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' > . 1 * » ' V ♦ \ siM:^tM ¥• THRJt.^ T R A V E L S :<«' THROUGHOUT THE INTERIOR PARTS OF NORTH-AMERICA, :FOR MORE THEN FIVE THOUSAND MILES, CONTAINING AN ACCOUNT OF THE GREAT LAKES, AND ALL THE LAKES, ISLANDS, AND RIVERS, CATARACTS, MOUNTAINS, MINERALS, SOIL AND VE- GETAPLE PRODUCTIONS OF THE NORTH-WEST REGIONS OF THAT VAST CONTINENT ; WITH A rDESCRTPTlON ot th* BIRDS, BEASTS, REPTILES, IN- SECTS, AND FISHES PECULIAR TO THE COUNTRY. TOGETHER WITH A CONCISE History o» t«e genius, manners, and customs of the indians INHABITING THE LANDS THAT LIE ADJACENT TO THE HEADS AND TO THE WESTWARD OF THE GREAT RIVER MISSISSIPPI i AMD AN APPENDIX, DESCRIBING THE UNCULTIVATED PARTS OF AMERICA^ THAT ARE THE MOST PROPER FOR FORMING SETTLEMENTS. ■M '■■■ 7 I ■!■ ■ ■■ ■■■■III ■■ ■ I —"7 ■ T ■ ' ,t' , " . 1 ■■ ■■■ M ■ I f I ..Ml^ III! ■, ILMl By Captain JONx\THAN CARVER, OF TH b PROVINCIAL TROOPS IN AMZPICA. t m PRINTED BY JOHN RUSSELL, for CAVID W^SV NO. 56, CORNHILL, BCSl'ON. ' " J797- >Sfc.: %^ \ /VgsTQS SEP 1 0 1921 • s • ■■.*s=*': JOSEPH BANKS, Esq^ • -t ' PRESIDENT OF THE ROTAL SOCIjETT. SI R, , Jf^HEN the public are informed that I have lon^ had the honor of your acquaintance-^fhat my deftgn in pub" lifbing the following 'work has received your fanSiion — that the compofttion of it has flood the ted of your judgment — end that it is by your permtj[fton, a name^fo defervedly eminent in the literary world is perfixed to it, I need not be appreherfive ofitsfuccefs ; as your patronage will un^ quefiionably give them^ affurance of its merit. For this public teflimony of your favor, in which J pride myfelfy accept. Sir, my mofl grateful aaknowledgments ; 4. and believe me to be, with great refpeEl, Tour obedient, bumble Servant, ' J, CARVER, I'i ^Al h^ :"^ ?c gn a&ftrefe to ttje lg)»Wc. THE favorable reception this work has met with, - claims the Author*s mod grateful acknowled^i- mcnts. A large edition having run off in a few months, and the fale appearing to be flili unabated, a new impreffion is become neceflary. On this oc- cafion was he to conceal his feelings and pafs over in filence, a diftinftion fo beneficial and flattering, he would jiiftly .incur the imputation of ingratitude. That he mi^ht not do this, he takes the opportunity, which now prefents itfelf, of conveying to the Pub- lic (though in terms inadequate to the warm emotions of hl« heart) the fenfe he entertains of their favor ; and thus tranfmits to them his thanks. In this new edition, care has been taken to re£li- fy thofe errors which havie unavoidably proceeded from the iiurry nearly about the time the Indian, from former expe- riments, was able to guefs at ? It certainly does not ; nor will the liberal and ingenuous doubt the truth of a ftory fo well authenticated, becaulc the circum- itances appear extraordinary in a coiintry where the i"ubje£l of it is fcarcely known., . Thefe explanations the author hopes will fufRce to convince his readers, that he has not, as travellers •are fometimes fuppofcd to do, amufed theni with im- probable tales, or wifticd to acquire importance by leaking his adventures favor of the marvellous* ■^1 ■r Tiv .. VV) CONTENTS. Introduction, The Author Jets out from Bojloti on his travels^ Dcfiription of fort Mtchilimachwac, — fort La Bay, . the Green Bay, /ake Michigan, , .. Arrives at the toaun of the Wimiebngoes^ Excurfion of the Wintnbagoes towartls the Spanifh fettlenutits^ ' - Defcription of the IVinnebago lahc. It fiance of refolution of an Indian -wotnany Defcription of the Fox River, Rtmarkahle Jlory of a Rattle Snake, The great toiun of the Saukies, - - Upper town '^ the Otiagaumies, - Defcription of the Ouifconfin River, Lo^uer toivn of the Oitagautnies, or, Des Chiens, An attack byfome Indian plunderers, Defcription^ the Mifjifpppi from the mouth of the Ouifconfm to lake Pepin, ■> «• Jake Pepin, - - - - Remarkable ruins of an tincitnt Fortificatiofi, The River Bands of the Naudoivejfie Indians, Adventure luith a party of thefe, and fome of the Chipeioays, - , - defcription of a remarkable Cave, Uuconmion behaviour of the Prinze of the Winncba-' ^^esatthefallsqfSt.Anihof:y,\ - ^ - Defcription cf the Falls, - - • Extent of the Author^ s Travels, • ' - , Defcription of the river Si, Pierre, Les Prairies Seu. ces 5 «3 14 ib, 19 21 2Z 24 25 26 .27 2hi 3» lb. 3^ 33 34 35: 37 39' 4^ 42 43 45 ■ 1 viii CONTENTS. Sources of the four great riven of Ncrti'jfwertcap 46 Refle^Iitn^ on their fljpniiy, - - j^. The I^audoivcffies of the plains ^ with whom the Au' thor wintered in the year 1 766, - - 47 The author returns to, the mouth of the river St. Pierrff - - . - 48 Accoi^nt of a violent thunder florm^ - " 5^ Speech tnade by the author in a council held by the Naudowcffies at the great cave, - - 51 Advi-n/ure with a party of Indians near lake Pepin , 56 Dtfcripiion of the country adjacent to the river St. Pierre, - - - . {^p Account of different Clays found »ear the Marble ^ River, - - - - - (5o Defcription of the Chipenvay River, - ib. Extraordinary effects of a Hurricane, - • 61 Ihe author arrived at the Grand Portage on the North'We/l borders of Like Superior, - - 63 Account of the lakes lying further to the North-ive/} : lake Bourbon, lake Winnepeck, lake Du Bois% lake la Pluye, Red lake, isfc. - - - ib. Account of a nation of Indians fupp fed to have been tributary to the Mexican Kings, y - - 69 . ■- • thejhining Mountains, , » ' - ib. A fingular predi£iion ^ the chief priefl of the Killif iinoes verified, r, - -» ■ % Defcription tf lake Superior, ' - Story of the two Chipeways landing on the Ifiand of Maurcpas, , - - - - Account of great quantities of Copper Ore, Defciiptionof the Falls 6f St. Marie, — ■— — — Lake Huron, - - Saganaum and Thunder Bays, Extraordinary phenomenon in theflraits of Michilli- mackinac, - " " Defcription of lake St. Claire, - - 'the river, town^ and fort of Detroit, RmarkM rain at Detmt^ 72 77 7?' 81 82 83 fi4 ib. 87 88 ib. 1.2 — — ^ ''lij Corn Oft) An a JQefi "^ ^hei Ofi Pea The The Thi Attach 'eft : ( lake C O N T E. N T S. in Attach of fori Detroit by PontiaCf • • 89 Defcription of iake Eritt -- -' - - 96 .. -^--the river and falls ofWtagara^ - 98 ». /al/ Ontario dtid lake Oniaday - i*'. -/fl-l^ Champlain, and lake George^ - lOo Account of a trail of land granted to Sir Ferdinando Gorges, and captain John Mnfon, - -^ ih Tk author^ s motives for undertaking his travels, 103 CHAPTER i. ^Jbe origin of the Indianrt - i' ^'^^5 Sentiments of varitus writers on this pointy - 106 Monfteur Charlevoix^ - - 1 1 2 ■ Jatnes Adary efq, - - - II7 •'--——'^'=^^'^'-'-theauihorqfthisivorky - - Til Corroboration of th» latter by Doff or Robertfon, - 125 chapter: It Of the perfonsy drefsy t^c, of the Indians y - ^^7 An account ofthofe nuho have written on this fubjeHy ; ' 188 yrheir manner of fcalpingy - - -/ ib. The manner in which they retreat , and carry off their frijhnersy - - - i \A remarkable infiance of heroifm in a Female prifoner, - - - ^ - 191 Treatment of their prifoners, . - - 192 The origin of their fetUngJlavesy - - 19^ «*■*-■ CHAPTER X. Of their manner of making peace , &c. -- 20 1 [Account of an engagement between the Iroquoil ' and the Ottagaumies and Sauk es - ' -2.02. Manner in which they conduct a treaty of peace ^ 2)05 Defcription of the pipe ofpeace, - - ' 206 rkelts of wampum y - 207 CHAPTER XI. Of their games y - The game of the hall, — — — , — bowl or plfltt&ry 2o3 ib, CHAPTER ^ ''\ mf Ota CONTENTS. C H AFTER XII. Of thetr marriage ceremonies^ - - 2io The manner in luhich the tribes near Canada celebrate their marriages^ - - an The form of marriage among theNaudoiveffiesy 213 Their manner of carrying on an Intrigue y - 216 Of the Indian names ^ - - - ib* C H A P T E R XIII. Qf their religion^ Their ideas of a fupremg beings -future Jlate^ ^f*' »■ ■ ■' — ' 2l8 219 220 ib. Of their priefl's^ The fentiments of others on the religious principles , of the Indians oppofed, - .- 22 1 CHAPTER XIV. Of their difeafe, i'^c, - - - ' 223 The complaints to -which they are chiefly fuhjeSi^ ib. The manner in which they conflrudi their/weating Stoves^ - - ., - 224 The methods in which they treat iheif dif^fes^ 225 An extraordinary inflance of the judgment of an In* dian /women 9 ifi 0 defptrate caf* - ^27 C H A P T E R XV. .s The manner in which they treat their dead, - 228 ^fpecimen of their funeral ha^'rangues, - - 230 ^heir method of burying thei- dead, - - ib. Aftngular inflame of parental ajfe&ion in a Nau- dowejlfie weman, - - - 231 C H A P T E R, XVI. jd concife charaSler of the Indians, - » 234 . Their CONTENTS. ^m * 2XO add - 211 ^ffiesy 213 ) 216 / ib. 2l8 f" 219 . 220 _ ib. inciples 22£ ; 223 uhje^, ib, weating 224 eafes, 225 an Iri' ?27 - 228 - 230 ib. Nau* 231 234 Their ndr pif/onai ^nd mental ^aiifications, - 234 ^Thiir public charaSter as members of a CMtmunity, 235 C H A P T E R XVU. Of their Language^ Hieroglyphics t tstc* Of the Chipeivay tfi^ue, - - - JUefcriptive Specimen of their Hieroglyphics, ^c. Voeahulury of the Chipeivay language, • - Naudoweffie language, CHAPTER XVIII. 237^ .238 239 ib. 249 :'^ y4^fthe Meafis, Birds, Ftjbes, Repiilet, and JnfeEls, which are found in the interior parts of North' America, - • \ - • *54 S E A S T S. fthe Tiger, JBear, - ^ « - /^, TTjcTVolf Fox, Dogs, Cat of the mountain, 256 The Buffalo, Deer, £lk, - t ^ 256 The Moofe, Qarraboo, » , • » - 25? ne Carcajou, iSkuni, - - - - 259 T'he Porci^ne, - - - - - 260 The Wood-chucks Racoon, Marten, MiiJquqPj,26i Squirrels, Beaver, - - •. - 262 ]The Otter, Mink, - - - - 266 B 1 R D S. y^t 57)^ -E^ic. iSTri^/ Hanvk, Whipperivill, - »i. 1 1 The Fijh Hawk, Oivl. Crane, - - 269 \ Ducks. Teal. Lo9n. Partridge, - - 270 The Wood Pigeon, Woodpecker, Blue Jay, Wakon Bird. - - ' m m 271 ^ The Black Bird. RedBird. Whetfaw^ - .:a72 The King Bird, Humming Bird, -« - - 27 j' A FISHSS XIV C 0*N T E N T S. f I S.H E. Sv> •i, ., i ^ 3 J* 7 he Sturgeon, «. T/&f Caijijh. Carp, Chub, 274 S E R i» E N ^ S, 'The Rattle Snake, - ;^ ^ - 275: ^/6^ Long Black Snake, ^irip^ or Garter .Snake. It^ater Snak.'. Hijfmg Snake. Green Snake, . 279 IThe Thorn-tail bnake. Specked Snake, Kwg Snake. "^ tiuo'headed Snake, 'Tortotfe or land Turtle, - ih, L I *Z A R D S. T/'ie Swift Lizcfrd. Slow Lizard. Tree Tocfi, 280 . INSECTS, Thf Silk Worm. Tobacco Worm* Bee, Lights ning Bug or Fire Fly, ^ ' - •• 2^82 Th^ Water Bug, Horned Bu^, Locufi^ " ' 28^3 CHAPTER XIX. ' 0/thfi Trges^ Shrubs, Roots, Herbs, Flowers, ^c, 284 TREES.' The Oak, -' - ' - ,. - , ib. The Pine Tree. Maple.. Apj^ - - 285 ^4^he Heihkck Tree. %fs or Whitt Wood. Wick* pkk or Suchwick, Button Woo^, » - 285 *N U T TREES; The Butter or Oil Nut, Biich Nuty '» - 287 The Pecan Nut, * Hichry, - « - 288 FRUIT % G O N T EN T S. jr? F R tr I "T T RE E S. T^e Vine, - - - - - - /^. T^^ Mulbery Tree. Crab A[^pk Tree. Plum Tree. ChepryTf^e. iiiveet Gum Tree, - 289 'gi. H R U B S. The IVillonv. Shin lVo.^i. Su/afras, - ' 290 The Prickly ^Jb. Moofe^^ooil. Spoon JVoccI, Elder i - - ,- - - - 291 The Shrub pak. Witch Hazle. Myrtle Wax Tree. Winter Greeny - - - - 292 The Fever Bujh, Crtutberry Bvjh, Chcai Berry ^ 293 ROOTS and PLANT S. Spikenard. Sarfaparilla. Ginfang^ - - 294 Gold Thread. Solomon* s Seal. Devil's Bit. Blood Hoof, - - - - - - 79^ KERB S. Satuch. Raiile Snake Plantain i - - 297' Poor Robbings Plantain. Toad Plantain. Roch Liverwort. Gar git or Shle. &kt,'nk Cottage or Poke. Wake Robin. - - - ib. Wild Indigo. Cat Mint, - -. - 299 FLOWERS, FARINACEOUS and LEGUMINOUS R O O T S, ^^. I Maixe or Indian Corn. Wild Rie», - - 300 Beans. T.he Squajh, - - ■ . . - 302 APPEN- i>^' i ivi CONTENTS. APPENDIX. T^e probability of the interior parts of, North^jime' rica becoming commercial colonies i - - 3&J. ^he means by ivhichthis might be effeSfedy - 304^ ^raEls sf land pointed outyon tvhicb colonies may be e/tablifjed nmth the greaieji advauUige^ - 306' Dtjfertation on the difcovery of a North-%ueJ} pajfage^ 3,.! o ^he moji certain luay of atta^ig iff - * - ib,- Piatt pr^pofedhy Richard WhU'Worth^ ^*for mai" ingan attempt fritn a quarter Uihtrtif'Ji^fAUredf 3.1 % ^f reafmifitj heifigjp^/lfMed^ »" '^^if - H*. 4r- m '■« i*.".; ' INTRCK '■>%: INTRODUCTION. N. O fooner was the late war M'ith , France concluded, and peace eftabliihed by the treaty of Verfailles in theyear 170I, than I began to confi- der (having rendered my country fome fcrvices dur- ing the war) How I might continue ftill ferviceable,. and contribute, as much as lay in my power, to make that vait acquifition of territory, gained by Creal- Britjfin in North- America, advantageous to it. It appeared tome indifpenfably needful, that govern- ment fhould be acquainted, in the firft place, with, the true ftate of the dominions rhev were new be- come pofl'dled of. To this purpofe, I determined,, as the next proof of my zeal, to explore the moft un- known parts of them, and to fpare no trouble or ex- pence in acquiring a knowledge that promifed -to be io ufeful to my countrymen. I knew that many ob- ftru£^ions would arife to my fcheme from the want of good Maps and Charts i for the French, whilft. they retained their power in North-America, had taken every artful method to keep ail other nations, particularly the Englifh, in ignorance of the concerns of the interior parts of it : and to accomplifli this defign with the greater certainty, they had pnbliihed inaccurate Maps and falfe accounts ; calling the dif- ferent nations of tli& Indians by nicknames they had given them, and not by thofe really appertaining to 3iem. "Whether the intention of the French in do- ing this, was to prevent thefe nations from being dif- covered and traded with, or to conceal their difcourfe, when they talked to each other of the Indian con- cerns, in th^ir prefence, I will not determine 5 but vhatfocver was th^ caufe from which it afroe, it tended to miileacL A 2 As INTRODUCTION. r I >\i % As a proof that the Englifh had been greatly de- ceived by thefe accounts, and' that their knowltdgc relative to Canada had ufually been very confined } — before the conqueft of Crown-Point in 1759, it liad been cfteemed an impregnable fortrefs ; but no fooner was it taicen, than we were convinced that it had acquired its grcateft fecurity from falfe reports, given out by its pofl'tflbrsi «wnd might have been bat-* tered down with a few four pounders. Even its fitu- ation, which was reprefented to be fo very advantage- ous, was found to o\^'e its advantages ^'to the fame fource. It pannot be denied but that fome Maps of thefe countries have been publiibed by the $'rench with an appearance of accuracy } but thefe are of fo fmall af Hze and drawn on fo minute a fcale, that they are nearly inexplicable; The four^bs of the Miffifippi, I can aflert from my own experience, are greatly mifplaced ; for when I had explored them, and compared their fituation with the French Charts, I found them very erroneoufly reprefented, and am fatisfied that thefe were only co|)ied from the rude fketches of the Indians. Even fo lately as their evacuation of Canada, they continued their fchcmes to deceive j leaving no trac- es by which any knowledge might accrue to their conquerors ; f6r although they were well acquainted with all tlie Lakes, particularly with Lake Superior, having conftantly a veffel of confiderable burden thereon, yet their plans ctf them are very incorrect. I difcovered many errors in .he defcriptions given therein of its iilands and bays, during> a progrefs of eleven hundred miles thac I coailed it in canoes. They like^ife, on giving up the poffeffion of them, took care to leave the places they had occupied,' in the fame tincultrvated fiate they had found them ; at the fame time ddtrbying all their naval force. I ob- icrVed myfclf part of the huljc of a very large vfeffel, Inirnt to the water's edge, juft at the opening from the Strait!^ of §t, Marie iiitg the L^e.^ T4ke& 'iy n INTRODUCTION. Thefe cU^cuUiei, however were not fufficient to deter me from the undertaking, and I made prepara- tions for fetting out. Wha I chiefly had in view, after gaining a knowledgjs of the manners, cuCtoms, languages, k^ and- natural produ^ion$ 9f the di^- rent nation* that inhabit the back of the Mifli Cppi, was to afcertain the breadth of that vail continent, which extenciRrom the Atlantic to the PacificOcean, in its broadeft part between 43 and 46 degrees north- ern latitude* Had I been able to accomplifti this, I intended to^i^ve propofed to government to eilabllfh a poft in fomcof thofe parts about the Straits of An- whi^h» haying been firft diicovered. by Sir nian< Francis Drake, of courfe belong to the Englifh. This I am convinced would greatly facilitate the dif- covery of a Northweft paifage, or a cominunlcation between Hudfon*s bay and the Pacific Ocean. An event fo defiral?le, and "Vfhjch has been fo often fought for, but without fucc«fs. Befides this impor- tant end* a fettlement on that extremity of America would anlwpr many good purppfes, a.nd repay every expence tlie eilabli(hment of it might occalion. For it would not only difclofe new fources of trade, and promote «iany ufeful difcoveries, but would open a; paflage forconveying intelligence to China^ and the £ngH(h fettlements in the Bail Indies, with greater expedition than a tedious voyage by the Cape of Good Hope, or the Straits of Magellan will allow of.. How far the advantages arifing from fuch an enter- prize, may extend, can only be afcertained by the fa>r vorabie concurrence of future events. But that the completion of the fchemcj I have had the honor of firft planning and attempting, \^j|l fomc time or other be e^£ted, I make no doubt. From tlie unhappy divifions that at prefent fubfiftbetween GreatrBritaia and America, it will probably be fome years before the attempt is repeated } but. whenever it is, and the execution ol it «iarried en widi propriety, thpfe wha I ace Nr v SI ; I U flUTRODUCTIOK. art fo fortunate as to fucceedi will reap, cxcluAVe of the national advantages that mufl enfue, emoluments beyond their moft fangiiiiie expedtations. And whilft their fpirits are elated by- their fuccefs, perhaps they may beftoW ibme commendations and hlefllngs on the perfon who firil. pointed out to them the way. Thefe, though but a (hadowy recompence for all my toil, I fliall receive ^vith pleafure* ^ To what power or authority this new world will become dependent,, after it has arifen from its pre- fent uncuhivated ilate, time alone can difcover. fiut as the feat of empire from time immemorial has been gradually progreflive towards the weft, there is no doubt but that at fome future period, mighty king- doms will emerge from thefe wildernefles, ancl ftatc- ly palaces and folemn temples, with guilded fpires reaching the (kies, fupplant the Indian huts, whofe only decorations are the barbarous trophies of their vanquiihed enemies. As fome of the preceding paflages have already informed the reader that the plan I' had laid down for penetrating to the Pacific Ocean, proved abor*. tive, it is neceflary to^dd^ that this proceeded not from its imprafticability (for the further I went the more convinced I was ihat it could certainly be ac- compliftied)' but from unforefeen difappointments* However, I proceeded fd iis^ that I was able to make fuch difcovcries as will be ufeful in any future zu tempt, and prove a good foundation for fome more fortunate fucceffbr to build upon* Thefe I Ihall now lay before the public in the following pages ^ and am fatisfied that the greateft part of them have never T3een publiflied by anv perfon that has hitherto treat- ed oi the interior nations of the Indians i particular* ly, the account I give of the NaudoweiFies, and the fituation of the heads of the four great rivers that take their rife within a few leagues of each other, nearly about the center of this great (continent, vi^ Th«. .«*! INTRODt/CTION. T^e river Bourbon^ which empties itfcif into Hud- fon's bay i the waters of Saint Lawrence j the Mif- fifippii and the river Oreian, or the river of the weft, that faUs into the Pacific Ocean, at the Str^itd> of Annian; The impediments that occaCcned my retorning, before I had accompliflied my purpofes, were thefc. Gn my arrival at Michillimackinac, the rcmotell iinglilh port, in September 1766, I applied to Mr. RoEers, who was then Governor of it, to furniib me with a proper aflbrtmcnt of goods^ as prefents for the Indians wholnhabit the track I intended to purfue. He did this only in part; but promifed to fupply me with fuchM were ncceffary, wHen^I reached the Falls of Saint Amhonj. I afterwards learned that the Go- vernor ifolfifled hb promife in ordering the good to be delivered tome ; but thofe to whofe care he intruft- ed thenii inftead of conforming to his orders difpofed of them elfcwhere. Difappointed in my expirations from this quart#y I thought it neceflary to return to La Prairie Le Chi- en I for it was impoiiible to proc'eed any further without prefents to enfure me a favorable reception* This I did in the beginning of the year 1767, and finding my progrefs to the weft ward thus retarded, I determined to dire^^my courfe northward. I took this ftep with a view of finding a communication from the heads of the Miffiffippi into Lake Superior, in order to meet, at the grand Portage on the North- weft fide of thal^lake, the traders that ufually come, about this feafon, from Michillimackinac, Of thefe I intended to purchafe goods, and then to purfue my journey from that quarter, by way of the lakes du Pluye, Dubois, and Ounipique to the heads of the river of the weft, which, as I have faid before, falls into the Straits of Annian, the termination of my in- tended progrefs* lac*. hi ,t . {V-:: 10 INTRODUCTION. ^ 1^1. I it I accempHihed.the former part of my dcfign^ and! . ire^cbccl lake Superior in. proper time \ but unluckily tho tnKicrsI met)theiryac<)uainted mc chat they haii|| no gOAds to (p9,r% v thbfc they had with/ them beir^f barely fufficient to anfwer their own dem.inds iathcf{| fcnnote patts. Thus difap-poir.ted a fccond time. If found myfcJf obliged to return to the place tromj Hfhence 1 began my expedition, which I did after] continuing fojfne.monlhs on the north and eall bor. ders t)£)j|»^e Superior) artd exploring tic bays andS rivers, tbiit empty, liiemfclv)e8 into lliis largt bcdy of] A^rittmay 'be tBgfHMiihut I. fhoUld toy bcf6rc tliej puPicthe reafons thtttliei^ difcoTcries, ^H fo much^ importance to every one who has my conne£tioiis mith America, liAvc not been imparted to them be. fore^ notwitfeflHnding tbtT were made upwards of^ ten years agQ> I will gsve tbem to the world in a. plain^'^1 and candid manner, and without miiigHng with themf %ny complaAJil9 on account of the ill treatment I havef received* On my Arvival in England, I prefented a petitionl to his majefty in Council, praying for a reimbUrfe-U ment o^thofe fums I had expended in the fervicc otV government. This was referred to the lords com-j miflioners of trade and plantations. Their lordihips,' from the tenor of it thought the intelligence I could J give, of fo nAich importance to the nation, t'lat they^ ordered me to appear, before the board. This meA- age I obeyed, and underwent a Ipng examination \\ much I believe to the fatisfa£Vion of every lord pre- fent. "When it was finiflsed, I requtfted to knoAvj what I fhouid do with my papers ; Without hefitr-j tion the firft lord replied, that I might publifh them: whenever I pleafed. In eonfequcnce of this permifl'i- on, I difpofed of them, to a bookfeller ; but when they were nearly ready for the prcfs, an order wasi iSokd from the council board, requiring me to delivery| without I N T R 0 D 17 C T X 0 jr. II riihout (IcUy, into the ploiitatimi office, all my Charts and Jcumals, with every paper relative to the lifcoverics I had n.>»4e. In order to obey this com- land, I was obliged to rc-purch^ them from the ^ookfcUcr at a very great expence and deHver rfiem Ip^ 'This frcfh difbiirfcment I endeavored to get innexed to the actJount I hae before they were forc- ed to relinquifh it ; and when Canada and its depen- dencies were furrcndercd to the Eni^liih, it was im«.ic- .,'. tiiatci ' '.i -.) , f> m It ft 14, iS CARVER'S TRAVELS. im .-.i': il lately garrlfoned with an officer and thirty men. Thcfe were made prifoners by the Menomonies foon after the furprife of Michillimackinac, and the fort has neither been garrifoned or kept in repair fince. The bay is about ninety miles long, but differs much in its breadth j being in fome places only fifteen miles, in others from twenty to thirty. It lies nearly from north-eaft to iiputh-weft. At the entrance of it from the lake are a firing of i (lands, extending from north 10 fouth, called the Grand Traverfe. Thefe are a- bout thirty miles in length, and ferve to faciliate the pafTage of canoes, as they fhelter them from the windsy which fometimes come with violence acrofs the lake. On the fide that lies to the fouth-eail is the nearefl and beft navigation. The Iflands of the Grand Traverfe arc moftly fmal! and rocky. Many of the rocks are of an amazing fize, and appear as if they had been fafhioned by the hands fefartifls. On the largell and bwfl of thefe iflands (lands a town of the Ottovaws, at which I found one of the mofl confiderable chiefs of that nation, who repeived^ nie with every honor he could l^oflibly fh^w to a Gran- ger. But what appeared extremely fingular to me at the time, and muft do fo to every perfon unacquainted with the cufloms of the Indians, was the reception I met with on landing. As our canoes approached the fiiore, and had reached within about threefcore rods of it, the Indians began a fue-de-joy j in which they fired their pieces loaded with balls ; but at the fame time they took care to difcharge them in fuch a manner at to fly a few yards above our heads : during this they ran from one tree or flump to another, fhouting and bcheaving as if they were in the heat of battle. At Hrll I was greatly furprifedjand was on the point of or- dering my attendants to return their fire, concluding tliat their intentions were hoftile ; but being undeceiv- ed by fome of the traders, who informed me that this was their ulual method of receiving the chiefs of oth- er ■"i CARVER'S TRAVELS. ^7 rs much ■n miles, }y from it from north le arc a- iate the winds, he lake, ncareft }y fmal! ing fize, lehand* Is/landf le of the regcivcd^ a ftran- ome at uainted ption I led the rods of J fired le time mer as s they g and ^ At of or- ludingr eceiv- at this f oth. cr ■'■$ ist nations, I confidcrcd it In its true h'ghti and was pleafed with the rcfpc£l thus paid mc. I remained here one niglit. Among the prefents I made the chiefs, were fome fpirituous liquors ; with which they made themfelves merrj^ and all joined in a dance, that laftcd the greateft part of the night. In the morning when 1 departed, the chief attended me to the fhore, and, as foon as I had, embarked, ofFeretlup, in an audible voice, and with great folcmnity, a fer- vent prayer in my behalf. He prayed " that the Great Spirit would favour mc with a profperous voyage *, that he would give me :in unclouded Iky, and fmooth waters, by day and that I might lie down,, by night, an a beaver blanket, enjoying uninterrupted fleep, and pleafant dreams ; and alfo that I might find continual protection under the great pipe of peace." In this manner he continued his petitions till I could no long- er hear them. I muft here cbfer\T, that notwithftandlng the in- habitants of Europe are apt to entertain horrid ideas of the ferocity of thele favages, as they are termed, I re- ceived from every tribe of them in the interior parts, tlie moft hofpitable and courteous treatment ; and am convinced, that till they are contaminated by the ex- ample, and fpiritous liquors of tlieir more refined neighbours, they retain this friendly and inofienfive conduct towards ftrangers. Their inveteracy and cruelty to their enemies, I acknowledge to be a great abatement of the favourable opinion I would wiih to entertain of them ; but this failing is hereditary,^ and having received the fandlon of immemorial cuftom, has taken too deep root in their minds to be eafily extirpated. Among this people I eat of a very uucommon kind «f bread. The Indians, in general, ufe but little of this nutritious food : wliilft their ^orn is in the milk, as they term it, that is, juft before it h€j^m to ripen, they flige off tic kernels from the cob ^ U 2, " to !■ 'V • i] 0I\ m a8 CARVER"* TRAVELS. r' If II.*: to which they grow, aiid knead them into i( pafltf# This they are enabled to do without the addition of any liquid, by the milk that flows from them ; and when it is cffe£led, they parcel it out into cakes, and cnclofing them in leaves of the bafTwood tree, place them in not embers, where they are foon baked. And better flavored bread I never eat in any country. This place is only a fmall tillage/containing about twenty-five houfes and fixty or feventy warriors. I found nothing there worthy of further remark. The land on the fouth-eaft fide of the Green bay, is but very indifferent, being jjverfprcad with a heavy growth of hemlock, pine, fpruce, and fir-trees. The . communication between Lake Michigan and the Green bay, has been reported by fome to be impradlicabic, for the paflage of any veflels larger than canoes or boats, on account of the (hoals that lie between the iflands in the Grand Traverfe ; but on founding it I found fufficient depth for a veflel of fixty tons, and the breadth proportionable. The land adjoining to the bottom of this bay is very fertile, the country in general level, and the perfpec- tive view of it pleafing and extenfire. A few families live in the fort, which lies on the weft fide of the Fox river, and oppofite to it, on the eaft fide of its entrance, are fome French fettlers who cul- tivate the land, and appear to live very comfortably. The Green bay or bay of Puants is one of thofe places to which the French, as I have mentioned in the introdu£^ion, have given nicknames. It is termed by the inliabitants of its coafl:s, the Menomonie Bay ; but why the French have denominated it the Puant or Stinking bay, I know not. The reafon they them- felvesgive for it is, that it was not with a view to miflead flrangers, but that by adopting this method, they could converfe with each other concerning the Indians, in their prefence without being underftood by them. For it was rcmRrkcd by the perfons who firll traded CARVER'S TRA\"t:LS. haded among them, that ^hcn they were fpcaking to 6ach other about them, and mentioned their proper names they inftantly grew fufpicioui, and concluded that their vifitors were either fpeaking ill o£ them, or plotting their defttuaiori. To remedy .this they gav^ them fome other name.' The only bad confequenciel arifing from the pra£lice thcnini:^claccdis, that En- ghfh and French geographers, in their plans of the in- terior parts of America, give different names to the fame people, and thereby perplex thofe who have oc- cafion to refer to them. Lake Michigan, of which the Green Bay is a part, i^ divided on the north-eaft from Lake Huron by the Straits of Michillimackinac j and is fituatcd between forty two and forty fix degrees of latitude, and between eighty four and eighty-fevendegreei of weft longitude. Its greateft length is t^o hundred and eighty miles, its breadth about forty, and its circumferance nearly fix hundred. There is a remarkable ftring of fmall iflands bcgining over againft Aflcin*s farm, and runnig about thirty miles fouth-weft into the lake: Thefe are call- ed the Beaver Iflands. Their fituation is very p\ei* flint, biit the foil is bare. However ther afford a beau* tiful profped!^. On the north-weft parts of this Jake the w^ftcri branch out into two bays. That which lies towards the north is the Bay of Noquets, and 4;hc other thtf Green Bay juft defcribed. The waters of this as well as the other great lakes arc clear and wholefome and of fufhcient depth for the navigation of large fhips. H«lf the fpaee of th* country that lies to the eafl, and extends to Lake Hu- ron, belongs to the Ottowaw Indians. The line that divides their territories from the Chipeways, runsnear- ly north and fouth, and reaches almoft from the fouth- crn extremity of this lake, acrofs, the high lands, to Michillimackinac, through the center of which it paf- fes. ^0 that when thefe two tribes happen to meet at --'^— the j ■ j I ; ', . 1 1 i ' 5''»' 20 CARVJUR's TRAVELS. i: ■*' uh the fa Aory, they each cnCamp on their own domin- ions, at a few yards diftance from the ilockade. The country adjacent either to the call or weft fide of the lake, is compofed b^t of an indifferent foil, ex- cept where ftnall brooks or rivers empty themfelvcg into it ; on the banks of thcfc it is extremely fertile, Near the borders of the lake grow a great number of fand cherries, which are not lefs remarkable for their manner of growth, than for their cxquifite flavor. They grow upon a fmall (hrub, not more than four feet high, the boughs of which are fo loaded that they lie in clufters on the fand. As they grow only on the fand the warmth of which probably contributes to bring them to fuch perfedtion ; they are called by the French, cherries de fable, or fand cherries. The fize of them does not exceed that of a fmall mufket ball, but they are reckoned fuperior to any other fort for the purpofe pf fteeping in fpirits. There alfo grow a- round the lake, goofeberries, black currents, and an abundijince of juijiper, bearing great quantities of ber- iries of the fineft fort. Sumack likewife grows here in great plenty j the leaf of which, gathered at Michaelmas, when it turns red, is much efteemed by the natives. They mix 2r bout an equal quantity of it with their tobacco, which caufes it to fmoke pleafantly. Near this lake, and in- deed about all the great lakes, is found a kind of wil- low, termed by tlie French, bois rouge, in Englifh, red wood. Its bark when only of one year's growth, is of a fine fcarlet color, and appears very beautiful j but as it grows older, it changes into a mixture of grey and red. The ftalks of this Ihrub grow many of them to- gether, and rife to the height of fix or eight feet, the largeft not exceeding an inch diameter. The bark being fcraped from the flicks, and dried and powder- ed, is alfo mixed by the Indians with their tobacco, and is held by them in the higheft efiimation, for their winter fmoking. A weed that grows near the great Jakes, ■^t is caih ■iike a vii jlght or filver p color of an evcrg likewife Ifmoke it ; fucceda jlicd thi ire grea ijatherin Ontl tnd pro traders : :||the grea lilland, j [nebago. inftead 1 [and ent( I during The chiefs, their ct bufmef the req : plimen - but on dire«Sti( are ne^ Iiapper ; then it {■peech woma by hei her. 1 ever ] CARVER'S TRAVELS. tt kadc. >r weft fide fit foil, ex* themfclyca ly fertile. umber of :for their itc flavor, than four I that they •nly on the ributcs to lledby the The fize liket ball, T fort for ro grow'a- h and an es of bcr- nt^; the n It turns ' y mix a^ :o, which % and in- id of wil- ?Hfti, red «'th,isqf J > but a.s ;rey and 'hem to- Feet, the 'he bark powder- obacco, for their ie great akes; akcs, ill reeky places, they ufe in the fummer fcafbn, t is called by the Indians, Segockimac, and creeps ike a vine on the ground, fometimes extending t© ight or ten feet, and bearing a leaf about the fizc of filver penny, nearly round j it is of the fubftance and olor of the laurel, and is, like the tree it refembles, m evergreen. Thefe leaves, dried and powdered, thef ikewife mix with their tobacco ; and as faid before, fmoke it only during the fummer. By thefe three fuccedaneums, the pipes of the Indians are well fup*- ilicd through every feafon of the year; and as they re great fmokers, they arc very careful in properly athering and ' preparing them. On the 20th of September, I left the Gre-cn Bay, find proceeded up Fox river, ftill in company with the vijraders and fome Indians. On the 25th I arrived at 5?|the great town of the Winnebagoeg, fituated on a fmalt rifland, juft as you enter the eaftend of the lake Win- " nebago. Here the queen who prefided over this tribt inftead of a Sachem, received me with great civility, and entertained me in a very diftinguifhed manner^. during the four days I continued with her. The day after my arrival I held a council with the chiefs, of whom I aflced permiffion to pafs through their country, in my way to more remote nations, on bufinefs of importance. This was readily granted mt the requeft being efteemed by them as a great com- pliment paid tothqir tribe. The queen fat inthe council^ but only aiked a few queftions, or gave fome trifling direcTtions in matters relative to the ftate j for womenr ,;; are never allowed to fit in their councils, except they ll happen to be inverted with the fiipreme authority, and 0 then it is not cuftomary for them to make any formal '1 fpeeches as the chiefs do. She was a very antienc J woman, fmall in ftature, and not much diftinguiflied by her drefs from feveral young women that attended her. Thefe her attendants feemed greatly pleafed when ever I fliowed any tokens of rcfpc£t to their queen^ particularly Isiiftlli l*r\. mm a CARVER'S TRAVELS. ,-^i^^ mi. particularly when I falutcd her, which I frequently did to acquire hex favor. On thefe occafiorts the good old hdy endeavoured to aiTume a juvenile gaiety, ind by her Imiles ftiowed (he was equally pleaf'ed wirk the attention I paid her. The time I tarried here, I employed in making the bcft obferv^tions pofllbld on the country, and in col- letting the moft certain intelligence I could, of the o- rigin, language and cuftoms of this people. From thefc enquiries I have reafon to conclude, that the Wiiinebagoes originally refided in fbme of the pro- yinces belonging to New Mexico ; and being driven from their native country, either by inteftine divifions, or by the extentions of the Spanifliconquefts, they took refuge in thefe more northern parts about a century <»go. My reafons for adopting this fuppofition, are, firft, from their unalienable attachment to the Naudowef- fie Indians (who, they fay, gave them the earlieft fuc- cor during their emigration) notwithftanding their prefent refidence is more than (ix hundred miles dii^ tant from that people. Secondly, that their dialed totally differs from eve- ry other Indian nation yet diicovercd j it being a ve- ry uncouth, guttural jargon, which none of their neighbors will attempt to learn. They converfe with other nations in the Chipeway tongue, which Is th^ prevailing language throughout all the tribes, from the Mohawks of Cannada, to thofe who inhabit the bor- der 3 of the MiiTifippi, and from the Hurons and Illi- nois to fuch as dwell near Hudfon's Bay. Thirdly, from their inveterate hatred to the Span- iards!. Some of them informed me that they bad ma- ny excurfions to the fouth-weft, which took u.) feveral xnoons. An elder chief more particularly .icquainted me, that about forty-fix winters ago, he marched at the head of fifty warriors, towards the fouth-weft, for thxe< moons. That during this expedition, whilft they -A.'l frequently cafiorts the tiilc gaiety, eafcd wirli naking the and in col- , of the 0* e. From that the the pro- ig driven divifions, i, they took ; a century , are, firft, sTaudowef- arlieft fuc- ding their miles diP- from cre- eing a rc- f of their verfe with ich is th^ , from the t the bor- s andlili- he Span- '' Iiad ma- J;)feveral :quainted led at the weft, for n, whilft they CARVER'i TRAVELS. n cy were crofllng a plain, they difcovered a body of en on horfe-back, who belonged to the Black Peo- Ic ; for fo they call the Spaniards. As foon as they erccivcd them, they proceeded with caution, and oiicealcd thcmfelves till night cam* on ; when they 'drew fo near as to be able to difcern the number and fituation of their enemies. Finding they were not a- Ic to cope with fo great a fuperiority by day-l'ght, hey waited till they had retired to reft ; when th'jy ufhed upon them, and, after having killed the great- i\ part of the men, took eighty horfcs loaded with ,vhat they ter;ncd white ilone. This I fuppofe to • Ipiavc been f:lver, as he told me the horfes were fliod \vlth it, and that their bridles were ornamented with ?^he fame. When they had fatiated their revenge, iitliey carried oft' their fpoil, and being got fo far as to ^ i beoLif off the reach of the Spaniards that had efcapcd \^ their fury, they left the ufelefs and ponderous burthen, with which the horfes were loaded, in the woods, and mounting themfclves, in this manner returned to tlieir friends. The party they had thus defeated, I conclude to be the caravan that annually conveys to Mexico, the filvtr which the Spaniards find in great quantities on the mountains lying near the heads of ^ the Colercdo River: and the plains where the attack ^ was made, probably fbme they were obliged to pafg i over in their way to the heads of the river St. Fee, or .; Rio del Nord, which falls into the Gulf of Meiico, to the y,'til of the Miffifippi. The Winiiebagoes can ralfe about two hundred warriors. Their town contains about fifty houfes, which are ftrongly built with pallifades, and the ifl- r and on which it is fituated, nearly fifty acres. It lies tliirty five miles, reckoning according to tlie courfc pf the river, from the Green Bay. The river, for about four or five miles from the bay,* has a gentle current ; after that fpace, till you arrive at the Winnebago Lake, it is full of rocks and very rapid. •A CARVER'i TRAVELS. I ^. Tapid. At many places wc were obliged to land ouy canoes,and carry them a confiderable way. Its breadth, in general, from the Green Bay to the Winnebago Lake, is between fcvcnty and a hundred yard* : ths land on its borders very good, and thinly wooded with liickory, oak and hazel. The Winnebago Lake is about fifteen miles long from eaft to weft, and fix miles wide. At its fouth- caft corner, a river M\s into it th.\t takes its rife near fomc of the northern branches of the Illinois River. This I called the Crocodile River, in confe- quencc of a (lory that prevails among the Indians, of their having dcftroyed in fome part of it, an animal, which from their dcfcription muft be a crocodile or an alligator. The land adjacent to the Lake is very fertile, a* bounding with grapes, p'ums, and other fruits, which grow fpontaneoufly. Ti, Winnebagoes raife on it a great quantity of Indian corn, beans, pumpkins, fquaihcs and watermelons, with fome tobacco. The Lake itfelf abounds with fifh, and in the fall of the year, with geefe, ducks and teal. The latter, which refort to it in great numbers, arc remarkably good and extremely fat, and are much better flavored than thofe that are found near the fea, as they acquire iheir exceflive fatnefs by feeding on the \vlld rice, which grows fo plentifully in thefe parts. Having made Ibme acceptable prefents to the good old queen, and received her blcfling, I left the town of the Winnebagoes on the 29th of September, andabout twelve miles from it, arrived at the place where the Fox River enters the Lake, on the north fide of it^ We proceeded up this river, and on the 7th of 0(5i:o- ber reached the great Carrying Place, which divides it from the Ouifconfin. The Fox River, from the Green Bay to the Carry- ing Place, is about one hundred and eighty milesr From the Winnebago Lake to the Carrying Place the CARVER'4 TRAVELS. 25 the current is gentle, and the depth of it con- ficlerable 5 notwithftanding which, it is in fome places with difficuhy that^noes #an pafs through the obftru£^ioii8 they ibjget with from the rice flalks, %vhich arc vQ|i||^ large and iMck, and grow ficre in great abundance. The country around itis vcrjjplcr- tile, and proper in the highell degree for cul|i,vatIon, excepting in fome places near^he river, where it is. rather too low. It is in no p^ very woody, and ytt can fupplf fufHUent !b nnffiter the demands of any nj|nlbwi$)if inhabitants. ' This river is tlie grcatcft rc- fort*^^Wjld fowl of every ftirid, that I met with in the w&^ courfc of my travels ; f»cquently the fun would be obfcured by them for fome minutes together. About forty mUes up this river, frorfi ths great town of the Winnebagoes, itands a fmaller town belonging to that nation. Deer and bears are very ncnierous iff thefe pattS, and a. great manjf beavfcrs and other furs arc taken on* the ftrcanis that empty themfelves into this' rivcr^ The river I am treating of^ is remarkable for hir- ing been, hbotit Eighty yeats ago, the refidcnce ol the uniterf^ands of the Ottigflumies and the Saukies, whom the French had nicknamed, acfferding to their wonted cuftom,DeS' Sacs and Des Reynards, the Sacks and the Foxes, of whom the following anecdote waK related to me by an Indian. ~ About fixty years ago, the French miflibnnncs and traders having received many infiilts from th.cfe peo- ple, a party of French and Indians, under the com- mand of Captain Mora nd marched 'to revenge their vrongs. The Cnptain fet out from the Green B.iv in tlie winter, when they were unfufplcious of a vifit cH this kind, and purfuing his route over thefnowto their villages, which lay about fifty miles up the Fox River, came upon them by furprife. Unprepar- ed as they were, he found therri an eafy conqueft, and c(»^equcntly killed or took priioners the C gveatell f -It. • ' '1 • '! 'I . \ » 26 CARVER'S TRAVELS. 4' : ■i V V 1 3.'^'i.r ( f.. A grcateft part of them. On the return of the French to the Green Bay, one of the Indian chiefs in alliance with thim, who had a coifiderable band of the pri- foners under his care, flopped t likewife, are greatly mifreprefented. Wheth- er this is done by the French j^eographcrs (for tlie Englilh maps are all copied from theirs) through d^- fign, or for want of a juft knowledge of tlie country, I ca?it»ot fay y but r%m fatisfied that travellers who dej^nd upon them in the parts, I vifitedj will find theilffdves much at a lofs. * Near one half of the way, between the rivers, is a morafs overgro\m with a kind of long grafs, the reft of it a plain with fome few 0^ and pine trees growing thereon. I obferved here a great number of rattle- fnakes. Monf. Pinnifance, a' French trader, told mc a remarkable ftory concerning one of thefe reptiles, of which he faid, he was an eye-witncfs. An Indian be- longing to the Menomonie nation, having taken one of them, found means to tame it j and when he had done thiSfc, treated it as a Deity •, calling it his Great Father, and carrying it with him in a box, wherev- er he went. This the Indian had" done for fevcral fummers, when Monf. Pinnifance accidentally met with him at this Carrying Pface, juft as he was fcttinj;^ off for a winter's hunt. The French {gentleman was furprifed, one day, to fee the Indian place the box which contained his god, on the ground, and opening;; the door, gave him his liberty ; telling him whilit he did it, to be fure and return by the lime he l/imfelf ftiould come back, which was to be in the 'month of May following. As this was but 061obcr Monfieur told the Indian, whole fimplicity aftoniflied him, that he fancied he might wait long enough when May ar- rived for the arrival of his great father. The Indian was fo confident of his creature's obedience, that he offered to lay the Frenchman a wager of two gallons of \kmu^r>. t8 CARVER'S TRAVELS. m t m i-l i I'. ■.:■ of rum, that at the time appointed he would come and crawl into the box. This was agreec'i on, and the fecifnd week in May foilowuV^ fixed for the deter- mination of the wagert At tliaicpcriod they both met there again ; when the Inciian fet down his box, and called for his great father. The fnake heard him not ; and the time being now expired, he ac- knowledged that he had loft. However, without feeming to be difcouraged, he offered to dpublc the tet, if his great father caire^ot within Al days more. This was further agreed on ; when bChold on ,the fecond day about one o'clock, the fnake aiS^vcd, and of his own accord crawled in the box, which was placed ready for him. The French gentleman vouch- ed for the truth of this flory, and from the accounts Ihave often received of the docility of thofe creatures, I fee no reafon to doubt his veracity. I obferved that the main body of the Fox river came from the fouth-weft, that of the Ouifconfm from the north-eaft ; and alfo that fome of the fmall branchesofthife two rivers, in defcending into them, doubled within a few feet of each other, aiittle to the fouth of the Carrying Place. That two ?uch rivers iliould take their rife fo near each other, and after running fuch difFerent courfes, empty themfelves into the fea, at a diftance fo amazing (for the former hav- ing pafTed tlirough feveral great lakea, and run up- wards of two thoufand miles, falls into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the other, after joining the Mifli- fi ppi, and having run an equal number of miles, dif- cmbogues itfelf into the Gulf of Mexico) is an in- ftance fCarcely to be met in the extenfive continent of North America. I had an opportunity the year fol- lowing, of making the fame obfervations on the affin- ity of various head branches of the waters of the St. Lawrence and the Miflifippi to each other ; and now bring them as a proof, that the opinion of thofe geo- graphers, who aflert, that rivers taking their rife fo near CARVER'S TRAVELS. 29 near each other, miifl fpring from the fame fource, is erroneous. Fori perceived a vifibly diilindt fepara- tion in all of therfif i^btwithftanding, in feme places, they approached 'ib near, that I could have ftepped from one to the other." On the 8th of 0<51:ober we got our canoes into th<^" Ouifconfin Rivr, which at this place is rnore^hali a hundred yards wide ; and the next day arrived tft the Great Town of the Saukies. This is the largcfl and beftbtStt Indian town I ever faw. It contnhis about ninety houfes each large enough for feveral families. Thelfe.are built of hewn pl'^nk, neatly jointed and co- vered with bark fo compadlly as to keep out the mofl penetrating rains. Befere the doors are placed com- fortable fheds, in which the inhabitants fit, when the weather will permit, and fmoke their pipes. The ftreets are regular and fpacious ; fo that it appears more like a civilized town, than the abode (|f lavages. The land near the town is very good. In their plan-, tations, which lie adjacent to their houfes, and which are neatly laid out,thcy raife great quantities of Indian corn, beans, melons, &c. fo tlmt this place is efteemcd the bcft market for traders to furnilh themfelrcs with provifions, of any within eight hundred miles of it. The Saukiescan raife aboutthree hundred warriors, who are generally employed every fummcr in making incurfions into the territories cf the Illinois and Paw- nee'nations, from whence they return, with a great number of flaves. But thofe people frequently reta- liate, and, »n their turn, deftrcy many of the Saukics, which I judge to be the reafon that they inc^eafe no fafter. Whilft I rtaid here I took a view of fome Triountains that lie about fifteen miles to the fouthward, and a- . bound in lead ore. I afcended on one of the higheft of thefe, and had an extenfive view of the country. For many miJes nothing Mas to be fcen but kfllr moun • taiR£, which appeared at diftance like haycocks, they Cc . being ,11 ^Flf 'J ^ j^. I *t m ifi W 30 CARVER'S TRAVELS. being free from trees. Only a few groves of hickory, and ftunted oaks, covered forne of the vallies. So plentiful is lead here, fliat I faw iarge quantities of it lying about the ftreets in the town belonging to the 8aukies, and it feemed to be as good as the produce of other countries. On the 1 oth of Odlober we proceeded down the ri- ver, and the next day reached the firft town of the Ottigaumies. This town contained about fifty houfes, but we found moft -of them deferted, on ii^ount of an epidemical diforder that had lately raged among them, and carried off more than one half of the in- habitants. The grea'ier part of thofe who furvived, had retired into the woods to avoid the contagion. On the 15th we entered tliat e:£tenfiTe river the Miflifippi. The Ouifcon fin, from the Carrying Place to the pare where it falls into the Miffifippi, flow* with a jBoQooth, but fl:rong current ; the water of it is cxceedi^ly clear, and through it you may perceive a fine and fandy bottom, tolerably free from rocks. In it are a few illands, the foil of which appeared to be 'good, though fomewhat woody. The land near the river aJfo feemed to be, in general, excellent ; but that at a diftance is very full of mountains, where it is faid there are many lead mines. About five miles from the junftion of the rivers, I obfervcd th& ruins of a large town, in a very pleafing fituation. On enquiring of the neighbouring Indians, why it was thus deferted, I was informed, that about thirty years ago, the Great Spirit had appeared on the top of a pyramid of rocks, which lay at a little dif- tance from it, towards the weft, and warned them to quit their habitations ; for the land on which they were built belonged to him, and he had occafion for it. As a proof that he, who gave them thefe orders, was really the Great Spirit, he further told them, that the grafs flioukl immediately fpring up on thofe very rocks from whence he uowaddreflcd them; which they knew CARVER'S TRAVELS. 3* kne';v^ to be bare and barren. The Indians obeyed, and foon after difcovered that this miraculous aheration had taken place. They ihewed me the fpot, but the growth of the grafs appeared to be noways fupernatu- ral. I apprehend this to have been a ftratagem of the French or Spaniards, to anfwer fome felfilh view; but in what manner they efifefted their purpofes I know not. V * ;, Thisjpeople, foon after their removal, built a town on thdronk of the Mifllfippi, near the mouth of the Ouifconfin, at a place called by the French, La Prai- ries les Chiens, which fignifies the Dog Plains j it is a large town, and contains about three hundred fami- lies; the houfes r: well built after the Indian manner, and pleafantly fituated on a very rich foil, from which they raife every necefTary of life in great abundance. I faw here many horfes of a good fize and fiiape. This town is the great mart where all the adjacent tribes, and even thofe who inhabit the moft remotc^branches of the Mifliiippi, annually aflemble about the latter end of May, bringing with them their fiu-s to difpofc of to the traders. But it is not always that they con- clude their fale here ; this is determined by a gene- ral council of the chiefs, who confult whether it would be more conducive to ti>eir intereil, to fell their goods at this place, or carry them on to Louifiana, or Michil- limackinac. According to the decifion of this coun- cilj they either proceed further, or return to their dif- ferent nomes. > The Mifllfippi, at the entrance of the Ouifconfir\, near which ilinds a mountain of confiderable height, is about half a mile over; but oppofite to the laft men- tioned town, it appears to be more than a mile wide, and full of Iflands, the foil of which is extraordinary rich, and but thinly wooded. A little further to the weft, on the contrary fide, a fmall river falls into the Miflifippi, which the French w*U Le Jaun JRivierC; or the Y eiiow River. Here th« ■'" traders vi,,l 1 C ' m .. %': i •' $2 CARVER'5 TRAVELS. II ^ .^ traders who had accompaiiled me hitherto, took up their refidence for the winter. I then bought a ca- noe, and with two feryant3r:t}ne a French Canadian, and the other a Mohawk of Carnada>jon the 19th pro- ceeded up the Miffifippi. u ^< About ten days after I had parted from the traders I landed as I ufually did, every evening, and having pitched my tent, lorderedmy men, when night come on, to lay themfelves down to fleep. By a light that 1 kept burning I then fct down to copy the .naKptes I had taken in the courtl? of the preceding day. About ten o'clock, having- juftfmiflicd my memorandoms, I Hepped out of my tent to fee what weather it was. As I caft my eyes towards the bank of the river, I thought I faw by the light of the ftars, which fhonc bright, fomething that had the appearance of a herd of beads, coming down a decent at fome diftance *, whilft J|*;as wondering what they could be, one of the> nui'^l^r iuddenly fprung up, and difcovercd to me the form of a man. In an inftant they were all on their legs, «iia I could count about ten or twelve of them running towards me. I immediately re-entered the tent, and having awakened my men, ordered them to take their armes and follow me. As ray firft ap- prehenfions were for my canoe, I ran to the water's iide, and found a party of In^ans (fdf fuch I now dif- covercd them to be) on the point of plundering- it. Before I reached them, I commanded my men not to lire till I had given the word, being unwilling to be- gin hoftillities unlefs occafion abfolutely required. I accordingly advanced with.refolution, clofc to the points of their fpears, they had no other weapons, and lirandilhing my hanger, alked them with a ftern voice, ■what they wanted ? They were ftaggered at this, and perc€iving they were like to meet with a warm recep- tion, turned about and percipitately retreated. We purfued them to an adjacent wood, which they en- tered, and we faw no more of them. However, for fear CARVER'S TRAVELS. 3^ fear of their return, wc watched alternately during the remainder of the niffiht. The next day my fervants were undcrgreat j^rt&lnfioj^, anil carnftly entreat- ed me to returH^jEO^ft'ti^ers^we had lately left. But I told them, thai^if ttity would not be efteemed old women (a term of the greateft reproach among the Indians) they q^iuft follow me ; for I was determined to perfue my intended route, as an Englifhman, when once e;ig3ged in an adventure never retreated* On tlvis thdf^at into the canoe, aud I walked on tlie lliorc to guard them from any further attack. The party of Indians who had thus intended to plunder me, I af- terwards found to be fome of thofe ilraggling bands, that having been driven from among the different tribes to which they belonged, for ▼arious crimes, nowaflbciate4 thcmfelves together,and,livingby plun- der, prove very troublefome to travellers whapafs this way i nor are even Indians of every tribe fptared by tliem. The tracers had before cautioned me to be upon my guard againft them,"and I would repeat the fame caution to thofe whofe bufmefs might call thera into thefe parts. On the 1 ft of Navember I arrived at Lake Pepin, which is rather an extended part of the River Mifli- iippi, that the French have thus denominated, about two -hundred miles fro: i the Ouifconfin. The Miffi- fippi below this lake, flowes with a gentle current, but the breadth of it is very uncertain, in fome places it being upwards of a mile> in others not more than a quarter, -^his river has a range of mountains on each fide thfoaighout the whole of the way ; whicli in particular parts approach near to it, in others lie at a greater dillance. The land betwixt the mountains, and on their (ides, is generally covered with griXs, with a few groves of trees interfperfed, near which large droves of deer and elk are frequently feen feeding. In many places pyramids of rocks appeared, refem- bUng old ruinous towers } at others amazing preci- pices j l< '■' 't ■ ■ k i\ -ij i ■ ;■■■ rf. ! ■' ! ft '^^■• V, ■ ' ' 'i>J: hv^ 54 .CARVER'S TRAVELS. ■m ^^1 h k n m •J 'I pices ; and what is very remarkable, whilfl: this fcenc prefented itfelf on one fide, die qppofite fide of the fame mountain mws CQviered witk