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(.KIXXHLL LAND, t . (trKK Ik id \o!t Nh r. ' ".) I S C, VON: ^ , I N '. 1 K r I CE. I S .S 8 . International Polar Expedition. REPORT ON IHE Proceedings of the United States Expedition TO LADY FRANKLIN BAY, GRINNELL LAND, BV ADOLPHUS W. GREELY, First lieutenant, fifth cavalry, acting signal officer and assistant, commanding the expedition. u 1 VOLUME I. WASHI NGTON: GOVERNMKNT I'RINTING OFFICE. 1888. i^^ndi^i^^^a^.A> T ( In the House of Representatives, yune 17, 1886. Resolved by the House of Representatives [the Senate concurring, That 4,500 copies, with the necessary illustrations, be printed of the Report on the Proceedings of the International Polar Expedition to Lady Franklin Bay, Grinnell Land, by First Lieutenant A. W. Greely, Fifth Cavalry, United States Army, Acting Signal Officer; 1,250 copies of which shall be for use of the Senate, 2,500 copies for use of House, and 750 copies for distribution by the Signal Office to foreign libraries and Arctic explorers. (II) CONTE NTS (V01.UME I.) Reporter the commanding officer . . . — I APPENDICES. 1. War Department order assigning Lieutenant Grcel/ to command 97 2. War Department order organizing the expedition - -. 97 3. Instructions from the Signal Office reganling the etpedition 98 4. List of commissary subsistence stores, with rcmarlts thereon 108 5. Records left at and taken from Southeast Gary Island, August, 1881 109 6. Lieutenant Kislingbury's report of trip to Life Boat Cove no 7. Records taken fr n and left at Washington Irving Island, August, l88l ,_ no 8. Records obtainr at Discovery Harbor, August I, 1881 in 9. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on Water-course Bay, August, 1881 _ n> 10. Lieutenant Kislingbury's re(|uest to be relieved, with Lieutenant Greely's indorsement na 1 1 . Orders No. 5, relieving Lieutenant Kislingbury and ordering him to report to the Chief Signal Ofticer nj 12. Orders No. 6 amending Orders No. 5 nj Ij. Lieutenant Kislingbury's request for modification of Orders No. 6 . n4 14. Onlers No. 8 modifying Orders No. 6 n4 15. Lieutenant Lockwood's n!port on exploration of St. Patrick Valley n4 16. Sergeant Brainard's report establishing Depot B near Cape Beechey ns 17. Sergeant Jewell's meteorological report in connection with trip establishing Depot B 117 18. Sergeant Gardiner's report of trip to Cape Murchison n9 19. Sergeant Linn's report on moving Depot A to Cap* Murchison n9 20. Orders to Dr. Pavy for overland journey to Lincoln Bay 120 21. Report of Dr. Pavy on trip to Lincoln Bay 121 22. Report of Lieutenant Lockwood on journey to the Bellows 124 23. Orders to Dr. Pavy on exploring Archer Fiord . . 126 24. Report of Dr. Pavy on attempted trip down Archer Fiord . 126 25. Report of Lieutenant Lockwood on sledge journey to Depot B near Cape Beechey 127 26. Report of Sergeant Rice on sledge journey to Depot B, near Cai>e Beechey ■ 129 27. Onlers to Dr. Pavy to proceed to Cape Joseph Henry . 130 28. Report of Dr. Pavy on trip towards Cape Joseph Henry _ 131 29. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on St. Patrick Valley 133 30. Sergeant Rice's report on camp equipage 134 31. Lieutenant Lockwood's orders to attempt crossing of Robeson Channel 134 32. Lieutenant Loclcwood's report on attempted crossing of Robeson Channel 135 33. Dr. Pavy's orders for journey to Wrangel Bay 138 34. Dr. Pavy's report on journey to Wrangel Bay ..., 139 35. Dr. Pavy's supplementary report under Appendices 27 and 33 141 36. Lieutenant Lockwood's orders for preliminary journey to Cape Beechey . . 14a 37. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on journey ordered in Appendix No. 36 . ... 143 (HI) 1 JV APPENDICES. 38. Lieutenant Ixickwood's orders for journey to Thank God Harl)or 144 39. Lieutenant Lockwood'i report on journey ordered in Appendix No. 38 . 144 40. English records obtained at Thank Gud Harltor .. . 149 41. Dr. Pavy's orders to carry provisions to Greenland coast 156 43. Dr. Pavy's report on journey ordered in Appendix No. 41 156 43. Sergeant Brainard's orden to move boat to Greenland coast 158 44. Sergeant Brainard's report on trip ordered in Appendix No. 43 . 159 45. Sergeant Jewell's report on trip to Lincoln Bay while supporting Dr. Pavy 163 46. Dr. Pavy's orders for journey northward over Polar Ocean 165 47. Dr. Pavy's report on journey ordered in Appendix No. 46 166 48. Sergeant Rice's report on detached trip from Lincoln Bay to Fort Conger and return 178 49. Private Long's re|K>rt on trip into Archer Fiord - 179 50. Sergeant Israel's report on trip into the Bellows 181 51. Lieutenant Lockwood's orders to explore north coast of Greenland i8a 52. Supplementary instructions for exploration of north coast of Greenland 183 53. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on exploration of north coast of GreenLind . 185 54. Report of Private Biederbick's trip into Black Rock Vale . 233 55. Sergeant Linn's report of trip into Black Rock Vale — 233 5O. Lieutenant Lockwood's report of launch trip up Archer Fiord .. 234 57. Lieutenant Lockwootl's report of launch trip up Chandler Fiord 236 58. Dr. Pavy's orders to proceed to Carl Ritter Bay 237 59. Sergeant Elison's reiwrt of trip to Carl Ritter Bay 237 60. Sergeant Brainard's report of trip to Carl Ritter Bay 239 61. Orders establishing day of "Thanksgiving" 242 62. Dr. Pavy's letter of March 8, 1883 242 63. Lieutenant Grecly's answer to Dr. Pavy's letter of March 8, 1883 243 64. Lieutenant Lockwood's orders for preliminary journey northward, 1883 243 65. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on journey ordered in Appendix No. 64 244 66. Sergeant Jewell's report to Lieutenant Lockwood relative to journey ordered in Apjiendix No. 64 246 67. Orders to Lieuten-int Lockwood for exploration of Greenland, 1883 247 68. Sergeant Rice's orders for journey to Thank God Harbor 248 69. Dr. Pavy's orders for journey, as surgeon, to Thank God Harbor 248 70. Lieutenant Lockwood's rejxjrt on trip to North Greenland . 249 71. Sergeant Jewell's report on tidal and meteorological observations made on trip to North Greenland 255 72. .Sergeant Rice's report on trip to Thank God Harbor 259 73. Dr. Pavy's medical rejiort on trip to Thank God Harbor ... 264 74. Orders for Sergeant Jewell for tidal observations at Cape Beechey . 264 75. Rejiort of Sergeant Jewell on tidal observations at Cape Beechey ... 264 76. Orders for Sergeant Gardiner for tidal observations at Cape Baird , 265 77. Orders for Sergeant Israel for astronomical observations at Cape Baird ,. 266 78. Report of Sergeant Israel on observations ordered in Appendix No. 77 266 79. Rcixjrt of Sergeant Gardiner on tidal and ice observations at Cai)e Baird 268 80. RejKirt of Sergeant Jewell on paleocrystic ice . 268 81. Orders to Sergeant Jewell for tidal observations at Cape Beechey . , . . 269 82. Report of Sergeant Jewell on tidal observations at Ch\k Beechey 269 83. Sergeant Brainard's report on journey to Cape Cracroft 270 84. Sergeant Gardiner's report on journey to Cape Cracroft 272 85. Lieutenant Lockwood's orders to cross Grinnell Land . 274 86. Lieutenant Ix)ckwood's report on the crossing of Grinnell Land 274 87. Orders to Dr. Pavy relative to natural history data . 297 88. Orders to Dr. Pavy relative to botanical specimens 297 89. Orders to Lieutenant Lockwood to relieve Dr. Pavy as naturalist 298 90. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on natural history specimens received from Dr. Pavy 298 9 1 . Lieutenant Lockwood's letter and report on natural history specimens, June 30, 1 883 300 92. Sergeant Brainard's report on Lieute.iant Lockwood's trip towards the United States Mountain range 317 93. Orders to Lieutenant Lockwood to receive medical stores from Dr. Pavy 319 94. Letter of Dr. Pavy asking the detail of Steward Biederbick 320 95. Reply of Lieutenant Greely to Dr. Pavy's request for detail of Steward Biederbick 320 96. Letter of Dr. Pavy's, dated July 18, 1883 320 97. Answer to letter referred to in Appendix No. 96 . . . . . . 321 98. Dr. Pavy's refusal to turn over his diary . „ . . ...... -...........-., ...,,.... 321 i APPENDICES. Pao- 99. Letter tniumiiting chargcx to Dr. P«vy 3JI 100. Letter limiting br. Pavy's bounili while in arrest 333 101. Order for the abandonment of station at Fort Conger... 333 loj. List of lubsistence stores abandoned - 333 103. Medical reports . .... — . 334 104. Record left at Cape Baird 350 105. Records left in abandoned boats ........ ..................... 3$l 106. Records found on Urevoort Island (deposited by Lieutenant Uarlington and Trivate Beebe) 351 107. Plan of winter quarters, Camp Clay I'acc jiage 354 108. Sergeant Frederick's report of November journey to Cape Isabella........ 354 109. Lieutenant Kislingbury's letter, February I9, 1884...... ...... . . 356 no. Private Long's journey into Hayes Sound . . . 357 111. Sergeant Frederick's report of journey to Baird Inlet, April, 1884 . 358 112. Lieutenant Kislingbury's letter, April 22, 1884 361 113. Letter of Dr. Pavy's, April 25, 1884 361 114. Letter of Dr. Pavy, April 27, 1884 _ 36a 115. Lieutenant Greely's certificate to Dr. Pavy . 363 Ik6. General certificate to Dr. Pavy 363 117. Letter of Lieutenant Greely on Dr. Pavy . 363 118. Order for Private Henry's execution . 363 119. Report of Private Henry's execution. . 363 120. Letter of Secretary of War approving Lieutenant Greely's course regarding execution of PrivaK Henry 364 131. List of deaths 365 122. Order relative to Private Henry, dated June 5, 1884 365 123. Lieutenant Lockwood's journal from August 3, 1883 366 124. Sergeant Brainard's journal from besetment 441 135. Portion of diary of Private Roderick R. Schneider, found on bank of Mississippi River, in Missouri, and corre- spondence relating thereto with Mr. J. A. Ockerson 529 126. Description of drift-wood 534 1 27. List of photographs and description of Eskimo relics in photographic plates 535 128. List of maps and charts . . 536 Index to Vol. I... 537 ILLUSTRATIONS. (Volume I.) FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS, (Engraved by the Moss Engraving Company from photographs by Svrgt. (ieorge W. Rice, photographer of the Expedition.) Our house at G>nger (west side), March, 1882 Frontispiece. Face page. Godhavn, Greenland, July 19, 1881 -. 1 Ritenbenk, Greenland, July 21, 1881 2 Proven, North Greenland, July, 1881.. 4 IJanish Eskimo at Proven, North Greenland 4 Site of Polaris House, occupied in 1872, at Life Boat Cove, July, 1881 6 Proteus in ice, entrance to Discovery Harbor, August 12, l88r._ 6 Musk-cattle killed on Ml. Cartmel, near Conger, August 12, 1881 8 Head of musk-ox killed near Conger 8 Coal mine. Water-course Ravine, with reflected image 12 View of ice from Cape Murchison, looking towards Thank God Harbor, June, 1882 29 Musk calves, October, 1882. Captured near Conger, June, 1882. Uy Seigeant Frederick 30 Floeberg in St. Patrick Bay, June, 1882 44 Pressed-up Floelierg, Breakwater Point, I^dy Franklin Hay, June, 1 882 : - - 44 Chandler Fiord, looking westward; Ida Bay to extreme left 236 l*aleocrystic ice in Robeson Channel 246 Tide-gauge at Cape Baird (from a sketch by Sergeant Gardiner) 268 Eskimo relics found in vicinity of Fort Conger. PI. I 536 Eskimo relics found at junction of Lake Hazen and Ruggles River, June, 1882. PI. II 536 Eskimo relics found at and in vicinity of Basil Norris and Sun Bays. Pi. HI 536 Eskimo relics; greater number found south side of Lake Hazen, June, 1882. PI. IV . 536 Eskimo relics found at Cape Baird. PI. V 536 Modem Greenland and ancient Eskimo sled. PI. VI 536 Arctic Highlander from Cape York (from a photograph by Relief Expedition) 536 Arctic Highlanders from North Star Settlement, Saunders Island (from a photograph by Relief Expedition) 536 ILLUSTRATIONS GROUPED IN PLATES. (Engraved by the Moss Engraving Company from sketches by Lieut. James B. Lockwood.) Pl. I. — Cape Britannia 188 Victoria Inlet, from near Cape Britannia . . 188 >v Beaumont Island, from near Cape Britannia 188 Stephenson Island, from Cape Britannia . 188 Beaumont Island, from Cape Britannia... . 188 Pl. IL — Elison Island _ 188 View looking into Chipp Inlet , . 188 Cape Alexander Ram'ay . ... 188 Shoe [Mary Murray] Island ....... 188 Farthest Point beyond [to the east] Shoe [Mary Murray] Island .......,.,..._...,,....... 188 (VIM VIIT Plate 1 1 Fig. I. Fic. 2. Fic. 3- Plate II : FU!. 4- Fic 5- Fic 6. Plate III: Fic 7. Fkj. 8. Fic 9- Fin. lO. Plate IV: Fic II. Fic 12. Fic 13- Fig. 14. ILLUSTRATIONS. Vim page. Face of glacier above Emma Bay (from tent), April 30, 1883 278 Flank view of same, from southeast comer, May i, 1883 .. 278 M»rckwood Island and return ; also showing the route of preliminary journey in March 186 Chart showing excursion of steam-launch La<(i' Greely during the summer of 1882 236 Chart showing route of sledge expedition, March 27 to April 12, 1883 . 253 Map of Grinnell Land ... . At end of volume. J ' t THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. REPORT OF THH COMMANDING OFPICI-R. Washington, D. C, ///«<• 30, 1885. The Chief Signal Officer of the Army: Sir: I have the honor to make the following report of the proceediujjs of the Lady Franklin Bay expedition, which I had the honor to command: The station on the shore of Lady Franklin Bay was established for work of scientific observations and exploration, inider the provisions of the acts . '" Congress approved May i, 1880, and March 3, i88r. In its scientific work it formed one of the circnmpolar international stations, which grew out of the exertions of Lieut. Cliarles Weyprecht, Austrian Navy, and which were finally determined upon by the International Polar Conferences of Hamburg, Berne, and St. Petersburg. Eleven nations participated in this great work, and fourteen stations were occupied, three of which were in the southern hemisphere. I was assigned to the connnand of the Lady Franklin Bay expedition by the Honorable the Secretary of War, March 11, 1881, in accordance with the instructions of the President. (Appendix No. i.) The formal order under which was organized the expedition to establish the station, was General Orders No. 35, War Department, A. O. O., April 12, 1881. (Ap- pendix No. 2.) In accordance with that order the steam sealer Proteus, having been inspected and favorably reported on by Lieut. J. F. Merry, U. S. N. , was hired for the transportation of the party from St. John's, Newfoundland, to Lady Franklin Bay. Second Lieut. Frederick F. Kislingbury, Eleventh Infantry, and Second Lieut. James B. Lockwood, Twenty-third Infantry, were detailed for duty with the expedition, and twenty-one enlisted men, who were either selected volunteers from the Army, or specially enlisted, were also ordered to report to me. The surgeon. Octave Pavy, M. D., who had been contracted with for a similar expedi- tion in 1880, was to join the party in Greenland. Lieutenant Kislingbury with two enlisted men sailed from New York about June i, 1881, to superintend the proper .stowing of the cargo, which wa.s to be done in accordance with special instructions given him by me. Lieutenant Lockwood sailed from Baltimore June 14, 1881, in charge of the greater number of the party, taking with him the steam-launch which had been kindly furnished the expedition through the courtesy of the Honorable the Secretary of the Navy. I sailed with the scientific observers on June 21 from New York, and the entire party assembled at St. John's, Newfoundland, June 27, except Sergeant Rice, the photographer, who, having been sent through Canada with the expectation of obtaining additional foot-gear for the expedition, was delayed until July 2. On July 4 the party took quarters on board the Proteus, which dropped her anchor in the harbor awaiting certain necessary stores. 1 n THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. The expedition at that time consisted of the officers and men named in Appendix No. 3, except Private Roderick R. Schneider, who replaced Corporal Grimm, a deserter. The general scientific and other instnictions for the pariv are to be found in the same appendix (No. 3). Ample field supplies and medical stores had been furnished by the Surgeon-General, and a stock of regixlation clothing and camp equipage through the Quartermaster-General. A liberal and excellent supply of arms and ammunition, both service and special, was provided through the courtesy of the Chief of Ordnance. The Chief of Engineers furnished such scientific instruments as he could spare, and these were supplemented to a certain extent by loans from the Superintendent of the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey. Subsistence stores, well packed and of excellent quality, were furnished for .sale by the Commissary- General of Subsistence. These connnissary stores were furnished under the supervision of Maj. John P. Hawkins, in accordance with the special instructions of the Comniissar>'-General of Subsistence, and I have deemed it my duty to submit in Appendix No. 4 a list of the articles, with comments on their quality and condition. Less than $6,000 of the original appropriation remained after the charter of the vessel, with which to supplement the supplies of the expedition with articles indispensable for Arctic service, which were not within the province of the regular supply departments of the Army. ^ While the stxni was insufficient to provide the articles requisite for complete comfort and sat- isfaction, yet careful consideration and rigid economy enabled me to purcha.se everything absolutely essential to health and success. Boats, total supply of coal, spirits, and lime-juice formed no inconsiderable part of these indispensable purchases. The expeditionary supplies were in almost inextricable confusion on my arrival at St. John's, and to have re-.stowed them would have entailed an expense of money and time which could not be spared. It was also a.scertained beyond a doubt, that the boiler of the navy launch was entirely unsuited to use in salt water, and it became necessary to replace it at St. John's, at the expeditionary expense, by a boiler of another pattern. During our enforced stay at St. John's, this expedition, like its predecessors, was indebted for valuable a.ssistance and advice to Mr. Thomas N. Molloy, United States consul. The last stores came on the morning of July 7, and at noon we pa.ssed the narrows of St. John's, to remain for three years without direct communication from the outside world. The harbor of Godhavn, Greenland, was reached 9 p. m. July 16. The voyage was made in the face of continual adverse winds, with cloudy or foggy weather. Two strong northerly gales were experienced, during which the ship behaved admirably. No ice was .seen south of Cape Farewell, except a few icebergs off the east coast of Newfoundland to the north of Funk Island. A thin pack of stream ice was fallen in with off the Greenland coast the evening of July 12, in 61° 30' N., 53° 30' W., and was passed through in about four hours. A second |)ack was met with the next day in 62° 30' N., 53° 15' W., and was passed through in an hour. Neither stream of ice offered atiy obstruction to free passage, or caused the slightest delay. Both packs consisted of ice-floes varying from one to eiglit feet above the water. These floes originall\- formed part of the Spitzbergen Ice Stream, a portion of which, after reaching Cape Farewell from the east coast of Greenland, is carried by the southerly current into Davis Strait. Along the lower Greenland coast only occasionally icebergs were seen, but in Disco Bay over a hundred were in sight at one time. The expedition received at (iodhavn official and personal courtesies from Herr Krarup Smith, royal inspector of North Greenland. He delayed for a day his departure on an official inspecting toiir to Proven and Upernivik, in order to ascertain what he could do for tlie expe- dition. Hcpromi.sed all possible aid and assistance from the other Danish officials. I learned from him that the winter of i88o-'8i, except a brief period of cold in March, had been one of marked and unusual mildness in Greenland. It o — 3 ^ §? THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. The expedition procured at Godhavn twelve dogs and a large quantity of dog-food and some seal-skins. A auantity of mattak (the skin of the white whale, a valuable anti-scorbutic) and a few articles of fur-clothing were obtained by barter — the only possible manner. The wife of Inspector Smith and Mr. Fleischer, the chief trader at Godhavn, were of material assistance in this matter. The remains of the house purchased in 1880, which was stored at this point, were taken on board, as also some 3,000 pounds of Hudson Bay pemmican, which had been placed at my disposal by H. W. Howgate. One set of time observations were obtained at the only hours during which the sun shone while the vessel was at Godhavn. On July 20, Dr. Octave Pavy, having reported, was contracted with as acting assistant surgeon of the expedition. The usual courtesies were shown the expedition at Godhavn and other Greenland ports. The Proteus left Godhavn the morning of the 21st and reached Ritenbenk, Greenland, the same day. At this point nine dogs, dog-food, seal-skins, and other minor articles, which had been collected for the expedition through the energetic efforts of Dr. Pavy, were pur- chased. Here also Mr. Henry Clay joined the expedition, in the position of Signal Service employ^. A fog delaying our departure. Lieutenant Lockwood, with a party, was sent for birds to Arveprins Island, near by, where he obtained sixty-five guillemot {Alca arra). The spring of 1881 at Ritenbenk had been the most forward one for years. The Proteus left Ritenbenk the afternoon of July 22, and, passing through Waigat Strait, anchored on the 24th at Upernivik, having been delayed by fog nearly ten hours just off the harbor. To my disappointment, skin-clothing could not be obtained at Upernivik, except by a delay of ten days or two weeks. Fortunately, ten suits which had been made by order of the Danish Government for the use of the observers of the proposed international station at Upernivik, in i882-'83, were on hand, and were purchased through the intervention of Inspector Smith. The two Eskimo who were recommended for service with the expedition were living at Proven, some fifty miles to the south, and in consequence it was necessary to put the steam-launch Lady Greely into the water for the trip. A severe storm prevented her immediate departure; but before it had entirely abated, Lieutenant Lockwood started southward on the 24th, taking a circuitous route next the mainland and inside the many islands, in consequence of the heavy weather. He was accompanied by Mr. Elberg, the chief trader of Upernivik, in whose district Proven was situated. On the 24th and 25th, Lieutenant Kislingbury, with a party, was sent in the whale-boat to the loomery near Sanderson's Hope. They obtained four hundred and twenty guillemot which were dried for use at Discovery Harbor. Lieutenant Lockwood returned on the 28th from Proven, bringing back, for service with the expedition, two Eskimo, Jens Edward and Frederik Thorlip Christiansen. They were formally contracted with the same day. He reported that the launch behaved admirably, both as a sea-boat and when under steam. He killed one hundred and twenty-seven guillemot during his trip. He also succeeded in securing a considerable quantity of skin-clothing, part of which, though second hand, was very serviceable. Sergeant Rice accompanied the party to Proven and made several negatives at that point. Fortunately for the interests of the expedition, Inspector Smith was again met with at Upernivik, and it was through his marked interest and kindly influence that the service of the natives and so good a stock of all needed articles were secured. He informed me that the winter of i88o-'8i at Upernivik had been very mild, and the spring a very forward one; in fourteen years Upernivik had never been so green. Reports from Tasiusak were to the effect that the ice had broken up very early and had entirely disappeared. 4 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. Ten dogs, addUional dog-food, sledge-fittings, dog-harness, and seal-skins were bonglit from Mr. Rlberg, at Upernivik. The dogs so pnrchased proved to be diseased, and through contagion from them two-thirds of our draught animals eventually died. At 7 p. m., July 29, the pilot was discharged about three miles west of Upernivik. After running northward a few hours, I decided to take the "Middle Passage" across Melville Bay, as there was no ice in sight except a few .scattered berg.s. Land was sighted at 4 a. ni. of the 31st, and at 7 a. m. the engines were stopped, as the dead reckoning placed the ves.sel six miles south of Cape York. Dense fog prevented any land from being .seen until an hour later, when, the fog lifting a few minutes, land was found to be about five miles distant. Nothing in the shape of a pack was encountered in Baffin Bay, but in alwni 75° N., 64° \V., ice was seen a considerable distance to the westward, but whether it was a close or open pack was uncertain. Of all favorable passages across Melville Bay, this is the most remarkable; but thirty-six hours from Upernivik to Cape York. The y1/rr/ ran acro.ss in seventy-two hours, the Polaris in forty hours (from Tasiu.sak), and the veteran whaler, Capt. William Adams, in 1873, as early as June 9, crossed in seventy-two hours. Though the Middle Pack is much feared by the most experienced navigators, yet its terrors have been much diminished since the use of steam. There seems to be but little doubt it can be pa.s.sed without trouble alnmst any year late in July or August. The wlialers passing Melville Bay in June necessarily follow the land ice. A polar bear {Urstis maritimus) and a seal {Phoca barhatd) were killed on small detached floes in Baffin Bay. The vessel lay-to July 31 on account of foggj- weather. Several soundings and serial temperature observations were made, which, together with others made during the journey north, form Appendix No. 104. AUGUST, 1881. The fog lifted the iflorning of August i, at which time wc were off Petowik Glacier, .southeast of Cape Atholl. Along these shores were small patches of snow, of a dirty reddish color, which were without doubt the reddish snow of the "Crimson cliffs" of Sir John Ross. We took a course westward from Wolstenholnie Island, and sighted the Cary group at 3. 10 p. m. A party landed on the southeast island at 6 p. m. to examine the cache made by Sir George Nares in 1875. With Lieutenant Lockwood, I examined the provisions, and found them in generally good condition, except a certain portion of the bread, which was eatable, though somewhat moldy. The whale-boat was in serviceable condition. The cache evi- dently had not been disturbed since it was landed, six years before. At the same time. Dr. Pavy obtained from a cairn on the summit of the island a record left by Sir Allen Young in i875-'76. A copy of the records obtained and left form Appendix No. 5. Sergeant Rice, with considerable difficulty, obtained a photograph of the cairn, which is at the very summit of the island, some five hundred feet above the sea. On the island was found a worn oar and a number of other pieces of drift-wood, among which was a charred piece of ornamental work (possibly of the figure-head) of a ship which had been burned. The whaler Xanthns was burned about five miles north of Tasiusak in 1880. If, as is probable, this was from the Xanthus^ it is interesting as showing a southeast surface current to extend occasionally that far to the north. Such a current from the southea.st was experienced by us all day of July 31 off the coast, near Cape Dudley Digges. This fragment was of an old vessel, as the original red and yellow paint had been afterwards overlaid with a coat of white. Cape Alexander was passed about 10 a. m. of the 2d, and at i p. m. we anchored south of Littleton Island. A careful and exhaustive search was made by me for seven hours, before •v % m 3 d 3 ~ " O ■a 53 3 w " s: •o ■/ i;i!liiBli;iiiii3!.:im!l'l. n 3 -I 3 _ 4 ^ f THE LADY FRANKMN BAY EXPEDITION. ' 5 the Arctic mail on IJttlctoii Islam), landed by Sir Allen Yonnjj, in 1H76, for the Kn^lish exjje- dition, was fonml. The seven packages of mail were later sent back by the l^olcus^ to Ik* returned throngh the proper channels to ilie Admiraltv in I/<•, Capt. J. B. Walker, dated June 20, 1876. The cairn erected by Sir (Icorjje Nares was found open and empty, and had probably Ix'cn plundered by the Eskimo, as part of the London Standard^ of an unknown date in 1875, was fonnd by me in the snow on the west side of the island. While I was engaged in searching for the mail, Lieutenant I,Kx:kwood with a party landed over six tons of coal as a depot for fuel for possible future use. It was on low grotmd alxiut twenty feet above the sea, on the extreme southwest side of Littleton Island, in sight of Cape Alexander. Lieutenant Kislingbury, with Dr. Pavyand a party, visited Life Boat Cove to communicate with the Etah Eskimo, if any could be found, and to examine the Polaris winter qttarters of i872-'73. The transit instrument was fonnd alwut twenty feet from the cairn in which it was originally deposited. Nothing remained of Ihlan's house, but the ground was covered with various articles of iron and other metals, which are well shown by the photographs taken by Sergeant Rice, who also made several other negatives in the neighlwrhood. Lieutenant Kislingbury's report forms Appendix No. 6. None of the Eskimo had lx:cn .seen in our northward journey, although a close watch had been kept on the coast from Cape Dudley Digges to Wolstenholine Island, and from Cape Chalon north. It was evident that none had lived at Life Boat Cove within the year, and probably not within three or four years. The wheel of the I^otcus needed some repairs and delayed us until 1 1 p. m. of August 2. The weather on leaving was fair with no ice in sight, and in consequence I did not dare to sjjend time for the examination of the two hundred and forty rations at Cape Sabine, but ordered the captain to make direct for Cape Hawks, which was reached 9 a. m. August 3. The /Vfl/*7/j lay-to just north of Cape Hawks, while I with Lieutenant Kislingbury exam- ined the English depot of 1875, and sent Lieutenant Lockwood and Dr. Pavy to Washington Irving Island. The jolly-boat was found in good condition, and was taken by me, as I was short of boats. It was named the Valorous^ from H. M. ship to which it originally belonged. Two barrels of pickles, two barrels of stearine, a barrel of preserved potatoes, and two kegs partly full of rum were found in excellent condition. There was a large quantity of bread, some of which had evidently moulded owing to the casks being left in a depression of the rock where melting snow collected in summer. Three cans of potatoes and a keg of piccalilli, and the part of keg of rum were taken, and the remaining stores were placed in the best possible condition to resist the weather. Sergeant Rice made several photographs of the surrounding country during our brief stay. Lieutenant Lockwood found oti Washington Irving Island Sir George Nares' record of i875-'76, which with his own notice forms Appendix No. 7. Cape Hawks was left at 11 a. m., and at 3 p. m. Cape Frazer was passed. Washington Land was sighted at 4 p. m. through the fog, which had just set in. To this time no pack had been seen, and Kane Basin was evidently freer from ice than Baffin Bay. Only a few rotten floes of very limited extent were at any time visible. The only paleocrystic floe-bergs seen were four large ones near Cape Frazer. The eightieth parallel was cro.ssed at 5 p. m., and half an hour later the vessel was abreast of Cape Collinson ; but increasing fogginess deterred me from examining the sledge rations there, for fear of serious delay in my northward progress. Scoresby Bay was filled with harbor ice, apparently unbroken that year, and already a fringe of new ice extended out- ward a mile or more into the sea. The dense fog retarded our progress considerably, and !! i 6 THE LADY FBANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. about lo p. 111. it was necessary to lay-to until the morning of August 4. About 10 a. m. we obtained a sounding some eight miles southwest of P*ranklin Island, with no bottom at one hun- dred and thirty fathoms. Carl Ritter Bay was reached at 2 p. m., and a small depot of about two hundred and tweuty-fi\e rations of bread and meat were cached on the extreme northern shore of the bay. Cape Lieber was iieared, and a heavy pack against the land was passed by a detour to the eastward. At 9 p. m. August 4 the vessel was stopped for the first time by the ice in the extreme southeastern part of Lady F'ranklin Bay, only eight miles from our destination. The pack was a very heavy one, extending in a semicircle from Cape^ Baird to the Greenland coast, near the mouth of Peterinann Fiord. It consisted of paleocrystic floes ranging from twenty to fifty feet in thickness, which were cemented together by harbor ice from two to five feet thick. The Proteus was made fast to the southern edge of the pack to await further movements of the ice. On the 5th the cliffs of Cape Lieber were thoroughly examined by Lieutenant Lockwood, Dr. Pavy, and myself, and a cairn was erected on the highest peak. No signs of a previous cairn or any other indications of an earlier visit were noted. From the summit of Cape Lieber the ice to the northward, in Hall Basin and Robeson Channel, was seen to be heavy and almost continuous. During the 6th, 7th, and 8th of August it was found neces.sary to frequently change the position of the vessel in order to avoid besetment, but every opportunity was improved to hold as much ground as possible. Immeiise fields of ice passed southward during this time. On the 8tli a nip appeared probable, as the fields driven to the south packed together and formed a wide barrier, which apparently caught between Hans Island and the Grinnell Land coast. A strong north wind at the same time was forcing immense quantities of ice south- ward from Hall Basin. Preparations were made for a nip and the screw and rudder made ready to be unshipped instantly. The condition of the ice improved, however, at the turn of the tide, but the vessel was forced slowly southward to withiu some five miles of Hans Island, having lost about forty-five miles of latitude. A southwesterly gale with snow set in on the lotli, which continued during the nth, starting the whole pack to the northward. When the snow cleared on the morning of the nth, open water was visible along the west coast as far northward as the eye could reach. At 7.30 a. m. we ran to the northward, and by 2.30 p. 111. had crossed Lady Franklin Bay without detention from the ice. Water-course Bay was entirely filled with pack-ice, jammed against the shore, which extended to the southward, but a narrow lane of water between Distant Cape and Bellot Island permitted the vessel to enter Discovery Harbor, where she was moored to the ice inside Dutch Island. Fast harbor-ice about eighteen inches thick covered Discovery Harbor, as well as the western l:alf of Lady Franklin Bay. Lieutenant Lockwood was sent to examine Water-counse Bay and the coal seam, while I visited the winter quarters of H. M. vS. Disanrry. The records found by me form Appendix No. 8. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on Water-course Bay forms Appendix No. 9. He considered the place an excellent one for the station, and reported that the bay, which was evidently a shallow one, was partly clear of ice, and that a vessel could probably approach within some two hundred yards of the shore. The situation of the bay was such that, while discharging, a vessel would necessarily be unprotected against the moving pack, 'r conse- quence I decided to establish the station at "Discovery" winter quarters. The decision was a wi.se one, for Dr. Pav\', from ground overlooking Water-course Bay, found it full of pack- ice on the I3tli. Immediately on landing we succeeded in killing fourteen niusk-cattle, which furni.shed an excellent and abundant supply of fresh meat for the first winter. On the 1 2th the Proteus broke her 'v.^y through nearly two miles of heavy ice, and anchored on the holding ground of H. M. S. Discovery, within one hundred yards of the post' 6 i f ^ -i n V. o 3 office caii stores, dred and Conger iu| On his intentj Clay, witll tion was tl a regular destructivl siibordinal consideratl cotninande relieved ii such proc( Thes to return i Tofa( formally d thought c( and took ii The/ which late to anchora Harbor, n< Lieutenant on the moi impossible cessful unt to return t On At lations, rec to the Chi( leaving tin notified th own reque to report t no duty, a police regi officer of t Lockwood by the exi times con comfort ar 12, 13, an< Byal occupied ( The genei field worV route for i THB LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. office cairn of Captain Stephenson. The party was divided into gangs for unloading the stores. The general cargo was discharged in sixty hours by 4 a. m. of the 14th, and one hun- dred and forty tons of coal were landed by the evening of the i8th. The station was named Conger in honor of Senator Omar D. Conger, who had taken a deep interest in the expedition. On August 14, my surgeon, first through an officer and later personally, expressed to me his intention of breaking his formal contract and leaving the expedition unless Mr. Henry Clay, with whom he had quarreled, should be ordered from duty with the party. The situa- tion was trying in the extreme. If on one hand it seemed quite impossible to face without a regular doctor two years' isolated, Arctic service, it would on the other hand certainly be destructive to discipline and success if the commandingofficer thus yielded to^iictation from his subordinate. Dr. Pavy was immediately informed that such threat could receive neither consideration nor concession, but that he must submit to the judgment and decision of his commander. Dr. Pavy yielded. Mr. Clay, unaware of the question, later requested to be relieved in order to promote harmony; and I so ordered, having in my mind determined that such procedure was necessary, on the same grounds as actuated Mr. Clay's request. The surgeon reporting Corporal Starr as unfitted for stay, owing to asthma, he was ordered to return in the Proteus. To facilitate the departure of the vessel, and at the eu.nest request of her captain, she was formally discharged at 6 p. m., August 18, although our coal was ten tons short, which ^ras thought could be obtained from the adjacent mine. The expeditionary force landed at 7 p. m. and took up temporary quarters in tents. The Proteus left her anchorage about 5 a. m., August 19, but being stopped by heavy ice, which late southerly winds had accumulated at the northern entrance of the harbor, returned to anchorage off Proteus Point. This name was given to a point off the east shore of Discovery Harbor, nearly midway between our station and Dutch Island. The steam-launch under Lieutenant Lockwood's command attempted to follow the /Vo/«/j when she left her anchorage on the morning of the 19th, but, owing to the heavy floes, found it not only dangerous but impossible to do so. The Proteus made several attempts to leave the harbor but was unsuc- cessful until the evening of the 26th. Private Ryan was sent on board the 22d, under orders to return to Washington, on account of an epileptic attack. On August 26, Second Lieut. F. F. Kislingbury, dissatisfied with the expeditionary regu- lations, requested to be relieved. He was immediately relieved and ordered to report in person to the Chief Signal Officer. The Proteus got under way just as Lieutenant Kislingbury was leaving the station to board her, and he was consequently obliged to return. He was at first notified that he would be regarded as awaiting orders at the station, but subsequently, at his own request, the order was so modified as to consider him awaiting transportation in order to report to the Chief Signal Officer of the Army. He remained at Fort Conger perfonning no duty, and no further requirements were made of him than that he should conform to the police regulations of the station. At no time did he ever request to be returned to duty as an officer of the expedition, and his assignment to duty on April 9, 1884, at the time of Lieutenant Lockwood's death, was made on my own responsibility, as being required by propriety, if not by the exigencies of the service. It may here be said that Lieutenant Kislingbury at various times contributed by his skill and assiduity as a hunter to our stock of game, and thus to our comfort and health. The orders and correspondence in his case form Appendices Nos. 10, 11, 12, 13, and 14. By almost incessant work the house was covered in so that the cook-room could be occupied on the 21st, and by August 31, although not comfortable, the house was habitable. The general stores having been secured and the house well advanced, attention was turned to field work. Lieutenant Lockwood started with two men on the 29th to ascertain the best route for inland travel to and around St. Patrick Bay. He returned on the following day 8 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. having killed a musk-ox during his absence, and also frozen (fortunately only superficially) his foot. St. Patrick Bay was found to be fringed on its southern shores with precipitous cliffs, at the head of and overlooking the bay, of about nine hundred feet elevation, which could be passed only with great difficulty. His report fornv'^ Appendix No. 15. Acting Assi.stant Surgeon O. Pavy and Sergeant Rice, the photographer of the expedition, having volunteered their services for an overland trip, were sent northward August 29, with instructions to proceed as far as practicable towards Cape Joseph Henry, and .search for traces oi i)\c Jcannclte. Lack of snow forbidding sledges, and heavy running ice the use of boats, they were obliged to carry food, bedding, etc., on their persons. Sufficient provisions were taken to last as far as the English depot at Lincoln Bay, where they could be renewed. Sergeants Ralston and Linn accompanied them one day's journey, hauling supplies on a wheeled conveyance to form depot A at the most convenient place, which proved to be the top of the precipitous cliffs overlooking St. Patrick Bay. Visiting Dutch Island the 30th and finding that Robeson Channel was clearing of ice, I decided to attempt the establishing by boat of a depot to the northward. Stores and a whale- boat were hauled over the ice to Dutch Island, and on the 31st Sergeant Brainard and five men left with stores for depot B. Instructions did not permit them to proceed farther north than Cape Beechey. If threatened seriously by ice, the boat was to be secured above tide-water and the party return on foot to the station. Sergeant Brainard was sent in command of this party owing to Lieutenant Lockwood's temporary disability from frost-bite. During the month one ptarmigan, a hare, and sixteen musk-cattle were killed. On the 23d a permanent bench-mark was established, in order that any subsequent expedition could determine any elevation or depression of the land which might meanwhile occur. The earth was excavated several inches below permanent frost, and a brick pier set in cement was erected. A bar of iron, half an inch square, projected two inches above the brick pier, into which it was firmly set. Its top is 24.5 feet [7.5'"] above mean .sea-level ; it has a mark (xx) on its south (true) side. A temporary tide-gauge was erected on the rSth, and a permanent one on the 23d, from which latter date hourly readings were made. Hourly meteorological observations were discontinued on the Proteus at 12 p. m. August 18, and commenced on shore an hour later. These readings gave a mean pressure(8th to 31st) of 29.842, and a mean temperature (5th to 31st) of 33.30° [.7° C.]. Extremes of 45.9° [7.7° C] and 15.6° [—9.1° C] were noted; the latter being the lowest August temperature on record, until exceeded during our retreat. in 1883. By the morning of September i the entire harbor was frozen over, and the young ice was 4->^ inches thick. The health of the command at the end of the month was excellent. SEPTEMBER, 1881. Sergeant Brainard returned with his party on the 3d, having walked overland from the foot of Motmt Beaufort, near Cape Beechey, where depot B had been established. The inci- dents of his journey were as follows : Leaving Dutch Island the forenoon of August 31, the boat had experienced mtich difficulty from young ice. After incurring imminent danger from large moving floes, they reached Cape Beechey, but were obliged by the difficult ice-foot to land four miles below the cape, where heavy ice came down as they were unloading. Drawing up the boat and pitching the tent, they waited thirty-six hours for an opportunity of returning by boat. Finding that the ice remained packed, they .secured everything and returned to the station across a very rough country, passing St. Patrick Bay over the new ice. The detailed report of Sergeant Brainard, together with that of Sergeant Jewell, forms Appendices 16 and 17. I ■ i: 1 I ■ I H r ^ c s r n ,1 IT. ...-I', t' 1; II ■'^m.i Ml !1 fMm :.'l||#l,,r/ M 'l/K'!''!li!'^'>!i:' I"::; a 111 i :"il'H.'iiiffl 3 " 3 ^ o C. S r 3 2 n c c m 71 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. 9 Sergeant Ciardiner and Corporal Salor were sent tlie Otli to examine how far westward from Cape Murchison the foot-hills of St. Patrick Hay were practicable for loaded sledjjes. They reported the ronte possible on land, only a mile beyond and northwest of Cape Mnrchison, where precipitous cliffs, at the month of and overlookinjj St. Patrick Hay, would necessarily cause any .sledge party to take the ice-foot or main pack. They found an eight-man sledge, a pickax, a cooking-lamp, and a twelve-foot cedar boat, with paddles. Only slight repairs were needed to make the boat serviceable. Hoat and sledges were evidently abandoned by sledging j)arty from H. M. S. Discovery^ in 1876. Sergeant (iardiner's detailed report of this journey forms Appendix No. 18. September 7, Sergeant Linn was sent with a small party to remove depot A from the cliffs overlooking St. Patrick Hay to a point in the .southeast corner of the bay, where a party traveling north would naturally pass it. It was located a mile northwest of Cajie Murchison. Sergeant Linn found in Water-course Bay a cart left by the Kngli.sh expedition, 1875-76. His report forms Appendix No. 19. September 7, accompanied by three men and taking dog-sledge A)itoinctti\ I started westward to ascertain the condition of the ice in Archer Kiord, to examine the depot which Lieutenant Conybeare, R. N., was believed to have left in Sun Bay, and to gather such infor- mation as would be valuable in case of a sledge trip inland toward the west coast of (irinnell Land. The western shore of the large bay forming the extreme southwestern parts of Dis- covery Harbor was reached that afternoon, and while the party were slaughtering a herd of musk-oxen, I visited alone Sun Bay and Stony Cape. The ice in Archer Fiord, of recent formation, was found in perfect condition for traveling. Searching two hours over rocky points for the depot, and .seriously injuring my knee by a fall among sharp rocks, I was obliged to abandon the search. Two cans, one each of rum and alcohol, were the only articles found. Possibly the rations may have been left in bags and been eaten by animals, a wolf's lair being near. Eleven musk-cattle were killed, the remainder of the herd being spared by my orders, to guard against their extermination. Twelve eider ducks were killed in the southwest part of Discovery Harbor. A considerable quantity of drift-wood, apparently conif- erous, as a rule, was gathered along the shores, some pieces being about three feet in circum- ference. The detailed description forms Appendix No. 126, Dr. Pavy appeared at the station at 4 a. m. September 9, and reported that Sergeant Rice, suffering from an attack of inflammatory rheumatism, had been left that night in the ravine north of St. Patrick Bay, about ten miles from the station. Sergeant Brainard was at once sent to him with needful medicines and provisions, followed by four men with a sled and an improvised stretcher. Five men being unable to bring him up the high, steep cliffs bordering St. Patrick Bay, six others were added to the party, whose united efforts were required for nearly an hour and a half to get him up the cliffs. During their absence a northeasterly gale set in, and the temperature fell to +8° [ — 13.3° C.]. A number of frost-bites resulted, for- tunately none severe. Dr. Pavy had reached Cape Union September 3. He traveled from F'ort Conger across the country, around St. Patrick Bay, striking the coast at Cape Beechey. Following thence the shore as far as Black Cliffs he was compelled by precipitous crags and open water to turn back, and reached Wrangel Bay by a detour inland. From Wrangel Bay to Cape Union the coast had been followed. The English depot at Lincoln Bay was carefully examined. The bread an'd many of the groceries were found to be spoiled. The preserved beef, rum, and stearine were good. Several boxes of meat and potatoes were missing, possibly blown into the"channel by some violent storm. The serviceable groceries were packed in one cask. From Cape Union the Greenland coast was visible. Dr. Pavy said, as far as Cape Britannia. The Polar Ocean was covered with the ordinary pack; no paleocrystic floes, and but few water lanes were seen. In Robeson Channel a water lane, about two miles wide, extended northward 10 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. and southward al(»njj the (iriiinell Land sliore as far as the eye could reach. vSave a few j^ronndcd berjp, no paleocrystic ice was seen at any time. No traces of \.\\k JranutUe were found. Tlie condition of Serj^eant Rice precluded progress beyond Cajx; Union. Having;; broken through the young ice in Wrangel Hay, he had been troubled with rheumatic pains the 3d. On the 4th his joints were .so .swollen that he could not draw on his boots without difficulty. Although suffering with acute rheumatism, he traveled fifty-five out of seventy.-one hours after leaving Lincoln Bay. When reached by the party he could move no limb e.\ccpt by great effort. The severity of his sufferings nuiy be estimated from his losing twenty-four pounds of flesh during his journey. His pluck and endurance, as Dr. Favy rcjnarkcd, were wonderful. He recovered speedily, and on the 19th was again in the field. Dr. Pavy found at the head of Lincoln Bay several .small hunps of coal, but was unable to locate the vein. A fish about seven inches long was .seen in Becchey Lake. A hare was shot, and nine musk-cattle seen during the trip. Dr. Pavy's orders and detailed report form Appendices Nos. 20 and 21. On the loth, reluctantly realizing that winter had come, advantage was taken of a very high tide, augmented by a northerly gale, to haul ihe launch Lady Grccly up on the ice-foot, where, undisturbed, she could securely pa.ss the winter. September 11, Lieutenant Lockwood, with Sergeant Oardine' and Eskin'.o Christiansen, started with dog-sledge to explore the "Bellow.s," a valley Icadiig northwestward from the southwest part of Di.scovery Harbor. Lieutenant Lockwood fo'lowed the valley for about twelve miles beyond the farthest of Lieutenant Archer, R. N. li. the last dozen miles the valley narrowed rapidly, changed its direction to the northward, and apparently terminated in a narrow gorge a mile or two beyond Lieutenant Lockwood's farthest, through which a dis- tant snow-covered mountain was seen. The latter part of his outward journey was on foot, he being compelled, as was Lieutenant Archer, to leave his sledge behind, it being nearly worn out by the sharp, flinty stones with which the bed of the valley was covered. A great deal of lignite coal in small pieces was .seen between Black Cape and Devil's Back, but it could not be found /;/ situ. This coal was evidently seen by Lieutenant Archer, R. N., who "found the bottom of the valley to consist of * * * shingle * * * mi.xed with some hard sut ♦^•>*'ce very much like charcoal." This coal resembled very much in appearance that of thf vein near Water-course Bay. About two and a half miles from Black Cape, at an elevation of nearly one hundred and fifty feet [46'"] above the sea. Lieutenant Lockwood found a piece of knotty pine, three feet long and eight inches in diameter, in the frozen earth. Breaking his hatchet handle in an attempt to cut it out, he was unable to obtain the stick. Two musk-oxen were seen, but in accordance with my orders were not killed. Lieutenant Lockwood's report forms Appendix No, 22. Dr. Pavy, with two men and two dog-sledges, left September 15, with orders to proceed down Archer Fiord and travel overland westward from Mount Neville as far as his provisions would permit. He returned the following day, reporting that the late storm had broken up the new ice in Archer Fiord, and that progress beyond Sun Bay was impracticable. The written report rendered by Dr. Pavy and the orders for his journey form Appendices Nos. 23 and 24. September 16 I started with two men for three days' inland journey towards the United States Mountains, but was myself compelled to return the same day, my knee not having sufficiently recovered from its injury the week previous. A man replacing me, the party con- tinued onwards, but were driven in by a heavy storm the i8th. Sergeant Brainard verbally f-*«iP!>n«^Wt Map of Country immfdjately SuRROUNni\r. Ft. Cont.er. THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. 11 reported that they had traveled twenty-five miles to the northwest, and had reached a high "divide," from which they believed water drained westward, althongh a thick snow-storm prevented any view. Dr. Pavy started on the 2ist with supplies for depot B, and was unable to round Dista*it Cape. Later in the day, with Sergeants Braiuard and Rice, I got the sledge around the cape to the entrance of Water-course Bay, where, a runner breaking, the load was left luitil the next day, when Sergeant Braiuard moved it to the north shore of St. Patrick Ba On the 24th Lieutenant Lockwood started with four men to haul supplies to depot B (near Cape Beechey). In returning 'le brought from near the head of St. Patrick's Bay a section of a large coniferous tree, probably pine. It was found just above the tide-water by Privates Connell and Chri&.iansen, September 9, at which time the largest end was cut off for fire-wood for the relief party. The section from the center was of nine and a half inches diameter. When found, the tree was thirty f^ct in length. I,ieutenant Lockwood's detailed report is appended. No. 25. Sergeant Rice, on the 25tli and 26th, with dog-sledge, added supplies to depot B. His report forms Appendix No. 26. Sergear ts Braiuard and Jewell examined the ice towards Cape Lieber September 26. It was found to be quite rough and evidently liable as yet to open during the tides or strong winds. During the month a hare, four wolves, twelve eider-ducks, and eleven musk-cattle were killed. The wolves were of a pack which, eighteen in number, crossed the harbor-ice near the station September 17. Two others of the pack were badly wounded. Stars were first visible midnight of September 9 and 10. Sets of time, latitude, and azimuth observations were made during the month. From the 17th to the 19th, inclusive, hourly observations of magnetic declination were made, and observations for inclination and horizontal intensity. In addition to hourly tidal observations, the high nd low waters were observed as to time and height. Hourly meteorological observations were made. (As the hourly observations mentioned above have been regularly made, they will not be referred to in detail each month.) Mean pressure, 29.800 [756.9"""] ; temperature, + 10.92° [ — 11.7° C.]. The mean tem- perature (4.7° [2.6° C] below Nares, Floeberg Beach, 1875) has been surpassed as regards cold only by 9.74° [ — 12.4'' C] of Kane, Van Rensselaer Harbor, 1853. Extremes of temperature, +30° [ — 1.1° C] and — 11.9° [ — 24.4° C.]. The minimum is the lowest on record for September. A minimum of — 14.5° [ — 25.8° C] was experienced by field parties the night of the 24th and 25th. The new ice was fifteen inches thick at the end of the month. Snow fell on nine days ; amount melted, '^23 inch. The issue of an ounce of lime-juice to each man, which had been made on alternate days, became daily from September 21. The health of the command continued excellent. 0CT0BP:R, 1881. The .', it extends six miles to the northwest (true) and terminates in a narrow ravine, the bed of the river. His report, with a map of the valley, forms Appendix No. 29. I m-- ^it s I THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. 18 considered as safe for sledges. Lieutenant Lockwood, however, proposed that a crossing be attempted near Cape Beechey, at the narrowest part of the cliannel. While sensible of the very hazardous nature of such an attempt, I consented, having full confidence in Lieutenant Lockwood's prudence, and feeling assured that his good judgment would cause him to abandon the effort at the proper time. Leaving the station November 2 with eight men, who had all volunteered for the duty, he returned the 8th, having made two unsuccessful efforts on the 4th and 5th. The channel was found covered with heavy ice, some of which was in motion, and several miles from the shore a channel of open water four or five hundred yards wide was found. Lieutenant Lockwood's orders and detailed report fqnn Appendices Nos. 31 and 32. Dr. Pavy, who had left with two dog-sledges, November 3, to add stores to depot C in Wrangel Bay, returned to the station the same day as Lieutenant Lockwood, No\'ember 8. Dr. Pavy's orders and reports form Appendices Nos. 33, 34, and 35. These trips, ending twenty-three days after the sun had left us, terminated the autumn work at an unprecedentedly late date, the high latitude being considered. The expedition then settled down to winter quiet. A tri-weekly school was commenced during the month and kept up through the winter, with benefit to the men attending. Of the educational qualifications of the expedition it may be said that every man of the party but one could write, and he acquired the attainment during the winter. A semi-monthly newspaper. The Arctic Moon., continued for four numbers, excit- ing interest and affording amusement. The 24th was appointed as a day of thanksgiving and praise. Selections from the Psalms were read in the morning. Amusements of various kinds, races, rifle-sliooting, etc., filled up the day pleasantly and added zest to the excellent dinner which followed. November 24 the obser\'er commenced taking daily samples of the air, in accordance with instructions furnished by Prof Edward Morley. Other observations were continued as usual. The thickness of the new ice December i, was thirty-one inches. Means: pressure, 29.760 [755.9""° ] ; temperature, — 24.53° ["~3i"4° ^-l- Extremes of temperature, — 3.0° [ — 19.4° C.] and — 46.0° [ — 43.3° C.]. The mean temperature is the lowest on record of any expedition, being 2. 15'' [1.2° C] lower than that of Kane, Van Rens- .selaer Harbor, 1853. Only one lower maximum is known: Kellett, H. M S. Rcso/iiii; near Melville Island, 1853 (by 5°) [2-8° C.]. There are two lower minima: Parry, Melville Island, 1819 (—47.0°) [—43.9° C], and Kane, Van Rensselaer Harbor, 1853 (—47.9°) [—44.4" C.]. The health of the party remained excellent. No symptoms of scurvy appeared, and no other sickness occurred. On the 30th Sergeant Gardiner broke his left leg while making a tidal obser\'ation. No complication followed in his case ; his general health remained good, although the bone united slowly. DECEMBER, 1881. December passed slowly. About the loth, if at any time, a few of the men gave indica- tions of being affected by the continual darkness, but such signs soon disappeared, and cheerful spirits returned. The Eskimo appeared to be the most affected. On the 13th Jens Edward disappeared, leaving the station in early morning, without mittens and without breakfast. Sending two parties with lanterns to describe a half-mile circle around the station, his tracks were soon found, leading towards the straits. He was at once pursued, and was overtaken about ten miles from the station, near Cape Murchison. He returned to the station without objection, and in time recovered his spirits. No cause for his action in this respect could be ascertained. 14 TDE LA.DY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. Sergeant Rice, while assisting in the pursuit, fell on the ice-foot in the straits and seriously injured his shoulder. He was sent back in charge of Private Whisler. The latter had left the station in zeal, without orders, and was too thinly clad. Although the weather was mod- erately warm ( — 29°) [ — 33.9° C] yet over exertion, followed by reaction, so affected him that he would have perished from cold had it not been for Sergeant Rice's judirlous and persistent efforts. These efforts were the more creditable that Sergeant Rice's right arm was useless from his fall. This exposure affected somewhat Private Whisler's faculties, and it was several hours after his return before he was entirely in his right mind. Eskimo Christiansen two days later gave decided signs of following Tens' example, saying that the men intended to kill him. In this connection it should be said that the men always treated the Eskimo in the kindest and most considerate manner, carefully avoiding any pleasantries with or allusions to them. This course had been enjoined on them by me as the result of Inspector Smith's advice regarding them, and from my knowledge of the experiences of previous expeditions. The affair gave me much unea.siness until the returning sun and commencement of spring work engaged their attention and rendered them more cheerful. Christmas was celebrated as elaborately as our surroundings would pennit. The kind thoughtfulness of friends of the expedition, some personally unknown to any member, had done not a little to contribute to our pleasure, by providing a gift for everj' member of the party. I am certain that the heart of more than one man was deeply touched by these contributions. The usual observations were regularly made during the month. Means : pressure, 29.709 [754.6"'"'] ; temperature, — 32.01° [ — 35.6° C.]. Maximum temperature, — 10° [ — 23.3° C.]; minimum, — 52.2° [ — 46.8° C.]. Lower means and extremes of temperatures have been observed but twice in December. The health of the command remained good. No .signs of scurvy were detected. A few cases of indigestion and anaemia, not interfering with duty, were reported. JANUARY, 1882. The event of January was a storm of great violence on the i6th. The barometer sank to 29.020 [737.1"""] (0.86 inch in sixteen hours), while the temperature rose to — 9.5° [ — 23.1° C] (21.4° [11.9°. C] in seven hours). The wind attained a registered velocity of northeast sixty-five miles per hour, when the anemometer spindle broke. Without a doubt a velocity between eighty and ninet> miles per hour was reached. For nearly an hour I was fearful lest the house be torn in pieces, and I doubt not it would have been destroyed but for its double embankment of earth and snow. Although six of the most active men devoted their energies to the observations, yet one tidal and three temperature observations were missed. The entire solid covering of ice moved perceptibly in the harbor, a swell of several inches appeared in the tidal hole (inside a snow- house), and the tidal rod was bent and displaced. Pendulum observations were commenced on the 6th and ended on the 29th. Forty-eight separate swings were obtained, on sixteen days, with corresponding time observations. Ser- geant Edward Israel, Signal Service, a graduate of Ann Arbor University, observed the transits and made the time observations. He is entitled to much credit for attention and devotion to his work, whi^':, as every Arctic observer must know, was of a trying character. The mean tem- perature of the sixteen days on which he observed averaged more than 40° below zero [ — 40° C], and the time observations were made with the temperature of the observatory 56° below zero [ — 4f/ C.]. It is, perhaps, superfluous to add that he suffered .somewhat from frost-bites. The detailed iiendulum observations, with records of corresponding time observations, have been transmitted, for reduction and publication, to the Superintendent of the U. S. Coast TITE LADY PRA^JKLIX BAY EXPEDITTOlf. 15 and Geodetic Survey, at who.'ic initiative and expense the work was done. The instructions of Assistant Charles Peirce, of that service, were followed as closely as practicable, and fortu- nately no accident or mishap occurred in the course of the observations. The penduluni itself was brought back in good condition, so that further comparable observations may be made with that instrument. Other obseivations were made as usual. Means: Pressure, 29.717 [754. 8"""'] {temperature, —38.27° [—39.0° C.]; maximum, — 9.5° [ — 23.1° C.]; minimum, — 58.2° [ — 50.1° C.]. Several expeditions have experienced lower extremes and means. Slight symptoms of scurvy appeared in the case of Jens Edward, Eskimo, who had been in a very despondent mood, but by the beginning of February he had entirely recovered. Scurvy symptoms occurred in no other case. Marked anaemia in one case put a man oiTduty for a few days. From the 15th there was a general improvement in the spirits and health of the whole party. ? FEBRUARY, 1882. The beginning of the month was marked by verj- cold and unusually clear weather. At mid-day of the 2d the thermometer on the floe could be read without artificial light. The increasing evidences of the returning sun were closely noted by all, and naturally afforded universal gratification. The minimum temperature of the winter was observed on the 3d; the standard in instrument shelter (corrected from freezing mercury at — 37-9°) [ — 38-8°C.], read — 62.1° [ — 52.3° C. ]; substandard on harbor floe (correc.ed), — 63. 1° [ — 52.8° C.]; uncor- rected,-67° [-55° C.]. On the i6th terminated a period of cold probably unparalleled for its duration and inten- sity. Pure mercury remained frozen sixteen days and five hours, while the corrected mean temperature on the floe was — 54-6° [ — 48.1° C.]. Kane's period of greatest cold for sixteen consecutive daysgavea mean ofbut — 43-3° [ — 41.8° C.]. At thisstation, Stephenson, 1876, the mean for fourteen days was (uncorrected) — 49° [ — 45° C.]. Lieutenant Lockwood, with two men and a dog-sledge, was sent on the 19th to examine the ice from Cape Beechey towards the Greenland coast, and determine what route should be followed in crossing Robeson Channel as soon as the sun should reappear. They returned the 22d, having traveled several miles eastward from Cape Beechey and found good ice. Although mercury was frozen during their entire absence, and the temperature as low as — 52.1° [ — 46.7° C], the party experienced but slight frost-bites. Lieutenant Lockwood's orders and reports form Appendices Nos. 36 and T)]- Washington's birthday was duly celebrated. Out-of-door amusements with a mean tem- perature of — 44° [ — 42.2° C] were not much in favor. Races and target-shooting were par- ticipated in, however. Parties were occupied the 23d and 24th in mining coal, and in hauling it and other supplies to Cape Murchison. On the 28th the sun, after an absence of one hundred and thirty-seven da>s, was seen for a few minutes. Experimentstodetermine the velocity of sound were made at temperatures as low as — 55° [ — 48.3° C] and — 61° [ — 51.7° C.]. More careful experiments were made the second winter, which, with deductions, form Appendix No. 137. A hare waj .shot on the 15th, and later in the month two others. The greater part of the month was employed in active preparations for .spiing traveling. Insufficiently equipped originally for sledging work many articles had to be improvised. The ingenuity of the party proved equal to all demands made upon it. Pri\ates Bender and Frederick were entitled to especial credit for special devices and improvements ; the for uer in cooking and the latter in foot and tentage gear. Sergeants Elison and Cross succeeded admirably in the construction of sledges after the Greenland and Hudson Bay models. ■ % 1 16 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY BXPBDITrON. The new ice at tlie end of tlie month was fifty-three and a half inclies thick. Mean pressnre, 29.765 [756.0"""] ; tetnperature, mean, — 46.47° [ — 43.6° C] ; maximnm, — 10° [—23.3° C.]; minimnm, — 62.1° [—52.3° C] Lower minima have been reported only by the expeditions of Kane, Van Rensselaer Harbor, 1854 (—66.4°) [— 54.7° C], and Nares, Floeber^ Beach, 1H76 (—66.5°) [—54.7° C.]. The mean temperature was nnprecedentedly low, not only for Febrnar}', bnt for every month. Tlie nearest Febrnary mean, Nares, Floeberg Beach, 1876. was 8.5° [4.7° C] hijflier. Tlie coldest month previonsly reported by an Arctic expedition was by McClnre, Mercy Bay, January, 1853, mean (unofficial and uncorrected) — 43.^7° [ — 42.2° C.]. Against this may fairly be placed the mean of our floe thermometer, for P'^iruar)', — 52.13° [ — 46.7° C] uncorrected, — 48.23° [ — 44.6° C] corrected. Our floe thermometer was properly protected from radiation, and was a sub-standard, reading with the standard under similar conditions. The health of the command was excellent throughout the month. This subject since the previous October had naturally engaged the most earnest and especial attention of Dr. Pavy and myself Special stress was laid by me on the following points: Thorough and frequent airing of beds and bed-clothing to insure perfect dryness ; regular bathing ; change and va- riety in diet ; and innocent amusements. A course of lectures was commenced in January and continued throughout the winter. lYesh bread of excellent quality, canned fruit, musk- meat or birds, and canned vegetables were all issued on alternate days. An ounce of lime- juice was taken daily by each man. The entire party was medically examined each week. This subject is treated more fully in the medical report, which forms Appendix No. 103. MARCH, 1882. . . The sun having returned, all thoughts and energies were turned towards spring traveling. Lieutenant Lockwood, with three men and dog-sledge, left March ist for Thank God Harbor, on the Cireenland coast, to ascertain what serviceable provisions could be drawn from that point for the North Greenland sledge party. A second sledge, under Private Long, accom- panied him as far as depot B, near Cape Beechey, carrying additional supplies to that point. Lieutenant Lockwood returned on the nth, having found the traveling generally good, although in places very bad. His route outward was via Capes Beechey and Lupton; inward he traveled overland to Newman Bay and around Cape Sumner. Although the roof and a side were gone, the observatory building at Thank God Harbor was found yet standing, and the stores fairly protected from weather and animals. In quantity and variety the articles in no way agreed with the list in the Polaris narrative. The records of the English expedition and their store-book were brought to Fort Conger. They form, with Lieutenant Lockwood's orders and report. Appendices Nos. 38, 39, and 40. The graves of Hall, Hand, and Paul were visited and were found in good condition. The English twenty-foot ice-boat was apparently in good order. The whale-boat at Polaris Boat Camp was found, with materials at hand with which she could be made serviceable. The experiences of this sledging party had been looked forward to by me with consid- erable anxiety. The journey, latitude and sun considered, was the earliest extended one on record, and was made in the worst month in the year. The party experienced a severe storm, and for ten days the temperature never rose higher than — 30° [ — 34.4° C.]. They traveled once in — 55.5° [ — 48.6° C] with a light wind, and again in a storm at — 40° [ — 40° C.]; experiencing in the latter case frequent, but not severe, frost-bites. The trip thoroughly tested foot-gear, cooking apparatus, sleeping-bags, and sledges which were, to a certain extent, expe- rimental. While several slight defects were discovered, yet the general experience inspired r < THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. 17 confidence and reliance during the main spring work which followed later. The exemption from severe frost-bites at such extreme temperatures were guarantees of the caution and help- fultiess of the several members of the party. It is but justice to Lieutenant Lockwood and his party to notice, in connection with this remarkably .successful journey, that the distance from Thank God Harbor to Cape Stunnct, was pas.sed over in three marches. It is no disparagement to Captain Hall, that over the same road and distance from Thank God HarJ)or to Cape Brevoort six marches were necessary during his journey. Sending on the 2d to Water-course Bay for the meat of two musk-cattle, which had been su.spended on a tripod, it was found that drifting snow had enabled wolves and foxes to reach it. It was our only loss of meat during the winter, and was unimportant, our supply being ample. Dr. Pavy, with Sergeant Linn, Jens, and dog-sledge, left, March 5, to establish depot E on the Greenland coast for Lieutenant Lockwood's spring traveling. His own supplies, except such as were to be drawn from the English depot at Lincoln Bay, had been cached the preceding autumn. The journey was made under trying circumstances. They traveled with the temperature as low as — 54° [ — 47.8° C], and cro.ssed Robeson Channel during a northeast gale; temperature, — 38° [ — 38.9° C.]. The only frost-bite was that of Eskimo Jens Edward, who, thinking Sergeant Linn sick, slept outside the bag rather than disturb him. Although the temperature sank that night to — 44.7° [ — 42.6° C] he had but one toe frozen, and that not severely. Dr. Pavy's orders and reports form Appendices Nos. 41 and 42. March 14, Sergeant Brainard, with seven men, started with the boat Discovery (which had been hauled as far as Water-course Bay on the 7th) and additional sledging supplies, which were to be cached on the Greenland coast. They returned on the 20th, having left the boat and part of the supplies at depot E, in the Gap. Sergeant Brainard was unable to take all the supplies across Robeson Channel, or move depot E into Newman Bay, within the time fixed for his return, owing to his party being weakened by the loss of two men, one of whom, attacked with rheumatism, was necessarily seut back with a comrade to depot B to await the return of the party. In addition to stormy weather the party experienced extreme cold, trav- eling in a temperature of — 50° [ — 45.6° C], and having a minimum of — 61° [ — 51.7° C.]. The successful i.ssue of this journey under such trying conditions of the weather and tempera- ture, bears strong testimony to the successful management of field details by Sergeant Brainard, and also evidences the hardy endurance of the members of the party. Sergeant Brainard' s report forms Appendix No. 44, and his orders No. 43. On March 19 Dr. Pavy, who had volunteered his services for that special geographical work, started for Cape Joseph Henry, whence he was to attempt the discovery of land to the northward, over the Polar Ocean. He was instructed to keep a sharp lookout for drift-wood in order that no chance for discovering the fate of i\\e Jeatinclic should be lost. His party consisted of Sergeant Rice, Signal Service, the photographer of the expedition, and Jens Edward, driver of the dog-sledge Lil/a. The Antoinette, under Sergeant Jewell, Signal Service, was sent as a supporting sledge as far as Lincoln Bay. Sergeant Jewell returned to the station March 30. He had, after leaving Dr. Pavy at Lincoln Bay, transported two loads of supplies from depot B near Cape Beechej-, to depot E in the Gap, on the Greenland coast. Private Ellis, who had left the station on the 23d to assist in this work, had unfortunately wet his feet from tidal overflow, while en route to Cape Beechey, from which somewhat severe, but superficial, frost-bites followed. Ellis, however, displayed great endurance in the affair, cro.ssing Robeson Channel twice after his injury, and then returned on foot alone from Cape Beechey to the station. Sergeant Jewell was entitled to great credit for his energy and endurance. During the time he was in the field the mean temperature was — 35.2° [ — 37.3° C.]; and, on five days, temperatures ranging from H. Mis. 393 2 18 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. ■f ! • f ; 1 — 50° to — 53° [ — 46°C. to — 47° C] were recorded. His field work was done without tentagC except when he chanced to lie at Cape Beechey. Serjeant Jewell's rejxjrt fonns Apjxjndix No. 45. March 19, continnons daylight practically commenced, Arctnrns being the only star visible at midnight. The jolly-boat I a/orous wsai taken to Dutch Lsland on the 31st, and hauled up on the adjacent shore, convenient for use when the straits should open. Four hares were the only game added to our larder during the month. A large quantity of musk-meat, and over seventy guillemots from Cireenland, were yet on hand at the end of the month. On the 7th an anemometer and on the nth a minimum thermometer were exposed at Dutch Island for the purpose of comparison. The usual observations were uninterrupted during the month. Mean pressure, 29.738 [755.3°""]. On the 29th the barometer touched 28.988 [736.3"""]. Temperature: Mean, — 29.94° [ — 34.4° C] ; maximum, — 7° [ — 21.7° C] ; minimum, — 46.8° [ — 43.8° C.]. The mean and minimum temperatures were ver>' high for the latitude. This was the fifth consecutive month during which the thermometer remained constantly be- low zero [—17.8° C.]. The black-bulb solar thermometer, which was scaled only down to five degrees above zero [ — 15" C], first registered on the loth. On the 19th the ice on Lake Alexander was fouhd to be eighty inches thick, against fifty-four inches in the harbor a few days later. On April i the harbor-ice was fifty-five inches thick. APRIL, 1882. The early days of April were fully occtipied with the final arrangements for the party selected to explore the north coast of Greenland. This work had lately been intrusted to Second Lieut. James B. Lockwood, with general instructions which empowered him to perfect the necessary field detaiLs. Sergeant Brainard and nine men, dragging the Hudson Bay sledges Beaumont^ Hall,, Hayes,, and Kane,, left April 3, followed the next day by Lieutenant Lockwood and two men with the Antoinette, dragged by eight dogs. In the interest of this journey of exploration, a large depot of provisions had already been established under my directions near Cape Beechey, and a second one on the Greenland coast near Cape Sumner. The force employed consisted of thirteen ; main party, Lieutenant Lockwood, Sergeant Brainard, and Eskimo Christiansen, with dog-sledge Antoinette ; supporting parties, four sergeants, a corporal and five privates, hauling four Hudson Bay sledges. By the 13th four men had returned to the station ; two. Privates Henry and Whisler, though physically sound, had proved unfit for arduous field work at such low temperatures ; Private Connell had been incapacitated by a superficial frost-bite (the party having had temperatures as low as — 49° [ — 45° C.]) which temporarily lamed him, and Private Bieder- bick had been attacked by a bladder trouble which caused Lieutenant Lockwood to consider his return advisable. The latter two men returned reluctantly. Lieutenant Lockwood re- tu.ned to the station on the 14th, and left again the same day. He came for a spare set of runners to the Antoinette^ as the old set showed signs of weakness. His party and rations were then at Polaris Boat Camp, and he reported that, although delayed by violent storms, yet the progress of his work was not at all discouraging. At 8 p. m. of the 3d, Sergeant Rice, Signal Service, the photographer of the expedition, appeared with Eskimo Jens Edward, bringing with them the iron shoe of one of the runners of Dr. Pavy's sledge, which had completely broken down on the morning of the 2d at Cape Union. This sledge had beeu brought from Greenland, and was hardly made of as choice material as % • TOE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. 19 sledges of the same pattern which had been constnicted at Conger. Sergeant Rice had immediately offered to return to the station for a runner, and half an hour after the acci- dent was on the way to Conger with P^skimo Jens. They arrived at depot li, .south of Cajie Beechey, at 2.30 p. m. the same day, after journeyings which maybe considered as among the most remarkable in Arctic annals. They had been thirty-six hours without sleep, a!ul in nineteen hours had traveled at least forty mile.s, over a rough pack in which much nibble ice was interspersed. The temperature, which was — 42° [ — 41° C] at starting, fell during their match to — 56° [ — 49° C], and was — 32° [ — 35.6° C] on their arrival at Conger. Leaving Fort Conger April 4, Sergeant Rice reached Lincoln Bay the 6th, having with Jens carried the ninner (which weighed twenty-five pounds) from Cape Beechey, to which point it had been taken on Lieutenant Lockwood's sledge. Other than this accident, reports from Dr. Pavy were ver>' encouraging. His team was in good condition, and, except the load on his broken sledge, all his supplies were at Black Cape. No heavy ice whatever could be seen from that cape, and traveling ahead appeared good. Previous to the accident he had expected to leave the coast at Cape Joseph Henry by the nth of April. Jupiter was last seen on the 2d, and continuous daylight commenced although the sun sank a few degrees below the horizon until the nth. On the 8th the temperature rose to 1.2° [ — 17.1° C], after having remained rontinnou.sly below zero [ — 17.8° C] for one hundred and sixty-five day.s. Sergeant Cross and Private Bender were sent on the 19th to Sun Bay with additional supplies for that depot. Their orders further required them to travel as far into the Cony- beare Bay as could be done in half a day's march, in order to ascertain the condition of the ice, and to report on the general outlook of the countiy to the westward of that bay. This journey was ordered with the hopes of obtaining information as to whether that route afforded any chance of a successful journey to the westward. On their return (the 22d) they 'nfonned me tliat they had gone as far as opposite the west end of Miller Island. Travel was heavy, and thick weather prevented any view to the westward. In view of our ignorance concerning the interior of Grinnell Land, I had long been impressed with the importance of penetrating it, and had not doubted the practicability of such a journey. Although imbued with the idea that an Arctic .commander's place is at his ship or station, yet in default of an officer, and feeling secure as to the condition of the parties to the northward, I started on such a trip April 24, to be absent not exceeding twenty days. The route determined on was from Archer Fiord via Conybeare Bay. Five men and two Hudson Bay sledges were taken, two of the men to be a supporting party for but two of the marches. Only indispensable articles of the lightest possible character were taken, from the kn -iwledge that even moderate success must depend largely upon light equipment. A single rubber blanket, a dog rent, and two double sleeping-bags provided shelter and bedding. Our cooking-lamp and table furniture weighed but six pounds. April 29, a puppy team of eight, born at Fort Conger in November, and trained by Private Schneider, hauled their first load, 355 pounds. They were worked continuously and judiciously from that time, and, with others bom later, contributed by their labors most materially to our geographical success. Without such recruits, the remnants of our original teams, which, spared by contagion, were necessarily overworked, would have surely failed us. A hare, a fox, and a ptarmigan were obtained during the month. Two wolves were seen near Cape Beechey. A snow-bird was first seen on the 14th. To our siirprise, an eagle was seen on the 4th, and again on the nth. The thickness of the ice remained nearly constant, being 50.5 inches at the beginning, and 1.5 less at the end of the month. The usual observations were made throughout the month. 20 TilE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. Mean pressure, 30.150 [765.8"'"]. The barometer at 2 p. in. April 9 reached 31.000 [787.4"""], a rise of 2.012 inches [51.1"""] (from 28.98H [736.3"""], March 29) in eleven days — a change possibly nnparallcled in Arctic or other observations. Temperature-. Mean, — 8.58° [ — 22.5° C] ; ma.ximum, 15° [ — 9.4° C.]; minimum, — 42.1° [—41.2° C.]. Though one of the coldest Aprils on record, it has been three times exceeded: 1861, Hayes, Port Fonlke, — 1 1.01° [—23.9° C.]; 1855, Kane, Van Rens.selaer Harbor, — 14.0° [—25.6° C.]; 1876, Stephenson, this .station, — 17.27'' [ — 27.4° C.]; and Nares, Floe-ljerg Heach, — 17.96° [ — 27.8° C], respectively. Lower minima, however, were observed only in 1876 at the two latter station:?, — 42.5° [ — 41.4° C. ] and — 46.5° [ — 43.6° C], resjjectively. MAY, 1882. Dr. Pavy unexpectedly returned May 3 from his sledge trip to the northward. The fol- lowing summary covers the important details of his journey: He left March 19 to .search for land north of Cape Jo.seph Henry, and had been particu- larly instructed to keep a careful lookout for drift-wood, and to bring to Conger all such, in view of possible tidings of the Jiattnt/Zt', accompanied by Sergeant Rice, »Signal Ser\'ice (the photographer of the expedition, who had volunteered for the trip). The dog-sledge A/i/o/'/nZ/c, under Sergeant Jewell, Signal Service, was taken as a supporting sledge as far as Lincoln Bay, which point was reached in four days. Visiting that depot to take it up, it was found that the provisions cached at Mount Parry the previous autumn had been visited by a bear, which ate .seventy pounds of the pemmican, evidently at a meal. Sergeant Jewell, supporting, left the party March 23 to return to Fort Conger, with the dog-sledge Li7/a and Eskimo Jens Edward. On April i, while en route to Black Cape with their last load, a sledge-runner broke at Cape Union, which involved a delay of five days. Sergeant Rice and Eskimo Jens, making a remarkable journey (as mentioned in the April proceedings) to Fort Conger, returned on the 6th with a new runner. Starting on the same day, despite bad ice and loss of three days by stormy weather, all the supplies had been brought up to Cape Joseph Henry, and that point left by April 20. The ice to the northward appeared to be of the rougliest po.ssible character, and the course of the party was directed towards Cape Hecla, with the intention of making a depot there and of traveling thence directly north. Early the morning of the 22d a violent southeast storm set in. It subsiding, the party moved towards Cape Hecla, and about 8 a. m. reached a channel of open water. The lane, as then seen, extended from Crozier Island around Cape Hecla, as far to the northwestward as could be seen from a high floe. Towards Cape Hecla the lane was a mile in width. A harbor seal {PAoca hispida)^ much to the excitement of the Eskimo, was seen in open water. By 11.35 a. m. the channel had increased to two miles in width, while the floe moving north- ward opened out the land to the west of Hecla, so that the three capes — the farthest pre- sumably Cape Columbia — were seen. As it seemed probable that open water did or would extend to Cape Joseph Henry, a retreat was then decided on. Returning immediately to that cape. Dr. Pavy found that his party was adrift on a pack in the Polar Ocean. Open water for nearly a mile intervened between them and the nearest land. Nothing was possible except to watch and wait. Fortunately, on the morning of the 23d a northwest gale set in, and the pack drifting eastward touched Cape Joseph Henry about 8 a. m. Abandoning their tent, and all but their most essential articles, they hastened to the land and started southward. Occasional lanes of water with moving pack were seen until Black Cape was reached ; thence southward only solid ice was met with. THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPKDITION. 21 The party were in a state of licalth durinjf their entire trip of forty-six days. TeniiK-ratiires of --30" [ — 34° C], and below, were common in the first twenty days; the lowest hein^j —52" [—.\(^-7" C] March 30, and —56.2° [—49'' C] March 24. On the former occasion a severe snow-storm followed, (hiring which the temperature in a few hours rose from — 52° [ — 46.7° C] to — 8.5° [ — 22.5° C.]. The tcnii)erature rose first above zero [—17.8° C.J the same day as at the station, April 8, 8 p. m. (-1- 4.5°) [— 15.3° C.]. Stormy weather was frequent, but, as the party traveled when it was in any way possible, only four days were lost from that cau.sc. Traveling was excellent from Fort Conger to Cape Heechey ; thence hummocky ice, inter- sfx^rsed with rubble and occasionally covered with snow, was fomid, which near Wrangel Ray gave ])lace to large floes and excellent level ice, affording good traveling until at the end of Lincoln Hay, where the worst kinds of hummocks were met with. From Lincoln Hay towards Black Cape there was an ice-foot fairly good as far as Cape Union, but beyond exceed- ingly rough in many places. From Cape Union to Black Cape no large paleocrystic floes could anywhere be seen, and at Floe-berg Beach, where H. M. S. y-Z/rr/ wintered, 1875-76, no heavy ice nearer tlian one and a half miles in the offing. From Cape Sheridan to View Point continuous paleocrystic floes afforded, as a rule, fair traveling. From View Point to Cape Joseph Henry new level ice was found, which caused Dr. Pavy to travel directly north- ward instead of crossing Feilden Peninsulaand James Ross Bay to Cape Hecla, as recommended by me. Dr. Pavy's detailed report, supplemented by Sergeant Rice's account of his detached trip, ami by his own instructions, forms Appendices Nos. 46, 47, and 48. May 5, Private Schneider left with puppy team to haul additional supplies to depot B, near Cape Beechey ; he returned the next day. On the 7th J returned from the interior of Grinnell Land, having in twelve days (fifteen marches) traveled two hundred and forty miles with a loaded sledge, besides seventy miles of separate journeys, making a daily average of twenty-one and a half miles. The route was via the southwest part of Discovery Harbor, Sun and Conybeare Bays. The results may be briefly summarized as follows: Conybeare Bay does not terminate ten miles inward, as supposed by Lieutenant Aich-.r, R. N., but proves to be a fiord, which I have called Chandler Fiord. Extending from Stony Cape to the southwest. Chandler Fiord terminates in that direction, about thirty nii.cs inland, by a bay (Ida Bay), about four by si.x miles in extent. Near Ida Bay the fiord proper turns iharply to the north-northwcb^: and continues about twelve miles farther. At the end of Chandler Fiorcl was found what at first sight appeared to be a glacier — rn almost vertical wall of ice, fifteen feet high and about a mile wide. It proved to be the ice-dam of a river, from which fresh water oozed in small quantities. Following the river, its very tortuous course was in general first north and then west-northwest. It was found to have its source in a lake (Lake Hazen) of remarkable extent. The junction of Lake Hazen and the river was in latitude 81° 46.5' N., longitude 70° 30' W. Five miles before reaching Lake Hazen we were extremely astonished to find the ri\er open. The appearance in April at this latitude of a clear running stream made a marked impression on us, which was not diminished by a bird (neither snow-bunting nor ptannigan, but of an unknown kind) suddenly flying by. The open river was about forty yards wide and two feet deep, with ice-walls about ten feet thick, which, gradually decreasing in thickness, totally disappeared at the edge of the lake, into which open water extended about a quarter of a mile. It was evident that the stream flows the entire year, and that at its source it rarely, if ever, freezes. Thin ice, along the borders of the junction, shows that in extremely cold weather a thin coating of ice forms, which must very soon be destroyed by the current. Its rapid current (the average gradient of the river was about twenty feet per mile) and a water temperature of 32. 6° [o. 3° C . ] account for the stream remaining open. 22 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. Lake Hazen was estimated to be nearly sixty miles long and six miles wide. Its general direction is from east-northeast to west-southwest (true). Its southern shores are bounded by ranges of low hills, not entirely snow-clad, which extend far to the southward, with no prom- inent peak visible. Parallel with the northern shore extends a range of mountains, partly snow-clad, which were called the Garfield Range. Through the valleys of this ra'jge could be seen occasional peaks of those mountains — covered with eternal snow — which I have called I \e United States Mountains, retaining the nomenclature, although their location has been radically changed from that originally given them. In Lake Hazen several very smai^ ?.'=^ were seen, and along its shore ptarmigan and hare shot. About a dozen musk-cattle were seen, and evidences were found of exi-^nsive herds wintering in the adjacent valleys. The thickness of the ice on Lake Hazen could not be ascertained, owing to the loss of our ax. Tht surface of the lake was covered with snow from one to two feet deep. The saslnigi {i. e. , bands of drifted snow) on Lake Hazen indicated plainly that the pre- \ ailing winds of the past winter had been northeasterly. Following the shore-line about eighteen miles to the southwest, I crossed the north side of the lake and visited a large glacier (Henr'^tt?. Nesmith Glacier). This glacier was found to discharge into a small bay, some four miles deep, and to have a convex-shaped front of three miles extent. The perpendicular front, which at first had appeared to be of insignificant size, towered up in an imposing manner on near approach, and proved to vary from about one hundred and twenty-five to one hundred and seventy-five feet in height. It was lowest where one of five surface-discharge brooks had worn it down, in the very center. Its extent inward could not then be determined, as no view reaching more than three or four miles distance could be obtained, although I ascended the side of an adjacent mountain, which bears north by east (true). Knowing tliPt our rations could not carry us farther than we had already explored to the westward, and fearing the entire breaking up of the river, I returned to Fort Conger, caching our surplf stores at the river, for the use of a future party. The general health of my party was excelltiit. I had the misfortune to badly bruise my left foot in rough ice while in the drag-belt the third day out, and Private Connell twisted his knee in sight of the station when rettirning; but neither injury was serious. The ice traveled over was in many places remarkable. For some eight miles in Chandler Fiord and twenty on the river it was free from snow and so smooth that the sledge and load could have been drawn by a child. Not over forty miles of really bad ice were met with during the journey. The weather was perfect and no temperature below — 14° [ — 25.6*^ C] was experienced. Privates Bender, Connell, and. Whisler endured most cheerfully the pt i va- tions and hardships incident to the trip, and my success was due to the great endurance and energy shown by these men. On May 19 Sergeant Jewell, Corporal Salor, and Private Frederick (one of Lieutenant Lockwood's supporting parties) returned. They had accompanied Lieutenant Lockwood as far as Cape Bryant, from wh'ch point he had sent them back, their Hud.son Bry sledges being in such condition as to render them of no further assistance to him. Sergeants Linn, Ralston, and Elison had remained at Polaris Coat Camp to await Lieutenant Lockwood's return, in order to assist him in managing the whale-boat should Robeson Channel in the !nean time break up. The entire party had been in excellent health during the whole trip. Lieutenant Lockwood on April 29 was at Cape Brjvint, acro.ss the Polar Ocean, about to start for Cape Britannia with Sergeant Brainard and Eskimo Christiansen, with the dog-sIeclj;e Antoinette and twenty-five days' rations. Thinking it advisable that the party at Polaris Boat Camp should be visited, Pi. Pavy was sent by me to them on the loth, taking with hin; a small supply of special provisions for occasional change of their diet. He returned on the i6th via Thank God Ha'.bor, from which THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. 28 place lie brought one Irindred and ten pounds of pennnican, a j^rindstone, and three books belonging to the f-nglish Arctic expedition. The books were abandoned at Fort Conger. No written report of this trip was made by Dr. Pavy. May 15, Privates Long and Whisler started down Archer Fiord to examine the English depot cached there. They reLurned the 19th, having gone with the Hudson Bay sledge below Keppel Head, whence Private Long had reached, on snow-shoes. Hillock Depot, where eighty- four rations were found in good order except the bread. This short journey was made at the request of Private Long, who was desirous of field service, but was debarred from the longer journey.'" owing to the advice of the surgeon. Long's report is to be found as Appendix No. 49. Twc men were occupied the 21st, 24th to 26tli in hauling coal from the mine to the ice- foot on Water-course Bay. May 24, a garden was dug and planted, which totally failed, owing probably to alkali or other salts in the earth at the selected spot. Sergeant Edward Israel, Signal Service, the astronomer of the expedition, and Private Council left on the 25th to follow up the Bellows and ascertain whether it afforded a practi- cable route to J^ake Hazen. They returned on the 30th, having reached the end of the valley. Sergeant Israel determined the position of several points during his absence. About Ihirty- six musk-oxen were seen and three killed; no more being slaughtered for fear the men.i. would spoil. Sergeant Israel's report is to be found in Appendix No. 50. The temperature at 9 a. m. of the 28th rose to 32.5° [0.3° C], after having been continu- ously below the freezing-point of water two hundred and seventy-two days. On the 29tli I v" sited Lake Alexandra. May 31, "Decoration Day," was celebrated by decorating, as far as our means would pennit, the head-stones of the dead of H. M. S. Dis- covery. The initiative in this matter was taken by the enlisted men of the expedition. May 31, Sergeant Rice (photographer) was sent with the dof-teams to the Bellows to make some negatives and bring in the musk-meat. He was accompanied as far as Sun Bay by Private Biederbick, who was ordered to make half a day's march into Black Rock Vale to deterini:ie its extent and general direction, with reference to further exploration of the interior. Game near the station was very scarce ; one hare only was obtained. Two ptarmigau and two hares were shot on the shore of Lake Hazen. A snowy-owl {Nyctea scandiaca) was seen on the 8th, and a burgomaster-gull {Larus glancus) on the i4tli. Five square-flipper seals {Phoca barbaia), weighing in the aggregate 2,717 pounds, were killed. The harbor-ice attained on May 31 its maximum thickness, 59^ inches, being zoy'^ Miches thicker than observed by H. M. S. Discovery in the same harbor, 1876. Oil the 31st the ice in the straits (Robeson Channel, Hall Basin, and Kennedy Channel) appeared as firm and solid as ever; no water except from tidal cracks was anywhere visible. The usual observation,- were uninterrupted during the month. Mean pressure, 30.133 [765.4°""]; temperature +17.41° [ — 8.1° C.]; extremes of tempera- ture, +33.8° [i.oC] and +1.3° [ — 17.1° C.]. No expedition north of Smith's Sound has before experienced so warm a May, and none other even in that sound has recorded a May minimum above zero [ — 17.8° C,]. No temperature below zero [ — 17.8° C] was recorded by either of Lieutenant Lockwood's parties, but on a single occasion it was noted by me in- land on Lake Hazen. The health of the command continued excellent. JUNE, 1882. On June i Lieutenant Lockwood returned from tin- exploration of North Greenland and the discovery of Hazen Coast. The general features ai.d results of the trip are here given, but correct details are to be found in the very interesting iid excellent report made by Lieu- tenant Lockwoodj v/hich forms, with his instructions, Appendices Nos. 51, 52, and 53. 24 T; Ji LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION, f ^ The parties, as before stated, left Fort Conger April 3 and 4. Their energies were first devoted to accumulating at Polaris Boat Camp, Newman Bay (which place had been fixed on as the base of operations), stores cached at various depots. Very low temperatures and a succession of violent gales not only delayed this work, but, entailing on the men severe physical sufferings, necessarily impaired their strength and energies. The temperature fell on two days below — 40° [ — 40° C.]; and as low as — 48.8° { — 44-9° C] was recorded. Four men suffered to such an extent from this work (one from frost-bite, fortunately superficial), that i* was thought their further continuance with the party would not be conducive to ulti- mate success, and they were consequently ordered back to the station. On April 16, however, the party started from Boat Camp for Cape Bryant with 300 rations for the men and about 350 for the dogs. Over 2,000 pounds were dragged — sledge Antoinette, hauled by eight dogs, 743 pounds; Hudson Bay sledges Hall, Hayes, and an extemporized sledge, Narcs, dragged by seven men (Sergeants Brainard, Jewell, Ralston, Linn, and Elison; Corporal Salor and Privt te Frederick), i, 276 pounds. Average weights, 93 pounds per dog and 182 pounds per man. The route followed (via Gorge Creek and Lost River) left the Cap Valley of the English to the west, and brought the party out on the shores of the Polar Ocean somewhat to the eastward of Repulse Harbor. The journey from Boat Camp to Stanton Gorge was tedious and tr>'ing in the extreme, snow falling the greater part of the time, and the temperature falling as low as — 40° [ — a^S C.]. Bad traveling made doubling tip (/. e., advancing only half the load at a time by the w''.ole party) necessary; and a runner of the Antoinette breaking caused the abandonment of the Nares. Lieutenant Lockwood's per- severance ards. Lieutenant Lockwood opines, in which I concur, that the crack results from the almost constant motion of the Polar pack. At about 82° 40' N., and 51° W., a sounding was made. Eight hundred and twenty feet (250"') of line and thongs — everything that was available — were used, but no bottom was found. In 83° 20' N., 63° W., Commander A. R. Markham, R. N., in 1876 found bottom at four hundred and thirty- two feet (130™). The ice-foot was slight and illy-defined north of Cape Bryant. The fiords and bays were immense expanses of level snow, their regular surface rarely broken by hummock or floe- berg. This to me seems to indicate that Victoiia inlets are but entrances to a fiord, not to a strait, and that the interior country is the mainland of Greenland. The most gratifying feature of this work has been its entire freedom from sickness. One trifling case of frost-bite and a few slight cases of snow-blindness comprised the list of ailments. In accomplishing this work, Lieutenant Lockwood displayed remarkable energy, courage, and perseverance. His success, which I cannot judge as otherwise than as grateful to the country, was won only by great endurance and much physical suffering on the part of himself and his party. I cannot but especially invite the attention of the War Department to his work, and commend his memory to the favorable consideration of his superiors. His labors in extending northward the limits of Greenland, and later in determining the western outlines and the interior conditions of Griunell Land, resulted in important additions to our knowledge 28 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. of the physical features of that part of the Arctic circle. His work reached from Cape Wash- ington 38° W., to Arthur lyand 83° W., thus covering above the eightieth parallel one-eighth of the circle of the globe. He worthily upheld the honor of the American for courage, energy, and perseverance. If his tragic fate awakened the sympathy of the world, none the less should his successful work receive recognition. He unfortunately did not return for merited promotion. Under similar ci rcnmstances it would have seemed grateful had my death and services been announced to the Army in General Orders, and such tribute I trust may yet seem proper to Lieutenant Lockwood's memory. Sergeants Linn, Ralston, Jewell, Elison, Corporal Salor, and Private Biederbick were, separately and collectively, commended by Lieutenant Lockwoc 1 for their energy and the spirit of determination, alacrity, and willingness shown by them under all difficulties. Al- though Liun was troubled with snow-blindntss at Cape Bryant, and Frederick had a sprained knee, both were anxious to go farther. I cannot forbear adding that their excellent conduct in the field was but in thorough keeping with the general chardCters of all these men. The Eskimo F. T. Christiansen showed himself attentive, willing, laborious, and very reliable. No one who is without a practical experience of Arctic field service can fully appreciate the extraordinary energy and determination which these men must have put forth to accom- plish so successfully the task put before them. The healthfulness and adaptability of the different members of the party is shown by their return in perfect health, though, of course, physically exhausted, despite the fact that the greater part of their marches and encampments were made without the supervision of an officer. Of Sergeant Brainard Lieutenant Lockwood says : "Sergeant Brainard, both when commanding a supporting party and afterwards as one of the advance partj', showed on all occasions such good judgment, energy, cheerfulness, and willingness to promote the expedition, that I cannot commend him too highly." It is justice to add that Sergeant Brainard was, of necessity, repeatedly assigned by me, in connection with the work of the expedition, to an officer's command, and that his con- duct was imiformly such as to win commendation. Apart from his valuable services in the field, I belic'e that he possesses qualities which merit reward, and which would render his promotion to the grade of second lieutenant in the Army most suitable. I "most heartily and earnestly recommend such promotion. On June 2 Sergeant Rice and party returned. Private Biederbick's trip had been successful and i^roved that inland travel was practicable. He went sixteen miles up Black Rock Valley, the general direction of which is west-northwest (true). A lake, f ve miles long and nearly a mile wide, was discovered, which I, at the time, called Lake Heintzelman. Private Biederbick's report forms Appendix No. 54. Additional supplies were sent by dog-sledge, under charge of Private Frederick, to Sun Bay on the 3d. The same day Sergeant Jewell and Corporal Salor were sent to Cape Baird to examine the depot established the previous autumn. They returned after twenty hours' travel, being unable to find the tent, which must have been blown down — probably ditring the violent storm of January 16 — and later covered with drifting snow. On the 5th Private Connell discovered at Proteus Point, near the station, traces of previous Eskimo habitation. Search resulted in a number of relics: toggles for dog-traces, spear- heads, etc. Quite a number of other remains were found along the shore of Discovery Harbor and near Discovery Cape, which proved the possession by these natives of dogs, sledges, lamps (stone), wood (in small quantities), the porous bone of the whale, walrus, and narwhal ivory. One piece of bone-work was especially neat, ingenious, and delicate. Sergeant Brainard later found numerous traces of summer encampments on the shores of the southwest part of Dis- covery Harbor and Sun Bay (about sixteen to eighteen miles from Conger). Numerous remains of hunting implements, dog and sledge gear, etc. , were found. While indications hi h ,i «. i i I I THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. 29 o O ■s E were in general of summer encampments, one hut, about five feet square, of flat stones, seemed a habitation of more than transient character. It had sides about one and one-half feet [.457'ii] high ; the roof had fallen in. Sergeant L,inn and Private Bender were sent, the 5th, to explore Black Rock Valley, and ascertain its practicability as a wagon or sledge route to Lake Hazen. They returned the 9th and reported that the lake could be reached with wagon, but only with great difficulty. They had reached a point where water drained inland, and whence what was thought to be the eastern end of Lake Hazen could be seen. A large glacier, which divided into four streams, coiild be seen, and two small lakes were discovered. Sergeant Linn's report is Appendix No. 55. On the 8th samples of water were obtained from eight different strata of a paleocrystic floe- berg, which was about thirty feet (9'") in thickness and above the ordinary ice. These samples were necessarily abandoned at Fort Conger. June 9, Sergeant Gardiner and Private Schneider were sent with the dog-team to Cape Beechey to secure depot B against summer floods, while Sergeant Rice accompanied them to depot A, Cape Murchison, for photographic work. They all returned on the nth and reported both depots to be in good condition. June 10, Lieutenant Lockwood with Sergeant Brainard and ^"kimo Christiansen — all of whom were but nine days returned from the Discovery of Hazen coast — left with the dog-sledge AnloiiH'tte on a tentative trip down Archer Fiord. As the snow was melting freely when they started — temperature during the day as high as 38° [3.3° C] — it was not to be expected that much distance could be made. Lieutenant Lockwood reached Hillock depot in a march and a half, whence, as the water on the ice was from ankle to knee deep, he returned, bringing to Conger the pemmican, bacon, and compressed tea — articles useful for future work. During the trip three musk-oxen, two geese, and three hares were kiljed. He reached Conger the morning of the 15th. He found at Hillock depot only eighty-four rations in cases. There were no signs of the one hundred and twelve rations in bags, nor of the notice relative to them left by Lieutenant Archer, R. N. Near the station two musk-cattle were killed on the rath and seven on the 13th; the latter on the very summit of Uie Sugar Loaf, a very precipitous mountain, eighteen hundred feet [549™] high. Among this herd were four musk-calves — two bulls and two heifers. They were captured and brought to the station, and in a few days were tame, tractable, and thriving. These calves were successfully raised, largely from the efforts of Privates Long, Frederick, and Connell. It was my intention to send them to the United States by the relief vessel of 1882, but three of them dying late in October I found it necessary to kill the fourth. The 13th was marked as being the first day on which the temperature had not fallen below freezing (0° C.) since August 17, ten months less four days. Taking advantage of the spring tides from the 17th to the 19th, the launch Lady Greely was moved into a tidal crack. She had remained safe and undisturbed on the inner ice-foot since September. On June 24, leaving Lieutenant Lockwood in charge of the home station, I started on a trip inland into Grinnell Land, taking four men, two of them as a supporting party. By the i8th all snow had disappeared from the ice in the harbor. From the 28th to the 30th the straits showed large lanes of water, and occasionally fields of ice were in motion. On the 30th a party — with difficulty, and for the last time during the season — reached Bellot Island over the ice. On June i a purple saxifrage {Saxifraga oppositi/olia\ June 2 a willow {Salix antua\ June 5 a sorrel {Oxyn'a tmi/or>nis\ Time 11 a cochlearia {Cochlearia officinalis)^ were found in flowers. Other plants followed in rapid succession. Game was more plentiful than in May. One seal {Phoca harbata\ eight hares, two ptar- raig- • two geese, twenty dovekies, twenty-two ducks (eider, king, and long-tailed), and four- I i 5 )!l TOE LADY FRANKLIN HAY EXPEDITION. teen musk-cattle were killed during the month. Two dead wolves— evidently poisoned the previous winter — were found, (ieese — the first sign of Arctic sunnner — were seen on the 3d, and on the 4th water ravines were running freely. The regular magnetic, meteorological observations, and tidal readings were continued through the month. Means from hourly observations: Barometer 29.930 [760.2°"°]; temperature, 33.12° [0.6° C.]; ma.ximum temperature, 53° [11.7° C.]; minimum temperature, 13.2° [—10.4° C.]. The maximum is the highest ever observed in June by any Arctic expedition north of the seventieth parallel, while the minimum is the lowest of any known June in or north of Smith's Sound. The mean is not noticeable, but is 0.6° [.3° C] higher than that noted by H. M. S. Discovery in 1876 at Discovery Harbor, Fort Conger. The harbor-ice remained stationary at a thickness of fifty-two inches [1.321'"] from the 1st to the 2ist, but afterwards, with astonishing rapidity, diminished to twenty-nine inches [•737'"] by J"ly I. The health of the command was excellent during the month. Sergeant Rice sprained his ankle on the 25th, but recovered rapidly. 'i :ii 11 JULY, 1882. At 00'' oo", Gottingen time, July i, magnetical readings were commenced, conformable as far as one instrument would permit, to the programme drawn up by the Hamburg Inter- national Polar Conference. The readings made were as follows : Daily observations each hour for declination, five readings at intervals of a minute being made as recommended by Weyprecht ; on the ist and i5tli of the month five-minute readings of declination, with twenty-second readings for the selected hour; intensity obser\'ations were necessarily made on the 2d and i6th, there being no duplicate instrument. The Kew dip-circle furnished, being unsuitable for use in that locality, prevented at first observations of that character, but later it was so arranged that one end of the needle could be read. To avoid any niisaiiprehension in this matter it seems best to state that a dip-circle was made esjiecially for work at the Lady Franklin Bay expedition, with transverse instead of upright standards. The late Superintendent of the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey, Carlile P. Patterson, directed that this instrument, which Iwd accidentally been sent to the Coast Survey, should be sent me, but on opening the instruments at St. John's, Newfoundland, it was found that some error had been made and an unserviceable instrument forwarded in its place. Hourly meteorological readings from July i included complete observations except as to humidity and rainfall, which were noted every fourth hour, six times daily. Hourly tidal readings were necessarily discontinued after the end of the first year, but the time and heights of high and low tides were regularly observed the second year. The ice in the harbor showed signs of breaking up on the ist, at which time it was but twenty-nine inches [. 737"'] thick. Corporal Salor and Private Whisler, supporting party to Lieutenant Greely, returned on the 3d. The same day Sergeants Elison and Private Long visited Lake Alexandra, where but little open water was found. The 4tli of July was celebrated as fully as circumstances permitted, by the display of flags, shooting matches, base-ball, races, etc. On the 5th, owing to continued warm and wet weather, the musk-cx meat killed that summer commenced spoiling, and over fifteen hundred pounds had to be fed to our dogs. On the 6th Private Biederbick returned, having been sent back from Very River by Lieutenant Greely. Privates Long and Kllis were sent to depot B for a pair of small oars on the 7th, but finding on the shore of vSt. Patrick Bay a pair, which had evidently been aban- doned by the English expedition of i875-'76, returned with those. If' I 3 5 n •« THE LADY FUANKLIX BAY EXPEDITION. 31 On the morning of the 9th the ice in the harbor commenced breaking np. Steam was got up on the launch Lady Grtily, and she was run a short distance in the harbor. ( )n the loth slie was run twice to Dutch Island. Lieutenant (ireely and Sergeant Linn returned in the midst of a snow-storm from the trip into the interior of Grinncll Land the afternoon of the loth. The general outlines of my journey were as follows : Left Fort Conger June 26 with four men, an improvised cart being our means of trans- portation. Traveling on ice to the southwest part of Discovery Harbor, I followed up the Black Rock Vale, and, striking across the country, made camp No. 3 on Lake Appleby, in sight of and about eight miles from Lake Hazen, latitude 81° 55' N., longitude 68° 06' W., magnetic variation (observed) 103° 30'. This, with Lake Rogers and others, forms a chain which drains a considerable section of the country inland to Lake Hazen. Lake Rogers has the greatest elevation, about eighteen hundred feet [549"']. This lake although only about two miles distant from Lake Appleby, is about five hundred feet [153"'] above it. In one lake several fish, over an inch long, were caught, and on its shores a piece of lignite coal was found. Striking Lake Hazen, the party traveled about fifteen miles westward to the junction of a river, by which the lake discharges into Hall Basin, via Chandler Fiord and Lady Franklin Bay. Over the frozen surface of this river Lake Hazen had been reached the previous spring. At two points on the lake, east of the river, Eskimo relics were found, indicating at least summer encampments, but at the junction of the river and Lake Hazen, on both sides of the stream, were found the remains of habitations which evidently in previous ages had been permanently occupied. A wooden sledge (nearly complete) shod with bone, parts of hunting- gear, portions of dog-harne.ss, skinning-knife with iron blade, combs (two ornamented) com- prise the major part of the list of articles found. Narwhal and walrus ivory, porous bones of the whale, and wood were the principal substances. Bones of the musk-ox, wolf, fox, and hare in abundance, a piece of reindeer horn, and the bone of a lish were found. Quite a collection of reindeer horns was made from various poir'^' along the shores ot the lake and adjacent valleys. From this place my supporting party ^^Corporal Salor and Private Whisler) turned back, leaving me yet Sergeant Linn u 'i Private Biederbick. About twenty miles farther the wagon, before frequently disabled, broke ^^(Avn completely. The tent, and everything not indispensable, were abandoned, and we started on ; the men carrying on an average seventy pounds, and I thirty-one and occasionally seventy pounds. Two marches brought us to camp No. 8, Very River, on July i. Private Biederbick, who had overtaxed his strength in his zeal, here showed signs of sickness from overwork, and, though willing to proceed, I deemed it best for him to return to Fort Conger. It was a doubtful question whether I should send him back alone a distance of one htnidred and twenty-five miles; but to have decided otherwise would have entailed the entire abandonment of the jouniey. On Biederbick's pressing representations that he could make the journey safely I finally decided to send him, directing him to stop at one of onr caches in case he grew worse. He reached Fort Conger safely July 6. In consequence of Biederbick's return a por- tion of our provisions was necessarily cached. On leaving camp No. 8, Sergeant Linn carried sixty-four pounds and I forty-seven pounds besides my sextant. Following the southeastern side of Very River, which stream was nowhere fordable, the eleventh camp was made in latitude 81° 21' N., longitude 74° 04' W., magnetic variation (observed) 1 14° W. Just before making this camp snow was met with for the first time. Starting the next day. July 4, but finding the country covered with from one to three feet of snow, underlain with water, a few hours convinced me that much farther progress was im- practicable. Our boots, too, were nearly worn out by the rough traveling. To settle the question, I decided dropping everything but the glasses and compasses, and to climb a high mountain about four miles distant We started at 9 a. m. for the mountain, and at i p. m., 32 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. after most stretmous exertions, I reached the summit in a thoroughly exhausted condition. Sergeant Linn, owing to a lame knee, had been unable to proceed farther than the base of Mount Linn, an adjoining mountain of much less prominence. The elevation of the mountain ascended by me was forty-five hundred feet [1,372"'], seven hundred feet [213'"] higher than any other knoivn peak in Grinnell Land. I have named it Mount C. A. Arthur. From its summit all Grinnell Land seemed stretched out bd'ore me. Fortunately, after four days of clouds and rain, the weather was clear and the atmosphere in a state of visibility. Except a narrow pencil of clouds to the southward, which veiled the immediate land in that direction, while disclosing the summits of certain snow-clad peaks, scarcely a cloud was visible. No mountain beyond Mount Augur, the most westerly of the Garfield range, had before been seen. To my surprise, a second range (Conger Mountains), partly snow-clad, extended west- ward about fifty miles, and appeared thence to gradually trend northward. These mountains were separated from the Garfield range by a valley of considerable width. Between Conger Mountains and the United States Mountains (I comprise under the latter name all mountains entirely snow-clad) there was a valley which apparently widened to the westward. This valley appeared to drain into Lake Hazen by the break between the two moimtain ranges, some eight or ten miles west of Lake Hazert. No glacier could be seen in that direction. North of the Garfield range there was a valley visible north of Mount Augur [Mount Biederbick], but it soon closed to the eastward, and the range appeared to crowd closely against the Snowy range. The United States Mountains covered the noithern horizon fr ,i\\ about northeast (true) to northwest, an immense area of mountains, entirely ice-clad, about sixty miles by twenty. Their northe-n limit as seen could not average much less than sixty miles, as beyond Henrietta Nesmith Glacier, which was over forty miles distant, the range could be seen for twenty miles at least. These mountains resemble rather snow-clad, gently rounded hills, tl'.'^re being no dist'nct range, but merely a confused mass of mountains beyond mount- ains. They must have been of lower ele\'ation than Mount Arthur. From west-southwest (true) to southwest a slight depression of Hie intervening bare hills disclosed a range of mount- ains, partly snow-clad, which could not possibly have been nearer than seventy-five miles. I thought it probable they were farther distant, and that they vere situated not in Grinnell Land but on an island or land westward. Lieutenant Lockwoot's discoveries in the follow- ing year leaves no doubt that the mountains seen were those to the south and westward of Greely Fiord, possibly including the high land seen by him on Arthur Land. From northwest to southwest, within a radius of seventy miles, could be seen nothing but low hills, entirely free from snow (except within ten or fifteen miles of Mount Arthur), which were intersected with numerous ravines. Their appearance was identical with that presented by . ,e parts of country traveled over from Lake Hazcn. Due south was a prominent mountain peak, and southeast a second mountain, probably a peak of the Victoria and Albert Mountains, and nearly east what I took to be Mount Neville, with a peak just north of it. Intennediate between Mount Arthur, Lake Hazen, Chandler and Archer Fiords, only low hills, /. ^., from fifteen hundred to twenty-fivc hundred or three thousand feet, 457 to 76c or 914 meters (which were all bare, a patch of snow being exceptional), were visible. The summit of Mount Arthur was an expanse of level snow, half a mile in diameter. Trying the compass on the s'low io obtain bearings, I found eve.y mountain disnppcar from view, and standing I was unable to obtain any satisfactory readings All bearings were determined approximately from tlie sun. My stay on the summit: of Mount Arthur did not exceed twenty minutes, as I feared perishing, owing to my exhausted condition, the prevalence of a strong, cold north wind, and the absence of any sensation in my feet. Rejoining Sergeant Linn, a small cairn was erected at the base of Mount Linn, in which a record was placed. Swollen ice-cold rivers to be forded and no sun to dry our clothing, was the story of the return. F'or five days we were without dry clothing, and were obliged to THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXrEDITION. 33 get 'jtich rest as was possible from a blanket of single thickness, on moist gronnd, with ice freqnently forming around ns. In crossing the deep river in Black Rock Vale Sergeant Linn was carried off his feet by the current and escaped only by swimming. I was soaked to my breast in crossing, and only saved note-book and chronometer by holding them above my head. We nearly perished with cold after this bath while traveling to the depot on the southwest shore of Discovery Harbor, three miles or more distant. The temperature was less than two degrees [i.i° C] above the freezing-point [o° C], and a high wind blowing, which rendered progress difficult and be- numbed us with its cold. Some difficulty was experienced the next day in crossing Discovery Harbor to Fort Conger, the ice having partly broken up. At times it was necessary to wade waist deep through channels and brooks which covered the surface of the floe. The important result of the journey was the discovery of the main topographical features of Grinnell Land. The existence of an interior lake of such dimensions as Lake Hazen (which covers probably three hundred square miles), shows with what rapidity the numerous ravines must drain the country, and explains why the entire country is not ice-capped. Glaciers were seen only where the Garfield range pressed closely against the United States Mountains, evi- dently offshoots of the enormous ice-cap which covers the northern moiMitains. The vegetation of Very Valley was remarkable for its amount. At least a hundred musk- oxen were .seen in it, and on adjacent hills. That valley, for some miles up, was several miles wide and resembled many which I have seen in our territories. The valleys of the tributary rivers seemed to closely resembk the main valley. It was a matter of regret that none of them could be reached. Very River not being then fordable. This river in the lower valley was half a mile wide, with a moderate current; in the upper valley though rarely over one-eighth of a mile wide, it ran with great rapidity. Vegetation was also luxuriant on the hills and in the valleys bordering Lake Hazen, though occasionally barren hills were found. The vege- tation at Discovery Harbor, though luxuriant, seemed somewhat scanty after my return, suffering from comparison with that of the inland country. Near camp I, on Lake Heintzelman, were found, about thirty feet [9'"] above the lake, the trunks of two large coniferous (pine?) trees, partly embedded in the hill-side. One was with difficulty dug out, and proved to be ten feet [3-048"'j long and sixteen inches [.406'"] in diameter ; there were yet attached the remains of two large branches. Although partly de- composed, it served fairly as fuel. The second was too deeply covered to permit its removal. The portion seen was si.x feet [1.829"'] long and twelve inches [.305'"] in diameter. These trees were more than two hundred feet [61'"] above and nearly seven miles distant from tide- water. The presence of trees and small shells, which to that point were common, shows con- clusively that the interior valley had been at no distant day washed by the sea. The energy and endurance of Private Henry Hiedcrbick, and uspecially of Sergeant David Linn, insured the marked success of this inland journey. Sergeant Linn traveled for the last four marches outward with an injured knee, and when he reached the home station his ankles were so injured from rough travel that they were over a month healing. The exceedingly rough and trying conditions of this overland travel were such as to completely wear out all our boots, although they were new at starting. From the western part of Lake Hazen to Discover)' Harbor, over fifty miles of very rough country, Scrgea. t Linn and I carried on our backs, in addition to our camp outfits, about fifty pounds of Eskimo bone implements. T' ese relics, associated with the farthest wanderings in the past ages of the most northerly people of the world, were necessaril)' abandoned at Fort Conger, but photographs of them were saved and a ;. herewith reproduced. The farthest reached, the summit of Mount Ardiur (elevation 4,500 feet) [1,372'"], was in latitude 81° 14' N., longitude 74° W., and to reach that point at least 175 miles outward travel from Fort Conger was necessary. H. Mis. 393 A n il U fl 34 THE LADY FBANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. The magnetic variation observed at the farthest camp, about seven miles north-northeast (true) of Moiait Chester A. Arthur, was 114" W. At the mouth of Cobb River (a temporary name given to the small river directly south of Henrietta Nesmith Glacier) on the south side of L,ake Hazen, the variation observed was 108° W. On July 20, in accordance witli his request, the renewed contract of Dr. Pavy, as acting assistant surgeon of the expedition, contained a clause giving him transportation, on fi. al dis- charge, to Saint Louis, Mo. The new contract was for at least one year, and its terms were identical with the original contract. The oath of service was formally administered by me to Dr. Pavy on that day. Thin ice formed on pools near the station early in the morning and late in the evening of the 12th. From the 13th to the 15th 0.76 inch [19"""] rain fell. Sergeants Brainard and Cross reached Bellot Island by boat on the 17th. On the 22d Pri- vate Ellis reported seeing a walrus off Distant Cape. If a walrus was seen, it I'lust be con- sidered as a certain indication that the straits below to Kane Sea were unusually free from ice, a condition which, without much doubt, existed. Sergeant Brainard and party started on a hunting trip to Cape Beechey on the 23d, and returned on the 27th. They killed eight musk-cattle, twenty-two geese, and two goslings. Privates Henry and Whisler, absent at the same time at the entrance of Black Rock Vale fur Eskimo relics cached there, killed a hare and two musk-cattle. Game near the station was found in fair quantities. One hare, nine ducks, twenty-four geese, and ten musk-cattle were killed. Not \ncluded as game, may be mentioned four ermines killed and thirteen young owls captured. Two foxes were wounded but none secured. Additional Eskimo remains were found near the station on various dates. The ice in the straits naturally varied with every tide. From July 16 there had been but a few days on which a vessel reaching the southern entrance of Kennedy Channel could not have rounded Cape Lieber and entered Discovery Harbor. On the 28th a heavy gale was experienced. During its continuance (but not at its height as indicated at the station) the wind on Cairn Hill blew at a velocity of forty-eight miles per hour [21.5™] per second. Magnetical, meteorological, and tidal observations were regularly made. Means (from hourly observations) : Barometer, 29.714 [754-7"'"]; temperature, 36.82° [2.7° C.]; maximum temperature, 53° [11.7° C.]; minimum, 29° [ — 1.7° C.]. While the mean temperature is 0.4° [.2° C] lower than any recorded by any expedition in or north of Smith Sound, the extremes agree closely with others in that latitude. The health of the command continued excellent. The garden, I regret to say, proved a total failure despite all care. AUGUST, 1882. Preparations were made in the first days of the month for the arrival of the expected relief steamer. I'roperty returns were brought up to date, and copies made of all ob-ervations taken during the preceding year. During the first few days the ice broke up rapidh-, and on the 4th I was able to send Ser- geant Brainard and a party with the whale-boat i the southwest point of Discovery Harbor, to bring in the musk-cattle which had been killed there. By the 7th Hall Basin was so free from ice that I decided to visit Cape Cracroft in the laimch, with the hopes of seeing a steamer to the south. That point was reached without difficulty, and from an elevation of over two hundred feet [61™] a fine view was had to the southward. The eastern half of Franklin Island could be plainly seen, and no ice was visible to the southward except very rare floc-bcrgs of small dimensions. The sky to the southward of Franklin Island was carefully examined with glasses, and was free from any signs of an ice IL THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION 35 ^*? blink. Kennedy Channel was in effect freer from ice than we had found it in 1881. While examining the ice to the southward, Sergeant Gardiner discovered fossils to be very abundant in the rocks and a fine collection was made. No signs of a vessel aijpearing, on August 12 I ordered Lieutenant Lockwood to visit the head of Archer Fiord with the launch, and he left on the following day. His orders required him not to be absent exceeding seventy-two hours, and during that time he was to acquire such knowledge as would be valuable in connection with the proposed crossing of Grinnell Land. He left on the 13th and returned the i6th. His report of the trip forms Appendix No. 56. During his absence he killed twelve musk-o.xen, three hares, and about sixty birds, which supply of fresh meat contributed materially to our health during the second winter. Tventy-eight other musk-cattle were seen on the south side of the fiord but the launch being short of coal Lieutenant Lockwood did not delay for them. On the 19th, having but faint hopes of a vessel. Lieutenant Lockwood was ordered into Chandler Fiord to make a survey, and Dr. Pavy at the same time was ordered to examine Daly Peninsula for an overland route from Cape Baird southward to Cape Defosses or Carl Ritter Bay. Lieutenant Lockwood left on the 30th, but being unable to cross Archer Fiord to land Dr. Pavy at Cape Baird, was obliged to return, but left the following day, landing Dr. Pavy at Cape Baird and proceeding to Chandler Fiord, whence he returned on the 23d. He was unable to reach the extreme end of Chandler Fiord owing to the large amount of heavy ice )'et in it. He succeeded, however, in surveying the eastern half of the fiord, and Sergeant Rice obtained two excellent photographs, showing the fiord to the eastward and to the westward. Lieutenant Lockwood's report forms Appendix No. 57. Sergeant Brainard was ordered, with five men, on August 25, to bring the whale-boat from Cape Beechey, where she had been cached the preceding year. The party returned with the boat on the 27th, just after Lieutenant Lockwood had left in the steam launch for Cape Baird to bring back Dr. Pavy and Sergeant Ellison. Dr. Pavy found that the valley near Cape Baird extends to the ' ' divide' ' at a point about five miles from Cape Defosses, from which point another broad wide valley of easy grade descends to Kennedy Channel. The valley near Baird was filled with a river which I named Pavy River. The river at four points enlarges into lakes of moderate size. From an elevation of seven hun- dred feet [213'"] at Cape Defosses, no ice could be .seen in Kennedy Channel, or as far south as the eye could reach, a distance of about thirty-five miles. The farthest point reached was our depot in Carl Ritter Bay. No written report of this trip was made by Dr. Pavy, but a report from Sergeant Ellison forms Appendix No. 59 and Dr. Pavy's orders. No. 58. On August 28 I gave up all hopes of the ship, and ordered Lieutenant Lockwood to pro- ceed with the launch to the head of Archer Fiord for exploration, and to leave the ■whale-boat with a depot at Cape Lieber, en route. A southerly gale with snow prevented his koving on the 29th, and the large amount of ice which filled the straits on the succeeding day decided me to countennand his orders. On the 31st the harbor was filled with pack-ice, and as young ice had commenced forming slowly, I decided to lay up the launch at Dutch Island. The party was very successful in obtaining game during August. Thirty-three musk- cattle were killed, twelve of which had been obtanied by Lieutenant Lockwood in Archer Fiord, as already stated, and eight killed by Sergeant Long in St. Patrick Valley. Eleven hares, two fiord seals, thirty-seven ducks, thirty-two ptarmigan, thirteen dovekies, and about seventy-five smaller edible birds were also obtained. The mean temperature, 35.3° [1.8° C], was unusually high for an Arctic station, and remarkably so considering the latitude of Fort Conger. An unusually high maximum, 47.8° [8.8° C], was recorded on the 21st, and a mininunn of 22.8° [ — 5.1° C] on the 3i3t. The temperature fell permanently below 32° [0° C] on the morning of the 29th, one day earlier than the preceding year. Observations were continued during the month with the customary regularity. 36 TUK LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. . SEPTEMBER, 1882. On September i it became necessary, in view of the non-arrival of a relief ship, toarranpje for a second winter in accordance with e.\isting supplies. Vegetables, milk, sugar, and flour had been previously used at pleasure and without limit. To insure equitable distribution through the coming year the following weekly allowance was necessary : Vegetables, forty-two ounces; milk, nine ounces; sugar, twenty ounces; flour, cornmeal, etc., forty-seven ounces. Bread, salt meats, molasses, apples, and other fruits in natural juice, butter, pickles, preserves, jellies, and many other articles remained in sufficient quantities to render their limitation for the second year unnecessary. On September r we camenear losing our launch owing to its having been anchored in an insecure position near Dutch Island. I fortunately visited her early that morning, to inspect her condition, and succeeded in obtaining assistance in time to save her; however, some small stores were spoiled through her partly filling with water. On the 2d I commenced sjstematic work ; arranging my reports and obser\'ai"ons in such a manner that complete records could be easily transported in case a boa. ;.,.irney in 1883 should be necessary. This work was continued unremittingly until August 5, 1883, and thereby the complete scientific observations were reduced to such condition that they were ultimately brought in safety to the United States. On the 3d the sun set for the first time, and on the ensuing day preparations were made fbr winter by replacing the inside windows. The launch was secured fov the winter during the spring tide of the 17th. On this day Sergeant Israel while skating broke through the ice and came near drowning. He was rescued with some difliculty, suffering, however, no harm from his immersion. Lieutenant Lock' 'jod on the 24th was sent, at his own request, up Black Rock Vale with dog-sledge, to ascertain whether autumn travel was possible inland. He returned on the 27tli, bringing a musk-ox killed by Christiansen some three miles above Lake Heintzelman. That lake was found covered with clear smooth ice already a foot [. 305"'] thick. The trip showed the general impracticability of sledging to Lake Hazen overland. During the month one musk-ox, two hares, three seals, and three ptannigans were killed and two foxes captured. By the early part of the month all birds had departed, except our regular habitant, the ptarmigan, and an occasional owl or raven. The station was visited on September 30 by a bear, which was not seen, iK^wever. The mean temperature was 18.1° [ — y.y° C], with a maximum of 27.4° [ — 2.6° C] on the 5th, and a minimum of o°.7 [ — 17.4° C] on the 21st. The minimum occurred on the same day on which the temperature fell below zero [ — 17.8° C] in 1881. The early part of the month was unusually warm, the first eight days being three degrees [1.7° C] warmer than for the corresponding period in 1881. A great deal of open water was seen in and around the harbor and in Robeson Channel until aftt r the 20th. OCTOBER, 1882. On October 2 Sergeant Linn was reduced to the grade of private for disrespectful lan- guage. Save this indiscretion. Sergeant Linn's conduct was irreproachable during his entire service, and a year later I reappointed him sergeant. On the 2d a bear was seen, which had several times visited the station, but escaped although pursued. In coiniectiou with his appearance, restrictions were for the first time placed on the men's movements, and for absences for greater distances than a third of a mile TUK LADY PKANKLIN HAY EXPEDITION. 37 verbal authority was required. No other bear appearing, the limits were increased to two miles late in January, the sergeant on duty, however, to be notified when going further than three-quarters of a mile. The temperature was observed below zero [ — 17.8° C] on the 4th, for the first time that autumn. Auroras were frequently noted during the month. The sun left us on the i6th and darkness increased so rapidly that Jupiter was visible at local noon of the 24th, and four first-magnitude stars on the 28th. In view of the evident inclination on the part of many of the men to keep their beds excessive hours, an order was issued forbidding the use of the beds on week days between 8 a. m. and 3 p. m. , except in special cases. As soon as the ice around Distant Cape would bear, which was the i.ith of October, parties visited Cape Beechey and St. Patrick Valley to bring in the musk-meat cached at those points. Unfortunately an entire ox had been eaten at Cape Beechey, probably by bears and foxes ; and fully half of the meat in St. Patrick Bay had been devoured by foxes, which had effected an entrance into the stone huts which had been built to protect it. The firstoccultat] k: obtained was observed on the 24th. It was theoccultationof (y/V>f/«w/. The immersion took place at S"* 27™ 29.9', by chronometer (Bond & Son's) No. 198, which was fast of local sidereal time 4'' 32" 24.7'. On the 26th systematic observations were commenced of the temperature of the surface sea- water, with a view to ascertaining whether the temperature of the flowing tide varied from that of the ebbing tide. The health of the party continued excellent, and at the end of October but two men were taking medicine — one for a slight attack of indigestion, and the other, iron for his blood. I inaugurated a series of lectures for the winter, and was assured co-operation from Dr. Pavy and Sergeant Israel, my astronomer. On October 22 Dr. Pavy, at his expressed desire, was ordered to proceed as far southward as practicable along theGrinnell Land coast to look for caches or any signs of a visiting vessel. He was accompanied by Sergeant Brainard and Eskimo Jens. The harbor-ice increased a foot [305'"'"] in thickness during the month and was 23^ inches [59711111] thick on November i. The fresh-water ice on Lake Alexandra, however, had attained a t? ickness of thirty inches [762™'"] by the 25th. No game was killed during the month, though a ptarmigan and an owl were seen on the I2th. The bear on the 2d was the only one seen at Conger, although tracks were noted occasionally on the shores of Robeson Channel. Three of the musk-calves, kept with great trouble by us, died during the month, and a fourth one was killed. The cause of their death was attributed by me to lack of exercise, caused by their being necessarily penned up the greater part of the time to protect them from the dogs. A .series of observations on the velocity of sound at low temperatures was commenced during October, and continued during the entire winter. Observations and results form Appendix No. 137. On October 15 observations of high and low waters were commenced on fixed tide-gauge No. 6, which was located for winter observations. The mean temperature for the mouth was — 7.8° [ — 22.1° C], with a maximum of 14° [ — 10° C] on the ist, and a minimuiu of — 23.5° [ — 30.8° C] on the 19th. The temper- ature fell permanently below zero [ — 17.8° C] on the i^th; sixteen days earlier than in the preceding year. The month v.as e ^ inches [38.1"""] in thickness during the month, measuring nearly 58 inches [1.473'"] o" M^Y i. at which time the ice on Lake A.cxandra (fresh water lake) was found to be 79.8 inches [2.027"'] thick, at a point where a sounding gave 33 feet [10. 058"°]. 44 THK LADV FUANKLIN IJAV KX PEDITION. The mean temperature for the moiitli was -14.8" [ — 26° C], beiiijj nearly as cold as the preceding; month of March. A nuiximum of 6.6° [ — 14. i" C] was noted on the 29th, and a minimum of —37.3° [ — 3^-5° C] on the 3d. It was the coldest April on record except 1876, on the same coast. The severity of the weather is shown by the fact that the temperature did not rise above /ero[ — i7.8o°«C.] until the 27th, except for a siiifjle observation on the 22d. The month was an unfortunate one for K^me, only two hares and four ptarmijjan beinjf killed. A snow-bird was seen on the 25th, ten days later than in 1S82. Nearly a pound of fresh meat, however, was available daily per man, and the health of the command continued good. MAY, 1883. On May 6 a party was sent to Cape Reechey under charge of »Sergeant Jewell, and a second to Cape Haird under Sergeant (lardiner (Appendix No. 76), to make a series of simul- taneous tidal -readings in connection with the readings made at Fort Conger. On May 23 Sergeant Jewell again visited Cape Heechey, and a second set of simultaneous readings were made at Cape Heechey, Distant Cape, Dutch Island, and Conger. These ob- servations were deemed by me of special importance for determining the co-tidal lines of Robeson Channel and Ha;! Basin. Sergeant Jewell also made observations for latitude and longitude, which, reduced by my astronomer. Sergeant Israel, showed Cape Beechey to be in latitude 81° 52' 29" N., and longitude 00'' 07'" 22.3' (in time) east of Fort Conger. Sergeant Jewell's orders and report form Appendices Nos.74 and 75. Sergeant Israel, the astronomer of the expedition, visited Cape Baird on the 9th, to determine carefully the latitude and longitude of that point. The latitude, determined from a set of circum-meridian observations, was 81° 32' 27.7" N., with a possible error of plus or minus 0.9". The cape was 00'' 00'" 57.5' east of F^ort Conger (in time). This determination makes the latitude of Cape Lieber about 81° 28' N. Sergeant Israel's orders and report are Appendices Nos. 77 and 78. During his trip to Cape Baird Sergeant Gardiner, in accordance with his instructions, made careful and extended observation of the many floe-bergs grounded at that point, with a view to determining if their structure was a stratified one. I had previously examined all floe-bergs easily accessible from the station, and especially those which had split since grounding. The angles of cleavage were almost invariably per- pendicular and extremely regular. In examining the interior of recently split floe-bergs plainly defined strata were visible in every case. The upper part of the ice was somewhat more opaque and of a whiter color than that below. Many of these paleocrystic floe-bergs resembled very closely in color and structure the recently fallen ice from the Henrietta Nes- mith Glacier, on the north side of Lake Hazen, which was examined by me in May, 1882. Sergeant Jewell reported seeing a very large floe-berg on the North Greenland coast in April, 1883, which had thirteen very marked and clearly-defined strata. He examined it very closely, in accordance with my general instructions on that point. Sergeant Gardiner's observations at Cape Baird showed stratification to be general and it is probably universal. His instructions and report form Appendices Nos. 76 and 79, and Sergeant Jewell's, bearing on the same subject. Appendix No. 80. Sergeant Jewell visited Cape Beechey May 21-24, for tidal and time observations (see Appendices Nos. 81 and 82). Simultaneous tidal readings at Capes Beetiiey, Baird, Distant Cape, and Conger developed peculiarities which appeared to render further observations necessary, and on the 28th Ser- geants BrainardandCiardiner, with dog-team, were sent to Cape Cracroft to make simultaneous observations in connection with Distant Cape and Fort Conger. These observations with preceding tidal readings have been transmitted to the Superintendent of the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey for reduction and discussion. During these trips Sergeant Gard- (n ^ Ilf ►n f THE LADY' FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDrTION.. 4lfi^' iner made, under tr}-ing circiimstauces, a sijecial examination and collection of the fossils at Cape Cracroft. The collection of fossils was very extensive and complete, but was necessarily abandoned at Conger, as well as the fossils at Cape Baird. »Sergeant (iardiner's report on this subject forms yVppendix No. 84; Sergeant Brainard's general report, Appendix No. S3. Sergeant Brainard';; report is particularly interesting from his account of fossil trees, over a foot [305"""] in diameter, found bj- him, at an elevation of .some eight hundred feet [244"'] on Judge Daly peninsula, .several miles south of Cape Baird. vSergeants Gardiner and Mrainard are entitled to much credit for the success of this trip. The trip was a dangerous one owing to the advanced season of the year and the decayed condition of the ice. Its execution would not have been directed but for my unwillingness to allow an apparently vexed scientific (pie.s- tion, which could be determined by direct observation, to remain unsettled on the ground that the performance of such duty entailed danger. On May 26 Lieutenant Lockwood returned from an exploration westward, after an ab- sence of thirty-one days. The party was iniierfect health and excellent spirits. His journey had been remarkably succe.ssfid. He explored the valley at the head of lUla Bay, and find- ing no practical route in that direction proceeded to Beatrix l?ay, and from that point suc- ceeded in cro.ssing (irinnell Land, reaching the salt watci from the I'olar Ocean at the head of a fiord named by him in the field Greely Fiord. He traveled down the fiord some twenty-five miles and reached a point in 80° 48' N., 77° W. After waiting three days on less than half rations for fair weather, he noted on a clear day the apparent termination of Grintiell Land, on the north side of Greely Fiord, in Cape Brainard. To the southwest, at a distance of some sixty or seventy uiiles, a projecting point of high land could be seen, which apparently was .separated by a wide fiord from the southern part of Grinnell Land. It .seemed jjroper to me to name this point Cape Lockwood, in honor of its discoverer, and to designate the new land as Arthur Land, in honor of Chester A. Arthur, then President of the United vStates. In addition. Lieutenant Lockwood discovered that the southern half of Grinnell Land is covered by an immense ice-cap, which extends from the head of Klla Bay to the .southern shores of Greely Fiord. A marked peculiarity of this ice-cap was its unbroken and perpendicular front which ranged from one hundred and twenty-five to two hundred feet [38 10 6i"'] in height. Such was its abrupt character that but two places, in a fifty-mile journey along its front, were observed where it would have been possible to scale it. During this journey Lieutenant Lockwood and Sergeant Brainard displayed energy, endurance, loyalty, and pluck, which were hardly second to their record of the previous year on the shores of the frozen Polar Sea. For nearly a week the entire party lived on less than half rations in order to render as complete as possible their work of exploration and discover)-. Lieutenant Lockwood's loyalty in connection with this journey impressed me with par- ticular force. He deemed the crossing of Grinnell Land an impossibility, and in starting out had entreated me to permit him instead to examine the glacial s)stem of I^ake Ilazcn. His persistency, energy, and fidelity in attempting the route from Beatrix Bay after failing in Klla Bay, evidenced most strongly his determination that his commanding ofiicer's idea of the prac- ticability of the cro.ssing of Grinnell Land should not fail through him. This trip, in common with all our extended journeys, entailed marked privations and serious hardships, to wliich, in the interest of their work. Lieutenant Lockwood and Sergeant Brainard voluntarily added a serious reduction of rations for .several days. Lieutenant Lockwood'.'-, full and very interesting report, with his instructions, forms .Appendices Nos. 85 and 86. Sergeant Brainard's share of this work showed the .same ster- ling qualities evinced by him the previous year, and in eoiLseiiuence he was reeommended by me in 1882 for a commission in the Army. On IVIay i Dr. Pavy, who was serving as the naturalist of the expedition, was directed to furnish, by May 31, a;; complete a report concerning the natural history of the expedition as 46 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. was possible. A description of all specimens on hand was to be given, and ^uch notes made as wonld facilitate the speedy rendering of a report on the retnrn of the expedition, or as would secnre similar resnlts if their abandonment should be necessary. This order was deemed essential to prevent the entire loss of our labors in case of a contemplated retreat by boats. He was also ordered to furnish, by May 6, six complete sets of botanical specimens, so arranged that they could be securely transported and duplicates be intrusted to each officer of the expedition. Instructions on this subject form Appendices Nos. 87 and 88. The collection of plants was not delivered tnitil May 22. The collection was an exceedingly poor one and was inisatisfactory in its condition and necessitated a new collection that summer. The lichens were not furnished initil the 25th, and only after repeated applications for them. The provisions of my letter of May 2, requiring a report by letter regarding certain deficiencies in the specimens and their arrangement, were never complied with by Dr. Pavy. On June i, my written orders of May i having been entirely disregarded, it became necessary for me to order Lieutenant Lockwood to relieve Dr. Pavy of his duties as naturalist. (See Apnendix No. 89.) The small amount of work done by Dr. Pavy in nearly two years, and the unsatisfactory con- dition of the specimens whet) transferred to Lieutenant Lockwood, are shown by Appendix No. 90. In extenuation of my re^jponsibility for such a condition of affairs, I should say that Dr. Pavy's repeated verbal reports to me led me to believe that the specimens obtained had been properly preserved and that full and complete notes had been made regarding them. Many of the gaps in the natural history notes were subsequently filled by extracts drawn almost entirely from my private journal and that of Sergeant Rlison. During this month we lost nearly three hundred pounds of fresh meat, which had become ainted in its interior though perfectly good externally. The month was hardly to be called a good one for game. Eleven ptarmigan, two seals, seven hares, and three musk-cattle were obtained. A musk-ox was killed by Lieutenant Lockwood during his western trij), and the t\v "I others on the 30th of May by Private Cotniell, who had been sent with Eskimo Jens and dog-sledge hunting to Black Rock Vale. The health of the command during May was good, though probably a number of the men who disliked the seal meat suffered somewhat by their abstention from that part of our diet. The thickness of the harbor-ice on June i was 54.4 inches [1.382"']; a decrease of only about 2.5 inches [63.5'"""] during May. The mean temperature for May was 14.8° [ — 9.6° C], with a maximum of 32.3° [o.2°C.] on the 22d, and a minimum of — 13° [ — 25° C] on the ist. The severity of the weather during the month may be imagined from the fact that but for one hour was the temperature above the melting-point of ice. The sno .v'-storm of May 27 and 28 was noticeable as being the longest continued snow at the station ; it lasted for sixty-two hours. The 30th of May was considered as a holiday, and in hoiuir of our "Decoration Day," and in fortunate default of any graves of our own, the head-boards of the Arctic dead of the English expedition of i875-'76 were decorated. The initiative in this matter, as in the pre- ceding year, was taken by Privates Frederick and Long. These marks of appreciation and honor for the foreign dead must be considered of greater value as coming from the rank and file of the expedition than if they had been suggested by the ofRcers. JUNE, 1883. On June 8 Ih '"'Vyi ^- '••'' own request, was sent with the dog-sledge to Cape Paird to examine the petriiactiuns and fossils in that neighborhood}. He returned on the 9th., having been unable to fad li-rui. No \M"itte)'. repot' was made by hiui of the trip. The ('>':r- ileu(.e uncur S<.vgt aiit Linu \'as .sent to Cajje Murchison on the loth to bring in some suppu-is ki.ied{:d for ll.c party. THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. 47 Private Connell was sent with Eskimo Jetis's sledge to the Hcllows on a hunting trip on the 17th. He returned on the 20th with three hundred and eighty-five pounds of meat. He had found a herd of sixteen cattle at the head of the Bellows, eight of which he killed, very judiciously sparing the rest, owing to the slight chance of the meat being brought to the sta- tion. Privates Schneider and Ellis were sent later, each with a dog-sledge, and succeeded in bringing in over six hundred pounds of meat. These trips were made with great trouble, as the river in the Bellows Valley was very high and was forded with great difficulty ; owing to rapidly melting snow the stream was ilsing with stich rapidity at the time of the last crossing that it was useless to attempt another trip. This meat was a great lienefit and satisfaction to the party, and \/as especially a boon to those who disliked seal-meat. During the month other game was killed in considerable quantities. A seal, two haica, twelve brent-geese, forty-two ducks, twenty-one dovekies, fifteen ptannigan, ar.d many other smaller birds, were obtained. The first flower, a purple saxifrage {Saxifrnga oppositifolid)^ was fotuid in blossom June 4, three days later than in the preceding year. The list of flowers found, with their dates of blossoming and other information, forms Appendix No. 130. The first brent-geese appeared on the 5th of June ;'.'.id the ducks on the 6th. An authen- ticated egg of the knot {Triiiga caniitus) was procured on the 9th; the first authenticated specimen ever known. The longer axis of the egg was one and one-tenth inch, and the shorter about one inch. The ground color was a light pea-green, closely spotted with small brown specks about the size of the head of an ordinary pin. Steep ravines, with southern exposure, commenced discharging freely on the 4th, while those of a lower gradient and other location were yet frozen. Hunting near the station was followed almost daily, but the only distant trips, besides that of Private Connell, were made by Private Biederbick, who alone visited the Bellows and St. Patrick Valley. While hunting near Distant Cape, Private Ellis discovered on the 26th the remains of an old Eskimo sledge. It was about four feet long [1.219™], of wood, ap- parently pine, shod with the bone of the whale, and was found about forty feet [12'"] above the sea. vSergeant Erainard visited Cape Baird on the i6th to examine the ice to the southward, and to obtain game if possible. The only water visible on the 19th from the summit of Cape Lieber was a narrow lane to the northward of Joe Island and an open space near Distant Cape and Cape Murchison. Sergeant Brainard brouLdit in a fine and large collection of fossils and pet' rifactions, gathered near Cape Baird on D On June 30 Lieutenant Lockwood s arranged. It should here be stated, that, during .on. Lieutenant Lockwood carefidly and systemati- collection of this and the previous summer, num- and packed them in the best manner (except the plants, which were in my own chargeV .md had the cases so arranged that they could have been loaded in an hour on the rel- <• earner. The specimens as packed will remain many years uninjured by weather or anim s. Sergeant Elison, by his habits of application and tmtiring zeal, added many fine specimeu> of birds ready for mounting, and Sergeants Brainard and Gardiner contributed remarkably fire collections of fossils, while I obtained very many marine specimens and a large number < > fossils from the shale at the coal mine. To Sergeant Elison's interest and skillful handliii'^ was also due the excellent condition of the botanical specimens brought back, most of which were gathered by me, but all of which were beautifully pressed and dried by him. The list of birds seen during the t ^■; years, and notes thereon, form Appendix No. 131. A similar list as to mannnalia forms Appendix No. 129. collections in natural history, classified n his brief service as naturalist of the expei 1 cally brought together in order the lariic bered and labeled all specimens, arrang Peninsula, iiitted, with Appendix No. 91, an inventory of III 48 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. The party were in good health at the end of the month. Over a pound and a tentli of fresh meat daily per man had been tiscd. liconomy in fuel had been practiced during '.he month by the discontinuance of fires, except in one room, 1)et\veen 9 p. m. and 5 a. m. ; so that six tons of coal remained on hand at the end of the month. The rotten condition of the sea-ice forbade hauling any more by sledge from the coal mine. A heavy northeasterly gale occurred on the 24th, during which the wind rose to a velocity of forty-two miles per hour [18.8'" per second]. The first rain of the season occurred on the 26th, but the first month of summer ended with a touch of snow. The harbor ice decreased 16.5 inches [418.39"""] in thickness, measuring 38.9 [998.08"""] on July I. The mean temperature of June was 32.4° [0.2° C], with a maximum of 39.6° [4.2° C] on the 17th, and a minimum of 22.7° [ — 5.2° C] on the 2d. June 23 was the first day on which the temperature did not fall below 32° [0° C.]. JULY, 1883. On July I Sergeant Brainard was sent, with Kskimo Christiansen and dog-sledge, to Cape Lieber to examine the channel southward. He returned on the 3d, and reported the ice to be solid both north and south of Cape Baird, except occasional water-lanes and an open space aromid Distant Cape and Cape Murchison. The new ice surrounding the heavy floes, how- ever, had melted or broken away, and he was confident that the next heavy gale would break up the main floe in Hall Basin and Kennedy Channel. Lieutenant Lockwood and Sergeant Brainard Avere sent into the interior on July 1 1 for a trip towards the northwest in order to acquire a knowledge of the physical conditions of the country, and to ascertain definitely the topography between the northeast end of Lake Hazen and Lincoln Bay. They returned on the 14th. Privates Biederbick and Henry accompanied them one day to assist in carrying their packs. Lieuteiio.ut Lockwood succeeded in pene- trating about thirty miles to the northwest. From his farthest point a very large glacier could be seen about fifteen or twenty miles distant from them to the northwest. PNcecdingly bad traveling caused them to return, as another day's journey would have added litt.'e or nothing to their information. Lieutenant Lockwood, by permission, delayed making his report until he could finish a map of the surroundings of Fort Conger in conjunction with this trip. Owing to his death the map and report were not made. In lieu thereof. Sergeant Brainard's report, the materials of which have been drawn from his own and Lieutenant Lockwood's journals, forms Appendix No. 92. On July 9, having been informed by Acting Assistant Surgeon Octave Pavy of his deter- mination not to renew his contract for the year, v/liich he considered as ending on July 20, he was directed to turn over, before lea\ing the United States service, his property, official diary, and collections in natural history, to Lieut. James B. Lockwood. These articles were to be delivered packed, boxed, and addressed to the Chief Signal Officer. The orders to Dr. Pavy, and the correspondence had with him in this connection, form Appendices Nos. 93, 94, and 95.* On July 19 Dr. Pavy not only positively refused to transfer his diary, but, although his contract did not expire until the succeding day, declared that he was out of the service, that my orders were not binding upon him, and he refused to obey the formal order of arrest until a file of men was called to enforce my authority. Formal charges and specifications were furnished him on the 19th, previous to the expiration of his term of .service, and he was held in service to await the action of the War Department in his case. The charge and correspondence of these dates form Appendices Nos. 96 to kx), inclusive. *'riie directions for Dr. Pavy to turn over his diary was in acco'dancc with tho orders of thn War Department organizing the c :pi'(lition, which left me no discretion. These instructions read: " '^acli member m' the party will be furnished with a diary, in which he will record all such incideiUs as sjiecially interest him. 'I'liis diary will not lie open t > inspection until delivered to the Chief Signal f iftlcer for his sole use in compiling the full record of the expedition." it»# THE TiADY FRANKLFN RAY EXPEDITION. 49 Every consideration was shown Dr. Pavy in connection with his arrest ; limits of a mile in any direction from the station being granted him. He broke his arrest, howe\ er, on the 26th of July, as well as on other occasions, bnt owing to onr isolated condition I did not deem it advisable to place him in close arrest. It shonld be said to the credit of Dr. Pavy's hnmanity that he continned to give medical advice to snch members of the party as requested it, although when jjlaced in arrest he positively declared that he would not render such service in the future to any one of the expedition. I deem it my duty to call attention to the fact that, contrary to Dr. Pavy's written statement that his diary consisted of letters to his wife, a trans- lation of his notes in the office of the Chief Signal Officer since my return shows this statement to be erroneous. No domestic or family matters were alluded to, and instead of letters only disjointed and disconnected data without sequence of dates or subjects were found, which were devoid of scientific or even medical comment. On the 28th the launch was tried under steam from Dutch Island westward in the harbor, and everything was found to be in good working order. Stores and supplies were gradually carried to Dutch Island during the month for the purpose of facilitating the prospective retreat by boats. On July 29 the abandonment of the station was announced in orders (Appendix No. loi) to take place on August S, or as soon thereafter as practicable. Sergeant Brainard was directed to make an inventory of the stores on hand which were to be abandoned, a list of which forms Appendix No. 102. Sergeant Brainard during the two years' scr\'ice at Fort Conger has served as orderly-sergeant and as connnissarj-scrgeant of the expedition. In filling these thankless and difficult positions he had shown as much tact, equable temper, and good judgment as he had energy and determination in the field. It was with great reUictan:e ihnt I decided on the abandonment alive of our dogs. In case we were inisucccssful in c 1 luav journey, as had been Hayes, and Kane (in his first trip), and returned to Conger, these putient, willing laborers would be indispensable to obtain fuel and meat. Several barrels of pork were itnheaded and all the barrels of oil opened, so that a couple of months' food could be reached with some difficulty. The ice broke up gradually during the month; the upper part of Kennedy Channel broke on the 24th. The harbor-ice may be said to have broken up on July 30. On Jtily 8 Sergeant Cross discovered a coal seam above the old coal mine in the bed of the same water-course. It had long been evident that a seam of such kind must exist, as very large pieces of coal had been seen at many points a long distance above and at a much greater elevation than the old mine. The surface of coal exposed was reported to be about twenty feet [6""] high and twenty feet [6'"] long. The month was not a good one for game. Only three hares, two geese, thirteen ducks, and several small birds were procured. Our last musk-meat was eaten on the 24th, but suffi- cient bones remained for soup until August i. The game being scarce, but one meal from game was had during the last week of the month, Private Long was discharged for expiration of term of service on the 23d, and re-enlisted on the 24th. The party remained in excellent health, with the exception of Steward Biederbick, who was troubled with rheumatism. On the 30th Lieutenant Kislingbury turned over to me, as a personal contribution for the expedition, two large tea-cans full of lichens. He had devoted much of his leisure time dur- ing the two years in searching for lichens and mosses, and this collection must have been verj' complete and \'aluable. He took a strong interest in making it complete, and showed his good- will by his tender of it. Unfortunately it was necessary to abandon this with other bulky an-l weighty collections. H, Mis. 393 4 - I.!' 50 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY KXPKDITION. The month ended in southerly gales, which did ninch to break up the harbor ice in Hall Basin and Robeson Channel. Unfortunately the ice in Archer Fiord remained fast, and no possible chance of crossing it appeared. Every preparation, however, had been made for the abandonment of tlio station at the earliest moment. With this view, five thousand pounds of carefully screened and selected coal had been bagged and cached on Dutch Island, for use in the launch during the retreat. The mean pressure was 29.865 [758.6"""] for July, and the mean temperature of the month was 37.2° [2.9° C], with a very high maximum of 52.4° [11.3° C] on the 12th, and a mini- muni of 28.8" [— 1.8° C] on the 6th. The reduced magnetical observations for the first year form Appendix No. 139^. The other magnetical observations have been transmitted to the ITnited States Coast and Geo- detic vSurvey for redtiction and publication. ^Meteorological observations for the two years form Appendix No. 138. AUGUST, 1883. By tliL 3d the records of the expedition had been packed and arranged for retreat. These records, weighing about fifty jiounds, were packed in three tin boxes, which were soldered up and thus made water-tight. One box, to be in my charge, contained the originals of reports and field journals, which had been filed with me in connection with the various work of exploration, and also my completed journals. A second box contained the original sheets of magnetical and meteorological observations and other official papers. The third box, which was to be in Lieutenant Lockwood's especial care, contained letter-press copies of all mag- netical and meteorological observations and records of the pendulum transits, the star-sheets, and the official collection of plants. Of necessity, all property, papers, and records, not indispen.sable to the history of the expedition, were abandoned, as well as all private property. All the standard thermometers were luxed carefully for transportation, and the pendulum, carefully soldered up in its water- tight case, was also boxed, in order to render its carriage in jn uninnned condition certain. The condition of the party for the coming retreat was of general health and strength, despite their arduous labors for two years amid nuequaled cold and darkness. Of the .seven hundred and twent_ -one days spent at Fort Conger, two hundred and sixty-eight had been marked by the total absence of the sun. On two hundred and sixty-two days one or more sledge parties had been \bsent in the field, on journeys entailing from two to sixty days' absence, and some three thousand miles had been traveled by such parties; an unequaled latitude to the north had been attained; to Greenland over a hundred miles of new coast had been udf^ed; and to the westward Grinnell Land had been crossed, its exterior surveyed, its physical geog- raphy determined, and the contours of its northern half fixed with considerable certainty. This geographical work had been done without disaster, without physical injury to any one, and for its prosecution no part of the scientific work for which the expedition was formed had been neglected or abandoned. It seems proper to make these statements in view of the many assertions that all Arctic work is of necessity unduly dangerous or fatal. 'J'he pn^- gramnie of international observations had been carried out as fully as instruments and circuui- stances would permit, and during the two years there had, on an average, been made and recorded daily full five hundred observations. A selected party was told off on tiie ist, with orders to be in readiness for prompt departure for Cape Baird, as I intended sending to that point at the earliest practicable moment the launch, loaded witli coal, provisions, and all the most important collections and records, leaving the main party to follow, when ever\thing important had been transferred. The journal;^ of the men were, as a rule, turned in, sealed, and addressed to the Chief Signal Officer. They were THE LADV FRANKLIN HAY KXPKDITION. 51 packed witli forty-ci^lit pIioto