Nutt. In flower, abundant at Glenora and Telegraph Creek, May 23rd. Santalace^e. 134. Comandra livida, Richards. Frances River. Betulace.k. 135. Betula papyrifera, Ait. Stikine River, May 22nd ; Lewes River, near its mouth ; Dease River. Occurs generally throughout the district, ex- cept along upper part of Pelly River. 136. Bctula glandulosa, Mx. Abundant everywhere in suitable localities. 137. Alnus rubra, Bong. Frances Lake. Chilkoot Inlet. May 27th. (W. Ogilvie.) ih CA*SON.] APPENniX III. 225 b 138. i:{9. 140. 141. 142. ' Pelly Banks." Ml!. 144. 145. 140. 147, SALICACEi)C. Salix speciosa, Hook. Lake. 188. Poa alpina, Linn. Lake Lindeman; "Pelly Banks." 189. Poa ca'sia, Smith. Lake Lindcman ; Dease River; Frances River ; "Pelly Banks." 190. Poa cenisia, All. Hills west of Finlayson Lake. 191. Festuca ovina, L. Lake Lindeman ; " Pelly Banks." 192. Festuca scabrella, Terr. • • j Frances Lake, and Finlayson Lake. 193. Agropyrum violaceum, Lange. Lake Lindeman ; " Pelly Banks " ; Lewe.s River. 194. Hordeum iuba:.m, L. T D- '''.IT . t Lewes River. , . 195. Elymus dasystachySy Trin. TJeaso River. ' ■ ' ' * Equisetaec-*:. .' • ' « 196. Efjuisetun„ varieyatum, Schleicher. Upper Liard River. June 2, 1887. FiLlCES. 197. Aspidium fragrans, Swartz. On rocks, Frances River. 198. Cystojderis fragilis, ]iernh. Telegraph Ci eek. Musci. •r '. .r. ,-■•,.. . ■-■. >^-. xf. ■■'• ■,.'■ '• "..•-< it;. ' -■■■ ♦'*, ■ ■4^.\.' V^' I 199. Splachnum luteum, L. 200. Webera nutans, Iledw. Upper Liard River. June 27, 1887. 201. Marchantia polymorpha, Ij. TJpi)er Liai'd River. Juno 27, 1887. ako; Finlayson APPENDIX LV ZOOLOGY. " Pelly Banks.'" List op Diurnal Lepidoptera by Jamks Fletcher, F.H.S.C, F.L.S. 1. List of Diurnal Lepidoptera collected in the Yukon District and adjacent Northern Portion of British Columbia. Specimens in tliis list, not othcrwiBO noted, were collected Ity Dr. G. M. Dawson and assistant, J. McEvoy, in 1887. Papilio Machaon,Jj., var. Aliaska, Sciui. Frances River, July 1 ; throe miles below summit of Chilkoot Pass (from Mr. .^[cDougaII). July 15, 1886. ■ Papilio Turnus, L., Juno 28, 1887; three miles below Little Cafion, Lower Liaftl (long. 128° 13'), McConnoU; Devil's Portage, Lowoi* Liard (long. 12(5° 10'), July 15, 1887, McGonnell; Francos River (lat, G()° 29'), July 1. Picris Netsoni, Edw, Telegraph Crook, Hlikino River, May 27. Pieris Napi, Espor. Arctic form, Bryonia', Ochs. Doase Lake, June C. Pieris Napi, Esper. Arctic form, Bri/onioi, Ochs., var. Jfulda, Ed., West of Finlayson Lake ('it. 61° 45', long, 130° 55'), July 28. Pieris Napi (1) ; winter form Venosa, Scud. Dcase Lake, Juno 17. P>eris Napi (2) ; winter form Oteracea-hyemalis, Har. Frances River (lat. 60° 29'), July 1; Lewes River (lat. 61° 55'), August 27. Anthocaris Ausow'des, Bd. Cassiar Trail, ten miles west of Dcaso L:ike, June 4; Telegraph Creek, Stikine River, May 2'.»; Deasc Jjako, June 7. Anthocaris Stella, Edw. Telegraph (Jreek, May 29. Colias Christina, Edw. Uppor Pelly River (lat. 62° 47', lon,i-\ 137° 20') August 7 ; site of Fort Selkirk, August 17, Ogilvio. Argynnis Chariclea, Schnoid. Finlayson River (lat. 61° 40', long. 130° 16'), July 22; Finlayson Lake, July 27 ; Upper Pelly River (lat. 61° 60', long. 132°), August 3. Polly or Yukon Rivor, August 7, 1888. McConnell. Argynnis Freya, Thunb. Cassiar Trail, ton miles west of Deaso Lake, June 4; Doase Luko, Juno 6. 230 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. rlii Phyciudes Tharos, Dru. Dovil'a Poitage, Lower Liard (long. 126° 10'), July 15, McConnell. Phyciodes Pratensis, Behr. Upper Liard Eiver (lat. G0°), June 26. Grapta Faimus, Edw. Fifty miles below Forty-mile Creek, Pelly or Yukon River, August 7, 1888, McConnell. Grapta Progne, Cram. Lewes River (lat. 61° 55'), August 27. Theda frvs, Godt. Telegraph Creek, Stikine River, May 29 ; Cassiav Tiail, twonty-two miles oast of Telegraph Creek, June 1. Chrysophanvs Ifelloidfs, Bd. Upper Pelly River (lat. 62° 40', long. 134° 30') August 7. Lyccena Sivpiolus, Bd. Devil's Portage, Lower Liaid (long. 12;. ■■■ii 2. List of Diurnal Lepidoptera collected by Mr. W. Ogilcie on Mackenzie • River in 1888.* Papilio Machaon, L., var. i4/ower, the groundmass is seen to be composed largel}' of little shreds •of SI micaceous mineral, probably sericite, which are approximately parallel in position and give to the rock an appearance resembling flow structure. With this is associated a smaller quantity of a colorless mineral Y^olarizing in dull bluish tints and with somewhat undiilatory •extinction, which resembles felspar, but does not show any lines of twinning. The pyroxene crystals are colorless. Cross sections are -eight-sided, showing the development of both prism and pinacoids, with cleavages parallel to both and extinction parallel to the latter. It is biaxial, and longitudinal sections show a single set of cleavages, tive grey granite. -A rather coarse grained, much decomposed, mas- „ ^ ^ The feldspars are so decomposed that it is difficult to determine their character, bnt a considerable amount of plagioclase is present, and probably a still larger amount of orthoclase. The biotite is entirely decomposed to chlorite and epidote. A few small grains of htematite are present in the section. The quartz grains are ranch cracked, and show very uneven extinction, owing to the pressure to which the rock has been subjected. Pelly or Yukon, " No. C." (Opposite Stewart River. See p. 34 b.) Quartoze Biotite Gneiss. — A rather tine-grained red gneiss, showing very distinct foliation. It is composed of quartz, orthoclase, plagio- clase, calcite, chlorite, ilmenite and a little pyrite. The plagioclase is present in rather small amount. The chlorite is a decomposition pro- duct, probably of biotite, and the calcite, of which there is a consider- able quantity, is also a decomposition product. The ilmenite is partly altered to leacoxene. The cataclasic structure is distinctly seen in the section. Upper Pelly Biver, No. 53. (Nine miles above Macmillan. See p. 129 b.) Biotite Granite. — A rather coarse-grained, reddish-grey, massive 1 ock, composed of quartz, orthoclase, plagioclase and chlorite, with a 1^ wifm 240 b TDKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. little ilmonite and pyrite. Both feldspars are much decomposed, being in some places nearly opaque. The plagioclase, which is not so plent i- ful as the orthoclase, is generally better crystallized, and frequently occurs in crystals penetrating this mineral. The ilmonite is partly decomposed to leucoxone, and the chlorite is evidently a decomposition pr duct of biotite. The section is traversed by a little very fine grained granitic vein, showing a banded structure parallel to its walls. Thi^ (|uaitz has been much cracked, nearly eveiy ffrain showing an uneven cxtinctiuu. n eing an uneven APPENDIX VI. METKOKOLOCrlCAL OBSKIiVATIONS. The Meteorological Obsoi-vations hero locorded arc a.s follows:— 1. Observations made aloiig the lino of route, June 1 to Soptonibcr 2. Observations at Telegraph Creek, Stikino Rivoi-, by Mr J C Callbreath, 1881-1886. • • • 3. Observations at Lak' ton, Deaso Lake, by M.-. J. Clearihue, 1878- i. Record of temperatui-e at Laketon, Doase Lake, by Mi-. Robert Eeod, 188(i-1887. The observaUons included under Nos. 2, 3 and 4 are unfortunately very incomplete. They rcfo; to the winter months only, and in j(onoral the minimum reading of the thermometer alone is' recorded The thermometers employed were, however, instruments of good class y well-known nuxkers, and in view of the paucity of information lici.nn- on the region, it has been considered useful to print them 1 am ,ndebto.l (o Mr. Callbreath for tho opportunity of extracting tho obsorvatiorn m; '!e by bim from his dinrios, un.l to Mr. Reed for communicating the tbird and fourth series of observations Tho ohscrvauons forming the fir.;.t purt of this appendi.K were recorded "y Mr. J. MeLvoy during the progress of oui- journey. (J. M. 1). i k; Ui! , mm igwflf?F^T38^BI^EBHBS1 242 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Fi';'#' I |l O OS go m " C c .-. B •C op o C fl ■ oK^ joeatntuadniaj, Ipnojo JO pniji pnop JO •?iuy ■pujM JO esjo^ .. _ ^. s k4 a/^M<* •, O** 'm i^ P c.-'m c- « r*^ 5 *• — !^ Ss •= 3 3 22.~ a t. o c - 5 tr ^* 1-3 c c - m r-f— 1-1^ IM •■«»,' N . 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'~j rti'n o ■■ti.„.;s-A'-->„\ Zi M»<0300MCV = ".OtO=-.0 = 30 -™ ^ M .— Oii-H-jO =0c»-3«0 •^™»— «P0 »— 'pHf— »•-.« • f.^^^ 247 B 1 •; F! . s . a > . . a a •?a :iR :S^ 2 3 a s a a 2. =. 3. '. ■£ tr~ -^ I'-'i- l-l-I-'' : 41 ■H ■ o •//J -z ■'-•<', ••o 'T. J. l-. i? . 1^1 'S • ^ •fe s? '^?S s_- 7i 5? S :2 ."? '' ,^' ; \ ; ; O •O'C ; ; • iC ; ; S -IS : 3H32 329383=2=32=2232 235 =2353 3322333 a £.a d :: &■<{ S8S5=8S :Jf. •»i ■ a .a a a SS. S " -J — >. X ^3 ^ -3 ija •; 05 i I -^ r !s: : -5 H .2 .a^ a u : M.S : a: "is ;S a a ,-3 it*' 'i\ ft 1 248 b TDKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. (2) OBSERVATIONS AT TBLEGKAril CREEK, STIKINE RIVER, D. C, lilRINC; I'ORTIONS OF THE VBAI£8 1881 TO 1880, UY ,1. C. CALLBRBATII. > il > si Date. as Rkuarks. Datr. 'c a Remarks. si - H H 0 1881. o 1 1881. Oct. 2 23 Coldi'st ni(?ht yet. Dec. 21 2 3 Heavy frost lost night. 22 10 i- 'I 8 ■"i2 23 -2 SI 7 First ice running on river. 24 -2 10 14 2i 15 11 22 26 -2 12 20 27 —i ' ' ' ■ 13 Little frost la«t night. 28 -2 14 No frost this morning. 29 —7 ,' 15 ■■2V 1882. , : , ''' 16 14 Jan. 1 -4 17 10 2 —17 18 7 3 -14 19 10 4 -13 ,'/ 20 21 5 — 12 ' .'. 21 30 6 5 22 No frost last night. 7 6 23 Weather mild. 8 6 24 ti t* 9 8 25 «« il 10 6 " 26 •1 If 11 8 27 0 p.m. ,450 12 13 28 ""26' 13 Heavy thaw. 29 26 14 ■■■'s' 30 33 17 30 31 23 18 22 Nov. 1 20 19 22 2 32 20 16 '' 3 26 21 7 4 No frost last night. 22 -4 - 5 ■■*32 23 —1ft 6 'Ji 26 -26 8 31 27 -30 9 26 28 Mild. lu 29 29 '"'27 11 24 30 6 12 16 31 13 13 12 2 in. snow on range atTahltan. Feb. 1 ]'l 14 8 2 5 15 -13 3 or 4 in. snow on range at 3 8 •. 16 —17 [Tahltan. 4 15 V 17 —4 7 -1 2») Mild. 8 -0 22 "—Y 9 -12 23 4 Mild all day. 10 -28 24 « 8 in. snow on range at Tahltan. 11 -28 ifi 32 U 20 • 26 34 13 0 27 20 14 0 ^ 28 20 15 —27 2!> 15 m —32 30 111 17 -20 Dec. 1 20 18 9 a.m., —2' • 2 20 19 ....„ ThHwing. ,1 2 20 4 0 21 30 5 4 22 12 , I ft 12 23 -8 7 7 24 -1 8 3 ^5 -2 9 —2 • 2*! 0 10 0 27 ••••<• Mild. 11 -13 . • ,, • 28 5 12 —29 March i 10 . , 13 -20 * 0 -6 14 -18 3 -]fl • . ' \ 15 -4 i ' 4 -22 19 6 6 -13 20 24 (1 10 CAWJON.] APPENDIX VI. 249 B , l:iRIXC; I'ORTIONS TH. 1»ATK. 18«2. March 7 K ii 10 11 12 )3 U l» 16 17 18 1!) 20 22 2:i 24 25 26 27 29 30 31 April 1 2 3 4 I [) 10 11 13 14 16 16 17 20 21 22 •M 2i 25 26 27 28 29 30 1 Alay •^I'l't. del. 3 4 5 7 9 10 11 13 U 15 16 1" i 1« 19 21 23 2» 29 30 1 3 as .- a, ^(2 20 23 7 22 7 6 -6 13 —5 -18 —17 —10 -19 2 15 22 8 15 —8 -12 10 14 10 20 15 14 i 12 22 '• 23 24 24 25 33 . 29 31 i 9 : 30 10 , 11 ! 27 . 16 17 ! 19 I 26 25 26 ; 27 28 34 31 , 33 32 26 33 42 26 3t 30 28 35 38 26 29 2i> Rrmarks. Date. 1882. Oct. 4 6 7 8 10 11 18 14 16 17 18 19 21 28 31 1 2 3 5 Nov. 22 20 2t 19 No frost, till Coldest night of season, bright clear diiv. ; Wind N„ bright and clear all ! day. Wind X. 6 7 8 9 10 n 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 n c a is 30 Deo. 1 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 19 21 :m) 33 36 30 £4 30 3) 32 a5 32 12 14 20 24 15 12 17 18 3 2 22 26 19 24 17 32 30 25 19 2) 20 11 21 — S 22 -10 23 -6 24 6 2J 7 26 20 27 8 28 7 29 o 15 6 7 14 14 14 -1 0 1 11 8 -7 KMARKS. Bright, fine day. Cloudy, I ieht sprinkle rain a.m. " raining a little all day. Fine, clear day, strong wind up river. Cloudy and calm. Rained hard in evo., drizzling all day. Snowing this morn., melting as it fell. Mild and plasant. Ice running in river for first time. Wind up river since noon. Fine, mild day. Mild and pleasant; bright all day ; less than 1 in. snow fell yesterday Mild and calm all day. Overcast, light mist ; little or no ice in river. Calm, mackerel-sky clouds moving up river. Mild and calm all day. Snowed a little. Clear and calm all day. Light floating clouds ; calm and Uiild all day. Commenced raining 2 p,m. Rained ii II night; snowed fori hour after daylight ; cleared off, Mild and pleasant all day; wind up river. Mild ana pleasant; light snow in evening. Bright, calm day. Partly clear. Clear and calm. p.m. Partly overcast a-m , mild, calm, overcawt. Lightly overwisi, calm. Snowed it little this a m. Lightly clouded all day, mild. Overcast, snowing a little, mild all day. Clear and mild all night. Misty, began snowing from ^ !S,E. 4 p.m. Snowed 3 in.; river nearly closed. Lightly overcast. Mild day. Liglit ovcroiist, calm all day. Hazy and calm. Mild and calm. Mild, overca.^t ; It. snowp-m. Lightly overcast, mild and calm. Partly clouded ; snow squalls. Cold all day; wind down river. I 250 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLLMBFA. i- iif U. I m Date. a w Remarks. Datk. il II Remarks. 1^ » 18S2. 0 1883.' 0 Deo. 12 -11 Feb. 17 5 Overcast : a little snow. 13 -28 CutHnu N. wind: not iibove — 20'^allduy. 18 10 Mild and calm ; snowed 2 in. last night. 14 9 ii.m.,— 16== ; 5 in. fine anow 19 7 Calm. alldny. 20 0 Clear and calm. 15 -11 Snowed about 8 inohes^: 21 -3 Clear. 16 6 Little snow during night: 22 10p.m.,5'\ Calm and partly eluuded. growing warmer. 23 -1 17 21 Overciii-t, wind E. 24 9 Cloudy. 18 6 Overcast, ats usual this mild weather. 25 -1 10 a.m., thawing— first thaw of season ■ 19 -4 2t< Xi Thawing: oleiir all day. 22 This evening 33°. 27 .^5 Thawed all night. 23 ■"26" 28 ''2 Hright and warm. 24 12 Mild and pleasant all day. March 1 '{) Clear. 25 10 a.m.. 31". 2 Warm dav. 2d "23 Misty, sprinkle of snow, mild 3 '"2K Wind N.E. and calm. 4 U Bright, clear. 27 12 Clear, mild and pleasant all 5 11 Bright. day. 6 7 Clear. 28 5 Clear; 15 in. snow on Tahltan range. 7 15 Clear, warm day: thawing in shade. 29 -10 Clear and calm. 8 21 Clear, bright: strong wind ui> 30 -14 li tt •» river. 31 -4 Mild and calm. ') 28 Clear. 1883. 10 18 Clear iind warm. Jan. 1 4 tt it kt 11 12 2 0 12 26 3 9 p.m.,— 3^ l.'{ 26 4 8 a.m..— 11''. 14 24 5 -it)' Clear; wind N. Oct. 13 Weather mild. 6 -20 Clear and calm. 14 ti .( 7 -16 Mild all day ; clear. 15 " " overcast. 8 0 16 Very mild. 9 -6 Overcast. 17 Mild and calm. 10 8 a.m.. 50. 29 About 12° : weather moderate ; 11 ■■"s" little ice running in river. 12 -11 Mild and calm all day. Nov. 1 -5 Coldest night of season ; much 13 -9 ice in river. 14 8am.,6^ 0 5 9 p.m., 8''. 15 ■■"o" Calm. 3 4 ]0p.m.,.?2°. 16 -17 Clear and c ilm ; cold all day. 4 27 Snowed 1 in. : mild day* 17 —24 3 26 2 •' last night. 18 -18 " •' " growing milder. 6 27 19 -8 7 16 20 •> Mild and calm. 8 10 21 17 Calm all day. 9 15 Snowing lightly a.m. : p.m. 22 24 Lightly overcast, squally. clear 23 16 Mild and squally. 10 —3 Lightly overcast. Mild, nazy. calm. 24 10 Misty overhead ; calm. 11 6 25 5 Calm; lightly overcast. 12 8 a.m., —4' ; clear, calm. 26 -2 Lightly overcast and calm. 13 '-i2" Moderating: calm. 27 11 i).m.,0°. Mi d and calm. 14 — '.i Clear and calm. 28 ""»' 15 10 Mild and calm, 29 10 ' partly overcast. 16 12 Clear ; wind down rivor. 30 -3 17 8 a.m., 27° : river closing fast • Feb. 1 Weather milder. 18 '■'25" Mild and overcast. 2 10p.m.,— 24°; clear. 19 26 3 .... 11 p.m., -22'', 10..%)p.m.,-l(;o; clear. 20 28 Clear. 4 21 t • • * 8 a.m., 21°. 5 -is' Lightly overcast ; cold and 22 13 11 clear. 23 —7 (,'lear: N. wind. 6 -10 Clear. 24 -16 ti »« ,( 1 7 -4 2.1 -21) Clear and calm. 8 -3 Lightly overoa,"!. 26 -25 tt t. tt 9 -2 Clear and calm. 27 —27 Clear and calm a.m.; p.m. 10 —4 Clear ; snowed a little. hazy- 11 12 Overcasta.ni. : strong E. wind, clear and calm p.m. 28 -12 Snowed a little last night : clear day. 12 0 Strong N.E. wind ; clear. 29 -U 13 -20 Clear ; N. wind. 30 -:i Mild; overcast all day. 14 -23 Clear and calm. Dec. 1 14 Snowed and rained a littl'- 15 —23 Lightly overcast and calm. to-day. 16 -10 " sprinkling snow. 2 :!1 DAWSON.] APl'ENDIX VI. 25 1 B \ little snow. ialni ; i^nowed 2 in. mrtly (■^>u^lo(l. iwing— first tlmwDt' n (lay ; thawing in it; strong wind ui> ' ovoroast, [iloi. weathcrmodcratc ; running in river, lit of season ; much ghtly ii.m. ; p. ro- ast oil day. rain«d a littU as s *^ 1 1 ll Datk. .§ i; Ukmarks. ! a a Datk. t-, Rkmaiiks. 188:?. ° 1884. 0 lice. 3 <) Hazy, calm. Mild. Mild. Feb. 10 -18 Clrar and t-alm . 4 9 11 -18 1, .. •* 5 Irt 12 -17 II 11 .1 fi —10 Calm, lin/y. mild. 13 -15 11 «. ,, 7 8a.in.,^2°; snowed 1 in. last 14 -9 II *, *. last night. 1 1:5 C ilin and clear. 1 ;5 -21 Calm 8 16 -19 Strong north wind : clear. !» 1^ Misty; snowed a little- 17 -21 Strong N.E. wind: It. snow; 10 2(1 Winds overcast. 11 26 Cleir and calm. • 18 -20 Clear; N. wind. 12 21 Clear. 19 -;!0 Clear and calm; coldest night 13 7 Mild all day. '2 Snowed a hfde all day. ' of winter. 14 •JO -25 ('aim. 15 9 a.m., 22*^; snowed a.m.: 21 -25 Clearand calm; p.m. overcast. rain p.ui. 22 -5 Snowed a little. 16 9 a.m., 42'^: clear: strong S- 2i 10 Lightly ovcrciust; little snow wind. 24 4 1 Strongs, wind; thawing. 17 9am...34'. 25 24 18 Ba.m-,2i ; little .■ 20 Clear. 24 9 a.m , -11 . .1 20 Overcast: strong NK. wind 25 -if Clear and calm. ' all day- Clear ; X. wind. 26 -14 I 4 -2 27 —9 Clear. 5 -7 28 —26 Clenj : N. wind. Clear and calm. 6 -8 29 -ao n 10 30 — 3J 8 6 Clearand calm. 31 ■••••• 6a.m.,— V; wind X.E. 37 Strong southerly wind: thaw- deal of ice running. ing. SO 12 Much ice running: mild to-day. 17 9 Clear and calm. 31 12 Dry, mild and clear. 18 0 Hazy, calm. Nov. 1 7 Clear : coldest night of season 19 -10 Clear and calm. so far. 20 0 Partly overcast. 2 14 Lightly overcast : miM and 21 14 Mild and ha/.y : a little snow. pleasant. 22 20 Cle rand calm. ;? 11) Mild and pleasant day. Snowing this a.m. 23 22 Mild all day. | 1 2i 24 20 t. »i *. 5 30 .Snowed 2 in. last night; thaw- 25 23 Snowed about 2 in. last night. ing this morn. : snowatThaN 20 5 N.E. wind. , tan range nearly 1 ft. deep. 27 -17 Clear and calm. t) 21 Clear. 28 -20 , 7 28 29 -21 Clear ; wind up river. ' i 8 29 . 30 —5 Thawing all day : 10 p.m., t'ft'^. 9 k9 lei). 1 -5 Snowed 4 in. last night ; strong 10 30 N.E. wind. i 11 32 Snowing at noon : turned to 2 —19 rain and sleet. 3 -21 12 3S Raining- 4 —5 U 32 Clear; no ice in river. 5 -7 Clear. ' 14 24 Clearand calm- 6 —5 '■ and calm. 15 14 7 —7 " strong wind down rlvor. Itt 18 Overcast. 8 -15 " and calm. 17 20 Misty and calm ; snowed a <) —•3 •1 .1 II little in evening. .^^ Vs^ -■V.W. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 ti4i|21 |2.5 ,50 "" IM ^^= 1^ 1^ 12.2 1.1 l*^^ — MJ& \25 |l.4 ,.6 ^ 6" ► Flioliographic Sciences Corporation 33 VtkST MAIN STRUT WMSTM.N.Y. 14SM (716) •72-4903 ) ^52 \i YUKOM DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Datf. 1»M. ^'ov. IS •.'II Jl ■:3 ■a ■3 JA ■SI 90 Dec. 1 m,': ri. '■' I m -lull. 1A 17 18 lit n 22 23 24 2^ 2H k7 28 99 SI .1 •M S3 32 22 21 11 13 Irt U JO 26 X> KU 31 .1 30 4 24 .S 24 () 20 < 8 ao 9 21 10 21 11 12 12 7 IS 3 14 S 15 -15 4 » 10 11 lit 13 14 15 16 17 1« 111 20 21 22 24 2t 26 2B Kkmarks. Date. -16 —4 -8 -12 —15 -20 -20 -10 -i -15 -22 -22 — i:t -20 -14 —7 — 3 -« 5 -6 17 -22 -30 -32 -32 -22 — 2« -6 3 111 -6 I) 10 16 Clear. A little enow (luring day. Overcast, ailm. Ilniy andcHlm. Mild •' •• Clear. lluy and oalm. Snowed about 2 in. lait night. Nearly clear. IIar.y. Rained hanl all day. Clear a.m. ; uloudcd and rain ingp.m. 8 a.m., .34°: 1 p.in.i raining; 1 S p.in., cleared. Clear. Snowed about 2 in. tkis eve. I Cleor, I Misty and cloudy : wind S,W. : 10 a.m., 42". I Clear and calm. I Lightly overcast. i Clear. I Clear ; wind down river. I Clear. Lightly overcast. Clear : N. wind. ! Clear: N. wiml ; below —12° nil day. Clear. Strong easterly wind. Clear ; strong wind down river; crossing on ice to-day. Clear: N. wind. Strong; N.W. wind a.m. calm D.m. Liitle wriiHl. Overcast. Clear- «• Clear, strung north wind. I'lenr. Clear and calm* .. ., *, Lightly overcitst, Calm anil ha/.y. Lightly ovurous:. Partly clear. Overcoat: snowing. Mild and calm. .Snowed 4 in. lust night: light suow to lUy. Clear and colder this morning. 10 p.m.. —16'' : below zero all any. 1886. ^an. .30 31 Peb. 1 t 3 I 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 2i 24 25 26 27 28 March 1 S 8 4 5 0 7 8 » 10 II 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 2^ 2(5 80 Clear. N- wind, iind calm. Itaxy : light snow hut night Calm, misty. Snowed about 3 in. last night ; clear and calm, llaxy. calm. Riinodall p m. Mild. April B a II H 19 22 25 30 11 10 -2 — » -16 -5 10 10 13 14 20 31 »1 2 4 -9 -16 -15 —5 19 29 20 20 V7 12 32 30 26 20 10 10 22 38 .34 16 16 21 26 24 21) 34 22 12 12 "20" 10 16 32 20 34 .iO i3 18 22 Rkmarka. LIvht snow. Mild and calm- Calm Ligt.tly overcast. Overcast, calm. ., •* Cloudy ; E. wind. Clear and calm. Calm and overcast. " •• misty. Clear and calm. Uazy '• " It. mow !■ eve. Clear 10 p.m., 1.5^ Clear and windy. " " calm. •I II I, Overcast. Thawing in ihade at noon. Heavy thaw all day. Clear and calm. Clear ; thawing all dajr. Wind N.E. Sleet thii p.m. Clear ; maximum temp. 40° id shade. Clear and calm. Clear all diy. Clear and calm. Lightly overcast : clearing. Oven-ast, oalm; snowing iit 2 p.m. Raining hard. Overcast, calm. Murk>. calm. Snowed a little this evening. Clear: strong S.W. wind. Snowing all day. 8 in. snow fell yesterday : lad night clear and calm. Clear. Clear : heavy thaw. Clear and calm. 10 p m., 2K'^. Clt^iir and calo Mo frost last night : cloudy : strong wind up river. Clear; witiii up river. Warm : S. wind all day. Overcast in morning; ram- ing p.m. ^ , ,. Rained and snowed most "i night; 2 in. wont off tliu p.m. ; bright. Fruet last iiight. Clear. :I0 Cloudy. No I'rost lost S.W. wind. night : utmni! ir-' K. DAWMN.] APPENDIX VI. 253 B Rkmabks. low. id calm. oTcrcaDt. It. calm. ; E. wind, nd calm. id overcast. ' misty, nd calm. ' " It. mow Ib ctc. ,15<>. nd windy. " calm. II f> It. « in shade at noon, thaw all day. nd calm, thawing all day. i, .4 •• i.E. lis p.m. ^„ . maximum temp. 40° in 9. nd calm. II dny. ml calm. ' overcast : clearing. It, calm; snowing at hard. St. calm. calm. . a little this evening, strong S.W. wind, g all day. ow fell yesterday : laft clear and calm. heavy thaw. nd calm. nd culm. . 4 —2 a little. 20 10 Ilii«y p.m. clear. 5 22 •' 2 in 27 12 riuar and calm. n 34 Rained all night ; snow in e w. 28 10 Hazy nnil calm. 7 22 Clear. 2' 31 Snowing On. ra. , p.m. thawing. 8 18 uiisty. 30 28 0 in. Hiiow tVII during night. 9 20 Itlowing a ealo ; .«nowi'd *> in. ; D.o. 1 7 Cluur, calm. driftinifhadly. 2 -2 10 -2 Clear; evening < ! 18 Overcast ; p.m. snowing. £« 10 Thawing: raining in evening .3 ! 28 t'lciudy. 27 .30 4 1 20 Overcast. 28 2H Cloudy. 6 I 14 Ilaty anl of day. •lull. 1 -1 Snowo I2in.; strong wind up R. 13 1 24 254 B YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISn COLUMBIA. Datk. Ii I I 18M. ; ^ i Mar. U :«) \ Huuvy llinw. II ■.'7 ' Wind NiK. ; khowciI 1 in IH , 4 Clear; wind N.K. 17 , -4 i!» ; 12 •J0\ 10 i 23 I H Cloudy iii««( ol day. 'Si IH I Clear : t'rce/Inc in (bade. 2*1 20 Strong .N'.W. wind: thawing. 27 2ii Wind up rive' : tiinwing. 29 : No froj't: cloudy. .W 28 rulm. ;il 2S April 1 :«) <1verciM frurt ; ovcrcnrl and t'ong}'. 8 I No IroKt. 5 I ao ' Rrmakkm. Clear. No front. Clear. No fiogt. Clear. Clear: oloiidcd up in evoninv. No fnwt. Front laat ninlit. Nofruiit la«t niRht. Finished plou|(hing. I'ack-train oflrio raiiKC. Canoes arrived to-day. BA8B LAKK, U.f., DUKtNT. I'nKTIOSS ol' TIIK YKAKS 187X TO 1882, UV Mil. .1. CLKAHintl- ai 7« B£ f •- 'it t5s x§ .=1^ c lATM 1« 1878. c Nov. 1 II s.w. 2 0 s.w. 3 l.H s.w. 4 22 N.W 5 0 s. 6 0 s. 7 •Jf) ,<^ 8 U J»»i^ « 0 J*;, 10 0 ,<, 11 14 1 N.W 12 10 N.W 18 10 N.W 1* 12 N.W 16 10 N.W Ifl 14 X W 17 IH .N.W 18 IS S.W. Mrong 10 0 ><^ 'M 1) ,<^ 21 20 ,< 22 In N.W. 23 10 N.W. 24 20 S.W. 25 10 S.W. 26 18 s.w. 27 s w. 28 in w. 23 111 w. 30 12 w. D«o. 1 2 ^ s.w 10 P.W Kk.mmiks. .Mild undeloud>. Mild and clear. Kiiinintr. Heavy miowfall. Mild and clear. Mild and o!oudy. Mild: ! «l •* M I .Snowing p.m. i M!lil,bngDt and clear, { heavy mow at night. I Bright and clear. 1«78. IKC 4 'i 6 7 H 0 10 11 12 13 14 i:. 10 17 IS 10 21 22 S3 24 25 W 27 28 29 SO i :n I 1879. Jan. 1 M BE •s* « J) 12 II 0 12 ^ - «f .S B — s N.W. N.W. N.W. ItKMARKS. 1 N.W. -H N.W. 12 S.W. 111 S.W. IS S.W. 21) .<.w. 4 w. -4 N.W. 1 N.W. 14 S.W. 21 ,<, 20 «!, 12 w. It w. -2 N.W. -1 N.W. -H N.W. -4 N.W. -0 N.W. -7 S.W. -4 ii.W. -H N.W. -10 N.W. -1 N.W. Ilright and clear. I'loudy. l/ike froseii in fMiii of town. Bright and clear : skating on ice. First arrival from McHiimeaand Thi- bcrt Cr. on ice. First arrival from head of lake on ice. I'loudy. Heavy snow p.m. '• " lastniKhi. Bright and clear. Snow. Bright and clear. Cloudy. Very mild, bright iiikI clear. Heavy thaw ; liilo' open in places. I 'loudy. Bright and clear n II ,1 OAWtON.] APPENDIX VI. 255 B loiided up in evoiiinic. ratiKC. rriveii to-Usiy. ONH ) HI 11 12 i;t 11 10 16 17 IH I'.t 20 2\ •►> J4 26 JiJ 27 28 29 .'il 1 el). 1 4 10 ti 0 -22 -211 -32 —36 -30 -22 f) U 4 S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. . N. , N. light —2 N. — « .N. —4 »N_ -r. ,< —s .\. ^•# .\. -IS .\. -24 ,<, -20 j"*!^ «> ,<^ 10 ,«s. 12 j"<_ 12 s. 10 . 1 =11 6 10 10 — « -27 -2» 10 I -1« 11 I -2(i 12 ' — 2u 13 14 -24 -23 ■20 16 -10 17 —19 1^ I -17 l'.» —20 2K Mar. I —8 — .ni. Stormy all day. Strong drifting. Hriglit and clear. I* 11 •• Cloudy. liright and dear. Cloudy. Bright and clear. llrigbt and clear; 8now liMt night. Bright and clear. Storming. Storming: heavy «now last night, liright and clear. 20 -16 X. 21 -25 N. 22 -2rt .\. .^1 -1« .\. 24 -24 N. a — .W N. '» -10 N. 27 -10 \. 3 0 X. . 4 -12 ^• 1 S -23 N. « -12 It. 1 6 N. .H -6 N. >) -4 W. III -18 N. 11 -in S.K. 12 —20 N. Stormy. Bright and clear. Stormy, drilling. Bright and clear. Stormy, drifting. Bright and clear. Snow la«t night. Heavy 8tnrni> snowing, drifting. Snowing and drifting. Heavy wind, drifting. Storming. Bright and clear. n II •• Cloudy, drifting. Bright and clear. « 14 41 Bright and dear : strong wind. Bright and clear, r; 44 I* IS i 10 I 17 i 1> I 10 I 20 1 21 I •>•> ' 28 24 I -^ , 26 27 2s 2!i »l 31 i • Xov.lH 19 20 21 22 23 24 26 27 2H 2U 30 Dec. 1 2 3 4 6 6 7 8 9 I 10 i 11 13 13 II 13 10 -21) N. 4 X.W -II , X. -1!) 2 N. X. N. S. N. Bright and clear. Stormy. Bright and clear. 2 10 2 10 I X.W. 2 N.W. 0 N. IH Ix.W. 22 I X. 22 N. 24 : 14 1 2 N. 4 ! X. 12 , N. 14 X. 4 14 13 N. S. 11 —12 X. —20 N. —28 N. • -30 X. -22 N. -21 X. ' -10 X. 1 -10 X. 1 -10 I X. —83 1 N. —31 X -31 —30 -22 -14 —24 -12 N. X N. N. X. X. X. -26 ; N. N. X. N. iJ: N. N. N. N. S. 17 -;i7 18 -28 10 -3.' 20 —22 21 -28 22 —32 23 -22 24 10 26 8 26 -18 27 -42 Storming. Very mild, flirong wind. Snowing. Bright and clear. Snowing and drifting all d'ty. drifting, cloudy. Light snowfall. Cloudy: clear towards evening. Cloudy. I* Cloudy; north wind in evening. Mild: lake partially frn/,en over. Light snow: lake frozen over. Cloudy : light snow. Bright and clear. Cloud:^; slroDK wind. Storming. Clouily. Bright and clear. Cloudy. Bright and clear. Bright and clear; high wind. Cloudy and storming; strong wind. Cloudy and storming; ftrong wind. Cloudy and storming; Mtrong wind. Cloudy and storming ; strong wind. Cloudy and storming ; strimg wind. Cloudy and storming; Dtrong wind. Cloudy and storming ; Ntrong wind. Bright and clear; strong wind. Cloudy. Bright and clear. Cloudy. Bright and clear. Cloudy; light snowatonn. Bright and clMr. 256 B YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLI'MBIA. Datk. 1879. Deo. 28 29 30 31 1880. Jnn. 1 2 ;j 4 6 A 7 8 » 10 11 12 IH 14 15 Ih 17 18 19 2it 21 22 23 24 25 2t» 27 i8 21> 30 3! Fob. 1 2 .H 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 B a e & -11 -3 — •» -18 -27 -;i3 -22 -29 -45 -43 -43 —46 —14 -45 -14 -40 —30 -28 -2.^ -41 -2t> -10 8 4 0 -12 -10 -iW —40 —iti -14 —4 12 H lU 10 '^4 0 4 -14 -22 8 2 -Itl N. N N. N. N N. N. N. N. N. N. N. N. N. N. N. N. N. N. N. N. N t^. S. 8. N. N. N. N. S. S. s s. s. p. s. N. RitllARKS. S. Brisht and clear. Cloudy. Snowing and driftioK. BriRht and clear. * Cloudy, drifting. Bright and ;lei>.r ; at noon — Jto. Bright and Clear. Cloudy. Brij (» N. Mar. 1 -34 N. Cloudy ; S. wind p.m. Cloudy. Bright and clear. Cloudy ; light snowfall. Bright and clear. Ileiivy^ piiowgtorm. Siorniing all liiy ; heavy 8nowM Iniit night. licHvy BnowKtorm lust night. Bright and clear. Bright and clear; high wind. Bright and clear. Cloudy, mild, flight wind. Bright and clear. Bright and clear ; 4 p.m., H at -39 -34 -32 -34 -14 —22 -12 14 8 -27 29 1« 30 21 Dec. 1 4 2 -14 3 -15 4 -« 5 -10 0 -20 7 -19 8 -14 9 -13 10 2 11 12 \'i 6 13 4 14 15 16 —8 16 -14 12 0 (I 12 26 14 14 14 8 II 'J2 18 13 7 IS 13 15 10 N. N- N. N. N. N. 8. 8. N. KKMARKal. N.W N.W, s. s. S. .*<. N. N. N. N. h'. S. s. N. N. \. N. N. •N. «|j n'- N. 8. s N. N. N. N. N. y. N. N. N. N. S. S. s. n. N. Bright and clear ; 1 p.m., -2<^. Strong wind; bright and I clear ; 4 i>.m:. —8°. ! Strong wind : bright and clear; 4 i>.m., l-*^. Bright and clear ; 4 p.m., —16°. Bright and clear ; 4 p.m., —12". Bright and clear ; 4 p.m., -°. Storming all day; 3Co above %ero. Cloudy ; strong wind lost night. Brignt and clear ; stroim wind. Bright and clear. Mild ; lig'at snowfall. ,1 *• •* Mild. Very mild ; raining. Very mild ; heavy nun. Heavy full of snow. Very mild. Mild, cloudy. i Mild; mining in eveniim. I .Mild ; rain. I Mild. .. 1 Mild ; summer weather. 1 Froiity,bi'uutiful morninu Cloudy; flue weather. Clear and briftht. Cloudy: light snowfall. Cloudy. Cloudy and mild. Cloudy and mild; simw- ing in evening. Cloudy. Bright and clear. . Cloudy; lake parlinlly frozen. , , High winds ; ice broken up. Strong wind. . Bright and clear ; hmu wind. . .. ,, Cloudy ; lake partnilly frozen. , , Cloudy : light »now ; lake frozen over. Cloudy ; high wind. Bright and dear; croSKeU lake on ice. Bright and clear; stroni! wind. . , Cloudy ; strong wind. Cloudy; drifting; lifht snow. Storming and drifting. Light (now. Cloudy ; drifting. ht and clear: i p.m., l". HK wind; bright and ijir ; 4 i>.in:, —8". ng wind: bright and iir; 4 p.m., I'i^. :hf ana clear ; 4 p.m. , 16°. ;ht and clear; 4 p.m., 12". [ht and clear ; 4 p.m., miru all day ; SO" 4>ve '/.ero. idy ; strong wind liut Kht. ;ht and clear; stroiiR ind. tht and clear. J ; lia'dt snowfall. d ; mining in evoniiiif. d; ruin. (1 ; summer weather. Kty.bi'HUtiful morniiiR iiilv; tine weather, iiriiiid brijEht. idy ; liRht snowfall. idy and mild ; suuw- iK in evening. ■h winds ; ice broken I'- • 1 )nB wmu. . iht and clear ; hiRu ind. . .. ,, idy : lake partntll) T,7.un. , , iidy : linht snow ; liike Dzen over. ndy : hiiJh wind. ihtamli'leari croBKeJ ke on ice. ht and clear: slronK ind. . , ady: strong wmJ.. ady ; drifting ; liKi'i tow. ininganddTiftuiK. udy ; ilrifting. OAWION.] APPENDIX VI. 257 B .1-^ H Datk. ¥ Rrmarkh. 1 Datk. bS. Rkmarks. s§ ft-S Si ©■s 0 1881. 0 1880. Dec. 17 -15 N. Bright and clear. Feb. 19 -1 N. Heavy snow-storm ; drift- 18 -12 N. Bright and clear; south ing. Briftht and clear. wind p.m. 20 -29 N. 19 -11 N. Bright and clear ; 8 p.m., 21 - .1 .. 24 -15 N. Brijtht and clear. '•"2 -21 N. 1* «t *t 1 2") -X! X. 23 -21 N Cloudy. 2fi -iiH X. •1 II II 24 —13 N Bright and clear. 27 — ri X. Cloudy. 2.'i -14 N. i« *. tt 28 -6 X. Cloudy and drifting. 2fi -21 N. Bright and clear ; very .Mar. 1 —5 X. Bright and clear. heavy wind. o 0 g. •• II II 27 -21 X. Bright and clear ; very 3 6 S- Cloudy; light snow. heavy wii.d. 4 6 s. Cloudy. 28 -22 N. Bright and clear ; very 5 4 8. Cloudy 1 snowiall p.m. heavy wind. 6 1« 8. Cloudy. 29 -16 N- Cloudy. 7 4 N. '• »0 -10 N. Bright and clear. Light snowfall. 8 2 N. Cloudy ; snow storm p.m. :U « S. 9 2 i: Cloudy ; high wind. Bright una calm ; light 1S81. 10 0 .Ian. 1 14 s. snow in evening. 2 1« 8. 1 11 8 S. Light snow. 3 14 s. Light iinowfall. 12 6 X. II .1 4 4 8 i* .. 13 -18 8. Cloudy. 5 5 N. Light xnuwfall ; cloudy. 14 18 X. Cloudy ; light snow. 6 6 N. • 1 '• 1 I'* 17 8. Cloudy. 7 4 8. tt .t ' K 12 X. •1 8 9 8. Bright and clear. 7 N. Snow-storm ; drifting. 9 4 8. Cloudy; snowfall last 18 6 X. Cloudy. night. 10 12 8. Light snow ; heavy thaw. 10 -2 N. Windy; drifting. 20 24 8. Spring weather. 11 -17 xV Bright and clear. Vrlitht and clear ; 5 p.m., 21 24 8- 12 -24 N. 22 2U 8. — 2r)0. 25 -2 8. 13 —29 N. Cloudy. 24 8 8- Bright and clear. 14 —28 N. linght and clear. 25 — tj s. 7i II 1. l.i —2(1 S. Cloudy; noon, 0°. 2rt 0 8. II It II Hi 17 2 2 8. 8. (Unudy. Bright and clear. 27 above »uro. js. Cloudy; light snow. IS 2 8. ", .. t. 28 •• 8- 8now-Htoriu ; drifting ; lit 15 8. Cloudy ; light snow. strong wind. 211 2 8. Cloudy. 29 •» X. Snowstorm ; drifting ; 21 10 8. Bright and clear. strong wind. 22 20 8. • loudv. 30 M X. Ruin in evening. 2.i 10 8. , Bri|(bt and clear. ,, .4 .t Cloudy. 31 II X. 24 0 -20 -17 8- N 8. .May 2'. 30 .June 4 Cret^k commenced to rise. 25 Highest water. First trip of steamer to .2(i 27 -1 N. lirijcht and clear. Thibert Creek. I'H -28 N. Very cold, met lumvier. 29 —30 N. •• t* tt Sep. 27 Oct. 0 Stiiiwt'all in eveniuff. «() -34 8. Cloudy. Light snow tall. 31 -10 N. Cloudy ; light snow ; drilt- 21 ing. •».i Rain. Feb. 1 —2 N. 8nowiiigand drifting. Cloudy. 21 I) -22 N. 211 Very mild. .1 -14 S. SnowiiiK and drifting Nov. 1 ' '2iV "s." Light snow. * heavy Htonn. 2 2 -84 21 -16 22 -40 S3 -8 24 5 25 14 26 8 2/ 10 II S S 8 8 8 8 S.Vf N. N. N. > . N N N. N N. 8. S. S. s. 8. S- N. N. N. N- N. N. N. N. N. N. 8- 8. 8- 8. 8. 8. S. N- N. N. N. N. N N. N. N. N. N. N. N. N. N. N. RlllARKS. Cloudy; snowfall. C'oudy . ^nowt'all ; rain in evening. Cloudy: snowfall. Cloudy, bright and cl<-ar. Drifting. Bright and clear. n 41 !• Cloudy. Strong wind. 8 rong wind ; drifting. Bright and clear. It II I* Cloudy. Rri ht and clear. Drifting. Very heavy drifting and snowing. Drifting. Bright and clear. Cloudy; drifting. Cloudy. Light »t.ow. Heavy snow, drifting. 4S(orm. Bright and clear. Cloudy; weather changed. Strong wind. Cloudy. Cloudy ; strong wind. ('loudy- Bright and clear. Cloudy. Very strong wind ; dri*"!- I ing. ' Heavy wind ; drifting. I I'loud^. I Storming. I Bright and clear. I 11 II 'I I IC II II i Cloudy. I Bright and clear. Very fine. II ii Bright and clear. Very fine. Kain in evening. Cold wind. Bright and clear. ri II II High wind. Very cold wind. brii(ht and clear ; ttronK wind. Bright and clear. Drifting ; cold wind. .1 • II II Bright and clear. Heavy storm; snowiiiR and drifting. Heavy tall of snow. Storming; snow. Cloudy. Heavy snowfall all day. DAWtON.] APPSMDIX VI. 259 B idy ; inowfall. idy . hnowtall ; rain evening. i(iy : snow fall. Illy. ;ht and oli-ar. mg wind ; drif tinr tht Hnd oloar. Datk. Jl Mi 1^ ig la's H 1882. o .Mar.28 -r N. •^ -39 N 30 -S9 N- »l -20 N. April! 2 N. 2 2 N. 3 5 N. 4 11 N. 6 11 N. 6 14 N. 7 12 N. 8 15 N 9 12 N. 10 ao H. 11 -1 S. Remarks. Bright and clear. •I •> High wind ; drifting. Cloudy ; drifting. CIcudy. High wind : drifting. Cluudy. •I light snowfall all day. Fine day. Raw, cold wind. Cloudy. Bright and clear. Cloudy; cold wind. Mi Datb. as 'i £ 1^ iie S"? fi W2. 0 Apr. 12 -2 s 13 -S 14 14 8. IS 23 S- 16 27 8. ; 17 20 8. 18 20 8. 19 23 N. au 7 8. 21 22 W. ' 22 24 8. 23 2 8. N. 24, 7 8. RSMARKS. Cloudy ; cold wind. Snowing and storming. Snowing in evening. Cloudy : cold wind. Cloud.v ; storming in eve. Storming : cold wind. Bright and clear. Cloudy ; light snow drift- ins. Bright and clear. f (4.) KBOORI) OF TBMFBRATURIi) AT LAKETTON, DBAHH I.AKE, B. C, DURINti POBTION8 OP THE YEARS 1886 AND 1887, BY MR. ROBERT RBED. y heavy drifting and lowing. fting. (ht Hiid clear. Lidy ; drifting. idy. lit eii.ow. Lvy snow, drifting. rm- (ht and clear. y strong wind ; dri''t- g. ivy wind ; drifting. idy. rming. tht and clear. [ht and clear. 4 11 II h wind. y cold wind. (ht and clear ; stroiiK ind. iht and clear. fling; cold wind. ,1 ■ ' 11 II tht Mid clear. ivy storm; snowing [id drifting. tvy tallof snow. rming; snow. udy. ,vy snowfall all day. 9 i "; t' 1 " B i a i 3 -n 5 •** O 1^ a S Hatk. a s ■s 1 Dat 3 1 : Datk. B i Date. a £ 'S % V g \ s g a f, , s i H H 1 H 1 ^ 18S6. 0 1886. 0 i 1887. 0 1887. o Ndv. •J».... -14 ; Dec. 22.... -30 Jan. 23... -30 Feb. 26.... -40 21.... -21 23.... —44 24. . . . -28 27.... -30 22.... -41 1 24.... -38 25.... -34 28.... —31 23.... -14 ! 25.... -39 M... -29 Mar. 1... — V> 24.... -2 26.... -11 27... —40 2.... -49 25.... -4 27.... -40 i 28.... -61 3... -13 28... -3 28.... -34 29.... -61 4.... -9 27... J Stormy. i 19 29. . . . -43 30.... -52 5. . . . -15 .TO.... -36 81 ., -52 6.... -45 28.... « 31... —36 Feb. 1... -42 7.... -32 29.... 14 2.... —47 8.... —28 30. . . . 7 j 108T. 3.... -66 9.... —15 i»«c. 1.... 6 Jan. 1... -32 4.... -48 10... —41 2.... -4 2... —25 ' 6.... -37 11... -31 3.... -7 3... -13 6... -38 12. . . . -22 4.... 7 4.... -13 7.... —26 13. ... —12 R... 13 5.... -10 8.... -31 14... —13 6.... 12 6.... -23 9 ... —49 15... -7 7.... 12 7.... 8 10. . . . -27 16... -10 8... 3 8.... 10 11... -23 17.... -6 ».... -2 9.... 11 12... —3 18.... —12 10.... 3 10.... -5 13... -31 19.... 2 11.... -1 11.... -• 14. ... -82 20... 2 12.... -5 •2 8 18... -1 21... 18 13. . . . 1 13.... —7 16... -14 22... 25 14... -2 14... -28 17... —33 '■iii... O IS. . . . 7 ! 15.... -36 18... -2 24,... -20 16.... —9 16.... —54 19 . -21 25... —9 Il- (Lake frozen, i -18 1 17.... -32 20.... -82 26... -2 18.... -27 21... -36 27.... 8 ls... . -16 19.... -?8 22... -5 28... 11 !!>.... —10 20.... -29 21... -23 20. . . . -8 21.... -46 24.... -4:i 21.... -6 22.... -89 1 25.... —45 i !■ It >• U- I rt . fe I 'I APPENDIX VII. SUMMARY OF ASTRONOMICAL OHSKRVATIONS BY DR. G. M. DAWSON, EMPLOY KD IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE MAP ACCOMPANYING THIS REPORT. Note. — The angular inHtrumcnt emphtyed was i\ sextant of neven inch radius, Caiy, No. 9H8. Tlio longitudes of places on the map dopend on two small chronometers. Frinlsham, No. ()<)859, antl Arnold, No. I'(J9n, running mean and sidereal time respectively. The tirst-mentioned was employed in taking time in all the observations, and ha« been given double weight in longitude determinations beyond Telegrapli Creek, as it was an instrument of higher class than No. IMJOU, and proved to be extremely trustworthy. The chronometers were rated wherever possible, as shown in the annexed note. No. *MiW ehangcd its rate suddenly on one occasion, in consequence apparently of a flight jar received on Fiidayson Lake, I ut subsequently i-ecovered a satisfactory i-ate. The longitude of the site of Fort Selkirk on the map depends entirely on that brought round by our route from Wran- gell, as we are still in possession of the preliminary plotting only, of -Mr. Ogilvie's Lewes River traverse. (See foot note on p. 276 b.) The chronometers, in their cases, were packed together in a padded leather-covered box, which was invariably handled and transi)orted with the greatest care. Comparisons wore made throughout the jour- ney on every .second day at 8 p.m., apprazinrnte local mean time. (t I rural Note on Rute« of Chronometers, determined at E»quimalt, Deune Lake, Frances Lake ajid Camp near 'ite of Fort Selkirk. !• rodsham, No. 0()859, ninning mean time. Kate (leteruiine 0- 79«» 66' 0" 80 10 40 80 31 40 80 55 30 —2 48 3h. 44m. 061 a. W)° 25' 0" 99 45 10 100 0 0 100 20 0 100 40 10 —2 39 3h. 44 m. 04-5.8. Telegraph Creek, May 29, 1887. Obs. meridian alt. © 108° 6' 50" Index error and eccentricity —2 23 .-. Latitude 57 64 66 Telegraph Creek, May 29, 1887. * h. m. 8. Frodsham, 06850 6 25 39 5 Obn. alt. g. 5 5 26 37 27 51 29 32-5 30 44-5 Index error and ec«:entricity . . •. Frodsham, 06869, fast. . . 99° 0' 60" 98 41 10 98 28 60 98 11 55 97 59 20 —2 42 3h. 44m. 07-28. Telegraph Creek, May 30, 1887. h. m. 8. Frodsham, 06859 6 37 61-6 6 39 51-6 6 41 26 6 43 3-5 6 45 2-5 Index and eccentricity . '. Frodsham, 06859, fust Oba. alt. 5 84° 34' 50" 84 6 30 83 44 56 83° 22' 10" 82 54 0 —2 42 3.h. 43m.56-4s. Telegraph Creek, Stikine Rive» {summary). Diff. in long, between Fort Wrangell a:d Telegraph Creek, by comparing two a.m. seta of observations : 264 b YUKON DI8TRICt'*AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. I 'Il| Frodsham, 06869 1°^ 13' W .: Chron. long, of Telegraph Creek 131 10 20 Latitude adopted r>7 55 58 Note.— By Hunter's surveyed line, continued by that of McConnell to Tele- gr: oh Creek, the longitude, depending on observation point at Wrangell, (lonjr. 132° 24' 00*) is 131° 10' 05". As the chronometers were subjected to excei>- tional conditions while ascending the Stikine by steamer, this longitude is adopted for Telegraph Creek in preference to that resulting from observations. Head of Dease Lake, June 5, 1887. h Frodsham, 06859 . m. s. 6 32 22 6 33 44 6 34 56-5 6 36 2-5 6 37 23 6 38 30 Index error and eccentricity . •. Frodsham, 06859, fast Obs. alU 5 «5° 45' 40" 85 27 0 85 11 0 84 55 2tl 84 37 5 84 21 50 —2 5:^ 3h. 39m. 18.56. Head of Dease Lake, June 5, 1887 1 Frodsham, 06859.... 111. 8. 3 29 34 3 30 38 3 31 59 3 33 45-5 3 34 56 36 8 37 27 38 21-5 Obs. alt. ©. 108° 57' 108 58 108 58 109 0 3 3 3 3 39 25-5 3 3 3 3 3 41 11 42 53 44 14 46 52 47 14 109 109 109 109 109 109 0 1 1 1 1 0 108 59 108 58 108 57 108 56 15" 10 4(1 20 55 5 25 :?(» 15 3,'j 10 30 35 40 Index error and eccentricity . . '. Latitude 58 28 17-:! Head of Dease Lake, June 7, 1887. Obs. merid. alt o 109° 13' 15" Index error and eccentricity —2 1 ••'> .-.Latitude 58 28 6 li. m. 8. Frodsham, 06859 6 56 34 6 57 47 • 6 58 38-5 6 69 40 7 0 40 Index error and eccentricity .-. Frodsham, 06869, fast .. Obs. alt 0- 80° 33' 80 15 80 79 79 2 48 33 —2 30" 20 60 10 25 50 3h. 39m. 17-8S. . 131 10 20 . o7 55 58 McConnell to Tele- at Wrangell, (lonj:. subjected to excei> r, this longitude is ; from observations. 85° 45' 40" 85 27 0 85 11 0 84 55 20 84 37 84 21 •) 5 50 53 .. 3h. 39m. 18.5b. 108° 57' 15" 108 58 10 108 58 40 109 0 20 109 0 55 109 1 5 109 1 25 109 1 30 109 1 15 109 0 35 108 59 10 108 58 30 108 57 35 108 56 40 o •> 58 28 i:-:; 109° 13' 15" —2 vr. 58 28 (1 80° 33' 30" 80 16 20 80 2 50 79 48 10 79 33 25 —2 50 3h. 39m. 17-8s. DAwtoN.] APPINDIZ VII. 265 B Head of Dease Lake (summary). Diff. in long, between Telegraph Creek and head of Dease Lake : Frodsham, 0«85!> 1° 10' 34"-5 Arnold, 9699 1 9 545 Adopted diff. 1 10 20 Note.— Here, and subsequently tliroughout, double value is assigned to Frodsham, 0<5859. . •. Chron. long, of head of Dease Lake »=130° 0' 00" Note.— This longitude depends directly on Wrangell by chronometers. Taking into consideration the corrected longitude for Telegraph Creek, and assuming a mean value as between chronometer longitude and longitude by paced traverse from Telegraph Creek to head of Uoase Lake, the longitude of head of lake is found to be 130° 2' 0", which is adopted. Subsequent longitudes along tlic line of traverse are made to depend fundamently on this position. Adopted latitude, from series of circum-meridian altitudes, .lune 5, 1887, 58° 28' 17" -3. Laketon, Dease T,ake, June 17, 1887. h. ni. s- Frodsham, 06859 1 18 2 Obs. alt. © 93° Tm' 5" 1 21 33 'M 37 0 1 23 35 95 1 30 1 25 44 ' 95 26 30 1 29 5-5 9() 5 20 1 30 2 96 16 0 1 31 56 W 37 45 Index error and eccentricity — -' 19 . •. Frodsham, 06859, fast 3h. 3!»m. 268. h. m. 8. Frodsham, 06859 3 42 31-5 Obs. alt. © 109° 57' 30" 3 43 51 109 57 0 3 45 165 109 56 20 3 46 47 109 55 35 Index error and ^eccentricity 1 50 h. m. 8. _ Fnxlsham, 06859 8 14 2075 Obs. alt © 62° 24' 50" 8 16 10-5 61 56 40 8 17 16-5 61 39 5 8 19 275 61 12 0 8 20 1-5 60 66 50 8 21 1-3 60 36 0 index error and eccentricity —3 9 xlenulting adopted lat from second and third series of observations 58 42 20 By last observation : FrtKlsliam, 06859, fast 3h. llOui. 16». Diff. in long, between Luketon and head of lake by loi'g bearings 3' :V2" . •. Resulting adopted long, of Laketon 130° 5' 32" 266 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Sta. I, Dease River, June 19, 1887. Obs. merid. alt q Index error and eccentricity . .-. Latitude Sta. U, Dease River, June 20, 1887. Obe. merid. ait q Index error and eccentricity . . -. Latitude Sta. £, Dease River, June 21, 1887. Obs. merid. alt. q Index error and eccentricity . . '. Latitude 109° 34' 15'' —2 3 58 56 38-9 109° 13' 50" —2 03 50 7 25-6 108° 49' 45" -2 0 59 19 352 Sta. M, June 22, 1887. m. s. 17 13 19 17 20 18 21 2-25 Obs. alt 0- Frodsham, 06859 10 10 10 10 Index error and eccentricity .-. Frodsham, 06859, fast Lat. for above observation from traverse Diff. in long, between place and head of Dease Lake, Frod- sham, 06859 . -. Ghron. long, of place Sta. U 2, Dease River, June 22, 1887. 50° 38' 40" 51 0 50 51 26 0 51 37 0 —3 1 3h. 36m. 16s. 69° 34' 0" 44 129 18 0 0 Obs. merid. alt q Index error and eccentricity . . -. Latitude 108' 4' 16" 1 57-3 59 42 5-8 Lower Post, mouth of Dease River, June 25. 1887. Frodsham, 06859. h. m. s. . 1 21 35 Obs. alt 0 93° 55' 25" 1 22 46 94 8 0 1 23 25-5 94 15 35 1 24 8 94 23 50 1 25 37 94 40 5 1 26 41-5 94 51 30 1 27 22 94 58 30 1 28 6 95 6 20 1 29 2 95 16 20 Index error'and eccentricity — 2 105 .-. Frodsham, 06859, fast .3h. 32m. 0-8s. NoTB. — This series of observations was not employed in determining long., the sun being too near meridian. lOO" 34' 15'' —2 3 58 56 38-9 109° 13' 50" —2 03 50 7 25-6 108° 49' 45" -2 0 59 19 352 50° 38' 40" 51 0 50 51 26 0 51 37 0 —3 1 3h. 36m. 168. 59° 34' 0" 44 0 129 18 0 108° 4' 15" 1 57-3 59 42 5-8 ... 93° 55' 25" 94 8 0 94 15 36 94 23 50 94 40 5 94 51 30 94 58 30 95 6 20 95 16 20 —2 l(i-5 ... .3h. 32m. 0-8s. I determining long., ,.] APPENDIX VIT. 267 b h. m. 8. Frodsham, 06859 3 19 34 3 20 24 3 21 24 3 22 44-5 Index error and eccentricity By a.m. obsn. and last, with interval of time. Latitude 59 55 567 Oba. alt. © 107° 17' 20" 107 18 60 107 20 40 107 22 5 —1 51 Frodsham, 06859. 107° 107 SO' 10" 29 20 -1 61 55 55 h. m. 8. . 3 37 31 Obs. alt ©. 3 38 30 Index error and eccentricity By a.m. obsn., and this, with interval of time. Latitude 69 Difference in long, between place and head of Dease Lake : Frodsham, 06859 1° Arnold, 9699 1 Mean, (giving double value to Frodsham) 1 . •. Chron. long, of place 128 Long, ascertained by bearings carried through by Dease River 128 .35 10 adopted Sta. I, Carton on Upper Liard River, June 26, 1887. Obs. merid. alt 0 107° 16' 20" Index error and eccentricity _1 58 .-.Latitude 60 1 62 32' 24" 30 40-5 31 60 30 10 Sta. P, Upper Lilird River, June 27, 1887. Obs. merid. alt 0 107" Index error and eccentricity . . -. Latitude 60 6' -1 3 Sta. Y, Upper Liard River (confluence of Frances R.), June 29, 1887. Obs. merid. alt. 0 KXjo 29' Index error and eccentricity _^ . *. Latitude 60 16 30" 58-5 43-7 10" 19-5 35-3 Sta. F, Frances River, June 30, 1887. h. m. 8. Frodsham, 06859... .. 9 10 54 9 11 49-5 9 12 38-5 9 13 25-5 9 14 12-5 9 15 1-5 9 16 21 Obs. alt. ©. 25" 10 16 45 60 0 60 19 . -. Frodsham, 06859. fast 3h. ^5m. 3888. Lat. for above oUn. by traverse 60° 26' 0" • '• Long, by Frodsham, 06869....' 129 11 46 Inuex error and eccentricitv . 47° 47 47 46 46 46 46 30' 17 5 63 41 30 10 - 3 268 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH OOLCMBIA. 'J 105° 105 105 105 53' 0^' 62 30 52 10 51 20 —2 0 27 28 Sla. H, Frances River, July 1, 1887. h. tn. 8. Frodsham, 06859 3 42 45-5 Obs. alt. 0.. 3 44 9-5 3 45 23-5 3 46 12-5 Iniiex error and eccentricity Witli time by last observation and long, of traverse, latitude 00 Sta. W, Frances River, .July 3, 1887. Obs. merid. alt. © 105° 10' 45" Index error and eccentricity — 2 0 .-.Latitude 60 39 151 Note.— Observation fair only. Sta. E, Frances River, .July 4, 1887. Obs. nierid. alt. © 104° Index orror and eccentricit> . '. Latitude (>(i Sta. P, Frances Rivor, July 7, 1887. Obs. merid. alt © lo3° Index error eccentricity . '. Latitude : 01 41' i)0" _•> ir),-s 47 53-4 24' 3.")" _•) 18 i» 25 Cdche Camp, i ranees Lake, near moutb of Finlayson River, July 1 1, 1887 Frodsham, 0ti85S). h. m. 8. 12 45 32 12 46 41 12 48 23 12 49 15 12 60 56 12 62 36 12 54 18 12 56 1 Obs. alt. ©• Index error and ec(;entricity. . •. Froilsliam, 06859, fast 3h CAche Camp, Francos Lake, July 7, 1887. h. m. 8. Frodsham, IWiSoi) 81° 15' 3(t" 81 28 .")(! 81 49 20 82 0 (1 82 20 (» 82 40 (1 83 0 (1 S3 20 II —3 17 ;h. a t7iii. 23m-!". 9 3 35 335 Obs. alt. o--' .. 101° 43' 40' 3 36 32 101 44 25 3 37 19 iOl 44 5(1 3 38 16-5 101 45 0 3 39 26 101 45 21 1 3 40 24-5 101 45 40 Approx. app. nooti 101 45 50 3 43 20 10) 46 .'5(1 3 45 26 • 101 45 10 3IA. DAWSON.] APPiNDix vn. 269 b 105° 53' 0^' 105 62 30 105 52 10 105 51 20 —2 0 CO 27 28 105" 10' 45" —2 0 60 :'>9 lol KH° 41' ;■)(»" —2 15-0 (>0 47 53-4 .... 1(»:{° 24' 3."." -2 l.S (il !> 25 p, July 11, 1S87. .... 81° 15' :{()" 81 28 .")(! 81 49 20 82 0 iff. in long, between place and head of Dease L. by mpiin of two first obsns. Frodsham, 06859 0° 23' 36" Arnold, 9699 0 Mean, (giving double value to Frodsham) 0 . •. Chron. long, of place 129 50" 46 30 10 35 45 30 40 228. 21 22 39 •-'•JO .51-5 85 adopted. ° 46' 30" 34 Sta. P, Frances Lake, July 12, 1887. 01)8. morid. alt. © , 101 Index error ar d eccentricity — 2 . •. Latitude 61 21 7'9 Sta. T, Finlayson Lake, July 24, 1887. Obs. merid. alt. © 96° 53' 30" Index error and eccentricity . — —2 37^6 • •.Latitude 61 40 129 Correction for temp, and pressure, — 6." St. U, Finlayson Lake, 14" s mth of last, July 24, 1887. Frodsham, 06859 9 43 48 Obs. alt. © 36° U' 35" 9 44 47 ' 36 46 25 9 45 40 35 34 0 270 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BBITISH COLUMBIA. h. m. s. 9 46 37 35 20 50 9 47 37-5 m 8 20 9 48 20 34 56 30 9 49 0 34 47 10 Index error and eccentricitv . . 3 ^ . -. Frodaham, 06859, fast 3h 40m OQa St V, Finlayson Lake, July 25, 1887. h. m. 8. Frodsham, 06859 12 51 45 Obs. alt ©.... . 77° 0' 0" 12 52 47-5 77 12 5 12 53 36-5 77 21 50 12 54 25-6 ' 77 31 0 12 65 25 77 42 40 12 56 13 77 52 10 12 57 6-5 78 2 30 12 67 47 78 10 25 12 58 45 78 21 10 Index error and eccentricitv • • ^ a 23 .-. Frodsham, 06859, fast ^ , . ■ 3b. 40m. 46s. Obs. merid. alt g 96° 28' 10'' Index error and eccentricity —2 38 Correction for temp, and pressure, — 6. . •. Latitude 61 40 Oti Sta. V, Finlayson Lake (summary). Mean of last obsn. and that of .Inly 24, reduced to this point, gives, Latitude 61° 40' 0" adopteti. Diff. in long, between place and CAche Camp, Frances Lake : Frodsham, 08859 Arnold, 9699 Mean, (giving double value to Frodsham). . . •. Chron. long, of place 130° Long, of place by traverse between Frances Lake and Pelly Banks 130 Mean of this and chron. long 130 ,'iO' 46 49 28' 28 28 12" 51 5 13".ft 52 32-7 adopted. Pelly River, First Camp, near site of Fort Pelly Banks, July 29, 1887. b. m. s. Frodsham, 06859... ..7 4 59 7 6 46 7 7 41-6 7 8 33.5 7 9 23 7 10 14-5 7 12 17 7 13 15 7 13 68 Obs. alt 0- Index error and eeoentricity • . -. Frodsham, 06859. fast — 70° 54' 30" 70 32 35 70 20 50 70 10 0 69 59 10 69 48 30 69 23 10 69 11 10 69 2 10 —3 22 3h. 42m. 46s. 35 20 50 :^6 8 20 34 56 30 34 47 10 —3 34 3h. 40m. 298. 77° 0' 0" 77 12 5 77 21 30 77 31 0 77 42 40 77 52 10 78 2 30 78 10 25 78 21 10 —3 23 3b. 40m. 46s. 96° 28' 10'' —2 38 61 40 Ot) .gives, 0" adopteti. }: 12" >1 5 [3".5 )2 12'7 adopted. 29,1887. . 70° 54' 30" 70 32 35 70 20 50 70 10 0 69 69 10 69 48 30 69 23 10 69 11 10 69 2 10 —3 22 .. 3h. 42m. 458. OAWMN.] APPXNDIX VII. 271 B Pelly Bivor, First Gamp, Jnly 29, 1887. h. m. 8. Frodsbam, 06869. 57 32-5 58 685 59 46-5 1 11 2 19 3 17 3 58 Obs. alt 0. 40" 0 10 0 Index error and eccentricity . . ■. Frodsham, 06359, fast . . . . 59° 1' 58 42 68 31 58 12 57 56 50 57 43 10 57 33 30 —3 30 3h. 42m. 46b, Pelly River, First Camp, July 31, 1887. b. m. 8. Frodsbam, 06859 12 36 49 12 37 53 12 38 56-5 ■,. ' 12 39 46 12 40 31-5 ^ 12 41 28 12 42 31 12 43 256 12 44 23 Index error and eccentricity . •. Frodsbam, 06859, fast Obs. approx. merid. alt q — Index error and eccentricity . '. Latitude -a ObB. alt g 70° 54' 0" 71 7 0 71 19 30 71 30 0 71 38 40 71 50 40 ' 72 2 65 72 14 0 ' 7:{ 25 20 —3 21 3b. 43m. 428-9 93° 23' 10" —2 42 61 48 59 b. m. 8- Frodsbam. 06859 3 54 7-5 3 55 12 3 56 34 3 67 50 Index error and eccentricity Obs. alt 0.... 93° 21' 50" 93 21 20 93 20 40 93 19 16 —2 42" -5 Frodsbam, 06859. 45 47 48 49 50 50 51 52 53 57.5 1 19-5 10-5 8-5 45 5 25-5 7-5 5-5 Obs. alt. ©• • ■ Index error and eccentricity . . •. Frodsbam, 06859, fast ... . 61° 11' 40" 60 57 5 60 39 10 60 27 56 60 15 10 60 6 46 59 57 50 59 48 6 59 36 30 —3 29 3b. 42m. 458-8 Pelly River, First Camp (summary). Hy last two obsns., witb interval of time : Latitude 61° 48' 82" adopted. *1 272 b YUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Diff. in long, between CAche Camp, Frances L. and place by mean of sets of obsns. Frodsham, 06859 1 22 Arnold,9699 1 21 Mean, (giving double value to Frndshara). . 1 21 . •. Chron. long, of place 131 1 Sta. X, Pelly River, Aug. 2, 1887. 7-5 at) 58 0-5 Obs. merid. alt. Q (fair only). Index error and eccentricity • . . •. Latitude adopted. 92° 30' 20'' —2 44 «1 44 52r> Sta. G, Pelly River (Head of Hoole Cailon), Aug. 3, 1887. Obs. merid. alt. © 91° 48'. 0" Index error and eccentricity — 2 41"5 . •. Latitude 61 50 28 Sta. H, Pelly River (lower end Hoole Caflon), Aug. 4, 1887. h. m. 8. Frodsham, 06859 9 49 41-5 Obs. alt. m.. 9 50 31 9 61 26-5 9 53 8 9 54 41-5 9 55 35 9 56 26 Index error and eccentricity .... 30° 17' 50" 30 30 0 30 42 30 31 5 40 31 27 25 31 40 10 31 52 10 — o 25 .-. Frodsham, 0685!), fast 3h. 40m. 4785 NoTK. — For above obsn., lat. employed determined by paced line from Sta. G 61° 50' 48"-8 Long, by chronometers (giving double value to Frodsham) 132° 1' 51" Sta. B, Pelly River, Aug. 5, 1887. Obs. merid. alt. © !)0° 4' 5" Index error and ecrentricity — 2 45 .-.Latitude 62 10 20 Sta. L, Pelly River, Aug. 6, 1887. Obs. morid alt © (passing clouds, approx.) 89° 2' 15" Index error and eccentricity — 2 54 .-.Latitude 62 24 53 Sta. C. Pelly River, Aug. 7, 1887. Obs. merid. alt. © 87° 67' 10" Index error and eccentricity — 2 54 . -. Latitude 62 40 41 Sta. N, Pelly River, Aug. 8, 1887. Obs. merid. alt. © 87° 12' 10" Index error and eccentricity — 2 41 .-.Latitude 62 46 4 m •5 adopted. 92° 30' 20'' —2 44 til 44 52r> 91° 48'. 0" —2 41-5 61 50 28 30° 17' 50" 30 30 0 30 42 30 31 5 40 31 27 25 31 40 10 31 52 10 — o 25 3h. 4Gm. 478-5 ()1° 50' 48"-8 i:52° 1' 51" 90° 4' 5" —2 45 02 10 20 89° 2' 15" —2 54 02 24 53 87° 57' 10" —2 54 62 40 41 87° 12' 10" —2 41 62 46 4 DAWSON.] APPKNDIX VII. 273 b f»ta. T, Pelly River (6 in. above Macmillan River), Aug. 8, 1887. Frodshaui, 06859 9 31 23-6 Obs. alt. 0 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 32 33 34 li5 35 36 37 38 21-5 25 18-5 7-5 59 39 34-5 9 10" 10 37° 8' 36 55 36 40 50 36 28 20 36 17 10 36 5 35 66 :» 44 Index error and eccentricity . •. Frodsham, 06859, fast NoTK. — Foi above obsn. lat. employed determined by traverse Long, by chronometers (giving double value to Frodsham) 30 0 0 35 36 0 —3 19 4h. Im. 2l>8. 62° 48' 10" 135 44 26-5 Shi. 0, Pelly River, Aug. 10, 1887. Obs. merid. alt. 0 (approx.) 85° 52' 25" Index error and eccentricity — 2 58 .-.Latitude ^2 51 10 Observations near tiic of Fort Selkirk. Three^uarters of a mile below Fort Selkirk, Aug. 11, 1887. h. m. s. Frodsham, 06859.... . 4 1 8-5 Obs. alt. 0 S5° 19' 0" 4 2 0 85 19 40 f ■-■ 4 2 52 85 20 20 4 3 58 ^ , : , . f. 85 21 10 4 5 28 85 22 5 • 4 7 3 85 22 55 4 8 15-5 85 23 30 4 13 17 85 24 2.') 4 14 43 85 23 50 4 16 47-5 85 23 35 4 17 46-5 85 23 0 4 18 38-5 85 22 40 4 19 43 85 22 20 4 20 50 85 21 i{5 4 21 45 85 20 55 Index errc kr ami oppoiitrw*ltv' . . —3 4 Correction for temp. and pressure, — 6." . -. Latitude . . . . 62 47 32 (amp opposite Fort Selkirk, Aug. 11, 1887. h. m. 8. 8 12 7-5 Obs. alt ©••• . . 54° 37' :iO' 8 13 16-75 54 22 30 8 14 2-5 54 12 40 8 14 53-5 54 1 50 8 15 30 53 54 5 8 16 36 53 39 10 18 274 b TUKON DISTRICT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. h. m. 8. 8 17 365 8 18 l(i 8 18 58-5 Index error and ec(»ntricily . 6n 27 0 5:{ 18 0 53 9 10 —2 39 Frodsham, 0685U, fast 4 h. 7m. 428*3 Camp opiKJsite Fort Selkirk, Aug. 12, 1887. h. 7 Frodshani, 06850.... m. 35 38 3J» 40 40 42 43 595 18 10-5 58-5 5 20-5 Index error and eccentricity. . •. Frodsham, 06859, fast . . . , OU. alt. 5 (il° 30' 50' 61 2 30 60 50 20 60 40 10 (>0 .% 5."» 60 17 30 60 2 —2 10 35 4h. 7m. 46 5b Camp opiKwite Fort Selkirk, Aug. 13, 1887. Frodsham, 06859. h. 0 1 1 1 1 m. 58 1 3 4 7 Frodsham, 06859. h. m. 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 8. 46-5 8-5 52-5 33-5 8. 10-5 33 57 7 4*5 Obs. alt Q... Obs. alt Q. 5 7 9 10 10 59*5 12 44 13 32-5 14 39 16 35 17 46 18 44 Index error and eccentricity Correction for temp, and pressure, — 6*7 .'. Latitude 63° 63 63 64 64 84° 84 84 84 84 84 84 84 84 84 84 84 0' 30 50 10 40 0" 0 0 0 0 6' 55" 7 35 8 15 8 25 8 40 9 10 9 0 8 50 8 40 8 10 7 40 7 25 —3 7 02 47 3:"4 b. m. 8. Frodsham, 06859 7 16 305 19 9-5 20 54 22 40 25 16'5 Obs. alt 0 64° 40' 0" 64 10 0 63 50 0 63 30 0 63 0 0 By tlie above series of observations, paired with a.m. series by equal altitudes, Frodsham, 06859, fast 4h. 7m. 47'58 A. es 53 27 0 53 18 0 53 9 10 —2 30 41i. 7m. 428-3 61° 30' 50" «1 2 30 eO 50 20 60 40 10 60 30 55 60 17 30 60 2 10 —2 35 4h. 7m. 46 5b 63° 0' 0" 63 30 0 63 50 0 64 10 0 64 40 0 84° 6' 55" 84 7 35 84 8 15 84 8 25 84 8 40 84 9 10 84 9 0 84 8 50 84 8 40 84 8 10 84 7 40 84 7 25 -3 7 02 47 32-4 64° 40' 0" 64 10 0 63 50 0 63 30 0 63 0 0 4h. 7m. 47'58 0AW*ON,] APPENDIX VII. 275 b Camp opposite Fort Selkirk, Aug. 15, 1887. h. . 1 1 Frodsham, 06859. m. 8. 17 56-5 10 48-5 1 21 41-5 1 23 .32-5 1 26 25-5 1 27 205 Obs. alt ©. 65° W 0" 65 50 0 66 10 66 30 66 50 67 10 0 0 0 0 li. m. 8. Frodsham, 06859 6 55 55 ( >b8. alt. 0 6 57 48-5 6 59 42-5 7 1 37 7 3 29-5 7 5 19 By the aliovo sets of equal alt. obsns. Fro«l8haiii, 06859, fast 67° 10' 0'^ 66 50 0 m 30 66 10 65 50 65 :'•() 0 0 0 (» 4li. 7ni. 46-5.S ('amp opposite Fort Selkirk, Aug. 17, 1887. h. m. s. !• HKlsham, Oeaw 0 30 16-5 0 40 55-5 0 42 35 0 44 16 0 45 56-75 Ol)S. alt. (•■) ■ 57° 0' 57 20 67 40 58 0 58 20 0" 0 0 0 0 Froilsham, 06^59. •? h. 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 m. Ohs. alt 0- S. 7 ;{s 0 10 11 5 12 0-5 13 20 16 30 17 32-5 Index error and eccentricity , Correction for temp, and pressure, — 5-3 . '. Latitude 81° 36' 40" 81 37 10 81 37 20 81 37 5 81 36 30 81 IJ.'i 55 81 35 20 —2 0 62 47 29 Fro«lsham, 0(}859. Obs. alt 0. h. m. s. . 7 36 25 7 38 5 7 39 46 7 41 26 7 43 7 Hy the above series of observations, paired with am. series by equal altitudes, Froflsham, 0<)S50, fust ♦iiiiip opposite Fort Selkirk, Aug. 1/, 1887. < 'bs. merid. alt Altair .• Index error and eccentricity* Correction for temp, and pressure, — 41 latitude 68° 20' 58 0 57 40 57 20 57 0 0" 0 0 0 0 4h. 7ni. 4.'>8. 71° 35' 30" + 1 S 62 47 28-3 * Tl)e adjustments of the sextant were changed here. ™ 276 b TUKON DISTBIOT AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. i W V-- . i 'i Site of Fort Selkirk (suuimary). Reducing the foregoing latitude observationH (taken at two different imintNi to the ruins of Fort Selkirk, we And :— From oba. of 11th 152° 47' 12" adopt«Ml. " " 131h 02 47 12-4 " " "17th 62 47 5> " " 17th (on Altair) fi2 47 8-:i Diff. in long, between CAohe Camp, Francea I., and Camp opp- Fort >Sclkirk, by tlirectly comparing two equal alt. obane. :— Frodshrm, 0685«> 7° 40' 1»" Arnold, 5>61«» 7 41.' 34-5 Mean, (giving double value to Frodaham).... 7 40 57-ri ad«)pt««l. .'. Long, of Camp opposite Fort Selkirk 137 20 (> Or reduced to site of Fort Selkirk 1:57 20 22* Tiower end Lake Laharge, Sept. 4, 1N87. h. m. 8. Fro«l8ham, 06850... 12 20 rA Obs. alt. ArctuniM. . . 48° ."Sg' :50" 12 2'.\ 20 48 21 30 I 12 2'» 35 47 51 40 12 27 18 47 20 20 12 28* 38-5 ' 47 7 30 12 :«) 14-25 40 44 30 Index error and eccentricity +1 2 . •. Frodshaui,! 02 Obs. alt Polaris. ... 122° 46' 10" 12 39 7 122 47 55 12 41 11 I 122 49 20 12 43 35 122 50 55 12 45 44 122 52 30 12 47 38 ■ 122 53 35 12 49 57 122 55 25 Judex error and eccentricity 4-2 50 .'.Latitude f.i 2."> 13 Employing local time obtained from observationH on Arcturus. h. m. 8. Frodsham, 06859... 12 1 Obs. alt. Altair. . . 74° 20' 10" 1 4 28 74 18 25 * The longitude thus determined for Fort Selkirk, depends directly upon Wrangell, and my line of traverse by the Stikine, Dease, Liard, Frances and Upper Pelly rivers. It is that iisc'l on the accompanying map- Since the map has been engraved, and after this Appendix wa-'' in type, a first computation (still subject to possible small corrections) has been made of Mr. Ogilvie's winter observations near the Ulst meridian and of his instrumental traverse from Fort Selkirk to that point. His resulting longitude for Fort Selkirk is 137° 22' 45", the difference between the two independently determined positions being 2216 yards only. It is therefore prob- able that all intermediate places on my line of traverse are correct in longitude within !>iu»ll limits of error. OtWMM.] diflferAnt pointHt 12" adopUMl. 12-4 9 8-:i opp- Fort Selkirk, 9" 34-5 57*5 Rilnptwl. (i . 48° 58' :M)" 48 21 30 47 51 40 47 20 20 47 7 30 4(i 44 30 + 1 •> 3h. 5«m 4()S. 135° 5' 45" . 122° 46' 10" 122 47 55 122 49 20 122 50 55 122 52 30 122 53 35 122 55 25 + 2 56 .. (A 25 13 I Arcturus. .. 74° 20' 10" 74 18 25 ipon Wrangell, and my rivers. It is that nseil ' this Appendix was in has been made of Mr. 9ntal traverse from Fort '° 22' 45", the difference ly. It is therefore prob- longitude witliin ."lutill APPENDIX VII. 1 1 1 1 5 62-5 7 21-5 8 59 10 59 277 b Index error and eccentricity . 74 17 40 ,4 16 20 74 15 10 74 13 10 +1 20 I.4ititude 61 25 0 Kiuployin^ local time obtained from observations on Arcturus. OnSBRVATIONS FOB MaqNETIC VaBIATION. Ma)!, variation obaerveil at head of Deaae l.. Dat» and time. Inly 12, '87,6 a.m..., II 8° 45' compass 3; 34° 36' r"®**" ''^ •^" 6.40 p.m. 308° 18' 273° 30' compass 2' 34° 0' Mag. variation observed opposite site of Fort Selkirk. Lat. 62° 47' 30". Long. 137° 20' 6". II II II True bearingi Date and time. of object | Mag. bearing. Aug. 12, '87, 4 p.m 169° 27' | 134° 15' compass 2 " " " " " 169° 27' 135° 30' compass 3 Determined by Mr. Ogilvie at same place (with transit).. " " " " " « at Fort Selkirk. Obs. variation. 36° 12'* 34° 0'* . 34° 21'-5 . 34° 5' 'The differences between these obsns. and Mr. Ogilrie'a at same place, were assumed ai index crroi of instruments and applied to the obsns. at other pktces.