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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ra:ios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right err! s;op to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartas, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre filmAs A des taux de reduction difftrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit an un seul clich*, il est film* A partir de I'angie supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant la nombre d'imagas nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrant la mithode. 1 2 3 12 3 4 5 6 I p' (r Oen. I By the Same Author. punting in the (Jreat Wegl ("Rustlings in the Rockies.") 12 mo. Cloth. 300 Pages. Profusely Illustrated, 75 cents. "The Battle of the Big pole n AN AUTHENTIC HISTORY OF Gen. Gibbon's Engagement with Nez Perc^ Indians, in the Big Hole Valley. Montana. August 9, 1877. Richly Illustrated. 1 2 mo. Cloth, $1.00 ■■■■M Ckuisings in the Cascades. A N A U |{ A T I \ I-: l» K Travel, I-xploraiion. Amateur Plioiojijrapliy, Iliimiii.i^-. and Fishing-, WITH SIM:( lAI, < IIAiTKI!> ON rrrNTiNc; T„r.: .,uz/.lv heau, tub .ukk.u.,), elk. antklopf, U.HKV MOl-NTAIN .i,)AT, AND DKEIJ ; ALSO ON '1 KOrTIN(; IN THE ItnCKY MOINTAINS; ON A MONTANA HorND U' : LIKE AMONii THE COWHOYS, ETC. By G. 0. SHIELDS, ' "<()yriSA" ) AUTIIOH <...- ■■ HUSTMNr.S ,X THE U.KKIES," " H.NTINn IN THE GREAT WEST," "THE llATTLB OF THE liKi HOLE," ETC. chicago and new york: Rand, McNally & Company, Publishers. 1889. >u.o I CorvuitMri'. !><>'!*. iiv Kwd, MrXvi.i.v it Cm, 1 ■I Til.- nrtioli's heroin mi Kile, Ilrar. iind Antilniic Hiiiittntr aro roprlntod by thi' courtesy 111 Messrs. Il.ii|ier ti lirotlieis, 111 « Imne .MiiKMzine they were first published; and those on liulliilo lluntinjr luid Tiouting are leprodueeil Iruiu "Oiitiiit;" Maguzine, in which tlicy (list iippeiircd. • r " C'niiiM live Willi iiir ,iiii| 1,,. iiiv love. And '\f will all llic pi asiiivs prove Tiiiit liilN .iiiil vall('\N. (lilies and fields. M'ood^ or sleepy liioiiiilaiiis, yield " Mil) hire. ■Earth 1ms hiiill the umit watcli-toweis of the niouiitar- and they lift their heids f,,,- „p i„„. ,,,(. skv. and ira/e e^er u> ward and around to .see if the Judge .d' the World .■oni.s not." ' —Lontjfcliou; 4 4 ♦> •' ^ ».'»^HF wfmmmmmm "V. PREFACE. And now. how can I siiitablv luxAoix'v/A' for liavinr-- iiillicl.nl allot hrr hook on the icadin.u- puljlic^ I would not artenipr it l)iir tluir it is the custom among authors. And, come to think of it, T guess I won't attempt it anyway. I will merely say, ])y way of excuse, that my I'ormer liteiaiy efforts, espfcially my "Rustlings in the Kocki<>s.'" have brought me in sundry dollars, iu good and lawful money, which I have found very useful things to have :d)out the house. If this volume shnll uieet with an equally kind reception at the hands of l)o,,k huyers, I shall feel tliat, after all. I am not to Maine for having written it. TllK AI'TIIOK. Cill(A<.o, Mai;( IF. Kss<). (7) rjssm CONTENTS. ClIAPTEPv I. The Benefits, Mental and Pliysical, of Mountain flimhinir— A Never-failing Means of Obtaining Soiuul Sleep and a Good Appetite— The Work to be in Proportion to the Strengtli of the Climber— People Wiio Would Like to See, but are Too Lazy to Climb— How the Photouraph ( nmera ^Fay Eiichancc the Pleasures ami Benefits of Mounta'n Cllmbinir— Valuable Souvenirs of Each Ascent— How "These Thinixsare Done in Europe"— An Effcciivc Care for Egotism. CHAPTER TI. Tlie Cascade Mountains Compared with tlie Rockies— Char:ieter- isticsand Landmarks of the Former— Tiie Proper Season for Cruising in the Cascades— Grand Scenery oftiic Columbia- Viewing Blount Tacoma from the City of Tacoma— Men Wlio Have Ascended this Mysterious Peak— Indian Legends Con- cerning the :Mountain— Evil Spirits, Wiio Dwell in Yawning r'averns— The View from the Mountain— Crater Lakr and tlie Glaciers— Xine Water-falls in Sight from One Point. CHAPTER in. The City of Seattle— A Booming Western Town— Lumbering and Salmon Canning— Extensive Hop Ranches- Rich Coal and Iron Mines— Timber Resources of Puget Sound— Giant Firs and Cedars- A Hollow Tree for a House- Big Timber Shipped to Enghuul- A Million Feet of Lumber from an Acre of LantI— Novel Method of Loggip.g— No Snow in Theirs A World's Supply of Timber for a Thousand Years. .u lo rOX TEXTS. CHAPTER IV. Length, Breadth, and Depth of Pugct Sound— Natural Ue- sources of the Surrounding C'otuitry — Flora and Fauna of the Region — Great Variety of Game Birds and Animals — Large Variety of Game and Food Fishes — A Paradise for Sports- man or Naturalist — A Sail Through the Sound — Grand Mountains in Every Direction — The Home of the Elk, Bear, Deer, and Salmon — Sea Gulls as Fellow Passengers — Photo- graphed on the Wing — Wild Cattle on Whidby Island- Deception Pass; its Fierce Current and Wierd Surroundings —Victoria, B. C. — A Quaint Old, English-looking Town. 43 CHAPTEI? V. Through English Bay— Water Fowls that Seem Never to Have Been Hunted— Rifle Practice that was Soon Interrupted- Peculiarities of Burrard Inlet— Vancouver and Port Moody — A Stage Ride to Westminster — A Stranger in a Strange Land — Hunting for a Guide — " Douglass Bill " P"'ound and Employed — An Indian Funeral Delays the Expedition. 53 CHAPTER VI. The Voyage uptheFrazier — Delicious Peaches Growing in Sight of Glaciers — The Detective Camera Again to the Front — Good Views from the Moving Ste;imer — A Night in an Indian Hut — The Sleeping Bag a Refuge from Vermin— The Indian as a Stamping Ground for Insects — He Heeds Not Their Ravages. .'59 CHAPTER VII. A Breakfast witli the Bachelor — Up Harrison River in. a Canoe — De.ad Salmon Everywhere — Their Stench Nauseating — The Water Poisoned with Carrion — A Good Goose Spoiled with an Express Bullet — Lively Salmon on the Falls — Strange In- stinct of this Noble Fish — Life Sacriticcd in the Effort to Reach its Spawning Grounds — Ranchmen Fishing with Pitch- forks, and Indians with Sharp Sticks — Salmon Fed to Hogs, and Used as F( .tilizers; the Prey of Bears, Cougars, Wild Cat?, Lynxes, Minks, ^Martins, Hawks, and Eagles. 06 COXIllN IS. 11 ClIAPTKIJ VIII Tlic KivcM Above lilt" Rapids— A L;,U,. WitMn Ba altic "Wiills— Many Heautifiil WatcTfalls— Moint Don-las and ilsGlaci.Ts — A Tradini: l>ost of tlie lludx.n Bay Fnr Company— Tiio ilot Sprin-s an Ancient Indian iSanilaiinni— Anxiouslv Waiting lor "Dou-iass JMI— Novel .Aletlmd of I'hoK)- grapliiui; IJig Trees niAITKK IX. An Early Mornin-- Ciimh-A Thousand Feet Above tlie I.ake Fresh Drer Signs iu Siglit of the Hotel— Three Indians IJri in Three Deer— "Don-lass Bill •' Proves as P,i- a Mar nilier Infliuns— Heading off a Flock of Canvas IJack.s- iJoodly !!ag of tiiese Toothsome Bin^— A Si\va.-ii lint- K'evoilin- Picture of Dirt, Fiitii, Nakedness, and Decay Fish— Another (iuide Employed— l{e,idy on Sh^rt Notice UIV for the .Mountain^. ng as -A A ed t'i H3 CIIAPTFK \. (liaracteristics ,,f the Flathead Indian — Canoeisis and P ers by Birlii and Education— A Skillful Canoe Builder Freighlin-' Caiioes— Fi hing Canoes— Travel in l;- Canoes Two Cords of Wood for a Cargo, and Four Tons of M chandise for Another— Dress of the Coast Indians. leR- er- sfj CHAPTEIJ XI. Climbing the Mountain in a Hainstorni— Pe.in's Dirty Bl mkels-- Ilis Carefid Treatment of His Old .Muskel— A Novel Char-e for Big Game— The Chatter of the Pine Squirrel— A Shot Through the Brush— N'enison for Supper— A. Lame Con- veivation: English on the One Side, Chinook on the Other— The Winchester Exjiress SiagLivrs the Natives- Pecidiariiies of the Columl)ia Black Tail Deer. •j: CHAPTER XII. The Chinook Jargon; an Odd Conglomeration of Words: the Court Eauii-Uiige of the Northwest; ,•, Specinn'ii Conversa- tion—A Camp on the Moun-ain Side--How the Indian Tried u CONIKNI'S. lo Sleep Warm — 'I'lie IiniKirt.'iiiee ol fi (iood Hed \\ Ik n Caiupiiiii — Peaii is liken III — His Fall Down a .Mini'.iaiii — Unable to uo Further, We Turn Baek — Hitter Disappdiiil inent lO'^ C'lIAFTKlf XIII. The Return to the Village — TwoXew Guides Employed — OtT for the Mountains Onee Mon — The Tramp up Ski-ikdiul'Creek Throuiiii Jungles, (lulelies. and Canons — .\nd Still it Hains — Ravages of Forest Fires — A lied ol' ^lounlain Feathers — Description of a Sleeping Bag; an Indisponsa')le Lux- ury in Camp Life: an Indian Opinion of It. . , 107 CHAPTER XIV. Meditations l)y a Camp Fire — Suspicions as to the Honesty of My Guides; at Their Mercy in Case of Stealthy Attack — A Frightful Fall — Broken Bones and Iiiten-e SulTeriiig — A Painful and Tedious Jtmrney Home — A Painful Suruiea! Operation — A Ilapiiy Denouement ll'.l CHAPTER XV. The Beauties of Ski-ik kul Creek; a Raging Mountain Torrent; Rapids and Waterfalls Everywhere; Pietui-es(|Ue Tribu- taries— Above the Tree Tops — The Pleasure of (^uenchini: Thirst — A Novel Spear — A Fifteen-Pound Salmon for Suji- ]H'v — The Indians' Midnight Lunch — A Grand Camji Fire — At Peace with All 3Ien CHAPTER XVI. Seymour Advis(s a L;iteStart forGoat Hunting; biu Ilis Coiuicil is Disregarded — We Start at Sunrise — AQueerCr.aft — Navi patnig Ski-ikdvul Lake — A " Straight-up " Shot at a (Joat — Both Horns Broken OlT in the Fall— More Rain and Less Fun — A Doe and Kid — Successful Trout Fisinng — Peculiar- ities of the Skowlitz Tongue; Grunts, Groans and Whistles — John has Traveled — Seymour's Pri'tended Ignorance of Euiihsh. . \'2~) (ON IK NTS. i;? CIIAPTKIJ XVII. En Rimlctotlu' Villa-i' Airaiu— A Walcr Snaked ( ountry — •( »!i, Wliat a Fall was Tli(iv,.My CoiuitryiiR-ii!"— Walkin-oii Slip- IHiy Lous— .More Kaiii— Wet Imiiaiis— " Senio lie Spile dc Grouse"— A Fni.iral I^rcaklast-Hini, Li\ iii- ai Il,,iue-A I5ear Iledida Fisjuii- (io; l.ni H,. was C'aii.iilit Instead of the Fish, and His Skin is Bartered to tlie rnwa-liefl biwaslies. !;)3 CJIAPTEH XVIII. John and His Family "At Hoine— An Interest in.i.' Picture of Domestic Economy— iJille Practice on Gulls and Grebes- Puzzled Natives—" Pliwat Kind of Uurds is TliemV — A day on tiie Columbia— The Pallisades from a Steamei— Piioto- grai)liiug Bad Euuds from u Muvin.-i- Train. . M-.> CIIAPTEIJ XIX. Deer Iluntinir at Spokane Falls— Ruin ^Vrouiiiit by an Over- loaded Shotgun: A Tattered Vest and a Wrecked Watch- Billy's Bear Story— The Poorest Hunter Makes tlic Bigiri st Score— A Claw iu Evidence— A Distrusted Party. . IK; CHAPTER XX. A Fusiladc on the MiUl' Deer— Two Do s as the Result— A C.ood Shot Spoiled— View tromtheTopof Blue Grouse .Mountain- A(;rand Panorama; Lakes, Mountains, Prairies and Forests —.lohnstons Stoy— Rounding Ui> Wild Hogs— A Trick on theDutehman— A Bucking Muleand a Balky Cayuse— Falls of the Spokane River. ...... ir),3 CHAPTER XXI. Hunting the Grizzly Bear— Habitat and Characteristics— A Ca-np Keltic as a Weapon of Defense— To the Rescue with a Win- chester—Rest Localities for Hunting the Grizzly— Baiting and Still-Hunting— A Surprise Party in the Trail— Two Bull-- eyesand a .M:.-;s— Fresh Meat and Revelry in Camp. . 1G4 14 CONTKNTS. CIIAPTKK XXII. Elk Ilnntinir in the Rocky Moun!;iiii« — ("liaractcristics of the Klk— llisMoilc of Tnivi.l— A Stampede in a Thicket— The Whist'eof the Elk, the Hunter's Sweetest Music— Measure- ments of a Pair of Antlers — Saved by Following an P^lk Trail— The Work of Exterminators— The Elk Doomed. . 181 CHAPTER XXHI. Antelope Hunting in Montana — A Red Letter Day on Fiat Wil- low— Initiating a Pilgrim — Sample Shots — Flagging and Fanning — Catching Wounded Antelopes on Horseback — Four Mule-Loads of 3Ieat li)-l CHAPTER XXIV. Buffalo Hunting on the Texas Plains— A " Bull Train " Loaded with Skins — A Sensation in Fort Worth — En Route to the Range — Red River Frank's ^lission — A Stand on the Herd — Deluged with Buffalo Blood — A Wild Run l)y Iiulians — Tossed into the Air and Trampled into the Earth. . 213 CHAPTER XXV. Hunting the Rocky ^Mountain Goat — Technical Description of the Animal— Its Limited Range — Dangers Incurred in Hunt- ing It — An Army Ollicer's Experience — A Perihjus Shot — A Long and Dangerous Pursuit — Successful at Last — Carry- ing tlie Trophies to Camp — Wading up Lost Horse Creek — Xumerous Baths in Icy Water — An Indian's Fatal Fall — Horses Stampeded by a Bear — Seven Days on Foot and Alone — Home at Last 23(5 CHAPTER XXVI. Trouting in the Mountains — Gameness of the Mountain Trout — A Red Letter Day on the Bitter Root— Frontier Tackle and Orthodox Bait — How a Private Soldier Gets to the Front as an Augler — A Coot Interrupts the Sport, and a Rock Inter- rupts the Coot— Colonel Gibson takes a Nine-Pounder — A Native Fly Fisherman — Grand Sport on Big Spring Creek — How Captain Hathaway does the Honors — Where Grand Sport may be Found 257 ('(»N IKNTS. 15 (ilAI'lEK XXVll. Di'cr IIuiitiiiL;' in Xurtlicni Wi-cunsiii— On tlic IJiUiiio ;il Diiy- liglit— 'I'lio Woods Full of Game— Mis.sing a Stiindlni; " IJioadside" at Tlilrly Yards— So veriil Easy Shots in Hapid Succossioii ; the only Fruiis Shame and Ciiai^rni— Xervons- ness and Exeilemenl Finally Give Way to Coolness and Deliberation— A IJig Bnek at Long Uange— A Steady Aim ami a Unptured Throat— A IJIind Unn Tiirough Brush and Fallen Trees— Down at La^l— A Xohle Specimen— His Head as a Tr. ipliy. ....... :.'S0 CHAPTER XXVIII. AmoP!,^ the Pines— A Picture of Autumnal Loveliness— Cor- di il Welcome to a Logging- Camp— A Successful Shot— The Music of the Dinni r Horn— A Throal Cut and a Leg Broken —A Stump for a Watch Tower— The Raven Homeward Hound— A Suspicious P,;ick— A .Alysterious Presence— Dead Beside His .AIat( — T!irce Shots and Three Deer. . -jss CHAPTEP. XXIX. A Typical Woodsman— ^Model Home in the Great Pine Forest —A Lifetime in the Wilderness— A Deer in a Natural Trap — Disai^pointnientand Despondency-" What, You Killed a Buck:"— Sunrise in tlie Woods— An Unexpected Shot— A Free Circus and a Small Auilience— A Buck as a Buck' r— More Veni-on ^'M CHAPTER XXX. Cowl)oy Life— Tlie Boys that Become Good R-.mgo Riders- Peculiar Tastes and Talents Reciuired for the RaiKdi— Wages Paid to Cowboy.s— Al)use and .Misrepresentation to which They areSuhjected— Tlie "Flesh Kid/'and ihei. >ng-Haircd " Grea-^er"— The Stranger Always Welcome at the Ranch — A Dude Insured— A Plaid Ulster, a Green Uinl)rella, and a Cranky Disposition— :\Iaking u Train Crew Dance— An Uncomplimentary Concert -No Sneak Thieves on the Plains —Leather Breeclies, Big Spurs, and a Six Shooter in a Sleep- ing Car— Fear Gives Way to Admiration— The Slanu' of the 16 CONTKNTS. I{anij:c— Tlif " Hiickcr,"im(ltho " Ilu.sttT"— The Good Cow- Horse— Hopinn- for Trizes— Stiiikipg ji Bear with a Lariat- A Good Sehool for IJoys— Coiniiuiiiioii uilli Nature .Muk s Honest Men 304 /.. CIIAPTEU XXXI. icntana Koundup— Ranges and Ranches on Powder Hiver; Once the Home of tlie Bulfalo, rhe Klk, llic Anlelopc; now >lie Home of tlie Texas 8tecr and the Cowljoy— The Gresit IN Mils in Spring Attire— A (Jatherin- <-f Kustlcrs— " Chuck Outfits" to the Front— Early Risers- -Taming an " Alecky " Sleer— A Ked-Hot Device— Branding and Slitting- Tlic linn nil tlie Mess Wagon— "Cutting Out" and "Throwing Over ■— A Cruel Process. . '^ ooi 1 Cow. irifit — .Milk s ;]04 IJivcr; ; now GrcHt ''huck rky " (' Run JM'ing CRUISINGS TN THE CASCADES. CHAPTER I, " Mountains arc Ihv l)ogiunin^• ami the end of all natural scenery." — HrsKi.N. irramow pii MiiyoiK^ wlio lias the coui'tiue, the luii'diluKnl, niul the physical stiviigth to endiuvtlie exeicis*', there is no form of lecreatiou or aimiscment known lo mankind that can yield such oiand lesnlts as mountain climhino'. I mean I'lom a mental as well as irom a phys- ic al standpoint ; and, in fact, it is the mind that receives the greater l)en('lit. The |V 'exertion of t muscuhir forces in climl)ing a \ liigh mounttun is necessai'ily severe; in ftict, it is jmore than most persons unused to it can readily (emlure ; and wereit not for the inspiration which the mind derives fi'om the exi)erience when the ascent is made it would he l)etter that the sid)ject .should essay some milder form of exercise. But if (me"s strength })e sutiicient to endui-e the l:U)or of siscending a grand mountain i)eak, that extends to or al)ove tiinber line, to the regions of peri)etual snow and ice, oi- even to a height that gives a general vie\v of the surrounding country, the comi)ensation (1 .) IS ri;iI--IN'r.\i)K>; AM) nlllKi; I|I\II\(; AUVKNTIKKS. 10 m MM must |)»> jiiii|il' if out' li;i\t' an <•>♦' I'm tin- iM-.-nitics of JiMfiiri', (iijiiiy :iit|>rt'('iiiti(»ii (•!" the giiindriir nl" the ( 'iTii tor's uTcatrst \v(U'l\s. \':iiii, si'ir l(t\ iiiu' Mi:iii is wont i(» (-(.iisid*'!' Iiiiiis«'lt' t ln' iioltlt'si \\(»ik of (hkI. I»iit Iff liiin ,ii(> In t lit' h'p (if one (»r ihfst' lofty iiioiiiit.'iiiis, smroiiiKlcd l»y oiIkt toWciiun' |»r;iks, iilid if lie l)i' ii silIU' milll il«' will H. Lei liim stiiiid. f(tr iiist:mc»', on the siimiiiH of Mount Hood, Mount 'r;icom;i, or Mouiil 15:1- Ivt-r, tliousMiids of feet jil)ovt' mII surrouiidiiiu" jm-mRs, hills, and \;dl»'ys, w litMv lie may ua/.i' into space Imn- dr«'(ls of miles in t'Ncry direction, with naiiuht to (»!)- struct iiis view, iin-(' to face with his Creator, and if h«' iiave aun'litof the love of nature in hissoul. or(»f appreciation of the suhlime in his mental composi- tion, he will he inoNt'd to exclaim with the Apostle, '• What is man that Thou art mindful of iiiin. orllu' son <»f man tiiat Thou visitest liim '." lie will feel liis littleness, his iiisi<;inticance, his utter lack (»f im- 2)orlance, more forcibly j)erhapsiha!i ever before. It seems almost incredible that there should be men in the world who could care so little for the uraiKh'st, the sid)limest sights their nativo land all'ords, as to be unwilling- to perform the laboi' necessary to see them to the best t)ossible advantage ; andyet it is so, for 1 have J'reiiuentlv heard them sav : " I should like verv mucii to see these uiand siii'hts you (h'scribe. l)ut T never could allord to climb those high mountains J'or that pleasure : it is too hard work for me." And, after all, the benelits to l>e derived from mountain climbing aje not wholly of an intellectual 2n cunsiNus i.\ t;ii: ( ascadks *"■ ''F&i 'l/':' i^s^ri 1... ;, yii, •;,!,- .\\i> niiii.i; iiiNiiNi; Ai>v i:.\ II i;'---. 21 <'li;ir:ictfi' ; tin- physical sysii'in may I>t' lifiielitcd hy il ii^ »^fl!. Il is a kind dl" rxd'cisc tliat in liiiii lniii-s iiiKt use aliiiosi cxfiy miisclc in ilic l-.ddy, fliosf of ill.' Ii'i^s liciiin" of ('((iiisp taxt'fl III >st se- verely, l)iit those (if ihehackdo their riill shai.' of the work, while I he arms are railed into action almost con>taiill_\ . as tlie ('Jimher urasjts hushes or rocks lt\' which lo aid liimseir In th,. ascent. Tiie Junius ex- pand and contraci like helious as t hey inhale and exhale the larilied almosphere, and the lieaii l)eats like a trip hammer as ir i)nmps the invigorated blood thioiiuh th<' system. Tiie liver is shaken loose I'lom the lihs to which it Jias [)erchaii('e nrown fast, and the stomach is aroused to siicji a state of activity as it has i»rol)al)ly not experienced for years. I.et aiiv 111:111. especially one of sedentary lial>its. climl) a mountain .'(.iiod hM-t liidi. on a hri.uht. i.leasant day, when " Xiulil's caiKllcs arc liiinit out and ji,'cu:;i'. il iv Stands tiptoe 011 llic uiiNly lUdUiiiain luiw," inhere let jiim I»reathe the rare. ]>iire atinosj»liere, l're>ii iVom the ])ortalsor Jieaven. and my word I'or if lie will have a heiter a[»}»etit<>. will eat heartier, sleej) soander. and awake next morniiiu' leelino' more rel'resiied than since ;he days of Ids boyhood. Althoii-ii the labor be severe it can and should b<; inndiiiated to the streiiutli and capabilities of the pfMson llnde|•t:d^in^• the task. \o one should climb faster than is comiiatible with his sireniith. ^nid halts should beniadee\ery live or ten minutes, if need be. to allow the sy-tein ample rest, in this manner a vast amount of work may be accomplished 90 ciirrsFxcs ix tiik :3 simiiiK'i' oiitiiiiis ill scaliiii;' llic ^i:rt';it |)(';iks of llie iiioitnliiiMS iil'tci- wiiicli tilt' societies ;in' iiaiiied, or other fa ii.Li'es, and tlie winter eveiiiiius in ivi'oiiiitiiiii' to eaeli otliertlieii' experiences; and many a man, by his association witii the clul)s and by iiKbil.ueiice in this inviiio rating' i)astiine develoi)s iroin a (h'licate yoiitii into a niuscuhir. sturdy, athh'tic man in a i'ew years. Th*' i)ossibl('vabieol' mountain climb'iiu'asa reci'ea- tion and as a means of uainiiiii' ]\nowled,u;e, lias been .ureatly enhancecl, ol" late years, l)y the inti'ocbic- tion ol' tJK' (hy-i)late syste!:: in jiiiotography. and since rlie small, liulit. coni])act camei'as have l)eeu constructed, which may b»' easily and conveniently carried wherever a man can ]>ack his blankets and a day's supply of l'oo\ i:n rriiKs. 27 Cnsradt'sthtMlisiiiK'tioii orixMiiu' lh<'r the H(»('l\i<'s, or, in fact, of liny other laiiiic in the conntiy. As conlintMital landmarks, Mounts l*itr. I'nion. Tliit'lson, .lellV-i-son, IFood, Adams, St. Helens. Tacoma, ]?akei', Stuart, Cliiam, Doii^lass, and others are nnsni'i)assed. Their hoary crests tower to such majestic heinhtsas to be visible, in some instances, hundreds of miles, and tlieii- many glaciers feed miulity livers upon whose bosoms the commerce of naTi(»ns is borne. Mount .bd'- fei'son isl),(»-io feet hiu'h: \b)iint Adams, i)..")7(); Mount St. ib'lens. l). 7^)0; Mount P,aker, l(>,cS()0. Mount Hood. II. (>"2r), and ]\b)iint Tacoma, 14.4-14. Tlieie are many other peaks thai rise to altitudes of T.ooo to 9. <><»() feet, and from these iigi ires one may readily form somethin.ii'of anidea of the g-eneral lieiuht and beauty of the Cascade Kanue, The foordnlls are eed, reveals to our bewildei'ed gaze new I'oi'ms of Ix'auty and new objects of wonder. So many descrii)tions of the sceiieiy along this mystic sti'eani have l)een writ- ten, that evejy reading man, Avoman, and child in the land must be familiar with it, and 1 will not repeat or attemi^t to improve iii)on any of them. To say the most extravagant representations are not exaggerated, is to speak ti'uly, and noonecan know liow beautiful some of these towers and clilfs ai'e until he has seen them. The train arrived at Portland, that old ;uid fai-- famed metropolis of the Noith Pacilic coast, at half past ten o'clock in the morning, and after twentv- ! 30 rlMI>l\(.s I\ IIIK ( ASCADKS i'oiir hours jtlt';is;iiitly siiciit in view ijii-' its in;iuy ]>oiiits ol' interest jiiid the sn<)\v-('(»v('i'»'(l nionntains t IH'lv;|l)(>Uts. we illiilin lioillded the Xol'theril Piicilic tr:iin :iii(l s])e(l t(>u;inl 'rjiconiii, wlieie we nnived nt six ()"('h)('lv in the «'veniim'. Ilei-e we piissed another (»r naviuahle for the iar.uest ocean steamshii)s. The vast forests of i)ine, iir, and cedar, with which it is surrounded, ,uiv(^ Tacoma ,ureat commercial imi)ortanc«'as a lumherinu* town, and the rich au'ricultnral valleys thereabout assure home pro- duction of breadstulfs, veii'etahles, meats, etc.. sufli- cieiit to feed its army of workini-inen. Kicli coal fields, in tlie immediate nei,u'hl>orhood. furinsh I'uel for doniestic and maniii'acturin.L!: pui'poses at meivly nominal ]»rices. All the waters hereabouts jibound in salmon, several varieties of trout and other food- tishes, while in the woods and mountains adjacent, elk, deer, and bears are numerous; so the place will always be a poj)ular resort for the sportsman and the tourist. The ( hief attraction of the city, how- ev«'r, for the traveler, will alwayss be the tine view it alfnrdsof Mount Tacoma. This grand old pinnacle of the Cascade Range, forty-five miles distant, lifts its snow- mantled form far above its neighbors, which are themsel ves great n lonntains. while its glacier-crowned snmmit rises, towers, aiid strnggles aloft "til — " Rouud its breast the rolling clouds are spread, Ettrnal sunsliine settles on its head;'' AM) (>llli:i{ IIINTINCJ Al)\ KMIKKS. 31 Mild its (•r(>Avii is iilinost lost in tli«> liniilh'ss rro-ions of tii«' (l»'«'i) Miir si\y. Fnmi tlM' v<'r;iii(l;is of tlic 'I'mcoim;! Iloiiso on»' may view Mount 'r;i('()iu;i until wt-aricd with ua/inu'. TIih >«oi'tlM'rn I'iicilic Jiailwav niiis within liltt'cn miles of the l)ast' of it, and from tii»' iiraicst point a trail haslx'cii made, at ii cost of some tlioiisands of dollars, l»v wliicli tourists inav ascend tlie mountain on horseback, to an altilinh' of about lo.ooo feet, with comparative comfort; but he who u'oes above that. Iieiuht must work liis ]>assa<'e. There are several men wlio claim the distinction of beinu' the only white man that has ever been t(» the top of this mountain. Others declare that it has been ascended only twice; but we have authentic information of at least three successful and coni))lete ascents ha\in,i;' been nuuh'. Indian leueiids ])eo}>le the mountain with evil spirits, which are said to dwell in boiling caldrons and yawning caverns— "Calling shapes, ami beck'uing shadows dire, And airy tongues that syllable men's names." Tradition says their wild shrieks and groans may be lieard therein at all times; and no Indians are known ever to have gone any great distance n[) Mount Kainier, as they call it. White men have tried to employ the native red men as guides and packers for the ascent, but no amount of money can tempt them to invade the mysterious canons and clill's Avith which the marvelous pile is snrroundetl. They say that all attempts to do so, by either white or red men, must result in certain (h'struction. Un- doubtedly the first ascent was made about thirty years ago, by General Uhen Lieutenant) Kautz, and :j2 ('i:ri>r\(is i\ '\\\v ( axadks M Lit'Utriiant Sliiiiulitt'i-, of llic I'liltt'd Srjites Annv, \\ ho w^'i'c llicii stiitioiuMl at Stcilacooiii, Wasliiimion Territory. They took pack aiiinials, and with an <'scort of ^s('V<'|■al iii«mi ascciKh' I as i'ai" as tlic aiiinials coiiM ^'o. TluMc tlicy h'l't thf'iii and coiitiiiiicd tlie <'liiiil) on loot. They were tl lor lovt'lint'ss. CrattT Lakt' i'ornis one of the nivsteiies of Mount Ta('t)niM. Al>t»Mt its i'a,uean ports, over loo.ooo tons liavin*;- Ix^nn shipix'd in l.sss, ])i"ing-ing the gro\v«M'S the iiandson.ie sum of .s.")()().:}*i7. Dui-ing the tifteen yeai's since the l)e,i;inning of this ini[)oi't:int cultivation, tlie lu)p ci'o[) is said never to have i'aiied, nor has it been attacked l)y disease, noi" detei'iorated by leason of the ro<'ts beinn' kept on the same land without repl;inting. It is believed that the Dwaniish, t\w Wliite Kiver, and the Pu.yallup Valleys coidd easily pro<'U<''^ as nuiny liops as are now raised in the United "^r. « if labor could be obtained to pick them, Iik. u. aave been mainly relied upon to do the ^ 'cki]iu\ and they have flocked to the Sound from nearly all parts of the Territory, ewjn from beyond the mountains. Many have come in canoes from regions near the outlet of the Sound, from British Columbia, and even fi'om far off Alaska, tt) engage t<'m[)orai'ily in this ()ccui)a- tion; then to purchase goods and leturn to their wiu'wams. Thev excel the whites in their skill as pickers, and, as a rule, conduct themselves i)eace- iibi V. Elliot Bay. on which Seattle is l)uilt, aftoi'd> . '.-ne liarlun* and good anchoiage, while Lakes Uni i- • l Washington, large bodies of fresh water— t.'" former eleven and the latter eighteen feet above tide level — lie just outside the city limits, opposite. There are rich coal ndnes at hand, which produce nearly a nullion dollai's worth, each year. Large I'eitile tracts of agricultui'al lands, in the near vicinity, produce grain, vegetabl- ■ and f''Uts of many varieties, and in great luy ■ ' jice. ir*'. ore of an excellent quality abounds in the hiii- 'id il .vNi> oTHKi: nrNTrN(; AOVKNTrrj-.s. 37 hear of ore - id niountaiiis \n\rk of llic city, and witli all ^liese iiatui'al resources and advaiitaufs at lit-r coiiiinaiid, St'iittltMs sure to hccome' a ureal nietr()])olis in the iit-ai- fii'ui'e. Tilt' climate of tlie Pugel Sound coun- tiy is teni[)ei'ate; snow seldom falls before Christ- mas, never 1o a ui'eater depth than a few inches in the valleys and lowlands, and seldom lies moi-e llian a few days at a time. ]Nry friend, Mr. \V. A. l*eny. of Seattle, in a letter dated Decenihei- (5, says: "The v.eather. since yoni' departure, has been veiy beantifiil. The inoininu- of your arrival was the coldest flay we have had this ant'imn. i^'lowei's are now bloonunu' in the liai'dens. and vestei'dav a. friend who li\('s at I^ake Wasliinuton se?it nie a box of delicious sti'awbei-ries. [)icked from the vines in his uarden in the ojh n air on December 4. while you. jioor ieil(»w, were shiverinu', wrap})ed up in numberless coats and fiii-s. in the arctic i-euions of Chicau'o. Whv don't von emiuratej There's lots of room for you on the Siimas, whei'e the ilowers aie e\ei' bloominu', where the summer ne\-er dies, where the uood JiOid sends the ///cr (ui't'ai I salmon t(» your verv door: .wul where, if \()u want to sho(»l, \()U have youi' choiee fioiu the tiny jacksnipe to the cultu>> bear or the lordly elk." Theic are thousands of aeies of natural cranben-y marsi;es on tie shores of the sound, w here this fiuit iiidws w i!d III' n(,(>d (juality. and in uieat abundance. It has not been cultivated tlieic yei, but fortunes will b" made in that industry in the near future. ]?ut the crowiunu' ulory of Puuet Sound, and its greatest source ol' wealth, are tlie vast forests of li ■Si a 1 i AND n'l'irKll mNTI.\(i Al>VKNTr IIKS no J. a 2; ;3 3 tinibcr. It is scarcely iidvisablc lo tt'll the tnitli couccniiiiii- the size to wliicii some of the uiiiiit Mrs tiiul ce(hirs iiTow ill this country, lest [ l)e accused of exau'L-eration; but. Tor proof of what I say, it will only be necessary to iiujuire of any resident of th«' Sound country. There are liundreds of lir and cedar ti'ecs i^i these woods twentv to tweutv-tlve feet ill diatnelrr, above the spur I'oofs, and o\"er three hiindi'ed I'eet liigh. A cube was cut fi'om a lir tree, near Vancouver, and ^iiipped to the Colonial Kxhi- bition in London iji 1880, that measured nine feet and ei.ii'ht inches in thickness each way. The baik of this tree was fourteen inches thick. Another tree was cut, trimmed to a length of three Imndred and two feet, and sent to the same (h'stination, but this one, I am told, was only six feet tjn'ough at the butt. From one tree cut near Seattle six sawdogs were taken, live of which weiv thiity feet long, each, and the other was twentv-four feet in lenuth. This tree was only live feet in diameter at the base, and the first limb grew at a height of two feet above whei'e the last log was cut off, or over one liundi'ed and seventy feet fr(^m the gi'ound. A red cedar was cut in the same neighboi'hood that measured eighteen feet in diameter six feet abov<' the gi-ouiid ; and thei'e is a well-authenticated case of :i nuin, named lle[)burn, having lived in one of these cedai's foi'over a yetir, while clearing up a farm. The tree was hollow at the ground, the cavity measuring twenty-two feet in (he clear and ruiuiing u[) to a knot hole about foity feet above. The homesteader laid a Hoor in the hollow, seven oreight feet above theground, and ^— ^ 40 CRriSlX(;S IX TIIK CASCADKS i'V • I 1 f If I n l>lii('<'(l ii huldcr :iu;)iiist tlio \v;ill l)y wliicli to .ao up jiiid down. On tilt' lloor li<' hiiili :i stoiic lirfi)l;i('t', and froiii it to llie knot liolc ;d)ov»' a slick ;inr;iny anxiety as to how his wife and childfcn liked the situation. Thf " Siiiuas Saplinu" stands near Siiinas i^akc, northeast of Seattle, it is a hollow cedar, tweiity- thiee I't'et ill the clear, on the uroiind. and is esti- mated to l)e jil'teen l"e<'t ill diameter twenty feet above the uronnd. 1 liave, in several instances, counted more than a liundivd of these maniinotli trees on an acre of land, and am informed that one tract has been cut oil" tliat yielded over l.odo.coo feet of Inmber per acre. In this case tie trees stood so close to.u'etlier that many of the slumps liad to Ix^ duu' out, after the trees had been felh-d. bcfoi^ihe lous could be li'otteii out. The system of iou'ii'iiiu' ill vou'iH' liere diU'ers widely from that practi<'ed in Wisconsin. Michiiiaii. Maine, and elsewhere. ]S(> snow or ice are required here, and, in fact, if snow- falls to any considerable depth while crews are in the woods a halt is called until it uoes oil". (,,'oi'duroy in; .Is are built into the timber as fast asre(iuii'ed, on which tlie teams travel, so that it is not necessary that the uround should be even frozen, Skids, twelve to eiu'hteeii iiu'lies thick, are laid across these roads, about nine feet apart, and sunk into the ground so as to })roject about six inches above the surface ; the l)ark is peeled olt' the to[», they are kept greased, and the logs are " snaked" over them ^vith four to seven yoke of cattli'. as may ])e recpiiied. AVI) (tTIIF.I! inXTIX*; ADVKXrrUKS. 4t Tilt' wcahlil.T <)|ii'r:il<»is use st<';iiii locomotives ;ni(l i-AVs, hiiildiiiii' tincks into tlif tiiiilx'i- iis I'nst Mini as I'ar as iifi'<|f(l. Tills nfrat tiiiilirr hell isc()-cxt»'iisi\(> with Piiu't't Soiiiid. the Straits of (Icoiiiia. iiiid the ( 'ax-ad*' Mountains. 1 ludirve that at the prt'sciit rati' at wlilcli limil>t'r is Ix'lii;^' coiisiinicd, there is lir, pliie. and cedai" eiMtiiuh in Washington Territory and I'ritUh ( 'oliiiiil)la to last the world a thousand years. ss 1- CHAPTER I\. ['GF/r SorXI) is ii "Teal iiihma sea, «'xt eliding- iieuily 2^)0 miles iroiii the ocean, jiavin^- a sur- faci' (tC al)()Ut 2,01)0 !S(j^uaie l^il<^s, and a sliore line of I,;")!)-! miles, indented with nunuMons l)ays, harhors. and iidets, each with its pecnlitir nann* ; and it contains numer- ous islands inhal)lte(l by I'armeis, lumbermen, herds- men, and those engaged in ([uarryin:^ lime and build- ing stone. Nothing can sur[)ass the beauty of these waters and their safety. Not a slioal exists within the ISound, the Straits of Juan de Fuca, Admiralty Bay, Hood's Canal, or the Straits of Geoigia, that would in any way interru[»t their navigation by a seventy- four-gun ship. There is no country in the world that i)ossesses wat oriii.i: iirNiiN«i adv knit 1:1;- 45 § >' "When* llu' lire has opciK-il tlipsn shiidt's to llir liulit tlie almost iiiiivt'isnl liivurcd {cpilohiinti) and tlif l()\<'ly l)i(»\vu lii<'-iii()>s ( f'liiidria tahouiid. In swamps and lowlands the comlmstion of (h'cay, ahnostas (piick and clVt'ctiv.' as liio ils.'ir, opens lai'.iiv spaces to ill*' liulil ; and lnM'«^ al)onnd chu'tly Ili«' skunk <'al)l)a,u<' ol" lli<* Pacilic roast (7//.s'/(7///o//) and many I'oi'nis of the lovlit'st mosses. jLiTown l)t'yond belief save hy those who liave looked npoli theii' ti'opical con.u'eneis. //f/innniis -And Miu'iDiis make the uieat massAvhich meet the eye : and anionu' the many less obvions foi'nis a carefnl seaicli will leveal many si)ecies characteiistic of this coast alone. The lower foinis of the cryptouams. the lichens and the I'nnu'i, abonnd in <;i'eatest profnsion as miuht be exjtected. The chief intei'cst in these, in the present state of our knowled.u'e of them, spiinus from theii* disjxtsition to invade the more valnable J'oiins of vegetation which follow advancing civilization." 1 measnred one fununs. which I fonnd growing njjon the decaying triiidv of a, mammoth iii', that was thii- teen inches tliickand thirty-fonr inclies wi(h'. I have fivqnently seen mosses glowing on rotten k)gs, in tlie deep shades ol" these lonely forests, that were twelve to sixteen inches dee}), and others hanging from branches overhead three feet or more in length. There are ])laces in tiiv se d(^nse forests where the trees .stand so close and Ineir branches ai'e so inteitwined that the snn's rays never reach the ground, .and have not, perliaps for centuries ; and it is but natui-al that these shade and moisture loving i)lants should grow to great size in such ])laces. Tlie fauna of tliis Territory includes the elk. black- ■^T" I if 46 (•|!IFSI\(;«; T\ TIIH CASCADKS tailed (leer, ('('rnts C()/niiil)i((iiii.s ; tlie iniile-dccr, CcrrKs iiKicroins : ihi' \'ir'ji,iiiiii (l«'»'r, Cernis vinjiu- i'anff.s: llif cailhoii, llic Hocky Moimtaiii goat, Rocky Mountain nIkm'p, tlic griz/ly and Maclv bear. Ajnoiig tin' smaller mainnials tlicrc are tlie laccoon, the coMuai', wild cat, gray wolf. Mack woll*, i)i'airie wolf or coyote, gray and red fox, iisher, mink, martin, Deaver, otter, ,sea otter, r«'d .s(iniri*el, ermine, mnskrat, se;i lion, fnr and hair senls, wolverine, sknnk, badger, porcnpine, marmot, s\vani[) liare, jack-ial)l)it, etc. Of birds and wild fowls ther<' is a long list, anionu' which mav be mentioned sev(M'al varieties of geese and brant, including the rare and toothsome black l)rant, Avliich in season hovers in black clouds about the sand si)its ; t canvas back, red head, blue bill, b'al, widgeon, si m', and vari- ous other ducks ; ruJl'ed. pinnated, jind blue grouse ; various snijx'S and i)lovers ; eagles, liawks, owls, woodpeckeis, jays, magpies, nuthatches, warblers, sparrows, etc. There are many varieties of game and food lislies in the Sound and its tribntaries, in ad- dition to the salmon and trout already mentioned. In short, this whole country is a i)aradise for the sportsmnn and the naturalist, whatever the specialty of either. AVe left Seattle, en route for A'ictoi'ia, at seven o'clock on a bi'iglit, crisp November morning. The air was still, the bay was like a sheet of glass, and only long, low swells were running outside. We had a charming view of the Cascade ^fonntains to the east and the Olympics to the west, all day. The higher peaks were covered with snow, and the sun- light glinted and shimmered across them in playful,, I AND (HiiKU iir\riN\i.Mri:i;s. 47 chcfi'v luoofl. T)<'('|) sli;ii)ject in the u'orueoiis landscape, and one on which we never tired ol' uaziiii;'. We had only to cast our eyes IVoin the «;-i'and scen«' ashore to that at our feet, and rice I'cfsii, to — " So(.' the mountains kiss liiuli iiojivcn, Ami tilt' wiivi's cliisp OIK" iiiidtlicr." A lar.^-e colony of ,i;'iills followed the steamer, with ceaseless l>eat of downy winu's, from dayli.uht till dai'k, and after the Hrst hour thev seemed to i-euaid us as old i'iiend> Thev hover\ kxtckks 49 twenty feet, tnul of course all thai wciv nearer or farther away, at the insr-.mt of exjxhsuv". ai-e not shar]). Many, liowcvci-, that were on wini-' at the time of makiiio- the exposure, and at the inoi^n- dis- tance from the I-ns. are clearly and shai'ply cur. These i»ictiires form a most interestinii' stnt'ly for artists, anatomists, naturalists, and others,' the winus beinu- shown in .'v.My position assumed by the birds in fliuht. The shutter worked at so hiuh a pressui-e that only one (.r two biids in the entire series show any movement at all, and ihev are but v.-iy sliuhtly blui'ivd. When wo consider that the steamei-, as well as the oulls, was in motion-run- nin- ten miles an hour-treniblin- and vibratino- Irom stem to stei-n.. anare walls of sand and gravel. On \Vhi(ll)y Island, one o!" the lai'gest in the Sound, there was. up to a i'ew yejirs ago. a herd of wild cattle, to which no or 3 made claim of ownershii), and whieh were, conse- (piently, cijnsidered It^uitima^e game for anyone who cared to hunt them. They Avere waiy and cun- ning in the extreme. The elk or deer, native and to the manor born, could not be more so. But, alas, these cattle were not to be the ])rey of true consci- entious s))orfsmen; for the greed of the mai'ket hunter and the skin hunter exceeded the natural ciiuninu' of the noble animals, and thev have been nearly exteruiinated; only ten or twelve remain, and they will socm have to yield up their lives to the insatiable greed of those infamous l)utchers. One of the ost curious and interesting points in the sound is De.»'ption Pass. This is a narrow chan- nel or passage between iwo islands, (nilv liftv yards wide, and about two hundred yard- lonu". On either side rise abrupt and towering col iinuis of basaltic rock, and during both ebb and tlow the ride i uns tliiough it, Ix^ween Padilla and Dugall:' Bays, with all the wild fuiv and bewilderinii' s])eeil of the maelstrom. « * ^ J. This i)ass takes its aame from ih- fact of there being three coves near — on th* west coast of Whidby Island — that look so niudi like Deception that they are often mistaken foi- it at rught or dur- ing foggy weather, evenby expei-ienced navii'-ators. All the skill and care of the best i)ilots are re(piired to make the pass in safety, and the bravest of them 52 CKriSl.\(iS I.\ TinO ( ASCADKS. lieave a sigh oH. reVmi wlieii once its beetling cliffs and spetliing abysses are far astern. Gulls hover about this weird plnce, nnd eagles soar above it at all houi's, as it' adni.i'ing its pristine beauties, yet in supei'stitious awe of the dai'k depths, ^[ount Erie, two miles n way, rising to a height of ],'}()() I'eet, casting its deep shadows across rlie pass and surrounding- waters, completes a picture of rare l)eauty and •grandeur. We leached Vic^toria, that quaint, old, aristocratic, ultra-English town, just as the sun was siidving beneath the waves, that rolled restlessly on the surface of Juan de Fuca Strait. We were surorised to see so substantial and well-built a town as this, and one possessing so much of the air of age and inde- pendt'iice, so far north and west. One might iradily imagine, from the exterior appearance of the city and Is sui'i'oundings, that he were in the province of Quebi c instead of that of Jjiilish Columbia. ]\fy wife felt that she must not remain h)nger away from home at present, and we were to part here; there- fore, in the early morning she eml)ark('d for home, while 1 ti'ansferred my effects and self to the steamer Princess Louise, bound for Burrard Inlet. t ! CHAPTER V. (iMvliglitiii tlie moiriing we entered Eng-]isli J^ay, luiving crossed tlie strait diinno^the niglit. The sun ('limbed up over the snow- mantled mountains into a cloudless sky, , and his rays were reflected from the limjtid,' tramjuil surface of the bay: " Blue, dirkly, deeply, beautifully blue," --.. i^ US if from the face of u mirj-or. A few miles to the east, the triple-mouthed J^^iazer empties its great volumr .,f fresh, cold, glacier tinted fluid into the briny inland sea. and its delta, level as a floor, stretches back many miles on either side of the river to the foot-hills' of the Cascades. Thousands of ducks sat idly and lazily m tlie water, sunning themselves, pruning their l'<'atl)(M's, and eyeing us curiously but fearlessly, as we ]>assed, sometimes within twenty-five or thiity yai-ds of them. A few geese crossed hither and thither, in low, long, (hirk lim^s, uttering their familial- honk, honk; but tliey were more^wai'v than their lesser (ousins, and kept Avell out of range. I asked the purser if there was any rule auainst shooting on board, and he said m,: to oo down on the after main d(M'k, and shoot until 1 was tired. I took my Winchester ex])ress from the case, went below and opened on the ducks. They at onrv found \w .04 ('i!risiN(;s ix TiiK rAS('Ain:s .1 it necessary to get out of the country, and their motion, and that of tlie vessel coni])ined, caused nie to score several close misses, but I jinally found the bull's-eye, so tosjjeak, and killed tliiccin r;i])id suc- cession. Then the mate came down and said: ''We don't allow no one to be lirin" oil ,^uns on board." '• I have the i)urs('i'"s peimission," I said. '• \V(dl,"' he replied, "IIih captain's l)elt('i' author- ity than the purser on this here l)oat,"' whereui)on he retui'ued to the cabin deck, and so did 1. I was not seriously disap])ointed, howevei', lor I caird little for the duck shootin,i>'; T was in q.iest of hirovi' gauie, and only Avanted to i)ractice a little, to renew acipmintance and familiarity with my weai)on. Eai'ly in the day we entered Ihu'i'ard Inlet, a narrow, crooked, and pecidiarly shaped arm of the salt water, that winds and threads its wav manv miles back into the mourdains, so narrow in placi's, that a boy may casta stone across it, and y(^t so deep as to be navigable for the largest ocean stejimship. The inlet is so luirrow and crooked that a stranger, sailing into it for the lirst time, would pronounce it n great river coming down from the mountains. Through this picturesque body of water our good boat cleft tlu^ shadows of the oveilunming mountains until nearlv noon, when we landed at \^ancouver, the terunnus of the Canadian Paciiic Railway. In consequence of this important selection, the place is a l)usy mart of trade. The clang of saw and hammer, the rattle of wheels, the general din of a building boom, are su<'h as to tire one's nerves in a few hours. Later in the day we reached Port Moody. This town was origi- AM> OTHKII in\l'I\<; AltVKNTIKKS ;).) nnlly dcsiuiKited ns the lidc-w.itci' tcnniniis of the load, and liad its l)i'iel' era of ])i'.»si)('ril y and spccii- ]ati()U ill ('<)iis('(|uen('«'; hut now tliat tlir ]>lan Jias been ('liang«nl it lias bctMi ivdnced to a mere way station, and lias relai)srd into the dullest kind oi" dnllncss. Fi'om here I staged aci'oss the divide to New Westniinstei'. on the Frazer river, tln^ home of iNIr. ,1. C IIii,uhs, who had invited me tlieie to hnnt Rockv Monntain uoats with him. 1 was urieved beA'ond nieasnre, however, to learn on nivarrival that he was dangeronsly ill. and went at once to ids house, but he was unahle tost^eme. Tie sank I'apidly inmi the date of his lii-st illness, died two days aftei' mv arrival, and I therid'ore fonnd mvself in a stranu'e land, with no friend oi' accinaintance to whom 1 could fajor further said he considered Bill one of the most Jionest. truthful Indians he had ever known, and that i could trust him as implicitly as I could any white man in the country. This ari'angemeiit was made on Saturday night, but Bill said he could not start on the Jiuiit until Wednesday morning, as his mother in-law had just died, and he must go and helj) to l)ury her on Tues- day. The funeral was to take ])lace on the Chiliik- weviik river, a tribntarv of the Frazer, about iifty miles above New Westminster, and it was arranged that I should go np on the steamer, and meet him at the mouth of llariison river, another tributary stream, on Wednesday morning. We wei-e then to go up the Harrison to the hunting grounds. I was § AM) OIIIKU Iir.\ll\(i ADVKNITKKS. 57 (l«*li^lit<'(l jit the pi'()sp(M't of a siicct'ssrul liiint, wltli so ^'ood a .u'liidc, and cliccrrally ('(Hisciitcd lo w;iil tlic iicccssury ihwv days I'or The ivd man to jx-iforni tlie last sad rilt'S ol' his tribe over the iciiiains o! the departed klouc/nnaii, but I was doomed to dis- appointmeut. ' il 1^ A VIEW ON' THE FRAZEU. (58) ''Tlio first time I Ix'liclil tlicf, biautcdu^; stroani, Hiiw pure, how siiiootli, how l)r(iail thy liosiim licavt'd; "Wliat icc'liiiiis luslied upDii my heart! a iilcain As of another life my kiinlling soul received." I left Xew \Vesliiiiiisrri' ;it srvcii o'clock Molidav I' iiioi'iiinu' on the stetnuci' Adelaide, I'oi" llic jiioiith of IltiiTisoii rivei', sixty miles up the Fra/ci'. There were over twenty Indians on Ifoard, ^uoinu' up to the a of mouth of the Chilukwevid^, to attend the funer Bouii'lass Bill's deceased relative. As soon (.V,l) IS 1 1 1 1 ■' I. ll ()() < i:ii>i.\(.s IN iiiK < .\s( Ain:s learned tlieir dcsiiiiatioii I iii(|iiiiv(l if lie weie aiiioiii;" them, 1)iit they said lie was not. He had come ahoard before av<' left, hut for some jvason had (h'cided to ,ii(> oil aiiotlier boat tliat left half an hour ahead of the Adelaide. The vovaue iiroved inteiisclv iuleivstiiiu'. The Kiazer is from a (luarter to half ti mile wide, and is navigable for larue steamers for a liiiiulred miles aboNc its mouth. Tlieivare jiortioiis (»f the valley that ar(» fertile, thickly settled, and well cultivated. The vallevs of some of its ti'ibii- taries are also uood farmini;' disti'icts. and urain, fruits, and xcu'etablcs of various kinds ,t;i()W in abiinda ice. At the mouth of the Chiliikwevuk I saw line oeaches that had ^rown in the valley, with- in ten miles of ]>eri)etual snow. The river became very crooked as we neared the mountains and linallv w«' entered tht^ uorue, or canon, wl "ft' the rocky-faced mountains rise, sheer from the wiiter's edue, to heiii'hts of many hundreds of feet, and just back. of them tower ,ui'eat i>eaks, clad in eternal snows. The little camera was a.uain l)i'()U,ulil into re(|uisiti()n and, as we rounded some of these pic- turesque bends and traA'ersed some of the beautiful reaches, F secured many uood views, though the day was cloudy and lowery. The boat being in motion, I Avas, of course, comindled to make the shortest l)ossible ex[)Osures, and was, therefore, unable to get lin(> details in the shadows; yet many of the i)riiits turiK'd out fairly well. We saw several seals in the vWvv on the way up, and the captain informed me that at certain seasons they were quite plentiful in the Frazer and all the larger streams in the neighborhood. They go ux> » AM) oiiii.it iir.\ri.\(. .M>\ i;ni'ii:i:s. (51 ilic FiMZcr lo lilt' 1m*;i(1 of juiviuMlioii mikI lie could not, s:iy how much liirlht'i-. lie snid lh;ir ou oiih occiisioii it J'ciuiilc sciil Jiiid her nouiiu" wnc seen MporlillH' in the w;ite|-;ihe;i(l ol' the steiiiiier, ;ill(l tllMt when the vessel ciiine wilhiu al)out lil'ty yiirds they (love. Nothing' more was seen of tli«' piipjiy, Jind the cMptaiii thoiiuht it must have heeu cauuhl in the wheel and killed, i'oi' the mother followed the vessel several miles, whiiuuu'. looking lonuiuuly, 2)itirully, and beseech inuly at the i»assen<;'eis and crew. She would swim around and around the steauKM', comini;' close up, showini;' no j'ear lor her own sal'etv, whatever, l)Ut seeminu' to beu' them to give back her l)aby. She api»eared to have lost sight of it entirelv, whatever its i'ate, and to think it had l)een captui'ed and taken on boaid. Her moaning and begging, her intense grief, wei-e pitiable in the extnMue, and brought teai's to the eyes of stout, l)rawny men. Finally she seemed completely exhausted with anguish and her exeilions and gi-ad- uallv sank out of sight. Mv inl'oi'inant said he hoped never to witness another such sight. We arrived at the mouth of llari'ison river at six o'clock in the evening. There is a little Indian vil- lage there called by the same name as the river, and Mr. J. Barker keeps a trading i)ost on the reserva- tion, he being the oidy white man living there, lie made me welcome to the best accommodations his bachelor quarters ali'orded, but said the only slee])- ing-room he had was full, as tw^o friends I'rom down the river were stopping with lum for the night, and that I would have to lodge with one of the Indian families. He said there was one klooclunan (the m till nmw^ (;i:ris[.\(;s ix '!!ik cax.ades ! i li 1 ffi 11 Chinook woid Inr s([iia\v) who w;is ;i reniarkalily" neat, ch'Miily liousekceiiHi', wlio liad n spare room, and \vlio iisiiallv kfpt ativ slranuvrs that Avislied to sto]) (iV(M' niiiht []]. tilt' villauv. While we wei-e tallv- iiiu,' the s(|ua\v in (jiicsilon caiiK' in and Nfr. Bai'ker .said to lier: 'vMai'v, vaii-lvwa lioston man tik-rli moo-sum nu'-.si-ka liousc j)olakdf'." ' Heip is an Amci'ican wlio would like to sleep iii youi- hoiist^ to-night.; iV) wiiich she replied: '• Yukd\.;i liy-ak*' i he '-an comum. ana the har.uain was closed. I lemained at the stoi»- and talked witli Mr. Barker and his friends ni-til ten o'clock, when lie took a lanlern and piloted me over to the Indian ranclierie. wliere 1 was to 1 xlu'*'. 1 took my slee[(ing- l)a,i;' with me and thanked my stai's that I did. for notwithstandinu' the assurances uiven me hy o<)()d Mr. Barker that the Indian woman was as uood ii housekeeper as the average white woman. I was afraid of vermin. I have nevej- known an Indian to he witliout the heniipterons little insect. Pediculus i/ihincinis) (-(ipiffs. Fossil )ly theie may be some Indians who do not Avear them; I simply say T have never had the pleasure ol:' knowinu' one, and I have known ;i ii'reat ma UA', too. T seriously doubt if one has ever vet livinl manv davs at a time devoid of the companionshi]) of these pestiierons little creatures. In fact, an Lilian arid a louse are natural allies — boon com]>anion and are as inseparable as the boarding-house ]>ed and the bedbug. The led man is so inni'ed to the ravages of his ])arasitic com- panion, so accustomed to have him I'ustling AM) (triiKU mxTiN*; aovkxi ii:i:s. 63 around on liis person and foniiring for i;rul), tluit he pays little or no attention to the insect, and seems hiirdly to I'eel its bite. Y')ii will i-arely see an Indian seratrh his head or, in I'ju't, any jjortion of his person, as a white man does when he gets a hite. Lo I.\(.-< I.\ 'IIIK CASCADES Th(^ liousc ]i;is foiii' windows ;iiul one door, asliingle roof and a hoard llooi-. Tlicv liav(? a cookinn'-stov*^, sevei-al cliairs, i\ tal)l('. ('Uj)l>oard. etc. The Ix'dstcad on whicli 1 slept, was lioiueinade, lait neat and siih- stantial. It was furnished witli a white cotton tielv, (iKOIiCiK AM) MAi;V. filled with straw, feather pilh)ws, severalelean-look- ing blankets, and a ])air of moderately eh^an cotton sheets. I have slept in much worse-lookirig heds in hotels kept by white })eoph'. This Indian village, Ilai'rison river, or Skowlitz, as the Indians call both the river and the village, is composed of about twenty families, living in houses |. ii' ■ |i AM) <»IHKK IM\'l'r\(; .\I)\ l.NIIIIKS. ().■) ()i'al)()iit thcsMMK'chiss !iii(l of lilt' s:mH\i;viicrn] dcsiu'ii as tlie one (U'sciihcd. altli()ii<;ii sonu^ arc sliulilly larger and hettei', while otlicts are not quite so good. All liave been built by white caipeiitei-s, oi- th«' greater i)art of the work was done by them, and the lumber and other materials were manni'actured 1)V wliite men. None of the dwellings haw ever been painted inside or out, but there is a n 'at mission church in the village that has been honcj-ed with a. coat of white paint. There are a i'ew log shacks standinu" m-ar, that look verv much as if thev had been built bv native industry. The frame houses, I am informed, were erected by the CTOVcnment and the church by the Catholic Missionary Society. 1^ I It r I I 1^ CHAPTER \ 1. as not coiiipelled to eat with (leoruo and ■ ' Marv. i'oi' Mr. Barker had kindlv invited me to breakfast with him, and when I reached his store, at the brealvl'ast liour in the morninf^', I i'otind a neat invitinu- lookini;- table in tlie room * ^ck of the store, h)aded witli broiled ham, l)aked j)otatoes, good bread and biittei", a pot of steaming cofYee. etc.\ all of which we enjoyed intensely. Mr. Baiker infoi-m* d me there was a clnster of hot springs t"!i mr!'..s np the river, at the foot of Harrison Laivt-. tlie sonrf >> of Harrison river, near which a laige hotel had lately been l)nilt. Vpcu iucpnry as to a means of goriing 11 J) there. 1 learned that iie liad take some freight np that morning in a canoe, ari^i thar ! could probaoly sccuih^ a ])assage with thcni. As U;!.rison ijake. oi' rather the monnt- ains siiri'oundiiig i!, weie the hunting-grounds ;v!iich Douglass Hill had selected, and as we would iiave to p;iss these hot s})rings en route. I decided to go tli^M' and wail lor him. 1 therefore ari'aiiged with Ha.ker to send hiui up to the springs, when he should call for lue at the store, and took passage in the freight canoe. The Hari'ison riv(M' is a huge stream that cuts its way through high, rugge(l mountains, and the water AND OTIIKIJ JU'NTIXCi ADVJN'Tl' ItES. 67 has a pronounced milky tinge imparted b^ the bin- ders I'l'oni which its IV'edei's come, awav back in the Cascades. It is a famous sabnon sti'eam, and thou- sands of tliese nobh^ fisjies, of i; mmoth size, that had lately gone u}) the river .ind into the small creeks to spawn, having di< d from disease, or hav- ing been killed in tlie teri'ible rai)ids they had to encounter, were lying dead on every sand ))ar, lodged against every stick of diiftwood, or were slowly tloatiuft' iu the 'urrent. Their carcasses lined theshor(>ali along the lower portion oL' the river, and th*^ liogs, of ^vhich the Indians have large num- bjrs, were feasting on the putrid masses Jis vora- . iouslv as if tliev had been eai's of new, swet4 corn. The stench emitted l>v these festerinu,' bodies was nauseating in the extreme; and the water, ordinarly so pure and palatable, was now totally unlit for use. I counted over one hundred of these dead iislies on a single sand l)ar of less than hall' an acre in extent. Cruising anud such surioundings was anything ))ut pleasant, and I was glad the current was slow here so that, though going up stream, we were able to make good 2)r()gress, and soon got away from this nauseating sight. About a nule above the village we rounded a bend in the river, whei<> it spread out to nearly a (piartf r of a mile in width, and on a sand bar in the middle of the stream, sat a liock of geese. I picked up my ritle and took a shot at them, but the ball cut a ditch in the water nearly lifty yards this si(h'. and went singing over their heads into the woods beyond. They did not seem (o enjoy such music, and taking wing started for some safer feetling-ground, carrying i 1 IM '' if i H -5 i ■1 (68) AM) oriiKK iir\iiN(; advkn i ikks. m > 'A c on a lively coiiversutioii in r()l)al>]y about any I'ool who would ti'V to kill ucesc at that distance. T turned loose on them auain, and inahout a second after iudlin,L''tlietiiii',uerone of them stvmed to explode, as ii' hit by a dynamite bond). Foi- a lew seconds the air was full of fragments of <;(>ose. v.nicli rained (h)wn into the water like a shower of autumn leaves. My red companions enjoyed the I'esult of this shot hugely, and a canoe load ol' Indians from up river, who were passing at the tim<', set up a regidar war whoop. We pulled over and got what was left of the goose, and found that my expi'ess bullet had carried away all his stern rigging, his rudder, one of his paddles, and a considerable portion of his hidl. The water was covered with Iragments of sail, ■|)rovisions of various kinds, and sundry l)its of cargo and hull. Charlie picked up so much of the wreck as hung tou'ether. and said in his broken, laconic English: " Dat no good goose uiin. Shoot him too much away." There were ])lenty ot ducks, coots, grebes, and gulls on the rivei'. and I had line sport with them whenever 1 cared to shoot. A mile above where 1 killed the goose we entered a h)ng reach of shoal rai)ids. where all the brawn and skill of the Tndians were reipured to stem the powerful current and the immense volume of water. The rapids are over a nnle loim', and it took us nearl v two hours to I'each their head. As soon as we were well into them we came among large numbers of live, healthy sahnon. Manv of them were runniiiL!,- (h)wn the stream, some up. Avhile others seemed not to l)e III nw ■ I CO) I- 11 " AM) (iiiiKii iMNiiNct Ai>vi:\i'ii:i:s. 1 fop i u t c: (/. p. < 114 »¥• g'oing iinywlierf in pii'ticiiliii', l)iit just loMlin*'' ju'omul, «'nj()yin,u: tlieinselvcs. Tlu'V Wi'W. wild, but, owin.u,' lo the wiittT beinu' so r()u<;ii and I'apid, we tVeciucntiy ^ot witiiiii two or thn'H ['vol of tiicm before they saw us, and tiie Indians killed two large ont^s with their eanoe poles. Occasionally w(» would cornel' a whole school of them in soni<» little i)ocket, where tlie water was so shallow that theirdorsal fins would stick out, and whei'e there Avas no exit l)nt by passing dose to the canoe. When alarmed they wonld cavort around like a herd of wild nmstangs in a. cori'al, nntil thev would churn the water into a foam; then, <'mboldened l)y their peril, they wonld thish out past ns with the velocity of an arrow. They were doinga great dealof jumi)ing; freqnently a large lisli, two oi' three feet long, would start across the stream, and make four or hve long, liigh h^ai)s out of the water, in i'a[)id succession, only remain- ing in tlie Avater long enough after each Juuip to gain niomentum for the next. I asked Charlie why they were doing tins, if they were sick, or if something was l)iting them. ''No," he said. "Plav. All snnie di'unk — raise hell!" These salmon run uj) the rivers and creeks to deposit their spawn, and seem ])osscssed of an insane desii'e to get as fai' uj) into the small bi'ooks as they possibly can. They frecpieiitly i)ursue their mad course lip over l)oiling, foaming, roarin.g rai)i(ls, and abi'upt, pei-[)endicnlai' falls, whei'e it wonld seem impossible for any living ciealure to go— regai'dless of their own safety or comfort. Thev are often found * « in dense schools in little creeks away np near their 72 IN(.S IN 'IIIK CASCADKS sources, wild*' tlicrc is not ualci' rnoimli to cover their l)o(li('s, Mild \vImm«' tiinv Ix'coiiu' jiii e;is\- iirev to mini, or lo wild Ix'iists. In siicii cases, liiditins kill tlit'iM with six'.-irs Mild sliMTp sticks, or even cMtcli mikI throw them out with their liMiids. Or it' tht'ii' jounicyiiius tMke them Minoiiu- I'Mriiis oi- rMUciies, MS is often the cMse, the i»eoi>le throw them out on the l)Miiks with ])itcli-l'orks, nnd nl'ter supply- in^' their household necessities, tliey CMl't the nohle lish MWMV and feed them to their ]i(\i;s, or even use them to Tei'tilize tlieii- lields. I hMve .seen smIiiioii wedded into some of the siumII streams until you could nlmost Avalk on tliem. The l)Mnks of nuiiiy creeks, iar np in the foot-hills, are almost wholly composed of the hones of ^ Imoii. In travelinears, ('on;^'ars. minks, wild cats, lishers, ea,ules. hawks, and worst and most destiuctive ol* all. men, await them evervw heri and If w onld 1 )e stranii'e indeed, it' one in each thousand that left the salt ater should live to return. The h-w that do so. w are, of course, scj weak that they fall an easy jiicy to the seals, shai'ks. and other enendes, that wait with open mouths to enuulf them. So, all the leap- in,u', rushin^n' multitude that entered the river a few months a.u'o, liave, ere this, o-one to their doom, but tlieir seed is planted in the iry bi-ook, far away in the mount, dns, and theii' younu will soon come loith to take the place oi" the i)arents that hav*^ ])assed away. The instinct of re^jrodnction must, indeed, be an absorbing passion in ]Hun' dumb cr«'atures. wlieli tliey will thus saciilice life in the etl'oit t() deposit their ova where the oil's] )]'iiiu> nuiy i^.^t be brouu'ht into being. !' IP : ! 7i < nrFSF\(;s IV 'IHK CAsCADT.S J i o :^ 3 a CO a 'A 'A J? ■Ji ■J y, \ K lilt' r:i|»i(ls we Imd n lovely i'<'iU'li river, ridiii M (inaitt'i' to lijill" :i Ic wide, wiih no jM-rccptihl*' cur- ll. hlllK'llrd li >iir iiiiilcd t'lioits, ^oiir liuht ('t'diii' ciiiUH' shot over the wjitci' lis liuhtly Mild niinost iis swiftly MS the liiills m1)ov»' us sped :- tlir()U;''li the Mir. I look one of the ..poles Mild used it while the III- ^,,„,^ .J^^ diMUs plied their pMddles, mikI Un- a distMiire of iieMily two miles the (lei)th of water did not vMiy two inches IVoin Toui'Mnd m IimH" I'eet. The bottom WMs coniiiosed of m liMid, white sMud, into which the pole, with my weii>ht on it, sunk less tliMii Mil inch; in fMct, the current is so slight, the widtliof the river so gicMt, Miid the gen- ei'Ml chaJ'Mcter of the WMter such, that it might all be termed a iMke above the I'mIIs; though the foot of the lake, as designated on the map. has a still greater widening live miles above the head of the falls. Abrupt basaltic walls. :)()() to l.ooo feet high and nearly ])ei'}»endicular. lise from the water's edge on either side. On the more sloiting fares of these, vegetation has obtained root-room, little bunches of soil have formed, and various ever- greens, alders, water hazels, etc., grow vigorously. i i (•IIAPTKI! VIM. il ti I? ^ 1 1 1 4 I ■'' *1 ,. If (76) AND (cniKK ii(NiiX(i \i)Vi;Niri;i;s. 77 I 'A o <1 ILilf a foot of SHOW liad lately rallcii on the t()i)S of these nioiiiitains. and a warm, soiithwesr wind and the l)i'i,i;ht sun were now sending it down into the river in numerous idun.uini;- streams orciystal iluid. For ihousandsot^vears these miniature torrents have, at frequent intervals, tu?nltled down here, and in all that time have worn hut sli<>ht notches in the rocky walls. Shrubs have ixrown up alonu- and over these small waterways, and as the little I'ivulets come coursing down, dod;Li,ing hitherand rliithei- under over- hanging clumps of green foliage, leaping from crag to crag and curving from right to left and frotn left to right, around and among frowning projections of invulnerable I'ock. glinting and sparkling in the sun- light, they remind oneof silvery satin ribbons, tossed by a summer l)reeze, among the l)rown tresses of some winsome maiden. 1 took several views ol' these little waterfalls, but their transcendent beauty can not be intelligently expressed on a little four-by-live silver print. Several larger streams also ])nt into the IIarris(m, that come from remote fastnesses, and seem to carve their way through great mountains of granite. Their shores are lined with dense growths (jf conifers, and afford choice retrei. :s for deer, bears, and other wild animals. At three o'clock in the afternoon we rounded a high jioint of rocks that jutted out into the rivei', and another beautiful pictnre — another surprise, in this land of surprises — lay before u^ Harrison Lake, nestling among snowy peaks and dotted with basaltic islands, rellected in its peaceful depths the I : Ij t tf< CKFTslNCiS [V 'I'HK ( ASCADKS I !1 I .siin'oaiiditiii- inoiiiiTaiiis .is clpaily as tlioniili its ])hi('i(l siiii'aci had been coveivd with (|ui('ksilve]'. This hike is about i'ortv miles loiiii' is fed ]>v tlie LiUooet river and luniKM-ons smaller streams. Silver <*reek. which fomes in ori the west side, twenty miles north 'if the hot spnn.us. is a beautifid mountain stream ol' <'onsidei'able size. A (jiiarter of a mile above its mouth, it makes a perpendiculai' fall of over sixty feet. It is one of the most beautiful falls in the eountry. Near the head of the lake, and in fidl view from the spriu,us. old Mount Dou.uiass, clad in ])erpetnal snow and .ulacial ice, towei's into the blue sky until its brilliancy almost dazzles one's eyes. Though forty miles away, one who did not know would estimate the distance' at not more th;; ■ live, so cleai'ly are all the details of the grand picture shown, it is said that Irom the glaciei's on this peak c.oun the sti'eams whose waters give their peculiar mdkv cast to llaii-ison Lake and TTai'i'ison river, Xe; ;;he base of Mount Douglass is an Indian village of the same name, and the Hudson Bav Fur Com- « pany foi'.uerly liad a trading i)ost in the neighbor- hood, wliiclilhey called Fort Douglass. This Indian viUage is the iivMne of my prosi)ective guide, and fi'om it he has ado .ted his unpoetic cognomen. Half a nule to the right of where we entered the lake, the famous hot s])rings. already mentiom'd, l)oil out from under the foot of a mountain, and discharge thei]' steaming fluid into the lake. The cui'ati\e ]Knvro\vn lias erected over the springs a large bathdiouse, aiid near that II conmiodious hotel. He has cut a road throngh a jkiss in the mountains to Agassiz station, on the Canadian Pacific Railway, live jniles distant, so tlmt the spiings may now he easily reached by invalids wishing to test their curative ])rojierties. Soon after my ari'ival at the s[)rings, T climbed the mountain to the east of the hotel, and passed the time pleasantly, until sunset, viewing the beautiful scenery in the neighl)orhood. On the following morning I took a boat and rowed u[) the east shore of the lake, in h()[)e of gettinga sliot at a deer, l)Ut though I saw plenty of fresh signs all along the shore no game was visible. 1 spent the afternoon looking anxioush for mv promised unide, but he came not. I agnin amused mvself. however, taking views of the scenery, but found on develop- ing the negatives that T had not been eminently suc- cessful with either Mount Douglass or MountChiam. Snowy mountains are about the most dilficult objects in all nature to])hotogi'aph, es])i'<'i;djy if you attemjtt to include anything beside the snowy jjcaks in the l)icture : for they are s(» intensely w hite. ami the sky or even clomls that foiin the background are so light andaft'ord so slight conti'ast, that it is next to impossi- l)le to get good sharp i)ictures of them. The landscape about the mountains issuretooll'ersomedark objects, perhaps dee[) shadows, and even the mountain itself ! *■ i i' hi i tl ■"^ ; ' M. ('i;risi.\(;s i\ TiiK CASCADES I if. 11 I neai'lv ;il\v;ivs lias bare rocks and dark, (•loomv can- oils, aiidto^uct rliesc and tlicdazzlini;' wliitciiess of the snow and ice on the same plate is decidedly diflicult. (>r coiii'scwc s<'(^ many lint' photographs of snow-cov- ered mountains, hut if taken with a clear sky or with light clouds for background, there is generally more or less reloiiching necessary, and more or less doctor- ing in i»rinting. with tissue pa])er, glass screens, etc., in order to obtain the resnlts we see in the jmnts. I made some fair views of both these peaks, but not such as an cnthnsiastic amateui' might Avish. Of the lower mountains, where jit that time tliere was no snow, of the lake, the islands, etc., 1 got very sat- isfactory i)ictui'es. I went up the road, toward the lailway station, a ndle or moi'e, where it ])asses ihrongh one of those grand I'orests for which this countrv is so Tamous, where — '■ Those irrccii robed senators of niii^hty woods Dream, and so ilreaiu all in,'_rlil witlioiit a >tir." There I made views of some of the giant cedars, the dense moss-hung jungles, the great hr trees, etc. In these (htrk, denselv-shaded woods I had lo take olt the Hying shutter and make time exjjosures. 1 gave three to live seconds to each i)late. In the prints the trees and othei- objects nearest to the lens are of coui'se over-exi)()sed, but the details in the shadows and objects in the extreme dislance are clearlv and heautifuily brought out. Foi- these time exposures I jtiaced the camera on some convenient log, stump, or stone, in lieu of a tripod. In two instances 1 seated the iear end of the instrument on the ground, with the lens bearing up throngh the t(-ps of the trees. The whitened trunk and broken, straggling ai'ms of A\r> oriiKU mxiixt; Ai)vi;\irin> SI Olio ^Tent old dead lir— oik' lliat lias ilourislicd in this rich soil and drawn susteiianrc I'loiii the moist, ozoiiedaden aliiiosi)hei'e of tlicsc mountains I'oiliun- dreds of yciiis. hut has lived oni his linn? and is now goin.ij,' tli(^ way oi' all ihinu's <'ai'11ily — forms the suh- ject of one of the best and most interest in,i;' pictures of the wliole series. Tlie tops of several otlier trees — hircli, maple, etc., that stood near the lir— are also shown in the i)icture. It can best be seenandai)i)re- <'iated by holding' it above your head, looking' up at it, and imaf-iniiii;- yourself tiiere in the forest. looU- ing np throuii'li tlie tops of the gumt trees into the blue ethereal dome of heaven. 1)1 "0 ,.'ri ■ ? ^f CHAPTER IX. 5 ;k It t > «! 3 It morniiii;,' I got ii[) t'arly to look for Doug- ' lass Bill, thiukiii.u' mid lio[»iiiy he might Imve landed dining the night, but no one had seen him and there was no strange canoe in the hai'l)oi'. After breakfast, in order to kill time, I ('Uml)e(l tiie mountain east of the hotel to a height of about ;i thous.'ind I'eet. It is heavily tiuibered, and I found plenty of fresh deer-signs within plain sound of the hammers wielded by the carpenters at work on the hotel, but failed to get a shot. I returned at eleven o'clock, but Bill had not yet shown up. Three other Indians were there, however, with three deer in tli<'ir canoe, which they had killed oi: tile opi)osite side of the lake the day before. I now concluded that Mr. Major s coniidence in Bill was misplaced ; that he was not going to keep his conti'act, and was, in short, as treacherous, as unre- liable, and as corsunmiate ;i liar as other Indians; so I entered into negotiations with these thive Indi- ans to get one or two of them to u'o with me. Ihil thev had planned a ti'ip to New Westuiinster, to sell theii' venison, and I could not induce any one of them to go, though I olfered big wages, and a pr^^mium on each head of game 1 might kill, besides. 'I'hey said that if I wished they would take me to their village — (82) )| 1 i AM) (ClIIKU lirNTIN(i A DV KNIT IIKS, fe3 which is live niUes down the i'iv«'r — iind that tiiere were several good goat liiiuters tiiere ^vllonl I could get. I accepted their ofTer of transportation, stejtped into the canoe, and we i)ulled out. As we entei'ed the shoal water in the river I askinl for a ])()le, and ini[)elled hy it and the three i)addles we sjx'd down the stream at a iai)id late. Tliei'e was a cold, disagr(>eal)lc rain falling and a chillv noi'th wind blowinu'. This storm had l)i'ou. two old and two young sipiaws and nine suiall Indi- ans, some of them mere papooses in arms (but not ll f 84 (■i;i'ISIN(iS FN TIIK CASCADKS ill long clot lu^s -ill I'Mct, iiol in ;iny clol lies wort li iiicii- tioiiiiiii), (';iin(' swiiriiiiiiuoiil loint't'l us. 'rii<'ii-Ml)o' of tile roof. Thechildivn. bare foot <(1 and half- naked, came in out of the rain, mud, and lisli carrion, in Avliicli they had b(>en tramping about, and sal or lay on the ground aluuil l||e lite, looking as ha])py us a litter of jiigs hi a uuul hole. On poles, attached II AND nriii;ij iir\'H.\(; A i)\' i;\i(i;i> .sn " ; i I oy ct'iliii' willies to llic nil'tcis, ^\('^t' liiiiiij,' scvcial liuiidrcdsMlinoii, iil)S()rl)iii<:-siii()k(', cnrboirK; add ,u":is rroni tliH limus ol' tlic liiiinaii Ix'inus hciicalli, and steam I'l'oiH tilt' cookiiiu' that was uoiiii;' on. It is understood thatal'tei' iliis j)ro('ess haslx-eii [)i()l()n,ue(l I'or some weeks tiiese once noble Jislies will be lit I'or the winter food oL" the Siwash. Some oL' tli<' houses in (Miehalis are neat frame ('otta,i;'es ; in fact, it is a beitcr-biiilt town, on the whole, than the villa.u'e of llaiiison Hiver already described; but these better houses all stand back about a (Quarter of a mile from the river, and the iidiabitants have left them and goiu* into tin; '' lish- hotises,'' the clapboard structures, on the immediate river bank. Some of these shanties are much laru'er than the om3 mentioned al)ove, and in ome cases four, iive, or even six hunilies hole up in one of these filthy dens during the iisli-curiny season. Asa matter of fact, there are salmon of one variety or another in these lai'.uer rivers nearly all the } ar, but sometimes the weathei' is Too cold, too wet, or otherwise too disagreable in winter I'or the noble red man to lish with ccmd'ort, and hence all these prep- arations for a rainy day. After the lislies are cured they are hung up in big outdiouses iet on i)osts, or in some cases built high up in the i)ranches of trees, in order to be entirely out of the i-each of rats, niiidvs, or other vermin, and the members of the commune draw I'rom the stock at will. The coast Indians live almost wholly on lish, and seem peif(M'tly happy without llesh, vegetables, or bread, if such be not at hand, thouuii thev can eat pleiitv of all these when set before them. If one of them kills a deer he sel- 86 ('i;i'isFN(;s IN riiK cascadks clolll or never ('ills iiioi-c of it llllUl the liver. Iieiil'f, 1uii;l;s, etc. lie sells the cjircjiss. 11' within ;i tliiee davV voviiu'e (»r ;i white iiuiii who will liiiv venison. Oueol* the vounu,' inennli'ejidv mentioned went with t^ALMON UOXES IN TlCliKS. me down to one of tlie bi^' Hsb-honses and called ont Pean. a man about lil'ty yeai's of a,ue, wlio he said wti.s a iiood^oat hunterand a ^'ood guide. Tliey held a hurried convers^a.ti.eu i'l theii' native tongue, at the ,' s 1 ! .' ANi> vi \iriji:s. 87 ('lost' of which [he voiiii;;" iiiiiii Miid IN'.'iii would i^o with ]iu» for t\V(> (h)ll;iis ji dnv. 1 iiskt'd Pcmu if hn could l;ilk I'Jiulish, ;iud he said "yes," lull ihls |U'ovrd. iu mI'Ici' experience, to l)e id)ouI the oidy KiiU'lish \v(U'd he could speak. He lushed into tlie Jiut. Jiud in about three oi' foui' tuinutes I'etunied with his ii'uu. powih'r-hoiii, hidlet-pouch. pip*.', and a small foil of blankets, and was I'eadv fof u journey into the mountains of, he knew not iiow man V (lavs. His ctuioe was on the river bank near us, and as we wert^ stei>pin,u' into it F aske ^N V] V. 7: "^ i> ^^#1/'? '/ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 12.8 2.5 2.2 I.I 1^1- t us 112.0 1.8 Photographic Sciences Corporation /. 4, " 1.25 U iiiji^ -^ 6" ► ^ „-(>' \ A \ 'A ^ ^ yi 'VEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) 873-4503 o\ 88 ei:risiN in some cases, live iidand ex- clusively, they are never hap})y when away from the water. They are canoeists by birth and education. A coast IS' Indian is as helpless and miserable with- out a canoe as a jJains Indian without a horse, and the Siwash (Chinook for coast Indian) is as expert in the use of the canoe as the Sioux, Ciow, or Arapahoe in the use and control of hisfavuse. Almost the sole means of travel, of intei-conmiunication amoni;- these people, and between themselves and the whites, is the canoe. Thei'e are vin'y f<>\v hoi'ses owned in any of the <'oast tribes, and these aiv rarely ridlen. When a Siwasli attemj>ts to ride a hors«> he climbs onto it kicking and grunting with the elfort, much as an Alabama negro mounts his mule, and sits him about as gracefidly. But let the Si wash stej) into his canoe, and he fears no rapid, whiilpool, nor stormy billow. He faces the most perilous water and sends (89) '1 1)0 -) o a v. u Q I— I '■J o < AND OTIIEI: IirXTINci ADVKNTI- liKS. 1)1 'i. his fi'Mil cediiiTsUell into it \vitli:i .skill and a cousdous- ness of niasteiv that wonld i)iit to the blush any of the prize winners in our Eastern canoe-club regattas. The canoes are models of nautii.d architectuie. 'i'liey are cut and carved from tlie cedar trees which bounteous Xature, in wise provision for the Avants of Her children, has caused to grow so plentifully and to such i)rodigious size in the Sountl country. They are of various sizes and lengths, owing to the uses for which they are intended. If for spearing sal- mon or for light traveling, they are cut from a tree twenty to twenty-four inches in diameter, and are not more than twelve to iifteen feet k)ng. If for attending nets and bringing in the catch, they are generally longer, and if i'or freighting and long-dis- tance traveling, they are of inmiense size and capable of carrying grejit burdens. A tree of the size wanted is selected, perfectly sound and free from knots, and a log of the desired length cut off. The log is hol- lowed, carved out to the desired shape, then trimmed and tapered outside until it is a mere shell, scarcely more than an inch thick anywhere. It is then tilled with water, a lire is built near in which rocks are heated and thrown into the canoe until the water boils. This is continued until the wood is thoroughly cooked and softened, when the water is turned out, the canoe is spread at the centre, braced out to nearly twice its natural width or diameter, and left to dry. This gives it " sheer" and enables it to ride a heavy sea like a lifeboat. Handsomely carved figureheads are attached to some of the large canoes, and the entire craft is painted, striped, and decorated in gay colors. I m 92 CiMISINCiS IN IIIK ( ASCADKS . mt'Msiircd out' (tf llu'sc ccdur cmuocs lluit wns tliii-tv- « lour IVt'l loiiu' and live and a hall' IVct iH'aiii, and was (old by its (twiK'C thai in* had canicd in it four tons ol' I'lt'luhl on one trip, and 1 wo cords of ^reeu wood on anolht'i'. It would carry lil'ly men coinl'oitaMy and safclv, 'IMicic arc nol manv of the Indians that can make the lai-j^cr and better' oTiiKi: iir.Mi\(. Ai>\ KNTi i;i;s. Til ey iii-enot luru'.' iiicii. hut arc toiiul I, SlllCWV, t\ IK} nd miisculiu'. An invrn.uv Siuasii nill pick up iibanvl ol Hour or pork, ;i case of drv i-oods. or ,,tli,.i. I,,.;, vv hvi,..|it Nv..i-lii!io-tl,,vcl,uiir.', roil It onto liis back, and walk river-bank MS easily as a wlijt ipa uanu'-plank oi- a steep <• Mian would uitli a bairel of crackei Xo W(n'k is loo (liity ())• too liard j'oi- tl are obedient to ordei but their weak i.oint, like that of all jnd inordinate love o ICJU. Tl s ajid submissive to disci})! lev ine lans, is ihcir \v 1' whisky, (^uite iVetpientlv, after oi'kin.i^- a few weeks or luoiiths. tl K'y »iuit and no on n drunken (h'banch thai ends (uil'v when tl money is none. Their dress is much'tl genei-al, as that of tli<' whites in thi exeeption that the Indian leir K' same, in srenioii xvith tin s wear moccasin ■'■> when Inintini.-. This foot-ear is lit fl^in favor here with white hunters, owin,o- to tliere bein fall, and so much wadinn- to do. Kubbej- I indispensable foi'liuntinu- in most 'j; so much I'ain- >oot: are ber coat should also be included oiitiit. 1 found the JIannafoid boot tlie most cond'oitable and i)eifect f seasons, andaiiib- in every hunter's ventiJatt'd lubbei- footuear I have ever worn. You can scanviv walk a mile i any diieetic n moun er. : most m in this countrv at anv tii .AI on watt tlie one of my onides why he ,|i,| i„,t instead of moccasins. ne of ve;!i- buns or lowlands, without encounterini-' 'occa.sins soon IxM'onie soaked, and are then mcomfortable t hinus imaiiin and h ii>lc. 1 asked wear rubber boots O, I (lunno. l)e 'plied luoxicans cheaper, mebbe. 1 mek him myself. Can't mek de boot This is about the onl y use the Indians make of ^ I 1 i i : 1 0 ,i 1.1 04 ( i:ri>iN(is IN rni. cax \iti:s buckskin. It is not j»(»i»iil;ir with tiicin ;is ii in;it«'fijil lor rlotliiii^, on jii'comit ol" tin* vast jniKtiiut of rainy weather. It lias been said they make chitli from tiie wool of the p)at, l)iit, so Far as I coiihl h-ain, they make very little, if any (»!' it, of late years. 1 saw some l»lank<'ts that Indians liad woven from this wool, but tliev were verv coarse. Tiiev have iiomaehineiy I'oi" spinninii'i the yarn is merely twisted ly hand, and is socoaise and loose tiiat it woidd not hold t(',uether a week if made into a garment and worn in tin- woods. Of course, a fail' ai'ticle of yai'ii, and even cloth, may be, and has been, made entiivly by hand, lait the.se peoj)le have neither lh«* skill, the taste, nor the industry to enable them to MUKN'IXG'S CATCH. vl 1 l)tl < iM i>i.\<.-- IN rm; < ax adks "'XT^/.'^r^- ■>v-.^i -.i^-"^' /t^l^v. M : I -f^a -V «<■ AN INDIW SALMON FISIIKItV, '-> i| I iiS;.: ^ CllAl'TKl} XI, ■1 I 1 ■35^ ', ! 1, I "! t 08 CIM lsI.N(is IN IIIK ( Asr.MUiS HOW ;il)(Hit MS proiKiimccd :i luiiiictto as its owiirr. 'I'll*' otlu'i- l)!Miik«'t wMs^iMv. Itiit t'vcii throimh this sniuhic sliinlc, ;is \\«'|| jis tliroiiuli tlh' liMlk odni' it «'!iiitt«'(l, ^;i\<' ex idt'iirt' thiir it Imd not hft'ii washed for many 3«'ars. IN-aii ItioijuJit with him a cotton lM'ds|ii'«'ad that had also oiici* hren Avhilf, but l«*ft this with th«' ('ano«'. In my pack I (•allied til.' ^ii'ul), and an extra eoat for iis^mui the mountain, where we e\j»ected to encounter colder weather. We started u]) the mountain at ten o'clock in the l'oi<'no(ni, lM>r the lirst two miles we skirted its base to the eastward, throiiuh dense tiiiiln'r, crossing- several deep, dark jiinules and swamps. Then we bcLMii the ascent proi>er. and as soon as we i^-ot ui» a few hundred feet on the mountain side, we found numerous fresh deer-signs. We lialte}»osed to he a good, modern wea[»on. It i)roved, liowever, an old smooth Inuv, muzzledoading, percussi(m-lock musket, of .05 cali'ue, with a barrel about liftv inches lonu'. He drew out the wii)ing stick, on the end of which was a wormer, piilh^l a, wjid of i>aper from the gun and poured a charge of shot out into his hand. This he })ut care- fully into his shot-bag. Then he took from another IKJUch a No. 1 buckshot, and dropi)ed it into the muzzle of his musket. It rolled down onto the powder, when he again instated the ])uncli of paper, rammed it home with the rod, put on a cap, and was loade "llll.!: Ill NUM. .\1»\ KM I Ki; jis if it li:ii lircli lU) s:!(io skill cover ;is <'jirt'riiliv |)I'"»M'||-I(»;i(lt'r. N«';irly nil liio.' |||<|i;ilis use jusj sijcli old llllls- k«'ls. hoiiiilit from flit' IIikKom I'mn ( 'oiiiiiiiiin , .'ind y«'t ilu'v k»'f|t ilifiii ill covci's iiiiiil*- <»r lilt' skill of tiM* scj k wliirii iIk'v kill ill tin- rixcrs IhTfjiltoiil. or of (k'<'i' or oiIht jiniiiiiiN. Tlicy tiikr «'.\r»'ll>'iit ciiic of llicir ^iiiis ill tiiis rt'>jM'ci. liiit i linvc iifvcr x'cii oiH« of tlicm clejiii or oil his \vi'jiin)ii. ;,ii(l scvciiil of iImmu told iiic tJH'V st'ldom d ( > .S( ». iNJy WiiicJM'stcr t'.'vpi willi kmry siork. Lyiiiim siu'lit, «'!('., WMs ;i ciiriosiix ]o tlinii. >i'oiit' of tin'iii liiid t'vcr .sct'ii iinythinu like il. ;iiid out- of tlicm asked lilt' wliat kind .» a riiif it was. Wlifii lolij it was a WiiK'lM'stcr, lie said: •" I ditliTt kiion- Wiiiclicsicr so liiu- like ilat. Didn't know he liad stock like dat."" lie hat! tinly seen the little .44 Winchester, wit!) a plain stock. Jind innocently snppcjsed it was the only kind made. IVan and T had a hard day's work toilinu up the mountain thronuh fallen tinibei'. over ami art)iind great ledges of jilt ling rock, across deep, riiuued canons and gulches, and through dense jmiules of underbrush. Ahoiit two o'clock in the afternoon we halted, lay down foi- a rest, and had heen there hut a few minutes when 1 heard tlie sharji. familiar chatter of the little ])ine stpiirrel. 1 looked around quickly, expectiiig' to see one within a few feet of me, but instead saw IVaii lying close to the grotind, l)eckoning to me and pointing excitedly np the game trail in which we had Ix'cn walking. Looking throuiih the thick, interveniny," brush, 1 saw two ) . ^l I'M loo CIMlSlXCiS IX TIIK (ASC AIH.S (U'fM-, ;i buck 5111(1 :i doe, lookiiii*' towai'd us. Tliey li;i(l not seen noi- scenrnd us, l)ut luid merely heard the cjiiittei' of tile little squirrel, as they sujjposed, and, though apparently as coinpletely deceived l)y it as I had heeii. they had sto]>ped tolisten, as tliey do at almost eveiv sound tlievhear in the woods. Bnt there was no s([uiriel there. Pean had taken tliis methocl of callinu' my attention, and had imitated the cry of the familiar little cone-eater so perfectly that even the deer liad been deceived by it. I cautiouslv and slowlv drew jiiv rifle to mv shoulder, and takinu' aim at the breast of the buck, tired. Botli deer l)ounded away into thi<'ker brush, and were out of sight in an instant. Pean sjtrang" after tlieni. and in a f<'W minutes I heard the dull, uiutHed re[»ort of \i\> musket. He shouted tome, and going to hiiu 1 found the l)iu'k dead and the hidian engaged in butchei'ing it. ^fy bullet had gone a little farther to tlie 1^'ft than I intended, breaking its shoulder, and had passed out through the ribs on the same side. The deei- had fallen after going but a few yards, but was not quite dead when Pean came up and shot it through the h«^ad. We took out the entrails, cut a choi<'e roast of the meat for our su]q»er and breakfast, and hurried on our way. We camped at four o'clock on a small bencli of the mountain, and you may rest assured, gentle reader, that our conversation in front of the camp tire that night was novel. Pean, you will remember, ct)uld not speak half a dozen words of English. He sjjoke entirely in Chinook, and 1 knew but a few words of that iaruon. I had a Chinook dictionarv i AND OTIIKU JirXTINd ADVKN'jntES. 101 with lUH. however, and by its aid was able to i)it'k out the few words necessary in wliat little talking I had to do, and to translate enough of Pean's answers to my questions to get along fairly well. The great trouble with him .seemed to be that lie was wound up to talk, and whenever I made a ren.ark or asked a (jriestion in his ado])ted language he turned loose, and talked until 1 siiut him off with ''Ilalokum- tucks'' (I don't understand ). No matter how often I repeated this he seemed soon to forget it, and would open on me again whenever he got a rue. He was a Huent talker, aud if I liad only been well up in the jargon, 1 could have got lots of pointers from him. The deer of this region is the true black-tail {Cdr- vus cohunbiunnn), not the mule-deer (Ccrriis mn- crotis), that is so often miscalled the black-tail. The black-tail is smaller than the mule-deer, and its ears, though not so large as those of the latter, are larger than those of the ^'irginia deer (Cprr«.s r/?-- ffiiii'anns). It>s tail is white underneath, dark out- side, shading to black at the lower end, and while longer than that of the mule-deer, is not so long as that of the Viruinia deer. ■^ fi,V« ^■«,^i«OTy S: M i i f CTI AFTER XII. IIINOOK is ;i qiwev .jj'r^on. It is said ^^ to liav(^ been iiuiiiul'jietuied many years ai-o 1)V an enii)lov6 of the Hucl- son Bay Fur Company, ^\ilo taught the ])rincii)al cliiet's of various Indian tribes to si)eak it in order to facilitate traffic witli tlieni. From tliat time it has grown and spread until almost every Indian of the Xorth Pacilic Coast, and many inland tribes of Washington, British Columbia, and Oregon s[)eak it. White men of all nati(ms avIii live in this country speak it, and even the almond-eyed Cliina- man learns it soon after locating here. In short, it is tlie court language oL' the Northwest, as the sign language is of the plains. It is made np fnmi va li- ons Indhm tongues, witli a few English, oi I'ather pige<> you want to AXD OTIiKIt JrT'NTIN(. Ai>V KXTrKKs. ](;8 "Kla-how-yji, six." ''(Miah-roy;,h-\vn" is " Coim "Mi-ka tik-eli mani-ook'" woik^' " Ik-ta mi-ka 7nain-ookr" *• Vt wlnt''' -Mam^ok^ick." ^Cnt some wo^d:*' ^a-wit-ka." "CVrtainlv."' "Kon-si(lat-la spose mi-ka inam-ook kon-a-wav o-koke stick' ' " Wi.Mf ,k , ' - that lot of ,voo,ir "'""■'""''"■ ™""'^- "Iktdolhi.-' "Ono ilollnr" (tliree) lock-it (four), k«in-im„i (livei, tn.'h.kiini -.X) «m-na ,„ox («.ven), sto t«-kln,..ilHr n nmej, f,h-,Iu,n („.„,, tak-tlun„.ee.ikn4v™ , h "u l>ee.mox (t«dv..j, moxMal. ,l,„n u«Jn klone tah-tlum (fhii-tyX ikt tal.-kanK.-, mv o,e m„.h« t.h.tl„,„ t.,.ka „.o.n,ik ,o„e t„„„.,; fm,„ 1 "^' '.'•""'■"" '" g"f "•■"■-at,. mforn.atior t.om these Iiuliaus ms to ,li.srances or tin,,. „s the have httle idea of Enslish ,„iles or of th^;, e ' ,; .ents ot tm,e, an.I very fe»- of th,.,,, <,«n , ■ k „ UHv to read a wnteh or eloek. Vnder Pean's , . e " I learned rapidly, and was soon able to e n "^ ii;t2t;r;r'"'''"'"-^"'^''"""''-^-»''-'''^<>^*i'" By the light of a I'ousing eanii,-(ire I cut a hrn-e quantity of ,.edar honghs and made L n vseTf^I bed a foot deep. On this I spread n,v sleepin.,-, ' , en.ul„l into it and slept the sleep of fhe wea y , ,;;: ter. Pean ent only a handfnl of bonghs, p ."ad 1 !* ) ■(' ,'l j I h ii 104 CUriSINCJS IN THE ("AS(\\I)KS tliem near the tire, threw his eoat over tlieiii, and hi y down. Tlien lie fohled his two hhmkets and spread them over him, mostly on the side awav from the lire, leaving that part of his body next to the iuv exposed so as to catch its heat direct. Duriii*'- the night, whenever he turned over, he would shift his blankets so as to keep them wlune most needed. At frequent intervals he would get up and replenish the lire from the large supply of dry wood we had jnovided. The night was bitter cold, at this high altitude, and snow fell at frequent intervals. A raw wind blew, and the old man must have suffered from the cold to which he exposed himself. There are few of these savages that understand and appreciate fully the value of a good lied when camping. In fact, many white hunters and mount- aineers go on hmg camping trips with insufficient ))edding, simply because they are too lazy to carry enough to keep them comfortable. I would rather get into a good warm, soft bed at night without my sui)per, than eat a feast and then sleep on the hard ground, without covering enough to keep me warm. After a hard day's work a good bed is absolutely necessary to prepjire one for the labor and fatigue of tile following day. " In bed we lauiih, in bed we cry, Aud born in bed, in bed we die; The near approach, ii bed may show, Of human bliss to human woe." Any ablebodied man may endure a few nights of cold, comfortless sleep, but it will tell on him .sooner or later; while if he sleep comfort bly and eat *5 AM) OTIIKU lIlNTINCi ADV l.\ IT KKS. KC) lieartilv, lie iiiav eiidm'e ;ni iii('i'e(lii)le aiiioiiut of labor and hardship of other kinds. You may tramp all dav with voiir i'eet wet. and all vour clothiuji' wet, if need be. but be sure you crawl into a good, warm, drv l)ed at uiuht. Old Peau complained of feeling unwell during the evening, and in the morning when wm not up said he was sick. I prepared a good breakfast, but lie could Jiot, or at least wou'd not. eat. Then he told me that he had once fallen down a mountain; that his breast-bone had been crushed in bv striking on a sliai'p rock, and that it always hurt him since when doing any hard work. He said the climb n[) the mountain with the pack was too hard for him and he was i)layed out, that he could go no farther. Here was another bitter disappointmHnt,as we were yet two miles from the top of the mountain, and in going that distance a perpendicular asct^it of from 2,(K»() to 8,000 feet must be made. I deliberated, therefore, as to whether I should go up the mount- ain alone and let Pean go back, but decided it would be useless. I could not carr\' more load than my sle,'i)ing-bag. gun, et(\. and therefore could bring no game down with me if 1 killed it, not even a head or skin. Beside, if he went back he would take his canoe, and I would be left with no rueans of crossing the lake, fso the (mly thing to be done was to pack up and retrace our stei)s. On our way down we stoi)ped and took the head and skin ott of the deer killed the dav befoiv, and I cai'rind them to the canoe. Arriving at the lake, we pulled again for Chehalis in a cold. disagreeal)le rain. 1 stojjped I % \ur, (•uiisi.\(is IN riiK ( \s( Ai)i:s. iit the liot .siiiiiin's oil my way down, and took my leave of my host. Mi'. Jjiown, wlio had been so kind 1o me, and wlio regret tetl my ill luck ahnost as mnch as i did. '. i i] ■ji M ClIAPTEl? Xill. iX our ivtuni lo Clicliiilis— that town of unsavoiy odors and saliiioii-dryiii^", silinoM-sniokiiii;' Si\vasli«'s — I at once omplo\>'d t\v(i otlitT Indians, named .Jolin and Seymour, an 1, on tlis; followinii; day we stai'fed up Ski-ik-kul Creek, to a lake of the same name, in wliicli it lieads ten miles back in the mountains. The Indians claimed that goats, or sheep, as they call them, av<'1v plentiful on the cliffs surrounding this lake, and that we could kill plenty of them from a I'aft while floating np and down along the shores. Seymour claimed to lia\ e killed twenty-three in March last, just after the winter snows had gone olf, and a ])arty of seven Siwashes from Chehalis had kilh'd ten about two weeks pre- vious to the date of my visit. Such glowing accounts as these built uj) my hopes again to such a height as to banish from my mind all recollection of the bitter disa[)p()intment in which the former expediti^m had ended, and, although the rain continued to fall heavilv at shoit intervals, so that the nnderbrush leeked with damimess and drenching showers ft»ll from every bush we touched, I trud.!:ed cheerilv alonn" legardless of all discom- forts. The iirst two miles up the creek, we had a good, open trail, but at the end of this we climbed a steep, (107) I los () fe«*t lii'i'h, sind made the pea ter poi'tioii of tliH reinaiiiiiii;' distance at an aveia() or 4<)() feet deep, to go at once down into another still deeper, and so on. Fire had run through a large tract of this country, killing out all the larue timber, and many trees have since rotted ;iway and fallen, while the blackened and barkless trunks of others, with here and there a craggy limb, still stand as mute monuments to the glory of the forest before the dread element laid it waste. We camped that night at the base of one of these great dead lirs ai'ound which lay a cord or more li AM) oTHKii iirxTiN*; ADVKN rii;i:s. lou of (►Id dry hurk that had hlhrn lioni it, and wliicli, witli a few dry logs we gatliered, t'lirnislied fuel for a rousing, all-night lire. Witiiin ji few feet of our camp, a clear, ice-cold little rivulet threaded its ser- pentine way down among rocks and ferns, andmade sweet music to lull ns to sleep. After supper, I made for myself the usual l)ed of mountain feathers ( cedar houghs), on which to spread my sleeping-bag. Tills old companion of so many rough jaunts, over plains and mountains, has become as necessary a jiai't of my outlit for such voyages as niy •itie. Whether it journey l)y day, on the hurricane deck of a iiiide, in th i hiitchway of -d canoe, on my shouldei* blades or those of a Siwasji. it always rounds ui> at night to house me against the l)leak wind, the driv- ing snow, or i)ouring rain. I have learned to i)rize it so highly that I can appreciate the sentiments of the fallen monarch, Xapoleo'i. on the lonely island of >>t. Helena, when hewi'ote: •'The bed has become a place of luxury tome. I would not exchange it foi-ali tlie tluones in the woi'ld "" These Indians, like Pean, and. in fact, all oiheivs who have seen the bag, are greatly interested in it. They had never seen anything like it, and watched with undisguised interest the unfolding and pivpar- ing of the article, and when I had crawled into it, and stowed myself snugly away, they looked at each other, grunted and uttered a few of their peculiar guttural sounds, which I iniauined would be, if translated: " Well, I'll be doggoned if that ain't about the sleekest trick I ever saw. Ehi" t . ifl 110 CU«'ISIN(JS IN TIIK (ASt ADKS '' You lujt it's nice to sleep in, but heavy to can y." liy tlie way, some of my readers may never liave seen one of these valuable cami) ai)peiula,u'es, and a des('i'i|>tion ol'itmay interest tiicm. The outei'bai-is made of heavy, bi-own, walerprool' canvas, six I'crt long, three I'eet whU? in the centic, tapered to two I I i tn : « [ UI.UiliAM OK SLKKl'INGli.Vd. feet at the head and sixteen inches at the foot. Above the head of the bag proper, flaps project a foot farther, with which the occupant's head may be completely covei'ed. if desired. These are i)rovided with buttons and button-holes, so that they may be buttoned clear across, for stormy or very cold weather. The bag is left open, from the liead down one edge, two feet, and a iiap is provided to hip over AND oTiii.w iirxiFNi; .\i>\i:n riiM:>. Ill this ojM'lliim'. lentous iiiv .sewed oil llie Iciu', Mild there JUe Ifiittoii lioles in tlie ll;ips so it iiKiy :ilso he buttoned up tiulilly. Iiisich' of tins ciinvMs hni; is anotlier of the same size iiinl shaiie, less ihe head flaps. This is nia(h' of liiiiib sivin witii tiie wool on, and is lined witii oidinary siieetini:', lo kee[) liie wooli'i'oni cojuini;' in diieet (ontact with tiie per- son or clotldnu,-. One or moiv pairs of blankets may l)e folded ajid inserted in this, as may be necessary, for any temperature in wiiich it is to be used. If the weather ))e warm, so that not all tiiis cover- ing is needed over the sleeper, he may shift it to suit the weather and his taste, crawlini;' in on top of as much of it as he mav wish, and the less he has over him the more he will have under him, and the softer will be his bed. Besich' being waier[)roof, the canvas is windproof. and one can button himself up in this house, leaving only an airdu)leat the end of his nose, and sleep as soundly, and almost as com- fortably in a snowdrift on the prairie as in a tent or house. In short, he may be absolutely at home, and comfortable, whei'evei- night linds and no matter what hori'id niu'iitmares he him. n lav have, he can not loU oul of bed or kick olf t ne covers. Nor will he catch a draft of cold air along the north edge of his spine every time he turns over, as lie is liable to do when sleeping in blankets. Xor will his feet crawl out from under the cover and catch chilblains, as thev are liable to do in the old- fashioned way. In fact, this sh^eping-bag is one of the greatest luxuries I ever took into cam}), and if . I \VJ ci:i i>iNtis IN Tin: i A>t adks. any biotlifi' sportsiiiMii wlioiiiiiy ivjul this wants onr, and can not liiid an arcliitrct in iiis nci^lilxniiood capai)]*' of l»uil