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VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD,
PERFOR\tED IN 1785, T786, I787, AND I78S
By CAPT, GEO. DIXOX,
wBt
"^r
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j_]_LLi-U-i:-^n:T^
VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD;
BL'T MORE PARTICULARLY TO THE
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA:
PERFORMED IX 1785, I786, I787, AND T788,
I N
THE KING GEORGE AXD ^T.EXCIURLOrTE, CAPTAINS PORTLOCK and DIXOX.
•1 M
Di-nicATin, HY pi.rmission, 10
Sir JOSEPH BANKS, Bart
' i
By captain GEORGE DIXON.
LONDON: PUBLISHED BY GEO. GOULDIXC,
HAYDn's heap, no. 6, JAMl.H STREET, CUVEM GARDEN.
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'II 'O TME
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T O
Sir JOSEPH BANKS, Bart.
PRESIDENT OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY
S I Ry
AMIDST the doubt and apprehenfwn which natU' •^-^ rally attend an author on fuhmittlng his puhlica- iions to the world, 1 have the pleafure of refleBing, that hy your permijfton I prefix to the following Work the name of a Perfon eminently difiinguified in the literary world, and who, not fatisfied with theoretical know- ledge, has traverfcd the globe in purfuit of ufeful fcience. This permiffion, Sir, mufi flamp a value on the Work, and makes me lefs apprehenfive for its fuccefs.
I beg
,1 DEDICATION.
7 l;rg leave to prcf.nt my mojl grateful achwzvleelg^ ..cuts for this public tcfilmony of your favour ; and am.
With great refpeB, SIR,
Tour mofl ohedknt
Humble Servant,
Ja,i. n«9. J
Georo-c Dixon.
INTRODUCTION.
IN the earlv periods of Navigation, it does not feera that the extenfion of Commerce was altogether the a;m of the enterprizlng Adventurer ; and though gene- rallv patronized by the reigning Powers, where thelede- fcns originated, yet, a thirft after glory, and a boundlcis ambition of adding to the ilrengtli and extent of terr,- torv, on one hand, or a rapacious defire of accumulating wealth, or, perhaps the fame of making dilcovenes, on the other, appear to have been the only objcfts m view.
TlK-re cannot be a greater proof of the truth of this nofuion, than the uniform behaviour of the Spaniards, in llic wliole courlc of their almoll unbounded acquihtions of difcoverv, con(,ueh, and wealth. The fl.ocking barba- tliies praaifed bv them when they conquered what was then called the AV:;. tl'orU, call fuch an indelible ihnnou that period of their annals, as lUnc can never obliterate.
VIIl
INTRODUCTION.
To the honour of the Byitijh Nation be it fald, their condua has uniformly been the reveife : whatever un~ known traas of huid they ha\ c explored ; where\'er they found inhabitants, their attention and humanity towards, them have uniformly been fuch, as to gain their apHlon, and concihate their ^ef.ecm, inllead of exciting their refentr ment, or incurring their hatred.
Indeed, if we regard adventurers from our own Coun- try in a commercial point of \ iew, even fo lately as the latter part of the laft, or beginning of the prefent cen- tury, we fliall find the generality of them little better than free-hooters ; but on the other hand, were we to take a retrofpcaive view of the fevcral voyages made hnmediately under the patronage of Government, during the fpace of the laft fifty years, we lliall not only find them fet on foot for the benefit of mankind in general, but that their endeavours to improve Navigation, and the different Sciences conneaed therewith, ha^ e been attend- ed with the moft brilliant fuccefs ; and it is not eafy to fav, whether that zeal for the general good which firll projeacd thefe voyages, or the conlhmt wiih to have the refult of them made unixerfally public, refleas tlie greatell luftre on their royal and munificent patrons.
Without
ir
iXr
n- he Ti- ter to ide ng nd :al, the id- to irlt die tell
INTRODUCTION.
\\'ithoiit enteiina; into a particular enumciation of thele Vovazes lice, which would be fupcrfluous, let it luHice to fa^, that during the late Captain Coolr's laft Voyage to tli'e Vacitic Ocean, befidcs every fcientihe advantage which might he deriNcd from it, a new and inexhaulhhle mine of wealth was laid open to future Navigators, by trading for furs of the moil %aluablo kind, on the North Well Coal! of America.
This difcoverv, though ob^ ioudy a fource from whence i,mnenfe riches 'might he expected, and conrmumcated, no doubt, to numbers in the year 178°, was not nnme- diately attended to. The profecution of any effeaual plan to cai-ry on this novel undertaking, requn-cd not only patience and perfeverance, but a degree of fpn.t and en- ternri/e which does not often fall to the lot of md.viduals : iJvever, in the Spring of 1785, « ^t of Gentlemen pro- cured a Charter from the South Sea Corapanv, (to whom the exclulise privilege of trading in the Northern Pac.hc Ocean belongs) for the fole right of carrying on th.s traffic ,0 us utmolt extent ; to f .cilitate which, two sclTels were Innnediat.lv purchafed, and fitted out with aUexpeuU.on in order to proceed on a Vo> age to the Isorth ^^ el Coa I of America, an account of which is the Inbjea ot the tol- lowing lliccts.
IS
So
out
i*
1 N T R O D U C T I O N.
So laudable a dcfuc oF cmlnrklng in this new channel of commerce, naiuraliv engaged ^hc anention of the world in -cneral, and the i,adena!...n- wa. appvoN ed oi; and en- coiI^:--cd l)v (;cntlem.a whoie nai-.es aione were lulli- cientm brincv ,he \\n-ap;e U»to pulmc notice. The Right Honourable Lord Mulgra^ c, Sir Joleph Banks, and Mr. Pole, honoured us with a vlfit on board ; and with that dc- .^ree of goodnefs which cNcr dilVmguiihes their charaaers, f.o-nihcd their approbation of the plan, and bell wilhes lor. its fuccels.
Tliefe verv ilattering encouragements were additional Inducements for the Cwners to pvoiecute the undertaking wkh \igour ; and nolinngwas left unattempted, that could pombl/be thought of, to rencfer it iuccefsful \Vhate\ er furs might he procured in our tralllc on die American Coall, were to be difpofed of in China, fubjea to the im^ mediate controul of the Eail India Company's Supr rar- goes and in confequencc of this coniignment, bodi ^ .' h were to be freighted home on the Companx \ account.
But pecuniarv emolument did not altogetb.er engrofs the attention of the Owners on this occaiion ; for in addi- tion to the pro\ifions ufually allowed in Merchants fer- Nice, (and ui' which the greatctl care was taken to prccur
e the
.1
)•
d
:r 11 I-
ii-
r- re lie
I N T R O D U C 1' I O N.
the ven- bell of every kina) a plentiful ftock of all the vu,ons'antifco,lnaics w.s laid in which could be thought ,f as nrefenatives to health. Thefe, and an unrem.tt.ng atunuion to the rules oblen cd by Capt..in Cook, have, „,Klei- ITovulencc, been the n.eans of prelervmg the health of the people, .n every variety of dimate ; for dur- 1„. the prefent Voyage, which has been of more than tluce years continuance, the f ueen Charlotte, out ot thirty -three hands, loft only one perfon.
Though a knowledge of ibis circumftance is of the uc- nroll importance to all perfons who are engaged ,n a fea- foring hfe, and therefore can never be made too publ^, vet that alone would fcarcely have been thought a iuftr- cient inducement to oublilh the following Work ; but >t k prelumed that the advantages which both Geograpliy and Commerce will derive from this Voyage, are neither uninterehing or unimix,rtant ; fo that there perhaps will need no apology for laying the refult of it before the woikl.
In order that the Reader may form a better "idea of the -,dvanta..es which mav be derived from this pul.lication, '-, brief "recapilulaiion «f what has beCL. done bv former Naviyators on the American Coail, an<l part.calarl;. wnr.i
^ K n iukhtiou
XI
lu INTRODUCTION..
addition wc have made to the late Captain Cook's Difco- verles, together with a lliort account of the fur trade, may perhaps not be improper in this place.
The RulTian Na\igator, Beering, fecnis to Iku'c been- the firil who explored this inhofpitable coalt to the Norths ward of King George's Sound : he is fald to ha\e fallen in v/ith the land in 58 dcg. 28 min. North latitude, and to have anchored in 59 deg. 18 min. Tfcherikow, in 1741,. anchored about the latitude 56 deg.
That both thefe Navigators fell in with the American' Coail, is beyond a doubt ; but in what fituation they made the land, or where thev anchored, is by no means equally certain. The bell: accounts we luue of thefe Wnao-cs are very inaccurate ; and it Ihould be remembered, that Navigation at that period of time was b)' no means brought to the perfection which it is in at prefent : add to this, the co;ili in the lituation w! -ch Beerin(>- is fald to have anchored in, viz. 59 degrees 18 minutes North la- titude, trends nearly Eail and \Xvi\ ; fo ijiat in ihc Hate Na\lgatlon v/as in at that time, a millake of hx or eiij;ht degrees in longitude miglit be eafily made ; and therc^ Is- great reafon to fu])pofe, that though this celebrated Navi- gator might be correa in his latitude, yet the place he. ■^ adually
INTRODUCTION.
xm
aiTtually ancliorcd in is much nearer Cook's Rl\'er than Is ulually laid down in the charts.
th^ in to.
\.i,.
But whilll: we lament the imperfefl ftate of Navigation, and the fllU more imperfeft accounts given to us of this famous Ruffian's Vovages, which entirely prevent us to fay what part of the coall, at leall within our limits, lie furveyed with any degree of precifion, it is no lefs incumbent on me to deteft the fallacy of a more modern Navigator on the fame coaJh
an- dc lly
lat ns dd to
. i -
te ht is' i- le,
ly
In the Journal of a ^^ovage to the Nortli Weft Coaft of America, bv Don Francifco Antonio Maurelle, pub- lilhed by the Hon. Mr. Daines Harrington, after ftating what they had already done, is the following paifage : — *' We now attempted to lind out the Straight of Admiral Fontc, though as vet we had not difcovered the Archi- pelago of St. Lazarus, through which he is faid to ba\e failed, ^\'ith this intent we fearclied cjcrv hay ami Vc- ccfs on the coatl, and failed round every head-Uuid^ lyntg- ,v in the nhrht^ that we might not lole fight of tliis en- trance. After ihele pains taken, and being favoured hy. a North IVe/t -ziz/id, it rnav be pronounced that no fuch. Straidits are to be iound."''
WhN
■*^ See Barringttn's MilcJlanies, page 50^.
'fo'
filv I N 7' R O D U C T I O N.
W\\y M.iuR'IIc llioukl (o pofit'uclv alTjit n pal| >!)lc fall'jhoocl, it ii iiol ealv to conceive. liKlecd the incon- liKC^niA of iliis allertioii ni t\' he cafilv iecii, if we conlider it Irjt for ():ie moment; for.if he actiialh had " fcarchcd rvrrv Ihw (7,'.v/ /vr'/i- on fhc ccuift. and fa'' ltd round cirrv bead-land, Ivin'^-lo in the ni'/b:,"" c'vcu with the fair wind he fpeaks of, all this, I la\-, could not pollil)lv have hecn done during twice the ipacc of time he was on this part of the coaih But the diicovery of Queen Charlotte's 'I (lands during the prelent Vovage, inconteftihlv p.o\es that Don Francifco Maurelle was ne\er near tlie place which he hoaihs of ha\'ing " looked for in ^vain:' The lituation of thefe lilands, viz. from 54 deg. 20 min. to 51 deg. 56 min. North latitude, and from 130 to 133 '^■.^^^. 30 min. Welt longitude, evidently lliews that they ;u"e the Archipelago ot St. Lazarus, and conlequently near the Straight of De Fonte, though flirther refearches iwvSS. he made hefore ajiy degree of credibility can be given to his pompous account of the place.
However, if the Spaniards on this occajwn could find no illai'Js where they at^Hially exii}, at other times they ha\ e dilcovered land which we now find to he im,ii>-inarv. The itlaixls Los Majos, La Maio, and :5t. Maria la Gorta, laid down hv Mr. Roberts, from 18 deo;. ;o min. to 28 2 deg.
INTRODUCTION.
deg. North latitude, and from 135 dug. to 149 dog. Wert longitude, and copied by him from a Spanifli M.S. chart, were in vain looked for hy us, antl, to ufe Mau- relle's words, '' // ma\' he pronouncul that no fiicb Ijlancls are to he found ;" fo that their intention has uniformly been to millead rather than be of fervice to future Na- vigators.
To expatiate on the abfurditv, not to call it bv li worfe name, of fucli conduct, would be painful ; let us then turn from lb difagreeable a fubjed, and lav a few words refpefting the Difcoveries of our immortal coun- tryman, the late Captain Cook.
XV
This celebrated Navigator fell in with the America it Coaft in 44 deg. North latitude, but had no opportunity of coming to anchor till he arrived at Nootka, which he named King George's Sound. It is fituated in 49 ^^zg. 36 min. North latitude; and 126 deg. 42 min. Weil lont''itude.
On leaving this harbour, he was prevented by bad wea- ther from keeping in with the coart,'' and did not again
lee
* At noon (v.i the zl'th Ar-'l, 1778, the latitude hy obforvation w.i-,, ci deg. I nii>,. Notch; lon^iude 229 di'g. 26 min. I'a'i. I now Htepai
N(jrrh
:^. I I N T R O n U C T I O N.
tec t1ic land till he was in llic lalituclc of ^^ dug. iO -min. NdiiIi. After this, Captain Cook had trcncrally an oppoitunitv of keejiing the eoail a-honrd ; he afccr- lained tlic lituation of Cape Kdgecnmhe, difcovcred KaNe's Illand, Prince William's Sound, and Cook's Ri- \er, in which two hill mentioned places he came to an- chor.
To fav that thefe ditferent harhours are laid down with accuracv and precilion, wouKl he unnecenarv ; it is fuffi- cient toohferve, thatthev were lur\eyed hy Captain Cook,
It
Norrh \W^ by N'ortli, wit!- a frcfli gnle ar South South Eaft, and fair weather; but at nine in the evenii.g if began agiin to lilow hard and in. fqualls, with rain. With I'lieh weather, and tlie wind l)ifueen South South Mali and South \\'e;>, I continued tlie lame courle till the 50th, at four in the moinirg, when I lleered North by \'\'eft, in order to make the land. I regretted ver\ mueb., indeed, that 1 could not do it fooncr ; for this obvious realbn, that we were now jnilling the place where Geo- g ijiher', ha\e pi iced the jiictei-ided Straiglit ot' Admiral de Fonte. For my own pai', I give n(^ creiiit to lueh \ague and improbable (lories, which carry their own confutation with them. Neverthelef^, I -.sa', very tlelirous ut keqji g the American Coalt a-board, in order to clear up this point l)evund itilpute. Hut if would have been hij!,hly impiudent m me to have cn;;aged with the land in weather fo exccedmgly tempelUious. or to have loll the advantage of a fiir wind, by waiting for better weather. Till. I.une day at noon wc were in latitude 53 deg. 22 min. .North; and loiigiiude 22^ deg. 14 min. l^all. bee Cuuk's Voyage to the Tacific Ocean, \'ol. li. page 343.
INTRODUCTION.
xvn
20
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fair id in. uuth 1, at nakc •ncr ; Gco-
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point ic to or to thcr. and icitic
It is needlefs to trace this excellent Navigator's Diico- veries any farther to the Northward, as they are uncon- ne£ted with the prefcnt Voyage, and their importance is well known to the world ; but it mav be neceflarv to ohierve, that Captain Cook met with furs only in Cook's River, Prince William's, and King George's Sounds, io that thefe places were moll likely to engage the attention of any perfons who lliould engage in that branch of com- merce.
Who the Gentlemen were that firft embarked in the fur-trade, is perhaps not generally known, though it is certain they were not hardy enough to fend veflels in that employ direftly from England ; for we find, that the firft vefTel which engaged in this new trade was fit- ted out from China : flie was a brig of fixty tons, com- manded by a Captain Hanna, who left the Typa in April, 1785. His deltination was for King George's Sound, where he arrived the following Auguft.
Soon after his arrival, the natives attempted to board his veffel in open day, but were repulfed with confidc- rable (laughter : this affair fecured the friendfhip of the Indians, for thcv afterwards traded quietly and peaceably. Captain Hanna is fliid to have procured a valuable cargo
c of
xvill INTRODUCTION.
of furs, tliough the nunibcr has nc\'cr been mentioned.*' He left Nootka tlie latter end oi' September, and arrived at Macao the end of December of the fame vcar. Tlie lame Gentleman failed again from iMacao in Mav, 1786, in the Sea Otter, of one" hundred and twenty tons, and arri\ed at King George's Sound in Auguih The fuc- cefs he met with in this expedition was never made known, but no doubt it was greatlv inferior to that of his former \ovage: he arri\ed at Macao in Februarv, .787.
The fnow Lark, Captain Peters, of two hundred and twenty tons and forty men, failed from Macao in July, 1786. Captain Peters had orders to make the North Weil Coall, by way of Kamfchatka, and was direded to examine t.ie iilands to the Northward of Japan. He ar- rived at Kamfchatka the 20th of Auguil, and left that place the 18th of September. Accounts ha\e inice been recei\ed, that this NelTel was loll on Copper llland, and that only two of the people were fa\ed.
In the beginning of T 786, the fnow Captain Cook, of three hundred tons, and the fnow Experiment, of one
huiidicd
♦ A parric;;lar nccount nf tlu- furs vAvch hav hw -olUii^:, ,ui the Nyiui WcU Cuall, will be j^iua m luc loilow.ug V, ,,, -,
INTRODUCTION.
liundrecl tons, were fitted out from Bombay. Thcfc vcf* Ibis arrived at Nootka the end of June following; from thence thev proceeded to Prince WiUiam's Sound. After fome Itay there, they left the coalt, and afterwards ar- rived fafe at Macao ; but the quantity of furs they pro- cured is fuppofed to have been very inconfiderable.
In the Spring of the fame vcar, 1786, two veHels were fitted out from Bengal, viz. the Nootka, of two hundred tons, Captain Meares, and the Sea Otter, of one hundred tons, Captain Tipping.
Captain Meares failed from Bengal in March, and an account of his dellination is given in tlie following Work, as he was met with by us in Prince William's Sound.
The Sea-Otter, Captain Tipping, left Calcutta a {t\v days after t]\e Nootka. Her delHnation was for Prince ^Vil^uun'h Sounds v/here llie arrived in September, whilft the Captain Cook and the I'",xperiment were there. She left the Sound the day after, fuppofed for Cook's River, but ha\ ing ne^ er fince been heard of, there can be but Jittle doubt of her beino- loll.
XIX
c 2
The
mmammm
ax INTRODUCTION.
1 iic Imperial Eagle, Captain Berkley, left Oilencl the latter end of No\ ember, 1786, and arrived at Nootka tlu: beginning of June, 1787. Some account of his ex- pedition will be met with in the prefcnt Voyage.
Hi\ ing given a brief abllra£l of the different Voyages which ha\ e hitherto been made to the North Well Coall of America, I cannot help noticing an expedition that was planned prior to any of them, and which, had it been carried into execution, mull: have proved exceed- ingly advantageous to tlie Proprietors, and very proba- l)ly would have entirely engroffed this lucrative branch of commerce.
So early as 1781, William Bolts, Efq; fitted out the Cobenzell, an armed Ihip of 700 tons, for the North- Weil Coalt of America. She was to have failed from Trieilc (accompanied by a tender of forty-five tons) un- der Imperial colours, and was equally htted ovit for trade or dilcovery : men of eminence in every department of fcicnce were engaged on board ; all the maritime Courts of Europe were written to, in order to fecure a good re- ception for thele \effels, at tlieir rcfpcaive ports, and favourable anfwcrs were returned; vet, after all, tbi* expedition, fo exceedingly promifmg in e\ery point of
\iew,
I N T R O D U C T I G X,
view, was overturned by a fct of interefted men, then in power at Vienna.
This fliort fketch of what has yet been done in the fur trade, will ferve to iliew that the attention of every trader for Ikins on the American Coall has been hxcd on Cook's River, Nootka, and Prince WiUiam's Sound : bat the Reader will find, on perufing this Voypge, r.hat a greater quantity of furs may reafonably be expected in many parts of the coal^, than at the harbours jull mentioned, and will not, I hope, accufe me of vanity in afTrrting, that a more fpirited undertaking was never let on foot by individuals, on true conunerc'ial principles .
What additions we have made to the difcovcries of Captain Cook, may eafily be l^en, by calling an eye on the annexed general chart. However, as tVe whole of it is not laid down from my owniurvey, it will be but juf- tice for me to mention the different authorities from which . 1 ba\e taken the remainder.
From thcKodiac of C apt pin Cook, (wl/ich is the Wcf-
termoll- part of the chart) to Whitfunclay oay. Is the fame
as pubillh.cJ iiO ' '"' I'^/cain Cook's furvcy ; from thcrcc
to Cape Bcu;'...^ X tiaVJ takwUi from the track of the fnow
o Ni;otka,
XXi
■■«
KMl
INTRODUCTION.
Nootka, C;4ptain INIcares, which chart was put Into inv hands l)\' ATr. Kois, Chief i\ hue, and the track is marked Avith a dotted hue. From Cape Douglas to Cook's Ri- ver, and as far to the Southward and Eallward as Port- lock's HarhoLir, is laid down from Captain Portlock's and mv own fur\ ev ; and here we differ in feveral places from the general Chart of Captain CooL
From Portlock's Harhour as far Southward as Bcres- ford's Ille, is entlreh' laid down from my own fur\'ey.
The untliaded part of the chart, from \\''oody Point round to Capj Cox, is taken from two charts which Mr. Cox \ er\- ohlio^luiilv favoured me with ; the one bv Cap- tain Guife, Commander of the fnow Experiment ; the other hv Captain Hanna, Commander of the hiow Sea- Otter ; and from Point Breakers South, is from a chart hv Captain Berkley, Commander of the Imperial Eagle.
It vet rcmaliis for me to helpeak the candour and in- dul;^cnce of the reader, in perullii:'- tl-.e followiiiLi \\^)rk, as it was wrlucn h\ a perlon on !)<)ird the Queen Char- lotte, who has been totalK' unufed lohtcarv purhiits, and equahv lo to a leadaiing lite. I]owe\er, to oh\iate any objck^iion that migiit pollll)ly arile from his deficiency in 2 nautical
.li
INTRODUCTION.
nautical knowledge, I have been particularly careful in corredting that part of the Work, and by way of Appen- dix, have oiven every thing of the kind which, in my opi- nion, can be any way interetting to a feaman ; as alfo a fliort fketch of the few fubjefts we have met with in Natural Hillory, that are likely to engage the attention of the curious ; and I hope that a plain narrati\ c of faBs^ written at the time when the different occurrences hap- pened, will prove interelling, though deficient in fmooth- nels of lany;aage, or elegance of compofition.
G. D.
XXIU
S!K
CONTENTS.
INTRODUCTION
LETTER
I. REASONS for ivrithig an account of the Voyage
If. Account of the veffels and their dejlination
III. Leave the River — anchor at Gravefend — leave that place — vieet ivith a heavy gale of ivind in the Donuns — Arrival oj the
fips at Spithead _ _ - - -
IV. Short account of Spithead and Port/mouth
V Pafage from Spithead to Guernfey — In danger off the Cajketts
— arrival at Guernfey — defer ipt ion of if VI. Departure from Guernfey— pick up a cafk oficinc at fea —
pafs by Madeira, and fend letters from thence to London \U. Pafs by Palma, Ferro, and Bonavif a— arrival at St.
Jago, and tranfiBions there _ _ -
VIH. Account of St. Jago and the inhabitants
IX. Departure from St. Jago— an account of crojjing the line, and fundry other occurrei^ces _ - -
X. Continuation of the paffage from St. Jago to Falkland's Jj/ands — arrival there - _ - -
XI. Employments engaged in ivbil/l at Falkland's I/lands — an account of them and their produtlions
XII. Pafige from Falkland's J/lands round Cape Horn
XIII. 'The pafage from Cape Horn to O-.dybce
XIV. Difappointed in veatering at Oidyhee—purchafe icater at Whahoo—leave that place— proceed to On:ehoii\ and there procure a Jiock of yams - " " *
Page I
8 II
i(>
i>7
27
3^
43 46
55
1^
>XVT
CONTENTS.
lp:tter
XV. P(^pge f'Ofn the Sandivich IJJands to Cook's Rkcr—mccf there icitbn party of Ruffiam—comc to anchor in Coal Harbour
X\'I. Further account of the proceedings in Cook's River, toge- ther li'ith ajhort defer iption of the adjacent country
XVII. Pa [[age from Cook's River a /org the Coaft
XMII. Continuation of the proceedings along the Coaft from Cook's River to King George's Sound - - -
XIX. Prevented by bad ^.veather from making King Georges Sound—Refections thereupon
XX. Recount of the furs colle^ed in C^k's Riverain tiic paf- fa're from the Coali to Sandwich I/Iands, look out for St Maria l^ Qoyta—tirrival at the Sandwich Ifands
XXI. Tr an factions with the natives whiljl among the Sandwich jf.^uhh — Come to anchor at U'hahoo
XXII. Pur chafe wood and water at U'hahoo—Defcription of the King's Nephews— Jn attempt to jieal the whale-boat frufi itted - - - -
XXIII. Further account of the tranfatTions at Whahoo—the fips leave that if and, and proceed to Atom
XX I \'. Provifons^ wood, water, eft', furchafd at Atom — the f.ips leave that place and proceed to Oneehow—the King George arrives there— is obliged to cut her cables and proceed
again to Jea XX\'. 'The vfels leave Oneehow and arrive at Afoui — Iriend-
fipfewH b^ tie Chief there— receive a vi/it from the King XXVI. y//! exeurfon on fore at Atoui— friendly reception there
—diiuier prepared by fheira— account of the taro plant at i'.ns,
and various other ■ranjatlions - - ~
XXN'II. "The f.ips leave yltoui and proceed to Oneehow — recover
the anchors If there by tie King George— leave Oneehow, and
jail t!ga':n Jor Aicui
Page 6r
65
72
78
90 96
109
''7
12
^S
13-
140
m
¥
CONTENT S.
XViU
LETTER
XXVIII. Rciifons given for not fioppiug at Oiccdnii'—papzc from the Samhvich IJhwds to tlv North JVcJl Coaf—mijhke
dijcovcred in Captain Cook's general Chart—come to anchor at Montague Ifland - - " '
XXIX. Indians, come into the harbour ii;ho fpeak Englifli— ^'/v Jhips proceed towards Prince JVilliams Sound— Captain Dixon
makes an excurfion to Snug Corner Cove— finds a vejjel tfjerc from Bengal— account of the diftref they had undergone
XXX. T/jc King George's k?ig-l)oat fent to Cook's River— a fifing party in danger of being cut off by the Indians— the vefeh leave Montague I/land, and aft e near ds f par ate— the ^leen Charlotte arrives at Port Mulgrave
XXXI. rranfiBions at Port Mulgrave— account of the inha- l)ltants— their method of ffing— cooking— burial places— cr-
tides not liked in traffic
XXXII. Departure from Port Mulgr.:v-—crrival at Norflk Sound, and tranfatlions there
XXXIII. Defcription of Norfolk Sound—the number of inha- l^itants— their manners, cufoms, ami method of trade
XXXIV. Leave Norfolk Sound— proceed along the Coaf— ar- rival at Port Banks— defcription of that place, and tranjacl ions there— leave Port Banks and proceed along the Coajl—mcct •with Indians ivho pofefs fome very fine furs
XXXV. Trade with various tribes oj Indians along the Coa/l — great number of excellent furs procured— Hippah I/land df- ^■^^red—-ari^.us articles ujed in barter — a lip-piece [ur-
chajed - - - ' ~
XXXV I. Continuafion of trap: with the Indians along the C-;aii.—reafons Jor fuppcfug toat the land now crafng akng is ^
. agroupcofifunds not beJcredifcovered—iUfcnptiuicJ one of the Lhiefs - - - - "
<l 2
Pjjre
■T3
15S
160
'77
1 ;-,4
19.-:
199
209
219
B
xsvnr
CONTENTS.
LI-.TTIR
XXXVII. jh tempt of the induun to ftcalfun—in danger r^f
Cape St. Jcp-ies—tle hiful miv Jdlhi in ■loith, nrmJ '^aeen
Charlottes llhuuh—^^eneral defcription of the inhabitants—
fall in ^vithf^o Eaglijh irf/els ".eho had been in King George's
Sao/I, ana found there a Jhip from Ojhnd
XXXMII. General account of the American Coafl—the num- ber of inhabitants— their temper— dijpolit ion— method of traf- j;^^r.,jrious fpecimens of their language - - ^
XXXIX. Departure from the Coaf of America— paffagc from thence to the Samhvich Jjlands— arrival at Oichyhee—tranf- a&ions there — come to anchor at JVhahoo—purchafc wood and
icater there
XI.. Depart jrom IVhahoo, ami proceed to Atoui—tranfaclions th:rt—a remarkable injlance of feeling in one of the Chiejs— 'reneral account cf the Sandiitich Ifands
XLI. Account of the Sandwich Jfands continued— their man- i-.rs—cuji'yms—drefs—diverfons, and a fpecimen of their lan- guage - " - " "
XLII. Departure from the Sand\c!ch Ijlands—pafs by tinian —
Arrival at Macao - - - '
XLili. Proceed to iramfo—tranfaelions there— arrival of the Kins; George— death of Mr. M'Leod, Captain Porthck's Chief
Mate - - - - '
XLIV. Further account of tranfaBions at Canton— the furs fold
— realhns given for their tict fetching a better price— the Jhips
leave IVampo and proceed to Macao XLV. General account of Canton— defcription of the inhabi-
f^ints — their manners and cufloms — their commerct — the prouuce
of the country— religion, <Sc. - - "
XL\'I. Particular account of the fur-trade
r.'gc'
23+
246
254 264
280 288
29S
3°5
322
^
CONTENTS.
XXIX^
LETTER
XL\'II. The P:ips h-ave Macao— death of Mr, Lauder, Sur- geon to the '^let'/i Charlotte— proceed through the Straights of ^Banca and Sunda— anchor at North IJland—in danger off livva Head - -
XL VII I. lie vffch part company— a heavy gale of ivind—the pumps choaked Sith find— got up and cleared- double the Cape of Good Hope - - - -
XLIX. Jrrival at St. Helena— fnd there the King George — departure from thence and arrival in England
Pace
33^
348
352
NATURAL HISTORY.
Crab from the Sandwich Jjlands defcribed
Ne^v genus of Jheli from ditto - - - ^
New genus- of Jhclls from the Coafl of America, with a defcrip-
tion of each - ~ , ~
Ditto from Falkland's Jjlands - - -
The Tellow tufted Bee- Eater from Sandwich Jfands defcribed The White winged Crofs-V ill from Montague I/land defcribed Ihe Patagonia:: IVarbler from Falkland's IJlands defcribed The Joeofe Shrike from China defcribed
353
355 356 357 35B 359 360
]■ R R A T A.
E R
T A.
Pa(;E 56, line 23, for longitude 152 ck's. u miu. read 150
P -7 1. 2 for latitude 51 des. read 51 deg. 24 min. and longi-
tilde 1J.0 de'j". 'J 1 rni'^' Ibid ,3 f<"-^'-S--'^ H7 'lefT. :S min. read h'J <!eg. 34 mm, bid: .: .8. for ionr... M9 'WS. 5= mi.. .M l^f^^^ "- Ibid 1 2+, fo, longitude 15. aeg. ,3 nun. rcuu i,. deg. 4 nun.
and foi latitude 58 deg. . 4 """• - -^'1 sS J-^S- 3+ m."- p " I .2. •,;!<■. r, for latitude 58 .leg. and lof^.tude 137 deg.
■,8 min: read l-'. SJ deg. 35 "tin. and long. .jy.l^S- -.^mm- P -6 1 ,4. foi longitude i3vdes. 22 mm. read 133 <!!,•.■.< ":"■ r:S6;i.2 forlongl.ade■54.l0S..4min.v.■.d,5."cg=4-;;■ P ,u6 1. 3, for ioii^:. Je .34 'leg. Hiim"-^^"-' • 3. ' -i' ■-"■:"• V. \t ,. ,;■ forlcn.ritiKle ,34deg. ^6 nun. read ij+dcg. 30 mm. P K,!', 1. 20, for 1' ngi. de 1 y deg. 5= ",m. read ,34 deg _ V '05 1. .0, for latitude 53 ''eg. ■■(■ nin. read 53 '^S- =;' ">'". p' .",2 1. 3, for latitnde 3. d-g. 46mia. read 51 deg. 30 mm. >■ :]: 1. ; for latitude ■,:, deg. 56 min. read 5. deg. 4 ""»; V. :X 1. m. for - our founding, /^.'/r read " our lonnding,,
P .« 1. ;. for South ,- deg. Eaft. read South ; .leg ^^eft
V. 2I7, 1. :;, for " -.ioial and vegetable fubllaneeV read anr-
nial fubuances." ik „•,-..
p. ,63, 1. 25, read " cocoa-palm, banana, and pper-mulbc.iy
trees.
DirccTions for the Binder.
THE Chart to face
Sketch of a Bay South fide of Whahoo
A View hi the Bay of W'hahoo
A view of the Volcano in Cook's River
Views of Cape St. Hermugenes, Staten's Land, and
llland Sketch of Port Mulgrave • - -
Ditto of Norfolk Sovuid - *
The Dilh and Daggers View of Cape Edgecumbc - -
Sketch of Port Banks
View of Hippah llland • -
The Lip -piece and Spoon View of Cape St. James, iS:c. The Woman from Queen Charlotte's liL's The Indian's Song Cancer Raninus, upper Jidc Ditto ditto, wider Jidt' Apex Fulva
Yellow t\iftcd Bee-F.ntcr White winged Crofs- Bill Patagonian Warbler Jocule Shrike
Title-page, Page 54
- 55 62
Montague
7^
170
184, 188
193
205
203
214 226
242
353 354- 355 357 35^ 35'>
l()0
e 54
55 62
VOYAGE, &c.
72 170
184,
188
193
205
20S 214 226
24J
354- 355 357 35^
.^5'>
36a
LETTER I,
DEAR HAMLEN^
"V X T'HEN I took leave of thee at my departure from London, W thou prclled me with all the warmth of fiicndlhip to fend thee not only a dcfcription of every country and j^lace I might have an opportunity of feeing, but a minute account of every circumlliance (however trivial) that fhould occur during my naval ])ercgrination. 1 Ihall endeavour to ftdlill ihy requcll with the greatcll plcafure, and that not only for thy amufcmcnt, but for the employment of my own leifure hoiu's. As thy nauticul cxcur- fions (if I millake not) never reached farther than Dentford or Black-wall, I an\ Icfs apprehenfive of any blunders I may make in the \ii'e of terms relating to navigation, as it will not be in thy power to laugh at my expenco ; ami I know thy generolity too well, to think tlioc capable of expoling my ignorance to ll'.' ridicule
A of
17S5- Augiill,
A VOYAGE TO THE
of pi-ofclhonal men. However, Avhr.t I may fcml. whether good or bad, will, I flatter myillf, be acceptable to thee, if for no other realbn but that it comes from alRiredly thine,
Or AVl'SEND, ?
29th Augiiil. J
L E T T E R n.
DEAR IIAMLF.S,
BEFORE I proceed to inform thee of any Tea occurrences, it will be neceilary to mention a few ])rcvic)us particulars, for thy better information. Before I came on board, my idea ot the Voyage was fo very imperfect, that it was out of my power to give thee any noticm of our dclVmation. I now can tell thee, that during the late Captain Cook's laft Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, it was'' found that it\vould be eafily practicable to eftablilh a valu- able Fur Trade on the American Coalf, aiul to difpofeof them to great advantage at China. I'hough this was fo long fmcc as the year 17S0, yet the profecution of any ^lan lay dormant till Spring lad, when a fet of gentlemen procured n charter from the South Sea Company, and were incorporated tor the exprefs puri)ofe of carrying on this trade to the hM ailvantage ; to facilitate uhich, tiiey purchafed two velleis, and got them ready for lading with all expedition,
Tlie
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
sod
s, It for ■ the give that :ean, 'ahi- m to s the )nng outh )l'c of hich, with
The
The larger Ihip is called the King George, and con\nianded by Captaii\ Portlock (who is commander in chief for the voyage) and the fmallcr vclicl (which I am on board) the Queen Charlotte, con:mandcd by Captain Dixon.
Thefe gentlemen were appointed to the command of this expe- dition witii peculiar propriety, not only as able navigators, but (having been thij voyage with Captain Cook) they well knew what parts of the Continent were likely to afford us the bell trade ; and could alfo form a tolei-able idea of the temper and difpofition of the natives : add to this, they are men of feeling and humanity, and pay the moft ftricl attention to the health of their ihips com- panies, a circumftance of the utmoll confequence in a voyage of fuch length as this feems likely to be. Haviiig premifed thus far, I Ihall proceed to acquaint thee of every circumilance relating to the Voyage, but having an opportunity of forwarding this, I have only time to fay, that I am well and truly thine.
17S5.
\V. B.
Gr 291!
AVF.SEND, 7 til Augllll. 3
LETTER IIL
I COT on board the Qiicen on Saturday evening the 27th A\tguft, and was received with great civility by my mefs-mates, who were the Firll, Second, and Third Mates, the Surgeon, and
th«
Aa-,u:K
A VOYAGE t6 THE
the Captain's Clerk. The Doaor (a youns Scotchman of two and twenty) very kindly explained to me the nature and ctconomy ofoiir mefs, and every other particular as fiw as time would penr,it. When bed-time came on, 1 v. as in a lad dilcninia, for my cot had been fent bv millake on b():i;d the K'uvx (icorge ; but my friend tlie Doclor veiy kindly olilavd nae jxirt of his, which 1 accepted with reluclance, as I was ll-nfible it would greatly incommode him : however, we made tolerable ihift. About midnight, the cot broke down, ar.d my fituation was truly difagreeable ; but I chofe to bear it patienvlv, rather thati dilhirb my companion ; but " the "■rev morn in ruliet mantle clad" was never more welcome to any one, than the approach of this was to me.
The fituation of life which I am now entering upon, being nlto-^-ether new to me, I mull inforn\ tb.ee of the plan I have laid down for tlic regulation of my future conducf ; and 1 hope thou v.ilt join v.ith me in thinking it the mofi probable method of fecuring to myfelf a tolerable Ihare of happinefs and tr.ui([uiHity du'.ing mv vovage. As I am a perfect dranger to every perlon on board, and ctpially (o to the manners and cui.foms of a fea- faring life, I ani determined to afiimilate myfelf as much as poilib'e to both, or, as Chcft-eriield jihrafes it, t.) be " All thirigs to all men." This, I am afraid, will be no eafy talk, but furely tlie object in view is well worth any pains I can take to attain it.
I know thee to be fo fond of characters, that thou ait already impatient to be acquainted with thoie of my (hip-UMites ; but d-vn't be t(jo nnieh in a hurry ; at a future (opportunity I perhaps may oblige thee with an attempt of the deli, riptive kind.
Our
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
two )my nit. had end ncd \n\ :
cot liofc
tlie any
cnig laid :hou d of illity n on iring 'c to K'n. cl ill
•cady
Imt liaps
Our
Our pil(;t being conic on hoard, and every thing being ready for failing, we weighed anchor on the 29th, at 9 o'clock in the morn- , ing, and Hood down the rlvc. f:r CMavefend. The profpea on eacii ilk the river, though not 10 enriched with gentlemen's feats, or piciviuc grounds, as beyond London the otlier way, is tridy pleaiini: : it ailbrds man.y extenlive vicvvs, wliich are agreeably vyrie-ated, ana incontelbbly prove, that Nature alone is often fupedor to the utniolt rerinenicnt^ of Art. The wind and tide being in our favour, we came to anchor at Ciiavcfend about two o'clock. Near this place is Tilbury Fort, the fight of which reminded me of G, A. Stevens's Politician, in his celebrated Lec- ture on L^eads. Aficr dinner, I went with the Surgeon in one of our boats to Gravelcnd, to pui chafe fomc neccflaries for onr mefs, and to gratify my cnriofity with a fight of the place: but I can o-ivcthce'no farther defeription of it, than that the ftreets arc narrow and dirty, and the inhabitants chiciiy thofc who gain a liveliliood by employment either at fea, or on the river.
Though we were got tlius far, yet our voyage had like to have been greatly retarded, on the following account. The articles of agreement being read to the people this evening, they rcfulcd to fign them without a greater advance of wages than is ufu -.lly given ; but tlds Captahi Portlock abfolutely refuf;d to comply with, and after reafonii^g with them fomc time, th.y chcarrully agreed to proceed on the voyage : thus, by the adilreis of Captain Portlock was this hiatus got over, which otherwife would have proved very difagreeable, and pollibly have loll us the feai"on.
On the 30th in the morning, the people of both fliips were paid what wages were due to them, tc^gethcr with a. month's advance, which they piefently laid out in purchaang necdfuies ot the llop-
AiicDft.
A V (J V A G I-
TO THE
,-S. boats tlut came along-iuic us, an.i who never f^ul to attend on ^^^^-- ^helb occailoni, v.cll knowing that a proper Culor can nc^cr go to ^~^ (ca with a Ihfe conlcicnco, whihl ho lias any money m Ins pocket The tide leivn^g about eleven o'clock, wc weighed anchor, and ftood tor the Downs. The water now began to have a greemih cad, and the llnp having a good deal of motion, I began to feel nndeif rather lick, but it prefently went off, and I never felt any thino- of it afterwards, which was rather extraordinary, as there v-e ttw frelli water failors who are not troubled wuh lea-hcknefs. The perlpeaive might now be fuid to have rather a nautical ap- pearance, as our diiVance from ihore was couliderable, though wc never lolt fight of land.
The day was agreeable and pleafaiU. and we came to anchor fibout eiglu o'clock in the evening (without any material occur- rence) near Margate, that place lo much frequented ni the leaioii by the wives and daughters of the better fort of London citizens, who rcfort here for the purpoll- .. drinking fea-water, waihms Rway the fmokc and dull of London, aping the manners of people in high life, pxdling to pieces the reputation of their neighbours, iind airefully concealing any Haws in their own. The wind being fair, we again weighed anchor early in the morning, and after a
\
ileafant day's fail/brought to a-breall of Deal lu the evening.
Tiie fituation of Deal is pleafant enough, and particularly con- venient for the contraband trade, which is carried on lure to a very great extent, on account of its vicinity to the Downs, and the llieita- it affords for homeward-bound lliips. Add to tiiis, the inhabitants are men of a molt cnterpn/Zmg and undaunted fpint, defpifmg all dangers, and will iVuk at nothing to accomplilh any thing they undertake. Indeed no man can be a eompleat fmuggler
'Aiihout thefc eharaderidics.
The
J
The
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
The wind being againil us, wc lay licrc all the ift of Septem- ber ; but in the moining of the 2d, a favourab;e breeze fpringnig up, wc weighed anchor, and made fail. The adjoining coaft fcems not to be hi a high Hate of cultivation ; yet at times it aitords very agreeable prolpects, particularly Dover, and its vicinity. I could not behold the Caftle without calbng to mind that cele- brated defcription of the profpect from it in our inmiortal Shake- fpcare's King Lear. The day being pretty cle?r, wc could planily fee the Coaft of France, and were in full view of Albion's chalky cliits, thofe objeds fo plcaling to a (ailor, after a long voyage, and which I ardently hope to have the lUtisfaaion of again beholding a few years hence. We had very little variety in our progrefs, till the 5th, v.'hcn a very heavy gale of wind fprung up, and our veflcl was tolled about at the mercy of the winds and waves. Every thing now was hurry and diforder ; and the creakhig of the lliip's timbers, the noife of the people on deck running backwards and forwards, and the howling of the winds amonglt tlie malls and yards added to the general contufion.
During this fccne, I kept below in tlic fteerage, in a fitu- ation; not very agreeable thou mayeft be lure : indeed hr.d I given way to the firlt impulfes of fear, I liiould have been more dead tlian a!ivc ; but I had recollection enough to reileci, that our Fiill and Second Mates were experienced foaiv.cn, and tl.at it wc were in any imminent danger, I ihould know it by tlieir countenances, which were the barometer by which I regidatcd my feelings ; and this prudent Hep a good deal lefFened my an\iety, for I learned from their difcourfe tliat tliey did not apprehend any great danger, except nom a ice Ihorc, a:ul we had day-light in our favour, aral at a confKka-aLle dillance horn laud. Towards the evcni'ig the liorm a'xited, which ealcd n7 npprehenhons, and I vci.tnred on deck ; but, good Cod! ho'v v. as
J a;iv.i.:ed
7
Sept -iiibtT.
s
VOYAGE TO T H E
„8;. I amazed to fee Ok fea rolllns lu billows mountains Wgh. and 'Z^ roaring in a moll tiemeiuious manner, rtery wave fufficient to fwallow up our litdc vclkl.
The next day the waters had recovered their ufual fcrenity and all Nature feenred to be r. .t were renovated. How orcrble is that finrile of the good old Patriareh, wherr defenbrng the hekle- uefs of his fon: "He (hall be (fays he) unftable as water. Thou wilt forgive me thcfe trifling digrellions , when they nfc to the end of mv pen, (if I nray be allowed the expieffion) 1 never check then, ; ' .ud thou, perhaps, wilt like them better than the moll lludicd paragraphs.
My letter fecms Iwelled to an unreafonablc Icngtli, therefore I fliall only obibrve at prefent, that we came to anchor at this place on the 8th in the afternoon, after a very agreeable days (ail. Thou mayeil eypea a further continuation the tiril opportunity.
™=^^'^" W. B.
? P 1 r H E .\ D , 7
9th September. J
L E T T E R IV
r-|-^IllS place is fituatcd betwixt rortfmouth and the Tile of A Wight, aivl is about ei-ht or ten miles over. It is only a
harbour for veliUs that drop in occalioiiaiiy, or fuch of his Ma- jelly's
B.
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
jeftv's fliips as are deftlned for immediate fervice. The place for vclllls that aic laid up. or repairing, being up a narrow creek, which divides Portfmouth from Gofport.
Septcmh.T.
One of the firft obicfls that prefcnted itfelf to my view, on our firll coming to and or, was the mails of the Royal Cieorge. which fiiip, thou mavcft remember, went to the bottom a few years ago. It is a melancholy refieaion, that near fifteen hundred poor louls fhould perilh in a moment, many of whom were of the firil tamihes. There are a number of line of battle ihips at anchor here, the fight of which is quite a novelty to me ; but that u hich renders the profpea from hence completely charming, is the beautiful land- scape which the Ille of Wight affords. Nothing in Nature can prefent a more dekaable appearance, than the enchanting veixlure of its fields and meadows. I can fay nothing of its mfulatecl appearance, but am told, that it is at leall equal to the coaft ; it fo, it muft be a moil defirable refidence for thofe who are fond o^ a ''ountry retirement.
Spithead is a moft excellent market for the farmer to difpofc of his various produce, the number of fliips conftanily lying here confuming more than they can poUibly furnifli them with, and for which they in general obtain good prices, (particularly ui time of war) though we laid in both live flock and other neccflaries for our mefs very reafonable, fuch as hogs, geefe, fowls, rabbits, ducks, and hams ; cheefe, butter, onions, potatoes, &c. &c.
Amon-lt the men of war at anchor here, is the Goliah, of 74 ^uns, Captain Sir Hyde Parker. Mr. Lauder, (our Surgeon) had b^en Surgeon's Mate on board her, and having a number ot ac- ciuaintance there, he very kindly invited me to go on board alon^
■* li WiU»
to
September.
A VOYAGE TO THE
^vkh him. Thou maycft be fare that I was greatly pleafed with h .^ opportumtv of gratilying my curiof.ty and -ad. y acccp^d invitation. We were on board feveral hours bu am too g^:: : no^ce in iea matters to give thee any toler^le c^npuc. of a man of war : indeed I had it not m my power, it I had ahtu y, t Te g an abfolute ftranger to every body, (the Doaor totally rJroilcd'bv h. old ihip-mates) 1 could not with propriety aik "; particular queftions. Thus far I can tell thee, that the decks nnd indeed every palBge and gangway, are kept as neat and e'n as a good country houiewife would her trenc^iers : they ^rTnot :2 fo many pLple on board as in time of ..r ut even then, I am told they are equally attentive in ixgard to clcai.- linefs. This, I beheve, was far from beu^s the cafe tormerl , till abfolute neceihty convinced them of its utility. In ablolut. governments one, perhaps, might fee inferior ranks of people kept fn due fubordination, though ai. 1< nglilhman can ill brook it, hberty and freedom being with him innate pmiaples ; but the Captain of a man of war is, I underlland, more ablolute than the moll acf™>tic monarch. Prudence may, fometimcs, make this exertion of power neceliliry, as a nuin of war, ('.ke a common fewer) is the receptacle for the moLl profligate and abandoned cf mankind. We dined on board, along with upwards of twenty ISiidlhipmen, Doctor's Mates, 6cc. and every thing was conducted with the utmolf regularity and decorum, accompanied with i politends which 1 was far from expeaing at iea, and which, I bdieve, is not always the cafe; harmony and decorum, nay, com- mon decency, being pretty often kicked out ot doors. In regard to Portfmouth I can fuy but little, being there only a few hours. I am told it is the bell fortified of any i>lace in the kingdom, and I ^m apt to believe it. Exclulive of the dock-yard, and other pub- 'ic wor^-s carried on here, the town is incoafulerablc, though it is
the
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICx\.
the lai-cft In this part of the country. In time of war. the people at hml and places of public reibrt, are particularly exorbitant in their charges, finding, I fappofe, that proverb verihed that <« Sailors -ct their money like horfes, and fpend it like afles. This, however, is not always the cafe, for I fupped and fpent a very con- vivlal evening with our Firft Mate, and a relation of Captain Dixon's at the Star and Garter, which is reckoned one of the dearell houfes, and we found every accommodation excellent, and their charges very moderate. Here are a number of Jews, who principally live in one ilreet, called Jews-ftreet. and a great many prolYitute's of the lowed clafs. who always have a plentiful harveft iu time of war, from the wages and prize-money of unwary failors.
Our bufinefs at this place (fuch as filling up our water, pro- curing fliip-s ftorcs, &c.) being compleated, we fliall fail trom lience'the firft fair wind ; but thou mayeft exped a continuation from Gucrnfey, at which place we Ihall touch. Adieu, thine, &c.
iz
1785.
Septciiibk:r»
\V. B.
Sr
ITHEAD, )
LETTER V.
^ CREEABLE to my promife, I now fit down to give thee A a continuation of our progrefs, though it blows fo very hard, and the Ihip has fo much motion, (notwithftaiu^mg our being at double anchor) that 1 fcarcely can write intelligibly. We
Ti
A V O Y ACE TO THE
left SpkbcaJon the i6th inft. at eight o'clock in the morning, and pallcc bv Sc. Helen's .t eleven •, but the uir.d provmg contrary, .nd thc\vcather wet and hazy, .e returned to M Helen s Road and <-anrc to anchor there in the cenn.g. At c.cn the next anorning v,c weighed, and made lail. Tbe w..her durn^ tus. .nd the two following davs, was moderate, and the wmds vanable. On board the King George were leveral ladies, who were gmng to Guernfey on a jaunt of pleafurc ; and a cutter, Irom Golport. belonging to our owners, accompanied us for the purpole of bring- ing them back. On the 19th, m the evening, we were at anchor ^vith what is called the kedge, (which is one of the Imall anchors) and the cvitter was moored to our rtern with a llout rope ; but though the weather was very mocleratc, the tide run lo ftrong. that ihc rope prefently broke, and the cutter ran adritt : the liuke of our anchor was likewife carried away ; this, however, was attended with no great inconveniency. Though I am io young a lailor, yet I had already been in fome danger, as thou maycll recol- lea when we had a heavy gale of wind olf lieachy ; and I was again deftined to be in a much worle iituation, from cpiitc a con- trary caufe, viz. a calm. This, to one like thee, will feem a paradox, as yo, p^opk ^d:o nc^cr Jaic Jlih i^ntcr muft needs thmk it the bell weather when the Iky is cleai , and the water Imooth. On the 20th, in the afternoon, we faw the Caikctts, which arc a heap of rocks, fo called by failors, on account, 1 fuppofe, of their like- nefs. Thefe rocks have been, perhaps, more fatal to mariners, than ever were the famed Scylla and Charibdis of the ancients. The tide drifted u. rigk.t upon them : we were quite becalmed, fo that our vcllel was unmanageable ; and at eight in the evening, they were witliin little more than a mile of us : we had foundings indeed in eighteen or twenty fathom water, but the bottom was nothing but Iharp rocks, '^o that had wx been reduced to the necef- . fity
was
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
llty of Icttinc; go our anchoi- there was fcarccly a poHibiUty of ^^ its cloin- us any fcrvicc ; but at nine o'clock the tide turned, and ^ all our rpprehenfions were (piickly over. This circumrtance will at once iltevv thee, that aihns, when near land, arc ott times more dangerous tlian violent gales of wind.
On the 2ift, about one o'clock, our owners brought us a pilot on board (the harbour of Guernley being right a-head of tis) to take us in ; and it was rather a laughable circumilance, that the man pretended he could not fpeak any Engliih, and we had nobody on board who underftood French; but we foon found Mcnficur knew fomething of Englifn, when he underftood, that .1 he was ignoi-ant of our language, we mull provide ourielves with another pilot.
We came to anchor in Guernfey Road about fix o'clock In tlic evening, the weather wet and hazy. Thou wilt expect me to fay fomething about this place, and I ihall give thee every information in my power Nsith the greateft pleafare, though my account will be much more circumfcribed than I could wlih ; notwithllandmg this thou maveft be allured, that for the Hike ot (welling my nar- rative, I never will forfake the regions of truth, or overleap the bounds of probability. On a rock entirely furroundcd by water, about three quarters of a mile from the town, ftands the Cartle, but its appearance has nothing of that Gothic call, which edihces of that kind oenerally have ; it is exceeding low, and I fancy very ancient, the greater part having been recently repaired, which makes it look like ■! piece of patch-work. It is defended by a number ot guns. and a -uard of foldiers , but what quantity of each I cannot in- form thee. It is liktwilb the prifon for all the illand, either in civil, or criminal cafes. The only thing to recommend the Road
where
13
,itcmber.
74
A
VOYAGE TO THE
lv..V,
vvl.ei- -.vr liv, ns a pU.cc for ll.ips to anclior in .s, its excellent Itr; i.?:.hc.- .llpca. t,. r.j,ation i. vc, b. ^,n,^^ ru,rh cxpolia to the winds •, but the n,h..b,tant. have »" "^'•»'=' ; c"ecui- to the town, fot.heit own velie. to Uty n,, we U^^cu.ed V-iinft any vu.lent wind or weather wlratloeveK Gue.nley
U ««! on' ..re fule of a pretty fteep hi.., with a ^^'^^^^^ rocky bottom : it confll.s of feveral ft.ee.s, wh.ch a>e ''^ ^. ™'-
ow arrd ineonvenient, brrt a.ways elean not only on aceou o thei; hard bottom, b.>t alfo their deelivrty , io that any dut or filth is always walhcd away by the lall Ihower of ram.
The Iroufes in =;eneral are built of a coarfe kind of free-ftonc, a:,a feldom appear eonrmodious. br,t never elegant : indeed con- venience alone Veems to have been principally attended to, even m the nrort modern ones. The iOand, 1 bcheve, is not very populous, and moft of the hd.abitants are brought up to a fea-tanng hte ; lb that the place, not affordlns every necellary of hte ni pK t), nrav, perhaps, be owing to proper want of cultivation, more uun its natural Hcri.ity. This ineonvenienee is litt e telt. as the (,.ue, - i-.y cruifers behrg always on the eoall of England, (whole fe.tde plains fo an>,>Iy reward the ea.eful farmer's toil) brmg back every thing they want at a cheap rate.
The merchants wlio refulo at Cuernrcy arc pretty numerous, and fome cf them coniulerable. In tune of war. they ht out a number of privateers, and, in ge.Krnl, are pretty luecelshil ; hut I am inclined to think, that a ioir of g,in prompts them to thelc undertaking's more than k)vc of their cour.try. In regard to then' trade it is chiefly of the contraband kind, and that on a very extcn- iiveplan, not being confined to their neighbours, the French alone, but cxtendms to Spain, i'ortugal, and the Stieight.. In then' rch-
^1011
i
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
't$
gion., (which is the Church of England) they are, I am told, very exaa, and pay a moft ftrict attention to the ohfervance of the Sab- bath : this thou wilt fay but ill agrees with their hving in con- fVant violation of laws both divine and human. I am rather of the fame opinion ; but I endeavour to reconcile thefe contradictions, by fuppofmg that the text of fcripture about " rendering unto Caifar, &c." is left out of their edition of the bible ; and that liberty, property, and /w excifi, is the fundamental axiom of their Magna Charta/ One benefit whicli they reap from their encoun- ters^vith the myrmidons from the Engliih cuftoms ib, that know- ing they are aRing contrary to law, their men become totally jal- lous to'the feelings of humanity, and being thus entirely cfivelled of the milk of human kindnefs, they fight like devils j and tins may, in a great meafure, account for the great fuccefs the Gucinfey privateers geneially meet with. Wines, brandy, &c. &c. are tlie principal commocUties they traffick in. Thefe articles, thou well knowclV, pay heavy duties in England, therefore are beft worth their attention. Till lately the article of tea was a kind of ftaple commodity here, but Mr, Pitt's late bill having fo greatly lowered the duties, it is no longer an object worth their attention. What few women I faw were very ordinary ; indeed it was no eafy mat- ter to tell what complexion hey were, of, fo liberally were they bedaubed with i)aint and powder. Their language feems to be a mixture of bad French, with a provincial dialeft, which renders it unintelligible jargon to every body but themfclves ; however, the greater part of the people in town fpeak pretty good Englilli. Our principal bufmels here was to take lome articles from the King (ieorge on board our veliel, and to lay in a iVock of liquor fortlie people during the voyage, both which are compleated, aiul we only wait fur a fair wind to wti^h anchor, and proceed on our
vovau'i.
Scptemner,
glOll
i6
A
VOVACE TO TIIR
TT .: -^- %o -I carrot help il2;Hng to thuik what a ciif- ,785. voya-e.-H.n,u--^- 1 • • • 1 ^ melancholy
r.n:.ca-,'Kr. ^^^^,,^ | ii.,,]! i,>on b'- fi-om-— l)Ut a tiuc. A
■^^ rcikclions, aiU whUit I cxilV, bchevc mc to be, 6cc. ^^^ _^^
L E T T E R VI.
^ T the conclufion of my laft I h.formcd thcc_, that wc only A w--tcd for a fah- wind to leave Guernlcy. which fortuna cly h.ppencd'the next dav, (viz, the 26th September) when we weighed ; !l\,adc tall. On the .7th. we faw feven illands, at about leven icagues dlllance. On the 28th, lalt proviiions --^Z^-^^"^^;; th^flnp's con^pany. I already forelee, that m tulhlhng thy !!; lA,f mcnliomns every occurrence, 1 ihall make n.y letters nothing but a dull repetition of tircfome and uninterefbng cncum- rtances Here methir.k. I fee thee make a full ifcp and wnh a fniile, mutter to thvfelf. " What the devil does the fellow mean ? He lurely has not Uk vanity to think that the bell ot Insletters are anv thing elfe than a heap of dull, tedious ftutt r Well, it this is' thy opinion, I moft cordially agree w,lh thee : however were my'abilities greater, it would be out c,f my power to ayoul tautology at all times. On tlie 3 :rh, grog was lervcd out, which nvide all' hands look brilk and chcarful : thou art not to nnagmc tint I include our mefs in this r.bfcrvution, as we had a plcnt.lu Hock of our own, independent of the (hip's allowance. We had a i^ron- tiale of wind lincc our leaving (iucink'y : this I was ^ '^ iamihar
1 dlf-
clioly
/c only .matdy
It icvcii i out to ng thy ,' letters c ileum -
with a
mean ? s letters Well, if lowever, U) avoid t, whicli
iniatrinc nlcmiiul
\Vc hail is I was
familial
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
f.„,iliar to. Before I mention a circumftance that happened on c Vw the 2d of Oaober, I muft infovm tltec that we Iceep the *S, V a decent and o.detly n^nner : all hands appeann;, a t e S,«aator fays of country villages on the fame occafion ■^thtteir cleaned looks and bell cloaths. clearn,g away the ru(t of tlte week," and employ themfelves in reading good books, no duty being carried on that can be avoided.
On the 2d, about noon, one of the people faw fome.hing at a ,im:,ce, floating on the w-r , this immed,a.ely exerted eve, one's curiofitv, and we willied to have a nearer v,e v of it, but ha inriittle or no wind, tire .hip would not obey the hehn : we "red to hoift out our boat, but the tackles or that purpole we not at hand. In this dilemma, feveral of the people w.lhed To iump over-board, in order to fee what had io cMrff.ge.i our an nZ, and to iave it if worth the trouble At hril Capta.n Drxon objeaed to this, for fear of (Irarks, or other acc.dnts ; b t te was no alternative, as the expeded prue drifted from u. ev'ry moment -. fo givmg leave, two of the people were m the fea In n" ment. nd found it to be a large calk, en.uely covered :it X^l of Ihell-Hlh. called barnacles. They preiently broug , it alo.n: l.de, and we hoirted it on board. There is no doubt but 1 K t n m the water a long time, as the Hlh were wuh di.heulty fold off. having nearly eat holes through the calk : on exam.- ^Z, T, .roved "o be a hoglhead of claret. Tins nughtjull y kon d an ac<p,lf,.ion, yet i, rs a melancholy re lecUon to Ink .h.« n. veilel Lrdd part wnh ,1 but in the greatell exigency, and d'lat ue only prolited by the dUlrels ot others.
■nil the 1 ;.h, no.lnng particular occurred ; (v.'. I'.a.l fecn fl.range (hips at two ur three dillerent times, but not tie.u cn.ug.i .o U l-
'7
A VOYAGE TO THE
ccrn v.hat count i-y they were from) but early In ilic morning wc iiiw the Tiland of Porto Santo, at about iix leagues clilhmce ; (thou art to unJerlland, that a league at fea is three miles) and Madeira Ibmething nearer : the day being very {mc and clear, we kept ftanding along the ihorc, within a mile of the land. This illand, fofanums in die conmierciaK or I might rather fay, voluptuous world, for its wine, appears mountainous, but not difagreeably fo, as the land Hopes down by gentle declivities to the water's edge. Tb.e numerous vineyards teem with ripe clui\ers of the juicy grape, which feem to invite the preflure of the careful vintner : theie are e\ er and anon interfered by various plantations of other kinds, together with convents, atid other public edifices, dedicated to reli- gious fcclufion, which appear to be very numerous here, and put me in mind of Foote's Mother Cole, when Ihe complains of the cruel villains " immuilng for life fuch fweet young things, Stc." Funchall, the capital of the illand, appears very full of places dedicated to public worlhlj) ; and the Itreets feem regular. With this thou mull be contented, for I have no other opportunity ol" feeing it than through a perfpective glafs, at three miles diltance.
When I firrt: began to write, I was not certain whether fortune would favour mc with an opportunity of fending it from Madeira, Init o:i our conimg a-breail of this bay, we found here two of his Majelh's ihips, bound for England ; ami we are now laying to, whiUl the packets are getting ready.
If I recolleJl right, wlien I firfl- gave thee an account of our veflels, and t,iL.r deltination, I did not mention what number of hands v.e had on h<nuA. In our ihip wc are thiiiy-two in all, in.-iudlng Ca,-t,i,n D.xon. On board the King (ieoige, they are nearly (if not quite) double that iiuiuher ; but fome uf them arc
mere
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
^9
ig we (thou \(lcira
kept llaiul, luous )ly fo,
edge. Ti-apc, .'ic are kinds, 0 rcli- d put of the , 8cc." pkiccs
With \ity of ance.
mere children, and belong to people of confequcnce, who, intend- ing them for tlie fea, I fuppofc, tliought they could r.ot do bcitcr than embrace this opportunity of initiating them ear!y in their proixillion ; to do which more compleatly, Ca])tain Portlock Ikis on board a youth from the Mathematical School in Chrift's Hofpital to inltruft them in the theoretical, whilil he teaches them the prac- tical part of navigation.
Amongft the " changes and chances of this mortal life," behold thy friend, doomed to fpend fome years of his, if Providence allows him to exift, entirely fecluded from the bufy world. To the her- mit, this might perhaps be a defirable event : I cannot fay that is by any means the cafe with me. Thou mayeft, indeed, {iiy, that I am not entirely diverted of the comforts of fociety ; — true— but thou art to underftand, that I have very little converfation with any except my mefs-mates j and as failors generally introduce Jalt-\^atcr fubjedlis, and thofe handled fo as to fhew they have excluded logic from their fludies, my entertainment cannot be great.
1785-
(Jctobtr.
brtune
adeira,
of his
ing to,
of our iber of in all, lev are icin are mere
I frequently walk the deck for four hours, without fpeaking as many words : at thefe times my thoughts are employed on a variety of fubjeds, and I propofe committing them to pa])cr, both for my amufement, and to have the j^leafure of thy remarks, which I beg thee always freely to make. Our Captain's letters are ready,
and the boat is waiting. — Adieu. Believe me thine,
W. B.
1' u N < H A 1. L- 13 A Y, { Madc'na) 14th Octobq^.
}. E T T E R
J'
A
VOYAGE TO T H E
C)aobcr.
LETTER VII.
T F inv Ihin- cm exceed the pleafure I have -.n writing to thee, lit \h '"i haveiuft expencnced, vi.. the fctting my icet o. itin f -n a By this thou wilt conclude I 1-ave been on Iho c, con fcnuently expea a defcrip.ion of t!,is Wand. As good a r' a?; ciS is a 'thy ietvice .'but let me .efuntc tny nauat.ve where 1 laft left thee.
After fending our letters on board his Majefty's (l.ip we left Funchall-Bay, md rteered for thrs place, with moderate breezes.
and fine weather.
On the .6th we faw Falma and Ferro. (two of the Canary 1,1° Is bearing South by Eatl at about twelve leagues d.llance. p! thou wilt finile at my n.entiouing the ...,»,.- J^
n„J but give me leave to tell ihec, that .t ,s ,nethod,cal and fl/arVliket this, 1 hope, will not only fecure me from thy aut- m.ulver.,ons, but nieiit thy approbation.
on, he ■9.h, we were in a. degrees N"'''^:'""'''^;;""; ''« weather Icing t.re.ty clear, ,t w .s very hot ar,d lu,„ y. C)u, d eks wlllllv.,, iTul, arri the carpenters we,e very bu.Uy cntplojec. ,n
caulkii'g.
,:,,.|y in ,h. nu„uing of the a+th, we f.w &..■ W U>mavil>:,
liltilMCC.
Ir 1 milMkc iv. ts^i^ »s tue iM.ukI which
-It k^Ul ICiL^.C. cUltilMCC. 11 1 uu...-^ .....
t.:e ren.,v..ea Colu.ubu. hr.t .aw, w ncu h- >..rku m <p,..t 0, a ,• ,.
I
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
•7 L
u'orU. At ten o'clock the Ide of Mayo bore N. N. E. four leagues, ^:^^^ and St. Jago, (our intruded porty at eight leagues diflance.
Thy knowledge in geography will inform thee, that thcfc are part of the G//v ck Verde Hlands, and are iubjeft to the Portugueze. At noon we came to anchor in Port Piaya Bay, St. Jago, m eight fatliom water. The extremes of the land which forms the Bay, bore from Eaft by South, to South- Weft. The Caftle and Fort, North- Weil by Weft, diftance. from ihore near two miles.
The IHand St. Jago is fituated in near 14 degrees 54 minutes North latitude, and 23 degrees 29 minutes Wefl longitude : I cannot fpeak with any degree of certainty in regard to its extent, but 1 think its utmoil circumference cannot be one hundred miles.
It is natural to fuppofe, from its fituation, that the climate is very hot, and this is greatly increafed by Ealicrly winds, which are generally prevalent here j thefe conliautly blowing from the fandy delarts of Africa, greatly add to the natural heat of the cu- mate.
Our bufmcfs at this place wa^ to water our vclTcls, procure frelh provifions, and whatever neceiraries the i.lacc allordcd, that could by any means conduce to our prefcnt or futuic accommo- d-tion ; in order to <lo which, our Captains took ihe lirll oppor- tunity of going on ihore to fuid out the bell and caucil method of facilitating their purpofe.
The Commander of the Fort treated them at firft in rather a hau-Ii.y manner, Init on having a trifling prcf.nt made him, he ir.cvv civii, and ^ave them leave to water the Ihips -, this, it ke.us,
1785- Oa^bcr.
A VOYAGE TO THE
bc\n^ all that Is in his power, all other ncccirarics being furnin.ul by -rPortusvicze merchant, who reiides within a quarter of a mile
trom the beach.
Fvery thing for our difpatching bufmefs being fettled I had the
■plea u of ,oing on H^ore with our Captains. An old Negro (a
tt of the liLd) received us on the beach •. he could peak a
•ittle broken Englifh, and on underftanding our bufmefs, went along
vith us to the merchant's houfe, and proved very ferviceable for
none of us knew a word of Portugueze, and he could fpcak no
Engliih, fo that the old man ferved as an interpreter.
We were received with great civility and politenefs, and treated
■with fome excellent Madeira, Capilaire, oranges, &:c. We paid a
.uinea for each veffel, as a kind of port charge, and entered their
names in a book kept for that purpofe, together with their dcfti-
nation, and from whence they came.
Captain Portlock agreed xvith this gentleman for fome beef, and a few other neceflaries ; but our interpreter iniormed us. that the country people would furnilh us with many tlungs we wanted, on cheaper terms than this gentleman.
On going to Prava we found a kind of market hcl<l there, a number of people being aflemblcd from various parts of the llland, with dirtercnt articles to fell, lucli as hogs, ihcep, goats, fowls, turkies. ixc. to-ether with oranges, lemons, limes, cocoa-nuts, bananas, a few pine-applcs, and fmall quantities )f clayed iugar, which they make up in parcels like our balkcts of lidt. The fruit •of CN erv kind was tine, and peculiarly acceptable to us, not only V becaulc
J
I mile
id the ;;ro (a j)eak. a along lie, for ak no
treated
paid a
;d their
r dcfti-
;ef, and that the Ued, on
there, a c llland, , fowls, oa-nuts, .xl iugar, rhc fruit not only bccaul'c
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 23!
bccaufo they ferved in a moft agreeable manner to quench third:, ^7^^^^ but Ukcwife as they arc excellent anti-fcorbutics.
Of their live Hock, the hogs ar.d turkles arc by far the bcH j riieir goats and fhecp being very thin and Ipare, and their buUoclis (for fo it feems they call them) not fo large as an Engliih year-old caifj yet fo poor are the people, that none of them could furniHi us with any InrJ] the merchant, it feems, beisig the only perfon here able to carry on that traffic. We found old cloaths and toys in greater eftimation than caih amongft thcfe people, efpecially in exchange for their lefs valuable articles, fuch as goats, fowls, fruit, &c. This was a lucky circumftance for us, as Engliih coin is not current here ; however, it was neceilary to have fome cafli, which we got by applying to the merchant, who exchanged our gumeas for Spanilh dollars, giving us four dollars, equal here to five ihd- lings each, for a guinea ; fo that the courfe of exchange here is nearly fifteen per cent, againft us. The beft way for any Captam who piopofes to touch at this place for a fupply of provihons, &cc, would be, to bring a few articles of hard-ware, fuch as knives, buckles, razors, &c. &c. thefe would fetch a good proht. and fur- nilh him with whatever calh he might want.
I have not time to add more at prefent, but will fmifli my ac- count of this place in my next. Thine, 6cc.
W. B.
PoRT-l'RA-kA, (St. ya£3,))
20th (Jclober. !•
LETTER
SiTH,
«78v
A VOYAOE ^'O THE
L r. T T K R V^^^-
'ill'
*j
^ , N C E the cl,tc of mv l.ft f.vcrul mipsl.avc arrived hcc. vl.. O tiuxc lliil IVom Loiulon. a»d an Amer.can bng.
The A,ncnca,w bofinefs, it leems, ^vas to pick up horfes or
. J' t.le he couUl lay hands on ; but none beu.g here, he weighed
,;r te I in/a few hou., The London vei.els are em-
o ed n the Sont1,ern whale filhe.y . one of them ,u(l come o nbelonss to a Mr. Montgomen-, in Prefcott-ftreet, Goodm n.- r id' : the brig I have heard nothing about, an ^^^^ ,0 Hamet, Efq; (now Sir Bcr.jamm Hamet.) Mtc. called
he Ilantet, after her owner, and comn:anded hy a Cap.am Clarke, ;1 is a giod Irearty kind of ntan. and fo obhgn.g a. to take the •charge of our letters.
I ntall now procce.l to finilh what further account I am able to .ive thee of this place. The Fort and Cartle {or rather the palf^ l,lace. which f.rve as an apology for them) are htuated on an em,- Kuce, near f.alf a n.ile from the water h.le, and commanded by a t-ltdn with a detachment of f ,ldi.:rs, fuiiicient, .m do,d>t, to keep the liland in proper fuliugation, but iurely unable to repel any fo rc-i 211 armament.
Imn.edianh behind tbi. fortrefs, on a Mrge plain, ftands the Town of I'ra^a, conf,mng of a;.t.t i:f,v or fiv.v huts, dar.dmg at , ,„od diltan, e iron, each clr, r. :„.! torn, a lare. .p.adrangle, „Lae the m,u-ke. r. held ; n.ar ti-.e e.nl-r .. a p,!e ol Ib.nes
\\ 1 1 It. It
re, VIZ,
•fcs, or veighcd are em- \ come idmans- icr (bip, Is called I Clarke, take the
ti able to lie paltiy I an rmi- iled by a t, to keep repel any
lands the aiding at ladraiiglc, of Ituncs,
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
which fcrve as a crofs. Thefe huts (for I can call them no better) are built with iVones, without any cement, and are perhaps as poorly conftrucled, as the moft miferable out-houfe belonging to an Englifti farmer. They confift only of a ground-floor, which is generally divided into two, or at moft three rooms.
Beds are a luxury not known in general here, the people lleep- ing on mats ; indeed I faw one at the merchant's before-mentioned, but icarccly a menial fervant in England would fleep in it.
The natives are blacks, and generally fervants to the Portugueze, many of whom refide here. They profefs the Roman Catiioiic relieion, of which they feem very tenacious. One day when I was at Praya, the people were going to public worlhip, and, impelled by curiofity, I was polling to the chapel, in order to fee their ■method of faying mafs ; but the Commander of the Fort hap- pening' to fee me, fent one of his foldiers to order me back. The Portugueze behave kindly to ftrangers, but, perhaps, this may proceed from interefted motives, as we went to their houfes to purchafe fruit, ficc. A good woman at one of the houfes made me a meis of boiled Indian wheat, mixed up with goat's milk, and iweetened with fugar, much like a good Englifli houfewife's firmity : this Ihe prefTcd me to partake of with fo much good-nature, that I could not refufe eating, and found it a very agreeable mdb. It might be imagined from the warmth of the climate, that the fe- males are naturally amorous ; yet both the natives and Portugueze conftantly refilled every felicitation of that kind from our gentle- men, though they enforced their rhetoric with very tempting prc- feuts : whether thefe conflant denials proceeded from a real love of challity, I Ihall leave thee to determine.
25
1785.
Oftober.
n
I judge
a6
Oaober.
A V O Y A G E T O T H E
I iuda;e the foil to be much the fame with that of tropical idands in genenil ; inc^eed 'vcie it capable of improvement equal to that of England, the people are too lazy to cultivate it. I have before mentioned the principal articles this place produces. Thefe in general require little or no labour, except the cuhivationof Indian wheat, and the manufaduring the fmall quantity of fugar-cane which the illand afforc'? : from tins they make a kind of fpirit, which Is liere called rum, but by failn's aqua dcnte. This they make into punch, and render it palatable by infufmg plenty of lemon, or lime-juice, and fugar.
This ifland abounds with goats, and their milk feems to be a confiderable jvirt of the people's fulfenance ; for I oblervcd in all the huts I went into, bowls filled with it, and generally a number of chcefes. I am the more apt to believe tdiis, as I could fee no preparations for cooking victuals in any of the houfes, not even fo much as a tire, though 1 vifitcd many of them at difterent times of the day.
The heat of the climate requiies but little cloathing, and in this refpcct fuits the purfes of the inhabitants ; for the few cloaths thcv have (the foldiers excepted) feem to be purchafcd at lecond- hau'd, from (hips that touch here for refrelhmcnt. I ought not to include the women, however, {the Jh ir Jr. x I had like to have laid) in this lemark : ihey vvearaloolc wrapper, of cotton manufacture, the produce of the ifland, generally ilriped with blue, after various patrerr.s, as their fancy fuggcfts ; this wr;-,pper, with a f.ght petti- coat, and a ca]i, chietiy conltitute the women's drefs. iJy way of ornament, tl.eir cars and neck are decorated \\iih beads, or lome toy tf tiitli.ig value, aivJ from the neck acrofsis generally lui[.-er.d- ctl. The i'uiLuguezelouk the picture of ill-health j their coun- tenances
■-.#
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
tcnances are wan, meagre, and fallow : whether orno this is pecu- liar to the people of that nation, or occafioncd by the climaLc, I cannot fay : the natives, however, in general arc healthy looking people. Their government I can fay nothing about, but I fliould fuppofe it in fome meafure fimilar to that of Portugal.
So much for St. Jago. Our time will not permit us to flay- longer than is neceflary to complete our water, and let the people have a little recreation on fliorc, which is very necelTary for the preici vation of their health : moft of this being already done, I expea every minute to hear " All hands up anchor a-hoy" vocife- rated by the Boatfwnin, with all the noify bawl that a good pair of lun:-s ean aiiord •, fo that I Ihall finiai with the words of Hamlet's father " Far vvel!— remember me ! Thine ever,
' VV. B.
27
17R;.
October.
28tl
St. Jaco, 7 :\ Ociubcr. 3
LETTER IX.
I HAVE before obferved, that I corrcfpond with thee as much for my own am ^^ement as thy information— I beg pardon j— I ipeant to fay the £ uihcation of thy curioiity : io that thou art not to wonder at feeir ^ n.y letters frequently dated at fea , tor, in committing our daily occurrences to paper, I am totally govcnml hy oood weather and opportunity. Indeed I know tlicc to oc 10 ready to make evciy kind allowance, that mis preamble was K.ai-cely ■^ nccellary,
1785
Nov
Iv.r.
A V O Y A G E T O T H E '
necefiary ; I fluiU therefore relume my narrative vviihout further ceremony.
Havin<^ comploatcd every objea we had in view at St. Jago and a ^^r^c bLzei.r.ngingup, we weighed anchor at ten o code in ,hc morning of the 39th Oaober, atter takmg leave, w.h le hearty cheers, of ou. ,ood friend Captan. Clarke whom eft anchm-. W^e alio kit the ihip belongmg to Mr. Montgomiy ,iul,r^ in the bay. The live flock we brought trom the lile oi Wi^ht being nearly expended, we had purchafed leveral goats, tur- kie^, and iheep here, in order to make our voyage more comfort- able', and to preferve us from the fcurvy.
I have aheady mentioned the great heat of the weather at St. Jago, and endeavoured, in fume meafure, to account tor it Thoa maveft eafdy imagine, that the nearer we approached the Lqui- j^oaial Line, the weather grew more intenfely hot-, and this is rreatly increafed by calms, which are very fre<,ucnt in latitudes near the Line, whilll a frclh breeze always renders the licat more tolerable.
On the ^,d November, being in eiglit degrees North latitude, and the weather moft intenfely hot, our people were bufily em- ployed in fcrubbing and cleaning iKtween decks, and every part ot Ihe veOel, with cai'e, and afterwards waHied it well with vinegar. This method was always ufed bv the late Captain Cooke, m his Ion- vovages, and he ever found it attended with the happictt tffeas, 'in regard to the piefervation of health. Such kind and humane attentions to the health of people under tlie care ot any Commander, mull certainly place his charaaer, as a man and a
C/jriJluini
rthcr
), and clock three left at jmcry lile of
5, tUl-
nfort-
at St. Thou
this is titiulcs t more
Ltitude, ily cm- part of 'iiieirar. , in his uippictl ml and of any n and a hrijliiin.
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 2f
Chrijlian, high in the eilimatioii of every perfon of 1-eeling and ^r^^^^^ huiiiauny. "
Indeed I cannot help conf^derir.g this attention as a duty abfo- lutely incumbent on him ; ^or, if :he mafter of a family ou fliore conllders it his duty to take care of his fervants durmg ficknefs, when they have it in theh- power to procure reUef by vanous other methods, how much m.re doec it behove the Captain of a lh,p to beftow every attention in his power on his fervants welfare r In tlie midO of the wide ocean, to whom can they feek toriuccour . They have no kind friend, no tender parent to apply to <or p:!'- ? No iienerous Public, whofc chanty they might implore, and who rai-ely fail to alTift the helplcfs in their cidhcis ! Yet notuuh- Ilanding thefe powerful motives, the.e are, I an) afraid, too ma.y Captams who do not trouble tnemfelves about luch . to cnem , tri- vial matters, but truft to chance for the health or iicknels ot theu people.
From the 4th to the 12th of November, the weather was very
variable-, fometimes it was clear, and nearly c^lm, and preient y
it would change to ttrong fquJls and heavy rain, attended with
confta.;t thunder and lightning. I had onutted to mention, that
on the 9th the ihip's company were ferved with peas, at an allow-
ance of half a pint per man, for three days in the week j this
addition to our fait pork, made a very comfortable mefs. Ly he
,,th we were in the latitude of 2 degrees North, and the weather
.Jew more fettled and favourable : we had a frelb Eaftu ly breeze,
v-ith a clear Iky, unattended with any fudden Iqualls, or thunder
and lightnnig. On the i Cth ^^x crolled the Line, our latitude beuii;
22 mikij Louth.
1^
Novcml'u.
A V 0 Y A G E T O T H E
It pcrluips mA\ he neccnary to inform thcc, that the method of finding what latiiudc the iliip is in is, to take an altitude of the Sun when he is in the meridian, (which is always twelve o'clock at noor.) and th.is :atitudc, after being wrought by an eafy procefs, gives the huilude.
Sailors on croHlnf; the Line, have a cuRom of plungmg every perfon (ni board, who have never been to the 5^outl\ward of it, over head and ears in a tub of water. This ceremony being but ill reliil\cd by iome of our peoph;. Captain Dixon piomifed all hands a double allowance of grog if they would defill : this was very willingly accepted, and harmony was foon reflored : but alas ! groc; and good humour foon were at variance, and fome of the people grew fo ciuairelfomc and turbulent, that they were put in irons : iliis brought them to reafon in a Ihort time, and they were .-•I't at liberty on promife of better behaviour.
I was exprcfling my fui'prize and foi'i-ow to \v\ mefs-matcs, that fodilhnbingacircumdance ihould happen, but t!\cy laughed, and faid, that thing;, of vhis fort were fo connnon at fca, that they were not worth takirg the leaft notice of. On this I coidd not help jwEediiig with Solomon, that " there is nothing new imder the
At two o'clock in the afternoon of the 2\(\, wc faw a fail to the ^aftiA^rd, hut at too great a dillancc to difcern what count ly i1 c 'belonged to. < >\\ the 24th, vinegar v.as lervcd out to the (hip's eomj-any, whith made our lalt piovifions muic wholelbme and agreeable ; *? likewiie pioved a very good ingredient to eat v. itii fiih, which we frecpiently caught, luch as bonettas, alhacoiirs, <le>lphiji'->. ike. On the i'.nh, tli'>; peojde were feived with what a ilojij
thod of of the o'clock
procels,
ig every it, ovci" but ill 11 bands vas very at alas ! ic ot the c put in hey were
lies, that lied, and hey were not help nder the
"ail to the antiy He the (hip's :)ine and ' eat V. ith Ihaeoius, ith what
lloj'J
NORTH-WEST COAST OF A M E !U C A.
flops thev wanted, and fo were rid of the fears they entertained at our hv{\ lailing, viz. that they fliould not be able to procure a fup- ^ ply of cloaths when their flock was worn out. On the 26tn, tea andfugar were fervcdto the fliips company, at an allowance (uth- cient for breakfaft every morning. This made a very comf^^rtable addition to our via-als, and was a very agreeable change : add to this, they are excellent anti-fcorbutics, and as fuch, peculiarly defn-able in long voyages. Indeed we had a plcr.tiful ffock both of tea, cotfcc. and lugar for our own mefs, of a fupcrior quality to what we had ierved out ; but it was a moft denrai)le acquifition to the people, as I believe it is never ferved out, e.ther in the Kmg's fliips, or merchants I'ervice. On the soth, we had a fpare main- fail fitted over the quarter-deck, as a temporary awning. This not only rendered the heat of the weather more tolerable on deck, but was of great ufe in preferving it from the fun.
By the 6th of December we were well out of tlie Tropics, being in "6 deg. i6 min. South latitude. The weather now began to be agreeable :m.\ pleafant, with fielh Ready Ealkrly breezes. At nine in the morning of the 7th, the King George made a fignal for • feeing a fail to the South-WdT: j but (he did not come near enough for us to difcein what country Ihe belonged to,
1 believe Captain Portlock propofes touching at Falkland^ liVuuls ; if i'o, thou mayell depend on a further continuation fioni that t-iace. Thuu; ever.
\i
Dcccail'cv-
\\ . B,.
At "i a, ?
L E T T E R
A \OVAGE TO THE
LETT E R X.
rf^ HOUGH a Tea life i:; in fomc degree become familiar to 1 mc, yet the Tight of land fills me with a temporary pleafure ; I lav temporary, becaufe it b i'oon flopped by refieaing. that feme vcars mull claple before I lliall have the heart-felt fatisfaaion of beholding my native country.
I am albamed to trouble thee with Aich trifling digrefTions ; '[rat in future I will endeavour entirely to fuppreis them, and write nothing that concerns the pall, or futurr, but coniine myfelf to the prelent time.
On the I ith of December, being in 33 ^eg. 1^ min. North lati- •cudc, we had a heavy gale of wind, which obliged us to clofe-reef our top-fails and niain-fail : however, in a few hours the weather o rcw nuxlerate. Wc have found the variation of the compafs to be M dcg. 16 min. Eallerly. The 16th, being moderate and fine, wc had a ^rCvit (juantity of fpermaceti whales about the fhip, latitude 41 deg. South.' On the 2 ill, we had a very heavy gale of wind, which obliged us to hand our top-fails, and reef our cuurfts : wc alio reeved preventer braces f -r the top fail yards, and jireventer lulhings to fecure our boat : the main ".dfore hatches were bat- tneddown, and every ])recaution taken to keep the velfel fiuig and dry. This in all parts to the Southward of tlu [ Jne, is the longeft day : it would have been a matter of furpri/e fo)- th.ee to have feen the Sua before four o'clock m the morning > and I dare fay tliat
there
.miliar to pleafurc ; that fome fai^lion of
irrefTions ; and write Iclf to the
vforth lati- > clofe-rcef le wcatlicr npafs to be ul fine, vvc p, latitude le of wind, jurils : wc .1 preventer s were bat" 11 fnug and the longcrt o have kxa ire lav tliat there
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AiMERICA.
there arc numbers in London who will never beperfuaded that the ^^^^7^5.^ Sun rifes before four o'clock in Dcc.embt.r. ^--s—
On the 23d, beino- in 46 deg. South latitude, the fca had a very muddy, dirty aj^pcarancc, we law a leal, and a great quantity oi various kinds of liih playing about the Ihip.
Early in the morning of the 24th, we had a heavy ftorm of fno^^- and fleet : indeed lince the 2 ill we had very little intermilhon from heavy eales of wind and fqually weather. This forenoon our laft goat^died, being literally ftarved to death with cold, though we had taken every precaution in our power to keep her alive. Wc R'lt her lofs very lenlibly for fome time, as Ihe had given milk twice a day, which made our tea drink very agreeably. Latitude at noon 47 deg. 2 min.
On the former part of the 25th we had fredi breezes, and pretty clear weather , but at fou r in the afternoon a heavy gale of wind obliged us to hand .ur top-fails and reef the courfes. This being Chnll- mas Dav, ^^■e celebrated it as well as our fituation coukI afford, and moi'e particularly as it is accounted by failors a greater felhval than even the Sabbath-Day, though their oblcrvancc of it is iior conf.acnt with this opinion, as they generally Ipcnd it ni no.ly mirth, and tumultuous jollity, occalion.ed by drinkmg repeated bumpers of grog to tlie health of their abfent friends and fweet- hearts. Latitude 4S deg. 14 mm. South.
From the 26th to the ; ^ 1>, the weatlier was variable : fomctimc:^^ we had uKKleratc breezes, and cloudy ; and again, heavy gales of wind with rain. This is the Sunu.ier feaibn ni this part of the v'orld, the latitude we were in ( viz. s- .Kg. 30 mm. South) being
E nearly
0 >
Jniiunry, v.— - V ' —
A V O 1' A G E T O T II E
,iea,-ly the Aimc climate as part of England -, yet the weather her^ is more like March than MuUummer.
On the 111 Janiiaiv, 1786, we had great numbers of feals and penguins about us, and a great variety of birds, which plainly indicated that we were not far from land.
At three o'clock in the morning of the 2d, we faw land, the extremes of which bore from South-Eaft by South to South by Well, at about nine leagues dillance. At ten o'clock we fountled in feventy-eight fathom water, over a fine fandy bottom, inter- mixed with black fpecks : the extremes of the land at noon bore from South-Eaft to South-Well; the weather thick and hazy with rain. During the afternoon, we liad light winds, inclining to calm. In the evening we founded, and had agahi feventy-eight fathom water, with much the lame bottom as before.
At eight in the morning of the 3d, we faw the land bearing Ead: by Nortli ; and at ten, the extremes of the land in light bore from South-Eaft to South-Weft by South, diftant from Ihore nine or ten leagues : the water apjieared very black ami nuuldy. At eleven o'clock we faw a rock, bearmg South-Eaft, at about (even leagues diftance, which had very much the appearance of a Ihip under iail, and indeed we at firft took it for a veliel. We have lince learnt, that this rock is called the Eddyftone. Our latitude at noon waa 51 deg. z min. South, and the longitude 58 deg. 48 min. Wd\.
I mention the latitude more frcq\iently, that thou mayeft form an idea of oiu' progrefs i and alfo, by tliat :\ud the longitude, (which 1 \Nill mention in futuie at every opportunity) thou mayel^ find with caL- tiie veiy fpol of the globe that we are upon.
During
er here
:als and plainly
nd, the juth by fountled , inter- na bore izy with to calm, fatliom
ing Eaft jie from nine or Vt eleven I leagues nder ihil, c learnt, loon was Well.
reft: foini jngitiule, III niayel^:
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Diirinc; tbe afternoon we bad frefh breezes and cloudy weather at.d, not wiibng to lofe f.ght of the land, we ftood in Aiore and tacked occaiionallv. At eight o'clock in the evening, the Werter- moft bnd bore Weft South-Weft, and the Eddyftone North-Eal . We had frelh breezes, with thick hazy weather •, at tnnes a thick fog.
In tbe forenoon of the 4th wc faw two f.nall illand., bearing South by Eaft and South by Weft, with high land behind them. At noon the Weftermoft land in fight was about tour leagues, and the Eaftermoft near eight leagues diftance, latitude 51 deg. 10 mui South. During the afternoon we ftood along ihore, as we iudged Port Egmont (the harbour we hitended to anchor m) not to be far off. About midnight, being within three mi es o the Weftermoft land. Captain Portlock made fignal to ftand off Ihore. I have befoi-e obferved, that we had very long days -, m ta^, we had no night, and the weather bemg moderate, might juftly war- rant our ftanding near the land duiing the mght time.
At two o'clock in the morning of the 5th, we wore ami made fail At three Captain Portlock fent his whale-boat with Mr. Macleod, his Firft Mate, to found a-head, and look out for a har- bour. Mr. Macleod left a copy of the various fignals he was to make on board the Queen, as a guide for us, our veliel being a-head of the King George.
At half part feven Mr. Macleod fircd a mufquet, as a fignal foi ckngcr, which occalioncd us to Itand off the land, and Lack occa- fiomillv, the better to obfervc the motions of the boat. Towards nine o'clock, being pretty neai" the place where Mr. Macleod m.de
Durhic;
6 A VO Y AG E TO Till'
1736. the ilgnal for danger, our \vh:ilc-boat was hoillcd out, and fent J-'""''>'' a-hcad to found.
About half pall uuk Mr. Macleod hoillc'l a flag at the top of the high land, which was a fignal for a harbour : on this, both veifels llood in for the ibuud, and Captain Portland fired a gun as a fiiinal for his boat to return..
.\rr. Macleod informed us, that he liad fecn a fmall reef of rocks which occahoned him to fire the mufquet ; and that the harbour aftbrded an excellent place for watering. At eleven o'clock both fliips came to anchor in Port Egmont, in feventeen fathom water over a fandy bottom.
I have endeavoured to mention every circumftancc, however trivial ; and I hope (o ifrict an attention to minutiic will nut only pleafe thee, but in ibmc mealure atone for the defers that conti- nually occur in the courfe of my narration. Thou mayeft: expccl: fome account of this place, (S:c. in my next. Thine, Sec.
\v. n.
rALKi..\ND's Islands, ) 7tli January. )
LET T K R Xr.
H.WING handed the fiiils, and put every thing to rights, we moored with the ifream-anchor and tow-line -, but the next clay, (the 6th) finding the wind blow frelh, and a heavy fvvell vvc
took
nd font
e top of is, both I gun us
of rocks harbour Dck both n water
however not only at conti- i\ expect
V. H>
ights, we
the next
Ivvell. wc
took
KORTII-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 37
took the ftrcam-anchor up, and moored with both bowers.^ Tlie _r7^6.^^ principal object we had in view, was to water tlie Hiips ; for this :_,__j we were fitnated very conveniently, as I have before obfervcd. We had al(b found during our cruize, that the Queen was not fuf- ficientlv deep in the water ; fo that fome hands were employed in fetching Hones to put in the hold, by way of ballair. Thefe em- ployments were fet about without delay, and both would have been compJeated in three or four days at fartheil, had we not been frequently interrupted by blowing Iqually weather : however, by the 1 4th,' both thefe objeds were entirely compleated, befides frelh flowing the hold. During this time all the people had been on fliore to recreate themfelves, land air being reckoned exceeding felutary and wholefomc for failors.
On the 1 4th, the people were employed in fettlng up the n<;ging fore and aft, and other necellkry buiinefs. On the 15th, an Eng- lidi (loop came to anchor in the harbour, and her boat going on board the King George, we learnt that (lie belonged to a (hip com- manded by a Captain lluifey, called the United Stales, but Uiitidi property, which lay in Hudey Harbour, Statcs-liay, Swan-liland. in company with a (hip from America. 1 he I'nited States was the property of Mrs. Ilayley, relict of the late George Hay'ey, VJ'o-- and lifter to m: ceiebrated Mr. Wilkes.
Thefe veflels had been at Falkland's Iflands occafionally for more (hau a XLiiv, and had wintered in Hudey Harbour before-men- tioned; fothat they were pcrfeaiy acquainted with the tides, the currents, and in il\ort every circumftance ncccliai y for the fafely navigating a (hip in any of the various road- bays, and fouial:;, lo numci'ous here.
i^urln:.
A \' O \ A G L 1^ O
il h
1 78').
Duiingihc time our nccclTary burincfs wns earned on, both our Capraius wcw einp'.oycvi in iurvcying tlie port, and various parts ot the land. In one or rliclc cxcuriions, they fell in with a birth tor the ihips, greatly preferable to tint we lay in, on the Wert fulc of the bay . and as tliey propoled ihiylng here a few days longer, it was deteinr.ned to lAc the vcllels there : fo early in the morning of tlio i6ti; we umuoored, and at eight o'clock made fail : at ten we came to .mcho'- in feven fathom water. W e loon found that our fituation was changed for the beit, being well iheltered from the wind, and no fweli to incommode us. 'Tis moil probable that this was near tiie place where Captain .Macbride lay in the year 1-66, when lie wintered hcic, as we found on the adjacent Ihore the ruins of leveral houfes, faid to be built by him, but delboyed fmce by the Spaniards.
From tlic 16th to the 19th, the people of both fliips were alter- nately on liiore, to recreate themfeU'cs, land air (as I have already obler\cd) being vciy falutary, and wholcfome for people in our fituations : indeed this ])lace affords little refrclhment of any other kind, as I ih;'.ll take notice by and bye.
Having learnt fiom Mr. Cofiin, Mailer of the Hoop, that 'li.rc •vvas a good paliage for us through the illands, and he kindly undertaking to lead the way as our pilot, our Cai)t:ins detvrmined to get to fea the fnll opportunity, as the feafon was already too far advanced for us to expect a good })airage roimd Caj)e liorn. Ac- cordingly we weighed anchor, and made fail early u\ the morning Gf the jfytli of January. At eight o'clock, the ti.;:;-llaff on Kep- pel's Illand(tlie fan)e on which Mr.Macleod hoided the lignal the morning we made Port Fgmont) bore Kail by South i Sandy Bay,
South-
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
39
both our ])arts ot liirth tor i\ tide of ■:i\ it was rning of it ten we that our from the able that the year .•nt ihore lelboyed
ere alter- e ah'eady le in our my other
hat '.Ii.rc
le kindly
:terniined
ly too far
in. Ac-
moj'niiig
on Kej')-
lignal the
,ndy Bay,
South-
South-Eaft by Soutli, and the Weftermoft point of land, South- ^t_786.^ Weft, at about four leagues diftancc.
We came to anchor at half part eight in the evening, without any material occurrence, off the Eall end of Carcafs Ifland, in twelve fathom water. In the morning of the 20th, we weighed and made fail, and came to anchor at noon in Wert-Point Harbour, in eight fathom water.
On the 2 10:, in the morning, wc again made fail. Mr. Coffni cautioned us to be on our guard, in rounding Well-Point, as the wind would pour upon us from tJie high land like a torrent. The morning was fine and clear, and the wind moderate ; yet luckily, we did not dcfpife his precaution, but had all hands ready to clue up the fails ; and well it was that we had, for before wc got well round the Point, the wind poured down upon us like a hurricane, and continued to blow with amazing impetuohty for near an hour, during which time we durft not Ihew a iingle yard of canvas ; but as we got clear of the high land, the wind grew moderate. At one o'clock we faw the tsvo ihips betore-men- tioned, riding at anchor in Huiley Harbour ; and at tliree o'clock we came to anchor in States Bay, Swan Illand, off Elephant Point, in feventeen fathom water, and about a mile from the American veffels.
Before I conclude, let me give thee as good an account of thefe Ulands as I am able, from what obfervations I b.ave made during our ffay here.
Thefe Illands were firft difcovcred by Sir Richard Hawkins, in J 594, but Captain Strong probably called them Falkland's Illand, 01
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A VOYAGK TO T H E
more propcily, ralklanil's lilands, as tlicre arc a confKlcrable num- ber of ilicni. It Ihoulcl ircm as it tlie Englifli piopofccl fettling a coloi-iv licrc, by Caj)tain Macbridc's llaying licrcauliole Ibafon, and ciediiig fcvoral hoaf.'b : thcfc, however, were delhoyed by the Spa- niards, who difpoired'ed us of the phice in 1770.
This atlair m.J.c a gnvat noife in London, and occafioncd mucl\ clamour amongll the pohtician^> at that time : but I iliall fay no jnore on this head, as thou art much better vcrfcd in the political billory of this phice than my<clf ; only jult oblcrvc, that we need not wonder at the Spaniards envying us the pollcnion of thefe illands, as tlicir lituation commands the palia^je to the Spanifh Settlements in the South Seas.
Port L.gmont, (viz. tliat part of it where we lafl lay at anchor) is fuuated in 51 dog. 12 min. South latitude, and 59 dc^. 54 min. Welt longitude, and is a mofl: fpacious harbour, perhaps large enough for all the (hips belonging to Great Britain to ride at anchor.
How far tlicfe illands cxtcml, I cannot pretend to lay with any degree of certainty ; but I imagine more than one degree in lati- tUvIc, and two degrees in longitude.
The fituation of Port Egmont feems to be nearly centrical ; fo by that, anil the former conje(::T:ure, thou maycll form a pretty good idea of their extent; ,
Though thefe illands are univerfaMy known by the name of Falkland's, yet many of them arc called by diliercnt names, jull, I prefume, as the fancy of different cruifers have luggcftcd : I jufl
* men-
11
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
4'
mention this circumll-ance to prevent tliy furprifc, on feeing fuck 1786. names as Swan Illaml, Keppel's Kland, ficc. &c. Januarv.
One would naturally Aippofe fropi the fituation, that the climate here is much the fame as that of England : this, however, fcems far from being the cafe. Though this is nearly the height of Summer here, yet the weather is fre(juently cold and winterly, the thermometer being never higher than 53 ckg. The winds have generally been werterly, with frequent fqualls and heavy rain.
The foil feems of a light, free nature, and well calculated for meadow or pallurc land ; indeed in many places it is no cafy )r.at- ter to tell what nature the foil is of, for the vegetation has grown, and rotted, and grown again, till great nmibers of large hillocks are formed, from the tops of which grow large blades of grafs ; thefe naturally inclining to each other, form a kind of arch, and alibrd occafional retreats for feals, lea-lions, penguins, 6cc. Sec. which abound here.
li
Near the ruins of the town are a number of fmall piccec of ground, inclofed with turf, which, no doubt, were intended for gardens, as it might eafily be perceived that '.licy had been in a cul- tivated itate. In one of them 1 found feveral forts of iloweis, ami fome fine horfe-reddilh. 'Tis fomething remarkable, tliat there f;iows not a tree, or any thing like it, on thcle illands : oiu- people, after much fearching, found lome brulli-wood, but fo fmall, that it would fcarcely fcrve to make brooms for the Ihip's ufe.
There arc few or no in feds to be met with here, though Mr. J logan, Surgeon of the King CJeorge, who is a confulerablc [Mo- ticient in Natural IlilVory,. took inlinite pains to procure fome.
F Oil
AZ
A VOYAGE TO THE
On the beaches are great nun^bcrs of gccfcand chicks, but much fmallcr, and of a diff-ercnt fpccics from oiir's : they are prcity tame, and eaiily run down. Oar i)co|)le were greatly elated on feeing them, I'll igining they Ihould live luxurioully during our (lay ; but here they were gricvouily difappointed, for both geefc and ducks eat c.^.-lingly rank and fiihy, owing, no doubt, to their con- ibr.tly fetuiiig on marine produclions ; fo that they foon grew hcait'ly tired of them as food, though the excrcife of running them down was both agreeable and healthy.
Befidcs thcfe, liere are various other kinds of the feathered tribe, the principal of which are the Port Egmont hei 'leil the Ikua- guU by Pennant) and the albatrofs. Pennant dutinguillies the Ipecics found here by the name of the wandering albatrofs, though at what time of the year they migrate I cannot fay : however, I am certain that this is the time of tiieir incubation, as I lluvievcral hundreds of tiiem fetting on their nells, ami great numbers of young fcarcely fledgeci. The Port Egmont hen is a very ravenous bird, fomething like a hawk, only largei' ; they are very numerous here j indeed lb arc many other kinds, though it is not in my power to particularize them. I fliall, therefore, conclude this article with obferving, that the only bird we caught here, which eat without any rank fiiliy talk, is called by lailors a feapic : this bird is not web-footed, but has claws much like our fowls, and fub- fills chiefly on worms, 5cc. feldom or never going far from the fea- (ide.
Our people frequently atremptcd to c:Uch fil]i, but were always
difapj)ointed, lb that we began to conclude thefe illands were not
blelfed with that capital part ol the creation ; but Captain I luliey
making us a prefent of fontc line mullet, convinced us of our niif-
- take.
.1
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
43
take. It fccms thefc arc almoft the only kind of fifli found here, 1786. and tlicy often caught tlicm in large quantities. On many of the J"""^^''-" beaches are large beds of nuifcles and limputs, and various other marine productions, fome of which fcrve as food for the penguins, gcefe, 6:c. &c. indeed there is no doubt but every one of them has its ufes, as we are well alfured, that the Almighty Creator of the Univerfc made nothing in vain.
I have endeavoured to take fome notice of every thing that has come within my obfervation ; and thou muft attribute my not giving thee a better account of this place not only to want of opportunity, but to a much worfe, viz. a want of ability.
Our bufincfs is all compleated, and every thing in readinefs for ns to ])ut to fea, I'o that the nrll fair wind carries us from this place, in order to double Cape Horn, that place fo much dreaded by many adventurers in the voyage of matrimony, and on which numbers of them founder : however, it is to hv hoped this will never be the fortune of thine, 6c c.
\V. B.
Falkland's Lian'ds, ?
L L 'r T K II
•i4 J7S6.
j;:ini:!rv,
A VOYAGE TO THE
L E T T E R XII.
T"^ ARLY in the morning of the 23CI January we weighed JLL/ anchor and made I'aii. At nine o'clock the North-Weft end of New J Hand bore South- Weft by South, dillance five mile? Ourhuitiuie at noon was 51 deg. 35 min. South, and longitude 60 (leg. 54 min. Well. During ilie afteinoon and evening, the wea- ther was thick and hazy, with fmall driz/hng rain.
At eight o'clock in th^ morning of the 24tii, the Weft end of Falkland's lilands bore North- Hail, at ten leagues diftance : our latitude at noon 52 dcg. j min. South. W'c kept ft-anding to the Southv.artl, it being our intention to get well clear of Cape Horn, that in cafe of contrary winds, we might double it with fafety.
From the 24th to the 26th, we had moderate hazy weather, with Nortli-wclK-rly winds : latitude on the 26th, i;^ de;^. 39 min. South. We here found the variation of the comi)afs to be 25 deg. to the Eallward. At ten o'clock in the evening of the 26th, we faw Staicn's Land, bearing South-Eaft. During the night we had frequent fqualls, attended with lightning,
At eight in the morning of the 27th, the extremes of Staten's Land bjie from South a quarter WclV, to Well half South, di'iance fiom the ihore about five miles. Towards nine o'clock 'AC faw a lipliiig a-head, which occalioned us to (horten fail, aiul bear up; but foon aftciwards wc found it wa^ occafioncd by the c urrent, on which we again hauled to the Southward and made fail.
The
^ I
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
45
The North-Weft fide of Statcn's Land is very mountainous, and 1786, appears extremely barren ; but I am informed the Eall fide is •._']^_'''_[;'^ woody, and tolerably level. In the evening, the extremes of the land bore from Weft-North-Weft to North by Well, at nine leagues dillance. From the 28th to the 30th, we had heavy gales of wind, and frequent tqualls j the wind veering from South by uafl: to Well.
The 3 1 ft, and to the 4th of February, was more moderate. We now had made a good offing from Cape Morn, our latitiuU'nt noon on the 4th being 60 deg. 14 min. South, and our longitude 67 deg. 30 min. Weft. Our courfe now changed to North- W eft, our Cajitains vvilhing to get ftill further to the Weftwartl, that if we Ihould have Wefterly winds, we might keep well clear of the Con- tinent. Since our leaving Falkland's ..-ands, the weather has been very cold andfevere, with frequent Itorms of rain andllect ; the thermometer generally at 44 deg. Indeed we are later in tlie fealbn than could have been wilhed, yet this is the Summer Ibafon in this part of the world. During the greateft part- of Febiuary, we had conltant and fevere gales of win<l from the North and North-^^'eft, with very heavy crofs ieas, which retarded our p -o- grefs exceedingly, our latitude on the aSth being 5.'. deg. 14 min. South, and our longitude 84 deg. 34 min. Weft.
I have often admired that emphatic defcription of pcil()..s in i\ ■ ftorm, recorded in the lojih IM'alm ; but its b'-auty i.ow ftrikes me fo forcibly, in confequence of our late fituatioi;, that 1 cannot , forbear tranfcribing it.
" They that go down to the fea in Hilps, and occu-py their " bufmefb in great waters. Thele men fee the works of the Lord, " and his wonders in the deep. For at his word, the (lonuy
'' wind
>'t\
i
" I t
46
173-3.
A VOYAGE TO TFIE
" wind iiillctli, which liftcth up tlie waves thereof. They are
" carricil iij) to th;; Heaven, and down again to the deep. Their
" Ibul niclteth away becauic of the trouble. They reel to and
" d'o, and llagger like a drunken man, and are at their wit's end,"
I ll\all make no apology for troubling tliec with this pafTage from Sacred Writ, not only becaufe I know thou canft be ferious ujion occalion, but as it defcribcs ihe feelings of people in diftrefs at lea, bettor than v. volume 011 the fubjed.
I forgot to mention, that on the 27th we found the gammoning of oiu- bowlprit gone, on which we fliortened fail, and got it fecured with a new one.
The weather now grows more moderate, with frefh Wcfterly breezes, fb that we proceed on our voyage a-pace. After I am a little recovered from the fatigue of the late tempefluous weathci, thou wilt again hear from thine, &c.
W. B.
At Sea, 1 Crh March. I
LETTER XIII.
OBSERVED to thee in the concUifion of my lafV, tliat the weather gr-jw moderate, and tolerably line, and every thing iVcnied !)ovv to promife a continuation of it. It being uncci-tain
how
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Iiow long it would he before we came to anchor, Captaui Dixon, on the 7th of March, put the (hip's company to i\u allowance of water, at two quarts a man per clay, bclitlcs an allowance for j^eas tlnce times per week. Latitude at noon, 44 deg. 13 niin. South, longitude 83 deg. 25 min. Weft.
On the 23d, at noon, we were in 34 <lcg. 8 min. South latitude. Though the trade winds can feldom be depended on out of the Tropics, yet we were lucky enoui;h to meet with a pretty regular trade in this latitude : this determined our Captainr> to l\.;er for l.os Majos, (an Illand, or rather a group of Illands fecu by the Spaniards, and laid down by them in 20 dog. North latitude, and 130 deg. Weft longitude) as thev were likely to afford every kind of refrelhment we wanted, and at the fame time were very little out of our courfe.
47
At fix o'clock in the evening of the 25tli, we faw a ftrange fail to the North- Weft, and at ten llie pallid us nearly within hail : we expelled ftie would have fpoke us, but this ihc declined. We could not fee her diftindly enough to know what country (lie came from ; but it is very probable ihe was a Spania.d going to lialilivia. We brought out two calks of cyder, which began to be laved oirt the 3d of April, at an allowance of a pint a day per man. This was a moft agreeable beverage, as the weather now grew intenfely hot and fultry ; the wind from liaft to North-Eaft.
On the 5th, the armourer's forge was got upon deck, and fixed up. Heinimediatcly began to work, in making fundry things for the (hip's ufe, and likewife toes for our future trafTic. Thele toes are long flat pieces of iron, not much unlike a carpentcr'splaiie-iron, .
oiilv.
-p
1786.
Mav.
48 A \' O V A C E T O T n E
only ivirrow'cr; tlicy arc htkl in great cftimatioii by tlic Indians, and as inch vvc expect rhcin tvo be finf^ulariy ureful in our future trade.
On the 6r!i, the cirpcnters were employed in making ports for guns, and Hxtuics for fwivels ; and on tlie loth we had two guns (four ])ouadcrs) and eight fwivels fixed on the quarter-deck.
On the 20th, being in i d\:g. North latitude, and the weather extremely fultry, our allowance of water was incrcafed to three quarts a man per liay. Tl:e latter end of this month we caught a number of flunks : tlicf'e are reckoned very coarfe, rank food, and they ceitainly arc lb : but to us, who had been fo long on fait pro- ^•ifions, they were a prize, ami l.y making a mefs which fhilors call chouder, of them, they eat very pahr.ably. The weather was very hot and I'ultry, with frequent light airs, fometimcs inclining to calm.
From tlie ift to the 3d of May, we favv numbers of turtle, which gave us realbn to hope that we fhould fall m with a turtle ifland, cfpccially as Captain Cook, in his lail voyage, fell in with one not many degrees from us ; but in this v/e were difappointed.
With all our endeavours, we only caught one ; but Captain Portlock was more lucky, owing to his whale-boat being fixed on the Ihip s quarter ; fb that when they faw any turtle, his people could iauncli tlie boat, and be after them in a minute ; by which means they cauglit from ten to fourteen per day, part of which was always lent on board us : fo that though turtle was a kind of luxury, yet \ve began to be pretty well fatiated with it : this refj)ite from fait provifions mull, however, have been of fingulaj- fervice to J.'Otl) fliij)s companies.
Oil
4
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Our obfcrvation at noon, on the 8th of May, gave 17 deg. 4 min. North latitude, and 129 ikg. 57 min. Weft longitude: in this lituation we lookeil for an Uland called by the Spaniards Rcco Partida, but in vain ; however, we flood to tiie Northward under an eai'y I'ail, and kept a good look out, expecting foon to fall in with the group of illands already mentioned.
From the 1 ith to tiie 14th, we lay to every night, and when we made fail in the morning, fpread at the diftance of eight or ten miles, (landing Wefterly : it being probable that though the Spaniards might have been pretty corre»5l in the latitude of thefe illands, yet they might eafily be miftaken feveral degrees in their longitude: but our latitude on the 15th, at noon, being 20 Atg. 9 min. North, and 140 deg. i min. Weft longitude, which is con- fiderably to the Weftward of any ifland laid down by the Spaniards, we concluded, and with reafon, that there muft be fome grofs mif- take in their chart.
47
1786.
May.
Hitherto the people in general on board the Queen had enjoytd a pretty good ftate of health, except Mr. Turner, our Second Mate, who was taken ill foon after we left St. Jago, and Captain Dixon.. who latterly had been attacked by a complication of difordcrs ; but now the fcurvy began to make its appearance amongft us, many of the people being affedled more or lefs, and one man entirely laid up with it. Though every anti-fcorbutic on board was nfed with the greateft care and regularity, yet we found all would be ineffeclual, without the afliftance of frefli air, frelh water, provifions, vegc- tabks, &c. on which it was determined to make Sandwich Illands as foon as pollible.
G
Being
{1; .it;]
car
^^
so
17S0.
A lay.
A VOYAGE TO T IT K
Being already in our prop:r Lititudo, we kopt ftandlng to tlic Wclhvard, with a fine leading breeze ; and at levcn o'clock in the morning of the 24th, we law Owhylice, tlic principal of the Sand- wich Illands, bearing Well, diilancc about fouiteen leagues. At noon, the North-Eall point bore Nortii, at \\n:c leagues diftance. As it was well known that this illand aft'ordcd every thing we wanted in abuiular.cc, the fight of it put every jicrfon on board in freili fjiirits After ihnding along the Ihore to liays, with light winds, frequently inclining to cahr., we came to anchor on the Weft fide of the illantl, in Karakkakooa Bay, at one o'clock on the 26th, in tight fathom water, the Weft point oftiieUay bearing Weft by North, and the South point, South half Weft, at about a mile diftant from iliore. In the afternoon we were lurrounded by an innumerable quantity of canoes, and vaft numbers of both fexes» in the water ; many of thefc, no doubt, came to fee us thi\High curiofity, but numbers brought various conunoditits to fell, lucli as hogs, fvveet potatoes, plaintains, bread, fruit, &c. thefe we pur- chafed with toes, Hlh-hooks, nails, and other ai tides of triiliu'T value : the people bought liftiing-lines, mats, and various other curiofities.
Early in the moi'ning of the 27th, we began to pi-eparc for watering, intending to difpatch that with all expedition ; but Captain Dixon going on boaid the King George, was informed, to our very great difappointmcnt, that the inhabitants wcic growing troubleibme, and that they had already tabooed the watering place. This ceremony of tabooing is performed bv their priefts, and is done by ftieking a number of fmall wands, tiptwith a tuft of white hair, round any place they want to kecj) private, after which, no perfon prefumes to approach the place, and I believe the punilhmcnt is death for an oftence of this kind. We were
afraid
,1
NORTH-WKST COAST OF AMERICA.
afraid at iirll, tliat this treatment might proceed from a remem- brance of the loH'cs they llirtained after the melancholy death of Captain Cook, who was killed in this harbour ; but that was not the cafe : the reafon they gave for this proceeding was, that all their Chiefs being abfent, engaged in war with a neighbouring illand, they uurft not, on any account, fuffer Grangers to come on fliorc.
5'
1786. Ma-
One ofoi.r principal objecls being thus fruftrated, our Captains
are determined to leave this place as foon as poifible ; mean while,
we keep purchafing hogs, fowls, vegetables, &c. in abundance ;
and I believe every perfon or board has already began to feel the
good effects of frefli vi(5tuals, but fcarcely any one more than
thine, 6cc.
W. B.
Sandwich Islands, 1 28th May. J
LETTER XIV.
BEFORE I proceed with my narration, give me leave to obferve to thee, that the Sandwich I (lands were difcovered by the late Captain Cooke, in his laft Voyage to the Pacific Ocean. 0\\ iivhce, the principal, is the firft to the Southward and Eaftward j the rcil: run in a direction nearly North- Weft. The names of the p/mcipnls arc, Mowee, Moretoy, Ranai, Whahoo, Attooi, and Oneehow. 'i his will, I prefume, be fufficicnt for thy information
at prefent.
At
■ i
III
52
J 7 86.
[uiie.
A VOYAGE TO THE
At eight o'clock in the evening of the 27th, we weighed and made fail, tacking occafionally during the night, and the v/holc of the 28thj having hght vaiiahle winds. Tlie people were employed in killing hogs, and falting them for the fliip's ufe. A number of canoes dill kept following as with hogS; vegetables, &c.
At noon, on the 29tli, Karakkakooa bore North-Eaft by Eafl:, dillance fcven or eight leagues ; and the high land of Mowee, (the I/land we intended nexi to touch at) in fight. A ftrong breeze during the whole of the 30th, prevented our touching at Mowec. In the morning th Uland of Rai\ai bore North North-Weft, at fix leagues diftance j and at noon a high blutf to the Weftvvard bore North by Weft, diftance one league. We kept ftandiiig for Wha- hoo with a good Eafterly breeze.
A.t eight in the morning of tlie 31ft, the Nortli Eaft end of Moretoy bore North North Eaft, diftance about fix leagues. At noon we faw Whahoo; the South Eaft part bore Weft South Weft, and the North Eaft part North Weft; latitude 21 (leg. 14 min. North.
On the ift of June, at one in tlie afternoon, we came to anchor in a bay on the South fide of Whahoo, in eight and half fathom water, c er a fandy bottom ; the extremes of the land bearing from E^ft South Eaft to Weft by South, diftance from fliore near two miles. We had prefently a number of canoes along-lide, but hogs and vegetables were mucli fcarcer here tlianat Ouhyhce.
Early in the morning of the 2d, our Captains went on fliore, in order to find a watering place, and procure accommodations for the fick : they foou met with good water, but the accd's to it was
very
.1
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
53
very cUnicult, occafioncd by a reef of rocks which run ah-iioft: the length of the bay, at a considerable diltance from the Ihore, and lb high, that it was fcarcely practicable, and by no means fafe for a loaded boat to venture over : this circumllance made us defpair of filling our water at this illand ; but Captain Dixon taking notice that moft of the people in the canoes had fevcral gourds, or cala- baflics full of water, he dire6led us to purchafe them, which wc cafily did for nails, buttons, and fuch like trifles : indeed To fi-nd v/ere they of this traHic, that every other object was totally aban- doned, and the whole Illand, at leaft that part which lay next us, were employed in bringing water : for a fmall, or a middling-iizod calabafli, containing perhaps two or three gallons, wcgave a fmall nail ; and for larger ones in proportion. Thus, in this very lin- gular, and I may venture to fay, luiprecedented manner, were both fliips compleatly (li])plied with water, not only at a trivial expence, but alfo laving our boats, calks, and tackling, and preferving the people from wet, and the danger of catching cold. During the time we were taking in water, &:c. our people were bulied in Ic-t- tlin"" up the rigging fore and aft, fcraping the Ihip's lides, and other necelFary employments. The Surgeon took the fick people on Ihore on the 2d, expeding the land air would be of ler\ ice to them ; but the weather was very fultry, and the inhabitants crowded about them in fuch numbers, that they were obliged to come on board, fatigued inflead of being refreflied by thtiir jauni.
Oncof our grand objects was now compleated, and our fick peo- ple in fomemeafure recovered ; but we wifhed, if pollible, to pro- cure a farther I'upply of hogs, vegetables, 6cc. and Whahoo afford- ing but little of either, it was determined to make Attoui with all expedition, that illand abounding with every thing we wiihed for,
'uiic.
jt!
At
54
n86. Tunc.
A y O Y A G !• T () THE
At fcven in the moi'ning of tlie i;th, \vc weighed anchor, and ibood tor Attoui, vAih moderate breezes and cloudy vvcatlicr. At noon the Soutli point of Whahoo bore Ea!l South Eall, diflancc fix leagues, latitude 21 deg. 15 min. North.
In the morning of the 6tli, v\e faw Attoui ; and at noon, the high point upon tlic iouih-Eaft end bore Weft North Weft, at iiine leagues diftancc% Whahoo ftill in light.
, ]))■ three o'clock in the afternoon of the 7th, vvc were a-breaft of Wymoa-Bay, Attoui, the place we propofed coming to anchor in ; but the wind blowing pretty ftrong from the South Eaft, and the bay (piite open to that quarter, Captain Portlock declined coming to here, and propofed ftanding for Onechow, which at four o'clock bore Wert North Weft, at abo n five leagues dillance. During the night, we tacked occafionally ; and at ten in the morning of the 8th, we came to anchor in Yam Bay, Oneehow, in feven- tecn fathom water, over a fandy bottom. The North point of the bay bore North North Eaft, and the South point South by Ivaft, at one and half mile diftance from Ihore. '1 his I Hand pro- duces great quantities of excellent yams, and the inhabitants brought us a plentiful fupply, which we purchafed for nails, and fuch like trifles : indeet this place produces no great plenty of any thing befides, there being but few inhabitants here, compared with Attoui, Whahoo, &:c. 6cc. Our fick were taken on ihore here, and found great benefit from the land air, as they could walk about at their cafe, without being molefted by the inhabitants. The })rin- cipal Chief at this illand is called Abbenooc ; he fcenis a very active, intelligent pcrfon, and Captain Portlock making him fome trilling prefents, was wholly attachetl to us ; lo that our lick were nnich better acconmiodated on his account. We got verv few
hog.s
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V
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
hogs here, and thcfc were chiefly brought from Attoui : however, as our people are pretty well recovered, and every necelFary bufiiiels on boaidthe fliips compleated, we Ihall lofe no time in the profe- cution of our voyage, but get to fea as foon as poflible. Thou maycfl depend on a farther continuation the carlieft opportunity, from
\v. r..
Sandwich Islandi, I J 2tli June. J
LETTER XV.
THOU mayeft: fee by the place from which this is dated, that we at laft arc arrived at the bufy fcene of aclion, and per- haps thou wilt infer, at the fummit of our lioj)cs, wiihes, and expectations ; but have a little patience, my good friend, and thou wilt perceive, that " all is not gold that glitters."
I informed thee at the conclufion of my laft, that we were get- ting ready for fea with all expedition, our atttcntion being as inva- riably tixed on the American Coaft, as the needle is to the North. Hnving procured as many hogs as our time would permit, together with an excellent llock of yams, we weighed anchor on the i ^th of June, at ten in the foienoon, and made fail, landing to the North- Well, with moderate breezes, and fine weather.
As it is probable we fliall touch at Sandwich Illands, perhaps; more than once during the courfe of our voyage, I (hall defer giv- ing thee any further account of them at prefent, as in that cafe I
fliall.
55
1786.
fuilf.
!■!
56
1786. Julv.
A V O Y A G E T O T II E
fliall be able to defcribc tliem more particularly than I now have It in my power to do.
No very material occurrence happened during the greateft part of our pailagc from the lilands to Cook's River : however, as thou art fond of particulars, though ever fo trifling, I will endeavour to oblige thee in tliat refpcct.
On the ijth, being well clear of the land, we changed our courfc to North and North by Eall, and from that to the 2 2d, had moderate breezes, with fine weather.
i'lom the a-^d to the 2Sth, frequent ftrong breezes with rain i the wind veering from South Weft to North Weft, but more fre- quently fmcc the trade winds left us, whic!. they did about the latitude 26 deg. North.
From the 2Qth of June to the ift of July, we had light variable winds, with thick fogs, and drizzling rain ; latitude on the 30th of June 40 deg. 30 min. North, longitude 151 deg. 42 min. Weft
On the 2d of July, the water changing its colour, and a number of Icals being feen playing about us (one of which .vas ftruck and got on board the King George) we founded with a line of 120 fathom, but got no bottom. On the 3d, we faw a piece of wood floatinir on the water, with a number of birds on it : we had fre- qucnt gales from the North Weft, with rain. On the 4th, being in 45 deg. 2 min. North latitude, and 152 deg. 14 min. Weft longitude, we found a ftrong current fetting to the South Weft.
*l
From the 5th to the iith, we liad variable winds from South
Eaft to South Wert, fometinies ftrong breezes, with foggy weather
1 and
^
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
and mucii rain. On the loth, our obfcrvation at noon gave 49 178G. i.[c<^. 5 1 min. North latitude ; and 147 dcg. 14 min. Weft longitude ; ■^^'^'" the weather thick and hazy.
We frequently iavv large quantities of fea-weed, called by failors fea-leeks, and a fpccics of birds much refembling Cape pigeons. The I ith, in tiie evening, the moon was totally eclipfed, but the evening and night were fo \ory thick and foggy, that we could not obtain the leaft fight of it.
By the 13th, our ftock of yams was nearly expended, an incon- venience which we felt very heavily, as they anfwered every pur- pofe, both of potatoes and bread. We frequently paficd pieces of wood and fea-weed, and faw various fpecies of birds. Latitude at noon on the 13th, 54 deg. 55 min. North; longitude 147 deg. iS niin. Weft.
On the 15th, the colour of the water altering very much, the King George frequently founded with 90 to 120 fathom line, but found no bottom. Latitude at noon, ^y deg. 4 min. Nortli ; lon- gitude 149 dcg. 50 min. Weft.
On the 16th, we had n number of pufilns, gulls, fc:i-pnrrots, anvl other birds about us ; f."a-leeks and pieces of wood continually palling us : on this we iounded at ten r/clcck in the K-ronoon, witli 120 fathom line, but got no bottom. Our obfcrvation at noon gave 58 deg. 14 min. North latitude, and our longitude was 151 deg. 13 min. Weft. At ilx in the afl.rnoon, v,c foundcil with 1^5 fathom line, over a bottom of black rock aiv.l find, intermixed with a kind of black ihcils. At lc\c;i o'clock, being then ftanding nearly Nortli, we fu'.v tiic iar.d to our gnvat 1^7, bearing North Weft by Weft, ai about ciglit icaguco diftance,
.U ^ind
57
i'l ' i
1786- July.
58 A VOYAGE T O THE
and which wc judged to be near Cook's River. During the evening, \vc liad a number of wluiles playing about liie lliip. 1 forf;()t to obfcrvc before, that our original deltination was Hrll to King George's Sou;id : but as wc were confiderably hiter in the icdion than v.e c;/tv t\pc6led to be, our Capuiins judged it moil prudent to make Cook's River tiril, and Hand along tlie coad to the Southv/ard, as the feai'oa advanced.
Tlic wind being riglit againft us, we plied to windward during the 17th and 18th, when wc found the land feen on the evcnin^ of the 1 6th, to be a group of illands, called by Cai}tain Cook the Barren Illands, and fituated at the entrance of Cook's River.
At four in the afternoon of tlie i8th, wc faw the IHand St. Ilermogenes, bearing from Soutli South Weft to Weft, at three leagues diftance. The whales near the land were To numerous, tliat tlicir blowing rcfemMed a large reef of j-ocks.
At eleven o'clock in the forenoon of the. 19th, we made the en- trance of Cook's River, leaving the Barren Illes to the South- ^^ ard and Ealh\ard. Both wind and tide being now in our favour wc kept ftanding along the Eaftern fliore, intending, if pofiible, to make Anchor Point befoie we let go our anchor ; but at fcven in the aftci-noon we were fwrprized with the report 01 a gun, which proceeJed i\\m a bjy nearly a-breaft of us, at about four miles diftance. Ciiptain Portlock immediately fired a gun, by v.-ny of anfwering tliis fignal, and there being every appearance of a good harbour, he determined to ftand in, ap.d come to anchor, in order tint w: n-igiit know what nation had got the ftart of us.
Various were our conjeaurcs on this head ; fome thinkin'r they might pollibly be our own countrymen ^ others, that tlicy^werc
I'rcnch,
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
French; atid inclcci.1 this latter conjecture had a'gooddcal of wciglit w itii us, as vvc had heard of two French (liips fitting out for this coall, at the time we left England. However, all our furmifes were foon changed into ccrtaiiity, for as wc were llanding into the hay with a light breeze, a boat came from the fliore to the King George, and the people proved to be Ruilians.
At eight o'clock, being well into the bay, wc came to anchor in thirty-five fathom water. Point Bcde bearing Eafi: North Eaft, at three miles diilance J and Mount St. Augufline South Weft by Wefl. ^
59
1786.
JMV.
I
Soon after our anchor was gone, four or five canoes, with a finglc perfon in each, canK along-fide us. We wcie fo elated with this promifing appearance, that an adbrtment of our various articles of trade was immediately got to hand, and abundance of furs were already on board, /// our nucgination : but thcfe plcafmg ideas fooi\ vaniflied, for we fbon found that thcfe people belonged to the Kufiians.
Though our cxpeclr.tions of finding inliabitants here were dlf- appointed, yet as the piace was found very convenient for procuring ii fupjily of Vk'ood and v.-ater, rn'cry ncceiTary preparation \\-as made for that purpofc, and parties fent on fhorc in the morning of the 20th, to cut v/c)0(l and till water : in the mean time, our Captains went in the ki g George'.; whale-boat to the Rufilan Fai'lory, i'l order to pick up \viki: intelligence they could, rcfpectiiig their bufineis on this coall.
It ■ 'he Ruilianj I.-^d no iixcilfttdcr..ent licrc., and, i:i fliorr,
no otlicr rcliJcncc than a mere temporary one, uhitJi t! lv had
2 m.adc
:J.:,
t.:M
Co
A VOYAGE TO THE
made bv hauling tlicir boats on fliore, and laying tlicni on theif bcani-cnds, with ikins drawn fore and aft, to llicltcr thcni from the inclemency of the weather. All that could be learnt from them was, that tlicy came in a Hoop from Onalalka, and that the people wc b.ad icen in the canoes were Codiac Indians, which they had brou-lit \vit!i thcip., the- better to facilitate their traffic with the inhabitants of Cook's River, and the adjacent country; but not- withilanding this, they liad frequently quarrelled and fought with the natives, and were at prcient on fuch bad terms with them, that they never went to lleep without their arms ready loaded by their iule. However, the accounts we got feldom agreed, and gave lis but an inditlerent idea of their proceetlings, though this might arife, in a great meafure, from our having but a very imperfecf knowledge of the Rullian language : thus much we were pretty certain of, that they had met Nvith very few, if any ikins, though they had got nankeens, and Perfiau fiiks to traffic with.
The watering place here is fo very convenient, th.at wc com- pleated our water in one day, viz. the 2 lO : from that to the 26th, the people were employed in cutting wood, and recreating thcm- felves on Ihore.
On the 24th, our Captains wTut to furvcy the bay, and land- ing on the South-Halt point they found a vein of coals, fomc of which were brought on board: the bay from this circumllance obtained the name of Coal Harbour.
i
Our people frequently tried tt) catch fifh v/ith a hook and line, but to no purpoie : howevei-, Captain Portlock having a Line 011 board, it was frecpieiuly haulcil with fuccefs, and large (p;ant:ties of fine lahnoii caught, which v/ert generally dlvi-led between
the Ih
ips.
T!ic
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AiMERlCA.
The country here is very mountainous : the hills Hoping down neareft the fliore, arc totally covered with pines, intermixed with birch, alder, and various other trees and fhrubs, whilll the more dillant mountains, whofe lofty fumniits outreach the clouds, arc totally covered with fnow, and have the appearance of evcrlarting Winter. But I fhall not atprefent attempt any further defcription of a country, which as yet I am fo little acquainted with : let it fiifficc for thee at prefent to know, that though this is the latter end of July, the weather is in general cold, damp, anddifagreeabJc, with frequent (liowers of fnow or fleet; and the furrounding pro- fpect bairen, dreary, and uncomfortable. So much at prclcnt for the prowifcd /iUiJ. Tliine ever,
\V, B,
Cook's River, 25th JuJy.
}
6r>.
I'ulv.
iif
M
iii
I i
i
fl
f
i I.
f'^iH
LETTER XVI.
HAVING complcated our water, and got on l>oard a fufli- cient quantity of wood for prefent ufe, we weighcil anchor early in the mornintr of the 26th, and llood outfor the m.ain river, as our Captains knew we fliould find inhabitants farther to the Northward ; and tl-.ere was not the leall: doubt of meeting with furs wherever we could find people. The tide in the river is very rapid, running at leall four knots per hour -, (o that there was a neccllity of coming to anchor every tide, uiilefs aliiftcd by a Ircih favouiable breeze : this, however, was lool;eil upon by us as a mat- ter of little confequence, as we expcC'tal fiich plenty of traiiic up the liver, that our frequent authoring would be abfoluti^ly neocl- fary ; but in this we were dilappoi'.Ucd.
Dn.iii'"':
\2
'tz
A VOYAGE TO THE
.786. During the 26th and 27th, vvc kept ftaiuling up tlie river with
•^"'^'* variable winds, and moderate weather : no inhabitants came near us, nor any particular occurrence happened. At noon on the 27th, the Burning Mountain bore South-Weft by Weft. A confiderable fmoke iliued from its fummil, which is very h^fty, but we faw no iiry eruption ; nor did I find, on enquiry of Captain Dixon, that they ever law anv greater appearance of a volcano from this moun- tain, thn-ing their cruize up this river, their laft \'oyage, at which time it was difcovcred.
At three o'clock in the afternoon of the 28th, we came to anchor in eleven fat'nom water, over a fandy bottom, the adjacent coaft to the Weftwrj-d about three miles diftance, tolerably level, and likely, in the opinion of onr Captains, to produce Furs. In the i.',\;iing, a linglc canoe, wiih one man in her, came aJong-fule us, but brought nothing, except a little dried falmon, which we bought for a few beai!^ with which he feemcd perfectly fatisfied. 'Tis moft probabl'w tiiis man came purpofely to reconnoitre us, and learn our ijitcntions ; foi' when lie underftood that we came to tr:'.de peace- ably, and was fiicwn various articles we had to traffic with, he was very well pleafed,_and gave us to underftand that the people (point- ing to the Ihore) would bring us plenty of Ikin-; by the next day's fun. Early in the morning of the 29th, v/c had fevcral canoes along-lldc us ; Ibme fo fmall, that they hold only one or two men, and othei'3 with from ten to foiu'teen pco])!e in them : thev brought U3 Ikins oi various forts, fuch as land and fca ottei'*, bears, racoons, marmotts, 5cc. &c. for which they took toe and blue beads, but the toes arc held in the greatcft eftimation, a mid- dling fized toe fetching the bert (.tter ikin they had got. During the greatcft part of the day, we tiadcd with jn-etty good fuc- ccis, the uihabitants behaving in a qtuct, orderly maunei-, and
wc
X
^
^. *
■^
'fi ilfi
n
•fkri:
U\
i: I r L t t e I t f c t
.■n i c v
.1
H'
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICr^. k.
we kept up this friendly intercourfe by every method in our i;86. power, being perfectly convinced, that a kind and mild treat- J^''>- nient was the fureft means of procuring what we wanted from thefe favages.
Towards evening, the wind blowing frefh, no canoes ventured to come near us ; but the weather proving modeiate on the 30th, a number of fmall canoes, and two large ones, came alonr';-ride, from whom we purchafed every thing they had worth picking up.
By our obfervation to-day at noon, the place v/hcre v/e now lav is in 60 deg. 48 min. North latitude} and 152 dc^. 11 min. Well: longitude. From this to the 3d of Auguft, the weather was mode- rate and fine : cur friends kept bringing us Ikins of various kinds, but gave us to underilaud, that their own were all iolc!, and that they were obliged to trade with ♦■ribes in diilant parts of the coun- try, in order to fupply us. They alio brought us great plenty of excellent frelli falmon, which we bought very cheap, giving a linglc bead for a large fiili ; indeed they v.ere fo plentiful, tliat at anv time if we refufed to purchafe, they would thi'ow the fiih on board, fooncr than be at the pains to take them back. The falmon come into the river in iiuunucrabic ihoals, at this fcalbn of the year, and are caught by the natives in wears, v, 1th tlie greatell cafe ; they are fmoked and dried in their huts, arul iiiakc a very confiderable part of then- I'ood during the Winter. Wh.at a fiefli inflance this of tiiegoodnefs of Divine Provivlcncc towards his creatures ! Ho'-v bcuntitully he hrith ])roviu:d for'tlie'e poor wretcb.cs, in tlui barren and Inbofpitablc pait of the world ! Surely, after this no o!ie can afk with the dif.ontcntcd 1 iVaeUtC':;^ " Can God fprcad a table in tlij sv:!dcnicr>."
(J!-
,*^'li
n
; '!-'
64
A V O Y A G E T O T 11 E
On the 4th of Augult, wc liad a llrong breeze from the South South Eall:, wliich prevented any canoes coming near us ; but the weather, on tlie ^th, behig pretty moderate, feveral canoes came along-fide, but the people had vcy kw ikins. and they gave us to underftand, that the country was pretty well drained. We were moored with both "bowers, but this morning we took up the bel>, in order to be ready for lea, when Captain Portlock fliould make the fignal.
In the morning of the 6th, we had ftrong breezes from the South South Well, with rain, which continued till noon on the 7th, when the weather turned moderate. In the afternoon, Cajitain Portlock came on board us, and propofed weighing anchor at fcnr o'clock rlie next morning. Accordingly, we weighed, and were making iail, when Captain Portlock fent his Third Mate on board us, with a meiiiigc, intnnating, that as the weather promifed very unfa- vourably, we had much better ilay where we lay, than run the rilque of getting a bad iituation in a gale of Vvind ; accordingly, we a2;ainletgo our anchor, and loon found his fuggcll-ion a good one, for in tlic evening there came on a very heavy gale of wind, which continued the greateit part of the night. We again moored Ihip, with the bert l)ovver ; but in the morning of the 9th, the weather gi'owing moderate, we hove it up again, in order to be ready for iailing with the iirll: fair wind. For feveral days pall, but few canoes had been near us, and thele brought us nothing but old tat- tered pieces, the remnants of dirty Ikins which they had wore to deil-nd themfelves from the inclemency of the vveathei- : indeed for fomc time part, what good Ikins they brought were cut into ilrips, probably with a view to obtain better prices ; but this jiradicc ve difcountenanccd as much as poflible.
Before
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Before I proceed farther, let me endeavour to give thee fome iilea of the country near the place we now lay j and furely a pro- fpe(5l more dreary and uncomfortable can fcarcely be conceived, tlian that which prefented itfelf to our view to the North Weft. The land, indeed, clofc by the fea-fide, is tolerabl) level, affords a few pines, which, together with flirubs and underwoods, inter- mixed with long grafs, make the landfcape not altogether difagree- able ; but the adjacent mountains, whofe rugged tops far outreach the clouds, abfolutely beggar all defcription : covered with eternal fnow, except where the fierce North wind blow? ' . from their craggy fummits, they entirely chill the blood of the beholder, and their prodigious extent and ftupendous precipices, render them equally inacceflible to man or beaft. I had forgot, that in my laft I pro- mifed to attempt no more defcriptions of the country at prefent, but the profpeCl juft mentioned had fomething in it fo awfully dreadful, that I could not avoid faying a few words refpeding it, and I know thou wilt readily forgive any little inadvertencies of this fort, as my only wifli is, to amufe and entertain — I wifli I could add, and inftrud thee. Thou mayeft cxpe^^ a continuation very foon. Adieu. Thine, &c,
\V. B.
Cook's River, J jothAuguih J
1786.
Auo-ufl,
L !• T T K R
I:
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66
I7S6.
A \' O Y A G E T () T 11 E
LETTER XVII.
I OBSERVED in my laft, tliat \vc held oiirfclves in rcacliiicfs to fail with the lii it iair wind ; and at five o'clock in the morn- i:ia;ot'thc loth of Augull, wc weighed and made fail with mode- r.i:c breezes and line vvcathei-. At eight o'clock, finding the tide let us Ihongly in for the land, and very near a long ridge of fand to the Southward, we let go an anchor in ten fathom water, over artony bottom ; an illandto the Soutluvard, at litt'ie more than a mile's dillance. At five in the afternoon, we weighed and made lliil, but the breeze not enabling us to ilem the tide, at nine we were obliged to come to an anchor in twelve fathom water, over a rocky bottom ; the North- Weft end of the fmall ifland to the Southward, bearing Weil North Weft ; diftance off" fliore to the Northward five miles ; the weather moderate and fine.
At five in the morning of the nth, we weighed anchor, and kept Handing down the river. At eight o'clock we perceived two Rulfian boats, with eighteen men in each, fteering f ^♦- the ifland to the Southward. They, no doubt, were the fame people we Jaw in coming up the river. It leems to be their plan to fub- jugate tlic poov Indians, and afterwards to exact what fkins they can, by way of tribute ; but the people are difperfed in fo many ditfcrent parts, that this fcheme can furely never anfvver their pur- pole. At eleven o'clock we came to in nineteen fathom water. Anchor Point bearing Soutli by lilaft, diltance from Ihore four miles. Ourobfervation at noon gave Oo dcg. 9 nun. North lati- tude.
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
(^7
tudc. Having but light breezes, we were obliged to wait for the* 17S6. tide in (landing down the liver. "^"^'^^
At noon on the 12th, Cape Bede bore Eafl South Eafl, and Coal Harbour Eall by South. At two o'clock we came to in thirty-nine fathom water, the Barren Illands bearing South Souili Ealt; the Burning Mountai'i Well North Well; Mount St. Augulline South Well ; and Coal Harbour Eafl. Our obfervation gave 59 deg. 28 min. North latitude, and 151 dcg. Well longitude. The weather was moderate and line, and we had great reafon to hope that the next tide, with a tolerable breeze, would carry us clear of the river.
In regard to the extent of this river, I cannot fpeak with any degree of certainty; but we know that it reaches confulerably far- ther to the Northward than where we lay at anchor. W^ith refpeft to its breadth, it is fcldom more than twenty miles over.
The inhabitants feem not to have fixed on any particular fpot for their refidence, but are fcattered about here and there, as beft fuits their convenience or inclination. 'Tis mofl probable they are divided into clans or tribes, as in every large canoe we law, there was at lead one perfon of fuperior authority to the rell, wlio not only direftcd their traffic, but kept them in a projier degree of lubordhiation. In their manners they feem harmlefs and inoftcn- five ; but this might probably be occafioned by the different treat- ment they met with from us, to what the RuHians had ufcd them to. The weapons we faw are bows and arrows, and fpears ; thelc are very ufeful in hunting, as well as fighting; the ficih ot the various beafls they kill ferving them for food, as their ikin.s do for
cloath^
V 1
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u
1786.
A VOYAGE TO THE
cloathing. One would reafonably fuppofe, that tlie ikins of large bcails, as bears, wolves, &c. would be held in the greatcil clHma- tion as cloaths by thcfe people : thii, however, is net the cafe, the greater part vvearint;i; cloaks made of marniot-ikins, very neatly Icvved together, one cloak containing perhaps more than one hun- dred ik'nis : it is moll hkely that their women's time is principally talccn up in employments like thcfe. Befides the fea-ottcr, here arc bears, wolves, foxes, racoons, marmots, or field mice, mufqualli, ermine, &c. 6:c. but the marmot and fox feem to be in the greateft plenty. The trade thefe people are fondeft of for their Ikins, is toes, and light blue beads, fcarcely any other fort (though we had a very great variety) being taken the leaft notice of.
In their perfons, thefe people are of a middle fize, and well pro- portioned ; their features appear regular, but their faces are fo bedaubed with dirt and filth, that it is impoflible to fay what fort of complexion they have. That perfon feems to be reckoned the greateft beau amongft them, whofe face is one entire piece of fmut and greafe, and his hair well daubed witii the fame compofition. Their nofe and ears are ornamented with beads, or teeth, if they cannot procure any thing elfe : they have likewife a long flit cut in the under lip, parallel with the mouth, which is ornamented much in the fame manner vvith the nofe and ears j but this I could ob- ferve was always in propoftion to the pcrfon's wealth. We faw ©nly one woman, and the people with her behaved with great civility, and attended her with great refped : her face, contrary to the general cuftom, was tolerably clean, and her complexion and features far from difagreeable : indeed 1 have often kcw much worfe-looking women in England. Their fmall canoes are fo ccn- ftru6led, as to hold but one, or at moft two perfons ; and both thefe and the large ones are covered with ikins. It poflibly may 1 be
4
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
be in ray power, before the conclufion of our Voyage, to give thee a farther account of thefe people ; if fo, thou mayelt depend on it : in the mean time, let rae proceed with our tranfactions.
I have obferved, that the afternoon of the 1 2th was fine, and the weather continuing favourable, we weighed anchor at four o'clock in the morning of the i3thof Augurt, having a fine leadhig breeze and clear weather. We flood down the liver to the Eafl North Eaft, leaving the Barren Iflands to the Southward.
Before noon we were clear of Cook's River, and our deftinatlon being for Prince William's Sound, we ftood to the North Eaft, at about two leagues diftance from the fliore. At noon, the Norther- moft part of the Continent bore North Eaft by North and Sugar Loaf Illand (one of the Barren Iflands) South Weft. Towards the evening our breeze died away, and during the night, we had light baffling winds.
During the former part of the 14th, we kept ftanding along the fliore, latitude at noon 59 deg. 6 mln. North. In the afternoon, the weather grew cloudy and hazy. At four o'clock we tacked, and ftood to the Noith Weft, but being uncertain how we were fitu- ated in regard to the pafiage into Prince William's Sound, at eight we again tacked, and ftood off^ fliore till twelve o'clock.
On the 1 5th v/e had light airs, with hazy weather. We had loft fight of the land, but at two o'clock wc again faw it, bearing from North North Weft to Weft North Weft. On founding we found bottom with 103 fatliom line, mud and clay.
Light
69
1785.
Autruft.
1
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A \' O Y A G E T O T II E
Li:',ht ;uis and liazy on the i6th. We ftill kept llanding along the fhorc, at about two leagues dillance ; the land bearing fioni Well Souili Well: to North, Oji the 17th, we ftill had ligiit baf- flmg \\jnds, and cloudy weather. Having had no meridian alti- tuile (ince tlio 14th, we could not be exactly certain as to our iituation, but concluded the land which we now law to the North I'iall to be -Montague Illand. It being nearly calm, and our Ibun- <iings greatly leliened, we came to anchor at three o'clock, in forty- three tathom water, over a fandy bottom ; dillance from fhore about three miles. I Ihould Oi'ferve, that for fome days pad our foundings had varied from one hundred and twenty to twenty- eight fathom water, generally over a muddy bottom. An illand to tlie Northward bore from North Eall by ILait to North North EalK Another point of land due North, at fix miles diilance. Whilll we lay at anchor, many of our people got out their tiihing-lines, think- ing we lay on a cod-bank; they caught fome fculpms, and a few halibut, but were difappointed in their expetSlations of catching cod.
i |
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The weather continued thick and foggy, but at fix o'clock in tlic afternoon of the i8th, a breeze fpringing up from the South Well by Wed, we weighed anchor, and Hood in for the Ihore. At ten o'clock, we founded with forty-five fathom line, over a bottom of find mixed with ihells ; at twelve, we had no bottom with eighty fathom line.
h
The early part of the morning of the 19th was fo foggy, that vvc loft fight of land, but at eight o'clock we fiw land bearing Nortli Eall: by North. W^e kept plying to windward, in order to make, it polTible, the South Wed paliiige into Prince W^illiam's Sound, vvhich, at four in tiic aftei-noon, bore North Ead by North ; the ^ Eallei-moil
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Eaftcrmoll point of land in fight Eaft by Xorth ; Foot Kland, from North by Eall, to Well: North Well ; Leg Illaiul, ^Vefl, to Nortli Well by North ; the Continent South Weft. The wind blew frefli from the North Kai\, and a heavy fwcll letting to the Well- ward, we gained little or nothing. At eight o'clock in the even- ing, the South Well Point of Montague Illand bore Fall Nortli Fall, at four miles dillance. The wind being variable during the night, we tacked occafionally. At ten o'clock vvc had foundings in forty fathom water, over a fandy bottom.
At eight in the morning of the 20th, the land in fight bore from North North Eall to North half Well ; we had no bottom with a line of fifty fathom. Still we kept plying to windward, but with no better fucceb than on the preceding days, owing to frelh North Eaflerly winds, and a current fctting to the Wellward.
The former part of the 21 ft was hazy, with rain. At four in the afternoon, we had great hopes of making a bay near the wiihed- for entrance, being in feventeen fathom water, and within a mile and half of the land -, but we found a ftrong current fct us bodily to leeward in addition to the fwell from the Eaftward. In the evening, and during the night, we had ftrong North Eallerly breezes, with much rain ; and the former part of the 2 2d was thick and rainy, but the wind more moderate. We \\v.d a toler.iblc obfervation at noon, which gave 59 deg. 15 niin. Ncith latitude, being the only one we could get for ten days pall.
During the afternoon, and the whole of the 23d, the weather was thick and hazy, witli frelh variable breezes, th.ough chicHy from the North F.aft, and no land in liglit.
! ^ 1
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w
A VOYAGE TO THE
At tour o'clock in the mornliig of the 24tli, the wind veered to the South Eall, on which we Hood right in for the land, which we faw at three in the afternoon, bearing from North by Eallto Weft by North, at ten miles diilancc. We had foundings in Teventy fathom water, over a muddy bottom. At eiglit in the evening, the 'vind changed to the North Eaft again, and we ftood off the land during the night, it being very uncertain how the currents let. 1 lliall refume the fubjecl very Ihortly. Thine, &c.
nuMoVTAOrnlFl, \NT>, ?
LETTER XVIII.
DU RING the 25th and 26th of /uguft, we had light winds, and hazy weather. At feven in the evening of the 26th, the wind Ihifted to the Southward, and we were in g.eat hopes of get- ting in with the land next day. Towards ten o'clock it came on to blow very frefli, fo that we hove to till three In the morning of the 27th, when we made fail, and ftood to the Northward. At noon we faw the land, bearing due North. Our obfervation gave 59 ^\qZ- North latitude, being the only good one wc had been able to make for the paft fortnight. Longitude 145 deg. 44 min. Weft Fmc^mg ourfelves much too far tc thcEaftward, to have any liopes of gcttmg mto Prince William's Sound by the South Weft palfage. our Captams determined to try for the entrance by Cape Hinchin-' brookc, having a favourable breeze and moderate weather.
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74
1 786.
A \' O V A G E T O T II E
Having been at fc:\ a niop.lh, wlicn we expected only a ci'uize of two or three clays, thou niayeil: hiiaginev.e were greatly elated with theprolpecl: of fpcedily coming to anchor, and beginning to traffic ; but all our expeclatiens on this head foon \ aniihed, for on lland- iu'j; in for the lliore till four o'clock, and at lefs than three niilcs dirtance, \vc could nut fee any ap})earance of the found mentioned .by Captain Cook. The coa'd, indeed, formed a kind of bay, but atlbrded no place, in this lltuation, where a vefiid could anchoi\ with anv dcirree of lafetv. W'e founded with a line of i 10 fatiiom, but found no bottom, neither was the colour of the water in the leall changed ; lb that there is reaibn to expecl: deep water cpute clofe to the lliore.
Being difappointed in our exjie'.^.ations of falling In with Ci'ofs Sju: ;. 't was judged a needlels wade oi time 10 10. 4 for it in any other luuation, efpee-ially as Captain Cook never canie to anchor there, but only i'aw it at a confulerable diltance ; and we knew by experience, how deceitful the appearrnices of land are on this ci\a(f, occafioned by a conllant haze, which jjcipetually changes its pofi- tion, and renders it next to impolliblc to alcertain land at a dif- ilance, with any degree of certainty.
The Bi'v of IlLuhh was the next eligible harbour for us to make j this lay about ihiity miles to the Souihwartl and llalhvard, A tavourable breeze fjiringing up towai ds the evening, we lluod under .in ealy iail tlmiiig the i/ight, v>ith evciy profjtect of making this ■h,u-bour loon ; but in the nu)niing of tiie loih, a very Jicavy gale i)l wind came on from the Sou award, which continuei.1 till even- iJig, whe]i we had a Hat calm for a few houis.
At
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
At tv.'o o'clock in the morning of th.e iitli, tlic gale came on heavier than before, with much rain, and continued without inter- niillioii till the 13th, at noon, when the weather grew moderate, and tolerably clear. During the gale, we had wore occafionally, to prevent our getting on a lec-ihore, and when it iubfided, we found ourielvcs more than ten leagues from Cape Edgecombe, (the ne.ir.-ll } :^int of land to the Bay of lilands) our obfervation at noon givin,' 56 deg. 50 min. North latitude. However, it was determined to make this harbour if polTible, oiu" fails and rigging being pretty much damaged during the llorm.
Accordingly, wc fteei^ed Eafl: North Eaft, with a moderate breeze from the Southward; and at iix o'clock in the n\orning of tlvj .14th, vvc faw land, bearing from Eafl by North to North NVeH:, at fourteen miles dilVancc. At noon, C'ape Eilgecombe bore Soutli 60 deg. Eail, at ten miles dirtance. Our obfervation gave ^; dog, 6 min. North latitude. We kept (leering to the WeiUvard, in cxpeclation of finding the Day of Illands till five in the aftcin^.H)n, butcoidd not fall in with any fuch place to the Wcilward of the Cape. That part of the coalf which wc examined form:; a kii^d of fhallow bav, but alTords not the leafi fhelter for anv veil" 1 to lav at anchor, neither could wc perceive the IcalT: fign of iiihabitiUUs, We had indeed heard, tliat the Spaniartls ancliored very ^^mx^: thii place, in 1775, but this account we were afi'aid was r.ot ..MMutcIy to be depended on. At fix o'clock we hauled o'.-r wIikI to t'-.c Sou luvanl, iiUcndin:;- to cwimine tiic South Eaif lid.: cf ii.e C;i-pe; but at niidnight a \'cry heavy gale of wind fpaam"; up ir.rw tlie Scnith I'aill, which continued during the wlnMc 01 t>.e Jjvli, wiih hea'.y and continued I'aln ; tliis made us glad to 1 ec[i Oii i>.e land as nuieh as j'.olllhle, (o that in tlu forenoon of tlie K -Ii, ve v.cre more than twentv kw-ucs to the Southward of Cape Ed";e-
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70
Si-'ptembcr.
A V O Y A G E T O T II E
combe. The wind grew more moderate, but variable, and fre- quently fqually, with rain. The weather was thick, and fo hazy, that we could' not fee a mile a-head. 1 he lealbn flipping away very fail, all hopes of making the Bay of lilands were given up, and it was determined to lleer for King George's Sound, keeping in, hov.-evcr, with the coall, tliat no opportunity of accidentally meeting v^ith a harbour might be loft.
The weather on the 17th grew moderate, and a fine Wefterly breeze came on early in the morning : our Lilitude at noon was 5:; (leg. 1, min. North; and our longitude 136 dcg. 14 min. \\ci\. We ilill had a fine North Wefterly breeze, and at one o'clock on the iSth, being then lleering due Eatl, we faw land ri"-ht a-head, on which we flood dirc6lly for it. Our latitude at noon was 53 deg. 46 min. North, and our longitude 134 de"-. 22 min. Weft. At fix o'clock we were well in with the land ; but finding no harbour, nor the leaft fign of any inhabi- tants, \.o bore up, and ftood to the Southward. The land we faw was high, and bore North 65 deg. Eaft, at four miles diftance. The evening was fine, clear, and ferene. We faw a fpecies of bird quite different from any we had hitherto [ccn : his make was long and flender, yet his flight was very heavy. The tips of his wings and tail were white, and his wings were finely variegated. He was nearly the fize of a finall gull. We likewile faw wild-geefe of various fpecies, in great numbers.
The frefli Northerly breeze continued during the 1 9th ; the land in light at fix in the morning bore from North Weft to North Eaft; diftance oft" fhore about nine leagues. Our obfervation at noon gave 51 deg. j6 min. North; and our longitude 133 deg.
Weft.
1 The
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
71
The weather during the 20th and 21 ft was moderate, and we '^'i'^^\ kept ftanding to the Eaftward ; the coaft in fight at eight or nine leagues diftance. On the 21ft, at noon, being in 50 deg. 40 min. Noi th hititude, we faw an ifland, bearing North 53 deg. Eaft. In the afternoon we had a large lliark along-fide. I mention this as it is a fifli rarely feen in fuch Northerly latitudes. At fix o'clock the liland, or r3t'icr Iflands we had ^^tw at noon, bore from North 22 deg. Eaft to North 43 deg. Eaft, at three leagues diftance.
During the 2 2d we ftood to the Eaftward, for King George's Sound, with a frefli breeze from the North Weft. At one o'clock Woody Point bore North Weft by Weft, at two miles diftance. At fome diftance to the Weftward of the Point is a rock, which obtained the name of Split-Rock, and appears joined by a low reef to the coaft. The Eaftermoft point of land bore North North Eaft, and from that to Woody Point, the coaft forms a kind of bay, covered with pines, fome of which have a very beautiful appearance, the land next the fea being pretty low, and tolerably level. The day being thick and hazy, we were not able to get any obfcrvation to determine our latitude, and it being impoHlblc for us to make the found by day-light. Captain Dixon judged it moft prudent to ftand oft' the fliore during the night, as it abounds with rocks and breakers. Captain Portlock, however, hoifted out his boat, and fcnt his Third Mate round the Eaftermoft point of land, to look for an anchoring birth, but he not fucceed-. ing, we liauled to the South Wert, and ftood off" fliore till the morning of the 23d. At fun-fet, the neareft point of land was about fix miles diftant. We founded in forty-five fathom water, over a hard rocky bottom.
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This harbour being our dernier refourcc for this fcafon, thou maycft imagine we are extremely anxious to make it : what fuc-
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70 A V O Y A G E T O T II E
1,-86. ccfs \vc may nvjct with, will be the fubiccl of my next. Adlcii. _^ J, lunc c:xv.
On Kim- CiF3Rf;F.'s Sound,
1
\ T r I >
LETTER XIX.
A']' the conclufion of my lad, \vc were flattered with hopes of fpcctlily making our long wilhcd for port : thefe hopes, I am fmcercly forry to tell thee, arc now all over, for this year at lead : however, anticipation apart— let me proceed to give thee a regular account of our ill fortuiie.
I obfcrved before, that we were within fix miles of the land in the evening of the 2 2d, and that we hauled to tlic Southward during the night. At fix in the morning of the 23d, we made lail, and Hood nearly North Eall, with a frcili breeze from the North Weil. At eight o'clock Sj)lit-Rock bore North 40 ckg. Wefi:, at fix leagues dillai.ce. Oiiv obfervation at noon gave 49 deg. 50 niin. North latitude, and our longitude was 127 deg. 52 nun. Wclr ; fo that wc were nciu- twenty miUs to the North- ward, and fifty mile:; to the VVcilward of oiu- harbour. The lilufF Head to the Wellward bore North 69 deg. W'c.^, and the Kaller- moll land South 60 (kg. llair, at lix miles dilbmcc. During the afternoon, the brcc;:c grew lighter, and towards five o'clock i't was nearly calm, fj t!i;it it v.as impofiible to make the found, on
which
n
79
178').
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. wliich wc liaulcd our wind to the Southward. Ciiv obicrvation
111 111 1-1 • Scpteinlcr.
:K noon had, liowevcr, enabled us to dctcrmnie the entrance n-.to , ^ j
the harbour to a certainty. At fix o'clock, the point of \hc iound bore North 60 dcg. Ealt ; diftancc fixtecn or fevcntcen niiks. At eif^ht we Ibunded with a Une of fifty-lcvcn fathon.i, over a muddy bottom. During the night, we had Ught, variable winds, and ibmetimes fqually, with rain.
In the morning of the 24th, wc again rtood for the land, ftcer- H\g North Eall by Eail, with a nioderate breeze from South Eait by Eall, but we foon had light, baffling, variable wind?, and fic- ([uently calm ; fo that we could not pofiibly make the harbovu*. Oar obfcrsation at noon gave 49 deg. 28 min. North latitude. Ihc [X)\nt of land at the entrance of the found bore North Eaft, at four leatrues dillance, and Point Breakers Eaft 6 deer. South ; diilan.cc iix miles. At two o'clock we founded, with a line of 65 fathom, over a rocky bottom. At four o'clock the harbour bore North 55 deg. Eaft ; diftance four leagues ; and at fix, the extremes of the land bore from Eaft 9 deg. South to North, 25 deg. Weft. Nootka Point, North Eaft by North ; diftance ten miles. We had ifoundings with a line of fifty-five fathoms, over a muddy bottom.
I 1
During the forenoon of the 25th, *ve had light variable airs, with frequent lliowers of laln. At noon, though v/e were not more than ten miles diftaiit from the cntranrr; into the found, yet frequent calms, with light balHing winds in every direction, toge- tlier with a heavy rolling fwell fetting in right on the hmd, icn- dered it impracticable for us to ftand in for the Ihoi-e ; lb that at live o'clock wc wore, and ftood to the Southward. At Wx o'clock the extremes of the land bore from Eaft by South to Well North Weft, diftant about eight miles. In the cvcnir.g, the wlvA blew
a fiVd'i
'1 ,
^i
?
iff
8o AVOYAGETOTHE
17S6. frcdi at South Eall •, and by ten at night, increafed to a violent
SoptcmVer. ^^^^^^ attended with vc'-y heavy rain
About three in the morning of the 26th, a moft tempeftuous. ftorniof thunder and lightning came on, the rain ftill continuing. The claps oi" thunder were allonilhingly loud, and the lightning fo very fierce, that it blinded the people on deck for a conliderable time, and every tlalh left a llrong fulphurous ftench behind.
I was upon deck during the greateft part of the ftorm -, and I muft own to thee, that the awful and tremendous appearance of the elements (if I may be allowed the expreflion) affc£led me greatly. How often have I thought, that nothing in nature could equal the thunder ftorm fo beautifully defcribed by Thomfon, in his Seafons ; but here, every awful fituation in Thomfon's p>i6ture was brought on the canvafs in the moft confpicuous point of view, and the majefty of the whole ftill heightened by the roaring of the wind, the raging of the fea, and a more than common darknefs, which, overfpread the furrounding atmofphere.
Towards fix in the morning the ftorm abated, and we again had light baffling winds, and a very heavy crofs fea, which prevented us from ftanding in for the fliore, efpecially as the morning w^as thick and hazy. At ten o'clock we faw the land, bearing from North Weft to Eaft, about nine miles diftant ; but frequent calms, and a heavy fwell fetting right in ihore, made us glad to keep from the land as much as pofiible, and more efpecially, as from the point of the harbour, and rxt leaft two miles from Ihore, there runs a reef of breakers, for two miles to the Northward. During the afternoon and night, we had light variable winds, with rain.
At
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
8i
At four in the morning of the 27th, a frefh breeze fpiingingup 1786. from South South Weft, we made liill, and ftood for the harbour j ^^^J^J^- but by ten o'clock the breeze died away, and we had baffling winds, with a heavy fwell from the SoLithward, which fet us diredly 011 the breakers juft mentioned ; fo that our fituation, for Ibme time, was rather alarming. However, foon after eleven o'clock, We were pretty clear of the danger. The King George was to tlie South- ward of us, fo that Captain Portlock was under no great degree of aj^prehenfion on his own account. At noon, the Well: point of the harbour bore North 60 deg. Eaft ; and the extremes of the land, from Weft North Weft to Eaft by South. The afternoon and evening were fqually, with heavy ftorms of hail. At fix o'clock, the entrance into Nootka Sound bore North, 155 deg. Eaft ; twelve miles dlftant. During the night, we had light variable airs.
At half paft five in the morning of the 28th, we again bore up for the found, but unfortunately had the fame light airs, and heavy fwell to encounter, as on the preceding day ; fo that finding it im- poflible to make the harbour, at eleven o'clock we haukd to the Southward. At noon, the point of the harbour bore North, 65 deg. Eaft, feven miles diftant. The wind, during the afternoon, being ftill light and variable, with a heavy fwell, we kept ftanding to the Southward. At {even o'clock, Captain Portlock fpoke as, and informed us, that he intended ta quit the coaft, and ftand immediately for Sandwich Illands, dire<5ting us at the fame time to fteer South South Weft, ar South by Weft, if the Wind per- mitted. The harbour at that time bore Eaft North Eaft, ftven leagues diftant. Durng the night we had light variable winds, with frequent Ihowers of hail and rain ; but at five in the morning of the 29th, a frelh breeze fprung up from the Weftward, which
L enabled
1,h
^i' '
■N
■■*i
i7Sb. Sr]itL'n>bcr.
A VOYAGE TO THE
enabled us to fiiapc our courfc agreeably to Captain Portlock's tlire61ion, thoui^h I mull ov. . wc left the coaft relu6lantly, and the more ib, as the prclent wind was what we wanted to carry us into the found. Indeed it Ihould be remembered, that the wind for fome days paft had been as favourable as we could wilh, when Z'X a dldancc from the Ihorc, but always grew light and variable, r.s we drew ncai" the land ; and there is every rcafon to imagine this would have been the cafe at prcfent : fo that on the whole, we probably may havecaufe to rejoice at this unexpected determination. At noon, the harbour bore North 40 deg. Eaft, diftant about twelve leagues; our latitude was 49 deg. 15 min. North ; and the longitude 127 deg. 35 min. Weft, Before night we had entirely Joft fight of the coaft. Thus ended all our hopes of making King George's Sound this feafon.
Ifwetakea letrofpecl view of occurrences fince our leaving Cook's River, wc fcem to have been peculiarly unfuccefsful in all our attempts to gain a fecond harbour on this inhofpitable coaft. Twice indeed, (viz. at Crofs Sound, and the Bay of Iflands) our mifcarriagc was owing, in a great meafure, to mifmformation ; and that wc did not make either Prince William's, or Nootka .Sound, may juftly be attributed to unfavourable winds, and bad weather, tilings which muft ever baffle the ftrongeft efforts of luiman wiPlom ■ and, though we were unacquainted with Captain Portlock's motives for leaving the coaft, yet he no doubt was con- vinced, that every attempt had been made that prudence could fuggeft, confiftcnt with the fafety of the velTels, or the lives of the people.
Thus ends our fuft trading campaign, and tliough not aifo/ute/y unfuccefsful, yet it affords a moft ufefulleffon for many fituatlons
m
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 83
in life, and would furnifh me with an ample field for haranguing 1786. on the uncertainty and unftability of all worldly expeftations, &c. ^^^^^lili &c. but thou wilt '"ufpeft me of an attempt to palm a pack of rufty thread-bare moral fentences on thee i fo that I fhall conclude at once. Thine ever.
At Sea, 1 adOaober. J
LETTER XX.
HAVING pretty well reconciled ourfelves to the unavoidable difappointments we met with on the American Coaft, our thoughts, like the Ifraelites of old, were fixed on the llefh-pots of Egypt J or, to drop the metaphor, we comforted ourfelves with the hope of many a delicious regale among the hogs, yams, and other good chear of Sandwich Iflands,
Ml
Perhaps from what I faid in my laft, refpeiSling our bad fuccefs,
thou wilt conclude we left the coaft without any thing worth
notice. To fet thee right in that particular, I fhall juft obferve^
that we colleded in Cook's River near fixty prime otter- (kins -,
about the fame quantity of an inferior kind; about twenty fine
marmot cloaks, together with racoons, foxes, &c. &c. fufficient to
fill three puncheons ; fo that our purchafes, if not very great, were
far from dcfpic able. Captain Portlock's fuccefs was, I believe,,
nearly fimilar to our's.
We
r t I.
hi
^: n
il^'!
H
17S6.
October,
A VOYAGE TO THE
We left King George's Sound, as I have already obfei-ved, on the 29th of September, with a fine Wefterly breeze ; but it fliifted to the Ealhvard on the 30th, with moderate weather.
On the 3 1 ft, the wind again blew from the Weft ward, the weather was clear and fine. On the 4th of Oaober, we had clofe foggy v\ eather, with frequent fqualls. On the 7th, at noon, our latitude w-s 43 deg. 8 min. and our longitude 131 deg. 59 min. Weft: wc had variable winds, the weather ftill foggy. During the night the wind blew a ftrong gale from the Wcftward j but towards the morning of the 8th, it grew moderate.
About eight o'clock in the evening of the i ith, there was a kind of fiery meteor fccn playmg about the fliip. As failors havea tole- rable fhare of fupcrftition, an appeara.ice of this kind is much dreaded by them, and is univerfally known by the appellation of Davy Jones. Davy's power is very great, but he is ftippofed to prefide more immediately over the winds and waves, though he Icldomorcver appears for any good purpofe •, and this I prefume makes the honeft tars afraid of his Worlhip.
'Tis fomcwhat ftrange, that a fet of men, who defpifc rrj/ dan- gers, which migiit appall the J/outr/l heart, fhould be terrified with ideal fears of their own creating, and thofe railed by an objc-Tt fit only foi a bug-bear to children.
During the night we had a ftrong gale of wind from the South- ward, with licavy rain. A circumftance of this fort happening fo foon after the appearance of Davy Jones, ferves gieatly to ftrcngthen the fuperllitious opinion which failors already entertain of him.
Ill
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
85
In the morning of the 12th, the weather moderated ; and at ten 1786. o'clock the wind lliifted to the Northward, blowing a fine frefli breeze. ^'^^°'"^'^'
At noon on the 13th, our latitude was 37 deg. 2 min. North ; and our longitude, being the mean of feveral fcts of lunar obfer- vations, 134 dcg. 47 min. Weft. In this fituation we perceived a current fetting pretty ftrong to the Eaftwrrd.
On the 14th, we caught three large fliarks, which were very acceptable, on account of the oil they afforded us, and which we could ufe, not only for the binnacle, but to pay our marts, rig- ging, 6cc. our oil running fliort. From the 14th to the 24th, nothing occurred worth notice. During this time we had variable winds, and pretty moderate weather.
On the 25th, our latitude was 33 deg. North ; and the longitude 143 deg. 36 min. Weft. We had a moderate breeze from South South Eaft, with frequent Ihowers of rain. This afternoon we had a fpccies of birds al)out the Ihip, which I take to be the ftri- ated fand-plpcr of Pennant, two of which were fo tame, that our people had nearly caugiit tlicm.
From this to the 31 ft, we had little variety. The weather in general was tolerably tine, thoug)\ fomctimes fqually, with rain. Our obfervation at noon gave 29 dcg. 5 min. North latitude; and 148 dfg. Weft longitude.
On the ift of November, wc looked out for St. Maria Le Gorta, which is laid down in Cook's Chart, m 27 deg. 50 min. North lati- tude ; and 149 (leg. Weft longitude ; and the fame afternoon, failed diicaiy over it. indeed we fcarcely exi)ected to meet witli any fuch |)lace, as it is copied by Mr. Roberts into the above Chait, from the J fame
86
A VOYAGE TO THE
1786. fame authority which we had aheady found to be erroneous, November, ^.^fpe^c^j^g L^^ Majos, and Roco Partida.
On the 5th of November, at noon, we were in 24 deg. 32 min. North latitude ; and the wind blowing from the Eaftward for fome days pafl-, gave us fome hopes of a ileady trade j but in this we were difappointed, for in the afternoon tiie wind hauled to the Southward, and we liad a very material alteration in the weather, which was continually fqually, with rain. This time of the year feems to be the ftormy feafon near the Sandwich Iflands ; for though wc had often ftrong gales of wind, yet they were never fteady or lafting, but came on us fuddenly, attended v/ith impe- tuous torrents of ram.
The weather on tlie 8th and 9th, was extremely fultry, with lightning almoft in every dire6lion, particularly in the evening of the 9th. About four o'clock in the morning of the loth, we had a violent guil of wind, which lafted about half an hour, attended with exceeding heavy rain, which greatly contributed to render the atmof])hcrc cool and pleafant.
The fcarcity of birds for many days part, was rather remarkable ; asKJ more particiarly fo, as the Tropic birds are pecuhar to the latitude we were in : indeed on the 9th, we faw one folitary man of war bird, and the fame day caught two dolphins, with hook and line, which were the only filh v.e liad been able to lay hold of lincc our having the Continent. Our latitude at noon was 22 deg. 54 min. North ; and the longitude 154 C.cg. 14 niin Weft.
In the forenoon of the nth, the wind veered to the Northward,
;jnd tlie wcatlicr grew moderate and fine.
On
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA
8:
On the 1 2tli, we caught a fliark, with a fowl, and part of a turtle 7786. in his belly : this plainly indicated that we were not far from ^°'"-"^°''"- land; and indeed we knew that the Iflandof Atoui was under our lee* our obfcrvation at noon giving 21 deg. 30 min. North lati- tude ; and the mean of feveral fets of lunar obfervations, 152 deg. 4 min. Well longitude. We had a fine North Eaftcrly breeze, with clear weather.
Towards the evening, feveral flocks of fand-pipers were flying about the fliip. For fome time part: we had fleered well to the Southward, having been greatly retarded by Southerly winds ; but this evening Captain Portlock fpoke us, and directed us to fleer South South Weft, as it appeared by our obfervations, that we were well to windward of all the iflands.
On the 13th, at noon, our latitude was 20 deg. 36 min. North ; and finding ourfelves well to windward of Owhyhec, the ifland we firfl intended to touch at, we fleered more to the Wcflward, with a moderate Eafterly breeze, and fine weather.
On the 14th, at noon, we were in 20 deg. 6 min. North latitude -, and the mean of feveral lunar obfervations giving 152 deg. 39 min. Weft longitude : we fteered Weft by South. Wc had various fpecies of birds flying about us, as fand-larks, man of war birds, 6cc. The dolphin were pretty numerous, and we caught feveral fliarks, one of which had a large turtle entire in his belly. Oui' latitude on the 15th was 20 deg, 7 min. North. For fome days paft we had flirpe(51ed a ftrong current to let to the Northward, between Owhyhec and Mowee ; and this circumftance put ihe matter beyond a doubt, as our courfe from the 14th, at noon, to the 15th, gave a number of miles to the Southward. About five m the afternoon, wc law high land above the clouds, bearing South 2 South
III
i^ 111 i ■ I
I '
:i:t'
,
' ( i 111? 1
88
1786, Novembi-''.
A VOYAGE TO THE
South Weft, ten or twelve leagues diftant, which we immediately knew to '>e Monakaah, a high mountain on Owhyhee. During the night, we flood to the Weft North Weft, under an caly liul j and at kven in the morning of the i6th, Monakaah bore South 25 deg. Weft. A confiderable fpace on its fummit was covered with fnovv } and I haveeveiy reafon to think, that this mountain is never totally free.
During the forenoon, we ftecred nearly Weft by South, about three miles diftant from fliore, with a fine Eafterly breeze ; but the fea lunning pretty high, no canoes ventured off to us. At two o'clock we faw Mowee, bearing North 70 deg. W^eft, about fevcn leagues diftant. The day being now very clear, we had an uninterrupted view of Monakaah, the higheft land in Owhyhee. This mountain, tliough undoubtedly very lofty, has nothing rtupendous in its appearance, the afcent to it on all fides appearing gradual and eafy.
That part of the ifland which we now coafted along, is very beautiful. The land appears to be laid out in diftinft plantations, every one of which feemed in a high ftate of cultivation. The iiigher grounds are covered with trees, which yield a never-f?iling vcrtiure ; and in three or four places, there are abrupt breaks in the land. Thefe chufms being well fupplied with plentiful ftreams of fine water, render the landfcape truly delightful.
As Karakakooa Bay had been found, on feveral accounts, an improper place to anchor in, it was determhied to examine another bay, which l:iy round the South Weft. This bay had been looked into during Captain Cook's flay here, and we expected it would afford a goal Iv.irbour ; but about four in the afternoon the breeze died away, and Ceverul canoes coming from fhore, we hove to, in
order
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Older to trade with the natives, who brought hogs, plantahis, bread-fruit, potatoes, &c. which were a mofl. feafonable fupply in our prefcnt fituaticn, many of our people being affefted with the fcurvy : indeed, when we confider how much time had elapfcd fmce our leaving thcfc illands laft, and how fmall a quantity of frefli provifions we had been able to procure during that time, it is almoft a wonder that we fhould enjoy fo good a ftate of health as we did j but this, under Providence, was owing, in fome mea- fure, to a free ufe of various antifceptics which we had in great plenty on board. In the evening, and during the night, we had a dead calm, with hot fultry weather, attended with a good deal of lightning.
In the morning of the 17th, a light breeze fprung up at South South Weft, and we ftood for the bay before-mentioned. How- ever, being willing to purchafe as many neceliaries as pofliblc, Captain Portlock fcnt his Firft Mate (Mr. Maclcod) in the whale boat, to examine the bay ; mean while, the fliips lay to, in order to trade with the natives. At five in the afternoon, Mr. Macleod returned, and reported, that there was no fafe anchorage in the bay ; and that not onlv from a bad bottom, but as the harbour was entirely expofed to South-Wefterly winds. This being the cafe, our intention of anchoring at Owhyhec was laid afide : liowever, it was <lctermined to keep near this part of the ifland fome time, if the wind would permit, as it was known to afford hogs in abundance.
During the 18th we lay to, and plied occafionally, as fuitctl our convenicncy, for trade. The people weie bufily employed in kil- ling and falting hogs for fea-ftore.
89
1786.
November.
M
This
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90
A VOYAGE TO THE
1-S6. This part of the Iflancl affords but few cocoa-nuts, or plantains ;
Kcn.a.bcr. ^.^g^^.^^^jgg j,^ the greatcil: plenty are bread-fruit, and fweet pota- toes.
Among the various ciiriofities lirought by the natives to fe'I, were a kind of balkets, about eirrhteen inclics high, and five or fix inches in diameter, of a circular foim, and exxeeding neatly made. The wicker work of w liich tliey were made was frequently varie- gated witli twigs of a red colour, and had a pretty cffe^f. Thcfc balkets nerc (juite new to us, having leen nothing of this fort when at the illaiids before.
The morning of the 19th being very fine, and the weather pro- mifmg, Captain Portlock paid us a vifit, and propofed ftaying the greatell part of the day ; but a Ihong breeze fpringing up from South Weft, he went on board his own (hip early in the afternoon. Mowee at this time bearingWeft of us,, it was determined to make the Eaftermoft point, and come to anchor there.
I fliall conclude for the prefcnt ; but notwithftanding the variety which furrounds us, will relume my pen very foon. Adieu. Thine, &c.
\V. B.
Off Sandwich Islwd'^, }
7sa\\ No\ ember.
<
LETTER
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
91
1785.
Novembci.
LETTER XX r.
CONTRARY winds, and iinfcttlcd weather, fruflrated our (lefign of anchoring at Movvee ; but let me lead thee to tin:. diiappointment in couifc.
In the afternoon of the 19th November, the wind blew frefli at South Well ; and towards evening, increalcd to a llrong gale, attended with thunder, lightning, and heavy rain ; on which we lay to during the night under a clofe-reefed main top-fail, wearing occafionally, and taking every method to guard againft any mif- chicf we might receive from fudden gufls of wind, which frequently are felt amongll thcfc illands.
The morning of the 20th being pretty moderate, the wind dill South Weil, we made fail, and ftood for the Enllermoll point of Mowee, fleering Weft North Weft ; but about noon, as we got under the lee of the land, the bi-ecze lellened, and we had nearly a calm. Sevej-al canoes came oft' to us, but what they brought to fell w as very trifling, being only three or four fmall pigs, a few pota- toes, and a little bread-fruit. At noon, the North Weft end of Mowee bore Weft North Weft, five or fix leagues diftant ; the weather was extremely hot and fultry ; the thermometer being 90 degrees. Having light baitling winds during the afternoon, we kept ftanding along Ihoiv, in order to purchafe \Nli;itcvcr retrcil^- ments thcir.habitants brou!;nt to us.
Hi
u
Th^
92
Nov\ inbcr.
AVOYAGETOTHE
The IllaiKl Mowec has nothing peculiarly ftriking in its appear- ance. The Eail end of the illand is very high, but does not appear mountainous, :..-: it delcends in a pretty regular flope to the water's edge. T'- 1 . ..ilcape is prtttily divcrlified with trees of various kinds, plantations, &c. but thefe feem greatly inferior to thofe I faw at Ovviiyhce.
About five in the afternoon, we had a ftrong breeze at South Wert, and the \Neather grew very fqually, on which we fhortened fail, and itood to the North Weft. At eight o'clock the Weft end of Mowee bore South Weft, five leagues diftant. During the night the weather was pretty moderate.
At fix in the morning of the 21ft, we wore and ftood to the Southward. At eight, the Eaft end of Mowee bore South 20 deg. Eaft ; and the Ifland Morotoy Weft South Weft. Our obfer- vation at noon gave 21 deg. 12 min. North latitude j the extremes of Mowee bore from South 15 deg. Eaft to South 60 deg. Weft j the center of Morotoy South 76 deg. Weft. The weather during the afternoon and night was hot and fultry, with hght variable winds.
In the morning of the 2 2d, we had a number of canoes along- fide, from whom we purchafed potatoes, tare, plantains, fugar- canc, and many other articles for the fliip's ufe. The wind conti- nued light and variable, the Ihip's head frequently round the com- pafs. At noon, the main land of Morotoy bore Weft by South, eight or nine miles diftant.
I fliould obfervc, that the people who came to us from Mowee and Morotoy, feemed to admire our vellels more than any vvc had
hitherto
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
93-
hitherto met with : 'tis probable that many of them had never 1786. feen any Ihips before. November.
During the 23d, we had light winds, fometimcs at Eaft, or Eafl South Eaft, but frequently variable. Being a good diflance from fliore, no canoes came near us. At n> on, the South end of Moro- toy bore South 8 deg. Eaft, five leagues diftant ; our latitude was 21 deg. 30 min. North. At fix o'clock the body of Morotoy bore- South three-quarters Weft j and Mowee South Eaft by South ; dif- tant from fhore about fix leagues. During the greateft part of the night, we had a frefli breeze at South Eaft j and at four o'clock in . the morning of the 24th, we wore, and ftood to the South South Weft. At noon, the Eaft end of Mowee bore South 25 deg. Eaft ; but we were fo far from land, that no canoes came near us. At five o'clock we faw Owhyhee, which bore South 25 deg. Eaft ; . and the Weft end of Mowee South > diftant about {even leagues.
During the night, and greateft part of the 25th, we had light variable winds. Moft of our hogs and vegetables being expended, it was our intention to make Owhyhee as foon as podible, in order to procure a frefh fupply. In the evening of the 25t]i, a frefli breeze fprung up from the Southward, which continued with very little alteration during the 26th and 27th. Our latitude at noon, on the 26th, was 21 deg. 25 min. North. The Eail: end of Mowee then bore South three quarters Eaft. At noon on the 27tli, Mowee bore South by Eaft, and Morotoy South 24 deg. Weft ; the weather tolerably fine, and the wind at South South Weft.
The wind amongft thefe Iflands feems never to blow from one
point for any length of time ; nor can a fteady trade wind, at this
time of the year, by any means be depended on : fometimcs we had
a Fafterlv
i
' 1
H
1
w
II
iM !
u
il
94
A VOYAGE T( THE
17S0. Ealkrly vviiuls, then Southerly, South \ -ft, Well, North- WelT, No\caibcr, >^-^_,j^|^^ .^,^j^ j,^ jliort, fill rouiul the coaipafs, jull as \vc opened
dililrcnt jiuints of land.
The wind iViU ]Kmij,'in5 to the Southward, all intentions ol niakiiTg Owluliec were given up.
On the 2Sih, hcing within four miles of Morotoy, we had fcve- lal canoes alung-iide, which brought us a few iinall hogs, togethci with iome taro and potatoes, but far from fuiiicient to fuj^ply us, fo that it was determined to ftcer for Whahoo. It unluckily hap- pened, that any frefn breezes we met wich came on generally in the niglit, when prudence did not permit us to make much fail ; and in the day-time we hadgener;dly light baflling winds.
At noon, on the 28th, the Bluff end of Morotoy bore South Well: by Well:, about twch e miles dillanr. In the afternoon, \\c had fome fine cooling lliowers of rain, which made the weatlicr much cooler, and more agreeable tlian it had been for fome time pad.
At eight o'clock in the morning of tlie ^ylh, we faw Whahoo, and at noon, the Eafl Hummock bore Welt South Well:, about eight leagues dillant. Our obfervation ga\e 21 (\i:g. 26 min. North latitude. During the afternoon, we kept ftanding alonsj,- the Coaft of Morotoy. At eight o'clock the Round Hummock on Whahoo bore Weft South Well, and the Well end of Morotov, South by Eall. We tacked, and Hood to the North Eall tUl twch x o'clock, when we again tacked, and ilecred South WqH by Well.
In
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
95
In the forenoon of the 30th, vvc kept ftauding Soutli Welt, with 1786. a fine breeze at South Ball. Our cblervation at noon gave 2 1 ^ "^ ^ '"'"'<^'- dcir. 20 min. North latitude. The Weft end of Morotov bore Scuth 45 deg. Eaft; and Whahoo South Weft, diftant about two leagues.
At five in the afternoon we came to anchor in eight fathom water, in the bay we lay in before, and pretty near our old fitu- ation, the Eaft extreme of the bay bearing Eaft by South ; and the \V efternioft land Weft by South, half South, about two miles dif- tant from fliore. In the evening we moored Ihip, v^'ith the ftream anchor and cable.
As it is more than a fortnight fmce we firft made the i (lands, thou mayeft think it fomewhat extraordinary that we did not get into a harbom' before j but thou muft confider, that hogs and vegetables, being what we chiefly wanted, could in general be as ealily procured, by plying oft' and on, as coming to anchor. Again, having a confiderable time to fpcnd among thefe iftands, we were loth to leave thofe to windward, as in that cafe it would be next toimpollible to fetch them again.
If thefe reafons, joined to the contrary and light winds vvc have had lately, arc not fuiricient for thee, it is out of my power to give thee any better : indeed I give myfelf little concern about the mat- ter, generally thinking \^ ith Pope, that " wlwte'-cer isy is right."
Ilowevei', I caiinot help congratulating myfelf on o;u' prcfcnt fituation, compared with what it would have been, ha<l we w'ln- tcred in King Cjoorge's Sound : perhaps by this time the greateft
part of us but 1 v,ill tioul)le tlice with no perhaps's ; let it
fulhcc.
m
96
A VOYAGE TO THE
1786- fuffice, that we are, to a man, in tolerable health, and excellent
December. ^ . .
ipints.
I Ihall take the earlieft opportunity to communicate our tran- factions at this place. Mean while believe mc ever thine,
W. B.
Whahoo, 1 2d Dec, 1
LETTER XXII.
EARLY in the morning of the ift of December, the people began to overhaul oar rigging, fore and aft, it being very much out of order. By day-light we had a number of canoes along-fide, chiefly loaded with water, which we purchafed on the fame eafy terms as before, viz. a large calabafli for an eight-penny or ten-penny nail, and fmaller ones in proportion.
Many of thefe gourds, orcalabaflies, are very wide ai the top, an^ ufed by the natives for various purpofes, and particularly to hold a kmd of pudding made of taro. So eagerly did they purfue this profitable traffic, that they feldom waflied their velFels, and we unavoidably got taro pudding mixed among the water ; but we found it of httle or no prejudice, though the fight would perhaps not have been altogether pleafing to an epicure, The people brought fome hogs, potatoes, and taro, but not a fufficient quan- : iiy to lu]^ply us from day to day : on our enquiring the rcafon,
we
M
NORTFI-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
^J7-
've were given to undcrrtaiul, that the hogs and vegetables were 1786.
tabooed, till the King had been on board the Ihips, and that tliey ^^^•^;
e.xped'ted him to pay us a vifit very ihortly. ]f I rememba- right,
I mentioned the taboo when we were laft at tiie lilands. I ihall
now only juft obfcrve, that its operation is very txtenfive, and
regards not only places, but food, and, in Ihoit, every action of
life.
In the afternoon of the ifl, wc had frequent fqiialls, attended* with a good deal of rain.
By noon on the 3d, we had compleaced our water, and could have procured a gre.it deal more, the natives ftill bringing it with the greatelt avidity. Indeed this is not to be wondered at, if wc eonfider the great value they iet on iron, and that water cofls tlicm only the trouble of fetching from fliorc.
Befides nails, we found buttons very ufeful in our traffic with, thefc people. To the credit of the men be it fpoken, they looked on them as things of no value ; but the females faw them in a very different point of view, and were exceedingly fond of wearing them^ round their wrifls and ancles as brackets, calling them Booboo, and fometimes Poreema. As gallantry is perhaps equally preva- lent here, as in more civilized nations, the men frequently pre- ferred buttons to nails (contrary to their better judgment) in their traiiic. This is an incoHtcltible proof, that the j)ower of beauty is not confined within Jue narrow limits of our polite European cir- cles, but has equpi influence all over the world.
In the forenoon of the 4th, Teercteerc, the King, ]->aid us a vifli, lie came in a large double canoe, attended by two young men.
i''>
05
A y OY A G E TO THE
v.ho we nndoirt'ooil were his ncj.licws, and a number of olhcr Chiefs. Tlie King is a good-K)oking man, and appears abont forty-five or fifty years old : he is tall, flraight, and well-made, but his eyes feem ratb.er weak, and affected with a kind of rheum ; but whether this is owing to difeafc, or a temporary cold, I cannot fiiy. None of the Chiefs had any thing linking in their appear- ance, though it was eafy to fee that thev were above the common rank.
Tiic King's nephews were by far the fineft men \vc had yet feei^ at any of the iilands : they are not brother: Piai)ia, the elder, being, if we underftood right, fon to the King of Atoui ; and Myaro, the younger, fon to a filler of Teei-eteerc.
Plapia is about five feet nine inches high, flraight, and well pio- portioneil ; his legs and thighs very mufcular, his llep firm, and rather graceful ; and there is a dignity in jfis deportment which Ihews him to be a perfon of the firfl: confequcncc. His counte- nance is free and open, but r.ither disfigured by the lofs of three fore teeth, which, as I underllood, were broke for the lofs of a relation, it being the curtom here for the Arees, or Chiefs, to part with a tootli at the death of a friend; his legs, thiglis, arms, and various parts of his body, are tattooed in a very curious man- ner.
Myaro is nearly as tall as his coufin, \^ut caft, (if I may be al- lowed the expreflion) in a more delicate mou'ij : he walks cretT^ and flatcly, and his Hep is very graceful and majulic. It would, I think, bafile the united powers of a Wilton, Bacon, and Roublliac to equal the cxacl fymmetry and fine turn of Jiis legs tind thighs, ' or
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
99
or indeed his whole body ; m fliort, his figure has fomething in it i/^^-
,. , ,1' n- December,
exceedingly prepollellmg.
Teereteere, having fatibfied his curiofity for the prcfent, and Captain Dixon prelenting him with fome beads, and other trifles, left us about two in the afternoon ; and we foon felt the good effects of his vifit, the inhabitants bringing hogs and vegetables in much greater plenty than before, though from the little refpect they feemed to pay him, we were led to fuppofe, that his influence over them was not great ; in this point, however, we were mif- taken.
To lead thee regularly to a circnmfl;ance, which I am now going to mention, it will be neceflary to refer fo far back as our fitting out.
When we left England, the qUvintity of coals ourvcflel was fup- plied with was very inadequate to a voyage like our's, though they were conftantly ufed with the moil fcrupulous care.
As Falkland's Iflands afforded fio ivood, the Coaft of America was the only place where we could procure any Fully expediling to touch at feveral harbours, and perhaps iciiucr in King Geoigc,s Sound, what wood we got in Cook's River was foon expended.
It cannot be forgot, under what circumftances, and witii what reluctance, we left the American Coall -, and the more, as fuel was one of ourgreatell wants ; for though we knew Sandwich Iflands afforded molt of the neceiiaries of life in great plenty, yet we almoll defpaired of getting a fupply of fuel ; but in this refpecit: were moll agreeably diliippointed ; for we no fooner made the natives undcr-
Itand
i i'
m\
J&C
VOYAGE TO THE
i7fc'0. Hand what v.e wautai, ih.r.i they brought us plor.ty of uood, futh I)ccei)ibtn^. _^^ ^^j^{\vci-ej our purpofc oxtrcmtiy well, uaCl which wc purchaicd on the jfamc cily tcrnis as the water.
Dunng lIic 5th nivl 6th, vvc were all very bufily employed ; fonic taking in wood from the natives ; others over-hauling the rieilimr, k.c. and the rclt killing and falting hogs for fea-ltore. The weather fmce the i ll has been ftne and fettled,, with a flcady breeze at North North Halt.
From the 7th to the loth the wind blew frcfli, at Eaft North Eafl; and the fea running pretty high, v:ry few canoes came near us. This weather, howcvei', did not prevent the King and his attendants from paying Uj frequent vifits ; but it was very apparent that intereft, more than curiofity, induced him to come on board fo often ; for though he always brought fomething, byway of a, IVIatano, or prcfent, yet it was generally very trivial, fuch as a fmall hog, a few cocoa-nuts, and fomctimcs a few fmall barbel ; and Captain Dixon always gave him ten times the value. Indeed it would have been extremely impolitic not to have paid him this mark of our rcfpecl and attention, as he couKl, by tabooing the inhabitants, have eafdy prevented a fingle canoe from coming near us ; but by thus feeding his avarice, and gratifying his ambition, he not only allowed, but encoui'aged the people to bj'ing us what- ever the illand afforded. The wind llin continued at Ealt North .Hart ; the weather moderate and tine.
Soon after vvc came to anchor, our whale-boat was hoiftcd out,
to be in readlnefi whenever occafion re(|ii;red ; and was generally
fecured by her jiainter to tlie lhii)'s Hern. A boy was ordered to
look after her in the day-time, and in the night, llic watch always
2 kejn
m,:
^:ORTIT-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
JOT
kept a good look out ; and liaving moon-Iiglit, the boat hitlierto 17S&, Jiad bccnfafc; but in the evening of the nth, Ibmeofthe natives '^"•■'^''"^'*'■• had formed a defigii to (leal her, (the moon not rifrng till paft mid- :iight) and we faw feveral canoes bufy about her painter. Ou t' '3, Captain Dixon fired two mufquets over their heads, whicli made them Ihecr off with precipitation, and we got her on board next day, for fear of a fecond vifit of the like nature.
In the forenoon of the 1 2th, we caught a large fliark, and know- ing it would be a very acceptable prcfent to the King, Captain Dixon fcnt to inform fome of his people who happened to be on board the King George of it.
Tecrctccre prefently fcnt his fon, with feveral attendants, in a large canoe, for the fliark, which feemed to plcafc them very •nnich. The King fent a fine hog by his fon, as an equivalent for our prcfent ; but the young man, with a degree of honefty peculiar to his country, fold us the hog for a large toe.
,ji M
The lafl: time we v\cre at Whahoo, in failing from thence to Atoui, we pafied a bay to the Weftward of our prcfent fituation, which promifed to afford a good harbour ; the furrounding coun- try fertile, and full of inhabitants. At that time we had no oppor- tunity of examining it, but now, having fufficient Icifure, on the i^.th Captain Portlock fent his long boat, (which had been decked, and fchooner-iigged, fince we came to Whahoo) with iMr. Ifay- ivard, l-.is Third Mate, accompanied by our Third Mate, Mr. White, to furvcy the bay accurately.
Mr. Hayward returned in the morning of the 1 5th, and reported, that there v as no conveniei\t anchoi'age in any part of the bay ^
and
t ' !■
li
ic;
A ^^ O Y A G E TO THE
i;^!6, nml that there was from fixty-fix to feventy fathom water clofc hi JlHl]]^ lliore. We now learnt, that Teeretccrc generally refidcd in thi:> bay, which is called by the natives VVhitette Bay.
Except the affair of the whale-boat, we had difcovcrcd very few thefts ; but this, doubtlcfs, has been owing to our keeping the veflel as clear of the natives as poflible, more than their honeildif- pofition, which we are allured is not at all to be depended on.
I fliall embrace every opportunity of acquainting thee with our future proceedings ; mean while, believe me thine, (Sec.
\VH-\H 00,
ibUiDcc.
L E T T E R XXIII.
/\ MONGST the few vifitors we admitted on board, (bcfide? XV the King, and his attendants) was an old prieil, who fecmcd to have conhderable authority amongrt the natives. lie always brought two attendants with him ; one purpolely to pre- pare his Ava, and the other to be always near his perfon, whenever he fliould be wanted. The Ava is a root, fomewhat relembling ovi hquoncc m Ihape and colour, but totally different in taite. None but the Arees, or Chiefs, are permitted to ufe it, and they never pre- pare It themlehes. but always keep a fervant, wliofe fole bulinels i.
(Gnny-
p,il
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
1^3
(Ganymede like) to prepare and anminifter this nclicious potation 17S6. to liis mailer. He firrt begins by chewing a fufficient quantitv, ^"'-''^'■■"''"•''■• till it is well maflicated ; this is put into a neat wooden bowl, made for the purjiofe, and a fmall quantity of walcr being poured over, it is well fqucezcd, and the li(|uor afterv, ards drained through a piece of cloth. The delicious beverage is now compleat, and is drank with the highell relilh.
This root is of an intoxicating nature, but feems to ftupify, rather than cxhilirate the fpirits. Its effeds are very pernicious, if we may judge by the old ])rieft, who appeared greatly emaciated, and his body was covered with a white fcurf, which had the appear- ance of the leprofy. The wind ftill kept at North Eall, and Eaft North Ead ; but from the 13th to the 16th, a very heavy fwell fet into the bay from the South Eaft, which caufed the veifel to roll vciv much.
Wi
V, I
i.l
On the 14th, we perceived the natives very bufily employed on the hill, at the South Eafl: extreme of the illand ; and by noon on the 15th, their work was fo far advanced, that we could plainly difcern they were erecting a houfe, though the diftance from us was very confulerable. The fame afternoon, all the canoes left both fliips, and not one returned in the evening, which, till now, bad never been the cafe ; for, as an intercourfe with women was allowed, (indeed it could not eafily be prevented) our people never tailed to have a number on board every night. This made us i"uf- pe;l, that the people were tabooed ; and our conjectures proved to Iv right, for during the whole of tlie i6th, not a fuigle canoe ap- peared in the bay ; but the funimit of the mountain round the *iew creeled cdilice, was perfeClly crowded with people the wli;/lo
d:lV;
i
11 , i
104
A VOYAGE TO THE
17S6. tiay; and in the evening, a number of fires were li^Iitcd as near
December. , , 1 • i 1 1
the place as the vvniu would permit.
In tho morning of the 17th, we were in the (Imie quiet fituation ; not a canoe to be iccn, but the hill fecmed pretty well cleared of its vlfitants. About ten o'clock in the forenoon, a man who was a Uia.iger to us, came on board, bringing with him a very fmall pi '2;, as a prefcnt, and a branch of the cocoa-palm to fix at the maft hcail. This made us ho})e that the taboo was taken oft", and the more, as all our hogs and vegetables were confumed. Soon after- wards our old acquaintance the priell paid lis a vifit, bringing a few trifles, as ufual, by way of prefent, and for which he always got five times the value. We had ilrongly fufpecled this old man to bethecaufc of the taboo, as he left the fliip on the 15th, fecm- ingly much diiiatisfied with fomething or other, and had not been near us till now ) but we were convinced, that our conjeclures were ill-founded, tiiough he gave no fatisfactory accoimt of the recent tranf iclions on Ihore ; but kept rcjicating with great vociferation, and for a confiderablc length of time, " Tccrciccre pooncpoonc^ Tecrctccrc drrc'-.nriiy" or that the King was a liar, fcoundrel, and deceitful pcrfon ; Pooncpooju' and arrcoura^ being terms of re- proach. From this it was evident, that fomething had been tran- facling contrary to ellviblilhed cuilom, or the rules of the country. About noon, Teereteere came on board, bringing his uiiial prefent of a hog, fome filli, and a few cocoa-nu':s. A number of canoes i\ow came along-lidc, from whom we bcucrlit a few hoiis and vecie- tables, but could obtain no fatisfactory account from any of tliem why the taboo was laid on. Some of theingave us to underlland, liiat there had been a folemn felliva^ at the top (jt the mountain ; and, if we luiderfluod light, a human facrince offered, but whether
a man
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
105
a man or woman, we could not lean. The women, however, 1786. were ftill tabooed, and none fufFered to come near the iliips. I^^^cembtr.
About midnight, our fmall bower-cable parted in a fuddcn gufl of wind, on which we let go the beft bower. On heaving in the cable, we found it very much hurt, which we fufpecled to be done by the foulnefs of the bottom.
The fornier part of the iSth was fpent in fearching for our anchor, which we did not find till noon, the buoy being funk. No time was loft in attempting to get it on board ; and about fix in the afternoon, we had nearly effefted our purpofc, when a fiid- i\Qi\ fquall coming on, fnapt the haufer which we had bent to that part of the cable remaining to the anchor, when it v/as almoft at the bows. This was a vexatious circumllance, and we were afraid that the recovering our anchor would be attended with difficulty, as the evening was lowering, and feemed to forebode tempeftuous weather J but as night came on, the fky cleared up, and the next morning proved fine, with little or no wind, fo that we got the anchor on board by eleven o'clock.
We now were fiipplicd with hogs and vegetables, in tolerable plenty, but no women were fujfteied to come on board the (liips : the rcaibn for this, we luiderftood was, a woman had been detected eating poik on board one of the vellels. It feems the women are always tabooed from eating pork on lliore, and breaking throuiih reftrlclions of this fort, is reckoned a crime of tlie firll mae^nitude ; nay, we were allured, that the poor wretch had fallen a victim to the laws of her country, and had aiSlunlly ;.rc'i offered as a facrifice., to appeafe, I fuppofe, tlie wrath of their gocl^:, for lb heinous a crime. But befides this ah'air of the facrifice, tiicic was
Q
another
'^
ki
i m
! ' 1)
M
r
>iii
ij|.i
io6
A VOYAGE TO THE
1786. another motive, it fcems, for the large concourfc of people we hau December. ^-^ j.^^^jy ^-^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^p ^£ ^j^^, mountain, and which accounts for
the ilricl taboo laid on the natives, during the time of this general .aflembly.
Teereteere had caufed the houfe I have mentioned at the top of the hill, to be built as a kind of repofitory, or ftore-houfe, for fuch articles as the natives might obtain in the courfe of their traffic with our veflels : when this was compleated, he caufed the bay to be tabooed, and convened a general aflembly of the inhabitants at the top of this mountain, directing them at the fame time, to bring whatever trade they had got, that it might be depofited in his new- erefled edifice. This being efFe6led, he found means, on fome pretext or other, to appropriate one-half of thefe (lores to his own ufe. We now no longer wondered at the old prieft venting his reproaches fo very liberally, as it was pretty evident Teereteere had exerted his authority contrary to the rules ofjuftice and equity.
Though the little we (aw of thefe tranfa6lions, or what infor- mation we got refpe6ling them, is infufficient for me to draw any conclufive determination as to their laws ; yet of this we are cer- tain, that the horrid cuftom of offering up human facrifices, on certain occafions, aclually exifls amongft thefe iflands, and that the King's authority is abfolute.
It was evident, from our late misfortune, that we could not keep our prelent fituation witliout damaging the cables ; fo that it was determined to leave this illand, and (leer for Attoui the fird oppor- tunity.
At
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
107
At five o'clock in the afrernoon of the 19th, Captain Portlock 17S6. made the fignal for weighing anchor, which we did in a fliort '•■*-'-'"' ''^^'"• time, and flood out of the bay with a moderate eafteily breeze. After ftanding on for fome time, we could fee nothing of the King George following us, on which we wore, and ftretched again into the bay. On fpeaking Captain Portlock, we were informed that they had not yet purchafed their anchor, and were doubtful whe- ther they Iho dd be able to accomplifli it in the courfe of the even- ing. However, we kept under an eafy fail, making fliort boards, till pall eight o'clock, when Captain Portlock made the fignal for us to anchor.
About ten o'clock in tlie morning of the 20th, the King George being a-weigh, we weighed and made fail, llanding out of tlie bay, with a moderate breeze at North Eaft. By noon we were about ton miles from the bay. We learnt from Captain Portlock, that the Indians had cut his bell bower-cable which had occafioned his delay the preceding evening, and this morning. Captain Portlock had Piapia, the King's nephew, on board, accompanied with the man who ufed to chew Ava for Tceretcere. It feems Piapia was fo exceedingly attached to Captain Portlock, that he was determined to go with him to Pritane, as they call England ; and the cup- bearer was inclined to follow the fortunes of his young mailer. The day being line, fcveral canoes, filled with the relations and friends of thel'e new v\)yagcrs, followed the King George to a con.- fiderable di (lance from Whahoo j and when they took their leave of tliem for ever, as they thouglit, their grief was exprened in the inoll audible manner, wringing their hands, and making the moll bitter lamentations all the time they were in light of the veflel : neither did Plaj)ia, and his fervant take leave of their friends and country, wilnout cxprelling fomc degree of conccni ; but their
regret
i!
i!
I '• I,
I
I
i
iii
,'i
io3
A VOYAGE TO THE
17S6. regret wns Icfs at prcfent, as their attention was, In a great mea- I'-iccciiibcr. ^.^^^.^^ ^^j.^^j^ ^^^^ ^^,^^1^ ^1^^, novelty of their fituation.
We had Ught baffling winds, till the evening of the 21ft, vshen a Orons: breeze came on at Nortli Eall, which brought us in fight of Atoui, in th.e morning of the 22d. At noon our latitude was 12 deg. 12 min. North; the Eafl point of land bore Eaft North Eatl, about fix miles diflant from Hiore. The Ifland Onehow Weft Soutli Weft ; Wymoa Bay, the place where we propofed to anchor, bcinfr to the Southward and Weftvvard. About two o'clock, being as yet coniidcrably to the Eaftward of our propofed anchoring place, we palled over a good deal of ihoal water, having fcldom more than five fathom, over a fandy bottom ; the adjacent fliore, which was not more than two miles diftant, appeared level and v.xll cultivated.
About three o'clock, Captain Portlock let go his anchor, and wc having bottom in twenty-five fathom, and at a convenient diftance from the King George, prepared to do the fame, which, though we did with all expedition, and veered out fifty fathom cable, the anchor did not bring us up : this made us conjecture that we had drove off the bank, and our opinion was confirmed on heaving the lead over, as we found no bottom with eighty fathom line. Whilft our anchor was purchafing, we unavoidably drifted to lee- ward, fo that it was impraclicable to make the fituation we firft intended. On this we made feveral boards, and about five o'clock came to in a very good fituation, near tiiree miles North Well: of the King George, in eighteen and half fiithom water, over a fandy bottom, inclining to mud. A long, low, fandy point to the South Weft, bearing Weft by South ; the Eaftermoft point of the bay Eaft South Eaft j the mouth of a frefli water river Nortii Eaft by
Eaft,
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
i \\
lO^
Ead, rather more than a mile diftant from fliore. The Illand 1786. Onchow South South Weft. December.
Our tranfac^ions at this place fliall be the fubjecl of my next. Thine,
W. B.
Atoui, 7
2.2d Dec. )
LETTER XXIV.
ATOUI was the firft place Captain Cook anchored at, when thcfc iilands were difcovercd by him ; fo that it was known to afford great plenty of hogs and vegetables : the former we wanted to cure for fea-ftore, as the hogs we had bought fmce our leaving Owhyhce afforded us little more than a daily fupply.
Early in the morning of the 23d December, wc were furrounded by a number of canoes, mod of them well loaded with taro, pota- toes, fugar-cane, and cocoa-nuts, and a good number of fine hogs. This plainly Ihewed us, that the ijiliabitants knew we were come for a fupply of provifions, and had prepared tliemfelves accord- Migjy. W'c found the roots much cheaper, and In greater plenty than at Whahoo ; but fintling we were deiirous of buying large hogs, they were at firft exorbitant in their demands, at leaff in ]>ioportion to what wc had given at the other iflands, on which we
feemcd
111
! i
I < -J
I III .
,
no
A VOYAGE TO THE
1786. leemed indllTcrcnt about the matter, and by this means foon Dcccin er. |^q^,^jj{. j^Jj^ i.|ig^.ft ]iogs for ouc large, or two middling-fizcd toes.
On our afking for water, they prefcntly brought us fomc very excellent, indeed the bcrt by far we had hitherto met with. This kind of tiaHic was entirely new to them, and they very gladly fup- pilcd us on tlic lame ealy terms we bought it for at Whahoo. Cocoa-uuts we found in the greatell })knty ; the fettled price for ihcm was five for an eightpenny nail. The fugar-cane was ex- ceeding fine, and equally cheap. The tarohereis by far the fined of any we met with, and very plentiful ; we commonly got five fine roots for an eightpenny or tenpenny nail. This illand pro- duces no yams, and very little, if any bread-fruit.
The weather till the 27th was moderate and fine ; but on that day, a ftrong breeze fprung up at Eafl North Eaft, and a heavy fwell let in from Eaft South Eaft, right along fhore : we were moored witli the ftream-anchor, and rode much eafier than at Whahoo ; befidcs, the bottom here being free from rocks, we were under lefs anxiety in regard to our cables.
The 28th, and part of tiie 29th, were wet and dirty ; but towards evening, the Iky brightened up, and the weather grew moderate and fine.
This being Chriflmas, that feafon of the year fo univerliilly convvial throughout the civilized world, wc f|_cnt our time i;s agreeably, and with plenty of as good cheat as we coukl procure, fuch ;\s rcait- pig, fea-pie, &c. &c. and to flicw our refined talle, cvtn m our licpior, we i-.o longer (h'ank grog mixed with limjde watei-, but offered our Chriltmas libations in punch, mixed with
the
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Ill
tlic juice of tlic cocoa-nut, toafUng our friends and mi^lrcdcs in 1787. hunipeis of this liquor, vvliicli, perhaps, plcai^d more on account -^]^^.!\ of its novelty, than from any other circumilance.
The vveatlier fcldom continued fettled for more than a day toge- ther ; ftrong hreezes at Eall North Eall, with a heavy South Eall fvvell, fiequently intervening.
By the 4th of January, 1787, we had falted and packed five puncheons of pork for fea-llorc ; but hogs now grew rather fcarce, not that we fuppofed the fcarcity real, but owing to fonie fcheme or other of the petty Chiefs. We had for fome time expe6led a vifit from the King, and been given to undcrlland, that his pre- fencc, like a cornucopia, would teem with plenty ; but his Majelly had not as yet thought proper to favour us fo far.
Abbenouc, the Chief, whom we met with at Onchow laft year, was generally on board the King George, and being attached to Captain Portlock, caufed plenty of fine hogs to be fent him ; but at prefent we found very little of his influence reach on board our vcllel.
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From the 5th to the 9th, the wcatlier was in an unfcttled fiate, tlie wind frequently fliifting to the Weftward, but feldom blew from that quarter twelve hours together, and then only a moderate breeze. During this time, we were daily vifitcd by the natives, who kept bringing us a few hogs, with taro, cocoa-nuts, &c. but barely fufficient tofupplyus from hand to mouth.
Befides this traffic, which was carried on for neceflaries, the na- tives had a brilk trade for curiofities of various kinds, inch as
cloaks,
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A \^ O V A G E TO THE
1787.
Taiuinry.
cloaks, caps, mats, fifhing-lines and hooks, necklaces, kc, &c. I jirobably may attempt to dcicribe them at a future opportunitv, They likcwilc brought great numbers of beautiful blrd-lkins. 111 excellent ^nxnbrvation : thefe were generally made up m parcels ot ten each, bv a wooden fkewer run through their beaks. On our u'lfhing to procure fome of them alive, we foon found plenty oi- bird-catchers, and the living birds were fold nearly as eh.\ip as the prefervcd ones : they are near the fize of a robin, the breait and throat of a mo/c bea.itiful lively red, with a long beak, the wings and back a deep brou-n. I am inforn^cd by Mr Hogan, Surgeon of the Kins Geoiire, who I before oblei-\ed to thee, has iludied Natural Ilillory, that they arc a fpecies of the humming-bird. Thefe birds being purchafed by us with great avidity, the: natives were induced to bring every thing of the kind they could lay hold of, among which was a Ipecies of wild-duck. Captain Dixon, on feeing them, concluded the illaud afforded plenty of game, and being fond of lliooting, took two or three opportunities of going onihorewitli his gun, attended only by a fervant, in owq of the Indian canoes. 1 iic man to whom the canoe belonged had been very alTiduous in bringing off water, and fuch other articles for our ufe, as were in his power; indeed he had been greatly noticed by many of us, and treated kindly, particularly by Ca])tain Dixon. on account of the great |-cfeniblancc he bore to one of our people the man feemcd hiidilv ll.nill>le of the preference given to him before liis neighbours, and wa;: not a little i)roud of his newollice.
The i\\i\ time on.r Captain went on fliorc, he was ai>prehen(ive that the natives, by crowding about him, would fpoil his divcrfujn ; but he found himfdf agreeably millaken. Curlofity was excited ir- a much lefs degree liere than at Whahoo -, inliead of being lur- roundcd by crowds of idle, in«pufiiive gazers, the people generally 1 lluek
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
^'3
ftuck clofe to whatever employments they were engaged in, fuch as 17R7. manufadurhig cloth, makhig Uncs, ropes, &C. To that hetraverfed /"^'^ the country with as much cafe, as he could have done in England. Contrary to his expectation, he did not find game very plentiful, yet never returned without Ibme fpoils of the field, fuch as ducks, terns, a fpecies like our water-hen, and vaiious other kinds.
By this time, the wood we procured at Whalioo hegan to grow fliort, on account of the conilant fires wc were obliged to keep for heating water to fcald hogs, and various other purpofe?. On this we applied to the natives for fome, though without any languine hopes of our application being fuccefsful, as the mountains where the woods grow are farther up the country on this illand, than at any of the others ; however, our application was veiy fuccefsful, the natives to a man engaging in this traffic, and every individual bringing us more or lefs of the article we wanted, though it was evident, from many poles and rafters brought for falc, and which liad been recently pulled out of the grouml, that their fences, and perhaps houfes, had been dcmolillied for our accommotlation, and I may fay, their profit j yet this proceeding fervcs to fliew, that any thing whatever this illand, or indeed any of the group affords, may cafily be obtained, foguat is the value they let on iron.
The weather continuing unfetdcd, and the fupply of vegetables being Infufhcient to ferve us dally, it was determined to make Oneehow the firft ojiportunity : i'o early in the morning of liie icth January, Captain Portlock made the fignal for weighing . ichor. I have before obferved, that he lay farther out at kathau uc did, i'o that he was favoured with a good EalVerly ,)iccze, at the fiune time we were becalmed, and could not poilibly anfwcr bis
fignal. After making a fhort board, finding the v.ind li;;ht and
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A VOYAGE TO THE
17S7. baffling; Captain Portlock came to anchor pretty ncarlus old fitu-
lanuary.
ation.
At five o'clock in the morning of the iitli, a flrong breeze fpringing up at Eall South Eall:, \vc weighed and matle fail, land- ing diredly for Oneehow ; the breeze continued during the fore- noon, with tiiunder, lightning, and rr.in. At noon, the Weft end of Atoui bore North 21 deg. Eaft, (even leagues diftant ; and the high land on the South end of Oneehow, South 70 deg. Weft. Wc fully expecfeil to have anchored at Oneehow by three o'clock, but before that time, the wiml veered to the Weftward, which made it impofiible for us to attempt it.
From the nth to the i8th, we had frelh Weftcrly and Nor- therly breezes, light baffling winds intervening at times.
On the i5tli, the King George weathered the South point of Oneehow ; and on the 16th, we loft fight of her, vvhicii made us conclude ihe had come to an ;mciior : our vcllel being very foul, could not work to windward equal .0 the King George, lb that wc contented ourfelves in ))lv!ng between theillands, making longer or ihoitcr boards, as circumftances recpiircd ; however, we could not help repining at our fituation, when compared with that (;f oui' fellow-voyagers i but the «v^nt Ihevvcd, iJKit they were far fiom being in an enviable fituatmn. Duiii'.g tins time we took care to ftretch well to flie South\» nJ and Ealhvard, a precaution which proved exceedingly necdiary ; for on the 19th, a ftrong gale of wind came on at South Weft, witii u very heavy crofs ila, vvhicli continued till noon on the 21 A
Is
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA..
1 1
In the afternoon of the 20th, the weather being thick and hazy, 1787. we loft light of land, and did not fee it again till near noon on the J^^^^^''^; 22d, when Atoui bore from North 15 deg. Eaft, to North ^^ dcg. Well ; diilant about four leagues.
During this gale, we were undc-- great apprehcnfions for Cap- tain Portlock's fafety, as his fituation we knew mult be a very cri- tical one, no harbour at Onechow afibrding tlie leaft fhelter from a Soutlierly or Wctlcrly wind. But at one o'clock on the 22d, we law the King George, to our great fatisfaclion, bearing Wed by North, about three leagues diftant.
I' 'oni her fituation, it was evident, that fhe had failed round Oneehow, and we did not doubt hut that flie had been obliged, by the violence of the gale, to flip, or cut her cables, and run to lea. '1 he wind continued wefterly till the 25th, when it veered to South Hall, and loon afterwards to North North Eaftj this being fa- vourable for us, and likely to continue from that (juartcr, \vc again llood for Onechow, and in the evening of the 26th, came to anchor in Yam Bay, in twenty-nine fathom water, over a fandy bottom j the extremes of Oneehov/ bore from South Eaft to North by Well-, a mile and half diilant from Ihorc ; the llland Tahoora South 48 deg. Well.
During the 27th, the wind kept at North North Eaft, but blew fo frelh, that our fituation was by no means an eligible one. Our piinci})al motive in coming to Oneehow was, to {)rocure a fupply of yams, they being the only loot this illand ad'oids, which will keep for any time ; but the furf lan (o high, that vciy few canoes ventured olf t(.) us. The fame reafon operated agalnll our attempt- ing to learch for the anchors left here by Ca])tain Portlock. The
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King George laying near two miles from us, wc hove up our anchor in the morning of the 28th, and after making a few boards, came to with our belt bower, in twcnty-feven fathom water, over a bot- tom of land, mixed witii coral, about two miles dillant from Ihore, and at a convenient diihmce from the King George. Our fears for Captain Portlock dui'ing the gale, were but too well founded ; he had been reduced to the necellity of cutting his cables, and run- ning to fea ; and liiough he embraced the moll favourable oppor- tunity of doing this, yet he had barely room to weather the break- ers at the North point of the bay. This was a moll llriking lellbu for us, in regard to our future conducl, and pointed to us the ma- nifeft impropriety of murmuring at— may I be allowed to fay .?—
the difpenlations of Providence ! Had we been fortunate enough
to have made Yam-Bay at the time the King George did, 'tis im- poilible to fay what cur fituation would have been, or where we might have drove, when necellity forced us to quit it hut few of us were philofophers enough to acknowledge witli tlie Poet, that
I
" Tlic ways of Hcnvcu arc dark andintricatc,
" Puzzl'ii in iiia/.cs and pcrplcx'd in errors,
" Our underftanding traces 'cm in vain,
" Loft and bcwiklcr'd in tlic truitlds fcarcli ;
" Nor fees witli iiow mucli art tilt" windings run,
" Nor where llie regular confufion ends."
'Tis impoflible for me, when circumilances of this fort are immediately before my eyes, to avoid moralizing in fonie degree, cfpecialiy when I meet withafet of men who attribute any ////'/'''/ i'' evil that bcfals them to mifcoiniu^ ; any temporary fuccefs to good- foriuui\ entirely forgetting, that 'tis a gracious Providence who '' direct?, impels, and rules the whole.".
I Hiall
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
I fiiall therefore, in future, make no kind of apology for digref- fions of this fort, however foreign they may be to iny narration, as J am fcnfible thou wilt make every kind allowance for the imper- feftions of thy alfured friend,
W. B.
Onkf.iiow, ? 29tli Jan. i
I ly
1787. January.
!^' .
LETTER XXV
IN the afternoon of the 28th of January, the vi'ind veered tj the VA-uward, blowing a frefl'' breeze ; this made us appre- hend a return of unfettled weather, and experience having taugiit us, that there was no laying here with a Wcftcrly wind, it was determined to get to fca, Ihould the breeze continue from that quarter.
On the 29th, about two o'clock, the wind ftlll Weftcily, Captain Portlock made the fignal for weighing anchor : by three we made fail, and Hood along the coall, iiitending to (Iretch well to the Southward and Eallvvard, that at all events, we might keep clear of the land
During the 30th, the weather was tolerably fmc, and the wind Hutting to North Well, il was judged i)roper to make Wymoa-Bay, Atoui, which we did, and came to anchor about eleven o'clock, about two miles to the Eaftward of our old fituatiouj in twcuty-
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A V 0 Y A G E TO THE
iivc faihom water, over a landy bottom ; tliC cxtrc.nes of the land ivom South Eall by Eall to Well three quarters North.
On the :; il>, we moored with both bowers, determining to ftay ]i.':rc wild. I the weaihcr permitted, this bay being -reatly preferable t(i t!ij road at Oi^.eeiiow ; and as it was yet too foon by llx weeks lor us to tliink of profeeuting our Voyage to the Northward, tlie objecls of our prefent concein were tolhition the velivls wdiere they coukl he with mo'd fafety, and at t]\c fame time, wliere the bell i'uppb/ of proviiions and water coukl be procured ; on thel'e kittcr account'.;, if we except the article of yams, Atoui was by far the moll delirable ntuation now within our rcacli.
From tlie ill to the Sth of February, we had hght variable winds, with fine moderate weather. The velfels now layhig much nearer to each other tlian before, we frequently were favoured with Abbenoue's company ; with the help of a few prefents, he be- came our very good friend, and we frequently found the good ett'ech of his influence, v.hich was not a little, in getting our various v>:uU5 fupplied.
Abbcnoue is of a middle fize, and appears to be about fifty years ;)ld : v^■hcn we firll faw him at Oneehow, his body was almofl covered with a white fcurf, and his eyes feemed weak, occafioncd by an immoderate ufe of the Ava ; but he then difconlinued tbe tli-inking it at our re(|uell. The good cffcfls of tliis mode- ration were vilibly iccny for his ikin began to refume its former colour, his eyes looked frelh and lively, and he had altogether the appearance of health and vigour. lie has a fon named Tyheira, v^hofe authority feemed pretty extenfive, and who feemed equally folicitous to render us friendly offices -, but he v/as tar
from
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
from poflefTing the activity or intelligent powers of his father, nor was his friendlliip of the fame free, cUfintercfled kind, all his actions evidently being influenced by mercenary, interelied views ; and to effe6lually fecurc his attachment, it was lomctimes nccelfary to have recourfe to a bribe, and he wonld accept of a fmall toe, or even a nail, fooncr than mifs a Matano, or prefcnt. Bclides the friendly offices of Abbenoue and Tyhcira, wc had frequent vifits from two other Chiefs, who frequently lupplied us with hogs and vegetables ; their names were Toetoe, and Nomaitahaite ; but the latter was always known by us under the denomination of Long- fliauks, from his being remarkably tall and thin, and his legs and thighs appearing too long for his body. Toetoe is well advanced in years, and appears greatly debilitated by the immoderate ufe of Ava, but unlike Abbenoue, he cannot form a refolution to leave it off. He appears to poffefs a very large portion of taro plantations, and fupplied us with larger quantities of that root, than any of the other Chiefs, and was always perfeclly fatisfied with whatever was offered him in return.
119
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I.or.g-fiianks alfo, was very affiduous in fupplying our wants j and though his authority is greatly inferior to that of Abbenoue, or Toetoe, yet v. e found him extremely ufefnl on many occalions ; though it mull: be confeiied, that like Tyhcira, he was mercenary ill his demands, and continually beg:,irg fomeihing (;r otlier, by wav cif Matano. I had for'j;ot to oblerve, that we had b.xn fic- quently viiited by a brother of the Ring, who always cimo in ;i tine large d^nibie canoe, attended by a nvmil»er of inkrior Chiefs ; but, whether tratlk was reckoned beneath his di-nity, or from I know not what motive, he feUiam brought any thing with him to difjiofe of; lb that curiofity, no doubt, prinei^ :iily induced hini to vifit us. His d.'.ughtwr, a line child aboat kvcn years old, generally ^ ciunc
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A V 0 ^' A G E TO T II E
rtloiig with liini ; )ie treated her with a fondncfs truly paternal, carrying her for the mod part in liis arms, and when fatigued, his luteiidants anxioudy drove which Ihould have the honour of bear- ing little Mifs, till the father again reaii.nncd ids pretty charge. On exprefiins; a dehre to come on board, Ihe was handed over the fide with the utmod care, and wdien on board, was never luftered to dand on the deck, bac alw ays kept in the arms of her father, or one of the attendants, who, we underftood, w\.s a relation. Cap- tain Dixon made her a prefer.t of a bead Ejaie, or necklace, with wiiich die was wonderfully pleafed.
The attention and tendernefs flicwn to this little girl, fo totally dlrterent from what wc had hitherto (ctn, gave us an idea of the manner in which the female children of the Arees are treated, and may ferve to throw Ibme light on the general character of thefe people.
For fome days wc w^ere fupplied by the Chiefs I have juft men- tioned, with a few hogs, taro, 8cc. fullicient, as they thought, for our daily confumption -, none of the petty Chiefs, or common people coming near us. Abbcnoue informed us, that the people were tabooed, and that nobody durd bring any thing to fell, not even water, till the King had paid us a vifit, w liich he propofed to do very (hortly.
U'c ntvcr could learn the true caufe of this taboo being laid on, and which it fecms did not extend to the principal Chiefs ; though if we compare it to the fame fituation at Whahoo, under fimilai circumdances, there is good rcafon to fuppolo, that it is done in o'der to exacl fonie trdnitc or acknowlcigment iVoni tiie people, for the pr' vilcgc of f;ding with us.
On
^: O 11 T' 11 - \V !■ S T C C) A S T O I ' \ M Y. R I C A .'
On the 5lh of Fubiu;iry, the King paid ii^ his promlfcd vlfit. lie canic in :'. Inrgu double ccmoe, attended by a number of Chiefs, cxckillve of tlie men v. lie) padiiled the canoe. Amo!igfi- the at- Kiidants was Pijjna, \v!io, I infoii-ned thee, Captain Portlock biou!;ht fioni W li:ihoo. It leems Piapia had taken fuch, a likinp; to l\is fituation, that he wai determined to ihiy at Atoui, and had entirely given up his intention of going to Pritane. Indeed Cap- t:iin Portlock guelled this would be tiie cai'e, and on that account tlic more readily brought him from Whalioo. His defire to leave his native countiy originated, no doubt, from a love t.f novelty ; and this love of novelty, or variety, call it v/hich thou wilt, fhews itfeif amongd young people, in a greater or lefs degree, in the moll civilized part of the world.
121
.787.
•clirii.irv.
The keen edge of this novelty was a good deal wore off, before we anchored at / toui, and when Piapia went on fliorc there, and i'oiiud himfelf in the midd of his friends and relations, whom he had not fecn for a conlitlerahle time, I^:>me of them perhaps not at all, 'tis no wonder that the little predilection he now had for his new voyage, was entirely dellroyed ; and that he Ihould refolve to take up his abode with his former friends.
But to return to his Majelly :— his name, if I underffood him light, is Tiara ; he is a good-looking middle aged man, and favours Teeieteerc, King of W'hahoo, whofe brother, it feems, he is very much, but he appears to be a man of fuperior knowledge, and a better capacity He alked many queltioriS about the veflel : !n what manner we ikered her? How v.e managed the fails ? ice. He admired the compafs very much, and feemed to con-nprehend, that it was our guide to various j)arts of the world : he v,a par- t'cularly anxious to know which part of the compafs pointed to-
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A \' O V A G E TO THE
n-ards Pritanc, and how far it was off: in Hioit, lie was very in- quilitivf ; manyoF his qucltions were remarkably pertinent, and \'o far from being aiked merely to gratify an idle curiofity, (though even then they woukl have been narural enough) that they mani- fefted an eager defire of information, and evidently (hewed, that the queftioner waspolielfcd of llrong natui-al abilities.
Before his Majelly left the velfel, Captain Dixon made him a prefent of a few toes, and fonie beads, which pleafed very mucli, and lie tokl us the taboo llioukl be taken off, and the peo'ple fuffered to trade with us as before. He was as good as his word, and in a day or two, things wxrein their foi'mer channel, the natives bring- ing us hogs, taro, fugar-cane, cocoa-nuts, plantains, water, curi- cfities, 6cc. asufual.
I have before obfcrved, that the weather was moderate and' fine I and that this opportunity might be improved to the beft ad- vantage, the carpenters of both veflels were veiy bufily em])loyed in caidking the decks, fides, and wherever occafion required ; the ftern, and quarter-boards were frclli painted, and the lides paid with a compofition of pitch, tai', and oil. The rigging was over- hauled, and any occalional re])airs made that were found necefi'ary ; and that nothing might be omitted wliich could poffibly conduce towards perfectly eftablilhing the health of our ihips companies, and enable us to profecute the aj)proaching fcafon with vigour, an agreement was made with Abbenoue for our peoj)le to recreate themfelvcs on fliorc, without being moleficd by the natives ; he alfo was to provide fufficient rcfrcfliments for them, when there.
t was
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
I was on Ihore in one of thefe parties of ploafurc j an account of which exciniion, and the fumptuous dinner provided for us by Abbenouc, Ihall be the fubjcct of my next. IVIcan while beUevc me to be (incerely tliine,
\V. B.
Atoui, ) (jih Feb, I
LETTER XXVI.
i«l
1787.
Fcbru
IF my memory ferves me right, I promifetl thee, at the conclu- fion of my laft, fome account of an excurfion I had made on Hiore at Atoui, and the reception I met with there. Promifes, in my humble opinion, whatever the generality of the world may think, fhould ever be held facred and inviolable ; therefore I fliall endeavour to fulfil mine, in the bell manner I am able.
The weather, in the morning of the 9th of February, being fine, 1 went along with Mr. White, and feveral of our peo})lc, to take a day's recreation on flioie. When we got near the beach, the furf ran fo high, that we brought our boat to an anchor two cables kiu'"th from it ; but our good friend Abbenoue had taken care to provide againft this inconvenience, and got a number of his people ready with canoes to land us, wliichthcy did as iafely, and with as much expedition, as a London Waterman could do at Tower ."^lairs.
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A VOYAGE TO T II T
We landed clofe by the frcih \^ iifr river I mentioned when we firft c;i!nc to anclior at this iilaiul, and whicl\ bore nearly North Eall iK^ni ihe Ihijis. Before we walked into the country, ALoenoue took us to a place hard by, \\\ order to Ihew us what was prejxuing for our dinner. We here fouml Ibnie of his fervants cleaning a very line ho^, which he told us was to be baked, together with foiue taro ; anil that he hoped there wouKl he iiroifayoii^ or, great plenty. We allured him there would bt (juite fuilicient for us all, which leemed to pleafe him greatly -, and he cautioned us not to walk \oo far, as ilinner would be ready by twelve o'clock : this he explained by pointing to the fun ; after which, Abbenouc left the management of the feart to Tyheira, a', he wanted to be on board the Ihips.
Having frequently heard our people who had been on fliore fpeak of a village, called by the natives // Jappa, where a great number of jieople were commonly employed in manufacturing cloth, curi- ofny prompted me to walk to that place firll, as I found it was not more than three miles dillant, fo that I could cafiiy get back by Tyheiras dinner-time, CJi eat numbers of t!ie inhabitants crouded about u,-., when we lirll landed, but our people walking diiferent ways, jul^ as fancy or inclination led them, the natives were ilividcd into (liHf.'rent parties, and I was very little incommoded in my walk. Oiie man wa^ particularly ailiduous in rendering nie any Tittle fervices ; he not only offered to ihcw me the way to A Taopa, but to attend me the wlv/ie day, fnr a large nail : though I fully cxpeefed him to run away from me after he got his nail, which he ftipulated to receive before we let out, yet I determined to try him, and at the iamc time cndeavoureil to lecure hii fivlelity, by pro- mifing him a Matano in the evening,
The
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
The country, from the phicc where vvc landed to A Tappa, is tolerably level, and for the Ipace ol" two miles, very dry. Tlie loil here is a light red earth, and with proper ciinivation, would ]>ro- tluce excellent potatoes, or any thing that fuits a dry foil ; but at prd'ent, it is entirely covered with long coarfe grals : the inhabi- tants, I luppofe, timii'ig plenty of ground neai their habitations, more conveniently lituated for their various purpofe^;. So fur, the fpace from the beach to the f^)ot of the mountains, is about t\*o miles in breadth ; but froni hejice to A Tappa, i': grows graduidly narrower, till it terminates in a long fandy pcint, which 1 have already obferved, is the Weft extreme of Wymoa Bay,
A Tappa is a pretty large village, fituateJ behind a long row of cocoa-nut trees, which afford the iniiabitants a moll excellent Ihcl- ter from the fcorching heat of the noon-day fun. Amongll thefc cocoa-trees is a good deal of wet fwampy ground, which is well laid out in plantations of taroand fugar-cane.
I had laid my account in feeing their method of manufaiTiuring cloth J but here I was millaken ; a number of our peojjle, prompt- ed by the fame curiofity as myfelf, were got to Al'ajipa before me, where " Labour Itood i'ufpended a^ we pali'ed." The people Hocked eagerly about us •, fome alking us to repofe ourlelves under the liiady branches of trees i)lante<l about their doors ; others running to the trees for cocoa-nuts, and prefenting them to us with cvciv mark of kindnefs and good-nature; in Ihort, every inhabitant of the village \^as fully emjiloyed, either in relieving our wants, or gratifying their cuiiofity in looking at us.
Whilft a party of us werj bulled at the door of one of thefekind llrangers, 1 heaid a rattling of Hones, as if thrown v.ilh vi'.Ience ;
125
17S7.
1 iItujiv.
£1
l-\ln.
A VOYAGE TO T H F,
and at ihc llimc nionicnt a!! thciKitivcs ran away iVom us with pi\% ciiiitiuion. On turnin!?; about, I law Tyhcira coming towards us ; it iicins lie was afraid Jiat the jK^ople would be troublcfcme by Clouding about us, and < a that account he took this method ot' (hivi; g thcni av. ay. Tins was the moll convincing proof I had liiiherto fccn, of tlic very great power the Arces have over the common people. Any of the fl-ones thrown by Tyheira were at \cM\ fuiliLicnt to ha\c lamed any one they might happen to hit ; yet ;he uallvcs bore it with the moft patient fubmiflion.
Tyhciia informed us, tliat by the time we got back to our laiu!- ing-phice, dinner would be ready. For this i)iece of intelligenee, we wereob'igcd to him j but he prefently fpc'led all, by foliciting \ery earneltly i'ov a Matano : however, it was not worth wiiile to refufe him, i'o he collected fix or eight nails, which fatisfied him very well for the prefcnt.
The day being very fultry, we walked leifiu-ely back, and I ic- turned by a different path from that I hail taken, in goipg tc A Tappa. On examining the grafs, which in moft places is highcr than the knee, I found it not altogether of a rough coarfefort, bur intermixed with various forts of Howers, together with ditierenr gi-alies, of the meadow kind ; lb that I have no doubt, with proper management, ii would make excellent hay. Cy the time I got on the beach, dinner was nearly ready, and a large houfe, which Ah- benoue had for itowing away ins canoes, was aj^propriated for our reception.
During this time, Tyheira was bufily employed in collecting our people together, which having done, he ordered dmner to be ferved up. It would have excited the laughter of a tavern-cook, in no
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NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
127
fniall degree, liad he fecn our dinner brouglit in ; and I can aflfure 1787 thee, the fii;ht added greatly to n^y entertainment.
F.i
ruary.
There were no lels than four fervants concerned in this bufi- ncfs ; one brought in a huge cahdwili of water; another, a parcel ..1 cocoa-nuts ; a third, a bowl full of fine baked taro ; and the laft, udiered in by Tyheira hiiulclf, brought the hog, laid very decently on a large circular woocLn dilh. This done, the lalt man, who appeared to be the head cook, poured fome water over the hog, and rubbed it with his hands, letting us underftand, that by tliis means he fliould make excellent gravy. This part of the cere- mony wc could well have difpenfed with, but it could not be avoided, without offending our hoft ; and indeed our appetites, at this time, were not remarkably delicate ; for my own part, I eat an exceeding hearty dinnei', and I believe moft of the party fol- lowcil my example. All this time, Tyheira's attendants were ready to open cocoa-nuts for us, whenever we required to quench our third:, and in (liort, paid every attention we could Jiave expecbed, had we dined at a guinea ordinary.
I will take an opportunity of defcribing their method of cooking hereafter ; this I can tell thee, that the hog was done to a turn, as cooks phraie it : the taro much better baked than we could p<;(Ii- bly do it on board ; and the whole repart, (if v\e except the mcthocf if making gravy) was managed with a degree of decency and clean- Imefs, little to be expected in a place 'io very remote fiom civili/ed veHnements, and where nature and neceHity alone havt furnilhed ;he ulenfils for pi'cparations of this lort.
y! i
After dinner I was determ*. d to make an excii. ion in a dil- fcrent part of the counti y tj that where 1 had been in the morning ;
and
i-
i::^ A \' 0 Y A G E T () T 11 E
in?:. ar.il the vallcv nVins:; the river i".(le (Icminu; to piomirc the crreatcll- , ' " ■ wiiictv of a:iv PAft wilhhi inv I'each, I tixcd dh tliat for my at'tei- r.v o'l'i idP.ihL'.
When I ;;'.)t on the h inks of t!ie river, one of the natives \va>. j-jaddhng- backwards and fvrwards in a linall canoe, feeniingly for his a'''nifement : on t'>is it occurred to me, that a crui/e by v\atei vxouiti be an agrccal)le variety, and perhaps givemc an opportunitv of ii.'ci'V'; ]\artof tlie coimtiy on tlie opjiofitc fliore, and more efj'e- ci;il!y, :i^ on th.o fide of tlie iiill chrcetly facing me, tliere was a hi.i;1i woollen pile, feemingly of a (]ua(h'angukir form, which 1 willicd to examii'.e. A covij)le oi" nails engaged my new waterman, ar.d he took me with pkaliire for a pallengcr.
I could notjirevail on the man to kind me near the place I haxx iufl been fpeaking of ; he gave me to underlland, that the pile I wa.^ dcfu-ous to fee was a Moni/\ or place whei'c they buried their dead, ami that he dui If not cro near it.
Being (iifappointed in my expcclatitin of examining this buryin- p.kicc, I tlirected the man t j paddle lelfurely up the river, that I mi-ht ha\e an opj)ortunity of viewing the furrounding profpe.t^ which prefented thcmfelves to me, though thefe ai'e very confined, the valley being not more than a mile over, in its widell part, and narrowing gradually as you advance higher up.
The liver is not one hundred yards over, in the vvidcl]- part, but in many places much narrower ; it glides along in a fmooth {)el- lucid ftream, fcarcely pcrcci)tib!c, though this, I Ihould imagine, is not the cafe m rainy weather, as the Eaflcrii lliore is Iteep and rocky.
Tiiefe
[ U'
>! •;
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. i2(
Thcle rocks fccm to be in a great mcafuic covered with a thin 1787. ftrata of the hght red earth I liave hefore Ipoke of, and vvhicli, I |^^ doubt not, is walhed into the river beneath by every ha(W Hiovver of rain; fo tliat the water of this river is frecjuently mu;!(lv, and its llream rapid ; how far it br 1 kIics out into tlie ilJand, I cannot fay, but there is reafon to fuppofc, from the appearance of the coiui- try, that its fource is derived nearly from the center of the illand.
After wc had proceeded about half a mile up the river, my man jumped haftily out of the canoe, without giving me the leall notice, by which means it was near being upfet. I was not alarmed at this circumftar.ce, as the water was not out of my depth j but I was rather furprifed to hear Bern', Bcrrc, called aloud, by a voice vvhicli I had fome kno\\ ledge of: on lookijig round, I faw one of the natives making half ily towards us, througli the water, and the fame mo- ment recognized the man I engaged to attend me in the morning. I had milil'd him during dinner time, and not feeing him after- wards, concluded he had left me ; but it feems the Matano I had promifed him, operated fo poweifully, that he had watched my motions the whole afternoon, and now took an opportunity to remind me of his diligence in attending me, and his concern for my welfare whiltl on the water.
My waterman (if 1 may fo call the man who belonged to the canoe) now got into her, and we proceeded up the river ; he Jump- ed out only to bale the water, which, being leaky, Ihe made pixtty fart. Hy the time we had cruized about two miles up the river, the afternoon was j)retty far fpent ; this made me think of return- ing, efpecially as the valley which lies to the Welt of the river, and through which I mult pals in my way to the beach, feemed to promife a good deal of variety.
11 The
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1 li |
1: c |
V. i' |
*l
\
I'Ciirua:
A VOVAGL. TO Til!'
Tiic laiul on ihc Eafl: lulc of tlie i Ivor is here much ciilcr of ^t]^, acceli, than down at the Moral ; io that I might have taken a walk into that jxirtof the country, had time permitted. Tliis, however, not beins^ the cafe, 1 wa^ ohHged not only to relinquiili that, but alio my original intention, of tracing the river to its fource, though from what I could difcern, the paliage is not futfielently level for canoes much fa'ther up the country than where I was at prefent, and which mav be called about two miles from the fea-lide.
Having difmilled tlic canoe, I went towards a {Iraggling village, at a fmall dillance from the river ; here I met leveral of our people, who had walked up the valley amongll th'- plantations.
Some of them had been a confiderable diftance farther up, but none fo far as the river head ; they confirmed me, however, in my conjeclure, that it was not navigable for canoes more than half a mile higher up.
We learnt that this village was the ])lacc of Abbenoue's refi- dence, and were fliewn leveral houfes w Inch belonged to him ; but that he had not been on fliore lince the morning, having been all tlie day v. 1th Popote, or Captain Portlock.
There are a number of houfes fcattercd here and there all tlie way, from this village to the beach ; and as we walked leifurelv along, the Inhabitants were continually prellingus to Hop a while, and reijofe ourfelves under the trees, which generally grow about their habitations. It was evident that this was not done merely to gratify a wild impatient curiolity, but proceeded from a kindnefs and good-natured hofpltallty, which did them inhnite credit. A ]ieart-feItioy was vifibly feea in the countenance of any one whofe
houfe
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
houle we happened to flop at, and the whole family would croud about us, bringing cocoa-nuts to (juencb cur tliirll, fanning liich of us as feemed fatigued with walking, and in fliort, fcduIouHy en- deavouring to render us every kind ofHcc in their power.
The valley all the way we walked along to the beach, is entirely planted with taro J and theic plantations are laid out with a great deal of judgment.
Tlie ground is very low, and the taro grounds arc entirely cover- ed with water, and furiounded with trenches, fo that they can either be drained, or frefh watered, from t'le river at pleafure. They arc laid out in a variety of forms, according to the fancy of the different owners, whofc various ihares are marked with tlic moll fcrupulous exac^nefs : thefe ai'c interfe<?led at convenient dif- tances by raifed foot-paths, about two feet wide. I flunild obf ivo, that thefe j)lantations range entirely along the river-ndc, and tiic lioufes 1 have been fpeaking of are (ituated to the Wellward of the extreme path. The trees, which are pretty numerous about the houfes, are generally the cloth mulberry.
The houfes, and whatever elfe I faw worthy of notice, Ihall be. the fubject of a future letter ; .at prefent I Hiall dole tlie fubjecl, by obferving, that whether we regard the found judgment and (I had almoll faid Icientiric) Ikill with which thefe grounds are laid out, or the clofe attention and unremitting diligence Ihewn in theii cultivation, in either of thefe points of view, they would rcflecl credit even on a Britijh hulbandman.
By the time we got to the beach, the day was far fpcnt ; out boat was already come for us, and lay at anchor much in the fame
fituation
^31
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132
]\lnuaiv.
A VOYAGE T O T 1 1 1 :
fituatloii as in the moniliig. Great numbers of the natives were collcclcd together on the beach; many to take their leave of us, and others were very importunate for a Matano, amongfl: whom was the man I engaged to attend me in the morning : he got two nails from mc, vvitii which he was perfectly fatisfied.a poor reward, thou wilt fay, for a long, vvearifome day's attendance ! However, it ierved to remind me of thofe good old Englifh times, when the diligent labourer had the alternative of a penny, or a peck of wheat for his day's hire.
Abbenoue's people attended with their canoes, to paddle us through the furf to our boat, as in the morning, and we got fafe on board foon after fun-fet.
ih'
The pleafure I experienced during this day's excurfion, is infi- nitely fuperior to any thing of the kind I ever met with ; and if this imperfea account gives thee the leaft fatisfaaion, it will iHll heighten that of thy aflured friend,
\V. B.
Atoui, 1 litliFcb. J
LETTER
NORTII-WI'ST COAST OF AMERICA.
H
L E T T E R XXVIl.
AVINC given thee an account of my excurfion at Atoui I Ihall now return to our tranfaclions on board.
Towards the 8th of February, the weather grew clofe and fultry, attended with a good deal of lightning. In the night of the 9th, a frefli breeze fjjrung up from the Southward , and at five o'clock the next morning, we parted our fmall bower cable twenty-one fathom from the anchor.
':>:>
17R;
I'cbr
iiarv.
We ftill had a ftrong Southerly breeze, and an incj'eafing fwell, fo that any efforts to recover our anchor would have been ineffec- tual ; all that we could do at j)refcnt was to leave two or three buoys as near as we could guefs where the anchor lay, the buoy which was dreamed when we came to anchor being funk.
During the afternoon and evening of the loth, our fituation was very difagreeable : the weather was very fqually, with thunder, lightning, and heavy rain, the wind blowing llrong at South Weft and South South Weft ; fo that if neceflity had forced us to llip our cable, there was no probability of clearing the land.
In the afternoon of the i ith, the wind veered to the Weftward,
and grew more moderate, which lowered the fwell greatly. Though
tlie fea ran very high, our friend Long-flianks came off^ to us this
afternoon, bringing fomc taro along with him ; he did not fail to
I magnify
r I
K!
'}\-i
^34
A VOYAGE TO T II F.
17S7. ma;!;nii'y tliis piece of fcrvicc, and was rewarded accordingly, tliougli 1 chmuvy. ^^,^. ^^,^^.^ ^^^^j. y^jji^om roots, having luckily bought a large quantity
of taro before the bad weather came on.
The weather bcinii To cxcealiiv^lv unpromifing, it was deter- mined to leave tliis place ; fo at three o'clock in the morning of the 12th, Captain Poitlock making fignal, we weighed anchor, and made fail, llrctching to the Southward with a light breeze at North Weft.
From the 12th to the 15th, we kept plying towards Oncchow, hut were prevented from making it, by light variable winds. During this time, wc had elofe, fultry, cloudy weather.
In the forenoon of the i6th, a frefli breeze fpringing up at North Kaft, we ftood right for Oncehow ; and in the afteinoon, came to anchor in Yam Bay, in twenty-nine fathom water, over a ihndy bottom ; the extremes of the bay bore from South 20 dcg. I'^aft to North 1 5 d';g. Eaft ; the body of Orcehoura North 40 i\cg. Eaft ; and Tahoiu-a South 30 deg. Weft^, about two miles diftant from fliore.
Our grand ol))ecl: at this place was to recover the anchors which Captain Portlock left here; {o at day-break in the morning of the f7th, the boats from both Ihips were lent to fearch for them : fortunately the weather was moderate, and the fea tolerably fmooth, fo that by two o'clock in the afternoon, the King George had got both her anchors on board, which uas a moft lucky circumftance, and more efpecially, as the anchor we had left at Atoui might almoft be given over for loft.
Durinc:
NORTH-WEST COAST OF A Mi: RICA.
During tliis tim.', we were Inifily employed on board, in pur- ihnfing yani:j and water from the nativis, who hatl attended us pretty numeroully, and brouglit a good (piantity of yams, wlilch proved a \a'ry feaibnable fupply, molt of our roots being expended.
About three o'elock in tlie afternoon, the wind fliifting to the Southward, we weighed anehor, and ftretthed towards tlie North Well, intending, Ihould Southerly winds continue, to make Atoui, through the paliage by Oreehoura, and try to recover our ,i ichor; but we now had frelh reafon to fuppofe, that the wind near thelc iilands is always variable; for from the 17th to the 23d, we had light variable winds, fie(jucnt calms intervening, lb that we kept Handing to the Northward and Eaftvvard, making longer or Ihorter boards, as occafion required. Atoui generally bore about South South Eafl, and Oneehovv, South Well.
Whilll we were plying in this imcertain llate, we had an oppor- tunity of viewing the North Coafl: of Atoui, or that part of the illand dire6lly oppolite Wymoa Bay. Tiie fliore down to the wa- ter's edge, is in general mountainous, and dilTicult of acccfs : I could not fee any level ground, or the Icall lign oftliis part of the illand being inhabited, at Icail by any confulcrablc nniiibcr of peo- ple ; lb that there is every reafon to iuppoie the Soutli fide of the illand contains nearly the whole of the inhabitants.
ns
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During the 24th and 25111, wc had moderate weather, and gene- rally light winds; a frelh breeze at Eall North Eafl fometimes intervening.
In the morning of the 26th, we worked through the paflagc between Oreehoura and Atoui. At noon, the extremes of tlie
latter
136
A VOYAGE TO THE
17S7. latter ifland bore from North to North 58 deg. Eaftj and Onee- ^ '"■■'''• how Well, 8 deg. South.
In the afternoon, and the whole of the 27th, we had frefli vari- able breezes ; but the fortnoon of the 2Sth, being fine, and the wind blowing a moderate breeze from the Eaftward, we came to anchor in W'ymoa Bay, in thirty-feven fathom. water, overafandy bottom.
Our motive for coming to this place was to fearch for oui anchor, and the whale-boat w^^ immediately hoifted out for that purpofe ; but all our endeavours were ineffectual, though we had taken exact beai'ings of the place where it was loll, and the watci was tolerably fmooth : the buoys we had left were either drifted away, or llolen by the natives.
The weather during the ill of March was moderate and fine, (o that we hoped to procure a I'upply of hogs and vegetables ; but the inhabitants we found were tabooed, and nobody came near us except a fev/ of the inferior Chiefs, who brought us a fmall quan- tity of taro.
We had reafon to fuppofe, from every information we were able to procure, that the King grew tired of us, and had tabooed the people, in order to prevent any lefrclhments being brought on board the vcllcls, thinking from our frequent vilits, that we in- tended to fettle at Atoui : indeed appearances might warrant >i fuppofition of this kind. Wc had repeatedly anchored on theii coall; cruized backwards and forwards, in light of their ifland. anchored there again j and, in fhort, been long enough amongll
then
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
them to encourage a fuppoftcion, that we wifliecl to fix our abode 1787. at this dcfirable fpot. ^^•"^'^''•
If thefe motives acTiuaily induced Tiara to taboo the inhabitants, and I make no doubt but they did, it confirms' what I have ah'eady iaid, refpe(5ling his good fenfe and penetration; nay, the moll refined pohtician could not take a better method to drive away any unwelcome intruders, and whom at the lame time he could not openly quarrel with, than by Jlarvtug them out— But to return :
The wind on the 2d fliifting to the Wertward, we weighed anchor at eight o'clock in the evening, and flood out to Tea -, it was very fortunate for us that we did fo, for the next day proved very fqually, with heavy rain ; the wind nearly South Weft. At noon, Atoui bore from North North Eall to North 25 deg. Weft ; and Oneehow from North 60 deg. Well to 80 deg. Weft ; about lix leagues diftant. The afternoon proving thick and foggy, we loft fight of both illands.
The fame foggy weather continued during the 4th and 5th, with ftrong Wefterly gales of wind, and heavy rain, attended with a very heavy crofs fea : this made us judge it moft prudent to lay to, as we were not certain how the currents let, and were unwilling to ftand out far from the land.
In the morning of the ^th, wc faw Atoui, which bore from Weft to Weft South Weft; and Whahoo, South South Eaft. Towards the afternoon, the weather grew moderate, and the peo- ple were employed in getting in a new jigger-miift, tiie old one being carried away : Ibme iron woik being require*'., the armoiiier was Lufily employed about it, when a luddcn roll of the Ihip
S threw
138
A VOYAGE TO THE
1787. tlirew his I. ivil over- board. This was looked on as a very bad accident, as \vc had few toes ready made, and we knew they would be fingidarly uieful in our future traffic.
During the 6th and 7th, wc liad frefli Wefterly bree.-^es. In the morning of the 7th, Captain Dixon went on board the King George, and on his return, we fleered Eafl: South Eaft, our Cap- tains having determined, if the wind kept to the Southward and Weflward, to make Owhyhce ; but all hopes of this fort quickly vanifhed, for in the forenoon of the 8th, the wind veered to Eall North Eaft.
During the 9th and loth, we plied to windward, expefling to find the v/.nd ftill variable ; but it now feemcd fet in for a con- frant fteady trade, fo that in the forenoon of the i ith, we gave up any intention of making Owhyhee, and ftretched again to the South Weft.
Being favoured with a brifk, fteady, Eafterly breeze, early in tlic Jifternoon, we were within two miles of the North Weft fide of Whahoo. On feeing a fmall village a little to the Wcftward, we Jay to about three hours, expeding the inhabitants would bring us fomehogs and vegetables, and more efpecially, as this was a part of the ifland we had not been near before, but we had only two fmall canoes came near us, and they bringing little or nothing, at five o'clock we made fail, and ftood to the Weftward,
The extremes of Whahoo now bore from South 50 deg. Eaft, to South 35 ^\tg. Weft; diftant about three leagues. Excepting the fmall village I have juft mentioned, the North fide of Whahoo -appears to be uninhabited j neither is there any good ihelter for a
vcffJ
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
vefTcl to anchor in j the fliore is generally fteep and mountainous, 178 and in that refped a good deal refembles the North fide of Atoui.
At fevcn o'clock in the morning of the 12th, we faw Atoui, and at noon, we were within a few miles of our anchoring birth, in Wymoa Bay. The weather was very fine, with a moderate Eaft- crly breeze. We flood on under an eafy fail, expecling the natives would bring us fome rer-efhments, but not afingle canoe appeared in the bay : this fufficiently confirmed our former opinion, that the King was determined to ftarve us from the ifland. At fix o'clock, the extremes of Atoui bore from North 10 deg. Weft, to North 56 (leg. Eaft ; and the North end of Oneehow, from Weft to Weft by South.
All hopes of procuring any quantity of hogs were now given up, and the only thing we waited for, previous to the profccution of our Voyage to the Northward, was a fupply of yams from Onee- how, which entirely depended on our meeting with a ftcady Eafterly wind.
During the i3tli, we had light variable winds ; towards the evening, tiie iky grew black and lowering ; the air was exceeding clofe and fultry, and the night was almoft one continued ftorm of heavy rain, attended with violent thunder and lightning. Light airs, and intervening calms, attended us the grcateft pact of the 14th ; but about fix o'clock in the afternoon, a frcih bieczc fprung up at Eaft North Eaft, on which we hauled our wind to the Soutli- ward during the night, expecting at day-break to bear away for Oneehow ; but at fix o'clock in the morning of the 15th, the wind Ihifting to Eaft South Eaft, Captain Portlock hauled his wind, contrary to our expectation, and fteered North Eaft. At noon,
1787.
Marcii.
A VOYAGE TO THE
the extremes of Atoui bore from North to North 35 deg. Weft. During the day, we had a fine breeze at South Eaft, and clear wea- ther. Our latitude at noon was 21 deg. 29 min. North, and 159 deg. Weft longitude. At fix o'clock, the North Eaft end of Atoui bore North 42 deg. Weft, thirteen leagues diftant ; and the body of Whahoo Eaft. The breeze continued fteady all night j and in the morning of the i6th, being quite clear of all the iflands, wc fteered due North, with a brifk Southerly gale.
Thus have we left thefe iflands a fecond time, and are now ftanding for the American Coaft, on the pinnacle of expedlation. My next ftiall be an account of our paflage thither. Adieu.
Off Atoui,? jCthMarch. 5
W. B.
LETTER XXVIII.
BEFORE I proceed with my account of our paflage to the North Weft Coaft, let me fay a few words refpeding our departure from Oneehow, at a time when what we had been ftriv- ing for weeks to obtain, was apparently within our reach.
As the weather in the night of the 14th, and during the 15th of March, was moderate and clear, attended with a favourable Eafterly breeze, which would have enabled us to come to at Onee- how
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
how with ea(e ; and as a fupply of yams, which we were morally certain of procuring there, would have been highly ferviceable, it may feem ftrange that CajJtain Portlock fhould Hand to the North- ward at the moment when his every wi(h appeared eal'y to be ac- complilhed : but it Ihould be remembered, that the weather pre- vious to this time, had been very unfettled, and indeed we had ever found it fo at Oneehow ; that fhould we not meet with contrary winds, there was every probability of our being becalmed under the land, which would be attended with confequenccs ecjually dif- agreeable, as it began to be high time for us to fail to the North- ward, in order to make up, if polfible, for the deficiencies of laft feafon : however, be all this as it may, the event proved this ftep to be cctremely judicious, for the wind veering to the Southward, as I have already related, would have rendered it impracticable for us to lay at Oneehow. To return now to our Voyage.
During the former part of the 17th, we had a ftrong Southerly breeze, with frequent fliowers of rain. In the afternoon, the wind grew light and variable. The night was fcjually, attended with thunder, lightning, and conftant rain.
In the morning of the 18th, we had a heavy gale of wind at South South Eaft, with a heavy fwell, and conrtant rain. This was the firfl: fair gale we had met with liiice our Icavln;]; England. The gale continued during the day and greatell i)nrt of the night, which being very dark, we lay to, and made lail at live o'clock in the morning of the i9tli, the weather being pretty moderate. Our latitude at noon was 27 dcg. 24 min. North ; and the longitude 158 deg. 17 min. Weft.
From
141
1787.
Marcli.
r'
1787. Mnrcli.
A VOYAGE TO THE
From this to the 23(1, we had little voiiety, the whid frefli and variable, with cloudy weather. Our latitude at noon on the 22(1, was 29deg. 10 min. North ; and the longitude being the mean of feveral lets of lunar obfcrvations, 158 deg. 27 min. Weft.
On the 24th and 25111, we had frequent fqualls, att'^ndcd witli rain ; the wind Ihifting from Eaft South Eall to South South Weft } the weather thick and foggy.
The 26th was moderate. Our latitude at noon was 34 deg. 'jq min. North; and our longitude 159 deg. 30 min. Weft. Con- trary to our cxpcdlation, the fog cleared up on the 27th, and we had clear, moderate weather, with a fine Southerly breeze, which continued till the 29th, in the evening, when a frelh gale of wind came on from the Weftward, with frequent (howers of rain, and thick foggy weather. We have conftantly remarked, that South Weftei-ly winds, in thefe latitudes, viz. from 30 to 60 deg. North, never fail to bring thick fogs along with them.
In the moinlng of the 3 1 ft. the weather grew moderate. Our latitude at noon was 39 deg. 23 min. Norlh ; and the longitude 154 deg. 23 mill. Weft. Duritig the afternoon, we had light variable airs, and cloudy weather. Towards the evening we faw feveral puffins, and a young feal came along-fule, which clcaily indicated, tliat land could not be far oft': indeed when we iailcd laft to th& X.irtluvard, ai^,.;! nearly in the fame iituation, we were convinced, from fiinilar circutnftances, tliat there i.iuft be land not many len-ucs from us ; but it was our misfortune, both at tliat time, and the i)a(lnt, to have fuch thick, fog-y weather, that had ^^'c failed witliin ten mlk-s of high land, we lliould have palled it
"unrecn.
Fro:n
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
From the i ft to the 4th of April, we had little variety ; the wind generally blew frelh from South South Eaft to South >V'eft ; the weather wet and hazy. Our latitude at noon, on the 3d, waj 44 deg. 4 min. North; and the longitude 151 deg. 59 min. Weft. The nights being very dark, we generally lay to, and made fail in the morning at day- break.
On the 7th, at noon, our latitude was 47 dcg. 2 1 min. North ; and the longitude 148 deg. 39 min. Weft; we faw fevcral gulls, divers, and various other fpecies of bii'ds ; fea-weeds alfo frequently pafled us.
In the afternoon of the 8th, we had a fea-lion playing about the velfel. From the 5th to the 9th, the wind was light, and chiefly to the Northward ; but in the morning of the 9th, it fliifted to South Weft, with moderate weather, fqualls of hail and fleet fometimes intervening. Our latitude at noon, on the 12th, was 52 deg. 46 min. North ; and the longitude, being the mean of fonic lunar obfervations, 145 deg. 43 min. Weft.
From this to the 1 6th, we had little variety ; frefli variable winds and frequent fqualls of fnow and fleet intervening. We here found the variation of the compafs 19 deg. Eafterly. The weather was feverely cold,, the thermometer on the 16th being at 25 deg. which is two and half lower than it ever was during Captain Cook's laft Voyage, though he failed as far as 72 dcg. North latitude.
On the 1 6th, at noon, our latitude was 58 deg. 9 min. North ; and the longitude 149 deg. 23 min. Weft. I'lom this to the i8th, the weather was (o thick and hazy, that wc were not able to get an obfervation ; and as it was impofliblc to ice land at any dil-
lAncc,
HS
1787.
April.
': I
144
1787. April.
A VOYAGE TO THE
tance, we plied occafionally, it being uncertain how far we were from the American Coaft.
In the afternoon of the 1 8th, we liad a fudden fquall from the Wcftward ; but our fails being handed in time, we did not receive tlie Icall damage. The wind blew a frclh gale the greateft part of the niglit; but in the forenoon of the 19th, it moderated, and the weather grew clear enough for us to get a meridian altitude, which gave ^j dcg. 41 min. North latitude.
From the 20th to the 2 2d, we had thick hazy weather, with frequent fqualls, and almoft conftant fnow and fleet, the wind generally blowing frefli at South Eaft, and South South Eaft. Our latitude, by account at noon on the 22d, was 59 deg. i min. North. This made us ply with caution, as we were certain the coaft could not be far off; and the weather was fo very hazy, that we could not fee land a league from the velfel.
In the morning of the 23d, the weather grew tolerably clear. Our latitude at noon was 59 deg. 9 mm. and the longitude 147 dcg. 55 min. Weft, being the mean of two fets of lunar obfervations. At one o'clock we favv land, bearing from North Eafl: by North to W'clV, ten leagues diftant. At feven in the evening, wc perceived the land to the W'eftward to be Foot Ifland, and that to the Eafl- waid, Montague I (land ; fo that we were (landing well for the ])anhge into Prince William's Sound, which we in vain attempted to make, when laft on this coall. At fun-fet, the entrance bore North 14 deg. EaH: ; and the South Eall part of Montague inaiul North 32 dcg. Eafl, about five leagues diflant. The wind being liglit and variable, we ilretched to the Eallvvard during the night ; :)nd in the morning of the 24th, a moderate breeze fpringing up
fi'om
m
N () R Til- \: E S T C () A S T O F A M E III C A.
I J
-..■)
from tlic Wclhvard, wc fct all fali, and (lood right iii for the jjaf- '7^7-
ja;v. .\t r.oon wc v\cic i:i;i\'c \n tr.f cnti-arcc ot tiic channel. . ^_
Oiii- olifcivr.tion I'.aNc ^9 (lc;j. 47 niin. North hultude j and tlie l(>n^;;itudc wa- i^iydcj^. ^z niin. Weil.
This place is laid down in Captain Cook's general chart, in 59 dcg. 36 min. North latitude, which is eleven miles to the South- ward of our obfervation, on which account, our gentlemen were jxuticularly correct in taking their altitudes, and being favoured with a remarkably clear horizon, wore able to determine the lati- tude to a '-ertainty. This convinced Captain Dixon of the error in the chart above-mentioned, and evidently Ihewed, that the lati- tude had been fettled by angles carried on from the iun's meridian altitude at a dillance.
The land in this fituatlon bore from North 34 deg. Weft to North by Eall; Green lilands North ; diftant from the South Eaft point of Montague liland two miles. The breeze dying away in the afternoon, and there being no probability of our reaching the Sound, we ftood into a deep bay, which now opened to the Ealr- ward, and let go an anchor about five o'clock, in twenty-four fathom water, over a muddy bottom ; the extremes of the land bearing from North Well to South Weft.
flfi
I ' I
Once more arc we arrived at the bufy fcenc of aclion ; and here
I will take my leave of thee for the prefent, with a fmccrc wilh,
that we may not verify the old adage, " The mountains labour,"
&c. Thine ever,
AV. B.
MoNTAGl'E IsLAVD, 7
iSlli April. j
L E T
146
1787-
.'Xpril.
A VOYAGE TO THE
LETTER XXIX.
1^ '
). :H
I LEFT thee at the conclufion of my Inft, immediately on our coming to anchor, and I doubt not by tliis time, thou art impa- tient to be acquainted with our proceedings. As I know nothin- more difagrceablc than a ilate of fuf])ence, I will immediately cnt dcavour to relieve thee from it, in the beft maimer I can.
It feems, Captain Portlock's motive for coming to anchor, as already mentioned, was a fight of two canoes, at fome dillance up the bay, which gave him rcafon to cxpetl meeting with inhabitants, and confequently that fome bufinefs might be done j a thing we were moll particularly anxious about, as^his, our laft ibafon, was already Hipping awav.
In the evening of the 24th, five canoes came along-fide us, but brougb.t no furs, or traffic of any kind. They fainted us by ex- tending tiieir arms, and a frequent repetition of the word LaulciH> gencnlly laying a great emphafis on the latter fyllable. This we underflood as a friendly ilUutation, and returned it bv fimilar -cf- ticulations, and a repetition of the word Lcwlcivh. ' On ourtn- quiry for Notoonejhuck, which is the name they ufe for fea otter's i HI, they immediately pointed towards Prince William's Sound repeating the words " Nootka NotooncJlucK plenty, very frequcntiv,' and in the moll earned manner. Some do'^^s we had on bor !, hearing llrangers about tlic Hiip, ran upon the gun-walc, ;..! began to ba.k at them, on which the Indians directly caUul o :t " Towzcr, T-nvzer. here, here," whiilling at the Ihme time, after
the
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
tl;c manner ufcd to conx dogs in Er.ghnd. W'c were pretty nwirh \mz/.kd to aeeoiuit tor thefe circiiinl];mces, though it nppcaivd wryevi.leiit, from tiie'b people fpcakincj Ent^Iifn, andliavir.g {vAnc idea of our manners, that an EnglKli velfel either lay in the found at the prefent moment, or had been there very recently ; but none of us could guefs at the meaning of Ncrthn, though they rcj)eate.l that v'ord much oftener than any of the relV.
Thefe canoes were covered with fkins, the fitme as we had fcen laft k:i(on in Cook's River: three of them were built for two men each, and the two others helJ only a fmgle perfon.
The ears of thefe Indians w-ere ornamented with plenty of fmall blue beads, but thefe, we had reafon to fuppofe, were prociued from the Ruflians, as fomc knives and iron weapons which they flievvcd us, were evidently of Rullian manufa(5lure.
^\7
fi
Eajly in the morning of the 25th, our boats were fent on fliorc for wood and w ater, both which were very eafily procured. In the mean time, our Captains went all round the bay, and examined every adjacent creek and inlet, but found no inhabitants, nor any traces of recent habitations in this part, which made us conclude, that our vifitors were only a luintlrig party from Prince William's Sound J however, we made tliem fome trirting ])rci'ents, hoping, that it might induce them not only to bring us furs, but alfo en- courage their neighbours to follow tlicir example : they feenied l)crfettly fatisfied with the trifles we gave them, and told us, that they would return foon and bring Noiooihjl'uck, plenty.
We v^'aited till the 28th, with the greatcll: anxiety, in hopes that the Indians would return to tratle \\\x\\ us j I. t in this we were
(Liap-
S'ifa
%
I I'
uS
-April.
A \ O Y A G !•: T (> THE
difapjxMntccl, ib that it waii (Ltcrminul to leave this bay tlit [\\[\ fair wind.
At four o'clock in the morning of the 29th, a breeze f])] ingini; up at .South VVcll:, wc unmoored, and ilood out of the bay, but h.'.d Icarcely reached the channel, which leads up into the ibund, when we were becalmed, and the tide being againll: us, we were obliged to get the boats a-head, iu order to tow the vellels in again, taking caic, however, to come to as near mid-channel as was conliibent with our fafety. At ten o'clock we let go an anchor, in twenty- three fathom water, over a muddy bottom, the extremes of the bay bearing from North 40 deg. Wcfl: to South 39 dcg. Weft, a mile diftant from fhore.
The weather during the 30th, was moderate, the wind light and variable ; no Indians came near us, fo that what faint hopes we had hitherto entertained of their return, now entirely vanilhed.
This bay abounds with wild geefe and ducks, but they were fo very ihy, that we could rarely come within mufquet (hot of them. There arealfo great numbers of gulls ; Ibme eagles of the white- lieadcd fpccies, and great i)lenty of fmaller birds, of various kinds, fuch as fand-pipers, iiiipes, plovers, Sec. ^:c.
Our hooks and lines were generally over-board, but the only kind of filli we caught was a fort greatly refembling a flounder, and called by the iiiilors fand-dabs. The othei- marine produc- tions found here, are mufcles, cockles, clams, crabs, and ftar-fiih. 1 Ihould not omit, that one of our people, in fifhing wit)- '^ook and line, caught a very remarkable fubjed, which I fuppofeto be a fj)ecies of polypus : it feemed to be both of an animal and vege- table
rtir
NORTH-WEST COAST O i< AMERICA.
i-py
t.ibic lublhince, and aclhcrcd lo a fniull l\.;ich ahout tluCw- feet 1787.
Tlie wind lliU continuing light and vaiiahlc, caily in the morn- ing of t'lc irt cf May, both our Captains went in the whale-boats, una linvcy, ami C;^j;lain Portluck left onl^rs with Mr. Maeleod to v.iigh anchor daring Ills abfencc, 11 tl;e vsind jii'oved tavourable. A number of the people horn bjth ve'iel^ h..vl lil^crty gi^cu to j'ecrcatc then felves on Ihorc ; but a breeze coi^iii-g vn at bouib, Well, at eleven o'clock a figr.al was made i'm t' e peoj)ie to co:r.e on board. At two o'clock v, e unmooieil, and made fai', ihuufing up the channel towards Piincc William's vSounil. At lix o'clock, being clofc in ihore, and the wind lellening, \vc came to anciior in a bay to the Eaihvard, in twenty-one latho:n water, over a muddy bottom. At ten o'clock in the evening, our Caj)tains iCtuined ; ihey liatl met with no furs, and feen but very few Indi;ms, and _ lliofc at a conlidcrable dirtance from the place wnere we lay.
During the night wc had light variable airs ; but at tc!\ in t!ic morning of the 2d, a breeze coming on at South Weft, v. e weighed .uid made fail, Handing for tlic channel, bctv.ixt tlie C-'recn and Montague Illands. By lix o'clock in the afternoon, the Green lilands were on our larboard beam. This i)aiiage is dangerous in the night, or in bad weather, the channel nc beii'g a n^ile in tl'c broadell part free from funken rocks. In tins lit nation v e h:d Ibundings from twenty-live to fix fathom wal^r, over a landy bot- tom. Our breeze dying away, at i'evcn o'clock we let go an a;;choi-, in thirteen fathom water ; but iinding we were lituated very nc;ir a funk rock, v.e hove it up again, and a light breeze fpringing up, v.ewcre enabled to get inlo a bay \\\ Montague Iikmd. At nir.c
iUi
luM
i ^ W
o C.'u
ck
}U!
n^
I^"
iVKiv.
A V O \ A G E 1' O Til E
o'clock we ;igjiii came to, in tliiitccn fatliom water, ovci- a nui.uly l-.jttom, nioon:-,^; tho lliip with iIk kulgc and Uivani caL!c.
l.ninng the Lireaicil: prat of the 3d, tlic weather was moderate; but iii tlie iiigiit, a ilvon^ gale of wiiul came on, at North Weft, which making the vcllel ride very hca\y, and labour nuich, we un- moored iiiij) at iix o'clock in the mornmj;- of the 4th, and began to war]', towards tlie head of tlie bay. In the afternoon we came to with the belf bow ci-, in eight fathom water, and moored the vedcl with the llream cable, to a tree on fliore.
It was the intention of om- Captains, the firft fecure harbour we came into, to haul thevcd'els on Ihore, in order that their bottoms might be thoroughly fcrubbed, and a frclli coat laid on. Tiiis pLwe being peculiarly iit for the purpofe, eai\ m the morning of the 5th, the King George was hauled on iliore, and the people ^im- mediately (et to work in Jbrubbing and cleaning her bottom ; the carpenters were enij)loyed in repairing the damaged llicathing. Mean while, it not being prudent for both vellLds 10^)6 on (horc at the lame time, our peoi)le we--e hufdy emj)loyed ; fomc in clearing the hold, and over-hauling the proviflons ; others were lent on il:ore to fill water; and the coopers were employed in repairing ibmc butts, and other caiks that were faulty.
W'hiht all this bufincfs was going forward, with every exertion in our power, in c.rder that nothing might be left unattempted, nor any^opp:,rtunity loit tliat we couid poliibly lay hold of, towards iacilitatingour giandobjecl-, early in the morning of the 5th, Cap- tain ni\'on took our v.haie [>oat, together with tlie King George's long boat and ^vIk.'c boat, all w Jl manned and armed, i"n order to
trade
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
trade in the adjaceiit found, or wherever he judged it likely to meet 1787. with inhabitants. ^^'>y-
On the 6th, our cooper was employed in making fprucc hccr : as we expected tc have frequent opportunities of fuj)plying our- felvcs with this vvholefome beverage on the . nicru-an Coalh vvc brought out a ciuantity of ycaft in boltles, prepared by a Mrs. Stainlby, of London ; and it would be domg her injullice not to fay, that tl\e yeall was now found to anfwer our molt ianguine expectations, in working the fprucc, being equally good as when firll brougiit from England. The people were buiied in bringing water from ihore, and Ifowing it away in the hold, which, by this time, w\as compleatly over-hauled.
On theyih, the King George's bottom bein;r nearly roniMcatcd, we ftruck our top-malls, and got every thn.g clear for hacuiiSg our vellel on Ihore.
J51
The tide fcrving at four o'clock in the morning of the ?th, we hauled on the graving bank. At eight o'clock we begin to I'c-ape iicr, and having cleaned one '.do, we breamed hei-, paying her after- v.ards with a compofitiou of i!, tar, llu;h, and chalk, this being the belf coat we had in our p iv\er to lay on. At five in the after- noon, being nearly higli \\:Uei we fwung her, in ordor to clj:ni the other llde : we fcrajK'd it on t:;.>gth, but tlie weather proving wet and unfavonrable, ihe couui >t be compleited ; Co that what haiuLs coulu be Ipared, were fcnt ^ n Ihore to cut wojd.
Early in ilie morning of the lotli, Captain Dixon re;ui-ncd wi;h the boats. As this excurlion v/as attended with feveral interclimg
ci;cuin-
'^^h": i
A \^) V
^j
T O T : 1
V.
irK-.
ciicui:illr.i-cc?, I (;i;',ll i,ivc l;-.:'c an ncc ar.t (u 1' in ilr: Captain's
l;\V
l) \-. ouls, uj covicil honi !h.-i journal
" Till:; n:ornl;ii;, tlic ;th, I went wlt'i liij Wvo v:]\:\\\: !>o;it:;, atul tlic Ki'v; Gcv.jgo'i. Ijup, l)v)at, in oiclcr to i.'.ircli i'..;' liuilans, aiui, it podihlc, to jiurchaic ionic fars. .'' Iv ir.'.cntlon vv>is to niak.r IlincIunbroo!;c Cove firih and iVom thcr.c;' pvocwd to .^iuig Corner Cove, as I knew they were tlv iiiod likely places to n-.eet vvitii in- Jutbitants. Ca;i weather coniinrr on, a,, ei'-iit o'cl ck I tuit into a CCV2 in ?v'[onta!;uc Ilhnul ; but towards nine t/ciock, t!ie weather clcarins'; up, I p:-ofccded round tlic North Eaii end oi" the illand into a kirt'c bay : here I found ibitic Indians on a Iruntina: partv, \\ho';:-:vc me to undcrlhmd, that tiicy belonged to Cape Ilinchin- luooke. It I^inp; hue in the afternoon, I came to an anchor for the night in th.e long boat, and made the whale-boats fali, one on c.\ch fide.
" .\s the Indians did not leave us when night came on, I ordered fi.c ]ia:ids to keep watch, and the remainder to have their arms ready, lb that I might cdl them at a r.ionient's notice. The Indi- ans Iculked about us till near two o'clock, wailing, no doubt, for an opportunity to cut the boats off, but (inding us attentive to ail their motions, they then left us.
" At four o'clock in the morning of the 6th, I wcigheil, and iiood over for Cape Il'nchinbrooke, where 1 came to anchor at half ])a,1 ten. At tliis place I found feveral Indians, and purchafed a fav Ha fitter Ikins. The Indians frequently pointed towards Snug Corner Cove, ar.d enc'eavoured to make me underltand, that a vel- fe! lay ai a-ichc-r there. Though this circumltance llrongly excit- ed my curiofity, and made me particukuly anxious to know whe- ther
m-i
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
tlicr this piece of Intelligence was true, yet the day being by this time far fpcnt, I determined to keep my prefent fituation during the night, as the weather was veiy unpromifmg ; fo that our Handing for Snug Corner Cove, under fuch circumftances, would be attended with fome degree of danger and difficulty.
" A ftri61 and vigilant look-out was more neceflary this night, if poflible, than we had found it the preceding one. The Indians whom I had traded with for furs, during the afternoon, were a different tribe from that I met with in the bay at the North Eaft end of Montague Ifland : their behaviour was ve' / daring and infolent, tliough they did not dircdly attack us, and they did not leave the boats till day-light the next morning. I make no doubt but that a fight of the various articles I had brought to trade with thefe people, occafioned them to lurk about us the whole night, in hopes of obtaining a booty, but finding themfelves difappointed, they paddled away, feemingly much difcontcntcd.
*' Early in the morning of the 7th, I fet off for Snug Corner Cove ; but the wind during the whole day being very light, the long boat made little way, fo that the whale boats were obliged to take her in tow : this retarded my pafi'age fo much, that I did iiot arrive in the cove till eleven o'clock in the evening. Contrary to my expe^lation, I found no vclicl in the cove, neither did I per- ceive any of the inhabitants; notvvithftaiiding which, I ordered the fame ftrict watcli to be kcjit a? before, well rememberitig, that the Difco-vcry was boarded by the natives in this very cove, during Captain Cook's lad: \'oyage, in open day.
»53
1787.
Mav.
|ll#^i
w
ml
'^m
" Durinq: the nirjht, none of the inhabitants came near us ; but at day-light in the morning of the 8th, two Indians came along-
U lldc
^54
1787.
May,
li '
A VOYAGE TO THE
fide in .1 canoe, and gave me to underftand, that there was a fliip at no great diliancc ; at the fame time they offered to conchift mc to her for a firing of beads. Glad to accept this propofal, I wiUingly embraced their ofier, and fet off with the whale-boats, leavin"- the long boat at anchor, as I was afraid ihe would only retard my pro- grefs, and I was exceedingly anxious to know, whether there really was a veflel in this part, or that the Indians had been amufmg me with a falfe report.
*' I had not got far before the weather grew very bad, and mv guides gave me the fhp : however, I continued the fearch along fliore till twelve o'clock, by which time i had got into the entrance of a large bay, and the weather growing very fqually, witli heavy Ilorms of fnow and lleet, I thought it moll advifeablc to return to the long boat, where I arrived about three o'clock.
At half pafl fix o'clock, fix canoes came into the cove where we lay, and told me there was a fliip not f:ir off, to which they were going, and offered to fiiew me the way : the weather was then very bad, but as they were going up the inlet, and not out to fea, as my guides had done in the mornhig, I fet out with them in my own whale-boat, leaving the other whale-boat, and the long boat, in the cove.
" At ten o'clock in the evening, we arrived in the creek where the veflel I fo much wilhcd to fee lay. I foimd her to be a 'iiow. called the Nootka, from Bengal, commanded by a Captain JMeares, under Englifh colours.
" I leant from Captain Meares, that he had failed fi-om Bengal m March, J786, and that ho touched at Oonalaika in Ar.gull.
Erum
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
From tlience he proceeded to Cook's River, which he intended to make by way of the Barren Ifkinds ; but the weather at that time being thicl- and hazy, he got into Whitfuntide Bay, through which he found a pailage into Cook's River. In this ffraight he met with a party of Ruflian fottlers, who informed him, that the land to the Ealbvard of the ftralght is called by them Codiac, and that they had a fettlcment there ; likew'fe that two European velfels were tiien at anchor at Codiac, and that they had lately feen two other fliips in Cook's River. This intelligence induced him to fteer for Prince William's Sound, where he arrived the latter end of September.
" He had wintered in the creek where I now found him, and his vell'el was (till fad in »^' i. tcc The feu rvy had made iadhavock amoiigll his people, he Ji.i ing loft Ijis Seconal and Third Mates, the Surgeon, Boatf^vain, Carpenter, Cooper, Sail-maker, and a great number of the foremaft men, by that dreadful diforder ; and the remaining part of iiis crew were fo enfeebled at one time, that Captain Meares himlelf was the only perfon on board able to walk the deck.
^SS
im\
1787.
May.
K<
i
" It gave him very great pleafurc to find two veflels fo near, who could aflitl him in fome mcafure in his diftrefs ; and I had no lefs fatisfaClion in afTuring him, that hefliould be furniihed with every necclfary we could pofTibly fparc. As Captain Mcares's people were now crettin 2; better, he dcfired me not to take the trouble of fend- ing any refrcihn.ents to him, as he would come on board us very ihortly in his own boat.
"■ I left the Nootka at three o'clock in the morning of the 9th, and got to my boats about eight : at ten o'clock I weigiicd, and ilood down for our (hips, being now convinced, that there was no
profjiccl;
Wm\
156
.M.:
!■ t
A VOYAGE TO T II E
rrofpca of my meeting with any furs of confcquencc. Towards , noon it grew nearly calm, and the whale boats were obliged to take the long boat in tow.
" Whllft we were proceeding in this manner acrofs the found fomc canoes joined us, and one of the Indians had a few fea-ottcr Ikms, which he offered to fell. Happening to caft his eyes on a frymg-pan, which my people in the long boat had to drefs their viduals with, he requeued to have it in barter j accordingly it was offered him, but he abfolutely refufed to take it entire and defired us to break off the handle, which he feemed to re-ard as a thing of meffimable value, and rejeded the bottom part with con- tempt. '^
« Towards fix o'clock, the wind frefliening, the whale boats were caff off. and foon afterwards the weather grew very rou.h with conftant fnow and fleet, which occafioned the boats to fena' rate. The night was very ftormy, and 1 did not get on boaid my own veflel till four o'clock in the morning of the ,oth. ThI King George s boats arrived nearly about the fame time."
About eleven o'clock in the forenoon of the loth. Captain Meares, accompanied by Mr. Rofs. his Firft Mate, came in the own oat on board the King George, bringing feveral ba,' .ce dong with them, to exchange for various refremments, vThid they ftood greatly in need of. ' ^
From them we learnt, that the Fur-trade on tin's coift 1,-, i i carried on from diliercnt parts of the Eall Inc^: t W ^'"'^
They
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMHllICA.
They told us various ftorics rcfjiecting their fuccefs in ivctAc, but on thclc much reliance was not to be placed, as the Captain and Mate feldom agreed in their accounts : at one time, tliey had pur^.iafed two thoufand fea-otter Ikins ; at another, not more than icvcn liundred. This, however, is pretty ccitain, that they hail procured a cojifiderable quantity of valuable furs, and the(e chiefly, if not altogether, in Prince William's Sound.
It was Captain Meares's intention to have compleated his Voy- age in twelve months ; but the froll fetting in fooner than they cxpccled, had unavoidably detained them in the (bund during the winter. The great .'ofs they fullained by ficknels has already been related ; unfortunately when the remaining part of Captain Meares's crew were weak and enfeebled to the laft degree, they were greatly diftrclFed for fuel ; and for fome time it was with the greateft difficulty that they got wood on board for their daily ufe.
iS7
I"'
On our enquiring whether the fcurvy, unattended with any other complaint, had made fuch fatal havock amongft the people belong- ing to the Nootka, we were informed, that a free and unrcllrained ufe of fpirits had been indifcriminately allowed them during th» extreme cold weather, which they had drar.k to fuch excefs about Chrilbiras, that numbers of them kept their liammocks for a tort- uW..i together ; ad«i to this, their liquor was of a very pcj'niciour; knid, fo that tb.cre is rcafon to fuppofc its ctilvls, wlien drank to fuch an extreme, were not lefs fatal than the fcui'vy itfclf. Ad- mitting this to be the cafe, it furcly was ill-judged in Captain Mearcs to fufler fuch hurtful cxccfics amongll his people ; iuiil I am afraid that a fcanly I'upply of the various antifcorbutics abfb- lutely necellary for thefe voyages, put it out of their power to check, ihis cruel difoJiler, fo often fatal to fea-faring people.
hi
U
1 V)
Ahn
A V o V A r; K 1 o t n e
In tht; iu:-cnoo:) of the nth, Captain Mcarcs and Mr. Rols Mr us. I'lisy were iupplied with what flour, lugar, molalles, brandy, 6cc. we could poiiibly /pare ; and in order to i-cndcr tlieni every aiiillance in our power, Captain PortJock fparcd Ca])tain Meares two leamen, to aliiil in carrying his vellel to Sandwich ]liand.;, where he propoLJ. going as lljon as the weather pcrniitteth
We now were no longer at a lofs to know what the Indians we faw in t!ie fiilt bay meant by pointing towards Prince \Villiam'.s Sound, and repeating the word A^cothi ; neitiier did w^e any longer wondci- ai their coaxing our dogs, and fpeaking EngUfli, as they arc exceedingly articulate in their pronunciation, and one of them it Cecmb. had been on boaid the Nootka fevcral weeks. But to re- turn to our bulincfs on board.
Towards noon on the loth, the weather growing pretty mode- rate, we compleated our bottom, and in the afternoon, hove to our moorings. V/e were bufied on the i jth in llowing the liold, and getting in wood and water. Tlie armourers of both fliips had a tent on ihore, and were bufdy employed in making toes, our an\il being loll ; we likewifc got in about a ton of Hones for ballad-, f-ayed uj; our top-mafts, and fet up the rigging. The i 2th was ta,. n up in compleatuig our water, and getting every thing ready for fea.
Here I Hiall leave thee for the prefcnt. Happy fliall I be to fend thee a moi-e favourable account of our good fortune in my next, than I Iiaxe been hitherto able to do. Thine affurediy,
May 13th. \
LETTER
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
LETTER XXX.
b'9
.787. May .
OUR lail feafon on the coaft being now advancing very fall:, a ft'paration was agreed on as the moft likely means of pro- moting our fuccers for the remaining part of the year ; accordin;^^ly, it was determined to fend Captain Portlock's long boat, under the direction of xMcffrs. Ilayward and Hill, to trade in Cook's River. The Kiiig Geoige was to ftay in Prince William's Sound, till the boat's return, and our velfel v/as to fail for King George's Sound, at the (a-n-e tim.', keeping well in wit!i the coall, that no opportunity of collecting Furs might be loft : this dillribution of ourfclves, thou wilt perhaps iay, was judicious ; and indeed it was high time for us to rtrain every lorvc ; f )r what with finding ourfc' /es anti- cipated at this pi ice, anci the great pro[\ability of being ferved the lame at King George's Sound, o'.ir bell profpecls were far from
r.leafing.
In the afte'-noonof the 12th of May, Mellrs. Ilayward and Hill ilt out in the long boat for Cook's River, taking with t'l^ni a pro- per ailbrtnunt of articles neccH'ary for trading with tlic natives, ^oon after tliey wcic gone, tv/o canoes came along-fide'us-, one of them wi^h eiglit people in her, the other three, but brou;:,ht no- thing; however, they promiled to come next day, with plenty of trade, accompanied by their Cliief.
The morning of the i -^th was fine and clear, but the wind being light and variable, and there being a poJjiblUty of the India'-! s re- turning,
\h i'
inii
I \\ ill
i
tbO
I/O/--
A VOYAGE TO THE
turning, five of our people were font, wirli the BoatiVaiii in the , whale boat, on a {idling party, liaving orders not to \ Ac <ight ol' the Ihip^, and others had liberty to recreate theinlelvcs on fliore.
About one o'clock, we had the pleafure of feeing two large canoes, and fevcral fmail ones, full of Indians, come round the North Eaft point of the bay. When they came in fight of the veilels, they began to fing, kee])ing regular time with the ftrokes of their paddles in the water : their finging feemed to be in a great meafure direded by the Chief, and the cadence was not without fome degree of harmony.
Wlien they came along-fide the King George, they were profufe in their friendly falutations ; at the fame time their Chief, whofe name was SlMinicay, ihewed a letter for Captain Portlock, which came, he faid, from the NootLi, on which he was admitted on board, togetiier with a number of his people.
It feems the hunting party wc faw at our firlt coming in, on the 24th of April, belonged to old Shanway's tribe j thele people lived near Snug Corner Cove, and on their return had accjuainted Caji- tain Meares, that they had feen two Ihips at anchor a great dif- tance down the channel ; on which he immediately wrote the above-mentioned letter, without knowing whom ])articularly to addrefs it to, aiui g.ive it to the Indians, who promifed to return I ack to us immediately ; but thcfe trully mcilengers never found then- way till n(;v.-, wiicn the letter was of no confequence.
Captain Port'ock's motive for admitting .S'/v/vtcv/v's people on
board, vr.ii. from a fuppoHtion that fuch an induigence would en-
CvHii-jge them to trat!.' inorc iV.dy ; but to his great mortification,
- he
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
i6i
he foon found that traffic did not induce tlKm to conic near hiin, v.'hat little trade they hrouglit being mere refule, arid that t!ieir bringing the letter now was only for an Gi)pcrturiity to get o". board, in order to fteal every thing \vhic!i lay in their way. I eould lee moll of their tianfa^Stions from our quarler-derl:, aPid mull fay, they were managed with a good deal of ;ui. Shanway, ar,d fomc of his attendants endeavoured to a^nufc the King Geoige's people with ilnging and dancing, vvhilll: others traverfed the decks, and threw every tiling which came in their way to their con^.pa- nions in the canoes. Captain Portlock was preftntly aware of his guclls thievifli difpofition ; but being unwilling to drive them away by force, he ftationcd his people in different parts of the vef- fel to watch their motions : notwithllandlng this precaution, they flole a number of articles, and got them unpcrceived into their canoes. Whenever they were detected in a theft, they relinquilli- ed their booty with the utmoft unconcern ; but when any thing was once in their poflelfion, it was v/ith difficulty they weic pre- vailed on to reftore it. At firft, the only articles they attempted lo Heal, were iron and cloaths ; but finding rhemfelves watched, they became indifcriminate plunderers, and feized on every thing in their power.
Having fatisfied their curlofity, and found their de[)rcdations p;n a flop to, old Shanway and his \ oop'.* lcl"t us about live in the afternoon. Our whale-boat, at this in) •, lay at anchor about two miles diftant from the veliels, the pcopl in her bufy filhing, v/hich the Indians happening to fee, as they p .;ul!cd OMt of the hay, they directly made up to them, '.his alarn= 1 Captain Portlock, ^^]lo all alontr had been attentive to Shanwav s motions, and he imme- diately manned his whale-boat and yawl, and went cff to our peo pie's aliiflance, being apprehenfivc not oraly for the boa';, but that
X their
l62
17^7- May.
A VOYAGE TO THE
their lives would be in clanger, as the Indians were well armed with knives and i'pcars : our yawl was alio difpatched to affill:, ifnecef- fary ; and Captain Dixon, at the fame moment, fired a fwivel, the report of which, we could fee, alarmed the Indians, who immedi- ately paddled off with precipitation.
When our ])cople came on board, we found our fears for their Hifety v/ere not groundlefs. The Indians had attempted to Ileal their anchor, and had actually taken fcveral of their fi(hini--lines ; nay, one of them attempted to run his fpcar through a young fel- low, becaufc he rcfufed to give up his line, but was prevented by Shanway, who, fortunately for the people, was, it feems, of a pacific difpofition, and contented himfelf with plundering in quiCt.
Thefc were fufiicient cautions to us in future, not to trufl: any Indians, even to come on board : indeed Captain Meares bad in- formed us, thataihip from China had a quarrel with the inhabi- tants of King George's Sound, in which fevcral of tlie Indians loP: their lives ; and that tlie natives afterv/ards traded witii as much unconcern as if nothing liad happened.
Our filhing party had tolerable fucccfs ; they caught a large quantity of fand-dabs, and a few rock-iiih.
The birds and marine produ.Tiions licre arc mucli the fame as in the firll: bay we anchored in ) and it is probable there may be fal - mon fartlier on in the feafon, when tlic heat of the llm, by melt- ing the fnow, caufes frcih water rivuK.ts ; but at tins time, it had fcarcely made any imj)relIion on that dreary element ; and the fur- rounding profpect teemed with all the liorrors of winter. The
night-
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMKRlC \.
iiiglit-tidcs How here imich higher tliaii in tlic (lay-tii^ic, thr.uc;h I cannot lay, with any degree of certainty, h w liigh they rid-.
We now waited with an anxiety bordering on impatience, lor a fair wind to carry us from this phice, and a Ii:;ht breeze ipriiu.,.;- uj) at South I'lall, at four o'ci civ in the morning of th.c i |tli, we weiglicd anchor and Itood out of the bay. Towards no,)n, the wind veered to South Well, wliich was ciuitc favourable for our Handing up tlie channel into I'rince William's Sound. By noon, we had the Tsorth pc/mt of Montague Lland in figiit, bearing Nortli Ealt : our obiervation gave 60 dc^. 23 min. North latitude ; ;uid v>e found the variation of the compafs 29 deg. 40 min. Eail- erly.
In the afternoon, the breeze frefliening, Captain Dixon went on board the King George, to take leave of Captain Portlock, as wc were drawing near the place where it was agreed for us to feparate. At ieven o'clock he returned on board, and we hoilicd in our boats, j)arting company with our colours flying, and three heanj cheers. Captain Portlock ilcered for Ilinehinbrooke Cove, and we kept Uanding for the j:)anage between Cape Hinchinbrooke and Mon- tague 1 lland. Daring the night we had the wind at North Wefl, lull blowing a moderate breeze.
At four o'clock in the morning of the 15th, Cape irmclun- brooke bore North Weft half ^Veft, about eight leagues diuant, and the land to the Northward North 35 deg, l-^aft ; tlie extremes of Montague Illand bore from South ^^ ilc^. V. c[\,to Well Nr)rtli Weft. We foimdcd in thirty five fathom water, over a faiuly bot- tom. At eight. Cape Hincliinbrooke bore Nortli 63 dcg. V\'eft. During the former part of the day, tlie wind lelicui-d, and at ncou
wc
163
17S7. .M. > .
il; I
k i>l
';■!■
;;i
164
A VOYAGE TO THE
we had light /arlable nirs. Great nmrbers of whales were feen in rJmofi: every dli-eftion, but particalarly towards the land. Our ineridlan aliirude gave 59 dcg. 48 niin. North latitude. Cape ninchinbrooke bore North 65 deg. Weft, about twelve leagues cliltaat, and the South Weft point of Montague Ifland South 63 dcg. Weft.
At feven in the afternoon we Haw Kaye's Tlland, which bore North 40 dcg. Eaft ; we ftill had light airs, with intervening calms. Our hititude on the i6th, at noon, was 59 deg. 28 min. North ; and the longitude 145 dcg. 20 min. Weft. Kaye's Ifland bore North 12 deg. Eaft. We had fcnnidings from fifty to eighty fathom water, over a muddy bottom. In the evening, the wind fliitiing to the Eaftward, we tacked at ten o'clock, and ftretched t» the Southwaid during the night. We ibunded at midnight, with a line of 140 fathom, but found no bottom.
During the 17th and iSth, we had light variable winds, with intervening calms ; tlu^ weather tolerably fine. In the afternoon of the iSth, we faw Mount St. Elias, which at eight o'clock bore North 29 dcg. Eaft ; and the South point of Kaye's Ifland Weih
In the afternoon of the 19th a ftrong breeze came on at Eaft North Eaft, and a heavy fwell fet in from the Southward. This occafioned us to double-reef the top-fails ; but towards evening, tile weatlier grew moderate.
The greateft part of the 20th, wc had light baflhng winds, with fre<juent cahns ; our latitude at noon was 59 deg. 9 nun. North ; and our longitude 143 dcg. 34 min. Weft. Mount .St, Elias bore North by Eaft. At eight o'clock in the evening, a breeze luckily
li)rung
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 165
fprung up from the W'eftward, attended with clear weather, which 1787. enabled us again to ftand in for the coaft, which in this fi^uation J^^i^ trendy nearly Eaft and Weft.
The weather in ti\c forenoon of the 21ft was thick and hazy ; the wind Ihll blowing .1 moderate Wefterly breeze. Oar obfcrva- tion at noon gave 59 deg. 21 min. North latitude ; and longitude 141 deg. 34 nnn Welt. /\t eight in the evening we hauled our wind to the ^s'orlh\vard, on feeing a low point of land, which bore North 40 deg. l.-ul ; and the extremes of the land in fight bore from North 32 deg. Weft, to North 76 deg. Eaft, about four miles diftant. It not being prudent to ftand for the Ihore during the night, at nine o'clock we tacked, and ftretched to the Southward. On founding, we had fixty fathom water, over a muddy bottom.
Early in the morning of the 2 2d, we tacked and ftood to the Northward, but unfortunately had light variable airs, and thick hazy weather; however, at nine o'clock we faw land bearing from North Weft by North to Eaft North Eaft ; and there being every appearance of an inlet, Captain Dixon determined to examine it, as there was a probability of finding inhabitants, and confequently fomc trade might be expedled.
Light airs, and intervening calms the whole day, prevented our getting in with the land ; the weather at the lame time being tiiick and hazy. We luul foundings from Icveniy to eighty-five fathom . water, over a muddy bottom.
At half paft two o'clock in the morning of the 23d, a light breeze ip! uiging up tiom the I'laftvvaiti, we ftood in for tlie Wclt- crmolV point of land, winch was tlien about five miles diftant. At
four
kl
166
I7S7. .Vhu.
I' '
A \' O Y AGE TO T II i:
four o'clock, being wiihui two miles of ihore, we founded in forty- two fathom water, over a bottom of fbft mud. The morning proving vci-y thicl: and hazy, at (ix o'clock the whale-boat was lioilkd out. and Mr. Turr.er, our Second Mate, fent into a bay, wlilch bore North Nortli Eaft, to look for anchoring ground. Soon after the boat was gone, we perceived a iingic canoe with one perfon in her, v,ho feemed to befilhingat the entrance of the bay. We were greatly elated with this fight, as there was now a certainty of finding inhabitants in the adjacent harbour.
At eight o'clock Mr. Turner returned, and reported that lie had found an excellent harbour, and Icen a number of inhabitants. The breeze dying away, our yawl was hoiiledout, and fent a-head with tlie whale boat, in order to tow the vellel into the bay ; but by ten o'clock we found that all our towing was to no j)urpc(e, the tide running ilrongly againfl us. On tliis we immediately began to warp up the bay, but this got us a-head very llowly, as we had from forty-five to fifty fathom v^■ater, and as wc advanced larther into the bay, our foundings increafed.
The fituatlon Mr. Turner had pitched on for us to anchor in, was round a low point to the Northward, about three miles up the bay ; but finding Ir impradicable to get there by day-light, though every pofiible exertion was made to eifea it, wc came to at eidu o'clock, with the fmall bower, in-fixty-five fathom water, muddy bottom.
over a
Our profpcas now feem to brighten. Thou mayefl depend on hnvmg an accou;,t of our fuccefs at this place the earlicit oppor- tunity. Thine, 6cc.
I'ORT
241!
■ir.CiRAVE, 1
>Aiay. \
\\. B.
LET
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
167
LETTER XXXI.
1787.
May.
T
HE
extremes of the bay we came to anchor in, the evening of the 23d of May, bore from Weft to North 42 deg. Weft j and the pohit round which our intended harbour lay. North 20 deg. Eall ; our dillancc from the fliore lefs than a mile. Dunn^x the time we were warping into the bay, feveral canoes came along- lide us. We accofted the peo])le with lome of thr> words in ufc amongft the natives of Prince WiUiam's Sound, but they had not the Icaft idea of their meaning : indeed it was pretty evident at iiril: fight, tiiat thefe people were a different nation, from the con- ftruction of their canoes, which were ahogethcr of wood, neatly finiflied, and in (Ivape not very much unlike our whale-boats.
To the Southward of our prefcnt fituation was a narrow creek, which appeared to lead a great dillance into the country, and widened as it advanced in fiiorc.
ill
Early in tlic morning of the 24th, we faw a number of the na- tives on the beach, n^-ar the entrance of this creek, making fignais for us to come on liiore : a fmoke was alfo i'c^n, v.'hich proccedeil from behind foiTie pines, at a fmall cUllance round the point. On this Captain Dixon went in the whale-boat to llirvey rhe place, thinking it probable, from thefe circumllances, that the Inchan.s chiefly refided here ; and iiiould there be convenient anchorage, the fituation would be a more eli'j;ible one tlian that found out by x\Tr. lunur. lie found a number of inliabitants, aiul two or tlice temporary hutS) but the entrance into the creek was too Ihalluw
to
i&S.
li,.
A VOYAGE TO THE
to ailmlt our vcflcl ; fo at eight o'clock, having a freOi Eartcrlv breeze, we weighed anchor, and begnn to ply into the harbour tci the Nortiivvard. At two o'clock we came to anclior in eight fa- thom water, over a bottoili of Toft mud, within pillol ihot of the fliore, and very near two large Indian huts.
We were now comj^leatly land-locked, being entirely furrounded by low flat i (lands, where fcarcely any fiiow could be feen, and well llieltercd from any wind or weather whatever.
The people fecmed veiy wellpleafed at our arrival, and a number of them])rcientlycamealong-rideus. Thcyfoon undcrrtoodwhat \vc wantcil, and an old man brought us eight or ten cxcel'ent fea otter Ikins. This circumlfance, together with our having as yet feen no beads, or other ornaments, or any iron implements, gave us reafon to conclude, that no trading party had ever been hei-e, and conie- quently that we ihouldreap a plentiful harve(f ; but our conjec- tures on this head were built onafandy foundation j for on a fur- ther acquaintance with our neighbours, they Hiewed us plenty of beads, and the fame kind of knives and fpears we had iccn in Prince William's Sound j and as a melancholy proof that we only glean- ed after more fortunate traders, what furs they brought to felt, Qxclufive of the fmall quantity] urt mentioned, were of a very infe-' jfor K:nd.
From the 25th of May to the ift of June, our trade was incon- fiderable : we weic frequently vifited by the people who lived in the creek I jufl: now Ipoke of, but they belonged ^o the fame tnlie witn our neighbours, and poliedbd very few furs of any confc ^^uence.
1 lia\e
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
I have already obferved, that we were furrounded by a number of fmall iflands ; thefc forming various creeks and harbours, Cap- tain Dixon propofed furveying the whole, hoping that fo extenfive a foimd as this appeared to be, contained a much greater number of inhabitants than we had hitherto lecn j but as yet the weather had been fo thick and hazy, attended with conftant rain, that this defign was frullrated. However, the morning of the ill of June proving tolerably clear, he went in the whale-boat at ten o'clock, in order to examine the adjacent harbours, taking with him one of the Indians who had frequently been on board, and who was a tole- rably intelligent fellow, as a guide.
169
1787.
June,
At five in the afternoon, Captain Dixon returned from his fur- vcy, which had by no means anfvvered his expectations. He had found fcveral huts fcattered here and there, in various parts of the found, but they were moftly inhabited by people whom we had already fccn ; and there was not a finglc Ikin of any value amongfl: them : indeed our fuccefs at this place fell greatly fliort of what we had rcafon to expect, from its promifmg lituation, and the firft api)earance of inhabitants ; but this poverty was not to be difco- vered on a fudden, for though the whole that we purchafed here confiftcd only of about fixtcen good fea otter Ikins, two fine cloaks of theearlels marmot, a few racoons, and a parcel of very inferior pieces and flips of beaver, fufhcient to fill cue f.iiglc puncheon ; yet it was not till the 3d of June, (ten days from the time of our com- ing into the harbour) that we fomid the natives fcanty flock of furs not only cxhaullcd, but that tlicy had Ibippcd thcmfclves almoft naked, to fpin out their trade as far as pofliblc. This tedious de- lay was occafioned by the flow, deliberate manner in which thefe people conduct their traffic. Four or fix people come aIor,g-fide in a canoe, and v/ait periiaps an hour before tliey give the Icall inti-
^' matiou
t I
170
A VOYAGE TO THE
1-87.
[vine.
VI !
mat'ion of having any thing to fell ; they then, by fignificant flirugs and gcilures, hint at having brought fomething valuable to difj)ole of, and wi(h to fee what will be given in exchange, even before their commodity is expofed to view, for they are particularly care- ful in concealing every thing they bring to fell. Should this ma- noeuvre not fucceed, after much deliberation, their cargo is pro- duced, and generally confifts of a few trifling pieces of old fea otter Ikins, and even then, a confiderable time is taken up before the bargain is concluded ; fo that a whole day would frequently be fpent in picking up a few trifles. Such, however, was ourprefent fituation, in regard to trade, that we patiently fubmitted to the tantalizing method of thcfe people, in hopes that fomething better might ponibly be brought us ; but finding they were fl:ripped al- moll: naked, and not the moft diftant probability of any better fuc- ccfs, Captain Dixon determined to leave this place the firfl: oppor- tunity.
I fliall now endeavour to give thee fome account of this place, and its inhabitants. As there is good reafon to fuppofe that wo were the fiift difcovercrs of this harbour. Captain Dixon named it Port Mulgrave, in honour of the Right Honourable Lord Mul- grave. Our anchoring place is fituatcd in 59 dcg. 32 min. North latitude, and 140 deg. Weft longitude. How extenlive the found is, I cannot fay ; it contains a number of finall low illands, but at intervals, wiicn the fog cleared up, we could difcern high moun- tainous land, to tlie Northward and Weftvvard, at about ten leagues diftant, eiitlrcly covered with fnov, and which we judged to be part of the coiitincnt. Thcfe illands, in common with the reft of the coaft, are entirely covered with pines, of two or three different fpecies, intcnnixcd here and there with v*'itch hazle, ai:d various Kinds of brulli-wood.
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Shrubs of dlftcrcnt forts appeared to be fi)ringing up, but tiicir vegetation was not fufficiently advanced for us to dillinguiih what they were ; yet the weather was tolerably mild, the mean of, the thermometer being 46 deg.
We found fomc wild geefe and ducks here, and though not near fo numerous as at Montague Illand, yet they v/cre moreeafdy come at. Captain Dixon frequently went on fliorc, to take the divcrfion of (hooting, and feldom returned without fome game, which not only proved an excellent treat for us, but at the fame time gave the Indians fuch an idea of fire-arms, that their behaviour was per- fe6lly quiet and inoffenfive, and they never attempted to mo- led us.
The number of inhabitants contained in the whole found, as near as I couUl calculate, amounted to about feventy, including women and children ; they in general arc about the middle lize, their limbs ftraight and well (haped, but like the lelt of the inha- bitants we have i'cen on the coaft, are particularly fond of painting their faces with a variety of colours, fo that it is no eafy matter to dilcover their real complexion ; however, we prevailed on one wo- man, by pcrfuafion, and a trifling prefent, to wafli her face and hands, and the alteration it made in. her ap|;earanceabfolutely fur- prifed us ; her countenance had all the chearful glow of an Eng- liih milk-maid ; and the healthy red wliicli llii(hed lier cheek, was even beautifully contralled with the whitencfs of her neck j her eyes were black and fparkling ; her eye-brows the fame colour, and moll bcautiiuUy arched ; her forehead fo remark il'Iy clear, that the transflucent veins were feen meandering even in their minuteil branches— in Ihort, Ihe was what would be reckoned handf.mie even in England: but this fymmetry of features is entirely dc-
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A VOYAGE TO THE
ftroyed by a cuftom extremely fingular, and what we had never met with before, neither do I recollect having fccn it mentioned by any \\)vnirers whatever.
An aperture is made in the thick part of the under Hp, and in- creafed by degrees in a line parallel with the mouth, :ind equally long : in this aperture, a j/icce of wood is conftantly wore, of an cliptical form, about half an inch thick , the Aiperficies not flat, but hollowed out on each iule like a fpoon. though not quite fo deep ; the edges are likcwife hollowed in the form of a pully, in order to fix this precious ornament more firmly in the iij), wiiich by this means u frequently extended at leall three inches horizon- tally, and coafequenily vUllorts every feature in the lower part of the face. Tlils curious piece of wood is wore only by the women, and feems to be oonfiderccl as a mark of^ diilinclion, it not being wore by all indifcriininatcly, but only thole who appeared in a hi- perior llation to the reft.
The language here is different from that of Prince William's Sound, or Cook's River ; it appears barbarous, uncoudi, ana ilif- ficult to pronounce: they frequent. y ufcd the woid yim ecu, whith fignihes a Friend, or Chief, and their numerals reckon to ten ; but I was not able to procure any farther fpecimen of their language, as they arc very dole and uncommunicative in their ditpolitions.
Their habitations are the moft wretched hovels that can polli'i!) be conceived ; a few poles Ituck in the ground, without order oi regularity, enclofcd and covered with loofe boards, conltitute an Indian hut, and (o little care is taken in their conttiuction, that they are quite infufficient to keep out the Ihow or rain : the nume- rous
NORTH-WEST COAST OP AMERICA.
rous chinks and crannies ferve, however, to let out the fmoke, no 1787. particular aperture b;:ing left for that purpofe. J"""-'-
The infule of tlisfc dwellings exhibits a complcat piclure of dirt and iilth, indolence and lazinefs ; m one cojner arc thrown the bones, and remaining fragments of vi(5luals left at tlieir meals ; in another are heaps of filh, pieces of Itinking fledi, greafc, oil, 6cc. in iliort, the whole fervcl to ihew us, in how wretched a rtate it is poifible for human bcinfj". to cxiil ; and yet thcfe people ap[)car con- tented wirh their fituuiion, aiid probably enjoy a much greater portion »>f h.ippinels and tranquillity, than is to be found under the gilu;d roofs of the moil deipocic monarch.
'Tis probable, tiiat the chief reafon why thefe Indians take no greater pilns in the irructure of their habitations is, that tiieir fituarii'ii IS merely tempjrary : no fooner does the mailer of a tribe tind game bc;.in to -;ruw fcarce, ov filh not i'o plentiful as lie expected, iliMi \v: takes duwn his hut, pu:s the boards into his can-.'C, .iT.d paddles away to kek out t'ov a ipot better adapted to his varii-u.'. puipof.;s, wh'.cii, having found, he prefently erects liis. dwellii^g in the lainc caie.eiefs manner as before.
I heforetook notice, that tiicir linall canoes were neatly finillicd ; the very reverie is the cafe with tlieir large ones ; they are made entirely of one Ivge tree, rudely excavated and reduced to no par- ticular diape, but each end has the releniblance of a butcher's tray, and generally arc large enough to hold tA-elve or fourteen }>eople. Wliiilt we lay here, theie people fu]),)lied us very plcniifully with halibut, which we bought of tuem for beads and Ihiall toes. 1 he
place
* (^nc of thcfc was brouglit home by dptalii Di\on, uaJ is now la tlu- iiolUili '.■.''. •f Sir Jui4)!i Baiiks.
A VOYAGE TO T II E
place where thefc halibut were caught, is in tl\c offing round the point of hind we tirft made in tlie morning of the 23d of May, Our whale-boat was one day fent with (cvt^n hands to this place, on a fiihing party ; but their fuccefs was greatly inferior to th;it of tiio Indians, who were fiihing at the fame time, which is rathei extraordinary, if we coulider the apparenv iiiferiority of their tackle to oiu's. Their hook is a large fimple piece of wood, the ihank at lead half an inch in d-.ameter ; that j)art which turns up, and which forp'S an acute angle, is confulerably fmaller, and brought gradu- ally to a point : a flat piece of wood, about fix inches long, and near two inches wide, is neatly laflied to the Ihank, on the back of which is rudely carved the reprelentation of an human face.
I cannot think that this was altogether defigned as an ornament- to their hooks, but that it has fome religious alhhion, and pofiihly is intended as a kind of Deity, to enl'ure their fuccefs in fifliing, wliich is conduced in a fingular mamier. They bait their hook with a kind of fiOi, lied by the i'aWov s J>/!a\/s, and having lunk it to the bottom, they hx a bladder to the end of the line as a buoy, and Ihould that not watch fufhcier.tly, they add another. '1 heir lines are very ftrong, being made of the finews or intefl:ines of ani- mals.
One man is fufficicnt to look after five or fix of thcfe buoys, w -en he perceives a lifh bite, he is in no great liurry to haul jip hi, line, but gives himti'r.c to be well hooked ; and when he has haul- ed the fiHi v.p to the fi:rta':e of the water, he knocks him on the head uit'i a ill -.rf club, p-o\idcJ f;)r that j)urpoie, and afterwanls flows his prize away at lus Icifure: this is done to prevent the hal:.)ui (which fomelimes are very large) from damaging, or pc- ha)is upfening his canre in th-ir dying llruggles. Thus were wc - fairly
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
fairly beat at our own weapons, and the natives conflantly bring- ing us plenty of filh, our boat was never fent on this bufnicfs after- wards.
They drefs their vi6luals by putting heated ftones into a kind of wicker balket, amonglt pieces ot liih, feal, poipoife, &c. and co- vered up clofe ; fometimes they make broth and firti foup by the fame method, which they always preferred to boihng, though we gave them fome brafs pans, and pointed out the mode of ufmg them.
The Indians are particularly fond of chewing a plant, which ap- pears to be a fpecies of tobacco ; not content, however, with chew- ing it in its funple ftate, they generally mix lime along with it, and fometimes the inner rind of the pine-tree, together widi a rofmous fiibHancc cxtiacled iVom it.
VvHien we came into this harbou'-, on the 23d of May, our at- tention was a good deal engaged by tlic light of a nu;nb.'r of white rails, on a level piece of gruuad, not far from the creek which I have already oblerved was lituatcd to the Soutliward of us. Tlicfc rails were about a mile arid iialf from the velfel, and ap[>carc(!, at that diitance, to be conftruded with fucli (irdcr and regularity, tliat we coiicKulcd tlicni beyond the ixnich of Indian conti-iv-uice, niivl confequei\:!y that they wciv crcdcd by Tome tl^•HL^.d nation. Captain Dixon, willing to be fati .^cd in this particular, took ail oppojtunity of gc/ir.g to the fpot, onci to his great i''.ir[)iize, fvvand It to be a kind of burying-placc, if I may be allowed to call that fo, where dead bodies arc not dcpofited in the earth. Twc manner in vvlilch they difpole of their dead is very remarkable : they fcparat.; the head from tin. body, and wrapping them in lius,
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the head is put into a fquare box, the body in a kind of oblong cheft. At each end of the cheft which contains the body, a thick l^ole, about ten feet long, is drove into the earth in a (lanting po- fition, fo that the upper eivU meet together, and are very firmly laflicd with a kind of rope prepared for the purpofe.
About two feet from the top of this arch, a fmall piece of tim- ber goes acrofs, and is very neatly fitted to each pole : on this piece of timber the box which contains the head is fixed, and very ftrongly fecured with rope ; the box is frequently decorated with two or three rows of fmall fliells, and fometimes teeth, which are let into the wood with great neatnefs and ingenuity ; and as an additional ornament, is painted with a variety of colours j but the poles are uniformly painted white. Sometimes thefe poles are fixed upright in the earth, and on each fide the body, but the head is always fe- cured in the pofition already defcribed.
What ceremony is ufed by thefe people, in depofiting their dead in this manner; we never could learn, as nothing of the kind hap- pened during our flay in the harbour.
Befides the fkins I have mentioned already, wc purchafed a few bears, and fome land beaver ; but I rather think, that tlie marmot cloaks were procured by thefe people fron^ fome neighbour!!
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Toes were the article of trade held in the firfl eflimation here, and next to thtle, pewter bafons were beft liked.
Beads ferved to purchafe pieces of fkins that were of little value ; but the deep blue, and fmall green, were the only forts that won hi
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
be taken in barter: indeed our traffic at this place was fo very clr- cumfcribed, that there was not the leaft occafion to Ihew the people any great variety of articles, as it only ferved to diftra6t them in tlicir choice, and made their flow method of trading dill more te- dious.
I have now given thee fuch an account of this place, and its inha- bitants, as my obfervations from time to time furniflied me with : thou art not to expect them methodical, or well digclled ; liowevcr, the perufal may ferve thee for a momentary amufement, and I per- haps may have an opportunity of adding a kind of fuppleraent pre- vious to our leaving the coaft. We are now getting ready for fta. Adieu.
W. B,
Port Mulgrave, \ 3cl June. J
LETTER XXXII.
June.
!
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^I^IIERE being no farther profpc6]: of any trade in Port Mul- X grave, Captain Di-tva d tcnrincd to leave it the fir{lo])por' tunity ; and a bicezc at : •.nth Kail Ipnnging up at four o'clock in :he morning of t'lK 4ihof June, we carried a Imall anchor a-head, and warped out of the harbour. At eight we made fail, and flood out of the found. At noon, the South point of the cnti'ance into Port Mulgrave bore South Ea(l, and the North jiolnt North S^ 'leg. Weil ; the Southern blurt' about ftve miles diiuint.
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178
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A VOYAGE TO T II E
During this afternoor., and tlic whole of the 5th, we had hght variable wnids, with cahns by turns.
In tlic movring of the 6th, the land in fight bore from North 78 deg. Weir, to No. th 50 cleg. V.a'.l -, and the Well point of the bay we had left North 10 deg. Well, about five leagues dillant. Our obfu-valion at noon gave 59 deg. 13 mm. North latitude; and the longitu.le was 1 40 deg. 40 min. Wel^. A freih Eaiferly breeze nov; fprung up, and the day being tolerably elear, at four o'clock in the afternoon, we faw Mount St. Elias, which bore North Weif three quarters North, more than 20 leagues dillant.
From the -jth to the 9th, the wind kept to the Eallward, with- wet, hazy weathei-, during wliich time we plied to tlie Southward, and confequently fhetched farther from the land than we could have wiihed ; the coalf in this part trending nearly from Eall South Eaft to Wetl North Well. Om- oblervation at noon, on the 8th, gave ^y deg. s<) n "n. North latitude ; and 141 deg. 25 min. Well longitude.
At one o'clock m the morning of the roth, the wind fhifted to South Weft, which enabled us to lland in for the coaft, to oui great fatisfaelion. Our meridian altitude at noon ;gave 56 deg. 49 min. North latitude i and the longitude 140 deg. 11 mm Weft.
Durin<: the remainder of the dav, and the whole of the nth, wc had a frelh breeze from the Weftward, and kept ftanding for the coaft, which however, we could not fee at any conlulerabledil- tance, the forenoon being thick and hazy. Our latitude at noon, -"deg. i; min. North; longitude i"^6 deg, 26 min. Weft. At " /' half
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
half pall two in the afternoon, we faw land, bearing from WtH North Well to Eall South Eall, about fouj- miles diilant. The Soiithermofl point of land appeared to be Cape Edgecombe, which we Hood in for, and prcfently found we were not miilaken. At lix o'clock the cape bore North North Weil, and our dillance from ihore about a mile. We now opened a very large and cxtenfive bay, which had every apjiearance of an excellent harbour. About a mile to the Southward of the cape is a fmall iiland, and we fleered right for the palihge b-twixt that and the cape ; but at (QVQn o'clock, feeing a quantity of rock-weed right a-head, C'aptaiu Dixon judged it prudent to haul off Ihore to the Southward, during the night.
J 79
1787.
Juiu'.
At one o'clock in the morning of the 12th, we tacked, and flood in for the bay, leaving the fmall iiland jull mentioned to the Well- ward, \\ith a light breeze from North Weil by Wefl. At four o'clock our whale-boat was hoiiled out, and lent a-head to found. About fix o'clock we faw a large boat full of j)coj)lc, at a very con- liderable dillance out at fea, making towards us as fall as pollible ; ihe hoiiled fomcthing wliich had the appearance of a white flag, but we could not dillinguifli, with the help of our glaiies, what nation ihe belonged to; and various were our conjedures on this head. Some of us judged them to be Ruilians ; and others thought they poHibly might be Spaniards, who had been left here ever fmce the year 1775, at wliich time two Spanifii veiiels were at anchor near this j)lace ; or that they belonged to Ibme Ihip, which pro- bably lay here at prcfent : however, as they came nearer, we per- ceived it to be an Indian canoe, and on their comiiig up with us^ we had the pleafure to find, that they belonged to llie Ibund we were llcering for. They had feen our veflel the preceding evening,
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nnd on our flanding out to ka, had followed us, but loil fitjit of the fliip during the night.
Soon after fix o'clock, the breeze dying away, our whale-boat came on board, the yawl was hoiilcd out, and both boats fcnt a-head, in order to tow the veilcl into the bay. During this time, we bought a few furs of trifling value, from our new acquain- tance ; and they gave us to underfland, that w^e fliould tind a number of inhabitants, and plenty of furs, in the adjacent har- bour. This piece of intelligence, though not abfolutely to be de- pended on, elated us not a little. What we had taken for a white fla^-, on our iivil feeing the canoe, was a tuft of white feathers which they had hoifted at the top of a long pole, and which I un- derftand to be an emblem of peace and friendlliip. At ten o'clock w; faw a bay to the Northward, which appeared to be well fliel- tered from the wind ; and a breeze fpringing up, we fbood right in for it, Mr. Turner was fent in the whale-boat up the found, to look for a harbour ; and Mr. White, our Third Mate, was fent in the yawl, into the bay a-head, in order to examine the foundings. Soon after eleven o'clock Mr. White returned, and reported, that the bay appeared to be an excellent place for the velfel to lay in, there being good anchorage from eight to twelve fathom water, over a fandy bottom.
After making a few fliort boards, we came to anchor at twelve o'clock, in eight fathom water, over a fandy bottom ; the extremes of the land forming the bay to the Northward, bore from South 3 d.g. Welt to North 3 deg. Eafl: ; the point of land to the Soutli Vuill, South Eall by South ; about three ([viarters of a mile dillant from fliore. Ti\e harbour to the Southward, anil South Eail by
]iai\, IS well flickered by great quantiticii of rock-weed.
About
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
About four in the afternoon, Mr. Turner returned from his furvcy in the whale-boat : he had found fcveral harbours well flicl- tered from any wind, but the bottom in general rocky ; fo that Captain Dixon detei mined to keep his picfent lituntion, as it ap- peared well flicltered from bad weather, and convenient for tlie in- habitants to vilit us.
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Whilft Mr. Turner was out in the whale-boat, he faw a large cave, formed by nature in the fide of a mountain, about four niiltj to the Northward of our anchoring birth : curiofity prompted him to go on fliore, in order to examine it, as there appeared fomething which, at a dillance, looked bright and fpaikling. Or getting into the cave, he found the objccl which attracted his attention to be a fquare box, with a human head in it, depofited in the manr.er already defcribed at Poit Mulgrave ; the box was very beautifully oinamented with fmall ihells, and feemed to have been left there very recently, being the only one in the place. Tliis circumftance Ictms to (hew, that the natives of this place difpofe of their dead in the fame manner as at Port Mulgrave, but probably make choice of caves for that purpofe, in preference to the open air.
At day-light in the morning of the 13th, we l.ad a number of canoes full of iidiabitants along-fidc; after a confiderable time fpent in iinglng, a pretty brilk trade commenced, and v,c bouglit a number of excellent otter ikins ; the people feemed far more lively and alert than thofe we liad left at Port Mulgrave ; and from every appearance, we had rcalbn to expecl an excellent trade at this i>1aee.
From this to the i6th, our trnde went brilkly forward, but af- terwards it began to decline, and feveral of the Indians left us, in order to bring a further fuppiy of Ikins from their neighbours.
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Toes arc the artick of traffic held hi the firil: efthnatlon at thi.^ place ; but they always rcfufed Imall ones, wanthig them in gene- ral from eight to fourteen inches long. Befides thefe, we traded with pewter bafons, hatchets, bowels, buckles, rings, &c. Of thefe the bafons were heft liked ; for tliough the hatchets and howe!,, were obvioully the moft ufeful tools thel'e people could poflibly have, yet they were only taken in excha ige for furs of inferior va- •lue. Beads of every fort were conftantly rcfufed with contempt, when oilered by v, ay of barter, and would fcarcely be accepted as prcfcnts.
In the evening of the i6ih, a frefli gale of wind came on from the Southward, which caufed a very heavy fea to fet into the bay. We were preparing to ftrike the top-mails, when fortunately, about midni-'ht, the weather moderated. This circumllance, however, fcrved to fliew us, that the bay was not fo fecurely fheltered fi-om bad weather as we at firft imagined.
Erom tlie 17th to the sift, our trade gradually fell oft'; and to- wards the lalv, they brought us fcarcely any thing but rubbifh, be- ing pieces of old cloaths nearly wore out ; however, we had no rca- fon to complain of their backwardnefs in parting with what little trade tht;y had left ; their conduct in this particular being quite the reverie to that of our old friends in Port iVIultrrave.
Amonglt the people who came to ti'ade with us, was an old rnan, who feemed reniarkably intelligent ; he gave us to undcr- fland, that a good while ago there bad been two velicls at anchoi near this place, one of which was coniiderably larger than ours ; that they carried a great number of g\'ns, and that the people rc- iembled us in colour and drels. He Ihewed us a white Ihirt they
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N O R T II- W E S T CO A S T OF A M ERIC \.
had {^ivcii him, ami w hlch Iv- fecmcd to regard :is a great curiol-iy ; on examining it, we foux.I it luadc ai'ter tut. .-^panifli lainion, and Immediately i I': cd the!.- v'jH" Is defciil-.tl by this Iiulia. i'~ . ''ic Spaniards who yAs i huve c-.lready .. litedj were on thioeoaiL iii me vear iJJS-
In the Jou'T.al oi' the Spaniih Voyage, publiihed by the Honou- rable Daincs Harrington, the Spaniards arc laid to have arichored in 57 deg. iS min. Noith latitude: we now lay in «;/ deg. ■^ niin.. North latitude 5 and the old man, when dc(aibing the lituation of the above Hups, always pointed up the found, to the '• orthwai'd, whicii JKlpt'd to confirm us in our opinion, that the people deicrib- cd by iiim mull liave been the .'iDaniards, Should this conjecture be light, it i'aillcicntly proves, that this place is ieldom vilited by Europeans ; for in that cafe, a vaiicty of Ihipswoidd have render- ed tlic <iccui;iUs of our new acquaintance confufed ant' iniperfe.T: : on the CGiitr.;rv, his remarks were always clear auvl pertinent, and uniformly tended to delcribc the fame oijije«5f .
183
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During this time, though trade pi'incipally engaged our atten- tl^.n, yet a number ot fubordinate, though necelfary employments, were carried on ; parties were frequently fent on lliore, fometocut fnc-wood, others to fill up our water, ancl the carpenters cut u fp.uj top-ma;l, and leveral fpai's, for variou purpofes. The wa- ter \v.is prt)eured f\om a finall river round a point of land, at the iliitance of a mile fiom the fhi[).
At firlf, the natives behaved civilly enough, and fuffered our people to follow their various empiwments unmolefled ; b'lt they (oon grew very troublefbnie, and attempted to \>'ck tlieir pockets, .md even to Ileal iheir laws and axci> in the moll open, dur.ng
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manner j inv'.ed they could I'caiccly be leftralncil from thcfc pro- ceedings without violence ; but this it was neither our intcrell or inclination to oiler, if ii could pollibly be avoided. Our peojjlc were never fent on lliorc without beint; well armed ; and luckily the fight of a few mufciuets kept them in a kind of awe, as they had frequently i'ccn Captain Dixon (hoot birds, which bad given them an idea oi" the fata! clfee^s of fiic-arms ; fo that our buiinefs on J:u)ie V. as com])Ieated without coming to an open quarrel with thcfe peo])lc
In my next I may, perhaps, give thee fomc further account of this place, which Captain Dixon diltiTiguiilied by the name of Nor- folk Sound, in honour of his Grace the Duke of Norfolk ; and I fmcorely wilh, that what little I have already faid, rcfi)eaiii- our lucccls, n^ay give thee half the pkafuic it has given to thine ali'uredly,
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L i: T T E R XXXIIl.
NrORFOLK Sour.d, at Kail that j)art where we lav .,t .r- ciior, is fituatoi in 57 do-. > min. North lat.iude ; and 1^5 (leg. -lb min. Well longitude, in that lituation, Momit Eil^c- combe hcA\' fiom us W'eit by Scuitli, a very few miles dillant, Y h a very cxter.fiv, jii.ice. but how fu- it /Irctchcs to the Northwanl, J cannot fiv; though I have no doubt of there being a palfa:;e " throui;h
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through tothc Bay ofljhmh, which, thou mayeft remember, wc look- ed for in vain to the Wcllwarcl of ('ape Eilgtcombe, when on the coart lail year. Had the wind permitted us, to have looked round the South Kail point of the cape, agreeable to our intention in the nioining of tiie 15th of Scptcmb-r laft, wc witliout doubt lliould h.uc found cur prefcnt harbour. During the greateft part of the time wc !.iy hire, the weather was pretty moderate, the mean of the tliermometer 40 deg. the wind generally light, and varying from- South liart to South Weft.
The flioic her\ in common with the leil: of the coaft, aboundr^ Nvith pines ; there is alfo greater quantities of the witcli hazle here, than wc had hitherto met with. We found various kiiids of \[o\\- ering trees and flirubs, amongfl: which were wild goofcberrics, cur- rants, and rafberries ; v/ild pai-fley is found here in great plcny , we picked great cpmntities of it, and it eats exccikntly, eiiiicr ;ii. ;i fallad, or boiled amonglt foup. The farainie, or v.i'.il H]!y-root^ grows here in great plenty and perfection.
There arc very few wild gcjfe or ducks fecn here, and thofe (liy and difficult of approach. Captain Dixon, as I before obferved, was frequently on fhore with his fowling-piece ; but he llu;t any thino; that came in his way indifcriminately, his cbJjf motive being. rather to ihcw the Indians die cffech of tire-arnir, than to puriuc game , and the event Ihewed that his intention wua compleatly an- fwered.
The inhabitant J fiequently caught iialibu:, and v,e faw bu-ge quantities, of i'almon frequently luing up on fliore to dry, but tlicy were not very willing to fell it, v/hich Ihews, that Mill is a pi ;r.c.- nal and favourite article of food here: wc Indeed puvcl:..k'd a icw
Ail Lb:ion,
185
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A VOYAGE TO THE
falrnon, but they were of a very inferior kind to thofe we met with in Cook's River. Fifli, however, being the only frefh provifion in our power to obtain, our whale-boat was frequently fent out with lix liands to catch i'fli for the Ihip's company; they were always tolerably fucceisful, catching great numbers of fine rock-filh, and i'omc hake, but very few halibut.
Whether the method of fiiliing here is the fame with that at Port Mulgravc, I cannot fliy, as we never had an opportunity of feeing them at that employment. There are great quantities of mufcles in fome parts of the found, together with a few crabs, ilar-fifli, &c.
I endeavoured to make a calculation of the nimiber of inhabi- tants who refidc in the found, and its environs ; the greatclt num- ber I ever faw about the Ihip at one time, was 175, including wo- men and children. Were I to eOimate thefe at half the number who live here, it would pe-haps not be far from the truth ; but fup- pofmg an allowance to be made for the aged and infirm, and for thofe who were abfent, engaged in hunting, filhing, 5cc. I think 4;;o people will be the whole of the natives found here, taking the computation in its utmoCl extent, and including men, women, and v-liildren.
rhefe jKople in their make, fliape, and features, are pretty muciv t};c fame with thofe we faw in Port Mulgrave ; their faces are alio painted with a variety of colours ; the women, too, ornament, or rather diftoit rheir lips in the fame manner as I have already dc- fcribcd ; and it fliould fcem, that the female who is ornamented with the largeft piece of wood, is generally mofl refpe(5led by her friends, and by the community in geneial.
Thi:.
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
This curious operation of cutting the under lip of tlie females, never takes place chuing their infancy, but from every obfervation I was able to make, ilcms confined to a peculiar period of life. When the girls ai rive to the age of fourteen or fifteen, the center of the undc)- lip, in hj tliick part near the mouth, is fimply perfo- rated, aiul a piece of copper wire introduced to prevent the aper- ture from chjfing , tlie aperture afterwards is lengthened, from time to time, in a line parallel with the mouth, and the wooden orna- ments are enlarged in jMoportion, till they are frequently increafcd to three, or even four inches in length, andnearly as wide, but this generally happens, when tlie matron is advanced in years, and con- fequcntly the mufcles are relaxed ; fo that pofTibly old age may obtain greater refpect than this very Angular ornament.
187
m i
The manners and difpofition of the people here, approach nearer to thole in Cook's River, and Prince William's Sound, than our friends in Port Mulgrave; but this may, perhaps, in fome mca- fure, be accounted for from their enlarged fociety, and their con- ftant intercourfe with each other.
Their traffic, and indeed all their concerns, fo far as fell under my obfervation, a})pear to be conducled with great order and regu- larity; they conllantly came along-fide to trade with us at day- light in the morning, and never failed to fpend more tlian half an hour in finging before the traffic commenced. The Chief of the tribe has always the entire management of all the trade belonging to his people, and takes infinite pains to dil'pofe of their furs ad- vantageouliy.
Should a different tribe come along-fide to trade, whilft he is trading, they wait with patience till he has done, and if in their
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A VOYAGi: TO THE
oj)inion ho lias made a good market, they ficqiicntly cmplDV lilif V) fell then- IkiiT:; ibinctiincs, indeed, they me CNtremcly je:dous oi" cnch othci', and ufe every jn'ccaiitiou to j)icvenl tlicii" neii^hboui- tVoin ()!>fl.r'> ::r; \\ hat aitlcie:; they obtain in excluiuge for iheii'
Al-.oiU tAvl\e o'clock tliey coiiflantly left the (liip, and went ok. ilioie, v/licVv- they llaid about an hour, which time, as ne liad fre- 'ji;ent opjMutKnitics of obiervinj:;, was taken up in eating. This evidently llun\\>, tliat they have at lealt one //\v./ meal in the dav. andtliat it is regulated by the fun. They likewife freijuentiy left us about four in the afternoon ; but this time was not fo exaclly obfcrved as at noon. Towards the evening we in general had fir the greatcil nuinhcr of vifitants ; but by this time the trade of the day was pretty well over, and numbers came only by way of relax- ation, after the fatigue of their various employments, though fometimcs we hid excellent fkins brought us in the evening, by traders who had been out durirg the day amongll theirncighbours in the sdjaccnt liar!)ours.
It was one fine evening, v/hen we were furroundcd both by tra- ders and people brought by curiofity, that I counted 175 jy-'ople, as i have before obferved j and I am pretty confideiit, that the con- elufion I drew from that ellimate, will be the extreme number of inhabitants living in this found.
When the traffic of the day is pretty well over, they begin to fing. and never leave off till the approach of night j thus beginning and ending the day in th<; fame nianycr.
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One peculiar cullom 1 took notice of Iicmc, which cj \\:t wc l.vA i)ccn lbaiK;crb to. 'I'hc nu^incnt u Chief ha^ conclu<k\i .i l)ar^:iin, he. ivjicats the woid Ccocoo thiice, with quicki^.oi's, and is iinn^.eciiatcly anivvcrcd by all the people in his car.uc with tlic aoiiI Whcrh, \<r<)- nouiiced in a tone of exclaauuio'i, but with gicalcr or Us c;:ci\;v, in proportion as the barijain he has made is approved of.
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The cloatlvs woio univcrfa'lv on tlie coaH: ni-c niade c^ \k\\\-. fewed together in various forms, and which I will endeavour to deferlbe more particularly by and bye ; I juft mcnticMi them ikav irom a remarkable circumitancc. One of the Chiefs who came to trade with us, happening one day to cafl his eyes on a piece of Sandv. ieh Kland cloth, which hung up in the Ihrouds to dry, be- came very importunate to have it given him. The man to whom the cloth belonged, parted with it very vvlUingly, and the Indian was perfectly overjoyed with his jnefent. After felling what furs he had brought with great difpatch, he immediately left us, and ])addled on fhore, w ithoiit favouring us with a parting fong, as is generally the cullom. Soon after day-light the next morp.ing, mir friend appeared along-fide, dreifed in a coat made of the Sandv. ;<.ii lliand cloth given him the day before, ajul cut exactly in the form of their (kin-coats, which greatly relemblc a waggoner's frock, ex- cept the collar and wriiV-bands. The Indian w\'is more proud of Ills new acquired drefs than ever London beau was of a birth-day fuit, and we were greatly pleafcd with this proof of thefe people's ingenuity and difpatch J the coat fitted exceedingly well; the leams were fewcd with all the ft-rength the cloth v/ould admit of, and with a degree of ncatnefs equal to that of an Engliili mantua-maker.
I was one day endeavouring to get the meaning of feme words In tlieir language from one of the Chiefs, and on pointing to the Sun,
he
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,787.
luiic.
A VOYAGE TO THE
he took great pains to make me iinderrtancl, that notwlthftanding oia- api)aicnt iupcriority in poUcHiiig various ufcful articles, wliich thev did not, vet that our oritrin was the fame with their's, that they came from above as well as we, and that the i:^un animated and kept alive every creature in the univerfe. Theie notions oi the Chief immediately brought to my recoUcCfion thofe beautiful hnes of Pope, in his Elfay on Man.
" Lo ! the j oor Indian wliofe iinnuor'il mind,
" Sicj God ill clouds, cr hears liiiu in the wind,
*' Hislbul, proud Icicnce never taught to llray,
" Far as the Iblar walk or millcy way,
" Yet fmiple nature to his l\ope has giv'n
" Behind tl>e cloud-topt hill an humble Heav'n ;
" Some fator world in depth ot woods cnibrac'd,
" Some happifr illand in the watry walk,
"' \\here Oaves on^e more their native land behold,
" No fiends torment, no CluilVians thirll for gold.
"•' TWv, contents i>is natural dctlre,
" He allcs no angel's win';, no leraph's fire,
" But thinks admitted to that ecjual Iky,
" His faithful dog fliall bear him company."
The Indians here alluded to by Pope, are undoubtedly thofe of South America ; yet many of thefe lines are applicable to the peo- ple on this lide of the continent. The man I have juft been fpeaking of had, no doubt, I'ome idea of a Supreme Being ; and if we admit the probability of their morning and evening fongs being intended as a kind of adoration to that Suj)remc Being, it will ferve to give us no very inadequate idea of their religion.
The canoes here are confl:ru61ed in much the fame manner as thofe at l^ort Mulgravc j but the Large ones are finifl'ied in a more
com-
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
191
complcat and workman-like manner, and hold from fixtecu to 1787.
1 Tunc,
twenty people. •'
Befidcs their ordinary drefs, the natives at this place have a pecu- liar kind of cloaks made purpofely to defend them from the ir.cle- mency of the weather. I had no opportunity of examining them minutely, but they appear to he made of reeds fewed very clofely together, and I was told by one of our gentlemen who was with Captain Cook during his laft Voyage, that they are exaftly the fame with thofe wore by the inhabitants of New Zealand.
In regard to the language hei ■, I have fome rcafon to think it is nearly the fame with that at Port Mulgrave ; however, as it may perhajis be iri my power to obtain fome fuither information re- fpcc^ing this article before we leave the coaft, I will refume the fub- jccf at a future opportunity.
I have already mentioned, that our ti-ade feemed nearly over by the 2 ill June, and we perceived on the 22d the natives were drip- ped of every thing worth carrying away, io that it was determined to leave this place tlie firll fair wind.
Our fuccefs at this place, if it did not nnfvvcr our mofl: fanguinc expeaations, was neverthelefs by far the moll encouraging we had hitherto met with. We purchaied about two hundred excellent jea otter ikins, a good quantity of inferior pieces of fea otter, to- gether with a large parcel of indillerent pieces and Hips ; about one hundred good feals, and a great luur.ber of fme beaver tails.
The vai-ious articles ufed by us in barter, I have already fpeci- hed } as alfo the different degrees of elUmation they arc held in ;
iron,
P'' |:!;l
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192
)une.
A VOYAGE TO T irE
iron, however, mciy juftly be reckoned the (laplc commodity, every? thhig elle dejiendhig, in a great meafurc, on fancy and caj^rice. Seals and beaver tails we brougiit to a regular itandard price, a ring being uniformly given for a tail or a fea!-lkin ; fo that iku part of our tra^c was quickly difpatched.
We now wait only for a fair wind to carry us from this place, Fluflied with our late fuccefs, we are willing to hope, that the coad will yetaftbrd us things of far greater confcquence. Be this as 't may, thou mayeil expccl at every opportunity to hear from thine ever,
W > JLi o
>IoRFOI,K Sor\D, ? 24t,hjune. i
11}
LETTER XXXIV
EARLY in tlic morning of the 23d of June, a light Wefleil/ breeze fpringing up, we unmoorctl, and at lix o'clock weighed anchor, and made fail. On getting in our linall bower, we found about twenty fathom of the cal)le cut by the rocks, and being unfit. for fcrvice, it was condemned.
At noon, Cape Edgcombe bore North 65 deg. \W'ft-, about tinxc iTiiles diftant from Ihore, and our meridian altitude gave 56 deg. 48 min. North Luitudc. Ca})tain Dixon's intention was to kc-'j'
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well ill with the land all along the coafl:, in order to examine every place where there was a jM-obability of finding inhabitants. In the afternoon the breeze frefliencd, and at fix o'clock we faw a fine en- trance, bearing Eaft North Eaft, on which we fliortened fail, and f^ood in for it. On our approaching nearer in with the land, the channel a-head had the appearance of a river from the North ; but the tide fctting ftrongly out of it, and the wind fliifting to the Northward, we ftood into a fine harbour, which now opened to the South Eaft. At the entrance we had foundings from fifty to fixty fathom water, over a rocky bottom ; but as we advanced far- ther in, the foundings leflened to twenty-one fathom, with mud, on which we came to an anchor, being compleatly land-locked, and within mufquet (hot of the fliore, both to the Southward and Northward.
19;
17^7.
June.
Though this appeared a mofl: eligible fpot for the natives to take up their abode in, yet no people were to be feen. On this, a four pounder was fired in the evening, in order to excite the curiofity of the inhabitants, if there ihould be any within hearing.
The morning of the 24th was very fine, but no Indians to b6 fcen, on which the whale-boat was hoiftcdoni:, and Captain Dixon went in her to look for inhabitants, in the adjacent creeks and har- bours. A pafiage up a corner of the bay, to the Eallward of our ftation, was the place wb.ich firlr engaged his attention : he re- turned from thence about twelve o'clock, but without fuccefs. The creek run a coniiderable dillance iii laiui, and terminated at the foot of a mountain, from v>hcncc it received a copious rup[;ly offrelh water, occalioned by the heat of tlic fun mcliing the i\\o\v on the tops of tiie mountains, and which now lr.i;l llich power as to fu}>ply a conftant rivulet.
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Near i\\\i place were the velViges of an Indian hut, which fecmcd to h.u'c been recently taken away, atul probably had been the tem- porary habitation of fome hunting party. Various kinds of flow- ers and floAering fluubs, were iprm^jint; up in the valley near the rivuLt, aivd tliough no inhabitants were found here, yet the place feems peculiarly eli'^ibL for a funinvr rciiilcncc, and more fo, as there is a jnobability of meeting with pLnty of fine faimon ; lb tl:at I have little doubt of its being conllantly frequented by the natives, farther on in the I'cafon.
ii
After dinner, Captain Dixon went to examine the pafiage to the Northward. The afternoon being very fme, our furs were got upon deck, and I'pread out to air ; they had not received the lead damage by being packed in puncheons ; Ibmc of the inferior ones were grown mouldy, but that, when dry, was eafdy rubbed off. Cap- tain Dixon not returning when tlie evening came on, we began to feci a good deal of anxiety for his fafety, though he had i'(:ven peo- ple in the boat well armed -, however, about eleven o'clock we were relieved from our fears by the boat's return ; they had not met witli the Icall- veftigc of any inhabitants, though they had been at leall fix leagues diftant from the vellel.
vSevcral of our powder-barrels being unhooped, and the powder s,rown wet and damp, this harbour was judged a moll eligible fpot to dry the powder, and get the barrels repaired, cfpecially as the weatlier was remarkably clear and ferene ; fo at eight in the morn- ing of the 25th, the gunner took the powder on fliore, and the cooper was fcnt to repair the calks. In the mean time, Captain Dixon went in the boat to examine about the entrance into this harbour, as we had taken notice, in the afternoon of the 23d, of fome inlets to the Southward aud Weltwaid. The day proved
remark-
If;
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
^9S
remarkably fine. The powtL-r was got into very goo.l oi\lcr, and 1787. brought on board early in the afternoon. Thec.i! jcnters were on >il!!!l. lliorc, and cut atop-mail-, and lome I'pais for various ufes.
About fevcn o'clock Captain Dixon rcturnc<\ havijig met with no better fuccefs than before j he had been in fevcral bays at a con- fulcrable diflance from tlie haibour, but could not perceive tlic Icafl: traces of people or habitations.
This harbour is fituated in 56deg. 35 min. North latitude j and 135 deg. Weil longitude : it obtained nhe name of Port Banks, in honour of Sir Jofeph Banks. The proipect at Poit Banks, tl^ough rather confined, yet has fomething in it more plcafing and romantic than any we had fecn on the coall. The land to the Northward and Southward rifes to an elevation fufficient to convey eveiy idea of winter ; and though its fides ai e perpetually covered with fiiow, yet the numerous pines which ever and anon pop out their bufliy heads, entirely divert it of that dreary and horrific cafi: vvith the barren mountains to the North Weft of Cook's River. To the Eaftvvard, the land is confiderably lower, and tJie pii'xs apjiear to grow in the molt regular and exact order : thefe, together with the brulli-wood and ihuibs on the iurrcui.ding beaches, form a moft beautiful contrail to tlv? higher land, and rendw-r the appearance of the whole truly pic.iling ard c!.-ht'htfal.
As our ftaying licrc any longer was only a nccdlefs wafie of time, at half paft three c'clocl in the morning of the 26th, we weighed ancho)-, and, it being calm, lent the boat:; a-hcad to tow the veilel out of the bay. The ^veat'ner hrl been very faic during the ihort time we lay here, and genoraliy calm ; theme:;n of the thermome- ter 50 deg.
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A VOYAGE TO THE
About ten o'clock we were got well into the entrance we came in by, but the wind let right in, with a thick fog, fo that we were obliged to make feveral boards before we could get clear of the land. Our meridian altitude gave 56 deg. 30 min. North latitude ; and the longitude was 135 deg. 35 min. Weft.
The afternoon" and evening continuing foggy, we ftood to the Southward during the night, and at day-light in the morning of the 27th, ftood again to the Eaftvvard. At eleven in the forenoon, the day being tolerably clear, we faw land, which had the appear- ance of two rocky illands, bearing North Eaft, on which we fteercd directly for thsm. At noon the land in fight bore from North 18 dog. Eaft, to North 50 deg. Eaft, four miles diftant. Our la- titude was 55 deg. 52 min. North; and our longitude 134 deg. 54 min. Weft.
On our approacliing ftill nearer the land, there was eveiy ap- pearance of a fine bay, the furtheft point to the Eaftvvard bearing North -,5 {'eg. Eaft -, and the Weftcrmoft point, which was very rocky, Nortii 45 deg. Weft, two miles diftant.
At three o'clock the whale-boat was hoifted out, and Mr. Tur- ner fent to fouiul the entrance into the bay, and look for a harbour. He returned at five o'clock, and reported, that the greater part of the bay was flioal water, and that there was no probability oi meeting v.'ith a convenient birth to anchor in.
At fix o'clock th- weather turned Iiazy, with frequent fijualls, which caulcd ui to double reef the top-fiiils, and haul by the wind to the Southward. At eight o'clock the laud bore from North 60
deg.
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
197
deg. Eaft to Well: : and the extremes of a large ifland from North 1787. 6 deg. Eaft, to North 26 deg. Weft. -^""*''-
The weather in the mornhig of the 28th, was thick and hazy, attended witli a frcfli breeze from the Weftwaid. In the courfe of the forenoon, *ve faw land to the Northward and Weftward, about four miles diflant j but the weather ftill continued fo very hazy, that it was by no means prudent to ftand clofe in with it.
About three in the afternoon, the day clearing up, we h ..d a good view of the land, the extremes of which bore from North 12 deg. Eaft to South 65 deg. Eaft, and an opening, which had the aj^pear- ance of a deep bay. North 47 deg. Eaft, about three leagues diftant.
We fteered directly for this bay, expefting to find a harbour, but on approachir.g quite clofe to the land, we found it a ftraight bold Ihore, without the leaft (belter. The Northermoft point is a remarkably high barren rock, and was covered with an innume- rable quantity of various kinds of birds.
During the night, and the forenoon of the 29th, we plied occa- fionally, the weather being thick and hazy. Our latitude at noon, was 55 deg. 18 min. North; and the longitude 134 deg. 56 inin. Weft. At three o'clock in the afternoon, we had a fight of the land, the extremes of which bore from North WlII to South liall by Eaft.
During the night, and the forenoon of tlic 3ctli, we had li^.lit vra-iablc winds, the weather ftill thick and hazy, which occalioncd lis to make frequent boards, always <:iulcavouiing to kecj) r.s ikmi- the coaft as was conlillcnt with prudence. At noon we faw i.ir.d
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fuiic.
A VOYAGE TO THE
to the Xortl-Av.ird and Er\l^vvard, about four leagues dlllant ; our nicriaian altitude gave SS '-^^S- ^3 "^i"- ^orth latitude. We fa.v th- api^arance of an inkt, bearing North 58 deg. Eall ; but light variable winds prevented us from making ang great progrefs to- v.ards it; however, a freHi V«,c!lcrly breeze fpringing up at five o'clock- we were enabled to itand right in for the paflage ; but this was of ihort continuance, the breeze foon dying away, and wi\s fuccecded with light winds, in almoil every direaion.
At ei-ht o'clock we faw an Kland to tlie Nortliward, which bore from North Eait by Eafb, to Eafl by North, about four leagues diflant ; the weather during the night was moderate and hazy.
At fcvcn o'clock in the morning of the i ft of July, having a frefh \Veftei1y breeze, we (Irctched to the South Eaft, the land in fight bearing from North 22 deg. Weft, to South Eaft half Eaft, and the body of an illand (cqw the preceding evening. North 30 deg. Eaft, fix niiles dlltant. At noon, we faw a deep bay, which bore North Eaft by Eaft ; the extreme point to the Northward North Eaft by North ; and the Eaftermoft land South Eaft, about k\t\\ leagues diftant. Our latitude was 54 deg. 22 min. North j and the longitude 133 deg. 50 min. Weft.
During the afternoon, we had light variable winds, on whicli we ftood to the Northwa-d, for fear we (hould get to leeward ot the bay in fight, and v;e were determined to make it if polTiblc, us tlicre was every probability of meeting with inhabitants.
t
During the night we had light variable airs in every direct on. togetlier with a heavy fwell from the Soutli Weft ; fo that in the morning of the 2d, we found our every eff'ort to reach the h.iy m-
cftcaua! .
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
effectual ; however, a moderate breeze fpringing up at North Eall, we ftood in for the land clofe by the wind with our ftarboard tacks on board. At fcven o'clock, to our very great joy, we faw fevcral canoes fall of Indians, who appeared to have been out at fea, making towards us. On their coming up v/iti\ the veliel, we found them to he a ftaiing party > but fome of them wore excel- lent bciver cloaks, the fight of which but at prefent I muft lay
down my pen, with a promife to refume it foon. Thine ad'urcdlyj
W. F.
Oi F Queen Charlotte's Islands, 1 July 4th. I
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:S;:
LETTER XXXV.
I DOUBT not but thou haft cenfurcd me in " good, fet, holi- day tcDns," for the abrupt concluiion of my laft, at a time when we were becoming the favourites ot fortune ; but ! hope now to make thee ample am.nds for this /vj/,vf, by an account of the fuccefs we have met with, and which equals our raoft fanguine expectations.
The Indians we fell in with in tlie morning of the 2d of July, did not iccm inclined to dilpofe of their cloaks, though we en'lca- vourcd to tempt them by exhibiting various articles of trade, fuch as toes, hatchets, adzes, bowels, tin kettles, i)ans, 6cc. tlieir atten- liun (cemcd entirely taken up with viewing the veliel, whicli they
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A VOYAGE TO THE
aopareiiily dul with marks of wonder and furprize. This we lookeJ on as a gootl omen, and the event iliewed, thatyor once we were not miliaken.
After their curlofity, in fome nieafure, fubfided, they began to trade, aiul we prcfcntly bought what cloaks and Ikins they had got, in exchange for toes, which they feemed lo like very much.
They made figns for iis to go in towards the fliore, and gave us to underitaud, that we Ihould find more inhabitants, and plenty of
furs.
By ten o'clock we were within a mile of the fliore, and faw the \ illage where thefe Indians dwelt right a-breaft of us : it confiftcd of about fix huts, which appeared to be built in a more regular form than any we had yet feen, and the fituation very pleafant, but the fliore was rocky, and afforded no place for us to anchor in. A bay now opened to the Eaftward, on which we hauled by the wind, which blew pretty frefli from the Northward and Kaftward, and fteered dire6f ly for it. During this time, feveral of the people whom we traded with in the morning, had been on (hore, probiibly to ihew their newly acquired bargains j but on feein;>; u^ I leer ♦or the bay, they prefently pufhed after us, joined by feveral other canoes.
As we advanced up the bay, there appeared to be an excellent harbour, well land-locked, about a league a-head ; 'we had found- ings from ten to twenty-five fathom water, over a rocky botti.ni, but unluckily, the harbour trended right in the wind, and at one o'clock the tide fet fo ifrongly againft: us, that we found itimpolli- ble to make the harbour, as we loll ground every board, on which
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NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
201
u«, hove the main top-fail to the mafl:, hi order to trculc with the 1787. Indians. J'-^'y-
A fccne now commenced, which abfohitcly bcgjars all defcrip- tion, and with which we were fo overjoyed, that we could fcarcely believe the evidence of our fenfes. There were ten canoes about the fliip, which contained, as nearly as I could eftimate, 120 people; many of thefe brought moft beautiful beaver cloaks ; others excel- lent Ikins, and, in (hort, none came empty handed, and the rapi- dity with which they fold them, was a circuniuancc ac'ditionally pleafmg ; they fairly quarrelled witn - each other about which Ihould fell his cloak lirft j and fome a(5>ually threw their furs on board, if nobody was at hand to leceive them ; but we took parti- cular care to let none go from the veflel unpaid. Toes were ahnoft the only article we bartered with on this occafion, and indeed they were taken fo very eagerly, that there was not the Icafl occafion to offer any thing elfe. In lefs than half an hour we purchafcd near 300 beaver Ihins, of an excellent quality ; a circumftance v^hich greatly raifed our fpirits, and the more, as both the plenty of fine fius, and the avidity of the natives in parting with thtm, were con- vincing proofs, that no traffic whatever had recently been carried on near this place, and confequently we might expecb a continu- ation of this plentiful comnierce. 1 hat thou mayefl foini fome idea of the cloaks we purchafcd here, I fhall jull obfcrve, il; it they generally contain three good fea otter ikins, one of which is cu*^ in two pieces, afterwards they are nearly fevved together, fo a<^ to fcmi a f(juarc, and are loofely tied about the Ihoulders with li:.aii Ka- ther Ibings fallened on each lide.
At three o'clock, our traile being entirely over, and the v.ird flill againll us, we made fail, and Ilood out of the buy, iiitcadi^^ to
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A VOYAGE TO THE
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try again for tlic harbour in the morning. At eight o'clock the points of the bay \vc had lately left, bore from >'o;tii 19 cleg. Ealt to Kail, about three leagues ditlant. Duj-ing the niv lit wc irrcich- ca to the Southward and Weihvard, plyn^.g as octafion required.
In the morning of the 3d, wc had a frefli Eaflerly breeze, and fqually weather, with rain ; but as wc approached the lar,d, it grew calm ; arnl at ten o'clock, being not moictiian a mile dlllant from fliorc, the tide fet us ilrongly on a rocky point to the North- w-ird of the bay, on which tlie whale-boat and yawl were hoiittd out and fent a-liead, to tuv\- the veflei clear of the rocks.
Several canoes came alor.g-fidc, but we knew them to be our fiLiicls whom we had traded with the day before, and found that thicy wcie ftripped of every thing worth purchafmg, which made lis lefs anxious of gettir.g into our propofed harbour, as there was a <neater probability of our meetir/g with frefli fupplies of fuis to the Eaftward. At three o'clock a f;efh breeze fpringlng up, we hollled in the boats, and the we.uher turning hazy, weftrctchcd to the South Weil, tacking occafionally during the night.
In the morning of the 4th the land in fight bore from Nortli y; dcg. Eaft to South 48 deg. Kaft, about four leagues dhlimt. At noon the head of the bay we fivi): made, and which I ihall dilVm- guilli by the name oi' Ckak Bay, bore r.early f:all, about four leagues dlrtant. Our meridian aliiude gave 54 d^'g. 14 mln. North lati- tude, and the longitude was 133 (leg. 23 miii. W elf. \^ c four.d the variation oi the cominiis to be 24 deg. 28 min. Eallerly.
During the afternoon we had a frefh Northerly breeze, and cloudy weather. At tlu'cc o'clock wc l;iy a bay to the EaftwarJ,
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NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
on whicli wcheUiIcJ on ;i wind, and flood ty\v;M-ds it : but faulin?; no apjicarnncc of a harboii'v nor any fign of inha')itaiits, when at two miles dillr.-.icj fion tiu lar.(l,\\c bon: awav to the Southward, At eiijht o'cIol!; we tacked and ilood to tlie \\ eltward ; the ex- tren^.es ol'tl.e land r.v that tin:e bore froni Nortli to South 4b' deg, Eaft, about four miles diilant from fliorc.
During the nigbit \vc bad light baffling winds, -with intervening cahns ; but in the morning of tb.e 5th, a breeze fpning up from the North Well. Daring the forenoon v/e Czood in for ih.e (liore, making occafional boards, ia order tbiat we might lofe as little ground as j^ollible. At noon the land in fight bore from ^'outli c8 deg. Ealt to North 1 1 deg. Well, diilance from iliore about lliree n)ilcs. Our mcrili.Mt aliitude gave 53 djg. a", min. North latitude. In tlic afternoon fevcral c;:noes came aio.ig-i'de, bring- ing a number of good cloaks, which tlv-V difpofed of very eagjrly ; but trade fecmed now to liavc fik.n a tiuTcrent turn; brafs pans, pewter bafons, and tin kettles, being the articles moll elleemed by thefe people.
The wind continuing ftcady at North Wed, Captain Diyon judged it more advantageous for us to ply akmg (bore, as circum- flances required, tlian c >r,vj to ai-'chor, especially as v.e Iv.id cvjry reafMi to conclude, t'lat the natives did not live t ogjtlier in one Ibcial crmmunity, bnt vvrc (c.-ttered abo'it in dliji-ent tnbjs, and probably at enmity witii eacli other. At ei.'ht o'cioc k the evtixni :3 of the land m firlit bo/c fom Nou'i 20 d. ;. We l to S> h^\ Co deg. Eall, and a kind of inlet or bay ::on':i 70 ■'!--;. I^ali : i.ur miles diflant from lliore.
203
1737. July.
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July.
A\'OYAGETOTHE
The Incliaris did not leave us till evening came on, and gave us to underlland, that they would return in the morning with more furs.
Daring the night, the weather was moderate, with a fteady North Weflerly breeze ; lb that in the mornijig of the 6th, we were well in with the land. In the forenoon our new friends returned, according to their promife, with fome excellent fea otter cloaks, which they difpofed of with the fame facility as before. Our lati- tude at noon was 53 deg. 34 min. North ; the extremes of the land bore from South 58 deg. Eafl to North 25 deg. Weft. The breeze frefliening, we hove to in order to give the Indians a better opportunity of trading, and by two o'clock we had entirely ftripped them.
Thefe people were evidently a different tribe from that we met with in Cloak Bay, and no,t fo numerous ; I could not reckon up more than feventy-five or eighty perfons along-fide at one time. The furs in each canoe feemed to be a diftinft property, and the people were particularly careful to prevent their neighbours from feeing what articles they bartered for. Soon after two o'clock the Indians left us j on which we made fail, and flood along fliore, tack- ing as occafion required.
Since the 2d, we had coafted along fliore more than thirty miles, and now meeting with afrcfh tribe of Indians, we were convinced that this plan was attended with better and fpeedier fuccefs than our laying at anchor could poflibly be. At eight o'clock the ex- tremes of the land in fight bore from North 10 deg. Eafl: to South yS d^S- Eaft ; our diftance from fliore about fix miles. The wea- ther
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tlier cliuing the night was moderate, and we phed to the South- 1787. ward and Wcllward, making boards as occafion required. •^"'^'
In the morning of the 7th we flood in for the land, and at ten o'clock, feeing a deep bay which bore North North Wefl, we hauled on a wind, and fteered dire6lly for it, thinking it probably might be inhabited ; but on approaching well in with the land, there was no appearance of a harbour, or any inhabitants, on which we bore away to the Southw'ard. At noon the extremes of the land bore from South Eafl: to North 60 deg. Weft, four miles diilant from ihore. The latitude 53 deg. 16 min. and longitude 133 deg. 19 min. Weft.
205
i '
About two o'clock in the afternoon, being clofe in fliorc, we Cuw feveral canoes putting oft", on which we fliortened fail, ar.d lay to for them, as the wind blew pretty frefli. The place thefe people came from had a v^ry Angular appearance, and on examining it narrowly, we plainly perceived that they lived in a very large hut, built on a fmall illand, and well fortified after the manner of an hippah, on which account we diftinguiflied this place by the name of Hippah Jjliimi.
The tribe who inhabit this hippah, feem well defended by na- ture from any fudden aflauU of their enemies j for the afccnt to it from the beach is fteep, and difficult of accefs ; and the other Tides are well barricadoed with pines and brufli-wood ; nolwiilillanding which, they have been at infinite pains in laifing additional fences of rails and boards ; fo that I Ihould think they cannot fail to repel any tribe that Ihould dare to attack tlicir fortification.
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I7S7. J ■-..
A VOYAGE TO THE
A number of circumllanccs l;acl occurred, fincc our firO tr;u!c m Clo.i!; B:iy, which convhicccl U'^;, that the natives at this j)hicc ..cic of a irorc lavage chipoiition, and ]kkI lefs intcrcouifc with c:;c!i other, than any Indians we liad met with on the coaft, and we hj- '/an to lui'pect that tliev were cannibals in fome dvLiree. C vpvviv. Dixon no loor.cr law the tbrtihed hut jufl: mentioned, tlvn tf'.ij I'ufpicion was ibcngthcned, as it was, he laid, built exactly on tii3 plan of the liipiah of the favages at New Zealand. The niojije, on coming aiong-ilde, traded very quietly, and llrongly imponuncil us by ligns, to come on lliorej at the fame time giving us t-^ un- dorfland (j)oint!ng towards the Eali) that if we vifited tliat \uvt of tlie coa'l, the inhabitants there would cut offour heads. This was ail uiiqucfiionable proof, that they were at variance with ilieir neighbuurs, and their holrile ajipearance fufiiciently coniirmed ir, b.ing well armed with knives and (pears.
I am not fond of hazarding cojijecfures^ yet T cannot help remark- ing, that though the behaviour of thefc people was hai'mlcfs and inotienfive, yet their attempt to perfaade us to go on ihore, is an additional proof in favour of our ilil'piciou ; they certainly wanted to decoy us to the hippah, and there, no doubt, we fhould have -been inllantly butchered,
We purcliafed a number of excellent cloaks, and feme good Ikins from thcfi: Indians, for which wc gave a varieiy of articles, fome chuung toes, and others pewter balbns, tin kettles, kniv.s, 6cc. This tribe appeared the Lall we had yet leen ; 1 could not reckon more than thirty-four or thirty-fix people in tiie whole party ; but then it iiiould be confidered, that tliele were probably ciioi'en men, who perhaps expeded to meet wiih tiieir encmiej, as tliey were equally prepared for war or trade.
Having
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NORTII-WKST COAST OF AMERICA.
207
Ilavir^ purchifcd every thing thcfc fnvagcs had lo difpofc of, 1787. nr;. -U) more canoes co-siiiig- iie.ir us, :\t cj.;ht o'clock we made i^.il. ' '" 1 . At.enics of {h^ I.Tid in light b.'ic iVom KalV South Eaft to jNu: iJi \v tit by Noi th ; dirtance fioni iliorc about {i:vcn miles.
Durinp; the night we ftood off and on, with the wind at North V'cit, and in the morning of the Kth, we Itood in for t!ie land; at ci'!,'it o'tlwck, feeinjT fomc canoes co'ning froni Hiore, we lay to, in o:c!er to tiade with them. On their coming a!on2;-rule, we found th;'m to be (nir friends from ]lip])nh lil.iud; but what furs they n(Av brought were of an inferior kind, tliey liaving fold us their prime fkins tlie ]ireceding afternoon. Ey ten o'clock, the Indians beir.^; entirely Ih'ippjd, left us ; on which we ma;!c fill. Ourob- (ervation at noon gave 5-^ dcg. 2 min. Nortli latitude. Hippnh Ifiind bore North 2. ik^. Wc(\ ; a little ifland North 11 dcg. Weil", and the Southermoll hind in fight South 68 dc^. EaCt ; the ncareft Ihore about r.hi"ee leagues diilant.
Durir.g the afternoon we kcj-.t clofe in v.-ith the land, tacking cccalionalK-, but no canoes c.r.riC near us. At eight o'clock, Hip- p:ih J nunc! bore North W'cfl, ai'd the SouthermoO land in. fight South y2 ^'^"o- ^'"^^^ ' "'"■^^' t^i-^''i^^ce from fhore about four leagues.
During tb.e niglit \vc frood ofl'and on ; our ch;;f circ being to keep f) near iliv i.\r'\, tiiat \. e co^uld be wtil in v. i'.li it Toon after day-ligbr, and bv that rnjan.'-,, have an oppc-rtunity of infpcding every r.r!c(yf t'ae coail.
In {he. f v-cno )n of t' ^gtli, v/e hi.': fvc canoes a!ong-fldc, con- tainiiv^ abour t'uity-cigiit or ior^y ]):oj^!C^, from wl^oin w; nnrcln- fed lor..e very good clo.h.i, and a kw good Ikins ; <'/'V U^j v. .;-c
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July.
A VOYAGE TO THE
fond of variety, aiiv! did not iix on any particular article j hut tin kettles and pewter bal'ons fecmcd to have the preference to anv thint: we could Ihew them.
In one of the canoes was an old man, who appeared to h;i\c fome authority over the rell, though he had nothing to difpofe of : he gave u.s to underlhuid, that in another part of thefe iflands, pointing to the Enflward) he could procure plenty of furs for us, on which Captain Dixon gave hini a light horfeman's cap : this prefent ac'dcd greatly to his conft-quence, and procured him the envy of his .ompanions In the other canoes, who beheld the cup with a longing eye, andfeemedto wilh it in their polleflion.
There were likewifc a few women amongft them, who all feemcJ pretty well advanccil in years ; their inider lii)s were diftorted in the fame manner as i lofe of the women at Port Mulgrave, ami Norfolk Sound, and the pieces of wood were particularly hngc. One of thefe lip-pieces appearing to be peculiarly ornamenteil, Captain Dixoii wilhed to purchale it, and oflercd the old woman to whom it belonged a hatchet ; but this Ihe refufed with cvn- ten'iDt ; toes, bafons, and ieveral other articles were afterwards iliewn toiler, and as conllantly rejecied. Our Cajnain began now to dcfjiairof making his wilhed-for purchafe, and had nearly gi\xu it up, when (>ne of our people happening to fliew the old lady a fev, buttons, which looked remarkably bright, llie eagerly embiaivd t]ie olTer, ami was now altogether as leaily to part with her wooden ornament, as before ih.; was defirous of keeping it. This curious lip-piece meafured three and I'even-eighth inches long, and two and hve-eighth inches in the wideil jiait : it was inlaid with a fniall pearly Ihell, round which was a rim of copper.*
Tlicfe * Tliis lip-ii!ccf is now in the poflcinon of Sir Jofcph lianks, Bart.
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NORTH -WEST COAST OF .xMLRICA.
Thcfe people were evidently a di(icj-ciu- tiibc from tliat inhabit- ing Ilippah Illand, but appeared equally favage and liercc in thclL- dilpolitions, and were well provided with offcniive weapons ; how- ever, they traded vei'y quietly, ami did not give us the Icall diflur- bancc. When the fursvvhieh they brought lor baiter were dilj:o- fed of, they left us, and paddled in for the fliore. Our obfervation at noon gave 52 deg. 54 min. North latitude ; and the longitude by lunar obfervation was 132 deg. 23 min. Weft. The extremes of the land bore from South y^ deg. Eall, to North 42 deg. Weft; and our diftancc from lliore about llx miles.
In the afternoon, four canoes, containing about 32 people, came along-fide, but they belonged to our morning vifitants, and what cloaks they bi'ought us were indiflerent, being pretty much wore. By four o'clock the Indians, (having diipofed of all their trade) left us, and made for the land.
During the night we had a ftrong breeze from the Weftward, with conftant rain, which continued till the foienoon of the loth, when the wind grew light and variable, with thick hazy weather. Our obfervation at noon gave 52 deg. 48 min. North latitude. At fix o'clock the extremes of the land bore from North Eall by North to North 75 deg. Weft ; a fmall illand North 22 deg. Eaft, diftant four leagues. In the night the wind again fettled at North Weft, blowing a frefli breeze, the weather cloudy ; we flood to the South \VQi\ as uflial.
I may now lay down the pen for a moment, with a good [■;raco, as that plea lb often ufed by icouJ /m' crcat men, viz. " lii.'ny of /'///.•'7<;/i," will come with fon\e degree of decency at this time, from thy lincere friend. W'. 15.
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Isi.AM);;, I2ih July. )
20;
1 ,07. ' ,—
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A VOYAGE TO THE
L E T T E R XXXVI.
rir"^FIOU maycft fee by the whole tenor of my laft, that our JL coalling along thefe iilands was the bell and moft expedi- tions method of trading we could poflibly have hit on.
In the morning of the i ith of July, having a fteady breeze at North Weft, we ftocd in for the land, which at noon bore from
North §s ^^^5- ^^^^^ ^° ^^'•^^^^ 74 ^^^'5' ^^^^' ^"^' ""'^'"^^^^'^'^ ^'*'*- tudc gave 52 deg. 50 min. North latitude, and our diflance from Ihore was about two miles. During the afternoon we kept clofe along fliore, expccling funic Indians would come off to us ; but at fix o'clock none appearing, we haulal our wind to the South Well. At citrht o'clock the land bore from Eall South Eaft to North Well by Weil", about three miles dillant from fliore. During the night we had a gale of wind at North Weft, attended with frequent heavy f<pialls, which occafioned us to hand the fore-topfail, and clofe-reef the main top-fail.
In tlic morning of the 1 2th, the weather growing more mode- r;ite, we niadc fail, and Hood towards the land. Our latitude at noon was 52 dcg. 3 min. North. During the afternoon, the wind blew very frclh, lb that no Indians came near us. At eight in thr evening, the cxticmes of the land bore from Eafl: by North to North North Weil •, diibnt from Ihore four leagues.
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NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMEIRCA.
In the morning of the 13th, the weather was moderate, but very hazy ) the land at iioon bc;rc from South 65 dcg. Halt, to North 60 deg. Weft, about two miles dlllant froni lliorc. Our obferva- tion gave 52 deg. 17 min. North latitude. Wq kept clofe in with the fliore during the afternoon, thougli tlie weather was ilill very liazy. A little before i'i:\xn o'clock, the fog clearing up, we faw fe- veral canoes making towards us, on which we hauled by the wind, and hove to, in order to give them an opportunity of coming up with us : they were a diflerent tribe from our lall: traders, and brought us feveral excellent cloaks, and fome very good Ikiiis, which we purchafed on much the fame terms as before. This party confifted of about thirty-fix people and, like the tribes we had recently traded with, were prepared for the reception of their adverfaries.
Before the day clofcd in, we had purchafed every article the In- dians had got to fell j yet they could not be prevailed on to quit the fliip, though we made fail, and gave them to underftand, that we fnould return the next day; yet they fiill kept up with the vef- fel. At length, about ten o'clock, a very thick fog coming on, they left us, and paiklled towards the fiiore : we were now at leall: eight miles dillant fro;n the coail, and it was a matter of dv)u!)t with many of us, whether tliefe poor fellows would ever be able to find their way on lliore, it being impolUble to dhiinguiih any object twenty fathoms a--head of tlie vellll. During tlie niglit we hauled on a wind to the South Well as ufu.d.
From tlie 14th to tlie 20th, we liiul ucneiMlly thick ro^;:;;-y wea- ther, v/ith a conllant ilrong bree/.e at North Weil, and frequent intervening fqualls. As we ii.ul iv^il'jn to cXj'cjt moi-c ti-ade from this quarter, it was judged moil -pr iJent lo ih;:ul oA an.l on occa- fionaliy, in order to preven.t: our getting too far to the I' .'.lUvanl ;
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A VOYAGE TO THE
1787. and at the fame time to be well la with the land, whenever the I'o;:". fhoald ckar up.
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We had a meridian altitude on the iSth, which gave 51 deg, 46 min. North latitude ; and the mean of feveral lets of lunar obferva- tions gave 131 deg. 22 min. Weil longitude. The weather was not fo conftantly foggy, but that we frequently faw the land, and twice or thiice were clofe in with the fhorc, fo that the natives miji,ht eafily have come to us, but none appearing, we began feri- oufly to think, that the Indians who left us in the evening of tlie 13th were loft at fea, and confequently no more would come near the vefTel, as they might poflibly conclude that we haddeftroyed tlicir companions.
Our latitude at noon on the 20th was 52 deg. i min. North ; fo that we were only fixtccn miles to the Southward of our obferva- tion on the 13th. The day being moderate and clear, we ftood in for the land, and feeing feveral canoes making towards us, about one o'clock we hove to. When the canoes came along-fide, we found the people to be the fame that traded with us laft, acircumftance ^^hich gave us great pleafure, our fears for their fafety being groundlefs.
What furs they now brought were of an inferior kind, confifting chiefly o^' old cloaks, pretty much wore j thefe were generally pur- ihafcd with brafs pans, knives, and buckles. The Indians being ftrijjjied of all their furs, left the vellcl immediately, and at four o'clock wc made fail, Ihctching to the South Weft as ufual.
During the night, and greatcft part of the 21ft, we had aftrcng .Voitli Wcderly brocze, with fivqucnt fqualls. Our obfcrvation at
noon
TM.P_ I/O7.
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
noon gave 5 1 dcg. 54 niin. North latitude. In the evening we liad . /o, a very heavy fwell from Weft South Well, wliich being met by the •^"'^' tide, caufcd tlie hcaviefl crofs fea we had feen during the Voyage.
The weather on the 2 2d was moderate and hazy; our obferva- tion at noon gave 52 deg. 30 min. North latitude. During the afternoon we made Ihort boards, in order to keep well in with the coaft.
In the morning of the 23d we had light winds, the weather ftill hazy. Our latitude at noon was 52 deg. 13 min. North. The afternoon proving tolerably clear, about feven o'clock we favv fe- veral canoes making towards us, on which we hcve to ; our dif- tance fi'oni fliore was then about five miles. There were eiirht canoes, containing near one hundred people, many of whom had been with us on the 13th and 20th : they brciiglit fome pretty good cloaks, and a few good f!<ins, which we purchafed for tees aiid buckles. During the night we hauled by the wind as ufual, tack- ing occafionally, fo as to keep near the land ; ilie wcaiher moderate and hazy.
Towards noon on the 24th, the fog clearing up, we perceived fc- veral canoes putting off from fliorc, on which we lay to, in order to i!,ivcihcm ar. ojijiortunity of coming up with us. In Icfs than an hour \vc had eleven canoes ak)ng-f'.dc, containing near jSo nicn, women, aiul children, wliich was by far the greateil concourfe of pci'ple v.e had fc.;!! at aiiy oi-.e time, fiiice v.c had fallen in v.ith tiicle fortunate iiiands ; hut vvc i'oon i'ouwd th:.t cu!;ority had (.k,!t. f- Iv induced the natives to pay us thisvifit, whai they I'.ow brou^lit lo kU l;eing merely the gleanings of the harvdl wc h:ul plentifully reaped bcfoie: iiideed till now, we had feldom feen av.y W'.^nv.n -..r
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A VOYAGE TO THE
chiUlrcn in the trading parties ; for the men probably expcaing to meet with their enemies, for the moft part left the women and chil- dren behind, as an ufelefs incumbrance. The Indians having dif- pofcd of every trifling piece of rubbifli they had got to fell by three o'clock, left us, and paddled for the ihore, on which we made fail, and llood to the Eaftward. At eight o'clock the Eaflermofl: point of land bore North 40 deg. Eafi:, about four miles diftant. From this point is a range of broken rocks, which run out more than a mile from the land.
It bcin"- evident that we could expcfl no more trade on this fulc the iilands, Captain Dixon purpofed {landing round the .point, in order to try what the oppofite fide afforded. During the night wc made occafional boards, as it was judged mofl prudent to double the rocky point in the day-time.
The morning of the 25th was cloudy, with a moderate breeze at Well North Well. At noon the rocky point bore North 27 dcg. Weft, about three miles diftant. It is fituated in 51 deg. 56 min. North latitude; and 130 deg. Weft longitude ; and this being St. James's day, we diftinguiihed the land oil" which thefe rocks lay, by the name of Cape St. James. In the afternoon we were vifitcd ly a fmgle canoe, but the people in her were fomc of the friends v.e had lately left, and brought very little worth notice. During tlu night we had light variable winds, and moderate weather.
At noon on the 26th, the land bore from South 5 deg. Wcfl, tii North 54 deg. Weft ; the point to tiie Southward confifts of fcvc- ral broken rocks, which extend to fomedlftance from the fliorc, but not near fo far as thofe off Cape St. James. The weather now \\ as conftantly tliiek and hazy, morning and evening, but generally
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cleared up towards noon ; the wind for the grcattft part, light and »7^7« variable. -^^^^
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It was Captain Dixon's intention, if the wind permitted, to go round thcfe iflands, that we might not only clear the inhabitants of their furs, but be able cxadly to determine their extent, for the information of future navigators -, at prefcnt, however, our progrefs was very How.
About eleven o'clock on the 27th, we had four canoes along- fide, containing about thirty ])coplc, feveral of whom we knew to bj our old friends ; they brought ievcral good cloaks and Ikins, which (liewcd that the trade on this fide of thefe iilands was far from being exhaufted. In the afternoon three other canoes came to us, bring- ing feveral excellent Ikins, which was an additional encouragement for us to proceed. Our latitude at noon was 52 deg. 18 min. North, about three miles diftant from Ihore.
Thefe people difpofed of their furs in the fame ready manner as our former traders, and preferred tin kettles and pewter balbns to axes or howels.
Towards the evening we had a moderate Eaflerly breeze, v.ith cloudy weather. At eight o'clock the i^outhcrmoll point of land buic South 43 deg. Eall, ami the land to th(- Northward North 56 (leg. Well; fcven miles dillant from fliore. During tlicnigl;t wc racked occahonally, in order to keep well in vviih the Ihore, v^Iiich, in the morning of the aSth, was about five miles diilant. Having a moderate Earterly breeze, we flood towards the land, and in the forenoon feveral canoes came along-fide us 5 many of thefe penpie
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2 10
A V O V A G E TO THE
v.'c;c (.I'tiiV nr.nigcrs, but what furs tlicy brought wore In gcr.crn in.uir-rjnl, aiiu were chiclly puixliafcd with kni\v;s and buckles.
The clay clearing up, wc faw huid to the Eaflward, nhont ten .k;":,ucs uiitant, on which wc founded vvitli a line of thirty fathon^ over a (hingly bottom ; our latitude at noon was 52 dcg. 57 niin, ?s'on!i. In the afternoon wc had light baflVng winds, with con- lta!-.t driz/iing rain. The tide fetting us to the Eallward, we had tiiun.liiv'S from twcntv-four to fourteen fathom water, over a hot- torn of land and fmall pebble (tones. The land in fight to tlu Eallward v,e judged to be the Continent, and the nearer we ap- proeched it, our foundings Icirencd.
Towards fix o'clock the tide turned, and now fetfing from that land which we fujipofed to be the Continent, it frequently drove large patches of fca-weed, long grafs, and pieces of wood, by the vedci, which made us conclude, that there is a large rive-- fetting o'lt iVom that part of the coalt. The river called Los 1 .ys, by 1 Hi 1 onte, is near this place ;* and though what he fays about it ii almoit incredible, yet, from the above circumilance, it appears very probable, that there arc deep inlets into the country ; and it is to be lamented, that we had not an opportunity of examining that pait of the coalE
The morning of the 29th was moderate and cloudy; the wind btina; li-ht and va'iable, we tacked occafionallv, in order to ftand well in with the ihore, that no opportunity of trading might be lolb. T(nvards noon the weather cleared up; our meridian i bfcjvation gave 52 deg. 57 mln. North latitude ; fo that we were r.ear the
middle
• See Admiral dc Fonti.'s IcUci in Dubbs's Account of the Countries aljoiiiiin to Hud • lon'b I';i\, [);i2,c 124.
Ill
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
ni'uUlle of the iHand towards the Northward and Ealbvard. In this lituatlon wc favv liigh laid to the North Weft, near thirty leagues diltant, and wliicli evidently was the lame we had fcen on the ifl: of July. This circumflance clearly proved, the land we had been coafting along for near a month, to be a group of iflands.
Early in the afternoon we (iiw feveral canoes coming from fliore, and by three o'clock we had no lefs than eighteen along-fide, con- taining more than 200 people, chiefly men : this was not only the ;;reatcil concourfe of traders we had fcen, but what rendered the circumllance additionally plealing, was the quantity of excellent furs they brought us, our trade now being equal, if not fuperior to that we met with in Cloak Bay, both in number of ikins, and the facility with which the natives traded, fo that all of us were bufily employed, anil our articles of traffic exhibited in the greatefl: vaii- cty ; toes, hatchets, bowels, tin kettles, pewter bafons, brafs pans, buckles, knives, rings. Sec. being preferred by turns, according to the fancy of our numerous viiitants.
Amongft thcfe traders was the old Chief, whom we had (cen on tlie other fide thel'e illands, and who now appearing to be a perfon of the tirfl confequence, C]i tain Dixon permitted him to come on board. The moment he got on the quajter deck he began to tell a long ftorv, the purport of which was, that he had loll in battle the cap which we had given him ; and to convince us how true this rtory was, he ihewcd us leveral wounds he had received in de- fending his j)roperty ; notwithllanding this, he begged for another cap, intimating at the fame time, that he would never lole it but with his life. Our Captain, willing to gratify his ambition, n\:\dc him a prefent of another cap, and we prefently found it was r.ot bellowed in vain, for he became extremely ulel'ul to us in our tiaf-
217
i;87.
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July.
A VOYAGE TO THE
fic; whenever any dilputc or miftake arofe in the unavoidable hurry occafioned by (o great a number of traders, they always re- ferred the matter to him, and were conftantly liuisfied with his de- termination.
On GUI' pointing to the Eaftward, and afking the old man whe- ther we Ihould meet with any furs there, he gave us to underftand, that it was a different nation from his, and that he did not even iinderfland their language, but was always at war with them ; that he had killed great numbers, and had many of their heads in his polieilion.
The old fellow Teemed to take particular pleafure in relating thefe circumflances, and took uncommon pains to make us com- prehend his meaning j he clofed his relation with advifmg us not t>) come near that part of the coaft, for that the inhabitants would certainly deltroy us. I endeavoured to learn how they difpofed of the bodies of their enemies who were ilain in battle ; and thoudi I could not underftand the Cliief clearly enough pofitivdy to ad'ert, that they are fealled on by tlie vitlors \ yet there is too much rea- iow to fear, that this horrid cuftom is pra6lifed on this part of the coalV ; the Jieads are always preferved, as (landing trophies of vic- tory.
Of all the Indians we had feen, this Chief had the moft: favage afpe^^, and his whole appearance fufficiently marked him as a proper perfon to lead a tribe of cannibals. His ftature was above the com- jnon fize ; his body fj)are and thin, and though at firlf fight he ap- peared lank and emaciated, yet his Itep was bold and firm, and his limbs apparently (bong and mufcular ; his eyes were large and gog- ling, and I'eemed ready toltart out of their fockctS) his forehead deeply 2 . wrinkled,
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
■wiinklal, not merely by age, but from a continual frown ; all iliij, joined to a long vifage, hollow cheeks, high elevated cheek bones, and a natural ferocity of temper, formed a countenance not cafily beheld without fome degree of emotion : however, he proved very ufeful in conducting our traffic with his people, and the intelli- gence he gave us, and the methods he took to make himfelf under- rtood, (hewed him to polTefs a ftrong natural capacity.
2l<^
1787-
Befides the large quantity of furs we got from this party, ("at leaft 350 fkins) they brought feveral racoon cloaks, each cloak confifting of feven racoon Ikins, neatly fewed together ; they had alfo a good quantity of oil in bladders of various fizes, from a pint to near a gallon, which we purchafed for rings and buttons : this oil appeared to be of a moft excellent kind for the lamp, was pcr- fe6lly fweet, and chiefly collc£led from the fat of animals.
By feven o'clock we had entirely ftripped our numerous traders of every faleable article, on which they left us, and paddled for the fliore. The wind during the night being variable, we tacked occa- llonally, in order to keep as near the coaft as was confident with prudence.
Every perfon on board is greatly elated with ovn- jMcfont cLur- fui/ig profpcds, but no one more To than thy allured hiciid,
W. B.
Off Queen Chari.ovte's IstANDs, 7 Julyjoth. J
Ee 2
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220
A VOYAGE TO THE
1787.
LETTER XXXVIL
I HAVE frequently obferved, that people in general, whca reading a liillory, whether real or fi«5litious, and whether tlie hero of it is fortunate or overwhelmed with misfortunes, are ever anxious to come at the cataitrophe. Should this be thy cafe at pre- f^nt, and thou really art impatient to know the extent of our good fortune, the prefcnt epiftle will ferve to relieve thee in that parti- cular.
Li the morning of the 30th July, we had a moderate breeze at Souili, the weather tolerably fine. Our latitude at noon was 52 (leg. 30 min. North; the fliore about four miles diftant. In the afternoon we had eight canoes along-fide, but they brought very few Ikins, and thofe of an inferior quality ; at the fame time giv- ing us to underftand, that their ftock was nearly exhauded : they were part of the traders who had been with us the day before ; fome of them had been on a fifhing paity, and caught a number of halibut, which proved a very feafonable fupply, our fiih having been expended fome time.
Hitherto all the people we had met with at thofe iflands, though evidently of a lavage dilpofition, had behaved in a quiet ordeily manner, but this evening they gave us a convincing proof of their mifchievous difpolition, and that in a manner which Ihewed a con- fidcrable degree of cunning.
The
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
The people who had got the haUbut to fell, artfully jMolongcd their traffic more than was cuftomary, and endeavoured by various methods, to engage our attention ; in the mean time, fcveral canoes paddled flily a-ftern, and feeing fome ikins piled againft one of the cabin windows, one of "ihe Indians thruft his fpear through it, in order to fteal the furs, but perceiving the noife alarmed iiS; they paddled away with precipitation j however, to make them fenfible that we were able to punifh attempts of this fort, even at a dif- tance, w-e fired fcveral mufquets after them, but did not perceive that they were attended with any fatal effects. At eight o'clock, the extremes of the land bore from North 53 deg. Weft to South 52 deg. Eaft, about three miles diftant from fliore. During the night we had light winds, and cloudy weather.
It being pretty evident from ourlaft traders, that few more fui"s could be expected from this part, Vind the time being nearly elapfed when we were to join the Ring George, at Xootka Sound, Cap- tain Dixon judged it moft prudent to make the bell of his ., ay thi- ther, cfpeciallyas the light variable v/incis with frequent inters!!- ins calms, which now conlbntly attended us, made it vcrv pro- bable, that we lliould be fome time in effe^ling our pnrpofe ; tin fame reafon ecpially operated againft our making any further pro- grels to the Northward.
In the forenoon of the 31ft, we ftood to the South Eaft ; on founding we ftruck the ground with a line of fixty fathom over a fandy bottom. At noon the Southermoft land bore South by Ealt,. about ten leagues dillant. Our latitude was 52 (i"g. 36 min North. I.")uring the afternoon md night we had light aii^, tlie weather tolerably fine,
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In tin- forenoon of the ifl of Aiigull, vvc had a heavy fwell from the Southward. At noon wc (aw CJape St. James, which bore South 5 dcg. Eall. Our latitude was 52 deg. 10 min. North j the: nearcll hiuvl three leagues diftaut. At eight in the cvenine;, the extremes of the land bore from South 14 deg. Well, to North 54 dcg. Well:, two leagues dillant.
Towards the clofe of the day, a canoe with fourteen people came along-fide, but they had fcarcely any thing to fell ; they gave us to underdand, that one of their companions was dead of the wounds he received from our muAjuets ; and at the fame time endeavourcil to make us fenfdilc, that they were not at variance with us on that account : indeed they came along-fide the vellel without the leall" fear, and it is probable that the defign of their vifit was to inform lis of the above circumllance.
During the night wc had conftant heavy rain, the weather thick and hazy.
In the morning of the 2d we had a light breeze from the Eaftward, the weather iVdl thick and hazy. At noon, Cape St. James bore South South Weft, about four leagues diftant. At five in the aftcr- Jioonthe rocks off the Cape bore South 36 deg. Weft, two leagues diftant ; the weather was thick and hazy, the wind light and varia- ble, and foon afterwards it fell calm, with a heavy Ivvell from the South Eaft. Our fituation was now dangerous, for wc had every reafon to think, ':hat the veiiel was drifting direclly upon the rocks, and tlic weather was fo very hazy, that vvc could not difccrn any object a cable's length from the fhip. A little after nine o'clock the fog rather dif[)erfing, we faw the rocks oft' Cape St. Janus, bearing South Weft, within Icfs than a mile of us ; on this, rhc
whale-
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NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
whale-boat and j )lIy-boat were hoifted out, and fent a-head to tow the veflel. Providentially about this time, the fwell abated, and the fea grew tolerably fmooth, fo that the boats were of great fer- vice. At ten o'clock we had foundings with loo fathom line, over a rocky bottom : at eleven we flruck bottom with eighty-five fathom, and at twelve, with feventy-five fathom ; afterwards we got no bottom with a line of 120 fathom, which gave us reafon to hope that we were fafely part the rocks
At one o'clock in the morning of the 3d, a light breeze fpring- ing up at North Eaft, the boats were hoiiled in, and all the peo- ple, except the watch on deck, fent to their hammocks ^ but at two o'clock, we plainly heard the furf beat againfl: tlie rocks, on which, the people were immediately tu/ned uj^, the boats again hoifted out, and fent to tow the vellel a-head ; the weather was thick ar^d hazy, attended with conftant drizzling rain.
At four o'clock, a frefli breeze coming on from the Soutliwardi the boats v\ere again hoifted in. At five, we tacked and ftood to thtf South Weft. At feven, we faw the rocks bearing Weft Nortii Weft, about a mile diftant. 7 iie forenoon was thick and hazy ; but rather clearing at eleven o'clock, we faw t'ae rocks bearing Well by South, five miles diftant. Our latitude at noon was 51 dcg. 50 min. North. During the afternoon and evening, we Ivid tVelh breezes at South and South Weft, with hazy weather. At tight o'clock, Cape St. James bore Weft half South, diftant five leagues; fo that we now concluded ourfelves well clear of that once formi- dable place.
As the lllands we have juft left proved fo imcommonly fortunate to us, a few remarks concerning them willj perhaps, not be un-
acci'p-
223
1787.
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•acceptable to thcc. 'llicrc Is every rcafon to fuiipofc, not oiiI)i from the number of inlets we met with in coalting along the Ihore, but tVom our meeting the lame inhabitants on the oppofiie fules of the coalt, that this is not one continued land, but rather forms a group of ilLmds ; and as fuch, we ihlVmguilhed them by the name of i^/,v// Charkuc's JJlands. Tlicy are lituated from 5 1 deg. 42 min. to 54deg. 24min. North latitud--and from 130 dcg. to 133 deg. 30 min. Well longitude. The land, in fome plaee,., is coniiderably elevated, but not mountainous, and is totally c<;- Ncrcd with pines, which in many places alTord a pleafmg contrail; to the fnow that pcrjielually covers the higher grounds.
The weather, whlll't we were cruizing here, was generally mild and temperate, the mean of the thermometer 54 deg. The whole time we coalled along from Cloak Bay to Cape St. James, the v.ir.d was generally Heady, at North Well and Well North Well; but no fooner had we doubled the Cape, and got to the North Eall iide of the land, than we fell in with light variable winds and in- tervening calms.
The munber of people wc faw during tlie whole of our traffic, %vas about eight hundred ar.d iifty ; and if we fuppofe an equal number to l)e Lft on lluu.', it \\ ill a.mount to one thoufand fevcii huiulred inhabitant. , which, 1 have reafun to think, will be found tlic ' xtrcir.e liUnib.r of i)a)plc inJiabiting thefe iliaiuls, includiiv; wom.cn and cliildrcn. The great plenty of furs we met with heiv, fulliciently indicated tliat tliefe people have had no intercourfe whi:;- ev.:r with any civilized nation ; and I doubt not, but we may jullly cl.um the lioiiwur cf adding thefjiiland. to the geography t)f this part oi the co;;lK 'Va^ ornaments {kxw amonglb the;M were ve;;. ievv, and 'tis proI)abIe that their hni^e^ and lp;^irs have bee!i ub-
taificd
li
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
tained by war rather than traffic, as there fcems to be an unh^rlal variance amon^rt the (hiiercnt tribes; however, be all this as it may, they umUnibtedly approach much nearer to a ilate of favacjc brutality than any Indians we have fecn on the coalh
The women diftort the under lip in the fame nianner with thofe at Norfolk Sound, but with this difference, that here, this wooden ornament feems to be wore by all the fex indifcriminately, whereas at Norfolk Sound it is confined to thofe of fuperior rank.
The Indians in general are very jealous of their women, and would feldom permit them to come on board ; but this was not nltogcther the cafe with thefe favages, many of whom not only ])ermitted, but urged their females to come on borlrd, whenever invited by our people ; but we foon fovmd that they were not inftigated to pay thefe vifits from any amorous difpofition, but UK'rely for the fake of phmder, as they were by far the moft ja- j'acious thieves we had i'ccn, ftcaling every thing indifcriminately which they could lay their hands on, and that with a degree of dexterity which would not difgracc a difciple of the Ji/Jlitia hulk.
Notwithdanding the general tenor of thefe women's behavioui-, wc met with one inilance of feeling and fenfibility amonglt them which perfectly allonilhed us, and is not, perhaps, ahuiys to be i'ecn amongll the -lex in civilized countries.
It was on the 24th of July, (as I have already related) wlien the natives vifitcd us principally throu.gh curiofity, that a Chief and his wile were very deiirous to iee tlie liiip -, Captain Dixon, willing to gratify them in this jvarticiilar, and tliinking that a light of the vcliel would be a llanding fubject for th^ni to
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A V O Y A (, E TO T HE
talk about, pcrmittc.l them to come on board : tlicy Imd a little child aloni; with ihcm of which they Ccr,-;c<i pnrticvdarly fond, 'and not caring to trull- it with the peop'c in their canoe, the Chief cnmc on board by himfclf, Ic.iving thLir tender chniye witli his wife. When the poor fellow iirit came on ('eck he was a f;;Kv,l deal frightened, and began to fmg and make a number of huniil'- ating gcllures, the intent of which was to imprefs us with a favourable opinion of him. By degrees he grew eafy, and w.is pre- vailed on to go down into the cabin ; having flaid there fome time, he came upon deck, and after fatisfying his curiofity with looking at various things, went into bis canoe very well pleafed.
The woman, after giving her infant a maternal kifs, came over the fide without the leall hcfitation, and when flic got on the quarter deck gave us to undcrlland that flie was only come to fee the vedll, and with a modell diffidence in her looks endeavoured io nelpeak our iiidulgciK e and permillion for that purpofc. She \\ as neatly dreiled after their fafliion ; her under garment, which was made of fine tanned feather, fat clofe to her bcxly, and reached Irom her neck to the calf of her leg : her cloak or upj^er garment was rather coaifer, and fat loofe like a petticoat, and tied with leather Itrings. Having taken notice of every thing which feemed to attract: her attention, Caj)tain Dixon made her a prefent of a Ifring of beads for an ornament to each ear, and a numler of buttons, \vith wJiicli flie was highly pleafed, and made her ac- knowledgments in the bell manner (lie was able. She was fcarcely got into tlie canoe before a number of women flocked about her, and feeing the beads in her ears began to talk very carneftly ; moll probably to tax her with incontinency, for llie immediately clafped her infant to her brealf w ith unfpeakable fondnefs, burll into a flood of tears, and it \v.;b a confiderable time before the foothiiij;s
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227
of her hulliand and the apologies of her fiicnds couU bring bativ 1787, licr former chearfuhicfs and tranciuility. Au^ui^
Harmony being at length reftorcd in the canoe, the Chief held up his child, and endeavoured to make us fenfible that it v/as e(|ually dear to him as his wife ; intimating at the fame time, that though he had received no prefent, yet he hoped wc fliould remember his little one ; on this Captain Dixon gave the child a couple of toes, which pleafcd the chief wonderfully ; a few but- tons were alfo dillributcd amongll: the other women in the canoe, and they left us foon afterwards, perfeclly fatished with their prefents.
To thofe who are fond of tracing human nature through all its various llages> a circumftance of this fort would be peculiaily pleafirtg, but I Ihall forbear to expatiate on the fubjecl, and leave thee to make thy own comments on it.
Though every tribe we met with at thefe iflands is governed by its refpeclive Chief, yet they aie divided into families, each of which appears to have regulations and a kind of fubordinate go- vernment of its own : the Chief ufually trades for the whole tribe; but I have fometimcs obfervcd that when his method of barter has been difapprovcd of, each feparate family has claimed a right to difpofe of their own furs, and the Chief always com- plied with this requeft ; whether or no he receives any emolument v>n thefe occafions I cannot determine.
I often endeavoured to gain fome knowledge of their language, but 1 never could fo mucii as learn the numerals : every attempt I made of the kind either caufed a farcaltic laugh amongll the In-
F f z dians,
l: :i-
i
i
i!
I i
■
i;'
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228
A \' O ^" A G £ TO T II E
(lian?, or was treated by them with filcnt contempt ; indeed manv of tlic tribes who viiited us, were bufied in trading the monicr.t they eame along lidc, antl huriied away as I'oon as their traffic was over: others, again, who ihnd with us tor any length of time, wci-c never of a communicative difpolition, but certainly ikulk^d ah .lit ihe veHe! for fjme evil purpofe, though they never attemotcd to board us, as wo alwa}s kept the greatcll part ol' our people on dock when a number of canoes were near us. If thefc circum- llanccs are duly confidei-ed, I truiV thou wilt not accufe me of iii- atteiUion, though it is nor in my power to give ihee anv fpeeimen of ihe language I'pokcn by thefe j)cop!c j hovve\ er, from what ob- iervations I was able to make, it feems fomething- fimilar to that of the iidiabitants in Norfolk Sound.
In addition to what I have occafionally faid, rcfpecling tiie fa- vage temper and brutal dilpofitiv^n of the people at t'lefe iflands 1 c innot help remarking, that there is a kind of ferocity even in their manner of fmging. It mull be allowed, that their Ibnrs are performed with I'egularily, and in good time, but they arc en- tirely dellitute of that pleafmg modulation and harmony of ca- dence, which we had invariably been accurtomcd to hear in the fongs at otlier jKUts of the coalf.
The lumibcr of f a-otter Ikins purchafeii by us at (:>necn Char- lotte's IHands was no lefs than i,S'.2r, many of them very fine j othei iprs are found in lefs variety here than in many otiier parts ct the coaff, the few racoons before mentioned, a few ])ine martin, and finie fea'.s, being the only kinds we faw. Iocs, at f;i ;i, w» c <iuite a leading article in barter ; but I'o great n number of tiadcrs refpiiredav;uiety of trade, and we were frecpiently obliged to prr;- duce every article in our polllliion, before wc could pleale our nu- merous
illi
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
merous friends. Thus in one fortunate month, has our fucccfs been mueh greater than that probably of boLh veliels during the rell of the voyage.— .^o uncei-lain h the fur trade on tliis inh'^ifpi- table eoalL
I iliall now return to our proceedings. On the morning of the 4th we had a moderate breeze at South Well, and eloudy weather. At noon we faw laml. wineh we judged to be the main, bearing- South 40 deg. Kail, about five leagues dillant. In the afternoon", the wind veered to the Welhvard, and a heavy f-.vcd let in from the fame quarter, the weatlier thiek and ha/y. Duiing the nioht we hauletl our wind, in order to elear the poir.t of land to the Eaffward. In tbie forenoon of the 5th, having ftill a frefli Wcf- terly breeze, wc bore away to the South Half; and at four in the afternoon changed our courle to Eafl by North. I'he weather being thiek and ii;i/.y, we taeked oceafionally during the night. Early in the morning of the 6ih, we made fail, and fleered our courle, vvitii a li elh breeze at North- Well. Our latitude at noon was 49 (leg. 4;) min. North, which was only twelve nfiles to the Northwanl of King (ieorge"s Sound, but we were a coni'.derablc (lilbmec to the Welhvard of it. The afternoon being tolerably c!:.ar, at fix o'eiock, wc faw Woody Point bearing North Wed by Well, about four leagues diilant, and a fplit rock ofi" the pohit, North 2S deg. Weft. At eiglit o'clock, we hauled by the win^l to the St>uth Well : during the night we hail light airs, with calms by turns. The morning of the 7tii was thick and foggy, with a heavy fvvell from the Welhvard, ami quite calm, /it tea o'clock a light bree/.e fprung up at South Ivilr, a.nd tlie fog cleared up. The land at noon bore from r'»'orth Well to Eall South E,al|-, about two leagues didant : the latitude was 49 ik:;^. -;9 miti. North. The breeze contiiuiing very light during the afterno(>n,
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A V ()\ \G E TO THE
tiur progrefs towards t'le foiiiul was very flow, and (Uiring tiic niglit, \M' plictl to the .*:outh Well, making hoards as occafion re- quired.
The morr.inir of the Sth was motleratc and clor.dv, a h;!l>r breeze rtill at South Eall.
A ten o'elock wc faw a fail to tlic South Ea(l, and jircfentK
afterward'j, a iinailer veiicl in eoinpanv. Tills gave us Cnw.-
hopes that they mici;ht pollibly be the King CJeorge and her long
boat. W't- were lleering Eail North Eall, and kept on our courf'e, as
we plainly faw the veil lis w ei'e bearing down upon us : on the theii
nearer approach, wo tour.d tliat it could not be Captain Portlock,
;;s the fmall i:'il was much too large for his long f-oat. Various
now were out conjecfares wlio they could be, or what country
they came from -, and Captain Dixon wilhing to be fatis ied in this
particular, gave orders to tack, and fire a gun to leeward. The fmall
vedel immediately anfvvcred this iignal, and hoilled our Company's
colours : bv twelve o'clock they i] okc us, ami we learned, to our
great joy, that they were from London, und f, ^ted out by our
Owners. The Ihij) was called the Prince of Wales, Captain Col-
linett ; and t.ie Hoop, the Princefa Royal, Captain Duncan.
We had the pleafure oi hearing in general, that our friends in Engl nd \\uc in good health; but few of us had i'uch j)articulars AS co«dd have been wilhed fwr, as (by (ome miltake or othe:) wl* wei -x])cctcd to arrive in Ix)ndon river the latter end oi' this lea/bn.
Thefe veHels left England in September, ij^G, and had (ittlcd a factory .ri Siateuh land, for the puipole of collecting feal ikinand oil, frwin thence they had niade the belt of iheir way to King (I'ecM'gc's Souml, without touc'iing at .my oth.er place. .Di.iir,g
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
io lone; :i ivaflhgc, tlic fcurvy had got a great height among ihcni, and though providentially no Uves had been loll, yet many of their people recovered very llowly.
On our enquiry wliat courfe they fleered after doubling Cape Horn, we Vvei-; informed that tb.ev crolied the line about 1 16 deir. VVeft longitude, in this lituation they fell in with liglit bafding winds and freqr.v-nt calms, attended with clufe gloomy fuitry weather, and much laii'., which certainly occahoncd the very fe- verc ficknefs that IukI prevailed amongft them.
We croffed the line in April, 1786, nearly in the fame longi- tude, and met with light vai'iable winds and gloomy weather, 'till we llrctched coniiderably to tiie Wcftvvard, when we again had a icgular trade-wind. Thefe circumftances evidently fhew tliat fuch a comic ought to be avoidecl ; and Captain Dixon obfcrved that it would be by far the bell: for all vell'els bound to the North- Wed: conil of America, after doubling Cape Horn, to dter direcily for the Marquefas ; there they might obtain refrellmients, and at the lame time would be lb well to the Wellward, that in the fartiier prufecution of their voyage, he had every reafon to think, they would efcape thofe climates which we iiad cxj)erimentally found 10 be fo very unhealthy.
Mr. John latches, brother to our managing owner, (v\ho was on boardthe i'rince of Wales) inibrnied me th;ir they iiad Iven near a month in King CJeorge's Soui\d, but had done veiy httle bufmefs, having found a Ihip there called the Imperial Ivagle, 'ommanued by a Captain Berkley. She failed from O.lend the Jitter end of November, i~!"'6, and arrived at Ki'.ig CV..<rgi's bound near a mouth bcfoje tJie Prince of Wulcs and I'rincefs Roy .1.
Captain
-.5^
17S7.
I (
A V O Y A G E T O T II i:
Captain Eerkcly fiequcntly boaftcd to Mr. ICtches what an ex- cellent carr;o of Ikins he had purchafed, and indeed there h Ibinc realon to luppole that he had been tolerably lueeelsfuJ from tlio i.)llv)V'in;; eircuiniranco.
Two vcfVels from Bombay were at King George's Scnnul in tlie finnnier of 17S6, and left one of their people behind; this man was found here by Captain Berkely, who gave the followino- ac- 'joLint of him.
His name is Jolm M'Key; ho was boiii in Ireland, and went
to Bjmbav m the \]i\[\ India Com
pany's terviee. Two veliel;
(viz. t!ie Captain Cjok, Captain I.orie; and the r:x[Kriment, Cap
Guife)
wc
North Welt coalt of A
re littnig out m 17S5, on an expedition to the
mencn
that
.e en
6"6
ffcd on board the
Captam Cook as Surgeon. 'J hey failed from Bombay the 20'th of N'ovembcr, 17S5, and arrived at King George's Sound the 27th
June, iy'S6, That being very ill of a pu.ple fever 1
le was
l.fr behind for the lecovcrv of his healtl
I, at the retjueir of .Mi
Strange, the 'Mij-ercargo to borli veilels. Mr. Strange dchrcd him to learn the language and t*) ingratiate himlllf with the native^, fo that if any other veliels ihouKI toueh there he might prevent tlveni from iiiireiiaiing any t'uvi^, proiuiling at the fime tune t;) return lor him the eiifuin:
iirui
<)'J0 \1\'
im.
That the t.vo veliels j)rocuie(i lea o;ter ikins (Kn-ing their Ifay here, and left the Sound
the 27th of julv, intending to fail for Cook's River. 'J hat the ."r'ea Gttcr, Cajmin Ilatma, fioin China, arrived at King CJeoiges Sound in Augulf, 17 ■:6, and that Captain Hanna oiRred to take iuni on l)oar<l, v liich he reful'.d, alledging, that he began to relilli
fll
1 a.iu
i whale oil, was fitisticd w 1th h
IS wav of life,
aiK
I
perfcetly contented to day "lill next year, when he h.;d no d.vuht
■ ^ it
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
of Mr. Strange lending for lii-.n : tluic Cjptain Ilauna i'.k die SounJ in September. 'Jluit the natives IkuI ihippcd him of his cloaths, and obliged him to adopt their mode of (hei's and filtlii- nefs of manners ; ami that he was now a perfeel mr.tler of their htnguagc, and well accjtiainted with their temper arid difpofition. lie had made fieqvient incurlions into t!ie interior parts of the country about King Cieorge's Sound, and did not think any part of it was the Continent of America, but a chain of detached iilands.
•-■■J
A I
.7^N.
i;
Mr. Etches (from whom I had this intelligence) afTured me that no great dependance could be placed on M'Kcy's llory, he being a very ignorant yoiuig fellow, and freepieinly contratlijting him- i'elf; but that entire credit might be given to that part of it rc- fpecting his ailopting the maimers of the natives, as he was equally llovenly and dirty with the filthiell of them all. His knowledge of the language was greatly Ihort of what he boalled ; neither was he very contented in his fituation, for he gladly embraced Cai)tain Berkley's oifer of taking him on board, and feemed delighted to think he was going to leave i'o uncomfortable a place : however, admitting liim to be pollelled of but an ordinary capacity, he cer- tainly mull be better acciuaintcd with the people here, from more than a year's refulence amonglt them, than any occafional vifitor could poliiblybe; and there ca;\ be no doubt but that Captain Berkley found him extremely ufeful in managing his traffic with the nati\es.
Our meeting with thcfe vedcl.-; was very fortunate, botli on their account and our own. What we learnt from them rendered it en- tirely ufelefs foi- us to miike King George's Sound, and Pi-incc William's iiound being tluir next dellination, we not only could
C; jr infonu
ii
■i I
234
17S7.
A VOYAGE TO THE
inform them that nothing coula be expcjled from that quarter, but at the fame time point out th'; Ukelicli lituations where furs might be procured ; and Cajitain Dixon uiged them by all means to make the N. E. fide of Queen Charlotte's lllands, and the oppollte land, wliich we judged to be the main.
In the evening of the Sth, Mr. Etches and both the Captains came on board us, and llaid all night; in order to lofe no time in procuiing a chart of the coaft, and in procuring eveiy infor- mation, in our power. During the afternoon and night we lay to, and at times made occafional boards, as fuited our conveniency for keeping company, and to be at a proper diftance from the land.
At nine o'clock in the morning of the 9th, we parted company with our new brothers in trade, fainting them with three hearty cheers, and wifhing them fuccefs at leaft equal to our own. My next fhall be a few general remarks concerning the coail. Adieu. Thine,
Off King George's Sound, Auguft gtli.
W.B.
LETTER XXXVIIL
As we are now taking our final leave of the American cnaft, a few remarks concerning it, in addition to what I have occafionally faid, will, perhaps, now je unacceptable to thee.
Befu:c
Hi
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Before Captain Cook's lall voyage to the Pacific Ocean, this part of the coatl was little known. The celebrated Rullian navi- gator, Beering, in the year 1741, fell in with the land in the latitude 58 dcg. 28 niin. North, and anchored in 59deg. 18 min. But the account which is publilhed of his voyage is very impcr- i'ctt and inaccurate.
The Spaniards too, are probably well acquainted with the coaft a little to the Southward of King George's Sound, and about Cape Edgconibe, at both which places they anchored in 1775; and I have reafon to think that their knowledge of this part of the con- tinent is confined to thofe particular lituations.
What has been already fald will fliew that the principal places afcertained with accuracy by Captain Cook, were King George's and Prince William's Sounds, and the river named after him ; and no doubt it was from the plenty of furs he found in thofe har- bours that this trade was tiril let on foot. Our rivals frofti the Indies certainly drew their informal on from the fame fourcc ; and this, in fomc refpccf s, has not been unlucky on our ilde ; for they, not expecting to meet with i'urs 'n any other places than thofe mentioned by Cook, quietly iat down with what they could get in thofe harbours, and confet[uently we had to leek for other re- fources, or return home empty handed. By this means wc fell in with (^ccn Cliarlotte's lilands, which (as 1 have already Ihewn) fuipadcil our moll fanguine exjiecta'.ions, and afforded a greater (juantiiv of furs than, perhaps, any place hitherto known.
That wc have made ».onfuieiable additions to the geograpliy of this coull^, cannot be ti^nied, yet much remains to be done ; in- *iad, to impcrfcctiv do we itili know 11, that it i*- in fomc mcallnc
t; ^- z to
1787.
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to be (louhlcl whether we h.:ive yet Iccn the mani land; cert.ilii i- is that tlie coail ahoumls wiili iilands, but idrtlvr cmv hmd -.. biK\^ km near h ra^lh tic comlnoi!, ix-inains to be dctermhicd b\ future navi^:;ators : Thus nuieh we can venture to aliirm, {.wA uhich is of the //>•// coniajuencc to tliii iindertakuig) that tlie fur trade is inexhaullible whcMcvcr there arc inhabitants, and they (experience te'ls u^) are not conlir.ed to any particular lituation. but are feattered in tribes all along the coaft, which (as fai as concerns future travlers to examine) extends from 40 to 61 dcL^ North latitude; and from 12O to 155 i\q^. Well longitude.
This valt country (with very little deviation) has the appear- ance of one contin-icd for^-ll, being co\ered with pines of ditHrent fpecies, and thele intermixed with aUler, birch, witch-hazle, (5cc. befides various kinds ot bru(h-wood ; and the vallies and low grounds, which are cxpofed to the iun, and iheltered front the A\ind, afioid wild currants, gooieberries, ralberries, and various other tlowcry lln-ubs. The f -il on the hills is a kind of compoiV, confilting of rotten mols and old decayed trees. This is frequently waflied down into the vallies by the Hidden melting of the fnow, and there incorporating with a light fand, forms a i'oil in which moll of our garden j)roductions might be cultivated with lucccfs.
The climate, as may be expeaed, i:, various but; I do not ib/mk it fo tcmj>erate even in King George's Sound as in England, iw the hills of a moderate height arc perpetually covered witf iiiow.
I have already enumerated the various kinds of birds ar,d nr.- rme produciion:, we have met with. What account I can give of til'.; quadrupeds thou mayeil cullca: from the \aiious ikins i)ur-
' r
NOR TIT-WEST COAST OF AMERICa!
chafed by us. Tlic only animals u-c fcnv ainongfl the natives, were (logs, they are of the wolf kind, vxtv large, and appear quite do- mdhcatcd. There is Uttle doubt of variety of metals and mine- rals hcuvr found here. I have already obib-ved,-that we found a vein of coals m Cook's River. The paint uicd by the natives in dauomg tlien- faces and bodies, appears chiefly to be black lead and j-ed oker ; and we frequently faw large circular wreaths of copper both at Norfolk ^ound and Queen Charlotte's Ifland. which did not appear to be foreign manufaaure, but twidcd into that fliape by the natives themfelv.s, to wear as an ornament aboul UK neck.
What number of inhabitants this extent of coaft may contahi, . IS not ca(y to determine with any degree of certainty; but froni a moderate computation, there cannot be lefs than' 10,000 ; in- deed, appearances might warrant the conjeclure of their being confiderably more, as the women appear very prolliic, (every trll.e we ihw having numbers of young children) and the people areto- ■fally free from that long catalogue of difeafes, which luxury and intemperance have introduced amongfl more civilized nations. Hut then it muft be remembered, that neighbouring tribes are generally at war wiili each other, and thefe coimnotions, botli f/om the nature of tiieir weapons, and the favage difpolition of t)ie i)eople, mull be attended with fatal confe(juencej ; be.'kles, •Jiere is realbn to iuj)po(e th.ir nunibeij are lolf at fca, as thev l^o out to a very conliderable diifance a fiihing, and fhould ha;! ue^i- ■her fuddenJy come on, it is impoliible iur tlieir canoes to live. Theie cireumllanee. cutainly tend to (lepoj)ulate the country, and .'11 fume mcafure account for its being fo thinly inhabited. '
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A V O Y A G E T O T II E
The peoj>lo In general are about the middle fizc, their limlK ftraight, and tolerably well-fliajK-d ; many of the older people are rather lean, but I never finv one perfon who could be called cor- l)ulent amongll them: both fexcs arc remarkably dirtinguiilied by high prominent cheek bones and fmail eyes. A love of din and tilth is univerially predominant all over the coad. In regard to their complexion, it is no eafy matter to determine what ca(t that is ; but it' I may judge from the few people I (aw tolerably clean, thefe Indians are very little darker than the Europeans in
general.
The hair of both fi>\es is long and black, and would be an or- namcnt to them, were it not for the large quantities of greafe and red oker conllantly rubbed into it, which not only gives it a dif- guiling appearance, but affords a never-failing harbour for ver- min. Sometimes, indeed, the women keep their hair in decent order, parting it from the forehead to the crown, and tying it be- hind after the manner of a club.
! I
I I
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The young men have no beards, and I was at firft inclined to think that this arofe from a i\atural want of hair on that part, but I was foon undeceived in this particular, for all the men we Ihw, who were advanced in years, had beards all over the chin, and fome of them whilkers on each fide the upper lip.
As this fuppofed defea amongit the n.-.tives of America has oc~ calioned much fj)eculative enquiry amonglV the learned and inge- nious, I took every opportunity of learning now it was occafioned, and was given to underlhmd, that the yoimg men got rid of their beards by plucking them out, but that as they advance in vears, the hair is luHered to grow.
In
I I
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
In their drcfs, there is little variety ; ilie men generally wearing coats (fuch as 1 have aheatly delciibed; made of I'uch ikins as fancy fuggclis, or their fuccefs in hunting furniihcs them with, and fometimes the loofe cloak thrown over the ihoulders, and tied with fmall leather firings. Eefidcs this, fume of tlie more ci- vilized fort, particularly thofe in Cook's River, wear a fniall piece of fur tied round the waill, when the heat of the day caufes them to throw their coat afide, or they are difpofed to fell it. The drefs of the women dirters in fome refpcJts from that of the men : their under garment is made of tine taiuied leather, and covers the body from the neck to the ancle, being tied in dificrcnt parts to make it fit clofe : over this is tied a piece of tanned leather like an apron, and which reaches no higher tlian the waill ; the upper garment is made in much the fame manner as the men's coats, and generally of tanned leather, the women not caring to wear fius, as they were always unwilling to be flrii)ped of their gar- ments, which, fliould they happen to be worth purchafmg, their hulbands alway in fitted on their being foldj indeed, the deport- ment of the women in general was decent, modell, and becom-
It might be inivigined, that the children of thefe flivagcs would enjoy the free and unreftrained ufe of their limbs from their car- hell infancy; this, however, is not altogether the cafe: three pieces of bark are faflened together, fo as to form a kind of chair, the infant, after being wrapped in fuis, is put into this chaij-, and laflied fo clofe, that it cannot alter its pollurecven with llruggling; and thccliair is fo contrived, that when a mother wants tj feed her child, or give it the breafl:, there is no occafion to rclealc it from its ihackles. Soft mols is ufed by the Indian niufe to keep her child clean , but little regard is paid to this article, and the poor
infant;;
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irSj. infants are often terribly excoriated, nay, ! have frequently ftcn Au;'u(l ^^.^^.g ^^- j-^ orfeven years old, vvhofe polleriors have born exUcnt marks of this neilecl: m then infancy.
Ornaments feem to differ in particular places more than drcfs ; for inllance— the aperture, or fecond mouth, a little above the chin, feems conhned to the men of Cook's River and Prince William's Sound ; vvhilll the wooden ornament in the under lip is wore by the women onlv. in that pait of the coall from Poit Mulirravc to Queen Charlotte's Illands.
Beads arc held i)i much greater clHmation in t!ic harbours firrt: mentioned than any where elfe within our obfervation. Thefe or- naments were undoubcely introduced here by the Rullians, wiu) have conftantly traded with thefe people for many years pall, aiul beads have been jrenerally ufed in barter, fo that if wc make this a rule for judging how far the Ruflians have had a diredt inler- courfe on the coall, it will appear that they have not been to tlic Ealhvard of Cape Hinchinbrook : and I think this conjedure i\\r from improbable.
There is at leall two or three different languages fpoken on tiie coaff, and vet probably they are all pretty generally underllood ; though if we may credit the old Chief at (^een Charlotte's Illands, his pcojile were totally ignorant of that fpoke by the iidiabitants to the Eaftward, and which we judged to be the continent : tluy all appear uncoiith and difficult to pronounce; yet though tlii.y abound in confonants, the words have rather a labial and dental, than a guttural pronunciation : however, I Hiall fubjoin the nu- merals ufed by the natives of Prince William's Sound, Norfolk 5ound, and King George's Sound, which will give thee a better
idea
I i 4
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
idea of thcfe different languages than any defcription of mine can poflibly do ; at the fame time let me obferve, that thofe uied at King George's Sound w^ie furnilhcd me by a friend whom I met with on 'board the Prince of Wales, otherwife thou mighteil wonder at my prefumption in fending thee the language of a place I never faw.
2A1
Augull
Prince If^illlam's Sound and Cock's River. |
Norfo'.k Sound, |
King George's Soun |
|
Onf |
Afl-hlenach |
Tlaafch |
Sorvvock |
Two |
Malchnach |
Taafch |
Athlac |
Three |
Pinglulin |
Noofch |
Catdi |
Four |
Staachman |
Tackoon |
Moo |
Fii'e |
Talchman |
Kcichin |
Soutcha |
Six Seven Eight Nine |
Inglulin could not be afccrtaincd. |
Ctletufch' ifli Takatufchulh Noofchatufchufli Koofchulli |
Noctpoo Athlaooo Athl.iqucll Sarvaccjucil |
Ten |
Coolin. |
Chincart. |
Highhoo. |
Thcfe numerals arc fjiclt as near the mode of pronunciation as I poflibly can, and yet it is not in my power to fj^eak them any thing like the natives. In regard to pronunciation, the inlialn- tants of Cook's River ai'c the molt j)erfect I ever met vviih or lieard of; they will repeat the moll diHicult Engliih wwah with great eal'e, and particularly thofe that begin or end with //•, thougli Europ.-ans in general are imable to do it.
I have already given .*- ■; fome delcripiion of the canoes 111 gcnerpl, and I Ihall jull add, that the fmall ones in Cook's River arc about eiglueeu or nineteen feet long, and curved at e.iJi eiui,
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2^1
A VOYAGE TO THE
I- I
AlllHlft.
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Ibinctliinj like the neck of a violin ; they arc conftructed of ribs of fleiulcr l.ith, niul covered with feal ikins. Their hunting and filliiiig implements are fattened with ftraps on the outfide of the canoe, fo as to be laid hold of the moment the hunter fees his prey. The nnglc canoes are rowed with fmail double bladed paddles, and arc managed by thefe people with great dexterity.
Befules the ornaments already mentioned, the Indians arc very fond of malks or vilors, and various kinds of caps, all of which are painted with dill'erent devices, fuch as birds, beafts, fiflics, an 1 fometimes reprcfentations of the human face; they have likewile many of thcCe devices carved in wood, . . fome of them far from being ill executed.
Thcfe curi'jfities feem to be greatly valued, and are carefully packet! in neat fquare boxes, that tney may the more conveniently be carried about.
Whenever any larpjc party came to irade, thefe treafures were firfl: proiluced, and the principal perfons drelled out in all their finery before the finding commenced. In addition to this, the Chief (w!io always conducts the vocal concert) puts on a large ccat, made of llie elk (kin, tanned, round the lower part of which is one, or fomctinies two rows of dried berries, or the beaks oi birds, which make a rattling noil'e whenever he movee. In his h.md he has a raitle, or more commonly a contrivance to anfwer the fanvj en 1, whicli is of a circular form, about nine inches in diameter, and mule (;f three I'rnall (licks bent round at dilTerent di(ra;ices froin each otlier: great numbers of birds beaks and dried berries arc tied to this curious in(bument, which is (hook bv the c hi'.f with g.e.it '^Kc, and in his opinion makes no fmall addition
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NORFOLK SOUND previous to commencing trade
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NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
to the concert. Their foiigs generally confift of levcral ftanzas, to each of which is added a chorus. The beginning of each llanza is given out by the Chief alone, after which both men and women join and fing in o6laves, beating time regularly with their hands, or paddles : meanv hile the Chief fliakes his rattle, and makes a thoufand ridiculous gefticulations, fmging at intervals in different notes from the reft ; and this mirth generally continues near half an hour without intermiflion.
I fliall here write down, in notes, a fong which I often heard whilft we lay in Norfolk Souna : my knowledge of the Icicnce is fo very fuperficial that I can fay but very little as to its accuracy j however, it will ferve to convey a better idea of the mulic ufed on the American coaft than any othc mode of defcription can do > at the fame time it fhould be obfervec , tliat they have a great va- riety of tunes, but the method of performing them is univerfally the fame.
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Whether or no they make ufe of any hieroglyphics to perpetuate the memory of events, I cannot lay, though their numerous draw- ings of birds and filhcs, and their carved reprelentations of ani- mals and human faces, might, perhajis, warrant a fuppofition of the kind. Many of thefe carvings are v>'<;ll proportioned, and ex- ecuted with a confiderable degree of ingenuity, which ajipcars rather extraordinary amongft a people fo remote froiii civilizcil rttinement. But then we mull conlider thai this art is far from being in its infancy ; a fondnefs for carving and Iculpture was dil'eovercd amongft thefe people by Captain Cook : iron impLments were then alfo in ufe ; and their knives arc fo very tliln that tlity bend them into a variety of forms, which anfvver their every pur- pofe nearly as well as if they had recourfc to a carpenter's tool
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tiicil. At v.h;it ivjiiotl iron was introiUicccl on this coaft is vciy unccitiiin, but it nirlt doubllel'i be ;i conliilcrablo time ;igo ; and 1 in IV vcniuie to aiiert that their implements arc not of Ei^.glirn manutactine, I'o that their is little doubt ot their being obtained iVom the Ruilians. The only implement I law, (iron excepted) was a toe made of /'.;//('•, the lumc as thole uled by the New Zealandeis.
- i
The in !_cnuity of thcfe people is not confmed to devices in wood, or drawings on baik ; they manufadure a kin.' of variegated blanket or cloak, ibmething like our iiorfe cloths ; they do not a[)pear to be wove, but made entirely by hand, nnd are neatly linilhed : I imagine thefe cloaks are made of wool collected from ll\e ikins of bealh killed in the chace ; they are held in great efti- niation, and only wore on extraordinary occafions.
Bcfides the fkin coats and cloaks wore in common, they have large coats purpofely for war, made of the elk fkin, tanned, and wore double, fometimes threefold. Their weapons are fpears fixed to a pole fix or eight feet long, and a kind of fliort dagger, which is wore in a leather cafe, and tied round the body : to this dagger a leather thonir is faflened, at the end of which is a hole for the middle finger, the leather is afterwards twitted round the wrill, in order to fix the dagger firm in the handj fo that the warrior .'ofcs his weapon only witli his life.
r
Food m the winter feafon confifts chiefly of dried fifli, but when tlie time of hunting comes on, they have greater variety, amongft w hich broiled feal feems to be reckoned a moft delicious repalt i they fometimes olfered us pieces of it, and on our refufing this dainty, always looked at us with a mixture of aftonifliment and
contempt.
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
contempt. In the fj)iiiig, or rather fummcr, here are variety of herbs which the natives eat with great rehlh ; and in Norfolk Sound, wc faw the vviUl lilly root in abundance. Though thefe ])0()r favages are in their general manners truly in a flate of un- cultivated barbarifiM, yet in one initance they can boaft of a re- finement equal to that of more polite nations, and that is gaming, which is carried on here to as gieat a pitch (compai'atively fpeak- ing) as at any of our moderate fadiionable clubs. The only gam- ing implements I faw, were fifty-two fmall round bits of wood, about the fize of your middle finger, and differently marked with red paint. A game is played by two perfons with thefe pieces of wood, and chiefiy tonfifls in placing them in a variety of pofi- tions, but I am unable to defcribe it minutely. The man whom I before mentioned our having on board at Port Mulgrave, loft a knife, a fpcar, and feveral toes at this game in lefs than an hour: though this lofs was at leaft equal to an Englifli gamefter lofing his eftate, yet the poor fellow bore his ill-fortune with great pa- tience and equanimity of temper.
2X>
1787. Aii^uil.
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Time is calculated by moons, and remarkable events are re- membered with cafe for one generation, but whether for any longer period is very doubtful.
Sea otter fkins ire the ftaple commodity in the fur trade, the other varieties we have met with I have before enumerated, and I was informed by Mr. Etches, that King George's Sound produced as many different forts of fkins as Cook's River : I have a'fo taken notice of the articles moft acceptable in barter, and fliall only add on that head, that copper is almoft the only article in requefl at King George's Sound j and though faws are obvioufly of the greatefl ufe to the Indians, yet we found them fo little va- j hied,
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1787.
Anguft.
A VOYAGE TO THE
lued, that they would fcarcely take a faw for a feal (kin j but time ami ulc will no doubt teach them the value both of thefeand other utenfils left by us on the coaft.
I have now taken notice of every circumilance refpecfting thefe people that fell within my immediate obfcrvation. I might indeed fpin my letter into a volume, with notions merely conjcchiral ; fuch as the origin of thefe peoj>lc, from what country they tiiil: emigrated, &;c. 6cc. but as conje(l:l:ures are fometimes partial, often uncertain, and therefore inconclufivc, I am fure thou wilt be pleafed that I do not trouble thee with any thing of the kind, and wilt perhaps think me fufficiently tedious already — fo tliat I fliall conclude, with perfe6l allurances of unalterable cfteem and attachment, thine, &c.
Dated at Sea, 1 Auguft J5tli. I
W. B.
LETTER XXXIX.
HAV I N G already given thee every information in my pnwci refpeding the dreary and inhofpitablc American coali, I fliall return to our proceedings on board. I have already oblerv- cd, that we parted with our new friends in the moruini; of tiie 9th of Auguft, they fleering for Queen Charlotte's I Hands, and we fliaping our courfe for Sandwich lllands, in iar better li)Irits
tlian
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NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
^7
thru wlicn wc left the coall lad year. At lo o'clock, Woody 1787. J'oint bore NOith by F.all 7 leagues dillant j our latitude at noon .^^g"'^- was 49 dei;. 30 niin. and the longitude 128 deg. 10 min. Weft.
From this to the 12th, wc had a frefli fteady breeze at North Welt, with moderate weather. Oar latitude at noon on the 12th, was 44 deg. 22 min. North j and 131 dcg. 59 min. Weft longi- tude.
From the 12th to the 15th, we had chiefly light variable winds, with calms by turns. Early in the morning of the 16th, a frefli breeze again iprung up at North North Weft. Our latitude at noon was 41 deg. 41 min. and the longitude by lunar obfervation 131 deg. Weft.
For fome days paft, we had fcen an innumerable quantity of curious animal and vegetable fiibftanccs floating on the water, called by Tailors, Portugueze men of war ; the bottom part is about two inches long, oval, and of a purple colour ; the upper part is quite thin and expanded, nearly in the ihape of u fan. We found the variation of the compafs here 16 deg. 16 mhi. Eaftcrly. Our latitude at noon on the 17th, was 40 deg. 8 min. North i and the longitude 133 deg. 26 min. Weft.
The wind hauled gradually to theNortlnvard and Eaftward, and by tlie 21ft we might be laid to have a regular North Eaft trade: o\[v latitude at noon was 34 deg. 28 min. North; and the longitude by lunar obfervation i t,() deg. 20 niiii. Weft. The wind continued picityconftantat North-Eaft, aud the weather in genera] moderate iuid line.
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1787, On the 2cl of September, being in 20 deg. 1 min. North lati-
.-^"^'"'^•. tude and 1 50 deg. 3 min. Weft longitude, we fteered due Weft, in order to make Owhyhee, the princijul of the Sandwicli Iflands.
Our latitude at noon on the 3d was 19 deg. S5 "i'"- Nonh, and our longitude, being the mean of fevcral fets lunar obfcrva- tions, 152 deg. 9 min. Weft.
At fix o'clock in the morning of the 5th we faw Owhyhee, wliith bore from South South Weft to Weft, one-fourth North, about four- teen leagues diftant ; the latitude at noon was 20 deg. 4 min. aiui the longitude, by lunar obfervation, 154 deg. 41 min. Weft. The breeze growing light, we could not fetch the land by day-light, lo that at fix o'clock we hauled our wind to the Northward, niakiiiij occafional boards during the night.
This pafTage, from the American coaft to Owhyhee, has been by far the moll favourable of any ■'ve have experienced during the voyage ; wc have performed it in lefs than a month, whereas wc cx- pecied to have been at Icaft five weeks : however, we had fixlli icnlon to admire the goodnefs of Providence, which had been ui'.ii us during the whole of our voyage, and more particularly in tii;; inilar.ce, for the fcurvy had already made a rapid progrels aniongil: the lliip's company, fcarcely a perl'on on board being free from its baneful infiucncc, and fevcral of our jieople rendered incapa!)lc of doing their duty, fo that had the pafiage hither been Iop.j, .v.id tedious, it doublefs would have proved fatal to many of us, lun- v.'ithftanding every antifcorbutic on board was adminiftcred in the moft liberal manner ; but the hope of fpeedily procuring raih pork and vegetables now infufed new life and vigour into (.very perfon.
I Hull
V
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NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
245>
I fliall juft obferve licrc, that our people, w hllc on the coall, had 1787. failed large quantities of halibut, and always eat it in preference ^^l^^fj]|]^* to the fhip's beef and pork. Whether or no their devouring this fait fifli, at no kind of allowance, might accelerate the fcorbutic complaint, I leave to the faculty to determine.
But to return. — At feven o'clock in the morning of the 6th wc bore away to the Weftward, and feeing a number of canoes coming from the land, we hove to in order to trade with them : the people brought great plenty of fmall hogs and potatoes, and were as fond as ever of iron, though we were afraid that the Im- perial Eagle, and feveral of the Dcngal Ihips, touching here, woi:!d have been prejudicial to the trade.
By ten o'clock a vafl: number of canoes were along-fide us, and the Indians traded very eagerly, many of them climbing up the fliip's fide for that purpolc, and numbers merely to gratify their curiofity, and look for any thing they could run away with. One of this lad defcription, watching his opportunity whilft: all of us were bufily engaged with the traders, Ihatched a poker from the Armourer's forge and jumped over board with it. We called to him repeatedly to bring it back, but all in vain, the fellow fwam off with it, and fcemcd remarkably well plerifcd with his acquifitlon : prefcntly one of the canoes pickcil him up, and they paddled away for the ihore. On this our Ca])tain ilctermined to ma!;e an example of him, and the more Co, as if he was fu.'rcred to cicapc with impunity, wc fliould find it imjjofiible to tnu'.c with fuch , a multiplicity of people, without being continually fuhjccl to their depredations : on which feveral mulkcts were fired at the thitf, and we prcfontly faw that he was very fcvercly wounded, by his Weeding profulely. After fome time, his companions were j^cr-
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1787.
September.
th
A VOYAGE TO THE
fuadcd to bring lum along- fide, and we got him on board. The ball had ib'ick his under-jaw, and hurt part of the upper-lip. Our Surgeon drefied the wound in the bell manner he was able, and we fent the poor fellow a\^• ..' ; but before! he left us, he pe- titioned the Captain for a toe, a.iil i c*:cived it.
The Indians were not in the leaft intimidated by this circum- ftance, but traded wirh us prcfently alter wards, as if notliing had happened.
It was not jur Captain s intention to anchor at this ifland, but ply off and on occafionally, in order to procure a good fupply of hogs and vegetables, and all the line we could meet with, thia part of Owhyhee affording great plenty of fifliing-lines, which we had found, by expe'ience, to be paiticularly ufeful in making ropes for various purpofes.
At noon we faw Mowee, the Eaft end of which bore North 56 deg. Weft, about twelve leagues dirtant, and the extremes of Owhyhee, from South 76 deg. Weft to North 30 deg. Eaft, about eight miles diftant from ftiore: our laiitude was :,o deg. i7min. North.
'Vhe weather during the 7th being moderate, we pHed occafi- onady, as bcft fuited our conveniency for trading v/ith the people,, who Lept fupplying us with hogs and vegetables ; fo that by the evening we had got an ample fupply of provifioiis.
At fr: o'clock in the morning of the 8th, having a frefliEafterly breeze and hue weather, we ftood along the Ihore, forthe Weitcr- moft point of the iiland, which at noon bore South, about five
leagues
i\
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
251
leagues diftant, and our diftance from fhorc about four miles : a 1787, number of canoes followed us, but being favoured with a frefli S«:ptcmiicr. fleady breeze, we foon left them behind. About one o'clcck, be- ing well in with the South-Well point, we hove to, in order to give the people an opportunity of trading for curiofities, our Cap- tain having given them liberty for that purpofe. A vart number of canoes came along-hde us from this part of the ifland, and we pujchafed a good quantity of line for the fliip's ufe. At three o'clock wc made fail, and bore up for Whahoo, that being the place Captain Dixon intended to wood and water at. At fix o'clock the fmall idand Tahoura, bore North 60 deg. Weft, about 8 leagues diftant. In the evening the breeze freihcning, we double-reefed the topfails and mainfail, and at ten o'clock hauled our vviiid to the Southward, it not being prudent to run in the night. At five o'clock in the morning of the 9th we wore and made fail; the weather was fine, with a frelh Eafterly breeze, which continued during the for- mer part of the day, but afterwards we had light bailing winds, with calms by turns. At noon, the Weft end of Rami bore North 10 deg. Weft, about ten miles diftant. During the after- noon we had feveral canoes from Ranai along-fide, which brought us a number of filliing-lincs, but little belides : thefe we pur- chafcd with fmall toes.
At fix o'clock a bluff-head on the Weft fide of Ranai, much rc- fcmbling Beachy-Head, bore North 6 deg. Eaft, five miles diftant. In the evening we had leveral heavy fqualls, which caui'xl us to dofc-reef the topCails, and lingle-recf the mainfail ; but about niid- riigiit the weather grew moderate, and :>t day-lic,ht in the morn- ing of the loth, we fet all tail on ieeing Whahoo right a-hcad. We were favoured with a frcih EaiJ-erly breeze, and by half jiaft eleven o'clock, being well into the bay we fo.aicrly audio ^d in,
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25* Septet' .bcr,
A VOYAGE TO THE
we came to with the belt bovver, in eight and a half fathom wrf-cr, over a fandy bottom iuteifperfcd with rocks. The extremes of the bay bore from South 80 deg. Eaft, to South 68 deg. Well, about two miles diflant from fliore.
1 •
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Our intention was to ftay here no longer tiian was necefHiry to procure wood and water, as we knew from fad experience that it was fcarccly pofhble to lay here for any length of time without injuring our cables, not only on account of the foul bottom, bat from the heavy fwell conftantiy fetting into the bay at South LalL
There was feveral canoes along-fidc, fome of which we fent on fl\ore for water ; but few of the people brought any, faying that every thing was tabooed.
During the afternoon our people were employed m fetting up the rigging fore and aft. Towards the evening our vifitants were pretty numerous, but they confitled chiefly of females who came along- fide, expecting to get hulbands for the night, fo that though we at prefent were reftri*5lcd from neceflaiy articles, yet thofe who were difpofcd to folace thcmfclves with the chearful Whahoo dam- ibis, had no reafon to repine. In the morning of the nth our old friend the Prieft, with his ufual attendants, paid us a vifit. From him we learnt that the King propofed paying us a vifit, be- fore t!ie natives were allowed to furnifli us with water or provifions. Accordingly, about noon Teercteerc came on board, attended by a number of Chiefs, and his nephew Myaro, whofe fliape and figure 1 had i'o greatly admired when laft at this place. He was grown irather Itouter than wheni faw him lad, but his fkin was covcrctl i\ feveral places with a kind of white fcurf, which at firit I ini.i-
a gined
im
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
gined to be the eftcct of his drinkhig ava. On afkhig him about it, he told me that it was a breaking out very common amongft them ; and ib far from being occafioned by drinking ava, that it was a crime for Ib young a perfon as himfelf to touch it.
The King brought a fuie hog and fome cocoa-nuts as a prcfcnt : but it was evident that he meant to regulate his conduct towards \is by the reception we gave him, and thit we might expc6l our wants fupplied in proportion as he approved of our prefents : he enquired repeatedly after Captain Portlock, and appeared very anxi- ous to fee him. Myaro, and feveral of the Chiefs aiked after Pia- pia, and feemed well pleafed to hear of his being at Atoui.
After Teereteere had fatisfied his curiofity, and Captain Dixon made him a prefent of fome toes and other trifling articles, he went on fliore ; and we prefently found the good effects of our bounty, great numbers of the natives flocking to us with water, fo that by fun-fet we had filled fourteen butts.
By day-light in the morning of the 12th, we were furroundcd by canoes full of water, fo that the remainder of our empty calks were prefently filled, and many of the poor Indians emptied their gourds into the fea, when they found we had no occafion for any more. Our next object was to procure wood, which our friends no fooner knew than they paddled away for thii Ihore, and in lefs than an hour began to fupply us very brilkly, They alfo bro\ight a great quantity of fruit, fomewhat refcmbling a nectarine, and which I had not noticed when lalt at this illand: they eat vciy agiecably, and are cool, juicy, and refrelhing. The natives fupplied us but fparingly with hogs and vegetables, but we had not the Icaft want of either, the fupply we got at Owhyhcc being far from expended.
About
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September.
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254 1787
September.
A VOYAGE TO THE
About noon Tecretcere and his attendants paid us another vifit, bringing two hogs and fome cocoa-nuts as a prefent. The Ar- mourer being at work, Captain Dixon ordered him to make a pahou for the King, which pleafcd him wonderfully, and he ex- preilcd his friendlliip for us in the moft unrefervcd manner, pro- miling to accommodate Po Pole, when he came, with every thing the iOand afforded.
By three in the afternoon we had got a fufficient quantity of wood on board, and our Captain determining to leave this place as foon as i^ollible, the people were employed in clearing the decks, and getting every thing ready for fea. Thou wilt probably hear from me at Atoui. Tiiine,
:. \
"VVhahoo, 1 Sqitember J 3th. j
W.B.
LETTER XL.
HAVING a frclh Eallierly breeze, we weighed anchor at five o'clock in the niorninj^of the r3th, and made fail for Atoui. During our ilay at Whahoo, the Wind had been ftcady at E. N. E, and the weather very moderate. The mean of the thermometer 79 dcg. and the latitude of our anchoring birth 21 deg. 16 min. North.
^^'z
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
-5>
^ We had been .favoured with the company of the old Prieft and 1787. his attendants fincc the morning of the 12th; and no canoe now ^^T'^"'"'"^'* comng for him, we made feveral boards in the bay, being un- ' "^"^ willing to take the old mati to Atoui, if we coiild avoid it.
Towards kven o'clock the Prieft's canoe came along-fide ; and prefently afterwards we faw that of the King putting off in a great hurry, on wiiich we backed the main-topfail, and foon found it to be Tereteeree and his attendants.
When the King came on board, he feemed to be forry that we fliould leave Whahoo {o foon, and endeavoured to perfuade us that his only motive in paying this vifit was to bid us farewell : but it was eafy to perceive that intereft principally brought him on board ; and that he was unwilling we ihould leave the iiland, and have all our wants fupplied fo very expeditioufly, without making fome addition to our former prefents ; though, to do him jullice, no demand of the kind was directly made; but he frequently infinu- ated, that our being fo fpeedily fupplied with wood and water, was in confequence of his immedi ite orders for that purpofe ; and that the fame refpe(5lful att'.ntion ihould be Ihewn to Po Pofe, wJien- ever he arrived. As Tereteere feemed to lay great llrefs on this laft: circumftance, our Captain made him a prelcnt of a few axes and Laws, with which he was plcafcd to the higheil degree imaginable.
Our courfe being near that part of the ifland where the King ufually refided, he llaid on board fome time, and was uuich de- lighted to fee the iliip under fail. As we were ficL^ring nearly before the wind. Captain Dixon ordered th.e man at the helm to luff uj:> and bear away occafionally, a circuniilance which engaged Teretceree's attention very much, and excited his furprize and ad- miration.
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A \'OYAGE TO THE
17S7. Towards eleven o'clock, bein^ nearly abreafl: Whitiite Bay, the
Scpicmhcr. j^i,ig>>, lefidcncc, he left us, with many profeflions of friend- fliij), frequently repeating the word proba ; or, I wifh you a good vovajre and a fair wind.
In the afternoon, and during the night, we had light variable winds, the weather clofe and fultry. In the morning of the 14th, a moderate breeze fprung up at N. N. E. At noon, the South Weft point of Whahoo bore South js ^Icgrees Eaft ; and the North Weft point North 83 degrees Eaft, about eight leagues diftant.
During the afternoon and night, we had light baffling winds, with intervening calms. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 15th, we faw King's Mount, Atoui, which bore North Weft by Weft haft" \\'cft, nine leagues diftant. At noon we had a light Eaftcriy breeze and clear weather. The meridian altitude gave 21 deg. 43 min. North latitude. At fix in tiie afternoon, the ex- tremes of Atoui bore from North 20 deg. Weft, to South 85 deg. Weft J diftar.t from fliore four or five leagues.
The evening being cloudy and dark, at {even o'clock we hauled by tlie wind to the Southward, and tacked occafionally during the night. At live in tlie morning of the i6th, we bore up and made lail, with alight I'^afterly breeze. By nine o'clock we were within two miles of the lilaft iide of Atoui. A number of the natives ]-)refentlv came along-fule, bringing us potatoes and taro, vvhicii we purchalld for nails. Olh- latitude at noon was 21 deg. 52 min. North. W') ker-t ftamllng along ihore for WymoaBay; but the wind licip.i; li;i,ht and variable, it was doubtful whether we Ihould be able to eftecl our piu'poie. Great numbers of canoes now c.i:iie aloni^-lide the velill ; and many of the people were rejoiced to kc
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NORTH-WEST COAST Or AMEIUCA. 2^7
usagain:numbersofthonialkc(laftcrPoPotc,amirccmeclconccnK(l 1787. that he was not in our company. On our alkin- after Abbenooc ^^'::!;^- and his fon Tyheira, the people told us they woie both at Oneehow.
About five o'clock, our old friend Long-flianks came on board. ; lie was fo rejoiced to fee his former acquaintance, that tears ran down his cheeks, and u was fome time before he became perfeclly calm and colleaed. From him we learned that Abbenooe was on iljorc at Attoui, and not at Oneehow, as wc had been informed.
The little breeze we had du.ing the afternoon dying away, at fix o'clock we came to with the fmall bower, in nineteen fathom water, over a fandy bottom, about two miles to the Eallward of our former fituation.
Soon after this Tyheira came on board, and (on our afking after Abbenooe) began to tell us a very lamentable ftory, the purport of which was, that fuice we left Atoui, a Ihip had been there ; that the Captain ufed the inhabitants very ill, and even killed fe- veral of them ; that on this account his father durft 'lot come to us, not knowing our vefl'el at fo great a dillance. Captain Dixon told him, that no trade whatever fliould be carried on until Ab- benooe had been on board ; on which Tyheira immeiiiately fent a canoe to fetch his father, and at the fame time lioiPied a fignal, to let him know that he might come fafely. This had the deiircd effecl, for in lefs tlian half al^ hour we had the pleafure of feeing our good friend Abbenooe on board, and he was no lefs plcafed to fee his old acciuaintance again ; but feemed lorry that Captain Poitlock (or Po Pote, as he called him) was not with us. I'rom what Tyheira had told us refpeiSling the ftrange veilel, we were inclined to think that it was Captain Meares who had quarrelled
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with the natives, efpeciiilly us our Captain had recommended him to touch at Atoui in preference to any of the iflands. On oui alkinir Abbcnooe about this circumftance, he informed us that the Nootka had left Atoui twenty days, and that the Captain was cnou, or a bad man, and had not given any prefent whatever, though he liad been plentifully fupplied with every rcfrelhmcnt the illand alibrdcd.
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Our Captain's intention was not to ftay here any longer than was necelTary to procure a good fupply of hogs, and as many ve- getables as would ferve the Ihip's company whillt they kept good, and indeed this feemed likely to detain us but a very fl\ort time, for early in the morning of the 17th we were furrounded with canoes, filled with taro, potatoes, cocoa-nuts, and fugar-canc: many of them had fine laige hogs, particularly Abbenooe, Tyhel- la, Long-fhanks, and old Toe- Toe, the Chief who ufed formerly to fiipply us fo plentifully with taro. We prefently puichafcd more hogs than we cou'd convenient:'/ carry away alive : on this our Captain ordered the people to kill and fait as many for fea- llore as vv'cre fufHcient to fill two puncheons.
Early in the morning of the iHth our decks were croudcd with vifitors ; for, although it had been our conftant cuflom when at thefe illands before, to admit very few people on board, yet at this time it could fcarcely be avoided, efpecially as Captain I'ortlock was abfent, and we were willing to fliew every attention m our power to all thofe who had rendered any little fervices to either vellcl.
Amongft the reft of our new guefts, Tyheira introduced his- wife and two little boys ; the eldell is a fharp little felloWj about
four
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NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
259
four years old j tlic younger, ftill in liis mother's arms. She Is a 1787. very pretty modcll looking woman, and Icerns to regard her chil- ^^'^"!^' dreu with a fondiicfs t.uly maternal : Tyhcira, by way of paying a compliment to our Captain, has named his eldeft boy Po Poti\ after Capt. Portlock, and the younger D/V/iv;^;</, after Capt. Dixon.
Abbenooe informed us, that th King propofed coming on board in the courfe of the forenoon, and about ten o'clock Tiarr made his appearance in a large double canoe, accompanied by another, in which were his daughter and two nieces. The attendants on thefc great perlons were very numerous, and joined in a bec-jay or fong, on their comii.g on board, fupcrior to any thing of the kind I ever heard at ihefe illands.
The king was greatly pleafcd to fee us again, and enquired particularly after Po Pote. On being told that we fliould iTay no longer than to ])rocure a fupply of proviiions, he feemcd folicitoui to accommodate us with every tiling the illand alTorded, and in- deed all the Chiefs vied with each other in fpeedily fupplying our various wants ; even intereft feemed to be forgot in the good na- tured buftle of kind and friendly offices.
AmonglT: the many indances of kindnefs and good natured at- tention we met with at this time from the Chief:^ in general, I cannot omit mentioning an action of Long-llianks, as it does him the greatell honoui-, and would rellect credit even on a perfon of education and reiined fenlibility.
I.ong-Hianks had been often on board wlicn wc were lail: at Atoui, and by that means was perfoiially acquainted with all our people. Being naturally curious and incjuifitive, he uow
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took an oj^poitunity of going aniongi> thcrr. to afu a number of queli:iv)ns ;;o nit the voyage. On going clown between decks, lie met with the C;;rpenter, wlio had been troubled witii a lin^erin"- difoivler tor a eonfiderablc time, and at jneient was very v/eak and }XK)rly. His pale countenance and emaciated figure aiFecled jiorn- Long-ilianks very feniibly ; a tear of pity llole unhcedetl down his cheek, and he began to enquire about his complaint in a tone of tcndernefs and companion: feeing him very weak and infirm, he gentiv cliafed and prefled the fmcws and mufeles of his lees and thighs, and gave him all the confolation in his power. Preli.ntiv afterwards he came upon deck, called his canoe, and went on (hore in a hurry, without taking leave of any perfon on the quarter- deck, which vv'as contraiy to his ufual cullom ; l)ut he returned very ibortly, bringing a tine fowl along with him, which he imme- diately carried ilown to the C'aiiieritcr, told him to have it dreiicd dire:lly, and he hoped it would make him better in a day or tv.o.
This circumftance fhews, that thefe pcopl ; arc far from being dettitute of die iine feelings of humaii nature, and at the I'amc time may lead one to imagine tliat difeaies are not veiy uncom- mon amoncrll them.
About noon a frefli breeze fpringing up from the Northward, Captain Dixon v. illicdto embrace this opportunity of \ve:i;hin"- anchor; but on looking over our Itock of vegetables, ii. wa-^ ju<lged neceitary to procure a further fupply, as we not < nlv wa-tcd then; foi- the fliip's ulL-, but alfo to feed the h. ■;., of which we had near eighty on board, large and fmall. K > iconcv was the kmg informed of what we wanted, than he immediately went on llKue, together with Abbenooe, Toe-Toe, Tylieira, and Long-lhanks, all of them promifnig to come back very loon v.ith
^1
NORTII-V/EST COAST OF AMERICA.
^6r
arou (iron, or great j^lcnty of taro. In the mean time \vc un- 17S7. moored, and got cveiy thing ready for fca. Scpi. uiv.r.
About tlirce o'clock the King and Chiefs returned, each bringing a large double canoe loaded with taro and fugar-canc, fo that we were now comjilctely furnillied with every ncceffary article the illand afforded.
The expedition and difpatch with whicli we got this lafl taro, and their free and generous manner in bringing it on board, both furpri/ed and pleafed us j and our Captain was not ilow in making fuitable retui'ns. To the King he gave a pabou, a large baize cloak edged with ribbon, and a very large toe, which plcaled him fo much, that he began to think himfelf the grcateft monarch in the univerfe. The other Chiefs were rewardcil with toes, axes, and faws, entirely to their fatisfaction. The ladies, too, ^^of whom we had no fmall number of confiderahie rank on board) were liberally ornamented with buttons and beads. In fliort, all parties were perfectly pleated, and were profufe in their profellions of kindnefs and acknowledgment.
Before we finally leave thefc illands, thou, perhaps, wilt expert a kind of lupplementary account in addition to what I have occa- fioually faid refpecting them and their inhabitants. What- few remarks I am able to make, arc now very much at thy fervicc.
Thefe illands were difcovered by the late Captain Cook, during, his Jart vovatre to the Pacific Ocean. He named them Sandwich Illands, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich, his particular patron, and who at that time prefided at the Admiralty Board.
This
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A VOYAGE TO THE
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J7S7. Tills diicovcry, fiifficicnt alone to render his name immoitaf,
v.t>taiiKT. j^^^^ ^^ j-jjj ^^ j^.^^,^ brought him to an untimely end, as he lol>
his life at Owhyhcc, in conlequcnce of a difpute with the natives.
■-■•They are fituated from iS deg. 54 min. to 22 deg. 15 niiii, North latitude; and from 154 deg. 56 min. to 160 deg. 24 min. Weil longitude, and are eleven in number; viz. Owhyhcc, Mowee, Ranai, Morokinne, Tahoaroa, Moretoi, Whahoo, Atoui, Oneehoura, Nehow, or Oneehow, and Tahoura. The particular extent of each iiland I eannot give thee, as thou mayell know from the tenor of my former letters that our accpiaintance vvlili th.e major part of them is very fuperficial : on this head I ihall jult obferve, that Ovvhyhee is the farthell to the Southward and Kalhvard, tlie fouth point being in 18 deg. 54 min. North lati- tude ; and the Eallermoll part j 54 deg. 56 min. Weft longitude. The rclt trend in a direction nearly North Well, and in the order already mentioned; the North point of Atoui being 22 deg. i ; min. North latitude ; and the Welt part of Tahoura hi 160 deg. 24 min. Weil longitude,
Mowee is fituated next to Owhyhcc, and appears to be about twenty miles long. According to Captain Cook's account there is a fine bay to the Eall fide of this iiland, which we propol'ed making in November lalt, but were prevented by contrary winds. Tahoaroa and Morokinne are fituated betwixt Mowee and Ranai; they arc mere garden fpots, and I cannot fay whether they are inhabited. Ranai is confiderably fmaller than Mowee ; its jno- ducc is much the lame with that of the illands in general. Mo- 2 retoi
■* Sec a chart of the iiLmd In Cook's h^ X'oyn^c to the Pacific Ocean, vol. i4.
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
26j
•jctoi is the next to the Xortliward and Wclhvaid : its extent ap- 17S7. pears niueh the lame as Mowec. Sei tcm' it.
Whahoo I am inclined to think is next to Owhyhce in point of extent, it being more than tliirty miles long, and at leafl: twenty- miles over in the broadell: part. The latitude of the bay in whicii we anchored is 21 deg. 1^ min. North.
Atoui is rather more than a degree to the North Weft of Wiia- hooi it is about thirty miles long, and fifteen miles over in the broadert part. Onechoura is very fmall, and is fituated between Atoui and Oneehow ; its chief produce is yams. Oneehow is confiderably larger, being about ten miles over. Tahoura is the Weftermoll ifland of the groupe, and I believe is uninhabited.
Thefe iflands in general are mountainous, and fome of them remarkably (o. Captain King * eftimates Monakaah and Monaroa, two mountiiins of Ovvhyhee, to be ccnliderably higher than the- famous Picque of Tenerifte and the high land on Mowec feem* little inferior in height to cither of them. I have befoic obferved that the fummits of the two former are perpetually covered with fnow, and yet the numerous and well cultivated plantations round their bafe, and the exuberant foilage of the trees with whic'n their fides are covered, totally dcftroy every idea of Winter. Nor h the profpccl of the illands in general lefs variegated or plcaiing ; the country next the fea is generally croudcd with villages, which arc ihaded from the fcorching heat of the fun by the fprcading branches of the cocoa, palm, clove, j)ej)pcr> mulberry tree, &c»' As your eye advances f'l'ther into the country, numerous plan- tations
* Sec Cook's lafl Voyage toihe Pacific Ocean, vol. iil. p. ics.
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A \' O Y A G K T O T 11 L
1787. talions, hi'ul our lu the moil: regular manner, cngngc your attention,
'^^sll!!!'!^* *^''^ ^'^^ lantlfc.ijK' is finally clollcl by tlie mountains, which arc
cioalhcd to ihe very lumniit with all the verdure ot'everlalling fpriiig.
Though th'-ft: iiuuicis are fituated within the tropics, yet experience has (hewn Uo that trade winds are far from being conllant here, paiticidaiiy to the W'ellward of Whahoo : the weather tco is frequently unfcttled ; and another very great inconvenience at- tending theie illands, is the want of a good harbour ; though in the fumnier months I doubt not but veifels may lay either in Karakakoa Bay, Owhyhee; or \\")moa Bay, Atoui, with great fafety.
I imagine ih.e climate is much the fame as that of tropical illamis in general Hay here was So degrees
The mean of the thermometer during our
Owhyhee is by far the mofl: plentiful ifland of the whole ; we may indeed allign as one reafon tor this, that it is larger than anv two of the relt, but then its inhabitants are equally numerous in proportion to its extent, and I am inclined to think they are mucli more (o, c'Jt'f'quently the land is more univerfally culti\atcd than nt any of the other illands, which at once accounts for the grcai plenty of vegetables, 6cc. met with here.
In my next thou wilt have what few remaining particidars I can furnilh thee witli refpect ing thefe idands ; and thou mayelt depend on their being fuch as have fallen within my immediate oblervation. Adieu. Thine, (S:e.
W. B.
Atoui, ) cptciubtr ibth. I
tjcptc
LETTER
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
265
1787.
Siptcnibcr,
LETTER XLI.
THE circumitance wliich renders Owhyhee peculiarly eligible to touch at, is the great number of fine hogs it affords : fowls too are in great plenty here. In regard to vegetables, bread- fruit, potatoes, and plantains, are the moH. plentiful ; taro is more fcarce, and rather indifferent, and there are very few yams to be met with.
Atoui is certainly the fecond illand for refrefhments, and is in fome refpects fuj)crior to Owhyhee : it produces many fine ho^;^, the greateft abundance of excellent taio, together with potatoes and plantains. Cocoa-nuts are met with here in gtcater abun- dance than, perhaps, at all the other iffands together; and there is plenty of fine Hilt, which is peculiarly ufeful in curing pork for fca-ftorc : add to this, plenty of excellent water is cafily procured, and at lead a tenipoiaiy fupply of wood. The Chiefs are eafdy attached to your intereff, and by that means every bulinefs is car- ried on with the greateft ortler and regularity.
Whahoo, though greatly inferior to either of the idands iuff mentioned in regard to hogs or vegetables, yet it confelledly claims a nrft place for i'upplying tho(e moll neceiiiuy articles, wood and water; and I have reafcni to think that in a few years it will cc|ual Atoui in point of fertility. A i'yi'mt of improvement fecms to animate the people to a very great degree ; and it is really allo-
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.•■ep'.cmber.
A VOYAGE TO THE
nilhing to fee the different afpccl many parts of the ilLind now wear to w hat they did the firll time we anchored there. The bay we lay in, and Whititte bay in particular, are crouded with ncw pj-.ntations, laid out in the moft regiiiar order, and which i'eeni 10 be in a very flouriihing ftate of cultivation.
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Onceliow is remarkable for the great quantity of excellent yams it produces ; there is alfo a fwcct root called tee, or tea, found here : it is generally about the thicknefs of a perfon's wrifl:, but Ibinetimes much larger, and is generally baked by the natives i)re- \ious to their bringing it for barter. This root is of a wet, clammy nature, and with proper management makes excellent beer. — The other illands in general produce a few hogs, together with potatoes bread-fruit, taro, plantains, and fait ; which laft article renders thefe illands fupeiior to Otaheite, or any of the beautiful illands in the Southern Pacific Ocean, none of them producing any of this very ufeful article.
Hogs and dogs are the only quadrupeds we faw here. The dogs appear to be of the cur kind, dull and heavy ; they have fliarp ]5ointed ears projecting towards the nufe.
Birds are not in any great variety here: the humming-bir^l al- ready mentioned, are by far the moil numerous, and of whicli there arc two fpecies ; vi/,. the red-bird bcFoie defcribed, anu vUiothcr, the breall of a pale green, tlie back and u'ings of a lighi brown. There are alio ducks, terns, owls, 6cc. Creat luimber^: of the troj)ic bird and man of war bird breed at Tahoura, (which is uninhabited) and arc frequenly caught there by the natixcb. The lilli mofl frequently met with here are dolphins, cavalhcs, tliarks, iScc. bhuikb are much efltemed, probably on accoiuu of
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NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMEPICA.
257
their tectli, and the food tlicy afford to the 51j:c'/o:c'^ or menial 1787. fcrvants, vvlio arc rcftraincd from eatinr the better kinds of fifli. ^^l"^''"''^';-
Tht wood at thefe iilands is very plentiful on the moimtains, and of various kinds ; but the i)rincij)al are chiefly two, one re- fcmbhng mahogany, the other ebony.
What number of inhabitants thefe iflands contain, is impollible for me to lay wit'.i any degree of certainty. aptain King com- putes them at four hundred thoufand, but, with all deference to fuch rcfpe£lable authority, I cannot help thinking this account greatly exaggerated, and indeed this is pretty evident from fimilar pafl'ages in the fame voyage. Captain Cook, when at Atoui in the beginning of the voyage, ellimates that iiland to contain thirty thoufand inhabitants, and this from a fuppofition that there arc fixty villages on the iiland, each containing five hun- dred people. 'Tlu's calculation is certainly in the extreme, but Captain King makes it iVdl greater, and concludes Atoui to con- tain fifty-foiu' thoufand inhabitants, which is furely too many by at leaft one half. If therefore we deduct from the remainder of his calculations in the fame proportion, and reckon the whole number of inhabitants at two hundrctl thoifand, I am pcrfuaded it will be much nearer the truth than Captain King's calculation, which feems to be founded on ojnnion merely Ipcculative, rather than tht refult of clofe obfervation.
fl
Thefe people in their temper and difpofition arc harmlcfi, in- ofFeniive, and friendly ; not fubjccl to pallion, or eafily provoked ; in their manners they arc lively ami cliearfid, ever ready 10 ren- der any little fervice in their power even to Grangers, and pui- iuc every thing they undertake wiih unremitting diligence and aj)-
L 1 2 plication.
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1787. September.
A VOYAGE TO THE
plication. When attached to any peiTon, they are ftcady in their fViendlhip, and arc not cafily tempted to neglect the intercfl: ot' thofe for whom they have once prot'elfcd a regard. In oppoii- tion to thefe good -juahties, it mufl: be confeli'ed that they arc guilty of theft, and will not fcruple tv) plunder whenever they have an opportunity ; but this is moft frequently praclifed by the Toiitoic's ; and from the imperfecl: knowledge we have of their cuftoms, it is impoflible to fay how far theft is reckoned a crime. Yet with all this propenfity to thieving, we never met with an inliance of dilhonefty whenever any thing w^as committed co their charge, however valuable it might be to them.
Their language is foft, fmooth, and abounds with vowels. In their converfation with each other it appear , very copious, and they fpeak with great volubiUty ; but when converfing with us, they only make ufe of thofe words which are moll expreflive and fignlficant, purpofely omitting the many articles and conjunclions made ufe of when ipeaking to each other. But as a fpecimen will give thee a much better idea of the language than any de- fcription can pofhbly do, I Ihall here fubjoin a vocabulary of words which I collected the meaning of during our flay here.
Tanie, a bujhand. Whahccne, a ivife or ivoman. ^ladooa x-\\\\z^ father. ?vladooa wliahceiie, mother, ritu nanie, brother. I'itu whahccne, Jijler. Titu, child. Mvrc, a king, Arcc, a chief.
Towtow
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a Jlavc or menial fervant. Tata, a man or Mr. Bon, a hog. Manu, a Jowl. Ei ha, Jij/j in general. Wharra, potatoes. Nechu, cocoa nuts. To, fugar cane.
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Porecma
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Vy, wafer.
Taio, a la?'ge root fo called.
Poe, taro puddifig.
Maia, plantaim.
Mano, a fmrk.
Patai, fait.
Oofe, or ooughe, yams.
Malama, the fun.
Maheinaj the moon.
Booboo, a button.
a number of buttons on a firing. Hon, a nail. Mattou, a ffj-hook. Arala, a feather necklace. Taheidy, a fan or fly-fl(ip' Pahou, a f pear. Tooheihe, iccc^/. Ava, an intoxicating root. Mat an o, a prefent. Avaha, a canoe. Toa, a paddle, Tibo, a gourd or calahaf:. Hi dirro, go bclo-u:. Tabahou, a pail or bucket. Taboo, <.7/ interdiolion. Touro, rcpg or line of any I hid.
{a foie in the Jhape of an adze, a Jlat piece of iron, Marow, cloth ivore by the men.
Ahou,
r a piece of do }. the women (. waill.
a piece of cloth wore by round the lijl. Enou, bad.
Myty, goood, pretty, fine, right. Areea, prefently, by and bye. Pe emy, come hercy bring it here. Mere mere,yZ't"ic me. Arre, get away, jnarch off. Areata, on fhore. Abbobo, to-morrow. Heeva, a fong in chorus. Ete, fmall. Nooe, large, Oe, you. Moe, tofleep. Porore, hufigry. Fooninneffck, IVIeme, to make water, Tooti, to cafe ?iature. Hone hone, to falute. Paha, may be, perhaps. Arou arou, great plenty. Emotoo, old, broke, much wore. Matte matte, dead, to kill. Oiirc, a denial of any kind. Owliytocnoa, what is your name, Poota poota, a hole.
209
Scpicnibcr.
Poone poonc, Tlhi, oie.
{a liar or deceitful
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Ahcto, A' v.-,'/. AIkuiou, iV^i^/v'. llccva, ;»//';£•. I iDumc, /(■'/.
In wiitino: tlicfc words, I have fnclt them as near the promin- elation as I poliiblv could ; and yet it is probable many of thetu nii<;ht ftrike the car of another perfon very dilierently. Tiie fame may be faid in regard to tlie names of their Chiefs. I (liall iuit obferve, that where the accent falls on the letter a, it is generally pronoLincctl broad.
Thefe people in general are about the middle fize, rather ilcn- dcr, their limbs ilraight and well proportioned. Some of the Arees arc inclined to corpulency, particularly the Aree women, and their ikin is fmoothcr and Ibfter th.an thole of the common rank, but this is owing to want of cxercife, and an unlimited in- dulgence in the article of food. They arc in general of a nut co- lour, though fome of the wom.en are fairer, and their hands and fmgers are remarkably fmall and delicate.
Both -fexes go naked, except about the waill. The men wear a narrow^ piece of cloth, called a nuiroiv, barely fufficicnt to cover the adjacent parts : the ahou, or women's drefs, is much largci-, and generally reaches from the waift to the middle of the thigh.
The beards of the men arc fuftercd to grow ; their hair is cut clofc on each lidc the licail, but grows long from the forehead to the back of the neck, fomcwhat refembling a helmet. The wo- »nen cut theirs tjuite clofe behind, and on the top of tlie head -,
I the
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l!
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
the front is tiirned up like the toupee of an Englifh hcau, and is fi-cqucntly daubed witli cocoa-nut oil, and lime made from fnells, which often ^;ives it a fandy difagreeable colour. Sometimes, by way of ornament, they wear a wreath of flowers C ncifully dif- pofl'd about the head ; iiiftead of a bracelet, a fhcll is tied round the wrift, and a fondnefs for this ornament has rendered buttons fo much elk-emed by thefe gay damfels in general ; the neck, too, is adorned with various forts of fliells, faftened on rtrings, after the manner of a necklace. But the moft he utiful ornament wore by the women is a necklace or araia, made from the ^'aric- gatcd feathers of the humming-bird, which are fixed on Ihings fo regular and even, as to have a furface equally fmooth as velvet ; and the rich colours of the feathers gives it an appearance equally rich and elegant.
The caps and cloaks wore by the men are flill fuperior In beauty and elegance. The cloaks are in general about tlie fize of thole wore by the Spaniards ; the ground is net-work, and the feathers are fewed on in alternate fquares, or triangular forms of red and yellow, which have a moft brilliant appearance. The ground of tb.e caps is wickcr-v»'ork, in the form of a helmet ; the elevated part from the forehead to the hind part of tlie neck, is about a hand's bi'endth, and generally covered with yellow fea- thers, the fides of the cap with red. This cap, together with tlic cloak, has an apjiearance e(]ually fjdendid, if not fuperior to a;vy fcarlct and gold whatever.
Thefe truly elegant ornan-iCnts are fcarcc, and only poncffcd by Chiefs of the b.ighcil rank, who wear them on extraordinaiy oc- calions. There arc cloaks of an inil'rior kind, which liave only
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71
17S7,
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A \' O Y A G E TO T II E
a narron' borJcr of red and yellow featliers, the reft being covered with feathers of the tiopie and man of war bird.
Nor are thefe caps and cloaks, though confelfedly elegant hi a fuperior degree, the only proofs of hivention and ingenuity Ihewn by thefe people in matters of ornament. Their mats are ma^le with a J.cgree of neamefs equal to any of European manufacture, and prettily diverfitied with a variety of figures ftained with red. Thole ufed to ileep on arc plain, and of a coarfer kind, but made with an equal degree of neatnefs and regularity.
Clotli is another article which gives thefe Indians equal fcopc for fancy and invention. It is made from the Chinefe paj^er mul- berry-tree, and when wet, (being of a foft, malleable fubdance'i is beat out with fmall fquare pieces of wood, to from twelve to eighteen inches wide, and afterwards ftamped with various colours and a diverfity of patterns, the neatnefs and elegance of which would not difgrace ths window of a London linen-draper.
How this cloth is ftamped I never could learn ; the different co- lours are extracted from vegetables foun^l in the woods. There is another kind of cloth mucn finer than the abos'\ and beat out to a greater extent : it is of a white colour, and d.-iueiitly wore by the Aree women, in addition to the ahou. Fans and fly-flaps are ufed by both fexes.
The fans are ufually made of the cocoa-nut fibres, neatly wove-, the mounting is of a fquare form, and the handle frequently de- corated with hair. The fly-flaps are veiy curious; the handles nrc decorated with alternate pieces of wood and bone, which at a
diilance
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AiMERICA.
1 — -,
diftance has the appearance of fiiiiered work; the upper part or i-g- flap is tlie feathers of the man of war bird. Sept.mi' r.
FiHi-hooks are made of the pearl oyfter-lliell, and fo contrived as to ferve for both hook and bait. Tliofe intended for Iharks are conliderably larger, and made of wood.
Befides the variety of fifliing-lines already mentioned, they have various other kinds of cordage, and made of different ma- terials. The vvorft forts were found ufeful in rounding our cables ; that of a better kind was appropriated to other purpofes ; and the filhing-lines made excellent tackle-tails, top-gallant haul- yards, &c. I have already taken notice of the baikets we faw at Owhyhee : at the fame place we faw fome fquare pillows, maile nearly of the fame materials as the mats, and which I am informed refemblc thofe ufed in China.
Nets are made here with great ingenuity, and very large. I cannot inform thee what ufe they make of them, but they cer- tainly are not altogether for ornament.
The form of their gourds or calabaflies is fo very various, that they certainly make ufe of art to give them different fliapes. Some are of a globular form, with a long narrow neck, like a bottle ; others are tall and circular, but of equal width from top to bottom. Others again, though narrov/er towards the mouth, yet are fufiiclently wide to admit the hand : many of thefe are very prettily flained in undulated lines, which at a diitance ap- pear like paint.
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••'74
A VOYAGE TO THE
1787. Wlut little account I can give thee of their plantations thou
S. ptcmtier. ^^^^ already had, and I had no opportunity of feeing any other cultivation than taro ; but every tiling elfe, I doubt not, is ma- naged with equal care and attention.
Their houfes greatly refemblc an hay-llack in Ihape, and arc ncatlv thatched with flags, or rulhes.; the door place is fo very low that you are almolt obliged to enter on all fours. They have no l)etter contrivance for a door than a few temporary boards. 'I'hc infidc of their dwellings are kept neat and clean ; a coarfe mat is Ipread on the floor ; and as they have no feparate apartments, that part of the room appropriated for repofe is rather elevated, and covered with mats of a finer fort. The houdiold utenlils are placed on a wooden bench, and confifl: of gourds, and wooden bowls and diflics, which in general confl:itute the whole of their furniture. Thole who are poirelled of hogs or fowls, keep them in fmall out-houfes appropriated for that purpofc.
The method univerfally practifcd to drefs their vicliials is baking, which is done in the follov/ing maner : a hole is dug in the ground fuilicicntly deep to anfwcr the purpofe of an oven, at the bottom of which a number of hot Hones are laiil ; thefe beuig covered witii leaves, whateviv they want drellal is laid on them ; more leaves are now laid on, and another layer of hot (tones being added, the oven is covered. If a hog is baked, the belly is always tilled with hot flones. Cuflom has rendered this mode of drelling victuals fo very famuiar, that they can tell the cxatTt time vvhca any thing is fulRcicjitly done ; and I mull own that in baking taro or yams, they far excelled our jieople : they alio drefs the youiit;' tops of laro fo as to be an excellent fubrtitute /"••r greens, though wc never could boil them i'o as to eat palatabi)
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KORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
•/ J
The better forts of food, fuch as hogs and fowls, arc confined 17S7. entirely to the ylir^s ; but baked dog is reckoned a peculiar de- '^f''^"^'^'; licacy.
The Towtows, and the women in general, live on fifli and vegetables. A kind of pudding made of taro conftitutes a principal part of their food. The fifli niofl: eftcemed is dolphin, and they have an excellent method of curing them, fo as to keep good for any length of time. Why the women fliould be tabooed froiu flefli I never coidd learn ; but it cannot fureiy proceed from fcarci- ty ; and the Arec women are fometimes indulged with it.
The knives ufed in killing and drcfling hogs are made of fliarks teeth, and fo contrived as to be ufed in this bufmefs with c(|ual dexterity and difpatch.
The canoes are not only finiflicd witli neatnefs and ingcnuirv, but at the Ihme time are lading proofs of perfe\'erancc and in- duftry. They are made of a fmgle tree, and are fi-om twelve feet to forty or fifty feet long. The hollowing thcfe trees, and bringing each end to a proper point with their rude unfalhioned tools, mull be a work of time and unremitting attention : they arc in general about an inch thick, and heightened with additional boards neatly titted round the fides. The lingle canoes are fteadieil by an out- rigger, and the double ones are held together by fcmi-circular poles, lirmly lathed to each part of the canoe ; over thcfe, ami ^parallel witli the canoe, is a kind of platform, which Icrvcs to carry hogs, vegetables, or any thing they want to convey from one place to another, and at the fame time is a con\c!iierit Hat for the principal perfons of both fcxcs, whillt tiic 'rov\tu\vs, wIm
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A V O \' A G E TO THE
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1787. paddle, always fit in the body of the canoe. Their paddles are Septciubcr. ^^^^^ ^^^^^. ^^ f^^^ ^^^^ i^^g^ ^nd greatly rcicmble a baker's pail.
Thcfc iKople are very dexterous in catching fifli, two inftr.nce.-, of which 1 had an opportunity of feeing. One day, when a number of Indians were along-fide the veilel, one of our people, who was lillung with a ftnall hook and line, had his bait taken by a large fifli ; being unwilling to lole his line (which being a Sandwich Jfland one, was regarded as a cuiofity) he veered it away, but was ;)fraid to haul it again ; on this an Indian requefted to have the management of it, which being granted, he played the fifli with cafe, and in a ihort time got it fafe into his canoe. It proved to be a large cavallie, and weighed one hundred pounds. Another time, a large Ihark laid hold of a fmall line, which was immediately given to an Indian who happened to be along-fide ; he played the Ihark for at Icaft two miles, without hurting the line, and he only •/ot away at lait by drawing the hook llraight as wire.
Another fpecies of ingenuity met with amongft thefe people is carving ; they have a luunbcr of wooden images lepi'cfentinc human figures, wliich they clteem as rheir gods ; but I grcatlv doubt whether religion is held in any great elVmiatlun amonglb them, for I could piu-ciiafe every god amongll the illands for a few Iocs, i^ometimes their ava diihes are fupjjorted by tlnx-e of thcfc little wooden images, and this 1 reckon a mallei'-piece in their carviivr. The bowls and diihes are made ci a kind of wood re- i'cmbling ebony, and are finilhed witli a p/ioportiou and polilli cc^ual, if not iuperior, to any thing made by our turners:
The inhabitants of tiicfc illands appear fubjecl to very few dlfeafer. -, . and though they doubtlefb havebeen injured by their connejlionv/uli
I Eurj-
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NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 277
Europeans, yet Co finiple is their manner of living, that they pay lit- 1787. tie regard to this circumlbncc, antl i'eem to think it an afiair of ^,*-'i'^'"i^<^'': no confequcncc.
I am inclined to think that mofl of their diforders proceed from an immoderate ufe of ava ; it weakens the eyes, covers the body with a kind of Icprofy, debilitates and emaciates the whole fiame, makes the body paralytic, haftcns old age, and no doubt brings on death itfelf.
The taboo I liavc before taken notice of: this is generally laid on by tlic priefts, and fomctimes by a perfon appointed particularly for that purpofc, wIk is called Tomifa (or the taboo) man. When any particular fpot of ground is tabooed, the wands ufcd in. marking the bounds rclcmble our gun-rods, and arc tl])pcd with a tuft of dog's hair.
The hcevas, or fongs, cannot be defciibcd by notes, as they rather refemblc a (piick energetic mannner of Ipeaking, than Jiuging; and the perfornurs llxin to p;iy more att^intion to the motions of the body than the modulati(;ns of the voice. The women arc the moil frequent performers in this kind of merri- ment; they begin their performaiice lluw and regular, but by tlegrees it grows brilker and more animated, 'til] it terminates i:i convullions of laii- htcr.
It is very evident that ihefe people have not tlrj Laft idea of melody, i\s the top.e ; and modulation in all 'Jv. ir ijngs are iii- variably the Ln\<: -. iiowever, tliere fecmj to be Ibme degree of invention (I ha.l al.r.oll laid poeirv/ in the co-.npoliiion of the wordsj which arc oficn on tempofaiy luljeeis; and the fi;ouvnt
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A \'OYAGE TO THE
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17S7. penis of laugluei- are no doubt excited by fomc witty allufion cr ^ejH-mbcr. ^^^^^^. coj^t^^iiiea in them.
The w.u-Hkc implements in ufc among thefc people arc fpears, flin'j;^, and bows and arrows.
The fpcars are made of a kind of mahogany, about fix feet long ; one end is barbed, the other tapered nearly to a point : they tlirow them at each other, and thofe that are expert oft-times wound their adverlary at a confiderablc diftance. The flings too are ufed with equal dexterity and efl-'ecT:. The bows and arrows arc ma(fe of reeds, and I'o flender, that 1 cannot think they aie c>F any great ufe , however, as I had no opportunity of feeing their engagements, I can fay little on that head ; what information T a-ot being colk\^ed from the imperfed accounts of the natives.
Thvv have drums which are heat bv way of addition to their hecvas ; thcfe arc about twelve or fixteen inches high; feveral holes are cut in the lules, and a hog's flcin is ilrained over one end, but they prcduce but a very heavy dull fcL.nd.
The bodies of both fexcs aretatoocd; but this cuftom is more generally practifed by the men, whofe bodies are frequently )ninc- tured in a very curious manner. Whether or no tliis fervcs as any dillinguilhlng mark, or is dou'.' merely for ornament, I never could learn. The method of fainting here is by joining iiofts together, and is looked on as a certain token and ailiuance ot friendihip.
]]oth fexcs arc exceeding expert in f\\ inuning ; and what is very
remarkable, ai'e not the leail iutimitkued at the light of a iliark
o w hen
)S •
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 279
when in the water. I have frequently fjen Indians jump out of 17S7. their canoes and fnatch hogs entrails, which have been thrown ^'i'^^'"''^'- • overboard by our people, at the very moment when a Ihark has been endeavouring to feize them.
That thefe people have fomc idea of a Supreme Being, or rather of a muhiplicity of beings, fuperior to themfelvcs, there is not the leaft doubt. The buiinefs of tlieir pricfts is chiefly to fiiper- intend and regulate the worfhip to their gods ; to dlre:'^ the cere- monies at their funerals, and probably to repeat orntions or prayers upon thefe occafions : but the very ihort time any of us were on . fliore, gave us no opportunities of feeing thefe ceremonies per- formed, and therefore I fhall not attempt to defcribe them ; ns any account I could give would be equally partial and uncertaiii.
I have before mentioned the ciicumflancc of a human fieri (ice being offered ; and we are perfeclly allured this hoi^ridcullom ftill exirts among thefe people, though their difpofitions arc kind, friendly, and hum.uie, and they undoubtedly approach many de- grees nearer to civilization than tbc poor wretches we met with on the inhofjMtable coafl of America. On this bead I Ihall make no remarks, but leave tbce to di'aw tby own conclulions ; and ihall (by way of clofmg my account) lay open a Hill larger field for fpc- culative en(piiry.
from th
Capt. Cook, in his lull voyage to tlK- raiilir Occnii, has HicUT,, om that moll indubitable of all proofs, affmity dt" langu.igc, that le Sandwich Illandors are defccndcd iVom the Malayans, and ar^- the fame race of people as thofe who inhabit New ?'ca!and, tlie New Hebrides, the Mirijuefas, cS:e. whirli CNtend iVoin :.o detr. Noitli to j"? dcj. South Latitude, and tVom ] 00 to \-(^ di-;-. Well Longitude.
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A \' O Y A G E TO THE
How many people arc there in the Ie:inicd world, who have em- ployed :i coniiderable portion of their time, and made ufc of many ingenious arguments to point out in what manner the remote part^ of the world have been peoplctl ? The continent of America, for inllance, has puzzled moll: of our learned hiftorians ever fmce it was difcovered, to account for it's populatr^a ; and yet, now the geo- graphy of that part of the globe is fo well known, how much ea- lier is that to be accounted for than the tracl of Ulands fo amaz- ijigly dillant from each other 3.3 thofe juil mentioned?
I fliall conclude with a full conviclion that " the ways of Pro- vidence are unfcarchable and pad finding out." Thine ever,
W. B.
.Scntcmb
Atoui, 7
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I
LETTER XLII.
Before obferved that our \'ery good friends at Atoui had fui
nillied us with a moft plentiful fupply of hogs, taro, and fugar cane, in the afternoon of the ]Sth of September.
IIa\ing every thing ready for fea, we weighed anchor, am! made tail. By the time we had cleared Wymoa Bay, our friends willud to leave us, on which we hove to whill'l: they got into their canoe . They took their leave with a univerlal/ro/w, or a wifli for a good vovagCjand themoft unrefervcd marks of friciidlhip and attachment.
At
11
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
At fix o'clock King's Mount bore Ngrth, 66 dcg. Eafl:, dillant
eight leagues ; and the South end of Onechow, Wclh During
the ni-ht wc fleered South by Eafl, with a frefli breeze ut Eaft
North Eall. At fix in the morning of the 19th wc changed our
courle to South South Weft.
China was the place of our next deftination, and wc were al- ready in the fame latitude, and confequcntly had only the longi- tude to run down ; but our Captain judged it inofl: prudent to l>eer to the Southward, 'till wc were in about 13 dcg;. 30 min. North latitude, and then bear away to the Weftward ; as that track was the niolT: likely for a true trade, and it had been found in Captain Cook's lail: voyage, that in the latitude 20 and 21 dc ^ to leeward of thcfe illands, the winds arc at bell but liclit, and often variable.
2^1
1787. September.
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During the 19th and 20th we had a fine fteady Eallerly breeze. During the night wo hauled our wind to South, and at day-light again ileercd South South Weli.
The night of the 20th was fqually, with lain ; and during tlic 2 1 ft we had light breezes and cloudy weather: our latitude at noon was 18 ikg. 23 min. North} and the longitude 161 deg. 13 min. Weft. The variation of the compafs is here 8 deg. Eafterlv.
From the 21ft to the 25th we had a frcfli Eaftcrly breeze: our bilitudoat noon on the 2sth was 13 deg. 22 min. which being as far as wc intended to fail to the Southward, our courfe v,\ls (hanged to Weft by South ; the variation of the compafs being near 1 2 deg. Eafterly:
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17S7. Oclobci-.
A VOYAGE TO THE
From this to the 8th of 06lober we had little variety. Th'i weather was intcnfely hot, the thermometer being from 88 to 91 degrees. We had frequent heavy fqualls» particularly in the night-time, attended with hghtning. Our latitude at noon on X\\c 8th, was 13 deg. 24 min. North ; and the longitude 187 deg. 37 min. Weft. At nine o'clock in the evening we had a very hard fquall, attended with heavy rain, which obliged us to clue all up and run right before it j but towards eleven o'clocJc the wea- ther moderated. As this part of the ocean feemed particularly fab- jecl to fqualls, efpecially in the night-time, we ev^ry day at fun- fet had the precaution to reef our topfails and make every thing fnug, fo that we might be ready for thefe fudden gulls, and run no danger of carrying any thing away.
In the night of the 1.2th, we had two very fcvere fqualls, but fortunately they did us no damage. They were attended with much thunder, lightning, and violent rain.
I cannot help thinking part of the celebrated fimile in the ingenious IMr. Addifon's " Campaign" particularly applicable to circumftances of this fort. Such fudden and impetuous torrents of wind muft certainly baffle the utmoft efforts of human ikill to- guard againft tlieir dire effects, were they not guided by an Al- mighty power i and furely wc may fay of the minillering Angcl> that
" Calm and fcrcne lie drives the furious b!al}. And pleas'd th* Almighty's orders to perform, Rides in the whirlwiml, and direfts the llonn."
From the 12th to the 20th, we had a ftcac)y Eaflerly breeze and cloudy weather. The nights were frequently fqually, but not
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
283
fo violent as before. Our latitude at noon on the 20th, was 1787. 41 deg. I mill. North, and the longitude 210 deg. 24 min. Weft- "^ " ^^' The variation of the compafs about 7 deg. Eafterly.
At noon, on the 21ft, our latitude was 14 deg. 11 min. and the longitude 212 deg. 16 min. We lay'to during the night, with the fhip's head to the Northward, as we expe6led to fall in witli fomc of the Ladrone Iflands j and it was neceflary to take every precaution in our power to avoid danger.
At day-light in the morning of the 2 2d, we bore up and mcde fail, fteering Weft by North. We ftill had a conftaiit fteady Eafterly breeze, with fine fettled weather. At half paft ten o'clock we faw land, bearing North 58 deg. Weft. During the forenoon we had great quantities of fmall bonetta about the fliip, and our people caught fcveral with hook and line. There were vaft numbers of ganetts flying near the land, and indctct they were the only birds we faw. Thcfc birds feed on the fm;ili bonetta, as we frequently faw them dart into the water v/ith afto- niiliing rapidity, and they generally devoured their ptey on tlie furface before they took wing again. At noon we faw two iflands, one bearing North, 55 deg. Weft; the other North, •80 deg. Weft, about four leagues diftant. Our latitude was 14 deg. 46 min. North.
On coming near the land, wc faw tliree iflands Vvhicli we took to be Tiiuan, Aguigan, and Saypan, accoiding to the dcfcription •of them by Anion. At four o'clock the IZ.ilt end of Tinian bore North 30 deg. Eaft, diftant four leagues; the peak of S<iypan, North North Eaft •, and the Weft end of Aguigan, North Weft by North, about four miles dillant.
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A VOYAGE TO THE
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1787. At the Weft end of Aguigaii is a very fmall iflaml, or rather
'P'^'" "■• ^ j^j.gc iQck, not more than a cable's length from it.
According to our obfervations, Tinian is fituatcd in 15 deg. North latitude i and 214 dcg. 30 min. Weft longitude.
Thefc illands are remarkably free from rocks or flioals, fo that \ .fills may fafely run by them in the night-time with moderate weather. Tinian is far llie largeft, and trends nearly from South- Eaft to North-Weft. Saypan feems the next in point of extent, but lying the fartheft from our courfe, I can give thee very little idea of it. Aguigan does not appear to be more than fix miles long, and is very narrow. They are all tolerably level except the peak on Saypan before mentioned.
The author of Anfon's Voyage round the World gives a moft enchanting defcription of Tinian, not only from its beautifid appeniancc, but from the plenty and variety of refreihments it affords. Tis poflible that this account may be exaggerated, as thofe navigators were in the greateft diftrcfs for want of rcfrefli- mcnts, and falling in with an illand where all their necellitics were plentifully fupplied, the j)lace would appear to them little Icfs than a terrellrial paradife. However, be this as it may, we, thank (jod, had no occafion to touch here, having upwards oi thirty live hogs on board, and all our people in high health and ipirii's, v/lth every profpect of a fpccdy paiiage to China.
At fi.K in the afternoon, the center of Aguigan bore Noitli, ?3 dcg. r.all, about five leagues dillant ; and tiie weather being line, we ftoud on dining the night, lleering Weil and by North.
J'
From
f«
north-west coast of AMERICA.
2S5
From this to the 3 ifl vvc hac' little variety. A coiiftant Eafterly , ^7S7- trade cauicd a heavy Avell to lit in from Ball North Eaflr, and wc ^'°''""''"'* had frequent fquaiis with heavy rain. On the 31ft at noon, our latitude was 19 deg. 52 niin. and the iongitudc, by hmar ob- iervation, 232 deg. The variation of the compafs is here Httle or notiiing.
On the ifl: of November we had a moderate breeze and fine weather. Our latitude at noon was 20 deg. 18 min. and tiie longitude 233 deg. 12 min. Weft. The variation of the compafs about I dc^. IFcJhrly.
The weather growing fqually towards tlie evening, we do-uble- rccfed the to])fails, and reefed the mainfail : a very heavy fwcll fet in from the Northward, and we had much lightning all round the compafs. In the night, the wind increafed to a ftrong gale, which continued with very little intermilTion during the whole of the 2d. Our obfcrvation at noon gave 21 deg. 2 min. latitude, Eeing nov/ pretty r.ear the latitude of the Bafhee Iflands, at eight o'clock we hauled our wind to 'the Eaftward, not thinklr.g it pru- dent to run in the niglit. At midnight we wore to the :\orth North ^\■eft, and at day-light in the morning of tlie 3d, tlic weather being pretty moderate, we made flnl and bore up to tlie\V'e;l;w.i rd. The latitude at noon was 21 deg. 5 min. North; and the longitude 237 A^'-i^. 24. min. Weft. During the afternoon ue had a ilroi.g Eafterly breeze, i^onie of (;ur people imagined tiiey f.ivv' land to- wards North Well, but tliis was very doubtful. At rii;ic in tlie evening we llioitenod i'ail and hauled our wind to tlie Northward, wearing occafionally during the night. At day-ligl;t in the movn- ing of the 4th, we made fail and bore up to the \\\[hvard. Tiic
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A VOYAGE TO THE
fi:
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1787. toi-cnoon was modcniti:, the weather thick and hazy, with a very ^ill'i'* li^'-^^'y i'^^'*^!^ f^^^^ ^•^^'^ ^'°^^^^ ^'°"^^ ^^^^•
At two o'clock we faw a fmall Ifland bearing North 40 deg. Well, nbout tivc leagues dlflant ; and prefently afterwards higher land ap- peared behind it, which we ibon found to be an illand, but co!v llderably larger than the firft. As we had no obfervation at noon to determine the latitude, we had various conjedures at full what land this could be, fome thinking the large ifland to be tlic South point of Fonnofa, and the fmaller one Villa-Refey but vvc foon found thefe iflands to be Botel Tobago Xima,
At fix o'clock the land bore North 24 deg. Weft, 1 2 miles diftant, the weather ftill thick :^nA hazy. Towards nine o'clock we hauled by the wind to tlie Souihwai\i, making occafional boards durinj; tlie nii^ht, as we judged Villa-Rete to be to the Weflward, and confc'picntly it was not pi udent to ftand oa.
Til tlic forenoon of the 5th, we had frequent Iqualls with rain, a heavy iwcll fcuing in from the Northward* Our latitude at r.oon v.as 21 deg. 35 min. North i and the longitude 239 deg. 37 min. Wcfl. Thf wiixl blowing a frcfli gale towards evening, \vc clofc- reefed the toplails, and apprehending ourfelves clear of any danger, v/c fliood on during the night, (leering Weil North Welt, wltli a frclh breeze at North North Eaft.
At day-light in tlic morning of the 6th, we made fill, tlie weather beiiig prcttv nioJciate, the wind ftiil hauTing to the Noithv.nid. Our laiilixtc at noon was 21 deg. 37 niln. and tiic 'c 24 T vlc'g. r^- vr.' w. Well. During the aftcrn.)o;i wc r„';ig Dr.eze aau cioudy Nveathcr, a heavy fwell itill Itttiiij;
2 frcin
•iTir;j(
*
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
,0-,
■r'' !
from the Northward. The nights being dark, and generally i-;?.y, fqually, in the evening we clofe-reefed the toplails and reefed the ^[^'^^j niainfail.
At eight o'clock in the morning of the 7th, we faw land, bear- ing North Weft^ four or Hvc leagues diilant. On founding, we ftruck the bottom with a line of twenty-five fathom, grey land. In the forenoon we paffed fix Chinefe filhing-hoats. Our latitude at noon was 22 deg. 22 min. North. In the ahcruown we faw a great number of fifhing-boats, and at five o'clock faw Pei/ro Blanco, a large rock, which has the appearance of a hay -Hack, bearing Weft, about ten miles diftant. In the evening we ihort- ened fail, and hauled by the wind to the Southward, making oc- cafional boards during the night. •
At fix o'clock in the morning of the Sth, we made fail. The land in fight proved to be the Lema //lands, the extremes of which bore from North Eaft to Weft North Weft, about five leagues dif- tant. On founding, we had afandy bottom with twenty-four fa- thom line. Though there was a great number of Chinefe boats at a fmall diftance from us, yet no pilot coming on board, at eleven o'clock we made a fignal for one, and prefently afterwards an old Chinaman came on board as a pilot, bringing certificates from a number of Captains whom he had taken to Macao. He gave us to underftand that he could take the vefl'el no farther than Macao^ and demanded fifty dollars to carry us there, but at length agreed for thirty dollars. Our latitude ?t noon was 22 deg. 7 min. North, By this time v\c were near the entrance of the Lema Illands, which arc very numerous, and have a moft uncomfortable, bar- ren, and dreary appearance.
Dviilng
(C \
u
!f-
zn
A VOYAGE TO THE
17S-. During the afternoon fcvcral pilots cajnc on board. One of
; (aem rr. ^|^^j,^ ^^.j^^ coukl fpcak Engliili informed us, that wc muft come to anchor at Macao, and get a ch'^ppr or permit from thj Cuftoni- hovife there, before we could i)rocced to Canton. Our breeze grew light ami variable, yet we kept Ihinding on, and near mid- night cair.e to anchor in Macao Roads, in fix fathom water, over a foft nuuLly bottom. Our foundings amongfl: the Lcma lllands were, from fifteen to five fathom, over a foft bottom.
In my next I hope to give thee an account of our arrival at Canton, and our proceedings tliere. A^dleu.
Macao,. ) Novetnbcr gtli. 3
Thine ever,
W. B.
:!
LETTER XLIII.
1
|-^HE fituation of our anchoring birth in Macao Road, was 22 ikg. ') min. Nortli latitude, Macao bearing Well onc- 'lalfSoutli, ah-out ciglit miles tlillant, the grand Ladrone South by Eafl, and the peak of Eintin nearly EalE
At day-light in the morning of the 9th, v/c fuv a large fliip at ruichor, about tlucc miles off our lee-quarter. On hoifling our colours, ihe fiicwed Englilh ones in return, fb that wc took her
for
KORTII-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
2bcj
for an Eaft Ind'iainan iud anived. At eidit o'clock our Cantain ., '7^7- went in the whale-boat to Maeao, in order to procure a chcppe for our paflage to Canton, and to learn the bcft method of expe- diting our bulincfs. Towards afternoon the wind blew very frclli from North North Eafl: and North Eaft, and in the evening increafed to a gale, on which we let go the beft bo.vcr.
During the night, and former part of the loth, the wind con- tinued to blow very frcfh from the fame quarter, which caufed the vell'el to pitch very much, but growing moderate towards the afternoon, we took up the beft bovver.
At ten o'clock in the evening a Chinefe boat came along- fide, brino-ing a Mr. Folger on board ; he was Chief Mate of the veffel we had feen in the Roads, and which proved to be the Imperial Eagle, Captain Berkley, who, thou maycft remember, was ken by Captain Colinett in King George s Sound. In confequence of a quarrel with Captain Berkley, he had left him and been at Macao, where, meeting with Captain Dixon, he had procured a paliage with us to Canton.
We learnt from Mr. Folger, that the Imperial Eagle left Oftend the i-'d of November, 1786; and that King George's Sound v;as the farthcft they had been to the Northward on the coaft. They procured a good many valuable Ikins a degree or two to the South- ward of King George's Sound; and their cargo confifted of neaily feven hundred prime Ikins, and many of inferior value. In the courfe of their trade they met with a moft melancholy acci- dent. Captain Berkley frequently fcnt his long boat with his Se- cond Mate, Mr. Mackie, and ten or twelve of his people, to trade with the Indians in places on the coaft where tlie Ihip had not
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17X7.
NcA till her.
A V O V A O E T O T IT E
acccfs. In one of tlicfc cxcurfions, Mr. Miller, Second Mate, Mr, Beale, Purfcr, and two of the people, left the boat, and went in an Indian canoe to trade vrith the inhabitants on lliore, taking with them a fliect of copper for that purpofc, but were never fccii afterwards. Some of tlie Imperial Eagle's people landed at the place next day, and found Coiv.s pieces of their cloaths and linen mangled and bloody, but no part of their bodies, fo tliat they doubtlcli had been raurdercd, and their bodies either eat or burnt.
This fad cataftrophe fnfficiently evinces the cruelty of thefe people, and at the fame time may teach all future navigators ne- ver to put too much confidence in thcfe Savages, however friendly they may fcem to be.
About noon on the nth our Captain returned from ....xao, bringing a pilot with him to take the vellel to Canton, on which wo immL'diately difchaiged our former pilot. We had been under l^rme degree of anxiety on account of Captain Dixon's long ab- fcncc i but it feems the Chinefe are not very expeditious in tranf- acting their bufmcfs, and there is no remedy for thefe delays but patience. There came with the Captain from Macao, Mr. Ro(s, Firft Mate of the Nootka, (which velTel arrived here fome time be- fore us> a Mr. Moore, the Purfer, and Tyana, a Sandwich Ifland Chief v.'liom Captain Mcaies had brought from Atoui, as pal- fengers to Canton.
It feems the , Nootka received confiderable damage on fiift coming into Macao Roads in a gale of wind, in confequence of which their furs had been fent to Canton in another veflel.
Th
f'l:
. NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 291
The tide being in our favour, we weighed anchor at one 1787, o'clock, and made fail, with liglit variable winds and fine weather. November. From Macao koads to Wampo, the place of our deftination, the courfe is ncaily North North Weft, and the diftance about twenty- three leagues.
Near the midway is a narrow pafTagc called the Bocca Tigris, defended by a paltry fort on each fide the river.
From the nth to the lAth we were employed in working up to this paflhge, the wind being conll:antIy againft us, fo that wc were obliged to anchor every tide.
At four in the afternoon r i the 14th, u-c pAiTod the nocca Tv- gris, and foon after, the tide being doivj, came to anchor in five fathom and a half water. Tlie foundings up the river from Ma- cao are from eight to four fathom, over a foft bottom.
A Mandarine boat now came along-fide us, with a pcrfon fent by Government to attend our vellel, much of the fame nature as the Cuftom-houfe Officers in England, as we were informed his bufinefs was to prevent any illicit trade from being carried on.
■• -
Atone o'clock in the morning of the 15th, we weighed and made fail. Having light variable airs, our boats were hoitied out and fent a-head to tow the vellel. We kept working up the ri- ver in this manner during the whole of the i^rh, and at fix o'clock in the morning of the i6th, came to anchor at: the bottoia of Wampo Roads, in four fathom and a half water. Soon afier- wavds our pallengers left us ; and towards noon, ;iftcr giviii:; or- ders for the vcilcl to proceed to the upper end oi xW.
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2^2 AVOYAGETOTHE
,1787- Captain Dixon went in a Chinefc paflage-boat to Canton, in November. ^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^^ ^^_^^_^^ ^^^^ ^,^^ j^^j.,^ Company's Supercargoes .the
beil method of facilitating our bufniefs.
At eleven o'clock we weighed and began to warp through the fleet up the river. At three \n the afternoon we anchored with the fniall bower, in four fathom and a half water, over a muddy bottom, mooring with the itream anchor; the vil- l:i"-c of Wampo bore W'-ll North Well. Canton is about four- teen miles higher up tlu river, but the Ihips of the different countries who trade to China are not admitted farther than \Vampo. Indeed I believe the river is not navigable for large vcllels fo far as Canton.
As it was Captain Dixon's wifli to procure frelh provifions for the fliip's company as foon as pofllble, no time was loft in mak- ino- every ncceilary enquiry for that purj)ofe, and we foon learnt, that in fpite of our utmoll: care it would be impoilible to avoid a number of impofitions : that every veflel was fupplied with whatever provifions they wanted by an officer, called a Comprador, who always demanded a cumjhni, or gratuity of three hunihcd dollars, exclufive of the protit which •would aca'ue to him from ilrving I's with provifions.
A demand of this nature appeared fo very exorbitant, that v/c determined, if pollible, to avoid it ; and a Captain Talker, froai Bombay, whufc veliel lay near ours, kinilly offered to furnilh us with beef foi- the prefent. This, however, could not be done without caution ; for we had a Ihppo or Cullom-houfe boat on iiach iide the vciVe!, with officers on board, who made it a point
NORTK-WEST COAST OF AiMERICA.
293
to prevent any beef coming on board unlcfs furniflied by a Com- 17S7.
prador. November.
During this time our people were employed in unbending tlic fails, unreeving the running rigging, and doing whatever jobbs were immediately necefl'ary.
In the forenoon of the 17th the Captain returned from Canton. He was informed by the Company's Supercargoes that no Heps could be taken refpefting tlie difpofal of our furs, till the Supcr- intendant of the Chinefe Cuftoms had been on board to meafure our veirel ; and as the King George v/as cxpeded ibon, lie would not come till after her arrival.
The Hcppo, as he is generally callcil, is a perfon of very great authority, and next in rank to the Viceroy of Canton. Having procured fome beef from Captain Tafker, the fliip's Company were allowed two pounds per man, each day, with a proportionate quantity of greens, the man in the hoppo boat undertaking to fupply us with every thing of the vegetable kind we miglit want.
All the fpirits on board being expended, on the 19th we pur- chafed a Icger of arrack from a Dutchman, for forty-tive dollars. In the after noon v.e took up the ilream anchor, and moored with both houers, a mooring junk being bent to the fraall bower. I'lie Hoppo officer having found out by fome means or other, that ae were fupi'lied with beef by Captain Talker, put a it op to it ; and we again bid fur to live on fait provifions, or pay a Coniprcul'.a'^ extravagant innilLni. In this di'.emna, Mi. Moore, Tiril: >/Jale (,'i the Royal Admiial, Captain linclilait, happeniiig to callonbuarth and hearing our fitiiation, kindly undei look to farjuili us with y ^ beef
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294
A VOYAGE TO THE
m
,-787. beef, oil condition tliat we fent our boat for it every morning, KcAcinhcr. ^^^^ always took care not to let the beef be feen. We willingly accepted his ofter, and our boat was fent to the Royal Admiral re"-ularly every morning, and had generally the good fortune to get the beef on board unpcrceived.
On the 2-jd our Captain went to Canton, and returned the fame evening, having heard that the King George was arrived at Macao, whicli was a moft agreeable piece of intelligence.
At noon on the 24th Captain Dixon went in the whale-boat, with fevcn hands, to meet the King George, in order to afTill in towing her up the river, lliould they not have a favourable breeze.
On over-hauling our ftock of provifions it appeared that we had fome to difpofe of j and this afternoon we fold three tierces of beef to a Leghorncze vcirel which lay in the river, at twcnty-foui dollars per tierce.
About noon on the 25th, our confort, the King George, arrived in the river, and anchored near us j bringing all her people iu ^ood health and fpirits, to our very great fatisfaclion.
Captain Portlock's fucccfs on the coaH:, after we left him, had been noth'nig equal to oui's ; indeed it was not to be expcclcd that he could j)rocure many furs in Prince William's Souiul, tlioug'i no ellbrt was left untried for that pur]K)fc ; the boats being con- Ihimly out in the adjacent creeks and inlets, at a dillance froiu 4 he iliip,
I'll.:
)-,l
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AM ERICA.
The long-boat had been pretty fuccefsfiil in Cook's River, an,l i
had made two tiips ; being obliged to come back tue firil time for J Irclii aiibrtuient of trade.
After leaving Prince William's Sound, Captain Portlock had fallen in with a harbour betwixt Crofs Sound and the Bay of Illands. TIic paflage into it is ratlicr dangerous, and it afibrd:: no great quantity of furs ; fo that it will be no objeiSl for future traders. liis long-boat had found a pailage from_ tlience into Noifolk Sound; at which place the inhabitants Ihewed his people tin kettles, pewter balons, 6cc. wiiich they immediately knew had been bartered by us.
From this place Captain Portlock fleered dire611y for Sandwiciv Iflands, where he arrived about a week after we left them ; io that our meti ng the Prince of Wales off King George's Sound, was particularly fortunate, as our waiting for Captain Portlock tliere would have been fo much time entirely lofl. But to return. —
In the morning of the 26th both our Captains v/ent to Canton, and returned in the afternoon of the 27th. Mr. Browne a'refi- dent of the Supercargoes) aflured them that tlie Superintendant of the Culloms (or Jolm Tuck, as the Chinefe commonly call him^ would come 10 meafure b«>th vcd'els very fliortly, and that immediately afterwards, our bufmets Ihould be expedited without delay. Dining this time our people were employed in overhauling the rigging, and doing every other neceliary work that was re- quired.
On the 29th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, Mr. William Macleod, Firft ATate of the King George, departed this life. His
2. dcatii
29s
-p.
November,
n
¥
iiv
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£96
I7H7.
Nuvcii'.bti
A VOYAGE TO THE
diath was not occafioncd by any dilbrder caught during the prellnl: vovagj, but iVoni an old complaint in the urethra, which frc- ciu'cntly occafioncd a ruiipiellion of urine, and other alarming fymptoms, during the latter part of the voyage. At the time or his beintr taken ill (which was on the 28th) he was on a vilit oi\ board the Locko Iiuliaman ; and his drinking fomc ftalc porter after dinner brought on fo violent a relapfe of his diforder, as was I'uppofed to be the immediate caufe of his death. He died uni- verlally lamented by his friends and acquaintance, and was interred, in tlic forenoon of the 30th, on Frenchman's Ifland.
At ten o'clock in the morning of the 2d of December \vc were honoured with ti\e prefence of John Tuck on board. He was at- tended by a numerous retinue, who paid him a princely refpecl, fainting him at his commg upon deck with a bent knee.
This vifit feems to be a mere matter of form, as they only mcafure from tlie foremait to the taffrel, and then athwart near the gangway, which certainly can give them but a very imperfcd idea of a veUcl's burthen : however they demand (I am intormal) no Icfs than a thoufand pounds flerling, as a port charge, for thii piece of mummery. His I'Accllency made us a preient of two poor butlaloes, eight jars of fainihu, (a fpirit fo bad that v,c threw it overboard) and eight bags of ground rice, about lorty pounds each.
Thi? neceflary piece of bufmefs being over, proper meafur<.s were taken to get our furs to Canton. We learnt, on enquiry, that a choppe, or Culiom-houfe boat nuift be procured at Canton for the cargo of each vellel, the expence of which vvouUl be tit- teen dollars each: however, as the King George's cargo was cr.-
fidcrably
,1!
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
julcmbiy lei's than our's, \vc j-dgcd that by taking their furs on board oui vcllcl, the cxpcnce of a boat might be iiived: ac- cordingly, thi: afternoon we received from the King George feven puncheons anu two llop-chefls of furs.
On the 4tli Captain Dixon went to Canton, to get every thin? in readinefs at our factory for flowing the furs, and to fend a boat to carry them up. In the morning of tlie 3th a choppe boat came along-fidc for our cargo; Captain Portlock Hkewife fent a fmali chd\, and a bundle of furs on board.
We fent to Canton twenty-three puncheons, two chells, and two calks, containing the whole of our furs ; and feven puncheons, three chells, and one biUTidle, belonging to the King George ; the particular contents of all which, I lliall, perhaps, have occafion to mention hereafter.
From oiu' firft arrival 'till now, the people had been employed in overhauling the rigging and repairing whatever was defective ; our main yard had been condemned, and another fubftituted in its room, with fundry other neceiiary jobs. On the 0th we began to clear the hold, and fent our empty calks oil fiiore to be re- paired : the fail-makers were employed in making fundry new fails, and repairing the old ones. Thefe different employments engrolled the greateit j)art of this month ; and indeed we were in no particular lumy, as none of our furs were yet difpofed of, and till then we could not take in any cargo for the Eaft-India Company.
On the 26tli the Carj^enters began to caulk between decks. Captain Vortlock purehafed a number of rattans, for thepurpoCe
Pp of
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97
1787-
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A VOYAGE TO THE
1787. of dimnaglng the hold; and this afternoon vvc received S97 bim« DeccnTber. ^^^^^ ^-^.^^^^ ^j^^ j^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^j^^ ^jth, 563 bundles more.
We are in daily expectation of hearing good news from Can- ton, fo that our preparations on board for a cargo of tea go on brilkly. Adieu.
Thine, ever,
W. B.
\V.\ M po, 7 December 28th. i
I !
LETTER XLIV.
AS wc were now anxious to liave the veffel ready for a cargo, and the weather was rather precarious, wc engaged two Caulkers from the Houghton Indiaman, on the 2Sth of IXt;; n- ber, to afllli our Carpenters, it being ahfolutely necciijiy «:;) ji;.ve the fhip tight, before we could pretend to take any teas on board.
On the 29th an American veil'el called the Allia'^cc, Cn[--tai:i Read, anchored in the river. This vellci is fri!:;ate huilt, and had been employed aga n{\ us with fomc degree of fiicccls diui: g c" late unhappy contell with the Americans ; but now ii leen-s t! r
2 fl-rs
f
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
299
fpL'ars are tui'ned to prtmin^-books^ and tj^it^w frigata to merchani' ijSj.
Dco-inbcr,
fJh'U.
it;
'Hi:
For fomc days paft our fupply of beef from the Royal Admiral had been by no means regular, and we had been obliged to ufe li'.lt provilions more than once; this crccaHoned us to apply to Captain Portlock, (who had engaged a Comprador on his firil: arrival in the river) and on the 3 ill we began to receive our beet from the King George.
By this time our after-hold was clear, and the calks on the ground tier ready for water ; on this the long-boat was fent to Canton, that being the nearcll place where water can be procured lit for ufe.
Wliilfl: every thing on board our veflcl was getting foiivard with tlie utnwll difpatch, in order to be ready for a cargo when- ever the Council of Supercargoes Hioiild think proper to feud one,. our bufmefs at Canton was totally at a iiand, none of our I'lu's: being as yet dilpofed of.
In order to form fome idea of the probable reafons for this de- lay, it perhaps may be necellary to ^iiy a icw v;urds refpeaing the confi-nmcnt of our ikins, the'nv.tl'o.-is taKc:: by the perfons they were coniigncd to for the dili)oUil cl' i.'iem, ;i.:d the various impe- diments railed by the Chineie to pivVv.;u their being fold to ad- vantage.
ill'
.<!'(
At tlie time our voyage was firll let on foot, China was tiie market fixed on ibr t!ie dilpofd of whatever furs wc might pro- cure i and at the lame time it was judged of no fmall conleqUvncc
to
' 1 =
it f
300
, 'I
A V O Y A G E TO THE
to procnrc n freight from thence. An n-rcemcnt with the Eafr- Inciia Company was ticcordhigly made; our furs were to be fold to their Supercargoes at a fair ]-rice, or left in their hands i\n them to dilpof: of ar a future opportunity, and they were to have a certain p^er centage on whatever fum of money they might fetcli.
No fooi^cr were the ikins landed atoitr factory, than a particu- lar aecoi'.nt of tliem was taken by a fet of Merchants belonging to the Culloms, and who H un(ierlhmd) give feciuity to the Kmp.-- ror for the duty being paid : another account was taken by jKoplc employed by Mr. Brow ne for that purpofe.
Our fixins being properly allbrtcd, the quantity fixed on to be (Ufpofed of by Mr. Browne was 2,^52 fea-otter Ikins, 434 cub, and 34 fox Ikins.
The remainder of our cargo, which confiiled of 1,080 beaver tails, fundry indifferent pieces of beaver ikins and cloaks, no fur feals, about 1 50 land beaver, lixty tine cloaks of the carlefs marmot i together with fimdry racoon, fox, lynx, 6cc. were left to be difpofecl of by our C^aptains in the bell manner they were able ; probably for no othu- reafon than to furnilb them with money for thJir current expences, and n > doubt expecting what, they had left uould be barely lutlicient for that purpofe.
In regard to tiie fale of our furs, 1 IhouUl firft obfervc, tiiai
there is ^at Canton a Company of wealthy Merchants, called the
Hong-Merchants, with whom our EalUndia Company tranlacl
all their bufmefs, and j^urehafe from them the whole of the tea
and China-ware lent to Great Britain. To thefe people our lur.:
were offered, with an expectation of their immediately taking them
^ oil
.„!
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
301
,;?;;■,
cfF our hands at an advantageous price ; but here wc were woefully i; thlanpointcd, and we found, to our coll, t'le fad miliakc of our Owners, in appointing vhe Supercargoes to havctlie Iblcdifpofal of their property, for tlie moment thefe I long-Merchants had looked the ikins over, and fixed a vahie o i them, no other Merchant durft interfere in tlie purchafe : inclcea as the cpiantity above-mentioned was not futlered to be divided, there were not many people except thefe Hong-Merchants v^dio had it in their power to buy fo large a parcel, and advance the money immediately : add to this, the duty on merchandize in the Port of Canton feems not to be I'egulated by any fixed rule, but reds in a great meafure in the breafts of thofe appointed by tlie IIoppo to lay it on, and who fix it higher or lower at pleafure. With thefe people the 1 long-Merchants have great influence; fo that had any indifterent perfon been at liberty to purcl;afe our ikins, and difnofed to give us an advan- tageous price for them, the fear of having an enormous duty to pay, would at once deter him from any attempt of the kind ; this we found llrie'tly verified more than once.
In this poor fituation were we witli refpecl to the fale of our cargo, during tlie month of December, and the greatefl part of January : eit^hei- we nuifl clofe with the paltry olfers which the Hong-ivierchants had made to the Supercargoes, or be under the necellity of leaving our furs in their liands undifpofed of ; this both parties knew we wilhed to avoid, if poffible. Mean while, fomc of the refufc which they had left for us to difpofe of, fold to confiderable advantage ; the 1,080 tails fold for two dollars each ; the fur feals for five dollars each, and a finall parcel of rubbifli for fifty-five dollars.
On
1 f
I*:-!
|i
'I
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I I
i I
!•;
I'
Jumiary,
A VOYAGF. TO THE
On die 7lh of Janiiary, 17S8, we fcnt to Canton 130 pokcl of flints, a parcel of hlanLcts, and Icvcral grofs of buckles ; a Iloppo bont was alio lor.Jcd v.iib flints from the King Cieorge. The blan- kets ami buckles were brought out to trade with the Americans ; and we were given to undcilland they were a very laleable article amongft the CUineie.
Ev the i.tth, our quarter-deck being completely caulked, we paid ir over v.itli a compolition of damar and oil ; the main and forc- r.iafts were al fo paid with the lame compolition.
On the 20th, twoEafi: India Captains came to furvey our vcfTel, by the direction of the Supercaigoes, previous to their lending any teas on board ; they found feveral defects in our lower deck, nnd g-ave directions for having it properly fecured ; at the fatfic time they lent us a cari")cnter and a caulker, to aflift our people in expediting this buiincfs.
In the afternoon a boat came along-fide, with 100 cherts bolua tea. At eleven o'clock in the evening we parted our mooring jn-.k, on which we got out the large kedge and ftream cable to lleady the fliip. (
The Surveyors having ordered our lower deck to W flcAitcd, on the 2;d the Carpenters got the dams ready for that ;'.,-pole ami at eleven o'clock, the Surveyors again coming on bcaid, i'ouad the vcflel completely fit for a cargo.
On the 25th we had the good fortune to recover our fmall bower, tocrcther with nine fathom of the junk.
On
H
i
NORTri-VVEST COAST OF AMERICA.
On the 26th, cur principal furs, viz. the 2,552 otter ; 434 cub, ^tjSS. and 34 fox, were fold and delivered to the Ealt India Company's Supercargoes, for 50,000 dollars.
:ur,jai V,
It fliouKl fecm, that our Captains had only a mere negative in this bulinefs; hut nnriinjr it inipoillbk to obtain a better price, and It being hij;h tin-.e to think of failing, they were glad to clofe with tins offer thougli very far (liort of wliat we at one time had reafoii to expe^c : indeed there now vwrc other reaions, and thofe very weigiity ones, bcf.des what 1 have already mentioneti, for conclud- ing this bufmeis. T!u furs brought by the Nootka had recently been fold for 9,750 dollars :— 700 fine fea-otter Ikins, (the cargo of the Imperial Eagle, Captain Berkley) were in the hands of Mr. Beale, a principal Owner, and refident at Canton :— i,oco oitcr- Ikins were lent by the Spaniih Miilion? ies from California, and that part of the coail towards King George's Sound, to Mai.dl;:, and from thence wei'c lately arrived at Canton :— two Fi'eiah vci- fels which had been upon the American coail on difcov.iy, and lately arrived at Macao, had picked up 200 line fea ottcr-ikir.s j add to this, a great number of black rabhit-lkins and fur-feals, which arc held in tolerable eilimation here, had lately been brought from England : all thefe being in the market at once, quite glut- ted it, and had Cuch an eilect on the Ciiineie, tliat they feaicely thouidit furs worth taking awav. Thefe cux urn ilancos bclnj; (I'lls'' confukaxd, it certain'y was the moll prudent ilep our Cupiaias could poliibly take to clofe with the Supercargoes, an (cxe'ii-'ivo of other conlidcrations) by this means we were enabled to r.:init bills of exchange to our Owners, and our departure \wkS f;r^;>£'y facilitvited.
Oil.
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3^4
A VOYAGE TO THE
On the ',0th, \vc leccived on board the rcmiunhig pnit: of oiu caurro of teas.
I have before obfervcd, that there were fiindry parcels of inferior fvus, together with, the marmot cloaks, which we were j)enMittc(l to fell ; a few of thele had been difjiofed of, but th.e greatell part iVdl lay on ciir hands, and they being the oidy thing which now detained us at China, we at lall fold the whole, together with the flints, buckles, and blankets, to Chichincpia, for i, coo dollars ; the old man at the fame time obferving, that lie had no other motive for making this purchafe, than a wilh to hallen our depar- ture, it being a pity, he faid, that two fuch fmall veifels as our's fliould be detained at a heavy expcncc for I'ueh a trifle. I am in- clined to think, that old Chielfnupia was fmcere in this affertion, for when the furs were delivered to his people, they leemed to re- gard them as mere rubbidi, though a month l^efore, they would certainly have fetched at leall four times the money ; but at that time we were not at liberty to fell any thing whatever.
By this time our cargo was properly flowed, our water coni- pleated, and every thing ready for fea. At ten o'clock in the morning of the 5th of February we unmoored, and at twelve weighed anciior and made (ail, having a breeze at Noith North Weit. At three in the afternoon we came to with the fmall bower, at the bottom of the fleet, in fix fathom water. In liij evenin:: our Captains arrived from Canton, havinir difeharired the factory, ajul iinally fettled all om- bufmefs there.
In the morning of tiie 6th the King George umnoored, hut having li'.tlv or no wind, flie warped down the fleet, and came up with us about four oclotk. Having the wind generally contrary,
we
■'H
',1
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
30?
wc came to cvciy tide, and did not arrive in fight of Macao till the 1788. morning of the 9tli, when we anchored in Macao Roads j Macao ''''^'"■^'^" bearing Welt South Weft, and the Peak of Lintin Eaft about four
leagues diftant
Our grand object being now compleatcd, thou mayeft eafily imagine we are anxious for a fpeedy and fafe paflage to Old Eng- land, but no one more than thine, &c,
W. B.
Macao, 1 Icb. ictli. S
LETTER XLV.
li
C"^inNA is a place fo much frequented by Englilhmcn, or- J account of the very extcnfive commerce carried on there by the Eaft India Company, and on that account fo univerfally known, that it will perhaps be ridiculous for me to make any re- marks concerning it ; however, as thou art fond of novelty, and jierhaps art no farther acquainted vvitli China than by perufing J)u Ihildi, 1 (hall trouble thee with what few obfervations I have been able to make concerning this place and its inhabitants.
Were we to form our opinion of this coimtry, from the impref- fions its firft appearance makes, it would be of the moft unfavour- able kind, as fcarcely any thing in nature can have a more barren, <]reary, and uncomfortable afpecl, than the Lema Iftands, or in-
Qo deed
Mi
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3c6
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'■f
V \l
AVOYAGETOTHE
deed tlicface of the country, after wc arrive in Macao Roads ; but by tlic time we reacli the Bocca Tij^ris, the pro.'peft brightens : from thence to Carfi;:! the river aiTumcs a ferpentine form, and every tvirn prcfcp.is to your view a different branch of the river, many of whif.h arc natural, and others the cffeds of hibour and art. Numerous villages are fcen in thcfe different virtos, and they abound with a pleafuig variety of beautiful landfcapes, agreeably diver fi fled with plains, and gently rifmg grounds : the fummits of t!ic hills arc adorned whh \oi\y P cigalas ; the rifuig grounds are ornamented with trees of various forts, whofe verdiu'e is in con- fl-ant fucceffion, and rcfcmbles an everlafting fpring, whilll the plains afford large quantities of fugar-canc and rice.
Vet with all thefe combined advantages of nature and art, thefc profpedb, fo truly plcafmg at a dilhuicc, lofe much of their cffeft on a nearer approach. The Ibil is generally of a loofe fundy nature, and I'nc furface of the earth is far from poilelling that beautiful ver- dure for which the Britilli plains are fo remaikable, and feems but ill adapted either for pallurage, or the cultivation of grain in gene- ral. The villages, though numerous, and extremely populous, aic with Ibme few exceptions, opprelicd with poverty and want ; and I believe the quantity of rice produced here, is quite infufhcient tor the coniumption of the inhabitants, great quantities being yearly imported from Manilla, and the Eail Indies.
The climate at Wampo is extremely imhealtliful, and fuch great and fudden variations are there in the temperature ot tlic air, that I have fre([uently known the thermometer to change tiom 41 (leg. to S6 deg. in twenty-four hours. The country to the North Eart is low and marlby, and the heavy dam}) fogs exhaled from thence, frccjUKnily bring on agues, intermitting fevers, anu ., fiuxei. i
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
307
fluxes ; though probably this laft dilordcr is accelerated by the ^785^- quantity oi' arrack which the failors frecjucntly drink to excefs.
Wanipo, as I have already obferved, is the rendezvous for fliips of all nations, trading to China. Here you fee Englifli, French, Dutch, Danes, Swedes, ItaUans, and Prullians : the Americans, too, have, it feems, overcome their diftafte againll tea, and have opened a trade for that commodity with the Chinefe. Till thefe few years the Germans had a factory at Canton, but at prefentthe Imperial Company is infolvcnt, and they dare not fend any veflels to China, for fear of having them feized in part of payment for the debt already incurred.
I greatly queftion, whether the trade earned on by our Eaft India Company to China, is not of more confequcnce, than that of all other nations put together, if indeed wc except that carried on by the Chinefe Merchants to iVIanilla and Batavia, which is very exten- five.
^1 |
i's ■■ll |
' ^:r^ |
The Captains of fliips, during their llay here, hire temporary warehoufes of the ('hinefe, fituated near the rive)' iide, for the puipofe of landing their flores or carr . wnilil: their veU'els are re- pairing, or carrying on any employment that can be done more conveniently here th^n on board : in this refpect, the French have greatly the advantage over us, for their warehoufes are fituated on a dry comfortable illand, where they have not only every conveni- ence for carrying on their ref[K't:live employments, but luive like- wife a comfortable !u)fpital for the reception of their fick ; whereas the Englilh warehovdes, being chiefly on the low marlhy grouiul before-mentioned, arc in fome mcafure precluded from thefc ad-
vantages.
(^l 2
Canton
i!^
i . |
1 I ^^ 1 |
17SS. Fthruarv.
A VOYAGE TO THE
Canton is fituated on the Tigris, about four leagues from Wampo. Here the ditierent nations who tiade with the Chinelb have factories for the refidence of their Confuls or Supercargoes. Thcfc form a tolerably handibme range of buildings, fituated on a kind of quay, near the river-hdc, about, a quarter of a mile in length ; but that belonging to the Englilh is incomparably the moft elegant and commodious. None of thcfc Factors arc al- lowed to rtay at Canton after the Ihips leave the country, but always go in the lall vellel to Macao, where they refide till the Ihipping returns next fcafon.
Adjoining to thefe public factories are a number of pi-ivate ones, which are c)ccuj)ied by the Cajitains of different vcffels, who hire iheni during their ffay here from tlic Hong-Merchants, as tliey generally relide at Canton for the greater conveniency ct tranfacting their bufmefs with the Supercargoes, or any private concerns of their own.
Behind thefe fii61:o;ies, are the city and fuburbs of Canton. Of the city I can form but very little idea, as no ll ranger is ailnutted within its gates. The Ifrccts of the fuburbs in general are ex.- ceedinglv nairow and inconvenient, but are tolerably clean, be- ing paved with broad tlag-ffones. 'I'hey con fill entirely of tb.c jhops and waiehoufes of diHerent trades and maiuifactures carried on here, which are fometinK's very exteniive, but fcldom coniilt of more than one llory.
Canton is extremely [)opul()Us ; but nothing can better (hc'-v how dilhcult it is to form a competent idea of the number ot its iidiabitants than the diffeient opinions of vaiious autlu)rs uluj have piofellediy wrote on the lubject, fome reckoning more tlu^n
1 a million,
.11
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
a million, and others again eighty thoufand. Without taking notice of i'..ch abfurd difproportions, I (hall juft obferve, that the calculation made by Captain King, is, in my humble opinion, by far nearefl: to the truth : he computes the number of inha- bitants to be one hundred and tifty thoufand, which is certainly a very moderate calculation.
Befides thefe, there are an amazing number of people who live altogether on the water, in boats, called fampans, and amount, according to the lowed calculation, to forty thoufand; but I am inclined to think they confiderably exceed that number. The greater part of tlicfc poor wretches obtain a precarious live- lihood by fifliing, and perhaps fonie trivial employments occa- fionally picked up on the river. Others again ply as conftant pallage-boats from place to place, after the manner of our water- men: for two dollars you may hire a handfome Tampan, with good accommodations for eight or ten people, to take you from Wampo to Canton. Thcfe boats are fitted up in the infide al- inoft like a parlour, v/ith a table and chairs for the paliengers. They ha\c lattices made of pearl, and covered with a nci't arched roof of bamboo.
509
1788.
l"cbruni\.
/\
H. !'
The lower kind of peoj^lc live entirely on rice, with perhaps a iittle tilh, barely fufficicnt to give it a rcliili, whiill the Manda- rines, and in (hort all thofc whofe circumftanees will aftbrd it, pamper themfelves with every kind of luxury, and are remarkably fond of reiilliing fauces and highly feafoned dilhes.
The conunon produce of the kitchen-garden, fucli as cabbages, carroti, greens, turnips, potatoes, 6cc. are in great plenty he:-;,
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.1'
A VOYAGE TO THE
17SS. and yet, fucli is tlio poverty of the common people, that very ^jill^jii few oi' thefe f;ill to their nuue.
The artificers in various manufactures here, are very ingci-.i- ous and expert. To fay any thing about the excellence of their china-ware, would be abfurd, as every female gollip in England can haran'nie by the hour about the neatnefs and elegance of her lall " /57/Jr /<V," though, to be fure, it did not cod near fo much as licr nei^hbours i but—" indeed Ihe wonders \\ow feme people can h:\\Q Jb little tcijle r
Their numerous patterns in filk and velvet are certainly inge- nious ar.d well-fancied , but for goodnefs of fabric, and hilling beauty, they undoubtedly muft give place to our looms in Spital- Fields.
Ma:iv of their artificers fliew a great degree of dexterity and ingenuity, particularly in their cabinet and laccjuered work; many of thefe things are, however, merely ornamental, and but little calculated for real utility.
The C:hinefe method of wearing their hair is fomething fmgu- lar, though 1 belitve the fame cullom prevails all over the flail. They iViave the head clofe, except a fmall circular place on the crown i this being frequently ihaved when they arc mere intants, tlie hair afreiwards grows remarkably long, and is wore in a neat triple plait.
The women fuller their hair to grow long, and drefs it in neat circular ioVh on the top of the head, in a conical form ; m tin-, <:urious fold a number of ornaments are wore by the belter loit.
Small
J i ij
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
M
Small feet are reckoned extremely Kandfome amongft the fe- ^7^^- males, (o that they are cramped up from then- infancy j and by this means many of them are little better than cripples.
In regard to their Government, I c;mi fay but little. The Etn- peroris of Tartarian extraction, and may, I believe, be called a delpotic monarch ; at leaft, the I'ubordinate parts of Government, fuch rs the Cuftoms, &c. we can experimentally fay, are Ihictly fo. Iluvvcver, we have undoubted proofs that their police is in fome refpecls better I'egulated than that of any country in the world ; for the Englilh Supercargoes, on their leaving Canton, frequently leave at lealt one hunchxxi thoufand pounds in fpecie behind them, under no better feciu'iiy than tlie feal of the Hong- Merchants and Mandarines. The Captains at the d'Hcrciit pri- vate factories truil their property, without the ki\(\: fcruplc, to tlie care of Chinese fer\ants, and, I believe, au inftancc of dif- honelly was Icarcely ever heard of.
I have before obfcrved, tliat the Chinefe arc fond of high-fja- foned dilhes, yet they arc very moderate in their meals, nevei; making more than two in the day; the tiril about ten in the morning, the fecond about five in t!ie afternoon ; the intermcchatc time is employed, by tliofe not engaged in buiinefj, in fnioaking, drinking tea, and paying vilits to their neiglibours.
The Chinefe language is cxceedinglv difricul': lo be undcrllooii j and this docs not proceed from its bi.,ng ror, ous, but (juite tlie reverfe, the fame word having r. great variety ',f lignifiCotions, ac- cording to the dirtcrent mocU.; oT prc'nvmciation, and tliis variety of emphafis is oft diflinguilhcd by ;i I.'A^'a of 'mgirig tone ; i'o tl>.:U 1 am inclined to think a party of Chinefe obliged to converiii; t;)-
II I I ■ I
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312
A VOYAGE TO THE
17S8. .rc-tlici- iiiwhifpcrs, would be able to untlerlland each otlicr bill
Fcbiuary. T ,- -,,
nrpertecrly.
Nor is this capital dctca in their language likely to be reme- died. The Mandarines affea to write in arbitrary characlcrs, (o as not to be underllood by the common people ; this nuill ever prevent the Chincfc language from being brought to a proper Ihmdard, lb as to be imderllood by the world in general.
Theii- method of writing is in colunms, from the top to the bottom, in tlie fame order as we make figures of pounds, Ihil- ling::. a'nd pence ; and they always begin at the right-hand margin
and conclvide on the left.
Their arithmetic is decimal, every thing being reckoned by tens. They have not any iiica of addition by figures, but are very expert in calling up any fums, by the help of wooden balls, which- run on fmall Ipindles in a kind of open box.
The money in circulation here is chiefly Sinmilli dollars ; the onlv money coined in this extenfive empire, is a bafe kind ot cop- per', called^ cijl', eighty of which are about tlie value of eight- pence llerling.
Their religion is rank Paganifin, every family having its houle- hold god, which is an image, generally fixed in fome confpicuou, place, and decorated with a number of faiUallical ornaments ; a fight is kept condantly burning near this image in the night- time. All the boats oi\ the river have got a place in the Hern uppropri.ited for " Jo;;' as they call their image or god, and al- ways take care to liave the manfion of his worihip illuminated m
the
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NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
3»3
tlje night feafon ; yet many, even amongft the common people, 1788. have fufficient difcernment to perceive the fallacy of fuch an ab- ^^'^^"^'"y- furd worfhip, and readily acknowledge a Supreme Being, unfeen, itivifible, and who exifls to all eternity.
Polygamy is allowed here in its utmoft extent, and the people of rank in general keep a number of wives ; yet this indulgence is frequently infufficient to gratify their unnatural defires. They are particularly careful to prevent foreigners from having any conne6lion with their women ; and whenever any thing of the kind is difcovered, the party is fure to fuffcr imprifonment, or pay a heavy fine.
It is fomewhat remarkable, that a people wh6 carry on an ex- tenfive commerce with the moft civilized nations, and have made fo great a prcgrofs in the polite arts, fuch as painting, architec- ture, 6cc. ihould be totally ignorant of mufic ; and yet this is ab- folutely the cafe. The band which accompanied his Excellency the Hoppo, when he came to meafure our vefTels, and which, no doubt, was compofed of the beft performers, to be in the fuit of fo great a perfonage, confiftcd of two brafs conchs, beat like the Englilh tabor, and three or four pipes, not very much Uiilike a hag-pipe ; the whole forming a harmony refembling a fow-gelder's horn and the cackling of geefc. However, joking apart, they certainly have not the .noft diltant idea of melody, and in tliis particular arc very greatly excelled by the Savages on the Nyrth Weft coaft of Anic-rica.
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China produces beef, mutton, pork, goats, geefe, ducks, fowls, -&C. in tolerable plenty. The beef is pretty good, but very fmall, weighing not more than from fifty to fevcnty pounds per quar"
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A VOYAGE TO THE
1788, ter. The hogs arc of a peculiar breed, remarkably fat, and tlieir T-ibniarv. i^gjjj^g tVc(iucntly fwccp the ground. The poultry are greatly in- ferior to the Englifh.
Every thing in China Is fold by weight, which is diflinguiflied by caddies and pekels, the caddy weighing near twenty ounces and a quarter Englifli, and one hundred caddies make a pekel. The Compradors, who, as I before obi'erved, furniHi the different fliips here, weigh every thing alive, and make ufe of every art to make their hogs, geefe, ducks, &;c. weigh heavy. They often cram them with ftones, and give them fait and water to m^ke them thirily, and in fliort ufe every method in their power to defraud and over-reach their employers. And I Ihall conclude this imper- fe6l account of the Chinefe, by obferving, that a fliarping, cheat- ing difpofition, li'ith fomc 'very Jew exceptions. Is generally preva- lent amongfl: them.
S '•
I am juft now furniflied with a very particular account of the Fur Trade, which fhall be the fubjed: of my next. Meanwhile, believe me to be fmcerely thine, &c.
Off MaCao, j
Feb. i6th. S
W. B.
L E T-
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NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
:iK^
t;
T788.
February.
LETTER XLVl.
WHILST Captain Dixon was at Canton, a Gentleman, re- fulent there, very obligingly favoured him with a parti- cular account of every tranfa6lion in the Fur Trade fmce its commencement. As thou art a commercial man, any tl^ng re- lating to that fubjctft mull: be peculiarly interefling to thee ; fo that I fliall here furnilh thee with this account as I have collected it from our Captain's minutes.
King George's Sound being pointed out by the late Captain Cook, as the moft eligible fpot where a valuable cargo of furs might be collected, the firft veffcl which engaged in this new em- ploy was deftined for that place. She was a brig of fixty tons and thirty men, commanded by James Hanna. Captain Hanna left the Typa in April, 1785, and arrived at King George's Sound the Auguft following. Here, in about five weeks, lie procured live hundred and fixty fea-otter ikins. He left the coaft in Sep- tember, and arrived at Macao in December the fame year.
;, 1;
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A VOYAG E TO THE
1788. The above (kins were fold at Canton the 21ft March, 1786,
February'. ^^^ ^^j^^ ^^ ^^^^^^ ^j^^
140 prime fkins, fold at 60 dollars each,
175 2d ditto, . 45 ditto
80 3d ditto, . . 30 ditto
55 4th ditto, . 15 ditto
50 5th ditto, . . .10 ditto
500 whole fkins,
240 (lips and pieces, eftimated at 60 Ikins, ibid for . 600 ditto
^60 fea-otter fkin§,
Total amount 20,600 dollars.
Encouraged by fo fucccfsful a beginning, the Gentlemen en- gaged in this undertaking difjiatchcd Captain Hanna a fccond time. He failed from Macao in May, 17H6, in the Sea-Otter fnow, of one hundred and twenty tons and thirty men. Having before fuccecded fo well in King Geoi'ge's Sound, his orders were to proceed to the fame place, purfuing his former track. He ar- rived at the Sound in Augult:, but the complexion of things was now greatly altered : Curr.akec/a, an Indian Chief, whom he be-, came acquainted with during his former vifit to this place, in- formed him, that two (hips had lately been there who had bought all the funs, and John M'Key, whom he found here as has already been related, confirmed this circumdance. Wiihing however to refrefh his jicople, many of whom were ill of the fcurvy, he lay in the Sound about a fortniijlit, dm'ing which time he pLucha'ccl ■2. about
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 317
about fifty good fea-otter Ikins, which were brought him by the 1788. natives from ciiltant parts. Captain Hanna afterwards traced the f^*|^2^' coaft to near 53 degrees North latitude. He anchored in St. Patrick's Bay, in the latitude 50 degrees 42 minutes North, and met with foine inhabitants there, but got few furs of any con- fequencc. He left the coafl: on the ill of Oclober, and arrived at Macao the 8th of February, 1787.
The furs Captain Hanna procured this voyage were fold rt Canton the 12th of March, 1787, and confifted only of
100 fca-otter fkins, fold at 50 dollars each, and 300 different fized flips and
pieces of fca-ottcr. fomc «
of them indifferent, at 10 ditto ditto.
:.:■ !^
: I'
Total amount 8,000 dollars.
The fnow Captain Cook, Captain Lorie, of 300 tons, and the fnow Experiment, Captain Gulfe, of 100 tons, were fitted out at Bombay, and left that place the beginning of 1786. They arrived at King George's Sound in June, at which place they pro- cured near 600 fea-otter Ikins. On leaving this j)lace they pro- ceeded aloiu^the coaft, and difcovered an extenfive found in about 51 deg. Northlatitudc, which they called Qm."en Charlotte's Sound; from thence they proceeded in a dire6t courfe to Prince Wil'viam's. Sound.
I
What
r "t
■m
3^^
FclMuary.
A \ O V A G E TO THE
What time they left the Coaft I canjiot fay-; but the cargoes of both vcllek were fold at Canton the 4th of April, 17S7, and con- lirted of the following furs, viz.
HI
Prime fea-otter Ikins . '. |
S5 |
2d ditto ditto |
•34 |
^d . . . . . |
142 |
4th ..... |
63 |
In halves .... |
46 |
Smaller pieces |
|
Pieces of } ellovv and infeiior |
12 I |
604 fea-otter fkins
Sold on an average at forty dollars each. Total amount, 24,000 dollars ; the remaing four Ikins being included in the bargain.
From this account (as it correfponds with that given by Mr. M'Key) it Ihould fcem that thefe vcllels procured the whole of their furs in King George'? Sound, and that no other part uf the coail afforded them a fingle fkin.
The fnow Nootka, Captain John Meares, was fitted out at Pen- gal by a fet of Gentlemen, who lliled themlelves the Bentral Fur Society, and failed from thence in March, 1786. I have alre;uly given thee an account of this vefiel's dcftiuation, and her arrival at Macao. The cargo of the Nootka was fold at Canton the 4th of lail month, and confifted of the following furs, viz.
50 pnmr.
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Dolhrs. Dollars.
50 prime fca-ottcr fkins fold for 70 each. 52 2(1 ditto . . 50 do.
5S 3d ditto . . 35 do.
31 4th ditto large, half worn 20 do. 50 5th ditto, worn ikins 15 do.
26 old and very bad . . 5 do,
267
1 2 large pieces and flips fea-otter 10 do.
17 fmaller , ditto . 5 do.
2 do. 39 ^^o-
6 do.
3 dO'
14
37 fea-otter tails 3 1 inferior ditto
48 land otter, bad and good
14 very bad beaver fkins 27 martens
Befides the aboxe, Captain Meares fold 50 prime fea-otter ikins at Canton, at . . -91 each
93O30
205
28S
9,692
4.550
So that the total amount will be 14,242
and may be called 357 fea-otter Ikins bcfide the refufe.
319
1788.
Fcl)ruary.
Every
=iff'
it
.320
178S.
A V O Y A Cr E T O T H E
'Every p;iiticular rcfpeding the deftination of the Imperial Eagle, Captain {'>crkky, has ahcady been mentioned ; lb that it will be ncedlch for mc to repeat them here: her cargo conlirted of 800 lea-otter Ikins, chiefly of a fuperior quality ; they weie not fold -when our Captain left Canton, but the price fixed on them was 50,000 dollari.
The Spaniards within thefe two years have im}x;rted the fca-ottcr no China : they collet^ their ikins near their fettlements of Mon- treiy and San Francifco, and they are all of a very inferior quality. The Padres are thse principal conductors of this traiiic.
In lyij thoy imported about 200 Ikins, and the begirming of 'this year near 1,500. Iliefe furs were not fold when we left Can- ton ; they are fent from the fettlements before-mentioned to Aca- pulco, and from thence by the annual gaUeon to Manilla; but they have not as yet attemj^tcd to tit out vefl'els from any of their settlements to the Nortlwvard.
I !
II I
TheE'Aftroli.be and Bouflalc, two French fliips, commanded by M. Peyroufe, and De Langle, failed from France in 17S5; they are faid to have traced the North Weft Coaft of America from the Spanilh Icttlement of Montrery, to 60 deg. Noith latitude ; but tliis fcems rather impiobable, for though thefe vcdels were prcfelledly fitted out on difcovery, yet the Commanders did not forget that lurs were a valuable article, and accordingly, whilft on the American coaft-, they j)rocurcd about 600 fea-otter Ikins, chiefly in pieces, of a very inferior quality, and evidently the lame as thole imparted by the Spaniards ; whereas IkuI tliefc gentlemen becii well in with the coaft to the Northward, they undoubtedly
muft
NORTH-WFST COAST OF AMERICA,
til
mufl: have met with fca-ottcr ikliis, of a qiiciUty far fapciiur to 1788 what they piociued.
Febiu.irv.
Thcfc ihips arrived at Macao in January, 1787, and their furs were fold at Canton by the Swedilh Supercargoes, for 10,000 dol- lars.
1 have already furniilied thee with moll of the particulars re- fpecting the fale of our furs, and mentioned the places where we collected them ; it only renuiiiis forme to obferve, that the total amount was 54,^^57 dollars.
By comparing the fale of our furs with thofe already mentioned, thou mayeil at once perceive how very fluc'luating this article is iti the China market : out of 2,552 fca-ottcr Ikins, which we brought to Canton, at leall 2,000 of them oagbt to have fetched fifty dollars each, and the remainder a price in proportion.
What furs the RuOians procure on the American coad, itisim- podiblc toafcertain, as they never bring them to the Canton mar- K't. We are pretty certain, that their tramc ('xtends very little to the Eaftward ol Cook's River, and that place certainly docs not produce fo many iea-otter as King Geoige's Sound ; fo that I Uiould imagine tb.ey do not collecl ^,00 Ikins annually.
From this ihort iketch of the fur-ti-ade, thou mayeft eaiily per- ceive, that very great advantages would be derived frymit, if placed on a permanent footing, to ert'eCl which, I Ihould conceive the moft eligible ])lan would be, to ellablilh a factory on the coal\, and the North end of (^leen Charlotte's Itlands feems peculiarly well adapted for that [uupofe ; the fituatiou is nearly central, between
i)s • Cook's
'f
Hi-
5,22
1788. February,
AVOYAGETOTHE
Cook's River and King George's Sound ; and we are well affurecf, that the furs to the Southward arc of a very inferior quality. Two fmall veflels would not only coUecl all the Ikins in what harbours are hitherto known, but likewifi explore fuch parts of the coaft as are yet undifcovered ; befides, there are other valuable articles to be procured here, fuch as ginfcng, copper, oil, fpars, &cc. and vaft quantities of fahnon might be cured, which could not fail being a valuable commodity. Thefe, however, arc fuggeftions which I fubmit to thy fuperior judgment, though I am perfeifly convinced that a trade wigbt be ertabliflied on this coaft, that would equal the mofl iimguine expet^lations of thofc who undertook it.
Adieu. Thine, &c.
W.B.
Off Macao, 7 Feb. loth. i
LETTER XLVII.
AT om o'clock <m tlie 9th of Fcbmary, we weighcil, and Hood down Macao Roads to the Southward, with light baffling winds. At five o'clock we difcliarged our pilot. At fiin- fet the Typa bore North f<- deg. Weft, about three leagues dlf- tant i the Grand Ladrone South 3 5 deg. Eafl ; the Peak of Lintin North ^s deg. £aft. At half part fevcn, the tide being done, we z camu
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
323
came to witli the Imall bower, In fix htliora water, over a muddy ^7^^. bottom. ^•■'■''^'■"^'^y-
I fliall juft obfcrve, that Macao is fubjc6l to the Portu^uefe, but being lupplicd with all the nccellaries of life by the Chinefe, they dare do nothing in oppofitic.i to the Viceroy of Canton ; fo that though they are not immediately under the Chinefe Government, yet they are obliged to connive at, and fubmit to all their impofi- tions, however arbitrary they may be.
At four o'clock in the morning of the 10th, wc weighed and made fail, with a moderate North Weftcrly breeze, and clear wea- ther, fteering South a little Eafterly. At ten o'clock, the Peak of the Grand Ladrone bore North 40 deg. Eall, icvcn leagues dillant ^ our latitude at noon was 21 deg. 35 min. North; and the longi- tude 246 deg. 4 min. Weft.
From the loth to the 1 3th, we had generally a moderate Eafterly breeze, and fine weather. In the morning of the 13th we law a Urange fail to the North Weft. Our latitude at noon was 18 deg. 1 min. North. In the afternoon, the fail feen by us in the morning palled clofe by the King George, and we learnt from Captain Portlock that it was the Imperial Eagle, Captain Berkley, and and that he was bound to the Mauritius.
From the 17th to tlie £oth, wc liad a fteady trade breeze, with fine clear weather. At eleven in thv morning of the 2olh, we faw the Illand Pulo Sapata bearing South Weft, about four leagues tliftant. This Illand, at a diftance, has very much the refem- ♦^'anveof a Chinefe (hoc.
S s <?.
JWP^
t i
>^
.-, A VOYAGE TO THE
1-83, At noon tlie lihmd bore Soutli 67 dcp;. Weft, three miles diH-
^^li;;^ tant, and a Ihiall rock to the Weft ward, South 85 dcg. WclL
Our latitude was jo deg. 4 min. North ; and the longitude 250
deg. -^6 min. Weft. From the ]6ih, in latitude 15 deg. 33 min.
we had ftecred nearly South Weft.
Ontlie 2ift, being in latitude 8 dcg. 44 min. North, we found a ftronjr current lettinir to tlie South Weft. In the afternoon of tlie 2^.d, being in 5 deg. 3 i min. North latitude, and 254 At<^. s6 min. longitude, we hauled, our wind to the South South Haft.
At fix in the morning of the 25th, we faw a range of ifiands, c?\\^^'Ci\ftAiiambas in the charts, extending from Kaft North Eaft to •••. 5outh Eaft by Eaft, diilant four leagues ; and foon afterwards, a fmall rocky illaud, called Pulo Domar, bearing South. At noon, the rocky illand bore North 37 deg. Eaft, diftant four or fiv5 leagues. Our latitude was 2 dcg. 36 min. North ; and the longi- tude 2^5 deg. 3 min. Weft ; the weather extremely hot and fultry. We found a current ftill letting ftrongly to the r>o>ith Wdt.
At eleven in the forenoon of the 26th, the l;uul bore South 4'j dcg. Well, about fcven leagues diftant ; the latitude at ]ioon i lieg. 1 1 min. North. At fix o'clock in the afternoon, the Ifland Vay.l'ang bore North Weft by Weft live leagues dillant. During the night we had veiy heavy lightning all round the compaii*.
In the morning of the 27tli, ue faw the I (land Doaiihii, bcar- \ng South Well. Our latitude at noon was S min. South; wa ha<l light winds and fine weather. At fix o'clock we law PuLi* 'Tiiya, winch bore South i<) degrees Well, the I'eak ot ljngii.% Koiiii 64 de^itca Weft. Ow founding was fuuitccn fathom.
NORTII-V^-^ST rr>^n'Y OF AMERICA.
At fcvcn o'clock we /liortencd fail, aiKi at ten broucrht to under our topfails. Wc had IburKiin^s i'loin eight to fixtccii fathon"!, over a iaiidy bottom.
Diuing the niglit wc wore occafionally ; and at five ia t1\e morning of the 28th, made Tail, Ihuiding to the Southward, v»ith a moderate Eafterly breeze. At eight o'clock, Pula Taya bore North 50 degrees Well,
At eleven o'clock, Mr. William Lauder, our Surgeon, departed this 1-^0 ; I'le was taken ill fome time before we left Wampo. For a conliderable time we had great hopes of his recovery, being" young, and of a found conlUtuticn, unhurt by debaucheiy or excefs. Indeed he himfelf entertained the fame hopes till very near tlie lail ; but liis diforder baffled the power of mecHcine, and he religncd himiclf to the Divine will, with the grcatell: compofurc, being perfetily laiiible to tiie lall monKiit.
At noon wc Caw a range of iflands, which extended from Soutb by Fall to Fall North Fall-, the nearell about three miles dillant j Pula Taya bore North 30 degrees Well, diftant (cvm leagues : our 'atitude was i deg. 13 min. South. At four in the afternooii' the body of Monopin-hHI, on the Banca fliore, bore South 50 dcg. Kail. At fix o'clock we had foundings from eleven to fixtccn fa- thom, c>ver a nu;d;Iy bottom, and icon ilV.rwards we law a lirancre tail to tiie North VV^eil.
•^ -^ I*
At fe\eu o'clock we Hiortened fail and hauled by tiie wind, wearing occafionally during tlie niglit : vv: liad foundings from fi:i.tee!i to twenty-lluec f.uliom water. At live in the morning of
tJic-
m
^!
ii*l
ii6
}■ chruMj.
A V O Y A C L TO THE
1-8^. the 291.11, we made fail. At cij^iu c'c'vjck Mouopin-hiU bore EaU,
diiliiut lix leagues.
This afternoon wc committed the body of Mr, Lauder to the djcp. He wiis the tiiil: pcrfon we had loil during the voyage.
At noon Monopla-hitl bore Noith 10 degrees Weft, about iive leaguco diftant : our latitude was 2 degrees 14 minutes South. At one o'clock we faw feveral rocks bearing Eall South Eaft, four miles dilhuit, on wlwch we Ihoitened fail, and hauled our wind to the Ealhvard ; the llrangc Ikil in fight to the North North Well. We had foundings from eight to fourteen fathom water, over a muddy bottom. At three o'clock we faw the Sumatra fliore, bearing South 40 degrees Eaft ; the weather 'vas moderate and hazy, with frequent fliowers of rain. At feven o'clock we let go an anchor in eleven fathom water, over a muddy bottom. During the night we had very fierce lightning all round the compafs. We here found the tide fetting Eaft South Eaft, at ihe rate of three knots per hour.
At five in the morning of the ift of March, we weighed and made fail. During the forenoon we had fqually weather, with thunder, lightning, and heavy rain. At noon the ftrange fail bore North by Weft, about fix miles diftant, fbme high land oil the Banca (hoie Eaft North Eaft, and part of the Sumatra fhorc South by Weft, about three miles diftant ? we had foundings in twelve fathom water. The afternoon was very fqually, accom- panied with a violent ftorm of thuwler, Jightning, and heavy rain.
At three o'clock v/e fliortencd fail, and pafTed by a Dutch man of war lying at anchor. At five o'clock, the ftrange fail which
1.1
I ' I
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
we had fecn for fcveial days pafi:, joined us, and proved to be the Lanfdowne Indiaman, Captain Storey. At half pait fix o'clock we anchored in nine fathom and a half water, over a muddy bot- tom, the Sumatra fhore bearint; South South Weft, four miles dilbnt. During the night we had conflant fierce lightning, the weather exceeding clofe zmd fultry.
At five in the morning of tlie 2d, we weighed and made fail in company with the Lanfdowne. The foundings here vary from eight or ten fathom, to lefs than three fathom water, the bottom fand and mud. The wind being light and variable, we hauled tvi the Northward, and Hood well over to the Sumatra fhore, by which means we got clear of the flioal water. At fix o'clock the Lanfdowne made a fignal of difVrefs, on which we let go an an- chor in fix fathom and a half water, and hoilled out our whale- boat in order to go to the affiflance of Captain Storey; but our boat was fcarccly in the water before fhe filled. On this w? hoifled her in again, and the carpenters gave her a temporary re- pair. At feven o'clock Captain Dixon wont in the boat to alTiil the Lanfdowne.
3^7
i;88.
A lurch.
At three in the morning of the 3d, Captain Dixon returned on board. The Lanfdowne, it feems, had grounded on the fmall flioals off Lufcpara, but was foon hove off without any damage*
At fT\T o'clock we hove fliort, in order to be ready whenever Capts^n Portl xk fhould n^ake the fignal for weighing ; but during the foreiioon we had only light airs and intervening calms. Our latitude at noon was 3 degrees 9 minutes South, the //;// poi/!f \orth. 20 deg. Wcl>, di'l^ant three leagues. Soon after twe!\'e o'clock we wc^hcd and mcuie fail , the foundmgs were fVom four
rUld
\'ii
2B
M.ik!i.
A VOYAGE TO T II E
nnJ n half ti) ik fathom. At four o'clock the Ilhmd LAifcpani bore North SS dci;-. li.ili, tliltaiit i'.x niilis, and the extremes of the land to the Sor.thward, South 65 deg. Well. At eight o'clock .Lufepara bore North 14 ik'j^. \Ve:r. We had foundings in four .fathom water, ove;- a muddy bottom.
Being clear of the Straights of Banca, we flood on during the r.i'Hit, the weather cloudy, with conllant lightning.
During the forenoon of the 4th, we had foimdings from fix to nine fathom water, over a muddy bottom. From this to the 6th we had bttle variety; the weather was extremely clofe and fultry, the tiicrmometer frequently 92 deg. Light bailling winds, with intervening calms, frequently obliged us to let go an an- chor. Our latitude at noon on the 6th, was 4 degrees 17 minutes South.
At fix o'clock in tiie afternoon of the 7th, we fuw the Sifters, bearing South Well by Well", four leagues dillant ; foundings eleven lathom over a muddy bottom. At noon on the Sih, the Sillers bore South 40 deg. Well, fix miles dillant, and the high J.and on the Sumatra ihore. South 41 deg. Well; the latitude 4 deg. §^ min. South. Soundings from eleven to thirteen fathom water, ov',;r a miujdy bottom.
At fix ii'i th.c afternoon we came to with the finall bower in ten fathom water, o\er a muddy bottom, the Sillers bearing South 17 d'.grees Well. During the night we had fome heavy iqua'ls of wind at South South Well, witii nuich thunder and li'/hlnin'r, and a very heavy fea. At four in the morrnng ol ilic <;t]i, wc found the vellel dragged her anchor, on which we h(;ve i; i I'nade la:!. At eight o'clock the weather mod-jiated, and
up ana
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
by ten vvc had nearly a calm, on which wo let go the bell: bower in eleven latiiom water; the >ilkTs bore South 25 degrees Well, latitude 4 degrees ^^ miuuies South.
From this to the 12th we had little variety, light batjling winds, with intervening Ctdms, obliging us fre(|uently to let go an anchor, fo that we made very little progrels.
I7S8.
March.
On the 1 2th at noon our latitude was 5 degrees 22 minutes South. The extiemes of the land in liglit bore from Soutii 20 dc^. Eart:, to North 20 deg. Wed, diilant from the Sumatra Ihorc about three miles. This forenoon we had tiie jileafure to pafs the Sillers, which arc two very fmall iilands, and had been in fight ever lince the 7th. At two o'clock we let go the befl bower in eleven fathom water.
During the afternoon, and greatefl part of the night, wc had iqually weather, with conllant rain.
Early in the morning of the 13th, wc weighed and made fiil. The wind growing light, and inclining to calm, at ten o'clock the whale-boat was hoiiled out, and fent to tow the velle! a-head ; North Illand, where we intended to anchor, in order to fill up our water, being right a-head, about eight miles diilant.
At ekven o'clock, having no wind, and the tide againll u>, we let go au anchor nearly oppofite North Illand ; our latitude at noon being 5 degrees 35 mmutcs.
A breeze fpiinging up about one o'clock, we weighed and llood farther on. By three o'clock, being pretty well into the Roads,
T t
we
i i
3'^
17S8.
Ai.iixli.
A V^ C) \' A G E T 0 T 1 1 E
Nvc came to witl^ tlic bell bower, in nine fathom water, over a* muddy bottom, mooring the lliip with tb.c hirgo kedge and llreani cable. North Illand bore North Lall by North, tlircc miles dillant.
r!^
In the Rop.ds lay three Dutch vcillls belonging to Datavia,
y\t five o'clock in the morning of tlic i4th, the long-boat was hoifted out and lent on Ihore for water. Our people found ex- tcllent water on t!\c Sumatra lliorc, about five hundred yards from tlie beach; fo that by noon on the 15th, our water-calks were all filled. We wanted a fmall fupply of wood for firing, but as there were nunibers of inhabitants on the Sumatra coall, we apprehended that cutting wood there jnighr be attended with difficulty; io, in ihe afternoon of the 15th parties were lent from both veilels to cut wood on North Illand, there being no inha- bitants or other oblh'uclioa to cutting any quantity we wanteil. At {]>: o'clock the people returned on board, having procured a ilifiicient quanity of fuel.
; If
North Illand is very fmall, iKing ])erl»aps not more than two miles in circumference. It is totally covered with trees of various forts, many of which 1 believe are found in our Well Indi.i illands. Thcfe being eternally clothed with a fine green venlure,, iitford an excellent afyhim for the feathered tribe, of which there is great variety. I believe there is no watei- on the illand, fo that wood is the only article which the place altbrds for lhi[)s vvhich lay at anchor it\ the ad;;icent Road.
Tlie people v.ho inhabit Sumatra are ALilaxs, and many of them irdiabit this part of the illanil in order to reap what advan-
lacic
NORTH-WEST COA.ST OF AM ERICA,
.^:>
taa;c they can from u-rccks, or vcHcls in (lillrefs, as well as to trade i7«s. \vith the Ihips which occaiiunally aiiehor here.
March.
I have hcforc obfervcd, tliat the Sandwich Illanders are in al] probahihty dcfcended from thcfe peoj^le, and thuc is, in my opi- nion, an evident fimilarity between them in refjKct to perfon and feature. Tlie Mahiyans, 'tis true, are of a deeper hue, but this may ixjllibly be owing to the extreme heat of the climate.
We purchafed fome fciu-tle from one of the Malay boats, fi?r the (hip's ule. They deal likevvife in Cicneva, arrack, fowls, pumpkins, plantains, iScc. twelve forry fowls they fell for a dol- lar, and their other art'cles in proportion. The Dutch are fre- cjuently concerned with thefe boats, and a Dutchman was prin- cipally concerned in that we traded ^^ith.
Having compleatcd our wood and water, at fix o'clock in the morning of the 161I1 we unmoorcil, and at (even weighed and made fail, landing for the Stjaights of Swnda, with a frelh breeze at WeP. North Welt, and cloudy weather. Towards noon we had fre(iucnt fcpialls, witli heavy lain ; and the wind growing light and variable, about one o'clock we let go an anchor in twenty fatliom water, the iliips in North Illand Roads bearing- North, about iix' miles dilhmt, ami Mid-chaimel liland Soutn 7 <legrecs Ealh The ^veather, during the afternoon, was motleratc and cloudy, but in the lught we had frccjuent Iqualls and heavy rain, attended with thunder and lightning.
At (tvcn o'clock in the mornirig of tlie 17th, wc weighed and made fail, having a moderate Wellerly breeze. At noon the Peak
r t 2 of
•s
It,
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IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3)
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Sdences
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33 WIST MAIN STRICT
WIBSTIR.N.Y. MS80
(716) 877-4503
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Is
1 |
33*
A VO\'AGE TO THE
1-88. of Clracatoa bore Weft South Weft, nbout nine miles diftant : ' our latiuule \\us 5 degrees 59 minutes South.
Towaixls evening, the wind veering to tlie Southward, at i\x o'clock we came to, in thirty-two fathom water, over a muddy bottom, the center oF Mid-channel Uland bearing North 58 dcg. Eaft, the Peak of Cracatoa Welt one-half South, and Prince's liiand South 4^ degrees Weft.
From tlie 17th to the 21ft, we plied in the Straights without making fcarcely any progrel's. During the forenoons we had calms, and fometimes light winds at South Weft. About noon a tolerable breeze generally fprung uj) at North Weft, which, to- wards evening, conftantly Ihiftcd to the Southward. The nights were generally fciualiy, with heavy rain and conftant thunder and lightning, a ftroiig current generally fctting to the North Eaft.
At fix o'clock in the afternoon of the 2cth, after ftanding fomc hours to the North Weft, we came to in thirty-two fathom wa- ter, over a l)ottom of foft mud. The extremes of Cracatoa bore from South 65 dcg. Weft to North 65 degrees Weft, fix miles diftant. '1 he weather being fcjually, we fent down the top-gallant yards.
During the wiiole of the 21ft, wc hail light unfavourable wind*. In the forenoon the people were emi)Ioyed in fetting uj) the forctop-maft rigging. A Duteb. iiiow had anchored within a mile oi lib ill the cwniiig o( the 2oih, and Captain Dixon being defnoiH to procure lome rice from lier, ,\i\([ a few neiellaries wc ftood in need of to re|)aii' t!\e rigging, the whr.le-boat was ImilKd out thij at'iernoon, and Mr. Ciartw, cuir I'irll Male, lint on lujaid 1 the
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 333
the fnow to ciuiiiirc wliether the Dutchman could fupplv us with 17^^- :iiiy ot tlicfc puliculars, but Mynhet;i- was equally bare with our- ll'lvcs.
At five o'clock in the morning of the 22(1 vvc weighed, and made fail, but the wind growing light and variable, and the cur- rent againft us, wc came to a little before noon, with the fmall bower, in twenty-fix fathom water, over a muddy bottom: the Peak of Ciacatoa bearing Well by South, about five miles diltant. The weather being fine and calm, C>aj)tain Dixon embraced this opportunity of filling up our water ; and at one o'clock the whale- boat and jolly-boat were hoilled out, and our Captain took ten hands on ihore for that purpofe. The boats returned at fix o'clock, bringing three puncheons of water, beii g all the empty calks we had. Our people had purciiafcd a go xl quantity of cocoa-nuts and ])umpkins : thev got forty cocoa-nuts for a dollar, and fifteen pumpkins for the fame money.
Though the Ifland of Cracatoa is undoubtedly the moll healthy of any one near the fame fituation, yet 1 do not find that tlKre are many inhabitants here, and thefe fc:!n to be jMalays. Tiic principal reafon that molV people do not i\>: their relidcuce here probably is, that few fiiips lloj) at this illand for rcfrcllmiuii, but 'generally proceed to Prince's Kland, which produces cvciy tiling peculiar to this place, in espial abundance, and the watering place is much moie con\enient.
TheprodiK-e of tliis place is much the fame as Sumatra; fowls, cocoa-nuts, pumpkins, .^c. A number of turtles *vere purciulei for the Ihip's u(e.
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,\ VOVACF- TO T^I B
Dviiinc; tlic wiiolc of the z^^d \vc I;;k1 Iburhcrly wliuls. wliitli prcwiiital our \vciij;Uuii;' anchor. \^^: were t.ivourcil with Captain !*oi tloek'.i ».<)ni])aii) on Iiuaid (huing the grcatell part of the ihiv.
At four o'v^ock in the morning of tlie ::4th wc Jinfwcred the KiiiL': Gn)i<'c\ fiirnal li»r wci;f!iin<; a'icii.Ji', aiul by tive we wciiriieii a- -l niaile lail, ftamiinj, to the Southward, with a freili breeze at S()i;i!i\\'c;l:. Hitherto wc had attempted to get clear of the Straights, bv ihe p;'.iIago Ixrvseen Prince's Ilhuid and Craeatoa; but this was now given up, and it was determined to try foi' the palliigc between i'riuLc's liland and Java I lead.
At noon the Peak of Cracatoa bore North jS dcg. Well, tlie cAtremes of Princes Illand fiom South 50 deg. Well to Well: South Wed , a high jioint on the Java ihore bearing South, dif- tance from the nearell: hmd about five leagues : tlie hititudc was ^' d..g, 21 min. South. Huriiig the afternoon wc made occalional !• .\\d<. b^twecii Piince's Ilhnui and Java, a hca\'v i'well letting in fr>-m the XWilwanl : wc h.ul foimiiings tVo.n forty-three to thirty- \]\ failioni, (uer a muddy bottom. At nine in the evening we let •^^o an anch'). in foity-two fathom water, the high land on Piince's ir.and bcaiiri'j; Suuth ■'6 dcj;. Well.
;\t four o\K)ck in tlie morning of the 25th wc weighed and male iail, witii a frelh Welterly bi'ee/e and cloudy weat'.ier. At r.oon, tlie cxtrentes of Prince's Illand bore from Well North W ell t ) South ('■; deg. Well; a bhilf p(;int on Java beaiing South Well b\ >()uth, a!)out four leagi.j.-> dillant -, the latitude 6 dcg. 3-;; min. lu the ailc!!rM)n tlie wind hauled to the Soiithwaiil, lo that (lind- mg We loll ground) at fi\ o'clcnk we let go an anchor in foity ^'.Ttli'.nn wavcr, over a nuuldy bottom,
At
IT
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
At nine in the inoniiiig cf the 26th \vc wcii^hcd, l)eiiig favonral with a Ihoiig Wclteily breeze, which gave iis great hopes of cleai- intr the hnul.
Durinir the forenoon we were emnloved in woiking througli the pallage between Prince's Illand and Java Head. At nooii, the ex- tremes of Prince's Illand herefrom South 65 dcg. vVeft to North : )ava Head South Well by South, diilance olF lour miles. Om hititude was 6 deg. 36 min. South. ^
About two o'clock, being right in the jxiiiage between Java Head and the Co/>hrs, (a j)arcel of rocks olf Prince's Illand) the broe/,c failed us, and tlic current let us right upon the Java Ihore. Our fituation for fomc time was very dangerous, as it was impolliblc for us to wear; and what was iVi'l uoi-fl, there is no ground in lefs tlian fifty fathom water dole in ihore, and i!iat is iliaip rock;-, fo that little fervice could be expedcd from o-.,r anch')!- : however, in lefs than half an hour, to our great joy, the breeze frelliened, nnd by four in the afternoon we were entiicly out of danger, the rocks off Java Head bearing North S5 deg. l-.a!>, and the peak oi Prince's Illand North 5 deg. Kalt, iivc miles diihinr from the Java Ihore. At fix o'clock, Java Head bore North Eail by North, >lif- tart fix leagues.
Bein- now clear of the land, our anchors were got on the gun- wales, and feeiTied.
Durin- the iv.-lit we had fcpially wcatlicr, v.irh r.iin, and in the morning of \he .r^h, a Irelh North \\ eilerly breeze and. cloiidy weatlier oiu" latitude at noon was /d.'g. V) ''i^'^- ^^^^'^'i-
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A VOYAGE TO THE
Ml our willies now are for a fpccily ami (life voyage to St. He- lena ; anJ tVoni thence to Old Lngland, is added by thine ever,
Off } \y.\ Hi; An, l Maich 2;th. |
Ihri
L E T T E R XLVHI.
I !
OUR paHagc during the month of March .las been the molt tedious, and by far the moll unhealthy of any we have expe- rienced (luring the voyage, and particularly in palhng the Straights of Biinca. The land, both on the Banca and Sumatra coalV, is low, flat and marlhy ; and as we in general had light winds, the weather was extremely hot and fultry. A faint fickly heat feized the greatert part of our people, indeed the llrongeft on board felt its intluence more or lefs : we luckily had a good quantity of Pe- ruvian bark on board, which was regularly given to all the fickly peoi)le, and its good elVeas were foon percejitible ; we alfo had the good fortur>e not to have the leall appearance of the fcurvy amongil us.
Captain Portlock had loft two of his people wilh the flux firce our kvaving Cliina, and iiveral more were in a iickly llate ; how- ever, our getting out to fea railed every one's fpirits.
During
^lil
IT
< i i
""
NORTH-WESr COAST OF AMERICA.
Darins: the zRtli of March we had a frefli breeze at North Wefl", with frequent fcjualls attended with rain. At five o'clock in the af- ternoon we faw a llrange fail to the Northward. In the night, and dining the forenoon of the 29th, the breeze moderated ; about ten o'clock the (Irar.ge fail being pretty near us, we found her to be the C:^ccn Eaft-lndiaman, Captain Douglas. Our latitude at noon was 10 deg. 17 min. South j and the longitude 255 dcg. 8 min. Weft. During the afternoon, and the whole of the 30th, we had light variable winds, frequently inclining to calm. At eleven in the forenoon. Captain Portlock's boat came on board us, and Captain Dixon went on board the King George j the day was clear and fine, but exceeding fultry, the thermometer being 89 deg. Latitude at noon 11 deg. 13 min.
At fix o'clock in the evening Captan Dixon returned on board, and informed us that it was determined for the veilels to feparate, each making the quickeft pallage in their power to St. Helena : on this all our people held themfelves in readinefs to falutc their fellow voyagers with three cheers at parting, but light baffling winds pre- vented the vedcls from coming near enough for that purpofe.
During the 3 ill we l.ad a frefli breeze at South Eaft and Eaft South Ea'ft, and our courfe was North Weft. In the forenoon of the ift of April we had entirely loft fight of our confort : our latitude at noon was 12 deg. 44 min. South , and th-- longitude 257 deg. 48 min Weft.
From the ift to the 9th we had a frefli .^.afterly breeze, the weather rather Iqually at times, with rain. Our latitude at noon on the 8th was 1 7 deg. 50 min. South ; and the longitude 27 1 dc'g. 16 min. Weft. Our cuurle for fome days paft had been Weft
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1788.
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A VOYAGE TO THE
South Wcfl-, and Weft by South : we found a heavy fwell from the Scuthward.
From the 9th to the i6th we had a conftant frefli Eafterly breeze, the weather ratlier wet and fqually at times, though in general it was line and plcafant. Our latitude at noon on the lotli was ::o deg. 48 min. South ; and the longitude 284 di:^. 33 min. Welt.
■ 1
In the evening we had a good deal of lightning from the South- ward, and in the night a very heavy Iquall attended with rain, the wind at South : towards morning the weather moderated, but the wind ftill blew from the Southward. Our latitude at, noon on the j-tl\ was 21 dc'^. 14 min. South; and the longitude 286 deg. 41 min. W'clh
TiU the i'lft: we bad very little variety, but a! two o'clock in the afternoon we had a fquall with very heavy rain, which ihifted the wind to the Northward, lumetimcs blowing a frefli breeze, and frequently light, inclining to calm : in the forenoon of the 2nd the wind again fliifted to the Southward, the weath'ji mode- ruic and cloudy. Our latitude at noon was 23 deg. 9 min. Souths ami the longitude 29S deg. 20 min. Weft.
At five o'clock in the afternoon of the 230, being then fteering WciV, with the wind at South and by W^eft, we faw two Ihangc fiiii in the South Eaft quaitei, llanding North Ealh
On the 24th the fliip's company were put to an allowance of two quarts of water a man per day, exclulive of what was ufcd f'l i peafe. Our latitude at noon was 23 deg. 27 min. South ; and the
longitude
I!
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%
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 339
londtiule -100 ilecr. 22 min. WcH; a heavy fwell fetting in from 1788.
o -^ ° May.
the Southwaiil. v
From this to the 30th no particular occurrence happened ; we were Hill favoured with a pretty Heady Eallerly breeze, and the weather in general fine and plcaHuit. Our latitude at noon on the 30th was 28 deg. 9 min. South; and the longitude 310 deg. 30 min. Weft. The variation of the compafs is here 21 deg. Wcft- crly.
On the ift of May the wind ftiifted to the Northward and Weft- ward ; indeed being now in 28 deg. 55 min. South latitude, we had reafon to expecl the trade-winds would leave us, efpecially at this feafon of the year-.
In the morning of the 4th of May we had vaft quantities of bonctta about tbe fliip ; our hooks and lines were prefently put overboara, and we had tolerable fuccefs : thcfe bonetta proved an excellent dilh for us, and were a moll agreeable variety at this time as our lalt provifions began to g.ow ok, and :on.equently unwholelbme, though as yet we had not ^thank G<.d) any ap- pearance of tlK- Icurvy amongft us, which perhap. .uijht in ume meafure be owing to the bark before-mentioned, the ak ot which was not entirely difcuntiiuKct.
We had aUb a vaft number of gulls, eg-birds. (heer-watcrs, &c. about the vein.1 : Ijud^e theie biicis and ,v . arc drawn U.tn^r byaipeciesof theAW/.., great na-nlv.s of which we law in the vv-u.r,aud geneially f >und(l>me m r c tnhe. wcc.u.gut. is very lu-obable they are on their paii.ge to lomc part.auu fpot Oui
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340
iM;iv.
( •
A VOYAGE TO THE
latitude at noon was 28 deg. 8 niiu. and the longitude 316 dcg. 44 min. Well.
From this to the 7th \vc had Southerly winds and moderate weather: tlie latitude at noon was 30 deg. n min. South ; and the longitude -^21 deg. 58 min. VVefl. In the afternoon the wind hiew freih from the Eaflward, and tlie former jiart of the night was fqually, with thunder, lightning, and heavy rain, which caufed us to double-reef the topfails and reef the mainfail ; under this fail we tiiouglit oiuTehes well fecured for the night, but about two o'clock in the morning of the 8th, a moft violent fquall took us from the Soutli Well -, on which vva handed the topfaiTs, and providentially received no damage : by day-light the weather grew more moderate; the wind lY\\\ to the Southward. Our latitude at nooi; was 30 deg. 54 min. Soutli.
In the forenoon of the 9th we had a ftrojig breeze at North Eaft, and towards the evening the wind hauled to the Northward, Hill blowing very freOi; in the evening it lightened very much to the South Well, which caufed us to clofe-reef the topfails, re- membering the fevere fcjuall we fo lately met with ; fortunately, however, the night continued moderate, and the loth and nth we had light Southerly winds, and fine weather. Our latitude at noon on the i ith was 32 deg. 45 min. South ; anil the longitudj by lunar obfervations, 327 deg. 6 min. Weft:.
During the 12th and 13th the wind blew frefh at North Eaft , rile weather tolerably fine. Our latitude at noon on the 13th waii 34 deg. 2> min. South.
Duriiie:
ill
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NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
During tlic r4tli, and greatcft part of the 15th, we had Utile variety, the wind and weather hcing nearly the fame as on the , preceding days, with a heavy fwell from the Weftward. In the afternoon of the j 5th the vveatiier grew liazy, and the wind vari- able, with a lowering threatening Iky ; about I'evcn o'clock the wind fettled at North Weft, and blew a ftrong gale, on which wc clofe-reefed the topfails, reefed the mainfail, and font down the top gallant yards. At eight o'clock we wore and ftood to the Eaftward. During the former part of the night we had a good deal of lightning from the Northward. At two o'clock in the morning of the 1 6th, we again wore and ftood to the Weftward : the gale ftill increafing, at fix o'clock we reefed the forefail and lianded the topfails. In the forenoon the top-gallant mails were ftruck, and the jibb-boom got in. Our latitude at noon was 36 deg. 10 min. South, the gale ftill continuing with unceafuig violence, attended with frequent fqualls, and an exceeding heavy Wefterly fwell.
At four o'clock in tlie afternoon we found the pumps choaked up. This, in our prefent fituation, was a moft unfortunate cir- cumftancc, and more i^articuiarly, as the velfel, when on the ftar- board tack, made a good deal of water : however, the ftarboard pump was Immediately hoiftcd up, and, on examination, found choaked with land, which had been ufed as a flooi ing for the teas, and which, no doubt, the prelent tempeftuous weather had occa- fioned to work through the ceiling. The pump being cleared, nine inches were cut from the bottom, and it was immeduitely got down again.
The fliip's companv had been for fome time at an allowance of water ab before mentioned} but the weatner being now too llormy
341
Mav.
il
34a
it A
178J?.
AVOYAGETOTHE
10 liavc it fcivcd out, every pcrfoii helped himfclf to vvliat he
wanted, ai. iilual.
During the niglit the gale iViU continued with unceafing vio- lence. At fix o'clock in the morning of the 17th, the main ftay- iail llicct gave way, and the fail blew to pieces in a moment : at ieveu o'clock the ihuboaril pump again choaked, on which it was got up, cleared of the fand, and immediatel^r put down again.
There being gr^ai .enfon to fuppofe that all the water which the veflll maile, did not hnd its way to the pumps, but was flopped in the fore i)art of the fhip by the fand, Captain Dixon came to a determination (with the advice of his Officers) to open the rore- hoKl, in order to examine that part : at eiglit o'clock the fore- hatch was brv)ke open, and about forty chert.s of tea taken out of the hold: thetc. v. as found dry, and in very good order, and (to tur '■Luwr lhtisf.i':l:ion; ther»i was not the leaft appearance of any ^vaicr being l.)dged in this part of the veliei.
At elc'f-'n o'clock wc hoifted up the larboard jiump, and cleared it of fand, but it it was not put down again, as we were obliged to l-t '.p a jvrfon conflantlv in the pump-well to clear it oi' land, whicii ^\ '. -a'. (led up in buckets, and if not conftantly attended, prciently cliuake^. the pump.
The gale continued during the afternoon with unabating vio- lence; Hie ve Icl h.li'.M vd very haiil, and made a great deal of water, U) r'v't ii revpUidl eveiy exertion to keep tiie pump-well clear 01 l.iiid.
Hitherto
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.-
Hitherto our people had been in three watcliea ; hut the tempcf- tuoiis weather, together with the unhicky accident of our pumps ^ choaking up, retjuiring a conftant and unremitting attendance. Captain Dixgn judged proper to put the fliip's company to watch and watch.
In the night, thega!(; rather abated; and about Ctvcn o'clack in • the morning of the iStli, the wether grew moderate, with light winds, and a very iieavy fea from the Soutlvvani, on which we fet the toplails, dofe-reefed.
About 8 o'clock, foun(' a leak under the cownier, on which we got up a number of articles that were llowcd in the lun, (being in a manner ufelefs to us) and hove them overboard ; our obferva- tion at noon gave 36 deg. 30 min. South latitude. During the af- ternoon we had light airs inclining to calm, a very Jaeavy crofs fea ftill running, which caufcd the vcllel to ftrain and 1 il^our exceed- ingly : at eight in the evening a frelh breeze fprung up from the • Northward, and in the night it increaftd to a gale, a heavy fea ftill fetting from the Southward.
In the morning of the 19th, welud a frefli gale at North Weft, with frequent fqualls; the pump-well ftill required conftant attcn- dawce, for the labouring of the Ihip cauied the land continually to work 'through the ceiling, and it was of the utmoft confapicnce to keep the well clear, as bv that means, the water was piever.tcd from lodgino; hi any other part of the veiill. On- latitude at noon was 37 deg. 36 min. South ; and the lopgitud. :,76 < .g. s<^ min W ft, but\he longitude could not by ?ny means beCu-pcnded upon • il was evident by onr latitude of to-d.y, that there was a ftronai current fettmg to the Southward, and it wa. Ncry uncertam * ;^ wluther
14:.
1788.
I lay.
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.M.iv
A VOYAGE TO THE
whether or no it did not fct us to the Eaftward at the lame tune ; liowcver, Captain Dixon determined at all events to llaml to the Northward, tiie wind blowing frelli at North Well. This after- noon our powder was found to be lool'e ami damaged, on whieh four barrels were thrown overboard, relerving only as much as we might poliibly want tor lignals or other temporary purpofes.
From tliis till noon on the 2cth, we haJ. very litt'e alteration ; t'iic wind iVdl bleu- freih at North Well with frequent fqualls; our latitude way :;6 ik'^. §j min. South. As we had made nearly a No)th courfe for the kill: twenty-fuur hours, this obilrvation contirmed our oj/mion of cl Southerly current, but whether to the Eaihvard or Welhvard, it was not cafy to determine, though we had fomc reafon to think it fct about South South Eall. In the afternoon, the wind United to the W'ellward, and during the night it changed to South and South Eall, but grew light as it came from the Southward.
'■ I
Early in the morning of the 2 ill, we had a frefli breeze at Eaft North Eall, on which wc fet all the fail we could, being glad to cmbiace every opportunity of getting to the Northward and Welhvard. Our latitude at noon was 36 deg. 40 min. and the 1 ngitude 337 dig. 20 min. \\'cft. In the afternoon the bree/ic frefhened, and the wind hauled to the Northward towards evening, blowing very hard with frequent heavy Iqualls, which
caufed us to hand the toplbils and reef the courfes. Towards
morning on the 22d, the weather grew more moderate, and at day-light we made fail, iVdl Handing to the Northward, the weather hazy with rain; oin- latitude at noon was 36 deg. South.
The forenoon of the 23d was very fqually, attended with rain; on which wc dofc-reefcd the topfails, and Itruck top-gallant
malts i
, > 1! I
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I
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 341
marts : about ten o'clock we were taken vvltli a niort violent fcjuall, but as we bad timely taken in fail, it fortunately did us no other damage than iplitting our fore ftay-iail. Our ohicrvation at noon gave 35 deg. 4S niin. South latitude.
In the afternoon the weather grew more fettled, the wind Hill hanging to tiie North Wert. Our jnimp-well rtill recjuired clofe attendance, a good (luantity of fund conrtantly working into it.
At three o'clock in the morning of the 24th, we founded with fe- venty fathom line over a foft bottom, which lhev\ ed that we were on the banks of Lagullus, on which we wore (hip, the wind light and variable. At day-light, the weather being pretty moderate, we made fail •, at leven o'clock we faw a large Ihip bearing North Eart, and rtanding to the Northward. Our latitude at noon vas 35 deg. 36 min. South.
I rtiould obferve that ever fmce the bad weather came on, the wind had been generally at North Wert, and that whenever it ihifted to the Southward or Eartward, it grew light and very variable. This had occalioned us to wear as often as was judged conlirtent with our getting to the Welhvard, and it is probable that the current already mentioned had in fome meafure retarded our progrefs.
During tlie afternoon and night we had rtrong North Wertcrly breezes and fqually weather, which kept us mider an eafy fail, and we made occafional boards as fuiled our convenlency.
At day-light ii^ the morning of the 25th, the weather being moderate, wc made fail, the wind rtill hanging at Nerth XVelV.
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About
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17S0. Mav.
A VOYAGE TO THE
About cii;Iit o'clock tlic vcllcl we had foen on the 24th came within hail anci fpokc us. She proved to be the Lanfdcwnc, Cap- tain Storey, who, as has been aheady mentioned, got a-grourd in the Stmi^^lits of l^anca, but got clear of the Srraiglus of Sunda a week before us. As this velfel is elleenied a prime failer, it can- not be denied but that the fight of her at this time infufed frelh fpirit;; into every pcrfon on boanl, efpecially when we compared our b.ul failing vellel to her, and found that with all her boafted fuperiority, and the time Ihc had before gained on us, wc were yet on a /■»//• in regard to the voyage. This incident brougb.t that ubfervation of Solomon frelh into mv memory, " T/v rca is not to the ficift,'" <fc. for we here hail an incontelHblc proof, that " time and chance happeneth to all."
Captain Storey informed us, that he had beer Seating about tiie Cape e\er lince the 1 ^th, which was the fame time wc met witli ilie gale, but did not allign any reafon for his not getting here fooner. Our obfervation at noon gave ^^ deg. ^2 min. South latitude; and the mean of fome lunar obfervations 337 deg. 4S min. Well longitude.
(a the 26th, the v/ind continuing at North Weft, our Cap- lain determined to Hand to the South WetV, hoping lO meet v. ith a change < f wind : the weather being now mo<iejate, and tolerably fettled, the people were put to their former allowance of w;.ter. Our latitude at noon was 36 deg. 17 min. South. In the night the wind lliifted to North North Kail, and in the forenoon ot the ^7th, increafed to a frelh bree/e, on which we fet all the fail we Cwuld carry, and Itecred North Welf by Well : our latitude ;it noon was 36 (\<:'^. 12 min. South, and the longitude 3 ^^9 deg. 39 min. Well : we were dellined to enjoy this favourable breeze bui a
Ihoit
:)'
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
fliort timo, for in the afternoon the wind fliifted to the North \Vc(l, blowing very frclh : and towards evening increafed to u rtrong gale, which continued all night with unceahng violence, attendal with heavy fcjualls, much rain and lightning, with a heavy head-lea : towards morning the gale abated, and in the foienoon we had light winds and a heavy crofs fea, which caufed the vcilel to labour very much.
Tor fome days previous to this gale we had got fcarcely any fand out of the li'ell, and the pump was fixed in its place, but now, the motion of the veffel obliged us to take it up again, anc" we got up nearly as much fand as when this unlucky accident firft happened. Our latitude at noon was 37 deg. 11 min. South, the weather fqually, with rain, the wind iVill at North Well:. At eight o'clock in the evening, to our great joy, a frelh gale came oti at South Welt, and during the night it blew very heavy, with frequent fqualls, conllant rain, and much lightning: we carried all the fail we could with prudence, being exceedingly anxious to double this Cape. During the wiiole of the 29th, the wind blew ilrong from the fame favourable quarter, and we lleercd North Weft, and North Weft by North, as b..'ft fuited our purpofe, there being about two pomts Wefterly variation.
The wind on the 30th, was equally favourable to us: in the forenoon of the 31(1, the wind veued to South Euft, ftill blow'ng a fine fteady bieeze, witli moderate weather; our la i. 'ale at noon was 33 deg. 44 min. South; and the longitud.- by lunar ob- fcrvatK.n, 347 deg. 50 vVeft : lb that to our great comfort wtn-m had doubled this hithe'to formidable Ca])e, the charts placing the SoLirh Weft point of land in 34 deg. 2O min. South laatude, ard -241 deg. 37 min. Weft longituac.
147
17S8.
Mav.
i
ili ■,
I-!!'
lili
M'
1788.
A V O Y A G E T O T HIi
I fhall lay down the pen at prcfcnt, but, if Providence per- mitj thou llialt liavc a continuation from
Thine, Sec.
W. B..
Ul I
At Sea. 7 May 3irt. 5
LETTER XLIX.
HAVING reafon to think that there was a current fcttint; Ihoiigly to the Wcftward, in the afternoon of the 31ft: of Mav, we hauled by the wind, fleering North and North by Eaft.
On the iftofjune, we had a fine breeze at Eaft, with clear fettled weatlier, our latitude at noon was 32 dcg. 4 min. South.
The pump-well having for fomc time been pretty clear of fand, the ftarboard pump was got into its place, but fo fixed that it could be got up ^vith eafe fnjm time to time, as occafion required.
(>i
The weather, during the time we were doubling this Southern promontory, had not been fo feverely cold as we were taught to cxpea, the mean of the thermometer being about 54 deg. thougli thi- miUlncfs ju-obably has been occafioned by the wuul feldom blowing from the SoutliVvard for any length of time.
i From
H
Ka
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
From the il>, to the 3(1 of June, we were favoured with afieni breeze from the iuiftward and Southward. Our latitude at noon on the -jd, uas 29 deg. 54 min. South 5 in the afternoon the wind lliifrcd to North North Weft, hlowing frelli with frequent fqualls: as we yet depended on a Wciterly current, wc fteered North Eart, and Eaft North Eaft, as the wind permitted. In the morning of the 6th, the wind grackially Ihifted to tlic Weft ward and Southward, which proved very fortunate, for the mean of feveral fets of lunar obfervations taken on the 6th: our latitude (being then 27 deg. 17 min. South) gave only 346 deg. 24 min. Wert longitude. This plainly fliewed that our depending on a current fetting to the Weftward was extremely fallacious, and that in fac\, we had met with nothing of die kind.
The weather now grew moderate and fettled, with a fine ftcady breeze .t South South Eaft.
Though the vellel had now very little motion, yet we frequent- ly got up the ftarboard pump, and always found a quantity of fand in the well- On the 9th, our allowance of water was increaied to five pints per day, and the people were again put into three watches. Oui Ltitu^le at noon was .3 d.r. 44 min. South, and the longitude 352 deg. 5 mm. Weft.
From this to the 14th, nothing particular occurred. _ Our la- tinule at nocm was .7 deg. 6 mia. .outh, and the longitude up- wards of :6od.;. Ae.t nat we had conqn.telv Circumnavigated
tlK. Glc/^n on wiuch u.c .i:.i, having loit a day in our recko.uig, weborro.^.l a day, cahing this ^initead of the 14th) ^.^^^^:v //-
l.'yboj JullC,
349
1788.
June.
;l *
„l^ ^
ii
5^
June.
A V O V A G E T O T 11 E
Nothii^j; matciial happened f'-om this to the i8th: we kept llaiurniL', fov St. Helena, with a freili South Eaftcrly breeze aiul line weather. This itlaml is placed in the charts in 15 deg. 55 inin. South latitude, and 5 dc^. 49 Weft longitude. At half palt three o'clock in the morning of the 18th, wc faw St. Helena, bear- in<'- North W^'ft about lix leagues diftant: at fix o'clock the whale-boat was lu.iiled out. and Mr. White fcnt on Hiore with difpatches to tlie Governor.
On ftanding into the road we had foundings from twenty-ninc to nineteen fathoms water, over a muddy bottom.
At eleven o'clock we anchored with the beft bower in nineteen fathom wa.er; tiie exiren^e of the illand bore from North 7. deg. Ealt to South 65 deg. Weil: the church South 6 deg. Weft.
Vv\; had tlie piea'ure of finding our confcMt the King George ],,,.„ ,,,,.1 eve. V perfon on boaid in good health. Ma.iy of Captain I ,„ As people l.aci been ill of the fcurvy, fince they parted from ^,^. "|,,,^ i,v a r.guUu uij of the various anidcorbutics, which he liaci o ' b. 'm<1. their health was pretty well ic-eftabiiftied before he a.i'iv.d .u Sc. Heiena.
In dr,:ihling the Cape of Good Hc.pe, Captain Portlock kept much Pe.,., the Kuui u ai. vnc had done, a.vi hau ..ot io long a coMtPiaa.,ce,;t had v...rh..-, io that heairive.l huehx davs betore u^ nnl n:v mg cor.pU.tcd mi- water, t^c. he intended to l;avc haled
thi;, lUo.liir.g,
but on oil. anlva. he deferred it till the munow.
r>-f aes the Kinj George, we found here, the Lanfdowne, Cap- tain
■■1
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
jj
tain Storey, the Queen, Captain Douglas, three other Eaft- 17S8. India (hips, and a Tufcan veflel.
Our bufincfj at this idand being principally to fill up our wa- ter, no time was loft in making every ncceilary preparation for that purpole ; it was no Ids neceiliu) for w. to procure whatever refrelhments the illand afforded, but we \ve:e giveiA to underftand, that frcfti provilions were dealt out very fparingly, owing to the number of Ihips touching here.
On the 19th, we received th/ce quarters of frcHi beef, which was air that could pofTibly be fpared us : to make amends how- ever for this detieiency, a quantity of rice, potatoes and pump- - kins were purchafed, and diftributcd amongft the lliip's company.
From this to the 23d, the people were I uficd in watering, fet- ting up the rigging and other neceffary employments: fome of them were daily fer.t on fhore to gather water-crellls, ccUeiy, and mint, which grow here in great plenty.
At five o'clock in the afternoon of the 24th, we unmoored, and at feven weighed and made iail, ftanding out of the road with a lij;ht Eafteily bree:te, and clear, weatlicr. At noon on the 25th, James-Town bore South 40 cleg. Fall, ten leagues dillant. Our paifage from St. Helena to this place afforded little variety, ex-^ cept that about the latitude of 6 deg. North, wc tVll in with light variable winds, and clofe fultry rainy weather; our longitude at the fame time was about 27 deg. Weft. The pilot (who is juft: come on board) informs me that Captain l\)rtlu':k arrived in the river about a fortnight ago, all his people in good health. ^^ As I hoievery (hortly to have the pleafure of feciii^, ihci-. I TiLilt
i' I
m
.5«
NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
contliulc my narrative, with rctuining niy grateful thanks to that kind I'loviilcncc which has i'.xi'dy conducted us to our native country, after a long and tedious voyage.
m
Off Do\ ir, }
; -,
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1
APPEN'
II' >»
ivc
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ih
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( aiAi-i- linnmiis ,
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'. !
APPENDIX.
No. I.
NATURAL HISTORY.
AT Sandwich Iflands there is a great variety of crabs and cray- filh : one of the former was of fo Angular a make, that I caufed a drawing to be made from one that I brought home, in two views, from which the annexed plates were engraved.
It is of a pale brown colour, but was much darker when alive -, the back is fet with fmall conical protuberances, pointing towards the front. It has four legs, and f )ur fwi-nmcrc or pai-nated legs, the bafes of which laft arc not on a tine wth thofe of the legs, but placed, two of tlie-in on the fide of the tail, and two witi.iii it, which,' as well as the fwimmers and the edgvs of the body, arc bordered with hair. The eyes aie .laced on tub.s, and cor^ni .:.d the wbole hcmilphcrc : it is a male, and I t" '« \i lo be the C^uar R,minus of Linniuus, p. 1039 of his Syjicnni iMUune, So. 2.
Vv
It
1 i ■'
i»!
554
■»".
APPENDIX. No. r.
It is in the CoUcdioii of Il'aac Swainfon, IIU\. of Loiulon.
At the fame idamls are great plenty of beautiful fliclls, fuch as C\prcfu Ti^rifiii. Miiiiritiaiuiy Tiilpti, and others of that L;enus ; ami numbcrlcfs fpecics of the fniallcr kinds, of which hill the na- tives form necklaces, bracelets, and other ornaments : one of thcfe necklaces aftorded a fingular i'pecies of the llclix genus of Liiinitus, ^\hich I was infornicil is a frefli-watcr Ihcll. It is outwardly fmooth, has feven I'pircs, and is of a black-brown colour, except the tip, wiiich is pale-yellow : the infide is fmooth and white, and the mouth is marginated within. It is remarkable for a knob or tooth on the columella, but which does not wind round it, con- fe(jucntly excludes it from the Vohita genus of Linnteus, to which at tirll fight it appeals to be related. As I prefume it to be a fpecies hitherto undefcribed, I have taken the liberty to give it the the trivial name of Apex Fuka^ or the Tdloi^ Tip. A figure of it, in two views, is given in one of the following plates.
Specimens of this kind are in the Lcverian Mufeum,
At the mouth of Cook's River are many fpecies of fliell-fiili, moft of them, I prefume, non defcript ; and of all which I fliould have endeavoured to have got fpecimens, had bufmefs permitted. Among the bivalves we noticed fome of a large fpecies, of the cardium, or cockle genus ; half a dozen of which would have afforded a good fupper for one pei fun ; but for a rcpall of that kind, our men prelerred a large ipecics of the Solen genus, whicli they got in quantity, and were ealily difcovered by their fpouting up the water as the men walked over the fands where they inha- bited: r.s I fupjiofe it to be a new kind I have given a iigure of it in the annexed plate. 'Tis a thin brittle Ihell, fmooth within and
X without :
» /..w/» ./^/w-
/.lii>cii'.'ii/.</ilii,l\,t/lil.l./'ni;i /(i.UI .\"'J. Fii'iii A',ii,,/iiilr/i /.'I'li/i,/.'
r.ii" rii,':-fr
ft'
t ■
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1 1
I I
,1 I
I Till Ijii Ai.ix luK
It: I.,,,.,; I,l,„
A./n/ii SmiiiIwi.Ii KI.iimIm. ;' .Sulni l',•^Hllll^ //■■/// ^^l.lk^ Itiv.i .W/.'Coiill ./A
l',.H,,l.,.l.,. zrt, .1,1 .1,,. i. I.,, ,:,.,, II,.,..,. /If,
/;.(/,/.,///.■<,//..
APPENDIX. No. I.
without : ' lie valve is furniflied with two front, and two lateral teeth J the v^lier has one front and one fule tooth, which Hip in between the others in the oppolite valv : from the teeth, in each valve, proceeds a ftrong rib, which extends to above half-way acrofs the ihcll, and gradually lofes itfjlf towards the edge, which is fniooth and Iharp. The colour of the outfide is white, circu- larly, but faintly, zoned v.ith violet, and is covered with afmooth yellowifli-brown epiileimis, which appears darkeft where the zones arc : the infideis white, flightly zoned, and ti^'ied .vith violet and pink. The animal, as in all fpecies of this g-nus, protrudes be- yond the ends of the fliell very much, and is exceeding good food,
A fine fpecimen of this kind is in the Colle6lion of John Swainfon, Eft), of the Cuilom-Houfe, London.
355
'
W'e faw alfo, on this coafi:, a kind of mufcle, in colour and flia! e iiiLich Hke tiie common eatable mufcle of Europe, but diifc! i in i^i'ig circularly ^vrinkled, and a great deal larger. One valve ! Cvvv . t (^jceii C^ii.ulotte's lilands, meafured above nine i!.':h..s ind aii half in i^^ngih.
With pieces of th.cfc mufcles, Hiarpened to an cxquifite edge and point, the Indians head their harpoons, and other inftruments for filhing. They fallen them on with a kind of refmous fub- ftance.
At Falkland's Illands we met with a curious kind of Hiell oi the Anemia' genus of Linna;us, of which, though the fpecies are numerous in a loHil rtate in moll p.-^.rts of the globe, few have been difcovered recent, or frefh from the fea. One only of this fort was before known in Europe, which was brought over by my
Vy 2 late
' I
356 APPENDIX. No. I.
late worthy Commander, tlic much regretted Captain Cook, in his firll Voyage round the World : it was in the Portland Muleum, and was named by the late celebrated Dr. Solander in his MSS. dercrij)tion of th^ fliells of that fplendid cabinet Anomia vaiofa, wliich fpeclmen is now in the collection of M. Calonne, of Lon- don.
i,!:
This kind (as do all that are properly of this genus) f\dheres to coral rocks, by a ligament that comes from the animal through the hole in the larger valve.
The internal ftruilure (peculiar to fliells of this genus) is very fmgular, and confifts of two tcftaceous rays, which commence near the hinge in the Icflcr valve, where they adhere ; from whence,, leaving the (hell, they proceed to near the edge, then bend to- wards tlic other valve, ;uul turn back to their commencement, v>he:-e t'aey unite : this internal part is very delicate, and breaks upon the fmallert touch, but is thicker in the part neareft to the larger valve. The fliell t.tkcs its name from certain parts of the animal, which run in a branched form along the inlide of the fhell, which being held to a Itrong light, or a candle, gives it a beautifully veined appearance. The outfide is Imooth, and of a pale brown colour.
Tl'.e fpccimen from which tlic eiiLnaving was made, is \\\ tlie private coiieclion of Mr. Cieoi'gc Hiunrhrey, deakr in natural curiofities, Albion-lheet, near Black-friars Bridge, London.
I'ndcrilanding, after I came home, that fonic of the bir ^; I brought with me had not been engraved, thougii dercn])ed by authors, particularly the \\c\s fpecics by Mr. Latliam, and j>:-e-
fuhiiiig
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^1 lii'n I'llli I il lire l..lh \. //I'/// .Si///t///'n// /.</'///!&. /.■////i////.^ .^///o'/>.w'<.\':'/ ■'./'/'<•'. I.. V'.' /('i.
;;,/'!,.</i,:' ..,. *. .1./ .///,./. .v <„,„ /),.,•„ i;hl.i'.,ii.
l>.ll<..ii
APPENDIX. No. i.
fuming that plates of them, done from correa drawings, would be no fmall embellilhment to tliis work, I have therefore given the figures of four of the moft curious, and with Mr. Latham's pcrmi^lion have annexed their defcriptions^ as printed in his Sy- nopfis of Uirds.
YELLOW TUFTED BEE-EATER,
Lathams Sympfs, vol. ii. p. 683. No. 18,
*' Size of a lark : length from bill to tail fourteen inches. Bill an inch and an iialf long, pretty much bent, a)id fharp at the tip ; the nolh'ils covered with a membrane : tongue divided into threads at tiie end : the general colour of the plumage is glofly black : the feathers about the nead and J.uout Ihort and pointed : beneath each wing is a large tuft of yellow feathers, which do not appear when the wing is clofcd : on the vent is another patch of the fame colour : the tail is greatly cuncated ; the two middle feathers are fcven inches in length, and the outer ones only tv.o inches ; both the outer feathers are white on the outer webs aiul tips, the otiicr<; black ; the ends are pointed : the legs are black : the outer and middle toes connected to the firll joint.
" Thefe birds are met v/ith in plenty at O-ivhyhec, and others of the Saiiilwicb JJics ; at which place the natives catci) the birds alive, and, alter plucking out the yellow feathers, give them their li- berty ag:\i!i, makinu; uie of tiie fea'Jiers in their various ornaments and dreiich ; beautilul fpecimens of which may be feeu in the I. c Vii u ( ;,'/ ii Iiijlit ill . ' '
I'luis far Mr. Latham; to which I take the liberty to adJ, that tlic Ipccimen from which the annexed Cn'/rax in:- v>aG nncle, ciif-
ICJ iLli
:>y
S APPENDIX. No. I.
fjiTcd from that dcfcribal by lilm in having all the tail fenthcri ipotted with white at tlic ends ; probably his was cither a iicn or a young bird.
The fi/c is a little reduced in t!ic C!igravlng, in order to get it within the conipafs ot' the plate.
WHITE WIXGED CROSS-BILL.
L(7f barn's Sy>ic/>/Js, vol. iii. j). loS. No. 2.
" The fize of a goldtinch : the bill is of a diilky horn colour: noftrils covered with brilUes of a pale buff colour ; at the bafe of the bill, from eye to eye, a Ibeak of brow^n : the feathcis on the head, neck, back, and under parts, arc whitiih, deeply margined with crimfon; and, as fome parts of the white appears not fully covered with the ciimfon, gives the bird a mottled appearance : the rump is pale crimfon : the vent dirty white : the wing is black, marked with a bar of white fiiom the flioulder, paffmg obli juely backwards, and a fecond bar, or rather fpot, of the fame below that, but only the inner half: the fecond quills are each of them tipped with white : the tail black : legs brown.
" I have received this both from riuc(lon s-Bay and Ne-iv- ^7jrk.'*
The bird I have figured difters from Mr. Latham's in fomc par- ticulars ; it wants the crimfon colour, and the brown bar between the eyes, fo that it is certainly a hen, differing from the cock ex- actly as in the common crofs-bill kind,
Mine was fliot at Mont ague- IJkindy on the North-Wcjl Coajl of
PATA-
w'liiir Wim.mmi c idiv Kill.///.//' ///, .rz/.v/v/. .7.,/ :////,
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■^
APPENDIX. No. I.
PATAGONIAN WARBLER.
Lathams Synopfn, vol. iv. p. 434. No. 26 '' This is a large fpecics : length nine inches : bill one inch and a cinartcr, a httle bent at the tip; colour black, with cinereous edges: the upper part of the body, and tail, cinereous; beneath paer, marked w.th white ftreaks : chin and throat white : ove th eye a ftreak of the fume : the wings dark aHi colour, marked with pale brown, and a bar of the fame acrofs the covms : the quills have brown edges : outer tail feathers white : le^s bhck • toes long: hind toe and claw long and ftout. The femaU or what IS fuppofed ll.ch, has fewer Iheaks of white oh the bread.
" Inhabits r.... ^./ Fucgo. Met with on the >-teZ., and is fuppofed to live onJJ:cll-JiJb ovfea-icorms.
" It is apt to vary both in fize and length of bill."
Mr. Latham is of opinion, that the bird I have figured is the female It differs from the above account in being cinereou throughout, except the throat, which is dirty-white, fpotted with a cinereous colour, and that it is a native of Fa/i-fa^i^'s IJles.
JOCOSE SHRIKE.
Lathams Synopfis. vol inr-rr r -, • • r t -
■> ^-^ ' "'• '• P- ^7S- — Lcinius jocofus Linncci S^:}.-t„a Nat Ufa-, i. p. 138.
'•• Size of a Lark : length ks^n inches and a half. The bill is black.fh, rather ih-aighter than in moll of the genus, and fur- mihed only with a very line notch near the tip : the crown of the head IS black, except fume long brown-black feathers, which form
a ciell :
3^9
t.
;r.D
APPENDIX. No. I.
;i ciefl: : fules of the head, throat, and fore-part or tlie neck, wh.tc: from each comer of the mouth is a bhick Hne, continued backwards : unck^r each eye is a fmall fpot of hvcly red : the upper raris of the Dody are brovn ; the under parts dirty-white vent red : on the lower part of ihe neck and breail: a kind of a brown band : quills brown : the tail is much cuneiform in fliape ; in co- lour brown, but the f )ur outer feathers on each fide have white tips :
legs and claws black.
" This is a Chinrje bird, and called in thofe parts by the name of
Ko^'kauo/i."
I had a pi.lr of thefe birds, which I bought In Canton^ and kept alive till I got o^ \\\f:. Cape of Good Hope. They would eat rice, but were fonclciV of C\)ckioaches, with whi-.h I principally fed them. I bcii'.'vc their doavh was owing to neglect, occaiioncd by the bad ^vcatlier we experienced at that time.
II /,„•,;, ././,;■
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•1
APPENDIX. No. II.
TABLES of the ROUTE of the KING GEORGE and QUEEN CHARLOTTE, the Variation of the Compafs, and Meteorological Obfervalions during the Voyage.
X. B. IiuhefL- Tables, the Situation of the Sliips at Koon is fet down, ami the Variation,
as obfcrved Ibnie Tunc the fame Day.
TABLE L
From St. Jago to Falkland's Iflands.
Time.
Od. 29, Noon. !
Nov. I
Latitude iNorth,
liOngitude
14 48
13 20 23 06 9 20
II 34 22 40
10 06 22 15 10 16
S 46: 22 14
8 00, 22 Oc
i
7 42; 21 52
7 381 22 02
I I 7 141 22 CO 1 I 02
Variations Weft.
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
8 1 1 ^ North Eafl. Moderate wind, and cloudy
- 1 weather. 8o;i- E. b. S. Moderate and clear. 80 From E. to E. b. N. Ditto. g J ( EafL Plcalant weather ; at night, light-
^EafL Plcalh ( ning.
g ^E. S. E. Moderate and cloudy, with
■^ ( ditto.
82 j Variable and fqually.
j^^ (Ditto, with thunder, lightning, and
'' ( rain,
84 j Variable and fqually, w ith rain,
y^ (Ditto, with thunder, hghtning, and ( rain.
A
■i
4 I
I
APPENDIX. No. n.
T A B L E I. Continued. Iloutc of the King George and Queen Charlotte from St. Jago to
Falkland's lilands.
Time.
.-?5.
Latitude
North.
Longitude iVariations
1 0
"i^^'-^'JU 2.12
Noon. ^1
J 4.
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
T 1
.4
4 i 3
1C) 2Z 20,
28^ zr 40' 9 30
?f)' 21 2/i!
-/)■' 2 2 I I|
>,-.' 2 24
OO'
i;i o
j Sou;h.
luj O 2 2
I' I 27
^'j\ 4
2:^i 6
24!l ?
n (Eiifl-. Squally, with thunder, light- ( ning, and rain.
81 j E. S. E. Frelh breezes, and cloudy. Bi ] Variable. Squally, with rain.
82 j Ditto. Cloudy, with rain, n ^Variable. Squally, with lightning an.i
'I rain.
So j Ditto. Frcfli breezes, and cloady.
t, ( S. E. Ditto, and clear. Saw Ibmc wild
^^ I ducks.
22! 22 30' 9 a6' 80 Is. E. A frefli breeze, and cloudy.
-,2! 25 29 80 j S. E. b. S. Ditto weatlvjr.
I '
80 1 S. E. b. S. Moderate and cloudy,
■yS-r S. E. A fifth breeze, and cloudy.
--B Ditto. Moderate and cloudy.
"8 ',- i S. E. l-'relh breezes, and cloudy.
' j 8. ]<:. b. E. 13itto weather.
\ E. S. E. Fieih breezes. Saw a fail to
'^ l theeallward.
26 14.
27^02
09 28 07,
4v 29 27.\
70\ ^O 10
' I ' i
57 ,^o 45
42' 3 F OO'-
28, 3! 2-;
oS! ?2 DC'
5 5'
:8
1 ■> ^o
25; 14 4
26m 6 39" 33 GO,
2-! 18 "li ■:.] 'il'
: '^ r ■ • 1
2" 20 CI U 2;i
I i ' -^1
2v 2 1
■;o 21 L\c." 1.-^'
1
4 5
o'
80
79
80
81
V
Si
80
31i 33 47: Fn!l.
7V
vSO
E. b. S. Ditto weather.
j^ail-. Moderate and cloudy.
K. S. E. Ereih breezes, and clear. I Ditto. Ditto w eather. ; v.. N. E. l-'rcdi breezes and ilear. 1 j )itto. Ditto, and cloudy. ( \ ariable. A frelh gale, under doubk ^ reeled topfails.
\'ariable. A iVelli brec/c, an.l eiv.r.
Ditto. L,i_ulit breezes, and cloud) .
Variable. Ei,i;lii winds, and cK;ir.
22- 12 <0 2c 2 ■iH "'i N'.N.i'v. 1,'t'ht ail^, and line \\e.;t,ier.|
APPEND I X. No. II,
r A B I. K I. Contimicc). Route of the Kin^ George and Queen Charlotte from St. Jago
to Falkland's Iflands.
Tinu
iioutl;. Wclh
Dec. ^, ), Noon. i|^+ 4^1 37
3^
4iJ5
5125 626
7 8
9
10
27 29
31
-> -y ,1 -■
I .) 26| 3S
i^^l 39 46 40
39
33 s'6
N'uriatioii:
113.^
>7
44
4-5 1 61 44
36 45
5 25
'5
09 36
43
35
46
47 4S
48
12 J 3
15
16
'7
iS
1941 01
2C,42 30 53
2144 C'O 54 2 2,45 28
26
2r 40
02 27
35 1 1 14 36
09 1 1 iC
21
00
07
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
75 SVai-iiib
39 53 50 [o 26
4914 03
PI
2346
2447
S3 I 53
54S 14I 53
:o
^^7 lO
I ■;
3^)
3^^ '5
I
42! I
k'. Falh breezes, and elondy.
Ditto. Ditto, and hv.y.
S. S. K. Lioht winds, and clondv.
S. E. Modcnite and pleafant weather.
Ditto. Ditto, and douJy.
E. S. K. Frefti brecxe:>, and cloudy. A Twell from E. S. !■:.
Ditto. Freih breezes, and ck'ar.
Variable, Ditto weather.
Ditto. A Ibonii- uale.
Variable. Moderate and ckar. A head fca froni the S. S. W.
\. W. Strong breezes, and clear.
W, N. W. Light winds, and cloudy.
N. E. Ditto winds, and clear.
\. N. E. Moderate and hazy, A great ' ( number of whales round the ihip. - }{ Variable. Ffclh breezes, and thijk wea- '^-( thcr.
(Ditto, Ditto, and a heavy lea from ^^ } the S. E.
7^>
72 75 73i
7^ 72
70
67 )
75 70
72 71
66
' ' ( cloudy. Some whales in fight.
' Variable. A b.eavy uale, and crols fea. Saw a
Moderate and clear. Saw fea birds. \y. M. W. Freih breezes, and clear. Variable. A heavy gale, and high lea. S. \V. to AVeil. ' A ilrong gale, and
■■^\
lea
^,\S.\Y. to Welt. A ftrong gale, and 'I ha/v, with Imall rain. ;] I Variable. A t
re ill
an
3 {'loud
OU'.IV.
A i
4
A P P E %' D I X. No. H.
■i i |
'11 |
i:\ |
|
m |
■1 |
t ^1
TABLE I. Continued.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from St. Jago
to Falkland's Iflands.
Time.
I .atltude bouth.
Umiiitude Variations s- Wi-lh Ea:t. ' "
■ - > ; .
Dec. 26?! ,1 ^ _ Noon. ) ^^ ^ •'-
2748 35
53 26
19 26
2848 37i 54 42
2949 ^^j 55 52
3050 31 55 55
31 50 04 56 CO
1786. Jan.
1 s'O
250 40
57 »^
58 00
51 C2j 58 49
451 10 59 40
I
551 12 50 ^4
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
, J W. S. W. A frcfli breeze, with rain ^9t^ at times.
5 Variable. A fiefli gale, and cloudy. ^^7 ^ Some whales in fight.
I Weil to South. Thick fqnally wea- ^7 I ther.
^Variable. Frcfli breezes, and cloudy. •^^ ' A heavy head fea
Ditto. Squally cloudy weather. Variable. Heavy Iqualls, with lull.
49i
45
'[-Ditto. Frefh breezes, and thick hazy 48 J weather. Great numbers ot" Icals
I and penguins round the flxip.
'At three A. M. law the land S. E. b. S. 50 •, 10 S. b. W. Frcfti breezes, and hazy, wind variable.
\ Variable. Light winds, and cloudy, •^^ ( with rain. 52 1 Ditto, Frcfli breezes, and cloudy.
^ At eleven o'clock this day came to an-
( chor in Port Egmont.
N.B. The mean of the Thermome- ter, when among thcle iiland^,
54 degrees.
APPENDIX. No. II.
Roule of the
TABLE 11. King George and Queen Charlotte from Falklantl'; Iflands to the Sandwich Iflands.
Time.
Latitude South.
Jan. 23,1
Noon. J
51 35
2453 03
25 26
52 40
53 39
2754 51
285s 28
29156 00
30I56 48
31
Feb. I
2
57 52
58 7 58 09
3'S9 24
460 14
559 21
660 Oj
7,6° »5
859 44
Longitude Weft.
60 54 62 49
63 39
64 29
63 40
63 19
62 39 62 19
62 20
63 40
64 55
66 13
67 30 67 18
69 35 7^ 30 7^ 50
Variations Kail.
25 00
25 36
10
H sr
8
3
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
South. Light winds, and fine weather. 54 . New Ifland in fight, S. E. Diftant three leagues.
^ N. W. Frefla breezes and cloudy. No '^ ( land in fight. 50 [ Ditto. Light breezes, and foggy.
( W. S. W. Frefli breezes, and cloudy. ^ ( Seals and penguins round the Ihip.
r Variable. Strong gales, and fquaily,
J with lightning to the S. W. Statcn's •^° 1 Land, W. S. W. Dillant fix or
1 eight miles.
(S.S. \V. Strong gales, and fqually. A ^' ^ heavy fca.
43 43
Variable. Ditto, ditto. Wf(t. Frelh gales, and hazy.
LS. W. to N. W. Moderate and hazv. ^'^ ( A heavy iea.
S W. N. W. to S. S. E. A frefli breeze, ^•^ ( and hazy. 43 j Variable. A frelli breeze, and cloudy.
^ Ditto. Frclh g-iks, and fqually, with '^^ ( rain.
<> N. N . W. to S. W. b. W. Strong gale., ^^ ( and a heavy lea trom the welluuid. 42 I V^ariablc. I^'rclh gales, and cloiidv.
\ W. b. N. I'rcdi brcezcb, and line wea- 4+ } ther.
\ Wiriable. Ditto, with rain. A hcavv ^^ } I'well from the S. W.
, \ Ditto. I iclli breezes, and fqually, with '^'^''} rain.
If
APT !•: N D I X. Ko. II.
1:1
I i
T A B L r: II. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland's
Iflands to the Sandwieh lilands.
Time.
Latitude 'Lon'>iti'.vlc|\'.iri:itums g-
South.
\\\-\\.
}:aft.
Winds, Wcadicr, anJ R'.miarks.
Pcb. •9V Noon, j ^^
3S^
455
656
7 5.5 8S5
2055 21 55 2254
2 3 '5 3 24|53 2553 2652 ^ — ' - -»
2S;52
jMarch 1 15 i
2 ;o
34'^ 4|4^
09; 73 02 73
75
n 1
37^
46
44
19
1 1
5^ 3'
2&
26
4
o
J 5 I 2
17
49 14
77
79
80
Si 82 82
26
Si 81 81 82
«3 84
82
T4I 84 56 84
"'^, '^3
3'! ^2
52' S2 •:.6: So
17
20
i3;i7 H,,
4428 3*, 09
37
47
5' 10
19
30
49 18
54
40
52 1
34
5'
4
34
42
41
39
43
54!
02
44 40 42 43
41
44: 46
45 45 44i
46
46
45 44 T
45 46
47
47
47i 48
47 4S 50
SWuiablc. Frelh breezes. A heavy rwcll
I from vS. \\ .
I South to \V. S. W. Strong breezes, and
( liiow.
I S. W. Strong ealcs, witli hall.
^ S . S , W. to W . N . VV. l- relh breezes ,
I and cloudy.
I N . VV. Freih breezes, and fqually , with,
( rain. I
I S. W. Moderate and cloudy. \\V. N. W. Ditto, ditto, faw fomc } fcals.
W. b. S. T.ight winds, and cloudy.
W. to S. W. b. S. Ditto, ditto.
W. toW. b. N. Squally, with rain. ' Well. Frefl) breezes, and cloudy, with rain.
Variable. Strong gales, and fqually.
Well. Ditto, ditto.
Ditto. Fielli breezes, and clear.
Ditto. Ditto, ditto.
VV. N. W. Frelh gales, and hazy.
N.W. Strong gales, and hazy,
VV^elh Heavy gales, and fqually.
N. VV. Strong gales, and cloudy.
Ditto. IVelh breezes, and clear.
N. N. \V. Squally, and clou-ly.
VV. N.W. Ditto, with hail.
WeiK Squally, with rain. { W . N . VV . Freih gales , and haz)' , with ^ rain. • Weft. Frcfh and clear.
'I .
APPENDIX. No. II.
--*■■*■• '■" - --r ''"* "ti -■
TABLE II. Continued. Route of the KIn,5 George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland's
liiands to the Sandwich Iflands.
Latitude Ijonsitudi.
1
South.
W'^eft.
Variations Jialt.
3
Winds, Weather, and Remarks,
1-86.
March 6^ Noon. )
45 09
7|44 13
844 44
043 24
'43 10
242 26
343 07
4.43 46
542 04
^40 35
7p9 36
«37 5^^
9
20
36 5'
Si 31 52 W. S. W. Light hrcczes, and hazy.
Si 40 53 Ditto. Ditto, ditto.
Oj .» f^i^^^-^-^^- Frcfh breezes, and cloud}'.
^'■^1 ^^H A (\vell from the N. W.
82 56I I 56 W. S.W. Ilardfqualls. .
8237} \ S3 W.N, W. Frcfh brccxcs, and cloiidv.
u, „,l ,„ SW^S.^^■■. Moderate anvl cloudy, widi
^3 "^4 '^ J ") ^■ \ . ■ ^
, \ - ' ( hohtnmir,
53 Mj <;6-V ! Variable. Mazy, with r.iin.
54 5'! I 5S' !n.N. W. Dit'to, ditto. ''443,13 5°; 57 i Variable. Fo^^^gy, with ni'n.
5S iDiito. A fVcfh gale, and hazy.
,^S. S. W. Ditto, ditto. x\ iWell from ^ U the S.W.
57 I Well. Frelh breezes, and eloudv. ^^ S Variable. Ditto, ditto. A lieavv I'ucll } from the S. W.
, \ S. S. W. to S. S. E. Light breezes, and ^'^^l eloudv.
85 lO S6 07
«7 '5
88 30
88 44
36 34I 89 00
2 1. 36 121 89 01
2235 io| 89 35
2334 08, 90 52
2433 -.
9 '7
^ S. S. W. Ditto, ditto, and fine wea ;; fber.
W. S. W. Light winds, and iloudv.
W. b. S. Moderate, ditto, ditto.
91 30
25^32 27 92 40
2613 1 4SI 94 10
-73^ 4^^] 95 3S
2820 ■nil (}-j 3<
61 : 62
64! S. b. W. Ditfo, ditto. ^-,' \S. 8. W. to 8. S. E. Moden-.te and ■^ I eloudv, V, irh rain.
Kalt. Liidit winds, and eloub,'. Sav;
ivr.
r i'.alt. Light wuids, and eloub,-. Sav; 6- i a fail to tlie N. Vv'. but did not fpjak
\i. S. E. Moderate and clear.
S. K. to Iv.il. A line iMecze, ap.d clear.
\\:\(\. Vri'\\\ breeze=^, and cloudy. 1
E)'
\ p r V. K D I X. No. n.
-ii I
1 : '^i'
'j|;.,
T A P) L E II. Continued. Rniitc (^f t)ic King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland's
Iflands to the Sandwich Iflands.
Tiinr.
I ntifuflr
1 iinn'tiii.U-IVai-istions
' No-- ^ ^^
April'
2 21
:;i2o
4'iQ
() 1 7
7ji7
1 1 I 3
12 12 13
02
\\r,h
Ea(l.
3911 00 0 2
oS|ioo -ji
104 4S
2SJI0 2
10
s
7
i6| 5
I
I 2 1 900
<^7
47 59 C3
'4
22
44 <^i
>7 00
10^ 00
1 06 T, I
I o-j 09
107 23
108 00
loS 43 109 30
I 10 CO
111 M
112 09
112 54
113 40
114 45
115 3S r 16 10 [ 16 00
2c; I 19116 24 21' 2 35 1 16 30 5 22; 3 37116 40,
"."' 4
;4ii
n ''
44
4 27
/:»
/:>
79^
00
[ E. N. E. Frcfli breezes, and dear.
Eaft. Frcfli breezes, and cloudy.
Ditto. Plcafant weatber.
E. b. S. Frelh breezes, and cloudy.
E N. E. Ditto, ditto, rain.
Ditto. Pleafant weather.
N. E. Ditto, ditto.
E. b. N. Frefli breezes, and clear.
N. N. E. Ditto, and cloudy.
Ditto. Light winds, and clear.
N. E. Ditto. Saw dolphins and birds.
Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy. A
fwell from the S. W. ^
N. E. Light winds, and clear. Variable. Ditto. Saw birds and fliarks. E. S. E. Freih breezes, and clear. E. b. N. Ditto, ditto. S. E. Frelh breezes, and cloudy. Variable, Ditto, and clear. , E. N. E. Frelh breezes. Saw fifli and ' birds.
Fall. Ditto. Saw feveral turtle. S. E. Sc|ually, with rain. j Variable. Cloudy. Saw Tome turtle.
i Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy. Saw
) Icvcral Iharks round the Ihip.
j S. S. Iv Light winds and dear.
1) Ditto. Ditto, and clouily. CJrcat quan-
l titics of birds round the Ihip.
1 Variable. Squally, with rain.
'm^
APPENDIX. No. ir.
V9
TABLE II. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland's
Iflands to the Sandwich Iflands.
Time.
17P6.
April 24,
Noon. "
Latitude j Longitude I Variations North. \Vclh Eaft.
25 26
5 6
aS: 7
s. A
29
May 1
2
«3
7 8
8
9
10
IKl
4jI2
5!' 3 614
7' '5
8'i7
9; I 8
1019
11119
1220
i\v
m-
14,20
15i20
i6|i9
33,117 50
oS 118 22 301 17 40
27 7 00
20 43 20
117 30
118 19
1 19 09
120 20
53(21 40
44; 1 22 42
45'i24 08 12,125 32 i4>26 S3 25127 47
50^128 45
04129 57
15 130 44
30131 40
55133 oH 03 '34 37
1320 09136 17
09138 04 08 140 01 59 '42 10
s 15
5 50
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
78^^ 5 Variable. Frcfli breezes, and hazy.
79 I S. W. to Weft. Lioht wind, and rain 78L I Weft to N. W. Ortto, and cloudy.
80 i^' ^' ^' Lig'^^ winds, with lightning ( and rain.
8 1 1 1 Variable. Ditto, with lightning. 80^ I N. E. Moderate breezes, and cloudy. ' N. N. E. Squally, with rain. Saw dolphins and birds roimd the Ihip. N. E. A fine breeze, and clear. N. N. E. Ditto weather. Saw fcvcral
turtle. N. E. b. N. Frcfh breezes, and cloudy Ditto. Ditto weather. N. E. b. N. Moderate, and clear. I Ditto. Squally, with rain. ^N.E. Ditto, and cloudy. Saw fome ( turtle. Ditto. Frefti breezes, and iqually. N. E. b. E, Frefh weather. N. E, b. N. A frcfh gale, and rain. N. E. Frcfta breezes and cloudy. Ditto. Ditto, and clear. Eaft. A fine breeze and cloudv. Ab yet we (aw nothing of Eos, Mnjos, or any other of the iflands as laid down m this latitude and longitude by the Spaniards.
81
79
80
79
77
77t 81
72
7'i
72 70
7'i
no
71 <
Eaft. Frcfh breezes, and cloudy 71] j Ditto. Squally, with rain. 72 I E. b. N. Ditto, ditto.
11
Vi
10
APPENDIX. No. IL
UK i> ■■
TABLE II. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland's
Iflands to the Sandwich Iflands.
Time.
1-86.
May 17)
Noon.
18,19
2020
2l|l9
2219
02
144. 02
57;i45 52 57,146 44
o5'i48 02
44,149 30 18 151 40'
2319 ^°i'53 »5
2419 261154 16
2518 56 26
Latitude ILoneitudc Variations ?- South. ' VVcft. tail.
73
74i >■ ^ I
74
75 74 75
76I
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
E. N. E, A fine breeze, and clear.
E. b. N. Moderate, and cloudy. Ditto. Light breezes, and clear. Eaft. Moderate, and ditto. E. N. E, Light breezes, with rain. Ditto. Moderate, and cloudy. E. N. E. Frefli breezes, with rain. E. b. N. Ditto, and hazy. At noon the N. E. point of Owhyhee, bear' | . N. ^ W. three, or four leagues. iE. N. E. Moderate, and cloudy. Southi 74 ^ point of Owhyhee E. b. S. nine miles. nc Variable, and h"ht. Clofe in Ihore.
77
W. S.W. Light breezes, and^cloudy. At one P. M. came to anchor in Ka . rakakoou Bay, Owhyhee.
:'i
i ;,
APPENDIX. No. IT,
U
TABLE III.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte whilft at the ' Sandwich Iflands.
May 29,) i Noon. )
Time.
1-S6,
latitude North.
3020 45
3' June I
/
21 14
21 16
21 15
21 33
2' 45
^,21 51
Longitude Wert.
156 06 156 41
'57 45
160 15
Variatiorif Eaft.
8 00
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
80 78
781- 1 79i| 78 )
77 '
79
78 I
Variable. Light breezes, and cloudy.
Karakakooa Bay N. E. b. E. From S. W. to N. E. Light winds.
The bluff head on Riinai N. b. W.
diflant three miles. Variable. Light breezes, and cloudy.
Th« S. E. part of Woahoo W. S. W. E. N. E. Frefh breezes, and clear.
At anchor in Woahoo. Eaft. Ditto, ditto. South point of
Woahoo Eaft fix leagues. Ditto. Frefli breezes, and cloudy.
South end of Woahoo W, N. W. nine
or ten leagues. E. N. E. Light winds, and cloudy.
South point of Onechow E. b. N.
i North. E. S. E. Frefh breezes, and clear. At
anchor in Yam Bay, Oneehow.
. — ^ ■ ., .... - — ....-»-.
J3 %
! 1
lii*'.
'i I
11
APPENDIX. No. II.
TABLE IV.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Sandwich
Iflands to Cook's River.
rr i Latiuidc il.ongitiKic! Variations
rime. ; j^-^„;,_^ I \^^,,|. I Kan.
i->6.
ane 14, /i Noon. Sr^'
1.V24 1625 i7'26 i8;27 19^28 2030 21 31 2 2' 3 2
29
160 021
2333 2434 2i35
2636
27I38 2838
29'39
I 3040
July 141
242
344 ci 152 04
02 150 1 c
4 45
.^45 27149 2
645 59 14S 06
Winds, Weadicr, and Remarks.
10160 45 10 09
10
27'i6o 57! 32'i6i 22 49|i6i 07 53;i6i GO; 06:160 41I15 04160 10 o2|i59 41
34'i^ 5° 21J158 35
s(>\^si 32
57/56 3^5 14155 34
49 '54 13; 31 '53 05;
37'53 37|
:; I I 52 06 17 20
i 48 I 52 c6
78 •
77 -61
77
76I
76
79 76 77
78
7M 69
63 62^
57
571
57 56 V
59
56
50
' t-'
E. N. E. Light breezes, and cloudy The liigh land on die South part of Oncchovv bore S. E. E. N E. Frelh breezes, and cloudy. Ditto. Moderate breezes, and clear. Ditto. Ditto, with rain. E. b. N. Moderate breezes, and cloudy. Eaft. Ditto, ditto, with rain. E. b. N. Moderate breezes, and clear. Variable. Ditto, ditto weather. S. S. E. Moderate breezes, with rain. S. S. W. Frefli breezes, and fqually.
A heavy Ivvell from the Wellward. Variable, Squally, with rain. ,Weft. Strong gales and Iqually, with ' rain. W. N. \V. Ditto, ditto. A heavy
iuell from W. N. W. Weft, Frelh breezes, and hazy. N. W. Ditto, ditto. A heavy N. W.
fvvell. Ditto. F'rcfli breezes, and ditto. W. N. W, A frelh gale, and thick
weatlu'r. Ditto. Ditto. S, W. Frelh hrcc/cs, and foggy.
a leal, and a log of wood. South to \V. b, S. A frelh gile,
rain, N, W. F^refli gales, and hazy. Ditto. Ditto, and foggy. N, W. Sijually, with raivK
Saw
with
m
APPENDIX. No. If.
'5
TABLE IV. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Sandwich
Iflands to Cook's River.
TirPC I ''^'^'''"'^'^ Longitude North. I Well.
1786. u
Noon. §46 14147 27
^47 3V47 S3
949 3«,i4« SSi
Variations Eart.
Winds, Weather, and Rcniirks.
V N. W. to S. b. W. Light winds-, and •^ ^ hazy. 54 I Variable. Frefli gales, and hazy. 48^ j Ditto. Ditto, and foggy
S3 > 1,149 3S
1254 21 148 26
'354 55148 34
H55 52148 00
1557 04149 22
1 6 58 34
151 04
1758 45/52 06 ■ ifS^S 39'i52 10
19
1051 24149 3519 3o| 47 5^'pV^^',^" ^^•■^^^^'•^•e^cs. and hazy.
' ^' ^ railed a log of wood.
rS. S. W. A frclh gale, and foggy. 46 • Pafled feveral pieces of wood, and . fomc rock-weed.
AeA^^' ^' ^^" ^^^■'^"ff breezes. Saw fe- ^ 2 ( veral flocks of birds.
5 N. W. to Weft. Ditto. Paired a log "^7 I of wood. ^
^W. S. W. A light breeze, and thick ■^ ( %• 474 !.S. W. Moderate, and foggy
48
47
lock faw the land, bearing N. W. b. W. fevcn or eight leagues
I Ditto. Frelh breezes, and foggy. At J fevcn o'cj ' " N. W. • diftant. Variable. Frcfli breezes, and fo^-gy. ^^ S Ditto. Fivdi breezes and hazy,\'vith ^ ( rain. Th.c barren iflands N. W.
r Variable. JMclh breezes, with rain. 1-7 i A r anchor otF Coal Harbour in Cook's I River.
N. B. Mean of dv. T'hcrniomcter in Cook's River 5S}d:g.
i
m
1 1
'4
APPENDIX. No. rr.
T A B L £ V.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River aloncc the Coail, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands.
Time.
ITbO.
[Aug- 13 Noon.
Latitude North.
Longitude Variations Weil. EA\.
3-
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
58 59
U:59
I
»i59 J659
06 23
I CO I I
149 5924 30
27149 19
J7i9 4^
148 30
1S59 42148 24
19
S9
2059
12
go;
^i 2 1 159 10' 1 48 24
:2;59 15,14^ o<^
\ 23I58 57
2459 47 2^59 12
148 00
148 20
'47
26 58 26J146 39
•27c; 9 00:4-% 43
28
'Variable. Light airs. The Sugar Loaf on one of the barren iflands bearing
57 J S. W. diflant thiec leagues. Cape Elizabeth W. ^ N. fcven or eight miles.
W.S.W.toW.b. N. Moderate breezes,
^'^ ( and thick weather.
58 1 Variable. Thick, hazy weather.
fN. W.b. N. to W. S. W. Light winds, 57I] and hazy. Sounded in 52 fathoms. I Small flones and fliells. Variable. Light winds. Saw the laml 54 .{ N. b. E. J- E. diilant three or four miles. S. S. W. Light winds, and hazy. At 53^ < anchor off the S. W. end of Montague I Iflc in 43 fathoms. I Variable. Light winds. At half pafl J fix weighed and made fail, the land ^9 ^ N. E. b. N. diH^uit feven or eight
1^ miles. 57. V I Eall: to N. E, Squally, with rain.
/^N. E. bVelh breezes, and thick rainy ^^ } weather.
^^[ j Ditto. Ditto, fqually, and a heavy fci. "j. Ditto. Strong gales and cloudy, \\ith ( rain.
Moderate. Saw Montague llland
S3
W. 4 W. rive or iis. leagues. <;3 j Variable. 'Light breezes, and foggy. \\\ I E. N. E. Light winds, and cloudy.
TO
<7'
Variable. Moderate, and cloudy.
A P r E N D r X. No. II.
^s
TABLE V. Continued.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River
along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands.
Time.
1786.
Aug.28, Noon. '
Sept.
29 31
Latitude Longitude Soutlu VVeih
58
58 58
1 1
1-2 13
»457
'5i57 1656
'755
I
Variationi Eaft.
59 09145 17
13
28 27
54 49
5S 23
4 |
5« |
32, |
5 |
58 |
15 |
6 |
58 |
26, |
7 |
58 |
05I |
8 |
57 |
35 |
9 |
57 |
53 |
10 |
57 |
42 |
5<^ 4^1 56 50 56 50,
06;
5^ '5
46'
45 47
44
43 42
42
49 10
40 44
39 08
39
38 38
37 37
38
37 37
36 36'
03
44
36
4824
12
00
42 07
39
41
36 oa
3^^ 36 36
33
23 10
M 53
00
58
55
54
S3-Z
54
53
53l
53i
54
S3i
S3
S3
54
54 524
53t
52
52^
58 51
50 [
5'
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
i
N. E. Frcfli breezes, and fqually. Saw the land bearing W. | N. diftant 1 1 or 12 miles. ( E. N. E. Fredi breezes, and hazy. A I heavy head fca.
Variable. Frefli breezes, with rain.
Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy.
S. E. Freih breezes, and cloudy. ^Variable. Frefla brgezcs and fqually, ( with rain.
{ North to S. W. b. S. Ditto, ditto. A ( heavy fwoll from the Eaflward.
Variable. Moderate, and cloudy.
Ditto, ditto, with rain.
E. b. S. Light winds, and rain.
Variable, Frefh gales, and fqually.
Ditto. Ditto, ditto.
S. b. W. Frcfli breezes, and hazy. Saw the land, bearing N. N. E.
Variable. Strong gales, and fqually.
Ditto. Heavy gales, and thick weather. ,E. N. E. A'frefhgale. Saw the land ' N. E. b. E.
South. Strong gales, and rain.
Ditto. Freih breezes, and cloudy. Capo Edgecombe N. 60 deg, E. djllant 1 1 , or iz miles.
Variable. A heavy gale, and hv/.v.
Ditto. Frclli breezes, and liaz)'.
W. S. W. Ditto, ditto, and cloudy.
N. W. Freih breezes, and clear. Saw the land. .;
i6
APPENDIX. No. II.
m^'
TABLE V. Continued.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands.
Time.
latitude 'Longitude
Norili.
g Weft.
Variations Eaft.
i7:-6.
Sept. I Q, ) >•
Noon. S I
20:51 6,131 2S
1250 03128 30
23j49 5^ ^27 52
2449 ^^
25'49 34
I
2:6'49 29
18
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
oa.
2749
2S
29149
30rt7
{47
20
^5
53
'^7 35 12S 30 129 44
L
20 CO
55 j N. W. Frcfli brec2^cs, and hazy.
59 I Ditto. , Frcfh breezes and cloudy.
iSN.W. Liglit winds, and clear. Saw ^''' I two Iflands, bearing N. 53 deg. E.
, {is. N. W. Moderate breezes, and ■5 ( cloudy. The land in light.
, (N. W. Frefli breezes, and hazy. 5^ I Woody Point N. 69 deg. W.
('Variable. Squally, witli rain. King George's Sound bearing N. E. three or four leagues, r Variable. Light airs, and cloudy. North point of the Sound North, 63 dcg. luilt, diftant nine or ten miles. Variable. Heavy gales, with thunder, lightning, and rain. Saw the hnl from N."^VV. to Eafl. j Variable. Squally, with heavy fliowers j of hail and rain. Extremes of the "" land from W. N. W. to E. b. S. A heavy fwcll from S. S. W. Variable. Squally, with rain ami hail. The point of the Sound North, 65 Eaft, diflant feven or eight miles. W. N. W. Frefh breezes, and fine wea- ther. The entrance of the Sound N. ^ 40 dcg. E. 1 1 leagues. , S South. Light airs. A heavy fwell from ''^( N.W.
,^S. W. Frefh breezes, and hazy. A ^ ( heavy head fea. ________
57
62
^1
APPENDIX. No. 11.
TABLE V. Continued.
Route of the i:ing George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River
along the Coafl:, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands.
Time.
Latitude North.
i7b6. Od. 2, I
Noon, ^ 3
46
45 444
43
43 42
41
40
39
3«
37 ;6
535
35
34
9'34
2034
«'!34
22'34
2333
'-^4 33
-5 33 26 ^^2
50 41
56
L( ngitiidc V,-iriations | tr Wdh Eaft. g
44 06
07
oS 34
5«
33 26
43
02
32
57 04
54 40:
28;
I
^•\
»3!
GO
42:
00'
30 10
30 02 30 46
30 52
31 59 3' 22,
31 06
3' 14
31 22
31 oo|
34 47|
33 52
33 20 33 45'
35 '4
36 06
^6 51
3« 25 41 00
41 06
42 1 2
43 02
43 3^'
39 '43 50
S6i
59 61
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
31 04 if^ 27 59
57
5^
56
59 59i
64" 63
(>7
69
68 67 68
72 7'i
S. S. W. Moderate breezes, and clear.
S. W. Frelli breezes, and cloudy.
N. W. Moderate breezes, with rain and fog.
North to S. S.W. Light winds, and clou- dy. A heavy fwell from the Weft ward.
South. Frefli breezes, with rain.
Variable. Strong breezes, and fo^gy.
S.W.b.S. Squally, withlightning5: rain.
S. S. W. Ditto, with rain. A heavy fwell from the Welhvard.
Ditto. Frelh gales, and fqually.
Variable. Frelh breezes, and cloudy.
S. S. W. A frcdi gale, with rain.
W. N. W. Ditto, ditto. A fwell from W. S. W.
W. N. W. Frefli breezes. Several iharks round the ihip.
S. S. E. Litiht winds.
South. Moderate breezes, and cloudy.
Variable. Light w inds, and rain.
North. Moderate and hazy, with rain.
Variable. bVelh breezes, and clear.
S. b. 1^. Ditto, liitto, and cloudv.
South. Frelh breezes, and fqually.
Ditto. Ditto, ditto.
S.S.E. Frelh breezesandcloudy, with rain.
S. E. Moderate and hazv.
S. S. I']. A fine breeze, and cloudy,
M ith rain. Ditto. Ditto, ditto.
c
ii--
i'i !
iS
APPENDIX. No. ir.
P:
rii
Sil '
(it
TABLE V. Continued.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River
along the Coail, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands.
Time,
I Latitude North.
l.oiijiitude j Variations
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
^Nii'^l^^ -'^^"■' ^'
Nov
\
2931
3029
.>! 29
I 28
2,27
o<;'ii46 04.
4S', ! 46 06
o5ji47 59 1714S 42
1S149 03
3^26 06 149 ciS
4|24 56
150 00
5I24 32150 27
6'24 03J150 35i
7i2.^ 15 '5' i8|
8 23 01 151 13!
<>22 54
151 -4
10
.^5:' 5' ^o
1122 05 151 10
12
21 30152 04 1320 36151 50 1420 06152 39
16
20 07 153 20
9 2
74 72
72t
7' 73
r- --.1
. CS. S. E. Frefli breezes, and line wea V^ ther.
S. E. Moderate and cloudy.
E. S. E. A fine breeze, and cloudy.
S. E. Frcfli breezes, with lightning.
Ditto. Ditto, and Iqually.
Eart. Moderate and cloudy, with rain.
E. b. S. Frelh breezes, and cloudy.
Eaft. Ditto, ditto.
E. b. N. Frcih breezes, and plealant ' '^ l weather.
73 I E. S. E. Light winds, and cloudy. 71 i ' Variable. Frefli breezes, and rain. 70J ! S. E. Moderate and cloudy. 72^ I South. Ligiit airs, and rain.
^Variable. Strong gales, and fqually. ' ) Caught feme dolphins. ^(, Ditto. Heavy fqualls, with lightning, */ -^ and rain.
^ Variable. Frefli gales, and fqually, with /^ ^ rain.
(Ditto. Moderate breezes. A i\vell "7 ^ from the S. E.
( N. N. E. Ditto, ditto, with fine wea- 75 j ther.
Ea(L Moderate breezes. Caught a
large ihark. E. N. E. I'ight winds, and clear. At
79 <. five in the afternoon, faw land W S. W. 12 or 1 3 leagues.
80 E. S. E. Moderate. Clofe in (hore
tdi:
APPENDIX. No. ir.
^
TABLE V.
Contiiuicd.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cooks River along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands.
Time.
Latituik- North.
Longitude , Variations' ^ Well. K.ilh
17:56. I '^
Nov. 1 7, )
X. ' [ 20 I
Noon. V
4 1 8 20 oS
19
20
20 52
21,21 10 21i2I 12 2321 30
24 25
21 3? 21 2S
2621 25
21 32
28,21 21
Winds, Weather, and Remarks,
91
80
84
^ Variabh ( miles
1
Light airs. Off lliore three
Mowee
Light airs.
Ic les. S. E. to S. W. bore North. [ Variable. Strong gales, and cloudy. The S.W. end of Owhyhee, S. b. W. Lightning, thunder, and rain, f From W. S. W. to N. W. Frcfh 75 '( breezes, and Iqually. Lightning all t round. W. S. W. Strong breezes, and fqu-ally. The extremes of Mowee from S. 15 L deg. E. to S. 60 deg. W. Variable. Squally rainy weather. Weft:
End of Mowee S. 65 deg. W. E. N. E. Light winds, and cloudy. South end of Morotoi S. 8 deg. E. 5 or 6 leagues. ^ S. S. W. Frefli breezes, and cloudy. ^ Tl " " ' ^"
80
78
79
The Eaft end of Mowee S. 25 deg. E, ariable. Light winds, and clear ~ end of Mowee S. E. 5 leagues
The
rS. S. W. Moderate and hazy. 79 J Eaft end of Mowee S. 2o deg. E. 8 [ or 10 leagues.
rS, W. Squally, with lightning and 78 r\ rain. The S. E. end of Morotoi [ S. 24 deg. W. Variable. Moderate breezes, and fine 77 <^ wcatlier. The bluff" head on Mo- rotoi S. W. by. W. 13 or 14 miles.
C z
lit'-
m ;
r I
1.'
ao
APPENDIX. No. II.
TABLE V. Continued.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River
along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands.
,^. Latitude Longitude
1 ime. i^^orth. ^^el^.
I7b6.
Noon.
7,621 20
Varation KalL
H
Winds, Weather, and Remarks,
Eaft. Light winds, and cloudy. The -79 ^ Eaft end of VVahoo W. S. W. 9 or 10 leagues, r Variable. The Weft end of Morotoi ng-J S. 4 5 deg. E. At five this after- noon came to anchor at Wab.oo.
N.B. From this to the 1 5th of March, 1787, the mean of the Thermome- ter, 75 deg.
wpw
APPENDIX. No. ir.
ai
TABLE VI.
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Sandwich Iflands to Prince William's Sound.
Time.
17S7.
Mar. 15 Noon.
Latitude- Nortli.
16
'7 18
^9
20
21
2 ""
24
25 26
Longitude Variations Well. Kalt.
21 29 J59 00
23 24
26
27 28 28 29
-9
31 3.1 34
40 158 26 25158 n
06158 18
24;i58 17 461158 22
59|»58 53 101158 27
26 1 :9 -58
17/59 20 1 7 1 60 17
59159 30
2736
28137 2938
3<^'39
3J139 A.pril 140
242
I
3'44 4V)
: 5'46
647
o2ii <;9 01.
18:158 48
37 3-
.56 58
i'54 52
I 23 '54 25
^-^53 5^1 21/5^ 34i
04'! 5 1 591 05 1 5 1 10'
50150 20 18
2.v'49 57'
3^
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
fE. S. E. Moderate breezes, and plea- fant weather. Extremes of Atoui ,. from N. toN. 35 deg. W. 77 j S.S.E. Freih breezes, and fine weather, ^^i South to W. N, W. Frelh gales and '^■^l cloudy, with rain.
c. Heavy gales and fqually, rain.
75
\ Variable ( witli
S. S. W. Frefli breezes, and fqually. S. W. Moderate and cloudy, with rain. N. N. E. Light winds, and cloudy. N. b. W. Ditto, ditto. N. E, Light winds, and pleafant weather. E. N. E. Strong gales and I'qually,
with fogs. South. Ditto, ditto.
Frelh breezes, and thick ha- ithcr. S. S. W. Ditto, ditto. Ditto. Frefh breezes, and fine weather. S. S. W. Ditto, ditto, ditto. \'ariable. Strong gales, am! fqually. \N. W. Ditto, ditto. Saw a leal, and
ibme birds.
70 69
Vi 684
67*
6ii
6. 5s. b. W. ^ ( zy we;i
59 64
65^ 52
45
48} [ S. S, E. Strong gnles, and cloudy. 54 ! South. Freih g,ilc\s;'.iK'. iqu-.il!y, u ith rain. ,^S.S. W. Strong gaies, wLh r.iiu and 5 - ^ thick weather.
rrcl]) brcL;''L's, andtiouJv.
10
55^'S. S. W. I_
, \ X'ariable. Fielh oale- and JLiudiy, wirli ^'^l hail. 48 j Variable. A licavvgak , and tiiickw cathcr,
> !
it 1
APPENDIX. No. n.
TABLE VI. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Sandwich • Iflands to Prince William's Sound.
Tinic,
April 7, Nuon. '
Latitikle Longitude Aginations' North. \Vdh I Eart. ;
H
47 2 "4^ 39! 47 3«'47 23
4^
1050
I
1 252
1 3'54 H55 15.57 165S
;8
'7 18
19
ao 1
59
5 7
5« 59 59 59
22 23
2459
Winds, Weather, ami Remarks,
^ N. N.E. Moderate and hazy, with hail. 39 I Saw gulls, divers, and other birds.
35/47 -°
02147 08
23147 '6 46 1 46 00
02147 °° 37146 34' 1 9 34 15146 281
09 1 46 36 1 9 00
oS 146 27 03146 50
41146 14
4314S 06 03 1 48 42 oi!i49 061
o9'H7 55i 47' 1 48 40
37 1
, ^PVom S. 1 42^ ( 7.y, wi
41
Frelli breezes and cloudy, with Frefli breezes and ha-
N.W fnow.
toN y, with rain. ,^S. S. W. Stron*^ breezes, and thick '^ I wer
eather.
40i 37 4^ 35 1 33
Variable. Thick, foggy weather.
Ditto. Frclh breezes, and fine weather.
Variable, P'relli breezes, with fnow.
Wefl. Frefli breezes, and fine weather.
W. S. W. Ditto, ditto, and cloudy.
N. N. W. Strong gales and fqually, ^•5 ( with fnow.
32-V I N. b. W. Frefli breezes, and fqually. 36' 1 ^'ariablc. Frefli gales, and fnow.
, i From South to Weft. A heavy gale, 352 ^ with fnow.
39
35
34 35^
36i
Variable. Frefli breezes, with fnow. Eafl. Strong gales, with fnow. E. N. K, Squally, with fnow-. Variable. Ditto, 'ditto. Ditto. Frefli breezes, and hazy. Saw the land from N. b. VV. to W, b. N. S. W. At anchor in Prmce William>
(b. VV. At ancnor m irmce vv iiii.mi ■ 3" I Sound from this to the 15th of May
N. B. Mean of the Thermometer 54 degrees.
APPENDIX. No. 11.
*3
TABLE VII.
Route of the Queen Charlotte (after parting Company) from Prince William's Sound to Port Mulgravc.
Time.
Latitude Longitude Nurth. I \Vell,
:8-.
Noon. {S9 48
1659 28 145 20
I
n's^ 52145 54
1S159 09144 <^^
i9'59 34' 43 3^
20|59 09' '43 34
2159 21 141 34
2259 22139 50
23 24
Variations Ka«.
3
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
29 38
TFirft part variable, latter S. W. Light j^J winds, and clear. Cape Hinchinbrook "^•^^ j N. 65 deg. W. Great numbers of 1^ whales in fight.
(S.S. W. Light winds. Kaye's Ifland ^-^ j N. b. E. 50 fathoms water.
' Variable. Moderate, and cloudy. Se- veral whales in fight. Eaft to S. E. Ditto, and hazy. E. N. E. Light winds, and hazy. (Ditto. Frefh breezes and cloudy, with rain
47
41 41
42
I
43
(Variable. Freih breezes, and hazv wca-
l ther.
( W. S. W. Light winds. Land from "^^ I N. N.W. toE. b. N. |N.
( Eail. Light and variable. Warping the "^-^ ^ fliip into the harbour. 42 Eail. At anchor in Port Mulgravc.
N. B. From this to the 4th of June, the mean of the Thermometer 46 degrees.
f
iiii i
«4
APPENDIX. No. 11.
TABLE Vlll.
Route of the Queen Charlotte from Port Mulgravc to
Norfolk. Sound.
Time.
17S7.
June 4,] Noon. J
Latitude 'Longitude N'ariatioiib North. Weil. | KalL
n 3
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
46
659 13 140 40;
-7158 05 141 06
SJ57 59''4i 25
9157 "9 '42 '2
10156 49 140 ^ '
S. E. Moderate and cloudy. 'I he
North noMitot" Port Mulgrave Nortli,
1 85 deg. Wert. Off Ihore five or lix
L miles. . r 1 r •
Variable. Light wmds. Land from; E. N. E. to W. b. N. Off (hore '^-^ ^ four or five leagues. Numbers ot
^ uhales round the ihip.
(E N. E. Light winds, and cloudy. '^V I 'Land from North to W. N. W.
^Eaft to E. N. E. Frefh breezes, and ^'^ I hazy, with rain. 42 I Eaft to S. E. Light airs, and hazy. 45 Ealt. Moderate and hazy, with ram. 44 I Variable. Frefli breezes, and hazy
11
12
57 ^3136 26127 59 57 03 '35 36
1
45
fN.W. to Weft. Ditto, and cloudy. I At two o'clock this afternoon fau i. Cape E,dgccombe. ^W. N.W. Moderate and hazy. At '^9 I anchor in Norfolk Sound.
N. B. Mean of the Thermometer, w hilfl in this Sound, 48 deg.
APPKND [ X. No. if.
2i
TABLE IX.
Route of the Qnccn Charlotte from Norfolk Sound along the Coad, anJ thence to the Sandwich Iflands.
Time. |
Latitude North. |
1787- |
u ' |
Noun. ^ |
56 48 |
24 |
56 35 |
25 |
|
26 |
56 30 |
27 |
55 52 |
28 |
|
2cy |
;? iS. |
Longitude \Vdt.
Variations Kaft.
135 35
00
3055
J^'y i'54
254
3'54 454
U5
134 3°
^2134 23
221 '?4 00
14 I 33 12
14,133
5 53 4«
50
49
"■ ■<
;4 28
N. W. FrcCn breezes, and cloudy wea- ther; Cape Edgecombe N. ij dcg. Weft ; the ncareft Ihore three or four miles off. At lix o'clock this a*"ter- noon came to anchor in Port Banks. VV. N. W. Frelh breezes, and cloudy. At anchor.
50 i S. S. W. Ditto weather. At anchor, f \'ariable. Light winds, and foggy at 50^ 1 times. The entrance of Port 13anks t N. E. dirtant five or ilx leagues. S W. N. W. Frelh breezes, and cloudy. ( Hazy IlIandsN.^ E. S \'ariable. Squally, and foggy. Off ( Ihore four or five miles. Ditto. Frelli breezes, and thick hazy weather. ^ South to S. \V, Light winds. The ap- l pcarance of an inlet N. 58 deg. E. W. to W. S. W. Frelli breezes, and clear weather. A deep bay Eaft, and land to the Eaftward in the ilime at 1 5 or 20 leatrues diltance. I Variable. Frelh breezes. A number of J canoes alongfide. I Variable. Light winds. C'lofe in fliore. (Ditto. Ditto. Ditto, trading with the -^*' ( Indians.
[N. W. to W. S. W.^ Light winds, and 50,' 'I rain. Diftance off Ihore three or four I miles.
D
49
47 47 50
50
5*
49}
s6
APPENDIX. No. tl.
TABLE IX. Continued. Route of the Queen Charlotte from Norfolk Sound along the Coaft,
and thence to the Sandwich Iflands.
Time.
1787- July 6, Noon
Latitude Lonsritude Variations North. Vkclh I Eaft.
^1
;53 34
C2
9S^ 54,132
1052 4SI
133 31! 753 28133 19
%3
:S-
1152 5 -'132 20
1252 0.V131 i^
»-3i2 1
I 1451 4^131 12
'55 J
1652
47
02'
1S51
J9'5i
2052
2 r s 1
I 2252
I 2352
4^>.i3^
57
54:: 10!
'3'
3 ' I
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
,iW, N. W. Moderate breezes, and 5-^ I cloudy. The natives alonglide trading. 5 li I N. W. Frefli breezes, and cloudy. "^ ' N. W. Frelh breezes, and cloudy. Some canoes alongiide. ^,^N. W. Frelh breezes. Off (liorc three •^"^ ^ or tour miles.
iN. W. Ditto, and hazy. Saw iome ^^ I whales. Off Ihore i o or i i miles.
, \ W. N. W. Frelh breezes. Off" Ihore ^^'^i two or fhrec miles. 52^ I W. N. W. A tVelh gale, and fqually.
" ( N. W. Moderate, and hazy. C~)ft' ihore 5^ ( two miles. Several canoes alonglide. , I W. N. W. Frelh breezes, and foggy. i^'^l Several canoes alongfidc. 54 IW. N.W. Frelh gales, and foggy. 53 jN.W. b.W. Ditto, and ditto, i" <^ Ditto. iMclh breezes, and foggy. Off I -''"^ I Ihore two niiles.
i ,\N.W. Ditto weather. Off ihore three \ ^ 'I or four miles.
^^N.W. Frelh gales, and foggy ^ ) Ihore three or four leagues.
^N. W. Frtlli g.iles, and fijually,
Se-
•^ ' j Ihore three leagues.
5-5 [Ditto. Ditto. A hea\y fea.
,(N. W. JMilh breezes, anJ ha/V. ^•■'- ^ vcral canoes aionglule.
^ N. W. Moderate, and h,i/y. OB' Ihorc •^ ' I three or fuiu' leagues.
i.*i<
APPENDIX. No. n,
57
TABLE IX. Continued.
Route of the Queen Charlotte from Norfolk Sound along the Coaft,
and thence to the Sandwich lllands.
Time.
Latitude iLoiT'ltuiic
North.
.-S7.
July 24,) Noon. \
J>'^^
Aug. I
Well.
Variation Eall.
2551 47 '-9 50
26
27.52 i8
2S
'9i3 00
0:52 ;o
52 ^
36
52 10129 4:
Winds, VV^cather, and Remarks.
52 53 55
58
^\
5^\<
57 54
5.?;
N. W. Moderate, and clear. Several canoes alonglide. < W. N. W. l^iglit breezes, and cloudy. ( Off lliore four or five miles. ^W. N.W. Light breezes, and hazy. } Off (liore tliree or four miles. [Variable. Liglu winds. Saw land to -A the Eafl. Several canoes alonglide. I Off iliore eight or ten miles. ( Variable. Light winds. In general we , J find the current letting to the South, -^ with pieces oi' wood, grafs, and weeds |_ floating part. Variable. Moderate, and clear. Saw land at four o'clock tliis afternoon, bearing N, N. W. at 1 9 or 20 leagues dilhmcc, which is the fame land lecn from the North end of thcfe iilands. S indings this day from 14 to 25 fa- thoms, land and fmall black Hones. Several canoes alonglide. S. W. I-ight winds, and hazy. Great quantities of liritt-wood and weeds floating pall tlic Ihip. Off ihore three or four leagues. Several canoes round the Ihip. S Variable. Light winds. Off lliore i 2 or I 13 miles.
[N. to N. W. Light winds, and hazy.
Vi Off ihore two or three leagues. Cape
St. James S. \ W.
I
D
28
APPENDIX. No. 11.
TABLE IX. Continued.
Route of the Queen Charlotte from Norfolk Sound along the Coaft,
and thence to the Sandwich Iflands.
Time.
I Latitude iLongitude Variations i North. Well. Eall
i-s
,°r 1
Aug. 2,1 Noon. S
35' SO
451 09129 10
649 48 I 28 06 749 39
849 35
9149 30128 10
10 1 1
47 50,' -9 29 45 55130 5^
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
57
55
^i
fog.
Variabks with hght winds and foggy weather. A heavy fwcll from the ^ Southward. Cape St. James S. S. W.; [^ three or four leagues. Variable. Light winds, and hazy. At II A.M. the rocks off Cape St. James W. b. S. four or five miles dift. South to S. W. Moderate, and cloudy. 55i ^ Saw land bearing S. 40 deg. E. Uv. S.W. Frefli breezes, with 5"^ ^ A heavy fwell from tiie Wcftvvard. 56:!: I N. N. W. Frcfli breezes, and foggy.
i Variable. Light airs. Woody Point 57 I North fix leagues.
[Ditto. Ditto. King George's Sound I N. 77 deg. E. diftant 14 or 15 miles. Spoke the Ihip Prince of Wales, Capt, Colinctt • and the Hoop Princcfs Roy- al, Capt. Duncan, from London, be- longing to our owners, all well. S. K. 1'Vclh breezes, and cloudy. VVc learned from the Ihip and iloop, who had left King George's Sound the day before, that Capt. Portlock was not tiicre, ami that no furs were to be met with ; fo at half pall nine A. M. we parted with them, they fleering for Qiieen Charlotte's lllands, And we home by way of China. N. \V. Frelh breezes, and cloudy. W. N. W. IMtto, and ple.ilant wea- ther.
65i<
60
S.
57 56
APPENDIX. No. II.
T A B L E IX. Contmucd.
Route of the Queen Charlotte from Norfolk Sound along the Coaft, and thence to the Sandwich Iflands.
Time.
r.atitude jLungitude North, j Well.
1787. I «
Aug. 12 > Noon. V'*"^
14:43
I
1 5 '42
1641
J >74o
18^38
'9 37 20,36
2i|34
22^3
'^3' 3^ 24;29
25127
2(i'z6
I
- / - +
2824
29 30
.■>'
Sept.
22 21
20
22
'3 43 33
2i20
30, 40
I 08
53
I 35,
07. 28
eg
39 35
31 1 2
5i
I
o4j
2\
2(\
44
54, 01
3' 59 3' 59 32 06
■12 16
Variations Eaft.
3-
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
31 00 3s 2^ |
10 |
10 |
33 '^ |
||
3^J 50 |
||
35 49 36 20 |
||
37 -° 38 28 |
||
39 27 |
||
40 cS |
9 |
18 |
41 08 |
||
4' 55 |
||
43 06 |
8 |
37 |
44 g6 |
6 |
06 |
45 <^9 46 13 |
||
47 3^' |
||
50 oj |
59 64
62J-
65
64i
65
66 6y
67I 69
69-L
68"
67i 68
7' 7'^
73 75i
75
74 i
N. W. Frefli breezes, and fine weather. A fvvell from the Weftward.
Variable. Moderate, and fine wea- ther.
Ditto. Ditto, and cloudy. A heavy fwell fiOTi the Wcfl.
Weft. Moderate, and cloudy.
V^iriable. Light winds, and hazy.
N. E. to North. Frclli breezes, and cloudy.
N, W. to North. Ditto, and fine wea- ther.
N. N. E. Moderate, and cloudy.
Ditto. Ditto, and ditto.
N. E. Frclh breezes, and cloudy.
N. E. Ditto, and ditto.
Ditto. Frelh breezes, with rain.
E. N. E. Ditto, ditto, and cloudy.
N. E. Frefli breezes, and cloudy. A fwLll from the N. E.
N. E. to E. N. E. Ditto, and ditto.
E. N. E. to Eail. Moderate breezes, and cloudy.
N. E. to Eaft. Moderate, with rain.
N. E. Moderate breezes, and fine weather,
N. E. to Eaft. Squally, with rain.
N. E. Moderate, and fine weather.
Ditto. Frelh breezes, and pleafant weithcr.
N. N. E. Squally, with rain at times.
1.1 1
30
APPENDIX. No. II.
TABLE IX. Continued.
Route of the Queen Charlotte from Norfolk Sound along the Coad,
and thence to the Sandwich Iflands.
Time.
17.S7.
Sept. 3,?
Noon. S
Latitmk- jLont^if.dcjVarintionsj 3- North, \Vo:l. I Hall. 3
Winds, Weather, and Remaiks.
19 55/5- ^9
419 56153 43 520 04154 411
, (E. b. N. Frcfli breezes, and fine wea- '5TJ tber.
76 I N. E. Moderate breezes, and cloudy. 75 V Variable. Ditto, and ditto.
N. B. At five, A. M. faw Owhy- hee. At noon, the Eall end S, i W. 10 or II leagues.
TABLE X.
Route of the Queen Charlotte while amongfl the Sandwich Iflands,
and from thence to China.
Time,
l.:uitnde North.
Longitiuk Variations Well. Kail.
Sept. 6,} Noon. ^.
20 17
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
20 13
L±
15
81
S2
80
rVariable. Squally, with rain at times. J At two P. M. ieveral canoes witb
] bogs and bread-fruit alonglide. Oft"
I lliore feven or eight mdes.
J Ealh Moderate, and cloudy. Standing
J off and on trading widi tbe natives.
\ EaH point of Owbyhee S. 50 dcg. E.
( Ditto. I' rclb breezes, and clear. Stand- ing olV and on. Soutb point ot Owbyhee South two or three nnlcs.
APPENDIX. No. 11.
3t
TABLE X. Continued. Route of the Queen Charlotte while amongft the Sandwich Iflands,
and from thence to China.
Time, j ^;''"'^'-"
North.
-^;-
Sept. 9, ^ ^ Noon.
20 30
1021 16
Longitude
Variations F.alh
I I
1321 21
'421 34
'521 43
1621 52
'7^1 55 18
•9i2o 55159 59
2c 19 I i|i6o 3SI
ai'iS 23''. 61 13, 8 oc
2217 I 3 161 25I
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
81
So 81
S3
77i
8(
81}
82 ;
82
78 1
77
i' E. N. E. Firfl: part, freih breezes ; lat- ter, light winds. Wcfl endofRanai N. 10 deg. W. 14 or 15 miles. I N. E. Moderate breezes, and cloudy. J At II A. M. anchored in the Bay, ] South fide of Woahoo, in eight la- l_ thorns water.
^E. N. E. Strong breezes, and cloudy. ( Getting in WMtcr. { Ditto. Strong breezes. Compleated the ( water, and employed in getting wood. \E. N.E. Frcfli gales, and cloudy. At } five A. M. under fail for Atoui. N.\. E. Light breezes, and clouelv.
N. W. point of Woahoo N. H; dco.
E. difrant eii?,ht leairues. r Variable, I, ight breezes. King's Mount, • Atoui, N.'W. b. W. i. W'. eight or l nine leagues.
(j\. N.E. Light winds, and fine wca- ( ther. Several canoes alongfide. ^E. N. E. Light winds. At imchorin ( Wymoa Bay, Atoui. (,8. E. l'"n!h brec/es, and clouilr. '11k I king, ^vith his attendants, 0:1 h^ard. ^ E. N. 1^. Freih brcizes, and ciouuv. I Lukicr I'aii f >r Cliina. (iE;'iiI. r'relh bru/c, anv! clear. A ^ fwell from the Falhv.ird. I E;;il. Squally, ^vltll rain. ^N. E. 1m\ la breezes, and fine pleafant ( weather.
,.-i
ft
APPENDIX. No. IT.
TABLE X. Continued Route of the Queen Charlotte while amongft thr Sandwich Iflands,
and from thence to China.
1
I.atitiKlc :Loncitudc A'arir.tions, n -- - \VciK ; Eaih ' -
Noon, y, ^ i
,,SE'iih Frclh breezes and Iqiuilly, with '' "^l nin.
\ Ditto. Strong breezes, and clear wca- 2413 5^>'^H 02 S 10 77 ^ j,^^^_
\ l-:aft. Frelli breezes, and plealant wea- ^^ ( ther.
-9II Ditto. Squally, with rain. 82' I N. K. to E. b. S. Ditto, with ditto. 8 .4 ^' S I '- ' E. N. E. A ih-on'4 gale, and fqually.
2^1:; 22 166 14
26 13 35 i6j 48
27 13 37 1 68 20
28,13 4> '7^ 3S
29513 3<^'73 28
3°!' 3 43^75 28
80
Ditto. A ftrong gale, with heavy rain. E. N. E. to K.'S. E. Frelh breezes,
Oct. 1 13 40176 20!
.213 36177 44
I I !
3'^ 3 44' 79 32|
413 47'^^ '^1
513 47 1 82 23 12 00
613 491' ^3 51
713 4' '^5 o'
hn 24 1^? 37
y^-f ^»-.— — -
^ ) with lightning and rain. I E. S. !•:. 'to E. b. N. Light winds, and ^^ ] cloudy. A Avell from the Northward. ( E. N. E. Eight breezes, and i^l\c wea- ^37] 'ther.
(Ditto. Frefli breezes and Iqually, with 3 j lightning. 82J I Eaft. h'relli breezes, and cloudy. , 'SS. E. Light winds. Lightning in the ^4 } N. E.
8i4 I E. S. E. Squally, with heavy rain. 84' I Eafl. Frelh breezes, .uul finr weather. SE. N. E, Frelh breezes at. 1 Iqually, I witli rain. , U^itto. Ditto and heavy fqualls, with 9^3 12189 31; 82 ^ ^^i,^_
I I ■ , \S. S. E. to E. b. N. Light winds, and
1013 1819036 83 ^ cloudy. A heavy Iwcll from (he S. E.
I I I , U-:. b. N. Squally. A fwell from the
,113 05192 06^12 10 81 ^ Northward, il'i^ 08194 22' i 83 i Fait. I'reth breezes, and line weather.
A P P E N D I X. No. 11.
3:^
TABLE X. Continued. Route of the Queen Charlotte while amongft the Sandwich Iflands,
and from thence to China.
Time.
Lntitude iLongitudc North, I Well.
Od. 13,, Noon. ^ -^ ^
14
16
t8 191
ao 21
24 16
25 16
26 16
27117 28;i8 29|i9
3'^; '9
12 51
13 09
1 3 C.4
13 22
13 22 '3 25
14 01
14 I r
196 20
198 28
200 02 20a 02
203 47
206 04
208 10
210 32 1 12 16
Vnriations d- Kail. I 3
22 14 47214 16
251216 27
io|2i8 34
34'220 2S
57|222 36
26'225 19
24I227 44
02229 44
19
31 27
31 19 52239 00
8 21 7 ^5
5 31
25
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
S3^
81}
77 82i
80
82 80
82^
«3
^^4
«3
^3
83^
«4
«3^
82'
84^
84
E. b. N. Heavy fqualls, with rain, thutuler, and lightning. A fwell from the Eaihvard. E. N. E. Squally, with thimdcr, light- ning, and rain. A heavy fea from the Eaftward. S. E. Squally, with rain. Variable. Trefh breezes, and cloudy. N. E. Freih breezes and fqually, with
rain. Ditto. Strong breezes, and lightning. E. N. E. Squally, with rain. ^ E. b. N. Ditto, ditto. A heavy fwell I from the N. E.
(E. N.E. Moderate, and clear. Saw ( fevcral b'rds and fifli round the fhip. E. N. E. Frefli breezes, and clear. Saw the land bearing N. 80 deg, W. five or fix leagues. At fix, P. M. the center of Aguigan bore N. 83 dcg. E. dirtant five leagues. E. N. E. Frclh breezes, and cloudy. N. E. b. E. Squally, with rain. Ealt. Frclh breezes, and cloudy. E. N. E. Ditto, ditto. N. E. A frefli gale, with rain. E. S. E. Squally, with rain. Ditto. A trclli breeze, and fine weather. ^ E. N. E. Moderate breezes, and fine I weather.
( Ditto. Moderate breezes. Kuiribers of ( filh and birds round the Ihip.
.1 '
I-
H
34
APPENDIX. No. TI.
T A B L K X. Contlnuctl. Route of the Queen Charlotte while amongft the Sandwich Idands,
and from thence to China.
Time.
Nov. I Noon.
North.
. U'.ivlc \ :iri:):lons
W tit.
Eall.
'['20 lb233 12
221 02
236 00
321 06237 24
421 24238 50
521 35239 37
621 37,241 55
722 22
822 07
244 56
WinJs, Weather, and Rem;uks.
85 82
80 <1
79 76
75 <
79H
E. N. E. Moderate breezes, and fine
weather. Variable. Frefli breezes and fqually,
with thunder, hghtning, and rain. N. E. Strong gales. A heavy Iwell
from theN. W.. "Eaft. Frefh breezes, and dark cloudy weather. At two, P. M. faw a fmall illand bearing N. 40 deg. W. four or five leagues ; and foon afterwards ano- ther illand to the Northward of the firft. At eight, P. M. fiood to the , Southward, under an eafy lail. (Variable. Squally, rainy weather. At i two, P. M. faw two of the Balhee ^ Iflands bearing South 37 deg. E. lix or feven leagues dirtant. X. E. to North. Strong gales, and cloudy. A heavy luell from the Northward. N. N. E. Frcfli gales, and hazy. At eight, A. M. law the land bearing N. W. diftant four or five leagues. Sounded 25 fathoms, grey and with black fpecks. At one, P. M. faw fe- veral Chinefe filhing-boats. N. E. Frelh breezes. Clot a pilot for Macao, and at 11 P. M. came to in the roads in fix fathoms water ; the Peak of Lintin N. 79 deg. E. the city of Macao W. ] S.
APPENDIX. No. IT.
3S
TABLE XL
Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Chnia to
parting Company off Java Head.
Time.
Latinidc Longitude iVariations North, i Well. \\'clh
I7b8.
Feb. lo, } Noon. ^;
Lr n
-1 3
21 35:
I I 20 02246 00
1218 54246 05
13,18 oi 246 02
I4II7 44246 30
15:16 33246 12
16,15 33246 04
17,14 24247 10
I i
i8'i3 01247 49
19,1 1 4224S 30
^o 21
2,2i 24
10 04250 36
8 44252 42
7 0+253 SS 5 3' 254 56 o
1 ; 255 00 25! 2 36255 00
26
I II 254 31
I
Winds, Weather, and Remarks,
6s i
'7
72J 74 75 76
Variable. Frcfli breezes, and fine wea- ther. At I o, A. M. the Peak of the Grand Ladronc N. 40 deg. E. dirtant (^ fix or feven leagues. f- . ^ N. E. to Eafl:. Frefh breezes, and fine '^ I weather.
71 } E. S. E. Moderate breezes, and clear. S. E. to Eaft. Frclh breezes, and clear. S. E. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. E. b. N. Ditto, ditto. N. E. Moderate breezes, and clear. ( ^.j^<E. N. E. A fine breeze, and plealant ' 2^ weather.
77 I N. E. Ditto, ditto.
^ N. E. b. N. Frefh breezes, and fine '' ' ^ weather.
r North to N. E. Frefh breezes. Pulo
78 I Sapata S. 67 deg. W. difliuit four t miles.
, ( N. E. Frefli breezes, and pleafant wea- 79 1 ) ther. ^
Ditto. Moderate, and hazy Eafl. Ditto and cloudy, with lightninc^
(Eaft toF ' " " " ■ ^
) ning and rain
rE. N! E. to N. N. E. Moderate, ditto. Sif Pulo D'OmarN. 37 deg. E. diflant [ four leagues. N. N. E. Moderate breezes. Land 82 <! from S. 38 deg. W. to S. 65 deg. W. difhmt feven or ei";lit Icauucs.
79 So
81
Eafl to E. N. E. Moderate, with light-
/>
APPENDIX. No. 11.
TABLE XI. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China to
parting Company off Java Head.
Time.
ly(uitiuW jUmginido Variations.
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
i-SS.
Feb. ay,
Neon.
28
08Z54
lOi
I 13254 32
29 z H:
March 1
85
82
North to N. N. E. Moderate, and cloudy. The Ifland Dominis W. b. S. ^ feven or eight leagues. "N. N. E. Moderate, with lightning and rain. At 11, A.M. departed this life Mr. William Lauder, lurgcon. At noon, the three ifland s from S. b. E. to E. N. E. diftant from the nearell three or four miles. TN. N. E. Moderate, and cloudy. At 1 o, A . M . committed the body of our late furgeon to the deep. At noon, Monopin Hill N. 10 deg. W. five or fix leagues. At one, P. M. faw a dry bank of land and rocks. At half pait one, the middle of the bank bore S. E. b. S. I of a mile diftant; depth of water eight and nine fathoms ; Mo- nopin Mill at the fame time bearing N. W.b. N. Palled the bank to the I Eaftwardj and at feven, P. M. an- chored in 1 1 fathoms, muddy bottom. Variable. At five, A M. weighed and made fail. Squally, with thunder, lightning, and rain. Mount Permafang E. b. N! a point on the Sumatra fliorc S. b. W. dillant three or four miles. i At three, P. M. palled a Dutch man of war lying at anchor. At half palt five, tlie Lanrdown Eail-Indiainan ioined company. At feven, anchored "in (j\ tatiioms, nnuldy bottom.
APPENDIX. Nf . II.
TJ
T A B L E XI. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China to
parting Company off Java Head.
Time.
l.ati'.iid.:
South.
LcngituJo Variations Wdl. Welt.
i-Si.
Mar, a, Noon.
08
3 09
3 56
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
79 <
82i-
^7
Variable. Lightning, thunder, and rain. At five, A. M. weighed and made fail. At nine anchored, the Ifland of Lufepara bearing N. 43 deg. E. fix or eight miles ; firll point on the Sumatra (bore N. W. At half paft one, P. M. weighed and made fail. At half pall five, the Lanidown got aground, flood more to the Wellward, and ict go the anchor in 6^ fathoms water; the liland of 1 Aifepara S. 49 deg. E. five or fix miles ; firll point on the Suma- tra lliore N. W. b. N. Hoiiled out the whale-boat, and went on board the Lanidown w ith feven hands to af- ii(l in getting her off.
Variable. Light winds, with thunder, lightning, and rain. At three, A. M. got the Lanfdoun into deep water w ithout any damage. At noon, weigh ed and lailed in company ; i'oundings from iix to four fathoms. At four, P. M. the Ifland Lufepara N. 88 deg. E. dillant fix or feven miles.
Variable. Si]u;dly, with rain. By noon mcreafcd our Ibundmgs to eight fa- tlioms. At tlu'ee, P. M. anchoretl in I I fathonis water ; tide letting K. S. E. one n)ile per hour.
South. Light brce/es, with tininder, iiolnninc, and rain. Durir"- this 2.: hours, (everal times under weiiih.
APPENDIX. No. II.
TABLE XI. Continued. Route of the King George and (^uecn Charlotte from China to
parting Company off Java Head.
Time.
I .atituiie Loneimdc N'nriationj VVeft.
South.
-Ni.
Mar. 6,\
Noon. J
Well,
4 17
S 4 53
4 57
f |
|||
10 |
5 |
04 |
|
1 1 |
5 |
06 |
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
90
87 <
^sU
83i<
C Variable. Moderate, and cloudy. At fc- I ven, P. M. weighed and made fail. At I ^, pafl: 10, came to in eight fathoms. r Variable. Moderate, with rain and light- I ning. At half pail three, A. M. came to Ihil. At one, P. M. anchored in II fathoms water, muddy bottom. Variable. Light airs. At half pall one, A. M. failed. At noon, the Sifters S. 40 deg. W^ fix or fcvcn miles. At fix, P. M. came to in 10 fa- thomswater; the Sifters S. 17 cleg. W. Variable. Squally, with rain. At four, A. M. finding the Ihip dragged her anchor, hove it up and made fail. At ten, light winds. Came to, with the heft bower in 1 1 fathoms water ; the Sifters bearing S. 25 dcg. W. diftant nine miles. At noon, weighed and made fail. At fix, P. M. came to in 1 1 fathoms water ; the Sifters bear- ing S. b. E. four or five miles. H'ariable. At three, P. M. weighed and made fail. At five, anchored in ten fathoms ; the Northermoft of the Sifters S. 40 deg. E. From S. E. b. S. to S. S. W. Light breezes, and cloudy. Atfeven, A. M. weighed and made fail. At 10, A. M. ^5 ^ anchored in I 2 fathoms; Northermoft of the Sifters S. 50 deg. E. four miles diftance.
82
APPENDIX. No. rr.
39
TABLE XL Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China to
parting Company off Java Head.
M;ir. I 2 I Noon, ^
^^
>4. '5
1 6
24
I -atitude iLongitudc I Variations South. \\cl\. Wflt.
5 35
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
»7
«7 <i
^5 84
N'oaii 82
83
fVariablc. Squally, with rain, thunder, and lightning. At five, A. M. weigh- ^ ed and made Tail. At noon, moderate and cloudy. At two, P. M. anchor- ed in 1 1 fathoms water. N. W. Squally, with rain. At four, A. M. weighed and made fail. At 1 1 , came to in five fathoms water. At noon, weighed and Itood through be- twixt North Illand and the Sumatra fliore, and anchored in nine fathoms water, muddy bottom ; North Ifland bearing N. E. b. N, diftant three miles; the watering-place S. W. four miles. Found riding here fcvcral Dutch vclTcls. \ N. W, Light breezes, and cloudy. At ( anchor, wooding and watering.' I Variable and cloudy weather, with much I lightning. At icven, A. M. weighed ; and came to fail in company with the King CJeorgc. Fiom this to the ajd getting to Cracatoa, where wc filled up our water. Variable, with rain. At four, A. M. weighed and made fail in company w 'th the King George. At noop/, the Peak on Cracato.i bore N. rS dcir. W. At nine, P. M. anchorea in j .. fathoms, muddy bottom ; p— ■• of Prince's. Ulund S. 76 d.-^''
4^
^PIM- N DI X. No. ir.
TABLE XI. Continued. Route of the Ku.g George and Queen Charlotte from Chhia, to
parting Company oli^ Java Head.
Time.
T
Latitude iLonghtkle 'Variations I
South. ' ^^v■ll. t Weft. I
I-8>!.
Noon. S:
26' 6 361
28
7 49254 40,
08'
255 09
29,10 17255
oH
3011 13254 50
AVinds, Weather, and Remarks.
4^^
W K W. to N.W. Frelh breezes. M four, A. M. weighed and^ made| l-iil. At noon, theextremesot rnnce s Illand from W. N.W. to S. 65 deg. W /^t fix, P. M. eamc to m 40 ta- thoms, nu.dandfand. t:>^f'-emes of Prince's liland from N. N. W. to
s. w.vw.
Variable. " FveHi breezes, and IquaU) . At nine, A.M. weighed and made 8, i faih At four. P.M. the rocks ofi -^ I Java Heatl bore N. S5 deg. h. dilhucc
! ortMbore four or five miles. «.i. I W N. W. Krelh bree/es, and cloudy. ' , ' ( N ." N . W . to W . N . \\' . Squally , with ^4 ) run
, In. W.' to N. F.. Ditto, ditto. Faffed ^37^ the Q^ieen Indiaman.
("Variable. Moderate, and cloudy. Tins ' day agreed to part coinpany with the ^' ] King'Ck-orge; the C>>.ieen Indiaman L in right.
APPENDIX. No. ir,
41
I
TABLE XII.
Route of the Queen Charlotte, after parting Company with the
King George, to St. Helena.
Time.
1788. Mar. 3 1 'Noon.
Latitude longitude vSoiith. I \\d\.
Variations . Weil. !
3-
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
!1T
April I I i
2.14.
416
6 17
91S loiiS
I ijia 1 219
14 19
I ;; :.o
"i J 6 20
1721
1821 1921
I
'202Z
3S256 43
44257 4^
I
I
0.3259 19
29261 II 30263 14 54265 01 10267 °7 36269 10 50271 16 14273 04
29I274 44
511276 58
09^278 23 36279 24
59:281 20'
I 37283 12,
I 4^,284 33
14286 41
29289 18
45.291 2416 15
08294 04
SfiJ^"''^^^^''^'-'- '''q'-'^^lJy. witli rain; the King
' ^^l George in fight.
g^ ^N. E. to S. E. Light breezes. Loll
( fight of the King George. ^.^ ^E. N. E. Frelh'breezJs and fijually, "^ ^^ C with rain.
79
79i 8r
80
79
7^^ 7«
Eafl to S. E. Frefli breezes, and clear. S. E. Ditto, ditto. E. N. E. Moderate, and fine weather. E. S. E. Squally, u ith rain. S. E. Frefh breezes. A (well fromS. E. E. S, E. Ditto. Ditto. Eall to E. N. E. Moderate, with rain 81 |E. b. S. Ditto, ditto.
-ri.^^- '^; ^^- ^''■^'^^^ breezes and fqually, ^•^ ■' ( with rain.
76 j S^. E. Ditt(;, ditto, and clear,
„ ( E. S. E. Frelh breezes, and fine wea-
^7 I th.T.
79 I E. F. E. Ditto, Ditto.
^ , (E, b. S. Frelh breezes, and fine wea-
^9t^ ther.
^^ ^ Ditto, Moderate breezes, and fine wea- ( I her. A heavy f well from the 8. W. „ ^ South to S. E. Strong breezes, and '^ ( iqually.
"6 \^' ''■ ^-'" , ^'^'^'■""M 'freezes, and clear. A ^ ( erofs Tea.
^fy} S !-• ^- ^- f^ f^'-- N- E. Moderate breezes, ^ - ( and cloudy.
^^ SE. N. E, Moderate, and cloudy. A ''' l lieavy fwell from the Southward
¥
4"
APPENDIX. No. If.
j TABLE XII. Continued.
I Route of the Queen Charlotte, after parting Company with the
King George, to St. Helena.
Tiinc.
Latitiuk LiiflgitiKk- Varl.iiions! Si.uth. I Wert. Wert.
Wiiuls, Weather, and Remarks.
,788. : - ■ i "
Apr. 21 ? ^2 27296 20 Noon. S
2"^ 22 54299 00
242-? 27300 22
i ' I ■
2524 04302 00
26.24 4430.^ 40j
2726 03304 20^
\ I I
2827 00305 5419
i i 1
2927 51 ^o-] 20,
30 2S 09310 3021
May 12S 5,^3' 3 ^,
229 173' '^ 4^^*
3'2S 27314 44
4^28 0^316 44
S\2^ 54'3»^ »5 6'29 26320 00 7(30 1 1 '32 1 5H
30
00
35
80 ^ N. N. K. Fi'^'i^'^ breezes, and dear.
76^ ! Variabk-. Squally, witli rain.
' r Ditto. Frc-th breezes, and cloudy. At 77 I five, P. M. f'lw two I'lii m tlie S. K. I quarter, llandmg N. K. (Variable. Frelh breezes, and elouJy. 72 A lieavv Iwcll.
iS. b. E. to N. E. Frelli breezes, and 7' ) 'cloudy. 72 IS. E. Ditto, and clear.
S Ditto. Erelh breezes, and fine weather. 74 I Filh and birds roun.l the ihip.
, ^ E. S. E. Frelh breezes, and tine wea- 74i| ther.
SEall. Ditto, ditto. Lightnnig to the 74 I s. \V. 72' I Ditto. '^■Vt lb breezes, and f^iuidlv.
'^E. S. E. to N. E. Ditto, diiio, At,': 74 I thunder and lightning.
SN b W.toWed. Frelh breezes, a:id
l^n rk-ar.
72 I S. H . to S. S. E. Ditto, with ram.
ri>Hfo to ditto. Frelh breeze.. CIreat
quantities ot^ lionetra round the Ihiii,
Iveral of which our people caught
wifli !w)ok and line.
, USouth. Frelh breezes. Numbers ol
7°^^ hirds and filh round the Ihip.
(.South to S. E. Frelli bi-ezet, ami "V' / iluudy. Fill; and birds round the Ihip, i 70 i E. S. E. to E, N. E. Ditto, ditto, ditto.
APPENDIX. No. II.
43
TABLE XII. Continued. Route of the Queen Charlotte, aftc.' parting Company with the
King George, to St. Helena.
'riniC i '■'"'""^'•' jLongituiic VanatiorT.
South
V^'clh
\\'cft.
May 8,)' I J
Noon. 5|^° ^^-^'^ '^j
931 30324 3 'I
i i
IOJ2 08325 13
f !
1 1 32 45327 06
' /-I
12 ^3 26329 08
1334 22^33
1 2
i^ 35 26334 40 i5j3(3 07336 21 16,136 10336 53
'7
35 24
.^36 53
1836 30
1037 36
336 40
33(> 50
3
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
12
69 |S. S. W. Frefh breezes, and fqually.
. SEafttoN. N. E. Frefh breezes, and
( hazy, ^j E. N/E. to S. W. b. S. Squally, with
' ( lightning and rain.
^ ^ South toS. S. W. Light winds, an;!
^ I clear.
68 I S. S. E. to N. E. Ditto, ditto.
-2 ^^•.^" f^redi breezes. A heavy fwell '' ( from S. W.
^^SN. N. E. Ditto, ditto. At 1 1, A.M. ' - ( palled an empty calk. 75j ! N. E. Moderate, and cloudy, -o ) Variable. A heavy gale, and crofs H-a. ' ( Saw a large lliip Ihnding to the S. E. f Variable. A heav) gale. Found both pumps choaked with land ; got tlum 62 'X "^^ '^'^''^ cleared them; broke up the fore-hold to examine if there was any water lodged— found all dry ; llowcd - the teas again, and lecurcd the hold. W. to S. W. A heavy gale. Obliged to keep one pump on deck, and a hand in the well, to keep the other 60 -^ ilear of fand. Found a leak abaft. Got ieveral things out of the run, and hove them overboard to liglitcij the Ihip abaft.
3 S N. E. to N. W. b. N. A heavy gale ( and crol's lea.
I
I
4^
APPENDIX. No. ri.
T A B L E XII. Continued.
Route of the Queen Charlotte, after parting Company with tlie
King George, to St. Helena.
TinK
T.stituJc Ldntjituilf !V,iriations
>i mil. \Vdi. i Welt.
17SI5.
May 20, ^ , ,
Noon. ) ■ -^ ' r-^ ^
2236 00338 10
s
-3
24
:>S 4^33^"^ 09
3S 3^^
3.<^ 19
26
35 32
36
337 4H
'-^7 3^
'7 339 00 12,339 39
20
37 12340 03
2935 54342 '6
3034 50345 32
Winds, Wc.-ithcr, and Riinirks.
N. VV. to W. b. N. A (ycih gak-, ami ^ I cloudy. Ilovt; tour b;urcls ot powdcT. • overboard. Sawn large Ib.ip itandin^i;i \_ to the Eaftward. i
\ Varial)le. A tredi gale, and cloudy, with | "^' I a crols lea ; tiie pump ilill on deck, j Variable. A heavy gale, and high Tea. I 60 "i Saw a large Ihip Handing to the Eafl- ward. N. VV. to North. A heavy g.de. Undtr! reefed courfes and foretopniaft fbiy- 1 tail. In a heavy fquali fpiit the forc-1 topm;iJl: flay fail, unbent it, and bent another. W. N. VV. to VVcfl. Stronir breezes, and cloudy. A heavy crols fca. Ciot ground 70 fathotns. At feven, A.M. law a lliip Ibuulingto the Northward. \V. b. N. to VV. b. S. I'relli bree/es, and cloudy. At eight, A. M. Ipoke the Lanldown F.art-Indianian.all well. Variable. Moderate, ami clear. A heavy
5« <
59'^
59
59 56
59
^1
fvvdl from the VV. S. VV.
N. VV. b. N. to N. b. []. Frefli breezes,
and
qually
at times.
^ Ncirtli to N. \y, Frelh breezes, and
( lijuallv.
^Vari.ible. Ditto, ditto. A heavy Tea
^^^ I from S. \^
54
<> S. S. W. K, n. h. E. A frelli gale, .and '( fqually,
APPENDIX. No. ir.
45
TABLE XII. Continued. Route of the Queen Charlotte, after partin- Company -,vith the
King George, to St. Helena.
Time, i Y^'f" |>-""«it'"ie
May 71 )\ I
Noon. \y^ 44 .H7 5° i
June 1^2 0434S I]
j I
2'jO 4834S 1S21 13
I i
329 5434^' 27
i J
429 1S347 39
^'28 26346 36
627 1734^ 24
i j
7I26 19.347 27
^24 S^ 3S° 04
9,23 44352 05
10J22 27,354 19
I l;20 5S356 40
I 2; I 9 3435S 47
J 3^1 8 23 00 30
1 <; '7 06' 2 M
1616 18 -^ (;8
J7i6 04 4 30
^
-1
^Wiriahlc. Fictli brcvzo, and rioudv. ^^ I Saw a full ^^ ^S. vS. E. f!) K. S. E. Modtratcbrcezf's,
( and clear. ^^ SEail to S. E. Modcnuc brcczfs, and
( , ilcar. Got both pumps down. z' , S Variable. Light winds, and clear. Saw
"'I ufcal. ^j S Ditto, Frefli breezes, ;uid fquallv. Saw
c a whale. ^ J J, !) Variable. Frelb gales and cloudy, with * ( rain.
/-^x^ '^'^^'^- Eredi breeze.";, with a heavy -( (well tVom the N. \V.
62 i * ^^ ■ ^'* ^" "^^ ^' ^''fi^"'^ winds, a heavv ( crofs ("ea.
^ ) S. S. E. to S. S. \V. Strong breezes, and
' C hazy.
65} j S. E. Frefh breezes, and cloudy.
66^
(>! 68
68J
68
, ^S. E. b. S. Ditto, ditto, and hazy. A
16 02 71 7'^
following fca.
Ditto. Freih breezes, and cloudy.
S. E. b. 8. A trelh gale, and ditto.
Variable. Freih breezes, and cloudy.
S. E. A fine breeze, and cloudy. Hav- ing made 360 deg. Weft, and loft one liay, we call this the 15th.
S. E. b. S. Moderate, and cloudy.
S. S. E. Ditto, ditto.
n
•*:(•
46
APPENDIX. No. II.
TABLE XII. Continued. Route of the Queen Charlotte, after parting Company with the
King George, to St. Helena.
Time.
Latitude 'Longitude IV'ariationb South. I Wert. Weft.
178S*.
June 1 8, Noon.
Winds, Weather, and Remarks.
rSouth to E. S. E. Moderate, and hne
\veather. At half part three, A.M.
law St. Helena bearing N. W. At 1 i ,
7- i anehored in the road in 19 tathoms.
Found here the King George, and le-
j_ veral more (hips.
I
^\
I
APPENDIX. No. n.
47
TABLE xrrr.
Shews the Difference between the Watch, Lunar Obfervatlons, and Longitude, by Account at Noon on feveral Days durhig the Paffage from St. Jago to the Sandwich Iflands.
N. B. The \\'atch is one of Mr. Arnold's fmall Pocket Time-keepers.
Watrh
Welh
Dec.
25
Fcb.M 7,
M.ircl
241 154
Lunar Ohfcrvations Wc(t. I
!o
09
35 10
21 37
0.1! 28
45 30
25 33
46 38
35 42
21, no obferv.
4°! 53 36' 42 no oblerv
10 ditto.
291 64 37: 1 9 no obfcrv.i 301 ditto 51) ditto
30; S2 50I 4o| (S2 2^1 4ino obfcrv.)
3\ ^^ 38| 1 6 110 obfcrv. I 00' S9 20' 4*^ 92 04
00 ro9 20 oc I 1 5 40 1 1 S 4c no obfcrv. 120 32 124 30 127 44 146 4,- 147
4- '5 ' 34 '51
1 i, ao obfcrv. 15-^ 16 ditto. 154
24 26
29 33
38
43 51 51
54
^1
63
74 86
«7 «5 «7 ^'3 90
94
99 I 2
54
30
34
56
4'
43
58
35
25!
r8j
^°i 59 1 1
01
39' 26:
25I
03!
44I
'7'
24;
'3|
55I
58
32
39
33i 10
Having found the watch to alter her rate of going in different degrees of heat and cold before we left St. Jago, I made a fmall table of the altera- tions by which fhe was always cal- culated during our paffage to the Sandwich Illands.
At the time we left St. Jago, the watch loft on mean time o'. oo"\ 02". per day.
On our leaving the Falkland Iflands, Hie lofl per Jay.
flie lofl on mean time o''. oo"\ 05'.
Mav 24th. at noon, the N. E. point of Ovvbv:ee bearing N. ', W. three or four Icagucb diihnt. 1 found the watch to be out iu longitude 38 miles.