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'%.

THIRTY YEARS

IX THB

ARCTIC EEGIONS;

OR,

^t l^bbtntura of

SIR JOHN FRANKLIN.

NEW- YORK :
GEORGE COOPER, PUBLISHER,

No. 8 SPRUCE STREET.

1850.

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Entered, according to Act of Congress, In the year 1859, by
H. DAYTON,

In the Clerk's Offl.JC of the District Conrt of the United States for the
Southern District of New York.

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PREFACE.

Tffls volume gives a graphic narrative of the adv^utures
in Arctic Kegions of perhaps the most celebrated Arctic
traveler of this, or other times. Graphic — because in the
main, Sir John Franklin tells his own story. Apart from
the interest of the narrative, and its intrinsic merits, the
deep interest, which for years has been felt in the fate of
Sir John Franklin, will attract attention to the story of
his early adventures, now, for the first time, presented in
a cheap and readable shape. The narrative of Sir John's
first Polar Sea Expedition, we venture to say, is unsur-
passed among books of travel and adventure for intense,
all-absorbing interest.

The book sketches Franklin's three expeditions, and
gives all the information to be had respecting the fourth
and last sad one which will forever be shrouded in mys-
tery to this world. We also add a sketch of the expedi-
tions sent in search of Franklin, and their results.

Franklin's first journey into Arctic Regions was made

VI

PREFACE.

in 1816, when the English nation was roused to a strong
desire for the acquisition of geographical knowledge
in British America and the Arctic Zone. His second, two
or three years later. His third in 1825, and the last in
1845. We have endeavored to select the pith of his
story from the bulky volumes inaccessible to the general
reader, and, indeed, out of print long ago ; and now to
be found only with old book collections in stray copies in
English cities. In reading this true story of the adven-
tures of a truly brave man, the reader cannot fail ;'o per-
ceive that in this case, at least, truth is more strange and
more interesting than fiction.

Washington, D. 0. ^ D. W. B. ■

' ^•

> t

THIRTY YEARS

IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS.

CHAPTER I.

4

Sir John Franklin's first expedition to the Arctic
Re<rion8 was made in the year 1816, as Lieutenant
under Captain Buchan, with the ships " Dorothea" and
" Trent."

After much difficulty, these vessels gained lat.
80 deg. 34 min., north of Spitzbergen ; but were ob-
liged speedily to withdraw, and try their fortune off
the western edge of the pack. Here, however, a wild
war of ice and waves prevailed, so that choice and ne-
cessity equally induced the bold experiment of dash-
ing through it, to take shelter in the pack. First
went the "Dorothea," and then the " Trent," whose
crew seemed to a man imbued with the dauntless
spirit of the Lieutenant in command. A dreadful
pause preceded the critical moment. " Each person,"
says Beechey, in his narrative, " instinctively secured
his own hold; and, with his eyes fixed upon his masts,

I

8

Thirty Years

awaited in breathless anxiety the moment of concus-
sion. It soon arrived — the brig, cuttiDg her way
through the light ice, came in violent contact with the
main body. In an instant we all lost our footing, the
masts bent with the impetus, and the cracking tim-
bers from below bespoke a pressure which was calcu-
lated to awaken our serious apprehensions." The
gloominess of the scene and circumstances was not

Mr

cheered by the dolorous tolling of the ship's great
bell, which never sounded of itself in the roughest
gale, but now was so swung by the violent motion of
the ship, that its deep tones pealed forth like a death-
knell, and the officers, fearing the awakened supersti-
tion of the men, ordered it to be muffled. A few
hours released the vessels from their imprisonment,
but the " Dorothea" was found to be completely dis-
abled. A short time at Fairhaven in Spitzbergen was
spent in necessary repairs, and even then she was unfit
for any further service than the voyage to England.
Franklin volunteered to prosecute the enterprise with
the " Trerit" alone, but the Admiralty orders opposed
such a proceeding, and the vessels returned home in
company.

In 1819, Sir John Franklin — then Captain Frank-
lin— was appointed to the command of an Expedition
from the shores of Hudson's Bay, to explore the
Northern Coast of America, from the mouth of Cop-

In the Arctic Regions,

9

per Mine River eastward. This is probably the most
thrilling Arctic Expedition on record, and we shall
give it in Franklin's own words. The Expedition
consisted of John Franklin, Commander ; John Eich-
ardson, Doctor ; George i3ach and Robert Hood, two
Admiralty Midshipmen. The agents of the Hudson's
Bay Company were ordered to assist the Expedition
in every possible way. The two Admiralty Midship-
men were to make drawings of the land and waters,
and Doctor Richardson was naturalist as well as doc-
tor to the Expedition.

On Sunday, the 23d of May, 1814, the party set
sail from Gravesend, and arrived at Hudson's Straits
August 11, and at York Factory the 30th. The
Governor of the Company here received the exploring
party. The Northwest Company and the Bay Com-
pany were, at this time, in violent opposition to each
other, which was unfortunate for the Expedition.
The Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company gave to
the party one of the largest of his boats, and a crew
was made up from the ship's company, with the ex-
ception of the steersman, who was furnished by the
Governor. •

The narrative now commences in the words of Cap-
tain Franklin.

I

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10

Tliirty Years

.«*"

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CHAPTER II.

On the 9th of September, 1819, our boat being
completed, arrangements were made for our departure
as soon as the tide should serve. But, when the
stores were brought down to the beach, it was found
that the boat would not contain them all. The whole,
therefore, of the bacon, and part of the flour, rice, to-
bacco, and ammunition, were returned into the store.
The bacon was too bulky an article to be forwarded
under any circumstances ; but the Governor undertook
to forward the rest next season. In making the selec-
tion of articles to carry with us, I was guided by the
judgment of Governor Williams, who assured me that
tobacco, ammunition, and spirits, could be procured
in the interior, otherwise I should have been very un-
willing to have left these essential articles behind.
We embarked at nooff, and were honored with a salute
of eight guns and three cheers from the Governor and
all the inmates of the fort, assembled to witness our
departure. We gratefully returned their cheers, and
then made sail, much delighted at having now com-

\

■■'■*

In the Arctic Regions.

11

menced our voyage into the interior of America. The
wind and tide failing us at the distance of six miles
above the Factory, and the current being too rapid for
usins: oars to advantage, the crew had to commence
tracking, or dragging the boat by a line, to which they
were harnessed. This operation is extremely laborious
in these rivers. Our men were obliged to walk along
the steep declivity of a high bank, rendered at this
season soft and slippery by frequent rains, and their
progress was often further impeded by fallen trees,
which, having slipped from the verge of the thick
wood above, hung on the face of the bank in a great
variety of directions. Notwithstanding these ob-
stacles, however, we advanced at the rate of two
miles an hour, one-half of the crew relieving the
other at intervals of an hour and a half. The banks
of the river, and its islands, composed of alluvial soil,
are well covered with pines, larches, poplars, and wil-
lows. The breadth of the stream some distance above
the Factory is about half a mile, and its depth during
this day's voyage varied from three to nine feet.

At sunset we landed, and pitched the tent for the
night, having made a progress of twelve miles. A
large fire was quickly kindled, supper speedily prepar-
ed, and as readily despatched, when we retired with
our buffalo robes on, and enjoyed a night of sound re-
pose.

12

Thirty Years

The next morning our camp was in motion at five
A. M., and we soon afterwards embarked with the flat-
tering accompaniment of a fair wind : it proved, how-
ever, too light to enable us to stem the stream, and
we were obliged to resume the fatiguing operation of
tracking, sometimes under cliffs so steep that the men
could scarcely find a footing, and not unfrequently
over spots rendered so miry, by the small streams that
trickled from above, as to be almost impassable. In
the course of the day we passed the scene of a very
melancholy accident. Some years ago two fami-
lies of Indians, induced by the flatness of a small
beach, which lay betwixt the cliff and the river, chose
it as the site of their encampment. They retired
quietly to rest, not aware that the precipice, detached
from the bank, aud urged by an accumulation of wa-
ter in the crevice behind, was tottering to its base.
It fell during the night, and the whole party was buried
under its ruins.

The length of our voyage to-day was, in a direct
line, sixteen miles and a quarter, on a S. S. W. course.
We encamped soon after sunset, and the > tent was
scarcely pitched when it began to rain heavily, and
continued to do so all night.

Sixteen miles on the 11th, and five on the following
morning, brought us to the commencement of Hayes*
Biver, which is formed by the confluence of the Sha-

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In the Arctic Eegiona.

13

irect

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mattawa and Steel Rivers. Our observations place
this spot in latitude 6Q deg. 22 min. 32 sec. N., longi-
tude 93 deg. 1 min. 37 sec, W. It is forty-eight
miles and a half from York Factory, including the
windings of the river. Steel River, through which
our course lay, is about three hundred yards wide at
its mouth ; its banks have more elevation than those
of Hayes' River, but they shelve more gradually down
to the stream, and afford a tolerably good towing path,
which compensates, in some degree, for the rapids and
frequent shoals that impede its navigation. We suc-
ceeded in getting about ten miles above the mouth of
the river, before the close of the day compelled us to
disembark.

We made an effort, on the morning of the 13 th, to
stem the current under sail, but as the course of the
river was very serpentine, we found that greater pro-
gress could be made by tracking. Steel River presents
much beautiful scenery ; it winds through a narrow,
but well wooded valley, which, at every turn disclos-
ed to us an agreeable variety of prospect, rendered
more picturesque by the effect of the season on the
foliage, now ready to drop from the trees. The light
yellow of the fading poplars formed a fine contrast to
the dark evergreen of the spruce, whilst the willows,
of an intermediate hue, served to shade the two prin-
cipal masses of color into each other. The scene

14

Thirty Years

was occasionally enlivened, by the bright purple tints
of the dogwood, blended with the browner shades of
the dwarf birch, and frequently intermixed with the
gay yellow flowers of the shrubby cinquefoil. With
all these charms, the scene appeared desolate from the
want of the human species. The stillness was so
great, that even the twittering of the Whiskey-john-
eesTiy or cinereous crow, caused us to start. Oar voy-
age to-day was sixteen miles on a S. W. course.

Sept. 14. — We had much rain during the night,

and also in the morning, which detained us in our

encampment later^raan usual. We set out as soon

as the weather cleared up, and in a short time arrived

at the head of Steel River, where it is formed by the

junction of Fox and Hill Rivers. These two rivers

are nearly of equal width, but the latter is the most

rapid. Mr. M'Donald, on his way to Red River, in a

small canoe, manned by two Indians, overtook us at

this place. It may be mentioned as a proof of the

dexterity of the Indians, and the skill with which

they steal upon their game, that they had on the

preceding day, with no other arms than a hatchet,

killed two deer, a hawk, a curlew, and a sturgeon.

Three of the Company's boats joined us in the course

of the morning, and we pursued our course up Hill ,

River in company. The water in this river was so

low, and the rapids so bad, that we were obliged

%,'

In the Arctic Regions.

15

several times, in the course of the day, to jump into
the water, and assist in lifting the boat over the large
stones which impeded the navigation. The length of
our voyage to-day was only six miles and three
quarters.- ^ ^ . . : . < .?

The four boats commenced operations together at
five o'clock the following morning ; but our boat
being overladen, we soon found that we were unable
to keep pace with the others ; and therefore proposed
to the gentlemen in charge of the Company's boats,
that they should relieve us of part of our cargo. This
they declined doing, under the |9la of not having
received orders to that effect, notwithstanding that the
circular, with which I was furnished by Governor
Williams, strictly enjoined all the Company's servants
to afford us every assistance. In consequence of this
refusal we dropt behind, and our steersman, who was
inexperienced, being thus deprived of the advantage
of observing the route followed by the guide, who was
in the foremost boat, frequently took a wrong channel.
The tow-line broke twice, and the boat was only pre-
vented from going broadside down the stream, and
breaking to pieces against the stones, by the officers
and men leaping into the water, and holding her head
to the current until the line could be cafried again to
the shore. It is but justice to say, that in these
trying situations we received much assistance from

16

Thirty Years

n<

\

Mr. Thomas Swayne, who with great kindness waited
for us with the boat under his charge, at such places
as he apprehended would be most difficult to pass.
We encamped at sunset, completely jaded with toil.
Our distance made good this day was twelve miles
and a quarter. , . .« -

The labors of the 16th commenced at half-past five,
and for some time the difficulty of getting the boats over
the rapids was equal to what we experienced yester-
day. Having passed a small brook, however, termed
Half-way Creehy the river became deeper, and although
rapid, it was smooth enough to be named by our
Orkney boatmen Still-water, We were further re-
lieved by the Company's clerks consenting to take a
few boxes of our stores into their boats. Still we
made only eleven miles in the course of the day.*

The banks of Hill Eiver are higher, and have a
more broken outline, than those of Steel or Haye's
Rivers. The cliffs of alluvial clay rose in some places
to the height of eighty or' ninety feet above the
stream, and were surmounted by hills about two hun-
dred feet high, but the thickness of the wood pre-
vented us from seeing far beyond the mere banks of
the river.

Sept. 17.— About half-past five in the morning we
commenced tracking, and soon came to a ridge ot
rock which extended across the stream. From this

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In the Artie Regions.

17

place the boat was dragged up several narrow rocky
channels, until we came to the Rock-Portage, where
the stream, pent in by a range of small islands, forms
several cascades. In ascending the river, the boats
with their cargoes are carried over one of the islands,
but in the descent they are shot down the most
shelving of the cascades. Having performed the
operations of carrying, launching and re-stowing the
cargo, wo plied the oars for a short distance, and
landed at a dep6t called Rock-House. Here we wer3
informed that the rapids in the upper parts of Hi'l
River were much worse and more numerous than
those we had passed, particularly in the present
season, owing to the unusual lowness of the water.
This intelligence was very mortifying, especially as
the gentlemen in charge of the Company's boats
declared that they were unable to carry any part of
our stores beyond this place ; and the traders, guides,
and most experienced of the boatmen, were of opinion,
that unless our boat was still further lightened, the
winter would put a stop to our progress before we
could reach Cumberland House, or any eligible post.
Sixteen pieces were therefore necessarily left with Mr.
Bunn, the gentleman in charge of the post, to be
forwarded by the Athabasca canoes next season, this
being their place of rendezvoua
After this we recommenced our voyage, and having

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18

Thirty Years

?•'

pulled nearly a mile, arrived at Borrowick's Fall,
where the boat was dragged up with a line, after part-
of the cargo had been carried over a small portage.
From this place to the Mud Portage, a distance of a

" mile and three-quarters, the boats were pushed on
with poles against a very rapid stream. Here we en-

. camped, having come seven miles during the day on a
S. W. course. We had several snow showers in the
course of the day, and the thermometer at bed-time
stood at 30°.

On the morning of the 18 th, the country was clothed
in the livery of winter, a heavy fall of snow having
taken place during the night. We embarked at the
usual hour, and, in the course of the day, crossed the
Point of Rocks, and Brassa Portages, and dragged the
boats through several minor rapids. In this tedious
way we only made good about nine miles.

On Sunday the 19th, we hauled the boats up sev-
eral short rapids, or, as the boatmen term them,
expressively enough, spouts, and carried them over
the Portages of Lower Burntwood and Morgan's
Rocks ; on the latter of which we encamped, having
proceeded, during the whole day, only one mile and

three-quarters.

The upper part of Hill River swells out consider-
ably, and at Morgan's Rocks, where it is three quar-
ters of a mile wide, we were gratified with a more ex-

r

In tht Arctic Regions.

19

tensive prospect of the country than any we had
enjoyed since leaving York Factory. The banks of
the river here, consisting of low flat rocks with inter-
mediate swamps, permitted us to obtain views of the
interior, the surface of which is broken into a multi-
tude of cone-shaped hills. The highest of these hills,
which gives a name to the river, has an elevation not
exceeding six hundred feet. From its summit, thirty-
six lakes are said to be visible. The beauty of the
scenery, dressed in the tints of autumn, called forth
our admiration, and was the subject of Mr. Hood*s
accurate pencil. On the 20th we passed Upper Burnt-
wood and Eocky Ledge Portages, besides several strong
spouts ; and in the evening arrived at Smooth Kock
Portage, where we encamped, having come three miles
and a half. It is not easy for any but an eye-witness
to form an adequate idea of the exertions of the Ork-
ney boatmen in the navigation of this river. The ne-
cessity they are under of frequently jumping into the
water, to lift the boats over the rocks, compels them
to remain the whole day in wet clothes, at a season
when the temperature is far below the freezing point.
The immense loads too, which they carry over the
portages, is not more a matter of surprise than the
alacrity with which they perform these laborious
duties.
At six on the morning of the 21st, we left our en-

s?o

Thirty Years

;ampment, and soon after arrived at the Mossy Port-
age, where the cargoes were carried through a deep
bog for a quarter of a mile. The river swells out,
above this portage, to the breadth of several miles,
and as the islands are numerous, there are a great va-
riety of channels. Night overtook us before we arrived
at the Second Portage^ so named from its being the
second in the passage down the river. Our whole dis-
tance this day, was one mile and a quarter.

On the 22d, our route led us amongst many wooded
islands, which lying in long vistas, produced scenes of
much beauty. In the course of the day we crossed
the Upper Portage, surmounted the Devil's Landing
Place, and urged the boat with poles through Ground-
water Creek. At the upper end of this creek, our
bowman having given the boat too broad a sheer, to
avoid the rock, it was caught on the broadside by the
current, and, in defiance of our utmost exertions, hur-
ried down the rapid. Fortunately, however, it
grounded against a rock high enough to prevent the
current from oversetting it, and the crews of the other
boats having come to our assistance, we succeeded,
after several trials, in throwing a rope to them, with
which they dragged our almost sinking vessel stern
foremost up the stream, and rescued us from our per-
ilous situation.

We began the ascent of Trout Eiver early in the

IjaK ,

j'.^^^B wn

In the Arctic Regions,

21

morning of the 27th, and in the course of the day
passed three portages and several rapids. At the first
of these portages the river falls between two rocks
about sixteen feet, and it is necessary to launch the
boat over a precipitous rocky bank. This cascade is
named the Trout Fallj and the beauty of the scenery
afibrded a subject for Mr. Hood's pencil. The rocks
which form the bed of this river are slaty, and present
sharp fragments, by which the feet of the boatmen are
much lacerated. The Second Portage, in particular,
obtains the expressive name of Knife Portage. The
length of our voyage to-day was three miles.

On the 28th, we passed through the remainder of
Trout Kiver ; and, at noon, arrived at Oxford house,
on Holey Lake. This was formerly a post of some
consequence to the Hudson's Bay Company, but at
present it exhibits unequivocal signs of decay. The
Indians have, of late years, been gradually deserting
the low or swampy country, and ascending the Sas-
katchawan, where animals are more abundant. A few
Crees were at this time encamped in front of the for*;.
They were suffering under the combined maladies of ^
whooping-cough and measles, and looked miserably
dejected. We endeavored in vain to prevail on one of
them to accompany us for the purpose of killing ducks,
which were numerous, but too shy for our sportsmen.
We had the satisfaction, however, of exchanging the

22

Thirty Years

■ \

mouldy pemmican, obtained at Swampy Lake, for a
better kind, and received, moreover, a small, but very
acceptable, supply of fish. Holey Lake, viewed from
an eminence behind Oxford House, exhibits a pleasing
prospect ; and its numerous islands, varying much in
shape and elevation, contribute to break that uniform-
ity of scenery which proves so palling to a traveler in
this country. Trout of a great size, frequently ex-
ceeding forty pounds weight, abound in this lake.
We left Oxford House in the afternoon, and encamped
on an island about eight miles distant, having come,
during the day, nine miles and a quarter.

At noon, on the 29th, after passing through the
remainder of Holey Lake, we entered the Weepinap-
annis, a narrow grassy river, which runs parallel to
the lake for a considerable distance, and forms its
south bank into a narrow peninsula. In the morning
we arrived at the Swampy Portage, where two of the
boats were broken against the rocks. The length of
the day's voyage was nineteen miles and a half.

In consequence of the accident yesterday evening,
we were detained a considerable time this morning,
until the boats were repaired, when we set out, and
after ascending a strong rapid, arrived at the Portage
by John Moore's Island. Here the river rushes with
irresistible force through the channels formed by two
rocky islands ; and we learnt, that last year a poor

J: j.:;

In the Arctic Regions.

23

man, in hauling a boat up one of these channels, was,
by the breaking of the line, precipitated into the
stream and hurried down the cascade with such rapid-
ity, that all efforts to save him were ineffectual. His
body was afterwards found and interred near the
spot. " ' '*

Oct. 1. — Ilill Gates is the name imposed on a ro-
mantic defile, whose rocky walls rising perpendicu-
larly to the height of sixty or eighty feet, hem in the
stream for three-quarters of a mile, in many places so
narrowly, that there is a want of room to ply the
oars. In passing through this chasm we were natur-
ally led to contemplate the mighty but, probably,
slow and gradual effects of the water in wearing down
such vast masses of rock ; but in the midst of our
speculations, the attention was excited anew to a
grand and picturesque rapid, which, surrounded by the
most wild and majestic scenery, terminated the defile.
The brown fishing-eagle had built its nest on one of
the projecting cliffs. In the course of the day we
surmounted this and another dangerous portage,
called the Upper and Lower Hill Gate Portages,
crossed a small sheet of water, termed the White-Fall
Lake, and entering the river of the same name, arrived
at the White Fall about an hour after sunset, having
come fourteen miles on a S. W. course.
The whole of the 2d of October was spent in carry-

24

Thirty Tears

\

\

ing the cargoes over a portage of thirteen hundred
yards in length, and in launching the empty boats
over three several ridges of rock which obstruct the
channel and produce as many cascades. I shall long
remember the rude and characteristic wildness of the
scenery which surrounded these falls ; rocks piled on
rocks hung in rude and shapeless masses over the
agitated torrents which swept their bases, whilst the
bright and variegated tints of the mosses and lichens,
that covered the face of the cliffs, contrasting with
the dark green of the pines, which crowned their
summits, added both beauty and grandeur to the
general effect of the scene. Our two companions.
Back and Hood, made accurate sketches of these falls.
At this place we observed a conspicuous lop-stick, a
kind of land-mark, which I have not hitherto noticed,
notwithstanding its great use in pointing out the
frequented routes. It is a pine-tree divested of its
lower branches, and having only a small tuft at the
top remaining. This operation is usually performed
at the instance of some individual emulous of fame.
He treats his companions with rum, and they in
return, strip the tree of its branches, and ever after
designate it by his name. -

In the afternoon, whilst on my way to superintend
the operations of the men, a stratum of loose moss
gave way under my feet, and I had the misfortune to

i^S

In the Arctic Regions.

Xi*

2b

•slip from the summit of a rock into the river, betwixt
two of the falls. My attempts to regain the bank
were, for a time, ineffectual, owing to the rocks within
my reach having been worn smooth by the action of
the water, but after I had been carried a considerable
distance down the stream, I caught hold of a willow,
by which I held until two gentlemen of the Hudson'i
Bay Company came in a boat to my assistance. Th<
only bad consequence of this accident was an injur}
sustained by a very valuable chronometer, (No. 1733,}
belonging to Daniel Moore, Esq., of Lincoln's Inn
One of the gentlemen, to whom I delivered it imme-
diately on landing, in his agitation let it fall, whereby
the minute-hand was broken, but the works were noi
in the smallest degree injured, and the loss of tht
hand was afterwards supplied.

During the night the frost was severe, and at sun-
rise, on the 3d, the thermometer stood at 25°. Afte:
leaving our encampment aV the White Fall, wi^
passed through several small lakes connected with
each other by narrow, deep, grassy streams, and at
noon arrived at the Painted Stone. Numbeis of
musk-rats frequent these streams, and we observed
^ in the course of the morning, many of their mud-
houses rising in a conical form to the height of two
or three feet above the grass of the swamps in which
they are built.

26

ndi ty Years.

Having launched the boats over the rock, we com-
menced the descent of the Echemamis. This small
atream has its course through a morass, and in dry
•jeasons its channel contains, instead of water, merely
a. foot or two of thin mud. On these occasions it is
3ustomary to build dams, that it may be rendered
navigaWe by the accumulation of its waters. As the
beavers perform this operation very effectually, en-
deavors have been made to encourage them to breed
in this place, but it has not hitherto been possible to
restrain the Indians from killing that useful animal
whenever they discover its retreats. On the present
occasion there was no want of water, the principal
impediment we experienced being from the narro\me88
of the channel, which permitted the willows of each
bank to meet over our heads, and obstruct the men at
the oars. After proceeding down the stream for some
time, we came to a recently con tructed beaver-dam
through which an opening was made sufficient to
admit the boat to pass. We were assured that the
beach would be closed by the industrious creature in a
single night. We encamp; d about eight miles from
the source of the river, having come during the day
seventeen miles and a half.

On the 4th we embarked amidst a heavy rain, and
pursued our route uovvn the Echemamis. In many
parts the morass, by which the river is nourished, and

*ifc'

In the Arctic Regions.

•27

tliDiii^h which it flows, is intersected by ridges of
rock which cross the channel, and require the boat to
be lifted over them. In the afternoon we passed
through a shallow piece of water overgrown with
bulrushes, and hence named Hairy Lake ; and in the
evening, encamped on the banks of Blackwater-Creek,
by which this lake empties itself into Sea Kiver ;
having come during the day twenty miles and three-
quarters. . - . r s :; "u V

On the morning of the 5th, we entered Sea River,
one of the many branches of Nelson River. It is
about four hundred yards wide, and its waters are of
a muddy white color. After ascending the stream for
an hour or two, and passing through Carpenter's
Lake, which is merely an expansion of the river to
about a mile in breadth, we came to the Sea River
Portage, where the boat was launched acioss a smooth
rock, to avoid a fall of four or five feet. Re-embark-
ing at the upper end of the portage, we ran before a
fresh gale through the remainder of Sea River, the
lower part of Play Greene Lake, and entering Little
Jack River, landed and pitched our tents. Here there
is a small log-hut, the residence of a fisherman, who
supplies Norway House with trout and sturgeon.
He gave us a few of these fish, which afforded an
acceptable supper. The length of cur voyage this
day was thirty- four miles.

28

Thirty Years

"\

We left Norway House soon after noon of the 7tli,
and the wind being f\ivorable, sailed along the north-
ern shore of Lake Winipeg the whole of the ensuing
night ; and on the morning of the 8th landed on a
narrow ridge of sand, which, running out twenty miles
to the westward, separates Limestone Bay from the
body of the Lake. When the wind blows hard from
the southward, it is customary to carry boats across
this isthmus, and to pull up under its lee. From
Norwegian Point to Limestone Bay the shore consists
of high clay cliffs against which the waves beat with
much violence during strong southerly winds. When
the wind blows from the land, and the waters of the
lake are low, a narrow, sandy beach is uncovered, and
affords a landing-place for boats. The shores of
Limestone Bay are covered with small fragments of
calcareous stones. During the night the Aurora Bo-
realis was quick in its motions, and various and vivid
in its colors. After breakfasting we re-embarked, and
continued our vovajire until three P. M., whenastronoj
westerly wind arising, we were obliged to shelter our-
selves on a small island, which lies near the extremity
of the above-mentioned peninsula. This island is
formed of a collection of small rolled pieces of lime-
store, and was remembered by some of our boatmen
to have been formerly covered with water. For the
last ten or twelve years the waters of the lake have

ttmm

In the Arctic Regions.

29

been low, but our information did not enable us to
judge •whether the decrease was merely casual, or going
on continually, or periodical. The distance of this
island from Norway House is thirty-eight miles and a
half

The westerly winds detained us all the morning of
the 9 th, but, at two P. M., the wind chopped round to
the eastward : "we immediately embarked, and the
breeze afterwards freshening, we reached the mouth of
the Saskatchawan at midnight, having run thirty-two
miles

Sunday, Oct. 10. — The whole of this day was oc-
cupied in getting the boats from the mouth of the
river to the foot of the grand rapid, a distance of two
miles. There are several rapids in this short distance
during which the river varies its breadth from five
hundred yards to half a mile. Its channel is stony.
At the grand rapid, the Saskatchawan forms a sudden
bend, from south to east, and works its way through
a narrow channel, deeply worn into the limestone
strata. The stream, rushing with impetuous force
over a rocky and uneven bottom, presents ^ sheet of
foam, and seems to bear with impatience the straiten-
ed confinement of its lofty banks. A flock of pelicans,
and two or three brown fishing eagles, were fishing in
its agitated waters, seemingly with great success.
There is a good sturgeon fishery at the foot of the

30

Thirty Years

rapid. Several golden plovers, Canadian gros-beaks,
cross-bills, wood-peckers, and pin-tailed grouse, were
shot to-day ; and Mr. Back killed a small striped
marmot. This beautiful little animal was busily em-
ployed in carrying in its distended pouches the seeds of
the American vetch to its winter hoards.

The portage is eighteen hundreds yards long, and
its western extremity was found to be in 53 deg. 08
min. 25 sec. North latitude, and 99 deg. 28 min. 02
sec. West longitude. The route from Canada to the
Athabasca joins that from York Factory at the mouth
of the Saskatchawan, and we saw traces of a recent
encampment of the Canadian voyagers. Our com-
panions in the Hudson's Bay boats, dreading an attack
from their rivals in trade, were on the alert at this
place. They examined minutely the spot of encamp-
ment, to form a judgment of the number of canoes
that had preceded them ; and they advanced, armed,
and with great caution, through the woods. Their
fears, however, were fortunately, on this occasion,
groundless.

By noon, on the 12 th, the boats and their cargoes
having been conveyed across the portage, we embark-
ed and pursued our course. The Saskatchawan be-
comes wider above the Grand Eapid, and the scenery
improves. The banks are high, composed of white
clay and limestone, and their summits are lichly

In the Arctic Regions.

31

clothed with a variety of firs, poplars, birches, and
willows. The current runs with great rapidity, and
the channel is, in many places, intricate and dangerous,
from broken ridges of rock jutting into the stream
We pitched our tents at the entrance of Cross Lake,
having advanced only five miles and a half.

Cross Lake is extensive, running towards the N. E.,
it is said, for forty miles. We crossed it at the nar-
row part, and pulling through several winding chan-
nels, formed by a group of islands, entered Cedar
Lake, which, next to Lake Winneipeg, is the largef^t
sheet of fresh water we had hitherto seen. Duck.-*
and geese resort hither in immense flocks in the spring
and autumn. These birds are now beginning to go ofl ,
owing to its muddy shores having become quite han^
through the nightly frosts. At this place the Auron
Borealis was extremely brilliantdn the night, its corus-
cations darting, at times, over the whole sky, and as-
suming various prismatic tints, of which the violel
and yellow were predominant.

After pulling, on the 14th, seven miles and a quar-
ter on the lake, a violent wind drove us for shelter to
a small island, or rather a ridge of rolled stones,
thrown up by the frequent storms which agitate this
lake. The weather did not moderate the whole day
and we were obliged to pass the night on this exposec
spot. The delay, however, enabled us to obtain somi

32

Tliirty Years

lunar observations. The wind having subsided, we
left our resting-place the following morning, crossed
:he remainder of the lake, and, in the afternoon, ar-
rived at Muddy Lake, which is very appropriatelj
lamed, as it consists merely of a few channels, wind-
ng amongst extensive mud banks, which are overflow-
id during the spring floods. We landed at an Indian
cent, which contained two numerous families, amount-
ing to thirty souls. These poor creatures were badly
clothed, and reduced to a miserable condition by the
ravages of the whooping-cough and measles. At the
time of our arrival they were busy in preparing a
sweating-house for the sick. This is a remedy, which
they consider, with the addition of singing and drum-
ming, to be the grand specific for all diseases. Our
companions having obtained some geese, in exchange
for rum and tobacco, we proceeded a few more miles
and encamped on Devil's Drum Island, having come,
during the day, twenty miles and a half. A second
party of Indians were encamped on an adjoining
island, a situation chosen for the purpose of killing
geese and ducks. ,

On the 16th we proceeded eighteen miles up the
Saskatchawan. - Its banks are low, covered with wil-
lows, and lined with drift timber. The surrounding
country is swampy, and intersected by the numerous
*>.rm8 of the river. After passing for twenty . i ^.hirty

In the Arctic Regions.

33

yards through the willow thicket on the banks of the
stream, we entered upon an extensive marsh, varied
only by a distant line of willows, which marks the
course of a creek or branch of the river. The branch
we navigated to-day is almost five hundred yards wide.
The exhalations from the marshy soil produced a low
fog, although the sky above was perfectly clear. In
the course of the day we passed an Indian encamp-
ment of three tents, whose inmates appeared to be in
a still more miserable condition than those we saw^
yesterday. They had just finished the ceremony ot
conjuration over some of their sick companions ; and
a dog, which waa recently killed as a sacrifice to some
deity, was hanging to a tree, where it would be left (I
was told) when they move(^ their encampment.

We continued our voyage up the river, to the 20 th,
with little variation of scenery or incident, traveling
in that time about thirty miles. The near approach
of winter was marked by severe frosts, which continued
all day, unless when the sun chanced to be unusually
bright, and the geese and ducks were observed to take
a southerly course in large flocks. On the morning of
the 20th we came to a party of Indians, encamped
behind the bank of the river, on the borders of a small
marshy lake, for the purpose of killing water-fowl.
Here we were gratified with the view of a very large
tent. Its length was about forty fectj its breadth

2»

34

Thirty Years

eighteen, and its covering was moose deer leather,
with apertures for the escape of the smoke from the
fires which were placed at each end ; a ledge of wood
was placed on the ground on both sides of the whole
length of the tent, within which were the sleeping
places, arranged probably according to families ; and
the drums and other instruments of enchantment were
piled up in the centre. Amongst the Indians there
were a great many half-breeds, who lead an Indian
life. Governor Williams gave a dram and a piece of
tobacco to each of the males of the party.

On the morning of the 21st, a heavy fall of snow
took place, which lasted until two in the afternoon.
In the evening we left the Saskatchawan, and entered
the Little River, one of the two streams by which
Pine Island Lake discharges its waters. We advanced
to-day fourteen miles and a quarter. On the 22d, the
weather was extremely cold and stormy, and we had
to contend against a strong head wind. The spray
froze as it fell, and the oars were so loaded with ice
as to be almost unmanageable. The length of our
voyage this day was eleven miles.

The following morning was very cold ; we embarked
at daylight, and pulled across a pavt of Pine Island
Lake, about three miles and n. half to Cumberland
House. The margin of the lake was so encrusted
with ice, that we had to break through a considerable

In the Arctic Regions.

35

space of it to approach the landing place. When wo
considered that this was the effect of only a few days'
frost at the commencement of winter, we were con-
vinced of the impracticability of advancing further by
water this season, and, therefore, resolved on accepting
Governor Williams's kind invitation to remain with
him at this post. We immediately visited Mr. Con-
nolly, the resident partner of the North- West Com--
pany, and presented to him Mr. M'Gillivray's circular
letter. He assured us that he should be most desir-
ous to forward our progress by every means in his
power, and we subsequently had ample proofs of his
sincerity and kindness. The unexpected addition of
our party to the winter residents at this post, rendered
an increase of apartments necessary ; and our men
were immediately appointed to complete and arrange
an unfinished building as speedily as possible.

Nov. 8. — Some mild weather succeeded to the se-
vere frosts we had at our arrival ; and the lake had
not been entirely frozen before the 6th ; but this morn-
ing the ice was sufficiently firm to admit of sledges
crossing it. The dogs were harnessed at a very early
hour, and the winter operations commenced by send-
ing for a supply of fish from Swampy Eiver, where
men had been stationed to collect it, just before the
frost set in. Both men and dogs seemed to enjoy the
change ; they started in full glee, and drove rapidly

36

Thirty Years

along. An Indian, who had come to the house on the
preceding evening, to request some provision for his
family, whom he represented to be in a state of star-
varion, accompanied them. His party had been suf-
fering greatly under the epidemic diseases of the
whooping-cough and measles ; and the hunters were
still in too debilitated a state to go out and provide
them with meat. A supply was given to him, and
the men were directed to bring his fatjier, an old and
faithful hunter, to the house, that he might have the
comforts of nourishment and warmth. F^ was
brought accordingly, but these attentions were una-
vailing, as he died a few days afterwards. T\*o days
before his death, I was surprised to observe him sit-
ting for near three hours, in a piercingly sharp day, in
the saw-pit, employed in gathering the dust, and
throwing it by handfuls over his l. ly, which was
naked to the waist. As the man was in possession of
his mental faculties, I conceived he was performing
some devotional act preparatory to his departure, which
he felt approaching ; and, induced by the novelty of
the incident, I went twice to observe him more close-
ly ; but when he perceived that he was noticed, he
immediately ceased his operation, hung down his head,
and by his demeanor, intimated that he considered
my'appearance an intrusion. The residents at the fort
could give me no information on the subject, and I

In the Arctic Regions.

37

could not learn that the Indians in general ohserve
any particular ceremony on the approach of death.

Nov. 15. — The sky had been overcast during the
last week ; the sun shone forth once only, and then
not sufficiently for the purpose of obtaining observa-
tions. Faint coruscations of the Aurora Borealis ap-
peared one evening, but their presence did not in the
least affect the electrometer nor the compass. The
ice daily became thicker in the lake, and the frost had
now nearly overpowered the rapid current of the Sask-
, atchawan River ; indeed, parties of men who were sent
from both the forts to search for the Indians, and pro-
cure whatever skins and provisions they might have
collected, crossed that stream this day on the ice ; the
white partridges made their first appearance near to
the house. These birds are considered as the infalli-
ble harbingers of severe weather,

Monday, Nov. 22. — The Saskatchawan, and every
other river, were now completely covered with ice, ex-
cept a small stream near to the fort through which the
current ran very powerfully. In the course of the
week we removed into the house our men had been
preparing for us since our arrival. We found it at
first extremely cold, notwithstanding a good fire was
kept in each apartment, and we frequently experi-
enced the extremes of heat and cold on opposite sides
of the body.

88

Thirty Years

Nov. 24. — We this day obtained observations for
the dip of the needle and intensity of the magnetic
force in a spare room. The dip was 83° 9' 45",
and tl^e difference produced by reversing the face of
the instrument, 13° 3' 6". When the needle was
faced to the west, it hung nearly perpendicular. The
Aurora Borealis was faintly visible for a short time
last evening. Some Indians arrived in search of pro-
vision, having been totally incapacitated from hunting
by sickness ; the poor creatures looked miserably ill,
and they represented their distress to have been ex-
treme. Few recitals are more affecting than those of
their sufferings during unfavorable seasons, and in
bad situations for hunting and fishing. Many assu- *.
ranees have been given me that men and women are
yet living who have been reduced to feed upon the
bodies of their own family, to prevent actual starva-
tion ; and a shocking case was cited to us of a woman
who had been principal agent in the destruction of
several persons, and amongst the number her husband
and nearest relatives, in order to support life.

Nov. 28. — The atmosphere had been clear every day
during the last week, about the end of which snow
fell, when the thermometer rose from 20^ below to
16° above zero. The Aurora Borealis was twice visi-
ble, but faint on both occasions. Its appearance did
not affect the electrometer, nor could we perceive the
compass to be disturbed.

In the Arctic Regions.

39

The men brought supplies of moose meat from the
hunter's tent, which is pitched near the Basquian
Hill, at the distance of forty or fifty miles from tlie
house, and from whence the greatest pnrt of the nieut
is procured. The residents have to send nearly the
same distance for their fish, and on this service horse-
sledges are used. Nets are daily set in Pine Island
Lake, which occasionally procure some fine sturgeon,
tittameg and trout, but not more than sufficient to
supply the officers' table.

Dec. 1.— This day was so remarkably fine, that we
procured another set of observations for the dip of the
needle in the open air ; the instrument being placed
firmly on a rock, the results gave 83^ 14' 22". The
change produced by reversing the face of the instrument
was 12'' 50' 56".

There was a determined thaw during the last three
days, which caused the Saskatchawan River, and some
parts of the lake, to break up, and rendered the tra-
veling across either of them dangerous. On this ac-
count the absence of Wilkes, one of our men, caused
no small anxiety. He had incautiously undertaken
the charge of conducting a sledge and dogs, in com-
pany with a "p rson, going to Swampy River for fish.
On their return, being unaccustomed to driving, he
became fatigued, and seated himself on his sledge, in
which situaiion his companion left him, presuming

40

Thirty Years

.*j*

that he would soon rise and hasten to follow his track.
He however returned safe in the morning, and report-:
ed that, foreseeing night would set in before he could
get across the lake, he prudently retired into the
woods before dark, where he remained until daylight ;
when the men, who had been despatched to look for
him, met him returning to the house, shivering witii
cold, he having; been unprovided with the materials
for lighting a fire ; which an experienced voyager never
neglects to carry.

We had mild weather until the 20th of December.
Oii the 13th there had been a decided thaw, which
caused the Saskatchawan, which had again frozen, to
re-open, and the passage across it was interrupted for
two days. We now received more agreeable accounts
from the Indians, who are recovering strength, and
beginning to hunt a little ; but it is generally feared
that their spirits have been so much depressed by the
loss of their children and relatives, that the season will
be far advanced before they can be roused to any ex-
ertion in searching for animals beyond what may be
necessary for their own support. It is much to be re-
gretted that these poor men, during their long inter-
course with Europeans, have not been taught how
pernicious is the grief which produces total inactivity,
and that they have not been furnished with any of the
consolations which the Christian religion never fails to

-■«^

•^

m

J^

«

In the Arctic Regions.

41

m:

afford. This, however, could hardly have been ex-
pected from persons who have permitted their own off-
spring, the half-casts, to remain in lamentable igno-
rance on a subject of such vital importance. It is pro-
bable, however, that an improvement will soon take
place among the latter class, as Governor Williams
proposes to make the children attend a Sunday school,
and has already begun to have divine service perform-
ed at his post.

The conversations which I have had with the gen-
tlemen in charge of these posts, convinced me of the
necessity of proceeding during the winter into the
Athabasca department, the residents of which are best
acquainted with the nature and resources of the coun-
try lying to the north of the Great Slave Lake ; and
from whence only guides, hunters, and interpreters
can be procured. I had previously written to the
partners of the North- West Company in that quarter,
requesting their assistance *in forwarding the Expedi-
tion, and stating what we should require of them ;
but, on reviewing the matter, and reflecting upon the
accidents that might delay these letters on the road,
I determined on proceeding to the Athabasca as soon
as I possibly could, and communicated my intention
to Governor Williams and Mr. Connolly, with a re-
quest that I might be furnished, by the middle of Jan-
uary, with the means of conveyance for three persons,

■'4l "■'

\ I

r

42

Thirty Years

intending that Mr. Back and Hepburn should accom-
pany me, whilst Dr. Kichardson and Mr. Hood re-
mained till the spring at Cumberland House.

After the 20th December the weather became cold,
the thermometer constantly below zero. Christmas-day
was particularly stormy ; but the gale did not prevent
the full enjoyment of the festivities which are annually
given at Cumberland House on this day. All the
men who had been despatched to different parts in
search of provision or furs returned to the fort on the
occasion, and were regaled with a substantial dinner
and a dance in the evening.

1820. The new year was ushered in by repeated

January 1. djgcharges of musketry ; a ceremony which
has been observed by the men of both the trading
Companies for many years. Our party dined with Mr.
Connolly, and were regaled with a beaver, which we
found extremely delicate. In the evening his men
were entertained with a dance, in which the Canadi-
ans exhibited some grace and much agility ; and they
contrived to infuse some portion of their activity and
spirits into the steps of their female companions. The
half-breed women are passionately fond of this amuse-
ment, but a stranger would imagine the contrary on
witnessing their apparent want of animation. On
such occasions they affect a sobriety of demeanor
which I understand to be the very oj)posite of their
general character.

In the Artie Ilegions.

43

>■■

CHAPTER IV.

""iS20. This day we set out from Cumberland House
for Carlton House ; but previously to detailing the
events of the journey, it may be proper to describe the
necessary equipments of a winter traveler in this re-
gion, which I cannot do better than by extracting the
following brief, but accurate, account of it from Mr.
Hood's journal : — '" ^ v i

*'■ A snow-shoe is made of two light bars of wood,
fastened together at their extremiti(\s, and projected
into curves by transverse bars. The side bars have
been so shaped by a frame, and dried before a fire
that the front part of the shoe turns up, lilie the prow
of a boat, and the pait behind terminates in an acute
angle ; the spaces between the bars are filled up with
a fine netting of leathern thongs, except that part be-
hind the main bar, which is occupied by the feet ; the
netting is there close and strong, and the foot is at-
tached to the main bar by straps passing round the
heel, but only fixing the toes, so that the heel rises
after each step, and the tail of the shoe is dragged on

44

Thirty Years

the snow. Between the main bar and another in front
of it, a small space is left, permitting the toes to
descend a little in the act of raising the heel to make
the step forward, which prevents their extremities from
chafinor. The len«:th of a snow-shoe is from four to six
feet, and the breadth one foot and a half, or one foot
and three-quarters, being adapted to. the size of the
wearer. The motion of walking in them is perfectly
natural, for one shoe is level with the snow, when the
edge of the other is passing over it. It is not easy to
use them among bushes, without frequent overthrows,
nor to rise afterwards without help. Each shoe weighs
about two pounds when unclogged with snow. The
northern Indian snow-shoes differ a little from those
of the southern Indians, having a greatercurvature on
the outside of each shoe ; one advantage of which is,
that when the foot rises the over-balanced side
deecends and throws off the snow. All the superiority
of European art has been unable to improve the native
contrivance of this useful machine.

" Sledges are made of two or three flat boards,
curving upwards in front, and fastened together by
transverse pieces of wood above. They are so thin
that, if heavily laden, they bend with the inequalities
of the surface over which they pass. The ordinary
dog-sledges are eight or ten feet long, and very
narrow, but the lading is secured to a lacing round

In the Arctic Regions.

45

the edges. The cariole used by the traders is merely
a covering of leather for the lower part of the body,
affixed to the common sledge, which is painted and
ornamented according to the taste of the proprietor.
Besides snow-shoes, each individual carries his blanket,
hatchet, steel, flint, and tinder, and generally fire-
arms."

The general dress of the winter traveler is a capoty
having a hood to put up under the fur cap in windy
weather, or in the woods, to keep the snow from his
neck ; leathern trowsers and Indian stockings, which
are closed at the ankles, round the upper part of his
moccasins, or Indian shoes, to prevent the snow from
getting into them. Over these he wears a blanket, or
leathern coat, which is secured by a belt round his
waist, to which his fire-bag, knife, and hatchet are
suspended.

Mr. Beck and I were accompanied by the seaman,
John Hepburn ; we were provided with two carioles
and two sledges ; and their drivers and dogs were
furnished in equal proportions by the two Companies.
Fifteen days' provision so completely filled the sledges,
that it was with difficulty we found room for a small
sextant, one suit of clothes, and three changes of
linen, together with our bedding. Notwithstanding
we thus restricted ourselves, and even loaded the
carioles with part of the luggage, instead of embarking

46

Thirty Years

in them ourselves, we did not set out without
considerable grumbling from the voyagers of both
Companies, respecting the overlading of their dogs.
However, we left the matter to be settled by our
friends at the fort, who were more conversant with
winter traveling than ourselves. Indeed, the loads
appeared to us so great that we should have been
inclined to listen to the complaints of the drivers.
The weight usually placed upon a sledge, drawn by
three dogs, cannot, at the commencement of a journey,
be estimated at less than three hundred pounds, which,
however, suffers a daily diminution from the con-
sumption of provisions. The sledge itself weighs
about thirty pounds. When the snow is hard frozen,
or the track well trodden, the rate of traveling is
about two miles and a half an hour, including rests,
or about fifteen miles a day. If the snow is loose,
the speed is necessarily much less and the fatigue
greater.

At eight in the morning of the 18th, we quitted the
fort, and took leave of our hospitable friend, Governor
Williams, whose kindness and attention I shall ever
remember with gratitude. Dr. Kichardson, Mr. Hood,
and Mr. Connolly, accompanied us along the Sas-
katchawan, until the snow became too deep for their
walking without snow-shoes. We then parted from
our associates, with sincere regret at the prospect of a

In the Arctic Bcghms.

47

long separation. Being accompanied by Mr. Mac-
kenzie, of the Hudson's Bay Company, who was going
to Isle d la Crosse, with four sledges under his charge,
we formed quite a procession, keeping in an Indian
file, in the tract of the man who preceded the foremost
dogs ; but, as the snow was deep, we proceeded
slowly on the surface of the river, which is about three
hundred and fifty yards wide, for the distance of six
miles, which we went to-day. Its alluvial banks and
islands are clothed with willows. At the place of our
encampment we could scarcely find sufficient pine
branches to floor " the hut," as the Orkney men term
the place where travelers rest. Its preparation, how-
ever, consists only in clearing away the snow to the
ground, and covering that space with pine branches,
over which the party spread their blankets and coats,
and sleep in warmth and comfort, by keeping a good
fire at their feet, without any other canopy than the
heaven, even though the thermometer should be far
below zero.

The arrival at the place of encampment gives imme-
diate occupation to every one of the party ; and it is
not until the sleeping- place has been arranged, and a
sufficiency of wood collected as. fuel for the night, that
the fire is allowed to be kindled. The dogs alone
remain inactive during this busy scene, being kept
harnessed to their burdens until the men have leisure

48

Thirty Years

to unstow the sledges, and hang upon the trees every
species of provision out of the reach of these rapacious
animals. We had ample experience, hefore morning,
of the necessity of this precaution, as they contrived
to steal a considerable part of our stores, almost from
underneath Hepburn's head, notwithstanding their
having been well-fed at supper.

This evening we found the mercury of our ther-
mometer had sunk into the bulk, and was frozen. It
arose again into the tube on being held to the fire,
but quickly re-descended into the bulb on being
removed into the air ; we could not, therefore, ascer-
tain by it the temperature of the atmosphere, either
then or during our journey. The weather was per-
fectly clear.

Jan. 19. — We arose this morning after the enjoy-
ment of a sound and comfortable repose, and recom-
menced our journey at sun-rise, but made slow progress
through the deep snow. The task of beating the
track for the dogs was so very fatiguing, that each of
the men took the lead in turn, for an hour and a half.
The scenery of the banks of the river improved as we
advanced to-day ; some firs and poplars were inter-
mixed with the willows. We passed through two
creeks, formed by islands, and encamped on a pleasant
spot on the north shore, having only made six miles
lind three-quarters actual distance.

In the Arctic Regions.

49

The next day we pursued our course along the
river ; the dogs had the greatest'difficulty in dragging,
their heavy burdens through the snow. We halted
to refresh them at the foot of Sturgeon Eiver, and
obtained the latitude 53° 51' 41" N. This is a small
stream, which issues from a neighboring lake. We
encamped near to Musquito Point, having walked
about nine miles. The termination of the day's
journey was a great relief Jto me, who had been
suffering during the greater part of it, in consequence
of my feet having been galled by the snow-shoes ;
this, however, is an evil which few escape on their
initiation to winter traveling. It excites no pity
from the more experienced companions of the journey,
who travel on as fast as they can, regardless of the
pain of the sufferer,

Mr. Isbester, and an Orkney man, joined us from
Cumberland House, and brought some pemmican
which we had left behind ; a supply which was sea-
sonable after our recent loss. The general occupation
of Mr. Isbester during the winter, is to follow or find
out the Indians, and collect their furs, and his present
journey will appear adventurous to persons accustomed
to the certainty of traveling on a well-known road.
He is going in search of a band of Indians, of whom
no information had been received since last October,

and his only guide for finding them was their promise

3

50

Thirty Years

to hunt in a certain quarter ; but he looked at the
jaunt with indifferertee, and calculated on meeting
them in six or seven days, for which time only he had
provision. Few persons in this country suffer more
from want of food than those occasionally do who are
employed on this service. They are furnished with a
siifficiency of provision to serve until they reach the
part where the Indians are expected to be ; but it
frequently occurs that, on their arrival at the spot,
they have gone elsewhere, and that a recent fall of
snow has hidden their track, in which case the voyager8
have to wander about in search of them ; and it often
happens, when they succeed in finding the Indians,
that they are unprovided with meat. Mr. Isbester
had been placed in this distressing situation only a
few weeks ago, and passed four days without either
himself or his dogs tasting food. At length, when he
had determined on killing one of the dogs to satisfy his
hunger, he happily met with a beaten track, which
led him to some Indian lodges, where he obtained a
supply of food.

The morning of the 21st was cold, but pleasant for
traveling. We left Mr. Isbester and his companion,
and crossed the peninsula of Musquito Point, to avoid
a detour of several miles which the river makes.
Though we put up at an early hour, we gained eleven
miles this day. Our encampment was at the lower

m:

In the Arctic Rcfjiona.

51

extremity of Tobin's Falls. The snow being less deep
on the rough ice which enclosed this rapid, we pro-
ceeded, on the 22d, at a quicker pace than usual,
though at the expense of great suffering to Mr. Back,
myself, and Hepburn, all our feet being much galled.
After passing Tobin's Falls, the river expands to the
breadth of five hundred yards, and its banks are well
wooded with pines, poplars, birch, and willows. Many
tracks of moose-deer and wolves were observed near
the encampment.

On the 23d the sky was generally overcast, and there
were several snow showers. We saw two wolves and
some foxes cross the river in the course of the day,
and passed many tracks of the moose and red deer.
Soon after we had encamped the^ snow fell heavily,
which was an advantage to us after we had retired to
rest, by its affording an additional covering to our
blankets. The next morning, whilst at breakfast, two
men arrived from Carlton on their way to Cumberland.
Having the benefit of their track, we were, to our
great joy, able to get on at a quick pace without snow-
shoes. My only regret was, that the party proceeded
too fast to allow Mr. Black's halting occasionally, to
note the bearings of the points, and delineate the
course of the river,* without being left behind. As

* This was afterwards done by Dr. Richardson during a voyage to Carltoo
in the spring.

%'

52

Thirty Years

the provisions were getting short, I could not, there-
fore, with propriety, check the progress by interrupt-
ing the party ; and, indeed, it appeared to me less
necessary, as I understood the river had been carefully
surveyed. In the afternoon, we had to resume the in-
cumbrance of the snow-shoes, and to pass over a rug-
ged part where the ice had been piled over a collection
of stones. The tracks of animals were very abundant
on the river, particularly near the remains of an old
establishment, called the Lower Nipp6ween.

So much snow had fallen on the night of the 24th,
that the track we intended to follow was completely
covered, and our march to-day was very fatiguing.
We passed the remains of two red-deer, lying at the
basis of perpendicular cliffs, from the summits of which
they had, probably, been forced by the wolves. These
voracious animals, who are inferior in speed to the
moose and red-deer, are said frequently to have re-
course to this expedie>/ in places where extensive
plains are bounded by precipitous cliifs. Whilst the
deer are quietly grazing, the w^olves assemble in great
numbers, and, forming a crescent, creep slowly towards
the herd so as not to alarm them much at first, but
when they perceive that they have fairly hemmed in
the unsuspecting creatures, and cut off their retreat
across the plain, they move more quickly, and with
hideous yells terrify their prey and urge them to flight

In the Arctic Regions.

53

great

flight

by the only open way, which is that towards the pre-
cipice ; appearing to know, that when the herd is once
ut full speed, it is easily driven over the cliflf, the rear-
most urging on those that are before. The wolves
then descend at their leisure, and feast on the mangled
carcasses. One of these ferocious animals passed close
to the person who was beating the track, but did not
offer any violence. We encamped at sunset, after
walking thirteen miles.

On the 26th, we were rejoiced at passing the half-
way point, between Cumberland and Carlton. The
scenery of the river was less agreeable beyond this
point, as there was a scarcity of wood. One of our
men was despatched after a red-deer that appeared on
the bank. He contrived to approach near enough to
fire twice, though without success, before the animal
moved away. After a fatiguing march of seventeen
miles, we put up at the upper Nipp6ween, a deserted
establishment ; and performed the comfortable opera-
tions of shaving and washing for the first time since
our departure from Cumberland, the weather having
been hitherto too severe. "We passed an uncomfort-
able and sleepless night, and agreed next morning to
encamp in future in the open air, as preferable to the
imperfect shelter of a deserted house without doors or
windows.

The morning was extremely cold, but fortunately

54

Thirty Years

the wind was light, which prevented our feeling it se-
verely ; experience indeed had taught us that the sen-
sation of cold depends less upon the state of temper-
ature, than the force of wind. An attempt was made
to obtain the latitude, which failed in consequence of
the screw, which adjusts the telescope of the sextant,
being immovably fixed, from the moisture upon it
having frozen. The instrument could not be replaced
in its case before the ice was thawed by the fire in the
evening.

In the course of the day we passed the confluence
of the south branch of the Saskatchawan. which rises
from the rocky mountains near the sources of the
northern branch of the Missouri. At Coles Falls,
which commences a short distance from the branch, we
found the surface of the ice very uneven, and many
spots of open water.

We passed the ruins of an establishment, which the
traders had been compelled to abandon, in consequence
of the intractable conduct and pilfering habits of the
Assin^boine Indians ; and we learnt that all the resi-
dents at a post on the south branch, had been cut off
by the same tribe some years ago. We traveled
twelve miles to-day. The wolves serenaded us through
the night with a chorus of their agreeable howling,
but none of them ventured near the encampment.
Mr. Back's repose was disturbed by a more serious

In the Arctic Regions.

65

evil ; his buffalo robe caught fire, and the shoes on
his ft^, being contracted by the heat, gave him such
pain, that he jumped up in the cold, and ran into the
snow as the only means of obtaining relief.

On the 28th we had a strong and piercing wind
from N. W. in our faces, and much snow-drift ; we
were compelled to walk as quick as we could, and to
keep constantly rubbing the exposed parts of the
skin, to prevent their being frozen, but some of the
party suffered in spite of every precaution. We des-
cried three red-deer on the banks* of the river, and
were about to send the best marksmen after them,
when they espied the party and ran away. A supply
of meat would have been very seasonable, as the men's
provision became scanty, and the dogs were without
food, except a little burnt leather. Owing to the
scarcity of wood, we had to walk until a late hour,
before a good spot for an encampment could be found,
and had then come only eleven miles. The night was
miserably cold ; our tea froze in the tin pots before
we could di^nk it, and even a mixture of spirits and
water became quite thick by congelation ; yet, after
we lay down to rest, we felt no inconvenience, and
heeded not the wolves, though they were howling
within view.

The 29th was also very cold, until the sun burst
forth, when the traveling became pleasant. The

56

Tliirty Years

banks of the river are very scantily supplied with
wood through the part we passed to-day. i^ long
track on the south shore, called Holms Plains, is des-
titute of anything like a tree, and the opposite bank
has only stunted willows ; but after walking sixteen
miles, we came to a spot better wooded, and encam'p-
ed opposite to a remarkable place, called by the voya-
gers " The Neck of Land."^

On the thirtieth we directed our course round The
Neck of Land, which is well clothed with pines and
firs ; though the opposite or western bank is nearly
destitute of wood. This contrast between the two
banks continued until we reached the commencement
of what our companions called the barren grounds,
when both the banks were alike bare. Vast plains
extend behind the southern bank, which afford excel-
lent pasturage for the buffalo, or other grazing animals.
In the evening we saw a herd of the former, but could
not get near to them. After walking fifteen miles we
encamped. The men's provision having been entirely
expended last night, we shared our small stock with
them. The poor dogs had been toiling some days on
the most scanty fare ; their rapacity, in consequence,
was unbounded ; they forced open a deal box, contain-
ing tea, &c., to get at a small piece of meat which had
been incautiously placed in it.
As soon as daylight permitted, the party commenc-

I

In the Arctic Eegions.

57

ed their march, in the expectation of reaching Carlton
House to breakfast, but we did not arrive until noon,
although the track was good. We were received by
Mr. Prudens, the gentleman in charge of the post,
with that friendly attention which Governor Williams'
circular was calculated to insure at every station ; and
were soon afterwards regaled. with a substantial dish
of buflfalo steaks, which would have been thought ex-
cellent under any circumstances, but were particular-
ly relished by us, though eaten without either bread
or vegetables, after our traveling fare of dried meat
and pemmican. After this repast, we had the com-
fort of changing our traveling dr 9sses, which had been
worn for fourteen days. This was a gratification which
can only be truly estimated by those who may. have
been placed under similar circumstances.

Feb. 8. — Having recovered from the swellings and
pains which our late march from Cumberland had oc-
casioned, we prepared for the commencement of our
journey to Isle d la Crosse, and requisitions were made
on both the establishments for the means of convey-
ance, and the necessary supply of provisions for the
party, which was readily furnished. On the 9th, the
carioles and sledges were loaded, and sent off after
breakfast ; but Mr. Back and I remained till the after-
noon, as Mr. Prudens had offered that his horses should

convey us to the encampment. At 3 P.M. we parted

3«

58

Thirty Tears

■•S^'

from our kind host, and in passing through the gate
were honored with a salute of musketry. After riding
six miles, we joined the men at their encampment,
which was made under the shelter of a few poplars.
The dogs had been so much fatigued in wading
through the very deep snow with their heavy burdens,
having to drag upwards of ninety pounds weight each,
that they could get no farther. Soon after our arrival
the snow began to fall heavily, and it continued
through the greater part of the night.

Our next day's march was therefore particularly te-
dious, the snow being deep, and the route lying across
an unvarying level, destitute of wood, except one
small cluster of willows. In the afternoon we reached
the end of the plain, and came to an elevation, on
which poplars, willows, and some pines grew, where
we encamped, having traveled ten miles. We crossed
three small lakes, two of fresh water, and one of salt,
near the latter of which we encamped, and were, in
consequence, obliged to use for our tea, water made
from snow, which has always a disagreeable taste.

We had scarcely ascended the hill on the following
morning, when a large herd of red deer was perceived
grazing at a little distance ; and, though we were
amply supplied with provision, our Canadian compan-
ions could not resist the temptation of endeavoring to
add to our stock. A half-breed hunter was therefore

In the Arctic Regions.

09

sent after them. He succeeded in wounding one, but
not so as to prevent its running off with the herd, in
a direction wide of our course. A couple of rabbits
and a brace of wood partridges were shot in the after-
noon. There was an agreeable variety of hill and dale in
the scenery we passed through to-day ; and sufficient
wood for ornament, but not enough to crowd the pic-
ture. The valleys were intersected by several small
lakes and pools, whose snowy covering was happily
contrasted with the dark green of the pine trees which
surrounded them. After ascending a moderately high
hill by a winding path through a close wood, we
opened suddenly upon Lake Iroquois, and had a full
view of its picturesque shores. We crossed it and en-
camped.

Though the sky was cloudless, yet the weather was
warm. We had the gratification of finding a beaten
track soon after we started on the morning of the 12th,
and were thus enabled to walk briskly. We crossed
at least twenty hills, and found a small lake or pool
at the foot of each. The destructive ravages of fire
were visible during the greater part of the day. The
only wood we saw for miles together consisted of pine
trees, stript of their branches and bark by this element :
in other parts poplars alone were growing, which we
have remarked invariably to succeed the pine after a
conflagration. We walked twenty miles to-day, but
the direct distance was onlv sixteen mil«^R.

!

60

Thirty Tears

The remains of an Indian hut were found in a deep
glen, and close to it was placed a pile of wood, which
our companions supposed to cover a deposit of provi-
sion. Our Canadian voyagers, induced by an insatia-
ble desire of procuring food, proceeded to remove the
upper pieces, and examine its contents ; when to their
surprise, they found the body of a female, clothed in
leather, which appeared to have been recently placed
there. Her former garments, the materials for mak-
ing a fire, a fishing line, a hatchet, and a bark dish,
were laid beside the corpse. The wood was carefully
replaced. A small owl, perched on a tree near the
spot, called forth many singular remarks from our
companions, as to its being a good or bad omen.
* We walked the whole of the 13 th over flat meadow
land, which is much resorted to by the buffalo at all
seasons. We saw some herds, but our hunters were
too unskilful to get within shot. In the afternoon we
reached Stinking Lake, which is nearly of an oval
form. Its shores are very low and swampy, to which
circumstances, and not to the bad quality of the
waters, it owes its Indian name. Our observations
place its western part in latitude 53° 25' 24" N.,
longitude 107° 18' 58" W., variation 20° 32' 10" E.

After a march of fifteen miles and a half, we en-
camped among a few pines, at the only spot at which
we saw sufficient wood for making our fire during the

In the Arctic Regions.

61

day. Tho next morning, about an hour after we had
commenced our march, we came upon a beaten track,
and perceived recent marks of snow-shoes. In a short
time an Iroquois joined us, who was residing with a
party of Cree Indians, to secure the meat and furs
they should collect, for the North- West Company.
He accompanied us as far as the stage on which his
meat was placed, and then gave us a very pressing in-
vitation to halt for the day and partake of his fare ;
which, as the hour was too early, we declined, much
to the annoyance of our Canadian companions, who
had been cherishing the prospect of indulging their
amazing appetites at this well-furnished store, ever
since the man had been with us. He gave them,
however, a small supply previous to our parting. The
route now crossed some ranges of hills, on which fir,
birch, and poplar, grew so thickly, that we had much
difficulty in getting the sledges through the narrow
pathway between them. In the evening we descend-
ed from the elevated ground, crossed three swampy
meadows, and encamped at their northern extremity,
within a cluster of large pine-trees, the branches of
which were elegantly decorated with abundance of a
greenish yellow lichen. Our march was ten miles.
The weather was very mild, almost too warm for the
exercise we were taking.
We had a strong gale from the N. W. during the

62

Thirty Years

night, which subsided as the morning opened. One
of the sledges had been so much broken yesterday
amongst the trees, that we had to divide its cargo
among the others. We started after this had been
arranged, and finding almost immediately a firm track,
we soon arrived at some Indian lodges to which it led.
The inhabitants were Orees, belonging to the posts on
the Saskatchawan, from whence they had come to hunt
beaver. We made but a short stay, and proceeded
through a Swamp to Pelican Lake. Our view to the
right was bounded by a range of lofty hills, which ex-
tended for several miles in a north and south di-
rection, which, it may be remarked, has been that of
all the hilly land we have passed since quitting the
plain.

Pelican Lake is of an irregular form, about six miles
from east to west, and eight from north to south ; it
decreases to the breadth of a mile towards the north-
ern extremity, and is there terminated by a creek.
We went up this creek for a short distance, and then
struck into the woods, and encamped among a cluster
of the firs, which the Canadians term cypres (pinua
inops) ; having come fourteen miles and a half.

Feb. 16. — Shortly after commencing the journey to-
day, we met an Indian and his family who had come
from the houses at Green Lake ; they informed us
the track was well beaten the whole way. We, there-

In the Arctic Regions.

63

fore, put fbrth our utmost speed in the hope of reach-
ing them hy night ; but were disappointed, and had
to halt at dark, about twelve miles from them, in a
fisherman's hut, which was unoccupied. Frequent

showers of snow fell during the day, and the atmos-
phere was thick and gloomy.

We started at an early hour the following morning,
and reached the Hudson's Bay Company's post to
breakfast, and were received very kindly by Mr. Mac-
Farlane, the gentleman in charge. The other estab-
lishment, situated on the opposite side of the river,
was under the direction of Mr. Dougal Cameron, one
of the partners of the North- West Company, on whom
Mr. Back and I called soon after our arrival, and were
honored with a salute of musketry.

These establishments are small, but said to be well
situated for the procuring of furs ; as the numerous
creeks in their vicinity are mtich resorted to by the
beaver, otter, and musquash. The residents usually
obtain a superabundant supply of provision. This
season, however, they have barely had sufficient for
their own support, owing to the epidemic which has
incapacitated the Indians for hunting. The Green
Lake lies nearly north and south, is eighteen miles in
lenffth, and does not exceed one mile and a half of
breadth in any part. The water is deep, and it is in
consequence one of the last lakes in the country that

64

Thirty Years

is frozen. Excellent tittameg and trout are caught in
it from March to December, but after that time most
of the fish remove to some larger lake.

We remained two days, awaiting the return of some
men who had been sent to the Indian lodges for meat,
and who were to go on with us. Mr. Back and I did
not need this rest, having completely surmounted the
pain which the walking in snow-shoes had occasioned.
We dined twice with Mr. Cameron, and received from
him many useful suggestions respecting our future
operations. This gentleman having informed us that
provisions would, probably, be very scarce next spring
in the Athabasca department, in consequence of the
sickness of the Indians during the hunting season, un-
dertook at my request to cause a supply of pemmi-
can to be conveyed from the Saskatchawan to Isle a
la Crosse for our use during the winter, and I wrote
to apprize Dr. Kichardson and Mr. Hood, that they
would find it at the latter post when they passed ;
and also to desire them to bring as much as the canoes
would stow from Cumberland.

The atmosphere was clear and cold during our stay ;
observations were obtained at the Hudson Bay fort,
lat. 54° 16' 10" N., long. 107° 29' 52" W., var. 22°
6' 36" E. '

Feb. 20. — Having been equipped with carioles,
sledges, and provisions, from the two posts, we this

^mu

MMt««*^MMM4ilHMtaikil

ll>-WMi»Bi ■■liBli^M.

In the Arctic Regions.

65

day recommenced our journey, and were much amused
by the novelty of the salute given at our departure,
the guns being principally fired by the half-breed wo-
men in the absence of the men. Our course was di-
rqgted to the end of the lake, and for a short distance
along a small river ; we then crossed the woods to the
Beaver River, which we found to be narrow and very
serpentine, having moderately high banks. We en-
camped about one mile and a half further up among
poplars. The next day we proceeded along the river ;
it was winding, and about two hundred yards broad.
We passed the mouths of two rivers whose waters it
receives ; the latter one, we were informed, is a chan-
nel by which the Indians go to the Lesser Slave Lake.
The banks of the river became higher as we advanced,
and were furnished with pines, poplars, and willows.

Though the weather was very cold, we traveled more
comfortably than at any preceding time since our de-
parture from Cumberland, as we were enabled, by
having light carioles, to ride nearly the whole day,
and to be warmly covered up with a buffalo robe.
Mr. M'Leod, of the North- West Company, joined us.
He had kindly brought some things from Green Lake,
which our sledges could not carry. Pursuing our
route along the river, we reached at an early hour the
upper extremity of the " Grand Rapid," whc-re the ice
was BO rough that the carioles and sledges had to be

ee

Thirty Tears

f*

conveyed across a point of land. Soon after noon we
left the river, inclining N. E., and directed our course
N. W., until we reached Long Lake, and encamped at
its northern extremity, having come twenty-three
miles. This lake is about fourteen miles long, ^d
from three-quarters to one mile and a half broad ; its
shores and islands low, but well wooded. There wero
frequent snow-showers during the day.

Feb. 23. — The night was very stormy, but the wind
became more moderate in the morning. We passed
to-day through several nameless lakes and swamps be-
fore we came to Train Lake, which received its name
from being the place where the traders procured the
birch to make the sledges, or traineaux ; but this
wood has been all used, and there only remain pines
and a few poplars. We met some sledges laden with
fish, kindly sent to meet us by Mr. Clark, of the Hud-
son's Bay Company, directly he heard of our approach.
Towards the evening the weather became much moie
unpleasant ; we were exposed to a piercingly cold
wind, and much snow-drift, in traversing Isle i la
Crosse Lake ; we were, therefore, highly pleased at
reaching the .Hudson's Bay House by six P. M. We
were received in the most friendly manner by Mr.
Clark, and honored by volleys of musketry on our ar-
rival. Similar marks of attention were shewn to us
on the following day by Mr. Bethune, the partner in

In the Arctic Regions.

67

charge of the North- West Company's fort. I found
here the letters which I had addressed to the partners
of the North- West Company, in the Athabasca, from
Cumberland, in November last. This circumstance
convinced us of the necessity of our present journey.

These establishments are situated on the southern
side of the lake, and close to each other. They are
forts of considerable importance, being placed at a
point of communication with the English River, the
Athabasca, and Columbia Districts. The country
around them is low, and intersected with water, and
was formerly much frequented by beavers and otters,
which, however, have been so much hunted by the
Indians, that their number is greatly decreased. The
Indians frequenting these forts are the Crees and some
Chipewyans ; they scarcely ever come except in the
spring and autumn ; in the former season to bring
their winter's collection of furs, and in the latter to get
the stores they require.

Three Ohipewyan lads came in during our stay, to
report what furs the band to which they belonged had
collected, and to desire they might be sent for ; the
Indians having declined briagiug either furs or meat
themselves, since the opposition between the Companies
commenced. Mr. Back drew the portrait of one of the
boys.

Isle d la Crosse Lake receives its name from an island

68

Thirty Years

situated near the forts, on which *he Indians formerly
assembled annually to amuse themselves at the game
of the Cross. It is justly celebrated for abundance of
the finest tittameg, which weigh from five to fifteen
pounds. The residents live principally upon this most
delicious fish, which fortunately can be eaten a long
time without producing any disrelish. They are plen-
tifully caught with nets throughout the year, except
for two or three months.

March 4. — We witnessed the Aurora Borealis very
brilliant, for the second time since our departure from
Cumberland. A winter encampment is not a favor-
able situation for viewing this phenomenon, as the
trees in general hide the sky. Arrangements had been
made for recommencing our journey to-day, but the
wind was stormy, and the snow had drifted too much
for traveling with comfort ; we therefore stayed and
dined with Mr. Bethune, who promised to render every
assistance in getting pemmican conveyed to us from
the Saskatchawan, to be in readiness for our canoes
when they might arrive in the spring ; Mr. Clark has
also engaged to procure six bags for us, and to furnish
our canoes with any other supplies which may be
wanted, and can be spared from his post, and to con-
tribute his aid in forwarding the pemmican to the
Athabasca, if our canoes cannot carry it all.

I feel greatly indebted to Mr. Clark, for much val-

In the Artie Regions.

69

ral-

uable information respecting the country and the In-
dians residing to the north of the Slave Lake, and for
furnishing me with a list of stores he supposed we
should require. This gentleman had resided some
years on the Mackensie's River, and had been once so
far towards its mouth as to meet the Esquimaux in
great numbers. But they assumed such a hostile at-
titude, that he deemed it unadvisable to attempt open-
ing any communication with them, and retreated as
speedily as he could.

The observations we obtained here shewed that the
chronometers had varied their rates a little, in conse-
quence of the jolting of the carioles in which we rode ;
but their errors and rates were ascertained previous to
our departure. We observed the position of this fort
to be latitude 55° 25' 35" N., longitude 107«» 51' 00"
W., by lunars reduced back from Fort Chipewyan,
variation 22° 15' 48" W., dip 84° 13' 35"

March 5. — We recommenced our journey this morn-
ing, having been supplied with the means of convey-
ance by both the companies in equal proportions. Mr.
Clark accompanied us with the intention of going as
far as the boundary of his district. This gentleman
was an experienced winter traveler, and we derived
much benefit from his suggestions ; he caused tlie
men to arrange the encampment with more attention
to comfort and shelter than our former companions had

i

70

Thirty Years

done. After marching eighteen miles we put up on
Gravel Point, in the Deep River.

At nine the next morning, we came to the com-
mencement of Clear Lake. We crossed its southern
extremes, and then went over a point of land to Buf-
falo Lake, and encamped after traveling twenty-six
miles. After supper we were entertained until mid-
night with paddling songs, by our Canadians, who re-
quired very little stimulus beside their natural vivac-
ity, to afford us this diversion. The next morning we
arrived at the establishments which are situated on the
western side of the lake, near to a small stream, called
the Beaver River. They were small log buildings,
hastily erected last October, for the convenience of the
Indians who hunt in the vicinity. Mr. MacMurray,
a partner in the N. W. Company, having sent to Isle
d la Crosse an invitation to Mr. Back and me, our
carioles were driven to his post, and we experienced
the kindest reception. These posts are frequented by
only a few Indians, Crees and Chipewyans. The
country round is not iHufficiently stocked with animals
to afford support to many families, and the traders al-
most entirely subsist on fish caught in the autumn,
prior to the lake being frozen. The water being shal-
low, the fish remove to a deeper part, as soon as the
lake is covered with ice. The Aurora Borealis was
brilliantly displayed on both the nights we remained

•*«*■

"«W^

In the Arctic Iteylons.

71

here, but particularly on the 7th, when its appearances
were most diversified, and the motion extremely rapid.
Its coruscations occasionally concealed from sight stars
of the first magnitude in passing over them, at other
times these were faintly discerned through them ;
once I perceived a stream of light to illumine the
under surface of some clouds as it passed along.
There was no perceptible noise.

Mr. MacMurray gave a dance to his voyagers and
the half breed women ; this is a treat which they ex-
pect on the arrival of any stranger at the post.

We were presented by this gentleman, with the
valuable skin of a black fox, which he had entrapped
some days before our arrival ; it was forwarded to
England with other specimens.

Our observations place the North- West Company's
house in latitude Qb"" 53' 00" N., longitude 108«> 51'
10" W. ; variation 22«> 33' ^2" E.

The shores of Buffalo Lake are of moderate height,
and well wooded, but immediately beyond the bank
the country is very swampy, and intersected with
water in every direction. At some distance from the
western side there is a conspicuous hill, which we hail-
ed with much pleasure, as being the first interruption
to the tedious uniform scene we had for some time
passed through.

Ou the 10th we recommenced our journey after

i i

,,r

4

■■ ■
I'

72

Thirty Years

breakfast and traveled quickly, as we had the advan-
tage of a well beaten track. At the end of eighteen
miles we entered upon the river " Locbe," which has
a serpentine course, and is confined between alluvial
banks that support stunted willows and a few pines ;
we encamped about three miles further on ; and in
the course of the next day*s march perceived several
holes in the ice, and many unsafe places for tho
sledges. Our companions said the ice of this river is
always in the same insecure state, even during the
most severe winter, which they attribute to warm
springs. Quitting the river we crossed a portage and
came upon the Methye Lake, and soon afterwards ar-
rived at the trading posts situated on the western side
of it. These were perfect huts, which had been hastily
built after the commencement of the last winter.
We here saw two hunters who were Ohipewyan half-
breeds, and made many inquiries of them respecting
the countries we expected to visit, but we found them
quite ignorant of every part beyond the Athabasca
Lake. They spoke of Mr. Hearne and cf his compan-
ion Matonnabee, but did not add to our stock of in-
formation respecting that journey. It had happened
before their birth, but they remembered the expedi-
tion of Sir Alexander Mackenzie towards the sea.

This is a picturesque lake, about ten miles long and
six broad, and receives its name from a species of fish

Illlil III II I I

In the Arctic Regions.

73

fting
Lhem
iasca
|pan-
in-
lened
)edi-

and
fish

caught in it. This fish, the methye, is not much es-
teemed ; the residents never eat any part but the liver
except through necessity, the dogs dislike even that.
The tittameg and trout are also caught in the fall of
the year.

On the 13th we renewed our journey, and parted
from Mr. Clark, to whom we were much obliged for
his hospitality and kindness. We soon reached the
Methye Portage, and had a very pleasant ride across
it in our carioles. The track was good, and led
through groups of pines, so happily placed that it
would not have required a great stretch of imagina-
tion to fancy ourselves driving through a well arran-
ged park. We had now to cross a small lake, and
then gradually ascended hills beyond it, until we ar-
rived at the summit of a lofty chain of mountains,
commanding the most picturesque and romantic pros-
pect we had yet seen in this country. Two ranges of
high hills run parallel to each other for several miles,
until the faint blue haze hides their particular charac-
ters, when they slightly change their course, and are
lost to the view. The space between them is occu-
pied by nearly a level plain, through which a river
pursues a meandering course, and receives supplies
from the creeks and rills issuing from the mountains
on each side. The prospect was delightful even amid
the snow, and though marked with all the cheerless

4

t

74

Thirty Years

characters of winter ; how much more charming must
it be when the trees are in leaf, and the ground is ar-
rayed in summer verdure ! Some faint idea of the
difference was conveyed to my mind by witnessing tho
effect of the departing rays of a brilliant sun. The
distant prospect, however, is surpassed in grandeur by
the wild scenery which appeared immediately below
our feet. There the eye penetrates into vast ravines
from two to three hundred feet in depth, that are
clothed with trees, and lie on either side of the nar-
row pathway descending to the river over eight suc-
cessive ridges of hills. At one spot, termed the Cocks-
comb, the passenger stands insulated as it were on a
small slip, where a false step might precipitate him
into the glen. From this place Mr. Back took an in-
teresting and accurate sketch of the view, to enable
him to do which, we encamped early, having come
twenty-one miles.

The Methye Portage is about twelve miles in extent,
and over this space the canoes and all their cargoes
are carried, both in going to and from the Athabasca
department. It is part of the lange of mountains
which separates the waters flowing south from those
flowing north. According to Sir Alexander Macken-
zie, " this range of hills continues in a S. W. direction
until its local height is lost between the Saskatcha-
wtm and Elk Rivers, close on the banks of the former,

In the Arctic Regions.

n

mt,
roes
Isca
dns
lose
len-
[ion
Iha-
ler.

in latitude 53° 36' N., longitude 113° 45\W., when
it appears to take its course due north.

At daylight on the 14th we began to descend the
range of hills leading towards the river, and no small
care was required to prevent the sledges from being
broken in going down these almost perpendicular
heights, or being precipitated into the glens on each
side. As a precautionary measure the dogs were taken
off, and the sledges guided by the men, notwithstand-
ing which they descended with amazing rapidity, and

the men were thrown into the most ridiculous attitudes
in endeavoring to stop them. When we had arrived
at the bottom I could not but feel astonished at the
laborious task which the voyagers have twice in the
year to encounter at this place, in conveying their-
stores backwards and forwards. We went across the
Clear Water Eiver, which runs at the bases of these
hills, and followed an Indian track along its northern
bank, by which we avoided the White Mud and Good
Portages. We afterwards followed the river as far as
the Pine Portage, when we passed through a very ro-
mantic defile of rocks, which presentt d the appearance
of Gothic ruins, and their rude characters were happi-
ly contrasted with the softness of the snow, and the
darker foliage of the pines which crowned their sum-
mits. We next crossed the Cascade Portage, which
is the last on the way to the Athabasca Lake, and we

76

Thirty Years

soon afterwards came to some Indian tents, containing
five families, belonging to the Chipewyan tribe. We
smoked the calumet in the Chief's tent, whose name was
the Thumb, and distributed some tobacco and a weak
mixture of spirits and water among the men. They
received this civility with much less grace than the
Crees, and seemed to consider it a matter of course.
There was an utter neglect of cleanliness, and a total
want of comfort in their tents ; and the poor creatures
were miserably clothed. Mr. Frazer, who accompanied
us from the Methye Lake, accounted for their being
in this forlorn condition by explaining, that this band
of Indians had recently destroyed every thing they
possessed, as a token of their great grief for the loss of
their relatives in the prevailing sickness. It appears
that no article is spared by these unhappy men when
a near relative dies ; their clothes and tents are cut to
pieces, their guns broken, and every other weapon
rendered useless, if some person do not remove these ar-
ticles from their sight, which is seldom done. Mr. Back
sketched one of the children. This delighted the
father very much, who charged the boy to be very
good now, since his picture had been drawn by a great
Chief. We learned that they prize pictures very
highly, and esteem any they can get, however badly
executed, as efficient charms. They were unable to
give us any information respecting the country beyond

In the Arctic Regions.

77

yond

the Atliabasca Lake, which is the boundary of their
peregrinations to the northward. Having been ap-
prized of our coming, they had prepared an encamp-
ment for US ; but we had witnessed too many proofs
of their importunity to expect that we could pass the
night near them in any comfort, whilst either spirits,
tobacco, or sugar, remained in our possession ; and
therefore preferred to go about two miles further
along the river, and to encamp among a cluster of
fine pine trees, after a journey of sixteen miles.

On the morning of the 15th, in proceeding along
the river, we perceived a strong smell of sulphur, and
on the north shore found a quantity of it scattered,
which seemed to have been deposited by some spring
in the neighborhood : it appeared very pure and good.
We continued our course the whole day along the
river, which is about four hundred yards wide, has
some islands, and is confined between low land, ex-
tending from the bases of the mountains on each side.
We put up at the end of thirteen miles, and were then
joined by a Chipewyan, who came, as we supposed,
to serve as our guide to Pierre au Calumet, but as
none of the party could communicate with our new
friend, otherwise than by signs, we waited patiently
until the morning to see what he intended to do.
The wind blew a gale during the night, and the snow
fell heavily. The next day our guide led us to the

n

TJtirty Tears

I h

Pembina River, which comes from the southward,
where we found traces of Indians, who appeared to
have quitted this station the day before ; we had,
therefore, the benefit of a good track, which our dogs
much required, as they were greatly fatigued, by hav-
ing dragged their loads through very deep snow for
the last two days. A moose deer crossed the river
just before the party : this animal is plentiful in the
vicinity. We encamped in a pleasant, well sheltered
place, having traveled fourteen miles.

We had made but a short distance the following
morning, when we came to some Indian lodges, which
belonged to an old Chipewyan chief, named the Sun,
and his family, consisting of five hunters, their wives,
and children. They were delighted to see us, and
when the object of our expedition had been explained
to them, expressed themselves much interested in our
progress ; but they could give no particle of informa-
tion respecting the countries beyond the Athabasca
Lake. We smoked with them, and gave each person
a glass of mixed spirits and some tobacco. We learn-
ed from a Canadian servant of the North- West Com-
pany, who was residing with them, that this family
had lost numerous relatives, and that the destruction
of property, which had been made after their deaths,
was the only cause for the pitiable condition in which
we saw them. He said the whole were industrious

In the Arctic Regions,

79

IS,

hunters, and, therefore, were usually better provided
with clothes, and other useful articles, than most of
the Indians. We purchased from them a pair of
snow-shoes, in exchange for some ammunition. The
Chipewyans are celebrated for making them good and
easy to walk in ; we saw some here upwards of six
feet long, and three broad ; with these unwieldy clogs
an active hunter, in the spring, when there is a crust
on the surface of the snow, will run down a moose or
red deer.

We made very slow progress after leaving this party,
on account of the deep snow, but continued along the
river until we reached its junction with the Atha-
basca, or Elk River. Very little wood has been seen
during this day's march. The western shore, near the
Forks, is destitute of trees ; it is composed of lofty
perpendicular cliffs, which are now covered with snow.
The eastern shore supports a few pines.

March 18. — Soon after our departure from the en-
campment we met two men, from the establishment
at Pierre au Calumet, who gave us correct informa-
tion of the situation and distance. Having the bene-
fit of their track, we marched at a tolerably quick
pace, and made twenty-two miles in the course of the
day, though the weather was very disagreeable for
traveling, being stormy, with constant snow. We
kept along the river the whole time ; its breadth is

80

Thirty Years

about two miles. The islands appear better furnish-
ed with wood than its banks, the summits of which
are almost bare. Soon after we had encamped our
Indian guide rejoined us ; he had remained behind
yesterday, to accompany a friend on a hunting excur-
sion, without consulting us. On his return this even-
ing he made no endeavor to explain the reason of his
absence, but sat down coolly, and began to prepare his
supper.

Showers of snow fell until noon on the following
day, but we continued our journey along the river,
whose banks and islands became gradually lower as we
advanced, and less abundantly supplied with wood,
except willows. We came up with an old Canadian,
who was resting his wearied dogs during the heat of
the sun. He was carrying meat from some Indian
lodges to Fort Chipewyan, having a burden exceeding
two hundred and fifty pounds on his sledge, which
was dragged by two miserable dogs. He came up to
our encampment after dark. We were much amused
by the altercation that took place between him and our
Canadian companions as to the qualifications of their
respective dogs. This, however, is such a general topic
of conversation among the voyagers in the encampment,
that we should not probably have remarked it, had
not the old man frequently offered to bet the whole of
his wages that his two dogs, poor and lean as they

In the Arctic Regions.

81

were, would drag their load to the Athabasca Lake in
less time than any three of theirs could. Having ex-
pressed our surprise at his apparent temerity, he coolly
said the men from the lower countries did not under-
stand the management of their dogs, and that he de-
pended on his superior skill in driving ; and we soon
gathered from his remarks, that the voyagers of the
Athabasca department consider themselves as very su-
perior to any other. The only reasons which he could
assign were, that they had borne their burdens across
the terrible Methye Portage, and that they were ac-
customed to live harder and more precariously.

March 25. — Having now the guidance of an old Ca-
nadian, we sent forward the Indian, and one of our
men, with letters to the gentleman at the Athabasca
Lake. The rest of the party set off afterwards, and
kept along the river until ten, when we branched off
by portages into the Embarrass River, the usual chan-
nel of communication in canoes with the lake. It is
a narrow and serpentine stream, confined between al-
luvial banks which support pines, poplars, and willows.
We had not advanced far before we came up with the
two men despatched by us this morning. The stormy
weather had compelled them to encamp, as there was
too much drifting of the snow for any attempt being
made to cross the lake. We were obliged, though
most reluctantly, to follow their example ; but we com-

4»

82

Thirty Years

forted ourselves with the reflection that this was the
first time we had been stopped by the weather during
our long journey, which was so near at an end. The
gale afterwards increased, the squalls at night became
very violent, disburthened the trees of the snow, and
gave us the benefit of a continual fall of patches from
them, in addition to the constant shower. We there-
fore quickly despatched our suppers, and retired under
the shelter of our blankets.

March 26. — The boisterous weather continued
through the night, and it was not before six this morn-
ing^ that the wind became apparently moderate, and the
snow ceased. Two of the Canadians were immediately
sent off with letters to the gentlemen at Fort Chipew-
yan. After breakfast we also started, but our Indian
friend, having a great indisposition to move in such
weather, remained by the fire. We soon quitted the
river, and after crossing a portage, a small lake, and a
point of land, came to the borders of the Mam-ma-
wee Lake. We then found our error as to the strength
of the wind ; and that the gale still blew violently,
and there was so much drifting of the snow as to
cover the distant objects by which our course could be
directed. We fortunately got a glimpse through this
cloud of a cluster of islands in the direction of the
houses, and decided on walking towards them ; but in
doing this we suffered very much from the cold, and

:^ In the Arctic Eegiona.

;-

were obliged to halt under the shelter of them, and
await the arrival of our Indian guide. He conducted
us between these islands, over a small lake, and by a
swampy river, into the Athabasca Lake, from whence
the establishments were visible. At four p. M. we had
the pleasure of arriving at Fort Chipewyan, and of
being received by Messrs. Keith and Black, the part-
ners of the North-West Company in charge, in the
most kind and hospitable manner. Thus has termina-
ted a winter's journey of eight hundred and fifty-seven
miles, in the progress of which there has been a great
intermixture of agreeable and disagreeable circum-
stances. Could the amount of each be ballanced, I
suspect the latter would much preponderate ; and
amongst these the initiation into the practice of walk-
ing in snow-shoes must be considered as prominent.
The suffering it occasions can be but faintly imagined
by a person who thinks upon the inconvenience of
marching with a weight of between two and three
pounds constantly attached to galled feet, and swelled
ankles. Perseverance and practice only will enable
the novice to surmount this pain.

The next evil is the being constantly exposed to
witness the wanton and unnecessary cruelty of the
men to their doga, especially those of the Canadians,
who beat them unmercifully, and habitually vent on
them the most dreadful and disgustirg imprecations.

s

84

Thirty Years

There are other inconveniences which, though keenly
felt during the day's journey, are speedily forgotten,
when stretched out in the encampment before a large
fire, you enjoy the social mirth of your companions,
who usually pass the evening in recounting their for-
mer feats in traveling. At this time the Canadians
are always cheerful and merry, and the only bar to
their comfort arises from the frequent interruption oc-
casioned by the dogs, who are constantly prowling
about the circle, ai^d snatching at every kind of food
that happens to be within their reach. These useful
animals are a comfort to them afterwards, by the
warmth they impart when lying down by their side or
feet, as they usually do. But the greatest gratifica-
.tions a traveler in these regions enjoys, are derived
from the hospitable welcome ho receives at every
trading post, however poor the means of the host may
be ; and from being disrobed even for a short time of
the trappings of a voyager, and experiencing the plea-
sures of cleanliness.

The following are the estimated distances, in stat-
ute miles, which Mr. Back and I have traveled since
our departure from Cumberland ;

From Cumberland House to Carlton IIousu .... 268

From Cnrlton to Isle a la Crosse 280

From Isle a la Crosse to North side of the Methyo Poitago 124

From the Methye Portage to Fort Chipewyan - - - 240

867 Miles.

In the Arctic Regions.

85

CHAPTER IV.

it-

les,

M^JSaa. On the day of our arrival at Fort Chipe-
wyan we called upon Mr. MacDonald, the gentleman
in charge of the Hudson's Bay Establishment, called
Fort Wedderbume, and delivered to him Governor
Williams's circular letter, which desired that every as-
sistance should be given to further our progress, and a
statement of the requisitions which we should have to
make on his post.

Our first object was to obtain some certain informa-
tion respecting our future route ; and accordingly we
received from one of the North- West Company's in-
terpreters, named Beaulieu, a half-breed, who had
been brought up amongst the Dog-ribbed and Copper
Indians, some satisfactory information, which we after-
wards found tolerably correct, respecting the mode of
reaching the Copper-mine lliver, which he had de-
scended a considerable way, as well as of the course of
that river to its mouth. The Copper Indians, how-
ever, he said, would bo able to give us more accurate

86

Thirty Tears

information as to the ^^tter part of its course^ as they
occasionally pursue it on the sea. He sketched on the
floor a representation of the river, and a line of coast
accordins: to his idea of it. Just as he had finished,
an old Chipewyan Indian, named Black Meat, unex-
pectedly came in, and instantly recognized the plan.
He then took the charcoal from Beaulieu, and inserted
a track along the sea-coast, which he had followed in
returning from a war excursion, made by his tribe
against the Esquimaux. He detailed several particu-
lars of the coast and the sea, which he represented as
studded with well-wooded islands, and free from ice,
close to the shore, but not to a great distance, in the
month of July. He described two other rivers to the
eastward of Copper-mine River, which also fall into
the Northern Ocean. The Anatessy, which issues from
the Contway-to or Rum Lake, and the Thloueea-tessy
or Fish River, which rises near the eastern boundary
of the Great Slave Lake ; but he represented them
both as being shallow, and too much interrupted by
barriers for being navigated in any other than small
Indian canoes.

Having received this satisfactory intelligence, I
wrote immediately to Mr. Smith, of the North- West
Company, and Mr. M'Vicar, of the Hudson's Bay
Company, the gentlemen in charge of the posts at the
Great Silver Lake, to communicate the object of the

In the Arctic Begtons.

87

ExpeditioD, and our proposed route ; and to solicit
any information they possessed, or could collect, from
the Indians, relative to the countries we had to pass
through, and the best manner of proceeding. As the
Copper Indians frequent the establishment on the
north side of the lake, I particularly requested them
to explain to that tribe the object of our visit, and
to endeavor to procure from them some guides and
hunters to accompany our party. Two Canadiani
were sent by Mr. Keith with these letters.

The month of April commenced with fine and clear
but extremely cold weather ; unfortunately we wei9
still without a thermometer, and could not ascertain
the degrees of temperature. The coruscations of the
Aurora were very brilliant almost every evening of the
first week, and were generally of the most variable
kind. On the 3d, they were particularly changeable.
The first appearance exhibited three illuminated beams
issuing from the horiz(ja in the north, east, and west
points, and directed towards the zenith ; in a few
seconds these disappeared, and a complete circle was
displayed, bounding the horizon at an elevation of
fifteen degrees. There was a quick lateral motion in
the atten|iated beams of which this zone was compos-
ed. Its color was a pale yellow, with an occasional
tinge of red.

On the 8th of April the Indians saw some geese in

88

Thirty Years

the vicinity of this lake, but none of the migratory
birds appeared near to the houses before the 15th, when
some swans flew over. These are generally the first
that arrive ; the weather had been very stormy for the
four preceding days, and this in all probability kept
the birds from venturing farther north than where the
Indians had first seen them.

In the middle of the month the snow began to waste
daily, and by degrees it disappeared from the hills and
the surface of the lake. On the 17th and 19th the
Aurora appeared very brilliant in patches of light,
bearing N.W. An old Cree Indian having found a
beaver lodge near to the fort, Mr. Keith, Back, and I,
accompanied him to see the method of breaking into
it, and their mode of taking those interesting ani-
mals. The lodge was constructed on the side of a
rock in a small lake, having the entrance inta it be-
neath* the ice. The frames were formed of layers of
sticks, the interstices being filled with wood, and the
outsiuo vfas plastered with earth and stones, which
the frost had so completely consolidated, that to break
through required great labor, with the aid of the ice
chisel, and the other iron instruments which the bea-
ver hunters use. The chase, however, w(\s unsuc-
cessful, as the beaver had previously evacuated the
lodge.

The firHt geese we observed flying near to the fort

In the Arctic Regions.

89

were seen on the 2l8t, and some were brought to the
house on the 30th, but they were very lean ; on the
25th flies were seen sporting in the sun, and on the
26th the ice on the lake, near the channel of the river,
was overflowed, in consequence of the Athabasca river
having broken up ; but except where this water spread,
there was no appearance of decay in the ice.

May. — During the first part of this month, the wind
blew from the N.W., and the sky was cloudy. It
generally thawed during the day, but froze through
the night. On the 2d the Aurora faintly gleamed
through very dense clouds.

We had a long conversation with Mr. Dease of the
North- West Company, who had recently arrived from
his station at the bottom of the Athabasca Lake.
This gentleman, having passed several winters on the
Mackenzie's Eiver, and at the posts to the northward
of Slave Lake, possessed considerable information res-
pecting the Indians, and those parts of the country
to which our inquiries were directed, which he very
promptly and kindly communicated. During our con-
versation, an old Chipewyan Indian, named the Bab-
bit's Head, entered the room, to whom Mr. Dease re-
ferred for information on some point. We found from
his answer that he was a step son of the late Chief
Matonnabee, who had accompanied Mr. Ilearne on his
journey to the sea, and that he had himself been of

90

Thirty Years

•

the party, but being then a mere boy, he had forgot-
ten many of the circumstances. He confirms, how-
ever, the leading incidents related by Hearne, and was
positive he reached the sea, though he admitted that
none of the party had tasted the water. He repre-
sented himself to be the only survivor of that party.
As he was esteemed a good Indian, I presented him
with a medal, which he received gratefully, and con-
cluded a long speech upon the occasion, by assuring
me he should preserve it carefully all his life.

On the 10th of May we were gratified by the ap-
pearance of spring, though the ice remained firm on
the lake. The anemone (pulsatilla, pasque flower,)
appeared this day in flower, the trees began to put
forth their leaves, and the musquitoes visited the warm
rooms. On the 17th and 18th there were frequent
ehowers of rain, and much thunder and lightning.
This moist weather caused the ice to waste so rapidly,
^hat by the 24th it had entirely disappeared from the
lake. The gentlemen belonging to both the Compa-
nies quickly arrived from the different posts in this
department, bringing their winter's collection of furs,
which are forwarded from these establishments to the
depots.

July 2. — The canoe, which was ordered to be built
for our use, was finished, as it was constructed after
the manner, which has been accurately described by

|V,--i!:r2=r:

In the Arctic Regions.

91

tning.

Heame, and several of the American travelers, a detail
of the process will be unnecessary. Its extreme
length was thirty- two feet six inches, including the
bow and stem pieces ; its greatest breadth was four
feet ten inches, but it was only two feet nine inches
forward where the bowman sat, and two feet four inches
behind where the steersman was placed ; and its depth
was one foot eleven and a quarter inches. There were
seventy-three hoops of thin cedar, and a layer of slen-
der laths of the same wood within the frame. These
feeble vessels of bark will carry twenty-five pieces of
gooda, each weighing ninety pounds, exclusive of the
necessary provision and baggage for the crew of fivo
or six men, amounting in the whole to about three
thousand three hundred pounds' weight. This great
lading they annually carry between the depfitsand the
posts, in the interior ; and it rarely happens that any
accidents occur, if they are managed by experienced
bowmen and steersmen, on whose skill the safety of
the canoe entirely depends in the rapids and difficult
places. When a total portage is made, these two men
carry the canoe, and they often run with it, though its
weight id estimated at about three hundred pounds,
exclusive of the poles and oars, which are occasionally
left in where the distance is short.

July 13. — This morning Mr. Back and I had the
sincere gratification ot trelcoming our Icmg separated

92

TJiirty Tears

friends, Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood, who arrived in
perfect health with two canoes, having made a very
expeditious journey from Cumberland, notwithstand-
ing they were detained near three days in consequence
of the melancholy loss of one of their bowmen, by
the upsetting of a canoe in a strong rapid ; but, as
the occurrences of this journey, together with the
mention of some other circumstances that happened
previous to their departure from Cumberland, which
have been extracted from Mr. Hood's narrative, will
appear in the following chapter, it will be unnecessa-
ry to enter farther into these points now.

The zeal and talent displayed by Dr. Richardson
and Mr. Hood in the discharge of their several duties,
since my separation from them, drew forth my highest
approbation. These gentlemen had brought all the
stores they could procure from the establishments at
Cumberland and at Isle & la Crosse ; and at the latter
place they had received ten bags of pemmican from
the North- West Company, whic". proved to be mouldy
and so totally unfit for use that it was left at the Me-
thye portage. They got none from the Hudson's Bay
post. The voyagers belonging to that Company,
being destitute of provisions, had eate.n what was in-
tended for us. In consequence of these untoward
circumstances, the canoes arrived with only one's day
supply of this most essentiar article.^ The prospect

BBM

mm

In the Arctic Regions.

93

of having to commence our journey from hence, almost
destitute of provision, and scantily supplied with
stores, was distressing to us, and very discouraging to
the men. It was evident, however, that any unneces-
sary delay here would have been very imprudent, as
Fort Chipewyan did not, at the present time, furnish
the means of subsistence for so large a party, much
less was there a prospect of our receiving any supply
to carry with us. We, therefore, hastened to make
the necessary arrangements for our speedy departure.
All the stores were demanded that could possibly bo
spared from both the establishments ; and we rejoiced
to find, that when this collection was added to the ar-
ticles that had been brought up by the canoes, that
we had a sufficient quantity of clothing for the equip-
ment of the men who had been engaged here, as well
as to furnish a present to the Indians, besides some
few goods for the winter's consumption ; but we could
not procure any ammunition, which was the most es-
sential article, or spirits, and but little tobacco.

We then made a final arrangement respecting the
voyagers, who were to accompany the party ; and for-
tunately, there was no difficulty in doing this, as Dr.
Richardson and Mr. Hood had taken the very judicious
precaution of bringing up ten men from Cumberland,
who were engaged to proceed forward if their services
were required. The Canadians, whom they brought,

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94

Thirty Years

were most desirous of being continued, and we felt sin-
cere pleasure in being able to keep men who were so
zealous in the cause, and who had given proofs of their
activity on their recent passage to this place, by dis-
charging those men who were less willing to undertake
the journey ; of these three were Englishman, one
American, and three Canadians. When the numbers
were completed, which we had been recommended by
the traders to take as a protection against the Esqui-
maux, we had sixteen Canadian-voyagers, and our
worthy and only English attendant John Hepburn,
besides the two interpreters whom we were to receive
at the Great Slave Lake ; we were also accompanied
by a Chipewyan woman. An equipment of goods
was given to each of the men who had been engaged
at this place, similar to what had been furnished to the
others at Cumberland ; and when this distribution
had been made, the remainder were made up into
bales, preparatory to our departure on the following
day. We were cheerfully assisted in these and all our
occupations by Mr. Smith, who evinced an anxious
desire to supply our warns as flxr as his means per-
mitted.

^

mm

tmm

In the Arctic Rigions.

95

CHAPTEK V.

:^'-S*--

^

*■•

juiy^'s. Early this morning the stores were distributed
to the three canoes. Our stock of provision unfortu-
nately did not amount to more than suflficient for one
day's consumption, exclusive of two barrels of flour,
three cases of preserved meats, some chocolate, arrow-
root, and portable soup, which we had brought from
England, and intended to reserve for our journey to
the coast next season. Seventy pounds of moose meat
and a little barley were all that Mr. Smith was ena-
>bled to give us. It was gratifying, however, to per-
' ceive that this scarcity of food did not depress the
spirits of our Canadian companions, who cheerfully

. loaded their canoes, and embarked in high glee after
. they had received the customary dram. At noon we
bade farewell to our kind friend Mr. Smith. The
crews commenced a lively paddling song on quitting
the shore, which was continued until we had lost
sight of the houses. We soon reached the wastern

> V boundary of the lake, and at two entered the Stoney
Kiver, one of the discharges of the Athabasca Lake,

wnB ii. 'Ill* •^^•j'. m*

96

Thirty Years

into the Slave River, and having a favoring current
passed swiftly along. This narrow stream is confined
between low swampy banks, which support willows,
dwarf birch, and alder. At five we passed its conflux
with Peace River. The Slave River, formed by the
union of these streams, is about three-quarters of a
mile wide. We descended this magnificent river with
much rapidity, and after passing through several nar-
row channels, formed by an assemblage of islands,
crossed a spot where the waters had a violent whirl-
ing motion, which, when the river is low, is said to
subside into a dangerous rapid ; on the present occa-
sion, no other inconvenience was felt than the inabili-
ty of steering the canoes, which were whirled about in
every direction by the eddies, until the current carried
them beyond their influence. We encamped at seven,
on the swampy bank of the river, but had scarcely
pitched the tents before we were visited by a terrible
thunder-storm ; the rain fell in torrents, and the vio-
lence of the wind caused the river to overflow its
banks, so that we were completely flooded. Swarms
of musquitoes succeeded the storm, and their torment-
ing stings, superadded to other inconveniences, induced
us to embark, and, after taking a hasty supper, to
pursue our voyage down the stream during the night.
At six on the following morning we passed the
Reindeer Islands, and at ten reached the entrance of

In the Arctic Regions.

97

the Dog Kiver, where we halted to set the fishing nets.
These were examined in the evening, but to our mor-
tification we obtained only four small trout, and were
compelled to issue part of our preserved meats for sup-
per. The latitude of the mouth of Dog Eiver, was
observed 59° 52' 16" N.

The nets were taken up at daylight, but they fur-
nished only a solitary pike. We lost no time in em-
barking, and crossed the crooked channel of the Dog
Kapid, when two of the canoes came in such violent
contact with each other, that the sternmost had its
bow broken off". We were fortunately near to the
shore, or the disabled canoe would have sunk. The
injury being repaired in two hours, we again embarked,
and having descended another rapid, arrived at the
Cassette Portage of four hundred and sixty paces, over
which the cargoes and canoes were carried in about
twenty-six minutes. We next passed through a nar-
row channel full of rapids, crossed the Portajge d'Em-
barras of seventy yards ; and the portage of the Little
Bock, of three hundred yards, at which another acci-
dent happened to one of the canoes, by the bowman
slipping and letting it fall upon a rock, and breaking
it in two. Two hours were occupied in sewing the de-
tached pieces together, and covering the seam with
pitch ; but this being done, it was as effective as be-
fore. After leaving this place we soon came to the

5

98

Thirty Years

next portage, of two hundred and seventy-three paces ;
and shortly afterwards to the Mountain Portage, of one
hundred and twenty : which is appropriately named,
as the path leads over the summit of a high hill.
This elevated situation commands a very grand and
picturesque view, for some miles along the river, which
at this part is ahout a mile wide.

We next crossed a portage of one hundred and
twenty yards ; and then the Pelican portage of eight
hundred paces. Mr. Back took an accurate sketch of
the interesting scenery which the river presents at this
place. After descending six miles further we came to
the last portage on the route to Slave Lake, which we
crossed, and encamped at its lower end. It is called
'* The Portage of the Drotoned" and it received that
name from a melancholy accident which took place
many years ago. Two canoes arrived at the upper
end of the portage, in one of which there was an ex-
perienced guide. This man, judging from the height
of the river, deemed it practicable to shoot the rapid,
and determined upon trying it. He accordingly -^^
placed himself in the bow of his canoe, having pre-
viously agreed, that if the passage was found easy, he
should, on reaching the bottom of the rapid, fire a
musket, as a signal for the other canoe to follow.
The rapid proved dangerous, and called forth all the
skill of the guide, and the utmost exertion of his

W' '

In the Arctic Regions.

99

crew, and they narrowly escaped destruction. Just
as they were landing, an unfortunate fellow, seizing
the loaded fowling-piece, fired at a duck which rose
at the instant. The guide anticipating the conse-
quences, ran with the utmost haste to the other end
of the portage, but he was too late : the other canoe
had pushed off, and he arrived only to witness the
fate of his comrades. They got alarmed in the mid-
dle of the rapid, the canoe was upset, and every man
perished.

The various rapids we have passed to-day, are pro-
duced by an assemblage of islands and rocky ledges,
which obstruct the river, and divide it into many nar-
row channels. Two of these channels are rendered
still more difficult by accumulations of drift timber ;
a circumstance which has given a name to one of the
portages. The rocks which form the bed of the river,
and the numerous islands, belong to the granite
formation. The distance made to-day was thirteen
miles.^ ^ ^ ^

July 21. — We embarked at four A.M., and pursued
our course down the river. The rocks cease at the
last portage ; and below it the banks are composed of
alluvial soil, which is held together by the roots of
the trees and shrubs that crown their summits. The
river is about a mile wide, and the current is greatly
diminished. At eight we landed at the mouth of the

100

Thh . I Years

Salt Kiver, and pitched our tents, intending to remain
here this and the next day for the purpose of fishing.
After breakfast, which made another inroad on our
preserved meats, we proceeded up the river in a light
canoe, to visit the salt springs, leaving a party behind
to attend the nets. This river is about one hundred
yards wide at its mouth. Its waters did not become
brackish until we had ascended it seven or eight
miles ; but when we had passed several rivulets of
fresh water which flowed in, the main stream became
very salt, at the same time contracting to the width
of fifteen or twenty yards. At a distance of twenty-
two miles, including the wiLdings of the river, the
plains commence. Having pitched the tent at this
spot, we set out to visit the principal springs, and
walked about three miles when the musquitoes com-
pelled us to give up our project. We did not see the
termination of the plains towards the east, but on the
north and west they are bounded by an even ridge,
about six or seven hundred feet in height. Several
salt springs issue from the foot of this ridge, and
spread their waters over the plain, which consists of
tenacious clay. During the summer much evapora-
tion takes place, and large heaps of salt are left
behind crystalized in the form of cubes. Some beds
of greyish compact gypsum were exposed on the sides
of the hills.

^■*'-

In tilt Arctic Begiona.

101

The next morning after filling some casks with salt
for our use during winter, we embarked to return, and
had descended the rrver a few miles, when turning
round a point, we perceived a buffalo plunge into the
river before us. Eager to secure so valuable a prize,
we instantly opened a fire upon him from four muskets,
and in a few minutes he fell, but not before he had
received fourteen balls. The carcass was towed to the
bank, and the canoe speedily laden with meat. After
this piece of good fortune, we descended the stream
merrily, our voyagers chanting their liveliest songs.
On arrival at the mouth of the river, we found that
our nets had not produced more than enough to sup-
ply a scanty meal to the men whom we had left
behind, but this was now of little importance as the
acquisition of meat we had made, would enable us to
proceed without more delay to Slave Lake. In the
evening, a violent thunder-storm came on with heavy
rain ; thermometer 70°.

At a very early hour on the following morning, we
embarked, and continued to paddle against a very
strong wind and high waves, under the shelter of the
bank of the rivers, until two P. M., when having
arrived at a more exposed part of the stream, the
canoes took in so much water that we were obliged to
disembark on a small island. The river here is from
one mile and a quarter to one mile and three-quarters

102

Thirty Years

wide. Its banks are of moderate height, sandy, and
well wooded.

July 24. — We made more progress notwithstanding
the continuance of the wind. The course of the river
is very winding, making in one place a circuit of seven
or eight miles round a peninsula, which is joined to
the west bank by a narrow isthmus. Near the foot
of this elbow, a long island occupies the centre of the
river, which it divides into two channels.

Soon after landing, I visited the Hudson's Bay post
on the same island, and engaged Pierre St. German,
an interpreter for the Copper Indians. We regretted
to find the posts of both the Companies extremely
bare of provision ; but as the gentleman in charge had
despatched men on the preceding evening, to a band
of Indians, in search of meat, and they promised to
furnish us with whatever should be brought, it was
deemed advisable to wait for their return, as the small-
est supply was now of importance to us. Advantage
was taken of the delay to repair effectually the canoe,
which had been broken in the Dog Eapid. On the nex t
evening, the men arrived with the meat, and enabled
Mr. M'Cleod, of the North- West Company, to furnish
us with four hundred pounds of dried provisions. Mr.
M'Vicar, of the Hudson's Bay Company, also supplied
one hundred and fifty pounds. This quantity we con-
sidered would be sufficient, until we could join the hun-

Tn the Arctic Regions,

103

ters. We also obtained three fishing nets, a gun, and
a pair of pistols, which were all the stores these posts
could furnish, although the gentlemen in charge were
much disposed to assist us.

On the 27th of July we embarked at foar A. M.,
and proceeded along the south shore of the lake,
through a narrow channel, formed by some islands,
beyond the confluence of the principal branch of the
Slave River ; and as far as Stoney Island, where we
breakfasted. This island is merely a rock of gneiss,
that rises forty or fifty feet above the lake, and is pre-
cipitous on the north side. As the day was fine, and
the lake smooth, we ventured upon paddling across to
the Reindeer Islands, which were distant about thir-
teen miles in a northern direction, instead of pursuing
the usual track by keeping further along the south
shore, which inclines to the eastward from this point.
These islands are numerous, and consist of granite,
rising from one hundred to two hundred feet above the
water. They are for the most part naked ; but to-
wards the centres of the larger ones, there is a little
soil, and a few groves of pines. At seven in the
evening we landed upon one of them, and encamped.
On the following morning we ran before a strong breeze
and a heavy swell, for some hours, but at length were
obliged to seek shelter on a large island adjoining to
Isle d la Cache of Mackenzie.

104

Tliirty Years

*

A

The wind and swell having subsided in the after-
noon, we re-embarked, and steered towards the western
point of the Big Island of Mackenzie, and when four
miles distant from it, had forty- two fathoms soundings.
Passing between this island and a promontory of the
main shore, termed Big Cape, we entered into a deep
bay, which receives the waters from several rivers that
come from the northward ; and we immediately per-
ceived a decrease in the temperature of the water,
from 59^ to 48*^. We coasted along the eastern side
of the day, its western shore being always visible, but
the canoes were exposed to the hazard of being broken
by the numerous sudden rocks, which were scattered
^ in our track. We encamped for the night on a rocky
island, and by eight A. M. on the following morning,
arrived at jB'ort Providence, which is situated twenty-
one miles from the entrance of the bay. The post is
exclusively occupied by the North- West Company,
the Hudson's Bay Company having no settlement to

the northward of Great Slave Lake. We found Mr.

•

Wentzel and our interpreter Jean Baptiste Adam
here, with one of the Indian guides : but the chief of
the tribe and his hunters were encamped with their
families, some miles from the fort, in a good situation
for fishing. Our arrival was announced to him by a
fire on the top of a hill, and before night a messenger
came to communicate his intention of seeing us next

'^■'

'^m-

In tho Arctic Regions.

105

morning. The customary present, of tobacco and
some other articles, was immediately sent to him.

Mr. Wentzel prepared me for the first conference
with the Indians, by mentioning all the information
they had already given to him. The duties allotted
to this gentleman were, the management of the In-
dians, the superintendence of the Canadian voyagers,
the obtaining, and the general distribution, of the
provision, and the issue of the other stores. These
services he was well qualified to perform, having been
accustomed to execute similar duties, during a resi-
dence of upwards of twenty years in this country. We
also deemed Mr. Wentzel to be a great acquisition to
our party, as a check upon the interpreters,' he being
one of the few traders who speak the Chipewyan
language.

As we were informed that external appearances
made lasting impressions upon the Indians, we pre-
pared for the interview by decorating ourselves in uni-
form, and suspending a medal round each of our necks.
Our tents had been previously pitched, and over one
of them a silken union flag was hoisted. Soon after
noon, on July 30th, several Indian canoes were seen
advancing in a regular line, and on their approach,
the chief was discovered in the headmost, which was
paddled by two men. On landing at the fort, the

chief assumed a very grave aspect, and walked up to

5»

106

Thirty Years

Mi. Wontzcl with n nioasurod and dignified stop,
loolcing neither to tlio right nor to the loft, at the per-
Bons who hud iv88onibU>d on the beach to witness his
debarkation, but preserving the same immovability
of countonancG until ho reached the hall, and was in-
troduced to the ofllcers. When ho had smoked his
pipe, drank a small portion of spirits and water him-
Belf, and issued a glass to each of liis companions, who
had seated themselves on the floor, ho commenced his
harangue, by mentioning the circumstances that led
to his agreeing to accompany the expedition, an en-
gagement which ho was quite prepared to fulfil. Ha
was rejoiced, ho said, to see such great chiefs on his
'lands, his tribe were poor, but they loved white men
who had been their benefactors ; and ho hoped that
our visit would be productive of much good to them.
The rt^port which preceded our arrival, ho said, had
caused much grief to him. It was at first rumored
that a great medicine chief accompanied us, who was
able to restore the dead to life ; at this he rejoiced,
the prospect of again seeing his departed relatives had
enlivened his spirits, but his first communication with
Mr. Wentzel had removed these vain hopes, and ho
felt as if his friends had a second time been torn from
him. He now wished to be informed exactly of the
nature of our expedition.
In reply to this si)eech, which I understood had

In the Arctic Regions,

107

boon prepared for many days, I endeavored to explain
the objects of our niisHion in a manner best calculated
to ensure his exertions in our service. With this view,
I told him that wo were sent out by the greatest chief
in the world, who was the sovereign also of the trad-
ing compiinies in the gauntry ; that he was the friend
of poac<?, and had the interest of every nation at heart.
Having learned that his children in the north, were
much in want of articles of merchandize, in conse-
quence of the extreme length and difficulty of tho
present route ; he had sent us to search for a passage
by the sea, which, if found, would enable large vessels
to transport great quantities of goods more easily to
their lands. That we had not come for the purpose of
traffic, but solely to make discoveries for their benefit,
as well as that of every other people. That we had
been directed to inquire into the nature of all the pro-
ductions of the countries we might pass through, and
particularly respecting their inhabitants. That wo
desired the assistance of tho Indians in guiding us,
and providing us with food j finally, that we were
most positively enjoined by the great chief to recom-
mend that hostilities should cease throughout this
country ; and especially between the Indians and Es-
quimaux, whom he considered his children, in com-
mon with other natives ; and by way of enforcing
the latter point more strongly, I assured him that a

108

Tliirty Years

forfeiture of all the advantages which might be anti-
cipated from the expedition would be a certain conse-
quence, if any quarrel arose between his party and the
Esouimaux. I also communicated to him that owinjc
to the distance we had traveled, we had now few more
stores than were necessary for the use of our own
party, a part of these, however, should be forthwith
presented to him ; on his return, he and his party
should be remunerated with cloth, ammunition, to-
bacco, and some useful iron materials, besides having
their debts to the North- West Company discharged.

The chief, whose name is Akaitcho or Big-foot,
replied by a renewal of his assurances, that he and his
' party would attend us to the end of our journey, and
that they would do their utmost to provide us with
the means of subsistence. He admitted that his tribe
made war upon the Esquimaux, but said they were
now desirous of peace, and unanimous in their opinion
as to the necessity of all who accompanied us abstain-
ing from every \ict of enmity against that nation.
He added, however, that the Esquimaux were very
treacherous, and therefore recommended that we should
advance towards them with caution.

The communication which the chief and the guides
then gave respecting the route to the Copper-Mine
River, and its course to the sea, coiiyided in every
liiaterial point with the statements which were made

mmm

In the Arctic Regions.

109

■'^•-

by Boileau and Black-meat at Chipewyan, but they
differed in the descriptions of the coast. The infor-
mation, however, collected from both sources was very
vague and unsatisfactory. None of his tribe had been
more than three days' march along the sea-coast to
the eastward of the river's mouth.

As the water was unusually high this season, the
Indian guides recommended our going by a shorter
route to the Copper-Mine River than that they had
first proposed to Mr. Wentzel, and they assigned as a
reason for the change, that the rein-drer would be
sooner found upon this tract. They then drew a chart
' of the proposed route on the floor with charcoal, ex-
hibiting a chain of twenty-five small lakes extending
towards the north, about one-half of them connected
by a river which flows into Slave Lake, near Fort
Providence. One of the guides, named Keskarrah,
drew the Copper-Mine River, running through the
Upper Lake in a westerly direction towards the Great
Bear Lake, and then northerly to the sea. The other
guide drew the river in a straight line to the sea from
the above mentioned place, but after some dispute,
admitted the correctness of the first delineation. The
latter was elder brother to Akaitcho, and he said that
he had accompanied Mr. Hearne on his journey, and
though very young at the time, still remembered
laany of the circumstances, and particularly the mas-

(-■.

110

Thirty Years

sacre committed by the Indians on the Esquimaux.
They pointed out another lake to the southward of
the river, about three days' journey distant from it,
on which the chief proposed the next winter's estab-
lishment should be formed, as the rein-deer would pass
there in the autumn and spring. Its waters con-
tained fish, and there was a sufficiency of wood for
building as . well as for the winter's consumption.
These were important considerations, and detemiined „
me in pursuing the route they now proposed. They .
could not inform us what time we should take in
reaching the lake, until they saw our manner ot
traveling in the large canoes, but they supposed we
might be about twenty days, in which case I enter-
tained the hope that if we could then procure pro-
vision we should have time to descend the Copper-
Mine Biver for a considerable^ distance, if not to the
sea itself, and return to the lake before the winter
set in.

It may here be proper to mention that it had been
my original plan to descend the Mackenzie's Eiver,
and to cross the Great Bear Lake, from the eastern
side of which, Boileau informed me, there is a com-
munication with the Copper-Mine Biver by four small
lakes and portages ; but, under our present circum-
stances, this course could not be follo)^ed, because it
would remove us too far from the establishments, at

■PH

In the Artie Regions.

Ill

:

the Great Slave Lake, to receive the supplies of
ammunition and some other stores in the winter which
were absolutely necessary for the prosecution of our
journey, or to get the Esquimaux interpreter, whom
we expected. If I had not deemed these circumstances*
paramount I should have preferred the route by Bear
Lake.

Akaitcho and the guides having communicated all
the information they possessed on the different points
to which our questions had been directed, I placed my
medal round the neck of the chief, and the officers
presented theirs to an elder brother of his and the two
guides, communicating to them that these marks of
distinction were given as tokens of our friendship and
as pledges of the sincerity of our professions. Being
conferred in the presence of all the hunters, their ao*
quisition was highly gratifying to them, but they stu-
diously avoided any great expression of joy, because
such an exposure would have been unbecoming the
dignity which the senior ludians assume during a con-
ference. They assured us, however, of their being
duly sensible of these tokens of our regard, and that
they should be preserved during their lives with the
utmost care. The chief evinced much penetration and
intelligence during the whole of this conversation,
^ which gave us a favorable opinion of his intellectual
powers. He made many inquiries respecting the

112

Thirty Years

Discovery ships, under the command of Captain Parry,
which had been mentioned to him, and asked why a
passage had not been discovered long ago, if one exist-
ed. It may be stated that we gave a faithful explana-
tion to all his inquiries, which policy would have
prompted us to do if a love of truth had not ; for
whenever these northern nations detect a falsehood in
the dealings of the traders, they make it an unceasing
subject of reproach, and their confidence is irrecovera-
bly lost.

We presented to the chief, the two guides, and the
seven hunters, who had engaged to accompany us,
some cloth, blankets, tobacco, knives, daggers, besides
other useful iron materials, and a gun to each ; also a
keg of very weak spirits and water, which they kept
until the evening, as they had to try their guns before
dark, and make the necessary preparations for com-
mencing the journey on the following day. The In-
dians, however, did not leave us on the next day, as
the chief was desirous of being present, with his party,
at the dance, which was given in the evening to our
Canadian voyagers. They were highly entertained by
the vivacity and agility displayed by our companions
in their singing and dancing : and especially by their
imitating the gestures of a Canadian, who placed him-
self in the most ludicrous postures ; and, whenever
this was done, the gravity of the chief gave way to

In the Arctic Begiona,

113

Lm-

ver

to

violent bursts of laughter. In return for the gratifi-
cation Akaitcho had enjoyed, he desired his young men
to exhibit the Dog-Kib Indian dance ; and immediate-
ly they ranged themselves in a circle, and keeping their
legs widely separated, began to jump simultaneously
sideways ; their bodies were bent, their hands placed
on their hips, and they uttered forcibly the interjec-
tion tsa at each jump. Devoid as were their attitudes
of grace, and their music of harmony, we were much
amused by the novelty of the exhibition.

In the midst of this scene an untoward accident oc-
curred, which for a time interrupted our amusements.
The tent in which Dr. Richardson and I lodged hav-
ing caught fire from some embers that had been placed
in it to expel the musquitoes, was entirely burnt.
Hepburn, who was sleeping within it, close to some
powder, most providentially awoke in time to throw it
clear of the flame, and rescue the baggage, before any
material injury had been received. We dreaded the
consequences of this disaster upon the fickle minds of
the Indians, and wished it not to be communicated to
them. The chief, however, was soon informed of it
by one of his people, and expressed his desire that no
future misfortune should be concealed from him. We
found he was most concerned to hear that the flag had
been burnt, but we removed his anxiety on that point
by the assurance that it could easily be repaired. We

A

114

Tidrty Years

r s

were advised by Mr. Wentzel to recommence the
dancing after this event, lest the Indians should ima-
gine, by our putting a stop to it, that we considered
the circumstance as an unfavorable commencement of
our undertaking. We were, however, deeply impress-
ed with a grateful sense of the Divine Providence, in
averting the threatened destruction of our stores,
which would have been fatal to every prospect of pro-
ceeding forward this season.

August 1. — This morning the Indians set out, in-
tending to wait for us at the mouth of the Yellow-
Knife Kiver. We remained behind to pack our stores,
in bales of eighty pounds each, an operation which
could not be done in the presence of these Indians, as
they are in the habit of begging for every thing they
see. Our stores consisted of two barrels of gunpow-
der, one hundred and forty pounds of ball and small
shot, four fowling pieces, a few old trading guns, eight
pistols, twenty-four Indian daggers, some packages of
knives, chisels, axes, nails, and fastenings for a boat ;
a few yards of cloth, some blankets, needles, looking-
glasses, and beads ; together with nine fishing nets,
having meshes of different sizes. Our provision was
two casks of flour, two hundred dried reindeer tongues,
some dried moose meat, portable soup, and arrow-root,
sufficient in the whole for ten days* consumption, be-
sides two cases of chocolate, and two canisters of tea.

W

an<^
pel
of
ma

3St^

'V- -^i-

I'fiiiiiKii im ifi

In the Arctic Begiona,

115

We engaged another Canadian voyager at this place,
and the expedition then consisted of twenty-eight
persons, including the officers, and the wives of three
of the voyagers, who were brought for the purpose of
making shoes and clothes for the men at the winter
3stablishment ; thero were also three children, belong-
ing to two of these women.*

* The following is the list of the officers and men who composed the
sxpedition on its departure from Fort Providence :

John Franklin, Lieutenant of the Royal Navy and Commander.
John Richardson, M. D., Surgeon of the Royal Navy.
Mr. George Back, of the Royal Navy, Admiralty Midshipman.
Mr. Robert Hood, of the Royal Navy, Admiralty Midshipman.
Mr. Frederic Wentzel, Clerk to the North- West Company.
John Hepburn, English seaman.

Canadian Yotaoers.

John Peltier,

Mathew Pelonquin, dit Credit,

Solomon Belanger,

Joseph Bennoit,

Joseph Qagne,

Pierre Dumas,

Joseph Forcier,

Ignace Perrault,

Francais Samandre.

Gabriel Beauparlaut,

Vincenza Fontano,

Registe Vaillant,

Jean Baptiste Parent,

Jean Baptiste Belanger,

Jean Baptiste Belleau,

Emanuel Coumoyee,

Michel Teroahaute an Troqaois,

Pierre St. German,
Jean Baptiste Adam.

Interfretehs.

Cbipewyan Bois Brules,

116

Thirty Years

Our observations place Fort Providence in latitude
62° 17' 19" N., longitude 114° 9' 28" W. ; the vari-
ation of the compass is 33° 35' 55'^ E., and the dip
of the needle 86° 38' 02". It is distant from Moose-
Deer Island sixty-six geographic miles. This is the
last establishment of the traders in this direction^ but
the North- West Company have two to the northward
of it, on the Mackenzie River. It has been erected
for the convenience of the Copper and Dog-rib Indians,
who generally bring such a quantity of reindeer meat
that the residents are enabled, out of their superabun-
dance, to send annually some provision to the fort at
Moose-Deer Island. They also occasionally procure
moose and buffalo meat, but these animals are not nu-
merous on^his side of the lake. Few furs are collect-
ed. Les poissons inconnuSj trout, pike, carp, and
white fish, are very plentiful, and on these the resi-
dents principally subsist. Their great supply of fish
is procured in the latter part of September and the
beginning of October, but there are a few taken daily
in the nets during the winter. The surrounding coun-
try consists almost entirely of coarse grained granite,
freq^uently enclosing large masses of reddish felspar.
These rocks form hills which attain an elevation of
three hundred or four hundred feet, about a mile be-
hind the house ; their surface is generally naked, but
in the valleys between them a few spruces, aspens, and

}■

■

In the Arctic Regions.

117

birches grow, together with a variety of shrubs and
berry-bearing plants.

On the afternoon of the 2d of August we commen-
ced our journey, having, in addition to our three canoes,
a smaller one to convey the women ; we were all in
high spirits, being heartily glad that the time had at
length arrived when our course was to be directed to-
wards the Copper-Mine River, and through a line of
country which had not been previously visited by any
European. We proceeded to the northward, along the
eastern side of a deep bay of the lake, passing through
various channels, formed by an assemblage of rocky
islands ; and, at sunset, encamped on a projecting
point of the north main shore, eight miles from Fort
Providence. To the westward of this arm, or bay, of
the lake, there is another deep bay, that receives the
waters of a river, which communicates with great Mar-
ten Lake, where the North- West Company had once
a post established.

Aug. 3. — We embarked at three A. M. and proceed-
ed to the entrance of the Yellow-Knife River of the
traders, which is called by the Natives Beg-ho-lo-des-
sy ; or. River of the Toothless Fish. We found Akait-
cho, and the hunters with their families, encamped
here. There were also several other Indians of his
tribe, who intended to accompany us some distance
into the interior. This party was q^uickly in motion

i

118

Thirty Years

after our arrival, and we were soon surrounded by a
fleet of seventeen Indian canoes. In company with
them we paddled up the river, which is one hundred
and fifty yards wide, and, in an hour, came to a cas-
cade of five feet, where we were compelled to make a
portage of one hundred and fifty-eight yards. We
next crossed a dilatation of the river, about six miles
in length, upon which the name of Lake Prosperous
was bestowed. Its shores, though scantily supplied
with wood, are very picturesque.

Akaitcho caused himself to be paddled by his slave,
a young man, of the Dog-rib nation, whom he had
taken by force from his friends ; when he thought him-
self, however, out of reach of our observation, he laid
aside a good deal of his state, and assisted in the la-
bor ; and after a few days' farther acquaintance with
us, he did not hesitate to paddle in our presence, or
even carry his canoe on the portages. Several of the
canoes were managed by women, who proved to be
noisy companions, for they quarrelled frequently, and
the weakest was generally profuse in her lamentations,
which were not at all diminished, when the husband
attemped to settle the difference by a few blows with
his paddle.

Leaving the lake, we ascended a very strong rapid,
and arrived at a range of three steep cascades, situa-
ted in the bend of the river. Here we made a portage

In the Arctic Regions.

119

of one thousand three hundred yards over a rocky hill,
which received the name of the Bowstring Portage,
from its shape. We found that the Indians had great-
ly the advantage of us in this operation ; the men
carried their small canoes, the women and children
the clothes and provisions, and at the end t)f the por-
tage they were ready to emhark ; whilst it was neces-
sary for our people to return four times, before they
could transport the weighty cargo with which we were
burthened. After passing through another expansion
of the river, and over the steep portage of one hun-
dred and fifteen yards, we encamped on a small rocky
isle, just large enough to hold our party, and the In-
dians took possession of an adjoining rock. We were
now distant thirty miles from Fort Providence.

As soon as the tents were pitched, the officers and
men were divided into watches for the night ; a pre-
caution intended to be taken throughout the journey,
not merely to prevent our being surprised by strangers,
but also to show our companions that we were con-
stantly on our guard. The chief, who suffered noth-
ing to escape his observation, remarked, " that he
should sleep without anxiety among the Esquimaux,
for he perceived no enemy could surprise us."

After supper we retired to rest, but our sleep was
soon interrupted by the Indians joining in loud lamen-
tations over a sick child, whom they supposed to be

•i i

..a

■ \

120

Thirty Years

dying. Dr. Richardson, however, immediately went
to the boy, and administered some medicine which re-
lieved his pain, and put a stop to their mourning.
The temjieratures, this day, were at 4 A.M. 54°, three
P.M. 72° at seven P.M. Q6^,

On the 4th we crossed a small lake, and passed over
in succession the Blue Berry Cascade, and Double
Fall Portages, where the river falls over ridges of rocks
that completely obstruct the passage for canoes. We
came to three strong rapids beyond these barriers,
which were surmounted by the aid of the poles and
lines, and then to a bend of the river in which the cas-
cades were so frequent, that to avoid them we carried
the canoes into a chain of small lakes. We entered
them by a portage of nine hundred and fifty paces,
and during the afternoon traversed three other grassy
lakes, and encamped on the banks of the river, at the
end of the Yellow-Knife Portage, of three hundred
and fifty paces. This day's work was very laborious
to our men. Akaitcho, however, had directed his
party to assist them in carrying their burdens on the
portage3, which they did cheerfully. This morning
Mr. Back caught several fish with a fly, a method of
fishing entirely new to the Indians ; and they were
not more delighted than astonished at his skill and
success. The extremes of temperature to-day were
54° and Q^"",

I

1

m

In the Arctic Regions.

121

On August 5th, we continued the ascent of the riv-
er which varied much in breadth as did the current in
rapidity. It flows between high rocky banks on which
there is sufficient soil to support pines, birch, and pop-
lars. Five portages were crossed, then the Rocky
Lake, and we finished our labors at the end of the
sixth portage. The issue of dried meat for breakfast
this morning had exhausted all our stock ; and no
other provision remained but the portable soups, and
a few pounds of preserved meat. At the recommen-
dation of Akaitcho, the hunters were furnished with
ammunition, and desired to go forward as speedily as
possible, to the part where the reindeer were expect-
to be found ; and to return to us with any provision
they could procure. He also assured us that in our
advance towards them we should come to lakes abound-
ing in fish. Many of the Indians, being also in dis-
tress for food, decided on separating from us, and
going on at a quicker pace than we could travel.

Akaitcho himself was always furnished with a por-
tion at our meals, as a token of regard which the trad-
ers have taught the chiefs to expect, and which we
willingly paid.

The next morning we crossed a small lake and a
portage, before we entered the river ; shortly after-
wards, the canoes and cargoes were carried a mile alonsr

its banks to avoid three very strong rapids, and over

6

122

Thirty Years

another portage into a narrow lake ; we encamped on
an island in the middle of it, to set the nets ; but
they only yielded a few fish, and we had a very scanty
supper ; as it was necessary to deal out our provision
sparingly. ^

We had the mortification of finding the nets en-
tirely empty next morning, an untoward circumstance
that discouraged our voyagers very much ; and they
complained of being unable to support the fatigue to
which they were daily exposed, on their present scanty
fare. We had seen with regret that the portages were
more frequent as we advanced to the northward, and
feared that their strength would fail, if provision were
not soon obtained. We embarked at six, proceeded
' to the head of the lake, and crossed a portage of two
thousand five hundred paces, leading over ridges of
sand-hills, which nourished pines of a larger size than
we had lately seen. This conducted us to Mossy
Lake, from whence we regained the river, after travers-
ing another portage. The Birch and Poplar Porta-
ges next followed, and beyond these we came to a part
where the river takes a great circuit, and its course is
interrupted by several heavy falls. The guide, there-
fore, advised us to quit it, and proceed through a
chain of nine lakes extending to the north-east, which
we did, and encamped on Icy Portage, where the nets
were set. The bottom of the valley, through which

'

In the Arctic Regions.

123

the track across this portage led, was covered with ice
four or five feet thick, the remains of a large iceberg,
which is annually formed there, by the snow drifting
into the valley, and becoming consolidated into ice by
the overflowing of some springs that are warm enough
to resist the winter's cold.

We were alarmed in the night by our fire commu-
nicating to the dry moss, which spreading by the force
of a strong windj encircled the encampment and
threatened destruction to our canoes and baggi-.ge.
The watch immediately aroused all the men, who
~quickly removed whatever could be injured to a dis-
tant part, and afterward succeeded in extinguishing
the flame.

Aug, 8. — During this day we crossed five portages,
passing over a very bad road. The men were quite
exhausted with fatigue by five P.M., when we were
obliged to encamp on the borders of the fifth lake, in
which the fishing-nets were set. We began this eve-
ning to issue some portable soup and arrow-root,
which our companions relished very much ; but this
food is too unsubstantial to support their vigor under
their daily exhausting labor, and we could not fur-
nish them with a sufficient quantity even of this to
satisfy their desires. We commenced our labors on
the next day in a very wet, uncomfortable state, as it
had rained through the night until 4 A.M. The fifth

•Z^^: ;^

'l}-^'

124

Tliirty Years

grassy lake was crossed, and four others, with their in-
tervening portages, and we returned to the river by a
portage of one thousand four hundred and fifteen
paces. The width of the stream here is about one
hundred yards, its banks are moderately high, and
scantily covered with wood. We afterwards twice
carried the cargoes along its banks to avoid a very
stony rapid, and then crossed the first Carp portage,
and encamped on the borders of Lower Carp Lake.

The chief having told us that this was a good lake
for fishing, we determined on halting for a day or two
to recruit our men, of whom three were lame, and sev-
eral others had swelled legs. The chief himself went
forward to look after the hunters, and he promised to
make a fire as a signal if they had killed any reindeer.
All the Indians had left us in the course of yesterday
and to-day to seek these animals, except the guide
Keskarrah.

Aug. 10. — The nets furnishing only four carp, we
embarked for the purpose of searching for a better spot,
and encamped again on the shores of the same lake.
The spirits of the men were much revived by seeing
some recent traces of reindeer at this place, which
circumstance caused them to cherish the hope of soon
getting a supply of meat from the hunters. They
were also gratified by finding abundance of blue ber-
ries near to the encampment, which made an agreeable

. }\

In the Arctic Regions.

125

and substantial addition to their otherwise scanty fare.
"We were teased by the sand-flies this evening, al-
though the thermometer did not rise above 45". The
country through which we have traveled for some days
consists principally of granite, intermixed in some
spots with mica slate, often passing into clay-slate.
But the borders of Lower Carp Lake, where the gneiss
formation prevails, are composed of hills, having less
altitude, fewer precipices, and more rounded summits.
The valleys are less fertile, containing a gravelly soil
and fewer trees ; so that the country has throughout
a more barren aspect.

Aug, 11. — Having caught sufficient trout, white
fish, and carp, yesterday and this morning, to afford
the party two hearty meals, and the men being re-
covered of their fatigue, we proceeded on our journey,

^ crossed the Upper Carp Portage, and embarked on
the lake of that name, where we had the gratification

'\ of paddling for ten miles. We put up at its termina-
tion to fish, by the advice of our guide. At this place
we first perceived the north end of our dipping-needle
to pass the perpendicular line when the instrument
was faced to the west.

We had scarcely quitted the encampment next day
before an Indian met us, with the agreeable commu-
nication, that the hunters had made several fires,
which were certain indications of their having killed

126

Thirty Years

reindeer. This intelligence inspired our companions
with fresh energy, and they quickly traversed the next
portage, and paddled through the Reindeer Lake ;
at the north side of it we found the canoes of our
hunters, and learned from our guide that the Indians
usually leave their canoes here, as the water commu-
nication on their hunting grounds is bad. The Yel-
low-Knife River has now dwindled into an insignificant
rivulet, and we could not trace it beyond the next
lake, except as a mere brook. The latitude of its
source 64° 1' 30" N., longitude 113° 36' W., and its
length is one hundred and fifty-six statute miles.
Though this river is of sufficient breadth and depth
for navigating in canoes, yet I conceive its course is
too much interrupted by cascades and rapids for its
ever being used as a channel for the conveyance ot
merchandize. Whilst the crews were employed in
making a portage over the foot of Prospect Hill, we
ascended to the top of it, and as it is the highest
ground in the neighborhood, its summii,, which is
about five hundred feet above the water, commands
an extensive view.

Akaitcho, who was here with his family, pointed
out to us the smoke of the distant fires which the
hunters had made. The prospect from the hill is
agreeably diversified by an intermixture of hill and
valley, and the appearance of twelve lakes in different

II^.

In the Arctic Regions.

127

directions. On the borders of these lakes a few thin
pine groves occur, but the country in genetal is desti-
tute of almost every vegetable, except a few berry-
bearing shrubs and lichens, and has a very barren
aspect. The hills are composed of gneiss, but their
acclivities are covered with a coarse gravelly soil.
There are many loose stones both on their summits
and acclivities, composed of the same materials as
solid rock.

We crossed another lake in the evening, encamped,
and set the nets. The chief made a large fire to
announce our situation to the hunters.

August 13. — We caught twenty fish this morning,
but they were small, and furnished but a scanty break-
fast for the part3% Whilst this meal was preparing,
our Canadian voyagers, who had been for some days
past murmuring at their meagre diet, and striving to
get the whole of our little provision to consume at
once, broke out into open discontent, and several of
them threatened they would not proceed forward unless
more food was given to them. This conduct was the
more unpardonable, as they saw we were rapidly ap-
proaching the fires of the hunters, and that pro-
vision might soon be expected. I therefore felt the
duty incumbent on me, to address them in the
strongest manner on the danger of insubordination,
and to assure them of my determination to inflict the

,A^^-^:^-^^,^^-.:

128

Thirty Years

heaviest punishment on any that should persist in
their refusal to go on, or in any other way attempt to
retard the Expedition. I considered this decisive
step necessary, having learned from the gentlemen
most intimately acquainted with the character of the
Canadian voyagers, that they invariably try how far
they can impose upon every new master with whom
they may serve, and that they will continue to be
disobedient and intractable if they once gain any
ascendency over him. I must admit, however, that
the present hardships of our companions were of a kind
which few could support without murmuring, and no
one could witness without feeling a sincere pity for
their sufferings.

After this discussion we went forward until sunset.
In the course of the day we crossed seven lakes and
as many portages. Just as we had encamped, we
were delighted to see four of the hunters arrive, with
the flesh of two reindeer. This seasonable supply,
though only sufficient for this evening's and the next
day's consumption, instantly revived the spirits of our
companions, and they immediatelgr forgot all their
cares. As we did not, after this period, experience
any deficiency of food during this journey, they worked
extremely well, and never- again reflected upon us as
they had done before, for rashly bringing them into an
inhospitable country, where the means of subsistence
could not be procured. *

In the Arctic Regions.

129

Several blue fish, resembling the grayling, were
caught in a stream which flows out of Hunter's Lake.
It is remarkable for the largeness of its dorsal fins,
and the beauty of its colors.

August 14. — Having crossed the Hunter's Portage,
we entered the lake of the same name, but soon quitted
it by desire of the Indian guide, and diverged more to
the eastward, that we might get into the line upon
which our hunters had gone. This was the only con-
sideration that could have induced us to remove to a
chain of small lakes, connected by long portages. We
crossed three of these, and then were obliged to en-
camp to rest the men.

After starting we first crossed the Orknev Lake,
then a portage which brought us to Sandy Lake, and
here we missed one of our barrels of powder, which
the steersman of the canoe then recollected had been
left yesterday. He and two other men were sent back
to search for it, in the small canoe. The rest of the
party proceeded to the portage on the north side of
the Grizzle- Bear Lake, where the hunters had made
a deposit of meat,* and there encamped to await
their return, which happened at nine P. M. with the
powder.

On August the 17th, having finished drying the
meat, which had been retarded by the heavy showers
of rain that fell in the morning, we embarked at one

6»

130

Thirty Years

P. M. and crossed two lakes and two portages. The
last of these was two thousand and sixty-six paces
long, and very rugged, so that the men were much
fatigued. On the next day we received the flesh of
four reindeer by the small canoe which had been sent
for it yesterday, and heard that the hunters had kill-
ed several more deer on our route. We saw many of
those animals as we passed along to-day ; and our
companions, delighted with the prospect of having
food in abundance, now began to accompany their pad-
dling with singing, which they had discontinued ever
since our provisions became scarce.

Aug. 19. — After crossing a portage of five hundred
and ninety-five paces, a small lake and another portage
of two thousand paces, which occupied the crews seven
*' hours, we embarked on a small stream, running to-
wards the north-west, which carried us to the lake,
where Akaitcho proposed that we should pass the win-
ter. The officers ascended several of the loftiest hills
in the course of the day, prompted by a natural
anxiety to examine the spot which was to be their
residence for many months. The prospect, however,
was not then the most agreeable, as the borders of
the lake seemed to be scantily furnished with wood,
and that of a kind too small for the purposes of
luilding.

We perceived the smoke of a distant fire which the

%

)i

In the Arctic Regions .

131

Indians supposed had been made by some of the Dog-
ribbed tribe, who occasionally visit this part of the
country.

Embarking at seven next morning, we paddled to
the western extremity of the lake, and there found a
small river, which flows out of it to the 8.W. To
avoid a strong rapid at its commencement, we made a
portage, and then crossed to the north bank of the
river, where the Indians recommended that the winter
establishment should be erected, and we soon found
that the situation they had chosen possessed all the
advantages we could have desired. The trees were
numerous, and of a far greater size than we had sup-
posed them to be yesterday — some of the pines being
thirty or forty feet high, and two feet in diameter at
the root. We determined on placing the house on the
summit of the bank, which commands a beautiful
prospect of the surrounding country. The view in
the front is bounded at the distance of three miles, by
round-backed hills ; to the eastward and westward lie
the Winter and round- rock Lakes, which are connect-
ed by the Winter River, whose banks are well clothed
with pines, and ornamented with a profusion of mos-
ses, lichens, and shrubs.

In the afternoon we read divine service, and offered
our thanksgiving to the Almighty for his goodness in
having brought us thus far on our journey ; a duty

m

132

Thirty Years

which we never neglected, when stationary on the sab-
bath.

The united length of the portages we have crossed,
since leaving Fort Providence, is twenty-one statute
miles 'and a half ; and as our men had to traverse
each portage four times, with a load of one hundred
and eighty pounds, and return three times light, they
walked in the whok upwards of one hundred and fifty
miles. The total length of our voyage from Chipew-
yan is five hundred and fifty three-miles.*

A fire was made on the south side of the river to
inform the chief of our arrival, which spreading before
a strong wind, caught the whole wood, and we were
completely enveloped in a cloud of smoke for the three
following days.

On the next morning our voyagers were divided into
two parties, the one to cut the wood for the building
of a store house, and the other, to fetch the meat as
fast as the hunters procured it. An interpreter was
sent with Keskarrah, the guide, to search for the In-
dians who had made the fire seen on Saturday, from
whom we might obtain some supplies of provision.

statute Milos.

'* Stony and Slave Rivers 260

Slave Lake 107

Yellow-Knife River 156.5

i)arren country between the source of the Yellow-
Knife Birer and Fort Enterprize - •> - 29.6

668

#

In the Arctic Regions,

133

An Indian was also despatched to Akaitcho, with di-
rections for him to come hither directly, and bring
whatever provision he had, as we were desirous of pro-
ceeding, without delay, to .the Copper-^ine River.
In the evening our men brought in the carcasses of
seven reindeer, which two hunters had shot yester-
day, and the women commenced drying the meat for
our journey. We also obtained a good supply of fish
from our nets to-day.

A heavy rain, on the 23d, prevented the men from
working, either at the building, or going for meat ;
but on the next day the weather was fine, and they
renewed their labors. The thermometer, that day,
did not rise higher than 42^, and it fell to 31^ before
midnight. On the morning of the 25th, we were sur-
prised by some early symptoms of the approach of
winter ; the small pools were frozen over, and a flock
of geese passed to the southward. In the afternoon,
however, a fog came on, which afterwards changed into
rain, and the ice quickly disappeared. We suffered
great anxiety all the next day respecting John Hep-
burn, who had gone to hunt before sunrise on the 25 th,
and been absent ever since. About four hours after
his departure the wind changed, and a dense fog ob-
scured every mark by hich his course to the tents
could be directed, and we thought it probable he had
been wandering in an opposite direction to our situa-

•

134

Thirty Years

tion, as the two hunters, who had been sent out to
look for him, returned at sunset without having seen
him. Akaitcho arrived with his party, and we were
greatly disam^ointed at finding they had stored up
only fifteen reindeer for us. St. Germain informed us,
that having heard of the death of the chiefs brother-
in-law, they had spent several days in bewailing his
loss, instead of hunting. We learned also, that the
decease of this man had caused another party of the
tribe, who had been sent by Mr, Wentzel to prepare
provision for us on the banks of the Copper-Mine
River, to remove to the shores of the Great Bear Lake,
distant from our proposed route. Mortifying as these
circumstances were, they produced less painful sensa-
tions than we experienced in the evening, by the re-
fusal of Akaitcho to accompany us in the proposed de-
scent of the Copper Mine River. When Mr. Wentzel,
by my direction, communicated to him my intention
of proceeding at once on that service, he desired a con-
ference with me upon the subject, which being imme-
diately granted, he began by stating, that the very
attempt would be rash and dangerous, as the weather
was cold, the leaves were falling, some geese had
passed to the southward, and the winter would shortly
set in ; and that, as he considered the lives of all who
went on such a journey would be forfeited, he neither
would go himself, nor permit his hunters to accompany

In the Arctic Regions.

135

A

US. He said there was no wood within eleven days'
march, during which time we could not have any fire,
as the moss, which the Indians use in their summer
excursions, would be too wet for burning, in conse-
quence of the recent rains ; that we should be forty
days in descending the Copper-Mine Biver, six of
which would be expended in getting to its banks, and
that we might be blocked up by the ice in the next
moon ; and during the whole journey the party must
experience great suffering for want of food, as the
reindeer had already left the river.

He was now reminded that these statements were
very different from the account he had given, both at
Port Providence and on the route hither ; and that
up to this moment, we had been encouraged by his
conversation to expect that the party might descend
the Copper-Mine River, accompanied by the Indians.
He replied, that at the former place he had been un-
acquainted with our slow mode of traveling, and that
the alteration, in his opinion, arose from the advance
of winter.

We now informed him, that we were provided
with instruments by which we could ascertain the
state of the air and water, and that we did not ima-
gine the winter to be so near as he supposed ; how-
ever, we promised to return on discovering the first
change in the season. He was aiso told that all the

136

ThiHy Years

\

baggage being left behind, our canoes would now, of
course, travel infinitely more expeditiously than any
thing he had hitherto witnessed. Akaitcho appeared
to feel hurt, that we should continue to press the
matter further, and answered with some warmth :
*' Well, I have said everything I can urge, to dissuade
you from going on this service, on which it seems, you
wish to sacrifice your own lives, as well as the Indians
who might attend you : however, if after all I have
said, you are determined to go, some of my young men
shall join the party, because it shall not be said, that
we permitted you to die alone after having brought
you hither ; but from the moment they embark in the
canoes, I and my relatives shall lament them as dead."

We could only reply to this forcible appeal, by;
assuring him and the Indians who were seated around »
him, that we felt the most anxious solicitude for the
safety of every individual, and that it was far from
our intention to proceed without considering every
argument for and against the proposed journey.

We next informed him, that it would be very de-
sirable to see the river at any rate, that we might
give some positive information about its situation and
size, in our next letters to the great chief ; and that
we were very anxious to get on its banks for the pur-
pose of observing an eclipse of the sun, which we
described to him^ and said would happen in a few

*«»»~-L.

In the Arctic Regions.

137

days. He received this communication with more
temper than the preceding, though he immediately-
assigned as a reason for his declining to go, that " the
Indians must now procure a sufficient quantity of
deer-skins for winter clothing for themselves, and
dresses for the Canadians, who would need them if
they had to travel in the winter." Finding him so
averse to proceed, and feeling, at the same time, how
essential his continuance with us was, not only to our
future success, but even to our existence during the
winter ; I closed the conversation here, intending to
propose to him next morning some modification of the
plan, which might meet his approbation. Soon after
we were gone, however, he informed Mr. Wentzel,
with whom he was in the habit of speaking confi-^
dentially, that as his advice was neglected, his presence
was useless, and he should, therefore, return to Fort
Providence with his hunters, after he had collected
some winter provision for us. Mr. Wentzel having
reported this to me, the night was passed in great
anxiety, and after weighing all the arguments that
presented themselves to my mind, I came reluctantly
to the determination of relinquishing the intention of
going any distance down the river this season.

The month of September commenced with very
disagreeable weather. The temperature of the atmos-
phere ranged between 39° and 31° during the first

138

Thirty Years

three days, and that of the water in the river de-
creased from 49° to 44^*.

In the afternoon of September the 6 th, we removed
our tent to the summit of a hill, about three miles
distant, for the better observing the eclipse, which
was calculated to occur on the next morning. We
were prevented, however, from witnessing it by a
heavy snow-storm, and the only observation we could
then make was to examine whether the temperature
of the atmosphere altered during the eclipse, but we
found that both the mercurial and spirit thermometers
remained steadily at 30" for a quarter of an hour
previous to its commencement, during its continuance,
and for half an hour subsequent to its termination ;
we remarked the wind increased very much, and the
snow fell in heavier flakes just after the estimated
time of its commencement. This boisterous weather
continued until three P.M., when the wind abated,
and the snow changed to rain.

The men continued to work diligently at the house,
and by the 30 th of September had nearly completed
it for our reception, when a heavy fall of rain washed
the greater part of the mud off the roof. This rain
was remarked by the Indians as unusual, after what
they had deemed so decided a commencement of winter
in the early part of the month. The mean temper-
ature for the month was 33/4°, but the thermometer had
sunk as low as 16°, and on one occasion risen to 53°.

»<n"i- 1 iiiiir 'itti'i .

aiH^<ll>ll

^e^

In the Arctic Regions.

139

CHAPTER VI.

On the 6th of October, the house being completed,
we struck our tents, and removed into it. It was
merely a log building, fifty feet long, and twenty-four
wide, divided into a hall, three bed-rooms, and a
kitchen. The walls and roof were plastered with
clay, the floors laid with planks rudely squared with
the hatchet, and the windows closed with parchment
of deerskin. The clay, which, from the coldness of
the weather, required to be tempered before the fire
with hot water, froze as it was daubed on, and after-
wards cracked in such a manner as to admit the wind
from every quarter ; yet, compared with the tents,
our new habitation appeared comfortable ; and having
filled our capacious clay-built chimney with fagots,
we spent a cheerful evening before the invigorating
blaze. The change was peculiarly beneficial to Dr.
Richardson, who having, in one of his excursions,
incautiously laid down on the frozen side of a hill
when heated with walking, had caught a severe in-

140

1

'

Thirty Years

flammatory sore throat, which became daily worse
whilst we remained in the tents, but began to amend
soon after he was enabled to confine himself to the
more equable warmth of the house. We took up our
abode at first on the floor, but our working party, who
had shewn such skill as house-carpenters, soon proved
themselves to be, with the same tools, the hatchet
and crooked knife, excellent cabinet-makers, and
daily added a table, a chair, or bedstead, to the com-
forts of our establishment.

On the 1st of December the sky was clear, a slight
appearance of stratus only being visible near the hori-
zon ; but a kind of snow fell at intervals in the fore-
noon, its particles so minute as to be observed only in
the sunshine. Towards noon the snow became more
apparent, and the two limbs of a prismatic arch were
visible, one on each side of the sun near its place in
the heavens, the centre being deficient. We have
frequently observed this descent of minute icy spiculaa
when the s^y appears perfectly clear, and could even
perceive that its silent, but continued action, added
to the snowy covering of the ground.

Having received one hundred balls from Fort Provi-
dence by Belanger, we distributed them among the
Indians, informing the leader at the same time, that
the residence of so large a party as his at the house,
amounting, with women and children, to forty souls,

In the Arctic Regions.

141

was producing a serious reduction in our stock of
provisions.

As it may be interesting to the reader to know how
we passed our time at this season of the year, I shall
mention briefly, that a considerable portion of it was
occupied in writing up our journals. Some newspa-
pers and magazines, that we had received from Eng-
land with our letters, were read again and again, and
commented upon, at our meals ; and we often exer-
cised ourselves with conjecturing the changes that
might take place in the world before we could hear
from it again. The probability of our receiving let-
ters, and the period of their arrival, were calculated to
a nicety. We occasionally paid the woodmen a visit^^
or took a walk for a mile or two on the river. ^^

In the evenings we joined the men in the hall, and
took a part in their games, which generally continued
to a late hour ; in short, we never found the time to
hang heavy upon our hands ; and the peculiar occu-
pations of each of the officers afforded them more em-
ployment than might at first be supposed. I re-cal-
culated the observations made on our route ; Mr.
Hood protracted the charts, and made those drawings
of birds, plants, and fishes, which cannot appear in
this work, but which have been the admiration of every
one who has seen them. Each of the party sedulous-
ly and separately recorded their observations on the

I
I

142

Tliirty Years

aurora, and Dr. Richardson contrived to obtain from
under the snow specimens of most of the lichens in tho
neighborhood, and to make himself acquainted with
the mineralogy of the surrounding country.

The Sabbath was always a day of rest with us ; the
woodmen were required to provide for the exigencies
of that day on Saturday, and the party were dressed in
their best attire. Divine service was regularly per-
formed, and the Canadians attended, and behaved
with great decorum, although they were all Roman
Catholics, and but little acquainted with the language
in which the prayers were read. I regretted much that
we had not a French prayer-book, but the Lord's
Prayer and Creed were always read to them in their
own language.

Our diet consisted almost entirely of the reindeer
meat, varied twice a week by fish, and occasionally by
a little flour, but we had no vegetables of any descrip-
tion. On the Sunday mornings we drank a cup ot
chocolate, but our greatest luxury was tea (without
sugar), of which we regularly partook twice a day.
With reindeer's fat, and strips of cotton shirts, we
formed candles ; and Hepburn acquired considerable
skill in the manufacture of soap, from wood- ashes, fat,
and salt. The formation of soap was considered as
rather a mysterious operation by our Canadians, and,
in their hands, was always supposed to fail if a woman

In the Arctic Rcgiona.

143

approached the kettle in which the ley was boiling.
Such are our simple domestic details.

On the 30th, two hunters came from the leader, to
convey ammunition to him, as soon as our men should
bring it from Fort Providence.

The men, at this time, coated the walls of the
house on the outside, with a thin mixture of clay and
water, which formed a crust of ice, that, for some
days, proved impervious to the air ; the dryness of the
atmosphere, however, was such, that the ice in a short
time evaporated, and gave admission to the wind as
before. It is a general custom at the forts to give
this sort of coating to the walls at Christmas time.
When it was gone we attempted to remedy its defect,
by heaping up snow against the walls.

jin^.^i. "^^^8 morning our men collected, and greeted us
with the customary salutation on the commencement
of the New Year. That they might enjoy a holiday,
they had yesterday collected double the usual quantity
of fire-wood, and we anxiously expected the arrival of
the men from Fort Providence, with some additions to
their comforts. We were led the more readily to hope
for their arrival before the evening, as we knew that
every voyager uses his utmost endeavor to reach a post
upon, or previous to, the jour de Van, that he may
partake of the wonted festivities. It forms the theme
of their conversation for months before and after the

^

s.

144

Thirty Years

period of its arrival On the present occasion we
could only treat them with a little flour and fat;
these were both considered as great luxuries, but still
the feast was defective from the want of rura, although
we promised them a little when it should arrive.

The early part of January proved mild, the ther-
mometer rose to 20** above zero, and we were surpris-
ed by the appearance of a kind of damp fog approach-
ing very nearly to rain. The Indians expressed their
astonishment at this circumstance, and declared the
present to be one of the warmest winters they had ever
experienced. Some of them reported that it had ac-
tually rained in the woody parts of the country. In
the latter part of the month, however, the thermome-
ter again descended to — 49°, and the mean temper-
ature for the month proved to be — 15.6°. Owing to
the fogs that obscured the sky, the aurora was visible
only upon eighteen nights in the month.

On the 15th seven of our men arrived from Fort
Providence with two kegs of rum, one barrel of pow-
der, sixty pounds of ball, two rolls of tobacco, and
8o:ne clothing. They had been twenty-one days on
their march from Slave Lake, and the labor they un-
derwent was sufficiently evinced by their sledge-collars
having worn out the shoulders of their coats. Their
loads weighed from sixty to ninety pounds each, ex-
clusive of their bedding and provisions, which at start-

In the Artie Regions.

145

ino- must have been at least as much more. We were

o

much rejoiced at their arrival, and proceeded forthwith
to pierce the spirit cask, and issue to each of the
household the portion of rum which had been promis-
ed to them on the first day of the year. The spirits,
which were proof, were frozen, but after standing at
the fire for some time, they flowed out of the consis-
tency of honey. The temperature of the liquid, even
in this state, was so low as instantly to convert into
ice the moisture which condensed on the surface of the
dram-glass. The fingers also adhered to the glass,
and would, doubtless, have been speedily frozen had
they been kept in contact with it, yet each of the
voyagers swallowed his dram without experiencing the
slightest inconvenience, or complaining even of the
tooth-ach.

The temperature in February was considerably low-
er than in the preceding month, although not so low
as in December, the mean being — 25.3^. The great-
est temperature was 1** above zero, and the lowest 51^
below.

On the 5th of March the people returned from Slave
Lake, bringing the remainder of our stores, consisting
of a cask of flour, thirty-six pounds of sugar, a roll of
tobacco, and forty pounds of tobacco. I received a
letter from Mr. Weeks, wherein he denied that he had

ever circulated any reports to our disadvantage ; and

7

/

/

146

Tliirty Years

stated that he had done every thing in his power to
assist us, and even discouraged Akaitcho from leaving
us, when he had sent him a message, saying, that he
wished to do so, if he was sure of being well received
at Fort Providence.

On the 29th Akaitcho arrived at the house, having
been sent for to make some arrangements respecting
the procuring of provision, and that we might learn
from him what his sentiments were with regard to ac-
companying us on our future journey. Next morning
we had a conference, which I commenced by shewing
him the charts and drawings that were prepared to be
sent to England, and explaining fully our future in-
tentions. He appeared much pleased at this mark of
attention, and, when his curiosity was satisfied, began
his speech by saying, that *' although a vast number
of idle rumors had been floating about the barren
grounds during the winter," yet he was convinced that
the representations that had been made to him at Fort
Providence regarding the purport of the Expedition
were perfectly correct. I next pointed out to him the
necessity of our proceeding with as little delay as pos-
sible during the short period of the year that was fit
for our operations, and that to do so it was requisite
we should have a large supply of provisions at starting.

On the 7th of May, Dr. Richardson returned from
his excursion. He informed me that the reindeer were

In the Arctic Itegions.

147

again advancing to the northward, but that the leader
had been joined by several families of old people, and
that the daily consumption of*provision at the Indian
tents was consequently great. This information exci-
ted some painful apprehensions of being very scantily
provided when the period for our departure should arrive.
The weather in the beginning of May was fine and
warm. On the 2d some patches of sandy ground near
the house were cleared of snow. On the 7th the sides
of the hills began to appear bare, and on the 8th a
large house fly was seen. This interesting event
spread cheerfulness through our residence and formed
a topic of conversation for the rest of the day.
' Dr. Richardson and Mr. Back having visited the
country to the northward of the Slave Rock, and
reported that they thought we might travel over it,
I signified my intention of sending the first party off
on Monday the 4th of June. I was anxious to get the
Indians to move on before, but they lingered about
the house, evidently with the intention of picking up
such articles as we might deem unnecessary to take.
When Akaitcho was made acquainted with my pur-
pose of sending away a party of men, he came to in-
form me that he would appoint two hunters to accom-
pany them, and at the same time requested that Dr.
Richardson, or as he called him, the Medicine Chiefj
might be sent with his own band.

T
t

148

Thirty Years

■< '

Oa the 7th the wind changing to the southward,
dispersed the clouds which had obscured the sky for
several days, and produced a change of temperature
under which the snow rapidly disappeared. The
thermometer rose to 73°, many flies came forth, mus-
c^uitoes shewed themselves for the first time, and one
swallow made its appearance. "We were the more
gratified \nth. these indications of summer, that St.
Germain was enabled to commence upon the repair of
the canoes, and before night had completed the two
which had received the least injury. Augustus killed
two deer to-day.

On the 10th the dip of the magnetic needle being
observed, shewed a decrease of 22' 44 ", since last
autumn. The repairs of the third canoe were finished
this evening.

The snow was now confined to the bases of the hills,
and our Indian hunter told us the season was early.
The operations of nature, however, seemed to us very
tardy. We were eager to be gone, and dreaded the
lapse of summer, before the Indians would allow it
had begun.

On the 11th the geese and ducks had left the
vicinity of Fort Enterprize, and proceeded to the
northward. Some young ravens and whiskey-johns
made their appearance at this time.

On the 12th, Winter River was nearly cleared of

In the Arctic Begions.

149

ice, and on the 13th the men returned, having left Dr.
Bichardson on the borders of Point Lake. Dr. Bich-
ardson informed me by letter that the snow was deeper
in many parts near his encampment than it had been
at any time last winter near Fort Enterprize, and
that the ice on Point Lake had scarcely begun to
decay. Although the voyagers were much fatigued
on their arrival, and had eaten nothing for the last
twenty-four hours, they were very cheerful, and ex-
pressed a desire to start with the remainder of the
stores next morning.

150

Tldrty Tears

CHAPTER VII.

1821.
June 14

'¥.

The trains for the canoes having been fin-
ished during the night, the party attached to them
commenced their journey at ten this mornigg. Each
canoe was dragged by four men assisted by two dogs.
They took the route of Winter Lake, with the inten-
tion of following, although more circuitous, the water-
course as far as practicable, it being safer for the
canoes than traveling over land. After their de-
parture, the remaining stores, the instruments, and
our small stock of dried meat, amounting only to
eighty pounds, were distributed equally among Hep-
burn, three Canadians, and the two Esquimaux ; with
this party and two Indian hunters, we quitted Fort
Enterprize, most sincerely rejoicing that the long-
wished for day had arrived, when we were to proceed
towards the final object of the Expedition.

We left in one of the rooms a box, containing a
journal of the 'occurrences up to this date, the charts,
and some drawings, which was to be conveyed to Fort

In the Arctic Regions,

151

Chipewyan by Mr. Wentzel, on his return from the
sea, and from thence to be sent to England. The
room was blocked up, and, by the advice of Mr.
Wentzel, a drawing representing a man holding a
daori^er in a threatening: attitude, was affixed to the
door, to deter any Indians from breaking it open.
We directed our course towards the Dog-rib Rock,
but as our companions were loaded with the weight of
near one hundred and eighty pounds weight each, we
of necessity proceeded at a slow pace. The day was
extremely warm, and the musquitoes, whose attacks
had hitherto been feeble, issued forth in swarms from
the marshes, and were very tormenting. Having
walked five miles we encamped near a small cluster of
pines about two miles from the Dog-rib Rock. The
canoe party had not been seen since they set out.

«

Our hunters went forward to Marten Lake, intending
to wait for us at a place where two deer were de-
posited. At nine P. M. the temperature of the air
was 63^

We resumed our march at an early hour, and
crossed several lakes which lay in our course, as the
ice enabled the men to drag their burdens on trains
formed of sticks and deers' horns, with more ease than
they could carry them on their backs. We were kept
constantly wet by this operation, as the ice had
broken near the shores of the lak^S, but this incon-

152

Thirty Tears

venience was not regarded, as the day was unusually
warm ; the temperature at two P. M. being 82K'*.
At Marten Lake we joined the canoe party, and en-
camped with them. We had the mortification ©f
learning from our hunters that the meat they had put
en cache here, had been destroyed by the wolverenes,
and we had in consequence, to furnish the supper
from our scanty stock of dried meat. The wind
changed from S.E. to N.E. in the evening, and the
weather became very cold, the thermometer being 43**
at nine P.M. The few dwarf birches we could collect
afforded fire insufficient to keep us warm, and we
retired under the covering of our blankets as soon as
the supper was despatched. The N.E. breeze ren-
dered the night so extremely cold, that we procured
but little sleep, having neither fire nor shelter, for
though we carried our tents, we had been forced to
leave the tent poles which we could not now replace ;
we therefore gladly recommenced the journey at five
in the morning, and traveled through the remaining
part of the lake on the ice. Its surface being quite
smooth, the canoes were dragged along expeditiously
by the dogs, and the rest of the party had to walk
very quick to keep pace with them, which occasioned
them to get many heavy falls. By the time we had
reached the end of the lake, the wind had increased to
a perfect gale', aif& the atmosphere was so cold that

In the Arctic Regions.

15d

we could not proceed with the canoes further without
the risk of breaking the bark and seriously injuring
them, we therefore crossed Winter River in them, and
put up on a ridge of sand hills in a well sheltered
place. But as the stock of provision was scanty, we
determined on proceeding as quick as possible, and
leaving the canoe party under the charge of Mr.
Wentzel. We parted from them in the afternoon,
and first directed our course towards a range of hills,
where we expected to find Antonio Fontano, who had
separated from us in the morning. In crossing to-
wards those hills I fell through the ice into the lake,
with my bundle on my shoulders, but was soon extri-
cated without receiving any injury ; and Mr. Back,
who left us to go in search of the straggler, met with
a similar accident in the evening. We put up on a
ridge of sand hills, where we found some pines, and
made a large fire to apprise Mr. Back and Fontano of
our situation. St. Germain having killed a deer in
the afternoon, we received an acceptable supply of
meat. The night was stormy and very cold.

At five next morning our men were sent in different
directions after our absent companions, but as the
weather was foggy, we despaired of finding them unless
they should chance to hear the muskets our people
were desired to fire They returned, however, at ten,
bringing intelligence of them. I went immediately

7«

154

Thh'ty Years

with Heburn to join Mr. Back, and directed Mr. Hood
to proceed with the Canadians, and halt with them at
a spot where the hunters had killed a deer. Though
Mr. Back was much fatigued, he set off with me im-
mediately, and in the evening we rtvjoined our friends
on the borders of the Big Lake. The Indians inform-
ed us that Fontano only remained a few hours with
them, and then continued his journey. We had to
oppose a violent gale and frequent snow storms
through the day, which unseasonable weather caused
the temperature to descend below the freezing point
this evening. The situation of our encampment being
bleak, and our fuel stunted green willows, we passed
a very cold and uncomfortable night.

June 18. — Though the breeze was moderate this
morning, the atmosphere was piercingly keen. When
on the point of starting, we perceived Mr. Wentzel's
party coming, and awaited his arrival to learn whether
the canoes had received any injury during the severe
weather of yesterday. Finding that they had not, we
proceeded to get upon the ice on the lake, which could
not be effected without walking up to the waist in
water, for some distance from its borders. We had
not the command of our feet in this situation, and the
men fell often ; poor Junius broke through the ice
with his heavy burden on his back, but fortunately
was not hurt.

In the Arctic Regions.

155

This lake is extensive, and large arms branch from
its main course in different directions. At these parts
we crossed the projecting points of land, and on each
occasion had to wade as before, which so wearied every
one, that we rejoiced when we reached its north side
and encamped, though our resting-place was a bare
rock. We had the happiness of finding Fontano at
this place. The poor fellow had passed the three pre-
ceding days without tasting food, and was exhausted
by anxiety and hunger. His sufferings were consider-
ed to have been a sufficient punishment for his impru-
dent conduct in separating from us, and we only ad-
monished him to be more cautious in future.

Having received information that the hunters had
killed a deer, we sent three men to fetch the meat,
which was distributed between our party, and the
canoe men who had been encamped near to us. The
thermometer at three P.M. was 46^, and at nine 34°.

We commenced the following day by crossing a
lake about four miles in length, and then passed over
a succession of rugged hills for nearly the same dis-
tance. The men being anxious to reach some pine
trees, which they had seen on their former journey,
walked a quick pace., though they were suffering from
swelled legs and rheumatic pains ; we could not, how-
ever, attain the desired point, and therefore encamped
on the declivity of a hill, which sheltered us from the

' ij

156

Thirty Years

wind ; and used the reindeer moss for fuel, which af-
forded us more warmth 'than we expected. We per-
ceived several patches of snow yet remaining on the
surrounding hills. The thermometer varied to-day
between 5b^ and 45**.

On the 20th of June we began our march by cross-
ing a small lake, not without much risk, as the sur-
face of the ico was covered with water to the depth of
two feet, and there were many holes into which we
slipped, in spite of our efforts to avoid them. A few
of the men being fearful of attempting the traverse
with their heavy loads, walked round the eastern end
of the lake. The parties met on the sandy ridge,
which separates the streams that fall into Winter
Lake from those that flow to the northward ; and here
we killed three deer. Near the base of this ridge we
crossed a small but rapid stream, in which there is a
remarkable cascade of about fifty feet descent. Some
Indians joined us here, and gave us information re-
specting the situation of Dr. Bichardson's tent, which
our hunters considered was sufficient for our guidance,
and therefore proceeded as quickly as they could.
We marched a few miles farther in the evening, and
encamped among some pines ; but the comfort of a f
good fire did not compensate for the torment we suf-
fered from the host of musquitoes we found at this spot.
The temperature was 52°,

In the Arctic Regions.

157

We set off' next morning at a very early hour. The
men took the course of Point Lake, that they might
use their sledges, but the officers pursued the nearest
route by land to Dr. Richardson's tent, which wo
reached at eleven A. M. It was situated on the west-
ern side of an arm of the lake, and near to the part
through which the Copper-Mine River runs. Our men
arrived soon after us, and in the evening Mr. Wentzel
and his party, with the canoes in excellent condition.
They were much jaded by their fatiguing journey, and
several were lame from swellings of the lower extrem-
ities. The ice on the^lake was still six or seven feet
thick, and there was no appearance of its decay except
near the edges ; and as it was evident that, by remain-
ing here until it should be removed, we might lose
every prospect of success in our undertaking, I deter-
mined on dragging our stores along its surface, until
we should come to a part of the river where we could
embark ; and directions were given this evening for
each man to prepare a train for the conveyance of his
portion of the stores. I may remark here, as a proof
of the strong eflfect of radiation from the earth in
melting the ice, that the largest holes in the ice were
always formed at the base of the high and steep cliflfs,
which abound on the borders of this lake.

We found Akaitcho and the hunters encamped here,
but their families, and the rest of the tribe, had gone

158

Thirty Years

off two days before to the Beth-see-to, a large lake to
the northward, where they intended passing the sum-
mer. Long-legs and Keskarrah had departed, to de-
sire the Hook to collect as much meat as he could
against our arrival at his lodge. We were extremely
distressed to learn from Dr. Eichardson, that Akaitcho
and his party had expended all the ammunition they
had received at Fort Enterprize, without having con-
tributed any supply of provision. The Doctor had,
however, through the assistance of two hunters he
kept with him, prepared two hundred pounds of dried
meat, which was now our sole dependenfje for the
journey. On the following morning I represented to
Akaitcho that we had been greatly disappointed by
his conduct, which was so opposite to the promise of
exertion he had made, on quitting Fort Enterprize.
He offered many excuses, but finding they were not
satisfactory, he admitted that the greater part of the
ammunition had been given to those who accompanied
the women to the Beth-see-to, and promised to behave
better in future. I then told him, that I intended in
future to give them ammunition only in proportion to
the meat which was brought in, and that wc should
commence upon that plan, by supplying him with
fifteen balls, and the hunters with ten each.

The number of our hunters was now reduced to
five, as two of the most active declined going any fur-

In the Arctic Begiona.

159

ther, their father, who thought himself dying, having
solicited them to remain and close his eyes. These
five were furnished with ammunition, and sent for-
ward to hunt on the south border of the lake, with
directions to place any meat they might procure near
to the edge of the lake, and set up marks to guide us
to the spots. Akaitcho, his brother, the guide, and
three other men, remained to accompany us. We
were much surprised to perceive an extraordinary dif-
ference in climate in so short an advance to the north-
ward as fifty miles. The snow here was lying in large
patches on the hills. The dwarf-birch and willows
were only just beginning to open their buds, which
had burst forth at Fort Enterprize many days previous
to our departure. Vegetation seemed to be three weeks
or a month later here than at that place. We had
heavy showers of rain through the night of the 22d,
which melted the snow, and visibly wasted the ice.

On the 23d, the men were busily employed in mak-
ing their trains, and in pounding the meat for pem-
mican. The arrangements being completed, we
purposed commencing our journey next morning, but
the weather was too stormy to admit of our venturing
upon the lake with the canoes. In the afternoon a
heavy fall of snow took place, which was succeeded by
sleet and rain. The north-east gale continued, but
the thermometer rose to 39^.

160

Thirty Years

June 25. — The wind having abated during the night,
we prepared for starting at an early hour. The three
canoes were mounted on sledges, and nine men were
appointed to conduct them, having the aBsista,pce of
two dogs to each canoe. The stores and provisions
were distributed equally among the rest of our men,
except a few small articles which the Indians carried.
The provision consisted of only two bags of pemmi-
can, two of pounded meat, five of suet, and two small
bundles of dried provision, together with fresh meat
sufficient for our supper at night. It was gratifying
to witness the readiness with which the men prepared
for and commenced the journey, which promised to
be so very laborious, as each of them had to drag
upwards of one hundred and eighty pounds on his
sledge.

Our course led down the main channel of the lake,
which varied in breadth from half a mile to three
miles ; but we proceeded at a slow pace, as the snow
which fell last night, and still lay on the lake, very
much impeded the sledges. Many extensive arms
branched off on the north side of this channel, and it
was bounded on the south by a chain of lofty islands.
The hills on both sides rose to the height of six hun-
dred or seven hundred feet, and high steep cliffs are
numerous. Clusters of pines were occasionally seen
in the valleys. We put up, at eight P.M., in a spot

In the Arctic Regions.

161

which afforded us but a few twigs for fuel. The party-
was much fatigued, and several of the men were af-
fected by an inflammation on the inside of the thigh,
attended with hardness and swelling. The distance
made to-day was six miles.

We started at ten next morning. The day was ex-
tremely hot, and the men were soon jaded ; their lame-
ness increased very much, and some not previously af-
fected began to complain. The dogs too shewed
symptoms of great weakness, and one of them stretch-
ed himself obstinately on the ice, and was obliged to
be released from the harness. Under these circum-
stances we wero compelled to encamp at an early hour,
having come only four miles. The sufferings of the
people in this early stage of our journey were truly
discouraging to them, and very distressing to us, whose
situation was comparatively easy. I, therefore, deter-
mined on leaving the third canoe, which had been
principally carried to provide against any accident
happening to the others. By this we gained three
men, to lighten the loads of those who were most
lame, and an additional dog for each of the other ca-
noes. It was accordingly properly secured on a stage
erected for the purpose near the encampment. Dried
meat was issued for supper, but in the course of the
evening the Indians killed two deer, which were imme-
diately sent for.

162

Thirty Years

The channel of the lake through which we had pass-
ed to-day was bounded on both sides by islands of
considerable height, presenting bold and rugged
scenery. We were informed by our guide, that a large
body of the lake lies to the northward of along island
which we passed.

Another deer was killed next morning, but as the
men breakfasted off it before they started, the addi-
tional weight was not materially felt. The burthens
of the men being considerably lightened by the ar-
rangements of last evening, the party walked at the
rate of one mile and three-quarters an hour until the
afternoon, when our pace was slackened, as the sur-
face of the ice was more rough, and our lame com-
panions felt their sores very galling. At noon we
passed a deep bay on the south side, which is said to
receive a river. Throughout the day's march the
hills on each side of the lake bore a strong resem-
blance, in height and form, to those about Fort En-
terprise. We encamped on the north main shore,
among some spruce trees, having walked eight miles
and a half. Three or four fish were caught with lines
through holes, which the water had worn in the ice.
We perceived a slight westerly current at those places.

It rained heavily during the night, and this was
succeeded by a dense fog on the morning of the 28th.
Being short of provisions we commenced our journey,

In the Arctic Regions.

163

though the points of land were not discernible beyond
a short distance The surface of the ice, being honey-
combed by the recent rains, presented innumerable
sharp points, which tore our shoes, and lacerated the
feet at every step. The poor dogs, too, marked their
path with their blood.

In the evening the atmosphere became clear, and,
at five P.M., we reached the rapid by which Point
Lake communicates with Bed- Bock Lake. This rapid
is only one hundred yards wide, and wc were much
disappointed at finding the Copper-Mine River such
an inconsiderable stream. The canoes descended the
rapid, but the cargoes were carried across the penin-
sula, and placed again on the sledges, as the next lake
was still frozen. We passed an extensive arm,
branching to the eastward, and encamped just below
it, on the western bank, among spruce pines, having
walked six miles of direct distance. The rolled stones
on the beach are principally red clay slate, hence its
Indian app'^llation, which we have retained.

We continued our journey at the usual hour next
morning. At noon the variation was observed to bo
47° east. Our attention was afterwards directed to
some pine branches, scattered on the ice, which prov-
ed to be marks placed by our hunters, to guide us to
the spot where they had deposited the carcasses of two
small deer. This supply was very seasonable, and the

164

Thirty Years

men cheerfully dragged the additional weight. Akait-
cho, judging from the appearance of the meat, thought
it had been placed here three days ago, and that the
hunters were considerably in advance. We put up at
six P.M., near the end of the lake, having come twelve
miles and three-quarters, and found the channel open
by which it is connected with the Kock-nest Lake. A
river was pointed out, bearing south from our encamp-
ment, which is said to rise near Great Marten Lake.
Eed-rock Lake is in general narrow, its shelving banks
are well clothed with wood, and even the hills, which
attain an elevation of four hundred or five hundred
feet, are ornamented, half way up, with stunted
pines.

On June 30, the men having gummed the canoes,
embarked with their burdens to descend the river ;
but we accompanied the Indians about five miles
across a neck of land, when we also embarked. The
river was about two hundred yards wide, and its
course being uninterrupted, we cherished a sanguine
hope of now getting on more speedily, until we per-
ceived that the waters of Eock-nest Lake were still
bound by ice, and that recourse must again be had
to the sledges. The ice was much decayed, and we
were exposed to great risk of breaking through in
making the traverse. In one part we had to cross an
open channel in the canoes, and in another were com-

In the Arctic Regions,

165

pelled to quit the lake, and make a portage along the
land. When the party had got upon the ice again,
our guide evinced much uncertainty as to the route.
He first directed us towards the west end of the lake ;
but when we had nearly gained that point, he discov-
ered a remarkable rock to the north-east, named by
the Indians the Rock-nest, and then recollected that
the River ran at its base. Our course was immediate-
ly changed to that direction, but the traverse we had
then to make was more dangerous than the former one.
The ice cracked under us at every step, and the party
were obliged to separate themselves widely to prevent
accidents. We landed at the first point we could ap-
proach, but having found an open channel close to the
shore, we were obliged to ferry the goods across on
pieces of ice. The fresh meat being expended, we had
to make another inroad on our pounded meat. The
evening was very warm, and the musquitoes numerous.
A large fire was made to apprise the hunters of our
advance. The scenery of Rock-nest Lake is pictu-
resque, its shores are ratiier low, except at the Rock's-
nest, and two or three eminences on the eastern side.
The only wood is the pine, which is twenty or thirty
feet higV., :*ad about one foot in diameter. Our dis-
tance to-day was six miles.

July 1. — Our guide directed us to proceed towards
a deep bay on the north side of the lake, where he

\

166

Thfrty Years

supposed we bhould find the river. In consequence of
the bad stiite of the ice, we employed all the different
modes of traveling we had previously followed in at-
taining this place ; and, in crossing a point of land,
had the misfortune to lose one of the dogs, which set
off in puisuit of some reindeer. Arriving at the bay,
we only found a stream that fell into it from the
north-east, and looked in vain for the Copper-Mine
River. This circumstance confused the guide, and he
confessed that he was new doubtful of the proper
route ; we, therefore, halted, and deRj)atched him,
with two men, to look for the river from the top of the
high hills near the Nest-rock. During this delay a
slight injury was repaired, which one of the canoes had
received. We were here amused by the interesting
8pecf.aclo of a wolf chasing two reindeer on the ice.
The pursuer being alarmed at the sight of our men,
gave up the chase when near to the hindmost, much to
our regret, for we were calculating upon the chance of
sharing in his capture.

At four P.M. our men returned, with the ag-eeable
information that they had seen the river flowing at the
base of the Rock-nest. The canoes and stores were
immediately j)laccd on the ice, and dragged thither ;
we then embarked, but soon had to cut through a bar-
rier of drift ice that blocked up the way. Wo after-
wards descended two* strong rapids, and encamped

In the Arctic Regions.

167

near to the discharge of a small stream which flows
from an adjoining lake. The Copper-Mine River, at
this point, is about two hundred yards wide^ and ten
feet deep, and flows very rapidly over a rocky bottom.
Tiic scenery of its banks is picturesque, the hills
shelve to the water-side, and are well covered with
wood, and the surface of the rocks is richly orna-
mented with lichens. The Indians say that the same
kind of country prevails as far as Mackenzie's River
in this parallel ; but that the land to the eastward is
}?crfectly barren. Akaiteho and one of the Indians
killed two deer, which were immediately sent for.
Two of the hunters arrived in the night, and wo
learned that their companions, instead of being in
advance, as we supposed, were staying at the place
where we first found the river ojien. They had only
seen our fires last evening, and had sent to examine
who we were. The circumstance of having passed
them was very vexatious, as they had three deer en
cache at their encampment. However, an Indian was
sent to desire those who remained to join us, and bring
the meat.

We embarked at nine A. M. on July 2nd, and
descended a succession of strong rapids for three
miles. We were carried along with extiaordinary
rapidity, shooting over large stones, upon which a
single stroke would have been destructive to the

168

Thirty Years

canoes ; and w^ were also iu danger of breaking them,
from the want of the long poles which lie along their
bottoms and equalize their cargoes, as they plunged
very mush, and on one occasion the first canoe was
almost filled with the waves. But there was no re-
ceding after we had once launched into the • stream,
and our safety depended on the skill and dexterity
of the bowmen and steersmen. The banks of the
river here are rocky, and the scenery beautiful ; con-
sisting of gentle elevations and dales wooded to the
edge of the stream, and flanked on both sides at the
distance of three or four miles bv a range of round-
backed barren hills, upwards of six hundred feet high.
At the foot of the rapids the high lands receded to a
greater distance, and the river flowed with a more
gentle current, in a wider channel, through a level
and open country consisting of alluvial sand. In one
place the passage was blocked up by drift ice, still
covered to some depth with snow. A channel for the
canoes was made for some way with the hatchets and
poles ; but on reaching the more compact part we
were under the necessity of transporting the canoes
and cargoes across it ; an operation of much hazard,
as the snow concealed the numerous holes which the
water had made in the ice. This expansion of the
river being mistaken by the guide for a lake, which
he spoke of as the last on our route to the sea, we

In the Arctic Begiona.

169

supposed that we should have no more ice to cross,
and therefore encamped after passing through it, for
the purpose of fitting the canoes properly for the voy-
age, and to provide poles, which are not only necessary
to strengthen them when placed in the bottom, but
essentially requisite for the safe management of them
in dangerous rapids. The guide began afterwards to
doubt whether the lake he meant was not further on,
and he was sent with two men to examine into the
fact, who returned in the evening with the informa-
tion of its being below us, but that there was an open
channel through it. This day was very sultry, several
plants appeared in flower.

The men were employed in repairing their canoes to
a late hour, and commenced very early next morning,
as we were desirous of availing ourselves of every part
of this favorable weather for their operations. The
hunters arrived in the course of the night. It ap-
peared that the dog which escaped from us two days
ago came into the vicinity jof their encampment,
howling piteously ; seeing him without his harness,
they came to the hasty conclusion that our whole
party had perished in a rapid ; and throwing away
part of their baggage, and leaving the meat behind
them, they set off with the utmost haste to join Lono"-
legs. Our messenger met them in their flight, but too

far advanced to admit of their returning for the meat

8

170

Thirty Tears

Akaitcho scolded them heartily for their thoughtless-
ness ia leaving the meat, which we so much wanted.
They expressed their regret, and being ashamed ol
their panic, proposed to remedy the evil as much as
possible by going forward, without stopping until they
came to a favorable spot for hunting, which they ex-
pected to do about thirty or forty miles below our
present encampment. Akaitcho accompanied them,
but previous to setting off he renewed his charge that
we should be on our guard against the bears, which
was occasioned by the hunters having fired at one this
morning as they were descending a rapid in their
canoe. As their small canoes would only carry five
persons, two of the hunters had to walk in turns along
the banks.

In our rambles round the encampment, we witnessed
with pleasure the progress which the vegetation had
made within the few last warm days ; most of the
trees had put forth their leaves, and several flowers
ornamented the moss-covered ground ; many of the
smaller summer birds were observed in the woods, and
a variety of ducks, gulls, and plovers, were seen on the
banks oi the river. The river is about three hundred
yards wide at this part, is deep and flows over a bed
of alluvial sand. "We caught some trout of con-
siderable size with our lines, and a few white fish in
the nets, which maintained us, with a little assistance

In the Arctic Regions.

171

from the pemmican. The repair of our canoes was
completed this evening. Previous to embarking I
issued an order that no rapid should in future be
descended until the bowmen had examined it, and
decided upon its being safe to run. Wherever the
least danger was to be apprehended, or the crew had
to disembark for the purpose of lightening the canoe,
the ammunition, guns and instruments, were always
to be put out and carried along the bank ; that we
might be provided with the means of subsisting our-
selves, in case of any accident befalling the canoes.

At four in the morning of July 4th, we embarked
and descended a succession of very agitated rapids,
but took the precaution of landing the articles men-
tioned yesterday, wherever there appeared any hazard ;
notwithstanding all our precautions the leading canoe
struck with great force against a stone, and the bark
was split, but this injur »' was easily repaired, and we
regretted only the loss of time. At eleven we came
to an expansion of the river where the current ran
with less force, and an accumulation of drift ice had,
in consequence, barred the channel ; which the canoes
and cargoes were carried over. The ice in many places
adhered to the banks, and projected in wide ledges
several feet thick over the stream, which had hollowed
them out beneath. On one occasion, as the people
were embarking from one of these ledges, it suddenly

172

Thirty Years

gave way, and three men were precipitated into the
water, but were rescued without further damage than
a sound ducking, and the canoe fortunately (and nar-
rowly) escaped being crushed. Perceiving one of the
Indians sitting on the east bank of the river, we
landed, and having learned from him that Akaitcho
and the hunters had gone in pursuit of a herd of musk
oxen, we encamped, having come twenty-four miles
and a half.

' In the afternoon they brought us the agreeable
intelligence of their having killed eight cows, of which
four were full grown. All the party were immediately
despatched to bring in this seasonable supply. A
young cow, irritated by the firing of the hunters, ran
down to the river, and passed close to me when walk-
ing at a short distance from the tents. I fired and
wounded it, when the animal instantly turned, and
ran at me, but I avoided its fury by jumping aside
and getting upon an elevated piece of ground. In the
mean time some people came from the tents, and it
took to flight.

The musk oxen, like the bufialo, herd together in
bands, and generally frequent the barren grounds du-
ring the summer months, keeping near to the banks
of the river, but retire to the woods in winter. They
seem to be less watchful than most other wild ani-
mals, and when grazing are not difficult to approach.

Jn the Arctic Regions.

173

provided the hunters go against the wind ; when two
or three men get so aear a herd as to fire at them from
different points, these animals, instead of separating
or running away, huddle closer together, and several
are generally killed ; but if the wound is not mortal
they become enraged and dart in the most furious
manner at the hunters, who must be very dexterous
to evade them. They can defend themselves by their
powerful horns against the wolves and bears, which,
as the Indians say, they not un frequently kill.

The musk oxen feed on the same substances with
the reindeer, and the prints of the feet of these two
animals are so much alike that it requires the eye of
an experienced hunter to distinguish them. The
largest of these animals killed by us did not exceed in
weight three hundred pounds. The flesh has a
musky, disagreeable flavor, particularly when the ani-
mal is lean, which unfortunately for us, was the case
with all that were now killed by us.

During this day's march the river varied in breadth
from one hundred to two hundred feet, and except in
two open spaces, a very strong current marked a deep
descent the whole way. It flows over a bed of gravel,
of which also its immediate banks are composed.
Near to our encampment it is bounded by cliffs of fine
sand from one hundred to two hundred feet high.
Sandy plains extend on a level with the summit of

#

174

Thirty Years

these cliffs, and at the distance of six or seven miles
are terminated by ranges of hills eight hundred or one
thousand feet high. The grass on these plains affords
excellent pasturage for the musk oxen, and they gen-
erally abound here. The hunters added two more to
our stock in the course of the night. As we had now
more meat than the party could consume fresh, we de-
layed our voyage next day for the purpose of drying
it. The hunters were supplied with more ammuni-
tion and sent forward ; but Akaitcho, his brother, and
another Indian remained with us.

It may here be proper to mention, that the officers
had treated Akaitcho more distantly since our depar-
ture from Point Lake, for the purpose of shewing him
their opinion of his misconduct. The diligence in
hunting, however, which he had evinced at this place,
induced us to receive him more familiarly when he
came to the tent this evening. During our conversa-
tion he endeavored to excite suspicions in our minds
against the Hook, by saying, " I am aware that you
consider me the worst man of my nation ; but I know
the Hook to be a great rogue, and, I think, he will
disappoint you."

On the morning of the 6th we embarked, and de-
scended a series of rapids, having twice unloaded the
canoes where the water was shallow. After passing
the mouth of the Fairy Lake River the rapids ceased.

In the Arctic Begiona,

175

The main stream was then about three hundred yards
wide, and generally deep, though, in one part, the
channel was interrupted by several sandy banks, and
low alluvial islands covered with willows. It flows
between banks of sand thinly wooded, and as we ad-
vanced the barren hills approached the water's edge.

At ten we rejoined our hunters, who had killed a
deer, and halted to breakfast. We sent them forward ;
one of them, who was walking along the shore after-
wards, fired upon two brown bears, and wounded one
of them, which instantly turned and pursued him.
His companions in the canoes put ashore to his as-
sistance, but did not succeed in killing the bears,
which fled upon the reinforcement coming up.
During the delay thus occasioned we overtook them,
and they continued with us during the rest of the day.

176

Thirty Tears

CHAPTER VIII.

On the 11th we traveled nine miles to the foot of
the Copper Mountains, the day being hot. On the
12th passed on our way twelve miles. In the evening
we had the gratification of meeting Junius, who was
hastening back to inform us that they had found four
Esquimaux tents at the fall which we recognized to be
the one described by Mr. Hearne. The inmates were
asleep at the time of their arrival, but rose soon after-
wards, and then Augustus presented himself, and had
some conversation across the river. He told them the
white people had arrived, who would make them very
useful presents. The information of our arrival seem-
ed to alarm them very much, but as the noise of the
rapid prevented them from hearing distinctly, one of
them came nearer to him in his canoe, and received
the rest of the message. He would not, however,
land on his side of the river, but returned to their
tents without receiving the present. His language
differed in some respects from Augustus's, but they
understood each other tolerably well. Augustus

In the Arctic Begions.

177

trusting for a supply of provision to the Esquimaux,
had neglected to carry any with him, and this was the
main cause of Junius's return. We now encamped,
having come fourteen miles. After a few hours' rest,
Junius set off again to rejoin hys companion, being ac-
companied by Hepburn, who was directed to remain
about two miles above the fall, to arrest the canoes on
their passage, lest we should too suddenly surprise thv3
Escfuimaux. About ten P.M. we were mortified by
the appearance of the Indians with Mr. Wentzel, who
had in vain endeavored to restrain them from follow-
ing us. Tie only reason assigned by Akaitcho for this
conduct was, that he wished a re-assurance of my
promise to establish peace between his nation and the
Esquimaux. I took this occasion of pointing out
again the necessity of their remaining behind, until
we had obtained the confidence and good will of their
enemies. After supper Dr. Richardson ascended a
lofty hill about three miles from the encampment, and
obtained the first view of the sea ; it appeared to be
covered with ice. A large promontory, which I nam-
ed Cape liearne, bore N.E., and its lofty mountains
proved to be the blue land we had seen in the fore-
noon, and wliich had led us to believe the sea was still
far distant. He saw the sun set a few minutes before
midnight from the same elevated situation. It did

•o'

not rise during the half hour he remained there, but

178

Thirty Years

before lie reached the encampment its rays gilded the
tops of the hills.

The night was warm and we were much annoyed by
the musquitoes. . .

June 15. — We this morning experienced as much
difficulty as before in prevailing upon the Indians to
remain behind, and they did not consent to do so until
I had assured them that they should lose the reward
which had been promised, if they proceeded any far-
ther, until we had prepared the Esquimaux to receive
them. We left a Canadian with them, and proceeded
on our journey, not without apprehension that they
would follow us, and derange our whole plan by their
obstinacy. Two of the officers and a party of the
men walked on the shore, to lighten the canoes. The
river, in this part, flows between high sand-stone clifts,
reddish slate clay rocks, and shelving banks of white
clay, and is full of shoals and dangerous rapids. One
of these was termed Escape Kapid, from both the
canoes having narrowly escaped foundering in its high
waves. We had entered the rapid before we were
aware, and the steepness of the cliffs preventing us
from landing, we were indebted to the swiftness of our
descent for our preservation. Two waves made a com-
plete breach over the canoes ; a third would in all
probability have filled and overset them, which must
have proved fatal to every one in them. The powder

In the Arctic Regions.

179

fortunately escaped the water, which was soon dis-
charged when we reached the hottom of the rapid.
At noon we perceived Hepburn lying on the left bani?
of the river, and we landed immediately to receive his
information. As he represented the water to be shoal
the whole way to the rapid, (below which the Esqui-
maux were,) the shore party were directed to continue
their march to a sandy bay at the head of the fall,
and there await the arrival of the canoes. The land
in the neighborhood of the rapid, is of the most sin-
gular form : large irregular sand hills bounding both
banks, ?. pparently so unconnected that they resemble
icebergs ; the country around them consisting of high
round green hills. The river became wide in this part
and full of shoals, but we had no difficulty in finding
a channel through them. On regaining the shore
party, we regretted to find that some ox the men had
incautiously appeared on the tops of the hills, just at
the time Augustus was conversing with one of the
Esquimaux, who had approached in his canoe, and
was almost persuaded to land. The unfortunate ap-
pearance of so many people at this instant, revived
his fears, and he crossed over to the eastern bank of
the river, and fled with the whole of his party. We
learned from Augustus that this party, consisting of
four men and as many women, had manifested a
friendly disposition. Two of the men were very tall.

180

Thirty Years

The man who first camo to speak to him, inquired the
number of canoes that wo had with us, expressed him-
self to bo not displeased at our arrival, and desired
him to caution us not to attempt running the rapid,
but to make the portage on the west side of the river.
Notwithstanding this appearance of confidence and
satisfaction, it seems they did not consider their situa-
tion to be free from danger, as they retreated the first
night to an island somewhat farther down the river,
and in the morning they returned and threw down
their lodges, as if to give notice to any of their na-
tion that might arrive, that there was an enemy in the
neighborhood. From seeing all their property strewed
about, and ten of their dogs left, we entertained the
hope that these poor people would return after their
first uliirm had subsided ; and therefore I determined
on remaining until the next day, in the expectation of
seeing them, as I considered the opening of an early
communication to bo a matter of the greatest impor-
tance in our state of absolute ignorance respecting the
sea coast. The canoes and cargoes were carried across
the portage, and we encamped on the north side of it.
We sont Augustus and Junius across the river to look
for the runaways, but their search was fruitless.
They put a few ])iece8 of iron and trinkets in their
canoes, which were lying on the beach. We also sent
some men to put up the stages of fish, and secure

In the Arctic Regions.

181

them aa much as poaaiblo from the attacks of the dogs.
Uuder the covering of their tents were observed some
utono kettles and hatchets, a few fish spears made of
copper, two small bits of iron, a quantity of skins,
and some dried salmon, which was covered with mag-
gots, and half putrid. The entrails of the fish were
spread out to dry. A great many skins of small birds
were hung up to a stage, and even two mice were pre-
served in the same way. Thus it would appear that
the necessities of these poor people induce them to
preserve every articl(3 tliat can be possibly used as food.
Several human skulls, which bore the marks of vio-
lence, and many bones wero-strewed about the ground
near to the encampment, and as tlie spot exactly an-
swers the description given by Mr. llearne, of the
place where the Cliipewyans who accompanied him
perpetrated the dreadful massacre on the Esquimaux,
we had no doubt of this being the place, notwithstand-
ing the diffcrenco in its position as to latitude and
longitude given by him, and ascertained by our ob-
servation. We have, therefore, preserved the ajjpel-
lation of Bloody Fall, which he bestowed upon it.
This rapid is a sort of shelving cascade, about three
hundred yards in length, having a descent of from ten
to fifte n feet. It is bounded on each side by high
wails of red snnd stone, upon which rests a series of
lofty green hills. On its north side^ close to the east

182

Thirty Years

bank, is the low rocky island which the Esquimaux
deserted. We caught forty excellent fish of the sal-
mon and white fish species in a single net below the
rapid. We had not seen any trees during this day's
journey ; our fuel consisted of small willows and
pieces of dried wood that were picked up near to the
encampment. The ground is well clothed with grass,
and nourishes most of the shrubs and berry-bearing
plants that we have seen north of Fort Enterprize ;
and the country altogether has a richer appearance
than the barren lands of the Copper Indians. We
had a distinct view of the sea from the summit of a
hill behind the tents ; it appeared choked with ice
and full of islands. *

On the morning of the 16th three men were sent up
the river to search for dried wood to make floats for
the nets. Adam, the interpreter, was also despatched
with a Canadian to inform Akaitcho of the flight of
the Esquimau-i. We were preparing to go down to
the sea in one of the canoes, leaving Mr. Back to await
the return of the men who were absent ; but just as
the crew were putting the canoe in the water, Adam
arrived in the utmost consternation, and informed us
that a party of Esquimaux were pursuing the men
whom he had sent to collect floats. The orders for
embarking were instantly countermanded, and we
went with a party of men to their rescue. We soon

■4f

In the Artie Regions.

183

met our people returning at a slow pace, and learned
that they had come unawares upon the Esquimaux
party, which consisted of six men, with their women
and children, who were traveling towards the rapid
with a considerable number of dogs carrying their
baggage. The women hid themselves on the first
alarm, but the men advanced, and stopping at some
distance from our men, began to dance in a circle,
tossing up their hands in the air, and accompanying
their motions with much shouting, to signify, I con-
ceive, their desire of peace. Our men saluted them
by pulling off their hats, and making bows, but
neither party was willing to approach the other ; and,
at length, the Esquimaux retired to the hill, from
whence they had descended when first seen. We
proceeded in the hope of gaining an interview with
them, but lest our appearance in a body should alarm
them, we advanced in a long line, at the head of
which was Augustus. We were led to their baggage,
which they had deserted, by the howling of the dogs ;
and on the summit of the hill we found, lying behind
a stone, an old man, who was too infirm to effect his
escape with the rest. He was much terrified when
Augustus advanced, and probably expected immediate
death ; but that the fatal blow might not be unre-
venged, he seized his spear, and made a thrust with it
at his supposed enemy. Augustus, however, easily

184

Thirty Years

n'prosscd his focMo ciTort, niul soon calmoil hin fours
by prcacnting him with Homo pieces of iron, nnd
nsfmring him of his friendly intentions. Dr. Richard-
eon ftnd I then joined them, nnd, after receiving our
presents, tho old mnn was quite composed, antl he-
*cftmc communieutive. His dialect difi'iM-ed from that
used by Augustus, but they understood each other
tolerably well.

It appeannl that his party consisted of eight men
nnd their families, who were returning from a hunting
excursion with dried meat. After being told who we
wen% he said, that he had heard of wliile j)eoj)le from
ditVen^nt i>artiea of his nation which n\sided on the sea-
coast to the eastward ; and to our inquiries respecting
the provision nnd fuel wo might expect to get on our
voyage, he informed us that the reindeer frequent tlie
coast during summer, the fish are plentiful at tlie
mouths of tlic rivers, the seals arc abundant, but there
are no sea-ht>rse8 nor whales, although he remember-
ed one of the latter, which had been killed by some
distant tribe, having been driven on shore on his
part of the coast by a gale of wind ; that musk oxon
wen* to \}o found a little distance up tho rivers, and
that we should find drift wood ilong the shore. He
had no knowledge of the coast to the eastwanl beyonil
the next river, which he called Nappa-arktok-towock,
or Tree River. The old man, contrary to the Indian

In the Arctic Hcgions,

185

pmctico, asked each of our mimes ; and, in reply to ft
similnr question on our part, said his was Tcrrcgan-
iioDUck, or tlio White Fox ; and that his tribe denomi-
nated themselves Nagge-ook-tor-ma»oot, or Deer Horn
Esquimaux. They usually frequent the Bloody Fall
during this and the following moons, for tho purpose
of salting salmoh, and then retire to a river which
flows into tho sea, a short way to tho westward, (since
denominated Richardson's lliver,) and pass the win-
ter in snow-h()uso8.

After this conversation, Terregannocuck proposed
going down to his baggage, and we then perceived ho
was too infirm to walk without the assistance of sticks.
Augustus, therefore, oflered him his arm, which ho
readily accepted, and, on reaching his store, ho distri-
buted pieces of dried meat to each person, which,
though highly tainted, wore immediately eaten ; this
being an universal token .imong the Indians of peace-
able intcQtion.

We then informed him of our desire to procure as
much me.'it as we possibly could, and ho told us that
he had a large qiiantity concealed in the neighborhood,
wliiili he would cause to be carried to us when his
people returned.

I now communicated to him that we were accora-
])!inied by some Copper Indians, who were very desi-
rous to make peace with his nation, and that they

186

Thirty Years

had requested me to prevail upon the Esquimaux to
receive them in a friendly manner ; to which he re-
plied, he should rejoice to see an end put to the hos-
tility that existed between the nations, and, therefore,
would most gladly welcome our companions. Having
despatched Adam to inform Akaitcho of this circum-
stance, we left Terragannoeuck, in the hope that his
party would rejoin him ; \>\ii as we had doubts whe-
ther the young men would venture upon coming to
our tents, on the old man's bare representation, wo
sent Augustus and Junius back in the evening, to re-
main with him until they came, that they might fully
detail to them our intentions. >, v

The countenance of Terregannoeuck was oval, with
a sufficiently prominent nose, and had nothing very
different from an European face, except in the small-
ness of his eyes, and, perhaps, in the narrowness of
his forehead. His complexion was very fresh and red,
and he had a longer beard than I have hitherto seen
on any of the Aboriginal inhabitants of America. It
was between two and three inches long, and perfectly
white. His face was not tattoed. His dress consisted
of a shirt, or jacket with a hood, wide breeches, reach-
ing only to the knee, and tight leggins sewed to the
shoes, all of deers' skins. The soles of the shoes were
made of seal-skin, and stuffed with feathers instead of
socks. He was bent with age, but appeared about

),

In the Arctic Regions.

187

five feet ten inches high. His hands and feet were
small in proportion to his height. Whenever Terre-
gannoeuck received a present, he placed each article
first on his right shoulder, then on his left ; and when
he wished to express still higher satisfaction, he rub-
bed it over his head. He held hatchets, and other
iron instruments, in the highest esteem. On seeing
his countenance in a glass for the first time, he ex-
claimed, " I shall never kill deer more," and immedi-
ately put the mirror down. The tribe to which he
belongs repair to the sea in spring, and kill seals ; as
the season advances they hunt deer and musk oxen
at some distance from the coast. Their weapon is
the bow and arrow, and they get sufficiently near to
the deer, either by crawling, or leading these animals
by ranges of turf towards a spot where the archer can
conceal himself. Their bows are formed of three
pieces of fir, the centre piece alone bent, the other
two lying in the same straight line with the bow-
string ; the pieces are neatly tied together with sinew.
Their canoes are similar to those we saw in Hudson's
Straits, but smaller. They get fish constantly in the
rivers, and in the sea as soon as the ice breaks up.
This tribe does not make use of nets, but they are
tolerably successful with the hook and line. Their
cooking utensils are made of pot-stone, and the^ form
very neat dishes of fir, the sides being made of thin

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188

Thirty Years

deal bent into an oval form, secured at the ends by
sewing, and fitted so nicely to the bottom as to be
perfectly water tight. They have also large spoons
made of the horns of the musk oxen.

Akaitcho and the Indians arrived at our tents in the
evening, and we learned that they had seen the Esqui-
maux the day before, and endeavored, without success,
to open a communication with them. They exhibited
no hostile intention, but were afraid to come near.
Akaitcho keeping out of their sight, followed them at
a distance, expecting that ultimately finding them-
selves enclosed between our party and his, they would
be compelled to come to a parley with one of us.
Akaitcho had seen Terregannoeuck soon after our de-
parture ; he was much terrified at«their approach, and
thrust his spear at Akaitcho as he had done at Au-
gustus ; but he was soon reconciled after the demon-
strations of kindness the Indians made, in cutting off
the buttons from their dress to present to him.

July 17. — We waited all this forenoon in momentary
expectation of the return of Augustus and Junius, but
as they did not appear at two P.M., I sent Mr. Hood,
with a party of men, to inquire into the cause of their
detention, and to bring the meat which Terregan-
noeuck had promised us. He returned at midnight
with the information, that none of the Esquimaux
had yet ventured to come near Terregannoeuck except

In the Arctic Eegions.

189

his aged wife, who had concealed herself among the
rocks at our first interview ; and she told him the rest
of the party had gone to a river, a short distance to
the westward, where there was another party of
Esquimaux fishing. Augustus and Junius had erected
the tent, and done every thing in their power to make
the old man comfortable in their absence. Terre-
gannoeuck being unable to walk to the place where
the meat was concealed, readily pointed the spot out
to Mr. Hood, who went thither ; but after ex-
periencing much difficulty in getting at the column of
rock on which it was deposited, he found the meat too
putrid for our use. The features of Terregannoeuck's
wife were remarkable for roundness and flatness ; her
face was much tattoed, her dress differed little from
the old man's.

In the afternoon a party of nine Esquimaux ap-
peared on the east bank of the river, about a mile
below our encampment, carrying their canoes and bag-
gage on their backs ; but they turned and fled as soon
as they perceived our tents. The appearance of so
many different bands of Esquimaux terrified the Indians
to such a degree, that they determined on leaving us
the next day, lest they should be surrounded, and
their retreat cut off". I endeavored, by the off'er of
any remuneration they would choose, to prevail upon
one or two of the hunters to proceed, but in vain ; and

190

Thirty Years

I had much difficulty even in obtaining their promise
to wait at the Copper Mountains for Mr. Wentzel and
the four men, whom I intended to discharge at the
sea.

The fears which our interpreters, St. Germain and
Adam, entertained respecting the voyag:e, were now
greatly increased, and both of them came this evening
to request their discharges, urging that their services
could be no longer requisite, as the Indians were going
from us. St. Germain even said that he had under-
stood he was only engaged to accompany us as long as
the Indians did, and persisted in this falsehood until
his agreement to go with us throughout the voyage
had been twice read to him. As these were the only
two of the party on whose skill in hunting we could
rely, I was unable to listen for a moment to their de-
sire of quitting us, and lest they should leave us by
stealth, their motions were strictly watched. This
was not an unnecessary precaution, as I was informed
that they had actually laid a plan tor eloping ; but the
rest of the men knowing that their own safety would
have been compromised had they succeeded, kept a
watchful eye over them. We knew that the dread of
the Esquimaux would prevent these men from leaving
us as soon as the Indians were at a distance, and we
trusted to their becoming reconciled to the joui-noy
when once the novelty of a sea voyage had worn off.

In the Arctic Regions.

191

July 18.— As the Indians persevered in their deter-
mination of setting out this morning, I reminded them
through Mr. Wentzel and St. Germain, of the neces-
sity of our having the deposit of provision made at
Fort Enterprize, and received a renewed assurance of
their attending to that point. They were also desired
to put as much meat as they could en cache on the
banks of the Copper-Mine River on their return. We
then furnished them with as much ammunition as we
could spare, and they took their departure, promising
to wait three days for Mr. Wentzel at the Copper
Mountains. We afterwards learned that their fears
did not permit them to do so, and that Mr. Wentzel
did not rejoin them until they were a day's march to
the southward of the mountains.

We embarked at five A.M. and proceeded towards
the sea, which is about nine mile distant from the
Bloody Fall. After passing a few rapids, the river
became wider, and more navigable for canoes, flowing
between banks of alluvial sand. We encamped at
ten on the western bank at its junction with the sea.
The river is here about a mile wide, but very shallow,
being barred nearly across hj sand banks, which run
out from the main land on each side to a low alluvial
island that lies in the centre, and forms two channels ;
of these the westermost only is navigable even for ca-
noes, the other being obstructed by a stony bar. The

192

Thirty Years

islands to seaward are high and numerousy and fill the
horizon in many points of the compass ; the only open
space, seen from an eminence near the encampment,
being from N.bE. to N.E.bN. Towards the east the
land was like a chain of islands, the ice surrounded
the islands apparently in a compact body, leaving a
channel between its edge and the main of about three
miles. The water in this channel was of a clear green
color, and decidedly salt. Mr. Hearne could have
only tasted it at the mouth of the river, when he pro-
nounced it to be merely brackish. A rise and fall of
four inches in the water was observed. The shore is
strewed with a considerable quantity of drift timber,
which is principally of the wood of the populus hal-
samifera, but none of it of great size. We also pick-
ed up some decayed wood far out of the reach of the
water. A few stunted willows were growing near the
encampment. Some ducks, gulls, and partridges were
seen to-day. As I had to make up despatches for
England to be sent by Mr. Wentzel, the nets were
set in the interim, and we were rejoiced to find that
they produced a sufficiency offish to supply the party.
The fish caught were, the Copper-Mine Kiver salmon,
white fish, and two species of pleuronectes. We felt
a considerable change of temperature on reaching the
sea-coast, produced by the winds changing from the
southward to the N. W. Our Canadian voyagers com-

In the Arctic Regions.

193

plained much of the cold, but they were amused with
their first view of the sea, and particularly with the
sight of the seals that were swimming about near the
entrance of the river, but these sensations gave place
to despondency before the evening had elapsed. They •
were terri^ed at the idea of a voyage through an icy
sea in bark canoes. They speculated on the length
of the journey, the roughness of the sea, the uncer-
tainty of provisions, the exposure to cold where we
could expect no fuel, and the prospect of having to
traverse the barren grounds to get to some establish-
ment. The two interpreters expressed their appre-
hensions with the least disguise, and again urgently
applied to be discharged j but only one of the Cana-
dians made a similar request. Judging that the con- 1
stant occupation of their time as soon as we were ena-
bled to commence the voyage, would prevent them
from conjuring up so many causes of fear, and that
familiarity with the scenes on the coast, would in a
short time enable them to give scope to their natural
cheerfulness, the officers endeavored to ridicule their
fears, and happily succeeded for the present. The
manner in which our faithful Hepburn viewed the ele-
ment that he had been so long accustomed to, con-
tributed not a little to make them ashamed of their
fears.
On the morning of the 19thj Dr. Richardson, accom-

19^

Thmy Years "

panied by Augustus, paid another visit to Terregan-
noeuck, to see if he could obtain any additional infor-
mation respecting the country to the eastward ; but
he was disappointed at finding that his affrighted fami-
ly had not yet rejoined him, and the old man could
add nothing to his former communication. The Doc-
tor remarked that Terregannoeuck had a great dislike
to mentioning the name of the Copper-Mine Eiver,
and that he evaded the question with much dexte;-ity
as often as it was put to him ; but that he willlugly
told the name of a river to the eastward, and also of
his tribe. He attempted to persuade Augustus to re-
main with him, and offered him one of his daughters
for a wife. These Esquimaux strike fire with two
stones, catching the sparks in the down of the catkins
of a willow. : '

The despatches being finished were delivered this
evening to Mr. Wentzel, who parted from us at eight
P. M. with Parent, Gagnier, Dumas, and Forcier,
Canadians, whom I had discharged for tbe purpose of
reducing our expenditure of provisions as much as
possible. The remainder of the party, including
officers, amounted to twenty persons. I made Mr.
Wentzel acquainted with the probable course of our
future proceedings, and mentioned to him that if we
were far distant from this river, when the season or
other circumstances rendered it necessary to put a stop

In the Arctic Regions,

195

to our advance, we should, in all probability, be
unable to return to it, and should have to travel
across the barren grounds towards some established
post ; in which case I told him that we should cer-
tainly go first to Fort Enterprize, expecting that he
would cause the Indians to place a supply of dried
provision there, as soon as possible after their arrival
in its vicinity. My instructions to him were, that he
should proceed to Point Lake, transport the canoe that
was left there to Fort Enterprize, where he was to
embark the instruments and books, and carry them to
Slave Lake, and to forward the box containing the
journals, &c., with the present despatches by the next
winter packet to England. But before he quitted
Fort Enterprize, he was to be assured of the intention
of the Indians to lay up the provision we required,
and if they should be in want of ammunition for that
purpose, to procure it if possible from Fort Providence,
or the other forts in Slave Lake, and send it imme-
diately to them by the hunters who accompanied him
thither. I also requested him to ascertain from
Akaitcho and the other leading Indians, where their
different parties would be hunting in the months of
September and October, and to leave this information
in a letter at Fort Enterprize, for our guidance in
finding them, as we should require their assistance.
Mr. Wentzel was furnished with a list of the stores

196

Thirty Years

that had been promised to Akaitcho and his party as
a remuneration for their services, as well as with an
official request to the North-West Company that
these goods might be paid to them on their next visit
to Fort Providence, which they expected to make in
the latter part of November. I desired him to men-
tion this circumstance to the Indians as an encourage-
ment to their exertion in our behalf, and to promise
them an additional reward for the supply of provision
they should collect at Fort Enterprize.

If Mr. Wentzel met the Hook, or any of his party,
he was instructed to assure them that he was provided
with the necessary documents to get them payment
for any meat they should put en cache for our use ;
and to acquaint them, that we fully relied on their
fulfilling every part of the agreement they had made
with us. Whenever the Indians, whom he was to
join at the Copper Mountains, killed any animals on
their way to Fort Enterprize, he was requested to put
en cacha whatever meat could be spared, placing con-
spicuous marks to guide us to them ; and I par-
ticularly begged he would employ them in hunting
in our service, immediately after his arrival at the
house.

When Mr. Wentzel's party had been supplied with
ammunition, our remaining stock consisted of one
thoueand balls, and a little more than the requisite

In the Arctic Rcgiona,

197

proportion of powder. A bag of small shot was miss-
ing, and wo afterwards discovered that the Oanudians
had secreted and distributed it among themselves, in
order that when provision should become scarce, they
might privately procure ducks and geese, and avoid
the necessity of sharing them with the officers.

t
198

Tliirty Years

CHAPTER IX.

3n\y'2\. ^^ intended to have embarked early this morn-
ing, and to have launched upon an element, which
was more congenial with our habits than the fresh-
water navigations, and their numerous difficulties and
impediments we had hitherto encountered, but which
was altogether new to our Canadian voyagers. We
were detained, however, by a strong north-east gale,
which continued the whole day, with constant thunder
showers ; the more provoking as our nets procured
but few fish, and we had to draw upon our store of
dried meat ; which, with other provision for the jour-
ney, amounted only to fifteen days' consumption.
Indeed, we should have preferred going dinnerless to
bed rather than encroach on our small stock, had wo
not been desirous of satisfying the appetites, and
cheering the spirits of our Canadian companions at
the commencement of our voyage. These thoughtless
people would, Ht any time, incur the hazard of abso-
lute starvation, at a future period, for the present
gratification of their appetites ; to indulge which they

In the Arctic Itcgiona.

199

do not hesitate, as wo more than once experienced,
helping themselves secretly ; it being, in their opinion,
no disgrace to be caught in the act of pilfering food.

Our only luxury now was a little salt, which had
long been our substitute both for bread and vegetables.
Since our departure from Point Lake we had boiled
the Indian tea plant, ledum palustrc, which produced
a beverage in smell much rcbembling rhubarb ; not-
withstanding which we found it refreshing, and wero
gratified to see this plant flourishing abundantly,
though of dwarfish growth, on the sea-shore.

July 21. — The wind, which had blown strong
through the night, became moderate in the morning,
but a dense fog prevented us from embarking until
noon, when wo commenced our voyage on the Hyper-
borean Sea. Soon afterwards we landed on an island
where the Esquimaux had erected a stage of drift
timber, and stored up many of their fishing imple-
ments and winter sledges, together with a great many
dressed seal, musk ox, and deer skins. Their spears
headed with bone, and many small articles of the
same material, were worked wiih extreme neatness, as
well as their wooden dishes, and cooking utensils of
stone ; and several articles very elegantly formed of
bone, were evidently intended for some gOtme, but
Augustus was unacquainted with their use. We took
from this deposit four seal- skins to repair our shoes,

200

Thirty Years

and left in exchange a copper-kettle, and somb awls
and beads.

We paddled all day along the coa&t to the east-
ward, on the inside of a crowded range of islands, and
saw very little ice ; the " blink" of it, however, was
visible to the northward, and one small iceberg was
seen at a distance. A tide was distinguishable among
the islands by the foam floating on the water, but we
could not ascertain its direction. In the afternoon
St. Germain killed, on an island, a fat deer, which
was a great acquisition to us ; it was the first wo had
seen for some months in good condition.

Having encamped on the main shore, after a run of ^
thirty-seven miles, we set up a polo to ascertain tho
rise and fall of the water, which was repeated at every
halting-place, and Hepburn was ordered to attend to
the result. We found the coast well covered with
vegetation, of moderate height, even in its outline,
and easy of approach. The islands are rocky and bar-
ren, presenting high cliffs of a columnar structure. I
have named the westernmost group of those we pass-
ed " Berens' Isles," in honor of the Governor of tho
Hudson's Bay Company ; and the easternmost, " Sir
Graham Moore's Islands." At the spot where we
landed, some muscle- shells and a single piece of sea-
weed lay on the beach ; this was the only spot on
the coast where we saw shells. We were rejoiced to

In the Arctic Regions.

201

find the beach strewed with abundance of small drifts
wood, none of it recent.

It may be remarked that the Copper-Mine River
does not bring down any drift-wood ; nor does any
other known stream, except Mackenzie's River ; hence,
from its appearance on this part of the coast, an east-
erly current may be inferred. This evening we were
all in high glee at the progress we had made ; the
disappearance of the ice, and the continuance of the
land in an eastern direction, and our future prospects
formed an enlivening subject of conversation. The
thermometer varied during the day between 43° and
45°. The fishing nets were set, but produced nothing.

On the 22d we embarked at four A.M., and having
the benefit of a light breeze continued our voyage
along the coast, under sail, until eleven, when we halt-
ed to breakfast, and to obtain the latitude. The coast
up to this point presented the same general appear-
ance as yesterday, namely, a gravelly or sandy beach,
skirted by green plains ; but as we proceeded, tho
shore became exceedingly rocky and sterile ; and, at
last, projecting considerably to the northward, it form-
ed a high and steep promontory. Some ice had drift-
ed down upon this capo, which wo feared might check
our progress ; but, as the evening was fine, we ven-
tured upon pushing tho canoes through the small
channels formed among it. After pursuing this kind

9«

m

202

Thirty Years

of navigation, with some danger and more anxiety, we
landed and encamped on a smooth rocky point ; from
whence we perceived, with muctf^atisfaction, that the
ice consisted only of detached pieces, which would be
removed by the first breeze. We sounded in seven-
teen fathoms, close to the shore, this day. The least
depth ascertained by the lead, since our departure
from the river, was six fathoms ; and it may be remark-
ed, that any ship might pass safely between the
islands and the main. The water is of a light green
color, but not very clear ; and it is much less salt than
that of the Atlantic, judging from our recollection of
its taste. In the course of the day we saw geese and
ducks with their young, and two deer ; and experien-
ced very great variations of temperature, from the
light breezes blowing alternately from the ice and the
land. The name of " Lawford's Islands" was bestow-
ed on a group we passed in the course of the day, as a
mark of my respect for Vice- Admiral Lawford, under
whose auspices I first entered the naval service.

A fresh breeze blowing through the night had
driven the ice from the land, and opened a channel of
a mile in width ; we therefore embarked at nine A.M.
to pursue our journey along the coast, but at the dis-
tance of nine miles were obliged to seek shelter in
Port Epworth, the wind having become adverse, and
too strong to admit of our proceeding. The Tree

m

In the Arctic Hegtons.

203

Eivor of the EHquimaux, which discharges its waters
into this bay, appears to bo narrow, and much inter-
rupted by rapids. The fishing-nets were set, but they
obtained only one white fish and a few bull-heads.
This part of the coast is the most sterile and inhospi-
table that can be imagined. One trap cliff succeeds
another with a tiresome uniformity, and their debris
cover the narrow valleys that intervene, to the exclu-
sion of every kind of herbage. From the summit of
these cliffa the ice appeared in every direction.

The wind abating, at eight P.M. we re-embarked,
and soon afterwards discovered, on an island, a rein-
deer, which the interpreters fortunately killed. Re-
suming our voyage we were much impeded by the ice,
and, at length, being unable to force a passage through
a close stream that had collected round a cape, we
put ashore at four A.M. On the 24th, several stone
fox-traps, and other traces of the Esquimaux, were
seen near to the encampment. The horizontal refrac-
tion varied so much this morning, that the upper
limb of the sun twice appeared at the horizon before
it finally rose.

For the last two days the water rose and fell about
nine inches. The tides, however, seemed to be very
irregular, and we could not determine the direction of
the ebb or flood. A current setting to the eastward
was running about two miles an hour during our stay.

204

Thirty Years

The ice having removed a short distance from the
shore, by eleven A.M. we embarked, and with some
difficulty effected a passage ; then making a traverse
across Gray's Bay, we paddled up under the eastern
shore against a strong wind. The interpreters landed
here, and went in pursuit of a deer, but had no suc-
cess. This part of the coast is indented by deep bays,
which are separated by peninsulas formed like wedges,
slopino' many miles into the sea, and joined by low
land to the main ; so that often mistaking them for
islands, we were led by a circuitous route round the
bays. Cliffs were numerous on the islands, which
were all of the trap formation.

At seven, a thunder-storm coming on, we encamped
at the mouth of a river about eighty yards wide, and
set four nets. This stream, which has received the
name of Wentzel, after our late companion, discharges
a considerable body of water. Its banks are sandy
and clothed with herbage. The Esquimaux had re-
cently piled up some drift timber here. A few ducks,
ravens, and snow birds, were seen to-day. The dis-
tance we made was thirty-one miles.

July 25. — We had constant rain with thunder dur-
ing the night. The nets furnished only three salmon-
trout. We attributed the want of greater success to
the entrance of some seals into the mouth of the river.
Embarking at six A.M., we paddled against a cold

In the Arctic Begions.

205

breeze, until the spreading of a thick fog caused us to
land. The rocks here consisted of a beautiful mixture
of red and gray granite, traversed from north to south
by veins of red felspar, which were crossed in various
directions by smaller veins filled with the same sub-
stance.

At noon the wind coming from a favorable quarter
tempted us to proceed, although the fog was unabated.
We kept as close as we could to the main shore, but
having to cross some bays, it became a matter of
doubt whether we had not left the main, and were
running along an island. Just as we were endeavor-
ing to double a bold cape, the fog partially cleared
away, and allowed us an imperfect view of a chain of
islands on the outside, and of much heavy ice which
was pressing down upon us. The shore near us was
so steep and rugged that no landing of the cargoes
could be effected, and we were preserved only by some
men jumping on the rocks, and thrusting the ice off
with poles. There was no alternative but to continue
along this dreary shore, seeking a channel between the
different masses of ice which had accumulated at the
various points. In this operation both the canoes
were in imminent danger of being crushed by the ice,
which was now tossed about by the waves that the
gale had excited. We effected a passage, however,
and keeping close to the shore, landed at the entrance

206

Thirty Tears

of Detention Harbor at nine P. M., having come
twenty-eight miles. An old Esquimaux encampment
was traced on this spot ; and an ice chisel, a copper
knife, and a small iron knife were found under the
turf. I have named this cape after Mr. Barrow of the
Admiralty, to whose exertions are mainly owing the
discoveries that have recently been made in Arctic
geography. An opening on its eastern side has re-
ceived the appellation of Inman Harbor, after my
friend the Professor at the Royal Naval College,
Portsmouth ; and to a group of islands to seaward of
it, we gave the name of Jameson, in honor of the dis-
tinguished Professor of Mineralogy at Edinburgh.

We had much wind and rain during the night, and
by the morning of the 26th a great deal of ice had
drifted into the inlet. We embarked at four and at-
tempted to force a passage, when the first canoe got
enclosed, and remained for some time in a very peril-
ous situation ; the pieces of ice, crowded together by
the action of the current and wind, pressing strongly
against its feeble sides. A partial opening, however,
occurring, we landed without having sustained any
serious injury. Two men were then sent round the
bay, and it was ascertained that instead of having
entered a narrow passage between an island and the
main, we were at the mouth of a harbor, having an
island at its entrance ; and that it was necessary to

In the Arctic Regions.

207

return by the way we came, and get round a point to
the northward. This was, however, impracticable,
the channel being blocked up by drift ice ; and we
had no prospect of release except by a change of wind.
This detention was extremely vexatious, as we were
losing the benefit of a fair wind, and expending our
stock of provision. In the afternoon the weather
cleared up, and several men went hunting, but they
were unsuccessful. During the day the ice floated
backwards and forwards in the harbor, moved by cur-
rents, not regular enough to deserve the name of tide,
and which appeared to be governed by the wind. We
perceived great diminution by melting in the pieces
near us. That none of this ice survives the summer
is evident, from the rapidity of its decay ; and because
no ice of last year's formation was hanging on the
rocks. Whether any body of it exists at a distance
from the shore, w^ cannot determine.

The land around Cape Barrow, and to Detention
Harbor, consists of steep craggy mountains of granite
rising so abruptly from the water's edge, as to admit
of few landing places even for a canoe. The higher
parts attain an elevation of one thousand four hundred
or one thousand five hundred feet ; and the whole is
entirely destitute of vegetation.

On the morning of the 27th the ice remained
stationary at the entrance ; we went to the bottom of

2(^8

Thirty Ycai'S

tho harbor, and carried tlio canoes and cargoes about
a mile and a half across the point of land that forms
tho east side of it ; but the ice was not more favor-
able there for our advancement than at the place wo
had left. It consisted of small pieces closely packed
together by the wind extending along tho shore, but
leaving a clear passage beyond the chain of islands
with which tho whole of this coast is girt. Indeed,
when we started we had Uttle hope of finding a pas-
sage ; and the principal object in moving was, to em-
ploy the men, in order to prevent their reflecting upon
and discussing tho dangers of our situation, which wo
knew they wore too apt to do when leisure jjermitted.
Our observations place the entrance of Detention
Harbor in latitude 67° 53' 45", longitude 110° 41'
20" W., variation 40«^ 49' 34" E. It is a secure
anchorage, being sheltered from tho wind in every di-
rection ; the bottom is sandy.

July 28. — As the ice continued in tho same state,
several of the men were sent out to hunt ; and one of
them fired no less than four times at deer, but un-
fortunately without -success. It was satisfactory,
however, to ascerti§h that the country was not desti-
tute of animals. We had the mortification to dis-
cover that two of the bags of pemmican, which was
our principal reliance, had become mouldy by wet.
Our beef, too, had been so badly cured, as to bo

In the Arctic Regions.

209

scarcely eatable ; this was occasioned by our having
been compelled, through haste, to dry it by fire instead
of the sun. It was not, however, the quality of our
provision that gave us uneasiness, but its diminution,
and the utter incapacity to obtain any addition. Seals
were the only animals that met our view at this place,
and these we could never approach.

Dr. Kichardson discovered near the beach a small
vein of galena, traversing gneiss rocks, and the people
collected a quantity of it in the hope of adding to our
stock of balls ; but their endeavors to smelt it, were,
as may be supposed, ineffectual. The drift timber on
this part of the coast consists of pine and tacca mahac,
(populus balsami/era) most probably from Macken-
zie's, or some other river to the eastward of the Cop-
per-Mine. It all appears to have lain long in the
water, the bark being completely worn ofi', and the %
ends of the pieces rubbed perfectly smooth. There
was a sharp frost last night, which formed a pretty
thick crust of ice in a kettle of water that stood in the
tents ; and for several nights past thin films of ice
have been formed on the salt water amongst the cakes
of stream ice.* Notwithstanding this state of tem-
perature, we were tormented by swaims of musqui-
toes ; we had persuaded ourselves that these pests
could not sustain the cold in the vicinity of the sea,

* This is termed bat/ ice by the Greenland-men.

SIO

Thirty Yeurt

but it appoftiti ihoy Imunt ovory part of this country
in dclknco of cliniiit<>. Mr. Buck nmilo m\ pxctirnion
to A liill nt wxcn or oi|];ht niilcN (iimtanoc, tind from itii
nunimtt ho perceived the ico close to the Bhoro as fUr
AS his view extended.

On the niorning of the 29th the party Attended di-
vine service. About noon the ico appearinnj h^ss com-
jmct, we emburked to ch»mgo our sitiiation, having
consumed aU the iViel within our ivach. The wind
CAn\e olV the hind just as the cnnoes had sturtcd, And
wo determined on Attempting to force a passnge along
the shot^ ; in which we fortunately succeeded, after
seven hours' labor and much hapiartl to o\ir frAil ves-
sels. The ice lay so close that the citnvs disembarked
on it> And edJected a jmsjsage by bearing against tho
pieces with their poles ; but in conducting the canoes
through tho narrow chAunels thus foruu»d, tho grcAt-
e«t OAixi WAS requisite, to prevent the sliarp projecting
[wints (mm breaking tho bark. They fortunately re-
ceived no material ii^ury, though they wero split in
two places.

At tlie distunco of three miles, we came to tne en-
trance of A deep l)Ay, whose bottom was filled by a
body of ice so com^mct as to preclude the idoA of a
l>AssAgo through it ; whilst At the same time, tho tra-
verse across it« mouth was attended with much dan-
ger, from the approach of a large field of ico, which

Tn thti Ardw tlrgwrtH,

211

WftH driving down \m[\)Xk\ tlio witul. Tlio drutul of fur-
thor doUniiion, howovor, pnivc'titod uh from hnnitiitiri^ ;
nnd wn Imd ihn HnliHfiiotion of liuidin;,; in an lionr iitid
ii Imlf on iho ojipoHito whoro, wlinro wo liiiliod to rc-
))ivir tlin oiinooM and to dino. I hnvo niuncd thin bay
nftnr my friend Mr. Dani(d Mooro of Linooln'n Inn ;
to whoHo y.oal for scionoo, the Expedition wai indebt-
ed for the use of a most valuablo olironometor. ItH
Hlioros are piotiiromino ; Rloping hills Kicoding from
the boftch, and clothed with vordiiro, bound its bot-
tom and western side ; and lofty cliffs of slato clay,
with their intervening grassy valleys, skirt its eastern
border. I'jmbarking at midnight, wo imrsucd oiir voy-
age without interruption, passing between the Stock-
port and Marcot Islands and the main, until six A.M.
on July 30th ; when having rounded Point Kater, we
entered Arctic Sound, and were again involved in a
stream of ice, but after considerable delay extricated
ourselves, and proceeded towards tho bottom of the
inlet in search of the mouth of a river, which we sup-
posed it to receive, from tho change in tho color of
tho water.

About ton A.M. wo landed, to breakfast on a small
deer which St. Germain had killed ; and sent men in
pursuit of some others in sight, but with which they
did not como up. Ro-embarking, we passed the river
without perceiving it, and entered a deep arm of tho

*»

212

Thirty Years

sound ; which I have named Baillie's Cove, in honor
of a relative of the lamented Mr. Hood. As it was
too*late to return, we encamped, and by walking across
the country, discovered the river, whose mouth being
barred by low sandy islands and banks, was not per-
ceived when we passed it. Course and distance from
Galena Point to this encampment, were S.E.|S. —
forty-one miles.

From the accounts of Black-moat and Boileau at
Fort Chipewyan, we considered this river to be the
Anatessy ; and Cape Barrow to be the projection
which they supposed to be the N.E. termination of
America. The outline of the coast, indeed, bears
some resemblanco to the chart they sketched ; and
the distance of this river from the Copper-Mine, nearly
coincides with w4at we estimated the Anatessy to be,
from their statements. In our subsequent journey,
however, across the barren grounds, we ascertained
that this conjecture was wrong, and that the Anatessy,
which is known to come from Bum Lake, must fall
into the sea to the eastward of this place.

Our stock of provision being now reduced to eight
days' consumption, it had become a matter of the first
importance to obtain a supply ; and as we had learned
from Terregannoeuck that the Esquimaux frequent
the rivers at this season, I determined on seeking a
communication with them here, with the view of ob-

In the Arctic Regions.

213

taining relief for our present wants, or even shelter for
the winter, if the season should prevent us from re-
turning cither to the Hook's party, or Fort Enterprize ;
and I was the more induced to take this step at this
time, as several deer had been seen to-day, and the
river appeared good for fishing ; which led me to hope
we might support the party during our stay, if not
add to our stock by our own exertions in hunting and
fiahing. Augustus, Junius, and Hepburn, wore there-
fore furnished with the necessary presents, and desired
to go along the bank of the river as far as they could,
on the following day, in search of the natives, to ob-
tain provision and leather, as well as information
respecting the coast.

They started at four A.M., and at the same time
our hunters were sent off in search of deer ; and the
rest of the party proceeded in the canoes to the first
cascade in the river, at the foot of which we encamped,
and set four nets. This cascade, produced by a ridge
of rocks crossing the stream, is about three or four
feet in height, and about two hundred and fifty yards
wide. Its position by our observations is latitude 67 '^
19' 23" N., longitude 109^ 44' 30" W., variation 41°
43' 22', dip 88° 58' 48". I have named this river Hood,
as a small tribute to the memory of our lamented
friend and companion. It is from three to four hun-
dred yards wide below the cascade, but it is in many

■f

•**

214

Tliirty Years

places very shallow. The banks, bottom, and adja-
cent hills, are formed of a mixture of sand and clay.
The ground was overspread with small willows and the
dwarf birch, both too diminutive for fuel ; and the
stream brought down no drift wood. We were morti-
fied to find the nets only procured one salmon and
five white fish, and that we had to make another in-
road upon our dried meat.

August 1. — At two this morning the hunters re-
turned with two small deer and a brown bear. Au-
gustus and Junius arrived at the same time, having
traced the river twelve miles further up, without dis-
covering any vestige of inhabitants. We had now
an opportunity of gratifying our curiosity respecting
the bear so much dreaded by the Indians, and of whose
strength and ferocity we had heard such terrible ac-
counts. It proved to be a lean male of a yellowish
brown color, and not longer than a common black
bear. It made a feeble attempt to defend itself, and
was easily despatched. The flesh was brought to the
tent, but our fastidious voyagers supposing, from its
leanness, the animal had been sickly, declined eating
it ; the officers, however, being less scrupulous, boiled
the paws, and found them excellent

We embarked at ten A.M., and proceeding down
the river, took on board another deer that had been
killed by Credit last evening. We then ran along

*-JK^

In the Artie Regions.

215

-;;%

the eastern shore of Arctic Sound, distinguislied by
th^ name of Bank's Peninsula, in honor of the late
Right Honorable Sir Joseph Banks, President of the
Royal Society ; and rounding Point Wollaston at its
eastern extremity, opened another extensive sheet of
water ; and the remainder of the afternoon was spent
in endeavoring to ascertain, from the tops of the hills,
whether it was another bay, or merely a passage en-
closed by a chain of islands. Appearances rather
favoring the latter opinion, we determined on proceed-
ing through it to the southward. During the delay
four more deer were killed, all young and lean. It
appears that the coast is pretty well frequented by
reindeer at this season ; but it is rather singular, that
, ' hitherto we have killed none (excepting the first) but
young ones of last season, which were all too lean to
have been eaten by any but persons who had no choice.
We paddled along the western shore with the inten-
tion of encamping, but were prevented from the want
of drift wood on the beach. This induced us to make
a traverse to an island, where we put up at midnight,
having, found a small bay, whose shores furnished us
with a little fire-wood. A heavy gale came on from
the westward, attended wiih constant rain, and one of
the squalls overthrew our tents. The course and dis-
tance made to-day were north-east sixteen miles and
a half. I may hero mention, that Arctic Sound ap-

216

Thirty Years

pears to be the most convenient, and perhaps the best,
place for ships to anchor that we have seen along the
coast ; at this season especially, when they might in-
crease their stock of provision, if provided with good
marksmen. Deer are numerous in its vicinity, musk-
oxen also may be found up Hood's Eiver, and the fine
sandy bottom of the bays promise favorably for fishing
with the seine. The hills on the '^estern side are
even in their outline and slope gradually to the water's
edge. The rocks give place to an alluvial sandy soil,
towards the bottom of the sound ; but on Banks'
Peninsula rocky eminences again prevail, which are
rugged and uneven, but they are intersected by val-
leys, now green ; along their base is a fine sandy beach.
From Point Wollaston to our present encampment the
coast is skirted with trap clifis, which have often a
columnar form, and are very difficult of access. These
clifis lie in ranges parallel to the shore, and the deer
that we killed were feeding in small marshy grassy
plats that lie in the valleys between them.

Being detained by the continuance of the gale, on
the 2d of August some men were sent out to hunt,
and the officers visited the tops of the highest hills,
to ascertain the best channels to be pursued. The
wind abating at ten P.M., we embarked and paddled
round the southern end of the island, and continued
our course to the south-east. Much doubt at this

In the Arctic Begions.

217

time prevailed as to the land on the right heing the
main shore, or merely a chain of islands. The latter
opinion was strengthened by the broken appearance
of the land, and the extensive view we had up Brown's
Channel, (named after my friend Mr. Eobert Brown,)
the mouth of which we passed, and were in some ap-
prehension of being led away from the main shore ;
and, perhaps, after passing through a group of islands,
of coming to a traverse greater than we durst venture
upon in canoes. On the other hand, the continuous
appearance of the land on the north side of the chan-
nel, and its tending to the southward, produced a fear
that we were entering a deep inlet.

In this state of doubt we landed often, and endea-
vored, from the summits of the highest hills adjoining
the shore, to ascertain the true nature of the coast, but
in vain, and we continued paddling through the chan-
nel all night against a fresh breeze, which, at half past
four, increased to a violent gale, and compelled us to
land. The gale diminished a short time after noon
on the 3d, and permitted us to re-embark and continue
oi^r voyage until four P.M., when it returned with its
former violence, and finally obliged us to encamp, hav-
ing come twenty-four miles on a south-east three-quar-
ter south course.

From the want of drift wood to make a fire we had

fasted all day, and were under the necessity, in the

10

218

Thirty Years

evening, of serving out pemmican, which was done
with much reluctance, especially as we had some fresh
deers' meat remaining. The inlet, when viewed from
a high hill adjoining to our encampment, exhibited so
many arms, that the course we ought to pursue was
more uncertain than ever. It was absolutely necessary,
however, to see the end of it before we could deter-
mine that it was not a strait. Starting at three A.M.,
on the 4th, we paddled the whole day through chan-
nels, from two to five or six miles wide, all tending to
the southward. In the course of the day's voyage we
ascertained, that the land which we had seen on our
right hand since yesterday morning, consisted of sev-
eral large islands, which have been distinguished by
the names of Goulbum, Elliot, and Young ; but the
land on our left preserved its unbroken appearance,
and when we encamped, we were still uncertain whe-
ther it was the eastern side of a deep sound or merely
a large island. It differed remarkably from the main
shore, being very rugged, rocky, and sterile, whereas
the outline of the main on the opposite side was even,
and its hills covered with a comparatively good sward
of grass, and exhibited little naked rock. There was
no drift timber, but the shores near the encampment
were strewed with small pieces of willow, which indi-
cated our vicinity to the mouth of a river. This fuel
enabled us to make a hearty supper off a small deer
killed this evening.

The

shoals <

It was

frequen

eating.

east hal

After

5 th, we

nated bj

certain,

have nar

ship for

for the ;

success 0]

had seen

tion of t

returninor

latter pro

tion ; anc

fat meat i

We em

set the ne

on the hi

flesh, whic

on the coa

during the

of fish, n

In the Arctic Begiona.

219

The shallows we passed to-day were covered with
shoals of capelin, the angmaggoeiik of the Esquimaux.
It was known to Augustus, who informed us that it
frequents the coast of Hudson's Bay, and is delicate
eating. The course and distance made was, south by
east half east, thirty-three miles.

After paddling twelve miles in the morning of tho
5th, we had the mortification to find the inlet termi-
nated by a river ; the size of which we could not as-
certain, as the entrance was blocked by shoals. I
have named this stream Back, as a mark of my friend-
ship for my associate. We were somewhat consoled
for the loss of time in exploring this inlet, by the
success of Junius in killing a musk-ox, the first we
had seen on the coast ; and afterwards by the acquisi-
tion of the flesh of a bear, that was shot as we were
returning up the eastern side in the evening. The
latter proved to be a female, in very excellent condi-
tion ; and our Canadian voyagers, whose appetite for
fat meat is insatiable, were delighted.

We encamped on the shores of a .sandy bay, and
set the nets ; and finding a quantity of dried willows
on tho beach, we were enabled to cook the bear's
flesh, which was superior to any meat we had tasted
on the coast. The water fell two feet at this place
during the night. Our nets produced a great variety
of fish, namely, a salmon- trout, some round fish,

220

Tlitrty Years

tittameg, bleak, star-fish, several herrings, and a flat
fish resembling plaice, but covered on the back with
horny excrescences.

On the 6th we were detained in the encampment by
stormy weather until five P.M., when wo embarked
and paddled along the northern shore of the inlet ;
the weather still continuing foggy, but the wind mod-
erate. Observing on the beach a she bear with three
young ones, we landed a party to attack them ; but,
being approached without due caution, they took the
alarm and scaled a precipitous rocky hill, with a
rapidity that baffled all pursuit. At eight o'clock,
the fog changing into rain, we encamped. Many
seals were seen to-day, but as they kept in deep water
we did not fire at them.

On August 7th the atmosphere was charged with
fog and rain all the day, but as the wind was moderate,
we pursued our journey ; our situation, however, was
very unpleasant, being quite wet and without room to
stretch a limb, much less to obtain warmth by exer-
cise. We passed a cove, which I have named after
my friend Mr. W. H. Tinney ; and proceeded along
the coast until five P.M., when we put up on a rocky
point nearly opposite to our encampment on the 3d,
having come twenty-three miles on a north-north-west
course.

We were detained on the 8th by a riorlnerly gale.

In the Arctic Regions,

221

whicli blew violently throughout the day, attended
by fog and rain. Some of the men went out to hunt,
but they saw no other animal than a white wolf, which
could not be approached. The fresh meat being ex-
pended, a little pemmican was served out this evening.

The gale abated on the morning of the 9 th ; and
the sea, which it had raised, having greatly subsided,
we embarked at seven A.M., and after paddling three
or four miles, opened Sir J. A. Gordon's Bay, into
which we penetrated thirteen miles, and then dis-
covered from the summit of a hill that it would be
vain to proceed in this direction, in search of a passage
out of the inlet.

Our breakfast diminished our provision to two bags
of pemmican, and a single meal of dried meat. The
men began to apprehend absolute want of food, and
we had to listen to their gloomy forebodings of the
deer entirely quitting the coast in a few days. As we
were embarking, however, a large bear was discovered
on the opposite shore, which we had the good fortune
to kill ; and the sight of this fat meat relieved their
fears for the •present. Dr. Eichardson found in the
stomach of this animal the remains of a seal, several
marmots, a large quantity of the liquorice root of
Mackenzie, which is common on these shores, and
some berries. There was also intermixed with these
substances a small quantity of grass.

222

Thirty Years

Wo got again into tho main inlut, and paddled
along its oastorn shore until forty niinntoR after eight
A.M.) when wo encamped in a small cove. Wo found
a single log of drift wood ; it was pine, and sufHuient-
ly largo to enable us to cook a portion of tho bear,
which had a slight fishy taste, but was deemed very
palatable.

Aufjfust 10. — Wo followed up the cast border of
tho inlet about twenty-four miles, and at length emer-
ged into tho open sea ; a body of islands to the west-
ward concealing tho channel by which we had entered.
Hero our progress was arrested by returning bad wea-
ther. Wo killed a bear and its young cub of this
year, on tho beach near to our encampment. Wo
heartily congratulated ourselves at having arrived at
tlio eastern entrance of this inlet, which had cost us
nine invaluable days in exploring. It contains several
Pt»cuiu harbors, especially near the mouth of Bjick's
Rive?, where there is a sandy bottom in forty fathoms.
There also fish are plentiful, and reindeer and musk-
oxen may be procured at this season, by spending a
little time in hunting. #

On tho 3d and 4th of August we observed a fall of
more than two feet in the water during the night.
There are various irregular and partial currents in the
inlet, which may bo attributed to the wind. I have
distinguished it by the name Bathurst's Inlet, in hon-

'.1^'

In the Arctic Begions,

223

or of the noblo Secretary of State, under whose orders
I had the honor to act. It runs about seventy-six
miles south-east from Cape Evcritt, but in coasting
its shores wo wont Jibout one hundred and seventy-four
geographical miles. It is remarkable that none of the
Indians with whom wo had spoken had mentioned this
inlet ; and we subsequently learned, that in their jour-
neys they strike across from the mouth of one river
to the mouth of another, without tracing the interme-
diate line of coast.

August 11. — Embarking at five A.M., we rounded
Point Everitt, and then encountered a strong breeze
and heavy swell, which by causing the canoes to pitch
very much, greatly impeded our progress. Some deer
being seen grazing in a valley near the beach, we land-
ed, and sent St. Germain and Adam in pursuit of
them, who soon killed three which were very small
and lean. Their appearance, however, quite revived
the spirits of our men, who had suspected thart the
deer had retired to the woods. It would appear, from
our not having seen any in passing along the shores of
Bathurst's Inlet, that at this season they confine them-
selves to the sea-coast and the islands. The magpie
berries (arbutus alpina) were found quite ripe at this
j>l:icc, and very abundant on the acclivities of the hills.
We also ascended the highest hill, and gained a view
of a distant chain of islands, extending as far as the

"f

224

Thirty Tears

eye could reach, and perceived a few patches of ice
still remaining near to some of them ; but in every
other part the sea was quite open. Eesuming our
voyage after noon, we proceeded along the coast, which
is fringed by islands ; and, at five P.M., entered ano-
ther bay, where we were for some time involved in our
late difficulties by the intricacy of the passages ; but
we cleared them in the afternoon, and encamped near
the northern entrance of the bay, at a spot which had
recently been visited by a small party of Esquimaux,
as the remains of some eggs, containing young, were
lying beside some half-burnt fire-wood. T?iere were
also several piles of stones put up by them. I have
named this bay after my friend. Captain Pavid Bu-
chan, of the Eoyal Navy. It appears to be a safe an-
chorage, being well sheltered from the wind and sea by
islands ; the bottom is sandy. Its shores are high,
and composed of red sand-stone, ""wo deer were seen
on its beach, but could not be approached. The dis-
tance we made to-day w^as eighteen miles and three-
quarters.

Embarking at four on the morning of the 12th, we
proceeded against a fresh piercing north-east wind,
which raised the waves to a height that quite terrified
our people, accustomed only to the navigation of rivers
and lakes. We were obliged, however, to persevere in
our advance, feeling, as we did, that the short season

)^

In the Arctic Begiona.

225

for our operations was hastening away ; but after
rounding Cape Croker the wind became so strong that
we could proceed no further. The distance we had
made being only six miles on a north-east by east
course. The shore on which we encamped is formed
of the debris of red sand-stone, and is destitute of vege-
tation. The beach furnishes no drift wood, and we
dispensed with our usual meal rather than expend
our pemmican. Several deer were seen, but the hunt-
ers could not approach them ; they killed two swans.
We observed the latitude 68° 1' 20", where we halted
to breakfast this morning.

August 13. — Though the wind was not diminished,
we were urged, by the want of fire- wood, to venture
upon proceeding. We paddled close to the shore for
some miles, and then ran before the breeze with reefed
sails, scarcely two feet in depth. Both the canoes
received much water, and one of them struck twice on
sunken rocks. At the end of eighteen miles we halted
to breakfast in a bay, which I have named after Vice-
Admiral Sir William Johnstone Hope, one of the
Lords of the Admiralty.

We found here a considerable quantity of small
willows, such as are brought down by the rivers we
have hitherto seen ; and hence we judged, that a river
discharges itself into the bottom of this bay. A pad-
dle was also found, which Augustus, on examination,

10*

#

226

Thirty Years

declared to be made after the fashion of the White
Goose Esquimaux, a tribe with whom his countrymen
had had some trading communication, as has been
mentioned in a former part of the Narrative.

This morning wo passed the embouchure of a pretty
large stream, and saw the vestiges of an Esquimaux
encampment not above a mouth old. Having obtained
the latitude 68° 6' 40" N., we recommenced our voy-
age under sail, taking the precaution to embark all the
pieces of willow we could collect, as we had found the
drift wood become more scarce as we advanced. Our
course was directed to a distant point, which we sup-
posed to be a cape, and the land stretching to the
westward of it to be islands ; but we soon found our-
selves in an extensive bay, from which no outlet could
be perceived but the one by which we had entered.
After examining, however, from the top of a hill, we
found a winding shallow passage running to the north-
west, which we followed for a short time and then en-
camped, having come twenty-three miles, north by
east half east.

Some articles left by the Esquimaux attracted our
attention ; we found a winter sledge raised upon four
stones, with some snow-shovels, and a small piece of
whalebone. An ice-chisel, a knife, and some beads,
were left at this pile. The shores of this bay, which
I have named after Sir George Warrender, are low

In the Arctic Regions.

227

and clayey, and the country for many miles is level,
and much intersected with water ; but we had not
leisure to ascertain whether they were branches of the
bay or fresh- water lakes. Some white geese were seen
this evening, and some young grey ones were caught
on the beach, being unable to fly. We fired at two
reindeer, but without success.

On August 14th we paddled the whole day along
the northern shores of the sound, returning towards
its mouth. The land which we were now tracing is
generally so flat, that it could not be described from
the canoes at the distance of four miles, and is invisi-
ble from the opposite side of the sound, otherwise a
short traverse might have saved us some days. The
few eminences that are on this side were mistaken for
islands when seen from the opposite shore ; they are
for the most part cliffs of basalt, and are not above
one hundred feet high ; the subjacent strata are of
white sand-stone. The rocks are mostly confined to
the capes and shores, the soil inland being flat, clayey,
and barren. Most of the headlands .'^hewed traces of
visits from the Esquimaux, but none of them recent.
Many ducks were seen to-day, belonging to a species
termed by the voyagers, from their cry, " caccawees."
We also sav >ome grey geese and swans. The only
seal we procu, ed during our voyage, was killed this
day ; it happened to be blind, and our men imagining

228

Thirty Years

it to be in bad health, would not taste the flesh ; we,
however, were less nice.

We encamped at the end of twenty-four miles'
march, on the north-west side of a bay, to which I
have given the name of my friend Captain Parry, now
employed in the interesting research for a North- West
Passage. Drift wood had become very scarce, and we
found none near the encampment ; a fire, however,
was not required, as we served out pemmican for sup-
par, and the evening was unusually warm.

On the following morning the breeze was fresh, and
the waves rather high. In paddling along the west
side of Parry's Bay, we saw several deer, but owing
to the openness of the country, the hunters could not
approach them. They killed, however, two swans
that were moultiug, several cranes, and many grey
geese. We procured also some caccawees, which were
then moulting and assembled in immense flocks. In
the evening, having rounded Point Beechy, and passed
Hurd's Islands, we were exposed to much inconveni-
ence and danger from a heavy rolling sea ; the canoes
receiving many severe blows, and shipping a good
deal of water, which induced us to encamp at five
P.M. 'Pi'osite to Cape Croker, which we had passed
on the morning of the 12th ; the channel, which lay be-
tween our situation and it, being about seven miles
wide. We had now reached the northern point of en-

In the Arctic Regions.

229

trance into this sound, which I have named in honor
of Lord Viscount Melville, the First Lord of the Ad-
miralty. It is thirty miles wide from east to west,
and twenty from north to south ; and in coasting it
we had sailed eighty-seven and a quarter geographi-
cal miles. Shortly after the tents were pitched, Mr.
Back reported from the steersmen that both canoes
had sustained material injury during this day's voyage.
I found upon examination that fifteen timbers of the
first canoe were broken, some of them in two places,
and that the second canoe was so loose in the frame
that its timbers could not be bound in the usual se-
cure manner, and consequently there was danger of its
bark separating from the gunwales if exposed to a
heavy sea. Distressing as were these circumstances,
they gave me less pain than the discovery that our
people, who had hitherto displayed, in following us
through dangers and difficulties no less novel than ap-
palling to them, a courage beyond our expectation,
now felt serious apprehensions for their safety, which
BO possessed their minds that they were not restrained
even by the presence of their officers from expressing
them. Their fears, we imagined, had been principally
excited by the interpreters, St. Germain and Adam,
who from the outset had foreboded every calamity ;
and we now strongly suspected that their recent want
of success in their huntiiig excursions, had proceeded

0.

230

Thirty Tears

from an intentional relaxation in their efforts to kill
deer, in order that the want of provision might compel
us to put a period to our voyage.

I must now mention that many concurrent circum-
stances had caused me, during the few last days, to
meditate on the approach of this painful necessity.
The strong breezes we had encountered for some days,
led me to fear that the season "^z^ breaking up, and
severe weather would soon ensue, which we could not
sustain in a country destitute of fuel. Our stock of
provision was now reduced to a quantity of pemmican
only sufficient for three days' consumption, and the
prospect of increasing it was not encouraging, for
though reindeer were seen, they could not be easily
approached on the level shores we were now coasting,
besides, it was to be apprehended they would soon
migrate to the south. It was evident that the time
spent in exploring the Arctic and Melville Sounds,
and Bathurst's Inlet, had precluded the hope of reach-
ing Eepulse Bay, which at the outset of tho voyage
we had fondly cherished ; and it was equally obvious
that as our distance from any of the trading establish-
ments would increase as we proceeded, the hazardous
traverse across the barren grounds, which we should
have to make, if compelled to abandon the canoes
upon any part of the coast, would become greater.
I this evening communicated to the officers my sen-

In the Arctic^m^tons,

231

timents on these points, as well ^s respecting our re-
turn, and was happy to find that their opinions coin-
cided with my own. We were all convinced of the
necessity of putting a speedy termination to our ad-
vance, as the hope which we had cherished of meeting
the Esquimaux and procuring provision from them,
could now scarcely be entertained ; but yet we were
desirous of proceeding, until the land should be seen
trending again to the eastward ; that we might be
satisfied of its separation from what we had conceived,
in passing from Cape Barrow to Bathurst's Inlet, to
be a great chain of islands. As it was necessary,
however, at all events, to set a limit to our advance,
I announced my determination of returning after four
days examination, unless, indeed, we should previous-
ly meet the Esquimaux, and be enabled to make
some arrangement for passing the winter with them.
This communication was joyfully received by the men,
and we hoped that the industry of our hunters being
once more excited, we should be able to add to our
stock of provision.

It may here be remarked that we observed the first
regular return of the tides in Warrender's and Parry's
Bays ; but their set could not be ascertained. The
rise of the water did not amount to more than two
feet. Course to-dav south one quarter east — ^nine
miles «and a quarter.

f

232

Thirty Years

\

August 16. — Some rain fell in the night, but the
morning was unusually fine. We set forward at five
A. M., and the men paddled cheerfully along the coast
for ten miles, when a dense fog caused us to land on
Slate-clay Point. Here we found more traces of the
Esquimaux, and the skull of a man placed between
two rocks. The fog dispersed at noon, and we dis-
cerned a group of islands to the northward, which I
have named after Vice- Admiral Sir George Cockbum,
one of the Lords of the Admiralty. Ke- embarking,
we rounded the point and entered Walker's Bay, where,
as in other instances, the low beach which lay between
several high trap cliffs, could not be distinguished un-
til we had coasted down the east side nearly to the
bottom of the bay. When the continuity of the land
was perceived, we crossed to the western shore, and
on landing, discovered a channel leading through a
group of islands. Having passed through this chan-
nel, we ran under sail by the Porden Islands, across
Kiley's Bay, and rounding a cape which now bears the
name of my lamented friend Captain Flinders, had the
pleasure to find the coast trending north-north-east,
with the sea in the offing unusually clear of islands ;
a circumstance which afforded matter of wonder to our
Canadians, who had not previously had an uninter-
rupted view of the ocean.

Our course was continued along the coast until

In the Arctic Eegions.

233

eight P.M., wlien a change in the wind and a threat-
ening thunder squall induced us to encamp ; but the
water was so shallow, that we found some difficulty
in approaching the shore. Large pieces of drift wood
gave us assurance that we had finally escaped from
the bays. Our tents were scarcely pitched before we
were assailed by a heavy squall and rain, which was
succeeded by a violent gale from west-north-west ;
which thrice overset the tents in the course of the
night. The wind blew with equal violence on the fol-
lowing day, and the sea rolled furiously upon the
beach. The Canadians had now an opportunity of
witnessing the effect of a storm upon the sea ; and
the sight increased their desire of quitting it.

Our hunters were sent out, and saw many deer, but
the flatness of the country defeated their attempts to
approach them ; they brought, however, a few un-
fledged geese. As there was no appearance of increas-
ing our stock of provision, the allowance was limited
to a handful of pemmican, and a small portion of por-
table soup to each man per day. The thermometer
this afternoon stood at 41°. The following observa-
tions were obtained : latitude 68° 18' 50" N., longi-
tude 110' 5' 15'' W. ; but 109° 25' 00" W. was used
in the construction of the chart, as the chronometers
were found, on our return to Hood's Kiver, to have
altered their rates ; variation 44° 15' 46" E., and dip
of the needle 89° 31' 12".

:»

234

Thirty Years

On August 18th the stormy weather and sea con-
tinuing, there was no prospect of our being able to
embark. Dr. Bichardson, Mr. Back, and I, therefore,
set out on foot to discover whether the land within a
day's march, inclined more to the east. We went
from ten to twelve miles along the coast, which con-
tinued flat, and kept the same direction as the en-
campment. The most distant land we saw had the
same bearing north-north-east, and appeared like two
islands, which we estimated to be six or seven miles
off ; the shore on their inside seemingly trended more
to the east, so that it is probable Point Turnagain,
for so this spot was named, forms the pitch of a low
flat cape.

Augustus killed a deer in the afternoon, but tho
men were rot able to find it. The hunters found the
burrows of a number of white foxes, and Hepburn
killed one of these animals, which proved excellent
eating, esteemed by us as equal to the young geese,
with which it waR boiled, and far superior to the lean
deer we had upon the coast. Large flocks of geese
passed over the tents, flying to the southward. The
lowest temperature to-day was 38°.

Though it will appear from the chart, that the posi-
tion of Point Tumagain is only six degrees and a half
to the east of the mouth of the Copper-Mine Biver ;
we sailed, in tracing the deeply-indented coast, five
hundred and fifty-five geographic miles, which is little

In the Arctic Begiona.

235

less than the direct distance between the Copper-Mine
Kiver and Kepulse Bay ; supposing the latter to be
in the longitude assigned to it by Middleton.

When the many perplexing incidents which occurred
during the survey of the coast are considered in con-
nection with the shortness of the period, during which
operations of the kind can be carried on, and the dis-
tance we had to travel before we could gain a place of
shelter for the winter, I trust it will be judged that
we prosecuted the enterprize as far as was prudent,
and abandoned it only under a well-founded conviction
that a further advance would endanger the lives of the
whole party, and prevent the knowledge of what had
been dane from reaching England. The active assist-
ance I received from the officers, in contending with
the fears of the men, demands my warmest gratitude.

Our researches as far as they have gone, seem to
favor the opinion of those who contend for the practi-
cability of a North-West Passage. The general line
of coast probably runs east and west, nearly in the
latitude assigned to Mackenzie's Kiver, the Sound
into which Kotzebue entered, and Repulse Bay ; and
very little doubt can, in my opinion, be entertained of
the existence of a continued sea, in or about that line
of direction. The existence of whales, too, on this
part of the coast, evidenced by the whalebone we found
in Esquimaux Cove, may be considered as an argu-
ment for an open sea ; and a connection with Hud-

236

Thirty Years

son's Bay is rendered more probable from the same
kind of fish abounding on the coasts we visited, and
on those to the north of Churchill River. I allude
more particularly to the Capelin or Salmo Arcticus,
which we found in large shoals in Bathurst's Inlet,
and which not only abounds, as Augustus told us, in
the bays in his country, but swarms in the Greenland
firths. The portion of the sea over which we passed
is navigable for vessels of any size ; the ice we met,
particularly after quitting Detention Harbor, would
not have arrested a strong boat. The chain of islands
affords shelter from all heavy seas, and there are good
harbors at convenient distances. I entertain indeed,
sanguine hopes that the skill and exertions of my
friend Captain Parry will soon render this question no
Ipnger problematical. His task is doubtless an
arduous one, and, if ultimately successful, may occupy
two and perhaps three seasons ; but confiding as I do,
from personal knowledge, in his perseverance and
talent for surmounting difiiculties, the strength of his
ships, and the abundance of provisions with which
they are stored, I have very little apprehension of his
safety. As I understand his object was to keep the
coast of America close on board, he will find in the
spring of the year, before the breaking up of the ice
can permit him to pursue his voyage, herds of deer
flocking in abundance to all parts of the coast, which
may be procured without difi&culty ; and^ even later

In the Arctic Regions.

237

in the season, additions to his stock of provision may
be obtained on many parts of the coast, should cir-
cumstances give him leisure to send out hunting
parties. With the trawl or seine nets also, he may
almost every where get abundance of fish even without
retarding his progress. (Jnder these circumstances I
do not conceive that he runs any hazard of wanting
provisions, should his voyage be prolonged even
beyond the latest period of time which is calculated
upon. Drift timber may be gathered at many places
in considerable quantities, and there is a fair prospect
of his opening a communication with the Esquimaux,
who come down to the coast to kill seals in the spring,
previous to the ice breaking up ; and from whom, if
he succeeds in conciliating their good will, he may
obtain provision, and much useful assistance.

If he makes for Copper-Mine River, as he probably
will do, he will not find it in the longitude as laid
down on the charts ; but he will probably find what
would be more interesting to him, a post whicb we
erected on the 26th August at the mouth of Hood's
River, which is nearly, as will appear hereafter, in
that longitude, with a flag upon it, and a letter at the
foot of it, which may convey to him some useful in-
formation. It is possible, however, that he might
keep outside of the range of islands which skirt this
part of the coast.

:

J
'

,

238

Thirty Years

■#•

CHAPTER X

Ai^St 17. My original intention, whenever the season
should compel us to relinquish the survey, had been
to return by the way of the Copper-Mine River, and,
in pursuance of my arrangement with the Hook to
travel to Slave Lake through the line of woods extend-
ing thither by the Great Bear and Marten Lakes, but
our scanty stock of provision and the length of the
voyage rendered it necessary to make for a nearer
place. We had already found that the -country, be-
tween Cape Barrow and the Copper-Mine River, would
not supply our wants, and this it seemed probable
would now be still more the case ; besides, at this ad-
vanced season, we expected the frequent recurrence of
gales, which would cause great detention, if not dan-
ger in proceeding along that very rocky part of the
coast.

I determined, therefore, to make at once for Arctic
Sound, where we had found the animals more numer-
ous than at any other place ; and entering Hood's

In the Arctic Regions.

239

River, to advance up that stream as far as it was navi-
gable, and then to construct small canoes out of the
materials of the larger ones, which could be carried in
crossing the barren grounds to Fort Enterprize.

August 19. — We were almost beaten out of our
comfortless abodes by rain during the night, and this
morning the gale continued without diminution. The
thermometer fell to 33**. Two men were sent with
Junius to search for the deer which Augustus had kill-
ed. Junius returned in the evening bringing part of
the meat, but owing to the thickness of the weather,
his companions parted from him and did not make
their appearance. Divine service was read. On the
20th we were presented with the most chilling pros-
pect, the small pools of water being frozen over, the
ground being covered with snow, and the thermometer
at the freezing point at mid-day. Flights of geese
were passing to the southward. The wind however
was more moderate, having changed to the eastward.
Considerable anxiety prevailing respecting Belanger
and Michel, the two men who strayed from Junius
yesterday, the rest were sent out to look for them.
The search was successful, and they all returned in
the evening. The stragglers were much fatigued, and
had suffered severely from the cold, one of them hav-
ing his thighs frozen, and what under our circumstan-
ces was most grievous, they had thrown away all the *

'%'

240

Thirty Tears

meat. The wind during the night returned to the
north-west quarter, blew more violently than ever, and
raised a very turbulent sea. The next day did not
improve our condition, the snow remained on the
ground, and the small pools were frozen. Our hunt-
ers were sent out, but they returned after a fatiguing
day's march without having seen any animals. We
made a scanty meal off a handful of pemmican, after
which only half a bag remained.

The wind abated after midnight, and the surf di-
minished rapidly, which caused us to be on the alert
at a very early hour on the 22d, but we had to wait
until six A.M. for the return of Augustus, who had
continued out all night on an unsuccessful pursuit of
deer. It appears that he walked a few miles farther
along the coast, than the party had done on the 18tb,
and from a sketch he drew on the sand, we were con-
firmed in our former opinion that the shore inclined
more to the ea. tward beyond Point Turnagain. He
also drew a river of considerable size, that dis-
charges its waters into Walker's Bay ; on the banks
of which stream he saw a piece of wood, such as the
Esquimaux use in producing fire, and other marks so
fresh that he supposed they had recently visited the
spot. We therefore left several iron materials for
them. Our men, cheered by the prospect of returning,
embarked with the utmost alai rity ; and, paddling

••^^m-mtmti^fm

In the Artie Regions.

241

with unusual vigor, carried us across Riley's and
Walker's Bays, a distance of twenty miles before noon,
when we landed on Slate- Clay Point, as the wind had
freshened too much to permit us to continue the voy-
age. The whole party went to hunt, but returned
without success in the evening, drenched with the
heavy rain which commenced soon after they had set
out. Several deer were seen, but could not be ap-
proached in this naked country ; and as our stock of
pemmican did not admit of serving out two meals, we
went dinnerless to bed.

Soon after our departure to-day, a sealed tin-case,
sufficiently buoyant to float, was thrown overboard,
containing a short account of our proceedings, and the
position of the most conspicuous points. The wind
blew oif the land, the water was smooth, and as the
sea is in this part more free from islands than in any
other, there was every probability of its being driven
off the shore into the current ; which, as I have before
mentioned, we suppose, from the circumstance of
Mackenzie's* Eiver being the only known stream that
brings down the wood we have found along the shores,
to set to the eastward.

August 23. — A severe frost caused us to pass a
comfortless night. At 2 P.M. we set sail, and the
men voluntarily launched out to make a traverse of
fifteen miles across Melville Sound, before a strong

M

J?

i

^4St

Thirty Yeavi

r -I «Tr r^— T~ '-i-rf-wit— "n-nr-

EA

wind ttttd h«»i\vy iott. The prlvntlon of food, ttndor
which our voyagew w*erc then kboring, nbnoibod ©very
other terror ; otherwise the rnont powerflil pernuaHlon
could uofi have induced them to attempt such a tra-
verse, It wtts with the utmost diflloulty that the
CAttoes were kept ft'om turning their hroftdfiiileB to the
waves, though we sometimes steeriMl with all the pad-
dles. One of them narrowly escaped beinij; overset by
this accident, happening;, in mid-channel, where the
wa\^8 were so high Inat the mast-head of our canoe
was often hid from the other, though it was sailing
within hail

The travewe, however, was made ; we were then
near a high rocky lee shore, on which a heavy sttrf was
beating. The wind being on the beam, the canoos
drifted fast to leewaril ; and, on rounding a point, the
recoil of the sea fi\>m the rock.^ was so great that they
were with dilHculty kept fK>m foundering. We looked
in vain for a sheltered bay to land in ; but, at length,
Wing unable to \wat her another point, we were obliged
to put ashore on the open beach, which, iortunatety,
w^a« sandy at this spot. The delxirkation was effectinl
without further i»\jury than the si)litting of the head
of the second canoe, which was easily rejmired.

Our encnmptuent Inking near to the place where wo
killeil the deer on the 11th, almost the whole jmrty
went out to hunt, b\it they returned in the evening

In the Arcito Up. ff tons,

243

without Imvlng seen any game. The berriei) how-
over, were ripe and phmtiful, and, with the addition
of some country tea, furnishod a supper. There were
Bome sliowers in tho afternoon, and the weather wan
cold, the thermometer being 42**, but the evening and
night were calm and fine. It may bo reniftrked that
the muBquitoen disappeared wiien tho late gales com-
menced.

Aurfuat 24.— Embarlcing at three A.M., we stretch-
ed across the eastern entrance of Datliurst's Inlet, and
arrived at an island, which I Itave named after Colo-
nel Barry, of Newton Barry. Some deer being seen
on the beach, the hunters went in pursuit of them,
and succeeded in killing three females, which enabled
us to save our last remaining meal of pemmican.
They saw also some fresh tracks of musk oxen on the
bunks of a small stream, wliich flowed into a lake in
tlie centre of the island. Tliese animals must have
crossed a channel, at least three miles wide, to reach
tho nearest of those islands. Some specimens of varie-
gated pebbles and jiispcr were found here imbedded
in the amygdaloidal rock.

Bo-embarking at two P.M., and continuing throtigh
what was supposed to bo a channel between two
islands, we fontid our passage barred by a gravelly
istlinms of only ten yards in width ; tho canoes and
cargoes wore carried across it, and wc passed into

244

Thirty Years

Bathurst's Inlet through another similar channel,
bounded on both sides by steep rocky hills. The
wind then changing from S.E. to N. W. brought heavy
rain, and we encamped at seven P.M., having advan-
ced eighteen miles.

August 25. — Starting this morning -with a fresh
breeze in our favor, we soon reached that part of Bar-
ry's Island where the canoes were detained on the 2d
and 3d of this month, and contrary to what we then
experienced, the deer were now plentiful. The hunt-
ers killed two, and we were relieved from all appre-
hension of an immediate wdnt of food. Gne would
suppose the deer were about to retire to the main
shore, from their assembling at this time in such num-
bers on the islands nearest the coast. Those we saw
were generally females with their young, and all of
them very lean.

The wind continued in the same direction until we
had rounded Point Wollaston, and then changed to a
quarter which enabled us to steer for Hood's River,
which we ascended as high as the first rapid, and en-
camped. Here terminated our voyage on the Arctic
sea, during which we had gone over six hundred and
fifty geographical miles. Our Canadian voyagers
could not restrain their expressions of joy at having
turned their backs on the sea, and they passed the
evening talking over their past adventures with much

m

In the Arctic Regions.

245

humor and no little exaggeration. The consideration
that the most painful, and certainly the most hazard-
ous, part of the journey was yet to come, did not de-
press their spirits at all. It is due to their charac-
ter to mention that they displayed much courage in ,
encountering the dangers of the sea, magnified to them
by their novelty. ,

The shores between Cape Barrow and Cape Flin-
ders, including the extensive branches of Arctic and
Melville Sounds, and Bathurst's Inlet, may be com-
prehended in one great gulf, which I have distinguish-
ed by the appellation of George IV.'s Coronation
Gulf, in honor of His Most Gracious Majesty, the lat-
ter name being added to mark the time of its discov-
ery. The Archipelago of islands which fringe the
coast from Copper-Mine Eiver to Point Tumagain, I
have named in honor of His Boyal Highness the Duke
of York.

It may be deserving of notice, that the extremes in
temperature of the sea water during our voyage were
63° and 35°, but its general temperature was between
43° and 48°. Throughout our return from Point
Tumagain we observed that the sea had risen several
feet above marks left at our former encampments.
This may, perhaps, be attributed to the north-west
gales.

August 26.— Previous to our departure this mom-

246

Thirty Tears

ing, an assortment of iron materials, beads, looking-
glasses, and other articles were put up in a conspicu-
ous situation for the Esquimaux, and the English
Union was planted on the loftiest sand-hill, where it
might be seen by any ships passing in the ofiing.
Here also, was deposited in a tin box, a letter contain-
ing an outline of our proceedings, the latitude and
longitud" of the principal places, and the course we
intended to pursue towards Slave Lake.

Embarking at eight A. M. we proceeded up the
river, which is full of sandy shoals, but sufficiently
deep for canoes in the channels. It is from one hun-
dred to two hundred yards wide, and is bounded by
high and steep banks of clay. We encamped at a
cascade of eighteen or twenty feet high, which is pro-
duced by a ridge of rock crossing the river, and the
nets were set. A mile below this cascade Hood's River
is joined by a stream half its own size, which I have
called James* Branch. Bear and deer tracts had been
numerous on the banks of the river when we were here
before, but not a single recent one was to be seen at this
time. Credit, however, killed a small deer at some
distance inland, which, with the addition of berries,
furnished a delightful repast this evening. The
weather was remarkably fine, and the temperature so
mild, that the musquitoes again made their appear-
ance, but not in any great numbers. Our distance
rv."''o +r».r1av was not more than six miles.

In the Arctic Regions.

247

The next morning the net furnished us with ten
white fish and trout. Having made a further deposit
of iron work for the Esquimaux, we pursued our voy-
age up the river, but the shoals and rapids in this part
were so frequent, that we walked along the banks the
whole day, and the crews labored hard in carrying the
canoes thus lightened over the shoals or dragging them
up the rapids, yet our journey in a direct line was only
about seven miles. In the evening we encamped at
the lower end of a narrow chasm through which the
river flows for upwards of a mile. The walls of this
chasm are upwards of two hundred feet high, quite
perpendicular, and in some places only a few yards
apart. The river precipitates itself into it over a rock,
forming two magnificent and picturesque falls close to
each other. The upper fall is about sixty feet high,
and the lower one at least one hundred, but perhaps
considerably more, for the narrowness of the chasm
into which it fell prevented us from seeing its bottom,
and we could merely discern the top of the spray far
beneath our feet. The lower fall is divided into two,
by an insulated column of rock which rises about forty
feet above it. The whole descent of the river at this
place probably exceeds two hundred and fifty feet.
The rock is very fine felspathose sandstone. It has a
smooth surface and a light red color. I have named
these magnificent cascade " Wilberforce Falls," as a

248

Thirty Years

tribute of mj respect for that distinguished philan-
thropist and Christian. Messrs. Back and Hood took
beautiful sketches of this majestic scene. ,

The river being surveyed from the summit of a hill,
above these falls, appeared so rapid and shallow, that
it seemed useless to attempt proceeding any farther in
the large canoes. I therefore determined on con-
structing out of their materials two smaller ones of
suffioient size to contain three persons, for the purpose
of crossing any river that might obstruct our progress.
This operation was accordingly commenced, .and by
the 31st both the canoes being finished, we prepared
for our departure on the following day.

The leather which had been preserved for making
shoes was equally divided among the men, two pair of
flannel socks were given to each person, and such ar-
ticles of warm clothing as remained, were issued to
those who most required them. They were also fur-
nished with one of the officers' touts. This being
done, I communicated to the men my intention of
proceeding in as direct a course as possible to the part
of Point Lake, opposite to our spring encampment,
which was only distant one hundred and forty-nine
miles in a straight line. They received the communi-
cation cheerfully, considered the journey to be short,
and left me, in high spirits, to arrange their own
packages. The stores, books, &c., which were not

In the Arctic Regions.

249

absolutely necessary to be carried, were then put up in

boxes to be left en cache here, in order that the men's

burdens might be as light as possible.

The next morning was warm, and very fine. Every

one was on the alert at an early hour, being anxious

to commence the journey. Our luggage consisted of

ammunition, nets, hatchets, ice chisels, astronomical

instruments, clothing, blankets, three kettles, and the

two canoes, which were each carried by one man. The

oflBlcers carried such a portion of their own things as

their strength would permit ; the weight carried by

each man was about ninety pounds, and with this we

advanced at the rate of about a mile an hour, including

rests. In the evening the hunters killed a lean cow,

out of a large drove of musk-oxen ; but the men were

too much laden to carry more than a small portion of

its flesh. The alluvial soil, which towards the mouth

of the river spreads into plains, covered with grass

and willows, was now giving place to a more barren

and hilly country ; so that we could but just collect

sufficient brush wood to cook our suppers. The part

of the river we skirted to-day was shallow, and flowed

over a bed of sand ; its width about one hundred and

twenty yards. About midnight our tent was blown

down by a squall, and we were completely drenched

with rain before it could be re-pitched.

In the morning of the Ist of September a fail of

11»

*'■

250

ThiHy Tears

snow took place ; the canoes became a cause of delay,
by the difficulty of carrying them in a high wind, and
they sustained much damage from the falls of those
who had charge of them. The face of the country
was broken by hills of moderate elevation, but the
ground was plentifully strewed with small stones,
which, to men bearing heavy burdens, and whose feet
were protected only by soft moose skin shoes, occasion-
ed great pain. At the end of eleven miles we encamp-
ed, and sent for a musk-ox and a deer, which St. Ger-
main and Augustus had killed. The day was extreme-
ly cold, the thermometer varying between 34° and 36°.
In the afternoon a heavy fall of snow took place, on
the wind changing from nortK-west to south-west.
We found no wood at the encampment, but made a
fire of moss to cook the supper, and crept under oui
blankets for warmth. At sun rise the thermometer
was at 31°, and the wind fresh from north-west ; but
the weather became mild in the course of the forenoon,
and the snow disappeared from the gravel. The after-
noon was remarkably fine, and the thermometer rose
to 50°. One of the hunters killed a musk-ox. The
hills in this part are lower and more round-backed
than those we passed yesterday, and exhibited but lit-
tle naked rock ; they were covered with lichens.

Having ascertained from the summit of the highest
hill near the tents, that the river continued to preserve

In the Arctic Regions.

251

a west course ; and fearing that by pursuing it further
we might loose much time, and unnecessarily walk
over a great deal of ground, I determined on quitting
its banks the next day, and making as directly as we
could for Point Lake. We accordingly followed the
river on the 3d, only to the place where the musk-ox
had been killed last evening, and after the meat was
procured, crossed the river in our two canoes lashed
together. We now emerged from the valley of the
river, and entered a level, but very barren country,
varied only by small lakes and marshes, the ground
being covered with small stones. Many old tracks of
rein-deer were seen in the clayey soil, and some more
recent ones of the nfhsk-ox. We encamped on the
borders of Wright's Eiver, which flows to the eastward ;
the direct distance walked to-day being ten miles and
three-quarters. The next morning was very fine, and
as the day advanced, the weather became quite warm.
We set out at six A.M., and having forded the river,
walked over a perfectly level country, interspersed with
small lakes, which communicated with each other, by
streams running in various directions. No berry-bear-
ing plants were found in this part, the surface of the
earth being thinly covered in the moister places with
a few grasses, and on the drier spots with lichens.

Having walked twelve miles and a half, we encamp
ed at seven P.M., and distributed our last piece oi

252

Tliirty Years

pemmicaDj and a little arrow-root for supper, which
afforded but a scanty meal. This evening was warm,
but dark clouds overspread the sky. Our men now
began to find their burdens very oppressive, and were
much fatigued by this day's march, but did not com-
plain. One of them was lame from an inflammation in
the knee. Heavy rain commenced at midnight, and
continued without intermission until five in the morn-
ing, when it was succeeded by snow on the wind
changing to north-west, which soon increased to a vio-
lent gale. As we had nothing to eat, and were desti-
tute of the means of making a fire, we remained in
. our beds all the day ; but the covering of our blankets
was insufficient to prevent us frofti feeling the severity
of the frost, and sufiering inconvenience from the drift-
ing of the snow into our tents. There was no abate-
ment of the storm the next day ; our tents were com-
pletely frozen, and the snow had drifted around them
to a depth of three feet, and even on the inside there
was a covering of several inches on our blankets. Our
sufiering from cold, in a comfortless canvass tent in
such weather, with the temperature at 20^, and with-
out fire, will easily be imagined ; it was, however, less
than that which we felt from hunger.

The morning of the 7th cleared up a little, but the
wind was still strong, and the weather extremely cold.
From the unusual continuance of the storm, we feared

i^jR^tii,..

In the Arctic Regions,

253

the winter had set in with all its rigor, and that hy
longer delay we should only he exposed to an accumu-
lation of difficulties ; we therefore prepared for our
journey, although we were in a very unfit condition
for starting, being weak from fasting, and our gar-
ments stiffened by the frost. We had no means
of making a fire to thaw them, the moss, at all times
difficult to kindle, being now covered with ice and
snow. A considerable time was consumed in packing
up the frozen tents and bed clothes, the wind blowing
80 strong that no one could keep his hands long out of
his mittens.

Juat as we were aboat to commence our march, I
was seized with a fainting fit, in consequence of ex-
haustion and sudden exposure to the wind ; but
after eating a morsel of portable soup, I recovered, so
far as to be able to move on. I was unwilling at first
to take this morsel of soup, which was diminishing
the small and only remaining meal of the party ; but
several of the men urged me to it, with much kindness.
The ground was covered a foot deep with snow, the
margin of the lakes was incrusted with ice, and the
swamps over which we had to pass were entirely
frozen ; but the ice not being sufficiently strong to
bear us, we frequently plunged knee-deep in water.
Those who carried the canoes were repeatedly blown
down by the violence of the wind, and they often fell,

2M

Thirty Tears

from making an insecure step on a slippery stone ; on
one of these occasions^ the largest canoe was so much
broken as to be rendered utterly unserviceable. This
was felt as a serious disaster, as the remaining canoe
having through mistake been made too small, it was
doubtful whether it would be sufficient to carry us
across a river. Indeed we had found it necessary in
crossing Hood's River, to lash the two canoes together.
As there was some suspicion that Benoit, who carried
the canoe, had broken it intentionally, he having on a
former occasion been overheard by some of the men to
say, that he would do so when he got it in charge, we
closely examined him on the point ; he roundly denied
having used the expressions attributed to him, and
insisted that it was broken by his falling accidentally ;
and as he brought men to attest the latter fact, who
saw him tumble, we did not press the matter further.
I may here remark, that our people had murmured a
good deal at having to carry two canoes, though they
were informed of the necessity of taking both, in case
it should be deemed advisable to divide the party ;
which it had been thought probable we should be
obliged to do, if animals proved scarce, in order to
give the whole the better chance of procuring sub-
sistence, and also for the purpose of sending forward
some of the best walkers to search for Indians, and to
get them to meet us with supplies of provision. The

In the Arctic Regions.

255

power of doing this was now at an end. As the acci-
dent could not be remedied, we turned it to the best
account, by making a fire of the bark and timbers of
the broken vessel, and cooked the remainder of our
portable soup and arrow-root. This was a scanty
meal after three days' fasting, but it served to allay
the pangs of hunger, and enabled us to proceed at a
quicker pace than before. The depth of the snow
caused us to march in Indian file, that is, in each
other's steps ; the voyagers taking it in turn to lead
the party. A distant object was pointed out to this
man in the direction we wished to take, and Mr. Hood
followed immediately behind him, to renew the bear-
ings, and keep him from deviating more than could be
helped from the mark. It may be here observed, that
we proceeded in this manner throughout our route
across the barren grounds.

In the afternoon we got into a more hilly country,
where the ground was strewed with large stones. The
surface of these was covered with lichens of the genua
gyrophorUj which the Canadians term tripe de roche.
A considerable quantity was gathered, and with half
a partridge each, (which were shot in the course of the
day,) furnished us with a slender supper, which we
cooked with a few willows, dug up from beneath the
deep snow. We passed a comfortless night in our
damp clothes, but took the precaution of sleeping

256

Thirty Years

upon our socks and shoes to prevent them from freez-
ing. This plan was afterwards adopted throughout
the journey.

At half-past five in the morning we proceeded ; and
after walking about two miles, came to Cracroft's Biv-
er, flowing to the westward, with a very rapid current
over a rocky channel. We had much difficulty in
crossing this, the canoe being useless, not only from
the bottom of the channel being obstructed by large
stones, but also from its requiring gumming, an opera-
tion which, owing to the want of wood and the frost,
we were unable to perform. However, after following
the course of the river some way, we eflfected a pass-
age by means of a range of large rocks that crossed a
rapid. As the current was strong, and many of the
rocks were covered with water to the depth of two or
three feet, the men were exposed to much danger in
carrying their heavy burdens across, and several of
them actually slipped into the stream, but were im-
mediately rescued by the others. Junius went farther
up the river in search of a better crossing place, and
did not rejoin us to-day. As several of the party were
drenched from head to foot, and we were all wet to
the middle, our clothes became stiff with the frost, and
we walked with much pain for the remainder of the
day. The march was continued to a late hour, being
anxious to rejoin the hunters who had gone before, but

In the Arctic Regions,

257

we were obliged to encamp at the end of ten miles and
a quarter, without seeing them. Our only meal to-
day consisted of a partridge each, (which the hunters
shot,) mixed with tripe de roche. This repast,
although scanty for men with appetites such as our
daily fctigue created, proved a cheerful one, and was
received with thankfulness. Most of the men had to
sleep in the open air, in consequence of the absence
of Cr6dit, who carried their tent ; but we fortunately
found an unusual quantity of roots to make a fire,
which prevented their suffering much from the cold,
though the thermometer was at 17®.

"We started at six on the 9th, and at the end of two
miles regained our hunters, who were halting on the
borders of a lake amidst a clump of stunted willows.
This lake stretched to the westward as far as we could
see, and its waters were discharged by a rapid stream
one hundred and fifty yards wide. Being entirely ig-
norant where we might be led by pursuing the course
of the lake, and dreading the idea of going a mile un-
necessarily out of the way, we determined on crossing
the river if possible ; and the canoe was gummed for
the purpose, the willows furnishing us with fire. But
we had to await the return of Junius before we could
make the traverse. In the mean time we gathered a
little trijpe de roche^ and breakfasted upon it and a
few partridges that were killed in the morning. St.

258

Thirty Tears

Germain and Adam were sent upon some recent tracks
of deer. Junius arrived in the afternoon, and inform-
ed us that he had seen a large herd of musk-oxen on
the banks of Cracroft's Biver, and had wounded one
of them, but it had escaped. He brought about i'our
pounds of meat, vlie remains of a deer that had been
devoured by the wolves. The poor fellow was much
fatigued, having walked throughout the night, but as
the weather was particularly favorable for our crossing
the river, we could not allow him to rest. After he
had taken some refreshment we proceeded to the river.
The canoe being put into the water was found extreme-
ly ticklish, but it was managed with much dexterity
by St. Germain, Adam, and Peltier, who ferried over
one passenger at a time, causing him to lie flat in its
bottom, by no means a pleasant position, owing to its
leakiness, but there was no alternative. The transport
of th« whole party was effected by five o'clock, and we
walked about two miles further, and encamped, hav-
ing come five miles and three-quarters on a south-west
course. Two young alpine hares were shot by St.
Germain, which, with the small piece of meat brought
in by Junius, furnished the supper of the whole party.
There was no tripe de roche here. The country had
now become decidedly hilly, and was covered with
snow. The lake preserved its western direction, as
far as I could see from the summit of the highest

'#

In the Arctic Regions.

259

mountain near the encampment. We subsequently
learne(Lfrom the Copper Indians, that the part at
which we had crossed the river was the Congecatlia
wha chaga of Hearne, of which I had little idea at the
time, not only from the difference of latitude, but also
from its being so much farther east of the mouth of
the Copper-Mine River, than his track is laid' down.
He only making one degree aud three-quarters differ-
ence of longitude, and we upwards of four. Had I
been aware of the fact, several days* harassing march,
and a disastrous accident would have been prevented
by keeping on the western side of the lake, instead of
crossing the river. We were informed also, that this
river is the Anatessy, or Biver of Strangers, and is sup-
posed to idll into Bathurst's Inlet ; but although the
Indians have visited its mouth, their description was
not sufficient to identify it with any of the rivers whose
mouths we had seen. It probably falls in that part
of the coast which was hid from our view by Goul-
bnrh*s or Elliot's Islands.

September IJ. — We had a cold north wind, and the
atmosphere was foggy. The thermometer 18** at five
A.M. In the course of our march this morning, we
passed many small lakes ; and the ground, becoming
higher and more hilly as we receded from the river,
was covered to a much greater depth with snow.
This rendered walking not only extremely laborious,

m

260

^ Thirty Tears

but also hazardous in the highest degree ; for the
sides of the hills, as is usual throughout th^barren
grounds, abounding in accumulations of large angular
stones, it often happened that the men fell into the
interstices with their loads on their backs, being de-
ceived by the smooth appearance of the drifted snow.
If any one had broken a limb here, his fate would
have been melancholy indeed ; we could neither have
remained with him, nor carried him on. We halted
at ten to gather tripe de roche, but it was so frozen,
that we were quite benumbed with cold before a suffi-
ciency could be collected even for a scanty meal. On
proceeding, our men were somewhat cheered, by ob-
serving on the sandy summit of a hill, from whence
the snow had been blown, the summer track of a man ;
and afterwards by seeing several deer tracks on the
snow. About noon the weather cleared up a little,
and, to our great joy, we saw a herd of musk-oxen
grazing in a valley below us. The party instantly
halted, and the best hunteru were sent out ; they ap-
proached the animals with the utmost caution, no less
than two hours being consumed before they got within
gun-shot. In the meantime we beheld their proceed-
ings with extreme anxiety, and many secret prayers
were, doubtless, offered up for their success. At
length they opened their fire, and we had the satisfac-
tion of seeing one of the largest cows fall ; another

In the Arctic Regions.

261

was wounded, but escaped. This success infused
spirit into our starving party. To skin and cut up
the animal was the work of a few minutes. The con-
tents of its stomach were devoured upon the spot, and
the raw intestines, which were next attacked, were
pronounced by the most delicate amongst us to be
excellent. A few willcuvs, whose tops were seen
peeping through the snow in the bottom of the valley,
were quickly grubbed, the tents pitched, and supper
cooked, and devoured with avidity. This was the
sixth day since we had had a good meal. The tripe de
roche, even where we got enough, only serving to allay
the pangs of hunger for a short time. After supper,
two of the hunters went in pursuit of the herd, but
could not get near them.

We were detained all the next day by a strong
southerly wind, and were much incommoded in the
tents by the drifL saow. The temperature was 20®.
The average for the last ten days about 24 5°. We
restricted ourselves to one meal to-day as we were at
i'est, and there was only meat remaining sufficient for
the next day.

The gale had not diminished on the 12th, and, as we
were fearful of its continuance for some time, we de-
termined on going forward ; our only doubt regarded
the preservation of the canoe, but the men promised
to pay particular attention to it, and the most careful

i

.

%

262

Thirty Tears

persons were appointed to take it in charge. The
snow was two feet deep, and the ground much broken,
which rendered the march extremely painful. The
whole party complained more of faintness and weak-
ness than thej had ever done before ; their strength
seemed to have been impaired by the recent supply of
animal food. In the afternoon the wind abated, and
the scow ceased ; cheered with the change, we pro-
ceeded forward at a quicker pace, and encamped at
six P.M., having come eleven miles. Our supper con-
sumed the last of our meat.

We set out on the 13th, in thick hazy weather,
and, after an hour's march, had the extreme mortifica-
tion to find ourselves on the borders of a large lake,
which we subsequently learned from the Indians was
named Contwoy-to, or Bum Lake ; neither of its ex-
tremities could be seen. As the portion which lay to
the east seemed the widest, wc coasted along to the
westward portion in search of a crossing-place This
lake being bounded by steep and lofty hills, our march
was very fatiguing. Those sides which were exposed
to the sun were free from snow, and we found upon
them some excellent berries. We encamped at six P.
M., having come only six miles and a half. Credit
was then missing, and he did not return during the
night. We supped off" a single partridge and some
tripe (ie roc^ ; this unpalatable weed was now quite

In the Artie Regions.

263

nauseous to the whole party, and in several it produced
bowel complaints. Mr. Hood was the greatest suffer-
er from this cause. This evening we were extremely
distressed at discovering that our improvident com-
panions, since we left Hood's River, had thrown away
three of the fishing nets, and burnt the floats ; they
knew we had brought them to procure subsistence for
the party, when the animals should fail, and we could
scarcely believe the fact of their having wilfully de- '
prived themselves of this resource, especially when we
considered that most of them had passed the greater
part of their servitude in situations where the nets
alone had supplied them with food. Being thus de-
prived of our principal resource, that of fishing, and
the men evidently getting weaker every day, it became
necessary to lighten their burdens of every thing
except ammunition, clothing, and the instruments
that were required to find our way. I, therefore,
issued directions to deposit at this encampment the
dipping needle, azimuth compass, magnet, a large
thermometer, and a few books wo had carried, having
torn out of these such parts as we should require to
work the observations for latitude and longitude. I
also promised, as an excitement to the efforts in hunt-
ing, my gun to St. Germain, and an ample compensa-
tion to Adam, or any of the other men who should kill
any animals. Mr. Hood^ on this occasion^ lent his

•i

264

Thirty Years

gun to Michel, the Iroquois, who was very eager in
the chase, and often successful.
. September 14. — This morning the officers being as-
sembled round a small fire, Perrault presented each
of us with a small piece of meat which he had saved
from his allowance. It was received with great thank-
fulness, and suclr an act of self-denial and kindness,
being totally unexpected in a Canadian voyager, filled
our eyeg with tears. In directing our course to a river
issuing from the lake, we met Credit, who communi-
cated the joyful intelligence of his having killed two
deer in the morning. We instantly halted, and hav-
ing shared the deer that was nearest to us, prepared
breakfast. After which, the other deer was sent for,
and we went down to the river, which was about three
hundred yards wide, and flowed with great velocity
through a broken rocky channel. Having searched
for a part where the current was most smooth, the
canoe was placed in the water at the head of a rapid,
and St. Germain, Solomon, Belanger, and I, embarked
in order to cross. We went from the shore very well,
but in mid-channel the canoe became difficult to man-
age under our burden, as the breeze was fresh. The
current drove us to the edge of the rapid, when Be-
langer unfortunately applied his paddle to avert the
apparent danger of being forced down it, and lost his
balance. The canoe was overset in consequence in

In the Arctic Begtona,

265

the middle of the rapid. We fortunately kept hold
of it, until we touched a rock where the water did not
reach higher than our waists ; here we kept our foot-
ing, notwithstanding the strength of the current, un-
til the water was emptied out of the canoe. Belanger
then held the canoe steady whilst 8t. Germain placed
me in it, and afterwards embarked nimself in a very
dexterous manner. It was impossible, however, to
embark Belanger, as the canoe would have been hur-
ried down the rapid, the moment he should have
raised his foot from the rock on which he stood. Wo
were, therefore, compelled to leave him in his perilous
situation. We had not gone twenty yards before the
canoe, striking on a sudden rock, went down. The
place being shallow, we were again enabled to empty
it, and the third attempt brought us to the shore. In
the mean time Belanger was suffering extremely, im-
mersed to his middle in the centre of a rapid, the tem-
perature of which was very little above the freezing
point, and the upper part of his body covered with
wet clothes, exposed in a temperature not much above
zero, to a strong breeze. He called piteously for re-
lief, and St. Germain on his return endeavored to em-
bark him, but in vain. The canoe was hurried down
the rapid, and when he landed he was rendered by the
cold incapable of further exertion, and Adam attempt-
ed to embark Belanger, but found it impossible. An

12

266

Hiirty Tears

attempt was next made to carry out to bim a line,
made of the slings of the men's loads. This also
failed, the current acting so strongly upon it, as to
prevent the canoe from steering, and it was finally
broken and carried down the stream. At length,
when Belanger'a strength seemed almost exhausted,
the canoe reached bim with a small cord belonging to
one of the nets, and he was dragged perfectly sense-
less through the rapid. By the direction of Dr. Rich-
ardson, he was instantly stripped, and being rolled
up in blankets, two men undressed themseh'es and
went to bed with him ; but it was some hours before
he recovered his warmth and sensations. As soon as
Belanger was placed in his bed, the officers immedia-
tely sent over my blankets and a person to make a
fire. Augustus brought the canoe over, and in return-
ing he was obliged to descend both the rapids, be-
fore he could get across the stream ; which hazardous
service he performed with the greatest coolness and
judgment. It is impossible to describe my sensations
as I witnessed the various unsuccessful attempts to
relieve Belanger. The distance prevented my seeing
distinctly what was going on, and I continued pacing
up and down upon the rock on which I landed, regard-
less of the coldness of my drenched and stiffening gar-
ments. The canoe, in every attempt to reach him,
was hurried down the rapid, and was lost to the view

In the Arctic Regions.

2G7

JW

amonjst the rocky islets, with a rapidity that seemed
to threjiten certain destruction ; once, indeed, I fan-
cied that L saw it overwhelmed in the waves. Such
an event would have been fatal to the whole party.
Separated as I was from my companions, without gun,
ammunition, hatchet, or the means of making a fire,
and in wet clothes, my doom would have been speedily
sealed. My companions too, driven to the necessity
of coasting the lake, must have sunk under the fatigue
of rounding its innumerable arms and bays, which, as
we have learned from the Indians, are very extensive.
By the goodness of Providence, however, we were
spared at that time, and some of us have been permit-
ted to offer up our thanksgivings, in a civilized laud,
for the signal deliverances we then and afterwards ex-
perienced.

By this accident I had the misfortune to loose my
port-folio, containing my journal from Fort Enterprize,
together with all the astronomical and meteorological
observations made during the descent of the Copper-
Mine Biver, and along the sea coast, (except those for
the dip and variation.) I was in the habit of carry-
ing it strapped across my shoulders, but had taken it
off on entering the canoe, to reduce the upper weight.
The results of jQOst of the observations for latitude
and longitude had been registered in the sketch books,
60 that we preserved the requisites for the construe-

268

Thirty Years

tion of the chart. The meteorological observations,
not having been copied, were lost. My companions,
Dr. BichardsoD, Mr. Back, and Mr. Hood, had been
80 careful in noting every occurrence in their journals,
that the loss of mine could fortunately be well sup-
plied. These friends immediately offered me their
documents, and every assistance in drawing up another
narrative, of which kindness I availed myself at the
earliest opportunity afterwards.

September 15. — The rest of the party were brought
across this morning, and we were delighted to find
Belanger so much recovered as to be able to proceed,
but we could not set out until noon, as the men had
to prepare substitutes for the slings which were lost
yesterday. Soon after leaving the encampment we
discerned a herd of deer, and after a long chase a fine
male was killed by Perrault; several others were
wounded, but they escaped. After this we passed
round the north end of a branch of the lake, and as-
cended the Willingham Mountains, keeping near the
border of the lake. These hills were steep, craggy,
and covered with snow. We encamped at seven, and
enjoyed a substantial meal. The party were in good
spirits this evening at the recollection of having cross-
ed the rapid, and being in possession of provision for
the next day. Besides we had taken the precaution
of bringing away the skin of the deer to eat when

In the Arctic Regions.

269

the meat should fail. The temperature at six P.M.
was 30";

We started at seven next morning and marched un-
til ten, when the appearance of a few willows, peeping
through the snow, induced us to halt and breakfast.
Re-commencing the journey at noon, we passed over a
more rugged country, where the hills were separated
by deep ravines, whose steep sides were equally diffi-
cult to descend and to ascend.

The party was quite fatigued, and we encamped,
having come ten miles and three-quarters. We ob-
served many summer deer roads, and some recent
tracks. Some marks that had been put up by the
Indians were also noticed. We have since learned
that this is a regular deer pass, and on that account,
annually frequented by the Copper Indians. The
lake is called by them Contwoy-to, or Bum Lake, in
consequence of Mr. Hearne having here given the In-
dians who accompanied him some of that liquor.
They do not get fish here

We walked next day over a more level country, but
it was strewed with large stones. These galled our
feet a good deal ; we contrived, however, to wade
through the snow at a tolerably quick pace until five
P.M., having made twelve miles and a half. We had
made to-day our proper course, south by east, which
we could not venture upon doing before, for fear ot

270

Thirty Years

falling again upon some branch of the Contwoy-to.
Some deer were seen in the morning, but the hunters
failed of killing an^^ and in the afternoon we fell into
the track of a large herd, which had passed the day
before, but did not overtake them. In consequence
of this want of success we had no breakfast, and but a
scanty supper ; but we allayed the pangs of hunger,
by eating pieces of singed hide. A little tripe de roche
was also obtained. These would have satisfied us in
ordinary times, but we were now almost exhausted by
slender fare and travel, and our appetites had become
ravenous. W« looked, however, with humble confi-
dence to the great Author and Giver of all good, for
a continuance of the support which had hitherto been
always supplied to us at our greatest need. The
thermometer varied to-day between 25'' and 28°.
The wind blew fresh from the south.

On the 18th the atmosphere was hazy, but the day
was more pleasant for walking than usual. The coun-
try was level and gravelly, and the snow very deep.
We went for a short time along a deeply beaten road,
made by the reindeer, which turned suddenly off to
the south-west, which was a direction so wide of our
course that we could not venture upon following it.
All the iimall lakes were frozen, and we marched across
those which lay in our track. We supped off the
tripe de roche which had been gathered during our

In the Arctic Regions,

271

halts in the course of the march. Thermometer at six
P.M. 32°.

Showers of snow fell without intermission through
the night, but they ceased in the morning, and we set
out at the usual hour. The men were very faint from
hunger, and marched with difficulty, having to oppose
a fresh breeze, and to wade through the snow two feet
deep. We gained, however, ten miles by four o'clock,
and then encamped. The canoe was unfortunately
broken by the fall of the person who had it in charge.
No tripe de rocJie was seen to-day, but in clearing the
snow to pitch the tents we found a quantity of Ice-
land moss, which was boiled for supper. This weed,
not having been soaked, proved so bitter, that few of
the party could eat more than a few spoonfuls of it.

Our blankets did not suffice this evening to keep us
in tolerable warmth ; the slightest breeze seeming to
pierce through our debilitated frames. The reader
will, probably, be desirous to know how we passed our
time in such a comfortless situation : the first opera-
tion after encamping was to thaw our frozen shoes, if
a sufficient fire could be made, and dry ones were put
on ; each person then wrote his notes of the daily oc-
currences, and evening prayers were read ; as soon as
supper was prepared it was eaten, generally in the
dark, and we went to bed, and kept up a cheerful con-
versation until our blankets were thawed by the heat

272

Thirty Years

of our bodies, and we had gathered sufficient warmth
to enable us to fall asleep. On many nights we had
not even the luxury of gonig to bed in dry clothes, for
when the fire was insufficient to dry our shoes, we
durst not venture to pull them off, lest they should
freeze so hard as to be unfit to put on in the morning,
and, therefore, inconvenient to carry.

On the 20th we got into a hilly country, and the
marching became much more laborious : even the
stoutest experienced great difficulty in climbing the
craggy eminences. Mr. Hood was particularly weak,
and was obliged to relinquish his station of second in
the line, which Dr. Bichardson now took, to direct the
leading man in keeping the appointed course. I was
also unable to keep pace with the men, who put forth
their utmost speed, encouraged by the hope, which
our reckoning had led us to form, of seeing Point Lake
in the evening, but we were obliged to encamp with-
out gaining a view of it. We had not seen either
deer or their tracks through the day, and this circum-
stance, joined to the disappointment of not discovering
the lake, rendered our voyagers very desponding, and
the meagre supper of tripe de roche was little calcu-
lated to elevate their spirits. They now threatened
to throw &^^Ry their bundles, and quit us, which rash
act they would probably have done, if they had known
what track to pursue.

In the Arctic Regions.

273

Sept. 21. — We set out at seven this morning in
dark foggy weather, and changed our course two
points to the westward. Tne party were very feeble,
and the men much dispirited ; we made slow pro
gressj having to march over a hilly and very rugged
country.

Just before noon the sun beamed through the haze
for the first time for six days, and we obtained an ob-
servation in latitude Q5° 7' 06" N., which was six
miles to the southward of that part of Point Lake to
which our course was directed. By this observation
we discovered that we had kept to the eastward of the
proper course, which may be attributed partly to the
difficulty of preserving a straight line through an un-
known country, unassisted by celestial observations,
and in such thick weather, that our view was often
limited to a few hundred yards ; but chiefly to our
total ignorance of the amount of the variation of the
compass.

We altered the course immediately to west-south-
west, and fired guns to apprize the hunters who were
out of our view, and ignorant of our having done so.
After walking about two miles we put up to collect
the stragglers. Two partridges were killed, and these
with some tripe de roche, furnished our supper. Not-
withstanding a full explanation was given to the men

of the reasons for alterinp: the courso, and they were

12*

274

TJiirly Years

assured that the observation had enabled us to disco-
ver our exact distance from Fort Enterprize, they
could not divest themselves of the idea of our having
lost our way, and a gloom was spread over every coun-
tenance. At this encampment Dr. Richardson was
obliged to deposit his specimens of plants and minerals,
collected on the sea-coast, being unable to carry them
any further. The way made to-day was five miles
and a quarter.

Sept. 22. — After walking about two miles this morn-
ing, we came upon the borders of a large lake, whose
extremities could not be discerned in consequence of
the density of the atmosphere ; but as its shores seem-
ed to approach nearer to each other to the southward
than to the northward, we determined on tracing it
in that direction. We were grieved at finding the
lake expand very much beyond the contracted part we
had first seen, and incline now to the eastward of
south. As it was considered more than probable, from
the direction and size of the body of water we were
now tracing, that it was a branch of Point Lake ; and
as, in any case, we knew that by passing round its
south end, we must shortly come to the Copper-Mine
River, our course was continued in that direction.
The appearance of some dwarf pines and willows, lar-
ger than usual, induced us to suppose the river was
near. We encamped early, having come eight miles.

In the Arctic Regions.

275

Our supper consisted of tripe de roche aud half a par-
tridge each.

Our progress next day was extremely slow, from the
difficulty of managing the canoe in passing over the
hills, as the breeze was fresh. Peltier, who had it in
charge, having received several severe falls, became
impatient, and insisted on leaving his burden, as it
had already been much injured by the accidents of
this day ; and no arguments we could use were suffi-
cient to prevail on him to continue carrying it. Vail-
lant was, therefore, directed to take it, and we proceed-
ed forward. Having found he got on very well, and
was walking even faster than Mr. Hood could, in his
present debilitated state, I pushed forward to stop the
rest of the party, who had got out of our sight during
the delay which the discussion about the canoe had
occasioned. I accidentally passed the body of the men,
and followed the tracks of two persons, who had sepa-
rated from the rest, until two P.M., when, not seeing
any person, I retraced my steps, and on my way met
Dr. Richardson, who had also missed the party whilst
he was employed gathering tripe de roche^ and we
went back together in search of them. We found
they had halted among some willows, where they had
picked up some pieces of skin, and a few bones of deer
that had been devoured by the wolves last spring.
They had rendered the bones friable by burning, and

276

Thirty Tears

eaten them, as well as the skiD ; and several of them
had added their old shoes to the repast. Peltier and
Yaillant were with them, having left the canoe, which,
they said, was so completely broken by another fall,
as to be rendered incapable of repair, and entirely use-
less. The anguish this intelligence occasioned may be
conceived, but it is beyond my power to describe it.
Impressed, however, with the necessity of taking it
forward, even in the state these men represented it to
be, we urgently desired them to fetch it ; but they de-
clined going, and the strength of the officers was inade- '
quate to the task. To their infatuated obstinacy on
this occasion, a great portion of the melancholy circum-
stances which attended our subsequent progress may,
perhaps, be attributed. The men now seemed to have
lost all hope of being preserved ; and all the argu-
ments we could use failed in stimulating them to the
least exertion. After consuming the remains of the
bones and horns of the deer we resumed our march,
iKud, in the evening, reached a contracted part of the
lake, which perceiving to be shallow, we forded aTid
encamped on the opposite side. Heavy rain began
soon afterwards, and continued all the night. On the
following rooming the rain had so wasted the snow,
that the tracks of Mr. Back and his companions, who
had gone before with the hunters, were traced with
difficulty ; and the frequent showers during the day

-.JL: ^Jl^^^^^ii,^.

In the Arctic Regions.

277

almost obliterated them. The men became furious at
the apprehension of being deserted by the hunters, and
some of the strongest throwing down their bundles,
prepared to set out after them, intending to leave the
more weak to follow as they could. The entreaties
and threats of the officers, however, prevented their
executing this mad scheme ; but not before Solomon
Belanger was despatched with orders for Mr. Back to
halt until we should join him. Soon afterwards a thick
fog came on, but we continued our march and overtook
Mr. Back, who had been detained in consequence of
his companions having followed some recent tracks of
deer. After halting an hour, during which we refresh-
ed ourselves with eating our old shoes and a few scraps
of leather, we set forward in the hope of ascertaining
whether an adjoining piece of water was the Copper-
Mine Kiver or not, but were soon compelled to return
and encamp, for- fear of a separation of the party, as
we could not see each other at ten yards' distance.
The fog diminishing towards the evening, Augustus
was sent to examine the water, but having lost his
way he did not reach the tents before midnight, when
he brought the informati'^n of its being a lake. We
supped upon tripe de rochej and enjoyed a comforta-
ble fire, having found some pines, seven or eight feet
high, in a valley near the encampment. .

The bounty of Providence was most seasonably
mnnifoRtnd to ua next morning, in our killing five

278

Thirty Years

small deer out of a herd, which came in sight as we
were on the point of starting. This unexpected sup-
ply reanimated the drooping spirits of our men, and
filled every heart with gratitude.

The voyagers instantly petitioned for a day's rest,
which we were most reluctant to grant, being aware
of the importance of every moment at this critical
period of our journey. But they so. earnestly and
strongly pleaded their recent sufferings, and their con-
viction, that the quiet enjoyment of two substantial
meals, after eight days' famine, would enable them to
proceed next day more vigorously, that we could not
resist their entreaties. The flesh, the skins, and even
the contents of the stomachs of the deer were equally
distributed among the party by Mr. Hood, who had
volunteered, on the departure of Mr. Wentzel, to per-
form the duty of issuing the provision. This invidious
task he had all along performed with great impartiali-
ty, but seldom without producing some grumbling
amongst the Canadians ; and on the present occasion,
the hunters were displeased that the heads, and some
other parts, had not been added to their portions. It
is proper to remark, that Mr. Hood always took the
smallest portion for his own mess, but this weighed
little with these men, as long as their own appetites
remained unsatisfied. We all suffered much inconve-
nience from eating animal food after our long absti-
nence, but particularly those. men who indulged them-

In the Arctic Regions.

279

selves beyond moderation. We learned, in the even-
ing, that the Canadians, with their usual thoughtless-
ness, had consumed above a third of their portions of
meat.

We set out early on the 26th, and, after walking
about three miles along the lake, came to the river,
w^hich we at once recognized, from its size, to be the
Copper-Mine. It flowed to the northward, and after
winding about five miles, terminated in Point Lake.
Its current was swift, and there were two rapids in
this part of its course, but in a canoe we could have
crossed with ease and safety. These rapids, as well as
every other part of the river, were carefully examined
in search of a ford ; but finding none, the expedients
occurred, of attempting to cross on a raft made of the
willows which were growing there, or in a vessel
framed with willows, and covered with the canvass of
the tents ; but both these schemes were abandoned,
through the obstinacy of the interpreters and the
naost experienced voyagers, who declared that they
would prove inadequate to the conveyance of the
party, and that much time would be lost in the
attempt. The men, in fact, did not believe that this
was the Copper-Mine Eiver, and so little confidence
had they in our reckoning, and so much had they be-
wildered themseives on the march, that some of them
asserted it was Hood's River, and others that it was
the Bethe-tessy, (a river which rises from a lake to the

I

i

280

Thirty Tears

northward of Rum Lake, and holds a course to the
sea parallel to the Copper-Mine.) In short, their
despondency had returned, and they all despaired of
seeing Fort Enterprize again. However, the steady
assurances of the officers, that we were actually on the
hanks of the Copper-Mine Biver, and that the dis-
tance to Fort Enterprize did not exceed forty miles,
made some impression upon them, which was increas-
ed upon our finding some bear-herry plants, which is
reported by the Indians not to grow to the eastward
of that river. Then they deplored their folly and im-
patience in breaking the canoe, being all of opinion,
that had it not been so completely demolished on the
23d, it might have been repaired sufficiently to take
the party over. We again closely interrogated Pel-
tier and Yaillant as to its state,' with the intention of
sending for it ; but they persisted in the declaration,
that it was in a totally unserviceable condition.
St. Germain being again <>alled upon, to endeavor to
construct a canoe frame from willows, stated that he
was unable to make one sufficiently large. It became
necessary, therefore, to search for pines of sufficient
size to form a raft ; and being aware that such trees
grow on the borders of Point Lake, we considered it
best to trace its shores in search of them ; we, there-
fore, resumed our march, carefully looking, but iu
vain, for a fordable part, and encamped at the east
end of Point Lake.

In the Arctic Regions,

281

CHAPTER XI.

As there was little danger of our losing tbe path
of our hunters whilst we coasted the shores of this
lake, I determined on again sending Mr. Back forward,
with the interpreters, to hunt. I had in view, in this
arrangement, the further ohject of enahling Mr. Back
to get across the lake with two of these men, to con-
vey the earliest possihle account of our situation to
the Indians. Accordingly I instructed him to halt at
the first pines he should come to, and then prepare a
raft ; and if his hunters had killed animals, so that the
party could be supported whilst we were making our
raft, he was to cross immediately with St. Germain and
Beauparlant, and send the Indians to us as quickly as
possible with supplies of meat.

We had this evening the pain of discovering that
two of our men had stolen part of the officers' provi-
sion, which had been allotted to us with strict impar-
tiality. This conduct was the more reprehensible, as
it was plain that we were suffering, even in a greater

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Tliirty Years

degree than themselves, from the effects of famine,
owing to our being of a less robust habit, and less ac-
customed to privations. We had no means of punish-
ing this crime, but by the threat that they should for-
feit their wages, which had now ceased to operate.

Mr. Back and his companions set out at six in the
morning, and we started at seven. As the snow had
entirely disappeared, and there were no means of dis-
tinguishing the footsteps of stragglers, I gave strict
orders, previously to our setting out, for all the party
to keep together : and especially I desired the two
Esquimaux not to leave us, they having often strayed
in search of the remains of animals. Our people, how-
ever, through despondency, had become careless and
disobedient, and had ceased to dread punishment, or
hope for reward. Much time was lost in halting and
firing guns to collect them, but the labor of walking
was so much lightened by the disappearance of the
snow, that we advanced seven or eight miles along the
lake before noon, exclusive of the loss of distance in
rounding its numerous bays. At length we came to
an arm, running away to the north-east, and apparent-
ly connected with the lake which wo had coasted on
the 22d, 23d, and 24th of the month.

The idea of again rounding such an extensive piece
of water and of traveling over so barren a country was
dreadful, and we feared that other arms, equally large,

In the Arctic Regions,

)
283

might obstruct our path, and that the strength of the
party would entirely fail, long before we could reach
the only part where we were certain of finding wood,
distant in a direct line twenty-five miles. While we
halted to consider of this subject, and to collect the-
party, the carcass of a deer was discovered in the cleft
of a rock into which it had fallen in the spring. It
was putrid, but it was little less acceptable to us on
that account, in our present circumstances ; and a
fire being kindled, a large portion of it was devoured
on the spot, affording us an unexpected breakfast, for
in order to husband our small remaining portion of
meat, we had agreed to make only one scanty meal a
day. The men, cheered by this unlooked-for supply,
became sanguine in the hope of being able to cross the
stream on a raft of willows, although they had before
declared such a project impracticable, and they un-
animously entreated us to return back to the rapid,
a request which accorded with our own opinion, and
was therefore acceded to. Cr6dit and Junius, how-
ever, were missing, and it was also necessary to send
notice of our intention to Mr. Back and his party.
Augustus being promised a reward, undertook the task,
and we agreed to wait for him at the rapid. It was
supposed he could not fail meeting with the two
stragglers on his way to or from Mr. Back, as it was
likely they would keep on the borders of the lake. He

284

Thirty Years

accordingly set out after Mr. Back, whilst we returned
about a mile towards the rapid, and encamped in a
deep valley amongst some large willows. We supped
on the remains of the putrid deer, and the men having
gone to the spot where it was found, scraped together
the contents of its intestines which were scattered on
the rock, and added them to their meal. . We also
enjoyed the luxury to-day of eating a large quantity
of excellent blueberries and cranberries, (yaccinium
uUginosum and v. Vitus idcea,) which were laid bare
by the melting of the snow, but nothing could allay
our inordinate appetites.

In the night we heard the report of Credit's gun in
answer to our signal muskets, and he rejoined us in
the morning, but we got no intelligence of Junius.
We set out about an hour after daybreak, and en-
camped at two P. M. between the rapids, where the
river was about one hundred and thirty yards wide,
being its narrowest part.

Eight deer were seen by Michel and Credit, who
loitered behind the rest of the party, but they could
not approach them. A great many shots were fired
by those in the rear at partridges, but they missed, or
at least did not choose to add what they killed to the
common stock. We subsequently learned that the
hunters often secreted the partridges they shot, and
eat them unknown to the officers. Some tripe de

In the Artie Begions.

285

roche was collected, which we boiled for supper, with
the moiety of the remainder of our deer's meat. The
men commenced cutting the willows for the con-
struction of the raft. As an excitement to exertion,
I promised a reward of three hundred livres to the
first person who should convey a line across the river,
by which the raft could be managed in transporting
the party.

September 29. — Strong south-east winds with fog
in the morning, more moderate in the evening. Tem-
perature of the rapid 38°. The men began at an early
hour to bind the willows in fagots for the construction
of the raft, and it was finished by seven ; but as the
willows were green, it proved to be very little buoyant,
and was unable to support more than one man at a
time. Even on this, however, we hoped the whole
party might be transported, by hauling it from one
side to the other, provided a line could be carried to
the other bank. Several attempts were made by Be-
langer and Benoit, the strongest men of the party, to
convey the raft across the stream, but they failed for
want of oars. A pole constructed by tying the tent
poles together, was too short to reach the bottom at
a short distance from the shore ; and a paddle which
had been carried from the sea coast by Dr. Richardson,
did not possess sufficient power to move the raft in
opposition to a strong breeze, which blew from the

1

.^1

t -

286

Thirty Years

opposite shore. All the men siiflfered extremely from
the coldness of the water, in which they were neces-
sarily immersed up to the waists, in their endeavors to
aid Belanger and Benoit ; and having witnessed re-
peated failures, they began to consider the scheme as
hopeless. At this time Dr. Kichardson, prompted by
a desire of relieving his suffering companions, proposed
to swim across the stream with a line, and to haul the
raft over. He launched into the stream with the line
round his middle, but when he had got a short dis-
tance from the bank, his arms became benumbed with
cold, and he lost the power of moving them ; still he
persevered, and turning on his back, had nearly gained
the opposite bank, when his legs also became power-
less, and to our infinite alarm we beheld him sink.
We instantly hauled upon the line and he came again
on the surface, and was gradually drawn ashore in an
almost lifeless state. Being rolled up in blankets, he
was placed before a good fire of willows, and fortu-
nately was just able to speak sufficiently to give some
slight directions respecting the manner of treating
him. He recovered strength gradually, and by the
blessing of God was enabled fn the course of a few
hours to converse, and by the evening was sufficiently
recovered to remove into the tent. We then resrretted
to learn, that the skin of his whole left side was
deprived of feeling in consequence of exposure to too

In the Arctic Regions,

287

great heat. He did not perfectly recover the sensa-
tion of that side until the following summer. I can-
not describe what every one felt at beholding the
skeleton which the Doctor's debilitated frame exhibi-
ted. When he stripped, the Canadians simultaneous-
ly exclaimed, " Ah que nous sommes maigres." I
shall best explain his state and that of the party, by
the following extract from his journal : "It may be
worthy of remark, that I would have had little hesita-
tion in any former period of my life, of plunging into-
water even below 38° Fahrenheit ; but at this time
I was reduced almost to skin and bone, and like the
rest of the party, suffered from degrees of cold that
would have been disregarded whilst in health and
vigor. During the whole of our march we experienced
that no quantity of clothing could keep us warm
whilst we fasted, but on those occasions on which we
were enabled to go to bed with full stomachs, we
passed the night in a warm and comfortable manner."

In following the detail of our friend's narrow escape,
I have omitted to mention, that when he was about to
step into the water, he put his foot on a dagger, which
cut him to the bone ; but this misfortune could not
stop him from attempting the execution of his gene-
ous undertaking.

In the evening Augustus came in. He had walked
a day and a half beyond the place from whence we

.#

2.CQ

Thirty Years

turned back, but had neither seen Junius nor Mr.
Back. Of the former he had seen no traces, but he
had followed the tracks of Mr. Back's party for a con-
siderable distance, until the hardness of the ground
rendered them imperceptible. Junius was well
equipped with ammunition, blankets, knives, a kettle,
and other necessaries ; and it was the opinion of Au-
gustus, that when he found he could not rejoin the
party, he would endeavor to gain the woods oc the
west end of Point Lake, and follow the river until he
fell in with the Esquimaux, who frequent its mouth.
The Indians too, with whom we have since conversed
upon this subject, are confident that he would be able
to subsist himself during the winter. Or6dit, on his
hunting excursion ^ to-day, found a cap, which our
people recognized to belong to one of the hunters who
had left us in the spring. This circumstance produced
the conviction of our being on the banks of the Cop-
per-Mine River, which all the assertions of the officers
had hitherto failed to do with some of the party ; and
it had the happy eflfect of reviving their spirits con-
siderably. We consumed the last of our deer's meat
this evening at supper.

Next morning the men went out in search of dry
willows, and collected eight large fagots, with which
they formed a more buoyant raft than the former, but
the wind being still adverse and strong) they delayed

In the Arctic Regions.

289

attempting to cross until a more favorable opportunity.
Pleased, however, with the appearance of this raft,
they collected some tripe de roche, and made a cheer-
ful supper. Dr. Bichardson was gaining strength, but
his leg was much swelled and very painful. Aff ob-
servation for latitude placed the encampment in
Q^"" 00' 00" N., the longitude being 112° 20* 00" W.,
deduced from the last observation.

On the morning of the 1st of October, the wind was
strong, and the weather as unfavorable as before for
crossing on the raft. We were rejoiced to see Mr.
Back and his party in the afternoon. They had tra-
ced the lake about fifteen miles farther than we did,
and found it undoubtedly connected, as we had sup-
posed, with the lake we fell upon on the 22d of Sep-
tember, and dreading, as we had done, the idea of
coasting its barren shores, they returned to make an
attempt at crossing here. St. Germain now proposed
to make a canoe of the fragments of painted canvass,
in which we wrapped up our bedding. This scheme
appearing practicable, a party was sent to our encamp-
ment of the 24th and 25 th last, to collect pitch amongst
the small pines that grew there, to pay over the seams
of the canoe.

In the afternoon we had a heavy fall of snow, which
continued all the night. A small quantity of tripe de
roche was gathered ; and Credit, who had been hunt-

13

290

Tliirty Years

ing, brought in the antlers and back bono of a deer
which had been killed in the summer. The wolves
and birds of prey had picked them clean, but there
still remained a quantity of the spinal marrow which
they had not been able to extract. This, although
putrid, was esteemed a valuable prize, and the spine
being divided into portions, was distributed equally.
After eating the marrow, which was so acrid as to ex-
crociate the lips, we rendered the bones friable by burn-
ing, and ate them also.

On the following morning the ground was covered
with snow to the depth of a foot and a half, and the
weather was very stormy. These circumstances ren-
dered the men again extremely despondent ; a settled
gloom hung over their countenances, and they refused
to pick tripe de roche, choosing rather to go entirely
without ea^ng, than to make any exertion. The
party which went for gum returned early in the morn-
ing without having found any ; but St. Germain said
he could still make the canoe with the willows cover-
ed with the canvass, and removed with Adam to a
clump of willows for that purpose. Mr. Back accom-
panied them to stimulate his exertion, as we feared
the lowness of his spirits would cause him to be slow
in his operations. Augustus went to fish at the rapid,
but a large trout having carried away his bait, we had
nothing to replace it.

In the Arctic Regions.

291

The snow storm continued all the night, and during
the forenoon of the 3d. Having persuaded the people
to gather some tripe de roche, I partook of a meal
with them ; and afterwards set out with the inten-
tion of going to St. Germain to hasten his operations,
but though he was only three-quarters of a mile dis-
tant, I spent three hours in a vain attempt to reach
him, my strength being unequal to ^-ho labor of wad-
ing through the deep snow ; and I returned quite ex-
hausted, and much shaken by the numerous falls 1
had got. My associates were all in the same debilita-
ted state, and poor Hood was reduced to a perfect
shadow, from the severe bowel complaints which the
trijoe de roche never failed to give him. Back was so
feeble as to require the support of a stick in walking ;
and Dr. Richardson had lameness superadded to weak-
ness. The voyagers were somewhat stronger than
ourselves, but more indisposed to exertion, on account
of their despondency. The sensation of hunger was
no longer felt by any of us, yet we were scarcely able
to converse upon any other subject than the pleasures
of eating. We were much indebted to Hepburn at
this crisis. The officers were unable from weakness
to gather tripe de roche themselves, and Samandr^,
who had acted as our cook on the journey from the
coast, sharing in the despair of the rest of the Cana-
dians, refused to make the slightest exertions. Hep-

292

Thirty Tears

burn, on ilS contrary, animated by a firm reliance on
the beneficence of the Supreme Being, tempered with
resignation to his will, was indefatigable in his exer-
tions to serve us, and daily collected all the tripe de
roche that was used in the officers' mess. Mr. Hood
could not partake of this miserable fare, and a par-
tridge which had been reserved for him was, I lament
to say, this day stolen by one of the men.

Oct. 4. — The canoe being finished, it was brought
to the encampment, and the whole party being assem-
bled in anxious expectation on the beach, St. Ger-
main embarked, and amidst our prayers for his success,
succeeded in reaching the opposite shore. The canoe
was then drawn back again, and another person trans-
ported, and in this manner, by drawing it backwards
and forwards, they were all conveyed over without any
seriou. accident. By these frequent traverses the ca-
noe was materially injured ; and latterly it filled each
time with water before reaching the shore, so that aU
our garments and bedding were wet, and there was
not a sufficiency of willows upon the side on which
we now were, to make a fire to dry them.

That no time might be lost in procuring relief, I
immediately despatched Mr. Back with St. Germain,
Solomon Belanger, and Beauparlant, to search for the
Indians, directing him to go to Fort Enterprize, where
we expected they would be, or where, at least, a note

In the Arctic Regions.

293

from Mr. Wentzel would be found to direct us in our
search for ihem. If St. Germain should kill any ani-
mals on his way, a portion of the meat was to be
put up securely for us, and conspicuous marks placed
over it.

It is impossible to imagine a more gratifying change
than was produced in our voyagers after we were all
safely landed on the southern banks of the river.
Their spirits immediately revived, each of them shook
the officers cordially by the hand, and declared they
now considered the worst of their difficulties over, as
they did not doubt of reaching Fort Enterprize in a
few days, even in their feeble condition. We had in-
deed every reason to be grateful, and our joy would
have been complete were it not mingled with sincere
regret at the separation of our poor Esquimaux, the
faithful Junius.

The want oi tripe de roche caused us to go supper-
less to bed. Showers of snow fell frequently during
the night. The breeze was light next morning, the
weather cold and clear. We were all on foot by day-
break, but from the frozen state of our tents and bed
clothes, it was long before the bundles could be made,
and as usual the men lingered over a small fire they
had kindled, so that it was eight o'clock before we
started. Our advance from the depth of the snow was
slow, and about noon coming to a spot where there

294

Tliirty Tears

was some tripe de roche, we stopped to collect it, and
breakfasted. Mr. Hood, who was now very feeble, and
Dr. Richardson, who attached himself to him, walked
together at a gentle pace in the rear of the party. I
kept with the foremost men, to cause them to halt oc-
casionally, until the stragglers came up. Resuming
our march after breakfast, we followed the track of
Mr. Back's party, and encamped early, as all of us
were much fatigued, particularly Cr6dit, who having
to-day carried the men's tent, it being his turn to do
so, was so exhausted, that when he reached the en-
campment he was unable to stand. The ti^ipe de roche^
disagreed with this man and with Vaillant, in conse-
quence of which they were the first whose strength
totally failed. We had a small quantity of this weed
in the evening, and the rest of our supper was made
up of scraps of roasted leather. The distance walked
to-day was six miles. As Credit was very weak in
the morning, his load was reduced to little more than
his personal luggage, consisting of his blanket, shoes,
and gun. Previous to setting out, the whole party
ate the remains of their old shoes, and whatever
scraps of leather they had, to strengthen their stomachs
for the fatigue of the day's journey. We left the en-
campment at nine, and pursued our route over a range
of bleak hills. The wind having increased to a strong
gale in the course of the morning, became piercingly

In the Arctic Regions,

295

J.

cold, and the drift rendered it difficult for tliose in the
rear to follow the track over the heights, whilst in the
valleys, where it was sufficiently marked, from the
depth of the snow, the labor of walking was propor-
tionably great. Those in advance made as usual fre-
quent halts, yet being unable from the severity of the
weather to remain long still, they were obliged to move
on before the rear could come up, and the party, of
course, straggled very much.

About noon Samandrd coming up, informed us that
Credit and Vaillant could advance no further. Some
willows being discovered in a valley near to us, I pro-
posed to halt the party there whilst Dr. Richardson
went back to visit them. I hoped too, that when the
sufferers received the information of a fire being kin-
dled at so short a distance, they would be cheend, and
use their utmost efforts to reach it, but this proved a
vain hope. The Doctor found Valliant about a mile
and a half in the rear, much exhausted with cold and
fatigue. Having encouraged him to advance to the
fire, after repeated solicitations he made the attempt,
but fell down amongst the deep snow at every step.
Leaving him in this situation, the Doctor went about
half a mile farther back, to the spot where Credit was
said to have halted, and the track being nearly oblite-
rated by the snow drift, it became unsafe for him to
go further. Returning he passed Vaillant, who hav-

296

Thirty Tears

ing moved only a few yards in his absence, had fallen
down, was unable to rise, and could scarcely ans\»er
his questions. Being unable to afford him any effec-
tual assistance, he helstened on to inform us of his situ-
ation. When J. B. Belanger had heard the melan-
choly account, he went immediately to aid Vaillant,
and bring up his burden. Respecting Credit, we were
informed by Samandrd, that he had stopped a short
distance behind Vaillant, but that his intention was
to return to the encampment of the preceding even-
ing.

■ When Belanger came back with Yaillant's load, he
informed us that he had found him lying on his back,
benumbed with cold, and incapable of being roused.
The stoutest men of the party were now earnestly en-
treated to bring him to the fire, but they declared
themselves unequal to the task ; and, on the contrary,
urged me to allow them to throw down their loads,
and proceed to FortEnterprize with the utmost speed.
A compliance with their desire would have caused the
loss of the whole party, for the men were totally ig-
norant of the course to be taken, and none of the offi-
cers, who could have directed the march, were suffi-
ciently strong to keep up at the pace they would then
walk ; besides, even supposing them to have found
their way, the strongest men would certainly have
deserted the weak. Something, however, was abso-

In the Arctic Regions.

297

lately necessary to be done, to relieve them as much
as possible from their burdens, and the officers con-
sulted on the subject. Mr. Hood and Dr. Eichardson
proposed to remain behind, with a single attendant,
at the first place where sufficient wood and tripe de
roche should be found for ten days' consumption ; and
that I should proceed as expeditiously as possible with
the men to the house, and thence send them imme-
diate relief. They strongly urged that this arrange-
ment would contribute to the safety of the rest of the
party, by relieving them from the burden of a tent,
and several other articles ; and that they might afford
aid to Credit, if he should unexpectedly come up. I
was distressed beyond description at the thought of
leaving them in such a dangerous situation, and for a
long time combated their proposal ; but they strenu-
ously urged, that this step afforded the only chance of
safety for the party, and I reluctantly acceded to it.
The ammunition, of which we had a small barrel,
was also to be left with them, and it was hoped that
this deposit would be a strong inducement for the
Indians to venture across the barren grounds to their
aid. We communicated this resolution to the men,
who were cheered at the slightest prospect of allevia-
tion of their present miseries, and they promised with
great appearance of earnestness to return to those offi-
cers, upon the first supply of food.

13*

298

Thirty Years

The party then moved on ; Vuillant's blanket and
other nccoBsarios were left in the track, at the request
of the Canadians, without any hope, however, of his
being able to reach them. After marching until dusk
without seeing a favorable place for encamping, night
compelled us to take shelter under the lee of a hill,
amongst somo willows, with which, after many at-
tempts, we at length made a fire. It was not suffi-
cient, however, to warm the whole party, much less to
thaw our shoes ; and the weather not permitting the
gathering of tripe de rochet we had nothing to cook.
, The painful retrospection of the melancholy events
of the day banished sleep, and we shuddered as wo con-
templated the dreadful efft^cts of this bitterly cold night
on our two companions, if still living. Some faint
hopes were entertained of Credit's surviving the storm,
as be was provided with a good blanket, and had
leather to eat.

The weather was mild next morning. We left the
encampment at nine, and a little before noon came to
a pretty extensive thicket of small willows, near which
there appeared a supply of tripe de roche on the face
of the rocks. At this place Dr. Eichardson and Mr.
Hood determined to remain, with John Hepburn, who
volunteered to stop with them. The tent was securely
pitched, a few willows collected, and the ammunition
a nd all other articles were deposited, except each man's

In the Arctic Regions.

299

clothing, one tent, a sufiicicncy of ammunition for the
journey, and the officer's journals. I had only one
blanket, which was carried for mo, and two pair of
shoes. Tlie offer was now made for any of the men,
who felt themselves too weak to proceed, to remain
with the officers, but none of them accepted it. Mi-
chel alone felt some inclination to do so. After wo
had united in thanksgiving and prayers to Almighty
Ood, I separated from my companions, deeply afflicted
that a train of melancholy circumstances should have
demanded of me the severe trial of parting from friends
in such a condition, who had become endeared to me
by their constant kindness, and co-operation, and a
participation of numerous sufferings. This trial I
could not have been induced to undergo, but for the
reasons they had so strongly urged the day before, to
which my own judgment assented, and for the san-
guine hope I felt of either finding a supply of pro-
vision at Fort Enterprize, or meeting the Indians in
the immediate vicinity of that place, according to my
arrangements with Mr. Wentzel and Akaitcho. Pre-
viously to our starting, Peltier and Benoit repeated
their promises, to return to them with provision, if
any should be found at the house, or to guide the
Indians to them, if any were met.

Greatly as Mr. Hood was exhausted, and, indeed,
incapable as he must have proved, of encountering the

'f

300

Thirty Years

fatigue of our next day's journey, so that I felt his
resolution to be prudent, I was sensible that his deter-
mination to remain, was mainly prompted by the dis-
interested and generous wish to remove impediments
to the progress of the rest of the party. Dr. Richard-
son and Hepburn, who were both in a state of strength
to keep pace with the men, beside this motive which
they shared with him, were influenced in their resolu-
tion to remain ; the former by the desire which had
distinguished his character, throughout the expedition,
of devoting himself to the succor of the weak, and
the latter by the zealous attachment he had ever
shewn towards his officers.
#• We set out without waiting to take any of the

tripe de roche, and walked at a tolerable pace, and in
an hour arrived at a fine group of pines, about a mile
and a quarter from the tent. We sincerely regretted
not having seen these before we had separated from
our companions, as they would have been better sup-
plied with fuel here, and there appeared to be more
tripe de roche than where we had left them.

Descending afterwards into a more level country,
we found the snow very deep, and the labor of wading
through it so fatigued the whole party, that we were
compelled to encamp, after a march of four miles and
a half. Belanger and Michel were left far behind,
and when they arrived at the encampment appeared

In the Arctic Begions.

301

quite exhausted. The former, bursting into tears,
declared his inability to proceed with the party, and
begged me to let him go back next morning to the
tent, and shortly afterwards Michel made the same
request. I was in hopes they might recover a little
strength by the night's rest, and therefore deferred
giving any permission until the morning. The sud-
den failure in the strength of these men cast a gloom
over the rest, which I tried in vain to remove, by re-
peated assnrances that the distance to Fort Enterprize
was short, and that we should, in all probability, reach
it in four days. Not being able to find any tripe de
roche, we drank an infusion of the Labrador tea plant,
(ledum palustre,) and ate a few morsels of burnt
leather for supper. We were unable to raise the tent,
and found its weight too great to carry it on ; we,
therefore, cut it up, and took a part of the canvass for
a cover. The night was bitterly cold, and though we
lay as close to each other as possible, having no shel-
ter, we could not keep ourselves sufficiently warm to
sleep. A strong gale came on after midnight, which
increased the severity of the weather. In the morning
Belanger and Michel renewed their request to be per-
mitted to go back to the tent, assuring me they were
Btill weaker than on the preceding evening, and less
capable of going forward ; and they urged, that the
stopping at a place where there was a supply of tripe

■l^i"'

302

Thirty Years

de roche was their only chance of preserving life ; un-
der these circumstances, I could not do otherwise than
yield to their desire. I wrote a note to Dr. Richard-
son and Mr. Hood, informing them of the pines we
had passed, and recommending their removing thitheri
Having found that Michel was carrying a considerable
quantity of ammunition, I desired him to divide it
among my party, leaving him only ten balls and a lit-
tle shot, to kill any animals he might meet on his
way to the tent. This man was very particular in his
inquiries respecting the direction of the house, and
the course we meant to pursue ; he also said, that if
he should be able, he would go and search for Vail-
lant and Credit ; and he requested my permission to
take Vaillant's blanket, if he should find it, to which
I agreed, and mentioned it in my notes to the officers.
Scarcely were these arrangements finished, before
Perrault and Fontano were seized with a fit of dizzi-
ness, and betrayed other symptoms of extreme debility.
Some tea was quickly prepared for them, and after
drinking it, and eating a few morsels of burnt leather,
they recovered, and expressed their desire to go for-
ward ; but the other men, alarmed at what they had
just witnessed, became doubtful of their own strength,
and, giving way to absolute dejection, declared their
own inability to move. I now earnestly pressed upon
them the necessity of continuing our journey, as the

In the Arctic Regions,

303

only means of saving their own lives, as well as those
of oiir friends at the tent ; and, after much entreaty,
got them to set out at ten A.M. : Belanger and Michel
were left at the encampment, and proposed to start
shortly afterwards. By the time we had gone about
two hundred yards, Perrault became again dizzy, and
desired us to halt, which we did, until he, recovering,
proposed to march on. Ten minutes more had hardly
elapsed before he again desired us to stop, and, burst-
ing into tears, declared he was totally exhausted, and
unable to accompany us further. As the encampment
was not more than a quarter of a mile distant, we pro-
posed that he should return to it, and rejoin Belanger
and Michel, whom we knew to be still there, from
perceiving the smoke of a fresh fire ; and because they
had not made any preparation for starting when we
Jeft them. He readily acquiesced in the proposition,
and having taken a friendly leave of each of us, and
enjoined us to make all the haste we could in sending
relief, he turned back, keeping his gun and ammuni-
tion. We watched him until he was near to the fire,
and then proceeded. During these detentions, Augus-
tus becoming impatient of the delay, had walked on,
and we lost sight of him. The labor we experienced
in wading through the deep snow induced us to cross
a moderate sized lake, which lay in our track, but we
found this operation far more harassing. As the sur-

304

ITiirtij Years

,r%

face of the ice was perfectly smooth, we slipt at almost
every step, and were frequently blown down by the
wind with such force as to shake our whole frames.
Poor Fontano was completely exhausted by the la-
bor of making this traverse, and we made a halt until
his strength was recruited, by which time the party
was benumbed with cold. Proceeding again, he got
on tolerably well for a little time, but being again
seized with faintness and dizziness, he fell often, and
at length exclaimed that he could go no further. We
immediately stopped, and endeavored to encourage
him to persevere, until we should find some willows,
to encamp ; he insisted, however, that he could not
march any longer through this deep snow ; and said,
that if he should even reach our encampment this
evening, he must be left there, provided trijpe de roche
could not be procured to recruit his strength. The
poor man was overwhelmed with grief, and seemed de-
sirous to remain at that spot. We were about two
miles from the place where the other men had been
left, and as the track to it was beaten, we proposed to
him to return thither, as we thought it probable he
would find the men still there : at any rate he would
be able to get fuel to keep him warm during the night ;
and, on the next day, he could follow their track to
the officers' tent ; and, should the path be covered by
the snow, the pines we had passed yesterday would
guide him, as they were yet in view.

In the Arctic Begiona.

305

I cannot describe my anguish on the occasion of
separating from another companion under circumstan-
ces so distressing. There was, however, no alternative.
The extreme debility of the rest of the party, put the
carrying him quite out of the question, as he himself
admitted ; and it was evident that the frequent delays
he must occasion if he accompanied us, and did not
gain strength, must have endangered the lives of the
whole. By returning he had the prospect of getting
to the tent where trijpe de roche could be obtained,
which agreed with him better than with any other of
the party, and which he was always very assiduous in
gathering. After some hesitation he determined on
returning, and set out, having bid each of us farewell
in the tenderest manner. . We watched him with in-
expressible anxiety for some time, and were rejoiced to
find, though he had got on slowly, that he kept on his
legs better than before. Antonio Fontano was an
Italian, and had served many years in De Meuron's
regiment. He had spoken to me that very morning,
and after his first attack of dizziness, about his father ;
and had begged, that should he survive, I would take
him with me to England, and put him in the way of
reaching home.

The party was now reduced to five persons, Adam,
Peltier, Benoit, Samandrd, and myself. Continuing
the journey, we came, after an hour's walk, to some

306

TJdrty Years

willows, and encamped under the shelter of a rock,
having walked in the whole four miles and a half.
We made an attempt to gather some tripe de roche,
but could not, owing to the severity of the weather.
Our supper, therefore, consisted of tea and a few mor-
sels of leather.

Augustus did not make his appearance, but we felt
no alarm at his absence, supposing he would go to the
tent if he missed our track. Having fire, we procured
a little sleep. Next morning the breeze was light and
the weather mild, which enabled us to collect some
tripe de roche, and to enjoy the only meal we had for
four days. We derived great benefit from it, and
walked with considerably more ease than yesterday.
Without the strength it supplied, we should certainly
have been unable to oppose the strong breeze we had
in the afternoon. After walking about five miles, we
came upon the borders of Marten Lake, and were re-
joiced to find it frozen, so that we could continue oui
course straight for Fort Enterprize. We encamped at
the first rapid in Winter River amidst willows and al-
ders ; but these were so frozen, and the snow fell so thick,
that the men had great difficulty in making a fire.
This proving insufficient to warm us, or even thaw
our shoes, and having no food to prepare, we crept
under our blankets. The arrival in a well known part
raised the spirits of the men to a high pitch, and we

In the Arctic Regions,

307

kept up a cheerful conversation until sleep overpowered
U8. The night was very stormy, and the morning
scarcely less so ; but, being desirous to reach the
house to-day, we commenced our journey very early.
We were gratified by the sight of a large herd of rein-
deer on the side of the hill near the track, but our
only hunter, Adam, was too feeble to pursue them.
Our shoes and garments were stiffened by the frost,
and we walked in great pain until we arrived at some
stunted pines, at which we halted, made a good fire,
and procured the refreshment of tea. The weather
becoming fine in the afternoon, we continued our
journey, passed the Dog-rib Rock, and encamped
among a clump of pines of considerable growth, about
a mile further on. Here we enjoyed the comfort of a
large fire for the first time since our departure from
the sea coast ; but this gratification was purchased at
the expense of many severe falls that we had in cross-
ing a stony valley, to get to these pines. There was
no tripe de roche, and we drank tea and ate some of
our shoes for supper. Next morning, after taking the
usual repast of tea, we proceeded to the house. Mus-
ing on what we were likely to find there, our minds
were agitated between hope and fear, and, contrary to
the custom we had kept up, of supporting our spirits
by conversation, we went silently forward.
At length we reached Fort Enterprize, and to our

- i

308

Thirty Years

infinite disappointment and grief found it a perfectly
desolate habitation. There was no deposit of pro-
vision, no trace of the Indians, no letter from llr,
Wentzel to point out where the Indians might be
found. It would be impossible for me to describe our
sensations after entering this miserable abode, and
discovering how we had been neglected ; the whole
party shed tears, not so much for our own fate, as for
that of our friends in the rear, whose lives depended
entirely on our sending immediate relief from this
place.

I found a note, however, from Mr. Back, stating
that he had reached the house two days ago, and waa
going in search of the Indians, at a part where St.
Germain deemed it probable they might be found. If
he was unsuccessful, he purposed walking to Fort
Providence, and sending succor from thence. But he
doubted whether he or his party could perform the
journey to that place in their present debilitated state.
It was evident that any supply that could be sent
from Fort Providence would be long in reaching us,
and could not be sufficient to enable us to afford any
assistance to our companions behind, and that the only
relief for them must be procured from the Indians. I
resolved, therefore, on going also in search of them ;
but my companions were absolutely incapable of pro-
ceeding, and I thought, by halting two or three days,

In the Artie RegionB.

809

they might gather a little strength, whilst the delay
woi^ld afford us the chance of learning whether Mr.
Back had seen the Indians.

We now looked round for the means of suhsistence,
and were gratified to find several deer skins, which
had been thrown away during our former residence.
The bones were gathered from the heap of ashes, these
with the skins, and the addition of tripe de roche, we
considered would support us tolerably well for a time.
As to the house, the parchment being torn from the
windows, the apartment we selected for our abode
vf&a exposed to all the rigor of the season. We en-
deavored to exclude the wind as much as possible, by
placing loose boards against the apertures. The tem-
perature was now between 15° and 20^ below zero.
We procured fuel by pulling up the flooring of the
other rooms, and water for the purpose of cooking by
melting the snow. Whilst we were seated round the
fire, singing the deer skin for supper, we were rejoiced
by the unexpected entrance of Augustus. He had
followed quite a different course from ours, and the
circumstance of his having found his way through a
part of the country he had never been in before, must
be considered a remarkable proof of sagacity. The
unusual carliness of this winter became manifest to us
from the state of things at this spot. Last year at
the same season, and still later, there had been very

■

310

Thirty Years

little snow on the ground, and we were surrounded by
vast herds of reindeer. Now there were but few
recent tracks of these animals, and the snow was up-
wards of two feet deep. Winter River was then open,
now it was frozen two feet thick.

When I arose the following morning, my body and
limbs were so swollen that I was unable to walk more
than a few yards. Adam was in a still worse condi-
tion, being absolutely incapable oi rising without as-
sistance. My other companions fortunately experienced
this inconvenience in a less degree, and went to col-
lect bones, and some tripe de roche, which supplied
us with two meals. The bones were quite acrid, and
the soup extracted from them excoriated the mouth
if taken alone, but it was somewhat milder when
boiled with tripe de roche, and we even thought the
mixture palatable, with the addition of salt, of which
a cask had been fortunately left here in the spring.
Augustus to-day set two fishing-lines below the rapid.
On his way thither he saw two deer, but had not
strength to follow them.

On the 13th the wind blew violently from south-
east, and the snow drifted so much, that the party
was confined to the house. In the afternoon of the
following day Belanger arrived with a note from Mr.
Back, stating that he had seen no trace of the Indians,
and desiring further instructions as to the course he

In tht Arctic Begions.

311

uth-
larty
the
Mr.
ans,
he

should pursue. Belanger's situation, however, re-
quired our first care, as he came in almost speechless,
and covered with ice, having fallen into a rapid, and
for the third time since we left the coast, narrowly es-
caped drowning. He did not recover sufficiently to
answer our questions, until we had ruhbed him for
some time, changed his dress, and given him some
warm soup. My companions nursed him with the
greatest kindness, and the desire of restoring him to
health seemed to absorb all regard for their own situ-
ation. I witnessed with peculiar pleasure this con-
duct, so diflferent from that which they had recently
pursued, when every tender feeling was suspended by
the desire of self-preservation. They now no longer
betrayed impatience or despondency, but were qom-
posed and cheerful, and had entirely given up the
practice of swearing, to which the Canadian voyagers
are so lamentably addicted. Our conversation natu-
rally turned upon the prospect of getting relief, and
upon the means which were best adapted for obtain-
ing it. The absence of all traces of Indians on Win-
ter Eiver, convinced me that they were at this time
on the way to Fort Providence, and that by proceed-
ing towards that post we should overtake them, as *
they move slowly when they have their families with
them. This route also offered us the prospect of kill-
ing deer, in the vicinity of Reindeer Lake, in which

H

■

% .

312

Thirty Tears

*

neighborliood, pur men in their journeys to and fro
last winter, had always found them abundant. Upon
these grounds I determined on taking the route to
Fort Providence as soon as possible, and wrote to Mr. *
Back desiring him to join me at Beindeer Lake, and
detailing the occurrences since we had parted, that
our friends might receive relief in case of any accident
happening to me.

Belanger did not recover sufficient strength to leave
us before the 18th. His answers as to the exact part
of Round-Kock Lake in which he had left Mr. Back,
were very unsatisfactory ; and we could only collect that
it was a considerable distance, and he was still going
on with the intention of halting at the place where
Akaitcho was encamped last summer, about thirty
miles off. This distance appeared so great, that I
told Belanger it was very unsafe for him to attempt it
alone, and that he would be several days in accom-
plishing it. He stated, however, that as the track
was beaten, he should experience little fatigue, and
seemed so confident, that I suffered him to depart
with a supply of singed hide. Next day I received
information which explained why he was so unwilling
' to acquaint us with the situation of Mr. Back's party.
He dreaded that I should resolve upon joining it,
when our numbers should be so great as to consume
at once everything St. Germain might kill, if by acci-

In the Arctic Regions.

313

|rty.
it.

ime
jci-

dent he should be successful in hunting. He even
endeavored to entice away our other hunter Adam,
and proposed to him to carry off the only kettle we
had, and without which we could not have subsisted
two days. Adam's inability to move, however, pre-
cluded him from agreeing to the proposal, but he
could assign no reason for not acquainting me with it,
previous to Belanger's departure. I was at first in-
clined to consider the whole matter as a fiction of
Adam's, but he persisted in his story without waver-
ing ; and Belanger, when we met again, confessed
that every part of it was true. It is painful to have
to record a fact so derogatory to human nature, but I
have deemed it proper to mention it, to shew the dif-
ficulties we had to contend with, and the effect which
distress had in warping the feelings and understanding
of the most diligent and obedient of our party ; for
such Belanger had been always esteemed up to this
time.

In making arrangements for our departure, Adam
disclosed to me, for the first time, that he was affect-
ed with oedematous swellings in some parts of the
body, to such a degree as to preclude the slightest at-
tempt at marching ; and upon my expressing my sur-
prise at his having hitherto concealed from me the ex-
tent of his malady, among other explanations the de-
tails of the preceding story came out. It now became

14

314

TJnrt^ Years

necessary to abandon the original intention of proceed-
ing with the whole party towards Fort Providence,
and Peltier and Samandrd having volunteered to re-
main with Adam, I determined on setting out with
Benoit and Augustus, intending to send them relief
by the first party of Indians we should meet. My
clothes were so much torn, as to be quite inadequate
to screen me from the wind, and Peltier and Samandr^
fearing that I might suffer on the journey in conse-
quence, kindly exchanged with me parts of their dress,
desiring me to send them skins in return by the In-
dians. Having patched up three pair of snow-shoe»,
and singed a considerable quantity of skin for the jour-
ney, we started on the morning of the 20th. Previous
to my departure, I packed up the journals of the offi-
cers, the charts, and some other documents, together
with a letter addressed to the Under Secretary of
State, detailing the occurrences of the Expedition up
to this period, which package was given in charge to
Peltier and Samandr^, with direction that it should be
brought away by the Indians who might come to them,
I also instructed them to forward succor immediately
on its arrival to oulr companions in the rear, which
they solemnly promised to do, and I left a letter for
my friends, Eichardson and Hood, to be sent at the
same time. I thought it necessary to admonish Pel-
tier, Saraand^^, and Adam, to eat two me«.l& very day.

-■•^

Tn the Arctic Regions.

315

in order to keep up their strength, which they pro-
mised me they would do. No language that I can
use could adequately describe the parting scene. I
shall only say there was far more calmness and resig-
nation to the Divine will evinced by every one than
could have been expected. We were all cheered by
the hope that the Indians would be found by the one
party, and relief sent to the other. Those who re-
mained entreated us to make all the haste we could,
and expressed their hope of seeing the Indians in ten
or twelve days. **

At first starting we were so feeble as scarcely to be
able to move forwards, and the descent of the bank
of the river through the deep snow was a severe labor.
When we came upon the ice, where the snow was less
deep, we got on better, but after walking six hours
we had only gained four miles, and were then com-
pelled by fatigue to encamp on the borders of Eound-
Rock Lake. Augustus tried for fish here, but without
success, so that our fare was skin and tea. Compo-
sing ourselves to rest, we lay close to each other for
warmth. We found the night bitterly cold, and the
wind pierced through our fomished frames.

The next morning was mild and pleasant for travel-
ing, and we set out after breakfast. We had not,
however, gone many yards before I had the misfortune
to break my snow-shoes, by fulling between two rocks.

•*?

*

316

Thirty Years

6

This accident prevented me from keeping pace with
Benoit and Augustus, and in the attempt I became
quite exhausted. Being convinced that their being
delayed on my account might prove of fatal conse-
quence to the rest, I resolved on returning to the
house, and letting them proceed alone in search of the
Indians. I therefore halted them only whilst I wrote
a note to Mr. Back, stating the reason of my return,
and requesting he would send meat from Beindeer
Lake by these men, if St. Germain should kill any
animals there. If Benoit should miss Mr. Back, I di-
rected him to proceed to Fort Providence, and fur-
nished him with a letter to the gentleman in charge
of it, requesting immediate supplies might be sent
to us.

On my arrival at the house, I found Samandrd very
dispirited, and too weak, as he said, to render any as-
sistance to Peltier ; upon whom the whole labor of
getting wood and collecting the means of subsistence
would have devolved: Conscious, too, that his
strength would have been unequal to these tasks, they
had determined upon taking only one meal each day ;
under these circumstances I considered my return as
particularly fortunate, as I hoped to stimulate Sa-
mandr^ to exertion, and at any rate I could contribute
some help to Peltier. I undertook the office of cook-
ing, and insisted that they should eat twice a day

In the Arctic Regions,

317

whenever food could be procured, but as I was too
weak to pound the bones, Peltier agreed to do that in
addition to his more fatiguing task of getting wood.
We had a violent snow storm all the next day, and
this gloomy weather contributed to the depression of
spirits under which Adam end Samandr^ were laboring.
Neither of them would quit their beds, and they
scarcely ceased from shedding tears all day ; in vain
did Peltier and myself endeavor to cheer them. We
had even to use much entreaty before we prevailed
upon them to take the meals we had prepared. Our
situation was indeed distressing, but in comparison
with that of our friends in the rear, we considered it
happy. Their condition gave us unceasing solicitude,
and was the principal subject of our conversation.

Though the weather was stormy on the 26th, Sa-
mandr^ assisted me to gather tripe de roche. Adam,
who was very ill, and could not now be prevailed upon
eat this weed, subsisted principally on bones, though
he also partook of the soup. The ti'ipe de roche had
hitherto afforded us our chief support, and we natu-
rally felt great uneasiness at the prospect of being de-
prived of it, by its being so frozen as to render it
impossible for us to gather it.

We perceived our strength decline every day, and
every exertion began to be irksome ; when we were
once seated the greatest effort was necessary in order

318

Tliirty Years

to rise, and we had frequently to lift each other from
our seats ; but even in this pitiable condition we con-
versed cheerfully, being sanguine as to the speedy ar-
rival of the Indians. We calculated indeed that if
they should be near the situation where they had re-
mained last winter, our men would have reached them
by this day. Having expended all the wood which wo
could procure from our present dwelling, without en-
dangering its falling, Peltier began this day to pull
down the partitions of the adjoining houses. Though
these were only distant about twenty yards, yet the
increase of labor in carrying the wood fatigued him so
much, that by the evening he was exhausted. On the
next day his weakness was such, especially in the arms,
of which he chiefly complained, that he with difficulty
lifted the hatchet ; still he persevered, Samandr6 and
I assisting him in bringing in the wood, but our uni-
ted strength could only collect ''ufficient to replenish
the fire four times in the course of the day. As the
insides of our mouths had become sore from eating the
bone soup, we relinquished the use of it, and now boiled
our skin, which mode of dressing we found more
palatable than frying it, as we had hitherto done.

On the 29th, Peltier felt his pains more severe, and
could only cut a few pieces of wood. Samandr6, who
was still almost as weak, relieved him a little time,
and 1 assisted them in carrying in the wood. "We

\

In the Arctic Regions.

319

endeavored to pick some tripe de roche, but in vain,
as it was entirely frozen. In turning up the snow, in
searching for bones, I found several pieces of bark,
which proved a valuable acquisition, as we were almost
destitute of dry wood proper for kindling the fire. We
saw a herd of reindeer sporting on the river, about
half a mile from the house ; they remained there a
considerable time, but none of the party felt them-
selves sufficiently strong to go after them, nor was
there one of us who could have fired a gun without
resting it.

Whilst we were seated round the fire this evening,
discoursing about the anticipated relief, the conversa-
tion was suddenly interrupted by Peltier's exclaiming
with joy, " Ah ! le monde !" imagining that he heard
the Indians in the other room ; immediately after-
wards, to his bitter disappointment. Dr. Bichardson
and Hepburn entered, each carrying his bundle. Pel-
tier, however, soon recovered himself enough to express
his joy at their safe arrival,* and his regret that their
companions were not with them. When I saw them
alone my own mind was instantly filled with apprehen-
sions respecting my friend Hood, and our other com-
panions, which were immediately confirmed by the
Doctor's melancholy communication, that Mr. Hood
and Michel were dead. Perrault and Fontano had
neither reached the tent, nor been heard of by t^ em.

820

Thirty Years

This intelligence produced a melancholy despondency
in the minds of my party, and on that account the
particulars were deferred until another opportunity.
We were all shocked at heholding the emaciated coun-
tenances of the Doctor and Hepburn, as they strongly
evidenced their extremely debilitated state. The al-
teration in our appearance was equally distressing to
them, for since the swellings had subsided, we were
little more than skin and bone. The Doctor particu*
larly remarked the sepulchral tone of our voices,
which he requested us to make more cheerful if
possible, unconscious that his own partook of the same
key.

Hepburn having shot a partridge, which was brought
to the house, the Doctor tore out the feathers, and
having held it to the fire a few minutes, divided it
into seven portions. Each piece was ravenously de-
voured by my companions, as it was the first morsel
of flesh any of us had tasted for thirty-one days, un-
less indeed the small grimly particles which we found
occasionally adhering to the pounded bones may be
termed flesh. Our spirits were revived by this small
supply, and the Doctor endeavored to raise them still
higher by the prospect of Hepburn's being able to kill
a deer next day, as they had seen, and even fired at,
several near the house. He endeavored, too, to rouse
US to some attention to the comfort of our apartment,

^%p^

%^

In the Arctic Begiona.

321

and particularly to roll up, in the day, our blankets
which (expressly for the convenience of Adam and
SamandrA,) we had been in the habit of leaving by the
fire where we lay on them. The Doctor having brought
his prayer-book and Testament, some prayers and
psalms, and portions of scripture, appropriate to our
situation, were read, and we retired to bed.

Next morning the Doctor and Hepburn went out^
early in search of deer ; but, though they saw several
herds and fired some shots, they were not so fortunate
as to kill any, being too weak to hold their guns
steadily. The cold compelled the former to return
soon, but Hepburn persisted until late in the evening.

My occupation was to search for skins under the
snow, it being now our object immediately to get all
that we could, but I had not strength to drag in more
than two of those which were within twenty yards of
the house until the Doctor came and assisted me.
We made up our stock to twenty-six, but several of
them were putrid, and scarcely eatable, even by men
BuflFering the extremity of famine. Peltier and Sa-
mandr6 continued very weak and dispirited, and they
were unable to cut fire-wood. Hepburn had in con-
sequence that laborious task to perform after he came
back. The Doctor having scarified the swelled parts
of Ad 's body, a large quantity of water flowed out,
and he obtained some ease, but still kept his bed.

om^

822

Thiriy Years

After our usual 8Uj)i)er of singed skia nnd bono
soup, Dr. Biehtirdson ncquuinted mo with the nfllict-
ing circumHtanccH nttonding the death of Mr. Hood
and Michel, and detailed the occurrences subsequent
to my departure from them, which I shall give from
his journal, in his own words ; but I must here bo per-
mitted to express tho heart-felt sorrow with which I
was overwhelmed at the loss of so many companions ;
especially for that of my friend Mr. Hood, to whose
zealous and able co-operation I had been indebted for
80 much valuable assistance during the Expedition,
whilst tho excellent qualities of his heart engaged my
warmest regard. His scientific observations, together
with his maps and drawings, evince a variety of talent,
which, had his life been spared, must have rendered
him a distinguished ornament to his profession, and
which will cause his death to be felt as a loss to the
service.

I

%!.

/^

In the Arctic Regions,

32a

f

CHAPTER XII.

Dr. RICHARDSON'S NARRATIVE.

After Captain Franklin had bidden us farewell, we
remained seated by the fire-side as long as the willows,
the men had cut for us before they departed, lasted.
We had no tripe de roche that day, but drank an in-
fusion of the country tea-plant, which was grateful
from its warmth, although it afforded no sustenance.
We then retired to bed, where we remained all the
next day, as the weather was stormy, and the snow-
drift so heavy, as to destroy every prospect of success
in our endeavors to light a fire with the green and
frozen willows, which were our only fuel. Through
the extreme kindness and forethought of a lady, the
party, previous to leaving London, had been furnished
with a small collection of religious books, of which we
still retained two or three of the most portable, and
they proved of incalculable benefit to us. We read
portions of them to each other as we lay in bed, in ad-

"**

324

Thirty Years

dition to the morning and evening service, and found
that they inspired us on each perusal with so strong a
sense of the omnipresence of a beneficent God, that
our situation, even in these wilds, appeared no longer
destitute ; and we conversed, not only with calmness,
but with cheerfulness, detailing with unrestrained
confidence the past events of our lives, and dwelling
with hope on our future prospects. Had my poor
friend been spared to revisit his native land, I should
look back to this period with unalloyed delight.

On the morning of the 29th, the weather, although
still cold, was clear, and I went out in quest of trijpe
de roche, leaving Hepburn to cut willows for a fire,
and Mr. Hood in bed. I had no success, as yester-
day's snow drift was so frozen on the surface of the
rocks that I could not collect any of the weed ; but,
on my retiirn to the tent, I found that Michel, the
Iroquois, had come with a note from Mr. Franklin,
which stated, that this man, and Jean Baptist Belan-
ger being unable to proceed, were about to return to
us, and that a mile beyond our present encampment
there was a clump of pine trees, to which he recom-
mended us to remove the tent. Michel informed us
that he quitted Mr. Franklin's party yesterday morn-
ing, but, that having missed his way, he had passed
the night on the snow a mile or two to the northward
of us. Belanger, he said, being impatient, had left

4--

m

In the Arctic Regions.

325

the fire about two hours' earlier, and as he had not
arrived, he supposed h • had gone astray. It will be
seen in the sequel, that we had more than sufficient
reason to doubt the truth of this story.

Michel now produced a hare and a partridge which
he had killed in the morning. This unexpected sup-
ply of provision was received by us with a deep sense
of gratitude to the Almighty for his goodness, and wo
looked upon Michel as the instrument he had chosen
to preserve all our lives. He complained of cold, and
Mr. Hood offered to share his buffalo robe with him
at night : I gave him one of two shirts which I wore,
whilst Hepburn, in the warmth of his heart, ex-
claimed, " How I shall love this man if I find that
he does not tell lies like the others.'' Our meals
being finished, we arranged that the greatest part of
the things should be carried to the pines the next day ;
and after reading the evening service, retired to bed
full of hope.

Early in the morning Hepburn, Michel, and my-
self, carried the ammunition, and most of the other
heavy articles to the pines. Michel was our guide,
and it did not occur to us at the time that his con-
ducting us perfectly straight was incompatible with
his story of having gone astray on his way to us. He
now informed us that he had, on his way to the tent,
left on the hill above the pines a gun and forty-eight

326

Thirty Years

balls, which Perrault had given him when with the
rest of Mr. Franklin's party, he took leave of him.
It will be seen, on a reference to Mr. Franklin's jour-
nal, that Perrault carried his gun and ammunition
with him when they parted from Michel and Belan-
ger. After we had made a fire, and drank a little of
the country tea, Hepburn and I returned to the tent,
where we arrived in the eveninor, much exhausted with
our journey. Michel preferred sleeping where he was,
and requested us to leave him the hatchet, which wo
did, after he had promised to come early in the morn-
ing to assist us in carrying the tent and bedding.
Mr. Hood remained in bed all day. Seeing nothing
of Belanger to-day, we gave him up for lost.

On the 11th, after waiting until late in the morn-
ing for Michel, who did not come, Hepburn and I
loaded ourselves with the bedding, and accompanied
by Mr. Hood, set out for the pines. Mr. Hood was
much affected with dimness of sight, giddiness, and
other symptoms of extreme debility, which caused us
to move very slow, and to make frequent halts. On
arriving at the pines, we were much alarmed to find
that Michel was absent. We feared that he had lost
his way in coming to us in the morning, although it
was not easy to conjecture how that could have hap-
pened, as our footsteps of yesterday were very distinct.
Hepburn went back for the tent, and returned with it

*

In the Arctic Beg ions.

327

it

it

after dusk, completely worn out with the fatigue of
the (lay. Michel, too, arrived at the Bame time, and
relieved our anxiety on his account. He reported that
he had been in chase of some deer which passed near his
sleeping-place in the morning, and although he did
not come up with them, yet that he found a wolf
which had been killed by the stroke of a deer's horn,
and had brought a part of it. We implicitly believed
this story then, but afterwards became convinced from
circumstances, the detail of which may be spared,
that it must have been a portion of the body of Be-
langer or Perrault. A question of moment here
presents itself ; namely, whether he actually murdered
these men, or either of them, or whether he found the
bodies on the snow. Captain Franklin, who is the
best able to judge of this matter, from knowing their
situation when he parted from them, suggested the
former idea, and that both Belanger and Perrault had
been sacrificed. When Perrault turned back. Captain
Franklin watched him until he reached a small group
of willows, which was immediately adjoining to the fire,
and concealed it from view, and at this time the smoke
of fresh fuel was distinctly visible. Captain Franklin
conjectures, that Michel having already destroyed Be-
langer, completed his crime by Perrault't death, in
order to screen himself from detection. Although
this opinion is founded only on circumstances, and is

328

Thirty Years

unsupported by direct evidence, it has been judged
proper to mention it, especially as the subsequent
conduct of the man shewed that he was capable of
committing such a deed. The circumstances are very
strong. It is not easy to assign any other adequate
motive for his concealing from us that Perrault had
turned back, and his request overnight that we should
leave him the hatchet ; and his cumbering himself
with it when he went out in the morning, unlike a
hunter who makes use only of his knife when he kills
a deer, seem to indicate that he took it for the purpose
of cutting up something that he knew to be frozen.
These opinions, however, are the result of subsequent
consideration. We passed this night in the open air.

On the following morning the tent was pitched, and
Michel went out early, refused my offer to accompany
him, and remained out the whole day. He would not
sleep in the tent at night, but chose to lie at the fire-
side.

On the 13th there was a heavy gale of wind, and
we passed the day by the fire. Next day, about two
P.M., the gale abating, Michel set out as he said to
hunt, but returned unexpectedly in a very short time.
This conduct surprised us, and his contradictory and
evasory answers to our questions excited some sus-
picions, but they did not turn towards the truth.

October 15th. — In the course of this day Michel

In the Artie Regions.

329

expressed much regret that he had stayed behind Mr.
Franklin's party, and declared that he would set out
for the- house at once if he knew the way. We en-
deavored to soothe him, and to raise his hopes of the
Indians speedily coming to our relief, but without
success. He refused to assist us in cutting wood, but
about noon, after much solicitation, he set out to hunt.
Hepburn gathered a kettle of tripe de rochet but
froze his fingers. Both Hepburn and I fatigued our-
selves much to-day in pursuing a flock of partridges
from one part to another of the group of willows, in
which the hut was situated, but we were too weak to be
able to approach them with sufficient caution. In the
evening Michel returned, having met with no success.
Next day he refused either to hunt or cat wood,
spoke in a very surly manner, and threatened to leave
us. Under these circumstances, Mr. Hood and I deem-
ed it better to promise if he would hunt diligently for
four days, that then we would give Hepburn a letter
for Mr. Franklin, a compass, inform him what course
to pursue, and let them proceed together to the fort.
The non-arrival of the Indians to our relief, now led us
to fear that some accident had happened to Mr. Frank-
lin, and we placed no confidence in the exertions of
the Canadians that accompanied him, but we had the
fullest confidence in Hepburn's returning the moment
he could obtain assistance.

S30

Thirty Years

On the 17th I went to conduct Michel to where
VaiUant'a bhmket was left, and after walking about
three miles, pointed out the hills to him at a distance,
and returned to the hut, having gathered a bagful ot
tripe de roche on the way. It was easier to gather
this weed on a march than at the tent, for the exercise
of walking produced a glow of heat, which enabled us
to withstand for a time the cold to which we were ex-
posed in scraping the frozen surface of the rocks. On
the contrary, when we left the fire, to collect it in the
neighborhood of the hut, we became chilled at once,
and were obliged to return very quickly.

Michel proposed to remain out all night, and to hunt
next day on his way back. He returned in the after-
noon of the 18th, having found the blanket, together
with a bag containing two pistols, and some other
things which had been left beside it. We had some
tripe de roche, in the evening, but Mr. Hood, from the
constant griping it produced, was unable to eat more
than one or two spoonfuls. He was now so weak as
to be scarcely able to sit up at the fire-side, and com-
plained that the least breeze of wind seemed to blow
through his frame. He also suffered much from cold
during the night. We lay close to each other, but the
heat of the body was no longer sufficient to thaw the
frozen rime formed by our breaths on the blankets that
covered him.

In the Arctic Regions.

331

At this period we avoided ns much as possible con-
versing upon tlie hopelessness of our situation, and
generally endeavored to lead the conversation towards
our future prospects in life. The fact is, that with tlie
decay of our strength, our minds decayed, and we were
no longer able to bear the contemplation of the hor-
rors that surrounded us. Each of us, if I may be al-
lowed to judge from my own case, excused himself
from so doing by a desire of not shocking the feelings
of the others, for we were sensible of one another's
weakness of intellect, though blind to our own. Yet
we were calm and resigned to our fate, not a murmur
escaped us, and we were punctual and fervent in our
addresses to the Supreme Being.

On the 19th Michel refused to hunt, or even to as-
sist in carrying a log of wood to the fire, which was
too heavy for Hepburn's strength and mine. Mr. Hood
endeavored to point out to him the necessity and duty
of exertion, and 4he cruelty of his quitting us without
leaving something for our support ; but the discourse,
far from producing any beneficial effect, seeined only
to excite his anger, and amongst other expressions he
made use of the following remarkable one : " It is no
use hunting, there are no animals, you had better kill
and eat me." At length, however, he went out, but
returned very soon, with a report that he had seen
three deer, which he was unable to follow from having

332

Thirty Years

wet his foot in a small stream of water thinly covered
with ice, and being consequently obliged to come to
the fire. The day was rather mild, and Hepburn and
I gathered a large kettleful of tripe de roche ; Michel
slept in the tent this night.

Sunday, October 20. — In the morning we again
urged Michel to go a hunting, that he might if possi-
ble leave us some provision, to-morrow being the day
appointed for his quitting us ; but he shewed great
unwillingness to go out, and lingered about the fire,
under the pretense of cleaning his gun. After we had
read the morning service, I went about noon to gather
some tripe de rocliCj leaving Mr. Hood sitting before
the tent at the fire-side, arguing with Michel ; Hep-
burn was employed cutting down a tree at a short dis-
tance from the tent, being desirous of accumulating a
quantity of fire- wood before he left us. A short time
after 1 went out I heard the report of a gun, and
about ten minutes afterwards Hepburn called to me in
a voice of great alarm, to come directly. When I ar-
rived, I found poor Hood lying lifeless at the fire-side,
a ball having apparently entered his forehead. I was
at first horror-struck with the idea, that in a fit of
despondency he had hurried himself into the presence
of his almighty Judge, by an act of his own hand ; but
the conduct of Michel soon gave rise to other thoughts^
and excited suspicions which were confirmed, when

In the Arctic Regions.

333

upon examining the body, I discovered that the shot
had entered the back part of the head, and passed out
at the forehead, and that the muzzle of the gun had
been applied so close as to sU fire to the night-cap be-
hind. The gun, which was of the longest kind supplied
to the Indians, could not have been placed in a posi-
tion to inflict such a wound, except by a second person.
Upon inquiring of Michel how it happened, he replied,
that Mr. Hood had sent him into the tent for the short
gun, and thai during his absence the long gun had
gone off, he did not know whether by accident or not.
He held the short gun in his hand at the time he was
speaking to me. Hepburn afterwards informed me,
that previous to the report of the gun, Mr. Hood and
Michel were speaking to each other in an elevated,
angry tone ; that Mr. Hood being seated at the fire-
side, was hid from him by intervening willows, but
that on hearing the report he looked up, and saw
Michel rising up from before the tent door, or just be-
hind where Mr. Hood was seated, and then going into
the tent. Thinking that the gun had been discharged
for the purpose of cleaning it, he did not go to the fire
at first ; and when Michel called to him that Mr. Hood
was dead, a considerable time had elapsed. Although
I dared not openly to evince any suspicion that I
thought Michel guilty of the deed, yet he repeatedly
protested that he was incapable of committing such

334

Thirty Years

an act, kept constaDtly on his guard, and carefully
avcided leaving Hepburn and me together. He was
evidently afraid of permitting us to converse in private,
and whenever Hepburn spoke, he inquired if he accu-
sed him of the murder. It is to be remarked, that ho
understood English very imperfectly, yet sufficient to
render it unsafe for us to speak on the subject in his
presence. We removed the body into a clump of
willows behind the tent, and, returning to the fire,
rend the funeral service in addition to the evening
prayers. The loss of a young officer, of such distin-
guished and varied talents and application, may be
felt and duly appreciated by the eminent characters
under whose command he had served ; but the calm-
ness with which he contemplated the probable termi-
nation of a life of uncommon promise ; and the patience
and fortitude with which he sustained, I may venture
to say, unparalleled bodily sulferin<;s, can only be
known to the companions of his distresses. Owing to
the effect that the *r{pe de roche invariably had, when
he ventured to taste it, he undoubtedly suffered more
than any of the survivors of the party. BickerstetJia
Scripture Help was lying open beside the body, as if
it had fallen from his hand, and it is probable that he
was reading it at the Ipstant of his death. We pass-
ed the night in the tent together without rest, every
one being on his guard. Next day, having determined

'•■ *,

In the Arctic Regions.

335

on going to the Fort, we began to patch and prepare
our clothes for the journey. We singed the hair off
a part of the buflfalo robe that belonged to Mr. Hood,
and boiled and ate it. Michel tried to persuade rae
to go to the woods on the Copper-Mine Kiver, and
hunt for deer, instead of going to the Fort. In the
afternoon a flock of partridges coming near the tent,
he killed several, which he shared with us.

Thick snowy weather and a head wind prevented
us from starting the following day, but on the morning
of the 23d we set out, carrying with us the remainder
of the singed robe. Hepburn and Michel had each a
gun, and I carried a small pistol, which Hepburn had
loaded for me. In the course of the march Michel
alarmed us much by his gestures and conduct, was
constantly muttering to himself, expressed an unwill-
ingness to go to the Fort, and tried to persuade me
to go to the southward to the woods, where he said he
could maintain himself all the winter by killing deer.
In consequence of this behavior, and the expression of
his countenance, I requested him to leave us and to go
to the southward by himself. This proposal increased
his ill-nature, he threw out some obscure hints of
freeing himself from all restraint on the morrow ; and
I overheard him muttering thripits against Hepburn,
whom he openly accused of having told stories against
him. He also fur the first time, assumed such a tone

.1 i»pi mwrnm^ffmrnm

P.

336

TJitrty Years

of superiority ia addressing me, as evinced that he
considered us to be completely in his power, and he
gave vent to several expressions of hatred towards the
white people, or as he termed us in the idiom of the
voyagers, the French, some of whom, he said, had
killed and eaten his uncle and two of his relations. In
short, taking every circumstance of his conduct into
consideration, I came to the conclusion, that he would
attempt to destroy us on the first opportunity that
offered, and that he had hitherto abstained from doing
so from his ignorance of the way to the Fort, but that
he would never suffer us to go thither in company
with him. In the course of the day he had several
times remarked that we were pursuing the same
course that Mr. Franklin was doing when we left him,
and that by keeping towards the setting sun he could
find his way himself. Hepburn and I were not in a
condition to resist even an open attack, nor could we
by any device escape from him. Our united strength
was far inferior to his, and, beside his gun, he was armed
with two pistols, an Indian bayonet, and a knife. In
the afternoon, coming to a rock on which there was
some tripe de rochej he halted, and said he would
gather it whilst we went on, and that he would soon
overtake us. Hepburn and I were now left together
for the first tim,e since Mr. Hood's death, and he ac-
quainted me with several material circumstances.

In the Arctic Eegions.

337

which he had observed of Michel's behavior, and which
confirmed me in the opinion that there was no safety
for us except in his death, and he offered to be the
instrument of it. I determined, however, as I was
thoroughly convinced of the necessity of such a dread-
ful act, to take the whole responsibility upon myself ;
and immediately upon Michel's coming up, I put an
end to his life by shooting him through the head with
a pistol. Had my own life alone been threatened, I
would not have purchased it by such a measure ; but
I considered myself as intrusted also with the protec-
tion of Hepburn's, a man, who, by his humane atten-
tions and devotednesR, had so endeared himself to me,
that I felt more anxiety for his safety than for my own.
Michel had gathered no stripe de rochcy and it was
evident to us that he had halted for the purpose of
putting his gun in order, with the intention of attack-
ing us, perhaps, whilst we were in the act of encamp-
ing.

I have dwelt in the preceding part of the narrative
upon many circumstances of Michel's conduct, not for
the purpose of aggravating his crime, but to put the
reader in possession of the reasons ttat influenced me
in depriving a fellow creature of life. Up to the period
of his return to the tent, his conduct had been good
and respectful to the officers, and in a conversation

between Captain Franklin, Mr. Hood, and myself, at

15

.v,i.jfe"rt"!^iE.

oa|f|.'i.'",'.>»-" '''.'!<>" '" 111.111,11 p»»iy»»»—^i...l iii,» I- n^wytwww*^^^!^! , iltwt- ■■ «■■

Hi( .|liiHJHi|in.l>|il

r

4;

^■

338

Thirty Years

Obstruction Rapid, it had been proposed to give him
a reward upon our arrival at a post. His principles,
however, unsupported by a belief in the divine truths
of Christianity, were unable to withstand the pressure
of severe distress. His countrj'men, the Iroquois, are
generally Christians, but he was totally uninstructed
and ignorant of the duties inculcated by Christianity ;
and from his long residence in the Indian country,
seems to have imbibed, or retained, the rules of con-
duct which the southern Indians prescribe to them-
selves. • • •

On the tWo following days we had mild but thick
snowy weather, and as the view was too limited to
enable us to preserve a straight course, we reniained
encamped amongst a few willows and dwarf pines,
about five miles from the tent. We found a species
of comicularia^ a kind of lichen, that was good to eat
when moistened and toasted over the fire ; and we
had a good many pieces of singed bufialo hide remain-
ing.

On the 26th, the weather being clear and extremely
cold, we resumed our march, which was very painful
from the depth of the snow, particularly on the mar-
gins of the small lakes that lay in our route. We fre-
quently sunk under the load of our blankets, and
were obliged to assist each other in getting up. After
walking about three miles and a half, however, we

In the Arctic Regions.

339

[ye him
nciples,
5 trutlis
pressure
lois, are
gtructed
tianity ;
C50untry,
of con-
;o tliem-

lut thick

mited to

•eiiiained

rf pines,

species

d to eat

and we

remain-

:tremely
painful

the mar-
We fre-

[ets, and
After

lever, we

were cheered hy the sight of a large herd of reindeer,
and Hephurn went in pursuit of them ; hut his hand
heing unsteady through weakness he missed. He was
so exhausted hy this fruitless attempt, that we were
obliged to encamp upon the spot, although it was a
very unfavorable one.

Next day we had fine and clear, but cold weather.
We set out early, and, in crossing a hill, found a con-
siderable quantity of tripe de roche. About noon we
fell upon Little Marten Lake, having walked about
two miles. The sight of a place that we knew in-
spired us with fresh vigor, and there being compara-
tively little snow on the ice, we advanced at a pace
to which we had latel} been unaccustomed. In the
afternoon we crossed a recent track of a wolverene,
which, from a parallel maik in the snow, appeared to
have been dragging something. Hepburn traced it,
and upon the borders of the lake found the spine of a
deer, that it had dropped. It was clean picked, and
at least one season old ; but we extracted the spinal
marrow from it, which, even in its frozen state, was so
acrid as to excoriate the lips. We encamped within
sight of the Dog-rib Rock, and from the coldness of
the night and the want of fuel, rested very ill.

On the 28th we rose at day-break, but from the
want of the small fire, that we usually made in the
mornings to warm our fingers, a very long time was

[■Ill], i.mipiy|!ii|ni.mifnyi.wi

;. ft

III Ml IIIWIII

I

:■

340

Thirty Years

Bpent in making up our bundlos. This task fifll to
Hepburn's share, as I sull'ered so much from the cold
as to be unable to take my hands out of my mittens.
We kept a straight course for the Dog-rib Bock,
but owing to the depth of the snow in the valleys we
had to cross, did not reach it until late in the after-
noon. We would have encamped, but did not like to
pass a second night without fire ; and "though scarcely
able to drag our limbs after us, we pushed on to a
clump of pines, about a mile to the southward of the
rock, and arrived at them in the dusk of the evening.
During the last few hundred yards of our march, our
track lay over some large stones, amongst which I fell
down upwards of twenty times, and became at length
so exhausted that I was unable to stand. If Hep-
burn had not exerted himself far beyond his strength,
and speedily made the encampment and kindled a
fire, I must have perished on the spot. This night
we had plenty of dry wood.

On the 29 th we had clear and fine weather. We
3et out at sunrise, and hurried on in our anxiety to
reach the house, but our progress was much impeded
by the great depth of the snow in the valleys. Al-
though every spot of ground over which we traveled
to-day, had been repeatedly trodden by us, yet we got
bewildered in a small lake. We took it for Marten
Lake, which was three times its size, and fancied that

fell to
Lo cold
ittens.
Rock,
Dys we
after-
like to
carcely
a to a
of the
zoning,
ch, our
h I foil
length
■ Hep-
rength,
idled a
night

■" J Kt'i •^'f

r.

Wo

dety to
iipeded
s. Al-
raveled
we got
Marten
lmI that

In the Arctic Regions.

341

we saw the rapid and the grounds about the fort, al-
though they were still far distant. Our disappoint-
ment when this illusion was dispelled, by our reach-
ing the end of the lake, so operated on our feeble
minds as to exhaust our strength, and we decided
upon encamping ; but upon ascending a small emi-
nence to look for a clump of wood, we caught a
glimpse of the Big-Stone, a well known rock upon the
summit of a hill opposite to the Fort, and determined
upon proceeding. In the evening we saw several
large herds of reindeer, but Hepburn, who used to be
considered a good marksman, was now unable to hold
the gun straight^ and although he got near them, all
his efforts proved fruitlesb. In passing through a
small clump of pines we saw a flock of partridges,
and he succeeded in killing one after firing several
shots. We came in sight of the fort at dusk, and it
is impossible to describe our sensations, when on at-
taining the eminence that overlooks it, we beheld the
smoke issuing from one of the chimneys. From' not
having met with any footsteps in the snow, as we drew
nigh our once cheerful residence, we had been agitated
by many melancholy forebodings. Upon entering the
now desolate building, we had the satisfaction of em-
bracing Captain Franklin, but no words can convey
an idea of the filth and wretchedness that met our
eyes on looking around. Our own misery had stolen

«w

f

I;

842

Thirty Years

upon us by degrees, and we were accustomed to the
contemplation of each other's emaciated figures, but
the ghastly countenances, dilated eye-balls, and
sepulchral voices of Mr. Franklin and those with him,
were more than we could at first bear.

Conclusion of Dr. Bichardson's Narrative,

The morning of the 31st was very cold, the wind
being strong from the north. Hepburn went again in
quest of deer, and the Doctor endeavored to kill some
partridges : both were unsuccessful A large herd of
deer passed close to the house, the Doctor fired once
at them, but^was unable to pursue them. Adam was
easier this d^, and left his bed. Peltier and Samandrd
were much weaker, and could not assist in the
labors of the day. Both complained of soreness in
the throat, and Samandrd suffered much from cramps
in his fingers. The Doctor and Hepburn began this
day to cut the wood, and also brought it to the house.
Being too weak to aid in these laborious tasks, I was
employed in searching for bones, and cocking, and at-
tending to our more weakly companions.

In the Arctic Regions.

343

to the
;s, but
, and
ti him,

e.

e wind
ain in

.1 some
erd of

Id once

,m was
andrd
n the
ess in
ramps
,n this
Ihouse.
I was
Ind at-

In the evening, Peltier, complaining much of cold,
requested of me a portion of a blanket to repair his
shirt and drawers. The mending of these articles oc-
cupied him and Samandr^ until past one A.M., and
their spirits were so much revived by the employment,
that they conversed even cheerfully the whole time.
Adam sat up with them. The Doctor, Hepburn, and
myself, went to bed. We were afterwards agreeably
surprised to see Peltier and Samandr^ carry three or
four logs of wood across the room to replenish the fire,
which induced us to hope they still possessed more
strength than we had supposed.

November 1. — This day was fine and mild. Hep-
burn went hunting, but was as usual unsuccessful. As
his strength was rapidly declining, we advised him to
desist from the pursuit of deer ; and only to go out
for a short time and endeavor to kill a few partridges
for Peltier and Samandr6. The Doctor obtained a
little tripe de roche^ but Peltier could noreat any of
it, and Samandr6 only a few spoonfuls^ owing to the
soreness of their throats. In the afternoon Peltier
was so much exhausted, that he sat up with difficulty,
and looked piteously ; at length he slided from his
stool upon his bed, as we supposed to sleep, and in
this composed state he remained upwards of two hours,
without our apprehending any danger. We were
then alarmed by hearing a rattling in his throat, and

•"•-w— ■*¥■<■•

344

Thirty Years

on the Doctor's examining him ho was found to ho
speechless. He died in the course of tlio night. S.'i<
mandr6 sat up the greater part of the day, and even
assisted in pounding some bones ; but on witnessing
the melancholy state of Peltier, he became very low,
and began to complain of cold and stiffness of the
* joints. Being unable to keep up a sufficient fire to
warm him, we laid him down and covered him with
several blankets. He did not, however, appear to got
better, and I deeply lament to add, he also died before
daylight. We removed the bodies of the deceased
into the opposite part of the house, but our united
strength was inadequate to the task of interring them,
or even carrying them down to the river.

It may be worthy of remark that poor Peltier, from
the time of Benoit's departure, had fixed on the first
of November as the time when he should cease to ex-
pect any relief from the Indians, and had repeatedly
said that iC they did not arrive by that day, he should
not survive.

Peltier had endeared himself to each of us by hit
cheerfulness, his unceasing activity, and affectionate
care and attentions, ever since our arrival at this
place. He had nursed Adam with the tendercst solic-
itude the whole time. Poor SamandrA was willing to
have taken his share in the labors of the party, had
he not been wholly incapacitated by his weakness and

In the Arctic Regions,

345

ind to bo
;ht. Sa-
and oven
itncssing
very low,
)88 of iho
int firo to
him with
(ar to got
od boforo
deceased
ur united
ing them,

tier, from
the first
ISO to cx-
Eipeatedljr
16 should

IS by hif
ectionato
1 at this
est solic-
villing to
arty, had
(nesB and

iow spirits. The severe shock occasioned by tho sud-
den dissolution of our two companions rendered us
very melancholy. Adam became low and despondent,
a change which wo lamented tho more, as wo had per-
ceived ho had been gaining strength and spirits for tho
two preceding days. I was particularly distressed by
tho thought that the labor of collecting wood must
now devolve upon Dr. Kichardson and Hepburn, and
that my debility would disablo me from affording them
any material assistance ; indeed both of them most
kindly urged mo not to make tho attempt. They
were occupied tho whole of tho next day in tearing
down the logs of which the store-houso was built,
but the mud plastered between them was so hard
frozen that tho labor of separation exceeded their
strength, and they wore completely exhausted by
bringing in wood sufficient for less than twelve hours'
consumption. ^,

I found it necessary in their absence, io remain
constantly near Adam, and to converse with him, in
order to prevent his reflecting on our condition, and
to keep up his spirits as far as possible. I also lay
by his side at night.

On tho 3d the weather was very cold, though the

atmosphere was cloudy. This morning Hepburn was

affectod with swelling in his limbs, his strength, as

well OS that of the Doctor, was rapidly declining ;

15»

■pmi

mmm

mmm

346

Thirty Years

they continued, however, to be full of hope. Their
utmost exertions could only supply wood to renew the
fire thrice, and on making it up the last time we went
to bed. Adam was rather in better spirits, but ho
could not bear to be left alone. Our stock of bones
was exhausted by a small quantity of soup we made
this evening. The toil of separating the hair from
the skins, which in fact were our chief support, had
now become so wearisome ag to prevent us from eat-
ing as much as we should otherwise have done.

November 4. — Calm and comparatively mild wea-
ther. The Doctor and Hepburn, exclusive of their
usual occupation, gathered some tripe de roche. I
went a few yards from the house in search of bones,
and returned quite fatigued, having found but three.
The Doctor again made incisions in Adam's legs,
which discharged a considerable quantity of water, and
gave him great relief. We read prayers and a portion
of the New Testament in the morning and evening, as
had been our practice since Dr. Bichardson's arrival ;
and I may remark that the performance of these duties
always afforded us the greatest consolation, serving to
reanimate our hope in the mercy of the Omnipotent,
who alone could save and deliver us.

On the 5th the breezes were light, with dark cloudy
weather, and some snow. The Doctor and Hepburn
were getting much weaker, and the limbs of the lat-

In the Arctic Regions.

347

ter were now greatly swelled. They came into the
house frequently in the course of the day to rest them-
selves, and when once seated, were unable to rise with-
out the help of one another, or of a stick. Adam was
for the most part in the same low state as yesterday,
but sometimes he surprised us by getting up and walk-
ing with an appearance of increased strength. His
looks were now wild and ghastly, and his conversation
was often incoherent.

The next day was fine, but very cold. The swellings
in Adam's limbs having subsided, he was free from
pain, and arose this morning in much better spirits,
and spoke of cleaning his gun ready for shooting par-
tridges, or any animals that might appear near the
house, but his tone entirely changed before the day
was half over ; he became again dejected, and could
scarcely be prevailed upon to eat. The Doctor and
Hepburn were almost exhausted. The cutting of one
log of wood occupied the latter half an hour ; and the
other took as, much time to drag it into the house,
though the distance did not exceed thirty yards. I
endeavored to help the Doctor, but my assistance Was
very trifling. Yet it was evident that, in a day or
two, if their strength should continue to decline at
the same rate, I should be the strongest of the party.

I may here remark, that owing to our loss of flesh,
the hardness of the floor, from which we were only

mmmmfft

348

Thirty Tears

protected by a blanket, produced soreness over tb^
body, and especially those parts on which the weight
rested in lying, yet to turn ourselves for relief was «
matter of toil and difficulty. However, during this
period, and indeed all along after the acute pains of
hunger, which lasted but three or four days, had sub-
sided, we generally enjoyed the comfort of a few hours'
sleep. The dreams which for the most part, but not
always accompanied it, were usually (though not in-
variably,) of a pleasant character, being very often
about the enjoyments of feasting. In the day-time
we fell into the practice of conversing on common and
light subjects, although we sometimes discussed with
seriousness and earnestness topics connected with reli-
gion. We generally avoided speaking directly of our
present sufferings, or even of the prospect of relief. I
observed, that in proportion as our strength decayed,
our minds exhibited symptoms of weakness, evinced by
a kind of unreasonable pettishness with each other.
Each of us thought the other weaker in intellect than
himself, and more in need of advice and assistance.
So ^rifling a circumstance as a change of place re-
commended by one as being warmer and more comfort-
able, and refused by the other from a dread of motion,
frequently called forth fretful expressions which were
no sooner uttered than atoned for, to be repeated per-
haps in the course of a few minutes. The same thing

In the Arctic Regions,

349

often occurred when we endeavored to assist each other
in carrying wood to the fire ; none of us were willing
to receive assistance, although the task was dispro-
portionate to our strength. On one of these occasions
Hepburn was so convinced of this waywardness that
he exclaimed, " Dear me, if we are spared to return
to England, I wonder if we shall recover our under-
standings."

November 7. — Adam had passed a restless night,
being disquieted by gloomy apprehensions of approach-
ing death, which we tried in vain to dispel. He was
80 low in the morning as to be scarcely able to speak.
I remained in bed by his side to cheer him as much as
possible. The Doctor and Hepburn went to cut wood.
They had hardly begun their labor, when they were
amazed at hearing the report of a musket. They could
scarcely believe that there was really any one near,
until they heard a shout, and immediately espied three
Indians close to the house. Adam and I heard the latr
ter noise, and I was fearful that a part of the house had
fallen upon one of my companions, a disaster which
had in fact been thought not unlikely. My alarm
was only momentary. Dr. Bichardson came in to com-
municate the ioyfnl intfsllijjence that relief had arrived.
He and myself immediately addressed thanksgiving
to the throne of mercy for this deliverance, but poor
Adam was in. so low a state that he could scarcely

350

Thirty Tears

comprehend the information. When the Indians en-
tered, he attempted to rise but sank down again. But
for this seasonable interposition of Providence, his ex-
istence must have terminated in a few hours, and that
of the rest probably in not many days.

The Indians had left Akaitcho's encampment on the
5th November, having been sent by Mr. Back with all
possible expedition, after he had arrived at their tents.
They brought but a small supply of provisions, that
they might travel quickly. It consisted of dried deer's
meat, some fat, and a few tongues. Dr. Bichardson,
Hepburn, and I, eagerly devoured the food, which
they imprudently presented to us, in too great abun-
dance, and in consequence we suffered dreadfully from
indigestion, and had no rest the whole night. Adam
being unable to feed himself, was more judiciously
treated by them, and suffered less ; his spirits reviv-
ed hourly. The circumstance of our eating more food
than was proper in our present condition, was another
striking proof of the debility of our minds. We were
perfectly aware of the danger, and Dr. Bichardson re-
peatedly cautioned us to be moderate ; but he was
himself unable to practise the caution he so judicious-
ly recommended.

Boudel-kell, the youngest of the Indians, after rest-
ing about an hour, returned to Akaitcho with the in-
telligence of our situation, and he conveyed a note

In the Arctic Regions.

351

from me to Mr. Back, requesting another supply of
meat as soon as possible. The two others, " Crooked-
Foot and the Rat," remained to take care of us, until
we should be able to move forward.

The note I received by the Indians from Mr. Back,
communicated a tale of distress with regard to him-
self and his party, as painful as that which we had
suffered ; as will be seen hereafter, by his own narm-
tive.

November 8. — The Indians this morning requested
us to remove to an encampment on the banks of the
river, as they were unwilling to remain in the house
in which the bodies of our deceased companions were
lying exposed to view. We agreed to remove but the
day proved too stormy, and Dr. Richardson and Hep-
burn having dragged the bodies to a short distance, and
covered them j(irith snow, the objections of the Indians
to remain in the house were removed, and they began
to clear our room of the accumulation of dirt and
fragments of pounded bones. The improved state of our
apartment, and the large and cheerful fires they kept
up, produced in us a sensation of comfort to which we
had long been strangers. In the evening they brought
in a pile of dried wood, which was lying on thq^river
side, and on which we had often cast a wishful eye,
being unable to drag it up the bank. The Indians set
about every thing with an activity that amazed us.

mmm

352

Thirty Years

L :

Indeed, contrasted with our emaciated figures and ex-
treme debility, their frames appeared to us gigantic, and
their strength supernatural. These kind creatures next
turned their attention to our personal appeararce, and
prevailed upon us to shave and wash ourselves. The
beards of the Doctor and Hepburn had been untouch-
ed since they left the sea coast, and were become of a
hideous length, and peculiarly offensive to the In-
dians.* The Doctor and I suffered extremely from
distention, and therefore ate sparingly. Hepburn was
getting better, and Adam recovered his strength with
amazing rapidity.

November 9. — This morning was pleasantly fine.
Crooked-Foot caught four large trout in Winter Lake,
which were very much prized, especially by the Doctor
and myself, who had taken a dislike to meat, in con-
sequence of our sufferings from repletiop, which ren-
dered us almost incapable of moving. Adam and
Hepburn in a great measure escaped this. Though
the night was stormy, and our apartment freely ad-
mitted the wind, we felt no inconvenience, the Indians
were so very careful in covering us u^, and in keeping a

* The first alviDe discharges after we received food, were, as Heame
remarks on a similar occasion, attended with excessive pain. Previous
to the arrival of the Indians, the urinary secretion was extremely abun-
dant, and we were obliged to rise from bed in consequence upwards of
ton times in a night. This was an extreme annoyance in our reduced
state. It may, perhaps, be attributed to the quantity of the couQ!ry
tea that we drank.

In the Arctic Regions.

353

good fire ; and our plentiful cheer gave such power of
resisting the cold, that we could scarcely believe other-
wise than that the season had become milder.

On the 13th, the weather was stormy, with constant
snow. The Indians became desponding at the non-
arrival of the supply, and would neither go to hunt
nor fish. They frequently expressed their fears of
some misfortune having befarjn Boudel-kell ; and, in
the evening, went off suddenly, without apprizing us
of their intention, having first given to each of us a
handful of pounded meat, which they had reserved.
Their departure, at first, gave rise to a suspicion of
their having deserted us, not meaning to return, espe-
cially as the explanations of Adam, who appeared to
be in their secret, were very unsatisfactory. At length,
by interrogations, we got from him the information,
that they designed to march night and day, until they
should reach Akaitcho's encampment, whence they
would send us aid. As we had combated their fears
about Boudel-k 11, they, perhaps, apprehended that
we fhouid oppose their determination, and therefore
concealed it. We were now left a second time with-
out food, and with appetites recovered, and strongly
excited by recent indulgence.

On the following day the Doctor and Hepburn re-
sumed their former occupation of collecting wood, and
I was able to assist a little in bringing it into the

354

Tliirty Tears

house. Adam, whose expectation of the arrival of the
Indians had heen raised by the fineness of the weather,
became, towards night, very desponding, and refused
to eat the singed skin. The night was stormy, and*
there was a heavy fall of snow. The next day he be-
came still more dejected. About eleven Hepburn,
who had gone out for wood, came in with the intelli-
gence that a party appeared upon the river. The
room was instantly swept, and, in compliance with
the prejudices of the Indians, every scrap of skin was
carefully removed out of sight; for these simple peo-
ple imagine, that burning deer- skin renders them un-
successful in hunting. The party proved to be
Crooked-Foot, Thooee-} orro, and the Fop, with the
wives of the two latter dragging provisions. They
were accompanied by Benoit, one of our own men.

We were rejoiced to learn, by a note from Mr.* Back,
dated November 11, that he and his companions had
so recruited their strength that they were preparing to
proceed to Fort Providence. Adam recovered his spirits
on the arrival of the Indians, and even walked about
the room with an appearance of strength and activity
that -surprised us all. As it wds of consequence to get
amongst the reindeer before our present supply should
fail, we made preparations for quitting Fort Enter-
prize the next day ; and, accordingly, at an early hour
on the 16th, having united in thanksgiving «nd prayer,

In the Arctic Regions.

855

the whole party left the house after breakfast. Our
feelings on quitting the Fort, where we had formerly
enjoyed much comfort, if not happiness, and, latterly,
experienced a degree of misery scarcely to be paralelled,
may be more easily conceived than described. The
Indians treated us with the utmost tenderness, gave
us their snow-shoes and walked without themselves,
keeping by our sides, that they might lift us when we
fell. We descended Winter River, and, about noon,
crossed the head of Bound-Bock Lake, distant about
three miles from the house, where we were obliged to
halt, as Dr. Bichardson was unable to proceed. The
swellings in his limbs rendered him bv much the weak-
est of the party. The Indians prepared our encamp-
ment, cooked for us, and fed us as if we had been
children ; evincing humanity that would have done
honor to the most civilized people. The night was
mild, and fc*iigue made us sleep soundly.

From this period to the 26th of November we
gradually continued to improve, under the kindness
and attention of our Indians. On this day we arrived
in safety at the abode of our chief and companion,
Akaitcho. We were received by the party assembled
in the leader's tent, with looks of compassion, and
profound silence, which lasted about a quarter of an
hour, and by which they meant to express their condo-
lence for our 8ufferino:s. The conversation did not bo-

".U'lHHtllliU

KB-

356

Thirty Tears

gin until we had tasted food. The Chief, Akaitcho,
shewed us the most friendly hospitality, and all sorts
of personal attention, even to cooking for us with his
own hands, an office which he never performs for him-
self. Annoethaiyazzeh and Humpy, the Chiefs two
brothers, and several of our hunters, with their fami-
lies, were encamped here, together with a number of
old men and women. In the course of the day we
were visited by every person of the band, not merely
from curiosity, I conceive, but rather from a desire to
evince their tender sympathy in our late distress. We
learned that Mr. Back, with St. Germain and Belan-
ger, had gone to Fort Providence ; and that, previous
to his departure, he had left a letter in a cac^e of
pounded meat, which he had missed two days ago.
As we supposed that this letter might acquaint us
with his intentions more fully than we could gather
from the Indians, through our imperfect knowledge
of their language, Augustus, the Esquimaux, whom
we found here in peifect health, and an Indian lad,
were dispatched to bring it.

We found several of the Indian families in great
affliction, for the loss of three of their relatives, who
had been drowned in the August preceding, by the
upsetting of a canoe near to Fort Enterprize. They
bewailed the melancholy accident every morning and
evening, by repeating the names of the persons in a

In the Arctic Eegtons.

357 •

loud singing tone, which was frequently interrupted
by bursts of tears. One woman was so affected by the
loss of her only son, that she seemed deprived of rea-
son, and wandered about the tents the whole day, cry-
ing and singing out his name.

On the 1st of December we removed with the In-
dians to the southward.

On the 4th, we again set off after the Indians about
noon, and soon overtook them, as they had halted to
drag from the water, and cut up and share, a moose-
deer, that had been drowned in a rapid part of the
river, partially covered with ice. These operations de-
tained us a long time, which was the more disagreea-
ble, as the weather was extremely unpleasant from
cold low fogs. We were all much fatigued at the
hour of encampment, which was after dark, though
the day's journey did not exceed four miles. At every
halt the elderly men of the tribe used to make holes in
the ice and put in their lines. One of them shared
the produce of his fishery with us this evening.

In the afternoon of the 6th, Belanger, and another
Canadian, arrived from Fort Providence, sent by Mr.
Weeks, with two trains of dogs, some spirits and to-
bacco for the Indians, a change of dress for ourselves,
and a little tea and sugar. They also brought letters
for us from England, and from Mr. Back and Mr.
Wentzel. By the former we received the gratifying

358

Thirty Tears

inteHigence of the successful termination of Captain
Parry's voyage ; and were informed of the promotion
of myself and Mr. Back^ and of poor Hood, our grief
for whose loss was renewed by this intelligence. The
gratification which it would otherwise have afforded,
was materially damped by our sincere regret that he
had not lived to receive this just reward of his merit
and services. The letter from Mr. Back stated, that
the rival Companies in the fur trade had united ; but
that, owing to some cause which had not been ex-
plained to him, the goods intended as rewards to
Akaitcho and his band, which we had demanded in the
spring from the North- West Company, were not sent.
There were, however, some stores 1} ing for us at Moose-
deer Island, which had been ordered for the equipment
of our voyagers ; and Mr. Back had gone across to that
establishment, to make a selection of the articles we
could spare for a temporary present to the Indians.
The disappc^'ntment at the non-arrival of the goods
was seriously felt by us, as we had looked forward with
pleasure to the time when we should be enabled to
recompense our kind Indian friends, for their tender
sympathy in our distresses, and the assistance they
had so cheerfully and promptly rendered. I now re-
gretted to find, that Mr. Wentzel and his party, in
their return from the sea, had suffered severely on
their march along the Copper-Mine Eiver, having on

In the Arctic Regions.

350

one occasion, as he mentioned, had no food hwt* tripe
de roche for eleven days.

All the Indians flocked to our encampment to learn
the news, and to receive the articles brought for them.
Having got some spirits and tobacco, they withdrew to
the tent of the Chief, and passed the greater part of
the night in singing. We had now the indescribable
gratification of changing our linen, which we had worn
ever since our departure from the sea-coast.

December 8. — After a long conference with Akaitcho,
we took leave of him and his kind companions, and
set out with two sledges, heavily laden with provision
and bedding, drawn by the dogs, and conducted by
Belanger and the Canadian sent by Mr. Weeks. Hep-
burn and Augustus jointly dragged a smaller sledge,
laden principally with their own bedding. Adam and
Benoit were left to follow with the Indians. We en-
camped on the Grassy-Lake Portage, having walked
about nine miles, principally on the Yellow-Knife
Eiver. It was open at the rapids, and in these places
we had to ascend its banks, and walk through the
woods for some distance, which was very fatiguing,
especially to Dr. Richardson, whose feet were severely
galled in consequence of some defect in his snow-
shoes.

On the 11th, however, we arrived at the Fort ; it
was still under the charge of Mr. Weeks. He wol-

360

Thirty Tears

conicd us in the most kind manner, immediately gave
us changes of dress, and did every thing in his power
to make us comfortable.

Our sensations, on being once more in a comfortable
dwelling, after the series of hardships and miseries we
had experienced, will be much better imagined than
any language of mine can describe them. Our first
act was again to return our grateful praises to the
Almighty for the manifold instances of his mercy to-
wards us. Having found here some articles, which
Mr. Back had sent across from Moose-deer Island, I
determined on awaiting the arrival of Akaitcho and
his party, in order to present these to them, and to
assure them of the promised reward, as noon as it
could possibly be procured.

In the afternoon of the 14th, Akaitcho, with his
whole band, came to the Fort. He smoked his cus-
tomary pipe, and made an address to Mr. Weeks in
the hall, previous to his coming into the room in which
Dr. Richardson and I were. We discovered at the
commencement of his speech to us, that he had been
informed that our expected supplies had not come.
He spoke of this circumstance as a disappointment,
indeed, sufficiently severe to himself, to whom his
band looked up for the protection of their interests,
but without attaching any blame to us. " The world
goes badly/' he said, *' all are poor, you are poor, the

WB»«V?<»r,

In the Arctic Begions,

361

traders appear to be poor, I and my party are poor
likewise ; and since the goods have not come in, we
cannot have them. I do not regret having supplied
you with provisions, for a Copper Indian can never
permit white men to suffer from want of food on his
lands, without flying to their aid. I trust, however,
that we shall, as you say, receive what is due next
autumn ; and at all events," he added, in a tone of
good humor, " it is the first time that the white peo-
ple have been indebted to the Copper Indians." We
assured him the supplies should certainly be sent to
him by the autumn, if not before. He then cheerfully
received the small present we made to himself ; and,
although we could give a few things only to those
who had been most active in our service, the others
who, perhaps, thought themselves equally deserving,
did not murmur at being left out in the distribution.
Akaitcho afterwards expressed a strong desire, that we
should represent the character of his nation in a favor-
able light to our countrymen. "I know," he said,
" you write down every occurrence in your books ; but
probably you have only noticed the bad things we
have said and done, and have omitted to mention the
good." In the course of the desultory conversation
which ensued, he said, that he had been always told
by us, to consider the traders in the same light as

ourselves : and that for his part, he looked upon both

16

362

Thirty Year a

R8 equally rcHpcctnhlo. Tiiis nMumnco, nmdo in the
presence of Mr. Weeks, was particularly gratifying to
us, as it completely diBproved tlio defence that had
been sot up, resjHJcting the injurious reports that had
l)cen circulated against us, amongst the Indians in
the spring ; namely, that they were in retaliation for
our endeavors to lower the traders in the eyes of the
Indians. I take this opportunity of stating ray
opinion, that Mr. Weeks, in spreading these reports,
was actuated by a mistaken idea that ho was serving
the interest of his employers. On the present occasion,
we felt indebted to him for the sympathy he displayed
for our distresses, and the kindness with which he ad-
niiniatcretl to our personal wants. After this con-
ference, such Indians as were indebted to the Com-
pany were iMiid for the provision they had given us,
by deducting a corresponding sum from their debts ;
in the same way wo gave a reward of sixteen skins of
beaver to each of the jwrsons who had come to our re-
lief at Fort Enterprizo. As tho debts of Akaitcho
and his hunters had been effaced at the time of his
engagement with us, we placed a sum^ equal to tho
amount of provision they had recently supplied, to
their credit on the Company's Ixx^ks. These things
being, through the moderation of tho Indians, adjust-
ed with an unexpected facility, we gave them a keg
of mixed liquors, (five parts water,) and distributed

In the Arlic RegioiiB.

363

among them several fathoms of tobacco, and they re-
tired to their tents to spend the night in merriment.

Adam, our interpreter, being desirous of uniting
himself with the Copper Indians, applied to me for
his discharge, which I granted, and gave him u bill
on the Hudson's Buy Company for the amount of his
wages. These arrangements being completed, we pre-
pared to cross the lake.

Mr. Weeks provided Dr. Richardson and mo with a
cariole each, and we set out at eleven A.M., on the
15th, for Moose-deer Island. Our party consisted of
Bellinger who had charge of a sledge, laden with tlie
bedding, and drawn by two dogs, our two cariole men
Benoit, and Augustus. Previous to our departure,
we had another conference with Akaitcho, who, as
well as the rest of hU party, bade us farewell, with a
warmth of manner rare among the Indians.

The badness of Belanger's dogs and the roughness
of the ice, impeded our progress very much, and oblig-
ed us to encamp early. We had a good fire made of
the drift wood, which lines the shores of this lake in
great quantities. The next day was very cold. We
began the journey at nine A.M., and encamped at the
Big Cape, having made another short march, in con-
sequence of the roughness of the ice.

On the 17th, we encamped on the most southerly
of the Reindeer Islands. This night was very stormy,

3G4

Thirty Ye(\r8

but the wind abating in the morning, we procecdeil,
and by sunset reached the fishing huts of the Com-
pany at Stony Point. Here we found Mr. Andrews,
a clerk of the Hudson's Bay Company, who regaled
us with a supper of excellent white fish, for which this
part of Slave Lake is particularly celebrated. Two
men with sledges arrived sogn afterwards, sent by Mr.
M'Vicar, who expected us about this time. We set
off in the morning before day-break, with several
companions, and arrived at Moose-deer Island about
one P. M. Hero wo were received with the utmost
hospitality by Mr. M'Vioar, the chief trader of the
Hudson's Bay Company in tliis district, as well as by
his assistant, Mr. M'Auley. Wo had also the happi-
ness of joining our friend Mr. Back ; our feelings on
this occasion can be well imagined ; we were deeply
impressed with gratitude to him for his exertions in
sending the supply of food to Fort Enterprize, to
which, under Divine Providence, we felt the preserva-
tion of our lives to bo owing. He gave us an affecting
detail of the proceedings of his party since our separa-
tion ; the substance of which I shall convey to the
reader, by the following extracts from his Journal.

^-

In the Arctic Regions,

86d

CHAPTER XIII.

Mr. BACK'S NARRATIVE.

1R21.
Ootobur 4.

Mr. Franklin having directed me to pro-
ceed with St. Germain, Belanger, and Beauparlant, to
Fort Enterprize, in the hope of obtaining relief for the
party, I took leave of my companions, and set out on
my journey, through a very swampy country, which,
with the cloudy state of the weather, and a keen
north-east wind, accompanied by frequent snow show-
ers, retarded us so much that we scarcely got more
than four miles, when we halted for the night, and
made a meal of tripz de roche and some old leather.
On the 5th, we set out early, amidst extremely deep
snow, sinking frequently in it up to the thighs, a la-
bor in our enfeebled and almost worn-out state, that
nothing but the cheering hopes of reaching the house,
and affording relief to our friends, could have enabled
us to support. As we advanced, we louna to our mor-
tification that the tripe de roche, hitherto our sole de-

366

Tliirty Tears

pendence, began to be scarce, so that we could only
collect sufficient to make half a kettleful, which, with
the addition of a partridge each, that St. Germain had
killed, made us a tolerable meal ; during this day I
felt very weak and sore in the joints, particularly be-
tween the shoulders. At night we encamped among a
small clump of willows.

On the 6th we set out at an early hour, pursuing
our route over a range of hills, at the foot of one of
which we saw several large pines, and a great quan-
tity of willows ; a sight that encouraged us to quicken
our pace, as we were now certain we could not be far
from the woods. Indeed we were making considerable
progress, when Belanger unfortunately broke through
the ice, and sunk up to the hips. The weather being
cold, he was in danger of freezing^ but some brushwood
on the borders of the lake enabled us to make a lire
to dry him. At the same time we took the oppor-
tunity of refreshing ourselves with a kettle of swamp
tea.

My increasing debility had for some time obliged
me to use a stick for the purpose of extending my
arms ; the pain in my shoulders being so acute, that I
could not bear them to remain in the usual position
for two minutes together. We halted at five among
some small brushwood, and made a sorry meal of an
old pair of leather trowsers, and some swamp tea.

In tJie Arctic Regions.

367

could only
irhicb, with
Brmain had
this day I
cularly be-
id among a

', pursuing
i of one of
;reat quan-
to quicken
not be far
)n8iderable
ce through
ither being
brushwood
lake a fire
the oppor-
of swamp

le obliged
inding my
ite, that I
il position

ve amons:
leal of an
p tea.

The night was cold with a hard frost, and though
two persons slept together, yet we could not by any
means keep ourselves warm, but remained trembling
the whole time. The following morning we crossed
several lakes, occasionally seeing the recent tracks oi
deer, and at noon we fell upon Marten Lake ; and it
happened to be the exact spot where we had been the
last year with the canoes, and though I immediately
recognized the place, the men would not believe it to
be the same ; at length, by pointing out several marks,
• and relating circumstances connected with them, they
recovered their memory, and a simultaneous expres-
sion of " Mon Dieu, nous sommes sauv^s," broke out
from the whole. Contrary to our expectations, the
lake was frozen sufficiently to bear us, so that we were
excused fiom making the tours of the different bays.
This circumstance seemed to add fresh vigor to us,
we walked as fast as the extreme smoothness of the
ice would permit, intending to reach the Slave Rock
that night ; but an unforeseen and almost fatal acci-
dent prevented the prosecution of cur plan : Belanger
(who seemed the victim of misfortune) again broke
through the ice, in a deep part near Ihe head of the
rapid, but was timely saved, by fastening our worsted
belts together, and pulling him out. By urging him
forwards as quick as his icy garments would admit of,
to prevent his freezing, we reached a few pines, and

•I

368

Thirty Tears

kindled a £.e ; but it was late before he even felt warm,
though he waa so near the flame as to burn his hair
twice ; and to add to our distress, three wolves crossed
the lake close to us.

The night of the 7th was extremely stormy, and
about ten the following morning, on attempting to go
on, we found it totally impossible, being too feeble to
oppose the wind and drift, which frequently blew us
over, and on attempting to cross a small lake that lay
in our way, drove us faster backwards than under all
advantages we could get forwards ; therefore we en-'
camped under the shelter of a small clump of pines,
secure from the south-west storm that was raging
around us. In the evening, from there being no tripe
de roche, we were compelled to satisfy, or rather al-
lay, the cravings of hunger, by eating a gun cover and
a pair of old shoes ; at this time I had hardly strength
to get on my legs.

The wind did not in the least abate during the night,
but in the morning of the 9th it changed to north-east,
and became moderate. We took advantage of this
circumstance, and rising .with great difficulty, set out,
though had it not been for the hope of reaching the
house, I am certain, from the excessive faintness
which almost overpowered me, that I must have re-
mained where I was. We passed the Slave Rock,
and making frequent halts, arrived within a short dis-

i^'

In the Arctic Regions.

369

felt warm,
rn his hair
ves crossed

ormy, and
•ting to go
a feeble to
ly blew us
:e that lay
under all
)re we en- '
of pines,
fts raijinjr
? no tripe
rather al-
cover and

strength

he night,
)rth-east,
5 of this
, set out,
ling the
aintness
bave re-
B Keck,
lort dis-

tance of Fort Enterprize ; but as we perceived neither
any marks of Indians, nor even of animals, the men
began absolutely to despair : on a nearer approach,
however, the tracks of large herds of deer, which had
only passed a few hours, tended a little to revive their
spirits, and shortly after we crossed the ruinous thres-
hold of the long-sough t-for spot ; but what was our
surprise, what our sensations, at beholding every thing
in the most desolate and neglected state ; the doors
and windows of that room in which we expected to
find provision, had been thrown down, and carelessly
left so ; and the wild animals of the woods had resort-
ed there, as to a place of bhelter and retreat. Mr.
Wentzel had taken away the trunks and papers, but
had left no note to guide us to the Indians. This was
to us the most grievous disappointment : without the
assistance of the Indians, bereft of every resource, we
felt ourselves reduced to the most miserable state,
which was rendered still worse, from the recollection
that our friends in the rear were as miserable as our-
selves. For the moment, however, hunger prevailed,
and each began to gnaw the scraps of putrid and fro-
zen meat that were laying about, without waiting to
prepare them. A fire, however, was made, and the
neck and bones of a deer, found lying in the house,
were boiled and devoured.

I determined to remain a day here to repose our-

370

Thirty Tears

selves, and then to go in search of the Indians, and in
the event of missing them, to proceed to the first trad-
ing establishment, which was distant about one hun-
dred and thirty miles, and from thence send succor to
my companions. This indeed I should have done im-
mediately, as the most curtain manner of executin*^
my purpose, had there been any probability of the
river and lakes being frozen to the southward, or had
we possessed sufficient strength to have clambered over
the rocks and mountains which impeded the direct
way ; but as we were aware of our inability to do so,
I listened to St. Germain's proposal, which was, to
follow the deer into the woods, (so long as they did
not lead us out of our route to the Indians,) and if
possible to collect sufficient food to carry us to Fort
Providence. We now set about making mittens and
snow-shoes, whilst Belanger searched under the snow,
and collected a mass of old bones, which when burned
and used with a little salt, we found palatable enough,
and made a tolerable meal. At night St. Germain
returned, having seen plenty of tracks, but no ani-
mals ; the day was cloudy, with fresh breezes, atid the
river was frozen at the borders.

On the 11th we prepared for our journey, having
first collected a few old skins of deer, to serve us as
food, and written a note to be left for our commander,
to apprize him of our intentions. We pursued the

In the Arctic Regions,

371

course of the river to the lower lake, when St. Germain
fell in, whieh obliged us to encamp directly to prevent
his being frozen ; indeed we were all glad of stopping,
for in our meagre and reduced state it was impossible
to resist Jhe weather, which at any other time would
have been thought fine ; my toes were frozen, and al-
though wrapped in a blanket I could not keep my
hands warm.

The 12th was excessively cold with fresh breezes.
Our meal at night consisted of scraps of old deer skins
and swamp tea, and the men complained greatly of
their increasing debility. The following morning I
sent St. Germain to hunt, intending to go some dis-
tance down the lake, but the weather becoming ex-
ceedingly thick with snow storms, we were prevented
from moving. He returned without success, not hav-
ing seen any animals. We had nothing to eat.

In the morning of the 14th the part of the lake ba^
fore us was quite frozen. There was so much uncer-
tainty in St. Germain's answers as to the chance of
any Indians being in the direction we were then going,
( although he had previously said that the leader had
told him he should be there,) and he gave me so much
dissatisfaction in his hunting excursions, that I was in-
duced to send a note to the Commander, whom I sup-
posed to be by this time at Fort Enterprize, to inform
him of our situation ; not that I imagined for a mo-

372

Thirty Years

ment he could better it, but that by all returning to
the Fort we might, perhaps, have better success in
hunting ; with this view I despatched Belanger, much
against his inclination, and told him to return as
quick as possible to a place about four lailes fur-
ther on, where we intended to fish, and to await his
arrival. The men were so weak this day that I could
get neither of them to move from the encampment ;
and it was only necessity that compelled them to cut
wood for fuel, in performing which operation Beau-
parlant's face became so dreadfully swelled that he
could scarcely see ; I myself lost my temper on the
most trivial circumstances, and was become very peev-
ish ; the day was fine but cold, with a freezing north-
' east wind. We had nothing to eat.

October 15. — The night was calm and clear, but
it was not before two in the afternoon that we set out ;
aDd the one was so weak, and the other so full of com-
plaints, that we did not get more than three-quarters
of a mile from our last encampment, before we were
obliged to put up ; but in this distance we were for-
tunate enough to kill a partridge, the bones of which
were eaten, and the remainder reserved for baits to
fish with. We were fortunate, however, in collecting
sufficient tripe de rohe to make a meal ; and I now
anxiously awaited Belanger's return, to know what
courso to take. I was now so much reduced, that my

In the Arctic Begtons.

373

shoulders were as if they would full from my body, my
legs seemed unable to support me, and in the diHposi-
tion which I then found myself, had it not been for
the remembrance of my friends behind, who relied on
me for relief, as well as the persons of whom I had
charge, I certainly should have preferred remaining
where I was, to the miserable pain of attempting to
move.

October 16. — We waited until two in the afternoon
for Belanger ; but not seeing any thing of him on the
lake, we set out, purposing to encamp at the Narrows,
the place which was said to be so good for fishing, and
where, according to St. Germain's account, the In-
dians never failed to catch plenty ; its distance at most
could not be more than two miles. We had not pro-
ceeded far before Bcauparlant began to complain of in-
creasing:; weakness. This was so usual with us that
no particular notice was taken of it, for in fact there
was little difference, all being alike feeble ; among
other things he said whilst we were resting, that he
should never get beyond the next encampment, for his
strength had quite failed him. I endeavored to en-
courage him by explaining the mercy of the Supreme
Being, who ever beholds with an eye of pity those that
seek his aid. This passed as common discourse, when
he enquired v:here we were to put up ; St. Germain
pointed to a small clump of pines near us, the only

874

Tliirty Years

place indeed that offered for fuel. " Well," replied
the poor man, " take your axe, Mr. Back, and I will
follow at my leisure, I shall join you by the time the
encampment is made." This is a usual practice of the
country, and St. Germain and myself went on towards
the spot ; it was five o'clock and not very cold, but
rather milder than we had experienced it for some
time, when, on leaving the ice, we saw a number of
crows perched upon the top of some high pines near
us. St. Germain immediately said that there must
be some dead animals thereabouts, and proceeded to
search, when we saw several heads of deer, half buried
in the snow and ice, without eyes or tongues ; the
previous severity of the weather only having obliged
the wolves and other animals to abandon them. An
expression of " Oh merciful God ! we are saved,"
broke from us both ; and with feelings more easily im-
agined than described, we shook hands, not knowing
what to say for joy. It was twilight, and a fog was
rapidly darkening the surface of the lake, when St.
Germain commenced making the encampment ; the
task was too laborious for me to render him any assist-
ance, and had we not thus providentially found pro-
vision, I feel convinced that the next twenty-four
hours would have terminated my existence. But this
good fortune, in some measure, renovated me for the
moment, and putting out my whole strength, I contriv-

In the Arctic Itegiona.

375

cd to collect a few heads, and with incredible difficul-
ty carried them singly about thirty paces to the fire.

Darkness stole on us apace, and I became extreme-
ly anxious about Beauparlant ; several guns were
fired, to each of which he answered. We then called
out, and again heard his responses, though faintly,
when I told St. Germain to go and look for him, as I
had not strength myself, being quite exhausted. He
said, that he had already placed a pine branch on the
ice, and he could then hardly find his way back, but
if he went now he should certainly be lost. In this
situation I could only hope that as Beauparlant had
my blanket, and every thing requisite to light a fire,
he might have encamped at a little distance from us.

October 17. — The night was cold and clear, but we
could not sleep at all, from the pains of having eaten.
We suffered the most excruciating torments, though
I in particular did not eat a quarter of what would
have satisfied me ; it might have bee:^ from using a
quantity of raw or frozen sinews of the legs of deer,
which neither of us could avoid doing, so great was
our hunger. In the morning, being much agitated
for the safety of Beauparlant, I desired St. Germain
to go iu search of him, and to return with him as
quick as possible, when I would have something pre-
pared for them to eat.

It was, however, late when he arrived, with a small

'-i.xMiit'

*

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

1.1

11.25

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li£ 12.0

tii

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U 11.6

7

'^'

Hiotographic

Sciences

Cbiporation

23 WiST MAIN STRHT

WHSTM.N.Y. MSSO

(716) S72-4503

^<^

376

Thirty Years

*

bundle which Beauparlant was accustomed to carry,
and with tears in his eyes, told me that he fcund our
poor companion dead. Dead ! I could not believe
him. " It is so, Sir," said St. Germain, " after hal-
looing and calling his name to no purpose, I went to-
wards our last encampment, about three-quarters of a
mile, and found him stretched upon his back on a sand
bank frozen to death, his limbs all extended and
swelled enormously, and as hard as the ice that was
near him ; his bundle was behind him, as if it had
rolled awav when he fell, and the blanket which he
wore around his neck and shoulders thrown on one
side. Seeing that there was no longer life in him, I
threw your covering over him, and placed his snow-
shoes on the top of it."

I had not even thought of so serious an occurrence
in our little party, and for a short time was obliged to
give vent to my grief. Left with one person and both
of us weak, no appearance of Belanger, a likelihood
that great calamity had taken place amongst our
other companions, and upwards of seventeen days'
march from the nearest Establishment, and myself
unable to carry a burden, all these things pressed
heavy on me ; and how to get to the Indians or to
the Fort I did not know ; but that I might not depress
St. Germain's spirits, I suppressed the feelings which
these thoughts gave rise to, and made some arrange-

In the Arctic Regions.

377

ments for the journey tg Fort Providence. We con-
tinued very weak.

October 18. — While we were this day occupied in
scraping together the remains of some deers* meat, we
observed Belanger coming round a point apparently
scarcely moving. I went to meet him, and made im-
mediate inquiries about my friends. Five, with the
Captain, he said, were at thj house, the rest were left
near the river, unable to proceed ; but he was too
weak to relate the whole. He was conducted to the
encampment, and paid every attention to, and by de-
grees we heard the remainder of his tragic tale, at
which the interpreter could not avoid crying. He
then gave me a letter from my friend the Commander,
which indeed was truly afflicting. The simple story
of Belanger I could hear, but when I read it in another
language, mingled with the pious resignation of a good
man, I could not sustain it any longer. The poor
man was much affected at the death of our lamented
companion, but his appetite prevailed over every other
feeling ; and had I permitted it, he would have done
himself an injury ; for after two hours' eating, prin-
cipally skin and sinews, he complained of hunger.
The day was cloudy, with snow and fresh breezes
from the north-east by east.

The last evening, as well as this morning, the 19 th,
I mentioned my wishes to the men, that we should

378

Thirty Years

■%

proceed towards Reindeer Lal^^ but this proposal met
with a direct refusal. Belanger stated his inability to
move, and St. Germain used similar language ; add-
ing, for the first time, that he did not know the route,
and that it was of no use to go in the direction I men-
tioned, which was the one agreed upon between the
Commander and myself. I then insisted that we
should go by the known route, and join the Com-
mander, but they would not hear of it ; they would
remain where they were until they had regained their
strength ; they said I wanted to expose them again to
death {/aire perir). In vain did I use every argu-
ment to the contrary, for they were equally heedless to
all. Thus situated, I was compelled to remain, and
from this time to the 25th, we employed ourselves in
looking about for the remnants of the deer and pieces
of skin, which even the wolves had left ; and by
pounding the bones, we were enabled to make a sort of
soup, which strengthened us greatly, though each stiU
complained of weakness. It was not without the
greatest difficulty that I could restrain the men from
eating every scrap they found, though they were well
aware of the necessity there was of being economical
in our present situation, and to save whatever they
could for our journey ; yet they could not resist the
temptation, and directly my back was turned they
seldom failed to snatch at the nearest piece to

In the Arctic Regions.

379

them, whether cooked or raw it made no difference.
We had set fishing-lines, but without any success ;
and we often saw large herds of deer crossing the lake
at full speed, and wolves pursuing them.

The night of the 25th was cold, with hard frost.
Early the next morning I sent the men to cover the
body of our departed companion, Beauparlant, with the
trunks and branches of trees, which they did ; and
shortly after their return I opened his bundle, and
found it contained two papers of vermilion, several
strings of beads, some fire-steels, flints, awls, fish-
hooks, rings, linen, and the glass of an artificial hori-
zon. My two men began to recover a little as well as
myself, though I was by far the weakest of the three ;
the soles of my feet were cracked all over, and the
other parts were as hard as a horn, from constant
walking. I again urged the necessity of advancing
to join the Commander's party, but they said they
were not yet sufficiently strong.

On the 27th we discovered the remains of a deer,
on which we feasted. The night was unusually cold,
and ice formed in a pint-pot within two feet of a fire.
The corruscations of the Aurora were beautifully bril-
liant ; they served to shew us eight wolves, which we
had some trouble to frighten away from our collection
of deers' bones ; and, with their howling, and the con-
stant cracking of the ice, we did not get much rest.

«

380

Thirty Tears

Having collected with great care, and by self-denial,
two small packets of dried meat or sinews, sufficient
(for men who knew what it was to fast) to last for
eight days, at the rate of one indifferent meal per day,
we prepared to set out on the 30th. I calculated that
we should be about fourteen days in reaching Fort
Providence ; and, allowing that we neither killed deer
nor found Indians, we could but be unprovided with
food six days, and this we heeded not whilst the pros-
pect of obtaining full relief was before us. According-
ly we set out against a keen north-east wind, in order
to gain the known route to Fort Providence. We
saw a number of wolves and some crows on the middle
of the lake, and supposing such an assembly was not
met idly, we made for them, and came in for a share
of a deer, which they had killed a short time before,
and thus added a couple of meals to our stock. By
four P.M. we gained the head of the lake, or the di-
rect road to Fort Providence, and some dry wood being
at hand, we encamped ; by accident it was the same
place where the Commander's party had slept on the
19th, the day on which I suppose they had left Fort
Enterprize ; but the encampment was so small, that
we feared great mortality had taken place among them ;
and I am sorry to say the stubborn resolution of my
men, not to go to the house, prevented me from deter-
mining this most anxious point, so that I now almost

In the Arctic Regions.

381

dreaded passing their encampments, lest I should see
Bom-e of our unfortunate friends dead at each spot.
Our fire was hardly kindled, when a fine herd of deer
passed close to us. St. Germain pursued them a short
distance, but with his usual want of success, so that
we made a meal off the muscles and sinews we had
dried, though they were so tough that we could scarce-
ly cut them. My hands were benumbed throughout
the march, and we were all stiff and fatigued. The
marching of two days weakened us all very much, and
the more so on account of our exertion to follow the
tracks of our Commander's party ; but we lost them,
and concluded that they were not before us. Though
the weather was not cold, I was frozen in the face,
and was so reduced and affected by these constant ca-
lamities, as well in mind as in body, that I found much
difficulty in proceeding even with the advantages I had
enjoyed.

November 3. — We set out before day, though, in
fact, we were all better adapted to remain, from the
excessive pain which we suffered in our joints, and pro-
ceeded till one P.M., without halting, when Belanger,
who was before, stopped, and cried out, "Footsteps
of Indians." It is needless to mention the joy that
brijirhtened the countenances of each at this unlooked-
for sight ; we knew relief must be at hand, and con-
sidered our sufferings at an end. St. Germain inspect-

*

■^'

882

Thirty Years

ed tho tracks, and said that three persons had passed
the day before ; and that he knew the remainder must
be advancing; to the southward, as it was customary
with Indians, when they sent to tho trading establish-
ment on the first ice. On this information we en-
camped, and, being too weak to walk myself, I sent
St. Germain to follow the tracks, with instructions to
the Chief of the Indians to provide immediate assist-
ance for such of our friends who might be at Fort En-
terprize, as well as for ourselves, and to lose no time
in returning to me. I was now so exhausted, that
had we not seen the tracks this day, I had determined
on remainin*^ at the next encampment, until the men
could have sent aid from Fort Providence. We had
finished our small portion of sinews, and were prepar-
ing for rest, when an Indian boy made his appearance
with meat. St. Germain had arrived before sunset at
the tents of Akaitcho, whom he found at the si)ot
where he had wintered last year ; but imagine my sur-
prise, when he gave me a note from the Commander,
and said, that Benoit and Augustus, two of the men,
had just joined them. The note was so confused, by
the pencil marks being partly ijibbed out, that I could
not decipher it clearly ; but it informed me, that he
had attempted to come with the two men, but finding
his strength inadequate to the task, he relinquished
nis design, and returned to Fort Enterprize, to await

M

In the Antic lie (/tons.

383

relief with the others. There was another note for the
gentleman in charge of Fort Providence, desiring him
to send meat, blankets, shoes, and tobacco. Akaitcho
wiKhed me to join him on the ensuing day, at a place
which the boy knew, where they were going to fish ;
and I was the more anxious to do so, on account of
my two companions : but particularly to hear a full
relation of what had happened, and of the Command-
er's true situation, which I suspected to be much
worse than he had described.

In the afternoon I joined the Indians, and repeated
to Akaitcho what St. Germain had told him ; he
seemed much affected, and said, he would have sent
relief dif^ctly, though I had not been there ; indeed,
his conduct was generous and humane. The next
morning, at an early hour, three Indians, with loaded
sledges of meat, skins, shoes, and a blanket, set out
for Fort Enterprize ; one of them was to return
directly with an answer from Captain Franklin, to
whom I wrote ; but in the event of his death, he was
to bring away all the papers he could find ; and he
promised to travel with such haste, as to be able to
return to us on the fourth day. I was now somewhat
more easy, having done all in my power to succor my
unfortunate companions ; but was very anxious for
the return of the messenger. The Indians brought
mo meat in small quantities, though sufficient for our

■ i

384

Thirty Years

daily consumption ; and, as we had a little ammuni-
tion, many were paid on the spot for what they gave.
On the 9th I had the satisfaction of seeing the In-
dian arrive from Fort Enterprize. At first he said
they were all dead, but shortly after he gave me a
note, which was from the Commander, and then I
learned all the fatal particulars which had befallen
them. I now proposed that the Chief should imme-
diately send three sledges, loaded with meat, to Fort
Enterprize, to make a cache of provision at our present
encampment, and also, that he should here await the
arrival of the Commander. By noon, two large trains,
laden with meat, were sent off for Fort Enterprize.
The next day we proceeded on our journey, and ar-
rived at Fort Providence on the 21st of November.

Conclusion of Mr. Back's Narrative,

I HAVE little now to add to the melancholy detail
into which I felt it proper to enter ; but I cannot
omit to state, that the unremitting care and attentions
of our kind friends, Mr. M'Vicar and Mr. M'Auley,
together with the improvement of our diet, materially

In the Arctic Begiona.

385

■IF'-' ■

tie ammuni-
it they gave,
jeing the In-
first he said
e gave me a
, and then I
had befallen
hould imme-
Qeat, to Fort
t our present
ere await the
> large trains,
t Enterprize.
Qey, and ar-
November.

itive.

ncholy detail
but I cannot
nd attentions
^Ir. M'Auley,
jt, materially

contributed to the restoration of our health ; so that,
by the end of February, the swellings of our limbs,
which had returned upon us, had entirely subsided,
and we were able to walk to any part of the island.
Our appetites gradually moderated, and we nearly re-
gained our ordinary state of body before the spring.
Hepburn alone suffered from a severe attack of rheu-
matism, which confined him to his bed for some weeks.
The usual symptoms of spring having appeared, on
the 25th of May we prepared to embark for Fort ^
Ohipewyan. Fortunately, on the following morning,
a canoe arrived from that place with the whole of the
stores which we required for the payment of Akaitcho
and the hunters. It was extremely gratifying to us
to be thus enabled, previous to our departure, to make
arrangements respecting the payment of our late In-
dian companions ; and the more so, as we had recently
discovered that Akaitcho, and the whole of the tribe,
in consequence of the death of the. leader's mother,
and the wife of our old guide Keskarrah, had broken
and destroyed every useful article belonging to them,
and that they were in the greatest distress. It was an
additional pleasure to find our stock of ammunition
was more than sufficient to pay them what was due,
and that we could make a considerable present of this
most essential article to every individual that had been

attached to the Expedition.

17

386

Tli'irty Years

We quitted Moose-deer Island at five P.M., on the
26th, accompanied by Mr. M'Vicar and Mr. M'Auley,
and nearly all the voyagers at the establishment, hav-
ing resided there about five months, not a day of which
had passed without our having cause of gratitude, for
the kind and unvaried attentions of Mr. M'Vicar and
Mr. M'Anley. These gentlemen..jiccompanied us as
far as Fort Chipewyan, where we arrived on the 2d of
June ; here we met Mr. Wentzel, aiMi the four men,
who had been seho with him from th * mouth of the
Copper-Mine River ; and I think if due to that gen-
tleman, to giverTs own explanation of tl^ unfortunate
circumstances which prevented him from fulfilling ray
last instructions, respecting t '.he provisions to have

been left for us .ii Fort Enterprize.*

\

♦ " Aflo. you sent me back from the moath of the Copper-Mine
BIfer, iVjoi T uad overtaken the Leader, Guides, aiul Hunters on tho
flllli day leaving the sea-coast, as well as on our journey up the River,
they always expj«ssed tho same desire of fulfilling their promises,
tUthough somewhuu dissatisfied at being exposed to privation while on
our return, from a scarcity of animals ; for as I have already stated in
my first communication from Moose-Deer Island, we had been eleven
days with no other food but iripe de roche. In the course of this time
an Indian, with his wife anid child, who were traveling in company
with us, were left in the rear, and are since supposed to have perished
through want, as no intelligence had been received of them at Fort
Providence in December last. On the 7th day after I had joined the
Xi^der, &c, &c., and journeying on together, all the Indians except-
ing Petit, Pied and Bald-Head, loft me to seek thoir families, and

ii

In the Arctic Regions.

387

In a subseciuent conversation ho stated to me, that
the two Indians, who were actually with him at Fort
Euterprize, whilst ho remained there altering his
canoe, were prevented from hunting, one by an acci-
dental lameness, the other by the fear of meeting
alone some of the Dog-Kib Indians.

crossed Point Lake atu the Crow's Nest, where Humpy had prom-
ised to meet his brother Ekehcho* with the families, but did not fulfill,
nor did any of my party of Indians know where to find them : for we
had frequently mad'' "ei to upprizo them of our approach, yet none
appeared in retur a-* i^^vprs. Thii disappointment, as might bo ex-
pected, served f • invv f th-? ilJ-humc of the Leader and party, the
brooding of which Cayreea'dy <> (i"'\ n custciii ) was liberally dis-
charged on mo in bi; i>\ i u^h I'or living led them from their fam-
ilies, and exn'Jdf ' len^ Ic .'iK'ers and hardshipi, which but
for my iilfl U!t , .v , -a; ', U vy might have spared themselves.
Neverthele^f i' • vH -^ >r nueu to profess the siacerest desire of
meeting your wl jes m-. 6y j, caci. .: >*' ^ - ' ' is, and remaining
until a late season on . >*• road that, leads* uom Foil Entpr^^rlie to
Fort Providence, thro .;1i which the Xxpomhon-men ha traveled so
often the year before — remarking, how over, at the srinio time, that
they had not the least hopes of ever seeing one p.^rson return from
the Expedition. These alarming fears I never could persuade them
to dismiss from their miuda ; they always sneered at what they called
' my credulity,' — * If,' said the Gros Pied,f ' the Great Chief (meaning
Captain Franklin,) or any of his party, should pass at my tents, he or
they shall be welcome to all my provisions, or any thing else that I
may have.' And I am sincerely happy to imderstand, by your com-
munication, that in this he had kept his word — in sending you with

'it

♦ Akaitcho the leader.

•fAlso Akaitcho.

388

Uliiriy Tears

We were lure furnished with a canoe'by Mr Smith,
and ft bowman, to act as our guide ; and having left
Fort Chipewyan on the 5th, we arrived, on the 4th of
July, at Norway House. Finding at this place, that\
canoes were about to go down to Montreal, I gave all
our Canadian voyagers their discharges, and sent them
by those vessels, furnishing them with orders on the
Agent of the Hudson's Bay Company for the amount
of their wages. Wo carried Augustus down to York

Bucb promptitude and liberality the assistance your truly droadAil
situation required. But the party of Indians, on whom I had placed
the utmost confldenCO and dependence, was Humpy and tlie White
CaiK>tQuide, witli their sons and soveral of the discharged Hunters fh)m
the £xi)edition. This i>arty was well-disposed, and readily promised
to collect provisions for the possible return of tlie Expedition, provid-
ed they could get a supply of ammunition ftxtm Fort Providence ; for
when I came up with them, they were actually starving, and converting
old axes into ball, having no other substitute — this was unlucky. Yet
they wore well inclined, and I expected to find means at Fort Provi-
dence to send tliem a supply, in which I was, however, disappointed, for
I found tliat oslablishment quite destitute of necessaries ; and then,
tthortly after I had left them, they had the misfortune of losing three
of their hunters, who were drowned in Marten Lake ; this accident
was, of all otliers, the most fiital that could have happened — a truth
which no one, who has the least knowledge of the Indian character,
will deny ; and as they were nearly connected by relationship to the
Leader, Humpy, and White Cnpot Guide, the three leading men of this
IMirt of tho Copper Indian Tribe, it had the effect of unlunging (if I
may use the expression,) tlie minds of all these families, and finally
destroying all the fond hopes I had so .'anguinely conceived of their

In tht Arctic Regions,

389

Mr Smith,
having left
the 4th of
place, that
, I gave all
sent them
ers on the
he amount
m to York

Tuly dreadAiI
i I had placed
nd the White
. Hunters fVom
Jily promised
iition, pix)vid-
ovideiice; for
iid converting
nlucky. Yet .
i Fort Provi-
appointed, for
s; and then,
losing throe
this accident
lied— a truth
tn character,
»nship to the
a: men cf this
hinging (if I
1, and finally
ived of their

Factory, where we arrived on the 14th of July, and
were received with every mark of attention and kind-
ness by Mr. Simpson, the Governor, Mr. M'Tavish,
and, indeed, by all the officers of the United Com-

)anies. And thus terminated our long, fatiguing,
and disastrous travels in North America, having jour-
neyed by water and by land (including our navigation

*f the Polar Sea,) five thousand five hundred and fifty
aailes. v

assisting the expedition, should it come back by the Annadesse River,
of which Uiey were not certain.

•' As to my not leaving a letter at Fort Enterprize, it was because
by some mischance, you had forgot to give me paper when we
parted.* *

" I however wrote this news on a plank, in pencil, and plaqed it in
the top of your former bedstead, where I left it. Since it has not
been found there, some Indians must have gone to the house after my
departure, and destroyed it. These details, Sir, I have been induced
to enter into (rather unexpectedly,) in justification of myself, and hope
it will bo satisfactory."

♦ 1 certainly offend Mr. Wmtzel some paper when he quitted us, but h«
dedined it, having then a note book ; and Mr, Back gave him a pencU,

t

390

Tldrty Years

CHAPTER XIV.

Franklin's Second Great Expedition was made
in 1825, and over much of the same ground as that
traversed in his first. His preparations were more
complete than on his first Expedition. His old friends
Richardson and Back accompanied him, the whole
party crossing the Atlantic in an American packet,
and passing through the State of New York. At
New York, Albany, and other places on their route
receiving the enthusiastic attention of the people —
to Canada and thence to Methoye River, north of
Hudson's Bay, where they — the officers — joined the
boats of the Expedition.

On the 30th of June, the party entered the Methoye
River, and early in July crossed the lake of the same
name. On the 12 th, Capt. Franklin and Dr. Richard-
son set out in a canoe for Fort Chipewyan, to mako
preparations for the entire party. On the I5th they
arrived at Athabasca Lake, and were by night at the
Fort. By the end of the month Fort Resolution was

In the Arctic Regions'.

.tm •

391

reached, and all the portages on the road to Bear Lake
crossed. The first week in August was spent on the
Mackenzie River in getting to Fort Simpson. On the
8th of August a voyage to the sea was agreed upon
for Capt. Franklin, while Dr. Richardson should coast
above the northern shore of Bear Lake to the Copper-
Mine River, while Lieutenant Back was to prepare
winter quarters for the entire party. Oapt. Franklin
set off at noon, arriving in two days at Fort Good
Hope, the lowest station of the Hudson Company.
By the middle of August they reached latitude 69^*,
14' N.,— longitude 135^, 57' W.,— the north-eastern
entrance to the main channel of Mackenzie River, and
1045 miles from Slave Lake. Salt water was
reached, and the party indulged in a little enthusiasm.
The next day the boats were turned towards the
Mackenzie on their way back to winter quarters.
September 1st, the river Mackenzie was left for a
stream which flows from Bear Lake, and on the 5th
reached the winter quarters.

The winter of 1825-6 was passed by the company
in comparative comfort. Buildings were erected and
a plentiful supply of provisions stored in them, to-
gether with the expected supplies from fishing and
hunting, to carry the party cozily through another
year.

Amusements were also provided for the men, while

392

Tliirty Tears

the officers made good use of a stock of books and
quarterlies which they had brought with thera.

The winter, though severe, passed rapidly away,
and spring opened. We quote from Franklin's
Journal.

w^neBday Qu tho 24th of May, 1826, the mosquitoes
appeared, feeble at first, but, after a few days, they
became vigorous and tormenting. The first flower, a
tussilago, was gathered on the 27th. Before the close
of the month, several others were in bloom, of which
the most abundant was the white anemone. The
leaf-buds had not yet burst, though just ready to
open.

The carpenters had now finished the new boat,
which received the name of the Reliance. It was
constructed of fir, with birch timbers, after the model
of our largest boat, the Lion, but with a more full
bow, and a finer run abaft. Its length was twenty-
six feet, and breadth five feet eight inches. It was
fastened in the same manner as the other boats, but
with iron instead of copper, and to procure sufficient
nails we were obliged to cut up all the spare axes,
trenches, and ice-chisels. Being without tar, we
substituted strips of water-proof canvas, soaked in
some caoutchouc varnish, which we bad brought out,
to lay between the seams of the planks ; and for
paint, we made use of resin, procured from the pine-

•• .-m.

In the Arctic Regions,

393

treefl, boiled and mixed with grease. The other boats
were afterwards put in complete repair. The Lion
required the most, in consequence of the accident in
Bear Lake River. The defects in the other two prin-
cipally arose from their having been repaired at Cum-
berland House with the elm that grows in its vicinity,
and is very spongy. We now substituted white spruce
fir, which, when grown in these high latitudes, is an
excellent wood for boat-building. We were surprised
to find, that, notwithstanding the many heavy blows
these boats had received in their passage to this place,
there was not a timber that required to be changed.
May. In our bustle, we would gladly have dispensed
with the presence of the Dog-Ribs (Indians) who now
visited us in great numbers, without bringing any
supplies. They continued hanging about the fort,
and their daily drumming and singing over the sick,
the squalling of the children, and bawling of the
men and women, proved no small annoyance. We
were pleased, however, at perceiving that the ammu-
nition we had given to them in return for meat, had
enabled them to provide themselves with leathern
tents. Their only shelter from wind, snow, or rain,
before this season, had been a rude barricade of pine
branches. Fortunately, for our comfort, they were
obliged to remove before the expiration of the month
to a distant fishery to procure provision.

394

Thirty Years

ThSrV "^h® preparations for the voyage ^long the
coast being now in a state of forwardness, my atten-
tion was directed to the providing for the return of
Dr. Richardson's party to this establishment in the
following autumn, and to the securing means of sup-
port for all the members of the Expedition at this
place, in the event of the western party being like-
wise compelled to return to it. Respecting the first
point, it was arranged that Beaulieu the interpreter,
and four Canadians, should quit Fort Franklin on the
6th of August, and proceed direct to Dease River
with a bateau, and wait there until the 20th of Sep-
tember, when, if Dr. Richardson did not appear,
they were to come back to the fort in canoes, and to
leave the boat, with provision and other necessaries,
for the use of the eastern detachment. All these
points were explained to Beaulieu, and he not only
understood every part of the arrangement, but seem-
ed very desirous to perform the important duty en-
trusted to him. I next drew up written instructions
for the guidance of Mr. Dease, during the absence of
the Expedition, directing his attention first to the
equipment and despatch of Beaulieu on the 6 th of
August, and then to the keeping the establishment
well-stored with provision. He was aware of the
probability that the western party would meet his
Majesty's ship Blossom, and go to Canton in her.

In the Arctic Regions.

395

But as unforeseen circumstances might compel ua to
winter on the coast, I considered it necessary to warn
him against inferring, from our not returning in the
following autumn, that we had reached the Blossom.
He was, therefore, directed to keep Fort Franklin
complete, as to provision, until the spring of 1828.
Dr. Richardson was likewise instructed, before he left
the fort in 1827, on his return to England, to see that
Mr. Dease fully understood my motives for giving
these orders, and that he was provided with the
means of purchasing the necessary provision from the
Indians.

"^Uj- The long reign of the east wind was at length
terminated by a fresh N. W. breeze, and the ice yet
remaining on the small lake soon disappeared, under
the softening effects of this wind. This lake had
been frozen eight months, wanting three days.
A narrow channel being opened along the western
border of Bear Lake, on the 14th Dr. Richardson took
advantage of it, and went in a small canoe with two
men to examine the mountains on the borders of Bear .
Lake River, and to collect specimens of the plants
that were now in flower, intending to rejoin the party
at Fort Norman. On the same day, in 1821, the for-
mer Expedition left Fort Enterprise for the sea.

'^Jj'^f- The equipments of the boats being now com-
plete, they were launched on the small lake, and tried

396

Thirty Years

under oars and sails. In the afternoon the men were
appointed to their respective stations, and furnished
with the sky-blue waterproof uniforms, an3 feathers,
as well as with the warm clothing which had been
provided for the voyage. I acquainted them fully
with the object of the Expedition, and pointed out
their various duties. They received these communi-
cations with satisfaction, were delighted with the
prospect of the voyage, and expressed their readiness
to commence it immediately. Fourteen men, includ-
ing Augustus, were appointed to accompany myself
and Lieutenant Back, in the Lion and Beliance, the
two larger boats ; and ten, including Ooligbuck, to
go with Dr. Kichardson and Mr. Kendall, in the Dol-
phin and Union. In order to make up the complement
of fourteen for the western partyj I proposed to re-
ceive two volunteers from the Canadian voyagers ; and
to the credit of Canadian enterprise, every man came
forward. I chose Francois Felix and Alexis Vivier,
because they were the first who offered their services,
and this too without any stipulation as to increase of
wages.

Spare blankets and everything that could be useful
for the voyage, or as presents to the Esquimaux,
which our stores could furnish, were divided between
the eastern and western parties, and put up into bales
of a size convenient for stowage. This interesting

j!

In the Arctic Regions.

397

day was closed by the consumption of a small quanti-
ty of rum, reserved for the occasion, followed by a
merry dance, in which all joined with great glee, in
their working dresses. On the following Sunday the
officers and men assembled at Divine service, dressed
in their new uniforms ; and in addition to the ordi-
nary service of the day, the special protection of
Providence, was implored on the enterprise we were
about to commence. The guns were cleaned the next
day, and stowed in the arm chests, which had been
made to fit the boats. Tuesday and Wednesday
were set apart for the officers and men to pack their
own things. A strong western breeze occurred on the
21st, which removed the ice from the front of the
house and opened a passage to the Bear Lake Eiver.
The men were sent with the boats and stores to the
river in the evening, and were heartily cheered on
quitting the beach. The officers remained to pack
up the charts, drawings, and other documents, which
were to be left at the fort ; and, in the event of none
of the officers returning, Mr. Dease was directed to
forward them to England. We quitted the house at
half past ten, on Tuesday morning, leaving Cot6,
the fisherman, in charge, until Mr. Dease should return
from Fort Norman. This worthy old man, sharing
the enthusiasm that animated the whole party, would
not allow us to depart without giving his hearty,
tbangh solitary cheer, which we returned in full chorus.

398

Thirty Years

CHAPTER XV.

rhnrs.
22nd.

On our arrival at the Bear Lake Eiver, we
were mortified to find the ice drifting down in large
masses, with such rapidity as to render embarkation
unsafe. The same cause detained us the whole of
the following day ; and as we had brought no more
provision from the house than sufiicient for an unin-
terrupted passage to Fort Norman, we sent for a sup-
ply of fish. This was a very sultry day, the thermom-
eter in the shade being 71^ at noon, and 74** at three

P.M.

The descent of the ice having ceased at eight in
the morning of the 24th, we embarked. The heavy
stores were put into a bateau, manned by Canadians,
who were experienced in the passage through rapids,
and the rest of the boats were ordered to follow in its
wake, keeping at such a distance from each other as
to allow of any evolution that might be necessary to
avoid the stones. The boats struck several times,
but received no injury. At the foot of the lapid we

In the Arctic Regions.

399

met a canoe, manned by four of our Canadian voya-
pjers, whom Dr. Richardson had sent with some letters
that had arrived at Fort Norman from the Athabasca
Lake ; and as the services of the men were wanted,
they were embarked in the boats, and the canoe was
left. Shortly afterwards we overtook Beaulieu, who
had just killed a young moose deer, which afforded the
party two substantial meals. At this spot, and gen-
erally along the river, we found abundance of wild
onions. ^

We entered the Mackenzie River at einrht in the
evening, and the current being too strong for us to
advance against the stream with oars, we had recourse
to the tracking line, and traveled all night. It was
fatiguing, owing to large portions of the banks having
been overthrown by the disruption of the ice, and
from the ground being so soft that the men dragging
the rope sank up to the knees at every step ; but
these impediments were less regarded than the cease-
less torment of the musquitoes. We halted to sup at
the spot where Sir A. Mackenzie saw the flame rising
from the bank in 1789. The precipice was still on
fire, the smoke issuing through several apertures.
Specimens of the coal were procured.
^^ihJ ^® reached Fort Norman at noon on the
25th. On the following morning the provision and
stores which had been left at this place were exam-

400

Thirty Years

ined, and found to be in excellent order, except the
powder in one of the magazines, which had become
caked from damp. I had ordered a supply of iron-
work, knives, and beads, for the sea voyage from Fort
Simpson ; they had arrived some days before us, and
with our stock thus augmented, we were well furnished
with presents for the natives. The packages being
finished on the 27th, the boats received their respec-
tive ladings, and we were rejoiced to find that each
stowed her cargo well, and with her crew embarked
floated as buoyantly as our most sanguine wishes had
anticipated. The heavy stores, however, were after-
wards removed into a bateau that was to be taken to
the mouth of the river, to prevent the smaller boats
from receiving injury in passing over the shoals.

We waited one day to make some pounded meat
we had brought into pemmican. In the meantime
the seamen enlarged the foresail of the Reliance.

The letters which I received from the Athabasca
department informed me that the things I had re-
quired from the Company in "February last, would be
duly forwarded ; they likewise contained a very dif-
ferent version of the story which had led us to suppose
that Captain Parry was passing the winter on the
northern coast. We now learned that the Indians
had only seen some pieces of wood recently cut, and a
deer that had been killed by an arrow ; these things

In the Arctic Begiona.

401

we concluded were done by the Esquimaux. Three
men from Slave Lake, whom I had sent for to supply
the place of our Chipewyan hunters, who were very
inactive last winter, joined us at this place. They
were to accompany Mr. Dease and the Canadians to
Fort Franklin ; and that they, as well as the Indians,
might have every encouragement to exert themselves
in procuring provision during the summer, I directed
a supply of the goods they were Kkely to require, to
be sent from Fort Simpson, as soon as possible.
^^28th.^*^ Early this morning the boats were laden
and decorated with their ensigns and pendants, and
after breakfast we quitted the Fort, amidst the hearty
cheers of our friends Mr. Dease, Mr. Brisbois, and the
Canadians, and T am sure carried their best wishes for

our success. We halted at noon to obtain the lati-

*

tude, which placed the entrance of Bear Lake River
in 64^ 55' ZT' N. ; and Dr. Richardson took advan-
tage of this delay to visit the mountain at that point,
but his stay was short, in consequence of a favorable
breeze springing up. We perceived that the four
boats sailed at nearly an equal rate in light' breezes,
but that in strong winds the two larger ones had the
advantage. When we landed to sup the musquitoes
beset us so furiously that we hastily despatched the
meal and re-embarked, to drive under easy sail before
the current. They continued, however, to pursue us,

402

Thirty Years

apd deprived us of all rest. On our arrival, next
morning, at the place of the first rapids, there was
scarcely any appearance of broken water, and the sand-
bank on which Augustus had been so perilously situa-
ted in the preceding autumn, was entirely covered.
This was, of course, to be ascribed to the spring floods ;
the increase of water to produce such a change, must
have exceeded six feet. In the afternoon we were
overtaken by a violent thunder-storm, with heavy
rain, which made us apprehensive for the pemmican,
that spoils on being wet. It unfortunately happened
that a convenient place for spreading out the bags
that were injured could not be found, until we reached
the Hare-Skin River, below the Rampart Defile, which
was at nine o'clock. They were spread out the next
morning, with the other perishable parts of the cargo,
and we remained until they were dry. We embarked *■
at ten, and, aided by a favorable breeze, made good
progress until six p.m., when the threatening appear-
ance of the clouds induced us to put on shore, and we
had but just covered the baggage before heavy rain
fell, that continued throughout the night. Four
Hare Indians came to the encampment, to whom dried
meat and ammunition were given, as they were in
want of food from being unable to set their nets in
the present high state of the water. These were the
only natives seen since our departure from Fort Nor-

)'

In the Arctic Regions.

403

man ; they informed us, that, in consequence of noj^
being able to procure a sufficiency of fish in the Mac-
kenzie at this season, their companions had withdrawn
to gain their subsistence from the small lakes in the
interior.

iBtf ^® embarked at half-past one on the morning ot
July. The sultry weather of the preceding day made
us now feel more keenly the chill of a strong western
breeze, and the mist which it brought on, about four
hours after our departure. This wind, being contrary
to the current, soon raised such high waves that the
boats took in a great deal of water ; and as we made
but little progress, and were very cold, we landed to
kindle a fire, and prepare breakfast ; after which we
continued the voyage to Fort Good Hope, without
any of the interruptions from sand-banks that we had
experienced in the autumn.

..On our arrival we were saluted with a discharge ot
musketry by a large party of Loucheux, who had been
some time waiting at the Fort, with their wives and
families, for the purpose of seeing us. After a short
conference with Mr. Bell, the master of the post, we
were informed that these Indians had lately met a
numerous party of Esquimaux at the Red River, by
appointment, to purchase their furs ; and that in con-
sequence of a misunderstanding respecting some bar-
gain, a quarrel had ensued between them, which

rr

404

Thirty Years

lirtunately terminated without bloodshed. We could
not, however, gain any satisfactory account of the
movements of the Esquimaux. The only answers to
our repeated questions on these points were, that the
Esquimaux came in sixty canoes to Bed Eiver, and
that they supposed them to have gone down the
eastern channel, for the purpose of fishing near its
mouth. The chief, however, informed us that he had
mentioned our coming to their lands this spring, and
that they had received the intelligence without com-
ment ; but from his not having alluded to this com-
munication until the question was pressed upon him,
and from the manner of his answering our inquiries, I
thought it doubtful whether such a communication
had really been made.

We had been led to expect much information from
the Loucheux respecting the channels of the river, and
the coast on the east and west side near its mouth, but
we were greatly disappointed. They were ignorant of
the channel we ought to follow in order to arrive at
the western mouth of the river ; and the only intelli-
gence they gave us respecting the coast on that side
was, that the Esquimaux represented it to be almost
constantly beset by ice. They said also that they
were unacquainted with the tribes who reside to the
westward. Several ot the party had been down the
eastern channel, of which they made a rude sketch ;

In the Arctic Begions.

405

and their account of the coast on that side was, that^
as far as they were acquainted with it, it was free from
ice during the summer.

Having ascertained that the Esquimaux were likely
to be seen in greater numbers than had been at first
imagined, I increased the stock of presents from the
store at this place, and exchanged two of our guns,
which were defective, that the party might have entire
confidence in their arms. And to provide against the
casualty of either or both branches of the Expedition
having to return this way, I requested Mr. Bell to
store up as much meat as he could during the summer.
We learned from this gentleman that the supply of
meat at this post was very precarious, and that had
we not left the five bags of pemmican in the autumn,
the residents would have been reduced to great distress
for food during the winter. These bags were now re-
placed. The arrangements being concluded, we spent
the greater part of the night in writing to England.
I addressed to the Colonial Secretary an account of
our proceed i>gs up to this time, and I felt happy to
be able to state that we were equipped with every
requisite for the Expedition.

Sunday ^^ quittcd Fort Good Hope at five on the
2nd. In the passage down the river we were visited
by several Loucheux, who, the instant we appeared,
launched their canoes, and came off to welcome us.

406

Thirty Years

We landed, at their request, to purchase fish ; yet,
after the bargain had been completed, an old woman
stepped forward, and would only allow of our receiv-
ing two fish : she maintained her point and carried off
the rest in spite of all remonstrance. The natives
were all clothed in new leathern dresses, and looked
much neater, and in better health, than last autumn.
Being anxious to reach the Eed River, we continued
rowing against the wind until after midnight. On
reaching that place, the ground proved too wet for us
to encamp ; we, therefore, proceeded a short distance
lower down, and put up under some sandstone cliffs,
where there was but just room for the tents. As we
were now on the borders of the Esquimaux territory,
we devoted the following morning to cleaning the
arms ; and a gun, dagger, and ammunition, were is-
sued to each person. We had no reason, indeed, to
apprehend hostility from the Esquimaux, after the
messages they had sent to Fort Franklin, but vigi-
lance and precaution are never to be omitted in inter-
course with strange tribes.

^ff^ Embarking at two in the afternoon of the 3rd,
we soon entered the expansion of the river whence the
different channels branch off, and steering along the
western shore, we came to the head of a branch that
flowed towards the Rocky Mountain range. Being
anxious not to take the eastern detachment out of

In the Arctic Herjions.

407

ment out of

their course, I immediately encamped to make the
necessary arrangements for the separation of the par-
ties. The warm clothing, shoes, and articles for pre-
sents, had been previously put up in separate packages,
but the provisions remained to be divided, which was
done in due proportion. Twenty-six bags of pemmi-
can, and two of grease, were set apart for the Dolphin
and Union, with a supply of arrow-root, macaroni,
flour, and portable soup, making in all eighty days'
provision, with an allowance for waste. The Lion
and Keliance received thirty-two bags of pemmican,
and two of grease, with sufficient arrow-root, &c., to
make their supply proportionate to that of the eastern
party. Provided no accident occurred, neither party
could be in absolute want for the whole summer, be-
cause at two-thirds allowance the pemmican could be
made to last one hundred days ; and we had reason
to expect to meet with deer occasionally. In the even-
ing I delivered my instructions to Dr. Kichardson.

As the parties entertained for each other sentiments
of true friendship and regard, it will easily be imagin-
ed that the evening preceding our separation was
spent in the most cordial and cheerful manner. We
felt that we were only separating to be employed on
services of equal interest ; and we looked forward with
delight to our next meeting, when, after a successful
termination, we might recount the incidents of our

408

Thirty Years

respective voyages. The best supper our means af-
forded was provided, and a bowl of punch crowned
the parting feast.

We were joined by an elderly Loucheux, who gave
us a better account of the eastern and western chan-
nels than we had hitherto obtained. " The west
branch," he said, " would take us to the sea, and flowed
the whole way at no great distance from the mountains."
" The eastern was a good channel, and passed close to
the hills on that side." He further informed us that
the Esquimaux were generally to be found on an island
in the eastern channel, but were seldom seen in the
western branch. He was, however, unacquainted with
the coast, and we found afterwards that he knew little
about the movements of the Esquimaux.
Tuesday gy gj^ jjj ^jjg morning of the 4th the boats

were all laden, and ready for departure. It was im-
possible not to be struck with the difference between
our present complete state of equipment and that on
which we had embarked on our former disastrous voy-
age. Instead of a frail bark canoe, and a scanty sup-
ply of food, we were now about to commence the sea
voyage in excellent boats, stored with three months'
provision. At Dr. Richardson's desire the western
party embarked first. He and his companions saluted
us with three hearty cheers, which were warmly re-
turned ; and as we were passing round the poia: that

In the Arctic Begiona,

409

was to hide them from our view, we perceived them
also embarking. Augustus was rather melancholy, as ^
might have been expected, on his parting from Oolig-
buck, to proceed he knew not whither ; but he recov-
ered his wonted flow of spirits by the evening.

Our course was directly towards the Eocky Moun-
tain range, till we came near the low land that skirts
its base ; where, following the deepest channel, we
turned to the northward. I was desirous of coasting
the main shore, but finding some of the westernmost
branches too shallow, we kept on the outside of three
islands for about twelve miles, when we entered the
channel that washes the west side of Simpson's Is-
land. It was winding, and its breadth seldom exceed-
ed a quarter of a mile. During our progress we oc-
casionally caught a glimpse of the Eocky Mountains,
which was an agreeable relief to the very dull picture
that the muddy islands in our neighborhood afforded.
"We halted to breakfast just before noon, and observed
the latitude 67^* 51' N.

In the afternoon one deer was seen, and many
swans and goese ; we did not fire at them, for fear of
alarming any Esquimaux that might be near. En-
camped at eight p. m., opposite Simpson's Island.
The boats were secured without discharging the car-
goes, and two men were placed on guard, to be reliev-
ed every two hours.

18

4L0

Thirty Years

^Sf- We set forward at four A. M., with a favorable
^ breeze, and made good progress, though the river was
very winding. At eight we entered a branch that
turned to the westward round the point of Halkett
Ishind into the channel washing the main shore. We
soon afterwards arrived at a spot where a large body
of Esquimaux had been encamped in the spring, and
supposing that they might revisit this place, a present
of an ice-chisel, kettle, and knife, was hung up in a
conspicuous situation. Soon after we had entered the
channel that flows by the main shore, we first perceiv-
ed lop-sticks, or pine trees, divested of their lower
branches, for the purpose of land-marks, and there-
fote concluded it was much frequented by the Esqui-
maux. Our course was then altered to N. W., and
we soon passed the last of the well wooded islands.
The spruce fir-trees terminated in latitude 68° 36' N. ;
and dwarf willows only grew below this part. A very
picturesque view was obtained of the Rocky Moun-
tains, and we saw the entire outline of their peaked
hills, table-land, and quoin-shaped terminations. Two
lofty ranges were fronted by a lower line of round-
backed hills, in which we perceived the strata to
be horizontal, and the stone of a yellow color. A
few miles lower down we found hills of sand close to
the west border of the river. We passed several de-
serted huts, anci in one spot saw many chips and

In the Arctic Regions,

4L1

pieces of split drift-wood, that appeared to have been
recently cut. The channel varied in breadth from a ^
half to three-quarters of a mile, but, except in the
stream of the current, the water was so shallow as
scarcely to float the boats, and its greatest depth did
not exceed five feet. We landed at eight p. m., on
Ilalkett Island, intending to encamp, but owing to
the swampiness of the ground the tent could not be
pitched. Plaving made a fire and cooked our supper,
we retired to sleep under the coverings of the boats,
which atforded us good shelter from a gale and heavy
rain that came on before midnight. Latitude 68°
39' N., longitude 135° 35' W.

^6th?' "^^^ continuance of stormy weather detained
us until two P.M. of the 6th, when, the rain ceasing^
we embarked. After passing through the expansion
of the river near the west extreme of Halkett Island,
we turned into the narrower and more winding chan-
nel, between Oolvill Island and the main. A fog
coming on at eight p.m. we encamped. Several of the
glaucous gulls were seen, and this circumstance, as
well as a line of bright cloud to the N.W. resembling
the ice-blink, convinced us that the sea was not far
oif. A rein-deer appearing near the encampment, two
men were sent after it, who returned unsuccessful.
Augustus obtained a goose for supper. Many geese,
swans, and ducks, had been seen on the marshy shores

" *he island in the course of the day.

412

Thirty Years

^TUiT' '^^^ night was cold, and at day-light on the
7th the thermometer indicated 36°. Embarking at
four A.M. we sailed down the river for two hours, when
our progress was arrested by the shallowness of the
water. Having endeavored, without effect, to drag
the boats over the flat, we remounted the stream to
examine an opening to the westward, which we had
passed. On reaching the opening we found the cur-
rent setting through it into the Mackenzie, by which
we knew that it could not afford a passage to the sea,
but we pulled up it a little way, in the hop^of ob-
taining a view over the surrounding low grounds f^ m
.the top of an Esquimaux -house which we saw before
us. A low fog, which had prevailed all the morning,
cleared away, and we discovered that the stream we
had now ascended issued from a chain of lakes lying
betwixt us and the western hills, whi^h were about
six miles distant, the whole intervenint; country be-
tween the hills, and the Mackenzie being flat.

After obtaining an observation for longitude in 136°
19' W., and taking the bearing of several remarkable
points of the Kocky Mountain range, we returned to
the Mackenzie, and passing the shallows which had
before impeded us, by taking only half the boats' car-
goes over at a time, we came in sight of the mouth of
the river. Whilst the crews were stowing the boats,
I obtained an observation for latitude in 68° 53' N.,

In the Arctic Regions.

413

t on the

rking at

rs, when

is of the

to drag

ream to

I we had

the cur-

3y which

the sea,

► of ob-

nds fi. m

.w before

morning,

tream we

kes lying

re about

mtry be-

3 in 136^

narkable
urned to
lich had
)ats' car-
oaouth of
le boats,
* 53' N.,

and having walked towards the mouth of the river,
discovered on an island, which formed the east side of
the bay into which the river opened, a crowd of tents,
with many Esquimaux strolling amongst them. I in-
stantly hastened to tho boats, to make preparations
for opening a communication with them, agreeably to
my instructions. A selection of articles for presents
and trade being made, the rest of the lading was close-
ly covered up ; the arms were inspected, and every
man was directed to keep his gun ready for immediate
use. I had previously informed Lieutenant Back of
my intention of opening the communication with the
Esquimaux by landing amongst them, accompanied
only by Augustus ; and I now instructed him to keep
the boats afloat, and the crews with their arms ready
to support us in the event of the natives proving hos-
tile ; but on no account to fire until he was convinced
that our safety could be secured in no other way.
Having received an impression from the narratives of
different navigators that the sacrifices of life which had
occurred in their interviews with savages, had been
generally occasioned by the crews mistaking noise and
violent gestures for decided hostility, I thought it ne-
cessary to explain my sentiments on this point to all
the men, and peremptorily forbade their firing till I
set the example, or till they were ordered to do so by
Lieutenant Back. They were also forbidden to trade

414

Thirty Years

with the natives on any pretence, and were ordered to
leave every thing of that kind to the officers.
/• • *0n quitting the channel of the river we entered into
the bay, which was about six miles wide, with an un-
bounded prospect to seaward, and steered towards the
tents under easy sail, with the ensigns flying. The
water became shallow as we drew towards the island,
and the boats touched the ground when about a mile
from the beach ; we shouted, and made signs to the
Esquimaux to come off", and then pulled a short way
back to await their arrival in deeper water. Three
canoes instantly put off from the shore, and before
they could reach us others were launched in such quick
succession, that the whole space between the island
and the boats was covered by them. The Esquimaux
canoes contain only one person, and are named
kaiyacks ; but they have a kind of open boat capable
of holding six or eight people, which is named oomiah.
The men alone use the kaiyacks, and the oomiaks are
allotted to the women and children. We endeavored
to count their numbers as they approached, and had
proceeded as far as seventy-three canoes, and five
oomiaks, when the sea became so crowded by fresh
arrivals, that we could advance no farther in our
reckoning. The three headmost canoes were paddled
by elderly men, who, most probably, had been selected
to open the communication. They advanced towards

In the Arctic Bcgiona.

415

rdered io

3red into
h an un-
^ards the
g. The
e island,
it a mile
IS to the
lort way
Three
d before
3h quick
le island
[uimaux

named
capable
oomiak.
iaks are
ieavored
md had
ind five
by fresh

in our
paddled
selected
towards

us with much caution, halting when just within
speaking distance, until they had been assured of our
friendship, and repeatedly invited by Augustus to ap-
proach and receive the present which I offered to
them. Augustus next explained to them in detail the
purport of our visit, and told them that if we suc-
ceeded in finding a navigable channel for large ships,
a trade highly beneficial to them would be opened.
They were delighted with this intelligence, and re-
peated it to their countrymen, who testified their joy
by tossing their hands aloft, and raising the most
deafening shout of applause I ever heard.

After the first present, I resolved to bestow no more
gratuitously, but always to exact something, however
small, in return ; the thrie^elderly men readily offered
the ornaments they wore in their cheeks, their arms,
and knives, in exchange for the articles I gave them.
Up to this time the first three were the only kaiyacks
that had ventured neaf the boats, but the natives
around us had now incr^sed to two hundred and fifty
or three hundred persons, and they all became anxious
to share in the lucrative trade which they saw estab-
lished, and pressed eagerly upon us, offering for sale
their bows, arrows, and gpears, which they had hither-
to kept conceale^l within their canoes. I endeavored
in vain, amidst i.. clamor and bustle of trade, to ob-
tain some information respecting the coast, but finding

416

Thirty Years

the natives becoming more and more importunate and
troublesome, I determini'd to leave thom, and, there-
fore, dii^cted the boats' heads to bo put to seaward.
Notwithstanding the forwardness of the Esquimaux,
which we attributed solely to the desire of a rude
people to obtain the novel articles they saw in our
possession, they had hitherto shown no unfriendly
disposition ; and when we told them of our intention
of going to sea. they expressed no desire to detain us,
but, on the contrary, when the Lion grounded in the
act of turning, they assisted us in the kindest manner
by dragging her round. Tliis manoeuvre was not of
much advantage to us, for, from the rapid ebbing of
the tide, both boats lay aground ; and the Esquimaux
told us, through the medium of Augustus, that the
whole bay was alike flat, which we afterwards found
to be correct.

An accident happened at this time, which was
productive of unforeseen and very annoying conse-
quences. A kaiyack being overset by one of the
Lion's oars, its owner was plunged into the water with
his head in the mud, and apparently in danger of
being drowned. We instantly extricated him from
his unpleasant situation, and took him into the boat
until the water could be thrown out of his kaiyack,
and Augustus, seeing him shivering with cold, wrapped
him up in his own great coat. At first he was ex-

In the Arctic Regions ,

417

coedingly angry, but soon booamo reoonoiled to his
Bituation, and looking about, discovered that we had
many bales, and other artiolos, in the boat, which had
been concealed from the people in the kaiyacks, by the
coverings being carefully spread over all. He soon
began to ask for every thing he saw, and expressed
much displeasure on our refusing to comply with bis
demands ; he also, as we afterwards learned, excited
the cupidity of others by his account of the inex-
haustible riches in the Lion, and several of the younger
men endeavored to get into both our boats, but we
resisted all their attempts. Though we had not
hitherto observed any of them stealing, yet they
showed so much desire to obtain my flag, that I had
it furled and put out of sight, as well as every thing
else that I thought could prove a temptation to them.
They continued, however, to press upon us so closely,
and made so many efforts to get into the boats, that I
accepted the offer of two chiefs, who said that if they
were allowed to come in, they would keep the others
out. For a time they kept their word, and the crews
took advantage of the respite thus afforded, to en-
deavor to force the boats towards the river into deeper
water. The Reliance floated, but the Lion was im-
movable, and Lieutenant Back dropping astern again
made his boat fast to the Lion by a rope. At this
time one of the Lion's crew perceived that the man

18*

418

Tliirty Yeurs

whose kaiyack had been upset had a pistol under his
shirt, and was about to take it from him, but I ordered
him to desist, as I thought it might have been pur-
chased from the Loucheux. It had been, in fact,
stolen from Lieutenant Back, and the thief, perceiving
our attention directed to it, leaped out of the boat,
and joined his countrymen, carrying with him the
great coat which Augustus had lent him.

The water bad now ebbed so far, that it was not
knee-deep at the boats, and the younger men wading
in crowds around us, tried to steal every thing within
their reach ; slyly, however, and with so much dex-
terity, as almost to escape detection. The moment
this disposition was manifested, I directed the crews
not to suffer any one to come alongside, and desired
Augustus to tell the two chiefs, who still remained
seated in the Lion, that the noise and confusion
occasioned by the crowd around the boats greatly im-
peded our exertions ; and that if they would go on
shore and leave us for the present, we would hereafter
return from the ship which we expected to meet near
this part of the coast, with a more abundant supply
of goods. They received this communication with
much apparent satisfaction, and jumping out of the
boats repeated the speech aloud to their companions.
From the general exclamation of "teyma," which
followed, and from perceiving many of the elderly men

In the Arctic Begions.

419

retire to a distance, I conceived that they acquiesced
in the propriety of the suggestion, a id that they were
going away, but I was much deceived. They only
retired to concert a plan of attack, and returned in a
short time shouting some words which Augustus could
not make out. We soon, however, discovered their
purport, by two of the three chiefs who were on board
the Reliance, jumping out, and, with the others who
hurried to their assistance, dragging her towards the
south shore of the river. Lieutenant Back desired
the chief who remained with him to tell them to
desist, but he replied by pointing to the beach, and
repeating the word teyma, teymUj with a good-natured
smile. He said, however, something to those who
were seated in the canoes that were alongside, on
which they threw their long knives and arrows into
the boat, taking care, in so doing, that the handles
and feathered ends were turned towards the crew, as
an indication of pacific intentions.

As soon as T perceived the Eeliance moving under
the efforts of the natives, I directed the Lion's crew to
endeavor to follow her, but our boat remained fast un-
til the Esquimaux lent their aid and dragged her after
the Reliance. Two of the most powerful men, jump-
ing on board at the same time, seized me by the wriats
and forced me to sit between them ; and as I shook
them loose two or three times, a third Esquimaux

420

Thirty Tears

took his station in front to catch my arm whenever I
attempted to lift my gun, or the hroad dagger which
hung hymy side. The whole way to the shore they
kept repeating the word " teyma" beating gently on
my left breast with their hands, and pressing mine
against their breasts. As we neared the beach, two
oomiaks, full of women, arrived, and the " teymas '
and vociferation were redoubled. The Eeliance was
first brought to the shore, and the Lion close to her a
few seconds afterwards. The three men who held me
now leaped ashore, and those who had remained in
their canoes, taking them out of the water, carried
them to a little distance. A numerous party then
drawing their knives, and stripping themselves to the
waist, ran to the Eeliance, and having first hauled her
as far up as they could, began a regular pillage, hand-
ing the articles to the women, who, ranged in a row be-
hind, quickly conveyed them out of sight. Lieuten-
ant Back and his crew strenuously, but good-humor-
edly, resisted the attack, and rescued many things
from their grasp, but they were overpowered by num-
bers, and had even some difficulty in preserving their
arms. One fellow had the audacity to snatch Vivier's
knife from his breast, and to cut the buttons from his
coat, whilst three stout Esquimaux surrounded Lieut-
enant Back with uplifted daggers, and were incessant
in their demands for whatever attracted their atten-

In the Arctic Begiona.

421

tion, especially for the anchor buttons which he wore
on his waistcoat. In this juncture a young chief com-
ing to his aid, drove the assailants away. In their re-
treat they carried off a writing desk and cloak, which
the chief rescued, and then seating himself on Lieu-
tenant Back's knee, he endeavored to persuade his
countrymen to desist by vociferating " teyma teyma"
and was, indeed, very active in saving whatever he
could from their depredations. The Lion had hitherto
been beset by smaller numbers, and her crew, by firm-
ly keeping their seats on the cover spread over the
cargo, and by beating the natives off with the butt-
ends of their muskets, had been able to prevent any
article of importance from being carried away. But
as soon as I perceived that the work of plunder was
going on so actively in the Reliance, I went with Au-
gustus to assist in repressing the tumult ; and our
bold and active little interpreter rushed among the
crowd on shore, and harangued them on their treach-
erous conduct, until he was actually hoarse. In a
short time, however, I was summoned back by Dun-
can, who called out to me that the Esquimaux had
now commenced in earnest to plunder the Lion, and,
on my return, I found the sides of the boat lined with
men as thick as they could stand, brandishing their
knives in the most furious manner, and attempting to
seize everything that was movable; whilst another

422

Thirty Years

party was ranged on the outside ready to bear away
the stolen goods. The Lion's crew still kept their
seats, but as it was impossible for so small a number
to keep off such a formidable and determined body,
several articles were carried off. Our principal object
was to prevent the loss of the arms, oars, or masts, or
any thing on which the continuance of the voyage, or
our personal safety, depended. Many attempts were
made to purloin the box containing the astronomical
instruments, and Duncan, after thrice rescuing it from
their hand^, made it fast to his leg with a cord, deter-
mined that they should drag him away also if they
took it.

In the whole of this unequal contest, the self-posses-
sion of our men was not more conspicuous than the
coolness with which the Esquimaux received the heavy
blows dealt to them with the butts of the muskets.
But at length, irritated at being so often foiled in
their attempts, several of them jumped on board and
forcibly endeavored to take the daggers and shot-belts
that were about the men's persons ; and I myself was
engaged with three of them who were trying to disarm
me. Lieutenant Back perceiving our situation, and
fully appreciating my motives in not coming to ex-
tremities, had the kindness to send to my assistance
the young chief who had protected him, and who, on
his arrival, drove my antagonists out of the boat. I

In the Arctic Eegions.

423

then saw that my crew were nearly overpowered in
the fore part of the boat, and hastening to their aid,
I fortunately arrived in time to prevent George Wil-
son from discharging the contents of his musket into
the body of an Esquimaux. He had received a pro-
vocation of which I was ignorant until the next day,
for the fellow had struck at him with a knife, and
cut through his coat and waistcoat ; and it was only
after the affray was over that I learned that Gustavus
Aird, the bowman of the Lion, and three of the Re-
liance's crew, had also narrowly escaped from being
wounded, their clothes being cut by the blows made
at them with knives. No sooner was the bow cleared
of one set of marauders than another party commen-
ced their operations at the stern. My gun was now
the object of the struggle, which was beginning to as-
sume a more serious complexion, when the whole of
the Esquimaux suddenly fled, and hid themselves be-
hind the drift timber and canoes on the' beach. It
appears that by the exertions of the crew, the Reliance
was again afloat, and Lieutenant Back wisely judging
that this was the proper moment for more active in-
terference, directed his men to level their muskets,
which had produced that sudden panic. The Lion
happily floated soon after, and both were retiring from
the beach, when the Esquimaux having recovered from
their consternation, put their kaiyacks in the water,

424

Thirty Tears

and were preparing to follow us ; but 1 desired Au-
gustus to say that I would shoot the first man who
came within range of our muskets, which prevented
them.

It was now about eight o'clock in the evening, and
we had been engaged in this harassing contest for
several hours, yet the only things of importance which
they had carried off were the mess canteen and kettles,
a tent, a bale containing blankets and shoes, one ot
the men's bags, and the jib-sails. The other articles
they took could well be spared, and they would, in
fact, have been distributed amongst them, had they
remained quiet. The place to which the boats were
dragged is designated by the name of Pillage Point.
I cannot sufficiently praise the fortitude and obedience
of both the boats' crews in abstaining from the use of
their arms. In the first instance I had been influenc-
ed by the desire of preventing unnecessary bloodshed,
and afterwards, when the critical situation of my
party might have well warranted me in employing
more decided means for their defence, I still endeavor-
ed to temporize, being convinced that as long as the
boats lay aground, and we were beset by such num-
bers, armed with long knives, bows, arrows, and
spears, we could not use fire-arms to advantage. The
howling of the women, and the clamor of the men,
proved the high excitement to which they had wrought

In the Arctic Regions,

425

Jsired Au-

man who

prevented

Bning, and
ontest for
nee "which
id kettles,
•es, one ot
er articles
would, in
had they
)oats were
tge Point,
ohedience
the use of
1 influenc-
)Ioodshed,
•n of my
smploying
endeavor-
ig as the
ich num-
3ws, and
?e. The
;he men,
wrought

themselves ; and I am still of opinion that, mingled
as we were with them, the first blood we had shed
would have been instantly revenged by the sacrifice of
all our lives.

But to resume the narrative of the voyage. The
breeze became moderate and fair ; the sails were set,
and we passed along the coast in a W. N. W. direc-
tion, until eleven in the evening, when we halted on
a low island, covered with drift wood, to repair the
sails, and to put the boats in proper order for a sea
voyage. The continuance and increase of the favor-
able wind urged us to make all possible despatch, and
^"g'jj^y at three in the morning of the 9th again em-
barking, we kept in three fathoms waters at the distance
of two miles from the land. After sailing twelve
miles, our progress was completely stopped by the ice
adhering to the shore, and stretching beyond the lim-
its of our view to seaward. We could not effect a
landing until we had gone back some miles, as we had
passed a sheet of ice which was fast to the shore ;
but at length a convenient spot being found, the boats
were hauled up on the beach. We quickly ascended
to the top of the bank to look around, and from thence
had the mortification to perceive that we had just ar-
rived in time to witness the first rupture of the ice.
The only lane of water in the direction of our course
was that from which we had been forced to retreat :

426

Thirty Years

in every other part the sea appeared as firmly frozen
as in winter ; and even close to our encampment the
masses of ice were piled up to the height of thirty
feet. Discouraging as was this prospect, we had the
consolation to know that our store of provision was
sufficiently ample to allow of a few days' detention.

The coast in this part consists of black earth, un-
mixed with stones of any kind, and its general eleva-
tion is from sixty to eighty feet, though in some
places it swells into hills of two hundred and fifty
feet. A level plain, abounding in small lakes, extends
from the top of these banks to the base of a line of
hills which lie in front of the Rocky Mountains. The
plain was clothed with grass and plants, then in flower,
specimens of which were collected. We recognized in
the nearest range of the Rocky Mountains, which I
have named after my much-esteemed companion Dr.
Richardson, the Fitton and Cupola Mountains, which
we had sjen from Garry Island at the distance of
sixty miles. Few patches of snow were visible on any
part of the range.

Having obtained observations for longitude and va-
riation, we retired to bed about eight a. m., but had
only just fallen asleep when we were roused by the
men on guard calling out that a party of Esquimaux
were close to the tents ; and, on going out, we found
the whole of our party under arms. Three Esqui-

In the Arctic Regions.

427

maux had come upon us unawares, and in terror at
seeing so many strangers, they were on the point of
discharging their arrows, when Augustus's voice ar-
rested them, and by explaining the purpose of our
arrival, soon calmed their fears. Lieutenant Back
and I having made each of them a present, and re-
ceived in return some arrows, a very amicable confer-
ence followed, which was managed by Augustus with
equal tact and judgment. It was gratifying to ob-
serve our visitors jumping for joy as he pointed out
the advantages to be derived from an intercourse with
the white people, to whom they were now introduced
for the first time. We found that they belonged to a
party whose tents were pitched about two miles from
us ; and as they were very desirous that their friends
might also enjoy the gratification of seeing us, they
begged that Augustus would return with them to con-
vey the invitation ; which request was granted at his
desire.

Before their departure, marks being set up on the
beach one hundred and fifty yards in front of the tent,
and twice that distance from the boats, they were in-
formed that this was the nearest approach which any
of their party would be permitted to make ; and that
at this boundary only would gifts be made, and bar-
ter carried on. Augustus was likewise desired to ex-
plain to them the destructije power of our guns, and

428

Thirty Years

to assure them that every person would be shot who
should pass the prescribed limit. This plan was
adopted in all succeeding interviews with the Esqui-
maux. After five hours' absence Augustus returned,
accompanied by twenty men and two elderly women,
who halted at the boundary. They had come without
bows or arrows, by the desire of Augustus, and, fol-
lowing his Instruction, each gave Lieutenant Back
and myself a hearty shake of the hand. We made
presents to every one of beads, fish-hooks, awls, and
trinkets ; and that they might have entire confidence
in the whole party, our men were furnished with beads,
to present to them. The men were directed to advance
singly, and in such a manner as to prevent the Es-
quimaux from counting our number, unless they paid
the greatest attention, which they were not likely to
do while their minds were occupied by a succession of
novelties.

Our visitors were F^on quite at ease, and we were
preparing to question them respecting the coast, and
the time of removal of the ice, when Augustus begged
that he might put on his gayest dress, and his medals,
before the conference began. This was the work of a
few seconds ; but when he returned, surprise and de-
light at his altered appearance, and numerous orna-
ments so engaged their minds, that their attention
could not be drawn to any other subject for the next

In the Arctic Regions.

429

half hour. " Ah," said an old man, taking up his
medals, " these must have been made by such people
as you have been describing, for none that we have
seen could do any thing like it ;" then taking hold of
his coat, he asked, " what kind of animal do these
skins which you and the chiefs wear belong to ?
We have none such in our country." The anchor
buttons also excited their admiration. At length we
managed to gain their attention, and were informed
that, as soon as the wind should blow strong from the
land, the ice might be expected to remove from the
shore, so as to open a passage for boats, and that it
would remain in the offing until the reappearance of
the stars. *' Further to the westward," they con-
tinued, " the ice often adheres to the land throughout I
the summer ; and when it does break away, it is car-
ried but a short distance to seaward, and is brought back
whenever a strong wind blows on the coast. If there
be any channels in those parts, they are unsafe for
boats, as the ice is continually tossing about. We
wonder, therefore," they said, " that you are not pro-
vided with sledges and dogs, as our men are, to travel
along the land, when these interruptions occur."
They concluded by warning us not to stay to the
westward after the stars could be seen, because the
winds would then blow strong from the sea, and pack
the ice on the shore. On further inquiry we learned

430

Thirty Tears

that this party is usually employed, daring the sum-
mer, in catching whales and seals, in the vicinity of
the Mackenzie, and that they seldom travel to the
westward beyond a few days' journey. We were,
therefore, not much distressed by intelligence which
we supposed might have originated in exaggerated
accounts received from others. In the evening Au-
gustus returned with them to their tents, and two of
the men undertook to fetch a specimen of the rock
from Mount Ficton, which was distant about twenty
miles.

The party assembled at divine service in the even-
ing. The wind blew in violent squalls during the
night, which brought such a heavy swell upon the ice,
that the larger masses near the encampment were
broken before the morning of the 10th, but there was
no change in the main body.

^loth^' ^^® Esquimaux revisited ua in the morning,
with their women and children ; the party consisted
of forty-eight persons. They seated themselves as be-
fore, in a semicircle, the men being in front, and the
women behind. Presents were made to those who
had not before received any ; and we afterwards pur-
chased several pairs of seal-skin boots, a few pieces of
dressei seal-skin, and some deer-skin cut and twisted,
to be used as cords. Beads, pins, needles and orna-
mental articles, were most in request by the women,

mutt

In the Arctic Regions.

431

to whom the goods principally belonged, but the men
were eager to get any thing that was made of iron.
They were supplied with hatchets, files, ice chisels,
fire-steels, Indian awls, and fish-hooks. They were
very anxious to procure knives, but. as each was in pos-
session of one, I reserved the few which we had for
another occasion. The quarter from whence these
knives were obtained, will appear in a subsequent part
of the narrative. It was amusing to see the purposes
to which they applied the different articles given to
them ; some of the men danced about with a large
cod-fish hook dangling from the nose, others stuck an
awl through the same part, and the women immedi-
ately decorated their dresses with the ear-rings, thim-
bles, or whatever trinkets they received. There was
in the party a great proportion of elderly persons, who
appeared in excellent health, and were very active.
The men were stout and robust, and taller than Au-
gustus, or than those seen on the east coast by Cap-
tain Parry. Their cheek-bones were less projecting
than the representations given of the Esquimaux on
the eastern coast, but they had the small eye, and
broad nose, which ever distinguish that people. Ex-
cept the yonng persons, the whole party were afflicted
with sore eyes, arising from exposure to the glare of
ice and snow, and two of the old men were nearly
blind. They wore the hair on the upper lip and chin ;

432

Thirty Years

the latter, as well as that on their head, being per-
mitted to grow long, though in some cases a circular
spot on the crown of the head was cut bare, like the
tonsure of the Boman catholic clergy. Every man
had pieces of bone or shells thrust through the sep-
tum of his nose ; and holes were pierced on each side
of the under lip, in which were placed circular pieces
of ivory, with a large blue bead in the centre, similar
to those represented in the drawings of the natives on
the N.W. coast of America, in Kotzebue's Voyage.
These ornaments were so much valued, that they de-
clined selling them ; and when not rich enough to pro-
cure beads or ivory, stones and pieces of bone were
substituted. These perforations are made at the age
of puberty ; and one of the party, who appeared to be
about fourteen years old, was pointed out, with de-
light, by his parents, as having to undergo the opera-
tion in the following year. He was a good-looking
boy, and we could not fancy his countenance would
be much improved by the insertion of the bones or
stones, which have the effect of depressing the under
lip, and keeping the mou«<h open.

Their dress consisted of a jacket of rein-deer skin,
with a skirt behind and before, and a small hood ;
breeches of the same material, and boots of seal-skin.
Their weapons for the chase were bows and arrows,
Tery neatly made ; the latter being headed with bone

In the Arctic Begiona,

433

or iron ; and for fishino^, spears tipped with bone.
They also catch fish with nets and lines. All were
armed with knives, which they either keep in their
hand, or thrust up the sleeve of their shirt. They
had received from the Loucheux Indians some account
of the destructive eflPects of guns. The dress of the
women differed from that of the men only in their
wearing wide trowsers, and in the size of their hoods,
which do not fit close to the head, but are made large,
for the purpose of receiving their children. These
are ornamented with stripes of different colored skins,
and round the top is fastened a band of wolfs hair,
made to stand erect. Their own blac^ hair is very
tastefully turned up from behind to the top of the
head, and tied by strings of white and blue beads, or
cords of white deerskin. It is divided in front, so as
to form on each side a thick tail, to which are append-
ed strings of beads that reach to the waist. The
women were from four feet and a half to four and
three-quarters high, and generally fat. Some of the
younger ftmales, and the children, were pretty. The
lady whose portrait adorns this work, was mightily
pleased at being selected by Lieutenant Back for his
sketch, and testified her joy by smiles and many jumps.
The men, when sitting for their portraits, were more
sedate, though not less pleased, than the females ;
some of them remarked that they were not handsome

19

434

TJiirty Years

enough to be taken to our country, It will be seen
from the engraving, that one of the men had a differ-
ent cast of countenance from the rest ; we supposed
him to be descended from the Indians.

It would appear that the walrus does not visit this
part of the coast, as none of these people recognized a
sketch of one, which Lieutenant Back drew ; but
they at once knew the seal and reindeer. We learned
that -the polar bear is seldom seen, and only in the
autumn ; and likewise that there are very few of the
brown bears, which we frequently saw on the coast
eastward of the Copper-Mine River. We had already
seen a few white whales, and we understood that they
would resort to this part of the coast in greater num-
bers with the following moon.

Who- habits of these people were similar, in every
respect,, to those of the tribes described by Captain
Parry, and their dialect differed so little from that
used by Augustus, that he had no difficulty in under-
standing them. He was, therefore, able to give them
full particulars relative to the attack mad© by the
other party, and they expressed themselves much hurt
at their treacherous conduct. " Those are bad men,"
they said, " and never fail either to quarrel with us,
or steal from us, when we meet. They come, every
spring, from the eastern side of the Mackenzie, to fish
at the place where you saw them, and return as soon

In the Arctic Regions.

435

7*

bOOU

as the ice opens; They are distinguished from us,
who live to the westward of the river, by the men
being tattoed across the face. Among our tribes the
women only are tattoed ;" having five or six blue lines
drawn perpendicularly from the under lip to the chin.
The speaker added, " If you are obliged to return by
this way, before these people remove, we, with a re-
inforcement of young men, will be in the vicinity, and
will willingly accompany you to assist in repelling any
attack." Augustus returned with the Esquimaux to
their tents, as there was not the least prospect pf our
getting forward, though the ice was somewhat broken.
Tuesday, ^ stroug brccze from the westward during

the night, contributed, with the swell, to the further
reduction of the ice, in front of the encampment ; and
on the morning of the 11th, the wind changed to the
eastward, and removed the pieces a little way offshore,
though they were tossing too violently for the boats
to proceed. The swell having subsided in the after-
noon, we embarked ; but at the end of a mile and a
half were forced to land again, from the ice being fixed
to the shore ; and as the wind had now become strong,
and was driving the loose pieces on the land the boats
were unloaded and landed on the beach. From the
summit of an adjoining hill we perceived an unbroken
field of ice to the west, and consequently, a barrier to
our progress.

e

■».

436

Thirty Tears

* We encamped on the spot which our Esquiniaiix
friends had left in the morning, to remove in their
oomiaks and kaiyacks towards the Mackenzie, where
they could set their fishing nets, and catch whales and
seals. One of them showed his honesty, by returning
some arrows, and a piece of a pemmican bag, that we
had left at our last resting-place. The men also
joined us here with specimens of rock from Mount
Fitton.

The Esquimaux winter residences at this spot were
constructed of drift timber, with the roots of the
trees upwards, and contained from one to three small
apartments, beside a cellar for their stores. There
were generally two entrances, north and south, so low
as to make it necessary to crawl through them. The
only other aperture was a hole at the top for the
smoke, which, as well as the doorways, could be filled
up with a block of snow at pleasure. When covered
with snow, and with lamps or fire burning within,
these habitations must be extremely warm, though to
our ideas rather comfortless. Lofty stages were erect-
ed near them for the purpose of receiving their canoes
and bulky articles. The annexed engraving from
Lieutenant Back's sketch of these habitations, ren-
ders further description unnecessary.. A north-east
gale came on in the evening, and rolled such a heavy
Burf on the beach, that twice, during the night, we

In the Arctic Hegtons.

437

ix.
lir

re
Id

r

r

BO

It

were obliged to drag the boats and cargoes higher up.
£^^ About three the next morniog a heavy rain
commenced, and continued, without intermission,
through the day ; at which we were delighted, how-
ever comfortless it made our situation, because we
saw the ice gradually loosening from the land under
its effects. We found the keeping a tide-pole fixed
in the loose gravel beach impracticable here, as well
as at the last resting-place, on account of the swell.
It appeared to be high water this morning at half
past one a. m., and that the rise of tide was about
two feet. I need hardly observe that we had the sun
constantly above the horizon, were it not for the pur-
pose of mentioning the amusing mistakes which the
men made as to the hour. In fact, when not employ-
ed, a question as to the time of day never failed to
puzzle them, except about midnight, when the sun
was near the northern horizon.

Lieutenant Back missing the protractor which he
used for laying down his bearings on the map, Augus-
tus set off in the rain early this forenoon to recover
it from an Esquimaux woman, whom he had seen pick
it up. The rain ceased in the afternoon, the wind
gradually abated, and by eight in the evening it was
calm. A south wind followed, which opened a pas-
sage for the boat, but Augustus was not in sight. At
midnight we became greatly alarmed for his safety,

438

Thirty Years

having now found that he had taken his gun, which
we supposed the natives might have endeavored to
wrest from him, and we were on the point of despatch-
ing a party in search of him, when he arrived at four
^laSi!" io *^6 mominw of the 13th much fatigued, ac-
companied by three of .the natives. His journey had
been lengthened by the Esquimaux having gone far-
ther to the eastward than he had expected, but he had
recovered the protractor, which had been kept in their

ignorance of its utility to us.. His companions
brought five white fish, and some specimens of crystal
with other stones, from the mountains, which we pur-
chased, and further rewarded them for their kindness
in not allowing Augustus to return alone.

The boats were immediately launched, and having
pulled a short distance from the land, we set the sails,
our course being directed to the outer point in view,
to avoid the sinuosities of the coast. We passed a
wide, though not deep bay, whose points were named
after my friends Captains Sabine and P. P. King ;
and we were drawing near the next projection, when a
compact body of ice was discovered, which was joined
to the land ahead. At the same time a dense fo<;
came on, that confined our view to a few yards ; it
was accompanied by a gale from the land, and heavy
rain. We had still hopes of getting round the point,
and approached the shore in that expectation, but

In the Arctic Regions.

489

found the ice so closely packed that we could neither
advknce nor effect a landing. We, therefore, pulled
to seaward, and turned the boat's head to the eas In-
ward, to trace the outer border of the ice. In this
situation we were exposed to great danger from the
sudden change of wind to S E., which raised a heavy
swell, and brought down upon us masses of ice of a
size that, tossed as they were by the waves, would
have injured a ship. We could only catch occasional
glimpses of the land through the fog, and were kept
in the most anxious suspense, pulling in and out be-
tween the floating masses of ice, for five hours, before
we couJd get near the shore. We landed a little to
the west of Point Sabine, and only found sufli-
cient space for the boats and tents between t^e
bank and the water. The rain ceased for a sHdk
time in the evening, and, during this interval^'W^^g^-
ceived, from the top of the bank, that the whole spU'de
between us and the distant point, as wena;s the chan-
nel by which we had advanced to the westward, wefe
now completely blocked ; so that we had good reason
to congratulate ourselves on havin«; reached the shore
in safety.

'» . . • »

'-'tix-i

440

Thirty Tears

CHAPTER XVI

Juij wit. Althouoh it rained heavily during the night,
and the wind blew strong o(F the land for some hours,
there was ho other change in the state of the ice on
the morning of the 14th, than that the smaller pieces
were driven a short way from the beach. The day
was foggy and rainy, but the evening fine. The bank
under whioh we were encamped is of the same earthy
kind as that described on the Pth, but rather higher
and steeper. It contains much wood-coal, similar to
that found in the Mackenzie River, and at Garry's Is-
land. The beach and the beds of the rivulets that
flow through the ravines, consist of coarse gravel.
Specimens of its stones, of the coal, and of the plants
in flower, were added to the collection. We saw two
marmots, and two reindeer, which were too wary to
allow of our getting within shot of them. Between
noon and ten p.m., the loose ice was driving in front of
the encampment from the N.W. to S.E., and at tho

In the Afctio Itcgtona,

441

latter hour it stojjpcd. We could not detect any dif-
ference in the height of the water, and there was a
culm the whole time. A light breeze from S.E. after
midnight, brought the masses close to the beach. On
the morning of the 15th, having perceived that the
ice was loosened from the land near the outer point, to
which I have given the name of. Kay, after some
much-esteemed relatives, we embarked, and in the
course of a few hours succeeded in reaching it, by
passing between the grounded masses of ice. On
landing at Point Kay, we observed that our progress
must again be stopped by a compact body of ice that
was fast to the shore of a deep bay, and extended to
our utmost view seaward ; and that we could not ad-
vance farther than the mouth of a river, which dis-
charged its waters just round the point. The boats
were, therefore, pulled to its entrance, and we en-
camped. Former checks had taught us to be patient,
and we, therefore, commenced such employments as
would best serve to beguile the time, consoling our-
Belves with the hope that a strong breeze would soon
spring up from the land and open a passage. Astro-
nomical observations were obtained, the map carried
on, and Lieutenant Back sketched the beautiful scen-
ery afforded by a view of the Rocky Mountains, while
I was employed in collecting specimens of the plants
in flower. The men amused themselves in various

442

Tliirty Years

i

"wnys, aud Augustus went to visit an Esquimaux
family that were on an island contiguous to our en-
campment. ^

We now discovered that the Rocky Mountains do
not form a continuous chain, but that they run in de-
tached ranges at unequal distances from the coast.
The Bichardson chain commencing opposite the mouth
of the Mackenzie, terminates within view of our pres-
ent situation. Another range, which I have named
in honor of Professor Buckland, begins on the west-
ern side of Phillips Bay, and extending to the bound-
ary of our view, is terminated by the Conybeare
Mountain.

It gave me great pleasure to affix the name of my
friend Mr. Babbage to the river we had discovered,
and that of Mr. Phillips, Professor of Painting at the
Royal Academy, to the bay into which its waters are
emptied. We learned from the Esquimaux that this
river, which they call Codk-Keaktok, or Rocky River,
descends from a very distant part of the interior,
though they are unacquainted with its course beyond
the mountains. It appeared to us to flow between
the Cupola and Barn mountains of the Richardson
chain. There are many banks of gravel near its
mouth, but above these obstructions the channel ap-
peared deep, and to be about two miles broad. There
were no rocks in sitin, or large stonep, near the en-

In the Arctic litgions.

443

campment ; the rolled -pebbles on tbe beach v/frte
sandstone of red and light-brown colors; greenstone,
and slaty limestone. We gathered a fih^ specimen
* of tertiary pitch-coal.

Augustus returned in the evening with a young
Esquimaux and his wife, the only residents at the
house he had visited. They had now quite recovered
the panic into which they had been thrown on our
first appearance, which was heightened by their being
unable to escape from us owing to the want bf a canoe.
We made them happy by purchasing the fish they
brought, and giving them a few presents ; they con-
tinued to skip and laugh as long as they staid. The
man informed us that judging from the rapid decay
of the ice in the few pre<ifeding days, we might soon
expect it to break from the land, so as to allow of
our reaching Herschel Island, which was in view ; but
he represented the coast to the westward of the island
as being low, and so generally beset with ice, that he
was of opinion we should have great difficulty in get-
ting along. This couple had been left here to collect
fish for the use of their companions, who were to re-
join them for the purpose of killing whales, as soon
as the ice should break up ; and they told us the
black whales would soon come after its rupture took
place. It would be interesting to ascertain where
the whales retire in the winter, as they, reqtiire to in-

444

Thirty Years

hale the air frequently. Those of the white kind

make their appearance when there are hut small spaces
of open water ; and we afterwards saw two hlack

whales in a similar situation. One might also infer
from these circumstances that they do not remove very
far. Is it probahle that they go, at the close of the
autumn, to a warmer climate ? or can the sea be less
closely covered with ice in the high northern latitudes ?
The situation of our encampment was observed to be,
latitude 69^* 19' N. ; longitude 138^ lOJ' W. ; varia-
tion 46^ 16' E. ; and a rise and fall of nine inches in
the water. The wind blew from the west during the
night, and drove much ice near the boats ; but as the
masses tock ground a little way from the shore, we
were spared the trouble of removing the boats higher
Up the beach.

^ Mth.^' ^^® ^^^^ favored in the forenoon of the 16th,
by a strong breeze from the land, which, in the course
of a few hours, drove away many of these pieces to-
wards Point Kay, and opened a passage for boats.
We immediately embarked to sail over to the western
Bide of Phillips Bay, concluding, from the motion of
the ice, that it must now be detached from that shore.
On reaching it, we had the pleasure of finding an open
channel close to the beach, although the entrance was
barred by a stream of ice lying aground on a reef
The boats being forced by poles over this obstruction^

w<

be
p«
t(
tl

In the Arctic Begiona.

445

we stood under sail along the coast to about five miles
beyond Point Stokes ; but there we were again com-
pelled by the closeness of the ice to stop, and from the
top of a sand-hill we could not discover any water in
the direction of our (Sourse. The tents were therefore
pitched, and the boats unloaded, and hauled on the
beach. Heavy rain came on in the evening, by which
we indulged the hope that the ice might be loosened.
We were encamped on a low bank of gravel which
runs along the base of a chain of sand-hills about one
hundr d and fifty feet high, and forms the coast line.
The buak was covered with drift timber, and is the
site of a deserted Esquimaux village. The snow still
remaining in the ravines was tinged with light red
spots. The night was calm, and the ice remained in
the same fixed state until six in the morning of the
17th, when, perceiving the pieces in the offing to be
in motion we launched the boats, and by breaking our
way at first with hatchets, and then forcing with the
poles through other streams of ice, we contrived to
reach some lanes of water, along which we navigated
for four hours. A strong breeze springing up from
seaward, caused the ice to close so fast upon the boat,
that we were obliged to put again to the shore, and
land on a low bank, similar to that on which we had
rested the night before. It was intersected, however,
by many pools and channels of water, which cut ol!

446

Thirty Years

our commuDication with the land. As we could not
obtain, from our present station, any satisfactory view
of the state of the ice to the westward, I despatched
Duncan and Augustus to take a survey of it from
Point Catton, while Lieutenant Back and I made
some astronomical observations. They returned after
an absence of two hours, and reported that there was
water near Herschel Island, and a channel in the
offing that appeared to lead to it. We, therefore,
embarked ; and by pushing the boats between thd
masses that lay aground, for some distance, we suc^
ceeded in reaching open water at the entrance of the
strait which lies between the island and the main, and
through which the loose pieces of ice were driving fast
to the westward. Having now the benefit of a strong
favorable breeze, we were enabled to keep clear of
them, and made good progress. Arriving opposite
the S. E. end of Herschel Island, we perceived a large
herd of reindeer just taking the water, and on ap-
proaching the shore to get within shot, discovered
three Esquimaux in pursuit. These men stood gazing
at the boats for some minutes, and after a short con-
sultation, we observed them to change the heads of
their arrows, and prepare 'their bows. They then
walked along the south shore, parallel to our course,
for the purpose, as we soon found, of rejoining their
wives. We reached the place at which the ladies

In the Arctic Regions

447

were before them, and though invited to land, we were
not able, on account of the surf. Augustus was
desirfed to assure them of our friendship, and of our
intention to stop at the first sheltered spot, to which
they and their husbands might come to receive a pre-
sent. More than this our little friend could not be
prevailed upon to communicate, because they were
" old wives ;" and it was evident that he considered
any further conversation with women to be beneath
his dignity. On passing round the point we discovered
that the ice was closely packed to leeward, and such
a heavy swell setting upon it, that it was unsafe to
proceed. We, therefore, encamped, and Augustus
set off immediately to introduce himself to the Esqui-
maux. The tents were scarcely pitched, and the
sentinels placed, before he returned, accompanied by
twelve men and women, each bringing a piece of dried
meat, or fish, to present to us. We learned from
them that the boats, when af''« distance, had been
taken for pieces of ice ; but *when we drew near
enough for them to distinguish the crews, and they
perceived them clothed differently from any men they
had seen, they became alarmed, and made ready their
arrows, as we had observed. On receiving some pre-
sents, they raised a loud halloo, which brought five or
six others from an adjoining island, and in the evening
there was a further addition to the party of some

448

Thirty Yeura

young men, who had been hunting, and who after-
wards sent their wives to bring us a part of the spoils
of their chase. They remained near the tents the
greater part of the night, and testified their delight by
dancing and singing. An old woman, whose hair was
silvered by age, made a prominent figure in these
exhibitions.

The information we obtained from them confirmed
that which we had received from the last party, name-
ly, that they procure the iron, knives, and beads,
^l^l^^^ through two channels, but principally from a
party of Esquimaux who reside a great distance to
the westward, and to meet whom they send their
young men every spring with furs, seal-skins, and oil,
to exchange for those articles ; and also from the In-
dians who come every year from the interior to trade
with them by a river that was directly opposite our
encampment ; which I have, therefore, named the
Mountain Indian River. These Indians leave their
families and canoes at two days' march from the mouth
of the river, and the men come alone, bringing no
more goods than they intend to barter. They were
represented to be tall stout men, clothed in deer-skins,
and speaking a language very dissimilar to their own.
They also said that the Esquimaux to the westward,
speak a dialect so different from theirs, that at the
first opening of the communication, whi ;h was so re-

In the Arctic Regions,

449

cent as to be within the memory of two of our present
companions, they had great difficulty in understanding
them. Several quarrels took place at their first meet-
ings, in consequence of the western party attempting
to steal ; but latterly there has been a good under-
standing between them, and the exchanges have been
fairly made.

Our visitors did not know from what people either
the Indians or the Esquimaux obtained the goods,
but they supposed from some " Kabloonacht," (white
people,) who reside far to the west. As the articles
we saw were not of British manufacture, and were
very unlike those sold by the Hudson's Bay Company
to the Indians, it cannot be doubted that they are
furnished by the Russian Fur Traders, who receive in
return for them all the furs collected on this northern
coast. Part of the Russian iron-work is conveyed to
the Esquimaux dwelling on the coast east of the
Mackenzie. The western Esquimaux use tobacco,
and some of our visitors had smoked it, but thought
the flavor very disagreeable. Until I was aware of
their being acquainted with the use of it, I prohibited
my men from smoking in their presence, and after-
wards from offering their pipes to the Esquimaux at
any time. At the conclusion of this conference, our
visitors assured us, that having now become acquaint-
ed with white people, and being conscious that the

i§-

4S0

Thirty Years

trade with them would be beneficial, they would gladly
encourage a further intercourse, and do all in their
power to prevent future visitors from having such a
reception as we had on our arrival in these seas. We
learned that this island, which has been distinguished
by the pame of Herschel, is much frequented by the
natives at this season of the year, as it abounds with
deer, and its surrounding waters afford plenty of fish.
It is composed of black earth, rises, in its highest
point, to about one hundred feet, and at the time of
our visit was covered with verdure. The straight be-
tween it and the main ehore, is the only place that
we had seen, since quitting the Mackenzie, in which a
ship could find shelter ; but even this channel is much
interrupted by shoals.

^ilth!*^ On the morning of the 18th the fog was so
thick that we could not see beyond the beach. It
dispersed about noon, and we discovered that there
was a channel of open water near the main sliore,
though in the centre of the strait the ice was heavy,
and driving rapidly to the north-west. We embarked
at once, in the expectation of being able to penetrate
between the drift ice and the land, but the attempt
was frustrated by the shallowness of the water ; and
the fog again spreading as thick as before, we landed
on a sand-bank. We were soon visited by another
party of the Esquimaux, who brought deer's meat for

JIl

In the Arctic Begiona.

4Sl

sale ; and although the whole quantity did not
amount to a deer, we had to purchase it in small
pieces. This practice of dividing the meat among
the party, we found to prevail throughout the voy-
age ; and they avowed as their reason for it, the de-
sire that every one might obtain a share of the good
things we distributed. One of the men drew on the
sand a sketch of the coast to the westward, as far as
he was acquainted with it ; from which it appeared
that there was a line of reefs in front of the coast the
whole way ; the water being deep on the outside of
them, but on the inside too shallow even for their
oomiacks to float. We subsequently found that his
knowledge of the coast did not extend beyond a few
days' march.

The atmosphere becoming more clear about two
p. M., we again embarked, and endeavored to get to
seaward. The boats, however, soon grounded ; and
finding all our attempts to push through any of the
channels betw,een the reefs ineffectual, we pulled back
close to Herschel Island. Following, then, the course
of the drift ice, we passed near to its south-west
point, which was found lo be the only deep passage
through the strait. We afterwards entered into a
fine sheet of open water, the main body of the' ice
being about half a mile to seaward, and only a few
bergs lying aground in the direction of our course.

452

Thirty Tears

The outer parts of the island appeared closely beset
with ice. At the end of five miles we discerned
another large party of Esquimaux, encamped on a
reef ; they waved their jackets as signals for us to
land, which we declined doing, as we perceived the
water to be shallow between us and them. They ran
along the beech as far as the end of the reef, tempting
us by holding up meat. Only two of the party were
provided with canoes, and they followed us to a bluff
point of the main shore, on which we landed. These
proved to be persons whom we had seen at Herschel
Island, and who had visited the Esquimaux in this
quarter on purpose to make them acquainted with our
arrival. We were happy to learn from them that we
should not see any more of their countrymen for some
time, because, while surrounded by them, the necessity
of closely watching their motions, prevented us from
paying due attention to other objects. Resuming our
voyage, we pulled along the outer border of a gravel
reef, about two hundred yards broad, that runs paral-
lel to, and about half a mile from, the coast, having a
line of drift ice on the outside of us. The wind being
contrary, and the evening cold, temperature 40^, we
encamped on the reef at eight p. m., where we found
plenty of drift timber ; the water was brackish. The
distance traveled this day was eight miles and a half.
The main shore opposite the encampment was low to

a grea|
ascend!
mount]

Wed.
10th.

^

In the Arctic Begtons,

453

a great distance from the coast ; it then appeared to
ascend gradually to the base of the Buckland chain of
mountains.

^th! The following morning being calm, and vory
fine^ the boats were launched at three a. m., and wb
set off in high spirits ; but after pulling three miles,
we perceived the channel of open water becoming
narrow, and the pieces of ice heavier than any we had
before seen, some of them being aground in three
fathoms water. At six a. m., after having gone five
miles and a half, we were stopped by the ice which
adhered to the reef, and was unbroken lo seaward.
Imagining we saw water at some distance beyond this
barrier, we were induced to drag the boats across the
reef, and launch them into the channel on the inside,
in the hope of reaching it. This proved to be a bay,
at the head of which we arrived in a short time. It
was then discovered that a fog hanging over the ice
had been mistaken for water. The boats were, there-
fore, reconveyed across the reef, the tents pitched,
and we had to draw largely on our nearly exhausted
stock of patience, as we contemplated the dreary view
of this compact icy field. A herd of rein-deer appear-
ed very opportunely to afford some employment, and
most of the men were despatched on the chase, but
only one was successful. The following observations
were obtained -.—Latitude 69** 36' N. ; longitude 139**

I II r II ia> I

mf

454

Thirty Years

^ «

•«fe-i*

42* W. Being now abreast of Mount Conybeare,
Lieutenant Back and I were on the point of setting
out to visit its summit, when we were stopped by a
very dense fog that accompanied a fresh breeze from
the N. W., followed by heavy rain. The weather
continued bad, until ten the following morning ; the
ice near the beach was broken into smaller pieces, but
as yet too closely packed for our proceeding. The
water being brackish in front of the reef, we despatch-
ed two men to bring some from the pools at a distance
inland, which was found to have the same taste ;
from this circumstance, as well as from the piles of
drift wood, thrown up far from the coast, one may in-
fer that the sea occasionally washes over this low
shore. The ice broken off from large masses, and per-
mitted to drain before it was melted, did not furnish
us with better water. A couple of pin-tailed dacka
were shot, the only pair seen ; the black kind were
more numerous, but were not fired at, as they are
fishing ducks, and, therefore, not good to eat. We
also saw a few geese and swans.

^2i8t7 ^^^ atmosphere was calm, and perfectly clear,
^on the morning of the 2 1st ; and as there was not any
change in the position of the ice, I visited Mount
Conybeare, accompanied by Duncan and Stewart.
Though its distance was not more than twelve miles
from the coast, the journey proved to bo very fatigu-

In the Arctic Beg ions.

455

ing, owinj; to the swampiness of the ground between
the mountain and the sea. We had also the discom-
fort of being tormented the whole way by myriads of
musquitoes. The plain was intersected by a winding
river, about fort3^yard8 broad, which we forded, and
on its western side found a thicket of willows, none
of which were above seven inches in circumference,
and only five or six feet high. At the foot of the
mountain were three parallel platforms or terraces,
whose heights we estimated at fifty, eighty, and one
hundred and thirty feet ; composed of transition slate,
the stone of the lowest being of the closest texture.
We found the task of climbing above the upper ter-
races difficult, in consequence of the looseness of the
stones, which did not afford a firm footing, but after
an hour's labor, we succeeded in reaching the top.
The mountain is also composed of slate, but so much
weathered near the summit, as to appear a mere col-
lection of stones. Its height above the sea we esti-
mated at eight hundred feet. Two or three hardy
plants were in flower, at the highest elevation, which
we gathered, though they were of the same kind that
had been collected in the lower lands ; and dur-
ing the whole march we did not meet with any plant
different from the specimens we had already obtained.
On arriving at the top of the mountain, we were re-
freshed by a strong south wind, which we fondly

'

'm''i»'r^<''>m^-f^fni^n$f

- I^^

wgrn

456

Thirty Years

hoped might reach to the coast, and be of service by
driving the ice from the land. This hope, however,
lasted only a few minutes ; for, on casting our eyes
to seaward, there appeared no open water into which
it could be moved, except near Herschel Island. The
view into the interior possessed the charm of novelty,
and attracted particular regard. We commanded a
prospect over three ranges of mountains, lying paral-
lel to the Buckland chain, but of less altitude. The
view was bounded by a fourth range of high-peaked
m,9untains, for the most part covered with snow.
This distant range was afterwards distinguished by
the name of the British Chain ; and the mountains at
its extremities were named in honor of the then Chan-
cellor of the Exchequer, and President of the Board
of Trade — the Bight Honorable Mr. Bobinson, now
Lord Goderich, and Mr. Huskisson. When seen from
the coast, the mountains of the Buckland chain ap-
peared to form a continuous line, extending from N.
W. by N., to S. E. by S. ; but from our present situa-
tion we discovered that they were separated from each
other by a deep valley, and a rivulet, and that their
longest direction was N.N.E. and S.S.W. The same
order prevailed in the three ranges behind the Buck-
land chain ; and the highest of their mountains, like
Mount Conybeare, were round and naked at the top ;
the vaUies between them were grassy. We erected a

.ti

In the Arctic Regions.

457

' pile of stones of sufficient height to be seen from the
sea, and deposited underneath it a note, containing
the latitude, longitude, and some particulars relative
to the Expedition.

^'S?^' The 22nd was a calm, sultry day, the tem-
perature varying between 58" and 63°, and we were
tormented by musquitoes. The ice remained very

' close to the beach. Impatient of our long detention,
we gladly availed ourselves, at three in the morning
of the 23rd, of a small opening in the ice, to launch
the boats, and push them forward as far as we coi|ld
get them. We thus succeeded in reaching a lane of
water, through which we made tolerable progress,
though after two hours and a half of exertion, we
were gradually hemmed in, and forced again to en-
camp at the mouth of a small stream westward of Sir
Pulteney Malcolm River. We had, however, the
satisfaction of finding, by the observations, that we
had gained ten miles. The temperature of the water
at the surface a quarter of a mile from the shore was
40°, that of the air being 49°. The water was two
fathoms deep, ten yards from the beach.

The coast here was about fifteen feet high ; and
from the top of the bank a level plain extended to the
base of the mountains, which, though very swampy,
was covered with verdure. At this place we first
found boulder stones, which were deeply seated in the

I

iji ;• ■! 4IIJ1II niWJ I

wfmtKmmmmm^

458

Thirty Tears

^

gravel of the beach. They consisted of greenstone,
sandstone, and limestone ; the first mentioned being
the largest, and the last the most numerous. Having
seen several fish leaping in the river, a net was set
across its mouth, though without success, owing to
the meshes being too large. Two men were des-
patched to examine the state of the ice ; and on their
return from a walk of several miles, they reported
that, with the exception of a small spot close to the
beach, it was quite compact. They had observed,
about two miles from the encampment, stumps of
drift wood fixed in the ground at certain distances,
extending from the coast across the plain towards the
Rocky Mouatains, in the direction of two piles of
stones, which were erected on the top of the latter.
We were at a loss to conjecture what motive the Es-
quimaux could have had for taking so much trouble,
unless these posts were intended to serve as decoys for
the reindeer. The party assembled at divine service
in the evening, as had been our practice every Sunday.
^^aTtb*^ On the morning of the 24th we were able to
make a further advance of two miles and three-quar-
ters, by forcing the boats between the masses of ice,
as far as the del^ouche of another rivulet. Under any
other circumstance than that of being beset by ice,
the beautifully calm and clear weather we then had
would have been deligUtful ; but as our hope of being

In the Arctic Regions,

459

tone.

ice,
any
ice.

released rested solely on a strong wind, we never
ceased to long for its occurrence. A breeze would
have been, at any rate, beneficial in driving away the
musquitoes, which were so numerous as to prevent
any enjoyment of the open air, and to keep us confined
to a tent filled with smoke, the only remedy against
their annoyance,
Tuoflday ^^Q ^g^Q g|.j]| detained the two following

days, and the only things we saw were a grey wolf,
some seals, and some ducks. More tedious hours than
those passed by us in the present situation, cannot
well be imagined. After the astronomical observa-
tions had been obtained and worked, the survey
brought up, a sketch made of the encampment, and
specimens of the plants and stones in the vicinity col-
lected, thero was, literally, nothing to do. The anx-
iety which was inseparable from such an enterprise as
ours, at such an advanced period of the season, left
but little disposition to read, even if there had been a
greater choice of books in our traveling library, and
still less composure to invent amusement. Even had
the musquitoes been less tormenting, the swampiness
of the ground, in which we sank ancle deep at every
step, deprived us of the pleasure of walking. A visit
to the Rocky Mountains was often talked of, but they
were now at a distance of two days' journey, and we
dared not to be absent from the boats so long, lest

mm

■t<

460

Thirty Tears

the ice, in its fickle movements, should open for a
short time. Notwithstanding the closeness of the ice,
^e perceived a regular rise and fall of the water,
though it amounted only to seven inches, except on
the night of the 24th, when the rise was two feet ;
but the direction of the flood was not yet ascertained.
We found a greater proportion of birch-wood, mixed
with the drift timber to the westward of the Babbage,
than wc had done before ; between the Mackenzie and
that river it had been so scarce, that we had to draw
upon our store of bark to light the fires. Some lunar
observations were obtained in the afternoon of the 25 th.
and their results assured us that the chronometers
were going steadily. At midnight we were visited by
a strong S.W. breeze, accompanied by rain, thunder,
and lightning. This weather was succeeded by calm,
and a fog that continued throughout the next day,
and confined our view to a few yards. Temperature
from 41° to 43°. On the atmosphere becoming clear
^*26th.*^*^ about nine in the evening of the 26th, we
discovered a lane of water, and immediately embarking,
we pulled, for an hour, without experiencing much in-
terruption from the ice. A fresh breeze then sprung
lip from the N.W., which brought with it a very dense
fog, and likewise caused the ice to close so fast upon
us, that we were compelled to hasten to the shore.
We had just landed, when the channel was complete-

In the Arctic Regions.

461

. ly closed. We encamped od the western side of a
river about two hundred yards broad, which, at the
request of Lieutenant Back, was named after Mr.
Backhouse, one of the under Secretaries of State for
Foreign Affairs. It appeared that the water that
flowed from this chrnnel had caused the opening by
which we had traveled from our last resting-place j
for beyond it, the ice was closely packed.

^Sfth."^' Some heavy rain fell in the night, and the
morning of the 27th was foggy ; but the sun, about
noon, having dispersed the fog, we discovered an open
channel, about half a mile from the shore.

^^Sth?^' "^^^ morning of the 29th opened with heavy
rain and fog ; the precursors of a strong gale from
E.N.E., which brought back the ice we had already
passed, and closely packed it along the beach, but we
could not perceive that the wind had the slighest
effect on the main body at a distance from the shore.
This was a very cold, comfortless day, the temperature
between 38° and 42°. On the following morning a
brilliant sun contributed with the gale to the disper-
sion of the mist which had, for some days past, over-
hung the Eocky Mountains, and we had the gratifica-
tion of seeing, for the first time, the whole length of
the British Chain of Mountains, which are more
peaked and irregular in their outline, and morb
pictuesque than those of the Buckland Range. In

mmm

462

Thirty Years

exploring the bed of a rivulet we found several pieces
of quartz, containing pyrites of a very bright color,
which so much attracted the attention of the crews,
that they spent several hours in examining every
stone, expecting to have their labor rewarded by the
discovery of some precious metal.

The gale having abated in the evening, we quickly
loaded the boats, and pulled them into a lane of water
that we had observed about half a mile from the shore.
This, however, extended only a short way to the west,
•and at the end of a mile and a half inclined towards
the beach, the ice beyond it being closely packed.
Before the boats could be brought to the land, they
received several heavy blows in passing through nar-
row channels, and over tongues of grounded ice. I
walked to the extreme point that we had in view
from the tent, and was rejoiced by the sight of a large
space of water in the direction of our course ; but up
to the point the ice was still compact, and heavy.
On my way I passed another Esquimaux village,
where tliere were marks of recent visitors.

We witnessed the setting of the sun at eleven p.m.,
an unwelcome sight, which the gloomy weather had,
till then, spared us ; for it forced upon our minds the
conviction that the favorable season for our operations
was fast passing away, though we had, as yet, made
so little progress. This was not the only uncomforta-

In the Arctic Regions.

463

ble circumstance that attended ns this evening. Our
friend Augustus was seized with a shivering fit, in
consequence of having imprudently rushed, when in
full perspiration, into a lake of cold water, to drag out
a reindeer which he had killed. He was unable to
walk on coming out of the water, and the consequence
would have been more serious had it not been for the
kindness of his companion, Wilson, who deprived
himself of his flannels and waistcoat to clothe him.
On their arrival at the tent, Augustus was put be-
tween blankets, and provided with warm chocolate,
and the only inconvenience that he felt next morning
was pain in his limbs.

^aiBt?^' We had several showers of rain daring the
night, with a steady S.W. breeze, and in the morning
of the 31st were delighted by perceiving the ice
loosening and driving off the land. We were afloat
in a few minutes, and enjoyed the novelty of pulling
through an uninterrupted channel as far as Point
Demarcation, which has been so named from its being
situated in longitude 141° W., the boundary between
the British and Russian dominions on the northern
coast of America. This point seems to be much
resorted to by the Esquimaux, as we found here many
winter houses, and four large stages. On the latter
were deposited several bundles of seal and deer skins,
aid several pair of snow-shoes. The snow-shoes were

464

Thirty Tears

netted with cords of deer-skin, and were shaped like
those used by the Indians near the Mackenzie. A
favorable breeze now sprang up ; and having ascer-
tained, by mounting one of the Esquimaux stages,
that there was still a channel of open water between
a low island and the main shore, we set sail to follow
its course. At the end of three miles we found the
water gradually to decrease from three fathoms to as
many feet, and shortly afterwards the boats repeatedly
took the ground. In this situation we were enveloped
by a thick fog, which limited our view to a few yards.
We, therefore, dragged the boats to the land, until
we could see our way ; this did not happen before ten
in the evening, when it was discovered from the sub-
mit of an eminence about two miles distant, that
though the channel was of some extent, it was very
shallow, and seemed to be barred by ice to the west-
ward. We also ascertained that it was bounded to
seaward by a long reef. The night proved very
stormy, anu we were but scantily supplied with drift
wood.
TuMday. Though the morning of the Ist of August
commenced with a heavy gale from E.N.E., and very
foggy weather, we proceeded to the reef, after much
fatigue in dragging the boats over the flats, under the
supposition that our best chance of getting forward
would be by passing on the outside of it. But there

\

V

In the Arctic Regions.

465

finding heavy ice lying aground, and so closely packed
as to preclude the possibility of putting the boats into
the water, it was determined to examine the channel
by walking along the shore of the reef. An outlet to
the sea was discovered, but the channel was so flat
that gulls were, in most parts, wading across it ; and
there was, therefore, no other course than to await
the separation of the ice from the reef On the dis-
persion of the fog in the afternoon, we perceived that
some of the masses of ice were from twenty to thirty
feet high ; and we derived little comfort from behold-
ing, from the top of one of them, an unbroken surface
of ice to seaward.

^'Uld!^'*^' ^^^ g*^^ ^^®^ without the least abatement
throughout the night, and until noon of the 2nd, when
it terminated in a violent gust, which overthrew the
tents. The field of ice was broken in the offing, and
the pieces put in motion ; and in the evening there ap-
peared a large space of open water, but we could not
take advantage of these favorable circumstances, in
consequence of the ice still closely besetting the reef.
Lieutenant Back occupied himself in sketching the
different views from the reef ; from one of which the
annexed engraving has been selected, as conveying an
accurate delineation of our position on Icy Reef. We
remarked large heaps of gravel, fifteen feet above the
surface of the reef, on the largest iceberg, which must

20*^

466

Thirty Years

have been caused by the pressure of the ice ; and from
the top of this berg we had the satisfaction of discov-
ering that a large herd of reindeer were marching in
line towards the opposite side of the chaunel. Our
party was instantly on the alert, and the best hunters
were sent in the Reliance in chase of them. The boat
grounded about midway across, and the eager sports-
men jumped overboard and hastened to the shore ;
but such was their want of skill, that only three fawns
were killed, out of a herd of three or four hundred.
The supply, however, w£.s sufficient for our present
use, and the circumstances of the chase afforded amu-
sing conversation for the evening.
Thurwiay, Qq ||jg moming of the 3rd a strong breeze

set in from the east, which we were rejoiced to find
caused a higher flood in the channel than we had yet
seen, and the hope of effecting a passage by its course
was revived ; as the ice was still fast to the reef, and
likely to continue so, it was considered better to oc-
cupy ourselves in dragging the boats through the
mud, than to continue longer in this irksome spot,
where the wood was already scarce, and the water in-
different. The boats, therefore, proceeded with four
men in each, while the rest of the crew walked along
the shore, and rendered assistance wherever it was
necessary, to drag them over the shallow parts. After
four hours* labor, we reached the eastern pait of the

In the Arctic Begwna,

467

bay, which I have had the pleasure of naming after
my friend Captain Beaufort, B.N., and which was
then covered with ice. We had also the happiness of
finding a channel that led to seaward, which enabled
us to get on the outside of the reef; but as we pushed
as close as we could to the border of the packed ice,
our situation, for the next four hours, was attended
with no little anxiety. The appearance of the clouds
bespoke the return of fog, and we were sailing with a
strong breeze through narrow cliannels, between heavy
pieces of drift ice, on the outside of a chain of reefs
that stretched across Beaufort Bay, which we knew
could not be approached within a mile, owing to the
shallowness of the water.

At six in the evening, the party passed the termi-
nation of the British chain of mountains, and the next
day came in sight of the RomerzofF chain, continuing
in boats along the shore. On the 7th of August, Fi-
ioxman Island was reached. In coasting along the
Polar Sea, the Expedition was greatly troubled by
the dense fogs, which almost put an end to traveling.

On the 16th day of August, the forces of the party
were turned homeward to the winter quarter, at Fort
Franklin, near Bear Lake River — which place they
reached en Thursday, September 21 — after traveling
in three months, 2048 ^statute miles. Dr. Richardson
had arrived with the Eaiitern detachment of the Ex-

468

Thirty Tears

pedition. He had traveled 1980 miles — a sea voyage
of 863 miles included — passing from Sacred Island to
Fort Encounter, Fort Encounter to the Copper Moun-
tains, and thence overland to Bear Lake.

The winter of 1826-7 was passed in comparative
comfort, certainly without actual suffering ; and late
in September, the party arrived in London.

<^

In the Arctic Regions,

469

CHAPTER XVII.

On the 26th of May, 1845, Franklin— long since
made Sir John Franklin — with the " Erehtia" and
" Terror" two strong and well made vessels, with
140 men set out on his last Arctic Expedition, and
from which he has never returned.

A letter from Sir John Franklin, dated from the
Whalefish Islands, Baffin's Bay, July 12, 1845, is the
last communication from the Expedition ever received
in England : their first winter-quarters have been dis-
covered, as we shall relate presently ; but from the
spring of 1846 all traces vanish ; no grave, no cairn,
no relic marks their progress ; no broken spar or shat-
tered mast give even the melancholy certainty of ship-
wreck and death ; the waters and the wilderness
guard their strange secret well, and " there is neither
voice nor any that answereth," to guide the progress
of the noble-minded men who voluntarily dare the
same dread fate in their search for their missing com-
rades. How arduously and well that search has been
prosecuted, it will be impossible here to relate.

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470

Thirty Years

Sir John Franklin's official instructions directed
him to proceed through Barrow's Straits until he
reached Cape Walker (lat. 74'^ 15' N., long. 98° W.)
and then to steer S. W. direct for Behringa Straits.

The story of the search after Sir John Franklin is
itself alone worthy of an entire volume, and should
the success *of the present volume warrant it such a
volume may follow it as a sequel. "

The only information respecting the Expedition,
and that is very ohscure, is contained in the suhjoin-
ed letter of Dr. Rae, who prosecuted an overland
journey in search of Franklin :

Repulse Bay, July 29.

« Sir, — I have the honor to mention, for the information of my
Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that during my journey
over the ice and snow this spring, with the view of completing the
Burvey of the west shore of Boothia, I met with Esquimaux in Pelly
Bay, from one of whom I learned that a party of * white men'
(Kablounans) had perished from want of food some distance to the
westward, and not far beyond a large river, containing many falls
and rapids. Subsequently, further particulars were received, and
a number of articles purchased, which places the fate of a portion,
if not of all, of the then survivers of Sir John Franklin's long-
lost party beyond a doubt — a fate terrible as the imagination can
conceive.

" The substance of the information obtained at various times and
from various sources was as follows : —

" In the spring, four winters past (spring, 1850), a party of

'*-

In tJie Arctic Regions.

471

' white men,' amounting to about forty, were seen traveling southr.
ward over the ice, and dragging a boat with them, by some Esqui-
maux, who were killing seals near the north shore of King Wil-
liam's Land, which is a large island. None of the party could
speak the Esquimaux language intelligibly, but by signs the natives
were made to understand that their ship, or ships, had been crushed
by ice, and that they were now going to where they expected to
find deer to shoot. From the appearance of the men, all of whom
except one oflSoer, looked thin, they were then supposed to be get-
ting short of provisions, and purchased a small seal from the na-
tives. At a later date the same season, but previous to the break-
ing up of the ice, the bodies of some thirty ^rsons were discovered
on the continent, and five on an island near it, about a long day's
journey to the N.W. of a large stream, which can be no other than
Back's Great Fish Eiver (named by the Esquimaux Doot-ko-hi-
calik), as its description, and that of the low shore in the neighbor-
hood of Point Ogle and Montreal Island, agree exactly with that
of Sir George Back. Some of the bodies had been buried (prob-
ably those of the first victims of famine), some were in a tent or
tents, others under the boat, which had been turned over to form a
shelter, and several lay scattered about in different directions. Of
those found on the island one was supposed to have been an officer,
as he had a telescope strapped over his shoulders, and bis double-
barrelled gun lay underneath him.

" From the mutilated state of many of the corpses, and the con-
tents of the kettles, it is evident that our wretched countrymen had
been driven to the last resource — cannibalism — as a means of pro-
longing existence.

" There appeared to have been an abundant stock of ammunition
as the powder was emptied in a heap on the ground by the natives
out of the kegs or cases containing it ; and a quantity of ball and
shot was found below high-water mark, having probably been left

m

472

Thirty Years

Ot) tbo iro close to the bcttcli. lliore must have boon a nambcr of
watchca, compasses, tcleacopes, guns (several double-barrelled), &c.,
all of which appear to have been broken up, as I saw pieces of
those diffl'reut articles with the Esquimaux, together with some sil-
ver spoons ond forks. I purchased as many as I could get. A list
of the most important of these I enclose, with a rough sketch of
the cresta and initials on the forks and spociis. The articles them-
selreg shall bo handed over to tho Secretary of the Hudson's Bay
Company on my arrival in London.

" None of tho Esquimaux with whom I conversed had seen the
' whites,' nor had they ever been at tho place where the bodies were
found, but had their information from those who had been there,
and who had seen the party when traveling.

" I oflbr no apology for taking the liberty of addressing you, as I
do 80 from a belief that their lordships would be desirous of being
put in possession, at as early a dato as possible, of any tidings,
however meagro and unexpectedly obtained, regarding this painfully
interesting subject.

" I may add that, by means of our guna and nets, wo obtained an
ample supply of provisions last autumn, and my small party passed
the winter in snow-houses in comparative comfort, tho skins of the
deer shot afibrding abundant warm clothing and bedding. My
spriag journey was a failure, in consequence of an accumulation of
obstacles, several of which my former experience in arctic traveling
had iiot taught me to expect. — I have, &c.,

"JOHN RAE, O.F.,
" Commanding Hudson's Bay Company's Arctic Expedition."

To such a tragic detail as this nothing can be added.
There is little from which to draw consolation, and
imagination requires no aid to portray the weary

In the Arctic Regions.

473

longing for rest and home, which not even the agony
of liiinger could subdue — vain desires, hopeless crav
ings, never to ho realized on earth ; but can wo for a
moment doubt, that the merciful All-Father looked
pitifully down upon the homeless ones, and, in his
tender love, closed their long wanderings, and gave
them a calmer home and a more perfect rest than the
best that earth could offer 1 There is much to specu-
late upon in this brief narrative. What had become
of all the rest ? One hundred and forty men left
these shores full of health and vigor, nine short years
ago. This painful narrative accounts only too clearly
for forty, but where are the hundred ? Then, again,
another question arises;, ^ow had the intermediate
time been spent between the winter passed at Becchey
Island, 1845-6, and the piteous tragedy of 1850 ?
Searching parties have visited every probable spot
where they could have touched, and since some were
certainly alive at such a comparatively recent date, it
seems quite inexplicable that we should not have come
upon some traces, either of winter quarters, sledging
parties, or shipwreck. How was it, again, that while
the Esquimaux lived comfortably through the winter,
the English party in the same district were a prey to
all the agonies of starvation ? Questions like these
might be multiplied to any extent, but how shall they
be answered?

m

♦-

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Being
S

i one whosi
r| peculiar (
^ a disclosii
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hist(»ry o
or inoder
graded st
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sons am
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should bi
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great na

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WITH
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lORMOi.

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[Being the Narrative of MRS. MARY ETTIE V.

SMITH, a sister of one of the 3formon high

priest.% and long in the confidence of

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ight the anthor to
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