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JC

CAPT. FRANKLIN'S

JOURNEYS TO THE POLAR SEA.

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LONDON :

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r„li;.lie.l ln-ti \.v .Icliii Murr-iv.l-oiiauu.

•'-N'

JOURNEY

TO r!ri

satUlKh Oi THK IH;T..U{ SEA,

"•V.0-2l-'25

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^ fiitlht Ai;U:

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WITH

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VOL. III.

iwtniwwi

kr.' y./Fniiieu

»fOHN' MUH

M\;

J(

JOURNEY

TO THE

SHORES OF THE POLAR SEA,

In 1819-20-21-22:

WITH

A BRIEF ACCOUNT OF THE SECOND JOURNEY
In 1825-26-27.

BY

JOHN FRANKLIN, Capt. R.N. F.R.S.

AND COMMANDER OP THE EXPEDITION.

FOUR VOLS.— WITH PLATES.
VOL. III.

LONDON:

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
MDCCCXXIX.

G

n3

i.

4455/

CONTENTS

OF

THE THIRD VOLUME.

CHAPTER VIII.— con^mMC^.

Mr. Backus Narrative of his Journey to Chipew-
yan, and Return. ....... Page 1

CHAPTER IX.

Continuation of Proceedings at Fort Enterprise
— Some Account of the Copper Indians —
Preparations for the Journey to the North-

!

ward.

43

CHAPTER X.

Departure from Fort Enterprise — Navigation of
the Copper-Mine River — Visit to the Copper
Mountain — Interview with the Esquimaux —
Departure of the Indian Hunters — Arrange-
ments made with them for our Return. 100

VI

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XI.

Navigation of the Polar Sea, in two Canoes, as
far as Cape Turnagain, to the Eastward, a
distance exceeding Five Hundred and Fift>
Miles — Observations on the probability of a
North- West Passage 190

CHAPTER Xn.

Journey across the Barren Grounds

t

a •

244

noes, as
tvard, a
id Fift>
Lity of a
. 190

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

OF

THE POLAR SEA.

244

CHAPTER VIII.

(continued.)

Fort Enterprise — Mr, Bach's Narrative of his Journey
to ChipewyaHf and Return,

The winter habitations of the Esquimaux,
who visit Churchill, are built of snow, and
judging from one constructed by Augustus
to-day, they are very comfortable dwellings.
Having selected a spot on the river, where
the snow was about two feet deep, and suf-
ficiently compact, he commenced by tracing
out a circle twelve feet in dian^eter. The
snow in the interior of the circle was next

VOL. Ill,

B

1

2 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

divided with a broad knife, having a long
handle, into slabs three feet long, six inches
thick, and two feet deep, being the thick-
ness of the layer of snow. These slabs
were tenacious enough to admit of being
moved about without breaking, or even
losing the sharpness of their angles, and
they had a slight degree of curvature, cor-
responding with that of the circle from
which they were cut. They were piled
upon each other exactly like courses of
hewn stone around the circle which was
traced out, and care was taken to smooth
the beds of the different courses with the
knife, and to cut them so as to give the wall
a slight inclination inwards, by which con-
trivance the building acquired the properties
of a dome. The dome was closed some-
what suddenly and flatly by cutting the
upper slabs in a wedge-form, instead of the
more rectangular shape of those below.
The roof was about eight feet high, and the
last aperture was shut up by a small conical
piece. The whole was built from within,
and each slab was cut so that it retained its

OF THE POLAR SEA. 3

position without requiring support until
another was placed beside it, the lightness
of the slabs greatly facilitating the operation.
When the building was covered in, a little
loose snow was thrown over it, to close up
every chink, and a low door was cut through
the walls with a knife. A bed-place was
next formed, and neatly faced up with
slabs of snow, which was then covered with
a thin layer of pine branches, to prevent
them from melting by the heat of the body.
At each end of the bed a pillar of snow was
erected to place a lamp upon, and lastly, a
porch was built before the door, and a piece
of clear ice was placed in an aperture cut in
the wall for a window.

Annexed there is a plan of a complete
Esquimaux snow-house and kitchen, and
other apartments, copied from a sketch
made by Augustus, with the names of the
different places affixed. The only fire-
place is in the kitchen, the heat of the lamps
sufficing to keep the other apartments warm.

b2

ifr

JOURNEY TO THE SHOHES
A

OF THE POLAR SEA.

5

REFERENCES TO THE PLAN.

A. Ablokeyt, steps.

B. Pahloduk, porch.

C. Wadl-leek, passage.

D. Haddnxweek, for the reception of the sweepings

of the house.

E. G. Tokheuook, antechamber, or passage.

F. Annarroeartoweek.

H. Eegah, cooking-house.

I. Eegah-natkah, passage.

K. Keidgewack, for piling wood upon.

M. Keek loot, fire-place built of stone.

L. Keek kloweyt, cooking side.

N. Eegloo, house.

O. Kattack, door.

P. Nattosucky clear space in the apartment.

a. d. Eekput, a kind of shelf where the candle
stands ; and b. c. a pit where they throw
their bones, and other oftal of their provision.

Q. Eegl-luck, bed-place.

S. bed-place, as on the other side.

R. Eegleetext, bed-side or sitting place.

T. Kietgn-nok, small pantry.

U. Haergloack, storehouse for provisions.

'1^

6 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

The purity of the material of which the
house was framed, the elegance of its con-
struction, and the translucency of its walls,
which transmitted a very pleasant light,
gave it an appearance far superior to a
marble building, and one might survey it
with feelings somewhat akin to those pro-
duced by the contemplation of a Grecian
temple, reared by Phidias ; both are tri-
umphs of art, inimitable in their kinds.

Several deer were killed near the house,
and we received some supplies from
Akaitcho. Parties were also employed in
bringing in the meat that was placed en
cache in the early part of the winter. More
than one half of these caches, however, had
been destroyed by the wolves and wolver-
enes ; a circumstance which, in conjunction
with the empty state of our store-house, led
us to fear that we should be much straitened
for provisions before the arrival of any con-
siderable number of rein-deer in this neigh-
bourhood.

A good many ptarmigan were seen at this
tim^, and the women caught some in snares,

t II

OF THE POLAR SEA. 7

but not in sufficient quantity to make any
further alteration in the rations of deers'
meat that were daily issued. They had
already been reduced from eight to the
short allowance of five pounds.

Many wolves prowled nightly about the
house, and even ventured upon the roof of
the kitchen, which is a low building, in
search of food ; Keskarrah shot a very
large white one, of which a beautiful and
correct drawing was made by Mr. Hood.

The temperature in February was consi-
derably lower than in the preceding month,
although not so low as in December, the
mean being ^25°. 3. The greatest tempe-
rature was 1° above zero, and the lowest
51° below.

On the 5 th of March the people returned
from Slave Lake, bringing the remainder of
our stores, consisting of a cask of flour,
thirty-six pounds of sugar, a roll of tobacco,
and forty pounds of powder. I received a
letter from Mr. Weeks, wherein he denied
that he had ever circulated any reports to
our disadvantage ; and stated that he had

8

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

done everything in his power to assist us,
and even discouraged Akaitcho from leav-
ing us, when he had sent him a message,
saying that he wished to do so, if he was
sure of being well received at Fort Provi-
dence.

We mentioned the contents of the letter
to the Indians, who were at the house at the
time, when one of the hunters, who had
attended the men on their journey, stated,
that he had heard many of the reports
against us from Mr. Weeks himself, and
expressed his surprise that he should ven-
ture to deny them. St. Germain soon
afterwards arrived from Akaitcho, and in-
formed us, that he left him in good humour,
and, apparently, not harbouring the slightest
idea of quitting us.

On the 12th we sent four men to Fort
Providence; and on the 17th Mr. Back
arrived from Fort Chipewyan, having per-
formed, since he left us, a journey of more
than one thousand miles on foot. I had
every reason to be much pleased with his
conduct on this arduous undertaking; but

OF THE POLAR SEA.

9

his exertions may be best estimated by the
perusal of the following narrative.

" On quitting Fort Enterprise, with Mr.
Wentzel and two Canadians, accompanied
by two hunters and their wives, our route
lay across the barren hills. We saw, during
the day, a number of deer, and, occasionally,
a solitary white wolf; and in the evening
halted near a small knot oi pines. Owing
to the slow progress made by the wives of
the hunters, we only travelled the first day
a distance of seven miles and a half. During
the night we had a glimpse of the fantastic
beauties of the Aurora Borealis, and were
somewhat annoyed by the wolves, whose
nightly howling interrupted our repose.
Early the next morning we continued our
march, sometimes crossing small lakes
(which wen just frozen enough to bear us,)
and at other times going large circuits, in
order to avoid those which were open. The
walking was extremely bad throughout the
day ; for independent of the general uneven-
ness of the ground, and the numberless large

J

ii.

10

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

¥j

M

stones which lay scattered in every direc-
tion, the unusual warmth c he weather had
dissolved the snow, which .. c only kept us
constantly wet, but deprived us of a firm
footing, so that the men, with their heavy
burdens, were in momentary apprehension
of falling. In the afternoon a fine herd of
deer was descried, and the Indians, who are
always anxious for the chase, and can hardly
be restrained from pursuing every animal
they see, set out immediately. It was late
when they returned, having had good suc-
cess, and bringing with them five tongues,
and the shoulder of a deer. We made
about twelve miles this day. The night
was fine, and the Aurora Borealis so vivid,
that we imagined, more than once, that we
heard a rustling noise like that of autumnal
lea vcc* stirred by the wind ; but alter two
hcurs of attentive listening, we were not
entirely convinced of the fact. The corus-
cations were not so bright, nor the transition
from one shape and colour to another, so
rapid as they sometimes are ; otherwise, I

1

OF THE POLAR SEA.

11

have no doubt, from the midnight silence
which prevailed, that we should have ascer-
tained this yet undecided point.

" The morning^of the 20th was so ex-
tremely hazy that we could not see ten yards
before us ; it was, therefore, late when we
started, and during our journey the hunters
complained of the weather, and feared they
should lose the track of our route. Towards
the evening it became so thick that we could
not proceed ; consequently, we halted in a
small wood, situated in a valley, having only
completed a distance of six miles.

" The scenery consisted of high hills,
which were almost destitute of trees, and
lakes appeared in the valleys. The crack-
ing of the ice was so loud during the night
as to resemble thunder, and the wolves
howled ^ound us. We were now at the
commencement of the woods, and at an
early hour, on the 21st, continued our jour-
ney over high hills for three miles, when
the appearance of some deer caused us to
halt, and nearly the remainder of the day
was passed in hunting them. In the even-

H

)..,

I"

12

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

i 1

li

ing we stopped within sight of Prospect
Hill, having killed and concealed six deer.
A considerable quantity of snow fell during
the night. ^

" The surrounding country was extremely
rugged ; the hills divided by deep ravines,
and the valleys covered with broken masses
of rocks and stones ; yet the deer fly (as it
were,) over these impediments with appa-
rent ease, seldom making a false step, and
springing from crag to crag with all the
confidence of the mountain goat. After
passing Rein-Deer Lake, (where the ice
was so thin as to bend at every step for nine
miles,) we halted, perfectly satisfied with
our escape from sinking into . the water.
While some of the party were forming the
encampment, one of the hunters killed a
deer, a part of which was concealed to be
ready for use on our return. This evening
we halted in a wood near the canoe track,
after having travelled a distance of nine
miles. The wind was S. E. and the night
cloudy, with wind and rain.

" On the 24th and 25th we underwent

si

tl

i

OF THE POLAR SEA.

15

'rospect

ix deer.

during

tremely
ravines,
masses
y (as it
I appa-
ep, and
all the

After
he ice
or nine
d with
water,
ng the
lied a
to be
rening
track,

nine
night

rwent

some fatigue from being obliged to go round
the lakes, which lay across our route, and
were not sufficiently frozen to bear us.
Several rivulets appeared to empty them-
selves into the lakes, no animals were killed,
and few tracks seen. The scenery consisted
of barren rocks and high hills, covered with
lofty pine, birch and larch trees.

" October 26. — We continued our journey,
sometimes on frozen lakes, and at other
times on high craggy rocks. When we
were on the lakes we were much impeded
in our journey by different parts which
were unfrozen. There was a visible in-
crease of wood, consisting of birch and
larch, as we inclined to the southward.
About ten A. M. we passed Icy Portage,
where we saw various tracks of the moose,
bear, and otter ; and after a most harassing
march through thick woods and over fallen
trees, we halted a mile to the westward of
Fishing Lake ; our provisions were now
allmost expended ; the weather was cloudy
with snow.

" On the 27th we crossed two lakes, and

I

14

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

performed a circuitous route, frequently
crossing high hills to avoid those lakes
which were not frozen. During the day
one of the women made a hole through the
ice, and caught a fine pike, which she gave
to us : the Indians would not partake of it,
from the idea (as we afterwards learnt,) that
we should not have sufficient for ourselves :
* We are accustomed to starvation,' said
they, * but you are not.' In the evening we
halted near Rockj Lake. I accompanied
one of the Indians to the summit of a hill,
where he shewed me a dark horizontal
cloud, extending to a considerable distance
along the mountains in the perspective,
which he said was occasioned by the Great
Slave Lake, and was considered as a good
guide to all the hunters in the vicinity. On
our return we saw two untenanted bears'
dens.

" The night was cloudy with heavy snow,
yet the following morning we continued our
tedious march ; many of the lakes remained
still open, and the rocks were high and
covered with snow, which continued to fall

OF THE POLAR SEA.

15

all day, consequently we effected but a
trifling distance, and that too with much
difficulty. In the evening we halted, having
only performed about seven miles. One of
the Indians gave us a fish which he had
caught, though he had nothing for himself;
and it was with miich trouble that he could
be prevailed upon to partake of it. The
night was again cloudy with snow. On the
29th we set out through deep snow and
thick woods, and, after crossing two small
lakes, stopped to breakfast, sending the
women on before, as they had already com-
plained of lameness, and could not keep
pace with the party. It was not long before
we overtook them on the banks of a small
lake, which though infinitely less in magni-
tude than many we had passed, yet had not
a particle of ice on its surface. It was
shoal, had no visible current, and was sur-
rounded by hills. We had nothing to eat,
and were not very near an establishment
where food could be procured ; however, as
we proceeded the lakes were frozen, and
we quickened our pace, stopping but twice

16

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

)■ !

for the hunters to smoke. Nevertheless
the distance we completed was but trifling,
and at night we halted near a lake, the men
being tired, and much bruised from con-
stantly falling amongst thick broken wood
and loose stones concealed under the snow.
The night was blowing and hazy with snow.
" On the 30th we set out with the
expectation of gaining the Slave Lake in
the evening ; but our progress was again
impeded by the same causes as before, so
that the whole day was spent in forcing our
way through thick woods and over snow-
covered swamps. We had to walk over
pointed and loose rocks, which, sliding from
under our feet, made our path dangerous,
and often threw us down several feet on
sharp-edged stones lying beneath the snow.
Once we had to climb a towering, and
almost perpendicular rock, which not only
detained us, but was the cause of great
anxiety for the safety of the women, who,
being heavily laden with furs, and one of
them with a child at her back, could not
exert themselves with the activity which

OF THE POLAR SEA.

17

such a task required. Fortunately nothing
serious occurred, though one of them once
fell with considerable violence. During the
day one of the hunters broke through the
ice, but was soon extricated ; when it be-
came dark we halted near the Bow String
Portage, greatly disappointed at not having
reached the lake. The weather was cloudy,
accompanied with thick mist and snow.
. The Indians expected to have found here a
. bear in its den, and to have made a hearty
meal of its flesh ; indeed it had been the
subject of conversation all day, and they
had even gone so far as to divide it, fre-
: quently asking me what part I preferred ;
but when we came to the spot — oh, lament-
able ! it had already fallen a prey to the
. devouring appetites of some more fortunate
hunters, who had only left sufficient evidence
that such a thing had once existed, and we
had merely the consolation of realizing an
old proverb. One of our men, however,
cuught a fish, which, with the assistance of
some weed scraped from the rocks, (tripe de
rochej) which forms a glutinous substance,

VOL. III. c

i

E^B"

.J1 M1.L- <a-.

18

JOUtlNEY TO *1IE SHORES

j(

( '

made us a tolerable sirpper ; it was not of
the most choice kind, yet good enough for
hungry men. While we were eating it I
perceived one of the women busily em-
ployed scraping an old skin, the contents
of which her husband presented us with.
They consisted of pounded meat, fat, and a
greater proportion of Indians' and deer's
hair than either ; and though such a mix-
ture may not appear very alluring to an
English stomach, it was thought a great
luxury after three days' privation in these
cheerless regions of America. Indeed, had
it not been for the precaution and generosity
of the Indians, we must have gone without
sustenance until we reached the Fort.

" On the 1st of November our men be-
gan to make a raft to enable us to cross a
river which was not even frozen at the
edges. It was soon finished, and three of
us embarked, being seated up to the ankles
in water. We each took a pine branch for
a paddle, and made an effort to gain the
opposite shore, in which, after some time,
(and not without strong apprehensions of

OF T^E rOLAR SEA.

19

drifting into the Slave Lake,) we succeeded.
In two hours the whole party was over, with
a comfortable additipn to it in the shape of
some fine fish, which the Indians had caught :
of course we did not forget to take these
friends with us, and after passing several
lakes, to one of which we saw no termina-
tion, we halted within eight miles of the
fort. The Great Slave Lake was not frozen.
*' In crossing a narrow branch.of the lake
I fell through the ice, but received no injury ;
and at noon we arrived at Fort Providence,
and were received by Mr. Weeks, a clerk
of the North- West Company, in charge of
the establishment. I fov^nd several packets
of letters for the officers, which I was de-
sirous of sending to them immediately ; but
as the Indians and their wives complained
of illness and inability to return without
rest, a flagon of mixed spirits was given
them, and their sorrows were soon forgotten.
In a quarter of an hour they pronounced
themselves excellent hunters, and capable
of going yny where ; however, their boast-
ing ceased with the last drop of the bottle,

c 2

20

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

' i:

when a crying scene took place, which
would have continued half the night, had
not the magic of an additional quantity of
spirits dried their tears, and once more,
turned their mourning into joy. It was a
satisfaction to me to behold these poor
creatures enjoying themselves, for they had
behaved in the most exemplary and active
manner towards the party, and with a
generosity and sympathy seldom found even
in the more .civilized parts of the w^orld :
and the attention and affection, which they
manifested towards their wives, evinced a
benevolence of disposition and goodness of
nature which could not fail to secure the
approbatior^ of the most indifferent observer.
" 1\ e accounts I here received of our
goods were of so unsatisfactory a nature,
that I determined to proceed, as soon as the
lake was frozen, to Moose-Deer Island, or
if necessary to the Athabasca Lake ; both
to inform myself of the grounds of the
imceremonious and negligent manner in
which the Expedition had been treated, and
to obtain a sufficient supply of ammunition

1

, I

OF THE POLAR SEA.

n

and other stores, to enable it to leave its
present situation, and proceed for the at-
tainment of its ultimate object.

" November 9. — I despatched to Fort En-
terprise one of the men with the letters
and a hundred musket-balls, which Mr.
Weeks lent me on condition that they should
be returned the first opportunity. An In-
dian and his wife accompanied the messen-
ger. Lieutenant Franklin was made ac-.
quainted with the exact state of things ; and
I awaited with much impatience the freezing
of the lake.

" November 16. — A band of Slave Indians
came to the fort with a few furs and some
bear's grease. Though we had not seen
any of them, it appeared that they had re-
ceived information of our being in the
country, and knew the precise situation of
our house, which they would have visited
long ago, but from the fear of being pillaged
by the Copper Indians. I questioned the
chief about the Great Bear and Marten
Lakes, their distance from Fort Enterprise,
&c. ; but his answers were so vague and

oo

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

unsatisfactory that they were not worth at-
tention ; his description of Bouleau's Route,
(which he said was the shortest and best,
and abundant in animals,) was very defec-
tive, though the relative points were suffi-
ciently characteristic, had we not possessed
a better route. He had never been at the
sea; and knew nothing about the mouth of
the Copper-Mine River. In the evening
he made his young nieri dance, and some-
times accompanied them himself. They
had four feathers in each hand. One com-
menced moving in a circular fbrm, lifting
both feet at the same time, siniilar to jump-
ing sideways. After a short time a second
and a third joined, and aftfer wards the
whole band was dancing, Some in a state of
nudity, others half di-essied, singing an un-
musical wild air with (I suppose) appro-
priate words ; the particular sourds of which
were, ha! ha! ha! uttered vociferously, and
with great distortion of countenance and
peculiar attitude of body, the feathers being
always kept in a tremulous motion. The
ensuing day I made the chief acquainted

\\

OF THE POLAR SEA.

29

with the object of our mission, and recom-
mended him to keep at peace with his
neighbouring tribes, and to conduct himself
with attention and friendship towards the
whites. I then gave him a medal, telling
him it was the picture of the King) whom
they emphatically term * their Great Father.'

^^ November 18. — We observed two mock
moons at equal distances from the central
one; and the whole were encircled by a
halo: the colour of the inner edge of the
large circle was a light red, inclining to a
faint purple.

" November ,^0. — Two parheha were ob-
servable with a halo; the colours of the
inner edge of the circle were a bright car-
mine and red lake, intermingled with a rich
yellow, forming a purplish orange; the
outer edge was pale gamboge.

" December 5. — A man was ^ent some
distance on the lake, to see if it was sv^-:
ciently frozen for us to cross. I need
scarcely mention my satisfaction) when h^
returned with the pleasing information that
it was.

u

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

" December 7. — I quitted Fort Provi-
dence, being accompanied by Mr. Wentzel,
Beauparlant, and two other Canadians, pro-
vided with dogs and sledges. We proceeded
along the borders of the lake, occasionally
crossing deep bays, and at dusk encamped
at the Gros Cap, having proceeded twenty-
five miles.

" December 8. — We set out on the lake
with an excessively cold north-west wind,
and were frequently interrupted by large
pieces of ice which had been thrown up by
the violence of the waves during the pro-
gress of congelation, and at dusk we en-
camped on the Rein-Deer Islands.

** The night was fine, with a faint Aurora
Borealis. Next day the wind was so keen,
that the men proposed conveying me in a
sledg3 that I might be the less exposed, to
which, after some hesitation, I consented.
Accordingly a rein-deer skin and a blanket
were laid along the sledge, and in these I
was wrapped tight up to the chin, and
lashed to the vehicle, just leaving sufficient
play for my head to perceive when I was

OF THE POLAR SEA.

95

about to be upset on some rovigh projecting
piece of ice. Thus equipped, we set off
before the wind, (a favourable circums^ince
on a lake,) and went on very well until
noon, when the ice being driven up in
ridges, in such a manner as to obstruct us
very much, I was released : and I confess
not unwillingly, though I had to walk the
remainder of the day.

*' There are large openings in many parts
where the ice had separated, and in at-
tempting to cross one of them, the dogs fell
into the water and were saved with difficulty.
The poor animals suffered dreadfully from
the cold, and narrowly escaped being frozen
to death. We had quickened our pace
towards the close of the day, but could not
get sight of the land ; and it was not till the
sun had set that we perceived it about four
miles to our left, which obliged us to turn
back and head the wind. It was then so
cold, that two of the party were frozen al-
most immediately about the face and ears.
I escaped, from having the good fortune to
possess a pair of gloves made of rabbits'

I ^i

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JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

skin, with which I kept constantly chafing
the places which began to be affected. At
six P.M. we arrived at the fishing-huts
near Stony Island, and remained the night
there. The Canadians were not a little
surprised at seeing us, whom they had :u-
ready given up for lost — nor less co dt the
manner by which we had come — for they
all affirmed that the lake near them was
quite free from ice the day before.

" December 10. — At an early hour we
quitted the huts, lashed on sledges as before,
with some little addition to our party; and
at thre^i hours thirty minutes P.M. arrived
at the North -West Fort on Moose-Deer
Island, where I was received by Mr. Smith,
with whom I had been acquainted at the
Athabasca. He said he partly expected
me. The same evening I visited Messrs.
M*Vicar and M*Aulay at Hudson's Bay
Fort, when I found the reports concerning
our goods were but too true, there being in
reality but five packages for us. I also
Was informed that two Esquimaux, Au-
gustus the chief, and Junius his servant}

OF THE POLAR SEA.

37

who had been sent from Fort Churchill by
Governdr Williams, to serve in the capacity
of interpreters to the Expedition, were at
the fort. These men were short of stature,
but muscular, apparently good-natured, and
perfbctly acquainted with the purpose ibr
which they were intended. They had
built themselves a snow house on an ad-
jacent island, v^here they used frequently to
sleep. The following day I examined the
pieces, and to my great disappointment
found them to consist of three kegs of spi-
rits, already adulterated by the voyagers
who had brought them ; a keg of flour, and
thirty-five pounds of sugar, instead of sixty.
The ammunition and tobacco^ the two great-
est requisites, were left behind.

" I lost no time in making a demand
fVbm both parties ; and though their united
list did not furnish the half of what was re-
quired, yet it is possible that every thing
was giv^h by them which coUld be spared
consistently with their separate intef;.sts,
pai-ticlilai-ly by Mr. M *Vicar, who in many
articles gave me the whole he had in his

m

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28

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

possession. These things were sent away
immediately for Fort Enterprise, when an
interpreter arrived with letters from Lieu-
tenant Franklin, which referred to a series
of injurious reports said to have heen pro-
pagated against us by some one at Fort
Providence.

" Finding a sufficiency of goods could not
be provided at Moose-Deer Island, I deter-
mined to proceed to the Athabasca Lake,
and ascertain the inclinations of the gentle-
men there. With this view I communicated
my intentions to both parties; but could
only get dogs enough from the North-West
Company to carry the necessary provisions
for the journey. Lideed Mr. Smith in-
formed me plainly he was of opinion that
nothing could be spared at Fort Chipewyan ;
that goods had never been transported so
Ibng a journey in the winter season, and
that the same dogs could not possibly go
and return ; besides it was very doubtful if
I could be provided with dogs there ; and
finally, that the distance was great, and
woidd take sixteen days to perform it. He

OF THE POLAR SEA.

29

added that the provisions would be mouldy
and bad, and that from having to walk con-
stantly on snow-shoes, I should suffer a
great deal of misery and fatigue. Notwith-
standing these assertions, on the 23d of
December I left the fort, with Beauparlant
and a Bois-brule, each having a sledge
drawn by dogs, laden with pemmican. We
crossed an arm of the lake, and entered the
Little Buffalo River, which is connected
with the Salt River, and is about fifty yards
wide at its junction with the lake — the
water is brackish. This route is usually
taken in the winter, as it cuts off" a large
angle in going to the Great Slave River. In
the afternoon we passed two empty fishing
huts, and in the evening encamped amongst
some high pines on the banks of the river,
having had several snow-showers during the
day, which considerably impeded the dogs,
so that we had not proceeded more than
fifteen miles.

*' December 24 and 25. — We continued
along the river, frequently making small
portages to avoid going round the points,

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8:0

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

and passed some small canoes, which the
Indians had left for the winter. The snow
was so deep ithat the dogs were obliged to
-stop every ten minutes to rest ; and the
cold so excessive, that both the men were
badly frozen on both sides of the face and
chin. At length, having come to a long
meadow, which the dogs could not cross
that night, we halted in an adjoining wood,
and were presently joined by a Canadian,
Vv'ho was on his return to the fort, ^nd who
treated us with spme fresh meat in exchange
for pemmican. During the latter part of
the day we had seen numerous tracks of the
moose, buffalo, and marten.

" December 26, — The weather was so cold
that we were compelled to run to prevent
ourselves from freezing; our route lay
across some large meadows which appeared
to abound in animals, though the Indians
around Slave Lake are in a state of great
want. About noon we passed a sulphur-
stream, which ran into the river ; it appeared
to come from a plain about fifty yards dis-
,tant. There were no rocks near it, and the

OF THE POLAR SEA..

81

soil through which it took its course was
composed of a reddish clay. 1 was much
galled by the strings of the snow-shoes
during the day, and once got a severe fall,
occasioned by the dogs running over one of
my feet, and dragging me some distance,
my snow-shoe having become entangled
with the sledge. In the evening we lost
our way, from the great similarity of ap-
pearance in the country, and it was dark
before we found it again, when we halted in
a thick wood, after having come about six-
teen miles from the last encampment. Much
snow fell during the night.

** At an early hour on the 27th of De-
cember, we continued our journey over the
surface of a long but narrow lake, and then
through a wood, which brought us to the
grand detour on the Slave River. The
weather was extremely cloudy, with occa-
sional falls of snow, which tended greatly to
impede orr progress, from its gathering in
lumps between the dogs' toes ; and though
they did not go very fast, yet my left knee
pained me so much, that I found it difficult

I .

32

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

li

V i!

to keep up with them. At three P.M. we
halted within nine miles of the Salt River,
and made a hearty meal of mouldy pem-
mican.

*' December 28 and 29. — We had much
difficulty in proceeding, owing to the poor
dogs being quite worn out, and their feet
perfectly raw. We endeavoured to tie shoes
on them, to afford them some little relief,
but they continually came off when amongst
deep snow, so that it occupied one person
entirely to look after them. In this state
they were hardly of any use among the
steep ascents of the portages, when we were
obliged to drag the sledges ourselves. We
found a few of the rapids entirely frozen.
Those that were not had holes and large
spaces about them, from whence issued a
thick vapour, and in passing this we found
it particularly cold ; but what appeai. id
most curious was the number of small foun-
tains which rose through the ice, and often
rendered it doubtful which way we should
take. I was much disappointed at finding
several falls (which I had intended to

OF THE POLAR SEA.

33

sketch,) frozen almost even with the upper
and lower parts of the stream; the ice was
connected by a thin arch, and the rushing
of the water underneath might be heard at
a considerable distance. On the banks of
these rapids there was a constant overflow-
ing of the water, but in such small quantities
as to freeze before it had reached the sur-
face of the central ice, so that we passed
between two ridges of icicles, the trans-
parency of which was beautifully contrasted
by the flakes of snow and the dark green
branches of the over-hanging pine.

" Beauparlant complained bitterly of the
cold whilst among the rapids, but no sooner
had he reached the upper part of the river,
than he found the change of ti. j temperature
so great, that he vented his indignation
against the heat. — * Mais c'est terrible,' said
he, to be frozen and sun-burnt in the same
day. The poor fellow, who had been a long
time in the country, regarded it as the most
severe punishment that could have been
inflicted on him, and would willingly have
given a part of his wages rather than this

VOL. III.

D

,v

34

JOURNEY TO THE SHOHES

I

disgrace had happened ; for there is a pride
amongst * Old Voyagers' which makes them
consider the state of being frost-bitten as
effeminate, and only excusable in a < Pork-
eater,' or one newly come into the country.
I was greatly fatigued, and suffered acute
pains in the knees and legs, both of which
were much swollen when we halted a little
above the Dog River.

" December 30 and 31. — Our journey
these days was by far the most annoying
we had yet experienced; but, independent
of the vast rr. asses of ice that were piled on
one another, as well as the numerous open
places about the rapids, (and they did not a
little impede us,) there was a strong gale
from the north-west, and so dreadfully keen,
that our time was occupied in rubbing the
frozen parts of the face, and in attempting
to warm the hands, in order to be prepared
for the next operation. Scarcely wias one
place cured by constant friction than another
was frozen; and though there was nothing
pleasant about it, yet it was laughable
enough to observe the dexterity which was

OF THE POLAR SEA,

35

used in changing the position of the hand
from the face to the mitten, and vice vcrsd.
One of the men was severely affected, the
whole side of his face being nearly raw.
Towards sunset I suffered so much in my
knee and ankle, from a recent spraiu; that
it was with difficulty I could proceed with
snow-snoes to the encampment on the Stony
Islands. But in this point I was not sin-
gular ; for Beauparlant was almost as bad,
and without the same cause.

" January 1, 1821. — We set out with a
quick step, the wind still blowing fresh from
the north-west, which seemed in some mea-
sure to invigorate the dogs ; for towards
sunset they left me considerably behind.
Indeed my legs and ankles were now so
swelled,, that it was excessive pain to drag
the snow-shoes after me. At night we
halted on the banks of Stony River, when
I gave the men a glass of grog, to comme-
morate the new year; and the next day,
January 2, we arrived at Fort Chipewyan,
after a journey of ten days and four hours,
the shortest time in which the distance had

d2

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SG

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

been performed at the same season. I
found Messrs. G. Keith and S. M*Gillivray
in charge of the fort, who were not a little
surprised to see me. The commencement
of the new year is the rejoicing season of
the Canadians, when they are generally
intoxicated for some days. I postponed
making any demand till this time of festivity
should cease; but on the same day I went
over to the Hudson's Bay Fort, and deli-
vered Lieutenant Franklin's letters to Mr.
Simpson. If they were astonished on one
side to see me, the amazement was still
greater on the other ; for reports were so
far in advance, that we were said to have
already fallen by the spears of the Esqui-
maux.

" January 3. — I made a demand from
both parties for supplies ; such as ammuni-
tion, gun-flints, axes, files, clothing, tobacco,
and spirits. I stated to them our extreme
necessity, and that without their assistance
the expedition must be arrested in its pro-
gress. The answer from the North- West
gentlemen was satisfactory enough ; but on

OF THE POLAR SEA.

37

tlie Hudson's Bay side I was told, * that
any farther assistance this season entirely
depended on the arrival of supplies expected
in a few weeks from a distant establish-
ment.' I remained at Fort Chipewyan five
weeks, during which time some laden sledges
did arrive, but I could not obtain any addi-
tion to the few articles I had prot ed at
first. A packet of letters for us, from
England, having arrived, I made prepara-
tions for my return, but not before I had
requested both Companies to send next
year, from the depots, a quantity of goods
for our use, specified in lists furnished to
them.

" The weather, during my abode at Chi-
pewyan, was generally mild, with occasional
heavy storms, most of which were antici-
pated by the activity of the Aurora Borealis ;.
and this I observed had been the case
between Fort Providence and the Athabasca
in December and January, though not in-
variably so in other parts of the country.
One of the partners of the North- West
Company related tome the following singular

I

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38

JOUllNEY TO THE SHORES

story: — * He was travelling in a canoe in
the English River, and had landed near the
Kettle Fall, when the coruscations of the
Aurora Borealis were so vivid ^nd low,
that the Canadians fell on their faces, and
began praying and crying, fearing they
should be killed ; he himself threw away
his gun and knife, that they might not '
attract the flashes, for they were within two
feet from the earth, flitting along with
incredible swiftness, and moving parallel to
its surface. They continued for upwards
of five minutes, as near as he could judge,
and made a loud rustling noise, like the
waving of a flag in a strong breeze. After
they had ceased, the sky became clear, with
little wind.'

" February 9. — Having got everything
arranged, and had a hearty breakfast with
a coupe de Veau de vie, (a custom amongst
the traders,) I took my departure, or rather
attempted to do so, for on going to the gate
there was a long range of women, who
came to bid me faiewell. They were all
dressed (after the manner of the coimtry)

OF THE POLAR SEA.

39

in blue or green cloth, with their hair fresh
greased, separated before, and falling down
behind, not in careless tresses, but in a good
sound tail, fastened with black tape or
riband. This was considered a great com-
pliment, and the ceremony consisted in
embracing the whole party.

** I had with me four sledges, laden with
goods for the Expedition, and a fifth belong-
ing to the Hudson's Bay Company. We
returned exactly by the same route, suffer-
ing no other inconvenience but that arising
from the chafing of the snow-shoe, and bad
weather. Some Indians, whom we met on
the banks of the Little Buffalo River, were
rather surprised at seeing us, for they had
heard that we were on an island, which was
surrounded by Esquimaux. The dogs were
almost worn out, and their feet raw, when,
on February the 20th, we arrived at Moose-
Deer Island with our goods all in good
order. Towards the end of the month two
of our men arrived with lettc rs from Lieu-
tenant Franklin, containing some fresh de-
mands, the major part of which I was for-

40

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

tunate enough to procure without the least
trouble. Having arranged the accounts and
receipts between the Companies and the
Expedition, and sent everything before me
to Fort Providence, I prepared for my
departure ; and it is but justice to the
gentlemen of both parties at Moose-Deer
Island to remark^ that they afforded the
means of forwarding our stores in the most
cheerful and pleasant manner.

" March 5. — I took leave of the gentle-
men at the forts, and in the afternoon got
to the fisheries near Stony Island, where I
found Mr. M* Vicar, who was kind enough
to have a house ready for my reception ;
and I was not a little gratified at perceiving
a pleasant-looking girl employed in roasting
a fine joint, and afterwards arranging the
table with all the dexterity of an accom-
plished servant.

" March 6. — We set out at daylight, and
breakfasted at the Rein-Deer Islands. As
the day advanced, the heat became so
oppressive, that each pulled off his coat and
ran till sunset, when we halted with two

OF THE POLAR SEA.

41

men who were on their return to Moose-
Deer Island. There was a beautiful Au-
rora Borealis in the night ; it arose about
N.b.W., and divided into three bars, di-
verging at equal distances as far as the
zenith, and then converging until they met
in the opposite horizon ; there were some
flashes at right angles to the bars.

'* March 7. — We arrived at Fort Provi-
dence, and found our stores safe and in
good order. There being no certainty when
the Indian who was to accompany me to
our house would arrive, and my impatience
to join my companions increasing as I ap-
proached it, after making the necessary ar-
rangements with Mr. Weeks respecting our
stores, on March the 10th I quitted the
fort with two of our men, who had each a
couple of dogs and a sledge laden with pro-
vision. On the 13th we met the Indian,
near Icy Portage, who was sent to guide
me back. On the 14th we killed a deer,
and gave the dogs a good feed; and on
the 17th, at an early hour, we arrived at
Fort Enterprise, having travelled about

ft

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42

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

eighteen miles .1 day. I had the pleasure of
meeting my friends all in good healthy after
an ahsence of nearly five months, during
which time I had travelled one thousand
one hundred and four miles, on snow-shoes,
and had no other covering at night in the
woods, than a blanket and deer-skin, with
the thermometer frequently at — 40°, and
once at — 57; and sometimes passing two
or three days without tasting food." '

OF t;ie polar sea.

4,1

CHAPTER IX.

Coniinuatum of Proceedingt at Fort Knterprise — Some
Account of the Copper Indians — Preparations for
the Journey to the Northward,

March 18, 1821. — I shall now give a
brief account of the Copper Indians, termed
by the Chipewyans Tantsawhot-ditineh, or
Hirch-rind Indians. They were originally
a tribe of the Chipewyans, and, according
to their own account, inhabited the south
side of Great Slave Lake, at no very dis-
tant period. Their language, traditions,
and customs are essentially the same witli
those of the Chipewyans, but in jiersonal
character they have greatly the advantage of
that people, owing probably to local causes,
or perhaps to their procuring their food
more easily and in greater abunchmce. They
hoUl women in the same low estimation as
the Chipewyans do, looking upon them as a

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JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

'{

Ji

I n

kind of property, which the stronger may
take from the weaker whenever there is just
reason for quarrelHng, if the parties are of
their own nation, or whenever they meet, if
the weaker party are Dog-ribs or other
strangers. They suffer, however, the kinder
affections to show themselves occasionally ;
they in general live happy with their wives,
the women are contented with their lot, and
we have witnessed several instances of
strong attachment. Of their kindness to
strangers we are fully qualified to speak ;
their love of property, attention to their in-
terests, and fears for the future, made them
occasionally clamorous and unsteady, but
their delicate and humane attention to us
in a season of great distress, at a future pe-
riod, are indelibly engraven on our memo-
ries. Of their notions of a Deity or future
state, we never could obtain any satisfactory
account; they were unwilling perhaps to
expose their opinions to the chance of ridi-
cule. Akaitcho generally evaded our ques-
tions on these points, but expressed a desire
to learn from us, and regularly attended

H

i

OF THE POLAR SEA.

45

er may
2 is just
are of
meet, if
• other
kinder
onally ;
' wives,
lot, and
ices of
less to
speak ;
leir in-
B them
y, but
to us
e pe-
piemo-
uture
ctory
ips to
ridi-
ques-
esire
nded

Divine Service during his residence at the
fort, behaving with the utmost decorum.

This leader, indeed, and many others of
his tribe, possess a laudable curiosity, which
might easily be directed to the most impor-
tant ends ; and I believe that a well-con-
ducted Christian mission to this quarter
would not fail of producing the happiest
effect. Old Keskarrah alone used boldly
to express his disbelief of a Supreme Deity,
and state that he could not credit the exist-
ence of a Being, whose power was said to
extend everywhere, but whom he had not
yet seen, although he was now an old man.
The aged sceptic is not a little conceited,
as the following exordium to one of his
speeches evinces : " It is very strange that
I never meet with any one who is equal in
sense to myself." The same old man, in
one of his communicative moods, related
to us the following tradition. The earth
had been formed, but continued enveloped
in total darkness, when a bear and a squirrel
met on the shores of a lake ; a dispute
arose as to their respective powers, which

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46

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

they agreed to settle by running in opposite
directions round the la*ce, and whichever
arrived first at the starting point, was to
evince his superiority by some signal act
of power. The squirrel beat, ran up a tree,
and loudly demanded light, which instantly
beaming forth, discovered a bird dispelling
the gloom with its wings ; the bird was
afterwards recognised to be a err • '. The
squirrel next broke a piece of bark from
the tree, endowed it with the power of
floating, and said, " Behold the material
which shall afford \e future inhabitants of
the earth the mean^ of traversing the wa-
ters.'*

The Indians are not the first people who
have ascribed the origin of nautics to the
ingenuity of the squirrel. The Copper In-
dians consider the bear, otter, and other
animals of prey, or rather some kind of
spirits which assume the forms of these
creatures, as their constant enemies, and
the cause of every misfortune they endure ;
and in seasons of difficulty or sickness
they alternately deprecate or abuse them.

OF THE POLAR SEA.

47

opposite
liichever
was to
^nal act
p a tree,
nstantly
spelling
ird was
\ The
rk from
)wer of
naterial
tants of
:he wa-

)le who
to the

per In-
other

ind of
these
and

idure ;

ckness

them.

Few of this nation have more than one
wife at a time, and none but the leaders
have more than two. Akaitcho has three,
and the mother of his only son is the fa-
vourite. They frequently marry two sis-
ters, and there is no prohibition to the
intermarriage of cousins, but a man is re-
stricted from marrying his niece.

The last war excursion they made against
the Esquimaux was ten years ago, when
they destroyed about thirty persons, at the
mouth of \»hat they term Stony-Point River,
not far from the mouth of the Copper-Mine
River. They now seem desirous of being
Oil friendly terms with that persecuted na-
tion, and hope, through our means, to esta-
blish a lucrative commerce with them.
Indeed, the Copper Indians are sensible of
the advantag'^s that would accrue to them,
were they made the carriers of goods be-
tween the traders and the Esquimaux.

At the time of Hearne's visit, the Copper
Indians, being unsupplied with fire-arms,
were oppressed by the Chipewyans; but
even that traveller had occasion to praise

mmmmm

48

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

their kindness of heart. Since they have
received arms from the traders, the Chipew-
yans are fearful of venturing upon their
lands ; and all of that nation, who frequent
the shores of the Great Slave Lake, hold
the name of Akaitcho in great respect.
The Chipewyans have no leader of equal
authority amongst themselves.

The number of the Copper Indians may
be one hundred and ninety souls, viz,,
eighty men and boys, and one hundred and
ten women and young children. There are
forty-live hunters in the tribe. The adhe-
rents of Akaitcho amount to about forty
men and boys ; the rest follow a number of
minor chiefs.

For the following notices of the nations
on Mackenzie's River, we are principally
indebted to Mr. Wentzel, who resided for
many years in that quarter.

The Thlingcha-dinnehi or Dog-ribs, or, as
they are sometimes termed after the Crees,
who formerly warred against them. Slaves,
inhabit the country to the westward of the
Copper Indians, as far as Mackenzie's

OF THE POLAR SEA.

49

River- They are of a mild, hospitable, but
rather indolent, disposition ; spend much of
their time in amusements, and are fond of
singing and dancing. In this respect, and in
another, they differ very widely from most
of the other aborigines of North America.
I allude to their kind treatment of the
women. The men do the laborious work,
whilst their wives employ themselves in
ornamenting their dresses with quill-work,
and in other occupations suited to their sex.
Mr. Wentzel has often known the young
married men to bring specimens of their
wives' needle-work to the forts, and exhibit
them with much pride. Kind treatment of
the fair sex being usually considered as an
indication of considerable progress in civili-
zation, it might be worth while to inquire
how it happens, that this tribe has stept so
far beyond its neighbours. It has had, un-
doubtedly, the same common origin with
the Chipewyans, for their languages differ
only in accent, and their mode of life is
essentially the same. We have not suffi-
cient data to prosecute the inquiry with any

VOL. III. E

50

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

hope of success, but we may recall to the
reader's memory what was formerly men-
tioned, that the Dog-ribs say they came
from the westward, whilst the Chipewyans
say that they migrated from the eastward.

When bands of Dog-ribs meet each other
after a long absence, they perform a kind
of dance. A piece of ground is cleared for
the purpose, if in winter of the snow, or if
in summer of the bushes; and the dance
frequently lasts for two or three days, the
parties relieving each other as they get
tired. The two bands commence the dance
with their backs turned to each other, the
individuals following one another in Indian
file, and holding the bow in the left hand, and
an arrow in the right. They approach ob-
liquely, after many turns, and when the two
lines are closely back to back, they feign to
see each other for the first time, and the
bow is instantly transferred to the right
hand, and the arrow to the left, signifying
that it is not their intention to employ them
against their friends. At a fort they use
feathers instead of bows. The dance is ac-

OF THE POLAR SEA.

51

companied with a song. These people are
the dancing-masters of the country. The
Copper Indians have neither dance nor
music but what they borrow from them.
On our first interview with Akaitcho, at
Fort Providence, he treated us, as has al-
ready been mentioned, with a representation
of the Dog-rib dance; and Mr. Back, during
his winter journey, had an opportunity of
observing it performed by the Dog-ribs
themselves.

The chief tribe of the Dog-rib nation,
termed Horn Mountain Indians, inhabit the
country betwixt Great Bear Lake and the
west end of Great Slave Lake. They
muster about two hundred men and boys
capable of pursuing the chase. Small de-
tachments of the nation frequent Marten
Lake, and hunt during the summer in the
neighbourhood of Fort Enterprise. Indeed
this part of the country was formerly ex-
clusively theirs, and most of the lakes and
remarkable hills bear the names which they
imposed upon them. As the Copper In-
dians generally pillage them of their women

E 2

52

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

and furs when they meet, they endeavour
to avoid them, and visit their ancient quar-
ters on the barren grounds only by stealth.

Immediately to the .iurthward of the
Dog-ribs, on the north side of Bear Lake
River, are the Kawcho-dinnehy or Hare In-
dians, who also speak a dialect of the
Chipewyan language, and have much of the
same manners with the Dog-ribs, but are
considered both by them and by the Copper
Indians to be great conjurers. These
people report that, in their hunting excur-
sions to the northward of Great Bear Lake,
they meet small parties of Esquimaux.

Immediately to the northward of the
Hare Indians, on both banks of Mackenzie's
River, are the Tykothee-dinnehy Loucheux,
Squint-Eyes, or Quarrellers. They speak
a language distinct from the Chipewyan.
They war often with the Esquimaux at the
mouth of Mackenzie's River, but have oc-
casionally some peaceable intercourse with
them, and it would appear that they find no
difficulty in understanding each other, there
being considerable 3imilarity in their Ian-

OF THE POLAR SEA.

53

guages. Their dress also resembles the
Esquimaux, and differs from that of the
other inhabitants of Mackenzie's River.
The Tykothee-dinneh trade with Fort Good-
Hope, situated a considerable distance be-
low the confluence of Bear Lake River with
Mackenzie's River, and, a^ the traders sup-
pose, within three days march of the Arctic
Sea. It is the most northern establishment
of the North- West Company, and some
small pieces of Russian copper coin once
made their way thither across the continent
from the westward. Blue or white beads
are almost the only aiticles of European
manufacture coveted by the Loucheux.
They perforate the septum of the nose, and
insert in the opening three small shells,
which they procure at a high price from the
Esquimaux.

On the west bank of Mackenzie's River
there are several tribes who speak dialects
of the Chipewyan language, that have not
hitherto been mentioned. The first met
with, on tracing the river to the southward
from Fort Good-Hope, are the Amhawtaw-

54

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

hoot'dinnchy or Sheep Indians. They in-
habit the Rocky Mountains near the sources
of the Dawhoot-dinneh River, which flows
into Mackenzie's, and are but Httle known
to the traders. Some of them have visited
Fort Good-Hope. A report of their being
cannibals may have originated in an imper-
fect knowledge of them.

Some distance to the southward of this
people are the Rocky Mountain Indians, a
small tribe which musters about forty men
and boys capable of pursuing the chase.
They differ but little from the next we are
about to mention, the Edchawtawhoot'dtnneh^
Strong-bow, Beaver, or Thick-wood In-
dians, who frequent the Riviere aux Liards,
or south branch of Mackenzie's River. The
Strong-bows resemble the Dog-ribs some-
what in their disposition; but when they
meet they assume a considerable degree of
superiority over the latter, who meekly sub-
mit to the haughtiness of their neighbours.
Until the year 1813, when a small party of
them, from some unfortunate provocation,
destroyed Fort Nelson on the Rivihe aux

OF THE POLAR SEA.

55

LiardSf and murdered its inmates, the
Strong -bows were considered to be a
friendly and quiet tribe, and esteemed as
excellent hunters. They take their names,
in the first instance, from their dogs. A
young man is the father of a certain dog,
but when he is married and has a son, he
styles himself the father of the boy. The
women have a habit of reproving the dogs
very tenderly when they observe them
fighting. — " Are you not ashamed," say
they, " are you not ashamed to quarrel
with your little brother?" The dogs ap-
pear to understand the reproof, and sneak
off.

The Strong-bows and Rocky-Mountain
Indians have a tradition, in common with
the Dog-ribs, that they came originally from
the westward, from a level country, where
there was no winter, which produced trees,
and large fruits, now unknown to them. It
was inhabited also by many strange animals,
amongst which there was a small one whose
visage bore a striking resemblance to the
human countenance. During their resi-

56

JOURNEY TO THE oHORES

I

(

i

I

dence in this land, their ancestors were
visited by a man who healed the sick,
raised the dead, and performed many other
miracles, enjoining them at the same time
to lead good lives, and not to eat of the
entrails of animals, nor to use the brains
for dressing skins until after the third day ;
and never to leave the skulls of deer upon
the ground within the reach of dogs and
wolves, but to hang them carefully upon
trees. No one knew from whence this good
man came, or whither he went. They were
driven from that land by the rising of the
waters, and following the tracks of animals
on the sea-shore they directed their course
to the northward. At length they came to
a strait, which they crossed upon a raft, but
the sea has since frozen, and they have
never been able to return. These traditions
are unknown to the Chipewyans.

The number of men and boys of the
Strong-bow nation who are capable of hunt-
ing may amount to seventy.

There are some other tribes who also
speak dialects of the Chipewyan, upon the

OF THE POLAR SEA.

57

upper branches of the Ri*iere aux Liards,
such as the Nohhannies and the TsiU-aw-
dawhoot ' dinnehf or Brushwood Indians.
They are but little known, but the latter
are supposed occasionally to visit some of
the establishments on Peace River.

Having now communicated as briefly as
I could the principal facts that came to our
knowledge regarding the Indians in this
quarter, I shall resume the narrative of
events at Fort Enterprise. The month of
March proved fine. The thermometer
rose once to 24° above zero, and fell upon
another day 49° below zero, but the mean
was— 11^°

On the 23d the last of our winter's stock
of deer's meat was expended, and we were
compelled to issue a little pounded meat
which we had reserved for making pemmi-
can for summer use. Our nets, which were
set under the ice on the 15 th, produced only
two or three small fish daily. Amongst
these was the round fish, a species of Core-
gonus, which we had not previously seen.

On the following diiy two Indians came

58

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

H

with a message from the Hook, the chief,
next to Akaitcho in authority ainongst the
Copper Indians. His band was between
West Marten and Great Bear Lakes, and
he offered to provide a quantity of dried
meat for us on the banks of the CoppcT-
Mine River in the beginning of summer,
provided we sent him goods and ammuni-
tion. It was in his power to do this with-
out inconvenience, as he generally spends
the summer months on the banks of the
river, near the Copper Mountain; but we
had no goods to spare, and I could not ven-
ture to send any part of our small stock of
ammunition until I saw what the necessities
of our own party required. I told them,
however, that I would gladly receive either
provisions or leather when we met, and
would pay for them by notes on the North-
West Company's post ; but to prevent any
misunderstanding with Mr. Weeks, I re-
quested them to take their winter's collec-
tion of furs to Fort Providence before they
went to the Copper-Mine River. They
assured me that the Hook would watch

■ ii

OF THE POLAR SEA.

59

ammuni-

anxiously for our pasuing, as he was unwell,
and wished to consult the doctor.

Several circumstances having come lately
to my knowledge that led me to suspect
the fidelity of our interpreters, they were
examined upon this subject. It appeared
that in their intercourse with the Indians
they had contracted very fearful ideas of
the danger of our enterpr'se, which aug-
mented as the time of our departure drew
near, and had not hesitated to express their
dislike to the journey in strong terms
amongst the Canadians, who are accustomed
to pay much deference to the opinions of
an interpreter. But this was not all ; I had
reason to suspect they had endeavoured to
damp the exertions of the Indians, with the
hope that the want of provision in the spring
would put an end to our progress at once.
St. Germain, in particular, had behaved in
a very equivocal way, since his journey to
Slave Lake. He denied the principal parts
of the charge in a very dogged manner, but
acknowledged he had told the leader that

60

JOURNKY TO THE SHORES

we bad not paid him the attention which a
chief hke him ought to have received; and
that we had put a great affront on him in
sending him only a small quantity of rum.
An artful man like St. Germain, possessing
a flow of language, and capable of saying
even what be confessed, had the means of
poisoning the minds of the Indians without
committing himself by any direct assertion ;
and it is to be remarked, that unless Mr.
Wentzel had possessed a knowledge of the
Copper Indian language, we should not have
learned what we did.

Although perfectly convinced of his base-
ness, I could not dispense with his services ;
and had no other resource but to give him
a serious admonition, and desire him to re-
turn to his duty, after endeavouring to '
work upon his fears by an assurance that I
would certainly convey him to England for
trial, if the Expedition should be stopped
through his fault ; to which he replied, ** It
is immaterial to me where I lose my life,
whether in England or in accompanying you

OF THE POLAR SEA.

61

to the sea, for the whole party will perish."
After this discussion, however, he was more
circumspect in his conduct.

On the 28th we received a small supply
of meat from the Indian lodges. They had
now moved into a lake, about twelve miles
from us, in expectation of the deer coming
soon to the northward.

On the 29th Akaitcho arrived at the
house, having been sent for to make some
arrangements respecting tlie procuring of
provision, and that we might learn what his
sentiments were with regard to accompany-
ing us on our future journey. Next morn-
ing we had a conference, which I com-
menced by showing him the charts and
drawings that were prepared to be sent to
England, and "Explaining fully our future
intentions. He appeared much pleased
at this mark of attention, and when his cu-
riosity was satisfied, began his speech by
saying, that " although a vast number of
idle rumours had been floating about the
barren grounds during the wintev," he was
convinced that the representations made to

62

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

him at Fort Providence regarding the pur-
port of the Expedition were perfectly cor-
rect. I next pointed out to him the neces-
sity of our proceeding with as little delay as
possible during the short period of the year
that was fit for our operations, and that to
do so it was requisite we should have a
large supply of provisions at starting. He
instantly admitted the force of these obser-
vations, and promised that he and his young
men should do their utmost to comply with
our desires; and afterwards, in answer to
my questions, informed us that he would
accompany the Expedition to the mouth of
the Copper-Mine River, or if we did not
meet with Esquimaux there, for some dis-
tance along the coast ; he was anxious, he
said, to have an amicable interview with
that people ; and he further requested, that
in the event of our meeting with Dog-ribs
on the Copper-Mine River, we should use
our influence to persuade them to live on
friendly terms with his tribe. We were
highly pleased to find his sentiments so fa-
vourable to our views, and after making

OF THE POLAR SEA.

63

some minor arrangements, we parted, mutu-
ally content. He left us on the morning of
the 31st, accompanied by Augustus, who,
at his request, went to reside for a few
days at his lodge.

On the 4th of April our men arrived
with the last supply of goods from Fort
Providence, the fruits of Mr. Back's ar-
duous journey to the Athabasca Lake ; and
on the 17th Belanger le gros and Belanger
le rouge^ for so our men discriminated them,
set out for Slave Lake, with a box contain-
ing the journals of the officers, charts, draw-
ings, observations, and letters addressed to
the Secretary of State for Colonial Affairs.
They also conveyed a letter for Governor
Williams, in which I requested that he
would', if possible, send a schooner to Wa-
ger Bay with provisions and clothing, to
meet the exigencies of the party, should
they succeed in reaching that part of the
coast.

Connoyer, who was much tormented with
biliary calculi, and had done little or no
duty all the winter, was discharged at the

()(•

JOUHNKY TO TllK SlIOUKS

same tinu% an<l sent down in company with
an Indian named the Belly.

The eonnnencement of A])ril was fine,
and for several days a eonsiderabh* thaw
took phice in the lieat of the sun, which
laying bare some of the hchens on the sides
of tlie hills, produced a conse(pu^nt move-
ment of the rein-deer to the northward,
and induced the Indians to believe that the
sprir,g was already commencinjif. Many of
ihx ;r«> herefore, (juitted the woods, and set
tlu r si\ '>v'»s on the barren groimds near
Fort Enterprise. Two or three days of
cold weather, however, towards the middle
of the month, damped their hopes, and they
began to say that another moon must elapse
before the arrival of the wished-for season.
In the mean time their premature departure
from the woods caused them to suffer from
want of food, and we were in some degree
involved in their distress. We received no
supplies from the hunters, our nets produced
but very few fish, and the pounded meat,
which w^c had intended to keep for summer
use, was nearly expended. Our meals at this

OF THE polah sea.

0,11

period were always scanty, and we were
occasionally restricted to one in the day.

The Indian families ab% iit the house,
consisting principally of women and chil-
dren, suffered most. I had oflen requested
them to move to Akaitcho's lodge, where
they were more certain of receiving sup-
plies ; but as most of them were sick or
infirm, they did not like to quit the house,
where they daily received medicines from
Dr. Richardson, to encounter the fatigue
of following the movements of a hunting
camp. They cleared away the snow on
the site of the autumn encampments 'o luok
for bones, deer's feet, bits of hide, and
other offal. When we beheld them gnaw-
ing the pieces of hide, and pou. Jing the
bones for the purpose of extracting some
nourishment from them by boiling, we re-
gretted our inability to relieve them, but
little thought that we should ourselves be
afterwards driven to the necessity of eagerly
collecting these same bones a second time
from the dunghill.

At this time, to divert the attention of

VOL. III. i"

66

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the men from their wants, we encouraged
the practice of shding down the steep bank
of the river upon sledges. These vehicles
descended the snowy bank with much velo-
city, and ran a great distance upon the ice.
Tlie officers joined in the sport, and the
numerous overturns we experienced formed
no small share of the amusement of the
party; but on one occasion, when I had
oeen thrown from my seat and almost bu-
ried in the snow, a fat Indian woman drove
her sledge over me, and sprained my knee
severely.

On the 18th, at eight in the evening, a
beautiful halo appeared round the sun when
it was about 8° high. The colours were
prismatic and very bright, the red next the
sun.

On the 21st the ice in the river was mea-
sured and found to be live feet thick, and
in setting the nets in Round Rock Lake, it
was there ascertained to be six feet and a
half thick, the water being six fathoms
deep. The stomachs of some fish were at
this time opened by Dr. Richardson, and

OF THE rOLAR SEA,

G7

found filled with insects, which appear to
exist in abundance under the ice during the
winter.

On the 22d a moose-deer was killed at
the distance of forty-five miles ; St. Ger-
main went for it with a dog-sledge, and
returned with unusual expedition on the
morning of the third day. This supply
was soon exhausted, and we passed the
27th without eating, with the prospect of
fasting a day or two longer, when old Kes-
karrah entered with the unexpected intel-
ligence of having killed a deer. It was
divided betwixt our own family and the In-
dians, and during the night a seasonable
supply arrived from Akaitcho. Augustus
returned with the men who brought it, much
pleased with the attention he had received
from the Indians during his visit to Akait-
cho.

Next day Mr. Wentzel set out with every
man that we could spare from the fort, for
the purpose of bringing meat from the In-
dians as fast as it could be procured. Dr.
Richardson followed them two days after-

F 2

08

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

)f

I

I

wards, to collect specimens of the rocks in
that part of the country. On the same day
the two Belangers arrived from Fort Pro-
vidence, having been only five days on the
march from thence.

The highest temperature in April was
-f 40°, the lowest — 32°, the mean -f 4°.6.
The temperature of the rapid, examined on
the 30th by Messrs. Back and Hood, was
32° at the surface, 33° at the bottom.

On the 7th of May, Dr. Richardson re-
turned. He informed me that the rein-
deer were again advancing to the north-
ward, but that the leader had been joined
by several families of old people, and that
the daily consumption of provision at the
Indian tents was consequently great. This
information excited apprehensions of being
very scantily provided when the period of
our departure should arrive.

The weather in the beginning of May
was fine and warm. On the 2nd some
patches of sandy ground near the house
were cleared of snow. On the 7th the sides
of the hills began to appear bare, and on

\

OF THE POLAR SEAi

69

)cks in

me day

•t Pro-

on the

ril was
+ 4^6.
ined on
od, was
1.

[son re-

le rein-

north-

joined

ind that

at the

This

f being

riod of

)f May
some
house
ne sides
and on

the 8th a large house-fly was seen. This in-
teresting event spread cheerfulness through
our residence, and formed a topic of con-
versation for the rest of the day.

On the 9th the approach of spring was
still more agreeably confirmed by the ap-
pearance of a merganser and two gulls, and
some loons, or arctic divers, at the rapid.
This day, to redure the labour of dragging
meat to the house, the women and children
and all the men, except four, were sent to
live at the Indian tents.

The blue-berries, crow-berries, eye-ber-
ries, and cran-berries, which had been
covered, and protected by the snow during
the winter, might at this time be gathered
in abundance, and proved indeed a valuable
resource. The ground continued frozen,
but the heat of the sun had a visible effect
on vegetation ; the sap thawed in the pine-
trees, and Dr. Richardson informed me
that the mosses were beginning to shoot,
and the calyptrae of some of the junger-
manniae already visible.

On the 11th Mr. Wentzel returned from

0

70

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the Indian lodges, having made the neces-
sary arrangements with Akaitcho for the
drying of meat for smifimer use, the bring-
ing fresh meat to the fort, and the procuring
a sufficient quantity of the resin of the
spruce fir, or as it is termed by the voyagers
gum, for repairing the canoes previous to
starting, and during the voyage. By my
desire, he had promised payment to the
Indian women who should bring in any of
the latter article, and had sent several of
our own men to the woods to search for it.
At this time I communicated to Mr. Wentzel
the mode in which I meant to conduct the
journey of the approaching summer. Upon
our arrival at the sea, I proposed to reduce
the party to what would be sufficient to
man two canoes, in order to lessen the con-
sumption of provisions during our voyage,
or journey along the coast; and as Mr.
Wentzel had expressed a desire of proceed-
ing no farther than the mouth of 'he Cop-
per-Mine River, which was seconded by
the Indians, who wished him to return with
them, I readily relieved his anxiety on this

OF THE POLAii SEA.

71

neces-
br the
bring-
)curing
of the
)yager8
ious to
By my
to the
any of
eral of
I for it.
Ventzel
uct the
Upon
reduce
ient to
he con-
iroyage,
as Mr.
roceed-
e Cop-
led by
rn with
on this

subject ; the more so as I thought he might
render greater service to us by making
deposits of provision at certain points, than
by accompanying us through a country
which was unknown to him, and amongst a
people with whom he was totally unac-
quainted. My intentions were explained to
him in detail, but they were of course to be
modified by circumstances.

On the 14th a robin (turdus migratorius)
appeared ; this bird is hailed by the natives
as the infallible precursor of warm weather.
Ducks and geese were also seen in num-
bers, and the rein-deer advanced to the
northward. The merganser (inergus ser-
rator), which preys upon small fish, was the
first of the duck tribe that appeared ; next
came the teal {anas crecca\ which lives
upon small insects that abound in the waters
at this season; and lastly the goose, which
feeds upon berries and herbage. Geese
appear at Cumberland House, in latitude
54°, usually about the 12th of April; at
Fort Chipewyan, in latitude 59°, on the
2 5 til of April ; at Slave Lake, in latitude

72

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

I -i

5

61°, on the 1st of May; and at Fort Enter-
prise, in latitude 64° 28', on the l^th or
14th of the same month.

On the 16th a minor chief amongst the
Copper Indians, attended by his son, ar-
rived from Fort Providence to consult Dr.
Richardson. He was affected with snow-
blindness, which was soon reheved by the
dropping of a little laudanum into his eyes
twice a-day. Most of our own men had
been lately troubled viith this complaint,
but it always yielded in twenty or thirty
hours to the same remedy.

On the 21st all our men returned from
the Indians, and Akaitchc was on his way
to the fort. In the afternoon two of his
young men arrived to announce his visit,
and to request that he might be received
with a salute and other marks of respect
that he had been accustomed to on visiting
Fort Providence in the spring. I complied
with his desire, although I regretted tlie
expenditure of ammunition, and sent the
young men away with the customary pre-
sent of powder to enable him to return the

OF THE POLAR SEA.

73

Enter-
•^th or

gst the
on, ar-
ult Dr.
snow-
by the
lis eyes
en had
nplaint,
r thirty

id from
his way
of his
is visit,
eceived
respect
visiting
implied
ted the
ent the
iry pre-
lum the

salute, some tobacco, vermihon to paint
their faces, a comb and a looking-glass.

At eleven Akaitcho arrived ; at the first
notice of his appearance the flag was hoisted
at the fort, and, upon his nearer approach,
a number of muskets were fired by a party
of our people, and returned by his young
men. Akaitcho, preceded by his standard-
bearer, led the party, and advanced with a
slow and stately step to the door, where
Mr. Wentzel and I received him. The
faces of the party were daubed with vermi-
lion, the old men having a spot on the right
cheek, the young ones on the left. Akaitcho
himself was not painted. On entering he
sat down on a chest, the rest placed them-
selves in a circle on the floor. The pipe
was passed once or twice round, and in the
mean time a bowl of spirits and water, and
a present, considerable for our circum-
stances, of cloth, blankets, capots, shirts,
&c. was placed on the floor for the chief's
acceptance, and distribution amongsi: his
people. Akaitcho then commenced his
speech, but I regret to say, that it was very

74

JOURNEY TO THE SHOHLS

P

discouraging, and indicated th?)t he liad
parted with his good humour, at lennt sir/.e
his March visit. He first inquired, whether,
in the event of a passage by sea being dis-
covered, we should come to his lands in any
ship that might be sent? And being-
answered that it was probable, but not
quite certain, that some one amongst us
might come, he expressed a hope that some
suitable present should be forwarded to
himself and nation : '* for," said he, " the
great chief who commands where all the
goods come from, must see from the draw-
ings and descriptions of us and our country
that we are a miserable people." I assured
him that he would be remembered, provided
he faithfully fulfilled his engagement with
us.

He next complained of the non-payment
of my notes by Mr. Weeks, from which he
apprehended that ^ °«^ own reward would be
withheld. ** If," .1 he, ** your notes to
such a trifling amount are not accepted
whilst you are within such a short distance,
and can hold communication with the fort.

'j

OF IHE POLAR SEA.

iO

it is not probable that the large rew'jf^]^
which has been promised to myself and
party, will be paid when you are far distant,
on your way to your own country. It really
appears to me," he continued, ** as if both
the Companies consider your party as a
third company, hostile to their interests,
and that neither of them will pay the notes
you give to the Indians."

Afterwards, in the course of a long con-
ference, he enumerated many other grounds
of dissatisfaction ; the principal of which
were our want of attention to him as chief,
the weakness of the rum formerly sent to
him, the smallness of the present now
offered, and the want of the chief's clothing,
which he had been accustomed to receive
at Fort Providence every spring. He con-
cluded, by refusing to receive the goods
now laid before him.

In reply to these complaints it was stated
that Mr. Weeks's conduct could not be
properly discussed at such a distance from
his fort ; that no dependence ought to be
placed on the vague reports that floated

76

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

through the Indian territory; that, for our
part, although we had heard many stories
to his (Akaitcho's) disadvantage, we dis-
credited them all; that the rum we had
sent him, being what the great men in Eng-
land were accustomed to drink, was of a
milder kind, but, in fact, stronger than what
he had been accustomed to receive ; and
that the distance we had come, and the
speed with which we travelled, precluded
us from bringing large quantities of goods
like the traders ; that this had been fully
explained to him when he agreed to accom-
pany us ; and that, in consideration of his
not receiving his usual spring outfit, his
debts to the Company had been cancelled,
and a present, much greater than any he
had ever received before, ordered to be got
ready for his return. He was further
informed, that we were much disappointed
in not receiving any dried meat from him,
an article indispensable for our summer
voyage, and which, he had led us to believe,
there was no difficulty in procuring ; and
thpt, in fact, his complaints were so ground-

OF THE POLAR SEA.

77

less, in comparison with the real injury we
sustained from the want of supplies, that
we were led to believe they wer ; preferred
solely for the purpose of cloaking his own
want of attention to the terms of his engage-
ment. He then shifted his ground, and
stated, that if we endeavoured to make a
voyage along the sea-coast we should in-
evitably perish ; and he advised us strongly
against persisting in the attempt. This part
of his harangue being an exact transcript of
the sentiments formerly expressed by our
interpreters, induced us to conclude that
they had prompted his present line of con-
duct, by telling him that we had goods or
rum concealed. He afterwards received a
portion of our dinner in the manner he had
been accustomed to do, and seemed inclined
to make up matters with us in the course
of the evening, provided we added to the
present offered to him. Being told, how-
ever, that this was impossible, since we had
already offered him all the rum we had, and
every article of goods we could spare from
our own equipment, his obstinacy was a

78

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

little shaken, and he made some concessions,
but deferred giving a final answer until the
arrival of Humpy, his elder brother. The
young men, however, did not choose to
wait so long, and at night came for the rum,
which we judged to be a great step towards
a reconciliation.

St. Germain, the most intelligent of our
two interpreters, and the one who had most
influence with the Indians, being informed
that their defection was, in a great measure,
attributed to the unguarded conversations
he had held with them, and which he had
in part acknowledged, exerted himself
much on the following day in bringing about
a change in their sentiments, and with some
success. The young men, though they
declined hunting, conducted themselves with
the same good humour and freedom as for-
merly. Akaitcho being, as he said, ashamed
to show himself, kept close in his tent all
day.

On the 24th one of the women, who
accompanied us from Athabasca, was sent
down to Fort Providence, under charge of

OF THE POLAR SEA.

79

sessions,
until the
r. The
loose to
the rum,
, towards

It of our
had most
informed
measure,
versations
:h he had
\ himself
ing about
with some
)ugh they
jelves with
om as for-
i, ashamed
IS tent all

men, who
was sent
• charge of

the old chief, who came some days before
for medicine for his eyes. Angelique and
Roulante, the other two women, having
families, preferred accompanying the Indians
durinff their summer hunt. On the 25th
clothing, and otlicr necessary articles, were
issued to the Canadians as their equipment
for the ensuing voyage. Two or three
blankets, some cloth, iron work, and trin-
kets were reserved for distribution amongst
the Esquimaux on the sea-coast. Laced
dresses were given to Augustas and Junius.
It is impossible to describe the joy that took
possession of the latter on the receipt of
this present. The happy little fellow burst
into extatic laughter, as he surveyed the
different articles of his gay habiliments.*
In the afternoon Humpy, the leader's

* These men kept their dresses, and delighted in
them. An Indian chief, on the other hand, only
appears once before *he donor in the dress of ceremony
which he receives, and then transfers it to some
favourite in the tribe whom he desires to reward by this
" robe of honour."

80

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

elder brother ; Annoethai-yazzeh, another
of his brothers; and one of our guides,
arrived with the remainder of Akaitcho's
band ; as also Long-legs, brother to the
Hook, with three of his bai^d. There were
now in the encampment, thirty hunters,
thirty-one women, and sixty children, m all
one hundred and twenty-one of the Copper
Indian or Red-Knife tribe. The rest of
the nation were with the Hook on the lower
part of the Copper-Mine River.

Annoethai-yazzeh is remarkable amongst
the Indians for the number of his descend-
ants ; he has eighteen children living by
two wives, of whom sixteen were at the fort
at this time.

In the evening we had another formidable
conference. The former complaints were
reiterated, and we parted about midnight,
without any satisfactory answer to my
questions, as to when Akaitcho would pro-
ceed towards the river, and vshere he meant
to make provision for our march. I was
somewhat pleased, however, to find, that

OF THE POLAR SEA.

81

Humpy and Annojthai-yazzeh censured
their brother's conduct, and accused him of
avarice.

On the 26th the canoes were removed
from the places where they had been de-
posited, as we judged that the heat of the
atmosphere was now so great, as to admit
of their being repaired, without risk of
cracking the bark. We were rejoiced to
find that two of them had suffered little in-
jury from the frost during the winter. The
bark of the third was considerably rent, but
it was still capable of repair.

The Indians sat in conference in their
tents all the morning; and, in the after-
noon, came into the house charged with
fresh matter for discussion.

Soon after they had seated themselves,
and the room was filled with the customary
volume of smoke from their calumets, the
goods which had been laid aside were again
presented to the leader ; but he at once re-
fused to distribute so small a quantity
amongst his men, and complained that there
were neither blankets, kettles, nor daggers,

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82

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

amongst them ; and in the warmth of his
anger, he charged Mr. Wentzel with having
advised the distribution of all our goods to
the Canadians, and thus defrauding the In-
dians of what was intended for them. Mr.
Wentzel, of course, immediately repelled
this injurious accusation, and reminded
Akaitcho again, that he had been told, on
engaging to accompany us, that he was not
to expect any goods until his return. This
he denied with an effrontery that surprised
us all, when Humpy, who was present at our
first interview at Fort Providence, declared
that he heard us say, that no goods could
be taken for the supply of the Indians on
the voyage ; and the first guide added, *' I
do not expect any thing here, I have pro-
mised to accompany the white people to the
sea, and I will, therefore, go, confidently
relying upon receiving the stipulated re-
ward on my return." Akaitcho did not
seem prepared to hear such declarations
from his brothers, and instantly changing
the subject, began to descant upon the
treatment he had received from the traders

!i

OF THE POLAR SEA.

83

>f his
aving
ids to
t\e In-

Mr.
jpelled
ninded
old, on
vas not

This
Lrprised
it at our
leclared

5s could
ians on
aed, '' I
ive pro-
le to the
ifidently
lated re-
did not
[larations
jhanging
pon the
le traders

in his concerns with them, with an asperity
of language that bore more the appearance
of menace than complaint. I immediately
refused to discuss this topic, as foreign to
our present business, and desired Akaitcho
to recall to memory, that he had told me
on our first meeting, that he considered me
the father of every person attached to the
Expedition, in which character it was surely
my duty to provide for the comfort and
safety of the Canadians as well as the In-
dians. The voyagers, he knew, had a long
journey to perform, and would, in all pro-
bability, be exposed to much suffering from
cold on a coast destitute of wood ; and,
therefore, required a greater provision of
clothing than was necessary for the Indians,
who, by returning immediately from the
mouth of the river, would reach Fort Pro-
vidence in August, and obtain their pro-
mised rewards. Most of the Indians ap-
peared to assent to this argument, but
Akaitcho said, " I perceive the traders
have deceived you ; you should have
brought more goods, but I do not blame

g2

7^

84

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

you." I then told hun, that I had brought
from England only ammunition, tobacco,
and spirits; and that being ignorant what
other articles the Indians required, we were
dependent on the traders for supplies ; but
he must be aware, that every endeavour
had been used on our parts to procure
them, as was evinced by Mr. Back's journey
to Fort Chipewyan. With respect to the
ammunition and tobacco, we had been as
much disappointed as themselves in not re-
ceiving them, but this was to be attributed
to the neglect of those to whom they had
been intrusted. This explanation seemed
to satisfy him. After some minutes of
reflection, his coimtenance became more
cheerful, and he made inquiry, whether his
party might go to either of the trading
posts they chose on their return, and whe-
ther the Hudson's Bay Company were rich,
for they had been represented to him as a
poor people? I answered him, that we
really knew nothing about the weialth of
either Company, having never concerned
ourselves with trade, but that all the traders

OF THE POLAR SEA.

85

appeared to us to be respectable. Our
thoughts., I added, are fixed solely on the
accomplishment of the objects for which
we came to the country. Our success de-
pends much on your furnishing us with
provisions speedily, that v:e may have all
the summer to work ; and if we succeed, a
ship will soon bring goods in abundance to
the mouth of the Copper-Mine River. The
Indians talked together for a short time
after this conversation, and then the leader
made an application for two or three kettles
and some blankets, to be added to the pre-
sent to his young men ; we were unable to
spare him any kettles, but the officers pro-
mised to give a blanket each from their own
beds.

Dinner was now brought in, and relieved
us for a time from their importunity. The
leading men, as usual, received each a por-
tion from the table. When the conversa-
tion was resumed the chief renewed his so-
licitations for goods, but it was now top
palpable to be mistaken, that he aimed at
getting every thing he possibly could, and

86

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

leaving us without the means of making any
presents to the Esquimaux or other In-
dians we might meet. I resolved, therefore,
on steadily refusing every request; and
when he perceived that he could extort
nothing more, he rose in an angry manner,
and addressing his young men, said : " There
are too few goods for me to distribute;
those that mean to follow the white people
to the sea may take them."

This was an incautious speech, as it ren-
dered it necessary for his party to display
their sentiments. The guides, and most of
the hunters, declared their readiness to go,
and came forward to receive a portion of
the present, which was no inconsiderable
assortment. This relieved a weight of
anxiety from my mind, and I did not much
regard the leader's retiring in a very dis-
satisfied mood.

The hunters then applied to Mr. Went-
zel for ammunition, that they might hunt in
the morning, and it was cheerfully given to
them.

The officers and men amused themselves

OF THE POLAR SEA.

87

at prison-bars, and other Canadian games,
till two o'clock in the morning, and we were
happy to observe the Indians sitting in
groups enjoying the sport. We were de-
sirous of filling up the leisure moments of
the Canadians with amusements, not only
for the purpose of enlivening their spirits,
but also to prevent them from conversing
upon our differences with the Indians, which
.they must have observed. The exercise
was also in a peculiar manner serviceable to
Mr. Hood. Ever ardent in his pursuits,
he had, through close attention tc his draw-
ings and other avocations, confined himself
too much to the house in winter, and his
health was impaired by his sedentary habits.
I could only tike the part of a spectator in
these amusements, being still lame from the
hurt formerly alluded to.

The sun now sank for so short a time
below the horizon, that there was more
light at midnight, than we enjoyed on some
days at noon in the winter time.
• On the 27th the hunters brought in two
rein-deer. Many of the Indians attended

««T>.»w-->1n^^

dd

JOURNEY TO THE SHOKES

U

divine service this day, and were attentive
spectators of our addresses to the Al-
mighty.

On the 28th I had a conversation with
Long-legs, whose arrival two days before
has been mentioned. I acquainted him
with the objects of our expedition, and our
desire of promoting peace between his nation
and the Esquimaux, and learned from him
that his brother the Hook was by this time
on the Copper- Mine River with his party;
and that although he had but little ammu-
nition, yet it was possible he might have
some provision collected before our arrival
at his tents. I then decorated him with
medals similar to those given to the other
chiefs. He was highly pleased with this
mark of our regard, and promised to do
every thing for us in his power. Akaitcho
came in during the latter part of our con-
versation, with a very cheerful countenance.
Jealousy of the Hook, and a knowledge
that the sentiments of the young men dif»
fered from his own, with respect to the re-
cent discussions, had combined to produce

Iv

.1- - ■

-.'Itltt^t ^f*^.'

OF THE POLAR SEA.

89

tliK change in his conduct, and next morn-
ing he took an opportunity of telling me
that I must not think the worse of him for
his importunities. It was their custom^ he
said, to do so, however strange it might
appear to us, and he, as the leader of his
party, had to beg for them all; but as he
saw we had not deceived him by concealing
any of our goods, and that we really had
nothing left, he should ask for no more.
He then told me that he would set out for
the river as soon as the state of the country
admitted of travelling. The snow, he re-
marked, was still too deep for sledges to
the northward, and the moss too wet to
make fires. He was seconded in this opi-
nion by Long-legs, whom I was the more
inclined to believe, knowing that he was
anxious to rejoin his family as soon as pos-
sible.

Akaitcho now accepted the dress he had
formerly refused, and next day clothed him^
self in another new suit, which he had re-
ceived from us in the autumn. Ever since
his arrival at the fort, he had dressed

90

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

! I

meanly, and pleaded poverty; but per-
ceiving that nothing more could be gained
by such conduct, he thought proper to show
some of his riches to the strangers who
were daily arriving. In the afternoon,
however, he made another, though a covert
attack upon us. He informed me that two
old men had just arrived at the encamp-
ment with a little pounded meat which they
wished to barter. It was evident that his
intention was merely to discover whether
we had any goods remaining or not. I told
him that we had nothing at present to give
for meat, however much we stood in need
of it, but that we would pay for it by notes
on the North- West Company, in any kind
of goods they pleased. After much artful
circumlocution, and repeated assurances of
the necessities of the men who owned the
meat, he introduced them, and they readily
agreed to give us the provision on our own
terms.

I have deemed it my duty to give the
details of these tedious conversations, to
point out to future travellers, the art with

OF THE POLAR SEA.

91

which these Indians pursue their objects,
their avaricious nature, and the little reliance
that can be placed upon them, when their
interests jar with their promises. In these
respects they agree with other tribes of
northern Indians ; but as has been already
mentioned, their dispositions are not cruel,
and their hearts are readily moved by the
cry of distress.

The average temperature for May was
nearly 32°, the greatest heat was 68°, the
lowest 8°.

We had constant daylight at the end of
the month, and geese and ducks were abun-
dant, indeed rather too much so, for our
hunters were apt to waste upon them the
ammunition that was given to them for kil-
ling deer. Uncertain as to the length of
time that it might be required to last, we
did not deem a goose of equal value with
the charge it cost to procure it.

Dr. Richardson and Mr. Back having
visited the country to the northward of the
Slave Rock, and reported that they thought
we might travel over it, I signified my in-

92

jouhney to the shores

!

tention of sending the first party off on
Monday the 4th of June. I was anxious to
get the Indians to move on before, but they
lingered about the house, evidently with the
intention of picking up such articles as we
might deem unnecessary to take. When
Akaitcho was made acquainted with my
purpose of sending away a party of men, he
came to inform me that he would appoint
two hunters to accompany them, and at the
same time requested that Dr. Richardson,
or as he called him, the Medicine Chief,
might be sent with his own band. These
Indians set a great value upon medicine,
and made many demands upon Dr. Richard-
son on the prospect of his departure. He
had to make up little packets of the diffe-
rent articles in his chest, not only for the
leader but for each of the minor chiefs, who
carefully placed them in their medicine
bags, noting in their memories the directions
he gave for their use. The readiness with
which their requests for medical assistance
were complied with, was considered by them
as a strong mark of our good intentions

4

■ ■•.-w-3

^ T-r

IRES

party off on
ras anxious to
fore, but they
ently with the
articles as we

take. When
ited with my
rty of men, he
vould appoint
jm, and at the
r. Richardson,
edicine Chief,
band. These
pon medicine,
1 Dr. Richard-
sparture. He
:s of the diffe-
t only for the
lor chiefs, who
heir medicine
; the directions
readiness with
Lical assistance
idered by them
ood intentions

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OF THE POLAR SEA.

93

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towards them; and the leader often re-
marked, that thev owed much to our kind-
ness in that respect ; that formerly numbers
had died every year, but that not a life had
been lost since our arrival amongst them.
In the present instance, however, the leader's
request could not be complied with. Dr.
Richardson had volunteered to conduct the
first party to the Copper-Mine River, whilst
the rest of the officers remained with me to
the last moment, to complete our astrono-
mical observations at the house. He, there-
fore, informed the leader that he would re-
main stationary at Point Lake until the ar-
rival of the whole party, where he might be
easily consulted if any of his people fell
sick, as it was in the neighbourhood of their
hunting-grounds.

On the 2d the stores were packed up in
proper-sized bales for the journey, I had
intended to send the canoes by the first
party, but they were not yet repaired, the
weather not being sufficiently warm for the
tnen to work constantly at them, without
the hazard of breaking the bark. This

94

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

I

day one of the new trading guns, which we
had recently received from Fort Chipew-
yan, burst in the hands of a young Indian,
fortunately, however, without doing him
'any material injury. This was the sixth ac-
cident of the kind which had occurred since
our departure from Slave Lake. Surely
this deficiency in the quality of the guns,
which hazards the lives of so many poor
Indians, requires the serious consideration
of the principals of the trading Compa-
nies.

On the 4th, dt three in the morning, the
party under the charge of Dr. Richardson "
started. It consisted of fifteen voyagers,
three of them conducting dog sledges, Bald-
head and Basil, two Indian hunters with
their wives, Akaiyazzeh, a sick Indian and
his wife, together with Angelique and Rou-
lante f so that the pa^'ty amounted to twenty-
three exclusive of children.

The burdens of the men were about
eighty pounds each, exclusive of their per-
sonal baggage, which amounted' to nearly
as much more. Most of them dragged

OF THE POLAR SEA.

95

J!

their loads upon sledges, but a few preferred
carrying them on their backs. They set
off in high spirits.

After breakfast the Indians struck their
tents, and the women, the boys, and the old
men who had to drag sledges, took their
departure. It was three P.M., however,
before Akaitcho and the hunters left us.
We issued thirty balls to the leader, and
twenty to each of the hunters and guides,
with a proportionate quantity of powder,
and gave them directions to make all the
provision they could on their way to Point
Lake. I then desired Mr. Wentzel to in-
form Akaitcho, in the presence of *he other
Indians, that I wished a deposit of provi-
sion to be made at this place previous to
next September, as a resource should we re-
turn this way. He and the guides not only
promised to see this done, but suggested
that it would be more secure if placed
in the cellar, or in Mr. Wentzel's room.
The Dog-ribs, they said, would respect any
thing that was in the house, as knowing it
to belong to the white people. At the close

90 JOIJRNKY TO TIIK nilOUIH

of ihlf* ronvevBfttlon Akiiiti'lu) <»xolfliin(»(l
with n suiile, •• I «ou now tluit you have
roally no ^oodn \v\\t (tho rootns and MtorcR
hoing con»pU»tely stripped,) and thni»fbrt» I
Ahall not tronhU> you any nioiis hut uno my
boHt ondoavo\irH to prepare proviHion for
you, and I think if the animals are tolerably
numerous, we ttiay ^ot [)lenty before you
can embark on the river."

Whilst the Indians were packing up this
morning, one of the w omen absconded. She
belongs to the J)og-rib tribe, and had b(»en
taken by force fVoni her relations by her
present husband, who treated her very
harshly. The fellow was in. my room when
his mother announced the departure of his
wife, and received the intelligence with
great composure, as well as the seasonable
reproof of Akaitcho. ** You are rightly
served," said the chief to him, " and will
now have to carry all your things yourself,
instead of having a wife to drag them."
One hunter remained after the departure
of the other Indians.

On the 5 th the Dog-rib woman presented

xclftinu»<l
^o\i l»ive
nil stores
»or«fori» I
111 mv my
vinion Tor
tolerably
clbie yoii

n^ »ip tlu«
uU'd. She
i had breii
MIS hy hor
her very
^iK)m when
ure of Ins
ence with
Heasonable
ire rightly
" ami will
5s youraelf,
ag them."
departure

presented

01 T!fK I'OLAri SKA, f)7

heiHcir on n hill nt Noirie (HMtnnce ironi tfic
houpte, hnt was ufVaid (o approach nH, u&ail
the interpreter went tnid tohl her that nei-
ther we nor the Indinn who remained with
ns, wonhl prevent 'ler from going where-
hIic ph'^Hi'd. Upon lliifl she came to HoHeit
a fire-Hfeel and ketth*. She was nt firHt
l.)w-Hpirited, from the non-arrival of a conn-
try-woman who had promised to eloj)e with
her, hnt Iwid probably been too narrowly
watched. The Inditin hnnter, however,
having given her some directionH aH to the
proper mode of joining her own tribe, hIh;
became more e(mij)OHe(l, and nltimately
agreed to aflopt IiIh advice of proceeding
at once to Fort Providence, instead of wan-
dering abont the conntry all the Hnrnmer in
search of them, nl the imminent hazard of
being starved.

On the 7 til the wind, shifting to the
sonthward, dispersed the elonds which had
obscnred the sky for several days, and pro-
duced a change of temperature under which
the snow rapidly disappeared. 'J'he ther-
mometer rose to Tii'^, many flies came forth,

VOL. III. H

t

I

98

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

musquitoes shoived themselves for the first
time, and one swallow made its appearance.
We were the more gratified with these in-
dications of summer, that St. Germain was
enabled to commence the repair of the ca-
noes, and before night had completed the
two which had received the least injury.
Augustus killed two deer to-day.

On the 10th the dip of the magnetic
needle being observed, showed a decrease
of 22' 44" since last autumn. The repairs
of the third canoe were finished this even-
ing.

The snow was now confined to the bases
of the hills, and our Indian hunter told us
the season was early. The operations of
nature, however, seemed to us very tardy.
We were eager to be gone, and dreaded
the lapse of summer, before the Indians
would allow it had begun.

On the 11th the geese and ducks had
left the vicinity of Fort Enterprise, and
proceeded to the northward. Some young
ravens and whiskey-johns made their ap-
pearance at this time.

«lteH..

OF THE POLAR SEA.

99

On the 12th Winter River was nearly
cleared of ice, and on the 13 th the men re-
turned, having left Dr. Richardson on the
borders of Point Lake. Dr. Richardson
informed me by letter that the snow was
deeper in many parts near his encampment
than it had been at any time last winter
near Fort Enterprise, and that the ice on
Point Lake had scarcely begun to decay.
Although the voyagers were much fatigued
on their arrival, and had eaten nothing
for the last twenty-four hours, they were
very cheerful, and expressed a desire to
start with the remainder of the stores next
morning. The Dog-rib woman, who had
lingered about the house since the 6th of
June, took alarm at the approach of our
men, thinking, perhaps, that they were ac-
compa lied by Indians, and ran off. She
was now provided with a hatchet, kettle,
and fire-steel, and would probably go at
once to Fort Providence, in the expectation
of meeting with some of her countrymen
before the end of summer.

H 2

i

1

M

100

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

CHAPTER X *

Departure from Fort Enterprise — Navigation of the
C(ypper-Mine River — Visit to the Copper Mountain
— Interview with the Esquimaux — Dejyarture of the
Indian Hunters — Arrangements made with them for
our Return.

June 14, 1821. — The trains for the canoes
having been finished during the night, the
party attached to them commenced their
journey at ten this morning. Each canoe
was dragged by four men assisted by two
dogs. They took the route of Winter Lake,
with the intention of following, although
more circuitous, the water-course as far as

* It will be seen hereafter that I had the misfor-
tune to lose my portfolio containing my journals
from Fort Enterprise to the 1 4th of September. But
the loss has been amply redeemed by my brother offi-
cers' journals, from which the narrative up to that
period has been chiefly compiled.

- y

OF THE POLAR SEA.

101

practicable, it being safer for the canoes
than travelling over land. After their de-
parture, the remaining stores, the instru-
ments, and our small stock of dried meat,
amounting only to eighty pounds, were dis-
tributed equally among Hepburn, three
Canadians, and the two Esquimaux ; with
this party and two Indian Imnters, we quit-
ted Fort Enterprise, most sincerely rejoicing
that the long-wished-for day had arrived,
when we were to proceed towards the final
object of the Expedition.

We left in one of the rooms a box, con-
taining a journal of the occurrences up to
this date, the charts and some drawings,
which was to be conveyed to Fort Chipew-
yan by Mr. Wentzel, on his return from
the sea, and thence to be sent to England.
The room was blocked up, and, by the ad-
vice of Mr. Wentzel, a drawing represent-
ing a man holding a dagger in a threatening
attitude, was affixed to the door, to deter
any Indians from breaking it open. We
directed our course towards the Dog-rib
Rock, but as our companions were loaded

i\

'mMmr'^'Tfii'Z'Crm

ftjii.fci lawN*

'■sm

102

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

I

with the weight of near one hundred and
eighty pounds each, we of necessity pro-
ceeded at a slow pace. The day was ex-
tremely warm, and the musquitoes, whose
attacks had hitherto been feeble, issued
forth in swarms from the marshes, and
were very tormenting. Having walked five
miles we encamped near a small cluster of
pines about two miles from the Dog-rib
Rock. The canoe party had not been seen
since they set out. Our hunters went for-
ward to Marten Lake, intending to wait for
us at a place where two deer were depo-
sited. At nine P.M. the temperature of
the air was 63^,

We resumed our march at an early hour,
and crossed several lakes which lay in our
course, as the ice enabled the men to drag
their burdens on trains formed of sticks
and deers* horns, with more ease than they
could carry them on their backs. We were
kept constantly wet by this operation, as
the ice had broken near the shores of the
lakes, but this was little regarded as the
day was unusually warm, the temperature

i

OF THE POLAR SEA.

103

d and
y pro-
as ex-

whose
issued
i, and
ed five
iter of
og-rib
n seen
It for-
^ait for
depo-
ure of

' hour,
in our
o drag
sticks
,n they
e were
ion, as
of the
as the
jrature

at two P.M. being 82j°. At Marten Lake
we joined the canoe party, and encamped
with them. We had the mortification of
learning from our hunters that the meat
they had put en cache here, had been de-
stroyed by the wolverenes, and we had in
consequence to furnish the supper from
our scanty stock of dried meat. The wind
changed from S.E. to N.E. in the evening,
and the wer^her became very cold, the ther-
mometer being at 43° at nine P.M. The
few dwarf birches we could collect afforded
fire insufficient to keep us warm, and we
retired under the covering of our blankets
as soon as the supper had been despatched.
The N.E. breeze rendered the night so ex-
tremely cold, that we procured but little
sleep, having neither fire nor shelter ; for
though we carried our tents, we had been
forced to leave the tent-poles, which we
could not now replace ; we therefore gladly
recommenced the journey at five in the
morning, and travelled through the remain-
ing part of the lake on the ice. Its surface
being quite smooth, the canoes were dragged

"«r«MM

"mf^ff

*

^ *

It

KM

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

along expeditiously by the dogs, and the
rest of the party had to walk very quick to
keep pace with them, which occasioned
many severe falls. By the time we had
readied the end of the lake, tlie wind had
increased to a perfect gale, and the at-
mosphere was so cold that we could not
proceed further with the canoes without the
risk of breaking the bark, and seriously in-
juring them ; we therefore crossed Wiiiter
River in them, .md put up in a well-sheltered
place on a ridge of sand hills ; but as the
stock of provision was scanty, we deter-
mined on proceeding as quick as possible^
and leaving the canoe party vmder the charge
of Mr. Wentzel. We parted from them in
the afternoon, and first directed our course
towards a range of hills, where we expected
to find Antonio Fontano, who had separated
from us in the morning. In crossing to-
wards these hills I fell through the ice into
the lake, with my bundle on my shoulders,
but was soon extricated without any injury;
and Mr. Back, who left us to go in search
of the straggler, met with a similar accident

OF THE POLAR SEA.

105

Hid tlie
luick to
asioncd
v\'e had
ind had
the at-
ild not
out the
isly in-
Wiiiter
leltered
as the
deter-
bssible,
charge
them in
course
tpected
parated
ing to-
ice into
adders,
injury;
search
[jcident

iih

in the evening. We put up on a ridge of
sand liills, where we found some pines, and
made a hirge (ire to apprize Mr. Back and
Fontano of our position. St. Germain liav-
ing killed a deer in the afternoon, we re-
ceived an acceptable supply of meat. The
night was stormy and very cold.

At five the next morning, our men were
sent in different directions after our absent
companions ; but as the weather was foggy,
we despaired of finding them, unless they
should chance to hear the muskets our peo-
ple were desired to fire. They returned,
however, at ten, bringing intelligence of
them. I went immediately with Hepburn
to join Mr. Back, and directed Mr. Hood
to proceed with the Canadians, and halt
with them at the spot where the hunters
had killed a deer. Though Mr. Back was
much fatigued, he set off with me imme-
diately, and in the evening we rejoined our
friends on the borders of the Big Lake.
The Indians informed us that Fontano only
remained a few hours with them, and then
continued his journey. We had to oppose

J

Mii

lOG

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

li

a violent gale and frequent snow-storms
through the day, which unseasonable wea-
ther caused the temperature to descend be-
low the freezing point this evening. The
situation of our encampment being bleak,
and our fuel stunted green willows, we
passed a very cold and uncomfortable
night.

June 18. — Though the breeze was mode-
rate this morning, the air was piercingly
keen. When on the point of starting, we
perceived Mr. Wentzel's party coming, and
awaited his arrival to learn whether the
canoes had received any injury during the
severe weather of yesterday. Finding they
had not, we proceeded to get upon the ice
on the lake, which could not be effected
without walking up to the waist in water,
for some distance from its borders. We
had not the command of our feet in this si-
tuation, and the men fell often ; poor Junius
broke through the ice with, his hieavy bur-
den on his back, but fortunately was not
hurt.

This lake is extensive, and large arms

OF THE POLAR SEA.

107

branch from its main course in different
directions. At these parts we crossed the
projecting points of land, and on each occa-
sion had to wade as before, which so
wearied every one, that we rejoiced when
we reached its north side and encamped,
though our resting-place was a bare rock.
We had the happiness of finding Fontano at
this place. The poor fellow had passed the
three preceding days wiChout tasting food,
and was exhausted by anxiety and hunger.
His sufferings were considered to have been
a sufficient punishment for his imprudent
conduct in separating from us, and I only -
admonished him to be more cautious in
future.

Having received information that the
hunters had killed a deer, we sent three
men to fetch the meat, which was distri-
buted between our party and the canoe-men
who had been encamped near to us. The
thermometer at three P.M. was 46°, at nine
34°.

We commenced the following day by
crossing a lake about four miles in length,

108

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

\1

and then passed over a succession of rugged
hills for nearly the same distance. The
men, being anxious to reach some pine-trees,
which they had seen on their former journey,
walked a quick pace, though they were suf-
fering from swelled legs and rheumatic
pains ; we could not, however, attain the
desired point, and therefore encamped on
the declivity of a hill, which sheltered us
from the wind ; and used the rein-deer
moss for fuel, which afforded us more
warmth than we expected. Several patches
of snow were yet remaining on the sur-
rounding hills. The thermometer varied
to-day between 55° and 45°.

On the 20th of June we began our march
by crossing a small lake, not without much
risk, as the surface of the ice was covered
with water to the depth of two feet, and
there were many holes into which we
slipped in spite of our efforts to avoid
them. A few of the men, being fearful of
attempting the traverse with their heavy
loads, walked round the eastern end of the
lake. The parties met on the sandy ridge,

OF THE POLAR SEA.

109

which separates the streams that fall into
Winter Lake from those that flow to the
northward ; and here we killed three deer.
Near the base of this ridge we crossed a
small but rapid stream, in which there is a
remarkable cascade of about fifty feet.
Some Indians joined us here, and gave
information respecting the situation of Dr.
Richardson's tent, which our hunters consi-
dered w^as sufficient for our guidance, and
therefore proceeded as quickly as they
could. We marched a few miles further in
the evening, and encamped among some
pines ; but the comfort of a good fire did
not compensate for the torment we suffered
from the host of musquitoes at this spot.
The temperature was 52°.

We set oft^ next morning at a very early
hour. The men took the course of Point
Lake, that they might use their sledges, but
the officers pursued the nearest route by
land to Dr. Richardson's tent, which we
reached at eleven A.M. It w^as on the
western side of an arm of the lake, and near
the part through which the Copper-Mine

no

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

i. '..

i)

i\

River runs. Our men arrived soon after
us, and in the evening Mr. Wentzel and
his party, with the canoes in excellent con-
dition. They were much jaded by their
fatiguing journey, and several were lame
from swellings of the lower extremities.
The ice on the lake was still six or seven
feet thick, and there was no appearance of
its decay except near the edges ; and as it
was evident that, by remaining here until it
should be removed, we might lose every
prospect of success in our undertaking, I
determined on dragging our stores along its
surface, until we should come to a part of
the river where we could embark; and
directions were given this evening for each
n. m to prepare a train for the conveyance
of his portion of the stores. I may remark
here, as a proof of the strong effect of radi-
ation from the earth in melting the ice, that
the largest holes in the ice were always
formed at the base of the high and steep
cliffs, which abound on the borders of this
lake.

We found Akaitcho and the hunters

OF THE POLAR SEA.

Ill

encamped here, but their families, and the
rest of the tribe, had gone off two days
before to the Beth-see-to, a large lake to
the northward, where they intended passing
the summer. Long-legs and Keskarrah
had departed, to desire the Hook to collect
as much meat as he could against our arrival
at his lodge. We were extremely distressed
to learn from Dr. Richardson, that Akaitcho
and his party had expended all the ammu-
nition they had received at Fort Enterprise,
without having contributed any supply of
provision. The Doctor had, however,
through the assistance of two hunters he
kept with him, prepared two hundred
pounds of dried meat, which was now our
sole dependance for the journey. On the
following morning I represented to Akaitcho
that we had been greatly disappointed by
his conduct, which was so opposite ^ the
promise of exertion he had made, on quitting
Fort Enterprise. He offered many excuses,
but finding they were not satisfactory,
admitted that the greater part of the ammu-
nition had been given to those who accom-

l ':

112

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

panied the women to the Beth-see-to, and
promised to behave better in future. I
then told him, that I intended in future to
give them ammunition only in proportion to
the meat which was brought in, and that we
should commence upon that plan by sup-
plying him with fifteen balls, and each of
the hunters with ten. ^

The number of our hunters was now
reduced to five, as two of the most active
declined going any further, their father, who
thought himself dying, having solicited them
to remain and close his eyes. These five
were furnished with ammunition, and sent
forward to hunt on the south border of the
lake, with directions to place any meat
they might procure near the edge of the
lake, and set up marks to guide us to the
spots. Akaitcho, his brother, the guide,
and three other men, remained to accom-
pany us. We were much surprised to per-
ceive an extraordinary difference in climate
in so short an advance to the northward as
fifty miles. The snow here was lying in
large patches on the hills. ' The dwarf-

OF THE POLAR SEA,

113

birch and willows were only just beginning
to open their buds, which had burst forth at
Fort Enterprise many days before our
departure. Vegetation seemed to be three
weeks or a month later here than at that
place. We had heavy showers of rain
through the night of the 22d, which melted
the snow, and visibly wasted the ice.

On the 23d the men were busily employed
in making their trains, and in pounding the.
meat for pemmican. The situation of the
encampment was ascertained, latitude 65°
12' 40" N., longitude 113° 8' 25" W., and
the variation 43° 4' 20" E. The arrange-
ments being completed, we purposed com-
mencing our journey next morning, but the
weather was too stormy to venture upon
the lake with the canoes. In the afternoon
a heavy fall of snow took place, succeeded
by sleet and rain. The north-east gale
continued, but the thermometer rose to 39°.

June 25, — The wind having abated in the
night, we prepared for starting at an early
hour. The three canoes were mounted on
sledges, and nine men were appointed to

VOL. III. I

\;

*»...,.•-

114

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

conduct them, having the assistance of two
dogs to each canoe. The stores and pro-
visions were distributed equally among the
rest of our men, except a few small articles
which the Indians carried. The provision
consisted of only two bags of pemmican,
two of pounded meat, five of suet, and two
small bundles of dried provision, together
with fresh meat sufficient for our supper at
night. It was gratifying to witness the
readiness with which the men prepared for
and commenced a journey, which threatened
to be so very laborious, as each of them
had to drag upwards of one hundred and
eighty pounds on his sledge.

Our course led down the main channel of
the lake, which varied in breadth from half
a mile to three miles ; but we proceeded at
a slow pace, as the snow, which fell last
night, and still lay on the ice, very much
impeded the sledges. Many extensive arms
branched off on the north side of this chan-
nel, and it was bounded on the south by a
chain of lofty islands. The hills on both
sides rose to six or seven hundred feet, and

t-^

of two
id pro-
ong the
articles
rovision
nmican,
md two
ogether
ipper at
ess the
ared for
•eatened
jf them
red and

annel of
rom half
eeded at
fell last
ry much
ive arms
lis chan-
ith by a
on both
feet, and

c-^:

AS.

m--

&^.

,«>w

.^'

■iyM

' JS

/

iZ^

(}

• '» ' ''■*! the assistance of t" •

k7.*iLini: X', oiatiihnied equdly au^ntj the

,res( oi iTion, <.^xcept '" >mll article^
vthicli tho Indiana cajried. 1 iie provi.vi:>n
♦?yns»stt»<l of only \ ' {s of rHmir'.an,
U\f ^ vvmdod mwif, five of si :id ti"'''

lii* wjucii lik. aieii prfrp^ired for
and con\inenced a joiiniey, whicli threatened
to h\ so very iaborioiis, as each of tht^ivi
h.ad to drag upv\ards oi one hundred and
oi^^bty pounds on his sledgi,

ih\^ course led do- n Hir- mam channel oi

It he k\k'\ t^hkh vu-

'*)'1»!

1,

■'.teii i.)t

* ry much

tj(n|>eded the siedge: M a ity extensive arnj.--
branched off on fh€^ north side of this ch;jn-
iie.j c.r.«i .; ,- a.s >oanded on the, south by a
chain of l'^^-;- islands. 'Vhv liJIs oi> bo •
'^■:^'' ;;>sfe iQ isix or m^'eii hui^" '. ?V-' ,-.\>:^

!i

of t\v<^

in licbi? '

ind two

•ther

et at

the

I for

tutened

4 tbeiti

red anfl

annt'l ol

2'

oi> boil

fe.ff- and

I

J ^

I

OF THE POLAR SEA.

115

high steep cliffs were numerous. Clusters
of pines were occasionally seen in the val-
lies. We put up, at eight P.M., in a spot
which afforded us hut a few twigs for fuel.
The party was much fatigued, and several
of the men were affected by an inflamma-
tion on the inside of the thigh, attended
with hardness and swelling. The distance
made to-day was six miles.

We started at ten next morning. The
day was extremely hot, and the men were
soon jaded ; their lameness increased very
much, and some not previously affected
began to complain. The dogs too showed
symptoms of great weakness, and one of
them stretched himself obstinately on the
ice, and was obliged to be released from
the harness. We were, therefore, com-
pelled to encamp at an early hour, hav-
ing come only four miles. The sufferings
of the people in this early stage of our
journey were truly discouraging to them,
and very distressing to us, whose situation
was comparatively easy. I, therefore, de-
termined on leaving the third canoe, which

i2

1 1

116

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

i

had been principally carried to provide
against any accident to the others. We
should thus gain three men, to lighten the
loads of those who were most lame, and an
additional dog for each of the other canoes.
It was accordingly properly secured on a
stage erected for the purpose near the en-
campment. Dried meat was issued for
supper, but in the course of the evening the
Indians killed two deer, for which we im-
mediately sent.

The channel of the lake through which
we had passed to-day was bounded on both
sides by islands of considerable height, pre-
senting bold and rugged scenery. We were
informed by our guide, that a large body of
the lako lies to the northward of a long
island which we passed.

Another deer was killed next morning,
but as the men breakfasted olf it before
they started, the additional weight was not
materially felt. The burdens of the men
being considerably lightened by the arrange-
ments of last evening, the party walked at
the rate of one mile and three quarters an

OF THE POLAR SEA.

117

if-

hour until the afternoon, when our pace
was slackened, as the ice was more rough,
and our lame companions felt their sores
very galling. At noon we passed a deep
bay on the south side, which is said to receive
a river. Throughout the day's march the
hills on each side of the lake bore a strong
resemblance, in height and form, to those
about Fort Enterprise. We encamped on
the north main shore, among some spruce
trees, having walked eight miles and a half.
Three or four fish were caught with lines
through holes, which the water had worn
in the ice. We perceived a light westerly
current at these place.

It rained heavily during the night, and
this was succeeded by a dense fog on the
morning of the 28th. Being short of pro-
visions we commenced our journey, though
the points of land were not discernible be-
yond a short distance. The surface of the
ice, being honeycombed by the recent rains,
presented innumerable sharp points, which
tore our shoes and lacerated the feet at

118

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

every step. The poor dogs, too, marked
their path with their blood.

In the evening the atmosphere became
clear, and, at five P.M., we reached the
rapid by which Point Lake communicates
with Red-Rock Lake. This rapid is only
one hundred yards wide, and we were much
disappointed at finding the Copper-Mine
River such an inconsiderable stream. The
canoes descended the rapid, but the cargoes
were carried across the peninsula, and
placed again on the sledges, as the next
lake was still frozen. We passed an ex-
tensive arm, branching to the eastward, and
encamped just below it, on the western
bank, among spruce pines, having walked
six miles of direct distance. The rolled
stones on the beach are principally red clay
slate, hence its Indian appellation, which \ e
have retained.

We continued our journey at the usual
hour next morning. At noon the variation
was observed to be 47° east. Our atten-
tion was afterwards directed to some pine

OF THE POLAR SEA.

119

branches, scattered on the ice, which proved
to be marks placed by our hunters, to guide
us to the spot where they had deposited the
carcasses of two small deer. This supply
was very seasonable, and the men cheerfully
dragged the additional weight. Akaitcho,
judging from the appearance of the meat,
thought it had been placed here three days
ago, and that the hunters were considerably
in advance. We put up at six P.M., near
the end of the lake, having come twelve
miles and three quarters, and found the
channel open by which it is connected with
the Rock-nest Lake. A river was pointed
out, bearing south from our encampment,
which is said to rist lear Great Marten
Lake. Red-Rock Lake is in general nar-
row, its shelving banks are well clothed
with wood, and even the hills, which attain
an elevation of four hundred or five hun-
dred feet, are ornamented half way up with
stunted pines.

On June 30, the men, having gummed
the canoes, embarked with their burdens to
descend the river ; but we accompanied the

U6

JOURNEY TO THE SHOllES

Indians about five miles across a neck of
land, when we also embarked. The river
was about two hundred yards wide, and its
course being uninterrupted, we cherished a
sanguine hope of now getting on more
speedily, until we perceived that the waters
of Rock-nest Lake were still bound by ice,
and that recourse must again be had to the
sledges. The ice was much decayed, and
the party were exposed to great risk of
breaking through in making the traverse.
In one part wo had to cross an open chan-
nel in the canoes, and in another were com-
pelled to quit the lake, and make a portage
along the land. When the party had got
upon the ice again, our guide evinced much
Uncertainty as to the route. He first di-
rected us towards the west end of the lake ;
but when we had nearly gained that point,
he discovered a remarkable rock to the
north-east, named by the Indians the Rock-
nest, and then recollected that the river ran
at its base. Our course was immediately
changed to that direction, but the traverse
we had then to make was more dangerous

OF THE POLAR SEA.

121

than the former one. The ice cracked
under us at every step, and the party were
obliged to separate widely to prevent acci-
dents. We landed at the first point we
could approach, but having found an open
channel close to the shore, were obliged to
ferry the goods across on pieces of ice. The
fresh meat being expended, we had to make
another inroad on our pounded meat. The
evening was very warm, and the musquitoes
numerous. A large fire was made to
apprize the hunters of our advance. The
scenery of Rock-nest Lake is picturesque ;
its shores are rather low, except at the
Rock's-nest, and two or three eminences on
the eastern side. The only wood is the
pine, which is twenty or thirty feet high,
and about one foot in diameter. Our dis-
tance to-day was six miles.

Julij 1. — Our guide directed us to pro-
ceed towards a deep bay on the north side of
the lake, where he supposed we should find
the river. In consequence of the bad state
of the ice, we employed all the different
modes of travelling we had previously fol-

122

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

fi i

lowed in attaining this place ; and, in cross-
ing a point of land, had the misfortune to
lose one of the dogs, which set off in pur-
suit of some rein-deer. Arriving at the
bay, we only found a stream that fell into
it from the north-east, and looked in vain
for the Copper-Mine River. This circum-
stance confused the guide, and he confessed
that he was now doubtful of the proper
route ; we, therefore, halted, and despatched
him, with two men, to look for the river
from the top of the high hills near the
Rock-nest. During this delay a slight
injury was repaired, which one of the canoes
had received. We were here amused by
the sight of a wolf chasing two rein-deer on
the ice. The pursuer being alarmed at the
sight of our men, ^ave up the chase when
near to the hindmost, much to our regret,
for we calculated upon the chance of shar-
ing in his capture.

At foui P.M. our men returned, with
the agreeable information that they had
seen the river flowing at the base of the
Rock-nest. The canoes and stores were

OF THE POLAR SEA.

123

immediately placed on the ice, and dragged
thither ; we then embarked, but soon had
to cut through a barrier of drift ice that
blocked up the way. We afterwards de--
scended two strong rapids, and encamped
near the discharge of a small stream which
flows from an adjoining lake. The Copper-
Mine River, at this point, is -^bout two
hundred yards wide and ten feet deep, and
flows very rapidly over a rocky bottom.
The scenery of its banks is picturesque, the
hills shelve to the water side, and are well
covered with wood, and the surface of the
rocks is richly ornamented with lichens.
The Indians say that the same kind of
country prevails as far as Mackenzie's
River in this parallel ; but that the land to
the eastward is perfectly barren. Akaitcho
and one of the Indians killed two deer,
which were immediately sent for. Two of
the hunters arrived in the night, and we
learned that their companions, instead of
being in advance, as we supposed, were
staying at the place where we first foimd
the river open. They "had only seen our

* I

I

li

lU

JOUUNKY TO TlIK 8II0REM

h

ii

(

fires last rvoning, nnd had sent to examino
who wo wore. The oircnvriHtance of having
passed them was very vexatious, as th(»y
had three deer en cachcy at their encamp-
ment. However, an Indian was sent to
desire those wlio remained to join us, and
bring tlie meat.

We embarked at nine A.M. on 2d July,
and descended a succession of strong rapids
for three miles. We were carried along
with extraordinary rapidity, shooting over
large stones, upon which a single stroke
would have been destructive to the canoes ;
and we were also in danger of breaking
them, from the want of the long poles which
lie along their bottoms and equalize their
cargoes, as they plunged very much, and on
one occasion the first canoe was almost
filled with the waves. But there was no
receding after we had once launched into
the stream, and our safety depended on the
skill and dexterity of the bowmen and
steersmen. The banks of the river here
are rocky, and the scenery beautiful ,* con-
sisting of gentle elevations and dales wooded

OF THE POLAR SEA.

125

to tlic vd^j^e of tlic stream, and flanked on
botli sides, at the distance of three or lour
mih's, by a ranj^e of round-backed barren
hills, upwards of six hundred feet high. At
the foot of the rapids the high lands recede
to a greater distance, and the river flows
with a more gentle current, in a wider
cliannel, through a level and open country
consisting of alluvial sand. In one place
the passage was blocked up by drift ice,
still deeply covered with snow. A channel
for the canoes was made for some distance
with the hatchets and poles ; but on reach-
ing the more compact pact, we were under
the necessity of transporting the canoes and
cargoes across it ; an operation of much
hazard, as the snow concealed the numerous
holes which the water had made in the ice.
This expansion of the river being mistaken
by the guide for a lake, which he spoke of
as the last on our route to the sea, we sup-
posed that we should have no more ice to
cross, and therefore encamped after passing
through it, to fit the canoes properly for
the voyage, and to provide poles, which are

i

120

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

/f

l\

■: I

not only necessary to strengthen them when
placed in the hottoni, but essentially requi-
site for the safe management of them in
dangerous rapids. The guide began after-
wards to doubt wliether the lake he meant
was not furtlier on, and he was sent with
two men to examine into the fact, who re-
turned in the evening with the information
of its being below us, but that there was an
open channel through it. This day was
very sultry, and several plants appeared in
flower.

The m*en were employed in repairing
their canoes to a late hour, and commenced
very early next morning, as we were desi-
rous of availing ourselves of every part of
this favourable weather. The hunters ar-
rived in the course of the night. It ap-
peared that the dog which escaped from us
two days ago came into the vicinity of their
encampment, howling piteously ; seeing him
without his harness, they came to the hasty
conclusion that our whole party had perished
in a rapid ; and throwing away part of their
baggage, and leaving the meat behind them,

OF THE POLAR SEA.

127

they set off with the utmost haste to join
Lon^-legs. Our messenger mot them in
their flight, but too far advanced to admit
of their returning for the meat. Akaitcho
scolded them heartily for their thoughtless-
ness in leaving the meat, which we so much
wanted. They expressed their regret, and
being ashamed of their panic, proposed to
remedy the evil as much as possible by
going forward, without stopping, until they
came to a favourable spot for hunting, which
they expected to do about thirty or forty
miles below our present encampment.
Akaitcho accompanied them, but previous
to setting off he renewed his charge that
we should be »n our guard against the
bears, which was occasioned by the hunters
having fired at one this morning as they
were descending a rapid in their canoe.
As their small canoes would only carry five
persons, two of the hunters had to walk in
turns along the banks.

In our rambles round the Encampment,
we witnessed with pleasure the progress

iT»l Wlil—».i»l I

) f

128

JOUKNEY TO THE SHORES

which vegetation had made within the few
last warm days ; most of the trees had put
forth their leaves, and several flowers orna-
mented the moss- covered ground ; many of
the smaller summer birds were observed in
the wools, and a variety of ducks, gulls,
and plovers, sported on the banks of the
river. It is about three hundred yards
wide at this part, is deep, and flows over a
bed of alluvial sand. Wc caught some
trout of considerable size with our lines,
and V few white fish m the nets, which
maintained us, with a little assistance from
the pemmican. The repair of our canoes
was completed this evening. Before em-
barking I issued an order that no rapid
should in future be descended until the
bowman had examined it, and decided upon
its being safe to run. Wherever the least
danger was to be apprehended, or the crew
had to disembark for the purpose of lighten-
ing the canoe, the ammunition, guns, and
instruments, were always to be put out and
carried along the bank, that we n^ight be

< I

OF THE POLAR SEA.

129

the few
had put
trs orna-
niany of
ierved in
:s, gulls,
:s of the
;d yards
^s over a
rht some
mr lines,
ts, which
ince from
ir canoes
jfore em-
no rapid
until the
ded upon

the least
• the crew
)flighten-
guns, and
It out and

loight be

provided with the means of subsisting our-
selves, in case of any accident befalling the
canoes.

The situation of our encampment was
ascertained to be 65° 43' 28" N., longitude
114° 26' 45" W., and the variation 42° 17'
22" E.

At four in the morning of July 4th we
embarked, and descended a succession of
very agitated rapids, but took the precau-
tion of landing the articles mentioned yes-
terday, wherever there appeared any hazard ;
notwithstanding all our precautions, the
leading canoe struck with great force against
a stone, and the bark was split, but this
injury was easily repaired, and we regretted
only the loss of time. At eleven we came
to an expansion of the river where the
current ran with less force, and an accumu-
lation of drift ice had, in consequence,
baired the channel; over this the canoes
and cargoes were carried. The ice in many
places adhered to the banks, and projected
in wide ledges several feet thick over the
stream, which had hollowed them out be-

f J

.\i

VOL. III.

K

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.usswn\f,\ t»i tMw «nott>,n

\\pts\\\. On tM^<^ ovt*rtNlinK rt« flu* |uth|»Uk wpw

t*\u^^l witht^wi 1^M'tl\t^v ilrtutrtgt* timn rt m\\\\\\\
\\\\\\k\\\^, m\\\ \\\v t'rtnm* l\>v«nhrth'ly [ts\\\\

i't^wns *if \vhu*U Wswv wvw \\\\\ ^vown. All
\\\^ iwvty Nwvt^ i\>\i\uMlirth*iy ilt^nprttolunl U\
\m\\^ \\\ \\m R«*rtmM\rtl>W At)|>|>ly» A yt>uh^
<M\Vv ivvi!rth*<(! hy th«* fhing of tlio hui\i!?v»»

w<? xvM\ wrt!k^»\^ rtt rt »hon iliHtrtiioi^ fVr>iii

1 (^\-i>i<U^il it» (\\vy by jitmjMnji rtsi^k m\<l
getting \\\\i>\\ m ctt^vatcd piece of gio\inil.

♦ Mr titfr VnlMi NWA«

1.11

\\\v tcftiM, MtHJ if iriitk fM fli^fiii

'rilf iHMflk MUCH, llkl* tilt* ImiHIiIm^ IU'NI
fO(|rMlU'» U\ IuMhIm, Hhll ^f^tHMttlly fVf»^jH^ttf

ihv hfMt»'n tl'^^<<f**^'< «l<(flMfj5 till* nuhwwt
numilH, lici'plti^ inmr {\w fivpf«i JMtf i^f^Hh*
fn tho WHtu1« iti wjhfr«fi T\wy »pf*tn fn be
t(>F(<< wnlclthi) lliMit tttMNt fidM't- wild ntiUmUf

}»m1, wltnlt y;frtJ?*ih^, «!'♦* MMf (lllfll'tHi (o

«|»pn»Mrh, )ii*()viilf^il Hif« lMifitpri>i j^o tt^winsl
tlu* wind? wliph i*vo Mf ihrep trit*ri ^i^t «»
iir»rtt rt Im'iiI n« tn flfi" «l tlit*tfi ffottt ilifl^rf»»t
poihtR, (ItpRo iHiittmlni iitntf^ml of Mt^imfHlirif^
Of ruiitiin^ ttwity, Imdtllp ^dri^er frigpllu*f,
mu\ MfvtMrtl rirr* m^tiprttlly killed \ lint irtli(«
\v»)uiul is )»Mt itiortfti tlipy lim*iimp pnf«^**d<
niul ilritt in tlif* tnnftt hiHcnis nt«mif»f ni i\w
hnntrrw, wim tiin«t Iir vt*ry dentprmn* to
0vrtd»» tluMn. 1'ln*y tmti defend tfietn«elve«
hy tlioii* jiowetHd liorn« flgnlniot the wfdve«
nnd hrni'M, which, hm the ttidiann May^ they
not tintV(»f|nenlly kill.

't'ho nniwk oxen feed on the «mne nnh-
«tftnfe« with the rein -deer, mid the prints of
the feet of these two miinmlfi are no mmh

K H

' I*

m

i

132

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

alike, that it requires th eye of an expe-
rienced hunter to distinguish them. The
largest killed by us did not exceed in weight
three hundred pounds. The flesh has a
musky disagreeable flavour, particularly
when the animal is lean, which, unfortu-
nately for us, was the case with all that we
now killed.

During this day's march the ri ; ;r varied
in breadth from one hundred to two hundred
feet, and except in two open spaces, a very
strong current mr^ked a deep descent the
whole way. It fit* 's over a bed of gravel,
of which also its immediate banks are com-
posed. Near to our encampment it is
bounded by cliffs of fine sand, from one
hundred to two hundred feet high. Sandy
plains extend on a level with the summit of
these cliffs, and at the distance of six or
seven miles are terminated by ranges of
hills eight hundred or one thousand feet
high. The grass on these plains affords
excellent pasturage for the musk oxen, and
they generally abound here. The hunters
added two more to our stock in the course

^

:;i : [

ii

ii

OF THE POLAR SEA.

133

expe-
The

1

veight
has a

1

iularly
ifortu-

•4

lat we

1 1

varied

; .'!■''

indred

1

a very
;nt the

1

gravel,

e coin-

, it is

m one

Sandy
unit of

six or

H

ges of
id feet

1

affords

1

3n, and

1

lunters

fl

course

M

of the night. As we had now more meat
than the party could consume fresh, we
delayed our voyage next day to dry it.
The hunters were supplied with more am-
munition, and sent forward ; but Akaitcho,
his brother, and another Indian, remained
with us.

It may here be proper to mention, that
the officers had treated Akaitcho more dis-
tantly since our departure from Point Lake,
to mark their opinion of his misconduct.
The diligence in hunting, however, which
he had evinced at this place, induced us to
receive him more familiarly when he came
to the tent this evening. During our con-
versation he endeavoured to excite sus-
picions in our minds against the Hook, by
saying, " I am aware that you consider me
the wo'-st man of my nation ; but I know
the Hook to be a great rogue, and I think
he will disappoint you."

On the morning of the 6th we embarked,
and descended a series of rapids, having
twice unloaded the canoes where the water
was shallow. After passing the mouth of

134

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

!

the Fairy* Lake River the rapids ceased.
The main stream was then about three
hundred yards wide, and generally deep,
though, in one part, the channel was inter-
rupted by several sandy banks, and low
alluvial islands, covered with willows. It
flows between banks of sand thinly wooded,
and as we advanced the barren hills ap-
proached the water's edge.

At ten we rejoined our hunters, who had
killed a deer, and halted to breakfast. We
sent them forward ; one of them, who was
walking along the shore, afterwards fired
upon two brown bears, and wounded one
of them, which instantly turned and pursued
him. His companions in the canoes put

* This is an Indian name. The Northern Indian
fairies are six inches high, lead a life similar to the
Indians, and are excellent hunters. Those who have
had the good fortune to fall in with their tiny encamp-
ments have been kindly treated, and regaled on venison.
We did not learn with certainty whether the existence
of these delightful creatures is known from Indian tra-
dition, or whether the Indians owe their knowledge of
them to their intercourse with the traders, but think
the fonner probable.

OF THE POIAR SEA.

13^

ashore to his assistance) but did not succeed
in kilh'ng the bears, which fled upon the
reinforcement coming up. During the delay
thus occasioned we overtook them, and
they continued with us the rest of the day.

We encamped at the fbot of a lofty range
of mountains, which appear to be from
twelve to fifteen hundred feet high ; they
are in general round backed, but the out-
line is not even, being interrupted by
craggy conical eminences. This is the first
ridge of hills we have seen in this country
that deserves the appellation of a mountain
range ; it is probably a continuation of the
Stony Mountains crossed by Hearne. Many
plants appeared in full flower near the
tents, and Dr. Richardson gathered some
high up on the hills. The distance we
made to-day was fifty miles.

There was a hoar frost in the night, and
the temperature, at four next morning, was
40® ; embarking at that hour, we glided
quickly down the stream, and by seven
arrived at the Hook's encampment, which
was placed on the summit of a lofty sand

■ I M w.w» ■ » I I <P w* .-, »..! i» ■■ I ■ r fill Ilia, "I,;,!

136

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

cliff, whose base was washed by the river.
This chief had with him only three hunters,
and a few old men and their families, the
rest of his band having remained at their
snares in Bear Lake. His brother Long-
legs, and our guide, Keskarrah, who had
joined him three days before, had commu-
nicated to him our want of provision, and
•we were happy to find that, departing from
the general practice of Indian chiefs, he
entered at once upon the business, without
making a long speech. As an introductory
mark of our regard, I decorated him with a
medal similar to those which had been
given to the other leaders. The Hook
began by stating, " that he was aware of
our being destitute of provision, and of the
great need we had of an ample stock, to
enable us to execute our undertaking ; and
his regret, that the unusual scarcity of ani-
mals this season, together with the circum-
stance of his having only just received a
supply of ammunition from Fort Providence,
had prevented him from collecting the
quantity of meat he had wished to do for

OF THE POLAR SEA.

137

our use. The amount, indeed," he said,
** is very small, but I will cheerfully give
you what I have ; we are too much indebted
to the white people, to allow them to want
food on our lands, whilst we have any to
give them. Our families can live on fish
until we can procure more meat, but the
season is too short to allow of your delay-
ing, to gain subsistence in that manner."
He immediately desired, aloud, that the
women should bring all the meat they had
to us ; and we soon collected sufficient to
make three bags and a half of pemmican,
besides some dried meat and tongues. We
were truly delighted by this prompt and
cheerful behaviour, and would gladly have
rewarded the kindness of himself and his
companions by some substantial present,
but we were limited by the scantiness of
our store to a small donation of fifteen
charges of ammunition to each of the chiefs.
In return for the provision they accepted
notes on the North- West Company, to be
paid at Fort Providence ; and to these was
subjoined an order for a few articles of

1).

1

*l

iww— !»»-■«■ I m» I tea>a«aaK,

138

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

I

t)

1

clothing, as an additional present. I then
endeavoured to prevail npon the Hook to
remain in this vicinity with his hunters until
the autumn, and to make deposits of provi-
sion in different parts of the course to the
sea, as a resource for our party, in the event
of our being compelled to return by this
route. He required time, however, to con-
sider this matter, and promised to give me
an answer next day. I was rejoiced to find
him then prepared to meet my wish, and
the following plan was agreed upon: — As
the animals abound, at all times, on the
borders of Bear Lake, he promised to
remain on the east side of it until the month
of November, at that spot which is nearest
to the Copper-Mine River, from whence
there is a communication by a chain of lakes
and portages. There the principal deposit
of provision was to be made; but during
the summer the hunters were to be em-
ployed in putting up supplies of dried meat
at convenient distances, not only along the
communication from this river, but also
upon its banks, as far down as the Copper

OF THE POLAR SEA.

139

I then
ook to
s until
provi-
to the
J event
)y this
:o con-
ive me
to find
h, and
: — As
>n the
}ed to
month
learest
i^hence
r lakes
leposit
luring
B em-
Imeat
ig the
t also
opper

Mountain. They were also to place parti-
cular marks to guide our course to their
lodges. We contracted to pay them liberally,
whether we returned by this way or not ; if
we did, they were to accompany us to Fort
Providence to receive the reward ; and, at
any rate, I promised to send the necessary
documents by Mr. Wentzel, from the sea-
coast, to ensure them an ample remunera-
tion. With this arrangement they w^ere per-
fectly satisfied, and we could not be less so,
knowing they had every motive for fulfilling
their promises, as the place they had chosen
to remain at is their usual hunting-ground.
The uncommon anxiety these chiefs ex-
pressed for our safety, appeared to us likely
to prompt them to every care and attention,
and I record their expressions with grati-
tude. After representing the numerous
hardships we should have to encounter in
the strongest manner, though in language
similar to what we had often heard from
our friend Akaitcho, they earnestly entreated
we would be constantly on our guard against
the treachery of the Esquimaux; and no

140

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

I

,1;

less forcibly desired we would not proceed
far along the coast, as they dreaded the
consequences of our being exposed to a
tempestuous sea in canoes, and having to
endure the cold of the autumn on a shore
destitute of fuel. The Hook, having been
an invalid for several years, rejoiced at the
opportunity of consulting Dr. Richardson,
who immediately gave him advice, and sup-
plied him with medicine.

The pounded meat and fat were converted
into pemmican, preparatory to our voyage.

The result of our observations at the
Hook's encampment was latitude 66° 45
11" N., longitude 115° 4>2' 23 " W., varia-
tion of the compass 46° 7' 30" E.

We embarked at eleven to proceed on
our journey. Akaitcho and his brother,
the guide, being in the first canoe, and old
Keskarrah in the other. We wished to dis-
pense with the further attendance of two
guides, and made a proposition that either of
them might remain here, but neither would
relinquish the honour of escorting the Expe-
dition to the sea. One of our hunters, how-

OF THE POLAR SEA.

Ul

ever, was less eager for this distinction, and
preferred remaining with Green Stockings,
Keskarrah's fascinating daughter. The other
four, with the Little Singer, accompanied
us, two of them conducting their small ca-
noes in turns, and the rest walking along
the beach.

The river flows over a bed of sand, and
winds in an uninterrupted channel of from
three-quarters to a mile broad, between
two ranges of hills, which are pretty even
in their outline, and round backed, but hav-
ing rather steep acclivities. The immediate
borders of the stream consist either of high
banks of sand or steep gravel cliffs ; and
sometimes, where the hills recede to a little
distance, the intervening space is occupied
by high sandy ridges.

At three P.M., after passing along the
foot of a high range of hills, we arrived at
the portage leading to Bear Lake, to which
we have previously alluded. Its position
is very remarkable, being at the most wes-
terly part of the Copper-Mine River, and
at the point where it resumes a northern

142

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

%

II >

course, and forces a passage through the
lofty ridge of mountains, to which it has
run parallel for the last thirty miles. As
the Indians travel from hence, with their
families, in three days to the point where
they have proposed staying for us, the dis-
tance, I think, cannot exceed forty miles;
and admitting the course to be due west,
which is the direction the guide pointed, it
would place the eastern part of Bear Lake
in 118|° W. longitude.

Beyond this spot the river is diminished
in breadth and a succession of rapids are
formed; but as the water was deep, we
passed through them without discharging
any part of the cargoes. It still runs be-
tween high ranges of mountains, though its
actual boundaries are banks of mud mixed
with clay, which are clothed with stunted
pines. We picked up a deer which the
hunters had shot, and killed another from
th 3 canoe ; and also received an addition to
our stock of provision of seven young
geese, which the hunter.s had beaten down
with their sticks. Aboui six P.M. we per-

OF THE POLAR SEA.

145

ceived a mark on the shore, which on e?ra-
mination was found to have been recently
put up by some Indians : and, on proceed-
ing further, we discerned stronger proofs of
their vicinity ; we, therefore, encamped,
and made a large fire as a signal, which
they answered in a similar way. Mr.
Wentzel was immediately sent, in expecta-
tion of getting provision from them. On
his return, we learned that the party con-
sisted of three old Copper Indians, with
their families, who had supported them-
selves with the bow and arrow since last
autumn, not having visited Fort Providence
for more than a year ; and so successful
had they been, that they were enabled to
supply us with upwards of seventy pounds
of dried meat, and six moose skins fit for
making shoes, which were the more valuable
as we v/ere apprehensive of being bare-
footed before the journey could be com-
pleted. The evening was sultry, and the
musquitoes appeared in great numbers.
The distance made to-day was twenty-five
miles.

(■I

144

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

I

On tlie following morning we went down
to these Indians, and delivered to them potes
on the North-West Company, for the meat
and skins they had furnished ; and we hud
then the mortification of learning, that not
having people to carry a considerable quan-
tity of pounded meat, which they had in-
tended for us, they had left it upon the
Bear Lake Portage. They promised, how-
ever, to get it conveyed to the banks of this
river before we could return, and we re-
warded them with a present of knives and
files.

Afler re-embarking we continued to de-
scend the river, which was now contracted
between lofty banks to about one hundred
and twenty yards wide ; the current was
very strong. At eleven we came to a
rapid which had been the theme of dis-
course with the Indians for many days, and
which they had described to us as impas-
sable in canoes. The river here descends
for three quarters of a mile in a deep, but
narrow and crooked, channel, which it has
cut through the foot of a hill of five hun-

OF THE POLAR SEA.

145

down

1 potes

2 meat
ive bud
lat not
J quan-
tiad in-
)on the
d, how-
s of this

we re-
ives and

I to de-
,ntracted
hundred
rent was
me to a
of dis-
lays, and
,s impas-
descends
deep, but
ch it has
five hun-

dred or six hundred feet high. It is coir-
fined between perpendicular cliffs, resem-
bling stone walls, varying in height from
eighty to one hundred and fifty feet, on
which lies a mass of fine sand. The body
of the river, pent within this narrow chasm,
dashed furiously round the ^^rojecting rocky
columns, and discharged itself at the northern
extremity in a sheet of foam. The canoes,
after being lightened of part of their cargoes,
ran through this defile without sustaining any
injury. Accurate sketches of this interest-
ing scene were taken by Messrs. Back and
Hood. Soon after passing this rapid, we
perceived the hunters running up the east
side of the river, to prevent us from dis-
turbing a herd of musk oxen, which they
had observed grazing on the opposite bank ;
we put them across and they succeeded in
killing six, upon which we encamped for
the purpose of drying the meat. The
country below the Rocky Defile Rapid
consists of sandy plains, broketi by small
conical eminences also of sand, and bounded
to the westward by a continuation of the

VOL. III. L

146

JOURN£Y TO THE SHORES

V

( (

mountain chain, which we had crossed at
the Bear Lake Portage ; and to the eastward
and northward, at the distance of twelve
miles, by the Copper Mountains, which Mr.
Hearne visited. The plains are crowned by
several clumps of moderately large spruces,
about thirty feet high.

This evening the Indians made a large
fire, as a signal to the Hook's party that we
had passed the terrific rapid in safety.

The position of our encampment was as-
certained to be, latitude 67° 1' 10" N., lon-
gitude 116° 27' 28" W., variation of the
compass 44° 11' 43" E., dip of the needle
87° 31' 18".

Some thunder showers retarded the dry-
ing of the meat, and our embarkation was
delayed till next day. The hunters were
sent forward to hunt at the Copper Moun-
tains, under the superintendence of Adam,
the interpreter, who received strict injunc-
tions not to permit them to make any large
fires, lest they should alarm straggling par-
ties of the Esquimaux.

The musquitoes were now very numerous

OF THE POLAR SEA.

U7

a large
^ that we

ity.

X was as-

N., lon-

n of the

he needle

1 the dry-
:ation was
Iters were
)er Moun-

of Adam,
ict injunc-
; any large

;gling par-

j numerous

and anno3ring, but we consoled ourselves
with the hope that their season would be
short.

On the 11th we started at three A.M.,
and as the guide had represented the river
below our encampment to be full of shoals^
some of the men were directed to walk
along the shore, but they were assailed so
violently by the musquitoes, as to be com-
pelled to embark very sci; and we after-
wards passed over the shallow parts by the
aid of the poles, without experiencing much
interruption. The current ran very rapidly,
having been augmented by the waters of the
Mouse River and several small streams.
We rejoined our hunters at the foot of the
Copper Mountains, and found they had
killed three musk oxen. This circumstance
determined us on encamping to dry the
meat, as there was wood at the spot. We
availed ourselves of this delay to visit the
Copper Mountains in search of specimens
of the ore, agreeably to my Instructions ;
and a party of twenty-one persons, consist-
ing of the officers, some of the voyagers,

L 2

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148

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

and all the Indians, set off on that excur-
sion. We travelled for nine hours over a
considerable space of ground, but found
only a few small pieces of native copper.
The range we ascended was on the west
side of the river, extending W.N.W. and
E.S.E. The mountains varied in height
from twelve to fifleen hundred feet. The
uniformity of the mountains is interrupted
by narrow valleys, traversed by small
streams. The best specimens of metal we
procured were among the stones in these
valleys, and it was in such situations that
our guides desired us to search most care-
fully. It would appear, that when the In-
dians see any sparry substance projecting
above the surface, they dig there ; but they
have no other rule to direct them, and have
never found the metal in its original reposi-
tory. Our guides reported that they had
found copper in large pieces in every part
of this range, for two days' walk to the
north-west, and that the Esquimaux come
hither to search for it. The annual visits
which the Copper Indians were accustomed

OF THE POLAR SEA.

UO

to make to these mountains, when most of
their weapons and utensils were made of
copper, have been discontinued since they
have been enabled to obtain a supply of ice
chisels and other instruments of iron by the
establishment of trading posts near their
hunting grounds. That none of those who
accompanied us had visited them for many
years was evident, from their ignorance of
the spots most abundant in metal.

The impracticability of navigating the
river upwards from the sea, and the want of
wood for forming an establishment, would
prove insuperable objections to rendering
the collection of copper at this part worthy
of mercantile speculation.

We had the opportunity of surveying the
country from several elevated positions.
Two or three small lakes only were visible,
still partly frozen ; and much snow re-
mained on the mountains. The trees were
reduced to a scanty fringe on the borders
of the river, and every side was beset by
naked mountains.

The day was unusually warm, and, there-

I

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150

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

fore, favourable for drying the meat. Our
whole stock of provision, calculated for pre-
servation, was sufficient for fourteen days,
without any diminution of the ordinary al-
lowance of three pounds to each man per
day. The situation af our tents was 67^
10' 30" h., longitude 116° 25' 45" W.

Jith ■ a,' The Indians knowing the course
of the iiyet velow this point to be only a
succession of rapids declined taking their
canoes any further ; but as I conceived one
of them would be required, should we be
compelled to walk along the coast, two of
our men were appointed to conduct it.

As we were now entering the confines of
the Esquimaux country, our guides recom-
mended us to be cautious in Ughting fires,
lest we should discover ourselves, addii^
that the same reason would lead them to
travel as much as possible in the valleys,
and to avoid crossing the tops of die bills.
We embarked at six A.M., taking with us^
mly old Keskarrah. The other Indians
walked along the banks of the river.^
Throughout this day's voyage the current

OF THE POLAR 8EA.

151

was very strong, running four or five miles
an hour; but the navigation was tolerable,
and we had to lighten the canoes only once,
in a contracted part of the river where the
waves were very high. The river is in
many places confined between perpendicu-
lar walls of rock to one hundred and fifly
yards in width, and there the rapids were
most agitated. Large masses of ice, twelve
or fourteen feet thick, were still adhf Ing
to many parts of the bank, indicating tlr
tardy departure of winter from this ii»hos-
pi table land, but the earth around them was
rich with vegetation. In the evening two
musk oxen being seen on the beacn were
pursued and killed by our men. Whilst we
were waiting to embark the meat, the In-
dians rejoined us, and reported they had
been attacked by a bear, which sprung upon
them whilst they were conversing together.
His attack was so sudden that they had not
time to level their guns properly, and they
all niiissed except Akaitcho, who, less con-**
fused than the rest, took deliberate aim,
and shot the animal dead. They do not eat

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152

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

ii 1

the flesh of the bear, but, knowing that we
had no such prejudices, they brought us
some of the choice pieces, which upon trial
we found to be excellent meat.

The Indians having informed us that we
wer^ now within twelve miles of the rapid
where the Esquimaux have invariably been
found, we pitched our tents on the beach,
under the shelter of a high hill, whose pre-
cipitous side is washed by the river, intend-
ing to send forward some persons to deter-
mine the situation of their present abode.
Some vestiges of an old Esquimaux en-
caippment were observed near the tents,
and the stumps of the trees bore marks of
the stone hatchets they use. A strict watch
was appointed, consisting of an officer, four
Canadians, and an Indian, and directions
were given for the rest of the party to sleep
with their arms by their side. That as little
delay as possible might be experienced in
opening a communication with the Esqui-
maux, we immediately commenced arrange-
ments for sending forward persons to dis-
cover whether there were any in our vicinity*

r

OF THE POLAR SEA.

153

Akaitcho and the guides proposed that twD
of the hunters should be despatched on this
service, who had extremely quick sight, and
were accustomed to act as scouts, an ofHce
which requires equal caution and circum-
spection. A strong objection, however, lay
against this plan, in the probability of their
being discovered by a straggling hunter,
which would be destructive to every hope
of accommodation. It was therefore de-
termined to send Augustus and Junius, who
were very desirous to undertake the ser-
vice. These adventurous men proposed to
go armed only with pistols concealed in
their dress, and furnished with beads, look-
ing glasses, and other articles, that they
might conciliate their countrymen by pre-
sents. We could not divest our minds of
the apprehension, that it might be a service
of much hazard, if the Esquimaux were as
hostile to strangers as the Copper Indians
have invariably represented Uiem to be;
and we felt great reluctance in exposing our
two little interpreters, who had rendered
themselves dear to the whole party, to the

III

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154

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

most distant chance of receiving injury ; but
this course of proceeding appeared in their
opinion and our own to offer the only
chance of gaining an interview. Though
not insensible to the danger, they cheerfully
prepared for their mission, and clothed
themselves in Esquimaux dresses, which
had been made for the purpose at Fort En-
terprise. Augustus was desired to make
his presents, and to tell the Esquimaux that
the white men had come to make peace
between them and all their enemies, and
also to discover a passage by which every
article of which they stood in need might
be brought in large ships. He was not to
mention that we were accompanied by the
Indians, but to endeavour to prevail on
some of the Esquimaux to return with him.
He was directed to come back immediately
if there were no lodges at the rapid. '

The Indians were not suffered to move
out of our sight, but in the evening we per-
mitted two of them to cross the river in
pursuit of a musk ox, which they killed on
the beach, and returned immediately. The

N

OF THE POLAR SEA.

155

officers, prompted by an anxious solicitude
for Augustus and Junius, crawled up fre-
quently CO the summit of the mountain to
watch their return. The view, however,
was not extensive, being bounded at the
distance of eight miles by a range of hills
similar to the Copper Mountains, but not
so lofly. llie night came without bringing
any intelligence of our messengers, and our
fears for their safety increased with the
length of their absence.

As every one had been interested in the
welfare of these men through their vivacity
and good-nature, and the assistance they
had cheerfully rendered in bearing their
portion of whatever labour might be going
on, their detention formed- the subject of all
our conversation, and numerous conjectures
were hazarded as to the cause.

Dr. Richardson, having the first watch,
had gone to the summit of the hill and re-
mained seated contemplating the river that
washed the precipice under his feet, long
after dusk had hid distant objects from his
view. His thoughts were, perhaps, far dis*

i

n :

in,

i

156

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

tant from the surrounding scenery, when he
was roused by an indistinct noise behind
him, and, on looking round, perceived that
nine white wolves had ranged themselves
in the form of a crescent, and were ad-
vancing, apparently with the intention of
driving him into the river. On his rising
up they halted, and when he advanced they
made way for his passage down to the tents.
He had his gun in his hand, but forbore to
fire, lest there should be Esquimaux in the
neighbourhood. During Mr. Wentzel's
middle watch, the wolves appeared re-
peatedly on ^he summit of the hill, and at
one time they succeeded in driving a deer
ovier the precipice. The animal was stunned
by the fall, buv recovering itself, swam
across the stream, and escaped up the river.
I may remark here, that at midnight it was
tolerably dark in the valley of the river at
this time, but that an object on the eminence
above could be distinctly seen against the sky.
The following observations were taken
at this encampment ; latitude, 67° ^3' 14" N.,
longitude, 116° 6' 51" W., variation, 49° 46'

OF THE POLAR SEA.

157

24" E. Thermometer 75° at three P.M.
Suhry weather.

Augustus and Junius not having returned
next morning, we were more alarmed
respecting them, and determined on pro-
ceeding to find out the cause of their deten-
tion, but it was eleven A.M. before we
could prevail upon the Indians to remain
behind, which we wished them to do, lest
the Esquimaux might be suspicious of our
intentions, if they were seen in our suite.
We promised to send for them when we
hp*d paved the way for their reception ; but
Akaitcho, ever ready to augur misfortune,
expressed his belief that our messengers
had been killed, and that the Esquimaux,
warned of our approach, were lying in wait
for us, and " although," said he, " your
party may be sufficiently strong to repulse
any hostile attack, my band is too weak to
offer effectual resistance when separated
from you, and therefore we are determined
to go on with you, or to return to our lands."
Afler much argument, however, he yielded,
and agreed to stay behind, provided Mr.

t

i]

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158

JOUKNEY TO THE SHORES

M

Wentzel would remain with him. This
gentleman was accordingly left with a Cana-
dian attendant, and they T)romised not to
pass a range of hills then in view to the.
northward, unless we sent notice to them.

The river during the whole of this day's
voyage flowed between alternate cliffs of
loose sand intermixed with gravel and red
sand-stone rocks, and was everywhere shal-
low and rapid. As its course was very
crooked, much time was spent in examining
the different rapids previous to running
them, but the canoes descended, except at
a single place, without any difficulty. Most
of the officers and half the men marched
along the land to lighten the canoes and
reconnoitre the country, each person being
armed with a gim and a dagger. Arriving
at a range of mountains which had termi-
nated our view yesterday, we ascended it
with much eagerness, expecting to see the
rapid that Mr. Hearne visited near its base,
and to gain a view of the sea ; but our dis-
appointment was proportionably great, when
we beheld beyond a ;^ lain, similar to that we

I

OF THE POLAR SEA.

159

had just left, terminated by another range
of trap hills, between whose tops the f;um-
mits of some distant blue mountains ap-^
peared. Our reliance on the information
of the guides, which had been for some
time shaken, was now quite at an end, and
we feared that the sea was still far distant.
The flat country here is covered with grass,
and is devoid of the large stones so frequent
in the barren grounds ; but the ranges of
tl-ap hills, which seem to intersect it at
regular distances, are quite barren. A
few decayed stunted pines were standing
on the borders of the river. In the even-
ing we had the gratification of meeting
Junius, who was hastening back to inform,
us that they had found four Esquimaux
tents at the fall, which we recognised to be
the one described by Mr. Hearne. The
inmates wete asleep at the time of theii
arrival, but rose soon afterwards, and tlien
Augustus presented himself, and had some
conversation across the river. He told
them the vv^hite people had come, who would
make them very useful presents. The in-

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JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

formation of our arrival seemed to alwm
them very much, but as the noise of the
rapid prevented ♦hem from hearing dis-
' tinctly, one of them approached him in his
canoe and received the rest of the message.
He would not, however, land on his side of
the river, but returned to the tents without
receiving the present. His language dif-
fered in some respects from Augustus's,
but they understood each other tolerably
well. Augustus, trusting for a supply of
provision to the Esquimaux, had neglected
to carry any with him, and this was the
main cause of Junius 's return. We now
encamped, having come fourteen miles.
After a few hours' rest, Junius set otf again
to rejoin his companion, being accompanied
by Hepburn, who was directed to remain
about two miles above the fall, to arrest the
canoes on their pg .*;,e, lest we should too
suddenly surprise Uie Esquimaux. About
ten P.M. we were mortified by the appear-
ance of the Indians with Mr, Wentzel, who
had in vain endeavo ired to restrain them
from following us. The only rea*?o:i

OF THE POLAR SEA*

161

assigned by Akaitcho for this conduct was,
that he wished for a reassurance of my pro-
mise to estabhsh peace between his nation
and the Esquimaux. I took this occasion
of again enforcing the necessity of their
remaining behind, until we had obtained the
confidence and good-will of their enemies.
After supper Dr. Richardson ascended a
lofty hill about three miles from the en-
campment, and obtained the first view of
the sea ; it appeared to be covered with ice.
A large promontory, which I named Cape
Hearne, bore N.E., and its lofty mountains
proved to be the blue land we had seen in
the forenoon, and which had led us to
believe the sea was still far distant. He
saw the sun set a few minutes before mid-
night from the same elevated situation. It
did not rise during the half hour he remained
there, but before he reached the encamp-
ment its rays gilded the tops of the hills.

The night was warm, and we were much
annoyed by the musquitoes.

June 15. — We this morning experienced
as much difficulty as before in prevailing

VOL. III.

M

16J3

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Upon the Indians to remain behind, and
they did not consent until I had declared
that they should lose the reward which had
been promised, if they proceeded any
farther, before we had prepared the Esqui-
maux to receive them. We left a Canadian
with them, and proceeded, not without
apprehension that they would follow us,
and derange our whole plan by their obsti-
nacy. Two of the officers and a party of
the men walked on the shore, to lighten the
canoes. The river in this part flows be-
tween high and stony cliffs, reddish slate
clay rocks, and shelving banks of white
day, and is full of shoals and dangerous
rapids. One of these was termed Escape
Rapid, both the canoes having narrowly
escaped foundering in its high waves. We
had entered the rapid before we were aware,
and ihe steepness of the cliffs preventing
us from landing, we were indebted to the
swiftness of our descent for preservation.
Two waves made a complete breach over
thfc canoes ; a third would in all probability
have filled and overset them, which must

OF THE POLAR SEA.

I6d

have proved fatal to every one in them.
The powder fortunately escaped the water,
which was soon discharged when we reached
the bottom of the rapid. At noon we per-
ceived Hepburn lying on the left bank of
the river, and landed immediately to receive
his information. As he represented the
water to be shoal the whole way to the
rapid, (below which the Esquimaux were,)
the shore party were directed to continue
their march to a sandy bay at the head of
the fall, and there await the arrival of the
canoes. The land in the neighbourhood of
the rapid is of the most singular form :
large irregular sand hills bounding both
banks, apparently so unconnected that they
resemble icebergs ; the country aroun i them
consisting of high round green hills. The
river becomes wide in this part, and full of
shoals, but we had no difficulty in finding a
channel through them. On regaining the
shore party, we regretted to find that some
of the men had incautiously appeared on
the tops of the hills, just at the time
Augustus was conversing with one of Cie

M 2

164

JOURNEY TO THE SHOAES

L

Esquimafux, who had again approached in
his canoe, and was almost persuaded to
land. The unfortunate appearance of so
many people at this instant revived his
fears, and he crossed over to the eastern
bank of the river, and fled with the whole
of his party. We learned from Augustus
that this party, consisting of four men and
as many women, had manifested a friendly
disposition. Two of the former were very
tall. The man who first came to speak to
him, inquired the number of canoes that we
had with us, expressed himself to be not
displeased at our arrival, and desired him
to caution us not to attempt running the
rapid, but to make the portage on the west
side of the river. Notwithstanding this
appearance of confidence and satisfaction,
it seems they did not consider their situa-
tion free from danger, as they retreated the
first night to an island somewhat farther
down the river, and in the morning they
returned and threw down their lodges, as if
to give notice to any of their nation that
might arrive, that there was an enemy in

OF THE POLAR SEA.

1C5

id in
ed to
of so
d his
astern
whole
gustus
en and
riendly
•e very
>eak to
that we
be not
ed him
ing the
he west
ng this
jfaction,

r situa-
ated the
farther

ing they
jes, as if

tion that

nemy in

the neighbourhood. From seeing all their
property strewed about, and tea of their
dogs lefl, we entertained the hope that these
poor people would return afler their first
alarm had subsided ; and therefore I deter-
mined on remaining until the next day, in
the expectation of seeing them, as I consi-
dered the opening of an early communica-
tion a matter of the greatest importance in
our state of absolute ignorance respecting
the sea-coast. The canoes and cargoes
were carried across the portage, and we
encamped on the north side of it. We sent
Augustus and Junius across the river to
look for the runaways, but their search was
fruitless. They put a few pieces of iron
and trinkets in their canoes, which were
lying on the beach. We also sent some
men * j put up the stages offish, and secure
them as much a^^^ possible from the attacks
of the dogs. Under the covering of their
tents were observed some stone kettles and
hatchets, a few fish spears made of copper,
two small bits of iron, a quantity of skins,
and some dried salmon, which was covered

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JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

with maggots, and half putrid. The entrails
of the Bah were spread out to dry. A
great many skins of small birds were hung
up to a stage, and even two mice were pre-
served in the same way. Thus it would
appear that the necessities of these poor
people induce them to preserve every
article that can be possibly used as food.
Several human skulls which bore the marks
of violence, and many bones, were strewed
about the grOUlid near the encampment,
and as the spot exactly answers the descrip-
tion given by Mr, Hearne, of the place
where the Chipewyans who accompanied
him perpetrated the dreadful massacre on
the Esquimaux, we had no doubt of this
being the place, notwithstanding the differ-
ence in its position as to latitude and longi-
tude given by him, and ascertained by our
observation. We have, therefore, preserved
the appellation of Bloody Fall, which he
bestowed upon it. Its situation by our
observations is, in latitude 67° 42' 35" N.,
longitude 115° 49' 33" W., variation 50° 20'
14" E. This rapid is a sort of shelving

OF THE POLAR SEA.

1G7

cascade, about three hundred yards in
length, having a descent of from ten to fif-
teen feet. It is bounded on each side by
high walls of red sand-stone, upon which
rests a series of lofty green hills. On its
north side, close to the east bank, is the low
rocky island which the Esquimaux had
deserted. The surrounding scenery was
accurately delineated in a sketch taken by
Mr. Hood. We caught forty excellent
salmon and white fish in a single net below
the rapid. We had not seen any trees
during this day's journey ; our fuel consisted
of small willows and pieces of dried wood
that were picked up near the encampment.
The ground is well clothed with grass, and
nourishes most of the shrubs and berry-
bearing plants that we have seen north of
Fort Enterprise ; and the country altogether
has a richer appearance than the barren
lands of the Copper Indians. We had a
distinct view of the sea from the summit of
a hill behind the tents ; it appeared choked
with ice, and full of islands.

On the morning of the 16th, three men

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JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

were sent up the river to search for dried
wood to make floats for the nets. Adam,
the interpreter, was also despatched with a
Canadian, to inform Akaitcho of the flight
of the Esquimaux. We were preparing to
go down to the sea in one of the canoes,
leaving Mr. Back to await the return of the
men who were absent; but just as the crew
were putting the canoe in the water, Adam
returned in the utmost consternation, and
informed us that a party of Esquimaux
were pursuing the men whom we had sent
to collect floats. The orders for embarking
were instantly countermanded, and we went
with a part of our men to their rescue. We
soon met our people returning at a slow
pace, and learned that they had come un-
awares upon the Esquimaux party, which
consisted of six men, with their women and
children, who were travelling tovards the
rapid with a considerable number of dogs
carrying their baggage. The women hid
themselves on the first alarm, but the nien
advanced, and stopping at some distance
from ot.r men, began to dance in a circle,

OF THE POLAR SEA,

1G9

tossing up their hands in the air, and ac-
companying their motions with much shout-
ing, to signify, I conceive, their desire of
peace. Our men saluted them by pulling
off their hats, and making bows, but neither
party was willing to approach the other;
and at length the Esquimaux retired to the
hill, from whence they had descended when
first seen. We proceded in the hope of
gaining an interview with them, but lest
our appearance in a body should alarm
them, we advanced in a long line, at the
head of which was Augustus. We were
led to their baggage, which they had de-
serted, by the howling of the dogs ; and on
the summit of the hill we found, lying
behind a stone, an old man, who was too
infirm to effect his escape with the rest.
He was much terrified when Augustus ad-
vanced, and probably expected immediate
death; but that the fatal blow might not
be unrevenged, he seized his spear, and
made a thrust with it at his supposed
enemy. Augustus, however, easily re-
pressed the feeble effort, and soon calmed

170

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

fJl

his fears by presenting him with some pieces
of iron, and assuring him of his friendly in-
tentions. Dr. Richardson and I then joined
them, and after receiving our presents, the
old man was quite composed, and became
communicative. His dialect differed from
that used by Augustus, but they imderstood
each other tolerably well.

It appeared that his party consisted of
eight men and their families, who we^e re-
turning from a hunting excursion with
dried meat. After being told who we were,
he said that he had heard of white people
from different parties of his nation which
resided on the sea-coast to the eastward ;
and to our inquiries respecting the provision
and fuel we might expect to get on our
voyage, he informed us that the rein-deer
frequent the coast during summer, the fish
are plentiful at the mouths of the rivers, the
seals are abundant, but there are no sea-
horses nor whales, although he remembered
one of the latter, which had been killed by
some distant tribe, having been driven on
shore on his part of the coast by a gale of

OF THE POLAR SEA.

171

eces
^ in-
►ined
, the
:ame
from
itood ■

ed of
•e re-
with
were,
>eople
which
vard ;
vision

our
i-deer
le fish
•s, the

sea-
Ibered
|ed by
jn on
lale of

wind. That musk-oxen were to be found
a little distance up the rivers, and that we
should get drift wood along the shore.
He had no knowledge of the coast to the
eastward beyond the next river, which he
called Nappa-arktok-towock, or Tree River.
The old man, contrary to the Indian prac-
tice, asked each of our names ; and, in reply
to a similar question on our part, said his
name was Terregannoeuck, or the White
Fox ; and that his tribe denominated them-
selves Nagge-ook-tormoeoot, or Deer-Horn
Esquimaux. They usually frequent the
Bloody Fall during this and the following
moons, for the purpose of salting salmon,
and then retire to a river which flows into
the sea, a short way to the westward, (since
denominated Richardson's River,) and pass
the winter in snow-houses.

After this conversation Terregannoeuck
proposed going down to his baggage, and
we then perceived he was too infirm to
walk without the assistance of sticks. Au-
gustus, therefore, offered him his arm^
which he readily accepted, and on reaching

mtmm

\TZ

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

i M)

his store, he distributed pieces of dried
meat to each person, which, though highly
tainted, were immediately eaten ; this being
an universal token among the Indians of
peaceable intention.

We then informed him of our desire to
procure as much meat as we possibly could,
and he told us that he had a large quantity
concealed in the neighbourhood, which he
would cause to be carried to us when his
people returned.

I now communicated to him that we were
accompanied by some Copper Indians, who
were very desirous to make peace with his
nation, and that they had requested me to
prevail upon the Esquimaux to receive them
in a friendly manner ; to which he replied,
he should rejoice to see an end put to the
hostility that existed between the nations,
and therefore would most gladly welcome
our companions. Having despatched Adam
to inform Akaitcho of this circumstance, we
left Terregannoeuck, in the hope that his
party would rejoin him ; but as we had
doubts whether the young men would ven-

OF THE POLAR SEA.

173

Iriecl
ighly
being
ns of

lire to
could,
lantity
ich he
len his

re were
IS, who
ith his
me to
^e them
rephed,
t to the
ations,
elcome
Adam
Lnce, we
that his
re had
lid ven-

ture upon coming to our tents, on the old
man's bare representation, we sent Augustus
and Junius back in the evening, to remain
with him until they came, that they might
fully detail our intentions.

The countenance of Terregannceuck was
oval, with a sufficiently prominent nose,
and had nothing very different from an Eu-
ropean face, except in the smallness of his
eyes, and, perhaps, in the narrowness of his
forehead. His complexion was very fresh
and red, and he had a longer beard than I
had seen on any of the aboriginal inhabitants
of America. It was between two and three
inches long, and perfectly white. His face
was not tattooed. His dress consisted of a
shirt or jacket with a hood, wide breeches,
reaching only to the knee, and tight leggins
sewed to! the shoes, all of deer skins. The
soles of the shoes were made of seal-skin,
and stuffed with feathers instead of socks.
He was bent with age, but appeared to be
about five feet ten inches high. His hands
and feet were small in proportion to his
height. Whenever Terregannceuck received

i

■iw

174

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

'"

a present, he placed each article first on his
right shoulder, then on his left; and when
he wished to express still higher satisfac-
tion, he rubbed it over his head. He held
hatchets, and other iron instruments, in the
highest esteem. On seeing his countenance
in a glass for the first time, he exclaimed,
" I shall never kill deer more," and imme-
diately put the mirror down. The tribe to
which he belongs repair to the sea in spring,
and kill seals ; as the season advances they
hunt deer and musk oxen at some distance
from the coast. Their weapon is the bow
and arrow, and they get sufficiently nigh
the deer, either by crawling, or by leading
these animals by ranges of turf towards a
spot where the archer can conceal himself.
Their bows are formed of three pieces of
fir, the centre piece alone bent, the other
two lying in the same straight line with the
bowstring; the pieces are neatly tied to-
gether with sinew. Their canoes are similar
to those we saw in Hudson's Straits, but
smaller. They get fish constantly in the
rivers, and in the sea as soon as the ice

OF THE POLAR SEA.

175

breaks up. This tribe do not make use of
nets, but are tolerably successful with the
hook and" line. Their cooking utensils are
made of pot-stone, and they form very neat
dishes of fir, the sides being made of thin
deal, bent into an oval form, secured at tlie
ends by sewing, and fitted so nicely to the
bottom as to be perfectly water-tight. They
have also large spoons made of the horns
of the musk oxen.

Akaitcho and the Indians arrived at our
tents in the evening, and we learned that
they had seen the Esquimaux the day
before, and endeavoured, without success,
to open a communication with them. They
exhibited no hostile intention, but were
afraid to advance. Akaitcho, keeping out
of their sight, followed at a distance, ex-
pecting that, ultimately, finding themselves
enclosed between our party and his, they
would be compelled to come to a parley
with one of us. Akaitcho had seen Terre-
gannoeuck soon after pur departure ; he
was much terrified, and thrust his spear at
him as he had done at Augustus; but was

176

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

soon reconciled after the demonstrations of
kindness the Indians made, in cutting off
the buttons from their dress to present to
him.

July 17. — We waited all this forenoon in
momentary expectation of the return of
Augustus and Junius, but as they did not
appear at two P.M., I sent Mr. Hood with
a party of men, to inquire into the cause of
their detention, and to bring the meat which
Terregannoeuck had promised us. He re-
turned at midnight with the information,
that none of the Esquimaux had yet ven-
tured to come near Terregannoeuck except
his aged wife, who had concealed herself
amongst the rocks at our first interview;
and she told him the rest of the party had
gone to a river, a short distance to the west-
ward, where there was another party of
Esquimaux fishing. Augustus and Junius
had erected the tent, and done every thing
in their power to make the old man com-
fortable in their absence. Terregannoeuck,
being unable to walk to the place where the
meat was concealed, readily pointed the

m
CoJ

OF THE rOLAR SEA,

177

of
)ff
to

in
of
not
vith
e of
hich
; re-
tion,
ven-
cept
rself
iew ;
had
Iwest-
•ty of
unius
thing
com-.
!uck,
ire the
id the

spot out to Mr. Hood, who went thither;
but after experiencing much difficulty in
getting at the column of rock on which it
was deposited, he found it too putrid for
our use. The features of Terregannoeuck's
wife were remarkable for roundness and
flatness ; her face was much tattoed, and
her dress differed little from the old man's.
In the afternoon a party of nine Esqui-
maux appeared on the east bank of the
river, about a mile below our encampment,
carrying their canoes and baggage on their
backs ; but they turned and fled as soon as
they perceived our tents. The appearance
of so many different bands of Esquimaux
terrified the Indians so much, that they de-
termined on leaving us the next day, lest
they should be surrounded and their retreat
cut off*. I endeavoured, by the offer of any
remuneration they would choose, to prevail
upon one or two of the hunters to proceed,
but in vain ; and I had much difficulty even
in obtaining their promise to wait at the
Copper Mountains for Mr. Wentzel, and

VOL. III.

N

ii**

•«p-**«naM>wi

178

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the four men, whom I intended to discharge
at the sea.

The fears which our interpreters, St.
Germain and Adam, entertained respecting
the voyage, were now greatly increased, and
both of them came this evening to request
their discharge, urging that their services
could 'be no longer requisite, as the Indians
were going from us. St. Germain even
said that he had understood he was only
engaged to accompany us as long as the
Indians did, and persisted in this falsehood
until his agreement to go with lis through-
out the voyage had been twice read to him.
As these were the only two of the party on
whose skill in hunting we could rely, I was
unable to listen for a moment to their desire
of quitting us, and lest they should leave
us by stealth, their motions were strictly
watched. This was not an unnecessary
precaution, as I was informed that they had
actually laid a plan for eloping; but the
rest of the men knowing that their own
safety would have been compromised had

OF THE POLAR SEA.

179

they succeeded, kept a watchful eye over
them. We knew that the dread of the
Esquimaux would prevent these men from
leaving us as soon as the Indians were at a
distance, and we trusted to their becoming
reconciled to the journey when once the
novelty of a sea voyage had worn off.

July 18. — As the Indians persevered in
their determination of setting out this morn-
ing, I reminded them, through Mr. Wentzel
and St. Germain, of the necessity of our
having the deposit of provision made at Fort
Enterprise, and received a renewed assu-
rance of their attending to that point. They
were also desired to put as much meat as
they could en cache on the banks of the
Copper-Mine River on their return. We
then furnished them with what ammunition
we could spare, and they took their depar-
ture, promising to wait three days for Mr.
Wentzel at the Copper Mountains. We
afterwards learned that their fears did not
permit them to do so, and that Mr. Went-
zel did not rejoin them until they were a

N 9.

180

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

*■ I .

day's march to the southward of the moun-
tains.

We embarked at five A.M. and pro-
ceeded towards the sea, which is about nine
miles beyond the Bloody Fall. After pass-
ing a few rapids, the river became wider,
and more navigable for canoes, flowing be-
tween banks of alluvial sand. We en-
camped at ten on the western bi'nk at its
junction with the sea. The river is here
about a mile wide, but very shallow, being
barred nearly across by sand banks, which
run out from the main land on each side to
a low alluvial island that lies in the centre,
and forms two channels ; of these the west-
ernmost only is navigable even for canoes,
the other being obstructed by a stony bar.
The islands to seaward are high and numer-
ous, and fill the horizon in many points of
the compass ; the only open space, seen
from an eminence near the encampm'^nt,
being from N.b.E. to N.E.b.N. Towards
the east the land was like a chain of islands,
the ice apparently surrounding them in a

OF THE POLAR SEA.

181

1-
O-

ne

3S-

be-
en-

its
lere
eing
hich
Le to
ntre,
vest-

oes,

bar.
met-

ts of

seen

rards
lands,
in a

compact body, leaving a channel between
its edge and the main of about three miles.
The water in this channel as of a clear
green colour, and decidedly salt. Mr.
Hearne could have tasted it only at the
mouth of the river, when he pronounced it
merely brackish. A rise and fall of four
inches in the water was observed. The
shore is strewed with a considerable quan-
tity of drift timber, principally of the popu-
lus balsamiferaj but none of it of great size.
We also picked up some decayed wood far
out of the reach of the water. A few
stunted willows were growing near the en-
campment. Some ducks, gulls, and par-
tridges were seen this day. As I had to
make up despatches for England to be
sent by Mr. Wentzel, the nets were set in
the interim, and we were rejoiced to find
that they produced sufficient fish for the
party. Those caught were, the Copper-Mine
River salmon, white fish, and two species
of pleuronectes. We felt a considera;ble
change of temperature on reaching the sea-
coast, produced by the wLids changing from

182

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

I

the southward to the N.W. Our Canadian
voyagers complained much of the cold, but
they were amused with their first view of
the sea, and particularly with the sight of
the seals that were swimming about near
the entrance of the river, but these sensa-
tions gave place to despondency before the
evening had elapsed. They were terrified
at the idea of a voyage through an icy sea
in bark canoes. They speculated on the
length of the journey, the roughness of the
waves, the uncertainty of provisions, the
exposure to cold where we could expect
no fuel, and the prospect of having to tra-
verse the barren grounds to get to some
establishment. The two interpreters ex-
pressed their apprehensions with the least
disguise, and again urgently applied to be
discharged ; but only one of the Canadians
made a similar request. Judging that the
constant occupation of their time as soon as
we were enabled to commence the voyage
would prevent them froni conjuring up so
many causes of fear, and that familiarity
with the scenes on the coast would in a

f

OF THE POLAR SEA.

183

short time enable them to give scope to
their natural cheerfulness, the officers en-
deavoured to ridicule their fears, and hap-
pily succeeded for the present. The man-
ner in which our faithful Hepburn viewed
the element to which he had been so long
accustomed, contributed not a little to make
them ashamed of their fears.

On the morning of the 19th, Dr. Richard-
son, accompanied by Augustus, paid ano-
ther visit to Terregannceuck, to see if he
could obtain any additional information re-
specting the country to the eastward ; but
he was disappointed at finding that his af-
frighted family had not yet rejoined him, and
the old man could add nothing to his former
communication. The Doctor remarked
that Terregannceuck had a great dislike to
mentioning the name of the Copper-Mine
River, and evaded the question with much
dexterity as often as it was put to him ; but
that he willingly told the name of a river
to the eastward, and also of his tribe. He
attempted to persuade Augustus to remain
with him, and offered him one of his daugh-

ftSi

184

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

ters for a wife. These Esquimaux strike
fire with two stones, catching the sparks in
the down of the catkins of a willow.

The despatches being finished were de-
livered this evening to Mr. Wentzel, who
parted from us at eight P.M. with Parent,
Gagnier, Dumas, and Forcier, Canadians,
whom I had discharged for the purpose of
reducing our expenditure of provision as
much as possible. The remainder of the
party, including officers, amounted to twenty
persons. I made Mr. Wentzel acquainted
with the probable course of our future pro-
ceedings, and mentioned to him that if we
were far distant from this river, when the
season or other circumstances rendered it
necessary to put a stop to our advance, we
should, in all probability, be unable to re-
turn to it, and should have to travel across
the barren grounds towards oome established
post: in which case I told him that we
should certainly go first to Fort Enterprise,
expecting that he would cause the Indians
to place a supply of dried provision there,
as soon as possible after their arrival in its

OF THE FOLAU SEA.

185

vicinity. My instructions to him were, that
he should proceed to Point Lake, transport
the canoe that was left there to Fort Enter-
prise, where he was to emhark the instru-
ments and books, and carry them to Slave
Lake, and to forward the box containing
the journals, &:c., with the present de-
spatches, by the next winter packet to
England. But before he quitted Fort En-
terprise, he was to be assured of the inten-
tion of the Indians to lay up the provision
we required, and if they should be in want
of ammunition for that purpose, to procure
it if possible from Fort Providence or the
other forts in Slave Lake, and send it im-
mediately to them by the hunters whc^ ac-
companied him thither. I also requested
him to ascertain from Akaitcho and the
other leading Indians where their different
parties would be hunting in the months of
September and October, and to leave this
information in a letter at Fort Enterprise,
for our guidance in finding them, as we
should require their assistance. Mr. Went-
zel was furnished with a list of the stores

V

\ i

186

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

r

that had been promised to Akaitcho and his
party as a remuneration for their services,
as well as with an official request to the
North-West Company that these goods
might be paid to them on their next visit to
Fort Providence, which they expected to
make in the latter part of November. I
desired him to mention this circumstance to
the Indians as an encouragement to exertion
in our behalf, and to promise them an addi-
tional reward for the supply of provision
they should collect at Fort Enterprise.

If Mr. Wentzel met the Hook, or any of
his party, he was instructed to assure them
diat he was provided with the necessary
documents to get them payment for any
meat they should put en cache for our use ;
and to acquaint them, that we fully relied
on their fulfilling every part of the agree-
ment they had made with us. Whenever the
Indians, whom he was to join at the Cop-
per-Mountains, killed any animals on their
way to Fort Enterprise, he was requested
to put en cache whatever meat could be
spared, placing conspicuous marks to guide

[

OF THE POLAR SEA.

187

'

US to them; and I particularly begged he
would employ them in hunting in our ser-
vice, immediately after his arrival at the
house.

When Mr. Wentzel's party had been
supplied with ammunition, our remaining
stock consisted of one thousand balls, and
rather more than the requisite proportion
of powder. A bag of small shot was miss-
ing, and we afterwards discovered that the
Canadians had secreted and distributed it
among themselves, in order that, when pro-
vision should become scarce, they might
privately procure ducks and geese, and
avoid the necessity of sharing them with
the officers.

The situation of our encampment was
ascertained to be, latitude 67° 47' 50" N.,
longitude 115° 36' 49" W., the variation of
the compass 46° 25' 52" E., and dip of the
needle 88° 5' 07".

It will be perceived, that the position of
the mouth of the river, given by our obser-
vations, differs widely from that assigned

)

188

JOURNEY T •> THE SHORES

by Mr. Hearne ; but the accuracy of his
description, conjoined with Indian informa-
tion, assured us that we were at the very
part he visited. I therefore named the
most conspicuous cape we then saw " Cape
Hearne," as a just tribute to the memory
of that persevering traveller. I distin-
guished another cape by the name of Mac-
kenzie, in honour of Sir Alexander Mac-
kenzie, the only other European* who had
before reached the Northern Ocean. I
called the river which falls into the sea, to
the westward of the Copper-Mine, Richard-
son, as a testimony of sincere regard for
my friend and companion. Dr. Richardson ;
and named the islands which were in view
from our encampment, " Couper's Isles,"
in honour of a friend of his. The sun set
this night at thirty minutes after eleven,
apparent time.

The travelling distance from Fort Enter-
prise to the North of the Copper-Mine

* Captain Parry's success was at this time unknown
to us.

i

d
ai

OF THE POLAR SEA.

189

River is about three hundred and thirty-
four miles. The canoes and baggage were
dragged over snow and ice for one hundred
and seventeen miles of this distance.

t

))

iter-
[ine

tnown

i

190

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

CHAPTER XI.

Navigation of the Polar Sea, in two Canoes, as far as
Cape Turnagain, to the Eastward, a distance exceed-
ing Five Hundred and Fifty Miles— Observations
on the Probability of a North- West Passage,

July 20, — We intended to have embarked
early this morning, and to have launched
upon an element more congenial with our
habits than the fresh-water navigations,
with their numerous difficulties and impedi-
ments, which we had hitherto encountered,
but which was altogether new to our Cana-
dian voyagers. We were detained, how-
ever, by a strong north-east gale, which
continued the whole day, with constant
thunder showers ; the more provoking, as
our nets procured but few fish, and w^e had
to draw upon our store of dried meat ;
which, with other provision for the journey,
amounted only to fifteen days' consumption.
Indeed, we should have preferred going

OF THE POLAR SEA.

191

4

»ing

dinnerless to bed rather than encroach on
our small stock, had we not been desirous
of satisfying the appetites, and cheering the
spirits of our Canadian companions at the
commencement of our voyage. These
thoughtless people would at any time incur
the hazard of absolute starvation at a future
period, for the present gratification of their
appetites ; to indulge which they do not
hesitatCy as we more than once experienced,
at helping themselves secretly ; it being, in
their opinion, no disgrace to be detected in
pilfering food.

Our only luxury now was a little salt,
which had long been our substitute both for
bread and vegetables. Since our departure
from Point Lake we had boiled the Indian
tea plant, ledum palustrct which produced a
beverage in smell much resembling rhubarb ;
notwithstanding which we found it refresh-
ing, and were gratified to see this plant
flourishing abundantly on the sea-shore,
though of dwarfish growth.

July 21. — The wind, which had blown
strong through the night, became moderate

I;

192

journi:y to the siiouks

U I

\:

in tlie morninjjf, hut a dense fog prevented
lis from embarking until noon, when we
commenced our voyage on the Hyperborean
Sea. Soon afterwards we landed on an
island where the Esquimaux had erected a
stage of drift timber, and stored up many of
their fishing implements and winter sledges,
together with a great many dressed seal,
musk-ox, and deer skins. Their spears
headed with bone, and many small articles
of the same material, were worked with
extreme neatness, as well as their wooden
dishes, tand cooking utensils of stone; and
several articles, very elegantly formed of
bone, were evidently intended for some
game, b'lt Augustus was unacquainted with
their use. We took from this deposit four
seal-skins to repair our shoes, and left in
exchange a copper kettle, some awls and
beads.

We paddled all day along the coast to the
eastward, on the inside of a crowded range
of islands, and saw very little ice ; the
" blink" of it, however, was visible to the
northward, and one small iceberg was seen

"" THE POIAR SEA. j„.

^^ a distance A tii

'""""K .1.0 i.sIanltv^^^ ''r''''''''''''^'
"'e water, but we c„. U !'? """'''"« ""

"."e.. on an ^'t :"r:;r ':i..e?^-^^"

groat acqnisition to ,„ . i? ' ,' "^"^ "
had seen for some 1",: """' !'"' «■•«' ^ve

Hav.n.encr^rt'tr^""'';''""-
«fter a run of tl.irty-seven mL, '''"'■'••
a pole to ascertain [he '.To Z^^Vu V "''
water, wl.id. was repeated af ", "'^ "'^'

place, and Hepburn' wtsorl3''«'''V
to the result. We foun.I .1 ""'"''

covered with veiretatmn^ , '''"''' '^e"
even in its ourCanVear of"' ^ ''^'■^'"'
Tlie islands are roeky aLrb!^ ''^P'"""'^''-
ing high cliffs of a column, ?"' P"""^^"''

have named the west ir^'r,: '
we passed « Berens' IsleT" n\ ^ ""''^

Governor of the H„d tn, C Cr °' '"
and the easternmost, « Sir Grltf *^""lP'»'yi
Islands." At the <rJ ? ''^'" ^'''"'•e's

-emuscleihltdrtli:;.^-''"'
sea-weed lay on the beach 1, ^"'' °^

only spot on the coast where'w;;::^
VOL. III. *^ ^^w Shells.

•I'l

19'i

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

^l

We were rejoiced to find the beach strewed
with abundance of small drift-wood, none of
it recent.

It may be remarked that the Copper-
Mine River does not bring down any drift-
wood ; nor does any other known stream
except Mackenzie's River ; hence, from its
appearance on this part of the coast, an
easterly current iiay be inferred. This
evening we were all in high glee at the pro-
gress we had made ; the disappearance of
the ice, and the continuance of the land in
an eastern direction, and our future pro-
spects, formed an enlivening subject of con-
versation. The thermometer varied during
the day between 43° and 45°. Thef fishing
nets were set, but produced nothing.

On the 22d we embarked at four A.M.,
and, having the benefit of a light breeze,
continued our voyage along the coast under
sail until eleven, when we halted to break-
fast, and to obtain the latitude. The coast
up to this point presented the same general
appearance as yesterday, namely, a gravelly
or sandy beach, skirted by green plains ;

OF THE POLAR SEA.

195

Ls;

but as we proceeded, the shore became
exceedingly rocky and sterile ; and at last,
projecting considerably to the northward, it
formed a high and steep promontory. Some
ice had drifted down upon this cape, which
we feared might check our progress ; but,
as the evening was fine, we ventured upon
pushing the canoes through the small chan-
nels formed among it. After pursuing this
kind of navigation, with some danger and
more anxiety, we landed, and encamped on
a smooth rocky point ; whence we perceived,
with much satisfaction, that the ice consisted
only of detached pieces, which would be
removed by the first breeze. We sounded
in seventeen fathoms, close to the shore, this
day. The least depth ascertained by the
lead, since our departure from the river,
was six fathoms ; and any ship might pass
safely between the islands and the main.
The water is of a light green colour, but
not very clear ; and much less salt than that
of the Atlantic, judging from our recollec-
tion of its taste. In the course of the day
we saw geese and ducks with their young,

o 2

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I

196

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

and two deer, and experienced very great
variations of temperature, from the light
breezes blowing alternately from the ice and
the land. The name of " Lawford's Islands"
was bestowed on a group we passed in the
course of the day, as a mark of my respect
for Vice-Admiral Lawford, under whose
auspices I first entered the naval service.

A fresh breeze blowing through the night
had driven the ice from the land, and
opened a channel of a mile in width ; we
therefore embarked at nine A.M. to pursue
our journey along the coast, but at the dis-
tance of nine miles were obliged to seek
shelter in Port Epworth, the wind having
become adverse, and too strong to admit of
our proceeding. The Tree River of the
Esquimaux, which discharges its waters
into this bay, appears to be narrow, and
much interrupted by rapids. The fishing-
nets were set, but obtained only one white
fish and a few bull-heads. This part of the
coast is the most sterile and inhospitable
that can be imagined. One trap cliff suc-
ceeds another with tiresome uniformity, and

f

1

OF THE POLAR SEA,

197

their debris cover the narrow valleys that
intervene, to the exclusion of every kind of
herbage. From the summit of these cliffs
the ice appeared in every direction.

We obtained the following observations
during our stay; latitude, Q7° 42' 15" N.,
longitude, 112° 30' 00" W., variation, 47°
37' 42" E.

The wind abating, at eight P.M. we re-
embarked, and eoon afterwards discovered,
on an island, a rein-deer, which the inter-
preters fortunately killed. Resuming our
voyage we were much impeded by the ice,
and, at length, being unable to force a pas-
sage through a close stream that had col-
lected round a cape, we put ashore at four
A.M. On the 24th, several stone fox-
traps and other traces of the Esquimaux
were seen near the encampment. The ho-
rizontal refraction varied so much this
morning, that the upper limb cf the sun
twice appeared at the horizon before it
finally rose.

For the last two days the water rose and
fell about nine inches. The tides, however,

198

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

seemed to be very irregular, and we could
not determine the direction of the ebb or
flood. A current setting to the eastward
was running about two miles an hour during
our stay. The ice having removed a short
distance trom the shore, by eleven A.M.
^'e embarked, and with some difficulty ef-
fected a passage; then making a traverse
across Gray's Bay,* we paddled up under
the eastern shore against a strong wind.
The interpreters landed here, and went in
pursuit of a deer, but had no success. This
part of the coast is indented by deep bays,
which are separated by peninsulas formed
like wedges, sloping many miles into the
sea, and joined by low land to the main;
so that often mistaking them for islands, we
were led by a circuitous route round the
bays. Cliffs were numerous on the islands,
which were all of the trap formation.

At seven, a thunder-storm coming on, we

* Named after Mr. Gray, principal of the Belfast
Academy. An island which lies across the mouth of
this bay bears the name of our English sailor Hep-
burn.

-T.f '^m..

OF THE POLAR SEA.

199

I

encamped at the mouth of a river about
eighty yards wide, and set four nets. This
stream, which received the name of Went-
zel, after our late companion, discharges a
considerable body of water. Its banks are
sandy and clothed with herbage. The Es-
quimaux had recenay piled up some drift
timber here. A few ducks, ravens, and
snow birds were seen to-day. The distance
made was thirty-one miles.

July 25. — We had constant rain with
thunder during the night. The nets fur-
nished only three salmon- trout. We attri-
buted the want of greater success to the
entrance of some seals into the mouth of
the river. Embarking at six A.M. we
paddled against a cold breeze, until the
spreading of a thick fog caused us to land.
The rocks here consisted of a beautiful
mixture of red and gray granite, traversed
from north to south by veins of red felspar,
which were crossed in various directions
by smaller veins filled with the same sub-
stance.

At noon the wind coming from a favour-

I ■

><.B"" -'

200

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

i ^

able quarter tempted us to proceed, although
the fog was unabated. We kept as close
as we could to the main shore, but having
to cross some bays, it became a matter of
doubt whether we had not left the main,
and were running along an island. Just as
we were endeavouring to double a bold
cape, the fog partially cleared away, and
allowed us an imperfect view of a chain of
islands on the outside, and of much heavy
ice which was pressing down upon us. The
coast near us was so steep and rugged that
no landing of the cargoes could be effected,
and we were preserved only by some men
jumning on the rocks, and thrusting the ice
off with poles. There was no alternative
but to continue along this dreary shore,
seeking a channel between the different
masses of ice which had accumulated at the
various points. In this operation both the
caiioes were in imminent danger of being
crushed by the ice, which was now tossed
about by the waves that the gale had ex-
cited. We effected a passage, however,
and keeping close to the shore, landed at

lJ i

•a
I

OF THE POLAR SEA.

201

'4

9

.■i^'

a

t.4

I

L

the entrance of Detention Harbour, at nine
P.M., having come twenty-eight miles.
An old Esquimaux encampment was traced
on this spot; and an ice chisel, a copper
knife, and a small iron knife were found
under the turf. I named this cape after
Mr. Barrow of the Admiralty, to whose
exertions are mainly owing the discoveries
recently made in Arctic geography. An
opening on its eastern side received the ap-
pellation of Inman Harbour, after my friend
the Professor at the Royal Naval College,
Portsmouth ; and to a group of islands to
seaward of it, we gave the name of Jameson,
in honour of the distinguished Professor of
Mineralogy at Edinburgh.

We had much wind and rain during the
night ; and by the morning of the 26th a
great deal of ice had drifted into the inlet.
We embarked at four, and attempted to
force a passage, when the first canoe got
enclosed, and remained for some time in a
very perilous situation, the pieces of ice,
crowded together by the action of the cur-
rent and wind, pressing strongly against its

Vl

i .

■ i I

202

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

feeble sides. A partial opening, however,
occurring, we landed without having sus-
tained any serious injury. Two men were
then sent round the bay, and it was ascer-
tained that instead of having entered a
narrow passage between an island and the
main, we were at the mouth of a harbour,
having an island at its entrance ; and that
it was necessary to return by the way we
came, and get round a point to the north-
ward. This was, however, impracticable,
the channel being blocked up by drift ice ;
and we had no prospect of release except
by a change of wind. This detention was
extremely vexatious, as we were losing a
fair wind, and expending our provision. In
the afternoon the weather cleared up, and
sev jral men went hunting, but were unsuc-
cessful. During the day the ice floated
backwards and forwards in the harbour,
moved by currents, not regular "enough to
deserve the name of tide, and which ap-
peared to be governed by the wind. We
perceived great diminution by melting in
the pieces near us. That none of this ice

OF THE POLAR SEA.

203

I

survives the summer is evident, from tlie
rapidity of its decay ; and because no ice of
last year's formation was hanging on the
rocks. Whether any body of it exists ai a
distance from the shore, we could not de-
termine.

The land around Cape Barrow, and to
Detention Harbour, consists of steep craggy
mountains of granite, rising so abruptly from
the water's edge, as to admit few landing-
places even for a canoe. The higher parts
attain an elevation of fourteen or fifteen
hundred feet, and the whole is entirely
destitute of vegetation.

On the morning of the 27th, the ice re-
maining stationary at the entrance, we went
to the bottom of the harbour, and carried
the canoes and cargoes about a mile and a
half across the point of land that forms the
east side of it ; but the ice was not more
favourable there for our advancement than
at the place we had left. It consisted of
small pieces closely packed together by the
wind, extending along the shore, but leaving
a clear passage beyond the chain of islands

I

204

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

with which the whole of this coast is girt.
Indeed) when we left the harbour we had
little hope of finding a passage ; and the
principal object in moving was, to employ
the men, in order to prevent their reflecting
upon and discussing the dangers of our situ-
ation, which we knew they were too apt to
do when leisure permitted. Our observa-
tions place the entrance of Detention Har-
bour in latitude 67° 53' ^5'\ longitude
110° 41' 20" W., variation 40° 49' 34" E.
It is a secure anchorage, being sheltered
from the wind in every direction ; the bot-
tom is sandy.

July 28. — As the ice continued in the
same state, several of the men were sent
out to hunt ; and one of them fired no less
than four times at deer, but unfortunately
without success. It was satisfactory, how-
ever, to ascertain that the country was not
destitute of animals. We had the mortifi-
cation to discover that two of the bags of
pemmican, which was our principal reliance,
had become mouldy by wet. Our beef
too had been so badly cured, as to be

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^niiL:

wa 've^'^ ''imm-^m >• «^

^ ■>

OF THE POLAR SEA.

205

scarcely eatable, through our having been
compelled, from haste, to dry it by fire in-
stead of the sun. It was not, however, the
quality of our provision that gave us unea-
siness, but its diminution, and the utter
incapacity to obtain any addition. Seals
were the only animals that met our view at
this place, and these we could never ap-
proach.

Dr. Richardson discovered near the beach
a small vein of galena, traversing gneiss
rocks, and the people collected a quantity
of it, in the hope of adding to our stock of
balls ; but their endeavours to smelt it,
were, as may be supposed, ineffectual. The
drift timber on this part of the coast con-
sists of pine and taccamahac, (populus bal-
samifera\ most probably from Mackenzie's,
or some other river to the westward of the
Copper Mine. It all appears to have lain
long in the water, the bark being completely
worn off, and the ends of the pieces rubbed
perfectly smooth. There had been a sharp
frost in the night, which formed a pretty
thick crust of ice in a kettle of water that

'\

206

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

i'

Stood in the tents ; and for several nights
thin films of ice had appeared on the salt
water amongst the cakes of stream ice.*
Notwithstanding this state of temperature,
we were tormented by swarms of musqui-
toes ; we had persuaded ourselves that these
pests could not sustain the cold in the vici-
nity of the sea, but it appears they haunt
every part of this country in defiance of
climate. Mr. Back made an excursion to
a hill at seven or eight miles' distance, and
from its summit he perceived the ice close
to the shore as far as his view extended.

On the morning of the 29th the party at-
tended divine service. About noon the ice
appearing less compact, we embarked to
change our situation, having consumed all
the fuel within our reach. I'he wind came
off the land just as the canoes had started,
and we determined on attempting to force
a passage along the shore ; in which we
happily succeeded, after seven hours' labour
and much hazard to our frail vessels. The

* This is termed bay -ice by the Greenland- men.

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ights

salt
ice.*
iture,
squi-
these
vici-
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iCe of
ion to
:;, and

close
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ty at-
he ice
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led all

came
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force
;h we

abour
The

men.

OF THE POLAR S£A.

207

ice lay so close that the crews disembarked
on it, and eftected a passage by bearing
against the pieces with their poles ; but in
conducting the canoes through the narrow
channels thus formed, the greatest care was
requisite, to prevent the sharp projecting
points from breaking the bark. They for-
tunately received no material injury, though
they were split in two places.

At the distance of three miles, we came
to the entrance of a deep bay, whose bottom
was filled by a body of ice so compact as
to preclude the idea of a passage through
it ; whilst at the same time the traverse
across its mouth was attended with much
danger, from the approach of a large field
of ice, which was driving down before the
wind. The dread of further detention,
however, prevented us from hesitating ; and
we had the satisfaction of landing in an
hour and a half on the opposite shore, where
♦ve halted to repair the canoes and to dine.
I have named this bay after my friend Mr.
Daniel Moore, of Lincoln's Inn ; to whose
zeal for science, the Expedition was indebted

P

I

208

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

}

for the use of a most valuable chronometer.
Its shores are picturesque ; sloping hills
receding from the beach, and clothed with
verdure, bound its bottom and western side ;
and lofty cliffs of slate clay, with their inter-
vening grassy valleys, skirt its eastern bor-
der. Embarking at midnight, we pursued
our voyage without interruption, passing
between the Stockport and Marcet Islands
and the main, until six A.M. on July 30th,
when, having rounded Point Kater, we en-
tered Arctic Sound, and were again involved
in a stream of ice, but after considerable
delay extricated ourselves, and proceeded
towards the bottom of the inlet in search of
the mouth of a river, which we supposed it
to receive, from the change in the colour of
the water.

About ten A.M. we landed, to breakfast
on a small deer which St. Germain had
killed; and sent men in pursuit of some
others in sight, but with which they did not
come up. Re-embarking, we passed the
river without perceiving it, and entered a
deep arm of the sound, which I have named

- ^"^

OF THE POLAR SEA.

209

Baillie's Cove, in honour of a relative of
the lamented Mr. Hood. As it was too
late to return, we encamped, and by walk-
ing across the country discovered the river,
whose mouth being barred by low sandy
islands and banks, was not perceived when
we passed it. Course and distance from
Galena Point to this encampment were
S.E.^S. — forty-one miles.

From the accounts of Blackmeat and
Boileau at Fort Chipewyan, we considered
this river to be the Anatessy, and Cape
Barrow to be the projection which they
supposed to be the N.E. termination of
America. The outline of the coast, indeed,
bears some resemblance to the chart they
sketched ; and the distance of this river
from the Copper-Mine, nearly coincides
with what we estimated the Anatessy to be,
from their statements. In our subsequent
journey, however, across the barren grounds
we ascertained that this conjecture was
wrong, and that the Anatessy, which is
known to come from Rum Lake, must fall
into the sea to the eastward of this place.

VOL. III. p

^l\

p

210

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Our Stock of provision being now reduced
to eight days' consumption, it had become a
matter of the first importance to obtain a
supply, and as we had learned from Terre-
gannoeuck that the Esquimaux frequent the
rivers at this season, I determined on seek-
ing a communication with them here, in the
hope of obtaining relief for our present
wants, or even shelter for the winter, if the
season should prevent us from returning
either to the Hook's party or Fort Enter-
prise ; and I was the more induced to take
this step at this time, as several deer had
been seen to-day, and the river appeared
good for fishing : which led me to hope we
might support the party during our stay, if
not add to our stock by our own exertions
in hunting and fishing. Augustus, Junius,
and Hepburn, were therefore furnished with
the necessary presents, and desired to go
along the bank of the river as far as they
could, on the following day, in search of the
natives, to obtain provision and leather, as
well as information respecting the coast.

They started at four A.M., and at the

I y I

I

', as

the

OF THE POLAR SEA.

211

I

same time our hunters were sent off in
search of deer : and the rest of the party
proceeded in the canoes to the first cascade
in the river, at the foot of which we en-
camped, and set four nets. This cascade,
produced by a ridge of rocks crossing the
stream, is about three or four feet in height,
and about two hundred and fifty yards
wide. Its position by our observations in
latitude 67"" 19' 2S" N., longitude 109° W
30" W., variation 41° 43' 22", dip 88° 58'
48". I have named this river Hood, as a
small tribute to the iremory of our lamented
friend and companion. It is from three to
four hundred yards wide below the cascade,
but in many places very shallow. The
banks, bottom, and adjacent hills, are formed
of a mixture of sard and clay. The ground
was overspread with small willows and the
dwarf birch, both too diminutive for fuel ;
and the stream brought down no drift wood.
We were mortified to find the nets only
procured one salmon and five white fish,
and that we had to make another inroad
upon our dried meat.

p 2

212

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

t

August 1. — At two this morning the
hunters returned with two small deer and a
brown bear. Augustus and Junius arrived
at the same time, having traced the river
twelve miles fiirther up, without discover-
ing any vestige of inhabitants. We had
now an opportunity of gratifying our curi-
osity respecting the bear so much dreaded
by the Indians, and of whose strength and
ferocity we had heard such terrible ac-
counts. It proved to be a lean male of a
yellowish browi colour, and not longer than
a common black bear. It made a feeble
attempt to defend itself, and was easily de-
spatched. The flesh was brought to the
tent, but our fastidious voyagers supposing,
from its leanness, that the animal had been
sickly, declined eating it ; the officers, how-
ever, being less scrupulous, boiled the
paws, and found them excellent.

We embarked at ten A.M., and proceed-
ing down the river, took on board another
deer that had been killed by Credit last
evening. We then ran along the eastern
shore of Arctic Sound, distinguished by the

OF THE POLAR SEA.

213

name of Banks' Peninsula, in honour of the
late Right Honourable Sir Joseph Banks,
President of the Royal Society, and round-
ing Point WoUaston at its eastern extremity,
opened another extensive sheet of water ;
and the remainder of the afternoon was
spent in endeavouring to ascertain, from the
tops of the hills, whether it was another
bay, or merely a passage enclosed by a
chain of islands. Appearances rather fa-
vouring the latter opinion, we determined
on proceedi?.g through it to the southward.
During the delay four more deer were
killed, all young and lean. It appeared
that the coast is pretty well frequented by
rein-deer at this season ; but it was rather
singular, that hitherto we had killed none,
(excepting the first) but young ones of last
season, which were all too lean to have
been eaten by any but persons who had no
choice.

We paddled along the western shore with
the intention of encamping, but were pre-
vented by the want of drift wood on the
beach. This induced us to make a traverse

214

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

to an island, where we put up at midnight,
having found a small bay, whose shores
furnished us with a little fire-wood. A
heavy gale came on from the westward, at-
tended with constant rain, and one of the
squalls overthrew our tents. The course
and distance made this day were north-east
sixteen miles and a half. I may here men-
tion, that Arctic Sound appeared the most
convenient, and perhaps the best place for
ships to anchor that we had seen along the
coast; at this season especially, when they
might increase their stock of provision, if
provided with good marksmen. Deer are
numerous in its vicinity, musk-oxen also
may be found up Hood's River, and the
fine sandy bottom of the bays promises
favourably for fishing with the seine. The
hills on the western side are even in their
outline and slope gradually to the water's
edge. The rocks give place to an alluvial
sandy soil, towards the bottom of the
Sound; but on Banks' Peninsula rocky
eminences again prevail, which are rugged
and uneven, but intersected by valleys, at

k. *

OF THE POLAR SEA.

215

this time green; along their base is a fine
sandy beach. From Point Wollaston to
our encampment the coast is skirted with
trap cliffs, which have often a columnar
form, and are very difficult of access.
These cliffs lie in ranges parallel to the
shore, and the deer that we billed were
feeding in small marshy grassy pints that
lie in the valleys between them.

Being detained by the continuance of the
gale, on the 2d of August some men were
sent out to hunt, and the officers visited
the tops of the highest hills, to ascertain
the best channels to be pursued. The
wind abating, at ten P.M., we embarked
and paddled roimd the southern end of the
island, and continued our course to the
south-east. Much doubt at this time pre-
vailed as to the land on the right being the
main shore, or merely a chain of islands.
The latter opinion was strengthened by the
broken appearance of the land, and the ex-
tensive view we 1 ad up Brown's Channel,
(named after my friend Mr. Robert Brown,)
the mouth of which we passed, and were in

216

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

\

some apprehension of being led away from
the main shore ; and, perhaps, after passing
through a group of islands, of coming to a
traverse greater than we durst venture upon
in canoes ; on the other hand, the continu-
ous appearance of the land on the north
side of the channel, and its tending to the
southward excited the fear that we were
entering a deep inlet.

In this state of doubt we landed often,
and endeavoured, from the summits of the
highest hills adjoining the shore, to ascer-
tain the true nature of the coast, but in
vain, and we continued paddling through
the channel all night against a fresh breeze,
which, at half-past four, increased to a vio-
lent gale, and compelled us to land. The
gale diminished a short time after noon on
the 3d, and permitted us to re-embark and
continue our voyage until four P.M., when
it returned with its former violence, and
finally obliged us to encamp, having come
twenty-four miles on a south-east three-
quarter south course.

From the want of drift wood to make a

1

OF THE POLAR SEA.

217

fire we had fasted all day, and were under
the necessity, in the evening, of serving out
pemmican, which was done with much re-
luctance, especially as we had some fresh
deers' meat remaining. The inlet, when
viewed from a high hill adjoining to our
encampment, exhibited so many arms, that
the course we ouglit to pursue was more
uncertain than ever. It was absolutely ne-
cessary, however, to see the end of it before
we could determine that it was not a strait.
Starting at three A.M., on the 4th, we
paddled the whole day through channels,
from two to five or six miles wide, all tend-
ing to the southward. In the course of the
day's voyage we ascertained that the land
which we had seen on our right since yes-
terday morning, consisted of several large
islands which have been distinguished by
the names of Goulburn, Elliott, and Young;
but the land on our left preserved its un-
broken appearance, and when we encamped,
we were still uncertain whether it was the
eastern side of a deep sound or merely a
large island. It differed remarkably from

\(

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218

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

the main shore, being very rugged, rocky,
and sterile, whereas the outline of the main
on the opposite side was even, and its hills
covered with a comparatively good sward
of grass, exhibiting little naked rock.
There was no drift timber, but the shores
near the encampment were strewed with
small pieces of willow, which indicated our
vicinity to the mouth of a river. This fuel
enabled us to make a hearty supper from a
small deer killed this evening.

The shallows we passed this day were
covered with shoals of capelin, the angmag-
gociik of the Esquimaux. It was known
to Augustus, who informed us that it fre-
quents the coast of Hudson's Bay, and is
delicate eating. The course and distance
made was, south by east-half-east, thirty-
three miles.

After paddling twelve miles in the morn-
ing of the 5th, we had the mortification to
find the inlet terminated by a river; the
size of which we could not ascertain, as the
entrance was blocked by shoals. Its mouth
lies in latitude 66° 30' N., longitude 107^

\

OF THE rOLAR SEA.

219

•ty-

53' W. I liave named this stream Back, as
a mark of my friendship for my associate.*
We were somewhat consoled for the loss of
time in exploring this inlet, by the success
of Junius in killing a musk-ox, the first we
had seen on the coast; and afterwards by
the acquisition of the flesh of a bear, that
was shot as we were returning up the
eastern side in the evening. The latter
proved to be a female, in very excellent
condition ; and our Canadian voyagers,
whose appetite for fat meat is insatiable,
were delighted.

We encampe 1 on the shores of a sandy
bay, and set the nets ; and finding a quantity
of dried willows on the beach, we were
enabled to cook the bear's flesh, which was
superior to any meat we tasted on the coast.
The water fell two feet at this place during
the night. Our nets produced a great variety
of fish, namely, a salmon-trout, some round

* From subsequent conversation with the Copper
Indians, we were inclined to suppose this may be the
Thlueetessy, described by Black-meat, mentioned in
a former part of the narrative.

220

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

fish, tittameg, bleak, star-fish, several her-
rings, and a flat fish resembling plaice, but
covered on the back with horny excres-
cences.

On the 6th we were detained in the
encampment by stormy weather until five
P.M., when we embarked, and paddled
along the northern shore of the inlet; the
weather still continuing foggy, but the wind
moderi te. Observing on the beach a she
bear with three young ones, we landed a
party to attack them ; but being approached
without due caution, they took the alarm
and scaled a precipitous rocky hill, with a
rapidity that baffled all pursuit. At eight
o'clock, the *bg changing into rain, we
encamped. Many seals were seen this day,
but as they kept in deep water, we did not
fire at them.

On August 7th the atmosphere was
charged with fog and rain all the day, but
as the wind was moderate we pursued our
journey ; our situation, however, was very
unpleasant, being quite wet and without
room, to stretch a limb, much less to obtain

OF THE POLAR SEA.

221

warmth by exercise. We passed a cove,
which I have named after my friend Mr.
W. H. Tinney, and proceeded along the
coast until five P.M., when we put up on a
rocky point nearly opposite to our encamp-
ment on the 3d, having come twenty-three
miles on a north-north-west course.

We were detained on the 8th by a
northerly gale, which blew violently through-
out the day, attended by fog and rain.
Some of the men went out to hunt, but they
saw no other animal than a white wolf, which
could not be approached. The fresh meat
being expended, a little pemmican was
served out this evening.

The gale abated on the morning of the
9th ; and the sea, which it had raised, hav-
ing greatly subsided, we embarked at seven
A.M., and after paddling three or four
miles, opened Sir J. A- Gordon's Bay, into
which we penetrated thirteen miles, and
then discovered from the summit of a hill
that it would be vain to proceed in this
direction, in search of a passage out of the
inlet.

222

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

Our breakfast diminished our provision
to two bags of pemmican and a single meal
of dried meat. The men began to appre-
hend absolute want of food, and we had to
listen to their gloomy forebodings of the
deer entirely quitting the coast in a few
days. As we were embarking, however, a
large bear was discovered on the opposite
shore, which we had the good fortune to
kill ; and the sight of this fat meat relieved
their fears for the present. Dr. Richardson
found in the stomach of this animal the
remains of a seal, several marmots {arctomys
Richardsonii)f a large quantity of the liquo-
rice root of Mackenzie (Jiedysarum), which
is common on these shores, and some ber-
There was also intermixed with these

ries.

substances a small quantity of grass.

We got again into the main inlet, and
paddled along its eastern shore until forty
minutes after eight A.M., when we encamped
in a small cove. We found a single log of
drift wood, it was pine, and sufficiently
large to enable us to cook a portion of the

OF THE POLAR SEA.

223

bear, which had a slight fishy taste, but was
deemed very palatable.

August 10. — We followed up the east
border of the inlet about twenty-four miles,
and at length emerged into the open sea; a
body of islands to the westward concealing
the channel by which we had entered. Here
our progress was arrested by returning bad
weather. We killed a bear, and its young
cub of this year, on the beach near our
encampment. We heartily congratulated
ourselves at having arrived at the eastern
entrance of this inlet, which had cost us nine
invaluable days in exploring. It contains
several secure harbours, especially near the
mouth of Back's River, where there is a
sandy bottom in forty fathoms.

On the 3d and 4th of August we ob-
served a fall of more than two feet in the
water during the night. There are various
irregular and partial currents in the inlet,
which may be attributed to the wind. I
have distinguished it by the name of
Balhurst's Inlet, after the noble Secretary
of State, under whose orders I had the

224

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

%

(.\

■I

honour to act. It run» about seventy-six
miles south-east from Cape Everitt, but in
coasting its shores we went about one hun-
dred and seventy-four geographical miles.
It is remarkable that none of the Indians
with whom we had spoken mentioned this
inlet ; and we subsequently learned, that in
their journeys they strike across from the
mouth of one river to the mouth of another,
without tracing the intermediate line of
coast.

August 11. — ' ^ inbarking at five A.M. we
rounded Point Evtr itt, and then encountered
a strong breeze and heavy sweU, which, by
causing the canoes to pitch very much,
greatly impeded our progress. Some deer
being seen grazing in a valley near the
beach, we landed, and sent St. Germain and
Adam in pursuit of them, who soon killed
three, which were very small and lean.
Their appearance, however, quite revived
the spirits of our men, who had suspected
that the deer had retired to the woods. It
would appear, from our not having seen any
in passing along the shores of Bathurst's

h

OF THE POLAR SEA.

22b

Inlet, that at this season they confine them-
selves to the sea-coast and the islands.
The magpie-berries (arbutus alpina) were
fount', quite ripe at this place, and very
abundant on the acclivities of the hills.
We also descended the highest hill and
gained a view of a distant chain of islands,
extending as far as the eye could reach, and
perceived a few patches of ice still lingering
round to some of them, but in every other
part the sea was quite open. Resuming
our voyage after noon, we proceeded along
the coast, which is fringed by islands, and
at five P.M. entered another bay, where we
were for some time involved in our late dif-
ficulties by the intricacy of the passages ;
but we cleared them in the afternoon, and
encamped near the northern entrance of the
bay, at a spot which had recently been
visited by a small party of Esquimaux, as
the remains of some eggs containing young
were lying beside some half-burnt fire- wood.
There were also several piles of stones put
up by them. I have named this bay after
my friend. Captain David Buchan, of the

VOL. III.

Q

22G

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

to be a safe

Royal Navy. It appears
anchorage, well sheltered from the wind
and sea by islands; the bottom is sandy,
the shores high, and composed of red sand-
stone. Two deer were seen on its beach,
but could not be approached. The dis-
tance we made to-day was eighteen miles
and three quarters.

Embarking at four on the morning of the
12th, we proceeded against a fresh piercing
north-east wind, which raised the waves to
a height that quite terrified our people,
accustomed only to the navigation of rivers
and lakes. We were obliged, however, to
persevere in our advance, feeling, as we did,
that the short season for our operations was
hastening away; but after rounding Cape
Croker the wind became so strong that we
could proceed no further. The distance we
had made was only six miles on a north-east
by east course. The shore on which we
encamped is formed of the debris of red
sand-stone, and is destitute of vegetation.
The beach furnished no drift-wood, and we
dispensed with our usual meal rather than

an . I

OP THE POLAR SEA.

227

expend our pemmican. Several deer were
seen, but the hunters could not approach
them ; they killed two swans. We observed
the latitude 68° T 20", where we had halted
to breakfast this morning.

August 13. — Though the wind was not
much diminished, we were urged, by the
want of fire-wood, to venture upon pro-
ceeding. We paddled close to the shore
for some miles, and then ran before the
breeze with reefed sails, scarcely two feet
in depth. Both the canoes received much
water, and one of them struck twice on
sunken rocks. At the end of eighteen
miles we halted to breakfast in a bay, which
I have named after Vice-Admiral Sir Wil-
liam Johnstone Hope, one of the Lords of
the Admiralty.

We found here a considerable quantity of
small willows, such as are brought down by
the rivers we had hitherto seen ; and hence
we judged, that a river discharges itself into
the bottom of this bay. A paddle was also
found, which Augustus, on examination,
declared to be made after the fashion of the

Q 2

228

JOURNEY TO THE SHOHES

White Goose Esquimaux, a tribe with whom
his countrymen had had some trading com-
munication, as has been mentioned in a
former part of the Narrative.

This morning we passed the embouchure
of a pretty large stream, and saw the ves-
tiges of an Esquimaux encampment, not
above a month old. Having obtained the
latitude 68° 6' 40" N., we recommenced our
voyage under sail, taking the precaution to
embark all the pieces of willow we could
collect, as we had found the drift-wood
become more scarce as we advanced. Our
course was directed to a distant point, which
we supposed to be a cape, and the land
stretching to the westward of it to be
islands ; but we soon found ourselves in an
extensive bay, from which no outlet could
be perceived but the one by which we had
entered. On examination, however, from
the top of a hill, we perceived a winding
shallow passage running to the north-west,
which we followed for a short time, and
then encamped, having come twenty-three
miles north by east half east.

I;

OF THE POLAR SEA.

229

:'

Some articles left by the Esquimaux at-
tracted our attention : we found a winter
sledge raised upon four stones, with some
snow-shovels, and a small piece of whale-
bone. An ice-chisel, a knife and some
beads were left at this pile. The shores of
this bay, which I have named after Sir
George Warrender, are low and clayey, and
the country for many miles is level, and
much intersected with water ; but we had
not leisure to ascertain whether they were
branches of the bay or fresh water lakes.
Some white geese were seen this evening,
aud some young gray ones were caught on
the beach; being unable to fly. We fired
at two rein-deer, but without success.

On August 14th we paddled the whole
day along the northern shores of the sound,
returning towards its mouth. The land
which we were now tracing is generally so
flat, that it could not be descried from the
canoes at the distance of four miles, and is
invisible from the opposite side of the sound,
otherwise a short traverse might have saved
us some days. The few eminences that are

230

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

on this side were mistake:, ^or islands when
seen from the opposite shoie ; they are for
the most part cliffs of basalt, and are not
above one hundred feet high ; the subjacent
strata are of white sand-stone. The rocks
are mostly confined to the capes and shores,
the soil inland being flat, clayey, and barren.
Most of the headlands shewed traces of
visits from the Esquimaux, but none of
them recent. Many ducks were seen, be-
longing to a species termed by the voyagers
from their cry, " caccawees." We also saw
some gray geese and swans. The only
seal we procured during our voyage, was
killed this day; it happened to be blind,
and our men, imagining it to be in bad
health, would not taste the flesh ; we, how-
ever, were less nice.

We encamped at the end of twenty-four
miles* march, on the north-west side of a
bay, to which I have given the name of my
friend Capt. Parry, now employed in the
interesting research for a North- West Pas-
sage. Drift wood had become very scarce,
and we found none near the encampment;

OF THE POLAR SEA.

231

'

a fire, however, was not required, as we
served out pemmican for supper, and the
evening was unusually warm.

On the following morning the breeze was
fresh and the waves rather high. In pad-
dling along the west side of Parry's Bay,
we saw several deer, but owing to the open-
ness of the country, the hunters could not
approach them. They killed, however, two
swans that were moulting, several cranes,
and many gray geese. We procured also
some caccawees, which were then moulting,
and assembled in immense flocks. In the
evening, having rounded Point Beechy, and
passed Kurd's Islands, we were exposed
to much inconvenience and danger from a
heavy rolling sea; the canoes receiving
many severe blows, and shipping a good
deal of water, which induced us to encamp
at five P.M. opposite to Cape Croker,
which we had passed on the morning of the
12th; the channel which lay between our
situation and it, being about seven miles
wide. We had now reached the northern
point of entrance into this sound, which I

232

JOURNEY TO THE SItOUES

n

have named in honour of Lord Viscount
Melville, the first Lord of the Admiralty. It
is thirty miles wide from east to west, and
twenty from north to south ; and in coasting
it we had sailed eighty-seven and a quarter
geographical miles. Shortly after the tents
were pitched, Mr. Back reported from the
steersmen that both canoes had sustained
material injury during this day's voyage. I
found on examination that fifteen timbers
of the first canoe were broken, some of them
in two places, and that the second canoe
was so loose in the frame that its timbers
could not be bound in the usual secure
manner, and consequently there was danger
of its bark separating from the gunwales if
exposed to a heavy sea. Distressing as
were these circumstances, they gave me
less pain than the discovery that our people,
who had hitherto displayed, in following us
through dangers and difHculties no less
novel than appalling to them, a courage be-
yond our expectation, now felt serious
apprehensions for their safety, which so
possessed their minds that they were not

OF THE POLAR SEA.

233

i

restrained even by the presence of their of-
ficers from expressing them. Their fears,
we imagined, had been principally excited
by the interpreters, St. Germain and Adam,
who from the outset had foreboded every
calamity; and we now strongly suspected
that their recent want of success in hunting
had proceeded from an intentional relaxa-
tion in their efforts to kill deer- in order that
the want of provision might compel us to
put a period to our voyage.

I must now mention that many concurrent
circumstances had caused me, during the
few last days, to meditate on the approach
of this painful necessity. The strong breezes
we had encountered for some days, led me
to fear that the season was breaking up,
and severe weather would soon ensue, which
we could not sustain in a country destitute
of fuel. Our stock of provision was now
reduced to a quantity of pemmican only
sufficient for three days' consumption, and
the prospect of increasing it was not encou-
raging, for though rein-deer were seen, they
could not be easily approached on the level

■♦<

!|

'I'

S» 'I

234

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

shores we were now coasting ; besides it
was to be apprehended they would soon
migrate to the south. It was evident that
the time spent in exploring the Arctic and
Melville Sounds, and Bathurst's Inlet, had
precluded the hope of reaching Repulse
Bay, which at the outset of the voyage we
had fondly cherished ; and it was equally
obvious that as our distance from any of
the trading establishments would increase
as we proceeded, the hazardous traverse
across the barren grounds, which we should
have to make, if compelled to abandon the
canoes upon any part of the coast, would
become greater.

I this evening communicated to the of-
ficers my sentiments on these points, as
well as respecting our return, and was happy
to find that their opinions coincided with
my own. We were all convinced of the
necessity of putting a speedy termination to
our advance, as our hope of meeting the
E'jquimaux and procuring provision from
them, could now scarcely be retained ; but
yet we were desirous of proceeding, until

,

■ ty"^^'*-

V

OF THE POLAR SEA.

a35

of-

.

the land should be seen trending again to
the eastward ; that we might be satisfied of
its separation from what we had conceived,
in passing from Cape Barrow to Bathurst's
Inlet, to be a great chain of islands. As it
was needful, however, at all events, to set a
limit to our voyage, I announced my deter-
mination of returning after four days' ex-
amination, unless, indeed, we should previ-
ously meet the Esquimaux, and be enabled
to make some arrangement for passing the
winter with them. This communication
was joyfully received by the men, and we
hoped that the industry of our hunters be-
ing once more excited, we should be able to
add to our stock of provision.

It may here be remarked that we ob-
served the first regular return of the tides
in Warrender's and Parry's Bays ; but their
set could not be ascertained. The rise of
water did not amount to more than two feet.
Course to-day south one quarter east — nine
miles and a quarter.

August 16. — Some rain fell in the night,
but the morning was unusually fine. We

i

236

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

' ♦

set forward at five A.M., and the men pad-
dled cheerfully along the coast for ten miles,
when a dense fog caused us to land on
Slate-clay Point. Here we found d ore
traces of the Esquimaux, and the skull of a
man placed between two rocks. The fog
dispersed at noon, and we discerned a group
of islands to the northward, which I have
named after Vice- Admiral Sir George Cock-
burn, one of the Lords of the Admiralty.
Re-embarking, we rounded the point, and
entered Walker's Bay, (so called after my
friend Admiral Walker,) where, as in other
instances, the low beach which lay between
several high trap cliffs, could not be distin-
guished until we had coasted down the east
side nearly to the bottom of the bay. When
the continuity of the land was perceived, we
crossed to the western shore, and on land-
ing, discovered a channel leading through a
group of islands. Having passed through
this channel, we ran under sail by the Porden
Islands, across Riley's Bay, and rounding
a cape which now bears the name of my
lamented friend Captain Flinders, had the

A

OF THE POLAR SEA.

237

pleasure to find the coast trending north-
north-east, with the sea in the offing unusu-
ally clear of islands ; a circumstance which
afforded matter of wonder to our Canadians,
who had not previously had an uninterrupted
view of the ocean.

Our course was continued along the coast
until eight P.M. when a change in the wind
and a threatening thunder squall induced us
to encamp ; but the water was so shallow,
that we found some difficulty in approach-
ing the shore. Large pieces of drifl-wood
gave us assurance that we had finally escaped
from the bays. Our tents were scarcely
pitched before we were assailed by a heavy
squall and rain, which was succeeded by l
violent gale from west-north-west, which
thrice overset the tents during the night.
The wind blew with equal violence on the
following day, and the sea rolled furiously
upon the beach. The Canadians had now
an opportunity of witnessing the effect of a
storm upon the sea ; and the sight increased
their desire of quitting it.

Our hunters were sent out, and saw many

.4

i

!

i
1

'

238

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

deer, but the flatness of the country defeated
their attempts to approach them ; they
brought, however, a few unfledged geese.
As there was no appearance of increasing
our stock of provision, the allowance was
limited to a handful of pemmican, and a
small portion of portable soup to each man
per day. The thermometer this afternoon
stood at 41°. The following observations
were obtained : latitude 68° 18' 50" N., lon-
gitude 110° 5' 16" W.; but 108° 25' 00" W.
was used in the construction of the chart,
as the chronometers were found, on our re-
turn to Hood's River, to have altered their
rates ; variation 44° 15' 46" E., and dip of
the needle 89° 31' 12".

On August 18th the stormy weather ana
sea continuing, there was no prospect of
our being able to embark. Dr. E ^'chard-
son, Mr. Back, and I, therefore, set out on
foot to discover whether the land within a
day's march inclined more to the east. We
went from ten to twelve miles along the
coast, which continued flat, and kept the
same direction as the encampment. The

.^•r---^

33

ry defeated
»em ; they
ged geese.

increasing
wance was
2an, and a
► each man

afternoon
>servations
)"N.,lon-
!5' 00" W.
the chart,
m our re-
red their
id dip of

ither ami
)spect of
Bichard-
it out on
within a
1st. We
ong the
:ept the
t. The

i

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•^

^

.fi l^

c :

i

^L

-1

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^

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^

t =

&^

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►•^

p;

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&0

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• ,;

2

y '/

=

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;?

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@ ':

-^'

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fl. <

TC'

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^'

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.—

7 '

!H

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&,'

^

fl

►..

fH

n'>

^^<l

^^

H

^' ^

^■r^

■g ft.

Id '->

« N

k'^

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iJ^JiT

mohl clistattt laad wo saw h:ul the sauie ht»ai •
/Ui{ noi ih-nonh-east, and appeal <*(! like twi^
i?iland; , vviijch we estimated U) hv six ui
"<!»vei» miliitt oif'; the sluirc on their sido
,.^,.,^^p,.'.. ti^nded" mnrc tf> tho oast, so that
:•» iH/-: "' ; T-jfnai:.:>in, for so this

; die puch of a lou-
capo.
Aui^u^tus killed a deer in the .ifiernoon,
but il y not Mv to f!nd it. Tlie

hunteti- found the h;*rro'.vs' of n nin-rAii

t)i ge(^e (»«. er the leatH, living t'^ rJie

suiithward. I'ht lowest ternperature to-dav
was ^8^.

Tb«iti|.; >>. vv from the chart.

t'ui?: tW p! iuoijui i »iinr I'nrnatc'dn ik onK
six ' ' »md a liaU to the jf the

Um

a?.iiie%j

>

^"1?

< i

n —

OF THE POL All SEA,

239

most distant land we saw had the same bear-
ing north-north-east, and appeared Hke two
islands, which we estimated to be six or
seven miles off; the shore on their side
seemingly tended more to the east, so that
it is probable Point Turnagain, for so this
spot was named, forms the pitch of a low
flat cape.

Augustus killed a deer in the afternoon,
but the men were not able to find it. The
hunters found the burrows of a nurber of
white foxes, an I Hepburn killed on of
these animals, which proved excellent eat-
ing, equal to the young geese, with which it
was boiled, and far superior to the lean
deer we had upon the coast. La^ge Hocks
of geese passed over the tents, flying to the
southward. The lowest temperature to-day
was 38°.

Though it will appear from the chart,
that the position of Point Turnagain is only
six degrees and a half to the east of the
mouth of the Copper-Mine River, we sailed,
in tracing the deeply-indented coast, five
hundred and fifty-five geographic miles,

240

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

j

which is little less than the direct distance
between the Copper- Mine River and Re-
pulse Bay; supposing the latter to be in the
longitude assigned to it by Middlcton.

When the many perplexing incidents
which occurred during the survey of the
coast are considered, in connexion with the
shortness of the period during which ope-
rations of the kind can be carried on, and
the distance we had to travel before we
could gain a place of shelter for the winter,
I trust it will be judged that we prosecuted
the enterprise as far as was prudent, and
abandoned it only under a well-founded
conviction that a further advance would en-
danger the lives of the whole party, and
prevent the knowledge of what had been
done from reaching England. The active
assistance I received from the officers, in
contending with the fears of the men, de-
mands my warmest gratitude.

Our researches, as far as they have gone,
favour the opinion of those who contend for
the practicability of a North- West Passage.
The general line of coast probably runs

OF THE POLAU SEA.

241

stance
d Re-
in the

;idents
of the
ith the
h ope-
3n, and
ore we
winter,
secuted
nt, and
Dunded
uld en-
y, and
been

active
;ers, in

jn, de-
le gone,
lend for

assage.
jy runs

east and west, nearly in the latitude assigned
to Mackenzie's River, the Sound into which
Kotzebue entered, and Repulse Bay; and
I think there is little doubt of a continued
sea, in or about that line of direction. The
existence of whales too, on this part of the
coast, evidenced by the whalebone we found
in Esquimaux Cove, may be considered as
an argument for an open sea; and a con-
nexion with Hudson's Bay is rendered more
probable from the same kind of fish abound-
ing on the coasts we visited, and on those
to the north of Churchill River. I allude
more particularly to the Capelin or Salmo
Arcticus, which we found in large shoals in
Bathurst's Inlet, and which not only abounds,
as Augustus told us, in the bays in his
country, but swarms in the Greenland firths*.
The portion of the sea over which we
passed is navigable for vessels of any size ;
the ice we met, particularly after quitting
Detention Harbour, would not have arrested
a strong boat. The chain of islands affords

* Arctic Zoology, vol. ii. p. 394.
VOL, III. R

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

j;

Hi

►vi !

shelter from all heavy seas, and there arc
good harbours at convenient distances. I
entertain, indeed, sanguine hopes that the
skill and exertions of my friend Captain
Parry will soon render this question no
longer problematical. His task is doubtless
an arduous one, and, if ultimately success-
ful, may occupy two and perhaps three
seasons; but confiding, as I do from per-
sonal knowledge, in his perseverance and
talent for surmounting difficulties, the
strength of his ships, and the abundance of
provisions with which they are stored, I
have very little apprehension of his safety.
As I understand his object was to keep the
coast of America close on board, he will
find in the spring of the year, before the
breaking up of the ice can permit him to
purs\ie his voyage, herds of deer flocking
in abundance to all parts of the coast,
which may be procured without difficulty;
and, even later in the season, additions to
his stock of provision may be obtained on
many parts of the coast, should circum-
stances give him leisure to send out hunting

OF THE POLAR SEA.

243

rc are
es. I
at the
aptain
on no
ibtless
iccesa-
three
11 per-
ice and
s, the
ance of
)re(l, I
safety,
eep the
he will
ore the
him to
locking
coast,
ficulty \
tions to
ned on
ircum-
lunting

parties. With the trawl or seine nets also
he may almost every where get abundance
of fish, even without retarding his progress.
Under these circumstances I do not con-
ceive that he runs any hazard of wanting
provisions, should his voyage be prolonged
even beyond the latest period of time which
is calculated upon. Drift timber may be
gathered at many places in considerable
quantities, and there is a fair prospect of
his opening a communication with the Es-
quimaux, who come down to the coast to
kill seals in the spring, previous to the ice
breaking up ; and from whom, if he suc-
ceeds in conciliating their good-will, he may
obtain provision, and much useful assist-
ance.

If he makes for Copper-Mine River, as
he probably will do, he will not find it in
the longitude as laid down on the charts ;
but he will probably find, what would be
more interesting to him, a post which we
erected on the 26th August at the mouth
of Hood's River, which is nearly, as will
appear hereafter, in that longitude, with a

r2

. „ .J l»i"4 J ■«. T ' ^.5

,7

244

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

flag upon it, and a letter at the foot of it,
which may convey to him some useful in-
formation. It is possible, however, that
he may keep outside of the range of islands
which skirt this part of the coast.

OF THE POLAR SEA.

245

of it,
111 in-
, that
elands

CHAPTER XII.

Journcq across the Barren Grounds — Difficulty and
deUni in crossing Copper-Mine lliver — Melancholy
and fatal results thereof — Extreme Misery of the
whole Party — Murder of Mr, Hood -«- Death of
several of the Canadians — Desolate State of Fort
Enterprise — Distress suffered at that Place — Dr,
Richardson^s Narrative — Mr. Back's Narrative —
Conclusion,

August 17. — My original intention, when-
ever the season should compel us to relin-
(juish the s\irvey, had been to return* by the
Copper-Mine River, and, in pursuance of
my arrangement with the Hook, to travel
to Slave Lake through the line of woods
extending thither by the Great Bear and
Marten Lakes ; but our scanty stock of pro-
vision and the length of the voyage rendered
it necessary to make for a nearer place.
We had already found that the country,
between Cape Barrow and the Copper-Mine

^PMCSqa

2i6

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

n

River, would not supply our wants, and this
it seemed probable would now be still" more
the case ; besides, at this advanced season,
we expected the frequekit recurrence of
gales, which would cause great detention,
if not danger, in proceeding along that very
rocky part of the coast.

i determined, therefore, to make at once
for Arctic Sound, where we had found the
animals more numerous than at any other
place ; and entering Hood's River, to ad-
vance up that stream as far as it was navi-
gable, and then to construct small canoes
out of the materials of the larger ones,
which could be carried in crossing the
barren grounds to Fort Enterprise.

August 19. — We were almost beaten out
of our comfortless abodes by rain during
the night, and this morning the gale con-
tinued without diminution. The thermo-
meter fell to SS'^, Two men were sent with
Junius to search for the deer which Augustus
had killed. Junius returned in the evening,
bringing part of the meat, but owing to the
thickness of the weather, his companions

li

OF THE POLAR SEA.

2i7

parted from him and did not make their
appearance. Divine service was read. On
the 20th we were presented with the most
chiUing prospect, the small pools of water
being frozen over, the ground covered with
snow, and the thermometer at the freezing
point at mid-day. Flights of geese were
passing to the southward. The wind, how-
ever, was more moderate, having changed
to the eastward. Considerable anxiety
prevailing respecting Belanger and Michel,
the two men who strayed from Junius yes-
terday, the rest were sent out to look for
them. The search was successful, and
they all returned in the evening. The
stragglers were much fatigued, and had suf-
fered severely from the cold, one of t!iem
having his thighs frozen, and what under our
present circumstances was most grievous,
they had thrown away all the meat. I'he
wind during the night returned to the
north -west quarter, blew mere violently
than ever, and raised a very turbulent sea.
The next day did not improve our condi-
tion, the snow remained on the ground, and

%

if

2i8

JOURNEY TO THE SHOFTS

fi

the small pools were frozen. Our ViMtiters
were sent out, but they returned after a
fatiguing day's march witliout having seen
any animals. " 7e made a scanty meal off
a handful of pemmican, after which only
half a bag remained.

The wind abated after midnight, and the
sarf diminished rapidly, which caused us to
be on the alert at a very early hour on the
,^2d, but we had to wait until six A.M. for
the return of Augustus, who had continued
out all night on an unsuccessful pursuit of
deer. It appears that he had walked a few
miles farther along the coast than the party
had done on the 18th, and, from a sketch
he drew on the sand, we were confirmed in
our former opinion, that the shore inclined
more to the eastward beyond Point Turna-
gain. He also drew a river of considerable
size, that discharges ka waters into Walker's
Bay; on the bank «■' which stream he saw
a piece of wood, such as the Esquimaux
use in producing fire, and other marks so
fresh, *hdit he suppos'^ d they had recently
visited the spot. We therefore left seve»*?!

\i

OF THE POLAR PEA.

249

Tf?

iron materials for them ; and embat king
without delay, prepared to retrace our
steps.* Our men, cheered by the prospect
of returning, showed the utmost alacrity;
and, paddling with unusual vigour, carried
us across Riley's and Walker's Bays, a dis-
tance of twenty miles, before noon, when
we landed on Slate-Clay Point, as the wind
had freshened too much to permit us to
continue the voyage. The whole party
went to hunt, but returned without success
in the evening, drenched with the heavy
rain which commenced soon after they had
set out. Several deer were seen, but could
not be approached in this naked country ;
and as our stock of pemmican did not admit
of serving out two meals, we went dinner-
less to bed.

Soon after our departure this day, a
sealed tin-case, sufficiently buoyant to float,

* It is a curious coincidence that our ExpediLion
left Point Turnagain on August 22d, — en the same
day that Captain Parry sailed out of^'Rci-ulse Bay.
The parties were then distant from each other 539
miles.

«^0 JOURNEY 10 ^„^ ^^^^^^

of the most CO?' T '^"'«'' ""'^ *^ P^'^'ion
blew off Se Ti r ^""'" '^'''« -'-I
and as the sea s^^K """'"' '^^^ '""°<'th.

-lands thanTaVinr"'"^ ^'-

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past rSiTefs sr t?rpir '^

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and heavy sea T^ '' " ''^""8 ^«d

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mg. absorbed every otLrM *''">bour-

*e a,ost powerfirl""'" «*erwise

have inducSthet toTr"" '^°"''' »»'
verse. It was wkh '" ^"^"'P* «n<=h a tra-

that the canoe, » f '^""°^' '^'^'^ulty
canoes were kept from turning

>RES

ning a short
1 the position
• The wind
was smooth,
•re free from
e was every
>ff the shore
^ave before
he circum-
ng the only
^ the wood
o set to the

used us to
> P.M. we
' launched
sen miles
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of food,
n labour-
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>uld not
ch a tra-
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OF THE POLAR SEX.

251

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their broadsides to the waves, though we
sometimes steered with all tlie paddles.
One of them narrowly escaped being overset
by this accident, which occurred in a mid-
channel, where the waves were so high that
the mast-head of our canoe was often hid
from the other, though it was sailing within
hail.

The traverse, however, was made; we
were then near a high rocky lee shore, on
which a heavy surf was beating. The wind
being on the beam, the canoes drifted fast
to leeward; and on rounding a point the
recoil of the sea from the rocks was so
great, that tliey were with difficulty kept
from foundering. We looked in vain for a
sheltered bay to land in; but at length,
being unable to weather another point, we
were obliged to put ashore on the open
beach, which fortunately was sandy at this
spot. The debarkation was effected, fortu-
nately, without further injury than splitting
the head of the second canoe, which was
easily repaired.

Our encampment being near the spot

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252

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

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where we killed the deer on t]ie 11th,
almost the whole party went out to hunt,
but returned in the evening without having
seen any game. The berries, however,
were ripe and plentiful, and, with the addi-
tion of some country tea, furnished a supper.
There were some showers in the afternoon,
and the weather was cold, the thermometer
being 42°, but the evening and night were
calm and fine. It may be remarked that
the musquitoes disappeared when the late
gales commenced.

August 24t, — Embarking at three A.M.,
we stretched across the eastern entrance of
Bathurst's Inlet, and arrived at an island,
which I have named after the Right Hon.
Colonel Barry, of Newton Barry. Some
deer being seen on the beach, the hunters
went in pursuit of them, and succeeded in
killing three females, which enabled us to
save our last remaining meal of pemmican.
They saw also some fresh tracks of musk-
oxen on the banks of a small stream which
flowed into a lake in the centre of the island.
These animals must have crossed a channel

2 11th,
o hunt,

having
Dwever,
le addi-
supper.
ernoon,
IOmeter
ht were
ed that
the late

3 A.M.,

:ance of
island,
It Hon.
Some
tiunters
eded in
d us to
timican.
musk-
which
island,
channel

OF THE POLAR SEA.

255

at least three miles wide, to reach the
nearest of these islands. Some specimens
of variegated pebbles and jasper were
found here embedded in the amygdaloidal
rock.

Re-embarking at two P.M., and con-
tinuing through what was supposed to be a
channel between two islands, we found our
passage barred by a gravelly isthmus of
only ten yards in width; the canoes and
cargoes were carried across it, and we passed
into Bathurst's Inlet through another similar
channel, bounded on both sides by steep
rocky hills. The wind then changing from
S.E. to N.W. brought heavy rain, and we
encamped at seven P.M., having advanced
eighteen miles.

August 25, — Starting this morning with a
fresh breeze in our favour, we soon reached
that part of Barry's Island where the canoes
were detained on the 2d and 3d of this
month, and contrary to what we then expe-
rienced, the deer were now plentiful. The
hunters killed two, and relieved us from all
apprehension of immediate w'ant of food.

25i,

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

From their assembling at this time in sucli
numbers on the islands nearest to the coast,
we conjectured that they were about to re-
tire to the main shore. Those we saw were
generally females with their young, and all
of them very lean.

The wind continued in the same direction
until we had rounded Point WoUaston, and
then changed to a quarter which enabled
us to steer for Hood's River, which we
ascended as high as the first rapid and en-
camped. Here terminated our voyage on
the Arctic Sea, during which we had gone
over six hundred and fifty geographical
miles. Our Canadian voyagers could not
restrain their joy at having turned their
backs on the sea, and passed the evening in
talking over their past adventures with
much humour and no little exaggeration.
The consideration that the most painful,
and certainly the most hazardous part of
the journey was yet to come, did not de-
press their spirits at all. It is due to their
character to mention that they displa;yed
much courage in encountering the dangers

•. {

e in sucli
the coast,
>ut to re-
saw were
g, and all

direction

ston, and

1 enabled

vhich we

i and en-

oyage on

had gone

►graphical

:ould not

[led their

vening in

res with

geration.

painful,

part of

not de-

to their

ispla;yed

dangers

OF THE POLAR SEA.

255

of the sea, magnified to them by their
novchy.

The shores between Cape Barrow and
Cape Flinders, including the extensive
branches of Arctic and Melville Sounds,
and Bathurst's Inlet, may be comprehended
in one great gulf, which I have distin-
guished by the appellation of George IV's
Coronation Gulf, in honour of His Most
Gracious Majesty, the latter name being
added to mark the time of its discovery.
The Archipelago of islands which fringe
the coast from Copper-Mine River to Point
Turnagain, I have named in honour of his
Royal Highness the Duke of York.

It may be deserving of notice that the
extremes in temperature of the sea water
during our voyage were 53° and 35°, but
its general temperature was between 43°
and 48°. Throughout our return from
Point Turnagain we obsc rved that the sea
had risen several feet atove marks left at
our former encampments. This may, per-
haps, be attributed to the north-west gales.

August 2G. — Previous to our departure

250

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

this morning, an assortment of iron mate-
rials, beads, looking glasses, and other ar-
ticles were put up in a conspicuous situation
for the Esquimaux, and the English Union
was planted on the loftiest sand-hill, where
it might be seen by any ships passing in the
offing. Here also was deposited, in a tin
box, a letter containing an outline of our
proceedings, the latitude and longitude of
the principal places, and the course we in-
tended to pursue towards Slave Lake.

Embarking at eight A.M. we proceeded
up the river, which is full of sandy shoals,
but sufficiently deep for canoes in the chan-
nels. It is from one himdred to two hun-
dred yards wide, and is bounded by high
and steep banks of clay. We encamped at
a cascade of eighteen or twenty feet high,
which is produced by a ridge of rock
crossing the river, and the nets were set.^
A mile below this cascade Hood's River is
joined by a stream half its own size, which
I have called James' Branch. Bear and
deer tracks had been numerous on the
banks of the river when we were here

OF THE POLAR SEA.

257

n mate-
»ther ar-
situation
jh Union
11, where
ng in the
, in a tin
le of our
gitvide of
se we in-
ake.

)roceeded
ly shoals,
the chan-
two hun-
L by high
amped at
feet high,

of rock
were set.**

River is

ze, which
ear and
on the

ere here

before, but not a single recent one was to
be seen at this time. Credit, however,
killed a small deer at some distance inland,
which, with the addition of berries, furnished
a delightful repast this evening. The wea-
ther was remarkably fine, and the tempera-
ture so mild, that the musquitoes again made
tlieir appearance, but not in any great num-
bers. Our distance made to-day was not
more than six miles.

The next morning the net furnished us
with ten white fish and trout. Having
made a further deposit of iron work for the
Esquimaux we pursued our voyage up the
river, but the shoals and rapids in this part
were so frequent, that we walked along the
banks the whole day, and the crews laboured
hard in carrying the canoes thus lightened
over the shoals or dragging them up the
rapids, yet our journey in a direct line was
only about seven miles. In the evening we
encamped at the lower end of a narrow
chasm through which the river flows for
upwards of a mile. The walls of this
chasm are upwards of two hundred feet

VOL. III.

s

• 2oS

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

high, quite perpendicular, and in some
places only a few yards apart. The river
precipitates itself into it over a rock, form-
ing two magnificent and picturesque falls
close to each other. The upper fall is
about sixty feet high, and the lower one at
least one hundred ; but perhaps consider-
ably more, for the narrowness of the chasm
into which it fell prevented us from seeing
its bottom, and we could merely discern the
top of the spray far beneath our feet. The
lower fall is divided into two, by an insu-
lated column of rock which rises about
forty feet above it. The whole descent of
the river at this place probably exceeds
two hundred and fifty feet. The rock is
very fine felspathose sandstone. It has
a smooth surface and a light red colour. I
have named these magnificent cascades
" Wilberforce Falls," as a tribute of my
respect for that distinguished philanthropist
and Christian. Messrs. Back and Hood
took beautiful sketches of this majestic
scene.

The river being surveyed from the sum-

■■ *&;>»'> A* .:

in some
he river
;k, form-
que falls
r fall is
er one at
consider-
be chasm
m seeing
seem the
jet. The

an insu-
es about
escent of

exceeds
; rock is
It has
olour. I

cascades
e of my
nthropist
id Hood

majestic

the sum-

^.

3»ij

"'.■ V''

MI ■ ,*.

."-■■••>f

I • H "^

i; H

. •.■' • »

7>erfi

siJiev-

,.: .M.una, iuv< ^^' ^'o\M f.i ., .cern tlu;
top of the Kpray tar benen^^- onr fr^t. The
lower ilW is divided into -v^. -^ '

lated column of rock which lu^- - ■

forty feet above it. Th^- whole de^ccni i
I he river at this phice probably exci
t%^'f\ h^^ii'Vod 'iH'? hit" !'>^ ' ■

H

li

V\ ,i»fc;iioic-' ~ ■ '■ .■

re^pect t(>r that liihUii^t.ibiUil p»i;iantriti.pi>^
and ChrisLiai ^Tessrs. Back and Hood
took b(iautif>a nketches of this, mnje%tii'

^,ffnc.

"iiTT hvm^r survevt^d from the ;v.niv

er one at

ft/ The

i\]' insn

e«cent oi

.; Muod

tu

Inrawn "i/v U<m.* B«ck ?. t:

'Knw*^'^'*-^ ^ Vmiini

HrHmatM lit Vio f>/-f- hinh .

Pnb^itod. ie?8,>rv .'ihvv Uiinav Lin-l/m

.y*'-**.

1

i

1

m

1

ft

, !

1

1

-

t^P-

;

)

i

OF THE POLAR SEA.

259

rnit of a hill, above these falls, appeared so
rapid and shallow, that it seemed useless to
attempt proceeding any farther in the large
c&noes. I therefore determined on con-
structing out of their materials two smaller
ones of sufficient size to contain three per-
sons, for the purpose of crossing any river
that might obstruct our progress. This
operation was accordingly commenced, and
by the 31st both the canoes being finished,
we prepared for our departure on the fol-
lowing day.

The leather which had been preserved for
making shoes was equally divided among
the men, two pairs of flannel socks were
given to each person, and such articles of
warm clothing as remained were issued to
those who most required them. They were
also furnished with one of the officers' tents.
This being done, I communicated to the
men my intention of proceeding in as direct
a course as possible to the part of Point
Lake opposite our spring encampment,
which was only distant one hundred and
forty-nine miles in a straight line. They

s 2

r

260

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

<

r

received the communication cheerfully, con-
sidered the journey to be short, and left me
in high spirits to arrange their own packages.
The stores, books, &'c., which were not ab-
solutely necessary to be carried, were then
put up in boxes to be left en cache here, in
order that the men's burdens might be as
light as possible.

The next morning was warm and very
fine. Every one was on the alert at an
early hour, being anxious to commence the
journey. Our luggage consisted of ammuni-
tion, nets, hatchets, ice chisels, astronomical
instruments, clothing, blankets, "three ket-
tles, and the two canoes, which were each
carried by one man. The officers carried
such a portion of their own things as their
strength would permit ; the weight carried
by each man was about ninety pounds, and
with this we advanced at the rate of about
a mile an hour, including rests. In the
evening the hunters secured a lean cow,
out of a large drove of musk oxen ; but the
men were too much laden to carry more
than a small portion of its flesh. The allu-

ally, con-
d left me
)ackages.
e not ab-
rere then
here, in
rht be as

and very
?rt at an
aence the
ammuni-
ronomical
hree ket-
vere each

carried
s as their

carried
mds, and
of about

In the
an cow,

but the
fry more
^'he allu-

OF THE POLAR SEA.

261

vial soil, which towards the mouth of the
river spreads into plains, covered with grass
and willows, was now giving placf to a
more barren and hilly country, so that we
could but just collect sufficient brush- wood
to cook our suppers. I'he part of the river
we skirted this day was shallow, and flowed
over a bed of sand ; its width about one
hundred and twenty yards. About mid-
night our tent was blown down by a squall,
and we were completely drenched with rain
before it could be re-pitched.

On the morning of the 1st of September
a fall of snow took place ; the canoes be-
came a cause of delay, from the difficulty
of carrying them in a high wind, and they
sustained much damage through the falls of
those who had charge of them. The face
of the country was broken by hills of mo-
derate elevation, but the ground was plenti-
fully strewed with small stones, which, to
men bearing heavy burdens, and whose feet
were protected only by soft moose-skin
shoes, occasioned graat pain. At the end
of eleven miles we encamped, and sent for

262

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

a musk-ox and a deer, which St. Germain
and Augustus had killed. The day was
extremely cold, the thermometer varying
between 34° and 36°, In the afternoon a
heayy fall of snow took place, on the wind
changing from north-west to south-west.
We found no wood at the encampment, but
made a fire of moss to cook the supper,
and crept under our blankets for warmth.
At sunrise the thermometer was at 31°,
and the wind fresh from north-west; but
the weather became mild in the course of
the forenoon, and the snow disappeared
from the gravel. The afternoon was re-
markably fine, and the thermometer rose to
50°. One of the hunters killed a musk-ox.
The hills in this part are lower, and more
round-backed than those we passed yester-
day, exhibiting but little naked rock ; they
were covered with lichens.

Having ascertained from the summit of
the highest hill near the tents that the river
continued to preserve a west course, and
fearing that by pursuing it further we might
lose much time, and unnecessarily walk over

Germain
day was

varying
ernoon a
the wind
uth-west.
ment, but
B supper,
• warmth,
s at 31°,
Yest; but
course of
sappeared
n was re-
er rose to
musk-ox.
and more

d yester-
)ck; they

ummit of
the river
urse, and
we might
walk over

OF THE POLAR SEA.

263

a great deal of ground, I determined on
quitting its banks the next day, and making
as directly as we could for Point Lake. We
accordingly followed the river on the 3d,
only to the place where the musk-ox had
been killed last evening, and after the meat
was procured crossed the river in our two
canoes lashed together. We now emerged
from the valley of the river, and entered
a level, but very barren, country, varied
only by small lakes and marshes, the ground
being covered with small stones. Many
old tracks of rein-deer were seen in the
clayey soil, and some more recent traces of
the musk-ox. We encamped on the borders
of Wright's River, which flows to the east-
ward, the direct distance walked to-day
being ten miles and three-quarters. The
next morning was very fine, and, as the day
advanced, the weather became quite warm.
We set out at six A.M., and, having forded
the river, walked over a perfectly level
country, interspersed with small lakes,
which communicated with each other, by
streams running in various directions. No

^64

JOURNEY TO THE SHORES

1

I
1

f

I

berry-bearing plants were found in this
part, the surface of the earth being thinly
covered in the moister places with a few
grasses and on the drier spots with lichens.
Having walked twelve miles and a half,
we encamped at seven P.M., and distributed
our last piece of pemmican and a little
arrow-root for supper, which afforded but
a scanty meal. This evening was warm,
but dark clouds overspread the sky. Our
men now began to find their burdens very
oppressive, and were much fatigued by this
day's march, but did not complain. One
of them was lame from an inflammation in
the knee. Heavy rain commenced at mid-
night, and continued without intermission
until five in the morning, when it was suc-
ceeded by snow on the wind changing to
north-west, which soon increased to a vio-
lent gale. As we had nothing to eat, and
were destitute of the means of making a
fire, v/e remained in our beds all the day ;
but the covering of our blankets was in-
sufficient to prevent us from feeling the
severity of the frost, and suffering inconve-

OF THE POLAR SEA.

265

in this
T thinly
h a few
hchens.
[ a half,
itributed
a little
•ded but
s warm,
y. Our
lens very
d by this
in. One
nation in
I at mid-
jrmission
tvas suc-
iging to
Ito a vio-
eat, and
aking a
|the day;
was in-
|ling the
nconve-

nience from the drifting of the snow into
our tents. There was no abatement of the
storm next day ; our tents were completely
frozen, and the snow had drifted around
them to a depth of three feet, and even in
the inside there was a covering of several
inches on our blankets. Our suffering from
cold, in a comfortless canvass tent in such
weather, with the temperature at 20°, and
without fire, will easily be imagined ; it
was, however, less than that which we felt
from hunger.

END OF VOL. III.

VOL. III.

! •■

'\

LONDON:

IMUNTtD BY C. ROWORTH, UELL YARD,

TEMPLK BAR.

ARD,