^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I 1.25 2.2 1^ 1.4 1.6 6" ^^ /^ 'W o 7 Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WES" MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^o- .^ ^'4^f^ ^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historicai IVIicroreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques 1 1 Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notas tachniques at bibiiographiquat Tha Inatituta haii attamptad to obtain tha baat original copy availabia for filming. Faaturaa of this copy which may ba bibllographlcally un'qua, which may altar any of tha imagas In tha raproduction, or which may algniflcantly changa tha usual mathod of filming, ara chackad balow. D D n Colourad covars/ Couvartura da coulaur I I Covars damagad/ Couvarturo andommag^a Covars restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restauria at/ou palllcul6a Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque Coloured maps/ Cartes gAographiquas an coulaur Colourad inic (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ ReliA avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La reliure serr6e peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge intArieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajoutias lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais. lorsque cela Atait possible, ces pages n'ont pas AtA filmias. I I C Additional comments:/ Commentaires supplAmantaires; 7 t( L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a AtA poaslbia de se procurer. Les dAtaiis de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mtthoda norrnale de filmage »ont indiqute ci-dessous. I I Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endom magmas Pages restored and/oi Pages restaurAes et/ou pellicultes Pagas discoloured, stained or foxei Pages dicolorAes, tjcheties ou piqutes I I Pages damaged/ I I Pages restored and/or laminated/ r~~] Pagas discoloured, stained or foxed/ □ Page} detached/ Pages d6tach6es Showthrough/ Transparence □ Quality of print varies/ Quality intgaia de I'impression I I Includes supplementary material/ D Comprend du material supplAmantaira Oniy edition available/ Seule Mition disponlble Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totai^mant ou partiellement obscurcies par un fauiMet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6ti filmAes A nouveau de fagon A obtenir la meilleure image possible. 7 P 0 fl C b tl s o fi s o T si T IV d ei b< ri re rr This item Is filmed at tha reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film6 au taux de rMuction indiquA ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 12X 16X 20X 26X 30X 24X 28X 32X The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: National Library of Canada L'exemplaire film6 fut reproduit grdce d la g6n6rosit6 de: Bibliothdque nationale du Canada The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol — »- (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les images suivantes ont 6t^ reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tonu de la condition et de la nettet6 de l'exemplaire filmd, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprim6e sont fiimds en commen^ant par le premier ple^ t en terminant soit par la dernidre page qui com.^orte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont filmds en commen^ant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole — ► signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbole V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film^s d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est film6 d partir de I'angle supdrieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 # U ' m-. M I .1 s ■i;"?r!«?!Pf!mfmi»fifffm^K--^i! t -y^ \ llo --F'F- 1 — ' I ■ I • — I — • I ■ I ^ I ' r H — ^- r --tr::.-Tr^ dEi^STHZx: -I -F-|— T ■ f r-y ,\ :i tM) Ij. I ! I i I ir 40 I ^ si^^iilHtvt^ K.,E.,0(i)AST()FASlA. ;m(l r./.i/RdiA^j!:.'^ lit: JLs-LEs uiulcr tlic Coimii.'iinl of I .(/. I ii.vlinii '/) r 1 1 1 u I .T- .-,i I- I I I _£:: aE^iix£ ^\^ c L^ri- F't-j^i. ?^ T.*^"* ,/ll l( TS 0 r \ \ i£r.-u^.Zl_i_ 1140 i ,^ .^. ^ / 0 / /.' ^/ ^^/ /:> *7 .>'//■<" f»/'* / M ('.Xtiiniut 1 ■■' V, Vi ,/^sf \ ^'''•" y'linhl, l -^ '< X iiOO EZJ^^acH^r • I > i 3^aZF; r:- =i^ i1' " .^Kl i ,/ ,/ / ^j^' 'X / „/ J ^^■' n ■"^, p//W,»(. f>/' / X "/in t '. Xitinhtl •^1 rA. X _/ .^ \ 3 /V'^v yiinihu y .v^ :,.: ,I,A iido r:- EE^EEi^-^IlTii-:^^^ -t_r_>_.'i jl.iTU-Ii. Lzx." v^T:_-.11 -y. V .''y / X- ,1 -,tZ?E,-i-X-c-".Lf.> ..!.-. -J. -J^._a:; •i! ff 40 T ■?■ f ^i^ ;/'■ . . 1 .V /./.v i^ r [; T 1 ' „-.(/".'i ' .7 - r '' f'ii'nirtiiir*',^- /' --V^vf^" :^:^ i^oUf Tobatfv *V^eR,-tr ,v7i."" ..,v/" "■ 1'h^ Shif> Mvv.» /*'.<■' /((v*- r/i*- ly*^ ft' May '7'/^, 'fcl' V mo Ti:r¥^-yj^"Tzi^^Li \7:-'^~b[±i^e^=:^. E^ 1|30 EaO Long^tiidf (rniii (trmiwirli , ^--^^-^ ^^i:- -n /. X-''\i^ s>^ ..^■^^* A-J- m ^'4 Stiniiimn /'/ v-*4--^\/' '<:> rv-* ., / 13" -^ \ r *-VAw r -7 J )./ If C 5^ «'-^/'«/.r/lr/i' / J'"""y \ Aor/ii/tirrn ,- ,..,V"""'"'" •;„ .r'"' ^==g=^~T 130 ^T^-^-^T"-- -■-•- H— --^tn^:^ ^ 5"rzrTEHIEE3^E^ ~^ • I • I • |-A._j_-i 140 Zonden,l\tJ>b'.tluJ Mar i''i,1,.i hv lUJeH >. Ii'Hi's .' S'ontUmii /'/ «'• ^ /■H/.riWii- :^1=:£--1_lJ.. --I-^JE ^^'r-^^rrbir^ 140 i5o ijb'o -^1 '— i_irrc I ,lo I I _! \\ 1 ]1 i .V /A>W*- ^t.-uf/'.^^^tytirn/j.-i. r. -L :x-t -=!--.• ' '- ' 1^^ I I ■> ■ I I ' *' r I- ' T^rrr-J^r- •— i ~«_J_t_ -i- . ( J ii . » .i ^.i _ , /^' / M! M ''I I »<■ i5 u r /■: v :ir ( ./,/./. § I no r^=:rr£p-n---j_.--, - ■ r :^"'=P3=nii_.,^_,_i_^ <^ i iSi:?:^- — /..n.iii l'i,J,/,.,l„J M.„-,:'i 'iH.j hy ,;,.l,iii . M* Mif^^Mfki -"tttr.*'^*:' '/, VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY TO Tim NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN: IN WHICH rifi; COAST Of asia, from thk lat. of 35* nortu TO Tin; LAT.oj- 52' north, THE ISLAND OF INSU, {commonly KNOWyr UNDER THE NAME OF THE LAND OF ySSSO^) JIIE NOilTH, SOUTH, AND EAST COASTS OP JAPAN, THE LIEJ'CHIEUX AND THE ADJACENT ISLES, AS WELL AS THE COAST OF COREA, HAVE BEEN EXAMINED AND SURVEYED. PERFORMED IN Ills MAJESTY'S SLOOP PROVIDENCE. AND HER TENDER, IN THE YEARS 1795, 1796, 1797, 1798. By WILLIAM ROBERT BROUGHTON. L 0 ND 0 N: raiNTED FOR T, CADELL AND W. DAVIES IN THE STRAND. 1804. /•,. .. /■ ^ ■"»rtte-, T" r i ft'mted liy A. Siraha'i, Kew-Street Sq'jaie. PREFACE. \w\ 'A;l •>1 V()VA(;!.s of Difcoveiy juftlj claim the public at- tention, becaul'c they open new fources of knowledge anil triult?, ami confeiiuently arc interefting to a fcicntitic aiul commercial peo])lc : but it would be unncccllary at any length to expatiate upon the utility of Inch expeditions, iincc that has been fo ingcnioully and convincingly dilplaycd in the Intiodudioa to Cook's third voyage. lligliiy pre-eminent in the fcale of Europe, not only for her military charaaer but for her celebrity alio in the arts of peace, Great Britain has long maintained her envied fupcriority among the nations, from the encouragement Ihc has given to fuch cnter- j»rizes, and for the many illullrious navigators Ihe has produced. 'J'he perfevering refearchcs and unwearied A 2 activity i.. MiMarn- IV PREFACE. activity of our immortal C'ookc advanced lior icinita- tion lor fiicli vovagrs far bevond tlu»!b of his protlc- crflbrs; and had not his unlbrtunate dralh deprived tlie v.orld of his abilities, or the advanced lealbii of the year prevented one of his fuccellbrs in command, * Caotain King, IVoni fuch an attempt, there would have been little opportunity perhaps for the detail of the following journal, or the moft important part of the voyage of La Peroufe. It lliould be remembered that, in the third volume of Cooke's lall work, Captain King obferves that the navigation of the fea between Japan and China afforded the largeft field for dif- covery : and the furvey • f this unknown part of the North Pacific Ocean was particularly recommended by the Honourable Daines f Barrington in his Mif- cellanies, where he fays, " The coail of Corea, the northern part of Japan, and Lieuchieux 1 Hands, Ihould be explored." Captain % Vancouver remarks, " that the Afiatic coaft, from about the latitude of 35° to 52* North, is at prefent very ill defined ; and the American coail, from about the latitude of 44' South to the fouthern extremity of Terra del Fuego, is very little known." X hi • f f *I "* See Vol. III. of Cooke's laft voyage, page 383. t See page Sth of th*; Preface. |; See his 3d Vol. page 489. Such ;6 w ,W< /& ' PREFACE. Siicli Aiggoftioiis and olifi-rvations as tlicfo wonlu naturally have their due Nvcight xvith a navigator uho was xcaloiis to extend tho hoiuids of geography, and who was well aware that little Mas to ho done in any other part of the Pacific Ocean <^^eept that otTettling the poiitiou offonie lew illands, in theinielves oflittlc conflquence. lie might indeed have heiitated to \*hich furvey he (hould give the preference, cither that of the Afiatic coaft from 35° to 52° N. latitude, or of the American coall about 44" S. latitude to Terra del Fuego, had he not been convinced that Captain Vancouver would have completed tlie laft by his returning to England round Cape Horn. Yet here the curfory and faftidious reader may obferve, that however laudable the defign of the following journal may have been, yet it can claim no merit from the novelty of its difcoveries, as that is already pre-orcupied by La Perouic. In anfwer to fuch an obfervation, it is to be hoped that a little attention to this work would convince him of his miftake, and in- duce him to allow, that although the fame feas may have been explored by the two navigators, yet their feparate difcoveries and furvcys ftamp a peculiar and eharaaeriltic (iiflerenec between the voyages. Even bad the fame track been followed entirely, great ad- vantage might have arifcn by it to the intcrefts of fcicnce Ti PREFACE. fcience and geography : the errors of the former, if any, might have been corrcded by the hitter naviga- tor ; and the merit of his difcoverics have been more completely eOablilhed by luter ohiirvations tending to eonfirm then- authenticity. This advantage, it is prefumcd, may be found in the prefcul »vork ; and as the Englilh commander could not poflibly have known the inilructions given to I.a Peroule by the French Government, he is perfertly clear of the charge of imitation. If however the idea Ihould ftill jMcvail, that La Peroufe's voyage has lLii)crfeded the necelhty of this jjrefent publication, perhaj)s a brief ftatement of the difcoverics or furveys made by both navigatoi*s in the fame fcas may remove fuch ill-founded pre- judices, and afcertain the degree of merit due to each voyage feparately. The French editor remarks, that " the examination of the eaftern coaft of Tartary, and the difcovery, as it may be called, of one of the moll extenlive * iilands on the globe, feparated from the continent by a flrait, which was traverfcd in all directions, give La Peroufe's voyage importance and individuality ;" but here it may be obfervcd without any undue prefumption, that the eailerii coaft of Tartar; has been examined aUb Tchoka, or Sagaleen. t^t. fM •%■' by ??:-.:;. tjWf* PREFACE. by tlic Englifli commander, and that the furvev of the cxtriifjvc iJland of Tchoka or Sagaleen is not fii- I)t rior in point of general intereft to that Avhich lias hecn made by liim of Cliica, Jeflfo, or Infu, to the South of it ; an ifhmd indeed of lefs extent, but more an objec^t of curiolity to Europeans. The caufe of geogiaphy, in reli>ecl to thefc hitherto undefined parts, feenis to have been equally benefited by the two navigators; for their feparate furveys will mu- tually corrert the errors relative to thefe two iflands, ^vhieh have been laid down with fuch little attention to accuraey in former maps of the world. Bv the paifage of La Peroufe through the ilraits which bear his name, the infularity of Tchoka was determined ; as that of Chica or Infu was alfo, by the failing of the i^'ovidence through the ftraits of Sangaur. The weitern eoalt of Infu was furveved bv the Providence, wliich La KM-oufc omitted by oo\n ', ■'>I'.v '' All ''.'* A*'-. OF THE Officers, Sailors, and Marines, embarked on board H. M SIood Providence, under the Command of Captain Brouchton. Names and Qualities. Will.«. Robt. Broughton, Commander, Zacharjr Mudge, ill Lieutenant, G. J. F. Young, 2d Lieutenant, James G. Vaftion, 3d Lieutenant, William Chapman, Matter, John Floud, Surgeon, George Young, Lieutenant of marines, John Crofley, Aftronomer, William Mitchell, Boatfwain, William Forfter, Carpenter, John Cawley, Matter's mate, John J. Haywood, Midfliipman, Reginald B. Hopkins, ditto, James B. Boyde, ditto, Lord George Stuart, ditto, Honourable Alexander Jones, ditto, T. Coulfton, Carpenter, Surg. 2d mate, Time when and Place where dl/charged, ilfc. 28th May 1798, Difclarged at Trin. comaiec to return home loth June 1797, Went home with leave from China nth June 1797, Ditto 23d May 1798, Difcharged per fentencc of Court-Martial 38th May 1798, Difcharged to H. M. Ship Trident 28th May 1798, Difcharged to H. M. Ship Orpheus loth June 1797, Went home with leave from China loth June 1797, Difcharged at China 13 th Went home with leave from China 28th May 1798, Difcharged at Trin- comalce 28th May 1798, Difcharged to H. M. Ship Suffolk 28th May 1798, Difcharged to H. M. Ship La Sybille 28th May 1798, Difcharged to H. M. Ship ViAorious loth June 1797, Went home with leave from China loth June 1797, Ditto iith-^ . Ditto loth , Ditto Stephen . -TW .-B-it^tJ A LIST OF THE NAMES, &c. Xlll Tfr' Namti and Qualiliet. Stephen Bones, Clerk, John Dining, Mafter at arms, George Randal, Carpenter's mate, Edward Miller, ditto, Thomas Belcher, Boatfwain's mate, Martin Neal, ditto, Jofeph Mott, ditto, Thomas Morrifon, Gunner's mate, Robert Miller, (hip's Corporal, Charles Bruce, Sail-maker's mate, John Oldroyd, able Seaman, David Henderfon, ditto, James Steel, ditto, John Graham ditto, William Bryan, ditto, Andrew Mitchell, ditto, John Williams, ditto, John Wilfon, ditto, Matthew Leonard, ditto, Thomas French, ditto, James Edwards, ditto, Thomas Stevens, ditto, Nathaniel Ireland, ditto, John Hopkins, ditto, James Donald, ditto, Samuel Redriff, ditto, Hugh M'Donald, ditto, Patrick Sherry, Landfman, Daniel Dell, private Marine, Jonathan Bird, ditto, Hans Oldfon, able Seaman, Robert Ogilvy, Mafter's mate, John DeLhoyde, ditto, Time tuhen and Place nuhcre dtfcharged, Ule. 38th May 1798, Difcharged at Trin- comalee loth June 1797, Difcharged at China 28th May 1798, Difcharged at Trin- comalee to H. M. Ship Suffolk . 28th May 179^, Ditto Ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto dittc ditto ' ■ Ditto Ditto ■ Ditto Ditto " Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto ■ Ditto ' Ditto — Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto to His Majefty's Schooner Providence 28th May 1798, Ditto ditto Ditto ditto Ditto to return home — Ditto ditto 25th March 1795, Died at fea i6th June 1795, Killed by falling from the main-topfail yard 6th June 1796, Killed by falling from the mizen top 30th July 1796, Killed by the natives of Onehow 30th July 1796, Ditto ditto Sept. 29th, Killed by accident at Infu June J 797, Loft in H. M. Sh-p Swift — Ditto ditto Robert 11 ','1 ) J, XIV A LIST OF THE NAMES, &c. Namet and QuaMtt, Robert Mjarini'-, MiJrtiiph mi, IVancih Counn ., w'iirgtO!»'i> tirfl, mate, William Clcik, Captain's rr.ate, GedrjTf Cidiinan, Caipirntcr':; crjw, David Sfarke, ditto, George Allen, Gunner's mate, Jo'in Thoinfon, Qnarttr-inallcr, Hcniy Jones, ditto, I'l'tcr Sworiis ditto, William Owen, ditto, Robert Gamble, ditto, William Coleman, able Seaman, Thomas Capper, ditto, Henry Sheuman, ditto, Abraham Graves, ditto, David Stevens, ditto, Robert Burn, ditto, Alexander Graham, ditto, James Cierke, ditto, WiUiam Dring, ditto, Peter Murry, ditto, John Davis, ditto, Jofeph Kennedy, ditto, John Moon, ditto, Alexander Diicas, ditto, James Butcher, ditto, Benjamin Braid, Corporal of marines, John Cook, Drummer, Janes Wilkie, private Marine, Jofeph Whiles, ditto, Francis Clerk, ditto, William Julford, ditto, John Lloyde, ditto, William Hertekoal, ditto, Peter Johnfon, ditto, John Haiton, ditto, John Bacon, ditto, William Bacon, ditto, Thomas Weftwood, ditto, T'tmt vihen and Place nvhei-f tfifchar^ed, (sfc. June 1797, Died on board I.oft in H M. Ship Swift Ditto ■ Ditto . Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto John A LIST OF THE NAMES, &c. ^v (Sfc. ift Name: and Qtialltiet. John Pickwick, Marine, William 'I'lioina^, ditto, Thomas Horn, ditto, William Walker, Carpenter's crew, Thomas Mullen, Gunner, Alexander Bilhop, Cook, John Garland. Ciuarter-maller, John Oufridgc, Armourer, Jofeph Grinifhire, Cook's mate, James' Long, able Seaman, John Martni, ditto, Samuel Hudfon, ditto, William Anderfon, ditto, William Eallwood, ditto, Edward Carpenter, ditto, William Smith, ditto, William Hurvart, ditto, Miles Kimbcr, ditto, Solomon Pollock, ditto, Samuel Rccd, ditto, Thomas Allen, ditto, Robert Shaw, Landfman, Jofeph Bernard, ditto, Jofeph Alhton, ditto, John Lawfon, able Seaman, Thomas Graham, ditto, Tinu- when and Place ivhere difchargeJ, Ufe. June 1797, Loft in H. M. Ship Swift Ditto ditto July 14th, Died at fea on board the Schooner Killed by accident at China on board the Olatton Killed by accident on his palTage from China to England 1798, Died in the hofpital at the Cape of Good Hope 13th June 1797, Difcharged at China to the True Briton, Indiaman 3d Jan. 1798, Difcharged at China to H. M. Ship Sybille 14th June 1797, Diitharged at China to the Carnatic Indiaman 14th June 1767, Ditto ditto ■ Ditto ditto roth Ditto to the Crefcent Packet 10th June 1797, Ditto to the Glatton Indiaman 10th June 1797, Ditto ditto Ditto ditto ' Ditto ditto Ditto ditto ■ Ditto ditto Ditto ditto ■ • Ditto ditto Ditto ditto Ditto ditto Ditto ditto ■ -— Ditto ditto 2lil Run from the Schooner at Macao aift June 1797, Ditto ditto. [ohn COM- 1' 4 [ xvi ] COMPLEMENT OF THE PROVIDENCE. J: Captain, Lieutenants* Maftcr, Doatfwain, Carpenter, Surgeon, Gunner, Matter's Mates, Midfltipmen, Surgeon's Mates, Captain's Clerk, Maftcr at Arms, Corporal, Armourer, Sail-maker, fioatrwain's Mates, Carpenter's ditto, Gunner's ditto. Carpenter's Crew, Cook, Cook's Mate, Quarter-Mafters, Able Seamen, Landfmen, Marittts. Lieutena *« Corporal, Drummer, Privates, AAronomer, Total, I 3 I I I ' I I 3 6 a I I X I I 3 3 2 3 I I 6 47 z I I i6 "4 I lis CON- .^.' CONTENTS. BOOK I. Transactions from the beginning of the Voyage till our first Arrival at Macao in China. CHAP. I. Preparations for the Voyage.— Paflage to the Canary Iflands.—De- parture for Rio Janeiro.— Trinfaftions there.— Cough's Ifland fcen, and its Appearance defcribed. — Arrival at Port Stephen's, on the Coafl of New Holland. — Aftronomical Obfervations. — Port Jackfon.— Remarks on its Produce, Animals, &c.— Aftronomical Obfervations, CHAP. II. Paflage to Otaheite.— Remarks there Arrival at ths Sandwich Iflands.— At Mowee— Its wretched State At Wohahoo Vifit of Tamaahmaah.— Account of the Wars and Ambition of that Chief.— Anchor in Yam Bay, Onehow, CHAP. III. Departure for Nootka Sound.— Search for the Ifland of Donna Maria Lajara.— Maquinee's Vifit to us at Nootka.— Intelligence of Captain Vancouver — Stage raifed on Shore by the Carpenters for repairing b r.igf 2S DN- 'If NJ xviii CONTENTS. the Ship. — Excurfion to Ship Cove. — At Anchor in Juan de Fuca's Inlet. — Sir Francis Drake's Staiicn, 1579. — Arrival at Monterey— Plan adopted for the Voyage, CHAP. IV. Paflage from Montesey to Owyhee.— Arrival at Wohahoo. — At Wy- moa Bay, Atooi. — At Onchow. — Inhuman Murder of two Marines by the Natives of the lad Ifland."— Departure for Japan. Vifitcd by fome Inhabitants of Infu. — Anchor in Volcano Bay, CHAP. V. • Remarks on the Country and Inhabitancs round Volcano Bay,^ Courtefy of the Japanefe. — Defcription of the Harbour of En- dernio. — Obfcrvations on the Natives — their Drefs — Ornaments — Habitations — Food — Boats — Articles of Commerce— Agriculture. — Remarks on the Soil — Trees — Plants — Birds— Fifli — Quadru- peds.—Aftronomical Obfcrvations. — Range along the Coafl; of Infu. — Spanbcrg's Illand, . .' CHAP. VI. PiiiTaee to Mareekan, one of the Kurile Iflanda.— Through the Straits of De Vries. — Company's Land. — Statcn Ifland.— Unfavourable Weather prevented our goirrg through the Straits of Sangaar.— Range the eallern Coaft of Japan. — Bay of Jeddc — Japanefe Boats. — Jatfifco lilands, CHAP. VII. Pafl'nge to the Lieuchieux Iflands. — Off Formofa. — Arrival at the Typav Macao.- Purchafe of a Schooner.— Preparations for the further Profecution of the Voyage.— Nautical Obfcrvations in the Typa, Pajir 49 66 9' 114 138 ,M1 rV i CONTENTS. XIX ■' is* BOOK ir. Transactions during our second Expedition to the North through the Straits of Sangaar, and. on our Return home by the Coast of Corea, and the Yellow Sea, to Madras. CHAP. r. Pjse Delay to the Voyage arifing from the Prevalence of eafterly Wnds Ifland of Lamay.— Off Formofa — Land at the Ifland of Pachu- fan.— Obfcrvations on it — The Ship unfortunately wrecked on a coral Reef, near the Ifland of Typinfan, - kJj CHAP. II. Singular Humanity of the Natives, of Typinfan to us in our diftreffed Situation.— Defcription of their Country, Manners, and Habita- tions.—Groupe of the Madjicocemah Iflands tributary to thofc of Liquieux — Arrival in the Typa. — Difpofal of part of the Crew on board His Majefty's Ship Swift — Departure from China to furvey the Coafts of Tartary and Corea, j 3 e CHAP. III. Pefcadore Iflands — In Napachan Harbour, Great Lieuchieux. De- fcription of the Inhabitants, &c. — Departure from it towards Japan, jQ^ CHAP. IV. Paflage along the fouth and cafliern Coafts of Japan— Wliite Point. Arrival for the fecond Time at Endermo Harbour. Infu. Sufpi- cious Behaviour of the Japancfe fettled there, J33 '■^ I '. XX i '^ CONTENTS, CHAP. V. Off the Town of Matzmai in Infu.— Proceed through the Stcaits of ^^ Sangaar.— Range along the weftern Coaft of Infu. — Peaked Ifland, or Timofliec. — Advance to 52° N. latitude, 257 CHAP. VI. Imprafticability of getting to Sea by the Northward. — Determination of returning. — Remarkable Hazinefs of the Atmofphere, 281 CHAP. VII. Off the Ifland of Tzima, fituated between the Coafts of Corca and Japan. — Arrival at Chofan, on the Corean Coaft.— Dcfcription of ks Harbour — Inhabitants — Soil — Cultivation — Produce, &c.— Anxiety of the Natives for our Departure. — Obfervations for longi- tude, &c., 307 CHAP. vin. Find ourfelves in a Clufter of Iflands. — Vifited by the Natives.— Off the Ifland of Quelpaert.~In the Tellow Sea.— Arrival at Macao.— Conclufi.oi^ 33-* %^\ A V^OY- ^' ft .••*«».#•»—"'«» .«--»•»-- '>.: A . VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY IT- I rO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. .I'r- ■ it BOOK I. Transa<^ions from the Beginning of the Voyage till our first Arrival at Macao in China. CKAP. I. Preparations for the Voyage. — Pajage to the Canary IJJands, -^De- parture for Rio Janeiro. — Trafifadions t/jere.-^Ooug/Zs IJland feen^ and its Appearance defcrtbed. — Arrival at Port Stephen's on the Coajl of New Holland. — Ajlronomical Obfervations.'" Port Jackfon, — Remarks on its Produce^ Animals, ^c<-'AJlrO' nomical Obfcrvations. 1 HE Navy-board recommended his Maiefty's fliip booki. CHAP. I. Providence for the voyage on which I was to be em- ^— .-^" ployed. She had been commanded by Captain Bligh, *^^3' and had lately returned from the Weft Indies after B havinjT ?- !' '• 1 r m BOOK I. »793- 794- A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY having conveyed the bicad-iVuit there from Otahcite. This lliip had been originally intended for the Weil- India trade, and was purchalcd by Government on the (locks, tor the exprefs purpole of bringing the bread-fruit trees from the South Seas, in which fervice llie had been engaged for two years. She was river- iDuilt, of about 4'^0 tons ii\ burthen, and was fnigly flieathed with copper, though I think it would be proper, that all lliips employed in diilant voyages fliould be flieathed with wood, and coppered over the flieathing. The Providence was taken into dock at Deptford for one tide, and thence tranfported to Woolwich, at which yard flie was ordered to be fitted. On the 3d October 179?, I received my ap- pointment to command lier, and the fame day com- miirioned tlie fliip. The fitting lier out detained us at W^oolwich the remainder of the yeai- ; and early in 1794, the fliip being ready» we dropped down to Gravefcnd, as a more convenient place for entering feamen. Here we remained till tlie end of March, Avhen we proceeded to the Nore, faluting Vice-Adniiral Dalrymple, whofe flag was flying on board the Sand- wich. During the month of April we completed our complement with volunteers from the Sandwich ; and having orders to proceed to Spithead, we accordingly 2 . faUed .aitM-rfTk-^^t* -m TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. r'J. 'jji. lailed >vith a convoy of raercliantmen under our pro- tcdion. During the night, in pafling through the Gull Stream, the pilot run the ftiip upon the Brake Sand : we were not able to heave olf till the morning s tide, when, loon after, we anchored in the Downs, the ihip appearing to liave received no damage. V^ice-Adniiral Peyton's flag was flying on board the liCopard, which we fainted ; and in Uie evening, our flii[> and the convoy worked through the Downs to the weilward, with a light wefl^crly wind. In the nitrht the wind drew round to the eafl;ward, and we made all fail at day-light, repeating fignals for the convoy to do the fame. We palfed through the grand fleet lying in Sand-down Bay, under the command of Lord Howe ; and anchored at Spithead, having faluted Admiral Sir Peter Parker, whofe flag was flying on board the Royal William. During the month of May the fliip was docked, but had received no damage in iier pafTage to the Downs: flie continued in every refpea ready for fea ; and the fliip's company, as well as the ofiicers, were paid their wages to the end of July. In this month his Majefty vifited Portfmouth, to view the grand fleet after the adion of the Ifl; of June ; and every captain had the honour of beiiig prefented to him. 1794. u 2 I re- i k .If ril ,1 IS ,f, ■ 4^ BOOK I. 1794. ad. 21II. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY I received my orders, wliicli were lecret, ^vith an additional one to pnt myicW under the eommand of Captain Drury, of liis Majefty's lliip Trulty, and to })rocced to fea with his convoy, then bound lor the Mediterranean ; nor was I to leparate as long as our courles were the fame. We failed from St. Helen's with a fine breeze from the eaftward. After clearing the Channel the wind veered to the N. W. when the Trulty ordered us to proceed to Falmouth. In the night we feparated from the men of war, and reached Falmouth ; when, not feeing the Trufty, we failed for Plymouth Sound, where we found her and the convoy at anchor. Vice- Admiral IVI'Bride's flag was flying on board the Mino- taur, and Rear-Admiral Cotton's flag on board the Cambridge in the harbour. November. During this month, the gales wore ftrong and the weather variable ; and as we Avere anchored in Cawfand J3ay, we could not have joined the convoy, had they gone to fea from the Sound with an eafterly wind : we therefore endeavoured to work into the Sound ; but the fliip milling Itays oft' Red Point, we came to with both bowers all Handing in foul ground, not the length of two cables from the Ihore. In this unpleafant fitu- ation 4 .■«i««-**i— •*».'«*"^ TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. ation we Aveic prevented moving by ftrong eafterly CHAP, winds, till the mailer-attendant, Mr. IJenunings, ■ — '- — brought an anchor lighter to windward of us, and, November. lending the end of a cable on board, we were enabled to licave off in fafcty, and run in between Duke's llland and the Main. 231 We continued in this ftation till the following month, when we run into the Soand. During January 1795, the weather was cold, with frequent gales. Rear- Adniiral Parker, in his Majefty's fliip Raifonable, 179^ January 29th. made the fignai for failing. In tlie night we had a (Irong gale from W. N. AV. February- parted our bcft bower cable, drove on board a tranf- ^ port, fprung the cathead, and damaged the main channels. Moderate weather, tlie next day, enabled us to recover the anchor and fplice the cable. We again moored the ilii[), as there was no i)robability of failing till the wind came to the N. E. ; when the lignal was made ibr vunnooring, and for all oflicers to repaiu on board. The whole fleet was uiider way ; nor could any Avind have been more favourable than this from the North, as it enabled every fliip from Ilamoaze and CatMater 15th. M tH * ' M • i' Cy A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK Catwatcr to proceed to lea, amounting to more than »— ' — • 400 fail, "svbich had been detained cqnjilly with our- Febm?rV ^^'l^cs fuicc Odobcr. As WQ. flood out to fca, we ob- forvcd the grand fleet under tlie command of l^ord llowe waiting for the convoy. i6th. 'Hie wind and weather were favourabU^ ; tlie Li- zard Point at noon bore from us W. hy S. ; our ob- fcrved lat. 50' 13' 30" N. The convoy from Falmouth joined us. /9th. In the evening the grand fleet, confifting of 34 fail of the line and feven frigates, parted company with us. The convoy for Portugal fej:)arated alfo the next morning, with the Trufty and Fly iloop. We con- tinued with the Welt-India convoy, confiiling of the Raifonable, Medufa, Iris, Cormorant, the Dromedary ftore-iliip, and 200 fail of merchant veflels. 2ift. Frefli gales from the S. W. obHged us to reduce our fails, and difperfed the merchant fliips. i 22a. The wind kept increafing, and veered to the N. W. -4th. The gales were ftrong and variable from tlie S. W. : the following day it was calm ; but on the next to that, i i Is ^. '•■'SI TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. that, tlic gale commenced again from the Weft and N. W. Tliis bad weather fcparated hall" the convoy. We i)arted company with Admiral Parker's fleet, faihng M'ith the Iris frigate, Reliance, and Supply. We generally found our Ihip fail as well as the mer- chantmen. With a fine breeze from the eaftward, we purfiied our courfe to the fouth. March lit. 2d. O t, Early in the morning, faw the Canary Iflands ; at noon, the Peak of Teneriffe bore N. 88* .SO' W. Baf- fling winds prevented our anchoring till the morning of the 6th, when we came to oiF Santa Cruz in 35 fathoms ; the Chm'ch bearing Weft, Punta de Nago E. by N. As our flay Avas likely to be fliort, we did not moor. In paying our ref|ieds to the Governor, he made fome trifling excufe for not inviting us to his table ; we liowever met with that, civility, and many othei-s, fiom Mr. Rooney, an Irifliman, who had been fettled here fome years. The contrador, Mr. Cal- loghan, fup^lied us with excellent wine for the fliip*;; company, and beef daily. We aifo took fome live cattle on board. Vegetables were in great plenty : onions and potatoes were the moft falutary and ufeful for Stl,. 8 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK for fca-riorc. The foil of the country, as far as I s^^'r-m^ could percrivc, is rocky, very fcarcc, am! covered with March. Honcs ; yct v(\getal)ics grow here with a confiderablc degree of vigcnir anil luxuriancy* principally arifing from the fertile (juality of the volcanic mould. Frelli water is good here, and may be procured in great quantities for Ihippiiig. lianding is often difficult, on account of the furf that breaks on the fliore. Some iQW days before we made this iiland, the tlying-fifli firil appeared. Owing to tiie very heavy lurf, there was little communication with the Ihore. Sih The Iris and her convoy failed. ■1.4 13th. i6tli. aift. We failed from TeneritVe with light airs from the 8. W. quarter, balHing at times in every diret^lion ; nor did we lofe fight of the Peak till the lOith, when at noon the wind veered to the northward, and con- tinued a Heady breeze. Tiie Reliance and Supply were our infcparablc comi)anions. The iiland of Goniera bore from N. 20° E. to N. ikf E., antl the iiland of Ferro N. 50° AV. diltant 10 or 12 leagues. In the forenoon we made St. Anthony, one of the Ca{)e de Verd lilands : at noon the fouth-welt point bore S. 8° E. five or fix leagues. Its lat. 17° O' 46" N. long. .^* .'*i»to-*wi— •"t*-"-^*'- TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. long. 25° 16' 26" W. The ftcady frelli trade-wind foon carried us out of light of this ifland, and we purfued a S. S. E. courfe. 9 CHAP. I. »795- March. Died Samuel Redriffc, a fine young lad of 18 years 2;tlj. of age : a fever of only three days' continuance was the caufe of his death. 29th. Sultry weather. The wind variable from N. to N. W. Frequent calms impeded our progrefs : at in- tervals the fqualls were heavy, with thunder, light- ning, and rain. We croffed the equator with gentle breezes from April 8th. the S. E. The trade-wind became frcfli and fteady ; our courfe x itli. S. S. W. a very good one. Wind more eafterly, and continued E. S. E. when t(di. to fouthward of 10° S. latitude. Made the ifland of Trinidad ; at noon it bore of us S. 41° E. Obferved lat. of this ifland 21* 21'41'' S. long. 29° 29' E. of Greenwich. ' \ir We loft fight of the land in the afternoon ; next day had light airs from the N. E. The wind foon veered c to 22d. 23d. PR 10 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY LOOK to the EalK and became flcady. As we purpofed \o v^^,' > reach Kio Jaiu'iro, we llecied more to the weftward, Aprii%".h. and ill hit. of 23° S. lliaped our courfe due Weft, in I'eurch of an illand faid to lie in that parallel. May ift. Variable winds in all direaions. At day-light five rt range ihips were difcoveied : they proved to be Brazil merchantmen bound to Lilbon, and had left Rio Janeiro five davs before. ad. Early this morning the land was feen, and at noon Cape Frio bore N. by W. eight or nine leagues ; at the fame time, we founded in 70 fathoms tine fand. By our obfervations we place this Cape in the lat. of 22° 59' 41" S. long. 41' 53' 12" K- i'" 5th. The variablenefs of the weather prevented our reaching the entrance of Rio Janeiro harbour before this day, when we came to an anchor in 28 fathoms fandy bottom. Round Ilhmd S. 88° W. ; Sugar-loaf Hill N. 5.5° W. ; extremes of Brazil coaft from N. C4' E. to S. 6'4° E. The weather was now calm. I ,U 6th. In the afternoon a pilot came off, and we got under weigh; but calm weather obhged us to anchor in the entrance of the harbour. The next day we ^ were? tr ■ M)tti.>tf^''tM ■'•-J. •»-- TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. \] were more fortunate, coininf; to an anclior within the chap. illiiiul of Col)ras in 5f fathoms. There were l.yini; ^ — -^ heie a rortuguexi? frigate, and levoral merchant lliips m.,-. ol' (lillerent nations. 'I'iie Ueiiance, Captain Hunter, lahited us coming in, which we returned with an equal number of guns. "We remained at Rio Janeiro till this day, having employed ourfeivos in overhauling the rigging, caulk- ing the Ihip, and preparing for fea in every other refpert. The fliip's crew were conilantly fupplicd with freih j>rovi(ions ; and we purchafed at a reafon- able rate wine, rum, and fugar. In the procuring of thofe articles we had every indulgence we could Willi for ; but Ave had alfo the mortification to be watched by guard-boats day and night ; nor could any officer land unlefs he was attended by a Portugueze officer of equal rank. Thefe reftri.,'jy» ■■■•-— ^- "V. \ TO THE NORTH PACIHC OCEAN. At H paft noon, we cUfcovered Cough's Illand bear- insr Eaft five or fix miles. Our obfen'ation at noon made the lat. 40° 19' S., which was indifferent. The gale increafed ; yet being defirous of making further remarks upon the illand, at If paft 3 wc brought to the wind under the lee of it, bearing from us N. N. W. The fea was irregular and confufed ; during the niglit the gale fubfided ; our foundings were at 155 fathoms. No obfcrvation at noon.. 13 Tlve gale fi-om the Weft returned with redoubled CHAP, violence ; ami as the fliip had not fufficient velocity through the water to efcape the fea, we again brought to under a mizen ftay-fail. In the evening the weather became more moderate, and we bore away. >795- June. lOtii. The following day we were equally unlucky, the weather being rainy and hazy ; and as there was no chance of its clearing, we reCunied our courle to the ealtward. The breezes were llrong at N. N. W. and the rain conftant. Ciough's Ifland is high and much broken, not more than two or three miles in circumference or extent. We could not perceive the leali iign of vegetation : but as the weather pi-evented landing, \\v could not make the remarks we wiflied, and our idea of its circuit is even doubtful. By our time- nth. m- 14 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK time-pieces wc place it in the lat. 40° 19' S. and ^ong. *— -N— *- 9° 27' ^V^ ; which may err two or three miles, as the ylmc. horizon was very contufecL 1 :!th. Strong breezes from the N. N. W. We fteered to the Eall, preferring nearly the parallel of lat. 41° 30^8. although we could not get an obfervation more than once in three days. The weather became more mode- rate, with the wind variable to the S. W, after we got into call longitude. T6th. The wind again returned to its old quarter with increafing violence : in reefing the main-topfail, Hugh MacDonald fell ofl' the yard upon the deck, and wns moft unfortunately killed on the fpot. About this time we had the firft appearance of the albatrofs, and the beautiful bird called the pintado or Cape pigeon; alio great numbers of fea-gulls, llieerwaters, &c. July ift. The breeze was variable at Eall and S. E., with foggy weather. Several feals came about the Ihip, and we 7tli. paifed fome rock- weed. A very fevere gale from the N. and N. W. attacked us; and in the forenoon, to avoid the fea, we furled the forelail, and brought the Ihip to the wind under a llorm ftayfiiil, it blowing tremendoully hard from the Ts. W. quarter, and raining ■A m m 7^ '795- July I4tli. 19th. TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. ' 15 raining violently. In the night we carried away the CHAP, tiller. Wind veered to the Weft : fqually and cold. Light breezes and cloudy weather induced us to get up the top-gallant mafts and yards ; and we fet all ourfmall fails, which had been of very little ufe during this turbulent pafl'age. Wind at S. S. E. incrcafed to a ftrong gale : lliip was under ftorni flayfails ; fqualls, always attended with rain. 28th. Frefli breezes and cloudy weather; lat. 44° 18' S. Auguftid. At 1 P. M. we faw Van Diemen's land generally 3,1. covered with fnow ; it bore N. by E., the wind at N. N. E. : at noon the extremes bore from N. 5" W. to 62° W. ; lat. 44° .y S. In the evening the land bore from N. 54° W. to 71° W.; and the wind remaining at North prevented us feeing any more of it, as we had only to keep our wind to the eaftward. We fteered N. N. W., intend- ing to make Furneaux Iflc, and explore the unknown fpace between it and Cape Howe, if the wind permitted. Strong 4th. 6th. '' ,1 IG BOOK I. «795- Auguft I2tli. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Strong gales from the Eaft ; by which we continued our courfe to the North, not having been able to make Furneaux's Ifland. At funfet we faw the land, and altered our courfe to N. N. E. in confequence ; the next morning we had the mortification to find ourfelves deceived, as we had clear weather, and no- thing to prove that we were near the coaft of New Hol- land : lat. 34° jO- S. '3th. xhe wind from the N. W. blew dired from the land. We were to the North of Port Jackfon. r4th. At day-light made the land to the N. AV. of us ; at , noon we had clear fine weather, and Cape Ilawke bore N. 88" W. The extremes of coaft from S. 22' 30' W. to N. 2° E. Obferved lat. 32° 1 1' S. 15th. 18th. We kept plying to the windward ; at noon Cape Hawke bore N. 25" W. lllands off Port Stephens S. 71°W. Lat. 32° 38' S. The wind ftill remaining fixed in the S. W. quarter, I found there was no chance of beating to the foutli- ward : I therefore determined to enter tlie port which was in our powor. We euteretl in fafety Port Ste- phens, and anchored in 5i fathoms fandy bottom. Points .ii ^f TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. Points of entrance were open from S. 12° E. to 85° E. We lieadied the fljip with the ftreani anchor, and fent the boats in fearch of water. ^Ve remained here one week, and completed our watering from a lake on the northern ihore with great facihty. During our ftay, we had frequent intercourfe with the natives. They were the fame race of people as thofe defcribcd to in- habit Port Jackibn and Van Diemen's land. They were inoffenfive, quiet, and docile ; and whenever we ap- proached tbem, removed their women and children. We found here refiding with the natives four Englilh- men, who had deferted in a boat from Port Jackfon five years before. Five came originally, but one had died ; thofe that remained were miferable half-ftarved objeds, depending on the hofpitality of the natives for their fubfiftence, who occafionally fupplied them with a part of their provifions, at all times in no great abundance with the inhabitants. Notwithftanding the Avretched ftate in which they exifted, the man who had enticed them to defert refufed to come on board. We colleded fome articles to leave with him to make his fituation more comfortable ; but in the meanwhile, being aflured he fhould be well treated, and probably not fuft(M for his former conduct, he agreed to come off with tlie (jlhers. One or two of thefe men were married, and left their wives and children with little P regret. 17 Auguft. V ■ m m 18 h BOOK I. '795- Auguil. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ^ regret. The foil round Port Stephens is compofed chiefly of fand and decayed vegetables, though in tlic fwamps it is rather of a better kind ; f)ut upon the uholc the nature of the place is very barren, and unfit for any great degree of cultivation. The fea pro- duces a good variety of fifh; fucli as mullet, toad-fifli, a kind of torpedo, flounders, «Scc. In the woods, were feveral fpeties of beautiful paroquets ; and a fmall bird t)f a brown plumage, fomcwhat refcmbling the Java fparrow. The quadrupeds that we faw were the kan- garoo, dogs, &c. On the beach we oblisrved a variety of curioufly marked flielU; fuch as the buccinum or whelk, limpets, mufcles, oyfters, and beautiful fpeci- mens of the Venus ftiell. The natives live chiefly upon iifli, fern roots, dog's flelh ; and fliould a dead whale happen to drift upon the fliore, it forms a moft deli- cious repafl; for them. The aftronomer made the following obfervations on fliore at the watering place abreaft of the ftiip : I Lat. by mean of 4 merid. alt. of the O Long, by mean 4 time-keepers Long, by mean 1 2 fets of lunar dtftances Long, by mean difF. of long, between this place and Port Jackfon, taking the longitude of Port Jackfon at 151" 10' 3" E. that being the mean \- between Sign. Mallefpina and Mr. Crofley, and the diff. by the 4 watches in long, at 33° 46'W.. 32° 41' 33" S. 151" 44' 44" E. 152° 4' 47" 151° 43' AT At t ih*<**l— •^•■••''■^ TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 19 At noon we lioifted in the boats, and made fail to the Ibuthward with the wind eafterly. Port Stephens l)Oje N. 7(i' W. and the extremes of land N. 24° E. to S. 75° W. : lat. ;)'2° 51' S. At nH(hiio;ht we tacked to tlio nortliward till daylight, when wm again fleered to the Sonth and S. S. W. as the wind permitted. Wc iiad 70 fathoms water: the forenoon was hazy, the weather rainy, and wind increahng, with every profpedl of a gale from the S. E. which blew dircdtly upon the land. AVe carried all fail to fecure our port before dark. At noon the fignal-houfe on the South head of Port Jaekfon haibour bore S.32° W., and we weathered the North head half a mile by carrying a prefs of fail; i paft noon we were in the entrance of the harbour, and at 1 P. M. in running up, a pilot came on board. In tlie afternoon we moored with our liower cables in Sydney Cove, and flruck yards and topmafts. In the night, the gale (as predi(!:led) in- ciealed to a perfed-t hunicane, and continued the next day Avith extreme violence ; nor could we fend a boat on lliore. We could not be too thankful for our fafety: for had we remained at fea, moft probably the fliip never would have cleared the land; as at no time from our run here, were we more than two leagues from the coaft. AVe found Major Paterfon, com- manding the New South Wales corjjs, adingas gover- C H A P. I. 1795- Augud 1 6th. jyth. J) o nor; eo BOOK I. «79S- A,ugu(l. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY nor; who recciv'ed us in the niofl weh*ome manner, llicuing us every rivihty and attention in his power. Iiulocil I in particuihir cannot (ufficicntly cxprefs my gratitude lor tlie hofpitality ihown to me both by Major Paterlbn and his lady during our long Hay liere. We immediately oommcncGd refitting the (liip, caulking her within and without, together with overhauling the rigging, &c., and landed tents at Cattle Point for the aftronomer to afcertain the rates of the time-pieces. The hauling tlie feine was con- tinually in ufe for fupplying the (hip's company with filh ; and by order of Major Paterfon, we daily and amply received vegetables for our people by fending a boat to Garden Idand. September Governor Hunter anived with his fliips, having been 97 days from Rio dc Janeiro. 1 2th. We fainted his excellency Governor Hunter with 13 guns, on reading his commiffion that appointed him Captain General of New South Wales, &c. &c. Oaober 6th. The fliip being ready for fea we unmoored and Ihifted our birth to the Fair Way, cheering the Re- liance as we left the Cove. ' ,m Wp i'« I .!« m ',' V"' t TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. We took our final leave of Port Jackfoii in the morning: at noon the I'outh heatl of Broken Bay horc N. 34' W., lat. t^r/ 50' S. ; North head, Port Jack- ion, S. 83" W. During our Way we entered feveral cTQod fcanien from merchant iliips and the colony to complete our complement : our Ihip's company was iii |>virfeft health. We abftained from following the example of other fliips that have touched at this colo- ny, by not taking away any of the convitfts : a practice very general in merchant Ihips, which has tended to corrupt the morals of the South Sea illanders ; for in the vovages of the traders to the north-weft coaft of America, thefe men have generally deferted by the way, flopping either at the Society or Sandwich Ifles. The foil round Port Jackfon is light and Tandy generally ; though, in the more inland parts of the country, it is much better, and produces good crops of corn and other vegetables. Tropical fruits do not anfwer well here, it being too cold in the winter feafon ; fuch as have arrived from the Cape grow luxuriantly. The bread-fruit and cocoa-nut have lately been brought here, but did not fucceed. Plantains and the fugar-canc have done better, but in all probability will never arrive to any great degree of perfe795- October. L 't'^} A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY and currants, a grcatrr vuriety ol'apples, pears, plums, limes, peaches, &c. Experiments might alfo be made of the tarro root, yams, and 1 weet potatoes. Annual and [)ercnnial llowers are it ill deliderata here. The birds u(* this place arc of ieveral kinds ; ilich as the black and white cockatoo, variety of j)iU'o(piets, crows, i^ulls, fliai>;s, Sic. 'I'lio emu is a bird belongino* to the genus of the caU(>\vary, grows to a large lize, and like the rell of tlic genus is unable to fly. Quadrupeds arc chietiy I he kangaroo of two kinds, opolTums, Hying fquirre^;, mice, kangaroo rats, and a fpecies of ferret. Reptiles arc fnakes, fome of a large fize, guianoes, lizards, frogs, &c. The bays are well-ftored with lifli ; fuch as falmon, eels, mullet, the leather jacket, flounders, &C. The iliores contain oyfters, mufcles, conchs, and other fliell- fifli. Sharks are fometimes caught here of a large fize, which produce the only oil the people have to ufe. i\ I The following aftronomical obfervations were made on fliore at Cattle Point ; one of thofe forming Sydney Cove, and where the Spaniards had before fixed their obiervatorv ; Lat. I 4. ¥ TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 23 Lit. by mean of mcrid, alt. of the O Long, from mean of 90 fets 45° to the Eaft and 45° to the Weft of 5 Variations by compafs 33° 5»' 47fS. CHAP. 9' Eaft. J79S- Odober. TIic flag-ftaff on tlie South head bearing by compaft N. 73° 4j' E. i diilant feven miles. . ''I . • ; Ti A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK I. Odobcr I4di. CHAP. n. Pajfiigc to Otahcite. — Remarks there. — Arrival at the Siandwich IJlands — at Mowee, — /// wretched State. — At Wohakoo. — Vifit of Tamaabmaab. — Account of the Wiin and Ambition of that Chief. '-'Anchor in 1 'am Day. — Oncbow. W E dire(^led our courft^ to the North of New Zca-r land, intending to touch at Otalieitc in our route to Nootka Sound. At 3 P. M. the kind extended from N. W. I Weft to Weft, and we foon after loft fight of the coaft. • * lyth. In lat. 33" 10' S. and long. 169° E. the S. W. wind changed to a gale from the N. E. quarter. It was of no continuance ; for on the following day it veered to N. W., and we again purfued our eaftern courfe. In 32° 51' S. and 175° E. the winds were northerly, with moderate weather, continuing at N. E. till this 24th. day, when the wind again veered to the N. W. with a ftrong breeze. Wind A>.. ^ lO Tin: NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. Wind now ultrrcd to the N. N. E. ; our lat. .li" I.V cH Ap. S. :inri loiifT. IMf)°;3ri'K. hy the time-piece agroring -^ with our accounted longitude. oaobcv aSth. Wc Ihiod to the Northward, as th(^ wind became :^oth. more callnly ; hit. 3.)° 4.5' S. and h)ng. \()2° :3()' K. It bh'w To l,ard as to ohhgc us to lay to under tlie Novembn main-fail. The gaU' moth-rated : we wore fliip at ^i' noon ami ItootI to the S. E. in hit. .'.3'r 4(i' and 192' 25 lonir. In .W'3.3' S. and 197° o3' E. we Hood to the S. E., having had no obfervations fmee tlie 9th4br the hit. ; we found ourielves V 30' further north tlian wc cx- l)eaed, in which diredion only wc had experienced any cmrcnt : bar. 7° 4.9' E. In the night we flood to the Northward ; lat. 31° 27' S. and long. 197° 27' E, The wind grew more favourable for our courfe, and on this day at noon, in the lat. of 28° 33' S. and long, by watch 201° 27' E., wc obferved diftances o and "l jnaking the longitude agree nearly with the watch. 13th. 1 8th. lyth. At 2 hours 40 minutes after midnight wc made the 25111. illand of Ohetorea bearing N. E. Cf N., which as it n' as m our courfe we flood off for two hoi irs, an un d agj lac kin ii' ■i^-'f- \> L>6" A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY uooK uicklng inatlo Tail towiircls it. At noon it horo from . I; , js ;j ['. to S. '3" W. Our latitude was indillciont ; it V '"'-^V nruli' '^'^-^ ()■ .VV S. and long. 'iOo' 'SS 48" J!. November, ui-''^'*' - - •■ o iSih. Frelh breezes from the Eailward brought us in light of the i'hmd of Otaheitc, bearing to the N. N. E. At n A.:M. we taeked tliij), Eaft-point of the kind bear- inan cattle, as far as I could learn, have multijjhed at Otaheite excepting goats. The natives confuler dogs and cats as proper to be eaten. At 4 P.M. Poiiil Wnus bore S. 53° E. 12 miles ; at 5 A. M. we faw the illand of Tethwroa bearing j: 'J from \k 28 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK iVoiii S. 74° E. to S. 60" E. four or t\\'c loaguos ; llu* .. — * — body of Otahcite idaiid, S. '20° E. ; iind the iilancl of December. Eiiueo, S. 4° E. 'I'lio \\u\d continued moderate from ^?N'''rthc t^^c X. E. ([luirtcr, and at noon we had no fight of A:\VA\- V 7' ^ • At I paft 4, P. M. N° 1. made the h)ng. CIO' 1'2' Oi . when l\)uit A'enus bore S. ;VJ' E. V2 or !;> miles ; which will make its longitudes 'Jl(r.'3'i' E., tlie iiune as by Captain Cooke. On the 'J8th it agreed within 'S of the longitude of Ohitepeha Bay, the day after wc made tlie iiland, the elaj)fed time being only 12 days : ol' courfe avo h.ad no reafoti to fuppole it had altered its rate fince our leaving Port Jackfon, and made us the lefs regret that the allronomer could make no ob- fervations on Point Venus, where he was [)revcnted by the tumbling motion of the quicklilver, caufed by the Itriking of the furf which atieeted the point of land whore his tent was raifed. 1 6th t Weather moderate, with High* fqualls at intervals. At I pait 9 we faw an iiland upon our weather-beam, bearing N. 78' E. ; at | pait 11 we tacked towards it, and it bore from us at noon E. to E. 19' S., juft in light from the main-top. 1 elUmated its diltance to be 5 or (i leagues The foutheni extremity was the highell TO HIE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 29 liigheft [)ait, covered with trees, iiioft probably eocoa- CHAP. II. luit tVoiii their appearance, as they flood in detached — ^'— -< rkmips along the lliore. Thefe bearings will place it. December, in the latitude of f/ 5?' S. and long. 209° 3.5' E. ; "^^ihA^l^. but it Ihould be recollected, tliat thev were taken by N" 3- 4° 33 Adams 5 "48 L37' j u: tended by a ([iiadraut. ' ^ j The illand bore tVom E. i S. to S. E. by E. 2" l\. about five leagues ; it appeared to be low, and covered with trees, and if I am right in its eflimated diftance, its length will be about five miles in a north and fouth dlrec^tion. 1 named it Carolina Uland in compliment to the daughter of Sir V. Ste])hens of the Ad- miralty. , 17 th We had a fwell from the N. E. which Avas not experienced before, and which I attributed to the low iilands that extend in a parallel towards the Marquefas. The Pacific Ocean is covered in fome parts with low iilands, and as the wind blows from them it caules the water to be fmooth, for when there IS no impediment of land the fwell is obferved to in- creale according to the wind. 1 8th \y c I .30 BOOK I. '795- Deconibor. iptli. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY AVc liad iVvcral birds aljoiil us tliis day, jiarticulaily lioohics. r>y the carolciinclk of my fervant the haro- nictor uas rciulcMt'd iilcU'l's this niorning, as unluckily lie had broke the silai's tube, a mistortuiie we could not reined V. 24tll. Variations.' N'^ 3, 5" 29' Walkcr6 3K' Iiifpccl. 5^ JiiUMiy irt, I 790. Strong trade wind anil veiv pleafant Avealhcr, which continued till the lit January, \79^y when we came oil" the .Sandwich Illands. We experienced Itrong breexes and fqually weather, with a rw(^ll Ironi the Ealh At 2 A. M. mc law the land diltiiuily. On approachins; the weitcrn fide of Owyhee, we loll the trade wind, and the wea- tlier Inx^anic variable with light airs in every direc- tion. Calm and cloud v M'cather continued durino' the eveninir, enablini; feveral canoes tVom the llior<^ to furnilli us with pigs and vegetables. At 10 1*. ^Nf. a light air fprung up from the land : we fteered along the fliore till dny-light, experiencing a ftrong current to the N. W. At 7 o'clock we faw a fail in tiie N. W. (piarter. 'J'he natives informed us it was an Eiiiililb TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 31 Kngliih brig which had failed from tlie bay in the CHAP. night. Light and variable airs prevented our reaching the bay ; I therefore difpatched an oilicer in the pinnace tt) gain information refpeding Captain \'ancouver, as we untlerilood tliere was an American veilel which could aive us intelli2;enee of him. The pinnace on her return confirmed what we liad before heard, that Captain Vancouver with the Difeovery and Cliatham had failed for England. This intelligence was procured from the Englilh brig, who reported that they failed from Valparaifo in July or Augull 179.) for England, by the way of Cape Horn. We ftood to the S. S. W. all night, and at 7 A. ^i. drifted to the N. W. 1796. January Notwitliftanding we had run in for the land 5 leagues by the log, we did not feem to have approached it, and our diftance prevented any communication. Light airs and calms alternaiely prevented us from reaching the Ihorc till the 8th. The wind varied to the North, and with the affiftance of boats we ancliored in the bay. Here an American brig, tlie Lady Walhington, fainted us with leven guns, 4th. 8th. ■l>t 1;^ a|iitf^ 'i- ■ 32 January A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BO^OK guns, wlii(!li wo returned with five. Our n»ip was iurtantly iunoundecl with cnnoes filled with women, fruit, and vegetables. In the afternoon we niooreci with tiic llream-anehor in 18 lathonis, the points forming Karakaakooa bay bore from S. 7° W\ to W. 3° N. : offdiore 150 fathoms. nth. Our tent was pitched in a field adjoinmgthe Jilorai, for the aftrononicr to afcertain the rates of the wjitehcs. Lieutenant Young of the Marines, with a corporal and feven privates commanded the party for their protcdion The groimd being taboo'd, no perfoiis were permitted to come within the limits, l)efides the prieils of the Morai : a more retired fituation lx>r the purpofe could not have been found. Since we croiVed the equator, the (liip had made from two to four inches water per hour, we therefore took this opportunity of finding out the caufe, by unftowing the holds and heeling the fliip, Sec; all our elTorts however proved unfuccefsful. 'J'he bread room was alfo cleared, that the weevils mi^rht be deftroyed by fire, and we were mortified that this could only be cffedled in fome flight de- gree. M' e TO THE NORTH PACIHC OCEAN. S3 We fired a falutc in honour of her Majefty's birth- CHAP. (lay. The weather became more favourable for the ' — ^ aihonomer's obfervations, and on the 20th he got janu^fy. equal altitudes for the firft time. From the 26th to the 3111 the weather prevented any obfervations : on the evening of that day he had coiTefponding alti- tudes. The tents were immediately llruck, and with the afVillance of double canoes (for our boats could not land) we got every thing from the lliore, and failed from the bay at 4 A.M. with the land-wind. During our anchorage in this bay for three weeks, we experienced conilant land-winds during the night, which gradually died away by 8 A.M.; and during the iVdy very light airs and breezes prevailed from the fea. Tiie furf feldoni permitted our own boats to land, which put us to no great inconvenience, as the natives readily oflered their canoes, which were fat'ei' conveyance*. 1 had every reafon to be fatisfied with our reception, and the general behaviour of the natives. No theft of confequcnce was committed, nor any interruption given- to our purfuits. Though nearly the whole of the fliip's company were at diflcrent times on ihore, yet they were never infulted, but ticatiil with uniform good-will and kindnefs. Auiple fupplies of hogs ibr our daily confumption were fent to us from Ta-maali-maah, by the influence I a Bri- 34 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK 1. 1 796. January. '!i : a Britilli fcuDian imd over liiin. Tliis ninn (wlK^fir naiuc was .John "S'ouii<») hud been ivlulcut in llic illaiul for fix years. '1 amaalunaali, witli all his chiefs, and lixtccn thoufaiul men, had hcon ahfcnt on an e\j)edition agaiiill the iilands to the h'cward, all of which he had eojujucred hut Alooi. ^\e could not therefore buy any hogs, as thele chiefs had taboo'd all their pro[)erty. A blind chief, whofe name was ^lahoa, carried on the executive power of the Itatc luider the fuperint(Mi(lance of N'onng, and condne'ted hindelf with every attention to our wants. The priefls at the Moral were alfo particularly kind to the gentlemen Itationed tliere, and the j)eoj)le in general fpoke very highly of Captain Vancouver. I'rom the good impreiVion his conducl made upon them, and tlie favourabU^ fenliinents inculcated by FiUropeans Avho have or now do live here, I am led to believe that any veilei may now touch at this itland in fafety, and be amjily fujiplied with refrelli- nients ; as every article of European manufaOturc is confiderably fiillen in value. The cattl(> left here by C'a])tain Vancouver had bred and were in excellent order : it is jivobable they Avill ftock the ifland, as a taboo is placed upon them for ten years. The goats multiply prodigiouily ; T added a male and female to their nunvber, leaving them under the care of Young, witli lO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN 35 "ii>»*- ,.-«»'•--- With a l)rccd of gcefe and ducks: the tirll lioiiicnant CHAP, alio fpaird thcni his i)iiTeons. Some gra])C-vmes « — — - iVom Port Jacklon and vegetable feeds \vere planted January. and foNvn durinii; our Hay. Pumpkins and melons were in no <>ieat plcnly. tliougli Ave had excellent cahhages weighing near 2 lbs. They had been culti- vated at fome diliance, and wae brought as a prefent. The tliermomeler on board the iliip varied from 74" to 78" ; at the tents on iliore it was irom 79° to ^>(i^ On the 'JOth January, No. 1. made the longitude of Karakakooa 'J03' 4()' 45", which differs only 11' from the true longitude, as fettled by Ca[)tain Khig and ISlr. J^ayley ; an error only of 11' in 108 days, being the time fnice her rate was fettled by Mr. Crofley at Port Jackfon. m On the 'M(\ January at noon, N° 1. was flow for mean time at Karakakooa Bay 14 h. 31, 29, 19, and lofing () ..394 per day on mean time. The variation on board fliip, mean of 3 compafles, 8' 15' E. Do. on fliore at the tents, by Adam's large do N'' I, 1 203= 47' 4" Pocket 2, 1 203° 48' 19" Box A, 5^ ^ 199° 36' 42" Box E, 48, J 204^ 44' 3 6" J li'E. Eaft by time-keepers. Obfervations by the aftronomer. F 2 The 36 BOOK I. 1796. January. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY The above account will ihcw what the (Uflerenl watches made the lonu;itiuU3 ot" the liav, l)V the rate that was given at Port Jacklon. Arnold's box time- piece kt.'cps fo uncertain a rate as to render it ulelefs. r/^1 Long, cf Bay 203° 57' 45' E. by King and Bayley. Lat. of K.irakako(,);i li.iy, mean of 6 mcrid. alt. of fun, 19° 28' 9". 5 N. Mean of 13 diftanccs of Aldebaran wcfl of moon, 204" 27' 30" E. February I a. With a hsiht wind from tlic hind we run out of tlie Bay, leaving the American lliip at anchor. By 8 A. M. it was calm, and we experienced a curRmt fet- tino- us to the N. W. At noon we made the latitude 19° 31' N. ; when the nortli point of Karakakooa Bay bore S. 7-° K- five or fi\ miles. ^,j. Variable winds prevented our reaching; the S. AV. part of Mowee before funfet, when Ave came to anchor off the village of Bahina, in 20 fathoms fandy bottom, diftant from the iliorc about a mile. As this place feemed a favourable one for procu- ring fruits and vt^getables, we remained here till the (jth, having moderate and light winds, with a flrong current fetting to the N. W. The village extends two miles along the fliorc. Oft" the weftern point is a fmall reef in the direction of the village, which aftbrds a landinir TO THE NORTH PACIHC OCEAN. 57 4' ■•¥^ Si laiulinjr for boats or canoes within it. At euch end CHAP. , , , ^ II. is an excellent Itrcani ot water ; hut that to the well ^— -— — * is the moll convenient for Hups, as they can anchor February, to the Well of it in a line bay with clear ground, at f) fathoms clofe in. Our cxcurfions on Ihore A\ere frctjuent, and the natives civil. The cultivation was excellent; and the extent of ground made ufe of for that purpofe reminded us of the fccnery of our native country. There were the various j)rodu(?lions of Tarro, fweet potatoes, melons, fugar-canes, gourds, and pump- kins, aniidll groves of the bread-fruit trees and coroa- mits, which univerfally afforded us lliady walking. As this village was the refidcnce of a Chief, fince (lead, it had been entirely deltroyed on the arri- val of Tamaahmaah, and prefented a fpec^acle of wretched hovels mIucIi Hieltered the inhabitants, Avho occafionally lived there, till the conqueror had made a dilhibution of the ifland among his followers. No hogs M ere to be fcen ; and our fuj)plies were in all lefpet^ts inferior to our exi)edations. The anchorage in the bay, abrcafl of the river, is fiom 10 to 7 fa- thoms, in a clear fandy bottom : and fliips may water here with great convenience. The ground is fo clear, that it may be feen in '20 fathoms ; and there are fevcral (\)ots within the reefs well adapted for hauling the feine. J lliould, from its local advantages, pre- fer : I r>0 .JO BOOK 1. 1796. February. A VOYACE OF DISCOVERY Cvv this nj\c1u)iat;r to ;inv oIIkm' in the Sandwirli llluiuls. At (l;iy-liL!;lil uc u«)t muicr \\,\\, v.\\U a light air from the hind ; l)v 10 A. M. wc wrnr in the [nlVaac hctwcMMi Moiotoi aiul Mowrr ; and } pall 10, \vr nitl the UvoiiLi; tra(h'-\vind Irttinu; in from the Kail. A) iU)on \\r had a lu Ih gale and I'lrar wrathcr, when \\\c Avcll poujt nf Morotoi l)oiv N. 74° 10' ton or twchr miles. 7th. At 'J o'clock IV M. wc palTod tlic weft ]>oint ot INlorotoi, and fleered \\ . In N". for Woliahoo. At .'> V. IM. we were ahreaii of the call point of that illand . and at { pail (> came to an anchor m \Vhytetee l^v. 'raniaahmaah lent olV to know if lie Ihould lire Ins i;reat j^nns in hononr ol" onr arrival ; but I adviled him to fave his powder. In the morninij; he paid iis a vilit, attended by all his chiefs, drelled lor the oc- cafion in cloaks and helmet caps. Ho himfelf wore European clothes, with a beantiful cloak eompofcd of yellow feathers, which nearly covered him. He made me a prefent of one of his drelVes, and liberally offered fupplies of provifion and water : neither would he troid)le us to fend our boats, but made ule of his own canoes for the purpofc. Wc received from him twenty •^ ro IIIE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. S9 twt'niy Ik 'US, !»>»< vcjTchihlcs we could no! procure onie CQco:i-nuts ; hut roots and CHAP. III the inoniiutj uc got under uny, iirid came to an anchor ahicidl of a Ihiall harbour called lair ilavcn, in 1() i'athonis fliiuly bottom. As my only motive for anelioriii'i' here was to niake a (k<.'tch of the hai'bour, Ave emi)loy(>(l the b()at^ in that I'erviee Ibr three days. It uas diCcovered by a Mr. 15rown, commander of the. merchant lliip lUitlcirworlh, in l?fM. On tlu^ lH of January 17!^'>, he laid at anchor in this harbour, v.illi the merchant velVels, named the Jaekall antl Princu J.ee r>oo, which were under his direction: the 15ut- terlworth had been j)revioully lent liome. Thele veilels were Jell in a defencclers Hate, as the crews were on ihore iUlting hogs, tScc. ; and Mr. llrown im- plicitly coididcd in the natives, becaufe he relied on iheir gratitutle to him tor his atlilling them in their wars. The iiati\es were fully aware of tlie unpro- tedcd Hate of the velVels, and boarded them with numerous canoes. Tliey killed the comnianders, Pirown and Cortloii, wounded feveral, and took pof- feifion ot the Ihips. 'I'hey then took them out of this harbour into VVhytctec bay, where the remaining part of the crews that were on ihore furprifed the natives who liad taken poilbnion of the vcflels, drove them overboard, '7'A February. till'.. I m m 40 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK overljoanl, ami regained the fliips, wliich then failed — '-^^ for China. INIany reafons have l)een given for this FcbJuarv. unliappv event ; hnt tlie i)nneipals concerned in the deed havini;- fincc lofi tlieir Hves, there is no afcertain- inji the truth of it. Tlic harbour, though of fniall extent, is fafe and convenient, witli 5 fathoms fandy bottom within tlic ipits. Jt is formed by an opening throitdi the reefs, Avitli a clear channel, in a N. N. E. direction. Tlu! wind generally blows frelli out of the harbour, rendering it necefl'ary to warp in, as there is not room for working. A fme llream of ireOi water empties itfelf at the head. It bears S. .57° K. fi'om WhvtC^tee bluif fjve or fix miles. i * ■ [ : j^.l,. Havino- completed taking in our water, we got under way, partinf the natives was miferable, as ihev were nearlv llarviuij ; and, as an additional grievance, univerfully infeOted with tiu* itch. No cultivation was to hv. iWn on iliore ; and, conf(Miuently, little profpe(''t of their I'uture fubfiftcnce. The attention of Ta-maah-maah was en- tirely engroired by the veflel which the Knglilh car- penters were conftruciiing fu;- him. She was juft 7 planking ■. Hi TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 41 >'^ ■4 planking in the harbour as \vc failed, and was about CHAP. 40 tons burthen. In this vellel and his boats it was «— --^ his intention to proceed to Atooj, and to complete February, liis conquelis by the reduction of that iiland. In the vallcv above tlie haibour tlie decifivc battle was fought, that fecurcd to Taniaahmaah the ])oi!enion of Wohahoo. Tianna was killed in the contell, with 301) of his party, who, though they came \^ithTaniaahmaah, afterwards joined the people of Wohahoo in defence of their country. Trytooboony antl Korokranec, his brother, ^verc the principal chiefs <»f Wohahoo who had efcapcd to Atooi. This Trytooboony was the chief who, by the alTiftance of the unfortunate Mr. Brown's crew, had defeated '^I'ayo, the fupreme chief of Atooi and brother to the former chief pf Wohahoo. Titerec, dead foiiie time fmce, was chief of Mowee, and fuccccded by his fon Korokranec. I endeavoured but in vain to dilTiiadcTamaahmaah from his expedition. His fubji'dts M'ill ihvercly lament his aml^ition, as it is inipolfibk' that they can ever return to the illands to the windward. It will be their fate to carry famine and (liihife to the territories they may conquer, where they muft remain. European velVels liave furnilhed tliis cliief with fo large a fupply of mulkets and am- iniuulion, together with fome .'3 and 4 pounders for his boats, that he prefumcs his force is equal to any c attempt ; 4': A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK J. 1796. February. attenipl ; particularly as he has fixtecn Europeans with him. His intention was, after the reduiHion of Atooi, to proceed to Bola Jiola, one of t!»c Society illands. An American veflel had left with him three natives of Bola Bola, by whofe fuggeltions, mod pro- bably, he had refolved upon the enterprife. During our ftay, excepting the taboo day, he refided on boartl. His wants were very great; he requefted his velTcl to be rigged, fitted for lea, and made proper in every refpert. I aflfilled him as mucli as was in my power, but, am afraid, ineflbieeze from tlie N. E. (iiuxrlcr. It was fingular we had not dilcDvcred tliis liarhour of Fair Haven, when we anchored here in 17f)'i, in the Chatham with t(hc Difcovevv, Captain Vancouver : we did not in- deed fearch for one, though 1 remember a break was noticed in the reel" as we I'aiU^d through Whytetee bay. At 6 V. IVI. the eatl point of Wohahoo bore N. 9° E. three or four miles, and we Oeered N. W. by W. i W. for Atooi. After running 58 miles in that courfe, we faw the iOand hearing N. W. by W. to W. three or four leagues diftance. AVe hauled our wind to the North till 7 A. M., when the extremes of land bore from N. 27° W. to S. 30° W. off lliore three mile*?. After palling fomc high rocky land, we fleered more to the weftward. Juft to th*? N. E. of this land there was a fmall opening, feemingiy favourable for anchor- age, but the entrance Avas expofed to the trade-wind. We had 13 fathoms, after i-ounding the eaftern point, which (lioals gradually to within | of a mile of the (hore. Soon after noon wci came to an anchor in 29 fathoms, fandy and muddy bottom. Unfortunately for us the illand was in a Hate of war. A chief from Wohahoo, named Taava, had taken up arms againll Tamoerric, the fon of Tayo, and at prelent polTeflicd the diftri^i about ^^'ymoa. The Europeans of his party came to u^ ; and by their affiftauce in employ- 2 ing TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 4"; 'f niL and th(' flioiv of Nootka, wliero Iho fhip was made Heady witli lunrfors, and laid in ^ I'athonis Mater. On an examination of the liarbonr, Ave found the l)cacli jKU'fectly eonvcnient for laying the Ihip on lliore ; wv tlureforc fliifled oai- birtli, and Avarpcd into Mawince liaibour. At low water we iiad :)i fathoms, and wvw protocled from all M'inds. 1 796. March. Our tents were fixed oppofite the ihip, and provi- fions fcnt there with a guanl. In the courfe of the week our anehors, eables, and 14 guns, were alfo landed on a eonvenient ftage, whieh the earpentrrs had made for that pnr])ofe. 22ti. fZUAJ M'-i "We vifited the Sound to the eaflward, wliilo another April loih. party Ment to Nootka, where they met with the Lady Waihington brig. She had been out 31 days from the Sandwich lilands, and flic arrived at this place with the intention of repairing her leaks, Her ap- pearance gave us great pleafure, as wc could mutually aflilt each other. 11 Fine ^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A ^: // ^x,^ fe .> '• .^ '^ <.. ^^ m ^ % L

■lit I i BOOK 1. 1 "90. AMilim 50 feci of tlic rock, l>iit further from it there was no holtoiii wiih ;>() iatlioms. 'I'liis rock is in tlio lunir l)c:nin^ witli tho centre ofTiitoviche lUaiid and < '.ipc C'lairct N. ■){)' W., raid S. ,']6° E. about i a mile, ;nul bears from the iiland of Xune>; Gaona S. VAf Y^.f-l'" al)oul i'w mill's or a liltle more. We })aiVed within a .// 7 7 *''/ liiile of tlie Ciaifet Ihore, aiul at 4 V.M. came to an anchor in the entrance of the bay at I'J fathoms. Tiie nellcrn extreme towards the Cape bore S. 80' W., and the north point of tlie ilhmd which forms the bay N. 76^ E., oft' fliore nearly a mile. It was in this bay that a Spaniili ihip remained 4 months, 1792. There is aood anchorage in it, plenty of wood and Avatcr, M-ith an exienlive beach for haulinp; the feine. Olf the ilhmd are feveral reefs of rocks Ihowing themfelves by the weeds, with a good palVagc between them and the main carrying o| fathoms. The N. W. part of the ilhmd is in hit. 48° 22' 43" N., and long. 23,5° 15' 45' E. ; var. per amp. 22" 34' E. If Duncan's rock 16 kept well on tiie Claifet ihore, and the iiland open with it, there is a clean paflage to the north- ward of it, where the bay may be entered witli fafety, and the anchorage chofcn at pleafure. It flows at full and change lli. 30m., rife and fall of the tide about 10 feet. There is little or no tide in the bav, but TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. ^v hich breaks when it blows frcih againft the ftrcain. In the morning we weighed with the ebb, and at noon Tatouche Hhmd bore S. 30° E. tuo or three iea. Uv -am km i m ^ )S BOOK 1. 1796. May ;7th. .i'^. i ■ '■! h<-r. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Our Ibundings were at 3i tathorns, and our tliltance iVoni tlie north lliore about live miles. At 8 r.^!. the Caj)e bore S. 46' j:., and the M. extreme towards Berkeley Sound N. (i4' W. At 8 A.M. the Cupe bore S. 56' E., and the N. extreme N. (i.V AV. At I paft nine we Avere live or fix miles irom the iliore, iiierearm<4 our Ibundings IVoni 34 to .'3.5, 48 and 4'i fathoms: linall Hones in the former, in the latter ihells intermixed with Hones. At noon the obfervation made the lat. 48' 32' 10"; the meridional altitude being- d'i" 38'. Cape Clalfet bore S. 70' I), about four leao-ues: iiland of Nunex (laona S. ^2" 30' K. Ex- treme of the land towards Berkeleys Sound N. 62° W , ! t !:' : • :C f i •) iSth June 4th. By keeping the ifland ojien with the Clalli^t there, there is a good mark for being on the bank ; and foundinijs may be carried elofe home to the north fhore. We fteer'd S. E. by E. and E. 8. Il ; half pafi IJ, faw Panto de los Reyos in tliat dire(^lion. "We pafled within a mile of it, carrying regular foundin.gs. At i paft 7 we came to an anclior in 15 fathoms, Avhen the Punto de los Pieyos was juft fluit in with the S. E. point of Sir Francis Drake's Bay, bearing S. 81" VV. ; River entrance, N. by W. ; and the extreme, towards Port TO THE NORTH PACFIC OCEAN. ol)ferved iatitiuU; Mas 37° 58' 46" N. AVith two boats >ve explored tlio ilioio, where I conceive the place is in whicli Sir Fiancis Drake anchored 1.579. Wc explored it to a leniarkable fandy patch, bearing N. 6'()^ E., from ' the Ihip four or five miles, and found no opening except the river. A bar broke entiiely acrofs ; we had no more than 9 feet in palling it, and it ditl not appear faie even to venture a boat theie. Herds of deer M'crc ihen feeding on the hills and in the vallies ; and a communication commenced between us and the na- tives, who were walking on the fliore. The furf pre- vented our landing; but one of the faiJors fwam to land, prefenting them with knives, trinkets, &c. with which they were highly gratified. They were rtout well made men, darkly coloured, and perfectly naked. The women were in Ibme degree clothed. This bay affords good flielter, except froai the eafterly winds ; but the fea cannot be very great even with them, as they blow over the land about San Francifco. I'hcre is anchorage here, when the fouth point of the bay bears S. 50° E. off Hiore. I 2 At 59 Port Francifco, bore S. SV E., our diftancc from the CHAP, point of bay bcnng about a mile and a half. At noon, 1795. June. i1 ::i^ iinii i ; .■» n Hi Ml i I 1 !l Mi ll imim i liiWiWi » t|wl>''|H ^9l [ W- ;l ; M r. i r^ CO BOOK I. 1 796. Juiw 5th, A VOYAGE OF DISCO VrHY At 1 P. ^1. v.c \ lio the rntrance, on arcount of tlic luizo or ili'.^ vorks vhicli lie to leeward, called Fariiloncs. At liairj)art 7 P. M. the extremes of the land boie iVoni X. 21" h). to S. 7G' E., ojViliore alioiit nine miles. About 9 P. i\r. vc had the niisibrtunc to lofc Patrick Sherrv, li^aman : bv accident he fell IVoin the mizcn-toji upon the deck, and was killed inftantly. This was the fecond calLialtj of the lame kind that had happened to us fnicc we lell Enoland. lie was the only man who did not volunteer for the lervice, as he was fent on board the fiafr-lhii) at Plvniouth by the ci/il power, whence became to us. ;i r m^ Athalfpafl 1 A.M. it blew Itrong, with a great fwell of fea ; at half paft 4 A. M. wc wore and fleered E.N.E. for the land ; at 6, we faw it bearing N. 4S' E. five or fix leagues. At 9» being well in with the land about Punto Nuovo, we Itood to the S. VV. in hopes of an obfervation, as I did not think it right to run into the bay with the wind blowing hard at N. W. ; and I could not diftinguifli Point Pinos. We ob- fcrvecl TO '[{['. NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. €l fn-voil m lalitvulo :3(y i.T .'3'r, alt. 7.'/ '>S' 40", and CM A P. Imw (lie ))()jnt, ht^iniiij; S. 7")° I), four or (l\c leu- — — ' (rrvs. Wo rio(MC(l Call lui' tlio bay of Afoiitcn^v : juu«. at .'3 P.M. ranm to an aiirlior in 11 fathoms, and moored iliin, alVcr faliifimj; ilic iort with II ij;mis, uhicli was rctiuiuul with an equal mimber. Pi(;fi(lii) 1)0K' S. l.r K. ; and the. Hag-itatroii the fort, S. :jO° W. luilf a mile fiom lliorc. AVc ivmaiiied iierc a fortnight, and wero nioft amply fiipphed witii excellent ficili beef, mutlon, vegetables, and niilk. 'I'he cis, n^Hnariiics, [)luins, nj)])l{'s, aiul orapi's, abouml licrc. 'I'lic rounlrv is jjlialingly (livcrliliid ; llioiifji, cxrrpt in tlu; vallics Avliorc llic gardens arc cultival-'^d. t|i(> foil is ralluT dry and linidy. 'J'lic inliabilants arc lloiit and well niado, Ihipid in lo^k, and ol" a dark colour lik(3 iholb ol' New Holland. I'licy arc cxcrllcnt iiiarkfnirn wiiu the bow unil arrow ; and their l)alk(;t-work ilicws no linall Iharc ol' ingenuily. Tlit3 watches llicwcd the longi tudc of jNIontcrey as Ibllows : 63 N' 1,-238' 49' 6"-i 2,-238' 30' ^6" ^'i'ruL' lonv. ii 238' 2c' E. by Cipt. Vancouver. 56,-237° 26' 16" \ fa J i / i 248,-238' 25' 27"J N° 1, Dow lor nicau time at IMonterey, June .17th at noon, l6^ 30' 35".? 8, and gaining liom live days rate 6.532 per day on mean time. N°248, How for mean time at Monterey, June 17th at noon, 1» :3y 4".7u, and gaining from five days rate 14".625 per day on mean time. C II A W iir. 1796. June. !..'■ I :■ The other watches, N" 2 and 56, I delivered to the Governor, with fome nautical infiruments, &.c. M'ho was authorifed to receive them by Don Juan de la Bodega y Quadra, my kite much valued and la- (j mented 64 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK meiitcd friend. 1 moft finccrcly regretted his lofs, aud ^' — ' was much hurt to deliver to his executor what I hoped jine! to have done to him in perfon. ' I i ■ I ■ : ' It was no^v necelTary I fliould come to Ibme deter- mination refpedting my future proceedings. My or- ders from the Admiralty were, that I iliould i'urvey the fouthern coaft of the fouth-weil part of Souih America, upon the idea that Captain Vancouver, who had fnnilar orders, would not be able to fulfil them. But as I now had certain intelligence that he had left this port eighteen months before, and that both the fliips, Difco^ery and Chatham, under his command, were in a good condition, I had not the fmalleft doubt of his ability to comply with his inftrudions ; particularly as I had information of his lailing from Val. Paraifo, in lat. 33' S. for that pu^-pofe. As this was the cafe, my proceedings in future depended upon my own difcretion ; and I wiftied to employ his Majefty's Hoop, under my command, in fuch a manner as might he deemed molt eligible for the improvement of geo- graphy and navigation. I therefore demanded of the officers their fentiments in writing, refpedting the man- ner in which theic difcretionary powers allowed to mc might moft efledually be employed. I'he refult of their ,f|-. TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. tlivir opinions, 1 was linppy to find, coincided v.itli my own, which was to ('urvcy the. conil of Alia, coni- inoncing at tlie iiland ot" Sakhalin, liLualcd in ,52^ N. lat., in the foutlicrn part of the tea of Ochotz, and ending at the Nanking river in 30° N. hit. i\ly in- tention was alfo to complete the i'urvey of the adja- cent iflands, viz. the Kurilcs, and thofe of Jefb and .}a])an, left nnfmillied in Captain Cook's lafl voyage. I tiionght fnch a furvcy would he wry acceptable to geograj^hers; for the limits of both the continents of Afia and America would then be known as far as navigation was practicable, and a knowledge of the, Northern Pacific Ocean would be conijjletcd. Another reafon for n.y undertaking this vovaiie was, that as yet the allronomer had met with no oppor- tunity of comj)lying with his inftru6tions Ironi the board of longitude, in making obfervations and afccr- taining unknown i)laces, our line of navigation liav- ing hitherto led us to follow the track of Captain Vancouver, In any other part of the Northern Pacific Ocean there appeared little to be done, except that of fettling the pofition of a hw illands, in them- felves of little conlequcnce ; but a furvey of the coafl of Afia and the adjacent illands, promiled to be of more fervice to the Icience of geography than K tliat 65 C II A P. 111. — ^ 1 •■90'.. Pi 111! m if • -1 ,,i .; m ii:-'\ tm :i ill m A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY that of any iilands left iincxplore(l in thefe feas. As this furvey could not probably be completed before the middle of the year 1798, I pvopofed fpending my time in that purfuit till Chrittmas, then to go to Can- ton for ftores and provifions, and to continue the furvey early in the year. TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 67 CHAR IV. Pajiigc from Monterey to Owyhee. — Arrival at Wohahoo. — At Wymoa Bay^ Atooi. — At Onehow. — Inhuman Murder of two Marines by the Natives of the lafl JJJand. — Departure for Japan. — Viftted by fame Inhabitants oflxfu. — Anchor in Volcano Bay. vJn the 20tli June we failed from Monterey bay in California, having left to the care of the command- ing officer there, a pacquet of letters containing an account of our proceedings fnice we failed from Port Jackfon in 0(itober 1795. This pacquet was ad;lrefled to Evan Nepcan, Efcj. Secretary to the Adh iralty. In our route to the Sandwich Iflands, we fearciicd for the idands of Paxaros or Bird Kland, and that of Donna Maria Lazara unfuccefsfully, and on the 6th of July after a favourable paffage, anchored in Karakukooa bay. Til J...- "l^j inducement for flopping here was to afcertain the rate of the time-pieces, and to complete taking in our water till we departed for the coall of Japan. C li A P; IV. 1796. July. I ;4i 'M • S ' ' K o On ^^ :<■• WW 68 BOOK I. 1706. July. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY On our aiTival the taboo had cxifteJ for four days, and continued to the 10th,- Avhen our tcMits were pitc])cd in their okl ilruation near the AForai. We roninienced our ditlerent empUn-nients /or the com- pletion of our water, and tlie regulation ol' the time- pieces. The Ihip Nvas foon furrounded by numerous rilUors, who were much rejoiced at our return ; and it being Sunday, after diNine fervice was performed, our "pe"P''' ^''''^ pcrmiilion to amufe themlelves on ihore. 'i'he following day we began Idling water, M hich was brought in calabalhes by the natives from the hills diftant four or five miles, for which they were paid 100 nails per hogdiead : this n.ode of procuring water foon became loo expenfive lor our ftock, and we were unable to complete it. Owing to the cloudinefs of the atmofphere, the aftronomcr could feldom fee the fun, and as wc were contented with the altitudes he had already made, we did not willi to be detained any longer, and therefore ilruck the tents on the 22d. In the mean time the iliip had been painted and fitted for fea : we failed out of the bay the fame evening. We experienced during our ftay in the bay the fame kind attentions as before, and were amply fupplied with hogs and vegetables. In return we gave them fliects of copper, n-on lioops, and TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. and nails. The ducks we loft had bred, and the C^^^' cattle left by Captain Vancouver had much increafcd '"^'T^ m luiniber. The garden feeds luw failed through J»*'y- inattention ; fome roots of horfe-radilh were in high vegetation, and the cabbages were reported to us as flonrithing confiderably in the interior, together Avith fome other plants; but we did not extend our walks far enough to fee them. Goats were in great ])lcnty, and many of the flieep had bred. The Englifh fcaman, John Voung, who went with me to the illand of; AVohalioo, had returned, but Tamaahmaah" and .all the chiefs were ftill to the leeward. Their ablcnce had much increafcd the power of a chief named Naametehaw (Tianjia's brother), who was in a ilate of revolt, and accpiiring by degrees the whole ifland. He now poficifed four out of its fix diftiidls, and was approaching near to Karakakooa, where there Avas little chance of refiftance, as the ])eopIe were averfe to fighting, having no chief in whom they confided to lead them on : indeed the only pcrfoii of that rank Avas Mahooa, Avho had loft his eye-fight. He Avilhed much to go Avith us to WohahoAv, that he might explain Avhathad happened to Tamaahmaah, but the people, havnig no other chief, Avouldnot jx3rmit him. T '■H.>^, 70 ri W BOOK I. 1796. July. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY In the lull iVwmiWi Avith tlie rebels an European \vas killed, and their leader vowed veiigeaneo againil the four who ftill remained on the fide of Mahooa. It appeared extraordinary that Tamaahmaali fliould neo-lecl^t his own iOand, and leave it cxpofed to any ufurper ; but it was ftill more fmgular, that while a chief of Atooi was taking poffeilion of Owjhee, he was preparing to invade the very illand from whence this ufurper and his brother Tianna came. Such was the abfurd condudt of this chief; who was ruining himfelf and his friends by his ambition, yet, at the- fiime time, afraid to fend any of them to 0\s'yiiee, left they alfo fliould fide with the revolters. A conftant jealoufy of each other's power feems to be univerdd amonoft the South-Sea lUands. No velfel had been o in the bay fince we left it : every thing was plentiful The people were generally aff'eded with the itch, but triflingly fo with venereal complaints. It was on the morning of the 25th that we arrived at Wohahoo, and waited in Whytetee bay for Ta- maahmaah to come on board. At noon he Avas witlv us, attended by feveral chiefs, in a large failing boat from the harbom- of Fair Haven. This boat was built by the Europeans living in this ifland, and was in- tended for the attack of Atooi ; but iis that fcheme 6 foE TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. return to Owyhee. They had, hoAvcver, endeavoured to reach Atooi, but the weather was too boillcrous for their canoes ; antl the rsvolt at Owyhee caufed an alteration in their plans for the prefent. Tlie ifland, in refpe6t to provilions, was worfe than ever, for all the hogs had been deftroyed when the inhabitants left it to go to Atooi ; and we could procure no vegetables, as they had i)crinicd through ncglcd of cultivation. 'J'his fcarcity had caufed the delirudlion of many of the unfortunate natives, wlio, through abfolutc want, had been induced lO ftcal whatever came in their way. For thefe thefts they were murdered by the chiefs iu the moft barbarous manner, and many were burnt alive. It was coni])utcd tliat Tamaahmaah had loll fix thoufand of his j^ieoplc by the concpieft of this ifland, and fubfccpicnt calaniilies. As the vclTel built in the harbour by the Euro|)eans was not quite com- plete, Tamaahmaah was very anxious I fliould leave with him every neceirary article for her equipment, even to guns and powder. I prefented hi in with fe- veral things much more ufeful ; and we parted in the moft friendly manner, with his permilfion to make a fettlement on any of the iflands I pleafed. Wohahoo n for the prefent was given up, the chiefs determined to CHAP. 1795. July, y.:-r, it S I. N I I, ill P ?l '■iWA i n ms ! .i t\\ 7J BOOK 1. 1796. July. ijth. 26tl). A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Uohal.oo fcems moll lavourahle for a lull t^fiablilh- ,Hnt, on account of the harbour; and in M hytetce bay to the wcllNvard of Fair Haven, is another winch is formed in a large bafon when the reefs are palled. Pearls of a good ciuality and fize arc colleaed in tln^ bafon. The itland of Owyhee has alfo two or three harbours, but they ean only receive fniall veflels. The beft of them is hi the diftrirt of Ahiulo, on the eaft fide of the illand, of svhicli the entrance is formed by a reef that, Captain Cook fay.s iii fome degree eudan- o-ered his fliin. In the afternoon wc parted with our friends making fail for the iiland of Atooi, where 1 purpofed to com- plete our water. On the followhig day we auchored in Wymoa bay, in 23 fathoms ; the extremes bearing from S. 60° E. to N. 72° AV., otffiiore 1| mile. Early in the morning we commcticcd taking in our water ; but the natives ftrongly maintained it was pri- vate property, and that we Ibould not take any away unlefs we paid for it with powder. AVhen their re- folution was reported to me, I fent an armed force to proted the watering party, and to convince tlie na- tives that I was determined to take what tbcy would not \ ! ■I TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 73 not grant voluntarily. In confequencc of this meafurc CHAP, no t'urllior objection was made : Ibmr of the inhabi- '-—.—' tants, who afliAed us in filling and rolling the cailts, juiy", were paid for their trouble ; and our watering was completed in twenty-four hours. This illand, fmec we lail touched here, had been entirely conquered by a chief, named Teavee, grand- fon to Perorannee. The depofed king, Timoree, lived with him, divefted of all power. We faw no- thing of them, as they were on the other fide of the illand, under fome rellridtions of the taboo : but we imderftood, orders had been fcnt over to prevent the felling of any article, unlefs we paid for it either by inufquets or powder ; of courfe we made no pur- chafes. A lliip from Briftol, called the Ruby, had bought hogs at this price, and was the only velTel thai, had touched here fmce our departure, except the Lady AVafliington brig. On the evening of the 27th. an European came on board, who faid, a perfon would come the next day from the Chief, with directions to fupply us with provifions, who had no obje6lion when he knew it was our Ihip which had arrived. As I did not believe this man's account, I thought it ufelefs to wait; but defired him to follow us to Onehow with whatever provifions he could procure. L In t.i' is '■I.- li' fit Ml f % I ^!i|rf ' « ' I 8 >i I ; I ^' m 7i 1796. lulv -3'1',. 29th. A VOYAOK OP DISCOVERY BOOK In the niovnirr;* a\ c "■ot 1111(1* 1 \\i\y, aiK I uuulc. Qiil lov the illand of Onrhou-, ^^■Ucvc mo anrhoKHl in tlic iftcrnoon at Vain bav, \\\ ]:> Tathonis I'aiuly l)()ttonA the extremes bearing from N. '2(r Iv to S. 10^ J '•1 one mi Ic and a half from the iliore. As I intended to here bnt 48 hours, for the puipofeof procnrin: renuiin yams, 1 fent the boat on Ihoro after breakfail, with u fmall' tent, and three armed marines to protect the articles they might procure, which I thought would l)C abundant, as we had purehafed but few on board, in the evening 1 landed, and was forry to find fo fmall u colledion : willing, therefore, to make it larger, I walked to fome of the plantations, but was told there was a general fcarcity over the illand. On my return. I met with a party which had jull come from Atooi, and with them Tupararo, the man who was diredcd to follow us, that he might fupply us with provifions. [ enquired after Hughes, the European. Tupararo allured me he would join us in the morning, when we ihould have plenty of yams and potatoes ; begging me at that time to come on fliore, and to bring \ ith me, as a prefent to him, fome red cloth. I told him, the boat would be on lliore to bring off the tent, &c. when he might come on board to receive his j cfents. The midfliipman went on board at funfet, and I v^alked along ftiore to the South, where the pinnace waited it ' TO TTIE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. leiiod, moiling levcral of the inhabitants, till I reached the boat, which was further off than I had imagined. As I had vifiicd this iiland twice before, and many of the oflicers had made fliooting parties in the interior without any interruption, I had not the lead fear for my own fafety ; but the unhappy event whicli took place the next day will iliew my fortunate efcape. 75 waited for me .ibout one mile diftant. Only one of CHAP. IV. the natives accompanied me ; and I walked unmo- 1796. July. In the forenoon I received fome yams from an elderly man, who, it was faid, was father to Tcavee : I alfo received fome provifions from Tupararo, who left the Ihip with a tielign, as he faid, of fending me more. The cutter was ordered to bring whatever he might have to fend ; and the mate was commanded to go on fliore with two marines properly armed, an- other man to barter, and the Ijoat's creiv with a mid- fliipnian to remain olf at a grapnel. They were lla- tioned fo as to aflift in cafe of need, to be upon their guard, and, if any thing occurred, to make a lignal. They had not been gone an hour Avhen I was ac- quainted by the ofllcer on deck, that moft of the canoes were gone on fliore, I therefore gave direc- tions for the boat's fignal to be made : it was then eleven o'clock : we faw them ftrike the tent, and im- h 2 luediatelv ;^oth. '! : Ir*. )IV vm 7t> I , BOO I. 1 790. July. ". ' A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY K ineaialely afu-r heard a firing iVoni tlie boat. As no lignal was niado, I thought this firing was intended to recall thufc who were abfent ; but foon after, the fignal was hoiftod for the pinnaee, wlicn I fent an oflficcr with marines to their aflUhince. On the return of one of the boats, I heard with much concern that the two marines were killed ; and that the mate, with tiie botanilt, who went to barter, had efcaped with the greatcft difTieidty. The pinnace remained on Ihorc to protec^t the dead t)odics from the natives, who icemcd anxious to get them, thongh they were funk below the furf. As this unhappy tranladtion took ;,' place without the fmalleft provocation on our part, I confuUed with the ofilccrs on the meafures neceflary to be purfued. Their advice was, at all events to prevent the natives from getting the bodies, and for us to proceed to Atooi, where, by getting fome of tlie chiefs in our power, we might oblige them to deliver up Tuparavo, and the other principals in thefe horrid murders : we alfo thought it necelfary to make fome example on the fpot. The boats were therefore manned, und diretStions given that the marines (hould burn every houfe, canoe, and plantation, within a mile from the beach where the boats were, and Ihould return before funfet. As they went we heard fome firing from the pinnace, which occafioned the boats to land without TO THE NORni PACIHC OCEAN. 77 without irfillancc. The natives took care to kccj) CHAP. 1 V • out ol" the reacli of the ihot ; or il they were near, to (hop down on leeing the flafti, and tlien to run away. The houfes were ibon in tianies, and fixteen canoes on the beach were burnt or deitroyed. Ail tliis time the natives aflTeinbied in great nuinljers, urmc(i with fpears : two of them had tiie ill-fated marines' mulhets and accoutrements. As our people advanced they fled, and fo prevented any perfonal atonement for their treachery. In the mean while, the bodies were found in about ocji placed as 1 liircOlcd, al)()vit one liuiuhcd yards fn^in tlu^ l(Mit j)Uu-rd on an (Mninciico, i< would liavo been a rcrlain rrfourco ; fof liatl tlx^ natives riiflu'd down tlic ban!:, tlify wonld have bron oxjiofcd to its fwc. it is tlici-elore moll probable tlio boat was lln Uicr dilUn;t ; ibr lli(^ mate, thounh lu> rf)uld Iwini very well, cailcMl to them thatif tlx'y did not jnd! ii. more he Ihoul.l l)e drowned, and when he rraelied tlic boat tlic grapnel rope was then cnt ]ia\ing '2.j> fathoms ol.I, anil the wind was from the huub He fouiul them it) conf'ufion, and defired the fiotial to be ni;ule to tlu^ ihij), whieh the midlhipman had neglei^eil doing. The natives fired fomc mufquets at the pinniice, whole balls went through her; but a iliot or two from her fwivcl difperfed the crowd, and all was cpiict. It was extraordinary that the two women, iiahina aiid Ti- jnarroc (whom Captain Vancouver brought from the N. W. coalt) Ihould have come with us from Aloei, when Tupararo was the huiband of the nrit, and whofe child had been lent on board that wc mipht fee liim. They were much alarmed, and defired to be lent on fl\ore; which re(piell we complied with, giving each a letter, bcirging they would (nliuli thtm to the firll veflel that arrived theie, but upon C U A V. IV. Jul). - '!i ^m no so U: n I' 1796. -lift. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK no account to let them be loen by the Europeans ai I. Atooi. Aviguft I ft. ^Ve were an:;ious to rcacli Atooi before the melan- choly news could arrive there, but the wind being Eaft was diredly oppofite to our courfe. This wa. nnluckv, for we could not fuppofe thofc at Atooi who >vcre privy to the tranfadion, would truft themfelvcs on board, it beino; our opinion that the fchcine was concerted at that ifland, and Hughes the European had knowledge of it by his not coming with Tupa- raro. I was therefore obliged to give up the idea for the prefent, intending to take the chance of a favourable wind, lliould it have happened in a few days, and in the meanwhile to fettle the fituation of Bird and Montague Illands. We therefore made fad for that purpofe, fleering W. by S. The idand of Orehoua is in kt. 22° 02' N. ; long. 199= 50' E. At 6 P. U. we faw a fmall iiland bearing S. 65' W. about twelve leagues. At 10 we hauled our wind, and remained plying under our topfails till day-lighl, Avhen the ifland bore S. 62^ \V. feven or eight leagues. AVe made fail in that diredion, at noon we°paffed it within two miles, when it bore from * 2 S- '''^" ro lliE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 81 1796. Auguft. S. 23° K. to S. 4r E., and we had 25 fathoms fandy CHAP. IV. bottom. It is not more than a mile in extent in any (liKOdon, I'iilng abruptly to a confiderable elevation at each extreme, and low in the middle. It appeared iiuieeellible to boats, and inhabited only by various lea-birds, who made their nefls in its perpendicular (•lifts. This ifland was fcen in 17S9, and is well dcferibcd and ])i;K'ed by Captain Douglas. The charts make two ifiands near this filuation,; we could only fee one with a clear hori>;on. ]5ird lihmd we place ia 2:3° 3' .30" X. ; long. 197' 54' E. by No. 1. A'c G P.M. the illand bore S. o'f E. nine or ten aJ. Icaoucs : ni;inv f)irils in fi"'ht. As the wind kept invariably fixed to the eaftward, 1 found tlicio ^vas no profpecl of again feeing Atooi, without too great a delay ; I therefore gave up the idea, and made fail to the Weftward, meaning to keep in the parallel of 28° 30' N. ; a tracl we had no reafoti to ijuagine had ever l)een crolfed before, and which might lead us to fome new difcoveries. As we i'.ad not found the ifland of Donna Maria Lagara to the E:;it, I alfo thought it probable we might iiill fall VI in sth. ^' t'^l il< ('I '1? V i'l !, ' '^- ' 1 '> It In ;li::^; w^ 82 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY AVc llnv IK) bials this duy, BOOK in with it during our run. ^; , or any iutlicalioa of laud. 1796. tr I" tbc tbrenoon a turtle was fecn, and many trop.c birds continued tlic whole day about the thq). At 2oh. 45 m. I made the long, mean of 3 fcts 0} ^^^o ^^' 30" E. Mth, 77th. 22d. weft of i :Mr. Chapm.-m mean of 5 lets Mr. Croflcy mean of 4 do. N' 1. fame time lylO 3' 36' E. 190" 52' 30" E. As we had eonfmned the frefli provilions procured at Owyhee, our people were ferved with lalt meat, •UKl a proportion of four-krovit and portal)le loup boiled with peaie. On opening the ealk we lound our muftard-feed entirely ipoilt, the air havn.g got into it. Several fliarks about the lliip. V/e hoiaed a boat out to try if there was any current, but couh. find none. At 2 P.M. we fleered more to the North, paffin,?: about 30 leagues to the N. of Captain C'U ikc's track in this htuation. A bird like a v)lover, with flying fdh ^nd tropic birds, were feen in the forenoon, Being ife. TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 8,'5 1796. Augull 25 th. Bcinff in the parallel of latitude of an iilanil called CHAR Plica dc Plata, but to the Eafl 2° of its fuppofed fituation, wo llctTod ^\\ by S. to fall in uith it. The ^vcather was cooler tlian we had experienced for fonic time, thougl) we had never found tlie heat oiiprelTive, as the fmoothucfs of the lea enabled us to carry our ports up both day and night. W.e ought to have feen this illand at noon had it been rightly placed in Captain Cook's chart, notwithftanding T\e liad been fct 16' to the South of our Gllimatiou by a current. As we had run 7' to the Wefl of the fituation in 2c,th. which Rica dc Plata is i)laced, without obferving the leall indication of the vicinity of land, we altered, at 7 V. M., our courfe to the Weft. A current feenicd to have fct us ftrongly to the N. E. thefc 24 hf)urs. On an cNainination of the ftore-rooms, we found Septcrabj; fevcral flops and fonie of our new fails damaged. The conitant heat had occafioned a dampnefs in every part of the fliip, and the humidity of the air incrcafed it. After burning fires in the fore cockpit, we got rid of the foul air by the extra^or. The thermometer gene- rally in the cocki)it flood at 85' and 87°. A current this day to the N. AV. !m IfuHi ■ 1 i 1 'i (■ iilQi Tl n:; M 2 ^v ,f ; iifi'i 84 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOic AVc kept our Avind to the weilward, that wc might , : < niakc lure of the north part of Japan. 1 796. Scpienibcp 5^^^- Palled feveral trees floating on the water, and fper- OtJl, niaeeti whales of a large fize. U:"> Vv'e kept o\n" wind to the weftward, in hopes of fee- in"' the land, lliould the haze ha\ e cu^ared away. 'J'ho fudden fall of the barometer foretold a change ot v.'eather. At 5 the breeze inereafed, c'.nd we took in three reefs in the to))fails getting the top-gallant yards down. At 6 the wind vcci-ed to South, with a hard s. Our diltancc from the land prevented any further remarks ; but we perceived by the obfervation, and the alteration of our iUuation, that a current fet us ftrcngly to the South. We employed ourfelves in fitting up the rigging, r.nd repairing our other defect occaiioned by the late hurricane. The extremes at 6 h. bore from N 40° W. to S. 40° W., five or fix leagues otT Ihore. V/e fre- (juently tried for foundings Avith 120 fathoms of line, during the night, without ever reaching the bottom. The 8th. (I '■ ■ IB H ' 1* if ' s » .1 1 ;l ', 1' if 1. ■.* ' f 1a d m n5 1 7y6. September. ^.. li' i A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY The extremes at noon bore from N. 42' W. to S. 1()* W. ; the entrance to Port Ndnibu S. .').V W., three or four leagues. InUead ot bri>g to the N. N. W. thirty miles, as we expecitctl by our uceoimt, we found our- fclves more to the S. ^^^ tiiau we were yeiltwday ; the current fetting along the ibovc in that diredion. At 4h. the whid veer;rg \.vith wood, prclentin;,' a plculing pro- ipea. Several houlbs were fcatterctl along the lUore, anil boats ui)on the beach. AVe alio remarked ieveral people iilhing. At noon the l\)int bore S. 1'^ E., about three leagues : water at oO iathonis. In the afternoon wc were vililed by three fiHiing boats. The people in them were of a light copper colour, with dark hair, very thick and cut Ihort be- hind. All of them had long beards, and expreilive good-natured countenances. They were of a middling flature, and clothed in gowns woven from the l)arks of trees, and edged at the culfs and collars with blue linen. A piece of cloth was tied round their waills, fimilar to the Maros at Owyhee. They wore fdver car- nngs ; and each of them had a knife in a fhealh hang- ing from their middles. They did not come on board the fliip till they had prcviouily fainted us m a iolemn refpeciful manner, agreeable to the Oriental courtefy of folams. We prefented tl.em with l)eads and trink- ets, with which they fecmed much plea fed ; but wc could not underfland each other. 1 Ihould imagine, from their behaviour, that they had never feen a Ihip Ijefore, as lliev fecmed alarmed, and fat down eloie to T TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. Hi) to the jiiingwav, where thev entered without utteiinc a CH A P. wonl. We eiKiuiiecl ot'lliem, if the illaiul was ealled — ^ — - » Matfrnai, which tliev iiiiiverlally i)()inte(l to he to tlio September. Weft ; and, as we couhl gatlier iVoni their pronuncia- tion, called their own land JnJ'u^. Having remained witli * Infu is the famous J.ind of Jcfo, only known to Europeans before this and La Pcroufc's voyage, by the journals of the Callrlcom and IJreflces. The following cxtratfl is quoted from RheinhoUl Poller's voy- ages to the North. " In 1643, ^'''-' l^utch Eall Company gave orders for two (liips to be ftnt from India to the North, in order to explore the route from Japan northward, and even to go as far as to Nortli America, and to feck for the paflage there. In confequence of thcfe orders, the two (hips fet fail together from the harbour of the ifland of Ternatc : their names were the Cti/?ricct>i, commanded by Captain Martin Ilcrizoom Van Vriez, and the Brc/kcSy under the command of Capt irn Ilendrick Cornelius Sliacp. On the 14th of May, the two fliips were feparatcd by a florm, at the diltancc of 56 leagues from Jeddo, the capital of Japan j and both faw the land of Jefo. The Brcflces failed through the ftraits of Sangaar, in 41° 50' N. lat., and in long. 164" 18' Eaft of Ttncriffe, /. c. 148° o' Eaft of Greenwich. They faw land again in 43° 4' latitude. In 44° 4' hit. fome boats came off from (hore to the fliip. In lat. 43'^ 45' they defcriedland again, as alfo in the lat. of 44° 12', and long. 167° 21 'E. In 45° 12' N. and 169° 36' E., the land appeared at a diflance like a great number of iflands ; but on coming nearer, it appeared one continued trad of country. In lat. 46° 15' and 172° 16 E., as alfo in long. 172° 53' E., they had fight of fome high mountains: they alfo faw Oill more land in lat. 47" 8' N. and 173'' 53' E. We fee from this relation, as well as from that of the Callricom, that the land of Jefo contains in fa " n quan- ritv i lii ! 1 ! m 1! m . \ ■ hi .ii niii 1)0 1)00 K I. 1796. .September. A VOYAGi: OF DISCOVERY v.ith us ail hour th(\v took tlu'ir leave, luluting us in tlie lauu.' ci'icmoiiious way as before, till they were at foinc ilillanee. Their boats, like eanoes, were hollowed out of a tree, with upper llreaks i'eweil 011 round thcui, iii- erealiug their width aiolV, aud Ipreudiug Tore and aft, being tity of iflanits, at prcfcut known to the RuflTi.ni^ wukv the name of the Kurilcs. The Dutdi ima^jhu-a tlicy h.ul iliii'crned in Jclb a large cx- tenfive country ; and in the hxtcll accounts wc have from the Ruflians, this ilefcriptiou is hkewife given of the land of Matzmai, in which the Dutch mention there is a place named Acquis, which the RuflTrans call Atkis. " The ftralt between Matzmai and Japan is about 6overfts, or 34 geo- graphical miles broad, and has a very llrong current, as have almoft all the ftrails between the Kurile irtands. «« This country feems to have got the name of Jefo or Yefo, from the hairinefs of its inhabitants. Efo in Dutch has the fame fignification as Efau." On this extra£l the following obfervatlons may be made : It does not fecm to be the fa£l that the Brelkcs ever palled the Straits of Sangaar, as flie was caft away on the north part of Japan attempting it. Jefo or Infu, inftead of being parcelled out Into fmall iflands, "s one conneacd land, divided from Japan by t!ie Straits of Sangaar, and from the ifland Sagaleen to the North by tlie ftrai's of La Peroufe. The Kuriles, indead of being comprehended under Jefo, are diftind iflands, extending from the N.E. part of Jefo to Kamfliatfcha. In Les Decouvertes faites par les Ruffes by MuUer, torn, i, page 362, is the journal of the Brefltes, publifhed by Witzer. A flriking fimilarity may be obferved in the dcfcription it gives of Jefo, and iu that of the piefcnt publication : it fays — " **e TO THE NORTH PACll'IC OCl' AN. 01 Ix'iMii; oi tlu' (aim; lliiipr both cuds. I hoy u'civ pnllctl CH Al». ill llu* i'iunc inaiuuM' I Ik* palliiLilc boats at I^lvmoiith ^^ — ' art\ oiKi pcilbii inakins; life of a pair ot' Ikiillcrs. 'I'licv Scnumiur. did not inal<(! iilo ot'thrir oars t()<;(Mlu'r, biil full uitli one hand, thin with tlit' othrr: this mode j)ii'\('ntcd thiir «« Lc v-iilTcau Ic JJir/hi's avoit etc ciivoye I'.m 1645 .ivcc I.i Cajhuom !\ In dccouvortc dc la Tartaric. Pros tie la cote oricntale du Japon ils furciu u*par vircnt terrc. A 44° 4' ils furent abordes par dcs barques : ccux qui k> montoient etoicnt d'une bonne taillc, robuitcs, ct montroient dc rintcili- pence. Les femmes qui les accompagnoient avoicnt lc telnt brun, ic^ Icvrcj ct les mains peintes en bleu, les clieveux coupes tout a I'cntour de lu tete, a trois doigts environ au dcflbus de Toreillc. On les aiuoit pvi? pom lc» jeunes hommes. L'cau dc vie etoit fort dc leur gout ii tous. Quclqucs- uns portoicnt .uifli des habits a ia Japonnoifc. U'a\itrc^ avoicnt des croix ,-\ M 9'2 o A VOYAGK OF DISCOVERY BOOK °theii- soing in a Itrait line, yet they Aveiit very lali. ^^-w Duriii*'- the iiii>ht wc phcd to the wellwarcl. The e '^^i* S. E. Point at noon bore N. 03° K., and the other ex- September. treme N. 28' W., eight or ten leagues. *. ■! 1 i 15th/ We Hood within two miles of the Ihore, and taeked in 4'2 lathonis; the extremes bearing N. 61° W. to S. 62° E. 'J' wo large boats were riding at anchor ; they had each one malt, rigged a midlhip's, on which they made ufe of a iquare fail of cloth or eanvafs : ihey were fmiilar to a fmall Chinefe junk in Ihape, fur le dos. Outre Tare et h fleche ils avoient encore des fabres faits o comme ceux du Japon/dont la poignee etoit incrullee d'or, la garde en- touree d'un bord d'argent, et le fourreau ouvrage u ramage. Leurs bau- driers etoicnt brodes en argent. lis porluicnt aux oyeilles des anneaux, et des pendans de verot:teri<^ de Nurcmbourg. Ils avoietit avec eux des pcaux de cliiens de mcr ct de caftors, et quelques etoffes des Indes. Leur ba- • teaux etoient des troncs d'arbres cnufcs, ct Tans ailes. A 43° 45' dc lati- tude on vit encore terrc, mais on n'y dcfcendit point. Cctle eft fituee i ao' plus ?. I'Eft que la pointc orientale du J.ipon, qui eft a 38' 4'. Difference ^■u latitude 9'^ 38'. Dircaion, Nord Eft quart d'Eft, & Sud Oucft quart %i*Oueft." Spanbcrg, tl.e Rufl'ian navigator, linded, b.e fays, in a great ifland from 43 ' to 50" lat,, fpeaks of the uncommon hairinefo of tlie natives, and of o tlieir wearing rings of filvcr in their ears. In the inftrudions given to La Peroufe, he is defned to confult the various accounts for the land of J^^fo coUeded by Phillip Buachc In his Confulerations geographiqueset phyfi- qucr'. Page '■5. but 'r: TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN, 93 Ijut we were not near enough to obferve them par- CHAP. 1 V • tJcuUirly. At day-lioht wc faw more land, bearing — - — • IVom N. 15° AV. to N. 50° W. ; and a very confpicuous September. head-land bore S. 70" W., apparently unconneded with each, other. We had no foundings with all our line. At J paft 6 we tacked in 42 fathoms, within four 14th. or five miles of the land, which bore from N. 22" W. to N. 70° E., and from N. 35° W. to N. 75° W. ; the land to the North apparently joined by the lownefs of the Ihores. During the night we kept plying under cafy fail, having foundings from 48 to 56 fathoms. At day-light the land of Infu bore from N. 7° W. to S. 78° E., and the weftern Hiore N. 22o W. to N. 87' W., Bluff Point S. 38° W. : we were nearly in the centre of the bay, the (hores being diftant five leagues each way. From the rigging we could juft difcern the low land forming the head of the bay to the North. We fleered to the Weft ; and at noon a point of land made like an iiland S. 80° W., Bluff Point S, 18° W., feven or eight leagues. Extreme of Infu Eaft, and a volcanic mountain S. 63° W. At 6 P. M. we weathered the land, fetat noon S. 8° 15th. W. ; and at 9 P.M. we were well u[) with the volcano. 1 In 1 I >}V H mi I I, I Nil' il I ii f^ 94. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ■ sh BOOK In the morning we found ouifelves in a ipacious bay, u--i— ^ the volcanic mountain bcarintr S. 10^ E., and the ap- SepVember. paient ifle N. 64° E. five leagues ; the extreme to- wards the Bluff Point S. 48° E. A great quantity of fmoke ilfued from the north fide of the mountain, from which we were diftant three or four miles. To the weft ward were feveral houfes fcaltered along Ihore ; and before noon feveral of the inhabitants paid us a viht. They \\ere the fame kind of men we had before fcen, l^ciides fomc who refembled the Chinefe, excepting in their hair, which was long on the fides, and tied up behind, much greafed with oil, Avhile the crown and forehead were fhaved. They had all a pipe and tobacco box, and feemed much i)leafed with the internal part of the fnip ; but a breeze ipring- ing up they foon left us, and we ftood over to the north lide of the bay, with a gentle wind from the fea. At noon the apparent ifland bore N. 87° E. ; and the extremes towards the Bluff Point S. 50° E., diftant from the volcanic mountain about four leagues. Our watches this day differed lb confidcrably, that we could place no dependence ujwn them. Having run N. E. 14 miles, we were abreaft of a village : a junk was at anchor off it, in the entrance of a fmall open- intr. A reef of rocks extended to the N. W. : wc tacked in 10 fathoms to avoid them ; and fending a boat 10 THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. Qj boat ahead, bore up to the wellward for a hvy that CHAP. 1796. promifcd good anchorage. At 4 h. wc came to in 7 iathoms water, muddy bottom, about | of a mile September. from the (liore, and oppofite an extenfive village. T'le outer part of the reef bore South, and the volcano 5° to the Weft of it, about 10 leagues dillant. N YJ We had feveral vifitors from the village, and foon after a Japanefe, who immediately fent away our Infu friends. We attempted to converfe with our new acquaintance, but to no purpofe : before dark he left us. <>. ; r^ vl If i ''^ ■ 96 ^ VOYAGE OF DISCO\^RY I ! !•, P] CHAP. V. Remarks on the Country and Inhabitants round Volcano Bay.^ Courtefy of the Japanefc.-Dvfcription of the Harbour of En- dermo.—Obfervations on the Natives—their Drefs-Ornaments-- Habitations-Food-^Boats-^Articlesof Commerce-Agriculture.^ Remarks on the Soil-Trees-Plants-Birds-Fifh-^^adrupeds. ^AJironomical Obfervctions.— Range along the Coajl of Infu,— Sj>anberg's JJland. BOOK A- funvife the boats were font in fear-h of water, <^'^ which was found oppofite our fituation ; and the Ja- Sc 'timber pa^efe who attended, fignificd it was very good. cptem er ^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^ natives accompanied us ; but tlie jealoufy of this man would not let them approach within a certain diftance. They fpread mats on the beach, while we were filUng water ; and entered into converfation with us, fmoking fmall pipes of tobacco at the fame time. Their inquiries feemed to allude to our departure, and to fhew their anxiety for oc^ going away. On our proceeding towards the village they'ftrongly objeded ; and to avoid any difference, we gave up the point. ^y^ 1 6th. h\r* ^ ^! r / f' III ilic y '/ t./i:i'(/f/h:rx ■ IK- /i'. /t'/iiJii'/i/i'/l . I7.''7. r I lUi: y ^^> \"- ■■ ^^'' .,v iT.'i-; , X L'lti'iiiiii , . ./;■,-'// .'■'. X. /.I /it/ " /.// -. ,' /• r,//y't//i'i( Tiitr: ^, n, :l .t r Kl/l/l - V.'', /v.c.r /»■ /;.y ■-• l„- /■ ^.^■■^r^'^}- '■ w\ \. M il si} ' 1 ■' < \ r-- ',„,l'„. .W,/, "f i_. flihl(lli,,t Mn\ i:' ih<:l l>\- t'llitill K- ll,n it \ .17 .■:■,/: 7 •/:■ ■; .V If. .,/;.■, V D c ^' ViKVMj^cliV ill iiii- llv ''"/'/" ir U./l!,;„l,'/,/,,,t . iliti: r/.'h.f f: K- III. „h.,„ / /I'lWl.V ,l/;>„f l-r.'.tWt \ I ^•t* :i\„ .',' I" /'/ I a u '•■' ' ' + * ♦ * - ,x^' ■\ .. \^^' T ^*\ * * . ■ y^ /<• K MDKIIMO JlAi^lJOIl 11. (lu- l.Sl.A.NM>..f M.VI'S.'*I.»,V /lyl'ii/il" IV /I'./iii'iiriilnii IT.'I- , /.titi/tt'it ,fi://i .",_ X. 1,1 -/tf/" /.f/ J. /• / '''""■ „ l/i n.r rtl/iii . .•■ .1/. /■«■-,;• ._.f fir/ ■j. - -I 7 r '/ ••v ^ V, s ■ -"> \ - '1' \ 1 i \ ( V '..-S\ ''^\ ; ' J/ftt /:*/rtV'7 /;i fWf/c// X-/'t/i 'f.f SflftUff TO THE NORTH PA(!iFIC OCEAN. 97 We roweil along the beach to the Meftward about CHAP, two miles ; the country gradually rofe in llopin? «— ~^*- hills, covered with verdure and interfperfed with September. wood. We came to a fine ftream of water nearfome houfcs; on our landing, the natives with great iunni- lity brought us mats to fit upon, and fortunately there was no Japanefe prefent to interrupt their civility. This part of the coaft being more conve- nient for taking in water and wood, I determined to move the fliip towards it; and after obferving the fun's meridional altitude, we returned on board. During my abfence feveral Japanefe had arrived at the village with iiorfes carrying merchandize ; in the afternoon they came on board, with fome degree of ceremony, to pay us a vifit. They were c'othed in dark-coloured cottons, with filk fallies rourd their waifts ; and each of them wore two fabres richly ornamented with gold and lilver, whofe fcabbards were highly japanned : their fandals were of ftraw and wood matted. They alfo carried their pipes and fans with them. They Avere very particular in encjuiring what nation we belonged to, and what our intentions were in coming among them ; and as they feemed to comprehend our anfwcrs they imme- diately noted then., having like the Chinefe, Indian ink for that purpofe. .After fmoaking out their pipes, o and ■: i| III «;.:! ii If ■'I Mu I] 'JiH I. I70rt. A VOYAGE 01' DISCOVERY BOOK and taking fome refrelliment the}' retiiriu'd on lliorc. '—^ In tiiw evtMiini; a junk aniliorod iii'ur us: llic waj SeptembcT. li»dcn willi fea-weod (fiunis luccharinus), and failed the fame niglit. ryth. This morning wc hauled the fernc with indilTcrenl! fucccfs, and \vcre alfu enijdoyed in wooding andf ■watering;. I vifited the opening we had perceived coming in, whicli j)r()ved to be a fmall harbour liaving within it 3 fatlionis, and tine entranc« to it was between fome rocks above water. It is a very convenient port for fniall velfels, and iurrounded with houfes ; one of a Uirger kind was inhabited by fome Japanefe, with a garden producing French beans and turnip raddiflies. On our return we landed at the large village, and met our Japanefe acquaintance,, who appeared very uneafy in feeing us fo near their habitations, and flrongly preflTed us to return, to the fliip : we however walked to the watering place, where we embarked to their great fatisfac- tion. i ':|tr K I'll ,8th. In the morning we moored the fldp nearer the watering place, and for the firft time faw fome women. They were fiflnng with the men and affifting them in rowing. Their hair was cut very fliort, clofe round M ,-t 'V' m m U p (fii '! i s ! I r ^. //., ^' / /// r/ // I / ' f / / I / // ' \ J f / // fill lifh,./ M,n I iS, .1 In r.i.lill .i IJtiii,..- Slim,,/ . TO THE NORTH PACIFiC OCEAN. 90 round flicir heads; tlu-ir lips were pimdured with a CHAP blue colour, and their dotliing feemed in every ^— v— ' refpei!:! liinilar to tlic men's. Sc. icmb^-T Tliroutrh the wlioh'day we were employed in woodino- ">th and wateiinij:. In the morning we [)roceeded to examine the north- well fide of the hay. After rowing three miles we eanie to a fn all village fituated at the mouth of a rivulet; this tor fome didanee we traeed along the beach. It ai)peared to How from the North, and we imagined its fourco to be at a condderable dilhmee, from the depth of the water and the raj)idity of the dream. The country through wiiich it meandered prelented a very beautiful autmnnal profjjct'it ; the hills were clothed with verdure, which Avas varied with clumps of trees difpofed in the manner of an Englifli park, and appearing as if arranged by the hand of art. I'he inhabitants of this fmall villaire received us with great civility, but in no part did Ave fee anv cultivation. ^Olll We returned on board in the afternoon ngainll a ftrong wiml from the S. E. quarter; occafioning a large fwell, and increafmg in the night. o'J ' The if. rr^ o 100 liOOK I. 171/.. Sc-ptciUb-r O o A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Tlic liiinc wind and weather continued, and the furf on the beacli was lb high we could not get oft' eiliier wood or water. The furf on the beach remained fo high, that our parties could not land till Saturday; when the winds both from feu and land became moderate, and enabled us to comi)lete our taking in wood and water. The natives coniiantly attended our people on fliore, bartering grapes for buttons ; and fometimes we were able to perl'uade the filliermen as they pafled by the lliip, to fell us fome fifli ; but this we could but feldom obtain. I * Ik- i -S'J'- The mailer was lent to examine the Ihore between the Ihip and the apparent illand. In the morning wc were vilited by a new party of Japanefe, fuperior to the others in drefs, and equally fo in behaviour. We derived not only pleafure, but information alfo, trom their foeiety. 'J'hey ihewed us a chart of the world, which a])pearcd lo have been conftruded in iUillia; and having a book with them in which were drawn the arms of difterent countries, thev immediately pointed out thole of Great Britain, lo which country they fuppolcd us to belong. They had alfo a lUillian al])hiibct, and by what I could underfland. o TO THE NORTO PACIFIC OCEAN. jqj iindcrfland, one of them had been at Peterihurg. chap. Wc liad on board a fcaman of that country, who con- ^^^^ vcrfcd with them in his native language. ^ They per- Se^Ser. mitted me to copy a large chart of the iflands to the North of Japan, and promifed me to bring one of their own doing the next day. After mutual ci\ iHties they went on Ihore. The mafter returned in the evening, liaving found a very good harbour in the N. E. corner of the bay, formed by the apparent illand, which he difcovered to be a peninfula. Fine weather enabled us to get every thing from 26th. tlie ihore, and we prepared for going to fea. Our Japanefe friends joined our party at dinner, and prefented me with a chart of their own doing ; in return I gave them Captain Cook's general chart of the workl, which gratified them extremely. They were curious in making remarks on whatever they faw ; and wiiat they could not comprehend, they immediately reprefented in India ink drawings. They feemed highly pleafed to hear that we intended to de- part Hiortly. The aftronomer on this day completed his ob- -Tth fcrvations for the regulation of the time-pieces, and I ;• !: m. >l m m ' ' 1 1 3 ^•m '" '£-l ■■■ T uMMm ■ ' , ,! 102 BOOK and in every refpcd the — -.— ^ lea. 1796. ScDtcmbcr. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY fliip was ready for ^8rh. aptn. At day-light wc got under way, and with the fea- wind plied to the fouth-eaftward. Latitude at noon was 42° 18' 20" N. ; the extreme, forming the fouth entrance of tlie harbour, bore N. 89° E. four leagues ; and the fouthern volcano S. T W. ; northern volcano N. 50° E. Before dark we came to anchor in 11 fathoms, muddy bottom, about two miles off the en- trance of the harbour. The fea being open from S. 22° E. to S. 27° E. ; the fouthern volcano S. 25° W.; a fmall iiland on with a village S. 37° E. ; the head of the harbour E. S. E., one mile off the north fliore. Throughout the night it blew ftrorig from the S. E. quarter. I examined the harbour : it affords good llielter from all winds, bringing the bluff on the extreme part of the ifthmus (which forms the ftarboard point com- ing in) to bear N. W. In this fituation we found four or five fathoms ; and the larboard CMtry point ou the north fli'^r'- was on with the bluff. In running for the harbour, the ifland muft be kept open with the ffarboard entry point till within { a mile of a fmall 1 iflet TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 103 rflct (uliicli is ojily fo at half title), and the^i you muft chap. ilv.cr m to the S. W where your water will be flioaled, — T^ riiHi any birth fal<(>n you may prefer. 'J'he foundings s.p7.mbcr. griulually deereafo from 10 to 2 fathoms, foft bottom. A few houfcs arc fcattered on the fauth fide of the harbour ; and towards the head. the Azores are low and flat, fo much fo as to prevent boats landing within one Imndred yards. In all other parts wood and water arc procured with the iitmoft convenience. This morning Hans Oldfon, feaman, died. He was a Dane by birth ; and his death unhappily occafioned by a tree falling v.pon him. After lingering in tor- ments for fome days, a mortification took place ; and we had the misfortune of lofing a very willint^ and well-behaved man. He was buried in the fmall ifland, to which, in cpnfequence of the event, I gave his name. 30th. The harbour is called Endermo by the natives* It is .fituated on the N. E. corner of the bay, formed by the apparent ifland which is an extenfivc peninfula of a circular figure. Latitude of the entrance, Longitude, 42" 19' 29" N. 141!' 7'36"E. High ? Mi ;f IT 104 1796. September A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY High water, full anJ change of the moon, 5h. 30' apparent time ; rife and fall 6 feet. The entranct; into this extenfive bay is formed by the land, making the harbour, which the natives call Endermo, and the fouth point of entrance, which they named Efarmi. They bear from each other N. 17° W. and S. 17° E. eleven leagues. There are no lefs than three volcanoes in the bay, which induced me to call it by that name. There are 50 fathoms of water in the centre, and the foundings gradually decreafe on the approach to either fliore : but the Iketch to which I refer will beft explain, though it has no pretenfions to any great accuracy. During our ftay, at the period of the equinoxes, we experienced generally very fine weather, with gentle land and fea winds from the N. W. and S. E., and no fwell to prevent a Ihip riding in fafety even in the bay ; and the harbour of Endermo is perfectly fliel- tered from all bad weather. I have feen few lands that bear a finer afpe(^ than tlie northern fide of Volcano bay. It prefents an agreeable divcrfity of rifing grounds, and a moll pleaf- ing I'ltge ici \ ; ll : '! A. n i-^ll rl il! ji //A-/ //"'J..U S'frif .te .M.- SfrHHtf j«|;.'|5 1! ¥ . i.f './//'//// /'/' '//'<'•/' ■:■ FJl. '''I'/f/Z/t/// • ' '//fifC f>/ 't>A-f/y/r> : ^, ^/l // /V/V// ^'/>//// f .Iff '/ //(■ //> '1///1/ /i'> //// //,/ f^///l'///f . /^// '/ Ai'/^ /■ f/ //// A' ///t ( r/.i/ li,l lllh,,l M.lt l'.' I,-,>.I /'I r,i,/rll .f /'■llii.r .III I'niie ici /V/f'j/ J fJl, ///y^.i/ /f>. /^ijy ^'•/ J// f .>// //'-/. //. .Vfttf.tr .Mr ,iti;itht . ,,,,,//,■///> (\/.>^/;r/,/ ,/ // '^ ■ /r,y/f.■ D.nii.' .i/ri'ti,/. IWT" 4ii TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. io:» 1111^ vnrirtv of deciduous trees flicddins; at this time CHAP. . , ' . . V. their runinicr IbUage. w/^ 1796. September. Tlie natives fecmcd to anfwer to tlie dt^fcriptiou ^iven by Spauberg, tlie RuHiau navigator, uho vifited an illand in 43° 50' N. Tlie men in general were of a iliort ftature, their legs inclining to bend outwards, and their a-""- rather Ihort in proportion to their bodies. Their beards were thick and laroe, coverino the greatcit j)art of the face, and inclining to curl. The hair of the head was very bulliv, which thev cui (liort belbre on the forehead, and below the ears : behind it was cut ftrait. T'heir bodies were ainioll univcrfally co\ered -with long black hair ; and even in fonic young children we obferved the fame ap- l)earance. The women have their hair cut diort round their heads, but nuich longer than the men : t'.ii back of their hands and forehead were tatoocd, as well as round the mouth. They had firings of glafs beads round their necks, and other ornaments. The drefs of the men eonfifts of a loofe gown, made of the inner bark of the lime tree ; it reaches down to their knees, and is faflened round the middle by a belt, in Avhieh they carry a tobacco-box, pipe, and knife. Some of them had filver rings in their ears, with beads r haniiinii' I I ,: 11 '-ri \\;n mm w^ 10(J A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK l.antrin- (Voin then. Tl.cir (Irclk is only worn in cold ^■-^ ^s■c^^\hcv, wlii.h ihov Hip cH" ^"ul on as nuiv hv n»oi\ S-Ser couvrnicnt: in the hot l^alon thc-y c,.»ly nvc.u' a pioc*^ of linen rovuul their waills. The Icniale drels clilleis little tVe.m that of the men, rxeept that their goNvns reach to the miadle of their le-s : fonic of them were formed of feal or drer Ikins, ad.a'ned ^vitl^ i)ieces of blue cloth. The features of the women were pleafmg, though much disfigured by the mode of cutting their hair.'' Their behaviour was inodell, referved, and be- coming their fex. The children went entirely naked. The men folutcd us in the moll humble manner, fit- ting down crofs-legged, ftroaking their ])eards after ftrc°tching forth their hands, and bowing nearly to the ground. Their houfes were built of wood, and the walls formed of reeds, as well as the thatch. In the centre was the fire-place, and fmall openings at each end of the roof to carry off the fmoke. Over the fire-place copper fau.ce-pans for cooking were fufpendcd, and a night fcaffolding for drying fifli and grain. A plat- form was raifed above the ground, covered with fkins and mats, on wliich they llept. Their dwellings wero generally of an oblong form. Their lO TlIK NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 107 Their food coiififts chictiv of drictl filli, boilcnl with CHAP. V. fca-wccd, and mixed with a little oil made from tlic — .-— ^ liver of the fim-fith. They alfo feed upon fcveral kinds SepVcmbcr. of IVuiis and vegetables, fueh as grapes, winter berries, the fruit of the l)rand)le, and others, with millet iivi\, Sic. At the villages they kept young bears and eagles in eages, prol)ably for food, as we could not prevail upon tli(Mn to jiart with any. Indeed their poverty feenied to allow little in the way of barter ; for even fifh w(; could feldom procuns though it was their conllant employment to catch them. Wild grapes were plentiful, and a fpecies of gaiiic or chives. Their boats were built chiefly of lir, with upper ftrcaks, increafmg their width aloft, and eontiuuino fore and aft, making them fliarp at each end. Tliey were lewed together with twilled willo\vs, and th(^ feams filled up with mofs. In pulling they made ufe of IkuUers : but inftead of pulling them together, they moved one after the other, w^hich prevented them from going in a ftrait line. Their nets were made of the twilled bark of the lime tree, dyed with oak bark. Their liooks, harpoons, &c. wer(3 procured iVoni the .lapancfc. The repairing of their boats feems their chief employment, added to their colleding and dvy- ing the leu-weed, of which a large quantity is ex])orted F '2 to m f. ,'i I'ftfi I^PIP W O O K I. 1706. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVK RY 10 Japan, ns a valuable article of food. Birch bark is alio an articK' ol" coiiniuMce. Tlic women arc cniplovea in weaving cloth for garments, and other nfcdVary domeftic work. The liuoking tobacco is a I'avoiuite amufc rnent with both lexes. Thele people of Infa were tributary, and in great fubjeaion to the Japanele, who prevented them as much as they could from liaving any intercourfe with us ; for whenever they appeared, the Japancfe drove them away. They appeared a moil harmlefs inoften- five race of men ; and we regretted much the jealonfy of the Japancfe, wliich entirely prevented us from acquiring the information we wifhed concerning Uieir cuftoms and manners. 'J'hey fpeak in a flow timid manner ; and their language contains many Japanefc words. There were forne trifling plantations of Indian corn and millet, but few other figns of cultivation. This we the more wondered at, as their (Ket feemcd very fcanty and precarious ; and the ground produced abundance of vegetabh^s, as we obferved in the gar- dens belonging to the Japanefc. 10 THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. ICp Wo lii\v no other animiils hut horlbs, doE;s, deer, CHAr. bears, luxes, and rabl)its ; but tVoin tho drelk of tlio natives, it would a]>i)ear that the iOaud is not deficient September, in various kinds of peltry. The foil is good, and the produee luxuriant. The woods produce elm, oak, alli, maypole, birch, bcaeli, lime, yew, lilver fir, j)incs, poplars, hornbeam, and the falTafras tree, with a great variety of Ihrubs. There are few plants that grow fj)ontaneouily in Eng- land which are not to be found here. Birds were few in number, fuch as eagles, crows, a yellow bird of the linnet kind, doves, wild geefe, ducks, lliags, herons, fand-j)ipers, fea-gulls, kv. 'J'he fifli were more numerous, fuch as whales, turtle, por- poifes, cod, fword fiih, I'un and ftar filh, and inan\ fpecies of cruflaceous filh. The aftronomer made the following obfervations on fliore, oppofite the anchorage, for the longitude, Sec. kc. Mean of obfervcJ htltmles, - 42° 33' ii" N. Longitude deduced from many obfervations, 140'' 50' 32" E. Variation on fhore by 3 compafles, - 0° 16' 30" W. Ditto onboard by all the compaflls - »" 27' 20" E. Higl. I >• » m 0 ' :'i ■ i *i'^ii ^fp no o A \OYAGE OF DISCOVERY High Tvatcr at the full and change Oi' the moon ai 4 h. 30' apparent time ; rile and fall between four and SepVember. five fcct. We experienced no tide at anchor. - October lit. Jd. Trefii breeijes and Ojually weather. In the alier- noon, the wind being Heady and blowing llrong, v,c got under way, carrying two reels in the topfails, and made fail for Point Efarme. At :> h. 7' the fouth point of Endomo liaibour bore Eall three miles, and at 6 h. 30' it bore N. N. W., the volcano S. 78° W. It was now dark, uhieh prevented any remarks to- wards Point Efarme : we therefore, at 8 h., alteretl our courfe, Peering for Infu, purpofing to explore it to the northward. At 18 h. ^ve ftiw the land bearing from X. to N. 75° E. fix or icwn leagues. Strontr breezes and cloudy Mcather. At 'I h. 30' we rounded the rocks off the point, and ihaped our courfe in the direction of the Ihore, at two or three miles diftant. At G h. the S. E. point of Infu bore S. 25' W. five or fix leagues ; and the extreme to the Kortli, N. 25' E. to iMf E. ; and we had '20 fathoms. T'ne night was moderate, and ^e kept plying under eafv fail, having regular foundings from 20 to 46 "^fathoiiis. We were much in the lame lituaticm iit ilay-hght : to the South, the land was high and rocky ; and .f- o TO HIE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. Ill and to tlio north-weft, it hccamo low and cliffy. At CHAiV /v. a confidcrabh; dillaiicc over the low land, v.c law very • — -— - 1 • 1 /• T '79'5- nionntaiiious land entirely covered with fnow. la Odoba. general, the coall was very indifferently wooded. Extremes iVom S. 37'' W. to N. 30° E., three leasjues off fliorc. k < The breeze came in from the fea, and we fteercd along the fliore, which continued low and level. To the N. W. appeared the entrance of a river, or a dee[) bay, clofed by low land ; but I rather think the for- mer. At funfet we had very little wind, and the ex- tremes bore from N. 62° E. to S. Sd'' W. ; an opening, N. 30° E. ; and v/e were off fhore three or four leagues. 3'!- At 7 h. we were taken aback with the wind from the land. At day-light the extremes bore from N. 40° E. to N. 6^° \V. feven or eight leagues. At noon the extremes N. 70° E. to S. 76° ^V^ ; ftarboard point of an opening in the land N. 21° \V,, off Ihore four or five leagues; Peaked Hill N. 9'' W. At liuv i -' ■ K. i ■ m \wf\l 1 1 '•» A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY At 2 P. I\l. the opening bore oflf us N.N. AY., on Avith the peaked hill ; it appeared to be cloied by low land. From it the conil tended to the ealtward, very flat and iteep clayini elilVs. At 7 h. we were abreail of an opening proniihng good flielter : an ilhuid lay in the centre, with an hummock on its eaft extreme. A inuiller iile was to the Well of it, on which the fca broke. At funfet the north extreme bore N. 50" E. ; idand, N. 35' E. ; and the fouth extreme, N. 80' \\. At 8 h. we hauled our wind for the night, and in the morning ilecred N. E. At day-light the illand bore N. 84° W., five leagues ; and the extreme, N. 30" E. Some low flat iflands appeared between us and the fliore ; but we could not pofitively afcertain them, lor the hazy weather over the land. The coalt prefenteil a bare profped, with a few fcattercd trees, &c. of very little elevation. jth. At noon the extremes herefrom N. 40° E. to S. 74^ W., three leagues oft' Ihore. Light breezes and fair weather. AVe fleered in tlie direction of the land, about two leagues diflant. At funfet we had i)aflcd two illaful^ near the main, bearing from W. to N. 41' AV . ; and the extremes from N. 55' E. to S. t)4o W., five or iH 2 iniles^ 10 THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 113 miles. At 7 b. ^ve hauJcd off under cafy fail, having 2j fathoms fandy bottom. At 18 h. the extremes made like iflands, bearing from N. 11»E. to N. 34'* \V. By 20 h. we were well up with them. To the Welt, we faw the continuation of the tlat land which we fuj)|)ofed the main. The illands piefented a barren furface, with rocks above and under Avjiter, proje6ling from their extremes to a confiderable diftancc, co- vered with oceanic birds. AVe alfo faw a good many whales. CHAP. V. 1796. Odober ii?' At 21 h. we fa\Hngli land to the north-eaftward ; and at noon we were nearly abrcaft of fome rocks detached from the flat land, but fecmingly connedled by a reef: they bore North to N. 34° W. three or four miles, and we had 45 fathoms. To the North mc faw high land ; and an ifland bore from N. 15° E. to N. 40° E. At 3 h. we were abreaft of the extreme fet, N. 15' D. as an ifland ; and we loft the continuation of coait, which tended to the N. W. At 5 h. the wind fliifted to the N. E. quarter, with gloomy weather. The ifland, at 6 h., bore from N. 25" E. to N. 60" \V . four or five miles ; and the rocks fet at noon S. 70" W. Wc flood to the S. E. durino; the nidit. Q Thick 6lh. 'lull M) 114 BOOK I. 1796. Oaober. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Thick foggy weather prevented our feeing the inancl dillinaiy till near noon. At noon it bore from N. 12" W. to N. 42° E. four or five miles, and the rocks from S. 67" W. to S. 80° W. ; by which it appears we had been fet to the W. S. W. We fteercd to pafs to the weftward of the idands, which afforded rather a barren profpedl of a moderate elevation. They were very rocky towards the fea ; but in the hollow ridges formed by the hills we faw fonie trees ; and as we pafled the fouth point we per- ceived a fmall village. At funfet the ifland bore S. 5° E. to N. 74* E. four or five miles ; and we had 37 fathoms, fine fandy bottom. After midnight we preferved our fituation, making Ihort boards till day-light, when the ifland bore from S. 22° E. to S. 42° W. five or fix miles. In the inorn- •moth. Throughout the night we had very fqually weather ; and at 16 h. we ftood in for the ifland, which at daylight we faw to the E. N. E., very indiftinc^ly from the obfcurity of the weather, which was fqually and rainy, preventing any meridional obfervation. At noon the extremes were from S. 5° E. to N. 8* E. three or four leagues. It threatened to blow hard ; at 4 h. it increafed to a llrong gale with conftant rain : the illand then bore of us S. E. two or three leagues the N. extreme, and we liad 95 fathoms Mater when we furled the topfails. At midnight it was more moderate, and at daylight wc made fail. In the morning the wind fliifted to the N. W., and we faw the land bearing from us S. 6l= E. to U I ■! lis BOOK I. 1796. Oftober. lith. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY to S. 27* E. : a low point S. 8** W., off fliore four or five leagues. The weather foon beeame thick and hazy, and we loft fight of land very foon after feeing it ; and the wind increafing without any profped; of its clearing away, we clofe-reefed the toplails, and ftood to the N. N. E. with dark, gloomy, and uncertain weather. 1 2th. Srong breezes, and very dark gloomy weather with an increafing gale in the evening, obliged us to reduce our fitil, and flrikc the top-gallant malls. At daylight we faw land bearing from S. 3" "\V. to S. 22° E. eight or ten leagues ; but the gale continuing, we wore Ihip and ftood to the N. E. We faw this ifland very indiftindlly from the fiate of the weather. Towards midnight the weather became more mode- rate, and at 11 h. we wore iliip. At daylight we faw more land, extending from S. 80° E to a low j)oint S. 30° E. ; and at the fame time the ifland feen ^efterday bore from S. 20' W. to S. 37° W., and foon after a third appeared ; this we conjc(^tured to be the fame we pafied on Sunday. We ftood towards them till 8 A. M. to convince ourfelves they were not connet^ted with each other, when we altered our courfc to N. E. with a gentle uind, which induced us to get up the top-gallant TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. top-gallant mafts and make fail. At noon we were 12 miles South of our edimatioU) when the extremes of the northernmoft illand bore from N. 70° E. to S. three or four leagues ; it appeared very high, and broken land in parts with projedling rocks, and in general veiy bare. We alfo obferved fnow in the cavities of the hills. 119 CHAP. V. 1796. Oaober. The other ifland was equally high and barren : it bore from S. 32° W. to S. 46o W. feven or eight leagues, but was of very little extent. The other iiland was not in fight. 13th. The extremes preferved nearly the noon bearings, the head fwell having impeded our progrefs. No foundings. At daylight we faw more land to the N. E., but a thick fog-bank from the horizon upwards prevented our remarking its connection with the other land, which at noon bore from S. 20' W., to S. 40° W. fix or eight leagues ; outer land making an iiland N. 63" E. By an indifferent oblcrvation we were 15 miles North of account. Dark and very gloomy weather. No foundings with 115 fathoms. m II J !' ■■■,> r:o A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY li o o K I. 1 796. Jl4tll. CTIAP. VI. P(i[fii"C to Mijrikiiii, one of the Kiirik I/hnuls — thrctigb the Straits of Dc Vrics. — Company's J .iv.d. — Statcn IJhincL — Unfavourable Weather prevented our going through the Straits of Sangaar. — Ran're the Eqflern Coaji of Japan. — Bay of Jcddo. — Japamfc Boats.—Fatjifio (/lands. A.T ' pi^l't 4h. ii iVcfli wind (pning up from the S. K. (iiiiUttM-, aiul wc ninde fail for the caflerninoft land, wliich at 5 h. bore N. 67" E. : founded frequently with- out reaching the l)ottom. At | paft <) h., ])eing well up as we imagined with the land, we tacked, and continued nlving under eaiy fails. At midnight we had heavy fqualls of wind ; and at 14 h. we flood to the eaftward under clole-recfed topfails. At day-light we perceived plainly the outer land to be an illand high and round and very Imall ; it bore Eaft from us. The fame weather Hill continued, and it Mas fo very haxy we could not difcern any other land. At 22 li. oO m. we had nearly loit fight of the round illand, bearing S. 6' W. four or five U^agues. The TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEi\N. 121 The lame inifavourable weather, with a cold damp Cli/vr. ail. At noon wc had no land in fight, and we laeked — --^ to the S. AV. The hazy atniofphcrc j)revented any OdcbJr. obfcivation. Frefli bree/es and fciually weather, with a dark and ijth. hazy atmofplicrc. At 3 h. wc fetched well up with Round J Hand, and again Hood to the eallward, under ealy fviil, exped;ing tlic weath^M' to clear up, to admit our making fomc remarks upon the illands wc had hitherto impcrfed.ly fecn. In the evening the wind moderated, and wc had heavy fliowers of rain. At funrife Round Ifland bore S. by W. four or five leagues ; and we difcovered new land to the eaftward. AVe kept upon a wind to the S. E. ; and at noon the Round ille bore S. 60° W. five or fix leagues ; another ifland S. 24° W. ; and the land difcovered in the morn- ing bore from S. 84° K. to N. oG" E, ; and we had no foundin2;s. The wind not permitting our palling South of the ,6th. ifland to the N. E. of us, at 3 h. we made fail in the direction of it. The fouthcrn part of it was very high, floping gradually from its elevation, and ter- minating in broken ridges at the bafe. A neck of low It land i i ji ii< "i'i • m ■l '■■ ■ (, \% i nn.| \ tril \ ■ ■ 1 \i im r nni V22 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK land conncaid this illhiuus with the othcM- part of the v^^ ilhiiKl. At i'lmfft it l)«)riHioin S. '3(i- K. to N. .j(r Iv ; oaobcr. and Round Illand S. Or/ W . Tl>c ni,-ht was a line nioun-hi-ht niivht, and wc run along lliorc till lOh., when wt; phcd as ufual, having no loundings with 100 fathoms. At day-ligl»t the illand l)orr from S. fr Lv to N.75'E. four or five leagues; a hill ol' a circular form, nearly in the centre of the ifiund, S. 77' K. 'I'he morning was f(iually, with varia'^le weather ; and at noon we liad palVed the north extremity of tiic illand, and hauled u|) for a palllm" that divided it from an- other illand : unfortunalely we had no o'olervation. A fmall opening bore S. 48' E. three miles ; the ill.md (fuppofed Maruchan) from S. 'J.V W. to S. :>9^' K. ; the northern illand N. 47^ E. to N. 67' E. three or four leagues. At 1 h. 30, the entrance of a fmall opening bore S. S. W. two miles, and we had .'xi fathoms. As I conjcetured ihis to be the haibour which is mentioned by Captain Cook to be fituated on the N. E. fide of the illand of Maruehan, and where the Uullians are faid to have a fettlcment, m 471' N. lat., we hove to and lent a boat on llio.e. At funfet the entrance bore wS. 5^ W. three miles ; and we ojHaied the S. W. point of Maruchan on with the N.W. point, making 8 them TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. i:. llioin in one hoarinu; N. AiT K. and S. iO' W. The chap. N. \V. point li'll al)ruj)tly to the tea, witli ibiiio rock.s ^ — — » Icattt'ird ofl' it ; and the N. K. point bon* S. 30' E. lour Odubcr. or live miles. 'J'he other ilhuid bore iVoni S. 'Mi" E. to S. (»() K. tin'ee oi' loiw h^acjues. The eaiiern point runs out into low land, but the wellern point lonncd a hii^h ruijfged liiutVhcad. 'J'he j)alVa!;e l)etwccn tiiefe Hlands is perfec^tly clear to all a|)pearancc, but the abteiure of the boat prevented our proving it. At 7h. .'30' we had the plealure to Tee her returning, and we ke[)t our wind to the N. W\ The night was calm ; and in the morning we had the v.ind at S, S. E., with thick, hazy, threatening weather, which induced me to ftand to the S. W. At '21 h. :30 Marukan Ibuth jKjint bore S. 26° E. Strong breezes, with foggy and threatening wcather> made us expect anotluN" gale, in which we were not d(^ceived. At .'3 h. .'30 \\c l'a\v Round Ifland, bearing S. 10° W. ; and the gale increaling, we pafled it at .11 h. ^0' to the eaftward, leaving another fmall illand to the Eaft, bearing from Round Illand S. 4j° E., which makes in two hununocks. At 7 h. 30' being clear of the iilands, we furled the forefail, and brought to under the ftorm ftay-fails, in R 2 a very i8lh J ■ 1 i ( IH I: ^'-\ BOOK I, 1 796. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY O 1 • 1 • A a very liarcl srak- of wind, witli continued mm. At f)lK iVonithc motion of tlie iliip 1 fell down npon the qu::-ter-deck, by which unlucky accidcMit 1 had the misfortc.nc to fraAurc my rii^lit arm above the elbow. The gale gradually, at 1.5 h., began to moderate; and by the next hour it veered round to the W. N. W., leavin«' a confufed fea. At day-liiiht we faw Hound Uland, ?ind we made fail to the North. At JO h. it bore S. 7(r E., and Hummock JJland S. 3G° E. o o o o o ° At noon we had light breezes and a large fwell from the EaiH l^ound liland bearing S. 40^ W. to S. ()4» W. three or four niiles. The winter (axion being now fet in we proceeded to the South, intending to explore the call lide of the Kurile IlUinds, if poliible. The officer reported the harbour in the ifiand of Maruchan to be only caleulateil for fmall velFels, hav; ic a bar in the entrance with no more than two fatfioms water ; but within the bar it formed a o fpacious bafoii, with regular foundings of five and feveii fathom.s. o Tie fettlement of the Rufluuis he found aban- doned ; but there ftill remained croflbs eredcd in dif- o ferent o o o O o o o O TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. fcrcnt j)laces, aiul the Rnirian nrmsrarvH and paititod. 'J'lic natives wcm'c fimilar to tUoCo. in Volcano liay, but i'poko apparently a diftercnt lanivnasro. Tliev were r^'PS'' elothed in ht;ar ikins, and wore boots of Riifllan nianu- ladure, and cotton handkerchiefs round their heads. Tiiefe people were equally gentle in their njanners, and in aj/pearJincc poireHed the fame degree ol' po- verty in their manner of living, and the conllrudion of their habitations, as thofe we had before remarked at Infu. The land was covered with long grafs and niofs, fomc trees of the dwarf pine, alder, bill, and crow berries. There were many feals, and abundance of fea et^o-^. It is lo be remembered, we had traced the land of Infu or Jellb from A'oicano Bay, to the N. E. point of what we conceived to be one ifland, extending from 4V 49' N. to 44° 30' N., and from 140° 30 E. to 146" 22' E., an extent of 100 leagues of its S. E. coaa ; which agrees very well with the account of De Vries's voyage, fuppofing he made the land in the fame fitua- tion we did about the S. E. point. Captain King, in o m ICO A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY i< 1796. Odobcr. B o o K in the notes to Cook's 3(1 voyage, page 377, vemarks, that in this part Captain Spanberg's difcovcries place the iilandof MatiniaijKunalhir, and Zellany ; and thatpro- bably the niidake of De \'nes in l"iii)pol\ng it one land was owing to the foggy weather. 1 am of a ditlerent opinion; for we faw no iiland of any lize till we came to one in 43" .50' N. and 14()° 50' K., and which I fuppofe to be the iiime Spanberg watered at, and is called in Cook's voyage Nadeegsda. In October llie I'Jth we were in the latitude of !()" 1' N. and 148" 4.V K., which is nearly the lituatioi* of the itrails of De Vries ; and we conjedured the jiorthern land to be what he calls the Company's land, and the fowthern land Staten Hland, bm which is named Nadcegsda in the above voyage." and chart. Captain King lup|)oics the Company's land to be Ooroop and Nadeegsda of the Kulhans, As we liiiled round this iiland, it is moii likely to be Ooroop, in which it is laid there; is a good harbour ; and Staten Jiland 1 imagine to be the Nadeegsda olthc fame nation. The violent iiales we met with, after U aving \[arukau, prevented our examination of the call fide- of thele. itlands. and palfnii:, as I inttMided, through the liraits which divide the land of lufu from the coaft of Nipon or Japan. Captain King .iffo imagines Staten Jllan4 h. Frclli breezes and fine weather. 1 h. Preai breezes and fine weather. 4 h. Strong breeze, and hazy, fiiortened fail. (ih. Hauled upon a wmd under eafy fail. 9h. Dark cloudy weather, with heavy rain. AVore fliip. 12 h. Strong fiinalls, Struck the top-gallant mafts. leSh. Moderate breezes and variable, thick fog and heavy rain, with a laroe fouthern fwell. 2.3 1), Light airs. Out reefs, and made fail. 24 h. ro THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 2; Hill continued. 24 h. Tijc lanic (buthern fwcll, 3 h. Thick fogL'V weather. Tacked Hiip. 6 h. Shortened iiiil for.the niglit, with moderate and t'ogoy ucatlKM". 8 h. Mind veered to the weft ward, and inereafcd If) a tVelh breeze, m itii very hiv/.y weather at 10 h., and we clote-reefed the topfails. TJ ii. Wore llii|), imd llruek top-gallunt mafts. Xcvy hea\j Iqualls. At l.'> h. furled th(^ toplhils and eoiirles, ami brouii'ht to uiuI(m- the ftorni lt;iy-rails. Heavy gales of wind, nl tended M'ith hail, at l.jji., laying to under a mi/en ftorni itay-liul. lf)h. (lot Ihe jil)-l)ooni in, and lowered down the s;atr. o Ih. Strong galf^ and lair, widi a large fea. I h. Strong gales ami line weather, with a lar'je lea. .') !). Set the lorelJiil reefed. t) h. More niotlerate. Set the niain-to[)!ail elofe reefed. \'2 h. I'redj gales and fme weather. Set the fore- Jo pfai I I.-^h. 121) CHAP. VI. 1796. 1 h. Freili breezes and very hazy weather, with a Odot jer 24th .5th. S«^ 1 . I. ( " 11! ij! i ^'m BOOK I. 179^ I'iO A VOYACZ OF DISCOVERY l,i) li. 'I'lic sale <2;rndiially (Iccrealinfl;. IS'i. I,iu,lit airs. iMatle lliil. Very clear went Jut. '21 I). Variable and Iqually weather, which in- iMTnfiil towards noon, with rain, as the wind veered to the Ibuthuard. 2A h. Frefli bretves, with rainy weather. j6th. 1 h. Strong breezes and dark cK)ndy weatlicr, Avith rain. Half pall 'J h., the wind fuddenly ilufted to the W\ N. W., witli heavy fqualls, whieii obliged us to clolb-rect' the topliiils. In the afternoon fcveral flocks of gulls were fecn, and two land birds came into the flii}). 12 h. Dark cloudy weather, with fiiowcrs of hail. 18 h. Frelli breezes and fqually weather. Made more fail. 24 h. Frcfli breezes and clear weathtT. 41' fouth of account fnice laft obfervatwn. i^tl,. 1 h. Frcfli bieezes and cloudy weuthcr. Made fiiii. 4 h. A fmall land bird, of the colour of a chaf- finch, was caught on board ; and a fpermaceti whale pafi'cd clofe to the fliip. 12 Ii. Light breezes and clear weather. 19 h. TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 131 19 Ii. riclh breezes and clear weather from the CHAP. VI. S. W. quarter ; and we made fail to the W. N. \V. '^^."^ 24 li. J3itto weather, with an increale of wind, oftobcr. l*»aivnicter fallinii;. 1 h. Strong breezes and fine weatiier. Jn fceond r(>els. .'3 h. A nunilx'r of porpoifes about th(^ fliip. .3 ij. Frclli gales ai\d ecame more modcmte, witii fair weiUher, and the uiiul veered to tlu; N.W. Heavy fwell from the S. W. quarter. 1 h. Moderate breezes and eltnidv. with a great bead fea. Made more fail. Baronietvr riling falh 6h. Fiellj breezes and cloudy weather. V2 h. Clear weather, with an inereafe of wind. 18 h. Strong breezes and d«rk cloudy weather. s 2 Clole- 23di. 29th. ii ,i- % 11 " Vj ' 'il I 'i i;j'J A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY DOOK. ('lofc -rt'cfoU tlif l()i»lails, ami Wwlcd the Ibiv arul mizcii I. . >— - — ai<>m(l(>r lliirtuatiiig lliis moniini;'. . 2i.li. I'll 111 gales of wind, willi lliowcrti of licet. •^oth. I li' ri( 111 gales and very hazy weather, with ;i largi" lea. Il:iii!'.il our wind to the; loiUhwaid, muler inain-to|)(iiil and lorelidl. (iot the jib-booin in and fjjritlail yard. 8 h. Tliiek foggy weather, with tlie gale nioderat- ing. Set the toj>liiiIs. The buromeler, during the night, fell eonliderably. 12 h. IMoilerate iireeze, with drizzling rain. Tried for found ings during the night. S(!a eonliderably gone down. At I'Ji h. the wind veered to the Ibuth- ward, and the lame log remained. 18 h. (Jot the toj)-gallant malls up, jib-boom and fjjritliiil yard out, and madetiiil. Jleavy rain at CO h. with thunder and lightning. AVore fliip. It foou after was ealm, and we had eontinual raiu. 24 h. Calm and eloudy, witha Ibutherii fwell. ,ft. 1 h. Var^ible weather, with a eonfufed fea. Several land birds about ; two of them were taken, and a wild duck was Ibut : we were alio accompanied by Iheer- waters. TO HIE NORTH PACIFIC OCKAN. l.T watCM's, prtiMcls, uiui alhalioilis. At 4 h. the wiiul CHAI M. iiic'icafrd, and we lacked. Al .") li. nc liiid it roii'j,' milts — of wind iVoin tlio wiitcrn (]uart(-r, w hicli lijon ohliircd Otlubc'r. lis to rcdiici; our I'ails; and at 6 h. to liiil tlic lore and. l)ii>5CMi loj)(iiils. 1 1 h. 'I'lic lialo auain fcttino- in from ^X. and N. A\'., gave us lu) liopt^s of palVrng through llraits that divide Japan iVom Malxmai; and tlie advanced leafon rendered it very likely mc lliould not fueeced after i'luther perfeverauee : added to which, my con- fniement, owing to my broken arm, precluded any fatis- fu6tory remarks even were we to fucceed. I therefore Live up llie idea for the {)rpfent year, and we iliaped our courfe in tlie dircdlion of the Japaiufc coaft, purpoiing to make the hmd about White Point, and continue the coaft to the fouth, as the weather admitted. 24 li. Frefli gales and cloudy weather, with a large folio win ji fea. P" 1 h. Frefh gales and fqually weather, with a heavy kt , fwell from the N. W. quarter. JJaiometer gradually ift. rifing. 4 h. Squall}', with fliowers of hail. 6h. Heavy rain, with variable weather but more moderate. 17 h. Light breezes, with lefs fwell ; I paft we were t'fm wn\'U I. I'JK HI Opi' ii' ^Si;; M TF^m I t 1:4 170C.. ^.l. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOi; .ere laVon aback by the wind nufting l\ulcU.l^ t« ^' Well. INIado all fail. .J.4 h. Light airs with fine clear temperate weather. and fmootli wnicw 1 h. Light dUH and calms, w ith fine weather. 1/2 h. Cloudy weather. Kih. :Moderate breeze, with rain. 21 h. l-reili breezes ami continual heavy rain, with fmodth water. ^ h. Stron- breezes nnd finally weather, with ran.. 7 h. No bottom with 70 fathoms. In two reefs. r>h. Squally weather, \\ith Ibowersof rain. IjHi. Made fail. Unfortunately liie time-piece ^» 1 was nei^lected to have been wound nj) this day at „oon, and remained ufelefs to ns for the prefent ; •h to be regretted, o\^ account of the Itrong niue rurrents. 'J4 h. F n ill breezes, witli frequent fqualls anil hear) ram. I 1 41 li. 1 h. Frelli breezes and cloudy weather, with lrr(|uent fqualls of wind and rain : at ncu^n we ftood Weft to make the land l)efore ni<^ht. o ah. 10 mE NORTH rACiPIC OCF.AN. .5 Ii. In third reel's, ami hauled our wind undci ciify fail. 9h. Triiul Tor foundiiigs with 100 fathoms of Jinr. 1 1 h. Moderate, witli continual rain, li 1). ljp;htairs. 17 1». Calm and variahlf. Light iliowers of rain. 20 h. Swell IVom the eaihvard. barometer llation- ary there Hi hours. A tropic bird and a duck fecu iu the morning. Small rain. 23 h. Heavy fliowci*s brought the wind to the North, and wc made fail to the W. N. W. to make the land of Nipon. 1 «.» C il A ;'. VI. 1 7.;6. Novuuibcr. 1 h. Strong breezes and fqually, with dark, cloudy w(!ather. 6 h. Moderate and fine weather. 8 h. Tried for foiindings. 10 h. Wore fliip, and kept our wind: eafy fail for the night. 12 h. Clou" ms'^i ^N- ' s M, ■ t [ "1 ■ I li .i '■ iSG A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY S h. Light winds. BOOK ^;^-/ 12 h. Hazy, with rain ; wore fliip, and tried for no6. r i- ' ' ' Movember. foiuidnigs. 15 h. Wore ihip : drizzUng rams. 1 8 h. Continual rain. Palled leveral patclies of fea- weed. Many land birds about the fliip. One of them (a dove) was taken. 21 h.' Variable weather, and very unfettled during this morning. Ikuometer very low., 24 ii. The wind, fuddenly Ihifted to the N. W., and brought clear weather. 7th. Ih. Moderate breezes and cloudy weather. Va- rious land birds and many butterflies with other infee^s about the ihip. 4 h. Every appearance of a flrong northerly cur- rent. 7 h. • The wind fhifted in a violent fquall, and foon inereafed to a hard gale, which obliged us to hand the topfails and ftiike the top-gallant maft. At 9 h. it blew a very flrong gale, when we furled the courfes and brought to underuftorm (lay-fail. At 10 ih. wore ihip. At 14 h. 30 ni. the gale moderating, fet the ibrefail, and topfails c!ofe-reefed. Very clear weathei', when the wind veered to the W. N. W. At TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. ]37 At 17 h. .jOjn. wore flilp, and made fail with a CHAP, ftroiig breeze niid clear weather. The barometer ^^^ rifiiig fall. ;22 h. r I i' North ofaccount fince laft obfervation. 'J4h. Ditto weather. Under courfes, and double- reefed toptkils. 1796. November. 111. Moderate breezes and iair weather. Made more fail. Many whales about the Ihip of the fperma- ceti kind. 6 h. Light winds and clear, with a fwell li'om the N. W. quarter. 12 h. Ditto V eather. 16 h. Frcfli breezes and fine clear Aveather. 24 h. Ditto weather ; 36' miles to the North of account. 1 h. Freili breezes and fine weather. At 2 h. we faw the land of Jajxm or Nipon to the wefl;ward from the mafl-head. 5 h. Extremes of land from S. 80° W. to N. 40° W. four or five leagues. We alfo faw a fail to the Aveft, fuppofed to be a junk. Shortened fail, and fleered ta the S. \V. with a gentle breeze, 12 U. Light breezes, and cloudy. 18 h. Made all fail. T At the 1j()11()\vs between tiiem we faw fonie wood, but in no (juantity, To the N. E. of the town tlitMoall wits indented. The extreme, South of the town, S. 79° ^V, ]()' ; opening, or river, N. 9' \V. ; land about W.iite Point, making north extreme, N. 34° E. ; Round l^Iountain, N. 58' W., 4 or .5 leagues oil' Ihorc. Moderate breezes and very fine weather. We faw feveral iilands between the South and Weil ; and at 5 h. we were abrcaft of the fouth extreme, which bore N. 30° ^^^ fix miles. This point forms the eallerii cntranee into the bay of Jeddo. Tiie Outer Illand bore S. 20° W., ten or twelve leagues. In the after- noon we were viiited l)y many filhing boats. They were 36 feet long, 8f wide, and 2| deep, very neatly built of oak, elm, and fir, very fliarp forward, and Avith a rifing ftern, m hieh projected beyond the real ftern, being a continuation of the fides. They have a falfe bottom, where they contain their fifli ; and in every refpedt they were moft ingenioufly conflrudted. They were fteered in the Chinefe manner ; rnd each boat carried one maft, with a fquare cotton fail, T -2 Thev nth. H' \l-\ ilil I' ! I ' ; m ■ ' ■ * \ 1 ■ ' ■ i"' 1 . ' 'J I ,1 \ , 1 : I i . ^ .1 'M i; 'I ! ' ' I ' '" ins i I i 140 A VOYAGE QF DISCOVERY BOOK They very liberally fuppliod us witli fiflj, without ' — v--^ feeniing to expec^t any return ; and having lUtisficd November, their curiolity, y\e parted mutually entertained. There were tAvelve men in each boat, and they made life of ikuUs inllead of oars. The night was calm ; and at day-light we had a ftrong northerly wind, "vvith fqually weather, which prevented our feeing the land till 19 h., when we dif- covered the outer iliand bearing S. 59° W. ; to our furprife, a flrong current having fet us to the eaftward in the night. At noon the fouth point of Outer Ifland, S. 8° W., five miles ; fouth extreme of Volcano Ifle, on with rocks, S. 88" W. ; diftant high mountains open, with a hummock, N. 32° W. 1 li: i:th. Strong breezes and fqually weather. After nooh we bore up for the paflTage between Volcano and Outer Ifle, which was clear of all danger. Off the weft point of Volcano Ifle are fome detached black rocks, at two or three miles diftance ; and in the diredion of S. by E. from Outer Ifland we faw another ifland, ten or twelve leagues ; and another fmall clufl:er of rocks, bearing from Outer Ifland S, W. five or fix leagues. After clearing the paflTage we hauled up to the W. N. W.j to examine the northern iflands. The night ii '■(. i| Ml' <%* ■$ ''f/'/' ' '." ' ' '< '■ > f >//i» '"// ■///I ' ^ A '// , \ ,/,,,/, / , // , .1 ,i//i'i,../ .)/,/, 1 'i,',../ /.,■ ,;i,/,i/ .\ I'lUff Ifl \ %^m^ ■'■> ^ !l / /■/ . \r//,//// , // , ///,///.,, ,r >./,/ //,, TO THE NORTH PACinC OCEAN. 141 iiiiiiit was nindnale, but we hail no (buildings throuslj- C HAP. V'l. out. AtlBli. tlic norllii'in illanils l)urc from N. E. ' — - to S. 79^ -i'^^-» iind we ilcered N. W. for the coad. Some Novcmlior. of llicfe illands wt're of little extent, "M'niiiig round hummocks : the centre ones long and narrow, Avitli white clifl's, and connected by low iltlnnutes. Tlic linoeil was the Volcano, which atlbrded a pleafuig profpert, being cultivated and clothed with verdure towards the peak, which rofe gradually to a eon- fiderable height. AVc faw no fnioke iil'ue from the crater, wdiich appeared much broken. m 'K ill' At noon the north extreme, Avhich I conceive forms the weftern point of entrance to Jeddo bay, bore N. ^"7" E. ; and the coaft extended from thence to W. by N., off fliorc five or iix leagues, of moderate elevation. Moderate breciies and variable weather, and \cry haxy, which prevented our obferving the main land dillincflly.. Near the fea it appeared low and level, with very high double land to the N. W., riliiig lo moimtains. To the North the lliore was much broken and indented, and appeared to form an opcnincr At 5 h. 2(y a low point, naking the neareft land, bore N. i E, five leagues ; and we had very dark, gloomy, threatening 1 ;tli. (ir* «>i ii I,. 1 li i; I- ' ■ I ' ^ i m 1"/ 1 !• ■' ■ 1 . h f 142 i: ' 1^^ BOOK I. 1796. November. 1 4th. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY threalcnincT weather : barometer fall.ng. At 12 h. the whul inereafcd ; and at I6 h. ^ve were under courle. and main-toplaU. At 19 h. we had Iqually ^veather, with a great deal of rain, and a hirge lea ; and foon after ^^o faw the rocks which are fituatea to the S. AV. of Outc^r llland. At fnft wc took them ior a velVel under h)w lail, till the iilands appearing dif- covered our miftake. At 20 h. GO' they bore S. 50^ E. three leagues, when wc wore ihip. At 21 h. 10' the .vind fuddcnly flrifted to W.N.W., and l>lcw very firong, and the weather began to clear aNs ay : wc Ihaped our courfc to pafs to the North of Volcano liland, between it and an iiland that appeared much broken by the inequality of its form. At noon the rocks off the call cxtr(fme of Volcano lOand bore N. 70° E., two or three miles ; Broken IQand N. 15° W. to N. 29^ W., ten milcE • very high mountani N. 22° W. Mount Fufi *. Freai gales and clear weather, with heavy fqualls of Mind. We found the paffage five or fix leagues wide * Thunberg, in his voyage to Japan, fays, Vol. III. p. 158, " At Toftwara we were nearer than any where elfe to the mountain of Fufi. The Japanefe reckon the height of it. in the afcent from the foot to the top, to be fix leagues. In fhape it refembles a fugar loaf ; its top reaches above the clouds, and is difcernible at many leagues' diftancc. betwixt TO THE NORTH PACIHC OCEAN. 143 betwixt tlicfe iflands, ami no dangers. The north CHAP. . . .VI, point of 15rokcn Ifland is rather high, with pcrpcndi- ^— -*-^ cular whitilh clilis. Oft' the S. W. part is a large de- Kovemba- tached roek, witli feveral fniall ones about it. Its grcatelt extent is in a N. E. and S. W. (hrection, four or five miles. To the N. E. of it are tuo more illands; the firft is low and flat, but the northern moft is more extended, of moderate height, and conne(!:tcd in parts by low land, which makes it appear at a diliance like feparate illands, with a confpicuous white mark on the fouthern one, and a rock laying oil it to the weil- ward. Diredly North of this iiland, at four or five miles' diftance, are the two hunnnocks before men- tioned : the northern one is the largeft. In the after- noon we had a fmc view of the famous Mount Fulij towering above the high latul, and covered with fnow. At .5 h. 30' it bore N. 48° W. ; and a large ifland from N. 38o W. to N. 50° W., four or five leagues. Land to the W. N. W. feen indiftini^ly. The wind prevent- ing our eutCiing Jeddo bay, we bore up to the South, to explore the iflands to the South of Outer Ifland, with a flrong gale at Wefl. At 18 h. 30' we faw the illands to the fouthward ; and at noon they bore from N. 20° E. to S. 80° E., ibur or five miles. Variable weather, Erefli / , iHl _j — m' 144 BOOL 1. 1796. November i\ ' A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Fic.ni breezes and dark threatening ^veatlior pre- vented our iiavin,tr a meridian oblervation i'or the latitude : and the few remarks we were able to niakt- on thcle illands were ineoniplete, on account of the weather which prevented our having any communica- tion with them ; and we plainly law they were in- habited. I iuppofed them to be the iilands of Fatfifio, fo called in the charts. The largeft bears from what 1 diftinouiih as Outer liland N. by W. and S. by E., \3 or 14 leagues. Tiie wcfternmofl one is only a high peaked liill, not more than one league in circuit ; and if it had not been inhabited I lliould have imagined it to be inacceilible. On the north point the houfes were furrounded with cultivations, laid out in ridges on the acclivity of the hill, as before remarked on Nipon. This illand is two or three miles to the fouth- weil of the other, and between them appeared a clear channel. After pafling without the peaked ille, we hauled up to examine the other ; but the \vind veer- ing to Eaft, we could not approach within three or four leagues. It extends N. W. and S. E. three or four leagues, and prefentcd a very fertile appearance. The higher parts were obfcured by the haze : its lat. r>3' G E., and 140° E. long. The appearance of the iveather gave us no hopes of a change ; we therefore fleered TO THE NORTH PACinc OCEAN great deal of rain. Stroiio" j)alcs of wind win,*].;.' j K 1 '.M r ""'' '"^^ ^'^'''y ^^-eathcr. ^ "' I lie lame weafJier \iifl. ->..^- i , , ■ ^^auju, Mith continual ram: and and fo,efa,I, w,tU onv l,ead to ti.e eaftuard. Ea.o- metei- ftill falling. ^''"° 12 h Heavy fciuall., and a large fea from the call ward. 18 h. Ditto ,.eatl.er, with ficquent fqualls and heavy rani from the S. E. whieh broke np the gale • and foon after it beeame calm, with a confufed fea and conftant rain. Set llic to])rails. 23 h. Barometer very low. 24 h. Light breezes from the north-weft, and the appearance of fair weather. The wind foon increafed to a freth gnle, will, very Lcavy fqualls; and foon after their violence obli.,ed us to furl the topfirils. We kept our win.I under eourfr, .n hopes of ieeing the land ; which we .lifcovered a[ h. sa 10 .!,e weftward, three or four leagues from us. Me then wore fl,ip, and trie.l for founding,. The weather prefente* a moft threatening appearance ■n the weftern quarter, and we hauled up the rourfes " to I "96. November. 1 6r!i i-rh i ■ i ; :'mm '. ;i 146 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK I. to receive it. It Avas not fo heavy as we expeded, ^^^ , but fliifted in a violent fquall off the land to W.N.W., .. ''96. 1 J ; ;learincr away the haze, we had a more diP.ina November. " '"^" » •' , , ^ xt t»t "C view of the land at limfet. It extended from N. Is . hj., ending in a low flat point, which bore Weft. It blew ftrong with clear weather all night, and we carried clofe-reefed topfails till midnight, when the gale in- creafmg, with a head fea, we took in the fore and mizen topfails. At 12 the land bore from N. by E. to N. N. W. ; but at day-light, to our furprife, we could not difcerii it, although the weather was fo clear as to admit our feeing a great diftance. I conjedured the land we had feen to be the fouth point of Japan. i.i i- \ U TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. CHAP. VII. Paffage to the Licnquicux IJlands.^Off For mof a, -~ Arrival at the Typa, Macao.-^Purchafe of a Schooner, ^Preparations for the further Profecution of the Voyage,^Nautical Obfcrvations in the Typa. Moderate breezes and cloiidj weatlier. Out all reefs and made ftiil, keeping our head to the weftward, clofe upon a wind. 6 li. Light airs inclining to calm, Avith dark cloudy weather. 12 h. Light airs : | paft, tacked fliip. Clear and light night. 19 h. By the obfcrvations the current has fet us S. 18° E., 31 miles thefe 24 hours. 24 h. Calm and cloudy weather. Very clear weather, with light airs of wind at times. 13 h. Light airs from the weftward. Made fail. 17 h. Exercife I great guns and fmall arms. 20 h. Current S. 18° E. 27 miles. 24 h. Very fine weather and fmooth fea. u 9 Light ■ I 116 BOO K I. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Lio-ht brcc/es and fine clear weather, 5h. As the wind veered round to the iS.L. \\v. November had dark and hazy weather. -=^'^' ]8li. Out all reel's and made fail. 21 h. Current S. 8.'3° W. 25 miles. 24 h. Brcexe increafnig, with fine weather and fniooth water. :;ift. % vi \ '• i2d. ^Moderate breezes and fmc weather. 8 h. Dark cloudy weather, with lightinng in the S. AV. quarter. 10 h. At 10 h. 30' no bottom with 115 fathoms; and we had fqually weather, with thunder, hghtning, and continual rain. Clofe-recfed the copfails, and brought to the wind, as wc could not fee one mile a-head. 16 h. The w^eather more modeiate and clear : bore up and purfued our former courfe. At 18 h. tried for foundings : no bottom 100 fathoms. Uazy fliowcrs of rain and fqually weather. 24 h. Moderate and cloudy weather. Moderate breezes and fqually weather, with heavy iliowers of rain. At 4 h. 30' faw land to the AV. N. W. ; and at 5 h. 30' the extremes extended from S. O'l" W. to N. 55° W., five or fix leagues. It appeared of mo- derate TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 119 derate elevation ; but we obferved it indil^indly from CHAiV VII. tlie gloominefs of the weather. At 8 h. we hauled our ^— -v"*-' wind for the night, M'hich continued moderate, with November frequent (bowers of rain ; and we could not reach the bottom with i 1.5 fathoms of line. 13 h. Calm and cloudy at daylight : the land bore off us W. S. AV., ten or twelve leagues ; the current having fet us to the eaftward during the night. To- wards noon a breeze fprung up, and we made fail in for land. This morning Ave were fortunate in having good obfervations for the latitude and longitude, which determined our fituation at noon very exadlly, and we had the following bearings : a faddle hill N. 24° E., and the extremes from N.40° E. to W. by N., appearing at intervals part of the land, made us con- jecture the whole to be conned;ed. The land to the W.S.W. we did not fee. 'il: Wii :■ i i* ! vtiii Frefli breezes and cloudy weather, and we flood in for the land. At 4 hours it was i'qually with rain, which olifcured it from our view. At 5 h. we tacked within two or three leagues of a blulf point, Avhich bore from us N. 12" W., but we had no foundings with 80 fathoms. To the N. E. of the point the land ap- peared to leccde confiderably, leaving the prolped- of an opening ; but the imperfe6t view we had, 23d. 1' owmg U\ iiM ! ;:ri i-, '.' f .:f; 'ii i''^ ; 150 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK o^Ying to the badnclk of the wcathrr, prevented our ^', making any fatisCae^tory oblervations. A\'e had ibong v'.',^t.r breezes, with a liead i'ea all night; and at daylight Avc had the wind to the North of M'elt, with fine clear weather; and at U) h. oO' we law the land ex- tending from N. 40° W. to N. Oj' W. from the deck. ]Made all fail. 23 h. Current N. 70° E. 30 miles. 24 h. Strong breezes and clear. Land feen bear- ing N. 60" W. 12 or 13 leagues. 24th. Strong breezes and fine weather. At 4 h. 20' the extremes of land from N. 55° W. to Weft, juft vifible fronx the deck. At 15 h. the land extended from N. 70° W. to N. 63° W. We judged thefe lands to be the continuation of coaft ; but the ftrong wind from the N. W. prevented our nearer approach. Tliey ap- peared to be very high in detached parts. I ^ 1!^" We tried for foundings all night unfuccefsfully, and the breeze was now moderate. At 19 h. 30' we were well up with the extreme fonthern land feen Jaft night, bearing S. 80'' W., and the north extreme N. 12° W. ; and we faw high diftant land to the S. W., apparently unconnected with the other. We fteered towards a deep bay ; and at noon we were three or four *i. TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 15^ four leagues from the fliore, which appeared higli and chap. rugged, much broken into ridges ; in general bare of >-XIi-» wood and rocky, but fonie of the hills were clothed November, with wood up to their fummits. The extremes bore from N. 75° W. to N. r W. ; llarboard point of bay N. 53° W., two or three leagues ; Volcano Mountain N. Oy ^\\', high diftant land S. W., ten or twelve leagues. Light breezes and variable weather. The volcano, which is fituated in the interior parts of the bay, emitted vafl columns of fmokc; and we obferved feveral boats fiOiing in fliore, and a junk (landing into the bay. At o h. the extremes bore from N. 18° E. to S. 75° W. ; centre of bay N. 40° W., five or fix miles ; low land, juft vifible from the deck, S. 68° W. ; diftant land S. 42° W. ; and more low land, feemingly conneded with it, S. 25" W. We fteered to the fouth- ward and eaftward upon a wind. At daylight or 19 h. we faw the low land bearing S. 67° W. : the fame fet laft evening S. 27° W. ; the extremes, North of the bay, N. 27° W. We ftood in fliore for the low land, which was live or fix leagues, having moderate winds and cloudy weather. At noon the extreme. North of the bay, N. 15° W., and fouth extreme N. 72° W. ; and 25th. ,il . 1'. 1 ril f I- ni Li 1 ^'? DO OK I. 1796. November. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY and the fame difiant high land S. .^.S" W. ; ihr other cxtrcnie, on m illi centre of low land, five or i\\ leagues. Tlie voleanie bay feeined to be capacious, and moil probably terminated with good lliellcr, tor, after tak- ing a northerly dirci'-lion, it turned to the eaftward. C'urrent north 25 miles. IModeratc and variable winds Iron) the S. E. No foundinus. . 26th. Moderate breezes and faic weather, with fmootli water. As we approached the (liore, more low land appeared ; and at 5 h. we were within four or five miles of it, when it extended from S. 20° AV. to N. 75" W., of little elevation, with a fandj fliore, and covered with fcattered trees. The diftant high land ftiil ap peared over it, in the diredion of S. 50° W., at a con- fiderable diftance. The extremes. North of the low land, bore from N. 68° W. to N. 17° E., near the north point of the bay; and we had 45 fathoms. In this fituation we ^ould not determine the connet^ion of the low land with the diftanf high land over it, which is moft probably the cafe : but the opening to the North of N. 75° W. was fo much contrafted, and making in low points from each fliore, I conceived the whole to be joined, leaving in this indented part fome harbour we could not perceive, and M'hich we were 4 prevented i ;:|! TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN l.revcnto,l ,l.ecr„,i„i„g hy ,1.,,, ,,i,„l i„ tl.o mon.,„. chap vcenns .o the 8 W. M ,vc couKI not fetch the («„: tZiL l'">efl. breccs a„d f,,,.„l).v throMening .oather, ♦-i J\. ot account. Frefi. breezes and cloudv ^scatll(•r ^ Moderate b,-ee.es, fine M„.U.er, aud f.nooth wa- 37t1i. Clear ftar-light. In Arrowfiniths chart of 1791 arc i"any iflands laid down, nearly i„ our pr^fent fituation at noon, faid to be difcovered by the Spaniards. W^ faw nothing to lead us to fuppofe we were in the vicinity of any current fince our laft obfervations, for the time-piece (being the interval of three davs^ N. 68°E. 38 miles. ^ ^ 22 li. Ventilated the fliip with the foul-air ex^ tra6lor. 24 h. Ditto weather. Tropic birds and flyine Mi feen. 38th. km 6 h. Dark and gloomy appearance in the N W quarter, which foon produced a change of wind, and we 29th. ^ It- i;V4 i. 1796. November. 30th. December ift. II i A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY wc ftood to the wclhvartl. I.nt. ;i8° 10' K., and lon^ 135" 15 E. at the time. Frelh breezes and cloudy weather. Gh. Shortened lail. 12 h. Tried for I'ouuduigs in the night. 18 h. Dark cloudy weather, with ihowcrs of rain. We fleered to the wellward, to fall in with the illand of Great Lieuehieux. 24 h. Ditto weather. A fniall land bird and a hawk feen. Frefli breezes and cloudy weather. 6h. Shortened fail, and founded hourly during the night. No bottom. 12 h. Very cloudy weather : at daylight we made fail; and at22h. 30m. we faw the ilhmd of Lieuehieux. At noon we had fqually and rainy weather, and we hauled up to the 8. W. being five or fix leagues off. From the unfavourable weather, we could difcern very little. The fliorc appeared low and even, the weftern point falling abruptly t(3 the fea. It extended from S. 76° W. to Weft ; and we had no foundings with 105 fathoms. 24 h. Trefli breezes, with cloudy and fqually weather. Frefli Kit- 10 TTIE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 155 I'rclli hrcrxrs and cloiulv MTnthor, with (ViMniont cilAr Vll. l'f|niillN atU'iulcd Mitli rain, Avliich at times ol)lrinc(l -— --/-i^ till' land. il appeared l)r()kLii, tiie liiglier parts Dcnmbcr connected l)V low land ; and to tlie Sonlli it was well eultival(Ml and diveiiilicd i)_v woods: lowaiils the lea if role in clayey elitVs of a brigkt yellow with iandy breaches, ^^'e kept u|)(Mi a wind to ihe S. W., and at .)h. 1.3 in. the extremes extended from S. 80° \V. to N. !24" \\. I'otu' or five leagues diliant. The eoalt liill prelenled the fame level appearance in general, very low. At 12 h. wc; were in the lat. of 20'^ N., and as 1 fuppofed near tl'.e Ibuthern part of the illand. "We plied under ealy fail till daylight. 'J'he night Mas moderate, with fomc rain; and at Ki h. the wintl fuddenly Ihiftcd to the N. W. ([uarter, Avith Apially, imfeltled ucather. At ]f)h. tlu; nearefl land bore X. ']()^ "W. three leagues, and the extremes from N. 10° K. to N. ()?' W. ^\'e law no other land in any di- redion, although the charts lay down Ibuie illands in this fituation. At 120 h. we law feveral ilUuids to the AV. N.Vr. : the outer one, forming like a gunner's ([uoin AV. by X. at 21 hours. I I M At noon the Ibuth j)art of the illand Licuehieux K. 4(? E. to N. Gih E. iix or fevcu leagues. A low illand, North eight leagues ; iVom whence they ex- X 2 tended i?!-'i W m' '! I5(i A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK tended to the Quoin N. 3\° W. in Numbci- 5.: we ^' fuppofed them to be the Matclii lllaiKls. Very hazy December, weathei'. 3d. Frefli gales and dark weather prevented our making any other remarks on Great Licuchieux and the Mad- jicofemah Iflands, but we (leered a courfe to fall in Avith fome other illands between them and Formofa. At 2h. 15' we loft fight of the Gunner's Quoin, beanng N. by E. The gale increafed witli heavy fqualls of wind and rain, yet the barometer continued ftationary. At 9h. we hauled upon a wind under a foiefail and clofe-reefcd main-topfail. In the morning it was more moderate, with a large fca from the northward ; and we bore away at 1() h. 15', having clear weather. At 21 hours we faw low land to the weftward, and at 23 h. 40' rounded a reef which extends to the eaft- ward of the S. E. point of this iiland, compofed of rocks above and und >r water ; and we had 60 fathoms coral bottom. From the maft-hcad an iiland fuppofed to be feen bearing North from the reef, and another to the N. W. : and a hummock on with S. E. point N. 37° W. probably joined with the iiland. Juft within the point to the weftward is a fandy ba3', and above it we difcovered a village fcattered amongft the trrrs^ TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN, trees, with fomc cultivated fpots near it. At noon the S. E. extreme N. 9° W. two or three miles. The other extreme N. 85° W. very low. The reef N. 22' E. 45 fathoms corally bottom. Strong bree^^es and very fqually, but clear and pleafant weatiier. Strong breezes and fair, with heavy fqualls irom the Jand, that prevented our riflving any communication with the Hiorc : we therefore ranged the fouth fide at the diftance of two or three miles. This ifland is univerfally low. On the tops of the rifing grounds were foinc groves of trees, but the country in general was covered with heath or coarfe grafs, and feveral liabitations were fcattered along fliore ; we alfo ob- icrved fmoke arifing in feveral parts. At 2 h. we had run the extent of the ifiand, and were abreaft of a linall iflet which is off the weft point ; between it and the Ihore was a fmall reef, ard between North and N. 28° W. ue faw more land. An e .tenfive re6f was fituated between thefe lands, as we faw the water frequently break ; and we had 18 fathoms corally bottom. At 5 h. 15' we were within five or fix miles of a fmall ifland, bearing from N. 65° VV. to N. 85^ W., and high land to the W. S. W. At 18 h 45' the fmall ifland bore N. 66'^ W. four or five leagues, and Uir other ifland from N. J^. E. to E. S. E. ; and the hlffh o 1796. Deccmbn . i I : y ]'n j- ■ - 1 ■ . ml {1 , : ! , :■' ■ '■* ' ''■ j|i| '1 ■ ~ ■ '.?■:: !!■■ If! i » ,". ):-,! A VOYAGE OF WSCOVETlY (■ 158 BOOK high Umd extended from S. 70' W. to N. 87' W., foi V— ^ which Avc iteered.^ At 22 h. wo loll figlit of the ihuil! December, i^and, and at noon svc Avere three or four miles off tlie high land, Avhieh appeared in general well clothed with wood, and much broken ; the hills being eonned^ed by fandy ilthmufes. The S. E. point was low. 5tli. A'erv fme weather enabled us to range tl;c lliore at a little dillance ; it lies in the dircdion of N. N. K. and S. S. W,, and near the S. E. extreme we obfer\ ed an extenfivc village. A fmall reef lies ofl' the point, and as we opened we difeovered another iiland bearing S. 75° W. from it, and falling abruptly to the fea. At 2h. 30 m. this head bore S. 88° W. ; the village point N. E. ; oj)ening to fea between the iiland N. 7° E. ; and we perceived two rocks in the midft of breakers N. 8()° ^V. and S. 75° W. three or four miles, and we had no bottom with 100 fathoms. AVe bore up and palled \\ilhout them, and foon after we l\iw feveml low, flat iflands, extending from the large iilands, con- neded with each other by coral reefs ; at leaft fo mr.eh fo in appearance as to preclude any clear jxiilage between them. At 5 h. 50' we approached an iiland of no elevation, bearing from S. 50° to S. 56° W. t' o or three leagues. The abrupt head N. 65° W., and in the TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 1.59 liio pafTage between two linall hummocks bearino" chap. ° VII Is. 83° W. The low illaiids from N. 6° W. to N. 40° ^y. thiT .3 or four miles ; and from N. 18° E. to N. 40° E., on M-ith the land about Village Point. At 18 li. 30m. theifland fet toS.W. laft night, now bore N. N. W. i A\., but I'qually and hazy weather prevented feeing the high land till igh. 45,, when the head bore North about five leagues, and the fame land extended to N. 34° E. ; a fmall opening N. 15° E. Low Illand N. 45° E. to N. 60 E. five or fix miles. The hummocks N. 27° W. ; at 20 h. 30m. they bore North, and we loll fight of the land. Erefh gales, with dark, cloudy weather and continual rain, prevented our feeing more than three OF four leagues in any diredtion ; and the wind kept increafing to a ftrong gale. At 15 h. Ave furled the topfails, and brought to the wind under a forefail and mizen-ftayfail till daylight. >■■;..'■;;''■"' •' '' ' ' - Bore away, and fet the topfails; very fqually weather, with lliowers of rain, which at times entirely obfcured the horizon. At 21 h. 30' through the haze, we faw the land of Formofa two or three leagues, rifing abruptly liom the lea to a prodigious height. An uncommon fall of water defcendino- 7 from 1796. December. 6th. f i ip Di ' i' ' Hi!|^ I Go » -.t A VOYAGE OF DISCO\^ERY BOOK from the mountains in a perpendicular diredlion, '-"'^y'—^ pointed out our vicinity to the land l)efore we ^796- . December, law it. . ... iJ^ nh. As we fteered in the dircdlion of the coafl;, the high land of Formofa appeared at intervals, when tlie f(|ualls cleared away ; and at 40h. 30m. the fouthern part bore S. 65° W., four or fix leagues : to the North it con- tinued entirely obfcured. The gale ftill continued . with little variation, when being bv eitimation, at 8h. 30 m., in the latitude of 22° 45' N., we brought to the wind under low fail for the night. At 12 h. wore iliip; and at 18h. 30m. the extremes of Formofa extended from N. N. \\^ to Weft ; an ifland of mode- rate elevation S. 80" W., four leagues ; and the ifland of Botol Tobago Zima S. 6" W., ten or twelve leagues. The gale had confiderably abated ; and we made fail to pafs between Botol Tobago and the land of For- mofa, which we could fcarcely difcem for the thick haze over the high land. At 21 h. the Low Ifland bore N. 50° W., four leagues; extremes of Botol Tobago S. 23° W. to S. 27° W. Thefe iflands bore ftearly N. by E. and S. by E. of each other. At noon the extremes of Botol Tobago South to S. 23° E., eight or ten miles ; Low Ifland North, on with Formofa ; ex- treme point of Formofa land, making low, S. 70° W. Soon 10 THE NORTH P.^CIFIC OCEAK. 161 Soon artcr wc obibrved the iiland of Little Tobajjo CHAP. VII. bcai'ing iioni tlie eall point ol" the great iiland S. 26° E., '—"■.-—» Avliich is nearly the direction of the north fide. December. At 1 h. 1.3' liitlle Tobago open with fouth extreme S. 41" E. At 3 h. 15 the north extreme of Great liotol Tobago bore Eaft to the other extreme 8. 80° ¥..; Formola from North to S. 60° W. At 5 h. 30' the centre of Botol Tobago Zima N. 75° E. ; and the fouth extreme of Formofu S. 78° W., two or three miles: and at j h. 4.3' it bore N. 80" W., on with a dillant point. At 6 h. it bore W. N. W. i Weft, two or three miles. It was fine moon-light ; and as we had not leen the Xcle Rete Rocks before dark, \\c lliaped our courfes (as per log) to pafs between them and Formofa, founding, as per column, under our double-reefed topfails. At 7 h. 30' we had 35 fathoms, gravelly bottom : the extremes of Formofa E. N. E. to N. by AV., three or four miles off lliore. At 8 h. the land from N. | E. to E. by N. ; and we hauled u[) to the N. W., plying under iiul till day-light, when the extremes of Formofa extended from N. 10 E. to X. 60^ E. ; a very higli round mountiun N. 10^ li^., otf ihore three or four leagues. 'I'he wind increafed with heavy fqualls, and Ave Itood to the S. E., exne<5lir.g to fee the Vele Rete Rocks ; but at 20 h. the gale had Y reduced 8th. iuiiii 1 1 :^t m 0 -i' ; '1 : '] m u\ 10 l()'2 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK reduced us to courfes and iiuiin-topfail, and feeing ^'^ nothing of them, we ftood to the N. W. with a ftrong De'Jmber. galo. At noon the extremes bore from N. 20^ E. to N. 70° E., about fix or ci<^ht leagues. 9th. Strong breezes and cloudy wcathei, with fliowcrs of rain. 3 h. More moderate. Set the topfails. At 4 h. 30' the extremes of Formofa Iwre from N. 50° E. to N. 75° E. ; and we faw no more of it, owing to the glcomy weatker. 12 h. Frelh breezes and cloudy. No bottom with 100 fathoms. Strong breeze and dark cloudy weather. Swell from the northward. loth. Strong breezes and cloudy weather. 16 h. We pafled feveral Chinefe fifliiiig-boats ; and for fear of running over them we carried eafy fiiil till day-light, and a light at the bowfprit. At 18 h. llrong breezes and hazy : made fail. At 22 h. 30 we faw Pedro Blanco bearing. N. 63° AV. 24 h. Frefli breezes and very hazy. Pedro Blanco N. 23° E., three or four miles. ;uh. 4 h. Saw the Lima iflands to the weftward. 5 h. Dark hazy weather. Double-reefed the top- !W TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. j^o fails, and j)ropnied for anchoring. AtTh. wccamc chap. to in 20 ialhonis, clayey bottom, l)et\vecii ilic ifland of J^ Poo Tory and the Grand Lima, bearincr from N. E a^'K . c, Ty , ^ ® »'"ni x^.xj. December. to i^. ih. ; the padage to the fea being open in that angle from Poo Tory Ij miles. Till. The Mind gradually increafed fo ^ ftrong gale, but ^vc rode very eafy with a Mdiole cable out"! Ill the forenoon it was more moderate, with cool and plcalknt weather. After mullering the iliip's company, the officers and feamen were informed that it Avas ncceifary tliey fliould deliver up to me their journals, remarks, or whatever drawings, Sec. that related to our proceedi.igs fince the firft of September ult., and enjoining them alfo to fecrecy fmce that period. Several China boats were failing among the illands, notwithftanding the gale, which iaiduced us to make the fignal ibr a pilot. i % I : m 1 I; N . Soon afternoon a Chlnefe boat came on board, and agreed to j)ilot the lliip to Macao for 40 dollars. At 1 h. we got underway, and made fail to the weftward. At 6h. we were well up with the pallage between the illand of Lantoe and Laf-fammu : and we came to an i- 2 anchor I r.h. h< t \ I'' mP I Ml'' 1 .1 164 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK anchor in 13 fatlioins, muddy bottom. The niglit 1, 1796. December. was moderate, and In the mornins]; at day-hght we had ftrong brec;ies from tlic Nortli. \\v worked through the pafliic^e with fome difficuitv, having got under way at day-light for that jnn-pofo ; l)ut the violence of the fqiuills occafionetl the llrp to refulc (lays twice, and avc were obliged to wear. Our pilot in Ihefc calcs was of little ufe, for he did not feem any way acquainted with our movements, only rc- quefting to anchor immediately. This channel from the Lima iflands is clear of all danger; and, if ne- ccflary, you can always bring up in lefs than 20 fathoms. It is univcrfally fre(iuented in the N. E. monfoon. .1 , ' ! After Aveathering Laf-fammu, Avhich bears nearly Weft of Macao, we made a ftrait courfe ; and at 22 h. we came to in the roads in 4 fathoms, foft muddy bottom : the fort bearing N. 65° W., and Cahrita point S. 20° W., off Ihore two or three miles. M'e found the Crefcent, Company's packet, riding here, havin"^ arrived very lately from England with dif- patches. By her we had the futisfa6tion of being in- formed of the principal events which had occurred fmce our leaving Europe. Having been abfent from thence twenty-two months, our curiofity was highly o-ratified. TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. gratified by the coinmunicatioii. Our people were in chap. j)erre(t health ; and we iiad only to lament the lofs of .JL^L^ one nnin by ficknels hnce we liiiled from Plymouth December. Sound. On our arrival I fcnt an ofFiecr to wait upon the Governor. In the afternoon the officer returned from the Governor, who politely offered us every civility in his power; and the following day he fent off the mailer of the port to carry the iliip into the harbour of the 'I'ypa. On getting under way wc fainted the fort with eleven guns, and they returned an equal number. At funfet we came to in the harbour; and the next morning moored the fliip, with her llream anclior to the weflward, in 4| fathoms. The town of Macao jufl open to us ; and the harbour N. 25° W., two or three miles. It was the end of the month before I had fufil- ciently recovered the ufe of my arm to leave the fliip, when hearing there was a fmall veffel in Lark's bay for fale, 1 tliought it would be highly advantageous to the voyage to i)urchafe her ; and on an examina- tion, finding llie was very well calculated for the purpofe, I made the agreement on the fpot, and ga\(3 the maftcr L. 1500 fterling for her. She was fchooncr- riggod, ■'1;^^ iC^j A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY cooiv rigo;cil, and rcgiaciTd at 87 tons. On the SOlU .-J^w joined us in the 'Vypiw on wliich day arrived Hoar-' Dcccntr. Admiral Kaincr, in his Majelb's lliip Sull'ulk, with the SAvil't iloop of war from And)oyiia, havino; conic IVoni thence through Gilolo pafl'age, and I)oihkI to jMadrals on the coall of Coromandel. Tour honie- ward-))ouud Indiamen joined them in IMacao roads from Canton, and failed under their convoy on the 7th of January 1797. The weather throughout the lail month was cold and plealant, varying in the night, the wind from North to N. E. in ihe day, with fine weather, but very hazy, and generally blowing ftrong from funrife till funfet, when it ufually moderated. The carpenters were bufily crpploycd caulking the lliip, and repairing onr other defects where moft necelTary. Throughout this month we were employed repairing Our rigging, and in other refpeas refitting the Ihip, and repairing the defeds of the fchooner, altering the Hep of her main-mail, and making new tails both lor her and the Ihip. On the 18th fired 21 guns in compliment to her Majelty's birth day. The 20th and 21ft were very fqually, TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. Kir fquallv, with rain; and at times foggy weather. An ^{;\^^' Enghllj brig, called the Kxpeiiment, was nearly loll ^— -.-*-' in the late blowing weather, and only favt^d by the January. aflillance of onr boats. The winds were very regular from the N. K. (juarter, and we had, with very little variation, eonitant dry and cool weather. Having completed the caulking of the fliip, the February. carpenters were employed in repairing the copper under water, and other neceflary avocations. Chinefe painters were engaged painting the fliip and boats ; and the (liip's company completing the rigging, and receiving fome provilions from Macao, viz. bifcuit, callivances, rice, and arrack ; failmakers at work on Ihore, oppohte the fhip, where we pitched fome tents for their conveniency, and others for the aftronomer to regulate the going of a time-piece we had upon a trial. ^Vinds and weather continued much the fame ; and at intervals when the wind was variable, we had fome fliowers of rain. ■ The Governor of Macao, with fevcral gentfemen,. dined on board. His Excellency was faiuted with, eleven guns. The month fet in with variable and fqually weather, March, attended with frec^uent rain. The fchooner, on the 8th, id I J ,i p! '■ I 168 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVKRY BOOK 8tl), went up to the lioca Tigris, to bring us down ^— ^— -- lomc fioies and (alt provilions, which i\w. was to iv- JNhiich. ccivc thciv by a chop boat IVoni tlic; Eail India lliip:: lying in Canton river, witli orders by no means to enter the IJogue, for (ear of giving otienee to the Chinefe gov(M'nujent. Several oflieers took this op- jiortunity of vifiting Canton for a lew days. i;!.r 3t]i. A Spanilli brig arrived I'rom Manilla, and went into INTaeao harbour. As the weather permitted, we com- pleted the Avatering ; and in other nfpec^s prepared for fea. In the jnorning of the 18th the fchooner re- turned fiom J5ocea Tigris ; and we received b}' her cordage, canvas, pitch, tar, c^c. ■with fait provifions, and 20 chefts of tea. The middle and latter jiarts of the month the Avind was chiefly from the S. Tl. quarter, with rain. On the 26'tli failed a fmall cutter, called the Dragon, for the N. W. coaft of America. The following davs we had a areat deal of bad Aveather, Avith thunder and lightning ; and we parted our llrcam cable. "NVind at South and S. S. AA'. ^^uI. The Oiip and fchooner being [K-rfedly ready for fea, we only waited iavourable Avinds to j)roeeed out ot" the 'i'ypa, and to receive fomc more naval ftores fioni liie r.ati hidianien lately arrived, lor Avhich I was ;ti;> TO Tim NORTir PACIFIC OCEAN. ir^f) was n o,;i ill oblige cl to Iciul the I'choonor up to Anfon's chap. " ° ' VII. I»ay. • s— .-^ April. The Nveallior roiitimicd inodoratc^ and j)loarant from the N. E. quarlcr ; aiul on tlie lOth wc warped out of the 'J'ypa, and came to in the entrance, in 5 fathoms; Macao fort upon the hill bearing N. A")" W., and Cal)arita point S. 10° W. two miles : the bar fort being juft ihut in witli the |)oint which forms tlie flarboard entrance into tlie Typa. This anclioragc aj)pearcd to mc moll eligible for the conveniency of communicatintij with the town, and for running into the harbour when nccefl'ary ; and if you lay two miles more to the eailward, you liave uo more water. In this fituation you may water your fhip with great ejife on cither of the illands going in, attending to the tides. "We had on board fifteen months' provifions between the veflels, and confidered lurfelves perfectly well equipped for the profecution of the voyage : our crew being in perfect health, as when we arrived. During our long refidence we had been conftantly fup- plied with frefli beef or pork, and plenty of vegetables. The people had alfo bread baked for them every day. Having brought out a copper oven with us for that z purpofe, '" I, i i 'r\ 6 \ ^'.1 170 1797- April. o C3 O o o A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY purpofe, it was now made ufe of, being fet. up on lliore, \vherc the tents were pitched. The Chinefe who rcfided on the illand gave us no moleftation : on the contrary, they Avere of great fervice to us, by lend- ing us the ufe of their rope walks, and affifting us to. make cordage at a reafonable confideration. The laft three months I refided chiefly on ftiorc, completing a general furvey of the Kerule illands, and tranfmitting a copy of them, Avith my proceed-^ inos and future intentions, for the information of their Lordfliips. 0 I fliould be extremely remifs were I to negled ex- preiTing the particular politenefs and marked attention I received from Mr. Drummond and Mr. Arthur, two gentlemen of the EngJifli fadory ; and to acknow- ledge, in the higheft terms, the refpedful good conduA of the Governor, Seignor Don de Ponto. The following nautical obfervations were made here- by Mr. Crofley, the aftronomer, who had a tent pitched in a fmall bay, at the back of the village near Rocky Head in the Typa. Latitude by meridian obfervations, aa" 9' 40" N. LopgUttdp mean of obferved diftances, 113° 3a' 8" E. By. TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. j^i By Tingle altitudes of the fun, taken by Mr. Croflcy, CHAP. Is" 4 J, box timc-pieee (made by Mi-. Arnold), was ^^J^ now for mean time 7 h. 32' 42M1, on the 8th of April Ap?!!.* at noon, and gaining on mean time 0''.4I9 per day. The tides were fo variable between 9 h. and II h., full and change, there was no abfolutely fixing the time of high water. Pleafant breezes, and fair weather from the north- ward. In the morning we got under way, and fainted the fort with 11 guns ; they returned an equal number. We made fail to the eaftward, towards the Lantoe paiTage ; but the ebb tide having made ftrong, we could not weather the fmall ifland of Chang-cheou, and were obliged to bring up clofe to it in 4| fathoms within half a mile of its northern point ; Macao bearing Weft, and Linting Ifland N. 15° E, In the evening, with a light air from the fouthward, we weighed, and foon after came to in five fathoms. At day-light Ling-ting bore N. 27° E., and the fouth point of Lantoe S. 60" E. In this fituation we waited the return of the fchooner, with the wind fouth-eafterly. Variable weather, with heavy rains from the South, and light winds. nth. 1 2th, 13th. i! \l.tm z2 Same i- I m BOOK I. 1797- April 14th. ijth. ;6th. ri- A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY, &c. Same weather. In the night the fchooner arrived, and in the forenoon we got under way in company with her ; having hght airs, but trifling, which obhgcd us to anchor. Light breezes, and fair wind at S. E. With the ebb tide in the afternoon we got under way, and worked through the paffage of Lantoe. In the night we came to, and heaving up the next morning, we broke the iron flock of the anchor. At 8 A. M. we came to in ten fathoms ; La-toe Point N. 46° W. three or four leagues. Frefli breezes and hazy weather from the eaftward. With the tide in the afternoon we got under way, and turned to windward. At dark we came to. A large fwell came in from the eallward ; and in tho morning the fchooner having parted her cable, we remained at anchor till they recovered theirs. 'A r VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. BOOK n. Tranfaaions during our Second Expedition to the North through the Straits of Sangaar, and on our Return home by the Coast of Corea aad the Yellow Sea to Madras. CHAP. I. Delay of the Voyage artftngfrom the Prevalence of Eajierly Winds. JJland of Lamay — Off Formofa.—Land at the IJJand ofPa-chw fan.-^Obfervations on it.-^The Ship unfortunately wrecked on «• Coral Reef near the IJland of Typinfan, -t\ LIGHT air from the AVcft on the IQtli. carried us book ii. in light of Poo-tory. At dark it failed us, and we au- ^^^' chored in 14 fathoms. . '797- , April ipth. Moderate fA m\\\ i i,t • I ij ♦ r ' I m li mf ■-': i^i^^r |1 i'-i lift. 3 ad. ^.^^ A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY Moderate breezes and hazy weather, which foon __. inereafed to a thiek Ibg; and we had the wind '797- cafterly. Having weighed foon after noon, we Itoocl '''''''"' "er the Lima lilands, and taeked clofe i. the paifage Mhich divides the outer iflands; and before dark we came to an anehor near Poo-tor.y .n 13 fathoms. The fame weather ftiU continued from the L.IS. J^., and fo foggy as to prevent our feeing the points which form the pafliige to fea between Poo-tory and the Grand Lima. I moft fincerely lamented this delay fo contrary to my expeaations. Nor had we the leall profpea of a change of wind to permit our getting to fea, the breeze and fog ftiU continuing as before. On Sunday we got under way, the fog having difperfed ; and we fetched well up with the eaft extreme of the Great Lima, tacking clofe in with a fmall bay to the Weft of the point, where are feveral houfes. As we ftood for Poo-tory we had fquaily and thick weather from the N. E. quarter ; and feemg no profpea of clearing the paflage before dark, we bore up, and came to an anchor in 15 fathoms ; extreme point of Poo-tory bearing N. 80" E. one mile, and the extreme of Grand Lima S. 45^ E. It blew ftrong in the night, and we had a large fwell which TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. wliich ftill continued, notwithftanding the wind mode- rated the following day. As the wind kept invariably fixed in the eaftern quarter, we employed the boats watering at the head of a fraall bay, within a rocky iilet on the weftern part of Poo-tory. Many fifliing- boats took flielter in it for the fame purpofe, as they found good anchorage, and protedion from' the eafterly winds; the foundings were regular from five to^ two fathoms. Frefli breezes and clear weather, v*rith the wind at N..N. E., induced me to get under way, notwith- ftanding the heavy fwell againft us. We plied to the eaftward ineffeaually all the afternoon, and finding we could not weather the Grand Lima before night, and the anchorage being ineligible for the fchooner, we were once more neceflitated to bear up for our former birth, and came to in 12 fathoms ; the point of Poo-tory E. S. E. three or four miles. Throug.iout the night we had conftant lightning from the weft- ward.. The morning was calm, with pleafant weather; and foon after noon a breeze of wind fpringing up fjom the S. W. quarter, we immediately got under way, and made fail to the eaftward, with the ebb tide in our favour. The fchooner not being able to weather Poo-tory, (he pafled to the North of it, and ■ 6 Soutli. m' I 1. , 1- ■' r t 1 fM 3,1 ; : 17(3 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK South of AVay-loang, luniiM ^^ t^'^'iH' paiVagc, and no ^I;^ founcUngs with 13 or U iHlhoms, and berore dark Ivu. joined us in tlic ofling. . I behcve it is univevi\illy acknowledged tlic change of the nionfoon takes place in theib leas in April, or at leaft the winds are variable ; but in no one inllance have we experienced the obi'ervalion, having had a regular eallerly wind without the (hiallell variation, to our great mortification and dilappointment : for it in tlie firft place very much retarded our voyage to the North; and in the next by the prevalence of the eafterly winds and foggy weather, which con- curred materially to have affeded the health of our people, who were univerfally affliaed with the dyfen- .tery, and fome of them in a violent degree. Wo could only attribute it to the hazy and confined ftate of the atmofphere, which feldom permitted the fun to appear. Yet there were fome who fufpeaed our complaints to proceed from the water we took on board in the Typa. Be that as it may, I never faw better water in my life, or more care taken in procuring it. In refpedt to our flock, we were more at a lofs to conjedure the caufe of their malady, and in confequence not being able to afford them .any relief; we lofl the whole of our pigs, that had been our TO IHE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. ^^^ our conflant ftock rmcc leaving Otaheite, and ac- chap. cultomed to their diet. Light breezes and fair ucathcr ; fianding out to fea betvvcen Poo-tory and tiie Great Lema. At 4 li. 30 m. the call point of the Great Lema bore South three or lour iniJes, and we fleered Eall to go South of Pedro Blanco. 12 h. Moderate weather, with lightning to the northward. 18 h. Very little wind : at 6 A.M. wc faw Pedro Blanco, bearing N. 18° E. three or four miles; having run 3.9 miles from tlic time the Great Lema bore South. Dark cloudy weather, and fqually ; the wind fuddenly lliifted to the eaftward. At 22 h.' tacked, and Hood to the northward. 24 h. Moderate breezes, and very hazy weather prevented our feeing Pedro. Frefli breezes and dark cloudy weather. At 2 h we faw Pedro Blanco N. 15^ W. ; and at 4 h. ^we pailed on the eaft fide of it, within half a mile, and we had 22 fathoms, fine grey fand. AVe ftood in fliore three leagues, but the gloomy weather prevented our feeuig the land. At 6 h. we tacked, having 14 fa- ^A thorns. f. ^97- April 28th. 29th. I Fl fi m 'fj!; ■\ 170. u '797' April. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK tlioms. At7li. the rock bore off us South, four or *— -.— ^ live niilcs. I'i 1). Scjually ar.l \ triable, with frc([utnt rain. 20 h. Tacked and Itood to the North. 24 h. Thick weather. Pedro Bhmco N. 52° W., three or four leagues. ,('1' ^oth. Moderate breezes and hazy weather. At 1 h. 30 m. \vc faw the coail of China to tlie N. W. ; and at 2 h. Pedro Blanco bore Well, three or four leagues. 6 h. The land extended from N. .33° W. to E. N. E., four or five leagues ; and we had 13 fathoms water. At 6 h. 30 m. tacked with a very light air of wind. 23 h. Frelli breezes and dark gloomy weather. At 22 h. 30 m. tacked in 36 fathoms, fandy bottom. No fun vifible this morning. 7^ K 'I May I ft. Freili breezes and very hazy weather. Our found- ings gradually- decreafed as we approached the land. The coaft of China bore from N. 40° E. to Weft, which extreme made a fmall iiland. At | paft we tacked in 14 fathoms, fou: or five leagues from the lliore. 17 h. Tacked fliip ; and at 20 h.- we faw the land indiftindly through the haze : and at noon we tacked in $ *i._ TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 179 Frcfli gales uiul thick liazy wcnllicr, with coiuinuul rain. 6" Ii. The huzc cleared away for a ihovt time, wliic'i gave us an indiiiinc^ view ol' the land t(. tlic norlliward. tlirec^ ov lour leagues. Hall" paft, we wore iliip and flood to the S. K. 12 1). IJitto gales, with tliunder, lightning, and very lieavy ndn, and a confufed head Tea, obhged n> to take in the lore and niizcn topfails. Half paft, wore lliip : und the wind was moderated and variable. «et the (opiiiiis ; the gale, to all a])pearanee, having broke up. 1797. May. in the centre of a large bay; tlic points forming it CHAP. N. 7r E. and 8. 72° W. : an entrance to a river? or — - opening for boats, bore N. 35^ E. We had 10 fathoms, two miles oft' lliore. Olf each extnnie avc obferved a reef of rocks above water. 24 h. Very jiazy weather. 'Jlic furfacc of ihe fea was covered with innumerable fifliing-bnats that went out of this fandv bav. Frefli breezes and thick liazy weather, with rain. 17 h. Strong f)rcezes, witJi heavy rain. 'Jacked fliip, and double-reefed the topfails. 24 li. Ditto we;»ther. Clofe-rcefed the topfails. 3d. 'I I P ) Sir ^If fjrji 1 ill! 111 , ii i; ;■ i k II' '^'^ 111^ II 180 £00 K II. «797- May 4th. ;ih. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 24 h. Dark and threatening weather. Frefh breezes and dark liazy weather, with the ap- pearance of heavy fqualls round the horizon, which produced incclVant rain and a calm for a few hours. 7 h. Light airs, with rain. Tacked fliip. 9 h. Tacked llii]). 16 h. The wind fuddenly iucreafed to a ilrong gale from the fouthward, which rcchiced us to our courles and main-topfail ; the fchooner being prcficd with fail to keep way with us. Towards noon it gradually cleared away to the North and AVell, and we had more moderate Aveathcr. This agreeable change ad- mitted our obferving the latitude, for the firft time fmcc our departure from ]\Iacao. Sounded 25 fa- thoms, line ilind. » The wind left us fuddenly, and we had clear pleafant weather. At 9 h. a gentle breeze from the S. W. per- mitted our courfe to the eaftward ; and we had 26 fathoms, fme land and broken flielis. Throughout the night we had a great deal of light- uing, with frequent claps of thunder, and incefTant heavy rain. At day-light we made fail, having a moderate breeze, with dark and rainy weather. Our founding-* tfc.^_ TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. foundings were 24 fathoms. At 22 li. wc palU;d over ihong riplings, witli the appearance of Ilioal water ; and our Ibundings had decrealcd to 15.and 10 fathoms] coarfo gravel and broken fhells. Wc hove to wliilc the fchooiier went a-head of us, and afterwards fol- lowed her under a fail. Till noon we continued the fame irregular foundings, varying every call of the lead five or fix fathoms. 24 h. Moderate breezes, with rain. Variable weather, with continual hard rain. Our foundings were unc(pial from 18 to IJ fathoms, gravelly bottom. The fchooncr kept a-head of us, and in the night flie carried a light. 7 h. Tight winds, with a great deal of lightning and rain. At 7 h. we fleered N. E. 13 h. Variable winds, with heavy rain. 10' h. Strong breezes. Clofe-reefed the topfail>. 20 h. i pall, we had no bottom with 30 fathoms. 24 h. Black fand. The wind more moderate, but ilill inccfl'ant rain. 181 CHAP. I. 1/97. May. oti I' I t I Moderate breezes and thick weather, with continual rain : 55, 59, and 55 fathoms, fine fand. Thefe foundings were regular till after 7 h., when we had 60- 7th ]i I ' . !■! 1'^ ||: f V6'l A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK 60 faUmm., blarU Imul ; alter .hich time mx had no J}-^ ))()lt()ni Nvilh 100 fathoms. »797. , 1, Lioht airs and cloudy, avUIi Ihowors ot rain '"'■ durint^ the^nigbt. At day-light uo law land extend- in^r from S. K. to N. K. 19 h. The breexe died away, and wo had calm fuUrv weather, with intermitting ihowers of rain. At ,,oon the higher parts of Forinota were c.blVured, bnt „K- ext>vn.e. bore iVom S. tiH^ K- to N. 40^ E., ibur or five leagn.'s. In this litnation we had Mi lathoms, oravelb'bottoni. Dark gloomy weatlier. C'lhns and light airs, with gentle iliowers of rain. At •,1, ,ve were within two leagues of tlielborc: and we 'ticked in '23 fathoms, muddy bottom. The coail was ,vdl wooded, with fandy beaches; and we obferved ,nanv habitations. After dark the weather cleared up, and we had a fine moon-light, which gave us an op- portunity of obferving for tlu) latitude. Gh. "in the morning, with a light breeze we flood u» il.cre, and fetched nearly the fan.e iituation we ,vcr(> in lalt evening, when wc tacked : the extremes ..xtcnding from N. 30^ E. to S. 4^ E. <)h. rinding the Avind again fixed in the IS.E. nnartcr, and no probability of its changn.g to enable * ^ us ,St1i. TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. us pairing llin.urrli ihcltrait.s of ronnofa, 1 tl.ouol.l it iiecdlcfs to ioih any nioic> time in tlic attempt, and ae- cordingly altered our couife to the roiillnvard, with a plealant biveiJC and fair weather, a pk-afuic we Iiad long been deprived of. Ah we fleered along ll.ore, we i)ereeived feveral people on fmall floats going out a finjing. Some of them eame along-fidc, whiehl-ave us an o])portunity to remark tlieir eurious ap|)earan(e. They were run])ly eompofcd of bamboos lafl.ed to- gether, about 20 feet by 6 feet ; the mad fixed in a wooden Hep in the eentre, and tliey appeared to fail fad. Eacli float eanied three men. 183 CIIAI'. I. 1797- May. By miftake we loil taking the fun's altitude at noon; but the lehooner l)cing ^ .thin hail, their latitude will be nearly ours : when the extremes of Formofa bore from N. 12' E. to S. 46" E. : high and ragged Jand, N. 35° E. to N. 7a° E. four or five miles. Over the beach Ave faw feveral junks at anchor ; and the country feemed well inhabited. The ifland, called Lamay in the charts, S. 35'' E. four or five leagues. At 4h. 30m. the fouth point of the ifland of Lamay bore Eaft. 'i'his ifland is of moderate elevation, and not more than five or fix miles in circumference ; dilhint from 9th. o 184, BOOK II. Mav. O o o o A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY t'lom Furmofa tlirce or four leagues. It was cultivated and inhabited, as we iaw many houles: we alfo obfcrved cattle leedino- on leveral parts. By our run fmcc noon, I make its latitude 2T 22' N. ; and it bears f-om the land (et at noon, near iort Zealand, N. 18' W. and S. 18' E. At lunfet we had no foundings; and the extremes of Fonnola bore from N. Ki'' W. to S. 50° E. ; the itland of Lamay, N. 10' AV . to N. 7' E., off lliore four or five lea2;ues. This night was very light ; air and calms ; [ind we had no botto' i with i2(^ fathoms of lino. At day-light FormoHi extended from N. 20" W. to S. 70" E,, five or fix leagues diftant. We fteered more to the caftward, for the; fouth point of Formofa, without gaining any foundingv^ ; and at 21 h. 30 m. we faw the Vele Rcte Rocks from the mad-head. By- noon wc were between them and the fouth part of Formofa, with fmc clear weather, and a gentle breeze from the M'cftward. A good ol>fervation made the latitude 21o 50' N. : the Rocks of the Vele Rete bearin"" S. 34^ E., eight miles ; fouth-eaft point of ^Formofa, N. 63° E. ; fouth-weft point, N. 3:y= W: ; and we had no bottom with 75 fathoms. Thefe two points bear from each other S. 85^ E. and N. 85° W. 12'. o The llibre between them is low, with flindy beaches ; Hi : i-l TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. May. beaches; and at unequal diftances are fcattered fome chap high black rocks. The land rofe gradually from the '* iea, prefenting a fertile appearance, interfperfed with fome rocky eminences : one of them very remarkable, 1.1 the fliape of a friar's hood. Vele Rete Rocks bear N. 12° E. and S. 12° W. from the fouth-eaft point, diftant 12 miles ; and from the fouth-weft point. N. 34° W. and S. 34' E., 15 miles. We were very fortunate in having fo good an opportunity for deter- nuning the fituation of the above places ; as they are not laid down fufficiently corred in the charts, with rdpea to their latitude. In the paflage we ex- perienced a (Irong current fetting to the eaftward. Mith ftrong riplings. 185 n Soon after noon we faw the illand of Botol Tobao-o Xima bearing N. 76° E., on with the fouth-eaft point ofFormofa; and at 1 h. 30m. the fouth-eaft point bore AVeft, and we hauled up N. N. E. At 4 h. P. M. the Avind fuddenly died away, and we had light breezes from the northward. At funfet the fouth point of Formofa bore S. 46" W. ; and Botol Tobago, S. 48^ E. to S. 53' K ; Low Idand, N. 35" E., off the high land ofFormofa, four or five miles, N. 62° W. It was nearly calm throughout the night, and we found the effeds of a ftrong current fetting to the North; for at « fl day-light foth. II 'IR "■ I iii n i 180 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY day-light wc were well up with the low ifland, and we had a gentle wind from the fouthward. The itland of Botol Tobago Xima S. 4« W. to S. IT W. At 18 h. the north extreme of the low ifland bore Weft, four or five miles. A rock is fituated North of it. This illand was covered with verdure, and is of little extent. At noon it bore of us S. 21" W. ; and the extreme land of Formofa, North, off the neareft Ihore three or four leagues ; and we had no foundings. Taking a departure from Formofa fouth point, we are 30* North of account. The coaft from the fouth point continues low for eight or ten leagues ; and two or three leagues North of it, you have anchorage in 20 and 15 fathoms, hatf a mile from the ihore ; and feveral ftreams of water very convenient to be got at, a-breafl; of you. In 22" 30* N. the high land commences, rifing abruptly from the fea ; and the very fummits of the mountains clothed with wood. Tliefe immenfe mountains take the direc- tion of the ifland, nearly North and South. South-eaft point of Formofa, Vcle Rete Rocks, Botol Tobago Xima. f N. Point, I S. Point, Low Iflaml or To'-igo, little Botol Tobago Xiroa, Lat. 21° S3' 30" ai° 43' 0" 22° 05' 0" 21° o' o" 22° 40' o" 21° 54' O" Long. 120° 47' 120° 44' 12" 121° 3s' o" 121° 41' o' 121° 32' o' 121° 47' 30" We TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. This day we had the misfortune to find the fore- mail rotten, extending through the centre of the maft, from the lieel upwards above the mainftajs. It was' difcovered after the rigging had been fet up, by the maft fctthng and renting below the wedges, opening fo much as to difcover the internal part to be entirely ^ ^ ^ decayed, 187 1797. May nth. We fet the rigging up fore and aft. At 4 h. a breeze CHAP, rprung up from the N E., and we flood in fliorc '' till paft (>, when we tacked within i a mile, Iiavinc no foundmgs with 100 fathoms. The extremes of lormofa, feen indittin^Iy through the haze, bore from >.. 8° E. to S. 18» W. ; a fmall ftream of water throu<.h the vallies bore S. 18° W. Our eftimated latitude was 23" 12' N. ; but the current ftill continuing, will make our fituation more northerly. Count Bcnyou n"" 'F 188 1797. Way. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK decayed, leaving fix inches diameter of found wood outfide. We prepared by fifhes, and wedging the maft in the upper deck, to make it do for the voyage r the carpenter thinking it j)ra(aicable, as our filhes were the length of the maft ; and for the prefent we carried very eafy fail, and got the top-gallant maft down upon deck. At 9h. we tacked, and throughout the night we had moderate weather. At 21 h. we faw an ifland to the northward ; and at noon we were within three or four leagues of if, when it extended from North to N. 23" E. No obfervation. • 3th. At 4 P. M. the iiland bore from N. 55" E. to N. 74° E., when we tacked in hopes of getting clofc to it before dark, in which we were difappointed ; for at 7 we were at the fame diftance from it, when it extended from N. 18" W. to N. 20° E, Several fires were lighted upon it immediately after dark ; and we had no foundings with 100 fathoms. At midnight we tacked : at 5 A. M. the ifiand bore from N. 38° AV. to N. 53° AV., five or fix leagues ; and we faw more illands to the eaftward. The forenoon we had light airs and pleafant weather, and we ftood to the North. By our obfervation at noon it appeared we had experienced a ftrong current, which had fet us N. 43° E., 88 miles the filft day after leaving Formofa. As the fchooner, ia s TO "HE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. in the morning of the ilth, had feen the above ifland, its quartered direaion was N. E. and S. W., about five or fix miles, of moderate elevation, falling abruptly at each extreme, with a peaked hill in the centre. At noon it bore from S. 86' W. to S. 76° W., about ten miles ; Hummock Ifiand, S. 46° E. ; and another more extenfive, S. 65° E. to S. 85° E., near fix or feven leagues. Thefe two we had feen laft yeiu. Light airs continued till funfet; and throughout the night it was clear and fultry weather. At6h. 10 m. the weftern ifland bore from S. 82° AV. to Weft ; Hum- mock Ifland, S. 41° E. ; and the eaftern ifland, S. 64° E. to S. 88° E. At funrife a gentle breeze per- mitted our fleering towards the iflands ; and at 22 h. the Hummock Ifland bore of us South, eiijht or ten miles. It appeared broken and rocky, and of very little extent. From the main-top we could difcern a fandy ifland, noticed bft year, which now bore Si 30° E., on with the weft point of the caflcrn ifland. At noon we were within three miles of this land; which was highly divcrfified by wood, and prefented a very- fertile i)rofpea; ; but we could not reach the bottom with 100 fathoms. The entrances extended from South to N. 60° E. ; Hummock Ifland, S. 22° W.; a fmail bay, S. 45° E. : the fouth point four or five <3 miles. 189- CHAP. I. 1797- May. 14th. ■ ■ ■■ m =1 • ill K U ' f I'! I'' 'V 190 BOOK II. 1797. May. X5th. 1^: A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERT miles. We faw fome canoes jmffing clofo in lliore ; and the fchooner was direaed to keep between us and the land. "VVe fleered in the diredion of the iiland, at a league diftance. At 4 h. we were a-breaft of a fmall ifland off the N. E. part. It was low and flat, covered with brufli-wood and coarfe grafs. An extenlive reef, partly dry, extended from each extreme. 'J'his fmall ifle is very little diftance from the larger one, which tended to the S. E. from its north extreme ; and we fteered Eaft for another ifland, which we had pafled laft year on its eaftern fide. We foon after difcovered the range of low iflands joining each other by coral reefs, that feemed to exclude any paflage between the two large iflands; and yet we had no foundings. At 7 h. the iflet bore from 53° W. to 65° W., four or five miles, on with the north extreme of the fouthern large ifland ; extreme of ditto, S. 18° E. ; Peaked Ifland among the reefs, S. 25" E. ; the other ifland about Village point extreme, S. 55' E., and extending to N. 74° E., five or fix leagues. At 11 h. we hauled our wind, and remained plying till daylight, when the extremes extended from N. 80'' E. to S. 10" W. three or four leagues off fliore ; and the ifland we had paffed in the afternoon bore from S. 30" W. to S. 60' TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. S. 60' W. In the forenoon we had light airs and fultry weather, which prevented our approaching the land ; I therefore difpatched a boat to acquire fome knowledge of the inhabitants, whom we plainly difcerned with our glafles. I was prevented laft year from gaining any information refpeding them by bad weather; and hitherto we could find no fafe anchorage from the depth of water and corally bottom. ■i I 191 CHAP. I. 1797. May. At noon we were within four miles of the fliorc, abreaft of a bay overrun with reefs ; and we had 125 fathoms water, hard ground: the extremes bearing from N. 56" E. to S. 48" W. The ifland in this part was contraded to a narrow ifthmus, and South of it was a confpicuous fugar-loaf hill. Towards the evening the boat returned from the fhore, having been proteded by the fchooner during the time they had landed. With fome difficulty they found a paflage through the coral reef which extends along the coaft nearly half a mile off: within it th" boat was well flieltered ; and without the reef their foundings were irregular from fifty to five fathoms. 16th, i MM 11 They 192 BOOK II. 1797. May. . 1 ;■■ ?!': A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY They had the good fortune foon after difembarking to find a path-way, which foon led them to a fmall village, confiding of about 30 houfes. On entering one of them they found an elderly man, who treated them with great civility, and offered refrelhments, which they partook of The reft of the inhabitants entirely deferted their houfes, but obferving the peaceable behaviour of the mafter (Mr. Chapman), on re-embaiking they joined their party at the water's fide, excepting the women who were fecn at fome dif- tance in the country. Thefe people wejre different in fome refpeds in their appearance both to the Chinefe and Japanefe. Their hair was rolled up to the crown of the head, and fattened with two metal pins ; and they were dreffed in loofe linen gowns and trowfers. They fainted the officers by joining their hands and lifting them to their heads in a flow manner. The houfes were of one ftory, of a fquare form, .and the roof meeting in a point, and thatched with coarfe reeds : the infide of them were neat and clean, and covered with matts upon which they flept. The name of the idand they <:allcd Patchufan, and the large one to the weft of it ilocho-o-ko-ko. Their produce was the fame, both iflands abounding by their defcription in rice, millet, fweet TO TIIE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 1.9:3 iucct potatoes and tarro. They have alfo black cattle chap. and liorfes, pcaclies and limes ; and fVoin appearances ^^1^ our gentlemen were led to Jiuloc they poUbHed many Vi^' other articles which their (lioit flay prevented thci\' '^ afcertainiii":. 'I'hey appeared harmless and inoflenfive in th»>ir manners ; nor did they Tucvv any arms or weapons ot delence. Light airs and favourable weather. At oh. (he boat returned, and we flood to the north-wedward with a frefl) breeze. At 7 h. the extremes of Patchu- fan bore from Eaft to S. 20° E., and Rocho-o-ko-Ko S. 10° W. to S. 42= W. 12 h. Moderate weather ; \vore iliip. 17 h. At daylight the north extreme of Patchufan bore S. 6.5" E., and at noon it bore S. 14° ^Y. fix leagues. 'I'iie Peaked Hill S. ^0' W., and we faw no other land. The carpenters emjiloyed hooping the fifhes on the foremaa, and the feamen wooldiiig the mafl; which enabled us to carry the forcfail reefed, and fore-topfail clofe reefed. We fleered Eaft with the intention of examining the north fide of the iflands we had pafled to the c c South i6tli r7th. 'I S ifH 194. I i ri B O (-) K II. I797- Mtv. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY South Inft year ; and the fchooncr's fignul was madefb Itccr K. by S. At two P.M. we jiifl (lifcovercd a fmall faiidy iiland from the d'.'ck, beariii<; S. 15° E. live league:. At ti h. we Taw another iiland bearing Kail, and we hauled E. N. E. ; and at 4 h. the fclioonei'ii lignal was made to haul her wind upon the larboard taek. At } pail 5 we hauled our vnnd, and ihortened i'ail for the fehooner to eonie up V ith us. At 7 P. M' an hunnnock making like an iiland, beyond the extreme of the other iiland, bore S. 60" E. ; and the extreme point of land feen bearing Eait, now bore S. 10° W. about five leagues. At this time the mate of the wateh from the inafthead reported there was no land to be f(*cn to the Eaft or North of the Hummoek Iiland, nor in any other direction ; neither was there the fmalleil danger in view from the appearance of the coail to the S. E. on our lee-beam. I therefore ftood on, meaning to tack at 8 hours, and ply to the windward. till daylight. The moon we expc6ied to rife at midnight, anct the fehooner was not yet up in her ilation. The fliip lay N. E. | N. going 41 knots with her main tack on board. Immediately after taking the bearings, 1 left the deck to protra^l our fiLnation; which I found to be on the north ilde of the iiland wc had paifed on the 3d of December lull year (called by the ■iii' ii. ii 10 THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. tlio natives Typiiifan), and which hlowinir leather CHAl> prevented our having any communieation with. About half after feven white water was feeii a-head and upon each bow, and reported to the oi^icer of the watch (T.ieut. Vadion) ; and almoft dirt-dly after, the fhip llruck upon a reef of coral rocks. Havin- felt the fliock, which was not violent, 1 inftantly ucnt upon deck, and by the way met Mr. Vaflion coming to acquaint me with the difafter The officers and men were upon deck in a moment, and the fails direclly braced aback. It appeared to me the lielm was a-weather, and the fliips head about E.N.E., fails all full. Had the helm been put a-lee on feeing the danger, I think we fliould have cfcaped it. The proper fignals were made to the fehooner, and the mailer fent to anchor her as near as pofnble, to heave by her. The fl.ip foon after paid off, with her head to the eaftward ; and we hauled up the mainfail, fliivering the other fails, to let her go round without acquiring head way : before flie paid off to. the fouthward, flic again ftruck fore and aft, and remained fixed at lafl with her head due Soufli. Breakers were then upon each bow, and we Ijad from Wj 1. '797- May. ill i I ';i -' t ! :4 1 i HI r^ii c c 2 five 1 'i 1 1 1 ( f .1.' UJKti 19<) A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK 11. May. il: five to firU'Cii fallioins in tlir ilarboaid cliuins, and oiilv 'U ralhoiiis at timos hotli a-licad and a-lU'in. IfaviiiiT cliokcii the rudder, the loinnalis WiVc Irruck ; and we began hoiliing the boats out, the lower yards having been kept up lor that purpol'e. At this lime the Ihip did not llrike violently, and had only made 19 inches water. Unl'orlunately the wind tVelhenrd from the N. N. W., and the Tea be^an to break with great Ibree, which loon knocked the rudder otT: we Tecurcd it with hawl'ers. It was now 9 o'clock, and we only waited the fchooner's anchoring, to attempt heaving off; and in the mean time began hoifting out the long-boat : during which period the lliip made water very fail ; and the violent fliocks Hie received, rendered it doubtful whether the mafts would Hand. The water iiicreafed fo nuieh upon the pumps, that before the long-boat was out we had fevcn feet water in the hold. At this time the fchooner had anchored near us in 25 fathoms, and the mafter returned on board, when the fliip fuddcnly changed her pofition, fwinging round from South to North by the Eaft, and ftriking more violently tljan ever. Before we could carry our hawlcrs to the fchooner, the carpenter reported the water up to the orlop-deck, and the flirp having bilged forward ; we therefore gave up the idea of attempting to heave 7 off, TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. W7 k •797- May. ofV, for had wc Cuccccded, the i]\i\t imi(l inevitably CHAP. have louiulcrod. The fparc pumps were down the ■' fore halehway, hut the water 11 ill inerealiiii;- ujxm the gnn-deek, rendered all our exertions ulelefs. I'he oftieers Mere unanimous with me in opinion, that nothing could he done to fave the fliip ; and to cut away the malls would have no etl'ett upon her, as the was fettling fall forward from her being bilged, as we imagined, in her larboard bow. It now became Jiighly neeelfary to preferve the people, and the boats were ortlered ready for their reception ; while they were employed trying to eolleft arms and ammu- nition, with armourers' and cari^nters' tools. But the Ihip laying nearly on her beam ends, and the gun- deck being full of water with the wafliing of the bulk-heads to and fro, chells, Iie.l ofl' the reef, and at noon obterved in t ^e lat.tude of 2.y - N. ; the lihmd Ilumnioek, S. ^.> E. lour leagues ; extreme land, S. 10° W. ; n»ip„ wreek, two cable. ; outer part of the reef, N. 40° K • i'iid wc had 56' fatlioms, rocky bottom. In the afternoon liie mailer returned from the wreck, with tiie long boat full of unwove cordage, ^^^\^- c^c. wiiich they had uubeiU, and the kedge anchor, CHAK 11. INI ly. i8ti). '# '\ Iff:: f ' 1 a ! , : . > -c i;,. 200 n o o K 11. M.iv. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY miclior, uitli a 7 inrh liawfcr. All tlicfe articles wore ol'grcnt ulc to us, jiarticulaiiy the anchor. 'Ihcy louiul the larljoard fiilc of the lliip entirely imineiled in the lea, up to the hatchways, and the fea niakinii a l^dr break over her. 'i'he decks were partly l)lown up, and the bulk-heads lore and aft entirely ^vaflled away. Every moveable article was gone ; nor w'as there any ligns of books, nautical or niathe- nialical inltrunients of any kind remaining, to my great mortification and difappoiutment. if The officers and peo})le were equally unfortunate; finding their property either deltroyed, or below the decks M'here they could not get at it. In the cabin they found feveral Hand of arms, cutlalVes, &c. which, in oui' prefent Itate, were to us of eirential confe- qucnce. As the INIafter found it impofli!)le to procure any thing more from the wreck that could be of real ufe, and our (luantitv of water being very fcantv for our numbers, it became a principal conlideration to pro- cure fome from the iilands ; as alio, in the event of not getting any j)rovili()ns from the lhi{), our exiftcnce depended upon adding to our ftock in the fame man- ner : li' TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. iicr 201 and we knew Typinfan to be inhabited, and chap .^^y,f aim moll probably equally i)roduaive with the other iflands. After clearing the boats we therefore made fail to the fouth-weftward, with them in company ; and at 6 P. M. we bore up to the fouthward, ranging a fmall idand, which bears E. N. E. from Hummock Ifland, about 12 miles the weflcrn point of it. Tliere is a paflage between it and Typinfan, but it did not ap- ]3ear very cleai- of dangers. At dark we brought to for the night, having 50 fathoms within one n?ile of the fliore. This ifland was of moderate elevation, and very little extent. At day-light we were difiant three or four leagues from Typinfan ; and we fleered N. E. to pafs between it and the other ifland, in hopes of finding anchoraire. As we approached the fliore wc had grcixt overfalls, varying from 1.5 to 2 fathoms ; and in many parts (Ijc flioals were nearly dry. By frequent tacking and wearing wc at laft cleared them, and came to an anchor in 13 fathoms, clofe in with the S. E part of the finall ifland, wh<'re there appeared fomc profped of procuring wood, water, .^c. A canoe immediately came off to us, and to them we cxprcin^d our wants, i> " which 1797- May. 1-! fl ^y \i': n 202 BOOK II. 1797- Mav. igth. i . A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY whicli they fccnicd to coniprclicnd, as tlioy left us diredlv, and foon after returned with water. From the veilel, \vc could fee two large villages ; and a bout, with an officer, went to each of them. They were re- ceived in the moll friendly manner, and the boats returned full of water. In the afternoon they fent in canoes a much larger quantity, with fome wood and large packages of canary feed, alfo fome poultry and pigs, without alking for any thing in return, or fcem- ing to expea it. They ftrongly expreffed a defire for us to proceed to the eaftern village, where they could more conveniently fupply our wants. As the weather continued favourable, early the next morning the lonty-boat and cutter came, fent to the wreck of the fliip in fearch of provifions ; and at 21 h. we got under way, and turned to windward, with an eafterly wind, towards the village fituated in that direcflion at two or three leagues diftant. In our traverfes we met with a fuccelTion of reefs, having deep water between them ; and at lafl with great difficulty, and once touching upon a coral rock, we came to an anchor in 3| fathoms, oppolite the vil- lage, and near feveral fmall junks. Our friends made us welcome with a boat-load of wood, and three large hogs. The afternoon was rainy unpleafant weather, with TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. uilh a Itrong Ibutherly wind ; and we had no com- Jiiuuication with the Ihore. After breakfaft, on the following day, we paid a vifit on lliore to our humane friends, who received us witii the greateft civility, in a large and convenient lioufc well adapted to the country : the floors were well matted, and evcrv thinc^ relating to the furniture extremely neat. On thefe mats wc hit in the Oriental cuftom, and partook of the refrefliments they offered, fuch as, tea, pipes ajid tobacco. Several venerable old men encircled our party, dreifed in large loofe gowns of fine manufac- ture, fimilar to tiffany, of various colours and diflbrent patterns. Thefe flowing garments were tied round the middle with a fafli ; and they alfo wore trowfers and fandals. The crown of their heads were fliaved, and the hair from behind brought up to a knot on the toj), and rcciircily faftened by metal pins, in the Malay ftylc. They made ufe of fans univcrfally ; and fome wore neat llrau- hats tied under the c;hin. The aged men had moft rt fprdable beards. 203 CHAP. II. 1797- May. m '.< i The iKJiifo appeared to belong to tlie principal j)Cople, and was fitiiated in an elevated fitnation, at fome liulc diihinee from the fea, environed by a fquare wall of Hones V2 feet high, leaving a gateway to enter hv. ovei uliielj was a gnard-houfe. The rooms were i> i> Jt fpacious, : i 204 A VOYAGE OlF DISCOVERY JBOOK fpacious, opening on the ildcs, with projedling bal- >— ^-*-' conies. We found no difiicully in making them com- May. prehend our wants ; but extreme fatisfaclion in find- ing tliey liad not only the incliuatiou but the power of lupplying them. After takinc; leave we were defirous of walking about the town, which they ftrongly objeded to ; nor could all our perfuafions induce them. Not wilhing in our prefent circumltances to give any offence, we gave up the point, and proceeded in the boat fome diftance to the watering place, where we found the in- habitants mod cheerfully aflifting car people in draw- ing water from a Hone well, that had been made for watering the adjacent plantations. They alTured us, it would alfo anfwcr for wafhina: ; and for drinking they would fend us fome better. ^oth. The afternoon was fine, and our friends fent off rice, wood, and water. The night was rainy, with iin- fettled weather ; and in the morning we had the wind at S. W., with the profpedl of fair weather, which in- duced me to fend another boat, with a party of ma- fines, to trace the beach oppofite to the wreck, in cafe of any provifions coming on fliore, or to aflifl the 4>ther boats if ncceifary. Strong fqualls of wind foon put 10 THE NORTIT PxVCIFIC OCEAN. put a ii()|) to tlicir expedition ; and we were obliged to let jio another anelior, to prevent driving on Ihore. 'I'liis boilkrous weather ''ontinued lb as to alarm us lor the lUtety of the other boats ; but in the evening, to our great joy, they returned in fatety. They had vifitcd the wreck, but could not procure any provi- hons from her, or by tracing the coaft, where it was naturally conjedured they would drift to. The fliip remained with her flarboard fide juft above the fea; and they had cut her mafts away, expelling they would come on iliore. The matter had vifited Hum- iDock Illand, which, to their furprife, they found in- habited : it was inacceffible except in one part, but cultivated with potatoes, &c. In the building of the houfes they obferved feveral pieces of fliip timber; and in furrounding the ifland, they faw feveral human ikulls in the caverns formed by the rocks, probably the remains of fome (hip more unfortunate than our- felves. 205 CHAP. II. 1-97. May. m w. \'m Before their arrival at the ifland, the inhabitants had brought them water and potatoes ; and in many other inftances, during their abfence, did they receive the fame kind attentions. Thefe good people were fully acquainted with our misfortune, and naturally conceived our greateft wants were the articles of life, which. ;i:. (, ' i ' l'^^ 206 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY m BOOK which, Aich as they poflefled, they parted with in a ^— — moil friendly manner. »797- Mij. As it plainly appeared from the mailer's reprefentu- tion we had nothing to expedi from the wreck of the Ihip, any unnccefl'ary delay here became dangerous from the want of provifions, having a very infufficient quantity even at Ihort allowance, confiderilig our jiaflTage to Canton was to be made againft the S. W. monfoon ; and for fo numerous a crew (viz. 112 fouls) we could only carry three weeks' water : added to which, the fmallnefs of the veflTel prevented more than one fourth of the number being below at the fame time ; and vre had to dread every complaint among the people, who were without clothing and deftitutc of every comfort, fliould we have to en- counter bad weather. It was my idea, had we faved a fufficient quantity of provilions from the fliip, tp have left fevcnty men on the iiland while I profecuted the voyage in the fchooncr, returning for them in t!ie N. E. monfoon, after concluding the furvey to the North : but I much fear, from the diflike the inhabi- tants had to our feeing the country, ihey would have prevented the execution of my plan, at Icall with their conreiit; and without their approbation it would not have been advifuble. In I "t ft ■ m TO Tlir NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. ' oq^ In (he morning of tho 23d wc received from our CHAP, fncnds tl.e remainder of tlieirprefents, which amounted ^l^ in all to .50 bags of wheat, 20 of rice, and 3 of Aveet ^^J.% potatoes; each hag containing 1 cwt. : alfo, one bullock of 3 cwt., Hx large hogs, and plenty of poultry. JtKl(<^ ^I'ip ^^^^ j"^ viiiblc, and tho i'vn muilc a con- tinual breach over her. This groupc of iflands, off which the ihip was lofl, confills of feventeen illands. They arc of difl'crcnt iizcs, and many of them very Ihiall and uninhabited. Tlio.y extend from 24" lO Nortii to '24' o'J'^iO' N. lati- tude, and from 123- 2' Eall to 12 j 37' E. lonoitude. The inliabitants di(linguin»cd them by the name of Madjicofemah, as mc undcrllood tliem : tli(\y were tributary to Great Lieuchieux, or the Liciuieux Jllands. P m Frelh breezes and cloudy weather. At 1 h., having cleared the Hioals, we made fail as per log ; the boats following under fail. At 5 h. the wreck of the Provi- dence bore S. 31° E. three or four miles. At funfet fliortened fail, and took the boats in tow for the night ; Hummock Jfland, on with the outer part of the reef, S. 15° E. ; and we had no foundings with 100 fathoms; the reef diftant two or three miles. Our clHmated latitude 25° 13j' N., and longitude 12.3° 12' E. Under eafy fail we fteered to the weftward ; and during the night we had thunder, lightning, and rain. .fJ \i- Variable TO HIE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. Variable ncuthcr, with ram and a confuled fca. 211 CHAP. 11. Vrclh breezes and f(|ually weatlicr: exceffivc fultry, ulyVsih, with coiiihmt rain. 'J'hc wind at lall fixed to the North, and we fleered to the S. VV. The rain con- tinued thron<^;hoiit the cvcnin797- Mav. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Light breezes, with Ihowers of rain. At day-light llumniock Jlland, S. 73° E. ; Roclio-o-ko-ko, from N. MT K. to N. TS'' E ; and Weft Illand, N. 56" W. ; when we lacked and made fail, tlie boat§ in com- pany. i|i' O o O 271I1 n o O Light breezes and dark ch)udy weatlier; wind in- creafing at noon : Hummock Uland, N. 6.5° E. fix or feven leagues. Lightobreezes and cloudy weather, witli (liowers of rai»i and frequent thunder .and lightning, which ren- dered our fituation tiuly uncomfortable from the numbers obliged to be upon deck ; and below, the heat was exccfllive. 12 h. Light airs and variable, with inceflant rain. 24 h. Scpiaily weather, with fliowers of rain. m iSth. Heavy fliowers of rain, which brought the wind round to the weftward, and we fleered S. S. W. 7 h. Tof k the boats in tow as ufual for the night. 012 h. Qprefli breezes and fine weatlier. o o At 22 h. we faw the illand of Tobago, fituated net>r Formofa, bearing N. 7^° VV. ; and at 23 h. .'JO m. avc made Botol Tobago Xiilia, bearing S. 31.° \V. At o o noon o o O o u TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 213 noon the fornier extended from N. 65° W. to N. CHAP 75" W., and the latter from S. 25° W. to S. 30° W. ' — ^ 10 or 12 leagues. J^Jfy ' At 4 m. pall Botol Tobago Xima bore S. E. and the fouth point of Formola S. W. { W. about 10 leagues. At 10 h. we were by eitimation in the latitude of it, when we ileered South, not intending to pafs between Formofa and the Vele Rete rocks. The niglit was cloudy, ivith rain. 13 h. At daylight we had run 25 miles, when to our great furprize, the fouth point of Formofa bore of us S. W. by W. four or five leagues ; and at noon after running S. W. 21 miles, it was Hill three leagues in the direiition of S. 40° W. Towards noon the wind moderated, and Me could make no Avay againll tiie nortiicrly currents, which occafioncd a confufcd againft the wind. Botol Tobago Xima extended from N. 84" E. to S. 88* E., and the north extreme of Formofa N. 10' E. No foundings three miles oft fliore. 29th. n, i. Light airs and cloudy weather carried us infenfibly towards the land; when we experienced a counter- current in our favour, which fet us in the direction 7 o of 3oih. t J u I 111 ir- ->14 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK of the fliore to the Touthward. Ihe cutter kept clofc II. . ,. , ' — -^ in to examine the coall, which in this p^irt is a httlo M;,y. indented. They found good anchorage in 15 and 20 fathoms, about half a mile, with feveral runs of water and many herds of cattle feeding, but no figns of habitations or any cultivation. 1.51k At funfet the extremes of Formofa from S. 12.5° W. to N. .5" E. ; centre of Botol Tobago Xima N. 80° E. The fouth point is low, flat, and rocky off rormofa ; and at 8 h. it bore Well two miles : we had no foundings. At 10 h. a ftrong breeze came from the North, and we hauled dole round Formofa, palling N. of Vele llete rocks. After midnight the wind moderated, but remained in the N. E. quarter. At noon the high land on the S. part of Formofa N. 65" E. 10 or 12 leagues. 31ft. Moderate breezes, gradually decreafing; at 2 h. we loft lidit of Formola. 10 h. Squally weather, with rain, which continued, the weather fultry : a great deal of thunder and lightning. 20 h. Fine and pleafant weather ; breeze increaiing. We fre(juently pafled over riplings, with the a[)pcarance of a ftrong current fetting to the wellward. Moderate ^797- June il> TO THE NORTO PACIFIC OCEAN. „j. Mo,le,ate winds, f.nooth water, and very pleafant chaV 7 !'• Calm and clear weather. 1 1 li. Light breezes. 20 h. 'J'lic lonnitiule fl.ewn by the watch till our arrival, ,s coireaed for it, error off formofa, wl.orc ,t ihewcd the longitu.le too much by V 3ff It has ,uner gone well tinee failing. Light airs and variable weather. I VcMT light winds, ineli.iincr to calm.s. In the aftcmccn we tiied, and found the ciirrent fet to the well ward. 4 h. Saw a Chinefe fdhing-boat. 6 h. Sounded in 52 fathoms ; fniall gravelly flones and fand. 12 h. Calm and fine wcatlier. 18 h. Light breezes ; feveral fifliing-boats in f.ght. U li. Smooth Avater, and very warm weather. Frefli breezes and very pleafant weather. 4 h. 46 fathoms, muddy bottom. 7 h. 52 fathoms, ditto bottom. 12 h. .50 fathoms, ditto bottom. Light iliowers of i'ain. 22 h. At 11 h. A.M. we faw the Lema lilands to 2(i. 3'1- 'M I i ! .) h jfr ill Mir : H, 1 !.: m 210" BOOK II. '797- June 4U1. A VOYAGI: OF DISCOVERY to tlie W. N. W., and vc altered our courfe. At noon the Grand Lcma N. 47^ AV. four or five leagues. Trefli breezes and very hazy weather, At { pad two the Great licma bore Weft If', and by its known longitude 114' 26' K. We have been 1° 20' Weft of our account fince leaving Formofa. By our run from noon its latitude will be 22° 4' N. Wc fteered as per log till 8 hours and a half, when wc hauled up between Lafsanimu and Lantoo Paint, and came to in 12 fathoms, the point bearing S. E. toiu" miles. 11 h. At daylight we got under way with a fine breeze, and at 20 h. we were abreaft of Lintin. A boat was difpatched from hence to Macao with an officer to acquaint the governor with my return, and to order provifions. We fteered N. by E. i E. for Lankcet Ifland carrying 10, 8, and 7 fathoms, till we came within fight of Sampanchow, and then only 5 fathoms. Within two or three miles of Lankeet we gave it a good birth to pafs to the Eaft of Sampanchow, and foon increafed our water to 10 fathoms. At noon Sampanchow Weft one mile. With TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. . oj^ With a ftrong flood-tide we fooii paflfed tli;797- June. The next morning we anchored in the Typia off the watering place, having the nine iflands juft open, bear- ing N. E. ^ N. Macao harbour N. by W. 4 W. two miles. Clofe in with the entrance of the harbour, was a Spanifli lliip bound to Manilla. Seeing the Swift coming into the Typia, llie run for Ihelter under pro- te(!',lion of the fort. We remained here to the 26'th completing our provilions, wood and water; but unfortunately we could not contain more than five months : we however filled every part of the vefTel, to infure keeping the fea as long as pofiible in our refearches to the North of Japan. I'he winds were variable, with frequent rain and a great deal of thunder and lightning, with ftrong winds from the S. E. The winds were fcldom from the weftward, and this I nnder- llood had been the cafe lince our failing in April lall. The i"t( li' n .y; «i n l: .:■ 'I ! 222 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK The licat on iliorc was cxccfllvc, and woulil have hccn **— «^^*' infup|)()rtal)lc if not rcfrelhed by the rains. >797- June. a6th. Wc now failed a fecond time in tiio proficution of our voyage, not with tlie mod flattering hojios of fuc- ceeding, from the fcafoi being fo far advanced, and the velTel inadequate in many refpe^ts to the purpofc. But ftill there was fome profpedt of acriuiring geogra- phical knowledge of the Tartarean and Corean coalh ; and I was unwilling, even under the exilling circum- lUi ces, not to ufe every endeavour to the utmoii of my power, that coidd tend to the improvement of fciencc by the exploration of unknown parts. The officers and men were equally difpofed with myfelf to do their rc- fpedlive duties, and wc departed in good health. l( I 1l ■^ o o o Q O o • o o o 0 olMAGE EV&Ll^ATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) o o o 1.0 o 1.1 ■50 "^^ M^E I 1^ Ilia I 1^ IM 1.8 o o // '.A^ 1-25 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" ► .^. vl ^ ^ ''a '/ >!^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 '^^ \ \ \ y''- "^^S^ .^ '<^- ^r^^ '^kN <*. ■^> 'v^" "^^ <> o 4;s <$> ►> r' r^- --1-^- _l:_ '-M J, T-f- ^L i I •() _-0'.. ./•'■<■ ■/-• •/■/ ■< — ^ '^ f //(/(■// 0.:*t/f,^, -'"-N, >•• ("U i-';{ I -r-t- 1.'.-. -'-' r--l A / / / /i / A» / -V- i'":/„A ' O-* ci::?'** 7tl .■<■'■ ' /•<•<■-<• \^ O^ V' ^i \ \^ r> . o - '■'• <:P A A ( I /. ', ' / >l/lli,ll I/, /,v/.-,v. ^'/i It'll It. i,:<;' ,'i,r, 4- x tCriypi'iis .in ■ I '•/nun, III IC- "^-^ -^-ip -XT"! ~:: ._L.-_L -L^jz-'n .rrL^i: -.r_n::. ^ I-'" iJ-^ ..Lrr-y- U-JZ-i --X"_.L: rr:: .:.-. I. - / / / -^_ / \) .( ' ( > S \-\ \\ A K /. ■, ' / /////. 'Ill III A UA 'III /-".//.,■, /-,•- +^ , .A. ^^ (i / luiioh i.r„bovs'-'\ ^-v'"'--- ;'i_vj>iiis .111 ( K J ■/••/miiiit/i o ,::) .H I, /■/,./ -_. ._r. . i: ' - 1" - - f - - - 1- - .-^T- x:jr_r- L \ J /- — f-- <:> ( J o — > \> \ 7 twiiini/i ♦' t ./r '(■///>// c S» "V' A V-, 7 -^^ ^ .'■'iiih/i / , ^' 'Cr/. / U/til(CI,l \:(|irli.-!n :b ,^ ::7 I y. -(J s; ■I I .A. ^^ I- -.> ^ w . I i t i! / / / 1 i ■^ '^ c f y -< ■-^ r^ / c?'- i f r |- N ! 1 < ( 1 \ 'i \ / 1 -i I ( i 1 > J : I f t. 1 \ /^ .,., 1 r - ./ ; r - • r 1 -■il ' " "■ -L ■ - ■ — ^ **^IW. /.-.'■ L-_- — + /' ; A /•,■//•• /•' ,.,// /A i"i\'\iri' lL?i2 .'i^>' \v^ >^^^ •-X ^ V ,''riitclm.s.iii ^:? J? •V- I ..Vi'>-^^3 ti L,.' /In II till I' v/. J C^ ^t\S-t/)i(s -\- 1 — I :-'■;! IJ I. Ij'.'> Li.iiyit iidf f O ^ ^M'lllcllll.S;!!! ■^m y --f- t-- : 1 1_ ,"» f.oifyiliiuh' \'..\s\ Iroiiii (in-ciiu icli C'iO Stfiiiiil . I I ^ / I'Voni the South roint r>fj''') li S:U)^ () // .171)7-. I ^X . .X. I -.7 ! I 1 -::M .- .J — 1 — ^ — 1 — I J TMZ ij;{ I I 1 1 'a * si' ■■4l*^|Cp:»ac»i!«5?,-.. I I Jii^ t-i, I- f: inF'? ("11 1 f iff ' i li !1; if I'lililfiliitl Jtiit I'lfiii^ I'y /ti/if// vyjiiii, '4k 41k. ) ^> y hf //.'/f'xff I > f '///'/// //rt <■/ ///t ./////■/( f/ /■ ^ S A V A <• M A y , UKKr.UKN<'K .S.S.Ilii- ffiiriiil liroiiiiil H.U. /■/;/ /;'«// I' ///< r/i/niii,;- ri't/ir /fitrlu'iir JU ! I i ' 1 \ I I ^~H» ? TO THE NORTH PACIHC OCEAN. CHAP. III. Pefcadou f/Iands.'—In Napacban Harboury Great Liquieux, — Dc- fcription of the InhabitaniSy isfc. — Departure from it towards jfapan, yJ^ the 14th of June, as N° 45 fliewcHl the loiiffitu(?c of the Typa 115° 19' E., which 's toe much by 1° 47', an error acquired in 67 days. By daily obforvations between the 14th and 25th June her rate was pretty regular ; and ou the 26tli at noon, 45 was flow for mean time 7h. 40m. 36.1s., andlofing on meantime 6.651s. per day. At 2 P. M. we got under way with a ftrong ebb tide, and at 5 P. M. we weathered Potoe within lialf a mile, having 6i fathoms. As we paflfed two or three miles Weft of the Grand Ladrone, we gradually incrcafcd lo 12 fathoms, when the Ibuth extreme of it bore S. 80' E. on with the Afs's Ears. Mr. Dalrymplc makes the Rock R. bear more foutherly: it is probable therefore we did not fee it. At dark we boarded an Eall India packet called the CHAP. III. 1797. June 27th. i i,.i 1: I i Ski' : i It-: V }■■ ■7tl^' I\ M' •' :ii. no 24 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY DOOK the Amazon, four months and trn days from VaU II. . ^ — N— ^ mouth. She had palled the ihaits of Sunda witliout •797' r ■ June. lecing any cruizcrs. At 8 h. the Ciiand Ladrone hore of us N. 5a° E. ; Potoc, N. 5" W. ; extremes of ithmds, E. i S., off the Ladrone three or four miles. We made fad, fteering as per log. At 21 h. Grand Ladrone, N. 32° W. ; and the extreme illands, N. 68° W. Grand Ladrone, 22° 02' N. 113° 56' E., from whence I take my de- parture. i8tlu Fiofli breezes and fmc weather. At6h. we faw a licet a-head, confiding of nine large fliips upon a "wind. Conceiving them to be a Spanifli f(|uadron from Manilla, cruizing for the Eaft India fleet, at 7 h. we fleered in for the land to avoid them ; and at half paft 12 h. we paflfed a lliip upon our lee-beam that took no notice of us. At 13 h. we loll fight of her, when we fleered more to the North. At day-light we were within three or four leagues of the Weft of Cliina, and abreaft of Piflbang, or the great bay ; the extremes extending from Well to N. 80° E. ; and we had no fight of tlie fleet, 8 At :f; TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. Ai 8 A. l\r. wr (leered nearly in the it \ji M I h V Ij ji il m lit 223 BOOK II. 1797' July. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY were "witliin three miles of it. The extreme to tlie Soulli bore S. 6° E., making a low faiuly point. Over the beach were feveral junks vt anchor; and we had only fevcn fathoms water. At noon the extremes of Formofa extended from N. 45° E. to S. 7° £• three or four miles ; and we had 11 fathoms. The land near tlie fea prefented a barren appearance of fand hills mixed with coarfc grafs. At the back of the beach were fome fcattered trees ; but more inland, the liills rofe to a confiderable height, richly clothed with woods. I'! 1 ■ n \i '■^ . i I • ! i ad. We continued our courfe along the coaft of For- mofa, with a llvong current fetting us to the north- ward. 7 h. Calm. The extremes extended from N. 45° E. to S. 14° W. : an opening bore S. 40° E. Off the entrance were feveral junks at anchor. Thirty-one fathoms. 17 h. Light breezes. The extremes of Formofa, N. 58° E. to S. 18° W., off fliore feven or eight miles. Towards the North the land gradually decreafed in height. 22 h. At noon the extreme land, we could fee, bore Eail, fix or feven leagues. At :>k..^.^jiii TO THE NOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN.. At 1 h. tacked and ftood in for the land ; and at rialFpall, not being able to fee the land, owing to the haze, 'sve flood off lliorc. At half pall 6h. Ave could juft difcern it bearing S. 40° E. three or four leagues. Ch. Very fqually and threatening weather obliged us to reduce our fail. . 12 h. Strong gales, with a large fea. 18 h. Throughout the forenoon it blew very ftrong,. and we fplit nioft of our fails. We had alfo heavy rain, and were obliged to pump the vefl'el out every hour. i24 h. Heavy gales of wind, and thick hazy weather. Strong gales of wind, with a heavy fea running, and a great deal of rain. At half pail 2 h. we faw the coail of China to the W. N. W., appearing very in- diltindllv throu"h the haze. AVe foon after wore ; and the gale blowing harder, we reefed the bowfprit, and: lay to under a clofe-rcefed mainfail. Soon after bringing to we fprung a leak in the ftarboard quarter, which filled the cabin with water, and kept the people continually at the pumps. In the night the wind gradually veered round to the "Weihvard with increafcd violence, which caufed an 229 CHAP. in. Juiy 3d. 4 til. i I * 1 * ' km m ' I ( ''111 m «;*! u 330 A VOYAGE CV DISCOVERY BOOK an irrewii^ar and confiifcd fca. Our little vcflel bc- II. ° *— ~.-*^ haved vei^ well, lliipping Init little ^vatcr. '797- July. In the morning the wind fixed in the S. AV. quarter, and the gale broke up. At 8 A. M., the fea having confiderably fallen, we bore up and made fail. 24 h. Fredi breezes and cloudy weather, with a confufed fwell. 5th. Frefli breezes and cloudy weather. At 2 h. we hove to, while the carpenters Helped the leak, which was found to be above water in the ftarboard quarter. w > \^ i ' \r At 3 h. and a half we difcovered the high land of Formofa bearing S. 30° E. At half pad 6 h. the ex- tremes extended from S. 28° E. to S. 23° W. five or fix leagues. AtSh. the wind moderated; and at 12 h. we faw a fmall ifiand bearing S. E. by S. ; and we had no foundings with 25 fathoms. We plied to the wind- ward till day-light, when the rocky ifland bore S. 50° E. ; the north part of Formofa extended from S. 50° W. to S. 10° E. ; and two ifiands bearing N. 64° E. and S. 84° E. We palfed between the Kocky Ifle and Formofa with a gentle wind and fine weather. At noon the N. W. point of Formofa, S. 88° W. ; N. E. point, S. 48° W. ; extreme beyond ditto, .Uritisic. TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. Quelang Ifland, S. 72° W., which lays off the har- bour ; and the three illands to the feaward, N. 10° W., N. 13° W., and N. 55° W., four to fix leagues diftant No current fmce laft obfervations. 60 fathoms, no bottom. 231 ditto, appearing detached, S. 22° W., four or five chap. leagues off fiiore. ^^^' 1797- July. In the diredion of the ifland of Quelang, the main land of Formofa appeared very high ; and on the lar- board entrance, as you fail towai-ds the harbour, is a confpicuous bill of a conic form, from whence the low land conmiences extending to the fouthward. Some low land al(b projects from the N. W. part, which is in general very elevated. The latitude of the north pohit of the iiliand may err a little, fuppofing we did not fee the extent of the low land. At 6 h. it was calm, when the N. E. part of Formofa bore S. 67° W. The night was variable, with light airs, which in the forenoon increafed from the fouthward. 6th. ilil ■ •■■i! At 11 h. feeing the appearance of broken water, we tacked ; but having no foundings at half pad, we again refumed our courfe. At i ft lil ^ m 420.2 \] ' I ^ BOOK 11. 1797. •July. Jtli. /A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY At 151). we hove to for an hour. No l)ottom \\i\\\ 90 futhoim. At22h. 3b 111. ue fav/ an iiland to the E. N. E., ■which at noon pveferved the llinic bearing, i'lve or lix leagues diiUmt. At 1 h. feeing fonic high j)cak(Hl rocks o[)cn with the call extreme of tlic iiland : at half pall, we bore up and paifed to Icevvard of the iiland, ranging it Avithin two miles, without having any foundings with .50 lathoms. The land was high, forming two peaked i'lills. Its grcalcll dirertion was Eall and Weft three or four miles, entii-ely covered with fniall wood up to its fumniit. To the N. E. of it, three or four miles, is a continued chain of rocks above and under water, fcemingly connected with the peaked rocks. They bear Eall one mile from the iiland, which is lituated iu the latitude of 25° 40' N. and longitude 123° 27' E. At o li. we faw another iiland bearing N. 60° E ; and at 5 h. 30 m. it bore North two or three miles. It was of little extent, and of moderate elevation, and, like the other, well covered with wood, bounded by a rocky fliore. We place it 2.^ 48' N. and 123° 3:/ E. At 7 h. the lirfl iiland bore S. 69" M'., and the 6 fecond i /■v/,/,,,, '/,,/, '//"'■/:■ '•/■'/•v '',///,/>,.■ .///'■ ,'^/.'i f, /// '^ .A I i,lh..;..l .!/ /"/y ,>./^;,, -, li..;.-l l/iii . //'./ 'I f.i 1 1 lit < I , f I. -i^i H .5 ' Mdiit, TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. fccond N. 80' W. Having fine nioon-Iiirht wc con- tiiuiccl our coinfc to the eaftwartl, founding occafion- ally without reaching bottom. At 12 h. 30 in. we faw an high rock bearing E. i S. At 1 h. fteering E. N. E. we paflcd about three miles North of it, without foundings at 50 fathoms. At 2 h. it bore South ; and at 18 h., S. 87» W., juft in fight : it refembled the rock caUed Pula Sapula, in the Chinefe feas. By the ob- fbrvation at noon we found the current had fet us to llie N. E. 42 miles thefe 24 houi-s ; which bei.ig al^ lowed for, in fettling the fituation of the rock"^ its latitude will be 25* 57' N. longitude 124° 30' E., al- lowing the current to be regular to-day. ^1 1 'I At 11 h. wc faw land bearing E. | S. At If h. it extended from S. 49° E. to 77° E. It was low in the middle of the ifland, but the fouthcrn part was rather high. We failed within three miles of the fliorc, having no foundings with 50 fathoms. From each extreme extended a long fandy fpit, with a detached rock South of each. The land appeared well cul- tivated; and we could perceive feveral habitations. In the morning the natives came off to us: we found them the fitme race of people we had fcen at Typinihn, ccpuilly docile and communicative. At 8 A. M. wc II It fa\r m. '■ : d Hi I 1 m P'^rr i V.'J4 15 O ( ) '7y7 ju!y. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVF.RV \\ (iiw more illniuls, of wiiicli thov izavo us tlicir I'l-vcral -' nanKs ; ;inil ciKiuircil of us it" \\v. did n(»* couic tVoiu ildlamlia. 'I'lii; illaiid liicv caini' I'roni was called Kooini-ranu;: their cullivatioiis up to the lidcs of the hills were in ridivcs ; aud ahovc them the country was will co\ciril with wood. At noon it horc from •S. .'31' \\. U> S. ()4'AV. four leagues ; Tunatchi, S. -W E. 'Ihis illand nuikes like a gunner's (juoin, and as fueli it was reujarkid laft to I lie wellward of the LiVuchieux, among the iMatehi Jllands. Karuniah, S. (i^)"" E.. ; Agenhu, N. ')4' K. ; and a fiflli, which was very i'niall, they called Tu-fi-mah, three or four leagues. t •H We t'ound the current flill to fet in the fame direc- tion, but not lb firong. 9tli. The current Hill fetting us to the caflward, we ap- j)roaehed the illands very faft ; and at 3 h. we kept our wind ; and at 3 h. 30 m. tlic weft point of Ka- nunah, on uith Tunatchi, S. 8° E Weft of Karu- niah about three miles, Ave {. '>iled a fnuill illand. At 4 h. 30 m. Karumah and Agenhu, in one bearing, K. 3' E. and 8.3° W. Thcfe illands are five leagues apart : we failed between them. At 7 h. the groupe called the Matclii Illands bore from S. 16° E. to S. 24- .1 TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. f^.'JiMV.: Tunairhi, S. (io. AV. ; Agcnhu, N. ;.r W. : chap the «xt.vmrs -.1 (inal Mcuchi.ux, irom N. K. to J^ ^. i.. lo L. l(;vcii cr cinlit Jcuj-aics. '797- July. At9h. uc iKiuIcd our wind, n„(] nlicd f. ., ,,,|. M'nrd till dny-ligl.t Nvitl, a froH. wind iVon, ,lu- ..ulh ward, uluMi beinir diOnnt from J^ioi,,,,,. .x /bur or i.vr IcMguos, wo flood lb,, it i,,,„,, ., ^^.j^^^, ,^^ „ ^ j^ we iKKl %l,t or the harbour of Napncban, brarinJ ^'='"'' ""''•'^'^v.i,s:,rl,;,in.r breakers. We plied to ^'"' <'n,tl.w.')r(i mi uo-n, Mhcn we obferved oiY the liaibour. ;\ h,w laudy jllaiid bears X. .^7° \]\^ /v^,,, N apj.elian roads (even or ci'dit miles • b indtl: etwcen which '- '^o't!' point of Lieuehieux we had ronndinosof f?S and 30 fathoms, corally bottom. Tl N. 14MV.,MVll from the 1 lis point bears liunimoc'k is on tl to tlu> w(>liwaril of it fbnin di( nth ])()int of Licpu'eux : a 11 le extrenie of it, and a reef yA-o]vai anee. At noon tl point, "liter part of this reef bore 8. 14° W. : Reef ^••hich forms the ftarboard entrance into the ioad S. 14' ]].; th<< harbour of XapacI «»r four Diiles ; MateJii IDands, f 0 paehan, S. 61° E. i] iree 8 ' ' rw ^>y f m'r mi! Vom S. 36' ^V. to N, Smuly Illand, N. A.'yo AV. to X. (J3° AV. three ^ieuehicux north extreme, N. 25° K. ; euiivnt finee noon of vtftert! IV OiV Eall. rrelli M li broe/es 235 r 111 I: ii III r If |, ••f 'i4 p ■A. 1 !:> ii I Will iff ■ i O 2 JO BOOK oil. »797- July tptlu A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY breezes and very pleafant weatliei' tVom tlic S. Wv quarter. After noon wc bore up tor the roads, keeping the fiarboard Ihore on boaid. We had irreguhu* found- ings from 1.5 to 1?| fatlioms ; and feeing rocks under our bottom, we hauled out and brought to, till a boat from the town full of people came off to us. They njoft willingly undertook the charge of conducing the vellel ; one of thein taking the helm, and another dire«5:\ing her courfe from the inaft-head. We pafled very clofe to the fouthward of a reef, which bears S. 20° W. from the Reef point one mile and a half, having no bottom with 15 fathoms ; and then fteered in E. S. E. for a building fituated upon fome elevated black rocks, which appeared like a block-houfe, when the entrance of the opening of the harbour bore S. E. by South. We hauled up for it, and came to an anchor in 12 fathoms, muddy bottom, at half a mile diftant, with the following bearings : the harbour, S. 35° E. ; Starboard point, S. 70° W. ; Low Illand, N. 57° W\ ; and reefs extending from N. 15° W. to K. 40° W. ; the idands of Matchi, N. 60° W. to 77* W. fix or feven leagues ; north extreme of the land of Lieuchieux, N. 18° E. fi Our i I ft iiJt^mL,^ 10 TI-IK NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. Oo 007 Om- iVieiuls left us in the evening, witli airurances chap. of'bcing iupj^licd with water, wood, and relrenunents, in (he nioining, but requeaed us not to go on ihore. It b!eu' Itrong horn the S. W. throughout the nioi-n- ing, wiJh fretiuent heavy fqualis ; but we rade very well iheltercd. In the eourle of the day ^^c received Avater by lliore-boats ; and in the evening, the weather moderating, the nialter was enjployed founding the roads. Early in the morning our friends fent us a bulhx-k, hogs, fowls, and potatoes, with abundance of wood and water, and ftrongly urging our de> parturc. III. >797- Julj'. ^§ i> ;l In the forenoon a junk arrived from Typiivfim; and a Japanefe junk failed out of the harbour, and pro- ceeded on her voyage towards Nipon, palling between the reefs to the northward. The wind ftill blew frefli from the fouth, which oc- cafjoned fo great a furf on the fliore that no boat could land except in the harbour, which to us M-as inadmilllble. 'J'his reltriaion was extremelv mortifv- mg, as I was anxious to accpiire fome knowledge of the manners and cuiloms of thefe ])eojile ; and all my endeavours had hitherto ])roved ineffedual : nor could my intreaties perfuade them to let fome of the officers ■i\ ! lU' J I i 1 1 t »■■ ^ .1' 1 ^ ill I "' I UOOK II. 1797- July. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY orticcrs y had '21 fatlioms, Jull after low \\aur; and within the port they had 7 fathoms. It took a wiclcninij; direction to the S. AV., and ^ TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 2o(J aiul was of coiifulcrablo extent. Tliey counted iiO CHAP, large junks at anchor, chielly Japanefe, iVom 200 to J^-^t. SOU tons burthen. 1797. July. On each tide of the entrance was an apparent block-lioule, or place of defence, built of ftoncs in a fquare form, with loo^, h.ojes. I'hc cauleway leading to the town was 300 or 400 yards long, with ai -hcs underneath, to give the water a free paflhgc ; for as the tide flowed uj) to the town, oyer the coral banks which extended from it to the pier-head, it was ne- ceflhry to give the water its courfe without any ob- ftru« tion. 'I'he town extended along the fnore to the North fome diltance ; au'l from the number of people we lUw at different times, I lliould fuppofe it very populous. The houfes were of one Itory, and tiic roofs covered with a brick tiling. Trees were inter- fperled among th(^ houles ; and the country rifmg to a moderate elevation at the back of the town, va- riegated with cultivations and clumps of woods, equally diverfified the view from tlu^ fea. At the extreme of the town, to the Xorlh, was a burial-ground. The tomb-ltones were whitened, and feemed to lay in an call and well diredion. They arc confpicuous as you I'ail into the roads. Thcfo i I' iiMAi ^ 5 ,1 ,1 1 ! i h ;(te,' 1 jU I' m ii i no A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY •1 -i -A^' ' . - 1^' !1 ^4 Hi BOOK Tlicfc people perfedly underftood our having beea *- — ^-^ at Typinfan, but could not comprehend what we had July. done with our incji ; not conceiving we had been fince at China. This luppofition may be fome reafon lor their not fuftering us to go on fliorc, as tb.cy could not alio underltand why we Ihould be fo foon in want of provifions : of whifdi circumftance we only made an excufe, that we might have fome coranumication with them. It will alfo prove how vcflels in diftrcfs may really benefit by the humanity and liberality of thefe iflandors, who confer favours, as far as I can judge, without expecting anv return for fo doing. In every other rcfpedt, except allowing us to land, they were obliging, civil, and attentive ; bringing off vegetables, and fome of their fpirits called fakki ; and at all times behaving with a degree of politenefs, which rendered their comj^any very plealing. They were alfo open and unrefervcd in their manners. We had only to himent our ignorance of their language, which pre- vented our acquiring any knowledge of their govern- ment. Every boat that came oft' alwa3's brought ditTorent })eople, Icemingly to gratify their curiotity in iecing the vefll'l : and obferving our people at their meals much excited their attention, A« '-.-•di^tZ^.. » s i n o nt as TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. As *.ur friends were convinced we had all our wants fupplied, they feemed very anxious for our failing ; and we took our leave of them in the afternoon. Wc prcfented them with a fpjing-glafs, tlie only thing they appeared deHrous of, and a drawing of the veffel, with a memorandum cxprcffing our nation and arrival. This ifland is called by the inhabitants Licuchieux, or Loo-choo, and extends from the latitude of 26° 4' N. to 26' 50' N., and from 128° 12' E. to 128° 45' E. Its greateft diredion is N. E. and S. W., nearly about 21 leagues. The harbour of Napachan is on the S. AV. fide, in latitude 26° 11' N. and longitude 128° 13' 30" E. The town adjoining the harbour is the principal on the ifland, and, as we underftood, the feat of government. The port is convenient for com- merce, and feenis to be the centre of trade between Japan and the fouthern iHands. They alfo trade to China and Forrnofa. The inhabitants are, in every refped of manners, cuftoms, and appearances, the fame with thofe of Typinfan ; and refemble more the Japanefe than the Chinefe : fpcaking with very little variation the language of the former, and writing after their manner. They were alfo well acquainted with China, and flicwcd us feveral articles from that 1 1 country ; 241 C IT A r. iij. 1797- July- if If t 'r'i ' 1 Mm j sll il wH V. SB i iji 11- ll f i\ L: |ii TIT- ^ 1^ M !*|. \ i w: A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY j t ■ 5 I't BOOK country; particularly Engliili broad-cloth, which they ^— ~/^— ' iccmcd to value *. 1797- July- Their junks arc the fame with the Cliinefe ; or at Icatt, the difl'erence in their conftrudlion is hardly per- ceptible. •Le Pere Gaubll, a miflTionary of the Jefults at Pekin, wrote a memoir on thcfe iflands, called by the Chinefc Lieou-kieou. See Lettrcs Edifiantes, torn, xxiii. p. 182. Some parts of the memoir are here traiiflated. «* Thefe iflands, fituated between Corea, the ifle of Formofa, and Japan, are thirty-fix in number. The chief ifland is called Lieou-kieou : all the reft have particular names. The great ifland is in extent from South to North more than 440 Chinefe furlongs, and 120 or 130 from Weft to Eaft. On the fouth fide this diftance from Weft to Eaft is not more than 100. The furlong mentioned here is the meafurc of roads ufed by the Chinefe : two hundred of them make twenty leagues at fea, or a degree of a great circle. The king keeps his court in the weftem part of the ifland ; the town is named King-ching. The palace is fituated near it, with four great gates fronting the cardinal points. At ten furlongs from the weftern is the harbour called Napakiang, or Napacl)an, as named in this voyage. The longitude of this palace is 146'^ 26' 27", and lat. 26° 2'. Of the 36 iflands which are fubjetl to the king of Lieou-kieou, eight are fituated to the north-caft of it, five to the north-weft of the part of the ifland called Cheouli, four to the Eaft, three to the Weft, feven to the Soutli, and nine to the fouth-weft. The names of the feven ifles to the South are Tai-ping-chan (off wliicli the Providence was wrecked), Ykima, Y-leangpa, Koulima, Tatama, Mienno, Oukomi, Pat- v.hong-chan, or as it is called in this voyage Pa-chu-fun, is one of the nine iflunds I (; ■^^^ TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. ccptiblc. They make ufe of matted fails, and ^vork them in the fame maimer. The boats they brought off water in were large and flat-floored ; and they made ufe of fkulls and oars. Their canoes were very inferior, being Hmply hollowed out of pine trees: they were chiefly en) ployed fifliing out at fea. Their fails were matted, and they went \ery faft through the water. 24'*, CHAP. III. lil 1797- July. At Lieuchieux tliey nianuftiaure their own gar- ments ; and their linen cliecks appeared equal to any of ours. According to the weather, they increafe or decreafe their garments in number ; and, like the Japanefe, the appendages to their drefs confift in a fan, pipe, and tobacco-box. Not being permitted to vifit the country, we can give no account of many of their produdions beyond iflands to the fouth-weft." For a further defcrlption confult the whole of Pere Gaubll's memoir. In Lord Macartney's embafly to China, edited by Sir G. Staunton, mention is made of his intention of vifiting Japan, and of the reafon$ wliich prevented him. There arc alfo inferted fome remarks on the Lieuchiei'x Iflands, and their mode of government: tlie Englifh met with fome anibafl^uiors going to China, to whom they are tributary ; and there arc obforvations on the propriety of fending an embafly from this country to thok illands.— See the Embafly to China, Vol. II. I I ^2 wheat. Sr ■''iii'a ill I- '.■< G44 i $$■ '^ H BOOK II. »797- July. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY wheat, millet, Indian corn, rice, and fwcet potatoes, in wliicli articles they feein to abound. They liad borfes and cattle, with hogs of a large breed, dill'ereiit from the Chinele, and fowls of a laro-c orowtli. Wc did not fee any geele ; but we left with them two pair belonging to the fchooner. The watch, N° 45, (licwTd the longitude of the harbour of Napachan, by two days' obfervations, to be 127° 25' 30" Eaft. As its fituation, or at leall the fouth part of the ifland, was pretty well fixed laft year, we were apprehenfive our watch mufl go irre- gularly ; and 3'et wc could not well account for it in fo fliort a time. Four days after failing, when our fitua- tion was well known, oflf the coaft of Ximo, by many obfervations this year as well as the laft, N° 45 made the longitude too little by 47' 45", with every proper correction between the interval of time ; which defeat being applied to the longitude fliewn in Na- pachan roads, makes it to lie in 128° 13' Eaft, which I take as the true longitude. And as the watch did not alter for the three days we were oft' and on the roads, I think there cannot be any miftake ; but rather fufped, the violent motion of the veflel, in the gale of wind off* Formofa, muft have affected it before our arrival. At ' TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. ^j.^^, At half pad 4li. wc got under way and flood out to chap. Tea. At 5 li. 22 in. the harbour liorc S. 58^ K. two or J-i^^ tln-ec miles, when we bore away and made fail. At jjJ^Al, 7 h. 30 m. the extreme point of Luo^icux, olf ^\ hicli were fome breakers, bore N. (iO° E. 'J'he land Irom this point tended to the Eall, and formed a deep bay. No foundings with 90 fathoms, two or three miles oft' lliore. We plied under eafy fail during the night; and at day-light, fouth extreme of Luchieux bore S. 26° W. ; the bay, Eaft ; an illand, with a fugar-loaf hill in the centre, N. 35° W. We ftood into the bay till we faw the reeks, at laft evening bearing S. 60- W., which plainly evinced we had a flrong current to the N. E. Being within four or five miles of the head of the bav, we wore, feeing the fouth fide covered with breakers ; and wc fleered to the W. N. W. Two fmall iHands ]ay between Sugar-loaf Ifland and Lieuehieux, with extenfive reefs projeding from their extreme points. It blew very flrong in fqualls, and the hazy weather prevented our feeing very dillinaiy, or we fliould have pafTed between the iflands. At 20 h. .30 m., having rounded the Sugar-loaf Illand, we hauled up ; and at 21 h. we difcovered more iflands to the N. E. We 8 flill ^m 1 • ' »l i^l| ill ' m Nil' ■JiO \ I. I ^1: \ '•">■ ^f 1^ BOO II. >797 July. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY K lull purfuccl the fame courfe, to pafs between them — ' and Liouchicux ; and at 23 h. we were a-breall of them. Half an hour afterwards we brought to, to obferve the latitude, having a frefli gale and a good deal of fea. At noon the north point of Lieuchieux bore * S. 80° E. three leagues ; Sugar-loaf, jull vifible through the haze, S. 58" W. ; extreme of Lieuchieux to the South, S. 45" W. ; a fmall ille, to appearance near the ihore. South ; extremes of an high broken illand, from K. 10° W. to N. 46° W., five or fix leagues diftant ; Low Illand, N. 57° W. ; extremes of another illand, from N. 67» W. to N.sr W., about four leagues, of moderate elevation. The northernmoft ifland I take to be what is called Brimftone liland in the charts ; which is fituated, by Van Keulen, to the Eaft of Lieuchieux. 13th. At 1 h. 45 m. the north point of Lieuchieux bore South, about four miles ; and we faw a low ifland to the N. E. At 3 h. 30 m. the extreme of the northern part, from S. 25° AV. to S. 67° W. ; the low ifland, from N. 20° W. to N. 25" E. five or fix miles, when we made fail to the N. E. At 4 h. 15 m. 'the fouth ex- treme of the low ifland bore AVcft, about three leagues. It was very low at each extreme, with breakers off the pohits ; and in the centre, of very moderate ele- vation. *: i vativ>ii. TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 247 This illaiid apj)eare(l like thofc wc had CHAP, hjtlicrto feen, lertile in appearance. ^^L^ At 5h. 1.5 ni. we faw a more extenfive ifland bear- ing N. by ^\. ; and at 7 h. it extended from N. to N. W. I W., but very indiftindly for the haze : wc elliniated it at three or four 'leagues diftance. Half paft, we brought to for the night ; and in the morning, to our furprife, we had no fight of the land. »797' July. i ii At 4 h. an illand was feen bearing N. N. E.. At 7h. 30 m. it extended from North to N. 50° W. two or three leagues. At 8 h. wc hauled our wind and plied to windward. At day-light the ifland preferved the fame bearings; and at 18 h. 30m. the north point bore Weft : and in the diredion of N. 80° W. from the point, we faw another ifland. The firft ifland is three or four leagues in extent, in a N. E. and S. W. line, low at each extreme, but rifing abiaiply Irom the fea on the call fide to a confiderable elevation, and very rock}-. On the weft fide were fcveral fmall vil- lages fciittcred along fliore ; and a fmall opening af- fordcil flicltcr to fome junks. Behind the viliaoes was cultivated land. At 20 h. the other ifland bore from Weft to S. 66° W. three or four leagues. It was moderately high, and diverfified with uneven ground ; but 14th. n M. ?! ■1/ . ,:!! i ' ^ 1 5248 i 1 5th. ? A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY but llie hills appeared rather -irren. At 22 h. 10 m. "\vc law a roek iVoni the main urging, bearing S. 80° W. four or live leagues. At 2.3 h. -we loll light of the I'econd ilhuul, bearing S. 22^ W. leven leagues. Thcfc iilands leemingly were dcftitute of wood. Frefli breezes and liazy weather. Buried Thomas Ilorne, feanian, who died the day before. lie was a fine adlive well-behaved young man, and one of our bell feamen. His complaint was a violent dyfentery and billious fever, which carried him off in five days. At 7 h. we faw two iilands making very high : they bore N. 47" W. and N. 73° W. ten or twelve leagues. Moderate winds and pleafant weather. We faw land from N. 25° W. to S. 78° W. ; and at 23 h. 20 m. the north extreme of it bore N. 73° W. feven or eight leagues. By the noon obfervations we have been fet N. 59' E« 53 miles. rl ^w 9 TO lilK NORTH PACIFIC OCKAN. :M) CHAP. IV. P.ijagc ahis the South and liojhrn Coa^A of ynpaiu^lVLutf Point.-^Arrhal for the fccond Tunc in Endcnm Harbour at Infu.—Sufpidous Behaviour of the Japancfc fettled there. r IJESM breezes and very iiazj : feeing ,,0 land to llie callward. At 4 h. l\ M . wc Imuled our wind ; and at lialf pan, we tacked and itood to the X. W., being convinced tlic land fecn in ' the I'orenoon uas the (ontliern part of Xinio. At day-light the land ex- tended iVoni N. Uf W. to S. 61" W. ■ a bay, N. 80° W. Thronghout the I'orenoon it was calm, and wc had no fonndings. At 20 h. wc faw more land to the N. E., in which diredion the current fet us very fall. At noon the eoail of Xiino extended from N. 46' E. to 'S. 77° AV. ; the bay, S. ()0" VV., fix or l(!v<'ii leagues off fliore. Our fituation was nearly the fame as on tlic I'ld of November iaft year, when N' J lliewcd the longi- i^ K tilde (M CHAP IV. 1797. July 1 6th. \m ,iri If! Mi J": H':^^' •*■* ■ :■ 1 'f^ i i C50 i I BOOK 1! July. 171)1. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY tudu 130' 42' E., and oblcrvcd dilhuices lOO" IT' K. N^ 45 now flicwcd the longitude 131" 42' K. And obferved dilhinccs 13'/'' 34' E. Mliicli Mill account lor ur not making the land we c\pcclcd, having had no oi>portunily hcforc of taking lunar oblcrvations. Current thcle 24 hours X..')!^ E. 47 miles. Eight airs and hazy weather. l()h. Calm till near noon. 522 h. At noon the land :\oni N. 22^ W. to S. 67° ^\ . four or nve leagues. Current thcfe 24 hours N. 50° E. 31 miles. 1^ 1 8th. At ilnlet we were within two leagues of the land ; and we had 38 fathoms, fandy bottom : the extremes extending from N. (f E. to S. 33° W. Near the fea, the coaft was tolerably level ; but the interior part was very mountainous land. During the night aiid fore- noon it continued calm, with light airs at intervals ; and our foundings varied from 21 to 60 fathoms, as wc inercafed our diftancc from 5 to 12 miles off. ■(*■» ':■ In the I'orenoon we had four large junks in com- pany, but they took no notice of us. At TO TIIE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. At noon it was very hazy, when tlic vifihlc extremes CHAP, bore from N. Ijy \\. to 8. S. AV., four miles off ihore. ^^ Current thefe 24 hours N. 5?° 1'.. KM miles. Ob- jj,?/; ferved diftunecs o and j 1.j2° 03'. 36 fathoms water. At '2h. we eamc to an anehor in 28 fathoms fandy 19th. bottom, three miles from the lliore ; the extremes bear- ing from N. ly E. to S. 15" W. A fifliing-l)oat eamc on board and gave us fomc fiili ; they made ufe of ikulis inftead of oars. AVith a hght air we got under way ; and througlioul tlie nisjut we had a eoiitinual foir. i i|| fti ' <■ Hazy and ealm weatlier throughout tlic morninir. At noon the extremes from 8. SiT AV. to X. y W'., of]' i!;ore three or four leagues. Current thefe 24 hours norlh-eafterly 18 miles. The breeze gradually dying away to our gr; ..t dif- appointment. The extremes at noon from N. 5^ W. to S. 70° AV. off fhoro three or four leagues. Current there 24 ; N. by E. 25 miles. iv K 2 Tuent\- 2 '-nil :ifl. ■I i in ■ in,! It 1m. I: ■I. i i III •:;V2 r> o o K ir. '797- July 22il. ^4tli. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 7'\vcnt y miles to the N. of account, nearly the fame as yellerdaN-. Our bearings AVitli a iight breeze ue Hood in fliorc, and at 7 h. uc tacked clofc in with the low land in 15 fathoms. The hisi;h land to tlie South bearing S. 4° E. three leagues. An inlet W. by S. one nnle ; feveral junks were at anchor within it: the entrance was narrow, but it feenied to adbrd good flicltcr within the points of the beach. This does not form a Iniy, but each extreme being bounded by very high land, makes it appear fo at adiftance : and in tlie interval is a con- tiderable extent of low coaft. Tlie furf broke very high along the fliore. The morning was calm, and a thick haze obfeured the land from our view. Eighty fathoms water, and this day we experienced Tio current. Calm till 2 h., when a fteady breeze fprung up from the fouthward, and the haze cleared away. At ^h. the hidi land fet the laft evening bore S. 44° AV. two leagues, when we tacked and fteered Eaft : as there appeared no probability of our making our courfc to the '«'■'.■ *l I I TO THE NORTH PACIFiC OCEAN. Hauled up to make tlic coaft ot Nipoii. We could fee diftinaiy fix orfeven leagues, and oui cftimated latitude was 32° 34'. Three junks were feeu liccring to the eaftward, but we had no light of tlie land. Calm, with frequent riplings, but no Ibuudinas. Current N. 81° E. 28 miles. Pleafant weather, but hazy round the horii izon, At 253 the South, from the wind and current oppoling each chap. other fo ecpially till to-day, when they both were un- ^!w fa\ nnable. Towards noon the wind came to the jj.^' welhvard, with very hazy weather. ' ^" By our obfcrvations the current nuift have fet us N. 64° E. 67 miles, which accounts for our not ieeing the land ; having been fet pad it at the rate of threC miles an hour during the night. The part we cxpeded to make is in 32° 30' W., and ought to iiave bore N. W. of us about five leagues. I imagine it to be the eallern extreme of the illand Ximo. :?tii ii m ■ ' 'i ■I- ).' i m •'i:M ■HW* ; ! Wr ' lii !( •ij4 BOOK II. lulv 26tli. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY At J h. Avc faw the land ])carino' North ; and at 7 h. it cxtcudod IVom X. 14° W. to N. 15° E. five or Icvcn IcagiK's. At half paft 1 h. wc brought to till day- liglit, when tlic land bore t'roni N. ;3> M . to N. 40° E. two or three leagues : 90 fathoms, no bottom. As the I'un rofc we obfervcd many boats in iliore under fail, alfo fcveral junks. fi After jialling what appeared like an illand, but ])roved, as far as we covdd Judge, to be a peninfula, the diltant land opened with it in the direction of X. 34° E. I. : t II On the X. E. extreme of the peninfula, whieli prefents a level furfaee, are four remarkable trees, diid Ibme roeks detaehed from it to the eaftward. In the direc^lion ofN. 30° AV. from the point of the trees, was a fmall harbour, in which feveral iunks >vero laving before a town. On the peninfula, and in the bays furrouiuling it, were feveral villages and feattered houfes, with great cultivation about the country. IVIany boats were lilhing, and an infinity of various li/es were failing along the Ihore to the Eaft and A\eft. '*! ', The « TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 255 I'he interior land was rather higli and much CHAP. l)r()Lcn, lonning hills with Iharp ridges running parallel -i'~ with each otlier in a N. E. and S. \V. direction. The VJ^' Tea eoaft was a fandj hcdch intermixed with roekrs, and " ^* clumps of woods appeared in the hollows of the riling gi'ounds above the lliore. Several fiOrmg i^oats came off to us in the courfe of the day to fatisfy their curiofity. 'J'hoy were well niaped with ])i-ojec^ting fterns, and fmely decorated with paint, the ground-work being black. Eacii boat had 13 men, with live ikulls of a fide; and they went through the water with great velocity. 'J'hcy wcic 39 feet long, 0"| feet wide. At noon, light breezes and fine weather ; tlie north extreme bore N. 20° E and the peninfula forming the fouth extremes from S. 70° ^\'. to S. 88^ W. three or four leagues; our diftance Irom the fhore four or live miles : the harbour bearing N. 82° W., and wc had no foundings with 90 fathoms. It was nearly in this fituation we made the land on the 17th. of November lall year, in a hard gale of wind from the 8. W. quarter. It is the Ibuth point of Nipon, and is lituated in the latitude 33° 25' N., and !' ' i ■'W i m I 2.36 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY It. ■, ■■..■ r ■ : { ? ■ . ^ ^ J i.l.l-'i ? * BOOK and lonsjitudc 13.5° 47' 0" E. Tlio infulated appearance ^— --*-' oi'thc peninruhi m ill always make it known. « 797- July. 27tli- TIk; foutli extreme of Nipon S. .H" W. fix leagues, the extreme land to the North N. '29° E. ; oft" Ihore two or three leagues. The extremes of land from S. 69° W. to N. '20° E. ; it eontimied hinh and much broken. At noon an openinjx with an illand in the centre of it bore N. 54° W . ; and the extremes extended from N. 13° K: to S. iky W ., oil" Ihore four leagues. iSth. Scarcely any current : the coall appeared indented by projecting points. At 4h. the north extreme, iiiakinu; like an illand bore N. '21° E., and to the north- ■ward the land became very low. At 7h. the apparent illand bore N. .30 W. : outer low point N. '30° E. three leagues. South t^xtienjc; S. ()4° W. three or four leagues from the eoalt abreafi of us. At 9h. we were well up with the low point, and we law many lights on tliore. After ruimins eiirlit miles we brouijht to till day-light, having no foundings with 7j fathoms. Tlie moriiing was calm, haz>, and we could not diitinguilh the land. At 6 A.M. a breeze ipringing Ui), ■ ■% TO -im NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. ;.;rUn,„enoo..oc,,eN.E..a„;,at„o:;,,ee::.::;:; « n,,„. w. , K to N. E. WU,.dN. "• iour leagues. Current N. 75" £. 3,5 n.ilcs. ••\t 2 1,. ,vo fleered i„ the dircaion of the coa(i „ hieh "- Wnndfand, towards the roa. hut the "" "" ^<""" '"" ••"■''"g-l' f- the l.a.e. !u ^,e extremes „e could d.liem from N. ftl^ j. ,„ ^- ro W„ our diftance from the /l.ore three or '/bur -sues aud ,ve had no foundings with 80 fathon. of ">t. Several ,,u„ks were feen „,aki„g their different voyages up and down the coaft. The forenoon was very ha.y. whieh prevented our Jecng the land diftinctly. At noon the extrel northern ponUs bore N.32» E.. and was the exte eommgl, of the fand, fl.ore. The coaft from then! fell haek to the North very eonfiderabi,. as if the was fon,e opening round it ; and in whieh direaion vc faw feveral boats returning from fea. where the^ l.ad been a fiflung. The other extreme bore N. 40° W four or five miles. <1 *'"^ • ^ 1 *'!'' »c flood in for it- inH -.f oi i •797- Jw)v, 29tli. ' I m mm I. L Light t: iff I i;!"»^i^ .I t * ( i J ii ti 258 BOOK II. 7uly 3otli. 31ft. if. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Light breezes and very hazy weather. At half pad 1 li. the north extreme let at noon now bore Nortii, tbin' or five miles ; land open with it extended to the N. E., more diilant. At half pall 4 h. we pafl'ed fome high land, with llcep clayey cliffs, which at 6h. bore N. 50° E. about three leagues. At day-light we were well up with the iOands South of Jeddo bay, extending from N. E. to S. E. by S. ; and the extreme of Nipon, N. 60° W. At 5 h. A. M. we tacked to the North. The forenoon was very hazy and calm, which prevented our feeing any diilant objects ; and at noon we had the following bearings : two hummocks illands in one, S. 30° E. feven or eight miles ; Volcano Ifland, N. 32° E. to N. 83° E. ; ex- treme of Nipon, from N. 10° W. to S. 80° W. No foundings. During the night we had thunder and lightning, w ith moll oppreffive heat. Current N. 72° E. 15 miles. A llrong current fet us to the North, between Vol- cano illands and the wellern Ihore of Jeddo bay. At 4 h. the north part of the illand bore Eall, two or three miles ; and on the well fide we obfervcd a largo village. This illand was very high in the centre, riling gradually 10 THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN', .*:)9 Ln-adiuilly iVom lacli cxtivme ; and we oljlorvcd fovcral CHAP times laigc c(;lunins of black finokc illuing IVoni the ^^ ' iidc of the (laftern highcft j)art of iho moimtuiii. At 7 li. the illaiid extcjided Irom S. o" E. to 8. 40° E. three miles. Jii the iiioniing at I? h. the euil entrance into Jtxldo bay bore N. .5' W. to N. 20" AV. The wind eontinned variable and calm till noon, when the cit; point, forming the entrance into the bav, bore S. 80° \V. three leagues. Several boats came oil", and bartered their filli for trities. 1797. July- m AVc made fail for White Point, which at 4h. bore N. 20° \y. At 7 h. u'c were a-breall of it, bearing, in one Avith the round mountain, N. 8?° W. We had nine fathoms water, three or four miles from the flioic. White Point is remarkable, and eafdy known in any diredion, being iinieh higher than any land near it, and terminating abruptly towards the fea, m ith white cliffs capped with wood ; the land on each fide re- ceding from it. After leaving it we gradually deep- ened our w ater to 20 and 30 fathoms. The extremes to the North being very low, bore N. N. E., and to- wards the 8. W. extreme point, 8.43° W. The night was moderate; and in the morning at 17 h. the land extended from N. 3° E. to N. 30° W., four or fix L L 2 leagues. Augult lit. Wif Hi: 41 f 'Ui w !«'!'7r'i I r '260 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY I u i ', n ^^1 •-97- Augult ROOK leagues. The north extreme appeared lik«^ an iniiixi, but it is not Co. I eonceive it to be Sjind-down Point. The coall between it and White Point is very low, falling baek to the weftward between the two points. >Vc law nothing of what Captain King (in Cook's voyages) calls Ilumnioek Pdand ; but I imagine whut he took for it was the elevated part of Sand-down Point, which has that apj)rarancc at a dillance, from its forming a projctl'ling point, and the low land not bcino; viliblc fn the morning we had many fifliing boats on board. 'I'lu^y were much fmaller than thofe feen off Jeddo bay, and made ufe of fme matted fails, exeept a cotton cloth in the n)iddle. Each boat admitted water for the prefervalion of the'r fdh. At noon Sand-down Point bore S. 15° W., five or fix miles ; i\\u\ the north extreme, N. 50° W., four or five off thore. In the afternoon at .'3 h., when AVhite Point bore due North, we got fome obfervations for the watch, which ihowed the longitude 13f>^ 46' 10" E., by IMacao rate ; White Point, 140° 40' 0" E., by Cap- lain King: latitude 35° 13' N. I therefore take a ucw departure, allowing the point to be well fixed by the obfervations made in that voyage. We ■ TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. We llecml in ll.o diroaion of the coafi, live or ih ^»''- - 1^1 >V . At 8 h. oureaimated latitude was rM^ '>i Norlh, whieh is nearly the lituation of Low Point At 12 h.. 50 fathoms. "'' '261 CHAP. IV. '797- Augull llio n)orning was a very tiuek fog, whieh eleared 'Hvav at I()h., and we faw the high land extendin.. i.om S. ^y. by S. to N. W. by N. : the nearefl pan 3 or 4 miles. At 'JO h. 45 m. the fog entirely difperfed • and we fleered along the lliore, which was bold and chfly. Our fituation in the morning was jull to the North of Cape de Kennis, but the fog j,revented our ieemg it. At noon the extremes of land bore from N. W. to S. by W. i W. : neareft fliore five or lix miles. At 35 m. paa 2 h. we faw land extending from ■V- 34' E. to N. 5:y E. feven or eight leagues ; and at •> h. the inam land, running out to a low point, bore N lo^K., leaving the angle between the lands fo 1»'^h11 as fo render the palTage between them uncer- tain ; j.'i Mil ), I < ml ■■"if i } Ml" I I "^WJi m 2(>0 w - ■ ii /■ II. '797 A VOYAGK OF DISCOVERY K liiiii ; v,c li.crolorc liaiilcd up to wratlin', ulinl 1 lup- -' polld to hi\ the ilhnuls of l\Iatzim;i : llic liiiili land 1. on tlKMnain bcaiini; \Vcit. At Iiairj)all ? Ii. the nortli j)arl ol" P<'nkr(l lllaiitl, ■svliicli is not \\\c UMitlu'rninoli, l)oro Wcii, tlircc or lour luik's; aull covered with wo(k1, iven uj) to tiie juak. Somjo low ilhnuls bear iVoiu it N. 4 E., but at no ureat diliauce. 'J\vo Hat iilauds of fome extent arc five miles to the M cfl of IVakcd liUuid, with ii clear paflhgc fccmiii^ly between ihein and the other land, in the diredion of N. 40° W. When the fouth point of Peaked Ifle bore Weft, the fouthcrn tiat iiland bore S. 77° W ; extreme iiland to the North, N. 15°W. Sounded with pO fathoms, no bottom. At 8 ii., and at IHh., wc brought to for the nio'ht. In tlie morninsx wc had moderate wcatiier, and the Peaked Jtland bore S. 3.^ ^\ . ; north ex- treme, N. 30° W. ; and we fteered in for tiie land. At 8 h. A.M. the Ibuth point of an oj)ening, oft' which arc two or three high rocks, bore AVeit three or four miles ; Peaked Ifte, S. 10° W. ; the low iilands without it. At 10 h. A. M. the paiTagc up the opening made very clear, in the dirediion of S. 05° W. There are detached rocks on each fide of the entrance, and the 7 channel I TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. dilhuicc, it appeared to take a wiiuling courfe. To the north of the opening is a Ihiall hny, with iilots and Scattered rocks, on wlijch tlic fea broke. The northern point was richly cnlti\ aled ; and on the (ba-lidc was an extenlive town. 2G3 dinnncl appeared narrow. After runnini; up fonic chap. ^ IV. >797' Au^jud. At noon pleaftmt brccj^es and fair weather. Peaked Jlland, S. 10° W. ; rocks olV the (buth point of tlie opening, 8. 28° W. nine miles ; north extreme, N. 30" E., ofi'tlie nearell Ihorc tiu'ce or four miles. At 1 li. we were a-breaft of a deep openino-, runnino- lip in a N. W. direction. On the ibiith fide are two hills : the fouthern one is bare, with a clump of trees upon it; the other richly clothed uith wood, extend- ing to the point which is rocky, and of moderate eleva- tiun. When to the North, this hill relembles a fugar- loaf. 'i'he north |)oint is bare, Avith a confpicuous clump of trees on it: and olT are two conical rocks, which are not li^en when to the Soutli. The countrv was well cultivated ; and many houlcs were Icattered along the iliore, and numerous boats were fillnno-. I iliould imagine this harbour to al^brd good flicker, and to be very eafy of acccfs. No foundings with 70 fathoms. 4th. I If '.! i m^ W i'f ii ] mwf ill .> '*,'c 'Joi. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK fallioins. To the North of tlie h.arbour tlio laiul rofe IX* — ~^— ' to a great height, forming projccling and al)riij)l heads Aug.ili:. towards the fea, leaving bays between them of eon- rideral)le extent, in a N. W. diroetion. A\ e had l)af- tling Avjncis and eahns under the high land, whieh was bold and rocky ; and we could not reach ll-o liottom villi all our Hue. I I I if At 8h. we were abreaft of the higjj table moun- tain bearing Well, when our t lieemed latitude was "[f \6' N. ; extremes from North to South 53^, olV ihore four or live miles. At day-light we had the land bearing from N. .'50° W. to S. 4'2" W : our diAance two or three leao-ucs from the iliore. We continued ourcourle ; and by '20 h. w^e opened a deep inlet, the points in one bearing S. 7^° W. four miles : at the fame time, the eail entrance of Port Nambu, N.oo° W. two or three leao;ues. A boat came olf from the inlet, and ftrongly prelVed us to go into Nambu. Towards noon the wind died away, and we remained five or lix miles from the land : the inlet bearing S. 43° W. ; lo\'^ point of Port Nambu, N. 87° W. 6'; extremes, from N. 28° W. to S. 2'i°W. Our Japanefc friends not fucceeding in ptrfuading us to go into Nambu, foon after returned to the inlet. The i^ .i«i><-4i. ..^ TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 7'Iic current fetting to the foiithward, we preferved nearly the fame fituation. The inlet South of Namhu took a S. W. diieaion, and to appearance afforded good il.elter. The S. E. point of entrance is very high bold land : the fummit covered with trees, and IS remarkable by being much more elevated than the coaft to the fouthward. Some rocks lay off the N. W. point, which forms a projeding hummock. The fore- noon was calm and mild weather ; but to our furprife M-e faw no fidiing boats, nor junks making their coaft- ing voyages, as we had before frequently obferved to the fouthward. Point of Nambu harbour, S. 84" W. four or five miles ; Inlet, S. 38' W. nine miles ; ex- tremes, from N. 32'' W. to S. 24' W. We frequently tried unfuccefsfully for foundings. Calms and light airs flill continued, attended with fome rain in the morning. The entrance to Port Nambu was well open, bear- ing S. 59' W. ; and the inlet, S. 28' W., off the former three leagues. At noon the inlet, S. 3V W. ; and Nambu entrance, 8. 68° W. feven or eight miles. Muttered the people, and read the articles of war. M M Light 26\5 CHAP. IV. »797- Augud 5th. 6th. til 4 ''.:u \U. m ;> 'h Ij, si lip l li |i M 1 1 1 1 j ■ ■I i k 11',' ! ' ;' , I". J' il' 266 1797- Auguft 7th. A VOYAGE OF DISCOITRY Light winds, calms, and variable weather. During the night we had a thick fog, which difperfed in the morning ; and we had cloudy weather, with fonie rain. Vi i li I ^ Slh. At noon the port of Nambu bore S. 10* W, on with low land ; extreme land near the inlet, S. 3* W. ; ex- tremes to the North, N.51° W., off fliore five or fix miles ; an opening, Weft. Light airs and calms, making our progrcfs along the coaft very tedious. At 7 h. the opening bore 35** Weft, two leagues. An ifland is off the north point ; and we had 55 fathoms, black fand. The north ex- treme bore N. 55° W., very low land ; the high land about Nambu, S. 3° E. A junk came out of the liarbour, and in the night fpoke to us ; but we could not underftand them. A fine morning gave us a diftin6i view of the land, which ftill extended to the W. N. W., very low. Some high land extended from S. 50° W. to S. 80° W. : it is the only elevated part between Nambu and the north point of Captain King's chart near the coaft. The country was univerfally laid out in plantations, affording a plcafing profpcd. At noon it became \cry TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 267 XTry hazy over the land, Avhcn the north extreme bore chap. N. 75° W. ; Near Point, which projeaed from the wi^ Iiigh land, S. 8r VV. ; a white rock clofe to the fliore, aV^J^ S. es" W. two or thicc leagues. Forty-five fathoms,* "^^ ' fand and fhells. As Ihe haze cleared away we perceived the land ttill to tend to the W. N. W. ; and at 1 h. we difcerned high land bearing from N. 24° W. to N. 34' W., which feemed to be a continuation of Nipon. The fliore to the North of the point fet at noon, S. 81" W., re- ceded confiderably, and either formed a large bay or harbour ; but probably, from the appearance of the low ftiores, it was the entrance of a river. The junk, having accompanied us all day, entered the opening. We altered our courfe for the diftant land, which at 7 h. bore N. 25" W. ; high land, N. 37" VV. to N. 60" W. : and the hazy weather prevented our feeing the low land any diftance. South extreme, S. 50" W. In the evening the wind died away ; and throughout the night and morning w6 had a thick fog. At times in the forenoon it cleared away, which gave us an op. portunity of feeing the high land to the N. W. By noon the fog difperfed, and we were well up with it ; the outer extreme bearing N. 28" W. nine or ten M M 2 mile«. gth. m ill f' i *ii' II' <26'8 BOOK II. 1797. Augufl. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY miles. Tliis head hind rofc abruptly from the fea to a coufidcrabie height, bold and .elitly. Within the outer extreme the ihore prefented a barren appearance, but not lb elevated, till it joined the high land, which was much broken : the extreme part of it extended to S. W., when the low land continued to the South as far as we could fee. An extenfive village was feen to the W. S. W., with the cultivations furrounding it afcending the hills, in ridges one above another. A fandy beach Ikirted the fliore, from whence we were diftant four miles. We experienced this day a foutherly current of 14 miles* In the evening and morning, and during the fog, we were continually troubled with a variety of brown peterels, having the outer part of their wkigs tipped underneath with white. They made an unufual chattering noife, and were in great numbers. •A. loth. At 7 h. we were only abreaft of the outer extreme head fet at noon, now bearing N. 65° W. At the extremity of the low point beyond it are fome de- tached rocks ; they bore N. 40° W. five or fix mile&. Some very diftant high land was obferved to the W. N. W. The night was very Ibggy. In M I 10 THE* NORTH PACWIC OCEAN. In the moniiunr we liad a iVcih breeze from tl;o S. E., ivliieh it.crealecl the fog till near nooji, Mheii it eiitiiely tlifperfed. We experienced this day 2? miles of foutherly current. At 1811. we juftgot fight of the rocks, bearing Well five or fix miles ; but we got no view of the land, the fog coming on again fo immediately. We purfued our courfe for Volcano Bay ; and at 22 h. we faw Point Efarme to the W. N. W. At noon it bore N. 80° W. ; abrupt head on the N. E. point of Nipon, S. 30° W. ; high mountain,, S. 47° W. 8' ; the extremes of Nipon very high, S. 6?" W. Soon after noon the wind fliifted to the weft- ward. Point Efarme, S. SV W. The fliore from this point took a S. W. by W. diredion. Our diftance was three or four leagues off. Variable weather. At noon Point Efarme, S. 15" W., on with the main land of Nipon ; north point of Volcano bay, N. 63° W. four leagues ; extremes of Infoo, from N. 15' E. to 8 N. 802 £C0 C II A P. iV. '797- Auguih nth. 'U .\ •1 ■ ' \ ii ri. i J'lMf if M^ f ' II 1> 270 A VOYAGE or DISCOVERY BOOK N. 80*E. ; fouth Volcano, S. 78° W. ; mountain in •^~ Nipon, S. 10'' W. Calm weather and fair. »797- Auguft "'^- At 6h. 30 m. the high mountain in Nipon anJ Point Efarme bore S. 8° W. 'f i t Variable weather. We fteered in for the bay, as wind permitted. At 7h. 30 m. Point Efarme bore South. ; ( The wind favouring us, we fteered for the entrance of Endormo harbour ; and at 3 A. M. we came to in nine fathoms, muddy bottom: Hans Oldfon liland bearing S. 77° W. two miles. In the forenoon the boat was employed up the harbour, fceking the moft convenisnt place for our wooding, watering, and making obferyations, &c. Fair and pleafant weather. Obfervcd the latitude on (hore. I 1 ^^ " 1 1 1 In the afternoon we got under way and run up tl.c hiiibour, wliere we moored in three fathoms water, jHMfrc^^ly flieltered from every wind, and within two (n hits' length of the Ihore, and a-breaft of a fine ftrcam of water. Several houfes were fcattered along the .1 *> Jn . TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. iilaud, who very foon paid us a vifit. Wt immediately commenced our operations, but the bad weather much impeded our j.rogrefs. The wmds were chieriy from the S. E. quarter, with fume ram ; and on the 14th it blew very Urong. Tiie con- ftant gloomincfs of the weather was extremely un- favourable for the regulation of our time-piece ; but we embraced every opportunity of taking equal aK titudes. 271 tliefl.orc, inhabited by the inoffenHve natives of the chap. lllanrL whf» v«rif r«..« :.i - ■ r. . jy. 1797. Auguft. m Two days after our arrival we were vifited by fomc Japanefe, who came from the town of Matzmai, as we underftooa them, on purpcfe to find out of what nation we were, and our intentions in coming here. And on the 18th our old friends arrived ; the fame we had noticed laft year for their civility. They feemed much furprized at feeing us in fo fmall a veffel, and could not well account for our coming here again! As they came exprefsly to look after us, and to pre- vent our intercourfe with the natives, wc had aluays their company either on board or on ihore, where they rcfided oppolite the veflel. They were anxious for oui- departure, and lirongly urged it every day, but I. Ml r f t^ 'jl: 272 i ,i f i '^ A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK but in a very civil manner. 1 liad to rc2;rct wc could ^— ^-*-' not und(M'ftiind each other better, this man being Auguii:. equally intelli2jiblc and comniinrkative. I acc^uircd from him a very compleat map ol' the .fapanefe iilands, witli llrong injunctions not to acknowledge from whom I procured it ; as they explained the parting with it would bring them into difgrace and puninuiient, were it known. p. Thefe people informed us that the proper name of this extenfive ifland was Infu or Infoo, and univer- fally called fo by the natives : Matzmai applying only to the town and diHridt inliabited by the Ja- panefe, fituated oppofite to the coaft of Nipon, in the ftraits. They alfo informed us of the Rullians trading to Ago-dad-dy, a port on the idand to the N. E. of Matzmai, M'hich they reprefeiated as a very good harbour, much fuperior to Endormo. There is another town in the ftraits belonging to the Japanefe, but I did not learn the name. *^i (1 The peninfula about Endormo is very thinly in- habited ; and in the harbour the men feemed to have no other employment but fidiing for their daily food, M'hilc tholb who lived on the other lide of the ilthmus, TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. iftl.inus, open to the fca, Mere always found colled- ing the feed-weed (fueus facharinus), whieh they clned n, the fun and made up in bundles for exporta- tion. Great quantities of this weed dries upon the Ihores of A oloano bay, whieh makes a confiderable trade to Matzmai, from whence it is exported to Nipon. 273 CHAP. IV. '797- Auguft. Ill n lii fi ii id N N ml 'M'-U fi , n yr li 11 II H IS CA 174 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY h r.ooK II. Aiij;ult CHAP. \. O/T /''-f' 7o:i';; o/" Muz'/nn in lufu. — P/\uu'd thnw^b ihc Stniiti (f S:i'\:^(ri7r. — R,in>^c ti/on^ the IVcJhrn Coajl of hifu. — Peaked Ijland or Tiiwjbcc.^— Advance lo $z'^ North Latitude. Kjs Monday \vc had foin()lot,ely irlitled tho Iclioonrr lor loa, amply provided M'illi wood and water; and by laying her on (liorc we had repaired the defective copper on her bottom. The following morning we took leave of our Japanefe iVicnds, and to their great latisfaClion we failed out of the harl)our. 'J'he Avind blowing Ireih at S. K. with dark, i>loomy weather; we eame to in nine fathoms olf the entrance, Hans Oldfun llland bearintj; S. 5° E. one mile. 23d. In the morning it was moderate and fair, with the wind from the eaftward. At 8h. A.ISI. wc got under way, and flood over for I'oint Jifarne. 'J'he harbour at noon bore N. 37^ E. nine -or ten miles, where our 7 elevation TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 275 elevation nuulc the. latitude 42^ I'J' y N., n.cr. alt. chap. :)^' 56' 30". V. We had IK) opportunity of makino. any otljoi- ol.lc'ivations for the longitude of Endonno harbour than thole which uciv, taken lall year in \'olcano Uay, uhich fix its fituation to bo in the latitude of 42" ly'Qy" N., and 14 h ?' SO'- E. J 707. Augud. By equal altitudes taken on fliorc between the 13tli of Auguft and the 2111, the watch xVo. A3, ap- peared very materially to have altered her rate. And on the 2111 of Augull at noon, was How of mean time at Greenwich Oh. 7m. lOs.59, and gaining per day 1.20s. on mean time. The watch made the longitude on our arrival 140° V 0" in the harbour, which is an error of 1° 2' 30" in 46' days. 'J'hcrmometer from 6j° to 80°. At 2h. 30 m. we tacked clofe in with the fouth Volcano in ^k^ww i'athoms. Calm weather and \ery hazy, 48 fathoms. Rocky and fandy. Light airs. At noon the fbuth Volcano bore N. 58° W. Extreme towards Matzmai S. 69° W., and the main land i)f Nipon S. \ty ¥a. to S. 34° W. No bottom with 50 fathoms, vn2 The 2^-;. 'II: i • I If! i:7(^ no OK 11. Aiigull. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Tlie Vol.ano Wol>, and roint Kfarno ](>^ K. at. ilavliiilil. lU noon it bore Well two or three miles. It I'onns .1 renK\rkal)le round head land, th(^ upinr j)art l)are, \\ hieh is oecal'ioned hy tlie hiva that has run down it on the tides : between the drains it is covered with wood, and on the N.AV. liiU; we liiw the tiuoke al'eendinu iVoni the erater. ■ '% ,5 h > i-'^ :t;i. Frelli breezes and tair weather enal)U'd us to ttreteh acrofs the ttraits tor Xipon : at .'» h. wc taekeii in 70 ialhotns ; tlie N. E. point of Xipon or ("a])(r Nandju bearing S. 40' E. two leagues ; the other extrenu' W. I X. The high land S. 40° W . l)elweeu this land and Cape Nandju is an extenfivc bay with a low coalt between them : the bay is of no depth. "NVe cojitinued plying to the eattward tluring the night, but in the morning we found we had lofl grounil. A\ 11 h. 40 m, we had 40 fathoms, coral and Hones. At'ih. A.1M. 48 do. At 4 h. do. (JO, land and Hones. I F) JM I'oint Efarne, Weft two leagues ; no ground with 80 fathoms. Within the point in Volcano bay is a fmall bay, and many houfes fcattercd about it. Calm •; ' t 10 THE NORTH PACHIC OCEAN. .'?/ '797- Augull • Calm till 4li. when a fine biroze Ipriiigiiig up, ur. chap. flood over for Nipon. At 71). Cipc \junbu, S. Hf W.: ^^— and Point F/urnc, N. VV. ; and loon after uc tacked. J^y the altitudes taken this afternoon for tiic M'atch, ilie ihcwed the longitude of Point Efarne ()' JO" too much. Tiie true latitude of the Point is 41° 4()' 20' N.. and longitude 141° 20' 0 £. By applying the Maeao rate irom Endormo harbour, it agrees wilhin l'.30"of longitude. 4 Moderate and elinidv weather. At day-light ue found a ftrong ealterly current ftill prev(Mited our getting to the weihvard ; and at noon Point Efarne bore S. 14^ W. one mile. Xo Ibnndings, at the fame time, with 90 fathoms of line. Cai)e Nambu and Point Efarne bear from each other N. 22" W. and S. 22' E. nine leagues. . Wc kept plying in Efarne bay, whieli aftbrd.i good anchorage clofe in, and well flickered from the wefterly winds. AVc found many junks riding here, \vith cargoes of fca-wecd, waiting for a fair wind to profecute 27tli, ;i ; ijj i| ^11 f 'f '{'■if r 1 i '♦78 o BOOK II. 1797- A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY profbcute tlieiv voyaled o us to kee[) in Avith the eoall of Nipon and avoid the current, which we could plainly ililiinguilli without us ruiming with raj)idity. liefore we came a-breafl rarings m I f fl •; I o O f! 10 THE NORTH PACIFIC OCKAN. Tkarinos at noon : the illand, S. 87' £., ,„il i,i /iul.t, three or lour Joui^m.os ; cull point of tho harbour <>' Aoodaddy, N. rr E., alK.nt lour Icao-ues • cx- t>om.sorNi,K>n, S. ^ W. fiv. Ungues, makmg h.W. Hazy weather oblcurcd the dillant lands. At 6h. th(> Hind railed us, and wo innnediateJv c«ino loin 11 tathonis, rocky bottom ; a fnuili illand. oft" the north point of Nipon, bearing S. 40' W. one inile; Cape Nand)u, 8. 66' E; Point Elarne, N. K. ; extreme towards Matxn.ai, S. jy E: and ditto o( ^ipon, 8. 56' E. At 18 h. we got under way, pafling clofe to the ilhind, in four fathoms, to avoid the cur- rent, which run very ftrong, breaking in overfalls againil the wiiul. Moderate breezes and cloudv M leather. 7;' c n A p. V. »797- ■■ Light winds and liazy weather. Tlie north point of Nipon is a low Hat point, ami is lituated in the Jatitudc 41° 31' N. and 140^ 50' E. of Greenwich : from It the coalt takes a S. \V. dircdion. Cape Nand)u bears S. 70° E., from the north point ten or eleven leagues. Light airs and calms througliout the night; and hi the morning we found ihv, rurrent had drifted us to the tyth. :■!»' M .: !1 280 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK the North, when the call point (which makes ab- V--V-W ruptly to the fea) of Agodaddy harbour bore N. 12' E. 1797. , - /uguft. two or three leagues. Our foundings during the night varied from 42 to 24 fathoms : fand and ftoncs. Frefli breezes and fqually weather, with heavy rain, which entirely obfcured the land from our view. 30th. Light airs, with heavy rain, which fubf 'ing at 3h. we had cahn and clear weather ; ana our foundings were 15 fathoms, within two miles of the fliore : the entrance of Agodaddy bearing N. E. On the weft fide Ave remarked fevcral villages in the vallies formed by the rifmg grounds ; and towards the weft point of entrance the fhore was well wooded. A light air carried us towards fomc high broken land, and we were neccftitated to bring up near it in 56 fathoms, to avoid the current, when it bore S. 78° VV. three miles ; and a high falling point, on the coaft of Nipon, bore S. 22° W. *i I. We got under way with hazy and gloom} weather, keeping clofe in with JNIatzmai fliorc, Avhich prefented clayey cliffs, very elevated, and covered with a thick foliage I TO THE NORTH PACmc OCEAN. 281 i'oJijige of Woods. Many runs of water were pre- chap <-;i])itatctl from thcfe hills, which gave them a romantic appearance. At 21.' h. we pailbd an cxtenlivc village, with feveral junks at anchor olV it. Several boats put oft* from the Ihore to viftt us ; but having the advantage of a fme breexc, we did not wait for them. Tins village was iituated in a bny, the weft point of it being rocky. An illand opened with it in the dircdion of S. 85' W. ; and fooa after we oj>eucd the town of Matzniai : tiiis rocky point forming the eaft extreme of tlie buy. We alfo opened another ifland to the feaward. JNIatzniai bay is about four miles in extent: the two i)oints Ibrming it bear N. 70° W. and S. 70° E. from each other. At the weft extreme is a very fmall ifland, coniu'i^ed with the Ihore by a reef of rocks. A fmall ))uildingupon it Icrvcs as a look-out houfe in the day, and a li"hl-houfe bv night. Our foundings wero regular, with fix fathoms clofe in. A great many iunks Mcre hing along-fide of each other, moored dole to the fliore ; and on the beach were ll'veral building and repairing. At noon we oblirved in 4r2'J'N.; the points of the bay, E. .*)' X. to N. 6y W. ; centre of the town, N. N. W. two miles; >.'ip<)n extremes, S. lo" E. to S. 61" E, live leagues. o o 'I'he 1797- Augutl. |K { I mr J.' VI .'1 i82 «797- Auguit 3 1 It. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK The morning was fo haay we could fearcely diftinguiO» the coaft of Nipon. .♦! ^ ^ ' ;<.)ij Fiefli breezes and hazy weather. We failed clofc in along the (hore to the town of Matzmai : and be- fore we drew near we obferved feveral horfemcn, richly dreflfed, galloping into the town ; and it fliould fccm by their numbers, the whole of the inhabitants were collected to take notice of us. ' Near the centre of the town, at a landing place, was a body of troops in regular order, with their colours flying, as if they expec^ted us to land. ih Tlie town was of confiderablc magnitude, extending along the margin of the beach, and afcending gra- dually to fome diltance up tJ -* rifing grounds, inter (perfed with trees and gardens. The houfes M'ere of wood, with the fame kind of roofing, and univerfally covered with ftones. 1'lie fuperior dwellings were decorated with long pieces of coloured cloths, of various patterns, fpread length- ways, which had a very chearful effect ; the ground work being chiefly white. The temples or public edifices were equally adorned, and colours flying all i2 over TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 283 over the town, as if drefled for our amufement. Tlie CHAP. V. hills at the back rife to a good height, but were >— v^ deftitute of wood, and uncultivated, excepting fome Auguft. [)aits that were laid out in gardens. The eaftcrly wind brought in a number of junks and boats : they all kept dole in fliore to avoid the cur- rent, which appeared to run to thu wellward very Itrong in the offing. At3h. we Hood to the fouth- ward. After running ten miles the N. W. point of Nipon bore S. 34' E. three leagues, and extejidcd u}) the Straits to Eaft ; but we could not difcern more th.'ui four leagues in that quarter for the haze. The extreme of Nipon, which the Japanefe call SangaroOi' projects from fome bokl high rocky land, and niakei in hummocks at adiftance ; the extrem being highefl, and falling abruptly to the fea. It bears S.S. E. from Matzmai about (ix leagues. In the evening, 7 h., the light-houfe bore of us N. 54° W. three miles, and we liad 65 fathoms, when the laud of Mati^mai took a N. N. W. diredion. In the morning, at day-light, we were within lour or five miles of the lliorc, without I'oundings. The S. W. extreme of Matziiiai, S. 36' E. ; land of Nipon, juli open ; extreme oflnfoo, North; an illand, N. N. ^W ; another, S. 4' W. ; to the Weft m Ml m I o o (> of 'T-'f 284 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVFRY BOOK of it, a fmall rock: third iflaml, S. 70° W. TIk-Ic >— ^^-' two illands arc high, but of no extent. St'ptenibcf '*^' Soon after 1 h. the wind flul'tcd to the raflsv.ud, and blew a ftrong breeze, witli dark clo'.uly weathei . The coall of Infoo formed a bay from tlic land, and wc were a-breall of it at noon, extending to the North feveral miles ; but the haze over the fliore prevented our obferving any thing difiin<5lly. The land was in general high, and bare of wood towards the fca. We paiTed between the ifland, which at noon boro N. N. W., and the north point of the bay, having a clear palVage thrc*; or four leagues wide. The illand was low at each extreme, and tolerably elevated : its greateft extent two or three leagues, in a N. E. and S.W. diredion. At 7 h. it bore from S. 50° W. to N. 67° W.; north point of the bay, N. 15" E. three leagues. The night was fqually, with threatening Aveather; and at midnight avc brought to till day- light, when the extremes of Infoo extended from N.48'E. to S. 18° E. : the coali receding very con- fiderably to the eaftward. The ifland bore from S. 8° W. ; neareft land of Infoo, four or five miles. We rl I ' TO niK NORTH PACinc OCEAN. ^^^^ Wc made faillollK) N. K., but tl.e fo.vnooh uas chap. varial>lc and ralni at times : at Jaft it fixed in the v-^~ callcrn quarter. 1797. September. A junk accompanied us, continuinir the fame courfe along this coa(K At noon the north point of the bay we paired yerteiday bore South ; ant! the extreme N. 520 E. : nearell land, S. 10° E. two or threJ leagues ; the idand, jua m fight, S. 50^ \V. Cur- rent 22 miles North. Strong breezes and very fqually weather; and the gloominefs of the atniofphere prevented our difiin- guilliing the coail very accurately. The country ap- peared highly diverfified by hills and valiies ; but no openings promifmg ilielter that we could difccrn till 4 P. M. At 7 h. we were witfiin two leagues of the land, fetat noon N. 52°E., which makes iiigh, de- fcoading gradually to a low point near the fca, off which is a fmall illand and a rock above water. From the point the land of Infoo takes the diicc^ion of N. 60* E. »r 2(i. I? w At 8 h. the noon point bore S. E. two leagues ; and it became calm. At 9 h. the wind frelhened up from the callward, with gloomy weather, which in the furciiooa 1^ il^ \f\ t ii I 'it. 4 236 A VOYACE OF DISCOVERY BOOK forenoon increafed to a frefli gale, with heavy rain *— *^*-' from the N. E. quarter ; and we flood to the N. W., September- having no figlit of the land. By tlie Japanefe chart, in the bay we croifed in the afternoon is a river of fome extent ; and at 4 h. an opening round a high point, S. o° E. ; and at 6 h. it bore S. 30° E., but fo indiftin6ily we could not afcer- tain whether we were right in our conjr(^ures. The wind blowing flrong from tlie land, prevented our approach to the fliore to j)rove any thing with cer- tainty. r ^j. 4th. Strong breezes and cloudy weather : extremely hazy round the horizon, and a large fwell from -the North. iMore moderate. Tacked finj). 10 h. Halfpaft, tacked. 20 h. Swell much abated. 24 h. Frefli breezes and hazy weather. Moderate breezes and very cloudy weathei*. 3 h. Tacked fliij). 11 h. Dark cJoudy weather, Avith rain. 15 h. Hove to an 1 l.anded. At uoon Peaked Ifland, N. 8" E fix leagues. Two i:' . V TO THE NORTH PACIHC OCEAN. 287 Tm-o flat ifland,, S. WE. to S. 87}' E. two ditto. chap. ' V. Extremes of Infoo, from S. E. to N. 60' E. about sc'SL leven leagues. September. We faMT an idand to the eaftward ; and foon after anotl,er. ,vith a high peak in the centre, bearing N vl: t'^"^ ^- ''" '■'"' '^^ """' ^^ of I-foo from iiialt to S. E. . m We fleered for the north extreme of Infoo, paffing to the Weft of two low flat iflands that bore a barren appearance, and were uninhabited. The main land contmued high and irregular, gradually deereafing to- wards the extreme, which appeared low and well wooded. At 7h. the wind died away, and it was calm till 111,.; the extremes of Infoo then bearing from N. 37- E. to S. 14' E., diftant four leagues from the neareft parts. Flat iflands, S. 12o W. and S. 34" \V. Peaked Ifland, N. 15° W. Towards nriidnight the wind came from the Eaft, and we flood to the northward. At day-light the extreme. jth. \i^ I m 111 li!* II: H **m A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK extreme, North of Infoo, N. E. ; and wc made fad '-"^-•^ to get up with Peaked Ilhuid ; but the wind vecrint; September, to E. N. E., WC werc uiiublc k) weather it : and at 22 h. \> chore awav to tlie Weft, rano;inij the illand at ]| miles diiiant, in 4.') fathoms, rocky l>ottom. "\Vc foon after opened anothtT iiland, hearing N. .'30* W., two leagues from the S. W. point of IVaked Ifle. At noon wc had very picafant wcitlRM*. 'riic e\tremrs of IVaked Ifland extended from X. 10° i:. to S. ()|)" E.; the Peak, N. GT E., two miles the neartll i)art ; the other ifland, N. 2" to 20*' W. ; extremes of Infoo, S. 3V E. The north part mc could not fee, being Ihut in with the Peak, from which it bears north- eallcrlv. I" J i' m /)th. Soon after noon a canoe from Peaked Illand eamr; on l)oard. 'riiefe peo[)le were in every ref]>e<^t the fame with thole of Volcano bay. 'I'liey called the Peaked Ifle, 'limo-fhee ; and the other, Tee-lbee. Timo-fljee is of an irregular figure, fix or feven leagues in eireumferenee, rifing gradually from its bafe to an uncommon high peaked hill, prefenting evidently a volcanic crater. IVnealh it the mountain was much broken into cragged points, and to appearance rocky half way down, I'orming drains or f.lfures, which ex- hibited various coloured earths, cinders, ]>umije IIcmjcs, and * ' TO TUT. NOR'III PACIFIC OCKAN. (K }<> ••*>a liilhlimv.us mattor. Tlu- flion- of ihc illand was c H A r iKiitcd Willi rocks; hut wcI! cIoiIuhI wiih wooil, even • ^ — liall" uav up tlic inounlaii]. ^. '-'-^v Siptcnibcr. 'J'lic woods uorc divcrfilicd wilh pine iircs ; and the vcrdiiio oil tho land <;a\c it an a^vcahlc pKHjuVt lioiM ilic l(-a, tlio l)aiv parts of liie mountain bcinn "vncrallv ohlcurcd by ihc clouds. As uo opened tlie pafliioe betnccn the illands v.( oblerved Ibinc l.oulc's, to u liicli our vilitors returned : JMid we Hood over for the other ilhind, but cahns (hiring tlu>. nioht prevented our aj)proaehing it; and in the nioiiiing wc had ]iea\ y rains, witli a rtroni:^ wind Ironi the X. E. (luarter. At ncjon 'J'ee-fhce bore iVoni N. ():3' E. to S. 7b' E. ; and Tiiuo-Hiee, S. 5.") E. three leaii;ues. Taeked, in hopes of weathering the ilhind o( 'JVe- Ihce, whieii at 7 h. bore n<.ni S*. .50° E. to Eait. It extends about four leagues in u N. by E. and S. by \V. direc'-tion, very moderate in elevation wheii eoinparetl wiih 'rinio-lhee. It riles abruptly lioin theJl-a in loeKy elitls. The nortlun-ii part is \o-\v and vervroekv. On tile Ibuth part we faw (bine liabitations. The pairai;e (hviding tlieCe illands is to appearance free r )' lV(»iu 7th. tl li I ^ ■>. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ^■28 |2.5 " 111 Its us •* mil 2.2 urn 1.25 11.4 1.6 « 6" ► vl >^. '/ ^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. r.580 (716) 872-4503 ^ '^'^ ■"X 1 6^ :^:il I i, \ :i ■^?i f ; ?■■!;. ^ I : " ' 'i :'! ■ '(*■'■' 4. ■ . in 590 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK from all daniior, runirmi]; in a N. E. and S. W. line of II. ' — ' — ' direction. At niidnioht the iiland bore to tiie South September, ol" US :iboiit two leagues. Soon alter, the v.ind failed us; and wc hatl light airs from the ealhvard, wliieli prevented our approach to Infoo. A\'e therefore taeked and flood to the North : antl at ■) A. ^l. we faw an illand bearing N. by E. ; and the north extreme of Infoo, S. 72" E. feven or eight leagues. At noon the wind inereafed, with cloudy weatluM- : Tinio-ihec Peak, S. 8° E. twelve leagues ; 'J'u-lhce, S. 2' to 12° W. ; the north extreme of the illand of Infoo, jull vifdjlc, S. 50' E. ; and in tlie diredion of N. 6"0' E. we jull: difcerncd more land : illand to the North, N. 13° E. 1 make the latitude of the N. W. point of Infoo 4o°2o'N., and the longitude 141° 27' E.; leaving be- tween it and the difcovered land an extenlivc llrait, which the wind prevented our entering. To the SoutJi of what is fuppofed to be the N. \Y. point of Infoo, between 4j^ 1j N. and 4.5° N., wc could not diftinguilli the coaft. It is therefore pro- bable this may be only an illand ; and the Japanefe chart feems to confirm it. The wind jircvented nic clearing up this point. Thcfe remarks are lincc our being to the North. At M "W'e laved to till Jiiy-linht. 'A 4 10 THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. O 'JO I .At half pall, the new land fct at noon extended char iVoni N. 08" K. to S. 8.5° E. : centre of North Ulaiui, — J-- X. 20MV. : Tinio-dice, S. 8MV. ; Tu-lhee, S. '2if W. seScv about twelve lea<>ues. -nh. Moderate weatlier throudiout Ihe nioht. I i;s Made fail ; the extremes bcaiijig from N. t'O' E. lo S. (ifr E. fix leagues. ; North liland, N. W. fom- leagues. By noon we were within three miles of the land, when it extended iVoni X. 2.5° E. to 8. '20° E. eight or ten leagues, the fouth extreme ; the illand, S. 0"4" W. to S. ?0^ W. iix or feven leagues. Vcrv pleafant weather, and a fteady wind. As the Ja- panefe, in their chart, make an extenfivc illaiu} to tlic North of Infuo, I conjectured this to be the fame land. The fouthern part of it is rallier high, but in aeneral very moderate in elevation. I j)!ace the fouth part in 4CJ^ N. latitude, and 141' 0?' E. longitude. The illand laying oil' this part of the coaft was high and woody, but of no extent. Jt lays iu the latitude of 4(r 17' \., five or {w leagues, iu the diredion of S. .50' \\ . from A'illage Point, wl.ieii bore \. 'Jj' E. f I' 2 U(',u\ ^l ' *»;■ liji Hi: m ! 1 " Iff m ■! ; r It I \m m i^.i 2t)'2 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY P. OOK iVoin us at noon. As the uind prevented our pailnior II. ... ' o « — — . to the eailward ol' this coall, aiul examining the llraits, Stptenibw. ^viiieh 1 I'uppofe to divide it iVoni Infoo, we were obliged to range it on the weilern lide ; and at noon continued our courle to the north-eaftward, lor that ])nrj>ore. !jt'i' At half j)ail (ih. thv' extremes of hmd l)oi"e from S. ].>° ]]. to N. 15^' E. ; a round hill, X. .'3(1' E. ; and the illand, S. .')'J° ^^ ., oil" lliore lour or live miles. Cloudy weather. i I At half j)ait 17 h. taeked. The land bore from N. 'J()' E. to 8. 2°E. Taeked again. Round Hill, 8. 45" E., lour or five miles off Ihore. Light airs and calms. Round Hill, S. 28° E. : the extremes preferred the fame beaiing ; antl we were two or three miles olV Ihore. Soon after noon wc palfed the north extreme : to the South of it were leveral feattercd houfes. 'J'he land tended to the northward, bold and clilfy, of moderate elevation, i'wclling into riling grounds, well clothed Avith wood and verdure. The coaft was llraight and unifotin in l! .;} TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. inappeamnco,aii(l notliiiiir remarkable hut ihr I[oun. IJilJ. Frelli breezes from the laiul ; and we Hood to the North, as the wind permitted. At () li. the extremes, North, nialxing low land, bore N. 40° K. ; and the Hound IJill, making the ibuth extreme, N.L'C^ £., three or four hvigues ofl'lliore. The night was fqually, and we began to feel tl-..- weather ver^- eold. The land extended from N. 15° E. to S. 1.5' E.; and a confpieuous high mountain bore N. 3?" E., four or fjve leagues IVom the land a-breaft of us, whieh a()peared very low; and in fome parts Ave could not difcern any land. ^Ve hauled up in thorc till we perceived the coait connccled by low land, well wooded ; nor could we obferve any openinos what- ever. At CO h. we ftecred to pafs without the low extreme, north point, which at noon bore N. '2ir E. three or four leagues ; the other extremes, S. ,5.)° E. ; i)ut the more diftant land was obfcured by the haze, 'i'he njountain bore N. 5V E. The coafl we pafled in 2.93 C M y\ P. V. '797- Si'ptcmber icth. i' I I Ml <. ft .■, ' ' !■ ' (J :'< ''. 1'. ' 'I i .1 i " n f i'i * J i I Ml d 294 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK in ihc night was nioiv iiulontcd tlinn iifual, but did > .J ^^ not proniitb any Ihcl'icr. '797- nth. Ai 2 h. wo pailcd the low point, making the c<\- trcnne at noon. Jt is the only part wc have yet fccn niakinp a j)oint. It projrcls ont with a gradnal dclccnt from tiie high land, terminating very low. It is iitn- atcd in the latitude ol' 48^ 4()' N., and longitude 141» At 7 h. we hauled oil" lor the night : and at mid- njoht we had itrong bree/es and hazy leather, when >ve wore and brought to the wind till day-light, our lituation being the lame as lail night : the ex- tremes bearing S. 5' E. to N. E. At 20 h. a lligar- loaf hill, S. 84' l\. The eoail Itill pi'^fervcd a northerly direction ; but our view was mueh limited by the haze. At noon the Sugar-loaf, making the extreme, South ; north extrc-me, N. 9" E., two or three miles off Ihorc. Squally and dark gloomy weatlier. The higii round mountain to the S. E. of the low point, xshieh we jyafTed in the afternoon, makes this 7 part I, I TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 295 pari ealily known. To the fouthvvard of it the huul chap. IS of moderate elevation .; but to the northward, re- ^— •.— ^ niarkably high, and rifmg abruptly iVoni the feu. September. Inland, the mountains were Hill more elevated • many of them elothed with wood up to th(>ir fumniits. The fliore continued bold, and prefented no dangers to obftrucl our navigation. A\'e could not difeern any oj)enings, or the linallell appearance of the coalt being inhabited. I could not reconcile the extent of this land with the ifland North of Inlbo, in the Japanefc chart ; neither did it continue the fame eaflerly direction : hov/ever, to clear up the matter, we had only to continue our courfe, keeping well in with the land. The land to the Welt we could only conclude to be the coaft of Tartary ; but the extent of the land we had now traced up for 4| of latitude we could not all comprehend. Nor had we any books or charts to clear up our doubts, except Cook's third voyao-e, which only tended to confufe us : I mean in thofe extracts relating to the voyage of the Caflricom and Brelkes, wliere he fu[)pofes the former fell in with the eaftern coaft of Tartary, when De Vries imagined they were exploring tl.ve lai.d of Jefo up to 49^ N. Our :i 1:1 ill. m ':[)() A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY r I * ,1 BOOK Our d(Mil)ts wvvc uow r/.irtlv cleared no ni noon ; II. , ' ; ' <,,^^,-^ and Ave Ix^otin to riilnct'-i, iVoin llic iippearanre of September. ^^^^' l'>^\' !'>'ids, and ouf decreaiinci; rDundiin.:^ {\\\[\\ our northern latitude), that \\c wvvc not iikeiy to o-ct to lea, iVoni our prcfeut iituation. without returning to the South. iiO.i. The extremes Ironi N. ;3(f E. to S. K., two leaQ;ues otV lliore. I'he hind VLM'y.high aiid uneven. At half pall ph. mc hauled otV lor the night, having dark gloomy weather and heavy rain ; and at f) h. wo brought to under low fail. ,1 I \'urial)le Mcather, with lii>ht airs and calms. At half pall 1? h. the land extended from N. 22° E. to 8. 18^ Yj. five or fix leagues ; and at the fame time, we law more land bearing N. 78" W., juil vilible from the deck. I conceived this land to be the coall of Tartary. The forenoon was calm and clear weather, which enabled us, for the llrll time this moon, to obferve dillanccs. The land to the Weft prefervcd much the fame ajipearancc ; the north ex- treme, terminating low towards the fea, bore ^ •^i. ' TO THE NORTH PACIHC OCEAN. N. 2A' E., five or fix leagues diftant. At noon the foiith extreme, S. W E. ; and a vvvy remarkable peaked hill near the fea, S. 64° E. ; a break in the land, S. 40" E. ; the coaft ofTartary, from N. 7V W. to S. 80" W. about 12 or 15 leagues. No current hare we yet experienced. • CHAP. V. '797- Auguft, 'm t d K 1 1 ( . ■ ■ ''11 m "ii d I- i; ? > 1 i 1. ^ ' < 1 \ : I L .t 598 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 1797- September 13th. CHAP. VI. Impraaicobility of getting to Sea by the Northivard.'-Detemina- tion of returning,— Remarkable Hazinefs of the Atmofpbere. Calm, and fair weather. 4 h. Light breezes. Extremes of Tartary, from N. 55° W. to S. 80° W. ; and the point which terminated the land to the north- ward at noon, N. 35° E. ; fouth extreme, S. 16° E. Fine moon-light. As we fuppofed we were at the extent of the eallern land, we hauled our wind till day-light ; for we ftill imagined it to be an idand. We faw the peaked hill bearing S. 27° E- : and the eaflern coaft ftill extended to the North, our diftance from it three or four leagues. In the morning the wind increafed to a ftrong breeze, with fqually weather. As. 1- '299 VI. «797- TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCK AN. As we run to the North the couft became grachuill y lower, always terminating in low points ; and the in- ^ tenor land was bare of wood. We faw no double s-nV , land, whieh gave us reafon to in.agine we were near ' Its extremity : and indeed the extent of this land was much greater than wc could fuppofe the Japanefe ifland to be, as laid down in their chart. Our fo-md- ings gradually decreafed to 11 fathoms; and we hauled over for the weftern land. At noon a low fandy point bore N. l jo £. . the extreme of the coaft of Tartary, N. 30° W. ; a round hill, Weft ; and the extreme, W. S. W. Our dillance from the eaft fliore two or three leagues. 9 tie ill d. he ce he lly A& I Frefli breezes and very fqually. In ftanding to- wards the weftern land we had regular foundings, which uecreafed as we approached it : and the wind veering to the Weft, we came to an anchor in nine fathoms, four leagues from the land ; the round hill bearing S. 64° W., making the extreme to the Weft. Extreme of the eaftern ftiore, S. 23' E. Sea open between North and N. 30" E. ; the points being very low land. In the night the wind moderated. Q Q 2 We 14th. l!ii ■ M: 1:1 PffP" if' i 300 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY |i!'' BOOK AVc got under way at day-light and ftood to tlu '-^.— ' North, decroafing our water to three i'athoms, when vScptcmlier. ^ve tacked, and foon after came to in four i'athoms, hard fand. Tlie round hill, S. 08^ AV. ; a conic hill, N. 50° W. From N. 15° E. to N. 53" £. we law no land ; but from thence a continuation of very low land, jull appearing above the water. Extreme of weft land, S. 48" W. ; eaft extreme, S. 30° E. ; Mcareft land, W. 10* S. about three miles. The Ihorc a-breaft of us rofe abruptly from the fea, rocky and barren. The top of the cliffs were partially wooded, as was the conic hill, which made it confpicuous. The morning was moderate and very pleafant weather : and the moment we and ored, the mafter was difpatched with the boat to examine the coaft about the conic hill, which feemed likely to afford fomc flielter for the veflel. By obfervations for the longitude taken on the 11th, 12th, and 14th of September, and reduced by the T^^atch to the anchorage, being the mean of 27 fets of lunar diftances by myfelf, Mr. Chapman, &c. will flipw, - - 0 and D • and D, 141° 14' 17" E. The I'.ft.mces were Eaft and Weft of ^ By watch, - 141° 47' 20" tlie moon, by the fun and ftars, 5 Do. by Macao rate, 141° 1' 5" The W ! r ''1 "> TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. joi The nniller returned at dark, and reported Lis chap. Iianug roued round the point wliich bore N. 10^ E., ^L^ Avhen lie entered a Iniy whieli took a weilcrly direction' q 7^7- «♦ *i 1 I /. , '^vvuMi September. at the back ot tlic come hill, abont three.' or four miles deep. Jn tlie entrance they had five fathoms, but the wind blowing llrong they did ::ot examine to the head ; and it was entirely open to the eallward. The fouth point, and indeed the whole of the land which formed the bay, was compofed of white and reddilh coloured rocks, fo fteep as to prevent their Janding. I'hc head of the bay was low, and whole appearance CAt-emely barren, only prelenting a few foxtail pine- trees of a fmall growth upon the hills, and no figns whatever of any habitations; neither could they obferve any rife and fall by the iliore. In going in after paffing a bank of three fathoms, they had deepened their water from four to eight fathoms, and the mailer conceived the pallage to the Noith was pretty evident. I cannot fay 1 was of the fame opinion, but to clear up all doubts we got under way at daylight, and after making a tack we flood to the North. At noon the fouth point of the bay bore N. 6° W. fix or feveu miles, and the conic hill N. i\'. W. Our foundings for the lalt hour wore only tji and S fathoms. The whid was moderate, and we had fine fmooth water. Our rM' '. i i- t" m !. t ' H 302 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Our Ibundings IHII dccreafing to lefs than two BOOK ^— ^-— ' fathoms, when it became expedient to tack. At this 1 707" September. ^'"^^* ^^^ plainly difccmcd very low land extending; loth. yygj. jjjg >^ £ pjjj,j. Q^ ^vhat the mailer had conceived might be a paflTage leading to the fea : the neareft part bore from us N. E. by E. throe or four miles, and from thence to North within the fouth point of Chapman's Bay (fo nameil from the malkM') was a continuation of fand banks partly dry, with fome of them juft appearing by riplings upon the furface. AVe were now fully convinced there was no opening to fea in this direction, the whole being doled by low land, which we could plainly diilinguifli at hitervals ; behind the low land at a confiderable diftance we obfcrved fome high land in a N. E. direction. If any river empties itfelf into this bay, I fliould fuppofe it very inconfidcrable, as we had no appearance of any tide, nor any figns to lead us to fufpedl there were any rivers on the coaft. As the mafter had reprefentcd the bay unfavourable, even fuppofing we could get there, which I deemed from the lliallow water leading to it imprad-.licable, without great rilk of the velfel ; and there being no profpe^l of any inhabitants to get in- formation of, refpei^iing the country, induced me to lofe no more time, as the equinoxes were approaching, but proceed to the fouthward, down the gulph we were TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. were at prefent fo totally embajcd in, before tlie bad weather could materially afiba us. We kept our wind ; and at half paft 2 h. we were m our old anchorage, having run fix miles, and i^ra- dually increafed our water from two to four fathonl We tacked within two or three leagues of the (liore. The land in this part was indented, and a fmall rocky ifland lay off it. The wind veering to Eaft, we hauled off to increafe our diftance from the land. The night was very fqually, and we had a great deal of lightning and rain ; and fortunately for us, as the gale increafed, it came more northerly. At 14 h. we brought to the wind till day-light, when we bore up with a frefli gale and continual rain. The eaflern land was feen till near noon, when we loft fight of the peaked hill, bearing Eaft ; and then difcovered the weftern coal^ extending at noon from 60° W. to N. 80° W. three or four leagues. Hard fandy bottom : and purfuing our courfe to the fouthward, we increafed to 15 fathoms at 6 h. 30 m., when the conic hill bore N. 8° E. ; and the round hill, S. 70° W., three or four leagues off fhore. The night was moderate. A calm in the morning 8 brought 303 CHAP. VI. 1797. September. 1 7th. 1: !, IM- ' m y. n m m l.l! Ifl' I: 304 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 1 ■ I \ i 4 i I BOOK brought the wind from the foiithward. At 18 h. we »— ^^^ — had 25 fathoms muddy bottom, tlie Round Hill September, bearing N. 72° W. From the hill the land projeds to the Eaft, and prefents a range of fteep, rocky cliffs. To the north and fouth of it the land is level and uniform, and much indented, but we faw no appear- ance of any openings. At noon the Eaft coaft ex- tended from N. 86' E. to S. 40° E. 10 or 12 leagues. Land about our anchorage to the N. N. 6" E. Round Hill N. 53° W. South extreme of weft coaft S. 29° E. three or four leagues. 27 fathoms clayey bottom. ,8^1^, Strong gales and very hazy weather, with a large fea. I i' '^! At 1 h, we brought to under a low fail, as we could not fee any thing of the land. At 5 h. it cleared away, and the land extended from North to S. W. by S. four or five leagues. Soon after we bore up and fteered for it till dark, when it was diftant two leagues; and we brought to: the wind was more moderate, and gradually abated towards midnight, when it again fprung up from the eaftv/ard, and we made fail to clear the laud. At 17 h. 30 m. the land was ken from ,1 I TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 305 tZ^, '" '•.''•= "^"'^'^P^'-'' ''^'' '™'-S-, CHAP. iugli and rugged. * vj Ihe ,vmd u.c,eafed to a freft gale in the morning, with kjually, cold, and unpleafant weather. At time, we could diftingnifl, high land on the eaftera fliore but very nnperfeaiy. At 22 h. the obfcurity of the weathe..- induced us to bring to; and at 23 h., it clearnig away, we again (leered to the South. At noon we had frefl, gales, with ha.y threatening weather, and heavy fl.owers of rain. I'he land was juft dif- eernibleto the W.S.W., four or five leagues diilant. oonie albatrofles were feen.. The wind having increafed to a hard gale, with very heavy fqualls and a large fea, we lajed to under a low fail. At5h. M-efaw the land through the haze, from North to S. W. by S.; and the weather being more moderate we bore away, fleering acourfe parallel With t]>e coaft. At 6 h. the fouth extreme bore S. 48° W. ; high land a-breaft of us, Weft, about five or fix leagues. At 8h. we brought to. The gale after funfet, fubfided ; and at 16 h. it was calm, witli a good deal of fwcll, and fine clear weather. a ^797- September. R n At: ipth. M ill 1 i ■^i 5 ^ if ll I: ; r ■ IN l!j If S06 Septenibtr A VOYAGE OF DISCO\'ERY At 17 h. the extremes, being the fame feeii lafl evening, extended from N. 5° W. to S. 56° W. four or five leagues. AVe alfo perceived the liigh mountain on tlie call coaft. Light breezes, and very pleafant evening. At noon the weft coaft, from N. 42' W. to S. 64° W. ; and the mountain on the oppofite, N. 8'J' E. 14 leagues. Aired the fchooner witli fires. ■ , r iotli. At 1 h. having remarked the eaftern coaft fufti- ciently, with wliich view we had before tacked ir the morning: to make it diftind;ly, we now ftood for the weftern coaft. At C h. the fouth extreme bore S. 68° "VV., terminating in a hill of a conic lliape ; nortli ex- treme, N. 28" W. four or five leagues. The land a-breaft of us prefented much the fame inhofpitablc afpedl we had obferved up the gulph to the North. ?-' \l I • I: I r •n i i ' In the night we had a fwell from the S. E. quarter, with dark, gloomy, threatening weather; and in: the morning we had an increaie of wind, with fomc rain. Tacked at I6 h. At 17 h., the wind veering to the Eaft, we bore away ; the high mountain on the eait coaft bearing from us dud Eaft. At 20 h. the weft fide Mi 307 CHAP. VI. TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. fide of tlie land bore N. W. : and the wind veering more northerly, brought wUh it fVefli gales and rainy weather, which entirely oofeured the land ; and we SepVembcr. had every profped of an approaching gale of wind. AVe reduced our fail accordingly, and increafed our diftancc from the fuppofed diree^lion of the weft coaft, which we had only feen imperfcdly in the morning. We had no foundings thefe 24 hours. 1 ! Kill till Strong gales, with heavy rain and frequent fqualls. Judging we were fufficiciitly clear of the Jand, 1 thought it moft prudent to bring to, with our heads to ealtward. At fujifet it blew a very fevere gale, with conftant rain ; and Ave remained laying to under a clofe-reefed mainliiil, with a very heavy fea. Every hour, during the night, feemed to add force to the wind, which blew with uncommon violence ; and the weather was dark and gloomy to a degree, fo much fo that we could not fee beyond the veffel. We had only to hope the land continued a fouth-wellerly direc^ tion, as we could not carry any fail to cfcape it, fliould it for us unfortunately tend to the South of S. S. W. Our little veflel made very good weather ^ for though the fpray of the fea blew conftantly over us, Ave did not fliip any quantity of water. At 14 h. we were very happy to find the gale abating ; and by BUS 16 L. 2i{h 11 4 mm i ti^ii V ih ■ ■ 'li i'.l 1 l! .lt!''"'.i I J ■ I ' jt ' '• 308 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVtRY BOOK 16 h. we were enabled to cany fome fails: the wind ' — '-^ alio veered to S-. S. E., and we had a confufed broken 1797- ^ September, lea. . At day-light we faw the land from the North to "W. 5" S. about five leagues. In the morning the wind fhiftcd to S. S. AV., and we had very fevcre fqualls, whieh fplit mod of our fails. It foon after became calm ; and we were left to the merry of a moft irregular fea, breaking in every diredlion. The weather obfcured the land ; and at noon wc had light breezes from the N. E. quarter. aztl. Variable and threatening weather, with fliowers of rain, and the fame confufed fwell. Having fplit all our fails, except the fore-topfails, in the gale, we were bufdy employed repairing with the remaining fuit. The haze prevented our feeing the land ; and at 10 h. the wind veering to the S. W., we flood off the remainder of the night. Variable winds, which at laft fettled in the N. W. quarter, and blew a fredi breeze. At 17 h. 30 m. the land extended from N. W. to S. 80° W. ; and at 20 h. we faw it bearing S. W. by W. To the North it was hi^h and broken, with bare rocky projections : the mora I. >'i u i TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. move level parts of the coaft were of a brou-nifli a,p. chap J)earancc, and covered with pine trees. At noon we J^ had light airs and fine weather. The eoaft extended . ^797- from N. 10° W. to S. 6.5MV. about five leagues. To ' the N.W. there appeared a fmall opening; or per- haj)s, the land being indented, it might be a bay whieh onr dillanee prevented there being any certainty of ; and it was diredly to windward. Wc had no foundings. Ligh^ breezes and cloudy, with a fouthern fwell We lleered in the diredion of the coaft ; but the haze prevented our diftinguift.ing any thing particular in the land, from which we were diftant four or five leagues. At 6h. the fouth extreme, making a high hill, bore S. 70° W. fix or eight leagues ; and we liaulcd more off the land. The night was fqually and rainy, with a great deal of lightning, which brought the wind to the fouthward. At 14 h. ^ve ftood to the eaftward. Heavy fqualls of wind, and a large fwell, fplit the jib. By noon we had clear weather, which gave us a diftind view of the land, extending from Weft to N. 35" W., diftant 10 or 12 leagues. Light 23d. Iff u\ m J' i"; III It m\. I i :■■ i 1 !l . : ii ^^^ ti ,1 1 ' i I'i1 1 . i 1 1 ! M, \ '^ i; ■ f ! ^1 ' 1 t ; 1 ¥ 'I i 310 BOOK II. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Light winds from the land. ScpLmber Squally weather. We kept clofe to the wind, 24tl^ expedting to get well in with the land in the morn- ing- rrefli breezes and clear weather. Towards noon the wind veered to N. AV., and we were unable to ap- proach the land within five leagues. It made high • in i)arts ; and the fides of the hills were perfcdly bare, and deftitute of any verdure. The extremes at noon, from N. 14° W. to S. 80° W. ; Round Hill, fet ycfterday noon, N. So" W. We were this day to the fouthward of the eaftern point, which forms the entrance of the gulph, in the latitude of 46° 0' North ; and in which parallel of latitude it is about 60 leagues acrofs, and runs up North and South 120 leagues. I named it the Gulph of Tartary. It is poffible there may be fome openings that have efcaped cmv notice in Inch an extent ; and if any, probably on the weftern fide, which the bad weather prevented our making (oo free with on fome days ; and when fair, the wind was contrary. Ex- cepting on the eaft point we fiiw no habitations what- ever ; nor had we any reafon to fuppofe the fea coaft was 311 CHAP. VI. TO 'lllE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. was iiiliabited. In general I have found in all conn- tries, wherever they arc in abitetl, partieularly in re- mote ones, the fmoke of fires is always vilible. and September, luiiverlally made whenever llrange veffels appear, as fignals of alann, or to awaken their curiofity ; and I think it nioft likely no veffel ever appeared in thefe feas belbie, to excite their admiration. The feafon being too far advanced to permit our pafllng through the ftraits which divide tlie land of Irifbo from Tartaiy, and proceeding up to Sakuleen Ifland, agreeable to my firft uitentions, and from tiience more fully examining the Kurile Iflands, and afterwards to continue exploring the Corean coaft to the Yellow Sea. This plan being rendered abortive by the unfortunate lofs of his Majefty's fliip Provi- dence, and the want of provifions in the fchooner, induced me to prefer the continuation of the coaft of Corea, as the moft eligible. For even on the fup- pofition of fucceeding in my refearches to the North, I had every reafon to be alfured the wefterly winds would prevent my repaifing the ftraits of Infoo, and of courfe the Corean coaft would be left unex- amined. I therefore continued our courfe to the fouthward. I besian 1." I' 'f;ft ill .1 1 313 U 'i 11. I* ' BOOK 11. 179 i'l A VOYAGE OF DISCOVE'^Y 1 began alfo to conceive Captain King was right in his conjcd'tuiTs concerning the Dutch ihips |ia\inq; September. t'"»'i<'^^ the eaflern fide of Tartary, from 4.5" North to 49° North, without knowing it to be fuch. 1 only regretted we had not with us Janfen's map of their difcoveries. It however appears very evident that the hind called Efo by the Dutch navigator, which I believe implies Efau, or tlie land of hairy men, and Xvluch the natives call Infoo, as well the Japanefe we faw as before explained, is an ifland of very con- fiderable magnitude, extending from 41° 24' North to the latitude of 45° or 45° 25' North, and from 140° 0' Eaft to 146° 22' Eaft, being 70 leagues, in the parallel of 44° 30' North, wide ; and which is not its greateft breadth. We faw nothing of the northern part ; but as we faw no land between 45° 25' North and 46' North, will leave an extenfive ilrait between it and the peninfula of the coaft of Tartary : or, ftiould tho land before mentioned, in 45° 25' North, prove to be an ifland, which I imagine to be the cafe, there will ftill be a clear channel remaining between it and the land of Infoo, as exhibited in the Japanefe chart, which accompanies this journal. It appears manifeftly the miftake of De Vries, in imagining the land he fell in with, in 45° North, to 6 be U 1 TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 3\r, hu the hind .,f Klb, Hiul which, aiToiclino to tl,c CliAP. weather, he inioht cahl v lulpeot ; as in the connection ^'.L. of lands we are IVeciuentl v deceived, and find openings ScpScr. and channels wh(>r(i none were expected. For in- ftance : in the llraits of JNIatzn.ai, where the illand ofJnloois divided irom Jai)an by a i)a(rage not five leagues wide ; and the north point of Jai)an is I'cMm miles Nortli of ]\Iat;^mai town, and ten miles North of the fi)uth point of Jnfoo, uhich, on entering the ih-aits Ironi the leftward, makes it aj)pear as if Uicrc was no palliige between them, the j)oi.its being fhiil in with each other. Tacked ajid ftood in for the hnul agaiiift a niofl zy.h. mipleafant head Iba. At o h. ^Om., the wind again coming to the Welt, we flood to the S. W. ; tlie laiui ^ at the tiinc extending from iS'. by M\ x \V to M' bv 8. fll II I m] ti > if, ; le nr'hi Frefii bree/es tliroiiolunit tl fnfed fea, that drove us bodily to Ir(nv;ir;l. continued llie iimic (iircclii wind and foa tog(nl)(M' pn^ent to it. 5 Wild a cfiii- >n and (Ijilanrc cu (Kir p.c I iic Ja; uc ilipi'oacli I / ,s s :\l i / \ 1 314 . A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK At noon the land extended from N. a.*/ W. to ^^^w N. 75°W. ; higU broken land, N.W. Ccvcu or eight Scp'Scr. l<^^«S"e«- a6th. Tacked and Hood for the land. Stood off for the night ; the land extending from N. 25°W. toS. 8()MV. 1 1 i. i" U \ •27th. Calm and hazy weather. Lioht airs : foon left us. Frcfli breezes and gloomy weather, with rain. We fleered for the outer extremity of the coaft, which at noon appeared extending from the North to N. 85° W.; an opening or bay, N. 66' W. f.x leagues. The north extreme was the high broken land. rrefli breezes and dark gloomy weather, and very fqually. We drew in with the land, which was almoil ob- (eured by the clouds; and at 6h. the fouth extreme, making in hummocks, bore S. 85' \V. ; between it and I, TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. ^i-; niul a hilly i)(,ini, hcimiv^ X. ar VV. Tl.o couli re- char ceded, juid Avas in tliaL j)iut very low ; hiii Hill Hu; ^iw uholc of the eoall appeared to us clolcjy connected, .s,iS,r. particularly the opening wc had reniark(>d at noon. The land was much hroken, forn.inM hills and rallies, very defolate to our view ; and we were lour or live leagues lioni the fliorc. At 11 h. nc hauled upon a wind under a low fail ; and at day-lii-ht we made fail : the land extendinn- from N. 5° E. to S. 79" M'. In llic mornino' we had very llrong breezes and fair weather; and we iic- quently palled (pianlitics of coarfj grafs. At noon the fouth extreme, forming a high hill I'rom which fome low land ])rojecl:ed, bore S. 84° E. five or lix leagues ; very high broken land, N. W. by W. four leagues ; the extreme to the northward, N. ."/ E. Since the hifl obfervation the current has let us S. 20' E. 26 miles. At half pall I li. the wind coinin<^ to tlie S. ^\ . j)ermitteil us to Hand in foi- the Inncl. At luiili'l Wv:* Avere clofe in, but we could g(>t no loiiiuliiins v.ilh 90 fathoms. M'c could not perceive the linallelt ap- pearance of any openings, nor any thing to lead us ^ « '-' to 2Sth. I f t- I I I I I ! ' ; 1; m ■ii ■ ■■] ii f , ' f'l ^ ^ 'v H i'U \ !.■-, .>,(; A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK to fuppofe the coaft being iiiluibited. T!ic luiul pre- v-J^^ fejitecl a rugged and roekv lliore, with a few trees Se 'ten-l'cr. Scattered upon the ridges of the hills. Thefe hills were of little elevation, near the fca, forming abruptly at unequal diftances ; but the interior land made very high. The extremes, when we tacked, bore from n^'n. E. to W. S. W. The night was moderate, and the wind being fteady from the S. W. and W. S. \V., ^vc unavoidably in- creafed our diilance from the eoaft, whieh was feen very indiftindly in the mo.ning to the N. AA . :9th. •1,1 fi\ t • ( \ . V ■!,: 1 f ■ 4 ^ ' H' [ i ■\ i f 1 \ ^cth. Frclli breezes and hazy weather. 9h. Tacked, and flood to the weftward. V2 h. :^[oderatc weather, with a heavy dew falling equal to luiall rain. 18 h. Light breezes and very hazy. ei h. Very eloudy weather. No light of land. Moderate bieezcs and very eloudy : the atmofi)hero eiitirelv obfeured. At half paft 4 h. we faw the land totheN.^V. 7 h. The extremes of land, from N. 10' W. to N. 8(r W., making in det;>ched hills. 'I'he fun fetting very elear gave us a dlftiiR^t slew of it, at feven or eiiilit li TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 317 eight leagues' dillancc. \Vc tucked for the night chap, at()h. 30 m. ^ ^-^i^ 12 h. Lio'Iit winds, witli pcntle llioweis. c ^j'^l' 18 h. Foggy weuther, which towards noon cleared away with the noi'therly wind ; but it Itiil remained very liazy. 22 h. Small land birds and feveral oulls fecn. 24 h. Frelli breezes. No land in fiiiht. m IVIoderate breezes and hazy weather. o h. Jiight breezes. 12 h. liight airs. 18 h. Calm weather. AVc diftinguilhed the land bearing N. by W. At20h. we had light airs from the fouthward, with mild weather, which peruiitted the performance of divine ferviee. At noon the land bore from N. 10° E. to N. 22' W. eight leagues. Lii^ht winds and very fmooth water carried us to- wards the land, which teniled to the weilward. Wc alio palled quantities of coarfe grafs. Oclobcr ill. :i1 m "':■.[ 'i'li The laud extended from N. 33° E. to X. 2:3^ W\ about lix leagues. The niglit was calm and cloudy. 12 h. Liglit airs. l^^h. Wl m Hfi l!! ■: i, i m ■; 1 ' !" i R' i:^'^- y'^' 'h i'* I"! S18 BOOR II. 1797- Odobcr. 3'1. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 18 h. Pleafant breezes from the call ward. The land, tVo'.n ^^ 42° E. to N. 35MV. Lo-.v land ap- peared near tlie lea, and very high mountains wf Jl wooiled at the back. We purfued our courfe in the direction of the Hiore, which at noon extended from N. 4:2" E. to N. by W. fix or feven leagues, and the appearance of more land to the N. W. ; but it was fo dark and hazy in that diredion, we could not well dittinguilh. The wind a fine breeze. - I^loderatc breezes and hazy. We ftill continued our courfe to the weft ward, in the direaion of the coaft, which was generally obfcured from our view by the haze over it. At 6 h. we could only fee a fmall part bearing N. N. E. fix or (even leagues ; and the wind veered to the North, with fipially and rainy weather. The atmofphere extremely gloomy. At 10 h. 30 m. hauled our wind, and hove to under a low fail. Wore (hip. 17 h. Made fail, with a ftrong wind and a con- fufed fea. In the morning we ftill pafled quantities of coarfe grafs, and were vifitcd by many land birds. Large 1 flocks TO THE NORTH P/>Cmc OCEAN. flocks of geefc ilcw over us from the N. W., going to chap. the fouthward. Ai jioon wc luul lirong bree;^es and Ji'i^ hazy weather: nc coi.!,l julc difcern the land to the nTJ' "XT \\r *i 1 ,• • . October. N. W., though very taiully. lly the oblbrvation, ue had been fet 24 miles to the South of account; and by the current we liad experienced, and the coarfe grafs we had feen, I imagine fonie river to empty itfelf into the fca in this part of the coafh The Itrong northerly wind prevented our courfe being more northerly, and of courfe approaching the land in the diredion I willied. SlO OA' m Light winds and fair weather, but uncommonly hazy to 15° above the horizon, which prevented our obfcrving any objeds diftindly upon the land. We lleered as the coaft inclined, till the wind came to the S. E., and afterwards to the S. W., which was immediately oppoiite to our courfe. The white rock fct at noon as we opened ; it made a clufter of difteient fizes : and at 6 h. the rocky head bore N. 3(f E. ; and the fouthcrn extreme, S. 7j° W. An opening, in the diredion of X. 15° W. : the fouth jioint, foimiug double land, was four or five leagues dillant. 4th iT '^ V "1 At m ^,1 ' 'A I '> I if- \'1 ■*'■'■' 1 ■ ! ■\ ' ■ , >■ i j : 5 ' 1 ; Vi' (P ^ I ': n 520 1797- Oaober. 5th. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY At funfet we ftill remarked very high mountainous land along the coaft. The night was clear, and pleafant weather ; but our wind carried us from the land, which at noon was fecn through the haze, 12 or 13 leagues diftant to the S. W. Frefli breezes and very hazy weather. Soon after noon we faw very high mountainous land to the well- ward. The extremes of the coaft extended from S. 30° W. to N. 10° E. In the angle formed by two high points, bearinints an cxtcnllve o'Su'r bay. At lunlet we tacked in the bav, tlie extrenies Vl^'' bearing fror)i South to N. 22° E. ; but we had no foundings with 50 fathoms. The lofty mountains n e had before remarked, feemed to terminate on the north fide of the bay, and in a A\'. N. W. direftion the coail fell back, leaving a fnuill bay within, which- moll probably a fiords good anchoiage from the ap- j)earance of the fliores. i The fouthern land rofe m hummocks to a tolerable elevation. The wind was moderate and fteady all night, in the morning it veered to the weflward. Lan • ; and we were five or fix miles from the land. The ,:oaft aff-orded a moft barren profpea, the lulls were much i I \ 1 1 H TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCl' AN. 32.5 much hiokcii into ridges, forminn: cliafms in their CiiAi». VII. Hoping fulcs towards the (oa : we law no appearance ^— — ^ of any openings. q^^^;^.^ AV^e ranocd the coafl at the fame diflance four or five miles ; wc obfervcd nothing to particuhu'ife, the kind alfording the fame uniform appearance of mode- rate height, and rather clifly near the fea. At fnnfet the extremes bore from S. 18° W. to N. i38° \Y., and we hauled our wind for the nidit. h\ the evenin"- the gale moderated, and durino- the ni^ht v.r had a great IWell, which in the morning had nearly fubfided. lOtll. The laud prcferved the fame bearings as lail evening, but the wind veering to th'3 W. S. W. towards noon, prevented our aj)proa(;hino- within two leagues. It extended at noon from S. U' \V. to N. W ^V. The fouth extreme making a low point. Still throughout the afternoon we were prefentcd witli the fame barren view, except the variation of a yellowiih earth mixed with the heath and coarfe grafs that covered the hills. At 5 h. 30 nj. the huid extended from S. 33° W. to X. 30= W., and the low point fet at noon as the fouth extreme bore S. 4.j^ W. I ith. t, 1 fi # ' I 3'26 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK S. 45° W\ To the North of this point is a (hep bay or ^- — -"-' opening Avhich tlic winds prevented our afccrtaining , oaober. it bore S. 61° W. fcven leagues. 'J'hc; wind remaineii fi>ied in the weftern quarter, blowing Ibong at times in fqualls. At 18 h. the land was fec^i from N. 65" W. to S. 65= W., and at noon faom N. 47° W. to S. 65" W. Some white cliffs welt fevcn or eight leagues. lath. The extremes of Corea from N. 4?° W. to N. 85" W. eight or ten leagues. Moderate breezes and clear weather^ the wincT veering to the N. W. quarter. ri.' li I Before day-light we faw the land to the S. W., which proved to be the ifland of Tzima, fituated be- tween Nipon and the Corean coaft. The coall of Corea, N. 33° W. to N. 50' W. nine leagues. The ifland Tziraa was feen from S. 44° W. to W. four or five leagues ; and a fmall high ifland, vifible only from the rigging, S. 24° E. ten or twelve leagues by eftima- tion. At half paft 21 h. we tacked clofe in with the ifland, the north point bearing N. 68° W. three or four miles. Some rocks are without this point. Early in the morning we perceived the ifland to be inha- bited, by their lighting fires in every part. This was a grateful. tf' TO THE N^Rra PACIFIC OCEAN. 307 a oiatcful iiglit, and what rvc had been Ion- unac- CHAP, ciilbmed to on the coall ^of Tartary. We ulfo llnv ^iL ibur Japanele junks Morking to the weftward, under oaoi/c'r the land. Tl.e iihuid was of moderate elevation, with ibinc high land in the centre of it. The vallies were cultivated, and woods were thinly fcaltered over tiie Iiills. The coall on the eaft fide was very rocky ; and the furf broke on the Ihorc with great violence. At noon jr. A VOYACi: OF DISCOVERY At 1 li. llu^ ivt'f bore S. .^Cj" VV. two miles; and wo. had uiuMjual I'ouiuliiig'^, ^villl a gteal lea in this litiia- tioi), oct.'alioncd by the ovcii'alls and liroiiii; current. After rnnnins; in the (lirtctii)ii of N. 41" ^^^ '2'2 miles I'roni 1 h., we were well over on the C'orean eoall : the extremes extend inu; from N. '20" E. to S. O'?*" W. ; an opening, to the N. W. about three miles; and the illand of 'J'xinia, from South to S. 123° E. eight or nine leagues. 'J'he night was moderate, and we plied under eaiy fail. .\t day-light we found the current liad fet us contiderably to the E. N. E. We made iail to the weftward. As we drew in with the laml \vc obferved feveral villages feattcred along the flu)re. The coaft was much broken, and appeared likely to afford fiielter ; and the external view was not the moft favourable, prcfentijig rather an inhofpitable profpecTt. .il-H At noon we had dark gloomy weather, and our fituation with refpe(5l to the ii, ^d the fame as lall evening. Two bays were open to us, bearing N. 25" W. and N. 65° ^Y. ; a rock, S. 70° W. IP \i |: i4ih. Light breezes and rainy weather. Soon after noon we faw fome fifliing boats, and prevailed upon one of them to come on board. I5y figns we underllood 2 the TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 3?9 tlKJ opening to the N. W. as moft eligible, and wc chap. bore ii|) for it. Off* the north point of entrance wc ^^^ raw fonie llupcndous black rocks detached fomc oadblr. diilance from tlie fliorc : ^Te pallid within half a cable's length of them, carrying .'JO fathoms, muddy bottom ; and gradually afterwards flioaled our water to 1j, 10, and 5 fathoms. In the entrance on tlic fouth fide is a high rocky ifland. To the North of it is a i'awdy bay, where we obfervcd a large village, and cultivations furrounding it ; and to the weflward, through the rain and mill, wc faw fcveral fcattered rocks, which induced us to turn to windward for the fandy bay ; and before dcu'k wc came to an anchor, in four fathoms water, fandy bottom, half a mile from the fliore. It continued raining without intermiflion till day- light, when we had fair and plcafant weather, with the wind from the N. W. quarter. The fea was open to us from the South to S. 23° E. ; and in the angle we faw very diflindly the ifland of Tzima, at ten leagues diilance. Early in the morning we were furrounded by boats full of men, women, and children, whofe curiofity had u u brought f: iSO^ A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERT m i' \A BOOK brought them off to fee the llrange velTel. They were- ' — '"'^ univeriaWy cloathed in Unen varments made into loofe 1797. ■■ oaober. jackets and trowfers, ffuilted op doubled ; and fome of' them wore large loofe goAvna. The women had a. fhort petticoat over their trowlers-; and both fexes, linen boots, with fandals made of rice ftraAV. The men wore their hair in a knot tied up to the crown,, and the women had theirs t willed and plaited round, their heads. V \ The features and' complexion* of thefe people rc- fembled the Chinele, particularly their fmall eyes;: and in general all our vifitors^were extremely ordinary iri their perfons : but it is to be remembered there were no young, women of the party; the females be- ing compofeu entirely of old women and children. 'i^it il- In the morning; we went on ffiore in learch of water, landing at the village for that purpofe; and- firoin thence one of the inhabitants condudled us to a fine run of water, moft conveniently fituated for our purpofe. "We were in want both of wood and water ; but of the former article the country feemed very deficient. After taking fome altitudes for the watch, and obferving the diftances for the longitude, we took a walk, attended by a numerous party of the 8 villagers. If' ,i; I'll TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN, 331 Tillaocrs. The harbour, we ncrceived, extended fomc CHAP. . VJI. diftancc to the weftward of the rocks we had noticed v— —- / in coming in, and alfo to the N. E. and S. W. of tliem, o£tobci. terminating in fniall bays that afforded ihelter from all M'inds. Many villages were fcattered round the harbour; and in the N.'W. part we obferved a larg^^ town, encircled with ftone walls, and battlements upon them. Several junks were laying in a bafon near it, protected by a pier. Another mole or bafon appeared to the S. W. of the other, near Ibme white houfes of a fuperior conffrudtion, cncloled by a thick wood. The villages feemcd to abound with people, and the harbour full of boats failing about on their dif- ferent avocations. They were fnnilar in figure, thouoli inferior in workmanfliip, to the Chinefe bouts ; and hke them made ufe of Ikulls and matted fails. As we came near another village they flopped and beo-f^cd we would not proceed anv farther; and wc x:omplied with their requeft. On our return we re- marked feveral graves, which the natives had pointed out and explained to us : they were placed in an Eaft and Weft diredion, and the ground elevated over i:f m '') f 'A. II' vis u u 2 them. ! 'I I i if d 3S'2 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK them. Trees were planted in a fenii-circular form II. ' — -^~ round mod of them, and univerfallj dillinguiflied by oaobcr. fome (lone work. We got on board to dinner ; and in the afternoon we were vifited by fome fuperior people, who cane from up the harbour. They were dreffed in large loofe gowns, and were paid great deference to by the common people. They had on large black hats, with high crowns, ' ianufa6lured with a ftrong gauze not unlike horfe hair, very ftifF and ftrong. They tied them under the chin ; and thefe hats, ferving as umbrellas, Avere three feet in diameter. 1 1 ■ i i ; 4 ! 1 1 Each perfon carried a fan, with a fmall fillagree box attached to it, containing perfume ; and a knife handfomely mounted was faftened round their waift. A boy attended each of them, who had charge of their tobacco pipes ; and whofe occupation was to keep their drefles fmooth. Moft of them wore their beards long. Their inquiries feemed to tend to a knowledge of what brought us to their country ; but I fear our replies gave them very little fatisfa6tion, as we could fo little comprehend each other. They were feem- inglj t : i^ Hi TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. •"^S iJOi inglj pleafcd with their reception, and foon after took CHAP. T r ■ vii. leave oi us. — ,— ^ 1797- Oaober. We went on fliore to afcend the hii^h land near us to the South, and iVom thence to take Ibme bcarino-s. Our view from the top was very cxtcnfivc ; and we faw diilinctly over every jiart of the harbour. Our angles were however ufelcfs, the needle bchig fo ftrongly afteded as to point Eail inftead of North, owing to'fomc magnetic power in the mountain, which would not admit the needle pointing true in any fitua- tion. This hill was high and rocky ; but the fides produced coarfe grafs, on which cattle were feeding ; and in the lower parts, fome paddy fields. On our return on board in the eveninc: we found the vcfiel crowded with viiitors, nor could we get rid of them till dark, and even with great difficulty, ufing almoft; violence to induce them to go into their boats. At lafl; they went on Ihore. If m m 'If ■ 'ii n Soon .after dark we were furprized feeing thefe boats coming off from the Ihore, full of men, and very de- firous to come on board. I did not chufe to permit them, and they came to an anchor along-fide. As we were unacquainted with their intentions, their conduit ! II ill iri. in •i ^ij S34 1797- Oftobcr, A TOYAGE OF DISCG^TERT BOOK condu(5l appeared to us fufpicious ; and we prepareA for the worll, having every body ilationed at their quarters. In a lliort tii.re a boat came to them from the fliore with liglit,,, which being diilributed amongll the others, aftd fome confultation« they took uj) their anchors aiui rowed on iliore to the village. rfl :i i i|:i ijth. Frefli breezes and very pkafant weather from the N. W. quarter : the nights were cool and the days warm, having a clear fun. We had no boats off tiH after breakfaft, when two came full of vifiters, dreffcd in a fuperior flyle to any we had yet feen. In each Avcre fome foldiers capying fmall fpears, that Avere as ilaffs to their colours, which were a blue fattin field, with their arm« in yellow charadters. The hats of the foldiers were decorated with peacock's feathers. They made me a prefent of fait fifli, rice, and fea-weed (fucus facharinus). r 1 After many inquiries refpedUng us, we plainly faw they were extremely anxious for our departure, which I explained to them was impoffible, as we were much in want of wood, water, and relVeflmients. They im- mediately offered to fend us any quantity of the former; but I could not perfuade them t797- Oaober. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY led us to fuppofe they had fome other view to gratify than mere curiofity, by coming fo late. The arrival of our new friends prevented our being troubled with fo many vifitors, much to our fatisfac- tion. But unfortunately the fame intcrdidiion ex- tended to our walking on fliore, but not fo much fo as to preclude our making aftronomical obfervations, or taking off water ; yet the affemblage of people was fo great as to materially aff'edt our operations, not- withftanding the military were fo (lationed «s to keep off the crowd, which they did at times mofl efFeo- tually, by exereifmg upon their perfons large bamboo fticks. t i In the afternoon they fent us water in jars and tubs, and took our cafks with them afterwards, as a more expeditious way of fupplying us, which were brought off in good order. A foldier conftantly attended in thefe boats, who feemed to liave the principal direc- tion. J; . The night was moderate, and fair weather from the northwai'Q Frefli trrf ii Ill It) niE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. JVolli l)rcczcs and very Iquallj Iroiii the N. E. (luarler, with dark cloudy wcullier, ^vllicll prevented our having niueli communication witli the iliore. Our friends, notwithltanding the violence of the wind, fent us both wood and water. The wind remained in the fame quarter, but more moderate; and in the afternoon we were vifited by deputies from the great men, to know if we had wood and water enough to permit our failing. I told them, it was not my intention to fail for three days. They were then delirous I fliould make it two days, which I would not agree to. After taking fome rcfrelhment, they went on fliore to deliver the anfwer. The de- puties were gayly and handfomely drefTed ; their outer garments being chiefly fea-grcen, light blue, and French grey, highly glazed ; and the manufadure, of cotton, not very fine. They alfo wore very neat leather flippers, ornamented with fdver and golden fpangles. They were afta))le and converfable men. We landed oppofite the fehooner, to obferve tlic latitude ; and inftantly we had a military guard from the' villaoe, who attended to our motions till we re- turned on board. We were employed in the after- noon receiving wood and water. o:',7 CHAP. VII. '797- Oaobor l6tli. i-tl' 'm'i id II: li' ii X X Strong I I ! 1 PPT^ Tl 1 338 BOOK II. 1797. Oaober 18th. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Stiong breezes and cloudy weather from the N. E. quarter. Our friends were lUU employed bringing us water. Of wood wo were already complete ; it was all of the fame fort, and what is called the fox-tail pine. Some of the logs were very ' irge timber, Avhich gave us a great deal of trouble to cut and fplit. In the afternoon we had all our water on board : in con- fequence we had another deputation from our friends, who were made to underftand I fliould fta}^ two days longer to obferve the fun. >if In the evening the wind moderated ; and the heavy clouds produced rain, which continued throughout the night. Hi' : 1 'I |. 19th. Moderate breezes from the N. E., with conftan^t rain. We had another deputation refpeding our de- parture, equally unfuccefsful with the others : for the rainy weather entirely prevented our taking any alti- tudes to regulate the going of our watch. Il Thefe people made ufe of parchment covers for their hats, to exclude the rain; and they had um- brellas of the fame kind. The rain ftill continued without intermiiTion, which induced me to make an excurfion up the harbour, in hopes of not being mo- 1 Icflcd. TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. Our fricnils were not Inattentive to our nio- •339 CHAP. VII. lefiod tions, for we foon perceived two boats in purfuit of us. They however did not join our party till wc odSl/er. were returning ; which the incrcafing bad weather in- duced nie to do, without attending to their folicita- tions. We had moderate and very cloudy weather, and 20th. the rain had fubfided. Our friends came off in the morning, and ftrongly urged our departure ; but not having feen the fun, we could not oblige them. The weather alfo remained unfcttled ; and there was a great fea, in the offing, which caufed a fwell in the entrance of the harbour. They talked about our excurfion in the boat yefter- day, which they difapproved of, and explained that if we landed at the white houfes up the harbour we fliould be very ill treated, if not put to death ; and begged us not to go away in the boat any more. Soon after they landed ; and, as if they ftill fufpe6tcd our intentions, they immediately fent off four boats, having a foldier with their colours in each. I would not fuffer them to come along-fide, and they re- mained at anchor as guard-boats upon our bows and quarter. Towards the evening they left us to oiir- X X fclves, 'I!') I H' % il :340 BOOK II. 1797- Ocluluv. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY folvrs. We only landed und took oil" Ibmo water, to wliii-h llicy had no objections. 'J he nii^hl was mo- derate and iair ; and the heavy clouds gradually dil- j)crl"cd, leaving towards ihe morning a clear aUno- Iphcre. 2lfl. i;.; • i i i * i' i1^ Frcfli hicczcs aiul verv pleafant weather. Before day-light 1 left the veiiel, unperceivcd by our Corean guards, and proceeded uji the harbour to complete a llictch ol" it. At day-light we tiiw fires near our village, which we luppoled were fignals rcrpe(5^ing the boat. AVc however, having landed on the I'outhern fide, and continued examining that fide of the har- bour, remained unperccived by them, as there were no habitations near us, and returned on board to ])reakfafK It a})pcared our abfcncc had thrown the village into great confufion : boats were difpatched in every dircc'^tion after us, but we had efcaped them all. The morning was favourable, and we took our lall altitudes. Soon after, we received a vifit from one of our principal friends, avIio fcemed particularly pleafed at our preparations for failing. I prefented him with a telcfcope and a piftol, the only articles lie feen\ed defirous of poflelling ; and we parted with mutual fatisfadion. We foon after got under way, ind made fail out of the harbour, to the great joy of our TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. Sii our Coivaii IViciKls, who were allciublcd in crctit niiin- CHAP. VII. bors on Ihc adjacent liills oblbrving our departure. We felt ouiTelves uiucli obliged by their Aipplic.s of wood anil waUr, without expecting any thing in return. * • ■ •797- Odober. II Tliis harbour is railed Tfliolan, or Chofan, by the inhabitants. It is iituated in the S. E. part of the coail of Cor(>a, in the latitude of 3.5" 2' N., and l^i)" 7' E. longitude ; and bears S. S. E. and N. N. AV. irom the north part of the illand of Txinia, at ten leagues' dilUmce. It has a fafe entrance, and no dangers to be apprehended on 'either iliGrc. Two miles to the AVeil of the black rocks, on the north fide of entrance, is an abrupt high head-land, which 1 named ^lagnetic Head, from ils alTecl:ing ourcompnfs needles. North of this head is a fijie fandy bay, with jiood anchorao-e, where we remained during our itav, having the fea open for two points of the compals, in which angle we faw tliftindly the illand of Tzima. The chart will belt explain the harbour, which, with- out any prctenfions to great accuracy, will anl'wer every purpofe to the navigat(jr. It is the beft our time, and the reftridions wc were under, cnal)led us to make : and to the Iketch I refer ibr iuvther par- ticulars. It -if, , , ( • i-i W: iti>t ^ .: \l^ DOOK 11. 1797. Oaobcr. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY It will be oblcrvocl how little opportunity we liad to make any remarks upon tl»c culioms and manners of thefe people, from their avoiding as mueh as poHible any intercourse with us. Indeed this treat- ment we have been univeiially accullomed to, both at the land of Infoo and the Lieuchieux illands. It appears by their behaviour they are by no means defirous of cultivating any intercourfc whatever with llrangers. They fcemed to look upon us with great indirterencc, which I fuppole was owing to the infig- nificancy of our veflTel ; or peihaps, tlieir not compre- hending what nation we belonged to, or what our purfuits were, made tliem felicitous for our departure, probably from a fufpicion of our being pirates ; or fome other reafon we could not divine. The laud furrounding the harbour was much in- fulated, rifmg in parts to very high hills, deilitute of wood and verdure in general ; but in fome places were a few fcattered pine trees. On the fouth fide, which is a peniufula, it was better wooded ; and amongft the pines were other diciderous trees, but of what kinds we were unacquainted, as the jealoufy of the people entirely prevented our acquiring any knowledge of the productions of the country. In- deed in no inilance would they admit our refcarches. There TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 3-1:5 TluM'c wero feveral large villages icuttercd about chap. the harbour, ail of them feerningly very populous, -J^ilw and generally feated in pleaCaut fituations, with trees oiloL. interrperfcd among the houfes. The iioules were fniall, all of one llory, and thatched. The lands were cultivated in the Japancfc manner, rifing in ridges above eacli otiier between the hills, which gave tliem an opportunity of eafdy conducing water to the rice «rrounds. We faw horfes, hogs, poultry, and black cattle, of which articles much as we were in want we could not procure. Money, at lead of European coins, they had no idea of; but they pcr- fedly iniderftood the value of gold and fdver, their knives, &c. being ornamented in the workmanfliip with thofc metals. They were well acquainted with guns and fire- arms, but we faw no appearance of oflenfive weapons amongft them, nor did they feem any way appre- henfive of the fmall force we poflelTed. All their attention was paid to expedite ofur departure ; and yet many articles of European manufadture excited their curiofity, particularly our woollen clothing. I;! As a commercial nation, of courfe they were mcH acquainted and converfant in trade ; but with us they did ill IP »•• ' ;V14 1^ O O K 11. Oaobtr. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY did not focm dcfirous of making any rxclum^cs what- ever, wliieli may be owing, probably, to tlic articles we poflelfed being of no vahie in their eftimation. Indeed we had nothing to excite their attention, or fatisfy their curioiity, exeept our wearing aj^parel, 'J'he following obfervatioijs were made for the longi- tude, kc. •'' ' ' '. PI m Variation for AzlmutliS with two compafles, 2" 8' 0" W. Ther. 62° to 70° Mean latitude of the Ibuth point of entrance, 35° 2' o" N. Mean of 37 fets of diftances, taken before our an-ival, 129° 24' 18" E. Mean of 42 fets on each fide of the moon, at anchor, 128° 46' 49" Mean of 20 fets, taken after leaving the harbour, 129° 18' 15'' The mean of the 99» rcdueed by the watch, will make 129' 7' 7 ", which is taken for the true longitude of Tchofau harbour. !r j!; '' i i m V i B}"^ fingle altitudes taken on fliore, Ixjtween the l-3th and 2111 of Oclober, the watch N°45 M^as flow for mean time at o TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 345 As it appears the watch goes fo irregularly, or that Chap. tlic rate acquired at Endonio harbour is lubjea to J^ i'omc error, I liave flie^'ii daily the longitude by oJbblr IMacao rate, corrcaing its error in longitude at En- donio, Avhich makes it agree better with all the obferva- lions we have made fince leaving Volcano bay. I| ifci 1^.1 ' H i y Y iP F*" 'H 340 A VOYx\GE OF DISCOVERY ■V i 1- » 41 m • It BOOK 11. 1797. Oftober 22d. CHAP. VIII. Departure from Chofan.—Fmd ourfehes in a Clujler of I/lands.^ Vifited by the Natives.^Of the IfJand of ^elpaert, Frksii breezes and fine clear weather. At half paft 2 h. we faw fome rocky illes and ledges in our courfe : we therefore fteered more foutherly, to pafs without them. At 3 h. the extreme part of the main land bore Weft; and we could diftinguiAi the coaft no longer for a elufter of iflands in that direction, with many rocks between them : fome only even with the water. At 5h. an high rock bore N. 49° W., in one with the iflands fet at noon without the extreme of the Corean land. After rounding it very clofe we hauled up to the weftward ; the ifland of Tzima then bear- ing from S. 40° E. to S. 60° E. At funfet the ex- treme of Corea, to the North, N. l6° E. ; and the ex- treme of Rocky Iflands, N. 76° W. three leagues. At •1 I TO THE NORTH PzVCIFIC OHEAN. 34r At (ill. .30m. wc hauled our wind, and plied under chap. (^aiy Tail for the nighf. It blew Itrong, with a good vJl'lL deal of fea ; and at day-light the high rock bore N. E. odtober. four or five miles. The weather was fo hazy wc could not fee in any direction more than two Icaoucs. Wc hauled up W. N. W. for the rocky iHands ; and at « h. 30 m. A. M. wc faw them to the N. W. Soon after we faw a fmgle rock to the Weft, which we paiTed to the South of within a mile. It was high and perforated. Before we loft, light of it wc faw another, in fliapc like a haycock ; and more illands to the weft ward. At noon wc had ftrong breezes and thick hazy weather. The haycock rock bore N. 76° W. two miles ; and the weftern iflands, from N. 44° W. to88°W. I't; hi Frefli breezc5, and uncommonly hazy round the liorizon. At 1 h. we faw another rocky ifland to the South. As it appeared we were completely fur- rounded by a clufter of iilands, which rendered our navigation very intricate, and indeed ufelefs, I thought it beft to haul up and fcek for llielter among the iflands to the N. W. We gradually Hiortened our water as we approached them ; and after paffing the eattern point we had fmooth water. We foon per- y Y 3 ccived 23.i. iit\ ■f :.{48 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK ceived tliem to bo inhabited, mid very well cuiti* •>— ^-^^ vated : "\vc alio law Ibvcral, boats a-iilhing. Tliclb oaobcr. iflands were rather high, and in parts well wooded,, and feparated from each other by very narrow pal- fages. m Vtr'- I' .5 ! I', -31 ?;■ At 4 h. we were clofe in with the land ; tlie noon extreme bearing S. 32° E., when we lleered to the W. S. W., in the dire(!:tion of a woody illand, off whielt w^ere fome ledges of rocks fcattercd at unequal dif- tances. At funfet the extreme, fct at noon N. 88° W.,. now bore S. E. ; high land, S. 50° W. ; and the extent of the woody ifland, N. 50° E. two miles. We plied during the night to preftrve onr ftation oft' the woody illand. At 18 h. it bore from us N. 26° \V. two or three miles ; and we had the fame hazy weather. At 19 h. 30m. we were entangled with rocks and i(lan(k : we could proceed no further to the N. W., we there -^ fore fteered to pafs without the high land, and nar- rowly efcaped two rocks, even with the water, to the N. W. of it. As we fteered to the S. W. we could jull difcern, through the haze, fmall illands and roeks in, every direftioa; and after. pafling. between two that* are South of the high land we hauled up to the N. W. At 21h. wc loft; fight of the high land, bearing^ 6 N. 70^ ( ) TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 340 ^ !, N. 70° E. two leagues: and at noon two illands in chap. vrii. one bore S. 29° E. ; two more, N. 48° E. ; Long — . — ' IHand, S. to S. AV. by W. oaoto. Liglit breezes and very hazy weatlier. AVe kept our Avind for the only clear paffage we could fee aniongft the iflands. At 3 h., finding a current againft us, we came to an anchor in ten i'athonis, muddy bottom. The extremes, forming the paflage at noon, bore from S. 5° E. to S. 60° E. ; the latter point, in one with two illands, two or three miles diftant. In every other diredion we were furrounded by land, but our view was very imperfecSt and limited. 24th. M n On the iftands we obferved villages and cultiva- tions, and many boats on the water paffing to and fro ; but they did not come near us. We found the current conthmed regular from the N. W. about If miles per hour. The night was moderate and cloudy; and in the morning we had a frefli breeze at N. N. W., with the ftream or tide in our favour. We got under at 7 h. A. M. and turned to the N. W., keeping the land to the North clofe on board in our traverfes, which ap- peared bold; and after paffing fome fmall rocky illands > iJ ( m 3oO BOOK II. «797- Odober, A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY illaiuls we opened a channel to the "Wefl, about t\vo miles wide, much indented with fmall bays, and many rocky iflands lying in the fair way, but free of all dan- ger, having reguhir foundings, and gradually llioaling as we approach either fliorc from fifteen to feven and five fathoms. The land on each fide aiforded a pleaf- ing view ; many fpots being richly cultivated, and the country interfperfed with villages. Various boats failing in every direction. m it; Before noon we came to in ten fathoms mud, when the iflands that bore N. W. by N. at our laft anchorage now bore S. 74° E. two or three leagues ; and our prefent fituation was fo encircled by iflands that we could fee no opening whatever leading to lea. The mailer went to the neareil, to obferve the latitude and make other remarks ; but the hazy weather prevented his feeing any more iflands to fhe Well, which prevented our making any conclufioii refped;ing the paflage. . " i t^ Frelli breezes and hazy Aveafher ; and towards the evening it partly cleared away. The wind remained in the N. W. quarter. After noon we were vifited by a boat from a large town, which bore N. l6°W. two miles from us. They brought with them a paper in written t ' 1 TO rilE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. J.U written cbarac^ters, peifeclly unintclligihlo, to which chap. we could make no reply. About an hour afterwards ' — ^^ ue faw Icveral boats coming otV, and one of tlieni in oS'r. a gay ftilc, with fcveral Ibldicrs carrvino- fdkcn Hatrs, and a larger one of red and purple in the bow. They pulled to the mufic of trumpets ; and the military were armed with fabres. Under a canopy was tea ted a very confcquential man upon a leopard's ikin, with culliions to rell upon, and a fuite of attendants about liim, all habited in the fame ftile with thofc at Chofan. ii;: They came on board without any ceremony, and immediately transferred his matts, &c. while one of his train held a large umbrella over him to keep oft" the fun, and the reft kept at a moll rcfpec^lable diilance. He aflvcd many queftions that I did not underftand, excepting inquiries relating to our ar- rival, &c. and his anxiety to know our numbers, which he was not fatisfied with from my anfwers, but infifted upon having them counted before him ; and immediately delired his people to begin. This liberty 1 would not permit, which feemed to difpleafe him. ,ii^ He appeared very defirous we iliould ftay fome days, and begged we would fend the boat on fliore ; and s A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK ami on his departure repealed the tame roquelt. On ■- — "-^ my objecting to it he feeuied much liirpriied. Tlihi October, niivn >vas parliculary liaunlity in his manner, and treated us by his l)elia\ iour \\ itii the moil luvereign contempt. After itaying ab(jut halCan hour he went away, leaving two boats with us as i'pies, as we fup- pofed, upon our conduct. They anchored clofe to us, and two others were fent away ^\ ith mellagcs. I' ■ Initcad of going to the village, avc obfervcd the great man remained with his boat at the point of the illand. The weather being much clearer in the after- noon, lit 3 h. P. 1\I. we got under way, and Hood between the illands to the weftward, having a fine breeze from the North. The inftant we made fail, the boat from the ifland followed us, hooting and hollowing and founding their trumpets for us to Hop ; we paid no attention to them, and finding they could not come up, they relaaded again at the other extreme of the iiland. fe: ' i What this man's intentions were I cannot determine, but to me I mull own they appeared fufpicious ; and i did not think it ncccffary to wait the refult of them at the expence of the clear weather : as we uiiderftood them TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 353 them they called this part Chofaii-co. At 4h. wc chap. . vui. paflTed an opening leading to fea between fome rocks ^— "v-*^ and illands laying off the weft end of an high illand ; oaobcr. and at funfet we had run near 12 miles in a W. S. W. diredion. The land to the N. N. E. appeared high and much broken, and connected by ranges of hills at the bhvk. At 6h. we were oppofite to another opening leading to fea, and we came to in (i^ven fathoms, muddy bottom. The i(land on which we obferved the latitude bore N. 67° E., and a deej» entrance in the high land, leading probably to a river, N. N. E. Our foundings in the afternoon varied from 17 to 7 fathoms, according to our diftance from the land ; and the paflage was extenfive and free of all danger from Latitude Ifland to our prefent fituation. The flood-tide came from the S. W., and it run much ftronger than the ebb ; tiie rife and fall was about nine feet. The morning was moderate and hazy, and we could fee about three or four leagues ; the wind was a gentle breeze from the North, with which we got under way, and fteered to the S. S. W., having illands and rocks on each fide. On the con- tinental fide we fuw feveral villages ; a large one bore Weft of us at anchor. At 21 h. 30 m. we came abreaft of a point of land from whence the coaft tends to the weftward. An infinity of fmall illands lay in the z z fame t\ i i'hi S.) I. 1^0 OK II. '797- Oaober. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY lame diicdion, and wc liad not wind enough to enable us to follow the dirc(ftion of the coaft. At noon it bore from us N. 2V F^. f>x or fevei> miles the point, and an high hummock ifle S. W. one mile ; we had the fea open to the S. 8. E. and S. S. W.; in every other dire(Stion we faw iilands, fome juft appearing through the haze. I counted thirty of various magnitude. On the large cues were extenfivc villages, fituated in fmall bays well wooded with fandy beaches, and every accefllblc part feemed to be cultivated. Boats were fi(hing, and the water was perfectly fmooth, with fcarcely any wind to difturb it or aflift our motion. Our foundinirs before we cleared the paflTage increafed to IC, and 15 fathoms, and after decreafed to 10 fathoms, mud. H Ml 1 m I 26th. Light airs and calms, with a current fetling us to the S. W. ; we paffed within 30 yards of the Hummock Ifland, which appeared to us InacceiTible ; we however faw fome people upon it whom I fuppofe were fifliermen. In the evening we had the wind wefterly, and we kept plying through the opening in a S. S. AV. diret^ion. TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 355 cJireAion. At 8h. we anchored in 15 fathoms, clofe chap. Vlll. m with the weftern iflands. The night was moderate, ^-^v-— - and the current fct to the N. E. one mile per hour, oftobei. In the morning the weather was more clear Jian ufual, and we law many illands and rocks to the S. W. ; and an cxtenlive illand rifing to a great height in the centre bore from S. 6° W. to S. 25° W. *i The illands between which wc anchored were four or five miles apart, and of confiderable extent ; they were alfo well cultivated, but no wood appeared, except round the villages : we ftill obferved feveral boats employed fifliing, but we could not induce them to come near us. At 19 h. we got under way, and made fail to the S. W. ; as I fuppofed the large illand to be Quclpaert, I was defirous to examine it. By noon it bore from S. 18° E. to S. 25* W. Hum- mock Illand juft vilible N. 40"" E. eight leagues. A groupe of rocky illands N. 71° W. to S. 78" W. A fmgle one S. W. ; a linall aat iQand S. 35' E. two miles. Another illand due eaft. Frefli breezes, which foon brought on the fame hazy 27th. weather. n ■if z z 2 We :J5(> A VOYAGE OF DISC0\T:RY BOOK II. >797- Oaobcr. Wc juft weathered the rock fet at noon S. \V., and foon after we faw another in the fame diredion two or three miles ; and the haze entirely obfcured the ifland of Quelpaert. At funfet thefc rocks were to the caftward of us five or fix miles ; and mc could juft difcern the groupe to the N. N. E. at the fame diftanco. I We plied to windward during tlie night, having the fame weather. The haze cleared away partly, which gave us a view of Quelpaert from S. 5" W. to S. 72° E. four or five leagues ; the rocks bore N. 70" E. and N. 4(> E. three or four miles, and the groupe N. b. E. ; we had been fet towards the rocks five or fix miles in the night. We fteered for the ifland, which at the weft extreme is low and rocky; before you come to it you pafs a fraall iftand clofe in fliore, with a green furfacc ; and off the extreme point is another, but rocky and fmaller ones within it. We remarked feveral patches of white fand fome diftance from the fea ; and in many parts were rifing hillocks or mounts well cultivated up their fides. A round high rock bore of ii6 at noon S. 85" E. ; this was remarkable on the ftiore. Green Ifland N. 36" E. The rocky ifland off the weft extreme TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 057 extreme N. 27' K. two or three miles. A hummoek CHAi*. VIII. point making the othrr extreme S. 68' E., and the s-^v-iL* I 7Q7, centre hill N. Ti" E. Tiir^ linoke of fires was perceived oftober. ill every part of the laud. At 1 h. the fouth extreme bore Eaft, and we hauled up for the land. After running four miles we per- ceived two low flat iflands off the fouth point, fur- rounded by reefs, and to appearance connedted with the point by flioals. AVe alfo faw breakers to the fouthward at a very little diftance. We tacked, a»d lleered out the lame diftance we came in, and after- wards fleered to the S. E. The whole of the flat land was entirely covered with habitations, but we faw no boats or junks. At 6 h. the outer flat ifland boro N. E., and we hauled off to the Weft for the night,, plying as nfual under an cafy fail. At 20 h. wc made fail, having the fame bearings as laft evening. ^Ve paflfed within two miles of the outer flat ifland in 50 fathoms, and continued our courfe in the diiCc^ion of the ifland of Quelpaert. At noon t-he fouth point bore N. 55" W. : outer flat ifland N. 81° W. ten leagues. Centre of the peak N. Vf E., and the extreme N. 56° E. oft' fliore four or five miles. Tiic greatcft extent of this ifland is an E. N. E. and W. S. W. diredion 11 or 12 leagues long. The peak is remark- 6 ^hle 28th. ^8 ■H li^i li- I- J i. o 558 11. 1797. Oaober. lS)th o ' A VOYAGE Ob DISCOVERY able high land, rifing grail iially fioui the extremes, and is nearly in the centre of the iiland. The foutli point is fituated in the latitude of 33° 11' N., and 126° 20' call longitude. i o . The eaft extreme bore of us K, 30° E. five or fix leao^ues, and we had now fe?n the extent of Qudpacrt. In no direoiion could we fee any other land, although the weather was tolerably clear. As I was defirous of a<>-aiu niakins the Corean coaft, we tacked and flood to the weftward. The night was moderate, and after the moon fet we plied to windward as ufual till daylight. The morning brought with it very thick, hazy weather, which entirely hindered us from feeing the ifland. °The ifland of Quelpaert is encircled by a rocky fliore, chiefly of coral of a burnt or fcorched colour, not quite black. In feveral parts on the flat land were rocks of great magnitude arid uncommon forms ; the effects to appearance of fome natural convulfion, from which circumftance I conclude the ifland to be volcanic.^ We TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 359 We faw no opening nor any boats, but the anchor- CH ap, agc on the fouth fide is very good, when to the eaft- ' — ^ ward of the flat illaiids. Tlie ifland may be fcen at oftSir. 25 leagues diftance, if not more from its great elevation. i* Light breezes and very cloudy. 6 h. The weather clear and pleafant. 12 h. Light winds. 13 h. Tacked and flood to the N. N. E. at 1 h. 30 m. ' At half paft 15 h. tacked. 18 h. Smooth water and fair weather. 20 h. Puffed many blubbers, and quantities of fea- wced. 24 h. Ditto winds and weather. 30th. ' r L If: Moderate breezes and clear weatlier. 8 h. The haze came on again very thick. 14 h. Light airs and calms. Soundings per column. , 16 h. Brought to till daylight. 19 h. Made fail. 20 h. The fea appeared very wliite through the haze, and in the morning we faw many land-birds, amoDgii them a dove and a quail. 24h. -ifl. ■M ! I. km ( t r. 360 BOOK II. 1797. November ill. 2d. 3d. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ' 24 li. Fair weather, but very hazy. Frefli breezes and the fame haj^y weather. 5h. As we deepened our water the fea in fonie (iegreo loft its whitifli appearance, and became more green. 12 h. Light airs, and more clear round the horizon 16 h. Tacked fliip till daylight, when we again ftood to the weft ward. 24 h. Frefli breezes and clear weather. Light breezes and clear weather. 12 h. Calm and fair weather. 19 h. In the moraing we examined our provifions, and found, excepting fait meat, we had not enough to laft the month of any other fpecies ; nor fpirits, even at half allowance. 24 h. Light airs at noon, with fair weather. As we were by our longitude near the coaft of China, and the wind remaining fteady from the S. W. quarter, I thought it beft to keep our wind in for the land, founding conftantly every hour. We gradually decreafed our water ; and at midnight, having flioaled to 11 fathoms, hard fandy bottom, we tacked and flood off till the morniDg under an ea(y fail. Not- withftanding t' 'i'lr TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. •30' I withftaiuling \vc ftecrcd out iii the .fame direction wo chap. had conic in, we had lufs water for two or three — -^ leagues, which I imputed to a current fetting us November, to the North of our eftimation. At day-light we tacked and made fail in for the land, having a ftrono- breeze and very hazy weather, with a confufed fea, fcemingly agitated by a ftrong tide or current. The V, atcr w as of a dirty yellowifli colour, and very thick, which made me conclude we were off the Nanking rivei". In the morning we faw feveral junks at anchor and under fail; and at 22 h. 4.5 m. we faw the land. Upon a nearer approach it proved to be a ledge of rocks, bearirig AVeft ; and we had only five fathoms water. At 23 h. 30 m. we tacked in lefs than four fathoms, when the ledge bore S. 78° W. four or five miles; and the tide fet us to the North, among the junks at anchor. We faw low land to the No th antl Well of the rocks ; and at noon the ledge was jufi vifible from the deck, fix or {iixQW miles, bearing 8. 7S° W. Very thick hazy weather. This eftimation will make the rocks in the kitiuule of 31° 5G 31' N. and 122' 4' 32" E. 3 a At ■ ; If S62 BOOK II. >797- November 4th. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY At 1 h. we had deepened our water, and we ftccrcd to the N. E., intending to range the coaft of China up to the northward. In half an hour's fail we lliort- ened again to five fathoms : we then hauled our wind till we increafed our water to 13 fathoms, when wc again bore away to the E. N. E. I fufpedl the tide had fct upon a bank, as we obferved a fixed buoy up- on it, when we had the lead water ; but when the haze, or more properly the fog, prevented our judging very c()rre(^ly of any thing, from the perpetual obfcurity of the weather. 1. 'I? :-:f if!" w At 9 h., the wind blowing fteady and firong from the S. ^V., we hauled our wind till day-light, in hopes of more favourable weather. In thefe hopes we were much difappointed, as the haze or fog was much thicker ; and the wind veering to the Weft and N. W. prevented our feeing or approaching the coaft of China. We however ftood to the North, as the wind permitted. I It' ,i In the forenoon we paflTed feveral junks, ftanding on different courfes ; and all of them we had yet fccn had three mafts. One of them had a fourth : this was fixed clofe forward and outfide the veflcl, ujjon the i TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 363 the bow. They were painted differently to thofe we ^^j^^- were accuftomed to lee at Canton. '— ^' • 1797- November. We bad loft the thick yellowifli appearance of the fea, but the water was much difcoloured in patches, as if difturbed at the bottom. We paffed clofc to the leeward of a large junk, whofe after-lails were of cotton inftead of matts. She was painted in the fore part and ftern only, and on her quarters were fome characters in black. They had lee-boards ; but notwithftanding, flie went bodily to leeward, and Hie failed very heavily. There were about twenty men to navigate her. In the morning we had fine, clear, pleafant weather -, and having deepened our water, the fea refumed its natural colour. L>,'3 h. I^argc fwell from the N. W. quarter. 24 h. Moderate and fair weather. Moderate wind and very clear weather 7 h. Light airs inclining to calms. I'Z h. Calm and clear weather. 18 h. We faw an illand to the N. K. ten or twelve 5tli leagues. .> A - 11) h. 6th. !l ^64 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK 10 h. Light airs. — .-^ 24 h. At noon the ifland from N. 48' E. to 53° E. November, icven or eight leagues. H I 7th. Light airs and fair weather. ^i'he ifland from N. 62° to N. 69' E. 12 h. Dark cloudy weather. 10 h. Very fqually weather, with heavy rains. The wind fuddcnly Ihifted to the N. W. quarter. During the violence of the wind we lay to. Saw the ifland to the eafl,ward. At noon the ifland from N. 31" E. to N. 52' E. four or five miles : a large fea from the North. This ifland, upon a nearer view, appeared to us much hif'her than we at firfl; fuppofed : it was alfo rocky and barren. Off the north extreme, which is the higheft part, are feveral detached rocks at a little diftance ; one of thein much larger than the others : but the ifland itfelf is very inconflderable in extent. It is fituated in the latitude of 34° 2' N., and longi- tude 123° .5' 0' E. 8tl». Frefli gales and very fqually weather, with a large fca from the North, i!i which (Quarter it remained tolerably mr M TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 30.5 tolerably clear ; but we could fee no other land. Tiic c H A p. wind totally preventing our progrefs towards the -^-^ Corean coaft, except in our former track, and the NoSei. wind being tteadily fixed in the North, 1 thought it needlefs to perfevere any longer, as we had only pro- vifions to the end of the month, even at half allowance. In conlequence of this circumftance we bore away to the S. E. ; and at funlei we faw the illand of Quel))aert bearing S. 5.> E. ; and the iiland we had left, N. 24° W. twelve leagues dirtant. At midnight, being to the fouthward of Quelpaert, we hauled up again to the S. E., having a fine clear moon-light. At day-light the peak on the illand of Quelpaert bore N. 43° E. eight or ten leagues ; and at noon t!ie fume mountain bore N. 15° E. 21 Icaajues. if Fine clear cold weather, and tl'c wind more mo- derate. % Frcfli breezes and fine weather. Scpially at times. 5 h. The peak on Quelpaert, at funfet, bore (hie North, 24 leagues. 12 h. Moderate and clear weather. At 9th> it f ! i d as I' i 1 m: 366 BOOK II. November loth. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY At half pall 18 h. altered our courfc to Eaft. 24 h. Very pleafant weather at noon. Moderate breezes and Ihie weather. 4 h. Saw land from the inall-liead. Some rocky idands bore off us S. 65° W. feven or eight leagues. At half paft 9 h. hove to for an hour, to wait the moon's rifing. The illands bore off us N. E. by N. three leagues. Hove to at half paft 15 h. to wait day-Hglit. The idands bore from N. 1?^ W to N. 33° W. They were five in number, and clofcly connected. The largeft were thofc to the Noitli and South. The fouthern one was high and peaked; and the whole clufter, of very little extent. At 22 h. 55 m. we loft fight of tiiem, bearing from N. 75° W. to N. 80" W. eight or ten leagues : at the fame time we faw high land to the E. S. E. At noon the land extended from S. 59° E. to S. 6'9° E. ; and we faw more diftant land to the eaftward, uiiconneded with the other. 24 h. !3 TO THE NORTH PACinC OCEAN. CI Ij. rrcdi breezes and very pleafant weather tlils 67 morning. Frclh breezes and Ajually weather, with frcq^ient rain, winch at times entirely obfcurcd the horizon. At '5 ii. 30 m. we fuw an high peaked rock bearing S. by E. : we altered onr conrfe to pais without it. At the fame time we had violent Iqualls, and the Avind veered more northerly. At 5 h. 30 m. we hauled our wind tor the night ; the peaked iiland bearing S. 1,'.5° E. four lea*Tues ; and the land fet at noon, i'roni N. 60° E. to N. 70° E. The more diftant land we could not fee. It blew (Irong all night, and we had a great fea, with much rain. At day-light the peaked iiland bore N. SS" E. : and feeing no more land, we bore up with a rtrong gale and iqually weather. The only chart avc had on board was one of Van Keulen's, wherein he j^laces the iiland of Meaxenid in 32° 0', and which is moil probably the fame land that bore to the E. S. E. of us yefterday, and to the N. E. laft evening, in which bearing it appeared like an iiland of confidcrable elevation ; and on the caft fide of it the hills were peaked. But the fqually o obibure CHAP, VIII. 1797. November nth. :m A VOYAGE or DlSCOVKllV ft liOOK obfcurc \vcalli(T, in tlio afternoon, alnioft cxclucU'tl -— -.-w our ftH^in'j; any thing; and 1 could not reconcile the Kovcmbcr. lit nation of the peaked illand with his chart. 1 2th. , '1 ■\\\ '■■-• i 1 r AVc hauled up as near the m ind as the feu peruiittcd. At half pall 2 h. wc faw an illand a-head, very high, and round at top. At 5 h. we faw four more in dif- ferent direaions, from S. 30' E. to N. 60° K ; the ucareft about U) leagues. At half \n\{i wc wore and hauled our wind, having no foundings with our line. 12 h. More moderate weather. l.'3h. Tacked fliip. I\[ade fail at ,day-light for the illands, extending from S. 15° K. to N. 43° E., eight in number. At 21 h. the wellcrnmoft, oft' which is a pinnacle rock, bore S. 5' W. two leagues ; and we tacked to the WcA. IModerate breezes and fair weather. P At noon wc counted ten illands extending from S. 10° E. to M . 45" E. They were of different mag- niludrs ; and three of the largell emitted fmoke at intervals throughout the morning. They were very elevated, and in general much broken, and prefented a barren pi TO THE NORTH PACTFIC OCEAN. SO'9 a barren rocky furface. The highcft one, the fame CHAp. we firll remarked, and now bore S. 58" E., was a vJ!3iL round lofty mountain, rifing with a fleep afecnt to its NoUmbet. fumniit from the northern part of the iiland. It may be dillinguiflied at a great diftance, and is the fame we faw on July the 15th, when we pafled on the caftern fide of them, going to the North. We ex- perienced to-day, fc the firft time fmce leaving Tfliofau harbour, a ftrong current, which had fet us S. 38° E. 39 miles; and which, in addition to the contrary wind, entirely prevented our making the fouthern part of the Japan ifles. We faw another ifland bearing S. 10' W. : and the former iilands extended from S. 49° E. to N. 50° E. ; the neareft five leagues. We hauled to the wcllward at funfet. 13th. A moderate wind fpringing iij) wc made fail to the S. W. The iflands prcfcrved nearly the fame bear- ings ; and at noon they extended from S. 'J9° E. to N. 66° E. ten or twelve Irno-ues. Eallcrlv current of 20 miles fince vellerday. n Light airs and calms, with frequent heavy fiiowcrs i.jth. of rain. :\ ij 6h. I I ■ ■ t r 37<> A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK ()h. At fimfct wc faw another illand bcarii»g ^^ S. 10" E. ; and the foutherii illaiul of thole let at noon November, borc S. 37° K- ten or twelve Ici.gucs. Thefe iOands M ere high and rocky, and very fmail. 12 h. Plcafant breezes and clear weather. 17 h. Bore away and made fail. 19 h. A frnall illand feeu bearing S. 32' E. The current thefe 24 hours has fct in the dircdion of N. .50° E. 28 miles, notwithilanding we had a flrong N. W. wind. 24 h. Frefti breezes and clear. Tlie iiland, S. 66" E. fix leagues. T5th. Frefti breezes and clear weather. At 2 h. 30 iii. the fmall illand bore N. 88'' E. I IS' ] 1 6th. It bore N. 83' E.; and ibon after we loft fight of it. 7 h. Hauled our wind under eafy fail. 13 h. Squally and cloudy weather. 18 h. Bore up and made fail. Large fwell. 24 h. Frefti breezes and gloomy weather. Frefti breezes and dark cloudy weather. 7 h. Hauled our wind and plied under eafy fail. 1 13 h. TO THE NORTH PACMC OCEAN. i;} h. Ditto weather, and a largo fwcll, 1() li. Wore fliip. 18 h. Made fail. CO li. Tlie heavy clouds difpcrled, and we had mild clear weather. By our oblbrvations vvc find the cur- rent has fet us N. 50' E. 43 miles lince the 14th at noon. 24 h. Moderate breezes. 371 CHAP VIII. "797. November. Moderate breezes and fair weather. 10 h. Brought to till day-light. 17 h. Made fail. 22 h. Current N. 39° E- l^i miles. 24 h. Fair weather and fmoolh water. 1 7th. Light breezes and mild pleafant \veather. 13 h. Gentle winds and very llnooth lea. 23 h. Eight miles only to the Ealt of accuiuit. 24 h. Eair and pleafant weather. i.Stli, Li'^ht breezes and fine weather. 7 h. Our ellimatcd latitude was CCi^ '22 Xortli ; and we lleercd Wert. 12 li. The wind decreafing. 18 h. Frefli breezes and clear weather. i.^tli. 3 B 2 Aftr o 372 BOOK o II. 1797 0/ A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY A^'ter muftering vrc performed divine fcrvicc. November. Current -39 miles eailerly. ° o24 h. Very pleafant weather. o SI' o o o O o o o O o o 0 o 20th. Moderate breezes and fair weather. Immediately ° afte? noon we faw land from the deck bearing S. 2" W. ° ° We knew this land to be the iilnnds we had pafilcd between on the 7th of J.uly lail. At 5h. we loll fight of them, bearing S. 15" E. 14 or 15 leagues. o 18 h. Variable and fqually weather. 23 h.Q Current ten miles North. 24 h. Strong breeze^ and dark weather. aift. Strong breezes and dark gloomy weather, with fre- quent fqualls £^nd a large fwell. o We hauled upon a wind -under a low fail, and preferved our fituation by tacking during the night. ' 12 h. Dark and difmal weather, with a large fea, and a frefli gale of wind. o 18 h. Bore away and made fail. At 22 h. 30 m. we difcovered the northern part of Formofa bearing S. 50° E. ; and at noon we faw it very indiftin6tly °through the haze from S? 65" E. to S. 75° E. five or ofix leagues? Difto weather Frcfli o o o o .'-MM«!Sifi**SS TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 373 Frefli gales and very dark hazy weather, with a chap. '>rrt\ /^n VIII large fea. 6' h. We hauled our wind for the night. 13 h. Strong gales, and the fea particularly lumi- nous ; appearing every brake as if we were in flioa) water. 18 h. Bore away with a high fea. 24 h. Hard gales and very fqually weather. Strong gales and fqually weather : verv thick and hazy round the horizon. At 2 h. we hauled up more, expecting to fee the land before dark ; but our view was fo confined by the weather we did not make it. At 6 h. we brought to for the night. Throughout it blew a hard gale of wind ; and we gradually decreafed our foundings as we approached the China coaft. The gale was more moderate, and we made fail in for the land, which we difcerned at 18 h. 30 m. bearing N. 24° W. three or four leagues ; and foon after Chappel Illand, which lies South of Amoy harbour, bore S. 6l° W. We pafT.d without it at two or three rniles diftant. The fine weather -? enjoved this J797- November 2ld. 23d. I .If W ' 1 374 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK til w morning brought an immenfe number of fiiliing ' — -^^ boats out of tlie harbour. They were fmall, and November, generally painted white, green, and red, with eyes to them all. At 22 h. 30 m. we loft fight of Chappel Ifland bear- ing N. 33" E. ; and at noon the high round hill, on the fouth fide of Amoy, bore N. 13° E. ; and the extreme to the South, S. 68° W. Some fmall iflant » were fcattered along fliore from N. 52» W. to 0'8° W., two or three leagues from us. Some high barren Innd bore N. N. W. J4th. Strong breezes and hazy weather. IF \''J At 2 h. we faw two rocks nearly in our courf<», and we llecred more foutherly to pafs without them. After running 13 miles we palled them at two or three miles dillance, and relumed our former courfe. At G h. we faw the Larnoch Iflands from the deck, bearing S. 70° AV. The rocks we had feen before were now jull vifible, N. 28° E ; and the extremes of the coaft of China, from N. 5° E. to N. 88° W. fix or ieven leagues. Oiu I 11- . .1 ,. ^^^ ■■ m TO ITIE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. o.- Our citcciiicd latitude at ll> h. was 22° 31' North ; chap. »nd wc hauled more to tlie wcftward. The coaft of -^^~ China, at daj-hghl, extended from N. N K to m ''^l' V v- \\r .1 r , November. i^.l^.\^. three or four leagues; and the fea was covered with fifliing boats to a great extent. Current of 22 miles to the W. S. W. thefe 24 hours. Frcdi breezes and very hazy weather. At noon we •were within three miles of the eallern pointof what is named Reyorfon's bay; and the water appearing difeolourcd we had fleered to the fouthward before noon. At noon the bay extended from N. 39'' E. to N. 70° AV., about two or three leagues from fome illands fituated in the bay. Frefli breezes and very hazy weather. We faw tlie rocks, Pedro Blanco ; and at 4 h. 30 m U bore S. W. from the deck. At 6h. we were due North from it four or five miles. 12 Ti. Brought to till day-Jight. 16 h. Bore up and made fail. 18 h. We faw the Great Lema bearing Weft about iour leagues, and we hauled i,p to the northward of It. At 20 h. it bore South two or three miles ; and at noon. 25U1, i- lOMH :57(> A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY BOOK noon, S. 75° E. ; iHand of Pootory, N. 88" E. ; peak — !^ of Lantoe, N. 22" W. Current fince yefterday, NoUmbcr. S. 6V W. 22 miles. Light winds and fair. By obfervations made when Pedro Bianco and the Great Lema bore South of us, and correded by the watch's error in tlie Typa. their fituation will be as follows : Great Lema, latitude 22° 04' N. longitude 114*' 14' E. Pedro Blanco, ditto 22°i8'N. ditto 115° 06' E. They bear from each other N. 76' E. and S. 76•^y. 50 miles. i6th. The afternoon was calm ; but the tide being in our favour we drifted between the iflands and Lantoe point, incrcafmg our water from 10 and 15 to 25 I'athoms, when the point bore Eall three or four miles. We came to an anchor in 12 fathoms, muddy bot- tom ; Lintin Peak bearing N. 6° E. ; Lantoe Peak, N. 75° E. ; and the town of Macao, S. 88«» W. Lisrht airs for a fliort continuance. In TO 'HIE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. 37r In the morning inuftered tlte people and per- CHAP, formed divine fcrvice. Afterwards they were enjoined ^-^/-^ to iecrecy m whatever related to our voyage. The November, officers aiul gentlemen delivered up their journals and other remarks. u IVIodcrate breezes from the northward. At 2 h. the tide, which had run down 12 hours, flacking, we 'jjot under way and made fail for Macao. In our way we fpoke a fliip, called the Britannia, that had arrived from Port Jackfon, and now going to Canton. At dark we came to in Macao roads, in three fathoms ; and in the morning, having ftrong breezes from the N. E. quarter, we weighed and run into the Typa, where we moored in our old fituation. We found riding here the Duff merchant fliip from the South Seas, where flie liad left feme letters at the different iflands. 27di. By oblcrvatlons taken oi; fliore, N° 4c fliewed ") the longitude, - . I ii3M3'38"E. True ditto is - - "3° 32' 8" Difference, ir 30" By which it appears the watch has gone more re- gularly well than ufual, lince her rate was fettled in Tihofan harbour. 3 c Hemarh \ !4' 3? 8 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY n97- Novembeft Remarks o« the Japanefe and Corean I ej'els. The Japanefe junks Ave had the opportunity of ebferving were from three liundred to thirty tons burthen, and, without the fmallell variation, of the fame conftrud;ion. They have onty one maft, with a fquare fail of cotton ; and notwkliftanding they at times weathered upon the fchooner, we generally failed much failer. They were unable to tack, but. always wore in a very fliort time. They made ufe of iron creepers for anchors : and- their rudders were of the fame conftruif^^lion with the Chinefe ; and when at anchor hove up by a pur- chafe. m . The butt-ends and ftern were covered with coj)pcr to preferve them : and the opening in their ftenis is fomething fimilai to a ftjuare tacked veflcl ; only the fides are carried aft, projecting beyond it fome dif- tance. The hold was entirely open ; and they made ufe of tanks or ciflerns for carrying wi tcr. The mail was 2 compofed TO THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN, 379 rompofed of feveral pieces of fir, rudely made, and CHAP. Ihongly hooped togetlicr. I'lie floor, timbers, beams, J^!iL and main-piece of the rudder, were of oak ; the reft, Nove?T?bcr. of pine. "We never faw any that were painted. The Corcan Junks were of a large fize, with only one maft ; but we did not fee any under fail. Their boats in the Archipelago of T'Chofan-go were more Cmilar to the Chinefe, and particuhirly in their mode of navigating thcni. Tliey alfo made ufe of wooden anchors, which the Ja])anefe do not. 'J'heir boats had two maits and matted fails, but not extended crofs-ways, with bamboos, like the Chinefe. In the tx-ntie of lliC veifci tli(\v have a fn-e-[)lace, built up with clay in a fciuarc form : tlicy always keep fome fjre in if, for the conveniency of fmoking. They made ufe of no covering like the Chinefe tilts, but covered themfelves up with coarfe (hied grafs cloaks. The boats were built of fir, the fkulls wei-e eitlier oak or afii, and they appeared to manage them with Cnat dexterity. Some of them would carrv from 30 to (iO ])eople, and they failed very faft. ^i c 2 1 think m ! yeo A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY, &c. BOOK 1 think it unneceflhry to expatiate any more on the *— ^— *^ detail of our voyage, as it was continued to Madras November, through the Straits oi' Malacca, and from Madras to Trincomalay ; a track of fea well known to the navi- gator: thence I took the accuftomed paflTage to England, where I arrived in February, 1799» after an abfence of four years ; and fliall conlider my exertions as amply rewarded, if this journal in the opinion of the fcientific and geographical part of the workl (however it may furnidi little amufement to the general reader), is confidered as adding to the flock of nautical inform- ation, and communicating a more extcnfive knowledge of the glybe. APPENDIX, 382 ^ y. - <5 APPENDIX, No. I. H -)• t-. wi (^ «► i«^ i«^ft «<> 4^-*> n Vf» > 0 » •4- •^ > ". V? M ^ "^ •♦■ fOV? 4.^ "73 > ') 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 r« M N N c» •• n 0 n 0 ' ■> n 0 0 f> 0 0 0 0 o «_ f^i CO ^0 PO C^ fO ff^ CO ^^ ^^' ^^ ^^ »o »0 CO CO to •O CO CO CO — 10 — CO CO CO 10 «*> ^«1 .J Mri >*> ^rt - *t i*l HlM^^lrttH 3 CNr^ar ct^^o av?s5.>>»-7N ■> 00 " - Q 0 M ■« •rt - - 0 ■?» Jv rt h 1 - 1 I-. r-« r«x. 1- i~ r~ 1 - 1- I- » . oc /: 00 >i v; X 1 ■ «•• «2 CO PI 3 O ■A *«* , «^ . *■* -3 •—4 n or-- ori -< "h-a - 0 0 I-- *^ ■5 a^ CO «( CO rt ^ ^ 0 ^ N ri •<■ ^ w »0 0 J\ rt o _/ '* — 0 — 1^ to loX 0 0 ■X. CO 0 10 coo 10 0 !">» < •^ «% M CO "♦■■-•♦■ "1 'O CO •♦- >o C, M CO ■• 5 u CO 10 CO r- :> )0 ^ N 'o t- n vr 0 •rt 0 lo cf . :,> ei u •t- N lo »o CI •♦• ri c«-. -h« « » c -< s V •♦• 0 f^ -x -r t- 1-0 t-c c 0 i<^ In -t- «f- ^ CO CO •» _ ■0 a 0 16 t ■ 1 .>C < /. ;. Tj I . I - 1 - I - I - I - 1 • 1 . # 1 ^ 1 1 . 1 1 - 1 . 1 . 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 -0 NO vc -O - •~ 3 ^ (^ A *w 3 ^ o>> 1 l*» Ji I" t- 1 >o u^ "~^ - «r' ^.^ ^ ^ -5: •■'s: ^ ♦ O •73 tV :? .-^ D lO .-% d ^t"^ To"^ CO C4 r* f^ % > 0 ^ vj u CI c^. u c y •jui u 0 *-* i 0 ?• V- ® 3 1:;; -" 4 1^. ^0 > 0000 0000 Oi« lo 0000 -i- 0 0 0 •♦• >^ 0 u "S ►»- CO \.r\ CO - rt rt 'I rC -3 K- X ft •< rs cr. i>» M vO 0 Cs T* eo3«5 XX :> vO 0 v: r > '• >j *" t'l ko M I ■• ro i« <■< CO ri 10 •t-l- -^ r* c»-. •( »1 .. 1^ rS c ^ 1 ■ I-- 1^ «r> CO "H 0 VC •♦■ *»l 0 CN C. JV 1- •♦• Of 10 •<- Cl s •y: J ;^;rv^J^ c^^^c^c^ yy ■» cr. 1-- t - 1 - 1 • ■ • I V' ^; ^ vi 'a -J ■• ■li ■« M •rt *^ *• — . "*" ■~~" — — — - -^ . • •J c _. ^ c »-t < "000000000000 0 000000 0 0 0 '■^ 0 0 0 0 /ii iJ '6 ii "0 0 '^ f. <. - ■» 1- - 0 C c» r^ 0 ^ cr. CO cc, f| 10 to !/•> ,> -)• m. • VT • — ^ . '^ £ C4 .- PI l^ rr 1»> CI c« N n c# Cl CV, l<^ -t- •T -^ 1^ I*- ■ rt , ct fc, ft ^3 ^ 0 ■>■ 1^1 -VC 1^ ■^ M — (^ 1- U> CO IS _ - _ J :> V. !■- -t- — 2\ t- 10 CO ^ ■u c^:?^'>r^:^^^^^c^^^5c■c<;ao oc y ^; "***—. 0 -^ 000000000000 0 000000 0 0 0 0 0 n • z u A^ "C> •+ lo -t-o 0 co»C vr vC ■«»- 0 CO %£• H- Cl >,? I . v- -h 1 ■ V!> -t f. N 1 ., w u^ .x: ■^ en 10 CO C4 •>• iO CO CO CO 'i- c*", r^, -t- 't* r 10 - -1- ■" ct c^. Cl ri •,- Q 4-i t-( CO co\c -irv.' :c « 00 cc cc « 00 T. oz ■xi V. 0 ** fl C^, CO c^ c MNMr«r»r4CC 0 0 c>>o 0 C.X l»r 0 0 u "O r>^ = -t- "S -^ CO CO tr. tm -f- - ^ #v e> ^ "10 >o ^--co•^"+'■»^0 — o.< — VO •t CO l/^V? "f M a r-. M "•VC C ». L^ta '^ ■> g 4-1 ft-, co^ ^c^2C Vi cr rr TP V. -jt -c « IV -v: X ■X5 'n C> 0 :> 0 O A '^ "^ .r* .<■'— «?..rt.'*_.i -''_t:!_t'_':i_ N r4 c< i:» !<__'*_»' rt N to CO fO CO m ro O _. li ^« C4 ■^ U: c ^ -^ !— 1 G u o J3 »i. b .r; ,n ^ n CO CO '( OtV;. -< M >oV^ VC OS to« r-. c- vc 't o« CO "> ro M 0 C r-- »t at r f^ »^ I-. I - 0 f) OC I- OC VC OC (JO 0 vc. t- N «0 w-oc • r-*^ CO ft J-, »., r^ — -.- " " . -. " "- • •. ~ M M M M — — "" • • • • • t . • • • • t " "3 C rt S ; -c s: ji i^ :ii 2-i ?: ?; - OC 0: -to c/-,-»i 0 ■*♦ «• 0 •-■ 5: 0 -O -t-= ''• CO 0. -/; vc rj 1-- 1 - 0 - > ^ CO 0 OC CO *^ ^ ^ - ~ v. "* «r. vc 00 I- r - 1 - i/>iC 0 t^ 1-- o "J 'J o 0 2: ?:j,^ /r! ;^ ?: ?s^>' ^' A ii rr ^^.Z _ ?: K. 7. V.jr. '/. . r^ •w) tc ->• (•r. M rt « *^. -^SC vC r- 0 r- cc-o rt 0 7v •- ■:> 'O 0 rt rt 0 "^ c >T-( ■? OC- C ac 0 0 0 0 \C -t- N '0 cr» 1 - N "^ '^ ct ':^ r« »^ ■^ M » M — ■• •"*•—_ "rt re 4-J rt - « r! to 4 i^^' r-* X d^ ^ - c5 ro -r k^vC I - >^ 0 ') •^ cl CO 4- losi^ VC fT", M M »4 — Cl Cl rt ft C4 M C4 < 1 ^ -' to r- ' "^^ o o <3 «o 0 o 0 r^ lo 0 0 0 r N Ir *f^ CO re CO CO rf oi CO ce n 0 l-» c« 0 00 t-. m'* to CO CO CO " CO CO ot 0 ■«t- -n c» 0 ■ "rt ^^ ^ t- ON r X K O N h rt o c5\ APPENDIX, No. I. 383 ■< If. « TOO r«s e M»* » If. n 0 N N n O N o o o ClO M 00 "^ O O « I*" N (4 M M M o o o o o f^ fO 'O f^ to o o M|rl MM ••'« .<•») O > > «*> I . X I - »- » - r- CO 1-^ o o P v^ 1-0 0 o r- >30 Qy ^ 7' > r, o N N r* r< m fn "^ N en O lo O m en M- O Q C 00 o o o o ON > «»> i*» tr •*» « N J. t - X ;^ o r> ■TV ■> ■> o «*> ft N N N f*> • OgxQtn; '*'C~*?^^ K-.V5 S3 ~>0 o r^ en OS 0\ lr\ rf, J\ >c s; "O 00 I- o % O »n N tn N s sS* O O »n O O e« l/^ 1^ m .^ «J- ■" »ri Vr\ fn VTi \0 »C >£> ir> O o o o o o o in •1- o 0_^vr'Hi"i« oo»n f fn^ en "h — •-• 00 \0 u> T»^ ^ ,f^ ff f^ t^ Vn to Lrs l/-t 1^ ir\ U* o o o o o o o o e» O 'h'S •" r» •< et e« O Q N ««• en m O Lry m m «• q O ■> ^ <*• ■+ en O O en «*^ en m •9- NO 0 oO oW <^^ 2n=^ enw ^< 3 •♦■ I/- O 0 0 O 0 On CO N -t- 0 r^ moo en en M M N •♦• en « ") i/> Irs 1*^ ■'•* NT) o t O O o r> o "•. 1- NC en o ei el M •t- t •+ UN O >n cr m Ln er, ^ in "*• + ■<«- i^ ' O O "N o«^ •>*• o •+ e< ^ N In M \.r •* vo VI o -*- ■+ ■*• -I- 0 0 »^ vn M •^ Cn 3N O b 0 3 o -<• er - vr ■• ri f, •■I ■^ t ~ i^> fn .- C V. V- 0 0 O «nON *0 0 <» c in O 0 o o o o o •4-NC "■ » » il O tJ en H r - »n M m -. iT 00 O \r\ ir^ tr\ t^y \r\ ^ -.■ ') o o O O •J- en '■ en •*- en NT O O O O O O o On en en 3n On en On tn en M e» •: -1- •)- •!- en "■ "t- -1- •!- -1- C O O O O O 0 O O O O O N vooNOONOen o-f-m-i-CNt-^ NC NC N.- I-, t-ar cc r> Q o - o 't ^ i/y Xr\ If^ vj^ J O O O •-. rl M T rf, r^ r^ r»* ^ »* >> > •O I- l- y' X Vi O in |-t ei '^ e< 4i^^' ll r< M C4 0 o r e« tr* en O %n GOOD OOO O OOOOOO OOOOOO NO O .) f^ •+• •+ r-^ « NO in NN — 'T e»-i- en OOOOO O O OOO'-. OO O "♦■•"•Nrocen V3 Cn -^-Mi-^.-;; NO 0.)f^-t- •J-t^- NO r4Ti->»en -♦- m m— •. i. -rn "♦• "t- "t-vi t^ 00 On 0000-"'i - nQm"" Me ON m tr« »*• en en vc ? OC try e* m "»• r<- L/s Cn>. c/: =: O » - 0 O en •1- o - c*-, u* rrj m M N m m en in en en en en «n »t- 'nNC «-- en en "• en en ON en On en o c> •+• en o - - f -f •<• e< N -—• ■^ •*■ •*■ e" N en •1- 1- -!- en en r<- >*• -f ■+ + NO •1- ^4- •+ •^ ■^ a O ". e« - M I- On On On JN VO en en O C NO ei t-^ — O C m e«-.\c ^ en M ON OC m '■1 en f^ rr*. i^ NO oc«>r~-l--*-'+ NO•^r-^^^ln'n rs n -t" ^h fs» rn r» rn "f- "^ •f f^» •e 3N r X *J r~ m cn N > OC en m in Z'ZTi'Z 00 'I- in 25 1^ •*■ r- 0\ •^M n m 11 "» N e»", <«- VC I'-Ot ON C* - e< e^. ^- ^no i". ■^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^6 ^z m %° (9 1.0 1.1 l^|28 |2.5 ■ 50 ■^~ Hl^B ■^ i^ 12.2 IL25 i 1.4 6" 1.6 \ . Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. M',80 (716) 873-4503 ^^ \ \\ ^% V > ;\ -^. ^^ 4^ z %° \ ?> .•^84 APPENDIX, No. I. o 1 Ov OS O o 3v :> N — - N "% \C Vsj i^ CO o vo fn ITS »o o\ o n o c\ cs M fO to fO m «OfO a V! 00 1/^ ^/^ O ^00?\0000OJs VC VO V3 vo *o o l«1 (T\0 fO -f O r* r- l,\0 O O to ro r^— NN0 10NKWNN-+- rn so t^ i-^ i-^ t^ 1-- r^ t^ I ^ 4 ^ i-^ t -- vo 01 >• -> n o o o « to ro t.-; 0 + 'ovc • 'o >o lO lO O LOC O O »— fO (N — 'T •*- 't- r-- ^ •i- ^ ("1 lO »-> N r^ CO U ^ ro t^ lA CO 'f- i^ )55 o ro rj *o -^ CO -t-to tJ. to CO CO "O ro CO to rr, c-> CO w t o O bii 0 c o 0 O ^ Jj u ^ t; 1^ •o O O tf "Vi lO O 1/^ C' N -< c c 0 o O O Ov T lO to lO 'J- t-« •-• lo to ro — r* CO lo VO CO O CO 00 CO 0\ O O CO ro ro CO O lA O « ^ CO OC O C\ CO CO CO f. O lo 0\ •^ "4- CO CO •-4 «o r^ »o >*- •oOO O C\ •&■ CO O >'^S0 ') CO ^ M -1- -1- c< <^ OO CO ^oo to CO "v-l tv» O o o CO N ■^ to c»-i CO M O O O O or »< I ■ N •^ r^ CO '-^ \r\ vo U-^ ^ *0 CO CO CO f) O M CO : 0 9 0 O •o CO tcTo a o o o •§ 2:; o "co to o vo 1-^ •4- » vo bc so O O O O O O VO CO t- CO VnVO vo CO CO CM CO vo Ov O O OX cr *j- lo vo •+ -t- + O O O O O O O O vc « -< CO ■<*- CO vo ■^ $ *^ ^ n^ *i^ ^ ^r__ o o o o o o ir-- :r\ cv c^ t}-o c^ CO r* lo CO Cvv 1-- r v^ •1- -i- •*-•*■ -4- :}: t- o o o o o o -< tJ- i/~ CO coO "^^ ^ + •*- 'O "- •- 4 'h'*- ■<*- 'i--*- o G t-^ r» c< fcfc o "S lo ',«-. Ov CO r^ -1- O covC t^ N ■+ CO n I- M •t 't- -*• oooooooo CO O >H vo oc - CO 'O N to ro M -• O CVX t-~'~ -i- •*- -4- •+ CO CO CO CO O O h-t CO 3000000000060 '^ "n (in .t; CO l-ri-NVO — lo>o«t->H loOvt-^ cocoto ►"to'+ioco'j- co -ir CTvoo cc 00 r- t-~vo Vo to -1- CO N CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO ro CO CO CO O O « o CO N — CO CO t; 0 0 o o o Pr* C^vo "-I O f" CO ro N CO I- f< CO p» -. CCJ c^, r<>, rt~i 0-) 000000 00 CO '..^ to 1 t^ Cn to Vo '4* 't' r* CO vo to n v^ -H t- V- "■- -1- 10 10 "t- 'o "+••+• CO CO CO CCJ CO CO CO CO CO CO O _ CO — CO •^ J CO J O ^ oc > .. 000 •+- -h vo CO CO CO vc — Cv « -4- vc lo CO CO >o 000000000000 tJ-co"-i Cvcoc< r^O toVO O ■+ Ni VoNPjTh 11 NN ■+•^■+0 roroN >N I- •-> 1- " cocorocococococococococo 0 0 r-. CO N I*- - 0 CO CO f' ■ 0 000 « -+- 11 V 'i-ro-f OVOO t-- ^-lO M vo •+ 'O eo « i-i M* CO CO 0 0 0 0 CO CO »^ ■+ CO to ►- ►- CV -i- 0 C« CO t- to w ro '*• ■+ CO r< « 0 - c< CO CO CO ro CO CO CO 1 - ' "^ ' 0 ;, •■ -0 0 '>> CO CO CO •i- oc t-. I ■ O O O vc -« CO t-. rO "I «,i-,voioOr~- vo '- ■+■» i7\ - 10 t^VC N vo VC — CO •<*' ■y-j -^ >-c CI oc. Vr\, «- ^_^ .. • ?: y w ?: ^ w w?:?:^?;?: ?^ > i- >■ f- .— r' 5 CO vo c» -< ac c» vo «o "t- - ■+ 1 vo vc N CO 1-- t^ r^ Vo to 10 t^cC CO vo N L^ CO 0 73 tA3 x cr v: 2. ^ C/5 :/3 w: cc /C in v; X cc '■! ^ V >^ ^ \ X cc x; ro vo . •:. <■:, Lc vj Tj- CO l-VO o o r~-cc vo O Tt- I- M vc ^ C\ 'o CO f>. •- C vf CO vo c< •^ vo I— CO Vv; OD vc. w ui ^ pi ?s ^ ^ ss ?: ?: coco— O-'-iVO >-i Cvc< ceoc Lnivocoi^vco^ /^! ii cr '-/:' !^. r/' v^' cc cc Ji I^ t/: - vo CC W^ ■«• t/ vo J MJ v_. o iVO.S "fS;^ "*• O v^ cr> N vo y:. -SO N ■+ OS t^ CO C\ O vc oc 3S O '>5 r< r^oo 10 CM to >-i ■ O vc ~ 'O -l-vC 'OCC Cvvo •*- C?\ oc I- T^l- OvCvvovot^CC ■- o •+ Cv -^ t-Qcr-MOcor--r»»"tot^'" CM CM C4 -CM CM vovo i^oc C7V o >- •- (M CO -t}- tovc r-Wj N r< N M r< CO CO Cv O 1- CM CO ^ tovc • It C> O •- N >*■ "*■ -< >o r- t~ot • lo l^ t^vo ►- I-. N ^ ro -t r)- Tt- ro tI-OO |^JCJ/3JC_CC CO OC vo ro cv t-00 N 1--0O o o N N fM ro *-• o o +• r~ PO 4 N •*■ 4 ^ o ri CO f) »^''^ M in I- O in c/3^ APPENDIX, No.r. SSj ^ < O 0 0 o o 0 o 1 -• ,-) n f-i .1 « eo ro c^ en CO ..T - r-t- ♦— — ro +■ 1^?-'??-.- r-e?.v?|- CO O >- ■-■ 0 0 1 •4 O 1r 0 o K1 fO . 5 (=« .■>i 0 0 5 n 1 1- 1 ^ O CO N to -r ^ I^' N N ■<♦• o o « ro N ro ^ 1; 0 OOOOOO ooooo ::. ti !^ "^ o <» vc i-^ ro iM « o o to t-v - o o o o ■IN CO CO lO O • o 4: 2 u 00 o 0 a ^ 'o 3c :c O 0 • VC »o-^ "♦- to u O 0 '^ o lo cf ^ CO H- .1. .4. 0 ^^ CO o 12Z O ♦♦ !►. N t>< .£ N r< N »o »o o OOOOOO o-oo OO OOOOOOO ) o o o o o o ooooo ^ lo PH '^ (-* so '^ ■I "H ^ »0 r)- CI N ' O OOO r-. r^ 1-^ ' fO N N N N rj »o M r^ O CO >0 C^ (-1 CO »o lo >+ >+■ CO c^ r< r\ N (-( 0 0 0 0 O '-' M TJt N M N rj, M c< ri t^ o o ooooooooo O 00 30 O OC CO N t>. O '^'-» NCOCOC>»M _fL.f«_N^j5_5« r» N S J5 o o CO N CO OOOOOOO ^ N O « Ir, to C\ "^ N N CO lo N V »0 CO -f- •+ ^ 1^ ^ . f< f> N N f» IN N^ ' ' CO 0 *. -o O c^ CO CO CO o £ o o CO U. M CO r-fcc to CTn CO *r^ 'o CO 1 VO £ UTN ^. -f. M C* iv| f^. o CO o 0 ■+ •O l,^ rf- M IV5 pp c) -, r, r, P' "^ 'I c) c< , 00 CO »>♦ O O to O CO to _H c^ ■ -< >o t- t~» lo ■ lo l^ t^*0 « c< t-- -1 VC to r^ ^(ils '^'^ ^ »o^voj?,t:;J; O O CO ■+ •*■ to t^ CO »o O to O r^ to c<-. I/., P* N CO lo o g Cvfctt 00 c« loO O N O H, M M ^?^vo C^ WWWW .WWWW WW WWWWW CtJ t^ t^QO CO (0 ■+ O OS CO -- CO CO u^ptj 00 t^vo CO i>l ,^0 l-oo O O H^ N N N ,^ r^ t^VO 'O'^ t- coco ^ T^vo VO L1-, Vp i-< CO tr, »^ f,, i_ to VON •+VO00 l<^ M »; »o n- >o\6 t^oo' o\ MM MMMMHJJcV APPENDIX, No. T. 9. I- n O CO jl. y. zt. J' >; -o X ^j ^j 00 "^ ^ N ■+ f. rj- 00 cc oc 00 cc :io ft N T^ PT -^ tJ- -. 00 ^ oo -x 5. -X. v: - ^ -J- +VO i^ u^ »A fo ^ O N - '^. >"'X,0CCOJ'J>iX:>0XXX!5O0O0O l/> ro lo CO M 30 CO "^ •t' CO 00 00 «i- >.^ ^ -1- -t- in c/i 00 X jc 00 on i^ '^ N Th i/> fo CC 00 00 00 00 00 o o o o O N - O r, 1-^ .--vo c- M N CO N fO OO C\ JN ^ O CO OC or.'. 3C X O 00 00 o o fn -r -h O O O ono«nOo-3cooo -t- lo to ^ ■ f e»l N In "^ -t- "> M o OC cc or CO :y -/: X ^c oo 30 r- t - I ~ r-' O O 00 CO t~- »-- r-- r-- O O O o o o cc.i t-~so "> "^ -h o b b b a a O O O O S »0 CO ^ J N M N — u to r^ CO CO -^ o-n o :b c b o o N 4- t-~V3 '1- o o o t^ CO C\ o o -< N N O O O in O O O "^ O 'o o O CO CO CO O O U^ tr-, >o CO *s I- N -t-^ I- N IS Ct M M rO-rl-co-- 'N C\ c> ~ - - - - N M CO CO CO cr, fo < c ooooooooo NO--- C^O O •+ CO « -. c) r4 lo CO CO o NNNMr-* — — — — OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO ^t-»rj-— CsO 1-1 coo 'nr^Tf-r-cocoinO ^^ O "> lO "+- CO .^ N lO m N CO «*• CO CO lo N rt- •^- loV3 1^00 C\C\0\3\— >-■ co + rl-t-^OP C\0 OrNV. CO »,««-—-, — »,C»NC •1- CI r4 -1- CO -1- Lo lo CON ►l^- NN MMM •MNCINNNNM Cs N i^-n to, In 3\ CO m w-v to c) M p< OC co >o o •^ -s i -- -^ lo •-• c* tn CO "* N 1^ cY% -1- -' ■ ■< -t' -h -< CO »n — N CO CO CO •*■ In In tn in invc VO >0 t ~ C\ O "- "i N 'i N M N C4 N N N N f» N C< rt W N N N CO to CY-. ro C) b b > o O X O -^ O "^ 0 CO f". N *- 1 ^ CO CO CO -■J- CO 'n vn N M — — •-' N — 'I CI PI M N N C< o o CO CO in N O C> CO 'n M ■ In r^ CO O • N CO CO • O O O O O O O OC »n ri v~ ri »h "♦* r-' c* C> "i" — lo — co»-'C4«-tinn'in"^ — — — in tn^c ^ \C vo r^oc n N N N n f4 PI N N_P< M tS 0> CO CO CO CO CO ^-^ n >n OCT. O CO 00 o p» N In ;^ In in ^ •4- Th •i- m CO Th N CO CO -t -f <• ^^ „ „ ^ „ N CO CO -+• •*• + -(- t~ y. CO C'l to CO t<"; CO CO CO CO Ct CO CO CO -n O O to m • o O O 0 >n o O 0 0 r» 0 T>- .^ •+ O I ^ '^'X p> ■50 O cc O ■+ o •- ^ — In W m N CO CO m -f T N N PI M p> N CO CO ■+ •^ rt-'t r^ or CO CO 'O CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO o o + "*• O- O 0 O In In In Tt •«*-'*•->-•* a o o o In in m. cj O Cs o o CO CO CO . 0\ 0\ O CO CO CO ^ m w^ Th c •n -/: ty: -y. y: x 'n o p* f- "■ -t -*• -re 9« N CI M cr. .- l-l N CO "t- ' -OC C> O >-■ N CO •^ in^ I-OC CS P< CO ■ N N N CO ►< M 1 O — N '4 M N CI PI c< o o -• M «. r- 0 o-/^ vo cr> Oi r^. m r-""/:' rr\ rf-. O CO 11 er> to O '- o t->\c vo M|rl M'fl MJfl O 3> CT\ vo -t- N VO n <.o '/-, i^ O ^- \0 vo vo so vo u> tn 0:0 VO vo vo VC ^C vo O ix> r-co N VO u\ 'n vo "1 I'^O O V!> O 00 o o o o LA O O O o + N -J- (r\3o rt-vr >/-. lr> fO ^ ft 0000 o'^oo"v"> 000 ^ «+• ix N i>-i -1- t-, r<> ■rf o- M Tf-» Cv't->-rNr^" voon r-. 1--VO 'o '/--*- m N *j' JO C VO vo VQ vo vo vc- v^' crj CO l-~- lo o t; o o t: '^ H -4-; •- , IJ rl-OC O CO , 1^ c«^ = CO N lo c u, »o : ti^ L>^.« v^^ w o t; o O ^C 11 '< O '-0 '^ 1 - VO VO 00000 CO to N r< i^ I--CO 000 PO to to '•I- rj- 0 o H-'h >o O o o O "v I-- O ■+■<*■ O O -*- o o o 0000 O to >-■ r» « O -I o 0000 o o 11 to -■ tor -• N M N " rt- ■+ -i- + ~ Ov 000 o, o ^ -t-i- O O - O 00000 ■+ CnX cc O r) to CO — -' to to CO rj- ■+ 00 O O o c c o Iri lr^ Ki ^ r^- -i -( lo ^rl--t'*- •>*--+'!- -f •+ t - X, Ct CO CO CO ---% a o o o vO OVO O li^ Ll-^ u*. M O C\ 3v O CO CO CO ^ 0000 C\ "-1 O cx> CO CH '-' ^ rj- T»- Tf- o o to -h Tt-'J- o o Cv CO 000 ■*■ 'I- r»- o o O O o o M Tj- »o 10 0000 rt-OS ^1 O O a:cc -r ^ 000 0x0 +0 en CO l'-^ -+- If ^ rt- ri- r,or CO CO cr-, CO CO Ov Ov O .! •TO CO CO ^ -TJ CO •- -^ •- ■+ rj- Os '■(- -^ -t- ■>*- -^ -t- ■+ "*!,'+___:*"_ to Tf- -t- T vc Ov -J"*- VO tt •+ N 10V.O vo 10 . I c-i r» CO ' in •+ vo ec o •» -+. vc -J- vc c»- >- -^ c-, O COC 10, rf VO •* ON -+0 t-- •-« vo 00 -H >-t OV O -• W «*^ I bc WW, o « - -c 0. t< - -*- rr i^^ I - r^ CO I - to ^-^'ir M - -o I'N O rr; lv», <^ rj- COSO c-j a^ o -' ^ 1-^ vo I -00 t^^ H« CI M M t-*- t* or CO .5 ^^ ^W »o t^ -+- + 00 -+- CO M- ^'^ ^2: js ;^z;?; i^; 3i^ »A vo l->00 o> W^ vo N "^/C Y. N O 3 l^ V3 cc v: CO i»^. vc >^oc o o 38a APPENDIX, No. L E o u u ,1 I - 1- ■^ vt ■o 1 . t r , c VC D t VO Mitl ^- VO VC 1^ vn 1 a 00 i-' «^ I-- 0 1-. t-VO VO V VO t VO r-' I ■ N « V3 • 1 ■JO VO ■«!- o o 1 • o 1 ■ •Z o I rr ■O VC VC5 V\ I-^ VMr, tJ-VO C^'-^ VO VO VO VC- VO ^C VO i ^ 3 4>^ o o O o M "a, < O n n CO O < O ent O "-1 t- >-, 1 o O r-i o 1 1 CO u o (-4 0 o to O CO «o ' ) ) lo O lo "<- CO CO tS M J- ■>4 $ ^- •t- -t- '■a -1- «0 CO .-4 ^ ■1- CO CO Cv O 0\ i/> rt- r-^VO to ™ 11 « «-, ri S_ r4 f-o W1 _ :r_ $ t -..? t_ c-^ $ -*- •q- VO -r s ■O -f r^ •1 -, CO CO CO CO CO CO •^ -^ t -i- -t •»■ .D ■:> o vr. -y o ^o -t- -t- ~-, ,^| to O * H|» I'- C^ O ve VD VO VO c> r^ \0 VC VO »A ■^ N — O >o O N 8 C^ 11 V M CO CO CO CO _■+ -r 'I- r3 O^ o LO o <^ CO ovO »r -U < be c O C.1 o o o o o o "^ CO uavo Lo Lo CO N O Cv CO C'-* CO CO CO CO OOOOOOVOOO <>• Ovo O O -^ O yr\\j-\ CO <*! -f- CO c< >" vo VO 'lovO ro 'o lo -i- -i- c» cococococococococo 'oty^oOOOOOO CO CO CO CO n O O CS CO CO ts COVO 00 oc o CO ^ n ri O o< ooo ac CO C! C-* N IN O O '/^ lo o o •4- ^ 'r CO O « i,~ ci -i O •^ i-i n CO lO W O Cv*H J\ O C3\ ro fvj CO •-4 CO CI *-0 y •o'j O O t^ CO •■»- " CO VO VC VO CI M CJ f o o o c «o * r^ O I ct CO »r> - 'o •+• CO c CI c« M p CO «o CO o o CO CO O 0 «o VO 00 00 CO CM •■f CO CO lo CO O O N *" lO CO "-I to 'i- CO CO O O 0\ r^ 1 't- ct O CO to »o 0\ VO lO to *o O O O r- O to 00 o> C\ c^ d r4 CO VO cs 0 VO i/^ if> '/> C4 N M C4 C4 C4 CJ < O -9 T"^ o o "X .CO to to O Ov to o o tr^ 00 o CO o o coca CO Co to 1 - CO t- CO CO CO n to f^ "^ -1- ■+ •+ -t- CO CO N CO CO CO to CT) CO CO •1 Tf. lo to O O c»l C* cr, w H- CO O 1^ r--. -1- lo CI CO « to M ■+■+•♦- CO CO CO CO CO cr. CO CC> "O o o o c •^00 VO o ■+ «o -" c< •J- »0 CO M C| CI C4 CI 0 O o o O c\ "o «« CO CO T| »^ N - n CO c*"^ CO cc VO t-- CO t- C^ C< CO C*" «-• N >- VC CO "l- Tf ■M r» 11 « _CO CO CO CO V3 O CO n NO ih c<-, -t ■>*- I VC rt- CO O •-< 'o 1 covo 1 N cj c« to C4 c* -.VO O VO w CO « t}- W c/:, :-0 w CI i • "t- VC CO c/; w !^ WD t/: CO •+- G CC O) u. f^ K- "-"•-' I^ M* l< CI Oi CI OC COVS 0\ O- V4^ »o CO cc.vc CO m ^ t/; ^'/^u: cc c/: cc to Cv O n 1*- to « i •«, o\ CO »t- lo>C oc o> '* CI N t-l f* N C< > r- 1— K- P» Ov lo Cv O VO to vooo w w CO 12 ; 0 ^ »-* r^ tTi m > o z APPENDIX, No. I i^m V. \0 t vo VO >0 'O \o y vo VD vo »-Vfc vo v:. i-, v^^2 v^vo vij" vo Cv r-. o i~. I- r, „ vo vc vo i-^vc vo vo 1 - ''V "'^V I VO or so (J N P) fN •^ O N ■» VO J^ t-^VO I WIN M*N MIM •JA t--VO N ro lor) o ■ t- 1-- l-> 1^ 4^ vo ,., ^ O M >- i« N V> CJ\ t- t- O Xi I-. i-~so t-.\o N vo J^ f^ «o O lo 1 ^ o p o o u o n lA lo 1^ J ^ o o 8 Cv I- vo vo >^ 0 2 '^ '^ ^ f' v'2 O !2 !J? ^ !r» 1 n. 2_ ^ '^ fJ « o - "J ~ "^^ «~ ro m m r^l ^ ■* ~ — ."t 1- •* ^ ^ o o N N -. — ^-» «A 0 o "^ + ^ 0 r- CO •^ »aV0V3 •*• ■4- * o «^ VO vc vo M M N Q U O O IS Ov -h to M lO vo lo v^ "> M )-ii-.Nr<-»- 'o-+-fOcoN tn 'i- ^ Pi r« M N N w n M O O O O O r-o N CO vo t - ,>c« N ^4 r-I M •i-lO-ifO'l-lolO-CO'^ -i-^ -i- *r> rrt t^ ft n cO'+'l-iot- 's ri r< r< N M M ri (s (^^ ri O O O CO ro -h to CM "M N ooooooooooooo oeoo 00 00 fO CO '^ 00 l^* CO -^t- « oo r-vo i/^ r^ f»j t*4 »^| CO O O C) O O O O 0 O O -^ -^ - O Ovao vo M "1 -I N _. „ „ o •o O J ►^ o lo -H •lo -t- ocr: r- X' vo "I r-4 lO W. CO T(- *£ ir "*" '^' '^ -' 0^ CO ir, :t o o o "> Vo' CO cs ^f- ix f, ir( >0 N O I O O 0 o -V 1 - CO t- CO 1 u^ f^ -^ h ■+ CO CO p< ^ to CT) CO ro ooooooooooc o o O c^lo«^^/^o ■+— OvLo-J-oiy; CO rr vo N ts t}- u- M + o~, 4- 'MN— '-«'-*rl o o o o o o o ■J N oo ^ cox vo COVO N ^^ ■+ ■^ fX-ro-.i-.co-i- O Ovcc t~- >0 N N N «- I-- O VO VO lo >*- _CS^- CO ~ -)- t~ ■^ CV» •*- CO 0 O ■N CM •-< 11 — N CO CO CO M 11 — o _CO CO CO CO CO CO CO to CO CO CO CO CO •O ro " O vc CO Cv ^- O r^ O c^.vc yi « vo O ' 'r'*-voc - CM tJ- Vo i, CO CO -f O ■OO'- cr N N ioU3 i-i vo t-, *^fM CO— CM n ^*"'5 loco N . 1- '^ V^ vc lo '^O <^ CM f« CM r4 N N CM M CM vl « lo •- covo r« to N N »i w' ^ k; OC rovo C\ ^ CO cr.vO CO CO c/: cc r/2 MO CM CM co^-l/^0 -l-co r-.«o « •t- lo •+ CO •l-.C t- N f* — t^ i^ i^ C\ lo Cv O >o — CO I-, . lo CM o 00 vc to loco i~-vo ^ ^^\y^ covo OC — CO ^ Cv t^ T ■+ >0 0\ Cv t^ cooo LO lO •^ t^vc r^ Ov N »o — vc vo \0 t-- Lo CNOC fe S: =: ^ > > > »-* I-' h^ 1^ K- P* r- l-vc »ovo f, o I-- t-- 1-- ij- j^oo in lo :^' cc' CO :z :?-. /^ /g :g c/5 y: :g '.A_jn oc a: w c/: :/: c/f ^c' ;2 ^j^' O TOO K'P*?^ r^ t~- o VO »ovO w CO y) CO vo r OC CN H H IM M o «-! >i N CO "0 r^o& o\ 6 CO CO O — CM CO "+■ lo vo *^ ►^ I^ HH — IH — vo l^ oo OV O — '■! •< - N CM IM CO 4 lO CA CM (1 o C 390 J A P P ]-: N D I X., No. II. Vocabularies of the Languages of the Iflands of 1n6U, Lieuchi- Eux, and of the Natives of Chosan, on the Coafl of Corea. Specimen of the Infu Laiigm gf- Arkee, Come licre. Sherima, Make hafte. Appeafs, To walk. Horopfce, To drink. Tambcnc, To enquire the natrc for KacUniia, A two-handed fword any thing. ^^^^gafaf^a, A one-handed ditto.- Pcnzy, A (l>ip. Ka, A mulket. Enacoofh, Dried coJ.fifh. Shoomotza, A book. Koo, A bow. Yewbce, The finger. Kooka, A bowllring. O yewbee, The thumb. Ay. An arrow. Siiinee, The leg. Eckyoop, A quiver.. Momo, The thigh. YcwknciTia, Deer-H{in. Oondee, The arm. Atoofh, A frock. Nagayewbec, Middle finger.. Aflvippi, The finger. . Gedah, Sandals. Creak, The beard. Ttnoogambc, The wrift. Mceinack, The teeth. Kame, Paper. Shoo, An iron or copper pot. Enoo, A dog. JvlafTacarce, An hatchet. Nccko, A cat. Oikyo, A man. Vfliaffo, A child. Mtanako, A woman. Koodge, The lips. Haat, Grapes. Affee, The foot. Soom, Fiih oil. Olongyfe, The chin. . Hipparec, A bear. Meemec, . The car. Chucaup, An esgle. o, Yes. Siirrancep, A baflict. Ny, No. Ya, Fifli net. Karnu, Hair. Matjddce, A knife. Fooni), Ship. Tftiterec, 'I'obacco pipe. Tinima, Boat. . Ktecham, A Japanefe. Tcha, Tea. Kanzce, An oar. Sado, Sugar. - Wj>ha, Water. Tabaeco, Tobacso. [ 391 3 APPENDIX. No. HI. Specimen of the Language of the Natives of the Lieuchikux Iflands. It is a Dialed of the Japanefe, with foine few Chinefc Words, Mizoe, Water. 'ii)T. A dug. Shircc, A tobacLo-iiip'' Chillir, A frock. i\roe," The «yc. Myo, The eye-!. iij,^'. llaiiiia, The Hole. Haa, The teeth. Karatzec, The hair. Timma, A boat. Mcemce, The car. Yccobce, The finger. X^oya, A cucumber. Mo, Sweet potatoes Hoonee, A fliip. OoflV, The fun. Kance, Copper. Koodgee, The mouth. Ona, The hand. Kapa, A hat. tibe^, Afoot. Specimen cf ihc Corean Language ufed at Chofan. Ilannnli, One. Toool, Two. Koe, Tlnec, Doc, Four, Taffali, Five. Yclfah, Six. Yerogo, Seven. Yaltni, Eijrht. Aho, Nine. YfLl, Ten. Huh, The Sun. Tareme, Moon. /l i:J 'jap^ru it Si r. h 6. 7. 8, 9. J.ipnnefu Stoxecr Statze, Mitzce, Yeatze,. IilotzeCi Nitare, Nanatzce, Jo fee, KokunitZ) Toe, L\euch\»ux, i>t tz, Statsj Mil/., Yeatzc, Itfeitzy, Nil z, Nanatzy, Ycatz, Kokoiiit;:, loc, Infu. Slieeucap, loo. Liep. Eenep, Ewati. Arrawan. Toopilh. Lepifli. Wanna, SOME VEGETABLE PItODUCTlONS OF INSU. T/}epknts marked thut (♦) arc cultivated. Vitis viilpina Artimiliu mantifna vulgaris Pulyponiini viviparum •• Polygon iim inultifloriitn ■ — I other fpccirf Ti;licum liiaritimuir. * Ocerrnii;: crifpum Mintiin aqiiatica Pvilypodiiun vulgart — villofuin Acrofticimi trifoliiiluir. Betula ainiis- • alba Pcniiis, abics Quercus, i fpec. chefiiut-leaved Fraxiiius nigra Tnxus baccr.ta — '— rucifera Ulmus catnpeflris Populus balfamca. Magnolia acuminata Hydrangea arborea fcantlcns, 2 var, a new fpec. Itubus, 3 fpec. one furnilhtJ wiih blue Trichomane-;, i fpcci'.j iVuil, the other with a calix that is fur- * Alliim or cLivea ni/Iied with red glandulous hairs, the Fagiis cailanea third fptcies is poflibly the nibus in- fylvcllris cana of Thunbcrg Chxrnphyllum fylvcftre- Rofa po,T.ifera, piobably the rugofa of Lamiuin album Thunberg * Phafcolus I'ris, I fpec. «-Zea mayc Morus papyrifera, with fnrall fruit Rhaphanus Lnpatieus noli mc tangere Conrithe, with blue flowers- Vitis Japonica Liclica 3, APPENDIX, No. III. Bryum Oicliis, 1 fpecies Jiiriipenis fabiiia li'iucffti'm liicmale .iyy Eqtiffttum arvciife Jiiiic'118 lylvtilris CytifiiH, with wliitc flowers refeniblmy the laburnun SOME VEGETABLE PRODLTCTIONS OF THE LIEUCHIEUX ISLANDS. Canna indica Curcuma loiiga Criiuim Armticum Amaryllis ]^iixii3 fempir vircni Icius, 2 fpccics * Citnis limonca Gi)rypha umbrae ulifera * Chamaerops cxcdfa * Ozajea Indica * Carnalea fafanqua * Coiivalarea Japanica SOME VEGETABLE A/alca Japonica Pinus taeda Riibiis, I '"pt'cies Campanula, 3 (pecics Allium, I ipecics liyacintliiis Polypodium AcluoiUcum trifuliatum Vitis vulpina ♦ Rluiphaiuis, ilie turnip rooted * Cucurbita, fcvcral varieties. Rofa, I fpcc. dwarf and trailing liryonca * Millium fativum Pinus ' Qiiercus * Amygilalus pemca *■ Neeoteana tabnccuin Draeona, with blue pendent flowers, the fame as found in New Hullanci Cucumis, X var, * Solanum Malva Uhnus Tuffilago root, eaten by the inhabitants PRODUCTIONS OF COREA. Atriplex Salix, I fpeciw Deanthus arvenfu Gallium V Serratula ^ Plantago major Convolvulus Polygonum, 3 fpecies Artemefta, 3 fpecies Juuipcrus fabina Lichen I^yfematkca I'arnapia paluilriE THE END. 3E LIST OF PLATES. 1. A general Chart of the Japanefe Iflands, and N. E. Coaft of Afia • - - To face the Title. 2. Charts of Thefan Harbour, Napachan Roads, Endemic Harbour, &c. - - - - Page ^^ 3. A Man and Woman of Volcano Bay - . pg 4. Japanefe Boats - - - - 140 5. View of Port and Cape Nambu, and Ifland to the South of the Entrance of Jeddo, &c. - - - 141 6. ViewofNipon, Volcano Bay, Endermo Harbour, occ. ^04 7. Chart of Great Lieuchieux . - - . 223 8. Panoramic View of the Harbour of Napakaan - ih. 9. View of the Ifland of Koomefang, Entrance of the Har- bour of F. Choufan, &c. &c. . - - 232 wmmmmmm