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GEOLOaiCAL SURVEY OF CANADA

G. il. DAWSON, C.M.G., LL.D., F.R.S., Director

EEPORT

(IN EXI'LOKATIONS IN THE

)

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LABRxlDOK PENINSULA

.VI.ON(; THK

EAST MAIN, KOKSOAK, HAMILTON, MANICUAGAN

AND

PORTIOI^S OF OTHER EIYEES

IX

1892-93-94-95

BY

A. P. LOW, B. Ap. Sc.

OTTAWA

PRINTED BY S. E. DAWSOX, PRINTER TO THE QUEEN'S 5I0ST

EXCELLENT MAJESTY

1896

To

Geohok M. Dawson, C.M.G., LL.D., f.R.S.,

Director Geological Siu'vcy of Canada.

Sir, — I have the honour to submit herewith a report of my work in
the Labrador Peninsula during the seasons 1892, 1893, 189-4 and 1895.

I have the honour to be,
Sir,
Your obedient servant,

A. P. LOW.

Note. — All bearings mentioned in this Report refer to the true
North. The magnetic variation at the mouth of the East Main River
is 17° west*and increases as the river is ascended till at Lake Nicliicun
it is nearly 30° west. From Nichicun to Fort Chirao the variation
increases gradually to 15° west at the latter place. At the mouth of
the Hamilton River the variation is 38' west, and along the river it
ranges between 30° and 38° west, while along the Romaine River it is
about 30° west, and at Lake Mistassini aVjout 20' west.

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'er
an
on
of
it
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REPORT

OX

EXPLORATIONS IN THE UBRADOR PENINSULA

AI,OK<i THK

EAST MAIN, KOKSOAK, HAMILTON, MANICUAGAN AND
PORTIONS OF OTHER RIVERS.

IXTRODUCTORV.

The present report is based mainly upon the observations made along SovirccN of
the routes of exploration followed during the seasons of 1892, 1893, 'nf"rnitttion.
1891 and 1895. The knowledge so gained has been supplemented by
information obtainefl from officers and servants of the Hudson's Ray
Compiny, Indians, and other persons acquainted with the Labrador
Peninsula. Free use has also been made, in regard to certain subjects,
of the information to be found in the writings of Mr. Lucius M.
Turner,* Dr. A. S. Packard,! ^"tl Mr. W. A. Stearn8,J who have
all spent some time on the southern and eastern coasts and there
collected much valuable information relating to the history, physical
geography and natural liistory of those regions. Observations on the
natural resources of the peninsula made by officers of the Geological
Survey in former explorations, have also, when necessary, been incorpor-
ated in the text ; a list of these explorations is given at the end of the
historical notes.

Acknowledgments are due to Mr. C. C, Chipman, Conmiissioner of Aeknowletlif-
the Hudson's Bay Company, and to Mr. Peter McKenzie, for circular mentof a««»8t-
letters to the various officers in charge of posts along the routes tra-
velled, and to the following gentlemen in charge of these pos's : Messrs.
J. Broughton, D. Mathewson, Wm. Scott, C. Sinclair, J. A. Wilson,
A. Nicholson, H. M. S. Cotter, John Ford, J. Eraser, J. Gordon, W.
Miller, J. Iserhoff and J. Corson, for their generous hospitality, valuable
information and efficient aid, to which the success of the explorations
has been largely due.

* List of birds of Ungava, Prot. V. S. Nat. Mviseimi, V'lII., ISSTj.

Kthnulogy of Cngava, Annual Reijoi't l^ S. Bureau of Ethnology, 1S80-!XI.
t The Labrador Coast, New York. 18itl.

* Labrador, lioston, 1SS4.

ance.

6 L

LAIlRADOn PENINSULA.

WiPlk of

HHHiHtnlltH.

PrcvioiiM
leportH.

TlolltH fnl-
IdW.'d ill 1S!)2.

Rimte fol-
lowed in 18113
and 18!U.

During tho season of 18t)2, .Mr. A. H. D. Runs, J[.A., iiutcd ivh my
iissisUnt and besidts currying out otlior varied duties, niado a largo
collection of plants, wliicli added greatly to tlio hotauital knowledge
of tho eastern watershed. Tlio nan\os of these plants have been in
eluded in the list given in an appendix. In 1>*0.'?, 1S(»4, and 189"), Mr.
D. I. V. Katon, C.K., acted as assistant and topographer, uiul it is
entirely to his careful work that the exact surveys of these years are
due. Mr. Eaton, since his retuin to Ottawa, has also compiled the nuip
which aciompanies this report.

Itineraries of the various journeys made in the course of these
explorations have been printed in the Summary Reports of the Geo-
logiciil Survey Department for 1892, 1894, and 189"), and only a brief
outline of the routes followed need in consequence be given here.

In 1892, tho routes traversed were from Lake St. .Tn!in, up the
(^'hamouehouan Hiver to its head, thence north-east through three
large lakes to Lake Mistassini. From that lake the east channel of the
Rupert River was descended some lifty miles, to a portage-i oute cross-
ing through small lakes to the East .Main River fifty miles northward.
This stream was carefully surveyed downward for three hundred miles
to its mouth on the east side of James Bay. James Bay was crossed to
Moose River, and that stream ascended to its hoiid, where the (Cana-
dian Pacific Railway was reached, making in all a canoe trip of over
thirteen hundred miles. In 1893 and 1894, th^i party remained in
the field during the winter. A start was again maiie from Lake St.
John, and the chief branch of the Chaniouchou;".n River was ascended
to its head near Lake Mistas-ini. The same route as thnt followed the
previou>< year, was taken to the East Main River, where the survey
was commenced at the end of that ye'-'s work, and carried ujiward Id
the head of the river, wh' re a crossing was made to the upper
waters of the Big River, and tfiat stream was descended to Lake
Nichicun. A portage-rouie was then followed to Lake Kaniapiskau,
and the' Koksoak River, which flows out of it, was descended to its
mouth at Ungava Bay. In this manner a canoe trip through the
centre of the Labrador Peninsula from south to north was accom-
plished. From Fort Chimo, tho Hudson's Bay Company's steamship
" Eric " was taken to Iligolet on Hamilton Inlet. From Rigolet,
canoes were taken to Northwest River, at the head of the inlet,
where the early winter was pissed. From the 19th January to the
middle of May, the whole time was employed in hauling the outfit,
canoes and provisions on sleds up the Hamilton River as far as
the Grand Falls, some two humlred and fifty miles above tho mouth
of the river. The months of June and July were occupied in the

i

!

f

HHKV.OIM DIHCOVEUIKM ANIt KXPLOIIATIONH.

7 L

explunitioii of tliu Asliuaiiipi Iniincli of the Hftiiiiltoii Itivcr to within
II iiuridi'cd iiiii(;H of Liii<H Kiitiiiiiiiskau, iind with the explorntimi of .

Lak« Micliikamau. In August a start was inacio for the coast by af-
cendiiij^ the Attikonak brancli of the Hamilton River to its head, and
thence crossing to tlie Uomaine River. Tiiis stroaui was descended to
within one liundred miles of the coast, whence a portage-route was fol-
lowed to the St. John River, and by way of this river tlie Gulf of 8t.
Lawienio was reached. The total mileage of travel for 189.'5-91 was
5160 miles, made up as foUow- ; — In canoe, lJ9(iO miles; on vessel,
1000 miles ; with dog-teams, 500 miles ; and on foot, 1X100 miles.

The summer of 1895 was spent in exploring the Manicuagan River, Koutc fol-
flowing southward into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, which it enters about '""'' ' '" '**'"'•
240 miles below Quebec. This stream was geologically explored
to the head of Mouchaiagun Lake, where the surveys pre-
viously made by the Crown Lands Department of Quebec ended.
Above this lake the main stream was surveyed, by micrometer, to
its head in Hummit Lake in latitude 5.5' N., and track-surveys were
carried over portage-routes on various branches of this river and the
head-waters of the Outardes River and of the Big River of Hudson
Ray. In so doing a good idea was obtained of the country about the
central watershed of the peninsula, as well as considerable additional
information in regard to the geology and mitural history of tlitx region.

The subject matter of this report is separated into two part-;. — The Arranpnii'iit
first contains a general summary of the observations made, and the con- "^ "'""'''■•
elusions reached from these. Tt is consequently more concise and read-
able than the other part, which consists of detailed" descriptions of the
routes, the rocks noted, and other observations for the use of future
explorers in the regions traversed. In the part relating to the geology,
a sunnnary of the chief observations and deductions is given in con-
nection with each formation, before the detailed observations are
entered upon.

In the Appendices will be found lists and short notes on the mam- \p,|,.„(iice„
mals, birds, fishes and insects known to exist in the interior of the
peninsula ; also a complete list of plants of Labrador, compiled by
Mr. J, M. Macoun, from the various collections made by members of
the staff of the Geological Survey and others. A meteorological record
for 1893-94 is also given in Appendix VII.

Previous Discover ien and E.vpl orations.

The first European authentically known to have visited the eastern ]};„,.„,..
shores of .•^.merica was Biarne, the Norseman, who, in 990, sailed

H r.

I.MIKADOR I'KXINHl'l-A.

Leif.

south-east from Greenland, ami nkirting tlio nliores of Labrador and
Nowfoundland, proceeded Houtliward prol)al)ly as far as Nova Scotia.

In 1000, Loif, the son of Eric the lied, the jirst settler in (Jreen-
land, followed Hiarno's track and landed on the coast of Labrador,
which, from its desolate rocky coast, he called Ilelluland, " Strong
Land."

Lutfxt N(irH"
viiyiiBt'H.

MzkiiliH'V,

iiii'ii.

t7i)liii'Cal)(it.

Following Lief came several expeditions of these hardy Norse navi-
gators, who passed southward to " Vini'land the good." The latest
Nor.se \oyage was in \'M7, after which date knowledge of the Ameri-
can continent wa.s lost for nearly one hundred and Hfty years.

According to Humboldt, Sy.kolney, a Pole, is said to have inad a
voyage to Greenland and Labrador in 147C.

About this time, or shortly afterwards, the lias(iue fishermen, in
search of whales, crossed the Atlantic to the shores of [..abrador and
Newfoiiiidland, and appear to have been met there by theCabots and
Cortereal.

In 1497, John Cabot from Mristol, in .search of a western pas.sage
to Cathay, sighted the coast of Labrador or Newfoundland. In the
following year, his son, Sebastien Cabot, sailed from England and
skirted the whole Labrador coast to beyond Cape Chidley, where
he turned .southward past Newfou!»(lland, Nova Scotia and New
England in hope of finding a passage to the eastward.

Cortereal, who sailed from Li.sbon in 1500, reached Newfoundland,
proceeded thence northward, and probably rediscovered Greenland.

In 1504, the town of Brest was founded by the French on BradoreHay,
near the Strait of Belle Isle. In 1517, fifty vessels called here, and
in the height of its prosperity, about IGOO, Brest contained two hundred
liouses and a population of about 1000 persons.

St. Lawrenci'. Denis, of Honfleur, and Aubert, of Dieppe, are said to have explored
the St Lawrence as far as the Saguenay in ISO') and 1508.

A Portuguese map of 1520, has the name " Lavrador " applied to
Greenland, while the unseparated coasts of Labrador and Newfound-
land are called " Bacalhaos " or codfish in the Basque tongue. The
name Labrador is derived from the Portuguese word for labourer, and
was given to the coast because Cortereal brought home a cargo of
natives as slaves.

Cortereal.

Brest.

Labrador.

.Tac<|iu'.'<
Cartier.

In 1535, Jacques Cartier explored the Gulf and River St. Lawrence
as far as Hochelaga, and wintered at Quebec. The Saguenay River
was examined by Roberval in 1543.

I'llKVIOlS niHCOVEIIIKM ANIi KXPI.OIIATIONM.

0 t

Mercatoi's iimj) of I.jCU, nIiowh the coast of L«hrador mid I'ligavd
Day, or Hudson Miy; and as his iufniination waH obtaiiH'(i from
Portugiu'Sf HiiiircfH, it is cvich'iit that the ttshormen of timt country
had previously [leiietrated IludMiiii Strait.

In loTT, Martin Froljisher si;j;iited the northern coast of Labrador,
in aliout hititude oS , and tiience sailed northward a short distance
into Hudson Strait.

Tile cod (islierv of Labrador and Newfoundland had grown so rapidly
that in l")7M, l,'j() l-'reucii, l)esidcs '200 vt-ssels of other nations, were
engaged in this industry, together with thirty lliscayan wlialers.

In loHG, John Davis passed along the Labrador coast and dis-
coveri'd two openings, Davis fnlet, in latitude oli N. and Ivutoko
(llauiilton) [nift in latitude .")4 IW N.

Hudson Strait was penetrated to Ungava JJay, or Hope's Advance,
by Weymouth in lOOU.

In IfJOt't, Chaniplain estalilished the first permanent settlement on
the St. Lawrence, at (Quebec, a small trading post having been built
in 1000 at Tadoussac.

Henry Hudson, in 1010, pa.ssed through the straits and wintered
in the southern part of the bay which bears his name. The following
spring he was cast adrift, oil' the east coast, by his nmtinous crew.

In the following year, a ship was sent to his rescue under command
of Sir Thomas Button, who entered Hudson Strait by a narrow chan-
nel .sotith of Cape Chidley, crossed the bay, and wintered at the
jnouth of the Nelson liivei".

About the year lO.'lO, the town of Mrest and four leagues of coast
on each side was granted to a noble named Courtemanche, who had
married a daughter of Henry IV. ; and the Eskimo, who had given
the French much trouble, were expelled from tho Gulf shores al)out
the same time.

The (juest of the north-west passage brought out James and Fox, in
10.31, to Huilso 1 Bay, where James wintered on Charleton Island.

In 1041, the missionary, Jean de Quen, ascended the Saguenay and
discovered J^ake St. John,

The Sovereign Council of (^>uehec, in 1050, authorized Jean 'Jourdon
to make discoveries in Hudson Bay. He proceeded there, took pos-
session in the name of the French King, and made treaties of
alliance with the Indians.

In 1658, a lease of exclusive trading, hunting and fisliin/ privileges
was given by the King of France to Sieur Demaure. Ann lease

.MiTt'iiiDrH
iiiit|i,

Mitrtiii
FniliiMlii'i-.

KiHJiHrii'H.
.Iiihii |)ivvi».

Weymouth.
Clmni|ilain.

Henry
Hudwjii.

Sir ThoniaH
lliitton.

KHkiino ex-
pelled friiin
the (iulf of
St. Lawrence,

•linnet iind
Fu,\.

.lean liour-
tlon.

Le Traiti' de
Tado\inMac.

10 L

LAURAUOR PENIXaULA.

was called "Le Tniite de Tadoussac,'' and the territory to which it
applied was called the King's Domain. It extended along the St.
Lawrence from Isle aux Coudres to a point two leagues below Seven
Islands, and included the country northward to the heads of the rivers
draining into the St. Lawrence. The trading stations established in
this territory were balled "Postes du Roi," or King's Posts. The lea^ie
passed to the "Compagnie des Postes du Roi," and was renewed every
twenty-one years. After the cession of Canada, the lease was con-
tinued in the same manner by the English government. When it was
renewed by the Hudson's Bay Company, in June, 184*2, for another
term of twenty-one years, the Crown reserved the right to subdivide
the country into townships for purposes of settlement. The Hudson's
Bay Company's lease was ended by limitation in 1859.

JVic Daliloii. In 1661, Pere Dablon, a Jesuit, and Sieur de Valliere were ordered
by d'Argenson, at that time Governor of Canada, to proceed to the
country about Hudson Baj'. They went there apparently by way of
the Saguenay and Rupert rivers. Subsequently, the French company,
in their dispute with the Hudson's Bay Company, claimed that they
had at that time erected a small post at th' mouth of the Rupert River
for trade with the Indiana, who had asked at Quebec that a missionary
and traders be sent among them.

In 1663, the Indians from about Hudson Bay again returned to
Quebec to renew their former request for traders, and Sieur de hi
Couture, with five men, proceeded overland to the bay, took pos.ses-
sion in the King's name, noted the latitude, planted a cross jrnd
deposited His Majesty's arms, engraved on copper, at the foot of a
large tree. In the same year, Sieur Duquet and Jean L'Anglois also
visited the bay. and set up liie King's arms by orders of d'Argenfon.

In 1667, Radisson and Chouart dit Groseilliers ascended to Lake
Superior, and thence crossed to Hudson I5ay. They returned to Quebec,
and proposed to the merchants to conduct ships to Hudson Bay, but,
their proposal being rejected, they went to Paris, where they met with
no better success. From Paris they were sent by the British ambassa-
dor to London, where their proposal was well received by certain mer-
chants. In 1668, a small vessel was fitted out under command of
Zachray Gilham, who, accompanied by the two Frenchmen, sailed to
the southern part of the bay, and wintered in a small building called
Fort Charles, at the mouth of the Nemiskaw, or Rupert River.

In 1669, on the return of Gilham to London, Prince Rupert and
others applied to King Charles II. for a charter, which was granted
them under the title of the "Governor and Company of Adventurers-
Trading from England to Hudson's Bay."

iSicur (Ic lii
Coutuif.

Radisson and
Chouart.

Hudson's Bay
Company.

•1

PREVIOUS DISCOVERIES AND EXPLORATIONS.

11 L

In the following year, the company sent out Chas. Bayly to estab-
lish a post at Rupert River. Ho was accompanied Vjy Chouart and
Radisson, and remained in the country, thus inaugurating the first
permanent English settlement on Hudson Bay.

In 1674, Charles Albanel, a Jesuit missionary, arrived at the Eng-
lish settlement with letters from the Governor of Quebec, who had
despatched him in 1672, overland from Quebec, to see what the Eng-
lish were uoing on the bay. The route x'oUowed by Albanel was up
the Saguenay River to Lake St. John, thence by the Chaniouchouan
River to the height-of-land and Lake Mistassini, and down the
Rupert River to its mouth. An account of liis trip is given in the
Relations of the Jesuits, and is the first tlesciiption of this portion of
the country.

In 1075, outposts were established at Moose and Albany, and a
depot on Charleton Island, where the ship from England discharged
her cargo and took on board the furs from the various posus, brought
there in sloops.

By 168"), tiie company had forts at Albany, Moose, Rupert, Nelson
and Severn ; also a small post on the East Main, or " Ison-glass River,"
where a mica mine was worked, but was soon abandoned as unpro-
fitable.

In March, 16S6, the directors of the French Company, on represen-
tation of the harm done to their trade by the English on the bay,
obtained from M. do Denonville a body of Canadian and regular troops,
under the command of M. de Troye. They were sent overland,
reaching Hudson Bay in June, and captured Forts Rupert, Moose and
Albany. This was the beginning of a desultory warfare, carried on
with varying success, between the French and English for a number of
years, uiitil the Treaty of Ryswick in 1697. The seventh clause of
the treaty restored to each belligerent the possessions held previous to
this war. The eighth clause appointed commissioners to examine and
determine the rights of either of the kings to places in Hudson Bay ;
" but the possession of tlmse places which were taken by the French
during the peace that preceded the present one, shall be left to the
French by virtue of the foregoing article." In consequence, the only
post left to the Hudson's Bay Company was the fort at Albany.

In 1700, the Hudson's Bay Company addressed a communication to
the Lords of Trade in reference to their boundaries. They proposed
the Albany River, or the 53rd parallel of north latitude, as the
boundary on the west coast of the bay, and the Rupert River as the
boundary on the east coast. The French were ready to accept the

Firttt settle-
ment on
Hudson Bay.

Pere .^Ibnnel.

Kstablisli-
iiientof Moose
and Albany.

Warfare be-
tween Frencli
and English
at Hiulsou
Bay.

Boundary
claimed by
Hudnon"N Bay
Company.

12 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Tifivty of

Utivcht.

55th parallel of north latitude, but this the company refused to agree
to. In answer to the Lords of Trade, in 1701, the company made the
further offer as to the limits between themselves and the French : —
" 2. That the French be limited not to trade by wood-runners or
otherwise, nor build any house, factory or fort, to the northward of
Hudson's River, on the east main or coast."

blatters remained unsettled until the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713,
when the French ceded all their rights to Hudson r>ay to the English.

Bnuiuliuy In 1712, the company in a memorial to the Lords of Trade, and later

Hudson Aav •" 1714, proposed for a settlement of the boundary between their
Coiupany. territory and the French, " That the said limits begin from the
island called Grimmington's Island or Cape Perdrix (Cape Mugford)
in the latitude of 58J degrees north, which they desire may be the
bou-.jdary between the English and the French on the coast of
Labrador, towards Rupert's Land on the east main, and Nova Britan-
nia on the French side." — " That a line supposed to pass to the south-
westward of the s.aid island of Grimmington or Cape Perdrix to the
great Lake Miskosinke at Mistoseny, dividing the same into two parts
as in the map now delivered " — " and from the said lake to run south-
ward unto 49 degrees north latitude."

Delisle'siiia)'. The map made by Delisle in 1703, shows the knowledge pos.sessed
by the French at tht time of the Treaty of Utrecht of the interior
of the Labrador Peninsula. On it is marked Lake Mistassini, dis-
charging into James Bay, and also into Lake 8t. John. Pletipi,
Manicuagan and Nichicun lakes are in their respective places, but the
last is made to drain through Lake Pletipi into the Outardes River.
At the head of the Peribonka River, there is a large lake named Ou-
takouami, which discharges also into the East Main River, and a
large stream Howing northward with the following note : — " R. que
]es sauvages disent tomber dans la mer du nord apri-s GO lieues de
cours :" and the bay is shown in part near latitude 5-">°, with a bre.ak
between it and " Bay du Sud " (Ungava), which extends southward
between latitudes GF and 57 . Hamilton Inlet is marked by a long
narrow bay, without any large rivers at its head. The country north-
ward of the East Mfiin River and the eastern part of the southern
watershed appear to have been unknown. Indefinite and rough as
the topography of this map is, still it is greatly in advance of the Eng-
lish maps published al)out this time, which show only Lake Mistassini
and the Rupert and East Main rivers in the inter'or of the Labrador
Peninsula.

\i

]

PREVIOUS DISCOVERIES AND EXPLORATIONS.

13 L

1

From the Treaty of Utrecht until after the cession of Canada, Hudwni's Bny
the Hudson's Bay Company appears to have confined its trade and
investigations on the east side of the bay wholly to the coast. In
1732, a small post was re-established at the mouth of the East Main
River, which was shortly afterwards made the headquarters of the
east coast, and continued as such until after 1820, when two districts
were established on this side of the bay, witJi headquarters at Rupert
and (ireat Whale rivers. About the time of the re-establishment of
East Main, a post was opened on Richmond Gulf for trade with
the Eskimo, but was soon abandoned, after two massacres by the
natives.

An ordinance respecting the limits of the King's Domain, issued Trading ix)sts.
at Quebec in 1733, makes mention of the posts of Tadoussac, Chekou- ij^„„„i„_
timy, Lac St. Jean, Nikaubau, Mistassinoe, Papinachois, Naskapis,
River Moisie and Seven Islands, showing that the lessees were well
established throughout that territory. No records are obtainable of
the other districts, seigniories, and fur leases granted at Quebec, but
the. above may be taken as an example of the manner in which the
French traders had penetrated and established posts throughout the
interior of the Indian countrj'^, many years previous to the English occu-
pation of Canada. The traders and " coureurs des bois " must have
travelled far into the interior of the Labrador Peninsula, where they
lived tlie gieater part of the time with and like the Indians, only re-
turning to Quebec for a short time every two or three years. Much
of th ! information obtained by these men was never recorded and is
consequently lost, while the little that was written is very difficult of
access.

In 1732, Joseph Normandin was sent by the governor to explore .Josepli Xor-
and survey the region about Lake St. John. He ascended the '"""fl'".
Chamouchouan River to Lake Nikaubau, and mentions Peltier post
as well as one on Ashouapmouchouan Lake, which was first established
in 1690.

Shortly after the conijuest of Canada, the North-west Company was x„ith-\vest
formed, and appears to have acquired, among others, the lease of the Company.
" King's Domain." Under its vigorous management, the fur trade in
the North-west and Canada rapidly increased, and this company soon
became antagonistic to the Hudson's Bay Company, which now began
thrt establishment of inland posts. The first of these, inland on the
east side of Hudson Bay, probably dates from this period ; it was
situated on the East Main River, about three hundred miles above its Post inland on
mouth, at Birch Point, where a portage-route leads southward to Lake Rj^er'"'*^ '"

1

14 t

LAIIRADOR PENINSULA.

-i<

Labrador
Coinipauy.

Mistassini. Subsequently, and before the amalgamation of the Hud
son's Bay and North-west companies, this post was removed to the
outlet of Lake Mistassini, and again to its present position on the south-
west bay, where the North-west Company also had a post on a long
narrow point, a few miles to the southward. This appears to have
been the only inland post of the Hudson's Bay Company established
in Labrador prior to the amalgamation of the companies in 1821.

Shortly after the conquest of Canada, the town of Brest, and one
hundred and fifty miles of the north shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence
to til ' westward of that place, was granted to the Labrador Company
of Quebec, with exclusive rights to the fisheries and fur trade. In
this manner the entire north shore of the gulf was closed to private
enterprise, and long remained so, as the coast to the westward of the
Labrador Company's concessions was held by the seigniors of Mingan,
whose grant extended to the eastern limit of the King's Domain.

Labrador In 1763, the southern and eastern coasts of Labrador were placed

jurisdiction of under the jurisdiction of the Governor of Newfoundland ; and the
eastern and northern boundaries of the province of Canada were
defined by the St. John River to its head, and from there by a line
drawn through Lake St. John to Lake Nipissing.

In 1770, the Moravian missionaries first
on the Atlantic coast.

Newfound-
land.

Moravian
Miswionarit's.

settled among the Eskimo

Majt>r Cart-
wright.

Labrador

Coast.

Hamilton
Inlet.

Andre Micli-
uud.

Labrador
again attached
to Newfound-
land.

About the same time Major Cartwright made settlements at Cape
Charles and Sandwich Bay, bringing with him a number of people
from Dartmouth, for the salmon fisheries and trade with the Eskimo
and Indians.

In 1773, the coast of Labrador was restored to the jurisdiction of
the Governor of Canada, on account of disputes between Newfound-
land and the Labrador Company.

In 1777, the first English entered Hamilton Inlet for purposes of
trade with the natives, and found there the remains of posts erected
by the French prior to the secession. The first posts were established
on the inlet, by a Quebec Company, in 1785.

Andre Michaud the celebrated French botanist, in 1782 passed
through Lake St, John and reached Lake Mistassini. He had intended
to descend the Rupert River to James Bay, but was obliged to return
from Lake Mistassini, on account of the lateness of the season.

In 1809, the eastern coast of Labrador was again attached to the
Government of Newfoundland, but the area of coast was reduced, and
extended only from Anse Sablon northward to Hudson Strait.

f

•]

PREVIOUS DISCOVERIES AND EXPLORATIONS.

15 L

KollmeiKtcr
nnd Knioch.

Labradoi-
Cuinpanv.

Kxplorationa
Kast of Hud-
Hoii Bay.

Rev. ^[^.

St<!inhaur.

In 1811, the Moravian missionaries Kollnieister and Kmoch, ex-
plored the nortliern Atlantic Coast and Ungava Bay, and reported
favourably on the climate and soil of the latter place.

The Labrador Company was dissolved in 1820, and that part of the
Gulf shore previously under its control wivs thrown open to settlement
and private fisheries.

After the amalgamation of the Hudson's Bay and North-west com-
panies ill 1821, the policy of the formed appears to have changed ; and
the country to the east of Hudson Bay was shortly after explored, posts
1)eing established throughout the interior of the peninsula.

In 1814, the Rev. Mr. Steinhaur published in the Transactions of the
Geological Society a short description of the Atlantic coast, together
with notes on the various rocks found about the Moravian mission
stations.

Between 1821 and 1824, James Clouston was employed in exploring .Tames Cloua-
the country east of Hudson Bay. There are no available note* or '""^^ explm-
records of his travels, and all that remains is a map on a small scale,
showing the routes that he followed. These embrace the East Main
Biver to the Tichagaiiii Branch, a few miles beyond the old post of
Birch Point, two portage-routes between the East Main and Rupert
rivers, the Rupert River and Lake Mistassini, and the routes to Waswa-
nipi on the Nottaway River. The original map is at Great Whale
River post, where a tracing of it was made in 1888, which is now in
the Geological Survey office.

In 1824, a party was fitted out at Moose Factory to proceed over- EHtablish-
land to Ungava Bay and there establish a post ; but it was not until ch"nio
three 3'ears later that this was accomplished by Dr. Mendry, who
coasted ali ng the east shore to Richmond Gulf, and then passed inland
to Clearwater and Seal lakes, thus reaching the head-waters of the
Larch Branch of the Koksoak River, which was descended to near
its mouth, and Fort Chimo there first established. This trip is the
basis of Ballantyne's " Ungava " a popular story for boys, A map made
of the route by Dr. Mendry, is at present at Moose Factory, and a
tracing of it is in the Geological Survey office ; the part between Clear-
water Lake and the forks of the Larch River has been used, in the
compilation of the map accompanying this report.

In 1824, the Governor of Newfoundland was empowered to institute
a court of civil jurisdiction along the coast of Labrador.

Between 1827 and 1829, Admiral Bayfield made charts of the Admiral Bay-
Atlantic and St. Lawrence coasts for the British Admiralty.

f

16 L

LAUUADOR HENIXSI:L.\.

Johu.McLi'iin.

Discovery (if
the (iraiul
Falls, Hamil-
ton River.

Fort Nas-
caupee.

Map of the
interior of
Labrador
Penins\ila.

List of trading
posts.

In 1827, the first survey of Lake St. John was made for tlie Quebec
Government by Larue.

In January and February of 1838, Jolin McLean, then in charge at
Fort Chimo, crossed overland to Hamilton Inlet, where tiie Hud-on's
Bay Company had established posts in 1837, passing on the way
through Lake Michikanmu. Ho retraced the route and reached Fort
Chimo again on the 20th April. The same year apust was established
at Erlandson's Lake, which appears to have been situated on the
headwaters of the Whale River. Another outpost was also established
on the Geprge River.

In 1839, McLean again started across to Hamilton Inlet with
canoes, but reached only the Grand Falls of the Hamilton Hiver, and
thus had the honour of being the first white man to view this mighty
cataract. Not having a knowledge of the portage-route past £he falls,
he was obliged to return withoi reaching his destination. In the
following summer he was more successful, and reached Hamilton Inlet
with canoes, as he also did in the two following years. An interesting
account of McLean's trips and also much information concerning the
country, is given by h in in his book entitled " Twenty-five years in the
Hudson's Bay Territory."

In 1840, Fort Nascaupee was established on Lake Petitsikapau,
drawing its supplies from Hamilton Inlet, and the po-;t of Erlandson's
Lake was then abandoned. This was followed in 18-").i hy the tem-
porary withdrawal of the Hudson's Bay Company from Fort Chimo
and other posts belonging to it.

In 1842, John Beads and John Spenspr, at Xichicun and Lake
Kaniapiskau, compiled a map of the region surrounding these place
giving the various branches and lakes of the rivers draining south-
ward, westwa.d and northward, from the central portion of the
peninsula. This map was found at Nichicun in 1893, and is now in
the (reological Survey office. It has been used largely in the compila-
tion of the unsurveyed parts of the map accompanying this report.

In his evidence before the select committee of the House of Com-
mons on the Hudson Baj^'s Company, 1&.57, Sir George Simpson made
a return of the various posts and number of Indians attached to each,
throughout the territories of the company. The following list shows
the posts then situated in the Labrador Peninsula: — Chicoutimi,
Tadoussac, Isle Jeremie, Godbout, Seven Islands, Mingan, Musquarto,
Natasquan, Northwest River, Rigolet, Kibokok, Great Whale Biver,
Little Whale River, F, rt George and Rupert House, all located on
the coast, and Mistassini, Temiskami, Waswanipi, Mechi.skan, Pike

}

I

1

4

•1

PREVIOUS DISCOVERIES AND EXPLORATIONS.

17 L

A. F. Blaik-

luck.

Surveys by
(iuel)tc Crown
LuikIh De-
partment.

Il^nited States
CoaHt Survey
Eeli[)8e Sta-
tion.

Henry Yule
Hind.

Lake, Lake St. John, Nichicun, Kaniapiskau and Fort Nascaupee in
the interior.

In 1860, A. F. Blaiklock surveyed the Mistassini and Chamou-
chouan rivers flowing into Lake St. John. Since that date, under the
direction of the Quebec Department of Crown Lands, all the principal
rivers of the southern watershed have been carefully surveyed to near
their sources ; and but little work remains to be done to complete the
map of the rivers of this slope.

The same year an expedition was sent by theUnitdd States Govern-
ment, and a station was established on the Atlantic coast in latitude
59' 54', to observe a solar eclipse. In the report of the United States
Coast Survey, 1860, a short account of the voyage, with notes on the
climate, together with a chart of Eclipse Harbour is given by Com-
mander Alexander Murray ; and notes on the geology of the northern
coast of Labrador by Oscar M. Leiber.

In 1862, Henry Yule Hind ascended the Moisie River about 150
miles ; and wrote two volumes on his experiences and information
gathered from Indians and other sources relating to the interior of
Labrador. This book is still quoted as the standard authority on the
Labrador Peninsula.

In 18G0 and 1864, Dr. A. S. Packard visited the Atlantic coast, and a. S: Packard,
besides various earlier papers on the fauna and flora, published in
1891, a work entitled "On the Labrador Coast," which deals very
fully with the history and natural resources of the Atlantic coast, and
is a valuable addition to the bibliography of Labrador.

In 1866, the Hudson's Bay Company again established Fort Chimo, Fort Chimo
and shortly afterwards opened posts at George and Whale rivers, rt^-^stablished.
where extensive salmon and porpoise fisheries are still carried on,
besides trade with the natives.

Between 1866 and 1870, Pere Babel, O.M.I. , travelled inland from Pere Babel.
Mingan, and lived with the Indians, exploring with them both
branches of the Hamilton River, and the headwaters of many of f;he
streams of the southern slope. A map made during his wanderings,
is kept at the mission station of Betsiamites, and when considerat'on
is taken of his imperfect instruments and other disadvantages; iis
accuracy is wonderful.

About 1875, the Roman Catholic missionaries visited and estab- Roman

lished a mission for the Indians at Northwest River : and during the Catholic

' s missionaries.

two following summers. Pure Lacasse crossed overland from that place

to Fort Chimo, returning in the Hudson's Bay Company's vessel.

2

18 L

LABKADOIi PENINSULA.

Moravian
uiinHionarieg.

Abandonment
uf intnriur
trading iioHtH.

JiiriMdiction
of Newfound-
land.

Hudson Strait
exploration.

Rev. Mr.
Peck.

Lucicn M.
Turner.

R. F. Holmes,

Expeditions
up Hamilton

xi)ed
.)Ha
River.

In 1873, the Moravian missionaries published two maps of the
Atlantic coast ; the northern sheet extending northward from latitude
57", the southern sheet embracing the coast from Hopedale to Sand-
wich Bay.

With the establishment of posts on Ungava Bay, the Hudson's Bay
Company abandoned their interior posts on the Hamilton River,
and at Lake Michikamau. Fort Nascaupee and Michikamau were
closed in 1873, and the post at the head of Luke Winokapau in 1874.
The closing of the.se posts now leaves only Nichicun, Mistassini and
Waswanipi in the interior of the peninsula.

In 187G, the extent of the jurisdiction of the Government of New-
foundland in Labrador, was defined in Letters Patent constituting the
office of Governor and Commander-in.-Ciiief of the Island of New-
foundland. "All the coast of Labradoi, from the entrance of Hudson
Stra'.ts to a line to be drawn due north and south from Anse 8ablon
on the said coast to the fifty-second degree of north latitude, and all
the idlands adjacent to that part of the said coast of Labrador."

In 1884 and 1885, the Dominion Government sent a vessel to Hud-
son Strait, to establish observation stations on both sides, in order to
obtain reliable information concerning the amount and movements of
the ice.

In 1885, the Rev. Mr. Peck, of the Church Mission Society, crossed
from Richmond Gulf to Ungava Bay, following the route previously
taken by Dr. Mendry.

During 1885 and 1886 Mr. L. M. Turner was engaged collecting
birds and mammals, and doing other scientific work in the vicinity of
Fort Chimo for the Smithsonian Institution at Washington.

In 1887, Mr. R. F. Holmes attempted to reach the Grand Falls of
the Hamilton River from its mouth, but, being handicapped with a
heavy boat and a poor crew, reached only Lake Winokapau. He made
an excellent map of the river to that point, and wrote an account of
his trip, which appeared in the Transactions of the Royal Geographical
Society.

In 1891, two separate expeditions from the United States ascended
the Hamilton River, and visited the Grand Falls within a few days of
each other. Messrs. Austin Cary and D. M. Cole * who were the first
to reach the falls, had the misfortune to burn their boat and outfit,
and were obliged to tramp to the mouth of the river, two hundred and

* Bulletin American Geog. Soc, vol. xxiv., p. 1.

*i

V

■]

PHYSICAL OBOORAPIIY.

19 t

fifty miles distant from where the mishap took place. This they very
pluckily accomplished, passing unseen Messrs. Henry G. Bryant *
and C. A. Kenaston, who were on their way up the river at the time.

19 following is a list of the reports relating to the Labrador Pen- Exploration*
insula published by the Geological Suivey of Canada, from explorations tfie iJcologicul
made by members of the staff : — urvfy.

R('ix)rt, 1853-5(i.— On t\w Irtlnnd of Anticogti, and tho Mingan Islands. —J. Kichard-
aon.

ReiK)rt, lH.")7.~()n part ol
Bay, and on Lakt' Ht. .Tolui.— .1. RicliafdHon.

—On the Fauna of [lortions of tlie Lower St. Lawrence, the Sagnenay, Lake St.
John, etc.— R. Hell.

Re|K)rt, lK(>(>(i!».— On the north shore of the Lower .St. Lawrence.— J, Richardson.

Reixirt, 1870-71. — On the geology of the country north of Lake Ht. .John.— J.
Richardson.

RejMirt, 1871-72.— On exploration of Country between Lake St. .Tohn and Lake
Mistassini. — W. McOuatt.

Reixjrt, 1877-78.- Re|>ort on an Exploration of the East Coast of Hudson Bay.—
R. Bell.

Report, 187!t-8().— ReiMirt on Hudson Bay and some of the Lakes and Rivers lying
to the west of it. -R. Bell.

RejHirt, 1882-83-84. — Observations on the Coast of Labrador and on Hudson Strait
and Bay.— R. Bell.

Re|M)rt, 188.'). — Reixirt of the Mistassini Expedition. — A. I*. Low.

" —Observations on the (leology, Zoology and Botany of Hudson

Strait and Bay,- R. Bell.

Re|K)rt, 1887-88.— Reixjrt on Explorations in James Bay and the Country east of
Hudson Bay, drained by the Big, Great Whale and Clearwater Rivets.— A. P. Low.

Physical Geoguaphy.

The eastern coast of the Labrador Peninsula extends north-north- Bftundaries of
west, from the Strait of Belle Isle to Cape Chidley, a distance of Peninsula,
alxiut seven hundred miles, or from latitude 52° to latitude 60° 30',
fronting the North Atlantic. The northern boundary from Cape
Chidley to Cape Wolstenholme, at the entrance of Hudson Bay, in
a straight line, is nearly five hundred miles long, and runs about
west-north-west in direction, forming the southern shore of Hudson
Strait including Ungava Bay. A line drawn from Cape Wolsten-
holme to the bottom of James Bay, runs nearly north-and-south for eight
hundred miles, and corresponds closely to the eastern shore-line of the
peninsula. The southern boundary is arbitrary but has been taken
as a straight line extending ia a direction nearly east from the
south end of James Bay near latitude 51°, to the Gulf of St. Lawrence
near Seven Islands in latitude 50°. This line is nearly six hundred
miles long, and passes close to the south end of Lake Mistassini. From
where the line reaches the Gulf coast, in the neighbourhood of Seven
Islands, the shore-line forms the southern boundary to the Strait of
Belle Isle, with a length of somewhat over five hundred miles.

* A Journey to the Grand Falls of Labrador, Geog. Club, Philadelphia.
2i

\^

20 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Extent.

Atlantic
Count.

Formation of
iiordii.

Northern
coasts.

The total area embraced within these boundaries in approximately
511,000 8(|Uttre miles, of which, previous to the present explorations,
289,000 square miles wore practically unknown. There still remains
about 120,000 square miles of the northern portion of the peninsula,
between Hudson and Ungava bays, totally unknown to anyone except
the wandering bands of Eskimo who occasionally penetrate inland
£ron> the coast.

The Atlantic coast is exceedingly irregular, being deeply cut by many
long narrow bays, or fiords, so that the coast-line exceeds many times
the direct distance from l?elle Isle to Cape Chidley. Hamilton
Inlet is the largest and longest of these inlets, extending inland over
one hundred and fifty miles from its mouth, Among others, Sandwich,
Kaipokok, Saglek and Nachvak bays are from thirty to fifty miles deep.
These narrow fiords are surrounded by rocky hills that rise abruptly
from the v/ater to heights ranging from 1000 feet to 4000 feet. The
water of the inlets is generally deep and varies from ten to one hun-
dred fathoms. A fringe of small rocky islands extends almost contin-
uously along the coast, wlJr a breadth of from five to twenty-five miles.
(Outside the islands, the inni • banks extend seaward for an average
distance of about fifteen mil is, and on them the water is rarely over
forty fathoms deep. From tiiis it will be seen that the fiords, as a rule,
have greater depths than the banks outside the island fringe.

To account for such an apparent anomaly, it is necessary to consider
the formation of both the fiords and banks. The fiords appear to be
valleys of denudation of very ancient origin, eroded, at least in part,
when the elevation of the peninsula was considerably greater (at least
600 feet) than at present. Their remote antiquity is established by the
deposition in their lower levels of undisturbed sandstones of Cam-
brian age. The banks are likely of comparatively recent formation,
and appear to be made from material carried off the higher lands by
glaciers and deposited by them as a terminal moraine among and
outside the fringe of islands, to be subsequently flattened out by
floating ice and currents, thus filling up the deep channels at the
mouths of the fiords.

The coast adjacent to Hudson Strait and Ungava Bay has not been
examined closely, but enough is known for us to state that it is generally
bold, with highlands rising immediately from it. Small rocky islands
form a narrow fringe in many places, especially about Ungava Bay
and the coast is indented with small bays, but not to such an extent as
the Atlantic coast.

"•]

PHYSICAL OEOORAPHY.

21 L

Hope's Advance is a western extension of Ungava Bnj', as yet un- i)aiij{,.|„uii
explored. The navigation of Ungava Bay and Hudson Strait is curreiitM.
rendered dangerous to sailing craft by the strong currents and exceed-
ingly iiigh tides, the lattnr having a mean rise in Ungava Bay of nearly
forty feet, and at exceptional spring-tides they have been known to
rise sixty feet.

From Cape Wolstenholme to near Cape Jones, at the entrance to CouMt of
James Bay, the eastern coast-line of Hudson Bay is high and rocky. 1I"<'«"" Huy.
The coast between the entrance to Hudson Strait and Cape Dufferin,
a distance of nearly three hundred miles, has not yet been continuously
explored. Mosquito Bay is situated along this part of the coast, and
was formerly supposed to connect with Hope's Advance. Such has since
proved not to bo the case, and Mosquito Bay has been found to extend
inland not more than seventy-Kve miles. Between this bay and Cape
Dufl'erin, there is a fringe of islands stretching out from ten to
twenty miles from the mainland. To the southward of Cape Dufferin,
the coast-lino remains high, and an almost continuous line of high
islands of Cambrian rocks forms a safe channel for small boats, as far
south as Great Whale River. This channel vaiies from two to eight
miles in width. South of Great Whale River, to within a short distance
of Cape Jones, the coast is unprotected and bold.

The eastern shore-line of James Bay is generally low, and the waters
of the bay are very shallow and dotted far out with rocky islands and
bouldery reefs, between which there is a perfect labyrinth of channels,
navigable with small craft, but dangerous to approach with large vessels.

The north shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in many places, has a (;„if of Ht.

more or less wide interval of low land, between the shore and the rocky l'»^"*^nce

' •' coast.

plateau behind. From Seven Islands to Natashquan Point, the shore
is comparatively regular and the islands few in number. To the east-
ward of Natashquan, as far as the Strait of Belle Isle, the coast is
greatly indented by small bays and coves, and islands are numerous>
especially between Cape Whittle and Blanc Sablon.

The peninsula of Labrador is a high, rolling plateau, which rises General eleva-
somewhat abruptly, within a few miles of the coastline, to heights '"^JJ, "'"" '^°"'
between 1500 and 2500 feet, the latter elevation being somewhat
greater than the watershed of the interior. The interior country is
undulating, and is traversed by ridges of low "rounded hills, that sel-
dom rise more than 500 feet above the general surrounding level.
From the barometer readings, taken during the season of 1894, in con-
junction with stationary barometers at Hamilton Inlet and Anticosti,
the general level of the interior plateau, about the Upper Hamilton

22 L

LAIIUAOOK PENINBULA

\

(irmlniil Hlojje
towiirdM
JuiiH'H Buy.

IliKliliiiidH
of till- 8t.
Luwrt'iiCL-.

Atlantic high-
lands.

Hiver and Lake Michikanmu, near tlie central watorNhnd, varieH from
1600 feot to IHOO feet, and this may be taken iw the general height of
much of the interior of the peninsula. The highoNt part of the main
interior mass is near the high granite area between the head-waters of
the Peribonka, Manieuagan and Outardes rivers, flowing into the St.
Lawrence, the Kast Main and i^g rivers, Mowing into Hudson Day,
and the Koksoak River flowing into Ungava Bay. The general
elevation of this area exceeds 2000 feet.

The only portion in which the genenil level is attain i by a gradual
slope, is the part facing James Bay, where the land along the coast
is low, and the rise eastward towards the interior is so light that
one hundred miles inland it is only about 700 feet above sea-level.

Meyond this the land continues to rise gradually, so that Lake
Mistassini is only l.SOO feet above sea-level. As before stated, the rise
from t'le coast in other places is <|uite rapid; and along the Ht. Law-
rence coast there is a range of high ground extending from the neigh-
bourhood of Quebec to below the St. .lohn Hiver. The larger streams
have cut deep valleys through this range. Along the Saguenay, at
Cape Eternity, the hills rise almost shear ir)00 feet a1)ove the river ;
while behind, in the Lake St. John region, few elevations exceed
1000 feet. On the Uersimis River, the high range begins about
forty-five miles inland an I continues to about the one hundredth
mile, beyond which the country is comparatively level, and somewhat
lower. On the Romaine and St. John rivers, the high lands formed
from a great mass of irruptive rocks, begin about twenty-five miles
from the coast, and are about fifty miles broad. The general level of
this belt is nearly 2000 feet and many of the summits are more than
2500 feet above sea-level, while the general level of the country
immediately behind them is not much over 1000 feet. H. Y. Hind*
mentions similar high lands on the Moisie River, where the general
level is above 1500 feet, and some of the mountain ranges are 3000
feet above sea-level.

Along the Atlantic coast, the land rises abruptly inland, almost
everywhere, to altitudes varying from 1000 feet to 1500 feet, from
the Strait of Belle Isle txD the vicinity of Nain. To the northward
of Nain the coast range is much higher, and, in the neighbourhood of
Nachvak Bay, ranges of sharp, unglaciated mountains rise abruptly
from the sea to heights varying from 2500 feet to 4000 feet ; while
farther north they are reported to culminate in peaks of GOOO feet,
a few miles inland. With a slight decrease in height, this range con-

*Exploration8 in Labrador, vol. 1, chap. i.\.

I

PIIYBIOAL niOriRAPHY.

33 I

\

I

,

trie sen, Hiulwjii Hiiy.

tinues iiortliwnnl to tho biirnm iNliincU nt Cape Chidloy. ThiH
mountain mngn appeiirn to he conK>i<*(l to the coaNt region and pro-
bably i.s under Hfty niiicH in width, tlie country on the woHtern MJde
sloping rapidly down to the level of the interior plateau. About
Ungava Hay, tho general level of tho plateau in probably Moniewhat
under lOUU feet, and the land rittoH gradually towards the interior.
Little or nothing in known definitely of the great northern area
between Hngava and Hudnon bays, but, from observationH by Dr.
U, iiell, made along the coasts, the land appears to rise rapidly for
lOOO feet, and then more gradually to elffvations bt^tween |.")00 and
2000 feet. Froip information obtained from the Kskimo at
Ungava, there would seem to be a low tract of country extending
westward from Hope's Advance towards Mosquito Uay on the HudH(m
Bay coast, and also another area of comparatively low country west-
word of the Leaf Lakes and of the Koksoak River valley.

The land fronting the Hudson Hay coast, as far south as Cape Jones, Elevntion of
reaches the 1000 fi ct level within a short distance from
an<l then rises (|uickly to a general level between 1500 and 2000
feet, the latter being the maximum of elevation in this region, as de-
termined by tho few explorations in this portion of the peninsula.
The gradual rise from the seaboard of the country to the east and
south-east of James Bay, has already been mentioned.

To sum up the foregoing statements of levels, — the interior of the Humnmry of
))eninsula is almost flat, so that in an area of 200,000 square miles, i'^'^"''""'
there' is not a difference of general level of more than 300 or 400
feet, and the highest general level of the interior is under 2500 feet.
A belt of land somewhat higher than the general interior follows the
St. Lawrence coast, a short distance inland. The northern half of
the Atlantic coast rises in a chain of mountains, considerably higher
than any other portion of the peninsula. Along the northern and
western coasts there is no evidence yet obtained to show the existence
of a coastal ridge, but rather a probability that the general elevation
increases towards the interior.

Like the other portions of northern Canada underlain by glaciated Lakes.
Archwan rocks, the interior of the Labrador Peninsula is covered with
myriads of lakes, that occupy, at a moderate estimate, at least one-
fourth of the total area. In size, these vary from small narrow ponds,
to lakes with surfaces hundreds of square miles in extent. Great
Mistassini and Michikamau lakes have areas considerably exceeding 500
square miles. Among those of which the area is between 200
and 500 square miles, may be mentioned Manouan Lake, on a tribu-

24 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Western
watershed

tary of the Peribonka River, Pletipi Lake, at the head of the Outardes
River, the Manicuagan lakes, on the headwaters of the river of the
same name ; all sending their waters into the St. Lawrence.
Dischar;.'ing into the Atlantic are Winokapau, Petitsikapau, Ashuanipi
and Attikonak lakes on the Hamilton River, and Grand Lake on the
Northwest River, which also drains Lake Michikamau. On the
rivers discharging northward. Lake Kaniapiskau is the only one yet
partly explored, but reference to the map will show a number of
large lakes on the various tributaries of the Koksoak and George
rivers, which have been located from information derived from
Hudson's Bay Company employees and Indians.

On the western watershed, Clearwater Lake is one of several large
lakes lying in an area between the sources of the Stillwater branch
of the Koksoak River, and the Nastapoka, Clearwater, Little and
Great Whale rivers Howing into Hudson Bay ; all of which rise and
flow through a number of large unexplored lakes.

Lake Nichicun is near the headwaters of the Big River and is
drained by that stream. The Mistassini lakes discharge into the
Rupert River, while the Nottoway River, which discharges into the
southern part of Jiu, Bay, drains, among others, lakes Waswanipi
and Chibougamoo.
Lakeless area. Besides the lakes mentioned, there are hundreds having a surface
area between 20 square miles and IQO square miles, while smaller
lakes are numberless. The only portion of Lal)riidor not thickly
covered with lakes, is the low country extending inland for about
100 miles from the east coast of James Bay. This area has been
covered with a deep mantle of marine sands and clays, which has filled
up the inequalities of the surface, and prevented the formation of
lakes ; it is covered instead by a net-work of small streams, with deep
channels cut out of the stratified drift.

The lakes, except the largest, are usually confined in the shallow
valleys between low rocky ridges, by barriers of drift, and in conse-
quence their depth is not great, seldom exceeding fifty feet, while
many of them are under twenty feet deep. Mistassini and Michikamau
lakes, occupying ancient basins, in which Cambrian rockswere deposited,
are among the exceptions, the former having a depth of over 400
feet, while that of the latter is said, by the Indians to exceed 250 feet.
Lake Winokapau, in the valley of the Hamilton River, and Lake
Mouchalagan on the Manicuagan River, are other exceptions, the
former being over 400 feet deep, and the latter 650 feet deep, but, as
will be explained further on, these and Grand Lake, on the Northwest
River, differ from the ordinary lakes in their manner of formation.

Formation of
lakes.

1

I

•]

PHYSICAL GEOOHAPHY.

25 L

f

It follows, from the great number of lakes, that the country Great depths
must be covered with a perfect network of streams discharging them.
The discharges and lakes interlock so closely that, with a kno'.vledge
of the country, it is possi" le to travel with canoes in any direction)
the longest portages never exceeding two or three miles.

There are four principal watersheds to the peninsula : of these the Rivers,
southern is the smallest, its rivers rarely exceeding 300 miles in
length ; the most important are the Saguenay and its branches,
Bersimis, Outardes, Manicuagan, Moisie, Romaine, Natashquan and
St. Augustine. The eastern watershed drains chiefly into Hamilton
Inlet, three large rivers flowing into its head. Of these the Hamilton
River is much the largest, taking its rise near the middle of the penin-
sula and draining an area extending from latitude 52° to latitude 54°
covering seven degrees of longitude. Its longest branch rises nearly
600 miles from its mouth. The other rivers of Hamilton Inlet are the
Northwest and Kenamou, the former draining a large area to the north
of the Hamilton River, the lattc flowing in from the south-west.
Apart from these three large streams, no other rivers of importance
are f )und alon^ the Atlantic coast, on account of the high lands of the
coast cutting off the drainage of the interior and forcing it to flow
northward into Ungava Bay.

The Koksoak River is the largest stream flowing northward, and is Koksoak
probably the largest river of Labrador. Besides the main stream, theie "'^♦'''•
are a half dozen tributaries, each of which drains an important basin.
The longest branch flows out of the northern end of Summit Lake,
on the 53rd parallel of latitude, while a branch of the Mani-
cuagan River flows out of the southern end of the same lake, thus
connecting by water the Gulf of St. Lawrence with Ungava Bay.
The total area drained by this river and its tributaries is about 60,000
square miles. The George River, is another great stream which rises
in large lakes close to Lake Petitsikapau on the Hamilton River, and
drains a wide area westward of the Atlantic coast range. The Whale
River is a smaller stream lying between the George and Koksoak rivers.

The western drainage basin is the greatest in Labrador and is emptied Wentern
by large rivers, that rise far inland, close to the head-waters of the '''^'^'^•
Koksoak and Saguenay rivers. Proceeding from the northward, the
larger rivers flowing into Hudson Bay are : — The Nastapoka which
flows out of several large lakes to the eastward of Clearwater Lake and
near the head of the Stillwater branch of the Koksoak River ; the
Little and Great Whale rivers, that rise close to the western branches of
the Koksoak ; the Big River which rises in the mountainous art i south

26 h

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Ancient river
channelH.

and east of the head of the East Main River, in about latitude 52°, and
close to the sources of the Peribonka, Manicuagan and Outardes rivers
tributaries of the St. Lawrence. From its source the Big River flows
northward nearly one hundred and fifty miles, passing through Lake
Nichicun, and then turns westward four hundred miles, emptying into
James Bay, near latitude 54°

The East Main River takes its rise in a number of lakes close to
Lake Nichicun and Hows nearly west, discliarging into James Bay a
short distance north of latitude 52". The Rupert River forms the
discharge of the Mistassini lakes, and, having such large reservoirs at
its head, is not subject to the same fluctuations of volume, as the
other rivers. It empties into Rupert Bay close to the mouth of the
Nottoway River, which drains a wide area to the south-east of Hudson
Bay, and rises in a number of large lakes close to the height-of-land
dividing it from the St. Maurice River, which joins the St. Lawrence
at Three Rivers.

The channels of most of the rivers of Labrador are of very ancient
origin, apparently dating back to a period before the deposition of the
Cambrian rocks. Tiiese valleys are cut deep into the general level of
the plateau, their depth and length apparently depending on the
volume of water carried, and thus showing that they have been mainly
formed by normal denudation.

The larger rivers flowing southward, have deep valleys cut through
the highlands of the coast region, and the streams are often from 500
feet to 1000 feet below the general level of the surrounding country.
The heads of these valleys are from one hundred to three hundred miles
from their mouths ; and at their upper ends the rivers descend from
the level of the interior in a succession of heavy falls, through narrow
gorges where processes of erosion are at present extending and deepen-
ing the valleys. This erosion is, however, so exceedingly slow, that
the change in the heads of the valley.-., since glacial times, has been
practically nothing, owing no doubt to the hardness and resistance to
weathering of the Archu-an rocks in which they are cut. The gorge
of the Saguenay, with its almost vertical walls rising 1500 feet above
the surface of the water, and its great depth of more than 800 feet in
places, is ati excellent example of one of these ancient river-valleys.
That of the Hamilton River, which is cut back from the head of
Hamilton Inlet for nearly three hundred miles, and of which the depth
is from 700 feet to 1200 feet below the general leve' of the surrounding
country, is another fine example of river erosion. The rivers occupy-
ing smaller valleys, are all of the same type. The East Main and
Rupert rivers, flowing as they do on the gradual slope towards James

•]

CLIMATE.

27 L

I

£aj, whera the marine deposits of sand and clay are found inland about
one hundred miles, have not the marked valleys found elsewhere, but
descend in a number of steps, where they have either cut narrow gorges
out of soft Huronian schists, or fall directly over granitic ledges. The
ancient valleys of these streams appear to have been filled up during
the deposition of these marine beds, and the present river-courses are
of post-glacial origin. '

Before entering the ancient valleys above described, all the rivers Newchannels.
in central Labrador flow almost on the surface of the country,
and are broken into chains of lakes often formed by dams of glacial
drift, which in other places form low ridges that divide the streams
into diflerent chaunels. These channels wander about on the lower
levels of the interior country in a most bewildering manner, and ren-
der travel without a guide excessively difficult.

Climate.

The climate of Labrador ranges from cold temperate, on the southern Climate along
coasts, to arctic on Hudson Strait and the high lands of the northern
interior, and is generally so rigorous that it is very doubtful if the
country will ever be fit for agriculture north of latitude 51°, except on
the low grounds near the coast. Along the east coast of James Bay,
good crops of potatoes and other roots are grown as far north as Fort
George — about latitude 54° — while on the Atlantic coast of the pen-
insula, about the head of Hamilton Inlet, similar crops are easily cul-
tivated. On the outer coast the climate is more rigorous, and ap-
pears to be much affected by the northern current, with its numerous
floating icebergs, which lowers the mean temperature and renders the
^^rowth of root crops slow and uncertain at Rigolet in latitude 54°.
Garden vegetables are, however, grown ac Nain in latitude 56° 30';
but extra precautions are taken with them, such as the building of
walls to protect them from the east wind, and covers put over them
when in danger from summer frost. At Fort Chimo, near the mouth
of the Koksoak River in latitude 58°, with care small patches of tur-
nips, lettuce and radishes are grown.

In the interior, at the Hudson Bay's post of Mistassini, in latitude Climate of tho
50° 30', a crop of potatoes is raised annually, but, owing to the shortness
of the season and the prevalence of summer frosts, they rarely mature
without the tops being irozt ^. No other vegetables aro cultivated
here at present. At Nichicun attempts are made to grow potatoes,
but they have always proved more or less ff ilures, owing to frosts
in July and August. It will thus be seen that the prospects of the

Absence of
groHS.

Summer
HeaHon,

Winter
season.

28 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

settlement of the central portion of Labrador, for purposes of agricul-
ture, are by no means bright ; and, if settlements are made for other
purposes, the inhabitants will have to depend largely on more southern
localities for their vegetable food. Owing to the absence of grass plains,
and to the mantle of moss and lichens that covers the surface of the
ground almost everywhere, there is little likelihood that it will ever be a
grazing district. The high lands of the interior have only two seasons,
winter and summer. The summer season begins almost simultaneous-
ly throughout the interior, and the jump from winter into summer
occurs as a rule during the first two weeks of June, when the snow
disappears, and the ice leaves the rivers and lakes, except the largest,
where it often remains until July. With the disappearance of the
snow and ice, the temperature during the day rapidly increases, and
the leaves are almost immediately put forth by trees and bushes. Dur-
ing 1894, frosts were of almost nightly occurrence until June 28th,
when a thin sheet of ice was formed in the vessels about camp, and
slight flurries of snow fell in the morning. After this date no frost
was noted, but, thermometers having unfortunately been broken, the
exact temperature could not be taken. To the north of latitude 52',
snow falls and ice begins to form in the small lakes about the middle of
September. From early in October the snow remains permanently, and
all the smaller lakes are solidly frozen, so that, for the greater part of
the interior plateau, there is at most only three months of summer.
The temperature during the winter season is often very low on the
interior high lands, away from the influence of the sea. The coldest
months are December, January and February, and the following read-
ings of thermometers taken at Mistassini* in 1885, will give an idea of
the temperature of that region, which appears to be somewhat higher
than about Nichicun and the upper Hamilton River.

Temperatures
at Lake Mis-
tassini.

Jan.

Feb.

Mar

Apr. May.

June. July.

Aug.

Mean temperature

Higliest temi)erature

Lowest temjierature

-IS -5

If)
-iM)

-001

3!)
-40

01!)
35
-47

25-3
54
■■ 1!)

42-3

85
08

531

79
30

5!) -9
70

50-7

81

31

Great thick-
ness of ice.

According to reports of the Indians, the ice in Lake Michikamau is
7 feet 6 inches thick on an average, and the amount of continuous
frost to form such a thickness must be very great. The ice in Lake
Winokapau, in the deep valley of the Hamilton River, was from actual

•Annual Reixirt, Geological Survey of Canada, vol. I. (N.S.), 1885, p. 10 u.

I

■]

CLIMATE.

29 L

Hamilton
Inlet.

.'•'ort Chiino.

measurement found to be 4 feet 9 inches. From the journal kept at the Lake Wino-

post on this lake, between 1866 and 1874, the first snow generally fell

aVx>ut September 20th and continued until June, the latest record being

June 10th. The lowest temperature • ecorded was 55° below zero. Geese

and summer birds arrived on or about May 10th. From the journals

at Northwest River post, the lowest temperature recorded from 1867

to 1893, was 53' below zero. There are several observations of 45°

below zero, which appears to be the minimum winter temperature of

most years. At Rigolet, where the temperature is moderated by the

open sea, the thermometer rarely registers 40° below zero. At Fort

Chimo, where the open sea is not far distant, 45° below zero is sair".

be the lowest temperature registered. The summer temperature of -i.a

Atlantic coast region is considerably lower than inland or along the

western coast. As a rule the thermometer in the interior — north of

Mistassini — rarely rises above 80° during the middle of the day on

more than a few days during the summer season.

The temperature depends greatly on the direction of the winds. Winds.
During the summer, south and south-west winds prevail in the interior,
and are accompanied by higher temperature and often overcast sky,
with drizzling rain. The west and north-west winds bring clear
weather with lowering temperature, especially during the winter
season. North and north-east winds are usually accompanied by
heavy storms of rain and snow, with cold moist atmosphere. East and
south-east winds, as a rule, blow with clear pleasant weather.

The precipitation of moisture over the interior area is not great. Rain.
During the winter the snowfall varies from three to six feet, and the
greater part of it descends during the periods of north or north-east
wind, which are not common ; the north-west wind, blowing at least
three-quarters of the time during the winter season, is accompanied by
a bright clear atmosphere. During the summer season the precipita-
tion, if not great, is constant, as a day raiely passes without drizzle,
or thunder showers, which lower the temperatuve.

At Northwest River, the head of Hamilton Inlet freezes completely Bays on
over between the 1st and 15th of December, and opens again between freeze over.
May 15th and June 15th. Snow falls early in October, and from
that date to about the first week in May, the latest record being
July 2nd. At Rigolet, the outer part of Hamilton Inlet rarely or
never freeze s solid before the middle of January, and in some winters
does not close at all. This is due to the strong currents in this part
of the inlet. Sandwich Bay, nearly one hundred miles farther south,
generally freezes over in the end of December, and the same time may
be taken as that of the closing of most of the larger fiords of the

30 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Snow. Atlantic coast. About Fort Chimo, the lower grounds are permanently

covered with snow by the 1st of December, this covering remaining
until the 10th of June. The higher hills retain snow until the last of
August, and by the middle of September snow again covers the tops
of the distant high hills.'*^

It

Soil.

Marine
de|)ositH.

Character of The soil of the greater part of the peninsula is derived from the
Archseanarea. underlying Archi«?an rocks, and is mostly in the form of glacial till,
mixed with boulders of various sizes. The till is a mixture of sand
and clay in which the former greatly predominates. In many large
areas which have been traversed by fire, much of the vegetable matter
of the surface has been destroyed, and the remaining soil supports
only a scant growth of small trees. Along the sides of the river-
valleys the drift has been re-arranged and mixed with sediments.
Here the soil, though generally light and sandy, is richer than the
unmodified till ; and the size and variety of trees growing on it are
consequently greater. Within the limits of the marine deposits, about
the margins of the peninsula, the stratified sands are underlain by
bedded clays, and as the coast is approached, the overlying sands thin
out, leaving the clays near the surface, thus producing a light ,=oil
with a heavy subsoil, on which the vegetation is much better than
anywhere else, except on the lower banks and islands in the rivers
near the coast, where the sands and clays aro topped with deposits of
alluvium. The soil covering the areas of Cambrian rocks, being made
up of the debris of limestone, shale, and other rocks of this formation,
is of a heavier nature than that formed from the Archojan rocks ; and
the change from one to the other is marked by the better growth of
trees on the former.

Tkkes and Other Plants.

VariouH trees. The southern half of the Labrador Peninsula is included in the

sub-arctic forest belt, as described by Prof. Macoun.f Nine

species of trees may be said to constitute the whole arborescent flora of

I this region. These species are : — Behila papyri/era, Michx., Populus

tremuloides, Michx., Populus balsami/era, Linn., Thuya ovcidentalis,

•Annual Reix)rt U. S. Bureau of Ethnology, 1889 90.— Ethnology of the Ungava
District. L. M. Turner, p. 172.

Cambrian
debris.

■■

\ The Forest Trees of Canada,
iv., 1894, pp. 5-7.

John Macoun. — Trans. Royal Soc. Canada, Sec.

n

•]

TREES AND OTHER PLANTS.

31 L

Linn., Plnus Bankaiana, I/am., I'wea alha, Link., Picea niyra, Link..
Abies bahanifia, Marah, and Larix Americana, Michx.

The distribution of the forest areas and the range of the various Distribution,
trees depend on several factors, among which may be mentioned, posi-
tion as regards latitude, height above sea-level, distance from sea-coast,
and character of the soil, all of which are important.

The forest is continuous over the southern part of the peninsula to ForeHt areas,
between latitudes 52' and 54°, the only exceptions being the summits
of rocky hills and the outer islands of the Atlantic coast. To the
northward of latitude 53°, the higher hills are treeless and the size and
number of the barren areas rapidly increase. In latitude 55', more Buncn
than half the surface of the country is treeless, woods being only found B"'"'"''*-
about the margins of small lakes and in the valleys of the rivers. Trees
also decrease in size until, on the southern shoreaof Ungava Bay,
they disappear altogether. The Leaf River, which empties into the
bay a few miles north of the mouth of the Koksoak River, is the
northern limit of forest trees on the west side of Ungava Bay.

Along the east coast of Hudson Bay, Dr. Bell found trees growing a
few miles beyond the north end of Richmond Gulf.*

In the neighbourhood of Clearwiiter Lake, the writer found many
clumps of black spruce and larch, and, according to Indian reports,
small patches extend to the Nastapoka River in latitude 57°. So that
a line drawn a little south of west, from the mouth of the Leaf River Nortlurn tree
to the mouth of the Nastapoka River on Hudson Bay, would give a
close approximation to the northern tree limit of western Labrador.

The tree-line skirts the southern shore of Ungava Bay and comes Atlantic
close to the mouth of the George River, from which it turns south-south- *'°*'' "
east, skirting the western foot-hills of the Atlantic coast range, which
is quite treeless, southward to the neighbourhood of Hebron, in lati-
tude 58', where trees are again found in protected valleys at the heads
of the inner bays of the coast. At Davis Inlet, in latitude 56", trees
grow on the coast and high up on the hills, the barren grounds being
confined to the islands and headlands, which remain treeless to the
southward of the mouth of Hamilton Inlet. These barren islands and
bare headlands of the outer coast, along with the small size of the
trees on the lowlands, have caused a false impression to be held
regarding much of the Atlantic coast, which from Hamilton Inlet
southward is well timbered about the heads of the larger bays and on
the lowlands of the small river-valleys.

*Rei)ort of Progress, Geol. Surv. Can., 1877-78, p. 266.

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Distribution
of whitu
birch.

Northern
limitH.

Distribution
of aH|Hin.

The distribution of each of the several species of trees depends on
conditions similar to those afi'ectiiig the forest areas in general.

lietula impyrifera, Michx. (White, Paper, or Canoe Birch) is found
everywhere throughout the southern portion of the peninsula. Except
in the district to the south-west of Tjake Mistassini, drained by
the Nottoway River, and on the southern watershed, the trees do not
grow sufficiently large or straight to afford bark for canoe building,
and the Indians of the more northern portions have to depend upon
bark imported by the Hudson's Bay Company for their canoes. About
Lake Nichicun and on the upper waters of the Hamilton River, the
largest trees rarely exceed eight inches in diameter. The trees are.
found in thickets of second-growth, on the hillsides which have
been traversed by fire ; they also grow sparingly in unburnt portions.
Northward of Nichicun, the white birch becomes rapidly smaller and
along the upper Koksoak River does not average three inches in
diameter. At Cambrian Lake, where the limestones are encountored
and the river-valley is deep and protracted, the size of the trees
improves, and birches six inches in diameter are not uncommon.
Below the junction of the Swampy-bay River, the trees again become
small, and finally die out on the Koksoak River a few miles above
Fort Chimo. On the Hudson Bay side, the northern limit of white
birch is near the mouth of the Great Whale River, while inland it
is found, in small straggling clumps, at the head-waters of the south
branch of that river. About Hamilton Inlet, birch is common, and,
at the head of the inlet, trees up to ten inches in diameter are not
uncommon.

Pojndus (remuloides, Mich. (Aspen). The range of this tree depends,
to a great extent, on the nature of the soil. In the southern portion
of the peninsula, it is found as a second growth along with the white
birch, and also in clumps in the original forest. It appears to be
most plentiful on the western half of the peninsula, where it grows
most abundantly on the unmodified glacial till of the drift ridges. At
Lake Mistassini, this tree is abundant and is often ten or twelve
inches in diameter about the southern portion of the lake. Along
the upper East Main River, only small clumps of bent and twisted
trees are seen, while about Nichicun it is exceedingly rare. To the
northward of Nichicun, this tree was not seen along the route followed
to Ungava Bay. On the Hudson Bay coast, the neighbourhood of
Cape Jones is the northern limit of the aspen ; while inland it is
found on the portage-route, between the lower and upper parts of the
Big River, in latitude 54°. About the head of Hamilton Inlet, and
along the river below the Grand Falls, clumps of aspen are frequently

•]

TREES AND OTHER PLANTS.

33 h

met with. But above the Grand Falls this tree was not seen any.
where on the waters of the Hamilton River, its first occurrence
on the route southward being near the portage-route leading to the
Romaine River from Lake Attikonak. Along the Roraaine River, it
soon becomes common as the stream is descended. On the Maniouagan
River aspen is found in the deep river-valley to beyond latitude 52',
but does not grow on the surrounding table-land.

Populus bahaini/ffa, Linn. (Balsam Poplar) is met with farther north Di8tributi«m
than the aspen ; but it appears to confine itself to the heavy clay soil "^^/,i*'^""'
of the river-valleys, or to the modified drift of the Cambrian areas.
It is met with along the Big and East Main rivers, flowing mto Hudson
Bay, and its northern limit on this aide of the peninsula is the Bishop
Roggan River, the next stream north of the Big River. Along the
rivers of this coast, balsam poplar was only met with for about one
hundred miles inland from the coast, where its limit was that of the
stratified marine clays of the river- valley.s. On the upper East Main
River, it was nowhere seen, and it does not appear to grow northward
of Lake Mistassini in the western interior. After passing through an
area of several hundred miles from Mistassini to Eaton Cafion, on the
Koksoiik River, balsam poplar is again found growing in the valle)' of
thiit river and continues to be found at intervals, to within twenty-five
miles of Fort Chimo. At the head of Cambrian Lake, large clumps of Northern
trees of this species, ten inches in diameter, were observed growing on """'■
the low terraces, but elsewhere they were small and straggling. On
the lower Hamilton River, balsam poplar is common. Above the
Grand Falls it is not found along the river, for upwards of a hundred
miles, until the Cambrian area about Birch Lake is reached, when
small trees of this species become common, and continue along the
Ashuanipi Branch to the end of survey. On the Attikonak Branch, a
few small trees were noted between Sandy Lake and the height-of-land
to the southward.

Thnya occidentalis, Linn. (Cedar) hardly enters the southern limits Disti ibution
of the peninsula. It occurs just south of the mouth of the Rupert *
River, at the foot of James Bay, and does not cross that stream in the
eastern course of its northern limit. It is only found about the south-
western bays of Mistassini Lake, from which it extends south-east,
crossing the St. Lawrence to the westward of Seven Islands. No
cedar trees were seen along the Manicuagan River from its mouth up-
ward.

Pinua Banksiana, Lam. (Banksian Pine, Jack Pine, Cypress) is Distribution
limited in its extension by an eastern as well as a northern boundary, "' Banksian
3

34 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Xol'tlierii
limit.

I

It grows freely over the western half of the peninsula, and appears to
prefer the dry, sandy drift ridges and rocky hills, where it is often
found along with black spruce, as a second growth, covering areas
devastated by fire. Its northern limit is the south branch of the
Great AVhalo River, south of which it occurs abundantly to the shores
of the St. Lawrence, but does not come quite to the coast on Hudson
or James Bay, probably on account of the shore being generally low
and swampy. Inland, it is met with abundantly, along the Eiist Main
Kft'stern limit. River, to the Iiong Portage Creek, near its head, in about longitude
71° W. Hero a line running nearly north and south terminates the
eastern extension of the Bankainn pine, Ai)out Nichicun only a few
small clumps are found to the westward of the lake, and it is unknown
to the Indians to the eastward. In the southern extension of its
eastern limit, the lino luns somewhat east of south and reaches the St.
Lawrence in the neighbourlmod of the mouth of the Moisie River,
being every here common along the main branch of the Manicuagan
River.

DiHtribiition
of wliiti'
NpniL'c.

Northern
limit.

Picea alba, Link. (White Spruce) is found throughout the wood,
ed area of the peninsula, but it is not everywhere common, and there
are seveial areas where it is rarely found. Its distribution is but
little affected by climate or by height above sea level ; it appears to
depend altogether on the soil. North of the southern watershed, it is
confined to the areas of re-arranged drift of the river-valleys and
marine deposits along the coast, or to the iieavier drift of the
Cambrian areas of the interior. Along the western coast, the interior
limit of this tree, on the Eust Main and other rivers flowing into Hud-
son Bay, coincides closely with the margin of the marine deposits, and
consequently does not extend one hundred and fifty miles eastward
from that coast. From Lake Mistassini, along the route to Nichicun,
no trees of this species were met with, but it is said to grow sparingly
about the latter place. A few small trees were observed on terraces
between Nichicun and Lake Kaniapiskau. Along the upper Koksoak
River, small trees were seen occasionally on its terraced banks to Eaton
Canon. Below this place, the number of trees and their size increased
rapidly in the river-valley, and from here to the forks of the Still-
water many of them exceeded eighteen inches in diameter three feet
from the ground and were over fifty feet in height. Below the Still-
water, their size rapidly decreased, and the trees died out near the
mouth of the Koksoak River, along with the black spruce and larch,
of which the northern limit is about coterminous witli that of the
white spruce. About Hamilton Inlet, white spruce is abundant on
the lowlands, and at the mouths of the Kenamou and Hamilton

(

'■]

TRKK8 AND OTIIER PLANTS.

3S L

rivers iiiiiny lar^e sticks have been taken out for sparH and masts for (!<kx1 timlHir.

sciioonern. Here, and alont; the Hamilton Iliver valley, where unburnt,

this tree often exceeds eighteen inches in diaaieter, and grown Hufficient-

ly tall 1(1 allow of three good twelve-foot logs being cut out of a single

tree. Above the (irand Falls, white spruce is found along the river

banks, but is generally small and scattered until the Cambrian area of

the upper waters is reached, when it becomes more abundant and

grows well up the hillsides. Many of the trees of this region are very

stout at th(ur bases, but being short and branching would make poor

lumber. To the southward of the Cambrian area, on the Attikonak

Branch and the upper llomaine River, very few trees of this species

are seen until the latter stream enters its ancient valley, when they

become more abundant. They are found everywhere in the valley to the

St. Lawrence. In the valley of the Manicuagan River, trees of this

species attain a large si?.e and are very abundant to Lake Mouchalagan,

above which they gradually become fewer and smaller, and die out near

the mouth of the Attikopi River.

Piica iilijrn, Link. (Bhick Spruce) is the most abundant tree of DiKtrilmtion

Labrador and probably constitutes over ninety per cent of the forest. "^ '''''^''

Hpnice.
It grows freely on the sandy soil which covers the great Archiean

areas, and thrives as well on the dry hills as in the wet swampy

country between the ridges. On the southern watershed the growth

is very thick everywhere, so much so that the trees rarely reach a

large size. To the northward, about the edge of the semi-barrens, the

growth on the uplands is less rank, the trees there being in open

glades, where they spread out with large branches resembling the

white spruce. The northern limit of the black spruce is that of the

forest belt ; it and larch being the last trees met with before entering

the barrens.

Abifisbnlsamea, 'MiWer. (Balsam Fir, or Spruce,) is another species DiNtnlutum
that grows only on suitable soil. It is found nearly to the edge of °^ ''a'"""" ^^■
the barren grounds. Throughout the wooded regions it grows more
or less plentifully about the margins of the larger streams and lakes,
apparently preferring soil containing considerable moisture and
alluvium. Northward of the southern watershed, it is rarely found
away from the edges of rivers and large lakes, and is wanting along
the portage-routes connecting the larger streams. On the Hudson
Bay coast, its northern limit is near the Great Whale River. On the Northern
Koksoak River a few trees were seen below the junction of the Still- '"""*•
water. Along the Hamilton River it grows everywhere and was also
found growing about the shores of Lake Michikamau.

H

.JG L

I.AIIUADOU I'KNIXHUI-A.

DiHtrilMitiiiii
(if lurch.

CDiiiiiii'rcm
valui'.

Larif Americana, Michx. ( Lnrch, Tmnamclc, 'Juniper'), Ih proha'ily
tho hiinliost tr«e of the huIi iirctic fonwt belt ; it giowt, nverywliero
tlirouglioiit the Tiiihnidor IVninsula. and is prohalily imxt in aliundanco
to tiiH Wlack Mpru('(>. TiirouglMiut tho interior it is found growing in
ail tilt) cold Hwainjis, and is always tho largest trne in the vicinity.
Along tho northorn margin of tho forost, tho laroli continues as a troo to
tho very odgo, whore tho hlaok spruce is (Jwarfod to a niere sliruh. Tho
larch of the southern region has lieen almost totally destroyed hy tho

DiMtnictidii ravages of tho imported, Kurojiean larch saw-fly fXwrt/H** Erli'/iMoiiil ).

lywiw- y. '['Ill, p,.,.s,.|,t niiijr(, of this pest extends northward from Lako Ht. .Fohn
to beyond Lake .Mistassini, and appears to bo yearly sjireading north-
ward and eastward, but has not yet reached the St. John or l{oniaino
rivers (lowing into the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

FmcMtariaMof Areas of forest of sutlicient si/.o, with I rees largo enough for com-
mercial purposes, aro contined to the southern water'shed and to tho
lower cijursos of the streams Mowing into tho Atlantic or Hudson Hay.
It is very doubtful if such areas occur along these coasts to tho north
of latitude r)t . Much of t\w timber of tho more southern regions is
not of the best and • ild afford only spruce deals, wliil(< tho gi'oater
part could hardly be profitably worked in competition with tho west-
ern pine; but the time will probably como when tho trees of tho moro
fav(mral)le portions of Labrador will bo profitably worktul into lumber,
especially if tho smaller growths aro cut at the same time for tho
manufactui(! of paper pulp.

At least one half of tho forost area of tho interior has been totally
destroyed by firo within the past twenty-five or thirty years. These
fires are of annual occurrence and often burn throughout the entire
summer, destroying thousands of s(|U iro miles of valuable timber, to
the south of the central watershed. Tho regions thus devastated re-
main barren for many years, especially towards tho northern limits,
and the second growth of black spruce, Banksian pine, aspen and
white birch is never as good or as largo as the original forest. These
fires are due to various causes, but the majority of them can bo traced
to the Indians, who start them either through carelessness or in-
tentionally. The Nascaupee Indians of the semi-barrens signal one
another by smoke made by burning the white lichens that cover
most of the ground in the interior, and these signals cause
many of the fires. The southern Indians signal in a similar manner,
but do not practice it to such an extent as their northern brethern,
having found that they are rapidly destroying their hunting grounds.
Careless camp fires in dry seasons are another common cause of these
forest fires, and many of those ascribrd to lightning, if closely traced

Forest tire-

Causes of firea.

T

f

TItKKH ANti UTIIKR PLANTH.

37 I-

would \m t'ouiul to liiive hfloti Hot hy wiindeiin^ IiuliiiriH, who uro only
ourcful on tlicir own hunting grounds. Kroui wliiit is m'on on the nx*
ploi'rd I'ouli's of tlio Houtliorn watorHlit'd, it would ii|)|)eiir tlii^l at IcaHt
Olio liidf of tlio ft)?-ost liiis boi-n I'oniovod l>y tliiH ciiUHn.

Tlio greatest tirfl of inndorn tinii'H occurred in 1870 or 1871, und (ii.ut Hniif
swept the country south of tho height-of-land, from the Ht. Maurice "*'"''•
to lii'yond tiio Uoiiiiiiiio Hivor, Tlio Ncconil /;rowtli is just lioginning
to cover up the traces of this gnvit c tiitjiigration, which ruintnl tho
piuneers of Lake St. Joiiii, and it will lie years before the country
is generally again well woo(l<'<l. The upper Itoniaine river-valley iiiiH Itoinuini'
hecn totally burnt over within the last ten years, and the margin of
this great burnt area has been extended southward during the '■uinnierH
of 1H9.'{ and 1H94, so that now practically no green woods exist ahmg
the course of this river from tho Hi. Lawrence to its source. The
countiy surrounding thi^ Hamilton Itivor is in a similar state ; except Hiiiuiltcin
patches of original forest, along the lower part of the river-valley "'^'''•
and about Hamilton Inlet, only blackened stumps or a small second
growth are seen along its course, with an occasional oasis cjf largo
green wood to bi(;ak the monotony. In this region great fire.« occur
annually ; that of 181).'l covered hundreds of s<juare miles of the table-
land between tho Hamilton and Northwest rivers. Similar remarks
apply to tho forests of the western watershed, more than half of
which have been burnt.

Throughout the forest belt, the lowlands fringing the streams and Willown.
lakes are covered with thickets of willows and alders. As tho
semi-barrens are approached, the areas covered by these shrubs become
more extensive, and they not only form wide margins along tho rivers
and shores of tho lakes, but with dwarf birches occupy much of the
open glades. Tho willows and birches grow on the sides of the hills,
above the tree line, where they form low thickets exceedingly difficult
to pass through. iJeyond the limits of the true forest, similar thickets
of Arctic willows and birches are found on the low grounds, but on
the more elevated lands they only grow a few inches above the surface.
In the southern region, the undergrowth in the wooded areas is chiefly
Labrador tea (Ledum fnlt/d/liuii) and " laurel " (Knhiilagltiurn), which
grow in tangled masses, from two to four feet high, and are very diffi-
cult to travel through. In the semi-barrens this undergrowth dies out,
and travel across country is much eisier in consequence. In the south-
ern regions the ground is usually covered to a considerable depth with
sphagnum, which northwai'd of ol° is gradually replaced by the white
lichens or reindeer mosses (Cladonia), which grow freely everywhere
throughout the semi-barren and barren regions.

/

38 h

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Small fruits. The distribution of small fruits and berries is of some importance
and may be recorded here, although they are included in the plant
list of Appendix VI.

Prunua Pennsylvanica, Linn. (Wild cherry) is found in burnt areas
northward throughout the interior to about latitude 55', where it
grows in small bushes, rarely more than four feet high.

Rubus chamaimortis, Linn. (Cloudberry, Bake-apple, Yellow-berry)
is found in the swarnps everywhere throughout Labrador to beyond
the tree limit, and forms an important article of food for the Indians.

Rubus arcticus, Linn. (Arctic raspberry, Dewberry, Eye-berry)
grows in the opens, along the banks of northern streams, and is espe-
cially abundant on the islands along the east coast of Hudson Bay.
It is a much larger fruit, and has a more delicate wine-Havour than
the next species.

Rubus triflorus, Richards (Dewberry, Eye-beri-y) is found along
the banks of streams and on the edge of woods northward from the
St. Lawrence to about latitude 54^, where it occurs rarely on the
banks of the upper Hamilton River and about Lake Nichicun.

Rubus striijoxus, Michx. (Red raspberry) is limited to about the
same range as the last species, being found in burnt woods as far
north as latitude 54°.

Cherry.

Bake-apple.

Arctic rasp
berrv.

Dewberry.

Raspberry.

Strawberry.

Indian pear.

Blueberries.

Fragaria Viryiniana, Duchesne (Wild strawberry) is not abundant
in the interior, owing to the absence of grassy glades, or opens ; it is
only found on grassy banks, at the ends of well-used portages, or in
the clearings about the Hudson's Bay Company's forts, as at Mistas-
sini, Nichicun and the abandoned Fort Nascaupee, on the Hamilton
River. Along the coast of Hudson Bay, it is found abundantly on
the islands, to beyond Fort George, in latitude 54".

Amelanchier Canadensis, Torr. and Gray (June-berry, Indian pear).
Of this specicj both the oblongifoHa and oliyocarpa varieties are fourd,
northward, to the Big and Hamilton rivers. The latter variety is
most common, and is much inferior in fruit to the rarer variety. It
grows in glades, generally in swampy ground. The first variety is con-
fined to the burnt areas and hillsides.

Several species of Vaccinium are found abundantly throughout the
peninsula, growing on the burnt districts of the south, and in the open
country of the semi-barren and barren lands.

Vaccinium Pennsylvanicnm, Gray (Blueberry), is very abundant
throughout the southern region, where it grows profusely on the

"i'

■]

TREES AND OTHER PLANTS.

39 L

extensive burnt lands, as far north as the East Main and Hamilton
rivers, and is abundant at Nichicun, where the fruit is often destroyed
by summer frosts. It was found abundantly along the Koksoak
River, nearly to the Stillwater Branch. On the Atlantic coast, it has
been found northward to the vicinity of Nain, while on the Hudson
Bay coast, it reaches nearly to the (Jreat Whale River. Its fruit is
used largely by the Indians, who di'ring the later summer months
subsist largely upon it. It is eaten both raw and in the form of jam,
and, mixed wilh a small proportion of flour, it is made into bread or
cake.

Vacrininm uliginosum, Linn. (Duck-berry) is a more northern form, Duck-berry,
which, on the edge of the semi-barrens, largely replaces the last mentioned
species. In the southern portions of the peninsula, it is only occasion-
ally found on the banks and islands of the rivers. In the '-'.cinity of
the Hamilton and Big rivers, and northward, it is found growing
profusely in the open spaces, along with V. Pennsylvanicuni, and
continues northward into the barren grounds, where it occurs as a
small spreading shrub, growing only two or three inches high. The
fruit of this species is more acid and firmer than th«) southern blue-
berry, and is not as pleasant to the taste, especially when cooked,
having then a disagreeable flavour. It is also an important article of
food to the Indians and Eskimo.

Vacciniuin crespitosum, Michx., is a more northern variety than the
last, being found on the summits of the higher hills about the head-
waters of the Hamilton River. It continues abundant to beyond the
mouth of the Koksoak River.

Vacciniutit Vitis-Idtm, Linn. (Cranberry, Pomme de terre) is the Cranberry,
most important berry of the northern half of Labrador. South of
latitude 51°, it is found only on the summits of barren rocky hills, or
on barren islands in the larger lakes ; but to the northward, as the
open barren spaces increase, it soon becomes abundant, and about the
Hamilton and Big rivers is very plentiful everywhere, growing on the
low ridges of drift , as well as on the rocky hills. It continues to be
abundant to the northward of the Koksoak River. Owing to the
lasting qualities of tinj fruit and its improvement by frost, large quan-
tities are gathered annually by the inhabitants, before the ground is
covered* with snow, for use during the long winter, throughout which
the berries keep perfectly, and counteract the ill efiects of the constant
meat diet of the Indians and other inhabitants. The fruit is found in
perfection, immediately after the disappearance of the snov/ in the spring,
and continues good for several weeks, until the juices are dried up by
the sun.

>t»

40 L

LAHRADOR PENINSULA.

Crow-berry. Empetrum viijritm, Liim. (Crowberry) is abundant throughout the
semi-banen and baiieii regions of the peninsula, growing freely on the
coast and inland. Where the various species of Vaccin'mm are absent,
its fruit is eaten by the natives ; but, as it is watery and not well
flavoured, it is not esteemed as highly as the other berries. It is a
favourite food of the curlew, and is eaten by geese in the early spring.

List of plants. The lists of plants contained in Appendix VI. show the distribution
of the flora of the Labrador Peninsula, ineludin;,' diffeient areas of the
interior wheni collections have been made, and also the Atlantic and
Hudson Bay coasts.

Tuhnbitant.1.

Ditticiilty in
niiikiii),' a

census.

Xinnber of
Inrlians.

Population.

With the exception of the white settlements along the north shore
of the Gulf of St. Lawrence and on the Atlantic coast, and the few
■whites employed by the Hudson's Bay Company in the interior and on.
Hudson Bay, the inhabitants of the Labrador Peninsula are either
Indians or Eskimo.

It is very diflicult to arrive at more than a rough approximation of
the numbers of Indians inhabiti':^ the interior, o^ving to their habits
of roving from one Company's post to anr,clier ; and tlie consequent
liability to counting the same family several times, if the returns are
computed from the books of the various posts, which is the only
available data for any exact enumeration.

From the returns given in the reports of the Department of Indian
Affairs, the Indians of the (lulf of St. Lawrence, including those of
Lake St. John, numbered 1919 in 1888, and 1725 in 189.3. These
figures exclude 2860, under the heading of the " Xascopies of the
Lower St. Lawrence," which number is the same in both returns.
According to the same source, the number of Indians of Eastern
Rupert Land is 4016; that of the Labrador (Canadian Interior)
1000, and that of the Atlantic coast 4000. The last probably refers
to the Eskimo, but is not so stated. These returns wouki give a total
native population of more than 13,000 persons, if the Indians of East-
ern Rupert Land are those of the east coast of Hudson Bay.

In Appendix II., page 336, of the report of the Commit'JB on the
Hudson's Bay Company (1857), a return of the native population is
given, compiled by the Hudson's Bay Company and others. The total
number of natives trading at, and belonging to, the various posts in
the Labrador Peninsula is given as 3885 persons ; and this estimate,
although probably somewhat high, is still much nearer to the native

4^

■]

POPULATION.

41 L

t

Indian population than that given above. The population of the St.
Lawrence coast is given as 1800 persons, which agrees closely with
the Depaitinent of Indian Affairs returns for the years 1888 and
18'j3.* Of the remainder, 400 belonged to posts on the At'antic
coast, where probably a number of Eskimo are included, 950 belonged
to the posts of the east coast of Hudson Bay, and the balance, 735,
were attached to the posts of the interio.. 8ince this return was
made, the food resources and other conditions have changed consider-
ably, and with them the distribution of the Indians.

In 1857, there were seven trading posts in the interior of the pen-
insula, and at present there are but tiiree, Waswanipi, Mistassrini and
Nichicun, Fort Cliiuio, neiir the mouth of the Koksoak River was
not then opened. The polic}' of the Hudson's Bay Company was then
to keep the Indians away from the coast and contact with opposition
traders ; this has now been changed, and the great body of the natives
travel annually to and from their hunting grounds in the interior, to
the various coast posts. In consequence, instead of 735 persons be-
longing ti) inland posts, at present there are not above 300 attached
to these posts. The number of Indians tra'ling at Northwest River
and Davis Inlet, on the Atlantic coast, is alx»ut 200 persons. At
Fort Chinio the famine of Itil)2-93 reduced the nuir.ber of Indians in
that district from 350 to less than 200 persons. Connected with the
posts at Oreat Whale River, Fort George and Rupert House, on
Hudson Bay, the total number of Indians does not exceed 1000
])ei sons, and probably falls considerably short of that number, iiO
th:it at the highest estimate the Indian jjopulation of the Labrador
Peninsula does not exceed 3500, and is more likely nearer 3000.

The Eskimo inhabit the coast of the peninsula from Hamilton Inlet
northward aloiig the Atlantic coast to Hudv ii Strait, the east
shore of Hur'sou Bay as far south us Great V« ■ :vle River, while a few
families live on the islands of James Bay. From the mi...gre returns
available, only an approximate statement of their numbers can bo
compiled. In the census of Newfoundland (1891), the Eskimo aro not
separated from the white population of the Labrador coast ; but, asthe
number of resident whites is not above 100 persons north of Hamilton
Inlet, and as the Eskimo form about one-haif the popi'lation of that
place, from a total of 1191 persons there, and along the coast north of
Hamilton Inlet, between 900 and 1000 may be taken as Eskimo.
The following estimate of the Eskimo population living; on Hudson

*Tlii' census letuni for 18i|l gives a total of 138" Indians liclonginErtt; the posts
along the nortli shore of the St. Lawrence, to tlie eastvartl, and exclusive of, the
.Saguenay.

Changes in
]> iliulation.

Xunilier of
Eskimo.

42 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

WhitfH oil

Labrador

coast.

Total popula-
tion.

"Planters."

Strait and the east coast of Hudson Bay was supplied by Mr. R.
Gray, who was for upwards of ten years clerk at Fort Chimo, and
is well acquainted with the Eskimo of Ungava Bay : — From Cape
Chidley to Hope's Advance, 51 families ; about Hope's Advance, 30
families ; from Stupart Bay to Cape Wolstenholme, 80 families ; from
Cape Wolstenholme to Great Whale River, 80 families. The average
Eskimo family is small and rarely exceeds five persons. Taking this
as the average, the total population to the west of Cape Chidley
would be 1200 persons. This estimate is probably excessive, and
1000 persons would be nearer the number, if not still above it.
According to the Newfoundland census of 18"1, the total population
of the Labrador coast betsveen Blanc Sablon a Cape Chidley is 4106,
including the Eskimo already referred to. Subtracting the 1000
Eskimo would leave a resident white population of 3106 greatly
increased during the summer months by fishermen from Newfound-
land. Tn 1890, 10,430 men, 2076 women and 828 children from
Newfoundland were so engaged, in 854 vessels.

According to the Canadian census (1891), there is a white popula-
tion of 5728, scattered along the north shore of the Gulf of St. Law-
rence, to the eastward, and exclusive of those living about the mo'.'.th
of the Saguenay River, who number 2440.

To sum up, taking 3500 Indians, 2000 Eskimo and 8800 whites, the
total population of the Labrador Peninsula is 14,300, or, roughly, one
person to every thirty-five square miles.

The white population along the gulf coast consists largely of French
Canadians who obtain a livelihood chiefly from the fisheries, with
slight help from fur hunting during the winter. On the Atlantic
coast the whites, aorthward from the Strait of Belle Isle to Sandwich
Bay, are largely English speaking, and are either immigrants from
Newfoundland, or th" descendants of English fishermen formerly en-
gaged in the salmon fishery. Northward of Sandwich Bay, the white
inhabitants are, for the most part, descended from Hudson's Bay Com-
pany servants, who married Eskimo women and remained on the
coast after their services had expired. They are known along the
coast as " planters," and gain a fairly comfortable living from the cod
and salmon fishery in the summer, and by fur hunting during the
winter. They are all deeply in debt to the Hudson's Bay Company
and Newfoundland fishing firms for supplies advanced. Having no
capital of their own, they are compelled every pring, in order to carry
on their fishing, to obtain supplies and nets from the merchants.
If the season is favourable, they may be able to pay off their

•]

POPULATION.

43 L

'4

debts at its close; but, as a rule, of late years they have been
going deeper and deeper into debt, owing to the scarcity of fish along
the ooast where they are accustomed to make their fisheries. The
natives ascribe the failure of the fishery to the numerous trap-nets
now used along the coast by fishermen employed by the New-
foundland merchants. The use of these nets is said to be contrary
to the law of Newfoundland, but, as there is no strict government
patrol of the Labrador coast, the law is practically inoperative.

At the close of the fishery, the greater number of the " planters " Winter
leave their small houses on the coast, and proceeding to the heads of ''"'"'' *'^'''
the various bays, go into winter quarters in their small houses there.
During the winder they are engaged hunting fur-bearing animals.
These also are not so plentiful as formerly, owing probably, to the
large areas burnt over, either from fires accidentally made, or set on
purpose by the owners of schooners, who often fire the country along
shore, so as to easily make dry firewood for future seasons.

Each " planter " has a " path," or line of traps, often extending fifty Fur hunting,
miles or more inland, and as these paths cannot be covered in one day,
he has small " shacks," or log houses, at convenient intervals along
them, where he can pass the night with some degree of comfort.
Some of the paths are so long that they require a week to go over and
attend to the traps on the way.

During the months of April and May the planters and Eskimo are Seal hunting,
engaged at the seal hunt. They kill these animals on the ice of
the upper part of the inlets, by watching at their holes or cracks, and
Spearing them when they come to breathe or sun themselves. Form-
erly the takes were large, but of late years they have been so small that
many are abandoning the hunt. As soon as the ice leaves the bays,
seals are taken in nets set along shore. The seals are used principally
for local consumption, although some skins and a small quantity of oil
are exported. The skins are used for outer winter clothing and other
domestic purposes, while the fat and meat are preserved for dog food ;
for, as each "planter" has a team of dogs, varying in number from two
to six, and as the Hudson's Bay Company keep a large number of dogs,
a great quantity of seal meat is required.

Notwithstanding the decrease in the fishery, furs and seals, the
planters make a much better living than many of the poorer people in
cities ; and, if they were to exert themselves more, and were more
thrifty, they might make a comfortable and independent living. As it
is, with a reasonable amount of care, thought and labour, they can
procure sufficient provisions to keep their families well fed, as in the Food supply.

44 L

LABKADOU PENINSULA.

M

issiouanesi.

Educatiini.

Trilies of
Iiidiaii)<.

fall, after the close of the commercial fishery, they can obtain an abund-
ance of brook trout, that swarm at the mouths of all the streams
flowing into the sea. At this time, spruce parti idges are very plenti-
ful on their migration from the coast inland, while, later, ptarmigan
and rabbits are generally abundant. The proceeds of their fishery
would easily provide them with flour and provisions, while all Ijving
inland might raise a small crop of potatoes ; then, the proceeds of their
winter's hunt would, in most cases, be ample to supply clothes for a
year, and leave a surplus. This is, unfortunately, not the case, and a
number of families are often without sufficient food and clothing every
year.

For the spiritual benefit of the whites, the Methodist church of
Newfoundland has a mission station opposite liigolot, in charge of the
Rev. Mr. Pollock, who resides there a part of the time; the rest of his
time being taken up with house to house visitations to the planters. As
his district extends to and includes Sandwich Bay, one hundred miles
to the S'luth, where there is a large settlement, the time deroted to
each family is small. The Episcopal church has a mission school at
Sandwich ]3ay, in charge of Mr. L. Dicks, who also travels from house
to house, instructing the children.

In spite of lack of educational advantages, nearly everybody can read
and write, and all are very religious. As alcoholic licjuors are not openly
sold on the Labrador coast, cases of intoxication are exceedingly raie,
and many of the younger people do not know the taste of alcohol.
On the whole, these people compare favourably with those of more
civilized re^ion«, being frugal, moral, willing, good tempered, and
naturally intelligent ; their only fault, want of thrift and provi-
dence,'is largely due to their mode of living, absence from any market
of competitive labour, and the .system of credit and debt under which
they live.

The Indians of the Labrador Peninsula belong to tribes of the Algon-
kin family. The principal tiibes of Labrador are the Montagnais,
the eastern and western Nascaupees, and the coastal Indians of Hudson
Bay. The Montagnais inliabit the country extending south of a
' line drawn westward from Hamilton Inlet, to the headwaters of the St-
Maurice River. The Nascaupees inhabit the interior country north of
this line, or from the bottom of James Bay eastward to Hamilton Inlet.
The northern limit of their territory is marked by the Koksoak River,
from its mouth to the Stillwater Branch, and by this stream westward
to its head on the neighbourhood of Clearwater Lake, and thence west-
ward to Richmond Gulf on Hudson liay. This line divides the Indian
territory from that of the Eskimo, and the boundary is well observed.

u

\

tow.

]

POPULATION.

45 L

t

a

the latter keeping far to the north of it, when hunting deer inland, and
the Indians rarely crossing it from the southward.

The coastal Indians of Hudson Bay are confined to a narrow margin
extending from the bottom of James Ba.' to Little Whale River, along
the east coast.

The various tribes are closely related by intermarriage, and, although Ch,w idntiou
using different dialects, have many manners and customs in common, tiiu's. " "
The northern Indians have apparently migrated to their present terri-
tory, from a south-west direction, as their language contains many
words of the Sauteaux or Ojibway tongue ; whereas the southern
Indians speak purer Cree. The Nascaupees have traditions that their
people originally dwelt far to the south, on the north side of a great river,
with the sea to the eastward. They were driven northward by the
Iro!|U()is during the wars of the early French regime in Canada. Such
was the terror inspired by the Iroquois, who followed them beyond the Ktur cf the
southern watershed to the shores of Hudson Bay, and eastward along "'l'"""*-
the St. Lawrence to the Nataslujuan Kiver, that at present they use
their name to frighten the children. The writer had two Iroquois as
canoeraen on the Big and Great Whale rivers, and could only with
great difliculty, induce the native Indians to accompany him inland
along with tlieir traditional foes and conquerors. Theie are several
places between Hudson Bay and the Lower St. Lawrence, where great
massacres of the natives were- perpetrated by the Iroquois.

Tiie Mimtagnais are more or less of mixed blood, having intermarried Mimtagimis.
with the old coinriirs des bois and the French and English traders.
This admixture of white blood is seen in the better i)hysi<iue of the
tribe, the men being more muscular and broader than the pure Indian
of the interior. As a rule, the men are of medium height, but a few
are tall. The womeri are inclined to obesity as they advance in years,
like tlxeir sisters of the northern tribes. The western Nascaupees are, XnscauiicM's.
as a rule, the tallest men in Labrador, many of them being six feet
and over in height, straight and of light physique. Tiie eastern
Nascaupees are usually not above five feet six inches tall, slighth-
built and not at all muscular, being incapable of carrying half the
loads of t he Montagnais. They are also the dirtiest and most degraded
Indians of Labrador. The coastal Indians have apparently a large Castal
admixture of wiiite blood, as many of them have blue eyes and the men '"''""*
as a rule have strong beards. They bear in figure and face a certain
resemblance to their northern neighbours the Eskimo, being heavily
built and unlike the typical Indian. Tiie admixture of white blood
would account for this diflerence of physique, and it may also have

46

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

been induced by their living alonj? the sea coast. Their resemblance
to th? Eskimo ia not likely du' to a blood relationship, as the Indians
and Eskimo never take wives • x one another, nor have sexual inter-
course together.

Very litte is known definitely about the philology and ethnology
of the Indians, and the present aciount is only from desultory infor-
mation picPed up among them l)y th? writer,

Lnnguagf. Tlio lan{.uage,- as before stated, in various dialects of Cree, or a

mixture of Cree and Ojibway. The cialects are more numerous than
those of the four tribes given above. The Montagnais of Lake St.
John speak a somewhat different Jialect from that of Bersimis, and
it again differs fro,:i the dialectj of Mingan or Northwest River.
These differences of dialeci, in the same tribe are slight, and are mostly
in the slang and interjections. The same differences apply to the
dialects of the Nascaupee, Mistassini and Nichicun.din'eiing from that of
Fort Chimo, and all from that of Whale River and Rupert House. But
these differences are all so small that the Montagnais canoemen con-
versed readily with the natives at Mistassini, Nichicun, Fort Chimo
and Northwest River, and were only slightly puzzled on the coast of
Hudson Bay, where the number of Ojibway words is greater. A

Kcligion. large majority of the Indians of Labrador are Christians, the Monta-
gnais of the St. Lawrence and Hamilton Inlet being Roman Catholics,
while the Indians of the western watershed have been conv< vied by
the missionaries of the Church of England. Only the easl^er i Nas-
caupees are pagans, and most of them have a faint tinge of Chiistianity,
imparted on hurried visits by the Roman Catholic missionaries, between
Hamilton Inlet and Ungava Bay. The christianized Indians are
devoutly religious, attending strictly to the offices of the church during
the long periods of absence from the eye of the missionary. While in
the woods, they keep track of thp w^eks, ticking the days off on a
rough calendar. Tliey do not work on Sunday, and observe the fast
days. Notwithstanding their careful observance of the offices, their
religion is to a considerable extent leavened with old pagan supersti-
tions, and a sneaking regard is still held for the windago and other

Conjurors. evil spirits of their forefathers. It is almost laughable to see the
respect with which the most religious of them treat the well-known
conjurors or medicine men of the pagan Nasoaupees ; and they all
secretly believe that these persons can, if they wish, work harm by
the aid of evil spirits. All the Christian Indians can read and write,

Pklucation. those instructed by the English missionaries using a kind of syllabic
shorthand, while those under the French missionaries make use of
books printed in the ordinary way.

'•]

POPULATION.

47 L

Dishonesty and theft are unknown to the interior Indians ; pro- HonoHtv.
visions and outfit can be left anywhere inland with perfect safety for
any length of time. Only in a case of absolute starvation will provi-
sions be taken, and then only a small part, for which payment will be
left by the person taking them. It is to be regretted that along the coasts,
where the Indians are in close communication with the whites, their
honesty sufiers, and a good lookout must be kept, or property will be
stolen.

As a rule, the Indians have not a strict regard for the truth, and Morals,
speak it only when convenient. The missionaries have improved the
moral and sexual relations of the Indians, but there is still room for
improvement in the latter respect. Marriages are made early, the Mnniagf.
men taking wives as soon as they can support them, and the women
being given in marriage when they are fourteen or fifteen years old.
Among the Christian Indian? monogamy is practised, and the marriage
ceremony is performed by the missionaries, or, in their absence, by the
officers of the Hudson's Bay Company. Among the pagan Indians
many of the men have two wives, and some three or four, according to
the number they can support by their hunt. Continence is not usual.
Widows are in great demand in marriage, and often a young ' oy is
mated to a woman old enough to be his mother. As a widow inherits
her dead husband's hunting grounds, a marriage with her provides the
second husband with hunting grounds as well as a wife, and in conse-
quence widows are taken by you ig men without lands. The respect
shown by children to parents is great, and the will of the aged father children,
is law, even with middle-aged sons, who will not enter into any serious
undertaking without first consulting the head of the family. Children
are never beaten, \J^ soon learn to obey without punishment. As a
rule, the number of children borne by the women is small, rarely
exceeding five. The women become wrinkled and old before they are
forty years of age ; after which they often live for many years. The
men show the effects of age much less than the women, and it is
exceedingly difficult to tell their exact age between 50 and 70 years, as
the hair rarely turn.o grey. The greatest mortality is due v;. pulmonary
diseases, which are induced by exposure to cold and wet, with no uif,.,a8j.
covering on the feet but deerskin moccasins, which soak like blotting-
paper. " Lame back " incapacitates a number of the men, and is
probably due to disease of the kidneys. Complaints of the stomach
are also the cause of many deaths, owing to the weakening of that
organ by alternate periods of starvation and gormandizing. Scro-
fulous sores and ulcers are not uncommon, and appear to be inherited.

48 I

t.AIIKADOn PKNIN8UI.A.

lliiriiil.

M(i(l.-nf

living.

Aiimial visit
to the cuii.st.

The (lead tlu-oughout Labrivdor are buriod in the jjrovmd, and, only
when death takes place during tins winter, is the body placed in a tree
until the frost is out of the s(round. The olothing, gun and other
articles belonging to the deceased are often buried with him, or
placed on the grave, when the burial takes place in the wooils, and
no Indian would touc'i anything so left, or camp near one of these
lonely graves. The dead are mourned for according to the position
they occupied, and the grief displayed is deep and sincere. A curious
custom was noted in the interior, on the arrival of tiie various families
at the posts in the spring — insteiul of Joyous greetings the women tlasp
one another and inilulgo in a perind of silent weeping, after which
they cheer up and exchange gossip.

The annual routine of an Indian life is made up of twr> periods, the
short period, from one to three months, spentduring the summer at the
eoast, and th^ long period passed inlaiul. Those who trade at the
inland posts, are engaged throughout the sunnner transporting to
Hudsoii Hay the fur hunt of the past winter and bringing back the
supplies to form th«) next season's outfit. The amount of supplies is so
great and the number of men at these posts is so small, that every one
capable of working is eidisted, including half-grown boys and old men.
As most of the women anil children accompany the brigades of large
canoes, in their small canoes, the journey practically amounts to a
co-operative scheme of bringing in supplies, and differs only in this
respect from the annual visit to the coast of the indejiendent families.
The oidy Indians who do not come in contact wilh the white
traders during the summer, are some eighteen families who reside on
the .shores of a large lake about two hundred miles above the mouth of
the George River. These Indians never visit the coast during the
summer, and their only communication with the white traders is during
the early spring, when the younger men tramp to Davis Inlet on the
Atlantic coast, and there trade their furs for tea, tobacco and ammu-
nition. They do not buy clothing or provisions, and haul their pur-
chases home on long narrow toboggans over the crusted snow. This
little tribe of Indians carries on a small trade in the above mentioned
articles with the other neighbouring Indians of the interior. As they
reside in a district plentifully supplied with caribou, they depend
upon tiiese animals both for food and clothing, and are thus practically
independent of the traders.

The majority of the Indians who go to the coast, congregate at con-
venient centres in bands of six or more families, and in company
descend the rivers in their small bark canoes. The time of the spring
gathering js shortly after the ice leaves the rivers, when the fur of the

i

'•]

POPULATIoy.

49 L

t

otter hnconioH "common." F'iiich family carries with it th( packs of
fur-t ohtaiiiod duriri;^ tiio winter, to^'othcr with most of their m(>viil>lti
property. Tiio.so livin>{ fiutlie.st inhuid iire often more than two
weeks in (h'scondin;^ to tiio post, owinj{ to the long and diHimdt "roads"
tlipy have to follow. On arrival at tlie coast, the fur-packs are handed
over to the trader with whom tiie Indian deals, and a valuation bein;;
set upon them, the Indian is allowed credit for the value computed in
" skins " or " heavers," which are the units of value in the trade — the Fur tvmU:
price of the different furs heinj; reckoned in comparison with a medi-
um sized !)eaver skin, and the traders' supplies are valued in the same
nuinn(M'. On the St. Lawrence coast this system of barter is falling
into disuse, and cash is taking tlie place of the olfl heaver as a medium
of exchange. The summer season at the j)osts is jjassed in visiting
friends and in a round of gaiety. Very few of the Indians have iieen Sniniiii i lif«.
induced to cultivate land on their own account, although ihey some-
tim(?s work in the gardens of the traders and missionaries. The only
work that they v illiiigly undertake is in canoes, either atteiuiing lish-
ing parties or transporting provisions inland. During the summer
season a majority live in small cotton tents, hut some of the most
successful hunters own small log houses, in which they pass the sum-
mer. During the month of August, preparations are made for the
journey to winter t|uarters, and by the end of that month moat of the
Indians leave the various posts,

Owing to the extermination of the caribou in many parts of the
country and to an insutliciency of other game, the greater number of the
Indians are now obliged to purchase a considerable quantity of flour,
and carry it inland to their hunting grounds.

So much pr visions, along with other outfit, are now taken by the Trans)K>it of
southern Indie.ns that they have to make two or three trips with their ""I'l''"''*-
canoes at starting, and often they are more than two months in reach-
ing their winter quarters. In former years, tlie Hudson's Bay Com-
pany and other traders annually advanced the Indians sufficient pro-
visions and outfit to carry on their winter's hunt, and recouped them-
.selves in the following spring At present, to a great extent, this chnnge in
.system of advances has been abandoned, and the Indian only gets such ^.v»tiiii of
outfit and provisions as he can pay for in cash or fur. The change is
due largely to the losses entailed by close competition, and to the dishon-
est practices of many of the Indians, who instead of delivering their
fur to the persons who advanced to them, take it to rival traders
and exchange it for cash or other articles — leaving their debts unpaid.
The change is consequently justifiable where there is competition in the (j^ relation to
fur trade, but bears heavily on the Indian, who is naturally improvident ""* I"d>a"-
4

50 L

KAIIIIADOK PKNINHULA.

KIuuikIm,

^Atcrlniiia-
tioii of fiir-

aniiiiiilrt.

Winter tent.

and spotuU tlio proceed of lii.s aiuiiml liunt as soon iih lio ^ctH it, with-
out tliouj^lit or caro. in C()iiHe(|ueiu;i', wlion tlm liunt is a failure, wliicli
iH often tiio cuho tlirougii no fault of tlie hunter, the poor Indian lias
little or nothinj; to buy his ou tit with, and departs to the woods im-
properly HUpplii'd. To tliis t use is due much of the hardship,
Rtarvation anrl death reported . <nong th(^ Indians of the Labrador
Peninsula during the past few ) lars. With the exception of the
eastern Nasi-aupces, all the Indians now dress in clothin;,' procured
from the trading shops, and many of the southern Indians, having ac-
quired a taste for luxuries of civilization unknown to their fathers,
must nuike large hunts in order to griitify those tastes.

Kach fanuly is supposed to own a portion of territory with the ex-
clusive hunting rights to it. The territoi-y is generally divided into
three parts, each part being hunted over in successive years, and in
this manner the fur-bearing animals are allowed to recuperate. In the
south(>rn country extensive; (ires, too close hunting, and otluM' causes
are rapidly exterminating the animals, and the families (. "ning the.se
grounds, in order to obtain a living, are obliged to encroach upon their
northern neighbours. As the intruders care little or nothing about
keeping up the stock ou thests lands, the result is most disastrous, and
in a few years, if strict laws are not enacted, the fur-bearing animals of
the province of (Quebec will be practically exterminated, and the In-
dians, thus left without their only means of subsistence, will be reduced
to beggary, or will die off from famine.

As soon as the hunting grounds are reached and the cold weather
begins, the cotton tent is exchanged for the v.igwam or " metswap,"
which is constructed by removing the snow from a circle ten or twelve
feet in diameter, about the circumference of which poles six or eight
inches apart are planted sloping inwards so as to form a skeleton
cone. This cone is covered with cotton cloths, sheets of birch bark,
or dressed deer skin, often in part by all three, and a space is left at
the top about two feet in diameter for the escape of the smoke. The
removal of a pole leaves the space for a door, which is generally closed
with an old tlour-sack .split open, and bound to sticks at the ends
to keep it spread out. The bottom of the tent is Vianked up with snow
on the outside, while a thick bed of green boughs is laid over the
floor. The tire is built on a few stones in the centre, raised slightly
above the ground. Many of the southern Indians have small stoves
made out of sheet-iron instead of open tires, and thus avoid the con.
stant smoke which fills the interior, especially when the door ia fre-
quently opened.

0

FOI'Ur.ATIOV.

R1 L

I

Hoforo till* Iftkos imd streams tr«>eze up, liutitinjj is lurj^oly cRrried on Autumn hun
witli the gun, tlio TndiaiiK Hliootiii^' fnnii their cuikioh Imavor, uttor,
mink and niuHkrats, and in tiie burnt artuiH, where hlueherrieH are
|>l(intit'ul, hears The northern TndiauH at tiiis time are engaged in
tiieir j)iin(;i|>ai cariltou hunt, killing groat numl)ers by 8i)earing them
in the rivers, an they pass on their annual migrations. After the rivers
are frozen, most of the fur hunt ia made with traps ; these are either
steel traj)s or deadfalls of wood. The principal animals taken <luritig WintiT hunt,
the early winter are marten, fox and lynx. During the intense cold
of December, January and Februai'y, the wild animals move about
very little and hunting is unprofitable. iJuririg this period the Indians
<l not hunt uidcss compelled to do so by liunijer. In the month of
.March, the mai'teiis are once more travelling, and continut! to constitute .SpiinK limit.
the principal hunt until the small streams bc^gin to break up, when at-
tention is given to the beaver and otter and, later on, to th(! bear. In
this manner the winter routine is carried out, with the intervals mostly
filled in looking for ffjod, Ptarmigan and Canada grouse are killed during
the winter, along with rabbits, which are periodically plentiful, while
fish, ducks and geose aid in stocking the larder in the spring and fall.

When the St. Lawrence was first discovered, the Eskiujo inhabited K«kiiii(nili)n(ir
the north shore of the gulf as far west as Mingan. They maintained J'.'JiJ^,'" *
their position here until ICOO, when the Indians, having procured Hre-
arms from the French, waged unequal war on their old enemies and
drove them eastward to the Strait of Belle Isle, where the Eskimo main-
tained a fortified camp on an island near the western end of the strait
until 1630. Since then, a gradual retreat has been made northward,
and theii" i)re8ent southern limit is Hamilton Inlet, which appears to
have long been the head quarters of the southern Eskimo, and is named
Eskimo Bay on all the older maps. From hero these people are scattered
along the northern coast to Hudson Strait. Several large settlements
are found nt the Moravian Mission stations of Hopedale, Zoar, Nain, Muraviini
Okak and Raraah on the Atlantic coast. There are very few families ^t^tj',',","
between Nachvak and George River in Ungava Bay, the coast being
high, desolate and unfit to sustain a large population. The Eskimo
are more numerous along the west coast of Ungava Bay and Hudson
Strait, and are found along the east coast of Hudson Bay; and among
the outer islands of that coast, as far south as (Jreat Whale River. Of
late years, some three or four families have hunted on the islands in
James Bay.

Turner* divides the Eskimo inhabiting the coasts of the Labrador Tril«'« of
Peninsula into three or four sub-divisions, on account of sub-tribal dis-

Eskiino.

* Annual Rejxjrt U. S. Bureau of Ktlinoloay, 1889-90.— EthnoloKy of the Ungava
District, Hudson Bav Territorv, Lucien M. Turner.

4*

Iin])rf)V('ineut
by mis^icin-
arieH.

Pliysiciuo.

52 L

LABRADOR PEXINSI'LA.

tinctions maintained among themselves. Tiie names given to these tribes,
by Turner, ai-e those used by the Eskimo of Ungava Bay. The first sub-
division includes all those dwelling along the Atlantic coast and along
the south shore of Hudson Strait tc the mouth of the Leaf River, a
few miles northward of the mouth of the Koksoak River. These peo-
ple call themselves Suhiniinyut, ''those who dwell at or in the sun," or
the dwellers in the east. The second sub-division embraces the Eskimo
dwelling along the south shore of Hudson Strait, between Leaf ]{iver
and Cape Wolstenholme, at the entiance to Hudson Bay. These peo-
ple are called the Tahagniyut, " dwellers in the shade," or the western
ppople. By the Hudson's Bay Company they are known as " North-
erners." The third sub-division includes those living along the east
coast of Hudson Bay, and they are designated the Itivimyut, or " the
dwellers on the other side." A fourth division may be made of the
Eskimo of the outer islands of Hudson J'ay, who, according to the
traders and missionaries, ditt'er from their neighbours along the coast,
both in language and custon\s. Theyare known as the Kigiktagmyut,
or "Island people." Along the Atlantic coast, as far north as Ifope-
dale, few or none of the Eskimo are pure blooded. To the north-
ward the iloravian missionaries keep the natives from contact with
the whites, and in consequence there are very few of mixed blood. In
Ungava Bay and on Hudson Bay there are, around the Hudson's Bay
posts, many half-breeds, tlie result of marriage between the employees
and Eskimo women.

The natives along the Atlantic coast, from Hopedale to Nachvak,
have long been under the direct intlui'nceof the ^'^oravian missionaries,
and, in consequence, have abandoned many of their ancient customs.
Polygamy is no longer tolerated among them ; in many cases they
conform with a fair standard of civilization, and are quite religiousj
although very superstitious.

On the coast of Hudson Bay, mainly through the endeavouis of the
Rev. Mr. Peck, of the Church Jlission Society, most of the Eskimo
have been converted to Christianity. On this coast the missionaries
do not reside constantly among the natives, and in consequence these
people are very liable to relapse, during their absence into some of
their former pagan habits. The Eskimo of Hudson Strait have not
yet been brought under the influences of Christianity, and afford a
better chance for the study of their native customs and traits.

It is customary to think of the Eskimo as considerably below the
stature of the average European. This is not the case with tiiose
inhabiting the coasts of Labrador. The males, as a rule, are quite as
tall as the average white man, but owing to their broad, heavy build,

1

•]

POPULATION.

53 L

they appear shorter than tl.oy really are ; and this appearance is en-
hanced by their wide garntents of hairy deer or seal skins. Where
seen bj' the writer on Hudson Bay, and at Fort Chimo, George River,
Nachvak, Davis Inbt and Hamilton Inlet, several of the men at
each place were six feet and upwards in height, the average height
being about five feet fix inches. The women, as a rule, are short and
stout, and look in their native dress of deer-skin coat, trousers and
long seal boots, much shorter than they actually are.

The temporameii- of the Eskimo differs much from that of the Tempera-
Indian, the former being jovial, good-natured and very industrious. ""'"*■•
They are good workers with tools, and on the Hudson Bay coast the
blacksmiths confess that the natives, without the use of a forge, can
work and temper iron better than they can. These people, livinj. as
they do on the coast, depend largely upon marine animals for food Food,
and clothing. Their principal food is seal meat, together with por-
poise, whale meat and fish. They also kill many caribou, to the
north of the Koksoak River. For this purpose, they travel inland
from the coast, but the pursuit of this animal is ohiefly for its skin,
used in clothing. Thf hunters quickly tire of the f'esh, it being not
fat enough to suit their taste. During the winter, chey hunt fur, to
purchase what sui)pHes they maj' need from the traders. The princi-
pal furs taken by them are red, cross, black, w hite and blue foxes,
white bears, wolve . and wolverines, besides deer and seals. The
llskimo have not as many civilized wants as the Indians, the prin- T^ade.
cipal articles of tcr.de taken in exchange for their furs being am-
munition, tobacco, knives and iron, tea, sugar and needles. They
do not buy much flour or biscuit, and very little European clothing.

With the exception of the Atlantic coast Eskimo, who live ab lut Haliitations.
the mission stations in sm.all log houses, the summer camp is made
much like an Indian wigwam, save that it has a ridge-pole, and
is covered with seal-skins. During the winter, small circular snow
houses are used. For travel du-ing the summer, two kinds of boats
are used, the kaiak or men's boat is long and narrow, and formed of
a wooden frame covered with seal-skins, leaving only a small circular
opening large enough to admit the body of a man. The bow is long
and pointed and projects above the water forward, the stern is fuller,
and much lower and rounder. This craft is for one man, who pro- Boats.
pels it with a double bladed paddle, and it is used for hunting. In
these small boats the islanders of Hudson Bay frequently cross some
fifty miles of open water to the mainland.

The umiak or women's boat is much larger, and like the former is
made from seal skins stretched on a wooden frame. In shape and size

54 L

LAURADOR PENINSULA.

Cookiiij;
uteiisilN.

it resembles a deep, Hat-bottomed punt, and is capable of carrying the
heavy seal-skin tent and all the other belongings of a family, when
moving from one place to another. In winter, dogs and sleds are used
to travel with, the Eskimo not being nearly as good a walker as
.Sleds. the Indian. The .sleds are made of two runners of wood, from nine to

eighteen feet long, held in position, from eighteen to twenty-four
inches apart, by numerous cross pieces. The sled is shod during the
cold winter months with walrus ivory or whalebone attached to the
runners with wooden pegs, or else the bottom of the runner is coated
with vegetable mould, which is frozen on and then shaped with a
knife or plane so as to resemble the head of a large T rail, both in
shape and size. This is coated with a thin skin of ice and answers
admirably during the cold unbroken winter In the spring time,
runners of hoop-iron are preferred. During the winter, cooking is
carried on in the siow houses over soapstone lamps in the form of a
shallow triangulai dish, about fifteen inches long and eight inches
wide. These dishes are nearly filled with seal oil, and the v.ick is
formed of dry moss placed round the sides. Formerly soapstone
kettles were used for cooking, but the.se are almost entirely super
seded by tin or copper kettle^' purchased from the Hudson's Bay
Company.

Disease. The habits of the i ncivilized Eskimo are far from cleanly, and they

appear to have a dfjided objection to the use of water except for
drinking purposes. In corsequence, the principal diseases from which
they sufljir arise from their filthy habits and the close vitiated atmos-
phere in their tightly closed houses, laden with the odours ot decom-
posing cnimal food and othe." filth. (Jver half the Eskimo die f f
pulmonary troubles due to these causes and to exposure. Many suffer
and die from scurvy, caused by devitalized blood and their excessively
fatty food while remaining sedentary during the winter. As a rule,
monogamy is practised, although many of the better hunters among
the unchristianized natives have two and some three or four wives.

Marriape. The women are married early, generally at about fourteen or fifteen
years and often before that age, and these early marriages result in
few and weakly children. The marriage ceremony is very simple. The
consent of the parents or other relatives of the girl is obtained by
presents or favour, and, if the girl is favourable to the union, she goes
with her husband. When the girl refuses, she is soon coerced by her
relatives. The marriage tie is easily broken, and it is seldom that a
man lives with a woman for a iviuiber of years. Jealou.sy, resulting
from a laxity of morals or inconipatibility of v-empe', dissolves the
marriage without ceremony, the woman returning to her relations

FISHEfllbS.

00 L

until taken by another man. The family is usually of two or three Children,
children, although there are sometimes eight or ten, but many die in
childhood. Like the Indians, the Eskimo never inflict corporal punish-
ment on their children, who without it early learn, however, to obey
and respect their elders.

The dead are placed in a sitting position, with the knees drawn
tightly up, and the whole body covered with seal- skin or deer-skin. The
body is placed in this manner on the bare rock, and is covered with
stonf J to prevent the birds and animals getting at it.

Like the Indians, they believe in a future state, wheie the spiritual Beliefs.
conditions closely resemble those of the material world. As every
object is endowed with a spirit, clothing, spears, gun, kaiak and other
articles, are deposited near the grave, so that the departed may use the
spirits of these articles, in his new existence separated from the body.
The spirits of material objects are supposed to be released as soon as
they decay and if they are found removed, it is said, that the spirit of
the dead has taken thera for use in the spiritual world. All objects
animate or inanimate, have both a mai;erial and a spiritual existence ;
and there are other spirits, mostly of a malignant character, which
can be appeased by gifts.

It is easy to understand that, holding such beliefs, they highly Conjurors,
esteem, fear and respect the conjurers, whom they suppose to have
power over the various spirits, including those that cause disease and
death. The conjurers also claim to influence the movements of the
■Jeer and other animals, and are supposed to control the weather.
Unlike the Indian conjurer, who performs his incantations concealed
in a small tent, his Eskimo confrere invokes and exorcises the malign-
ant spirits openly, ^r with only his head covered up. Some of the
Eskimo while awsiy the time during winter, by making rude carvings Art.
out of walrus tusk or bear teeth. The -zarvings represent various
birds and animals, or models of their boats, sleds, or implements. '
Some of the carvings show considerable skill and artistic taste, especi-
ally those made under the direction of the Moravian missionaries.

The Eskimo are very fond of singing, instrumental music anddanc- Music,
ing, and readily learn to play the violin. At Hopedale and Nain the
natives have orchestral music to accompany part singing in the church
services, and many of the Eskimo of the Atlantic coast plaj second
parts on the violin, showing that they have a ftlr idea of harmony.

FiSIIEHIES.

In the appendices at the end of the present report will be found lists
und short notes on the mammals, birds and fishes of the interior of the

56 L

L.\nUAI)OR PENINSULA.

I I

Labrador Peninsula, and it remains only to remark here on the value
of the inland fisheries. The numerous lar;;e lakes of the several water-
sheds, and most of the rivers, especially those flowing north and east,

Food fiHhes of are stocked with an inexhaustible supply of food fishes of large size
mlamilakes. . ,..,,. , ■ ^i ^ ^ ji i

and superior quality, including among other species the lake and brook

trout, land-locked and sea-run salmon, whitefish, pike, pickerel, suckers
and ling or freshwater cod. Along the southern, eastern and northern
coasts. ♦:hecod is taken in large quantities as far as Ungava Bay, which
is the present limit where trial has been made for taking this fish.
Salmon are found plentifully along the coasts as far as the wijst side of
Ungava Bay, which appears to he the western limit of the Atlantic
salmon. Very little is known ofticially or otherwise concerning the
Hudson Hay. fisheries of that gi'eat inland sea, Hudson Bay, and a great amount
of wealth may be lying dormant in its waters from lack of knowledge
concerning its fisheries. As regards the inland fisheries, owing to the
distance from available routes to a market, they will probably never be
used to their full extent, and even the best situated lakes will not be
fished for many years to come, or until railways are built through the
interior. Three large lakes of the interior are known to contain con-
siderable numbers of harbour seals {l'/ioc(( citiiUna), which are com-
pletelj- land-locked, and never visit the ocean.

Chamoucliou-
an Rivor.

Detailed Description of Routes E.vplored.

C/iamonrhoxaii River.

The Chamouchouan River enters Lake St. John at its north east
corner. It is about three-iiuarters of a mile wide at its mouth, and
is very shallow when the water of the lake is at its lowest stage, there
being a ditl'erence of twenty-seven feet between the high and low water
level of Lake St. John,* owing to its contracted discharges being
unable to carry off the great volume of water brought down in the
spring by the numerous large rivers emptying into it. The
river, in its lower p.vrt, is obstructed by three large and several
small islands, that extend upwards to St. Felicien, some eight miles
from its mouth. Its current for this distance is sluggish, the river
flowing between low banks of clay and alluvium. During high water
the lake backs up to this point, flooding much of the low lands on
either side.

At St. Felicien, there is a small rapid full of large boulders, and for
five miles above, the current continues swift, to the first heavy rapid,

•Lfvels of (I k L. St. J.
level lit l^iiebec.

Ry.— High water, 353 ft; low water, 320 ft. alx)ve sea-

•]

CHAMOL'CHOUAN RIVEK.

57 L

where a portage is necessaiy. This portage is 150 yards long,
and passes over the bare rocks. Twelve hundred yards above, is the
Salmon Portage, where the river falls over two cascades, the upper
being a direct fall of fifteen feet.

One mile above the portage, the Salmon River enters from the west. Sahnon River.
This stream is about fifty miles long, and takes its rise in a number
of small lakes, near the sources oi the CrOche and Windigo brc: ches
of the St. Maurice River.

The third portage is about seven miles above the second. Between
them the river is about 500 yards wide and flows with a swift current,
the banks, which have been gradually rising from St. Felieien, are now
in places above 100 feet high, and are. composed of clay overlain by
stratified sand.

It is three miles and a half from the third portage to the Bear Bearx'ortages.
Portage, wiiere tiiere is a fail of fifty feet. Tliis portage is on the east
side, and is a n)ile and a quarter long. From its upper end to the
Little Bear Portage, the distance is a mile and a half. Here, a rooky
point jutting out from the east side, causes the river to make a sharp
turn, with a fall of about twentj'-five feet. The portage is 300 yards
long and crosses tiie point.

Within the next two miles, there are two other portages on the east
side, past heavy rapids, the whole bringing the river up nearly to a
level with the surrounding country.

Beyond the last portages there are small rapids at intervals for a
mile, then the river widens out to about a third of a mile, and
flows with a strong, even cuirent, in a shallow sandy channel, for seven
miles, to the thirty-fourth mile from its mouth. Five large islands lie
in this portion of the river. They are all low and sandy and are well-
wooded with swamp ash, elm, balsam poplar and willow. Along the
lower parts of this course the banks are low, and the surrounding
country flat, with a soil of sandy loam. As the other end is approached) Simdy snil
the banks rise gradually, until at the sharp bend to the westward, one ijear' Purtairf
mile from the end, those on the east side rise abruptly over one hun-
dred feet above the water, and are compo.sed wholly of stratified sand-
At this bend a portage route passes up the steep bank to the flat
sandy plain above, which it follows northward through several snjall
lakes on the head-waters of Picouabi River. From there the route
passes into Lake Jim, a long narrow body of water that extends north-
ward in what appears to 1j» an old river-valley, until it joins the Washi-
nieska River, which, above the junction, flows in a continuation of
this valley, while below it turns eastward, and with numerous rapids
and falls empties into the Mistassini River.

t I

58 L

LAUK.'DOR PENINSULA.

(liKid liiiid
along the
lower river.

Settlements

After the westward course of one mile, befcre mentioned, the
Chamouchouan River again turns north, and a series of lon^;, heavy
rapids begin, the lowest of which is called the Pimonka (last p'ae)
}lapid.

The land on both sides of the river, as for as Pimonka, has been laid
out into townships, and subdivided by the Quebec government. The
townships of Parent and Normandin are on the east side, while those
of Ashouapmouchouan, Demeules and Dufferin are on the west side.
The soil along the lower parts of the river is very rich and strong, being
formed of a clay sub-soil, with .sandy loam on top. Above the Salmon
River, the deposits of .sand are thicker and the soil is lighter, but still
sutiicirntly good to produce excellent crops of wheat and other cereals.

The Archtean highlands come within a mile of Lake St. John, on its
west side. These continue northward, but do not cross the river until
the foot of Pimonka Rapid is reached, thus leaving a wide margin of
flat land on the west side. On the east side there is a Hat clay and
sand plain between the Chamouchouan and Mistassini rivers. This
plain rises in a succession of terraces from Lake St. John northward.

Settlements extend up the west side of the river about five miles
beyond Salmon River. On the east side, they approach close to the
Bear Portage, while the road to Normandin, a larye .settlement along
the Picouabi River, passes close to the Little Bear Portage. Advan-
tage is taken of this road to transport canoes and outfit past the
rapids and portages below.

From the above, it will be seen that, although considerable settle-
ments exist along the river, there is nmch good land still unoccupied,
especially between the Little Bear Portage and Pimonka Rapid.

Above this rapid, the character of the country and river change
completely : the former, instead of spreading out into a flat, sandy
plain, is high and rough, with rocky hills that rise from 150 to
300 feet above the river. These are covered with sand and boulder-
clay, and are not nearly so fit for purposes of agriculture. The river
becomes contracted and very rapid, rising 341 feet in twenty-two
miles, including the Chaudiere Fall and rapids, where the rise is
120 feet in less than a mile. The Pimonka Rapid is three-quarters
of a mile Ipng, and is followed in the next mile by two short ones.
Extending from the thirty-ninth to the fortieth mile, is the Deep-bot-
tom Rapid, which cannot be ascended with canoes during high water,
owing to the depth inshore being greater than the length of the poles,
and also to the steep rocky banks, which render tracking impossible.
With the exception of one short rapid, there is quiet water ^''om the
head of that rapid to the forty-fourth mile.

•]

CHAMOUCHOUAV RIVER.

59 L

At the forty-second mile, tlie Great Mouchipon River comes in from
the west. It is a small stream, flowing in a valley about a mile wide,
and draining a number of small lakea t" the north-west. A portage
route, for light canoes in the spring, passes up this river, and comes
out above the Chaudiore Fall, thus avoiding the heavy rapid between.
From the forty-fourth mile to the Chaudiere Fall, twelve miles above, cim\idien'
the river is a continuous succession of rapids connected by short ''"'■
stretches of swift current, rendering it necessary to make the whole
ascent with poles. At the White-spruce Rapid, near the forty-ninth
mile, there is a short portage on the west side past a heavy pitch.

The country becomes more rugged as the river is ascended. The Timber.
hills rise abruptly from 200 to 400 feet above the water, and, as they
i"ere burnt over some jrears ago, their rocky sides are nov only partly
wooded with small second-growth aspen, white birch, Banksian
pine and spruce, while the standing blackened trunks of the older
forest give the whole region an uninviting, barren appearance.

The portage past the Chaudiere Fall is nearly a mile long. From
its lower end it rises sharply 200 feet to the summit of a sandy hill,
and then runs along its edge, to within a short distance of its upper
end, where it passes along the rocks near the river. There art here
three distinct falls connected by heavy rapids, the lower fall having a
sheer descent of sixty feet.

Within half a mile of the upper end of the portage, is another, about
400 yards long, called the Little Chaudiere Portage. It passes a deep
heavy rapid, impassable with canoes.

A short distance from the head of this portage, the river leaves the
narrow rocky gorge in which it has been confined, and its valley
broadens, leaving a wide margin of low land on either side. The course
of the river can be seen up the valley for over ten miles. The Cood land
river has a moderate current ir. a wide valley, bounded by low, cimmiiiie
rounded, rocky hills, covered with small second-growth timber. Much laH-
of the land in this valley appears fit for agriculture.

About one mile above the Little Chaudiere Portage, the Chegobich ciiegobicli
River comes in from the westward. This river is much used as a route ^^'''*'^-
by the Indians who travel to or beyond Lake Ashouapmouchouan. By
it the distance to that lake is greatly shortened, as this route is the
hypothenuse of a right-angled triangle, of which the main river forms
the other two sides.

The Chegobich River varies from fifty to one hundred yards in
width near its mouth, and is quite shallow. As far as the first portage.

'%

rj-

r

CheoroV)icl
Lake.

GO I,

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

a mile and a half up, the banks are low, and aio composed of coarse
boulder-flay. The firf.L portage is one hundred and twenty yards long,
ind p. sses a heavy rapid ; it is followed, a quarter of ii mile above, by a
aecond portage, over one mile long, past anotlitir heavy rapid, ei\ding
in a chute of forty feet. Then follows a mile and a (juarter of sw-ft
water, with two short portages, to the Pcncht' Portage, 700 _yaids
long, with the 8avanne Portage, of I'OO yards, a half mile above.
I'eyond this t' le pro stretches of sluggish water, broken by small
rapids for four miles, when a portage of SCO yards passes a chute of
twenty-H^i' feet.

From the first portage to beyond Savanne Portage, the counti'y sur-
rounding the river is rolling and somewhat rocky, with small second-
growth forest covering it. Beyond the Savanne Portage, the banks are
low and sanJy, with swampy land extending to the low hills that bound
the valley on either side, from half a mile t) a mile away from the
rivei'. Patches of old forest remain on the swampy land, but by far
the greater part is small second-growth trees.

.-Vlx ve the chute, the river for nine miles winds through a wide,
swampy valley, its sluggish current being broken oidy in a few places
by short rapids. In this distance a number of small tributaries enter,
chiefly from the south-west, where they take their rise in numerous
lakes on the eastern slope of the Partridge INIountains. These form a
ridge of rounded hills, that appears to run nearly north-aad-south and
to cross the river near Chegobich Lake.

The river, having now become very small, is inclosed in a nai-rov
vi.Uey betwe >n mcky hills thn*^ rise from one hund. 'd to ♦^hiee hundi'td
feet above it. and in the nex'. cwo miles to the lake it is .i.uch broken
by rapiJs, tilled with large bouldei's, entailing several short portages.

Chegobich Lake runs northward for nine miles from its discharge ;
it then turns sharply to the eastward, and extends in that direction
some fifteen or twenty miles. The geneni] witlth of the southern arm
is about or.e mile. Il is said to be very de^p and the water is ckar
and brownish. Only three small rocky islands are found in the south-
ern arm. The lake is surrounded by low roundod hi'ls, highest
on the east sid :, where they culminate in Chegobich Mountain, a
bold rounded hdl rising 4:^0 feet .above the water near the outlet, and
forming a conspicuous landmark. The other hills on this side never
exceed an elevation of SfiO feet, while on the west side they are less
than 200' ;t. There was more unburnt timber about this lake than
liad been seen anywhere along the route from Lake St. John ; but it
is no; large, and is chietly black spruce. From the angle between the

]

OHAMOUCHOUAN RIVER.

61 h

.

two arms of the lake, a portage a mile ami a half long, passes weatvvard
over a flat, dry. sandy plain, and ends at a small sluggish stream.
This stream has a very tortuous course through a wide swamp.
Aftei' passing two small lakes, it finally flows into the south-east end
of Lake Ashouapmouchouan, two miles and a half from the portage
in a straight line, hut over seven miles by the crooked course of the river.
A few low, rounded hills of gneiss rise out of the swamp, but, apart
from these, there is very little solid land, where small bin spruce,
larch and Banksian pine are found growing.

Fjako Ashouapmouchouan is about six miles long with an average T.akc .VhIkhi-
breadth of one mile. Its shore-line is brokei by a number of rocky ^M""'>"chou.ii..
points and shallow bays, while the surrounding country, as a rule, is
'ow and flat, with a few ridges, never more than a hundred feet above
the level of the lake, which, according to Richardson, is 1 184 feet above
the sea. The water is not nearly so deep or clear as that of Chego-
bich Lake. The surrounding country seems to be highly fertile, and
in the clearings about the old Hudson's Bay post timothy grass grows
in al)undance, while small fruits appear to ripen early.

The Chauiouchouan River, al)ovo here called the NikauKau River, Xikivubau
flows in at the north-west angle of the lake, and about a mile beyond '^'''"
leaves it again at the north-east corner. The northern part of the
lake is silted up with material brought down and deposited by the
river, and is a favourite place for nets, great quantities of fine white-
fish being caught there.

Above the lake, the Nikaubau River for several miles, to the Pole
Rapid, t!ows with a sluggish current through a low country broken by
a few rocky hills. Above the rapid, the land becomes higher and the
soil, compose«^ of boulder-clay, rises from twenty to eighty feet aliove
the river, and is oroken by an occasional rocky ridge sometimes 200
or 300 feet high. Little Nikaubau Lake is about twelve miles above
Pole Rapid portage, and between are a number of short heavy rapids,
with a short portage past one of them. This lake is one mile across,
and is connected by a couple of lake-expansions of the river with the
larger lake three miles above. Lake Nikaubau is four miles long, and
from a half to one and a half miles broad. It is surrounded by low
and apparently swampy country covered with a medium growth of
spruce, larch, balsam fir, Banksian pine, aspen, balsam poplar, and
white birch, with a few small cedars. It may here be noted that the
ravages of the imported larch saw-fly (XnnalKx Erichsonii, Hartig.^
extend to the heiglit-ofland ; the greater part of the larch trees Timber,
have been attacked, and large numbers are already dead. It is
learned from the Indians that these trees first showed signs of death

62 t

I.AIIIIAOOK PENINSULA.

iioitli of Lake St, John, some tliroo or tour yeiirs ago. The trees
north of Lake Mistasaini still remain unattackecl. but it appears to
be only a matter of time before all the larch of Labrador will be
(lestroyt'd, an the pest is spreading rapidly northward.

T!ie Foani-fall ]liv(tr is tin; largest stream entering fiuke Nikaubf.u ;
it flovvs from the south-west, and enters tlie lake near its outlet at the
south end. There is a route by this river to the head-waters of the
St. Maurice Hiver, which was surveyed by liicliardson.
f'oiintrvnlioiit A small stream, (lnwing into the north end of the lake, leads by a
chain of six little lakes to the watershed b('tween the St. Lawrence
and Hudson Hay. From Lake Nikaubau it is twenty-four miles to
the head cf the stream and the surrounding country is Hat, low and
Hwanpy. One hill abort .'iOO feet above the general level, lies close
to the watershed ami forns a conspicuou.s landmark.

Short stiff rapids are met with along the stream between the lakes.
At the fourth or Hranch Lake, the river divides, the larger branch
flowing in from the north-east, where it is said to drain a number of
small lakes immediately .south of fjake Wahwanichi. Owing tr)
numerous rapids and other obstructions it is unused as a canoe route.

hci(?litof
luiii'

Klivatinii at
\vatfrsln<l.

Lake Oliatii-
ognian.

lliight-tif-Laiid to Lnki- Mrxliixunii.

The general course of the route from Lake St. John to the height-of-
land is about north-west, while the distance is nearly one hundred and
sixty miles. From the watershed to liakt; Mista.ssini the genfTal
direction is nearly N. 30 E., or almost at right-angles to the former
coijrsp, tfie distance being about one hundred and ten miles. On
crossing the height-of land the route pas.ses through threi^ large lakes
before reaching Mistassini. These lakes are named Obatogainan,
('hibougamoo and Wahwanichi, and they are connected with one
another by pf)rtage-rou ,es passing through small lakes and the streams
flowing from them.

The height-of-land, according to Richardson, is here 1360 feet above
sea-level. It is crossed by a portage of half a mile, ending at a small
stream that flows into Lake Obatogaman, five miles distant. The fall
to the lake is one hundred and fifty feet. The surrounding country is
uneven and sandy, and supports only a small growth of black .spruce
and Viirch.

Lake Obatogaman is very irregular in outline, being broken up into
a number of deep bays by long narrow points ; its surface is also
crowded with innumerable small rocky islands to such a degree that

lIKinUT vir-LANI) TO MIHTA8HINI.

63 I,

navigntion without a guide is almost iin{)ossil)i(>. Tiie lako is e.stinuitod
to be about twelve miles long from north-east to south-west, aiul about
ten miles broad. Its shore-line must considerably exceed one hundred
miles in length, owing to the great irregularity in its shape. The
water is not very clear, and as a rule appears to bo shallow. The out.
let is in the .south-wostern part of the lake, and forms a brunch of the
Nottoway lliver, which empties into Rupert Bay, the south-western
extension of James l$ay. Whitefish, pike, pickerel and suckers are \-"i*\\.
caught in abundance here, and sturgeon are also said to ascend to tlu;
lake, and are taken at certain soiisons in largo numbers near the
outlet.

The surrounding country, except toward the ^.outh, is gen«!rally tiat cimnictfrof
and low, with ridges of low granite hills rising above the general -"""'•>•
swampy lands. The .soil is thin and sandy a'ld t\w timber small along
the shore and on the islands. Tt consists chiefly of black spruce, along
with balsam fir, white birch, lianksiun pine and larch. The canoe
route cro.sses the lake in a north-west direction for ten i.isle.s, between
islands and \niHt long points, to a narrow bay, which is followed north-
east four miles to the first portage on the route to Luke Chibougamoo.

The portage-route is nine miles long, and first passes up a small stream
falling into the head of ilie bay. Along this stream three portages
are made past rapids, and then a portage leads from the small
swampy lake at its head, to/.nother small lake which discharges
into Lake Chibougamoo. Following tliis sluggish stream four mih^s,
through a swampy country with low hills of rock rising at intervals,
the south west bay is reached. Along the portage-route most of the tIihImt.
timber has been burnt ofl', leaving only clumps of black spruce and
larch growing on the lower swampy ground. The level of Lake
Chibougamoo is forty feet above that of Obutogaman. Its greatest i,ji[jp ci,iiM>u.
length is about twenty-five miles, from N. 30 E. to S. 30" W., and it «'">»>"•
is over six miles wide in the broadest part. The southern end is
divided into two buys by a narrow point, three miles and a half long.
A high rocky ridge projects twelve miles from the northern end,
dividing that portion of the lake also into two bays, of which the
eastern is the larger, being about twelve miles deep and four miles
broac. The western bay is seven miles long, and is very irregular in
width, being a succession of small lakes connected by narrows. The
lake has on its western side two outlets, about three miles apart.
The northern one is near the raouth of the north-eastern bay. They
are both only about 200 yards long, and the water falls twenty -five feet
into another lake lying parallel to Chibougamoo, and separated from

C4 r.

I,AltHAI)()U I'ENlNHir.A.

it only hy iv narrow rocky riilgi'. Tliis Ninullir liiko is twelve iniles
loM^, aiul from oni* to two miles wide. The lake Im well stocked with
liirgi) lake trout iiiid whitcjJiHli, and its water is very elear and deej>.
From it Hows another hranch of the Nottosvuy Hi\rr, wliich unites
with one from Oliatof^aman some considerable distance tu the Huuth-

Wfst.

Cliiintrti I "f Lake Cliil)ongamoo is studded with numerous low rocky islands,
1 l'!.'(''l Uii'* •■'^P'-'ciftlly along its eastern side and in the northeast hay ; a few are
K'nii"'. also scatteri'd up the western half, as an apparent exttiiision of the

lidye foi'Miinji; the southern point. The shores of the lake are low,
and are either formed of solid rock or of largo rounded boulders, often
found piled up in low wall:4 by the action ..i" the lakt? ii'e. The land
rises gently from the (iastorn side to the hriylit of land sonui «'ight or
ten miles distant.
HilU. The ridge between the two lakes, on the west side, is low in its

southern part, but between the two discharges I'ises to a height of
'2^)U feet, in a bare rocky hill, called Paint .^(^untain, from the rusty
colour of the rocks, (hm to the decompositinn of iron pyrites in thr>m.
The north-west bay is surrounded by high rocky hills, arranged in
sharp ridges parallel to the direction of lh(^ Like. These culminate in
the Sorcerer and .Juggler mountains. The former is situated near the
end of the point Ijetween the two northern bays, and is estimated to
rise 125 feet above tlie wattu' ; th(! latter lies a short distance to tlio
norili of the head of the north-west bay; it appears to bo somewhat
higher than the other, and ends in a sharp cone, having perpenilicular
sides fifty feet high, and is probably composed of massive diorite. Frfiin
its resemblance; to the tents used by the Indian conjurors, it has l)e<'n
called the " juggler's house," and is supposed to be the dwelling place of
evil spirits. The outline of the hills in this locality is sharply serrated,
in marked contrast to the rounded outline usually seen in the
Laurentian hills. This dift'erenco is ])robably due to the nature of
the rocks forming the hilN, which are chiefly a soft, green chlorite or
Timber. altered hornblende schist easily affected by the weather. The timber

about the lake is larger and better than at Lake Obatogaman. Black
spruce predomii\ate ; white spruce, balsam tir, larch and Hanksian pine
dso occur, together with medium-sized birch, aspen, and a few cedars.
The higher country at the north end li.is been mostly burnt over, and
is covered with snuiU second-growth a.spen, bircli and Eanksian pine.

From Lake Chibougamoo to Lake Wahwanichi, the distance is four
miles, the portage-route passing from the hend of the north-west bay up,
over a burnt hill about 300 feet, to a small lake, and thence through
three other small lakes, by intervening portages, to Lake Wah-

..

IIKlriIITl)K-l,ANr) TO I.AKK MIMTASdl Ml.

00 L

wiuiiclii, wlilcli in alM)Ut 'JUO tVet liij{lifr tliim Liiko Chil)ouj{ftino(i. The
country jiiiMscd thntUKi' l»y tlio {xji'tiiKorouto is niUKh ftiul rocky, iviul,
iiH all till) ^'reeii wimkI Iiiim Ixntii burnt oil', it prcHv'ntH ii vory hiirnm ft|>-
peanmce, Lako Wiiliwiinichi iicM |iaralltil to Lako ChilKiuKamoo. It I,iik<' ^ynll•
is twenty-four niilcM loriK, wliilti its breadth varies from half a mile to
four miles, with an avurago of one mile. 'Flie south-west end in
divided into a number of lunj^ parallel ImyH by narrow rocky ridges,
which rise from fifty to 2UU feet above the surface of tlu! lake.
There are three of these bays on the western side, and one on the
east side. The former are all about four miles deep, and vary from
a ((uarter to half a nule in width ; the eastern one is nearly six miles
long. I''rom the mouths of these bays, the main body r)f the lake to
the northward is hvss than a mile wide, f(u' five miles, when it gradu-
ally expands and is divided into two bays by a low narrow neek of
land connecting a rocky peninsula with the mainland. The north-
west bay is some three miles deep, and its lu-ad is only a few miles
from one of the southern bays of Lake Mistassini. In winter the
route between these lakes passes U{i this bay, and thence a. short dis-
tance over low hills to the valley of a small stream falling into tho
^listassini. The north-east bay is deep, and narrows to less than a
quarter of a mile at its head, wliere the discharge flows out towards
Lake Mistassini. Towards its southern end, the lake ai)pears to be
shallow, but in the narrows and northern part it is (|uitv' deep. There
are only four or five small islands on the lake. Its water is clear
and cool, and it abounds with fine whitefish and lake trout. In its pi^i,,
northern part the inhabitants of the Hudson's Hay Company post
at Mistassini make their fall fishery, and take in nets an immense
(luimtity of lake trout averaging six pounds in weight. On the north-
east side of the lake, tho country rises gradually some 300 feet to the
height-of-land, which skirts that side of the lake at a distance of from
three to six miles. In only a few places along this shore is the bare
rock seen, tho soil being made up of thick layers of fine glacial drift,
composed largely of debris of the limestone found to tho northward
about Lake Mistassini. This forms an excellent soil, as can be Judged Excellent soil,
from the number of large trees upo i it. Tho south-west side of the
lake is more rocky. At its southern end and along the narrows, the
rocky shores rise abruptly from fifty to 200 feet above the surface of
the lake. The shores of the north-west bay are low, but the western
side of the north-east bay is high and rocky, rising near the outlet 350
feet above the water.

Much of tho country surrounding the lake has been burnt. What Timlier.
remains of the old forest, as already stated, is of good size, and trees

06 I,

LAHnADOH PKMNSULA.

eighteen inches in diameter tliree feet from the ground, are not uncom-
mon, while the goner.d a^-- rage is hirgor than tliat of any district seen
northward of Lake Ashouapmouchouan. IJiaek spruce, white sjiruce,
balsam fir, larch, iianksian pine, white birch and aspen grow abund-
antly on the unburnt tracts along the eastern shore, and cedar of
medium size is tuund close to the edg of the water.

Lake Wahwanichi dischaiges into the south-west bay of Lake Mis-
tassini by a small stream four miles long. In this distance there are
a number of small lake-expansions connected by rapids and falls, to
pass which three short portages are necessary, the total fall being
sixty feet. The height-of-land passes close to the river on the .south
side, while the country is slightly broken to the north.

I'lai'ly imri
tivi'i*.

§ : !

Suivey.

PuHitiun.

Size.

Lake MiK/dssun.

Lake Mistassiiii is the largest and by far the best known lake of the
Labrador Peninsula. Tales regartling its great size were told by the
Indians of the lower St. Lawrence to the earlier pioneers, and the lirst
explorers of the region brought back exaggerated accounts of the
extent of the hike, derived from like .sources of information and not
from actual observation, t^uite I'ecently similar stories excited the
imiginations of various \vl'iters in the public press, and numerous
speculati(ms were indulged in regarding the magnitude of this myster-
ious body of water, which, by some, was held to be even greater than
Lake Superior. When at last a survey of the lake was completed in
18S5, there remained sonie persons who refu.sed to give up their belief
in its supposed great size, asserting that only a bay had been survi>yed
and that the lake stretched out indefinitely beyond, far to the north-
ward, notwithstanding the fact that brandies of the Kast Main River
rise a short distance !i;!rthward, and that otlici branches extend to the
eastward, over two hundred miles beyond the northern end of the
lake.

Although Lake Mistassini does not reach the size ascribed to it by
many, it is still a very large body of water, situated between latitude
no and f)! 24' N., and longitude 72 45' and 74' 20' W. A
straight line drawn from the south to the north end of the lake would
run about N. 30° E. The lake itself has a perceptible curve between
its ends, with the concavity of the curve towards the .south-east ; the
shore-line nearly coincides with an arc of a circle, so that the general
trend of the lake changes gradually from north in the southern portion
until at the northern end its direction is north-east. The greatest
length in a straight line, between the heads of the north-east and

I

•]

LAKE MISTASSIM.

67 L

w

t

south-west bays, is roughly one hundred miles ; the average breadth
of the main body is twelve miles, and it varies but little from that
measurement. A low, narrow, rocky point extends out from both the
north and south ends of the lake, dividing each end into two deep
bays. Between the points, and formed by the same rocky ridge, there
is a continuous chain of low islands ; these overlap one another, so that
only in a few places along the shore is a view of the opposite side
obtained. A slight lowrring of the present level of the lake
would connect these islands and points, so as to form two lakes, as the
water between the islands is quite shallow, in marked contrast to the iHlands.
depth between the islands and the n^aiiiland on either side. There
the depth averages over 300 feet, but in some places exceeds 400 feet.
The water is very cliir, and the temperature of the main body rarely
if ever rises above 50 Fahr.

The south-east bay is called Abatagush. It is three miles wide at liays.
its moutii, and from there gradually lessens for six miles to the Big
Narrows (Chabatok), where, for about a <iuarter of a mile, it is not
over two hundred yards wide. Again expanding td an average breadth
of nearly two miles, it extends to the south lor eleven miles, where it
is subdivided into two arms by a long narrow point.

The eastern arm, called Cabistachuan Bay, averages a mile and a
half in breadth, and runs .south nine miles, and then east four miles
to its head, where a portage leads to the Little Perch River. This
stieani drains a number of small lakes to the south-east, and is used
as a route to the head-waters of the Chief River, the main branch of
the Chamouchouan.

The western arm is larger :\nd more irregular than Cabistachuan
Ba}'. From the end of the dividing point, where it is two miles
wide, it gradually narrows for four miles, so that along the last half-
mile it is only about fifty yards across ; this part is called the Little
Narrows. Passing the narrows, the bay expands to one mile in width
and runs a few degrees east of south for five miles ; then it widens
out to four miles, and continues on the same course eight miles further,
to the discharge of LakeWahwanichi that comes in at its head. Where
the bay widens, there is on the western side, an arm called Sassikan
Bay, that runs due north four miles, and is nearly parallel to the main
body. Four miles from tlie head of the bay, a narrow point stretches
out three miles from the eastern shore, and almost meets a shorter point
from the western side, leaving only a narrow channel between. This
point is called Eliquabit, and on it was situated the old King's Post
of the North-west Company. Th? Hudson's Bay Company's post is Trading postB,
flstablished on the east side, just inside the Little Narrows.
54

68 L

LAURADOll PEMNHULA.

Fislii'rip.t.

Cliaractcr of
sliorc-line.

Siirrcmndiiif;
couiitiy.

The south-west or Poonichuaii J5ay, for a ilistance of twenty miles
from its entrance, has an averajje brearltii of tive miles, and its shore-line
is broken by a number of smaller bays, from one of which a portage
of two miles leads to Abatagush 15ay, reaching it near the Hudson's
Bay post. This portage is niu'-h used, as it obviates a canoe trip of
nearly fifty miles, around the point to the spawning grounds in Pooni-
chuan JJay, where immense quantities of whitelish are taken in nets
during the spawning season in October. After the first twenty miles
the bay narrows to less than half a mile, and extends in a south-
west course for over fourteen miles, a small river coming in at its
head.

The bays at the north end of the lake are not so deej) as the southern
ones. The distance from tiie end of the point to the head of the
north-west bay is fifteen miles, and its average breadth is nitiier more
than four miles. The north-ea.st bay extends nineteen miles from
the same point to its head, and has an average breadth of four miles.

Besides the great bays already desciibed, many smaller ones indent
the shores of the lake, especially on its west side, where the coast-line
is very irregular and many islands occur.

As a rule, the shore is rocky, with only a steep, narrow bouldery
beach, and moderately deep water close in. On the east side, th(! shores
and islands are formed of limestone, that dips at a low angle towards
the south-east ; consecjuently, beaches facing in that direction
shelve gradually into deep water, while tho.se with a western aspect
are generally cut oft" perpendicularly with deep water c'-)se up to them.
On the west side of the laice, the limestone is only found on the outer
islands and points, where similar conditions exist, but the greater part
of the shore-line here, being formed of gneiss, perpendicular faces are
wanting and the slope is more even in all directions. In some places
no rock is seen, and then the beaches of tiie islands and mainland are
formed of boulders, often piled up by ice in low ridges close to high-
Wrtter mark.

As befoie stated, the escarpment forming the height-of-land passes
close to the southern (!nd of the lake, and continues on in a north-easterly
direction at an angle to the trend of the lake, so that it is soon a consider-
able distance to the eastward as it is followed towards the north. The
general height of the escarpment appears to be about .100 feet al)ove the
lake, but some points may rise to .")00 feet. The only other elevation
of any conse(|uence, is a range of hills that lies about five miles bey<»nd
the north end of the lake, and from there nppears to trend away to the
westwaid. it-s highest point is not over 500 feet. There is also a

1

LAKE MISTASSIN'I.

69 L

limestone ridge running along the eastern side of the lake which seldom
or never rises 100 feet above the water, but often presents a perpen-
dicular face. This ridge separates J<ake Mistassini from Lake Mis-
tassinis. On the west side, the country is generally low and swampy,
being broken by rounded gneiss hills, never over 100 feet high, and
generally less than 50 feet.

The principal rivers Howing into I^ake Mistassini, are named the Rivers.
Temiscamie, Papask wasati, Tokwaoioand VVabassinon. TheTemiscamie
River is the discharge of Lake Mistassinis, and is the largest stream
entering the lake, coming in on the e.ist side, aljout twenty miles from
the north end. It is only two miles long, and as the difference of level
between the two lakes is 55 feet, the river descends in a continuous
heavy rapid, through a sliallow limestone gorge. The Papaskwasati
and Tokwaoio rivers are large streams flowing into the heads of the
noi'th-west and north-east bays respectively. Both come from the
northward, and rise near tlie head-waters of the Ticliagami Branch of
tlie Efust Main River. A canoe route to Nichicun is said to pass up
the Tokwaoio River, and to cross from its head to the East Main River.
The Wabissinon River is a smaller streim flowing into the lake on the
west side, nearly opposite the mouth of the Teniiticamie River, and drain-
ing an area of country to the north-west of the lake. Besides these larger
rivers, there are numerous smaller streams that rise in lakes and swamps
in the surrounding region ; notably the discharge of Lake Wahwanichi
and the Little Perch River, both flowing into the southern part of
Abatagush Bay.

The soil of the region about Lake ^listassini is made up of boulder- Of<ocl Soil
cliiy, derived from the disintegration of the neighlx>uring rocks. Large
Tjaurcntian and Huronian boulders, with blocks of limestone, are
scattered about in profusion. The finer material of the soil is sandy
clay, with a large percentage of finely divided and intimately mixed
limestone, especially about the sout.hern and eastern shores of the lake.

The climate of the country surrounding ^listassini is such as to pre- Climate,
elude the po.ssibility of its ever becoming an important agricultural
region, chiefly owing to the prevalence of summer frosts. At the
Hutison's Bay post, a most favourable locality, the average temperature
of the three warmest months is about 60 Fahr., but, unfortunately,
no summer passes without .severe frosts in June and August, which
cause great damage to the potato crop grown there.

.Snow covers the ground from the middle of October, and remains
until the middle of May, all the smaller lakes being fro/en over during
that period. Owing to its great depth and consequent slow change of

ro L

LAIIRAOOR PENINSULA.

temperature, the main body of the lake rarely freezes over 1-efore the
20th of Decf mber, and it bn'iiks up a couple of weeks later than the
smaller lakes and bays in the sprin- (?rom the same cause, the gen-
eral summer temperature of the region surrounding the main lake is
lower than that about the post, and even in the month of July, in the
swampy lands adjacent, the soil is frozen solid within a few inches of
the surface.

'Il-nber. Covering the higher ground towards the southern end, white

and black spruce, balsam fir, liaiiksian pine, aspen and white
birch are found, some trees ha\ ing a diameter of eighteen inches three
feet from the ground. Similar trees of smaller size are found along
tho limestone ridge on the eastern side. On the western side, where
the Archican rocks occur, the soil is scant and sandy, ami, in conse-
quence, the trees are nmcli smaller. They are chieily black spruce
and larch, along with small Banksian i»ine, balsani ilr, aspen and
white birch. Black spruce and larch alone grow in the swamps,
and also form a fringe along the shores and islands of the main body
of the lake, where the sweep of cold winds probably inteif es with the
growth of other species. Cedar reaches its northern liml*^ at tlu, )U*.h-
ern end of the lake, where only fi few stuntec' trt.-h ire seen.

Figh. Fish of various kinds and of large size are caught in ab'Mjdance

tVu'oughout Lake Mistassini. Lake trout ar.> taken weighing from
ft)ur to forty pounds, brook trout up to six pounds, whitelish to four-
teen pounds, and pike, )iit'kerel, red and white suckers ami chub of
correspondingly large size. These tisheries would jn'ove of great value
if access to them could be had by railway, as the supply is practically
unlimited here and in the adjoining large lakes.

Aiiiiiiiils. Caribou and moose, onci^ plentiful in the region, are almost extinct,

and can no longer be nslied on as a sourct; of food by the Indiatis, who
now live wholly on tish, rabbits and t\w fur bearing animals. ( )f these
beaver and bear are the most plentiful, the forn\er being still found in
considerable lumbers in the small lakes and streams tributary to the
lake. Ulac . bears are common on the extensive areas of burnt land
on all sid-'s of the lake, but most especially to the south west. Besides
these, marten, mink, tisher, otter, lynx and foxes are taken in large
numbers, the fur of the marten being particularly dark and' valuable.

Iiitliuiis. There are about twenty-five families of Indians belonging to this

post. Very few are now pure-blooded, being mixed with the whites,
who have traded in the region for the jiast one hundretl and fifty ^cars.
In tin- spring all the able-bodied men are employed in the large bark
canoes that descend the liupert River to James Hay with the hunt

\

'•]

LAKE MISTASSINI.

'1 L

I

4

of the previous winter, returning with the outfit of goods and provi-
sions for the coming year. The canoes depart about June 20th, and
return about August 20tli. As nearly all the women and children
accompany the largo canoes in their own small craft, very few persons
remain about the post during the summer, and as a consequence parties
from the outside find it impossible to obtain guides o'' other assistance
there during 1 1 at period. Those who remain live altogether on the
fish caught from day to day, as oidy sutlicient provisions are brought
in to supply the post during the winter and to provide for the men
engaged transporting the furs to Rupert House. From these causes,
the ( xploratioti of central Labrador is attended with many ditliculties,
especially as the country cannot be depended on to sup[.ly any food
during the sunnner months, anrl consequently provisions to last the
entire season must be brought in from the const, up very rough and
rapid rivers at great cost and lo.ss of time.

r>ake Mistassinis, as before stated, lies to the eastward of Lake Mis- LakeMistaH-
tassini, from which it is separated by a ridge jf limestone varying '
from two to si.x miles in width.

The difference in level between the two lakes is tifty-five feet. The
smaller lake is about sixty miles long, extending from opposite the
north end of Mistassini to a place east of the Hig Narrows. In
its northern part, the h ke is about six miles wide and is free from
islands or bays, but south of the discharge it narrows con-
siderably and splits up into a nund)er of deep bays, while its surface is
covered bj' numerous low islands. These are formed from limestone
reefs running pinr-liei to the direction of the lake, and are most numer-
ous about the outlet and between there and the Temiscamie liiver
which Hows in on the east side some three miles south of the outli t.

The water of the lake between the rivers is brownish and not clear, fInIi.
in consequence of the impurities brought down by the river. In othei
parts the water is clear, deep and cool. Large fish, of the same species
as those taken in the great lake, are also abundant here.

The land on the west side of the lake is low, with rocky shores of
Hat limestone. The country to the eastward is higher, and consists
of a plateau foimed <»f limestone, which separates the lake from the
Temiscamie River. The face of the plateau fronting the lake is steep,
and has in places a perpendicular cliiF of limestone rising from 50
to 200 feet above the water.

The hills mentioned as bounding the north end of Lake Mistassini,
also extern, part way across the norti\ end of this lake, with an interval
of low ground to the north-east, > ice a portage of less than two miles

72 L

l.AIIIiADOR PKNIXSL'LA.

croaaea to the Teiniscamie Hiver. This liver is tiie only important one
falling into the lake. It takes its rise to the north-wistwaicl along the
northern side of the watershed separating it from the head-waters of
the Mistassini and Peribonka rivers flowing into Lake St. John. It
passes through I^ike Temiscamie, a largo body of water near the height-
of-land, and then flows south-west twent}' miles, to within a short dis-
tance of the head of Lake Mistassinis, when, instead of entering the
lake, it keeps to the eastward of the limestone lidge already in I'tioned
and flows within a short ilistance of and parallel to the lake for nearly
twenty-five miles, where it falls into a sraiill bay on the east side.

The climate, soil and timber of the country surrounding Lake Mis-
tassinis are similar to those of the eastern side of Liikc -Mistassini.

4-

Ru|iei't KiviT

Ciintrnctc'tl
Liikf Mist;i

La/c<' Mixfasnini to the Enut Mnin Itivir.

From l^ake Mistassini, the route to the East Main Hiver first
descends a branch of the Hupert liiver for fifty miles almost due
north, and then leaving that sti'eam passes north-westward, through
a number of small lakes, to and down a small tributary into the Hast
Main River. The distance between the two rivers is fifty-eight miles.

The Rupert River forms the discharge of Lake Mistassini. It
leaves the lake on its west side, thirty-five miles from the head of the
Js'orth-west bay. The outlet is at the bottom of a small bay, where
the river fiows out, over a ledge of gneiss, forming a small rapid.
Here the stream is not over one hundred yards wide, and is henuned
in by rocky banks. This contracted discharge is insufficient to carry
ofl' the watei's j)Oured into the lake by the numerous large rivers
previously mentioned, and as a conseijuence the level of the lake rises
d\)ring the spring, and reaches its highest level about July IHth, after
which the water slowly subsides. The period of lowest level is about
the middle of ^lay, or just before the spring freshets, so that the lake
rises much more rapidly than it falls, making the volume of water in the
Rupert verj' constant in comparison with that of other rivers flowing
into Hudson Bay. On leaving the lake, the river flows almost on a
level with the surface of the surrounding country, widening out into
deep bays and separated into numerous channels by low rocky islands.
For the first eight miles of its course, it fiows south-west, or roughly
parallel to the shore of the lake^ ".nd so clcse to it that at the end of
the distance a portage of less than 200 3'ards leads from a bay in the
lake to the river. Below this portage for two miles, the river continues
between rocky banks, with a swift current, and then Hnws out into
a lake-expansion extending westward more than ten miles, and vary-
ing from one to three miles in breadth.

t

■1

LAKE MISTASSIM TO EAST MAIN ItlVEK.

73 L

4

The river ilows out of this lake ))y two main and several smaller
channels separated by large rocky islands. The two main channels
are soon joined by the smaller ones, and then form large rivers, sepa-
rated from each other by a very large island, and not uniting again
for over 100 miles.

The western channel is followed by the Hudson's Bay Company's TwoclmnnelH.
iirigade in gtiing down to Rupert House. This channel is descended
in a north-west direction about fifty miles, where the route passes from
the western end of an expansion called Lake Miskittenau into a chain
of lakes on the Marten liiver, a small branch which joins the Rupert
over 100 miles below.

The eastern chaniiel fos'ms part of the route to the East ^lain River.
It runs comparativ, ly > ,raight for fifty miles, having a general course
a few degrees east jf north, and leaving the above-mentioned lake-
expansion at its eastern end, by a number of channels on its northern
side. For five miles it is obstructed by innumerable small rocky islands, InIuikI!* in
and is so deeply indented with ba3'.s, that were it not for the strong "'"^ " *

current the stream could not l)e easily followed. Near the end of this
distance the river narrows to a general width of less than a <|uarter of a
mile and passes over two small rapids between islands. For the next
five miles the average breadth of the river is 300 yards, and it Hows
with a stead}', swift current to a small rapid, below which the breadth
inci'eases to neai-ly half a mile, and continues so for two miles to a
heavy rapid, that falls twenty feet in 200 yards.

The portage past this ra]>id is a (juarter of a mile long, and runs on
the summit of a ridge of boulder-day. The crest of the hill is about
150 feet above the water, and is so narrow and sharp that there is only
room for the i)ortage-road on it.

Below tl'i; portage the river is about 300 yards wide for five miles
and a half, with a strong eurrent and numerous islands. It then ex"
pands 10 an average width of half a mile, anil is (juite deep, with a
sluggish current. These conditions continue for seven miles, when,
turning sharply westward, the channel contracts and the stream
falls twenty-five feet, over a chute, into the head of Kachika-
kakuaiats or Pinched-neck Lake. This lake extends north-westward l'iin.ln<l-neck
ten miles, and ia its widest part is alwut two milco and a half across. *■''
The river tlows out on the west side five miles from the inlet, and
thence runs in a westerly direction to join the other main branch,
some fifty miles farther down.

From Lak Mistassini to the first portage, the country surrounding
the river is very flat, with no hills over luO feet high. The river ap-
l)ears to have no channel proper, merely filling the depressions and fol-

74 L

LAHHAKOH iENIVSU:-.

Tinilier.

V jj.ir.'ntov ,ii k wng tho uonenil Hloi)e ot the eoutitrv. The islands, shores, and a
Ku!">'' H:v<i. 'Jfi'eater part ot thii lii>;h hind are rocky, llu' depressions where tliey
,irf not occupied by swamps, appear to ho liMed witli hrol'en rock and
boi.i . rs, while the finer material of the drift has to > i;ieat (extent
been carried away, not enoujih reinaiiiiiii; in many jiiiues to fill the
interstices between the heaped-uji boulders. The boulders and broken
rock are al.so profusely scattered over the rocky hills and in the
river-bed. What soil remains is poor, thin and sandy, supportinjL;
only a scant stunted forest growth of black spruce, larch, aspen, and
white birch. These trees never exceed forty feet in height, or ten
inches in diameter. The underbrush in tin; low-lying jic tions is
"laurel" (Xit/mid (jlitnctt) i\.\v\ I,abrador tea (Liilunt /n/i/'n/in ,) wliilo
the higher grcjund is covered with white; reindeer moss. The growth
of trees in this region is exceedingly slow, as may be seen from the
length of time rei|uired to cover areas iiurnt over years ago, and where
now only a scattered grt)wth of black spruce and J'anksiaii pine is
springing up.

Below the first portage, the river tlows in a vallc^y cut transv( rsi-ly
through -I'veral ridges that appear to run east -north-east and west-
south-west. These liills, as the river is descended, risi; gradually from
100 feet to 100 feet in the neighbourhood of Pinclied-neck Lake,
where they occupy both sides of the lake. Along this lower part of
the river more than half the country has been burnt over, thus remov-
ing all the trees and vegetable soil, and leaxing only the bare rock and
scattered boulders, giving to the region a very barren, desolate appear-
ance.

Portapt-r-niti- The portage-route between the Kupert and East Main rivers leaves

I'CU p

Hiinit
country

hiipt'i't'and Pinched-neck I^ake at its western end, and there passes, two miles up a

Must Miiiii
liviTs.

small stream througli four small lakes (1, 2, 3, 4) connected by short
portages. Then a portage of 200 yards leads to lake No. 5. This is
one mile long, and is connected by a portage of 500 yards with a
larger lake No. 6, which drains into another small branch of the Ru-
pert. This lake is full of small islands end has numentus little bays.
It is followed three miles ".;id a half northward to its discharge, where
a great mass of boulders, 200 feet wide, separates it from lal.3 No. 7.
The outlet of this last hike is close to the inlet, and is said to flow
westward through a chain oi: small lakes to the Rupert River.

Passing northward for a v\\". and a h.iif, the route then turns west-
ward for one mile, into a bay, and then northward again three-quarters
of a mile, to a portage of 800 yanl.-- which leads to lake No. 9, which
is about a mile long and three-tpiarters of a mile wide. It crosse:^ this
lake to another portage of 800 yards through a swamp, ending in a

LAKE MI8TA8.SINI TO KAST MAIN HIVEIl.

(J) I.

slightly liirf,'er lake, No. 10, whic-li is followed N. N.K. oiio mill- and a
Huartor to its liead, when) a portagt! <»f 40U ynrdf passes over a houlder-
ridgo 200 feet hi;,di, and ends in a broud shallow stream. Another
liranch of the Huin-rt Kiver, which is one mile ami a half to th" .ii.st-
ward, flows out of a large lake, No. 1 1. The western end of thi^ lake
is crossed, and a short portage made i ' ig .• mall stream flowing into
it. This stream is followtul northwnrd a )ot! wo miles and then turns
dir»'ctly west for another two iiiiles, lere short portages, with a

pond between, lead to lake No. I'i 'I |. lake is followed nttrth-west
for two mile.s, when a j)ortage of :.uO >- .-j is made tt> lake No. 1.'?, at
th', head < f the Kawaehagami or t.'leaiv atti River, a small branch of
the East .Main Kiver. l-'oliowi' his-- lake two miles to its outlet, a
portage of half a nule ends at the .-^in of the eastern bay of Clearwater
Lake.

This lake is roughly triangular in shape, having east, west, and north ciiarwatc
bays, with minor ones. Its water is brownish, clear, and moderately '''
deep. Islanils aie numerous especially at the end of the north bay,
whore the shore-line is rocky and irregular. From east to west the
lake measures about seven miles, and about three miles and a half from
noith to south. Two small lakes with narrows between, lead from the
northeast corner of the north bay, to a long lake lying to the westward,
about four miles from Clearwater Lake. Thi' outlet is on th(> east side
of the north bay. It is very small and narrow, and as it turns oil' at
right-angles to the direction of the bay, cannot be seen until entered.

Leaving the lake by the outlet, the river Hows directly east for two
miles and a half ; then it bends sharply to the north-west, around
a long I'arrow point and enters a small lake. Following this lake
northward for two miles, a short portage is made past a small rapid at
its di.scharge, after which the course is west, for two miles and a half,
through a small lake expansion to anotlier short portage past a fall of
eight feet.

The river thence Hows northward in a shallow, sandy channel for four
nules to another small lake, a mile and a half k ng, with a rapid at it.s
outlet. The riv;jr, now alwut twenty yards wide, Hows with a sluggish
current in a very crooked channel through an extensive swamp, until
it em[)tie,-; into Tide Lake on the East Main liiver. The distance
between the last two lakes in a straight line is five miles, while by the
river it is considerably more than double that ; the general course is
W. N. W.

From Pinched-neck Lake to Clearwater Lake, the country passed Ctiunutir of
tliiough by the portage-route is broken by roughly parallel ridges of p,',rtum..rou"/

rr. L

I.AIIRADOR FENINSl'LA.

rocky liills. Tliese hilln rise from :200 to SOO feet (il)ove the surround-
iiig wiiti'r level, ami iippoiir in run iioiirly iiortii-oast luid soiitli-wost.
Tlie hills of each iliiiiii are usually coiiiiectcd wilii one anotiicr by
sharp rid]L;es of coarse boulderclay. These ridges are hi;{hest and
thickt'st on the south-west side of the hills, where their material seems
to have lieeu accumulated in the lea of the roeky obstructions to the
ice duiin;; the glacial period. Like the sharp ridge descrilwd at the
first portage on the l{upert River, these ridges are largely composed
of boulders and semi-» -gular blocks of gneis.^ with very little finer
material, and have the same characteristic narrow crests, sloping on
either side.

lietween the ridges the lower ground is often .swampy and covered
with a network df small lakes. From a rocky hill, 2r)0feit liiu'li, at the
portage between lakes \o. 1(1 and No. 1 1, over thirty of these small
lakes were counted, filling the valleys on all sides,

Kuiist fins. The greater part of the region is destitute of forest trees, these having

been remoxed by frecpicnt extensive fires, The bare rocks of the hills
are thickly strewn with boulderri, often '/f great size, while the valleys
are fdled with the same, often to a depth of inany feet, and without
sulHcient sand or clay to conceal the space between them. Usually a
thin covering of vegetable mould is f(jund on the heaps of boulders.
In a few places on the lakes, sandy shores are seen, but the greater
part of the shores and islands are formed of solid rock or of heaped up
boulders.

tSiimll tivts. The unburnt forest is made up of small trees never more than thirty
feet high nor exceeding ten inches in diameter. J^lack spruce is the
most common, and on the lower ground grows thickly together, while
on the hillsides it is only found in open glades. Larch occurs in the
swamps, and there grows to a larger size than any of the other trees.
In abundance, Banksian pine ranks next to the black spruce, but is
generally small. A few small trees of white birch are seen in clumps
on the higher ground surrounding the lakes, and are accompanied by
an occasional clump of struggling aspen never over four inches in
diameter.

Hijfli rldjjcs. From the top of a hill rising SoO feet on the north-west side of
Clearwater Lake, an uninterrupted view of the surrounding country
was obtained. To the south waul, the high hills of the ridges already
passed are seen extending north-east and south-west. To the eastward,
they appear to have about the same oltitude as those seen along the
route, but to the westward they are considerably higher, and .some of
them, ten or fifteen miles to the south-west of the lake, must rise from
500 to 800 feet above the general level. Their tops are bare, and large

1

•1

BAHT MAIN KIVKK.

r7 L

patches of snow wore observed on their nortliern sides ou July 1 Uli.
Northward, tho country is not so hrokoii, ami none of tlio ridges
rise above 300 feet, while the vivlleys are broader, with more swampy
land and fewer lakes. Farther away in this direction, there is
another range of higher hills exlending eastand-west beyond the
Kast Main lliver.

The country surrounding the discharge of Clearwater Lake is attirst Flat loimtiy.
rolling, but after passing the small lakes it becomes ilat, and the river
winds tlnough an extensive swamp, with only a few isolated rocky hills
rising from it. The swampy lands aie thickly covered with small
blaek spruce, larch and Hanksian pine, the trees increasing in si/.e as
the Kast Main liiver is aiiproachet!. Houldors are less numerous, and
there is a considerable amount of fine yellow sand arranged by the
rivor in small terraces along its banks and aljout the small lakes.

On an island in Clearwater Lake the soil was found to be frozen
solid, at a depth varying from si.^c to nine inyhes below the surface.

Eftrit Main Riri'v.

The Hudson's P>ay post at the mouth of the East Main River, on iv.Hitidii nf
the east shore of James Hay, has ' een determined by W. ( >gilvie, ''"' '"""'''•
D.L.S., in 1890, to bo in latitude 52 U' 45" N. and longitude 78
29' 15" W.

The river, at its mouth, is a mile and a half wide, but is obstructed
by a number of sand and shingle shoals, bare at low water, with shal-
low channels between them. The river-banks are low and sandy. As
the river is ascended, the sand gives place to clay, cut in places by the
river into steep faces. The Hudson's Bay Company's post is situated HiKlwrn'sHay
on the south side, three miles from the nicmth, where the banks are '"''""•^'
about fifteen feet high. Tins river opposite the post is a little under a
mile wide. Three large islands of clay occupy the southern side of the
river for two miles and a half above the post, with a narrow, sha'low
channel between them and the mainland on that side. Opposite the
head of the upper island a small river, called Fishing River, falls into
the main stream from the north-east. Tide-water extends seventeen Head of tide,
miles up the river, and for this distance the course is about due ist.
The banks are low, formed of stiff blue clay, and much of the land on
either side is low and swt'inpy. The river gradually narrows from a
width of threeqnnrters of a mile, above the islands, to about a quarter
of a mile at the head of tide, where a small stream, called Coklwater
River, comes in from the south. The current, from the mouth to the

7fi r-

LAHRAnOR PRNIVMUt.A.

heftfl of ti(K>, viirioN f i-oni two to four niiU's jwr hour. Alon^ tlio rivor-
lK)ttom thcro is an iilmixliuit j^rowtli of nuulimn-Mi/cd white iiiul iiliick
.s|)i'iii'f, liiilsain 111', HH|MMi iiiid hiilsaiii |)(>|ihir.

Immwliiiti'iy abovo the liciul of lich', tin- cliaracttT of the riv

or

clnviif{»'H to a .MiureMwion of ni|ii(ls, ami for the next six milen the Imiiks
l)eeome iiii'reasiri;,'iy iiiylier, wil li .strep cut faees, .sliowin^' '-'I'lV over-
hiiu i)y sand, or souietinii's eoar.se l)oulder-<'lay, with an occasional
ox|>osuro of rock coniin;,' U|) from l)ei)eath. 'I'ho i)ankn liero rise from
fifty tO(»no hunched feet. Tiio valley he»'omeH >,'raduaily narrowor and
the rapids lieavier, until in the upper mile and a half the river is oidy
alxiut loo yards wide and falls seventy live feet through a shallow,
llii»il (ini^fc. rocky H'li'S^t culled HaHil Oorfje. The j^eneral courHo of this stretch is
N. 7") ]•], Tnnnediately ainive these rapids the river ajjain chan;,'es to
IV <|ui(!t-tlowing stream about (100 yards wide, with low iianks and a
Hat country on either side.

Two miles above the head of the j?or>{0 and twentydive ndles from
its mouth, the river divides into two brancho, which apjioar to Ik*
nearly e<|ual in si/.o, onc! comitif^ from the north-east, the othi'i" from
the east, the latter bein;; the one surveyed. From tin* Indians at
East Main post, it wvs learned that the north-east branch is called the
Straight HivcT Opinaca or Strai,.'!)t River, and that its volume is about two-thirds
that of th(! other branch. It is much the easier rivcT to ascend, being
free from long rap (Is and portages, and takes its rise in a nund)er of
large lakes between the head-waters of the Kast Branch and those of
the Iiig Uiver.

Abo\e the forks the course of the east branch is due east for seven
miles, while its width varies from 000 to 800 yards; the current is
sluggish and the banks low, but they rise gradually as the stream is
ascended, so that in the last mile and a half of this course, they are
from fifty to seventy-tive feet above it, and present cut faces of strati-
fied sands and clays_ or of boulder-clay. The river here narrows to a
width of 300 yards and becomes rapid.

Tiilking Kails. At the end of this course there is a .sharp Imnd to the south, and a quar-
ter of a mile above the bend is a chute of twenty feet called Talking
]*'alls, with strong rapids below and above it. From this chute, the
river, with several minor bends, has a general south-east course for the
next six miles, being almost a continuous rapid, with about 1"J0 feet
fall, including a chute of sixty-five feet, called the Island Falls, at the
upper end. At this chute the river is divided into a number of nar-
row channels by several small rocky i.slands. The banks ahmg this
portion of the river are not high, and the country appears to rise with

RAMT MAIN HIVKK.

7U b

tlio riv«'r. Tlioio in ii portnfi[o nf 400 yunlK on tlic Mdutli nidi' punt tlm
clititi-, Hiiil two mill's iiImivo it ii Hiiiiill river, i-iiliud tlio MiMkiiiiatiut,
CDinnH ill friiiii tli« Houtli.

Above tlin chute, the river UKivin expnndH to iiii average width of 000
yiirds, and flows from N. lio I'!., liliiioHt on ti level with the surrounding
country, for ten miles hotwei-n low bunks of cliiy cupped with s.iiid.
The tiinher contiiiueH the siuiie as before, but is somewhiit sniidler.
The river now imrrows to 2'»0 yardrt, and continues with iniiall rapids
iiurthward for a mile, between roi ky hilU, then turning east, it
widiMis slightly iiiid is less rapid for another mile, to the foot of a
narrow rocky channel called Clouston (iorge. This gorge for a mile ciniiHtiin
and a half t'rom its nioulli is |)erfectly straight, and is never more than ""■•*''■
lUO t'ctit wide, narrowing in one place to thirty feet, with rocky sides
that rise ivlino^t perpendicularly 100 or 200 feet above the riv»'r, which
rushes through it in one great rapid, falling in the interval 105 feet.

Above this the course changes to S. 70 W., and the river bijcoining
slightly wider, mounts in the next three-(|uarterH of a mile twenty
feet to the foot of a rocky island I'-'OO yards long with a narrow chan-
nel on either side. Through those channels the riv(!r falls over 100
feet in a succession of chutes. l'\)r three-quarters of a mile aliove the
head of the island, there are a number of biiiuII islands with rapidii
between them.

To pass these obstructions it is necessary to portage canoes and jj^j i^rtftge.
outlit three-(|uartei s of a mile through a deep swamj), with only one
spot sutliciently dry to allow the loads to be laid down. The portage
liegins iiiiiiiediately below the gorge on tlio south side, and ends in
a small bay near the head of the islands.

The river is now found flowing nearly at the level of the surround-
ing country, with a sluggish current between low banks tliat become
more and more sandy. The general course of the r."\t stretch is N. GO
E., and the distance twenty-two miles, the Krendth ol'i he river varying
from a quarter to three-ciuarters of a mil;, witl; an avera; r of about
half a mile. The limit of balsam poplar is reached near th<: iipper end Limit of
of this course, a fact due probably to i'ie ibsence of low I , j banks. '"'''*,"'"
along the river above. The other trtc-; iire .smalliT, and n Kite spruce
beyond this becomes scarce. White bircii is now a common tree, and
Itanksian pine is found wherever second-growth timber occurs on sandy
soil.

Continuing on the same course for three miles and a half, the river
again becomes rapid, and Hows in a valley which at first is about 200
yards wide, with scarped sandy banks which rise about 150 feet above

80 L

LAIIK.VUOR I'E.MNSULA.

Oortff,

Clmraclri' of

till' lower

rivci'.

Mui'illl- tiT-

raci'.".

it. Soon the ohiinnol narrows to less than 100 y. -Is. nntl the sandy
Congloiiiciatc l)ariks j^ivo place lo rock as it enters Conglomerate (iorge. In the
uppi^r half of the distance the fall is sery steep, the river passing with
a succession of chutes, in small channels lietween a lunniier of small,
narrf)w, rf>cky islands. The total fall her(^ is over 100 feet, Including
three chutes of twenty, ten and tiiirty feel respectively.

l*Vom the head of this rapid, the river bends to the south for a mile,
then S. .'10^ W. one mile, and again south another mile to a chute of
ten feet. At this last fall, the chanuter of the river and surrounding
country changes. From its mouth to this point the rivoi' has llowcd
in a shallow valle}', nearly on the surface of a number of hroad ten-aces of
sti'atilied .sand and clay, arranged one above the other. Where it
descends from one level to the next, the river has cut a valley back
into the sands and clan's of the upper terrace until the underlying rock
has betMi reached, over which it falls in a succession of rapids and
chutes, often hemmed in by steep rocky walls.

The terraces are composed of marin- tieposits laid down during tiie
depression of the land at the clo-u; of the glacial period, when the
level of the western side of the liabrador Peninsula was over (JOO feet
lower thati at present. I'artiier up the river, marine deposits are want-
ing, and the surface material is formed of unstratilied, coarse bouldei'
clay. Owing to the ab.senco of terraces, there are no marked drops
from W'vel to level, l)ut ivitlier a more or less gradual slope of the whole
countr}', while th(! river, without even a shallow valley as in its lower
part. Hows almost al the level of the country and follows (ho geneiid
8lo])e, except, where diverted by rocky ridges that <ross its coui'se
ol)lic|uely in several jilaces. In the lower part the river is obstructed
only by islands at tlu^ various falls, and there are few rock-ex|iosures
elsewhere : whilt^ in the upper part rocky islands are everywhere
numerou.s, and long stretches of the shores are also formed of rock.

The surrounding country, in the lower part, is giMierally tiat and
often swampy, but then- is a marked al>senco of small lakes though
aboui, the upper part of the rii'er some are found in every valley
between the low, rounded, rocky hills that '•haracterize this region.
Tlu! .soil in th- hilly country is scant and jioor, being composed
wholly of boulder-clay, often with very little liner material. The
climate also appears to be more ligorous than it is nearer the sea-coast,
and the timber is much smaller, consisting of the following spe( ies
arranged in order of abunilance : — lilack spruce, I'.anksian pine, larch,
balsam fir, white birch and a few stunted aspens. The larch grows to the
laigeat size, a few trees being upwards of twehe inches in diameter
near the base ; the other species seldom or never have a diameter

Co\ititry snr-
roiiiuliii); till
loWIT livii-.

Tiiiilii

•]

EAST MAIN RIVEIl.

81 L

excecdiiis; nine inches, and in the upper part of the river are only
found growing tliitkly on tiie lower ground, nlxiut streams nr lakes,
with the hills only partly covered by small trees of black spruce and
Hanksiati pine. The white spruce does not grow beyond the limits
of tiie (Inposits of marine sanrls along the East ?Iain River.

Abovf tiie last-mentioned i-liute, the next course is about duo east, riiaracU-r of
includin', two short sharp bends to the south, in a distance of eight 1 '/'','" »
miles. .Vlong this course, the river flows in a shallow, rocky channel, «>«'iKt'-
about a quarter of a mile wide, throuyh an almost Hat region, broken
only by a few low, rounded hills. The descent is sharp, there being
five rapids and two chutes of six and eight feet, separated by short
intervals of swift current. At the upper rapid and chute, the river bend.'i
to the s(iiitht>ast, for another eight miles. I n this interval it is broken
into several channels by a number of large low islands, strung out along
the entire distance. The current in these channels is moderate, with
onlv one small rapid near the upper end. The Kausabiskau !{iver is
a small stream, that falls in on the south side near the foot of this rapid.

Further up, the river fur twenty-five miles, forms a long gentle curve,
bending lirst slightly north and then south of east, so that a line join-
ing the ends of the curve would run east-and-west Here, stretches
of <|uiet water connect live .short heavy rapids. Kocky islands aie
numerous and the shores are low and in places rocky, but more com-
monly swampy. To the south, there are hills running in ridges roughly
parallel to the course of the river. These culminate four miles up
this course, in Flat-topped Mountain, that rises nearly ")00 feet above
the water-level. The n st of the range rarely exceeds .'500 feet, and '2^)0
feet may be taken as iU mean height above the general level. Similar
ridges of rounded hilis are seen to the northward, but they do not
ajipear to be as high as those on the other side and they are more dis-
tant, leaving a wide margin of low swampy land between their bases and
the river. The trees on these hills have almost all been burnt recently, .Swunip-i.
leaving onlv a few patches of green wood. Where the rapids occur in
the rivei', the hills close in on either side.

Medium sized rivers fall into the main stream at the second, sixth \Vai,i.stan and
and tenth mile of this course. The first and third are called respec- A^MutaBo
tively, Wabistan and Akuatago, both coming from the southward ; the
second is called the Wabamisk, and comes from the northward. It is
much larger than the others, lieing about 200 feet wide, at its mouth,
with a slow current.

The main river above bends to the south-cast for eight miles, and then
to the east again for eight miles. The country and river have much
G

82

LAliltADOR PBMNSULA.

Tlif (Jri-at
licnd.

Hiiikcii

tMlllIltlV.

WliirliHKjl.

Ci)nntryii'jov<'
till- ( ircftt

till! same cliiiriitter lis the part last deseriljed ; the current Ijeing some-
what stronger, with throe small rapids. At the upper end of the last
course, there is a small stream, called the Clearwater Uiver, that comes
in on the north side, and Hows in a wide straight v^iUey from E. N.
E., a continuation of the valley in which the main river Hows below.
The Indians who hunt in this rogioif, say that it is only a half day's
journey from tht; mouth of this stream to a large lake on a branch of
the Straight Hiver.

Turning now sharply to the soutli-wi'st,' the main river, which has
had an averagt; breadth of over a (juarter of a mile, enters the
(ireat Dcnd, and contracts to about 100 yards, and for the next fifteen
miles is nothing but a succession of heavy rapids and chutes. Its
banks are high and rocky in most places as it breaks the range of
hills before mentioned on the south side. The surrounding country
is much rougher than any before seen, with rounded hills, from L'OO
to .'500 feet liigh, arranged in close parallel ridges. The lower .six
miles of th(! river are particularly rough, and as the j>er|)endicular
clitls on both sides render portaging impo.ssible in many places, it is
with dilliculty that this pai-t of l\n'. river is ])ass(!il with canoes. At
one place about three miles from tlu^ foot of th(^ rapiils, there is a
sharj) bend to the northward, and the water i-ushing down is dellec-
ted by a sharp point running out from the east side at the beiid,
which causes the greater volume of the water to enter a small l)ay,
where a groat whirlpool is formed. It is statcnl that many years ago
two large canoes belonging to the lluilson's liay t'ompany were di-awn
into this whirlpool and all on board drowned.

At the upper end of this sf)uth-\v(>st course, a small stream, called
IMisiatawagamisistic Kiver, comes in from the south-west, and it is
believed that there is a portage-route Iv it, past the I'upids below.

Turning now to H. 40 V]. for th>*"e miles, the river gradually widens,
and passing two small rapids, again bvocomes easily navigable. It
flows, with a sluggish cnrr{'nt, in a chann<'l aOO yards wide, and only
slightly below the level of the sur'-ounding low, flat, swampy I'ountry.
This continues for tifteen miU^s, the genei-al course btMng N, 60 E.
Two small rivers come in along this course from the north. At the
upper end there is ;>. fall of ten f<'et, above whicii tlu; riv<M", continuing
along the same course fur fourtwMi miles, has a similar sluggish cur-
rent, with the exception of one small rapid at, the head of two largo
islands. The surrounding country remaii^s low ar ' swampy, except
in the vicinity of the lapid, where a low range of hills passes close to the
river on the south side.

•]

EAST MAIN RIVER.

83 L

Abi»ve the two islaiulu, the river again turns to the east, and Hows
with a reinaritahly straight course for nineteen miles. The liills on
either side hero close in and narrow the valley, through wliich the
riv»^r runs at a uniform rate of about four miles per hour, in a shallow
channel averaging 400 yards in width. The hills, as a rule, do not
ri.se much alxive 200 feet from the water, and only an exceptional
one reaches 300 feet. Tliey are arranged in ridges nearly parallel to
the course of the river.

Along the upper three miles of this course, the channel narrows to Nnriow clmn-
ahout l.*)0 yanis, anil the current increases where a descent is made
through a nai-row cut in the hills. There is now a sharp bend to the
south and then to til"' south-west for a mile and a half, .'is t!ie river
cuts through a range of hills, with a fall of twenty-live feet, including
a chute of lifteen feet. At the bend, a small river comes in from the
north east.

The surface material covering the hills along the last two courses is Sml.
generally thin, and is in ])laces comj)osed largt^ly of lutulders, often of
large si/((, with the spaces lietween them only partly tilled with tiner
material.

The forest, for the most part, is made up of small second-growth ),\,r,.,,
black spruce, hanksian ])ine, larch, balsam tir and white birch, with a
few asjten poplar.

Above the bend, the rivei- again enters a.iother valley between par-
allel I'iilges. Tls I'ourscs arc: first, east (Ive miles, then X. (iO K. four
miles, and again «'ast eight miles. The average width is again about
•too yards, with a swift uniform current and only one small rapid. As
this portion is ascended, the country becomes rougher, and the hills rise; liiMi^rliii
with steep slojjes, from '-'00 to 100 feet abo\e the water. The great(>r '^■""""'A.
part of this region has been recently l)urnt, <>> ly patches of blackened
soil being left to partly <'over the rocky hills, while innumerable
boulders are seen scattered (n-ery where over the surface. A river about
three chains wide at its mouth comes in from the south at the end of
the first course.

Another sharp bend of three and a half miles to the west of south Pr(,H|„.r
now follows, and in tl"- lower mile and a half the river passes through '•'"■(?•"•
a narrow rocky channel with perpendicular sides, called Prosper (iorge
and falls in a succession of chutes and ra|>i(ls over one hundred feet.
To avoid this obstruction, the river was left tour miles and a half below
the bend, by a portage of three-quarters of a mile, which passes over a
ridge and ends about the middle of the west side of a lake three miles
long and three-quarters of a mile wide. This lake jlischargos from its
U

J

81 L

LAIIItADOK l'ENI\«t:i,A.

iKirtli east end l>y .i small strpam, iicuiIjmi mile iDn;.', inUi a sfcoiMl lake
iiiiH mil<! loii^hy half a milt* widi-. Crossinij; this lake, the small ciixiked
stream l)y wliirli it disriiar;,'cs, is followed «omt' t vo miles to wliore it
falls into the main fiver, two miles ahoxc the lieno. and tliiisaWose the
chuttis and rapids. There is unly a slight fall from the ujiper lake to
the river, and as ft conso<iu«nce, when there is a freshet in the main
stream, the watei from it haeks up into the lakes instead (»f dischari{-
in;; from them.

.\ljove this portage the I'iver heromes very ero iked. It tirst ilow.s
from the east for a mile ami a half, then from .south-east one mile, N.
80 K. three miles, S. ."10 I'!. lhree-<|uarters of a mile, S. 4"i W. a milo
and a half, and tlnally S, 4.") Iv six miles, where it leavi's an expansion
over one mile wide, and full of iar<re islands, at the foot of the Ko.sh
liorge, runnin<{ south.

K(WH ti.iij,'.'. Through this yoi'ge the river falls sixty feet in two miles. The

portaf{0 past it starts from a sn'iill liay on the west sidi', and is di\ ided
into two parts liy a small pond. The first part is .'(()() yards loiii; and
rises alioul l^iO Uvx : the .second is three ipiarters of a mile in len>;th,
pa.ssing over a steep ridge of lH)ul(l<'rs and (Miding in i: small stream
which entei-s the liver a short distance ahove the head (»f the I'hutes

About half a mile below the Hp))er end of the portage, a river falls
in on the north side. Tt tiows in a deep, rocky \alley ninniiig east-
nor'h east for several miles, and has a Ion;; hca\y rapid ai)ove its
month. Its si/.e has been estimated at alxiut one half that of the
main branch, and it has been cidled |{oss Uiver. Above the <» trge the
main river is split into ;i number of small channels by several low
islands. These islands form a delta in the eastern end of Ijike Nasas-
kuaso, which extends to the westward six miles, and is a mile and a
half aci'oss in its widi-st part. The river passes only through the east
end of the lake, which formerly must, ha\'e extended to the head uf
the portage, the portion now occupieil by th" delta lia\ ing been filled
up with alluvium brotight down by the river. Surrounding tin- lake
are rocky hills that rise fr<»in JOO to 100 feet above its surface. The
greater part of tJie adjacent coMitry lias been burnt o\er recently.
HiKlwin's Mttv Vfow its west end, tlu! canoe route of the Ifudsoii's Bay Company
leav" the Kast Main Miver to cross to the Hupert Hiver on the way
fj 1 n Nichicun to Kupert House, This lake is considered liy the em-
ployees of the company to be situated half way between tlie-e two
ii'.' ces. The Indians who hunt in this legion are in the habit of con-
gregating hi're and on the lakes at the foot of the large island above, to
meet the caitoes going to and returning from Hupei't House.

kiiitMi.

( li/.'Mtiiy H
< ;>ll'<- iimti

KAST MAIN ItlVKII.

».') L

Al)ovo Liikc Niisaskuaso tho clmnicter of tlu' river luul country again rimniriir i.f
iliaii^'os, the latter becomes Hatter and less rugged, the hills seldom |,ak,. Xjimon
riso over I'jO feet above tin, river, and the rid),'es are farther apart, '<""'"'•
with swamps and small lakes (iilinj^ the broad shallow valleys between
them. The river lluws almost on the surface, and is often divided into
sevi'ral channels by large islanrls. Small lakes and bays also branch
off on either side, so that it is dillitult to tell when a tributary I'iver
falls in.

in this manner the i'iver continues for nine miles, when it becomes (;,.,
divided into two main channels by (!rand Island, fourteen miles long
and live broad. Tlw north channel is more than twice the si/i' of the
south one, and it is furthei- subdivided, especially in its lower part, by
large islands. The south branch, from the foot of the island, passes
southward oout five miles and widens out into two lake-expansions
with numerous bays, all having an east-andwest direction. Into the
south west b,iy of the upper lake, live miles from its outlet the
( 'ii-arwiiter l!i\er enters. This is a snudl su-eam (lowing out of a
large lake of the same name on the portage-route from l^ike MisUissini.

'I'he upper lake icf<>rred to has Iwen called Tide Ijake, on account of
the deposits of mud that cover the shores and i.slands u]) to freshet
mark of the river, giving the laki^ the appearance of a tidal bay at low
water.

ml l>liiii<l.

of Grand Island, tho
and much obstructed
>(l at the head of this
This .st .earn tiikes its '|-|,.|i,.(jnnii

I'or seven and a Indf miles alnive the In
rivei- a\-crages 'lOO yards in width, but is shit
by sandy shoals. Its direction is again east
course is the junction of the Ticheganu Hi

ri.se, according to the Indians, to the south i .isl,, near the head-waters '^i*''.
of the rivers llowing into the north c «f Lakt^ Mista.ssini. In
volume, it appeals to la; about two-thir iiat of the main branch,
and it has a heavy ra|)id at its inoutli

There are only a few families (»f Indi.ins who hunt along the lower ■ ,■ , .,

'^ lllMlllt\,s of tllC

part of the I'iast Main Ifivi-r, theri^ being i long interval from Lake V',:\>x .Mmti

Nasaskuaso to below the (Jrt'at IJend. I at is totally uninhabited.

Owing to the numerous rapids and chutes, this river above tho mouth

of the Straight Kiver, is not used as a lughway to the inti'iior, and

only one family ascends it alH)ve that stream. Previous to lt<f<y, there

were three families who hunted in the neigid)ourlio(Kl of the Wabamisk

Itiver, but duiing that winter, with the < option of one woman and

a small Ixiy, these all perished by starvation or cannibalism. In 1MD2, Pi,„|j|„,

the scene of this tragedy was found at the iiKKith of that river, but,

nothing being known of such an o<;currence, it was only remarked as

LAUKADOR PENINSULA.

llK'IPliSC (if

fiirlicririiiK
aiiiiiiiilH.

Fiih.

unusual that Indians sliuuld leave their tents standing, and their
household effects scattered ulxiut.

Above Lake Na.siiskunso, from the many old camps seen along the
river, there must be a number of families who hunt in this vicinily,
and who in tiie sunnner descend to Ruj.ort House, by the portage -route
to the Rupert River. Owing to the absence of hunters along the
greater part of the river, tiie fur-bearing animals are rapidly increasing,
and beaver signs are quite common ; bear tracks are also numerous in
the burnt regions. Not a sign of caril>ou was observed from Lake St.
John to James Hay, and these animals seem to have been totally ex-
terminated in the region about I^ake Mistassini anil from there west-
ward to Jam(!s Hay, ijeing now only met with to the north and
north-east of the Kast Main River.

Fish are found in abundance in every lake and river, throughout the
region. The following kinds were taken in the net aloig the Kast
Main River: — Whitetish, pike, pickerel and suckers. In the lower
parts, where the banks and bottom are formed of clay, sturg(!on are
taken in abundance by the Indians; and from the mouth to the first
fall, and in the tributary streams, small whitefish an.l sea-trout ascend
from the sea in large numbers, from about Sept(tnd)'.'r 1st, until the
river is clos(!d by ice. Trout are also caught in the rapids of the upper
part of the river.

Kivtr.

I'/i/ier East Mdiu Jiivi-r.

Three miles alM)ve the Tichegami, a rocky ledge crosses the river
diagonally, causing a low fall, where the survey of the lower part of
the river in 189l' began. Above this fall the river bends sharply north-
»vard for a half mile, and then abr.ut .south-east for three miles, to the
heiul of a long, but not strong rapid, which occupies the upper half of
that distance. The direction now changes to north-north-east for two
KowHtstakaii miles and a half to the m<Juth of the Ivowatstakau liiver, a large branch
coming in from the iiorthward and entering the river from a consider-
ably higher level by a heavy rapid or low chute. According to Indiain
estimation this stream carries about one-sixth of the water of the main
river. Inuiiediately above the forks, what appears to be another
branch, also broken by rapids, is seen on the south side ; but it is only
a channel ]iassing on the south side of a large island or islands, and
.sepjirating from the main channel al»ove the rapi<ls and portage, five
miles farther up. The north or main i-hannel contracts from a width
of nearly half a mile, below the island, to less than a (juarter of a mile,
and the current is quite stn)ny, with two rupids, the lower of which

•]

UPPeit EAAT MAIN RIVER.

87 L

two miles above the foot of the ishiiid, is n half mile long ; but the
upper one is short and steep, with a tremendous rush of water, the
river fallinji eight feet in one hundred yards. The portage is on the
north sidi', and is called the Sunday Portage.

Up to this portage the country surrounding the river is low and almost ( 'Imiucti r vi
tlat, with only a few isolated hills that seldom or never exceed one ^"J,1',t"y' '"*'
hundn-d feet in elevation al)ove the general level, while the river flows
only slightly below it, in a shallow valley from 300 to 1000 yards
wide, having in most cases low sandy banks never more than seventy
feet high. The sand and gravel of the banks are made up of moditied
boulder-clay arranged by the action of the river. On either side of the
river, the .soil iipp<!ars to be light and .sandy, and, as small tires oi\ly
have traversed this region, the timber has not been destroyed, but
thickly covers the country, the t ees •.'•.•burring in the following order
of al)undanee :- black spruce, Rv ■!. ''nii pine, larch, bid.sam tir, white*
birch and aspen, the last being exceedingly rare and only found along
the river in low straggling clumps.

Above Pu!iday Portage the river flows directly from east for the next
four and a half mihis. The average width is nearly 400 yards and
the current, is strong, with two rapids one and two miles al)<)ve the
portage, the upper one being so heavy that canttes must be lightened to
ascend it. The portage past it is about "200 yards long, on the norih
side. At the foot of the lower rapid a small branch from the south
joins th(! river.

The river now turns sharply to t ho northward, and, flowing from tiuit
direction, in the next mile breaks through a low ridge in a shallow,
narrow, rocky channel, and falls tifty-tive feet from the level above, the
descent taking the form of a heavy rapid. To pass this tin* Pond I'midPortitK**.
Portage is made on the east side. To reach it a small stream is ascend-
ed alxmt 200 yards^ and from there 200 yards ptjrtage up a low hill *
leads to a sinaU pond ; crossing this, a rough road over boulders and
through swanijis fi.>r half a mile ends at a small channel of the river,
behind an island. From here the course is N. 45 E. for a mile, and
then in a general direction N. 4.5 W. for Hve miles, with many minor
bends and cnnjks. About one mile up this course, what appears to l»e
a large braiK-^ c(tnies in on the east side, but it is jirobably only a
channel leaving the main stream several miles above, and so forming a
large island. The river continues about a tjuarter of a mile wide, is
shallow, and flows with a strong steady current, breaking into small
rapids at points and narrows. Another small stream comes in from
the northward at the upper end of the course. Now again Wnding

HS L

.AIIItAOnK I'ENINHIM.A.

oiistwiiril II iiiilc iiUivc, the river widens out iiitu .-i .small liike, so
fi'o'.vded with low isliiiids timt its limits efiimut he seen.

f ;ii»riii t( icif From Kundiiy I'ortiipe to this lake, the charivcter of tiie river Imnks

Smidiiv i'cirt- ""*^^ surrouiHling eountry is similai- to that hefore de.serihed, the banks

"K'- heini,' low and the eountry nearly flat, with isolated hills and rocky

ridges generally under 100 I'eet, and ntver exeeeding lTiO feel in

elevation.

Owing to an unfortunate aeeident on tiie Koksoak l{iver, through
the upsetting of on<f of the eanoes, the haroineter re.idings were lo.st,
and only II few hooked in the survey notebook ri'iiiain. l'"roiii the
mean of tlieso data the height of the river in this \ieinity is roughly
llci».'lit iilniM fou nil to be 1 loo fee' above sea-level, which agi'ees eloseiy with the
supiiosod dillerenciMif level UHween here and Lake .Mistit.ssini, that
]ilace being (ixed from the mean of readings taken from two aneroid
barometers -md exleiidiiig over several months.

From the lake-expansion, tin; river bends southward for a mile, and
then ilireetly oast, flowing froni that direction four miles, from the
base of a high rocky hill on the north side, which forms a pint «)f a
range extending from beyond llie north side of (he lake to the east-
Hill-. ward. 'J'hesc hills are very steep and locky, being foriiii'd of the

hornblende granite that now tak(!s the place of the softer scjiists and
gneisses of the Hat eountry below. 'I'hey rise from 100 to .'>00 feet
above the river.

IJefore reiu-hing the foot of the hills, (he river becomes somewhat
wider and flows between low banks of sand andgra\ej w ith a modei'iite
current in a shallow channel, much obstructed with iosv ^jindy shoals.
Much of the surrounding country has been burnt over, and in part It*
'I',.,.,... covered with small secoiidgrowlh frees, {{anksiaii pine then pieilomi-

nating. ^^'lle|■t• unliurnt, the forest is somewliat larger and tliiikcr
than that seen lower down ; this is owing most likely to a better soil.

At the foot of the hill the ri\er again abruptly bends to the stMjtrli

for a mile and then gradually turns ;uul resumes its easterly coursjf-tor

iive miles to Sharp I'ock I'ortagf. I'p to here the character oi hIib

river is similii.r to that lower down, being flat and slion' w.ihli n

moderate current broken l)y two .short ra|)ids, the lower im iIih Iv^nd

and the upper two nules al ove it. The range of hills on the

Liiw.r ((Hill- north side continues along the river and crosses it at the portage,

I;? ".,.",',' .' '"'^ *'" much lower that at the crossing it is little over a liun<lred feet

I'ortuKc high. To the southward the country is almost flat and both sides

have lietMi almost totally burnt. o\er, the tire on the north side being

most recent.

vow. I

I'PPRR EA8T MAIN ItlVKR.

89 L

I

1

Sharp rock Portaj^o is <>ii tlit> iiirtli nido iiiwi is nlioiit 400 yiirds loiijj,
the lower half jm^Hinx over sliiirp vt>rtieiil bani'H of horiibleiuip-st'lii.st.
The rivor tails ten feet ov«'r the wmie lctl>{es.

Above liic |H>rliii;o, jIk' coursi! is X tlO Iv for tlii'j'c miles to iinotliiM'
portiij,'!*, "JOG y.irtis lony, where a eluiti' of cijihl feet occurN, itetweeii
tht- jK>rt«ix«vi the haiikn are low, with traces of a terrace twenty feet
hi){K on thv south side.

rartliiT wjK the river Hows fi-om the north for a mile, anil then from Wide valley
the o.'usV f\uir noises to where it passes out from helween rocky hills, from I'.H.'k'i'iiitiiJe.
200 to d<'H)< feet hi^h. From the last portage to this point, the flat
\aH»;v i.s somewhat wider, and the shallow channel of the river is
ohsbrueted by a number of islands and j,'ravel shoals, the current here
b*Mni{ very stronj;.

After the hills are entered, the course is southeast for t wo tniles, and
then north for two miles. Alonythe south-east coin'se the rivei' is less
than .'too yarils wide, but on the northern ctairse the width is irre;,'u-
lar, varyin),' from .'{GO to ?*00 yards. 'J'he current everywhere is stronj,'.

.\l llie liend, .1 medium sized stream comes in from the south, Mink Clniti'.
and perhaps another on the north Hide a mih^ below. Another bend
to the eastward, and a mile of rivei'. leads to .M ink (-hute, thirlc(!n
feel hijjh, passed l>y a short poriane over th(! rock on the east side.

'J'he country surrounding the ri\cr fmin Sh.irp-rock l'ortano 1" ciianictiruf

hei'e, is rougher than that seen below. The ndges of rocky 'nils are ''',""'">■ "!"'^''

^ , . . . Slim|iriiclv

I'loser together and sli"htly higher, and there are also ridges of till I'ortiiKc.

apjiareiilly arran'.;-.d roughly parallel to the <lirection of the glacial
stria', oi- S. 70 NN . On both sides of the river there have l)een exten-
sive lir«'s and little of the oi'iginal forest remains. The trees continue
similar in size and numbois to those descrilied below, aspen Injing the
only one now absent. Terraces of sand and gravel are secii on both
sitle« a^ to thirty feel above the water, and occasional cut-l/anks of
boulder clay are noticed, where the river has eaten away parts of the
liiw hill -if drift mentioneil above. The rocky hills arc moderately
strewn with liouUIers.

Mink Fijrtage is followed closely by another short one, on the south
iti^, past a chute of nine feet ; and then for ti\'e miles the river llows
rapidly U-tween low and rocky banks to C'hami'.'l Portage. This port- cIkhuio
Hj(p is on the north side, and is about 800 yards long, terminating in '"'"K''
a suH*i\ channel above a fall and behind several rocky islands. I'p to
the head of the islands thei'e i.-^ but one .small rapid in the next mile,
whereas the main or south channel is a succession of chutes and heavy
mpvl* for nearly two miles.

90 r-

LAIiKADOIt PKMNHUI.A.

( 'linnicti'i' nf
I'uMiitrv iiImim
( 'haiiiD'l
I'lirta*,'!'.

TiiiiliiT.

Almiidaiicc
till in 'luN
region.

From the hoiul of the isIaudH, the river widetm to over liiilt' a mile
and t!ow8 evenly from tlie north-east between low sandy hunks, over
whieli cim l»e seen high hills in the distiince to the north-east, fast,
and south-east.

Four miles of quiet water is followed by a sliallow, lint rapid, full of
small rocky islantis and large boulders. After a sharp bend the course
is to the north for a niiif, and tli(?n noi-th-east for two miles to another
small lake-expansion. Along the two last atretches, the river, con-
tracted to less than 300 yards. Hows between rocky bank.s, and is
greatly obstructed by rocky islands and ledges, which cause short
heavy rapids with very swift water between them.

On the south side, at the head of th(! rapids, a conical hill rises 350
feet above the river. From its top a good, unobstructed view of the
surrounding country may bo obtained, as it is totally burnt ovtu' ..nd
bare. To the north-east, the river is .seer tlowini; with but one bend,
through a wide, straight valley, surrounded l)y l(,w hills. Thosi^ on
the north side are about 200 feet high, and are arranged in close, com-
pact ridges, everywhere well wooded. f)n the south side, there is a
wide valley filled with small lakes, that separates the conical hill from
a higher range parallel to, and fortning t!ie north wall of the river valley.
The highest of these hills reach and may exceed HOO feet. They are
bare and rocky, and have a very barren, rlcsohtto appearance, due to
the aV)sence of green woods ; fire rather than unfavourable climatic con-
ditions being the cause, as some of the hills have small patches of un-
burnt li-ees upon their summits. The sides and toj)s of these bare
hills are strewn with innumerable boulders of all sizes, from masses
several tons in weight to snuill gravel, but there is not much of the
finer material on the upper parts.

Tn the river-valley, larch is seen eighteen inches in diameter, and
black spruce and balsam fir of twelve inches, are common. The only
evidence of an approach to barren ground, is afJbrded by the thinning
out of Ledum and Kalniia and the su))stitution of white reindeer nio.ss
as undergrowth, whilo the trees begin to grow wider apart with
frequent open glades.

r Above here the i-iip-'-^ter of the river changes somewhat, long islands
of till are numerous, and there is a marked ab.sence of terraces or
stratified deposits, these being replaced by banks of irregular height
and outline, formed by the river cutting through the low lenticular
hills of moderately fine boulder-clay. The islands formed of similar
materials, appear to be hills of the .same description, and have only
been separated from those on either shore by shallow channels cut be-
tween them. For three miles and a half the river is over half a mile

lOW. 1

rPi'KK KAHT MAIN KIVKK.

91

wide, hut is very mIiiiIIow, iukI its hottoin is thickly strowii with Ixmlders
iitid sul>aiij{uliii' hioclfH of i^iieiss mid ){ninit*>, vt>i'y sitiiiliir to tiiu nu'k-
musses seen in placo in the vicinity. The descent, lK)th here and in
tile expansioiis furtlier up streiiui, is cdnstuiit and (|uite steep, c'llusiIl^
tlio water til (li)W witli a very swift snitMttli current, wiiicl; is nmre
ditlteult to aseeud in eanoes than broken water, wliere tlie edtlies and
quiet places behind lioulders and other obstructions are availaiile to
rest before tiie canoenien attempt other short ascents; whereas in
the steady, strong;, sino(»th current no such ciiances to rest occur, and
every fcKit gained must be held.

Bendi.if^ from east to north-east, the river contrncts to about 300
yards for two miles, and apiin expands at the head of a 1ar<;() island,
at the end of tiie course. Two sumiII streams enter from the norlii, at
the upper and lower ends of the stretch.

Turning eastward a^ain, the banks lioconiu more rocky and irregular,
with numerous small bays, so that the breadth of the stream varies
from ;lOU to 1200 fet(t. There is a small rapid on ' mile and a half up.
and at its head a large stream named the Misa-<k Kiver enters on the MiMtsk Kivcr.
north side, l-'roin this place the general course is N. 50' £. for six
miles, to the Cascade Portage.

Inime<liately above the .Misask Hiver, the main stream isdivided into
two eipial channels by a large island. The north channel is followed
east for two mihvs and then south for tliree-((uarters of a mile to tin*
head of tlie island. The whole distance is a continuous rapiil, culminat-
ing on the south bend in a chute of fifteen feet, which is passed by a
portage of 800 yards on the east side. There is a steep rise of one iCciivv ni|ii(l
hundred feet at the lower end of this portage, from the river up p',,j. "'
a cut-bank of till, to the level of the ridge above. From the head
of the island, half a mile of (juiet water leads to another portage,
on the west side, 1000 yards long, past heavy rapids, followed by
small rapids for half a mile, to the foot of another large island.
!''ollowing the smaller and southern ch:innel, another half mile of
stiff current leads to the Meat Portage, 300 yards long, on the west
side. Another short rapid is then passed, to the head of the island.
The rise in the river has now brought it to a level with that
of the surrounding country, which is broken only by low ridges of
till and an occasional rocky hill, seldom exceeding one hundred feet,
so that the surface prtisents the appearance of a very rolling prairie,
especially to the souti ward, where most of the trees have been burnt.
Everywhere the surface is covered with innumerable boulders and
subangular blocks of granite and gneiss.

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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. USM

(716) •72-4503

'^J^

LAHRADOR PENINSULA.

Character of
tlieriverlieldw
Long Portage
Creek.

River aliove
Long I'ortage
Creek.

Character of
coinitry alx)ve
Long Portage
■Creek.

Having now reached the general level, the character of the river
changes, and for the next nine miles, to Long Portage Creek, it is a
succession of lake-expansions, connected by short rapids. These
expansions are broken by deep bays, running between the low ridges,
and often pass by small narrows into other lakes, the country being
now covered by a perfect network of small lakes and watercourses,
lying between the low hills. The general course is slightly south of
east. The first lake is about one mile and a half wide, and it is two
miles fi'om the head of the island to the next narrows and rapid.
The water is shallow and there are several large islands. The rapid
above is half a mile long and is followed by a smaller lake, one mile
long, to a very heavy rapid, passed by a portage of 900 yards on the
south side. Above, there is cjuiet water for half a mile, and then
rapids, half a mile long, are followed by swift current for two miles to
the next lake-expansion. Tliis lake is also full of large island.s, and a
narrow channel on the north side leads into a chain of lakes extending
over ten miles to the north-east and branching off into numerous
other small lakes on either side of the main chain. A mile and a half
of steady current leads to another .small lake, into which the Long
Portage Creek flows.

Here the main river takes an abrupt bend to the south-west, and
after a short sharp rapid is ascended is found to widen out into a
string of lakes with numerous deep bays, for about fifteen miles ; it
then breaks into a he:i vy rapid two miles long, above which it con-
tinues south-west for a considerable distance, when it again turns
eastward, passing behind a high hill some fifteen miles south of the
forks.

The country about the forks is very similar to that already described,
consisting of a series of low ridges of boulderclay, arranged in broken
roughly parallel lines, coinciding with the direction of the glacial
striii', or S. 70 W. The general height of the ridges is about fifty
feet, while the highest rarely exceed one hundred feet. Between and
parallel with tliem are innumerable small shallow lakes, irregular in
shape and full of high islands formed of mounds of till. These lakes
are joined together by small watercourses, following each valley, and
the different chains often have lateral connections where an interval
occurs between overlapping ridges. The only conspicuous landmark
in this vicinity is the rocky hill situated about fifteen miles south of
the forks ; it rises about 500 feet above the general level, and is
unconnected with any other high land. To the south, south-east,
east and north-east the horizon is bounded by chains of high hills, at
a distance ranging from twenty to fifty miles from the forks.

•]

UPPER EAST MAIN RIVER.

93 L

The East Main River was explored only as far as the head of the Upjier Kast
two-mile rapid mentioned above. The route to Nichicun leaves the *
main stream at Long Portage Creek, where the river is still a large
stream, being nearly 200 yards wide at the rapid there, with an
average depth of three feet. According to information received
from the people at Nichicun, the main stream, although large where
the route leaves it, soon splits up into numerous branches, none of
which are of any considerable volume or length. The river bends to
the south-west for some twenty miles, and then turns eastward again
along the northern foot of the mountains that here form the water-
shed between the Rupert, East Main and Big rivers, flowing into
Hudson Bay, and the Peribonka and Outardes rivers, emptying into
the St. Lawrence.

Misawau or Long Portage Creek, from its mouth to the portage, LongPortase
following the stream, is thirty-three miles long ; but in a straight line "'^ "
the distance is twenty-four miles, and the general course is slightly
north of east ; the difference in length being due to its crooks and
turns. From the East Main River, for the first six miles the
course is north-east, the stream here consisting of a number of small
irregular lakes, joined by short stretches of river. At these narrows
the river is generally about one hundred feet wide, with a moderate
current and deep water. This course terminates with a rapid of six
feet fall, passed by a portage of 400 yards on the north side.

For the next four miles the river flows from the east, with a uniform
breadth of one hundred feet. The current here is strong, with three
short rapids, the upper passed by a demi-charge. Next follow small
lake expansions and swamps for four miles, in the same direction,
with one short rapid near the upper end. Still further up, the river
is crooked, and forms a reversed curve, ending at the forks, four
miles beyond, where it splits into two equal branches, the route
following the eastern one.

Above the forks, the average breadth continues to be about one Rocky
hundred feet, and where small rapids or swift current occur the Portage,
water is so shallow that wading is resorted to in order to pass loaded
canoes. For nine miles from the forks, to the Rocky Portage, the
character of the river is constant ; it has in most places a sluggish
current, with small shallow rapids at long intervals. The banks are
low, and the immediate surrounding country swampy. The portage
is 500 yards long, and follows the side of a hill on the south shore.
The river here passes through a narrow valley, between high rocky
hills, and in so doing falls thirty feet. The valley widens above the
portage, and the river again flows from the east, in a low valley,

94 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA

filled with numerous small lakes on both sides, conneoted with the
river. As the Long Portage is approached, the river becomes more
rapid and shallow, and it is only with great difficulty that loaded
canoes can be taken up it. It is left at the Long Portage, where it
turns to the northward, rising in the small lakes in that direction, at
no groat distance above this place.

Character of The country surrounding the lower part of this stream is almost
Loirg?oruge flat' an<l is traversed by ridges of till never more than fifty feet high.
Cre>'k. These gradually rise until the forks are reached, where they average

100 feet. From the forks to the Rocky Portage the hills recede,
leaving a low swampy valley through which the river flows sluggishly
in a channel but little below the general level. At this portage the
first rock seen in place along the river occurs. The stream here falls
over ledges of red granite as it passes down a narrow valley between
two steep rocky hills that rise abruptly to 300 feet.

From here to the Long Portage the valley is again wide and strewn
with numerous small lakes and swamps, connected by short channels
with the main stream. The hills on either side no^r have an average
elevation of 300 feet, and often show rocky faces.

Over one half of the country surrounding the river has been burnt,
and is now covered only with low shrub and reindeer moss. Owing
to the want of forest growth, the innumerable boulders and angular
blocks of all sizos stand out in remarkable distinctness, giving to the
hills the appeal ance of gigantic plum puddings. These blocks and
boulders with the amount of drift are a feature of the country, the drift
along the lower parts of the stream being so thick that it covers all
the underlying rocks which can be determined only from the profu u
of angular, untravelled blocks scattered about. On the very summit
of the high granite hill on the north side of the river, at the Rocky
Portage, there is a perched boulder over ten feet cube. Its corners
are only partly rounded. Numerous other large boulders are scat-
tered over the highest parts of this hill, and so thickly are they every-
where strewn that one might walk for miles over the country in
almost any direction without touching the soil with the foot. The trees
along the river are small and somewhat scattered, with little under-
brush, the ground being covered with white moss and arctic berries.
Black spruce predominates, with larch in the swamps and Banksian
pine on the higher lands. There are also a few small white birches
and balsam firs. One very small clump of aspen was noted.

Long Portage The Long Pc f tage is two miles in length, and from the creek passes
S. 30° E. over a ridge 200 feet high, terminating at a small lake 150

•J

UPPER EAST MAIN RIVER.

95 L

feet above its lower end. The lower half is burnt bare, but there is at
its upper end a thick growth of small black spruce, with a few Bank-
sian pines and larches. This portage is over the watershed which
divides the creek from the waters of the Pemiska Branch of the East
Main River.

From the portage at its upper end, a small shallow lake is fol-
lowed by a portage of one mile to a slightly larger shallow lake full
of great blocks of granite, which in turn is followed by another
portage of a half mile, ending in another small lake, triangular in
shape. The route to here has been due east ; it now turns south, and
in a half mile leaves the lake by the stream flowing out, with a short
portage past a small rapid at the outlet, and so into Opemiska Lake.
The country surrounding the small lakes consists of low ridges of till
from fifty to one hundred feet high, well covered with small black
spruce and larch to the exclusion of all other trees.

Opemiska Lake is six miles long, with an average breadth of three- Opemiska
quarters of a mile. Its longest axis lies nearly east-and-west. The
water is clear and shallow. There is one deep bay at the north-west
end, full of small low islands. The shores are generally low and sandy,
and the surrounding country is also low, with small ridges of till.
Ten mi)f s to the south-east of the lake, a high isolated hill rises about
500 feei/ above the general level, forming a conspicuous landmark ;
is regarded by the natives as the dwelling place of spirits, and on that
account given a wide berth. The country about here is unburnt, and
is well wooded with black spruce and larch, the former constituting
over ninety per cent of the trees. The only other tree met with is
balsam fir, found sparingly about the shores of the lake.

The Pemiska branch of the East Main River, flows out on the south Pemiska
side, about the middle of the lake, and leaves it with a heavy rapid. '^*"'' '
Its volume here does not exceed one-quarter of that of the river at
the mouth of Long Portage Creek. The route follows the lake to its
eastern end, where it ascends for two miles a small river about fifty
feet wide and full of rapids, with a total fall of twenty-five feet.
Three short portages arc necessary to pass the strongest parts of the
rapids. The country surrounding the river is low, rough and rocky,
with a superabundance of loose blocks and boulders, many of great
size. Two were seen resting on a rocky knoll at the head of the
rapids; the larger is more than twenty feet cube, and the smaller
more than fifteen feet cube.

The river ends in Wahemen Lake, another large body of water Wahemen
stretching to the eastward, divided by long, low ridges of till into

96 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

PatainiHk
Lake.

a bewildering number of deep bays. Tlie route closely follows the
southern shore, and, passing a small narrows, ends at a portage four
miles from the outlet. The portage is 1400 yards long, and joins the
river above a heavy rapid. From there to Patamisk Lake, at its head,
the distance is eight miles, in a general east course. The river passes
through five small lakes, each full of deep, narrow bays, and connected
■with the next lake by short, rapid stretches. The numerous bays and
the small size of the stream makes it very difficult to follow the
route vvithout a guide.

Lake Patamisk is reached by a portage of 1000 yards past a rapid
in the river, which is here not above twenty-five feet wide a«d very
shallow. This lake is the largest passed through between the East
Main River and Nichicun. The route traverses the lake to the end of
the north-east bay, seven miles from the outlet. Large deep bays
indent both sides, and the main body is filled with large islands,
which obstruct the view and hide the real size of the lake. A deep
bay extends westward from a. point half a mile above the outlet on the
south side. The limits of the shore on the north side could not be
determined, nor those of a wide deep bay on the south-east side, but the
lake evidently extends to the foot of some hills about ten miles from its
entrance. The water is very clear and in places deep, but as a rule
shallow.
Watershed A portage of 500 yards leads from Patami-fk Lake to a small shallow

Maiirand Big ^^^^ ^ne mile long, with a portage 200 yards from its cast end into
rivers. another smaller lake half a mile long. The portage from this lake

crosses a low bouldery ridge and ends in Kawachamack or Crooked
Lake, about twenty feet below the level of the last, draining into the
Big River ; so that the last portage is over the height-of-land bstweeu
the Big and the East Main rivers.

The country surrounding the route from Lake Opemiska to the
height-of-land is everywhere the same, consisting of ranges of hills of
boulder-clay seldom more than 100 feet above the general level. These
are separated by wide irregular valleys filled with small lakes, so that
fully one-third of this area is covered with watei'. An occiisional rocky
hill may be seen rising from beneath the masses of till, sometimes
Character of attaining a height of 300 to 400 feet. Immense numbers of boulders

country at the j^qJ loose angular blocks continue to be scattered in wild profusion
water8lie<l. , , . , j? i i •

everywhere. As the height-of-land is approached, the forest growth

becomes smaller and less thick, and is made up almost wholly of black

spruce, the largest of which are about six inches in diameter; the only

other tree is the birch, which forms less than ten per cent of the

whole. Where fire has passed, a number of years elapse before the

]

UPPER EAST MAIN RIVER.

\)7 L

second growth of black spruce springs up, which it does then only in
a thin straggling manner.

Crooked Lake, stretching N. 60° E., is nearly five miles long and Crookod
averages one mile in width, with numerous small lateral bays, which * "'
give it an irregular outline. The western part is filled with islands.
The north shore is almost wholly burnt and bare, while small black
spruce and larch cover the hills on the south side. The country
becomes higher and rougher, witu more rock showing up from
beneath the drift. A short portage at the east end leads directly
into the south-west branch of the Big River. This river rises
about 'sixty miles to the south and south-west, whore it drains a
number of lakes lying along the northern slope of the mountains,
close to others emptying into the head-waters of the East Main River
to the west and those of the Outardes River on the south side of the
mountains. The watershed in consequence runs east-and-west here,
on or near the fifty-second parallel of latitude.

The route enters the river at a bend, where its course changes from Big River,
north to east. In size it is nearly as large as the East Main River at
the mouth of Long Portiige Creek, being in the rapids about 200 feet
wide, with deep water flowing four or five miles an hour.

From the portage, the river flows N. 60° E. for eight miles, to the
foot of a sharp rocky hill 280 feet high. It flows almost level with
the general surface, and, like all the streams of the region, is made up
of a series of small irregular lake-expansions, connected by short nar-
row stretches of swift water. Even in the widest parts a moderate
current is appreciable. At the toot of the hill, the river enters a large
lake that stretches several miles to the eastward, and has several deep
narrow baj's separated by low parallel ridges of till. This body of
water is called Big Back Lake. The river flows only through its g^ck lakes,
north-west part, leaving it half a mile below its entrance, and then
bending sharply to the west, passes close to the foot of the hill, and
enters Back Lake. From the top of the hill, looking north-west,
the country as far as could be seen in that direction appears as if
overed by a great number of small lakes that lie parallel to, and are
separated from each other by low ridges running east-and-west. These
are not separate lakes but deep bays of either Back or Nichicun lakes,
these two bodies of water being separated only by a small short rapid.

This rapid is five miles from the foot of the hill, through Back Lake,
but the irregular shore-line of the lake must be at least fifty miles
long. From the hill, the irregular outline of Nichicun Lake is seen Lake Nichi-
stretching away toward the north for a great distance, bounded by *'""'
7

98 L

LAnRADCR PENINSULA.

bold rocky lulls often rising from 400 to 500 feet above its level.
Through breaks among these are seen the valleys of the outlets of the
lake. Toward the east, the country beyond the Back Lakes is seen
rising in ranges of hills from 300 to 800 feet high, of sharper out-
line than the ordinary Laurentian hills. These bound the horizon
to the south-east and south, and are said to form the north-oast
flanks of the central mountain range of Labrador which extends along
the watershed in a north-east and south-west direction from the liend
of the East ^fain River to about thirty miles east of Nichicun.
Thence it gradually sinks and is lost in the general level of the
country, whicli must there be over 2000 feet above .sea-level. To
the south-west and west the country is lower, with isolated rocky hills
rising above the level of the low ridges of till.

The only signs of an approach to the barren lands is the lack of trees
on the tops of the highest hills, but the rest of the country is well wooded

Forest fires, where unburnt. Fires have destroyed great areas of forest in this
region. They are sometimes caused by lightning, and wben once
started, burn with surprising rapidity, travelling as quickly through the
dry, white reindeer moss as over the grass of the western prairies.
The Indians too are often accountable for these fires, most of which,
it is likely, have been started by them, as they use smoke for
signalling from great distances. Islands in small lakes are usual-
ly fired for this purpose, but brands are often carried by the wind to-
the mainland, and thousands of acres burnt over in a sliort time, tiie
fire continuing until the first heavy rain and often breaking out afresh
when dry weather njrain sets in. At times the Indians purposely
burn large areas in order to ^^ repare the ground for bear-hunting ; for
within (\ few years after a fire, in this region, the surfyce becomes
thickly covered with blueberries and other small fruits, forming feed-
ing grounds for bears during the autumn months.

Climate. The climot« at Nichicun does not permit the growth of grain, and

in the small patch of land under cultivation at the Hudson's Bay
post, only potatoes are grown, and these rarely if ever ripen properly,
the tops being frozen early in September, or even i i August. Summer
frosts are also common and often severe.

The following information concerning the trees and shrubs about
Nichicun was obtained from Mr. Jos. IserhoflF, who is in charge of the
Hudson's Bay post there. Black spruce is found on the shores and

Trees. islands of the lake in abundance, and trees that will square six or seven

inches for twelve feet, are not uncommon. White spruce is not plentiful,
and is seen only in certain places along the sides of the lower hills.
Balsam fir is common, and is found everywhere near the water, some of

'•]

UPPER EAST MAIN RIVER.

99 t

tlie trees growing as large as tlio black spruce. Banksian pine is very
rarely seen, its eastern limit being defined by a line drawn nearly north-
and-south through the Long Portage, beyond which line to the east-
ward, only a few straggling trees are found, while on the west side it
is very abundant. White birch is common about the sides of the small
hillH, espocially where fires have passed long ago ; but no trees of a size
sufficient to afford bark for canoe-building are found in the vicinity,
and all the bark is supplied by way of Hudson Bay. Although com-
mon about Lake Nichicun, a short distance to the north and north-east,
it is very rarely met with. Small straggling aspen and mountain ash,
found in little clumps at wide intervals, complete the list of trees of
this interior portion of Labrador. Small fruits are very abundant, but
the prevalence of early summer frosts seldom allows the fruit to ripen.

Lake Nichicun is 1760 feet above sea-level, and is a very irregularly si/.c and out-
shaped body of water, with numerous deep bays. It is so plentifully Ij."","^ ^^"■^*'
strewn with islands, that it is difficult to form an idea of its size ; many
of tlie islands are large, and one. Big Island, is six or seven miles long
and about two miles wide. The greatest length of the lake is from east
to west, about thirty miles, and at the western end a narrows continues
on into Little Nichicun Lake, which extends several miles farther.
At its widest part the lake does not exceed ten miles across, and it is
so obstructed with islands there, that it appears much less. The average
width is abou'u five miles. The numerous long points stretching out from
both sides, together with the islands, make it almost impossible to
pass through the lake without great loss of time unless with a guide.
One of its deep bays, to the south-west, heads within a short distance of
the river, near the portage from Crooked Lake, and advantage is taken
of this to pass the rapids in the river when travelling from Nichicun
to the East Main Rivei'. The shores are low and covered with rows
of boulders shoved up by the ice. The country surrounding the lake
is rough, and covered with numerous ridges of boulder-clay. To the
north-west, north and east, there are high rocky hills rising from 300
to 600 feet above the lake. The islands are mostly portions of boulder
ridges, but some of the larger are high and rocky, especially Big Island.
The water is very clear and moderately cold. As a rule, the lake is not
deep and in many places it is quite shallow, with large boulders rising
above the surface. It discharges on its east side, the river flowing out
by three channels. The two southern ones soon join, but the northern
channel does not unite with the others for nearly fifty miles, or until
the river changes its course from north-east to westward.

The Hudson's Bay post is situated on an island a short distance Nichicun
from the inlet of the lake. This post has been long established, pro- Hudson's Bay
bably before the beginning of the present century. No record of post.

100 L

LARRADOR PENINRULA.

HiuIkoii Hay.

tho diite is known, but in 1840, a Mr. John Spencor was in chiirfi;e,
and made a Hketch map of the Hiirrounding covintry. At that time
an outpoHt was situated ut Lake Kaniapiskau. The map in now in tlie
office of the Geological Survey, and is very interesting, as it shows tho
watershed between the St. Lawrence, Hudson Hay and Ungava I Jay.
At present the pdst consists of five small log huildingR : the iiiaster'a
house, two servants' houses, a small store, work-shop and powder
niagu/.ine. ,

Oniioc rnntf to The supplies for the post are brought in from Rupert House by three
large canoes, eacii manned by six Indians. In order to reach Nichicun
in time to prepare for winter, the canoes leave the lake at the first
open water, or about June 15th. The trip to Rupert House is made
by the route to the East Main River, down it to a small lake called
Nasaskauso, thirty miles below where the route to Mistassini tuins
off. From this lake a portage-route through a long chain of lakes is
followed, and the Rupert River reached a few miles above Lake Ne-
miskau, about 100 miles above Rupert House, the river being descended
to that place. The total distance from Nichicun to Rupert Hou.se, by
the route followed, is somewhat over 500 miles. It takes two weeks
to go down with the canoes partly loaded with the furs taken during
tho previous winter, Rupert House being reached about July 1st.
Three or four days are spent there, and then the return trip up stream
is commenced, and by working throughout the long summer days,
from daylight to dark, Nichicun is again reached between the 15th
and 30th of August. On leaving the coast, t,he canoes are loaded down
to the gunwales, but before their destination is reached over a quarter
of their loads are consumed. This gives some idea of the diHiculty
experienced in supplying an inland post like Nichicun.

Sufficient provisions cannot be brought in to support the people at
the post, who have thus to depend largely on the country for food.
During the summer they subsist almost wholly on fish, caught in nets
in the lake, and are often for months without small luxuries such
as tea, sugar and tobacco. During the winter the living is better, for
then, besides the small rations of flour and other provisions, they are
able to obtain abundance of fresh meat. About a dozen caribou are
killed by the people of the post during the yeir, besides bfeavers, .
musk-rats and bears. Usually rabbits and ptarmigan are abundant
during the winter season, and are shot and snared as required. In
some years, however, both rabbits and ptarmigan are not plentiful,
and caribou are scarce. During such seasons the food supply is very
limited, and great care must be taken to prevent starvation, especially
as the Indians are affected by the same circumstances and flock to

Sustenance of
the inhabi-
tantx.

•1

UPPER EAST MAIN RIVEU.

101 L

the post for relief. A Hupply of salt fish is laid in, every autumn, Finh.
in case of need. The fish are principally whitefish and lake trout,
caught witli nets late in the autumn on the spawning grounds in
various parts of tiie lake. The articles of trade in the store embrace
small quantities of cloth, clothing, tea, sugar, tobacco, powder and shot.

Tliere are about thirteen families of Indians who trade at this post, indiiuiH.
but this does not represent all the people inhabiting tliis portion of the
interior, as a number of families prefer to descend to Rupert House
and trade there, bringing in their year's supply themselves. Others
living to the southward, who formerly traded at Nichicun, now descend
tlio rivers flowing into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and do their trading
at Jiersimis, Seven Islands, or elsewhere along the north shore.

These Indians belong to the western Nascaupee tribe. They speak
a dialect closely resembling that of the Monttgnais. The men^re of
medium height and fairly good physique. .Some are tall and well
developed, but the average height does not exceed five feet seven
inches. Like other Indians they are sinewy rather than muscular.
As a rule, they are less cleanly than the Alontagnais, taking little care
of their clothes or persons ; and they generally swarm with vermin.
Owing to the small numbers of caribou killed in this region, the natives
are forced to clothe themselves in garments bought from the Hudson's
Bay Company. They live in wigwams covered with cotton, as they
cannot get either the deer-skin used in the north or the birch bark
covering of the south.

The hunting grounds of the Indians of Nichicun extend from the Hunting
heigh t-of-land on the southward, to the head-waters of the Greater!",'. " "'
Whale River on the north. To the eastward they hunt as far as Lake Indians.
Kaniapiskau and down its discharge about fifty miles. There appears
to be quite an extensive area between their eastern boundary and the
western limit of the hunting grounds of the Hamilton River Indians,
who trade at Northwest River post. There is also a large area with-
out hunters on both sides of the Koksoak River, from where the
Nichicun Indians leave off, to where those from Ungava begin, as no
signs of Iridians were seen along that stream for nearly 200 miles.
The greatest number hunt to the westward of Nichicun, or about the
head-waters nnd tributaries of the Big and East Main rivers.

The presence of a trading post in the interior of Labrador, such as Necessity of a

that at Nichicun, is at present absolutely necessary to the Indians 'r***.'"^ ixistin
' r J J tiie interior.

inhabiting that region, and it is doubtful if the country »/ould support
half the present population without it. In seasons of plenty it is not
necessary, the Indians transporting their furs to some point on the

102 r.

LAIIRADOR PENINHl'LA.

coast, and returning inland with their next NeiiNon's Mupply, but in
HeiiNons of Httirvation, without tiie iiid furnished by tho post, a majority
of tho j)eo|ih) would die. The ><reatost number of deaths from starva-
tion occur about tho lluport and Kast Main rivers, in the country
inidwuy between Nichicun, MistiiRsini, and Uupurt House, where the
distance is t<M) great from any of these posts to obtain assistance
during the winter. Ho great has been t\w mortality in this region,
during the lost few years, since the extermination of the caribou
there, that tho cfmntry is nearly depopulated, and a supply of provi-
sions is kept by th(! Hudson's Hay Company at l/iko Nemiskau on tho
llaj)ert Hivor, to relieve tho Indians in oxtienu- fases o. necessit}".
From the above, it will be seen, that although at pn sent the population
of tho interior is small, it appears to bo in excess of what unassisted
nature would sustain with tho present habits of tho Iidians.
Kducivtioiiaiul Tlfc Indians of Nichicun all read and write tho syllabic characters
Imlm'i" ' " invented and taught by the missionaries of the Church Mission
Society, and letters written on birch bark with charcoal are comiiionly
seen on the portages along tho various routes. Tho nussionaries have
also a number of books printed in these characters, including a selec-
tion of hymns and almost the whole of tho Bible. These books aro
greatly prized by tho natives. Although nominally Christians, their
religion is greatly mixed with pugan ideas, and as their opportunities
of acquiring a knowledge of Christianity is limited to the short
stay every summer at Rupert House, it is no wonder that they retain
many of their old beliefs. The visit to the coast is the occasion for
the celebration of marriages and baptism.

Big River
below Lak
Xicliicuii.

Soute from Nichicun to Lake Kaniapiskati,

We left Lake Nichicun by the middle discharge, on August 5th,
1893. The general direction of the stream is north-east. For two
miles, to the first portage, its breadth varies from 50 to 300 yards, with
swift water in the narrows. The shores are \'ery irregular and are
made up of low ridges composed almost wholly of large boulders, with
little line material. Along the river and in the small bays, are distinct
traces of a terrace twenty feet above the present water-level. When
the lake stood at that hei<rht, it must have covered an area nearly
twice as great as it does at present, extending over a great deal of
land now dry, more especially to the south and south-west.

The first portage is on the north side, following along the summit
of a low ridge for 300 yards. The river here falls eight feet over a
rocky ledge. Two other short portages in the next two miles pass

■1

MCHU'l'N TO KANIAPIHKAU.

103 h

Hiniiliir Kiimll fiillH over l*Hl)<«m of rin-k. The third port'igo terininiitcs
ill a hay of a Hinall iaku-(txpaiisioii, tlie rivni* taking a nhort turn to-
ward tlio north and falling into tlio lako ahout half a iiiilo licyond the
portiigo. The next portage \h thrtMi miles below, the river in the interval
varying from 50 to 800 yaids in wi<lth, with numoiouM Hmall d»?cp
bays running off on either Hide. Into one of thoHo MuiriU buys the
south disfliargo fallH. The portage crosH(!8 a narrov/ point, around
which the river, greatly enlarged, rushen in a heavy rapid, obstrueted
by many huge boulders. On both Hides of the river here are sharp (Umrncter >>f
rocky hills rining from 100 to 500 feet above the water. Helow the HuVromi'liiiir
hills the valley widens out, and the surrounding ridges are low, «"uiitry.
with isolated rocky hills rising at intervals above them. For the
next eight miles the course is north, and the river alternates from
rapid narrows to small lake-expansions covered with little islands
and broken by narrow deep bays.' Tn the narrows, the river breaks
into small rapids full of boulders, and has a strong current even in
the widest expansions. A small lake is then entered with the river
passing out to the north-west. The route crosses the lake and goes
up a narrow bay for one mile and a half to its head. From here a
portage of 400 yards leads to a small lake two miles long, surrounded
by steep rocky hills .300 feet high. This lake is left at its east end
by a half-ndle portage, to another dmall shallow lake one mile long,
surrounded with lower boulder-strewn hills, followed by another
portage, a quarter of a mile long, that ends in >S(|iiare Hock Lake, Squnrs Rook
seven miles long, but very narrow, the average breadth being 400
yard.s, with small expansions at both ends and in the middle, where
a small branch of the hig River flows out on the north side.

The lake is surrounded with hills from 200 to 400 feet high. These,
like most of the country from Lake Nichicun, are burnt, and their
exposed sides often appear from a distance to be solid rock, but on
close examination they are found to be made up of angular masses and
boulders, closely packed together. Where the forest remains, it con-
sists almost wholly of small black spruce, with a few larches on the
lower ground, and very small white birch on the hillsides. A few Tre«'M.
white spruce trees ai'e seen growing on the low sandy terraces about the
lake. The route leaves Sijuare Rock Lake by a small stream flowing
in on the south side nearly one mile from its east end. This stream
comes from the eastward, in a wide valley, now filled with mixlified
drift arranged in beds of sand and gravel, which rppears to have once
been the bed of a much larger stream than th- j)resent. The stream
is ascended for four miles, passing on the way two short portages, where
the river falls in shallow rapids from one expansion to another.

V

104 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

The last portage ends in a lake four miles long and about half a mile
wide, strewn with small islands of till, or stratified sand. There is
evidence of a terrace twenty feet above the present water-levfel, and
there is a good deal of stratified sand and gravel seen along the shores.
High rocky hills rise from either side of the broad valley partly filled
by the lake. These hills have beon more than three-quarters burnt
over recently, and have a very desolate appearance. The trees are
somewhat smaller than those seen about Nichicun, but they still grow
up to the summits of the highest hills. A short portage leads to another
lake, to the eastward, a half mile up which another portage is made
past a shallow narrows ; then the lake widens out and continues eastward
for two miles. The hills on both sides are high and are burnt bare ;
the boulders, having been whitened by the action of the heat, stand
out in marked contrast to the blackened vegetation. A portage
Eagle Lake, of 400 yards leads to Eagle Lake, on another small branch that
flows into the Big River, some distance below. This river is now
divided into numerous channels by large rocky islands, which thus
form a net-work of lake-expansions over a wide area. Beyond
this place the route is very ditlicult to follow, passing as it does
through chains of lakes filled with islands, with deep bays
branching off on both sides. The route in some places leaves the main
lakes, passing by shallow narrows into large bays. The dividing up
of the river into various channels, that often do not join for several
miles, also leads to great confusion. Even with the aid of a map of
the route, much time will be lost in following it here, owing to the
sameness in appearance of the lakes and bays.

Crossing Eagle Lake, to its east side, one mile, the north channel of
Snipe Lake, the branch is ascend.' >1 one mile to Snipe Lake. Betweeen the lakes
the river is rapid and varies from ten to fifty yards in width. The latter
lake is two miles and a half long by three-quarters of a mile wide, and
runs northward, with a narrow bay stretching to the east for a mile from
its north end. A south channel leaves the lake in a bay about one
mile above the other outlet. The river again divides, giving two inlets
to Snipe Lake with a large hilly island between. The lake is
covered with small islands. Many of the surrounding hills are rocky
and precipitous, well wooded on the south side, with many blocks and
boulders scattered over them. The route follows the narrow bay to
the north-east. A portage of three-quarters of a mile leads from it
to another lake-expansion of this branch, eleven miles in length.
Long Lake, which is called Long Lake, and lies about N. 60° E. It is very shallow
and full of small islands, while great areas are obstructed with boulders
and angular blocks of rock resting on the flat, shallow bottom. Many

)!

•]

NICHICUN AND KANIAPISKAU.

105 L

r
V

irregular bays indent the shore, especially on the north side where
the land is low. The river flows out at the south-west end, and
must be broken by a considerable fall, as the sound of it is heard well
up the lake. Several small streams feed the lake, the largest flowing
in on the south side. The surrounding hills are rocky and burnt over,
and are lower than those about the last lake. They gradually sink
towards the east end, where the country is appreciably flatter and
lower, with many lakes separated by low ridges.

Two short portages and a narrow lake one mile long, lead to a
lake surrounded by low, rocky, boulder-strewn hills, and stretching
towards the north-east. The route passes only two miles through the
west end of this lake, and up a smiill irregular bay to the northward.
Here a piirtag • of 500 )nirds ends in a small lake twenty feet above
the level of the last. Half a mile beyond, another short portage is Watershed
made to the last lake on the head- waters of the Big T.Iver. The route B^g^a*nd Kok-
merely crosses this lake, which is large, and stretches away to the north- ^"'"•k rivers,
east, and then passes for 500 yards over a low ridge of boulders, forming
the height-of-Iand between the rivers of Hudson Bay and Ungava Bay.
The portage ends in a very large, irregular lake thirty feet below the
last.

From the watershed, the route runs northward for six mj\es, in
an irregular course, through Ice-bound Lake. This is another large
body of water with wide, deep bays stretching off to the north-east
and south-west. The water is very clear and shallow. The east side
is bounded by rocky hills about 200 feet high, while to the west-
ward the land is low, and is probably made up of points and islands
in this, or in similar lakes, in that direction.

A small stream flows eastward, from the north side of the lake, Male-otter
and the route follows it for six miles to Enchukamao or Male-otter ^*'^®-
Lake. The character of this stream is sitnilar to that of others in the
region, consisting of small, irregular lake-expansions, connected by
short rapids, with portages past three of them. The surrounding
country is comparatively low ; rocky hills are seen to the eastward 200
or 300 feet high ; the rest are much lower, and are composed of till.
Where unburnt, the country is covered with small, scattered, black
spruce, with white moss coating the ground. Male-otier Lake
stretches eastward eight miles, and varies from two to five miles in
width. At its east end it is split into two deep bays by a broad
rocky point, that rises about 500 feet above the lake. The summit of
this hill is destitute of trees and is covered with white moss. Islands
are numerous, and are generally well wooded with small black spruce-

106 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Character of
surrounding
country.

On the south side bare hills of granite rise often perpendicularly from
300 to 400 feet, while similar hills bound the north side, but appear
to be somewhat lower. Both sides have been burnt bare, causing the
scattered boulders and blocks that cover the hills to stand out prom-
inently. Along the base of the hills, on the south side, there is a
sandy terrace fifteen feet high, marking a former level of the lake.
The water is remarkably clear ; this is the case with all the water
north of the East Main River, and is probably due to the lack of
vegetable decomposition in the swamps and small shallow Ir.kes,
which to the southward gives the water a dark-brown colour. To
the northward decomposition does not take place, at least it is not
appreciable, on account of the short summer season during which the
heat is insufficient to warm the cold waters fed by streams from the
swamps that thaw out only on the surface, to a depth of twelve to
eighteen inches.

Male-otter Lake discharges by a short stream from the head of its
north-east bay into Lake Kaniapiskau. The route passes up the
south-east bay, to its head, whence a portage of one hundred yards, over
a low ridge, leads to the great lake. The difference of level is ten
feet.

•i

Lake Kani-
apiskau.

Hea level.

Lake Kaniapiskau.

Lake Kaniapiskau is probably the largest in this part of Labrador.
Its greatest length is from north to south, and is said to be con-
siderably greater than that of Lake Nichicun, or above fifty miles.
The lake is divided into two parts by a narrows, where the current
is said to be strong. The southern part is much the larger. As
the route passed only through the northern portion, nothing is known
of the lake above the narrows, except from information derived from
the guide. A high rocky point stretches out from the east side of
the northern part, and along with some islands in continuation of it,
practically divides that portion of the lake into two great bays.

From the hill on this point, 300 feet high, a good view is obtained,
but unfortunately the smoky state of the atmosphere obscured it when
we were there. From the hill, the south bay is seen extending about
ten miles to the base of a conical hill of granite over 500 feet higher
than the level of the lake, which is estimated to be 1850 feet above the
sea. This hill cuts off the view of the southern portion of the lake.
To the westward a deep wide bay stretches towards the south-west to
the foot of high hills in that direction. Northward from that bay, a
lesser one runs close to Male-otter Lake, where the portage is. The

•]

KOKSOAK RIVER.

107 L

lake-shore then sweeps eastward along the point, which extends about
five miles in chat direction. The bay on the north side of the point
extends to the north-westward about five miles, where the river
from Male-otter Lake comes in. Near here the Hudson's Bay
Company formerly had an outpost from Nichicun, but it has been
abandoned for over twenty-five years. Another deep bay extends to
the northward, with a channel flowing out of it, between low rounded
hills

The east side of the lake is less irregular in outline, but a wide fringe East shore of
of low islands extends from its north end to the narrows, with the apiHknu.
river passing out by two channels, one opposite the point, and the
other a few miles to the south. The country to the east of the
lake is much lower than that on the other side, and consists of low
rocky ridges, with wide valleys between, filled with lower ridges of till.
Tlie north end of the lake appears to be shallow, and is filled with
islands, as is the case with the eastern half of the south bay. The
western part of the latter is almost free from islands, and is said to be
very deep. The islands about the southern discharges are arranged in
parallel lines running north-east, and are chiefly composed of till, with
many large boulders. Some are made up of stratified sand, which is
also often seen resting on the till. The surrounding country is more
than half burnt. The lower unburnt portions and island.* are well
wooded with small black spruce and a few larch trees The summits of
the high hills along the west side rise above the tree-line.

Koksoak Rivir.

The largest stream falling into Lake Kaniapiskau flows in at its south
end. Its main branch rises in Summit Lake, a body of water situated
on the watershed about 100 miles south of the latter. A curious
feature is that it has a discharge at each end, the northern one flowing
into Ungava Bay, while the southern one, is a tributary of the Mani-
cuagan River, that empties into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. This is not
an uncommon case with lakes situated along the watershed in the
northern region underlain by Laurentian rocks. The river flowing
north from Summit Lake is joined by many other streams, draining the
lake-covered region to the south and south-east of Lake Kaniapiskau,
so that the river where it flows into that lake, is of large size.

As before stated. Lake Kaniapiskau has three discharges, and the
route follows the middle and least rapid one. Where i' leaves
the lake, the channel varies from uO to 200 yards in width ; it flows

Headwaters of
the Koksouk
RivPF.

Double dis-
charge of
Siimniit Lake.

Three outlets
to Lake
Kaniapirikaii,

108 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Character of
the river
below Lake
Kaniapisknii.

Character of
surrounding
country.

swiftly, and is Hoon broken by a succession of heavy, shallow rapids,
full of great boulders, the channel being cut in boulder-clay. These
rapids are almost continuous for five miles, and no rock is seen in place.
The south channel joins the middle one a mile and a half below the
lake, and, just above the junction, makes a very heavy rapid. Below
the junction, the river is 200 yards wide, and carries about twice as
much water as above.

Below the rapid, the river, flowing north, widens out into a shallow
lake four miles long and about one mile wide, with two deep bays on
the west side, into one of which the north channel is supposed to empty.
Northward of the lake there is a range of hills, partly wooded, while
in other directions the hills are isolated and the country covered
with low ridges of till. Boulders ate still common, but not nearlj- as
obtrusive as in the region west of Kaniapiskau. Leaving this lake the
river narrows to a quarter of a mile, and is broken for a mile by a
small shullow rapid ; then, narrowing to 100 yards, it How.-! swiftly for
another mile to a second lake-expflnsion. Here, widening to three"
quarters of a mile, the river continues northward for two miles in a
shallow channel full of sandy shoals and small islands. These islands
have a thick growth of stunted trees, not over ten feet high, of
black spruce, larch, balsam fir and white birch. A straggling
growth of spruce covers the low hills on both sides. Next, turning
north-west, the river continues in the siuns manner two miles and
then passer, into a large lake, full of islands, that extrnds eastward.
Where the river turns east, there are two distinct terraces of stratified
sand twenty and thirty feet high, with sharp conical hills of boulder-
clay protruding from the highest. Along the west shore of the lake
three miles, a narrows 500 yards wide is passed, leading into another
lake-expansion three miles long and over a mile wide, with a deep bay
toward the east. The country here is almost flat, with low hills along
the eastern horizon. The river now turns northward again, and for
the next three miks flows rapidly in a shallow channel about 400 yards
wide, with swampy shores backed with bare hills, less than 200 feet
high. Another lake-expansion, one mile across, is followed by a stretch
of three miles of river ending in a lake that extends away to the west-
ward. Passing along its east shore, the river flows out one mile beyond
its entrance. Now narrowing to 200 yards, it flows rapidly north-east
for two miles, then widens to 500 yards for two miles, and, bending to
the eastward, flows in that direction for three miles ; at two short
narrows it is broken into heavy rapids where it passes over low
rocky ledges. With the exception of one small hummock, this is the
first rock seen below Lake Kaniapiskau, but judging from the scattered

•]

KOKSOAK RIVUR.

109 L

boulders, the rocks underlying the thick deposits of drift are likely to be Absence of
soft mica-schists and mica-gneissos, and this accounts for the change in
the character of the country. These soft rocks having been unable to
stand the abrading action of glacier ice, have been planed down, and
only the harder parts rise in the low isolated ridges seen here. The
granites of the region west of Kaniapiskau, being much harder and
tougher, resisted the glacial action, and now stand up in the rugged
hills previously mentioned.

The river below is split into two main, and a number of smaller
channels, with the stream in a shallow channel almost on a level with
the surrounding flat country. Our route followed the east channel^
which flows north-east foui' miles, and then north four miles, to the
head of a heavy rapid. Two large channels join it at the fourth and
eighth miles, and there is a heavy rapid between the second and third
miles, with a large rocky island dividing it. When again united, the
river runs north-north-east for five miles, and flowing on the surface
over low, flat ledges, is almost a continuous rapid for the whole dis-
tance. Throughout, the breadth is 400 yards. Three short portages
are necessary to pass low chutes.

Turning due east along the southern flank of a low range of hills,
the river next narrows to less than 300 yards, and flows swiftly
between rising banks of till, with outcrops of rock along the shore.
Now bending east-south-east for three miles and then south for two
miles, the stream narrows to less than one hundred yards, and descends
in a narrow valley, cut out of till, with a rocky bottom. On the north First gorge of
side, the hills increase in height as the river descends below the general * ' '*
level, and at the lower end rise abruptly 500 feet alove the stream.
Those on the south side are somewhat lower. In the five miles, the
river falls over 150 feet, and is very diflicult to pass with canoes. The
Indians of Nichicun hunt only to the head of these rapids, and below
there is an interval of over one hundred miles of the river untravelled,
as it is utterly impossible to ascend the stream with loaded canoes.
Along this portion no portages are cut out past the falls and rapids,
and in consequence portage-roads had to be made by us. At the rapid
above, the sides of the valley are composed of almost perpendicular
walls of till one hundred feet or more in height, resting upon jagged
rocks covered with great rounded boulders for thirty feet above the Walls of
water-line. These boulders are piled up by the ice passing through {^ou^jers '
the gorge in the spring. The till banks at frequent intervals are
deeply cut by small tributary brooks. On account of the broken
character of the bank above, a portage had to be made along the
water's edge over the loosely piled boulders and jagged rock. The

no I.

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

rive." is here so rough, that the outfit had to be carried the entire five
milef., and then the empty canoes were let down along the shore with
frequent short portages past heavy pitches. A day and a half of hard
work was necessary to accomplish this.
Character of From Lake Kaniapiskau to the head of the gorge, the river wanders
the gorge. '"^'^^ about almost on the surface of the country, spreading out into lakes,
where the surface is flat, and contracting into narrow rapids where it
passes between low ridges. It follows the main slope of the country,
and falls with the general surface. Where it is obstructed with
rapids, these are frequently over boulders without any rock in place,
especially along the upper parts. The absence of a distinct valley
and the presence of rapids over boulder-clay, show that the river is
here flowing in a modern course, and does not follow its pre-glacial
valley, which is still filled with glacial debris. At the gorge, this
changes, and the river pas i down from the general level into a deep
distinct river-valley, probably of very ancient origin. Thi-i valley, dur-
ing the glacial period was at least partly filled with till, which in
scarped banks and terraces is seen along it, resting on its rocky sides.
The river follows this old valley from the gorge to its mouth. The
valley is, of course, not of constant depth, but descends in a series of
steps, with the gradual §lope of the surrounding country.

From the foot of the heavy rapid, the river, now in a distinct valley,
takes an easy bend to the east and flows in that direction for eight miles.
Here the current runs from four to seven miles an hour, with constant
small rapids. The river averages 200 yards in width, and descends in a
valley from a quarter to a half mile wide, walled in by steep rocky hills
that rise 500 to 800 feet above it. These hills are almost wholly burnt,
but where unburnt are covered with a straggling growth of black
spruce to within 200 feet of their highest summits. The tops are
treeless, and are covered with white moss and low arctic shrubs.
Boulders are now nearly absent from the sides and tops of the hills,
in strong contrast to the hills about Nichicun and Kaniapiskau.
Some boulders are seen, but they are so few as not to form a notice-
able feature.

The lower parts of the valley are filled with drift, often extend-
ing high up the rocky hills in the cuts between them. In the drift
the river has cut its narrow channel down to the solid rock below. The
rock, where not covered with packed boulders, is seen along the water's
edge. In many places the river-banks are formed of tightly-packed,
large, round boulders, that line the side to a height of fifty feet above
its summer level. These have been transported and packed in their
present position by the ice passing down during the spring freshets,

River below
the gorge.

um,

]

KOKSOAK RIVER.

Ill I,

and their height gives an idea of the volume and power of the stream
during flood time.

Turning south-east, the river continues in that direction under similar
conditions for three miles ; then it turns east-north-east, and the valley
and river both broaden. The river, now a quarter of a mile wide,
flows in a perfectly straight course for nine miles. Owing to its greater Continuous
width, the water is very shallow, and the continuous rapid is full of "''*" "'
bouldery shoals; the deepest channel being very crooked, requires
constant crossing of the stream to follow it. No part of the rapid
is rough enough to be dangerous, and the only source of danger is the
frequent shoals, on to which the swift current quickly carries a canoe,
if a sharp outlook is not kept. The packed boulders still rise from
thirty to sixty feet above the water, with stratified sand and fine gravel,
up to seventy feet, where a distinct terrace is seen, marking an older
level of the river. Along the margin of th'i water there is an almost
continuous exposure of solid rock. The hills are less precipitous,
especially on the west side. The valley if, filled with drift, of which
sections are seen along the banks. The river now turns north-
east for four miles, and broadens slij^litly, the rapids giving place to a
strong, steady current of nearly jix miles an hour. A mass of ice,
twenty-five feet long and six feec thick, was seen at the bend on the
north side, piled up on a great quantity of packed boulders, sixty
feet above the water, the remains of a great mass shoved there by j^g on hankx.
the freshet in the spring, and left by the receding water. But a short
time before, it had covered an area of over 100 yards square, but at
the time (August 16th), it was melting quickly. Similar masses were
seen along that shoie for a mile below ; they were all about thirty
feet above the level of the water, and the largest was 200 feet long
by thirty feet wide.

Both shores remain rocky, the rock coming out from beneath the
packed boulders. On the west side, near the lower end of the course,
there is a well marked teria.ce, seventy -five feet above the viater, that
is seen extending downwards for two miles. In places it is flanked
by a lower one forty feet high, with the boulders often packed to the
top of it. The hills forming the sides of the valley are now aljou.t 500 Valley much
feet high, and this nearly represents the height of the surrounding l"^^^"" t''*"
country, as all the little streams entering the river do so with falls country.
from small cuts slightly lower than the summits of the hills. From
the head of the rapids at the gorge, to this place, the river has fallen
420 feet without any direct drop exceeding four feet. The grade is
nearly constant, and exceeds ten feet per mile.

112 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Trees.

The river next once more bends to the southward, and flows south-east
for six miles, with a strong current, in a slightly wider and lower
valley. A large brook comes in from the eastward at the fourth mile.

For the last twenty miles the country on both sides is unburnt, and is
covered with scattered black spruce and a few larches, never more than
twenty feet high or exceeding nine inches in diameter. The tops of
the hills rise from 100 to 200 feet above the tree-lino. Turning again
directly east, the river flows in tlifit direction for six miles. The chan-
nel along here i.s wide and shallow, being filled up with sand and fine
gravel, borne down by the strong current above and deposited over
the flats of this part. Sandy shoals rise slightly above the water in
places. The hills on both sides are slightly burnt and are lower, with
gentler slopes towards the river than those further up stream. Rock-
exposures are less numerous, and the ice does not bank the boulders
on the shores to more than fifteen or twenty feet high.

After a bend to the east-south-east, a small rapid is passed, and three
miles below a little river falls in on the south side. This is the first
tributary of any considerable size that joins the main stream below the
commencement of the river-valley proper, and there nmst be only a
narrow strip on either side draining into the river, the rest of the
country probably being cut up into parallel vallevs, with watercourses
ill each, which only join the main stream at long intervals. The
small branch comes in with heavy falls, along the side of a rocky hill of
800 feet. Below, the river again flows eastward for three miles, with
a strong current, and has a terrace of thirty feet'Oi the south side. A
bend of a mile and a half to the north-east is followed bv another lonsr
stretch to the eastward. A heavy rapid, four miles long, begins at
the upper part of the north-east course. Then the channel
broadens somewhat, and the current is considerably slacker for the
next eight miles. The valley here slopes gently upward, on both
sides, and is partly filled with drift. The hills are high, those on the
south side rising from 600 to 800 feet, with well marked terraces at
sixty and thirty feet, cut out of the drift along tlieir flanks. The
north side is unburnt, and the trees are all small, stunted black
spruce, that grow to within 200 feet of the summits.

The general course for the next ten miles is east-north-east, and, the
valley narrowing, the river for the first six miles is a succession of
Riverterraces. heavy shallow rapids, full of boulders. Along the flanks of the hills
on the south side, several distinct high-level terraces are seen at 30,
60, 75, 100 and 150 feet above the present river-level. The upper ones
are broken, and only the lowest two are continuous. Below the rapids
the river widens to more than half a mile, and is correspondingly

Parallel
valleyB.

*\

K0K80AK RIVER.

113 L

shallow, with a snndy bottom. The hills on both sides now gradually
lower, and those on the south side retreat, leaving a wide, low, drift-
covered valley between their base and .the river. A bend of two miles
to the south is followed by a stretch towards the east five miles long.
At the foot of the first bend there is a rapid of three-cjuarters of a mile
where the river is over half a mile wide, and is in consequence very
shallow. Below this rapid the river is nearly a mile wide, and flows
with a strong current until it reaches the base of a low range on the
north side, where it narrows to 400 yards and is broken into heavy
rapids. The river now appears to break through this low range 200
to 400 feet high, and in doing so bends sharply to the south-east for
two miles, then north-east two miles, again south-east two miles, and
finally south for three miles, passihg out into a broad valley, where
it is joined by the Katakawamastuk or Sandy River, a large Sandy River,
branch from the eastward. While passing through the hills, the river
forms a continuous strong rapid, culminating in a twenty foot chute
a short distance above the forks. Although the river descends rapidly,
it does not fall ai quickly as the general level of the country here,
and, in consequence, below the forks it Hows nearly on the general
level, with only low rounded hills seldom more than 100 feet above its
shallow valley.

In this manner it flows eastward for five miles, with only one
small rapid, to the head of a rocky gorge. , From the head of Socdiid gorge,
this gorge a very distinct drop is seen in the country to the
eastward, with high hills that appear to be on the level with the land
about the gorge bounding the horizon. At the head of the gorge
the river is split up by little rocky islands into a great number of
small channels, and it pasaes through them in a succession of small chutes
or heavy rapids, gradually collecting into one channel ; after half a mile,
the stream, a mass of foam, rushes down a narrow gorge from thirty
to one hundred feet wide, with perpendicular rocky walls from 50
to 100 feet high. In one mile the river falls 110 feet without any
direct drop of more than five feet. The portage passes over the bare
rock on '.he south side. Below the gorge, the channel widens to half a
mile, and continues eastward, with strong current and flat rapids for
three miles. Here again narrowing to 100 feet, it falls thirty feet
into a narrow rocky gorge, which was named Eaton Cafi on, and turu- Eaton Caflon.
ing directly south, rushes down between jagged perpendicular walls
with a width varying from fifty to one hundred and fifty feet. As the
stream descends, the banks rise and become 200 feet high a quarter of
a mile below the first fall. Here the river turns sharply to the north-
east and continues as a rushing torrent, through a deeper and still
8

114 L

LAIIItAUOR l>KMN8UI,A.

Ci(K)d\vi)o(l
River.

Portage past
Eaton CuAon

narrowor gorge, with overhanging wiiIIh of red granite on the east
Hide. The overhang is so great, that a stftne dropped from tlie top on
this side would almost reach tlio foot of the opposite clitT when it Mtruck
the water '.\50 feet below. After falling in this manner for a third
of a mile, the river widens to a hundred yards, and changing its direc-
tion to east, descends less abruptly for a quarter of a mile, while
the walls of the caAon are a hundred feet lower, and much less
abruj)t. Next, turning north, it makes a direct fall of a hundred feet
into a circular basin alxjut tifty yards in diameter. Nothing but
seething water and foam is seen in this rocky basin, which resembles
a gigantic boiling cauldron. A small brook, on the north side, also
falls into the basin, descending the perpendicular wall in a cascade 200
feet in height. The river loaves the basin by a narrow rocky channel,
rushing out with a fall of thirty feet in immense waves that gradually
subside in a second and larger cii'cular basin at its foot, where it widens
to 150 yards. On each side of the central current there are strong
eddies rushing up to join the down stream, where it passes out from the
ba.sin above ; and, wlu ''e the contlicting currents meet, great whirlpools
are periodically former. . A small rocky island divides the river into
two narrow channels 'r'here it leaves the larger basin, whence it Hows
north-east for two mihs, and then gradually bending south in the next
mile and a half, still a nundred yards wide, it rushes along in heavy deep
rapids, between vertical walls of granite capped with drift that rise
from 100 to 300 feet above its surface, until it suddenly bursts out in-
to a wider valley running nortli-north-east, with a large branch called
G(X)dwood River flowing down it from the southward.

The portage past the caflon was made along the east side, leaving
the river above the first fall, coming out on the top of the bank at the
sharp bend to the north-eastward, and thence striking due east for a
mile over low rocky hummocks, with swamp between, and descending the
steep rocky course of a small stream to a narrow valley 200 feet below.
It then follows this valley for half a mile to a small lake, after crossing
which a portage of 150 yards leads out through a narrow gorge, with
perpendicular walls 160 feet high. Large masses of rock have fallen
from above and have filled the valley completely to a depth of seventy-
five feet. The small river passes under this mas.s of broken rock, and
in so doing falls twenty-five feet, to where it enters the main stream on
the south side of the larger basin at the foot of the caSon. Over this
mass of broken rock canoes and outfit were carried, as there was no
other place where the main valley could be entered, and the diflSculty
of the undertaking may be imagined when it is stated that over half
a day's labour was required to pass these 150 yards of broken rock.

]

KOKHOVK KIVRIt.

115 L

5

In the small valley, the trees are much larger than any seen since
leaving Lake MistaHHini. Growing on a rich alluvial soil along the
banks of the brook, is white spruce eighteen inches in diameter at the
ground and sutUciontly long to make two twelve-foot logs. The trees Lartfo tn-eH.
are, however, very knotty. Larch of similar size is also seen here,
along with white birch eight inches in diameter. The first white spruce
on the banks of the river was found oii a low bank of sand and gravel
at the mouth of the Handy River. Below that point, small trees of
this species arc commonly found growing on the lower terraces of
stratified drift. The higher lands support only a small growth of black
spruce and a few larches.

Below tht! junction of the Goodwood River, the m.ain stream runs Hivir below
north-north east for six miles, with a rapid current, in a channel 300 fi[l",^
yards wide. On the we.st side there are scarped banks of stratified
drift one hundred feet high; and rocky shores on the east side are
capped with drift and have two well-defined terraces at 60 and 100
feet above the river, the lower terrace being cut in fine sand and
grown over with fair-sized white and black spruce. Four or five miles
l)eyond the lower end of this course there is on the east side a range of
bare rocky hills over 1000 feet high. Widening out to nearly half a
mile, the river then turns north, and for fifteen nnles flows with a moder-
ate current in a shallow channel filled with sandy shoals. The eastern
bank is very rocky, and from 200 to 300 feet high, with patches of
sand along the guUeys where the brooks tumble in. These rocky banks
form the foot-hills of the barren range before mentioned. The west side
has also high and in many places rocky banks, but the country behind
is much lower than on the other side, with a few isolated hills more
than 500 feet high. On this side the surface is mostly unburnt, with
fair-sized black and white spruce and larch growing on the stratified
sands of the terraces, but with only a scant, straggling growth of black
spruce on the rocky and drift-covered hills above.

Remains of terraces are seen along both sides nt 10, 60 and 75 feet, (Jrauite Fall,
that at 60 feet being the most constant. Contracting now to less
than one hundred yards in width, the river falls eighty feet over a
ledge of rock at the Granite Fall. Two small rocky islands divide the
stream into three channels, the largest being on the north side. There
is a first chute of twenty feet followed by a perpendicular fall
of sixty feet in the smaller channels. In the main channc', a largo
mass of rock broken away, is apparently lodged at the foot of the
fall, as the water dashes up from below in a great wave forty feet
high. The river falls into a beautiful, circular basin, nearly half a mile in
diameter, formed by a deep semi-circular bay on either side. These
8J

116 L

LAIIRAUOK HGMNSULA.

l)i'fji cliiiniii'I

cut III lll'ift,

liayH are Hurrouiidfd liy wt-ll w<mm1h(1, iiprfipniliciiliir eliflfx "JOO fcot hiKh.
A wide Ih'iicIi of hiiiivII, wnll roiiriditd lioiildfrN, iis<>s Hlmrply from tlin
water and stretL-lion for sixty feot to tho foot of thttpurixMidiculiir wallH.
holow tint fiillH the river ivj^iiiii piiHsoH into a dnop viilley less tliiin a
mile wide, with rocky walls that often rise sheer from 8U0 to 1000 feet.
This valey during the ^{lacial period has heen partly tilled with
drift and th« river hiiH Hince cut into it a narrow channel, with
hij^h Hcar[)pd Itai ks of from 100 to .'500 feet, wilh terraces from 'iQ
to 150 feet above the present level. The direction of the valley is
nearly north-west, and tiie river, about 30u yards wide, ruslies
down it in a •/.ijfy.nf^. At every bend the ntream Htrikes a^<aiiist the
rocky walls, while a low bar of lar^e, round water-worn boulders
exttauls out friJin the o[i|K)site shore, throwing; the waters with
force aj^ainst the rocky banks, and forming deep wild rapida at
tiiese points. In this manner the river continues fallinjj; rapidly for
ten miles ; then the valley j^radually widens and there is a consider-
able interval of tl rift-covered land between the riv(T and the rocky
hills on the east side, where terraces at 20, .'iOand 100 feet are seen, cut
in the drift. The west side is still bounded by rocky hills, that rise
alwut 400 feet. In the valleys of small streams cut into the drift, and
on the terraces, white spruce trees forty feet high and eighteen inches
in diameter are not uncommon.

This valley continues fnmi three to five miles wide for twenty-five
miles and is remarkably straight, the cour.se being about nortli-west.
The river skirts its west side, where it flows close to the base of the
rocky walls, that rise from 200 to 400 feet above it. For seven
miles it does not average over 400 yaids in width, is very shallow and
greatly obstructed by sand and shingle bnrs, over which it breaks into
rapids. At the end of this stretch, a small river comes in from the
west, through a deep narrow cut in the mountains. Terraces are
continuous along the east side at heights varying from 20 to 150 feet
above the river. Balsam poplar trees forty feet high and ten inches
in diameter were seen on the lower terraces, along with white spruce
trees sixty feet high and over eighteen inches in diameter.

Below this brunch, tlie river soon widens out to more than a mile,
and is broken by sand bars into a number of wide shallow channels.
The bottom is formed of shifting sands.. The banks are lower and
are composed of stratified sand cut into terraces. The current is
slacker, and at the end of fourteen miles another and larger branch,
Death River, called the Tipa or Death River, comes in from the west, joining
the main stream by three channels, as it falls over a low ledge of
gneiss. Below this tributary the river narrows sopiewhat, but still

Balrtrvni
jMiplnr.

KOKHOAK KIVKR.

117 L

renmiiiN xhiillow, with lower hntiks, for four iiiilnH ; thori, narrowing
to 1«>SN tliiin 400 yarcU, it liumis tu tlin iiorthwurd into the heiul of
Cambrian r.ake, which is about two miles wide and tiurroundcd by
high rugf^ed hills of Cambrian rock.

In fourteen niilot, the hike i^raduHily sweeps round from north to f^miil'rian
nurth-wust, and at the end of the curve, another small branch from the
we<t flows in from a wide valley Iwtween tu^h barren hills that
rise from HOO to 1200 feet above the water.

The physical aspect of the country <:hang<>s as sonn on the Cambrian rimractt-r of
area is entered. Where the undcrlyinj^ mck is L<iurentiaii fjnciss or ""-""" ^y-
^{raiiite, the hills, though often high and with perpendicular sides
towards the river-valley, always have rounded tops, with long gently
curved outlines, while the hills formttd from the stratified Cambrian
rocks, are nmch sharper and more rugged.

The general dip of the rocks is towards the north-east, and, in conse-
quence, the mountains which they form show steep clifl faces towards
the west, with long gentle slopes on the opposite side. These hills run
in ridges roughly parallel to one another and to the general strike of
the rocks, that is, from south-east to north-west. They rise fiom 800
to 1500 feet above the surface of the lake, which is about 400 feet
above sea-level, and on the western side often have perpendicular clifl's
over .")00 feet high, with a great talus of broken rock at the bottom.
The cliff-faces have generally a reddish colour, due to the oxide of iron
present in all the rocks of this series. All except the lower slopes of
these hills are barren, or covered only with arctic shrubs and mosses,
with patches of snow in gullies near their summit ; this adds greatly
to the grand and desolate scenery, while the beauty of the plea.sant,
wooded valley of the river is enhanced by the contrast.

From the entrance of the small branch, the valley again turns
northward, and continues in that direction for eleven miles, to where
the lake gradually changes into the river again, with high hills
on the east side, in which the Cambrian rocks are seen resting on
rounded masses of gneiss. The hills on the west side retreat, leav-
ing a wide sandy plain, through which a large branch called the
Piachikiastook or Ice-dam River flows, entering the main stream Ice-dam
with a heavy rapid two miles above the end of the course. The "'^''''■*
main stream gradually narrows, and becomes shallow along the lower
part of this stretch, where it runs between low banks of sand. Turning
next to the north-east for seven miles in a wide sandy valley, it flows
along with increased current in a shallow channel three-quarters of a
mile wide, until it reaches a barrier of black shale and limestone,

118 h

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Shale FallH.

Swampy-bay
River.

Character of
river below
S\yainpy-bay
River.

where it falls sixty feet in about 200 yards, at the Shale Falls. Below
the falls, there is a circular basin with steep sandy banks sixty feet
high, and from it the river passes out to the nortli, and flows in
that direction for two miles between terraced banks sixty feet high
covered with large spruce, with outcrops of iron ore showing beneath
the sand along the water's edge.

Gradually bending around to the north-west, the river flows in that
direction for twenty miles, until it is joined by a large branch from the
eastward called the Swampy-bay River. By this stream, the Indians
formerly travelled to Fort Nascf',upee, which was situated on Lake
Petitbikapau on the upper waters of the west branch of the Hamilton
River, and only a few miles from the waterslied separating it from the
Swampy-bay River. Along the first five miles of this course, the
river is about half a mile wide, and flows between sharp rocky hills,
which rise 600 to 800 feet above it. Here an almost continuous ex-
posure of bedded iron ores is seen, consisting of red and specular hema-
tite, magnetite and sidertie, interbedded with siliceous limestones and
jasper. After five miles, the hills retreat on both sides, leaving a wide
valley of drift, through which the river runs with a steady current in
a shallow chann' half a mile wide. The drift is cut into terraces at
30, 50, 100, 150 and 300 feet. A small branch from the east flows
in here.

After four miles the hills again approach the river on the west side,
where they are sharp and rugged and rise from 600 to 800 feet in
precipices often terminated in sharp peaks. Two miles above the forks
there is a strong rapid half a mile long, where the river narrows to less
than 200 yards. The sands in the valley are greatly drifted by the
winds, and in one place the drifts are covering up trees twenty feet
high. The country is nearly all burnt from the falls to the mouth of
the Swampy-bay River.

For eight miles below the Swampy-bay, the main stream flows north-
west in a narrow valley, between sharp rocky hills, from 400 to 600 feet
high. The river-channel is from 200 to 600 yards wide, and the
current is strong. The lower parts of the rocky hills on the east side,
are covered with sandy drift and are terraced at several levels up to
200 feet above the present height of the river. The hills on the west
side rise directly from the water and have very little drift on their
flanks.

The river next turns north-north-west for seven miles, and then
north for seven miles more. Along the upper of these courses the
valley widens to over two miles, and is filled with drift, terraced to the
200 feet level, behind which it slopes gently upwards with a few sharp

i'l

•]

K0K80AK RIVER.

119 L

rocky hills projecting above it. Along the second course the land on
tho east side is only about fifty feet high, for three or four miles to the •

base of the hills. The country on the west side is higlier and the hills
come out at intervals along the river, with a large brook flowing in
from the west, about two miles from the upper end of the course.
The river here widens out to nearly a mile, and its current is not strong.

Along the last mile, the river narrows to 400 yards and flows
swiftly between hills of limestone from 200 to 600 feet high, very
sharp and irregular in outline. The rock has the appearance of
being greatly faulted. Turning now sharply to the north-east, the
river continues to flow swiftly in a narrow, rock-bound channel for
three miles, where it again turns northward, and continues in that
direction ten miles to the Pyrites Chute where it falls thirty feet in a hiut Pyrites Chute
mile over black shales on edge. Along the upper half of this course,
the limestones are almost continuously exposed along the river-banks,
rising in sharp ridges on both sides from 100 to 800 feet high. Along the
lower half, the hills retreat and leave a wide sandy valley, covered
with black and white spruce with a few larch and white birch. The
largest trees rarely exceed twelve inches in diameter and are much
shorter than those seen about the Cambrian Lake.

Below the chute, the course is north-west for fifteen miles. For
four miles the channel averages three-quarters of a mile in width, and
the surrounding country is low and flat, with sharp hills oi rusty rock
and a few exposures of limestone on the east side. A number of low
islands of limestone occur in the next mile, at the end of which
the river, at the Limestone Falls, descends sixty feet over ledges of that Limestone
rock, which cross the river-valley obliquely, and form a dam over which
the water pours in three main channels. The middle channel follows
the strike of the rock and forms a chute, while the other two fall
vertically, directly across the strike. Below the falls, for faur miles>
the river, about a half mile wide, flows between scarped banks of sand
and gravel seventy-five feet high ; and then, narrowing to less than
200 yards, for five miles it rushes through a narrow valley called
Manitou Gorge, cut out of limestone and shales, with walls from 50 to Manitou
300 feet high. Heavy rapids are met with throughout the gorge, and ^^^''tf-
considerable danger was encountere 1 running these with half loaded
canoes, especially at the lower end, where outcrops of limestone cross
the valley, hemming the water into narrow channels and causing small
chutes. Below the gorge, the river for six miles gradually bends
towards the east until it is joined by the Natwakami, Larch or Still"
water River, a large branch from the west. Along this portion the
current is strong, and a number of large islands of aand and shingle

120 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Stillwater
River.

Route to
Hudson Bay.

divide the river into several channels. The banks are cut out of clay,
overlain by sand, and often over one hundred feet high. As the forks
are approached, the banks on the west side become lower, and form a
broad sandy plain between the two rivers. The Stillwater River has
about half the volume of the main stream, and flows in from the west-
ward, through a wide valley. There must be a considerable quantity
of clay along its banks, as its water is quite muddy, in marked con-
trast to the clear water of the main stream.

By this branch the Indians journey to Hudson Bay. They follow
it to its head, and cross from there to Clearwater Lake, and by the
discharge of this lake reach Richmond Gulf. The Rev. Mr. Peck,
a missionary of the Chinch Mission Society, crossed by this route in
1885, and the tir.st expedition of the Hudson's Bay Company to Ungava,
traversed the same route from Hudson Bay in 1824.

Character of Immediately below the Stillwater, the river turns to the north-ea.st,

id
country b»'low

river and and for five miles is less than a half mile wide, flowing with a swift cur

country b»'Iow i , i • ■ •. • i

the Stillwater, rent between low, terraced banks in a valley two or three miles wide,

bounded by sharp hills from 500 to 600 feet high. These hills, still

composed of Cambrian rocks, run in sharp ridges from a quarter of a

mile to two miles apart. The direction of the ridges is roughly at

right-angles to that of the river. They resemble one another very

closely, and sixteen of them were noted in as many miles. They have

a cliff face towards the south-west, and a gentle slope towards the

north-east, apparently coinciding with the dip of the rocks. All

the cliffs show a thick capping of hard rock, probably trap,

with rusty weathering shales beneath. On the steep side, the hard

capping rock often projects beyond the softer shales, and so forms

overhanging cliffs. The lower valley, where unburnt, is wooded with

small black and white spruce and larch, growing in open glades upon

Trees. the terrace. These trees also grow on the hillsides, up to about 200

feet above the river. Above this, only mosses and arctic shrubs are

seen about the watercourses, the remainder being naked rock, which

forms over one half of the area under consideration. Ten miles below

the Stillwater, a small river comes in from the westward. The valley,

five miles below the forks, widens to five or six miles, and the river

spreads out to over a mile, becomes very shallow, and is greatly

obstructed by sand and shingle shoals, as it flows along with a strong

current, in the same direction for twenty-one miles.

Toward the lower end of this reach, the sharp Cambrian hills give
place to others of Laurentian rock, whose outline is less rugged and
more rounded. The interval between the river and the rocky hills is

( \

?

'•]

KOKSOAK RIVER.

121 L

?

occupied by a terraced sandy plain from twenty to fifty feet above
the river and is partly covered with small trees.

Low ledges of gneiss now cross the stream and form a number of
small rocky islands, causing a heavy rapid for nearly a mile, followed,
two miles below, by another a quarter of a mile long. At both rapids,
the water is shallow, and the channel is obstructed by reefs and large
boulders. The foot of the second rapid marks the head of tide-water. Head of tide-

From here the course changes to east-north-east for eighteen miles.
The hills on both sides retreat still farther, and appear to be consider-
ably lower. The river is now from two to five miles wide, and is
broken into numerous channels by long low islands of sand, and shoals
bare at low water. The river banks are from ten to twenty feet high,
with a wide drift plain extending to the foot of the bare, rocky hills,
on which the remnants of terraces are seen up to 300 feet above the
present water-level. This plain is only partly wooded with small black
and white spruce, and but two clumps of small balsam poplar were
seen on the north bank. Turning again to the north-east, the river
becomes still wider, with a deep bay on the north side, around which the
rocky hills sweep ; these then cross the river seven miles down the course^
where they form a number of high rocky islands, that hem the water
into deep channels, througli which it rushes rapidly in and out accord-
ing to the state of the tide. At and below the islands, the river varies
from a mile to a mile and a half in width, and its valley is bounded by
rounded rocky hills, rising from 100 to 300 feet directly from the
water, with only in a few places a narrow border of drift between,
which is sometimes terraced one hundred feet above the present sea-
level. The course continues nearly north-east to the mouth of the
river, some -twenty miles below.

Fort Chimo, the Hudson's Bay Company's establishment, is situated For; Jhimo.
facing a small cove on a low terrace on the south shore, about two
miles below the isla.ids. The terrace is about 200 yards wide, and is
backed by low rounded hills of gneiss. Small black spruce trees grow
only in protected hollows about the post, and the general aspect is
ver}- uninviting, with barren, rocky hills bounding the horizon on every
side. The post consists of about a dozen buildings, including a dwell-
ing house for the oflBcer in charge, four or five for the servants, a
trading shop, office, two provision stores, oil shed, salt shed, carpenter,
cooper and blacksmith shops and a dwelling house for the Indians.
These buildings are all, ^r nearly all, made of imported lumber.
There are a number of small boats attached to the post, along with a
small sloop and a steam launch, used in connection with the salmon
fishery. At present a vessel of about twenty tons is being built there,

122 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA

Fur trade.

Salmon
fishery.

from wood obtained about Ungava Bay ; most of it coming from snme
distance up the Whale River, which is the next large stream flowing
into the bay to the eastward. Firewood for the post is cut during
the winter in the vicinity of the first rapid, and is rafted down th®
river in summer.

The post is supplied by the company's steamer " Eric," which arrives
at Fort Chimo about the first week in September, and remains there,
loading and unloading;, for about two weeks. This is the only com-
munication with the outside world, and when the ship leaves, all touch
with civilization is lost until the following year.

The fur trade is, of course, the most important, and is carried on
both with the Indians and Eskimo. Foxes are the most numerous
of the fur-bearing animals, and are found throughout the barren and
wooded country ; they occur as to numbers in the following order :
white, red, cross, black and blue. Martens come ne.vt, and are chiefly
taken by the Indians along the edge of the wooded country, about the
head-waters of the rivers. Their fur is very thick, dark and long, and
the skins are generally larger than those caught farther south.
Wolverines are common along the edge of the barrens and northward.
White bears are killed frequently along the coast. Black bears are
very rare, and specimens of the barren-ground brown bear are obtained
only at infrequent intervals. Mink and otter are not common, and
the beaver is not found north of the thickly wooded area. Formerly
a great number of dressed caribou skins were traded at Ungava ; but
during the last two years very few were brought in, owing to a
change in the routes of migration of that animal.

The salmon fishery is carried t)n a*^ a number of places along the
river, below the post, during the month of August, and the annual
catch averages one hundred tierces for export. Salmon are also taken
in the mouths of the Whale and George rivers, the average catch at
the former place being fifty tierces, and at the latter one hundred and
twent y Merces. Formerly the company employed a small refrigerator
steamei' in this trade at Ungava, and the frozen salmon were taken to
London for sale. This has been abandoned for several years, and the
salmon are now split and salted. The white porpoise is also taken at
Ungava, on the Leaf River, a stream a short distance north of
the mouth of the Koksoak, and at George River. The toial amount of
oil so obtained is about eighty tierces of forty gallons each. O^^her
articles purchased are feathers, ivory and eider down.

Seven years ago there were ninety families of Indians trading at
Fort Chimo. But in the famine, due to the failure of the caribou

HAMILTON INLET.

123 t

hunt, during the winter of 1892-93, nineteen families starved to Indians,
death in a body, and at another place six families were totally lost ;
besides these, all the other Irdians were throughout the winter in a
state of chronic starvation, ttnd many died, so that out of a population
of two hundred and fifty persons, less than one hundred and fifty
survive.

y*> V

Ilnmilton Inlet.

Hamilton Inlet, Invuktoke, or Esquimaux Bay is the l»»'?{est and Hamilton
most important of the many long, narrow fiords or inlets 1 ' indent •
the Atlantic coast of Labrador and Newfoundland. Its greatest
length, from Indian Harbour to the mouth of the Hamilton River
at its head, is slightly over one hundred and fifty miles, while its
average breadth is about fourteen miles. The longest axis lies north-
east and south-west. At its mouth, from the mainland near Purple
Island, on the north shore, to Grinder Point, on the south side, the
distance is twenty-three miles. Thence the inlet gradually narrows
for forty-three miles to the mouth of the Double jMer, where the
width is less than two miles. Here the inlet is divided by a long
locky ridge, the northern portion, or the Double Mer, extending jjoubie Mer.
westward some forty miles. A narrow, less than one mile wide,
extends from the point five miles into the main, or Groswater Bay.
Again widening, the channel is divided by a large rocky island five
miles long called Henrietta Island. At its head, on the south side,
a long narrow bay, called Back Bay or Backway, runs otf to the Backway.
eastward for about twenty-five miles, with an averaj;e breadth of four
miles. At the east end of this bay a ridge one hundred and fifty feet
high separates it from a small lake, with a sluggish brook that empties
into a bay on the coast. The total distance between the head of the
bay and the sea coast is not over ten miles ; the country between
appears to be wholly formed of drift material, and it is quite probable
that in pre-glacial time there was an opening of the coast here.

The main bay alwve Henrietta Island quickly expands to four
miles, and then more gradually to twelve miles, at the mouth of
Valley Bight, eighteen miles above the narrows. Valley Bight is a Valley Biglit.
small bay on tiie norih side, about three miles wide at its mouth, and
gracjally narrowing for five miles to its head. From the mouth of
this bay the main body has an average breadth of eight miles as far
as Charley Point, some eight miles up. This portion is greatly
obstructed by islands, of which Neveisik, St. John and Haines islands
are of large size, and are also high and rocky. From Charley Pqint

124 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Northwest
River.

to Mulligan Point the distance is thirty miles, and the average
breadth of this portion is fifteen miles, with two large bays, one on
each side. That on the north side is called Nebavick or Mulligan
Mulligan Bay. Bay, and extends behind the long, low point of the same name. It
is about four miles wide at its mouth, and of about the same depth,
with a small river coming in at its head. The bay on the south side
is called Etagaulett or Big Bay ; it is ten miles wide and nearly five
miles deep.

From Mulligan Point to the mouth of the Northwest River, some
twenty-three miles, the breadth gradually decreases to eight miles, and
considerable intervals of low sandy land intervene between the water
and highlands behind, while the waters on both sides are shallow,
and are greatly obstructed by sandy shoals and low islands, especially
on the north side, where a fringe of islands extends several miles out
from ^lulligan Point to within four miles of the mouth of the river.
The Northwest River Hows in at the foot of a small shallow bay, and
at its mouth is about 100 yards wide, with an average depth of fifteen
feet. The narrows are only half a mile long, and then the river ex-
pands into a shallow lake, one mile wide and three miles long, at the
head of which is another contraction of about 400 yards, with a strong
current where the river flows out of Grand Lake. This is a large
body of fresh-water extending westward some forty miles, and is from
two to five miles wide, and very deep. As only a comparatively
narrow strip of low sandy land separates this lake from the bay, and
the sand has probably been deposited there by aqueous or glacial
agencies, it is probable that at no very remote time the lake formed
an extension of the present inlet.

On the south side, immediately opposite the mouth of the North-
west River, is Carter Basin. This is about three miles long and a
mile and a half wide, and is connected with the main body by a channel
little over one mile long. Into this basin two rivers empty, the larger
or western one is called the Kenamou River. It is a large stream
that rises on the highlands to the south-west, where its sources inter-
lock with those of the St. Augustine and Natashquan rivers, which
empty southward into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The Indians report
that it Hows through a deep valley in the Mealy Mountains and is un-
navigable with canoes, owing to the almost continuous, steep, shallow
rapids. No high falls are reported on this stream. The smaller
stream is called the Kenemich River, and takes its rise on the top of
the Mealy Mountains only a short distance inland, to the south and
south-east of its mouth. It descends the steep sides of the hills close
to its mouth in a succession of high and beautiful waterfalls.

Kenamou
River.

'■J

HAMILTON INLET.

125

From the mouth of the Northwest River, the shore trends south-
ward nine miles to the end of Sandy Point, a low, broad expanse of Sandy Point,
sand stretching this distance out from the north side, evidently the
remains of drift brought down by the Hamilton River. Opposite
Sandy Point the bay is only three miles and a half wide, and shoal
water, caused by an extension of the point, continues to the south
side, with only eighteen feet of water at the deepest part, where the
channel is leas than a half-mile wide.

Beyond the point, the shore again trends northward, forming Goose Gcxjsc Bay.
Bay, which averages nine miles in width and is nearly twenty miles
long, to the head of Terrington Basin, where Goose Bay River Hows
in. This is a shallow stream, draining a considerable area of country
between the Grand and Northwest rivers. Goose Bay is in most
places quite shallow, being filled up with sand brought down by the
Grand or Hamilton River, which flows in on the south side, nine miles
above Sandy Point. A low sandy point, about five miles wide, separ-
ates the river from the upper part of Goose Bay.

The country surrounding Hamilton Inlet is generally high and rocky. Character of
On the north side, commencing at the entrance to the bay, the hills country,
range from 100 to 400 feet, and are only partly wooded with small
black spruce, in the valleys and on the protected sides. As the nar-
rows are approached, the land rises from 200 to 500 feet, and con-
tinues between these heights, until Valleys Bight is passed. Beyond,
it is still higher, seldom under 500 and often over 800 feet, forming
a high rocky ridge separating Double Mer from the main bay. Fif-
teen miles above Charley Point, the hills pass inland around the head of
Mulligan Bay, leaving a wide interval of low land between their bases
and the shore.

Still continuing inland, the hills cross from the head of Mulligan Bay
to the shores of Grand Lake, and are more irregular in height and out-
line than below. One hill called Mokami, or Kokkak, rises in an MokamiHill.
imposing cone of over 1000 feet, with bare rocky sides and top, form-
ing a conspicuous landmark, said to be visible from any high hill,
within a radius of seventy-five miles. The hills above Northwest
River skirt the north side of Goose Bay, and gradually close in beyond
it, to form, with those of the south shore, the wide valley of the
Hamilton River.

The country along the south side of Hamilton Inlet at its entrance,
is comparatively low and swampy. The hills first reach the shore
about fifteen miles below the narro'vs, and then follow it closely to the
mouth of Backway. Along the narrows they rise abruptly from 500

126 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Monat.

Mealy
AIountaiuH.

to 1000 feet, and in places are flanked with sandy terraces up to 150
feet above the sea. Along Backway they average 600 feet, and
culiuinate in a rounded conical peak called Monat, over 1000 feet high.

On the other side of Backway there is generally an interval of low
land, rising in terraces to the foot hills of a high, barren range called
the Mealy Mountains, that occupies a large area of country between
the south side of Hamilton Inlet and the head of Sandwich Bay.
These mountains rise precipitously from 800 to 1 200 feet along the
side of the itdet, without any low land, from the mouth of Backway
to within ten miles of the mouth of Carter Basin, where they pass
inland, and ultimately form the south wall of the Hamilton River val-
ley. Along the inlet the sides and tops of these hills are almost totally
devoid of trees, owing to the blasts of the prevailing cold north-west
wind that sweep across the bay, especially during tlie winter season.
Inland, it is reported that small trees grow abundantly in protected
valleys. As the liead of the inlet is approached, the trees aro seen to
cover the lower slopes and to rise higher and higher, until near the
mouth of the Hamilton River, they are found extending to the very
tops of the hills, here from 600 to 800 feet high.

Gtorge Island. Below the narrows, the inlet is obstructed by a number of large rocky
islands ; of these the most conspicuous is George Island, which lies about
six miles off the south shore, at the entrance. It is nearly four miles
long and in its highest point 750 feet above sea-level. A number of
smaller islands are clustered along the shore, on the north side at the
entrance, and Indian Harbour, an important cod fishing station, is
situated among these. From the entrance the inlet is practically free
of islands to within half way to the narrows, where it becomes
obstructed by several large ones scattered up its middle. The islands
above the narrows have been referred to previously as extending as
far as:. Charley Point.

Depth of
water.

{

Below the narrows, the greatest depth laid down on the chart is fifty
fathoms, and the average depth is about thirty fathoms. The channel
at the narrows and on the north side of Henrietta Island, ranges from
ten to twenty fathoms in depth. Above, the water rapidly deepens,
and soon shows ninety-two fathoms ; it continues very deep to beyond
Mulligan Bay, where it begin to shoal, especially along the shore, a fact
probably due to the filling up of the bottom with material brought
down by the large rivers emptying into the head of the bay. Twenty
fathoms appear to be the average depth of the deeper parts to nearly
opposite Northwest River, then it rapidly shoals to fifteen and to five
fathoms, until the bar at Sandy Point is crossed, after which slightly

•]

HAMILTON INLET.

127

^

deeper water is found, which again shoals gradually to three fathoms
at the mouth of the Hamilton Ri\er.

At Indian Harbour the tide rises seven feet at springs ; at the Rise of tide,
lower end of the narrows the rise is four feet, while above the nar-
rows the rise is only about two feet and continues the same to the
head of the inlet, where the rise and fall of the tide is much modi-
fled by the direction and strength of the wind. Below the narrows,
there is a strong current formed by the ebb and flow of the tide ; while
tlirough the narrows the rising and falling water rushes with a
velocity varying from four to seven miles an hour, and in a number of
places heavy rapids occur, which, with whirlpools and eddies, render the
passage of small boats dangerous when the current is at its strongest.
Above the narrows, there is no perceptible current, except that caused
by winds. The shores of the outer part of the inlet are partly wooded
with small black spruce and larch, while the hills and islands support
only a growth of low arctic shrubs anc( willows. As the narrows are
approached, the trees become larger and on the protected north side
cover the hills to their tops. White spruce, balsam fir and small Trees,
white birch are seen. Continuing up the bay, the trees become
larger and better until on the low lands about its head, plenty of trees
of the above species grow to sizes that fit them for commercial
purposes, and aspen and balsam poplar are abundant. At Northwest
River, and also at the mouths of the Kenamou and Hamilton rivers,
good crops of potatoes and other garden vegetaUes are grown annually, Croi*.
and it is said that oats will readily ripen also. At and below the
narrows, the cold arctic current, which passes down the coast, so lowers
the general summer temperature, that potatoes cannot be profitably
grown, and garden crops are confined to turnips, radishes and lettuce.

Hamilton Inlet is the present southern limit of the Eskimo on the Kskimo.
Atlantic coast. There is now a little tribe of some half dozen families
living in log houses on the shore of a cove called Carawalla at the
head of Henrietta Island. A few more families are scattered along
the shores of the lower half of the inlet. They are in a state of semi-
civilization, having adopted European dress, and all talk more or less
English. They are poor and dependent on the fishery and seal hunt
for a livelihood. The Hudson's Bay Company have two establish- Hudson's Bay
ments on Hamilton Inlet ; the larger, called Rigolet, is situated on the ^'°'"P'">y
north shore at the narrows, about three miles above the entrance
to Double Mer. This is the head-quarters of the Labrador Coast, or
Esquimaux Bay district, the ofiicer in charge having under his care
the posts of Cartwright on Sandwich Bay, of Northwest River at the
mouth of that stream, as well as those of Davis Inlet, and of Nachvaki
l)oth situated on the coast to the northward.

128 L

LAIIRAUOR PKMNHULA,

'rriiili'. The post at Iligolet consists of about a Jozon housos and storos, and

trade for fur and fish is carried on with the Kskimo and " (>laiiti'r8,"
The trade of the post at Northwest lliveris made with the "planters'
living al)out the upper part of the inlet, and with the Indians, who
hunt in the country drained by the Hamilton and Northwest rivers,
as well as with those hunting to the southward in the Mealy Mountains.
A Roman Catholic chapel was erected some years ago near this post,

MiNsiomirics, and a missionary priest from the St. Lawrence used annually to visit
the Indians there, during the summer. These visits, it is understood,
are no longer to be made, the Indians being advi.sed to go instead to
Mingan, or other posts on the St. I^awrence, to meet the missionaries.
All the Indians of the region profess Christianity, anil are very careful
to keep all the observances of the chur9h, even when far inland, but
their beliefs seem to be inextricably mixed up with their older pagan
ideas, and often their views on subjects of religion are very curious.

Iiidiiuis. The Indians frequenting Northwest River post are probably the

most miserable and ill-conditioned in Labrador. IJeing deer hunters,
and consequently depending largely on the caribou, both for food and
clothing, they have little inclination to trap fur-bearing animals and
thus improve their condition by trade. As their wants are mainly con-
fined to tea, tobacco, powder and shot, and some few articles of cloth-
ing, a small amount of hunting oidy is necessary to provide their price,
and beyond this, except for the labour of following the deer, or fishing,
they do nothing, spending much of their time lounging about their
tents. They will not work, even when offered very high pay, and when
asked so to do, simply laugh and say they are not hungiy. They are so
improvident that they never lay in a stock of fish in the autumn,
as the Indians to the westward do, and when during the winter, from
some cause or other, they fail to find the caribou, they are soon reduced
to starvation, and many die.

These Indians belong in part to both the Montagnais and Nascaupee
tribes. The former tribe hunts between Hamilton Inlet and the Gulf
of St. Lawrence, the latter to the west and north-west of Hamilton
Inlet. No great physical difference can be observed between these
tribes ; if there is any, the Nascaupees appear to be slightly taller and
less robustly built than the Montagnais. They talk different dialects
of theCree language, but the difference is so slight, that they converse
freely together, and understand one another quite readily. The name
Nascaupee in the Montagni-^is dialect signifies " the ignorant ones ''
and is given on account of their lack of knowledge in regard to the
works and ways of civilization, owing to their want of communication
with the outside world.

HAMILTON KIVKR.

Hamilton Riwr,

129 h

The liiimilton River is the most important stream of the eastern
watershed of the Labrador Peninsida. Its draiiiago-ljasiii embraces
a wide area of tlie country <*xteiulin>{ fr^in the he id of Ifamilton
Iidot westward to lonjifitude 08, or nearly half way across the
peninsula. To the northward its tributaries interlock with those
of the Northwest lliver which also flows into Hamilton Inlet, and
with th(! headwaters of the(Jei»r;{e lliver and branches of the Koks-
oak lliver that empty into Unj^ava Hay. The southern limit of its
largo tributaries is very irregular, and may bo roughly taken to be near
the fifty-second parallel of latitude, where the watershed separating
them from streams flowing southward into the St. Lawrence, is
extiomely sinuous and almost impossible to trace or define.

Westward of the Hamilton basin, the general slope of the country
is northward, and the drainage is in that direction from about
latitude 52', the water reaching the ocean by the Ivoksoak lliver,
which drains a considerable area of the central interior between the
head of the Hamilton lliver and the Big lliver flowing into Hudson
Bay.

Owing to the great difference in physical character between its
upper and lower portions, the Hamilton River is naturally divided
into two parts at the Grand Falls some 250 miles above its
mouth. The lower part occupies a distinct valley, cut out of Archa!an
rocks, with the present river-level from 500 to 800 feet below the
general level of the surrounding country. The valley varies in width
from 100 yards to more than two miles, and the river flows down it,
between banks of drift, with a strong current bioken by rapids in
several places, especially along the upper stretches, but only in one
place does it fall over an obstruction of rock.

This valley is well wooded where unburnt, and the timber is all of
fair size and of commercial value, in marked contrast to the small
stunted trees found partly covering the rolling country of the table-
land, on either side of the valley. The river flows into the head of
Hamilton Inlet, on the south side, and a long point of drift material,
principally sand, projects out into the bay, separating the river from
the head of Goose Bay, which extends several miles west of the mouth
of the river on its north side. This point is evidently formed from
material transported from the valley above and depo'^ited in the quiet
waters at the head of the inlet.

From the mouth of the river to the first fall, the distance is twenty-
seven miles, and the direction is S. 80' W. At its mouth, the river is
9

Draiimtfo-

IuimIii llf

Hikiiiiltiiii
Kivcr.

Divisicin of
rivLT into
npiiHi- iind
lower.

The river-
valley.

130 L

I.AIIRAOOK PRMNHULA.

TriiviTH|)im
KinT.

tlirMo-(|unrteru of a mile wi<Ie, and Hhnrtly ahovo wwlons out to iH'iirly
A mile and a half, for ten mileM ; tlion a number of flat, Mindy nhoalH
bare at low Hta^PH of tlm wator, divide it intu nuiiuTouH clian-
hoIm. .Man-of-war Island lies un tiie nortii nido Ave miles up streain ;
it iM low and about a mile long, and has a few trees growing on it.

On tlie south side, a mile and n half above the mouth, a channel
enters from Mud Lake, a shallow body of water two miles long, extend-
ing to the foot of the mountains and separated from the river by two
low, wo«Kled islands. Altout two miles above Man-of-war Island, on
the south side, a small stream, called Traverspine |{iver flows in ; it
rises in the mountains to the southward. ^^'lllM•e thin stream dis-
charges into the river, there is a small Indian trading (stablishment,
and the proprietor, Jos. Michelin, has made a little clearing about the
place, where he grows an abundant crop ai potatoes.

Three miles and a half above Tra\erspino, another small stream,
called l/'aroline Hrook, comes in from the south. Opposite its
entrance, the river narrows to a mile, and its channel continue;) with
this width twelve miles to Muskrat Island, which is low and well-
wooded, and a mile and a half long. On the .south shore, opposite this
island, there is a lit . "learing with the winter hal)itation of Thomas
Hope, the last pe.manent residence on the river. For three miles
above Muskrat Island, the river narrows to less than a third of a
mile, with a narrow island obstructing the channel in the upper mile.
Above this narrow, the channel widens out into a nearly circular
basin about two miles across, into the west side of which the river
MiiBkrat Fall, pours with a chute of twenty feet called Muskrat Fall. Above this
chute is a heavy rapid 400 yards long, with a chute of twenty-five feet
at its head, the total fall being seventy feet. At the chutes, where
it rushes over ledges of gneiss, the river is only about 100 yards wide.
Immediately on the north side of the falls, there is a rounded, rocky
hill rising 250 feet above the level of the valley. On the north side
of this hill is a wide plain of fine till. Where the edge of the plain
has been cut away to form the basin below the chute, a wide section of
over 100 feet of fine till is exposed, without any sign of rock in place.
The present channel at the falls is of recent origin, and it is probable
that previous to the glacial period, the river-channel was filled up
with drift material, so that when the river again resumed its course,
it was diverted from its old channel by the obstruction, and passed
to the south of the hill where the drift deposit was less thick.
Having once cut to the rock surface, well below the upper level of
the drift on the opposite side, it has continued in its present channel
ever since.

Muskrat
ImIiiiicI.

fi

■1

HAMILTON RIVKR.

l.'U

N

At ilH mouth, tlio hnnkn of the river nre low and niiriily, iviid hiive f;hHr»ft«r of
,. . ,, «,.,. . ii.i.ii riviT-viilli'V

Boarpiid fucoH from tnii to thirty foot hi^h, iriot'eaHinK h1( "ly ui hnight u.iow MunIc-

aH the rivor is UNcciKlod. 'IVrriices nro mnm to the Hoiitli, llaiikiiiK the '"

inouiitniiiN up to .'100 fft^t iihovi* scii h-vol. Alwvo TriivorHpine the

harikx riNo from HJxty to one huiidritd fuot and are out out of ooariio,

yeUowiNh, Htratiti<>d HaiulN.

The western t-xtcnHion of the Mealy MouiitainH forms th(! southern
wall (tf the valley, and, ;ihove the liead of the low point separatinn the
river from Ooosi' liay, rocky hills are seen also on tiie north side. The
valley, as fur ivs the first fall, varies in width from two to five miles,
and the river passes close to the foot of the rocky hills on the south
side fifteen miles above its outlet. As the valley has heen partly
filled with drift, out of wliich the present channel is cut, it is only
when the river accidentally passes dose to the rocky walls of the
valley, that any rock-expr)sures are seen. The hills on both sides rise
from 400 to 600 feet above the river-level, and partly repiesent the
general heigiit of the 8urrt)unding plateau, which rises somewhat
higher back from the valley on both sides. These hills are wooded to
their summits, but as the upper level is approached, the trees become
s.mall and stunted, and only a very few 8[)ecies grow on the tableland
above. Black spruce forms over ninety per cent of the wood, the
remainder bein^ made up of larch, white birch and balsam fir.

In the valley, on the contrary, the growth of timber is very good. Timber,
considering the position. White spruce trees two feet in diameter
and more than seventy feet high are not uncommon, and a large
number of ship spars have \teen taken out about Traverspine.
The black spruce does not grow quite as large as the white, but is
still large enough to afford good commercial timber, and the .same may
be said of the larch growing in the valley. Balsam fir, white birch
and both aspen and balsam poplar are here met with and grow to
fifteen inches in diameter.

Above the chutes the river soon widens out, and for thirty-five
miles flows from the south-west. Its average width for this distance
is slightly less than a mile. Fourteen miles above the chutes it nar-
rows to less than a quarter of a mile, and is broken by rapids for two
miles above. Below the?^e rapids there is a great sandy shoal, which
extends across the course of the river and has forced it to cut a deep bay
on the south side out of white sand, that rises in almost perpendicular
banks over one hundred feet above the water. This place is called
Sandy Banks, and the Hudson's Bay Company formerly maintained a Sandy Banks,
small trading-post on the north side, where the site of their clearing
is marked by a new growth of birch.

132 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Oul!-inland
Lnkt'.

Terraces.

Valley aliovt

(Jiill-island

Lake.

Above Sandy Banks, the stream is again over a mile wide, with a
large island dividing it into two channels, and a deep bay runs oft' to
the north-west from the main channel. Above this island the aver-
age breadth is half a mile for five miles, when it again widens to a
mile for th"ee miles, to the foot of the Porcupine Rapids. These
rapids ar- neatly three miles long, with a deep channel, tlie river
being about 300 yi^rds wide. There is good tracking along tiie banks,
and no portage is necessary to pass this obstruction.

Above the Porrupine Rapids, the river expands again into Gull-island
Lake, which is six miles long, and not over a mile wide. The name is
a misnomer, as there is a very perceptible current throughout. Gull
Island is a smill rocky islet on the south side, about two miles from the
head of the lake. From the Muskrat Falls to Gull Island the character
of the river and valley is very similar to the portio!i below. The ri\ er-
chnnnel is wide and shallow, at ordinary stages of the water, and the
current is strong, so that tracking is resorted to in ascending with
boats. The hills, as far as Gull Island, remain about four miles
apart, and there begin to approach, so that the valley is less than half
a mile wide at the head of Gull-island Lake. The height of the hills
varies from 500 to 800 fert above the level of the river, and much of
their surface is burnt over, with less than half of the north side of
the valley wooded, with trees similar to those described along the
lower stretch.

There are considerable accumulations of drift in the valley, into
which the river has cut its present channel. Terraces are common
and well marked, especially about the mouths of small streams flowing
down from the table-land, on both sides. As many as seven were
seen on the south side, below the Porcupine Rapids, the highest being
200 leet up the Hank of the mountains. The river-banks are sandy
and steep, and vary from twenty to seventy feet, with a margin of
nearly level shore at the waters edge, winch affords good ground for
tracking. Only two exposures of ro .k were seen along this course.
Several small streams fall into the main river on lioth sides, but none
of them is of any size or importance.

From the head of Gull-island Lake, the course of the valley changes
more to the northward and the river flows from N. 70' E. for eight
miles ; the next course is from S. 60 W. for two miles, and is followed by
a stretch of nine miles directly from the south. Along all these three
courses, the valley is from a quarter to half a mile wide, with almost
perpendicular rocky walls that rise abruptly from the water more than
800 feet, with narrow intervals of drift only in a few places. The
river varies from 100 to -100 yards in width, and throughout the dis-

r*>

HAMILTON RIVER.

133 L

tance is an almost continuous rapid. Up the stream the Gull
Rapid is the first, and extends from the lake upwards for five miles.
The water is shallow, and the channel is full of rocky reefs and Lxrge
boulders, over which it tumbles in foaming masses. Owing to the
shallow water, this portion of the river blocks in winter with ice,
which is piled up in all directions in great disorder and is quite im-
passable with loaded sleighs, until after sufficient snow has fallen to
cover up and smooth out the smaller inequalities. The second rapid is
at the bend and is called the Horse-shoe Rapid ; it is also shallow and HorHe-shoe
full of huge boulders. Along the upper stretch, the river only in one
place exceeds 100 yards in width, where it passes a small island. The
chaniiel is rocky and the water is deep, so that, although the current is
very strong, the water is not broken, except by a dead swell, until
within a mile of the head of the stretch where a heavy rapid makes it
necessary to portage.

At the head of this rapid, a large branch called Minipi River, enters Miniiii Riv«
tlie main stream from the south, through a deep, narrow vaileyi
down which it rushes with heavy rapids. This stream discharges a
large volume of water from its gathering ground on the table-land to
the south and south-west of its mouth. It is said to rise in chains of
lakes close to the head-waters of the Natashqu.m and St. Augustine
rivers which flow into the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

Between Gull-island Lake and the Minipi River three-fourths of
the timber in the valleys and on the hills of both sides has been
burned, much of it by a great fire that raged throughout the summer
of 1893. In the green woods remaining, many large spruce trees were
seen, from twenty to twenty-four inches in diameter, and suffi-
ciently long to furnish three logs each. A few narrow terraces were
seen on the hillsides, but owing to the scanty drift tleposits there is
not much chance for the development of ^erraces.

Above the Minipi, the main stream bends sharply, and for twenty- River-valley
five miles (lows from N. 80*^ W. The valley gradually widens out and ^."'T .'•'
to the upper er.d of the course varies from one to two miles across.
Its walls continue to rise from 700 to 900 feet above the water, and "
are nearly everywhere burnt liare. Terraces again become well
marked and numerous, and range from 20 to 250 feet in height. The
river channel is cut out of the drift, and the banks rise from ten to
one hundred feet above the stream. The river, for five miles above the
forks, is never more than 300 yards wide, and then widens to about
a quarter of a mile, and is broken by a small shallow rapid where it
passes four well-wooded islands, three miles up. Beyond the islands, it
narrows again for four miles, and from there m the end of the course

' the

134 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

it passes what is known as the " slack water," where the width varies
ffom 400 to 600 yards in a deep channel with gentle current. There
are three large islands along the upper three miles, with another called
Cockatoo Island four miles below. Two large brooks come in from the
north near the n^iddle of the course ; the lower one issues from a
deep cut in the hills. On the south side a small river flows in at the
upper end above the islands. Both sides of the valley is almost wholly
burnt to within a few miles of the upper end, where the north side is
well wooded with somewhat smaller trees thfin those previously met
with.

The valley now bends to the north-west for five miles, and then north-
ward for ten miles to where a small river flows in from the north-east.
Along these courses it does not anywhere exceed one mile from side to
aide, and ihe hills are particularly high and ruggetl on the west sidei
where they rise from 800 to 1000 feet almost perpendicularly from
ohe water. They are well wooded on both sides to within a short
distance of the small river, where the eastern limit of an immense
Great area of area of burnt countiy crosses the valley. This area, which extends on
both sides of the val'ey almost to Grand Falls, has been traversed by
numerous fires during different years, so that, with the exception of
isolated patches here and there, all the original forest has been destroy-
ed, and the sides of the valley and adjoining table -land are either
destitute of trees, or partly covered with smtU second-growth timber of
no commercial value.

Along the first or north-west course, the channel is only about
300 yards wide, and is obstructed by a number of small islands of
drift. The current is strong, and there is a small river that diops
into the valley with a beautiful fall on the west side near the head of
the course. Above, the channel widens to a quarter of a mile, and the
river is sh.4llow, with small rapids to the upper end of the north course.
CAche River. The stream that here flows in from the north-east, called Cache River,
is the largest yet seen on this side, and it has a distinct valley cut down
between the rocky hills to a level with that of the main stream.
Terraces are not prominently marked along the portion of the river
just described.

For the next twelve miles the valley Is narrow and very crooked, with
saarp bends and a general course north-westward. The rocky walls
rise, sharply on both sides almost directly from the water, leaving in
most places only a narrow margin of steep shore. The hills are nearly
all bare and rocky. Terraces are not common, and are best developed
at the junction of a small branch from the west about eight miles
up, where the terraces are seen rising one above another for 250 feet.

1\

/I

•]

HAMILTON KIVER.

135 L

J

The river varies from 100 to 300 yards across, and is deep and so Moruii
rapid that in winter ice is formed only along the shoi'es. The Mouni "^
Rapids are two miles long and have three heavy pitches c,t the upper
end.

The valley above straightens, ami the river flows S. 80° E. from Lake
Winokapau six miles above. The stream continues narrow and rapid
to the outlet of the lake, and is joined by a small stream five miles
below it. Towards the lake the sides of the valley continue to increase
in height, until at its outlet bare rocky precipices tower above it 1000
feet or more, with great masses of broken rock piled up at their base.
Only a few small trees grow in cracks on the sides and top^, and the
general aspect is wild and grand.

Beyond the valley on both sides, the country is covered with broken
chains of rounded hills of gneiss that rise from 200 to 500 feet above
the general level of the table-land, which is itself over 700 feet above
the surface of the lake. The lower lands are either swampy or covered
by small irregular lakes Iho ^ discharge by streams into the valley,
where they often fall perpendicularly 500 feet down the rocky walls.
During the winter the-.d streams freeze up, and their positions are
marked by masse.-* of ice often attached in fantastic forms to the bare
surface of the rocks. In other places where the slope is less, the water
wells out from below the already formed ice and congeals on its surface,
in this manner forming large ice ccaes.

The table-land is almost denudod by fire, only small patches of
trees being left about the lakes and swamps. These consist of a thick
growia of stunted black spruce and larch of no jommercial value.

Lake ^Yinokapau nils an expansion of tb''- river-valley, and is thirty- j^^j^g wino-
four miles long, its general course be.-^g N. 80° W., with two slight kapau.
bends near its middle. For fifteen miles from i< s outlet it does not
exceed a mile in width. Beyond, to its head, the breadth varies from
one and a half to two miles.

From its outlet, the north shore, for six miles, has a n«»rrow margin
of drift between the water and the rocky hills. Beyond this, and all
along the south side, the rocky walls of the valley rise abruptly from
the lake, and there is a marked absence of drift both on the hillsides
and in the valley.

The water is remarkably deep ; an isolated sounding taken fifteen Great depth of
miles up the lake, and abov}t midway across, gave 427 feet, while an- ' '^^
other taken by Mr. Bryant* gave 407 feet. A third sounding was

•A journey to the (?raiul l''alls of Lnlirador, p. 2<).

136 L

LAnUADOK PENINSULA.

Eli/.alx'tli
itiver.

Ancii'ut
Hudson's Brty
l>ost.

Cliarncter of
surrounding
coinitiy.

made fifty feet from shore on the south side, opposite the first men-
tioned, and gave a depth of 80 feet. No other soundings were made,
owing to the difficulty experienced in cutting through the ice, which at
the time we passed was four feet nine inches thick, and two hours were
required to make a hole throu;;h it with the implements at hand. In-
formation obtained from Indians shows that the lower three-quarters
of the lake are exceedingly deep ; the upper quarter has been filled
'n with drift brought down by the river.

The present bottom of the lake probably nearly represents the level
of the river previous to the glacial peri'^d, the valley below having
been in places filled with drift during tli> time to levels indicated
by the terraces seen along the sides of the valley, rising in places from
200 to 2oO feet above the present river-bed. The absence of any
rocky ledges in the river-bottom, except at the first falls, where the
ancient channel is on the north side of the rocky hill, points to this
conclusion. Why the valley should l)e filled with drift below and
above Lake Winokapau, and the portion occupied by tiie lake should
be almost free of it, is a problem in glacial geology to be worked out
in the future, but ror which there are at present no data.

A small island of drift, covered with willov.s and a few large white
spruce trees, six miles from the head of the lake, marks the beginning of
the shallow portion. Above the island there are numerous wide, sandy
shoals, bare at low stages of the water, and separated from one another
by narrow channels. The main channel passes close to the south
bank, and two large, low, wooded islands of drift separates it from a
smaller shallow channel on the north side. At the head of the lake, a
small branch called the Elizabeth lliver flows in from the west,
down a narrow valley, while the main valley bends to the north-west.

On the south side, at the mouth of the Elizabeth River, there is a
wide, sandy plain bout twenty-five feet aljove the river, and on it the
Hudson's Bay Company formerly had a post, which was abandoned in
1873, and subsequently destroyed by fire. A small river flows into the
lake from the south opposite the lowest island, and the drift on the
hillsides is terraced up to 200 feet about its niouth. On the north
side, there are three large brooks with deeply cut valleys, and one on
the south side ; besides these, there are manj' small streams that fall
directly over the precipices, from the tcble-land above, breaking the
monotony of the rocky walls, and adding greatly to the beauty of the
scenery.

The hills that bound the valley on its south side are remarkably
regular in outline pnd have been rounded and scratched by glacier ice.

1

•]

HAMILTON RIVER.

137 L

Those on the north side often rise in perpendicular clijs from the lake ;
their faces and tops are angular and rugged, and do not appear to
have been glaciated. The walls on both sides are from 700 to 1000
feet high, gradually lowering towards the head of the lake, where the
slopes are less abrupt and the hills more rounded. At the head
of the lake, the general level of the table-land on the south side
is 950 feet above it. The country on top is nearly level, and covered
with small lakes. Ten or fift(?en miles to the south, a conical hill
rises about 500 feet above the table-land. On the north side after an
abrupt rise of 400 or 500 feet, the land slopes gradually, and does not
attain the elevation of the south side for several miles back from the
valley. Only a few small scattered clumps of trees remain of the
original forest in the lake-valley ; these show that at one time the
shores and sloping hillsides were thickly covered with large trees of
white and black spruce, up to thirty inches in diameter. At present
must of the hills are l)are, or covered only with small second-growth
spruce and birch. The table-land to the southward is quite bare of
trees, only the blackened stumps of the former forest remaining. On
the north side, bare patches alternate with scattered second growth
black .spruce of smnll size.

Lake Winokapau is well stocked with fish, the employees of the Fish.
Hudson's Bay Company when stationed there, depended to a large extent
on fish for food. In the old journals* of the post, the catches of the nets
are recorded, and show that fish were taken abundantly, especially in
the spring. The catch included carp, whitetish, lake and river trout in
the order named. Potatoes and turnips were grown at the post, but
not very successfully, as after planting in the spring, everybody left the
place, and did not return until September, leaving the crops to grow
without cultivation.

From the mouth of the Elizabeth River, the main valley turns Mftdiin
N. 40° W., and continues in that direction five miles to the mouth of "'^'"•
the Metchin River, a small stream having a deep valley, and used as a
canoe route to the north-west interior by the Indians. Along this
coursf. the valley is about a mile wide, with the hills more rounded and
sloping than below, owing to the great quantities of drift deposited here,
through which only the rocky summits protrude. The river is less
than half a nii'e wide, and flows close to the north side to within half
a mile of the iletchin, where the deposits brought down by that
stream have formed a low plain, and have forced the main stream
into a narrow channel close to the .south wall. Terraces are common
and rise to more than 200 feet above the river.

*\Viiioka|)au ,io\iriiiils neeii at Kigolet.

138 L

LABRADOR i'ENINSULA.

Character
the valley.

Portage
River.

The course of the valley now changes to N. 70° W., and with a few
minor bends, continues in that direction for forty-five miles to the foot
of the Bodwoin Canon below the Grand Falls.

The narrow channel continues for a half mile above the mouth of
the Metchin River, where it widens out to an average width of 500
yards, with high rocky walls on the south side, and drift-covered slopes
on the north side. Six miles further up, there is a sharp liend *.o the
northward for one mile, when the river again resumes its pre\ious course.
At this bend, the walls on both sides exceed 800 feet, and those on
the west side rise in perpendicular cliffs directly from the river, which
of is here 400 yards wide. Above the bend, the character of the valley
is unchanged for twelve miles, the valley being from half a mile to
a mile wide, with high rugged hills, mostly burnt, on both sides. The
channel is cut out of the drift, and is more irregular in width than
below, being frequently narrowed by projecting points. The current is
swift and the water appears to be deep. Seven miles up, a small branch
flows in from the northward, ia a gorge cut down to the level of the
main valley.

After two well-wooded sandy islands are passed, another sharp bend
of a mile to the northward, opens out into a wider valley entirely filled
by the river, where there is little drift on the hillsides or along shore.
The river is very shallow and the current swift. This stretch is seven
miles long, and at its head the channel narrows to less than 200 yai-ds,.
owing to the amount of material brought down by the Portage River,
which cuts through a cliff and descends into the valley by a fall of
nearly 200 feet, that is almost hidden by the huge blocks -of rock
heaped up at its bottom. Shortly above the Portage River, the main
stream again widens out, filling the valley from wall to wall, and vary-
ing from half a mile to one mile in width for eight miles. The portage-
route of the Grand Falls, leaves the valley on the north side four miles
above the mouth of the Portage River.

Opposite this place and above it, the river is silted up with sand
brought down by rapids and deposited in the v/ider, quieter waters.
This sand forms wide flats, covered at high stages of the river, and cut
by numerous, deep, winding channels. Four miles above the portage,
two large, low, densely wooded islands mark the foot of the rapids that
extend almost continuously beyond for twelve miles, to the mouth of
the canon. The channel above the islands soon narrows, and the drift
deposits thin out, finally almost wholly disappearing from the sides of
the valley, which contracts to less than 300 yards in width and Vjecom^s
crooked. Three miles above th*^ upper island, the first rocky ledge since

LOW.]

HAMILTON RIVER.

139 L

leaving the Muskrat Fall, ia seen in the river bottom. Here, there is DisnHter
a heavy rapid which continues half a mile to a short bend to the west- "'"' "
ward. At the foot of the rapid, Messrs. Cole and Cary. of the Bodv.oin
College Expedition, had the misf* -tune to burn their boat and supplies,
and on this account it has been culled Disaster Rapid. The charred
remains of the boat was found close to the shore in a small patch of
burnt woods.

Two miles above this rapid, at the angle of a small sharp bend, a Unknown
large branch flows in from the west in a well defined valley. Inquiries '^ *""° *'
made among the Indians who had hunted about here, failed to yield
any information concerning this stream, and they were surprisetJ to
hear of its existence, as they all were without knowledge of any large
stream between the main river and the Elizabeth River, which enters
Lake Winokiipau. The only explanation given about this unknown
stream, was that it must be a deep channel of the Valley River,
and must leave that stream some distance above the main forks ; but
the origin and existence of two deep, well defined valleys sucli as these,
forming an island, is anomalous, and could only be accounted for by the
river splitting into two branches before it leaves the table-land.

Above the junction of this stream, two sharp bends of the nari'ow
main valley lead, after three miles, to a long straight stretch, where
the valley widens somewhat, and patches of terraced drift are seen
high up its rocky walls. At the upper end of the last bend, a small
stream comes in from the ncrth, descending in a succession of beautiful
cascades from the table-land 700 feet above. This stream drains a
number of lakes, and when the river is swollen by the spring freshets,
a small portion of it passes up a narrow bay above the Grand Falls,
and from there by a rocky channel into the small lakes, of which the
discharge is thus much increased during the early spring.

For five miles above the junction of this stream, the valley continues
straight and narrow, with sandy terraces flanking the rocky walls at
intervals along both sides. The river varies from fifty to one hundred
yards in width, and rushes along in a continuous heavy rapid, from
where the main body of water enters the valley by Bodwoin Canon.

Above the mouth of this caiion the main valley continues in the same Main valley-
direction upwards of ten miles, and then bends slightly northward, its i'".'^'*' Bwl-

r ' . . woni Canon.

further extension being concealed by the high walls on the north side.

As far as seen from the canon, the valley appears to be from a quarter
to half a mile wide, and is partly filled with terraced drift, with a
branch flowing with a moderate current down it. This branch has
lass than a quarter of the volume of the other river, and rises in Lake

140 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

O.-soki

DeHCent <if tlic
I'iviT iiHvr tlif
(Jnuul Falln.

Volume of
wnter at
Urand Falls.

imanuan on the tahle-limd, thirty miles to the westward. This
Uke also discharges b' another outlet into tiie main Hamilton River,
c'escrilied later. Eig! . miles in a straight line north north-west of the
mouth of the caiion, the main branch of the Hamilton River issues
from a small lake-expansicn, almost on a level with the surrounding
surince of the table-land, aid begins one of the greatest and wildest
de.' cents of any river in easiern America. A large number of barom-
etiic readings taken in the vicinity, in conjunction with regular read-
ing.; at the Hudson's Bay Company's post, at Northwest River, give
the ii"ight of the river as it issues from the lake as 1660 feet above
sea-levei. The height of the valley at the mouth of the gorge,
determined in the same manner, is very clo.se to 1)00 feet above
sea level. Conscq"en<^!;y, in twelve miles, the total fall is 760 feet.
Such a fall would be nothing extraordinary for a small stream, in a
mountainous country, but is phenomenal in a great river like the
Hamilton, which has been estimated to discharge at this point about
50,000 cubic feet per second, or nearly the mean volume of the Ottawa
River, at Ottawti, that stream having a mean volume of 85,000 cubic
feet per second at Grenville,* where it includes the waters of the
Rideau, Gatineuu and Lievre rivers. The descent includes a sheer
fall of 302 feet, the rest being in the form of heavy rapids.

The outlet of the lake is dotted over with small rocky island.s, capped
with dense thickets of small evergreens. These islanc's extend down-
ward for a r.iile and divide the river into a number of hutow ciiannels
with a sw.ft current. The stream, flowing southward, then narrows
to less than 400 yards, and in the next mile passes over a number
of rocky ledges between low wooded banks, falling fifty feet in a con-
tinuous heavy rapid. Again it widens out to nearly a mile, and for
two miles is ol)structed by many small islands, flowing swiftly between
them, with short broken rapids. Next, turning south-east, it con-
tracts to I'.'ss than half its previous width, and rushes along with
heavy rapids, in a shallow channel full of huge boulders, with low
rocky shores, capped with thin deposit of coarse gravel and sand, and
wooded abo^•e with small spruce and larch. In this manner the river
continues for three miles, gradually narrowing as it descends, with a fall
of forty-five feet along the last two courses. The banks and bottom of
the river are wholly formed of rock, and as the stream in the next mile
has cut a narrow and gradually deepening trough out of the solid rock,
at the lower end of the course it flows in a narrow gorge, with sloping
rocky walls 110 feet below the level of its upper end. As it descends

1

♦General Reiwrt Public Works, Canada, 1867-1882, p. 840.

•]

HAMILTON RIVER.

141 L

its width decreases from 150 to 50 yards, and it hurries along with
tremendous rapids.

The hist 300 yards are down a very steep grade, where the confined (Jrund Fall».
waters rush in a swirling mass, thrown into enormous, long surging
waves, at least twenty feet from crest to liollow, the deafening no'so
of wliich completely drowns the heavy boom of the great falls inmie-
iately below. After a ftnal great wave, the pent up mass of water is
shot down a very steej) incline of rock for 100 feet, where it breaks
into a mass of foam, and plunges into a circular basin below, the
momentum acquired during the first part of the fall being sutHcient to
carry it well out from the perpendicular wall of rock at the bottom
leaving almost a free passage between the foot of the cliff and the
falling water. The tot il fall from the crest of the incline to the basin
below is 302 feet. The Indians believe that the space between the
f.illing water and the rocky wall is occupied by the spirits of two
maidens who were accidentally carried over the falls, and who now pass
their time in dressing and preparing deer skins. On this account, or
more probably because of the feelings of awe inspired by the grandeur
of the surroundings and the enormous posver displayed in this rush of
waters, those who hunt in the vicinity cannot be induced tr visit the
falls or the canon below.

The shape and character of this fall resembles closely, though on a Cliainctcr nf
gigantic scale that of a sina.l stream flowing down a V-shaped trough, *" '
inclined at a high angle, ana issuing freely from its lower end. The
basin into which the river precipitates itself, is nearly circular and
about 200 yards in diameter. It is surrounded on all sides by nearly
perpendicular rocky wal's 500 feet high, except at the narrow cut at the
head of the falls, and where the river issues from the basin. The sur.
face of the basin is violently agitated by the rush of water from above,
and its huge lumpy waves break high up the rocky walls. The falls are
best seen from the top of the south wall, directly opposite, but the
dense columns of vapour that rise out of the basin often interfere with
the view, and give a blurred, fogged appearance to photographs taken
from that side. The noise of the fall has a stunning effect, and,
although deadened because of its inclosed situation, can be heard for
more than ten miles away, as a deep, booming sound. The cloud of
mist is also visible from any eminence within a radius of twenty miles.

The river leaves the basin by a narrow canon at right-angles to the i^fxlwoin
falls. It flows eastward about a third of a mile, and then bends Cafion.
sharply to the south-west for a half mile, next to the east for a
like distance, followed by another south-west bend of similar length.

'l

-

142 L LABIIADOK I'ENINHULA.

In this manner it zigzags until it finally ends in the main viiUoy of

the rivor.

,

From the falls to the mou'h of the cufion the distance in ii straight
line is not above four miles, but by the river it is over twice as far.
This cttfion is cut Jown into s )li(l gneiss, granite and givl)l)ro. Its
zigzag course conforms with the direction of two seta of fracture,
or cleavage-planes in the rocks, which appi ar to have caused lines of
weakness and aided the eroding action of the water. Except on the
inner sides of the bend, where there is a sloping wall of boulders, the
walls are nearly perpendicular. At the top, the width rarely exceeils
one hundred yards ; while at the bottom the river is seldom over one
hundred feet wide, and often measures less than half that width. The
fall of the river from the basin to the mouth of the canon is '2G0 feet,
and, as this is accomplished without any heavy drops, the magnitude
and grandeur of the rush of v/ater at the bottom of the gorge may be
imagined.

The caiion is out sharply into the surface of the table-land without
any appreciable dip of the ground towards it, and there is so little
indication of its presence from above, that the gorge is seen only
within a few yards of its edge ; and its walls are so steep, and the
bushes along the top so thick, that in most places it is necessary to
hold on to an overhanging tree and lean far out in order to see the
narrow white line of broken foaming water that rushes along 500 feet
below. As the country slopes gently towards the main valley, the
cafion does not deepen with the descent of the river in it, and the walls
are everywhere from 500 to 600 feet high, varying with the undulating
surface of the table-land.

There is little doubt that the caSon is a valley of erosion in an
Tinfinished state of formation, and probably previous to the glacial
period was the ^'alley of a much smaller stream than the one at present
flowing through it. At that time the main stream in all likelihood fol-
lowed the main valley. There is no evidence that the valley has been
cut back, or otherwise eroded since the close of the glacial period,
beyond the removal of the drift, which then filled it nearly to the top,
as patches of drift still remain on the inner sides of the sharp bends.
From the above facts some idea can be had of the great length of time
required for the erosion of the main valley of the river, from the falls
to the mouth of Hamilton Inlet, which is really a submerged portion
of this river-valley.

John McLean. John McLean, of the TT^udson's Bay Company, as before stated, was
the first white man to see the fall. In 1839, while on a journey over-

t)riein of
Botiwoin
Oaflon.

•]

HAMILTON KIVKR.

143 L

land from UiiKiva Hay to Hamilton Inlot, lie dnHcended tlio liamilton
Iliver, viHitiii^ tlio fall in jiasxiii^, and lie Iiiih ^iven a short deHcription
of it in liJH Itook.* Tlin fallH are known to the Indian.s and inhabitants
of the Labrador couut as the (irand FallH, but an a reoo^'nition of the
discoverer, as well as the indefinite cliaraeter of the above name, it is
now projioscd to call them the Grand or McLean Fall*.

The caildii below the falls was first discovered and partly traced by
Messrs. Cary and Colo in tlie HUinmer of IS'Jl, and was named by them
Bodwoin Cafion. Messrs. Hryant and Kenason also visited the fall
in 1891, arriving there a few days later than the first party. Ainon^
others of the Hudson's Hay Company otHcers who have seen the fall,
may be mentioned a Mr. Mcl'herson, wiio visited them short'y after
their discovery by McLean, Pere Itabel, O.M.I., a missionary who
spent two or three seasons livinj^ with the Indians about the head-
waters of the Hamilton Itiver about 1870, has also given the writer
a most graphic account of his visit to the fall at that time.

The portage-route past the full and rapids, leaves the main valley on I'ottJiKi' nmte
the north side at the foot of the rapids fifteen miles l)elow the mouth \,'''","'"'' '■"'""'
of the cafion. The road rises 700 feet in a quarter of a mile as it
ascends the steep wall of the valley by a narrow cut beside a small
stream. It then passes over undulating wooded country, rising slowly
for two miles, to a small lake that lies north-west of the lower end of
the portage. Crossing the eastern end of the lake, the route turns
northward and passes over four portages of 1000, 200, 200, 300 yards
long respectively, that connect as many small lakes or ponds. The last
portage ends near the middle of Island Lake, which is about three miles
long and a mile wide, m ith its longest axis running almost east-and-
west. This lake discharges from its east end into another large lake
that emptie into the Portage Iliver. Crossinfr to the r orth side of
Island Lake, two short portages, with a small swampy lake between,
lead into another lake about t'.vo miles and a half long, which also dis-
chargeo into the Portage Iliver. The route now changes to west-north-
west, and continues in that direction until it reaches the lake-expansion
of the river above the falls. From the western end of the last lake a
mile portage through a swamp leads to a narrow lake one mile long,
with another mile portage from its uest end into a similar narrow lake.
The next portage is slightly shorter, and crosses a small watershed,
passing close to the foot of a high hill on the south side called Lookout
Mountain ; it ends in a long narrow bay at the east end of Lookout Lookout
Lake, the largest body of water along the route. This lake is followed ^i"""**'"-
seven miles, to its western end, where a small river enters. The

* Twenty-five years in the Hudson's Bay Territory. Vol. II., p. 75.

144 L

I.MIHAItOlt PKMNHUI.A.

Coiuitv.viilK

Liicikinit

.Mdiiiitnin.

Trees.

^rciiteNt hreivdth iienr the cast oiul is Ibhh tliiin two iiiiluH. The hiko is
shivlldw iind tl(»ttt«l with dimll rooky iMliitxIs. It disi liurK"'!* liy the
little river that falls into tho main valloy tivo iiiihw ln-low tiio oailon^
and which, as already in> utionud, t'orniH a diHclit^rgu of the main river
durinji periods of hiyh wa» ir.

The inlet is followed throi di a number of lake oxpansions for five
niiloH, with three short porta^v s j)ast rapids and a final one of a half
milt! that leads to the head of a deep bay of tho main river.

FiCjokout ^fountain is a lonj; round hill of >{abi)ro, that rises lOO feet
It above Lookout fjako. Its summit and sides have been burnt over,
and from its top a good view of the surroundin;^ country may be ob-
tained. The surface of the tabh^land is broken l>y lony rocky hills,
connected by low ridges of drift, t(iat run west-nortli-west, or parallel
to the direction of the glacial striie. Metwc^en thc! ridges thei'e are
wid(5 valloy.s filled by long irregular lakes or swamps. Southward
from the top of Lookout Mountain, the country is seen sloping towards
the river-valley, and it is much mort; broken and rug;, ed than in other
directions. One sharp rugged hill rises well above the rest, and is
probably the Mount Hyde of the IJodwoin Expedition.

The position of tho river-valley here is well marked, the country
sloping towards it on both sides. Beyond tho valley, the country appears
to be somewhat higher than on tho north aide. Ranges of burnt hill.s
are seen stretching away to the south-west, and bounding the hori/on
in that direction. Wentward, the position of the Grand Kails is
marked by the column of mist that rises high over it. No other
feature marks the presence of the caiion, and gently undulating hills
extend as far as can be .seen. To the north-west, the country is very
similar, and in tins distance lake-expansions of the river apjjear.
North and north-eastward, the ridges of hills are seen running in
regular lines with a higher range bounding the sky-lino about
twenty miles away. Where anj' depression occurs in the ridges, a
shining patch of water marks the position of a lake, in the valleys
beyond. Ix)oking south-east, or parallel to the ridges, a perfect net-
work of small island-dotted lakes are seen, filling each valley, and
separated from one another only by low ridges of drift. In the
distance are a number of high rounded hills near the discharge of the
Portage River.

Over half of the surrounding country has been stripped bare by
frequent fires. In the swamps and around the shores of the lakes
where the trees are unburnt, black spruce and larch of small size
grow thickly together. On the sides of the hills these trees are more

L'PPr.U HAMILTON IIIVKH.

14.') r.

Htuntcd, iiiid are sopiinited by opoii ^liKle-i. NVluntf the liillsidnH hiivo
l)«!ini huriit yciirH ago, tlioy iir« covorfHi with ii taitgli'd mivx.s of willows
iind (ilders, wliilo tlio tops ure coatwl with white iiiomh and semi arctic
HJunib-t and IxM'i'ies. Only on the i^ink-t of thn river ahoiit tint fallN
were trees lar>{e enough for connnenial |nirposcH soon. Surroundinj^
the basin, white spruce seventy feet high ami two feet in diameter
at the base, are eoninion, along with large-Mize<l black spruce, balsam tip
and white birch. Thn moisture from the constant column of spray,
as well as the warmth from the (»|icn water, may acccjunt foi' the bt^ttcr
growth of the trees in the neighbourluM"!. Along the river banks and
on the islands above the falls, the trees are larger, and more varied
than al)OUt the lakes of the portage -route, fair-si/.eil white and black
spruce, balsam Hr, larch and white birch growing freely.

Upper Ifnmilloii Jiivr.

Above the Grand Falls, the character of the river changes com- rimrnctor of
pletoly ; it no longer flows in a distinct valley cut deep into the sur |f|\,JJ|i[y,^
rounding country, but nearly on a level with the surface of the table- Kiver.
land, spreading out so as to fill the valleys between the long, low
ridges of hills that are arranged in echelon all over the country. The
river in pas.sing around the ridges is often broken into sevei'al
channels by large islands formed by separate ridges, and in other
places, where there are wifle valleys between the hills, it fills long,
shallow lakes, with deep bays, and often studded with islands. The
river is now so divided into channels and .so diversified with i.sland-
covered lakes, that without a guide it is almost impossible to follow
its main channel, and much time is lo.st tracing its course through the
lakes, which often have several channels discharging into, as well as
out of them. The current instead of flowing regularly, now alternates
between short rapids and long lake stretches.

The banks are often low, and covered with a dense growth of small
willows and alders, that form a wide fringe between the water and
the conifers of the higher ground behind. In other places, generally
at rapids, the stream has cut a channel into the sandy drift that form.s
the low ridges on one or both sides. The shores of the lakes are very
often low, with an interval of flat land between the water and the
hills behind. These low shores and tho.se of the islands are generally
thickly strewn with boulders, piled up in ridges by the expansion and
drift of the ice in the spring. The general direction of the I'iver from
the Grand Falls to Lake Petitsikapau, more than 100 miles above, is

10

146 L

LAUUADOR PENINSULA.

Post-fflacial
chaniielH.

Jacopie Lake,

nearly west-north-west, or parallel to the direction of the glacial striie,
and t'nat of the ridges of drift. All these features give to the upper
portion of the river an aspect of newness, and indicate that its present
course and conditions have been determined by the post-glacial con-
figuration of the table-land, in marked contrast to the ancient appear-
ance of the deep, rock-walled valley of erosion below the carton in which
the river must have flowed for ages, slowly abrading the hard gneisses
and granites and carrying away the results of atmospheric decay
brought down from its sides by the rains and small tributary streams.
The first expansion of the river above the portage is called Jacopie
Lake. It is seven miles long and about two wide, with two deep
bays on the east side, and is surrounded by low, rounded, rocky hills,
totally burnt over on the east side, and partly so on the west. A
chain of low islands of drift extends along the east side, and almost
closes off the bays from the main body of the lake. In a few places,
bosses of rock are seen rising from beneath the drift of the islands.
At the head of the lake, the current is (juitc strong in the main
channel, with a heavy rapid at the inlet, in order to avoid which, when
the water is high, a small channel behind a long narrow i.sland is fol-
lowed by canoes. There are two short portages here past small chutes.
Above the lake, is a stretcli of eight miles whei-e the river
flows swiftly and is broken by two heavy shallow rapids filled with
large boulders. The banks are generally low, and are cut out of drift,
the channel averaging half a mile across. Numerous islands divide the
stream into different channels, especially towards the upper end, where
the river brotadens out into the next lake-expansion. This is called
Flour Lake, and it is ten miles long and apparently about two mile.-- wide,
with deep bays running off on both sides. Its surface is so broken by
islands, many of them small and rocky, that it is impossible to de-
termine the shore-line d the lake by passing up its middle. There
is distinct evidence of current everywhere, and thij grows stronger iis
the head of the expansion is approached. At the upper end the river
splits into two nearly equal channels, that do not again join until
Sandgirt Lake is reached, fifteen miles above. The n^rth channel is
very rapid, and soon leads into Lobstick Lake, a large and long body
of water on the route to Lake Michikamau, described in the part of
Channel from the report referring to that lake. From Lobstick Lake, a stretch of
five miles of river leads into Sandgirt Lake, where the streams again
unite.

The south channel, leading out' of Flour Lake, is the ordinary canoe
route. The distance by this channel between Flour and Sandgirt
lakes is fifteen miles. The stream varies from 100 yards to over a

Flour Lake.

Lol)Hti(.k
Lake,

■]

UPPER HAMILTON RIVER.

147 L

mile in width, >i.'id is obstructed by numerous islands. The surround-
ing country is J jw and rolling, with long ridges of drift and little rock.
The trees are small and are principally black spruce and larch, with
white spruce and bp.'isana fn along shore, and white birch on the hill-
sides. The curi-ent is always strong, and it is broken by seven short
heavy rapids, where the stream narrows and is obstructed b" islands.
The river-bed r.t these rapids is composed of large, rounded boulders.

Five miles above Flour Lake, the south channel again divides, and
the canoe route continues to follow the southern branch, which flows
out of a deer> bay in the south-east corner of Sandgirt Lake, the other
channel flowing out of the next bay a few miles to the northward.

Lake Kanikauwinikau or Sandgirt Lake, is au irregular-shaped,
shallow body of water, with many islands of drift and with
sandy or boulder-strewn shores. It is twelve miles long from the
southern outlet to the mouth of the Ashuanipi Branch, on its rorth-
west side, where two deep bays continue on several miles f-rcher to
the westward, one on each side of the river, and divided from it by
wide low points, of drift. From the mouth of the Attikonak Branch,
on the south-west side, to the northern ou.let, the distance is eight
miles. Beside, the two bays on the west side already mentioned,
there are two others, one to the south and the other to the north ;
these are onl)' a few miles deep, with small streams flowing in at their
heads from wide-spreading series of lakes. The country surrounding
the lake is sr mewhat higher than that along the river below, especially
on its soutii side, where a ridge of rocky hills extends from the
■east to the snores of the Attikonak Branch. Some twenty miles
westward, a wide range of hills is seen rising with barren sides over
800 feet above the general level, and :t continues in a north-western
direction. The outlines of these hills are sharp and rugged, ';uite unlike
those of the hills of the Archwan area already passed through. Only
their lower slopes are wooded, and in the month of August large
masses of ice and snow remained in protected gullies on their north-
ern slopes. The name of ice Mountains was given to these hills.
To the north-west, rounded hills from 200 to 500 feet high are seen,
separated by wide valleys containing the bays on that side of the
lake. To tne north and north-east, the country is undulating and
lower, with higher, rounded ridges bounding the horizon. To the
east, only low ridges of drift break the general level.

Sandgirt Lake is an important gathering place for the Indians of
the interior, on account of the number of routes that centre here.
The Hamilton River divides into two branches, the larger or Ashua-
nipi Branch flowing in from the north-west and the Attikonak Bra.nch

riandgirt
Lake.

Gathering

i)lace of
jidiaiiK.

148 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

from the south. The main route from the Hamilton River to Lake
Michikamau also ends here. The Indians who trade on the lower
St. Lawrence and hunt anywiiere in this vicinioy, always congregate
here in the spring, and descend to the coast in company, either by the
Romaine or Moisie River.

Returning in the autumn, they travel together to this lake, where
they separate into small parties for their winter hunts. The standing
poles of their wigwams, scattered everywhere along the shores and on
the islands of the luke, show that several families camp here.

On account of its favourable situation, a cache was made on an
island in the lake, to store the surplus provisions and outfit, and from
here, with lightened canoes, the Ashuanipi Branch was first explored,
after which a trip was made to and around Lake Michikamau, before
Sandgirt Lake was finally left by the Attikonak Branch.

Ashimnipi
River,

Ice Moun-
taiuH.

Increasii in
size of trees.

Ashuanijn Branch.

The Ashuanipi Branch, as before stated, flows into the lake on :ls
west side. Its course for thirty miles above, to Birch Lake, is nearly
north-west. For five miles above ?_ andgirt Lake, the river flows through
a flat, well-wooded country, and then passes close along the southern
base of a sharp, rocky hill 300 feet high. This has been burnt over,
giving an unobstructevl view f oni its summit. The bay of the lake
to the northward corafs close to the base of the hill, and extends
some miles westward of it, where the continuation of the valley
is filled with a large treeless swamp. South-west of the river, a
network of large lakes occupies over half of the area between the
river and the Ice Mountains, some ten miles distant. From this hill
to a small lake-expansion four miles above, the river varies from 100
to 500 yards iu width, with sandy banks from ten to sixty feet high,
cut out of the roughly parallel ridges of indistinctly stratified drift,
between -.vhich it flows with a swift current. The lake-expansion is
about two miles wide and over three miles long ; it is (Juite shallow^
with low, willow-clad banks.

A stretch of five miles of s>vift water, terminating above in a short
rapid, separates the last from Ihe next lake- expansion. A number of
high islands of drift obstruct the channel, and the banks are again
high and irregular. Occasional' white spruce trees are met with along
the river bottom, up to fifteen inches in diameter, along with small
black spruce, larch, balsam fir, white birch, and a few clumps of
small balsam poplar.

I

•]

ASHUAVIPI BRANCH.

149 L

The next lake-expansion is eight miles long; its lower half is
crowded with low islands, covered with willows ; the shores are also
low, with a wide fringe of willows and alders between the water and
the trees behind. There is a long ridge on the north side, culminating
in a rocky hill 300 feet high at its west end.

The increase in the size of the trees about this lake is very marked,
and is probably due to the change in quality of the soil, caused by
the disintegration of the Cambrian rocks, which here underlie the sur-
face deposits and form a very large percentage of the drift.

White spruce thirty inches in diameter at the base and forty feet
hi'.'h is not uncommon nlong the shore?, black spruce is often twenty-
four inches in diameter at the base, but rapidly lessens above, so that
few exceed eigiiteen inches six feet from the ground. Balsam fir is
abundant, but not very larg? White birch is also common, and
grows up to ten or twelve inches in diameter, but is generally crooked
and does not aflFord good bark for canoe-building. Small clumps of
balsam poplar are met with frequently with trees six inches in diam-
eter, but crooked and straggling like the birch.

At the head of the lake-expiinsion, an island seven miles long divides
the river inso two channels, with the greater part of river flowing in
the northern one. The island is formed by a high ridge of drift into
which the river has cut deeply hi many places, giving sections of from
twenty to sixty feet, and showing that the material is almost wholly
sand, with evidence of bedding. In places the banks are cut int/^
small terraces up to a height of sixty feet, in one place to the number
of eight.

The north channel varies from 200 to 300 yards in width, is dotted
with small islands of drift, and has a swift current with strong eddies
behind .sharp boulder-strewn points. All these eddies swarm with large
brook trout from three to six pounds in weight. Five miles up, the Birch Lake,
channel widens out and is split by a number of large low islands as
Birch Lake is entered.

The shape and size of this lake are well seen from the summit of a
sharp rocky ridge that extends for two miles along its south side near
its western end. This ridge is very similar to others that now run
south-east and north-west, parallel to one another, with wide valleys
between them. The hill consists of sti-atifierl Cambrian rocks, highly character of

tilted, and has cliff-faces on both sides with intervals covered with ?;."",'''}' »'>"«*

mi . . . Jiircli Lake,

drift resting on the steep slopes. The summit of the ridge is irregu-
lar and narrow, so that almost anywhere the foot of the hill can be
seen on both sides from the top. The sides, where unburnt, are cov-
ered with large white spruce in open glares to within a hundred feet

150 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Cambrinn
ridges.

of the top, where they give place to a thick tangle of willow?! and
alders. On the top the willows are smaller, less matted, and do not
interfere greatly with travel. The higher points are only covered with
small shrubs, including the cranberry (Vaccinium Vitis-Idd'a) that
grows in great profusion. The highest point of the ridge is about 350
feet above the water.

Birch Lake is ten miles long from the northern outlet to the mouth
of its southern inlet, and is less than five miles across in its widest
part. Long ridges of drift form deep bays at both ends. The large
island already referred to divides the eastern end into two bays, while
a long string of islands separates oflF another portion of the lake on the
north. The western end is also deeply indented by three narrow
bays that develope into channels of the river at their heads, and thus
form two large islands that extend to the next lake to the north-west.

The north side of Birch Lake is bounded by a sharp ridge extending
the whole length of that side. Its height varies from 300 to 400 feet >
its top and the greater part of its south side are treeless, the
lower parts having been burnt over many years ago, and the conifers
have since given place to willows and alders. Fires have devastated
much of the country surrounding the lake, and, as the trees once
destroyed appear to grow again very slowly, large areas have a barren,
desolate appearance ; they are covered with small bushes and shrubs,
and in many places only with white reindeer moss. This moss, or
rather lichen, covers the ground everywhere, even in the thickest
woods, and, except in wet weather, is much more agreeable under foot
than the tangled masses of Kalmia and Labrador tea met with through-
out the country to the southward. On the islands and shores where
the forest is unburnt the trees are very similar in size to those last
described. To the south of the ridge there is a wide valley
stretching far away to the south and south-west, broken only by low
ridges of drift and streaked everywhere with water — parts of large
irregular lakes — ^thu view from the ridge giving an impression that
over one half of the surface in those directions is covered with water.

The southern inlet of Birch Lake appears to be the largest ; it varies
from 100 yards to nearly a mile in width, and is greatly obstructed
by low, sandy islands, with shale beneath. The channels are shallow,
and the current strong, with several small rapids, especially along the
upper part, the last a heavy one 200 yards long, where the river
flows out of Dyke Lake. There are twelve miles of river between the
lakes, and several small streams enter by deep bays on both sides. At
the foot of the upper rapid two channels separated by two long islands
join as the river issues from Dyke Lake.

J

A8HUANIPI BRANCH.

151 h

' [

J ,

The shores along the river are low and well wooded, and the general
flatness of the surrounding country is broken by a few short rocky
ridges of irregular outline on both sides.

Entering Dyke Lake by the n ^ht-hand channel, a bay about one OykeLaka
mile wide and four miles long is ascended to the end of the large
island that extends from Birch Lake. The bay is walled in between
steep rocky ridges that rise from 300 to 500 feet above the surface.
The ridge on the north side terminates abruptly in a sharp pointed hill
490 feet high and cut transversely to the ridge by a great fault, and
on this account called Fault Hill. The southern ridge is wooded, the
northern one is mostly burnt. The lower flanks of Fault Hill are
covered with groves of white and blcck spruce for 300 feet up ; above
this, only willows and alders grow to near tht; summit, where moss
alone partly covers the surface. The trees, as the river is ascended,
again become small, and, although large white spruce trees are met with
on the lower flanks of the hills, they are stunted in height, and thick
branches grow close to the ground, forming great knots in the trunk
and rendering the wood practically valueless. Poplar is not seen
above Birch Lake.

The only way in which an idea of the extent and shape of these Country about
irregular lakes along the river can be obtained, is by climbing the
hills. For this reason Fault Hill was ascended, and from its summit
Dyke Lake was seen stretching away far to the north west. The
southern channel extends into a deep bay behind two large islands on
the south side. These islands are separated by a narrow channel a
short distance above Fault Hill, and from there the upper island con-
tinues five miles with a channel nearly half a mile wide, dividing it
from a point of the mainland. Looking backwards, the two northern
channels, as well as the one ascended, can be traced to Birch Lake-
They are all dotted with islands, and the darker water in several
places indicates short stretches of rapids.

The bay on the north side of Fault Hill, is much deeper and wider
than that on the south side, and extends seven miles eastward.
Its surface is covered with numerous islands, very irregular in shape^
and apparently representing ridges of drift, the lower portions of
which are submerged. Abreast of Fault Hill, the lake is nearly
twelve miles wide, but no idea of its size can be obtained on its sur-
face owing to the number of islands. Westward, the lake gradually
narrows, and two large islands almost separate the northern side from
the main body. Eight miles further up, the large islands terminate,
and the lake narrows to about two miles.

152 L

LA.IRADOR PENINSULA.

]

Entrance to
Lake Petit-
Eikapau.

Lake Petit-

ftU.

The country about this lake is much rou>;her than any previously
passed through and the north side of the lake is boui d°d by a con-
tinuous ridge that rises from 300 to 500 feet. The larger i-^'ands are
high and rocky, and cons'sts of broken ridges. Along i,he south
shore, there is an interval of low land extending to within a short
distance west of Fault Hill, where a wide ridge commences and extends
westward several miles. This is probably one of the highest points in
this region ; the main hill rises far above the surrounding ridges and the
upper half appears quite barren.

The lower land to the south is covered with large lakes, and
the horizon is bounded by a long, unbroken ridge. From the narrows
the lake continues nortii-west for nine miles to the head of the north
bay, were a short, deep, rocky narrow about two hundred yards wide
divides it from Lake Petitsikapau. A high rocky ridge bounds the
north side of the lake along this part, with an interval of swamp be-
tween it and the water, terminating in a low muddy shore. The high
land on the south side ends about three miles up, and is replaced by
a flat swamp, thickly covered with black spruce and larch. The trees,
on the slopes of the northern ridge are larger, and many stout, knottv'd
white spruce are seen on the lower flanks more than two feet in dia-
meter at three feet from the ground. The main river enters with
a short rapid on the south side near the head of the lake. At the
time this place was reached, the water in Lake Petitsikapau was very
high, and a large volume was- passing through the deep outlet, which
was mistaken for the main river. In consequence, a week was spent
carefully examining the western and northern shores of that lake, in
search of a large river flowing into it.

Lake Petitsikapau (or Willow-fringed Lake) is the largest body of
water in this part of the countrj'. It fills a wide, shallow
valley between sharp ridges of rocky hills similar to those already des"
cribed. Minor ridges cut its ends into a number of deep bays and give
to it a very irregular outline. Almost everyv/here, the shores are low
and swam{iy and bordered with willows. The greatest length is
twenty-five miles fiom south-east to north-west, and its widest part
measures eight miles across. The north-west end is divided into four
narrow bays, of which the northern one is the longest. To the south-
ward there are only two bays, the most southern of which is from two
to three miles wide, and extends south-east over ten miles, with only a
narrow neck of land between it and Dyke Lake. The northern end
of the lake is covered with numerous low islands of limestone and shale ;
these islands are generally long and narrow, running pnrallel to the
strike of the rocks. The water betw^een the islands is very ".rllow, and

i

i.:
m

tow.

]

ASHUANIPI BRANCH.

153 L

4

I

in many places difficulty is experienced in finding a passage for light shallow
canoes. The southern portion is comparatively free of islands, and "ater.
those found there consist of drift nnd are somewhat higher than
those of limestone and shale. The whoi j lake is very shallow, and in
its widest part, where islands are absent, it was found not to fxceed
ten feet in depth. Small streams flow into the heads of all the northern
bays, and from the ridges these are seen to drain chains of small
lakes in a wide valley that extends many miles beyond the head of
the lake, where the waters of Hamilton lliver interlock with those of
a branch of the Koksoak River (lowing into Ungava Uay. The
largest stream entering the lake flows through a chain of lakes t<^ ''.^
eastward and empties into the north-east l)ay. A rocky ridge from
200 to 300 feet high and le^s than a half mile wide, extends along
the north shore westward of this stream, and divides Petitsikapau
from a deep narrow bay of Lake Attikamagen or Deer-spear Lake, at Head-waters
the head of the George River, which also empties into Ungava Baj'. 'wiypl"^*^*^
This bay runs north-west some eight miles, and joins the main body
of the lake, whicJi, from the crest of the ridge, is seen stretching away
several miles in that direction ; it then bends eastward, where it dis-
appears behind a high ridge. A deep cut in the horizon-line to the
east shows where the outlet of the lake passes between the hills.

Lake Petitsikapau is on the edge of the barren grounds. The trees
still grow in the valleys and on the lower hillsides, but the upper parts
of the hills are barren. Northward a succession of high, barren ridges
are sem, with an occasional glimpse of a lake, or of a valley wooded with
small spruce and larch trees. Total barrens do not occur in Labrador
until Ungava Uay is reached, as trees always grow in the river-valleys
to the south of it, although the uplands jjeyond Petitsikapau are
•covered only with willows and arctic shrubbery.

For many years the Hudson's Bay Company had a post called Fort i.'„,.t Xa»-
Nascaupee on the second northern lay of Petitsikapau. This post was ca"i*e.
established about the time of McLean's journeys from Ungava to Ham-
ilton Inlet, in or about the yeai- 1841, and it is mentioned by W. H.
A. Davies in an article pul)lishecl in 1843, as having then been lately
established.* This post was cree'ed for trade with the Nascaupee
Indians of the interior, and was (|uite successful until after the second
establishment of Fort Chimo in 1806, when the Indians began to desert
it ; those from the north going to Fort Chimo, while the southern
Indians traded at Mingan or .Seven Islands, on the Gulf of St. Lawrence,
or at Northwest River— all of them preferring to undertake the long

*Truii8. Lit. iiiul Hist. Soc. l^iieliec, vol. IV., part I., p. 74.

Ruiiii
fort.

loi t I.ADUADOU PENIVSULA.

arduous journey to and from tlie coast, where they could obtain better
prices for their furs, and purchase provisions and other necess'.ties at a
much cheaper iiite ihan at the interior post, whtu'e the cost of transport
and maintenance added several hundred per cent to the original cost
of the gocxls. The post was accordingly abandoned above 1873, and
now the only trading posts of the interior are thosj situated at
Nichicun and Mistassini.

)f the Tlif uins of Fort Nascaupee stand in a small clearing, close to the
shoio ot the lake, and only a short distance abov; high-water mark.
Tht! houses were built of (-mall, squared logs, with board roofs. When
visited, llie dwelling-house was in ,<, fair stote of repair, with the window
sashes and some of the glass still in place. The doors and movables
inside had been broken up and used for firewood by Indians ; the roof
was nearly unbroken, and leaked only in a few places. Tiiis building
is about twelve by eighteen feet, and has a low room under the attic
roof above. Adjoining the main building on each side are two
smaller buildings, evidently used for a kitchen and store ; the roofs of
both have fallen in. Traces about twenty yards to the east of these
ruins, probably represent the remains of some outbuilding. About
fifty yards behind, the powder-house covered with earth was seen, with
broken roof and partly filled up with earth. Adjoining this is ■>. s'nall
burying place with a large wooden cross in its centre, but without any
marks on the graves, which are probiibly those of Indians. In the
attic a fragment of " The Albion," of March 7th, 18-iO, was found.
Close to the house were .several pateht'S of rhubarb eighteen inches
high, while a number of introduced plants stil! tinurish in the old
door-yard.

Rivevnlx>vc Vs previously ,=t<T^>d, the main r'. r flow,, into Dyk" Lake, from

^ '' "^ '' the; south, close to its north-wesc end. At its entrance the river
is obstructed by a number o<" small rocky islands and large boulders,
between which the stream descends in a heavy, rhaliow rapid about
300 yards long. The lake above the rapid has the general north-west
and southeast trend, and is si. miles long and two miles wide at its
south end, gradually decreasing to a mile at the othe^' end. Both
sides i.ve high and roc'cy. The river flows into the lake from the south
almost opposite the out'et. At the entrance a 'arge dyke cro.sses the
stream, forming a number of islands with heavy rapids between them ;
above the rapid is a short stretch of s\\ ift curren*^, and a large island
of drift divides it into two equal channels each about 300 yards wide,
v'lere the river falls ^vith shallow rapids for a quarter of a mile from
Astray Lake, immediately above.

4,

•]

A8HUANIPI URANCH.

155 L

t '

1

Astray Lake, so called from our wanderings in search of tlio river, Astray Lake,
follows the general direction of all the lakes of the vicinity, deter-
mined by the course of the rocky ridges. From the head of itfs longest
northern bay to where the river leaves it, the distance is twenty-five
miles, and the south-eastern bay extends some distance beyond. Iii
its widest part it is about four miles across. Two rocky ridges, form-
ing long narrow points, diviile the northern half into three deep narrow
bays ; the southern end, five miles below the outlet, nan. . s to less than
two miles, and passes clo.se to the foot of Red Mountain, the high hill seen
from the top of Fault Hill. Two low ridges of limestoiu extend down
the centre of the wide part of the lake, and form chains of rocky islands.
The ridges on the south side of the lake are low and bi-oken, ami the
shore line on that side shows frequent low cliffs of yellowish white
limestone. Quartz Hill is a sharp hill of white quart/.ite that rises
300 feet above the lake, on the south side, opjxjsite the outlet. This
hill is wooded almost to its sunnnit with white and black spruce trees, but
on the summit they do not grow niore than six inches high. The trees
surrounding the lake are very similar to those seer about Dyke Lake,
except that they are somewhat smaller.

A small branch of the river flows into Astray Lake, twenty-four
miles from its north end, coming in with a short, shallow rapid
from the next lake, culled Marble Lake, which is separated from the
last only by a narrow ridge of limestone. The other channel of the
river flows out of a south bay and joins Astray Lake, a few miles to the
east of the first.

Marble Lake stretches north-westward from the outlet, and for four :\]..„.i,ie i.ak-p
miles is more than three miles wide ; it then contracts to about a
mile, and becoming shallow, soon shows current, and thus changes into
the rivei'. There is a small rapid two miles above, where a ridge of drift-
covered islands extends diagonally out from a long point on the north
.side causing the stream to flow in a narrow channel on the south side.
The shores of the lake are low, and often composed of ledges of white
limestone. The surrounding country is also low, apparently s.vampy,
and well wooded with a thick growth of small spruce and larch.

The river above the narrows continues to flow with a strong current
from the north-west for six miles, in a shallow channel over half a mile
wide, with low swampy shores. ^lany sandy shoals obstruct the chan-
nel, and huge boulders are scattered everywhere.

The course of the stream now changes to south-west, and in the next
six mile.s is broken by heavy rapids, full of large boulders, as it descends
from the next lake above. Flowing in this direction, it crosses the

ir.6 L

LABRADOR PENlNflULA.

Mf-nihi'k
Lak"H.

Middle liikr

stiiko of tlie rock at a riglit-nnglo, and the rapids nro formed by tlie
river j)assing over nearly flat beds of liine.stono. Two miles above the
bend, tliero is a fidi of six feet, where the river drops down over the
edg'' of a tliick ix'd of limestono. TJie channel along this stretch
is \ory irregular in widlii, and is often split )»y large islands. The
ra|pi(N end in a long narrow lake trending north-north-west fioni its
outlet for s(neral miles to where it appears to end against a high range
of hills. The west side of this lake is bounded by a continuous range
of sliaip, barren hills that extends far southward.

Til • river now nearly doubles on its former course, and passes
directly from the south through three* long narrow lakes, called the
.Miniliek I/aki s, conncM'ted by short river stretihes .The lower lake
is til'ieen miles l(jng from its outlet to its head, and it varies
from one to two nilos in breadth. The rocky ridge already re-
ferred to passes close along the wf,st side, with foot-hills of diift in
many places rising directly from the watei'. The country on the east
side is low and swampy, and broken only by small ridges of drift. An
invasion of sandy drift forms two long points extending out from the
west side of the lake, contracting the chaniicl and caus:;"j n 'vide
shallow rapid nearly hnif ll (pile long, at the head of the lake. The
next hike is twenty -three ((riles long and its average breadth is slightly
greater than the last. The surrounding country is .^irnil/ir to that Inst
described, b(!ing flat eastward and having the high, sharp langi- along
the west side. Towards the up|)er (iid, the course of tin* lake and that
of the hills diverge slightly, so that at its head the hills are from three
to five miles distant, and are lower than to the northward. 'I'welve
miles above the outlet of the lake, a large stream flows through a deep
cut in the hills and enters the lake with heavy rapids from the west.
Its volume is about equal to one-thirdof the whole river below.

The nuddle lake is separated from the upper by a stretch of river three
miles long. The stream is half !i mile wide, and the channel is \ery
shallow, wit)) a i' oderate current. The banks on both sides are formed
of drift, and those on the east side are terraced for sixty f(!et above
tlie present level of the lakes. The uppei' lake is ten miles long and
about two miles wide. It is very shallow and filled with islands of
drift, two of which are high, with scarped banks of coarse sand. The
range of hills on the west side is now from five to ten iriiles distant,
and appears to be gradually dying away to the southward. In the
distance, on the east side, a high range is seen, which is probably the
Ice ^Mountains to the south-west of Sandgirt Lake.

The country on both sides of the lake is higher and more brokeii
than previously noted, the ridges of drift beting nioie pronounced.

•1

A8IIUANIPI DKANCII.

157

I

This change in t)ie topogniphy is prulmbly dun to the change in the
underlying rock, tho stratified Cambrian beds giving place to Archiwin
anhistg.

Above the upper lake tlie character of the river changes completely, rimrncttr nf
and resemble tho ^itrotch between Sandgirt and Hirch lakes, becoming |ii",v'."t|'i/^
narrow and rapid, with an irregular channel filled with many small Minilick
islands of drift, and with irregular sandy bank-< out out of ridges of till.
Frequent short rapids, full of boulders, connect longer stretches of
swift, unbroken water for the next twenty-four miles, to where the
exploration ended at a small conical hill close to the east bank. From
the summit of this hill looking southward up the valley, the river
was seen to expand into a small lake a few miles above, and beyond
that to again contract as it winds with short bends, from side to side.
From information subse(|uently obtained from Indians accjuainted with
the part above, it was learned that it flows out of Ashuanipi Lake some AMlmanipi
thi:ty or forty miles south of the farthest point reached, and that its '■'"'<''■
character remains the same to the outlet of that lake, with swifter
water in a narrow, irregular channel, studded with many small islands.
The region t'lrough which it passes is low and broken by rounded hills
and ridges of drift that never rise more than 300 feet above the general
level.

At tho end of the survey the river is seventy -five yards wide with an
average depth of six feet, and the cui'rent is about four miles an hour,
giving a discharge of nearly SOOO cubic feet per second.

Lake Ashunnipi, from descriptions given by the Indians, is situated
close to the watershed dividing the Hamilton liiver from the Moisie
River. It i'< upwards of fifty miles long, very irre^uliir in outline,
with deep bays, and is partlj' covered with many islands, some of which
are very large. It is not a deep lake, but its water u: very clear and
well stocked with fish.

The trees along the river and the ilenihek Lakes are mucli smaller Tries.
than any previou^^ly seen. Black spruce forms ninety per cent of the
whole, with lai'ch next in abundance, and a few balsam and white
birch. Along the lake shoies the trees are very stunted, and all bent
towards the south by the prevailing northerly winds. The stunted
growth of this region is accounted for by the large areas of swamp
land along both shores, where deep sphagnum covers the wet ground>
whic!i below a depth of eighteen inches from the surface is permanently
frozen. The ridge on the west side of the river varies from 300 to 600
feet in height ab >ve the water, and is devoid of trees alx)ve the level
of 200 feet. Much of the lower ground is also treeless, having been

138 I,

L.VIIRADOIt PBNINNULA.

burnt over hy extensivo flri'4 at difforent periods. After such fires
tlie country in covered only by willown und iilderv tor umny years, until
the spruce agiiin reproduces itself.

Route, tv Lake MicMikiitnaii.

T^ilmtit'k
Liikf.

Hivving returned from the upper part of the Ashuanipi River to
Handgirt Lake, an exploration was next made from there t(» and
around Lake Mlchikamau. A description of this portion of the coun-
try is introduceil here, because the other route leads up the Attikonak
Branch to its head, and from there down tlie Honiaino River to the
Gulf of St, Lawrence, and it is thought advisable to complete the
description of the interior before entering upon that of the southern
region.

The route to Michikamau leaves Sandgirt Lake by its northern dis-
charge, which is foui- miles long, over half a mili; wide, and is obstructed
with large islands. Thi^ channels are shallow with low shores, and the
current is strong, terminating in a ijuartrr of a mile of heavy rapids,
where the river empties into Lobstick Lake. This is another large
body of water, divided into deep bays by long low points and large
islands. The surrounding country is nearly flat, and broken only by
small rounded hummocks of rock, that seldom rise over 100 feet above
the general level. There is also a marked ab.sence of the long parallel
ridges of drift, and bare rock shows in almost every elevation, forming
the many small islands scattered over the surface of the lakes. There
are two deep bays that extend away from the inlet of the lake. One
I'uns directly south-east, with its outlet close to Flour Lake,' into which
it discharges by the north channel of the river, as has been already
mentioned. The other bay runs due east about eighteen miles, and is
divided into two portions by two large islands, that extend from the
westward of the inlet to within four miles of the head of this bay.
There is also a great bay stretching in a nortli-west direction from the
dischpTge and ending at the foot of a range of rounded hills some
twenty-tive miles distant, where a small river Hows in, which is used by
the Indians as a canoe-route to the caribou grounds on the George River,
beyond the north end of Lake Michikamau.

The route to Michikamau follows the east bay, passing along the
south shore of the large islands. Four miles from the inlet a narrow
is passed, whore the water between the low, rocky islands and shore is
so shallow that only with difficulty a channel can be found for light
canoes between the boulders, which thickly cover the bottom. At the

I

y

t

I

.1

KOUTK TO I.AKK MICillKAIUAU.

15l> I,

i

niirrow, a Hliglit current in ii[)i)iire»it flowing toward tliii wont. Beyoncl
tliH narrow, the routt; continues u|) tlie hay, piinsing between niiiny
i>ocky iMliinds for ten niilcH, to another iwifow aixtut fifty yimlH wide,
botween tlio ttecond lar);e isiand and a long rocl<y point. Hure, thn Uinml-
current is strong tor 200 yards, wlien tiw lakw again opens out, out 18
covered with sucii a niultitu(h« of small roiky islands that no idea of
its extent can be obtained by passing through it. For ton miles the
route now follows the south shore, passing through narrow channels
lictween the islets. A number ut long, rocky points form deep, narrow
))ays along shore, and complicate the navigation, so that even an Indian
guide is often at fault as to the right dii'(!ction to follow. Two short
heavy rapids on a small stream le.ul upwards into anotluu' island-covered
lake, with even more crooked and narrower channels through which the
route passes to u small bay near the eastern end of the lake, tive miles
from its outlet.

A range of rounded hills from 200 to 400 feet high extends along WuterKlied

the north and east sides of the lake. At the heac' of the small lay, '"''"VI'" .

•" lluiiiiUoii una

there is a gap in the hills al)out half a mile wide, wl' !•.■ at or'.iiiary NurtliN Mt

stages of the water a small stream trickles down from tlie next lake, a

mile beyond, through a scies of little rocky pools filled with boulders,

AVhen the water is high in Lake .Michikamau, which connects with

this small lake, a large stream discharges from it through this valley,

thus connecting the headwaters of the Hamilton River with those

of the Northwest lliver, which flows out of l^ake .Michikamau on its

north side. A portage of a mile and a half is here ordinarily made.

It crosses a rocky hill on the east side of the valley, and then passes

over a high drift plain to near its upper end, where it terminates on the

wide bouldery shore of the upper lake. This lake is very shallow

and full of small rocky islands and points, with its shores and bottom

deeply covered with boulders. It lies in a continuation of the valley,

between low rocky hills. Two miles eastward, a rocky narrbw occurs^

where the water runs in and out, the direction of the flow being

determined by that of the wind. Beyond the narrow, the lake

widens to over two miles and extends a few degrees south of east

for eleven miles. A long low point separates this bay from a similar

one on the north side. The south side is bounded by low, rounded,

rocky hills, and the surface of the lake is strewn with small rocky

islands, with shallow water between them, where large solitary boulders

often rise above the surface. The bay on the north side of the long

point, heads nearly opposite the portage, where a small stream enters

it from the west. Near the mouth of this stream, the Hudson's Hudson's Bay

Bay Company kept a small outpost called Michikamau during the I^'^*^-

160 L

LABKADOR PENINSULA.

time that Fort Nascaupee was occupied. Nothing can be learned about
this outpost from the old Hudson's J3ay Company journals at Rigolet
or Northwest Kiver, beyond the bare facts that a post was main-
tained there for a number of years, and was finally aliandoned from
the same reasons whicli caused Fort Nascaupee to be given up. This
post ^^ iis not visited, but, from the accounts of tne Indians, some of
the buildings have been accidentally burnt, and those remaining are
in about the same state of decay as Fort Nascaupee.

From the head of the lake, the route turns soutli-east for nearly
si.\ miles, following down a small river tliat (lows close along the west
side of a rocky ridge flanked w^ith sandy drift. Tiie channel varies
from 100 to 200 feet in width, and is bounded on the west side by a
long point of sand, broken into narrow islands towards the south. This
point and tlie islands are merely a ridge thrown up by the river,
between it and a large lake to the westward.

The ne-xt change in direction is to due east, where the river flows
first with a strong current between a number of low rocky islands,
and then widening gradually passes, for four miles, between high banks
of drift into Lake Michikamau. The hills, on the west side of the
river are rounded and irregular, varying from 50 to 200 feet, and
covered thickly with boulders. The east side is from 50 to 1 00 feet
high and flat on the top, with traces of terraces from thirty to fifty feet
above the present level of the lake.

Lake Mich Um mn ii .

Laki' Aliclii-
kaiimu.

Fiiii'r Ht'cniTy
than ivlKiiit
MiHtaHHiiii.

Michikamau, or the Great Lake of the Indians, is the largest in
eastern Labrador, being .second only in size to Lake Mistassini. Its
greatest length from soutli-east to north-west is about eighty miles,
and it is twenty-five miles across in its widest part opposite the dis-
charge. The main body of the lake is sixty miles long, with a long,
narrow, unexplored bay extending south-cast more than twenty miles,
from the south-east corner. The widest part of the lake is in the
southern third ; in the northern part of the middle third, a long point,
and a line of large, high islands of eruptive rock, extend far out
from the north east sicie, and narrow the lake to six miles. Between
this point and the north-west end, the average breadth is eight miles.
Islands are numerous along the shore and in tiie southern pait of the
lake but elsewhere it is unobstructed. In comparison with Lake Mis-
tassini, this is a much finer bo«ly of water, and its size appears much
greater, owing to the absence of long points, and chains of islands.

;2

C

tow.

•]

LAKE MirHlKAMAU.

161 L

Lake Michikamau is surrounded by rugged hills which add to the
grandeur of the scenery, in marked contrast to the low monotonous
shores of Mistassini. The water of the lake is remarkably clear and
cold, and according to the Indians, who set lines through the ice in
winter, the depth is very great.

On account of the heavy sea running during the whole time we were Delays caiistd
engaged in exploring the lake, it was impossible to make soundings ^ wiml.
from the small canoes, except behind islands and close to the shore.
The lake being free from islands, any moderate wind raises such a sea
that canoe travel is frequently impossible, find the Indians are often
weeks in passing from the dischargo to the north end, on thoir way to
the caribou grounds.

The lake occupies a deep basin surrounded by chains of rounded
Arclucan hills that rise from 200 to 500 feet above its surface. This
basin is very ancient, and like that of Lake Mi.stassini, must have
existed j)revious to the deposition of the Cambrian rocks which are
now found lying undisturbed in many places around the lake.

The hills surrounding the lake are womled for only about 200 feet C'lmnictci- of

above the water, their tops being covered with white lichens and''"'**'"'"!""'''
' • _ " iiig I'lnintry.

small arctic shrubs. The outer islands and exposed point: are also
treeless, and the tries glowing on the more protected islands and
shores, are small black spruce and larch, with only an occasional
clump of straggling whit's birch on the lower slopes of the hills.
From a high barren hill north of the discharge, the view looking
northward beyond the lake is r'xceedingly desolate, and shows a suc-
cession of low rocky ridges extending to the horizon. Trees grow
only in sm'ill patches in the lake-strewn valleys between, and innu-
merable huge boulders are scattered indiscriminately everywhere.
Northward along the west shore, for seven miles from the
inlet, the shores are low and lioulder-strewn, with many small low
islands of drift strung along in a close fringe. The shore-lino is
irregulai', and small ridges of drift form points behind which long,
narrow bays run off westward. Some of the islands are flattened at
the top, evidently by the acti(!n of water, and there are small terraces
on the scarped sides up to thirty-tivefeet above the present level of the
lake. lieyonil this the shores become highc, with rounded hills of
dark-brown rock rising in small hunnnoi.ks above the drift, and
also forming high rocky islands along .shore. The country behind
is quite rough, rising in irregular hills, from RO to 2rjO feet high, and
culminating in a sharp cone called Petiscapiskau, more than liW feet ivtiHcajnskttu
high, which is visible for many miles along the other shore, and forms H'H-

11

162 L

LABUADOU PENINSULA.

Micliikamats
Lnke.

Country to tlip
li(irtl\ oif
Michikmimu.

an admirable triangulation point. From Petiscapiskau to the north
end of the lake, some six miles, '• shores are low and sandy, with
boulder covered points. The lanu slopes g'sntly up from the water to
an even ridge of drift-covered granite about 300 feet high that extends
north-west far beyond the north end of the lake.

The north shore is low and sandy, with shoal water extending far
out from it. Many boulders of red granite are scattered about, both
in and out of the water, and are sometimes arranged in rows along
the shore, by the expansion of the ice in the spring before the water.*
rise.

A little river enters the north end of the lake, with a small rapid
full of large boulders, where the channel is about fifty yards wide
and too shallow for canoes. This is the discharge of Micliikamats or
Little .Miehikamau Lake, which occupies the northern extension of
tiie valley aid is separated from the main body of the lake only by
a long, narrow interval of drift. This lake is over twenty-five miles
long, and extends north-west to and beyond the ni ■" side of a high
range of hills which is seen in the distance to divide the i; 'n valley.
From the nortli end of Mi<'hikiimats, thre p^i. .ges connectii'-,' narrow
lakes lead to a branch of the (ieorge Jlivei, where the Indians of the
region assemble in September to spear the caribou, which ti.en cross the
river in immense herds in the cour . of their annual migration from
the liii^h barren grounds behind Nain to the wooded region of the
interior, where they pdss the winter.

The east shore of Miehikamau for twenty miles from the north end,
is low, with bouldery points and reefs, and without the fringe of
islands. A sharp rocky ridge 30J feet high runs parallel to the shore,
and about six miles back from it. The interval between the water and
the hills is occupied by small lakes and swamps that lie between low
ridges of drift.

Twen y miles up, the highlands come out on the shore of the lake :
ai, :" '"■ -m there to the outlet, or for the next thirty mile.s, the shores
are high and rocky, with deep water close in, and only a few small
rocky islands along shore. The country behind is exceedingly broken
and rough, with bare hills of dark-brown rock, rising in irregular
sharp boss.-^s from oO to 300 feet above the surface of the lake. Along
the lake southward, the gabbro rock.s, which form the.se broken hills,
are replaced by granite near the discharge, and then the country
becomes more regular, although still very hilly.

From the summit of a barren granite hill 400 feet high, close by,
the discharge or Northwest River is seen to leave the lake be; ween

•J

ATTIKONAK BRANCH.

163 L

J

a number of large, Hat-topped islands of drift about thirty feot high,
that extend outwards from the sliore some four miles, and along it for
six miles. A long, low point of drift, pansiiig into a ridge, separates the
river from the southern part of the lake, and the river is seen
extending eastward through a succession of lake-expansions, until
it passes behind and is hidden by rocky ridges in that direction.
Another clmin of lakes extends northward from the river and passes
close to tlie base of a hif^h range on the horizon. By these lakes a second
route leads to the caribou grounds, which is used by the Indians when
they want to proceed there direct, without the delay usually caused by
adverse winds <m Micliikamau and Michikamats. The river flowing
into the Atlantic near Davis Inlet, heads in the high range to the
north, and a winter-route from the George River to the coast follows
its course closcily. Owing to many rapids and falls, entailing several
long portages, this stream is never used as a canoe-route by the
Indians.

From the discharge to the south-east enc' of the main body of the Southern
lake, some ten miles, the shores are low and sandy, with boulder- "'" "«^x-
covered points and much swampy land behind. There is a deep narrow
bay that extends southeast from this corner, where it passes away
between rounded, rocky ridges, running parallel to its course. Its
entrance is nearly closed by small, low islands ; its upper end
was not explored, but it is .said to be more than twenty-five miles
long, with a small river falling in at its head.

The south end of the lake is shallow and is dotted with manj' small
islands of granite. The shore is very irregular and often rocky, and
the country behind is broken by several ridges from 200 to .300 feet
high. There is another deep bay on the south side, where a couple of
small streams discharge.

The country along the west side is broken by low ridges, with a wide
interval of swampy land along the shore. The coast-line is indented
by deep bays, between wide swampy points, fringed with boulders.
From the soutli end to within five miles of the inlet, iJiere is a wide
fringe of large islands of sandy drift, that rise only a few feet above
the water.

Attikonak Branch.

The northern channel o? the Attikonak Branch flows into Sandgirt Attiku
Lake on its south side. I< is ascended from the lake in an east-south- K'^'"'-
east direction three miles, tc where it is broken by a heavy rapid
uearl a mile long, with the channel about 100 yards wide, choked with
Hi

164 L

LADRADOR PENINSULA.

large boulders. A portage of a iniarter of a mile, across a boulder strewn
point, ends in a small bay of a lake-expansion above the rapid.
From the head of the rapid the river widens t<> nearly a mile, and for
the next three miles Hows from stiuth-soutli -east. IJeyond this course
tiie direction chanyes to north-west, ami continues so for five miles, in
a narrow, irregular channel, obstructed by numerous islands, and
bounded by low, rocky siioies in many places, to whore a small branch
from the base of the Ice .Mountains joins the main stream. A chain
of small lakes is now entered, connected by short lapids. T!io general
cour.se of the route through these lakes and a larger lake ;ibove them
is south-south-east ; the lower lakes are four miles long, while the large
one, called (Jabbro Lake, is seven miles from outlet to inlet, with a
long bay stretching towards the south-east. Another narrow one

OHsokmanimn mile lonij, with a slixht current, joins (}abl)ro and <Jssokmaiiu.in lakes
*"■ The latter is a narrow body of water more than forty miles long, and

lying nearly east-south-east. From its norlhcin outlet it ti-ends
directly south for eight miles, and in this portion varies from two to
four miles in width, being dotted by many small rocky islands, and
surrounded- by low rounded ridges of drift covered rocky hills, with
rock showing below the drit't in many places along the shore. Another
bay stretching away more than twenty miles to th(> north-west now
joins the main body. Like the ib'st it is full of islands, many of
them composed of coarse drift. The south side of this bay is bounded
by a ridge 300 feet high, and at its hejul a small branch falls in, which
drains a number of lakes to the south-westward and forms a canoe-
route to Lake Ashuanipi, on the w,iy to the Moisie River. I'lom
the junction of the two bay.s, the main bod}' of the lake extends
south-east twenty miles, and then .south-south-east foui'teen miles.
Five miles up the first course, the foot of one of two high, rocky, large
islands is reached. This island is six miles, and the other ten miles long,
and they practically divide this portion of the lake in two. The jiart
on the .south side of the islands a\erages two miles across, the northern
channel being .somewhat narrower. ( >n the north side near the head of

Valley River, the upper island a branch called Valley River llows out. This stream
is somewhat laiger than the northern outlet, and constitutes the river
which at present llows down the ll.imilton River valley above its junc-
tion with IJodwoin Canon. According to our guide, after passing
through two lakes, together about twenty miles long and connected by
rapids, it begins to fall lapidly in a succession of low chutes. Aitout
these chutes the valley is still wide, with gently sU)ping walls and not
like the caiion on the main river. The guide had never visited the
river l)elow the chutes, but had heard that tliere was a high fall on it,
some fiftt^en or twenty miles above the ])iace at which the main body

i

..]

ATTIKONAK UllANCH.

165 L

t

of the Hamilton River enters the valley at the mouth of Bodwoin
Caiion.

Besides the large islands already mentioned, there are only a few
small ones, formed of drift, in the southern half of the lake. The water
is clear, but has a brownish tinge and is never very deep. A contin-
uation of the high rid^^e on the west side of the north-west bay runs
on southward along the west shore of the main body, but gradually dies
out towards the southern end. From the lake the land rises slowly
upwards to this ridge, leaving a wide interval of Hat land and low
shores along this portion. On the north-east side the country is lower,
and is only broken by a few rounded rocky ridges that have recently
been burnt ovi r. The t,-ees about the lake are small, and are chit-fly Trees
black spruce ■. ith !arch and balsam fir, but no white spruce. Balsam
poplar and moantain ash are seen growing in small straggling clumps
on several of the low points on the west shore.

The ri\er enters the lake on the west side, some ten miles from its
south end, where it narrows to less than two miles. Its volume is con-
siderably greater than the channel ascended to Ossokmanuan Lake,
being half as large again as the Ashuanipi Branch at the end of il-e
survey, and flows swiftly from the south in a shallow channel from 400
to 1200 yards wide, with low banks and frequent hummocks of gneiss
for eight miles, to where it leaves Lake Panchiamitkats. The country
on both sides of the river is slightly higher than about the lake below,
and much fine drift is seen on the islands and shores arranged in long
parallel ridges from thirty to one hundred feet high, running parallel
to tlu> glacial stria' or a little east of south.

Lake Panchiamitkats is about twelve miles long and averages two
miles in width, with its longer axis running due north-and-south. It
is dotted with a few small islands, and has low drift shoi'es. There is
a prominent rounded hill on the west side just beyond the entrance of
the river, five miles above the outlet. Another hill rises from the east
shore opposite the inlet ; the remainder of the country is covered with
low ridges tiiat run parallel to the lake.

The river above its entrance to this lake, H'avs frcm the west
for a mile and then from the south, and is separated from the southern
end of the lake by a narrow ridge only. It continues from the
south for sixteen miles, to where it flows out of Lake Attikonak. Its
channel is from 200 to 600 yards wide, obstructed by small rocky
islands, while its shores present many rocky points. The current
everywhere is strong, and the stream is frequently broken into short
rapids between the many small rocky islands. Ten miles up, where

I'anchiainit-
kivts Lake.

1G6 L

I.AHHADOR PKMNSUT.A

Liiki- Atti
kuimk.

the rivet passes r>\\ r rocky lecljjes, tliere is a chute of four feet, followed
hy a short heavy rupiil that necessitates a portage. Above the
chute the current is slack and the river nearly half a mile wide, with
' >w sandy shores, to within two miles of the upper lake, where there
ai • two short rapids, the upper of which is wide and very shjillow, as
the river issues from Lake Attikonak. The countiy surroundinj,' this
8tr«!tch of river continues low, with lon>{, rounded ridges from fifty to
one hundred feet high. The timWi'r is similar in kind hut perhaps
slightly larger than the la;t described.

The east s'.iore of Lake Attikonak was followed in a direction a few
degrees eivst of south for thirty-eight mil(!s, to the head of i s south-east
bay. On account of the great number of islands that ever vhere break
its surface, no idea of its --hape or size can be obtained without a com-
plete exploration of its shore-line, which task, owing to the many deep
bays in the lake, woukl have required more time than could Iki given
to it. From a number of long leads seen between the islands, the lake
must be at least twenty miles wide in pl.ices, and, according to our
guide, its sou^I: end is considerably beyond the head of the bay
where the route leaves it. A large stream Hows in at the south end,
which rises in lakes to the south-west of Attikonak, near the head
waters of the Magpie River, Mowing into the St. Lawrence ; and it is
used as an alternative route to and fnmi the coast by the Indians
Large islands, of the interior. Many of the islands in Lake Attikonak are large and
high, one of them rising into a rounded hill of 300 feet, others seem to
be formed wholly of tine sandy drift, with irregular outlines, and
scarped banks up to one hundred feet in height. Very little rock is
seen except in the south-east b'ly : elsewhere the shores are generally
sandy, with low, boulder-strewn points. The water of the lake is clear>
with a brownish colour, and does not appear to be very deep. The
eastern side is bounded by low ridges of drift, with a range of
hilU from 200 to 300 feet high some few nnles behind. At the south
end of the lake, there is a sharp rugged range of hills, extending away
westward, probably more than 400 feet high. The trees continue
to increase slightly in size-, black spruce predominating, but a.s.sociated
with balsam fir, larcli and white birch, the last often occu-ving on the
islands and points ir large clumps with many trees up to ten inches in
diameter. Near the .south end of the lake, two small clumps of
dwarfed aspen were seen, the first noir;,i since the Grand Falls were
passed.

From the outlet, the lake lies due .south for twelve miles and is from
one to three miles wide, with several deep bays running off on both
sides. A large stream falls into a bay on the east side, immediately

t

ROMAINE RIVKR.

167 L

1

t

above the rapid, while another inters from the west three miles farther
south. Al)()ve this the course clianges tu south-south-west, and con-
tinues in that direction througli a labyrintii of isbinds for sixteen miles
tea short narrow leiuling into the south-east bay, which was followed
for twelve miles, to its head. This bay j^raduully narrow ' from two
miles to less than a half mihi at its head, where a small stream Hows
h\ with a short, steej) rapid. " • , ' '^••es and islands of the lower half
of the bay are formed of sand . \d alders, while alonj; the upper
half they are steep and rock wit;- ■ o country behind hij^her and
more rugged with very litUt dsn^, tho bare rock rising everywhere in
small knolls. Here the oL^as b«- ome much smaller and are wholly
black spruce and larch.

.tream last mentioned, a short distance porta^o to

Koiimiiiti

The route passes uptl nl

to a very narrow shallow iakt. at its head. A portage of two miles, i<ivti
over and between a nu:nber of small rocky hills with swamps between
them, joins the last lake with a little stream emptying into the llo-
maine River. The country about the portage has been recently
burnt over, and the standing blackened trunks of the small spruce
give a sort of hairy appearance to the otherwise bare rocky hills, from
which all the vegetable .soil has been removed, and do not add to the
beauty of the sceneiy, which is very rugged and desolate.

Romaine River,

U

It is only a quarter of a mile by the little stream from the end of Ui>i«i;
the portage to the Romaine River. The latter where joined Rivor.
varies from fifty to one hundred yards in width, and for two miles
passes between low banks, broken by rocky knolls. At the end of this
distance there is a short heavy rapid, where the river passes over a
rocky ledge between small island.s. A portage of fifty yards is neces-
sary here. Below this, for six miles to the upper Burnt Lake, the
banks are low and sandy and often overgrown with willows and alders.
The river winds backwards and forwards with a moderate current, and
has formed a delta of low sandy islands where it enters the lake. On
the easo side there is a large lake that is separated from the river
only by a '.arrow low point of sand. This lake ha,s a short discharge
wiiich joir.s the main stream three miles below the rapids. The coun-
try surrounding the river is slightly rolling on the west side, with
rocky hills from 50 to 200 feet high. The water of the river is dark-
brown in colo"'", and carries more suspended matter than the rivers of
the eastern watershed.

168 L

LAimADOK PEN'INSl'LA.

Hen'lwnUT".

Tlif Ituiiit

Cliumctcr (jf
till" river
Ix'ldw Uuiiit
Lakes.

According to tlie j^uiile, iilwut ten mileH b.1k)vo the place at wliicli llie
l)ortaj»P-r(iuto joins it, the |{i>iimiiu' Hiver ihsiu's from a narrow lak»)
nearly twenty miles lonj;, that extends north-eiustward, and is called
Tishinakauiau Lake.

Beyond the head of t.hi.s lake the ilver is very .small, and soon breaks
up into little hranelie.s, the disch.irj,'e< of small lakes near the head-
water.iof the Kli/.ahetli and Minipi hram-hes of the JIamilton l{iver,
and also near the sources of tin; Natashi|iian liiver, that flows southward
into the St. Lawrence. Portage-routcH connect the heads of all these
streams,

rp]>er Burnt Lake is twenty miles Ioml; and varies from one to four
miles in width. From its head, for six miles, its euurse is cast-south-
east, and then changes to souih-south-east to the lower end. Twelve
miles from the upper end, a deep hay extends soutii-west for live
miles. The middle portion ot the lake i-^ for several miles greatly
obstructed by long islands of drift. The country surniuniling the np| er
part is low, with long sloping hills (juite diflerent from the rounded
knolls pri'viously pa.ssed ; for there is a change in the rocks of
which they are comj>o.sed, the formei- being granite, tlie latter gabbro.
Towards the south end, the country beconios liiglu-r and rougher, with
the ridges closer together. Small black spruce and larch predominate,
with some white birch on the islands.

A short rapid at the south end of the lake, joins it with the .second
Burnt Lake, which is four miles long, with a deep bay on the west
side. Another short rapid and a mile of river connects this with the
third Burnt Lake, which contiinies southward for two miles, and then
turns abru]>tly north-west for five miles to another short hi-av}- ripid
that flows into the lowest Burnt Lake, the south shore of which was
followed westward two miles to its outlet. A long bay extends north-
ward several miles, and a portage at its head connects with the south
bay of the upper lake. The country about the lower lakes is <|uite
rough, with sharp ridges of rocky hills rising fron» 200 to 400 feet
directly from the water. The forest about all these lakes has been
devastated by a great fire some ten years ago, and now only small
patches of green woods are .seen in swamps and in spots ulong the
banks.

As it passes out of the last Burnt Lake, the river falls twenty-five feet
In less than a (juarter of a mile, in a heavy rapid, over huge boulders and
a few ledges of rock. For seventeen miles from the lake, to where a
westein branch joins, the general course of the stream is due south.
Half a mile below the first rapid, the river again falls twenty feet in one

%>.

r«

1}

]

IIOMAINK HIVEU.

1GI> L

is

iJ

liumlrcd yards, over nuisseii of huge boulders. From here it winds to

and fro, with a strong current, Ijetween st«>ep bunks of stratified simd

from ti'ii to fifty feet liigii, in a valley from two to four miles wide,

bounded on both hI es by steep roeky hills that rise from -lOO to 500

feet above it. About seven miles above the forks, tlie river is broken

by small rapids at intervals for nearly four miles ; hen? the vallfy is

inueli nairower and the sear|)<'d banks are occasionally loO feet high,

with rock coming out from beneath. The west branch has about half

the volume of the main stream, and enters it with a heavy rapid from

a narrow valley between the hills. The trees are everywhere burnt,

except in a few patches here and there, along the river-banks. 'I'hey

ftre somewhat larger, and white spruce grov/s on the points and islands.

Distinct terraces are seen at intervals, with elevations of 10, '-'0, 50 Tt'i'i-accd drift

and ()0 feet above the present river-level, cut out of stratified .sand

with a large admixture of clay.

Below the forks, the river is from 100 to 300 yards wide, and Hows
swiftly in a shallow channel with a sandy Imttom and steep banks of
the same material from ten to thirty feet hiidi. For eight miles the
general cf)urse is .south-east ; it then turns .south, and Hows in that
direction sixteen miles. At the bend there are on the west side several
sharp, irregular hills of drift which extend one mile to the f<x>t of the
steep rocky hills. One of these hills cut into by the river, shows the
sand and gravel to be false-bedded, and, in other [ilaces along the
river, the liedding of the sands is not hori/.ontal. These hills are thickly
strewn with boulders, which do not appear to Im- .scattered through the
mass, but only over the upper surface, leading to the belief that
the deposition and stratification of the drift took place in ice-water
flowing under the glacier, and that the boulders on the surface were
left there by the ice on its dissolution.

Below the bend, the valley narrows gradually for four miles, to two 01mrnct?rof
chutes, where it is le^s than e. mile across, and is filled with sharp *""«>•
hummocks of drift from 50 to 150 feet high, covered with boulders.
At the upjM'r chute, the river passes along the base of a granite hill
that rises sheer for 500 feet. This fall has a drtipof four feet, followed
inm)ediately by another of six feet, ending in fifty yards of heavy
rapids, where the descent is twenty feet. Fifty yards below is the
second chute, twenty feet high, followed by heavy rapids foi' three
miles. The banks immediatel}' below this chute are fnjm 50 to
100 feet high, and sections show them to be composed of re-arranged
till, with false bedding ; the angle is so high that in places it is impos-
sible to wall along the foot of the clifTs, owing to the displacement and

N-*

170 L

I.AKKADOK I'BNINHt'l.A.

Imrnt iinaf.

|)itticiilt |«ir-
tiiKi'-rimti! to
St. .Iiilm
Kiviir.

Nlippinff of the hiiiiiI along thu hcdtling |iIiiiu-h. IVrniccs u]i tu .sixty
feet riK! nuiiicniUH iilonn tli« sides af tli« valley.

Below the rnpid, for nine inilt*H, to the next hcnd, the current
grndually slackens, until it Mows along with iin oven rate of alxtut
three miles an hour. The channel widens from •>() to '2U0 yards, and
the valley also opens to nearly two miles, with sharp rocky hills
hounding it on hoth sides, thnsc^ to the west presenting high cliH'faces.
The sharp hununocks of till gradually die out, leaving low and almost
tiat stretches to the foot (»f the hill.s on eitln'r side. The country iw
wholly burnt. Tlie next bend is to the south west for ten miles, and
for that clistance the river preserves the samt? character as ahovf, hut
is slightly wider, Ix-ing now about a (juarter of a mile acioss. Six
miles from the bend, a small branch, forty yards wide, comes in from
the west. The old burnt wockIs end near the bend, but a tire of the
present season (18!)4) has passed over all the remaining green wowU
below, and has practiially destroyed all the forest along the river.

The river now turns south for six miles to where the portage-routo
to the St. John Kiver leaves it by a small w ■ 4crn tributary. The chan-
nel along this stretch varies from a (juarter of a mile to half a mile
across ; the river is very shallow and greatly obstructed by large santiy
shoals. The valley is more than two miles wide, and the hills liounding
it ris(! sliarply from COO to 800 feet above it. A snuill liranch joins from
the west two miles below the last bend. Uelow the place at which the
portage-route leaves it, the river Hows south-east for four or tive miles,
in a wide shallow channel that slowly contracts as the current increases,
and tiiuvlly breaks into heavy rapids where the river pas.ses into a nar-
row cut between steep high hills. Nothing is known of the river
for over fifty miles l)elow this point, except that it is (piite impassable
for canoes, probably on account of long rajiids with perpendicular
rocky walls, where portages are impossible. Nothing but the absolute
impossibility of passing up and down this part of the river, would
induce the Indians to make u.se of the present portage-route l>etwecn
the Uoinainc -iid St. John rivers, which is the longest and w(U'st of
those known to the writer any where in northeastern Canada. Careful
in<|uiries from a score of rndians met coming inland, affordeil no
information concerning tlis part of the river, which has never been
descended by any one so far as known.

r'

Tiilmtary nf

till' UllllluiMC

Kivirr.

Portuye-route between the Bimmine and Sf. John Rlvars.

The small branch previously mentioned, was ascended from the
Uomaine half a mile, to a portfige three quarters of a mile long, paat
heavy shallow rapids. The portage passes along the west side, through

IIOfTK HKTWKKN HOMAINK AM) HT. JOHN R1VK*<H.

I L

•ly

burnt wchmIs and over Hftiidy liills that rise fmiii W to 100 feot iilmvo
the rivor on tlio slopes of tli« rocky IiIIIh IxtiindiriK t''" mirrow viilloy.
H«)yotid tills the Htrfiun in followed f(ir ii ({utirtur of a mile to a portiiKO of
th« samo length ; after which it \n aKCuiuiml for half a mile to a
jMutaj^e of one mile, followiHi hy a Rtretch of river one mile long, alwive
whi 'h the Htreain dividen, The valley of tlie south branch is followwl
with a half mile portage, to a Huiall lake two milcH and a half long,
from which a portage nf ii mile imd a half leads over the height-
oMand between the Hoinaine and St. John rivers. The branch, na
will be seen from the alM)ve description, is full of long, shallow rajmls,
and (lows through a narrow valley between steeji rocky hills, from
200 to 30U feet high, frontt^d by lower hillH of samly drift, over which
the portages pass. The hills along the siiuill lake are uomewhat
higher and mort! rugged. The country travelled through is mostly
burnt and the standing trees are small.

Heyond the height-of-land, the route passes for two miles and a half 'rril>utiiii<H(il
through two little lakes connected by a short portage. From the ||'jy,'!|.'" ''"'"'
discharge of the second lake, a portage of three-quarters of a mile
leatls up hill to a small pond, and then down hill across the discharge
of the last lake to the foot of a high fall. Next follows a short
stretch of river, with a three (|uarters of a mile portage past heavy
rapids, closely followed by three short jiortagi's, past chutes. These
[)ortttji^es, though short, are exceedingly biwl, going straight up
and down the rocky walls of a narrow gorge, over great blocks of
anorthosite. The lust ends in a narrow lake hemmed in by rocky
walls that rise sheer from ")00 to HOO feet alnive the water, and often
present, over-hanging clifl-', the sides Ix'ing partly wo(Kled with small
spruce and birch that form a pleasing contrast to the bare rock
elst!W.!iere. In many places great blocks liave l)een detached from
the cliffs and are hea|ied up at their base. A number of small streams
fall perpendicularly over the cliH's.

At its discharge, the river falls sev^'nty left in as many yards,
through a narrow pass partly lilkMl v. iili )',uge lingular blocks. The
portage is along the side of the cliff, .tii'n straight up nh 1 down, over
blocks and through the water, the ^^ 'icle making th > ■ ■ orst po.s,sible
combination of obstacles. Below ihe [lorlage, the river . : followed for
a mile and a half to its junction v.illi a laigei stream from the west.
Just below the last-mentioned jioilajre a large stream falls in from
the east with two chutes over 300 fp* t high. Ix)wec lown, a smaller
stream comes in on the same side with a higher fall, which shows
that the valley is much below the general level of the surrounding
country.

172 I.

I.AIIKADOK I'KNINStJI.A.

Tlio next |Hirta){o Iciivos tlit- livor ii short distanco above tlm wcst-
orii l)raii('li, and in tlirc('(|uart('rH of a inihi ascends o\t>r .'500 feet,
ending just ahovo a liij^li cliiit«i on tlie west hrancli, wliere it falls, down
a narrow f,'orf{«\ to Join tlio otiier hrnntrli liclow. 'I'liis stream is then
as<-ended for four miles, with two short |>()rta>,'es j)ast rapids on tin? ^^'"•y,
Clitr l.;iki. hefori? reaehiiiK ClifV Lake, whii^h is ei^dit miles lon^ and from a half
to ont^ mile wide, 'J'he scenery ahont this lake is very strikinjj. IJoth
sides are fornud of vertical dills, often risinfj sheer from 500 to tiOU
feel, ahovo the water and terminating,', in the hij^lier points, in hare,
rocky knolls, without a particle of soil. In many places ^leat masses
of rock have hroken away, an<l are now )iil(>d up in confused masses
that extend f:i.i' out into the lake. At every depressinn in the walls
of the valley, little streams fall into the lake and are frinj^ed Ity small
trees of spi'uci^ and hirch, which also ;^row alonj^ the edj^es of the l;ike
and in rocky cr(!vices u|> the sides of the clid's.

The small striNim that Hows in nt the head of the lak(! is ascended
for- three miles, through two small lake expansions, to a porta;;e of
one mile ending' in a very small lake at it.s head. The next porl-
n'^i- is two miles and a half Ion;;, and follows a valley hetwcen
lii^jh hills, lirst ascending to the headwaters of thi; stream last fed
lowed and then down anoth"'- small hrook flowing in the opposite
diritction. This porta^je, hesides hein;,' Ion;;, is very rou;;h, Icidin;;
o\'er hroken rock and thiou^li swamps. It cndsina .'<mall laki;, out of
which a little river Cifty feet, wide issues and Hows southward with a
windin;{ course and siron;; current., in a deep valh^y ahout one mile
wiile. Its hanks are low and ;;enerally sandy, and the valley is
'I'lfcH. co\ered with a thi<-k growth of small hiack spruce, larch, lialsam

lir and whi'e hirch, somewhat larger than any previously .-.^een on
the route from the Momaine Hiver, hut still too small to ht> of any
connuercial vjdiie. This little river was desi^'uded for eleven miles to
where it is joine<l hy a snuill westt-rn branch, which was ascended for one
mile, through a shallow lake. 'J'hence a short portage leads to Jinother
very small lake on the- same stream, followed hy still another portage
uf a third of a mil)? into a third small lake at tho head of the stream.

.\ (tortage two-thirds of a mile long next leads up hill to another small
lake, from which a portage of three miles follows (lie stream issuing
from it, and descends (100 feet to the next lake Im>Iow. TIkm'o is
here a general fall in the surface of the country and a change in the
outline of (he hills, as the route passes from (he rugged anor(hosi(e
area, with its high knohlikt; hills, (o (he lower and more rolling
eoun(ry und(>rlain hy gneiss.

;

•1

8T. .lOIIN UIVBIl.

I7;i I

k

The lake at tlie foot of tho iHirtii;;!' is a little over two milos lonir. I'<"tn«<«« to
and its (liacliar^jo is followed four miles and a half, with five portages n'iv,'.,-.' ' " '"
past, shallow rapids. A j)oilaj,'n of a half mile |vasses up fmni the
stniani over a I. ill 'MO i'tjet hif,'h to a lake 100 feet above it. This lake
and its outlet are followed three niiles, with two short porta<,'es on
the way, to the last portiii,'e t«t the St. John Hiver, whirh leaves the
small streant and passes down a steep ^'dly eut out of drift for about
one mile, where il descends 'M\'t feet to the h-vi-l of the St. .John lliver

Tho total nund)er <if piirtaj,'es finm the iJomaine to the St. John
is thirty one, ami their eond)iiiod len;,'lh a;,'j^ref;ates nineteen mih-s and
a half.

.S7. Jo/iii li'irrr.

'{'he St. .Iiilm l>i\i'i-. where the portajic-roule joins it, is about 100
yards wide and pursues a windini^ cour'se in n valley al)out one mile
wide, bounded by steep hills from "JOO to oOO feel. hi;<h.

There is a f,'i-eat. aeciinudat ion of drift in the valley, out of wliieh
the shallow channel of tliesti'cam is culr. The iianks ai'e mostly low
where the river ci'osses the valley, and are hi^;h only at the bends,
where sections from ten to sixty feel dee|) show stratilied sands <»ver-
lyiii^' chiy.

.\ few mil s above the porla;;e, the liver is broken by heavy rapids
ai.d chutes, and is almost impassaiile loi- canoes. I'elow, the <j;radient
fif the \alley is sleep, and the river in co'ise(|Ueiice has a st I'onjj; current,
(•specially at tlu' bends, when- it •,'eneially falls with short rapids
throu;{h narrow channels cut out of the shin;{ly slioals that obstruct it.
Il j;i-pally resembles the rapid tlowin<; streams of the (iaspi' i'eninsida.
i'lijihl ndles below the |iorlai,'e a lar;,'e lii'ani'h joins from the cast,
till' head- waters of which form the various streams of the porla<{e-i'oute
already described. I'elow this liranch tlie channel widens sonunvhat
and conlinui's lo wind from side to side in llu" valley for twenty miles;
the hil's then close in, and tin- river descends a narrow gorj.;e, with ii,
heavy rapid endiuf? in a fall of twenty feet.

The ti s in the valley show a marked improvement both in si/eand

vai'i<(lv. While spruce lifty feet tall and from twelve to eighteen
inches in diameter is |ilentiful, alonj; with lai'^'er black s|)riice, balsam
lir, larch, white birch, bals.im poplar and aspen. The sides of the
valley are more than half burnt.

The portat,'!' }iast the chuld is n arly a ndle lon<{ and pas.s<>s alom; the
almost p(U'p(!ndicular side of the \ alli-y .some .'{00 feet above the stream.
The ascent and descent at both sides is so steep that tlui liuliaiis are

Si. .lojiii
Itiv.r.

Tn

17-t L

LAUKADUR PENINSULA.

Sivliiion
ItruiiL'li.

forced to cut steps out of the soil in order to pass over with lo ids. In
tlie mi'idle it is close to the rou-ky wall, and the road has been
made ay [)lacing logs along narrow parts, which almost overhang the
boiling stream far below.

A mile IhjIow this portag ! the Salmon Branch joins from the west.
It lias a def'p valley like tiie main stream and is considerably
smaller. About a mile below this branch there is a salmon tishing
camp, with a fine largo hou-ie situated on a wiiit^ bank at the mouth of
a small stream, the resort of sportsmen duriiig the summer.

From the chute the general course of the river-valley is almost
south for twenty-tive miles, to the coast. The valley is narrower than
above, and for ten miles does not exceed half a mile, with walls of
anorthiisite rock rising in nearly perpendicular cliH's from .'500 to 000
feet above the water. As the coast is a))pr()aclit'd, the valley w idens
and the hills become lower, so that a short distance; below (JInunbers
liiver, or ten miles from the mouth, the rockj' hills give place to 'nanks
of stratill(;d clay and sand that gradually decrease in height dnwn to
the .sea.

The country surrounding the river has been over threeepiarters
burnt, and the remaining forest is very similar to that ali'eaily des-
cribed.

The river from the chute to its mouth varies from "200 to 100 yards
in width. It is (piiie shallow and has a vi-ry rapid current, with many
short rapids, aa it winds from side to side in ''le valley. The limit of
tide is eight miles and a half above its mouth.

ToxitioiKpf tl
nitiiitli.

}fanl('ii(ignn lilrrr.

The Manicuagan River flows into the St. Lawrence alx ut two
hundred ind forty miles below (.Quebec. Within ten miles of their
mouths, the ^^anicuagan and Outardes rivers are separated only by a
high s .'.1(1 plain, about two miles across. Above and below this place,
their courses diverge, so that their mouths are fifteen miles apart, and
the land between forms a broad peninsula composed of stratified
clay and sand, evidently brought down by the rivers, ['he channels,
thus diverted, instead of passing out into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, hug
the shore for several miles with wide sandy shoals outside. The
Outardes water Hows westward, an ' that of the Manicuagan River
towards the east. Owing to the channels being in shore at.d to their
broadening as they leave the mouths of the rivers, it i impossibhi to
approach within ten miles of either stream with large ve.ssels, while

UAMCUA(MN RIVKIt.

175 L

n

anchorage is dangerous outside on account of insutKcient holding
ground, the Ijottoni ''eiiig sandy.

From the mouth of the Manicuagan l{iver, whore the stream is
ah >ut tliree miles wide and greatly ohstructed with shoals haro at low
water, the course is directly west for four miles, to wliere the rocky
]>oint projecting from the ninth side narrows the strenm to less than
half a mile. Above this, tlie west course continues two miles, with
rocky banks and, towards the upper end, with a nu)ni)er of suuili rocky
islands, between which the river Hows with a rapid current. A sharp
bend to the north now leads to a succession of heavy chutes that
obstruct navigation for the next two miles. The river, while passing
the chute-*, i'UsIh^s through a narrow gorge from 200 to .300 feet wide,
with low rocky walls. The highest direct fall is alxiut .'(0 feat, while
the total descent is 110 feet. The volume of water passing down is Wiiiniiciif
very great, being over half that of the Ottawa at the Chaudirre Falls. ""'''•'•
The portage is divided into two parts, the upper half being only u.sed
♦luring high water ; at other times short portages are made up or down
t!us pirt of the gorge.

A shoi't di.stancc ai)i)\<' the u|)per portage, a roa<l climbs a high
bank of UKKlilietl drift, and leads to the ( >utai',les Hiver, .some three
miles distant. This route is fre()uently useil by the fndians, to avoid
th(( long coast, joui'ney, from the mouth of the .Manicuagan Hiver to
Jtersiniis, where they res.de du.ing the sunnner months.

Above tin; portage the ri\er widens to about TiOO yards, and con-
tinu s from the north for tiv»i miles, after which the valley bends to
the north-east, for a similar distance, to tlu! next portage. Several
long islands of drift, ocmir in the upper half of tlu; stretch between
tli(i ])itrtagt's. The valley is about one mile wide, bounded by rounded,
rocky hills, (500 feet high anil flanked by thick deposits of stratified
clay overlain by sand. These su|)erticial deposits an* terraced at fre-
(pient intervals up t<> an el(H'ati<in of .'5.")0 fet*t above the water-level.
Tim clay deposits do n(jt rise more thai> 100 feet alwve the river and
are liori/.oiitally bedded. The banks and hills are well wooded with 'I'iiiilHT.
large trees of the following sj)ecies, arranged in their order of abund-
ance : — White birch, white spr-uce, aspen, '.)lack spruce, balsam
poplar, b:ilsan\ fir, yellow birch, Itanksian pine, white pine and black
ash. Many of the spruce trees are suthciently large to alTitrd goiKl
commercial timber. The current along this stretch gradually in-
creases from two to four miles per hour as ti\e stream is ascended.

The next portage is about two miles long, and, for the greater part
of its length, pa.sses over a sandy plain ',i'20 feet above the river at its
lower end. iSteep hills of clay and sand are found at either end, and,

176 L

LAIlRAnOR PKXINSrLA.

1^

bein;; constimtly wetted l»y small stremns, arc vcfv (litlicult to ascend
i>v descend with hoavy loads. Tiie 'iviT Ihtc atraiii passes, with heavy
rapids an<l chutes, throujih a low roiky nov^i^ ; the fall is H't') feet.

Above the portage the valley again widens and the next portage is
tliirly nnles fartiier up. Tiie course of the valley for the first nine
miles is due north ; its walls nrr from half a mil<' to one inih^ iijiait,
rising in abrupt rocky cliffs from tiUU to lUUO feel, the river flowing
close to the western wall, with a wide interval of sandy bottom-land
intervening on the east side. Thestrejim varies from a third of a mile
to half a mile in width, and its channel is broken in many plac«'s by
san<ly shoals. The cm rent is even and averages aboui. three miles an
hour.

The valley next bends to the north east for four miles, and again to
the north for six miles, whei'c a large branch called the Toojnustook
Tuoltin^tn.ik orKlbow Itivcr, joins the main stream. This branch comes in through
a deep valley fr(>m the north-east, and takes its risi- in the same
lake out of whii'ti tlie(!od!iout l{i\('r tlows. Along the lower bend of
the stream, the mountains forming the western wall of the valley are
greatly broken and rise in <let.iclie(l roi.i.ded hills more than KJtJO
feet al)Ove the river. One of these mountains, immeiliately at tlie
bend, towers upwards, with ban; rocky walls, directly from the water,
and is named by the Indians the " .Manitou Pulpit.'' .Above the
bend the valley widens to more than two miles, and continues so to the
mouth of the Toolnustook. Wide terraces occupy both sides between
the hills and the water, and are covered with a line growth of trees
sinnlar to tliose nami'd above. The current ipnckens as the fork is
apjii'oached, and there tlows steadily at a rate between three and four
miles an houi', in a shallow, sandy clianm-i. .Miove the forks, the
main valley changi's its direction to nearly nori li west, and for t la;
next twelve miles averages a mile wide, with high rugged hills of
aiiortluxite forming its walls. The river here varies from 200 to .')00
yards in width, and tlows with a very strong current, as it winds from
side to side down the valley. At each bind it reaches the rocky walls,
while f^lsewhere it has high banks cut out of the hcivy dej)osits of
stratified clay and sand, which partly till the \alii'y in the form of
teiraces, of which the highest is loQ feet .above the river.

At the end of this sti-etch a liigh bank of lerraced drift extends
almost across the valley, apparently filling the old river channel and
forcing the stream tlirougli a nurrow rocky goi'ge on tlm east side
where it descends ll.j feci, in a succf^Hsion of live cliutes in about
half a mile. The portage, named the Chosniup Portage, pas.ses ah.ng
the side of the west bank, where the lerraced drift rises 250 feet abi»ve
the water.

flii'siiiii)
l"i)i'tut;i'.

LOW,

•1

MANICrAHAN HIVKK.

17;

For thirtcOM iiiiU's hIidvi', tlio rivi-i' cuiitiruies iiiirniw, crooked luul

)

,.

ift, with t"rt>(|iient .short

(I.«

iili' i>t" dii

k'liirl-

livngerous

pools, in (I Millcy from iv quivrtfr to half iv mile wide, surrtuindtMl by
ini'ijular, nmiidwl hills from 400 to ."lOO fcot hi;.'h. Down fvory
depression l)et\ve»'n the hilN on hotli sides, small streams fall in
heautiful cascades from (he hi;;hor lands surroundinf; the valley
The drift. alon>; the lower half of this slretcli, is not heavy, and nar
row terraces are cut into it up to ahoiit one hundred feet ahove the
present level of the river. As the upper h .'f of the distance is <'|iijiiutir t>f
ascended, the valley widens, and the rocky walls are somewhat lower [."n,".^ "
and more regular. With the increased width of the v.illey the
channel al.so widens to a quarter of a mile and the current slackiMis,
Tlie valley now str.iighte'.is, and for twenty miles runs slightly east of
ni)rlli, widening to nearly two miles, w' n n-gular rocky walls on
either side. The ri\t'r along this portion averages half a mile in
breadth ; it is very shallow, and is broken by a number of low, .sandy
islands and shoals. The current is even and moderate, and the banks
are low, rising in wide terraces to the rocky walls. About six
miles up this stretch a burnt are is entered, which extends up lioth
sitU's of the vallev, le!i\ ill'' oidy .i narrow frin''e of 'oeen woods at
intcM-vals along the river margin. The timber in the valley and on
th'3 hillsides is all of fair si/(>, am! much nf tin- white spruce is of
good (juality and in suilicient tpiantity for prolitable lumbering.
J^lack spruce predominates, folio in decreasing order by white

lart 1. and ilanksiiin pine. The

iitt pine, yellow liircli and black

stretches close to the ("iiesniup

birch, aspen, white spruce, bals:
nortiu'rn limit, in this \ alley.
ash appears to be along the n
Portage.

About half way up the last i
the river on its west side.

libed stretch, a portage-route leaves I'dita'.'i-iDiite
ifter passing over th.> wide, sandy |,','-,l'riVi\'lT.

plain, ascends a gull(>y in tl Inns to a small lake on th)> table-land
some .")00 feet above. Then . I wo or thi'ee other small lakes are
])assed to a larger one, calleil Tetiskouskua, the outlet of which is
d<? cended to the < )utardes Hiver. 'J'his is the route followed by the
Indians who limit along that >iream, in ordiM- t.i avoid the manv
long portages along its lower p.irt.

The valley next again turns more to the eastward, and then
bends to the north for twenty J" lur miles, to the next portage. It
narrows, ami the ii\er becomes ■i.epwith a rapid curri-nt. The lower
part of the valley contains mnch drift, which is in part ten need to
a height, of "JOO feet above the river. Clay is no longer seen ; the
stratified sands extend downward to the water's edge, and are often

I7f< I,

I.AIIIIADOK I'KMNSULA.

KniiK'li

I'uItilK'i'.

Kil<ii'<lnii>ta'

cappoil with tliiii Itciis of tine j;nivel. fn inosl j>liuo.s llie hcilding i»
neiirly liori/oiitnl, Inil in a ft^w iilincs tlic imu'lf "f iH'ddiii^; is con-
8i(i«'nil)iy iiiciiiicd iirid the drift ii|)|faiw to liiivc h-fii, iit least in piirt,
dopiwilcd under or ill crmlNS of tlic ;;|ji( iiT. The walls of tlm viiUi-y
an- still rooky, and vaiy from "lOO to ^00 fci-t, in licinlit. Much of tin-
forest hiLS iM-on ih-stroyod liy (In's at dill'cn'iil times, the latest having
occurred alHuit fiftft-n ycurs uyo. Tlii' oldi-r hunit areas are ;j;rowii
U|> with thirkelsof small white hireli, aspen, hiaek spruie and IJanksdan
pine. On the unlmrnt portions the trees are considerahly smaller than
thfiso already noted, and tiie (luantily of white spruce is much loss,
hiack spruce predominating.

The next portage crosses the neck of a small peninsula, formed
by the main stream and a hrani'h which comes in from the east.
The portage is alMiut hal' a ndio long and pa.sses over a level plain of
sand "Jott fcot alnive the river at its lower end. 'i'he upper end of the
jHirlage comr-s out on the snudi luanch, alioiit fifty feet wide and very
deep, which winds with a sluggish current lietween high .•■andy hanks,
for nearly two miles, to where it joins the niain stream. The river
just Im'Iow passes into a very nai'i'ow, rocky gorge, wheie it (h'.>^cends
17') fi et in less than two miles.

I'Voni the mouth of the small hianch to the next portage, the dis
tance is live miles and the course of the \alley about nufth-we.st.
The \alley is narrow, and the hills on either side rise in almost per-
pendiculai- elifls, directly from the watei, to heights ranging from "lOO
to llJOU feel. .\ little drift is seen, terraced to 100 feet, .ind through
tins deep, narrow xalh^y the rivi'r rushes in a deep channel, with uumv
stretches of broken water.

The next |Mirtage is calieil Kikaskuatagan, and is nearly a mile long.
It starts from a sti-ep, rocky ledge, where, owiny to the constant
heavy swell, unloading is very ilangerous The road li'ads up a narrow
gully tilled with rough broken rock, and ascends almost perpen-
dicul'irly for a hundred feet to a sandy lerraie, which it follows to the
head of the portage, where a steep drift hill is descended. The river
at this place falls alntut twenty I'ei t, with heavy rapids where the
channel is obstructed by nuiiu'rous boulders. I)urinu' high water the
lower end of the portage .■.irinut lie appi'oached, and at such times a
gully inon» than half a unle lowei' down, is used to reach the terrace.
Al)ove this [Ktrtage th- diiection of the valley changes to north-north-
east for ehven miles. I'or the lower six miles the river .iverages 1 00
yards in widtli, and tlows in .i deep channel at the base of the westorn
wall, which hore rises in peipendicular dills from .'500 to 600 feet high,
with nuiiierouN small streams falling in narrow white ribbons of si)rav

I

It

1

tm.

^

ij

r

1

MANICUAOAN RIVRR.

179 I,

into the river. The eastern hilln iire less abrupt and are Hanked by
II ;^(X)d deal iif sandy drift, terraced to one hundred feet al)ove the
river. Along the upper five nules of this course, the valley widens
iind contains much drift ; the grade of the river is here very lieavy
iiiui, as tlio bed widens, it becomes divided into ninnerous cliannels by
low siiiu;{lu bars, over and between whicli the stream rusiies at a rate
of five or six miles an hour, so tiiat it is exceedingly ditlicult to ascend
with loode:! canoes.

The course of the valley next cl-.anges to nortli-M'est and continues
in that direction seven miles. A short distance above the bend, the
walls again approach and, two miles above, are less than a cpiarter of a
mile apart. As the stream is a^^ee^ded, its channel ii.iirows anil
deepens, and it tlowri v ) i.) idly between steep bmks of boulders ur
rock for four miles, to ^.hef<^ t)ie Long Portage leaves it. Al)ove the Limifl'oitagu.
lower end of this portaj^e the stream is still mort> contractetl, and is
walled in by steep rocky cliH's on both side.-, where it is impossible to
enter or leav(! the valley with canoi-s foi- the next three miles. In this
distance the river is interrupted by a number of low chutes, which at
low stages ((f water can be pas.sed with canoes in descoiiding. The
portage leaves the valley on its east side, at the mouth ni n. small
tributary. A sharp ascent of '2")0 feet leads to a terrace of coarse saml
nnd gravel, formed along the Hank of a rocky hill. This terrace is
fiillowcd about one mile, and then a sharp bend to the north carries
till" ri>a<l, ii! the ne.xt half mile, over the shouUler of the hill, to a snuiil
lake "ifiO feet above the river. A short portage leads from this lake
to a slight I v l.irger one, fi'om the north side of which another portage
one mile iinil a half long again Iriuis <1 .wn to the river, after tirst i)assing
(ivi'i- :i tlat tlrift plain between the hills. The trees surrountling the
lakes an' Mostly small black spruce, with a few tir, larch and white
spruce. UfW of which are of commercial value.

AUivr thf l<ong I'ortage, the still i-Dtitracted valley stietches due {->i,„r„,.,,,p ,,f
north f««r three miles, when it changes to north-north-east for eight \""'j'^' "'"'*'"
miles, to the next port^ig"'. The river, along the lower half of the.se Poiiaif.-
distances, is deep, narrow and very swift, with steep banks of rock or
larj«» iKHiUlers. .\long the u|i>per half it alt(M'nates between h>ng
stretches of quiet water, ami short rapids, where heavy banks of
loarsf liiifi piojei f out tiuiii the sides, contracting the channel.

The i>i>rtagp, at the heati of these courses, is about l<Hj yards long,

aiul jiusses a heavy raj)i(l full of large boulders, where the stream falls

ovei' a low ledge of r<H'k. l'"i'om here, to the outlet uf liakt^ Ichima~

nicuagan, six miles alntve, the valley continues in the same direction

Mik

\m L

I.AIIHADnIi l-KMN.slI.A.

iiianiriiiiKiXi.

Trilmtaiii-s.

iis I lie lust course, iiiul '.'nidtially widnis to iil)i>ut mif mile. Tlii' liills
t'ofiiiiiig its sides rise very aiiruiilly tioiii tiUU to lltOU tVct, urul inmost
pliicfs their sides arc bare i<nk, wilii stra>:),'lin<,' spruce aritl Inreli
trees growing here and there in erevices. The river gradually widens,
and after a short i-ai>id, aWout two miles al>;)ve the iioitag*', its
I'urrent slaekens, and it passes iinpc'r('eptil)ly intx> the lake. The
rocky walls are flanked on !)otli siiles « iili .-.ome i|iijiiitity >>{ drit't, cut
into terraces at various lieii,'lils, \ip to j.'iU t'eel above the water, these
terraces being well wooded with sjnuce, aspen and birch. Numerous
larife trees of while spruce grow on the lower terraces, many of thein
more than thirty inches in di.iiiietei' three feet from the ground.

The view at the outlet of Lake Ichimaidcuagan is one of great beauty
and grandeur, the i|uiel water- of the lake contrasting in colour with
the liriglil sandy shores, i)acked by the dark green of the spi'uce and
the lighter-coloured biirhes and aspen, while the rocky walls of the
vali' v rise abruptly on both sides, bold and bare, with ;i fringe ot'
small trees crowning their sunmiits. ( »ut of evtuy di)pres-iion in the
hills above a stream issues, falling in most jilaces directly down t>hit'
rocky walls from ."500 to HOO feet. < )ne stream in particular, on tlh}
east sifle, is of considerable voltnne and has h sheer fall of upwai'ils of
otJU feet. In its descent it dashes against the almost perpendit-ular
wall, and, by the time it reaches the lower levid, is completely Iw^Jten
int<< spray.

Tiike lehimanieiiiigan is the lowei' of flie two gtv<»t hnittcrnl
reservoirs which i ollect the waters of the upper |iortioM <4 'he lioiw-
cuagan River. The lake lie^, in fi deep narrow valley, a omtinuation
of that of the river lower down. The water surface is TtST) f»H*t alwve
.sea-level, and nearly as many feet below the level of the surround-
ing <'ountry. This l^ike was not examined l)y u-. but v»ii.s suiM-ved in
187'_' by .lohn Hiiinell. 1'. L.S.. und was found by him to be sixtv-three
miles long, while its breadth varies from half a utile to twii miles,
giving an average breadth of one mile, the sou>:li»imi half lieing the
narrowei-. The hike is crescent-shaped, so thtu, ■• line drawn from
the two ends runs nearly north-and-.south, whiJiMlllo eonvexitv of the
curve is towards the east. The jiriiu ipal river flowing into the lake,
ent<'rs it on llu; west side, about four miles above- the outlet, ac i forms
the discharge of Lake Miuichalagan, the upper large hike. The other
large streams entering the lake ar.' three in huud)er, but tl^'y do not
compare in volunu- with the last mentioned. Two come in on the east
side : the lower, called (Jabriel Hiver, enters about half wa) up ; the
other, called Wachaogamau Hiver, flows in about ten miles fronj tttf
north end, and is used by the Indians .is a route cro.ssiti" to (!»« |i^

i

t

i

MANICI'Ai;AN bivkr

181 L

I

lb

t

t

i

w.ilvis ot' the St<!. Mti.fj,'taTiti' l{i\er. The lliiid river IIic.vk into the
nnrtli end, and in exreedingly rapid, lu. it dewfiidH i|uiekly t'loin tin-
lahle-laiid to the level »if the lake. It rises Home forty or fifty miles
t>> the nui'tli aiirl iiortli-eaHt, in a ninnher ot' lakes, df wliicli the waters
interlock witli those of tiie main stream on the west, the Ste. MargU'-r-
ite on the cast, and trilmtaries of the Koksoak River on the north.

-V^ slated above, the main stream, tUiwing into l^ake Tehimanieiia- .McimluilitKuii
giin, eomes in from the west ahout four miles from the oiith't, '''*"•
This river, wliieh ecjuals at least three(|Uaiters of the vnlumeof theout-
h't. enters llie lake tinou^h a dee|( nai'riiw i,'oi'>,'e, nearly at rijilil aM;,'les
to the main v/dley, and also cuts almost direetly across the strike
of the rocks. |''or three miles above the lake, the valley is nut over
-OO yards wide and is walled in by rocky hills, which on the north
side rise in perpernlicular elilVs from f<(>0 to lOOO feet ; the south wall
is ei|iii(lly hiifh, but less abrupt, and is about one half wiicxlrd wiili
small sjiiin'C and biich. 'I'lie river has an a\ei'aj;e breadth of une
hunibi'd yards, miiiI iIows s\\iflly in it> deep narrow channel, wliidi is
fi'etiuiMil ly paitly liloikid wiili iiuj,'e masses of an;;ular rock, fallen
fr"in the o\crhani;ini,' clitl's ot the north •-ide. Several small stieams
tund>le in from the hi^di lands on the south side, in .series of beautiful
waterfalls. Aftoi- three miles, tiie \ alley curves j-ently towaiils the
iiurtli till tour miles, wideninj,' ie so doin;.', and ihiis allowin;; for a
nar;ow interval of terraced diift between the river and the Widlsot' the
\a!i'V. The east wall continues abrupt, but farther up the sttcam
it !,'rnt^':dly decreases in lieij^dil, aiid 'he scenery lo-^es much of its
wild .'randeur. The course of the valley next c)uin;,'es to iu>arly norlli-
eiist , here it widens, and its walls become lower and much less
rugged, so that in the upper part, the surntuitding hills do iu>t rise
more than ')00 feet alio\c the stream, and ha\e well wooded, rounded
outlines. The current t liroiij,'liout is swift, and two tnilcs up this
course, !i lar<;e ledge of rock, crossing the stream, causes a low chiUc
and hea\y rajiid, pas.sed by a portage of one hundred yards on the
*ast side.

.\t the upper end of the eours", the stream bends (ptickly to the i|,|„., rj,|,j,|K.
iKiilh-west, and for more tluin a mile is broken intf) broad low chutes
a'ld li<'a\y rapids. 'J'his (il)stru(;tion is jia.ssed by a portage nearly a mile
long, of which the lower end is found a short <listance up a smidl stream
which (lows in on the west side at the foot of the rajiids. The poitaije
rises rapidly 170 feet, to the level of a llat sandy terrace, ami then
orosses northward, on the level, to the river, wliere a sharp scarped
l>ank of sand is descended.

lti'2 L

LAHUADOK l•KNI^•^<UI.A.

Iii|fjtii.

ll.iKl.t

HI '11.

Kis

rrom tlif' upfwr oiid of thi< |iortiiKc, tlii' stroain Krii<liiiilly ImmkIh to
tlio \v«?sl\v(ir.l fur tlic ru-xt live miles, in wlicrc it ll.ws out of I^iikf
M(iuohiilii>{iiii. Aloiix this portion tin- Imiiks mo iiui liij<li, imil tin-
rounded rocky liills uro (luitc distitnt, so tliiit llif roimlry on ciilior
sidf of tlie river i.s low andlliit, and is tlii'kly wooded witli .s|irucu,
HankHiiin pine, lir and hirili, sonievNiial smaller tiiiin heforo notfd.

Lako MuuchiilaKiin is not a-* lonj,' or as lur>;e as the lower lake, Ixit,
notwitlistun<linj,', contains a yreut volume of \vat<'r. Its f,'reateHl lenj,'tli
in fortv-oni- miles, and its avt-raye lireailtli aliout one mile, liein;^ least
in its southern hidf, anil varying from one mile and a half to two
miles in the northern jmrt. In slmpe tiiiH lake also resenihloM an
irrei;ular are, hut with the convexity towards the w»" •, ; on aecuiuit of
the opposite hends in these long lakes, their norlhei,. ends approach
within fifteen ndles of each other, and the interval tliero in occupied
hy low lands cctvered with lakes,

iilxiv. Tiip level of the lake is 830 feet alniVf' the sen, and its water is
reinarkahly deep. Houndinjis made oil' Partridge-tail Hill, on tlie west
side, ahf)ul liftecMi miles from tii«! north end of the lake, give a (ieptli
of 460 feet, at one hundred yards from shores ; whih' at a distanc*' of
;)00 yai'ds the depth is ()");■» feet, the greatest known depth of any
lake in the Labra'dor ]'enins\da. The water is clear, witii a hiownish
tinge.

Owing to the great depth, hut few places are suitaiile for the setting
of net.s, and con.secpiently the fisheries are not well known to the
Indians except in the northern pait, where the saiul brought down
hy the principal tributary has silt<'d u|- the bottom and produced shal-
low water over a considerable aiea. Here large (juantities of lake
trout, whitefish, land-locked salmon, pike and suckers are taken in
nets during the sjiring and autunui.

The short's of tlie lake alternate between wide rocky points ami
sandy bays, and the banks in most places rise in terraces cut out of
thick deposits of drift that llartk the locky hills on both sides. The
higlu--l ♦errace is about laU feet above the j)resent level of the lake,
and it is seen on both sides in all favourable! localities.

The hills are, for the most part, well rounded, but broken by deep
valleys, those on the west side rising from 200 to 500 feet al)ove the
water. On the east side they are low and regular until the middle of
the lake is reached, where a range of high irrcgulai-shapcd hills of
rusty garnetdiorite occupies the country back from the .shore for more
than ten miles, when they again die away in the low lands at the head
of the lake. To the north of the lake a low flat country extends for

MAMK'l'AtiAM HIVKU.

1S3 L

I

Home ten miles, to tlic t'lmt of a liij{li ii'n'j{uliir ruiiK«' »( h'tVs, which,
from tlicii'oiitliiKt iimi whitf folnuf urt- ImOIi'vciI (o Im* fnriiicd (it' cryHtnl-
liiio htiifHloriH iiiii>xt«iisiiiii of tli« hills Ht>cn ulong thfl river ulmvn thv
liikc iiiiil (icsi'i-jlicd Inter. < )ver tlu'ee (|iiiirter.s of t he cotititry smi-oiiiul-
iufi tlie lake liiis, within the Inst three yeiii's, heeii (levii.stateil l>y tiie,
anil in i'iinMei|iienee only hluckeneil trunks nv*^ .seen in most places,
Th<> timber remaining is chielly hliu'k Hprucc, Neldorn oxi-n ■(lin>( twelvH
ineh(>s in ilia i eier, t();;etlier with v«'hite liireli, Italsain tir, aspen,
llanksiuM pine iinil ii few lari'li, all ^'i-owin;; thii'kly, htil small in si/e.

A number of small rivers enter the lak<>, ^eniirally with falls clo>o
to thuir month. .Most of them eomo in on ti it* west side, nnii ono of
them, which enters ii few miles south of tho t'lirtrid^e trail, forms
with itscomn'ctod lakes, a route to • )utardes Itivor. The main stream,
or .Mniichalatjan Uiver, llows throii^di a wide, Mat xalley on tho west
side, ulMtut tive miles from tho north end of the lake.

A» before stated, wide shoalH extend for more than a mile into the
hike, diviilin<r the stream into narrow channels, which render an ap
]>roacli dilliciilt diiriiiK low stap-s of water. JMir the first four miles
from its mouth, the stream IIiavs from the north-north-west in a chan-
nel more than a i|itai'ler of ii mile wide, with low scir|ied sliores and
sandy shallow bottom, with a moderate cui'rei\t. At the head of this
course, a larj^c branch, called the Kawikwanipinis Hivcr, joins from
the northeast. Its volume appears to be about one-ipiarter of the
main stream below its junction. It is aliout 100 yards wide and
ft\eraj{es six feet in depth, with a current of two mileb an hour.

This river, a short distance above it.s month, passes in a deep
narrow valley, between Iiiiil ru;.'i,'e(l hills of white crystalline limestom-.
From information obtained from the Indians, who hunt along tlie
sti'(>am for many miles aliove its mouth, it is a succession of loiij,' heavy
rapiils and ipiite uniiavi<rable, until near its he id, where ii llow.s out of
a large lake calhul Mishinik, some fifty miles to the north-ea.st of its
mouth and close to the northern watershed. Vioni tlu- north end of
this lake, |iorta;;e- routes throuji;li small lakes lead north and north
east into the headwaters of streams llowing north into the Koksoak
lliver, and ('aslward into the Moisie Hiver. The porUigo- route to Ijike
Mishinik and past the rapid lower part of the river, is by a small
tributary which joins the main stream foiirt«>en miles above the
Kawikwai.'piiiis. This route is exceetlingly long and rough, and quite
impassable during the summer months for heavily loaded canoes, owing
to the shallow streams and lakes connected by more than fifty portages,
many of which are long ami pass through deep swamps. The Indians

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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

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184 L

LABKADOU PKMNSULA.

wait at Lake ]M()uclml(i;^'an until winter sets in, and then liau) their
canoes and outfit over the portage-route, reluming in the spring in
their canoes. At this time they carry out only the furs caught during
the winter, and in consc(|nence pass over the portages in one trip.

Above the Kawikwanipinis, the main sti'eam, for the next fourteen
miles up to the small tributary above mentioned, has a general direction
from the north-west, with a number of minor bends on both sides of the
course. It now enters a distinct \ailey, which narrows from a mile to
less than half a mile across as the stream is ascended, with rocky walls
Higli^clitfs. from 300 to 500 feet high, often with perpendicular cliff-faces, especially
along the upper half of the distance, where white crystalline limestone
and '"usty, decomposed gneiss are the prevalent rocks.

For five miles above the forks, the channel averages 200 yards in
width, and a steady curi'ent flosvs over the sandy shallow bottom ; farther
up, the stream is broken into numerous channels \>\ long islands of
drift, often well wooded with medium-sized white spiuce and white
birch. The current here becomes swift with short shallow rapids, and
poling is necessary in ascending with canoes. In many places thick
sections of false-bedded sands and gravels are exposed in the scarped
banks, and well-marked terraces were noted at 10, 20, 40, <)0, 70, and
100 feet above the stream. The lower terraces are thickly wooded
with trees similar to those fountl on the islands, along with black sjjruce,
which predominates on the upper terraces and on the rocky sides of the
valley. About one-half of the forest in the valley has been recently
burnt.

The valley now turns due west for two miles and a half, and then
nearly north for three miles and a half. Throughout these distances
the river passes through a narrow rocky gorge with walls rising from
200 to 500 feet. The channel, in ascending, first naiTows to about fifty
yards and continues so for more than a mile. The current is very
strong, and increases into a heavy rapid, with a low chute where th^
stream passes over a ledge of limestone. Above the chute the stream
widens to 300 yards and is broken into numerous shallow channels by
gravel bars and masses of coar.se blocks and bouldeis. The stream here
descends with heavy rapids. At the bend, the valley and river again
narrow, and the latter varies from ten to 100 yards in width as it
piis.ies down over a number of short chutes connected by heavy rapids.
Gorge. Wit" this charactei' the streaui continues to the head of the gorge,

where the valley gradually opens up, and as it widens it becomes free
from rocky ledges. This portion of the river can be navigated with
canoes only at low stages of water, as tlun only can portages be made
over the loeky margins between the steep walls and the water at the
chutes.

11

kl

J

MANICUAGAN KIVEK.

185 L

(U

The Indians never use this part of the stream ; they pass it by a
portage-route of which the lower end leaves the main stream on its east
bank a few yaids above the mouth of the already-mentioned tributary.
The portage is short and ends on this stream, which is followed north-
ward for a mile and a iiaif in a direct line, but, owing to the stream
winding from side to side in a valley about half a mile wide, the dis-
tance by water is more than four miles. The direction of the route
now changes to north-west and continues nearly so to the head of the
gorge. From the stream a portage of a mile and a half leads to a
small lake 450 feet above the rivei'. The route next passes through Portage last
three small lakes connected by short portages, for two miles, and then "'" ^'"'S^"-
by ;i portage of a mile and a h^ilf down hill to the river. The country
surrounding the lakes is characterized by rounded, rolling hills partly
covered witli small black spruce and larch, with a few birch trees.

From the head of the portage, the valley runs nearly due north, and
• luickly widens out to nearly one mile, with its bordering hills rising
gradually on both sides to heights varying from 300 to 000 feet. The
river has ;in average width of 400 yards for the next five miles, up
to where the main jiortage-route leaves it. The channel is shallow and
greatly broken by drift bars and low wooded islands, with a very
swift current that averages five miles an hour and is occasionally bioken
into short rapids. Between the hills and the water there are wide
intervals of terraced drift, the highest terraces being about 100 feet
above the water. Scarped banks show the drift to he chiefly fine
sand, with occasional beds of small gravel near the top, all showing
signs of bedding at various angles to ti.e horizontal. The trees in the
valley continue to be of fair size and are chiefly black spruce, with
white spruce, balsam fir, white birch, aspen, larch and Banksian pine.

The main stream, a few miles above where the portage-route leatves rortagi-routc
it at the head of this stretch, becomes very rapid, and flows in a deep, ,,i,.,!J!^^** "
narrow gorge, with high, steep, rocky hanks, where it is impossible to
ascend with canoes, and very dangerous to descend. On this account,
the Indians make use of a long and difiicult portage-route, in order to
reach the upper waters of the river. This route was passed over in
ascending to the watershed, and will be described further on.

Above this portage-route, the valley continues northward for seven
miles. Along the lower part it is somewhat wider than the portion
last described, and the river is also broader, with high drift banks,
from beneath which rounded masses of rock outcrop at intervals.

Along the upper three miles, the valley gradually narrows and the
drift on the banks of the stream give place to ruck, which hems it in

186 L

LAllRADOR PENINSULA.

Pe|)echekau
Kiver.

DaiiKerons
rapids*.

and, as the grade is heavy, causes it to form wild lapids in a channel
less than 100 yards wide.

On the east side, about one mile below the upper end of the course,
a large branch called the Pepechekau River, enters the valley with a
beautiful fall of fifty feet. This stream heads in the neighbourhood of
Mishinik Lake, to the north-eastward.

The valley, for the next twenty miles, runs almost straight north-
north-west, with only a few minor bends. For the whole distance it
never exceeds 400 yards in width in the bottom, and for many long
stretches is less than one hundred yards across, with high, rocky
banks rising abruptly from 300 to GOO feet, to the level of the
irregular table-land above. The grade of the valley is . teep, and
down it the river, much confined, rushes in wild, heavy icpids,
broken occasionally by short, low chutes. The shore is rocky, and
broken with small, irregular points, past which the water rushes with
great velocity and thus forms dangerous whirlpools. This portion
of the river is exceedingly dangerous to travel, owing to the impossi-
bility of making portages in most places, on account of the high,
perpendicular walls of the valley and of the absence of any beach
between their foot and the water. During the descent of this portion
of the river it was only with the greatest difficulty and danger that
the frequent landings necessary for the survey were made, and dis-
aster was avoided in a number of places only by good luck. At a
rapid pitch about half way down, one canoe was accidentally upset,
and Paul Bacon, an Indian guide, was most unfortunately drowned ir.
the whirlpools. Although the river was carefully searched below, no
trace was found of the body of the unfortunate young man, nor of
the canoe or its contents, which must have been caught in some of
the eddies and sunk out of sight beneath the deeply-eroded, rocky
banks.

Along the upper mile of this course, where the river first passes
into the canon, it falls 140 feet, in a succession of chutes over rocky
ledges, the stream being broken into a multitude of channels by small
rocky islands. The trees along the walls of the cafion are chiefly
black spruce and a few white birch, with an occasional tree of white
spruce along the lower portion.

Above the head of this gorge, the hills on both sides fall away,
leaving a valley several miles across, bounded by broken ridges of
rounded hills from 100 to 500 feet high. The valley is filled with a
great accumulation of drift arranged in low ranges of drumlin-like
hills, covered with boulders. The river now spreads out, and is broken

81

1

]

MANICUAGAN HIVER.

187 L

^ ;

»

into numerous channels by the detached drift ridges, so that for the next

fourteen miles it assumey a lake-like character, alth(jugh everywhere

the current is perceptible and in many places strong. This portion is

called Natokapau. The stream continues to How from north-north- Xotaknpau.

west for eight miles, to where a large branch called the Attikopi

River joins it from the westward. The main stream, or Itomami

Branch, then changes its direction and flows almost due south.

Several large streams from the surrounding countiy join the main

river in this neighbourhood. On the west side two flow in below the

Attikopi River, and drain small chains of lakes on the high lands, •

through which a portage-route passes to join the Attikopi River.

Two other streams enter on the east side, within a short distance u,.,inches.

of the commencement of the carion, while at the upper end of

Natokapau a large branch called the Mossy-pine River, joins from

the north-east, where it is said to head in several long lakes on the

watershed, one of which, at least, also discharges northward into the

Koksoak River.

Above the Attikopi, the main stream flows in short crooked courses
down a valley from one to four miles wide, bounded by rounded hills
from 200 to 500 feet high, that run in broken ranges parallel to the
direction of the valley, or northeast and south-west. The lower lands
surrounding the river are covered with ridges of drift, often largely
formed of coarse boulders and angular blocks of rock. The summits
of all the higher hills I'ise above the tree-line and are covered only
with low arctic willows and shrubs. The trees growing on the low
lands are small and stunted ; over ninety per cent are black spruce,
witii a few larch and Banksian pines, and an occasional clump of small
straggling white birch. The aspen is not found above the mouth of
tlie Attikopi 1 er.

The valley continues in a north-east direction for forty miles, up to
the watershed, beyond which it was seen holding the same course for
at least thirty miles farther.

Above the Mossy-pine River, the main stream is about one hundred chamcter of
feet wide in rapids, where the average depth is under two feet. Im- '!^f "pper
mediately above its junction there is a short heavy rapid leading from
a small lake-expansion connected by short rapids with three others in
the next seven miles. Above these, for twelve miles the river is nar-
row and blocked with small islands and huge boulders, past and over
which it pouis in continuous heavy rapids. It then flows out of the
lower of a series of lake-expansions that almost fill the bottom of the
valley, and are only separated from one another by short hea\y
rapids. These continue for ten miles, until the outlet of Lake Itoma-
mis is reached. This lake is five miles long, and from one to two

188 L

KAUllADOU PKNIXSULA.

Itoiimniis miles wide, with several small irregular bays stretching away from the
main body. It is surrounded by barren-topi)ed hills that rise from
200 to 500 feet above it. Low shores, backed by drift ridges, inter-
vene in many places Vjetween the water and the surrounding hills, and
they are covered by patches of stunted ))lack spruce and a few larches.
The lake is fed by two large and a number of small streams. The
largest flows in on the west side, near the south end, and forms the
outlet of a chain of lakes on a portage-route to the head of the
Attikopi River as described further on.

The second large stream Hows into the north end of the lake, and,
by two short rapids and a small lake-expansion, connects this lal<e with
Itomami or Summit Lake, so called on account of its waters di.scliarg-
ing in opposite directions ; the southern outlet forming the head of
the main brancli of the Manicuagan River, the northern flowing into
Lake Kaniapiskau, and thence into Ungava Bay. Tiie streams flow-
ing out are about equal in size and volume, being about ten feet wide
in the rapids of both discliarges.

Suiiunit LivUf. Summit Lake is cut by the 5.'?rd parallel of north latitude. It is
six miles long, and a%-erages about one mile in width, with two lateral
bays, which increase the width in the centre to three miles. It is esti-
mated to be 1940 feet above sea-level. Like the lower lake, it is sur-
rounded by rugged, rocky hills, arranged in roughly parallel ridges.
These hills are all barren on the top ; on the low lands surrounding
the lake small black .spruce grows, \)\it only in open groves. A great
part of the timber has been destroyed by fii-e, and the landscape has a
most desolate, barren appearance.

Country jibf III t From the summit of a hill that rises 565 feet above the water,

the watershed, gj^yated on the east side of the lake near its north end, a fine view
was obtained of the country about the watershed. The valley of
Itomami is seen continuing in a north-north-east direction for more
than twenty-five miles ; beyond, it appears to bend towards the north,
and a chain of long narrow lakes partly fills the valley, down which
they discharge into Lake Kaniapiskau. Another wide valley stretches
off towards the north, with two large lakes, the upper of which appears
to be about 200 feet above the level of Summit Lake, into which it
drains. To the westward are two more lakes, the lower separated
only by a nari-ow strip of sand from Sunnnit Jjike. To the south, there
is a narrow valley containing a chain of small lakes. With the.se
exce])tions, nothing is seen in all directions but rounded, barren-topped
mountains, apparently considerably higher to the east, nortii-east, and
north than about the lake, and the elevation of these mountains may
vary from 300 to 600 feet above the lake, or from 2000 to 2500 feet
above sea-level.

'■

■'

low.

ATTIKOl'I BRANCH.

189 L

i

ki

Aftikopi Branch.

This stream, as befoi'o mentioned, joins the main liver in a small .runction with
bay at Natokapau. At its mouth tliere is a short rapid where the """" ''''■'■'■
river passes down a channel about one hundred feet wide, over and
between lar^e boulders. For ten miles it flows in an irregular channel
between low ridges of di ift, thickly strewn with boulders and angular
blocks of rock, on its way down from Lake Attikopi. The stream is
greatly broken by nipids and chutes, and descends over 250 feet in the
ten miles. The grade of the upper half is the heavier, and low ledges
of rock along this portion cause frequent chutes. In all six portages,
aggregating four miles in length, are necessary to pass those obstructions.
Besides the low boulder-strewn ridges, occasional low hills of rock rise
above the general level, and become more marked as Lake Attikopi is
approached.

This lake is very irregular in shape, and its surface is broken by many L^ke Attikopi
rocky islands. A long point, stretching out from the soutti side, di-
vides it into two bays, with a tliird trending towards the north-east-
From the discharge, at the south-east end, to its north-east inlet, the
distance is about live miles, and its greatest breadth is about four miles.
It is surrounded by broken ranges of rocky hills, from 200 to 400 feet
high, the wide valleys between being characterized by low ridges of drift.
Over one half of the forest has been destroyed by fire, and the remain-
der is chiefly small black spruce and larch, with a few Banksian pines
and birches. Here the river divides into two branches of about equal
volume. That flowing into the south-west bay is called the Kiche-wa-
pistoakan River, while the one entering the north-west angle of the
lake, is caled the Attikopis Biver. The former flows from the south- South-wewt
west, where it rises some forty miles away from Lake Attikopi, in '""anoh.
a number of small lakes whose discharges interlock streams flowing
into the Peribonka and Outardes rivers, with the head-waters of the
Manicuagan River. This stream was explored for twenty miles above
its outlet, to whei'e a small tributary passes into Lake Kitchewapistoa-
kan, on the portage-route past the unnavigable portion of the Moucha-
lagan River. For this distance the stream flows in p channel about
one hundred feet wide, generally with a sluggish current, except at
short rapids which occur at fretjuent intervals. The channel is very
crooked, and the banks seldom show solid rock, being for the most part
composed of sand and generally low. The main direction of the stream
is determined by sharp irregular ridges of sand, which bound its west-
ern side. These ridges are nearly continuous and where they are cut Great e.sker
by the river, show the false-bedded structure of an esker, or deposit '''"&•'•

190 L

LAHKADOU I'ENINSILA.

Hight'st ari'ii
of central
Labrador.

Attikopiii
Branch,

'ormed by a river (lowing in or under the ice-sheet. Tiiis great esi<er
was traced for nioro tlian twenty-five mile.s heyond Lake Attikopi
toward the north-east, while in the opposite direction, according to the
Indians, it extends almost to Lake Pietipi on the Outardes lliver, or a
total distance of nearly one hundred miles. It is a marked physical
feature in its south-western half, where it traverses wide ssvamps, and
is used as a highway by the Indians in their winter travel. On the
east side of the river, the country is covered with low, drundin ridges of
coarse till.

From the above description, the general surface of the country sur-
rounding the river will be seen to be low and neaily fl.it, and it is only
broken by occasional isolated locky hills that ri^e from 200 to 400 feet
above the general level. According to the Indian guide, the upper,
unexplored portion of the river preserve.s the same character, flowing
nearly on the surface of a wide swampy plain broken only by the
esker ridge and by a few low drumlins. This plain extends northwards
about ten miles to the font of a high range of bai ren hills that rises
500 to 1000 feet above its level, and constitutes the highest area of
central Labrador, being about 2400 feet above sea-level, forming the
watershed between the Big Uiver of Hudson Bay and the rivers flowing
into the St, Lawrence.

• The Attikopis Brarlch flows from the northeast, where it takes its
rise in Lake Attikopis, or Little Attikopi, some twenty miles from the
larger lake. The smaller lake is less than three miles long, and is
divided by two narrows ; it is chiefly of importance on account of two
portage-routes which join here. One, from the westward leads to
Nichicun, the other to Summit Lake, The Attikopis River, below
the lake, flows in crooked courses in a wide valley bounded by rounded,
rocky, isolated hills on the east side and by the higher range of granite
hills on the west. Two spurs of this range rise close to the liver.
The valley is broken by low boulder ridges, with extensive swamps
and small lakes between them. This country is partly covered with
small, stunted black spruce and a few larches, while the hills are almost
wholly barren. The river-channel is very irregular and occupies the
depressions between the drift ridges. It practically consists of nar-
row lakes, connected by short rapids, where the channel is lined with
boulders. Before reaching Lake Attikopi, it passes through a lake
thi-ee miles long and about one mile wide, below which a mile of
rapids and strong current leads to the large lake. Little Attikopi
Lake is fed by two large brooks, both of which head in the mountainous
country westward of Summit Lake. The portsige-route follows the
the eastern stream, almost due east, for six miles by its winding chan-

•]

l'OKTA(iE-HOrTE LAKE ATPIKOPIS TO NICHICUX.

191 I,

ncl, to a luke about two miles across, surrounded by high, rugged,
barren hills. Alx)v e this lake the stream is too small for canoes, and
portages are made alon^ it between the three small lakes at its head ;
tliese portages are respectively one-lialf, two, and one mile long. The
portage over the waterslied, between this stream and one flowing
into the main branch, is about a mile and a half long and passes over a
ridge between high, rugged hills, which surround the route. The.se
hills are semi-barren, and the country has a verj' rough, di-solate
character.

Four small ponds, connected by a little stream, lead into a larger
lake, about four miles long, thedischargeof which is navigablewith canoes,
and, in a mile and a half to the next lake, it is broken by several rapids.
This lake is a mile long and empties by a short rapid into Spruce
Mountain T^ike, which is four miles across to its southern angle, where
it discharges. A narrow bay runs up a deep valley to the northward,
and the lake is filled with islands and surrounded by high hills. The
discharge is characterized by heavy rapids for two miles, to where it
enters Itoniamis Lake.

I'ortage-roitte hcfireeii Lake Attikopix and Nichicnn.

The portage-route to Nichicun leaves Lake Attikopis by its western Udute to
tributary, which is ascended for about one mile ; then a portage of o\er ^'c'l'cu"-
a mile leads to a little lake that empties into the small river. From
this little lake two portages of a mile and a half mile respectively, with
a small pond between them, end in a narrow lake, one mile long,
connected by a short portage with a larger irregular lake, nearly three
miles long. Tlie general direction of this portion of the route is almost
due west, and is through a wide valley surrounded by barren, rocky
hills, from 300 to 600 feet high. The only trees seen skirt the lakes or
grow in the swamps, the remainder having been destroyed by fire, leav-
ing exposeu low hummocks of drift thickly strewn with boulders. A
portage of a quarter of a mile ciosses the watershed and ends in a
small lake drained by a tributary of the Big River. The direction
of the route now changes to nearly south-west, for nine miles, as it
passes first through a lake two miles long, connected with the next by
a river stretch of one mile, with three portages past rapids, followed by
a lake for five miles and another river stretch of a mile, with several
rapids. A change of direction next occurs to west-north- west for the
next twenty-four miles, along which course the stream passes through
seven small lakes, and is greatly augmented by the junction of small '

branches from the lakes that partly fill the surrounding valleys.

192 I.

I.AIIRADOU I'KN INSULA.

Lakr
kiiij.

Betwoon oac'li lako tluM'o an; licavy ra])i(la, sii that tho larj!;(! lake,
called Naokokan, into wiiicli the river tiiiiptie.s, is hi ine 20U feet
bolow the level of tho lakn at the watershed, or nearly 1800 feet above
the sea. The country surrouiidiiij,' tlie river i'\ n)U<,'h, hut the rofky
hills near tho valley din away to the south and west as Naokokan is
approached. Recent fires have destroyed the j^reater part of tho small
stunted, black spruce and larch, which partly covered the lower lands.
NiKikn- Naokokan is a larf,-^, irrej^ular lake, nearly cov.red with islands and
deeply indented with bays. Its greatest length, of thirty miles, is
from east to west, while its width appears to be nearly twenty miles.
Fi'(jm an elevation of .'500 teot, near tlu! mouth of the river, tlie lake
had the appearance of a wide plain covered with numerous small lakes,
and it was found only on passing into the lake that these numerous
small lakes were really connected by straits and passages. Three days
were spent in examining the southern shore of the lake in search of its
outlet, and in that time only one of the deep \\estern bays was explored.
Owing to unfavourable weather — heavy south-west gales, accompanied
by rain and fog, — and failing supplies, tho exploration was ended here,
without the outlet being found and descended to Xichicun. It has since
been learned that the outlet is somewhere near the north-east ansfle of
the lake, and that along it the distance to Nichicun is not more than
twenty-five miles.

A large branch was discovered, falling with heavy rapids into the
south side of the lake. This is tiie main stream of the Nichicun
River, and takes its rise in a number of small lakes to the south,
along the northern slopes of the mountains forming the watershed
between it and the ^lanicuagan, Outardes and Peribonka rivers.
South and west of Lake Naokokan, there is a wide, flat plain, broken
only by small isolated hills, and covered with innumerable lakes ; to
the north and north-east, the high mountains of the ^icinity of
Nichicun are seen \s ith their rugged barren tops.

Portage-route used in Ascending the Moiichnlagnn Jiivr.

As previously stated, a portage-route leaves the west bank of the
Mouchalagan River, about twenty-five miles above Mouchalagan Lake.
A description of this route is intelligible only by reference to the map,
as it follows a succession of portiges joining little lakes and streams
that lie in small valleys between the hills of the table-land, high above
the level of the river-valley. The first portage is a mile and a quartei'
long. It leaves the river immediately above the mouth of a small
stream and follows up its valley to a little lake on the table-land 620

PORTAOE-ROUTE MOUCHAI-Ad.VN ItlVKU.

19:» L

feet iil)ove tlit- river. TIjoro is a very marko I cliiiiim'n in tiui .si/.o and
variety of forest treon ijetwoeii tiio ends of tiio |)i)rtai,'e. At tlu! river
there ia ii dense ;{roNvtli nf mediuni-si/ed, bliick and white .s|)i uee,
balsam tir, hanksian pine, iaruli, white l)ircli and aspen, wliilo, about
the small livko above, only stunted Ijlack spruce and IJanksian pine
separated by open glades, are found togotluM' with a few larch about
the swampy margin of the lake.

Crooked courses for two miles lead to the west end of the lake,
whence a portayo of iialf a mile, then a p )n 1, followed b)' a portage of
a mile, lead to a chain of very small lakes, oti the head-waters of the
stream, at a level '200 feet above that of the li>wer lake. Three small
lakes joiiKHl by rapids follow, to a portage one-third of a mile long,
through a swamp, ending in a i narrow, crooked stream which is
ascended about a mile and then left by another swamjiy portage half a
mile long, crossing the watershed between tributaries of the Alani-
cuagan and Outardes rivers at an elevation of IGHO feet above sea-
level, or 770 feet above the river at the commencement of the portago-
route. The country surrounding the route is rolling, being broken by CiimactiTof
short, isolated ridges of rounded hills, that rise from 100 to 400 feet "'"comitiy.
above the water level. Wide valleys lie between the hills, covered either
with small lakes or .swamps, and with frequent low ridges of boulders
rising above the level. The soil is scanty, and everywhere boulders
and large angular fragments of rock are scattered in profusion, so that
there is no ditHculty in walking in any direction over the higher
gn»und without stepping off the.se, while in the swamps the portage
roads frequently lead along ridges of packed fragments, without
any fine material between, and only partly covered with a deep coat-
ing of sphagnum, or white moss. The trees growing on this poor soil
are small and stunted, and over ninety per cent are black spruce, with
only a few groves of Banksian pine and small larch in the swamps.

From the heightof-land portage, the route for five miles follows a
small stream connecting four little lakes, with short portages between
them, and so reaches Little Matonipi Lake, ab(jut four miles
long and a mile and a half wide, studded with many small, rocky
islands. A portage of a mile and a half leads from near the dis-
charge, at the north-west corner of the lake, to the eastern bay of
Matonipi Lake. This bay is about two miles long, and from its j^Xitoniui
mouth a northern bay extends four miles to its head, where the ^^^>^-
portage-route leaves it. Another long bay extends southward .'•everal
miles, with a small river flowing out of its head, to join the Outardes
River some twenty miles below the outlet of Lake Pletipi. The lake
averages a mile in width, and is suirounded by rocky hills that rise

m

194 L

hAllKAllOR PKNINHl'I.A.

in roiuuli'il outline from -00 to HOO fuet, thcwo on t\w west side being
the liiglieHt. Tliia wsNtern ridge in only a few niilt^M aurof^H, and an old
portage- route leads over it to Lake Plotipi, Bonie Ufteen miles awiiy.

The direction of the portiigeroute to Ijike .Miitonipi has been
nearly due west. It now changes to north, and con'inue-i n<'iu' that
course until it reacht-s the south-west branch of the Attikopi Hiver.
The surface of the lake is 1(540 feet above soa-level. The next lake at
the uppfi' end of the portage is two miles distant from the north end
of Matonipi]: it is about threH-(juarters of a mile across, and 270 feet
above Matonipi.

l''rom this lake another portage of two miles leads over a barren,
rocky ridge thickly strewn with bouldei's, into a narrow gully lillod
with small ponds, connected by a brook which discharges into Lake
^latonipi. The rise on this portage is .'J'tO feet. The routt; con
tinues up the gully, and passes in the next four miles thi'ough live
Highodt lefel. ponds, with intervening portages, to the height-of land luftween the
waters of the Outardes Uiver and a small branch of the Mouchalagan
]{iver, at a height of 2390 feet above sea-level, and one of the highest
water summits of the Labrador peninsula.

The portage over the summit is more than a mile long, and passes
between low, rounded, rocky hills, covered with blocks and boulders,
and ends in a small swanapy lake, out of which issues a stream too
Hmall to be descended by canoes.

Two miles of portage, over boulders and through swamp, lead to
the junction of this stream with a somewhat larger one. The portage
here cio.sscs to the west bank, and for two miles and a half farther,
follows down stream, on the summit of a narrow esker of sti'atitied
sand.

At the lower end of the portage, the stream is about twenty-five
feet wide, but soon increases to fifty feet, below a small north branch,
where it has a shallow channel, sandy bottom and sluggish current. This
stream was followed for three miles and a half, and then left by a short
portage to a pond, followed by another portage of half a mile to a small
lake without any outlet. From this lake a three-mile portage leads north-
ward to another pond connected with a small lake by a portage of
half a mile. A similar portage leads from this to a larger lake, which
is followed northward three miles to its end. This lake empties by
another branch into the main river. The next three miles are occupied
by five portages, which pass up a shallow valley, surrounded by
drumlin hills of coarse drift, and containing five small ponds. The
next lake is two and a quarter miles long, and is left by a half-mile

OROI.OOY,

195 I,

pDrtagfl, ciuHng in a small liiko-pxjmtiMion of tlio discliarj^e of timt
hike. Tlio (liMuliai'^n in followed for a coupln of iiiilcH, and th( n a Hinall
liraiieh in a.scondtHi a Nliort diNtanco, to a portaj^o of a i|uart()r of a mile,
past i-apidM, to a Hmall lake above. Five portageo eonnoutin^ pondH oc-
cupy tlio next three milc.H ; tlieti a Hmall Htivam is reached and descended
for about one mile, after whicii a two mile portage lea' In to a |K>iid
connootod by a whort portage with a lake nearly two miles long, from
which a portage of a half-mile leads to Lake Kichewapistoakan on a
small stream llowing into the south-west branch of the Attikoj)i Hivc^r
already described. This lake is of no great si/.o, and is broken into Hixitliwcdt
deep "'Tegular bays by low points of drift and rock. It is chiolly re- kopi Uivcr.
markable, on account of its possessing two discharges, both of which
enter the valley of the main river within a short distance of each other.
In the spring, when the Attikopi branch is in freshet, its water backs
into the lake, and flows out by the second outlet, which at ordinary
times is nearly dry.

The country and timber from the watershed to this place is similar
to that already described. The only difference being the increase of
drift on the northern slope, in the form of till and sand or esker-liko
deposits. The only trees are black spruce along with a very few larch,
and all are stunted and confined to the valleys.

K

GEOLOGY.

The following notes on the various geological formations of the Honrcf of in-
Labrador Peninsula are the result of observations made along widely fi"'"'"t''>"'
separated lines of exploration in that great territory, and the time
given to the work was very limited. It will thus be understood that
they afford only the means of making a rough estimation of the dis-
tribution and extent of the areas of the different rocks, with some
general remarks on their relations, modes of occurrence and age, to-
gether with a more or less detailed statement of the various exposures
of rock actually examined along the routes followed.

The descriptions of the different rocks are from observations made
in the held, together with a microscopic examination of the hand
specimens brought back. It is to be regretted that circumstances pre-
vented more than a small number of microscopic .sections being
made. These have been examined by Mr. W. F. Ferrier and des-
cribed in Appendix V.

Geological Formation.s.

The term Laurentian is employed to designate the complex tnass of Laurention.
highly crystalline Archrean rocks of which the greater part of the
13J

196 t

LAllRADOK PENINSULA.

^SS

Labrador Peninsula is composed. Tliese do not differ in any etssential
particulars from those similarly designated in other parts of Canada.
They consist chiefly of gneisses and schists', some of which are believed
to be highly metamorphosed materials of clastic origin, while others
are regarded as foliated eruptives. As it is not possible, except in
liniitefl areas, to separate these rocks on the map, they are necessarily
treated together.

The rocks of clastic origin are in nearly all casr's the most ancient.
The age of the areas of irruptive rocks is not known definitely, but
many of them are very ancient, as fragments from them are included in
the conglomerates of the Huronian. Others closely resemble the basic
iri'uptivcs found cutting the Cambrian strata, and possibly aic newer
than that bedded series. These basic irruptives are in turn cut by later
intrusions of granite, so that if the former are post-Cambrian some of
the latter n.ay be high up in Palicozoic time. Where the age of these
rocks can be determined by their intrusion into the bedded series of
the HurOxJan or Cambrian, they have been separated from the rest of
the complex, and the remainder grouped under the name Laurentian
until more evidence is obtained as to their exact age. It may be
taken for j^ranted, however, that by far the greater portion of the
irruptive rocks included in the Laurentian are extremely ancient, and
that the areas of those supposed to be post-Cambrian are unimportant
compared with the areas of rocks long antedating that formation.

Huronian. ' "der th name Huronian are included several widely separated

areas of clastic and volcanic rocks, together with many basic eruptives ;
these are represented by various schists, conglomerates, breccias,
dioritesand other rocks more or less interfolded with the Laurentian.

The Cambrian rocks rest unconformably upon the Laurentian and
Huronian, and are made up of bedded sandstones, argillites, shales and
limestones, along with bedded traps and other basic intrusive or
volcanic rocks. More detailed desciiptions of the Huronian and
Cambrian rocks are given under their respective headings.

(ireac lapse of ^^^ Laurentiaii and Huronian gneisses and schists are intensely

time !)etwe('n folded. This folding took place long previous to the deposition of the
HiiroiiinM and ,. i , i? /-, i • ^ n- ■ , , . , ,

Canibria.i. sedimentary beds oi Cambrian age ; and a sutticiently long time had

elapsed between the period of folding and the Cambrian submergence,
to allow for great removal of material by denudation and for the main
sculpturing of the peninsula. The Cambrian rocks are found flat-
bedded in the valley of Hamilton Inlet, and extend fifty miles up the
Hamilton River ; they are also found resting almost undisturbed in
the great basins of Mistassini and Michikamau lakes. These examples

Cftii<brian.

APPENDIX I.'

List of Mammalia of the Larrador Peninsula, with Short Notes
ON their Distribution, etc., by A. P. Low.

The following notes on the habits and range of the mammalia of
Labrador, as far as refers to the interior, are largely the results of ob-
servations and information obtained during the recent explorations : —

Lynx Canade^isis, Desmarest (Canada Lynx, Mountain Cat). — The
lynx is commonly found within the wooded area, from the Atlantic coast
to Hudson Bay. During the winter of 1893, many skins were taken
in the valley of the Hamilton River. The number is said by the
Indians and traders to vary with that cf the rabbits which form the
natural food of the lynx. When the rabbits are dying off after seasons
of plent}', the Indians all say that the lynx does not breed, and only
when the rabbits are again becoming plentiful do they again produce
young. These animals are generally caught in dead-falls placed at
the mouths of hollow logs.

Canis lupus, Linn. (Wolf). — The wolf is seldom met with in the
southern regions since the extermination of the caribou there. It
is now found only in the barren and semi-barren lands, where the
caribou are still plentiful. A wolf was seen at the post at Northwest
River, and a single skin was seen in the possession of an Indian on
the upper Hamilton River ; the animal had been shot near Lake
Michikamau. On the Hudson Bay coast, wolves were formerly plenti-
ful, but of late years are quite rare.

Canis lupus, var. alhus. — The White or Arctic Wolf is occasionally
taken in the barren grounds, but does not appear to enter the tim-
bered regions of the interior.

Canis familiaris. Say. — The Eskimo Dog is common along the
coast everywhere, but south of Sandwich Bay the breed is much
mixed. This animal plays an important part along the coasts,
being used in the place of horses, or other animals for hauling. The
methods of attaching the dogs to the sleds is different from that em-
ployed in the west, each dog having an independent trace, so arranged
in length, that when the dogs are in line each one falls in behind
another. The number of dogs in a team varies from four to thirteen.
They are extensively used by the Eskimo and resident whites in

314 L

LADRADOR PENINSULA.

travelling about the coast, and also for hauling wood, water and other
loads. On ordinary ' roads ' each dog will haul about 1 00 pounds, but
when travelling on the crust, in the spring time, the load can easily
be doubled or trebled.

Vulpes vulgaris, Fleming (Red, Cross, Silver and Black Fox). — These
different animals are only colour varieties of the same species. On the
Moose River, in 1887, the writer found a litter containing seven kits ;
of these two were red, three were cross and the remaining two black
or silver — thus showing that the colour of foxes no more constitutes
varieties than does the difference of colour in a litter of kittens of the
common cat. There appears to be a greater proportion of dark-coloured
foxer, in the northern region than in the southern. The fox is found
throughout Labrador from the St. Lawrence to Hudson Strait, where
it is taken in the barrens and along the coast by the Eskimo. Most
of the skins are taken before Christmas, as the fur becomes poor early
in the spriag.

Vulpes laffopus, Linn. (Arctic Fox, White Fox) is found most abund-
antly in the barren grounds. It is taken rarely south of Lake Michi-
kamau or Nichicun. Along the seaboard the white fox ranges farther
south, descending to the southern part of James Bay, and on the
Atlantic coast being plentiful about Hamilton Inlet, but more rare
southward to near the Strait of Belle Isle. Most of the foxes along
the southern Atlantic coasts are said to be migrants from the northern
coasts, and they are rarely caught south of Hamilton Inlet before that
body of water is frozen over. The blue fox (var. fnligiiwsns) is much
less abundant than the white, with which it is found. It is very rare
along the southern half of the Atlantic coast.

Mustela Americana, Turton (Sable, Pine Marten). — The marten is
one of the most abundant and valuable fur-bearing animals of Labrador.
Its northern range is practically limited to the southern boundaiy of
the semi-barrens, and it is found only in the wooded stretches
of the river-valleys north of this line ; north of the Big and
Hamilton rivers, it is rarely found. The largest and darkest skins are
taken along the edge of its northern limits, and on this account the
skins bought at Fort George, Nichicun, Fort Chimo and Northwest
River are much more valuable than those procured at the southern
posts. The marten hunt is made after the smaller lakes set fast until
Docember, and again during the months of March and April, after
which the skins become poor.

Mustela Pennantii, Erxleben (Fisher, Pekan). — This animal only
rarely enters the south-west limits of T ibrador, not being known to
occur east of Mingan, or north of Mistassini.

•]

APPENDIX I.

315 L

Putorius vulgaris, Linn. (Weasel). — Common everywliere south of
the tree limit.

Putorius ermineus, Linn. (Ermine). — Common everywhere through-
out the wooded regions.

Putorius vison, Brisson (Mink). — The mink is limited to the
southern part of Labrador, and is only rarely found north of the East
Main and Hamilton rivers. Not a single specimen was seen on the
upper Hamilton River during the summer of 1894, and the Indians
of that locality report it as rare. It is common on the lower river and
about Hamilton Inlet. Several specimens were taken on the upper
East Main River, but it is rare about Nichicun.

Gulo luscus (Linn.) Sabine (Wolverine, Carcajou). — Abundant
throughout Labrador, especially in the northern portions, where it is
taken by the Eskimo as far north as Hudson Strait. This animal is the
personification of the devil among the Indians, owing to its cunning
and destructive habits. Every Indian has wonderful stories to relate
about the ferocity and intelligence of the wolverine. No cache of
provisions or outfit is safe from the attacks of these animals, unless
built up from the ground on high posts, in such a manner that the
floors project and prevent the animals from reaching the sides or top.
When a wolverine breaks into a cache, it not only eats the pro-
visions, but breaks up and destroys other articles not tit for food. A
wolverine in the vicinity of an Indian's hunting grounds, proves a
very disagreeable neighbour, from its habits of following the hunter's
tracks and either springing his traps and removing the bait, or else
devouring the martens and other animals already caught. The
wolverine is seldom caught itself, as its cunning is sufficient, after it
has lost a few claws in the traps, not to put its feet in the set traps
without first springing them by moving them about. When caught,
they frequently gnaw off their foot above the trap and leave it, at
other times they depart, taking trap and chain with them. In the
fall of 1893, a wolverine carried away a trap from the Northwest
River, and was taken a few days later in another trap on the Hamil-
ton River, some thirty miles away from the place where it had picked
up the first trap. The reason it was taken in the second trap,
was because it could not obtain food while dragging the trap and chain
through the bush, so, being reduced to starvation and hampered by
the trap attached to its front leg, it was not able to spring the second
one without being caught.

Mephitis mnphitica, Shaw (Skunk). — Stearns says that it is rarely
seen on the southern coast.

316 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Lutra Ganadenais, Turton (Otter). — The otter is common through-
out the wooded region and ranges northward into the barren grounds.
The skins taken in the northern regions have the darkest and most
glossy fur. Very abundant on the upper Hamilton River, especially
in the vicinity of the Grand Falls, where a number of Indian families
congregate in the spring to hunt it.

UrsHs arctos, Richardson (Barren-ground Bear). — There is no doubt
that this species is found in the barrens of Labrador, as skins are
brought in at intervals to Fort Chimo, and the Nascaupee Indians have
numerous tales of its size and ferocity.

Uraus Americanus, Pallas (Black Bear). — The wooded country is
the northern limit of this s^ ecie.s, and it is most abundant in the
southern regions in the burnt districts. Specimens were seen on
the East Main River and about the Grand Falls on the Hamilton
River. About Lake Winokapau and the lower Hamilton River bears
are numerous. At Cambrian Lake, on the Koksoak River, the tracks
of a large bear were seen along the shores, but it is not known whether
these were those of a black bear or a barren-ground bear.

Thalassarctoa maritimus, Linn (Polar Bear). — This species is as a
rule confined to the coast and rarely travels inland, except to produce
its young. At such time it is met with from twenty-five to fifty miles
from the coast. On the Atlantic coast it is occasionally found as far
south as the Strait of Belle Isle, whither it is carried from the
north on ice floes. North of Hamilton Inlet, it is frequently met
with along the coast and on the islands, being common about Cape
Chidley and along Hudson Strait. During the winter of 1894 the
tracks of three white bears were seen close to Northwest River, at
the head of Hamilton Inlet, and a few specimens have been killed in
that locality. In Hudson Bay, the white bear ranges southward to
Charleton Island, near the south end of James Bay, in latitude 52°,

Odohaenus roamarus, Malmgren. (Walrus). — This species, once com-
mon along the entire Labrador coast and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, is
now found only on the Atlantic coast about and to the northward
of Nachvak. It is common at all seasons in Hudson Strait, and
along the northern Hudson Bay coast. Large numbers are killed by
the Eskimo on the chains of outer islands which stretch southward to
opposite Little Whale River off that coast.

Phoca vitidina, Linn. (Harbour Seal, Fresh-water Seal). — Common
to the coast and low parts of the rivers all round Labrador. There
are two or three large lakes inland near the head of the Stillwater
Branch of the Koksoak River, but probably drained by the Nastapoka

r

■]

APPENDIX I.

317 L

River into Hudson Bay, where seals are reported by the Indians ns
plentiful. Another large lake inhabited by seals, is situated at the
head of the north branch of the Northwest River, which flows into
Hamilton Inlet. Skins in possession of the Indians, taken from these
lakes, sliow that the s^als belong to this species. According to the
Indians, these animals never leave the lakes, and consequently have
acquired a fresh-water habit.

Phova foetida, Fabricius (Ringed Seal). — Along the whole Labrador
coast. Commonest species in the Hudson Strait, and the principal
food of the Eskimo.— (Tyrrell.)

Phoca Groenlandica, Fabricius (Harp Seal). — Very abundant along
Labrador coast. Common on south shore of Hudson Strait. Com-
mon in Hudson Bay.

Erignathus barbatua, Fabricius (Bearded Seal, Squase-tiipper). — Rare
on the St. Lawrence and southern Labrador coasts. Common about
Nachvak, where the dog traces made from this skin are obtained for
the southern Hudson's Bay Company's posts. A large specimen was
seen at the head of tide, some sixty miles above the mouth of the
Koksoak River. Common in Hudson Strait and Hudson Bay. Numbers
seen about the Twin Islands in James Bay. Specimen obtained at the
mouth of Muose River by Dr. R. Bell.

Halich(pru8 grypus, Fabricius (Gray Seal). — liare along Atlantic
coast, Hudson Strait and Hudson Bay.

Cystophora criatata, Erxleben (Hooded Seal). — Not common along
the coasts of Labrador.

Delphinopterua catodon, Linn. (White Porpoise, White Whale). —
Found everywhere along the coasts of the Labrador Peninsula from
the St. Lawrence to the southern extremity of Hudson Bay. Fisheries
foi' these animals are established in the mouths of the Koksoak, Leaf
and Whale rivers flowing into Ungava Bay, and were formerly car-
ried on at Great and Little Whale rivers on Hudson Bay. The
whales are driven, as they ascend the river at high tide, into ponds
inclosed by strong nets, and when the tide g es out they are either
speared or shot in the shallow water.

Monodon monoceros, Linn. (Narwhal). — The "horns" of these animals
are frequently brought to the Hudson's Bay posts by Eskimo from
Hudson Strait and the north part of Hudson bay.

Alee Amerieanus, Jardine (Moose). — It is very doubtful if this species
enters the south-west limits of Labrador from the head-waters of the
Ottawa River, where it is found abundantly.

318 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Jiaiiyifer caribou, Linn. (Woodland Caribou). — Within the past
twenty-five years the woodland caribou was plentiful throughout the
southern wooded region, but now is practically exterminated on the
southern watershed, being met only in small numbers about the heads of
the rivers flowing into the eastern part of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. In
1892, along the route from Lake St. John to Mistassini, and from there
to the mouth of the East Main River, not a single deer track was
seen. In 1885, the last herd of seven caribou was killed in the vicinity
of Lake Mistassini. A few woodland caribou are annually killed
about the head-waters of the East Main River and Nichicun post. On
the upper Hamilton River this species is still met with in small bands,
but, according to the Indians the numbers at present killed are only a
small percentage of the numbers annually slaughtered a few years
past This extermination of the caribou is very detrimental to the
interior Indians, who in former times depended largely upon them
both for food and clothing. Notwithstanding the quantity of flour
now brought inland, and the fish caught and preserved for winter use,
cases of starvation are of annual occurrence from the lack of animal
food in place of the deer meat. In 1892, a deserted camp where a
dozen persons had died of starvation two years previously, was passed
on the East Main River. The survivors — a woman and a boy — told
the usual tale of failure to find deer and consequent starvation. There
appears to be no remedy for this except the abandonment of the in-
terior by a large proportion of the Indians, with the total suppression
of caribou hunting for a number of years. This is probably not prac-
ticable, and the Indians of the interior will consequently, it is feared,
continue to die ofiF.

The astonishing rate at which the fur-bearing and other animals
multiply when undisturbed, was noted along the East Main River,
where, owing to tne death of Indians above mentioned, no hunt had been
made for two years — and in that short interval the beavers hrd over-
stocked the small streams, and were common all along the main river.

Rangifer Groenlandicus, Linn. (Barren-ground Caribou, "Reindeer"),
— This species ranges in immense herds over the barren and semi-bar-
ren grounds. On the Atlantic coast, caribou of this variety are found
south to the Mealy Mountains, a high barren range between Hamilton
Inlet and Sandwich Bay. To the northward they are more or less
common and at certain seasons of the year very plentiful about Davis
Inlet anil Nain. On the Hudson Bay coast they were formerly very
abundant as far south as Cape Jones or the mouth of James Bay, but
of late years they are found only in small numbers north of Gieat
Whale River.

J

•]

APPENDIX I.

319 L

t

From infoiination obtained from the Nascaupoe Indians and others,
the reindeer is believed to spend the summer season on the barren
highlands near the coast, where the strong breezes keep down the pest
of flies. In the autumn they migrate inland and southward into the
semi-barrens, returning to the true barrens again in the months of
April and May. In the northern part of the peninsula there appear
to be three distinct herds, one on the Atlantic coast, that passes the
summer on the highlands between Nachvak and Nain ; a second,
which crosses the lower part of the Koksoak River and summers on
the west side of the Ungava Bay and Hudson Strait ; and a third,
which passes northwfird from the vicinity of Richmond Gulf and
Clearwater Lake, and summers along the highlands of the north-east
coast of Hudson Bay. Of late years, this last herd has become very
small, and many of the Indians who lived on it have migrated from
Hudson Bay to Fort Chimo, while the second herd was undiminished.
The first herd supports the Indians living on the George River, and
almost all from the Hamilton River. The principal hunt is made
during the fall migration, when fehe bucks are fat and have not yet
mated with the females. The Indians congregate along the George
River, about a hundred miles beyond Lake Michikamau. They spread
out along the river and await the crossing of the bands of deer on
their way from the coast to the wooded country. As soon as a large
body begins to cross, signals of smoke are made, and the Indians soon
congregate and kill great numbers from their canoes by spearing them
while in the water. The season for ciossing lasts from ten to fifteen
days. Much of the flesh is smoked for winter use, while the skins are
px'eserved and dressed, either for clothing and other purposes or for
sale. In the spring the deer migrate in small bands and are not so
easily taken, as the snow and ice are then beginning to melt and they
have to be killed by shooting after a chase. The migration of the second
band is similar to that already described, except that during the fall
migration small herds are continually crossing backwards and forwards
along the river. Wide paths, caused by a single passage of the deer
were met with along the Koksoak River as far south as Cambrian
Lake, and smaller paths as far as Lake Kaniapiskau, where a small
number of the reindeer appear to remain throughout the summer. ' A
couple of large paths were found on the Ashuanipi branch of the
Hamilton River, and in the spring a number of tracks, made by small
herds, were encountered below .the Grand Falls. Periodically, the
reindeer omit to return to the wooded areas from the barrens, and
when this happens the Indians depending on them are left in a most
lamentable condition, being largely without food and clothing. Many
die of starvation in consequence unless outside aid is given. The

320 L

LABRADOR PENIN8ULA.

death of over 150 persons along the Kokaoak River during the winter
of 1893, is but one of several such calamities which have happened
during the last fifty years. In the evidence given before the com-
mittee of the Hudson's Bay Company, 1851, a letter was read from
Wm. Kennedy as follows : " Starvation has, I learn, committed groat
havoc among our old friends the Nascopies, numbers of whom met
their death from want last winter ; whole camps of them were found
dead, without one survivor to tell the tale of their suflFerings."

Ovibos moschntus, Zimmermann (Musk Ox.) — There is no evidence
to show that the musk ox was ever found in Labrador.

Veapertilio luci/vgiia, Leconte (Blunt-nosed Bat). — A small bat is
common in the southern portion of the peninsula, having been seen on
the Hamilton River and at Lake Mistassini, and it is suppufied to
be referable to this species.

Vespertilio subniatus, Say, is reported by Stearns from Natashquan.

Sorex p 'tonalns, Geoffroy St. Hilaire (S. Cooperi, Baird^. — This
small shrew was obtained at Sandwich Bay.

SciiiropteruK volucdla, Pallas, var. Hudsonius, Gmel. (Northern
Flying Squirrel. — Common in the valley of the lower Hamilton River
and about the head of Hamilton Inlet. Found at St. Augustine
(Stearns).

Sciurus Hudaoniun, Pallas (Red Squirrel). — Found throughout the
southern wooded region as far north as the East Main River, and to
the westward ; on the Hamilton River from its mouth to Sandgirt
Lake, and southward on the Attikonak Branch, but not along the
Ashuanipi Branch.

Arctomys monax, Linn. (Woodchuck, Ground-hog). — Common in the
country between Lake St. John and the East Main River, and on the
Romaine River. Not seen on the Hamilton River, but said to be
found about the head of Hamilton Inlet. " Common at Mingan,
growing scarce towards Bonne Esperance " (Stearns).

Castor fiber, Linn. (Beaver). — Common in the wooded region and
extending into the semi-barrens where food is found. On the Hudson
Bay coast, rare north of Big River. In 1887 a specimen was killed in
Richmond Gulf, latitude 56°. Charleton Island, in James Bay, was
well-stocked with beaver introduced by the Hudson's Bay Company,
but they were totally exterminated by wandering Eskimo in 1890.
As before stated, beaver are very plentiful on the Lower East Main
River. About Nichicun they are now more plentiful than formerly.

low.

]

APPENDIX I.

321 L

Common about the Lower Hamilton River and upwards to Sandgirt
Lake, becoming very rare to the northward towards Lake Michikamau.

lli'i*i)friiiin)H /eiiropns, Kafinesque (VVhite-foote a- Deer Moune). —
Common at Noithwest l{iver, Hudson's Bay post.

Arvifola ryxtrius, Ord. — Specimen taken on Upper Hamilton River
near Lake Petitsikapau. The Indians report a smaller species as not
rare in the interior wooded country.

(Jniilciihts to7'(/uaiiis, Pallas. (Hudson Bay Lemming). — Common
throughout the i)airen ground and southward to about latitude 54".
Specimen obtained tiom Lake Michikamau.

Zapits I/ui/sonius, (Zimmerraann) Coues, (Jumping Mouse). — Not
rare in the wooded region. Specimens taken at the mouth of the
Hamilton Kiver. near the Grand Falls, and on the Romaine IJiver
poi'tages. The Indians who saw these specimens say that thei'e is a
much smaller species found in the interioi', which closely resembles the
larger, except in size.

Fiber zUtelh if itfi, Linn. (Muskrat). — Common in the southern-wooded
region, but rare along the Upper Hamilton River.

Eri'thhon dorsatns, Linn. (Canada Porcupine). — Banges from the
St. Lawrence northward into the semi-barrens. Very plentiful along
the Hamilton Itiver, where it is largely used for food by the Indians;
Common at Hamilton Inlet, and northwaid to Hopedale. Traces
seen along the Great Whale River, and also on the Koksoak River,
above Cambiian Lake.

Li'jms timidus, Linn., var. arcticus, Leach. (Polar Hare). — Confined
to the barren and semi-barren lands of Labrador. On the Hudson
Bay coast a few are taken about Great Whale River. On the Atlan-
tic they occur southward as far as Hamilton Inlet. A few are killed
about Lake Michikamau.

Lepus Aiiiericditus, Erxleben (Hare. "Rabbit"). — Found throughout
the wooded legion. Like the western rabbit, it is visited periodically
with an infectious throat-disease, which about once in five years practi-
cally exterminates the animal. The disease apparently travels from the
west towards the east and takes about two years to cross I^abrador.
The rabbit is largely used for food by the Indians, but is not sustain-
ing, and they all say that on a diet of rabbits alone they rapidly
become weak and unfit for work.

21

'\

A

ii

APPENDIX II.

List op Birds op thk Intekiok of tiik LAnRAOOR Peninsula.

Urinator imber, Gunn. (Loon). — Common throughout the interior ;
breeds.

Urinator lumme, Ounn. (Red-throated Loon). — Common on upper
Hamilton River and Koksoak River ; breeds.

Urinator arcticut, Linn. — Seen June 3rd at Laku Mistassini ; not
common.

Uria troile, Linn. (Murre). — Common in open water of Hamilton
Inlet until January 20th, 1894.

Alle alle, Linn. (Dovekie). — Very common in Hamilton Inlet until
January 20th, 1894. Numbers of this and the preceding found frozen
in bushes along the edge of the open water.

Gavia alba, Gunn. (Ivory Gull). — Specimen obtained at Rigolet,
where it was shot during the winter ; seen at Northwest River late
in December after the inlet was frozen ; not common.

Larus (jlauctia, Brunn. (Glaucous Gull). — Common thi'oughout the
interior; seen May 19th ; eggs June 14th.

Larua Delatvarenais, Ord. — Nests at Mistassini Lake ; seen June
11th.

Sterna Forsteri, Nutt. (Forster's Tern). — Common throughout
interior ; seen June 13th, Hamilton River, June ist, Mistassini.

Merganser Atnericanus, Cass. (American Merganser). — Common
throughout interior ; seen May 28th ; eggs June 25th.

Merganser serrator, Linn. (Red-breasted Sheldrake). — Abundant
throughout the interior ; seen May 28th ; eggs June 25th.

Anas obscura, Gmel. (Black Duck). — Not common throughout the
interior ; seen May 1st ; eggs May 23rd.

Glaucionetta dangtda Americana, Bp. (American Golden-eye). — A
few flocks seen on upper Hamilton River durinj,' June ; seen at Mis-
tassini May 3rd.

Somateria svectabilis, Linn. (King Eider). — One specimen killed at
Lake Mistassini.

Oidemia Americana, Sw. and Rich. (American Scoter). — Common on
Hamilton River, May and June, in migration ; seen May 26th.

21|

I

.124 L

LAIlHADOIl PKNISHITLA.

Oidfuiia ptfuplrUfitta, Linn (Hiirf Duck). — Connnon on Haiiiilton
Iliver (luring migration, May and Juno ; nocn May 'JOth.

Jh'itiifii ('(tiKidi'ii/tln, Linn. (Civniida Ooosi'). — HrecdH in imiu'mIu'ii
tliniuf^liout till) nurtiii'i'ii interior, atid in stn-n iilon^ tlio I'ivers witli
young l)rood.s about July Lst ; seen at Mistaswini May :,'n(i, at Grand
I'alis, Hamilton Itivpr, May ttli. From the journals of tiie Hudson's
Bay Company, tiic; avoragodato of lirjJt arrival at Lake Winokapau and
Northwest Kivor, is May lOtii ; several lar;;e hiHjods 8oen on Murnt
Lakes, Komaini^ River; not eomnion at T^ako Mistassini, but abuiulant
on East Main Kiver — (^spocially on lower part, where the river is eut
out of elays, with good bottomlands ; breeds in largo numbers on the
islands of James Hay.

Branfa hn'nic/a, Linn. (Brant). — Vevy rare in the intcM'ior ; one sick
killed at Mistassini .luly 2nd. If these birds cro-s Labradoi- in their
northern mignition, they lly high and only iiirely rest, as the Indians,
who know them well on the St. Lawrence coast, repoit them very rare
in the interior,

A'l/rflciirn.r ni/c/icomr, naTinti, Allen (filack-crowned Night-Heron),
— Single specimen at Lake Mistassini, August Gth.

Plialaropnx lolintus, Linn. (Northern Phalarope). — Seen on upper
Hamilton Uiver, .June llith. Not common.

(lallinago delicata, Ord. (Wilson's Snipe). — Male heard and seen at
Lake Petitsikapau, Hamilton Iliver, June 28th.

Trint/ii tninutiUa, Vieill. (Least Sandpiper). — Common about Upper
Hamilton Iliver. Breeds.

Totnuns nielanoleiicun, Gmel. ((Jreater Yellow Legs). — Met with
occasionally throughout the interior Breeds. Seen ^lay 31st.

Totanns flavipea, Gmel. (Yellow Legs). — Seen only after August 1st,
on Hamilton Iliver and at Mistassini.

TotauHH iioHtariitx, Wils. (Solitary Sandpiper). — Common through-
out the interior, especially south of latitude .'54°. Breeds. Seen May
27th. Eggs June 19th.

Acdtis macularia, Linn. (Spotted Sandpiper). — Common along the
upper Hamilton River. Seen May 27th. Eggs June 20th.

^Egialitu mniiipalinata, Caban. (Semipalmated Plover). — Common
on Upper Hamilton River. Seen Juno IGth. Breeds.

Dendrafjapns Canadensis, Linn. (Canada Grouse, Spruce Par-
tridge).— Common throughout wooded and in the semi-barrens. Eggs
June 1st.

•1

APPRHPIX II.

?2B L

'

Jiitnnm iDiihfilluH togata, Linn. (Kuniud (IrouHC, " Partridge." Hirch
Part I idf{»>), — Common at MistnHHini. Not rare at moutli of Hamilton
Hiver. Not found on Upper Hjimilton IMver.

Lnijopus higopuH, Linn (Willow Ptarmigan). — Common tlirouKli-
out the winter. Breeds on Upj)er Hamiltcn Hiver. Ki^j^s Juno Srtth.

Laijnpiig rii/i'striii, (iin. (Hock Ptarmipui). — Common in valley of
Hamilton Hiver during winter. I^eaven for northward aliout April
Iflth.

Ei'top'iHti'H mlyrafonus, Linn. (Passen^jor Pigeon), — Very rare.
Eg>{H obtained at Fort George, 1S87.

A''riplf'-r nfficapilhiK, Wils. (.Vmerican OoHhawk). — Specimen
killed near Cumbrian Luke, Koknouk Hiver ; also on lower Hamilton
Hiver. Not common.

Ai/iiifn chrymi-tn , Linn. (Colden Eagle). — Jlreeds at head of Lake
Michikamau. Heen in several places along upper Hamilton Hiver.

//(i/ldetiiH fi'iicoo'/ihahis, Linn, (liald luiglc),— A pair seen on
Hamilton River below Grand Falls, April L'8th. White heads dis"
tinctly seen.

Fa/i'o rusllcn/ii8 nhsnlehm, Gmel. (Labrador Oyrfalcon). — Specimen
shot at Cape Chidley.

Fa/cn peregriniis analuiit, Bon. (Duck Hawk). — Not uncommon
throughout the interior.

PaiidionhnlidetiiH dnrolrnenna, Om. (Osprey). — Common through-
out southern interior, to lat. 54°. Seen May 27th. Eggs June llith.
Nest on top of lai'ge white spruce.

Aaio nccipitrinus, Pall. (Short-eared Owl). — Seen on Upper Hamil-
ton and Romaine rivers.

Nyclale Acadica, Gmel. (Saw-whet Owl). — Specimen shot near Lake
Mistassini.

Bubo Virginianus saturatua, Ridgw. (Dusky Horned Owl). — Com-
mon al)out Northwest River during winter. Common in the interior.

Surnia nlnln caparoch, Miill. (American Hawk Owl). — Seen several
times on Upper Hamilton River.

(Jeryle alcyon, Linn. (Belted Kingfisher). — Was not found north of
the vicinity of the Grand Falls, Hamilton River. Common on Romaine
River and at Lake Mistassini. Seen May 30th.

Dryohates villosua lencome/as, Bodd. (Hairy Woodpecker). — Shot
in valley of Hamilton River in March. Not rare.

Dryobates pubescens, Linn. (Downy Woodpecker) — Common on
Hamilton River throughout the year.

326 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Picoides arcticns, Swains. (Black-backed Three-toed Woodpecker).
— Common alonj; Lower Hamilt'^n River.

Colaptes auratus, Linn. (Yellow-shafted Flicker). — Single specimen
seen near Grand Falls, Hamilton River, 30th May.

Chordeiles Virginianus, Gmel. (Night-hawk). — Very rare on Upper
Hamilton River. Single specimen se«5n near the Grand Falls, May
31st. Common at Mistassini and along Romaine River.

Empidona.v flavivf-nfris, Baird. (Yellow-bellied Fly Catcher). — Com-
mon at Lake Mistassini. Not seen at Hamilton River.

Otocoris alpestris. Linn. (Horned Lark). — Common on barrens of
Upper Hamilton River and about Lake Michikauiau. — Eggs June 1 9th.

Ppriboreus Canadensis, Linn. (Canada Jay). — Very common through-
out the interior. Nest with four eggs taken at Rigolet March 24th,
1894 ; and another at North-west River, with three eggs, about the
same date. Young able to fly from nest on May 18th, at Grand Falls,
Hamilton River.

Perisoreiis Canadensis nigricapilJus, Ridgw. (Labrador Jay). —
Abundant throughoui .—them interior.

Corvus corax principalis, Ridgw. — Common throughout the inli rior.
Resident.

Molothrus ater. Gray. (Cowbird). — Common at Lake Mistassini.

Scohcophagus Carolinns, Miill. (Rusty Black Bird). — Common
throughout the interior.

Pinicola enucleator, Linn. (Pine Grosbeak). — Common on the
Upper Hamilton River. Male seen May 1st.

Lo.via leucopter<(. Gmel. (White-winged Cro.ss-bill). — Common on
Hamilton River in March and April.

Acanthis linaria, Linn. (Common Redpoll). — Abundant about the
Hamilton River.

PlectropLsnax nivalis, Linn. (Snow Bunting). — Plentiful on Hamil-
ton River in early spring.

Calcarins Lapponicns, Linn. (Lapland Longspur). — Common on Ham-
ilton River in early spring.

Ammodramns Sandivichensis Savanna, Wils. (Savannah Sparrow).
^Very common on upper Hamilton River. Eggs June 24th.

Zonotrichia Leucophrys, Forst. (White-Crowned Sparrow). — Very
common on upper Hamilton River. Seen May 16th. Eggs June 25th.

Zonotrichia albicoUis, Gmel. (White-throated Sparrow). — Common
at Lake Mistassini. Heard at Grand Falls, Hamilton River. Com-
mon on the Romaine River.

5

•J

APPENDIX II.

327 L

*

5

SpizeUa monticola, Ginel. (Tree Sparrow). — Common everywhere in
Labrador. Breeds in great numbers on upper Hamilton River. Seen
May 31st ; eggs June 21st.

Juiico hyemalia, Linn. (Black Snow-bird). — Common at Lake Mis-
tassini and upper Hamilton River. Seen May 29th. Eggs June 27th.

Jfelospiza fasciata, Scott (Song Sparrow). — Common at Lake Mis-
tassini.

Tachycineta bieolor, Vieill. (White-bellied Swallow). — Common
througliout the interior. Seen May 25th.

Ampeli.8 cedronim, Vieill. (Cedar Wax-wing). — Rare at Lake Mis-

tassini.

Lanius borealis, Vieill. (Great Northern Shrike). — Common on
Hamilton River ; seen April 16th.

Ilehninthophaga peregina, Wils. (Tennessee Warbler). — Not rare at
Lake Mistassini.

Dendroira o'.itiva, Gmel. (Yellow Warbler). — Common at Lake Mis-
sassini ; seen near Grand Falls, Hamilton River, May 31st.

^endroica coronata, Linn. (Myrtle Warbler). — Specimen from
Grand Falls, Hamilton River, May 31st.

Di'ndroica macidosa, Gmel. (Magnolia Warbler). — Not rare at Lake
Mistassini.

D<'ndroica striata, Forst. (Black-poll Warbler). — Common on upper
Hamilton River. Seen May 31st.

Seiurus Xovehoracensis, Gmsl. (Water Thrush). — Common about
Grand Falls, Hamilton River. Seen May 31st.

Syh-ania pusilla, Wils. (Black-capped Yellow Warbler). — Seen near
Grand Falls, Hamilton River, May 31st. Not rare at Lake Mistassini.

I'arus HndsonicHS, Forst. (Hudsonian Chickadee). — Abundant on
Hamilton River from April 1st.

Beffulns satrapa, Licht. (Golden-crowned Kinglet). — Common on
Hamilton River between Grand Falls and Sandy Lake ; rare to north-
ward; seen May 19th.

Engulus calfndnhi, Linn. (Ruby-crowned Kinglet). — Very common
along Hamilton River between Grand Falls~and Sandy Lake. Seen
May 29th.

Turdus ustulatus Sirainsonii, Caban. (Olive-backed Thrush). — Very
common along the upper Hamilton River. Seen May 16th. Eggs
June 30th.

328 L

LABRADOR PENIXSULA.

Tnrdus Aonalaschhv I'lJhisii, Caban. (Hermit Tluush). — Not rare
at Lake Mistassiiii.

Merti/a migrntorhi, Linn. (American Robin). — Abundant through-
out the interior. Seen May 10th. Eggs June 13th.

I

APPENDIX III.

List of the principal Food Fishes of the Labrador Peninsula,
WITH Short Notes on their Distribution.

Petromyzon (sp.) — A small Lampre)' was taken on the Bersiniis
River a few miles below Lake Pipmaukin, 1884, adhering to a large
brook trout.

Accipenser (sp.) — Aspecies of Sturgeon is very plentiful in the Rupert
River, being taken in large quantities at Lake Nemiskau, where the
Indians congregate and dry the fish during September. The fish here
are usually under three feet in length. Also abundant in the river
from Lake Nemiskau to its mouth. Common in the East Main River,
from its mouth to Conglomerate Gorge. Also found in the lower
part of the George River and in the Nottaway at Lake Obatogaman,
near its head.

Catostomus longirostrin, LeSueur (Long-nosed Sucker, Northern
Sucker), — Common in rivers and lakes throughout the interior. The
principal food of the Indians in many parts of Labrador.

Catostomus Forsteriaims, Richardson. (Red Sucking Carp, Red
Sucker). — This is usually regarded as a variety of the above, but Sir
John Richardson gives it as a distinct species, and the fish found
in Labrador is quite distinct in shape, size of scales and colour,
from the first-named sucker. It is at least two weeks later on the
spawning beds. Common throughout the interior. Preferred by the
Indians for food to the gray sucker. Average weight of both species
about 5 pounds.

Osmerus mordax (Mitohill), Gili. (American Smelt). — Common at
the mouth of the Northwest River, Hamilton Inlet, where it is
abundantly taken in November and the early part of December.

CoreyoHus dupeifonnis (Mitchill), Milner (Common Whitelish). —
Found abundantly throughout the interior, in lakes and rivers. Largest
fish taken in Lake Mistassini, 14 pounds weight. Average weight 3 or
4 pounds. A small species of whitefish closely resembling the common
whitefish is caught in abundance in the shallow salt water along the
east coast of James Bay. These fish ascend the rivers of James Bay
during the autumn months along with sea trout.

Srtlmo salar, Linn. (Common Atlantic Salmon). — Abundant in the
.livers of the St. Lawrence and the Atlantic coasts and also in the rivers

330 L

laurador peninsula.

flowing into Ungava Bay. Reported by Di . R. Bell, as taken by Eskimo
at Stupart Bay, at the western side of Ungava Bay or Hudson Strait.
The salmon enter the rivers of the 8t. Lawrence coast early in June,
are taken in Hamilton Inlet in July, but do not ascend the Koksoak
and other rivers of Ungava Bay until about the middle of August.
From this there would appear to be some connection between the
time at which the tish strike into the rivers and the temperature of
the water along the coast, that to the northward rising more slowly
than the southern wo,ters ; or else the fish follow northward along
the coast and take at least two months to pass from the Strait of Belle
Isle to Ungava Bay. There is no evidence, however, to show that the
fish thus follow the coast. The time at which the salmon enter
Ungava Bay from the Atlantic and the absence of this species from
Hudson Bay, would seem to show that the waters of the western
part of Hudson Strait do not rise sutticiently in temperature to
allow the salmon to enter Hudson Bay in time to ascend its rivers
before the spawning season, and this is the probable cause why no
Atlantic salmon have been are found in its rivers.

The land-locked variety of S. salar, or ouinaniche, is found in Lake
St. John and the tributaries of the Saguenay River, where it has
free access to the sea, but as the same tish was found plentifully in
both branches of the Hamilton River, above the Grand Falls with its
sheer drop of 300 feev, it is certainly land-locked there. It is also
common in the Koksoak River below Lake Kaniapiskau, above perpen-
dicular falls of eighty feet and sixty if^x Common in Lake Michi-
kamau on the head of the Northwest River. It is also reported by
the Indians as numerous in the upper George River, the Romaine
River the Manicuagan and several other of the rivers flowing into the
Gulf of St. Lawrence. It has not yet been reported from the rivers of
the western watershed. Average weight of the fish caught, not above
three pounds. The Indians report that the largest in the Hamilton
River do not exceed ten pounds in weight.

Salmo Hearnii, Richardson (Hearne's Salmon). — A small salmon,
with bright red spots on its sides, is found along the northern east
coast of Hudson Bay, and probably belongs to this species. Its south-
ern limit is a small river a few miles south of Cape Jones. It is taken
in nets set in the salt water near Long Island, just north of Cape
Jones, and also in some small streams flowing into Richmond Gulf.
The Eskimo also report it common in some of the ri\ ers north of
Richmond Gulf.

SalveJinus namayriish (Walbaum), Goode (Great Lake Trout). —Very
plentiful in all the larger lakes of the interior northward to Hudson

•]

APPENDIX III.

331 L

y

ii

Strait. Very abundant in the lake-expansions of the Hamilton River
and Lake Michikamau. Average weight about 8 pounds, but many
taken more than 25 pounds in weight.

Salvelinua fontinalis (Mitchill),Gill and Jordan (Brook Trout). — This
fish is abundant in many of the rivers and lakes of the Labrador Penin-
sula. Sea-run fish of this species are plentiful along the shores and
lower parts of the rivers from the St. Lawrence to the southern part of
James Bay. On the Atlantic coast and Ungava Bay, they are par-
ticularly plentiful and of large size. Along these coasts the mouth of
every river swarms with trout during the late summer and autumn.
The largest fish reported was taken at Nachvak and weighed fourteen
pounds. In the Koksoak and George rivers, the average weight of the
sea-run trout is about seven pounds. In Hamilton Inlet, there is less
change in the sea-run fish than along the coast. At Northwest River
the fish are small and do not average over one pound in weight. Here
they were freely taken with a fiy, up to the middle of December, when
the mouth of the river was frozen over. In the mouth of the Hamil-
ton River, sea-run trout average abo'it three pounds in weight.

In James Bay, the trout taken along the coast and in the lower parts
of the rivers are generally small and do not exceed two pounds in
average weight. Between the lowest falls and the upper waters of the
western rivers, brook trout are rarely taken, but in the northern, east-
ern and many of the southern rivers they are abundant along their
entire length.

In the Koksoak River, for a few miles below Lake Kaniapiskau,
large trout were abundant, but lower down they became smaller, until
the sea-run fish were met with. On the Hamilton River, below the
Grand Falls, the trout do not average over one pound in weight.
Above the falls, the fish are much larger, and average more than three
pounds in weight, while fish of five pounds and seven pounds are
common. On the Romaine River, no trout were taken until the Burnt
Lakes were passed, when they became plentiful, though small. Outside
of the rivers and small streams, this species is found abundantly in
most of the numberless lakes throughout the interior. Two varieties
are met with everywhere ; one has pink flesh, the other yellow, the
former having the finest flavour.

EnD.ii I Hfins, Linn. (Pike). — This fish is found abundan ly throughout
the interior in the lakes and quiet-flowing streams ; common on the
rivers of the southern, eastern and western watersheds ; not so abund-
ant in the Koksoak River. It varies in weight from two to fifteen
pounds.

332 L

|\

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Anguilla (Sp). — Thi Indians report eels as common in the upper
Romaine River.

.S'<ito«/ec?i*'wvi<reH?n(Mitchill), JoriIanandCopelancl(\Vall-e3'ed Pike,
Dore, "Perch" of the Hudson Bay Co). — Common in the southern rivers
flowing into Lake St. John amd to the westward, also in the Rupert
and East Main rivers of the western watershed. Rare in the Bet-
siamites River, and not found east of that stream, being unknown to
the Indians of Mingan. Not found in the Big River, or streams to
the north of it, nor in the rivers of the eastern or northern watersheds.
Average weight, three pounds.

Lota maculosa (Le Sueur), Cuvier and Valenciennes (Ling, LaLoche,
Maria). — Common in all the deep lakes throughout the interior. An
important source of food for the Indians, owing to its taking bait freely
during the winter months, when other fish cannot be car^ht. Weight,
two pounds to fifteen pounds.

Gadus callarias, Linn. (Common Cod-fish). — Plentiful along the
St. Lawrence and Atlantic coasts to Cape Chidley. also along the
east shore of Ungava Bay to the mouth of George River. The follow-
ing abstract from the Census of Newfoundland (1891) will show the
extent and value of the cod-fishing of the Atlantic coast : —

"10,478 men, 2081 women and 828 childrai were employed in the
fishery in 861 vessels, of which the tonnage amounted to 33,689 tons.
The total catch of codfish amounted to 488,788 quintals." Fishing
beyond Cape Chidley, along the east coast of Ungava Bay, was not
undertaken until 1893, when a Newfoundland steamer was so succe.ss-
ful that in 1894 two steamers and three schooners made successful
catches in the neighbourhood of Port Burwell. The Eskimo report
cod as being plentiful about the mouth of George River in the month
of August. It is at present unknown whether this fish enters Hudiron
Bay, and it is a question which should speedilj' be settled by a properly
equipped vessel, as valuable fisheries in the northern part of that
great body of water may be lying idle for want of proper information
■concerning them.

'

APPENDIX IV.

List of Insects collectkd in the Interior op the Labrador

Peninsula, 1894. Determined nv Dr. Jas. Fletcher,

Dominion Entomologist.

J

LEPIDOPTERA.

Arrjynuis Atlantis, Edw 16fch July .1 specimen.

CImridm, Ochs 16th July 6 "

" Triclaris, Hbii 8th to 16th July 4 "

ChioHofian Jutta, Hbn 1 "

Lycirna Lucia, Kirby 26th to 28th May 5 "

CoJiaa Scudderii, Ueak 20th to 27th July 7 "

Papilio Tnrnns, L 10th July 4 "

Pyrgna Cenfauriic, Ramb 18th June to 16th July . . 7 '*

Laria Jiosnii, Curtis 12th May 2 "

B/ieumaptera hastata, L 20th July

Agrotis (?) 19th July

COLEOPTERA.

195. Nehrin Sahlhergi, Fish 1 specimen.

206. Pelophila Ulkei, Horn 5 "

Agabns (?)

Pti'i-osticlms (?)

1706. Silpha Lapponica, Hbst 2 specimens.

1490. Dytiscus dauricus, Gebl 2 "

3059. Coccine/fa trtmsversogiittata, Fab 2 "

4787. Eros aurora, Hbst 1 "

4901. Podabras piniphilus, Esch 1 "

6273. Aoiueops proteiis, Kirby 2 "

6452. Pogoiiocherns penicel/atuf, Lee 1 "

6557. Syneta ferruginea. Germ 1 "

6843. (ronioctena jjallida, L 2 "

Note. — Insect life is not abundant in the interior of the Labrador
Peninsula, luul 'the above list probably represents over half of the
species of Lepidoptera and Coleoptera commonly found about the
region drained by the upper Hamilton River. A few more butter-
flies were seen of which specimens could not be obtained, but in all
they did not make more than three or four extra species.

APPENDIX V.

Notes ox the Microscopic Structure of some Rocks from the
Lahrauor Peninsula.

DV

W. F. FERRIER, B. A. Sc, F.G.S.,

LitlinloijUt, (Icoloijicul Snnrii of Cutuida.

introductory remarks.

The following notes on a series of thirty-four rock specimens, col-
lected bj Mr. A. P. Low in the Labrador Peninsula, in 1893, 1894
and 1895, are ofiFered as a contribution to our knowledge of the petro-
graphy of that little-known country.

It must be understood, however, that the proportions in which the
various rock types occur in the collection do not in any sense repre-
sent the relative frequency of occurrence of these types in the field.
Only such specimens as were of a doubtful character, or had some
special points of interest attaching to them, were selected by Mr. Low
for microscopic examination.

Of the 'thirty -four specimens examined, some fourteen are undoubted
diabases and gabbros of varying degrees of freshness. Eight others,
now mainly dioritic, have probably been derived from similar rocks by
alteration. One specimen (23) was apparently originally a diorite.
Three hornblende-schists or amphibolites (4, 16, 17) have been, without
doubt, produced by the crushing and shearing of basic eruptives.

Three of the diabases (32, 33, 34) have been already described by
Mr. A. E. Barlow,* and are of interest as containing decomposed
porphyritic crystals of plagioclase very similar to the " Huronite " of
Dr. Thompson.! Among the gneissic rocks the interesting hyper-
sthene syenite gn iss (6) may be specially noted.

The granites, quartz porphyries and syenites are not numerous in
thi collection, the two former being represented by a single specimen
each (19, 5), and the latter by two specimens (6, 21).

* On some Dykes containing Huronite. Ottawa Naturalist, vol. IX., No. 2, 18!(5.
t Thouipsou's Mineralogy, I., p. 384, 1836.

3.36 L

LABRADOR PKNINHULA.

The heiiutifully frusli felspar-free pyroxenito or hyperstlit'iiite (13)
is wortliy of special iiientioii us an oxoollent exninpio of these rocks,
which have Hclduin l)c(!ii met witli in Ounada.

The whi'e anortiiosite (24) is a typical example of its class, and
closely restinbles those desrrilied by Dr. Ailiims from the Saguenay
and Morin areas of Norian rocks.

Hocka of clastic origin art? represented in the collection by a Hno-
grained greywacke (9) which, in the hand specimen, might readily he
taken for an eruptive, and a much altered specimen (1) which may
possibly be an ash- rock.

The literature of the subject is not very extensive, and those papers
which enter into details regarding the rocks deal chietly with the
unorthosites.

A list of the principal papers and books which have appeared,
taken, with some additi> iS and alterations, from Dr. Ada;.i. spapeion
the Norian rocks of Canada,* is here appended : —

Adams, F. D.:—

Ueber das jVorian oder Ober-Laurentian von Canada. Stuttgart,
1893 ; also translation of same in Canndian Record of Science,
Vol. VI., 1895.
Barlow, A, L.: —

On some Dykes containing Huronite. Ottawa Naturalist, Vol. IX.,
No. 2, 189.5.
Baddeley, Lieut. (F. H.):—

Geology of a portion of the Labrador Coast. Trans. Lit. and Hist.
Soc. of Quebec, Vol. L, 1829.
Bayfield, Capt. : —

Notes on the Geology of the North Cot.stof the St. Lawrence. Trans.
Geol. Soc, London, Vol. V., 1833.

Bell, Robert :—

Observations on Geology, ^Mineralogy, Zoology and Botany of the
Labrador Coast, Hudson's Bay and Strait. Ann. Rep., Geol.
Surv. Canada, 1882 84.
The Labrador Peninsula. The Scottish Geographical Magazine,
Vol. XL, No. 7, 1895.
Cayley, Ed.: —

Up the River Moisie. Trans. Lit. and Hist. Soc. of Quebec, Vol.
V„ 1862.

*'U 'hi.'T das Xoriaii ocler Ob^rLaiirentiiin von Canada, Stuttgart, 181)3 : also trauH-
latif. . ^; Canadian Recorrl of Science, vol. VI., 180.").

AI'l'KNDI.V V.

337 L

Cohon, E.:—

Das Lal)i'ii(lni-it-filhren(ln Oeutein der Kiiste vou Luhrndur. Nouea
Jahrl). fiir Min., IHSf), I., p. 183.

Davies, W. H. A.:—
Notes on E8([uiinaux Bay and the surrouiuliiij{ Country. Trans.
Lit. and Hist. Soc. of Quebec, Vol. IV., 18J3.
Hind, H. Y.:—

Observations on Supposed Glacial Drift in the Labrador Peninsu'n,

etc. Q. J. (J. H., Jan., 1864.
E.Kplorations in the Interior of the Labrador Peninsuhi. London,
1863.

Jannasch, P.: —

Ueber die Loslichkeit des Labradors von der Paulinsei in Salzsilure.
NeuoH Jahrb. fiir Min., 1884, II., p. 42.
Lieber, O. M.: —

Die anierikanische astrononiische Expedition nach Labrador, im
Juli, 1860. Peterm. Mitth., 1801.
Low, A. P :—

On the Mistassini Expedition. Ann. Rep., Geol. Surv. Canada,

1885, Part D.
The Recent Exploiation of the Lalirador Peninsuhi. Canadian
Record of Science, Vol. VI., No. 3, 1894.

Packard, A. S.: —

Tlie Labrador Coast. London, 1861.

Ol)servation9 on the Glacial Phenomena of Labrador and Maine,

etc. Mem. Boston Soc. Nat. Hist., Vol. I., 1865.
Observations on the Drift Phenomena of Labrador. Canadian

Naturalist (New Series), Vol. II., 1805.
The Labrador Coast. London, 1891.
Puyjalon, H. de : —

Report on the ' Copper, etc., found to exist on the North Shore of

the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Report of Com. of Crown Lands,

Province of Quebec, 1883.
Report of Exploration for minerals on North Shore of the Gulf of

St. Lawrence. Report of Com. of Crown Lands, Province of

Quebec, 1884.
These two reports contain references to the anorthosites, syenites

and other rocks of the region.

lleichel, L. J.: —

Labrador, Bemerkungen iiber Land and Leute. Peterm. Mitth
1863.
•25

338 I.

LAIIIIADOH I'KNINHILA.

UioliiirdNoii, J,: —

Tho (Jfolo)<y of the Vicinity of Lake St. .John. Hep. Ut-ol. Hurv.

Caimdii, 18.'^7.
Thn (Jfology of the Lower 8t. Lawrencp. Hfp. Oeol. Hurv. Ciinadn,
18t)G-(i!»,

Hoth. .).: —

Ueber das Vorkommon von Liiljnulor. Sitz. Hcrliii. Akad.
XXVni., p. 097, 188.1
Selwyii. A. H. C:

Suiiimiiry Hcports of the Geol. Surv. Canadu, for ISTD-SO and 1889.
Helwyn, A. R. C, and Dawson, O. M.: —

Descriptivt' Skoich of tho Dominion of Canada. Published liy Oeol.
Suiv. Canada, 18S"J.

Steinliauer, M.: —

Note relative in the (leology of the Coa^t of Lilirador. Trans.
Geol. Hoc, London, Vol. II., 18U.
Van Ifise. 0. K.:—

Correlation Papers, Archiean and Algonkian. Hull. U. S. (ieol.
Hurv., No. 8G, p. 398, 1892.

Vogelsanj^, 11. : —

Sur ie Lahradorite Colore de la CAte du Labrador. ArchivL.s
N.'erlandaises, T. III., 186^.

Van Werveke, L.: —

Eijjentliiindiche Zwillingsbildungen am Feldspath und Diillng.
Neue.s .Jidu-b. fiir .Min., 1883, II., p. 97.
Wichmann, A.: —

Ueber (Jestcine von Labrador. Zeitschr. d. d. Geol. Ges., 1884,
p. 48G.
Wilkins, D. F. H.;—

Note on the Geology of the Labrador Coast. Canadian Naturalist.
(New Series), Vol. VIIL, 1878.
Williams. G. H.;—

Deseiibes Porphyritic Diabase or Diabase Porphyrite from Nach-
vak, and Hornblendic Pyroxenite from near Skynner's Cove,
Nachvak. Labrador. Ann. Rep., Geol. Surv. Canada, Vol. V., Part
L, 1890-91. Part F., Appendix I., Nos. 38 and 43.

DESCRIPTIONS OF THE ROCKS.

1. Ash Rock? — Outlet of Dyke Lake, Ashuanipi Branch, Hamilton
River.

!•»•]

APPKNPIX V.

339 I,

A (lurk colniiroti, flno Kniinod rock, Imving nn iiinyKfliilfiidal nppoiir-
Aiicf, duo 10 c'liilMxldod rouiulod little iimH><»'s of crysitiillim' oivliil«t with
HOIIU1 liiirdur iniiionil Htivinc-d red.

Thn rock oxiiitiits iniperfoct ]mrtiiiKB ntui hiia purpliyriticuUy'de-
velopod I>isilicntu8 Hciittorod through it, now much d(!eoinpoH*><l.

Uiidor th« mieroHcopo it is seen to bo composed of ii roufusod mass
of Rt'i'ondary iron oro, chlorite, opidotc, c/ilcite, etc., with Hoino snuill,
quitt! frosli, porphyritic hornblende crystals, which have good cleavage
and somewhat sharp crystal outlines.

Owing to the extreme alteration of nearly nil its constituents, it is
impossible to refei' the rock with certainty to any particular type, but
I am inclined to think that it may be a bedded ash rock,

2, Uhalitic Oahduo, ou GAnnno Diouitk. — Great Bend, East Main
River.

A dark green, fine-grained, laminated rock, somewhat mottled with
white calcite, and having [)yri»e plentifully scattered through it.

In the thin section it if seen to be much altere<i, s(|ueezed, and
sheared, producing very unf ven extinction in its constituent minerals.

It possesses a crystalline granitic structure, and consists chiefly of
plagioclase, hornblende, magnetite, quartz, pyrite, apatite, epid te and
chlorite.

The plagioclase is in nllotriomorphic individuals which are almost
entirely saussuritized, but still retain traces of the original twinning
striation, and are frequently penetrated by .slender little crystals of
apatite.

The hornblende, which has every appearance of bein.j secondary in
origin, is the "compact"* variety so characteristic of those rocks which
have been subjected to metamorphism. It is green in colour and
strongly pleochroic, with Ji = greenish-yellow, ^ = yellowish-green, and
( = bluish-green. Teallt has pointed out that this development of
hornblende at the expense of augite or diallage in basic igneous rocks
in regions not affected by contact metamorphism, is one of the most
definitely estaV)lished facts in petrographical science.

The hornblende of this rock occurs in irregular aggregates of grains
having no uniform orientation. Some ([uartz, apparently secondary,
much cracked, and with very uneven extinction, is present, and pyrite
is exceedingly abundant.

• That is, hoinogencouH, ncitlier fibrous, nor actinulitic.
t British retrogrnphy, 1888, i). 161.

22J

3i0 L

LABRADOR PKNINSULA.

This combination of saussurite and secondary "compact"' liorn-
blende, as the result of the alteration of gabbros, is vei-y characteristic
and has, frequently been described.

3. Diabase, hioiily altered. — Head of Dyke Lake, Ashuanipi
Branch, Hamilton River.

A dark gray, fine- •••ained, rusty-weathering rock, holding numerous
su dl white oval patches, consisting cliietly of ca'cite, which give it a
decidedly porphyritic appearance. Smaller, dark coloured porphyrit'^
forms also occur, wliicii were probably augites.

On weathered surfaces the rock has a cavernous appearance, due to
che removal of the calcite in the oval areas referred to above.

As seen in the tliiu section, the rock is much altered and filled
throughout with crystalline calcite.

Small, interlacing, lath-shaped crystals of {jLagioclase make up tlio
bulk of the section, giving to it a decided ophitic structure, and it is
thickly sprinkled with little granules of secondary iron ore and scales of
chlorite. Comparatively large patches of calcite and chlorite represent
what were probably originally phenocrysts of plagioclase andaugite.

The rock is apparently a much altered and highly calcareous diabase.

4. Hornblende Schist, probablv resulting from the shearing
OP SOME basic eruptive. — Jacopie Lake, Hamilton River.

A rather light green, fine-grained, glossy, chloritic schist, with inter-
calated red felspathic layers, and very wavy and crinkled lamination.

]^Uc''oscopic examination shows that it has been subjected to intense
shearing action, the hornblende being all pulled-out, and the larger
plagioclase fragments occurring in elongated streams of finely-granu-
lated material of the same kind.

The principal minerals present are hornblende, felspar (both striated
and non-striated), chlorite, epidote, a little quartz, and a very little
iron ore and titanite.

Scroaks of finely-granulated felspar, evidently derived from the
breaking-up of larger individuals, fragments of which still occur dis-
tributed through the granulated material, alternate with wavy streaks
of hornblende pulled-out in the same manner from larger individuals.
These hornblende layers wind around the larger fragments of felspar
in such a manner as to give a regular "flow-structure" to the section.

In one instance a large felspar individual lies almost at right angles
to the general direction of lamination of the rock, and the hornblende
layers bend a)'ound it in a most marked manner.

low.

]

APPENniX V.

341 L

Both twinned and untwinned felspar grains occur, but the former are
more plentiful. Inclusions are very common.

The hornblende is compact, except where it has been excessively
drawn-out by the shearing action to which the rock has been subjected.
It is now generally of pale yellowish or bluish-green tints, owing to
chloritization, possesses well-marked cleavages, and rather feeble
pleochroisni.

The rock may be regarded as a greatly sheared and crushed basic
eruptive, perhaps a diorite.

5. Crished Quartz Pohphyrv. — Mouth of Akuatago River, East
Main River.

In the hand specimen this is a medium -giained rock of a somewhat
dark gray colour, mottled with whitish phenocrysts of quartz and felspar,
and with a lamination due to .shearing. Many of the quartz pheno-
crysts exhibit a bluish opalescence. P3'rite and calcite are plentiful,
the rock effervescing freely with dilute hydrochloric acid. The thin
section shows a micro-granitic groundmass composed of quartz and
felspar, in which lie numerous phenocrysts of (juartz and felspar, the
former frequently having a rjde dihexahedral form, and the latter being
mainly non-striated and probably orthoclase.

Biotite in irregular scales and aggregates, accompanied by some
niuscovite, is abundant. A little hornblende is present, and pyrite,
epidote, chlorite, titanite, zircon, and apatite also occur.

The rock has been greatly crushed and sheared ; the phenocrysts of
both quartz and felspar possess very uneven extinction, are :iiuch
cracked, and peripherally granulated.

The felspar is decomposed and filled with carbonates, epidote, mus-
covite, and other alteration products. A few slender needle-like
crystals of an intensely pleochroic (ind'go-blue to light yellow or almost
colourless) mineral resembling tourmaline were observed. The biotite
is largely altered to chlorite. Some of the epidote possesses the low
double refraction of zoisite. The rock may be regarded as a much
crushed and sheared quartz porphyry. Only small portions of it have
resisted the crushing action.

G. HvPER'^TJiEXE Syenite Gneiss. — First Gorge of the Koksoak
River.

A rather coarse-grained, greenish-gray, gneissic rock, with granitic
structure, and consisting chiefly of a non-striated felspar, a little quartz,
an orthorhoinbic pyroxene .itrongly pleochroic in light-green and ])ink
tints, a deep reddish-brown pleochroic biotite, apatite, and iron ore.

342 L

LAURADOH PENINSULA.

A very few grains of plagioelaso v/ere also observed. Jlicrc
pegmatitic structure is beautifully shown in portions of the section.
The rock is tolerably fresh, but the orthorhonibic pjn'oxene (hypersthene)
shows the characteristic alteration, the grains being traversed by a net-
work of cracks filled with serpentinous material.

A determination made in the Laboratory of the Survey, gave G2'68
as the percentage of silica present in the rock. This would place it
with the syenites rather than with the granites, and it might perhaps
be termed a hypen uheae syenite containing a little quartz. It bears a
close resemblance to some of the rocks from Chateau Richer, Quebec,
describca by me as pyroxene granite gneisses but which have not yet
been analysed.

7. Gabhro, APPKOACHixfi DiAnASE IN STRUCTrRK, — End of Survey,
Ashuanipi Branch, Hamilton River.

A very dark coloured, medium-grained, massive-looking rock, having
for its principal mineral constituents plagioclase felspar, stained brown
!)y decomposition products ; monoclinic and ovthorhombic pyroxenes,
the former being the more abundant; some deep reddish-brown strongly
pleocin-oic biotite ; ilmenite accompanied in some cases by leucoxene ;
a small quantity of apatite.

The structure, whilst in the main that of a gabbro, in some portions
is ophitic, approaching in that respect to a diabase.

8. Gaubro Gneiss?. — Ossokmannau Lake, Attikonak Branch,
Hamilton River.

A medium-grained, dark green and brown, rusty, gneissic rock,
which, under the microscope, is seen to be greatly granulated, afford-
ing an excellent example of Tornebohm's " mortar-structure." Both
striated ind non-stiiated felspars are present, the latter in considerable
quantity, so that a separation would be necessary to determine its
true character. But I am inclined to believe that much of this non-
striated material is plagioclase, as pressure-twinning has been developed
in portions of some of the grains. Quartz is present, but not abundant,
and both monoclinic and orthorhombic pyroxenes occur. The mono-
clinic form is pale-green in colour and feebly pleochroic, whilst the
orthorhombic (hypersthene) is strongly pleochroic in red and green
tints. Hornblende and biotite occur in small irregular individuals,
and ilmenite with leucoxene is very abundant. The rock has a
granitoid Sl acture, and exhibits abundant dvidenceof intense dynamic
action in the cracking and granulation of its constituent minerals,

*Aiin. Rep., Geol. Siirv. Can., vol. V., 18'K)-91, part L., appendix, pi). 81, 82.

m

■4

I

•]

APPENDIX V.

343 L

^'

and their very uneven extinctions. It is stained a yellowish-brown
colour througiiout, due to hydrous oxides of iron.

9. Greywacke. — Outlet of Cambrian Lake, Koksoak River.

An exceedingly tine and even-grained, massive, dark green, rusty-
weathering rock, the clastic origin of which is at once revealed by thq
microscope. It consists of angular and sub-angular fragments of
quartz and felspar with granules of iron ore and epidote, in a ma'rix,
not at all abundant, of sericitic and chloritic material. Both striated
and non-striated felspar are present, and the rock is a typical grey-
wacke.

10. DiORiTE ?.— Ten miles above Broken Paddle River, East Main
River.

This is a medium-grained massive rock, of a very dark green colour,
mottled with yellowish-brown, and showing an indistinct foliation.
Tiie microscope shows it to consist of a clear mosaic of interlocking
grains, evidently re-crystallized, and containing both felspar and
quartz, although it is now impossible to distinguish between the two
minerals without obtaining axial figures.

Through this mosaic arc scattered iri'egulir patches of a green,
strongly pleochroic, compact hornblende, which has a secondary
appearance and is frequently arranged in rudely radiating groups of
individuals. It is intimately associated with patches of granular, and
apparently secondary, iron .ire. The section buggei-'ts a basic eruptive
rock, which has been changed to it^ prese it conduions by contact or
dynamic metamorphism.

11. DiORiTE, EXTREMELY ALTERED. — Muskrat Falls, Ha.Hli'nn
River.

A medium-grained, somewhat foliated, dark yellowish-grtcn, rusty
weathering rock, the hand specimen of which is studded with small
cubes of pyrite. Under the microscope it is seen to be in a highly altered
f nd crushed condition, consisting now chiefly of much decomposed
iind granulated plagioclase felspar, small masses of fibrous chloritized
hornblende evidenth' secondary in origin, and patches of a peculiar
deep brown granular titanite, which, from the fact that they hold
occasional cores of ilmenite, have probably been derived from the
alteration of that mineral.

The whole section is filled with' the products of decomjio-ition, such
as epidote, chlorite, and sericite, and is plentifully sprinkled with
pyrite. The rock is evidently a much altered diorite, perhaps derived

fr

om a gabbr

,v

344 L

LAHKADOR PENINSULA.

12. Uralitic Gahhro. — Lookout Mountain, near Grand Falls,
Hamilton River.

A niediuni-grninecl, mottled green and yellowish-white, massive-
looking rock.

The thin section shows it to be gi'eatly altered, with a gabbro-like
structure, and consisting principally of plagioclase felspar (some non-
striated grains al: o occur) ; hornblende of a pale green colour .and
uralitic appearance, having the borders of the grains of a darker colour
than the centres ; a deep brown strongly pleochroic biotite intimately
associated with the hornblende, and ilmenite with leucoxene.

The felspar is full of plasmatic crystals of epidote and scales of
sericite. Chlorite is very abundant in the section. The rock is
evidently an altered gabbro.

13. PviioxENiTE (Hyperstiienite). — Five miles above the Minipi
Branch, Hamilton River.

The hand r4pecimen shows a coarse-grained mixture of broad tabular
crystals of hypersthene and plates of biotite, the rock being of a
brownish-green colour, and those two minerals apparently its solo
constituents.

About the only minerals observed in the thin section were a strongly
pleochroic ortho' hombic pyroxene (hypersthene) and a deep brown
biotite. A very few minute areas of a clear, colourless minenil,
apparenth' quartz, lie between some of <^he pyroxene grains.

The orthoihombic pyroxene is quite fresh, and, as stated, strongly
pleochroic. with H = red, \) = yellowish-green, t = green.

Examined in convei'gent light it gave the optical characters of
hypersthene. It is remarkably free from the dark .scales and i ods
usually present in that mineral, a fact already noted by Dr. Adams
in the case of the Norian rocks of Canada.* The rock is evidently a
member of the pyroxenite group and may be termed a hypersthenite.

14. Diadase?, extremely altered. — First Portage from Obata-
goman Lake to Chibougamoo Lake.

A pale green, fine-grained, rusty-weathering, massive-looking rock,
with indistinct traces of foliation. This is an extremely altered basic
eruptive, probably a diabase, as traces of Ojjhitic structure can still be
detected in the section, which is traversed by little cracks filled with
quartz, and exhibits such a stage of clecou) position as to render a
minute de.scription of no special interest. The bisilicate, augite, origi-

I

J.

* I'ebiM' (las Xorian odci- Oiicr-Liuir' iitian vim Caiiiula. F
jfnrt, 18i»3.

1). .Adiiiiis. Stutt-

«I0W.

n

]

APPENDIX V.

345 I,

nally present, has been changed to a fibrous hornblende, and this again
is largely alteied to chlorite. The plagioclase felspar is almost com-
pletely saussuritized.

15. PoKPiiYRiTic Diabase. — On the portage route between Obata-
goinan and Chibougamoo lakes.

A dark green, tine-grained, massive, porphyritic rock, v.itb distinct
ophitic structure in the groundniass and having numerous large pheno-
crysts of plagioclase scattered through it.

The rock is much altered, but the ordinary structure of a diabase is
seen in the thin section. The numerous porphyritically-developed
plagioclases me much saussuritized. The section is thickly sprinkled
with small granules of iron ore and presents no unusual features.

16. Amphibolite (sheared basic eruptive). — Ten miles above
Broken Paddle River, East Main River.

A medium-grained, pale greenish, well-foliated schistose rock, with
slickensided surfaces evidently due to shearing. The thin section
shows that the rock has been subjected to intense dynamic action,
consisting now of a very finely granulated mosaic of quartz and
felspar in which a few larger fiagments of these minerals are em-
bedded, together witii bunches of a fibrous hornblende, now largely
altered to chlorite, and patches of a peculiar deep brown granular
titanite evidently resulting from the decomposition of ilmenite and
still holding an occasional small core of that mineral.

The rock has evidently resulted from the shearing and crushing of
some basic eruptive, perhaps a gabbro.

17. Ampiiiholite (sheared basic eruptive). — Ten miles above
Broken Paddle River, East Main River.

A dark green, medium-grained, distinctly banded rock, having a
much more massive appearance than No. 16, to which, as regards
oiigin, it is closely allied ; but re-cr3-stallization has proceeded farther
in this case and it is consequently in a much fresher condition.
Its foliated character is well seen in the section. The quartz and
felspar form a clear interlocking mosaic, and the hornblende is of the
'' compact" variety so characteristic of rocks of this class and is inter-
grown with the quartz and felspar. A brown pleochroic biotite, ap-
parently secondary in origin, is abundant in small scales distributed
through the quartz-felspar mosaic. Small granules of iron ore are also
plentiful.

346 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

The rock as seen in the section is apparently the final stage of
alteration of some basic eruptive and greatly resembles that described
by Teall in the case of the Scourie Dyke in Scotland.*

i8. Uralitic Diabase. — Two miles below Ross Gorge, East Main
River.

In the hand specimen this is a dark greenish-gray, fine-grained, ,
massive rock, with distinct ophitic structure and containing much
pyrite.

The section reveals tiie fact that both plagioclase and augite are
extremely altered, but the structure of the rock is undoubtedly that of
a diabase. Granules of iron ore and epidote are plentifully scattered
through it in addition to the pyrite.

The augite has altered to a fibrous hornblende svhicli, in its turn, has
become largely chloritized.

19. Hornblende Granite Gneiss. — Three miles above Grand Falls,
Hamilton River.

A rather coarse-grained, well-foliated, greenish and yellowish
" augpn "-gneiss.

A marked cataclastic and folitated structure is exhibited in the thin
section. Larger fragments of quartz and felspar are embedded in a
finer-grained mosaic of the same materials, through which run strings
of hornblende and biotite with large crystals of a clove-brown, strongly
pleochroic titanite.

Both orthoclase and plagioclase occur, the former predominating,
anil occasionally showing the structure of microcline due to pressure.

The rock has apparently been partially re-crystalli7,ed and is rilled
with needles and irregular grains of epidote. The larger fragments of
quartz and felspar are remarkably full of inclusions of this and other
minerals. The titanite crystals are remarkable for their size and deep
brown colour.

I regard the rock as being a hornblende granite squeezed into a
gneiss.

20. Dii«"-\.SE, extremely altered. — Lake Petitsikapau, Ashuanipi
Branch, Hamilton River.

A fine-grained, dark green, massive rock, full of pyrite. The thin
section shows two portions of the rock, an outer and more altered
portion, aid an inner one, which, whilst still much altered, is not quite
so much so as the outer or surface portion.

*Tp.i11. Oil tlic ^rutiuncir|)h<isis of Doleritc into Hurnliltiult' Schist, l^ .T. (}. .S.,
vol. XLI, 1885, I). 133 ; also liritish I'etiogiaiiliy. i)i). I.'i4, I'.IS-L'OO, and i>late XXI.

/

mmiUBimtammmmm

•]

APPENDIX V.

347

The mass is evidently diiibasic in character, the ophitic stinicture
being still visible. The pyroxene now exists as small cores in mosses
of brown serpentinor.s decomposition products lying between the lath-
shaped sections of plagioclase. The lighter and more highly altered
portion of the section contains more light green chlorite than the
darker.

Irregular patches of leucoxene with occasional cores of ihnenite, and
pyrite, are plentiful. An orthorhombic pyroxene is also apparently
present in small quantity. Epidote is abundant, often in radiating
bundles of needle-like crystals.

21. Crushed Granite (or Syenitp, ?). — Foot of Great Bend, East
Main River.

A mottled, greenish-gray and white, medium -grained, granitic-looking
rock, which has been greatly crushed and now consists of a mosaic of
felspar and quartz lying between larger grains of these minerals
("mortar-structure "), with scales of biotite plentifully distributed
throughout the mass. Epidote is exceedingly abundant, and occasionally
encloses sharply defined pleochroic allanite crystals. Much of it has
evidently resulted from the saussuritization of the felspar and is accom-
panied by sericite.

Both orthoclase and plagioclase are present, but the former greatly
predominates. Some titanites and apatites also occur.

In the particular section examined, quartz is comparatively scarce,,
and suggests that a further study and analysis of the rock might lead
to its being placed with the syenites rather than with the gi'anites.

22. Diabase, much altered. — Outlet of Dyke Lake, Ashuanipi
Branch, Hamilton River.

An exceedingly Hne-grained, dark green, rusty-weathering, compact,
massive rock, with occasional felspar crystals embedded in it. It is
now extremely decomposed and filled with calcite, epidote, chlorite,
hydrous oxides of iron, and other alteration products, but traces
of its original ophitic structure may still be seen. Magnetite in small
granules and crystals is abundant. The rock is undoubtedly a highly
altered diabase.

23. DiORiTE 1 — Five miles below Stillwater Branch, Koksoak River.

A medium-grained, greenish-gray, rusty weathering rock, which the
thin section shows to be made up of a bleached chloritic hornblende-
associated with much saussuritized plagioclase felspar.

348 L

LAHRAnOR PENINSULA.

Leucoxeiie, resulting from the alteration of ilmenite, is abundant,
and pyrite is also sprinkled through the mass. The hornblende con-
veys the impression of being primary in its origin and ofcasionally
sliows a twinned stiucture. The rock is probably a decomposed diorite.

2-1-. Anohtiiosii'k. — First lake on portage route fron, Romaine
River to St. John River.

A pale grayish, almost white, medium-grained, crystalli le granular
rock, looking very much like a crystalline limestone.

Only a few streaks and spots of coloured bisilicates occuM" in the
specimen, which is mainly composed of plagioclase felspar.

This is a typical representative of that division of the gabbro fui^iily .
in which the coloured constituents constitute only a very insignilicani
portion of the mass of the rock. The section is almost entirely com-
posed of clear, colourless, well-striated labradorite with an extincti(jn
angle on ooP3£ of about 25 . It is in general quite fresh, but
traces of alteration to sericite, calcite, epidote, zo.isite, etc., were here
and tiiere observed. A very few irregular grains of a fresh green
hornblende, with the characteristic cleavages and pleochroism of tliat
mineral, are present, usually associated with an opaque iron ore, which
also occurs in smaller granules dotted through the felspar.

Mica and hypersthene are also present in other portions of the rock.

2."). Mica Diouitk Gneiss (crushed and altered eruptive 1) — Ony
mile above Broken Paddle River, East Main River.

In the hand specimen this is a dark greenish-gray, distinctly foliated
and rusty-weathering rock, having numerous fragments and crystals
of quartz, felspar, and hornblende scatteied through the iiner-grained
groundmass, also numerous cubes of pyrite.

It has evidently been greatly crushed and squeezed and now con-
sists chiefly of a tine-grained quartz-felspar mosaic containing larger
fragments of these minerals, much biotite, and some hornblende larj. ely
altered to chlorite. P^'rite, titanite, epidote, ilmenite with leucoxeiie,
and a large <juantity of calcite are also present. Owing to the ex-
tremely granulated condition of the material it is difficult to make out
the nature of the felspar, but plagioclase appears to jjredominate (it
certainly does in the larger fragments) and the rock is probablj* the
result of the crushing of a diorite or gabbro.

26. Diorite (altered DABBRO?) — Near mouth of Akuatago River,
East Main Rivci-.

A dark greenishgi.iy, medium-grained, indistinctly foliated rock.

]

APPENDIX V.

349 L

The section bears evidence that it has been greatly crushed and
granulated, Plagioclase felspar, hornblende, some quartz, biotite and
iron ore are the principal minerals present. Pyrite, apatite, chlorite,,
and epidote also occur.

Much of the hornblende has a frayed-out, actinolitic appearance,
and occasionally surrounds more compact cores of a deeper green
colour, largely altered to chlorite, which resemble augites.

The bimite is largely secondary and is intimately intergrown with
the hornblende.

The rock may be an extremely altered gabbro.

27. Uralitic Gahiuio, with an appkoacii to diabasic structure.
— Eight miles above Broken Paddle River, East Main River.

A dark green »!■ ttled with white, compact, rusty-weathering rock.
It is much altered and now consists chieHy of plagioclase felspar and
a pale green uralitic hornblende, the individuals of which have borders
of a deeper colour than the centres.

The section is filled with granules of epidote, chlorite, and other de-
comp sition products. Some titanite is also present. An approach to
diabasic structure may be seen in portions of the rock, which, in the
main, may be regarded as a crushed and altered gabbro.

28. ExTUKMELY CRUSHKD POUPHVRITIC ROCK? — Three miles abcve
Broken Paddle River, East Main itiver.

A dark green, somewhat porphyritic, indistinctly foliated rock.
T'le sectian exhibits such an extreme stage of granulation as to render
a determination of the true character of the rock a matter of great
difficulty.

Fragments of plagioclase, orthoclase, qua "tz, and granules o?. iron
ore with numerous scales of an apparently sc ^ondary biotite, are scat-
tered through a very iine-grained quartz-felspar mosaic. Pyrite is
rather abundant.

29. DioiUTE. — Prosper Gorge, East Main River.

A medium-grained, dark green, rusty-weathering, compact, ma.ssive
rock. Plagioclase felspar and a pale green uralitic hornblende are its
chief constituents, together with some biotite and iron ore.

The plagioclase is quite fresh, and portions of the section have a
decided diabasic structure.

The whole of the hornblende may have resulted from the alteration,
of the augite of a diabase, as, although no cores of the latter minera.
were detected, the hornblende has a secondary appearance.

350 L

LAllllAI'OIl I'ENINHLI-A.

30. Ai.TEiiiU) DiAiiAHK. — One mile below Akuatago River, Ennt
Main Hiver.

A dark green, chloritic-lonking mck, wliicli in the tiiin section ex-
hibits a coarse opiiitic structure, the spaces between the plauioclase
cryttais l)i'ing fillefl witii a mass of scales of rathei' pale l)rown biotite,
eviilL'ntly of secondary origin. The plagiociase is very turl)id. No
iron ore was seen in the section.

31. Ai.Ti'.Ri:r) Diahahe.— Tin-eo miles and a half above iiroken
Puddle River, East .Main Kivei-.

A medium-grained, dark green, rusty-weathering, comi)act rock, in
which the plagioclase felspar is iilmost completely saussuritized, re-
taining only traces of its original striation.

The augite is largely altered to pale green hornVjlende, chlorite and
a serpentinous substance. l"]pidoto, and ilmenite acLompanicd iiy
leucoxene are abundant. A little (ittnrtz was set .i.

The section shows the typical ophitic structure of a diabase.

[Tile tlirci' fnlli)\vini{ ik'<cri|itiuiis of nicliM from Ijaliiaili)r liiivf liicn co'idfiiMcd
fnmi a \n,\ifr hy Mr. A, K. liiiilow* of this .Siirvby : J

32. Gaduro, with an approach to uiahasic structure. — Ten
miles north of Lake Kawachagan»i, on the portage route between the
Rupert and East ^lain Rivers.

In the hand .specimen this is a dark greenish gabbro-like rock, with
yellowish-green plagioclase phenocrysts. If consists chiefly of plagio-
clase, augite and ilmenite.

The larger phenocrysts of plagioclase show marked alteration, and
are precisely similar to those described by Thompson as " Huronite."
Their specific gravity is 2 •725.

The augite is largely altered to hornblende, but cores of the former
mineral still remain. Ilmenite, occasionally altered to leucoxene, is -
rather abundant. Epidote is present as a decomposition pioduct, and
apatite is very plentiful. Considerable areas of granophyre were
observed in the section, poi-tions of which also show a coarse ophitic
structure.

33. Olivive Diabase. — Fault Hill, Dyke Lake, Ashuajiipi Rranch,
Hamilton River.

In the hand specimen this is a medium-grained, dark green almost
black rock, with occasional small imperfect phenocry.sts of saussuritized

*()n some Dykes containing Huronite, by A. R. Harlov M. A., Ottawa Naturalist,
vol. IX., No. 2, 18'.i5.

■]

AJ'HENDIX V.

351 I.

pliigiocla.se. Under tlio miciosL'fjpe it i.s seen to lie eonipo.sed cliietly
of pliigiocluse, considerably alteiod to .sauHSurite, especially in the case
of laiger individuals ; fresh brownish-red, pleochroic augite, mostly
allotriomorphic in form, i)ut occasionally with slwirj) crystal outlines ;
serpentine, which has evidently resulted f njm the alteration of olivine ;
and ilmenite in largcs irregular fragments and small granules, in both
cases showing alteration to leucoxene.

31. DiAiiASE. — Near entranct! to Dyke Lake, Aahuanipi Hranch,
Hamilton Hiver.

A dark greenish-gray, I'ather coarse-grained rock, in which are em-
bedded numerous pht-nocryst.s of altertsd, greenish felspar (lluronite),
some of which in the main mass of the rock are three-fourths of an
inch in diameter.

They are extremely abundant, and, together with the plagioclases of
the groumlinass, are largely altered to sericite and epidote. Their
specific gravity is 2 ' 77.'j.

The augite, when fresh, which is rarely the case, is reddish in colour
and distinctly pleochroic. Ilmenite, altered to leucoxene, is abundant,
as ai'e also chlorite, apatite ai)d pyrite.

APPENDIX VI.

liiHT OP riiK Plants known to occuri on the Coamt and in the
Interioh op the Laiiradok Peninmula. Compiled iiy James
M. Macoun.

Tho fi)ll(»wiiij^ list, which has been carefully oompiled from lists
already published and from M.S. notes and spc ucns in the lierbaiium
of tlie (Jeological Huivoy, is divided into four columns, so that the dis-
tribution (if each species, so far as known, may be seen at a glance.

The first colunm contains those species known to occur on the coast
of Labrador, the second those f^rowini; in tho basin of the upper Ham-
ilton River, the thirtl those growinj^ in the basins of the Rupert and
iiust Main rivers and the fourth those growing along the shores of
James Bay. The area included in the second and third columns com-
prises the whole central part of the peninsula, and many of the plants
noted in the third column and not in tho second doubtless grow in the
basin of the Hamilton River; but, while the third column represents
the collections made in three season^, under favourable conditions and
over a wide area, one season only was spent on the Hamilton River.

The first column has been copied from Dr. Packard's "The Labrador
Coast," with tho addition of a few species overlooked when his li-t was
compiled, or' which have since been collected. The species included in
the other three columns have all been collected by Mr. Low or his
assistants, Mr. J. M. Macoun having made the collections in 1885 and
1887, and Mr. A. H. D. Ross, in 1892, the very complete collection of
the plants growing along the East Main River. Lists of the plants
found at Lake Mistassini, on the Rupert River and along the shores of
James Bay have been printed as addenda to Mr. Low's reports of 1885
and 1887, and to these the results of his explorations in 1888, 1892,
1893 and 1894 are now added.

Recent revisions of genera have in some cases changed the names
that appear in this list, but to obviate the printing of synonyms the
names under which species and varieties have been already recorded
from the Labrador Peninsula have been retained, except where a cor-
rection was necessary or there was the possibility of confus'ng two
plants : in such cases both names are given.

23

354

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

3. 4.

RAXUNCULACEiE.

Anpiuoiie parviflora, Miclix

M imiltitida, DC

M dichotoina, Liiiii

Thalictruin dioiruiii, Linn

M iKilyganium, Muhl. (T. Cornuti,Tjimi.] ..

Ranunculus aquatilis, Linn., var. trichophyllus, Chaix.

1. Cymbalaria, Pursh

11 rep ans, Linn

11 attinis, K. Br

11 " var. validus, Gray

abortivns, Liini

11 returvatiis, Hoir

■I pygniieu.s, Wahl

11 mvalix, Linn

11 nc i^^, Limi

11 I'cinisyh anicus, Linn

Caltha imlustris, Liini

Coptis trifolia, Salisb

Actiea spicata, L., var. rubra, Ait

11 alba, Big

XYMPH.EACE.^i.

Nupliar advnna, Ait.

SAKRACEXIACE.E.

Sarracenia purpurea, Liini

PAPAVERACE.E.

Papaver nudicaule, Linn

FU. JARIACE.E.

Corj'dalis glauca, Pursh

CRUCIKER^E.

Nasturtium palustre, DC

Cardaniine hirsuta, Liini

11 pratennis, Liun

Arabia stricta, Hudw. (A. coiift'inft, Wat.) . . . .

11 alpina, Linn

11 humifusa, Wat., var. pubescens, Wat

Barlmrea vulgaris, R. Br. . . . .

Erysimum clieirantlioides, Linn

Sisyinl)ium humile, C. A. Meyer

Draba alpina, Linn., var. (V) corynibosa, Dur .

It stellata, .Taeq., var. nivalis, Regel

11 incana, Linn

■I M var. confusa, Poir

11 jrabisans, Miclix

II anrea, Vahl

Cochleaiia officinalis, Linn

■1 tridactylites. Banks

Can "11a Bursa-pastoris, Munch

Thias)ii arvense, Linn

Viola iilanda, Villd

11 nlmata, Linn., var. cucuUata, (iray. . .

11 nalustris, Linn

u canina, Linn., var. Miiiilenbcrgii. Gray .

APPENDIX VI.

355 L

CARYOPHYLLACE^..

Silene Armeria, Linn

ti noctiflora, Linn

n acaulis, Linn

Lychnis ai)etala, Linn

M alpina, Linn

Arenaria verna, Linn

,1 M var. hirta, Wat

M Michauxii, Hook

II Gi'iunlandiea, Sprenj,

II serpyllifolia, Linn

II lateriflora, Linn

II ])eploides, Linn

Stellaria media, 8niitii

II lx)reali», Bigel

I, M var. alpestris, Gray

II crasBifolia, Klirh

II longipes, Goldie

,1 II var. minor. Hook

„ II II Edwardsii, T. and G .

II huniifusa, Rottb

Cerastiuni vnlgatuni, Linn

II arvfnae, Linn

II alpiniun, Linn

Saguia nodosa, E. Meyer

Buda borealis, Wat. (Spcryukiria snliiut, Presl.). . .

PORTULACACE.E.

T'ontia fontana, Linn.
Lin\im perenne, Linn.

LIXACE.1i:.

GEI.ANIACE.^.
Geranium Carolinianum, Linn

RHAMNACE.E.
Rhamnns alnifolius, L'Her

SAPINDACE.V.

Acer spicatum. Lam

LEGUMINOSE.^.

Trifolium repens, Linn

Astragalus alninns, Linn.

Oxytropis (xxiocarpa, (iray

II canipestris, Linn., var. cierulea, Koch.

Hedysaruni boreale, Nuli.

Vicia Cracca, Linn

II Americana, Muhl

Lathyrus maritimua, Bigel

,1 paluster, Linn

ROSACE.-E.

Pnnuis Pennsylvanica, Linn.,
Si)iriea salicifolia, Linn

23i

356 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

2. i 3.

ROSACK.-K— Con^iiiMfi/.

Rubus CliiuniEiiiDruH, Linn

.1 arcticns, Linn

M T. viir. grandiHoiniH, Ledeb

M trifloniH, Kidi

M striBoHiis, Miclix

TJryas octupctalii, Linn

M n vnr. intcgrifolin, Cluun. Sch

Genm inaiToj iiylluni, Willi!

11 stvictmn, Linn

M riviilf, liiiin

M tiifloiuni, I'nrsl

SibljaUlia iirocuinliens. I.inn

Kiaj;aiiii Virginiana, Ehili . .

Potentilla Norvcgica, Linn

11 ai'(i;uta, Pursh

M IVniirtylvanica, Linn

M nivca, Linn

11 niaciilata, I'oir

II einarfjinata, I'ursli

II ]ialusti'i.H, Scop

II fniticdsa, Linn

II tridi'ntata, Sol

11 ansifiina, Liini

Alcheniilla vulnaris, Liini

I'litei'itini Caiiadi-nsc, licnth and Hook

Kiisa Hayi, Scliwcin

I'yiiis AniiTicana, DC

Anii'lancliitT Canadinsis, T. and (i., var. oblonjrifolia, T. and (}.
II II M oligocaipa, T. and (J...

SAXII'HAGACE.K

Saxifraga (i|ipositif<ilia, Linn

11 Aiz(M)n, .)a(!<(

II ca-spitosa, Liini

II rivnlaris, Liini .

II ciTniia, Linn

11 nivalis, Linn

II hicracifolia, Waldst. and Kit.. . .

11 Hirculns, Linn

II tricnspidata, Ket/.

II ai/.oi(li'«, Linn

^litella nuda, Linn

Parnass'a iialustriu, Linn

II pavvitlora, Linn

II Kot/.cbnci, Cliani. and Sclilt-cht.

Ribes oxycanthnidcH, Linn

II humstris, Poir

11 rubinni, Linn

II prostratnni, L'Ht-r

\^

\

CRASSULACK.'l':.

Si'dnni Rhi)dio'a, DC.

DUO.SKRACE.K.

Drosora rotniKlifiilia, Linn

II intermedia, Diev. and Haynt', var. Americana, DC.

/T:

APPENDIX VI.

35^

HALORAGE/E.

Hippuris vulgaris, Linn.. . . . . .

Myi'io])hyIluni spicatuin, Linn.

ONA(iRACE.*;.

Ci^cl^'.^ alpina, Lip:*

Epilolnuiu spicatum, Lam. (A', (tiiijiistifolium, Linn.)

11 latifuliuni, Linn

M anagallidifuliiim, Lam. (E. (ilpinuin of Packard's list).

II palustre, Linn

II lin'are, Muhl

M adeniK'auli.n, Hausskn. (i!. tctruyonuvi of Lake Alis-
tassini list)

UMBELLIFER.E.

Saniciila Marilandica, Linn

Slmn eioutiefoliuin, (inielin

Cicutii niacnlata, Linn

M l)ull)ifera, Linn. . ....

Litru.<tii'uiu iSc<)ti-;uni, Linn

Archangelica a'lopurpurca, Hoffni.

II (Jnielini, MC

Heraclenni lanatm.i, Miclix

ARALiACE.^.

Aralia hi.spida, Miclix.. ,
II nudicaulis, Linn

COM ACE /E.

RULIACE^.

(Jaliuni asprelluni, Miclix.
I. triHduni, Linn. . . .
M tritlnnim, Micli.\..
II iHiirale, Linn

VALERIAXACE.E.

Valeriana sylvatica, Rich

COMl'OSIT.-E.

Eupatorium imrpurfiini, Limi

Kdl'.lago liicolor, Linn., var. concolor, Torr. and <Jray.

|....

Cornns Canadensis, Linn I *

II snecica, Linn I *

II ser'iCea, Linn \. . . .

i> stoiinifera, Michx . . . .

CAPRIFOLIACE^E. \

.Sambncns raceniosa, Liin.., var. puliens, Wat

Viburnum pauciflurum, Fvlaie ■ *

Linniea borcalis, (ironov *

Luniccra involcrata, Banks ' . . .

.1 fieiulea, Linn *

Diervilla tritida, Mienoh i . . . .

358 L

LABRADOH PENINSULA.

2.

COMFOSrtJE— Continual.

Solidago iii,.cro|ihylla, Pursh

11 multiradiata, Ait

II Virgaurea, Linn, var. alpina, Bigel.

11 huniiliH, PurHh

11 uliginosa, Nutt .

11 OaniulenNis, Linn

II nenioralis

lancoolata, Linn

Aster radiila, Ait

11 11 var. strictus, Gray

11 lievis, Linn

11 Lindleyanua, T. and G

II Halicifolins, Ait

11 puniceus, Linn

II paniculatus, Lam

11 junceiis, Ait

11 nenioralis, Ait

11 umbellatus. Mill

Erigeron, hyssopifc^lius, Michx

11 uniflorus, Linn

11 Philadelphicus, Linn

11 acris, Linn

11 11 var. Drrubacliensis, Blytt....

11 Canadensis, Linn

Antennaria plantaginifulia. Hook

11 dioica, ( Jiertn

II alpina, Gajrtn

II Carpatliica, R. Br

Anaphalis niargaritacea, Bentli. and Hook . . .

Gnaphaliuni >iorvegiouni. Gunner

■1 Mupinuni, Vill

Bidens frontlosa, Linn

II cernua, Linn

Chrysantlienuini arcticuin, Linn

Acliilliea Millefolium, Linn

Tanacetuni Huronenfo, Nutt

Artemisia borealin. Pall., var. Kpitliamu'a, T. and G. . .

11 11 II M Wormskioldii, Bess

11 Canadensis, Michx

Petasites pahnata, (iray

•I sagittata. Gray

Arnica alpina, Mnrr

Senecio vulgaris, Linn

11 aiu-euB, Linn

II 11 var. Balsaii -.tie, Torr. and Gray. .

II 11 II l)orealis, Torr. and (tray

11 II II olK)vatu», Torr. and Gray. .. .

M Pseudo-Arnica, Less

II frigidus. Less

Cnicus muticus, Pursh

Hieraciuni vulgatiun. Fries

11 unibellatum, Linn

11 scabrum, Michx

Taraxacum otfioinale, Welier

11 II 11 var. alpinuin, Koch., ..

II II 11 II lividuni, Koch

Lactuca lencophiea, Gray

pulchella, DC

Prenauthes alba, Linn

II racemosa. Hook

APPENDIX VI.

359 L

3.

4.

LOBELIACEvE.

Lol)elia Dortinanna, Linn .
<i Kalmii, Linn

CAMTAXULACE.^.

Cumi)anu1a rotundifolia, Linn

<i II var. artica, Lange ,
II uniflora, Linn

VACCIMACE^.

Vaccinium Pennsylvaniciiin, Lam . .

II M var. angu.stifuliuin, (iray

II Cana'lense, Kalni ...

II uliginoMuni, Linn

II caeH|iit()8uni, Miciix

II Viti«-Idiea, Linn

II OxyCDWCus, Linn. (Oxiicoccus vulyarin, Purnli.). . . .

M niacrocarpon, Ait. {Oxiicoccua maerocitrpns, Pursl.

Cliiogent's liiHpidula, Torr. and Gray

ERICACK^.

Arctostaphylos alpina, Spreng... .
II Uva-iirsi, Mpreng..

Cas.sandra ciilycMilata, Don

CassioiH! liypnoides, I)on

II tctargona, Dm ....

Epigiea reiK-ns, Linn

Andromeda |K>lif(>lia, Linn.

Loisfleuria procumbens, Desv

IJryanthus taxifolius, (tray

Kalniia angustifolia, Linn

II gliiuca. Ait

Ledum tialustre, Linn

II latifolium, Ait. . .'

KluKlodeiidron Rhodora, Don

M Lapiunicum, Wahl

I'yr'ila minor, Linn

II secinida, Linn

II II var. iminila, (4ray

II clilorantlia, Swartz

11 rotundifolia, Linn

II II II var. uliginosa, Gr.-vy.

II II I' II pumila, Hook. . .
Mont'ses uniflora. Gray

DIAPENSACE^.

Diai^ensia Lapiranica, Linn

PLUMBAGIN.ACE.fi.

Arnieria vulgaris, Willd

PRIMULACE.Ii:.

Primula tarinosa, Linn

II Mistassinica, Mich.x

Egaliksensix, Hornem

Trientali.s Americana, Pursii

Lysimacliia stricta. Ait

360 L

LABRADOR P!;N1NSULA.

2.

3. 4.

APOCYXACK.E.

Apocymim androsreinifoliuni, Linn

GEXTIAXACE-E.

Gwitiana ^errata, fiiinncr

11 Aniiirt'llii, Linn., viir. acuta, Hook

11 i)rip]iinqua, Kicli

11 nivalis, Linn

11 linearis, J-'ni'l

Pleui'ogynt' lotata, (irisi'l)

11 Ciirintliiaca. (iriscli., var. |>usilla, (iray.

H.alcnia (U'flt-xa, (Jrisfl)

Menyanthes (rifoliata, Linn

BORRACIXACE.E.

Myosotis verna, Xutt . . .
Mertensia nmritinia, Don. .
11 iianiutilata, Don.

.SCK< )PHULARLVCE.E.

Mimulus rinpens, Linn

ViTonica alpina, Linn

11 scutfUata, Linn

11 Americana. Scliwein

II [HTcgrina, Linn

CastilU'ia pallida, Kvnitli

.1 11 var. si-|)U'ntrionalis, (irny

Euphrasia oHicinali.s, Linn

var. Tartarica, licnth . . ,

Bartsia aljiina, Li'in

IVdiculans (intiiiandica, Ketz..

Lap|M)nica, Linn.,

11 I'Uphrasioides, htcplian

1. palustris, Linn., var. Wlassoviana, Binige.

11 liirsnta, Linn

11 Haniniea, Linn

Rhinantlnis Crista-|>ralli, Linn

Melani'iiynnn Aniericanuni, Micli.x

LKXTIBULARIACE.E.

Utrieularia viilKaris, Linn., var. Americana, Gray.

11 intermedia, Haj ne

Pinguicula, vultjaris, Linn

11 villosa, Linn

11 alpina, Limi . . .

LABIAT.i:.

Mentha Canadensis, Linn

I. 11 11 var. (;lal>rata, Benth

Lycopus siimatus. Ell

I)raeocei>liahnn parviHonnn, Xutt

Brunella vid).raris. Linn

Scutellaria galei icidata. Liiui

11 lati'riHora, Linn

Lamiuni aniplexieaide. Linn

(ialeopsis Tetrahit, Linn

Stachys pahistris, Linn

■• r

!«■

■| .

* * 1 «

I « I «

' * * i * *

LOW.]

APPENDIX VI.

361 L

1.

2.

3.

4.

PLAXTAGINACK.E.
I'lnutago innjiir, Linn

^

*

■«*

M eriiniDfla, Toir

*

M nmntiiiia, Linn

■*

*

CHKXOPODIACE.E.

ClienoiKKliuni album, Liini

*
*

*

*
*

*

POLYGOXACE.*.

Polvgonuni aviculare, Linn

*■

" i' .. var. borealis, Lange. (new to Canada)
11 aniplii))iuni, Linn

*

.

M cilonode, Miclix

«■

M Convolvulus, Linn "

«

11 vivi])aruni, Linn

*

«
«

*

" lai>athifoliuni, Ait., var., incanuni, Hcxik

Oxviia cligvnii, Cani|)

*

Runicx veiticillatns, Linn

«

11 oociiU-ntalis, Wat

*

*

11 niantinius, Linn

«-

Kitnigia Islandica, Linn

*

EL.'EA(iXACE.E.

Elieaenus arffcntea, Piu.sh

+■

•Spell icrilia Canaclt-nsis, Xutt

*■

SAXTALACE.E.
Coinandra livida, Rich

^

*■

*■
#
*

*

*
*

*

rimcACE.4i:.

I'l'tica gi'acilis. Ait

*

3MYRICACE.E.

^Iviitii (JaW, Linn

*

«

HETl'LACE.E.

Bet\ila lutea, ^lichx

[.apyrifera, Miclix

)>uniila, Linn

It
*

*
*

«■
*■

ffltindulosa, Michx

■ 1 nana, Linn

Alnus incana, Willd

*
*

*
*

•k

SALICACE.Ii.

Salix adenojilivUa, H(K)k

11 aictica, R. Ur

11 arprvrocarjia, Andei's

#

«

11 lialsaniifeia, Banatt

11 Candida. Willd

*

it

*

*

11 cbliiiophylla, Anders

11 ccii'data, -Mnlil

' '«'

11 c'.esertoruin, Rich

*

11 !! -color, Muiil

*

362 L

LAUKADOR PENINSULA.

S.ALICACEiE.

Sr.lix Kli'.Cft, Linn

11 luTliaci'ii, Linn *

11 lucida, Miilil

11 niyrtilloideH, Linn

11 Kicliaidmmi, Hook., var Macouiiiana, Hrbb

11 reticulata, Linn

11 roNtrata, Kich

11 vestita, Puruli

11 Uva-urMi, Purnli

Poimlus trfniuloiflcH, Michx

11 balsamifiTa, Linn

kmpi;trace.k.

£nii>etrum nigrum, Linn.

COXIKKR.E.

Tlmya occidcntalis, Linn

.Iunii«Tus communis, Linn

11 11 11 var. nljiina, Linn.

Ta'uis Imccata, Linn., var. Caniuifusis, (iray.

Pimit, Banksiana, Lamb

Picea alba. Link

11 nigra. Link

Abies balsamen, Marsh

Lnrix Americana, Mi<Oix

ORCHIDACK.'K

Calypso Vxjrealis, Salisb

Corallorhiza innata, K. Hr

Listera corciata, R. Br

11 coiivallarioides, Xutt. . .
Siiii'antlies Ronianzoviana, Cham.

(i(K)d^'era re|)ens, R. Br

Orchis rotundifolia, Gray

Habenaria hyi>erl)orea, U.. Br ...

11 obtusata. Rich

11 dilatata, liray

Cypripedium pubescens. Swart/, . .
II acaule. Ait

IRIDACK.K.

Iris Hookeri, Penny

11 versicolor, Linn

Siayrinchiuni niucronatum, Mx.

LILIACE.E,

Streptopus amplfxifolius, DC \

II roseus, Michx *

Smilacina stellata, I )esf : *

trifolia, Desf { *

Miantiiemum Canadense, Desf. {M. tri/oliuia of Mistassini list.) *

Allium sch(('noi)ra8um, Linn

Toficldia lK)reaiis, W,i;il. (T. jMlustrin, Huds.) [ *

11 (flutinosa, WilUl •

Clinto lialxirealis, Ilaf i *

APPENDIX VI.

363 V

JUNCACE.*.

JuncuH filifoniiiN, Linn

11 IJalticus, Willd , var. littoraliH, Engel

tri^fliimin, Linn

.1 effnsuK, Linn

M ciiHtiincun, Smith

tcniiiH, Willd

Imfimius, Linn

■ ■ iilpimw, Villars, vnr. inBigniH, Frii's

11 noiIohUM, Linn

11 Civniidcnsiw, .1. Gay, var. coarctatUH, Kngelm.
Luxiila simdicea, DC.

11 11 var. parviflora, Meyer

1- s]>ii'ata, Desv

11 comosa, Meyer

II arcuata, Meyer . .

TYPHACK.Ii.

Sparganiurn sinijilex, Hndn ,

II hyperVKU'euni, Liust., var. Aniericamnn, Beeby

AROIDE.E.

2.

Calla [laluHtribi, Linn .

LEMNACE.E.

Leinna minor, Linn.

ALIS>L\CE.E.

Sagittaria variabiliH, Engehn

XAIDACE.E.

Ti'igldohin palustre, Linn

.1 inaritinuini, Linn

I'otamogtton lu-feropliylhifi, Solireb. (Includes two varieties of P.
iirtitiiinniK in Mistassin; list.)

11 imuc'ifloniK, E'ursh

•I jiectinatus, Linn

II maiinus, T^inn . . ,

1. perfoliatiis, Linn

II jinsilhis, Linn

II rntilan.s, Wolfgani;

II rufescens, Schrad ....

Naiais flexilis, Rostk ...

Zpnnii.'h'llia iMvlustris, Linn

CYPERACE.^.

Eleoclmris pahtstris, R. Br

Scirupa lacustris, Linn. (S. 'y(/(>/«.i, \'alil. )

sylvaticus, Linn., var. digvnus, Rieck. (S. micromrpttf

Presl.),.. ."

\ 11 ciespitosus, Linn

II atrovirens, yUM

Eriophurum alpinum. Linn

.< cyi irimnn, Linn

.1 vaginatum. Linn

II russei)lnni, Fries

304 L

I.AIIRADOII PKNINSn.A.

8. 3.

CWmAVK.K-Coutinmtl.

Krioliliuriiui (11111111111111, Host. (E. Srhcm'h.irl, \\ii\>\H'.\ . .

H |i(i|y>t:ic!iyiiii, Linn

M .. M var. luigiiMtifcilinin, Of.iV

!■ gnvcilf, Koch

Ciirox auilniHtii. Hoott

.1 lUliwta, Hoott

1. Biinntilix. W'ulil. (C. (unjiiKtalo of MixtiisMiiii lint.) .

n iilpiim, Swiirtz

,. nic'tutii. lloott., var. Faxoiil, Uuiley

M atnita, I.iiin

II aurtMi, Niitt

M yiixlumniii, W'alil

n cum-Hceiis. Linn

11 11 1. vai'. alpicola, Wnhl

<• 1. 11 viilgallH, jlailiiy

11 taiiillaiis, Tiiiiii

11 tiLstanea, Wall]. ((/'. ,lii.f<lis, Hndge.)

11 clioriioi'lii/.ii, I'lluli

II foiuinna. It. Hi-

M I'ctiinata. ^Iiirr

■ 1 (iinfliiii, Hook

Kyoi^^iate.-). \\'oHlisk .

.1 t1a\ a, Linn

1. Iftgopinii, Walil

11 lannginiwa, Miclix

II lenticiilaris, Miclix

.1 l»xitl<il'a, Tiain

II litiiosa. (.inn

11 iiiiUit inia, A'alil

11 Alagt'llinii-a, Lnni

II ini('roi.rlociiin, Walil

II iniliaris, Miohx

II Micliaiixiana, Ho'ckl

II inonilf, TiR'k..

II nardina, Vt'wh

II tEilc'i'i, Khili. (C. .rfiHii, L.. var. rirlilti/n, Hail.) ..

I. ilipwpcnna, Miclix

II ,H)lytriclioi(tis, Mnlil

II p -atiinsi.ii, 1 )iTg

; aviflora, .'^niit li . . . ,

II I'iparia, W. C'uitis

.1 rotuiidata. Walil ,

II seiiiKiiilca, ^ticlix

II snlina, Walil

II saxatilis, l.iwu

II sfopai-ia. Hulik

II stvauiinea, Willi!

II stlicta. Lam., var. decora, Bail

II ten-tiii>ciila. Good

I. utrioiilata. Boott. [C. rdKtniln of lists.)

11 vaginata, Tausi'li

II vulgaris, Krit-s., var. liypi rbdira, Boott

■*•

■*•

•i'

(iRAMlNK.i;.

lifukniaiinia erucii'forinis, Host., var. iinitloriis, Si-rib.

P.i'.icuni dichotonnim, Linn

Hiirofhloa alpina. Ko'in. and .Sdmltz

11 lioii'alis, Kuni. and Scliulti!

Alopecnrns gcniculatus, Linn., var. ari>tiilatus, Miinr

II .alpinn.-, Sniitli

APPKNDIX VI.

305 L

HUXMISK.V. C<>,i<iintr,l.

Stiim l!i(liiiiil>iMiii, Link , , .

( liAv.i'psiM iispcriliiliii, Miclix. .

I'lilclilii |i|;it('lisr, r.ilill

lll|iilllMJI, l.iiili

AffrcwtiK sciilini, Wllld '

Ciiiiiji |«'iiiliilii, Trill. .. ....

('alnniiisfpwtiM CiniiulciiHi-', llndU

M lll•^'ll•ctll, Kuiitli

" I<inij,'H(|intii, Trill

l>«Muliiuii|Mia iitrii|iiii-|nuvii, Sclu'ele

11 '1 '< vftr. iiiinur, Vftvey

■ 1 lll'KpitdHll, UciUIV

M allia, Itii'iii. anil Schiiltz. (/>. Hcjriioui of MiHtiusini

lint.)

TriKctiiiii siil)s|iicatimi, Hcaviv., viir. iiidIIc. (iray

CatiilniiMi iiinmfic'.i, Hcauv

I'(ia alpiiia, liiiiii

M fii'.-<i(i, Siiiitli

n CHiiisia, .Vll

M uliiii'.aris, Trill

.. lu'iitiiisis, Linn

(ilyotriii ('aii:ulcii.>iis, Trin

Ml imdinacia, Kiiiith

.1 ni'iv ata, Trin

Koftiica oviiiii, Linn

.. " M var. brt'vifolia, Wats

lirtiiMMs ciliatiiM, Linn

\t;rii|iyniiM tciicriini. Ve.-fy

1 iiilacciini, La igt;

Il'iriltiiiii jiiliatiiin, Ijiiin

KlyniM.-< iiiiillis, Trin

KC/Ul8ETACfc.K.

F.i|\iist'tMiii arvi'MHf, Linn ...
M pratcnsf, Linn. . . .

n sylvaticiiiii, Linn .

M iialuMtrc, liinn . . .

II Sfirpoidi's, .Micli.v.

DI'HIfHiLOSSACK.K.

Hulryi-liimii Faiiiaria, Mwartz

M \'iiyiniciiiii, Hwartz

11 tuniutil^jl, Jiwnitz., var. InnarioiflfH, Milde

fl/'ICES.

I'lilvpodiuni vnlcare, Linn.,
Pillii'a trracili.s, Hunk

l'li'ri> ai|iiilina. Linn , j

.\8|)leiiiiini viriilr. Hiids

.1 Fclixfiriiiina, fjirili^

l'lieg(i|)tcriH hiyipiilfri.", I'V'f i,-,.-, ..

11 M " var. Riibt'flianuni, iJav. {P. ciilcitria,
Fi'c. )

M polv|iiidinillc-i, Fi'O

AHpidiuni Hpinulnsniii, f-' wart/.. , var. dilatatiim, Hook

Onoelea sfiisiliilis, Linn

Cystopteris fraffilis, Heriili [

.1 iiiuiitanu, Bernh I

,360 I,

LAURADOIl PKNINSULA.

1.

a.

&

*

•
•
•

•

4.

VliACKH-Omrlmlnl.
WiMHl>.in Klalx'llii, H. Mr

llviMiil!*, U. Ilr

. . . .

H Chiytoiiiuum Liiiii

I.VCoroDIACK.K,

[iVCoiMHliuiii Ht'la^u, liinii . . . .

II Iticitlnliiin, Mic*i)x

•
•

» luiiiiitiiiiini, Linn

•

*

•

•

II ntiMcnnuu, Linn. (Z., ili'iniroiUtum, Mx.)

. ...

•

«

u cuuiiilunatiini, Linn .

•

APPENDIX VII

McTKOKOLOrUCAL OlIHKRVATIONS IN THE LaIIRADOK PkNINSL'LA, 1893-

1894 unci 189.') dv D. I. X. Eatov.

The Imrometftr used was a Hinall aneroid, but the reiidings Imve been
corrected, and are believed to l)o nearly exact.

The temperature is stated in degrees Fahrenlieit.

The forco of the wind is estimated according to a scale from 0 to 5.

The proportion of the sky covered l)y clouds is estimated by a scale
from 0 to 10 ; 0 being a cloudless sky, 10 a completely clouded sky. The
character of the clouds is denoted by the usual letter or combination
of letters referring to Howard's classification.

Tlie letters used in the last column have the following designations :
B. blue sky; C. cloudy; 11. rain; G. gloomy; F. fog; (>. overcast;
H. haze.

Note — The ob><ervations taken between 20th June and 13th August,
1893, were lost through the upset of a canoe. The last thermometer
was broken on 18th June, 1894.

A P P E X

Meteorological Observations in the

I'lnce.

Date.

1S!I3.

Kniiiapeskaii Lake AiIb'.

Upiier Koksoak l{iver i

Koksoak Kiver

Fort Chiiiu).

Uiipava Kay

George Kiver I'ost.

Uiife'ava IJay.

Fort Cliinio, . .
Ungava Hay. .
Port Burwell.

Xachvak Bay.
Davis Inlet . .

14.
Vk

\r,
17.
IS.
l!i.
20,
21.
22
28.
24.

2S.
2!l.
30.
31.

Sept. 1.

10.

11.

12.

13.

14

15.

l(i.

17.

18.

111.

20.

21.

22

23!

24.

25,

2li.

27.

Tlieriuiiiiieter.

I

a

Uaroineter.

31

70

01

. . . .

2810 2S'16 281!)

.58

(15

01

28- 10 2.S 21 28-25

ro

70

.).)

••SL'l 28-35 2S 48

40

75

65

28-48 28 ,54 28-02

50

75

05

2S (',2 28 77 28 0,S

3t;

70

58

20 (Hi 20 11 2012

.50

75

02

20 17 20 23 20 20

54

08

54

2il 28 20 41 20 3(i

44

72

05

20 ;«) 20 15 20 22

02

,53

.50

20 IC 20 14 20 00

00

03

55 ..

20-30 2040

3S

C4

ih)

20-4(> 20 44 20 5(1

(-.4

(i5

,50

20-00 2! (74 20-08

i).i

70

04

20 4(( :'0-41 20 .V*

02

70

m .

2)1 .52 20-.-)(i 20 (14

4(1

.52

50 ..

20 7(> 20 84 20 04

4S

42

40 ..

20 .so 20 i(2 20 (12

46

44 .

20 .SO 20-,84

4(i

60

55

20 7(1 20 (1(1 2!l 5(1

4!l

72

50

.. 2i) 54 '.It 42 20 42

54

50

40

2i)-4(l 20 4(1 20 .'^l

40

01

47

32

20 .53 ... 20 44

50

.50

50

42

20 40 2il 30 20 45

40

48

48

20 (15 20 72 20-76

45

54

40 40

20 -.84 20 82 20-76

42

.50

:w ;«

20 70 20 ,S3 20-8(i

3(1

45

.38

2O-,S0 20 !K) 20 01

35

54

2it 02 20 0(1 20 !I4

42

14

42

30 (M( 30 04 30 (14

54

58

(55

20 (14 20(14 2!l-41

,55

54

20 41 20.54

05

48

29 42 j 2'.t 40

20-18 ; ... »• 02

48

43

.30

43

208, 2il 80

(«

04

29-72 . 20 -62

02
.55

20-62 1

2!»-60

43

60

20 52 20-55 20-64

45

43

2il-64 20-81

45

40

29-70 29 til

40

42

2il-25 20 25

42

40

, ,

29 52 20 40

40

40

20 15 20 20

43

40

2il-20 2!t .30

45

38

20-64 1 20-00

1) I X V r l—(Cont.)

Labrador Peninsula, 1S93-1894.

Wind.

C1ou(1h

Xciti's on wf.ather during lost 24 hours.

Diicctiiii.

Fi )roe.

1

2

!)

1

2

!)

f

0

i

X.E.

sik

E.
X.

s.w.

X.K

X.K.
siE.'

2
2

3
1

2'

2

2

3K

4K.S...

liK

3 K. S...

3 C

3K

2K. ...

C.K. S...

5 K. S. . ,

3K

3 K

2K

3K

lOK.S. .

8K.+C..

X

JO K.S...

8 K.S...

C. K.S...

4C.+3K

5 K.S...

7K. . ..

5K. S...

IK

1 K

2K

I'.K.'sii.
C. K.S ..
7 K . . .

r. K

7 K

5 K

10 K

OK

1

3 K. +C'..irii>ar, iia»»infr clouds.

il K. S, . . ;( )\ crc'ii.-it tiiwiii'ds nlL'lit.
2K. ... 'C. ,\.

4 K ,C. H., mist.

2 K iB. 0.

3 K. S il'.. 0.

3 K. S... 15. a

H.E.

"s."

S.
E. ■

•eV

x.w.

S.W.

"x."

X.

s.

S.

E."
X.E.

2

2
\

2
2

3
2

2
3
2
3

2'

2
•>

r.c. i-k.s.

3K

'J c

X

2K

MK

8K.+C..

r)K.s. .

(•> K. S...
5K.S...

1 K

IK

K

't'k.+c.'.

OK.S.

8K. S...

8K

8 K

S K

8 K. S...
10 K . ...
8K. S...

7 K.S...
UK

10 K

8 K.S

IK I?., i.viTcast.

!l K. KJ.iCdiill.

.\.. . .[Hi'iivy sliowiTs. iliill iiiid glm.niy.
8 K. S . . Rain, iivcrcast anil dull.

8K C. 15.

7K. S. . 0. dull.
OK. S... (', 1!.
8 K . ...r. ]J.
8 K Sni.iky, C.

IK. c. n.

....

K ruiK'lit and cirar.

■ ■ ■

X.E.
X.E.

N.

i 2

2
3
2

K li.

2 K H.

X.

N.

10 K. S. . . Mazv, civi-rcast at nigiit.
8K. + lCr. li.
10 S .... Rain at night.

7 K.S...('. n.

0 S. ; C. Dull and glcxmiy.
OK. S . ('. W.

8 ;:. S. . log, dull and thri'atening.

."> K Ovcicast and chdl.

7 K. S... C. |{.

WNW

"n."

X.E.
N.E.

X.W.

■'e.'

X.E.

w.

X.W.

w.

X.K.
X.

X. !•:.
w.

S.E.

S.W.
S.E.

•1 !

i ;

2

2

2

2
3

2
2

0
0
2
2
2
•>

1

2
2

S.E.

'si '

• •

4 K. S. . . Light showers.

"K C.

10 K.S... ('. and fog.
4 K Rain

S.E.

siE.

'siE.'

3
2

4 K

7K .. Dull.

a.E.

10 K

Mi.st.

S.E.

10 K.

(! K. S 0. dull.

8.E.

....

W.

E.
S.E.
S.E.
S.E.

X.
X.W.

3
2
2
2
2
2
3
3

r>
3
1
•>

10 K

8 K. S. . ()., nii»t.

S.E.
S.E.
SE.
S,E.

8 K. S

OK 0 dull

C.K

8K. S...
2 K

7K. .. |-..g.

7 K. S. . Overcast, fog.

C. K.S... li. ('.

S.E.

N.

N.W.

10 K.S...

10 K.S...

5K

OK.S... Kcig, C. B.
(iK. S...C. B.
4 K . . . C. B

24

370 L

LABRADOR PENINSULA.

METEOKOLOfiicAL Odsehvations iil the

Place.

Date.

1893.

Sept.

Kipolet Oot.

Hainiltun Iiikt

Northwest Hivi'i-, Lalirai'or

Nov.

28.,

2'.l.,

30.,

1.,

2,

3.

4.

5.

(i.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12

13.

14.

15.

l(i.

17.

18.

19.

20.

21.

22

2.3!

24

25.

2(i.

27.

28.

29.

30.

31.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

(i.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

14

15.

10.

17.

18.

19.

20.

Thermometer.

40
48
45
42
3!)
43
4(>
35
34
40
41
41
44
44
42
41
42
43
42

;«>

30
32
32
39
39
44
39
53
3i;
40
43
41
42
2(>
24
28
39
.35
31
30
29
31
25
15
18
27
.30
31
39
41
25
IG
17
10

48
49
50
5()
48
52
00
44
M

45 I

48

48'

54

49

42 ,

30

38

40 '

.52

40

4li ;

48

53

45

47

45

42

44

27

27

37

43

3U

31)

23

34

S'l

33

20

25

27

3<i

31

40

40

27

33

19

17

42

40
44
40
40
41
41
39
40
41
42
43
49
42
4li
44
43
51
44
.3(>
31
32
39
.55
42
32
4!)
48
43
32
41
40
34
2i
22
38
■«•'

28
3.3
32
28
28
14
14
24
35
37
37
28
22
24
12
10

Barometer.

30-04

30 14

«l 14

30- 14

W 15

30 14

M) 22

30 32

.30 (HI

29 -97

... 29 91

29-80

J9 70

2905

29 72

_'9 00

29-87

29-85

29-iMI

;m)()o

.30 (18

.!0 ()8

3(t01

29 Hd

.".1 75

29 !M»

29-98

20 !I4

:29-75

2!l ('>2

2)1 lid

29- 00

29 (10

29-03

. . . I2'.t 05

29-80

29-!Kt

3(1 (M)

.30 (M)

30 20

30 12

30 12

29 92

.30'(H)

30 00

30-(HI

30 ( (2

29 .')()

29 31

29 24

29 31

2! 1-24

29 71

29-90

2'.l 81

29 90

30 10

.30 12

30 20

:«l 20

.3(112

30 (Ki

29-85

29-80

29 74

29 -(M)

2!l 41

2!r74

30 10

3(1 15

30 40

30 70

30 10

■M) W

.'X) 22

30 (15

29 9(1

29 tic,

2<.l 70

29 '.H)

;«) 00

:io 10

30 20

30-40

30 00

;«) 00

29 (iil

29-90

29 75

29 (■.2

2!l 41

29 41

... 29-72

:<(i-()(i

3(1 23

;w 32

30 40

.•*0-23

3(»-20

30 10

30 (18

13000

29 99

29 !I9

|2it-92

29 71

2il-C>8

'2it-77

29 84

:{0 (Nl

|30-(MI

3004

3005

.,;5;voo

30 00

29 -99

30 10

3 24

30 00

.... !2!f80

29 (10

29 (10

29-, 52

2!»-.52

29 K-)

3004

30- 10

.30 12

:«) 20

.30 10

:»() 20

,:«)-2o

.30 20

30 10

29 95

29 92

29 94

;29-9(i

<>«)-f).>

29 89

29 08

29 .50

2tl 32

.... 29(12

,29 .-^

29 (10

29 10

29 22

29 43

29 44

29 31

29 25

29-4J

"9 50

29 70

;iO Oi)

,,0 (Ml

29 IH)

<•*•] APPENDIX VII.

Labrador Peninsula, 1893-185)4 — Continued.

371 L

Wind.

Clouds.

X'oteH on weather during Inst 24 hours.

Direction.

F

1

[>rce.

1

o

Il

2

!l

7 1

2

!)

N.W.

x.w.

2

4

4K

OK.S....

C. B.

X.W,

s.

x.w. 2
s.w. -2
S.W. ■..

.. 1
.. 1

7 K.S...

7K.8....

5K

5K

C. B.

N.W.

B.

2 K

3K. S...

B.C.

W.

K. 2

o

7 K. C. . .

(!K.S...

8 K.S + C

C. B.

N.K.

X.

S.W. 2

•>

•>

!» K

4K. S...

OK.S...

C. B.

S.K.

s.

W. 2

3

')

7 K. S..

2Sfc...

2 K

B.C.

N.

X.K.

X. 2

2

2

3K. S...

3K + C..

5K

B. C.

N.K.

X.

2

1

5 K

4.K. S...

3K + C..

C. B.

N.K.

X.

2

2

i» K. C. . .

5K. S...

OK.S...

B. C, iiurura.

X.

X.

1

A

4 K.S...

7K

OK

(). dull.

7 K.S...
X . ...

5 K.S...

OK.S...
lOK. S..

C. B.

Kain in morning, C.B.

1

(!K. S...

8K. S...

X

8 K.S...

7K. S...
10 K.S...

s.

s.w.

.S.W.

2

2 2

C. B., uliowers.

x.w.

<>

8S ....

8K. S...

C. B.

x.w.

x.w.

x.w.

i

•)

')

8 K.S...

tIK. S...

S.K ..

C.B.

s.

s.w.

.3

3

!i K.S...

10 K

8 K

C. B.

s.w.

s.w.

n

3

7 K

7K

4K

B.C.

w.

I

7 K.S...

10 K.S...

10 X

C. B., rain at night.

w.

.2

8K. S...

8 K

4 K.S...

C. B., snow at !l p.m.

w.

w.

w.

2

1

<)

10 K.S...

!» K

'.)K.X...

C. B., 1 incli of snow.

s.w.

2

(1 K. C. . .

7K

!t K

C. B., sti-iwly.

.s.w.

s.w.

w.

1

1

1

5 K

7K

C.B.

s.w.

o

K.S...

B., bright and starry.
B.

s.w.

s.w.

0

1

7 K

8K

ilK. S...

s.

s.

sw.

•>

2 3

8K

(i K . . . .

OK+C.

C. B., rain in early morning.

w. s.w.

X.K.

•>

1 2

8K. S...

CK

7K + C..

B., fuHt moving clouds at "J p.m.

X. X.

N.K.

•>

1 2

5K.S...

5K. S...

4K

C. B., showers.

X.

N.W.

•>

2 2

(iK. S...

7 K. C. . .

3 K

C.B.

w. s.

S.K.

T

2

10 K

OX...

10 N

C.B.

X.K. X.K.

W.

I

2

7K

(i N . . . .

r)K+c..

C. B., showers.

W. X.K.

1

3

ilK+C.

3K + C..

!> X

B. C, bright nioonligiit.

x.w. N.W.

w.

1

•>

7K. S...

OK

OK

C. H., snow.

W.

X.

vv.

2

2

8K

2K

2 K

C. B., aurora.

X w.

x.w.

w.

2

1

4C + KS

7 Kh

5K. S...

C. }i., iitarmigan seen.

s.

s.

s.

1

2

8K

7 K.S + C

8K. S...

C. B.

x.w.

X w.

2

1

2
1

8K

8K

1 K

7 K

8K. .s!!!

B.

x.w.

w.

w.

C.B.

w.

h

7K

OK

8 K.N...

C. B. , snow.

X.

X.

1

1

..; 8X

7 K.S...

OK.S...

C. B. R.

s.w.

s.w.

s.w.

1

o

2 110 K.S...

8N

OK

Snow, C. B.

w.

N.W.

w.

1

2

2 'loK

8 X

2 K

O. dull.

w.

x.w.

w.

1

•>

2 I 3Iv

3K

K

B.

w.

\ w

1
1

1
1

.. 2K

..1 2K....

1 K

2 K

1 K

1 K

B.

w. w.

..

B., auroia.

x.w.

w. w.

1

1

I 1 0 N . ...

OX. ...

3 X

B. C, mist.

w

N.W.I

1

1

..i 4K.S...

4K

5 K

B.C.

S.K.

S.K.

1

1

.. 7K + C..

4K + C..

8K

C. B., rain, ptarmigan sien.

X. K.

s.w. w.

1

*>

2 <i K

4 X

3 K

C. B.

w.

w. w.

M

•)

2 (5 K

CK

1 K

B.C.

s.w.

X

1

1

,. lOK

10 X

10 K

C. B., snow.

w.

W. N.W.

1

1

I 3K

2 K

B.B.

x.w.

x.w.

1

1

8K

7K

C. V.

2H

!

372 I,

f

LAHRADOR PENINSULA.

MKTKOHOLOciicAL Ohskkvations in the

IMacr.

Dat.'.

1

Tlicinionictcr.

d

S

I'ariiini'ti'i.

Xortliw*

•st Kivt-r. LabriKior

18(13 7

2

0

7 1 2 1 U
1

X.iv. 21...
II 22

11 23!!!

II 24...
.1 25 ..
1, 21!...
1, 27...
.. 28...
.. 2!t...
.. 30...
Die. 1. .
,, •»

M ii!!!

" f ■■

'1 .*' . . .

II...

.1 7...

II 8 . . .

!l ..

.1 10...

II n...

II 12...
1, 13...
1. 14 ..
.1 15...
II 111. .
II 17..
II 18...
1. 111...
II 20...
.. 21 ..
II 22
.1 23 !!
11 24...
„ 25...
.1 2(i...
1. 27..
1, 28...
„ 20...
II W»...
1, 31 ..

1804.

Jan. 1...
,, •>

1, ii!!!
t, 4 . . .

II 5. . .

<i
II ( . . .
1. 8...

0. . .
1, 10...

.. 11...

1
25
1 10

! '^

:. 5?

20

2(i
25
211
25
27
•»1

20

15

24

28

24i

21'

13

12

■Xi

20

5

0

-13

- 1
10

2

5

-8

13

-13

7

15

25

-17

- 8
. 2
25

8
12

- 8

- 3
16

•30

1

20 45 20 42 20 (10

3010 30 20 30 18

20 SO 20 (15 20 -55

20 112 20 HL" 20 '42

28 S2 28 ■ S2 20 ' 22

20 112 20 112 20 Si'l

300s 30 10 30 22

30 33 30 33 30 20

20 32 211 35 2024

20 .52 20 50 2042 ;

20 42 20 40 20 75

211 81 20 04 20 52

3iriMl .-to 12 3025

311 04 20 00 20 85

30 id 31) 411 30 .52

30 IS 30 (HI 20 02

20 S'> •>00'' •'000

II

«

in 24

.1 2 11
. 1 30 30

.1 111

15

1 12

1 -'"

! -18

-14

22

11

12

5

- 4
•>

II

ti

It

11

5 j 11
. 7 3
. -15 - fi

-15 I 12

6 3

!3il 111! 30 ii< 3(1 20 j

30 15 30 (i5 3(1 (10

. . !3(l (HP •".I'.li; •".)S2

;; :::::::::

20 55 20 45 211-35

211-72 20 SO 20 -82 .'

20 05 20 01 20 !I3

20 S4 20 82 20 Sll

20 S2 20 S.3 30 (12

»r2(l 20 25 30 15

20 30 2!' 32 20 45

20 .52 20 45 20 42

20-82 :«l (HI 3(1 (M)

15

25

25

-111

- (!
10
21

0

- 4
(1
4

-15

20

-13

- 7
10
10
28
10
25

20

20

25

10

0

15

30

35

•M

. -24

-25

10
10

m

!t
_ *»

2(1

18

0

0

- 3

- 1

- 8
-13

II

It

'20 (14 '2!l .">0 20 41

. .. 20 35 20 30 20 20
•".! .")0 "O 75 •".! 84

i(

„

30 (H) 30 IM) .■«|-02 "
3000 30 02 30 (17 J
20 Oil 20 ;H) 20 80 1
20 72 20 71 20-70 f
20 110 20 5;i ••0-52 1

- (i

-11^

- 3
3

18
*j

- 7

-10

-15
-18

18
!)
2

18

22

-18

10

]•'
-17

10

- 8
18
16
17

-15

-20
-22
-20

- 8
-15
-20

25

-2(1

18

20

-35

.... 20 12 .'0 31 -O "2 i

H

20 2 ,20-31

'."I ■ .1 ;«) (HI

20 52 ]
:<o 23 J

:io 4(1 !30 40

3(1 30 J

30(10 P
20 05 7
30 20 )
20 (12
20 70
20 !M)
20 0(1

I»

!!!!!

1

30-20 3005
20 IHI 20 02
.■<0 12 3' 15

:!! 00 20 75

■ '

20 50 20 (10
20 00 20 80
20 00 20-78

II

20 00 20 S2 20 82 f
20 82 20 S2 "0-84 It

ti

11

20 00 30 (HI
30 10 30-00

30-02 I
30(14 1

1

.J

tow.] APPENDIX VII.

Lal'rador Peninsula, 1893-1894 — Continued.

373 L

N'oti-s on wfiitlicr jliiring Inst 24 liourH.

C. H., rain v.liiili suciti tuniH tnMiow

H.

('. H., snuw.

('. h.

SiiDW, one fiiiit of snow on irnmiid.

C. K

('. 15., (i(Kisf liiiv frozen.

C. I!., Miow.

C. 15., niin.

I!. C. ('., ici' tlontint; in liver.

I!., .-now at noon.

Snow and .-(inalls.

H.. eleiir aiKi calm.

Snow in iMornin^f.

('. If., iun-ora.

('. li., snow, tront and smelt cnuglit

(". I!., amora, riviT fvo/.i^n over.

Is. C, aurora.

C. I!., snow at noon, aumra.

C. H., livei- open.

C. H., snow at nijflit.

.Snow, C. 15.

(". 15.

C. 15., liver lialf o|ien and ice Hoatinjc

C. 15., inncli drifting.

C. 15.

Snow.

('. 15.

('. 15., river open at rapid.

Snow.

('. 15., river fio/.eii.

C. 15.

li.

15.

15.

15., anrorn.

15., iinroiii.

('. I!., snow, rivir open.

hriftiiijr, aurora.

C. 15.

C. li.

15., at !l )>.in. aurora.

15., Iirilliant aiuoru.
i]5., Iirilliant anrora.
LSiiow.

C. 15., Miow.

U.

lirWWant aurora.

374 L

LADhADOR PENINSULA.

Meteorological Observations in the

rinc.-.

XurtliwfMt Rivi'v, I^ln-ndor.

TraverHpin
MiiHki'Rt Fiilln

(iuil Lnk<'

Mimkrat Falls.

Northwest Rivt

Kiililiit Island.
TravfrMpiii . . . .

MtiNkrat Falls.

Date.

18!M.

Jan.

Feb.

Mar.

12.
13,
H.
1.-).
IG.
17.
18.
lit.
'_>0.
21.
22.
23!
24.
25.
2<i.
27.
28.
2'.l.
30.
31.
1.

3!

4.
5.
(i.
7.
8.
!l.
10.

n.
12.

V',.

.(.

15.

Ki.

17.

18.

1!»

20.

21.

22.

23.

24.

25.

2li.

27.

28.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

)i.

TliennoinetjT.

•2(J
-10
18
-10
_ '2

-23

•10

30

0

0

30

0

0

■I

-20

20

.«

20

^ H

2

0

20

-10

■12

-20

8

20

-10

- 8
10

0
-»t
-30
-17

- 5

- 0
2(>

-Hi
(i

- 7
-12

- !(

- 8
-24

30
•20

20
-13

- 5
32
21

5
32
20

0

-10

10

10 1.

20

10 .

10

0

2

-15 .

- 3

-10 .

1?

30 .

11

0 .

8

- 3 .

20

10

33

10

- 2

- 5

5

0

13

- 3

12

- 22

- ;>

25

0

18

3

10

0

- 3

i>

0 .

- 2

-to .

-12

20

0

li .

0

-10

- 8

-23 .

12

10 .

22

- 8 .

0

-12 .

4

10 .

3

-10 .

10

10 .

24

-24 .

-17

-20 .

0

- 3 .

13

- 5 .

5

- 5 .

-15

-lit .

- 3

0 .

8

-8 1.

0

- 5 .

- 5

13 .

- 7

- 2 .

8

0 1.

-10

-2(i .

- 8

-12 .

8

• 5 .

0

- (i .

0

0 :.

5

10

5«)

25

2!t

5

;«

»l

30

25

35

30

Barometer.

2!t-0
2il ti5
2!f82
■«0
21t !l!l
30 (>2
30-30
30-50
30 72
30-01
2!f<Ht
3<l 2<»
at 25
3(t 4!t
3lt 45
»t 42
30 44

at 70
:«o 70
;at'(;(t
aiat
30 10
;w-o5

2! I 75
30 20

aj (H)

2<.t-8)

at 50
ai-50
at 5ti
at 10
at 20
:«) 40
i3o 22
aio5

2!t 42

at 22

30 15

'20 il5

at 20

|2!t !Mi

at 20

,30 OH
30 (to
at 22
30 10
'30 40
30 32
;«)-32

at (t2
at ai
at 22

25-! 15
30 40

2!f70

2!t<;(t

2!t !t5
2!t !Ht

at ;«

3(t'ti(t

at 50
at 48
at .S2
at 20

20 (14

at 20
at ."jo
;-.<t-47
ai-45

30 40

;«f.">8
at 70
mm
at- 48
30 ^tt
at 11

2!f8(t
2itH(i

at 15

2!I!I2

at (HI
at -52
30 rx>
30 at

30-<t<t
30-42

30 at
at 10

2!t !t!»
■2!t 72

at .-)0

2!t (12

at 35

2!t()5

;«ji5
a. 10

2!t !t2
3(1 (IS

at 20
;« 10

30 .52
30 10
.30-12

atai
at (2
at 12

30 25
30 10

>-0» ] APPKNDIX VII.

Labradur Peuinsula, 1693-1894 — Continued.

375 L

Wind.

CloUllH.

Notes on weather during

lost 24 hours.

Direction.

Force.

7

*)

!»

7
1

2
1

9

7

2

n

C. B.

W.

w.

W.

7 K

10 K

N

N.W.

N.W.
N.W.

N.W.

1

I

1
1

I

8N

H N

10 N

OK.S...

4K.

Snow.
C. H.

X.W.

VV.

W.

N.W.

1

o

2

2 K. S. . .

4K. S...

OK

C. W.

X.W.

W.

W. .}

2

1

8 K

■IK

0 K. S.. . .

C. n., heiuy drift

W.

W. ..

1

1

OK

;.! K

H.

W.

S.W.

S.W.

1

1

2

IK

OK.S...

10 S

.Soft, mild.

aw.

w.

N.

N.W.
W.'

1
2

3
1

3

8S.+C..

!)S

ok'..';!;'

8S

Diift.
U.
('. H.

w.

t

7 K. N. . .

8 k

s.

S.W.

W.

3

1

8K S...

8 K.S...

7 K.S...

15. C.

w.

N.W.
W.

S.W. 3

S.K. 2

2

2

2

1

(iK

7S

'.IN

B., snow at ni^dit.

S.W.

3K. S...

ION

w.

W.

N.W.

1 2

o

10 N

10 K. S. . .

ION

■!now.

N.W.

N.W.
W.

N.
N.W.

3 2
2 1

3

1

3 K

U., mirorii.

W.

8S

.'-.K

0 k. .s...

C. B.

NW.

W.

N W.

1 1

1

(IS

3K. S...

0 K.S...

C. B.

W.

N.W.
K.

W.
N.

2

•>

•>

r

1
1

2 K

4K

B., iiurora.
B.

W.

.-)K. S...

!I.S. k...

S.K

S.W.

•>

1

OS

8S. K...

C. B.

H.W.

S.W.

2

1

OK.S...

3K. S...

C. B., nurorn.

S.W.

1

•>

i'

3K.S...

'7's]!!.'.

■7 k. s::;

B., hriillant aurora.
C. B.

S.W.

S.W.

X.W.

N.W.

w. -1

•»

•)

S K. N. . .

8K..S. N.

!) K

Snow drift nil day.

\\.

W.

.... 2

'\

2 K

2K

B., ivurora.

w.

\\.

W. 1

2

•)

8 S

C. B.

S.W.

s.

S.W. 2

o

T

8 K

10 K. C...

K

Dull.

w.

w.

W. 2

1

f>

3S

3C

C. B.

W.

i"

i'

T

4S. K...
3 K

3S

IK

2K

B.
B.

w.

w.

N.

\.

N.W.

1

2

•i

OK

4 K.S...

C. B.

N.W.

N.W.

N.W.

1)

3

3

3 K

B.

N. W

W.
.S.W.

W.
S.W.

•>

2
3

1

2

3K.S,..
2 K. S..

7 K S

C. B.
B.

.S.W.

OK

w.

W.

W. '2

1

2

8N

OK

OK

C. B.

N.K.

N.K.

N.K. 2 1

*>

5K

B.

N.W.

N. N \V 9 >> 1

ION

0 K.S...

ioN

4 K. S . .

ION.

Snow.

C. B., drift.

N.W.

N.K.

N.K. 11 1 1

N.W.

N.W.

W. '3 2

1>

ION

10 N

10 N

.Snow.

N.W.

N.W. 2

a

3K

ION

B. K., drift, at night aurora.

N.W.

W.

W. 3

»>

•1

2K

IK

3S

B. Dull.

W.

S.W.

S.W. 2

•1

:?

2K

2K

3S. ...

B.

W.

N. i;.

N.K. 1

1

•>

3 K

0 K. S...

10 N. . . .

(J. C, aurora.

N.

N.

N.W. 2

• I

•1

0 K

4K

B. C, drift.

N.W.

N.

W. 2

1

•»

C. is., auror.".

W.

S.W.

W. 1

1

1

3 K

7k

B.C.

W.

W.

W. 1

1

•>

4 K.S...

C. B.

s.

S. . . 2

2 (! K. S...

ION

8 K.S...

Drift and xnow.

s w.

S. ..2

2 2 K

3 K

10 K

C. B.

s.

s.

S. 2 2

2 TK.S...

0 K.S...

'.; \

C. B.

W.

w.

W. 2 2

1 2K

IK

B.

S.

S.W.

S.W. 1 1

1 7 K. S. .

OK' + C.

5 S

C. B.

s.

s.

K •' •'

2 ION

OS

Rain in a.i..., C. B.

w.

K.

K.

2

2

2

2K

OK.+C.

10 K

(.),, rain and .inow.

376 L

I.AHHAIIOU PKNIN8UI.A.

?' TfiORor' \OAr, On,«EHVATir\s in th«^

I'lace.

Dati

Tln'iliion;"tti'.

l.Si)4.

Mm

Minijii Kivcr. .

Wiiu>kiv|mu Lake

Apr

Hnmilton RivtT, liclowMiriuid Falls

H
<)
Id
11
1-'
1«
14
i:.

11!

17

IS
1!)
L'O
•Jl

>iO

•I'.'t

-*7

'_".•

nil

31

1

2

:i

4

s
■I

10

II
l-J
i;t

14

v>
1(1

17
is

lit

•Jo

I'l

L'2
23
24

2S
211.

25

2S

1(»

20

0

10

a

15

2!t

40

an

31

1

12

10

12

20

0

20

1(1

17

25

1

10

IS

.)

i:.

!t

;>

2S

<j

»)

15

12

- ii

10

- S

25

10

2S

12

11

10

23

- :i

15

0

12

s

30

0

:«)

14

30

s

20

10

Xi

5

33

i)

40

15

52

IS

5H

12

52

20

54

;?5

52

25

53

27

34

:«

45

:<(!

3!t

:<o

40

:«

3S

20

41

25

45

31

31

15

42

2(i

47

23

42

14

2(1

10

27

0

25

40

31

o

4

0

0

20

5

15

12

3
10
12
10
10

o

3
20

S

0

0
22
2(1
20
21
21
03

;is

as

45

4S I
42 j
45 !
37 I

as I

35
3S
25 I
4(1 I
42
2(i •
3S
3! I
3(i
IS

Hiiii.Mietti

2!( 7(>
30 20
30 30
30 45
30-02
21" 32
2!(S2
30 (15
2!t!l2
21 1 SO
2".l '.12
30 22
30 '25
3(t(IS
3(» 35
30 04
2;i-74
20 55
2'.t (i(i
2; (34
2S 44
20 (12
2! I 25
2S 11(1
20 (15
2S-70
I2S (io
!2!i(Ki
120 4(1
'20 42
120-45
'20'(lo
[20 -S5
:2!t-05
120 02
'20 7(1
20 02
20 S2
20 (10
20 5S
2! I -5(1
20 -S3
20 51
20 30
20 5(1
20 2(1
20 (12
20 -5(1
20-35
20-5(1

•'0

7(1

:v>

20

30

3(1

30

20

20

0(1

20

5'*

3(' (15
3(1 42

30 lo'
30 3(1
2! I -5(1
•'0 (IS
20 -44
20 17
20-2(1
2S 57
20 (15
20 (IS
2S 0(1
L".l (1(1
2S 3(1
2S-54

2;i (12

20 3(1

2: 1 32

2! I 42

2! I (12

20 S2
20-45

20 SO

2! I 74

L'O S(i

20 (12

20 50

20 (12

20 50

20 77

20 30

.0 45

20 4S

20 1(1

20 (1(1

20 45
2! I 24
20 23

2! I 35

20 (10
20 S(l

20 2(1
2! I (12
20 02

20 7(1
30 22
30 40
30 12
20 (.2
• Ml ■ f^'^

2'.l-02
20 ■S5
20 S2
20 ■S2
30-15
30 30
20 Ot
3( I 25
3(1 ii-i
20 54
20 5S
20 52
20 34
:2S-S4
2S-7(i
20- is
2S 02
2S ■ S5
20 -00
2S 35
2S 72
20 Is
20 42
20 -42
20-40
20 (15
2:1 05
20 '.12
20 S4
20 7(1
20 S5
20 (12
20 -.52
20 4S
20 .5(1
2:1-72
20 2(1
20 45
20 Id
2; I 45
20 (II
20 14
20 .54

20 Id
20 42

20 7s
20 ■04

to* J APPE.NDI.X VII.

Labiudor Peninsulu, 1^93-181)4 — Continued,

377 L

Wind,

Dircitinii. ; I'liice,

CIouiIn.

Xoten on wca'licr iliirin(( lust 'J4 Imnrs.

7

<)

1 "

7

2
•>

0

! "

2 i !l

.SiKiwiiiid rain.

('. B.

B.

B.

C B.

B. C

B. B.

B.

C B.

0. (J.

0. I).

B. B. B., aiinna.

C. B., .snc.w.
V. V. 1!.

B. B,, aiinira.

B. B.. auroia.

B.. \m/.\.

('. B. '

C B., haze.

Snow and lain.

Drift and .•fiiow.

B. Dull.
1!. C

C. drift.

B.. lirilliaiit anroiii.

Siio« and rain.

CI'..

Drift and lia/tf.

B.

0. Dull.

C B., aurora.

B. B.

B., aiiicira.

B. B. i!.

B. B.

B. B.

B. B.

B. B.

Aurora. B. B.

B. C, liazi' at night.

B. B.

C li.

0. Dull.

C B.

1). Dull.

Snow am', rain, at nipti

B. V.

Hniii.

C B.

C B.

C B., rain.

c w. 0.

Snow, liald eagli- si'cn.
B. C

E.
W,
W.
\\-.

H.

W.

\\.
W.

s.
.s.w.

N.W.

N.W.

W.

w.'

s.

N.
N.

W.

A\-.

N.W.

K.

X.W.

N.W.

W.

E.

E.

K.

S.E.

W.

w.

W.

w.
w.
w.
s.
w.

w.

s."

w.'
w.
w.
w.

•>

10 C.

10 N.

fiK. ,C..
<: K. S...

2 K

7S.+C..

■3k;.':;:;

SK.

W.
W.

2 •> 2
1 T 1

IK

4K. S ..

2 k'. . ! ! ; !

(iS.+C.

'(Vk.!;;:;

(S K. S...
7K.S..,
4K.S...

W.

s.w

8.

w.
w.

' s."

O .)

ii 1
■1 .>

1 !..

i'l::
1 1
1 1

1
0

i

i'

1

2

1

i'

. . .

4K

li K

10 S. K . .

'7K.'s::.

10 K. S...

s.
w.

<1 K

7K. 8...

w.
w.

N.W.

A
1
3

o
1

o

1

2

SK. S...
7K.S...

"■i'K. '.'.'.'.'.

H N

■

■ 'n. '

■■

'2k.s..';

3K.

2C . ..
S K. 1 C.

MiNt

.S X

7X

0 K. .

2 K

li K

iox!;;;;;
IX

N.
N.

s.

N.
N.

.S.W.

w.

E.
N.W.
N.W.

s'.'

\v.
w.

s.

1
3

i 2

i 3

7 Xi .'.■.■.■■
4K.S..

W.

1 2
1' 3
4 4
•2 3

2 5

3 3

1

4

>>

5

5K.4C..
4S.+C..

4K

lOX

7 K.tC.
4K.

■2K.;;";;

5S.+C..

iiVx;;;;;;

10lia/.v....

N.W.

v..

N.W.
N.W.

'AC

3K

ION

4K

■4K.+C.;

.5 K

lOK.S + C

N.W.
E.

S.

3 2 . ,

1 \2 2

2 2

3 K

!»K. + C..
3S

4K. S ...

SH. K ..

i:.

I 2

i' T

i '..

4.S. K ..' (iS. K.

w.
■ w.

2

7K. S...

IK. '.'.'.'.■.

1 K

IK

4K

"\K '.".'.'.
4 K.+C.

"\K.'.'.'.'. .
3C. + K..
4 K.+C.

•ik'.s...
10 K

(iK. S...
ItK. S...
10 N

3 C

8 K.+C.
2H

2 K

(i K. S. .
4K. S...

lOK.H...
4K.S...

3 K

10 X

loK.S...

(IC

10 X

10 K

10 X

2 K . . .

w.

E.

.. 1 1

n'. i;.

N.W.'

1

s.
s.

E.
S K.
N.W.

E.

' E.
N.W.

. . 2 1 . .
I) 1

2 2 C
2 2..
2 1 ..
..2 1
.. .. 3
2 ! ..

4K

4S

7K.,S...
10 K

5K. S...

i»K.S...
10 \

6 K . . .

clouds.

N.W.

S.E.

1

2 i
1 1

J 2

j i

1 K

8 N

3K+C..
8K. .
liK + C.

(Vk. s.'.'.

io N

SK.S...I
4C \

»K+o.:

IK 1

7K.S...'
3 K

n!w.

K. !
N.W.I
N.W.
N.W.

S. v..
.S.W.

E.

W.
N.W.
N.W.I

S.W.

s.
s.w.

N.W.
W.

2

2'
2 ,

378 L

LAIIRADOR PENINSULA.

METKOROt.OOirAL On8ERVATION8 in the

IMacr.

\h\U'.

Tlirnnciiiwtcr.

1

55

Hiirniiii'tfr,

18!»4.

7

2

0

42

54
32

2»
33
28
38
32
31
20
25
41
.-)0
30
20
32
35
40
44
40
48
»i

;i5

3!)
40
48
45
43
45
44
48
48
48
52
48
47
35
37
40

40
.S8
30

34

. .

7

2

0

llainiltuM |{i\ei\ Uflow (irmxl FuUh, .

Ontal.lrhnui

(Jrimd Fall.s

M

April IM)...
May I . . .

M 9...
" 4...
.. 5...
„ .....
" ( . . .
.. 8...
.. 11...
.. 10...
.. 11...
M 12...
" 13 ..
.. 14...
" 15...
.. 10...
.. 17...
" 18,..
>. l".l...
M 2(»...

M 21...

n 22...
M 23...
" 24...
M 25...
M 20,..
,. 27...
., 28...
M 20...

.. ;«». .

.. 31...
.luiK^ 1 . . .

M 2

.. ^ .'.

M 4...

n 5. . .
.. 0...
" ( . . .

M 8...

.1 '.1 . . .

.. 10...

M 11...

M 12...
.. 13...
.. 14...
M 15...
" 10...
M 17...

M 18...

3

. 1 30

.1 37

21

• 24
. 32
.' 18

31
. 30
. »)
. 30

32

48
28

3i>
. ! 30

;«t

. I 35

38

. , X>

. : ;«)

30

.! 44

44

38

.' 38

4(»

. 37

.' 48

40

45

40

37

• ?!

.lO
37

3.">
37
37
.58
44
44
. '■ .Vi
.1 42

4!)
00
41

33

;i4

34
42
37
34
30
38
48
02
32
3(t
37
37
52
58
40
54
44
44
CO

00
05
54
00
54
57
58
.50
.'lO
05
05
40
45
45

54
42

42

40

' 5!l
68
(iO

20 05
20 4(1
28 .58

28 70
28 70

20-00

28 71
28 42

28-82

2<l 65

28-08
28 -.55

28-82
28 -40

M ,

tl

Bi^f Hill, INirtaj^t' nnit<*

28 -.2 2S 15
28 72 2H 70
28 4(1 28 22
27-87 27 '.15
28 18 2S18
•J8-4S •'Sr)(l

2s 72
2S .55
28 01

II

28 03

2s 31
28 05

.. . 'iA-S7 ".S'.V

2S .52

28 .•>8 2S 4(1
28 25 L'S ;«1

2S 40

L'8 4(1

28 40 28 48 '_'8 l(i

M

M

28-48 28- 10
28 32 28 .•<2
28 2(1 28 .'IS

28 40

2s:<o

•>S-4L>

28 44 2S (1(( -'8 (1(1

(irftiHl Fftlln, Sjirin^,^ (.'anj|»

28-71 28 s;!
28 !l(l 20 (Ml
28 03 28 !I2

28 ■ 88 28 ■ 82

2S 02
2S !(5
28-.s(i
•'S (13

^1

28 TiO 28 51 28 48

,,

28 -."lO 28 48 28 -.52

28 (8 L'S .VJ 28 .'HI
•>S ■••> "S .-1(1 "S'.-i4

!28 ,"iO 2S .■>4 28 ."14

28 ■.-|2 28 18 28-40

t28-,'iO 28 l.-i 28- 50

l!>8 liO ••8 47 is 40

28- 4< 2S-48
28 .->(» 28 40
28 ;<(» 2S13
28-08 28 (14
27 8,s -27 S'A

2S 40

Ilnnuhon River, aWjvu (irand FalU. .

II M , ,

tt M . .

2S »i
2S 13
27 '.(4
27 Kl

II 11 . .

....

27 70 27 '.12

28 10 28 14

28 (i5
•'S "4

•>S ''4 •>8 •>:< -'S •>!

j

28 24 28 |((

28(15 2S 12

28 114

•>s •>•'

28-;<o 28 20 -'srCi

'>8 ■:<.-• "s .■.(!

28 52

37 '

28 (10 2S ."id

•>s .-ill

Saiidv Lake

'"'.50
,50
48
44

28 .OH 28 (12 28 51
•>S 4'> "S .'id "S 3i>

2S :iO 28 24 2S (12

28 (I" lis (Ml L'SdO

28 <I2 2S 2(1 2S 35
28 4(1 28 34 2S-20

low.") APPENDIX VII.

Labrador Peninsula, \S93-lSdi.~Continiie<l.

379 L

Wind.

Uii'i'ctiiin.

Force.

8.K.

N.W.

H.

S.

S.K.

W.

S. K.

.S.W.

N.W

N.W

X.

S.K.
E.

x.w.

S.W.

N.k.

.s.'k.

S.W.'

N.
X.

S.W.

s.

H.
N.

X.

w.

S.W.

s.

S.E.

w.

s.

S.K.

w.

s. K.
S K.

x.w.
x.w.

X.K

X.
N.W.

K.

S. K.
S. IC.

w.
w.
w.
w.

s.

S.K.
W.

XK.

S.
S.K.

S.W.'

's.'w.

X.
N.

8.W.

S.

s.
x.w.

S.W.

S.K,

S.K.

X.

s.

' 'w.' '
x.w.

N,

N,

K.

S.

w.

w.

x.w.

w.

I S.K.
\ S.W.

1

S.W. !.

S.W. 2

X.

S.W.'

I

X.

x.w.
x.w. x.w.

S.W. S.W.
N.K.

i:.

S.W.

S.

3 3

; K.

! S.W.

'2 '2
3 ij
2 2

.. 1

..il
1 2

■> !.>

1 IT 1

..!! 1

.2 1

1 1

1 ..

I 1

1 1

CIcmuIk.

IK
lOK + C
7K.S

lOK. H
10 K. H
0 8.K

1 .

I 1
•>

'. i

1 ji

'2'L

2 2
2

2 i

a.w. 1 2 1

X. 2 2 2

X.W. 3 2 2

10 X
ION
{ION
I H K.
10 K.
' TS.
ION
ION
10 s.
10 N
ION

3S.
loK + C
10 s.
ION

"S.

IK.
2K.

2S...
110 K. S
' (! K. S
3 K. S
8 K. S
2 K. S

10 X ..
!IS...
IK..

10 S ..

10 X . .

10 X . .

7K. S.

10 S....

"S ...

10K. S .
loK + C.
10 s ....

GS + C .

4K. S..

s+c .
10 s..
2S

I i

HK.
4K

10 X

s..

»K. S..

, lox ....

, UK. S..

IS

10 X . . . .

lOH + X.

10 X

2 K

10 S

4 K

10 X

10 N

ilOS

!lON

I .•) K. S .

I 7K.S..

7S

MM

(iS

., IK
. 3 K
. 3K
. 2K
.■) K.
. 10 K.
. OS

r)K.

. !!S.
li S .

. 7S.
ION
ION

.; 7S.

I

3S...

OK..

I 5K. 8

! 7K.S,

;ios...

7S...
3S...

1 (;c^i>

lOlmxe

0 K. S

i 2 K. S

(!K. 8.
IK..

10 S ...

1 K...
10 S...

is..

3 S+C
to N . . .
10 X . . .
10 X . . .

2K...
10 S + C
10 s....
10 8 . .
10 X . . .

10 X . . .

10 s

7 K. .

7K + C

8S ...
10 S. ...
10 8 . . , ,

2K...

'i'k' .'!.'!

2 K . . . .
3S

2 K . . . .
IK...

4 K,
7 K
7K,
7K + C
78..

7 K.a..

78 + C .
10 X ... .

IIM

8K. 8..

NntcH on WfAther rluriiii; Innt 24 hour*.

C. R, (). .lull.

(). ijiill, II., tliundrr. liliukii\K'kH bccii.

Knin iiikI miuw, n ImttfrHy nn<l Mevi-riil

IlllltliH HCt'll.

C H. IJ., riwr-liri'iidtiMJ KrimlM'ck Noen,
.Snow nml ruin, Cniiiulii kooh'" necii.

iSllOWl'lK, < '. H.

C. 15., liiiKc.

Kiiiii imd Know.

.SiKiw and ruin.
. .SudW.
.!('. 11. 11.
, {C. It., sliiiwers.
. ,(). dull, sliowcrH ; mliins "cm.

Sniiw.
, Snow, II l)liick ln'ar and grny (jceMe He«'n.
. i). didl, ."now. fsccn.

V. \i., snow and rain ; nmty K>'a(.kle
, Snow and rain.
. C. H., fctnllM Htji-n,

iC. (). dull.

IC. H.

.IKnin. C. 15.
. C. 15.
. 15. 15. 15.

I'., nnps(iuit()fs in ninnlKTw.
."Wallows "ci'n.

S.

S.

, S.

H..

15.

15.

15.

15,, it'(' foinicd hiHt niplit.

15., ice fonnrd last night.

4S.
7K.

8.

8K + C

2S

4S

i 8C + K
1 8C + S
lOS + C

OK..
i 7C4S

B.
. H.

15.
. 15.
. C.
. C.
. C.
. C. 15.
. 15. C.

. Kain, C. 15.

. C. 15. [shower.

. iC. 15., ifcfornifd Inst night ; thunder
. \C. C, rain ami snuw. __!;fj-
. IC 15., severe "now 8torni. 1*^ ''i

Hain, ('. 15., roliin's nest foinid having
fietus well develoiwd and partly
feathered.

15., ice formed.

C. 15., Viola eanina in bliMini.J
. 15. C, snow ; partridge nest eggs
partly hatche<l. [hatched.

. C, snow and hail ; young wiHxlpecker
. C. I'., Osprey's eggs found.
. C. 15. Isonie placen.

. C. 15., tnibroken ice still in lakes in
. C. 15.. ."Ifj^'ht frost last niglit.
. O. dull, sh>)wers.
. C 15., showers.
. C. !>., tliernioinpter broken.

3S0 I.

t.AliRAttOK HKNINHVLA.

Mktkokomii.icai, OnHKiivATioNN in llic

l>lltr.

1MII4.

'riifiiiiuiniti r.

lliinniicti r.

Dyk.' Like

I'i'titNiknintii I.nkf

A>liiimii|ii llraiK'li

l(iu'li-'''t |Miiiit r>'i\<'lii'(t on llaiiiiltiiii
l{i\i I- nil A-lnmiii|ii liniiii'li

Sniiily liiiki-

.Micliikainiiii Lak<'

riiiv

Sniulv Lakt

Aujf.

( )>iikiiiiiiii>wiiii Liiki'

Attinniixkoiiak Lako,

Konmiiic Hiver.

lit
I'll

[•iV

i\.

211.
27.

2M.
21t.

I

3..
4..

5..
I)..

H..
II..

10..
11..
12..
1»..
14..
15..
1(1..
17..

IH..
111. .

20..
LM..
22

I'ii !

24..

2."i..
21) .

2s.
2! I.

:<o.

•M.

1

H.

0.

10.

2N

2K

2s

2>*
2.S

•_',s
2S

:i4
:i4

.'•'

•V'l

INI
SI'
'.'2
45
li-J
X<
V,
'X>
12
•s2
7s
72

It;

2ti
411

45

:h

02
7ii
s2

OS

2tl

;i2
:ti
:«i

112
.•12

2.S
2S

2s
2.S
2s

114

•_'s

■M>

2.S

41

2S

IS

2s

12

2s

14

2s

02

2s

21

2s

211

2« 30

2s :u

2.H ;v.'

•JS M

2s ■ .'12

2s -Jti

2s ti.'i

•JS L'4

2s 44

•JS- 45

2S-.-.2

•jx 25

27 s-J

•J7 Wi

•js tis

•J7 !I5

2S 05

2s lit

2> .".2

2s 5!

.'S t'll

2s 42

2s ;vj

2s ;c.

2S 45

2.> 42

•js 2i;

•JS Hi

2s 15

•JS 05

27 70

27 7s
27 7s

•'7 '.I-'

.'s Hi

2s Hi

_'S l'".!

2S 32

2S 12

•JS ai

.'S 12

2s av

2s u'l

•Js IJ

27 If.'

•J7 7ti

2i 1 1
J 05

•JS (14

JS 11

2s 24

2S •_'-

•JS-J(i

j.s a4

2s H2

_'s ;-fj

•Js ;<(!

2s ;tL'

2s •JJ

JS 01'

J.S («

2s 4ti

JS ;<'j

2s 12

•JS 'ja

2S 42

JS 1 1

JS :vj

JS aj

JS IJ

2S 14

JS a-j

•JS 41

JS 4tl

•JS 42

JS IL'

2s 12

JS 1-j

2S 10

2s 24

JS (la

•JS 114

JS (Hi

•JS -Jit

•JS a2

JS .•111

JS as

JS 42

JS a2

L'S 111'

27 !ttl

JS irj

2S 14

JS (M

•JS 12

JSM

•JS tHI

•JS (tj

JS IMi

2s J.".

2S 25

2S L'tl

2.'< a2

lO* I AI'PKNDIX VII.

Fiikhradiir Pfiiinsiilii, IS'J.'MMOl.— C'(>»i/i(ii«<?</.

.181 t

Will. I.

Diii'i'tiiin. Viiro',

S. \V.
N.W

M.W.

a It

s.w.

N.W.

N.W.

N.W.
N.W.
N.W.
N.W.
.N.W.

W.

N.
N.W.

i;.

s.

N.W.

I N.W.

' N . '
N.W.

n K, s
ic K
U K. .S

R.
E.

8.K.

S.

s.w.
s.w.
s.w.

N.W.

I.

S. I
M.

,s.w.
w.

H. 3

I

2

'.'.'.'.'.. \

1

.S.W. •->

i

2 '

3

1
1

i
•1

.1

;i

i

•J

•i

2 a

.S. K.

K.

2 .

1

K.

K.

K.

1 1 1

K.

.. I '..

t

S.

S.

1 •-• •-•

N.

N.

1 L' ,

N.W.

N.W.

N.W.

•-' 2

•>

N.W.

N.W.

•J 2

N.W.

N.W.

.> .>

N.W.

N.W.

•> .»

N.W.

N.W.

. 2

i

i

W.

W.

. 2

2

W.

W.

W.

2 3

*l

N.W.

N.W.

.1 .>

s.

s.

W.

.» .>

2

N.W.

N.W.

3 3

S.W.

S. W.

S.W.

2 3

3

10 H.
(OS
t K
10 N
111 K.
10 N
U) l\.

I K.
1(1 S
lllH.
lllS,

7K.
10 s

los

III K.

II K.
ION
10 S.

s.
N.W.
N.W.

K.

K.

i;.

S.W.
.S.W.
N.W.

X.W.
W.

NAV!

w.

N. W.

N.W.
K.

!•:.

K.
S.W.

S.w.

N.W.

s.
s.w.

N.W.

s.
s.w.

s.w.

N.W.

N.

S.W. :
N.W. :

N. i;.

s.w.

N. W,

3 2

N.W. .
S.W. I..
N.W. 2

1

S.'V. I..
s.w. '2

10 S
10 K
10 1<

s K

KK
ION

1*
3 K

10 S

ION

10 s
3K
li K. S
7K.S

10 N .
7 K. S
2 K. S
(i K. S
7S...

10 N. .

10 S...

ION. .

ION. .

S

loK. S.

lOS ...

. 10 H . . .

I 1 K. ..

.iloK. S.
N.W. ..2 2 10 K.S

CIoikIk.

Niitt". nil wiiiilnriliiniiK liiNt 24 hiiurit.

10

10 K (C H. C.

K. S...I 3K CM.

S il"N ■• . <". ll.- ""ill-

. . 10 N . . . . Kiuii, tliiincliT mill liirlitiiiiiK.
.1 2 K.S... o, .lull. r. II.

. . 11 S I (' . . II. II., ii,. foiiiiwl liiMt niulit.

.,| tlK.S .. IJniii, f. II.

r 10 N .. k^.iii.

..| 7 K.S... Uiilii, n. .lull. (7 ft.m.

. . .*< K. S. , . ('. It., icf foniicil, II Hurry "f "iiow itt

.. 2 K .. It., I( I' foiiiii'dla^t iiiirlil.

. i » K.S... (>. .lull.

..! 4 K.S... C. I!.

..ION ... . O. ilull, r.iii.

.. 10 S V. It.

7S^(! .. <'. II., |iiin>iiif( ^Ikiwitn.

. .'• 7 K. .S. . . ('. It., iiiiKsiiuf >liii\\iiM.

.. H K.S + fr'. 11., iK.sMlltf «||,>«..l-.

. MK. S... II.

■ los c. It.

7 .S f. It., ■.liiiwiT...

N

K.S,

S t (.'

K«...

K.Si

K.S

K.S.

K

s. ..

K.S

s . .

K.S

K.S.

S....

M...

S,.

K.S .

S- K

MS....
10 K.S
(iS .
7S...
C. S . .

10 s....

(IS....
(IS....

2 S. K .
(iS. ..

i; K. s.
:t Ks. . ,
III K. s

3 K.S.
I K.S.

10 N . . .
10 N . . .
I K.S.
ION. ..
ION. ..
lOS. ...
los.

Hi !•:

!l K

5.S.

ION.

!IK.

10 K. .

10 s...

10 s...

«s..

10 K. S

s..
s..

K. ,

s.

s.

10 s...

7S ..
H K. S
7S...
10 N . .
7S ..
2.S...

iVs'!'

S K. S

M N . .
. 7 K
10 N

0 N

II K
10 N . .
i 3 K . .
I 3 K. S
H K. S. +

; s N . .
;ioN. .

! !l s . .

C. K. S
1 '.IS. ,.

10 K.S

!t S .
I 7S ..

lOS ,.

10 s...
10 s .
los
7 K.S

. ( '. ll., tliiindiM' .•.liiiwtr.
( '. H., >liiiHi'rH.
('. It., "iMiwcrx.

'". I!., "llnwclN.

.iC It., mill.

. |{.'. li., lain.

(('. It., Iiiiil aiiil ^liciwciH.

■ iC It.

It. ('., tliuiicliT KliuwcrM.
• !•;*. •'. I'>- [iilKlit.

('. It., <li(iwfr!( at iiitcivalH (liiriliir

. c. n.

. ('. It, rain.
<]• ll., iiiiii. Iiiiauo

0. I!., |itiiniiij{aii in lull siininicr |ilu-

. Steady rain.

. SIhiWI'IH,

It.. Iii'avy fnwt la«t iii(.{lit.
C ('. It., rain, nhnwirs.
. . ('. It., rain.
. . K. H., Iiiavy shnwcrn.

('. ('., sliciwirs.
. . C". U, H., liiavy rain.
. .iKaiii, 0.
. . C. (".

Hiiiii.

■ <-'.<'., showers. T'linfT.
. 'Mist, iiiucli lain, tliimdir and li({lit-
. ("., nulls, rain, tliuiider uiid litjlitninK.

f'., rain.
. . V. ('.

■ ■ C. It., ice tornied.

382 L

LADRADOR PENMXSULA.

Mkteorological Observations in the

IMatv.

Datf.

1H!)4.

TheriiKJiiiftfr.

RomaiiM- Kivcr Aug.

St. .Tiilin Rivt-r.. .
Ht. .loliii Villiijje.

Miiigan

11
12
1.3
14
1.J
Iti
17
IS
lit
20
21
2o

23
24

Barometer.

2S-3(>
2.S-42
2S-42
2.S 52
2«r)2
2s;«i
'>H'2r,
2H-40
27-«
2«1.")
•2H<M
i21» iV)
i2'.tS4
,2!)7J

2S34

|28

28 4S

!28

2H-47

'28

2.H .j->

28

2.S-4tl

28

2S1S

,28

28 LV)

28

•27 'M

27

28 08

28-

28-20

28

2!l :!,■)

.11)

2il 02

2!l

2!) -80

,20

2!) -80

20

•37
44
")2
54
42
10
42
78

•12
04

' 55

■K4
711
83

u>w. j APPEXD1.\ VI!.

Labrador Peninsula, 1897-lS9i — Continued.

383 L

Wiml.

oi 1..

Xtitt's on wcnthi'r diniiit; \.\A 24 liourn.

1)

7

ircftiiiii. j Force.

2 ;- !. 7

o

2

1
•>

it

1

1

•>

"■

1

1

7

o

■1

s.

s.
s.

1
X. X. ..

X.W

S. S. 2

S. 1 .... .'5
S. S. 1
S. t X.E. il

4.-;

IS

3S .. ..

•; K.S...
us

10 .\

10 s

10 K

10 X

•4C.+S .
10 S

7S

5 K.S...
10 K

2S ...
2K. ..

2S ...

7 K.S.

10 X. ..

10 X . . .

!IS....
3K. S.
7S....
10 X. ..
.-)S ...

,"> s

S K.S.
7K. ..

3S

2K

7S

10 X

10 X

10 X. . ..

2 K . .

2 K

3S

10 s

7S . ..
MS

10 X

2K

15.

15. 15.
C. 15.

C. 15., sIlOHlTf.

Kiiin.

Stfiidv mill.
C. C. to C. 15.

X.

" 's! '

W. X.W ..

W. j.. .. 2

X. 1 ... 2
N. X. ..

k'.k w. i

W. W. 1

2
1
1
2

i
•1

1
i'

C. 15.

C, ruin.

C, ruin, C.

C. to C. 11.

C. 15.

C. 11., rniu.

C. 15., showers.

3st I,

LA IlItA I >0 R I'EX 1 X.SU LA.

' A P P E N

MKTKOROLOfilCAL OliSKRVATlONS ill the

I'lliri'.

IS!!.-).

liivirSt. linwic'iifi'at iiiniitl) of Miiiii-

oiiiKMii liivcr tiily

■' " " ....| "
Maiiicimsan Hivci j ..

.Maniiiiii^riili l.aki'. .
Laki' MiniclialaKaii

I'lil"!' MaiiiciiaKaii Hivir . ,.

Caclii'at flint <if iKjitanc naitr
I'lirtagi' imitc

Attikipjii Lakr. ,.
Littli- AMiknpi L;

Ili'iRlit of I,aii(l, Nii'lii<-im |{i\i T
Naiikiikan Laki'

Littli' Attikopi I-aki'

Rivi-a V......

W'afi rulii'd Laki

Au^',

Maiiicuanaii Hivci- lidnw WatiTslifi
I.ak-

ID.
11.
1-.'

i;t

14.

ir..

Ki.
17.

IS.
HI.
20.

•JH.
•24
•S< .
•2(<.
'-•7.
'2X.
21t
30,
31
1.

:i

4

10
11
12
13

14

i:«

10
17

IH

111

Tlll'niinlnrtrr.

.V_»
lill
.".4

i;o

O.')
02
01)

r>2

.MS

."ill

.V.I

."lii
■(•.,•)
;■)!(
.V»
.■)0
4S
00

I'lO
.")5
40
.")0
IS
4S
4«
4S
4S
4.">
.V)
.")il
45
53
.57
55
45
45

52

4S
40
54
4!)

05
O'.l
.SO
SO
!l."i
75
.S5
ss

S5
05

SO

OS
Oil
71
so
so
74
(i.5
lio

I'lO
05
05
05
(IS
05
»i7
05
00
5S
liO
05
05
Ql
02
05
05
77
Oil
(H>
57
72
05

m

00
IKI

(ill

.54

05
00
.55

llainiiii tir.

,53

13

:tO (Ml

211

115

211

115

04

42 3(ro'.l

30

.!.>

211

HI

01

TiO 2'.l !I5

211

lUi

211

s7

70

.■<!! 211 '.111

211

112

211

7S

72

2'.l 7'.'

211

74

Lll

04

1 .1

2".M15

•"1

0-'

-11

,5"

05

01 211 47

•Ml

1"

"11

31

07

.55 211 12

"11

3-'

"11

3''

OS

21132

211

32

211

211

.50

40 211 111

2'.!

111

211

111

I'lO

32 211 .50

211

112

211

S.5

02

111

211 IMI

2-.I

SI

211

05

00

.50

211 (i4

211

75

211

70

.511

211 .SO

211

so

211

s.5

(ill

43

211 .Sll

211

1.)

211

70

5S

llii 211 71

211

71

211

Oil

50

."■5 211 05

211

51

211

Hi

51

LMi -Jil

211

.35

211

II

4S

15 2H 01

211

Oil

211

02

i)i)

.35 211 00

211

55

211

.■•>

00

211 (ill

211

III)

211

.1.1

,5(1

41 i

211 54

"S

.S(l

2S

7'5

(i2

50

2S 70

2S

.")0

2S 15

52

."ill

2S 10

2S

IS

2S 4S

.5(1

40

2S .311

2S

IHi

27 HI

40

4S

27 115

27

IC

27 si

40

33

27 72

27

SO

27 SO

4S

10

27 ■S4

27

so

27 so

52

45

27 lill

27

70

27 so

45

32

27 110

27

112

"7

114

52

15

27 112

27

HI

27

IMi

IS

42

27 114

27

117

2S

III!

.5(1

45

2S 10

2s

10

2S

Ki

51

35

2S-2'

2S

20

2S

.30

(iO

45

2S 3i,

2S

30

2S

35

50

.5(1

2S 32

2S

.32

2S

311

57

40

•2H W

2S

3S

2S

4(i

57

50

2S-4(1

42

2S

2(1

55

50

2S 05

2S

IKI

"7

US

5(1

52

2S 14

2S

;tii

2s

12

42

42

2S 111

2S

30

2S

4(i

(i2

42

2S 12

2S

12

2S

35

52

52 2S 35

2s

32

2S

11

ih)

52

2S (14

2S

04

2S

It

52

4!l

2S 14

2S

14

2S

24

5(1

4S

2S 2(i

2S

2S

2S

24

40

42

2S 30

2S

32

2S

ICi

m

32

2S 30

2S

20

2S

20

51

52

2S (15

2S

10

2S

HI

3S

42

2S0S

2S

24

2S

30

APPENDIX VII.

386 L

DIX VII.

Lal)rador Peninsula, 1805.

Winil.

Direction. Force.

N.W
W.
W.

"a"

"a"

s.

s.

N.
N.

S.

s.

nV

■"eV
w.

K.

N. K.

N.
H.W.

•<.\V.

s.

.w

7

2

"

N.K.

N.

:

W.

W. 1

W.

W.

W.

W.

w.

s.

s.

H.

s.

H.

1 •-'

2 |2

H.

N.W.

W.

H.

S

H.K.

S.

N.W

W.

a.

H.K

s.

N.
N.
N.

s.w.

s.

N.W.
N.W.
N.W.

.s.

s.

s. w.

I N.

I «:

w.

I K.
N.W.

s. !■:.
s. !•;.
w.

N.
S.W.
H.W.
S.W.

s.

H.
S.

i N-

: N.

' S.

1
1

i

li

N.W.
N.W.
N.W.

S.

s.

'n.'

K
W.
W.

N.w'.

s. !•:.
s. !•:.
\. !■;.

12
P..

r;2

, N.
S.W.
i W.

S.

S.W.

i H.

. 8.
H.

.1 S.
.IN.W.
I S.W.

, 'S.W.

I N.W.I,.

I ... i-

! i"
n!w.'!!

S.W. ;..
W. 2

Clouds.

2K

3K

H

•2 I

filf
» K.

KIN
OK.

7S.

' 1 K

10 K
. (I K

,10 11

' JS.
i (IK.
ION
i "s
,10 K.

4S.
1 3S

8H.

'2 12
\2 2 I2

2 11

2 i.,

1 2

2 3

10 K . .
10 K. S

s K ..
10 N . .
ION ..
Iioll ..
iloN ..
I !t If . .
HO K. H

7S,..

«S...
10 H . .
10 H . .

SK.S
10 N . .
10 K. S
loK.H

7 K. S
10 N . .
10 N . .
10 N . .

7S .

10 K . .

OK ..

10 N . .

10 K. H

OX ..

3S...

10 H . .

H .

;«K ..

4H..
)i K
4 K .

ION .
(i S .

7K.S.

10 N.S.
loK.S.
, :t K , .

2S...

SK.S.

7S...

7 K.S.
10 s .. .
I 4S...
! 7S...
10 s...
10 K.S.

7K..S.

7S, . ,

M K.,s.
,10 S. ,
lloN
I0K..S.
10 N .
I s K.S.
'10 K.S.
i « N . .

7N.
! 10 K.S.
I liS.K.
iio N .
'ION ..
! 10 K.S.
! 7 K .
j I K.S.
! 10 K.S.

7 N , ,
10 N . .

7 K.S.

10 K.S.

I OS...
I 7 K.S.
I 7 K.S.

Wt'lltlllT.

l{(-iiiiirki>.

S.

.S.

2S...
3K .
4K.
7K

3 K .
IK.

4 K
7S...
SK.S,

!"K.S

H .; . .

7K

7S
loS

1 S
10 K
10 S

«K
10 S...

r>s...

10 N

7 K..S.

7S,.

SK..S.

7 K..S.
10 K..S.

s K ..
10 N . .
10 N

li K.S.

7 K.S.

.'iS. , ,

4S...

4K.

7S...

7 K.S.
10 N .
10 s. .
10 K.S.
10 K.S.

s K.S.
10 K.S.

« N . .

(i K.S.

in...
w...
11 .
n ..

H.

u

K...
(',. H.
C. It.

!!• ■'■

('. I!.

u

('. n.
('. n.

H...

n ..

H...
H

CM.
!H ..

in...
n.
c. n.

(". H.
C. II.

11...
II. .

C. H.
<

n.
It.

C. It.
c. It.

li. It.
i{.. .
('. I-..
('. It.
i>. II
i> II
It. c.

C. It.

('. It
r. It.
(". It.
l{....
<■ ...
o...

V ...

It.. .
It....
It....

IC ...

R.

H

It.

I)

It

H

It

It.

R

C. It.. (Mt.

('. It. C. It.
. C. It. ('. It.

<•. It. c. It.
.'('. It. (". It.
.|lt.. ..!(•. It.

.lit ...|C. It.

.'('. lt..k". It.
.]('. It. ('. It.
('. It. It

.'»'. H..IC. It.
.|ll....|fMl.
.CM. IR..

('. It. |C. It.

• Mt.lf It.. .

<'. It. ('. It.

<'. I!, c. n.

(". It. C. I!,
. C. It. ,('. II.

R It. c.

.<('. It. ('. IS.

R R.. .

('. It. ('. It.

.,('. It. H.
. IS. . . .

• iR....

It .
(Ml.
R....
C. ..

C...
(' ...

PllHnill>f clllPWCrH.

('. It.

<!. It.
('. H.
a H.
R....

(;. 11.
r. It.
(!. B.

(' . . .

Rain in |>a»»iii(r8lir.vi'rB.

SIlOWfl-H.

'riiimclcr ; liciivy nun.
'.Sjiou iiMand liiavv rain,

I'assiiij; sliiiwi'TK.
Itaiii.

Ili.i\y rail'
Italn.

.Iiavy sliiiwi i>.
.SliiiwiTH |ia.s!*in(f.

(Mt. R.

4 K ..!('...,
7S... K...,
7 K.S. It. It

IS ..(',,.,

JR..
. R....
C . . .

C ...
R. R

C...,

c...

R.
c...
C. H.

c...

C. R.

a ...

C. H.

Ili'avy nli(iWM'», I
llt'iivy Hliiiwt't'H (lasi^nK'.
Siiuweni.

.1 „

. I [ami li^litiiing

. jllfiivy rain; tliiiU'lir

386 L

LAIIRADOR HEMNSULA.

Metkokolooical Obsebvations in tlie

Pill

Date.

1805.

Maiiic'iiat;aii Itivfr
Li.kf

hi'low Watt'i'sliid

.\UK

Catlir at fiHit (if I'liitagt- route.
MiiMchaluKun Lnkf

.\ii\ Oiitanlcs l!i\cr

KiMT.St. l,ll\M'illli' at Illiilllll cif .\iix

( >iitar<l>'!< liivcr Si

Tin'iino'iictpr.

K. -'0 . .

40

M 21...

40

M 22 ...

an

M 23....

50

M 24....

•|0

.. 26....

45

M 211....

40

M 27....

34

.. 28....

45

" 2lt....

:w

M :¥)....

40

.. 31...

iVI

.t. 1....

51

" li

4S

GO
54
51
64

im

(15
<i5
(iO

02
06
liO

OO

3

a

BaromcttT.

I

41 I .■(2 2S Lit

43 I .'<7 2H 31

45 ' :v2 ::!s 7"

fitl 2H 7(1

55 ' |2H'«ti

45 ! L'H "Hi

40 I .-in '•_'!( ;c.

4s :n L".i i;s

45 . . ]^".l !.•.

40 34 jLIt iV.l

5« iVi LlfW

50 I 4« »)-2H

62 ! .. ..!2!I!I5
I.W 50

24
42

s;i
115
!I4
24
24
l".l I12
X>
2! I 72
;io 2H
20 05

2H25
28- (14
2K '.Mi

2H 75

211 <M)

2".i 24

Lit 02

2!l 35

L".l 10

'.".I 70

;«l 42
l2!rHfp

;W 43 30' 43

low. I APPENDIX VII.

Lnl>ra(lnr Peninsula, 1895 — Continued.

387 L

Win.l.

1

iri'ctidM. !

7

2

!

W.

W.

w. i

w.

w.

N.W.

x.w.

N.W.

W.

w.

W.

w.

W.

\v.
w.

W.

H.

H. '

aw.

H.W.

H.W.

8.VV.

S.

H.

8.

H.W.

H.W.

S.W.

H.W.

H.W. -

8.W.

1

Force.

7

2

1)

2

•>

3
•>

3

.1 (.>

2

:< 12
3 !» 1

3 2

CloiuN.

Wcntlier.

Reniarkx.

138
8K.
(IK.

10 N

H K.
KK.

(I K.
10 K
ION

7C.

7K
10 K.

' 7K.H...
4K.H. + C

. 10 X..

. . . 10 K.8.

. 7K.

. 10 X

.. (IK. 8.

. . 10 N . ,

, . 10 >■ . .

. 7 K

... 7K.S

.. 10 K .

. . (1 .s . .

.. (iC...

H...

H-. .

K..

K.H.

K.S.

N ..

K

N

C...

K

K..S.

N ..

fiK..S. 3 K.H.

C.
('. K
( '. H.

n.. .

C. II.

(\ n.

('. H.

K . .

u

('. II.

c. \i.
('. B.

R.

r. n
f. H

!•<•;

K. K
K..

<". H

IK..

I

. |R.. . . .Sllll\VI•^^^.

('. B. . I'lisHJiiK Hhowers.

( '. B.
. ( ". B.
. C ....
. R. I...

( •. B.

|{. K..

C. B.
, B .

f '. B. .

K.H..

C. B. . C. B.

iMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

A

O

^ .^.

V

m.

^
^

>^

f/.

4^^

^
^

1.0

I.I

|28

1^

12.2

It

£ tiS. 12.0

12

I

L25 11114 11.6

f*^

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>^^

V

op^

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

^

\

iV

<«^

fv

o^

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 143S0

(716)872-4503

>■*'

fff

^

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585
LABRADOR PENINSULA.

South-West Sheet.

D

Legend

f.'nmhn) - Si Inn an

Cdinhriiin

\y,JM.

Hiirrjt

iMitrfnIian ; inrlufUi>g lAindanitntal
finf'i.s,if,s tiiiil flreinill'e Series somelimtis
Willi liiriex/nnr.s

80*

7«»

«

Gl

\

9$^'

v~^

,^

fX,

v.^

•N,

X

N

\

\

-•::5

«=>x«.,

/■'

/

\

\,

\.

./

<tf

5*;'

y

I'.

••♦•n

\

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•^ /'

;

/

.x'

\

/'

rV

tUtic Jt,.

V

re*:

ggaaM.t»i«inaMt

GEOROEM. DAWSON, C.MG,LLO,rRS«c.,OIRECTOR

75"

74-

7r

V

^5y^.

V.

X

's

N

\

\

^

\

\

\

>

\

"N

^X

\.

^

^

V-

fe

iy

y

/

/"■

^

N

\c X,-

/Mi.

/

Dyke

"Os**

^Umc.

\

-'^m

"ii'trKSP

^^^*^j ^ —

1

I

.J.C--

1

/'

1

4^^

1

■

/ /NOTE— As

I Woucnniagan

/ ^ ^o'd lamp qui

.-^^^

586

LABRADOR PENINSULA,

South-East Sheet

m

■•,;,v,yi.;7>.yjjt

Legend

Cambro Silurian

Cnmbnun.

Huronian,

1(111 renlian ; inctuiliiiffFundaineiUiU
(•npixsrs anil CrenviUeSeries,somflimes
tt'U/i limestone. 1

CftnilngirdlSunun^iff (L'aiiaba

OKOnOEMOAWSON,CMO,LLO,rNS««,OINKCTOII

6S"

64"

68*

"^

rv

1 ooort pii S74 -"80 ""' 1^8* ' "''^ ^Ik8

Vs.

SB* FHPOI' PP- '•" " •

_ 1 r /'i«il>Hfe*'«

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E

/

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56'

SS

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in-

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RaraliiH^

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— ■

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I' -

■^^■^.iw^arU

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^J^^^^S^mS9»

\

■^^^^Mf^-

\

/b/*"^»^J^iSIW.*^2Jcoi^S*^ ^'

"*«r^«M*«-

54'

s«7

/

^a•'>l

HOT

-'««.f° n. He

Csn-Hr

81 'O

Pirl

.10»

d '» Tl

punV

Vft

co»»'

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rarf

?t)bL

r„ u»'-'

P"^"...Ci.'r»'"»"

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*^r

dm

^

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r

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51-

._.^' :

Hif Y

Mas.tive ifrnnilw rorks

Anor

iwurthonilps

^

JtUnedtone

/

Glaeuil .s/ricp

1128'

Heiyhl. ftliove .icn

('ompilet^ /)!/ D /. I.' h'afnn, f,' {•,'.
Drawn for photo- litiinpnpluf hi/ C O. Senecal, ,C K.

CoMtIi

(I)
(»)

by A. I

survey I
Manicu
are fron
(i84»).

geology of

^PerUnd Marfen Rfv

1 *"• -e* Repoi

78*

77*

7e«

7S»

^7:

// *// CO. Seneca/,. C.K

Sources of Information.
Ggoqraphical.

Coast line fruin various Admiralty Charts excepting :

(i) East coast of Hudson Bay between Portland Promontory and Great Whsle River, from map by Dr. R. Bell, 1877-78.

(3) Coast and islands of James Kay from charts of Capts, Taylor and Bishop, of the H. B. Co's vessels, with corrections
by A. P. I/)w, 1887.

Rivers of the southern watershed chiefly from surveys uf the Department of Crown Lands, Quebec. Nottaway River from
survey by R. Bell, 1895, Rupert, East Main, Koksoak, Hamilton, Romaine and portions of the Big, Great Whale, Clearwater,
Manicuagan and North-west rivers, from surveys by A. P. Low and D. I. V. Eaton. Rivers and lakes shown in dotted lines
are from sketch-maps of H. B. Co. The central interior from a map made by John Spencer and John Beads at Nichicun
(184a). The routes between the East Main and Nottaway rivers from a map compiled by Jas. Clouston (1824X

LA]

wmmmmm

.jf

I'll'l'l'

.If

hti' I.'

74"

78°

Sofuth.We»t Slieet

MAT

— of —
LABRADOR PENINSULA

The gcolod
(I) la|
(3) Obi

(p.i9. I. ).l
(3) Obf

Natural Seale: m^t^g
ScaU; SSmilttuotfe- inehi

Sources of Information.
Geological.

Thr geological indications include :

( i) Facts obtained during A . P. Ix)w's expeditions of iBga, '93, '94, '95 and '96.

(2) Observations contained in previous reports of the Geological Survey as enumei
(p, 19, I..), including work by J. Richardson, W. McOuat, R. Bell and F. D. Adams.

(3) Observations of A. S Packard on the'coast between Belle Isle and Nain.

^^

IRCE8 OF Information.
Geoloqical.

Accfnrqianying Heporl hyA.P.Low, B.Ap.Sc, Part L, VoLVlll, (New Series)

585

wdilions of 1891, '93, '94, '95 and '96.

ports of the Geological Survey as enumeimted in the accompanyiDg report

kV. McOuat, R. Bell and F. D. Adams.

coast between Belle Isle and Nain.

Anof

/M

/

II2»'

Anorlfin/iilff

liiniraloni

(Uarwl atriir

Height nboy .trrr

51<

50'

f

68'

67 «

Coni/jiM hi/ D /. V En/oii. CE
Draion fnr photo-litfiofjidp/ii/ t)if C OSenr.cnf CE

CoMI

(
(

by A
1
surv<
Mani
are fi
{«84a

67*

66<

65«

64'

68"

CE.

'it/ f?// C O.Smr.mf CJ:

Sources of Information
Geoqraphical

Cout line from varioui Admiralty Charts excepting :

(i) East coast of Hudson Bay between Portland Promontory and Great Whale River, from map by Dr. R, Bell, 1877-78.

(9) C3ast and islands of James Bay from charts of Capts. Taylor and Bishop, of the H. B. Co'^ vessels, with corrections
by A. P. Low, 1B87.

Rivers of the southern watershed chiefly from surveys of the Department of Crown l>inds, Quebec. Notlaway River from
surrey by R. Bell, 1895, Rnpert, East Main, Koksoak, Hamilton, Romaine and portions of the Big, dreat Whale, Clearwater,
Mantcuagan and North-west rivers, fron? surveys by A. P. Ix>w and D. I. V. Eaton. Rivers and lakes shown in dotted hnes
are from sketch-maps of H. B. Co. I'he central interior from a map made by John Spencer and John Beads at Nichicun
(184a). The 'outes between the East Main and Noltaway rivers from a map compiled by Jas. Clou:ton (1824).

s o s IB e t

V

'ik

A

'M.

•^^

K5!F*^J

ttMnfl-

^

sr

a

6S"

^

G

'■■^i'i,

iTI.

iM.

XT J/

62*

61"

South Easi Sheet

MAIP

— of —
LABRADOR PENINSULA

The Kcoll
(i> H
W<(

<PI9. 1-1
(3)0|

ja ts tf IS

Natural Scale: m^jm
Sca/e : SSniilet U one ineh'.

St'

■

M

P«fe

'"V. /

^]

/

/

1

jk.i

f

7

IJa^^

60°

59"

Sources of Information
Geological

bl "Ricul iudirntions include :

ll'acts olnained during A. P. Low's expeditions of 189a, '93, '94, 'qs and '96.

|Oliservationr iroiitained in previous reportu of the Geological Survey as enuni<

>. including work by J. Kichardson, W. McOuat, R. Hell and K. D. Adams.
lOhservAtiuni 01' A. S Packard on the cout between Belle Isle and Nain.

ource8 of inkormation
Qeoloqical

Jrruntfmnyuuf Import hy A.l'.low, B.Ap.Sc, PaH L, Vol.VJfl.'MM 'Surijus)

586

xpcditions of 1891, '93, '94, '95 and '96.

report!! of the Geological Survey as enumerated in the accompanying report

W. McOuM, R. Kell and K. D. Adunis.
e coaiit between Belle Isle and Nain .

587
LABRADOR PENINSULA.

t^orth-West Sheet,

mmmmsmaamfmBm

Legend

" ""■

D

f.'amhro Silttriaii

C

—

Cniiihriiin

B

/lumniwi.

/.nil reii lull) ;ini hiiliii>jl''imtlmiieulal
(Ini'isup.i fiiiilCrpm'ille.i'fnf.i./ioniplinii s
t*-i/li litnr.slDiir.s

83"

60'

59"

58"

^

82"

<5^/

wmm&mmmmmimmmmfmsmmmmm

wmmmmmmmmsmmmm

wmmmmmmmmmmmmm

6(

GEO

82"

81°

80"

78"

77"

SjitO,

'^am

K3

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0'

A.

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r- ^'>1t,„rt ;.,., -'«in .ilonj, ,,^^,^^

■'-"li "■unci,,.,...":''' •••■''

mmmmmmmBmsaif^KmmsmmmKmmmfmmBmmm

fmmmmmmmm

GEORGE HDAWSON,C.Ma,UO,fRS*c^0IRECTOR
I89«

77"

76*

75"

74'

^ee Annual Rg

Ion,

0 !>Oir

EPOesot rocks isc^''"

*rtvance Bay '"PPO^'O

72«

70"

60'

%6'

61"

60"

59"

Ft Chimf^^

588
LABRADOR PENINSULA.

^orth-East Sh

(•ft

Legend

Camhm Silurian

Cdiiihrtun

Jltironittn.

Utiirftitiitn; including hiinddineiUcd
G/ifts.ip.s mill OremitleSfrici/itiiitelitiiCs
Willi Jime.stoiiP.s.

0

6i'iiliiijiralSuntiiu»f (L'aivaba

OlOnoi M OAWSON, C MO LL O.FRS •{.DIRECTOR

IfllUi

61°

eo»

59'

P»i.|i!

58"

\'

A

T

X'

isn

I.

56*

5S"

54«

53*

f

I

c

«0"

w

58°

JR

A

N

/

1129'

Ma.isivi' t/riiiiitir rDrka

I'UKir/Jiosi/r.i

Airhf.stiini'

(lltU'iiil .Sfritr

Hdfilil iilinyi! xca

w

55'

81°

80"

79"

Coiitjji/t'd hi/ />/.!' Kdloii. C /','.
Drawn for photo- litlioi/mp/iii hii CO.SpucCuf, C /;'

Soui

Coiut line rroni varioat Admirf.ity Chwta excnpling
(t ) ICiM coMt of Hudson Hay between Portlan
(a) CoiM an'l islands of James Bay from chart
by t., P. Low, 18S7.

Rivers of the southern watershed chiefly frcm
survey by R. Bell, 1895, Rupert, East Main, Kbkso
Manicuafan and North-west rivers, from surveys b
are from sketch-map* of H. B. Co. The central
(184a). The routes between the Eait Main and

'"■ '^^ ^-"oi,:„;

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■» \

Y

•5<M<^,

^Lang^^ 1^'

Moil ft /

\< 1

■> -^L

keR.

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v..

«-*.

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'v

"P. often

N

--— ^.

JKnt /.t ,

^A

■ i^ ^^'''^^WS^f^^^^

L*^3"'

\

«ft\.

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^>V^S*'

I

/

r^

^^ifp-^

y'?

*-'

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U

^

^-xx:

G

1^^^^^'^' r / Ti^'^ few.

/ ^^^^^wtesr~~-~-J-— ^

/ * '''^i^^

*.

1 ^^iii3|-~i ^yi^w '^a4'<

A

\

V

78"

77«

76'

75"

74«

73*"

Sources of Information.
Geographical.

Irf.ity Chaita excnpling :

I Bay between Portlaiid Promontory and Great Whale River, from map by Dr. R. Bell, i877.7it.

fames Bay from charts of Capts. Taylor and Bishop, of the H. B. Co's vessels, with corrections

atcrshad chiefly from surveys of the Depawment of Crown L«nds, Queliec. Nollaway River froiti
lert, East Main, Kokso.^, Hamilton, Romaine and portions ofti.^ Big, Great Whale, Clearwaier,
I rivers, from surveys by A. H. Low and O. I . V . Eaton. Riven and lakes shown !ii dotted lines
B. Co. The central interior from a map made by John Spencer and John Heads at Nichicun
the East Main and Nottaw^y rivers from a map compiled by Jas. Clouston (iSs^X

North West SKeet.

MAF

— of —
LABRADOR PENINSULA.

Natural Scale: u^m.

Scale : l?4 ntiiet to one inehi

II

llic geoltjgical inJ
(i) Tacts nblJ
(a) 0!>«erv.iii|

(p. ig, L ). tnclim
(3) Observaiil

.irmnifmiiwuj Hi-jwft hy A./'.Lmr, H.Ap.Sc, Part L, Vol. VIII, (,Veu' Sen rs)

Sources of Information.
Geological.

587

lic.itionn ii<clii(le ;

lintel during A. P. Low's expeditions of 1891, '93, '94, '95 and 96.

Iri> I'oninined in previous reports of the Geological Survey as enumerated in the accompanying report

Inx work by J. k ichardson, W. McOuat, R. Hell and F. D. Adam».

Ins iif A. S Packard on ibe^coest between Belle Isle and Nain.

UMi

My

/

iujv

.Vn.i.iivf iffttiiifir rnrk.i

,uiitr//iH.sitrx

l,unr.^liiiif

(lltwuil .ifr/ff

//rif//i/ iiliovf sm

58"

57*

56»

55'

/

f

/

/

\

A
^ V

! V,

. y-

^t

1\ ^

'i/A nperZ

Vx

^

68"

67°

C'onyuled 6y D I. V Kut.on. (' E
D.'ftivn /or photo litl)n(frap/iii hif CO. Seneca/. .CA'

Coast li
(I)
(»)

liy A. I
Riv
survey I
Manicu
are fron
(i84»)-

67°

65"

64°

68"

62"

I hif 6.0.ScnrA:uf..C.IC.

Sources of Information
Geographical

Coast line from various Admiralty Charts excepting :

(i) Kast coast of Hudson Bay between Portland Promontory and Great Wnale Kiver, from map by Dr. R. Hell, i8;7-78.

(a) Coast and islands of James Hay from charts of Capts. Taylor and Bishop, of the H. B. Cos vessels, witn corrections
by A. P. Low, 1887.

Rivers of the southern watershed chiefly from surveys of the Department of Crown Lands, Quebec. Notlaway River from
survey by R . Hell, 1895, Rupert, Kast Main, Koksoalt, Hamilton, Romaine and [xirtions of the Hij;, (jreat \\'liale, Cleatwati^r,
Manicuagan and North-west rivers, from surveys by A. P. Low and D. I. V. Katon. Rivers and lakes shown in doitirl line*
are from sketch-maps of H. B. Co. The central interior from a map made by John Spencer and John Ueuiis at Niihicun
(1843). The routes between the East Main and Nottaway rivers from a map compiletl by Jas. Clouston (1824).

La<liU.Lil||l|i..illi|Wiai[luLu!iii

- iW^gik^.x.imim^i'-^j^m^'i-mi.jfiJi'Mii

IJKIO*

0

ItoU

IttI*.

iio***4i

I.!

f -

/

X

JB^I-

62"

61°

60"

ifortK East Sheet

MAIP

— of —
LABRADOR PENINSULA

(.) I ...
<p. n. ; J.

(,) ()!v

m e u s}

Natural Scale: m^^tj

Scale: SSuiiier te one ine/i'.

I.I II ■ jCTSi III t:z.

€

V

>«*»

<

• /

59"

58°

^^^^

SouRcea of

Information

Geoiooical

.>;iiat imlicalions incluil

e ;

;iit-i ol»taine<i tluring A

. P. Low

s oxpeilitionv of i

893, '931 '9H,

'95 and '06.

>:i-frvati')ns rfmtainetl

in previui" reports of the

(ieo!ogi)al

Survey as

eiiuiiierat

I, iticUiflinj: umiV V-s !

Kichard

sun, W. McOuat,

K. l)«IUn.

1 K. I). Ad.1

im>.

1' M-riiitions ol A . S P;

:iLkard cfl

ihe^coitsi l)fttween Belle Isle i

ii'd Nain.

ifflfta"'

ffrS

b-

87"

5«-

53'

5a»

iV

58"

55"

^Irmiii/mimiitj /{f/,ofl hy A.I'.Lmw li.ApSr., Pari /-, Vol .VIH/Xcn- ■Scries,)

iRCEa OF Information
Geolooical

588

eilitiom- of iBga, '93, '94, '95 and '9^.

wrls of iho (leologii al Survey as eiiuiiierated in ihc nccoinpaiiyinij rr|i.irl

W McOuat, K. Hell ami K. I). Aitam>.

oasi between belle Islt ac'd Nain.