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The post of tl film Orifl beg! the sion othi first sion orii The shal TINI whi( Ma^ diff« entii begl righ reqi; met This Item is filmed st the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film* au taux da reduction indiq j* ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 28X 30X V □ 12X lex aox a4x 2tX 32X Tht copy film«d h«r« hat b««n r«produo« THB NORTH-WEST COAST OF HUDSON BAY Alfn OK Two overland routes from Hudson Bay to Lake Winnipeg J. BURR TYRRELL, M.A., F.O.S., 4c. rJlt;»^ 0»- •■.--• ^*. OTTAWA PRINTED BY 8. B. DAWSON, PRINTER TO THE QUEEN'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY ?^iM*^^^ ) 1807 H: •!% Price 30 eofUt. ^ '-- ,: ) iKiii cii,|i M Si \[\ h:\ Ml ( ' w \ii \. \'< I. '.Inh -MK IS'.i;!. • I. r.. '\'\ i;i;ki I.. I'lu.t,,. .Inly 'M>. |sii;f. llAliltKN <;i!orMt CAIMIKH f».\ IHi: s||»»I;K <)|' caukv laki: liiitiiiKl.' ti:' Id'. I -iti|,|c Kii' I,")'. O. M. DAW.SUN. C.M.C;.. LL.D., F. U.S.,, „„,,,,,/ PtE Poirr (>V THK BeMiisi, yz,« m nmm rubs AM) IHK NORTH-WEST COAST OF HUDSON BAY AN!) (>:»• r>ro orrrhind rout., f, , Ha,hon lUuj to Lake Wlnnip.y »T J. BUHU TYKKKLL, M.A., F.(i,S., occ. OTTAWA I'KINTED BY 3. E. DAWSOX. I'RIXTER TO TIIEIQUEENS MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY 1897 So. 018 561 ; i^'K-ii^ NORTHPN AFFAIRS & NATION « iJESOURCES JUL 18 195- Noil. f!rn Affairs Library 0 . . .V M I i (Jkok.jk M. Damv.n, C.M.(;.. LL.d,, y^n^., .Sin,_T b,.^ to ,.,..s«Mt H .v,.u.t CM tJu. ,«.ol„^y un.l general ro.uurc. . h.. n.«.on ..xpl....M in lS.j:iun,l 181,4, ....Lnu-e.! in an urea of al.„ut .0U,..O0 .s.,uar. nul.-s, lyin, n.rtl. of the .V..th parallel of latitu-le. and west of Jluds-.n Hay. The exph.ra.inns inelude.1 the exan.ination and survey Mt lel/oa or l)n..l.aunt, Ka.an. Ker.uson, Chip„,an and Coch- rane H.vers, Chesterfield Inlet, and ih.e coast of ilu-lsun l!av from thesterhehl Inlet to Chnrchill. and tw,. overland mutes, travelled in winter w.th do,if-tea,«s and sled-es, between Churchill an.l Nelson It 1 vers. That portion of the r.port f,Mvin,^ an account of ,he explorations c-arr.e.l out.n 1804 was prepared in the winter of 180:., hut the part u. the work of 189;J has been necessarily delayed because of the It-' arrival uf the rock-specimens collected. The surveys were originally plotted ot. a scale of two geo-'raphic i' .... es to one inch, and are now sh.. n om the .-.ccon.pan dag map i-educed tu a scale of twenly-llve mil-s to ..nc inch. The illustrations, chosen from more than 400 photo-rraphs taken dunng the explorations, give a better idea of the characteristic features of the country than extended descriptions. 1 have the honour to be. Sir. Your obedient servant. .J. B. TYRRELL. Ch-iAWA, 10th May, 1897. U N( I NoTi;. — The l» ,■'/,,■ /.< iIk friir „i',!dl,iii. * I Ti IC exii|i>ol>au Clu'stcr Inlet to to Yorl .Since fui-Iu'iir fur- trad tlie iliii to any h l«ink.s. a skins t'oi lrH< imr'ul'uiii. I lIKlM)IiT ON IMK AM' TIIK KOKTH-WKST COAST OF HUDSON HAY BV .1. miil; TVKIillM,. I vi'liir.itiuii. iNTi:(>i»rcTi(»N. Tlif |iir><'iit it|i<»it. .iiul its in.'ciiiii|>anyii»jf ninp. is the ivsult of two cx|ilonition.H iniide in tlie yeiirs 1.^0:5 uml isOl, the former ocoupyiiij^ eiglit and the l.ittfr seven months, countin;,' in each case fr«»m the time of our tlepiirture until tiie time of our roturn to civih/ation. The \ast \vil(iern«-ss thiuuijli w hich the line-, of ex|>h)ration passed, lies Kxf.nt foitlie most part in>rtli i>f latitude H'J , and e.\tenay, west wai'd to Luke Athahasca, comprising an area of not less t hall 'JOO.OUtJ sijuare miles. 'J'he work of tlie party en>bnieed a survey of the north sliore of Lake Athahaica, the (.aunt, Tldewia/a, Kazan and Feriiuson rivers, in whole or in pait, Chesteilield Inlet, and tlif shore of Iludsun Hay from Chesteilield Inlet to (.'ijurchill. a> well as a line o\erland in winter, from Churcliill to York Factory, and anotlier from (.'hurchill to Split T ake. .Since a larye p<»rtion of tliis region lies north of the country where fur-hearing animals are alnindant, it had not lM*en travelled over by fur traders, or even by vnyaueurs or Tnthans in search of furs, and the characters of the lakes and sireaiiis were, therefore, unknown to any but the few Indian anil Kskinm deer hunters who live on their banks, and who come south once or twice a year to trade wolf or fox skins for ammunition ami tobaccn. ('liiiiitiy liitliiTtii iiii> ktiowii. OllJHtH .,f i>\|ili>riitiut aKu the <|ue.sti(>n of the occur- rent'e of minerals nf value in i'. 'Die main ohiect of these two expeditions was to ohtMin some clear idea of tlie cliaracler of the rocks that underlie thi>< vast wiKlerness. While this object was con- stantlv kept in view, surveys were uuide <>f the routes followed, and ay. He acted in the capacity of topographer and llskimo interpreter to the ex[)edition, and in addition made a large collection of plants, a list of which is given in Appendix IIT. Ill Is'.l-t. both the geological and topographical work devolveil on the writer, but Mr. K. Munro-I'erguson, A.1».C io His Kxcellency the iJovernor (ieneral. who accompanied hi.ii, did all in his power to further the -'eneral objects of the expedition. The sextant, solar compass and chronometer, ^vit^ prismatic com- pa.s>ies and boat-logs, were the instruments chiefly emjiloyed. With them a survey w'-^ made of the north shore of Lake Athabasca, from Fort C'iiippewyan to Fond du Lac, where it was connected with the survey maiie in I >!'!': Chipman River to its source at the north end of Selwyn Lake ; Telzoa or Doobaunt Uiver, from its source in Ualy Lake to its mouth in C'hesterlield Inlet ; Chestertield Inlet; the shore of Hudson I'ay from Chesterfield Tnlet to Churchill ; Cochrane Uiver fioiii its mouth in Heintleir Lake to its northern bend; two of the u]ipcr tributaries of Thhnvia/.a Uiver : Kazan Hiver from its source in Kasba mi White Partridge Lake to a short distatice below Yath-kyed Lake ; Feigu>on River from its .source to its mouth ; the winter trail from Churchill to York I'actory , and a line travelled in winter from Churchill to Split Lake. The total length of these surveys amount.s to rather more than 2900 miles. I tf whicii 107.'^ miles, on lakes and ([uiet water, were measured with Massey's floating boat-log ; l.»ll.' were estimated by the rate of travel in the canoes ; ')\~) were travelled on foot, the distances being in part estimated, and in part determined by pacing. Of this distance 475 miles were tiavelled in winter, while 10 miles were travelled in summer across portages over which it was necessary to make thiee ur four tri[is in order to carry the canoes and cargo. r«iiiiEi.i i \ TiHREll J INTKOUUrnoN. 7 F not only the ui the occur- of these two nicler of the ijoi't was eon- follow <(i, and ohsci'Mitions ipulation, the 5 of interest. ^ W. Tyrrell, re of Hudson Conuiiauder 3 capacity of (i in addition in Ajipcndix 9rk devolvetl is Hxcf'Uency his power to ismatio coni- tiyed. Witli lahasoa, from ted with the lie north end iroo in l>aly t ; the shore hrane River two of the its source in V Yath-kyed winter trail winter from ■e than L^OOO ire measured the rate of Lances lieing Of this miles were necessary to :ar<^o. )rder t( iplish the abti .el I I I L-compiisii iiie aoove surveys it was necessary to travc GlOO miles beyond the lines (»f railway. Of this distance ;}S-»0 miles ■were t-ra-»Tlled in caum-^, 1'200 miles on snowshoes, while the remainder was pei'fnrmed in conveyances di-awn ijy d. Ft. Mt- Mnrr.'iv. Ft. CliifiK- uvaii. liejrili snrM Athuliusca. were occui)if'(l in ilostviuliiit; tbe river to (irand liajiiil^. A day wiis spent there, the .steamer liavini; in the iiiean time arrived, and during the 7th, Sth and Ittli of Junt. we descended tlie river to Fi>rt Mo- Murray, at the mouth of Clearwater lliver. Jlere we were joined by tlie two oanoemen from Ih? a hi Crosse witii an a(hlitionai canoe, and theiuoforwanl our party con.>*isted of eit,'lit men, all told, in three canoes. The latitude of Fort McMunay was determined as 50 42' r)C)". Aftei' some detention, we left this place on the morninjj of Iftth .Fune, and towards evening of the same day. we met the Jludson's liay Com- ]>any s steamer (r'ra/intne ascending the liver. Dr. .McKay, who was in charge at Fort Chip])ewyan. was on h lard. He informed us that he had employed a Chippewyan nanud Moherly to go with us as far as the JSarren Lands, that Moherly knew the mute well and would probably be al)le t(j get another Indian to acct^mpany him from Fond du Lac. (>n the afternoon of .lune 17th. we reached the mouth of the rivei', and on the evening of the same day crossed Lake Athabasca to F^jrt Cliip])ewyau. whei'c observations wci'e taken to rate the chronometer. Late on the evening of .lune I'Jth, the steamer (irahntnf arrived from Fort McMurray, with our supplies for the summer on board. The next day the steamer was unloaded, and our supplies, brought down by her, amounting to 220U pounds, were made uj) in proper bales for portaging, any stuff that wouhl be liable to be damaged by water l)eing put in waterprctof sacks. Letters, and photographs that had been taken up to that time, were left to be sent south on the ne.xt trip of the steamer up the river. On the morning of ■Jl>-:t .June, we left Fort Cliip])ewyan. with our canoes loaded down to the gunwale.s, and startt'd eastward along the north shore of I^ake Athabasca, and as Moberly was not able to travel very fast with his family in their canoe, we found time to make a fairly accurate survey, with solar-compass and boat-log, of the north shore of Lake Athabasca. While travelling along by the north-west shore of the lake, we met Chariot and a band of Indians travelling southward from thsir wintei'ing ground on Chariot River. We learned from them that there existed an e.xcellent canoe-route up Chariot l»iver, across a height of land and down a stream into the south side of ( Jnat Slave Lake, or. instead of descending this latter stream to its mouth, a portage could be made to another stream that flows into unknown country towards the north, probably into the west branch of Doobaunt River, the mouth of which was found two months later. TVKRElt. 1 SL'MMAP.Y OK PliOCKEDINOS. 9 F Twii ^l^ly^ wtic lost on tlio >liiiro of tliis lake on account of hij,'!) j-,,,,,] ,;„ i^.,p_ winfls. l)Ut on tlio nioniin|sjof .lunt- 29tli, we reached tlie now uhandnned trading,' post of Fond du [«ac. Hi-rc MoImm-Iv was to leave his family Avitli some of his friends wlio were campt'd on the south sliore. As so'iii ;is he reaclii'd ihi-ir eamji hi', however, hegan to oltject toproceed- inu further, and it was oidy after U)ng persuasion, and aftei- we had aitreed to hire, at extiavagant wa'.'es, a friend of his to go aloiiii with hiui, that we were able to induce liim to accompany us. Hut he jiusi- tisely refuserl to do any mor«' vork at the paddle that day. Accord- iiiLrly we went a coui'le of miles, ami camped for the niirht. The next (hiy Moherly. and his friend I'.eauvais, caujjht uji to us just before noon, and came slowly after us until evening, when we camped on a point nine miles west of the east end of the lake. Ctn the foh)wing morning we j)addled to the ea«t end of Lake (,.,,, „j,]p, Athabasc.i, where a couple of families of Indians were camped. Hfie I'-'vc us. Moberly and Beauvais, who had all along taken the jiost of rear-guard, rather than that of guides, went ashore, and lying on the Ijeach, refused to go further until we .slumld make a feast, distribute tlour to the Indians heie. and also leave some to be sent back to their families. AVith our limited suj)ply of provisions, it was of course quite impossible to accede to tliese demand.s, and we, therefore, left them, and proceeded up Stone Hirer, glad to be rid of tlie miserable fellows who hail alieady caused us so much delay, and had done nothing for us but devour our provisions. •July the 3rd and 4th were occupieil in crossing Woodc1< I-:ikf. Lake, at the nf>rth end of Klizd)eth jiortage. July oth and 6th, and the nriorning of the 7th, were spent carrying the canoes and cargo across Elizabeth portage, and at the same time, I made an examination of the heavy rapid north of the portage. On the afternoon of the 7th we paddled against a stiff head wind to the south end of the portage on the north shoi-e of JMack Lake, where we were lo leave the country that we had explored in 1892, and lo strike northward into the unknown L,nw territctry between Stone liiver and the Arctic Ocean, guided only ))va i"! 'm''"' " rude Indian map of the country as far as the head-waters of a stream tliat flowed northward ii !o the land of the Eskimosand tlie musk-oxen. On .luly yth, most of the things were carried across this portage, which is two miles and a third in length, and on Sunday, the 'Jth. the men remained in camp on a hill overlooking a lovely little lake at the north end of the portage. A dav and a half at the beginning of the succeeding week, were spent A-ci-nt nf ,,.' 1 • ^ 11 111^- 11 1 ('luiiiii;in travelling through a chain of small narrow lakes, lying m a valley be- lih.r. .0 (i O lO i:.. C^ \ 10 F DOOHAUNT. KAZAN AND FER'iiti(iii Doobattnt Lake. tween steep rocky ridgeis. On Tuesday afternoon we entered Cliipniau Lake, and the tiinc until the following aftpewyan Indi.ins camped near tlu! north end of Selwyn Lake, at the foot of a hill, on the side of which birch bark could be obtained sutHoiently large for canoes. These Indians ilid all in their power to liissuade our men from proceeding further, by describing the river ahead of us as being full of impassable rapids, and the country as swarming with cannibal Eskimos. ilowever, on tlie following day they conducted us to the north end of the lake, where there is a jtoitage, a mile and a quarter in length, across the height-of-land to Daly Lake, from which the river that we were destined to follow flows northward. The Indians wouhl not accompany us north of the height-of-land, and most of the remainder of this week was occui)ied in following the shores of Daly Lake, though for ot ■ day we were }irevented by high winds from launching our canoes. Shortly befon; ny heavy stoi'ins. During the remaining six days the n.irth-western and northern shores were carefully examined in the search for the outlet. The length of the shore-line measured was 117 miles, while the direct distance across the lake from the point where TV1WEU. 1 HL'MMAKY OK IMlOCICKIiIXi .S. 11 F the river enters it, tn the point where it lejives it, is only 'u luiles, or alxiUt two or thro«! days' journey. On theuiornini,'ot' tlie IStli of August thf river wasanainentereil asi* Outl.t ef tli-- flowed from the north end of huoliaunt Lake. After truveUini,' swiftly '"^'' '"""'• down the stream for a few miles, we came to the wildest and mo.st pieturesque rapid on the river, where the water rushes for more than two miles throu^li a deep orooked i.'ort,'e, with a wid.th of not morrt than tw(;nty-live or thirty yards. I'oints of black pitchstone or red conglomerate projeet into the gorge, and as tlie water daslies against them ii is hurled baek in a mass of curling ever-moving .spray. On the south east side of this rapid the canoes and cargo were carried tVir ratlier more tlian two miles and a h.alf, over an open jirairio country) which, at the time, was very wet from the recent rains. On the evening of tiie lUth of August, about lialf way l)etweeii (irant \;,.,., ^itli and Wharton lakes, we came to an Kskimtitent, occupied by a man, ''•^x'"""'- his two wives and live children. At first these people were in great consternation at seeing three canoes descending tiie river from the land of their hereflitary enemies, the Cliippewyans, l)ut a present of a few tritlcs and a little tobacco jnit them fairly at their ease. The man informed us that it was still a long way to the ^ea, but that there were many Eskimos camped beside the river lower down, and that from them we should receive direction and assistance from time to time. He also said, that while there were .still many heavy lapids on the |. ,.,„,,, ,,,• river, the worst of all, and the one tiuit would give us by far the most ''■".'[ '"f' ' ' _ ' "^ _ li.liliis ;ini';i(l. troal)le, was near its mouth. This information proved to be very mis leading, for we did not see any more Eskimos for two weeks, and the great rapid, that we were expecting to find at the mouth of the rivei- turned (Hit to be simply a long stretch of swift current down wlaoii tiv canoes were run easily and without danger, into the west end of Bfiker Lake. It is (piite possible that the information, as given, was not i ,:}9..„ity i„ intended to be misleading, but mv brotiier, who acted as our inter- inuU-i>taii 1 • ■> c< i;.nttiis hs- preter, and who speaks the language of the Esknnos ot oavage 'kI,,,,, .liaKct. Lslands with lluency, found it veiy dillicult to understand the dialect spoken by these inland deer-iuinting Eskimos, and so may have somewhat misconstrueil the mans meaning. Our cook, wiio was said to liav(! acted as Eskimo interpreter at ojte of the Hudson's P.ay Com- pany's trading stores near tlie mouth of Mackenzie Itiver for eight years, could not understand this dialect at all. The direct course across Wliarton Lake, from the point where the ;■,,„,, .,„.y river enters it to where it leaves it again, is only twelve mile-, but ^^'i"'''- contrary winds obliged us to keep to the wrong shore, and detained a ci 'X I'J K DOOIIALNT, KAZAN A\l» KKRt.lsOX IM\ Kl;^. Minitli i.f TL. l.w Uiv. SoliK' lai ,'!■ (JriftwiHiil. i\fcc»ity cif rapid tia^il. IH ill tlu' l.ikf fi»r two (l;iys. l.mly .MHrjniio Liikc W!i> also cinvscd ii) t'le teeth of ii slroni,' head wind, wliicli loiislantly dasiicd tlio spnvy fntui the ice-cohl wuler into our canoes and over us. As w«' descendt'd the stream north-west ward t'loni Lad\ Marjoric Lake, tlie north-west wind i-nntinued to make Iraxel very slow and we;iiist>nie. Mt)re than two days were spent on tliis portion ot' I lie river, and though all lalioured manfully at tlie paddles, we were iiiinMe to travel as fast as the current was (lowing in the middle ol tlie stream On the evening of the L'."ith of August, nint'tecii da\s alter we had left the last grove of timber on the rivei aliove Doobaunt Lake, we reached tlie sandy plains at the mouth of a branch coming in from the West. Probably this stream is the Tlielew I5ivcr of Sir (ieorge IJai k, or tiie rivt-r ilescribcd to me by Chariot, a Chipjtewyan Indian, as being easily reached by ascending the (harlot Jliver from the north side of Lake Athabasca. On parts of these .sandy plains was (piite a rank growth of willow, and among the willows were scattered soint^ large drifted tree-trunks. At our camj) some of this woofi was collected, and we not only enjoyed the luxury of a tire, but some bread was baked, and a large pot of meat was well boiled. Deer were fairly plentiful in the vicinity, and were shot from time to time in order to suj>ply the party with fresh meat, but hunting was not allowed to interfere witli the greatest possible expediticm in travel. It had becouie evident that it would lie possible to reach Churchill before winter only l)y travelling with the utmost speed. In order to gain this speed, and !i\oid the delay from the long p(jrtages which we ex]iected still to reach, very little fresh meat was taken into the canoes at a time, and thus we assumed the risk of a shortne.ss of provi.sion.s. the '•y |>ii\ imisly vi.sitcil liy Whitf Hull. From the mouth of Thelew River we turneil eastward and travelUd through Aberdeen and Schult/ lake.s, one day being lost in the former lake searching for the outlet. On August .'{Qth, when on the river a short distance below Schulti: Lake, we were overtaken by a hea\y storm, and, until the morning of the 2nd September, we were unable to launch ,i,,; the canoes. On the latter date we ran down the river to the west end of Baker Lake, which had previously been visited by white men, and which we recognized with greit pleasure, for it put an end to our un- certainty as to whether we were travelling towards tiie Arctic Ocean or towards Hudstin JJay, and we had not encountered the long dangerous rapid that we had been looking for. ^^'e now wished, if possible, to obtain a supplv of caribou-meat, but unfortunately the caribou liad liecome very scarce, having probably withdrawn from the shore into the interior. SUMM.VKY OK l'UOCKKl)INi..S. i;; K Tlio survt»y with "cjinpass aiul lx),it-li»if wasnuitiiiuetl ♦■astwanl along th»! noitli sliuie lit' MakiT Lak*-, tliuugli for t\v<» lays we wt'ie dotaiiiod hy a stonu ub tlin UHUiili of Princo Ifivei'. (in St-pU'iulier 7tli we readied llu> liful ot' Chesterfield Inlet, a lori^' narrow fiord Mtrotchinjr i i„.,t.itii'Ii( into the very lieartof the IJarren I.ands fconj llie west coast ot" Hudson ■"••f- l»ay. Till reafter in th(! tidal water ot' the inlet and a'on;,' the west coast* it' the bay, the 1m tat lot; was of little oi' noseivice, and tin- ilistances were, therefore, estimated from tlni rate of travt-l. Tlif mouth of the inlet was reached on the liJth of Scpteniher, and the day beiiii; clear, excellent ol)servations were ohtained, hoth for latitude and longitude. The next three thiys were beautifully tine and mild, and we made gooing (piite unable to take advantage of inside channels, if any such exist. < )n the evening of the "Jlst we camped on the n.irth side of Neville's ,..; IJay. During the night a north-east gale .set in, and on the following morning it was (h'iving before it a heavy fall of snow. The barometer (hopped about an inch that day, and the storm continued to rage for four days, accompanied by snow, sleet and rain. ' )n the fouith day we walked over the hard crusted snow to the mouth of Ferguson Hiver, which was afterwards descended in IS94. The provisions that we had brought with us were now exhausted, and henceforwartl we were obliged to depend on our guns for food. < ,.ul J li i'', I 14 K DOOUAIXT, KAZAN AND KKHOLSOX HIVKKS. ^ 4 Tmi Sppt<'mbpr 'JOtli, iiltlnniijh the weather was still rough and cold, and the therinonu'ter was eonstantly helow fceeziiii: )ioint, tlie canoes were ni;ain launched, and we paddled across the mouth of Neville's Bay, around the rooky point to the south of it, and across Dawson Inlet, to a low sandy shore near the mouth of Wallace River, where ■we were again detained for a day hy iieavy seas. During that day five ground squirrels were shot. ()n I'Sth Septeniher, after having made a breakfast of the ground squirrels shot the day lieforc, we again started southward, and travelled a few ndles. iSome caribou were then seen on the shore, and -we immediately landed to hunt them, and though unsuccessful in this, one of rhe men shot a polar bear, and thus furnished us with a con- siderable supply of food. Another storm now set in and continued to rage for live days, accompaidetl liy a heavy fall of snow, so that the Want of fiiil. dohens, or dwarf Ijfcoh, on which we Iwul depended for fuel, were buiie the water was usually several miles distant from the line "' ' !•■ reached hy it at llood tide, so that we were unaldo to land or launch the canoes more than once in twelve hours — at the time of tluod tide. For ten days we stru''tjhHl onward in the canoes, liviii'' on what sea , 11 111 1 1 riM 1 .1 1 i>""" J 'itrtify (lucks coulil be sliot over tlie open water, llie weatiier was cold, and cDutinu.-d. the spray tliPt was dashed over us l)y the wind froze on our clothe.-i and heards. It was necessary to constantly knock the ice from tiie paddle.s, or otherwise tliey would soon liecome too heavy to swing. In places a Ixu'chige of ice had formed in front of the hea'-h, so that it was imjidssilile to reach tl>e land with the canoes. The floating ice, f. through which it was often nece.ssary to pu.^h the canoes, had cut them Hiurinir ic«. l)adly and rendered them very leaky. By this time one of the men was suffering severely from an attack of dysentery, and was unaljle to take his place at the paddle. At nightfall, on October I4th. the tide was at its ebb, and the canoes were several nnles from land, off the mouth c»f Paukathakuskow River, in the midst of heavy drifting ice. The night was spent in the canoes, and one of the men had both his feet badly frozen. At Hood tide, .shortly after noon on the folhjwing day, the edge of the .solid ice was reached, and the canoes were drawn over it to the shore. It was ].;,,,; ,,f caii' f impossible to put them again into the water, as that night the shore j'^,;:l""^' '" became covered with compact ice for a long distance out. It was afterwards learned that the Hudson's Bay Company's otticer at Churchill had left a boat on the shore between York and Churchill, several weeks before, considering it too late to continue the journey to Chuichill that season. From the mouth of Paukathakuskow Jliver two men were sent on /-,, ,,,. , ;,, I, iiiii III .It foot along the shore to Churchill, where they were able to obtain four itifli"! " itli , , , „ , 1 • 1 1 •' i< ,1 1 (loi:- ami sledges and teams of dogs, and witli the assistance or these dog-teams si,, i^,.-. the canoes and party were hauled over the snow to Churchill, where we arrived on October 19th. On the 6th of November, the Churchill Biver was frozen over, and ^^,|,., f,. ^j^j having obtained a sledge and team of dogs, to haul the provisions as Clmnhill fur well as the man who.se feet had been frozen, the overland journey to Winnipeg, a distance of about 900 miles by the proposed line of travel, was begun. On arriving at Nelson River, the stream was found to be full of run- ,, , . . o ' I i»!:iy lit ning ice, so that it was impo.ssible to cross it, either in a boat or on the Nd- n kivfi ice. Our party, augmented by three local Indians, was therefore obliged to remain on its banks for ten days, subsisting on the few a (O 4^'* IC. K liOOHAUNT, KAZAN AND KKR«.t80N K1VKR8. Aiiivc lit Selkirk. iMl)l)its, ptiiniiii{iin, foxi's, iVc, that wr were able to iMtc-li ny slic-.t. I»uriiit' this tiiiio tlio weather wii>< very •••»l«l. thf tt'iiipeniturn oficn fall- inj,' at iiiyht to -0 F. < »n N,'Uson alsosupplietl the party with several instrumonls, and thi'out;h- out the whole season did everythini;' in his power to advance the intere.stH of the expedition. Its complete success is largely due to his constant and enthusiastic energy and assistance. Two cedar canoes, built specially at Peterbonaigh, < )ntario, wore provided, and with the kind assistance of Mr. Wm. Clark, of Wintn'peg, and Mr. McLean, of 8t. Peters, three canoemen, Uotlerick Thomas, John Harper and John James Flett, were employed at Selkirk, Mani- toba, while a fourth man was engai:ed as cook and cnnoenian in AVinnipeu. Sir Jolui Schultz, Lieutenant (lovernor of ALmitoba, also kindly loaned us ;• largo Viirch-bark canoe to assist us in carrying provisions during the earlier part of the trip. Arrange- ments were also made with Mr. C. C. Chipman, Commissioner of the JLulsons Bay Compatiy, for obtaining any additional supplies that nught bo needed from the trading stores of the com{)any if the articles were not wanted for their own use. A supply of provisions was also purchased and sent up to Fort Chur hill,'on Hudson's ]:^ay, by the Hudson's Lay Company's steamer " Erik,' to serve on the return trip, or in the event of being delayed at Churchill. Mr. K. M'M, riiF' iiiu.-i'ii. ri'imiiiti'iii aii'l as.si.^t- ance. TtMMU TvRMU ] HUMMAin UK l'l((Hi:KI)lXtiirt«'(l tVdiii Sflkiik nri .luin- hilli, hut it Wfis tin- 'J'Jiid of .luiii' iH'foif it ifJic lied Ciriiiid Uapids, at thf niuiilii of th«' Saskiitchc- waii l{i\ci'. line tlic caiu't-s wi-if put in llic watic tor the liisl tiuii', and t wet adaiiy us up tlio rivci' as fai' as CnnilM'iland Mouse, which was reached on ''uiy '2iv\. On the way wc were ilehiyctl for two day-i l>y a heavy storm, and our |>r.i;,'ress was yieatly retarded l)y th») rapifl current ot Llio river, wliicli ai thiit scaM)n of the year wua nt ex- treuu' lii;,di water. I'lifortunately sumc <>f our prl»\i^inn^• had liecn lost hy the upsetting Arrivt- at of Olio of our canoes in tiui (-'alio Itapids l)elow (.'. ihir Lake, hut we ''"•"''"'■''""'• were able to replace most <(f tiiem at Cumlteiland |[i>use. havid Crane, a Cree Iii(Haii. was ciiiia;.'ed as canneman In replace the cook employed in Winnipeg who had pr.iveil inetlicient; and twootherlndians were engaged to accompany us in the birch hark canoe as far as |)u Brochet post at the north end of Jteindcer Lake, fiom which place they were to return. The two men employed at (!rand Kapids re- turned from luue. On.luly 4th. the party left the Saskatchewan Tfiver at Cundier- land, and turned northward up Sturg- on-weir Uiver to Chuichill Kivei' at Frog Portage^ thence down the (Jhurchill Hivcr a few nules to where it is joined by lleindeer Uiver. up this stream to Ivi indeer Lake and along the eastern shore of Reindeer Lake to its northern end, where the Hudson's llav Company have tlicii- most northerly tradinj; ''" '•i'"^'i't post in th.it disti'ict, and the llonrin Catholic Chui'ch has a mission. Here the Chippewyan Lidians resort fi'oin the surrounding country two or three times a year to barter their fur and deer meat for am- munition and clothing, and to perform their devotional e.xerci.ses. About Christmas time a few Eskimos come in from the f.'ir north bringing robes and furs to trade for ainmunitiun and tobacco, l)ut throughout the remainder of tlie year the trader and the nii.ssionary are almost alone. At this place, which is usually called Du Brochet post, the two Kiij?a-'<' t\*'' Indians whom we had engaged at Cundierland were sent back in the bark canoe, and two Chippewyan Indians were persuaded to accompany us northward in their own canoe as far as Ennadai Lake on the Kazan River, as guides, and to help us to carry our provisions. L^p to the time of our arrival at Du Brochet post, we had been K'^^'en'^o^ '^ jirevious sur- travelling through country which was aiready to some extent known, vey». at least geographically, and we had therefore hurried on, devoting all 2 * I,]'-. A ) 18 r rxioiurxr ka/an .»\ii kkui*! .son iiivk.iis. Surveys tilt! tiiiir •;iu^i'<| liy iit'i-ivsNary di-liiys In iiii iti.s|iniiii; riH-ks (irul not to th^ luiikiiiK ol' .my i<«j;iiliii' i,'tM»i,'rii|iliical survey. Tlio p<*8ition ut' I >ii Iliooli»>t |M».st iiml ItctMi iiHMlcr.itfly wi'll (l.'tcriiiiiKMl liy tlu" .survfVH of Mr. A, ('. Coi-Iii'mih in I'HI and Mr. h. I'.. iKiwling in \f*[)'2. Tin* tirst naiHi'.l Kciitli'iii.ui had iisct'ndt'd ('ucliriim' liivt'r, t'nl- idw.ii^ tile roiitit we wtM'o ulxait to ti'a\<>l, tor i>n<' hnndri'd and tit'tn-n niilt'H, Itiit his distniiciw wcrr all cstiiuatcd, and nn this rivt»r he t(W oonijMisH, HO that it wa.s nHcesaiiry to I'onnuuneu thn .-(urvey I'roni thin trai'.in.; post. (,)bservntion8 wore, therofore, taken t'nr latitiuh* nnd ilie variation of the foinpas's, a?i(l on the afteiiioon of .Inly "J'Mh we left this last ahi de ot civilized man and lie;;an the aseent of ("oehrani- Hiver, uieaMnrinij the (ptiet • in'ti-he-. with a lioat lo;: ami estimatiii',' the slrt'tches of run- ning,' Wilier, lakini.' the he/irinys with a jirisniati • eouipass, usiriy; a solar compass occasionally to lorreet the variations, and takinsj; the latitude dnily. when [xissihle, with the sext.iul. Tln" river was ascended in u general northerly diieetion for a hundred and twenty-one miles, in which distance there were nine pirtitfcs. to a point on its east hank, where the Indiar.s u-u.illy leave the .stream and carry theii' canoes over ii steep-sided sandy ridge for a third of n niiii- to a small lake. I L(>ii(f ''liniii of ^'1 ♦liP afternoon July 27th, wo left Coehivine'l'ivir and eariifd our lic>rtng«~. cani>es, provisions .md "-upplies acro.ss this portage, which pioved to he the first of a long chain of jiortages, forty-four in numher, with nu aggregate length of aliout thirteen miles. The tiailswere usually very ba 1, being often over inegulaf niass(>s of l)roken rock, and, as a rule, it was necessary to make four trips over cu-h portage to cany the caiioe.s and their loads. This routt; passes through ni.iny lakelet- and down and up small streani.s tributary toThlewia/.a jiiver, till it. finally reaches Kasha L;d-:e, on the sanily shore of which we had the |>Ieasurc of (■.•imp- ing on the evening of August -'jth. lit Bepiii thi' (IfSOtllt .if Ka/.iiii Ki\>'r. A storm now del.-iyed us for a day and a half, l)Ut on the 7th of August, we were able to launch our canoes on this lovely sheet of clear water, and begin the survey of its eastern shore. With eo(isideral)le dillicuity we induced our Cliippewyen guides to jiccompany us through this lake, and down the Kazan lliver, which l!ow.> from it, for thirty miles to the south end of P]nnadai Lake. These Indians had now done all that they had originally agreed to do in taking us down the K;i/.an Uiver as far as they had any knowledge of the country, either fntm their own experience, or from the accounts of their friends. We had reached the c) 1/1 I y TVRRELt, 1 SUMMAUY OF IM!Ori:i;i)IN<:s. 19 1 northern coiitines oi tlicir liuntiny jjrounds, and tho uiikniiwn tMnintry to the north was supiutsed to he tliiekly |)ooiilt'(l with unfriendly Eskimos. On the niornin,i( ot' August lOtli, therefore, \vr piiid tlioni for theii- Indian <.'iii.l..s services, and continued nortiiward over Knnadai Lake wiiiiout them, '''"i" ■'""t'l- The party now consisted of Mr. Miini'o-Fi'rmison and the writer, with fi)Ur canoe-men, in thi' (wn cedar e-.. An unkmnvn river, with many broad lakes, lay between us and some point on ilie west .side of Hudson Bay, l)eyond wliich was the canoe journey in ;uitumn down tlie iidiospitabie, treeless shore, of the bay >^solf. After paddlins? thirty miles down this lake, we were delayed fur two a, „, i,-,, days by a heavy .storm w ith snow and rain, wli-'re the tent.s had been '>•"••" liiikc. pitched in tho .second camp beyond tho northern edge of the woods. Up to this time we had not seen any cariliou, and had not been able to shoot anything with which to repleidsh our i-apidly diminishing stock of provisions. On August 14th, we crossed to the west side of Painatlai Lake, and i'anvn- then, for tlie hrst time that season, fell in with the IJarren-ground i,,',',. caribou, travelling southward in large numbers. The country was open and treeless, and the deei' were rather difiicult to approach, but t welve were shot and cut up, anil their meat was spread out to dry in the sun and wind. Here a Chippewyan Indian came into our camp and gave us t", v,, i,,,];. unflerstand that man}' Eskimos were camped farthei- down t\w vivev. ^^"'n'' After considerable persuasion, he consented to guide us down to where the Eskimos were livin;'', but the next dav he left us, and we .saw,, nothing more of him. We, therefore, continued down tlie rivei' with- KskiiiKJs. out any guide until the afternoon of August 17th, when we reached the Eskimo camp of Kopanuak, so called after its cliief man. On our approach, the inhabitants Hed away over the hills, but after a while rhey became convinced of our friendly intentions, and slowly I'eturned. We now felt very keenly the need of an interpreter, for none of us could speak their language, and they could not undei-stand a word of ours. However, after considerable ditiiculty, one of the Eskimos was induced to draw a rough map of the lower part of the river, which appeai-ed to show that it flowed tlnough several large lakes and then emptied into the west side of Hudson l>ay, south of Marble Island. Delighted with this information, and accompanied by three Eskimos in their deer-skin kyacks we continued down the river to the tent of a bald old man named Ilikuatuak, where we camped for the night, drenciied to the skin by a drizzling rain which had been falling during the afternoon. in or. a < ci a .J 'J I 'I 20 F nOOMMNT KA/\\ AMI IK.Kl.lSOX HIVKIiS. Ciiiiiiiiiiiioiis. Tiic next (lay t.lie I'-skiiims acetiinpiiiiifil us, jiUi-.ii'KmI l»y the small presents of nt'Cilles, tol)acfo, \c., tliat wf were iil)lo to iiiakc to tiujiu, and l»y the ikucI sii^'lit nf wliitc nu-n inuriicyiiii,' tlii-diigli their country. Two camps were passeil, and towards evcnin;,' we rearlit'd a tiiird, con- sisting,' of two touts, inhal)itod i)y four families or about sixt.'cn por- sons. Hallo was the chief man, hut two otiicrs wen? Ahyout and his son Kakkuk. We had still to descend ahout a liinusand feet hefoi'e reach- in;,' sea level, and it was tlierefoi'e prolialde that many rapids oi- falls lav helwecn us and Hudson jiav, while unn'ii lime uii'dit he lost All i;.-K (,'1111 siriU'Cil. in seaichiui' our wav throu re ahva' welcomed kindly, and oui' pi-esents of toliacco, \i'.. were received .. :th shouts of joy. With needles, thimbles, ito., we purchased deer-skin clothiiii,' to pi'otect ourselves against the severilv of the autumn weather which was now so nearly unon us. J\ I llWlic'lil!)!' llfws ill "lilt, till' liver. liii'.ti < )n At Ui,'ust I'tith we reached I'assamut's camp, where it was learner i for the lirst time that, the river that we were d'vseendin'^ emptied into Chesterfield Inlet. 'Jd follow the river there would ije out of the (jucs- tion, for we would jirohihly reach the Inlet even later than in the previous year, and on tin' trip down the shore of Hudson Bay, we should he exposed to the same dangers and pri\ations that wt; had then .suflered. After making diligent iii(|uirie.s, however, we learned that it was ])ossilile to lea\(; the Kazan Hi^ei some distance below, and by a 2h fim ot long J )orta :(s to icach a lake at the head mother stream ■Inch empties into Hudson I'.ay o, posit e the Walrus Islands. We dete rnuneil to try this mute. iiziin \v l-tiver. On the ."lUth and 31 st of .August we crossed Hicoliguah Lake, doubtless the Yatli kyed Lake of Saiiiutd Heaine, and reached an Eskimo camp below it, near the jioint where we were to leave the river. 8ix more Esldnu)s werc^ hired to lu^'.p us across the portages, one of them agree- ing to accompany us to the sea. for our two guides did not kn"w the \\ any further. The first of September was beautifully fine, giving us the opportunity of obtaining good ob.servatioJis for latitude and ■] sl'MMAKV 01' I'HuCKKDINOS. !1 F varifUioii, the furnuM' hciii;,' O.S 7' 4S", and the luttcr l20 -lo east. At'tei' tliis idiiiy find stoi-niy weatlier set in. I'or most of Hvo days the men wui'kcd aiiklodecp in tiie water un the wet MDVtaLjcs. On the .Oili of SepteniUer we readied l-Vrgiison l.alay, the weathci- was eonstantly stnrmy, wirh sliowcrs of rain and snow. 'I'lic i'^skinios shot reindeer and su'iolied us witli meat, l)nt very little fuel was to he had to cook it with. Al lliid-on JSay our K^kinio i,'uides were paid off and we jiaried with tiiem with -reat re'^ret, for in the nmntli that they had lieen with n- we had all heeonie e.xeellent friends. On reaching' the mouth nf the livT we at onee icco-ni/ed it, as a ij aee to whieh we had wallced t iiriiUL.'li 1 he d ■illlW on Septemhei' ■acli Hiid- i Hav. ■_'")th, 1 SO.'i. when stor,.i-i)oiin(l (111 a [I'lint a few miles distant at the til of Neville's iViy. I'^i'iin t!i(» lime of i.tir arrival at that camp it mou had thiMi taken us tw(>nt v ciudit davs t II reai •h (' luireliil liould the weathei' prove similar to th of last vear. auil cause us sin-ilar delavs, man y and j,'reiit hardslii]is were uiidowlitrdlv .-i^ain in sture for us. i>ut the (lav was cahii. and while (Uii'thice Ivskimi) friends turned hack iijithe ri\'er, we jiiiddled out v.ith the ii^ Hudson J>av, can 1)11111 for tiie ni'dit on a ii\cr tiie salt water (it liold ivicky point a few miles sou th of Sir \V\\}hy Island. > Tl le next day a s tiff snith wind with ;; hea\\' fi ul (it snow, re;i( lered (Ml r nro''ress very slow, hut al leiiLfth w (^ succe 'ded in ci'dssiiw- Dawson .ilmijx t! .uioc j ir.rncy Inlet and I'eaching the point near the mouth of V»'allace liiver where w'' )iad camped on the2tith of Septemher t!ie pre\ iiais year. After cutting a hole tlirough the ice of the snudl lake in the vicinity, th«! water was found to lie now (juite lilackish, and we were, therefore, ohiiged to melt some !;n )w over tlie alcohol lamp for tea. The next day, SOth Septem- -\v Der th le south wind was sini i) owing, causing lieavy iireakeis oi ik( th idw sanely hore, hut we carried (air c;u oes and cargo a few hundred yards tdon;: the shoi-e and man aired to launch the canoes behind a bar of sand. The elibim; tide, and low shor(^ with its very long points o f lioulders, obliged us to keep far out from land. When the tide ntse aij;ain we ian led, )roljdilv a short distance imi •ly th of our (V '(■/(" of last vear, but it was now after dark and we could see nothing of the adjoin- ing country. The next Morning was cold and cloudy, with a .south-east wini I. r. eavin the shore to look for the cic/i' T le smal ind s were all frozen over, but the brooks were still open except along their edges- .After walking for a couple of hours, \vithout seeing aiiy signs of the UOOIUUNT KAZAN AND KtlKiLSON HlVl.IiS. l)cliiv ili;iil\ if able.' oirlir, the canoes f-aiuo uji. The tide was now ei>l)iiiy fast, and it wiis necessary to join the catiues at once and triM'l on, loavin;,' the shore altogether, or to hind the canoes for ihc day. For the past three weeks the sky had been <'on.>tan!ly iccri'ast, so that no astronomical ohsei'vatinns cmild lie tak. n to di'tcrniine our position, and for live da\s iiiit wf lln- past, seven, it had been >nitNviny more or less ;nery lay. As tlu? suharctic winter was rapi'lly closinL: round u^, and we wei"? stiil twr> hundred and sixty miles from Fort Churchill, the nearest base of supplies, <>n .m uninhabited bni-ren co^ist, with no fuel Init thive pints ot aicoiiol, it -'Cemed very unwise to lose even a day's travel in a search for the cficlic ,• more especially so, as we should have been able to take very liLtle. if any, of the stuff with us, for our collections and necessary jjrovisicns furnished our two canoes with nearly all the loads that they could carry. We, therefor,', con- tinued our journey, camping at high tide, long after dai'k. on .•. sandy Hat below spring-tide level, about se\en miles noi'th north west from Cape Es(iuinuiux. Tlie next day we travelled about ele\en miles, being finallyilriven ashore in a storm on a small sandy island on which theie was no water. i)i\ the day following we travelled about sixteen miles. Tiie tide was at its height shortly before noon, lait we continued in our .anoes till aftei- twooclock, when tindingthat the tide was ebbing very fast, we turned by the t'l)biiig towards shore, but were unable to cone within a mile and a (luartcM" of tide. ' land when we went aground on the sand ami boulders. The canoes and stuff were then portaged for the aliove distance to a sinaH ishmd, where the cami> was pitched, trusting that an east wind would not arise in the night and drive the ri:^ing tide over us. Tlu' water aiound us was founil to be fresh, and further investigation proved that we were camped in the mouth of a river, probably of considerable size. The night was starry and cold, and an observation showed us to be in hititude 60 19' 4:5 ". At low tide the .sea could not be .seen from our camp. The next morning the water was frozen all ai'ound the tents. The canoes were carried a third of a mile to meet the incnmiiiL,' tide, and we were afloat an hour ami a half before the tide was at its height. That day, in spite of a snow storm, we made eigiit miles along a low shore, often through thin lloating ice, going ashoie, a^ the tide went out, on a sand s|>it ii\ front of the mouth of a small brook. The next day, L*.")th September, the c>noes anil stufl" were carricid out on the flat shore, and the tide was met neai'ly three hours jjcfore it was at flood, and in spite of a stiff .soutli-west wind right in our faces. Left agrc 111 11(1 Water frozen lUir.mil the tents. n TTRRCtL. SIMMAKV OK IMiOCKKMNi.S. •-'.•i !■ (|\V •lit r i v.r travelled ton iiiiU's to ii ru.Ky !:iiull. wlinv «.■ raiiiiMtl uhouL u t'o )t ••,,„ip.,n iiii.l !i liiilt ul)(»V(! til- liisl ll(M.(l liWc. S''i)iiiiiic(i tVum the Imw sliniv 1)V n ""'•^ '•^'"'•'• .|iiai-toi- ut a mile ot' siuuiv tidal ll.-it. ( tpiuwit.- us wus iho iimuth ut' a small brook, IVfiiii wliich we olitaiiu-il water. OuroWjeit in eaiiiniiii;- nil this little niek was lo be ai/e In ealcli the tiilo in tlie iiinniiii^', for it would lie up al)oui four oclofk, loiii,' before the first streak of dawn .ijijirared at tliit time ot vcai-. 'I'lie ae\l iiioriiiiiu was perfeetiv calm, and we had launch il our cant.es by half y:,^\ four, l>ui at six o'clock 'I'r.cl i,; tin- a dense fojx ^<'' in, and coiiliiiu dalm .^t ail iiioi'iiiug, eoveriiii; the canoes ' "'' and e\erythini: in them ihickly with frost crystals. Maiiv times the canoes wi-i'e in danger of desuuctioii from cakes of tloatini'- ice. or from lieiiiij carried o\ei- ixiuMcis liy t!ie swiftly el)l)iiiL;- tide. Luu'di wa.ealen in ihe canoes, and a long day's travel of about thiity-live miles was nuule, cauiji ic'iui,' pilche 1 for the niirht in the bottom of a bav full of bould- ers 'Die next day was clear, cold and windy, the thermometer stand- iiii;- at lil) Fahrenheit at noon, when an observation was oijtained sliowinii the laiitude to be (!!J 3 30". On a livdit rise a short tlistance l''''''r romiM' of a good warm lire, a luxury that we had not enjoyed ft)r many a day. The next morning we l.iunched our canoes at high tide and shoved Iijitlcuk through tiie thin ii'c among the boulders by the >hore. The weather ""^'^''"■''""" wa , cold throughout the day, the ice forming constantly on oiir paddles, but we cii.rried some iire\\ a hot lunch, and at night our camp was pitched on a point in lati- tude ')[) L'S' S', wlieie driftwood w,is very abundant, and we had a splcidid lire, 'hi Seiiteniber '2\)t\i the wind preventcil us from going past H-ubbart Point, having travelled only eight miles, and our camp Ittrcli I'.uli- < I 1 1-11 1 • " 1 I .■ 1 \rM'X i'liillt. was ])itchedon the stony lull at the point. In the atterno m the men paddled to the shore, ab )Ut a mile to th ■ west, and procured some water. September 30th was dull and either calm or with a light breeze from till' north, and good [.rogress w;is made. .Vi night-lall we were opposite the mouth of Paukathakuskow Kiver, where we went ashore for the last time last year. The tide was not yet up, and we experienced consider- able dirticuity getting to land through anilover the thick ice, tiiially reach- ing a willow-covered tlat, where our tents were pit; -lied in the snow. The next morniii'' we continued to follow the shore for about live miles a < a '.1 .J t . 'X J ■5 •2i K noOHAlNT KAZAN AND I Kltfll SON IMVKltS. Ai'ri\t' :it t'hiircliill. Work at Chnrcliill. Pl•(>|l,■lrati^lll^. for iivcrUuul journey. iiiul tlit-n, ;is tlic ('hurchill iiiolu>e, ('apt. Hawes and .MTr. .Vlston andi^iseii a heart}' welcome. It was impossiitle to |iroC(!ed further with canoes, and, ;is the rivers were nnt yet fro/en, it was ei|ually im- possilile to travel osirlaiid. \\"e, tlierefi)re, accepted t Ic vei'y kind invitation of Mi'. :!n(l Mrs. Loftliouso to stay with iliem durinu our necessary detention at t'liurchill. wliile ('apt. liawes provi'.led a room for the men in one of the houses at the trading' p vst. During' our detention here, which was protra ted t!ii'oin;h nearly two mon'hs, the rocks of tin- \i(iiuiy were eNaiitincd as closely as po-sil(li\ tlie sur\eys already m.ide were plotted on a scal>' oi' lwouii!es loan inch, consider- able infoi inatit)n was collected as to the dates of opcnin:^ and closing of Churchill h.iilxiur durini; the past M-venty years. Sketches and descriptions of the country lyini,' west ot Jliulson Bay and east of IJeindeer Lake and Kazan Kive;' wi-re also ol)lained f.-.)m an Ivskimo named Powow who was sjiendi.iu the winter at t'lmrchill. and from -linuny Anderson ■md ("urlv Head, two Cliipj cwyan ln.\ford and Xorway House. This yeai' we decided to e.vplore a new route, going direct from CliurLhill to Split Lake on the Nelson liiver, and thence by Cross Lake to Norway House, a route especially interesting as being near the proposed line of tlu' Iludsoit Bay railway : but there was no trail across the cou'itry from Ciiuichill to Split Lake, for the route had never been travelled, and the Hudson's IJayCompany's oOicer at ChuiK-hil! was unwilling to risk the stai'vation of his men and dogs by sending them that way. < »n No\cml)er 10th the Chur-'hill River froze o\er, but we were obliged to wait until the 22nd, when eight Cliippewyans came in to ttade, before we could obtain dogs. From these Indians we bf)Ught five dogs and a dog-sled. Two Cree Indians, named .lames Wastnscot and havid Dick, were at that time campinu' in the vicinity, and as food was very scarce, we induced them to ac' ompany us tf) Split Lake with their dog-sled and team of three dogs. The Hudson s IJay Com].any also agreed to .send a dog-team and two men with us for the iirst si.x ilays of our journey. The Geological ri TVRMI.L. 1 SLMMAUV OF I'UOCEEDINfiS. 2") I- i"\i.i(]|i-i, Sur\ov ciiniiL' was slornl at Churchill ami iiiD.st c.f the ciiUections and heavy stull' were left to he i.n)iit,'lit «.ut of llutlsou T.ay tlic tMllowing year liy the annual ship ot' Ihe'lliulsoirs Bay Company. lieinj,' now pntvided with means of tiaii'-pdrt, the loads, eonsisting \ almost entirely of provisions, lu'dilinu', ijinis and annnunition, were '^''• made up and packed on tli.' sied.s. Fourteen days' rati(»ns were taken for the men and tw(dve for the df)!,'s, tlie latter eonsistinj,' of refuse meat from the white wliales or lie]u,::as that had been eau.Lcht in the harbour during the sunnner. The tot;il wci-ht of the jtrovisions was a thousand jujunds, four hundred Ix'inLC t'"r the miMi and six hundn-d for the dogs. At (hiy-break, on the morning of Wedm-sday, the '2Si\\ of Xovendicr, St:nt t'.n W(> i)ade goodbye to our kind friends and stmted up the Ciiurchill '''' liiver on our long tramj) homeward. That day we walked without snow shoes on the iee of the river, Init early the ne.xt day we left the river to the west of us, and, tying on our sn-iw shoes, started aeros-i an ahuost treeless snow-eovered phiin, through whieu l>eer itiver wimls in a \ery sinuous channel. ( )ii the fifth day the edge of the woorls was reached, and fr(>m that time the snow was ^•el■v soft and dei'p. < )n the night of the 3rd of Decend)er camp was pitched on the brow of a high ri ivtiini to C'liiii'cliill ami Naiiifu'i) L iKt, and liircd luuitlifr man and dou-li-am to iicvuiiipanv us to Xt)i'\vay ilmiM', wiiicli'iilacc we r< aclu'd (ju Cliristmus Hvc, atter an ei-lit day>' walk. Tlu-ic tniir days wimv spent under .Mi'. Mafdnnalds luispitaiiK' roitf, irivin;,' liotli men and ilogs a much uf-ded rest. David Crane, one of our steiMsmeu. who liail accomiianird us throuiriiout x\u- summer, was here paid oil', ami sent lioni" to Cumiier- land hy I'.rand l^apids and up the .Saskaleliewan iviver. Tlien, at'ter liirim: a fre>li dou' team, we a^aiii start d soutiiwai'd on the 'JlKh of i'eeeinber. and walk in;,' on the shore of Like Wmnipei,'. reaejied J >o^ Head on the v'venin- ol ihe .lanuary Ith. 'J'iie doys I'rom Noi'way ilousi' had alreaiiy retuinetl. and here the dog-ieam pureiiased at ( 'hurt-hill wa.- disposed ot. At length, leaving' aside our siiowshoes, we ohtaiiuHl two earioles and one sled, with three ti-ams ot' dogs, to Kfacii."^.'.! -en- Keasoiis fur leriu''!' want of kiiiiwli-ijf."' tiallv unexplored, for in it valuahle fur-heariuy animals are searee or aiumt tl\i- J I. ... o.niin-v. ill most plaees almost > ntirely waatim;', and fur-traders have, theref.ire, not penetrated into it, lu'come familiar wit!, its waterway.s, or marked mil its portages. Its lakes, streams, .and mountains have rcm.uned unkiiown exi-ept from the \ ague stories that have been hrought into tiie ][ud:-on's Bay Company's trading posts on Churehill ]{i\er. or on < -real Slave, Athabasca or Jleindeer lakes. No trading posts had ever t)een established in it. and its lieauties and danger.s were wrappe*! in tiie deepest mystery. North of the limit of the woods it hail le'ver been eri/--ed by eivilized man, ami only once had any attempt been C|it century many rejiorts were brouglit to Churchill, on Hudson Bay. of the existence of great quantities of native copper on the banks of a stream far • the north, and about the same time C'l). i-c-n-.ai- 1. the Hudson's Bay Company was subjected to severe criticism and violent censure in England on account of tlu; i-onstant assertions, and growing belief, that the Company was strongly opposed to any in\es- tigation or exploration of the interior country, back tVom tiie shores of Hudson iiay. Accordinglv Sanuiel Hearne. a clerk at Fort Prince of Wale.i. the .Sainiip! Hcani" stone fortress at the mouth of Churciiiil Jiivei', was sent with some l.v TVRRELI. 1 llIfiTUlilCAL SKKKll. ■27 P UCll nti> oil 'vcr ill 'Vl'l' ii'CU , nn •V tin time ,IU(1 aud 1I\X'S- fes of Tndiiins oil foot, in the iiutumn or ITOO. t<« look tni- the C(ii»ju'riniiie im .lnuiiMy, River, uiul tlif do|o-it of ore on its hiuiks.'' He went hut a short ''''''" distiiiK'c up Seal liiver, wIkmi tlic ladiiuis desiTtcd liim niid lie wiis olilig.'d to ii'liiiii, hjiviiii,' hecn ahsent thirty-six days. (.>ii the •J.Srdof l-Vliriiaiv, 177 ije 03 t' north," whereas the river flows into Yath-kyed Lake from the south- west about latitude 02 .S^', and the! crossing-place is a cou{)ie of minutes further south, leaving the mean of his "several observations ' about 28 too far ni>rtli. From Yath-kyed Lake he accompanied a large band of Indians as iliey wandered l)ackward and forward in .search of caribou, working very slowly towards th(^ north-west, around the north side of Doobaiint I.ake, until tlie season became so far advanced that his guide refused to go through to the Coppermine lliver that year. The Indians with , , , , , . .. I'lnud r.d \)y whom he was travelling also plundered him of .almost all that he had hi., imiiiiii ill his possession, and to complete his disconiliture his .sextant had been """ ''"■ blown over by the wind and shattered. He, therefore, decided to return to Churchill. Keeping to the west of Doobaunt Lake, he apjiears to have crossed the Telzoa River a short distance above it, perhaps at the bluii of small black spruce where we camped on the Citli of August, 189.'5, and the Kazan River a short distance above Anc'ikuni Lake. On 2.5th October he reached the edge of the woods. The flay liefore he reached Seal River he crossed an exceedingly stony piece of ground, possibly of a morainic character. On November 25th, he arrived .it Fort Prince of Wales, "after having been absent eight months and twenty two snow, witli (1ol;.s !iii«l sli'd'^cs, li(! roaelu'd St-al lli'iT mi l>ic(>iii- Ijt-r l.'hii. and nil tlic .SOtli of tlui saiiH' iimiitli arrived at Islaiid l.akc. Ill till' lii'^inniii!,' of l-'clu'iiai V. 1771, ln' cio'^scd Kasl)a or W'liite raitridLTO Liiko near its ii'irtiicrii tiiil.anda. iiioiilli liitcr WliMoldyali'd Lakr. which is jmssihly the oiic luTc calli'd I >aly haki', tliouuh it is aliiinst. (([ually likely to he one ot" the many (uljoiiiiim lakes, lie continued wes.ward to a place culled Tlu!le>vev-a,za-vetli, or Little Fish lliil, s'liiiew here norlii of Lake Athiihisca. Iliiche tinned norlii- wanl. and, I'assiiiL;- near the east i-\\i\ of ( Jreat Sl;i\e Lake, reached Coppeniiine l{i\erou the l.'ilh of .luiy. On Ids return jo'irii'-y. he followed much the same cause from 'rhclewey-ii/.a-yeth to t'huichil!. • )f the rect.'iit ^tati' of our kiiowledi^o of this I'oiintiy, i>r. (•, M. Dawson, i)ireeior of the Oeoloi^'ical Survey, sped;- as folio s: — "Tlie lakes and risers sliow n in this i^^reat r'',L'ion depend entirely on the results of the thrc' j airneys niide l)y Meurne in I 7ti''-l 77:2. Hearne reJilK' \\andered tliroui;h parts of this re^jion in company with Indians whom he was unable to control, his ultimate oliject ^which he a leniitli accomplislied) beinj:; to reach the ('op|)ermiiie Kiver. in order to ascertidn, for tiie Hudson's l>ay Company, whether it wa-' possible U> i.tilize the native copper found there. Not c\en roui^dily approximate accuracy 'an be assii,'ned to his ^'co^raphical work. Ib'fcrriiiLj to the )io->ition of tile mouth of the Coppermine, he writes: 'The latitude may be depended on to within "JO miles at the utmost." In reality it aftjerwards jiro'.cd In lie L'OU miles too far north. * llearne"s book yivcs a:i exceedingly interest iny; account of life among the Indians ai that time, and of the animals and birds found in tiie vicinity of Churchill, but it contains very little information about the character of the country over which he passed, and nothing about its geology. The west coast of I hidson I'.ay, north of l-'ort Churchill, along the eastern edge of the l>irren Lands, has been seen by several explorers, but as all have travelled in large boats, or ships, which nece-i.sarily kept out hmg distances from land, oi' touched it at but very few of the more prominent points, the detaiks of the shore have remained (piite uncertain. It is believed that previous to 18!)3 no white man attempted to travel along tliis coast in canoes or small boats. * On somt'of the Lar^pr Uucxi'IciimI icffieiisdt' Canada. liylJ. M. llawMHi. Ottawa Naturalist, vol. IX., Xo. 2, .May. LSHtt. tllSTOIilCAr. SKKTCll. iM» K Sir \ I'.iitt. lininiM >tl. iliii^ .M'liuk. Ahmit tin- mid. lie ..t April, If.l-J, Captain (afterwards Admiral Sir) Thomas Pinion* sailoii tVinii (iravescnd in two small . ships, tht- li>H(,hi /;,,,! and ^\\v. Diii-nv nj, {\\m> latter tin' same s..ip fmiii which IliMiry Hudson had bfcn set adi it't hy his mutinous crew in Hudson Hay the yoar liffon-), in search of a north west passaj^c to China and till' Indios, and also ])r<)l)alily to try to lind sotne traci' of Hudson. After pa-sin.,r thriai,i,'h Hudson Strait. Uutton crossed Hudson r.ay and siLrhiid its western shore in north latitiuh' •!() 4(»' vvhich he nami < I'/ • ■• ■'■J' 1,1': :\o V noonAiXT KAZAN \Mi n;i!i.rHi)N itivKiifi. Ul'llclll'<< IiiikI. Ulaliil. Hiililiart I'oint. roll) |{. W'flcuiiii' lie iiii iifci Miiitli wostwaitl until In- niiM'd i wli; islaiul liciiriii;^ south \v«'st. lie stoml uimuikI tin- uut.^iilc i»t' tliis islninl ami st'iit II Ixiiit iisliorc iwnv its Miutlivvrsi |i,iiiit II )' iiaiiictl til)* island •• Urooki- (.!(il)liiiin. ' at'tt'iSir Jnlni Uioukc, at'tt'iward.s Lmd Cob- lam. iiih- ot till' patidiis ot the tv\]ii'ilitiuii. not cfi-o'^'m/iiii,' it as liultoii's Hult( II. Ad vaiirt', ami hi' savs that It IS Mil ot a wiiitt' mar l>h ()(i .1 idy .totli, h(> wfilt's this isjami isvt-rvo loajiuc W ICII ,Ioo iltoiit W.S.W. tVoiii I I i.'i flaml< and U'dj^cs at low water, so iliat hi- tlioii!;iit. he r.Miid have i.'oii(' on foot lit a dun fox (prol)ai)ly the to tiic main A^ tl K! men lit'ic oaui l)liic variety ot' the white fox) alive, the is land was taeetlouslv ca Ufd l>unn Kox Island. It would appear to he one of the small islands lyiiiLC oil' 'hf ca[ij .-outh of Corhett's Inlet. Ne\t d.iy he ', wiien, staiidiuL.' in he! ween W. and X.W., he anc'hojcd ainony a ;,'roup of i lands, appan'iitly in .Mistake r>av. in seven fa'homs of water. In his aia;ount he savs: those Islands hi'K'u'i's his .Mall lem.atiLke-., the roiks and slunils ])rol)ably nameil •hahh jaitting him in mind of the int lie.ite calnilat ions of his jiatroli, Mr. Henry Ih-ig^s. ( )ii .\ujiUst 1st, he au'ain stood to sea ami when clear, tcjok up a eourse 8.W. by S., hut loang sight of land Mirm-d W.- "The land met ine a-'ain, .stretchin'' im.re to s.mth, and nianv Immloeks therein. Stood to within se\en miles. Uacl iiy six. se\en and ten fathoms. 1 run oflf a long way hefore 1 came into twenty fathoms, passing by two dry ridges that iiad been far witluait me." "August 2nd. stood W.S.W. seven leagues to an island (Sentry Island!; and three or four more within it, all lying almo-t without siu'ht of the inaine. I sto .d witiiin Miem to seven fathoms. j went to seaward off the .said IS land. which is s.aid to ha\e a lout: vri'i otV its N.E. end. I Is position IS givi n as in latitude (il or l> 10 I t uine( Ls.W am anchored at twenty fathoms." Aa^ust .'{rd, he travelled along the slior(>. which was '" low, but now and then a san(U' kn owie or downe would appear S.W. by W. f ().• te!i lea<'ues to l.uitude i'in;,'iiii,' l>arl< a IhmiI loiul tn tin* >.lii|i. < »ii tlic oili, lie \vritt'<«: '• I iii;ii|(' wiiv s .mil iliii't' It'iiyufs til Iiitiiiiili' .'i',t ." . iiihI tlifii F v \, twn li'.i''iu«s. It s('»>iiu'«l to l»o liiu'i»'r Iiiiid tliin I li.'iil liilt'lv srcii. I siMoij lliiis til iiMitliwai'il MUM tliviiu'lit. ami t lii'ii 1 my l.iiiil I was u|i(iii yi'slci'iiay iim! iiiiitr. I'lnl l!if laml within it. wlllfli 1 set" Vc.-Mi'lllil'lll, Hlrcti'Illll'' illtn lliiM IT 11. stun aliii'it til tlic iioriliwaiii, the land III iK-iiii^' muro jilt'asint than l)ft'iiri'. ami liiildrr ~;lit)i'(«, hii,'hi'f and full ni \\ihh\, and tin- dayiiylil Iwiny coim- nil I (Midd M'l' I lit- liiitiiini of '\',iinlv lln'pt I liililn-i t.' " Auiiiisi (i. " Standi'n^ aliiii'i, wlnli' tlii> land tivnt.d II. and W'., \v»' «»M' I lie t'litratu'i' ut'a lar;,;(> river ,( 'liui'i'liill !Ji\fn. At tlir S. cn'.iaiiiT iif a riv(>i' was a rlitV. likt' unto IJalsra ('lilV. ihmii' il.ifwii'li, and on tin' ^outli a;.(ain anoflior i^ccat Imy, whose liotiom was «'asier to he seen. The S. part of tills hay lyetli ]•]. and W.. and ir the l'„ end thei'oof lyetli an island S. and X., aliout thre" miles 1 nn,'. ' Sinoe Is.'il t'lis island secins to have lieen almost entirely swept away. ..J (.'apt. !■ ox ciiiitiiuied to examine the shore sotith-i'astwai'd a^ tar as ■rti'hiacliill ilt. Kiiiirlit ;m(l llnilo-.v '.'ape Henrietta Maria, wheme he returned to Mnuland. Alioiit 17lo, the Hudson's May Comi'.iny liuilt a tradiiii; post at the |.' mouth of Churchill Kiver. '" In 1711', this Coin[)any sent Messrs. Kniy;ht. r.arlow and V;uiL,'han. M, from < iravescnd, in two small shijts to look for uold. eopper, >Vi'., liut they all miserahly perished on the east o.id of Marl)le Island.''' ( )n the 2'Jnd of .luno. ITl'i.', .iohn Scroyijs was sent north from •'"Im Sn.!,'^^ ( 'liurohill, in the .sloop \\'linlfliaii<\ to look for his ii.-,! eountrymen, and to continue the seareh for the dejiosit of copper. v lie went a-< far north as Whalehone Point, mi latitude "lit ">''i , " and almut the end of duly he returned to Churchill. AiiioiiLr the names ^dven hy him are •'Pistol I'ay," which was applied to one of the inlets north of Whale Cove ; " Pits .Mount," on M.irhle I.sland : and " Whalei one Ulutl," at the cast end of that island.' Between 17. ■!:> and 1747 .loscph Kobson^, a Civil Knyineer, spent .i, is.. pli K..b- si.x vears on the west co.ist of lluuson l>av, eithei' at Churchill or"'"' l>1 I.'' O H ciirnc's .F(iunii'\ J)ul illtl, l"'-'!'. l'|i. XW. I I ii'iiMie's .lonrai'V, |i. xwiii, and l).ii>li">. An acc'innt ef the cnuitri. jdinini,' t.i HiuNdn's I'.av, ii. sn. .\ .1. (■scri|iti(in of the coast, lak.s, ;\n(l curr.-nt-. in r.utt..irs P. L..nil Anon -n. d. (IVol.alily 17-l.">. ) ■i An .Account of Six N'car-^' li.si.hnn. isi Hmlson's I'.av. fro Ki to 17;jt;, rtn.l 174 i t IKlnirsoV HlVKlfS. Y.rU. Di ln''t)(iM .1,1 tl uriuj,' tliis liiiu' lie cviilciitly inii(lt> a survi-y of the tidal inoutli lit' the C" lllIC liill KImm'. sliowini' the cliaractci' of the sluii'f ami till' lii;j;li ain! low watci' inarU in cousidei-ahlc dotail. II is ]niiilislii'd ]i!an covrs an aica of eighty two stjuart- niilfs, nn a scale of one nautirai niili" i«> an incli. In riit' l)(>irinniiiL;- tif ,(uly. IT.'i". .Mt-ssrs. Crow a?ul Najiiff sailed api-r. from ' liurcl;ill nn a vovaLre or disruverv but they merely went diieeb lo W lalc t o\i'. \s n(>re tliev iraiuMi wiln tlie [•.skiiuos ^^' i o\ e IS aid ' 11 iiavi icril M 1 I ailed, "ffoiii a whale's havinij; earried one of the '' )U loftl H> anchor and ealilc Mi.M!.t..ii ail 1 M. H- I'l till- Furiiif (.'ompanv's slo'ps In sea, by its tail i^'ettin They .sent a boat nnith into Pistd durinii the voyage, and Crow returned to Churchill.* In the yeai' 17 ll. Captain Christophei- Middleton. in the /■'iimtire, and -Mr. William .Moor(! in \\]i' Disrori'vi/, ii I slciiiu or bomlj ketch, pii tk. sailetl from I'^n;,danil in seiirch of the North-west I'assaiie, which they haped to find near the north-west angle of Hudson Bay, ( >n IdtM of Auuu.-t, thev arrived at Chureliill Uiver, where, at the II tlK tine. I hi udsou s Tiay Company was building a massive stone f(irt, h'lUgh it was stil! so early in the season, they decided to reiyain fur tip' wii.ter. pro'.iably using the little haib;piir ,it ^loop■s ('uve as their and wuiti-r iiua: ler,' < In .lunc Ist, 17 1: ro()Ae-( 'nlijiam and on the ■Jill. .llld n'l the l/'tli entei-ed Waiter Inlet, (:\rari which Captain .Miildleton named afr afterwarils they discovered Kepulse Hay, w I e: ice lliey turned .'nuth- Ciiarles Wairer. lortlv Miirl.le I.-hm.l luuliinir. ard to " I'.roiike-Cnbhani. ' ( )n August iL'tii. .Inhn Kankin, the Lieuteiiivnt of the Fm itli side of Marble b- discovered aim explored tlie liaroour mi the snu 1th th and and in his log nf that date the name M.iible island iirst appears as an alternative for Brooke Cobham. < in ihe sime date he also obser\ed an opening m ilie and tn t lie west warn. init was unalile vo examine it. Tl lis opening is since known as I'ankin Inlet. On .Vugust loth. M )!•• lUl' M Smith in tin Jidlihs iiml ('•ih I'orni'i. the ships In ire away for Mngland. t As the results oiitained nn this expeditinii W( re not considered at all satisfactory, two ships were again fitted out, the J)'i iri'i'i/, a , wliich LV, { )n ;it Uie \\v fort, 1 ii'iyaiu iis tlii'ir roki" up ic month pt'd hrr." •lliward. Itliaui ' r Inlrt, liorlly 1 south- fiini'"''', (> [shmd, lU's as an ;crvod an iinnni' it. ;ust l">th, sidt'ri'd at ',,>■, of 1 80 iVs put in Diilihs, Ksq., • !■ aci'iiuiit of hut 1 liiive charfi;e of Captain William ^Tooro, who liad l)e>-.' in charfj" of the Disronn/ on tho previous expedition, aiul tlu' latter in ehar-e of Captain Francis jmith. On the 20th of .May, 17t(), tliey sailed from England, and on the 11th of August made the land on the west side of the Welcome, in latitude ill . On the 19th they .■eaelu'd Marlde Island, and after establishing the port they bore southward to their winter (luarters in the mouth of Haye's Uivei', near York faetorv. )) ""^V 1" In. June of the fol lowing year they sailed northward, determineil, if possible, to lind the North-west Passage to the South Sea through the mythical Straits of Aiuan. The long boat of the Dohhx had bee-i enlarged and christt;.ied the Ri'suhitioii, and on 1st duly, in latitud'' I'll 40', Ca])tain Moore, Mr. Ellis and eight hands "went on boai'd, in Kxploic \\.v order to e.Kamine the coast," instructing the mate to wait for them in r.MtVi.' "M;' the Dof)f)s at M.arble Island. They "Continued northward to Kni/dit's maux. Island, which is said to be in latitude d- -', and would therefore seem to be one of the islands off the mouth of- I'Vrguson River. From here they had several islands in view, such as Sir Biby's. Merry's, Jones's, etc., "all rocky and barren.' From here they sailec into Neville's Bay, at the bottom of which there is said to be fi "pretty large river runiung westward. " This is said to be north-west some distance from latitude 6'2 12', but not only this but many ot the other latitudes given in the account are very inaccurate. On the Dtii of July they directed their course to the eastward and anchored at Sea-horse Island, the niost eastward of thest> islands. "On tlu; lOtli we weighed, and stood along shore among many small islands and pieces of iloating ice, till we arrived at Whale Cove in the latitude o (52 '.W north.'' Its true latitude is abou'.. 02'. " We sailed again on the 1 1th, and arrived the same day at a poiii' ("orhetf . !::- in tlie latitude of 02 17' north, from whence we discovered a lari.' • opening, running to the westward, to which T gave the name o. Corlict's Inlet." On the 13th they rejoined the Doh/i.^ and CaJifornla, which were anchored between ^Farble Island and the main land. In their absence Captain Smith, of the Cd/i/oniia, had attempted to enter Ivankin lidet with his ship, l)ut tindiu',' himself among shoals^ he desisted, and sent hi.s chief and second mates to examine it, who found it to terminate in a bay. On the morning of the l.'5th, l)efore their arrival. Captain Smith had sent Mr. WestoU, his second mate, in the long boat to search the coasts between Canes Jalabert and I^'ullerton. On the 11th the chief mate of the I'/oliba was sent in the li'so/nfion to explore the same piece of coast. The two ships .sailed northward along the coast. 3 ..J 5) n 34 F nOOHALJfV KAZAN AND FEKGUSON UIVERS. J)i,'-covt'r.v iif ( Ihestertitld [nk't. Alout July 2Gtli, they \veie .ig.iin joined l)y the two boats. — "The tfficet's aboard then reported, that they found an inlet, in the latitude of i.l-l north, and in the longitude of 32' east from Marble Island, which was three or four leagues wide at the entrance, but upon their sailing eight leagues up it, increased to six or seven leagues wide. That their course so far was N.N.W. by compass, Ijut then it l)egan to turn more to the westward ; that sailing ten leagues higher, it grew narrower by degrees, till it became l)Ut four leagues wide ; that notwithstanding they could perceive the shores open again, they were discouraged from proceetling furthei", because the water from being salt, transparent, and deep, with steep shores, and strong currents, grew fresher, thicker and shallower at that li, ight." On Ellis's map, this inlet is called Chester- field Inlet, but it is said to have been also called Bowden's Inlet, after the mate of the Call/ornia. After oljtaining this information about Chestertleld Inlet, the two shipis sailed northward and re-explored Wager Inlet, and then returned to England. The explorations of Fox, Moure and Smith, had shown that there was no hope of a North-west Passage from the west side of Hudson Bay soutli of Bepulse Bay, except possibly by Chesterfield or by Corljett Inlets, the bottoms of which had not been visited. Accordingly, in the year 17G1, Captain Christopher* was sent from Churchill, in the sloop ClmrcliiH, to examine Chestertleld Inlet more rully. He ascended it fur al)out a hundred miles, when, finding that ihe water had become almost fresh, he turned back. In the following year he returned to the inlet in the same sloop, while Mr. Norton iiccompanied him in a cutter. They ascended the inlet in the sloop to a large fresh-water lake, which they called Baker Lake, at the west end • 'f which they saw the mouth of a river. On Christopher's chart, I pposite the mouth of this river, these words are written: — "A small river, full of falls and shoals, not water for a bo it."' .Mr. .Idliusoti In 1761, Uanki.i Enlet was explored by .Mr. Johnson. His map km' luU't.^ "' hows it to be fifty-five mile.", deep ; and thirty-five miles from its mouth iie anchored in seventeen fathoms of water. The information given on the face of the manu.script chart received from the Atimiralty Ollice, is all that I have been able to learn al)out his journey. Corbetts Inlet still remained unex])lored, and the journey made by Samuel Hearne into the interior had shown the existence of a large < 'liri^t < :■:, } V) ,1 36 F DOOUAUNT KAZAN AND KP:HfiUSON RIVERS. I h, ;M II III. R. R.ll. In 1879 Dr. K. Bell, of this Survey, descended the lower portion of Churcliill River to the P.ay. He described the "Churchill ed the white (juartzite of which the island is composed, and the niica-schists of Deadman's Island, at the mouth of the harbour, t From what was seen at Churchill and INIarble Island, and from the examination of a numl)er of specimens, collected on the coast by a friend, some clearlj'^ from loose masses, he gives a note on the geology of the west coast of Hudson Bay. He concludes that the shore from Seal River to Es(juimau.x Point is underlain by " l!at-lying limestones," and that " Huronian rocks prevail all along the north-west coast of Hudson Bay, from Esquimaux Point to Chesterfieldlnlet.'' \ DESCRIPTION OF ROUTES. A description of the shore of Lake Athabasca, with the survey made of it in 1893, has already appeared in my Report on the Country between Lake Athabasca and the Churchill River.^ A short distance east of the mouth of Wolverene or Chipman River, on the north shore of Black Lake, there is a portage leading north- ward to the hunting ground of the Chippewyan Indians. On the evening of the 7th -July we camped on the beach at the beginning of the portage. Northward the country was entirely unknown to either ourselves or any of our men, and our only guide was a rude map of the route as far north as Daly Lake, obtained from an Indian during the preceding year. Black Lake to Heiout of Land. Wilvci-Piie I'ovtutrc. The Wolverene portage is two miles and a quarter long, and rises in this distance 210 feet, the height of Black Lake being 1000 feet, and the level of the small Xak.i at the north end of the portage 1210 feet above sea-level. The country t:..'ough which the portage passes is *Rei)ortof Progress, (Jpdl. Surv. Can., 187S-80, \\\<. ]!l-22c. tKeiMirtof Fnigri'ss, (icol. Surv. Can., 1K82-.S4, pp. .'^4-8(!i) n. t Annual Ri'ivirl (lool. Sur. Can., Vol. J. (X..S.) ISSo, pp. 18-20 un. § Annual Report, Goal. Surv. Can., \ol. V'lII. (N.S.) part ii. TYRREll' ] CIIIPMAX lUVKU. 37 F generally thickly wooded with small black spruce, Banksian pine, and larch. There are two or three sandy stretches, but for most of the way the land is composed of light-gray clay, doubtless a glacial wash de})0site(l in the bottom of Hyper-lJluck Lake, the enlarged post-glacial representative of Black Lake. Through this clay rise morainic ridges of rough, irregular boulders. The following is a paced survey of the p^^^^^^ portage. Two thousand paces equal one geographical mile : — X, N, N, N N, 25 \V. 3(t0 25^ W. 300 10' \V. 4:> ■ib' W. 24 20 W. ()0 25' W. 1.50 N. 20' W. 207 N. N. N. N. X. X. X. X. X. X. X. X. X. X. X. 25^ W. 3ri(J 10" W. 170 80 W. ;-.(• 00 W. DO 35^ \V. 2.J0 50 W. 4.-) 5" E. 100 35" W. 200 25 W. .S5 20 ]•;. 1(10 10" W. 200 20" W. 130 10° E. 410 30" E. 9() 15° E. 400 5" W. 240 4,012 l)acL'^<. Over iiiDraiiiic liill seventy feet liigli, foiii- pused (if small stones and Ixmlders. 11 Across a l)laak spruce swanip and over a low ridge of large irregular Iwulders. "^ I Over a low ridge of sand and boulders, to an " I old Indian eanipiiig ground. Through swamp to ridge of thinly foliated highly biotitic, dark-gray gneiss, striking X. (JO E. anil dijiping X.'SO' \V. <-: 40 . M Through swam]) to a ridge of similar giieiss, wootled with 15anksian pines. 1. I Down a gentle sandy slope wooded with small H I Hank.-ian pines to a little weedy creek. M Through swanii). M Up a hill of similar reildi^h giieiss striking as before. " Through swamp. 11 I l^]! a slo|)e of red gneiss to the to)i of a sandy 1' I iiill, wocded witii small Banksian ))ines " Down sandy slope to the edge ot a little sandy terrace. 11 Through swamp. 11 I Over a low hill of sand and boulders wooded J witii s]iruce,'ind larcli. II 'J'hrough swamp. 1. Over a dry sandy and mossy plain wooded witli small spruce, to a brook. II 0|ien Banksian jiino woods. 1, l']) the east side of the yallev of a creek, over rising land studded witli boulders, and ^volHled with sjiruce and birch. 1. Over similar coimtry to the south end of a small narrow lake lying among rocky wooded '.lills. Camp was pitched at the south end of this little lake, from which a noi.sy, interrupted brook ran past our tents towards Black Lake, which lay glittering in the sun a few miles to the south. To the west is a rocky ridge 150 feet high, composed of a dark-gray highly hornblendic gneiss, varying to a coarse red augen-gneiss, which strikes N. GO' E,, and has an almost vertical dip. (Jlacial stria^ were seen on its summit trending S. 45" W. The south-eastern side of the ridge is steep and thickly covered with boulders, imbedded in a matrix of fine red sand or silt, which supports a thick growth of small black spruce. < ci a iii.i^* i;« ■A ill* 38 F IJOOIUIXT KAZAN AXU FEItC.USON RIVKKH. 'Jliain of sni hikes and \i tiltfHS. all Tlie little lake is clear and shallow, with a l)Ottom of rude stones. "" It is from one to two hundred yards wide and nearly half a mile long. A creek flows into its northein end through boulders. The portage track at this end is 1000 yards l^ng, and i-uns along the bottom of the valley on the east side of the creek. 1 1 is hard and dry, being generally over the fine light-gray silt. It ascends about forty-five feet and ends on the shore of another similar lake in a pleasant grove of spi-uce, where the turf descends to the edge of the watei-, and the bottom of the lake, close to .shore, is of small rouiuletl stones. This second lake is very similar to the last, is a mile long, but has a long arm extending towards the west. It appears to bo moderately deep and has mossy banks, while wooded rocky hills descend into it from all sides. Here and there salient i)oints i>i'<,)ject into the water. A little stream Hows into its northern end, descending live feet irom another lake. The canoes were carried over the boulders for seventy-five yruxls, from one lake to the other. The »hird lake is similar to the last, with high wooded shores, and rounded islands and points l" hornl)lende-gneis.s. After following its east shore, the portage leading from it was found aliout the middle of its western side opposite some small islands. This portage is LOO yards long, with a rise of fifteen feet, through woods of small black spruce, birch and a few balsam poplars. It is in a valley, over light-gray till thickly studded with sub-angular boulders of reddish granite and gneiss. The fourth lake is a small shallow pond a third of a mile wide, with wooded shores. Tlie fifth portage is fifty yards loijg, aci'oss a narrow ridge underlain by a reddish-gray medium-gi'ained garnetifer- ous Inrnblende-gneiss striking N. 60 E., and with almost vertical dip. The path descends in all fifteen feet to the fifth lake, a pond which is not more than 200 yards across. The landing at the sixth portage is beside a rocky c'.ift' of reddish gray hornblende-biotite gneiss, with similar dip and strike to the last. The portage is IGO yards long, through spruce woods, aci-oss a swamp, and over moss-covered rock down to a lake. The I'ock is a reddish- gray, well foliated gneiss, striking N. 30 H., and dipping N. 60 W. < 70\ The sixth lake lies twenty feet below the last, and is nearly half a mile long. The seventh portage is ."joO yards long, and like the others it is in a valley, over till holding iriegular boulders of granite and gneiss, with hills of gneiss on each side. It has a descent ^i about fifteen feet to Chipman or AVolvi -ene Lake. At the end of the portage nearest to Chipman Lake, the I'ock is a gray, well-foliated TTRRILt. 1 CHIPMAN RIVKI!. 39 F biotitegneiss, highly qunrtzose, striking N. 40 E., and clipping N. no W. < 6o°. Cliipnifin Lake is a very irregular body of water lying on the course Chipman of Chij)inan River at an upproximatp elevation of li'lO feet a])ove the '" ' ' sea. The course followed by the Indians in their journeyings to am! from the north, passes through this lake for four miles and a half, but we spent more than a day in the lake, and sui'veyed its shores foi twenty-one miles, before we found the river flowing into it. The shores are unusually high and sparsely wooded. They consist for the most part of dark-giay or reddish hornblende-gneiss, striking N. -15 E., and with a dip approaching more or less closely to vertical. There are a number of islands. Some are high and rocky, others are long ridges of sand and boulders. At the north end of the lake is an even terrace of stratified sand, twent3'-five feet above the present water-level, probably formed at the mouth of a stream when the Kee- watin glacier retired to the north. The river ilows out of the south end of tiie lake as a swift stream lliO feet wide, and flows into its north-east side in a channel two feet deep between rocks thirty-five yards apart. The rock on the west side of the river, above Chipman Lake, consists IJiyt'i' ai)ovf • • ipiii- •! ' 'liipiiiiin of a hne-grained dark liornl>lende-granite, intm-jately folded iii with a |,;ikf. red felspaih'c gneiss, without definite strike or dip. For six miles N. 40" E. from the lake, the river takes the form of a long lake, divided by a low sandy point, past which there is ii, swift current. In the midcile of this lake are many high, rounded, rocky, wooded islands, composed of fine dark garnetiferous granite, in- terbanded with light-reddish gneiss, striking N. 40 E. and dipping N. .50' "NV. at an angle of 60'. The shores are also high, the rock risin;: in rounded bosses gives the skyline a rudely wavy contour'. Douldet s and rock-fragments are thickly scattered in the low places, and perched boulders were constantly to be seen on the high bare points. Above this lake the river flows for four miles from N. 25° W. B<- side it, in some places, is a low sandy fiat scantily wooded with small l^)anksian pines, while beliind, or in places descending to the edge of the water, are dark craggy clifTs of hornblende-gneiss. Three rapids obstruct Three rajiids the upper portion of this reach, and past them portages were made, respectively 80, 1 100 and 300 yards long. The middle portage is over very stony hills, having the appearance of a moi-aine that blocked up the valley. The boulders are for the most part irregular and of local rock, and are imbedded in a gray rock-flour. At the foot of the upper portage is a good exposure of evenly foliated hornblende-gneiss laiM ci .J l.:,H 1 ' " 10 F DOOUAINT KAZAN AND KElua'SOK RIVERS. Hiroli liiik. (tTOVO of spnicf. iiiterstratifteil with thin hiyors of light-red felspathic gucuss, striking N. 20' E. and dipping N. 70' W. at an anglo of 10'. Heliind this portiige is a hill, 170 feet high, of dark -gray gneiss, the .sides of which are covered with clayey and gravelly till mixed with boulder-s. At this rapid t\w river (lows from Birch Lake, which is thirteen miles ^ong.'ind two miles in greatest width, lying X. 2')' E., in the direction !)f the strike of tlie underlying and surrounding gneiss. The shores generally descend in wooded slopes, in some places steep, and in others broken by a sandy te'-race from Hfteen to twenty feet abne the water. The river flows into the north end of 15irch Fiake in a lieavy rapid with a descent of fifty feet, ovei' a bed of thinly foliated light-gi-ay liornblende-gneiss. (i rowing among the stones near the foot of the rapid is a grove of large white spruce. A portage half a mile long runs along the east bank of the river past this rapid, over a ridge of stony luorainic hills composed chiefly of subaiigular mas-es of gneiss. The north end of the portage opens on the shore of Selwyn Lake, just •it the top of the rapid. Sehvyii Liiki, t^elwyn Lake is iifty miles long in a dii'ection N. 40 E. It lies at an elevation of 1310 feet above the sea, and the temperature of the water in the open lake on July l.Jth was 58" F. In its south-western portion it .iverages a mile in width, but in its north-eastern extension it extends an unknown ilistance towards the east. As we have already seen, it is drained by Cliipman River south-westward to Black Lake, but the Indians state that Porcupine River, which empties into Stone liiver above Bkick Lake, also takes its rise in this lake. The shores and islands are usually composed of boulders or bouldcry till. The surrounding surface rises and falls in rather gentle undula- tions, with here and there a higher elongated hill or druralin. Occa- sionally low clifis of brown peat overhang the water. Many of the islands are drumlins, or low elongated ridges of till and boulders, while a few are of waterworn sand and gravel and are evidently kames or eskers. In the south-western arm of the lake there are comparatively few rock-exposures, those seen being chiefly composed of coarse white massive granite. At a point about the middle of the west side of the lake, the rock is a yellowish-gray highly garnetiferous micaceous gneiss, striking N. 55^ E., and dipping N. SD" W. at an angle of 25". It is cut I)y a vein of coarse white pegmatitic granite, containing large crystals of white and black mica. Towards the bottom of the north- western i.ay are sandy terraces, associated with hills of boulders. At the northern end of the lake the shores are generally more rocky than •1 ni;i(iiri-oK-LANit. 41 farther south, and its iioi th-wostorn arm is lljiiikcd l)y hills of gneiss from 200 to ;}00 feot in height. The c Jiintry is more or less genemlly wooded with sniall l)lack .sprm-e, but on souio of the sandy tracts aro orclmrd-iike gloves of birch. IfKIflHT-OFLANl). The heiglit-ofdand is a belt of low stony morainic hills, lying in a rather wide valley between rocky ridges several hundrerl feet in licii,'ht. It is a mile and a <|uarter wide, extending from the shore of Sclwyn Lake to a shallow bay at the southern end (;f 1 )aly Lake. A good dry portage, 2400 yards long, runs through small spruce, from one lake to the other. Data' Lakk. Daly Lake lies just north of the heightofdand separating the waters ({..ncral cli.ir- flowing to Lake Athal)asca, and thence to the Arctic Ocean, and those '•^'■'^'■''^■ llowing to JIudson Bay. Ft has an elevation of 1290 feet above the sea, or fifty feet less than Seiwyn Lakes. The temperature of the water in the open lake on July 2Lst was 58' F. It ctjusists of two portions respectively twenty-three and thirty miles long, lying north- east and south-west, joined l)y a transverse portion six nnles long. xVt the soutii end of the lake high hills of gneiss rise on both sides. These soon draw apart oi' decline, and the l)anks become low and strewn with boulders. The few hills that lemain are composed of till and boulders. Then long low sandy points project from the shore, extending into a chain of s indy islands. A large island, ten miles from the .south-west end of the hike, is Lai-pre islaiut. composed of light-green massive and sheared diorite, in which the horn- blende is largely altered to chlorite ; while some of the points to the south of it are composed of i-cd and green hornblende-gneiss, with a general easterl)' strike. Eight miles north of the above large i-;land we crossed a neck of land peninsula. on a portage 500 yards in length, apparently at the base of a long peninsula extending from the western shore. The portage is over a gentle hill of clay and bouldei's, rising to a height of twenty feet above the lake. To the east is a rugged rocky hill, while to the west the land rises with a light .slope. A mile north of this portage is a long point, near which is a moder- ately well foliated light-gray, highly garnetiferous gneiss, striking X. 20° W., and with nearly vertical dip. The surrounding country is cliar- acterized by low drumlins, or ridges of till and boulders. The point is of < III i* <• 'J ...!«• ..J \) 1 .;.. 'X r:i:, o ^U^o 1: DOOHAUNT KAZAN AND IKtKil'SON IMVKIIH. K-k.r. Ni)rtlu'rii limit iif ii()|i. Uv. Hucky :*\\ii\v. Low sliun bouliirrs, iind t'loiii it an opon s.indy ndyo, or oski-r, extends S. ',)S W., wiiidiii,!,' slightly, aiul yrmliiidly liMiig over some roeky hills seventy feet above this lake. On tlio side of this ridge some small dwarfed aspens ( /'o/nifim (reniffoidrn) grow, marking the extreme! northern limit of the tie.' in this vicinity. A point foui- miK'> to the west, on the north i-liore, is composed of biotito-gneiss striking N. .iO Iv, and dipping S. dO' E., at an angle of 45'. Its smnmit and eastern slojie are well rounth-d. while its west(M-n side is much more l)roken. On the weathered surface are some rough grooves, prob.dtly glacial, trending S. SO W., while in a slight deprv's- sion is a beautifully polished surface with minute glacial stria* trending S. CO W. From this point northward the east shore is generally low and strewn with angular fragments of rock. A [ oint in latitude GO .'VJ' .30 ", is comjHiscd of biotite-gneiss, just liehind which is a knoll of a compact medium graineil greenstone (diabase.'), cut by numy anastomosing veins of wliite granite which cut the greenstone into largo eye-like masses oi- even '.ive it the appearance of a conglomenito. The surface is genei-ally rough and weathered, but some (|uart/ veins have preserved their line ])olish, and show many distinct ])aralle] glacial striie trending S. 85 AV. Eight miles further towards the north-east, is tlu" bare rounded point of an island of leddish, white-weathering, massive granite, containing irregular inclusions of gray foliated gneiss. Its surface is smooth and polished, and is marked with glacial stria' and small grooves trending S. 70" W. The oastei'n sid(( of the hill, facing the direction from which the glacier moved, is rounded, while the west, or lee side is rough and broken. In dejjressions protected from the eastern glacier, five occur- rences were found of distinct older glacial striae trending S. '25'' \V. Two miles and a-half further east, the rock is a reddish biotite-gneiss, containing la,rgc phenocrysts of ortlioclase, striking N. 15° E., and dip- ping N. 75 W.,atan .angle of GO . Foi' the lemaining thirteen miles, to the bottom of the lake, the rock, wherever seen, was a gray l)iotite gneiss, with a general northerly strike, and its surface was everywhere strongly marked by glacial striie trending S. 70 to 75 W. The shores are generally low, and are strewn with loose angular masses of rock. These stones did not seem to be anywhere piled in definite boulder-walls. The nearest approach to boulder-walls was at some of the points, where an unassorted mass of clay and boulders bad been shoved up to a height fif two or three feet. Points or bars of gravel TyxRiii. J I>AI,Y !,AKK. 4:1 V ,'el •)r stviul of liny cousidtTiiblo si/e ivre also coiispii-uouhly absfiit and tin wIidIo short! is new, and hut littli) niodilifid by cither wavcor ioe action. Around tho shoiv nf Daly Lake, and extending northward to tlie northorn limit of tho wooded country, am more or less extensive mossy or tundra areas, usu.dly on yentle slopes tliat extend from the wood.' dctwn to the oilge (»f the water. Seen from a distani'C, these have tlie appearance of open <,'reen meadow.s. On closer inspection the surface i.'- found to bo oven, modei-ately diy and tirni, and to ije covered with a growth of a liglit green papery lichen, probably a species of I'ehoyem, cranberry, trailing rasjiberry, Indian tea {L*t(hnn /,(t/iistic), itc. Be- neath tho surface is a thickness of eight or ten feet oi- lu'ire of mo.'^s, apparently some of the forms of Sj)/i(ii/iiuni ripnliUiuin or ncntifoliuiu, which is ([uite dead, in .Inly, at a depth nf a foot, the moss was found to be frozen, or lather imbedded in a solid mass of ice. On the upjier side of tho slope was a scattered yrove of spruce and larch, over- shadowing a wet mos.sy swamp, in which the .Spludjnnin was in full growth, while on its lower sid(> the mo.isy slope usually endeil on the shore of the lake in a vertical or overhanging cliff of peat, from which masses of peat were falling on the sandy beach. Several of these cliffs were clo.sely examined, and when the thin outer portion of unfrozen mess was cleared away they were found to consist of a wall of frozen moss, through which were many streaks of clear ice. These gently-sloping mossy plains wuukl seemed to have been formed somewhat in the following manner. The drainage from the higher land accumulated at the bases of the hills on soil which was either impervioup in itself oi- was rendered impervious by being permanently frozen. !Moss, small spruce an' Mode ot f" lUiltinn. .«> kit a f * • ■■> 'ft { • I'd O 44 V DOOUAl NT KAZAN AM) I Kltfil'SOX KIVKHS. Hsk.T. Kiipid. During tho KumiiuT, tin' watt r ((intiiuioM to ilniin frniu tin- higher luiuls, hut in retained along tlio upper Mtle of tii(^ frizeii iiK.ssy phiiii. Here tlie mossy swiunj* is still growing, and is constantly Imt slowly adding to the upper side of the slop., and thus increasing its area. This growth in area does not, however, go on indefinittdy. The frozen ina's seems to descend slowly, like a glacier. At the foot of the slope, in most j)laces, is a cliff of })eat whicli is constantly hreakin;,' awav, and i> kept in itsplace on the lake shore or rivt r hank only l»y the gradual descent of the moss anil ico frouj the higher grounil hchind. In some few places these mossy plains cover level, or almost level, tracts of country. These level i)ogs have heen formed very much in the same way as those on the slojx's, hy the gradual thickening of the mo-s and retirement of the line of living mossy swamp to a narrow strip on the edge of th(! hog. The masses {>{ clear ico that were seen in the faces of the cliirs of frozen moss have huen formed in the living swamps as frozen pools, or in tlie dead bog as little frozen streams o\»M' whi<;h the moss has gradually closed. I'ossihly the exn'-.udtion here given for the formation of those "tundras" may also apply to many of those in Alaska and Norlhern Siberia. TkI.ZOA HlVKH. Telzoa River Hows from Daly Jjike in two channels, the more easterly and smaller of which was the one followed. After a course of two miles and a half it opens into a small irregular lake, with low .sandy or stony .shores, the underlying gneiss showing at hut few places. At the bot- tom of the most nt>rth-eastcrly bay of this little lake is an cskor ex- tending N. 77' E. an unknown distance. It is from forty to sevent)' feet higii, and is composed of sand and gravel. In many plac<,'S it is divided, and a .small lake may lie in the hollow between its two por- tions. Looking from the sununit of the esker, the country nifty be seen to he low and sandy, svith many irregular lakes lying in the shallow- depressions, and wi, mossy fUt, or yr-ntlo slope, the lowor partof whi.li is undf'rliiiri Ity an irrov'ul'ir mass of rouiidcd tiaiisportod houldiTs. Tin- Mirt"af») is wet, and \\w inc.ss is i;io\vii)i,', thus dilVci inj,' t'lom th<^ " fossil '' Hwamp on the oppositt; Ixmk. (troves of Httintcd li!acl< spruro occur Ihmc and thcrr, the trees iit'in;,' ■'^"i"|"' from six to lit'teen feet liiyli, and iisiiaily much oxjandoil at the base. I«r.|,. LarehoH aro Hcatteied tIn'on;,di the spruce, heini,' niiifh the taUest aini largest trees in the ;,'roves. Their tninl total descent being about twenty feet. At the foot of the rapid is another small irregular lake, lying among rounded morainic hills of till atid boulders. A long point, extending into the western side of this lake, is composed of biotite-gneiss, striking X. -0' W. and dipping N. 70 K. at an angle of GO . The surface is rounded towards the east, and broken towards the west, but no glacial markings could be detected. Three miles and a half farther north, on a long low point of similar Hnul" I.^ikt gneiss in another lake, the surface is well rounded and shows strong glacial grooves trending S. 80 W. Foi- this lake the name Hinde Lake is here proposed, after Dr. George Jennings Hinde. Near the northwest shore of Hinde T..ake, Red Hill ri.ses to a height IJ'I iliH- of 120 feet, forming the most conspicuous elevation in this part of the country. It is the termination of a long esker, and is composed chieily ot small, somewhat angular pebbles, of red granite, mixed with which are larger rounded pebbles, cobbles and liouldeis. Several large angular boulders, or blocks of gneis.s, are lying half buried in the summit. Its general trend is N. 70' E. It rises more or less gradually from the a WiMI nam I'.. II »1 o 46 F DOOBAUNT KAZAN- AND FEHGLSON KIVERS. ti; ea.it-north-ea.st in a series of parallel eloiij,'cUfu overlapping hills, be- tween which are deep depressions without outlet Low sandy ridges also skirt the sides of the higher ridges. Lako trriaces. Towai'ds the west-south-west, the esker terminates in two terraces, ono above the other, of well-rounded gravel, the faces of which are as steep as the gravel will lie. The brow of the upper terrace looks as if the coarse gravel forming it had been dropped there but yesterday, tor it is \ jry loose, and does not seem to luve been disturbed at all by atmosiilieric agencies since che terrace was formed. Red Hill would, therefore, seem to have been formed at the mouth of a glac'al river, at the very face of the Kecwatin Glacier, when the foot of the glacier was bounded by a shallow lake into which the river dischar;,'ed itd sediment. From the eastern end of Eed Hill, the esker, here somewhat lower, extends as a long sand-ridge along the north- west shore of Hinde I^ake, reaching the I'iver a short distance below Ptarmigan Rapid, and afterwards extending an unknown distance into the country to the east, nr -king the line of the old glacial river, wooded with white spruce up to forty feet or more in height, which was the iirst gooil timber seen north of Black Lake. One fine even trunk, on Red Hill, measured five feet six inches in circumference two feet al)Ove the but. The surrounding low country is covered with moss or grass, or is wouded with small black spruce. Ptarmigan Rapid is a long swift chute at the outlet of Hinde Lake, down which the canoes were run one at a time, for but one of our steersmen Wi.s capable of handling a canoe successfully in such rough rapid water. Reside the rapid the rock is a well-foliated yellowish- graj' garnetit'erous gneiss, containing', in places, a considerable quantity of magnetite. Here, on the 26th of July, among some small willows, ptarmigan were seen for t'-(^ first time, hence the above name for the rapid, Below the g:ip where the river cuts throu,i;h the Red Hill esker, the stream enters a region of typical drumlius, or elongated-oval, hogs- back hills parallel to the esker, from twenty to fifty feet high, and composed of reddish-gray till and boulders. Ten miles below Ptarmigan Rajud, measured in a straight line, the river cuts through another esker, trending S. 60' W. and N. 60' E. Ic can be traced by the eye for a considerable distance, rising over the hills and descending into the depressions, being rendered very con- spicuous by its covering of tall white spruce. A short distance south of this esker is a wide ridge of boulders of granite, gneiss, i^-c, imbedded in a matrix of gray pebbly clay. The l't:inu Kai.i.l. Ksk I Moraine. ( lKni.(M;ic.\i. Si ii\ \:\ i)i ( ' \s \ii.\. N'lll.. I\., i'AliT I'. I 'I, All: III. »« •■■.y • inlv L'C). lS'.i;i 'IKiy.OA l!l\ KK, I'.KJ.OW ITAK.MICAX 1!A1'II>. K-k till' dislaiici', l^ri^!^i^_ ,1. p.. 'I'MlliKI.I. I'llnln. An-. II. IS'.I.M ;N(>\V on TMK SlKtKH ol' |)(M»I'..MN r LAKK .\t till' '.'i>i)t (.f a olitV lit' ('Miiiliriaii ( 'oii^iluiiicrati'.' rYRRElt J TELZOA RfVER. :l F ridge, which is eighty feet high, is prolonged into two ridges in a direction S. 20' E. It undoul^tedly forms part of the moraine that extends north-westward of the asker for se\eral miles, the general trend of the morainic hills heing transverse to the direction of the esker. Just below the esker, the river flows in a heavy rapid between these morainic hills, and the sides of the channel are formed of walls of ar.gular fragments of rock, piled up and sh'ived back by the ice of the spring. At the foot of the rapid the river opens into a lake twenty-one Buyd Lake, miles long and of undetermined width, here called Boyd Lake, in memory of the late Honouraljle John Boyd, Lieutenant-Governor of New Brunswick. The moraine extends northward into Boyd Lake, forming a number of low stony islands and shallow stony shores which are very difficult to approach with a canoe. The stones are for the most part angular, and seem to be all of Laurcntian granite and gneiss. Another esker crosses the lake through this moraine, forming a chain of sandy islands among the stony ones, and extending in a long sandy ridge on both sides of the lake. We had now reached the northern edije of the forest, and hence Nortluni idtrc forward any timber seen on this river was in the form of scattered " ' " • and often widely separated groves. With the disappearance of this stunted forest, mossy plains and bogs also almost entirely disappeared, and they were nowhere found to extend beyond the extreme northern limit of trees. The .shores of the southern portion of Boyd Lake rise in long shores <.f slopes to heights of from a hundred to a hundred and lifty feet, and ^'^' ^''^'^^'• the beach is composed largely of more or less angular fragments of rock, further north the shores rise to low elevations or stony hills, with a matrix of gray pebbly clay. Islands are numerous, and are composed largely of boulders, more or less rounded, usually arranged in ridges parallel to the long axis of the lake. The boulders are of whitish or red granite, or gray or red gneiss, but among them was found one pebble of stratified Paheozoic limestone. No rock in place was seen around the lake, or for some distance X(j mck sttn. north or south of it, but doubtless the countiy is underlain by Laurcn- tian rocks. Two miles below Boyd Lake, camp was pitched on the ^arren Lands Cainp o!i for the first time, and we were obliged to search the shoie-o for pieces l^'^'''" Landi. of drift-wood for fuel. Among the boulders at this camp were a few small ones of white quartzite and fine red and white unaltered sand- ifi'iia in t.u II >.■' .J 48 F I;0OHAUNT KAZAN AND FERGUSON RIVERS. (llU'i.Sh. ■*: stone. For seven miles below Boyd Lake, measured In a straight line, the river winds around hills of boulders, with a rapid at every bond, and then, in the bottom of the valley, is the first exposure of rock seen for many miles. It consists of a red, well-foliated hornblende-biotite- gneiss, striking N. 47 E., and dipping N. 43° W. at ar. angle of 25". The surface is well smoothed and strongly scored with parallel glacial crooves trendinir S. 5 E., the direction of motion being clearly indicated by the rounded northern and broken southern surfaces, the latter pointing up the river. Three miles and a half further down the stream, througii a low- lying country, diversified by little hills of sand, boulders and broken rock, is another exposure of the underlying rock, consisting of a gray evenly foliated hornblende-gneiss, striking N. 20' "VV , and with almost vertical dip. Its surface is smooth, and well marked with gla.-ial grooves trending 8. SO W. A few small groves of black and white spruce and larch grow beside the river in this vicinity. For the next five miles the river tlows in devious channels, usually with a swift current, at one place breaking into a swift rapid, down which it was necessary to run the canoes one at a time. The banks are gently roinided stony slopes, partly green with grass and moss. Hiirliiw Tiiikc. In north latitude (il' .")3' the river enters Barlow Lake, so called in memory of Mr. Scott Barlow, formerly chief draughtsman to the Geological Survey of Canada. It seems to be shallow, is sixteen miles long, from two t': four miles wide, and, like most of the other lakes on this river, is dotted with islands. On one of the islands, five miles from the south end of the lake, is a low rounded boss of coarse white biotite-granite. Its surface is well smoothed, a!id shows strong glacial grooves running S. 50" W. Two miles further north, on some other islands, are ridges of Iwuldcrs extending southward from highest points at their northern ends. .Stoiiv li The country around the southern portion of the lake is a gently un- dulating prairie, while farther north a marshy border extends along the western shore stretching back to a ridge of stony hills from 100 to 200 feet in height. One of these hills near the north end of the lake, was found to l)e \:V) feet hisjh, and to trend S. GO' W. Its sides and summit are covered with sub-angular boulders, often very large, some- times imbedded in a reddish-gray clay, Init sometimes tumbled together without any matrix. They are chielly of reddish gneiss, coarse red porphyritic granite and white granite, but some are of green diabase ight line, 3ry bond, rock seen le-biotite- eo£ 2o\ ,t;I ghici.'il indicated he latter ;h a low- d broken vi a gray th aiaio.st ;h gla>';ial rch grow channels, 'ift rapid, me. The graf-!5 and called in Lii to the een miles ■ lakes on ve miles rse white h" fjlacial line other !st points lently un- lids along Ini 100 to the lake, sides and ;e, sonie- toirether jarse red ii diabase ...J TELZOA RIVER. 49 F and red (|uartz-p(>rphyry. From tho u>p ot' tlie liill several other similar ridges, some probably from 200 to 3fir (rrati- I'.aiifii- landi('ui^), movins; alony the east shore. W(> at once paddled towards ^''".'J" the land, anfl found the deer standing on low wet grassy land near the water, at the foot of .i long stony slope It was iKtw nearly six weeks since w(> had left our last base of supplies at Fort Chipposvyan, and our provisions were rapidly diminish- ing, so that the question of how to atld to our stock had begun to be a serious one, if we were to continue our journey into the wilderness. Here were deei' in abutidance, and near at hand was a grove of small black .spruce and tamai'ack, which would furnish fuel to smoke and dry as much meat as we could carry. The following extract from ray daily journal, with the photographs in front of tlu^ report, will give a fairly clear idea of the number of deer seen :■ — • " July 30. — Yesterday was the first clear warm tlay that we had had for a long time, but to-day is also clear and warm, with a gentle breeze blowing from the west. We spent the day skinning and cutting up the fattest of the bucks that we had killed yesterday. Our camp is a it i..n» II iKl I.;... •'I 50 F DOOUAUNT KAZAN AXU KKKCiDSON RIVEHS. Extriut from hundred yards from tlio lako. near the edge of a hoj;, with a scattered juuiiui. gj.Qve of larch and small Shick spruce just behind us. All day the caribou have been around us in vast numbers, many tliousands being collected together in single herds. One herd collected on th« hill behind our camp, and another re"'.ained for hours in the wot bog on the jjoint in front of us. The little fawns were running about everywhere, often coming up to within a yard or two of us, uttering tlieii' sharp grunts as they stood and looked up at us, or as they turned and ran back to the does. About noon a large herd had collected on the sides and sunniiit of the hill behind us. Taking the small hand-camera with which we were supplied, we walked quietly among tlnMu. As we approached to within a few yards of the dense herd, it opened to let us in and then foi'med a circle around us, so that we wei-e able to si and for a couple of hours ai\d M'atch the deer as they stood in the liglit hreeze, or rubbed slowly past each other to keep off the black llii's. The bnclcs, with their beautiful '.-ranohingaiitlei's, kej)t well to the l)ackground. We obtained a numl)er of photogra)>lis, which show the animals in many positions. Later in the afternoon a herd of bucks trotted up to us, and stood at about forty yards distance. This was a most beaut,iful sight, for their horns are now full growji, though still soft at the tips, but unfortun- ately we had nol the camera w-tli us. We did not shoot any to-day. "July .'U. — To-day was again beautifully varni, with a breeze from the south, but we hud a s: TYHfltlL ] TELZOA lilVKi;. 51 K which hickly idt'd in Int. the Irruces, |uieter, some- quite ' liins. liter- la rt of s.'J i more <,'fntlo slopes. In vret weather they are covered with .liallow pools of water. The mode of their fmiiiation is not very apparent, but it is probably by a sliding of the upper clay over the frozen subsoil. "A meridian observation of the sun today f,'ave us a latitude f.2 !>' 24". " August 1st. — We are still obliged to remain in camp for the pur- ](0se of drying the .iu!at we liavc on hand. The weather eoniiraies warm and tlry, th )Ugli mosquitoes are very trouble.some. "Immediately after dinner we went over to the point two miles '-'^^i"" I'lint. noi'th-west of camp. The point is a long sloping ridge loO feet high, trending .\. 7o K. Its sides and summit are scattered with bnulders, chiefly of red granite, and on its very ci'est is a huge lujulder of coarse red p irphyritic gi'anite lune feet high. (Jn top of tliis boulder we erected a cairn, under which we jjut a bottle with a short record of our trip, and a map of our course so far, so that, should any mishap befall the party in tiie count.y farthei' north, our friends may learn of our safe arrival here. Over the cairn we planted a small I'nidn -lack. " Although the surface of the hill is coinposed largely of bouklcrs inil)edded in a yellow sandy till, I found one nutcrop of coarse red granite containing lai'ge ci'ystals of pyrite. The surface of the granite showed distinct glacial stria- trending S. S.") \V. " No caribou have come near our camp to-day, but we siiw a few when over on tla; j)oint. "Aug. L'nd. — The morning was gloomy, but tl;i' sun came out for a little wiiile, so that we could pack our dried meat in bales, and by nine o'clock we were olf." Temj)eratui'e of the water in the open lake 51 F. Two miles north-east of Cairn Point is a shallow strait, with stiff' current, connecting wider expansions of the lake. For four miles beyond this strait the north-east shore is marshy or grassy, and then, near the mout'u of a small brook, it is broken by morainic bould'er I'idges a hundred feet in height, the edge of the grassy plain and the foot of the hills meeting in a fairly weil-dellned line running S. 8.")' E. The individual boulder-ridges lie in parallel lines extending S. 7"/ W. A few exposures of rock on the sides of the ridges show that some of them have cores of red granite similar to that of Cairn Hill. At the mouth of the brook is a small grassy glade, wooded with Lur. white spruce, one tre(> of which was fifty feet high and thirty inches in diameter, two feet above the butt. Under the trees were ferns, rasp- berry bushes, etc., t)ie last that we were destmed to see that summer. Wnv.'.h I'iiljr ■-. .J .•J J.;... I .A 52 K nOOHAUNT KAZAN AND KKHrUSOX lUVERS. I'.ai'c r(«,'L\- 11 ' (Ihiuial i-Xr'uv. East uf this brook is ii liill ot' l)iU(', rrd. whitiHli-weatherinj,' granite, ilic lirst hill oi liacc iiubrokon rock th.it wr hail siM-n tor a bin;,' time. < >» its soutii sith^ nve several points on wliit'li liouldcrs have been piled by the ico in walls from ei;,'ht to tented high, the bases ot' th(! boulder-walls beiiii; beneath the water. Opposite to it, on the cast liore, is a low point ol' rrd hornblrnde-um-iss, the surtfU'ti of which is well scored by glacial s,M'ooves trendinu' W. ()ii tlu; northern slutre, the whole country is one yreat stretch of an;,'ular fragments of ooar.se red granite broken from the underlying rock, between which there m very seldom any matrix of clay, sand or pebbles. At the foot • f Carey Lake is :i i ed t,riinitc, the >unimit of whieh is .-.moo 'oui.ded hill, ninet}' feet high, of tlied, and strongly coarse r marked by glacial groo\e.s trending 8. 1!U Jv, while any vertical sur- faces facing W.8. W. and trending tf..S.E. are /viiished and fluted. The iiorrh(M'n side of the liill i.s rounded, while the -^lU-thern side is rough and broken. Tiif-'c is also anoticr l-tter -et of groo\es and striie, 0 w.. dl Kiint- stiou.ue well nil tie ingiier polisiicd pan.del to most of tiie others seen on tliis pai have not affected the genera! shape of this rOeky hill to the same and trend I ni;' >^. i'^ t of the I'iver ; but thi' 'xtent the earlier stru. Dioritc. I'.elow Carey Lake is a heavy rapid three miles long with a descent of about tiftydivi! feet, the upper poiaion of which is divifled by a low stony is'and. On the west bank, opposite the foot of tiie island, is a low hill of coarse augen-gneiss striking X. 4U .'•'. Jielow the rapid the ri\er continues to ilow in a north-ea.sterly ilirection for .several ith stony giassy slopes to the sorith-etist, wliile to the nonh- Uiilt'^, w ler tine-yrainei west is a glaciated rocky shore, underlain by a rati greenish red-\ve;ithering epidotic iiornbleiide-L'neiss, striking N. ."■> K. but strongly jointed S. 70 Iv Its surface is well marked widi glacial >tria' running S. <'^5 W. The rea -weathered gneiss extends to a point eight m'.les Im'Iow Cuiey Lake, where, at a hill ninety feet h.^h, it is I'eplaced b^ a m-e;sivedark greenish-gray mrdium-grained diorite, cimtaining large crystals of plafdoclase, a small amount of (|uartz, a lar;re (piantity of pyrite anil a small amount of sphcne. It is cut by se^•eral thick veins of white quartz and red rather fim pegmatite. Thegor.r;-! surface and sum- mit is covered with glacial ^/rooves and stria' trending >S. 87^ W., Imc some lee surfaces near (he summit show str'^>ig glacial grooves running oouth, and a beautifully polished surface of quartz was covered with fine striae running in tl.L same direction. ii;r./ii.\ liivK.ii. 53 r 'I'lif tlioritf contiiiuej aldi.:,' tli.> iiortli-wesl >-\u>n' fnr twn riiilfs. wliilu till' ojiposite south-east shore is alsr. high, ami \\\r iiills scTncd to have cores t)i thi- same lock. Kiit their sides are sloping and with venlure. i'(ivi'r(»(i ica! sur- At the next rapid, tlie diorite is replaced by a iiieiHum-Lrralned led I'.i'.MtfgiuMHs hi()tite-giieis>. This gneiss coiuiriues to t'oriu the shore for two miles, to a i)oitit, where it strikes N. 7(j i:. and clips S. liO K. at an angle of 10 . N'orth of this point the liver opens into .Markham Lake, so M.ulsli.mi called after Admiral A. 11. Markh.un. the wellknoun Arctic exj.lorer, '''''"'■ who has always taken such a hxely interest in an\- .'xploiMtions in Hudson I'ay aiul the adjoinin:; lounlrv. The Miuthern jiorlion of its west shoi'c, along which we coasted, is low and grassy, heitig at first sandy and afterwards strewn with boulders. It then becomes roi>kv, ri-ing to low bare hdls of dark- gray hi,'hly hornblendic gneiss, striking in an east-north-easterly direc- tion, and dipjiing south-south-east at an angle of 1') , cut l)y many both wide and narrow anastomosinj; veins of white pegm.atitic granite. The surface is scored l)y ulacial grooves trendinu' S. S.') W. Continuing northw ard, the points are low, and are composed of similar horni)lende-gneis.s, cut by granite veins, but at some distance back the country rises to higli bare rounded lockj- hills, trenched by deep gorges, in .some of which the snow of the previous winter was >till lying. The east shore is an even Lri'as.sy slope, without boulders, fiescending to a sandy beach. Xear the outlet of the lake, on its west shore, is a rounded hill 115 feet high, the sunnnit of which is composed of rather coai'se gneiss, with very irregular strike, svhile on a point near the water's edge is a finely foliated light greenish-gray biotitegraiute-gneiss, the hiotite, which is in small amount, being largely altered to chlorite. The river flowing from ^larkham Lake is wide, and occasionally rather shallow, with a swift c'o'ient. After a course of a mile and a half, it empties into the south-east side of Nicholson Lake, so :;;o1iw1.m,ii called in honour of Professor II. A. Nicholson, formerly professor of '''"'• Natuial History in Toronto L'niversity, and now of the L'niversity of Aberdeen. 'J'he shores of this lake seemed to be almost everywhere sloping and grus.sy, though at its south end are several small groves of sj)ruce and larch, and a few tlcad trunks are standing on the western shore. On a larw island near the nnddle of the lake is a sandv ridge about 200 feet high, with steeply sloping grassy sides, without boulilers tt«Mlr ,cl» ...I, :,;;i Id 5-1 F UOOUACNT R\y..\S WD KKUUDSOM UIVKUS. CiiiiilirdSi ian iiuthrr. it Fossils, It is possible that this ridije is a kaiiie, ivHsociiitfil wirli one of tli.- tPi'miiuil moraines of tlu^ Kt>t'W(vtiu u'l-'i'''''!'- Xnrlh west- ot' tliis liUL,'t' isliiiid m'(t some smallt>f .)m«s witli stfcp Willis of l)uulil(is piled ii]! ten fei't lii^'h aioiiiid tlioiii. Wiiilo piiddliuK tliroiii;li tliesp islands we wcic strmU I'V the !i|ipe!iriinrn of a small white island standing' out distinctly ainon^' liio suiToiuidinu lediiish III- Olios. This island shttws at its south end a low outcrop, exteiidiiii,' for iL'O yaids l)i^Iiiiid the heaoh, of tine and even j^rained welllio(Uled Canil)ro Silurian (Ti'enton) liniesloti(\ strikin',- south and tlil'ping west at an aimle of 20'. The lowei- Deds are .-.(.mew liat more art;illaeeous, and maiiv fi'aguients of a limestone coni,doiner'at(» were lyini,' ahout, hut the parent l)ed of the coiii^'lomerate was not seen, Fossils svero scarce and rather dillicult to extract, l)ut Mr. L. M. Land)0, of this Sui'vey, has kindly furnished the followinLf notes on the few that were collected. '* Cii/iiiiiniirid n/ret)/(dn,y {\i>kU. Three hi^ddy silicilied t^peciniens, and some fragments, with the stiucture of the corallites as seen in natural transverse sections well pieserved. A comparison of the specimens with the type of this species as (i^uicd l>y (loklfuss in the P'.ti-'fticfa (lirnuiniii, pi. xxiv., Ii;,'s. "a, l>, f, leave.'^ no doubt as to the identity of the Nicholson Lake fossil. *' S/i''pt''/itsin(i fii/ifiriiiii, V>\\\. A poorly preserved specimen and two fragments, in which the structure is obscured b}' conci'i^tionary silicitication. This vtiral is, on account of its poor state of preservation, referred with some hesitation to liilliiiys's species, considered by its author as typical of the Hudson Uiver ,i;foup. ^^ Caldpiiria Canadensis, Ihll. Hue .'^ilicitied specimen, of irre,i;ular shape, measuring; about four and a half inelies at its greatest breadth, and aliout an inch and a (juarter in thickness : i( is a portion of what was evidently a much la.,i,'er mass. The numerous pores are .shown well in longitudinal sections and the tabuhe are noiinal in sluqie and disposition, as is aho the irregular taliulate structure! betwet^n the corallites. '■^ Orthin liinlAnluiaria, Dalman. Two small single valves, a dorsal ami a ventral, with rather strong plications ; the laiger of the two is 7"0 mm. high, and 8'") mm. broad. " This interesting exposure, only a few acres in extent, is doubtless an outlier of the Arctic Paheo/.oic basin. It was the only Paheozoic limestone seen north of tl:e tributaries of the Saskatchewan River dur- ing the sunnner of 1803, but probably the sanu' oi' similar beds occur TKI.Zn.V ItlVKR. r>5 F ill tlio vioiiiity Mrrmiln'r riuitli, t'oi- litni'stono liouMors weiv frciiuoiitly t'dUinl >cai tf'O'il .imniiy- thiof ot' :,'f)iriitc ami >,'iieis.s. I'rniii tlip iKPilli .'iiil of N'icliols.m l,;il<<'. tlic v'wvv tlosvs iioitliwiuil t-.r twii mill.-, iiml a liiilt' duwii a licavy rapid, with a dosoonl ot' aliniit forty t'ft't, rowai'ds tlic Ituttoin of wliidi tin.- liaiik is t'ormcd l)ya'mii|il clilifs i>t" Vfildi.sli sandy till llllt'd with iMUildcrs, and steep wall- of red t, deep, the hanks iteini,' eomposed of hori- zontal rev Idish gray j.'iieiss, \vhil(( sevr>ral narrovs- eskor-like rid^fes of sand ami lioulders run down tlio valley parallel to the vidfs. < »n the steep llillsidos Wi'i'e some Mn;dl irroves of white spruoo, tlio last tiiat .ve were to see that simmiei', while the liuie patehes of snow hei'e a,nd there in every direetion would have kept us roininded tiiat we had reached ji .^uli-arctie elimaie, if the .almost fonstanl eold rain and wind had i!f>t, made us thoi'ouL;hly alive to the fact. On the hillsides Arctic hare-; were seen foi' tlm lir,- -i time. The ri\cr then hreomes nioie dilVuse and irroi^ular, and aft(_'r tlow- in^; for seNcral miles, lireaks up into a immljer of chaniiels, just as it tillers an ohionj,' lake. This lake lies north-and-soutli, and is foui- and a half miles Ion;;. The tomperature of its water on Aui,'ust 5th, was ■17 I"'. At its south end tli(^ shores are moderately hi^di, hut they gradually decline towards I lie north, until at its nortli end is an exteii- si\e levi 1 green plain with no hills in sight. The points on the west shore are eomposed of I'eddisli-gray gneiss. At one point this gneiss is cut iiy a dyke, ahout 1 iD feet wide, ruimiiu' S. {')0 E., of medium- gr.iined dark-gray dialase, much of the augite in which is altered to hornl)iende, and containing also a considerable ([uantity of magnetite. The Tel/oa l\i\ei' tlows from the east side of th(> ohiong lake, in a Will deilni'd channel trom iiHJto l.'i.H) yards wide. Jtsbaidvsof red till and boulders, arc; low and sloping, and rise to a wide grassy plain. On the north bank of tiie ri\or. half way between the above lake and Doobaunt Lake, is the last grove of black spruce on the river, where the trees are so stunted that they are not as high as one's head. Hehind the grove is a low hill of massive red hornblende-granite, the surface of which is moderately well smoothed and rounded, but neither here, nor for some distance 'oa. k up the river, was I able to detect any ghicia! stri;". From the top of this liill Doobaunt Lake could be seen lying to the east of us, apparently covered with a solid sheet of ice. Back from the river is a stony plain, parts of whicli weie whitened by the flowers a\ \ r;»|ili Mn/il Last. titiibf TdVC (if J- h m •;;3 'i i:.!'! mm' '• •;■::> 50 K liUUllAlNT R.V7.AN AMi 1KK<.1 .•<0\ UITKIiS. of the Lahrftdnr ten ([.•(hitn pnhintf') m' llic \v| itc tiisscl'^ nf (lie Hiieiiinrie (Amihitn' fiitn'ljfi. ni ), wliilc iiiiiiiv ot' ilic kiiolN wen- piiil wi til tlic licfuitit'iil littli' ttiiwci's of liliKilixI'ii'ii /. iiiKiii irinii. iiilc iinrili of tliis siuiitid ci'ovc. risiiii,' alrupl iy oui i>r' tin- |i|(iin, is slicpi't, saiidv rKii.'*' or c.^kc?' iiiriniiiLr 7(1 W V\yU llwl In 111 fncr ()|i|M)sii(' t 111' !,M'y the Chippewyan Indians it is called T o-h'o'-t'ua or Water-shore Lake, possihlyfrom the fact that the main i>ortionof the lake is ab covered with ic(>, ami that in su miner there is a lane of water hetw ay.s een thi s ice and tiie liore Its Kski mo name is s Tul eiiialui'ui. from suhsequent Eskimo reports, it 1 udging lias two |iriiicipal allluents. One las scattered "roves of white of them Hows into its southern side, ami 1 spruce (m it.s hanks. The otliei- is the Dool.aunt or Tel which we had descended. Eleven davs W(>re siient on the lake, d zoa H iver uriii" live of which we were unahle to move on account or lieavv storms. given is confined to those portions of the west tl ["he description here ein and northern .shores xplored on the remaining six dav-. while enuM^ed in tl le searc h f or Its outlet. iMK(ii.\rM r. \Kr.. Tlic Diinldiunt KiviT llow.s ititu the \ri--t -iiic of \\v !,kk<' in nurlli liiti- tudi' it'2 ■"».*), iiiid iifjir its inoutii is u Idw i^lainl nf i I iuiii-'MMiiifd rcil iHlnml jfiuMHs Mtrikiiiu nortli iin]iin;,' west iit an uiiirlf < f' to. nnscmc j,'»'iit!y slnpiiiy siiit'iicf.-. lilt' j;lni'iiil j^'i'uuvt'h wt-rt- wi'il >[u>\\ n ruiiniiii,' S. S7 W. Tl, Dily lit' the liikf was cuvcrcl with ici' ami nvciluiiiL,' wiili mist, If., si» that. \vt' wore nil. ill).' to jiaddlc out iii'n it. lait t urniii',' iinithwai'd in a cliannt'l (if()|pt'ii witfc. wr tuund that tJic .sli.irc tiw a sliuil distaii •• was rathrr hi^di and fra'.'<'V. and iJicii it and the inai \\( ly iiutlyinj.; island.'- It; (|iiiti' low and sl(»|M'd t,'t'ritly to t- f watci'. 'I'lii' poinLs wen; all ■•I'i'ii on t he I'liumli'ii (lomposfd ol' L'lay, or rcddi-h ;,'fay, u'nt'i:tern sides (it' hills were liroken into angular hloeUs. On one lioss ;,'!aeial yriuivos were found trcndin;,' N. NO W. The siir- I'nilltlt of KLi'-i^.". rouiidiiii; eminti'v is a stony jilain eoiniiox lii'tly of an^'iilar Mocks lirokrn from till' underlyin:,' rock, anion:,' which arc scattered a few lioulders (if while llunmian s/indstone, r'd ("am'nian ro> ks and linlit- leslone. The -urtaceof the plain is am V unaltered Camliro-Silurian lin •ly covered with |'ra^s in luinclus and with spar; like lichen. (Aluc.h. hi; icK and 'I'een liair. rii> (I I ririi<'ii.< am ■/ifi'/- IH'Hl'llI'' il''il . d! 1 oin t, nine niilc-i north of the ri\cr, i^ im irreiridar pcnin.'^iiia T'ull I'.iint. pl'iijectinu several miles out into the lake. ( >n tlii> poim is a ronmh d hill a hiiiidi'(Hl feet hi^'h, nndcrlain hy a line-u'raiiied red altei'ed felspathic sandstone or arkose. Tt is ehietly composed of more or le-s rounded f,'riuns of ipiartz ecniented toi^'eiher hy interstitial silica. With the (juart/ ^fraiiis are many of orthoclase, a few of plagioelase, soiin! Hakes of mica altered to chlorite, pyrite in small culiical crystal.s, the edges (if wliich are altered to linioiiite, and a few irreijular ;(rains of sphene. linnninij N. •'^0 E., and c.vtendin!;' down the south sid(( of the hill, is a widi^ ferrnyinous liand cut hy many narrow veins of (piartz. This sandstone douhlless represents .some of the basal lieds of .\tlMl.asca mukI.-Iiiiic. th .\t: lalKisca series o f the Camhrian. which series was aft erwar(3S found to have such an (extensive development towards the north and east, and I'oohaiint i.ake would seem to add one more to the numlx-r of lar''e CanaiJian lakes that li» III'' the contact of the Archa'an gneisses a: sc hist- aiu 1 tl ic o\i'riVinL' i Hlieozoic ->>■!. hcds The ice was foumi to he jiacked solid auain^t Teal! I'oint, so that it was nec(\ssarv to eiuh'avour to Hnd .some way of passing behind it. At length a place was found where two bay.s, one from the south and the other from the north, almost met beliin<] tlie peninsula, being separated only by a narrow neck of land a hundred and fifty yards wide, over il,!.';Ul\,-t I lie liiHllt. Which the ■'J ■i ':;3 .iMt .J n 1 1,.— ... •• caiiot's wiM'e cai'ried Ot V DOOHAUM' IvAX AN AND l'KR(?t.'SUN KIVKKS. if au'.rili'- iiinifttt'. schist. ir„irirc. Thrci' miles wosi >'t' the iilxivfMlescfiluHl (Urulzite liili, in the liottom )f M. sliailow bav. is an outcrop of liirliL-'fay ,i,n'aiuilar h.oute-ufiieiss (l.aiiifntian) strikinu' X- SO „M(I 01 ippiiiu' 8. 10 at ati aiiLJ 1(1 of )0 It IS CI ir l)v a (Ivkf, si\ feet wiuc. riJiiiuuii' alou^ tlicsti-iici; ■.f th ii"iss, (,f ;i c'oiuvo il;irk-^'raiiicii ,:,M'ay aniiit'-iuiin'ftt'. cuiitaiiiiiiu- lii()tit(^ loi'iiliic L'fV'i^tals, aiui iiia aenlitc, alsu in lar^^'e s, iinbcdtlt'il in aiuairix of I'oai'selv crvstallino ortho- 111 iH'Mi-'l-nllS iai':;t' Kl'.Mii UUOIlU) i[i!iii' i-rysVal ise. Soim- small particit's < I]' s;>i pent iiio are I'oiisid'M'i'd l)y Prnfcssor F. 1). Ailaius u> \h' ail alteration pvoiluct i>f ihf malacolito. .Maiiv liiK! laiu'i' ci )r(!si'ril. r\stals ot a[iatit(' ami a. Miiali aMuuiui (.r l>yril(' arc also < »n a iHiiut a short distiinco further west i.s an outcrop of tliinly foliated !i^lit-i:;reeii sericitic scliist, very similar to many of the scliists so common in thi' Jhironian, hut wluMliei this schist IS Iviureutian or llui-oiiian was jkj!: dcllniLely di'ti'rmiiicd. Nortl. Ill the neck of the [leninsiila I'le .-liore, with ihe exception of some distant hills, is low .-uid sl.'ues iisntlv to the waier. A small islaml, Ivniu' aomi rrai 1 three miles norih nt ihe ueck, consists of a liiie- ned thin and eseiily foliated light ,u;ray-museovito gneiss, striking S. SO ami (11 ppiii'^ N. 10 I'i. at an angle > f tiO Seven miles north of th e nee we landed ^n the low north-western siioro, riii\ round i t to ! le I'omposei 1 of red ! noi il^-Liiu iss foliiited X. -tO° E. rouiuled hil! aiioui I'OO feet. iiii. I'leliind ilie Ix'ueh is a stony and mus.sy Hat extending hack to a li. iirohahly eomjiosed of dark green (liorite lake, d ieiic(> north-west wii'd a hi<''i ri iIl;'- runs parallel lo the (>scending wiiii a l)t>aiitiful e\en green .-lopf to a ■>andv heaeh al^ the idgeoi ilie watrr. The crest of the ridge alone seemed to he rough with l)ould,ers or iVa^'iiieuts ot mck, r\ le point souih cast of the moiuh of Suii-et t'reek is of a \erv coarse granite, wnh lar ee I'lleliocrvsts ot orth oclase. 111 contact with a d.irk- gray mica.-dioritc, sliowiiig riule ophitic structure, composed chiefly of plagioelasf! and biotite. the latter mostly altered to chlorite, with accessory pale green hornblende, r stri; runmiu \. SO \V Sunset Crc Th e ice was pu died close around this point, and hearing the soutu of a rapid in tiie bottom of the bay we turned toward of iind Ls It in tho liopt iiig some willows for fuel, .\rriving at Sunset Creek, we found it to be a torrential 1 )rook, swollen bv the recent rains, liowinii; from a DOOmfN'T LAKF". !) K Wide 'Tt'iMi vaiH'v that e.tteiuls towards tlic iifirtli vrt'st. It was ji lunit Imt a thirty i'ct't wiilo ;it, tht; swiftest jxirts. No willows wcti^ totunl smoky tiffi wax mailc with ijfccti dwarf liirdi ( II Inhi .jht mhilosn. j Thr in'xt luoriiiiii,' tiie if- liad iiio.cd a slmit distauco oil' tlu' |ioiiit, k'jiv'iiif 11 clear rhfiniicl of water around it. 'J'he shori> east of the |(iiiit iiiiuii.ams imicli tl \e sane eliariii'ter as 1,1 'f, ire, ileseeiKlitiir iii a loDU' i^'reeii slope to a sandy heaidi. Aft we left it and .-triiek acrnss to a lar: er tiillowiii:: ;i inr a sliori thstaiice ;e islaiiil. w as reaelieil near t he imddlti o t lis southern II i'V>' the Athabasca ser les was a^aiii ^tolli'. eneoiintere(l, ill the form of II coarse am line red conulomerate, inter hetldcd witli layers of haid ird ([iiutzii ie diale, moitlcd with :,Meen strejaks and hkiielies. TIh^ liner Weds ar(M'()nNtantly eoM-red with riiiplt^ marks, and occasiDiially stii>w stm I'rai d T le\ I insist ot anij:ular am suh-aiii^idar irrams (;f (jiiart/ ami telsjiar, with a tew stales ot hiolite ifiihedded in a tine-yrained matrix stained hmwii with iron oxide. Tlu whole series is well bedded, striking S. lU W. and dipping 8. f>() 10 at an angle of I'o . ■■•■I, :l .Ml •J Tn the next mile .1 a (piiirter the conglomerate -^iHMns to turn rou nd 'raduallv and sti'iki' alonn' the shore, but at the sou th-east loint .f tl le island it si rikes >. ^t and (iMi- X. 70 Iv at an aiiLiie of h The centre of th(^ island rises in a ion:;- munded hill to a height of IS a clear even gras>y ] 100 feet, on the top of whicli shore, of this and the adjoining islands llii> b.i^es of tl covered with an accumulation of o!tl snow and Ice. irairie On tl le •I ill s were ottt'll ( )n an islaui llV(> 1 iiile-. farther tnward.s th(> norrh-east, tin- coiiglom I >vkc mttimj- erate is verv coarse, with p' ■bbl es a toot I ir mure in diameter, and is cut bv a dvke lifteen bet w idv' of dark-green liiu'-grained diabase running N. iiO K. (."lose to the co alniKst to the hanlne-s of a graiiili ntact the conglomerate is altered he diabase is very much deom- posed. Tn a mii'roscopic section it is si'cn to be an interlocking mass of cry.stals, or line laths, of plagiudase, mixed with larger crystals, fre-juently much eloiigate(l, of au-ile, altered to chlorite. IJesides there are long and large crystals of apatite, a large ipiantity of ilmenite, often in skeleton crystals, and a littlr (piart/. Oil the point of an island t wo mi les farthi'r north is ati outcrop of niaimsr, a coal's e lii,dit-giay tvpical and rather fre.sli diabase, composed of stout latl -shaped crysial if au'die. .some of which are altered to horniileiuh un d some hirge particles i*i iron or(> 1-rom this piiint of diabase ve ran six milrs north-westward to the ][jii,„g.ii,i bottom of a bav, whdv camp was pitched n\\ a L'l'assy slop.- beside a ■7 X, I !■'. I'. I O GO F DOOnAUN'T KAZAN AND FKUCiCSO?; KIVEHS. 111 Hitrhlv- altt'iv,'! Xt<: pDi'ipliyry. San.ly lit'uiiisula. hill of gray rrifissive gabbro. Tliis Iiill is%vell rDundcd ami shows three fairly ilistiuct sets of tflacial i;iuoves atul siriiv. The earliest set, well shown iu polished protecJed grooves, runs S. liU W. Another set runs ]Sr. 50' W., while the nortli-west side of the hill is rounded and strouu'ly scored with grooves and striie running S. 20 E. On 'granite island three miles further cast, the only strin' distinctly shown were those running 8. 20 ^^'. Tlii> suri'ounding country is a well-grassed undulating sandy plain. Two miles south-west of camp is what would seem to be a moditied kame or esker. It consists of two rounded knolls or hills of sand and gravel, a mile aiiart, connected by a low sandy ridge running N. oO E. The norih-casteru knoll is ;ibout 200 feet high, and the other ;100 feet high, the latter rising as a rountled knoll sixty feet above a level ter- race around it, which was pi-obably fui-nicd in one of the '"irlier stages of Jiyper-Doobaunt Lake. 'J'hree miles and a half north-easu of camp, across the plain, is a group of hills iibout 300 feet high, more or less connected by the 240- fily coherent rock composed of grains of ([uartz with a few of felspar, ccnented by a large amount of olialce- donic ([uartz, which is stained red by iron oxide. Some of the (piartz g-ains show secondary (>idargement, the .secondary silica showing the same orientation as the |.riin;irv. 'i'lie highly altered conglomer.ite outci'ojis on the shoi'e of the lake at a point two miles farther east, where it is cut by a vertical dyke running east and-west, of light-red (piartz-porphyry, with microcrystal- line grouu(imass. coloured red by minute partides of iron ore, and showing a distinct tlow-structure. It contains phenocrysts of felspar which are largely decomposed, and are often replaced by calcite ; and grains of (juartz, showing uneven extinction, with very irregular rounded outlines. These (piartz grains are broken by nuiny minute cracks, and are usually corroded, the groundmass sending irregular tongues into the (pi.iitzes. The groimdmas^ contains fewer ferrites, and conse(piently is lighter in colour, ai'oumi the pli(>noci'ysts. To the .s.juth of the tjuartz-piu-phyry is a peninsula underlain by red gneiss and coarse green galibro, on which are hills of horizontally stratitied loose sand, often around a core of sandv till. DOOliAUXT LVKK. Gl P Fi'om tliis outcrop tl;.' conglomerate, ot'ttMi showing' a disHnct, hori/ontivl bedding, extend-^ eastward .'.loii!' tli(> shi.re for tl and then retires t'ntra the edye of tin iree ii lies JtKi', From the foot of the I'idi^r' r)f con!,domerate t!ie shore then tun south-eastward, foi- ten miles, to a long point. For the first t wo miles the aru 1 d escends in a long grassy slope, south of which is liroiiiinent point of roundini houitlers, [uobaMy morainic. In tlie .M,,rmu,. bottom of a bay east of this point, aud on the liank of a small brook, is a rougn morainic ridge, forty feet higii, of boulders of ri, though they are not \ery strong or distinct. At the bottom of the bay east of the peninsula are low exposures of red biotite-granite, while three-(iuarters of a mile inland, up a gentle sandy slope* broken by a few granite knolls, is a conspicuous hill eighty feet high, composed, on the south side, of a massive red quartz-porphyry , ^^^.^^.^,_. or rhyolite, consisting of a micro-crystalline granitoid groundma.ss, P">'l'''y.y :">fl through which is scattereil an abundance of ferrite particles, and a ;iudes:iii(U >h(i"i'. G2 V DOOHALM KAZAN' AND KKmiUSON RIVKU8. except that the felspar is liei'e a pljigiodase. Hoth tlieae rocks are strongly jcjinteil and break duwn into mural clitl's. Throu,i(h the middle of the hill, between the rhyolite and andesite, is a depression tilled with debris, possibly marking the line of a itusie dyke. The eastern shore of the bay is a long sandy or grassy slope, rising from the edge of the water tu a ridge of prominent hills. At a point three miles south of the hill of nuartz porphyry is alow boss of gray gneiss, while otl' the point is a boss of tin(>-grained green diorite, consisting of crystals of hornblende, sometimes altered to chlor- ite, surrounded by very much decomposed i)lagioelase. On the north side of the channel east of the bay, is a long point of a massive l)asic granite, consisting of quartz, orthoclase and biotite. The orthoclase occui's in large irregular individuals, surrounded by a tine-grained groundmass of much shattered ijuartz. Some of the biotite is altered to chlorite, which shows a deep blue polai-izaticm colour. Ilmenite surrounded by leucoxene. epidote, ajiatite and zircon were also seen in tlie section. The surface of this granite is well polished and shows glacial grooves runnintr N. .'?5 W. The south-east side of the iioint is well rounded, while in the yrooves are many curved cross-fractures opening north- westward. At ;\ point half a mile further towards the north-east this basic granite isas.-ociate.d wiih irrer-n diorite, and with a rather tine-grained reddish- grav gneiss, composed of quartz, orthoclase, plagioclase and biotite. The i.itter is largely altered to chlorite, and much iron ore is separated i>vl fi'oin it. ^phene is also fairly abundant. I'rom this point north-v.ird for nine miles, to the mouth of a small briMik, the west sliorf is very low, anil is coiiijiosed of boulders and angulai' fragments ot coarse red granite, slojung fi'oui low hills down to the shallow ^^■ateI■. I'^roin the mouth of the brook the shore turns south-eastward for five At th'st it is an e\en, j)robably sandy, slope, aiul then rocky lie .in to appear, and continue to the })oint. At the point the rock is a verj^ coarse ma^^siM' red hornblende-granite, which in places s 'ems to run into a decomposed highly ferruginous quartz-porphyry, cut by veins of white (juai'tz. The surface of the granite is polished and scored l)y glacial groo\(\s and sti'iie running N. 'M") ^\. Five miles east of the point, the river was found tlowing out ot the lake, wlu^re the beach is made up of boulders and 'irge angular frag- ments of line quartz-porphyry, red amygdaloidal trap, itc. iiiUes. knoll ( iKdI.ncicAi. Si i;\ kv iih ( ' \\.\li\. \'n|,. |\.. I 'mi I K. V I.ATK IV All--. IS. IS'.i;! (ioifiJK. i!i;r,()\v Dooi'.ArxT t-akk [111 n I u .1. r>. 'I'l KliKM . I'lmtii. A ll|i-. 1.- LoinoN KAi'iDs. Door.AiXT i!i\i:i; I )i:ili;isi- ilykr I'littiii^;' iii:issi\r red anitrs. TVRBELL, ■•] DOOii.MNT );ivi:i:. 6;i F DOOUAINT KlVKR. Tlio river, where it loaves the lake, is alxjut 20U yards wide. It almost immediately iluws down two slifrlit rapids, after whii-li it has a current of four ?ailes an hour, tlirough a wide and almost level plain, l,,vh1 plains underlain bv redaish dll. which holds small pebbles and boulders, Heix- "^ ''"• and there are oc-asional knolls of sand and rounded ,m-avel. The channel rapidly deepens, with steep ,<,'r(!en baidc^ and the stream rushes on in long swift rapids whi.'h required all the dexterity of our go(xl canuemen to run. Seven miles below Doobaunt Lake, the rivi'r tlowp over a rid,','e of coarse reddish liorid)lende-;,'raMite, and then suddenly contracts, and foi' two nales ruslies as a foaminu' torrent down a narrow gor^e about Xaricwpurpe. twenty-five yards wide, descending in the distance one hundred feet. The north-west bank is an almost continuous wall of I'ock, which, how- ever, was not examined ; the .south-east i)ank is a steep sandy slope, with rocky points projecting into the gorge at freciuenl intei-vals. On this side the rocks seen were : -A fine-grained red ipiartz-augite- anderite or dacite, containing cry.stals of light green augite, plagioclase, and a few rounded coi-i-oded ciystals of quartz in a finely ciystalline groundmass, composed chieily of minute crystals of plagioclase, coloured I'ed by numerous inclusions of iron ore. A fine-grained dark-green pitchstone, consisting of glassy groundnia.-s, filled with minute feathers of iron ore, which reader the rock veiy opaque. This pitchstone is cut by veins of ((uartz with numerous cavities, lined Avith crystals of amethyst, etc. In contact with the pitchstone is highly altei'ed red Athabasca conglomerate. This conglomerate forms tiie bank throuch- out the lower portion of the gorge. Tiie goi-ge prol)ably mai'ks the line of a dyke of pitchstone or basalt, which has weathered away more rapidly than the surrounding granite and conglomerate. Past this !iea\y rapid, which is the most serious ol>struction on the whole riAer, a portage two miles and a half in lenutii was mode on the siaith bank. AVhere we left tin* liver the bank is thirtv feet hisrh. and is composed of reddish till with jiartially rounded pebbles. After ascending to the top of the bank the western half of the poilage is over an almost level surface of till, holding pebbles but no Ijoulders, east of which is a descent of sixty feet to a terrace or plain of gravel, some of which is quite loose and is not cover 'd with grass or herbage. This plain undoubtedly represents one of the higher of the ancient beaches, or shores of lltulson Bay and the Arctic Ocean, when the land stood between 40l) and t»00 feet lower than at present. Whether the itM* A ■t . ..;]UI ■ J 04 K DOOnAl'NT KAZAf AND FKUOUSON' IUVKR8. 1' - % T'lmniV llivir h l.U «('fi t'XtfiKK'd o\or the liiLriicr pliiiii wus net tifHiiitfly (icleriiiiiuul, Imt the ovidciic'c lit Imuil would acvm to sliow tbiit it did. Tlio griivel tcrmco doscends niilier steeply to a 1"W ooimtry strewn witli well rDundcd l)(>u!(lt'r.s. * i (h-.iui Luke. \( t|„. f,„,t of the heavy nipid ihc river di.eh!irt;es ii.io Gi'imt Lake (Ko tiaiiied inv Sir ./aiiies (iiatit. Iv.C.M.d., M.I>). Tht» hike is seven miles lontf, and on tlie I'Jth August was partly eovered hy an unl)roken Held ot iee. Its nesteni shore is slopinj,' and J,'rassy, while the beach is n; it Hows iiitotirant l.ake no wood, except ;i few veiy siiiall wiHuws, could 1)1^ found. On its hanks gravel terrace-^, marking old sea-shores, rise from seventy to eighty feet ahove the lake. North of this ilvt-r is a narrow esker, ei^'lny feet high and lietween one and tw'o miles long, e.Kteiiilirig N. lIO \V. and running down to a point at its soulh-eastern end. Its crest, which is chiclly composed of roundetl ]iei)l)K's and boulders, is very narrow, while tiie sides are as steep as the sand aiul gravel will lie. l''>'kvr. Just north of (b'ant Lake, in north latitude (13 it' oO", is a hill or esker. 2711 feet h!j;h, composed of sand and rounded pebbles and cobbles. .Viound its Itase are deep kettle-holes, many of I hem contain- ing j)ofids of water. The westein side, facing tlit> ri\-er, is moderately steep, and on it an- three fairly distinct terraces or old beaches, the highest one being 1 'JO feet alxive the lake, pi'obably marking the highest ancient uiaiine shore line. From this hill a long sandy riilge extends iiito th" distance in a dii'ection N. 80 K. For eight miles helnw (irant i^ake tlu; river is from LlOtt to tOU yards in width, with a curr(Mir (if from thre(> to six miles an hour. The banks are low, and at first are of stratilied gra\i'!, while afterwards they are of rude masses of red gneis.s. .\t the end of the above distance is I), heavy rapid full of large bf)ulders, caused by the stream flowing over a band of fine gray micaceous gneiss striking N. o' W. At the foo' of this rapid the river e.xpands into a small lake, which was choked with heavy ice. fts north shore is rocky, though not high., while the .south shore is sloping and sandy. Here we turned eastward, and just as we entered the river below the lake a solitary deer-skiu tent was seen on the bank. < )n coining IK"H!AI'NT ItlVKK. b.i F til this tout wot'duud lliat it was Dri-upicil hy an Ivslsiiiui, witli iiis two wi\(.'S a!i(l li\t' c In'M if'ii. 'loiii liiiii we ohiaincd .-ome slK'ht iiitoniui- (• wvvc a!so Icul to lit'licNc tnat tiou aljoui the river alicad of us, Icit w( thci'u wi>ro iimiiv mori^ F-'cimos camnod on its i)anks tVoiu wi mill we would l)ft able to obtain inforiuaiion from time to t Ullc Ins [trovt'i to he misleading, as for tlie next tliiri'H'ii days we did not -oe another K.skimo, althoui,di it, \vas e\ iiK'nt then they had been camped bolide ..lie I iver iti many I'laecs >elow t lie ['oml, '^i I wni •h the I sma 11 lak L'S, Wl th sl o'lin;' sani ly js|:i!uo was eaiii{)ea are a i'ouiii(( tX'lOW tl H'se for t ire'e miles ini a half, the river is very s\\ iff, atid at one point there is a fall ten feet in height over a led-e of massive red and green epidotic ouartz diorite <^» whieh contains large erystals of plagioelase, with smal' grains of ipiartz and j-la^'ioela-e, bMitite ail'Mvd to chle-i'.c epidote, apatite, and ii portage on the souili ^=' •nedu'tc ..blende. iiiiriz- diciriti'. >n ore altered to i( lUMjxeiie. rt an IK I'ds in leniitli. r ■.|« •y ;;a .liM J W'liarton Lake, dl so (Milcd ni iiontiiir f A iiaura U..\\, I'Ml.S., Hydrognipher to the AdmiiaU thi \', w 1 ^r. .). ■ It. \N' artoi:, \Vluirt'J feet high, of white Huronian quaitzite, seamed by narrow veins of '•^" '^ }lill of Hui'oii- iuii iiiiurt/ite. w hit e ehaicedonic cpiari It it ft on a low anticline strikimf N, 3o F the rock on th -umm it being horizontal. The top of the hill is beautifully polished, and is marked by iwo sets of glacial grooves and ;'tria', the later set treiidiiu X / i) w Willie the earlier set, seen on n J ,■4) .-» X ■ rniil ,.Mit u .... "• o ,■■< ^ I'll' *« or. V DOOnAl'NT KAZAX AND I'KKdrsuN UIVICHS. I £ II" SiiudUballiW c^uM/.itcibill. Ift; surtaces, tri'iui.s S. '.'S \V. On tlit> southorn sidf of the hill an- three well iimrked ^'lavel terraces, reMiiectivuly GO, 105 and I ."SO t'cot above the lake. The lower two are of tine gravel and o^mrse red sand, and their browH are ijuite hare of vegeialion, so that they form two conspicuous n'll line- on the mh of the hill. The upper one is on a steeper jiart of the hill, and its t'aeo is almost vertical. It is corniiosed of well rounded coarse gravel and suiall cohbles, now all blackened with lichens. Around n. little stone tirc-})lacc on the lop of the hill were the remains of imisk oxen which the Kskinios had recently killed. 15elow Whartt)!! Lake the river tlows at iirst eastward, ami then southward, lor four miles to a small lake, in which distance.' it rushes down two rapids with di'scenls respectively of 1") and (i feet. The small lake seems to be everywhere shallow, though the water i.s very clear. On its south siilc is a sand lidge (or esker /) alxait ;UJO feet high, trending east-and-wesl, on the side of which the three ter- races seen at the tpiart/.ite hill are well shown. Tosvards the west enr turns at right angles and Hows north- ward for seven miles as a wide shallow rapid stream, through low country, composed of small niorainic or drundinlike hills of boulders of light-gray well f(jliated gneiss. Lady Marjorie Lake, so named as a mark of res))ect to the daughter of Their Excellencies the Governor-Oeneral of Canada and Lady Aberdeen, was entered at the south end, in approxiniat:' latitude 64' 7'. Thence it extends northwaid foi- twelve miles, gradually expanding in width low.irds iis northern end. The east shore is at first low, and then rises in a long high grassy ridge, probably an esker. The west shore, idong which we coasted against a strong head wind, consists generally of low stony hills, forming a typical till-covered land- scape. One low rounded boss of well-foliated biotite-gueiss, striking S. 77' E., was seen near the south end of this shore, its surface being marked by glacial griwves trending N. G7^ W. itujiiil uiu IHirtujfe. Lady Muijorii Lako. I)0<)|IAU\T ItlVKI!. 07 K At tho north-west rtni?le of Lady Miirjorio Lake th(! river leaves it, uear the \tnAf of n hij,'h sundy hill. Thence the stie;iin Hows iKirth-weslwiird for two iiiilu.s tu the east side of a similar hill of sand and gravel, at the foot of which is a swift i'a])id nver a ridije of rathei' Ciiiiit Ca»se coarse red epidotie and hornhleudic granite, often containing incjii ''''"' ' sions of liudit-gray micaceous gneis-i. The total fall in this rapid is about twenty feet. In descending it one of tiie canoes was liadly l)rf>ken on a stone. ik'low Canot Casse Rapid the river continues in the saints north- westerly direction, l)Ut the ciirri rn inoderates, and the liaidvS are welUletineil and sandy. Seven miles below, in latituilc 01 IS, is Conitpicuuiii a group of hills from L'OO to 100 feet in height, which had been '''"'"^ ^'■''''■ conspicuous objects in the north foi' several days. (.)ne hill, "JOG feet in height, was ascended. It is composed of mottled, light -greeni.sh,, coarse diabase, made up uf large intcrloi'king lath-shaped crystals of plagioclase, between whicii is augite. largcily altered to a light-green hornblende. With tliese aie ciy -tals of apatit'>, ai\d a number of particles of coj)per-j)yrites. The hill is part of a dyke about 120 feet wide, lunning N. 35 W. ; its sides aiv broken, and in many places abrupt and mural, or composed of tumbled angulai' fr.igments, giving it a very inaccessible appearance from a distance. Its summit is strongly marked by two distinct sets of glacial stria*, the later one running west, .and the earlier one S. 20 W. The surrounding hills also seemed to be compo.sed of the same green Five tcrraoew diabase. ' >n oni- of those rising to the east, five disthiet terraces representing old beaches, are clearly marked. The uppermost one doubtless the same shore-line as the up{)er terrace on tlie (juartzite hill by Wharton I^ake, is about 200 feet, and the lowest one is^about 100 feet, ab »ve the river. The other three are between these. At the south point of the hill they appear as five well cut notches, fi-om which gravel ridges extend along its sides. From this point a ridgj of hills, composed of similar diabase, con- tinues north-westward, while the river tlows with an easy current at the foot of the ridge. South-west of the river, a level plain extends into the distance. Fifteen miles below Lady Maijorie Lake, the river suddenly narrows Banks of to a swift rapid, between walls of coarse red andesite, below which, for andesite. several miles, it tlows in a well defined channel 200 yards wide, with steep banks of reil bouldery till, gradually increasing from 50 to 100 feet in height. I ■A 6S V DOiillAL'M KAZAN AND KKI!<.l n( \ KlVKIiS. r. ■•' m • *- 1 1 Twenty-six milrs below Lady Murjorif \i\V\\ in latiiiulM t! I 'I't' Vl\ ji iiiirniw (Ivkf ('n(li(iltasi!('i'iissi's tii(< liver, t'ltiiiiiiiu'ii !ie:ivy raiiiil, lere called LoikIuii Uapii! alter the I' irNiitf, ei;iiij osed ot' a line L;i'aiiie(i iiiici'i* t'elsitic i^c .uiuliiiass, rcilmired iiy u iiuinl)ei of luds and j^iaiiules of irnii me, in wl ieli are iii»l)edded lai)^(» itlifnoeryslH ot' plai;it»!- of aiiaiile. eii. 'riier<' a!«' ajxo a few crystals df lie I'lic]^ IS si'ry niucli jomicil, ;r i I i reaks i isil wlicti striiik. Aloi'u llie j()iutii;;e-itlaties it is nfli'u considoiahly de- cuniiMi.scd, ivitli tiie I'uniiation nl a ijreeii ■ cnst of ropi. rr cariciimte. Ftir tive miles lieldw LoiidDn iJapid, tin' livi'r continues to liow in sa UK' nurlli-we>terly direct ion, witli a curient nf fiair miles an lionr. Hank-* .if rfil Tlie banks, from r^O to HO fi et in heitilit, arc nt'ien searjied, and ai'e till Atll.lll: cmuifkiun'rati lioiielcrs, overlain l)\ compo-ed (f li;;Iit ijr'ay or red I ill, co; tanimi. stratitied deposits of similar composition. I'lic rixcr lias al! tlieap. pea ante of a prairie stream, rolJiny; pr'airie slretebiiijy; out i.u both sides, and steep banks of till ilescendini; to the watir. At a point on tlie nortli-we.st shore c.f a small sliallow lake, seven iiilos below L(jud'n Rapid, i s a s( ai'pcd bank showing; thirty t'eet of liglit-i,'r»y sand, wiih boulders, at the foot of whieii is ati outcrop, six ca feet in thiokne.-s, of lii^ht-Lfray rather tine Athabasca coriLihanerate, horizontally bedction, on a direct course toward the Th! ew e-clioli (., real li>li or Hack's bivi ani: e< nit (I lo us ainio t cert.iin that we were travellint,' down a triluitar; of that stream, and not on any tiver I'owin;' \\\ to ][ udson l>av. W" e were no .v many miles north ot the head of C'hestertield 1 ilei, ann eveiy mile travelled was takiii'' us dmost tiiat much farther awav fiom the inlet, and that much nearer o i,aclv s i\ i\ er. That tl lei-e was no l:ii;;e sti'eam llowin ii- into li ml iH'cn reiKlereii reasonal) ly sun I'.ay north of Chest' rtield Inlet, had certain by the exploration of Dr. Uae up (Juoi>'h Kiver, and by tin winter Journeys of bit>utenant .^chwatka from X^.xw Inlet to the mouth >f llaek's Kiver T ic spirits of the rty ani' as they thou'dit of tlie lonj,' and t.jdsoiue return n]) this river, to he beyua of weeks l)efore the are ic winter shuuM set it. I'.ut ti just a couple iree miles Itelow the small lake, the ri\er broke up am oiv'saiK ly iilis and 1 dand.^ and throujrh these a lar>,'e .stream seemed to join ilie Duobaunt Pviver from the west. Clumps of willows were jurowini,' on the liaiiks, and a T««I«!U li'idllAUNT lllVKIt, fV.t K ronsidfiiilih' (|iiiiiitity nf di it't wdnd wns si-iittfii'il iilioiit, t'oic-ii.stinj,' nt' Mnutli'.f II. I 1' 1 • . i> . ■ I ■ ■ 1- 1 1 I 1 1 Till lew Kin t'l". y a-ci'ndinj,' eitln r Cliariol oi' (ireasi' l!i\er, i''riiiii the lirst driftsvu.id at the sand liilU the river tui'iied towards the niirth-east. After eontiniiinj,' dicvn the .stream for tive miles eamji wa.s jiitehed on a small ishiiid in latitude 01 .'Ui' '20", behind a sandy lieaeh, with a thiek i,'rove of willows three foot hi;,di behind the tents. The Mirroiuulin;; beaele's weic all sandy, (luite dilVerent from the stony and yriivelly shores hi;j;her u|i the rivei'. Jl.'re we enjoyed tlie lirst j,'ood lire \vc liad had for three weeks. I'Voiii thi- eainji in the delta of the western I'iver we decende i a |;jv,.r tmii- tine wide sti'eam, with its low gra'sy and sandy hanks, until, after a •"'f^^'*'''' few miles, it turned dlieetly eastward. A short dilanee helow this Ih lul i> a small isl mil, on whi 'h is a hill a hundred feel hii;h of h>iri/.ont!i!ly stiatitled \\ hile sand, on the summit of which are well- roundtd iielililes. ilills of sand of similar character extend liac.c fi'o:u both sides of the riser. They all probably rejiresent a bar forme 1 across the mouth of the bay to the west when the sea stood at the le\el of their suuunits. Si.\ miles and a half east of this sanfly islaiul is a low dill' of white till, the bouldeis in which are chielly of white and li,!,dit-red sandstone. A short distance faither ea^t. the river tlows into the west end of Aberdeen Lake. Aberdeen Lake — so called as a tribute of respect aiul esteem to Hi. .\i„.nlr,.n Ivvcellencv the (iovernor-tienei'al of Canada --is forty-four ndlos in '"'•^'■' len^'th ami about sixteen miles in j^'reatest width, with an aiea of from two hundred to three hundred scjuare miles. The temperature of the wrtter on Auf,'ust 28tli was 40 V. The south shore is a moderately high but <,'entlv slopini; grassy ridge, while the western portion of the north shore consists chielly of rather high drumlin-like ridges of s;ndand boulders, between ^^hich are often long gentle slopes desoer lin- to the water. The beach is usually sandy, but the more prominent points are closely packed walls of boulders, while pavements of rounded cobbles and boulders often extend out into the lake from the eJi.e ..if the be:ich. I mat ►J ./ ■.,,1 . 4 Ml.'"* ■: ) t^- ro F DOOUACNT KAZA5 A:fD FEKGCSON RITKHS. TorrkCKl hill f saiiclstdiic. 3 'I Still hi^'hrr terracct:. Oiul'tuf Alienif'eii Luke dis- covfred. Hill.- ..f gli.-iss. Four miles west uL the outlet of the lake, a gentle ^Mfisey slope rises a huniJied feet to the foot of a ridge of enarse sandstone which is about 400 feet high. From the top of this slope the rocky hill is steep and rugged, with vertical clitfs of hard white or light-red sand- stone which is thickly and horizontally bedded, and often contains so many pebbles of white (juartzite as to 'bange it into a con^'omerale. The summit of the hill is well glaciatefl, th(! glacial grooves trending X. 35 W. Several gra\el ridges, or old beach-lines, arc well marked on its sides, with the following elevations in feet al)Ove the lake, viz. : — GO, 90, 10."), 150 and 180, the last being marked by a strongly cut terrace. Above th-^se are one or two other beaches, the height.s of which were not determined. Six mile:! further east, on the east .side of the outlet )f the river, is another hid -iOO feet high, of coarse hoiizontal sandstone and conglom- erate. On this hill the upper beaches can be clearW traced. The foot of the upper clitl', possibly an old beach-terrace, is 320 feet abo\e the lake, but a very distinct old beach of rounded graNcl and cobbles is clearly marked -it a height of 290 feet. There is another beacli at 220 feet, and a stony terrace at 170 feet, corre.sponding to the ISO feet beach on the other hill. ()r> the side of this hill is a little valUy down which a small glacier seems to have flowed, leaving little lateral and terminal moraines of boulders. The river flowing from Aberdeen Lake was discovered from the summit of this hill, previous to whi' h most of a day luwi been spent in the soutli-eastern bay searching for it. As seen from here the country to the north, beyond thi, river, is low, gra.ssy, and dotted with lakes, while to the east is a ridge of rough, stony hills. From Aberdeen Lake we groped our way down tiie river for a couple of hours in a thick fog, and as the fog cleared away we were approaching a shallow rapid where th. vater spreads out over a bed of gravel, below which the river Hows for several miles with a width of from a quarter to half a mile, with low gi'avel banks, to a small lake. A stop was made on the lu.rth side of this small lake in latitude 64" -13 27". A mile to the north rises a ridge (.f bare, smoothly rounded hills .300 to 400 feet high, composed of horizontally foliated gray micace- ous gneiss, cut by many veins of red pegmatite. The summit is strongly scored by glacial grooves trending X. 30 W., the direction of glacia- tion being clearly indicated by the smoothed -^d rounded south-eastern slopes, and the jagged and broken hillsick., facing north-westward. South of that portion of the hill just described is a depression filled with ( iKnI.diMCAI. Si h\ \:\ (>| ( ' w; Vnl., IX,, I'AliT \.\ I l.A'IK Au^'. 1:7. I Ml,'!. 1111,1. oi' .sAXDsroNK. xoirrii oi" ai'.ki;|)K1':x i,.\kk. SliiiwiiiL:' aiiciciil iiiiiriiif tiii-.-icc.-. "i .1. 11. 'I'^ i.i;i;i.i.. I'll .1(1. Si.|ii. :'ii(|, is'.i;;. K-^KIMOS. XK.Mt IHi: MOl'I'li OF I >()()|!.\ IXT IMAKK. ■J l1 TVRHI sect is St cry] f.-rr (|ua of I pt'n on I ver (|ua i wit! of t 1 tiat soul bea of n sicU lak. did Do( tioi not easl is 1 A I pile era bed stn bull ha J he TYtWE -] DOOHAUNT inVKH. 1 F (h'-bris, rind across this is a lower hill of a red ferruginous rock inter- (.hiartz- sected by nuartz veins. Under the microscope tliis ferrugint)us rock ''""^'^ ^^^' is seen to consist of sharply angular grains of (juartz imbedded in a crypto-crystallinc! matrix, which is deeply coloured by fine particles of ferruginous material, and shows very distinct tlow structure. The quartz grains show uneven extinction, and many of them are comp(Jsed of more than one individual. Occasionally their sides are broken and penetrated by -nngU'S of the matrix. A short distance further east, on the line of the middle of the gap, is a red porcellaneous breccia, very simihir to the last, but containing grains of felspar as well as i|uartz. Between the hills and the shoi-e is a fairly level grassy plain, strewn with boulders and angular fragments of unaltered sanilstone, but none of the I'ocks from the hills to the north could be detected. The small lake lies in tiie valley between the rounded hills of Lauren- tian gnei.ss to tlie north, and the hills of Cambrian sandstone to tlie south. Its shores are generally sloping and grassy, and there is a pebbly beach, but boulders are rare. The outlet (jf the lake is in the middle of a low level grassy plain. A iiigh wall of bnulders is piled on each side of the channel, which is between 300 and lUO yards wide. At a point on the north bank of the river, a^^hort distance lielow the lake, is a low outcrop of almost horizontal thin-bedded red sandstone. Schultz Lake, so called in honour of the late Sir John Schultz, who <;ui,,,]f;, f^.^^y, did so much to promote exploration in northern Canada, receives the Doobaunt iiivei' at its western end. It lies in an easfc-and-west direc. tion, is twenty-four miles long, and perhaps .seven miles wide, !)ut its noithern shore was not closely explored. At its western end, the northern shore sfcmed to be a continuation chanatt.T ..f eastward of tlie ridge of Laurentian gneiss, while the south shore "Ikup-- is low, with rounded hills in the distance, doubtless of sandstone. A point on this shore four miles east of the mouth ()f the river, is piled high with boulders, chielly of white sandstone and conglom- erate, l)Ut some are of green trap, green schist, and thinly foliated gneiss. Further east the south shore rises from the beach in a long gra^.sy slope to the summit of a ridge of thickly and horizontally bedded sandstone or conglomerate. The beach is usually a pleasant strand of waterwoiii gravel, but in some places the gravel and boulders have been shoved by the ice into a high smooth wall. At the .south east corner of the lake is a narrow channel into a deep bay, at the bottom of which is a ridge of high hills. On each side of he channel are similar high hills, the lower parts of which are sloping ■I' in .J n ■1, ■; \ DOOMAi'NT KA/,.,N A\i> i'i:i:i;ls. wliiU- tlir liiil l<» tlu! iiortli i-i very >iinihir in fippeaiaiicf, an 1 is [H'oiiilily i:oin]K)S''(J of .similar rocks, hut dippinu' iiorlli-u-cslwjiiil ;i' an hulIi' ot' '2'> . IV mile- t'ariliiT north is a roumlcd hill H^" ti'ct hii^di oi' w iiUf ;nid red tluc k-li '(Uicil iMiartziti' sandstone. striKiiu N. W ami (lippini (i.i ^V.. at an anisic ot onio of thi^ Iji.'ds ot' sandstone low I'lsnufi rippio-maiK-inu,- I'.andsot' I'onulom^'ralc, with white uuarlzite pol)t)lt's, arc inteiliiHldcd V. iiii th.f^ sandstono. Spccinions of the coii- .Lclonieratt from this ])la">' suliscijUi'nLly as /lycd for u'old and ^;'l^■|•r jiriiNcd io contain, mitlicr. < >n the si(h-s ot ilu' hi'l a;id alnin.^ tlic h acli wvvo a number of pebolcs of uiffii cliloritii: schist, in(Ji(-atiu^ the iiroscnce of thesi' rocks in the \icinitv. Th e surracc o f ll ic ^r.niiiiit IS stronti'lv i:',aci;'.t('d, the sli'ii" trrnchmj; X. oO W. Thcr I- a: marked ten ace. or old 1) on I lie side t] 10 Jll at a lici-iit of lMIO fct ;U)0"it' t IKo Kajiid Ilia UUtlct uf Sclinlt/. L; H SchistK uroiiiaii Four miles north oi tiiis iiiil, the ri\'er lt'a\-i>s llic north si(h' ot Scliult; L 'Xkc in a cUaiii; •1 ;i 'juar of a mile wiijc, with low hank's of hoi-i- zontai white sandst,)ne on hoth sid-'s, luliini: which arc r ither lii hare roimdcd hiils of sfindsloiit'. J he ri\er i!on\s noithwr^ici tor a inile anil a na If, (le^cenclinu: a swi ft hut dvf]< I'apid witli a fa of iivo feel, to t]u> foot of a rid^e of rcii, meiluini-L;i'a!ne(l liotile-uMvinite, wiiich descend licavih- joiritr N\'ith a slope to iiif \\;Ut>r. liei'c. at tiie exli'cme northern point jf our jon''ncy, the river turns sharply, and llows mhuIi -east ward along the foot of the granite ridge, lietween ilic granite to the north, and a rounded grassy ridg" of sandstone to the south. After flowing in this direction for fmir iniies, it turns sharply north-eastward, and, .'it a rough Jicavy rapid, cuts througli a ridg.- .it'the giay granite gnei-s, the strike of wliic 1 is here north-eastwaril, wliile it-- din i-; ni'at 'I' riy Nci'ticai. J3 elow tins rai pid the rivci' enters a grachiahy (ieeneniiu \-allev. and Hows at tlie rate of six or seven miles an hour, Ix'tween Ivanks of liglit- gray, stony till A heavy storm, witli r.dn, now set in, and thougli the stieep hanks were soon seen to he composed of gi'eeii lluronian schist s. It was iniiM.ssihle to (>xamine tliem, and we rushed on until we came to a .-tony Hat in the valley. wliei-e we pilclit d oui' camp, and thi men were ahlc to coll ct some small, l)ut green, dwarf Itirch for firewood Tiie storm continiieti to rage for three (i,iv<, d were unahle to launch our canoes. uring whicii tune we Th le low .mils hefiind camp were conijio.sed of thinly foliated li^ht- gi'p( n eh'' ritic .scliist, striki nu ■iO W. ,ind dipjung .S. 10 E. at ai uooiiAUNT i;l\i;i; w4 an,i,'le of 55 . The schist, j.robaijly a crushrnl d iJibaso, IS cr)iii)i!;>:ii'( 1 nf jinuns o f pi ayiociasc-, or ihoel isi! aiiu i|uarl/., in a, line nulooiys tall Hie matrix of similar material. AVit!, the above mineial s are ■I'vstals o f )rnbl I'uue, sunic ot aii;iUe, aini a Jitt.e ataiiie ii'oii ore and JeuedX'- I n i)lac('s the .-.cliist eonl,:iiiis a iar^c^ (juanrity of ]iyi'it( ana is nr i;v veins of white (juartz, mixed .\ ith ci'-ite. A short distance l)elow camp was a hill of tin's i;r!i sehis', cu\ by two dykes, respectively tweut s- fivt id ten feet wU\t\ of dark-ureen fine-La-aim lasalt, Kykrsof basalt. ahnosi vertical anil I'unni.'iL; nearlv with tin; strike of tlu schist, altl foliiiii a I tl kjUuIi ■ii;i-as!o.ial iV .(linij; or.t a ji ttk and oreaKmj: across i;s i)n 'J' ic roc inu much, c 'ai-er in the middle of the dykes than on . t '"an > verse omlin''. Uiid ei' I lie microscope It is seini to an inV'^rl'ii Kina' mass or minute roi d-lil ci'vs: als, ].!-oi)ably of fi'lspar. i'.nbe idc/, in a i\ ne-''ranie(i rroundinas: blackeiH'd with minub' Mils anil ijariieles of iron ore. I ere and tl lere is a ia the U'lie crvstal or a ^^itc Close to the lin(^ contact with this dyke, the schist is hardened, A-ein of white lten a narrow riiCft w: he surface 11 nvrite, th X. no the rocK is wel; giaciatrci, tne stria' trending o W., uj) the vaili>y. I'^'oni cam]), the river jjow^ sirath-SMUtheastward, across the strike of the schist, pcrliajis along the line nf ikii eroded dyke, in a \alley about oOO yards wide, and fniin -"O to lou feet deep. T''e brows of the hills on liolli sides are bare and evenly rou.nded, and the banks slope stee})ly to th<> bottom of the v.'ilcy. ]>uring, or at tin- clo.se of, the ghicia] pr-riod. the valley has h-ei, tilled \vi;h gray stony clay to a height of about thirtv feet ;ib()\-c the ]>restnt level of the water, and the existing I'iver is usuallv frniii thirty t'l lifty yards narrower than the rocky vall'V, so that on itne side there i> t ften a ■doping ''ank ot clay, while on the other side is a ciill' of rock. Many broke, shells of Sa.ri'-ara rti;/ii.-.i( were found on ihi? top of this terrace of ,- ly clay. At a hill on the west bank, loO feet hii^h, the green chlo ic schist Wiis found to have the same strike a;- at ''amp. imt to uip N. 40 AV. at an angle of 60. The summit 'f this hill is se.- 1 by glacial grooves trending X. 70 AV. The river eontinuetl to tlow with :i sv.df' nrrent between sloping stony banks in a. narrow (ieep vaiiey, with hi-li hills on eaih side, those to the east being much tlie more abrupt and preeipit-nis, while thos(> to the west descend in gra.-sv slopes. Old valley. en miles above J->ake ,p. ike, we found a small band of Eskinx'^s encamiieu m tents on tie l)anl W e were received bV ■I' 'I. lilt 'i :s» C'hloritic Kii<'iss. Buki-r Lake reached. ( Ifincral eharac'tc r 71 F nuOFlACNT KAZAN* AND FEKCISON' RIVKHS. them "a u verr kindly inannor. iind some of the Mien volunteert'd to acccimpuny us tlown the I'ivfn- iu tlieir kyacks, or small cnnDes of denr- skiuH. Two miles beluw this camp is a hill, a huiulrod feet high, of i^ieeii rhloiitic gneiss, striking S. .")(.» W., in the same direetion as the schist- It is out by some wide \-eins of i-ed granite, and l)y several narrow edded many phenocrysts of biotite, now largely altered to chlorite. Secondary particles of calcite are also scattered through the felspathic matrix. The summit of the hill is strongly marked by glacial grooves tremiing ligh ridges of On the tup of one of these ridges was a About two miles ai)ove iis mouth the river becomes wi(h' and shallow, with a bed of rounded boulders, and with boulders along each side camp of ten or twelve tents of Kskimos, who leceived us kindly, but like the others, they %\ere very much surprised to see white meu descending the river. On the evening of September 2nd, we reached the mouth of the river at the north-western angle of Baker Lake, and pitched our camp on a low Hat, chise to an exposure of cuarse red horizontal sand- stone. ^^'e had successfully crossed through the middle of the Barren Lands, and had now reached a point where Captains Christopher and Duncan had V)een before us in their search for the North-west Passage, though for more than a hundred yeais no white man had \isited the spot or had entered Baker Lake. Se\en hundred miles of travel had still to be accomplished before even the most remote trading post inhabited l)y white men could lie reached. Baker Lake lies in a general east-iind-west direction, with a total length of about forty-five miles, and a width which, though as yet undetermined, seems to be considerable. It is for the most of its extent free of islands. On September tith the water in the open lake had a temperature of 41 F. Its southern shore was not examined, but at its western end it appears to be of sandstone. The north shore was surveyed with a compass and boat-log, and the following description applies tn those portions of it nn wliich we were obliged to land. From the mouth of Doobaunt River we paddled out into the lake, being barely able to ride the lieavy waves, and coasted eastward. Just east ot the mouth of the river !>* a liigh hill, probably of sandstone, DOOHArN'T IIIVKU, lO V (It'sfending with long grassy slopes to the lake. Ttro mile>< tVuni tlie I'iver the shore drops hiU'k into ii l))iy, fiiul thence fur nine uiiies it is hounded hy a ridge of gneiss from "JOO to 3()0 feet high, At Prince Point is 11 low exposure of red sandstone dipping soutliwanl at an angle of about .'JO , and the heach is composed almost entirely of flat- tened pelihles of sinular sandstone. Prince {{iver, so called after Profes-or K. K. Prince, (.'.mimissioni'r ot I'rinw Uivtr. lysheries for Canada, is si.vty feet wide at its mouth, and tlow.s from ii wide, gently sloping valley coming from N. or) W. Three-ijuarters of a mile from the lake is a rapid with a descent of three feet, above which the stream appeared to be lapid anfl shallow, with an average width of about sixty vards. West of the mouth of this river is a hill of thinly foliated medium-grained gnei.ss, with red and gray l)!in(I<. striking N. Go W., and with vertical n it.' south side, running almost with the strike of the gnei.ss, is a wide dyke of massive red augite-andesite, composed of a reddish fino-grained crvpto-crystalline Ait(?itu- giMundma.ss, through which are scattered a lar:,'i> number of particles "°"'''''^''' of ii'on ore. It contains many lai'ge [ihenovrysts of biotite, which are almost entirely altered to chlorite and i-uli-ite, and many small crystals of light-green rhlorite (?) surrounded by a biack Icrriiuinous border, iirobal)lv idtered from au'dte. At the rM])id three-quarters of a mile uji the river, the rock is a dark hornblende-schist, pi-obably a crushed diurite or gabbru. It is cut by veins of granite, and includes irregular masses of fine-grained lighc- gray gneiss. At this place the surface of the rock is beautifully smnuthed and Criips-strice. polished, and is generally scored by glacial stria' running S. 30 E., made by a glacier that descended the valley of the river. On some polished surfaces on the south side of the hill, other and older stria' were seen trending N. 75 W. On the hill at the mouth of the river the stria? of the local glacier wei'e not seen, but the whole surface is strongly marked by glacial grooves trending N. 55 W., the direction of motion of the glacier being clearly shown by the rounded .south- eastern slopes and the broken hillsides facing the north-west. East of the mouth of Princ>' River is a terraced rocky hill about 400 feet high, the terraces, representing old sea-beaches, extending up almost to its sunnnit. The central knoll, rising above the terraces, appeared from the tlistance to have a slightly columnar structure, but whethei' it is of andesite, red conglomerate, or of some other rock, was not determined. ;••} 1 ■:. I o 1 1, >!« 'G V doohaint kazw anii rKn'.rs.>\ imvkiis. I'niils f,,i'..ii. A h.-uvy sliiiiu set in us we roiK'lit-.I tlio ii)'>iuh of I'finec ]\\\i'v .uid (iftaiiii'i u> nil the slinic tor tw.t ilavs. < >ii the iiinniiuit,' of S |)tt>ni- Ik'V ")tli, hct'Div \vc Ifl't c.nijt, 111' tin' : in ill i>'i;i.l-i wcie finzou over, luul the wet sainliit' tlu' heacli was t'ruzcn KuHicii-iitiy li.iid to pcrinit ii iniii til walk aililv. Ali<"iU'i' of l',)r lip' |ia^' nil. mil the ]i;u'iy liad livi'd hIuid-'I t!\:irt'ly cii ifiiulrcf ^''^'" "'■ iiir-it, fur rcindi'i'i' had I'l-en ]ili'MtifiiI all almi^ the hanks nt' tin' i'i>or ; liiit al ]^iinct lliv CI' Ul left till' rciiid.-cr lu'liii aiH 1 f I I >lll t llCI'l' '.II ward to C'inirrliill iMiu> w-rc sliMt. A fiiU'T kniAvIidnc nf tin- lidiils ail'. (_ iistiibutii'ii of tlii'sc aniiiials wmi'id liasc ^uvcd u- mmdi Mill'irin but that inforinatioii was not t! en vailalj 11' Wfi 8i>: iiiilos and a half I'a-it of IViiu'i' Hivc!' is a ijold mcl.y p'int of cen uiu'Ns, strikinu N. lU W . and inu: Ifnliatt'd r<'d and ''i ■.0 AV. at an aiii:li' oi (i f r, C;il ■Mi'H;- oi-i!i:^iiiiaHr;itt Al a [loint three miles an 1 a half finalier towards tli" iiorlhi asl, ilie .shoi'O is eoiiijio-ed of lij;hl-;;iMy gneiss, beliirai wliieh is a liiil of coar-e, red. 0 ileareoiis con^doiiicriUe (>;• arktj'e, .:oniji.)sed of an all)ti'ioinonihic' ;_foiuid:i:a.-s of calcile, in "luch arc iiiil)odded irregular jj;raiii-; of ijiiart/. S-IOW iiij.' niievi ri extiiietioii and in many jiliues fraeliiied, a few tlak tii: iiiioa. Mii'ticies ot hornlilende. 1 N. .StJ W. and dip-: S, 10 W. at ai iiiite an i i'|iidot(\ It strikes linio 1 allele ot _.) . Tr.aM I'lir the next se\-en miles the land i^ ro and IS largeh' ei iui]i of I iiove or ! es!: thinly foliated gneiss, striking along tlie shore and wit! nearly vertical dip. Al t le eni 1 of till' alxjvp distance is a \-a lev quarter of a mile lo".g. on ea'h side of w hich are hills, ITiU I(H'1 liigh. of liilhtirniv biotite-i^neiss which sti'ikes N, aiKl liiis N. 1:3 W at an angle of GO'. The \allev runs ,S. 70 E. and descends s Ncntv feet in it> leiii'ili. It has lieei 1 com jiaratively recently occu))ied liv a .small glacier, a iater.d moraine of houldeis Iviii" near the foot of each '^lnal'. i-'hi. icr. rucky wall. The summits of the hilN are scored hv glacial gi I unniiiiT .south. 'oij\ e Fo'' a short distance south-westwai d fr-iiu tlii> little \aliev ihe s! th Its 1 IS lni^-li ana ru'.'ged, the points lieing co'ii]) ised of sinidar gneiss, which lore rliicli <.raduallv swiiiL;s round until it strike- southward out into the lak anu I Jips westward at an angle of almut {'>'. The land then I )e<;onies am OV.tc-.'o]) 1 the heaoh is largely coinpoa'd of l)oulders, with occasional jf L'neiss. At tiio ]>oinc live miles northeast of the little IS OI L'nei tl va;ie^ tne tliinly loliated gni iss i^ cut h. a gr 'en^tone dyke. At the mouth of a hrook, three mil(>s north-east of this jioint, i- a nm It 1 raci ured nil am green, highly calcareous (pi, irtzose schist, di[) r»M|[Li.. i)'">i:.\r\r i;i\i.r!, 77 F [liiii,' w('»t\vaiii at iiiuin'. iiitf'i'iand.-.l with liiycrsot" il iirlv-itreeii Hnc-L,'r.iiiutl (li( rite, tlif; lifiruhlciic] e 111 which IS liv'e lil"i')te. ly (lit (.Tt'il to i'"iMtii the lii-iuk 111.1 i li fii.-t\\at'(i I'm- scviruliii ill'S, il rill;^'!' SI'S t'l'ill liiirulivil tVft }ii.,'li, ii~.f< l,y a !,'r,t.-sy Ii [m from the i^l^,' ,>( the ■•vater. Ai. a i)niiit lour miles fmin the la-dk iiiiti (.■ . is an niiti rnj) of red ^ai^.'Ntoin; ai,(l uijijiiiii X. 70 W <;aiil ac i;:i in the liottoin of ii Imy, t'i,i,'ht Mii!(.s furtlicr oast, a lirook tliirty v :; \vi(I« lldWH over IxmliliMs and rid-vs r.f "miss into the. l;ds(\ fls l.ai :uv. twriity feet lii.^h, and arc cf t^iav till fillf d with 1 )iiUli;t'r? Tl KRl well foliated red and ^ray .gneiss, -trikcs N. So ]-'., and di at an anyh' of ♦'"0 T Ml' nk'ieial -roovcN on its .-ui'fiU'o ti'end \V'., the n(n-thf?'i -idts if tl •inij; smocitliiy round le I losses Ip wliile the southern sides are .•ouv.h and hrokcn. In tlie high rocky ridge south of iho bro(,k, the ro< k is a d; tliinly fuHated trfU'rietiferous hornl.lend{'-<,'neiss, striking S. 80 W. ai;d with ahnosr vertical (.hip. I'hi- ^niiss strikes •,i](indndi!'.g fragments of .-rhist, .V. wi(hh of this liinestoiM,' hantl could not lie detennined, for side wa,^ !e)t seen. ban.) <.hap( and conglomerate, containing white (|uartz pebbles, and dipping at a low angle towards the rugged hills of gneiss on the noith shore. >t'.n' 1,^1' 111 -aiu!- ■ ail"! con- "i';it''. 78 F |io.)il.\rNT KA/.AN AND ir.RUL'SOX IMVKIIS. If ^' I' .1- l.shilli. Iiii-ni (julKa of IJiiki-i' I^alsc i.s ;i <;(>nsjii(U(m>s riK'ky hill a Imiidicd feet higli, oompoMt'd of well ImiikUhI n-d and yreen j:,'iK'i,s-^. (ifteii Iiigldy jj;unu'!it-Vri)iis, strikini,' S, t'l.') [•]. mid dipjnnu' S 'J") W. ;il an :ui;,'li" nt' T*' . A dy ki' (ic ImihI of tiiie-graiiicd dark griM'MstDiit^ runs tlirougli th." hill ])aralli'l wiUi the sti'ikc nf the gneiss. Howell Island, ho calliMJ in honour ot' the Hon. Sir .Mat-ken/if Howell, lies to the Houth, wiih its high I'ocky shores which round down gently into the water. On the eviriin^ oi' Septeiid)er <)lli wc entrmi i he northern outlet ot' Hak«!r Lake, l)',.l we had not proceeded far hefore we were met hy an overfall >m of ii, rooky gorge from 'JOO to 'lUU yards in width, on the north side of which arc rugged broke-i clifl's, between 'JOO and .')00 feel, high, rising from the edge of the water. The rock is a hard, brittle, well handed, green gneiss, striking down the gorge, interlaminated with bands of d nk greenstone, and also cut a I'oss the strike by n.irrow dykes of the sune rock. The south shore is also high, V)Ut the hills are more evenly i'oun(hjd. and the lower part of the slope is commonly gra.ssy. A few willow bushes grow on the rocky slopes. The sides of th" rock are w(>ll smoothed and glaci- ated, the grooves running straight down the valley. The movement of the glacier would seem to have been eustwiird, as the western sides of the knolls are rounded, while the eastern .sides are rough and broken. On a small island near the mouth of the river the rock is a .similar i)anded gneiss striking S. 80' E., and dipping N. o' E., at an angle of GO . It is very much crushed, the grains of (juartz and fel.spar being all roughly angular, appro.\imately eipial in .size, and showing line foliation. It u cut by a dyke, about a hundred feet wide, running S. C'V K., of liii'-graiiied dark-gray garnetiferous diorite. Ghici.'il stria- were apj)arent running 8. 15 E. ClIRSTKRKIKr.D IXLF.T. Chesterfield Inlet was entered just below the above-mentioned island. It is a long, narrow fiord e.xteuding 125 miles we.stward from the north-west coast of Hudson Bay. Including Baker Lake it has n total length of 'JlU miles. On each side are bare, rocky slopes. ("HK.sTKitnr.i.n iNi.i;r. usuiilly from lUO to I'UU tVci I writer, but tho ^Toiktest (li'j)tli iii;i mul" ill 17»'>-J, is I'nrlv I'athoiiH. Al it liLfli. No sourulirn;>« wore tiikon hv the irkoil on C';i[itjiin Clifi.stoplier's cliarl- NI.'Uiil, tilt' tido WHS iomni of tiu' spriiij,' tiilo is fihoiit s up[ii-i "lul, just oast of IJowoll lo iisf six {'tsot. wliilr !vt its fiioulh lli" ri fiL'lltl'CIl t'cct. At alow {xjiiit on the north slmr I', in atULi.if ami a < niiit' and a half Ih'Iow I lie inoiilli of ih.. ri\(>i- ju^t (icsfcndcd, tlit^ rock jiiriiHtit"iT(iii>< s'lH'i«H. IS a coarse j,'ray gariictitiM-ous ;,'ric'iss, striking? X. 77 E. N. l;{ W. al, il artfc o\al niashcs, arnuiu an an-de of 7i) . the ''arnets bcit which till foliic curvi and dippini;' )ft nr; ottcn aj'L'rcc'.ac.ii m W'c f ound lyinu on »< vi'inity, a small the shore and prolialily dcris. d from the! rocks of tl b.Hlldcr of t,'ranite con'ainin;,' a mass of coppir pyrites. The snrfaci- of the i^mici-s at this point wms scoi.d hv three set- o f Tl ^'1 acial stn.c Th. earliest set, found in jirotectcd yroov es on a slojiing sets (if rliiciul Htri.u. surfaces run S. O") \V. The Muffui' ,i,'enerally is smo ithod, and well in irked by i,dacial ^roovi's runnini,' S. .'{ ]'],, the dir.'it ion of nioMon Do- ing quite evident. A still later set i;ins S, 4;l Iv, but tl ai'iation has not beei n surh(;i(!ntly sever, to ruh out t lie former, except on tl vei'V .summits of the knolb ■a Th ree miles turtner east, on tlie :^:uiw sliore, i- a low point .,f thinly toliatt'd iit'e-n I'lieiss, cut across whU'd IS \('iv much crus'ic ■iltt dvk e oi reddish j:;ranite or diorite ri'ii aiiil 111 wlii(:!i a S( hist. ciiar acter is df\-. lop Tn ti an -"ctioiis the iji'art/ and m UlMI O f the fe'isii/i par is seen to be Droken into minute fra^ncnts, amoni,' which arescatten-d some rather hu-;,"' broken ma'^ses of felspar, chictly pla:,doclase. F<' ir iiiihs north-east, acros.s the mouth of a bay tint extends a lorn; distance towards tlie north, we landed at an island lvin<' oil' l''lat Point. ft was fouiad to consi> •'iieiss, strikini' N. 37 )t n.il •r c'o irsi' 1.(1 and i;rav bandtnl l)iotiti E., a.', 1 dip}>ini; N. ").S W., at an anirle of cut V jy anastomosing veins ot coarse red pcgmititi Tt^ ^urtacc 1^ sc<)red by 'glacial groo\>'S bearing S. 17 '^ . Two miles and a half further south-east, a! a low island, the noi". Kern |>art ot ■aIucIi c oiu tl le noi th si lOl'i IS oiisists ot massive rei granite, while its southern part is of a coarse gray gneiss, striking as before, but dipping south-eastward at a further down the shore tl high angle I, ^wo miles jneiss IS again dij'ping north-westward at an aii'de ot t^O It I'oiiit 'i. ■J Three miles and a half further east is a rounded point of typical i''ddish-grav biotit' gneiss, rather irregularly foliated, but seeming t(j have a general strike about N. 80 E. The surface is well glaciated, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 ^*iHi& ^^ w U2 12.2 1^ IIIJA 11.6 ill^^^^ lllH^^^S lllRil^B ^ 6" ► ^ V] *-}. /A '^ '/ Photographic Sdences Corporation 33 WIST MAIN STillT WIUTIR.N.Y. MSM (716)t72-4S03 ^0 F noiiiiAi-NT iv\/.\\ AMI !• (•;!;< -r^'V mvkks hi * ;l"* ** a ,«: 1*' • 1 !•' t'" 1 -t. ■I It ('(larsi- 1 Kiiiiiiti'. Willi iTfoovo.-; ,iiwl Mrii- tn-r.^lin-S. "J:'. H- 'I..Mlirf.cTi<,ii ot motion beini; iinir,istal:.ilili-. Wiitoisli^'iidy Tl;.- water in tin- in^'. Ihmv Ix ;,';ii- : > !•<' -^liu'Iitly l)rac!cisli. tiiiu ki^!l. F;-oMi tliis)i(iiiit, tor si'ventt-en miles ,i..\vn tlie inlet, as t'.-ir as iirs"eted ' y \<'ins -.t coarse white mu,-eo- vite-^jraiiit.-. I'Im^ iurface is also >T.nKly -^eond l.y !.'liiei;d ,Lrro..\es ami stri:e hearing .>. 1 "^ 10. On the iioiili side of Promise [-land i> a rounded idll or rid,!,'ii ."lOO foe: hiuli, ot a s..inewhat coar-e mas' ive red ;rraa!te, eontainin;.' hut a small amount of hiotite. Just soniii of tin- jxranite is ik hill of dark mieasohis!, as-oriated with J'-as -ii'-i^s, inteiseeted l.y veins of coarse while Lfranite. Narrow dyke.s ot dark _"■ enstone i,ut h(-th th»' irranite and ill'" si-hist. The shore north-oast rtli( m >iiie u: j''arl li 'r Imjie Island, seemed to be loiiiposed of gi'ay gneiss, llrlow Wesr Point w,' rin iv'wn '.x it h the title, but against a stiiV head wind, to a low point east i>i i»anger'»us Point. At the turn of the tide wi- [lut a-hore, for it w i.s ii-fle-.s to attempt to trav.d atrainst both wind and eurient. The -iiore evi rywhere ^•(JH^i>.te(l of utterly st.-iilo rcK.ky sterile roeky iulls of r"d -raiiiie <.r li^iitgray ynei s. \l t]n- piae e wheie we l;uide vv" c .nluiued down the roek-lx.und inlet, and camped in a little oieft on a dark lo.ky island, three nii!e.s nortli. west of Merry Headland. The rock wa-- i;i-: oi . |.l. Lli. IMIK. |{u(;kv sin»iti;<»i mitsoN r..\v, w kst m Ti:if.M point. L a s u (I r o II s o tl t( b V si If if a h ri n w tl n V ni ki in te of ill ICUIiHON HAY. 81 K llarlx At Peter's Ciiirii, tliree miles furtlicr east, we weie ftLf'^in storm- Peter's fairn. Ixjuiid ior most of a day, and during this time Mr. .1. W. Tyi-roll made a fidl collection of the plants of the vicinity. The iiilLs are very similar to those farther up the iidet, beinj,' well rounded and almost utterly Vwire. The rock is a ^ray biotite-gneiss striking 8. 10' W. and dipping S. f^O' E. at an angle of 45', cut hy many veins of fine-grained red granite, and coar.se red pegmatitic granite, so that the rook has often the appearance of fragments of gneiss, inclosed in a network of granite. On a jtoint of similar gneiss, north of Spurrell Harbour, the surface is strongly scored by glacial grooves trending S. 45' E. At the rocky point south-east of Spurrell Harbour, which is at the SiJinnll southern entrance to Chestertield Inlet, we were again delayed for most of a day \>y hea\y winds, and oltservations were taken for variation of the comiMLss, latitude and longitude, the latter to determine the dis- tance that we hiul travelled eastward since leaving the forks of Doo- baunt River. The latitude was found to be 0.'} 20' 10", and the variation of the comjiass 10 W. The point itself is a long gentle slope of smoothly ylaciated Ijiotite-gDciss, often with almost horizontal lamination. Like that previously dt scril>ed, it is cut by veins of fine, grained red granite and coarse pegmatite. Above high-water mark is a sandy terrace, on which is an old Kskimo camping ground, with the bases of igloos sunk a foot or two into the sand, and piled round with rings of stones, while around arc many large slabs of stone in a vertical attitude, looking like gravest«mes in a cemetery. I' i. J Hudson Bay. For six tniles .south of Chesterfield Inlet, the shore is rocky, and i.,,t.i ,, ... ,c:. . Hakt-rV l-'iirrlaiid. Iliiroiiiau it>fk-i CDniuii'm.'i'. titic j,'riinitt'. Tlic surface of llie i-ock is sinonth ftiid polished, Init is not strongly s.;ratcl»'(l or giooved, though any grooves that were seen trend S. .''>5 K. Bakers Foreland consists of high points of houlders extending into shallow water. From Bilker's Foreland south westward for fourteen niiK'>, the shore is mostly low and composed of houlders of red and gray gneiss, which freijuenlly extend as long low points into the sea. The land rises to a riilge of terraced gra.ssy liills. At a point north-east of Kahbit Island t'le character of the shore changes, and dark-green Huronian schists croji out from beneath the l)oulders. North of Rabbit Island is a high point, on which the Eskimos are accustomed to camp while waiting for the traders from Churchill. The point is composed of green calcareous chloritic schist, striking S. 55 W'., and dijiping N. .'55 W. at an angle of GU . The schist is cut by a dyke seventy-live feet wide, of massive green highly altered dia- base, containing a large amount of mispickel. This diabase also out- crops along the shore, whei-e it incloses many bands of the green schist. The glacial striic here trend S. 20 VI. From this point south-westward for four miles and a half, to the mouth of l{ankin Inlet, the shore is rocky, being composed of green chloritic schists, striking as before. The islands lying out towards Marble Island seemed to be composed of the same rock. At the point north-east of Rankin Inlet, a shoal covered with boulders extends a long distance out to sea, and ob'.ig«'d us to keep our canoes a mile fi-om land. When we rounde«l this shoal, and again drew in to the land, we found it still comj)Osed of green chloritic schist.s, but they had turned and were striking N. 75 W., with dip S. 15' "NV., aKtut 60 . Kankiii Iiilt t. Thence westward for twenty miles, along the north shore of Rankin Inlet, the points and islands are compo.sed of green schist, but the bays are shallow and lined with boulders. Behind the beach are low grassy hills, with bosses of rock projecting here and there through the turf. Falstafi' Island is high and rounded, and consists of a light-green rock, )irobal)ly an altered diabase, showing very distinct concretionar}' structure, the face of the rock jiresenting the appearance of large oval masses piled together as closely as possible. Many veins of white quartz intersect the dialmse. A low Ijare island in the mouth (tf the inlet, on which we landed in crossing from shore to shore, is com])osedof light-green chloritic schist, Long shoal. AlU'ir.l (liali:i>c. IIUI»80N IIAV, 83 F turf. prohiibly an altered elastic n.ck, sirikin;.' N. O:. W.. with vortical «li|., Ali..r.HkU,ti hut also with ti vertical HJaty cioavair*! striking N. L'."> W. As.sooiatfd '"^^^■ with this Hchist is a nias.sivo ^ri'»Mi altered diuliase or gahiirt). The surfaco of tluH island is >troni,'ly glaciated. The west side and the liighor points are scored in a direction S. 70 K., Imt some of the depressions showed strong groovings S. .38 E. Well marked cross- fractures clearly indicat<'d the direction of motion of the ice. The high rocky islands seemed to he confined to the north side of Rankin Inlet, one lying west of the course travelled i^eing especially conspicuous. The .south side of the inlet is also rocky, hut the country fartlier south appeared to he composed of till and houlders. The point, a mile and a h.ilf south of Cape Jones, consists of light- Cui>f .1 .n.*. gray hiotite-gnei.s8, heavily ami almost horizontally foliated, traversed l)y occa.sional thin hands of mica-schist, and cut hy many veins of red granite and ijuartz contaiiung pyrite. The surface is strongly .scored hy glacial grooves, the last and genorai set hearing S. (».') K., while an earlier set Ixjars S. 20 E. From a short distance south of Cape Jones the sliore is low and composed of boulders, while grass-covered country, probably underlain by till, extenils back to low hills. Through the rounded surfaces of tiiese hilla Jagged knobs of rock, probably gray gneiss, occasionally project. Shoals, or low ridges of boulders, extend long distances out from shore, so that it was usually impo.ssible to travel in our canoes within a mile of the high-water mark. The rock at the point south of C 84 r nOOHAU.W KAZAN AMI KEHMHON ItlVKIlH. 41 iCI. t RcHk-riiniiiti- K'nitii II. I'i-tol l!av. T.iui r. int. portions show clciir glaciiil grtxjvps and stiim trending S. 75" E., the direction of gliuiiil motion hci- g distinctly inilicftted by tho rounded western sides, luid tho liroken eaatern sidos of the knolls. Oni' of the most interesting styles of rockdisinttigrntion in northern latituilfs is here very well shown. Tlu; diabii.se is cut by jointage planes into large angular blocks. On or near the summits of the bare rocky hills many of these angular blocks, especially those which art, smaller at the bottom thun at the to]>, base been lifted straight up by the freezing and thawing of the water beneath them, and the subse- i|uent contraction and expansion of the ico. They have then been sup- jiorted by fragments of rock that havj fallen betw»!en tho sides of thw blocks and the surrounding rock. Each winter the large angular blocks are raised higher, and the supporting stones fall into now positiotis, or are replaced by larger ones. Thus the.se blocks are often raised several feet above and out of the surrounding rock, and beneatli them, in the hole from which they have been lifted, there is usually a pool of clear water. From the point south of Corbett Inlet around to the north side of Pistol r.ay, the shore is composed of dark green diabase or gabbro, intersected by bands of highly crystalline light-green (juartzitic schist. At one point at which we were delayed, on the north side of Pistol Bay, this schist strikes S. 85' E., and dips N. 5' E., at an angle of 45'. The surface here shows strong glacial stria' trending S. 55' E. Lying out in Pistol Hay, between two and three miles from it northern shore, are several islands of light-gray massive granite. Krom these i.slands an almost direct course was taken for fifteen miles across the mouth of the bay to Term Point, which was found to be composed of dark-gray mica-schist, probably of Huronian age, striking S. 25' PI, and dipping S. G5 W., at an angle of 60'. It is cut by bands of light-gray gneissoid granite, and dark-green diabase. From Term Point westward the shoi-e is rocky, and the steep rocky cliffs descentl into rather deep water. The rock is a dark-green diabase almost entirely altered to saussurite, and is cut by many veins of (juartz and calcite, holding copper-pyrites. In the bottoms of the biys the line of high tide is marked by sandy beaches, and fifteen feet above these are other similar beaches covered with shells which are still remarkably fresh, and still higher up the slope aie othev similar raised beaches which exhibit a freshness that is '[uite startling to one coming from a more southern country, where erosion and decay are very much more rapid. y. I- X = £^ TVWNIU HUDSOy BAY. 85 r On the northern shore of Mistake Buy, nine miles west of Term MiBtaku lifty Point, is a long point of Kimihir ;^recn diahasp. Seven miles further south-west, alKjut the middle of the west shore of Mistake May, is a hi> > ' •' „ V /' i li ille Hay. find in the t'onner year the ground wan thickly covcn-d with snow, ho that it was inipossiblo to obtain nioro than a very general idea of the geology of tlio country. The south-west Hide oi Novillo May is usually rather low, witii long IK)int8 of iHiulders e.vtending out fnuu it into shallow water. Sir I'.ibby Island is a large, low island of till and IwiulderH, and b«itwepn it and the shore is a narrow sliallow channel, probably dry at low tide, with a lx)ttoni of boulders. Fmm this channel southward, for a short distance the shore is low and strewn with boulders, and then it becomes very bold anil rocky. Two miles south of Sir IJibby Island is a pn)minent rocky point, with a high rooky island lying a short distarjce off it. This point is com- posed of light- and dark green diabase or gabbro, while the rock on the island shows a slaty cleavage and breaks into long thin slabs. From this prominent point the shore turns westward and is bold and rocky, being composed of dark-green tine-grained dialtase, studded with copper-pyriti)s. J)ii\v8un Inlit. Dawson Inlet, lying to the west of this point, must be thirteen miles or more in depth, as we could not see to the bottom of it from the tops of the hills on the north shore. We crossed the mouth of this inlet to two islands, on which are l«)ng hills of .sand and boulders. From these islands south-westward for .several miles, the shore is low and thickly strewn with lioulders. Here and there it becomes very tlat and sandy. Hehind this sandy plain is an old beach, fifteen feet above the present one. A short distance further inland are a number of narrow ispatinow-like ridges of gravel and l»oulders runidng S. 50' E., parallel to the direction followed by the Keewatin glacier towards Hudson Bay. • Six miles south-west of the point at the mouth of Wallace Itiver, where we were delayed for five days in a storm, the tide runs out for a couple of miles, leaving behind it a wide sandy flat, studded with boulders, and partly covered with ropy seaweeds. Behind the beacli is a wide grassy Hat, dotted with small lakes, which extends back a couple of miles to the foot of an escarpment about thirty feet liigh, of sand and gravel. On top of this escarpment is a sandy plain without boulders. Near the shore are some low bosses of gray biotite-gneiss, rather irregularly foliated in a general north-east and south-west direction, and cut by many veins of red granite. Against the gneiss, though the exact contact was not observed, lies a band of rather thin- bedded white and pink Huronian quartzite striking N. 50° E., and with vertical dip. The surfaces of the beds are often strongly ripple- Piiiiit fi miles S.W. ,.f Wal. law? Kivtr. Ilk BVMON HAY. H7 r ninikjMl. Sitty t'iK't of .|uart/iu> ill nil ih ♦•xjxwimI. North wr»t of tin- i|imrt/.it»' lifind in a low Htrip of liirni, ftlKnit. JOO yiirlH wi.lf. ii- whiili no roik «'X|n.Min«H wpitt mitu, jiml iM-yorid it i-< n liuiul of mrpii HilicfoiiH schist, jiioliiilily (ilsn nf lliiroiiiiiri iii;»i, fli|ijiiiii» iiii(i out iif tlit'ir plmcs \>y tin- frnHt. From tluH pliin> s«iuiliwiir(l inv uniiy milfs, no im-k in |ilfi«t' w.i- b.w »li..i-. Hpeii, hilt tlic slioM) i« very tint iiiul strewn with hmililfiH, iiri'l thi< tidi- lit l(»w wuter runH out sovenil inilcs. In n.iith hitituilo '51 IH is a l)f«»iniiipnt cape, consist iiii; of two hijjii inoiainic ridyi's of ixtiihl.Ts. fiuin whi:?li (•xt('nsiv«> sli(»al.s nf 1miiiMci-s strctrh •^••awaiil for scsi-ra! luiifH, South w«>>t ef this point i.s a ;,'ioup of hills, appaionlly ni'iiainic ridK^s iind »'Hkors. Capo K8i|uitiiaux is a narrow eskt'i-likc i'i(l^<> Hevcrnl iiiihvs lony, treml- ^•■,^^„. injj 8. 73' K., with a ducp liut narrow Imy on tvich sitlo Tin* McurjHMl '■•-"i'"""*'*''- end of th« point shows the cut face of a terrace twenty feet lii;oats to stop as they travel lietweeii Ciiurchill mid Marble Island. Sentry Island, lyiii;,'ofl'Hsijihiaux Point, appeared tohea Umj^ kanie s.ntn Maul or druiiilin, rising ;,'enfly from Im.iIi ends, and like so many "f the ridges in the interior, with a Ifirye lioulder on the Hunimit. The pf K-.(|uiiiiaux I'nint. is a similar long sandy ridg** or esker, running S. 7^5 W'., parallel to the last, ijuite narrow, and altout twenty feet aliove high-water mark. Long iiars of Ixiuhlors extend .seaward from the eixis of both tliese points. Seven miles south-westward from the latter point, in a ifiunding bay, W(* came to a low tlat grassy shore, with a conspicuous driinilin- like hill half a mile inland. On the shore, two miles south of this hill, is a low boss of red gneiss. In north latituile (iO ."lO, McConnell Wiver discharges its waters in ^t,■f•,.llM«.ll a series of little channels for a mile or two along the lieacli, and olV '^'^''''• the mouth of the river a very extensive shoal extends .several miles out into the bay. On a level sandy plain, within the delta of the river, is a low rounded drumlin-like hill, which forms a very conspicuous feature on this portion of the shore. For several miles south of .McCcmnell Hiver, a level well-grassed SiUKly plain. sandy plain extend;^ along the shore, and then >;ome low rounded i .1 * 88 F POOHAI'NT KAZAN AND FERGUSON niVER.S. .3,:.... ,*•• ,. ,!,.. ,.::. . 1 r Alisencf of (IriftwcHKl. (iray gneiss. Egg Island. hills make their appearance. Eight miles south of the river a brook thirty feet wide flows into the sea, at the mouth of which is a sandy spit, on which we found some drifterJ pieces of dry willow, which had doubtless been brought down by the brook. These were the first I)ieces of driftwood found while we were tiavelling southward down the shore of Hudson Bay. It would seem that there is a persistent current flowing southward down this shore, and any driftwood that may be brought down by streams into the sea is therefore carried in that direction, until it is thrown upon the beach out of the reach of the waves. Consequently no driftwood was found north of those rivers wliich had wood growing somewhei'e on their banks. Four miles south of this brook, along a low Hat shore, is a low boss of red gianite. Four miles further south is the mouth of a small river, which dis- charges a con.siderable quantity of brownish water over the stony beach. Two miles further south, in approximate latitude 60'' 34', is a low rounded hill of gray g;:.eiss striking S. GO' E., and dipping 8. 30 W., at an angle of al)out 10 , but the gneiss is so intersected bj- veins of red granite that it is impossible to determine the dip very closely. The surface is s'MOOth and strongly glaciated, the grooves and stria* trending S. 73" W. The eastern sides of the knolls are rough and broken, while the western sides are smooth and rounded. For a long distance further southward the shore is all low. Hat and sandy, with bars of boulders lying oft", and parallel to it, and not pro- jecting out from it as before. In latitude 60' 7' is a low rocky point of red gneiss, and three miles and a half south of this point, in observed latitude 60' 3' 31", some large driftwood was found on the higher points of the shore, about where it would be thrown by the heavy storms, so that it is probable that we were then in the vicinity of the most northerly stream that has heavy timber growing on its banks, though as yet there was no sign of any trees on tiie shore. Four miles further south low ridges of sand and boulders began to appear along the shore, and three miles further on the country assumes a decidedly lumpy morainic appearance. Egg Island is a conical morainic knoll of boulders, lying in a gently rounded bay about a third of a mile from shore. The upper fifteen feet is covered with grass, whi!- the rest, which is washed by the waves and tide, is a slo[.e of naked boulders. The water between HL'DSOX BAV. 89 p the island and the shore seems to he deep, and there is a moderately high morainic iidt,'e of bouldeis on the shore opposite it. For live miles south of Egg Island the country consists of low rough hills of huulders, and the beach is composed entirely of bouUlers. It was so steep that at half ebb we were able to pass in our canoes within one or two hundred yards of tlood tide mark. Here was a point that had been cimspicuously marked by the Eskimos, for some of these r»eoi>le had raised a lar<:e drifted tree-trunk ''"'"'^ "' ''"' into an upright position on its summit, and had supported it there with heavy stones. The point is underlain with a coarse red granite, with a well rounded, roches moutonnt'-es surface. It is scored by dis- tinct glacial striie trending S. 15' E. A few glacial grooves were also seen trending S. 30' E., but wliether earlier or later was not determined. The boulders lying about are almost entirely of granite and gneiss, but a very few pebbles aie of Paheozoic limestone. The shore to the south continues to be strewn with boulders, though here and there the smooth granite or gneiss descends into the water. Six miles south of the Stan ling-stick Point is a knoll of modium-grained red biotite-granite, the surface of which is smoothly i-ounded on its western and broken and jagged on its eastern side. It shows many irregular glacial scratches, but one strongly marked set of paralhl grooves trends S. 60' E. In latitude 59' 28' 8 " is a point of rather fine and even-grained rusty red granite. In places the rock descends steeply into the water, and the point is probably a good landing place for small boats at any stage of the tide. At extreme storm-tide mark, a large quantity of driftwood is scattered on the shore, some fine large trunks of white spruce among the other smaller fragments of wood. Hubbart Point, several miles farther south, is the most easterly „ one of a number of stony morainic hills which extend southward for Point, several miles, separated by tidal Hats. The top of this hill, which is about forty feet above high-water mark, is moderately well grassed. On it are many stone mounds, evidently Eskimo j^raves, on and beside which are numerous spears, kettles and othe»' articles that have belonged to the Eskimos while alive, and have been left here with the bodies by the surviving relatives. A large quantity of driftwood had also been collected and piled up by the Eskimos on this point. Here Captain Luke Foxe landed in 1G31, 2G3 years before our first visit, and the description of it given by him would very well char- acterize the plac« as it appeared to us. In the distance towards J 90 p DOORAUNT KAZAN AND KERCUSON KIVKHS. Jt ... f ■ '• f ,0' X «l I.. to ui'lnal. I'usitioii. C'liaiai't.T I if lock. tlie south- west is an esoivrpiuent or ridge o£ hills. With tli«' fielil-ghisA this ridge was seen to be wooded with a coniferous forest, being the tirst trees that we had seen for many weeks. n South of Hubbart Point clumps of willows begin to appear on the shore. Souie low, bare, rounded bosses of grey gneiss were seen near the edge of the water, but though the surfaces were smooth and polished, the snow made it impossible to determine the exact direction of glaciation. Thence southward and eastward, to the bottom of IJutton liay, the shore is low and Hat, with a rather higher ridge in the background. At low tide a wide mud-tlat, covered with boulders, extends .seaward for sovtM-al miles. Treos, chielly small white spruce and larch, gradually approach the shore, until, at the bottom of Button Bay, the forest reaches to within a short distance of high-water mark. Port Churchill, The trading store and mission at Churchill are situated on the west side of the tidal lagoon at the mouth of the Churchill River, on an old sandy beach a few feet above high-tide level. Back of this old beach, which is between 100 and 200 yards in width, steep bare rounded hills rise to a height of 80 to 100 feet, forming part of the rocky ridge which extends along the west side of the river for several miles, out to the extreme end of Eskimo Point at the old fort, forming the bold promontory between the river and the east side of Button Bay. A similar rocky ridge also forms the east side of the mouth of the tidal lagoon, and thence extends eastward for a number of miles along the shore of Hudson Uay towards Cape Churchill. The rock is a greenish-gray e\ en-grained, false-bedded, felspathic arkose sandstone, in places very massive, and in other places more thinly bedded, often cut by many irregular veins of dull 'whirte quartz, which contain a large (juantity of magnetite. At th« rocky point below the mi.ssion it strikes N. 45' E. antl dips S. 45° E. < 70'. In the hill south of Sloops Cove it strikes N. 55 E., and dips S. 35° E. < 20', with ripple-markings showing on the planes of bedding. At the mouth of the river, near old Fort Prince of Wales, it strikes N. 65 E., and dips S. 25° E., < 70'. Its clastic character is every- where apparent, and here and there, scattered very irregularly through the beds, it contains well rounded pebbles, some of which are as large as the tist, of white clastic quartzite similar to the Hui'onian (^uartzite of Marble Island. The occurrence of these cjuartzite pebbles appears to associate this Churchill arkose with the red Athabasca con- TYUdllt. PORT C1IURCIIII.L. 91 P glomerate, with its wliitt- (luaitzite pebbles, wliich has been coirelateil with the Keweenawan rocks of Laku .Superior. The Churthill rock has been much more disturbed and altered than the Athabasca con- glomerate, but that may be due to quite local conditions. In a fissure, along the lines of bedding of this arkosc, on the soutli- CmihiM- east side of the rocky point below the mission, protected from any of J^'''"'"" tlie three glaciations shortly to lie (iescriljod, i.s, or was, a small outlier of a unaltered Cambro-.Silurian limestone containing a few cubic feet It is mainly composed of the following species of corals, which seemed to be in the same position in which they originally grew on the surface of the arkose, Cotiimnarui atccitlata, ( Joldfu.ss, Favosites (jotlJuiidkun, liam., and Cafapiecia Canndinsis, B. Scattered among the corals are fragments of the following shells: Diiiohohis iua(/iiificus{]) li., Rliijn- c/ionella, probably li. i)ie(/iiiva/i.Hs, Castelneau, or Ji. Antieostien.si/i, B., Orthnrcras, fragments of two oi- tliree small species, one marked with minute longitudinal ridges; Actinomrax, probably Jiichardsoni, Stokes, or Blgi^byiy Brown; Ci/rfdcerftn sp., apparently the same as one from Little Black Island, Lake Winnipeg; Il/aenns sp. Scattered along the shore in the vicinity are niany boulders of thin-bedded white limestone of about the same age, containing the following fossils, viz. : (.'a/apucia Canarlent W. All the summits and rooky hillsides sloping towards the north are smoothed and scored by this glaciation and all traces of previous glaciation are there obliterated. Salient points on ecastern and western slopes are also scored by glacial mark- ings trending south, overrunning and rubbing out the other earlier markings, which, however, have l)een left in the depressions. A short distance behind Cocole Point there is an almost vertical face of rock, running north-and-south and looking westward over a low wide grassy flat, which is strongly grooved horizontally by this glaciation, to the exclusion of any other glacial markiri^'s. The direotion of flow of this last glacier is clearly shown by the absence of this set of grooves on southern slopes, and by the presence in the grooves of numerous cross- fractures opening southward. This glacier was evidently a southern continuation of the one which farther northward Hows south-eastward and south-.southeastward to the west coast of Hudson Bay fi-om its ni'-vt' ground in the vicinity of Doobaunt and Yath-kyed lakes. The evidence of another glacier earlier than the one just described is also very distinct. Southern slopes, and those portions of the summits and western slopes protected by projecting bosses of rock from abrasion by the glacier from the north, are beautifully planed and strongly scored by glacial markings running N. 45' -55' E. The direction of t!ow of this glacier is clearly shown by the strong glacial markings on the protected south-western slopes, the grooves being constantly crossed by curved fractures opening towards the north-east, and the absence of this set of grooves on eastern slopes, however favourable these slopes might otherwise be for their preservation. The glacier that made these markings flowed north-eastward from the higher grr and down into Hudson Bay, being perhaps a local glacier following the general course of the Churchill River, at the beginning of the last glacial period. The evidences of a still earlier glaciation are much less distinct, for all traces of it have 'jeen swept from northern, western and southern slopes, and from every rocky projection. But on protected parts of hillsides looking eastward towards the river, are many well planed surfaces strongly scored by a parallel set of glacial groovings trending s. ■Mi ( X •r. X. .ft'"* :> TV IJ'*' s tc b( s«. tl b; St oi d( ill is nl di ,ftt :>» ,.»,■.• !t>' B th m w of 1., 'tl VI UI ar ar CO ol til CO be ne ev til St( su Tl ba an st( rvaniu. ] POHT CHUnCHlLL, 93 S. 80' W. This glneintiou is sliown to Ije older thnii that movint; towards the north-east at a nuinl)er of filaens where surfaces soorerl by both sets of grooves come in contact with nach other, hut especially at some well protected spots on the summit of the rid^e west of the trading store, where depressions, in the surface that is generally scitred by glacial grooves running north-westward, are scored by the earlier set of grooves and stria- pointing S. 80' W. The direction of motion of this, the earliest of the three glaciers, could not be as certainly determined as that of the other two, but pits rounded on their western and broken on their eastern sides indicale that the direction here ''iven is correct, and besides this many of the stiongly scored surfaces would almost certainly be untouched by a glacier moving in the opposite direction. Churchill is the most northerly point on the west shore of Hudson Day where any signs of a westward glaciation could lio detected, and the groovings here were probably caused by a more or less local glacier moving westward from a nevt'; near the shore, when the land stood some- what higher than it does at present, possiblv centring in the vicinity of Cape Churchill, thirty miles east of the mouth of Churchill Kiver. The transported boulders on the tlata and along the shore in the I'lansiortod vicinity of Churchill, cvmsist chiefly of local arkose rock or of white '""'''<''''*• unaltered Pahvozoic limestone, but a considerable number are of red and gray gneiss and fine-grained red granite, while a few small ones are of red riuartz-porphyry. All are \ery proljably derived from the country west of Hudson liny. Gravel terraces, on the sides of the hills and up to their summits, mark (jiavtl old shore-lines, indicating the gradual rise of the land in post-glacial '^'••'''«ce'*. times, since it has been unburdened from its load of snow and ice. Whether the land is still rising, or whether it has now reached a Ki.Mnt; ,,r condition of stability are interesting questions, and since Churchill has j'.^,,\,j ^^ ',! * "" been occupied as a trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company for nearly two hundred years, it is reasonable to e.xpect to find here some evidence of the relative positions of land and sea a comparatively long time ago. In 1733, the Hudson's Bay Company began building the massiv- |.,,ii(ii„fj,,f stone fortification, which they called Fort Prince of Wales, on the ^•^'."j|.'""'-*"f summit of the low point west of the entrance to Churchill Harbour. This fort is surrounded by a gravel-coveied plain or terrace, and the base of its walls is now seventeen feet above ordinary spring tide, and the top of the shingle beach, that is now regularly washed by the storm-waves at ordinary spring tides, is only six feet below the base of J 1 1 I. a 94 F DOOIIAUNT KAZAN AM) FERML'SON HIVKRS. i: .•I t ii* ; ... ' '•• •• ( !••' I.' I '- .•■• tfcf ,*l-» ' i« . 17. 1 I* ,1 .<• ♦■ Ill' I. '; NaliiiH (III till- llH-kM. Ice in the cove. 90 V DOOHAUNT KAZAN ANH KKKM'MON ItlVKRM. If tlio (leojK'st imrt of tlio mouth of the cttve can now b« seen, and if the ships n-tiuircd six feet of water to tloMl. th»'in into it. tliere would here lie evidence of tlie rise of tiie hind t(» tljo extent of two feet in tlie hist century and ii half, hut as ncitlier of these points are certain the evidence in favour of this rise is too iiuietinitt' to l)e considered at presijnt. On the rocky walls of the cove, planed smooth by the second ylacia- tion from the south-west, many names have been enosite to them : — James Walker May y' LTi 1753 7 ft. Guilfi.rd Long May y 27 1 753 7 ft. J. -Marley, \7-if< 6 J ft. J. Horner, 1746 6 ft. J. Wood. 1757 G ft. Furnace and Discovery, 1741 3 ft. 3 in. As the ice does not leave Churchill harbour, on an average, until the 19th of ,Fune, and has not been known to break up in it before the 5th of June, the two names first mentioned above were undoubtedly cut while the ice was ^n the cove at its highest winter level, which at the present time would certainly be not more than six feet l)elow them, and the surface of the snf>w would probably be still higher. .Since the names would in all pr placed in the rock at various liei^^hts for the nnM)ringH of tlie ships or sloop.s. As they are all well set in the rock, they were probably inserted there by the masons at work on the old fort durinj^ the last two decades of the first half of the 18th century. Thfise five feet or more above the ice of November :.'nd, IH'J.S, are still firm and strong, while (tthers two feet and a half above the ice have been almost entirely r listed away. The former have evidently been conip iratively free from the inlhience of the salt water, while the latter have been subjected to its intluence, having been wet by very high titles, and splashed by the water in heavy storms. The positions and states of preservation of these rings clearly indicate that there has been no great change in the relative heights of land and water since the molten lead was poured round them as they were set into the rock. Throuixh the kinthiess of the officer of the Hudson's Buy Company i)..it.,(..f in charge at Churchill, the writer was granted the privilege of inspect- X>'\ul:^n" iii<' a more or less broken series of "Journals of Occurrences " extend- fliunliill ^ .,,.,,. HiiilxiMr. insr as far back as 1824, and from them was obtained the following record of the opening and closing of Churchill Harbour. The harbour opens suddenly, when the ice breaks up in the lagoon and goes out of the river with the tide. It c'oses more gradually, freezing from the shore out to the middle', and the date here given, in most cases at all events, is that of the final setting of the ice from shore to shore ; for some days previous to this date the shore will have been jiretty thickly coveretl with ice. HI* .J ll» .»«• i:. 1«; .*>•■ ..•» ■w' ::i f.. % r fi. «t. ••• **>. Mod.' (if trawl. O.s r uoonAUNT kazan ami rEUnirtoN uivkus. Dates of tho opening and closing of thn Huihour iit Port Chiirrhin. Avt-nif/c 1 1 I.Tuiic lil \<,v. IH , r> iiiiiM r. „ 4 .. K!ll'li>"> Im wooHofl, .tml In (lie woods tlic HtKtw would !,»• M.ift, aixl tin- iHif of uiivel, h'ltlifor iiit'ii and dogn, n»iiH(*(|uontly niucli slower. After i!roMsiii;{ the Cliunliill llivcr on the iee, our course, for /iI>out i,,.v,.| twenty five inileH, was a little v.uth of .-Hst, ovtir level o|ieri c tuiitry, *•'"""*•■>■• iiitijrsporm'd witli mmiiII lakes. More imil fher«Mi Honiewhiit higher tract Ih wiKxleil with Hiuall white Hpriice. Two ridges of sand or f^ravnl, hetvveen twenty and twenty-live fcoi in iici^'ht, wen< crossed in tliiH di--tiince. At a forest known us the " llusiern W(kkIs," we t irned Hoiithward and travelled over almost level niai-hy country, wliicli, in some piaceH, is i|uite open, hut is usually thinly wuch, was crussed. As Sdnmn Creek is approached the country is covj-rcil with h»w scruh of dwaif birch and wi'low, or extends in wide f(raH.sy plains very similar in apjjcarance to those of Manitoba east of the Pemliina Mountains. Salmon Creek is a small Htieam about twenty feet wide, flowinu between ^'''^''^y "'' "iHowy banks. Hrnad lllver, wliich llows thruu;{h a wide, h-vei, almost treeless, jilain, is about a hundred yards wide, with low banks wooded with spruce. A few miles farther south, Owl Uiver, eighty yards wide, Hows across this same open plain. On Stony lliver the woods de.scend to withiti a, short distance of the sea-shore. A short distance .south of White Partridge Creek the open country F,,i,.st ii.ruce Iteing tho lirst that we had necn on the coastal ])lain. White IJear Creek Hows throutjh this forest with a width of about twenty-tive feet. At the mouth of Duck Creek we reached the coast, and thence followed the west bank of Nelson Kiver as far as a point opj)Osite Seal Island. In this latter distance tho bank, which had been veiy ilat, and but a few feet above the level of the sea, rajjidly increases in height, until ft Flamljoro' Head it rises from the edge of the water in steep s^ariied cliffs lUO feet high, where it consists of unstratilied light-gray till, holding striated boulders of limestone, gneiss, granite, S:c. From the top of the cliff a thinly wooded swampy country extends westward into the intO''ior. SI* :> :oo F DOOBAINT KAZAN AND FERGUSON KIVERS. ROUTES EXPLORKD IX 1894. Cedar Lake to Iikindeek Lake. It. , ,i» i.» .,."' .'^(iKkatchewiin ItivL'l'. Pas Kidge The course followed by the party, fcoiii («raiul Rapids, up the Sas- katchewan Ri\ er to Cuniberlaiid, has been often tlescribed by others, and its general character is well known. The geology of Cedar Lake, and of the river below it, in given in some detail by the writer in his Report on North-western Manitoba, pp. 144 e — 153 e, in the Annual Report of the Geological Survey of Canada, Vol. V. (N.S ), 1890-91. A fuw notes may here be recorded on the river above Cedar Lake. From Cedar Lake to The Pas, a distance of seventy-six miles, the river, often broken into several channels, Hows through a wide luarsiiy plain or lowland. No hills break the level monotony of this vast plain except at Pine Bluff, where three or four wooded ridges approach the river. They seemed to trend in a south-westerly direction, and are probably druiidins, though it wa.". impossible to spare the time to go and examine them. The river banks everywhere are composed of fine stratified alluvial deposits, as far up the stream as the eastern limit of the Pas Indian Reserve, where the first stony bank slopes to the water. It is composed of a light-gray rather frialjle unstratified calcareous till, filled with irregular subangular pebbles and somewhat rounded boulders polished and scratched with glacial markings. The boulders are almost all of a pinkish Cambro-Silurian limestone con- taining crinoid stems, iVc. This sometimes varies to a limestone con- glomerate, occasionally with a .^andy matrix. There are also a few boulders of red and gray gneiss, massive hornblende-rock, etc. At the Pas mission house, the low ridge, which rises fifteen or twenty feet above the water, is composed entirely of similar till. Four miles above the Mission a hill or ridge approaches to within a quartet of a mile of the north side of the river. It runs N. 50' E., and rises seventy feet above the level of the flat country to the west. In ascending it a terrace is met with at the height of thirty feet, and the upper twelve feet is as steep as gravel will stand. The ridge, on the summit at least, consists generally of fine rounded gravel, with a few rounded boulders. The material is not well assorted, varying from fine rock flour to boul- ders fifteen inches long. The ridge is wooded with Bankaian pine and aspen poplar. As viewed from a distance to the westward, the summit of the ridge doe.s not appear to be either regular or horizontal, dipping to the north as it does to the south. CEDAR LAKK TO HKINDKKU LAKK. 101 V This ridgo tiikcn as a whole, from the mouth of KmAi Crook di.wn tlie Saskatchewan to a mile oi' tw(j l)elow the Mission, is vei-y simihir in character to the ridtre between Winni{)egosis an 1 Cedar Lakes, dropping abruptly towards the west and declining gently towards the east, the steep side being maiked by shore-lines and caf)ped by water deposits. This, then, may be a continuation of the .-^ame niorainic ridge, Above The Pas, the banks of the ri.ver are again conipoort on North-wcstfrn Manitobii, &c., |>i.. jM K— .')•'. k, Annual Report <;.<• ,4.'» ••» Reaver Lake. ll •• .(" .C • ■ ■ •■■ (1 ' * * J... ■fw k i;. • 1 XortluTiicdfte limestone. ll 1. 1 ■ (iraj' gneiss. Lo.vonema sp., Gyroceras sp., indiciiting the horizon of the Trenton, l»ut probably below the last. The boulders on this shore are chiedy of tine-grained green Huronian rocks, giving evidence of the presence of this formation at no great distance towards the north-north east. The Sturgeon River, above Sturgeon Lake, is about 200 feet wide, with banks wooded with poplar. In many places the water flows over a bed of flat-lying limestone, while the west and south-west banks often consist of clifis of this rock. The Red Rock portage, at the mouth of Goose River, is over horizontal white limestone, with a few traces of corals. Its surface is smooth and marked with glacial grooves trending S. 25^ W. The river is generally very swift and shallow, from which it derives its common name of Riviere Maligne. In the twenty-tive miles between Beaver and Sturgeon lakes there is a fall of about two hundred feet. straight valley. Beaver Lake lies along the line of contact of the Archaean and over- lying Palu'ozoic rocks, its west shore being formed of undisturbed horizontal white limestone, often cleanly jointed, while the east shore? and most of the many islands are of Archanin rocks, though the first island visited was of limestone. A small bare island, lying in the course of the canoes, was of thinly foliated wavy micaceous gneiss, striking S. 25' E., and dipping N. 65° E. at an angle of 70°, The sur- face is strongly glaciated, the glacial grooves all trending S. 20° W. The limestone escarpment follows the west side of the river up to Spruce portage, three miles above Beaver Lake. It is here about tifty feet high, and on its face, twenty feet above the river, is a terrace, apparently representing an old lake shore. The portage itself, on the east side of the river, is over a coarse red and gray augen-gneiss, very evenly foliated, striking S. 35' E. and dipping N. 55° E., at an angle of 50". From Spruce portage to Snake portage the banks are rather low, with low bosses of gneiss rising here and there through the louse gray stony soil. For about two miles above the latter portage the river is winding, above which it runs for several miles in a narrow even valley between rocky ridges forty to eighty feet high, that to the south-west being bold and bare, while that to the north-east is more sloping and wooded. The v;?lley runs along the strike of the thinly foliated biotite-^neiss, which in one place was found to dip N. 65° E. at an angle of 60°. The top of the ridge to the east is in the same place marked with glacial groovings trending S. 10° W. As the next portage is approached, where the river falls over a ledge of rather coarse reddish-gray granite, cut by veins of red pegmatite, scarps of TVHRElt ] CKDAH LAKE TO REINDEER LAKE. 103 F evenly and horizontally stratified gray sand twenty feet in height form the west bank, and foi' the next four miles, up to Leaf portage, a sandy terrace from twenty to twenty-five feet in height runs along by the river. The course of the river is now remarkably straight, follow- ing the strike of the rock, whi<.'h at Leaf portage is a well foliated, fine-grained gneiss. The glacial strife here trend S. 15° W. Above Leaf portage the river flows through small irregular lakes, to the south-west of which are high bare hills of light-gray granite. At Birch portage the rock is a coarse well banded red gneiss, strik- 15irclii)()rt»KP. ing S. 3(r E. and dipping N. GO' E., at an angle of 40'. The surface is well striated, in the same direction as at Leaf portage. Above Birch portage the river is wide, with an easy current, flowing in a rocky valley with sides densely wooded with poplar. This wide straight stretch of river is separated from Crow Lake by a rapid, which is passed on Dog portage, a short carry over a low rocky island. The rock is a rather fine-grained micaceous gneiss, with large white por- phyritic crystals of felspai-. It strikes S. 30° E. and dips N. 60° E., at an angle of 20°. The surface is strongly marked by glacial striie trending S. 10° E. At Crow portage on the opposite side of Crow Lake, the York boat brigade from Reindeer Lake was met on its way to Cumberland, carrying out the winter's trade in furs. Above this point the river breaks into a number of lakes, on one of which, called Pelican Lake, p,.ijcaii f.akt . the Hudson's Bay Company has a small tiading post. Between the trading post and Beaver Lake, a total distance of sixty-five miles, the river has an estimated fall of ninety feet. At the short portage above Pelican Lake, the rock is a coarse gray micaceous gneiss, striking S. 35' \V., and dipping S, 55° E., at an angle of 70°. Its surfaces show well rounded northern and craggy southern sides. Though much weathered and rather rough, it shows many glacial grooves trending S. 25 W. A mile and three-quarters to the northward are two portages quite close together, the upper one past a pretty little fall about twelve feet in height, where the water tumbles over a ledge of gray micaceous gneiss. Both around the top and part way down the sides of the rock at the falls, are many pot-holes, from one to two feet in p,,t.h„k.s. depth, worn out of the solid granite-gneiss by pebbles and boulders kept whirling by a heavy current. The largest pot-hole, which has been considerably deeper than the rest, has much of its northern side now broken away. It is close to the present fall, and about two-thirds of the way down the slope. ]Many of the pot-holes are clearly preglacial, the glacier having broken their northern and :> lot F DOOBAUXT KAZAN AND KER(iUSON UIVKRS. X ■ . if'* t:: in' wi - !.»•• kers. smootlily rounded their southern edgt's. The southern tdgeof the large pot-hoh> sliow.s this sniootliing very clearly. Two sets of striif an- here apparent, tho first trending S. la W. and the second S. ."50 W., hut it is probable that there is not a gi-eat diflerence in their age. It would ap])ear that a considerable stream, much larger than the present one, had llowed southward over this i-ocky baixier in preglacial or inter- glacial tin\es, perhaps carrying the Reindeer Rivei-, or part of the Churchill Iliver, the intermediate portion of the channel having since been blocked by till. At nine oclock on the eveninir of July the 10th, the party reached Frog portage, having travelled 180 miles from Cumberland, or 395 miles from the mouth of the Saskatchewan. The portage is about 300 yards long, over two low ridges of gray till studded with boulders of gneiss. To the west of the jvortage is the channel of the brook, much obstructed by boulders, cut oil" from the Churchill Kiver, except at high water, Ijy a narrow ridge of light-gray gneiss. The water south of the ridge was ten feet lielow that in the Churchill River. Opposite the north end of the portage the Churchill River is half a mile wide, with its banks and islands covered with poplar. (>n the nearest island is an old warehouse of the Hudson's Bay Company, while on a low rocky point just to the west of the portage, formerly stood an old trading house, perhaps the one built by ]\lr. Joseph Frobisher in 1775, when he first penetrated this then unknown wilderness to barter the products of civilization for the rich furs of the Indians. From him this great stream derived the name of English River. From Frog portage oui- course was down the Churchill River, for about twenty-one jnilos. The river at the narrower parts has a steady curient of from two to three miles an hour. Its banks are composed of gneiss, which is more or less deeply overlain by till, and the hills are we'd wooded with poplar. VAght miles down the stream several bare sandy hills rise to heights of sixty feet on its northern bank. They are narrow, lenticular ridges of loose sand, with a few boulders lying on their summits. The sides are as steep as the sand will stand, while the ends slope easily down to the general level, the south-western end being steeper than the north-eastern. They trend S. 25' W. in the direction of the glaciation, and are thus typical eskers, the first observed during the course of this seasons exploration. From these eskers to the Kettle Falls, ten miles further down the river, there is a well defined sandy terrace on the sides of the valley about twenty feet above the stream, doubtless caused by the damming up of the Churchill l^iver both at the eskers anil at the ^ap Ijdow the mouth of Reindeer River. The Reindeer River, and the Churchill River above CErJAl: t.AKK TO RKINDF.KK LAKE. 105 F it, (low in one continuous viilley, wliich the united waters loave l)y Cciuinuoiis what appears to bt; a narrow gap in the hills to the east. At Kettle ^""' ■^• Falls the Churchill lliver precipitates itself in a inagniHcout cascade over a ridgo of thinly foliated lii'lit groenisli-gray gneiss, striking S. 15 E. and with vertical dip, while six miles to th(! north Iveindeer River ruslies in the opposite direction over a barrier of coarse light- gray porphyritic gneiss. For the next thirty-two miles up lleindeer River, to St;'ep-hill Falls K.iiicl-cr and portage, this latter stream tills the bottom of a valley between ^'^'■'• hills from 200 to 400 feet in height, and has the character of a long narrow lake rather than a river, for only in three or four places could current be detected. On both sides deep bays fre(|uently indent the shore. Some of the hills are rugged and almost hare, though most of thera are covered with forestn of aspen. The rock is a dark or light gray gneiss, with u generally roughened surface, though here and there a few points are smoothed and show glacial groovings. Below Steep, hill portage the rock is a coarse gray hornblende-gneiss, striking N. 20' E., and dipping N. 70 W., at an angle of 17 . Below Steep-iock Fall there is quite a heavy rapid, and at the fall the water Hows in several channels between islands wooied with spruce, tumbling fifteen feet over a band of gneiss. The portage is over a hill rising forty feet above the water at its lower end, composed entirely of light-gray com- pact clay, apparently without boulders. In the next eighteen miles WuK' Kivtr. the river widens into several small lakes, and the banks rise in gentle rocky slopes, the knolls of bare gray gneiss peeping out here and there through the co\'ering of poplar woods. Between the knolls the surface is underlain by ligiit-gray till. Then for seven miles it llows in a regular, well-defined channel, winding through a low bottom-land wooded with small spruce and tamarack, behind which rise the rocky ridges. At the upper end of this well defined channel the water rushes ]\[;viiit(ni between high, almost vertical, rocky walls, forming what are known Rapids, as Manitou Rapids, where the canoes ascending are passed with difficulty over a low rocky island in the middle of the stream, and then paddled with all possible speed across the rushing current to an eddy in a bay on the eastern bank, failing to reach which they are sometimes engulfed in the heavy waves below. Above Manitou Rapids, the river opens out into a small lake with rocky shores. Passing from the southern to the north-western angle of this lake, a distance of four miles, the stream is again encountered as it descends about sixteen feet in two distinct falls ovei' a rocky ledge lyi I .4 106 F DOOHACNT KAZAN AM) FKKUCSON RIVERS. ( >(. £■ '•', i»«' •1 ' .,tn >•' «i ■Ji •1.. '»<■■ 1 rU. ♦ij ■ I.. White Sun.l composed of a rather coarse fj;ray liornhlendt'-gneiss striking N. 25' K., IK.rtugf. ^^^1 flipping N. G5 W., at ii liigli angle. The portage on the south side is over gneiss and light -gray sandy till with boulders. At the foot of the portage a rounded knoll shows strong glacial groo\ings trending S. 17 W. On the north side of the falls are cliffs about fifty feet high of orange coloured stratified sand and gravel, showing a section of the south end of an esker which stretches from this point away to the northward as a high wooded sandy ridge, culminating near its northern end in a point probably 150 feet in height. Above White Sand Falls the river opens out into another small lake, on both sides of which are sandy terraces fifteen feet above the water. Above this lakelet is a short stretch of current, at the head of which is a fall of Work iHiitiige. eight feet. Canoes reach the ijuiet water above it by a short portage, across a bare island of similar gray gneiss striking N. 55' E., the sur- face of which .shows distinct glacial groovings trending S. 17" W., as before. This island is known fis Rock portage, and the open water to the west of it i.s the southern end of Reindeer Lake. Ktiiiilctr Lake. Above Rock poitage the country at once becomes much more barren and rocky. Below it the hills were fairly well covered with till, but now the till seems to have disappeared, and a few pines and spruces cling to the brown lichen-covered rocks. The sandy terrace is, how- ever, still present at about fifteen feet above the water. From a small trading store of the Hudson's Bay Company our course was northward along the eastern side of Reindeer Lake, generally wind- ing among its almost innumerable islands. Du Brochet post, at the northern end of the lake, was reached on the afternoon of the fifth Kdcky short'.-!, day. The shores throughout are exceedingly rocky and the rock is generally a typical Laurentian orthoclase-gneiss more or less foliated. Till is notably scarce, but the sandy terrace or old lake beach is almost everywhere seen between fifteen and thirty feet above the water. The Hudson's Bay Company's store and the Roman Catholic mission at the north end of the lake are built on this terrace. The glacier of at least the latter part of the glacial epoch followed in a general way the long axis of the lake, as shown l)y the courses of the glacial stria', flowing south-westward from its north-western end, and south-by-west towards its southern end. One set of stria' was all that could be found any- where, and no evidence was found such as to indicate any other direction of glacial motion at any time during the glacial period. The dark lichen-covered liills bear a scattered growth of l)lack spruce, with an occasional stunted canoe birch, on the lower slopes, while a few small Banksian pines and aspen poplars grow on the sandy terraces, almost to the north end of the lake. Uiitctinn of glacial ioi). COCnRANE RIVER. 107 V The distance ti-avelled from Fro;,' porta-^'e to Du Brochet post was about 250 mile-i, and the total distanco already travelled in canoes 645 miles, in which distancj there are nineteen portages. COCHHAXE RiVKIi. Du Brochet trading store and mission are situated on a sandy l>ii llrocliet terrace near the north-eastern extremity of Reindeer Lake, three miles '"-^" from the mouth of Cochrane River. Many of the islands in the bay to the south, are encompassed by high bouldery beaches, giving evidence of the presence of till, or more probably morainic detritus, in the vicinity. The position of the store was found to be in north latitude 57° r)3' 16", while ]Mr. Bowling's survey of 1892 places it in east longitude 101° 52' 42". Variation of the compass in July, 1894, 20' 30' ea-'"i"iit<'. been smoothed and grooved, the grooves trending S. 30° W. It is passed by a portage ISO yards long on the west bank, over a neck of land composed largely of boulders. A mile above this portage is a swift rapid a (juartw of a mile long, up which the canoes were taken with tow-lines and poles Two miles above this rapid the .anoe-route for a time leaves the £.,,„„^>.rf,„ty river (which continues on towards the norih-east, and is said to be verv •v'*^*'^ ^'^^ \ " nvtr. crooked, with one bad rapid), and crosses through a chain of small :> .SI" 108 F DOOBAUXT KAZAN AND Fi;n(ii:80N HIVEnS. il ' ;?' Ml ;•; £ I . ">• 11 ' •» - •■•'" iiHEii ] COCIIUANK HIVER. 109 west hank a sandy terrace rises just behind the I)eacli to a heij,'ht of twenty-five feet. Half u mile further west is a hi h saiidv rid-'e For the next thirteen miles the river flows on a very direct course from north 28' eas^. The current is nowhere very strong,', and in the wider places is hardly apparent. The banks are either low or rise in sandy ridges. Not many exposures of the underlying,' gneiss weie to be seen. At the camp of the evening,' of July •_'2nd, where the east bank was more particularly exfimined, the flats were wooded with Banksian pine, behind which was a ri(lii:ititi( «- uneven rocky tloor, the positions of the ispatinows being determined by the existence of high rocky prominences, and their direction by tli< flow of the ice. The general chaiacter of these ispatinows, and tli.' presence of a large amount of glacial detritus in this vicinity, and its absence from such considerable areas as that around Reindeer Lake, will be considered in a later chapter. The ridge is wooded with si rail Banksian pines, while the low land is covered with black spruce and birch. At the north end of this straight reach of rivtr, the boulder- pavement \] is particularly well shown, fifteen feet above the water. Near V)y is a ' ' rounded boss of a granular reddish, slightly biotiti*^ granite, with dark schistose inclusions. The surface is well smoothed and shows strong glacial grooves trending S. 30' W. Here, in north latitude 58° 22' 45 ", the river leaves its well defineil I. channel, and comes from the north-west, where it flows through a number of larger and smaller lakes. At the first narrows between these lakes there is a stiff current, and tf» the west is a high ridge of sandy esker-like hills. Other high bare hills of sand and boulders rise on every hand, and the country looks very desolate and barren. A few outcrops of the underlying rocks enable one to keep track of their character. One of these outcrops is on a small island three miles and a half from the last-named narrows, and consists of dark hornblendic gneiss striking N. 60° E., and dipping S. 30" E., at an angle of 60°. Its surface is distinctly marked with glacial grooves trending S. 13° W. A few miles further north, in latitude 58" 31', a high hill of gneiss rises from the west bank, being the first conspicuous rocky hill seen in the ascent of this river. .miller IVClIllIlt. llkns. til) I lit t 110 r DOOIIAUNT KAZAN ANU KKIUIL'SON UIVEHS. i^luiiij Lak. N. ;ji!>-"** ,.•. .»•* 1 1- ■ •■• ',.- ..- ' •« t ^'•'^ i:.'if- «. ■ ■ •'- ,.» '«>' >.%, Dii I'.r i. . 'f».- LhIm-. ( . '!*• ••' ■T>-;7 •1 '"" K ;:i' 1. •» :-.h: I! ..* ■If' i.'h. I Towftfds the iiortlieast, a siniill river was said l)y tln' Ttidians to «!iii|)ty into the liottoin of the (It'fp l)ay tliat oxtoiids in that dii'tsction. I'j) this stream is a prai'tii'iil)io camn'-rDUto across a h('ij,'lit-o£-hind tiiruii^'h many small low-Iyin^' lakt's connected by swampy jjortagcs to Nfit'ltin or fshind Lake, and tlience down Thh'wiaza Hiver to Hudson Bay. North of the rocky hill the river contracts, and then widens again to a small lake, from the north-went an<,'le of which is a portage 800 yards long, through a swamp and over a low ridge of clay and houlders. West of this portage is a long narrow lake which the canoes cross for two miles in a south-westerly direction, to a swift deep narrow creek 15 feet wide ami 200 yards long, with a fall of G feet from the next lake above. Jta hanks are of boulders. Five miles and a quarter above this creek, through a curving lake and past a heavy raj>id with a full of eight feet, the next porUige is reached. It is lilOO yards long and rises at it'< southern end to the top of a dry sandy plain thirty feet above the rivei-. It keeps ou this plain through most of its length, a sandy ridge twenty feet higher exttMuiing along to the north east of it. Close to its north-western end the ground becomes rougher, and a few bouldeis are scatteretl through the sand. The total rise from one end to the other is about ten feet. The uppt>r en'' of the portage is on the shore of Du Brochet or Pike Lake, the laryest lake on C'ochiane River between VVollaston and Reindeer lakes. Its altitude is about \2',\0 feet above sea-level. The lake ai)pears to be shallow, with low shores of sand and boulders. To the south are some rather high hills, and to the north the country is low. swampy and wooded with black spruce, the low hills here and ther-e being composed of gneiss. The general direction of the glacial stria' is about S. W, by .S, The whole body of water known as Du Brochet ivake, which the canoeroute traverses for thirty-eight miles, is divided into three parts by two short reaches of stream, the first with an easy current, and the second seven miles from the west end, is a heavy rapid with a drop of about eight feet. This latter was ascended with tow-lines. At the west end of tiie lake is a portage 300 yards long over a low swanifiy island covered with yellow cloud- berries [RkIius '•Jiaiiic'iiionit^}. In high water this portage is not used, for the canoes can ascend the channel of the river to the south of it. Above this portage a small double lake, with rocky shores, extends for six miles, beyond whieli the river flows for ~two miles, with a strong current, between W(H)ded sandy Ijanks, to a narrow gap, where it cuts through an eske.- df stratitied sand and gravel, extending as a TT»«m, «'0('1IUANK IIIVKH. Ill K lon« «von ri(l),'p away t<. tli.; soutli. A mile .inasses through a low range of hills, between sixty and eighty feet high, "of c )arse, brown thinly foliated gneiss striking N. 15' K.. and dipping 8. 75' E., at an angle of 4")"." "The hills here divide and run along on either side of the river. They are not burnt, but are coveted with a sickly growtli of small Banksian pine, spruce and birch." Five miles above the up)ier end of these rapids, Drifting Lake was l>iiftiuf,' entered, and a mile farther south " the rock suddenly ends, and the I . I 111 » ■ ■• I Ill' p DOOIIAUNT KAZAN AM> KKHdl'HON tUVKIlS. v 1 !«■• ■•"■ , iC * * ' •■■» «l s 1 •t»... I i;,.. t uf Cliain of |)oita^'i's. isliuitlH imd piiiMtH |iasHtHl urn I'liiiipimt'd of huikI atid ({ravel, with koiiio Ixdildcis." (tray ;,'iu'iss wan s««'ii outi'rM]>|iiii;{ at tlif wat»>r's ed'^*! in one Di- two plaaw on this lakf Tin' riv«'r, wliitli «'iiI«'ih hiiltinjr Ijiko at soint' low coiintrv oi» its norlli \vc>t sidr, is followed liy (lie ciiiioo- roiite tor niin' miles, past llie mouth ol' Suii^ihadow Itiver, flowing t'rutn Sunsliadow liukc, seven or ei>,'ht miles to the north. The can-route leaves tho river on the west siile of a small sheet of water known as Mi;,'-stone Sittitiji I^ake, halt a mile south of whero Coehram^ I5iver enters it, and imssin;; over three |)ortai;es, resp'-etively l"0, I'lO, and 41.") vafds in leh;,'th, reuehes a deep hay in the north shore of Wollus- ton Lake, avoiding,' what wis Ktated to he a lont,' and rapid pieee of river. In this northern arm of tlu; l.ilve the underlyin>{ I'oek is seen in very few plaees, "the points ainl inlands l)ein;,' all either .sand and Hno 1,'ravel, or houlders and sand, all very low. The hills, also, horderii^' the shoreline, are all low. ' Let us now return to t!ie porta;;(! on the route to White Partridj^o Lake. As stated aljove, the poi ta;,'e is t)00 yaitls lon^ over the .sandy eskei", whieh is liei-e seventy feet hijjh. At hoth «'nds are steep .slope.s, the iNistern one leading dovm to the sliore of a lonj^ narrow lakelet about fifteen feet ahove tiie liver. The esker in {.jenenil chfiracter is a re;.'ular, well-detined lont; sandy ridi,'e, hut in detail it here ri.ses in iT.aiiy little knolls and rid;,a's, sinks into deep depressions and spreads out into sandy plains wooded with an open ^rrowth of lar;;e Hanksian pine. < )n the porta;j;e itself is a ifrove of tine tall white spruce, the best trees .sef>n on the hanks of (.'ofhrane |{iver, and here the Indians seem to resort regularly to obtain wood for their canoe.s, while birch bark can be procured from trees on the same .sat 'y ridge a short distance farther north. The narrow lake now reached runs northward for three miles and a half, with the sandy ridge, wockUhI with large white spruce and birch, on its western side, and a ridge of gneiss to the east. At Liie north end of this lake a portage 200 yards long leads over a sandy ridge to another small lake similarly .situated to the la.st. Thence, extending in •> direction N. 28" E., is a chain of five small lakes at about tho same altitude, with saiuly shores thirty to seventy feet high, thiidy wooded with spruce, larch and iJanksian pine. Towards the north some of the ridges contain a great many cobbles and rounded boulders, but no outcrops of the underlyin'; rocks were to be seen. The lakes are, respectivtily, one, two-thirds, one and three quarters, four, and two and a quarter miles long, and are connected by portages 20, 40, 800 and 1 000 yards long, the longer ones being over sandy plains, witli steep slopes forty feet high at each end. The.se portages and small lakes are on the height-of-land between Cochrane and rvMiik. 1 rill.KN* I AZA IMVKIl. witll KUIIIO (I'M fdj^e ill Itin^ Lake tlu' CIUKIC- • will;,' tVitlll IIKM' t'OUlO known as niw niver I, 21 0, iiiul of W'ollas- (1 iiifcf of : in Necn in il ami tiiii! IxMdorinjj Partridge the sandy 't'p slopes, :>\v lakolet araetor is Hi rist's in 1(1 spreads Hanksian )ruce, the e Indians hilo birch B a .sh(jrt ortliward ith large isH to the ong leads the last, nail lakes enty feet Towards 1 rounded > be seen, quarters, portages er sandy portages ane and 'liailiiiK')'. Thiowiaza rivtMs. at an approviiri-u.- fl.'\ati m ..f 1 f.'.". tVet above the HPft. WVst i.r' the forty-van' portugc is tli.. nui tli.in licnd of Cochrane IJiver. above which the riv.: oonicx finm thf sotith-wcst. Tlll.i;\MA/.A li!\ Kl!. l-'roni the north .mkI of thtt last of i h.- ali>i\f di-st'iihcd lakes, ii poi-tagc 7UU yards long leads over hare rii;,'ged nioraitiic hills of iMuuded cobbles and liould( is to the southern end white spruce up to stnenty-six inches in circuiiference, throe feet above the gi'ound. The lake is "fty fet^t below the IJl"- l«> .01 t ,#» ,.»» ,c 1^' I .,••' ,1-.. ,!c:. 1"- .•' » .«" (* -*^ .J i .•• ,>''l ^' If:: Iv. •1 ' ..»»•' f ' ,.•' ,|U- M** in& (*" 1 1 i»- ■ ,.k«*" *«•» J,. . '»,!• 1 "l'' ' '.I, ,..1 t. >- ;■ ;ii' (i .,-.. ' TVRRBIL ] THLEWIAZA RIVER. 115 Lake. Below Edehou Lake it is said to ^uw with an easit t current and to empty into Hudson Bay a day's journay north of Egg Island, or two days' journey south of Cane Estiuimaux. From the north end of Theitaga Lake, the canoe route to Kazan Theiwyuzk- River ascends a small stream, here called Thebayazie River, from the name of one of the Chippewyans who accompanied us. It is about fifty yards wide, with a fairly strong current, tlowing over a bed of angular masses of gneiss. Half a mile above its mouth is a rapid, wliere the water falls over a ledge of light-gray gneiss striking N. 60' E. and dipping S. 30" E., at an angle of 30 \ The canoes were carried past this rapid, on the east bank, over a portage 300 yards long. The track is a bad one, over rough, irregular masses of rock, and it was with difficulty that a spot could be fou. d anywhere in the vicinity sufficiently level to sleep on. A Hock of the beautiful Bohemian waxwing Amiielia {A in])eli>i gay'rulus), was seen in a grove of small birches beside the^^""""" rapid. As it was the 30th of July the birds were doubtless on their breeding ground, of which so little is known in North America. Un- fortunately, time and the long journey still ahead of us did not allow us to search for the nests and eggs. For fifteen miles, Thebayazie River comes through a chain of small lakes connected by rapids, where the river generally Hows over a bed of boulders and between banks of boulders. The shoving of the heavy ice in spring has packed the boulders down to an even pavement^ and IJonUlir shoved the sides back into even walls, giving the channel the appear- ,,av(>uitiits. ance of a regularly built chiite of dry masonry. Up some of these rapids the canoes could be towed with a line, or hauled by hand while walking in the water, but in the latter case the bed of boulders gave a difficult and uncertain foothold. Past others it was necessary to carry everything over the rough stony flats or ildges of boulders. The portages are as follows: — 575 yards on the east side, 700 yards Lon"'''^''S*'''- b^rween two lakes, and 180 yards on the west bank. The surround- iiio country is low and swampy, but low ridges of boulders rise here and there, and one sandy hill stands on the east bank about a mile and a half above the mouth of the river. Above the uppermost of these small lakes, the river flows for two miles and a half in a winding channel, for the first mile between low marshy banks, and then through a plain of stratified sand, to the foot of a heavy rapid over boulders, past which is a portage, on the west bank, of 500 yards, along the side of an almost bare lichen-covered hill of till and boulders. Just above the head of the poitage is a 'nil 8* » I 116 F DOODAUNT KAZAN AND FEBGUSON HIVEBS. Hills of gviinite. it y ,«. ■••■■' ' ''I' .'ili. . ,iti«' Jh'uinliiis. of a riitliei- coarse red biotito-granite, mueh jointed, anil breaking into angular frai^'inents, especially on its southern, but also on its nortliern side. Its surface is well polished in places. Coarse glacial grooves are entirely absent. l)ut on the polished surfaces scratches and fine grooves can generally be detected, all trending 8. 18 W. A udle and a ijuarter higher up the stream a hill of similar granite rises on tiie east bank. These were the first rock exposures seen since leaving the rapid at the mouth of the river. Tlu'ee miles farther up the rapid crooked river, is a portage 240 yards long on the west side, and a mile farther is another portage 60 yards long, also on the west bank. Across a shallow lake a mile and a third in length, is a port- age on the east bank, 47-") yards long, over a low flat mossy swamp. A mile farther, across a similar shallow lake, is another portage 550 yards long on the west bank over an almost bare ridge of very bouldery whitish till. Seen from here the country appears generally low, flat and wooded with smrdl black spruce, while ten miles away towards the north-northwest, half way between this point anfl Kasba Lake, Roosevelt Hill rises as a conspicuous landmark high above the sur- rounding plains. A quarter of a mile to the north, across a small shallow pond, i« Grassy portage, IGOO yards long, on the west side of the river, 1100 yards being across a marshy meadow, and 500 yards along a low sandy ridge to the head of the rapid, down which the river flows over angular masses of rock with a total fall of twenty feet. Three quarters of a mile higher up stream another portage of 125 yards on the same side runs across a grassy flat to the mouth of a small stream coming from the suuth-west, and carrying about half the water of the main stream. A quarter of a mile higher up stream, at a portage 50 yanls long on the east bank, the latitude was found to be 59 58' 38". and the magnetic variation "JS east. Half a mile up stream is another portage, 1750 yards long, on the east side. Tiie portage is a good one, over gentle hills of sand and gravel. Here and there little hills of boulders rise abruptly above the general level. To the east are many drundins or rounded hills and ridges of boulders trending southward. The portage passes a series of shallow rapids in the river, in one of which is an outcrop of a reddish-weathering biotite-gneiss, \. ell laminated and lying horizontally. It has easily rounded contours, but is generally rough, with a few small polished surfaces, especially on northern angles, though no strife could be seen. On the west side of the river is a long straight esker trending S. 2' E., and from fifty to seventy Ill breaking also ou its >arse glacial ratfhes and 18- W. A granite rises seen since farther up e west side, m the west h, is a port- •ssy SNvauip. jortage 550 5ry huuldery illy low, flat ,'ay towards \asba Lake, ove the sur- ow pond, i* f the river, 'ds along a ; river flows eet. Three >5 yards on mall stream vater of tlie I portage 50 59 ' 58' 3S". ong, on the »f sand and uptl}' above Dunded hills ige passes a an outcrop and lying irally rough, lern angles, )f the river J to seventy >< N - y. Ill •Jpl'*- .#1 > ill" ■• ; Hi ' ...i» 1 ,•■' '1 CI ' ■<%, !.■ %.- , t li..^ . m mf ii ■''I TYRReiL. THLEWIAZA lUVER. 117 F feet in height. Its surface is composed entirely of sand and gravel. Plsktr. Its crest is narrow, and its sides slope at angles of 32' to 35 . On its west side is a lower ridge, joining the higher one at its southern end, and making an inclosed hollow between them. A few small stunted aspens were growing near the foot of its western slope, marking the Northern northern limit of the tree in this longitude, as far as observed. '"" " "*'^*^"' A quarter of a mile above the head of this portage, another portage on the east bank, 180 yards long, leads over a hill of very much broken gneiss; and half a mile above, a portage 600 yards long, on the left bank, leads over a spur of the esker above mentioned to a wet stony spot beside the stream. Al the foot of this portage is an out- crop of similar gray biotite-gneiss almost horizontal, or with a light dip towards the south. It is very much fractured and broken along jointage planes, so that in most places it looks more like a bed of boulders than rock in place. Here and there its surface is smooth and polished, but no striie could be detecte J. A mile and a quarter up the brook is a portage r)00 yai'ds long on the west bank. It is a rather bad one, on a gentle slope underlain by boulders, and through spruce and tamarack swamp. The tops of the surrounding hills are now for tho most part bare of trees. A quarter of a mile beyond a small lakelet is another portage on the same bank, 475 yards long, through swamp at both ends, and for the rest along a bouldei'y hill side. Again, after crossing a small lake a mile wide, there is another portage of this chain, 500 yards in length, along a very stony and almost open hill. Up to this point the boulders seen were of Laurentian granite and gneiss, but on this hill there are also some of gray cjuartzitic sandstone and altered conglom- Huronian erate, probably of Huronian age. A mile and a quarter higher up stream, beyond another small lake, is a portage 250 yards long over low stony ground. Half a mile beyond is a portage 300 yards long over a ridge of boulders, and nearly half a mile farther is another 150 yards long, across a broken ridge of very coarse red granite containing well formed crystals of orthoclase with biotite and rounded crystals of translucent (juartz. A mile in the canoe, on a crooked lake, leads to a portage 500 yards long beside a shallow dry valley to the shore of Roosevelt Lake. A quarter of a mile east of the portage, Roosevelt Hill (so named by Mr. Munro-Fer- Ro(i.-*evt'lt ^^uson after Mr. Theodore Roosevelt, of New York) rises with steep sides to a height of 200 feet above the lake of the same name, or 1G50 feet above the sea, and is the highest point in the vicinity. It is composed of coarse or medium grained red biotite-granito, quite massive but cut by vertical joints. The hill is in the form of a short boulders. * it I Hill. 118 p DOOBAUNT KAZAN AND FERCiDMON RIVERS. <•* ' it .•I 1 1"' '' ('■ ',, iS. > iiti.* ic:..3 . .11* : ...i:. ';T ,1 ;:!'"; «,'i.^ Roosevelt Lake. ridi'e extendinir nortli-and-south. more rounded on its northern than on its southern side. From its summit an extensive view can be had of the surrounding country. Roosevelt Lake, dotted with thinly wood- ed islands, stretches out to the west, beyond which Kasba or White Partridge Lake can be seen as a shining white line in the distance, while in other directions lines of water may be seen to extend through the now almost treeless country. For about three miles the canoes crossed Roosevelt Lake, winding among its rough stony islands, which are wooded with small black spruce. The boulders of which they are composed are almost entirely of coarse red ''raiiitp. At the bottom of a narrow bav a small lirook tlows among the stones into the lake, and to tlie oast of it is a portage 400 yards long over rough boulders and boggy ground. At most of the portages on this route the landing places for the canoes are very bad, being on rough Ijeachesof irregular angular boulders, whic' , when the wind is l)lowing and the water is at all rough, furnish very uncertain footing for the men, and may scratch or break the canoes. Beyond a little lake a third of a mile long, a portage of 400 yards long leads over a stony iiill. At the edge of the water is a low gently rounding outcrop of red biotite-granite. Its surface is usually rather rough, but some parts are smo(jth, and show on northerly slopes dis- tinct glacial stria' and groovings trending S. 28^ W. On smoothed points the surface is very much broken y)y minute cross fractures, which doubtless assist greatly in the rapid disintegration of the rock under the influence of the weather. A narrow lake extends for a mile and a quarter, and beyond it is a bad portage, 1000 yards long, over rough angular boulders among small black spruce. The two small lakes next on the route are separated by a rough stony ridge, over which is a portage 300 yards long, with a descent to the north of twenty-five feet. In the middle of the second lake is a little meadow, across which the loaded cam-os were dragged by hand, while beyond it is a portage 1400 yards long. 'J'his portage is over rough hills of boulders, strewn and bristling with small dead spruce, the drop from its southern to its northern end being about forty feet. The boulders are chieHy of coarse red granite, but many, about a twentieth of all, are of Huronian (?) conglomerate or greenish-gray sandstone. Beyond this portage are three very small lakes separated by two portages respectively 160 and 180 yards in length, the first over a low sand-ridge and through a swamp, and the second over rounded boulders. Below these lakes is a portage 800 yai'ds long, over rough hills and ridges of boulders, many of which are of greenish-gray (juartzitic sandstone and conglom- ^ y. '\ v., ■ it » vdf ' ,/v:^'/ I^KjH JP;' ■ - 'is^^^l ;?'>■'.'. u^v- "' . 1 m ' . , \ i''*'.-. .';\v^' '■' ■ .•■■ ■ ' ■ ' I:1.'' ■■'.■■■' ^: J.vV.' 1 ■■'"■,. •■■ ■ .'■ -■■ • * '■ * '..'■■■■;',' ■ . ,■ ■ l'^' . '' ^ - - ■ It' ■ .L .' - \ , r . ;,: ,;,. : ■ I e '.('' ' • •" '1, ■ ' '' ■ ' ,.->■ ■ >• i 1 ■ ' *, ' V ' s . ■>: ' . , ■■ ■■ V y. r. y. •r. 2 < — •:^ i ^'^ f - >5 ,1m ■*-' U O **• •r ^ ■r. ai ^- ^ ^• t: ^^ Ui n: < 2i ih r" r- *< s 71 Tv)i*n.i.l KAHnA LAKE. 119 F finite, in r. matrix of siind untl gravel. The lake at its western end has ;i consideraljhi extent from nortli to south, hut un ilie eourse followed, fi-oni I'ast to west, it had a width of a mile, to where a brook (lows westward from it down a swift rajjid in a very .stony channel. A portage 80 yaids lont.' was made over the stony Hat on the north side of this brook. Helow the portage ia a small lak". a third of a mile long, from which llows a stream forty feet wide. We descended this stream for 200 yards, to the lieail of a portage on the north bank, below which the brook llows for a few yards to the brink of a long steep slo}>e, down which it rushes over a bed of cobbles and boulders to the east shore of Kasha Lake, descending 110 feet in this the last mile of its course. Beside it are scarped banks of sand and coarse gravel. About half of the pebbles and boulders are of granite, while the other half are of coarse green conglomerate, saml- stone, .schist, etc. The portage, which is 1 700 yards long, begins on the north bank of the river on a sandy terrace 120 feet above Kasha Lake, and follows the bank of the river for a short distarice to a bend, where a fine view is liad of the lake lieneath. It then turns north-westward along an old gravel beach 140 feet above the lake, which it follows for several hundred yards, when it again turns and descends a long thinly wooded slope to a sandy bay on the lake shore. The lake was reached, in north latitude CO 10', on the evening of the 5th of August. I'lirtilt,'!' til Kxti'iit and |Ki:iiti(Hi. Kasba Lake. Kasba (White Partridge or Ptarmigan) Lake, the large reservoir near the source of Kazan River, lies at an approximate elevation <>f 1270 feet above sea-level, as determined by aneroid readings taken on the lake, compared with readings of a standard barometer at Churchill, and estimates of the rise and fall of the laud on the route from Reindeer Lake. It has a length, in a north-northwesterly direction of about fifty miles, and a greatest width of about ten or fifteen miles. It is narrow in the middle, and along its sides are arranged a few stony islands, but otherwise the lake is an open stretch of water. The temperature of the water in the open lake on the Sth Auf^ust was 46' F. It is said to receive several small tributary TrihutarieH streams ; among these are the Hasbala River on the south, up which is a canoe-route through Hasbala Lake, and then by a long chain of small lakes and portages to Sunshadow Lake, and thence to Cochrane River, a few miles below Wollaston Lake ; Klokul River from the west, 'flowing from Klokul (or F'sh-passing) Lake, and Tiielwel or Snow-bird Lake, by which there .i a canoe-route across to Daly Lake. > 120 F DuollAlNT KA/.W AMI rKUfilSDV lilVKHS. liil!. .1 1*1'. "ii. I U ■ ••• i;: .•"III 1 k ■ 'f > I i',^ ,. al ••• » fi n,;T III If i»«* "'■ ,1 •Kp-i'' !f ,1.1 " I \i 1 ( !«■ ■ 1 ,,11.^ Soiith-i'ivHb of tlio |.itiiit wliiTt' \v»* niaolicil tlm shore of tlif lako, a ri)iisi)iciioiis roiiiiilfd liill rises to a lieinht of WjO fft.a ahovo llic levt'l OUl l)t»clitx. (,f llic wiitt'i'. J )ii its sidt's are two very ilistimt aariont gravel l)eaeh('s, one ')0 and the other ll'O fo<'t aliove the lake, while theie is a tliird, hut less distinct samiy heacii, at a hei<,'ht of -'00 almvo tlm lake. Up to this latter height the hill is lar;.;ely (•overed with hniihlfMsand stiati- tied sand, hut here, on the north side, is an outcroji of granite. The surface inclines u't'i'tly towards the nortli-northweat, and is scored hy glacial markings trending S. .'W W. Tno hill, which raises its hald summit high ahov(* the surrounding country, is compost d of a red moderately even-grained granite, consisting of ortluKlase and (juartz with a little hiotite, cut hy horizontal and vertical juintage [ilanes. The surface, on the summit and northern slope, is well snK«)thed and often polished, hut with tiie exception of those mentioned al)ove, no stria- could he found. The south sides of the little moky hosses are rough, and the south side of the hill is rugged and often precipitous. The sunnnit and sides are strewn with i)ouklers, chietly of green conglouierate, (luait/ite, and other lIuroi\ian rocks. Cranberries, blueherries, crowherries and willow berries (^Vaccininni vitis Idd'd, and nliijiiHisinn, Hinpetrnm iiiyruiii and xirctonlaplnjloH nrcfica) were found in abundance. A magnilicent view is had from the summit of this hill. To the south-east are many shining lakelets, and gentle green slopes thinly wooded with dark spruce. To tlie north and north-east long lanes of water lun between the wooded ridges, while a high sandy terrace marks an old shore-line of the lake. To the west Kasha Lake extends as a lieautiful sheet of open water to the blue hills on its further shore. Ikrrif*. Survey (if No ii'ck in The line of survey followed the eastern side of this lake, from the foot of the long ))ortago to the point where thu lake pours its waters down the Kazan liiver, a distance of thirty-four miles, measured fnjui point to point, i'^'or twenty-nine miles, t!ie course was north-north- westward along an irregular shore. In the bottom of its secluded bays are gently sloping sandy beaches, while its salient points and adjoining islands, are piled round with irregular walls of boulders, often from ten to fifteen feet high. Many of these boulders appear to be of Huronian schists, (juartzites, etc. No rock was seen in place, but the b(.ulders ai-e mostly rough and angular, and in some of the islands, at least, appear to be very close to tlu; parent rock. They are evidently thrown ;ind l^eatei. into their present positions by the broken ice in the early summer. Behind the beach the country is thinly wooded in its sinithern part, while farther north it rises gently in green gras.sy slopes to hills, some of which are several hundred feet in KAZAN ItlVKl!, lL»l K fryitiilliiu" lilllr.stoill'. lu'iKlit. At tlio oiul of tUo ;il).,vc (listaiK'c, and whciv thu slimv chivn<,'<'s its dircctiuii towanls fli,. ii.irtli-tiortli-east, an rnhn- crosses tlif rouutry, foiinin- ;i diiiu of sandy islands across llic lake and risin;; in hills on its wistoin sid«'. Tlicsn hills form u lonu rid".-, or Cham ot narrow parallel ridyt-s, sonic uf which arc IHO feet hiKli, rufniing N. JO K. They are crimposed of sand and j^ravel, with narrow knifc-ed-v crests, and sides as steep us the sand will stand Their summits arc alni' st liare, while on their sides ami in the pit- like depressions between them, are some spruce and larcii trees of moderate si/e. In the hay at the head of the river, is a small island of hare rock, with a very irro,u;ular hroken surface, composed of a white or light- gray rather coar-e crystalline limestone, asscjciated with large veins or masses of white (piai't/. 1'liis limestone is prohahly of }luronian age, heing almost undoubtedly associated with tlie quartzitc and green schists mentioned al)ove. Kazan liiviit. Kazan Hiver Hows from Kasba Lake with a slight current, over a Clmrattcr. bed of boulders, and tlien, for three-(juarters of a mile, rests in a (|uiet hikelet. lielow this it forms uj) in a well-detined channel, which varies in width from 100 to ;?00 yards, and rushes down a series of swift crooked rapids. These c(jntinue for a mile and three-iiuarters, to the head of a cascade with a descent of fifteen feet. Tlie cascade occurs over a morainic ridge of boulders, and tlie channel is deej) and narrow at the top, but spreads out over the boulders at the bottom. Past this rapid the canoes and cargo wei'e carried for 300 yards, on the north-west bank, over the toj) of a rough stony liill. Below the rapid, the river continues swift, in a shallow but well defined winding channel, with wooded banks of sand or boulders. No rock in place was seen. The sun-oundiiig country is moderately level, and declines in a long even slope north-eastward from the vicinity of Kasba Lake, which seems to l)e held up by an accumulation of morainic material. 'I'owards tlie bottom of the slope, the river jtasses Monviiie. through a small lake about three miles long and a mile wide, into the south eiul of which Chawatili River is said to How. The lake is surrounded by low hills and banks of sand. Two miles farther down the river, and about ten feet lower in altitude, is a rather lai'ger body of water, called in the Chippewyan language Tabane Lake, with very irregular shores, low wooded points and islands, and a high wooded ridge, perhaps of a morainic character, along its eastern shore. The northern outlet of this lake was found to be in latitude CO" 39' 07". Taltaiiu Lakf. > 12-3 F DOOUAUNT KAZAN AND FEUGUSON RIVLHS. l'o-*itioii anJ extent. >,t Ijlll "•• ,.. «; High esker. i .''"ill «i ..fc., 1,. 't..." I . 11--. M, "r. -J III- ;i ;:!'■;;: „'i.^ Fdrest flisai)pi'ar8 For three miles farther the river cotitiiuies as a very rapid stream between .steep stony banks, until the bottom of the siope is reached at the south end of the long narrow arm of Ennadai Lake. The descent from Xasba Lake, a distance of sixteen miles in a straight line, is about 170 feet. Ennadai La/a'. Ennadai Lake 's a long narrow sheet of clear writer, lying in a north- easterly and south- westerly direction, and at an elevation of about 1 100 feec al)ove sealevel. Its greatest length in a straight line from end to end is fifty ni'"'es, and its greatest breadth se'-en or eight miles. At its southern arm, near whi-re the river entens it, a low ridge of boulders runs along its eastern shore, while an oxen sandy esker, a hundred feet in heigiit, forms its western shore. This esker runs out into "he lake in a long bare sandy point, about four miles from the moutii of the river, beyond which are some sandy is'mds in the .same line. A mile south of tlic; point is a sandy bay w'.ore the Chippewyans come in the autumn to spear the caribou as they cross this narrow part of the lake. To the wt st of the bay, the esker, which is here lumpy and lather irregular, rises to a height of from 200 to 300 feet. It is composetl of" white silt, sind and I'ounded pebl/les, many of the latter being of green Huronian schist or red quartz-porphyry and red Athiobasca sandst<.)no. The lower and more sandy hills are thinly wooded with larger white spruc>, and some small canoe-birch. The view t'rom the top of '-hese hills shows the open lake, almost without islands, stretching away to the north-east, wliiie all around are gently sloping, thinly wooded hills. From the sandy point the lake runs E. N. E with moderately even shores, behind which are low gently sloping green hills of sand or till. At the south end the hills .ire usually wooded, but within a few miles the forest disajipears, or becomes confined to the ravines, and the hill- sides are grassy or bare. The islands near the south-east shore of the lake, up to the first narrows, are low bare pdes of boulders or drumlinoid ridges of till surrounded by walls of boulders. Many of the boulders are (juito angular, and have evidently Ijeen derived from the immediate vicinity. The first island, two m.iles and a half from the point, is composed of large masses of dark green Huronian schist, almost in place; while the boulders around others are of granite, green schist, coarse gray diorite, and white crystalline dolomitic limestone. North of the first nar.jws are .several small islands, along the shore Cliffs cf pe.it, of the largest of which, cliifs of peat rise from the water's edge. North of this large island the lake opens out to its greatest width, and some J TVT.IieH_ 1 KAZAN RIVKR. 123 P ine, IS high hills rise both on its eastern ;uul on its nurthoi-n shores. .V prominent point on its north western side is composed of till and angular masses of light-green diabase. At the north side of this expansion jf the lake, on a little peninsula <'lil"vitic on the west sliore, is an exposure of a green chloritic schist, striking N. 35' E., and dipping X. oa' W., at an angle of 80% cut by some irregular veins of opacjue white .[uartz. ft was also seen from the canoe to be cut by a wide dyke of green trap, having a nortli-westerly trend. The surface is well rounded and smoothed, but no stria^ or grooves could be detected, although tiie northern sides are the smooth and gently sloping ones, while tlie southern s^des a-e steeper and more irregular. With the exception of the small islar.cl ul crystalline lime- stone near the outlet of Kasbi Lake, this is tne only exposure of the underlying rock seen along the canoe-route after leaving the hill near the sov.th end of that lake. The depressions, now fdled l)y at least l)ortions of both these lakes, appear to l)e along bands of Huronian schists, which liave been more easily eroded than the surrounding granites, or than the Hnroniati conglomerates and quartzites, b^julders of which are so numerous near the north end of Kasba liake, and which may compose some of the hills on the east side of that lake. A .-short distance north of this outcrop of chloritic schist, the lake becomes \ery narrow, contr;)cting to about three-Cjuarters of a mile, wh-'") high barren hills of till and boul lers rise on each side. Farther north, on the east side, the shore is composed of a ridge of t;reen Huron- ian schist striking N.N.E., and dipping W.N.W., at an -angle of ()IJ > Hill of sdiist. a mile north of which is a prominent hill, 200 feet high, of bright red grarite, similar to that on Kasba Lake. Two miles fartiier north, the party was detained in camp from the 11th till the 1-tth of August by a heavy storm with rain and snow. The ciirap was pitched on ;i sloping hills'de, where a little rill, trickling through the stones, nourishes on the wet ground a small gi-ove of dwarf black spiuce and larch. The surrounding country is (piite barren. The beach is a wall of heavy boulders, while behind the camp a hill rises 280 feet above the lake. This hill is composed of red granite, which in places shows traces of gneissic structure, striking northward and dipping westward at a high angle. Its summit is well smoothed and polished, and in places shows distinct glacial groovings trending S. 40 "W. Here the first ptarmigan and the first arctic hares of the season were seen. An observation made the magnetic variation 26 east. Three miles to the north-west, on the opposite side of the lake, a low ridge of gray gneiss crops out through the surrounding prairie, striking N. 20' E., and dipping N. 70 W.. at an angle of ">."), associated ;unl tcranite. 3» 124 p DOOBAVNT KAZAN AXD KEHGUSOX RIVERS. .iili.- Barren- ground caribun. Wi 'Jlt ril> (*■ •1* .,»• i;,.J l,il> 11 J« ■„ if: ,it> i ...•' .(L. .»• ji:;. .•4I>K 11" > Ul» ,*.■■» ..J" Rapid stream X.: i:: :;:... !•■' XI ' ..iu,„ i.. 'i>.*ii y- tl,*iu the north-west is a low wet country, moderately thickly wooded with ' small black spruce and larch. This is the last wooded area of any \v considerable extent seen while travelling down the Kazan River, though, as will be recorded later on, small patches of wood occur in favourable spots, under the shelter of the hills, all the way to Yath-kyed Lake. The small shallow lake entered below the woods, stretches .south- eastward to the foot of a hill of gray gneiss, the north-western side of which is of smoothly rounded rock. Below this lake the party followed the rapid river, as it wound through an 0})en imwooded country of low l)Ouldery hills, among and through which the channel often scatters and becomes very ill-detined. Caribou were constantly seen roamin.;.; over the country in larger or smaller bands, and they often swam across the stream in front of the canoes. At a bend in the river, north of a third small lake, is a conspicuous ,. hi'^h sandy ridge, evidently of the character of a kame or esker, bn; the need of hurrying on prevented! the closer examination of this as well as of many other natural features. From the bend two miles below Ennadai Lake, the river tlows eastward, with an almost continuous rapid current in a shallow channel over a bed of pebbles and boulders, descending about 200 feet in a distance of seventeen miles measured in a straight line. The rocky ,ast iiodcc] area. 12G F DOOBAUXT KAZAN AND FERGUSON RIVERS. . i.M- i: ,■■■"■{'' ,► *'^ :{:: . tlTlli .■•'•' i)s. Hikiiat\uil<. low the portage is a small lake which the party crossed in the driz-zling rain, and then they descended the rapid stream, which had low stony banks, to the tent of a little old bald Eskimo named Hikuatuak, at the south end of another lake. This lake is a Ion" irrei'ular sheet of c-lear water, with low grassy shores which run into gently sloping hilL^, or extend in Nvide sandy and gras.sy plains. The hills are strewn with boulders, but the general appearance of the whole country is that of a level prairie, w ith a few elongated hills rising above its otherwise even surface. Two or three outcrops of gray gneiss were observed along its western shore, one of these being at a narrows close to the camp of Ivei-ii-t«to. AtttJterly's camp was passed without being visited, as it was situated at some distance off the direct route, in a bay on the left, into the bottom of which a small stream was said to flow. A few trees were seen on the hill-ide beyond this bay, and we stopped to eat beside some small black spruce scrub at the north end of the lake, where a little wood could h' obtained to make a tire. From the north end of this lake, the river Hows N. E. by E. for five miles in a very direct course, with a swift current, between low banks of boulders, to the south end of a lake where three Eskimo families occupied two large deer-skin tents. Hallo was the name of the chief man in this camp, and the other two men were Ahyout and Kak-kuk, father and son. Tiio latter were induced to accompany the party as guides, and their services proved invaluable, not only in leading the rvaflEu. 1 KAZAN RIVER. 12 7 F way through the intricate lakes and down the many difficult rapids, but also in obtaining a plentiful supply of caribou meat. From Halb's camp a long narrow sheet of water extends northward for thirteen miles and a half, broken in the middle by a light rapid, half a mile al;ove which Annuki had a camp of two tents on the east shore. The lake has low shores, its southei-n expansion being gener- ally sandy on the, east, and covered with boulders on the west side. At Annuki's camp there is a stony hill on the east side, with a clump of small black spruce scrub behind it, while across the strait is a low sandy hill, breaking down in steep cut-banks on the shore. West of the northern expansion of the lake rises a high sandy ridge trending southward. Beyond the lake the river continues northward for a couple of miles, and then, doubling round the end of the sandy ridge, it tlows with a constant nipid current over a bed of pebbles and bould- ers until it strikes against the foot of another long straight sand and lli-h snivel gravel ridge trending N. 15 W., not improbably in the direction of "''*''''• the earlier o* the two glaciations previously mentioned, although no glacial stria' had now Ijeen observed for a long distance. On the low banks of the rapid river are a few scattered groves of small larch and black .spruce bu.'^hes. On the outer side of this abrupt I jnd, at the foot of the gra\el i-idge, the gra\el and boulders are piled in a high even wall by the river ice, while on the inner side is a gently sloping boulder-pavement. Some of these boulders are of red Athabasca BmiM.T.s of sandstone, conglomerate, quartz-porphyry, etc., the s.ime as the rocks .4n''lstuue' found north of Dooi)aunt Lake. etc The swift stream flows along the foot of the ridge for a short dis. tanof, and then swings towards the north-east, past a hill of coarse dark -gray biotite-giieiss, striking N. 35" E., and with vertical dip, to the southern end of a narrow lake near which tJliu had pitched his camp. Here, as at the other camps, many deer had been slaughtered. Caches cf deer and their skinned carcasses had been covered with heaps of stones, on ^'"' ""'t''' ">**'• the tops of which were fixed several pairs of long branching antlers, to assist in finding the heaps when the ground is covered with snow in the winter. The surrounding country is low and wet, with losv par allel drumlins of boulders rising here and there, all lying with their long axes S. 25 W. The next lake is very similar to the last, i)eing a long narrow sheet of clear water, lying in a low grassy country underlain by glacial deposits. At its north end, Nuyellik is the cluef man in a camp of three tents. The river Hows out of the north-eastern end of the lake, and is a swift winding stream between low banks, all along the edges of which bosses of gray gneiss crop out. At one place the rocky 128 F DOOnAUNT KAZAN AND FERGUSON RIVEHS. 1*1 .Jl:, I>l> ^* .«>• f :.»• 4! ,.<( I'M* •1 itr:' ,»• 1 ..'' ( iw- • i»* i I'"' ,.::i !»• ' •»•• !**••• ..,1 (5. ; ''"Jll .«» t:. ;;::, «t • ..»«. ,./i"' «i " ''ii»ii 1 '■l-<M I H.«... •I . I; •- • •"• 6 ""..;*■ ,.'ii.- .... Grav (li(irit«>. Many Kskiimis. Hill.x of giifiss. points, aiiproaching one another irom cicli sic'^, form a very swift deep rapid. Five miles below the lake, as tlie crow tlies, and opposite the camp of Eiyt'giak, is a rounded l)oss of course gray diorite. Tiie surface is rlearly .striated near the water's ('(Ige, the striit' running S. 80' K. A mile (ird a half below Eiyt'giak's camp i-^ a small lake with low slioi'CR underlain by gneiss. In a bay on its northern shore were several Eskimo tents. The river, which had been flowing in r. general direction almost due north for about sixty miles, now tuivs eastward and runs out of the east side of this lake. For seven miles it occupies the bottom of a channel 200 to 120 yards wide, and from twenty tti forty feet deep. The current is at first light, but increases to four miles an hour. The banks descend with very steep slopes to the edge of the water, and are composed of rock and till. At the foot of this channel, where it opens out into a lake, a high, and probably rocky ridge rises from the eastern l)ank, the surface of which is covered with grass, and im its sides were pei'ched hundreds of gulls. Opposite the ridge is a low rocky point of verj' coarse pegmatitic hornblende- granite. Its surface near the water's edge is strongly glaciated. The first glaciation, seen on the surfaces sheltered by higher points, is S. ?."> AV. The last glaciation, trending N. 5' E., seems to have been light, for it is to be seen on southern slopes only. It not improbably indicates a local glacier flowing down this river-valley. Angiknni Lake. Below this rocky ridge, where an Eskimo grave was conspicuously marked by some tall upright pieces of wood, the river enters the upper extension of a lai-ge lake, called l)y the Eskimos, Angikuni ICamanyie, or Great Lake, doubtless the Titmeg Lake of Samuel Hearne. Many Eskimos were camped in the vicinity, and at one time our two Peterboro' canoes were surroimded by twenty-thi'ee Eskimo kyacks. For three miles and a half our course was along the western shore of the lake, which was generally low and strewn with bou'dei's. Beyond the eastern shore some high ridges were seen in the distance. Our canoes then passed through r shallow strait, the principal channel being doubtless further enst, crossed open water, past a small island of green and red hornblendic gneiss, to a rocky strait, on the south side of which was Enetah's camp, situated on the slope of some hills of well foliated red gneiss striking X. 25' E., and dipping N. 6.')° W., at an angle of 40°. The surface here is generally polished and shows well maiked glacial grooves trending out into the lake, S. 57 E., the direction of motion of ■•] KAZAN HIVER. 1-29 F tlie glacier being clearly imlicated by the roumled and polished north- western surfaces, and the curv(^d transverse fractures in the grooves, all opening towards the south-east. The party was here delayed hall a day by adverse wind, during which An KskLwol time it was visited by an Eskimo trader, named Anftlcah, who makes ^'■^'''-'■• an annual trip to the ti'ading store at the north end of lleindeer Lake, taking out the few furs collected l)y his ii' ighhours, and bi'iiigin-' back tobacco, ammunition, neerlles, v*cc. H(! nas greatly surprised to find that thete white men wer*; not traders, an>l would not even accept from him the skins of foxes or wolves, but to him, as to all the other natives who were met, small presents were given in token of friendship. He agi'eed to carry a letter to the trading store, and tlie letter reached Ottawa rill Cumberland and Winnipeg, in safetv, on INIarch otb, 1895. Seven miles east of Enetah's camp, along a low shore strewn with D.iaycdby a boulders or angular fragments of gneiss, the {)arty was detained for the "t^n'iu. greatei- part of three d;iys on a large island oil" the south side of the lake, under the shelter of a hill of medium-grained reddish-gray biotite- gntiss. Observations showed this camp to be in latitude G2' 14' 0', and the variation of the needle to be 2V 30' east. The time was chiefly spent in obtaining a vocabulary of the language Kskinio of this inland tribe of Eskimos from our two Eskimo grides, who were both men of a high gi'ade of intelligence. The lake stretches away beyond the limit of vision towards the south-east. After leaving the island our canoe-route continued a little south of enst, keeping among islands outside of the long [loints which project from the northern shore. Most of the islands show rocky exposures at the water's edge, above which is a covering of glacial detritus. The points first passed were of gray gneiss, while a small island seemed to be of highly ferruginous schist much reddened by oxidation, but as the island appeared to be sacred to the Eskimos, it Sacred island, was impossible to land on it and retain theii* friendship. A small island, ofi" a point six miles from the storm camp, was found to be composed of dark medium-grained diabase, containing nmch pyrite, cut by many veins of white quartz. In the vicinity is a tine-grained Diibase. dark mica-schist, through which the diabase is probably intruded. Three miles further on is a small island of dark-green almost mas- sive chloritic schist, sloping gently on its western side and dropping more abruptly towards the east. Tha glacial markings are here very beautifully shown. The rock is strongly scored, but it does not appear 9 130 F DOOIIAUNT KAZAN AND KEIIOL'SOX lUVEHS. if ,..[■""■ if'* , •' it,f"'^ i;. «) ' ..»«■' ,-0ii c« ' ..i, t. 'l-.*" V- !;^» 41 . I. '..J Four sets of Stl'ilU. Threpsetsof to lifive Ijoen much riiLbed down, for tlirco distinct strintioii-, cuii \n'. gliicial stn.B. clearly seen in this one little rocky island. The kst, on the o.-istern surfaces, und over all tin; others, but not running down north-western slopes, trends N. .30 W. The next earlier on", also shown hy polished surfaces deeply j^rooved and snratehed, trends S. oO W. A still t-arlier one, seen on south-wt-stern slopes protected from the other two, trends .S. o' E. Tlie same three sets of striie are jilso beautifully exhibited on a rocky point half a mile to the north-east, while half a mile still further eastward is another small bare island of ^'nniss and diabase, which not only shows the thri>e sets of striiv me:itioni'd above but a still earlier and vn-y stron.i; set trending 8. 85 E. The C'untry rock is here the coarse gi'ay gnei'-.s, ^i•hich strikes S. 75' E. and dips S. J 5 W, at an angle of 70 . Jt is cut from north to .-^outli by a mass or dyUtt of the dark-green (hahase. A little less than three inih.'s further ( ,ist, where camp was made for the night on the rocky ]ioii;t of ;i grassy island, a medium- grained gray biotite-grailtc crops out at tiie water's edge. On its western slopes are strongly marked glacial groo\es and stria' directed S. 80' E. Six miles and a half bryond this camp, the river flows out of a de"[) bay at the north-eastern extremity of the lake. On the south side, wheie the current is iirst felt, th"i'e is a bare rocky point compo-ed of fine-grained green chloritic schist, stiiking N. of) Jv, and with vertical II dyke-, dip. It is cut, almost along the strike, by a narrow dyke of dark-green diabase, and also by a dyke of red augite-porphyrite. Under the micro- scope this latter rock is seen to consist of a micro-crystalline ground- mass, abundantly stained with brown iron oxide, and showing beautiful flow structure, containing phenocrysts of plagioclase, augite, biotite, sphene and .patite. The plagioclase is in irregular individuals much smaller tlian the phenocrysts of augite and biotit'.; • the augite is greatly altered to calcite and chlorite ; the biotiiie, in distinct crystals imbedded in the augite, has undergone ormsiderc'ole leaching, ami on fu^count of the removal of a large part of the injn, shows brilliant chromatic polarization ; sphene in irregular brownish mass-.'s and strings in the biotite; the apatite is in lar!';e beautifully suarp, doubly terminated crystals. The^relative ages of the two dykes could not deflniteb ttr determined. Thi-ough the schist are also some ir.egular vein:; of white quart -.. The full size of Angikuni Lal:e is as yet unknown, but It evidently exte ids a long distance towai-ds the south-east, and is broken by many Tra IVNOLLL. 1 KAZAN I'lVKK. 131 V pnijectiuL! points, and Jony islaiulH. TIio l)efich is L.'fnenilly of sub- iinguliir houidtM's, while tlin sun'()uriditi,i,' coiinii'v is a rolling grassy prairie underlain l.y stony till. A tew small willows, and a very few stunted black sjinioe a toot or two in lunght, at the storni eanip. com- prise all the wood that was si'en growing on its shoi'es, and with the exception of one or two small groves, the country below it is ti'eele.vs. Its elevation is about 800 feet above the sea. Ili'iuuiful laii(!sL'a|ip, Hirer bi'loir Anr/in'iini Ln/.e. Where the river leaves tln" lake, it first spreads out (jver a wide bed of boulders, becoming very shallow, and then contracts to .seventy yards in width, and rushes as a deep rapid and almost straight, stream, between banks w]iie}i rise in gentle slopes from the edge of the water. These slopes were covered with grass and low willows. .Many caribou were lazily lying down or feeding among the bushes, and turning their heads, they looked in (piiet wonder at the strange apparition of the two canoes that had ])eneti-ated to llie centre of their northern liome. The whole landscape, seen in the early morning light, presented such a picture of wild, but (piiet beauty, as I liave seldom had the good fortune to enjoy. From the outlet of Angikuni Lake, the river tiows eastward for forty- four miles, measured in a straight line, with a constantly varying current, at times rushing headlong down a narrow channel, and at times spreading out over a wide bed of boulders, packed by the ice into as even a pavement as the size and shape of the boulders admits of. In trt^o places the river expands into small lakes. For nine miles, to the first lake, low exposures of green cliloritic schists outcrop here and there along the l)ank. On this reach of rapid river, Elrayuk and family have a cam]) of two tents containing twelve or fourteen persons. The lakelet is three mile^ and a half long, and below it the river continues its headlong course between banks and I'idges of boulders, passing to the north of an Eskimo camp of three tents containing UugaUuk about twenty persons, wheic Ungalluk is the chief man. From these Eskimos we obtained in excliinffe for needles, thimbles, etc., a supply of deer-skin clothing to protect thf> le.en of the party against the severities of the rapidly approaching winter, and also a considerable quantity of deer tallow and dried deer meat. Subsequent to our visit on the 25th Augus*^^, a party of Chippewyan Indians who trade at Churchill came as far no.-th as Ungailuk's camp Cliinritic Mcilist. 132 K DOOilAl'XT KA/AN AND KKU(;i SON 1UVER8. ' ■ ,*' , .»• il ...f «•■* ' l» ■1 !«:';■ ,1' t ..»' ( i«' ' Il* I" .:a j !*• |l»' » .«• l«-t.» .J. II. '"If i:. •-/' ,!.»< '«! ' . W»«' .'»•' .«r ■A,, 1- 1 Hmh 41 :i: ■t HjTil* 1} ;t»«.«'i» il ..,,.ll« 1 'U ,1, f '.• t < HI 1 ,n..»- 1 • *»a««MW ■..lih '■■' Gray tr'"'-'"- l'u> us on tlioir ui'cival at Cliuivhill ill Novfiiiher. This niini'.irs Lo bo as far north a.s the Chip- IK'wyans ranm' at t'lc [irescnt day. Below the canip of Un','alhik, th(i river tlows with aa easy •■iirrciii to a small lake, on tlic iiorth-oast suio of which is a strai^'ht rooky riily;t' apparently compound of light-gray gneiss. A sliorl distance helow the lake the river falls twenty feet over a ridge of re(Misli-<,'ray gneiss, iuu[ then tlows with a raiiid current to a second fall, heU»w wliich is a heavy cascade throuuli a narrow roeky gap, whore the river enters a gorge sixty feet deep, that being the total descent from tli'> K <"»0 , cut l>y a nuniher of dykes of ;,'n;ea iliahasu runnini,' S. 70 E. The lower eml of this por- tage was found to be in north huitude G2' 1"/ llo'. Below this rocky porta^'e the liver flows rapidly enstwartl for ti\e miles, breaking into two clmnnels around a high oblong grassy hill, and uniting again just above four Ivskinio tents which wen* pitched among the boulders on its ri,'ht l)ank. Aunah, a venei'al)leoId Ivskimo, Arimli with long white locks, and his old blind, white-haired wit'e, Otuolik, were the heads of this family group, which seemed to consist of about twenty-seven persons all told To AUnah's camp, the river had kept a general course almost due eastward for eighty-four miles, measured in a straight line, from the outlet of the small lake al)ove Angikdni Lake, but it now turned al)ruptly and tlowed almost du(! northward for thirty miles, measured in a straight line, till it emptied into the western angle of Yath-kyed or Hicoliguah Lake. iJelow the bend, the river continues for ten miles to flow over a bed and between banks of boulders, with a general strong current. On each side are gently sloping hillsides, in one place dotted with sm;ill black spruce l)ushes, the largest seen since leaving Angikimi Lake. Here is also a low exposure of well foliated red and green gneiss, sti'ik- ing X. 5" E. The surface is plainly scored by glacial markings running S. -2^) E. At the end of this ten-riulo reach, the rivei- opens into a small lake two miles long, with sandy shoi'es I'isiug in low Init regular tei'i'aces- Marine These terraces, the highest of which is about 500 above seadevel, would appear to correspond to the highest sandy shore-lines on the Doobaunt Kiver below Doobaunt Lake, giving a measure of the depression of the Land in post-glacial times, nr m;iikiiig the distance inland reach(,'d by the sea in those times. On the west shore of this lakelet, in a sandy valley, is a grove of I.;i-.; ^love of larch and scrubby black spiaice— the (mly grove of the first named tree seen on the river between Angikuni aud Hicoliguah lakes. Th'» surrounding country is a series nf low rocky ridges, with grassy sides, separated by moderately level plains underlain In' reddish till with pel)bles and a few boulders. ttr'.'lilCeS. tiiniii'i'. 134 F ItOOHAUNT KAZAN AND KKIKJIMON lUVKliS. Siui-ly lialik M. 31."" , ( Wi . II lit 1"' IK' ' ...1 ,»i.l 11 l>"ll 1: ■iC i«l . nmf ,.«' • 1 ''%„ 1. It Hi« r )lling prairie. Many caribou were feeding among the brush on the rich brown liillsides. Ten miles below the islanus is a place called by tho Eskimos Pal- elluah, where the river is deep and narrow, and the caribou, in their migrations, regul.irly swim across the str(>ain. It is ])robab!i^ that tin's is where Hamue! Ilearne crossed tho Kazan lliver above Yath-kyed Lake in 1770 at a point callefl by him Cathawhachaga, and which he describes as a celebrated deer crossing place. He, however, places it in latitude (i.'V ■[', or 28' north of Palelluah and lio' north of where the river discharges into Yath-kyed Lake, altliough he states that he made several obsei-vations for the latitude. JJelow Palelluah the river is deep, with a slackening current, and the banks, instead of being sandy slopes, are rugged walls of angular boulders. The general surface is composed of rocky ridges, while some high hills, not improbably also of rock, rise on the east side of the river. The rock on the west bank is a light-gray gneis.s, rather indis- tinctly foliated, striking N. 3") E. and dipping 8. ").[) E. < Go . On the very sunmiits of most of the smooth glaciated undecayed knobs of rock, angular blocks often rise several feet, having been thrust up aloni; jointage planes Ijy the freezing of water under them and afterwards supported by smaller fragments of lock falling under and around them. The surface of the knolls is striated N. 35' W;, or in an almost directly opposite direction to that last seen on the river, and no signs of any other glaciation could be distinguished. The willows and dwarf birch had now become very stunted, and Ca-iKioj.e t'dragona was seen for tlu; first time on this river. rvNUkt. KAZAN IIIVKIi. l.^.' V IHrolli/iiah or Viit/i ki/iil Ln/,i>. Kiv//in Itivtn- {.'ifiduiilly widi-ns to a boll-shaped luoutli, witliout any trace of a delta deposit, where it (Iow.« into this lake. The lake itself (lianicifr and iH an extensive Ixidy of clear water, whieh hud a teniperatine ,,f ''^'''"** 46' Fahr. on the .'il.sf of Aut,'iist. It extenda as ^in almost open sheet of water, away to tin- south-east I'urthei' than couKl In- seen from any of tho points cr i.slaiuls on which we landed. A lar;,'o hi^'h rounded island lies aero.SH the centre. The immediate shores are f,'enerally low, rising in green sandy slo[)es without Ixiulders. Across the bottoms of the bays indenting tho north-west shore, is a high eons[)icuous ridge of liiils, while similar hills were seen in the distance along the north and south siiores. The beach consists for the most part of a wall of irregular l)ouIders. The nortii-east shore, as followed between points and ishmds, is twenty-nine ndles in length from tho mouth of the intlowing river to the head of tlu^ outflowing one. Tho principal underlying rock seemed to be a gray Laureutian gneiss. A small island in latitude i'>'2' I'.V ."10", six miles oil" the mouth of the Mumi orth end of the lake, and then cai-ry their canoes for 400 yards across a narrow neck uf land and launch them again in the river. The portage is across a low wet grassy t'at underhiin by till, with very shallow water at both ends. The water reav-hed in the river is very slightly below that in the lake, so that there are evidently no rapids in the river above this point. .•!■, ■• .», [. •., is;,..L ii; ^ ,►."'-■ I 15. .■.■"'? «'■ -ii.,, t, •-.IS* ■ tmmum 1.- « •:"■■' 1 .„... j;. Bod of boiiWers. Hirer beJoH' Yat/i-ki/ed Lakr. Below the portage, the canoes descended half a nule of swift current, and crossed a small lake with low green shores for four miles to a point of coarse gray gneiss, the surface of which is striated S. 55' J']. Doep rafiiil. The river flows oui of this little lake in a swift and narrow, but deep, rapid, over a rid.L'e of gneiss, and then expands for a short distance between pleasant sandv benches. For a mile the stream runs smoothly, and then )»r5'd current of live nules an hour down a shallow stony channel 150 to 200 3Mrds wide, with boulders piled in mo.ssive walls on each side, through which low outcrops of gneiss pi eject here and tliei'e. About two miles and a half below t'ue lake several families of Es- kimos were cair.ped on the east bank, and here it was lenrncd positively that this i-ivei' llows into Chesterfield Inlet, that there is a high fiiil not far above its mouth, and that there w(M'e three more camps of Hskimos on its banks. Tin; two I'lskiino guides now positively asserted that the only possible route to the sea was by con- tinuing down the river. Afterwards, however, they acknowledged ClUllli. •J Tin: T\vi:i,vi; i'oi!T.\(;ks. ;>7 F the Eskimos 11 end of tlio vrrow neck < if i across a low at both ends, t in the lake, lis point. swift current, ur miles to a bed S. r^rj' E. >\v, but deep, lort distance .ins smoothly, and irregular scended ^vitll o\ev a pave- courso nortli- i bed of th(! 1 clear water a small deer- A mile down the water on ; seen on the sed to a con- abasca scries, gth, and then liles an lioui' 'ith boulders V outci'ops of unilies of Es- wa.s leiirned ;, that there ^ were tliree » guides now I was by con- icknowledged that there was anotiiei-, but nuieh more diflicult route, over a cliain of Ali.Tiiiuiv.- portages, to the head-waters of a stream Uowing through Kaminuriak Lake. Si.x additional Eskimos were employed lu-re to assist in carry- ing the canoes ov( v these portages, the agreement with them being that they should supply their own previsions, that they would be furnished with sufhcient tobacco for a smoke at night, and when the poi-tages were pissed that they would each recinve a box of ii '"'.'.n dred gun caps and a twelfth of a pound of tobacco. On the hfth day, when the portages were passed, they were delighted to nreive in addition half a plug of tobacco, two sewing needles and a thimble full of beads. One of the men who knew the way, also consented to accompany the j)arty to the mouth of the river on the shore of Hudson J^iy. On the morning of September 1st, after the above arrangements had Kmzuh Kivci been completed, the party left the Eskimo camp and descended the rapid stony river to a little bay of o^tiiet water on the right, where the canoes were unloaded and carried up the low stony bank to a wet gi-assy meadow. We were now in latitude (').') S' — the most northerly point reached. The Kazan iUver had been followed for [OO miles in its lapid course towards (.'hestei'lield Inlet, and altiiough a portion of that stream Still remains untravelled, sketches of it were obtained from the E'jkimos, and from these its course has iieen indicat'^d on the accom- panying map. Sketches of the ;Kijoining lakes and streams were also obtained fi'om time to lime wluMu-ver theii- positions could best be pointed out or located, and these arc shown in broken lines on the map. Till'; TwKT.vK PoitTAf;i:s. Jt^rom ihe bank, wlun'e the canoes weie carried ashore, the bearing for 1'iiv.t two miles bade up the river was S. 03 \V.,wliile. (lown a straight reach '"" ''"' " of river for .several mil"s it v/as X. 10 II. The canoes were now carried for 2000 yards in a direction S. (17 11. over lev(>l wet gi'ound under- lain by a gravelly till, directly tow;u\ls the foot of a rather high grassy ridge, to a small shallow lake. Tlie day wa,s Ijright and clear, and a good meridian iibser\alinn of the .'-un gave the latitude of the point reached near the north end of this lake as G3 7' 51", while <''tiM.r\aii.)u the ma^Mietic var-ation at the south end of (he lake was found by solar compass to be "JO" 4o" E. These observations proved very opportune, since for the next twenty-three ilays the weather was con- tinually stormy or overcast. , I 138 F DOOBAUVT KAZAN AND I'KROUSON RIVERS. HI •J|r.l'«' if 1 . ••" 1 ^' ' ,..' ml' ' f'' , i«; , «l,. ,*' I y |l,.. .i» ,;;: ,;:a . "" >rslii'i The shallow lakelet, which is a little more than a mile in length in a directions. 30 E., is discharged northward into the Kazan River by a small brook. The bi-ook wliich Hows into it was ascended for 200 yards. Another portage (500 yards long, over flat land covered with willows, leads to a pond a (juarter of a mile across, above which anotlier similar pond, with gi'assy banks, is reached by a portage 190 yards in length. A fourth portage, l.SOO yaixls long, over very wet sedgy land, by the edge of the little stony brook, brought the canoes to a point on its biink .ibove which it was navigable for half a mile. The fifth portage, GOO yards long, was over a wet plain over- grown with small dwarf bn'ch ( Betnla ylaudulosa) to a shallow pond 200 yards across. The sixth portage, ovei- which everything Wias car- ried through a drizzling rain, is 2000 yards in h'ngth. It crosses the same wet dreary plain, keeping a little way to the north east of the brook, and at its south-eastern end reaches a narrow lake with low grassy shores. This lake, a mile and three-<|uarters in length, is very shallow, and its muddy banks are thickly strewn with boulders, among which the canoes must be hauled carefully Vty hand. The seventh portage is 150 yards long, Ijetween two lakes, over a low ridge covered with dwarf i)ircli, and above it the canoes wore pushed or paddled for hah" a mile across a very shallow muddy pond. The eighth portage is loOO yiirds long, at first south of a very shallow arm of the pond, then across the brook, hei'e ten yards wide, vvhere some low bosses of gneiss project above the surface, and then over wet flat land along the north- east side of the brook, to another very shallow pond 400 yards wide. Beyond this the ninth pmlage, .'500 yards long, leads across the same desolate plain to a shallow lake b g at the head of the brook flowing towards the north-west side of Kiizan River. The tenth portage is 4400 yards long, over level wet grassy land and past a rocky knoll of dark hornblende-gneiss striking S. 60" W. and dipping S. 30" E. <70'. The portage is across the local watcished, dividing the waters flowing towards Chesterfield Inlet, and those llowing directly towards Hudson Ray ; it crosses a very small brook tk)wing eastward, passes to tlie south of a pond and ends on the boulder-beach of a narrow lake. This lake is two nules long and very shallow, ,so that in some places it was necessary to waile beside the canoes. A liw o rill, overhung with wil- lows, tiows from its south-eastern end, running noisily between l)anks of sub-angular bouhk rs. The eleventli portage is 1400 yards long in an east-south-easterly dii-ection, to a shalluw muddy pond a third of a mile across, on the eastern side of which is a clump of willows four feet high. The twelfth portage is 800 yards long, and leads from this pond down a very gentle slope with a dri]) of twenty-five feet, through a TVRRM.k. FKRGUSOX lUVt:ii. 139 F grassy marsh with water up to tlie knees, to the low, nuiddj and stony sliore of Ferguson Lake. This chain of portages leads across a great, gently slopini,', !,'rassy phiin, between ratlier high grassy hills. Patches of dwarf birch are scattered here and there, and ckimps of willows giow l)eside the ])rooks and lakelets. Everywhere the land is wet and marshy, the frozen soil doubtless greatly hindering the formation nf drainage channels, while the two brooks are but slightly depressed below the general level. The subsoil is a pebl)ly till with boulders, but very few boulders can be s<;en except in the brooks. IvassT jihiir. Fi:itGusox River. Ferguson Lake, on which the canoes were launched on the morning of September 5th, is seventeen miles in length and tVom one to thi'ee miles in width. Its contour is very irreguhir, dropping bi'ck into deep bays and projecting in long points. Grassy scopes and terraces, the latter underlain by sand and gravel, rise from the beach to heights of from thirty to fifty feet above the water, above which rise bare craggy hills of gneiss and diorite. The beach is usually composed of a wall of boulders, but here and there are sandy bays, while some of the points and islands are of smooth glaciated rock. The survey of this lake, and of the rivers and lakes between it and Hudson Bay, was made dui'ing a long continued period '^f stormy weather, with high easterly winds which (M)nstantly dashed the w;,ves over the canoes and often blew a heavy rain or sleet in f.ur faces, making it impossible to see far ahead. The season was so late that it was necessary, for the safety of the party, to push onwards with all pos'^ible speed, and many phices of undoubted interest had to be left unexamined. A few phices, where tlie storm delayed us for several hours or perhaps days, were examined carefully. From the last of the twelve portages we followed the north shor" of the lake for two miles .ind a half, past low projecting Losses o: granite, to a point of massive, coaise, gray, highly hornblendic diorite. This has a rounded surface which almost everywhere shows strong glacial grooves running 8 50 E., but there also appeared to be some occasional traces of an earlier glaciation running N. 33" W. North- east of this point, a deep bay extends away to the north, but directly southward, across the lake and past some low rocky islands, is a low point of gray gneiss and dark-green diorite. The point is well scored by glacial markings trending S, -45 E., the direction of motion being clearly shown bv th(^ curveil transverse fractures opening south-east- K.Tt^'llr and cliarnct''V. X. >t:\ 140 F UOOIIAUNT KAZAN AND FElUiUSON RIVHRS. s.» JJi iti» .>• il - '1 1« ■.• '<; .ii:: iic: ,::a i«" Ul« ,*,.. •«•• II''")' c y ,!^i «t ' . (•*■ »•"' .*«( I 'l*».i •1 :i:ll et "•V>* It .»l**'* .1 ::!':;, ,. ■;••«• i: .,m>te of greeti diabase. Two miles and a lialf farther east along the sliore the jioiiits are composed of coarse white granite, with irregular inclusions of biotite-giieiss and dark -green trap, often highly ferrugin- ous. Two miles and a half further down the lake, the route lay through a rocky narrows, 100 yards wide, between steep rounded hills of gray gneiss, after which it followed the north-east shore for three miles, to a bare rocky island of gray gneiss and dark-green diorite. A little more than a mile and a half beyond this island, the outlet of the lake was reached, where a shallow river thirty yards wide flows down a swiit rapid over boulders, descending eight feet to another lake. A mile east of this rapid, a camp of four Eskimo tents was pitched south of the lake on a grassy terrace twenty feet above the water. These weri; the last Eskinms that we wei'e to meet, and we purchased from tlieiii some tallow and a good supply of half-dried caribou meat. The lake has grassy slmrcs, descending to a beach of boulders, and rising in regular terraces which mark the coast-lines of the post- glacial sea when Hudson Wav was verv much larger than it is at present, an 1 wiien it was in all probability connecDtKl with the Arctic Ocean along the line of the wide depression in the bottom of which now lies Chesterfield Inlet ai:auks of boulders and over a bed of boulders, but the water was at ti\e time so low that the stream did not as a rule occupy more than half the width of the channel. The men waded in the cold water beside the canoes through much ar along the 1 ii'iVL;iilar y ferrugiii- rtiuto lay Linded hills e for thiee en diorite. a outlet of wide flows to another ^as pitched the water, purchased 'iljou meat. ulders, and the p(jst- lan it is at tlie Arctic n of which . The lake larged by a and three- etween low iUi this la're our canoes, th shore of Met grassy lie sliore of jpanied us XI and six river was rd til rough 3r a bed of 1111 did not The men if this dis- ss a samly At length this nipid stream emptied lu.o the south side of a narrow Xutc.w lake eight or ten miles long, and tt) avoid the hiyli north-west win'! '' ''''' which was blowing at tlu; time, the canoes crossed this lake, with some dilliculty, to its north shore, r'achiug it al a prominent point of coarse gray gneiss. Two miles and a half farther east is a point of massive dark-greS. IG' K., and older than the other, and anothe" very light striation cro.ssiiig it in a direction N. 10 E., perhaps the earliest of all. North of the like the country rises in a high rocky ridge. The rive" Hows out of the east end of the lake 'uid soon l)ivaks into ;i loiv^ sliall'-H- nipi'l over a bed of large boulders, at the ii[) of wliicii is a ridge of banded gray and black micict'ous gneiss, striking X. .jO' E. and with almost verti- cal dip. Its surfaet' is distinctly scoi-ed i)y glaciid markings trending S. 40' E. P;;st the rapid the canoes were carric'd for SOO yards a'ong the right li'm/y r,'.;a(l (south) bink of the rivi;r, wliich is st',;e]i and ihirtytive feet high. A terrace ()f iioulders runs alon.'; the face of this bank, while the plain to the south is grassy, wet, and underlain by till. Here and there little tufts of dwarf birch furnished fuel for a lire at camp on the boulder terrace, The little river is alx)Ub a mile U)iig, and a . it Hows into the western arm of Ivamiiiuriak Lake it sjireads out o\er a wide expanse of boulders, pas'., which ^t was necessary to carry the canoes for L'-IO yards, on the south bank, over naked bouiders. The rocky country had now been left behind for a time, and in front of us was a broad undulating till-covered plain. Kaminuriak Lake is a beautiful sheet of clear cold water Iving in ivauiinraink the till-covered plain at an elevation of about 320 feet above seadevel. Its extent is as yet unkiu)wn, for aithougli tne .south-western shore is only twelve miles long, its waters were said by the Eskimos to extend a long distance nortliwartl. Its northern shore, as indicated on the mr-p, is from Eskimo inf(jrmation and sketches. Where seen, the beach is in some places sandy, but more generally .Sur.'mu.iing of large boulders, which, on the more exposed parts of the shore ' - " are arranged in a regular wall to the height of from eight to twelve feet, while in the bays they are scattered over a shalhjw floor of sand or till, iiack from the lake the country stretches in wide treeless plains, or rises in low grassy hills, which show no signs of any under- lying rock. 142 K DOOUAUNT KAZAN AND FERGUSON RIVEHS. r, .*"■'■•■ , .«::: £ i'* t ,.'' 1 1 'ii* 1 I'O ■ ii:;. .:a tri* . '■•' * I*.' ,.4. n. ni ,,*• it ■ M»t ■•1 . ll»l' »•"' .«l -fe., 1. I '\^.. t\ CI ,,;!);» M .►»*»'» '>l»||* 'I .J-i'* 1 ».l , ■ • . » , ■ - 1 1 'rtl 1 .•nit'M ! '-.iS* - 1 liivi r 111 tliu liup bIow whifli flat grassy is light, to 1 by a traj) ith a drop mnel again ng the foot , rises liigli lovc a little d unloaded f a ridge of b beside the black liaii'- ;e in 1891 ;, along the :h. extends rage width ters. This .nd gravel, Lirrounding thwai-d for len swiftly, it towards vest end of •n siioi'e of long which ith-western ky country of Hudson ii the lake. Tlio rapid stream Hows fi-om the eml of the lake north-eastward for two miles, till it passes the northern end of this hill in a rocky gorge, whon it turns south eastward and Hows for two nulos and a half among bold rocky hi lis, in whose protected recesses are green grassy terraces, to a heavy I'apid. Here the water rushes through a narrow obstructed channel between ste..,.. walls of green diorite slightly foliated 8. GO' E., and dipping X. ;iO K. < 70 '. The canoes were carried for !)00 yards past this ra[)id, over a rather high ridge of the smooth j green diorite, on the sunnnit of which irregular angular i)locks have been shoved up by the frost. On the smooth surface some liglit glacial Htri.u may here and there be seen running S. 25' E. The hills are cov- ered with black lichen, while sotne willows grow beside the little ponds in depressions in the rock. At its lower end, the portage d(,'scends to a sandy beach on the shore of a little bay of the river belusv the rapid, apparently ^uite encircled by the steep liare rocky wall<. Below the portage, the ri\er Hows eastward for two miles in a straiirht channel -.vith steep rocky banks, and then passes through a small hill- .; girt tarn, which we crossed in the deepening gloom of the late evening, in showers ci" snow and 'ain. Cami) was pitched on a sandy grass- covered terrace at the foot of ti rocky hillside, the rock in which is a finegi'ained dark-green diabase, with obscure slaty cleavage striking southward, and is cut by many small irregular veins of white (juartz. Below the outlet of the tarn, the stream was descended for three- quarters of a mile down a rocky rapid, after which the canoes were carried for 800 yards along the east bank, past a rapid, over boulders and jagged points of rock. The rock is a massive light-green diorite, (; which, in th-j valley, is strongly scored by glacial markings trending H. lo' E. The summit of the ridge above is all blackened with lichens, but it appeai-s to have been p'aned oil' in a direction JS. GO' E., the rounded surfaces facing westward, a'ul the ])roken ones eastward. Below this portage the riv >r is swift, but sufficiently deep for canoes, and flows between banks of similar rock, to a little fall which was run with half loaded canoes. The fall is caused by a band of white quartzite whiih here crosses the stream. This quartzite is distinctly and ratlier thii ly bedded, the surfaces (jf the beds often showing beautiful ripple ^' markings. It strikes N. 55 E., and dips X. 35' W. at angles between 40' and 60', extending away towards the northeast asahigh conspicuous straight white ridge, while towards the south-west the eye cannot follow it far among the sur.'ounding hills of trap. Some willows grow on the southern side of t lis ridge, and among them was an alder bush, the first that we had seen for a long time. The quartzite is similar to that of Marble Island, and is probably o!:' Huronian aye. ill Like. M'Ln diorite. . iiiti' j.ii'iuitc, 114 F DOOnAUNT KAZAN' AND FEHOCSON RIVERS. <,iniii't/,itt' Luke. Ml ;j,:.. III 4* .1 i\ ■"1 l.M- •1 *:•; t j#U y ( 111' ' ■i» t** .::i t It' ' !*•• • »i* ,*■••> ...j^ ll.^ .>"ii i.- < !<•*• #>■ ,«l" •4„ t. '!»■»» y- i;^. •t. «!■ t-;r)i» 1. »• ( 1; 1 „'l.^ :.tuni',-i. .SL'als. I•'^l;ilnll viic;i,l)uliii' Hills (.f rock. Below this (/''/»iV//(uy/''thorivi'r opens into Qimrtzite Lake, whicli has a very im-gulnr ..iitlino and lies amidst haro rounded hills that either descend abruptly to the water, or are skirted by pi'assy slopes and terriici'S marking old shore-lines of tlio ancient sea. On one of these terraces, seventy t'eet above the lake, a j,'reat number of shells ot Leda arctica were lying just wiiere they hi.d l)een thrown upon tiK> ancient beacn. The Tiro^ress uf the party tlrM\r:h .'iiis lake Wiis much impeded by heavy storms. One pnir ■ krv: ■ ' o tlie south shor >, four miles from the moutli ' Itie .•; ,, ■. • i- a i;il.;e of massive green trap, in places .showing a. vertica' .lai • ••• •■ striking N. oO E. Its smmnit ■was smoothed and clearly scoi ' .n ad' ' tion S. 2o E., and boulders of white «[uart/.it.' are pK-ntifaily seattercu a -out, whi!(! none were seen nor-ih ui the (juart/ite ridge. For several miles farther eastwaixl the sliore consists of similar rocky cliiVs, ;ind then it becomes low and is connjosed of Ijoulder.;. i^ow stony islands surround a point comp(jsed of tlie scarped edge of a boulder terrace thirty iv(!t high. Half a mile beyond this poinl the riser tones up a-id llows in a wide iuid ratlier indeilnite channel .-.mdng 'houlders and points of rock. After a course of a mile iind half, it lushes in a turl)!jii'nt rapid be- tween jutting points of rock into anoth. r small lake. Tv.o seals were seen disporting themselves in the eddies near this rapid, one a square Hipper {Erii/niii/iiiK barbalKs), and the o- her a ringed seal {I'horaj'dtida). Here cam)) was pitched on the evening of 8eptend>er 13th. ])uring the night the north-east wind I'ose to a gale, and at bi'eak of day drove before it a iieavy shower of snow, which duiiug the following night changed to torrents of rain. A delay of a day and a half was thus necessitated, but the time was inipro\ed in enlarging and cori'ecting the Eskimo vocalmlary whicli is given in an appendix to this report. Travel on the afternoon of September ISth was through the fog or dri/./ling rain. The course for three miles was along the low north shore of the small lake, while to the south rose ruggetl hills and naked rocky islands. From the north-ea^t angle of the lake the river flows northward for a mile and a ((uarter, over a locky tloor, to the west end of a very irregular shallow sheet of water about four miles in length, with many low islands of till and boulders, between which there is a current in several places. Some rather high rocky hills rise south of the western end of the lake, but generally speaking the surrounding country appeared to be low and tlat. The rapid river, which flows out of the east end of the shallow lake, was descended for a third of a njile to where the water breaks TYHKIIL. ] FERGUSON RIVER. 145 F J 'I- . :ry. over u ledge of rock, and here the canoes were carried for 400 yards alonv the ..urth bank, to within a short distance of the shore of another sm lake. The port.ige is r good one along the urassy and mossy bank, /)a.'t a shallow ra ,/i(l in which are two rocky ledges, one at the top !) id the other .t the bottom. The rock , a massive green trap, sini' ir to -'1 that lately seen. The surface is well-rounded and gla- citi,;cl, the summit and northern sidus being strongly grooved 8. 17 E. Ou a lee surface, wpV protected from the grinding of this later glacier, some strong glacial grooves were seen trending S. 60° E. No traces of any oiher glaciation could be detected. The next day broke with an east wind and tlriving rain, and was very cold and boisterous. The wind soon went around to tlie north- east, and then into the north, gradually rising to half a gale. The rain turned to snow, and throughout the afternoon the storm was so severe that it was almost impossible to face it. Fi'om the portage downward the course was through a small lake, and down a rapid stream through till covered country studded with low hills of boulder, , ' to a swift chute wliere the river with heavy crested waves rusht t' rough a narrow gap in a high ridgo of similar trap. The river thvi, pass(!S two more shallow rapids over boulders, and enters the norti west end of a narrow lake about six miles and a half long. Two bold rocky hills rise on the north shore of this lake, but for the rest the country is generally covered with till and boulders. This was the last lake on Ferguson Ri\ er, and from its south-eastern La^^t l.ikf end the stream Hows in a south-south easterly direction down a I'ogular and comparatively steep decline, in a shallow channel over boulders and low ridges of trap. After ti-avolling six miles down the impetuous, and usually shallow current, the increasing storm forced tin party to camp in the snow on a stony hillside. The sui-rounding country was a sreat stretch of low hills of boulders, proi)ablv morainic. The boulders are rounded, and theiv appears to be barely sufficient finer material to fill the interstices between them. The morainic hills evidently lie on an undulating Moor of dark-green trap. Throughout the 17th of Septemljer the storm continued ^.o rage, and it was impossible to launch the canoes, but on the 18th the wind had gone down. The river continues its very rapid course south-east svard for a mile and three-quarters, and then turns abruptly eastward and flows with an easy current in a wide channel, with ridges of boulders roughly parallel to it on the south and a low escarpment of till about a mile distant to the north. For two miles further eastwai'd it continues with varying current to ". heavy crooked rapid a third of a mile long, over a "lO 146 F DOOBAUNT KAZAN AND FER0U30N RIVKH8. Ml tjl . III* ■.. «;; ii::: 'II* .::a J tl.' ,i"ii ,t:. ■;.::: •■ IMI^ ,.«! «i -ii,, t. '».*ll I ^*«li al 'X. ti -in* i> .•l•• For the rest of that day we walked without snowshoes on the ico up the river, keeping close to its east bank. Tiio mouths of Churchill and Fishing creeks were pointed out to us as we passed them on the opposite side of the river, as well as the low willow-covered " Never- fail" Island, where the hunters from Churchill usually come every winter to shoot willow ptarmigan. The east bank of the river is low, thinly wooded with white spruce, and a})parently underlain by clay and boulders. The river seemed to be shallow throughout, flowing down an even steady slope over a bed of boulders, and was still open at places where the current was swiftest. Camp was built in a grove of white spruce on top of the low east ban!., behind some wooded islands. November 20th. — The thermometer stood at — 10° F. as we started at 6.50 this morning, with a moderate south-east wind blowing in our faces. We ran for six miles and a half without snowshoes on the ice, under the low but steep thickly wooded banks of the Churchill, often beliind low wooded islands, to within a short distance of the mouth of Deer River. We then ascended the bank, put on our snowshoes, and started across an extensive level plain, with not a hill anywhere in sight. The snow was hard and crusted. Our course was through thin woods of small black spruce, (the first black spruce that we had seen since we had crossed Yath-kyed Lake, three months before) and then across open country skirting the east bank of Deer River. Where this river was first seen it is sixty yards wide, winding through the plain in a tortuous valley thirty feet deep. The plain is covered with moss or lichens and dotted wii-h small lakes, and is evidently very wet in summer. Camp was made this evening in a grove of large white spruce beside the Deer River. The banks are here twenty feet high and generally very thinly wooded. The river is seventy-five yards wide and for the most part appears to be very shallow and full of granite boulders. In some of the deeper holes the ice was now twenty-five inches thick. On a sandy fiat close at hand, were a number of small aspens (Popxlus tremuloides), and two or three small balsam poplars (Populus balsamifera), this being the most northerly point where the latter tree was seen in this district, while a Lfiive f'lniicliill liiver. lloer river. (irovc of ])oi)lar. 148 K DOOIIAUNT KAZAN AND KEKOl'HON 1UVKR8. •• 7' lilt .•1 ,»• i\- '., .c; .1. . ,»' ,.»' ll. |W lit: .:a I .'"Jl ,{:: ./ ,!.*• «t %<*>! f'"' «r '.t.., 1. '•r«<«4i I 'i**u ai ::i:: >• ;.;lti» It • I*M'« ,1 ■.,,.•* ;l >^l l'« 1 •l..,l , '.*'*' >rt'.« Wide lev.-l plaiu. BouldfrH. CriHikeil clianuL'l. Hivi-r. few amiill spec-iin»ns of the former were obaervud on the terniceson the sideH of the hills at Churchill. Novt'iitber SOth. — The thoniionietor stoiid at — G F., with n light northerly wind, as we left the caiiii)-firo this morning' and started across a wide level plain covered witli crusted sin)w, cutting across from liend to hend of the river whicli continued to flow to the west of uy. The plain is generally lichen-covered, with thin groves of small black spruce and larch scattei'orl here and there. A low ridge, probably representing an ancient shoreline, ran along to the east of the course for a short distance during the morning, but throughout the day no other hills were passed. Camp was mad«» on tiie bank of Deer Uiver, the stream being here thirty yards wide, and the banks thirty feet high and apparently of till. A bar of boulders near the camp was closely examined. All the boulders are Archiean granite, gneiss, mica-schist or hornblende-sohists. No fragments of post-Archiean rocks ctiuld be fouiul, either (»f Palieo/oic limestone or of the Churchill arkose beds. Since leaving Churc lill we had travfiUed for about sixty miles, as the crow Hies, southward, up a gradually ascending slope, and had now reached an elevation of about 175 feet above sea-level. December Jst. — The temperature this morning was — 3" F., with a light south-west wind. We ascended the river for about eleven miles, walking much of the distance without snowshoes. The stream retains a very constant width of twenty to thirty \-ards, without noticeable rapids, so that in summer it would doubtless be good for canoes. Tin; channel is often very crooked, and the banks, which are about thirty feet high, ai-e steep and probably of till, no signs of bed-rock being seen. At first long points of boulders project into the bends, but afterv, atds these become less frequent, and the stream is overhung by willows. The boulders are all of granite and gneiss, but in some places higher up the bank a few smaller glaciated cobbles and peJ)l)les of white or butt" Paheozoic limestone were observed. The sides of the valley are at first thiidy wooded, but as the river is ascended the timber becomes much thicker and heavier. At the end of the above distance th(! river bends, coming from the south-west. Here we finally left it, and climbing its east bank walked through thin woods of small black spruce and larch, and over some little lumpy hills, probably sand-dunes, to a grove of black spruce beside a small lake, where we built a camp ior the night. Derembi'r 2nd. — The thermometer this morning was 0° F. with a light south wind and snow. Our course all day was S. S. W. TVNMU. ] CHUMflllLL TO SPLIT LAKK, 140 F ces oil tho I n liglit (I started M^' across H' west of null black probably lo course K) day no c.i' l{iver, iity feet unip was If, gneiss, -Arcliifan Churchill miles, as i had now v., with a ich of the constant >u that in )1 is often , are steep first long so become ! boulders the bank Palieozoic rst thinly h thicker Is, coming its east arch, and of black ht. F. with 3. S. W. through woods of stunted black spruce and larch, and across many small open swamps. Shortly aftei leaving camp we (;ros8ed two roundish lakes, each about a milt^ in diameter. The ci Al", t. ' ic,...::; 11 .'''11 i.'.^ «'..&,, I,. ii,*ii ( . ii«» ..i: .. "Ill* ,. '" 11 ;:!':• 1. "..I s ..• ■••• Indian huntiMs, December 9th. — Thermometer this morning H" F., with a light S.S.E. wind. Wapinihi- ^^ ^ travelled over some low ridges for a mile to the shore of Wa- kinkow^Lakf. pinihikiskow or White-spruce-bluft" Lake, which has been our immediate objective point since we left Churchill twelve days ago. It was said to drain into Niski Luke, and thence by the Kisse-mitiskun River to Nelson River. This lake, over which we walked for three miles, has a rather evenly rounded outline, with steep banks about thirty feet high rising to a moderately level plain or terrace, doubtless of sand oi' clay. The elevatioi\ of this lake is about 570 feet above sea-level, and the surface of the plane or terrace would therefore be about 600 feet above sea-level, or at the sani'.; level as the highest shore-line of Hud- son Bay seen farther north a few days before. At the south end of the lake was a small log house, in which three Indian families were living very comfortably, supporting themselves by fishing with nets under the ice of the lake, and by hunting caribou and rabbits in the surrounding forest. These Indians — originally Crees from York I'^actory — now regularly carry their furs to the trading stores at Split Lake to exchange for aunininition, clothing, etc. They had cut out and blazed a good sledge-track all the way to these stores, so that there would no longer be any uncertainty as to the route that we were to follow. Here we purchased some tish for our dogs, and then crossed a low ridge to another similar lake with low even shores, beyond which wc travelled for a mile through woods and swamps to the shore of Namaco or Trout Lake, which lies at the head of Mit- titto or Limestone River and at an elevation of about 590 feet above tli8 sea-level. From the west side of this lake there is said to be a portage to a stream tlowing into the Little Churchill River, giving a sunmier route to Chui'chill River. On the shore of Namaco I^ake was a small log house in which several families of Cree Indians were living. The clogs chat had hauled our sledges all the way from Churchill through the soft unbroken snow were now very lean and weary. After some ditliculty and considerable talk, we here succeeded in hiring a man and team of four dogs to accompany us for the rest of the way to Split Lake. D"j'i'n}hi'r loth. — Thermometer this morning •22' F., with light south wind and snow. Namaco Lake, across which we travelled for three miles and a half, has very regular outlines with but few hills near its shores. .Mittitto or Limestone River Hows from it near its southern end. After leaving Namaco hiik rvRRElL. J CHUaciIILL TO .SPLIT LAKE. 153 F Namaco Lake tlie trail crosses a wooded ridge for a mile to Wapisew Wapi.sew hakahigansis or Little Swan Lake, at an elevation of about r,60 feet ^'^'^'■• above the sea; it is two miles and a .[uarter long and is generally very similar to the others. Beyond it the trail continues through thick woods of small black spruce over low hills and ridges, and across marshes and small lakes to the shore .: Wapikopow or Willow-point Lake, where we had the good foi cune to shoot a couple of caribou just as we were about to build a camp on the thickly wooded bank. Tlie day had been warm and dull with light Hurries of snow, and the water in many places was standing on the ice, so that the hauling was very lieavy. Decemhrv iiay when the land stood 450 feet lowei' than at present, that being aijout the present elevation of .Vsagiew Lake above the sea. A little more than half a mile from the lake, we I'eached ^littitto Mjttittj River, here a small stream thirty-five feet wide with low banks over- I'i^'''- hung with willows, and foi' two miles we followed its south l)ank 154 F DOOUAUNT KAZAN AND FERGUSON RIVERS. '.. «;;.1„ "'• 1 :."")• 1'. I«t' ! IWI ,.«' (i •4., 1. -tt>k«l I iU.. 4t "i" i 'i..,! ; I.. ..a* through thick woods, and over suicall ponds with steep banks. We then climbed a steep hilly slope 120 feet hiyh on the south side of the valley, and reached a gently undulating table-land, at an elevation of about 575 feet above the sea. where we built our camp for the night. Deceit be r I2th. — Thermometer this moi-ning 20' F., with a moder- ate south wind. Dui'ing the day there were occasional Hurries of snow witli much water on the ice, and the hauling was very heavy and bad. The higher undulating land was crossed for several miles through woods of small black spruce, much of w Inch had been killed by fire, and then we descended a long slope of low flat land and willow-covered swamps. Two mile!-, and three-(|uarters across this low land, and over a ridge fifty feet high, brought us again to the b.inks of Mittitto Kiver, which had swept around a long course and was now flowing towards the east, between stratified alluvial banks fifteen feet high. White siuucc These banks are wooded with tall white spruce, which looked very beautiful after the monotony of the stunted black spruce forest. The aneroid gave this place an elevation of 340 feet above the sea. The river was crossed, and then a small Lake half a mile long, on the allu- vial flat, which is known to the Indians as Peeshew Pukwagan, or Wild- Esker. cat-fishing Lake. South of this lake the sledge-i'oad crosses a long, narrow, and undoubtedly sandy, ridge or esker, which runs as far as the eye can see both N. 85' E. and S. 85' W. Its crest is here but a few yards wide, and both sides are %ery steep. At t!ie trail it is ninety feet higli, but the line of the crest is undulating, and in places it app 'ars to rise to a height of two hundred feet, where the ridge seems to be wider, with a mammillated surface. Besides some spruce it is thinly wooded with iianksian pine and some small birch, the most northern point at which the former tree was seen on this overland trip. As seen from its summit Mittitto llivor appears to follow the northern side of this esker eastward for a long distance AVe slid down the Nery steep south side ui the esker, and then for half a mile travelled through hilly and evidently sandy counti-y, thinly wooded with i)lack spruce and Banksian pine. Four miles further, over gently sloping wooded ridge-s, brought us to the shore of >fusogetewi or iMoose-nose Lake, on a small island in which we built ■L f amp for the nigiit. Close to camp, projecting through the sjio\v, w .o ,! low rocl: exposure, the fii'st seen since leaving Churchill Hivcr. First AicliiiTui It cc'.') V;., and dipping \. 40" AV. ?.Q feet ..ijove sea-level, and apjiears to lie along ^i;=s i.iie Ml ni.,.i'C)p of tl;o Archii'fin rnck<. It has generally rather Banks ^.^ *\' ■•k I 't.4H ^ 'il4U 41, X ii •1 1 l- ■•• .'"'""fc I Reach Split Lake. associated with fine-grained diabase. Tiie roar of a heavy fall was heard a short distance to the south, but we passed it without seeing it, by crossing a neck of land north of the river. We built a camp in the woofis on the north bank a short distance above this fall. 7 cemher loth. — Temperature this morning — 16° Fahr., with a fresh north wind. We continued U> travel along under the north bank of Nelson liiver, which was flowing clear and open to the south of us, until we reached Split Lake, which we crossed to the trading store of the Hudson's PJay Company, where we were very kindly received by Mr. William Aiken, the trader in charge, and our journey through the unexplored country from Churchill was accomplished. Split Lakk to Nouwav House. The journey from .Split Lake to Norway House, a distance of about 225 miles by the sledge road, was made in eight days — betwe'^n De- Sledge road, cember 17tli and 2'ith. Tt was over a well cut out sledge road, which had been more or less constantly travelled by loaded dog teams. Much of the journey was accomplished in the night, so that it was quite im- possible to carry on even a roughly approximate survey, or to go even :i few hundred yards aside from, the course, on which we were almost constantly running to examine the country, however interesting it might appear to be. Tlie few notes recorded below were made at points where we were obliged to stop to sleep or to take our meals. The fust day we travelled on Siilit L'dce, running on the ice beside its rooky bunks, and we camped for t\v- night near the head of the lake within sound of the heavy falls on the Nelson Rivei\ The next morning we left the Nels ;n River to the east and struck up Grass River, keeping on the ice or going up into the woods for short distances to avoid rapid .stretches of open water. The banks were chiefly of rounded gneiss, etc., not very high but occasionally rising into little hills. The lower intei-niediate land appeared to be clay or sand. All was woode - prol)al)ly of sund or- day, to a small lirancli of Aluskoos- kow or Gratis Kiver, wlu-re camp was liuilt on a low pleasant iH)int among spruco and jwplars. The next day was a stormy one with a heavy fall of snow. Our course was at tirst up (irass River among low rounded rocky hills, which l^icky liills. looked strangely weird, in the gloctm of the night and early morning, as we pissed them through the heasily falling snow. We tluMi crossed n small lake ai\d asoended a very winding creek overhung with willows, after which for a coufile of miles we crossed low liills and ridges, gen- erally trending about H. ">") W., ju.d woodeil with Hanksian [)ine and small poplar. South of the hills is a plain, probably -laudy, wooded with lianksian pine, spruce and poplar, and on it we built "Ur camp on tiie bank of a brook llowing soutliwaii. D'Ceutlur 'Jlnt. — The course was still southward for eleven miles. SiJinci' imd through thin woods of small spruce anil Banksian pine, much of which '"'" had been tire-killed, over undulating country t) Susaskwagauioos or Sturgeon Jjake, whose white snow-covered surface was beaut iticil by many small green inlands. We cross(,'d this lake, forthrc miles and a half, and continued over small lakes, and across several ndges of la'. J wooded with spruce and tine tall Hanksi.iii pines, to some Indian houses at Cross Poi ' -ige, on the north shore of Seepiwisk Lake, wliere a dinner of fresh moose meat renewed oui' strei\gth for the remainder of the day. Near the houses are some beautifullv smoothed ami rounded bosses l!"l ^'iiciss. of well banded red i^iieiss, striking S, SO' W. They are strongly scored by glacial scratchings i^rending S. (58 W. Many curved cross fractures opening south-westw rd, and rough lee surfaces, indicate quite clearly the direction of motion of the glacier. We continued ten miles up the shore of the lake to a wooded point, wliere we camp'-d for the night. Di'ceinher J^'id. — -To-day we ran aV)out fifty-five miles, to the ' hid- f'loss Lake. Sim's Bay Company's store at Ci'oss Lake. ])art of the time without suow-ihoes on the ice of Seepiwisk and Cross lakes, and part of the time on snowshoes through the intervening woods. December I-ird. — After obtaining a fr> supply of provisions at the store, we continued to the head of Cross Lake, crossed Whisky Jack portage, about four miles in length, over lightly rolling and probal)ly sandy hills, covered with spruce and laiL'e Banksian pine, travelled on the ice for a few mile.- over a lake, cro.-- "d another short portage, and then ran about two more miles o\er :i lake to an island where IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A* •V^ ks ^ ^ .^^ 1.0 2.5 iai2.8 wo ^^ £f L& 12.0 1^ 114 Photograiiiic Sciences Corporation 23 WiST MAIN SYREIT WiBSTiR,N.Y. I4SW (716) •72-4S03 '^ 4 158 F DOOUAINT KAZAN AND KERGUSON RIVEK8. I./ It* .:s > "•* i..J. ■"— ,•1' :i; .tM4 t»"i :>'* 0f Norway Country (li'scribt'd. Line of travel. R.'lief I face. theio wa.s an Indian house. Here we passed the niglit, having come about twenty-five miles. Derftnher 2.'tth. — We ero8.sed the lake ahead of us, about twelve miles in length, and then struck across Ru.ss Island for fifteen miles to Little Playgreen Lake, over a rather low country, occasionally wooded with poplar, but chiefly with small black spruce and larch. A few groves of large white spruce were found. We reached Norway House at six t)Vlook in the evening, having been obliged to leave one of our dogs behind us on the road, worn out by the continuous travel. We remained at Norway House four days, enjoying the kind hospi- tality of Mr. and Mrs. Macdonald, resting both men and dogs before starting on our final tramp across Lake Winnipeg. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. The present llepuvt refers to explorations made between north lati- tu'lcs 50 and 65' and west longitudes 90 and 106'; an area bounded on the east by the west coast of Hudson Bay, on the south by the Churchill and Nelson ri\ers, on the west by the Chipman and Telzoa or Dodbaunt rivers, on the north by the lower portion of Doobaunt River, inclr?ding Aberileen, Schultz and liaker lakes and Chesterfield Inlet. The area thus defined includes about 300,000 square miles. Through it a line was travelled northward from Black Lake to the forks of the Doobaunt River, while another line, roughly parallel to this, and from seventy-five to one hundred miles further east, was followed from Reindeer Lake to a point on Kazan River in north latitude 63 8. The lower eastward-flowing portion of Doobaunt River, with Chest-^rfield Inlet ; the Ferguson River a hundred miles further south ; and tlio west coast of Hudson I»ay, from Chesterfield Inlet to Churchill, were also explored. Besides which, two lines were surveyed in winter from Fort Churchill to Nelson Rive.. Tlie general relief of the whole country is very low and unpro- nouuL'ed, much of it having the appearance of vast undulating plains underlain by santly or stony till and covered with stunted spruce and lai'ch, or short grass and deciduous northern plants. Here and there rise rounded rocky hills, the highest of which, in the neighbourhood of Kasba Lake, have altitudes of about 1,700 feet above sea- level. North- east of Doobaunt Lake, some prominent hills of green trap and red conglomerate f(«rm conspicuous features in the otherwise monotonous landscape. From Kasba and Daly lakes the country has a general and moderately regular slope north-eastwnrd, until it reaches the high- est raised sea-beaches or post-glacial shore-lines, after which the slope TVUIIL. ] PHYSICAL (JKOfJIlAPHV. 159 P is inoro directly eastwaid towards the prosoiit shore of Hudson Hay. South of Yath-kyed Lake and Ferguson Uiver, the slope of the country was not directly determined, hut it would seem to be almost directly eastward towards Hu;lson r>ay. The following are the approximate altitudes of some of the principal Ahitudi-s. features of the country, o}>tainod hy a comparison of the readings of two aneroids with standard mercurial l-arometers read at Fort Chip- pewyan, Fort Churchill and York Factory, and hy estimations of the rise and fall of the streams ; — Feet. St'hvyn Lak*- 1.S40 Hcifflit-of-Iiiind north of Hi-luyii Liiko l.ViO Daly Laki- 12i)0 Dodlutuiit Liikt) r>(Hi HakiT Lakf 20 Kasha Lakf 1270 Knnadtti Lake 1100 An);ikrii)i Tjako SCO Yatli-ky
    re in the vicinity. Low drumlinoid ridges of boulders are common over the surface, and rugged irregular hills of boulders mark the positions of moraines of the Keewatin glacier which centred in the northern part of the area. Long straight sandy ridges or eskers stretch across the country, extending in uninter- rupted courses over the surfaces of hills and valleys alike. A few gravel beaches mark the shores of some small extra-glacial lakes, which existed in some places when the Keewatin glacier was finally retreating towards its centre of accumulation. The Coastal Plain lies between the highest ancient post-glacial sea- c^i^tal plain. beach and the pre.sent shore of Hudson Bay, sloping gradually from a height of 500 or fiOO feet above the .sea, down to sea-level. Much of the surface is composed of stony till, like that of the Interior I'pland, but the till is diversified with .sandy plains, and on all the steeper slopes gravel terraces or coast-cliffs mark the line.s of the old sea-shore. Many of the terraces fill narrow gaps between adjoining hills, and the lower ones are often btrewn with shells such as are found in the adjoining sea 160 K DOUHAUNT KAZ\N AM» KKIKJU80N UIVER8. I, .:a •41.. ..M< Cuci- \ij|l"\>. WiltcrsllCri rhi|iii>»n Hivcr. at the present time. The waves liuve reduced the surface irre^uhiritieti of this {M)t'iioii fit' the country to some extent, but the more rocky portions in the vicinity of Chest«'Hiel' orosion, for they are frozen up most of the year, and each spring, as thty open, the ice jiacks the boulders that form their banks into massive walls which resist erosion almost as effectually as the unliroken rock itself. Hesidi's this, the time since the disappear- ance of the glacier may not have been vei-y loni.'. The watershed, dividing the sti-eams llowing westward into the Mackenzie Hisi-rand those llowing eastward intti Hudson Hay, strikes along the heightof-land luirth of Selwyn Lake, and thence turns southward to Wollaston Lake, tlinmgh the centre of which it passes, for this large lake has two almost cjual streams flowing from it in opposite directions. Chiinnan Kiver discharges its waters into the .Mackenzie. It flows from Selwyn Lake, which has an elevati'l»*'i oxaiiiinwl, vi/. : -'riio iJuobaniit .r TcI/mh, tlu' Kazan ami llic Kri-jfu- .soii, wliih- two of tlie uppor tril»iitarit's of tlm Tlil( wiaza Itivcr \v.t« also (•xploml. Of tlie ro'iiainin;; streams, sin. wti in dotted lines on tliH acronipanyins,' map, ilic mouths of somo w<-vi' soon on tlic shore of Hudson liay, Itfyond which, all that i> ktiiiwii of them, was learned from ICskiinos or imlian^. The Dooltaunt liiver. the 1 ir;,'e-(t of' the aliovenientioiiod .stream.'-, '!'• l/nu (u- ri.ses in Daly Lake, at- an altitude of 12'.M) feet aliove tho sea uiw.r)""'^ and Mows north-northeastward for 'J"^."! miles, following its wind- ings, to Doohaunt Lake, dtf.seendiiiLt in this distance ahout 7!)(l feet. Of this distanee 1 7"> mihrs is throuLjIi the .juiet water of larger or smaller lakes, while 110 miles is running water, which thus his an average descent of rather more than si'ven feet to the mile. The channel is shallow, .md the hanks and lied are hoth usually eomiiosed of iMiulders. I)ool>aunt Lake is a hody of fresh-water of unknown e.xtent, which, in August, ISO)?, seemes, and are the favourite feeding grounds of numerous bands t f caribou. Below Doobaunt Lake, this river continues its ecair.se north-north ea^twar*! for 142 miles, to the I'orks, '.'1 miles of which is running water. In this distance is the heavy rapid abose (Irant Lake, in which the river de.scends 100 foet in two miles and a half. At the Fork.s, the river turns abruptly eastward, and, passing through Aberdeen, Schult/ and liaker lakes, discharges into the head of (.'hostertield Iidet. Its total length from the head of Daly Lake to tlus point is 7r»0 miles. If to this is added Chesterheld Inlet, extending from the mouth of the river to the west coast of Hudson Hay, the total length of the D-obaunl or Telzoa Uiver is S75 miles. The Kazan Uiver rises in Kasba Lake, which lies tifty miles east of Ka/iui Kivor J)aly fjake. and at about the same elevation. From this lake the river (1o\ns for 220 miles north-northeastward, parallel to the course of the Telzoa Uiver, to the west emi of Augikuid Lake. Throughout this (listance the shores are sloping, anil largely composed of boulders or boulder-strewn till. From the w(>st end of Augikuni Lake the river turns sharply eastward for ninety miles, and then northward for thirty-Hve miles to the south-west angle of Yath-kyed Lake. Yath- II Ki: DOOHAI'NT KAZAN AND FUnGUSON niVKRB. I ..... "J i; ..M« ■:...,| Tl Uiv.r. ilfwia/.u rViclir: lie Kivcr. Ft'r^ru.sDii I{iv.r. HuiInhh Bay sliore. kyed Lake hiis here a width of thirty miles, and appeared to extend a long distance southeastwai'd, for its soutlieaslern shore could not bo sain from any of the liills asoeneach, hetween hi;,di and low tide, usually several uules in width, has the appearance of a ;,'real mud«ly houMer-strewn plain. The ref,'ion may also he divided into Forests, and Treeless Plains, or 1 oi.-t. " Barren Lands," by a line wiiicli curves around the bottom of Button Hay, and then continues within slight of the shore as far as Hubbart Point, beyond which it strikes north-westward, almost at rij,'ht angles NTtlnrii to the nuvgnetic meridian, crossini; Kazan Kiser at the southern Nar- """' rows of F']nnadai Lake, and Telzoa Hiver about the middle of Hoyd Lake. The forested country is chielly wooded with small black spruce P.lai k -\>v\w (/'icea uiffni), and larch {Lnri.r Americnua), while the lowlands are al- ' ' most everywhere covered with deep mossy swamps. Proceeding north- ward the woods become vonlined to the lowlands and the tops of the hills remain treeless. Such are the conditions of the surface around Kasba and l>aly lakes. Furthei- northward the wooded plains give place more or less suddenly to level or rolling grassy plains, which constitute the Barren Lands. As the forest disappears, much of the surface is covered by deep frozen mos.sy bogs or tundras, but these occur only along the edge of the forest, and do not form part of the Harren Lands proper. Besides the two species of trees above mentioned, tlie white spruce wiiitc spnict'. {Picfd iilha), grows to (|uite a large size on some of the dry eskers, and on the stony, well-drained, banks of the Telzoa liiver. It ox- tends northward almost to Doobaunt Lake. ft)rming a larger tree than either of the otliers. At Fort Churchill, near the shore of Hudson liay, small white spruce were found to have entirely replaced black spruce in the swamps. A few miles farther inland, black spruce again takes its normal place in similar swamps, and white spruce almost disapjaars. Banksian Pine (Pitnis Jianksiana) grows on the sandy plains along i',„iiksi.iii Stone River, and northward, on dry sandy ridges, as far as Selwyn and I'""'- Theitaga lakes, but it does not extend a.s far north as spruce or larch. Hi 104 F nooHArNV KAZAN AND FKHfiUHON IMVER8. [!,:': .J "I Ml., J" ■:...i Ciuioc l.irih. Cnnoi'-bircli (lirtnfn pajii/ri/rrn) grows to a fairly large sizo on tlieesker at tlu' lieml of Thiewiaza Hiver, hut as a rule it is a small trco in tliis region. It gralually lU^crea^os in siz«i and disjipimars at tli»' I'dge of Ahim'11. ^jjg Harri'ii Lands. Some >ni.ill aspen tn'cs (I'ofmlitu Ivvinlniileg) was seen as far north as Daly Tiake on Telzoa Hiver, latitude 60 on tlic head -waters of Tidewiaza Hi'pr, and at the mouth of Churchill Hiver on Hudson Hay. H rren 1,1111' Is. The Barn n liMuds, or nmn* properly the trcele.ss plains, ehar- acterize the hirger part of the country depicted on the accompanying map. They consist very largely of rolling plains, underlain hy stony till, and covered with shi»rt gra.s< or sedge. Doubtless the grotnid is per- manently frozen at no great (hst;'nce lielow the surface, and the surface in suunuer U almost constantly wet, like the plains of Assinilioia and Saskatchewan in early spring, Hounded rocky hills rise here and there through the clay, and on these, as well as of ten on the more stony parts of the till, the surface is ilottcd with a thicK growth of lichens, such as Alt'rtcrld or/iri>lriica, I fiivfri/f.ns, and Cifrnriti li>/atnlica. Many flowers brighten these plains during the short summer. A list of these, with the other plants, will be found in Ap])enilix 111. 1h( tinted jfroves iif tiinbcr. On the banks of the streams that tlow n(trthward from the forest country, .scattered gro\es of spruce and larch were met with far out into the Harrcn Lands, and their pf».sition8 are marketl on the aceomp;inying map. It is also evident, from the amount of drift- wofKJ found at the forks of l>0(ibaunt River, that groves exist (m the west branch of :hiit river, not very far above the forks. .Some Eskimos, stopping at Churchill, also reported that there is an isolated wooded ai'ea, within the Barren Lands near the head-waters of the Thaannt' River. Fauna. y The following is a synopsis of the notes made concerning the fauna of the district : — ■ ish. I'ish seemed to be everywhere abundant in the lakes and streams, though vei-y few were caught. The lake trout (Cristi vomer imntaynish) and whitetish (i'm't'cfonnn rf ii/xiformis) npiienved to be the most abund- ant and valuable food fishes, the latter being e.specially abundant in Doobaunt Lake. Tike ( L'so.r hiciuH) and one or more s})ecies of suckers, were also seen. It is probable that some of the true salmon ascend the inlets and streams west of tlio noithern part of Hudson Bay, but the fact was not definitely determined. ' •tu PIITSIfAL arr<'n-grounk oxen {Ori/ias tnosr/iatitu) y\\\~k xt«>ii(l ovt-r tlie hill THn liiiuils. The wliitf fox ( Viil/u-g /ayo/tiis) is found <'vrrywl»erc on tlie Hiirren Lands, l)iit inoro ospfrially along tli«> coant, where it appoans to l)e very nunifrous. Tlu' \volvei«'ne {d'nlo /nunm) i.M one of thf most common rarnivorous animals throughout tiie wiiole region. It doulttless lives on any of the other animals that it is alil»> to ttvereomc, but it would seem to be particularly adept at hunting carib(M), In one instance four of tht.se animals were following one full-grown deer, and they seemed to be driving it gradually down info a lake. Morten {MuxteUt Americana) are particularly ai)undant in thin woods in the more southern ))art of the district. Otter (Ijiitrn i'ana- (/«;/wj,'*) also live on the banks of the streams throughout the wooded country, but neither of tiiese two species appeared lo extend into the Barren I^ands. Tlu! lilack Hear {Ursna /lm<'ri(vrn«N) hius a similar range towards the north. White Bears {^Thahi»!«ircl(iK itKtritlnnin) were seen on several occasions near the shore between Wallace Biver and Churchill, but they are no longer abundant, as they would appear to have been a centur}' or more ago. The Arctic hare {Li-pim (jiaritdix) was found to range everywhere throughout the Barren I^mds from the edge of the woods northward, but it was nowhere found in any abundance. A few bands of Chippewyan Indians inhabit the more southern portions of the region shown on the accompanying map, roaming Chipiu'wynns. uurtliward towards the edge of the Barren l^ands. They live chietly on the fish which they catch in the rivers and lakes, and on the Barren- ground C iribou, which they kill in large numbers as these animals attempt to swim across the rivers aiul narrow parts of lakes. During the winter they ti-ap some fur-bearing animals, chietly martens, which, in the spring, they take to the traders at Luke Athabasca, Beindeer Lake, or Churchill, and exchange for guns, ammunition, hardware, tobacco or such other articles as they may need. They then scatter to the lakes, where they live on fish throughout the summer. In the autumn they again return to the traders, with a few more furs, after which they depart into the woods to live in their tents, or camps made of brush and niiiss, for the winter, and are usually not seen again until the following spring. They are tindd '-nd sombre in disposition, and rarely make any exuberant display of either joy or sorrow. The Eskimos, who live chietly on the banks of Kazan River, north of the edge of the woods, are (juite diflPerent in disposition from their morose neighlx)urs to the south. Active and volatile, they have no HfUfM. Hun NativPH. EHkinicw. TVUMil. (iEOLO<>|('At. Hl'MMAKV. ir,7 p thin licsitatinn in «'xliiliitiii^ llu-ir Ms. ( ii,,- nii.inrnt tlicy «uiilv, uiid tin- next tia')' wuulil hr sljotlding tl, and wliat wen" not inimudiatcly use I, wcn^ pih-d in in-aps, and hiniod muler large stoiu-s, so that tht-y woniil Im- safe from wolveionoN, and Hvaiiat)h> for usttdurin;; thr followinj; winter. Their ihithing, lioth for winter and suninien in made of deerskin, and theii' kyacks, or single raiioes, are made of dcerHkin pirchment, sewed over- a iiglil wooden frame. Thistriheof IvskinioN appeared to nuinlior lietweon five and six .\,ii,iiH.r. hundred .souls. They seem to live entirely iidand, and tlius to differ from the maritime seal-hunting Kskimfis who iiihahit. all the Arctic coasts from (Jreeidand around to ISehring Sea. Their language is very ilistin<;t from the ICskimos of Lahrador and I.iiiiK"a(?< the north side KKIUll'BON KIVKKH. I' > / ,,0 I'atnhro Silurian. A small oiiilii-r of Tn'iiton liiiu'stonn on an iKlniid in NirliolHoii Lake. A still siiiiillcr (lilt li*r near Fort Cliurchill. Tiu* liiiii'titouc on Htur- getdi and Heaver lakes. Viniifii'ian. Atlialmsca sandstone and eon^'lonieratp. Masses and (iyk«-H<)f dark- green liasic eruptive roeks, sucli as iiitclistont', dialiase, minette, etc. Flows and dykes of retldish a(i rliyolites or quart/.-porpliyries, an»leRite.s, augite porphyrites, ete. Ciiurvldll arkoHe. I/iironinn. Mat'))le Island (white) (|uart/itt>. (jreeni>li (piart/ite, intimately nHHoeiated witli eruptive rocks, hialmse and galiliro. /.iiiif' ntian. An unditVorentiated ina.ss of granite and granitoid gneis.s, undoubt- edly ri-j>re.senting in the main tin- Kundamental (ineissof other parts of the Prtitaxis, in legani to tin- age <»f which very little new information has lieen obtained in this region. With the.se roeks, on tlie north shore of I'aker Lake, are associated some hands of reddish crystalline litnestune, pt)ssil)ly rejiresenting parts of the CJienville series of tlie better-known parts of Canada. ,11* :fi u :> Applii'.'itioii naiiic. CJraniti' imi gncihs. f'rystiilliiif HtrwiHtonf. LxiltKNTIAN. J The name Laurentian is thus here applied almost exclusively to the crystalline, tiiassive, or alterci «-xpl«ii>(l woiiltl mmmii t iiKiHl of (Ik- coiintrv li«-twi!eii liilitui|**H .*i<,) ami 1)2 , tliDUgli fiiitii this iiiii>l l)i> tak'ii tlw Muroiiiiiii atoii arouinl KaMliaiiiwI Kruiadii lak»!s, t hi tlii> iiio>ti wcsU'iiy litu- of tiavfl, tlir ;»iaiiit<'^ ami giit>isM\'i t'Xt*>ii(l iiorlhsvani froin lilack l,tMt Hhoreot |)auiit |jikt> ami down tlm hoohautit Itivci to r^ady Maijorii- Laki>, tllou^il tlirou<;iioiit tluH distaiicf tli<*y an> oftt'ti in ciMitact wiili lli>> overlying lliii'onian and ( aiiiliiiaii I'oi'ks. N'oilli of Ijidy Marjori)' hakf tli(^ liaurcntian lock.s disa|i|»'ai' iindci the ('aininian strata, and tlr'yaii) not a^ain »r*'n until tlif Caniltiian Iwlt is ciov-i'd and tlir noitli slioro of Soliidiz Tjukc is n^adifd. (Jn tliH second linn of tiavti, tin- Laiiii-nlinn rocks undcrlii' tlu? country frper portion of Ferguson Kiver is also underlain hy Laurentiun gneisses. Himilar granites and gneisses occur along the north shore of Baker liUke, and down hoth shores of Chesterlield Iidet to its mouth, whence thev extend southward along the shore of Hudson Hay to a short dis- tance nortli of Haker's Foielami. HlRONIAX. The largest area of Huionian rocks found in this district, extends Ar.iw. more or less continuously for i JO miles along the west coast of Hud- son Hay, from near liaker s I'oreland to a point forly-tive miles north 170 p DOOBAUNT KAZAN AND KRROl'SON KIVER8. f»f CapeJ' Esquimaux. iFroin tlio shore of Hudson Bay inland, up Ferguson River, they were traced for seventy miles. Another ar(>a wa.s crossed while descendiiifr the Telzoa River between Schult/ and Raker lakes. A third occurs on the Kazan River belowIAniiikuni Lake. A fourth appears in the basins of Kasba and Ennadai lakes. Fifth and sixth areas are repivsented by out- crops of white clastic • :> Basic fnii>- ci ves. Absencf fossils. Stratigi-iVjilii- •!al |j<)siti quartz. The rock is very much more altered than most of the sandstone of the Athabasca series, but it i-esembles it in containing pebbles of the white (juartzite, and it lies unconformably below the Cambro-Silurian limestones. .»..« :> ,Ul>4W* NicholHon Liikt! oiitlitT. Camuro-Sillkiax. The only representatives of rocks of this age found within the area of the accompanying mip, are two small outliers ; one on an island near the north end of Nicholson Lake, and the other just north of the missitm at Churchill. The exposure in Xicholson Lake occurs for 130 paces along the shore of a small low island. It consists of a few feet of white limestone in regular beds, slightly tilted .so that it dips at a low angle towards the west. Fossils seemed to be scarce and poorly preserved, b"t the few that were found indicate that it is of about the age of the Trenton of Fjaatern Canada. * Loc. oil. |). 28 K., ft sei/. TVMILI. r.EOI.0(!ICAI, SUMMAKY. 17') P The only (leteniiinablu species fdiind are enumerated on pp. f)") and 50. Other areas of similar liiiu«st(ni(' douhtless also occur in th.- vicinity, for a few houldt'rs of whit*' limestone were found on the surface at various points nortli of I'.arlow Like, hut nnno of these areas were U>cate(i. The Churchill outlier eonsisted of a few s([uare feet of yellowish ( liuichill compact limestone in the lM)ttoMi of a fissure, along a line of hedding ""''"'•'• in the (Miureliill arkose. It was (composed largely of three species of corals, which se*'m<'d ti) he in the same position in which they originally grew on the surface of l\w arkose. Assuciated with the corals were i)roken fragments of shells of ( )rthred along tlie l)each, showing the presence of larger are is in the icinity. The only other outcrops of Treiitoti limestone, etc., examined dur- ing the seasons of 189.'? and lS!il were on the shores of Pine Island, Sturgeon and Heavei' lakes. These will be found descril)ed on page 101. SlUKIAN. Siluiian rocks in jilace were not seen during the course of the two explorations here treated of. JUit masses of white limestone are scat- tered along the river hank near Churcliill, having evidently been ^ . I-c « ISC massL'.s derived from .some {)arent beds near at hand. The limestone is very similar to that found at the mouth of tlie Saskatchewan River, and four at least, out of the five species of fossils here collected and enumerated on page '.•!, are common to these two localities, and three of them have, as yet, not been found elsewhere. Plekstocenk. There is probably no part of Xorth America to which the student of glacial geology looks with greater interest than to the region lying north-west of Hudson J>ay, for, during a part, or perhaps during the whole, of the glacial period, there here existed a great neve or "gathering ground,' from which the ice Hewed outward in all directions. lassL'.s ( liiirchill. *Seo HeiHirt on N'lirthwcstcrn Miinitobiv, by J. B. Tyrrell, pp. 202 E and 20;HC. Ann. Rep. (J.S.C, vul. V. (X.S.) lSlK)-ill. 176 F DOOUAUNT KAZAN AND KKRtiUHON UIVEHS. ' II* i.J in' •\' l Ket'Wiitin fflitcipf. The vast ^'lacier llius fui-mcd has been called by the writer the Keewatin (Jhvcier, from theCret' Imlian word Ki-wO-tin, which means not til, or north wind, and the namp is considt-red a})j)ropriatf, not only bef!auso the gathoring ground lay partly within the district of Keewatin, but also l)ecause it was the most northern of three f^reat centres of jjlaciation — the Cordilleran, the Keewatin and the Labradorean. Ill time aiul lK)sition. Previous observations have s-liown* that the Keewatin j;lacier was intermediate in time, as in position, Ijetween the first and last of those above-named. Hut. unlike them, the centre, from which its ice Mowed liittnncili.itc outwards in all iliiections, was situated on a wide and moderately level [ilain, which is now from 400 to 800 feet only above sealevel and slope'^ seaward from hif;her land towards the south-west. Whether this plain was hii;lier during,' any part of the glacial epoch than it is at present, has not as yeb been determined, but no satisfactory evidence of such elevation has been found. At the close of the glacial peiiod the land here stood several hun- dred feet b<'low its present level, as is shown by the old beaches which rise one above another to heights of from HOC to 600 feet above sea- level on the maritime plain west of HudssiiKf nf they would have furnished a supply of moisture which, in the prevail- .•viilfiicf of J,, . ]j^^, teiiipeniture ot that ejiocli, would have been precipitated as of tin' liiiul. snow on the adjoining land. The snow would have gradually accumulated to a great depth, and would thenc(^ have spread outwards with a long easy lope toward'^ the interior of the continent, and a more papid descent towards the sea-coast. This would agree with all the phenomena observed, and appears to the writer to represent the conditions that obtained here in glacial times. A general rise of the land of 700 feet above its present level, would have drained Hud.son liay, and would have carried the water a long distance from the pre- sent Arctic coast. If these conditions had prevailed, it is exceedingly dilKcult to understand whence the moisture could have been derived to form the vast accumulation of i.'c which, apparently, covered the interior plains of the north from the .State of Iowa northward to the Arctic <3cean. •liliicial I)t'i«isit.- a. Tiieso are hii^h hills of Cretaceous shales and sandstones risinj^ from lOOo t() 1600 feet above tli«^ low and tiio