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WANDERINGS

nr

SOUTH AMERICA,

TBE

NORTH-WEST OF THE UNITED STATES,

AND THE ANTILLES,

IN THB TEARS 1813, 1816, 1820, b 1834,

WITH

ORtOINAL INSTRUCTIONS
FOR THE PERFECT PRESERVATION OP BIRDS, &c.

FOR

CABINETS OF NATURAL HISTORY.
/

BY CHAELES WATEETON, ESQ.

SIXTH EDITION.

r r
' i

LONDON:

T. FELLOWES, LUDGATE HILL.

1866.

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LONDON :
« CiAV, SON, AND TAYLOR, PBINTER8,

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M

PREFACE

TO THE FIRST EDITION.

I OFFER this book of "Wanderings" with a
hesitating hand. It has little merit, and must
make its way through the world as well as it can.
It will receive many a jostle as it goes along,
and perhaps is destined to add one more to the
number of slain, in the field of modem criticism.
But if it fall, it may still, in death, be useful to
me ; for, should some accidental rover take it up,
and, in turning over its pages, imbibe the idea of
going out to explore Guiana, in order to give the
world an enlarged description of that noble coun-
try, I shall say, "fortem ad fortia misi," and
demand the armour ; that is, I shall lay claim
to a certain portion of the honoura he will receive, "
upon the plea that I was the first mover of his

<i

■1

■iWveli- .-, J^— , — ,_^^% J

VI

niEFAOE.

||, discoveries ; for, as Ulysses sent Achilles to Troy,

so I sent him to Guiana. I intended to have
written much more at length; but days, and
months, and years have passed away, and nothing
has been done. Thinking it very probable that
I shall never have patience enough to sit down
and write a full account of all I saw and examined
in those remote wilds, I give up the intention
of doing so, and send forth this account of my
" V/anderings," just as it was written at the time.

If critics are displeased with it in its present
form, I beg to observe, that it is not totally devoid
of interest, and that it contains something useful.
Several of the unfortunate gentlemen who went
out to explore the Congo, were thankful for the
instructions they found in it; and Sir Joseph
Banks, on sending back the journal, said in his
letter, " I return your journal, with abundant
thanks for the very instructive lesson you have
favoun..^. us with this morning, which far excelled,
in real utility, everything I have hitherto seen."
• And in another letter he says, " I hear with
particular pleasure your intention of resuming

PREFAOB.

VU

hilles to Troy,
snded to have
)ut days, and
T, and nothing
probable that
h to flit down
and examined
the intention
ccount of my
L at the time,
in its present
totally devoid
lething useful,
len who went
nkful for the
d Sir Joseph
1, said in his
ith abundant
son you have
h far excelled,
litherto seen."
I hear with
of resuming

your interesting travels, to which natural history
has already been so much indebted." And again,
" I am sorry you did not deposit some part of
your last harvest of birds in t.xe British Museum,
that your name might become familiar to natu-
ralists, and your unrivalled skUl in presei-ving
birds be made known to the public." And again,
" You certainly have talents to set forth a book,
which will improve and extend materially the
bounds of natural science."

Sir Joseph never read the third adventure.
Whilst I was engaged in it, death robbed England
of one of her most valuable subjects, and deprived
the Eoyal Society of its brightest ornament.

'

fifcKMWl . ~

.MJL

RTV

HMitNilwL

WANDEKINGS
i»

SOUTH AMEEICA.

FIRST JOUKNEY.

n«o licrtm, neo latenii in uihsHs

BaUix fofelllt aie locla."

In the month of April, 1812, I left the town of
Stabrook, to travel through the wilds of Demerara and
Eesequibo, a part of d-demnt Dutch Guiana, in South
America.

The chief objects in view wore to collect a quantity

lU object. °^ *^^ strongest Wourali poison, and to reach

the inland frontier fort of Portuguese Guiana.

It would be a tedious journey for him who wishes to

travel through these wilds, to set out from Stabroek on

foot. The sun would exhaust him in his attempts to

wade thi-ough the swamps, and the mosquitos at night

would deprive him of every hour of sleep.

The road for hoises runs parallel to the river; but it
extends a very little way, and even ends before the
cultivation of the plantation ceases.

The only mode, then, that remains is to proceed by
water; and when you come to the high lands, you
may make your way through the forest on foot, or
continue your route on the river.

WANDEUhVOS IN SOUTH AHr.niCA.

"TT

■I

Aftor paHMiiif? th« third island in the nvot Domernra,
Fii''n<irtiiu thei'u aro fow plantatioua to he seen, and
.ountry. ^jj^^^j ^^^ joining on to ono another, but
sopftrntod hy Inrgo tracts of wood.

The 1.00 is the hist whoro the sugar-cuno is growing.
Till •^•eator part of its negrocH have just been ordered to
anotlior estate; and ore a few months shall have elapsed,
all signs of cultivation will be lost in underwood.

Higher up stand the sugar works of Amelia's Wanrd,
solitary and abandoned ; and after passing these there
is not a rifin 'to inform the traveller that either coffee
or sugar has been cidtivated.

From Amelia's Waard, an unbroken range of forest
covers each bank of the river, saving here and there
where a hut discovers itself, inhabited by free people of
colour, with a rood or two of bared ground about it ; or
where the wood-cutter has erected himself a dwelling,
and cleared a few acres for pasturage. Sometimes you
see level ground on each side of you, for two or three
hours at a stretch ; at other times, a gently sloping hill
presents itself; and often, on turning a point, the eye
is pleased with the contrast of an almost perpendicular
height jutting into the water. The trees put you in
mind of an eternal spring, with summer and autumn
kindly blended into it.

Here you may see a sloping extent of noble trees,
whoso foliage displays a charming variety of every
shade, from the lightest to the darkest green and
purple. The tops of some are crowned with bloom of
the loveliest hue, while the boughs of others bend with
a profusion of seeds and fruits.

Those whose heads have been bared by time, or
blasted by the thunder-storm, strike the eye as a

TT

iMKniOA.

tho rivor Domernra,
u to be seen, and
I ono another, but

^r-cano is growing,
list been ordered to
I shall have elapsed,
a underwood,
of Amelia's Wanrd,
passing these there
at that either coffee

cen range of forest
ing here and there
ed by free people of
jround about it ; or
himself a dwelling,
;e. Sometimes you
3U, for two or three
gently sloping hill
Dg a point, the eye
most perpendicular
e trees put you in
mmer and autumn

ent of noble trees,
J variety of every
darkest green and
med with bloom of
)f others bend with

bared by time, or
ike the eye as a

FIRST JOUHNBT. 3

Reckon to ho sontimontal tmveller to stop u ...on.ent

>ke men and kingdoms, have thoir periods of mis-
tortune ond decay.

The first rocks of any considerable size that arc
Ho,.!.,. observed on tho side of the river, are at a
I.laco called Saba, from the Indian word

thetar" r '*°"' ^'''' •^PP^^' «'« down":
the waters edge, not sheLy. but smooth, and their

exuberances rounded off. «„d in some plies deepll
.^wed,^.^^^^^^^

JJllV ^l")u "^'"'^ "P "'*'* *'°^"' »d the huge
effect. You see a few coffee-trees of a fine luxuriant .

Ke«i.ien™ Sroyfth ; and nearly on the top of Sabn
;;[,,th« pet- stands the house of the postholder. He is
appomted by Government to give in his
report to the protector of the Indians, of what is goit
on amongst them, and to prevent suspicious S
from passing up the river. ^ ^

When the Indians assemble here, the stranger may
have an opportunity of seeing the Aborigines. 'IZ
to the sound of their country music, and pointed in
their native style. They wiU shoot their Lots ^

fromie b7 "'"^^ "'^ ■"' ««"^ *^° Poisoneld^
from the blow-pjpe, true to its destination; and he^
he may often view all the different shades fTom the
J«d savage to the white man, and from the '^l^^^l
to the sootiest son of Africa.

Beyond this post there are no more habitations of
white men, or free people of colour.
^ b2

I

k

TrceB.

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

In a country so .vlenaively covered -with wood as
this is, ha>]ing every advantage that a tro-
pical sun, and the richest mould in many
places, can give to vegetation, it is natural to look for
trees of very large dimensions ; but it is rare to meet
with them above six yards in circumference. If larger
have ever existed, they have fallen a sacrifice either to
the axe or to fire.

If, however, they disappoint you in size, they make
ample amends in height. Heedless, and bankrupt in
all curiosity, must he be, who can journey on without
stopping to take a view of the towering mora. Its
topmost branch, when naked with age, or dried by
f ^cident, is the favourite resort of the toucan. Many a
time has this singular bird felt the shot faintly strike
him, from the gun of the fowler beneath, and owed his
life to the distance betwixt them.

The trees which form these far-extending wilds are
as useful as they are ornamental. It would take a
volume of itself to describe them.

The green-heart, famous for its hardness and dura-
bility; the hackea, for its toughness; the ducalabali,
surpassing mahogany; the ebony and letter-wood, vieing
with the choicest wools of the old world; the locust-
tree, yielding copal; and the hayawa and olou trees,
furnishing a sweet.-smelling resin, — are all to be met with
in the forest, betwixt the plantations and the rock Saba.

Beyond this rock, the country has been little ex-
plored ; but it is very probable that these, and a vast
collection of other kinds, and possibly many new species,
are scattered up and down, in all directions, through
the swamps, and hills, and savannas of ci-devant Dutch
Guiana.

- ifiitm

<'timuii»i'w<linimiiM»KlltlB)iiil

hMmi

t

lHERIOA.

jred -with wood as
irantage that a tro-
at mould in many
natural to look for
b it is rare to meet
afersnce. If larger
a sacrifice either to

in size, they make
8, and bankrupt in
journey on without
)wering mora. Its
I age, or dried by
le toucan. Many a
shot faintly strike
leath, and owed his

jxtending wilds are
It would take a

hardness and dura-
)ss; the ducalabali,
1 letter-wood, vieing
i world ; the locust-
iwa and olou trees,
(re all to be met with
I and the rock Saba,
has been little ex-
at these, and a vast
y many new species,
directions, through
i of ci-devant Dutch

FIRST JOCRNET. 6

On viewing the stately trees around him, the natu-
ralist will observe many of them bearing leaves, and
blossoms, and fruit not their own.

The wUd fig-tree, as large as a 'common English
«g-t^/ *"'' *PP^^*^®^' often rears itself from one of the
thick branches at the top of the mora ; and
when its fruit is ripe, to it the birds resort for nourish-
ment. It was to an ^ndigested seed, passing through
the body of the bird which had perched on the mora,
that the fig-tree first owed its elevated station there.
The sap of the mora raised it into full bearing ; but
now, in its turn, it is doomed to contribute a portion of
Its own sap and juices towards the growth of difierent
species of vines, the seeds of which, also, the birds
deposited on its branches. These soon vegetate, and
bear fruit in great quantities; so, what with their
usurpation of the resourcas of he fig-tree, and the fig.
tree of the mora, the mora, unable to support a charge
which nature never intended it should, languishes and
dies under its burden; and then the fig-tree, and its
usurping progeny of vines, receiving no more succour
from their late foster-parent, droop and perish in their
turn.

A vine called the bush-rope by the wood-cutters,
^ n.e bush- on account of its use in hauling out the
■ heaviest timber, has a singular appearance

m the forests of Demerara. Sometimes yoa see it nearly
as thick as a man's body, twisted Uke a corkscrew round
the taUest trees, and rearing its head high above their
tops. At other times, three or four of them, like strands
m a cable, join tree and tree, and branch and branch
together. Others, descending from on high, take root as
soon as their extremity touches the ground, and appear

6

WANDEUINOS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

like shrouds and stays supporting the mainmast of a
luie-of-battle ship; while others, sending out parallel,
oblique, horizontal, and perpendicular shoots in all
directions, put you in mind of what travellers call a
matted forest. Oftentimes a tree, above a hundred feet
high, uprooted by the whirlwind, is stopped in its fall
by these amazing cables of nature; and hence it is
that you account for the phenomenon of seeing trees,
not only vegetating, but sending forth vigorous shoots,
though far from their perpendicular, and their trunks
inclined to every degree from the meridian to the
horizon.

Their heads remain firmly supported by the bush-
rope ; many of their roots soon refix themselves in the
earth, and frequently a strong shoot will sprout out per-
pendicularly from near the root of the reclined trunk,
and in time become a fine tree. No grass grows under
the trees, and few weeds, except in the swamps.

The high grounds are pretty clear of underwood, and,
with a cutlass to sever the small bush-ropes, it is not
difficult walking among the trees.

The soil, chiefly formed by the fallen leaves and
decayed trees, is very rich and fertile in the
valleys. On Uie hills, it is little better than
sand. The raias seem to have carried away, and swept
iato the valleys, every particle which nature intended
to have formed a mould.

Four-footed animals are scarce, consider-
ing how very thinly these forests are in-
habited by nen.

Several species of the animal commonly called tiger,
though, in reality, it approaches nearer to the leopard,
are found here; and two of their diminutives, named

SoUs.

Four footed
animalH.

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le mainmast of a
ding out parallel,
lar shoots in all
; travellers call a
ve a hundred feet
topped in its fall

and hence it is
n of seeing trees,
I vigorous shoots,

and their trunks
meridian to the

led by the bush-
bhemselves in the
ill sprout out per-
e reclined trunk,
^ass grows under
le swamps.
f underAvood, and,
ih-ropes, it is not

'alien leaves and
and fertile in the

little better than
. away, and swept

nature intended

scarce, consider-
e forests are in-

lonly called tiger,
er to the leopard,
ninutivea^ named

FIRST JOURNEY. f

tiger-cats. The tapir, the lobba, and deer afford excel-
lent food, and chiefly frequent the swamps and low
ground, near the sides of the river and creeks.

In stating that four-footed animals are scarce, the
peccan must be excepted. Three or four hundred of
them herd together, and traverse the wilds in all
directions, in quest of roots and fallen seeds. The
Indians mostly shoot them with poisoned arrows. When
wounded, they run about one hundred and fifty paces;
they then drop, and make wholesome food.

The red monkey, erroneously called the baboon, is
heard oftener than it is seen ; while the common brown
monkey, the bisa, and sacawinki rove from tree to tree,
and amuse the stranger as he journeys on.

A species of the polecat, and another of the fox, are
destructive to the Indian's poultry ; while the opossum,
the guana, and salemponta afford him a delicious morsel
The small ant-bear, and the large one, remarkable for
Its long, broad, bushy tail, are sometimes seen on the
tops of the wood-ants' nests ; the armadillas bore in the
sand-luUs, like rabbits in a warren; and the porcupine
IS now and then discovered in the trees over your
head.

This, too, is the native country of the sloth. His
The aioot ^^^^^ ^ gestures, and his cries, all conspire
to entreat you to take pity on him. These
are the only weapons of defence which nature hath
Riven him. While other animals assemble in herds, or
in pairs range through these boundless wilds, the slo^h
18 solitary, and almost stationary; he cannot escape
from you. It is said, his piteous moans make the tiger
relent, and turn out of the way. Do not, then, level
your gun at him, or pierce him with a poisoned arrow ;

JiiiAWiiiii^i

timmmtmiiamm.

8

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

he has never hurt one living creature. A few leaves,
and those of the commoneBt and coarsest kind, are all
he asks for his support. On comparing him with other
animals, you would say that you could perceive defi-
ciency, deformity, and superabundance in his com-
position. He has no cutting teeth, and, though four
stomachs, he still wants the long intestines of rumi-
nating animals. He has only one inferior aperture, as
in birds. He has no soles to his feet, nor has he the
power of moving his toes separately. His hair is flat,
and puts you in nimd of grass withered by the wintry
blast His legs are too short; they appear deformed
by the manner in which they are joined to the body ;
and when he is on the ground, they seem as if only
calculated to be of use in climbing trees. He has
forty- six ribs, while the elephant has only forty ; and
his claws are disproportionably long. Were you to
mark down, upon a graduated scale, the different claims
to superiority amongst the four-footed animals, this
poor ill-formed creature's claim would be the last upon
the lowest degree.

Demerara yields to no country in the world ia her
wonderful and beautiful productions of the
feathered race. Here the finest precious
stones are far surpassed by the vivid tints which adorn
the birds. The naturalist may exclaim that nature has
not known where to stop in forming new species, and
painting her requisite shades. Almost every one of
those singular and elegant birds described by Buffon as
belonging to Cayenne, are to be met with in Demerara ;
but it is only by an indefatigable naturalist that they
are to be found.

The scarlet carew breeds in innumerable quantities

ifSsmtrnmaei

iiKinwiftWf in: — r

-TTTririfwritiittinaBiiMg

MGRICA.

ive. A few leaves,
arsest kind, are all
;ng him with other
3uld perceive defi-
ance in his coni-
, and, though four
ntestines of rnmi-
rtferior aperture, as
3et, nor has he the
His hair is flat,
Bi-ed by the wintry
Y appear deformed
ined to the body ;
y seem as if only
g trees. He has
18 only forty ; and
ig. Were you to
he different claims
ited animals, this
d be the last upon

I the world ia her
productions of the
le finest precious
tints which adorn
im that nature has
g new species, and
Qost every one of
ribed by Buffon as
dth in Demerara ;
aturalist that they

merable quantities

■ipr>

FIRST JOURKTliT.

9

in the muddy islands on the coasts of Pomauron ; the
egrets and crabiers in the same place. They resort to
the mud-flats at ebbing water, while thousands of sand-
pil)er8 and plovers, with here and there a spoonbill and
flamingo, are seen amongst them. The pelicans go farther
out to sea, but return at sundown to the courada trees.
The humming-birds are chiefly to be founfl near the
flowers at which each of the species of the genus is
wont to feed. Tlie pie, ithc gallinaceous, the columbine,
and passerine tribes, resort to the fruit-bearing trees.

You never fail to see the common vulture where
The vulture. *^®™ ^^ Carrion. In passing up the river
there was an opportunity of seeing a pair of
the king of the vultures ; they were sitting on the naked
branch of a tree, with about a dozen of the common ones
with them. A tiger had killed a goat the day before ;
he had been driven away in the act of sucking the
blood, and not finding it safe or prudent to return, the
goat remained in the same place where he had killed it;
it had begun to putrefy, and the vultures had arrived
that morning to claim the savoury morseL

At the close of day, the vampires leave the hollow
The vampire. *'*^' ^^it^^r they had fled at the morning's
dawn, and scour along the river's banks in
quest of prey. On waking from sleep, the astonished
traveller finds his hammock all stained with blood. It
is tlie vampire that hath sucked him. Not man alone,
but every unprotected animal, is exposed to his depre-
dations ; and so gently does this nocturnal surgeon
draw the blood, that, instead of being roused, the
patient is lulled into a still profounder sleep. There
are two species of vampire in Demerara, and both suck
living animals : one is rather larger than the common

10

, WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

bat; the other measures above two feet from wing to
whig extended.

Snakes are frequently met with in the woods betwixt

Snakeg. ^^ sea-coast and the rock Saba, chiefly near
the creeks and oa the banks of the river.
They are large, beautiful, and formidable. The rattle-
snake seems partial to a tract of ground known by the
. name of C?anal Number Three ; there the etfects of his
poison will be long remembered.

The Camoudi snake has been killed from thirty to
forty feet long ; though not venomous, his size renders
him destructive to the passing^animals. The Spaniards
in the Oroonoque positively affinn that he grows to the
length of seventy or eighty feet, and that he will
destroy the strongest and largest bull. His name seems
to confirm this ; there he is called " matatoro," which
literaUy means " bull-kQler." Thus he may be ranked
amongst the deadly snakes; for it comes nearly to the
same thing in the end, whether the victim dies by
poison from the fangs, which corrupts his blood and
makes it stink horribly, or whether his body be crushed
to mummy, and swallowed by this hideous beast

The whipsnake of a beautiful changing green, and
the coral with alternate broad transverse bars of black
and red, glide from bush to bush, and may be handled
with safety ; they are harmless little creatures.

The Labarri snake is speckled, of a dirty brown
colour, and can scarcely be distinguished from the
ground or stump on which he is coiled up ; he grows to
the length of about eight feet, and his bite often proves
£)tal in a few minutes.

Unrivalled in his display of every lovely colour of
the rainbow, and unmatched in the eflfects of his deadly

:iii 11 III r ii«niijj iijli.i iiiWi|i|lii!#«i«tsi|||W«irwg<ii»i<iii^ruHijft^ iw^^

!i.'S^H(ir""-rt«niTBiB

■Z-

^ *

MEHICA.

foet from wing to

tho woods betwixt
Saba, chiefly near
anka of the river,
lable. The rattle-
ind known by the
e the etfects of his

led from thirty to
.8, his size renders
Is. The Spaniards
at he grows to the
and that he will
■ His name seems
' matatoro," which
he may be ranked
(mes nearly to the
le victim dies by
)ts his blood and
is body be crushed
deous beast
mging green, and
erse bars of black
1 may be handled
creatures,
>f a dirty brown
;uished from the
I up ; he grows to
bite often proves

r lovely colour of
fects of his deadly

FIRST JOURNEY.

II

poison, the counacouclii glides undaunted on, sole
monarch of these forests; he is commonly known by
the name of the bush-master. Both man and boast fly
before him, and allow him to pursue an undisputed path.
He sometimes grows to the length of fourteen feet.

A few small caimcn, from two to twelve feet long, may
be observed now and then in passing up and down the
river ; they just keep their heads above the water, and a
stranger would not know them from a rotten stump.
Lizards of the finest green, brown, and copper colour,
^^ 1^ from two inches to two feet and a half long,
are ever and anon rustling among the fallen
leaves, and crossing the path before you ; whilst the
chameleon is busily employed in chasing insects round
the trunks of the neighbouring trees.
The fish are of many different sorts, and well-tasted.

Fish ^"* "''*' 8®°^™'^y speaking, very plentiful.
It is probable that their numbers are con-
siderably thinned by the otters, which are much larger
than those of Europe. In going through the overflowed
savannas, which have all a communication with the
river, you may often see a dozen or two of them sporting
amongst the sedges before you.
This warm and humid climate seems particularly
adapted to the producing of insects ; it gives
birth to myriads, beautiful past description
in their variety of tints, astonishing in their form and
size, and many of them noxious in their qualities.

He whose eye can distinguish the various beauties of
uncultivated nature, and whose ear is not shut to the
wild sounds in the woods, will be delighted in passing -
up the river Demerara. Every now and then the
maam or tinamou sends forth one long and plaintive

19

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

whistle from the depth of the forest, and then stops ;
whUst the yelping of the toucan, and the shrill voice
of the bird called pi-pi-yo, are hoard during the interval.
The campanero never fails to attrait the attention of
the passenger : at a distance of nearly three miles, you
may hear this snow-white bird tolling every four or
five minutes like the distant convent-bell. From six
to nine in the morning, the forests resound with the
mingled cries and strains of the feathered race ; after
this they gradually die away. From eleven to three all
nature is hushed as in a midnight silence, and scarce a
note is heard, saving that of the campanero and the
pi-pi-yo ; it is then that, oppressed by the solar heat,
the birds retire to the thickest shade, and wait for the
refreshing cool of evening.

At sundown the vampires, bats, and goat-suckers
dart from their lonely retreat, and skim along the trees
on the river's bank. The different kinds of frogs almost
stun the ear with their hoarse and hollow-sounding
croaking, while the owls and goat-suckers lament and
mourn all night long.

About two hours before daybreak you will hear the
red monkey moaning as though in deep distress ; the
houtou, a solitary bird, and only found in the thickest
recesses of the forest, distinctly articulates "houtou,
houtou," in a low and plaintive tone, an hour before
sunrise ; the maam whistles about the same hour ; the
hannaquoi, pataca, and maroudi announce his near ap-
proach to the eastern horizon, and the parrots and the
parroquets confirm his arrival there.

The crickets chirp from sunset to sunrise, and often
during the day when the weather is cloudy. The
beterouge is extremely numerous in these extensive

mmmmm

:.-.rr-">' YJiaSSiBa

AMERICA.

est, and then stops ;
and the ahrill voice
i during the interval.
ait the attention of
»rly three miles, you
jlling every four or
ent-bell. From six
ta resound with the
eathered race ; after
u eleven to three all
silence, and scarce a
campanero and the
i by the solar heat,
de, and wait for the

8, and goat-suckers
ikim along the trees
inds of frogs almost
id hollow-sounding
suckers lament and

k you will hear the
deep distress ; the
und in the thickest
rticulates "houtou,
ne, an horn- before
he same hour ; the
lounce his near ap-
the parrots and the

> sunrise, and often
r is cloudy. The
in these extensive

FIRST JOCRNET.

13

wilds, and not only man, but beasts and ])irds, are tor-
mented by it. Mosquitos are very raro after you posj
the third ishind in the Demerara, and sand-flios but
seldom appear.

Courteous reader, here thou hast the outlines of an
amazing landscape given thee j thou wilt see that the
principal parts of it are but faintly traced, some of
them scarcely visible at all, and that the shades are
wholly wanting. If thy soul partakes of the ardent
flame which the persevering Mungo Park's did, these
outlines will be enough for thee : they will give thee
some idea of what a noble country this is; and if thou
hast but courage to set about giving the world a finished
picture of it, neither materials to work on, nor colours
to paint it in its true shades, will be wanting to thee.
It may appear a difficult task at a distance ; but look
close at it, and it is nothing at all ; provided thou
hast but a quiet mind, little more is necessary, and the
genius which presides over these wilds will kindly help
thne through the rest. She will allow thee to slay the
fewn and to cut down the mountain-cabbage for thy
support, and to select from every part of her domain
whatever may be necessary for the work thou art
about ; but having killed a pair of doves in order to
enable thee to give mankind a true and proper de-
scription of them, thou must not destroy a third
through wantonness, or to show what a good marks-
man thou art: that would only blot the picture thou
art finishing, not colour it.

Though retired from the haunts of men, and even
without a friend with thee, thou wouldst not find it
solitary. The crowing of the hannaquoi will sound in
thine ears like the daybreak town-clock; and the

14

WANDEHINGS IN SOUTH AMEBIOA.

VI

wren and tho thnish will join witli thoo in thy matin
hynin to thy Creator, to thank Him for thy night'a
rpflt

At noon the Oonius will lead thee to the trooly, one
leaf of which will defend thee from both sun and rain.
And if, in the cool of the evening, thou hust been
tempted to stray too far from thy place of abode, and
art deprived of light to write down the information
The flre-a ^^°^ ^^^ Collected, the ftre-fly, which thou
wilt see in almost every bush around thee,
will be thy candle. Hold it over thy pocket-book, in
any position which thou knowest will not hurt it, and
it will afford thee ample light. And when thou hast
done with it, put it kindly back again on the next
branch to thee. It will want no other reward for its
services.

When in thy hammock, should the thought of thy
little crosses and disappointments, in thy ups and
downs through life, break in upon thee, and throw
The owl *'*®® ^^^ * pensive mood, the owl will bear
thee company. She will tell thee that hard
has been her fate too ; and at intervals, " Whip-poor-
WiU," and « Willy come go," wiU take up the tale of
sorrow. Ovid has told thee how the owl once boasted
the human form, and lost it for a very small offence ;
and were the poet alive now, he would inform thee
that " Whip-poor-Will" and " WiUy come go " are the
shades of those poor African and Indian slaves who
died worn out and broken-hearted. They wail and cry
"Whip-poor-Will," " Willy come go," all night long;
and often, when the moon shines, you see them sitting
on the green turf, near the houses of those whose
ancestors tore them from the bosom of tiieir helpless

iSJWB"

AMEIIICA.

Ii thoo in thy mntin
Urn for thy night's

Be to the troely, one
I both sun and rain,
ing, thou huHt been
place of abode, and
wn the information
Hre-fly, which thou
' bush around thee,
thy pocket-book, in
rill not hurt it, and
nd when thou hast
again on the next
ther reward for its

the thought of thy
I, in thy ups and
D thee, and throw
i, the owl will bear
1 tell thee that hard
rvals, "Whip-poor-
ake up the tale of
le owl once boasted
very small offence ;
urould inform thee
f come go " are the
Indian slaves who
They wail and cry
0," all night long ;
ou see them sitting
IS of those whose
n of tiieir helpless

FIRST JocnNirr.

15

families, whicli all probably porishcl through grief and
want, after their support was gone.

About an hour above the rock of Suba stands the
Bimon'.hut. ^Z'^"*'**'"" "<" «n Indian, called Himon, „n
the top of a hill. Tho side next the river is
almost perpendicular, and you may easily throw a stone
over to the opposite bank. H^re there was an oppor-
tunity of seeing man in his rudest state. The Indians
who frequented this habitation, though living in the
midst of woods, bore evident marks of attention to
their persons. Their hair was neatly collected, and tied
np m a knot ; their bodies fancifUly painted red, and
the pamt wan scented with hayawa. This gave them a
Kay and animated appearance. Some of them had on
necklaces, composed of the teeth of wild boars slain in
the chase; many wor« rings, and others had an orna-
ment on the left arm, midway betwixt the shoulder and
the elbow. At the close of day, they regularly bathed
in tho river below ; and the next morning seemed busy
in renewing the faded colours of their faces.

One day there came into the hut a form which
hteraUy might be called the wUd man of tho woods
On entering, he laid down a ball of wax which he had
collected in the forest His hammock was all ragged
and torn; and his bow, though of good wood, was
without any ornament or polish,-" enibuit domino
c^tior esse suo." His face was meagre, his looks for-
bidding, and his whole appearance neglected. His lone
black hair hung from his head in matted confusion ;
nor had his body, to all appearance, ever been painted.
Ihey gave him some cassava bread and boiled fish
which he ate voraciously, and soon after left the hut'
As he went out, you could observe no traces in his

16

WANDEBINOS IN SOUTH AMKUICA.

countunancu or duniunnour which indicated thiit ho wiw
in tho least niiudl'ul of having be«n boncfitod by tho
■ociety ho wiw just leaving.

Tlio Indians said that lie had nnithor wife, nor chiUl,
nor friend. Thoy had often tried to pewuade him to
cumu and live amongHt them ; but all was of no avail.
Ho went roving on, plundering tlio wild bees of thoir
honov, and picking up tl»e fallen nuts and fruits of tho
forest. When he fell in with game, ho procured fire
from two sticks, and cooked it on the spot. When a
hut happened to be in bis way, ho stepped in, and
asked for something to eat ; and tiiou months elapsed
ere they saw him again. They did not know what hod
caused him to be thus unsettled ; he had been so for
years; nor did they boliove that even old ago itself
would cliange tho habits of this poor, harmless, solitary
wanderer.

From Simon's, the traveller may reach the largo fall
with ease in four days.

The first falls that he meets are merely rapids, scarce
a stone appearing abo^e the water in the rainy season ;
and those in the bed of the river barely high enough to
arrest the water's course, and, by causing a bubbling,
show that they are there.

With this small change of appearance in the stream
the stranger observes nothing new till he comes within
eight or ten miles of the great fall. Each side of the
river presents an uninterrupted range of wood, just as it
did below. All the productions found betwixt the plan-
tations and the rock Saba, are to be met with here.

From Simon's to the great fall, there are five habi-
tations of the Indians : two of them close to the
river's side j the other three a little way in the forest.

m

f^^'it^f^ygi

I AUKKICA.

iiulicutud timt ho wii8
>cuu boiiffitud by thu

nither wifo, nor chiUl,

i to persuade htm to

t all was of no avail.

le M-ild bees of thuir

luts and fruits of the

ime, ho procured tire

1 the spot. When a

he stopped in, and

thou months elapsed

1 not know what had

he had been so for

even old age itself

)or, harmless, solitary

J reach the largo fall

merely rapids, scarce

in the rainy season j

)arely high enough to

f causing a bubbling,

larance in the stream

till he comes within

I. Each side of the

ige of wood, just as it

ind betwixt the plan-

)e met with here.

there are five habi-

them close to the

le way in the forest.

crrmT HiXmavx.

If

Iti atrongth.

Thnao habitations consist of fro.u Hnir to eight hdJ«,

wiai';,'" ""■ .?""^?' "" "'"'"* ""^ '"-'^ «f K'-""'"!. which
• thoy have cl«ttr,.,l from tho Hurro.nulinK
wocls. A fe>. pappaw, cotton, and mountain cabbuK«-
troos are scatturwl round tliom.

At one of tl.oHe ImbitationH, a smoU quantity of the
w..maii p«i. wourali poison was procun^d. It was in a

that ho had killed a numln^r of wild hog. with it, and
two tapirs. Appearances seomod to confirm what he
said; for on one side it had Um nearly taken out to
the bottom, at different times, which probably would
not have been tho case had the flr«t or second trial
failed.

Its strength was proved on a middle-sized
dog. He was wounded in the thigh, in
order that there might be no possibility of touching a
vital part. In throe or four minutes he began to be
attocted, smelt at every little thing on the ground around
hun, and looked wistfully at the wounded part. Soon
alter this he staggered, laid himself down, and never
rose more. He barked once, though not as if in pain.
His voice was low and weak ; and in a second attempt
It quite failed him. He now put his head betwixt his
ore legs, and, raising it slowly again, he fell over on
ms side. His eye immediately became fixed; and
though his extremities overy now and then shot con-
vulsively, he never showed the least desire t« raise up
his head. His heart iluttored much from the time he
laid down, and at intervals beat very strong; then
stopped for a moment or two, and then beat again; and
contmued faintly beating several minutes after every
other part of his body seemed dead.

nf

18

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

The great fall.

In a quarter of an hour after he had received the
p<M8on ho was quite motionless.

A few miles before you reach the great
fall, and which, indeed, is the only one
which can be called a fall, large balls of froth come
floating past you. The river appears beautifully marked
with streaks of foam, and on your nearer approach the
stream is \/hitened all over.

At first, you behold the fall rushing down a bed of
rocks, with a tremendous noise, divided into two foamy
streams, which, at their junction again, form a small
island covered with wood. Above this island, for a
short space, there appeal's but one stream, all white
with froth, and fretting and boiling amongst the huge
rocks which obstruct its course.

Higher up it is seen dividing itself into a short
channel or two, and trees grow on the rocks which
caused its separation. The torrent, in many places,
has eaten deep , into the rocks, and split them into
large fragments, by driving others against them. The
trees on the rocks are in bloom and vigour, though
their roots are half bared, and many of them bruised
and broken by the rushing waters.

This is the general appearance of the fall from the
level of the water below, to where the river is smooth
and quiet above. It must be remembered, that this
is during the periodical rajns. Probably, in the dry
season, it puts on a very diflferent appearance. There
is no perpendicular fall of water of any consequence
throughout it, but the dreadful roaring and rushing
of the torrent, dovm a long, rocky, and moderat^y
sloping channel, has a fine effect; and the stranger
returns well pleased with what h&has seen. No {mimal,

•^^- itmrnmrnaUnbrnm

[ AHERIOA.

he had received the

you reach the great
led, is the only one
B balls of froth come
irs beautifully marked
r nearer approach the

ushing down a bed of
ivided into two foamy
I again, form a small
)ve this island, for a
tne stream, all white
ing amongst the huge

g itself into a short
on the rocks which
ent, in many places,
and split them into
B against them. The
1 and vigour, though
iiany of them bruised
i.

? of the fall from the
•e the river is smooth
emembered, that this
Probably, in the dry
it appearance. There
ir of any consequence
roaring and rushing
3cky, and moderat^y
ct; and the stranger
has seen. Ko {oiimal,

FIRST JOURNEY.

19

nor craft of any kind, could stem this downward flood
In a few moments the first would be kiUed, the second
dashed m pieces.

The Indians have a path alongside of it, through the
forest, where prodigious crabwood trees grow Up this
path they drag their canoes, and launch them into the
river above ; and, on their return, bring them down the
same way.

About two liours below this fall, is the habitation of

Habitetion *" ^•'^^^y cJiief called Sinkerman. At

Of an Aeoway night you hear the roaring of the fall from

xt. It is pleasantly situated on the top of a
sand-hilJ. At this place you have the finest view the
nver Demerara affords : three tiers of hills rise in slow

a grand and magnificent scene, especially to him who
Has been accustomed to a level country

Here, a little after midnight, on the Ist of May
was heani a most strange and unaccountable noise: S
seemed as though several regiments were engaged, and

terrified beyond description, left their hammocks, and
™ded all together, like sheep at the approach o'f the
wolf Ihere were no soldiers within three or four
hundred miles. Conjecture was of no avail, and all
conversation next morning on the subject was as useless
and unsatisfactory as the dead silence which succeeded
to the noise.

He who wishes to reach the Macoushi country, had
oetter send his canoe over land from Sinkerman's to
the Essequibo.

There is a pretty good path, and, meeting a* creek
about three quarters of the way, ,it eases the labour,

c2

in

;

pp,#^

i -

ii

(I

90

WA^fDEmNG8 IN SOOTH AMERICA.

and twelve Indians will arrive with it in the Esaequibo
in four days.

The tmveller need not attend his canoe • there is a
shorter and a better way. Half an hour below Sinker-
man's he linds a little creek on the western bank of the
Dcmerara. After proceeding ahout a couple of hundred
yards up it, he leaves it, and pursues a west-north-west
direction by land for the Essequibo. The path is good,
though somewhat rugged with the roots of trees, and
here and there obstructed by fallen ones ; it extends
more over level ground than otherwise. There are a
few steep ascents and descents in it, with a little brook
running at the bottom of them ; but they are easily
passed over, and the fallen trees serve for a bridge.

You may reach the Essequibo with ease in a day and
a half; and so matted and interwoven are the tops of
the trees above you, that the sun is not felt once all
the way, saving where the space which a newly fallen
tree occupied lets in his rays upon you. The forest
contains an abundance of wild hogs, lobbas, acouries,
powisses, maams, maroudis, and waracabas, for your
nourishment, and there are plenty of leaves to cover a
shed, whenever you are inclined to sleep.

The soil has three-fourths of sand in it, till you come
witliin half an hour's walk of the Essequibo,
where you find a red gravel and rocks.
In this retired and solitary tract, Nature's garb, to all
appearance, has not been injured by fire, nor her pro-
ductions broken in upon by the exterminating hand
of man.

Here the finest green-heart grows, and waliaba,
purple^heart, siloabali, sawari, buletre, tauronira, and
mora, are met with in vast abundance, far and near,

Tlie Essequibo.

mmmmmmm.,

AMERICA.

I it in the Esaeqtiibo

is canoe; there is a
I hour below Sinker-
western bank of tho
a couple of hundred
.es a west-north-west
1. The path is good,
9 roots of trees, and
on ones; it extends
irwise. There are a
;, with a little brook
but they are easily
rve for a bridge,
th tase in a day and
oven are the tops of

is not felt once all
rhich a newly fallen
)n you. The forest
)g8, lobbas, acouries,
waracabas, for your
of leaves to cover a
I sleep.

1 in it, till you come
alk of the Essequibo,

gravel and rocks.
N^ature's garb, to all
by fire, nor her pro-
exterminating hand

rows, and waliaba,
etre, tauronira, and
lance, far and near,

FIRST JOCRNET.

81

towenng up in majestic grandeur, straight as pillars
sixty or seventy feet high, without a knot or branch.

Traveller, forget for a little while the idea thou host
of wandering further on, and stop and look at this
grand picture of vegetable nature ; it is a reflection of
the crowd thou hast lately been in, and though a silent
monitor, it is not a less eloquent one on that account.—
See that noble purple-heart before thee ! Nature has
been kind to it. Not a" hole, not the least oozing from
its trunk, to show that its best days are passed.
Vigorous in youthful blooming beauty, it stands, the
ornament of these sequestered wilds, and tacitly rebukes
those base ones of thine own species, who have been
hardy enough to deny the existence of Him who
ordered it to flourish here.

Behold that one next to it !-Hark ! how the ham-
merings of the red-headed woodpecker resound thj-ough
Its distempered boughs ! See what a quantity of holes
he has made in it, and how its bark is stained with the
<lrops which trickle down from them ! The lightning
too, has blasted one side of it. Nature looks pale and
wan m its leaves, and her resources are nearly dried up
m Its extremities: its sap is tainted; a mortal sickness,
slow as a consumption, and as sure in its consequences,
has long since entered its frame, vitiating and destroy-
ing the wholesome juices there.

Step a few paces aside, and cast thine eye on that
remnant of a mora behind it. IJest part of its branches
once so high and ornamental, now lie on the ground in
sad confusion, one upon the other, all shattered and
fungus-grown, and a prey to millions of insects, which
are busily employed in destroying them. One branch
of It still looks healthy! Will it recover? No it

32

WANDEBIiiaS IN SOOTH AMERICA.

11

cannot : Nature has already run hor course, and that
healthy-looking branch is only as a fallacious good
symptom in him who is just about to die of a mortifi-
cation, when he feels no more pain and fancies his dis-
temper has loft him ; it is as the momentary gleam
of a wintry sun's ray close to the western horizon.
— See I while we are speaking a gust of wind has
brought the tree to the ground, and made room for its
successor.

Come further on, and examine that apparently
luxuriant tauronira on thy right hand. It boasts a
verdure not its own; they are false ornaments it wears;
the bush-rope and bird-vines have clothed it from the
root to its topmost branch. The succession of fruit
which it hath borne, like good cheer in the houses of
the great, has invited the birds to resort to it, and they
have disseminated beautiful, though destructive, plants
on its branches, which, like the distempers vice brings
into the human frame, rob it of all its health and
vigour ; they have shortened its days, ahd probably in
another year they will finally kill it, long before nature
intended that it should die.

Ere thou leavest this interesting scene, look on the
ground around thee, and see what evei-ything here
below most come to.

Behold that newly-fallen wallaba ! The whirlwind
has uprooted it in its prime, and it has brought down
to the ground a dozen small ones in its fall Its bark
has already begun to drop off! And that heart of
mora close by it is fast yielding, in spite of its firm,
tough texture.

The tree which thou passedst but a little ago, and
which perhaps has laid over yonder brook for years,

1
I
(
{
I
c

8

n

tl

wmmm

•V.

i

AMERICA.

Lor course, and that
s a fallacious good
t to die of a mortiii-
L and fancies bis dis-
0 momentary gleam
lie western horizon,
gust of wind has
d made room for its

ne that appt^rently
hand. It boasts a
ornaments it wears;
clothed it from the

succession of fruit
>er in the houses of
resort to it, and they
ii destructive, plants
itempers vice brings

all its health and
lys, ahd probably in
t, long before nature

i; scene, look on the
lat eveiything here

la! The whirlwind
) has brought down
n its fall Its bark
And that heart of
in spite of its firm,

}ut a little ago, and
ler brook for years,

FIRST JOUIlNKr.

as

can now hardly support itself, and in a few months
more it will have fallen into the water.

Put thy foot on that large trunk thou seest to the
left. It seems entire amid the surrounding fragments
Mere outward appearance, delusive phantom of what it
once was ! Tread on it, and, like the fuss-ball, it will
break into dust.

Sad and silent mementos to the giddy traveller as he
wanders on ! Prostrate remnants of vegetable nature
how incontestably ye prove what we must all at last
come to, and how plain your mouldering ruins show
that the firmest texture avails us nought when Heaven
wills that we should cease to be !—

" The cloud-cjipt towers, the goi^ous palaces,
The Holenin t«mple>, the great globe itself,
Yea, all which it inhabit, shall dissolve,
And, like the baseless fabric of a vision]
Leave not a wreck behind."

Cast thine eye around thee, and see the thousands
of nature's productions. Take a view of them from
the opening seed on the surface, sending a downward
shoot, to the loftiest and the largest trees, rising up
and blooming in wild luxuriance; some side by side,
others separate; some curved and knotty, others straight
as lances; all, in beautiful gradation, fiUliUing the
mandates they had received from Heaven, and though
condemned to die, still never failing to keep ip their
species till time shall be no more.

Reader, canst thou not be induced to dedicate a few

months to the good of the public, and examine with

thy scientific eye the pi-oductions which the vast and

weU-stored colony of Demeraia presents to thee ?

What an immense range of forest is there from the

24

WANDERINOB IN BOUTH AMERICA.

^

Tock Saba to the great fall ! and what an uninterrupted
extent before thee from it to the banks of the Essoquibo !
No doubt, there is many a balsam and many a medicinal
root yet to be discovered, and many a resin, gum, and
oil yet unnoticed. Thy work would be a pleasing one,
and thou mightest make several useful observations
in it. I

Would it be thought impertinent in thee to hazard
a conjecture, that with the resources the government of
Demerara has, stones might be conveyed from the rock
Saba to Stabroek, to stem the equinoctial tides, which
ai* for ever sweeping away the expensive wooden piles
round the mounds of the fort ? Or would the timber-
merchant point at thee in passing by, and call thee a
descendant of La Mancha's knight, because thou main-
tainest that the stones which form the rapids might be
removed with little expense, and thus open the navi-
gation to the wood-cutter from Stabroek to the great
fall? Or wouldst thou be deemed enthusiastic or
biassed, because thou givest it as thy opinion that the
climate in these high lands is exceedingly wholesome,
and the lands themselves capable of nourishing and
maintaining any number of settlers? In thy disserta-
tion on the Indians, thou mightest hint, that possibly
they could be induced to help the new settlers a little;
and that, finding their labours well requited, it \jrould
be the means of their keeping up a constant communi-
cation with us, which probably might be the means of
laying the first stone towards their Christianity. They
are a poor, harmless, inoffensive set of people, and their
wandering and ill-provided way of living seems more
to ask for pity from us, than to fill our heads with
thoughts that they would be hostile to us.

' '•" mTlfTMl

ifXiiimfm

t:^i~''^'i^i>4f/K.\'-fiM^'-^imK*i^»^aL^ -

AMERICA.

bat an uninterrupted
iks of the Essoquibo !
nd many a medicinal
ny a resin, gum, and
Id be a pleasing one,
useful observations

it in thee to hazard
58 the government of
iveyed from the rock
inoctial tides, which
pensive wooden piles
r would the timber-
by, and call thee a
, because thou main-
the rapids might be
thus open the navi-
:abroek to the great
ned enthusiastic or
;hy opinion that the
eedingly wholesome,
) of nourishing and
•8 1 In thy disserta-
t hint, that possibly
new settlers a little ;
U requited, it \jrould
i constant communi-
ght be the means of
Christianity. They
; of people, and their
P living seems more
fill our heads with
B to us.

FIRST JOURNEY.

95

Whnt a noble field, kind render, for thy experimental
philosophy and speculations, for tliy learning, for thy
perseverance, for thy kind-heartedness, for everything
that is great and good within thee I

The accidental traveller who has journeyed on frOm
Stabroek to the rock Saba, and from thence to the
banks of the Essequibo, in pursuit of other things, as
he told thee at the beginning, with but an indifferent
interpreter to talk to, no friend to converse with, and
totally unfit for that which he wishes thee to do, can
merely mark the outlines of the path he has trodden,
or tell thee the sounds he has heard, or faintly describe
what he has seen in the environs of his resting-places ;
but if this be enough to induce thee to undertake the
journey, and give the world a description of it, he will
be amply satisfied.

It will be two days and a half from the time of
entering the path on the western bank of the Demerara
till all be ready, and the canoe fairiy afloat on the
Essequibo. The new "rigging it, and putting every
little thing to rights and in its proper place, cannot
well be done in less than a day.

After being night and day in the forest impervious
to the sun and moon's rays, the sudden transition to
liglit has a fine heart-cheering effect. Welcome as a
lost friend, the solar beam makes the frame rejoice,
and with it a thousand enlivening thoughts rush at
once on the soul, and disperse, as a vapour, every sad
and sorrowful idea, which the deep gloom had helped
to collect there. In coming out of the woods, you see
the westera bank of the Essequibo before you, low and
flat. Here the river is two-thirds as broad as the
Demerara at Stabroek.

mmtmmmtmm

A

26

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA,

To the northward there is a hiU higher than any

Face of the »» the Demorara; and in the south-south-
country. „„„i . .

west quarter a mountain. It ia far away,

and appears like a bluish cloud in the horizon. There'
is not the least opening on either side. Hills, valleys,
and lowlands, are all linked together by a chain'
of forest. Ascend the highest mountain, climb the
loftiest tree, as far as the eye can extend, whichever
way it directs itself, all is luxuriant and unbroken
forest

In about'nine or ten hours from this, you get to an
Indian habitation of three huts, on the point of au
island. It is said that a Dutch post once stood here.

But there is not the smallest vestige of it remaining,
and, except that the trees appear younger than those on
the other islands, which shows that the place has been
cleared some time or other, there is no mark left by
which you can conjecture that ever this was « post.

Uianda. . '^^^ """^ islands which you meet with

in the way, enliven and change the scene,

by the avenues which they make, which look like the

mouths of other rivers, and break that long-extended

sameness which is seen in the Demerara.

Proceeding onwards, you get to the falU and rapids.

Fau. a ^^ *^* ""°^ **'*^° *^®^ "® ^^'^ tedious to
ipidB. ' pass, and often stop your course. In the
dry season, by stepping from rock to rock,
the Indians soon manage to get a canoe over them.
But when the river is swollen, as it was in May, 1812
it is then a diflScult task, and often a dangerous o'ne too!
At that time many of the islands were overflowed, the
rooks covered, and the lower branches of the tretes in
the water. Sometimes the Indians were obliged to

"I

aa-at'arrriiiiii

■ . <,' 1..,.-— ■■ ■■■ > .' ■■•^.^...^^ — -..^ p,.^|j — ^ ^^

-^'inii^>-MllK<n.-3«rfMOSW»rjKMlilM.'.->-^u r^^m-a

[ AHEKICA.

bill higher than any
i in the 8outh>80uth-
ain. It ia far away,
1 the horizon. There
side. Hills, valleys,
)gether by a chain
nountftin, climb the
n extend, whichever
riant and unbroken

1 this, you get to an
on the point of an
ist once stood here,
itige of it remaining,
)unger than those on
t the place has been
is no mark left by
this was « post,
lich you meet with
I change the scene,
irhich look like the
that long-extended
erara.

the &118 and rapids,
are very tedious to
ur course. In the
from rock to rock,
I canoe over them,
was in May, 1812,
; dangerous one too.
ere overflowed, the
hes of the tre'es in
fl were obliged to

HillR.

FIRST JOURNET. ff

take everything out of the canoe, cut a passage through
the branches, which hung over into the river, and then
drag up the canoe by main foi-ce.

At one place, the falls fonn an oblique line quite
across the river, impassable to the ascending canoe, and
you are forced to have it dragged four or live hundred
yards by land.

It will take you five days, from the Indian habitation,
on the point of the island, to where these falls and
rapids terminate.

There are no huts in the way. You must bring
your own cassava bread along with you, hunt ui the
forest for your meat, and make the night's shelter for
yourself.

Here is a noble range of hills, all covered
with the finest trees, rising majestically one
above the other, on the western bank, and presenting
as rich a scene as ever the eye would wish to look on.
Nothing in vegetable nature can be conceivetl more
charming, grand, and luxuriant.

How the heart rejoices in viewing this beautiful
landscape ! when the sky is serene, the air cool, and
the sun just sunk behind the mountain's top.

The hayawa-tree perfumes the woods around ; pairs
of scarlet aras are continually crossing the river. The
maam sends forth its plaintive note, the wren chants
its evening song. The caprimulgus wheels in busy
flight around the canoe, while " Whip-poor- Will " sits
on the broken stump near the water's edge, complaining
as the shades of night set in.

A little before you 'pass the lost of these

rapids, two immense rocks appear, nearly on

the summit of one of the many hills which form this

28

WAXDKRINOS IN SOUTH AMRFIICA.

far-Mteii.linR range, where it begins to full off grmlnally
to the Honth.

They look like two ancient stately towers of sonio
Gothic potentate, roaring their heads aWo the sur-
rounding trees. What with their situation an.l their
shape together, they strike the beholder with an idea
of anti.pinted grandeur wliich he will never forgot
Ho may travel far and near, and see nothing like them
On looking at them through a glass, the summit of the
southern one appeared crowned with bushes. ITie one
to the north was .luite bare. Tho Indians have it trbm
their ancestors, that they are the abode of an evil
genius, and they pass in the river below with a reve-
rential awe.

River A o ^" ^^^^^ *"^^" ^*'"" ^'''"" '"''"^^ Stupen-

ni-pJuA. '"'"■ do"8 sons of the hill, you leave the Essequibo,
and enter the river Apoura-poura, which falls
into It from the south. The Apoura-poura is nearly
one-third the size of the Demerara at Stabroelc For
two days you see nothing but level ground, richly
clothed in timber. You leave the Siparouni to the
right hand, and on the third day come to a little hUl.
The Indians have cleared . Uut an acre of ground on it
and erected a temporary shed. If it be not intended
for provision ground alone, perhaps the next white man
who travels through these remote wilds wUl find an
Indian settlement here.

Two days after leaving this, you get to a rising
ground on the western bank, where stands a single
hut; and about half a mile in the forest there are a
few more ; some of them square, and some round, with
spiral roots.

Here the fish called Pacou is veiy plentiful : it is .

^^iaFilr^l1^■T'^r^7;

AMRRIOA.

8 tofulloffgrmlually

tcly towers of sonio
safls alwvo the sur-
situation and their
holder with an idea
I will never forgot.
I nothing like them.
1, the summit of the
h bushes. ITie one
ndians have it frfcm
I abode of an evil
below with a reve-

frotit tLese stupen-
leave the Essequibo,
a-poura, which falls
ira-poura is nearly
at Stabroelc For
i^ol ground, richly
Siparouni to the
me to a little hill.
3re of ground on it,
it be not intended
ihe next white man
wilds will find an

u get to a rising

•e stands a single

forest there are a

some round, with

7 plentiful : it is .

FinST JODRNET.

29

pbrliiips the fntlcst and most delicious fish in (Juiaua.

It does not take the hook, but the Indians decoy it to

the surface of the water by means of the seeds of the

crabwood tree, and then shoot it with an arrow.
You are now within the borders of MacouHliia, in-
habited by tt different tribe of people, called

indiani."""' Macoushi Indians j uncommonly dexterous
in the use of the blow-pipe, and famous for

their skiU in preparing the deadly vegetable poison,

commonly called Wourali.

It is from this country that those beautiful paroquets,
named Kessi-kessi, are procured. Here the crystal
mountains are found; and hero the throe diiferent
species of the ara are seen in great abundance. Here,
too, grows the tree from which the gum elastic is got :
it is large, and as tall as any in the forest. The wood
has much the appearance of sycamore. The gum is
contained in the bark ; when that is cut through, it
oozes out very freely : it is quite white, and looks as
rich as cream : it hardens almost immediately as it
issues from the tree ; so that it is very easy to collect a
baU, by forming the juice into a globular shape as fast
as it comes out : it becomes nearly black by being
exposed to the air, and is real India rubber without
undergoing any other process.

The elegant crested bird called Cock of the rock,
admirably described by Buffon, is a native of the woody
mountains of Macoushia. In the daytime, it retires
amongst the darkest rocks, and only comes out to feed
a little before sunrise, and at sunset : he is of a gloomy
disposition, and, like the houtou, never associates with
the other birds of the forest.

The Indians, in the just-mentioned settlement, seemed

M^I^«m?«Mf:-¥>»Wfta ««ff ».-«w >

30

WANnEIUNOS IN SOUTH AMRRtCA.

to depend moro on the wournli poison for killing thoir
game, than upon anything else. Thoy had only ono
gun, and it appeared rusty and neglected ; but their
poisoned weajwns were in fine order. Their
i.i(,w.',',i|)e. blow-pipes hung from the roof of the hut,
carefully suspended by a silk grass cord ;
and on taking a nearer view of them, no dust seemed
to have collected there, nor had the sr^-'dor spun the
smallest web on them ; which showed that they were
in constant use. The quivers wore close by tht m, with
the jawbone of the fish Pirai tied by a string to their
brim, and a small wicker-basket of wild cotton, which
Imng down to the centre ; they were nearly full of
jwisonod arrows. It was with difficulty these Indians
could be persuaded to part with any of the wourali
poison, though a good price was offered for it; they
gave to understand that it was powder and shot to
them, and very difficult to be prociired.

On the second day after leaving this settlement, in
passing along, the Indians show you a place where once
a white mon lived. His retiring so far from those of
his own colour and acquaintance seemed to carry some-
thing extraordinary along with it, and raised a desire
to know what could have induced him to do so. It
seems he had been unsuccessful, and that liis creditors
had treated him with as little mercy as the strong
generally show to the weak. Seeing his endeavours
daily frustrated, and his best intentions of no avail,
and fearing that when they had taken all he had, they
would probably take his liberty too, he thought the
world would not bo hard-hearted enough to condemn
him for retiring from the evils wliich pressed so heavily
on him, and which he had done all that an honest man

I
«
1
s
t
I
s

ll

d
n

P

h

n

ti
ci
k

fi

m
ra

tl]
ni

gi"'"; "^TOi' "^ ■ <• r-rmrrv.i .ii|ii

AMRRICA.

Mon for killing thoir

Tlioy had only ono

leglectod ; but thoir

in fino order. Their

the roof of the hut.

■ a silk KHias cord ;

em, no diist seemed

the 8r>''dor spun the

owed that they wore

close by tht n», with

by a string to their

' wild cotton, which

were nearly full of

ficulty these Indians

any of the wouraii

offered for it; they

Mwder and shot to

ired.

I this settlement, in

II a place where once
so far from those of
emed to carry some-
and raised a desire
him to do so. It

d that liis creditors
lercy as the strong
sing his endeavours
sntions of no avail,
en all he had, they
}0, he thought the
mough to condemn
h pressed so heavily
that an honest man

nnsT JouuNRv.

91

could do, to ward off. He left his cro<litors to talk of
him ns they thouKlit tit, and, bidding adieu for ever to
the phco in which ho had once seen bettor times, ho
Jionetratod thus far into these remote and gloomy wilds,
and ended his days 1 1 re.

Lake r«rii„B. -Aw'f r.lipg to the now map of South
America, i.-iko Prtrima, or the "White Sea,
ought to be within three or four days' walk from this
j)lace. On asking the Indians whether there was such a
place or not, and describing that the water was fresli
and good to drink, an old Indian, who appeared to b.,
about sixty, said that there was such a place, and that
he had been there. This information would have been
satisfactory in some degree, had not the Indians carried
the point a little too far. It is very large, said another
Indian, and ships come to it. Now, these unfortunate
ships were the very things which were not wanted : had
he kept them out, it might have done, but his intro-
ducing them was sadly against the lake. Thus you
must either suppose that the old savage and his com-
panion had a confused idea of the thing, and that pro-
bably the Lake Parima they talked of was the Amazons', '
not far from the city of Para, or that it wns their inten-
tion to deceive you. You ought to be cautious in giving
credit to their stories, otherwise you wUl bo apt to be
led astray,

Mony a ridiculous thing concerning the interior of
Guiana has been propagated and received as true,
merely because six or seven Indians, questioned sepa-
rately, have agreed in their najrative.

Ask those Avho live high up in the Demerara, and
they will, every one of them, tell you that there is a
nation of Indians with lorig tlils; that they are very

.11

i

32

VANDEBING8 IN SOUTH AMEUICA.

"1

Anecdote.

malicious, cruel, and ill-natured ; and that the Portu-
guese have been obliged to stop them oflf in a certain
river, to prevent their depredations. They have also
dreadful stories concerning a horrible beast, called the
Watermamma, which, when it happens to take a spite
against a canoe, rises out of the river, and in the most
unrelenting manner possible, can-iea both canoe and
Indians down to the bottom with it, and there destroys
them. Ludicrous extravagances ! pleasing to those fond
of the marvellous, and excellent matter for a distem-
pered brain.

The misinformed and timid court of policy
in Demerara was made the dupe of a savage
who came down the Essequibo, and gave himself out
as king of a mighty tribe. This naked wild man of
the woods seemed to hold the said court in tolerable
contempt, and demanded immense supplies, all which
he got ; and moreover, some time after, an invitation to
come down the ensuing year for more, which he took
care not to forget.

This noisy chieftain boasted so much of his dynasty
and domain, that the Government was induced to send
up an expedition into his territories to see if he had
spoken the truth, and nothing but the truth. It ap-
peared, however, that his palace was nothing but a hut,
the monarch a needy savage, the heir-apparent nothing
to inherit but his father's club and bow and arrows, and
his officers of state wild and uncultivated as the forests
through which they strayed.

There was nothing in the hut of this savage, saving
the presenfci he had received from Government, but
what was barely sufficient to support existence; nothing
that indicated a power to collect a hostile force; nothing

■ -^^■■"■ini'iltffirtriirri."

•;•> ■rwiii

,.^<*-

1

TH AMEUICA.

i ; and that the Portu-
)p them oflf in a certain
itioua. They have also
jrrible beast, called the
iappens to take a spite

river, and in the most
jan-iea both canoe and
ih it, and there destroys

! pleasing to those fond
it matter for a distem-

nd timid court of policy
le the dupe of a savage
, and gave himself out
lis naked wild man of
said court in tolerable
nse supplies, all which
e after, an invitation to
r more, which he took

80 much of his dynasty
nt was induced to send
tories to see if he had
but the truth. It ap-
was nothing but a hut,
3 heir-apparent nothing
nd bow and arrows, and
cultivated as the forests

t of this savage, saving
from Government, but
port existence ; nothing
a hostile force; nothing

FIRST JOURNEY.

98

that showed the least progress towards civilization. AU
was rude and barbarous in the extreme, expressive of
the utmost poverty and a scanty population.

You may travel six or seven days without seeing a
hut, and when you reach a settlement, it seldom con-
tains more than ten.

The further you advance into the interior, the more
you are convinced that it is thinly inhabited.

The day after passing the place where the white man
Kved, you see a creek on the left hand, and shortly
after the path to the open country. Here you drag the
canoe up into the forest, and leave it there. Your
baggage must now be carried by the Indians. The
creek you passed in the river intersects the path to the
next settlement ; a large mora has fallen across it, and
makes an excellent bridge. After walking an hour and
a half, you come to the edge of the forest, and a savanna
unfolds itself to the view.

The finest park that England boasts, falls for short
of this deKghtful scene. There are about two thousand
acres of grass, with here and there a clump of trees, and
a few bushes and single trees, scattered up and down
by the hand of nature. The ground is neither hilly
nor level, but diversified with moderate rises and fijUs,
80 gently running into one another, that the eye cannot
distinguish where they begin nor where they end ;
while the distant black rocks have the appearance of a
herd at rest. Nearly in the middle there is an
eminence, which falls oflf graduaUy on eveiy side; and
on this the Indians have erected their huts.

To the northward of them the forest forms a circle,
ae though it had been done by art ; to the eastward it
hangs in festoons ; and to the south and w«st it rushes

D

"^^"^^S^^^^s^&mum.aaXXZ.iSi

:^mmmms-^.!m^-tsx'm[^missmW'-'--

,M

34

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

in abruptly, disclosing a new scene behind it at every
step as you advance along.

TLis beautiful park of nature is quite surrounded by
lofty hills, all arrayed in superbest garb offerees j some
in the form of pyramids, others like sugar-loaves, tower-
ing one above the other, some rounded off, and others
as though they had lost their apex. Here two hills
rise up in spiral summits, and the wooded line of com-
munication betwixt them sinks so gradually, that it
forms a crescent j and there the ridges of others re-
semble the waves of an agitated sea. Beyond these
tippear others, and others past them ; and others still
farther on, till they can scarcely be distinguished from
the clouds.

There are no sand-flies, nor bSte-rouge, nor mosqnitos,
in this pretty spot The fire-flies, durmg the night,
vie in numbers and brightness with the stars in the
firmament above ; the air is pure, and the north-east
breeze blovre a refreshing gale throughout the day.
Here the white-crested maroudi, which is never found
in the Demerara, is pretty plentiful ; and here- grows
the tree which produces the moran, sometimes called
balsam-capivi.

Your route lies south fix>m this place ; and at the

Bonte fi^MButy of the savanna, you enter the
forest, and journey along a winding path
at the foot of a hilL There is no habitation within
this day's walk. The traveller, as usual, must sleep
in the forest; the path is not so good the follow-
ing day. The hills, over which it lies, are rocky, steei^
and rugged; and the spaces betwixt them swampy, and
mostly knee-deep in water. After eight hours' walk,
you find two or three Indian huts, surrounded by the

1
c

q

a

t]
h
b
ti
n

nc

Ii
afi
mj

th

MM

i«lffaWKi.aM.-.lK».^

AMERICA.

B behind it at every

quite surroTinded by
I garb of trees ; some
e sugar-loaves, tower-
inded off, and others
ex. Here two hills
wooded line of com-
w gradually, that it
ridges of others re-
sea. Seyond these
em ; and others still
e distinguished from

rouge, nor mosqnitos,
8, during the night,
ith the stars in the
I, and the north-east
hroughont the day.
rhich is never found
^ul; and here- grows
Em, sometimes called

is place ; and at the
ana, you enter the
mg a winding path
10 habitation within
ts usual, must sleep
m good the follow-
lies, are rocky, steep,
t them swampy, and
r eight hours' walk,
i, surrounded by the

FIRST JOUBXET.

35

forest; and in little more than half an hour from these,
you come to ten or twelve others, where you pass the
night. They are prettUy situated at the entrance into
a savanna. The eastern and western hills are still
covered with wood ; but on looking to the south-west
quarter, you perceive it begins to die away. In these
forests you may find plenty of the trees which yield the
Bweet-smelling resin called Acaiari, and which, when
pounded and burnt oh charcoal, gives a delightful
fragrance.

From hence you proceed, in a south-west direction,
through a long swampy savanna. Some of the hUIs,
which border on it, have nothing but a thin coarse
grass and huge stones on them ; others quite wooded ;
others with their summits crowned, and their base
quite bare ; and others agiin with their summits bare,
and their base in thickest wood.

Half of this day's march is in water, nearly up to
the knees. There are four creeks to pass : one of them
has a fallen tree across it. You must make your own
bridge across the other three. Probably, were the
truth known, these apparently four creeks are only the
meanders of one.

The Jabiru, the largest bird in Guiana, feeds in the
Thejabiru. T^^^ Mvanna through which you have

just passed. He is wary and shy, and will ,
not allow you to get within gunshot of him.

You sleep this night in the forest, and reach an
Indian settlement about three o'clock the next evening,
after walking one-third of the way through wet and
miry ground.

But bad as the walking is through it, it is easier
than where you cross over the bare hills, where you

D 2

36 WANDERIKOS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

have to tread on sharp stones, most of them lying

Arrow-root

The ground gone over these two last days, seemm con-
demned to perpetual solitude and silence. There was
not one four-footed animal to he seen, nor even the
marks of one. It would have heen as silent as mid-
night, and all as still and unmoved as a monument,
had not the jahiru in the marsh, and a few vultures
soaring over the mountain's top, shown that it was not
quite deserted hy animated nature. There were no
insects, except one kind of fly, ahout one-fourth the
size of the common house-fly. It bit cruelly, and was
much more tormenting than the mosquito on the sea-
coast.

This seems to be the native country of the Arrow-
root. Wherever you passed through a patch
of wood in a low situation, there you found
it growing luxuriantly.

The Indian place you are now at is not the proper
j>lace to have come to, in order to reach the Portuguese
ffirontiers. You have advanced too much to the west-
ward. But there was no alternative. The ground
betwixt you and another small settlement (which was
the right place to have gone to) was overflowed ; and
thus, instedd of proceeding southward, you were obliged
to wind along the foot of the western hills, quite out
of your way.

But the grand landscape this place affords, makes
you ample amends for the time you have spent in
reaching it. It would require great descriptivie powers
to give a proper idea of the situation these people have
chosen for their dwelling.

The hill they are on is steep and high, and full of

f

'wm^ys'r*%mm

AMERICA.

most of them lying

I last days, seemB con-
[ silence. There was
e seen, nor even the
sen as silent as mid-
red as a monument,
, and a few Tultures
hown that it was not
ire. There were no
about one-fourth the
t bit cruelly, and was
mosquito on the sea-

luntry of the Arrow-
issed through a patch
bion, there you found

at is not the proper
reach the Portuguese
o much to the west-
lative. The ground
ettlement (which was
was overflowed ; and
ard, you were obliged
stem hills, quite out

place affords, makes

you have spent in

at descriptivia powers

ion these people have

nd high, and full of

FIRST JOUBNET.

87

immense rocks. The huts are not all in one place, but
dispersed wherever they have found a place level
enough for a lodgement Before you ascend the hill,
you see at intervals an acre or two of wood, then an
open space, with a few huts on it ; then wood again,
and then an open space, and so on; till the inter-
vening of the western hills, higher and steeper still,
and crowded with trees of the loveliest shades, closes
the enchanting scene. '

immenn At the base of this hill stretches an im-
* mense plain, which appears to the eye. on

this elevated spot, as level as a bowling-green. The
mountains on the other side are piled one upon the
other in romantic forms, and gradually retire, till they
are undiscemible from the clouds in which they are
involved. To the south-south-west this far-extending
plain is lost in the horizon. The trees on it, which
look like islands on the ocean, add greatly to the beauty
of the landscape ; while the rivulet's course is marked
out by the seta-trees which follow its meanders.

Not being able to pursue the direct course from
hence to the next Indian habitation, on account of the
floods of water which fall at this time of the year, you
take a circuit westerly along the mountain's foot

At last a large and deep creek stops your progress :

jj^^^ it is wide and rapid, and its banks very
steep. There is neither cuiial nor canoe,
nor purple-heart tree in the neighbourhood to make a
wood skin to carry you over, so that you are obliged to
awim across ; and by the time you have formed a kind
of raft, composed of boughs of trees and coarse grass, to
ferry over your baggage, the day will be too far spent
to think of proceeding. You must be very cautious

38

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

before you venture to swim acroas this creek, for the
alligators are numerous, and near twenty feet long. On
the present occasion, the Indians took uncommon pre-
cautions, lest they should be devoured by this cruel
and voracious reptile. They out long sticks, and ex-
amined closely the side of the creek for half a mile
above and below the place where it was to be crossed •
and as soon as the boldest had swum over, he did the
same on the other side, and then all followed.

After passing the night on the opposite bank, which
is well wooded, it is » brisk walk of nine hours before
you reach four Indian huts, on a rising ground, a few
hundred paces from a little brook, whose banks are
covered over with coucourite and ajta trees.

This is the place you ought to have come to, two
days ago, had the water permitted you. In crossing
the plain at the most advantageous place, you are
above ankle-deep in water for three hours; the re-
mainder of the way is dry, the ground gently risipg.
As the lower parts of this spacious plain put on some-
what the appearance of a lake, during tixe periodical
rains, it is not improbable but that this is the place
which hath given rise to the supposed existence of the
famed Lake Farima, or El Dorado j but this is mere
conjecture.
A few deer are feeding on the coarse rough grass
Deer. °^ *^" far-extending plain ; they keep at a
distance from you, and are continually on
the look-out.

The spur-winged plover, and a species of the curlew,
black, with a white bar across the wings, nearly as
large again as the scarlet curlew on the sea-coast,
frequently rise before you. Here, too, the Moecovy

r

AMERICA.

i this creek, for the
iwenty feet long. On
took uucommon pre-
oured by this cruel
long sticks, and ex-
eek for half a mile
t was to be crossed ;
rum over, he did the
11 followed,
ppoaite bank, which
if nine hours before
rising ground, a few
k, whose banks are
ita trees.

have come to, two
1 you. In crossing
30US place, you are
tree hours; the re*
oand gently risijng.
•• plain put on some*
iring the periodical
at this is the place
ied existence of the
; but this is mere

coarse rough grass
lin J they keep at a
are continually on

«cies of the curlew,

fi wings, nearly as

on the sea-coast,

too, the Moscovy

PIBST JODRNBT.

8»

duck is numerous ; and large flocks of two other kinds
wheel round you as you pass on, but keep out of
gun-shot The milk-white egrets, and jabirus, are dis-
tinguished at a great distance ; and in the ffita and
coucourite trees, you may observe flocks of scarlet and
blue aras feeding on the seeds.

It is to these trees that the largest sort of toucan

The Toucan, "*°''* ^e is remarkable by a large black

spot on the point of his fine yellow bill.

He is very scarce in Demerara, and never seen except

near the searcoast.

The ants' nests have a singular appearance on this

Ante- nests. ^^^'> ^^^y "« "» ^^^ abundance on those
parts of it free from water, and are formed
of an exceedingly hard yellow clay. They rise eight or
ten feet from the ground, in a spiral form, impenetrable
to the rain, and strong enough to defy the severest
tornado.

The wourali poison, procured in these last-mentioned
hnts seemed very good, and proved afterwards to be
very strong.
There are now no more Indian settlements betwixt
you and the Portuguese frontiers. If you
fhStiSr**' wish to visit their fort, it would be advisable
to send an Indian with a letter from hence,
and wait his return. On the present occasion a very
fortunate circumstance occurred. The Portuguese com-
mander had sent some Indians and soldiers to build a
canoe, not far firom this settlement; they had jttst
finished it, and those who did not stay -with, it had
stopped here on their return.

The soldier who commanded the rest said, he durst
not, upon any account, convey a stranger to the fort ;

40

WANDKBmOS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

but he added, as there were two cauoes, one of thorn
might be despatched with a letter, and then we could
proceed slowly on in the other.

About three hours from this settlement, there is a
river called Pirarara; and here the soldiers had left
their canoes while they were making the new on&
From the Pirarara you get into the river Maou, and
then into the Tacalou; and just where the Tocatou
falls into the Bio Branco, there stands the Portuguese
frontier fort, called Fort St Joachun. From the time
of embarking in the river Pirarara, it takes you four
days before you roach this fort.

There was nothing very remarkable in passing down
these rivers. It is an open country, producing a coarse
grass, and interspersed with clumps of trees. The
banks have so'nc) wood on them, but it appears stinted
and crooked, like that on the bleak hills in England.

The tapir frequently plunged into the river ; he was
by no means shy, and it was easy to get a shot at him
on land. The kessi-kessi paroquets were in great
abundance ; and the fine scarlet aras innumerable in
the coucourite trees at a distance from the river's bank.
In the Tacatou was seen the troupiale. It was charm-
ing to hear the sweet and plaintive notes of this pretty
songster of the wilds. The Portuguese call it the
nightingale of Guiana.
Towards tho close of the fourth evening, the canoe^
Hei8a«e ""^^^ ^^ 1^'®®° "^^^ OD with 8 letter, met us
^ttmrnm. ^*^ *^® commander's answer. Daring its
»>«<*•»• absence, the nights had been cold and stormy,
the rain had fallen in torrents, the days cloudy, and
there was no sun to dry the wet hammocks. Ex-
posed thus, day and night, to the chilling blast and

'H AMERICA.

riRBT jouRinir.

14

'0 cauoes, ono of thorn
i«r, and then we could

settlement^ there is a
the soldiers had left
making the new on&
I the river Maon, and
bst where the Tocatou
stands the Portuguese
shim. From the time
rara, it takes you four

kabl<) in passing down
try, producing a coarse
lumps of trees. The
but it appears stinted
!ak hills in England,
into the river ; he was
y to get a shot at him
)quets were in great
b aras innumerable in
from the river's bank,
piale. It was oharm-
re notes of this pretty
ortugnese call it the

th evening, the canoe^
n with a letter, met us
answer. Daring its
been cold and stormy,
the dajrs cloudy, and
wet hammocks. Ex-
he chilling blast and

pelting shower, strength of constitution at last failed,
and a severe fever come on. The commander's answer
was very polite. He remarked, he regretted much to
say, that he had received orders to allow no stranger to
enter the frontier, and this being the case, ho hoped I
would not consider him as uncivil : " However," con-
tinued he, " I have ordered the soldier to land you at a
certain distance from the fort, where we can consult
together."

We had now arrived at the place, and the canoe
which brought the letter returned to the fort, to tell
the commander I had fallen sick.

The sun had not risen above an hour the morning
after, when the Portuguese officer came to the spot
where we had landed the preceding evening. He was
tall and spare, and appeared to be from fifty to fifty-
five years old ; and though thirty years of service
under an equatorial sun had burnt and shrivelled up
his face, still there was something in it so inexpressibly
affable and kind, that it set you immediately at your
ease. He came close up to the hammock, and taking
hold of my wrist to feel the pulse, " I am sorry, sir,"
said he, " to see that the fever has taken such hold of
you. You shall go directly tvith me," continued he,
" to the fort ; and though we have no doctor there, I
trust," added he^ " we shall soon bring you about again.
The orders I have received forbidding the admission of
strangers, were never intended to be put in force against
a sick English gentleman."

As the canoe was proceeding slowly down the river
towards the {art, the commander asked, with much more
interest than a question in ordinary conversntion is
asked, "where was I on the night of the 1st of May 1

mw fe^^jaffl-SMy-wvAiisa;

''^^msgimi

mm

4i

WANDEBINGB IN SOUTH AUBRIOA.

On telling him that I was at an Indian settlement a
little below the great fall in the Demeraro, and that a
•trange and sudden noise had alarmed all the Indians,
he said the same astonishing noise had roused every
man in Fort St Joachim, and that they remaineid under
arms tiU morning. He observed, that he had been
quite at a loss to form any idea what could have caused
the noise ; but now learning that the same noise had
been heard at the same time far eway from the Kio
Branco, it struck him there must have been an earth-
quake somewhere or other.

Good nourishment and rest, and ttie unwearied atten-
tion and kindness of the Poituguew commander, stopped
the progress of the fever, and enabled me to walk about
in six days.

Fort St Joachim ^ is built about five-and-
forty years ago, undar the apprehension, it
is said, that the Spaniards ireve coming from
the Rio Ifegro to settle there. It has been much neg-
lecteil ; the floods of water have carried away the gate,
and destroyed the wall on each side of it ; but the
present commander is putting it into thorough repair.
When finished, it will mount six nine, and six twelve
pounders.

In a straight line with the fort, and within a few
yards of the river, stand the commander's house, the
barracks, the chapel, the father confessor's house, and
two others, all at little intervals from each other ; and
these are the only buildings at Fort St. Joachim. Tho
neighbouring extensive plains afford good pastungo for
a fine breed of cattle, and the Portngueee make enough
of butter and cheese for their own consumption.

On asking the old officer if thsie w'sre each a plao»

Port 8t.
Joachim.

■»Siiiiii> III

B AMERICA.

a Indian settlement a
Demerara, and that a
onned all the Indians,
>ise had lonsad eveiy
t they reinained under
)d, that he had boen
'hat could hare caused
it the same noise had
iT 8 way from the Kio
t have been au earth-

i ^e unwearied atten-
w commander, stopped
bled me to walk about

18 built about five-and-
' the apprehension, it
irds were coming from
!t has been muchneg-
carried away the gate,
1 side of it ; but the
into thorough repair.
: nine, and six twelve

rt, and within a few
mmander's house, the
Bonfessor's house, and
&om each other ; and
»rt 8t. Joachim. The
)rd good pasturage for
rtugueee make enough
a consumption,
isie were such a place

•I mm

FIHST JOUBNET.

48

ni; Lake Parima, or El Dorado, he replied, he looked
.^pon it as I'magiutofy altogether. " I have been above
forty years," added he, " in Portuguese Guiana, but
have neVer yet met with anybody who has seen the
lake."

So much for Lake Parima, or El Dorado, or the
White Sea. Its existence at best seems doubtful ; some
affirm that there is such a place, and others deny it.

" OMinmntioI cerUnt, et adhno fob Judlce Us o»t."

Having now reached the Portuguese inland frontier,

wountupoi- "*d collected a sufficient quantity of the

•""• wourali poison, nothing remains but to give

a brief account of its composition, its effects, its uses,

and its supposed antidotes.

It has been already remarked, that in the extensive
wilds of Demerara and Essequibo, far away from any
European settlement, there is a tribe of Indians who
are known hj the name of Macotishi

Though tht wouraU poiwn is used by all the South
American savages betwixt the Amazons and the Oroo-
noque, still this tribe maken it stronger than any of the
rest. The Indians in the vicinity of the Rio Kegro
are aware of this, and come to the Macoushi country to
purchase it

Much has been said concerning this fatal and extra-
it. effects, f"*^"*^ poison. Some have affirmed that
its effectA are almost instantaneous, provided
the minutest particle of it mixes with the blood ; and
others again have maintained tl»at it is not strong
enough to kill an animal of the size and strength of a
man. The first have erred by lending a too willing ear
to the marvellous, and believing assertions without

44

WANDaaiNas in south ambuica.

I 1

X

mifflclent proof. The following short story points out
the nucoBsity of a cautious examination.

thought the poison would kill a man, he
replied, that they always go to battle with it ; that
he was standing by when an Indian was shot with a
poisoned arrow, and that he expired almost immedi-
ately. Not wishing to dispute this apparently satisfac-
tory information, the subject was dropped. However,
about an hour after, having purposely asked him in
what part of the body the said Indian waa wounded, he
answered without hesitation, that the arrow entered
betwixt his shoulders, and passed quite through hib
heart. Was it the weapon, or the strength of the
poison, that brought an immediate dissolution in this
case t Of course the weapon.

The second have been misled by disappoinment,
oaused by neglect in keeping the poisoned arrows, or
by not knowing how to use them, or by trying inferior
poison. If the arrows are not kept dry, the poison
loses ita strength, and in wet or damp weather it turns
mouldy, and becomes quite soft In shooting an arrow
in this state, upon examining the place where it has
entered, it will be observed that, though the arrow has
penetrated deep into the flesh, still by far the greatest
part of the poison has shrunk back, and thus, instead
of entering with the arrow, it hut remained collected at
the mouth of the wound. In this case the arrow might
as well have not been poisoned. Probably, it was to
this that a geritlemvi, some time ago, owed his disap-
pointment, when he tried the poison on a horse in the
town of Stabroek, the capital of Demerara ; the horse
never betrayed the least symptom of being affected by it

I AMERICA.

Bhort atory points out

nation.

ng an Indian if he

rould kill a man, he

battle with it; that
idion was shot with a
pired almost immedi-
lis apparently satisfac-
I dropped. However,
rposely asked him in
idian waa wounded, he
Eit the arrow entered
led quite through hib

the strength of the
ite dissolution in this

d by disappoinment,

e poisoned arrows, or

, or by trying inferior

kept dry, the poison

lamp weather it turns

In shooting an arrow

le place where it has

though the arrow has

ill by far the greatest

usk, and thus, instead

remained collected at

case the arrow might

Probably, it was to

ago, owed his disap-

ison on a horse in the

Demerara ; the horse

}f being affected by it

rinST .TOCRNBT. 4i

Wishful to obtain thii best information concerning
this poison, and as reported inquiries, in lieu of dissi-
pating the surrounding shade, did but tend more and
more to darken the lit'Je light that existed ; I deter-
mined to penetrate into the country where the poisonous
ingredients grow, whepj this pernicious composition is
prepared, and where it is constantly used. Success
attended the adventure ; and the information acquired
made amends for one hundred and twenty days passed
in the solitudes of Guiana, and afforded a balii to the
wounds and bruises which every traveller musi expect
to receive who wandors thi-ough a thorny and obstructed
path.

Thou must not, courteous reader, expect a disser'a-
tion on the manmir in which the wourali poison ope-
rates on the system; a treatise has been already written
on the subject, and, after all, there is probably still
reason to doubt. It is supposed to affect the nervous
system, and ibxu destroy the vital functions ; it is also
said to be perfectly harmless, provided it does not
touch the blood. However, this is certain, when a suf-
ficient quantity of it enters the blood, death is the
inevitable ( onsequence ; but there is no alteration in
the colour of the blood, and both the blood and flesh
may be eaten with safety.

All that thou wilt find here is a concise, unadorned
account of the wourali poison. It may be of service to
thee some time or other, shouldst thou ever travel
through the wilds where it is used. Neither attribute
to cruelty, nor to a want of feeling for the sufferings
of the inferior animals, the ensuing experiments. The
larger animals were destroyed in order to have proof
positive of the strength of a poison which hath hitherto

iM

46

WANDBBINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

been doubted ; and the smaller ones were killed with
the hope of substantiating that which has commonly
been supposed to be an antidote.

It makes a pitying heart ache to see » poor creature
in distress and pain ; and too often has the compas-
sionate traveller occasion to heave a sigh as he journeys
on. However, here, though the kind-hearted will be
sorry to read of an xmoflfending animal doomed to death,
in order to satisfy a doubt, still it will be a relief to
know that the victim was not tortured. The wourali
poison destroys life's action so gently, that the victim
appears to be in no pain whatever ; and probably, were
the truth known, it feels none, saving the momentary
smart at the time the arrow enters.

A day or two before the Macoushi Indian prepares
his poison, he goes into the forest, in quest of the in-
gredients. A vine grows in these wilds, which is called
wourali. It is from this that the poison takes its name,
and it is the principal ingredient. When he has pro-
cured enough of this, he digs up a root of a very bitter
taste, ties them together, and then looks for about two
kinds of bulbous plants, which contain a green and
glutinous juioe. He fills a Uttle quake, which he
carries on his back, with the stalks of these; and
lastly, ranges up and down till he finds two species of
ants. One of them is very large and black, and so
venomous, that its sting produces a fever ; it is most
commonly to be met with on the ground. The other
is a little red ant, which stings like a nettle, and gene-
rally has its nest under the leaf of a shrub. After
obtaining these, he has no more need to range the
forest.

A quantity of the strongest Indian pepper is used ;

JL

'H AMERICA.

ones were killed with
) which has commonly

I to Bee » poor creature
often has the compas-
e a sigh as he journeys
e kind-hearted will be
limal doomed to death,

it will be a relief to
wrtured. The wourali
^ntly, that the victim
iv ; and probably, were
saving the momentary
rs.

oushi Indian prepares
sst, in quest of the in-
I wilds, which is called
poison takes its name,
t. When he has pro-
a root of a very bitter
m looks for about two

contain a green and
itle quake, which he
stalks of these; and
le finds two species of
le and black, and so
« a fever j it is most
9 ground. The other
ike a nettle, and gene*
f of a shrub. After
e need to range the

dian pepper is used ;

FIRST JODRNBT.

47

J

but this he has already planted round his hut The
pounded fangs of the labarri snake, and those of the
Counacouchi, are likewise added. These he commonly
has m store; for when he kills a snake, he generally
extracts the fangs, and keeps them by him.
Having thus found the necessary ingredients, he

Prepamtion ^^P^^ the wouraU vine and bitter root into
Of the^^ouraii thin shavings, and puts them into a kind of
colander made of leaves : this he holds over
an earthen pot, and pours water on the shavings : the
hquor which comes through has the appearance of
coffee^ When a sufficient quantity has been procured
aie shavings are thro^ra aside. He then bruises the
bulbous stalks, and squeezes a proportionate quantity
of then: juice through his hands into the pot. Lastly
the snake's fangs, ants, and pepper are bruised, and
tiirown into it. It is then placed on a slow fire, and as
It boils, more of the juice of the wourali is added, ac-
cordmg as it may be found necessary, and the scum is
taken off with a leaf: it remains on the fire till reduced
to a thick syrup of a deep brown colour. As soon as it
has arrived at this state a few arrows are poisoned with
it,totryitsctrength. If it answer the expectations, ift
18 poured out into a cahbash, or little pot of Indian
manufacture, which is carefully covered with a couple
of Wes, and over them a piece of deer's skin, tied
round with a cord. They keep it in the most dry part
of the hut; and from time to time suspend it over the
hre, to counteract the effects of dampness.

The act of preparing this poison ^b not considered as
a common one : the savage may shape his bow, fasten
the barb on the point of his arrow, and make his other
implements of destruction, either lying in his hammock,

im

48

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERIOA.

evTl^W?""" «^««ld

or in the midst of his family; but, if he has to prepare

the wourali poison, many precautions are supposed to

be necessaty.
The women and young girls are not allowed to be
present, lest the Yabahou, or evil spirit,
do them harm. The shed under
which it has been boiled, is pronounced
polluted, and abandoned ever after. He who makes
the poison must eat nothing that morning, and must
continue fasting as long as the operation lasts. The
pot in which it is boiled must be a new one, and must
never have held anything before, otherwise the poison
would be deficient in strength : add to this, that the
operator must take particular care not to expose ^im'<
self to the vapour which arises from it while on the
fire.

Though this and other precautions are taken, such as
frequently washing the face and hands, still the Indians
think that it afiects the health ; and the operator either
is, or, what is more probable^ supposes himself to be,
sick for some days after.

indun «n- ^^ i* appears that the making the
parstition. wouiali poison is considered as a gloomy
and mysterious operation ; and it would seem that they
imagine it afiects others as well as him who boils it ;
for an Indian agreed one evening to make some for me,
but the next morning he declined having anything to
do with it, allying that Mb wife was with child 1

Here it might be asked, are all the ingredients just
mentioned necessary, in order to produce the wourali
poison 1 Though our opmions and conjectures may
militate against the absolute necessity of some of them,
still it would be hardly fair to pronounce them added.

• '..-pi^'fg ;i^:e^«a-:^4..*.',;ii»,iai5

[ AMERICA.

t, if he has to prepare
lions are supposed to

re not allowed to be
lahou, or evil spirit,
0. The shed under
loiled, is pronounced
Eter. He who makes
it morning, and must
operation lasts. The
a new one, and must
otherwise the poison
add to this, that the
e not to expose bim*
&om it while on the

ins are taken, such as
uids, still the Indians
id the operator either
jposes himself to be,

Lat the making the
lidered as a gloomy
KTould seem that they
as him who boils it ;
bo make some for me,
i having anything to
ras with child 1
the ingredients just
produce the wouiali
ind conjectures may
nty of some of them,
nnounce them added

I

FIRST JOCRNBr.

49

by the hand of superstition, till proof positive can bo
obtained.

We might argue on the subject, and by bringing
forward instances of Indian superstition, draw our
conclusion by inference, and still remain in doubt on
this head. You know superstition to be the offspring
of ignorance, and of course that it takes up its abode
amongst the rudest tribes of iincivilized man. It even
too often resides with man in his more en%htened
state.

The Augustan age famishes numerous examples. A
bone snatched from the jaws of a fasting bitch, and a
feather horn the wing of a night owl—" ossa ab ore
rapta jejunee canis, plumamque noctum® strigis," — were
necessary for Canidia's incantations. And in aftertimes,
parson Evans, the Welshman, was treated most luigen-
teelly by an enraged spirit, solely because he had for-
gotten a riiK. .atlon in his witch-work.

If, the.' t i i 'tened man lets his better sense give
way, and ' -r or allows himself to be persuaded,
that certaL. ;,awstances and actions, in reality of no '
avail, possess a virtue which renders them useful in
producing the wished-for effect ; may not the wild, ua-
taught, unenlightened savage of Guiana, add an ingre.
dient which, on account of the harm it does him, he
fancies may be useful to the perfection of his poison,
though, in taai, it be of no use at all 1 If a bone
saatched from the jaws of a feeting bitch be thought
necessary in incantation ; or if witchcraft have recourse
to the raiment of the owl, because it resorts to the
tombs and mausoleums of the dead, and wails and
hovMS about at the time that the rest of animated
nature sleeps ; certainly the savage may imagine that

iiMH

■Hi

60

WANDERINGS IN SOUTfi AMERICA.

the ants, whose sting causes a fever, and the teeth of
the Labarri and Counacoachi snakes, which convey
death in a very short space of time, are essentially
necessary in the composition of his poison ; and being
once impressed with this idea, he will add them every
time he makes the poison, and transmit the absolute use
of them to his posterity. The question to be answered
seema not to be, if it is natural for the Indians to
mix these ingredients, but, if they are essential to
make the poison.

So much for the preparing of this vegetable essence ;
terrible importer of death, into whatever animal it
enters. Let us now see how it is used ; let us examine
the weapons which bear it to its destination, and take
a view of the poor victim, from the time he receives
his wound, till death comes to his relief.

When a native of Macoushia goes in quest
of the blow- of feathered game or other birds, he seldom
^ ^' carries his bow and arrows. It is the blow-

pipe he then uses. This extraordinary tube of death
is, perhaps, one of the greatest natural curiosities of
Guiana. It is not found in the country of the MacoushL
Those Indians tell you that it grows to the south-west
of them, in the wilds which extend betwixt themi and
the Eio iN^egro. The reed must grow to an amazing
length, as the part the Indians use is from ten, to eleven
feet long, and no tapering can be perceived in ,it, one
end being as thick as the other. It is of a bright yellow
colour, perfectly smooth both inside and obi It grows
hollow ; nor is there the least appearabce of a knot or
joint throughout the whole extent The natives call it
Ourah. This, of itself is too (lender to answer the end
of a blow-pipe ; but there is a species of palma, laiger

a
]

0

a

0

is
w

fo
Pl

CO

is
se(
mi
pu
wi
wii

n

pal

poi

poi

mal

abo

pra«

larg

off

thre

the

Thai

cont
twel

f

AMERICA.

rer, and the teeth of
nakes, which convey
time, are essentially
is poison ; and being
will add them every
ismit the absolute use
istion to be answered
[ for the Indians to
hey are essential to

is vegetable essence ;
whatever animal it
ised ; let us examine
destination, and take
the time he receives
relief.

coushia goes in quest
;her birds, he seldom
ows. It is the blow-
linary tube of death
latural curiosities of
atry of the MacoushL
ws to the south-west
id betwixt themi and
grow to an amazing
is from ten, to eleven
perceived iU ,it, one
i is of a bright yellow
9 and obi It grows
sarailce of a knot or
The natives call it
er to answer the end
icies of palma, laiger

ClRflT JOUaNKT.

51

and stronger, and common in Guiana, and this the
Indians make use of as a case, in which they put the
ouraL It is brown, susceptible of a fine poliJh, and
appears ^ if it had joints five or six incheslm Zt
other It IS called Samourah, and the pulp inside

ir ' ^^ '^^'°^ ^* ^'' " ^'^^ ^*y» ^

f "^Z *M """^ """^ ^^ov^y^, one within the other,
form he blow-pipe of Guiana. The end which is ap!
phed to the mouth is tied round with a smaU silk-gra^
cord, to prevent its splitting ; and the other end, wS
IS apt to Stake against the ground, is secured by the
seed of the acuero fruit, cut horizonteUy through the

pat the extremity of the blow-pipe. It is fastened on
with stnng on the outeide. and the inside is fiUed up
with wild bees'-wax. ^,

The imow. _ '^^ arrowis from nine to ten inches long
It IS made out of the leaf of a species of
palm-taree, caUed Coucourite. hard and briSe, a^d
pointed as sharp as a needle. About an inch of the
pomted end is poisoned. The other end is burnt to
inake it stiU harder, and wUd cotton is put round it for
about an inch and a hal£ It requires considerable
practice to put on this cotton welL It must just be
We enough to tit the hoUow of the tube, Jd taper
off to nothing downwards. They tie it on with a
^ of the silk-grass, to prevent ite slipping off
the arrow. '^'^ **

nieqiuver. ^® Indians have shown ingenuity in

making a quiver to hold the arrows. It will

contain from five to six hundred. It is generaUy from

twelve to fourteen inches long, and in shape resembles

112

m

M

WANDKRINGB IN SOUTH AMBRICA.

i«

a dice-box used at backgammon. The inside is prettily
done in basket work, with wood not unlike bamboo,
and the outside has a coat of wax. The eover is all
of one piece, formed out of the skin of the tapir.
Bound the centre there is fastened a loop, large
enough to admit the arm and shoulder, from which it
hangs when used. To the rim is tied a little bunch
of (i^k-grass, and half of the jaw-bone of the fish called
pirai, with which the Indian scrapes the point of his
arrow.

Before he puts the arrows into the quiver, he links
them together by two strings of cotton, one string at
each end, and then folds them round a stick, which is
nearly the length of the quiver. The end of the stick,
which is uppermost, is guarded by two little pieces
of wood crosswise, with a hoop round their extre-
mities, which appears something like a wheel ; and
this saves the lund from being wounded when the
quiver is reversed, in order to let the bunch of arrows
drop out.

There is also attached to the quiver a little kind of
basket, to hold the wild cotton which is put on the
blunt 'end of the arrow. With a quiver of poisoned
arrows slung over his shoulder, and with his blow-pipe
in his hand, in the same position as a soldier carries his
musket, see the Macoushi Indian advancing towards
the forest in quest of powises, maroudis, waracabas,
and other feathered game.

These generally sit high up in the tall and tufted

trees, but still are not out of the Indian's

In putsuit of reach ; for his blow-pipe, at its greatest

8 game. elcvation, will send an arrow three hundred

feet. Silent as n^dnight he steals under them, and so

••^.

ra AUBRIOA.

The inside is prettily
td not unlike bamboo,
ifox. The cover is all
he skin of the tapir,
astened a loop, large
ihoulder, from which it
ia tied a little bunch
r-bone of the fish called
crapes the point of his

ito the quiver, he links
if cotton, one string at
round a stick, which is
The end of the stick,
d by two little pieces
op round their extre-
Dg like a wheel; and
ig wounded when the
et the bunch of arrows

quiver a little kind of
a. which is put on the
b a quiver of poisoned
and with his blow-pipe
a as a soldier carries his
lian advancing towards
I, maroudis, waracabas,

in the tall and tufted
lot out of the Indian's
r-pipe, at its greatest
m arrow three hundred
lals Tinder them, and so

FIRST JOUBNET. I^f^

cautiously does he tread the ground that the fallen leaves
rustle not beneath his feet. His ears are open to the
least sound, while his eye, keen as that of the lynx, is
employed in finding out the game in the thickest shade.
Often he imitates their cry, and decoys them from tree
to tree, till they are within range of his tube. Then
taking a poisoned arrow from his -"iver, he puts it
in the blow-pipe, and colli ^ his ii for the fatal

puff.

About two feet from the end through which he
blows, there are fastened two teeth of the acouri, and
these serve him for a sight. Silent and swift the
arrow flies, and seldom fails to pierce the object at
which it is sent. Sometimes the wounded bird remains
in the same tree where it was shot, and in three
minutes falls down at the Indian's feet Should he
take whig, his flight is of short duration, and the
Indian, following the direction he has gone, is sure to
find him dead.

It is natural to imagine that, when a slight wound
only ia inflicted, the game will make its escape. Far
Efftcta of otherwise ; the wourali poison almost in-
the wmlted stantaneously mixes with blood or water,
'""'• so that if you wet your finger, and di^h it

along the poisoned arrow in the qnirkeet manner pos-
sible, you are sure to carry iue of the poison.
Though three minutes generaUy elapse before the con-
vulsions come on in the wounded bird, still a stnpop
evidently takes place sooner, and this stupor manifests
itself by an apparent unwillingness in the bird to move.
This was very visible in a dying fowl

Havmg procured a hoaitby full-grown one, a short
piece of a poisoned blo^7-pipe arrow was broken off and

s.

mm

64

rANDEKINOB IN SOUTH AMERICA.

run up Into ita thigh, aa near as possible betwixt the
skin and the flesh, in order that it might not be ia-
oonimoded by the wound. For the first minute it
walked about, b:tt walked very slowly, and did not
appear the k_.t agitated. During the second minute it
stood still, and began to peck the ground ; and ere half
another had elapsed, it frequently opened and shut its
mouth. The tail had now dropped, and the wings
almost touched the ground. By the termination of
the third minute it had sat down, scarce able to support
its head, which nodded, and thin recovered itself, and
then nodded again, lower and lower every time, like
that of a weary traveller slumbering in an erect posi-
tion ; the eyes alternately open and shut The fourth
minute brought on convulsions, and life and the fifth
terminated together.

The flesh of the g^me is not in the least injured by
the poison, nor does it appear to corrupt sooner than
that killed by the gun or knife. The body of this fowl
was kept for sixteen hours, in a climate damp and rainy,
and within seven degrees of the equator ; at the end of
whioV '.me it had contracted no bad smell whatever,
and .. -e were no symptoms of putrefaction, saving
that, just round tho wound, the fiesh appeared some-
-yrhat discoloured. •

. The Indian, on his return home, carefully suspends
his blow-pipe from the top of his spiral roof; seldom
placing it in an oblique position, lest it should receive a
cast.

. Here let the blow-pipe remain suspended, while you
take a view of the arms which are made to slay the
laiger beasts of the forest.

When the Indian intends to chase the peccari, or

a^mm

mk

WjWMJBJWBMWW

rn AMERICA.

la possible betwixt the
it it might not be ia-
r>r the first minute it
y slowly, and did not
ig the second minute it
e ground ; and ere half
ly opened and shut its
opped, and the wings
By the termination of
1, scarce able to support
m recovered itself, and
lower every time, like
ering in an erect posi-
ond shut. The fourth
ftud life and the fifth

in the least injured by
to corrupt sooner than
The body of this fowl
limote damp and rainy,
equator ; at the end of
10 bad smell whatever,
»f putrefaction, saving
> fiesh appeared some-

>me, carefully suspends
lis spiral roof ; seldom
leet it should receive a

suspended, while you
. ate made to slay the

' chase the peccari, or

rinST JOURNET.

88

surprise the deer, or rouse the tapir from his marshy

retreat, he carries his bow and arrows, which are very

fUfferent from the weapons already described.

The bow is generally from six to seven feet long,

Tiie bow *"*^ strung with a cord spun out of the

«.mi for the silk-grass. The forests of Guiana furnish

ithoao.

Arrows.

many species of hard wood, tough and
elastic, out of which beautiful and excellent bows are
formed.

The arrows are from four to five feet in
length, made of a yellow reed without a
knot or joint It is found in great plenty up and
down throughout Guiana. A piece of hard wood,
about nine inches long, is inserted into :he end of the
reed, and fastened with cotton well waxed. A square
hole, an inch deep, is then made in the end of this
piece of hard wood, done tight round with cotton to
keep it from splitting. Into this square hole is fitted
a spike of Coucourite wood, poisoned, and which may*
be kept there or taken out at pleasure. A joint of
bamboo, about as thick as your finger, is fitted on
over the poisoned spike, to prevent accidents and
defend it from the rain, and is taken off when the
arrow is about to be used. Lastly, two feathers are
fastened on the other end of the reed, to steady it in
its flight.

Besides his bow and arrows, the Indian carries a
little box, made of bamboo, which holds a dozen or
fifteen poisoned spikes, six inches long. They are

Spikei. PO"oned in the following manner : — ^A small

piece of wood is dipped in the poison, and

with this they give the spike a first coat. It is then

exposed to the sun or fire. After it is dry, it receives

MMH

I

r>

m

WANDEBINOS IK DOUTH AMERICA.

Ar other coat, and is then dried again ; after this a third
coat, and sometimes a fourth.

They take great care to put the poison on thicker
at tlie middle than at the sides, by wliich means the
spike retains the shape of a two-edged sword. It
is rather a tedions operation to make one of these
arrows complete ; and as the Indian is not famed for
industry, except when pressed by hunger, he has hit
upon a plan of preserving his arrows which deserves
notice.

Al)out a quarter of an inch above the part where the
Coucourito spike is fixed into the square hole, he cuts
it half through; and thus, when it has entered the
animal, the weight of the arrow causes it to break off
there, by which means the arrow falls to the ground
uninjured ; so that, should this be the only arrow he
happens to have with him, and should another shot,
immediately occur, he has only to take another poisoned
spike out of his little bamboo box, fit it on his arrow,
and send it to its destination.

Thus armed with deadly poison, and hungry as the
liyeena, he ranges through the forest in quest of the
•wild beasts' track. No hound can act a surer part.
Without clothes to fetter him, or shoes to bind his feet^
he observes the footsteps of the game, where an Euro-
pean eye could not diucem the smallest vestige. He
pursues it through all its turns and windings with
astonishing perseverance, and anooetn generally crowns
his efforts. The animal, after reoei^ring the p<H)goned
Arrow, seldom retreats two hundred paces before it
drops.

In passing overland from the Essequibo to the
Demeraira, we fell in with a herd of wild hogs. Though

rn AMERICA.

gain ; after this a third

the poison on thicker
I, by which means the
two-edged sword. It

0 make one of these
ndiau is not famed for
by hunger, he has hit
arrows which deserves

ore the part where the
le square hole, he cuts
en it has entered the
' causes it to break off
m falls to the ground
be the only arrow he

1 should another shot
) take another poisoned
)X, fit it on his arrow,

on, and hungry as the
forest in quest of the
can act a surer part.
* shoes to bind his feet^
game, where an Euro-
smallest vestige. He
18 and 'windings with
osetB generally crowns
'ecei^Hng the poisoned
ndred paces before it

be Essequibo to the
of wild hogs. Though

riRST JOURXET.

07

oncumberetl with baggage, and fatigued with a hard
day's walk, an Indian got his bow ready, and let
ily a poisoned arrow at one of them. It
iiog.'" * ""'' entered the cheek-bone, and broke off. The
wild hog was found quite dead about one
hundred nnrl seventy paces from the place where he had
been shot Ue afforded us an excellent and wholesome
supper.

Thus the savage of Guiana, independent of the com-
mon weapons of destruction, has it in his power to
prepare a poison, by which he can generally ensure to
himself a .".upply of animal food ; and the food so de-
stroyed imbibes no deleterious qualities. Nature has
been bountiful to him. ^he has not only ordered
lK)isonouB herbs and roots to grow in the unbounded
forests through which he strays, but has also furnished
an oxoellent reed for his aiTows, and another, still more
singular, for his blow-pipe; and planted trees of an
amazing hard, tough, and elastic texture, out of which
he forms his bows. And in order that nothii-.g might
be wanting, she has suj^eradded a tree which yields him
a fine wax, and disseminated up and down a plant not
unlike that of the pine-apple, which affords him capital
bow-strings.

Having now followed the Indian in the chase, and
described the poison, let us take a nearer view of its
action, and observe a large animal expiring under the
weight of its baneful virulence.

Many have doubted the strength of the wourali
poisob. Should they ever by chance read what follows,
probably their doubts on that score will be settled
for ever.

In the former experiment on the hog, some faint

mm

aSBU

58

WANDRHINOa IN ScJUTH AHBRICA.

't

II [

resistance on the part of nntiiro wiw ol)«orve(l, as if
FiirtiiPr r«- existence Htrngulod forsiipirioritv: but in the

mttko on llii< f 11 . . . « ,

viniiiiiice of loUowinp instance of the sloth, life sanic in
death without tlie least a|)parent contention,
without a cry, without a struggle, and without a groan.
This was an Ai, or three-toed eloth. It was in the
possession of a gentleman who was collecting curiosities.
He wished to have it killed, in order to preserve the
skin, and the wourali poison was resorted to as the
easiest death.

Of all animals, not even the toad and tortoise ex-
cepted, this poor ill-formed creature is the most tena-
cious of life. It exists long after it has received
wounds which would have destroyed any other animal ;
and it may be said, on seeing a mortally wounded
sloth, that life disputes with death every inch of flesh
in its body.

The Ai was wounded in the leg, and put down on
the floor, obout two feet from the table ; it contrived
to reach the leg of the toble, and fastened itHolf on it,
as if wishful to ascend. But this was its lost advancing
step : life was ebbing fast, though imperceptibly ; nor
could this singular production of nature, which has
been formed of a texture to resist death in a thousand
shapes, make any stand against the wourali poison.

First, one fore-leg let go its hold, ond dropped down
motionless by its side ; the other gradually did the
same. The fore-legs having now lost strength, the sloth
slowly doubled its body, and placed its head betwixt
its hind legs, which still adhered to the table; but
when the poison had affected these also, it sank to the
ground, but sank so gently, that you could not distin-
guish the movement from an ordinary motion; and had

!I AHKRtCA.

3 wiw olworved, as if
su|)irii)rity; but in the
blie sloth, life Hunk in
'i apparent contention,
and without a groan,
loth. It wa8 in the
I collecting curiosities,
inlor to preserve the
i» resorted to as the

toad and tortoise ex-
ure is the most tena-
["tor it has received
ed any other animal ;
a mortally wounded
ih every inch of flesh

ig, and put down on

0 table ; it contrived
fastened itBolf on it,

vas its lost advancing

1 imperceptibly ; nor
f nature, which has

death in a thousand
9 wonrali i)()i8on,
1, and dropped down
w gradually did the
•St strength, the sloth
ied its head betwixt
1 to the table; but
) also, it sank to the
y^ou could not distin-
lary motion; and had

yiMT JOORNET.

d»

you been ignorant that it was wounded with a poisone.1
arrow, you would never have suspected that it won
dying. Its mouth was shut, nor had any froth or
saliva collected there.

There was no subsultus tendinum, or any visible
alteration in its breathing. During the tenth niinute
from the time it was wounded it stirred, ami that was
all ; and the minute after, life's lust spark wont out.
From the time the poison began to operate, you would
have conjectured that sleep was overpowering it, and
you would have exclaimed, " Pressitque jacentem, dulcis
et alta quios, placid«3(iue simillima luorti."

There are now two positive proots of the effect of
this fatal poison : viz. the death of the hog, and that
of the sloth. But stUl these animals were nothing
remarkable for size ; and the strength of the poison in
large animals might yet bo doubted, wore it not for
what follows.

A largo well-fed ox, from nine hundred
u^Z'ox"' *o a thousand pounds' weighty was tied to
a stake by a rope sufficiently long to allow
him to move to and fro. Having ao largo Coucourite
spikes at hand, it was judged necessary, on account of
his superior size, to put throe wild-hog arrows into him.
One was sent into each thigh just above the hock, in
order to avoid wounding a vital part, and the third was
shot transversely into the extremity of the nostril.

The poison seemed to take ellect in four minutes.
Conscious as though he would fall, the ox set himself
firmly on his legs, and remained quite still in the same
place, till about the fourteenth minute, when he smellcd
the ground, and appeared as if inclined to walk. Ho
advanced a pace or two, staggered, and fell, and re- •

Wl- -L(l>il

CO

WANDEIIIXOS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

if

i

m£iined extended on his side, with his head on the
ground. His eye, a few minutes ago so bright and
lively, now became fixed and dim ; and though you put
your hand close to it, as if to give him a blow there, he
never closed his eyelid.

His legs were convulsed, and his head from time to
time started involuntarily j but he never showed the
least desire to raise it from the ground ; he breathed
hard, and emitted foam from his mouth. The startings,
or subsultus tendinum, now became gradually weaker
and weaker j his hinder parts were fixed in death ; and
in a minute or two more his head and fore-lega ceased
to stir.

Nothing now remained to show that life wag still
within him, except that his heart faintJy beat and
fluttered at intervals. In five-and-twenty minutes from
the time of his being wounded, he was quite dead. Hie
flesh was very sweet and savoury at dinner.

On taking a retrospective view of the two
sen-atiJM.'*** different kinds of poisoned arrows, and the
animals destroyed by them, it would appear
that the quantity of poison must be proportioned to the
animal ; and thus those probably labour under an error
who imagine that the smallest particle of it introduced
into the blood has almost instantaneous eflects.

Make an estimate of the di£ference in size betwixt
the fijwl and the ox, and then weigh a sufficient
quantity of poison for a blow-pipe arrow, with which
the fowl was killed, and weigh also enough* poison for
three wild-hog arrows, which destroyed the ox, and it
will appear that tlio fowl received much more poison in
proportion than the ox. Hence the cause why the fowl
died in five minutos, and the ox in fivei-and-twenty.

#

TH AMERICA.

with his head on the
ites ago 80 bright and
m ; and though you pat
ve him a blow there, he

[ his head from time to
t he never whowed the
e ground ; he breathed
I mouth. The startings,
icame gradually weaker
ere fixed in death ; and
tad and fore-legs ceased

how that life was still
[leart faintJy beat and
id-twenty minutes from
le was quite dead. His
y at dinner,
pective view of the two
>i8oned arrows, and the

them, it would appear
; be proportioned to the
y labour under an error
particle of it introduced
itaneous effects,
ference in size betwixt
len weigh a sufficient
pipe arrow, with which

also enough* poison for
estroyed the ox, and it
)d much more poison in

the cause why the fowl
: in fivet-and-twenty.

FIRST JODRKET.

61

Indeed, were it the case that the smallest particle of
it introduced into the blood has almost instantaneous
effects, the Indian would not find it necessary to make
the large arrow ; that of the blow-pipe is much easier
made, and requires less poison.

And now for the antidotes, or rather the supposed
antidotes. The Indians tell you, that if the

Antidoteg. i i > J ^

wounded ammal be held for a considerable
time up to the mouth in water, the poison will not
prove fatal ; also that the juice of the sugar-cane,
poured down the throat, will counteract the effects of
it. These antidotes were fairly tiied upon full-grown
healthy fowls, but they all died, as though no steps
had been tak%n to preserve their lives. Rum was
recommended, and given to another, but with as little
success.

It is supposed by some, that wind introduced into
the lungs by means of a small pair of bellows, would
revive the poisoned patient, provided the operation be
continued for a sufficient length of time. It may be
so : but this is a difficult and a tedious mode of cure,
and he who is wounded in the forest, far away from his
friends, or in the hut of the savages, stands but a poor
chance of being saved by it.

Had the Indians a sure antidote, it is likely they
would carry it about with them, or resort to it
immediately after being wounded, if at hand; and
their confidence in its efficacy would greatly diminish
the horror they betray when you point a poisoned
arrow at tbem.

One day while we were eating a red monkey,
erroneously -called a baboon, in Demerara, an Arowack
Indian told ah affecting 8toi;y of what happened to a

"JUJJSSMam

62

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

Anecdote.

comrade of his. He was present at his death. As it
did not interest this Indian in any point to tell a false-
hood, it is very probable that his account was a true one.
If 80, it appears that there is no certain antidote, or, at
least, an antidote that could be resorted to in a case of
urgent need ; for the Indian gave up all thoughts of
life as soon as he Was wounded.

The Arowack Indian said it was but four
years ago, that he and his companion were
ranging in the forest in quest of game. His companion
took a poisoned arrow, and sent it at a red monkey in
a tree above him. It was nearly a perpendicular shot.
The arrow missed the monkey, and, in the descent,
struck him in the arm, a little above the elbow. He
was convinced it was all over with him. " I shall
never," said he to his companion, in a faltering voice,
and looking at his bow as he said it, " I shall never,"
said he, « bend this bow again." And having said
that, he took oflf his little bamboo poison box, which
hung across his shoulder, and putting it together with
his bow and arrows on the ground, he laid himself down
close by them, bid his companion farewell, and never
spoke more.

He who is unfortunate enough to be wounded by a
poisoned arrow from Macoushia, had better not depend
upon the common antidotes for a cure. Many who
have been in Guiana will recommend immediate immer-
sion in water, or to take the juice of the sugar-cane, op
to fill the mouth fiill of salt ; and they recommend these
antidotes, because they have got them from the Indians.
But were you to ask them if they ever saw these an-
tidotes used with success, it is ten to one their answer
would be in the negative.

#

I AMERICA.

i at his deatb. As it
ly point to tell a false-
iccount was a true one.
certain antidote, or, at
isorted to in a case of
re up all thoughts of

n said it was but four
i his companion were
;ame. His companion
it at a red monkey in
a perpendicular shot,
and, in the descent,
30ve the elbow. He
rith. him. "I shall
, in a faltering voice,

it, " I shall never,"
' And having said
o poison box, which
ting it together with
he laid himself down

farewell, and never

to be wounded by a
ad better not depend
% cure. Many who
id immediate immer-
)f the sugar-cane, or
ley recommend these
3m from the Indians,
ever saw these an-
to one their answer

FIRST JOURNBY.

6S

g^

Wherefore let him reject these antidotes as unprofit-
able, and of no avail. He has got an active and a
deadly foe within him, which, like Sh-ikspeare's
fell Sergeant Death, is strict in his arrest, and will
allow him but little time— very— very Httle time. In
a few minutes he will be numbered with the dead.
Life ought, if possible, to be preserved, be the expense'
ever so great. Should the part affected admit of it, let
a Ugature be tied tight round the wound, and have
immediate recourse to the knife :

" Contlnuo, oulpam ferro compeitce priiuqnam,
Dira per infaustuin serjjant coutagia corpus."

And now, kind reader, it is time to bid thee farewell.
The two ends proposed have been obtained. The Por-
tuguese inland ri mtier fort has been reached, and the
Macoushi wourali poison acquired. The account of this
excursion through the interior of Guiana has been sub-
mitted to thy perusal, in order to induce thy abler
genius to undertake a more extensive one. If any diffi-
culties have arisen, or fevers come an, they have been
caused fay the periodical rains, which fall in torrents,
as the sun approaches the tropic of Cancer. In dry
weather there would be no difficulties or sickness.

Amongst the many satisfactory conclusions which
thou wouldst be able to draw during the journey,
there is one which, perhaps, would please thee not a
Uttle ; and that is, with regard to dogs. Many a time,
no doubt, thou hast heard it hotly disputed, that dogs
existed in Guiana previous to the arrival of the Spaniards
in those parts. Whatever the Spaniards introduced,
and which bore no resemblance to anything the Indians
had been accustomed to see, retains its Spanish name
to this day.

liMi

d4

WANDERIKGB IN BOnTH AMERICA.

Thus the Warrow, the Arowack, the Acoway, the
MacouBhi, and Carih tribes, call a hat, sombrero ; a
shirt, or any kind of cloth, camipi; a shoe, zapato;
a letter, carta ; a fowl, gallina ; ^ inpowder, colvora
(Spimish, polvora); ammunition, b !a; a cow, vaca;
and a dog, perro.

This argues strongly against the < istence of dogs in
Guiana, before it was discovered by o Spaniards, and
probably may be of use to thee, in thy next canine

dispute.

In a political point of view, this country

^°""'"' presents a large field for speculation. A few
years ago, there was but little inducement for any
Englishman to explore the interior of these rich and
fine colonies, as the British Government did not con-
sider them worth holding at the peace of Amiens.
Since that period their mother country has been blotted
out from the list of nations, and America has unfolded
a new sheet of politics. On one side, the crown of
Braganza, attacked by an ambitious chieftain, has fled
from the palace of its ancestors, and now seems fixed
on the banks of the Janeiro. Cayenne has yielded to
its arms. La Plata has raised the standard of indepen-
dence, and thinks itself sufficiently strong to obtain
a (Government of its own. On the other side, the
Caraccas are in open revolt ; and should Santa F^
join them in good earnest, they may form a powerful
association.

Thus, on each side of ci-devant Dutch Guiana, most
tinexpected and astonishing changes have taken place.
Will they raise or lower it in the scale of estimation at
the Court of St. James's » Will they be of benefit- to
these grand and extensive colonies t Colwiies enjoy*

m

H AMERICA.

rack, the Acoway, the
1 a hat, sombrero; a
tnie^; a shoe, zapato;
; gmpowder, colvora
., h la; a cow, vaca;

be ( istence of dogs in
by g Spaniards, and
9, ill thy next canine

b of view, this country
or speculation. A few
I inducement for any
rior of these rich and
emment did not con-
;he peace of Amiens,
luntry has been blotted
America has unfolded
le side, the crown of
ous chieftain, has fled
^ and now seems fixed
Cayenne has yielded to
e standard of indepen-
itly strong to obtain
u the other side, the
and should Santa F^
may form a powerful

it Dutch Guiana, most
iges have taken place.
3 scale of estimation at
1 they be of benefit- to
lies? ColMiies enjoy*

"-^^

FIRST JOURNEY.

69>

ing perpetual summer. Colonies of the richest soil.
Colonies containing within themselves everything ne-
cessary for their support. Colonies, in fine, so varied
in their quality and situation, as to be ^able of
bringing to perfection every tropical production ; and
only wanting the support of Government, and an en-
lightened governor, to render them as fine as tlie finest
portions of the equatorial regions. Kind reader, fare
thee well

LETTER TO THE PORTUGUESE COMMANDER.

MuY Senor,

Como no tengo el honor, de ser conocido de VM. lo picnso
m^or, y mas decoroso, quedarme aqui, hastaque hnyiere recibido
sii respneste. Havieudo caminado hasta la chozo, adonde eatoi,
no (juisiere volvenne, antes de haver vistb la fortaleza de los
Portugueses ; y pido liconcia de VM. para que me adelante.
Houradissimos son mis motivos, ni tengo proyecto ningnno, o
de comercio, o de la soldadesca, no siendo yo, o comerciante, o
oficial. Hidalgo catolico soy, de hacienda in Ynglatierra, y
muohos afios de mi vida he pasado en caminar. Ultimemente,
de Demeraria vengo, la qual dex6 el 6 dia de Abril, para ver
este hennoso pais, y coger unas cnrio^idades, espeoialmente, el
veneno, que se llama wouralL Las mas recentes noticias que
tenian en Demeraria, antes de mi salida, eran medias tristes,
medias alegres. Tristes digo, viendo que Valencia ha caido en
poder del enenxigo comun, y el General Blake, y bub valientes
tropas quedan prisionsros de guerra. Alegres, al contrario,
porque Milord Wellington se ha apoderado de Ciudad Rodrigo.
A pesar de la raida de Valencia, parece claro al mundo, que laa
coBas del enemigo, estan andando, de pejor a pejor coda dia.
Nosotros debemos dar gracias al Altissimo, por haver sido ser-
vido dexarnos castigar nltimamente, a los robadores de sua
Santas Yglesias. Se vera VM. que yo no escribo Portugues ni
aun lo hablo, pero, haviendo aprendido el Castellano, no nos
foltaii medio de communicar y tener conversacion. Ruego ae

66

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

esousc esta carta escrita sin tintn, porque un Indio dexo caer mi
tintero y quobrose. Dios lo de a VM. muchos aflos de salud.
Entrctauto, tcngo fil honor do ser

Su mas obedecionte servidor,

Carlos Waterton.

REMARKS.

"Incertus, que. fata forant, ubi Bistero detur."

Kind and gentle reader, if the journey in quest of
the wourali poison has engaged thy attention, probably
thou mayest recollect that the traveller took leave of
thee at Fort St. Joachim, on the Rio Branco. Shouldst
niness at *^°" ^^^ ^ ^°"W ^hat befell him after-
TcWm*'' ^°' "^*'^^' «^<5"8e the following uninteresting
nanative.
Having had a return of fever, and aware that the
further he advanced into these wild and lonely regions,
the less would be the chance of regaining his health ;
Returns to ^ gave up all idea of proceeding onwards,
*"™ and went slowly back towards the Dome-
rara, nearly by the same route he had come.
Falls , the On descending the falls in the Esseauibo

Essequibo. „j,i-l. i- ^^i- ,. . '

wtuch torm an oblique line quite across the
river, it wa» resolved to push through them, the down-
ward stream being in the canoe's favour. At a little
distance from the place, a lai^e tree had fallen into the
river, and in the meantime the canoe was lashed to one
of its branches.

The roaring of the water was dreadful; it foamed
and dashed, over the rocks with a tremendous spray,
like breakers on a lee shore, threatening destruction to
whatever approached it. You would have thought, by
the confusion it caused in the river, and the whirlpools

miimiimimimifAm

H AMERICA.

lue un Indio doxo caer mi
M. muchos afios de salud.

ite servidor,

Carlos Wateuton.

li sistere detur."

»e journey in quest of
hy attention, probably
braveller took leave of
Eio Branco. Shouldst
what befell him after-
)llowing uninteresting

•, and aware that the
ild and lonely regions,
regaining his health ;
f proceeding onwards,
t towards the Dome-
I had come,
falls in the Essequibo,
i line quite across the
augh them, the down-
s favour. At a little
■ee had fallen into the
noe was lashed to one

dreadful; it foamed

a tremendous spray,

itening destruction to

uld have thought, by

5r, and the whirlpools

FIRST JOURNEY.

67

it made, that Scylla and Charybdis, and their whole pro-
geny, had left the Mediterranean, and come and settled
here. The channel was barely twelve feet wide, and
the torrent in rushing down formed transverse furrows,,
which showed how near the rocks were to the surface.
Nothing could surpass the skill of the Indian who
steered the canoe. He looked stedfastly at it., then at
the rocks, then cast an eye on the channel, and then
looked at the canoe again. It was in vain to speak.
The soimd was lost in the roar of waters ;. but his eye
showed that he had already passed it in imagination.
He held up his paddle in a position, as much as to
say, that he would keep exactly amid channel ; and
then made a sign to cut the bush-rope that held the
canoe to the fallen tree. The canoe drove down the
torrent with inconceivable rapidity. It did not touch
the rocks once all the way. The Indian proved to a
nicety, " medio tutissimus ibis."

Shortly after this it rained almost day and night, the
Timnderand lightning flashing incessantly, and the roar
g tmng. jj£ thunder awful beyond expression.
The fevei returned, and pressed so heavy on him,
Fever re- that to all appearance his last dav's march
was over. However, it abated ; his spirits
rallied, and he marched again ; and after delays and
inconveniences he reached the house of his worthy
Reaches Mi- friend Mr. Edmonstone, in Mibiri Creek
which faUs into the Demerara. No words
of his can do justice to the hospitality of that gentleman,
whose repeated encounters with the hostile negroes in
the forest have been publicly rewarded, and will be
remembered in the colony for years to come.

Here he learned that an eruption had taken place in
f2

turned.

68

WANDERINQS IN SOUTH AMEIIIOA.

9nll8 for
Oraimdit.

8t. Tliomas's
tower.

St. Vincent's ; and thus the noise heard in the night
of the first of May, which had caused such terror
amongst the Indians, and made the garrison, at Fort
St. Joachim remain under arms the rest of the night, is
accounted for.

After experiencing every kindness and

attention from Mr. Edmonstono, he soiled
for Granada, and from thence to St. Thomas's, a few
days before poor Captain Peake lost his life on his own
quarter-deck, bravely lighting for his country on the
coast of Guiana.

At St. Thomas's they show you a towe)-,

a little distance from the town, which they
say formerly belonged to a bucanier chieftain. Probably
the fury of besiegers has reduced it to its present dis-
mantled state. What still remains of it beare testimony
of its former strength, and may brave the attack of
time for centuries. You cannot view its ruins without
calling to mind the exploits of those fierce and liardy
hunters, long the terror of the western world. While
you admire then* undaunted courage, you lament that
it was often stained with cruelty ; while you extol their
scrupulous justice to each other, you will find a want
of it towards the rest of mankind. Often possessed of
enormous wealth, often in extreme poverty, often trium-
phant on the ocean, and often forcetl to fly to the
forests; their life was an ever-changing scene of ad-
vance and retreat, of glory and disorder, of luxury and
famine. Spain treated them as outlaws and pirates,
while other European powers publicly disowned them.
They, on the other hand; maintained that injustice
on the part of Spain first forced them to take up
arms in self-defence; and that, whilst. they kept in-

^■'^S»m?SimMSS&e&&3j:j.iji&

M

I AMERICA.

96 licard in the night

i caused such terror

the garrison, ftt Fort

ho rest of the night, is

every kindness and
dmonstone, he soiled
) St. Thomas's, a few
)8t his life on his own
r his country on the

ey show you a towei-,
the town, which they
ir chieftain. Probably
it to its present dis-
i of it bears testimony

brave the attack of
'ievr its ruins without
hose fierce and liardy
estern world. While
■age, you lament that
while you extol their
you will find a wont
. Often possessed of

poverty, often trium-
forcetl to fly to the
langing scene of ad-
sorder, of luxury and
outlaws and pirates,
ilicly disowned them,
ained that iiyustice
d them to take up
rhilst.they kept in-

J

nWt JODBNBT.

99

violable the laws which they had framed for their own
common benefit and protection, they had a right to
consider as foes those who treated them as outlaws.
Under this impression they drew the sword, and rushed
on as though in lawful war, and divided the spoils of
victory in tlio scale of justice.

After leaving St. Thomas's, a severe ter-
Thoiiia»n.Rn(i t'*" afS^o, every now and then, kept putting
a'tl^an'illfua tho traveller in mind that his shattered
fUIgtaud"'"" frame, " starting and shivering in the incon-
stant blast, meagre and pale, the ghost of
what it was," wanted repairs. Three years elapsed
after arriving in England, before the ague took its final
leave of him.

Experi- During that time several experiments were
Son '"of ti";^" ^^^^ ^»*^ *^^ wourali poison. In London
woliraii poi- an ass was inoculated with it, and died in
twelve minutes. The poison was inserted
into the leg of another, round which a bandage had
been pre iously tied a little above the place where the
wourali was introduced. He walked about as usual,
and ate his food as though all were right. After an
hour had elapsed, the bandage was untied, and ten
minutes after, death overtook him.

A she-ass received the wourali poison in the shoulder,
and died apparently in ten minutes. An incision was
then made in its windpipe, and through it the lungs
were regularly inflated for two hours with a ppir of
bellows. Suspended animation returned. The ass held
up her head, and looked around; but the inflating
being discontinued, she sunk once more in apparent
deatL The artificial breathing was immediately recom-
menced, and continued without intermission for two

t

70

WANDEKINOH IN HOUTII ' MERICA.

hours more. Tliis saved the asa from final iliHsolution :
sho rose up and walked about ; she Heemod neither in
agitation nor in pain. The wound through which the
poison entered was hialed without dilHculty. Her con-
stitution, however, was so severely affected, that it was
long a doubt if ever she would be well again. She
looked lean and sickly for above a year, but began to
mend the spring after ; and by Midsummer became
fat and fri«ky.

The kind-hearted reader will rejoice on learning that
Earl Percy, pitying her misfortunes, sent her down
from London to Walton Hall, near Wakefield. There
sho goes by the name of Wouralia. Wouralia shall be
sheltered from the wintry storm ; and when summer
comes, she shall feed in the finest pasture. No burden
shall be placed upon her, and she shall end her days in
peace.*

For three revolving autumns, the agtie-beaton wan-
derer never saw, without a sigh, the swallow bend her
flight towards warmer regions. He wishf<l to go too,
but could not; for sickness had enfeebleu him, and
prudence pointed out the folly of roving again, too
soon, across the northern tropic. To be sure, the Con-
tinent was now open, and change of air might prove
beneficial ; but there was nothing very tempting in a
trip across the Channel ; and as for a tour through
England !— England has long ceased to be the land for
adventures. Indeed, when good King Arthur reappears
to claim his crown, he will find things strangely altered
here; and may we not look for his coming! for there
is written upon his gravestone : —

• Poor Wonralia breathed her last on the 16th of February, 1839 havlnn
survived the operation nearly flve-and-twenty years.

siismm

m

II ' MERICA.

rrom final ili.sHolution :

sUo Hoernt'il neither in

id through whidi the

It dilHculty. Her con-

y affected, that it wiia

be well again. She

a year, but began to

Midsummer became

joice on learning that
mes, sent her down
ir Wakefield. There
I. "Wouralia shall be
; and when summer
pasture. No bui-den
shall end her days in

ihe agtie-beaton wan-
he swallow bend her
[e wiahfi'l to go too,
enfeebled him, and
if roving again, too
To be sure, the Con-
of air might prove
very tempting in a
for a tour through
3d to be the land for
ng Arthur reappears
igs strangely altered
8 coming 1 for there

1 of February, 1839, havloR

ITS.

nRST JOUnNEY.

"nic JftCTt Arti niH, Ilex (|ii<jniliini Ri'xquo fiiliiniH.'

" lli^ro Arthur IIcb, who fiinniTly
Wan kl'ig— anil kliiti iiKain to tie."

71

Don Quixote was always cf opinion that this famous
king did not die, but that h • was changed into a raven
by enchantment, and that the English are momontiirily
expecting his return. Eo tliis as it may, it is certain
that when ho reigned here, all was harmony and joy
The browsing lurds passed from vale to \&h\, the swains
sang from the bluebell- tecmiing groves, and nymphs,
with eglantine and roses in their neatly-braided hair,
went hand in hand to the flowery mead, to weave gar-
lands for their lambkins. If by chance some rude un-
civil fellow dared to moknt them, or attempted to throw
thorns in their path, there was sure to be a knight-
errant, not far off, ready to rush forward in tlveir de-
fence. But, alas I in these degenerate days it is not so.
Should a harmless cottage maid wander out of the
highway to pluck a primrose or two in the neighliour-
ing field, the haughty owner sternly bids her retire ;
and if a pitying swain hasten to escort lier back, he is
perhaps seized by the gaunt house-dog ere he reach Ik r I
.(Eneas's rn te on the other side of Styx could not
have been much worse than this, thf)Ugh, by his accoimt,
when he got back to earth, it appears that he had fallen
in with " Bellua Lernae, horrendum stridens, flammis-
<iue, armata Chimaera."

Moreover, he had a sybil to guide his steps ; and as
such a conductress, now-a-days, could not be got for
love or money, it was judged most prudent to refrain
from sauntering through this land of freedom, and wait
with patience the return of health. At last this long-
looked-for, ever-welcome stranger, came.

mMmmmmmusm

MtMHwa

ft

WANDCRINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

SECOND JOURNEY.

: ,

BnlliirnrPeN
naiiibuco.

In tho year 1816, two days before the
vernal equinox, I wailed from Liverpool for
Pemainbuco, in tho soiithoni hemisphere, on the coast
of Brazil. There is little at this time of the year, in
the European part of tho Atlantic, to engage the atten-
tion of the naturalist As you go down the channel,
you see a few divers and gonnets. The middle-sized
gulls, with a black spot at tho end of the wings, attend
you a little way into the Iky of Biscay. When it
blows a hard gale of wind, the stormy petrel makes its
appearance. While the sea runs mountains high, and
every wave tlireatens destruction to the labouring vessel,
this little harbinger of storms is seen enjoying itself,
on rapid pinion, up and down the roaring billows.
When the storm is over, it appears no more. It is
known to every English sailor by the name of Mother
Carey's chicken. It must have been hatched in ilix)lu8's
cave, amongst a clutch of squalls and tempests; for
whenever they get out upon the ocean, it always con-
trives to be of the party.

Trade windi. /^h°*|gb ^^^ calms, and storms, and adverse
winds in these latitudes are vexatious, still,
when you reach the trade winds you are amply repaid
for all disappointments and inconveniences. The trade
winds prevail about thirty degrees on each side of the
equator. This part of the ocean may be called tho
Elysian Fields of Neptune's empire ; and the torrid
zone, notwithstanding Ovid's remark, "non est habita-
bilis sestu," is rendered healthy and pleasant by these

P

■fe

TH AMERICA.

JRNEY.

!, two tlftys before the
ilod from Liverpool for
omiaphoro, on the coast
lis time of the year, in
bic, to engage the attcn-
go clown the channel,
ets. The middle-sized
nd of the wings, attend
of Biscay. When it
itormy petrel makes its
la mountains high, and
to the labouring vessel,
is seen enjoying itself,
a the roaring billows,
pears no more. It is
»y the name of Mother
oen hatched in ^Eolus's
ills and tempests; for
i ocean, it always con-

md storms, and adverse
ies are vexatious, still,
9 you ore amply repaid
iveniences. The trade
es on each side of the
in may be called the
ipire; and the torrid
aark, " non est habita-
and pleasant by these

BEf'OND JOUIINKV.

78

gently-blowing broezefl. The ship glides smoothly on,
and you soon find youraolf within the northern tropic.
When you uro on it, (Jancer is just over your head, and
betwixt him and Capricorn is the high road to the zodiac,
forty-Boven degrees wide, famous for Phaeton's misad-
venture. His father bogged and entreated him not tn
take it into his head to drive parallel to the five zones,
but to mind and keep on the turnpike which runs
obliquely across the oqnator. "Tliere you will dis-
tinctly see," said he, " the ruts of my chariot wheels,
• manifosta rotre vestigia cemes.' " " But," added he,
" even suppose you keep on it, and avoid tlio by-roads,
nevertheless, my dear boy, believe me, you will be most
sadly put to your shifts ; ' ardua prima via est,' the
first part of the road is confoundedly steep ! ' ultima via
proua est,' and after that it is all down hill ! More-
over, 'per insidias iter est, formasque ferarum,' the
road is full of nooses and bull-dogs, ' Hoimoniosque
areas,' and spring guns, 'stevaque circuitu, curvan-
tem brachia longo, Scorpio,' and steel traps of uncom-
mon size and shape." These were nothing in the eyes
of Phaeton : go ho would ; so off he set, full speed,
four-in-hand. He had a tough drive of it; and after
doing a prodigious deal of mischief, very luckily for
the world, he got thrown out of the box, and tumbled
into the river Po.

Some of our modem bloods have been shallow enough
to try to ape this poor empty-headed coachman, on a
little scale, making London their zodiac. Well for them
if tradesmen's bills, and other trivial perplexities, have
not caused them to be thrown into the King's Bench.
, , The productions of the torrid zone are un-

Torrld zone.

commonly grand. Its plains, its swamps, its

-tMJMWMMMMMlMiiirfl^W^j^

74

WANDERINGS IN SOCTH AMERICA.

savannas, and forests, abound^ with the lai-^est serpents
and wild beasts ; and its trees are the habitation of the
moat beautiful of the feather6d race. While the tra-
veller in the old world is astonished at the elephant,
the tiger, the lion, and the ihinoceros, he who wanders
through the torrid regions of the new, is Icct in admi-
ration at the cotingas, the toucans, the humming-birds,
and aras.

Flying flsh. . -^^ ''°^*°' li'^ewise, swarms with curiosi-
ties. Probably the flying-fish may be con-
sidered as one of the most singular. This Uttle scaled
inhabitant of water and air seems to have been more
favoured than the rest of its finny brethren. It can
nse out of the waves, and on wing visit the domain of
the birds. After flying two or three hundred yards, the
intense heat of the sun has dried its peUucid wings,
and it is obliged to wet them, in order to continue its
flight. It just drops into the ocean for a moment, and
then rises again and flies on ; and then descends to re-
moisten them, and then up again into the air : thus
passing its life, sometimes wet, sometimes dry, sometimes
in sunshine, and sometimes in the pale moon's nightly
beam, as pleasure dictates, or as need requires. The
additional assistance of wings is not thrown away upon
It It has full occupation both for fins and wings, as
its life is in perpetual danger.

The bonito and albicore chase it day and night ; but
the dolphin is its worst and swiftest foe. If it escape
mto the air, the dolphin pushes on with proportional
velocity beneath, and is ready to snap it up the moment
It descends to wet its wings.

You will often see above one hundred of these little
marine aerial fugitives on the wing at onca. They

tmm

'TH AMERICA.

fith the lai-f?est serpents
ae the habitation ol the
i race. While the tra-
nished at the elephant,
jceros, he who wanders
he new, is loct in admi-
ns, the humming-birds,

B, swarms with curiosi-
lying-fish may be con-
dar. This little scaled
ms to have been more
any brethren. It can
ng visit the domain of
ree hundred yards, the
ed its pellucid wings,
I order to continue its
Ban for a moment, and
d then descends to re-
in into the air : thus
letimes dry, sometimes
le pale moon's nightly
need requires. The
lot thrown away upon
for fins and wings, as

t day and night ; but
iest foe. If it eficape
on Math proportional
nap it up the moment

undred of these little
^ing at onca. They

SECOND JOURNEY.

76

appear to ;iae every exertion to prolong their Hight, but
vain are all their efforts; for when the last drop of
water on their wings is di-ied up, their flight is at an
end, and they must drop into the ocean. Some are
instantly devoured by their merciless pursuer, part
escape by swimming, and others get out again as quick
as possible, and trust once more to their wings.

It often happens that this unfortunate little creature,
after alternate dips and flights, finding all its exertions
of no avail, at last drops on board the vessel, verifying
the old remark,

" Incidit in Scyllam, enplens vitare Charybdlm."

There, stunned by the fall, it beats the deck with its
tail and dies. When eating it, you would take it for a
fresh herring. The largest measure from fourteen to
fifteen inches in length. The dolphin, af*or pursuing
it to the ship, sometimes forxoits his own life.

In days of yore, the musician used to play in softest,
sweetest strain, and then take an airing amongst the
dolphins ; " inter delphinas Arion." But now-a-days,
our tars have quite capsized the custom ; and instead
of riding ashore on the dolphin, they invite the dolphin
aboard. While he is darting and playing around the
vessel, a sailor goes out to the spritaailyard-arra, atid
with a long staff, leaded at one end, and armed at the
other with five barbed spikes, he heaves it at him. If
successful in his aim, there is a fresh mess for all hands.
The dying dolphin affords a superU and brilliant sight;

'■ Millo trahit morlens, adverso sole colores."

All the colours of the rainbow pass and repass in rapid
succession over his body, till the dark hand of death
closes the scene.

78

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMBniCA.

From the Cape de Vord islands to the coast of
Brazil, you see several different kinds of gulls, which,
probably, are bred in the island of St. Paul. Some-
times the large bird called the Frigate Pelican, soars
majestically over the vessel, and the tropic bird comes
near enough to let you have a fair view of the long
feathers in his tail. On the line, when it is calm,
sharks of a tremendoui size make tboir itpj^earance!
-They are descried from the ship by mean* of tli« dorsal
fin, which is above the water.

Fri tepeu ^" entering the bay of Pemambuco, the

oan.^ e - Frigate Pelican is seen watching the shoals

of fish from a prodigious height. It seldom

descends without a successful attack on its numerous

prey below.

Scenery. ^ y°" approach the shore, the view is

charming. The hills are clothed with wood,
gradually rising towards the interior, none of them of
any considerable height. A singular reef of rocks runs
parallel to the coast, and forms the harbour of Pemam-
buco. The vessels are moored betwixt it and the
town, safe from every storm. You enter the harbour
through a very narrow passage, close by a fort built on
the reef. The hill of Olinda, studded with houses and
convents, is on your right hand, and an island thickly
planted with cocoa-nut trees adds considerably to the
scene on your left. There are two strong forts on the
isthmus, betwixt Olinda and Pernambuco, and a pillar
midway to aid the pilot.

Pemambuco. ^^rnambuco probably contains upwards

of fifty thousand souls. It stands on a flat,

and 1^ divided into three parts ; a peninsula, an island,

and the continent. Though within a iew degrees of

a
t

t

s
n
P

t;

e

II

m

rH AMERICA.

lands to the coast of
kinds of gulls, which,
i of St. Paul. Some-
Frigate Pelican, soars
I the tropic hird comes
fair view of the long
ine, when it is calm,
lake tbftir stppearance.
by mean* of the dorsal

ly of Pernambuco, the
n -watching the shoals
us height. It seldom
itack on its numerous

le shore, the view is
re clothed with wood,
rior, none of them of
liar reef of rocks runs
e harbour of Pemam-
betwixt it and the
ou enter the harbour
ose by a fort built on
Ided with houses and
md an island thickly
s considerably to the
0 strong forts on the
lambuco, and a pillar

ly contains upwards

It stands on a Hat,

peninsula, an island,

in a £ew degrees of

SECOND JOURNEY.

fT

the line, its climate is remarkably salubrious, and ren-
dered abnost temperate by the refreshing sea-breeze.
Had art and judgment contributed their portion to its
natural advantages, Pernambuco, at this day, would
have been a stately ornament to the coast of Brazil.
On viewing it, it will strike you that everj- one bas
built his house entirely for himself, and deprived public
convenience of the little claim she had a right to put in.
Vou would wish that this city, so famous for its har-
bour, 80 happy in its climate, and so well situated for
commerce, could have risen under the flag of Dido, in
lieu of that of Braganza.

As you walk down the streets, the appearance of the
houses is not much in their favour. Some
housM^ '^^ of t'lem are very high, and sonu very low ;
some newly whitewashed, and otliers stained,
and mouldy, and neglected, as though they had no owner.
The balconies, too, are of a dark and gloomy appear-
ance. They are not, in general, open, as in most
tropical cities, but grated like a farmer's dairy window,
though somewhat closer.

There is a lamentable want of cleanliness in the
streets. The impurities from the houses, and the accu-
mulation of litter from the beasts of burden, are un-
pleasant sights to the passing stranger. He laments'
the want of a police as he goes along ; and when the
wind begins to blow, his nose and eyes are too often
exposed to a cloud of very unsavoury dust.

When you view the port of Pernambuco, fuU of

ships of all nations ; when you know that

nMbuco.^""^ *''® richest commodities of Europe, Africa,

and Asia are brought \,o it j when you see

immense quantities of cotton, dye-wood, and the choicest

•Ammm

78

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMEIIIOA.

fruits pouring into the town, you are apt to wonder at
the little attention these people pay to the common
comforts which one always expects to find in a large
and opulent city. However, if the inhabitants are
satisfied, there is nothing more to be, said. Should
they ever be convinced that inconveniences exist, and
that nuisances are too frequent, the remedy is in their
own hands. 1 1 present, certainly, they seem perfectly
regardless of them j and the Captain- General of Per-
nambuco walks through the streets with as apparent
content and composure, as an English statesman would
proceed down Charing-cross. Custom reconciles every-
thing. In a week or two the stranger himself begins
to feel less the things which annoyed him so much
upon his first arrival, and after a few months' residence,
he thinks no more about them, while he is partaking
of the hospitality, and enjoying the elegance and
splendour within doors in this great city.

Palace of ^^^^ ^^ *^® river-side stands what is
GenBrnr"'"" ^'^^'^ *^® ^^^^ °^ *^® Captain-General of
Pernambuco. Its form and appeaiance alto-
gether, strike the traveller that it was never intended
for the use it is at present put to.

Eeader, throw a veil over thy iecoUection for a little
while, and forget the cruel, unjust, and unmerited cen-
sures thou hast heard against an unoffending order.
This palace was once the Jesuits' college, and originally
built by those chaiitable fathers. Ask the aged and
respectable inhabitants of Pernambuco, and they will
Deatmction *^^ ^^^ ^^'^^ *^® destruction of the Society
of jesM"'"^ °^ ^^^"^^ ^^ ^ terrible disaster to the public.

present day,

and its consequences severely felt to the

H AMEniOA.

are apt to wonder at
pay to the common
3ts to find in a large
the inhabitants are
to be , said. Should
mveniences exist, and
he remedy is in their
J, they seem perfectly
itain- General of Per-
ets with as apparent
;lish statesman would
jtom reconciles every-
anger himself begins
inoyed him so much
Bvv months' residence,
hile he is partaking
Z the elegance and
it city.

side stands what is
a Captain-General of
and appearance alto-
was never intended

collection for a little

and unmerited cen-

unoffending order.

liege, and originally

Ask the aged and

buco, and they will

ction of the Society

saster to the public,

Jverely felt to the

SECOND JOT

79

When Pombal took the rei j.ower into his own

hands, virtue and learning bu.auod bright within the
college walls. Public catechism to the children, and
religious instruction to all, flowed daily from the mouths
of its venerable priests.

They were loved, revered, and respected throughout
the whole town. The illuminating philosophers of the
day had sworn to exterminate Christian knowledge, a. .d
the college of Pernambuco was doomed to 1 ader in
the general storm. To the long-lasting sorrow and dis-
grace of Portugal, the philosophers blinded her king,
and flattered her prime minister. Pombal was exactly
the tool tn^ae sappers of every public and private virtue
wanted. Ho had the naked sword of power in his own
hand, and his heart was as hard as flint. He struck a
mortal blow, and the Society of Jesus, throughout the
Portuguese dominions, was no more.

One morning all thr> fathers of the collage in Per-
nambuco, some of them very old and feeble, were sud-
denly ordered into the refectory. They had notice
beforehand of the fatal storm, in pity from the governor,
but not one of them abandoned his charge. They had
done their duty and had nothing to fear. They bowed
with resignation to the will of Heaven, As soon as
they had all reached the refectory, they were all locked
up, and never more did they see their rooms, their
friends, their scholars, or acquaintance. In the dead of
the following night, a strong guard of soldiers literally
drove them through the streets to the water's edge.
They were thei. unveyed in boats aboard a ship, aad
steered for Bahia. Those who survived the barbarous
treatment they experienced from Pombal's creatures,
were at last ordered to Lisbon. The college of Per-

80

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

nambuco was plundered, and some time after an ele-
phant was kept there.

Thus the arbitrary hand of power, in one night,
smote and swept away the sciences ; to which succeeded
the low vulgar buffoonery of a showman. Virgil and
Cicero made way for a wild beast from Angola ! and
now a guard is on duty at the very gate where, in times
long past, the poor were daily fed ! ! !

Trust not, kind reader, to the envious remarks which
their enemies have scattered far and near ; believe not
the stories of those who have had a hand in the sad
tragedy. Go to Brazil, and see with thine own eyes
the effect of Pombal's shoi aighted polit:y. There vice
reigns triumphant, and learning is at its lowest ebb.
Neither is this to be wondered at. Dfjatroy the com-
pass, and will the vessel find her far distant port?
Will the flock keep together, and escape the wolvee,
after tbo shepherds are nU slain ? The Brazilians wero
told, tlidt public education would go on just ai^ usuaL
They might have asked Government, who so aSle to
instruct our youth, as those whose knowledge is prover-
bial 1 who so fit, e^ those who enjoy our entire confidence?
who so worthy, as those wiiose lives are irreproachable ?
Tliey soon found that those who succeeded the fathers
of the Soci sty of Jesus, had neither their manner nor
their abilities. They h^-^^ not made the instruction of
youth their particular study. Moreover, they entered
on the field after a defeat, where the oflScers had ail
been slaii' ; where the plan of the campaign was lost ;
where all was in sorrow and dismay. No exertions of
theirs could rally the ditpersed, or skill prevent the
fatal consequences. At the present day, the seminary
of Olinda, in comparison with the fomor Jesuits'

m

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i

J

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0

t

t]
d
o:
sj
ts

y

cc

»*iWIILWI*MII.'W.i»

B AMERICA.

me time after an ele-

power, in one night,
18 ; to which succeeded
■howman. Virgil and
at from Angola ! and
y gate where, in times
I ! ! !

mvioiis remarks which
md near ; believe not
lad a hand in the sad
wit}t thine own eyes
id polit:y. There vice
is at its lowest ebb.
it. l^airoy the corn-
ier far distant port?
1 escape the wolvee.
The Brazilians wero
I go on just ai^ usuaL
nent, who so aSle to
knowledge is prover-
our entire confidence?
3S are irreproachable 1
succeeded the fathers
tier their manner nor
de the instruction of
oreover, they entered
I the officers had ail
e campaign was lost ;
ay. No exertions of
or skill prevent the
it day, the seminary
the fomor Jesuits'

SECOND JODBNET.

81

m

college, is only as the waning moon's beam to the sun's
meridian splendour.

When you visit the places where those learned fathers
once flourished, and see, with your own eyes, the evils
their dissolution has caused; when you hear the inha-
bitants telling you how good, how clever, how cha-
ritable they were,— what will you think of our poet
laureate, for caUing them, in his "History of BrazU "
" Missioners, whose zeal the most fenatical was directed
by the coolest policy i "

Was it fanatical to renounce the honours and com-
forts of this transitory life, in order to gain eternal
glory m the next, by denying themselves, and taking
up the cross ? Was it fanatical to preach salvation to
innumerable wUd iiordes of Americans? to clothe the
naked? to encourage the repenting sinner? to aid the
dying Christian ? The fathers of the Society of Jesus
did all this. And for this theii- zeal is pronounced to
be "the most fanatical, directed by the coolest policy."
It wiU puzzle m.any a clear brain to comprehend how it
18 possible, in the nature of things, that zeal the most
fanatiml should be directed by the coolest policy. Ah,
Mr. Laureate, Mr. Laureate, that " quidlibet audendi ''
of yours may now and thru gild the poet, at the same
tune that it makes the historian cut a sorry figure !

Could Father Nobrega rise from the tomb, he would
thus address you :-" Ungrateful Englishman, you have
drawn a great part of your information from the writings
of the Society of Jesus, and in return you attempt to
stain its character by telling jour countrymen that 'we
taught the idolatry we beUeved ! ' In speaking of me,
you say, it was my happy fortune to be stationed in a
country where no7ie but the good prinuiplos of my order

were called into action. Ungenerous laureate, the nar-
row policy of the times has kept your countrymen in
the dark with regard to the true character of the Society
of Jesus ; and you draw the bandage still tighter over
their eyes, by a malicious insinuation. I lived, and
taught, and died in Brazil, where you state that none
but the good principles of my order were called into
action, and still, in most absolute contradiction to this,
you remark we believed the idolatry we taught in Brazil.
Thus we brought none but good principles into action,
and still taught idolatry.

"Again, you state there is no individual to whose
talents Brazil is so greatly and permanently indebted as
mine, and that I must be regarded as the founder of
that system so successfully pursued by the Jesuits in
Paraguay ; a system productive of as much good as is
compatible with "pious fraud. Thus you make me, at
one and the same time, a teacher of none but good
principles, and a teacher of idolatry, and a believer in
idolatry, and still the founder of a system for which
Brazil is greatly and permanently indebted to me,
though, by the bye, the system was only productive of
ja much good as is compatible with pious fraud !

" What means all this ? After reading such incom-
parable nonsense, should your countrymen wish to be
properly informed concerning the Society of Jesus,
there are in England documents enough to show thatu
the system of the Jesuits was a system of Christian
charity towards their fellow-creatures, administered in
a manner which human prudence judged best calculated
to ensure succ and that the idolatry which you un-
charitably af jy taught, was really and truly the
very same faiu. aich the Catholic church taught for

1

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I

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e

t]

V

li
tl
tl
li

ti
Sj

yc

CO

an
Gi
sh
wl
tin
hai

t-^

'H AMERICA.

erous laureate, the nar-
pt your countrymen in
haracter of the Society
idage still tighter over
luatiou. I lived, and
)re you state that none
jrder were called into
3 contradiction to this,
!ry we taught in Brazil,
principles into action,

0 individual to whose
jrmanently indebted as
ded as the founder of
ued by the Jesuits in
of as much good as is
Tius you make me, at
ler of none but good
atry, and a believer in
if a system for which
itly indebted to me,
vas only productive of
th pious fraud !
>r reading such incom-
ountrymen wish to be
he Society of Jesus,
enough to show that^s
i system of Christian
;ures, administered in
judged best calculated
dolatry which you un-
3 really and truly the
)lic church taught for

SECOND JOURNBV,

88

centuries m England, which she still teaches to those
who wish to hear her, and which she wiU continue to
teach, pure and unspotted, till time shall be no more "
Ihe environs of Pernambuco are very pretty. You

Environ, of """ "''""*'^ ^''"''' '"^ ''^ directions, and th«
Pernambuco. appearance of here and thore a sugar plan-
tation enriches the scenery. Palm-trees,
cocoa-nut-treos, orange and lemon groves, and all the
different fmits peculiar to BrazU, are here in the greatest
abundance.

At Olinda there is a national botanical garden; it
wants space, produce, and improvement. The forests
which are sevei-al leagues off, abound with birds, beasts!
insects, and serpents. Besides a brilliant plumage
many of the birds have a very fine song. The troupiale'
noted for its rich colours, sings delightfully in the
environs of Pernambuco. The retl-headed finch, larger
than the European sparrow, pours forth a sweet and
varied strain, in company with two species of wrons, a
ittle before daylight. There are also several species of
the thrush, which have a song somewhat different from
that of the European thrush; and two species of the
linnet, whose strain is so soft and sweet that it dooms
ttiem to captivity in the houses. A bird called here
Sangre do Buey, blood of the ox, cannot faU to engage
your attention: he is of the passerine tribe, and very
common about the houses ; the wings and tail are black,
and every other part of the body a flaming red. In
Guiana, there is a species exactly the same as this in
shape, note, and economy, but differing in colour, its
Whole Ijody being like black velvet; on its breast a
tinge of red appears through the black. Thiis nature
has ordered this Httle Tangara to put on mournina

g2

64

WANDERINOS IN SOCTH A Vf ERICA.

ir scarlet to the south

to the north of the lino, and
of it.

For three months in the yoartho cnvironM f Pemam-
buco are animated beyond description. From
Noveml)i>r to March the weather is particu
larly fine ; then it is that rich and podi , young and old,
foreigners and natives, all issiii from the iMly to enjoy
the country till Lent approaches, when back they hie
them. Villages and hamlets, where nothing before but
rags was seen, now shine in all the elegance of dress ;
every house, every room, every shed become eligible
places for those whom nothing but extreme necessity
could have forced to live there a few weeks ago : some
join in tho merry dance, others saunter up and down
the orange-groves ; and towards evening the roads
become a moving scene of silks and jewels. The gaming-
tables have constant visitors ; there thousands are daUy
and nightly lost and won ; parties even sit down to try
their luck i und the outside of the door as well as in
the room : —

" Veitibulum ante ipsum primisqup in faucibiu aula
Luotus ot ultrices, pnsueru sedilla cune."

About six or seven miles from Pernambuco stands a
pretty little village called Monteiro ; the
river runs close by it, and its rural beauties
seem to surpass all others in the neighbourhood ; there
the Captain-General of Pemambu lo resides during this
time of merriment and joy.

Tiie traveller who allots a portion of his time to peep
at his fellow-creatures in their relaxations, and accustoms
himself to read their several little histories in their
looks and gestures as he goes musing on, may have full
occupation for an hour or two every day at this season

Montoiro.

TH A.VfEHIOA.

"W Bcarlot to the south

tho onvirona f Pernam-
syonil description. Froin
1 tho weather is particu
ind poor, young and old,

from tho city to enjoy
B9, when back thoy hie
rhero nothing before hut
1 the elegance of dress ;
iry shed become eligible
J but extreme necessity

a few weeks ago : some
3 saunter up and down
irds evening the roads
rnd jewels. Thegaming-
bhere thousands are daDy
•ties even sit down to try
of tho door as well as in

squp in faucibus aula:
idilla curtB."

3m Pernambuco stands a
;e called Montoiro; the
it, and its rural beauties
le neighbourhood ; there
nbu 10 resides during this

)rtion of his time to peep
elaxations, and accustoms
little histories in their
nusing on, may have full
i every day at this season

SECOND JOUHNEY.

86

lunid tho variegated scenes around the pretty village of
Monteiro. In tho evening groujis sitting at the door,
he may sometimes see with a sigh Iww wealtJi and the
prince's favour cause a booby to pass for a Solon, and
be reverenced ns such, whUo perhaps a poor neglected
Camoens stands silent at a distance, awed by tho
(lozzlijig glare of wealth and power. Eetirecl from the
public road ho may see poor Maria sitting under a palm-
tree, with her elbow in her lap, and her head loaning
on one side within her hand, weeping over her tV.
bidden bans. And as he moves on " witli wanderii
step and slow," he may hear a brokenhearted nyu.
ask her faitldess swain, —

" How could yoii say my face was fair,
And yet that face fontake ?
How could you win my virgin lieart,
Yet leavo that heart to break f"

One afternoon, in an unfrequented part not far from
Monteiro, liese adventures were near being brouf^ht to
a speedy and a final close : six or seven blackbirds, with
a white spot betwixt tho shoulders, were making a
noise, and passing to and fro on the lower branches of
a tree in an abandoned, weed-grown, orange orchard.
In the long grass underneath the tree, apparently a pale
green grasshopper was fluttering, as though it had got
entangled in it. When you once fancy that the thing
you are looking at is reaUy what you take it for, the
more you look at it the mom you aie convinced it is so.
In the present case, this was a grasshopper beyond all
doubt, and nothing more remained to be done but to
wait in patience till it had settled, in order that you
might run no risk of breaking its legs in attempting to
lay hold of it while it was fluttering— it still kept
fluttering ; and having quietly approached it, intending

J'

86

WANDEHINOS IN SOUTH AMKHICA.

to maico Hure of it — behold, the head of a large rattlo-
'•-iiiiko uppoarod in the grosa cIoho by : an instantnncouH
8i)ring backwards provontcd fatal conao<iueuccH. What
had been taken for a gmsBhopper wan, in fact, the
elevated rattle of the snake in the act of announcing
that he was quite prepared, though unwilling,', to make
a sure and deadly spring. lie shortly after passed
slowly from under the orange-tree to the neighl)Ouring
■wood on the side of a hill : as he moved over a place
bare of grass and weeds, he oppeared to be about eight
feet long : it was ho who had engogod the attention of
the birds, and made them heedless of danger from
another quarter : they flew away on his retiring ; one
alone left his litt! ; life in the air, destined to become a
specimen, mute 'ai motionless, for the inspection of
the curious in a far distant clime.
„ . „ It was now the rainy season : the birds

Rainy Season. •" '

were moulting : fifty-eight specimens of the
handsomest of them in the neighbourhood of Pemam-
buco had been collected ; and it was time to proceed
else' h'^re. The conveyance to the interior was by
Imm;.* .'i ,- and this mode, together with the heavy rains,
yonil expose preserved specimens to almost certain
damage. The journey to Maranham by land, would
take at least forty days. The route was not wild
enough to engage the attention of an explorer, or
civilized enough to afford common comforts to a
traveller. By sea there were no opportunities, except
slave ships. As the transporting poor negroes from
port to port for sale pays well in Brazil, the ships' decks
are crowded with them. This would not do.

Excuse here, benevolent reader, a small tribute of
gratitude to an Irish family, whose urbanity and goodness

llHIlillM

I'

r

rn AHcrucA.

head of a large rattlo-
0 by : an instantnnuouH
,1 con80(iuencc«. What
)por wa«, in fact, the
the act of announcing
iigh nnwiUin)^', to make
e ahortly after paseeil
oe to the neighl)0uring

he moved over a place
oared to be about eight
ngaged the attention of
edless of danger from
ly on his retiring ; one
r, destined to become a
, for the inspection of

3.

■ainy season ; the birds
-eight specimens of the
;hbourhood of Pemam-
it was time to proceed
) the interior was by
r with the heavy rains,
lens to almost certain
inliam by land, would
i route was not wild
n of an explorer, or
tnmon comforts to a
0 opportunities, except
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Brazil, the ships' decks
rauld not do.
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PtiotDgraphic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716)872-4303

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CIHM/iCMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.

Canadian Institute for Historical IVIicroreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

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SECOND JOURNEY.

97

have long gained it the est ^em and respect of all ranks
in Pernambuco. The kindness and attention I received
from Dennis Kearney, Esq. and his amiable lady, will
be remembered with gratitude to my dying day.

After wishing farewell to this hospitable
cfmne'"'" femily, I embarked on board a, Portuguese
brig, with poor accommodations, for Cayenne
in Guiana, The most eligible bed-room was the top of
a hen-coop on deck. • Even here, an unsavoury little
beast, called bug, was neither shy nor deficient in
appetite.

The Portuguese seamen are famed for catching fish.
One evening, under the line, four sharks made their
appeai'ance in the wake of the vessel. ITie sailors
caught them all.

On the fourteenth day after leaving Pernambuco, the
brig cast anchor off the island of Cayenne. The
entrance is beautiful To windward,-not far off, there
are two bold wooded islands, called the Father and
Mother; and near them are others, their children,
smaller, though as beautiful as their parents. Another
is seen a long way to leeward of the family, and seems
as if it had strayed from home, and cannot find his
way back. The French call it "I'enfiant perdu." As
you pass the islands, the stately hills on the main,
ornamented with ever-verdant foliage, show you that
this is by far the sublimest scenery on the sea-coast,
from the Amazons to the Oroonoquo. On casting your
eye towards Dutch Guiana, you will see that the moun-
tains become unconnected and few in number; and long
before you reach Surinam, the Atlantic wave washes a
flat and muddy shore.

Considerably to windward of Cayenne, and about '

88

WANDERIKOS IN SOUTH AUEBIOA.

Constable rock.

twelve leagues from land, stands a stately
and towering rock, called the Constable. As
nothing grows on it to tempt greedy and aspiring man
to claim it as his own, the sea-fowl rest and raise their
offspring there. The bird called the frigate is ever
soaring round its rugged summit. Hither the phaeton
bends his rapid flight, and flocks of rosy flamingos here
defy the fowler's cunning. All along the coast, opposite
the Constable, and indeed on every uncultivated part
of it to windward and leeward, are seen innumerable
quantities of snow-white egrets, scarlet curlews, spoon-
bills, and flamingos.

Cayenne is capable of being a noble and
C8*e^e^ "* productive colony. At present it is thought
to be the poorest on the coast of Guiana.
Its estates are too much separated one from the other,
by immense tracts of forest ; and the revolutionary war,
like a cold eastern wind, has chilled their zeal, and
blasted their best expectations.

The clove-tree, the cinnamon, pepper and nutmeg,
and many other choice spices and fruits of the Eastern
and Asiatic regions, produce abundantly in Cayenne.

The town itself is prettily laid out, and
was once well fortified. They tell you it
might easily have been defended against the invading
force of the two united nations ; but Victor Hugues,
its governor, ordered the tri-coloured flag to be struck ;
and ever since that day, the standard of Braganza has
waved ou the ramparts of Cayenne.

Governor of He who has received humiliations from
Cayenne. ^j^^ j^^^ ^f ^^g haughty, iron-hearted

governor may see him now in Cayenne, stripped of all
his revolutionary honours, broken down and ruined,

The town.

m AHEBIOA.

land, stands a stately
Ued the Constable. As
reedy and aspiring man
3wl rest aud raise tbeir
[ed the frigate is ever
t. Hither the phaeton
8 of rosy flamingos here
long the coast, opposite
Bvery uncultivated part
, are seen innumerable
, scarlet curlews, spoon-

le of being a noble and
kt present it is thought
n the coast of Guiana,
ited one from the other,
d the revolutionary war,
chilled their zeal, and

in, pepper and nutmeg,
nd fruits of the Eastern
undantly in Cayenne.
is prettily laid out, and
[fied. They tell you it
ed against the invading
IS ; but Victor Hugues,
■oured flag to be struck ;
tandard of Braganza has
enne.

sived humiliations firom
I haughty, iron-hearted
Cayenne, stripped of all
oken down and ruined.

SECOND JOURNEY.

89

^ and under arrest in his own house. He has four

f accomplished daughters, respected by the whole town.
Towards the close of day, when the stin's rays are no
longer oppressive, these much-pitied ladies are seen
walking up and down the balcony with their aged
parent, trjing, by their kind and filial attention, to
remove the settled gloom from h'.i too guilty brow.

This was not the time for a tra-v oiler to enjoy Cayenne.
The hospitality of the inhabitants was the
tanui* ^^^^^^' "^^^^ *8 ever, but they had lost their wonted
gaiety in public, and the stranger might
read in their countenances, as the recollection of recent
humiliations and misfortunes every now and then kept
breaking in upon them, that they were still in sorrow
for their fallen country : the victorious hostile cannon
of Waterloo still sounded in their ears : their Emperor
was a prisoner amongst the hideous rocks of St.
Helena ; and many a Frenchman who had foughc and
bled for France was now amongst them, begging for a
little support to prolong a life which would be forfeited
on the parent soil. To add another handful to the
cypress and wormwood already scattered amongst these
polite colonists, they had just received ordei-s from the
court of Janeiro to put on deep mourning for six
months, and half-mourning for as many more, on
account of the death of the Queen of Portugal.

About a day's journey in the interior, is the cele-
brated national plantation. This spot was judiciously
chosen, for it is out of the reach of enemies' cruisers.
Plantation of I* "• Called La Gabrielle. No plantation
LaGabrieiie. ^ ^.j^g western world can vie with La
Gabrielle. Its spices are of the choicest kind ; its soil
particularly favourable to them ; its arrangements beau-

is

-I

90

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

tiful ; and its director, Monsieur Martin, a botanist of
first-rate abilities. This indefatigable naturalist ranged
through the East, under a royal commission, in quest of
botanical knowledge j and during his stay in the western
regions, has sent over to Europe from twenty to twenty-
five thousand specimens, in botany and zoology. La
Gabrielle is on a far-extending range of woody hills.
Figure to yourself a hill in tbe shape of a bowl reversed,
with the buildbgs on the top of it, and you will have
an idea of the appearance of La Gabrielle. You
approach the house through a noble avenue, five
hundred toises long, of the choicest tropical fruiUrees,
planted with the greatest care and judgment; and
should you chance to stray through it, after sunset,
when the dove-trees are in blossom, you would fancy
yourself in the Idalian groves, or near the banks of
the Nile, where they were burning the finest incense,
as the Queen of Egypt passed.

On La Gabrielle there are twenty-two thousand clove-
trees in full bearing. They are planted thirty feet
asunder. Their lower bran(jhea touch the ground. In
general the trees are topped at five-and-twenty feet
high ; though you will see some here towering up above
sixty. The black pepper, the cinnamon, and nutmeg
are also in great abundance here, and very productive.

While the stranger views the spicy groves of La
Gabrielle, and tastes the most delicious fruits which
have originally been imported hither from all parts of
the tropical, world, he will thank the government which
has supported, and admire the talents of the gentleman
who has raised to its present grandeur, this noble
collection of useful fniits. There is a large nurseiy
attached to La Gabrielle, where plants of all the

ra AHGRIOA.

ir Martin, a botanist of
gable naturalist ranged
commission, in quest of
J his stay in the western
from twenty to twenty-
any and zoology. La
range of woody hills,
ape of a bowl reversed,
f it, and you will have

La Gabrielle. You
» noble avenue, five
Jest tropical fruit-trees,

and judgment; and
rough it, after sunset,
som, you would fancy
or near the haxtka of
ng the finest incense,

ty-two thousand clove-
e planted thirty feet
ouch the ground. In
b five-and-twenty feet
lere towering up above
nnamon, and nutmeg
and very productive.
) spicy groves of La
ielicious fruits which
ther from all parts of
the government which
mts of the gentleman
grandeur, this noble
ra is a large nurseiy
e plants of all the

'^FWP

SECOND JOURNEY.

91

diiforent species aro raised and distributed gratis to
those colonists who wish to cultivate them.
Not far from the banks of the river Oyapoo, to
windward of Cayenne, is a mountain which
theBocfc*"' contains an immense cavern. Here the
Cock of the Eock is plentiful. He is about
the size of a fan-taU pigeon, his colour a bright orange,
and his wings and tail appear as though fringed; his
head is ornamented with a superb double-feathery crest,
edged with purple. He passes the day amid gloomy
damps and silence, and only issues out for food a short
time at nunrise and sunset. He is of the gallinaceous
tribe. The South-American Spaniards call him " Gallo
del Eio Negro," (Cock of the Black Eiver,) and suppose
that he is only to be met with in the vicinity of that
far-inland stream; but he is common in the interior of
Demerara, amongst the huge rocks in the forests of
Macoushia ; and he has been shot south of the line, in
the captainship of Para.

The bird called by Buffon Grand Gobe-mouche, has
never been found in Demerara, although veiy common
in Cayenne. He is not quite so large as the jackdaw,
tod is entirely black, except a large spot under the
throal^ which is a glossy purple.

You may easily sail from Cayenne to the river
Pawmaribo. ^^'^ i° '^0 days. Its capital, Para-
maribo, is handsome, rich, and populous :
hitherto it has been considered by far the finest town
in Guiana ; but probably the time is not far off when
the capital of Demerara may claim the prize of
superiority. You may enter a creek above Paramaribo,
and travel through the interior of Surinam, till you
come to the Nicari, which is close to the large river

99

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

Demerara.

Coryntin. When yoii have pasaed this river, there is a
good public road to Kew Amsterdam, the capital of
Berbice.

On viewing New Amsterdam, it will
•torOam. ^'" immediately strike you that something or

other has intervened to prevent its arriving
at that state of wealth and consequence for which its
original plan shows it was once intended. What has
caused this stop in its progress to the rank of a fine and
populous city, remains for those to find out who are
inU-'i jRted in it ; certain it is, that New Amsterdam has
been languid for some years, and now the tide of com-
merce seems ebbing fast from the shores of Berbice.

Gay and blooming is the sister colony of

Demerara. Perhaps, kind reader, thou hast
not forgot that it was from Stabroek, the capital of
Demerara, that the adventurer set out, some years ago,
to reach the Portuguese frontier fort, and collect the
wourali poison. It was not intrended, when this second
sally was planned in England, io have visited Stabroek
again by the route here described. The plan was, to
have ascended the Amazons from Para, and got into the
Rio Negro, and from thence to have returned towards
the source of the Essequibo, in oi-der to examine the
crystal mountains, and look once more for Lake Parima,
or the White Sea; but on arriving at Cayenne, the
current was ruiming with such amazing rapidity to
leeward,- that a Portuguese sloop, which had been
beating up towards Para for four weeks, was then only
half-way. Finding, therefore, that a beat to the Amazons
would be long, tedious, and even uncertain, and aware
that the season for procuring birds with fine plumage
had already set in, I left Cayenne in an American ship

w

riH AMERICA.

led this river, there is a
iterdam, the capital of

r Amsterdam, it will
^ou that something or
to prevent its arriving
sequence for which its
3 intended. What has

0 the rank of a fine and
le to find out who are
at New Amsterdam has
d now the tide of com-
le shores of Berbice.

1 is the sister colony of
, kind reader, thou hast
tabroek, the capital of
set out, some years ago,
iv fort, and collect the
nded, when this second

0 have visited Stabroek
)ed. The plan was, to

1 Para, and got into the
have returned towards

n Older to examine the
B more for Lake Parima,
iving at Cayenne, the
ih amazing rapidity to
loop, which had been
iir weeks, was then only
at a beat to the Amazons
m uncertain, and aware
birds with fine plumage
ine in an American ship

SECOND JOURNET.

98

stabroek.

for Paramaribo, wont through the interior to the
Coryntin, stopped a few days in New Amsterdam, and
proceeded to Demerara, If, gentle reader, thy patience
be not already worn out, and thy eyes half closed in
slumber, by perusing the dull adventures of this second
sally, perhaps thou wilt pardon a line or two on De-
merara ; and then we will retire to its forests, to collect
and examine the economy of its most rare and beautiful
birds, and give the world a new mode of preserving
them.

Stabroek, the capital of Demerara, has been rapidly
increasing for some years back ; and if pro-
sperity go hand in hand with the present
enterprising spirit, Stabroek, ere long, will be of the
first colonial consideration. It stands on the eastern
bank at the mouth of the Demerara, and enjoys all the
advantages of the refreshing sea breeze ; the streets are
spacious, well bricked, and elevated, the trenches clean,
the bridges excellent, and the houses handsome. Almost
every commodity and luxury of London may be bought
.in the shops at Stabroek : its market wants better regu-
ktions. The hotels are commodious, clean, and well
attended. Demerara boasts as fine and well-discipliaed
militia as any colony in the western world.

The court of justice, where, in times of old, the

bandage was easily removed from the eyes of

u^!^"""*' *^® goddess, and he <;Hles thrown out of

equilibrium, now rises i'. dignity under the

firmness, talents, and urbanity of Mr. President Rough.

The plantations have an appearance of

tioM*^'^'*^ high cultivation; a tolerable idea may be

formed of their value, when you know that

last year Demerara numbered seventy-two thousand

»4

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERIOV.

Slavery.

nine hundred nnd ninoty-nine slaves. Thoy made about
forty-four niillior pounds of sugar, near two million
gallons of rum, above eleven million pounds of cofFefi,
and three million eight hundred and nineteen thousand
five hundred and twelve pounds of cotton ; the receipt
into the public chest was five hundred and fifty-thvee
thousand nine hundred and fifty-six guilders; the
public expenditure, four hundred and fifty-one thounand
six hundred and three guilders.

Slavery can never be defer ued ; he whose
heart is not of iron can never wish to be able
to defend it : while he heaves a sigh for the po( r negro
in captivity, he wishes from his soul that the traffic had
been stifled in its birth ; but, unfortunately, the govern-
ments of Europft nourished it, and now thac they are
exerting themselves to do away the evil, and ensure
liberty to the sons of Africa, the situation of the
plantation slaves is depicted as truly deplorable, and
their condition wretched. It is not so, A Briton's
heart, proverbially kind and generous, k not changed
by climate, or its streams of compassion dried up by
the scorching heat of a Demerara sun ; he cheers hi»
negi-oes in labour, comforts them in sickness, is kind to
them in old age, and never forgets that they are his
fellow-creatures.

Instances of cruelty and depravity certainly occur
hei-e as well as all the world over ; but the edicts of
the colonial government are weU calculated to prevent
them; and the British planter, except here and there
one, feels for the wrongs done to a poor ill-treated slave,
and shows that his heart grieves for him by causing
immediate redress, and preventing a repetition.

Long may ye flourish, peaceful and liberal inhabitants

».

TH AMERICA.

laves. Thoy made about
ugar, near two million
lillion pounds of cofFef),
and nineteen thousand
) of cotton J the receipt
hundred and fifty-thvee
fifty-six guilders ; the
i and fifty-one thousand

be defer ued ; he whose
in never wish to be able
sigh for the poi r negro
soul that the traffic had
[fortunately, the govern-
and now thac they are
y the evil, and ensure
the situation of the
i truly deplorable, and
is not so, A Briton'a
nerous, ij not changed
ompassion dried up by
ara sun ; he cheers hie^

I in sickness, is kind to
gets that they are his

pravity certainly occur
over ; but the edicts of

II calculated to prevent
except here and there
a poor ill-treated slave,

es for him by causing

Dg a repetition.

and liberal inhabitants

BECONO JOURNEY.

96

of Domorara. Your doors are ev«r open to harbour the
harbourless ; your purHea never shut to the wants of the
distressed ; many a ruined fugitive from Oroonoque
will bless your kindness to him in the hour of need,
when, flying from the woes of civil discord, without food
or raiment, ho begged for shelter underneath your roof.
The poor sufferer in Trinidad, who lost his all in the
devouring flames, will remember your charity to his
latest moments. The' traveller, as he leaves your port,
casts a longing, lingering look behind ; your attentions,
your hospitality, your pleasantry, and mirth are upper-
most in his thoughts j your prosperity is close to his
heart. Let us now, gentle reader, retire from the busy
scenes of man, and journey on towards the wilds in
quest of the feathered tribe.

Leave behind you your high-seasoned dishes, your

in.tn.ction» ^^'"^^ *°^ ^°^^ delicacies ; carry nothing but
t<) mture Bd- what is necessary for your own comfort, and
the object in view, and depend upon the
skill of an Indian, or your own, for fish and game. A
sheet, about twelve feet long, ten wide, painted, and with
loop-holes on each side, will be of great service; in a few
minutes you can suspend it betwixt two trees in the
shape of a roof. Under this, in your hammock, you
may defy the pelting shower, and sleep heedless of the
dews of night, A hat, a shirt, and a light pair of
trowsers will be all the raiment you require. Custom
will soon teach you to tread lightly and barefoot on the
little inequalities of the ground, and show you how to
pass on, unwounded, amid the mantling briers.

Snakes, in these wilds, are certainly an annoyance,
though, perhaps, more in imagination than
reality; for you must recollect that the

99

WANDEKIN08 IN SOUTH AMEiUCA.

Tigen.

Inicot*.

BlrcU.

§erpont \h nevor tho first to oirontl : liis poisonoun fang
was not givou him for conquusi : ho never inflicts a
wound with it but to dofond oxistenco. Provided you
walk cautiously, and do not absolutely touch him, you
nioy pass in Hafety close by liim. As he is often coiled
up on the ground, and amongst the branches of the
trees above you, a degree of ciioumspeotion is necessary,
lost you unwarily disturb him.

Tigers are too few, and too apt to fly before

the noble face of man, to requu-e a moment
of your attention.

Tlie bite of the most noxious of the

insects, at the very worst, only causes a
transient fever, with a degree of pain more or less.

Birds in general, with a few exceptions,

are not common in the very remote parts of
the forest. The sides of rivers, lakes, and creeks, the
borders of savannas, the old abandoned liabitations of
Indians and wood-cutters^ seem to be their favourite
haunts.

Though least in size, tho glittering mantle
^^nmming- ^f ^j^^ humming-bird entitles it to the first

place in the list of the birds of the new
world. It may truly be called the bird of paradise j
and had it existed in the old world, it would have
claimed the title instead of the bird which has now the
honour to bear it. See it darting through the air
almost as quick as thought ! — now it is within a yard of
your face ! — in an instant gone ; — now it flutters from
flower to flower to si^ the silver dew — it is now a ruby
— now a topaz — now an emerald — now all burnished
with gold ! It would be arrogant to pretend to describe
this winged gem of nature after Bufi'on's elegant de-
scription of it

AMBIUCA.

lul : his poisonouH fang
It : he never inflicts a
istenco. Provided you
lolutely toucli him, you
As he is often coiled
it tho branches of the
tinspection is necessary,

md too apt to fly before
n, to requii'o a moment

most noxious of the
worst, only causes a
puin more or less.

with a few exceptions,

he very remote parts of
lakes, and creeks, the

undoned liabitations of
to be their favourite

se, tho glittering mantle
[ entitles it to the first
the birds of the new
the bird of paradise j
world, it would have
aird which has now the
rting through tho air
w it is within a yard of
; — now it flutters from
dew — it is now a ruby
d — now all burnished
it to pretend to describe
)r Bufi'on's elegant de-

BBCOND .rOURNEY. 9f

Cayenne and Doniomra prndiico tho hmwo huniniin;^-
tinuntHr.f '''''''''• ^'u^liaps you would wish to know
l.ijlii""""""' '*""'^*'1'>"K "f thoir haunts. Chiefly in the
niontlm of July and Aui^ust, the tree called
Hois Ininiortol, very common in Denierara, bears nliun-
danco of rod bloaaom, which stays on tho tree for some
weeks ; then it is that most of tho dilForent 8i)ecio8 of
humniing-birdH are very i)lontiful. Tho wild red Hage is
also their favourite shnlb, and thoy buzz like bees round
tho blossom of tho wallaba-troc. Indeed, there is scarce u
flower in tho interior, or on tho sea-coast, but what receivea
fi'0(iuont visits from one or other of the species.

On entering tho forests, on the rising land in the in-
terior, the blue and green, the smallest brown, w^ bigger
than the humblo boe, with two long feathers in tho tail,
and the little forked-tail purplo-throated humming-birds,
glitter before you in ever-changing attitudes. One species
alone never shows his beauty in the sun ; and were it
not for his lovely shining colours, you might almost be
tempted to class him with the goat-suckers, on account
of his habits. He is the largest of all the humming-birds,
and is all red and changing gold green, except the head,
which is black. He has two long feathers in the tail,
which cross each otlior, and those have gained him the
name of Karabimiti, or Ara humming-bird, from the
Indiana. You never find him on the sea-coast, or where
tho river is salt, or in the heart of the forest, unless fresh
water be there. He "keeps close by the side of woody
fresh-^'ater rivers, and dark and lonely creeks. He leaves
his retreat before sunrise to feed on the insects over the
water ; he returns to it as soon as the sun's rays cause a
glare of light, is sedentary all day long, and comes out
again for a short time after sunset. Ho boilds hia nest

-V

M

98

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

on a twig over the water in the unfrequented creeks ; it
looks like tanned cow leather.

As you advance towards the mountains of Demerara,
other species of humming-birds present themselves before
you. It seems to be an erroneous opinion, that the hum-
ming-bird lives entirely on honey-dew. Almost every
flower of the tropical climates contains insects of one
kind or other; now, the humming-bird is most busy
about the flowers an hour or two after sunrise, and after a
shower of rain, and it is just at this time that the insects
come out to the edge of the flower, in order that the sim's
rays may dry the nocturnal dew and rain which they
have received. On opening the stomach of tlie hum-
ming-bird, dead insects are almost always found there.
Next to the humming-birds, the cotingas
0 ngaa. ^jgpj^y ^.j^g gayest plumage. They are of the
order of passeres, and you number five species Usuwixt
the sea-coast and the rock Saba. Perhaps the scarlet co-
tinga is the richest of the five, and is one of, those birds
which are found in the deepest recesses of the forest. His
crown is flaming red ; to this abruptly succeeds a dark
shining brown, reaching half way down the back : the
remainder of the back, ihe rump, and tail, the extremity
of which is edged with black, are a lively red ; the belly
is a somewhat lighter red ; the breast reddish black ; the
wings brown. He has no song, is solitary, and utters a
monotonous whistle which sounds like "quet." He is
fond of the seeds of the hitia-tree, and those of the
siloabali and bastard siloabali-trees, which ripen in
December, and continue on the trees for about two
months. He is found throughout the year in Demerara ;
still nothing is known of his incubation. The Indians all
agree in telling you that they have never seen his nest.

JTH AMERICA.

) unfrequented creeks ; it

mountains of Demerara,
wesent themselves before
18 opinion, that the hum-
ney-dew. Almost every
1 contains insects of one
iming-bird is most busy
J after sunrise, and after a
this time that the insects
er, in order that the sim's
jw and rain which they
he stomach of tlie hum-
most always found there,
iming-birds, the cotingas
plumage. They are of the
mber five species betwixt
I. Perhaps the scarlet co-
and is one of, those birds
recesses of the forest. His
abruptly succeeds a dark
way down the back : the
p, and tail, the extremity
re a lively red ; the belly
breast reddish black ; the
, is solitary, and utters a
ands like "quet." He is
i-tree, and those of the
li-trees, which ripen in
the trees for about two
ut the year in Demerara ;
cubation. The Indians all
iiave never seen his nest.

SECOND JOURNEY,

99

The Pom-
padour Co-
tinga.

The purple- ^he purple-breasted cotinga has the throat
bmiBted Co- anj breast of a deep purple, the wings and
tail black, and all the rest of the body a
most lively shining blue.

The pui'ple-throated cotinga has black wings and tail,
and every other part a light and glossy blue, save the
throat, which is purple.

The Pompadour cotinga is entirely purple, ex-
cept his wings, which are white, their four
iirst feathers tipped with brown. The great
coverts of the wings are stiff, narrow, and
pointed, being shaped quite diflensnt from those of any
other bird. When you are betwixt this bird and the
sun in his flight, he appears uncommonly brilliant. He
makes a hoarse noise, which sounds like " Wallababa."
Hence his name amongst the Indians.

l^one of these three cotingas have a song. They feed
on the hitia, siloabali, and bastard siloabali seeds, the
wild guava, the fig, and other fruit-trees of the forest.
They are easily shot in these trees during the months oi
December, January, and part of February. The greater
part of them disappear after this, and probably letiie
far away to breed. Their nests have never been found
in Demerara.
The &Ml species is the celebrated Campanero of the
The Cam- Spaniards, called Dara by the Indians, and
panero. BeU-bird by the English. He is about the

size of the jay. His plumage is white as snow. On
his forehead rises a spiral tube nearly three inches long.
It is jet black, dotted all over with small white feathers.
It has a communication with the palate, and when filled
with air, looks like a spire; when empty, it becomes
pendulous. His note is loud and clear, like the sound

h2

100

WANDERINGS IN 80UTH AMERICA.

of a bell, and may be heard at the distance of three
miles. In the midst of these extensive wilds, generally
on the dried top of an ftged mora, almost out of gun
reach, you will see the campanero. No sound or song
from any of the winged inhabitants of the forest, not
even the clearly pronounced "Whip-poor-will" from
the goat-sucker, causes such astonishment as the toll of
the campanero.

With many of the feathered race, he pays the common
tribute of a mommg and an evening song ; and even
when the meridian sun has shut in silence the mouths
of almost the whole of animated nature, the campanero
still cheers the forest. You hear his toll, and then a
pause for a minute, then another toll, and then a pause
again, and then a toll, and ^ain a pause. Then he is
silent for six or eight minutes, and then another toll,
and so on. Acteon would stop in mid chace, Maria would
defer her evening song, and Orpheus himself would drop
his lute to listen to him, so sweet, so novel, and romantic
is the toll of the pretty snow-white campanero. He is
never seen to feed with the other cotingas, nor is it
known in what part of Guiana he makes his nest

While the cotingas attract your attention
The Toucan. ^^ ^^^^ superior plumage, the singular form
of the toucan makes a lasting impression on your
memory. There are three species of toucans in Demerara,
and three diminutives, which may be called toucanets.
The largest of the first species frequents the mangrove
trees on the sea-coast. He is never seen in the interior
till you reach Macoushia, where he is found in the
neighbourhood of the river Tacatou. The other two
species are very common. They feed entirely on the
fruits of the forest, and though of the pie kind, never

r

t

rn AMERIIOA.

, the distance of three
Ltensive wilds, generally
aora, almost out of gun
jro. No sound or song
itants of the forest, not
'Whip-poor-will " from
onishment as the toll of

ace, he pays the common
ivening song ; and even
t in silence the mouths
a nature, the campanero
lear his toll, and then a
jr toll, and then a pause
in a pause. Then he is
and then another toll,
, mid chace, Maria woidd
iheus himself would drop
t, 80 novel, and romantic
'hite campanero. He is
)ther cotingas, nor is it
he makes his nest.
IS attract your attention
miage, the singular form
ig impression on your
) of toucans in Demerara,
lay be called toucanets.
frequents the mangrove
ever seen in the interior
jre he is found in the
acatou. The other two
ley feed entirely on the
1 of the pie kind, never

SECOND JOURNEY.

101

kill the young of other birds, or touch carrion. The
larger is called Bouradi by the Indians, (which means
nose,) the other, Scirou. They seem partial to each
other's company, and often resort to the same feeding
tree, and retire together to the same shady noon-day
retreat. They are very noisy in rainy weather at all hours
of the day, and in fair weather, at morn and eve. The
sound which the bouradi makes, ij like the clear yelping
of a puppy dog, and you fancy he says "pia-po-o-co," and
thus the South American Spaniards call him Piapoco.

All the toucanets feed on the same trees on which the
toucan feeds, and every species of this family of enor-
mous bill lays its eggs in the hollow trees. They are
social, but not gregarious. You may sometimes see
eight or ten in company, and from this you would
suppose they are gregarious ; but, upon a closer exami-
nation, you will find it has only been a dinner party,
which breaks up and disperses towards roosting time.

You will be at a loss to conjecture for what ends
nature has overloaded the head of this bird with such an
enormous bill It cannot be for the oflfensive, as it has
no need to wage war with any of the tribes of animated
nature ; for its food is fruits and seeds, and those are
in superabundance throughout the whole year in the
regions where the toucan is found. It can hardly be
for the defensive, as the toucan is preyed upon by no
bird in South America, and were it obliged to be at
war, the texture of the bill is ill adapted to give or
receive blows, as you will see in dissecting it It can-
not be for any particular protection to the tongue, as,
the tongue is a perfect feather.

The flight of the toucan is by jerks ; in
the action of flying it seems incommoded by

Its flight.

102

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

r

this huge disproportioned feature, and the head seems
as if bowed down to the earth by it against its will.
If the extraordinary form and size of the bill expose
the toucan to ridicule, its coloiu's make it amends.

Were a specimen of each species of the
Colours of toucan presented to you, you would pro-
nounco the bill of the bouradi the most rich
and beautiful ; on the ridge of the upper mandible a
broad stripe of most lovely yellow extends from tLe
head to the point ; a stripe of the same breadth, though
somewhat deeper yellow, falls from: it at right angles
next the head down to the edge of the mandible ; then
follows a black stripe, half as broad, falling at right
angles from the ridge, and running narrower along the
edge to within half an inch of the point The rest of
the mandible is a deep bright red. The lower mandible
has no yellow ; its black and red are distributed in the
same manner as on the upper one, with this difference,
that there is black about an inch from the point. The
stripe corresponding to the deep yellow stripe on the
upper mandible is sky blue. It is worthy of remark
that all these brilliant colours of the bill are to be
found in the plumage of the body, and the bare skin
round the eye.

All these colours, except the blue, are inherent in
the horn ; that part which appears blue is in reality
transparent white, and receives its colour from a thin
piece of blue skin inside. This superb bill fades in
death, and in three or four days' time, has quite lost its
original colours.

Till within these few years, no idea of the true colours
of the bill could be formed from the stuffed toucans
brought to Europe. About eight years ago, while eating

t
1

3
i:
a
d
b
e:

b

ii^

•

lUTH AMERICA.

re, and the head seems
;h by it against its will,
size of the bill expose
L's make it amends.

of each species of the
) you, you would pro-
le boupadi the most rich
f the upper mandible a
ellow extends from tLe
he same breadth, though

from: it at right angles
B of the mandible ; then
5 broad, falling at right
tiing narrower along the
' the point The rest of
•ed. The lower mandible
ed are distributed in the
)ne, with this difference,
ch from the point. The
Bep yellow stripe on the

It is worthy of remark
8 of the bill are to be

body, and the bare skin

e blue, are inherent in
ipears blue is in reality
s its colour from a thin
lis superb bill fades in
s' time, has quite lost its

10 idea of the true colours
from the sttiffed toucans
bt years ago, while eating

SECOND .TOURNEY.

103

a boiled toucan, the thought struck me that the colours
in the bill of a preserved specimen might be kept as
Preserves ^"S^^* ^^ tho«c in life. A series of experiments
Toucan?' "'" P"^"^®^ ^^"^ boyond a doubt. If you take
your penknife and cut away the roof of the
upper mandible, you will find that the space betwixt it
and the outer shell contains a large collection of veins,
and small osseous fibres runnmg in all directions
through the whole extent of the bill. Clear away all
these with your knife, and you will come to a substance
more firm than skin, but of not so strong a texture as
the horn itself; cut this away also, and behind it is
discovered a thin and tender membrane ; yellow, where
it has touched the yellow part of the horn; blue, where
it has touched the red part, and black towards the edge
and point When dried, this thin and tender membrane
becomes nearly black ; as soon as it is cut away, nothing
remains but the outer horn, red and yellow, and now
become transparent; the under mandible must undergo
the same operation. Great care must be taken, and the
knife used very cautiously, when you are cutting through
the different parts close to where the bill joins on to the
head. If you cut away too much, the bill drops off; if
you press too hard, the knife comes through the horn ;
if you leave too great a portion of the membrane, it
appears through the i^or^, and by becoming black when
driod, makes the horn appear black also, and has a
bad effect ; judgment, caution, skill, and practice, will
ensure success.

You have now cleared the bill of all those bodies
which are the cause of its apparent fading ; for, as has
been said before, these bodies dry in death, and become
quite discoloured, and appear so through the horn ; and

dfaia

104

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

11

reviewing the bill in this state, you conclude that itB
former bright colours are lost.

Something still remains to be done. You have ren-
dered the bill transparent by the operation, and that
transparency must be done away to make it appear
perfectly natural. Pound some clean chalk, and give it
enough water till it, be of the consistency of tar ; add
a proportion of gum arable to make it adhesive ; then
take a camel-hair brush, and give the inside of both
mandibles a coat ; apply a second when the first is dry,
then another, and a fourth to finish all. The gum
arable will prevent the chalk from cracking and falling
oflf. If you remember, there is a little space of trans-
parent white in the lower mandible, which originally
appeared blue, but which became transparent white as
«oon as the tiiin piece of blue skin was cut away ; this
must be painted blue inside. "When aU this is com-
pleted, the bill will please you ; it will appear in its
original coloiirs. .Probably your own abilities will
suggest a cleverer mode of operating than the mode
here described. A small gouge would assist the- pen-
knife, and render the operation less difficult.

The Houtou ranks high in beauty amongst
the birds of Demerara ; his whole body is
green, with a bluish cast in the wings and tail ; his
crown, which he erects at pleasure, consists of black in
the centre, surrounded with lovely blue of two different
shades : he has a triangular black spot, edged with blue,
behind the eye extending to the eair ; and on his breast
a sable tuft, consisting of nine feathers edged also with
blue. This bird seems to suppose that its beauty can
be increased by trimming the tail, which undergoes
the same operation as our hair in a barber's shop, only

The Houtou.

JkM

».

TH AHERIOA.

), you conclude that its

) done. You have ren-
the operation, and that
way to make it appear
clean chalk, and give it
consistency of tar ; add
make it adhesive; then
jive the inside of both
nd when the first is dry,

0 finish all. The gum
rom cracking and falling
is a little space of trans-
andible, which originally
me transparent white as
skin was cut away ; this

When all this is com-
)u ; it will appear in its
your own abilities will
perating than the mode
^e would assist the- pen-

1 less difficult.

cs high in beauty amongst
jrara ; his whole body is
the wings and tail ; his
BUi-e, consists of black in
rely blue of two different
ick spot, edged with blue,
le eair ; and on his breast
) feathers edged also with
ipose that its beauty can
le tail, which undergoes
r in a barber's shop, only

8EC0ND JOURNBT.

100

Its haunts.

with this difference, that it uses its own beak, which
is serrated, in lieu of a pair of sciasors. As soon as his
tail is full grown, he begins about an inch froin the
extremity of the two longest feathers in it, and cuts
away the web on both sides of the shaft, making a gap
about an inch long : both male and female Adonise
their tails in this manner, which gives them a remark-
able appearance amongst all other birds. While we
consider the tail of the houtou blemished and defective,
were he to come amongst us, he would probably con-
sider our heads, cropped and bald, in no better light.
He who wishes to observe this handsome
bird in his native haunts, must be in the
forest at the morning's dawn. The houtou shuns the
society of man : the plantations and cultivated parts are
too much disturbed to engage it to settle there ; the thick
and gloomy forests are the places preferred by the soli-
tary houtou. In those far-extending wilds, about day-
break, you hear him articulate, in a distinct and mourn-
ful tone, "houtou, houtou." Move cautiously on to
where the sound proceeds from, and you will see him
sitting in the underwood, about a couple of yards from
the ground, his tail moving up and down every time
he articulates " houtou." He lives on insects and the
berries amongst the underwood, and very rarely is seen
in the lofty trees, except the bastard siloabali-tree, the
fruit of which is grateful to him. He makes no nest,
but rears his young in a hole in the sand, generally on
the side of a hill.

While in quest of the houtou, you will now and

then fall in with the jay of Guiana, called by the

The Jay of I^'^i*"'' Ibibirou. Its forehead is black, the

Guiana. rest of the head white; the throat and

ssistita

106

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

The Boclora.

breast like the English magpie : about an inch of the
extremity of the tail is white, the other part of it,
together with the back and wings, a greyish changing
purple ; the belly is white. There are generally six or
eight of them in company ; they are shy and garrulous,
and tarry a very short time in one place j they are
never seen in the cultivated parts.

Through the whole extent of the forest, chiefly from
sunrise till nine o'clock in the morning, you hear a
sound of " wow, wow, wow, wow." This is the bird
called Boclora by the Indians. It is smaller
than the common pigeon, and seems, in some
measure, to partake of its nature : its head and breaist
are blue ; the back and rump somewhat resemble the
colour on the pea(jock'8 neck; its belly is a bright
yellow ; the legs ai'e so very short that it always appears
as if sitting on the branch ; it is as ill adapted for
walking as the swallow j its neck, for about an inch all
round, is quite bare of feathers ; but this deficiency is
not seen, for it always sits with its head drawn in upon
its shoulders. It sometimes feeds with the cotingas on
the guava and hitia-trees ; but its chief nutriment
seems to be insects, and, like most birds which follow
this prey, its chaps are well armed with bristles : it is
found in Domerara at all times of the year, and makes
a nest resembling that of the stock dove. This bird
never takea long flights, and when it crosses a river or
creek, it goes by long jerks.

The l)oclora is very unsuspicious, appearing quite
heedless of danger : the report of a gun within twenty
yards will not cause it to leave the branch on which it
is sitting, and you may often approach it so near as
almost to touch it with the end of your bow. Perhaps

■A*i

'B AMERICA.

about an inch of the
the other part of it,
p, a greyish changing
re are generally six or
are shy and garrulous,
one pkce; they are

he forest, chiefly from
morning, you hear a
w." This is the bird
ndians. It is smaller
u, and seems, in some
I : its head and breast
mewhat resemble the
ts belly is a bright
that it always appears
is as ill adapted for
, for about an inch all
but this deficiency is
i head drawn in upon
with the cotingas on
its chief nutriment
it birds which follow
d with bristles : it is
' the year, and makes
ock dove. This bird
1 it crosses a river or

ous, appearing quite
a gun within twenty
le branch on which it
proach it so near as
your bow. Perhaps

SECONP JOURNEY.

107

TheCulo.

there is no bird known whose feathers are so slightly
fixed to the skin as those of the boclora. After shoot-
ing it, if it touch a branch in its descent, or if it drop
on hard ground, whole heaps of feathers fall off : on
this account it is extremely hard to procure a specimen
for preservation As soon as the skin is dry in the
preserved specimen, the feathers become as well fixed
as those in any other bird.

Another species, larger than the boclora,

attracts much of your notice in these wilds :
it is called Cuia by the Indians, from the sound of its
voice ; its habits are the same as those of the boclora,
but its colours different; its head, breast, back, and
rump, are a shining, changing green ; its tail not
quite so bright; a black bar runs across the tail to-
wards the extremity, and the outside feathers are
partly white as in the boclora ; its belly is entirely ver-
milion, a bar of white separating it from the green on
the breast.

There are diminutives of both these birds ; they
have the same habits, with a somewhat different
plumage, and about half the size. Arrayed from head

to tail in a robe of richest sable hue, the
bird.' ***^ ^"^ called Eice-bitd loves spots cidtivated

by the hand of man. The woodcutter's
house on the hills in the interior, and the planter's
habitation on the sea-coast, equally attract this songless
species of tl^e order of pie, provided the Indian corn
be ripe there. He is nearly of the jackd.iw's size, and
makes his nest far away from the haunts of men ; he
may truly be called a blackbird : independent of his
plumage, his beak, inside and out, his legs, his toes,
and claws are jet black.

108

WANDEniNQS IN SOUTH AMCnjCA.

Mankind, by clearing the ground, and sowing a
variety of seeds, induces many kinds of hirds to leave
their native haunts, and come and settle near him :
their little depredations on his seeds ond fruits prove
that it is the property, and not the proprietor, which
has the attractions.

One bird, however, in Domorara is not
■ique." ^^' actuated by selfish motives : this is the
Cassique ; in size, he is larger than th6 star-
ling; he courts the society of man, but disdains to
live by his labours. When nature calls for support,
he repairs to the neighbouring forest, and there par-
takes of the store of fruits and seeds which she has
produced in abundance for hor aerial tribes. When
his repast is over, he returns to man, and pays the little
tribute which he owes him for his protection ; he takes
his station on a tree oloae to his house, and there, for
hours together, pours forth a succession of imitative
notto. His own song is sweet, but very short. If a
toucan be yelping in the neighbourhood, he drops it,
and imitates him. Then he will amuse his protector
with the cries of the diflferent species of the wood-
pecker ; and when the sheep bleat, he will distinctly
answer them. Then comes his own song again, and if
a puppy dog, or a Guinea fowl interrupt him, he takes
them oflF admirably, and by his different gestures
during the time, you would conclude that he eiyoys
the sport.

The cassique is gregarious, and imitates any sound
he hears with such exactness, that he goes by no other
name than that of Mocking-bird amongst the colonists.

At breeding time, a number of the pretty choristers
resort to a tree near the planter's house, and from its

H AMCniCA.

[round, and sowing a
jnds of hirdfl to loavo
and Bottle near him :
seeds and fruits prove
the proprietor, which

, in Domerora is not
motives : this is the
is larger than th6 star-
man, but disdains to
ure calls for support,
forest, and there par-
seeds which she has
aerial tribes. When
aan, and pays the little
s protection ; he takes
i house, and there, for
accession of imitative
but very short. If a
boufhood, he drops it,
1 amuse his protector
species of the wood-
eat, he will distinctly
)wn song again, and if
Qtorrupt him, he takes
[lis different gestures
iclude that he enjoys

id imitates any sound
at he goes by no other
amongst the colonists.
f the pretty choristers
■'s house, and from its

SKCOXD JOURNET.

109

outside branches weave their penduloiin nosts. So
conscious do thoy seem that thoy never give ott'ence,
and 80 little suspicious are thoy of receiving any injury
from man, that they will choose a tree within forty
yards from his house, and occupy the branches so low
down, that he may peep into tho nests. A tree in
Waratilla creek affords a i)roof of this.

Tho proportions of the cassiquo are so fine, that he
may bo said to bo a rtodol of symmetry in ornithology.
On each wing he has a bright yellow spot, and his
rump, holly, and half the tail, are of tho same colour.
All the rest of the body is black. His beak is the
colour of sulphur, but it fades in death, and requires
the same operation as the bill of the toucan to make it
keep its colours. Up the rivers, in the interior, there
is another cassique, nearly the same size, and of the
same habits, though not gifted with its powers of imi-
tation. Except in breeding time, you will see hundreds
of them retiring to roost, amongst the moca-moca-trees
and low shrubs on the banks of the Demorara, after
you pass the first island. They are not common on
the sea-coast. The rump of the cassique is a flaming
scarlet. All the rest of the body is a rich glossy black.
His bill is sulphur colour. You may often see numbers
of this species weaving their pendulous nests on one
side of a tree, while numbers of the other species are
busy in forming theirs on the opposite side of the same
tree. Though such near neighbours, the females are
never observed to kick up a row, or come to blows !
Another species of cassique, as large as a crow, is
Another ^^^ commou in the plantations. In the
Bpeciesofthe moming he generally repairs to a large tree,
and there, with Lis tail spread over his back,

^iC»4.!Jt& fl.':4>MlU«tt^«

^■■imm

no

WANDBRINOB IN HOUTH AMERICA.

uinl MliiikiiiK hia lowored wingd, ho pnMlucos notes
which though thoy cannot be m'ul to amount to a nniig,
Htill hiivo wmii'tliinK v«ry hwooI and pleasing in t.iom.
Ho makes his nont in the sumo form oa the other
casBiiiut'H. It is above four feet h)ng ; ami wlien you "
pass under the tree, which often contains tifty or sixty
of them, you cannot help stopping to admire them as
they wave to and fro, the sport of every storm and
breeze. The rump is chestnut ; ton feathers of the
tail are a tino yellow, the remaining two, which aro tho
middle ones, are black, and an inch shorter than tho
others. His bill is sulphur colour ; all tho rest of tho
body black, with hero and there shades of brown. Ho
has fivo or I ix long narrow black feathers on the back
of his head, which he erects at ploasure.

There is one more species of cassitiuo in Demorara,
which always prefers the forests to tho cidtivated parts.
His economy is tho same as that of tho other cossiques.
He is rather smaller than the last described bird. His
body is greenish, and his tail and rump paler than those
of the former. Half of his beak is red.

You would not bo long in the forests of
(Tera'' Demorara, without noticing the woodpeckers.
You meet with them feeding at all hours of
the day. Well may they do so. Were they to follow
the example of most of the other birds, and only food
in the morning and evening, they would be often on
short allowance, for they sometimes have to labour
three or four hours at the tree before they get to their
food. The sound which the largest kind makes in
hammering against the bark of the tree, is so loud, that
you would never suppose it to proceed from the efforts
of a bird. You would take it to be the woodman, with

MMM

ril AMRRIOA.

[{«, ho proiUicoH notes
id to amount to a ^oiig,
. and pleasing in l.icni.
imo forni aa tho other
ot long ; and when you "
I contiiins lil'ty or Hixty
ling to admire them aa
)rt of every storin and
t ; ton feathers of tho
ling two, which are tho
inch aliorter than tho
Dur ; all tho rest of tho
shades of brown. Ho
k feathers on the back
pleasure.

cassiiiuo in Demcrara,
to tho cultivated parts.
i of tho other cassiques.
st described bird. His
1 rump paler than those
,k is red.

3 long in the forests of
)ticing tho woodpeckers.
. feeding at all hours of
Were they to follow
or birds, and only feed
hey would be often on
etimes have to labour
before they get to their
largest kind makes in
he tree, is so loud, that
proceed from the efforts
) be the woodman, with

8E('*)Nn JOUUNKY.

in

Ii'm axe, trying l,y a sturdy l)Iow, often ropoat.'d,
wlietln r thij tree wi-re soiiiul or not. There am fmir-
ti'un Bpi'.inM hero ; the largest tlie sizo of a nmgpio, the
smalK'Ht no bigger tliun tho wren. They are ull benuti-
fill ; and tho gruator part "f them Imvo thtiir heads
ornanientud Avith a fine crcHt, movable at ploiiHure.

It is said if you onco give a dog a bad name, whuther
innocent or guilty, ho never loses it. It sticks close tt)
him whorover ho goew. Ho has many a kick and many
a blow to bear on account of it ; and there is nobody
to stond up for him. The woodpecker is little better
off. Tho proprietors of woods, in Europe, have long
accused him of injuring their timber, by boring holes
in it, and lotting in tho water, which soon rots it. Tho
colonists in America have tho same complaint against
him. Had ho the power of speech, which Ovid's birds
jtossossed in days of yore, he could soon make a defence.
" Mighty lord of the woods," he would say to man,
" why do you wrongfully accuse mo ? why do you hunt
me up and down to death for an imaginary offimco t I
have never spoiled a leaf of your property, much loss
your wood. Your me^rciless shot strikes mo, at the
very time I am doing you a service. But your short-
sightedness will not let you see it, or your pride is above
examining closely the actions of so insignificant a little
bird as I am. If there bo that spark of feeling in
your breast, which they say man possesses, or ought to
possess, above all other animals, do a poor injured
creature a little kindness, and watch me in your woods
only for one day. I never wound your healthy trees.
I should perish for want in the attempt. The sound
bark would easily resist the force of my bill ; and were
I even to pierce through it, there would be nothing

■MM

Mm

^

ua

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

inside that I could fancy, or my stomach digest. I
often visit them, it is true, but a knock or two convince
me that I must go elsewhere for support ; and were you
to listen attentively to the sound which my hill causes,
you would know whether I am upon a healthy or an
unhealthy tree. Wood and bark are not ]py food. I
live entirely upon the insects which have already formed
a lodgement in the distempered tree. When the sound
informs me that my prey is there, I labour for hours
together till I get at it ; and by consuming it, for my
own support, I prevent its further depredations in that
part. Thus I discover for you your hidden and un-
suspected foe, which has been devouring yoiir wood in
such secrecy, that you had not the least suspicion it
was there. The hole which I make in order to get at
the pernicious vermin, will be seen by you as you pass
under the tree. I leave it as a signal to tell you, that
your tree has already stood too long. It is past its
prime. Millions of insects, engendered by disease, are
preying upon its vitals. Ere long it will fall a log in
useless ruins. Warned by this loss, cut down the rest
in time, and spare, O spare the unoffending wood-
pecker."

In the rivers, and different creeks, you
"T^Kin*- number sis species of the King-fisher. They
xa&ke their nest in a hole in the sand on the
side of the bank. As ther^ is always plenty of foliage
to protect them from the heat of the sun, they feed at
all hours of tlie day. Though their plumage is prettily
varied, still it fisdls far short of the brilliancy dis-
played by the English iing-fisher. This little native
of Britain would outweigh them altogether in the scale
of beauty.

4p

^^

a AMERICA.

ny stomach digest. I
knock or two convince
support ; and were you
I which my hill causes,
. upon a healthy or an
•k are not ipy food. I
ch have already formed
tree. When the sound
tore, I labour for hours
Y consuming it, for my
ler depredations in that
u your hidden and un-
levouring yoiir wood in
, the least suspicion it
make in order to get at
leen by you as you pass
signal to tell you, that
)0 long. It is past its
;endered by disease, are
ong it will fall a log in
loss, cut down the rest
the unoffenduig wood-

i different creeks, you
f the King-fisher. They
hole in the sand on the
ilways plenty of foliage
rf the sun, they feed at
their plumage is prettily
; of the brilliancy dis-
iher. This little native
X altogether in the scale

SECOND JODBNEY,

118

The Jaoft-
niar.

4p

A bird called Jacamar is often taken for a
king-fisher, but it has no relationship to that
tribe ; it frequently sits in the trees over the
water, and as its beak bears some resemblance to that of
the king-fisher, this may probably account for its being
taken for on«. It feeds entirely upon insects ; it sits on
a branch in motionless expectation, and as soon as a fly,
butterfly, or moth passes by, it darts at it, and returns
to the branch it had jUst left. It seems an indolent,
sedentary bird, shunning the society of all others in the
forest. It never visits the plantations, but is found at
all times of the year in the woods. There are four species
of jacamar m Demerara; they are all beautiful; the
largest, rich and superb in the extreme. Its plumage is
of so fine a changing blue and golden green, that it may
be ranked with the choicest of the humming-birds, m.
ture has denied it a song, but given a costly garment in
lieu of it. The smallest species of jacamar is very common
in the dry savannas. The second size, all golden green
on the hack, must be looked for in the wallaba forest.
The third is found throughout the whole extent of these
wads ; and the fourth, which is the largest, frequenU
the interior, where you begin to perceive stones in the
ground.

When you have penetrated far into Ma-
pJt '^''' coushia, you hear the pretty songster, called
Troupiale, pour forth a variety of sweet and
plaintive notes. This is the bird which the Portuguese
caU the nightingale of Guiana ; its predominant colours
are rich orange and shining black, arrayed to great
advantage ; his delicate and weU-shaped fiame seems
unable to bear captivity. The Indians sometimes brmg
down troupiales t'- Stabroek, but in a few months they

mmmmmmmmmmmmmm

lU

WANDEBINGB IK SOUTH AHBRIOA.

li

7

languish and die in a cage. They soon become very
familiar ; and if yon allow them the liberty of the house,
they live longer than in a cage, and appear in better
spirits ; but, when you least expect it, they drop down
and die in epilepsy.

Smaller in size, and of colour not so rich,
des'of i5Su- and somewhat differently anranged, another
'^''' species of ttoupiale sings melodiously in

Demeraxa. The woodcutter is particularly favoured
by him ; for while' the hen is sitting on her nest built
in the roof of the woodcutter's house, he sings for hours
together close by : he prefers the forests to the culti-
vated parts.
You would not grudge to stop few a few minutes as
you are walking in the plantations, to ob-
eies of Tron- serve a third species of troupiale : his wings,
''*''■ tail, and throat are black, all the rest of the

body is a bright yellow. There is something very sweet
and plaintive in his song, though much shorter than
that of the troupiale in the interior.

A fourth species goes in flocks from place
«te8°of "tna- to place in the cultivated parts at the time
' "' tiie Indian com is ripe ; he is all black,

except the head and throat, which are yellow j his
aiitanpt at song is not worth attending to.'

Wherever there is a wild fig-tree ripe, a
^T*ng«»»pe- ntunerons species of birds, called Tangara, is
sure to be on it. There are eighteen beau-
tiftil species here. Their plumage is very rich and
diversified ; some of them boast six separate colours ;
others have the blue, purple, green, and black so '-indly
blended into each other, that it would be impossible to
mark their boundaries; while others again exhibit them

TH AMERICA.. '

They soon become very
the liberty of the house,
I, and appear in better
pect it, they drop down

id of colour not so rich,
rently ananged, another
I sings melodiously in
I particularly favoured
litting on her nest built
louse, he sings for hours
the forests to the culti-

)p f<»' a few minutes as
L the plantations, to ob-
of troupiale : his wings,
)lack, all the rest of the
is something very sweet
ragh much shorter than
irior.

;;oes in flbcks from place
Ivated parts at the time
ripe ; he is all black,
which are yellow j his
tending to.'

is a wild fig-tree ripe, a
birds, called Tangara, is
!here are eighteen beau-
image is very rich and
ast six separate colours ;
reen, and black so ''indly
t would be impossible to
ithers again exhibit them

SECOND JOUBNBT. H(f

strong, distinct, and abrupt : many of these tangaraa
have a fine song. They seem to partake much of the
nature of our linnets, sparrows, and finches. Some of
them are fond of the plantations ; others are never seen
there, preferring the wild seeds of the forest to the
choicest fruits planted by the hand of man.

On the same fig-trees to yrhkh they repair,
8peci"!"° a»d often accidentally up and down the
forest, yoii fall in with four species of
Manikin. The largest is white and l^Ack, with the
feathers on the throat remarb^bly long ; the next in mze
is half red and half black ; t^ third, black, with a white
crown ; the fourth, black, with a golden, crown, and red
feathers at the knee. The half red and half black
species is the scarcest There is a creek in the Demerara
called Camouni About ten minutes from the mouth
you see a common-sized fig-tree on your right hand, as
you ascend, hanging over water ; it bears a very small
fig twice a year. When its fruit is ripe, this manikin
is on the tree from mom till eve.

On all the ripo fig-trees in the forest you
ti^wSl" "«» tJ*® ^"^ called the small Tiger-bird.
Like some of our belles and dandies, it has a
gaudy vest to veil an ill-shaped body; the throat, and
part of the head, are a bright red ; the breast and belly
have black spots on a yellow ground ; the wings are a
dark green, black, and white ; and the rump and tail
black and green. Like tbe manikin, it has no song : it
depends solely upon a showy garment for admiration.
Devoid, too, of song, and in a still superber garb, the
Yawaraciri comes to feed on the same tree.
It has a bar like black velvet from the eyes
to the beak; its legs are yellow ; its throat,
i2 ■

The Ya-
waraciri,

it4MMS^%i»^f<i.t»(giur!i^y-^

MHHi<IP«liPilH

du*

116

WANOERINOB IN SOUTH AMEBIOA.

wings, and tail, "black ; all the rest of the body a chMm-
ing blue. Chiefly in the dry saraunaa, and here and
there accidentally in the forest, you see a songless
yawaraciri still lovelier than the last : his crown is
whitish blue, arrayed like a coat of mail ; his tail is
black, his wings black and yellow ; legs red ; and the
whole ' jdy a glossy blue. Whilst roving through the
forest, ever and anon you see individuals of the wren
species, busy amongst the fallen leaves, or seeking in-
sects at the roots of the trees.

Here, too, you find six or seven species of small birds,
whose backs appear to be overloaded with silky plumage.
One of these, with a chestnut breast, smoke-coloured
back, tail red, white feathers like horns on his head,
and white narrow-pointed feathers under the jaw, feeds
entirely upon ants. When a nest of large light brown
ants emigrates, one following the other in meandering
lines above a mile long, you see this bird watching
them, and every now and then picking them up. When
they disappear he is seen no more : perhaps this is the
only kind of ant he is fond of : when these ants are
stirring, you are sure to find him near them. You can-
not well mistake the ant after you have once
been in its company, for its sting is very
severe, and you can hardly shoot the bird, and pick it
up, without having five or six upon you.
Parrots and Carrots and Paroiiuets are very numerous
Panxiueto. jiere^ and of many different kinds. You will
know when they are near you in the forest, not only by
the noise they make, but also by the fruits and seeds
which they let fail while they are feeding.

The Hia-hia parrot, called in England the
parrot of the sun, is very remarkable : ho can

Ants.

I'lHwiiliWirii'^i

'iiMa

H AMEBIOA.

it of the body a chMm-
.vaunaa, and here and
t, you see a songless
iie last : his crown is
}at of mail ; his tail is
iw ; legs red ; and the
list roving through the
adividuals of the wren
leaves, or seeking in-

1 species of small birds,
ded with silky plumage,
breast, smoke-coloured
ke horns on his head,
irs under the jaw, feeds
at of large light brown
9 other in meandering
lee this bird watching
icking them up. When
re : perhaps this is the
: when these ants are
1 near them. Tou cw-
ant after you have once
, for its sting is very
t the bird, and pick it
pon you.

uets are very numerous
ifferent kinds. You will
1 the forest, not only by
ty the fruits and seeds
re feeding.

t, called in England the
reiy remarkable : he can

SECOND JOURNEY.

117

erect at pleasure a fine radiated circle of tartan feathers
quite round the back of his head from jaw to jaw. The
fore part of his head is white; his back, tail, and wings,
green ; and his breast and belly, tartan.
The Are. Superior in size and beauty to nvery parrot
of South America, the Ara will force you to
take yoar eyes from the rest of animated nature, and
gaze at him : his commanding strength, the flaming
scarlet of his body, the lovely variety of red, yeUow,
blue, and green in his wings, the extraordinary length
of his scarlet and blue tail, seem all to join and demand
for him the title of emperor of all the parrots. He is
scarce in Demerara till you reach the confines of the
Macoushi country; there he is in vast abundance ; he
mostly feeds on trees of the palm species. When the
coucourite-treea have ripe fruit on them, they are covered
with this magnificent parrot : he is not shy or wary ;
you may take your blow-pipe and quiver of poisoned
arrows, and kill more than you are able to carry back
to your hut. They are very vociferous, and, like the
common parrots, rise up in bodies towards sunset, and
fly two and two to their place of rest. It is a grand
sight in ornithology to see thousands of aras flying over
your head, low enough to let you have a fuU view of
their flaming mantle. The Indians find their flesh very
good, and the feathers serve for ornaments in their
headdresses. They breed in the holes of trees, are
easily reared and tamed, and learn to speak pretty
distinctly.

Another species frequents the low lands of Demerara.
He is nearly the size of the scarlet ara, but much in-
ferior in plumage. Blue and yellow are his predomi-
nant colours.

ns

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

Th« Bittern Along the creeks and river aides, and in
the wet savannas, six species of the Bittern
will engage your attention. They are all handsome.
The smallest not so large as the English water-hen.

In the savannas, too, you will sometimes
whHe BtoStte si"P™e the Snow-white Egrette, whose back
is adorned with the plumes from which it
takes its name. Here too the spur-wiaged water-hen,
the blue and green water-hen, and two other species of
ordinary plumage, are found. While in quest of these,
the blue heron, the large and small brown heron, the
boat-bill, and Muscovy duck, now and then rise up
before you.

When the sun has sunk in the western woods, no

longer agitated by the breeze j when you can only see

a straggler or two of the feathered tribe hastening to

join its rnate^ already at its roosting-place,

Backer *'°**' *^®° '* ^ *^**' *^® gofttsucker comes out of
the forest, where it has sat all day long in
slumbering ease, unmindful of the gay and busy scenes
around it. Its eyes are too delicately formed to bear the
light, and thus it is forced to shun the flaming face of
dayi and wait in patience till Night invites him to par-
take of the pleasures her dusky presence briilgs.

The harmlesb, unoffending goatsucker, from the time
of Aristotle down to the present day, has been in
disgrace with man. Father has handed down to son,
and author to author, that this nocturnal thief subsists
by milking the flocks. Poor iiyured little bird of night,
how sadly hast thou suffered, and bow foul a stain has
inattention to facts put upon thy character ! Thou hast
never robbed matf of any part of his propeirty, nor
deprived the kid of a drop of milk.

.J.tM

WHHMiM

illMI

:H AMERICA.

md river sides, and in
species of the Bittern
liey are all handsome.
English water-hen.
50, you will sometimes
lite Egrette, whose back
plumes from which it
spur-wiaged water-hen,
id two other species of
Vhile in quest of these,
mall brown heron, the
low and then rise up

the western woods, no
rhen you can only see
Bred tribe hastening to
J at its Toosting-place,
goatsucker comes out of
las sat all day long in
de gay and busy scenes
tely formed to bear the
lun the flaming face of
ght invites him to par-
presence briiigs.
itsucker, from the time
3nt day, has been in
handed down to son,
loctumal thief subsists
ired Yiiilh bird of night,
d how foul a stain has
J character ! Thou hast
I; of his propeirty, nor
Ik.

SEOOND JOCRNBT.

119

Its plumage.

When the moon shines bright, you may have a fair
opportunity of examining the goatsucker. You will see
it close by the cows, goats, and sheep, jumping up eveiy
now and then, under their belliea Approach .a little
nearer, — he is not shy, "he fears no danger, for he knows
no sin." See how the nocturnal flies are tormenting the
herd, and with what dexterity he springs up and catches
them, as ta&i as they alight on the belly, legs, and udder
of the animals. Observe how quiet they stand, and how
sensible they seem of his good offices, for they neither
strike at him, nor hit him with their tail, nor tread on
him, nor try to drive him away as an uncivil intruder.
Were you to dissect him, and inspect his stomach, you
would find no milk there. It is full of the flies which
have been anno3ring the herd.

The prettily mottled plumage of the goat-
sucker, like that of the owl, wonts the lustre
which is observed in the feathers of the birds of day.
This, at once, marks him as a lover of the pale moon's
nightly beams. There are nine egpedes here. The largest
appears nearly the size of the English wood owL Its cry
is so remarkable, that having once heard it you will never
forget it. When night reigns over these immeasurable
wilds, whilst lying in yeur hammock, you will hear this
goatsucker lamenting like one in deep distress. A
stranger would never conceive it to be the cry of a bird.
He would say it was the departing voice of a midnight
murdered victim, or the last wailing of Niobe for her
poor children, before she was turned into stone. Sup-
pose yourself in hopeless sorrow, begin with a high loud
uot^ and pronounce, "ha, ha, ha, ha, ha, ha, ha," each
note lower and lower, till the last is scarcely heard,
pausing a moment or two betwixt every note^ and you

m»mi^mm^^0^m^?mmsm»'''^

gtm

120

WANDKRINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

will have some idea of tbe moaning of the largest goat-
sucker in Demerara.

Four other species of the goatsucker articulate some

/^ words 80 distinctly, that they have received their names
from the sentences they utter, and absolutely bewilder
tho stranger on his arrival in these parts. The most
common one sits down close by your door, and flies and
alights three or four yards before you, as you walk along
the road, crying, " Who-are-you, who-who-who-are-you."
Another bids you, "Work-away, work-work-work-away."
A third cries, mournfully, " Willy-come-go. WiUy-
Willy-Willy-come-go." And high up in the country,
a fourth tells you to " Whip-poor-Will. Whip-whip-
whip-poor-Will."

You will never persuade the negro to destroy these
birds, or get the Indian to let fly his arrow at them.
They are birds of omen, and reverential dread. Jumbo,
the demon of Africa, has them under his command ; and
they equally obey the Yabahou, or Demerara Indian

' devil. They are the receptacles for departed souls, who

come back again to earth, unable to rest for crimes done
in their days of nature ; or they are expressly sent by
Jumbo, or Yabahou, to haunt cruel and hard-hearted
masters, and retaliate injuries received from them. If
the largest goatsucker chance to cry near the white man's
door, sorrow and grief will soon be inside ; and they ex-
pect to see the master waste away with a slow consum-
ing sickness. If it be heard close to the negro's or
Indian's hul^ from that night misfortune sits brooding
over it ; and they awut the event in terrible suspense.
You will forgive the poor Indian of Guiana for this.
He knows no better ; he has nobody to teach him. Sut
flhame it is, that in our own civilized country, the black

ita

TR AMERICA.

]ing of the largest goat-

itsucker articulate some
ve received their names
uid absolutely bewilder
these parts. The most
your door, and ilies and
) you, as you walk along
who-who- who-are-you. "
work-work-work-away."
Willy-come-go. WiUy-
!gh up in the country,
oor-Will. Whip-whip-

negro to destroy these
fly his arrow at them,
erential dread. Jumbo,
ader his command ; and
a, or Demerara Indian
for departed souls, who
to rest for crimes done
Y are expressly sent by
cruel and hard-hearted
ceived from them. If
jry near the white man's
be inside ; and they ex-
ly with a slow consum-
close to the negro's or
isfortune sits brooding
nt in terrible suspense,
ian of Guiana for this.
>ody to teach him. Sut
lized country, the black

Anecdote.

SECOND JO0RNKT. 181

cat and broomstaff should be considered as conductors
to and from the regions of departed spirits.

Many years ago I knew poor harmless
Mary ; old age had marked her strongly, just
as he will mark you and me, should we arrive at her
years and carry the weight of grief which bent her double.
Tlie old men of the village said she had been very pretty
in het youth ; and nothing could be seen more comely
than Mary when she dtaced on the green. He who had
gained her heart left her for another, less fair, though
richer than Mary. From that time she became sad and
pensive ; the rose left her cheek, and she was never
more seen to dance round the May-pole on the green :
her expectations were blighted ; she became quite in-
difierent to everything around her, and seemed to think
of nothing but how she could best attend her mother,
who was lame, and not long for this life. Her mother
had begged a black kitten from somt boys who were
going to drown it, and in her last illness she told Mary
to be kind to it for her sake.

When age and want had destroyed the symmetry of
Mary's fine form, the village began to consider her as
one who had dealings with spirits ; her cat confirmed'
the suspicion. If a cow died, or a villager wasted away
wj.ih an unknown complaint, Mary and her oat had it
to answer for. Her broom sometimes served her for a
walking-stick : and if ever she supported her tottering
frame with it as far as the May-pole, where once, in
youthful bloom and beauty, she had attracted the eyes
of all, the boys would surround her, and make sport of
her, while her cat had neither friend nor safety beyond
the cottage wall. Nobody considered it cr-el or un-
charitable to torment a witch ; and it is proi^able, long

/ I

in i mmmi^^^m:^^imm^mm^§m^^mmmmm

««

122

WANDBRINOS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

before this, that cruelty, old age, and want have worn
her out, and that both poor Maiy and her cat havo
ceased to bo.

Would you wish to pursue the diCTerent species of
game, wellnstored and boundless w your range in Deme-
rara. Here no one dogs you, and afterwards clandes-
tinely inquires if you have a hundred a year in land to
entitle you to ei\joy such patrician sport Here no saucy
intruder asks if you have taken out a licence, by virtue
of which you are allowed to kill the birds which have
br^d upon your own property. Here

" Yon »re as frM aa when Oo<t flnt made man,
Kro the vile lawi of aervltude began,
And wild In woodi the noble lavage ran."

Before the morning's dawn you hear a noise in the
foresi, which sounds like ''duraquaura" often repeated.
This is the partridge, a little smaller, and
tri^ ^" differing somewhat in colour from the Eng-
lish partridge : it lives entirely in the forest,
and probably the youitjg brood very soon leave their
parents, as you never flush more than twc birds in the
same place, and in general only one.

About the same hour, and sometimes even
ur the ttuuun at midnight, you hear two species of Maam,

or Tbuunon. — ,. in.i.i.i ii-

or Tmamou, send forth their long and plain-
tive whistle from the depth of the forest The flesh
of both is delicious. The largest is plumper, and almost
equals in size the black cock of Northumberland. The
quail is said to be here, though rare.
The Hannaquoi, which some have compared to the
TheHannv pheasant, though with little reason, is very
'»»'• commen.

Here ate alse two species of the Powise, or Hocco,

^1f '

^a

TH AMERICA.

e, and want have worn
Jaiy and her cat bavo

the different species of

in your range in Deme-
md afterwards clandes-
ndred a year in land to
an sport. Here no saucy

out a licence, by virtue
Jl the birds which have

Here

d flnt made man,
de began,
le savag« ran."

rou hear a noise in the
quaura" often repeated.
HO, a little smaller, and
in colour from the Eng-
es entirely in the forest,
I very soon leave their
« than two birds in the

one.

kour, and sometimes even
u two species of Maam,
rth their long and plain-
f the forest. The flesh
it is plumper, and almost

Itforthumberland. The
I rare.

\ have compared to the
th little reason, is very

f the Powise, or Hocco,

8KC0ND JOURNKT.

123

MMesAMnttttsM

and two of the small wild Turkoys called Maroudi ;
thoy feed on the ripe fruits of the forest, and
..Jho«co!'** ""* found in all directions in those extensive
wilds. You will admire the horned screamer
(IS a stately and mivjesti<i bird : he is almost the siie of
the turkey cock ; on his head is a long si fender horn,
and each wing is armed with a strong, sharp, triangular
spur, an inch long.

Sometime]* you will fall in with flocks of
Waracabiu or two or three hundred Waracabas, or Trum-
peters, called so from the singular noise
they produce. Their breast is adorned with beautiful
changing blue and purple feathers ; tiieir head and
neck like velvet ; their wings and back grey, and
belly black. They run with great swiftness, and t ben
domesticated, attend their master in his walks, with as
much apparent affection as his dog. They have no
spurs, but still, such is their high spirit and activity,
that they browbeat overy dunghill fowl in the yard,
and force the Guinea birds, dogs, and turkeys to own
their superiority.

If, kind and gentle reader, thou shouldst ever visit
these regions with an intention to examine their pro-
ductions, perhaps the few observations contained in
these wanderings may be of service to thee; excuse
their brevity : more could have been written, and each
bird more particularly described, but it would have
been pressing too hard upon thy time and patience.

Soon after arriving in these parts, thou wilt find that
the species here enumerated are only as a handful from
a well-stored granary. Nothing has been said of the
eagles, the fifil^ons, the hawks, and shrikes ; nothing of
the differwt species of vultures, the king of which is

124

WANDKRINOa IN SOUTH AMKRIOA.

very handnome, and leoms to »e the only }>' d which
nlaimH regnl honours from a surrounding trilx-. It in it
fact boyond all disputo, that when the scout of corriou
1)08 drawn together hundreds of the common vulture^,
they ivll retire from the carcase as soon as the king of
the vultures makes his appearance. When his miyesty
h"s satisfied the cravings of his royal stomach with the
dioicest bits from the most stinking and corrupted parts,
he generally retires to a neighbouring tree, and then the
common vultures return in crowds to gobble down his
leavings. The Indians, as well as the Whites, have
observed this ; for when one of them, who has learned
a little English, sees the king, and wishes you to have
a proper notion of the bird, he says, "There is the
governor of the carrion crows."

Now, the Indians have never heard of a personage in
Demerara higher than that of governor ; and the colo-
nists, through a common mistake, call the vultui-es
carrion crows. Hence the Indian, in order to express
the dominion of this bird over the common vultures,
tells you he is governor of the carrion crows. Ihe
Spaniards have also observed it, for, through all the
Spanish Main, he is called Eey de Zamuros, king of the
vultures. The many species of owls, too, have not been
noticed ; and no mention made of the columbine tribe.
The prodigious variety of water fowl, on the sea-shore,
has been but barely hinted at.

There, and on the borders and surface of the inland
waters, in the marshes and creeks, besides the flamingos,
scarlet curlew, and spoonbills, already mentioned, will
be found; greenish-brown curlews, sand-pipers, rails,
coots, gulls, pelicans, jabiroB, nandapoas, crabiers, snipes,
plovers, ducka» geese, cranes, and anhingas; most of

•**'*»«'^w»Mitia>ia»wi»ii6a>SBaw^»i^ii^^

JTtI AMKRIOA.

»e the only h' ,\ wliinh
rrounding tritx-. It ih h
hon tlio scout of carrion
>f the commun vulture^,
e as soon as the king of
itce. When his iniycsty
9 royal stomach with the
king and corrupted parts,
ouriug tree, and then the
wds to gohblo down his
>11 as the Whites, have
P them, who has learned
and wishes you to have
he says, "There ia the

r hoard of a personage in
governor ; and the colo-
Istake, call the vultures
lian, in order to express
3r the common vultures,
the carrion crows. Ihe
it, for, through all the
de Zamuros, king of the
owls, too, have not been
3 of the columbine tribe,
r fowl, on the sea-shore,

nd surface of the inland
ka, besides the flamingos,

already mentioned, will
rlewa, sand-pipers, rails,
indapoas, crabiera, snipes,

and anhingas ; most of

SECOND JOURNKT.

120

them in vast abundance; some frequenting only the
wa-coost, others only the interior, according to their
tliffurent natures; all worthy the attention <.f tiie
naturalist, all worthy of a place in tlie cabinet of the
curious.

Should thy comprehensive genius not confine itself to
birds alone, grand is the appearance of other objects all
around Thou art in a land rich in botany and mine-
ralogy, rich in zoology and entomology. Animation will
glow in thy looks, and exercise will brace thy frame in
vigour. The very time of thy absence from the tables
of heterogeneous luxury will bo profitable to thy
stomach, perhaps already sorely drenched with Londo-
Parisiau sauces, and a new stock of health will bring
thee an ajipetite to relish the wholesome food of the
chase. Never-faiUng Sleep will wait on thee at the time
she comes to soothe the rest of animated natur.) ; and,
ere the sun's rays appear in the horizon, tliou wilt
spring from thy hammock fresh as April Jark. Be
convinced also, that the dangers and dimculties which,
are. generally supposed to accompany the traveller
in his journey through distant regions, are not half
so numerous or dreadful as they are commonly thought
to be.

Dangen to The youth who incautiously reels into the
fllt'Tot real lobby of Drury Lane, after leaving the table
ut imaginary, g^jg^ ) the god of wine, is exposed to
more certain ruin, sickness, and decay, than he who
wanders a whole year in the wilds of Demerara. But
this will never be believed ; because the disasters arising
from dissipation are so common and frequent in civilized
life, that man becomes quite habituated to them ; and
sees daily victims sink into the tomb long before their

idtm

126

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

w

».

\

time, witliout ever once taking slarm at the causes
which precipitated them headlong into it.

But the dangers which a traveller exposes himself to
in foreign parts are novel, out-of-the-way things to a
man at home. The remotest apprehension of meeting a
tremendous tiger, of heing carried oflf by a flying dragon,
or having his bones picked by a famished cannibal ; oh,
that makes him shudder ! It sounds in his ears like the
bursting of a bomb-shell. Thank Heaven, he is safe by
his own fire-side f

Prudence and resolution ought to be the traveller's
constant companions. The first will cause him to avoid
a number of snares which he will find in the path as he
journeys on ; and the second will always lend a hand to
assist him if he has unavoidably got entangled in them.
The little distinctions which have been shown him at
his c Am home, ought to be forgotten when he travels
over the world at large ; for strangers know nothing of
his former merits, and it is necessary that they should
witness them before they pay him the tribute which he
was wont to receive within his own doors. Thus, to be
kind and affable to those we meet, to mis in their
amusements, to pay a compliment or two to their man-
ners and customs, to respect their elders, to give a little
to their distressed and needy, and to feel, as it were, at
home amongst them, is the sure way to enable you to
pass merrily on, and to find other comfcrts as sweet and
palatable as those which you were accustomed to partake
oi' amongst/ your friends and acquaintance in your own
native land. We will now ascend in fancy on Icarian
wing, and take a view of Guiana in general. See an
immense plain ! betwixt two of the largest rivers in the
world, level as a bowling-green, save at Cayenne, and

MMM

^■a

. 0 ^a£aexjMtt«<?ni> &«a* ««

UTH AMERICA.

ng slarm at the causes
ong into it.

vveller exposes himself to
it-of-the-way things to a
pprehension of meeting a
ed off by a flying dragon,
a faniished cannibal ; oh,
]unds in his ears like the
ank Heaven, he is safe by

ight to be the traveller's
5t will cause him to avoid
rill find in the path as he
rill always lend a hand to
ily got entangled in them,
have been shown him at
brgotten when he travels
trangers know nothing of
ecessary that they should
him the tribute which he
1 own doors. Thus, to be
'e meet, to mix in their
uent or two to their man-
leir elders, to give a little
and to feel, as it were, at
ure way to enable you to
ber comforts as sweet and
rere accustomed to pturtake
icquaintance in your own
scend in fancy on Icarian
liana in general. See an
f the largest rivers in the
sen, save at Cayenne, and

BEOOND JOURNEY.

127

covered with trees along the coast quite to the Atlantic
wave, except where the plantations make a little
vacancy amongst the foliage.

Though nearly in the centre of the torrid zone, the
sun's rays are not so intolerable as might be imagined,
on account of the perpetual verdure and refreshing
north-east breeze. See what numbers of broad and rapid
rivers intersect it in their journey to the ocean, and that
not a stone or a pebble is to be found on their banks, or
in any part of the country, till your eye catches the hills
in the interior. How beautiful and magnificent are the
lakes in the heart of the forests, and how charming the
forests themselves, for miles after miles on each side of
the rivers ! How extensive appear the savannas or
natural meadows, teeming with innumerable herds of
cattle where the Portuguese and Spaniards are settled,
but desert as Saara, where the English and Dutch claim
dominion ! How gradually the face of the country rises !
See the sand-hills all clothed in wood first emei^ng
from the level, then hills a little higher, rugged with
bold and craggy rocks, peeping out from amongst the
most luxuriant timber. Then come plains, and dells,
and far-extending valleys, arrayed in richest foliage ;
and beyond them, mountains piled on mountains, some
bearing prodigious forests, others of bleak and barren
aspect. Thus your eye wanders on, over scenes of
varied loveliness and grandeur, till it rests on the
stupendous pinnacles of tbe long-continued Cordilleras
de los Andes, which rise in towering majesty, and com-
mand all America.

How fertile must the lowlands be, from the accumu-
lation of fallen leaves and trees for centuries ! How
propitious the swamps and slimy beds of the rivers,

mmm

i

BBP^ Jhty"'^ ^i> -^ '' ^7

f'«i'%tfsf5*j' - j^'i -je'—.im^m'Sn: riSB'c":.;

128

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

Conclmion.

heated by a downward sun, to the amazing growth of
alligators, serpents, and innumerable insects 1 How
inviting the forests to the feathered tribes, where you
see buds, blossoms, green and ripe fruit, full-grown and
fading leaves, all on the same tree ! How secure the
wild beasts may rove in endless mazes ! Perhaps those
mountains too, which appear so bleak and naked, as if
quite neglected, are, like Potosi, fuU of precious metals.
Let us now rotum the pinions we bor-
rowed &om Icarus, and prepare to bid
farewell to the wilds. The time allotted to these wander-
ings is drawing fast to a close. Every day for the last
six months has been employed in paying close attention
to natural history in the forests of Demeraia. Above
two hundred specimens of the finest birds have been
collected, and a pretty just knowledge formed of their
haunts and economy. From the time of leaving Eng-
land, in March 1816, to the present day, nothing has
intervened to arrest a fine flow of health, saving a
quartan ague, which did not tarry, but fled as suddenly
as it appeared.

And now I take leave of thee, kind and gentle reader.
The new mode of preserving birds, heretofore promised
thee, shall not be forgotten. The plan is already formed
in imagination, and can be penned down during the
passage across the Atlantic. K the few remarks in
these wanderings shall have any weight in inciting thee
to sally forth, and explore the vast and well-stored
regions of Demerara, I have gained my end. Adieu !

Charles Waterton.

April 6<A, 1817,

"~^MSi

#

T

flH AUERICA.

the amazing growth of
imerable insects 1 How
hered tribes, where you
ipe fruit, full-grown and
tree ! How secure the
I mazes ! Perhaps those
0 bleak and naked, as if
\ fuU of precious metals,
m the pinions we bor-
, and prepare to bid
allotted to these wander-

Every day for the last
n paying close attention
« of Demeraia. Above
finest birds hare been
owledge formed of their
le time of leaving Eng-
resent day, nothing has
>w of health, saving a
Ty, but fled as suddenly

kind and gentle reader,
rds, heretofore promised
e plan is already formed
enned down during the
If the few remarks in
r weight in inciting thee
le vast and well-stored
ned my end. Adieu !

Charlbs Waterton.

WBPH

THIRD JODRNKT.

1S9

THIRD JOURNEY.

" Dewrtosqnfl videre locof, Uttusqiw reUctnin.'

• Gbntlb reader, after staying a few months in Eng-
land, I strayed acroes the Alps and the Apennines and
returned home, but could not tarry. Guiana still
whispered in my ear, and seemed to invite me once
more to wander through her distant forests.

Shouldst thou have a leisure hour to read what
follows, I pray thee pardon the frequent use of that
unwelcome monosyllable L It could not well be
avoided, as will be seen in the sequel In Febnuuy,
1820, 1 sailed firom the Clyde, on boaid the Olenbervie,
a fine West-Indiaman. She was driven to the north-,
west of Ireland, and had to contend with a foul and
wintry wind for above a fortnight. At last it changed,
and we had a pleasant passage across the Atlantic
TeUow fever Sad and mouxnful was the story We heard
•tDemenn. on entering the river Demerara. The yellow
tevet had swept off numbers of the old inhabitants,
and the mortal remains of many a new oomer were daily
passing down the streets, in alow and mute procesdou
to their last resting-place.

Retidenceat -After Staying a few days in the town, I
Xibirioreek. ^^^ ^^ ^j^^ Demeram to the former habita-
tion of my worthy friend, Mr. Edmonstone^ in Mibiri
creek.

fmsmm^mssmmt

mm

130

WANBERIMOS IN BOUTH AMBBIOA.

The house had been abandoned for some years. On
arriving at the hill, the remembrance of scenes long past
and gone, naturally broke in upon the mind. All was
dianged ; the house was in ruins, and gradually sinking
under tho influence of the sun and rain ; the roof had
nearly fallen in ; and the room, where once governors
and generals had caroused, was now dismantled, and
tenanted by the vampire. You would have said,

" 'TIr now the vamplre'i bleak abode.
Tig now the apartment of the toad ;
Tie here the painful Chegoe feeda,
"Tis hers the dire Labarri brcedu,
Conceal'd in ruina, moiis, and weeds."

On the outside of the house, nature had nearly re"
assumed her ancient right : a few straggling fruit-trees
were still discernible amid the varied hue of the near
approaching forest ; they seemed like strangers lost, and
bewildered, and unpitied, in a foreign land, destined to
linger a little longer, and then sink down for ever.

I hired some negroes from a woodcutter
the author*! in another creek to repair the roof; and
then the house, or at least what remained of
it» became head-quarters for natural history. The frogs,
and here and there a snake, received that attention
which the weak in this world generally experience
firom the strong, and which the law commonly denomi-
nates an ejectment. But here, neither the frogs nor
Serpents were ill-treated; they sallied forth, without
buffet or rebuke, to choose their place of residence;
the world was all before them. The owls went away
of their own accord, preferring to retire, to a hollow
tree rather than to associate with their new landlord.
The bats and vampires stayed with me, and went in and;
out as UBoaL . ■ <

"WH

^PF

H AMBBIOA.

d for some years. On
mce of scenes long past
»n the mind. All was
I, and gradually sinking
tnd rain ; the roof had
where once governors
now dismantled, and
would have said,

sak abode,
r the toad;
;o« feedi,
brcedu,
and weeds."

nature had nearly rs"
w straggling fruit-trees
varied hue of the near
like strangers lost, and
>reign land, destined to
nk down for ever,
'oes from a woodcutter
repair the roof; and
least what remained of
ral history. The frogs,
'eceived that attention
1 generally experience
law commonly denomi-

neither the frogs nor

sallied forth, without

eir place of residence;

The owls went away
; to retire, to a hollow
th their new landlord.
\h ma, and went in and^

THIRD JOUKNET.

181

IMil

It was upon this hill in former days that I first tried
to teach John, the black slave of my friend Mr. Edmon-
stone, the proper way to do birds. But John had poor
abilities, and it required much time and patience to
drive anything into him. Some years after this his
master took him to Scotland, where, becoming free,
John left him, and got employed in the Glasgow,
and then the Edinbui^gh museum. Mr. Robert Edmon-
stone, nephew to the above gentleman, had a fine
mulatto, capable of learning anything. He requested
me to teach him the art I did so. He was docile
and active, and was with me all the time in the forest ;
I left him there to keep up this new art of preserving
birds, and to communicate it to others. Here then I
fixed my head-quarters, in the ruins of this once gay
and hospitable house. Close by, in a little hut, which,
in times long past, had served for a store to keep pro-
visions in, there lived a coloured man and his wife, by
name Backer, Many a kind turn they did to me ; and
I was more than once a service to them and their
children, by bringing to their relief, in time of sickness,
what little knowledge I had acquired of medicine.

I would here, gentle reader, wish to draw thy atten- '
Raiment and tio", for a few minutes, to physic, raiment,
and diet Shouldst thou ever wander
through these remote and dreary wilds, foi^et not to
carry with thee bark, laudanum, calomel, and jalap, and
the lancet There are no druggist shops here, nor sons'
of Galen to apply to in time of need. I never go en-
cumbered with many clothes. A thin flannel waistcoat'
under a check shirt, a pair of trowsMs, and a hat, were
all my wardrobe ; shoes and stockings I seldom had on.
In dry weather they would have irritated the feet, and

k2

132

WAin)ERIXaB IK BOCTH AMERICA.

retarded me in the chose of 'wild heaste ; and in the
rainy season they would have kept me in a perpetual
state of damp and moisture. I eat modei-ately, end
never drink wine, spiritt, or fermented liquors in any
climate. This abstemiousness has ever proved a faith*
ful friend ; it carried me triumphant through the epi-
demia at Malaga, where death made such havoc about
the beginning of the present century ; and it has since
befriended me in many a fit of sickness, brought on by
exposure to the noon-day sun, to the dews of night, to
the pelting shower, and unwholesome food.

Perhaps it will be as well, here, to mention a fever
which came on, and the treatment of it ; it may pos-
sibly be of use to thee, shouldst thou turn wanderer in
the tropics : a word or two also of a wound I got in
the forest, and then we wiU say no more of the little
accidents which sometimes occur, and attend solely to
natural Mstoiy. We shall have an opportunity of see-
ing the wild animals in their native haunts, undisturbed
and unbroken in upon by man. We shall have time
and leisure to look more closely at them, and probably
rectify some errors which, for want of proper informa-
tion, or a>near observance, have crept into their several
histories.

It was in the month of June, when the sun was
Severe at- 'Within a few days of Cancer, that I had a
tackoffernr. geyere attack of fever. There had been a
deluge of rain, accompanied' with tremendous thunder
and lightning, and very little sun. Nothing could
exceed the dampness of the atmosphere. For two or
three days I had been in a kind of twilight state of
health, neither ill nor what you may call well; I
yawned and felt weary 'without exercise, and my sleep

ra AMERICA. "

rild beasts; and in ihe
kept me in a perpetual
I eat moderately, end
rrmented liqnors in any
has ever proved a faith-
ipliant through the epi-
made such havoc about
intury ; and it has since
sickness, brought on by
to the dews of night, to
>lesome food,
lere, to mention a fever
nont of it ; it may pos-
t thou turn wanderer in
[so of a wound I got in
ly no more of the little
suT, and attend solely to
e an opportunity of see-
tive haunts, undisturbed
\. We shall have time
jr at them, :;nd probably
(rant of proper informa-

> crept into their several

me, when the sun was
Df Cancer, that I had a
'er. There had been a
ith tremendous thunder

> sun. Nothing could
ttmosphere. For two or
ind of twilight state of
you may call well; I
s exercise, and my sleep

wmmm

fHtRD JOVRNKT.

18S

was merely slumber. This was the time to have taken
medicine ; but I neglected to do so, though I had just
been reading, " 0 navis referent in mare te novi fluctus,
0 quid agis % fortiter occupa portum." I awoke at
midnight; a cruel headache, thirst* and pain in the
small of the back, informed me what the case was.
Had Chiron himself been present, he could not have
told me more distinctly that I was goijg to have a tight
brush of it, and that I ought to meet it with becoming
fortitude. I doized, and woke* and startled, and then
uozed again, and suddenly awoke, thinking I was
'fidling down a precipice.

1 The return of the bats to their diurnal retreat, which
was in the thatch above my hammock, informed me
that the sun was now fast approackiag to the eastern
horizon. I arose, in languor and in pain, the pulse at
one hundred and twenty. I took ten grains of calomel
and a scruple of jalap, and drank during the day large
draughts of tea, weak and warm. The physic did its
duty ; but there was no remission of fever or headache,
though the pain of the back was less acute. I was
saved the trouble of keeping the room cool, as the wind
beat in at every quarter.

At five in the evening the pulse had risen to one
hundred and thirty, and the headache almost insup-
portable, especially on looking to the right or left. I
now opened a vein, and made a large orifice, to allow
the Wood to rush out rapidly ; I doaed it after losing
sixteen ouncea I then stepped my Cwt in warm water,
and got into the hammock. After bleeding, the pulse
fell to ninety, and the head ^as much relieved ; but
during the night, which was very restless, the pulse
rose again to one hundred and twenty, and at times the

HHMill

mm

\'

m

WAKDERINQS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

headache was distressing. I relieved the headache ft-om
time to time, hy applying cold water to the temples, and
holding a wet handkerchief there. The next morning
the fever ran very high, and I took five more grains of
calomel and ten of jalap, determined, whatever might
be the case, this should be the last dose of calomel.
About two o'clock in the afternoon the fever remitted,
and a copious perspiration came on ; there was no more
headache, nor thirst, nor pain in the back, and the
following night was comparatively a good one. The
next morning I swallowed a large dose of castor oil : it
was genuine, for Louisa Backer had made it Arom the
seeds of the trees which grew near tho door. I was
now entirely free from all symptoms of fever, or appre-
hensions of a return ; and the morning after I began to
take bark, and continued it for a fortnight. This put
all to rights.

Meets with '^^ B^T ^^ ^^^ wound I got in the forest,
m accident. ^^^ ^j^^ j^^q^^ ^f ^^jg^ ^j^ ^^^ short— I had

pursued a red-headed woodpecker for above a mile in the
forest, without being able to get a shot at it. Thinking
more of the woodpecker, as I ran along, than of the
way before me, I trod upon a little hardwood stump,
which was just about an inch or so above the ground ;
it entered the hollow part of my foot, making a deep
and lacerated wotind there. It had brought me to the
ground, and there I lay till a transitory fit of sickness
went off. I allowed it to bleed freely, and on reaching
head-quarters, washed it well and probed it, to feel if
any foreign body was left within it. Being satisfied
that there was none, I brought the edges of the wound
togethei, and then put a piece of lint on it, and over
that a very large poultice, which was changed morning,

ass

mmm

wtm

FH AMERICA.

ieved the headache from
'ater to the temples, and
re. The next morning
took five more grains of
rmined, whatever might
le last dose of calomel,
oon the fever remitted,
on ; there was no more
in the back, and the
raly a good one. The
ge dose of castor oil : it
had made it from the
near tUo door. I was
tome of fever, or appre-
aorning after I began to
> a fortnight. This put

9imd I got in the forest,
I, are very short — I had
ir for above a mile in the
i a shot at it. Thinking
ran along, than of the
little hardwood stump,
at so above the ground ;
my foot, making a deep
b had brought me to the
ransitory fit of sickness
freely, and on reaching
ind probed it, to feel if
bin it. Being satisfied
the edges of the wound
of lint on it, and over
li was changed morning,

THIRD JOmiHIT.

130

HW

noon, and night. Luckily, Backer had a cow or two
upon the hill ; now, as heat and moisture are the two
principal virtues of a poultice, nothing could produce
those two qualities better than fresh cow-dung boiled :
had there been no cows there, I could ha«re made it
with boiled grass and leaves. I now took entirely to
the hammock, placing the foot higher than the knee ;
this prevented it from throbbing, and was, indeed, the
only position in which I could he at ease. When the
inflammation was completely subdued, I 8pi)lied a wot
cloth to the wound, and every now and then steeped
the foot in cold water during the day, and at night
«gain applied a poultice. The wound was now healing
fast, and in three weeks from the time of the accident
nothing but a scar remained ; so that T again sallied
forth sound and joyful, and said to myself—

" I, pedes qao te rapiant et aune
Dum favot sol, et locus, 1 seoundo
Oinine, et oonto latebras, ut oHm,

Roinpe fenroin.*

Now, this contus was a tough light pole, eight feet long,
on the end of which was fixed an old bayonet. I never
went into the canoe without it ; it was of great use in
'Starting the beasts and snakes out of the hollow trees,
and in case of need, was an excellent defence.

liMtconver- ^^^ 1^19, 1 had the last conversatipn with
j^n 'rtftfflr Sir Joseph Banks. I saw with sorrow that
' death was going to rob us of him. We talked
much of the present mode adopted by all museums in
stuffing quadrupeds, and condemned it as being very
imperfrot : still we could not find out a better way ; and
at last concluded, that the lips and nose ought to be cut
of^ and replaced with wax ; it being impossible to make
those parts appear like life, as they shrink to nothing, and

'fir

WAia>KRIKC« III BOUTH AXBRIOA.

render the stuffed sperimeus in the different mtuennu
horrible to look at The defects in the legs and feet
would not be quite so glarings being covered with hair.
I had paid great attention to this snhjoot
Mida Midr for above fourteen years ; still it would not
** do : however, one night, while i was lying

in the hammock, and harping on the string on Which
hung all my solicitude, I hit upon the proper mode
by inference ; it appeared clear to me that it was tha
only true way oi' going tc work, and ere I dosed my
eyes in sleep, I was able to prove to myself that there
eonld not be any other way tliat would answer. I
tried it the next day, and succeeded according to ex-
pectation.

By means of this process, which is very simple, we
can now give every feature back again to the animal's
fece, after it has been skinned; and when necessary,
stamp grief, or pain, or pleasure, or n ,^e, or mildness
upon it. But more of this hereafter.

> Let us now tnrti our attention to the
Sloth, whose native haunts have hitherto
been so little known, and probably little. looked into.
Those who have written on this singular animal, have
remarked that he is in a perpetual state of pain, that
he is proverbially slow ill his movements, that he is •
prisoner in space, and that as soon as he has consomed
all the leaves of the tree ujpon which he had mounted,
he rolls himself up in the form of a ball, and then fidb
to the ground. This is not the case.

If the naturalists who have written the history of
the sloth had gone into the wilds, in order to etamine
his haunts and economy, they*would not have drawn
the foregoing conclusions ; they would have learned,

'immm^^mmsmie^mmm:iM

f

<H AXWIIOA.

the different mtuennu
hi in the leg* and feet
eing coTered with hair,
ittention to this aulijoot
eara ; still it would not
Ight, while 1 WM lying
on the string on ilrhioh
npon the proper mode

to me that it was tha
k, and eie I oloaed my
re to myself that there
hat woold answer. I
«eded according to ez-

lich is Tory simple, we
It agtkin to the animal's
; and when necessary,
9, or n .'•e, or mildness
after,
oar attention to the
haunts have hitherto
ably little looked into,
s singular animal, hare
itaal state of pain, that
lovements, that he is •
xm as he has oonsnmed
irhich he had mounted,
of a ball, and then &Ua
Base.

written the history of
Is, in order to etamine
would not have drawn
y would have leamedi

THIRD JomuniT.

1ST

*s'ijteftsi£Ma|

that though all other quadrupeds may be described
while resting upon the ground, tihe sloth is an exception
to this rule, and that his history must be written while
he is in the tree.

This singular animal is destined by nature to be pro-
duced, to lire, and to die in the trees; and to do justice
to him, naturalists must ezaqiine him in this his upper
element. He is a scarce and solitary animal, and being
good food, he is never allowed to escape. Ue inhabits
Livei In '^°^<''^ *^^ gloomy forests, where snakes take
gloomy Ah up their abode, and where cruelly stinging
ants and scorpions, and swamps, and innu-
merable thorny shrubs and bushes, obstruct the steps
of civilised man. Were you to draw your own con-
clusions firom the descriptions which have been given
of the sloth, yoo would probably suspect, that no
naturalist has actually gone into the wilds with the
fixed determination to find him out and examine his
haunts, and see whether nature has committed any
blunder, in the formation of this extraordinary ereature^
which appears to ua so forlorn and miserable, so ill put
together, and so totally imfit to enjoy the blessings
which have been so bonntifkilly given to tltis rest of
animated nature; for, as it has formerly been remarked,
he has no soles to his feet, «nd he is evidently ill at
ease when he tries to move on the ground, and it ia
then that he looks up in your fuse with a countenance
that Si^s^ **Have pity on me, for I am in pain and
sorrow."

It mostly happens that Indians and Negroes are the
people who catch the sloth, and bring it to the white
man : hence it may be conjectured that the erroneous
•oeounts we have hitherto had of the sloth, have not

138

WANDBRING8 IN SOUTH AMBRIOA.

been ponned down with tho slightost intention to mis-
lead tho reader, or give him an exaggerated history, but
that these errors have naturally arisen by examining
the Hloth in those places where nature never intended
that he should be exhibited.

However, we are now in his own domain. Man but
little frequents these thick and noble forests, which ex-
tend far and wide on every side of us. This, then, ia
the proper place to go iii quest of the sloth. We will
first take a near view of him. By obtaining a know-
Anatomy of ledge of his anatomy, we shall be enabled
the iioth. tQ account for his movements hereafter, when
we see him in his proper haunts. His fore-legs, or,
more correctly speaking, his arms, are apparently much
too Jong, while his hind-legs are very short, and look
as if they could be bent almost to the shape of a cork-
6crew. Both the fore and hind-legs, by their form,
and by the manner in which they are joined to the
body, are quite incapacitated from acting in a perpen-
dicular direction, or in supporting it on the earth as the
bodies of other quadrupeds are supported, by their legs.
Hence, when you place him on tho floor, hia belly
touches the ground. Now, granted that he supported
himself on his legs like other animals, nevertheless he
would be ir pain, for he has no soles to his feet, and
his claws are very sharp and long, and curved; so that,
were his body supported by his feet, it would be by
their extremities, just as your body would be, were
you to throw yourself on all fours, and try to support
it on the ends of your toes and fingers — a trying
position. Were the floor of glass, or of a polished
«urface, the sloth would actually be quite stationary ;
but OB the ground is generally rough, with littlb pn>

m.

""^^Mi

ra AMERICA.

);hto8t intention to mis*
ixaggoratcd history, but
!y arisen by examining
nature never intended

)wn domain. Man but
noble forests, whieh ex-
j of us. This, then, is
of the sloth. We will

By obtaining a know-
f, we shall be enabled
irements hereafter, when
nts. His fore-legs, or,
IS, are apparently much
e very short, and look
to the shape of a cork-
id-legs, by their form,
bhey are joined to the
9m acting in a perpen-
g it on the earth as the
upported, by their legs,
in tho floor, hia belly
ited that he supported
limals, nevertheless he

soles to his feet, and
I, and curved; so that,
I feet, it would be by

body would be, were
ars, and try to support
ind fingers — a trying
iasB, or of a polished
y be quite stationary ;
rough, with littlb pia-

THIRD JOURNBt.

139

tuborancofl upon it, such as stones, or roots of gross, &c.,
this just suits tho sloth, and he inovns his fore-lo^s in
all directions, in order to And something to lay hold of;
and when he has sucouodod, hu pulls himself forward,
and is thus enabled to travel onwards, but at the same
time in so tardy and awkward a manner, as to acquire
him tho namo of sloth.

Indeed his looks and his gestures evidently betray
his unconifortable situation ; and as a ^igh evory now
and then e^-"npes him, we may be entitled to conclude
that he is actually in pain.

Some years ago I kept a sloth in my room for snveral
months. I often took him out of the house and placed
him upon the ground, in order to have an opportunity
of observing his motions. If the ground were rough,
he would pull himself forwards, by means of his fore-
legs, at a pretty good pace ; and he inrariobly imme<
diately shaped his course towards the nearest tree : but
if I put him upon a smooth and well-trodden part of
the road, he appeared to be in trouble and distress.
His favourite abode was the back of a chair : ind aftoi'
getting all his legs in a line upon the topmooi part of
it, he would hang there for hours together, and often,
with a low and inward cry, would seem to invite me to
take notice of him.

. The sloth, in its wild state, spends its whole life in
trees, and never leaves them but through force, or by
accident. An all-ruling Providence has ordered man to
ttead on the surface of the earth, the eagle to soar in
the expanse of the ski ^s, and the monkey and squirrel
to inhabit the trees : still these may change their relative
situations without feeling much inconvenience : but the
idoth is doomed ' spend hia whole life in the trees; and

iMMiii

■iMi

140

WANDBMNG8 IN BOOTH AMERICA.

what is more extraordinary, not upm, the branches, like
the pquirrel and the monkey, but under them. He
moves suspended from the branch, he rests suspended
from it, and he sleeps suspended from it. To enable
him to do this, he must have a very diflTerent formation
from that of any other known quadruped.

Hence, his seemingly bungled conformation is at once
accounted for; and in lieu of the sloth leading a painful
life, and entailing a melancholy and miserable existence
on its progeny, it is but fair to surmise that it just
eiyoys life as much as any other animal, and that its
extraordinary fonnation and singular habits are but
further proofe to engage us to admire the wonderful
works of Omnipotence.

It must be observed, that the sloth does not hang,
head downwards like the vampire. When asleep, he
supports himself Irom a branch parallel to the earth.
He first seizes the branch with one arm, and then with
the other; and after that, brings up both his l^s, one
by one, to the same branch, so that all four are in
a line: he seems perfectly at rest in this position.
Now, had he a tail, he would be at a loss to know what
to do with it in this position : were he to draw it up
within his legs, it would interfere with them; and were
he to let it hang down, it would become the sport of
the winds. Thus his deficiency of tail is a benefit to
him ; it is merely an apology for a tail, scarcely ex-
Deeding an inch and a half in length.

I observed, when he was climbing, he never used his
aims both together, but first one and then the other,
and so on alternately. There is a singularity in his
hair, different firom that of all other animals, and, 1
believe, hitherto unnoticed by naturtuists; his hair ia

'"ffiiiiiii

^^^^^B^^^^

■iMi

TH AMERICA.

upon the blanches, like
but under them. He
nch, he rests suspended
ed from it. To enable
very different formation
luadruped.

conformation is at once
B sloth leading a painful
and miserable existence
to surmise that it just
ler animal, and that its
ingular habits are but
' admire the wonderful

be sloth does not hang.
>ire. When asleep, he
ti parallel to the earth.
>ne arm, and then with
^ up both his 1^^ one
K> that all four are in

rest in this position.

at a loss to know what
were he to draw it up
re with tiiem; and were
Id become the sport of
' of tail is a benefit to
for a tail, scarcely ez>
ngth.

bing, he never used hii
ue and then the other,
is a singularity in hit

other animal^ and, I ,
oaturtuists; his hair ia

>=-«U£WMt*n&^M»iWJIt.&K^>!U<in

THIBD JOimNBT.

141

thick and coarse at the extremity, and gradually tapers
to the root, where it becomes fine as a spider's web.
His fur has so much the hue of the moss which grows
on the branches of the trees, that it is very difficult to
make him out when he is at rest

The male of the three-toed sloth has a longitudinal
bar of very fine black hair on his back, rather lower
than the shoulder-blades ; on each side of this black bar
there is a space of yellow hair, equally fine ; it has the
appearance of being pressed into the body, and looks
exactly as if it had been singed. If we examine the
anatomy of his fore-legs, we shall immediately perceive,
by their lum and muscular texture, how very capable
they are of supporting the pendent weight of his body,
both in climbing and at rest ; and, instead of pronounc-
ing them a bungled composition, as a celebrated natu-
ralist has done, we shall consider them as remarkably
well calculated to perform theiT extraordinary functions.

As the sloth is an inhabitant of forests within the
tropics, where the trees touch each other in the greatest
profusion, there seems to be no reason why he should
confine himself to one tree alone for food, and entirely
strip it of its leaves. During the many years I have
ranged the forests, I have never seen a tree in such a
state of nudily j indeed, I would hazard a conjecture,
that, by the tune the animal had finished the last of the
old leaves, there would be a new crop on the part of
the tree he had stripped first, ready for him to begin
again, so quick is the process of vegetation in these
countries.

There is a saying amongst the Indians, that when
the wind blows, the sloth begins to travel In cahn
weather he remains tranquil, probably not liking to

■dp

T

142

WANDEBINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

ding to the brittle extremity of the branches, lest they
should break with him in passing from one tree to
another ; but, as soon as the wind rises, the branches
of the neighbouring trees become interwovon, and then
the sloth seizes hold of them, and pursues his journey
in safety. There is seldom an entire day of calm in
these forests. The 'trade- wind generally sets in about
ten o'clock in the morning, and thus the sloth may set
off after breakfast, and get a considerable way before
dinner. He travels at a good round pace ; and were
you to see him pass from tree to tree, as I have done,
yon would never think of calling him a sloth.

Thus, it would appear that the different histories we
have of this quadruped are erroneous on two accounts :
first, that the writers of them, deterred by difficulties
and local annoyances, have not paid sufficient attention
to him in his rative haunts ; and g^f \dly, they have
described him in a situation in Tt >> was never

intended by nature to cut a figu , .^ean on the
ground. The sloth is as much at a loss to proceed on
his journey upon a smooth and level floor, as a man
would be who had to walk a mile in stilts upon a line
of feather beds.

One day, as we were crossing the Essequibo, I saw
The two- » l^i'g^ two-toed sloth on the ground upon
*««*»'°*'^ the bank; how he had got there nobody
dould tell : the Indian said he had never surprised a
sloth in such a situation before : he would hardly have
come theie to drink, for both above and below the
place, the branches of the trees touched the water, and ■
afforded him an easy and safe access to it. Be this as it
may, though the trees were not above twenty yards
firom him, he could not make his way through tiie sand

i^MM

'TH AUERIO&.

' the branches, lest they
ssing from one tree to
?ind rises, the branches
le interwoven, and then
and pursues his journey
I entire day of cahn in
generally sets in about

thus the sloth may set
ionsiderable way before

round pace ; and were

0 tree, as I have done,
ig him a sloth.

le different histories we
neous on two accounts :
deterred by difficulties
paid Bufficient attention
id >3'v \dly, they have
a. Ts 'm was never

igu uean on the

at a loss to proceed on

1 level floor, as a man
le in stilts upon a line

; the Essequibo, I saw
1 on the ground upon
bad got there nobody
had never surprised a
he would hardly have
above and below the
touched the water, and '
sess to it. Be this as it
t above twenty yards
I way through tiie sand

T

MM

mmm

THIRT> JOURNEY.

143

time enough to escape before we landed. As soon as
we got up to him he threw himself upon his back, and
defended himself in gallant style with his fore-legs.
" Come, poor fellow," said I to him, " if thou hast got
into a hobble to-day, thou shalt not suffer for it : I'll take
no advantage of thee in misfortune ; the forest is large
enough both for thee and me to rove in : go thy ways
up above, and eiy'oy thyself in these endless wilds : it is
more than probable thou wilt never have another inter-:
view with man. So fare thee well" On saying this, I
took a long stick which was lying there, held it for him
to hook on, and then conveyed him to a high and
stately mora. He ascended with won-lerful rapidity,
and in about a minute he was almost at the top of the
tree. H? now went off in a side direction, and ••aught
hold of the branch of a neighboming tree; he t en
proceeded towards the heart of the forest I stood
looking on, lost in amazement at his singular mode of
progress. I followed him with my eye till the inter-
vening branches closed in betwixt us ; and then I lost,
sight for ever of the two-toed sloth. I was going to
add, that I never saw a sloth take to his heels in such
earnest; but the expression will not do, for the sloth
has no heels.

That which naturalists have advanced of his being so
tenacious of life, is perfectly true. I saw the heart of
one beat for half an hour after it was taken out of the
body. The wourali poison seems to be the only thing
that will kill it quickly. On reference to a former part
of these Wanderings, it will be seen that a poisoned
arrow killed the sloth in about ten minutes.

So much for this harmless, unoffending animal He
holds.a conspicuous place in the catalogue of the animak

BT^

144

WAin>ERWOB IV BOUTH AXBRIOA.

•i'^'

of the new world. Thoagh naturalists have made no
mention of what follows, still it is not less true on that
account. The sloth is the only quadruped known
which ^ipends its whole life from the branch of ^a tree,
suspended by his feet. I have paid uncommon attention
to him in his native haunts. The monkey and squirrel
will seize a branch with their fore-feet, and pull them-
selves up, and rest or run upon it ; but the sloth, after
seizing it, still remains suspended, and suspended moves
along under the branch, till he can lay hold of another.
Whenever I have seen him in his native woods, whether
at rest, or asleep, or on his travels, I have always ob-
served that he was suspended &om the branch of a tree.
When his form and anatomy are attentively considered,
it will appear evident that tiia sloth cannot be at ease
in any situation, where his body is higher, or above his
feet We will now take our leave of him.

In the far-extending wilds of Guiana, the
traveller will be astonished at the immense
quantity of ants which he perceives on the ground and
in the trees. They have nests in the branches, four or
five times as large as that of the rook ; and they have
a covered way from them to the ground. In this
covered way thousands are perpetually passing and
repassing; and if you destroy part of it, they turn to,
and immediately repair it.

Other species of ants again have no covered way ; but
travel, exposed to view, upon the surface of the earth.
You will sometimes see a string of these ants a mile
long, each carrying in its mouth to its nest a green leaf,^
the size of a sixpence. It is wonderful to observe the
order in which they move, and with what pains and
labour they surmount the obstructioiiB of the path.

Ante.

HMP

$

^m

JTH AVBRIOA.

latundists have made no
t ia not less true on that
jnly quadruped known
[>m the branch of ^a tree,
aid unconunon attention
"he monkey and squirrel
fore-feet, and pull them*
I it ; but the sloth, after
d, and suspended moves
can lay hold of another,
is native woods, whether
ivels, I have always ob-
»m the branch of a tree,
e attentively considered,

sloth cannot be at ease
Y is higher, or above his
ave of him.

ing wilds of Guiana, the
onished at the immense
sives on the ground and
in the branches, four or
be rook ; and they have

the ground. In this
erpetnally passing and
part of it, they turn to,

ive no covered way; but
he surface of the earth.
ig of these ants a mile
I to its nest a green leaf,^
'onderful to observe the
1 with what pains and
ictioiiB of the path.

THIRD JOTJRingT.

Xtif

Tbree upedei
of Ant-bears.

The ants have their enemies, as well as
the rest of animated nature. Amongst the
foremost of these stand the three species of Ant-bears.
The smallest is not much larger than a rat ; the next
is nearly the size of a fox ; tmd the third a stout and
j)owerful animal, measuring about six feet from the
snout to the end of the tail. He is the most inoffensive
of all animals, and never Injures the property of man.
He is chiefly found in the inmost recesses of the forest,
and seems partial to the low and swampy parts near
creeks, where the troely-tree grows. There he goes up
and down in quest of ants, of which there is never the
least scarcity; so that he soon obtains a sufficient
supply of food, with very little trouble. He cannot
travel fast; man is superior to him in speed. With-
out swiftness to enable him to escape from his enemies,
without teeth, the possession of which would assist him
in self-defence, and without the power of burrowing in
the ground, by which he might conceal himself from
Ids pursuers, he still is capable of ranging through
these wilds in perfect safety ; nor does he fear the fatat
pressure of the serpent's fold, or the teeth of the
famished jaguar. Kature has formed his fore-legs
wonderfully thick, and strong, and muscular, and
armed his feet with three tremendous sharp and
crooked claws. Whenever he seizes an animal with
these formidable weapons, he hugs it close to his body,
and keeps it there till it dies through pressure, or
through want of food. Nor does the ant-bear, in the
meantime, suffer much from loss of aliment, as it is a
well-known fact, that he can go longer without food
than, perhaps, any other animal, excepting the land-
tortoise. His skin is of a texture that perfectly resist*

L

IM

WANDEBINOS IK 800TB AMBRIOA.

the bite of a dog ; his hinder parta are protected by
thick and ahaggy hair, while his immense tail is large
enough to cover his whole body.

The Indians have a great dread of coming in contact
with the ant-bear; and after disabling him in the chase,
never think of approaching him till he be quite dead.
It is perhaps on account of this caution, that naturali!
have never yet given to the world a true and correct
drawing of this singular animal, or described the pecu-
liar position of his fore-feet when he walks or stands.
I^ in taking a drawing from a dead ant-bear, yon judge
of the position in which he stands from that of all other
terrestrial animals, the sloth excepted, you will be in
error. Examine only a figure of this animal in books
of natural history, or inspect a stuffed specimen in the
best museumb, ~nd you will see that the fore-claws are
just in the same forward attitude as those of a dog, or.
a common bear, when he walks or stands. But tlus is
a distorted and unnatural position ; and in life, would
be a painful and intolerable attitude for the ant-bear.
The length and curve of his claws cannot admit of such
a position. When he walks or stands, his feet have
somewhat the appearance of a club-hand. He goes
entirely on the outer side of his fore-feet^ which are
quite "bent inwards ; the claws collected into a point,
and going under the foot. In this position he is quite
at ease ; while his long ulaws are disposed of in a
manner to render them harmless to him, and are pre-
vented from becoming dull and worn, like those of the
dog, which would inevitably be the case, did thei
points come in actual contact with the ground ; f«r his
claws have not that retractile power which is given
animals of the feline species, by which they are enabled

I

H AMBRIOA.

parta are protected by
is immense tail is large

id of coming in contact
tbling bim in tbe obase,
1 till he be quite dead,
caution, that naturalif
orld a true and correct
, or described the pecn-
len he walks or stands,
lead ant-bear, yon judge
ds from that of all other
xcepted, you will be in
)f this animal in books
stuffed specimen in the
) that the fore-claws are
ide as those of a dog, or.
I or stands. But this is
bion ; and in life, would
ititude for the ant-bear.
ws cannot admit of such
or stands, his feet have
a club-hand. He goes
his fore-feet^ which ore
8 collected into a point,
this position he is quite
a are disposed of in a
ess to him, and are pre-
1 worn, like those of the
be the case, did thei
irith the ground ; f«r his
power which is given
y which they are enabled

iHii

mmm

THIRD JOtrRNBT.

147

to preserve the sharpness of their claws on the most
flinty path, A slight inspection of the fore-feet of the
ant-bear will immediately convince you of the mistake
artists and naturalists have fallen into, by putting his
fore-feet in the same position as those of other quad-
- peds ; for you will perceive that the whole outer side
his foot is not only '"— 'v^d of hair, but is hard
e callous— proof positi ml its being in perpetual
conttwt with the ground. Now, on the contrary, the
inner side of the bottom of hia foot is soft and rather
hairy.

Peculiarity There is another singularity in the
of the*A^'^aiiatomy of the ont-bear, I believe, as yet
^^- unnoticed in the page of natural history.

He has two very large glands situated below the root
of the tongue. From these is emitted a glutinous
liquid, with which his long tongue is lubricated when
he puts it into the ants* nests. These glands are of the
same substance as those found in the lower jaw of the
woodpecker. The secretion from them, when wet, is
very clammy and adhesive, but on being dried it loses
these qualities, and you can pulverize it betwixt your
finger and thumb; so that, in dissection, if any of it
has got upon 'the fur of the animal, or the feathers of
the bird, allow it to dry there, and then it may be
removed without leaving the least stain behind.

The ant-bear is a pacific animal. He is never the
first to begin the attack. His motto may be, « Noli me
tangere." As his habits and his haunts differ materially
from those of every other animal in the forest, their
interrats never clash, and thus he might live to a good
old age^ and die at last in peace, were it not that his
flesh is good food. On this account, the Indian wages

1.2

US

WAMDBfilKOe IN SOUTH AMERICA.

The Vampire.

perpetual war against him, and as he cannot escape by
flight, he falls an easy prey to tho poisoned arrow,
shot from the Indian's bow at a distance. If ever he
be closely attacked by dogs, he immediately throws
himself on his back, and if he be fortunate enough to
catch hold of his enemy with his tremendous claws, the
invader is sure to pay for his rashness with the loss
of life.
We will now take a view of the Vampire. As there
was a free entrance and exit to the vampire,
in the loft where I slept, I had many a fine
opportunity of paying attention to this nocturnal sur-
geon. He does not always live on blood. "When the
moon shone bright, and the fruit of the banana-tree
was ripe, I could see him approach and eat it. He
would also bring into the loft, from the forest, a green
round fruit, something like the wild guava, and about
the size of a nutmeg. There was something also, in
the blossom of the sawarri nut-tree, which was grateful
to him ; for on coming up Waratilla creek, in a moon-
light night, I saw several vampires fluttering round the
top of the sawarri-tree, and every now and then the
blossoms, which V ty had broken ofi^ fell into the
water. They certainly did not drop ofif naturally, for
on examining several of them, they appeared quite
fresh and blooming. So I concluded the vampires
pulled them firom the tree, either to get at the incipient
fruit, or to catch the insects which often take up their
abode in flowers. ^,

The vampire, in general, measures aboarWenty-siz
inches from wing to wing extended, though I once
killed one which measured thirty-two inches. He fre-
qaents old abandoned houses and hollow trees; and

m

m AMERICA.

as he cannot escape by
» tho poisoned arrow,
a distance. If ever he
le immediately throws
be fortunate enough to
s tremendous claws, the
rashness with the loss

the Vampire. As there
ind exit to the vampire,
slept, I had many a fine
1 to this nocturnal sur-
3 on blood. "When the
rait of the banana-tree
troach and eat it. He
from the forest, a green
) wild guava, and about
was something also, in
tree, which was grateful
ratilla creek, in a moon-
ires fluttering round the
rery now and then the
oken ofT, fell into the
; drop off naturally, for
n, they appeared quite
soncluded the vampires
sr to get at the incipient
iiich often take up their

wures abouf twenty-six
tended, though I once
rty-two inches. He fn-
and hollow trees; and

THIRD JOURITBT.

149

sometimes a cluster of them may be seen in the forest
hanging head downwards from the branch of a tree.

Goldsmith seems to have been aware that the vam-
pire hangs in clusters ; for in the " Deserted Village,"
speaking of America, he says, —

" And matted woodt, where birdi forget to ilng,
But lilent bsta In drowsy oliutera uliug."

The vampire has a curious membrane, which rises
from the nose, and gives it a very singular appearance.
It has been remarked before, that there are two species
of vampire in Guiana, a larger and a smaller. The
hxpet sucks men and other animals ; the smaller seems
to confine himself chiefly to birds, I learnt trom a
gentleman, high up ir the river Demerara, that he was
completely unsuccessful with his fowls, on account of
the small vampire. He showed me some that had been
sucked the night before, and they were scarcely able
to walk.

Some years ago I went to the river Paumaron with a
Anecdote. ^^^ gentleman, by name Tarbet. We
hung our hammocks in the thatched loft of a
planter's house. Next morning I heard this gentleman
muttering in his hammock, and now and then letting
fall an imprecation or two, just about the time he ought
to have been saying his morning prayers. « What is
the matter, Sir," said I, softly; « is anything amiss 1 "
"What's the matter!" answered he, surlily; "why,
the vampires have been sucking me to death." As soon
as there was light enough, I went to his hammock, and
saw it much stained with blood. " There," said he,
thrusting bis foot out of the hammock, "see how these
infernal imps have been drawing my life's blood." On

mMmam

iMH

mm

I^WMlfe'inMP'-^'r-'-

leo

WANDBRIMOB IN BOOTH AMERICA.

oxamining his foot, I found the vampire had tapped
his great toe : there was a wound somewhat less than
that made by a leech ; the blood was still oozing ttom
it ; I conjectured he might have lost firom ten to twelve
ounces of blood. Whilst examining it, I think I pot
him into a worse humour by remarking, that a European
surgeon would not have been so generous as to have
blooded him without making a charge. He looked up
in my face, but did not say a word : I saw he was of
opinion that I had better have spared this piece of ill-
timed levity.

speotei of ^* '** ^^^ *^® ^* punishment of this
Urge red Ant ^qq^ gentleman in the ri-er Paumaron.
The next night he was doomed to undergo a kind of
ordeal unknown in Europe. There is a species of large
red ant in Guiana, sometimes called Sanger, sometimes
Coushie. These ants march in millions through the
country, in compact order, like a regiment of soldiers ;
they eat up every insect in their march; and if a house
obstruct their route, they do not turn out of the way,
but go quite through it. Though they sting cruelly
when molested, the planter is not sorry to see them in
his house ; for it is but a passing visil^ and they destroy
every kind of iusect vermin that had taken shelter
under his rool

Now, in the British plantations of Guiana, as well as
in Europe, there is always a little temple dedicated to
the goddess Cloacina. Our dinner had chiefly consisted
of crabs, dressed in rich and different ways. Paumaron
is fiunous for crabs, and strangers who go thither con-
aider them the greatest luxury. The Scotch gentleman
inaie a very capital dinner on crabs; but this change
of diet was productive of unpleasant circumstances : he

a AMERICA.

) vampire had tapped
d Bomewhat leaa than
was still oozing from
ost from ten to twelve
ining it, I think I pat
[fking, that a European
) generous as to have
sharge. He looked up
rord : I saw he was of
pared this piece of ill-

it punishment of this
the ri'er Paumaron.
, to undergo a kind of
ere is a species of large
led Banger, sometimes
, millions through the
, regiment of soldiers ;
march; and if a house
t turn out of the way,
igh they sting cruelly
ot sorry to see them in
visits and they destroy
lat had taken shelter

u9 of Guiana, as well am
le temple dedicated to
!r had chiefly consisted
jrent ways. Paumaron
irs who go thither con-
The Scotch gentleman
irahs; but this change
laat cixoumgtances : he

C^::ilM

■■-wajf;r^::aa:"J.

,

THIRD JOURNBT.

Ul

awoke in the night in that state in which Virgil de-
scribes Cieleno to have been, viz. " fccdissima ventris
proluvles." Up he got, to verify the remark,

" Serial dnt citlui, Kdem propenmni ad nnam."

Now, unluckily for himself, and the nocturnal tran-
quillity of the planter's house, just at that unfortunate
hour the coushie ants were passing across the seat of
Cloacina's temple ; he had never dreamed of this ; and
80, turning his face to the door, he placed himself in
the usual situation which the votaries of the goddess
generally tnke. Had a lighted match dropped upon a
pound of gunpowder, as he afterwards remarked, it
could not have caused a greater recoil. Up he jumped,
and forced his way out, roaring .'or help and for a light,
for he was worried alive by ten thousand devils. The
fact is, he had sat down upon an intervening body of
coushie .-wts. Many of those which escaped being
crushed to death, turned again'; and, in revenge, stung
the unintentional intruder most severely. The watch-
man had fallen asleep, and it was some time before a
light could be procured, the fire having gone out ; in
the meantime, the poor gentleman was suffering an in-
describable martyrdom, and would have found himself
more at home in the Augean stable than in the planter's
house.

I had often wished to have been once sacked by the
vampire, ip. order that I might have it in my power to
say it had really happened to me. There can be no
pain in the operation, for the patient is always asleep
when the vampire is sucking him ; and as for the loss
of a few oonces of blood, that would be a trifle in the
long ran. Many a night have I slept with my foot out

i«i

■«»■■»!-

16t

WANDERmOB IN BOUTn AMBItlOA.

of the hammock to tempt this winged gurgoon, expect-
ing that he would be there ; but it was all in vain ; the
vampire never sucked me, and I could never account
for his not doing so, for we were inhabita;its of the
same loft for months together.

The AniM- The Armadillo is very common in these
"*"'"■ forests ; he burrows in the sand-hills like a

rabbit As it often takes a considerable time to dig
him out of his hole, it would be a long and laborious
business to attack each hole indiscriminately without
knowing whether the animal were there or not. To
prevent disappointment, the Indians caref^dly examine
the mouth of the hole, and put a short stick down it.
I^owif, on introducing the stick, a number of mosquitos
oome out, the Indians know to a certainty that the
armadillo is in it : wherever there are no mosquitos
in the hole, there is no armadillo. The Indian having
satisfied himself that the armadillo is there, by the
mosquitos which come out, he immediately cuts a long
and slender stick, and introduces it into the hole ; he
carefully observes the line the stick takes^ and then
sinks a pit in the sand to catch the end of it : this
done, he puts it further into the hole, and digs another
pit, and so on, till at lust he comes up with the arma-
dillo, which had been making itself a passage in the
sand till it had exhausted all its strength through pure
exertion. I have been sometimes three quarters of a
day in digging out one armadillo, and obliged to sink
half-a-dozen pits, seven feet deep, before I got up to it.
The Indians and negroes are very fond of the flesh, but
I consider it strong and rank.

On laying hold of the armadillo you must be cautious
not to como in contact with his feet : they axe armed

riMM

TO AMBtUOA.

ingod Burgoon, expect-
it was nil in vain ; thti
I could never account
ire iohabitajiitB of the

rery common in these
ti the sand-hills like a
isideroble time to dig
e a long and laborious
discriminately without
Dre there or not. To
ians careAdly examine
1 short stick down it.
a number of mosquitos
) a certainty that the
lere are no mosquitos
). The Indian having
dillo is there, by the
omediately cuts a long
I it into the hole ; he
stick takes^ and then
h the end of it : this
hole, and digs another
nes up with the arma-
tself a passage in the
strength through pure
les three quarters of a
0, and obliged to sink
i, before I got up to it.
f fond of the flesh, but

io you must be cautious
I feet : they axe armed

THIRD JOURNKT.

IBS

with sharp claws, and with thorn he will inflict a severe
wound in solf-dofunci) : when not molested, ho is very
harmless and innocent ; ho would put you in mind of
the hare in Gay's Fables, —

'* WhoiHf care wu nevor to offbnci.
And evtiry creaturo wu hor frienil."

The armadillo swims well in time of need, but does
not go into the water by choice. He is very seldom
seen abroad during the day ; and when surprisp 1, ho is
sure to bo near the mouth >f his hole. Everv part of
the armadillo u well protected by his sh'-iJ, except ,hi8
ears. In life, this shell is verr limbec so that the
animal is enabled to go at fr^l stretch or roll himself
up into a ball, as occasion may require.

On inspecting the arrangoment of the shell, ; ^uts
you very much in mind of a coat of armour ; ; .idued it
is a natural coat of armour to the ar , "'■'io, and being
composed both of scale and bone it . tfords ample
security, and has a pleasing effect.

The und Often, when roving in the wilds, I would
lortoiM. fall in ^^tij tijg Land to'^^o^^e; he too adds
another to the list of unoffending anin:&ls ; he subsists
on the fallen fruits of the forest When an enemy
approaches he never thinks of moving, but quietly
draws himself under his shell, and there awaits his
doom in patience. He only seems to have two enemies
who can do him any damage ; one of these is the boa
constrictor : this snake swallows the tortoise alive, shell
and alL But a boa bxge enough to do this is very
scarce^ and thus Ihe^ it. . iot much to apprehend from
that quarter. The olhei.- enemy is man, who takes up
the tortoise, and carries him away. Man also is scarce
in them never-erding wilds, and the little depredations

154

WANDEBmOS IN SOITIH AlfBRICA.

he may commit upon the tortoiea -will he nothing, or a
mere trifle. The tiger's teeth cannot penetrate its shell,
nor can a stroke of his paws do it any damage. It is
of so compact and strong a nature, that there is a com-
mon saying, a London waggon might roll over it and
not break it.

Ere we proceed, let us take a retrospective view of
the five animals just enumerated ; they are all quad-
rupeds, and have some very particular mark, or mode of
existence, different from all other animals. The sloth
has four feet, hut never can use them to support his
body on the earth ; they want soles, which are a marked
feature in the feet of other animals. The ant-bear has
not a tooth in his hp-ui, still he roves fearless on, in
the same forests with the jaguar and boa constrictor.
The vampire does not make use of his feet to walk, but
to stretch a membrane, which enables him to go up into
an element, where no other quadruped is seen. The
armadillo has only here and there a ctraggling hair, and
has neither fur, nor wool, nor bristles, but in lieu of
them has received a movable shell, on which are scales
very much like those of fishes. The tortoise is oviparoui^
entirely without any appearance of hair, and is obliged
to accommodate itself to a shell which is quite hard
and inflexible, and in no point of view whatever
obedient to the will or pleasure of the bearer. The egg
of the tortoise has a very hard shell, while that of the
turtle is quite soft.

In some parts of these forests I saw the
YanUla growing luxuriantly. • It creeps up
the trees to the height of thirty or forty feet I found
it difficult to get a ripe pod, as the monkeys are very
fond of it, and generally take care to get there before

The Vaoills.

TH AlOSRICA.

'3 urill be nothing, or a
inot penetrate its shell,

0 it any damage. It is
re, that there is a com-

might roll over it and

a retrospeotive -view of
ed ; they are all qnad-
icular mark, or mode of
Ler animalB. The sloth
le them to support his
[es, which are a marked
lals. The ant-bear has
e roves fearless on, in
r and boa constrictor,
of his feet to walk, but
ables him to go up into
idruped is seen. The
e a Gtraggling hair, and
iristles, but in lien of
)1I, on which are scales
le tortoise is oviparous^
of hair, and is obliged

1 which is quite hard
at of view whatever
if the bearer. The egg
lell, while that of the

tese forests I saw the
riantly. • It creeps up
w forty feet I found
I the monkeys ate very
re to get there before

iiiiii

*T\

THIRD JOUBNXT.

155

me. The pod hangs from the tree in the shape of a
little scabbai-d. Vayna is the Spanish for a scabbard,
and Vanilla for a little scabbard. Hence the name.
„^ ^ In Mibiri creek there was a Cayman of

Shoots a , ,,

Cayman in the small species, measuring about five feet

Mlblri creek. . , ^, ^t -i. • x,

in length ; I saw it in the same place for
months, but could never get a shot at it ; for the
moment I thought I was sure of it, it dived under the
water before I could pUll the trigger. At last I got an
Indian with his bow and arrow ; he stood up in the
canoe with his bow already bent, and as we drifted past
the place, he sent his arrow into the cayman's eye, and
killed it dead. The skin of this little species is much
harder and stronger than that of the large kind ; itu
good food, and tastes like veaL

Negio aer- My friend, Mr. Edmonstono, had very
^"'** kindly let me have one of his old negroes,

and he constantly attended me ; his name was Daddy
Quashi; he had a brave stomach for heterogeneous
food ; it could digest, and relish too, caymen, monkeys,
hawks, and grubs. The Daddy made three or four
meals on this cayman while it was not absolutely
putrid, and salted the rest I could ne\ ""r get him to
JEice a snake; the horror he betrayed on seeing one
was beyond description : I asked him why he was so
terribly alarmed ; he 6aid it was by seeing so many
dogs, £cQm time to time, killed by them.

„ , . Here I had a fine opportunitv of examin-

Species of . . f\ „ . ,

the capii- ing several species of the Capnmulgus. I
am fidly persuaded that these innocent little
birds never suck the herds ; for when they approach
them, and jump up at their udders, it is to cateh the
iiiss and insects there. When the moon shone bright,

adiSliB!

iiiHi

iU

^^HJH,

ittm

156

WANDBRINOB IN SOUTH AMERICA.

I would frequently go and stand within three yards of a
cow, and distinctly see the caprimulgus catch the flies
on its udder. On looking for them in the forest, during
the day, I either found them on the ground, or else
invariably sitting loTigitudinally on the branch of a tree,
not crostwite, like all other birds.

TheWaiTw. ^^^ Wasps, or Maribuntas, are great
OT Haribon-' plagues in these forests, and require the
naturalist to be cautious as he wanders up
and down. Some make their nests pendent from the
branches ; others have them fixed to the underside of
a leaf Now, in passing on, if you happen to disturb
one of these, they sally forth and punish you severely.
The largest kind is blue ; it brings blood where its
sting enters, and causes pain and inflammation enough
to create a fever. The Indians make a fire under the
nest, and after killing, or driving away the old ones,
they roast the young grubs in the comb and eat them.
I tried them once by way of dessert after dinner, but
my stomach was offended at their intrusion ; probably
it was more the idea than the taste that caused the
stomach to rebeL
Time and experience have convinced me that there
snakea and u not much danger in roving amongst snakes
wud beasts. ^^^ ^q^j beasts, provided only that you have
self-command. You mupt never approach them 'ab-
ruptly ; if so, you are sure to pay for your rashness ;
because the idea of self-defence is predominant in every
animal, and thus the snake, to defend himself from
what he considers an attack upon him, makes the
intruder feel the deadly effect of his poisonous fangs^
The jaguar flies at you, and knocks you senseless with a
atroke of his paw ; whereas, if you had not come U|k>|ii

J'
1

sj

P
tl

n

li

oi

X\

St

h

tHitlKfy:

riiM

FH AHKRIOA.

within three yards of a
imulgus catch the fiiea
)m in the forest, during
on the ground, or else
)n the branch of a tree,

KCaribuntas, are great
ests, and require the
bious as he wanders up
aests pendent from the
ced to the underside of
^ou happen to disturb
d punish you severely,
irings blood where its
d inflammation enough
make a fire under the
ng away the old ones,
tie comb and eat them,
ssert after dinner, but
ir intrusion; probably
I taste that caused the

m-vinced me that there
roving amongst snakes
ded only that you have
er approach them'ab-
pay for your rashness ;
s predominant in every
I defend himself &om
ipon him, makes the
f his poisonous fangs^
:ks you senseless wiih #
ou had not come uppin

THIRD JOUBNBT.

157

him too suddenly, it is ten to one but that he h^vi
retired, in lieu of disputing the path with you. The
labarri snake is very poisonous, and I have often
approached within two yards of him without fear. I
took care to move very softly and gently, without
moving my arms, and he always allowed me to have a
fine view of him, without showing the least inclination
to make a spring at me. He would appear to keep his
eye fixed on me, as though suspicious, but that was all.
Sometimes I have taken a stick ten feet long, and
placed it on the labarri's back. He would then glide
away without ofiering resistance. But when I put the
end of the stick abruptly to his head, he immediately
opened his mouth, flew at it, and bit it

Catches a ^°® ^^^' "^^^ ^ ^ee how the poison
ih^^ Labarri comes out of the fang of the snake, I caught
a labarri alive. He was about eight feet long.
I held him by the neck, and my hand was so near his
jaw, that he had not room to move his head to bite it.
This was the only position I could have held him in
with safety and effect To do so, it only required a little
resolution and coolnesa I then took a small piece of
stick in the other hand, and pressed it against the fang,
which is invariably in the upper jaw. Towards the
point of the fang, there is a little oblong aperture on
the convex side of it Through this, tLew is a com-
munication down the fang to the root>, at v/hich lies a
little bag containing the poison. Nov, vhen the point
of the fiujg is pressed, the root of the fang al ,o presses
against the bag, and sends up a portion of ihc poison
therein contained. Thus, when I applied a piece of
stick to the point of the fang, there came out of the
hole a liquor thick and yellow, like strong camomile

^

mmmim

mmmmii

1S8

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMEBIOA.

tea. This was the poison, which is so dreadfdl in its
)ffects, as to render the labarri snake one of the most

■oisonous in the forests of Guiana. I once caught a
:ine labarri, and made it bite itself I forced the

oisonous fang into its belly. In a few minutes I
i lought it was going to die, for it appeared dull and
L avy. However, in half an hour's time, he Was as
b sk and vigorous as ever, and in the course of the day
b: j wed no symptoms of being afifected. Is then the life
of the snake proof against its own poison 1 This subject
is not unworthy of the consideration of the naturalist

The B«to- !& GuJana there is a little insect in the
'"'*'■ grass, and on the shrubs, which the French

call B^te-rouge. It is of a beautiful scarlet colour,
and so minute, that you must bring your eye close
to it before you can perceive it. It is most numerous
in the rainy season. Its bite causes an intolerable
itching. The best way to get rid of it, is to rub the
part affected with oil or rum. You must be careful
not to scratch it If you do so, and break the skin,
you expose yourself <o a sore. The first year I was
in Guiana, the b^te-rouge, and my own want of loiow-
ledge, and, I may add, the little attention I paid to it;
created an ulcer above the ankle, which annoyed me for
six months, and if I hobbled out into the grass, a
number of bSte-rouge would settle on the edges of the
sore, and increase the inflammation.

The Still more inconvenient, painful, and an-

^•«°'- noying is another little pest, called the
Chegoe. It looks exactly like a very small flea, and a
stranger would take it Tor one. However, in about
four and tventy hours, he would have several broad
hints that he had made a mistake in his ideas of the

H AMEBIOA.

i is SO dreadful in its
make one of the most
liana. I once caught a
) it8el£ I forced the
In a few minutes I
>r it appeared dull and
bour's time, he was as
in the course of the day
fected. Is then the life
m. poison t This subject
ition of the naturalist
B a little insect in the
ubs, which the French
eautifttl scarlet colour,
b bring your eye close
It is most numerous
) causes an intolerable
rid of it, is to rub the

You must be careful
3, and break the skin,

The first year I was
ny own want of loiow-
3 attention I paid to it;
i which annoyed me for
out into the grass, a
ile on the edges of the
ion.

enient, painful, and an-
little pest, called the
a Tery small flea, and a
e. However, in about
lid have several broad
Ake in his ideas of the

THIRD JOORNBT.

169

animal It attacks different parts of the body, but
chiefly the feet, betwixt the toe-nails and the flesh.
There it bi a itse'f, and at first causes an itching not
unpleasuut. In a day or so, after examining the part,
you perceive a place about the size of a pea, somewhat
discoloured, rather of a blue appearance. Sometimes it
happens that the itching ia so trivial, you are not aware
that the miner is at work. Time, they say, makes
great discoveries. The discoloured part turns out to be
the nest of the chegoe, containing hundreds of eggs,
which, if allowed to hatch there, the young ones will
i>oon begin to form other nests, and in time cause a
spreading ulcer. As soon as you perceive that yoa
have got the chegoe in your flesh, you must take a
needle, or a bharp-pointed knife, and take it out If
the nest be formed, great care must be taken not to
break it, otherwise some of the eggs remain in the flesh,
and then you will soon be annoyed with more chegoes.
Alter removing the nest, it ia well to drop spirit of
turpentine into the hole; that will most effectually
destroy any chegoe that may be lurking there. Some-
times I have taken four nests out of my feet in the
course of the day.

Every evening, before sun-down, it was part of my
toilette to examine my feet, and see that they were
dear of chegoes. I^ow and then a nest would escape
the scrutiny, and then I had to smart for it a day or
two after. A chegoe once lit upon the back of my
hand ; wishful to see how he worked, I allowed him to
take possession. He immediately set to work, head
foremost, and in about half an hour he had completely
buried himself in the skin. I then let him feel the
point of my knife, and exterminated him.

ii^tfSWfe's

Im

'.'■KiiriJS?y/,^^^eiiVmi,-'^\\:-:,-^'iWi^^

v.-Ht*^^

r

160

WANOERINOa IK SOUTH AMERICA.

Tick*.

More than once, after sitting down upon
a rotten stump, I have found myself covered
■with Ticks. There is a short and easy way to get quit
of these unwelcome adherents. Make a large fire and
stand close to it, and if you be covered with ticks, they
will aU faU off.

Let us now forget for awhile the quadrupeds, ser-
pents, and insects, and take a transitory view of the
native Indians of these forests.

Principal There are five principal nations or tribes
tribeaof In- o^ Indians in ci-d,evant Dutch Guiana, com-
^"'"- , monly known by the name of Warow, Aro-

waok, Acoway, Carib, and Macoushi. They live in small
hamlets, which consist of a few huts, never exceeding
twelve in number. These huts are always in the forest,
near a river or some creek. They are open on all
sides, (except those of the Macoushi,) and covered
with a species of palm leaf.

Their principtd furniture is the hammock. It serves
Their bam- ^^^""^ ^^^ ^or chair and bed. It is com-
"'**'* monly made of cotton j though those of the

Warows are formed from the seta-tree. At night they
always make a fire doee to it The heat keeps them
warm, and the smoke drives away the mosquitos and
sand-flies. Tou sometimes find a table in the hut ; but
it was not made by the Indians, but by some negro, or
mulatto carpenter.

They cut down about an acre or two of
the trees which surround the huts, and thera
plant pei)per, papaws, sweet and bitter cassava, plan-
tains, sweet potatoes, yams, pine-apples, and silk-^gAus.
Besides these, they generally have a few alcrea in some
fertile part of the forest for their cassava, which is as

Oocnpttions.

TH AMERICA.

ifter sitting down upon
re found myself covered
nd easy way to get quit
Make a large fire and
iOTered with ticks, they

!e the quadrupeds, ser-
transitory view of the

incipal nations or tribes
nl Dutch Guiana, com-
9 name of Warow, Aro-
ishi. They live in small
' huts, never exceeding
ure always in the forest,
They are open on all
itcottshi,) and covered

le hammock. It serves
' and bed. It is com-
a ; though those of the
ba-tree. At night they
The heat keeps them
vay the mosquitos and
1 table in the hut ; but
but by some negro, or

)0ut an acre or two of
and the huts, and there
d bitter cassava, plan-
t-apples, and silkigAus.
ve a few alcres in somo
ir cassava, which is as

mm

THIRD JOURNBT.

161

bread to them. Thoy make earthen pots to boil their
provisions in; and they get from the white men flat
circular plates of iron, on which they bake their cas-
sava. They have to grate the cassava before it is
pressed, preparatory to baking ; and those Indians who
are too far in the wilds to procure graters from the
white men, make use of a flat piece of wood, studded vdth
sharp stones. They have no cows, horses, mules, goats,
sheep, or asses. The men hunt and fish, and the women
work in the provision-ground, and cook their victuals.
* Femented ^^ ^^^ hamlet there is the trunk of a
liquor. ]a,Tge tree, hollowed out like a trough. In

this, from their cassava, they make an abominable ill-
tasted and sour kind of fermented liquor, called piwarri.
They are very fond of it, and never feU to get drunk
after every brewing. The frequency of the brewing
depends upon the superabundance of cassava.

Soth men and women go without clothes. The men
_^ , have a cotton wrapper, and the women a

Thelrhabitfc , , , .

bead-ornamented square piece of cotton,
about the size of your hand, for the fig-lea£ Those far
away in the interior, use the bark of a tree for this
purpose. They are a very clean people, and wash in
the river, or creek, at least twice every day. They
paint themselves with the roucou, sweetly perfumed
with hayawa or accaiari. Their hair is black and lank,
and never curled. The women braid it up fancifully,
something in the shape of Diana's head-dress in ancient
pictures. They have very few diseases. Old age and
pulmonary complaints seem to be the chief agents for
removing them lo another world. The pulmonary com-
plaints are genentlly brought on by a severe cold, which
they do not know how to arrest in its progress, by the

169

WAMOBRIKOa IN SOOTH AUBRIOA.

i

use of the lancet I never saw an idiot amongst them,
nor could I perceive any that were deformed firom their
birth. Their women never perish in childbed, owing,
no doubt, to their never wearing stays.

They have no public religions ceremony,
onitomiand They acknowledge two superior beings, — a

oenmoniet. , , , , >.., ,

good one and a bad one. They pray to the
latter not to hurt them, and they are of opinion that
the former is too good to do them an iivjury. I suspect,
if the truth were known, the individuals of the village
never offer up a single prayer or ejaculation. They
have a kind of priest, called a Pee-ay-man, who is an
enchanter. He finds out things lost. He mutters
prayers to the evil spirit over them and their children
when they are sick. If a fever be in the village, the
Pee-ay-man goes about all night long, howling and
making dreadM noises, and begs the bad spirit to
depart Sut he has very seldom to perform this part
of his duty, as fevers seldom visit ti.o Indian hamlets.
However, when a fever does come, and his incantations
are of no avail, which I imagine is most commonly the
case, they abandon the place for ever, and make a new
settlement elsewhere. They consider the owl and the
goatsucker as familiars of the evil spirit, and never
destroy them.

I could find no monuments or marks of antiquity
amongst these Indians; so that after penetrating to
the Rio Bronco, £y>m the shores of the Western Ocean,
had anybody questioned me on this subject, I should
have answered, I have seen nothing amongst these
Indians which tells me that they have existed here
for a ccintury ] though, for aught I know to the con-
trary, they may have been here before the Bedemptiou ;

^mmttKmmim

a AHBRIOA.

m idiot amongst them,
re defonned from their
sh in childbed, owing,
stays.

ic religions ceremony,
ro superior beings, — a
le. They pray to the
ay are of opinion that
I an iivjury. I suspect,
iividuals of the village
or ejaculation. They
?ee-ay-man, who is an
p lost. He mutters
lem and their children
be in the village, the
it long, howling and
egs the bad spirit to
1 to perform this part
it ti.o Indian hamlets.
B, and his incantations
is most commonly the
ever, and make a new
isider the owl and the
9vil spirit, and never

)r marks of antiquity
i after penetrating to
>f the Western Ocean,
this subject, I should
ithing amongst these
ey have existed here
t I know to the conr
ifoxe the Bedemptiou ;

THIRD JOCBRIT.

163

but their total want of civilization has assimilated
them to the forests in which they wander. Thus, an
aged tree falls and moulders into dust, and you cannot
tell what was its appearance, its beauties, or its diseases
amongst the neighbouring trees ; another has ohot \ip
in its pkice, and after nature has had her course, it will
make way for a successor in its turn. So it is with the
Indian of Guiana : he is now laid low in the dust ; he
has left no record behiiid him, either on parchment, or
on a stone, or in earthenware, to say what he has done.
Perhaps the place where his buried ruins lie was un-
healthy, and the survivors have left it long ago, and
gone far away into the wilds. All that you can say is,
the trees where I stand appear lower and smaller tiiah
the rest, and from this I coiyecture that some Indians
may have had a settlement here formerly. Were I by
chance to meet the son of the father who moulders
here, he could tell me that his £gither was famous for
slaying tigers and serpents and caymen, and noted in
the chase of the tapir and wild boar, but that he re-
members little or nothing of his grandfather.

They are very jealous of their liberty, and much
attached io their own mode of living. Though those
in the neighbourhood of the European settlements have
constant communication with the whites, they have no
inclination to become civilized. Some Indians who
have accompanied white men to Europe, on returning
to tlieir own land, have thrown off their clothes^ and
gone back into the forests.

In George-town, the capital of Demerara, there is a
large shed, open on all sides, built for them by order of
government. Hither the Indians come with monkeys,
parrots, bows and arrows, nnrl pegalls. They sell these

x3

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)■

164

WANDEmwaS IN SOUTH AMEIllCA.

to the white men for mcnoy, and too often purchaae
rum with it, to which they are wonderfully nddictod.

Ooveramont allows them annual presents, in order to
have their services when the colony deems it necessary
to scour tho forests in quest of runaway negroes. For-
merly these expeditions were headed by Charles Edmon-
stone, Esq. now of Cardross-park, near Dumbarton.
This brave colonist never returned frim tho woods
without being victorious. Once, in an attack upon tho
rebel negroes' camp, he led the way, and received two
balla in his body j at tho same moment that he was
wounded, two of his Indians fell dead by his side ; he
recovered after his life was despaired of, but the bulls
could never ha extracted.

Since the above appeared in print, I have had the
account of this engagement with tho negroes in the
forest from Mr. Edmonstone's own mouth.

He received four slugs in bia body, as will be seen in
tiie stjqueL

The plantations of Demerara and Essequibo are
bounded by an almost interminable extent of forest.
Hither the runaway negroes repair, a. id form settle-
ments, from whence they issue to annoy the colonists,
as occasion may offer.

In 1801, the runaway slaves had increased to an
alarming extent. The Governor gave orders, that an
expedition should be immediately organized, and pro-
ceed to the woods, under the command of Charles
Edmonstone, Esq. General Hislop Rent him a corporal,
a sergeant, and eleven men, and he was joined by a part
of the colonial militia, and by sixty Indians.

With this force Mr. Edmonstone entered the forest,
iiad proceeded in a direction towards Mahaica.

«

^m

n AMERICA.

,nd too often purchaae
wonderfully nddictod,
lal presents, in order to
iony deems it necessary
unaway negroes. For-
ded by Charles Edmon-
)ark, near Dumbarton,
imed from the woods
I, in an attack upon ttio
way, and received two
e moment that he was
ill dead by his side ; he
ipaired of, but the balls

print, I have had the
ith the negroes in the
wn mouth,
body, as will be seen in

ra and Essequibo are
inable extent of forest,
epair, a, id form settle-
to annoy the colonists,

)B had increased to an
9r gave orders, that an.
;ely organized, and pro-
e command of Charles
ilop Rent him a corporal,
[ he was joined by ft part
sixty Indians,
stone entered the forest,
(rards Mahaica.

mmm

- ii|iy.yjiii|4un

THIRD JOCRNET.

Ufi

He marched for eight days tlirough swamps, and over
places obstructed by fallen trees and the bush-rope ;
tormented by myriads of mosquitos, and ever in fear
of treading on the poisonous snakes, which can scarcely
be distinguished from the fallen leaves.

At last he reaclifid a wooded sand-hill, where the
Maroons had intrenchc 1 lomselves in great force. Not
expecting to come «o soon upon them, Mr. Edmonstono,
Ills faithful man Coffee; and two Indian chiefs, found
themselves considerably a-head of their own party. As
yet, they were unperoeived by the enemy, but, unfortu-
nately, one of the Indian chiefs fired a random shot at
a distant Maroon. Immediately the whole negro camp
turned out, and formed themselves in a crescent, in
front of Mr. Edmonstona Thei.' chief was an uncom-
monly fine negro, about six feet in height ; and his
head-dress was that of an African warrior, ornamented
with a profusion of small shells. He advanced un-
dauntedly with his gun in his hand, and, in insulting
language, called out to Mr. Edmonstone to come on and
fight him.

Mr. Edmonstone approached him slowly, in order
to give his own men time to come up ; but they were
yet too far oflf for him to profit by this manoeuvre.
Coffee, who carried his master's gun, now stepped up
behind him, and put the gun into his hand, which
Mr. Edmonstone received without advancing it to his
shoulder.

He was now within a few yards of the Maroon chief,
who seemed to betray some nymptoms of uncertainty ;
for instead of firing directly at Mr. Edmonstone, he
took a step sideways and r-jsted his gun against a tree,
no doubt with the intention of fcilsing a surer aim.

■MklMMii

»**»'

166

WAKDERIN08 IW HOUTH AMBBICA.

Mr. E(lmon«tone, on perceiving thia, immodiatoly cockeil
his gun, and fired it off, itill holding it in the iwBitioii
in which he hatl received it from Coffee.

The whole of the contents entered the negro's hody,
and hn dropped dead on his face.

The ne^rc^fti, who had formed in a crescent, now in
their turn fired a volley, which brought Mr. Ednion-
stone and his two Indian chiefs to the ground. Tiio
Maroons did not stand to reload, but on Mr. Edmon-
stone's party coming up, they fled precipitately into the
surrounding forest.

Four slugs had entered Mr. Edmonstone's body.
Aftof coming to himself, on looking around he saw one
of the fallen Indian chieifs bleeding by his side. He
accosted him by name, and said he hoped he was not
much hurt. The dying Indian had just strength enough
to answer, " Oh no," — and then expired. The other
chief was lying quite dead. He must have received
his mortal wound just as he was in the act of cocking
his gun to fire on the negroes ; for it appeared that the
ball which gave him his death-wound had carried off
the first joint of his thumb, and passed through his
forehead. By this time his wife, who had accompanied
the expedition, came up. She was a fine young woman,
and had her long black hair fancifully braided in a
knot on the top of her head, fastened with a silver
ornament She unloosed it, and falling on her hus-
band's body, covered it with her hair, bewailing hia
untimely end with the most heart-rending cries.

The bk>od was now running out of Mr. Edmonstone's
shoes. On being raised up, he ordered his men to pur-
sue the flying Maroons, requesting at the same time
that he might be left where he had fallen, as he felt

f

t AMERICA.

[a, immodiately cocketl

lin^ it in thu iK>8itioii

Coffeo.

>rod the negro's hody,

in a crescent, now in
brought Mr. Ednion-
to the ground. Tiie
1, but on Mr. Edmon-
1 precipitately into the

Edmonstone's body,
ing around he saw one
ling by his side. Ho

he hoped he was nut
d just strength enough
I expired. The other
0 must have received
9 in the act of cocking
or it appeared that the
wound had carried off
id passed through his
, who had accompanied
18 a fine young woman,
incifuUy braided in a
fastened with a silver
id falling on her bus-
ier hair, bewailing hiu
rt-rending cries,
ut of Mr. Edmonstone's
>rdered his men to pur-
iting at the same time
e had fallen, as he felt

THIRD JOURNET.

167

that ho was mortally wounded. They gently placed
him on the ground, and after the pursuit of tlie
Maruons had ended, tlie corporal and sergeant returned
to their commander, and formed their men. On his
asking what this nu ant, the sergeant replied, " I had
the General's ordorH, on setting out from town, not to
leave you in the forest, happen what might" By slow
and careAil marches, as much as tlie obstructions in the
woods would admit of, the party reached Plantation
Alliance, on the bank of the Demorara, and from thence
it crossed the river to Plantation Vrrulostoin.

The news of the rencounter had beun spread far and
wide by the Indians, and had already reached town.
The Oaneral, Captains Macrai ami Johnstone, and
Doctor Dunkin, proceeded to Vrodcstcin. On examin-
ing Mr. Edmonstone's wounds, four slugs were found
to have entered the body ; one was extracted, the rest
remained there till the year 1824, when another was
out out by a professional gentleman of Port-Glasgow.
The other two still remain in the body ; and it is sup-
posed that either one or both have touched a nerve,
as they cause almost continual pain. Mr. Edmonstone
has commanded fifteen different expeditions in the
forest in quest of the Maroons. The Colonial Govern-
ment has requited his services, by freeing his pro-
perty firom all taxea, and presenting him a handsome
sword, and a silver urn bearing the following inscrip-
tion :— -

"Presented to Charies Edmonstone, Esq. by the Governor
and Court of Policy of the Colony of Demerara; as a token of
the*r esteem, and the deep sense they entertain of the very groat
aotlTity and spirit manifested by him, on various occasions, in
bis saoceasful exertions for the internal security of the Colony. —
Jamuary \a, 1809."

168

WANDEBIXOS IN SOOTH AMERICA.

1 J

»i f

I do not believe that there is a single Indian in ci-
devant Dutch Guiana who can read or write,
OenersiBe- jiqj am J awaie that any wHite man has
reduced their language to the rules of gram-
map ; some may have made a short manuscript vocabu-
lary of the few necessary words, but that is alL Here
and there a white man, and some few people of colour,
talk the language well. The temper of the Indian of
Guiana is mild and gentle, and he is very fond of his
children.

Some ignorant travellers and colonists call these
Indians a lazy race. Men in general will not be active
without an object. Now, when the Indian has caught
plenty of fish, and killed game enough to last him for
a week, what need has ho to range the forest 1 He has
no idea of making pleasure-grounds. Money is of no
use to him, for in these wilds there are no markets for
him to frequent, nor milliners' shops for his wife and
daughters; he has no taxes to pay, no highways to
keep up, no poor to maintain, nor army nor navy to
supply ; he lies in his hamniock both night and day,
(for he has no chair or bed, neither does he want them,)
and in it he forms his bow, and makes his arrows, and
repairs his fishing-tackle. But as soon as he has con-
sumed his provisions, he then rouses himself and. like
the lion, scours the forest in quest of food. He plunges
into the river after the deer and tapir, and swims across
it ; passes through swamps and quagmires, and never
fails to obtain a sufficient supply of food. Should
the approach of night stop his career while he is hunt-
ing the wild boar, he slops for the night, and continues
the chase the next morning. In my way through the
wilds to the Portuguese frontier, I had a proof of this.

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AHEBIOA.

a single Indian in ci-
'ho can read or write,
any wUite man has
to the roles of gram-
t manuscript vocabu-
lut that is alL Here
few people of colour,
iper of the Indian of
B is very fond of hie

colonists call these
>ral will not be active
he Indian has caught
aongh to last him for
i the forest 1 He has
ids. Money is of no
>re are no markets for
lops for his wife and
pay, no highways to
lor army nor navy to

both night and day,
ir does he want them,)
nakes his arrows, and
,8 soon as he has con-
ses himself and. like
b of food. He plunges
ipir, and swims across
quagmires, and never
ly of food. Should
ceer while he is hunt-
) night, and continues

my way through the
[ had a proof of this.

THIRD JOURNEY.

169

We were eight in number, six Indians, a negro, and
myself. About ten o'clock in the morning we observed
the feet-mark of the wild boars ; we judged by the fresh-
ness of the marks that they had passed that way early
the same morning. As we were not gifted, like the
hound, with scent, and as we had no dog with us, we
followed their track by the eye. The Indian after game
is as Hure with his eye as the dog is with his nosa
We followed the herd till three in the afternoon, then
gave up the chase for the present ; made our fires close
to a creek where there was plenty of fish, . and then
arranged the hammocks. In an hour the Indians shot
more fish with their arrows than we could consume.
Ihe night was beautifully serene and clear, and the moon
shone as bright as day. Next mom we roue at dawn, got
breakfast, packed up, each took his burden, and then we
put ourselves on the track of th. wild boars, which we
had been following the day before. We supposed that
they, too, would sleep that night in the forest, as we
had done ; and thus the delay on our part would be no
tlisadvantage to us. This was just the case, for about
nine o'clock their feet-mark became fresher and fresher :
wa now doubled our pace, .but did not give mouth like
hounds. We pushed on in silence, and soon came up
with them ; there were about one hundred of them ;
we killed six, and the rist took off in different direc-
tions. Sut to the point.

Amongst us the need^ - man works from light to dark .
for a maintenance. Sh' >uld this man chance to acquire
a fortune, he soon chan {es his habits. No longer under
" strong necessity's sup nme command," he contrives to
get out of bed between . nine and ten in the morning.
His servant helps hiii to dress, he walks on a soft

lil»M«iiriiiwiMiililtinni»mg8i>Mi »f1>iiii«liiii i,.Ti',;<iiiiiftl7<"iiiililltlh"i

;»~

170

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

carpet to his breakfaBt table, his wife pours out his tea,
and his servant hands him his toast. After breakfast,
the doctor advises a little gentle exercise in the car-
riage for an hour or so. At dinner-t^me he sits down
to a table groaning beneath the weight of heteroge-
neous luxurv ; thwe he rests upon a chair for three or
four ittfum. (:«ts, drinks, and talks (often unmeaningly)
till tea in announced. He puweeds slowly to the draw-
ing-room, and there spends best part of his time in
sitting, till his wife tempts him with something warm
for supper. After supper, he still remains on his chair
at rest, till he retires for the night. He mounts
leisurely upstairs upon a carpet, and enters his bed-
room : there, one would hope that at least he mutters
a prayer or two, though perhaps not on bended knee :
he then lets himself drop into a soft and downy bed,
over which has just passed the comely Jenny's warm-
ing-pan. Now, could the Indian in his turn see this
he would call the white men a lazy, indolent set.

Perhaps then, upon due reflection, you would draw
this conclusion; that men will always be indolent
where there is no object to rouse them.

As the Indian of Guiana has no idea

Indian me-
thod Tof com- whatever of communicating his intentions
inonicatlon. ...

by wntmg, he has fallen upon a plan of
commanication sure and simple. When two or three
families have determined to come down the river and
pay you a visit, they send an Indian beforehand with a
string of beads. You take ens bead ofif every day ;
and on the day that the string is headless, they atiive
at yoiur house.

In finding their way .through tbese pathless wilds,
the sun is to them what Ariadne's ciue was to Theseas.

a
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AMERICA.

rife poura out his tea,
ist. After breakfast,
> exercise in the car-
er-t?me he sits down
weight of heteroge-
in a chair for three or
I (often unmeaningly)
Is slowly to the draw-
part of his time in
ndth something warm
I remains on his chair
night. He mounts
and enters his bed-
it at least he mutters
not on bended knee :
soft and downy bed,
omely Jenny's warm-
L in his turn see this
Y, indolent set.
ion, you would draw
always be indolent
bhem.

Guiana has no idea
sating hia intentions
illen upon a plan of
When two or three
a down the river and
[an beforehand with a
bead off every day ;
) headless, they anive

these pathlesi wilds,
B due was to Theseos.

mmd.

THIBD JOURIvET.

171

"When he is on the meridian, they generally sit down,
and roTO onwards again as soon as he has sufficiently
declined to the west ; they require no other compass.
When in chase, they break a twig on the bushes as
they pass by, every three or four hundred paces, and
this often prevents them from losing their way on their
return.

You will not be long in the forests of Guiana before
you pereeive how very thinly they are inhabited. You
may wander for a week together without seeing a hut.
The wild beasts, the snakes, the swamps, the trees, the
uncurbed luxuriance of everything around you, conspire
to inform you that man has no habitation here — man
has seldr 111 passed this way.

Let U3 now return to natural history. There was a
person making shingles, with twenty or thirty .legroes,
not far from Mibiri-hill. I had offered a rewara to any
of them who would find a good-sized snake in the
forest, and come and let me know where it was. Often
had these negroes looked for a large snake, and as often
been disappointed.

One Sunday morning I met one of them in 'hj
fDrest, and asked him which way he was going : he sai
he was going towards Warratilla Creek to hunt an arma-
dillo : and he had Ms little ilog with him. On coming
back, about noon, the dog V'gan to bark at the rt^oi ,f
a large tree, which had be i < pae< by the whirlwind,
and was lying there ^'w a gi w "l attte of decay. The
negro said, he thought H'* '! g fas barking at an acouri,
which had probably tak'.r refiige under the tree, ind
he went up with an ''■tcntion to kiL' It : he there jaw
a snake, and hasteuui ba'ik to inform me of it.

The sun had ju£c pa^erl the meridian in a cloudless

s

MA&taMWfelMHMMMMMMM

J

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172

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

w

sky; there was scarcely a tird to be seen, for the

winged inhabitants of the forest, as though overcome

by heat, had retired to the thickest shade : all
Goes In n , , ., . - . ■.

search of a would havB been like nuomght silence, were
it not that the shrill voice of the pi-pi-yo
eveiy now and then resounded from a distant tree. I
was sitting, with a little Horace in my hand, on what
had once been the steps which formerly led up to the
now mouldering and dismantled building. The negro
and his little dog came down the hiU in haste, and I
was soon informed that a snake had been discovered ;
but it was a young one, called the Busa-master, a rare
and poisonous snake.

I instantly rose up, and laying hold of the eight-foot
lance, which was close by me, "Well then. Daddy,"
said I, " '.veil go and have a look at the snake." I was
bare foot, with an old hat, check shirt, and trowrers
Oil, and a pair of braces to keep them up. The negro
had his cutlass ; and as we ascended the hill, another
negro, armed with a cutlass, joined us, judging, from
our pace, that there was something to do. The little
dog came along with us ; and when we had got about
half a mile in the forest, the negro stopped, and pointed
to the fallen tree : all was still and silent. I told the
negroes not to stir from the place where they were, and
keep the little dog in, and that I would go in and
reconnoitre.
„ ^ ^ I advanced up to the place, slow and cau-

Flnds and . ^ r j "»>*

secures an tious. The snake was well conces ' a. but at

enormous i t j i • •

couiacanara last I made him out : it waa a Coulacanara

not poisonous, but laige enough to have

crushed any of us to death. On measuring bin, a 'ter-

wards, he was something more than fourteen feet long.

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AMERICA.

to be seen, for the
aa though oTercome
he thickest shade : all
oidnight silence, were
voice of the pi-pi-yo
>m a distant tree. I
in my hand, on \rhat
rmerly led up to the
building. The negro
hill in haste, and I
lad been discovered ;
> Busii-master, a rare

lold of the eight-foot
WeU then, Daddy,"
it the snake." I was
shirt, and trowrers
liem up. The negro
led the hill, another
3d us, judgiug, from
g to do. The little
m we had got about
stopped, and pointed
i silent. I told the
vhere they were, and
I would go in and

place, slow and cau-
ell conce; ' a, but at
t was a Coulacanara
sje enough to have
leasuring him a :ter-
a fourteen feet long.

THIRD JOURNEY.

173

This species of snake is very rare, and much thicker, :n
proportion to his length, than any other snake in the
forest. A Coulacanara of fourteen feet in length is as
thick as a common Boa of twenty-four. After skin-
ning this snake I could easily get my head into his
mouth, as the singular formation > if the javij admits of
wonderful pxtensiii-

A Dutch . 1 lend of mine, by name Brouwer, killed a
boa, twenty-two feet long, with a pair of stag's horns in
his mouth : he had swallowed the stag, but could not
get the homt down : so he had to wait in patience with
that uncomfortable mouthful till his stomach digested
the body, and then the horns would drop out. In this
plight the Dutchman found him as he was going in his
canoe up the river, and sent a ball through his head.

On ascertaining the size of the serpent which the
negro had just found, I retired slowly the way I came,
and promised four dollars to the negro who had shown
it to me, and one to the other v-ho had joined us.
Aware that the day was on the d icline, and that the
approach of night would be detrimental to the dissec-
tion, a thought struck me that I could ke him alive.
I imagined, if I could strike him with the lance behind
the head, and pin him to the ground, I might succeed
in capturing him. When I told this to the negroes,
they begged and entreated me to let them go for a gun
and bring more force, as they were sure the snake
would kill some of us

. I had been at > he siege of Troy for nine years, and it
would not do now to carry back to Greece, " nil decimo
nisi dedecus anno." I mean, I had been in search of a
large serpent for years, and . now having come up with
one, it did not become me to turn soft. So, taking a

^

■mkUm

iL kwUiuAM^Um

174

WANDERINQS W SOUTH AUERIOA.

It-

cutlass from one of the negroes, and then ranging both
the sable slaves behind me, I told them to follow
and that I would cut them down if they offered to fly.
I spiled as I said this, but they shook their heads in
silence, and seemed to have but a bad heart of it

When we got up t^) the place, the serpent had not
stirred, but I could see nothing of his head, and I
judged by the folds [of his body that it must be at the
farthest side of Kis den. A species of woodbine had
fonned a complete mantle over the branches of the
fallen tree, almost impervious to the rain or the rays of
the sun. Probably he had resorted to this sequestered
placi' for a leugth of time, as it boi j marks of an
ancient Rottlemeut

I now took my knife, determining to cut away the

woodbine, and break the twigs in the gentlest manner

_ ^ possible, till I could get a view of his head.

PrepaTMto >. ,

mppie with Ore negro stood guard close behind me with

the Sivako.

the ?<ince; and near hrm the other with a
cutlass. The cutlass which T had taken from the first
negro was on the ground dose by me in case of need.

After working in dead silence for a quarter of an
hour, with one knee all the time on the ground, I had
cleared away enough to see his head. It appeared
coming out betwixt the first and second coil of the
body, and was flat on the ground. This was the very
position I wished it to be in.

I rose in silence and retreated very slowly, making
a sign to the negroes to do the same. The dog was
sitting at a distance in mute observance. I cocld now
read in tlie face of the negroes that they considered
this as a very unpleasant afiair ; and they made another
attempt to pertaade me to let them go fbr a gun. I

[ AMERICA.

nd then ranging both
told them to follow
if they offered to fly.
shook their heads in
bad heart of it
, the serpent had not
; of his head, and I
hat it must be at the
iies of -woodbine had
the branches of the
tie rain or the rays of
id to this sequestered
it boi j marks of an

ling to cut away the
the gentlest manner
t a view of his head,
close behind me with
■m the other with a
taken from the first
me in case of need,
for a quarter of an
}n the ground, I had
head. It appeared
I second coil of the
This was the very

very slowly, making
same. The dog was
vance. I cocld now
hat they considered
d they made another
em go fbr a gun. I

THIRD JOURNBT.

176

smiled in a good-natured manner, and made a feint to
cut them down with the weapon I had in my hand.
This was all the answer I made to their request, and
they looked very uneasy.

It must be observed, we were now about twenty
yards from the snake's den. I now ranged the negroes
behind me, and told him who stood next to me, to lay
hold of the lance the moment I struck the snake, and
that the other must attend my movements. It now
only remained to take their cutlasses from them, for
I was sure, if I did not disarm them, they would be
tempted to strike the snake in time of danger, and thus
for ever spoil his ekin. On taking their cutlasses from
them, if I might judge from their physiognomy, they
seemed to consider it as a most intolerable act of tyranny
in me. Probably nothing kept them from bolting, but
the consolation that I was to be betwixt them and the
snake. Indeed, my own heart, in spite of all I could
do, beat quicker than usual ; and I felt those sensations
which one lias on board a merchant vessel in war time,
when the captain orders all hands on deck to prepare
for action, while a strange vessel ia coming down upon
us under suspicious colours.

We went slowly on in silence, without moving our
arms or heads, in order to prevent all alarm as much as
possible, lest the snake should glide off, or attack us in
seK-defence. I carried the lance perpendicularly before
me, with the point about a foot from the ground. The
snake had not moved ; and on getting up to him I
struck him with the lance on the near side, just behind
the neck, and pinned him to the ground. That moment
the negro next to me seized the lance, and held it firm
in its place, while I dashed head foremost into the den

176

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

to grapple with the snake, and to get hold of his tail
before he could do any mischief.

On pinning him to the ground with the lance, he
gave a tremendous loud liiss, and the little dog ron
away, howling as he went We had a sharp fray in
the den, the rotten sticks flying on all sides, and each
party struggling for superiority. I called out to the
second negro to throw himself upon me, as I found I
was nut heavy enough. He did so, and the additional
weight was of great service. I had now got firm hold
of his tail ; and after a violent struggle or two, he gave
in, finding himself overpowered. This was the moment
to secure him. So, while the first negro continued to
hold the lance firm to the ground, and the other was
helping me, I contrived to unloose my braces, and with
them tied up the snake's mouth.

The snake now finding himself in an unpleasant situa-
tion, tried to better himself, and set resolutely to work,
but we overpowered him. We contrived to make him
t^^'ist himself round the shaft of the lance, and then
prepared to convey him out of the forest. I stood at
hifl head, and held it firm under my arm, one negro
supported the belly, and the other the tail. In this
order we began to move slowly towards home, and
reache* 't after resting ten times; for the snake was
too heavy for us to support him without stopping to
recriit our strength. As we proceeded onwards with
him, he fought hard for fireedom, but it was all in vain.
The day was now too far spent to think of dissecting
him. !'■ 'I I killed him, a partial putrefaction would
have taken place before morning. I had brought with
me up into the forest a strong bag, large enough to con-
diin 7 animal that T should want to dissect. I

CO

an
•yi«
ha
be
fix
ba
m(
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na
thi

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mi
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thi
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pn
esc
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diss

Sual

the

6X8

lik(
lai'if
the
nat

i

[ AMERICA.

9 get hold of his tail

id with the lance, he
ad the little dog ran
) had a sharp Iray in
on all sides, and each
I called ottt to the
upon me, as I found I
BO, and the additional
lad now got firm hold
ruggle or two, he gave
This was the moment
st negro continued to
nd, and the other was

10 mj braces, and with

in an unpleasant situa-
set resolutely to work,
sontrired to make him
if the lance, and then
the forest. I stood at
;r my arm, one negro
her the tail. In this
y towards home, and
es ; for the snake was
n without stopping to
■ocseded onwards with

but it was all in vain.

to think of dissecting
iial putrefaction would
;. I had brought with
g, large enough to con-
i want to dissect. I

THIRD JOURNKT.

177

considered this the best mode of keeping live wild
animals when I was pressed for daylight ; for the bag
• yielding in every direction to their eflbrts, they would
have nothing solid or fixed to work on, and thus would
be prevented from making a hole through it I say
fixed, for after the mouth of the bag was closed, the
bag itself was not fastened or tied to anything, but
moved about wherever the animal inside caused it to
roll. After securing afresh the mouth of the coulaca-
nara, so that he could not open it, he was forced into
tiiis bag, and left to his fate till morning.

I cannot say he allowed me to have a quiet night.
My hammock was in the loft just above him, and the
floor betwixt us half gone to decay, so that in parts of
it no boards intervened betwixt his lodging-room and
mine. He was very restless and fretful; and had
Medusa been my wife, there could not have been more
continued and disagreeable hissing in the bed-chamber
that night At day-break, I sent to borrow ten of the
negroes who were cutting wood at a distance ; I could
have done with half that number, but judged it most
prudent to have a good force, in case he should try to
escape from the house when we opened the bag. How-
ever, nothing serious occurred.

Kills and ^® Untied the mouth of the bag, kept
sS*'* *"** ^^ down by main force, and then I cut hia
throat. He bled like an ox. By six o'clock
the same evening, he was completely dissected. On
examining his teeth, I observed that they were all bent
like tenter-hooks, pointing d'ira his throat, and not so
large or strong as I expected to have found them ; but
they are exactly suited to what they are intended by
nature to peiform. The snake does not masticate his

jr

WAXraniNOB IN BO0TH AHEntOA.

i^mv-

i'lod, and thus tho only service his toeth have to per-
form is to seiz3 his prey, and hold it till he swallows it
whole.

In general, the skins of snakes are sent to musoamB
without the head J for when the Indians and negroes
kill a snake, they seldom fail to cut off the head, and
then they run no risk from its teeth. When the skin
is stuffed in the museum, a wooden head is suhstituted,
armed with tectiv which are large enough to suit a
tiger's jaw ; and this tends to mislead the spectator,
and give him erroneous ideas.

During this fray with the serpent, the old negro,
Daddy Quasi li, was in George- town procuring provi-
sions, and Just returned in time to help to take the
skin off. Ho had spent best part of his hfe in the
forest with his old master, Mr. Ed monstone, and
amused me much in recounting their muny adventures
amongst the wild beasts. The Daddy had a particular
horror of snakes, and frankly declared he could never
have faced the one In question.

The week following, his courage was put
another to the test, and he made good his words. It
was a curious conflict, and took place near
the spot where I had captured the large snake. In the
morning I had been following a new species of paroquet,
and the day being rainy, I had taken an umbrella to
kiep the gun dry, and had left it under a tree ; in the
afternoon I took Daddy Quashi with me to look for it.
Whilst he was searching about, curiosity took mu
towards the place of the late scene of action. There
was a path where timber had formerly been dragged
along. Here I observed a young coulaccnara, ten feet
long, slowly moving onwards ; I saw he was not thick

on
it.
of

ns

his

me

III

fee

ma

his

bio

thr

cou

rou

prij

I

uml

occt

saw

and

his

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sigh

ston

\^

snal

that

as t:

In a

shoB

vulti

m'iiim

i

: AUETttOA.

lis toeth have to per-
i it till lie awaliowB it

are sent to musooms
Indiana and negroes
cut off the head, and
leth. When the skin
in head is substituted,
ge enough to suit a
nislead the spectator,

■pent, the old negro,
3wn procuring provi-
to help to take the
rt of his life in the
ir. Edmonstone, and
heir muiiy adventures
>add}' had a particular
blared he could never

his courage was put
le good his words. It

and took place near
i large snake. In the
w species of paroquet,
taken an umbrella to

under a tree ; in the
ith me to look for it.
i, curiosity took mu
me of action. There
»rmerly been dragged

coulacpnara, ten feet
saw he was not thick

^i8ji!|igWi'.W^S

Tiimn JouriN'Er,

iro

enough to break my arm, in cnao he got twisted round
it There was not a moment to be lost. I laid liold
of hi.H tail with the left hand, one knee being on the
ground ; with the right I took off my hat, and hold it
as you would hold a shield for dofenco.

The snake instantly turned, and came on at mo, with
his head about a ynrd from tho ground, as if to ask
me, what busin. ;s 1 u\ to take liberties with his tail.
I let him come, lii nd opon-inoiithod, within two

feet of my face, an'i with all tho force I won

master of, I drove n. , «liiolded by my hat, full in
his jaws. Ho was stunned and confounded by tho
blow, and ore he could recover himself, I had seized his
throat with both hands, in such a position that he
could not bite me ; I then allowed him to coil himself
round my body, and marched off with him as my lawful
prize. Ho pressed me hard, but not alarmingly so.

In the mean time, Daddy Quashi, having found the
umbrella, and having heard the noise which the fray
occasioned, was coming cautiously up. As soon as he
saw me, and in what company I was, he turned about
and ran off home, I after him, and shouting, to increase
his fear. On scolding him for his cowardice, the old
rogue bogged that I would forgive him, for that the
sight of the snake had positively turned him sick at
stomach.

When I had done with the carcass of the large
snake, it was conveyed in^o the forest, as I expected
that it would attract the king of the vultures, as soon
as time should have rendered it sufficiently savoury.
In a few days it sent forth that odour which a carcass
should send forth, and about twenty of the common
vultures came and perched on the neighbouring trees ;

s2

/

180

WANDFJMNaS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

the king of the vnlturos came too ; and I observed that
none of tho common onea seemed inclined to begin
breakfast till bis majesty had fin!fl?i"d. When he had
consumed as much snake as nature i,- ^^ t)od Kx- would
do him good, ho retired to the top of .- i , ,(■. motii-iriie ;
and then all tho common vultures fell U), ami nukle a
hearty meal.

The King of Tho head and neck of the king of the
th« Vulture., vultures are bare of feathers j but the beau-
tiful appearance they oxh'l'it fades in death. The
throat and the bnck of t\n neck are of a fine lemon
colour; both sides of the i^eck, from the ears down-
wards, of a rich scarlet; behini !ho corrugated part
there is a white spot. The crown of t'l - head is scarlet ;
betwixt the lower mandible and thv-. jvi, and close by
the ear, there is a part whi';h has a tae silvery blue
appearance ; tho corrugated part is of a dirty light
brown; behind it, and just above the white spot, a
portion of the skin is blue, and the rest scarlet ; the
skin which juts out behind the neck, and appears like
an oblong caruncle, is blue in part, and part orange.

The bill is orange and black, the carundM
on his forehead orange, and the oere orange ;
the orbits scarlet, and the irides white. Below the
bare part of the neck there is a cinereous ruflf. The
bag qf the stomach, which is only seen when distended
with food, is of a most delicate white, intersected with
blue veins, which appear on it just like the blue veins

on the arm of a fair-complexioned person. The tail

and long wing feathers are black, the belly white, and

the rest of the body a fine satin colour.

I cannot be persuaded that the vultures ever feed

upon live animals, not even upon lizards, rats, mice, or

lUbUl.

I

ni AHEnicA.

; and I observed that
aed inclined to begin
iifl?i'>d. When he had
tei.i'i , nedhiji! would
p ofw i'.5;.h motii-iriiei
res fell Ut, ati'l moJe a

ik of the king of the
Qathers ; but the beau-
fades in death. The
k are of a fine lemon
, from the ears down-
i the corrugated part
1 of t'i V head is scarlet ;
1 thv. JV'), and close by
has a tiuo silvery blue
,rt is of a dirty light
ovo the white spot, a
i the rest scarlet; the

neck, and appears like
irt, and part orange,
ind black, the carundM
;e, and the oere orange ;
des white. Below the

a cinereous ruff. The
ly seen when distended
white, intersected with
just like the blue veins
med person. The tail
k, the belly white, and
colour.

the vultures e\er feed
on lizards, rats, mice, or

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.

Canadian Institute for Historical MIcroreproductlons / Instltut Canadian de microreproductlons historiques

wmM

ilM'gai8tet«tfea«iaiKr.-feJ^<iM,!r«ffMrrB^^

THIRD JOUBNET.

181

froga ; I have watched them for hours together, but
never could see them touch any living animals, though
innumerable lizards, frogs, and small birds swarmed all
around them. I have killed lizards and frogs, and put
them in a proper place for observation j as soon as thej^
began to stink, the aura vulture invariably came and
took them off. I have fre^iuently observed, that thet
day after the planter had burnt the trash in a cane-field,
the aura vulture was sure to be there, feeding on the
snakes, lizards, and frogs which had suffered in the
conflagration. I often saw a large bird (very much
like the common gregarious vulture at a distance) catch
and devour lizards ; after shooting one, it turned out
to be not a vulture, but a hawk, with a tail squarer and
shorter than hawks have in general. The valtures,
like the goatsucker and woodpecker, seem to be in dis-
grace with man. They are generally termed a voracious,
stinking, cruel, and ignoble tribe. Under these im-
pressions, the fowler discharges his gun at them, and
probably thinks he has done well in ridding the earth
of such vermin.

Some governments impose a fine on him who kills a
vulture. This is a salutary law, and it were to bo
wished that other governments would follow so good
an example. I would fain here say a word or two in
favour of this valuable scavenger.

Kind Providence has conferred a blessing on hofc
countries in giving them the vulture ; he has ordered
it to consume that which, if left to dissolve in putre-
faction, would infect the ^air and produce a pestilence.
When fiill of food, the vulture certainly appears an
indolent bird ; he will atand for hours together on the
branch of a tree, or on the top of a bouse, vnth his

i^

1

■fete

182

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMEniCA.

•wings drooping, and, after rain, with them spread and
elevated to catch the rays of the sun. It has been
remarked by naturalists, that the flight of this bird is
laborious. I have paid attention to the vulture in
Andalusia, and to those in 'Guiana, Brazil, and the
West Indies, and conclude that they are birds of long,
even, and lofty flight. Indeed, whoever has observed
the aura vulture, will be satisfied that his flight is
wonderfully majestic, and of long continuance.

This bird is above five feet from wing to wing
extended. You will see it soaring aloft in the aerial
expanse on pinions which never flutter, and which at
the same time carry him through the fields of ether
with a rapidity equal to that of the golden eagle. In
Peramaribo the laws protect the vulture, and the
Spaniards of Angustura never think of molesting him.
In 1808, I saw the vultures in that city as tame as
domestic fowls ; a person who had never seen a vulture
would have taken them for turkeys. They were very
useful to the Spaniards ; had it not been for them, the
refuse of the slaughter-houses in Angustiu'a would iave
caused an intolerable nuisance.

otherspecies '^^^ common black, short, square-taixed
of vuitu' , vulture is gregarious ; but the aura vultm-e
is not so : for, though you may see fifteen or twenty of
them feeding on the dead vermin in a cane-field, after
the trash has been set fire to, still, if you have paid
attention to their arrival, you will have observed that
they came singly and retired singly ; and thus their
being all together in the same field was merely acci-
dental, and caused by each one smelling the efliuvia as
he was soaring through the sky to look out for food.
I have watched twenty come into a Cane-field ; they

an
he

ot;

is

or
wi
hi
ci
tr
th

St

tl

a

il

f

nc

th

fc
a1
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1<

P

AMEUICA.

ith them spread and
6 sun. It has been
flight of this bird is
a to the vulture in
lua, Brazil, and the
ey are birds of long,
hoever has observed
id that his flight is
continuance,
from wing to wing
g aloft in the aerial
flutter, and which at
1 the fields of ether
he golden eagle. In
le vulture, and the
ik of molesting him.
that city as tame as
[ never seen a vulture
lys. They were very
ot been for them, the
Lngustiuti would iave

, short, square-taixed
but the aura vultm-e
B fifteen or twenty of
L in a cane-lield, after
ill, if you have paid
I have observed that
gly ; and thus their
leld was merely acoi-
lelling the efiiuvia as
to look out for food.
} a Cane-field; they

THinO JOUHNET.

188

arrived one by one, and from different parts of the
heavens. Hence we may conclude, that though the
other species of vulture are gregarious, the aura vulture
is not.

If you dissect a vulture that has just been feeding
on carrion, you must expect that your olfectory nerves
will be somewhat oifended Avith the rank effluvia from
his craw ; just as they would be were you to dissect a
citizen after the Lord Mayor's dinner. K, on the con-
trary, the vulture be empty at thfj time you commence
the operation, there will be no offensive smell, but a
strong scent of musk.

I had long wished to examine the native haunts of
the cayman ; but as the river Demerara did not afford
a specimen of the large kind, I was obliged to go to
the river Essequibo to look for one.

I Rot the canoe ready, and went down

Sailninaca- . „ , i ■ j. •

noe down to m it to George-town; where, having put in

the Essequibo. , . , a j-i j-a- a.

the necessary articles for the expedition, not
forgetting a couple of large shark-hooks, with chains
attached to them, and a coil of strong new rope, I
hoisted a little sail, which I had got made on purpose,
and at six o'clock in the morning shaped our course for
the river Essequibo. I had put a pair of shoes on to
prevent the tar at the bottom of the canoe from sticking
to my feet. The sun was flaming hot, and from eleven
o'clock till two beat perpendicularly upon the top of
my feet, betwixt the shoes and the trowsers. Not feel-
ing it disagreeable, or being in the least aware of painful
consequences, as I had been barefoot for months, I neg-
lected to put on a pair of short stockings which I had
with me. I did not reflect, that sitting still in one
place with your feet exposed to the sun was very

ii

184

WANDERINOS IK SOUTH AMERICA.

different from being exposed to the sim while in
motion.

Buffers much We w8nt ashoTO in the Essequibo, about
&tr^^ fx- three o'clock in the afternoon, to choose a
.BBsive heat. ^^^ f^^ ^j^^ jjight's residence, to collect
fire-wood, and to set the fish-hooks. It was then that
I first began to find my legs very painful : they soon
became much inflamed, and red, and blistered ; and it
required considerable caution not to burst the blisters,
otherwise sores would have ensued. I immediately got
into the hammock, and there passed a painfiil and
sleepless night, and for two days after I was disabled
from walking.
About midnight, as I was lying awake, and in great
pain, I heard the Indian say, " Massa, maesa,

Viattedinthe ^ ' , . „„.-,.. ■■ ,, i- i

night by aJa- you no hear tiger V I listened attentively,
gnar ger. ^^ heard the softly-sounding tread of his
feet as he approached us. The moon had gone down ;
but every now and then we could get a glance of him
by the l%ht of our fire : he was the jaguar, for I could
see the spots on his body. Had I wished to have fired
at him, I was not able to take a sure aim, for I vras in
such pain that I could not turn myself in my hammock.
The Indian would have fired, but I would not allow
him to do so, as I wanted to see a little more of our
new visitor ; for it is not every day or night that the
traveller is favoured with an undisturbed sight of the
jaguar in his own forests.

Whenever the fire got low, the jaguar came a little
nearer, and when the Indian renewed it, he retired
abruptly : sometimes he would come within twenty
yards, and then we had a view of him, sitting on hia
hind legs like a dog ; sometimes he moved slowly to

a

h

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n

B(
O

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a

F
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V

tl

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o
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al
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ii

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AMERICA.

> the sun -while in

the Essequibo, about
^temoon, to choose a
residence, to collect
cs. It was then that
f painful : they soon
md blistered ; and it

to burst the blisters,
1. I immediately got
tassed a painM and

after I was disabled

; awake, and in great
n say, " Massa, massa,
[ listened attentively,
funding tread of his
lOon had gone down ;
[ get a glance of him
he jaguar, for I could
[ wished to have fired
sure aim, for I was in
jTself in my hammock,
it I would not allow
) a little more of o\ur
lay or night that the
[isturbed sight of the

le jaguar came a little
mewed it, he retired,
come within twenty
>f him, sitting on hia
I he moved slowly to

THIRD JOCBNRY.

185

and fro, and at other times we could hear him mend
his pace, as if impatient. At lost the Indian, not
relishing the idea of having such company in the
neighbourhood, could contain himself no longer, and
set up a most tremendous yell. The jaguar bounded
off like a race-horse, and returned no more ; it appeared,
by the print of his feet the next morning, that he was
a fuU-grown jaguar.

In two days after this, we got to the first

Beaches the .„.,;; ., rm

FaUs of the falls in the Essequibo. There was a superb

Esaequibo. . . « , ., ,, • -r

barner of rocks quite across the nver. In
the rainy season these rocks are for the most part under
water ; but it being now dry weather, we had a fine
view of them, while the water from the river above
them rushed through the different openings in nugestic
grandeur. Here, on a little hill, jutting out into the
river, stands the house of Mrs. Peterson, the last house
of people of colour up this river ; I hired a negro from
her, and a coloured man, who pretended that they knew
the haunts of the cayman, and understood everything
about taking him. We were a day in passing these
falls and rapids, celebrated for the pacou, the richest
and most delicious fish in Guiana. The coloured man
was now in his element ; he stood in the head of the
canoe, and with his bow and arrow shot the pacou as
they were swimming in the stream. The arrow had
scarcely left the bow before he had plunged headlong
into the river, and seized the fish as it was struggling
with it. He dived and swam like an otter, and rarely
missed the fish he aimed at

Did my pen, gentle reader, possess descriptive
powers, I would here give thee an idea of the enchantr
ing scenery of the Essequibo ; but that not being the

186

WANDEBINGS l>* SOUTH AMEniCA.

case, thou must be contented with a moderate and
well-intended attempt.

Nothing could be more lovely than the
Scenery, app^jiyance of the forest on each side of this
noble river Hills rose on hills in lino gradation, all
covered with trees of gigantic height and sizo. Here
their leaves were of a lively purple, and there of the
deepest green. Sometimes the CawMJara extended its
scarlet blossoms fiom branch to branch, and gave the
tree the appcaranc-i as though it liad been hung with
garlands.

This delightful scenery of the Essequibo made the
soul overflow with joy, and caused you to rove in fancy
through fairy-land ; till, on turning an angle of the
river, you were recalled to more sober reflections on
seeing the once grand and towering mora, now dead
and ragged in its topmost branches, while its aged
trunk, undermined by the rushing torrent, hung as
though in sorrow over the river, which, ere long, would
receive it, and sweep it away for ever.

During the day, the trade-wind blew a gentle and
refreshing breeze, which died away as the night set in,
and then the river was as smooth as glass.

The moon was within three days of being full, so
that we did not regret the loss of the sun, which set
in all its splendour. Scarce had he sunk behind the
western hills, when the goatsuckers sent forth their
soft and plaintive cries; some often repeating, "Who
are you— who, who, who are you 1" and others, " Willy,
Willy, Willy come go."

The Indian and Daddy Quashl often shook their
head at this, and said they were bringing talk from
Yabahou, who is the evil spirit of the Essequibo. It

wa
till
th
an
an

pn

to!
no
ha
thi
Tk
an
of
H(
wi
at
su
tu
ex
m<

wl
po
wa
sic
ba
ha
of

pi,
a I

IMEHIOA.

THIRD JOUBNET.

isr

,h a moderate and

)re lovely than the
on each side of this
n lino gradation, all
[ht and si/.o. Here
ie, and there of the
iracara extended its
»ranch, and gave the
liad been hung with

Esaequibo made the
you to rove in fancy
ng an angle of the
sober reflections on
ing mora, now dead
!hes, while its aged
ng torrent, hung as
liich, ere long, would
ver.

i blew a gentle and
y as the night set in,
as glass.

ays of being full, so
if the sun, which set
he sunk behind the
lers sent forth their
rten repeating, " Who
"and others, "Willy,

hi often shook their
e bringing talk from
}f the Esset^uibo. It

was delightful to sit on the branch of a fallen tree, near
the water's edge, and listen to these harmless binla as
they repeated their evening song ; and watch the owls
and vampires as they every now and then passed up
and down the river.

The Cam- ^^'® next day, about noon, as we were
panero. proceeding onwards, we hoard the Campanero
tolling in the depth of the f.Test. Though I should
not then have stopped to dissect even a rare bird,
having a greater object in view, still I could not resist
the opportunity Oflered of acquiring the campanero.
The place where he was tolling was low and swampy,
and my legs not having quite recovered from the effects
of the sun, I sent the Indian to shoot the campanero.
He got up to the tree, which he described as very high,
with a naked top, and situated in a swamp. He fired
at the bird, but either missed it, or did not wound it
sufl&ciently to bring it down. This was the only oppor-
tunity I had of getting a campanero during tliis
expedition. We had never heard one toll before this
morning, and never heard one after.

About an hour before sunset, we reached the place
which |the two men who had joined us at the Falls
pointed out as a proper one to find a cayman. There
was a large creek close by, and a sand-bank gently
sloping to the water. Just within the forest on this
bank, we cleared a place of b'^ishwood, suspended the
hammocks from the trees, au i ;!)en picked up enough
of decayed wood for fuel.

The Indian found a large land-tortoise, and this, with
plenty of fresh fish which we had in the canoe, afforded
a supper not to be despised.

Tlq i'gera had kept up a continual roaring every

I

I

188

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

(■

night since we had entered the Esscquibo. The sound
was awfully fine. Sometimes it was in the immediate
Bonrii. of neighbourhood; at other times it was far
the Tigers. ^jf^ and ochoed amongst the hills like dis-
tant thunder.

It may, perhaps, not bo amiss to observe here, that
when the word Tiger is used, it does not mean the
Bengal tiger. It means the Jagiiar, whose skin is
beautifully spotted, and not striped like that of the
tiger in the East. It is, in fact, the tiger of the new
world, and receiving the name of tiger from the dia-
ooverers of South America, it has kept it ever since.
It is a cruel, strong, and dangerous beast, but not bo
courageous as the Bengal tiger.

We now baited a shark-hook with a large fish, and
put it upon ;i board about a yard long, and one foot
broad, which we had brought on purpose. This board
was carried out in the canoe, about forty yards into the
river. By means of a string, long enough to reach the
bottom of the river, and at the end of which string was
fastened a stone, the board was kept, as it were, at
anchor. One end of the new rope I had bought in
town was reeved through the chain of the shark-hook,
and the other end fastened to a tree on the sand-bank.
It was now an hour after sunset The sky waa
cloudless, and the moon shone beautifully bright.
There was not a breath of wind in the heavens, and
the river seemed like a large plain of quicksilver.
Every now and then a huge fish would strike and
plunge in the water ; then the owls and goatsuckers
would continue their lamentations, and the sound of
these was lost in the prowling tiger's growL Then all
was still again and silent as midnight.

to

1

Ca

It

BV

m
tl
ni
tl

h

tl

81
V

a

81

Bl

h

V

tl

i
1
f

n

a
]
1

G
I

MiRMIWMMNWM

mmt-^

AMERICA,

icquibo. The sound
roa in the immediate
or times it was far
t the hills like die*

0 observe here, that
does not mean the

'}mr, whose skin is
ed like that of the
the tiger of the new
' tiger from the dis-
3 kept it ever since,
us beast, but not bo

rith a large fish, and

1 long, and one foot
)urpose. This board
t forty yards into the
; enough to reach the
1 of which string was

kept, as it were, at
pe I had bought in
lin of the shark-hook,
oe on the sand-bank,
nset The sky was
I beautifully bright.

in the heavens, and
plain of quicksilver,
sh would strike and
owls and goatsuckers
ns, and the sound of
;er's growL Then all
ight.

THIRD JOURNET.

180

The cayraen wore now upon the stir, and at in-
tervals their noise could bo di^itinguished amid that of
Noiieofthe ^^^ j^gujir, the owls, the goatsuckers, and
CayniBii. frogs. It was a singular and awful sound.
It was like a suppressed sigh, burating forth all of a
sudden, and so loud that you might hear it above a
mile off. First one emitted this horrible nniso, and
then another answered ; and on looking at the counte-
nances of the people round me, I could plainly see that
they expected to have a cayman that night.

We were at supper, when the Indian, who seemed to
have had one eye on the turtle-pot and the other on
the bait in the river, said he saw the cayman coming.

Upon looking towards the place, there appeared
something on the water like a black log of wood. It
was so unlike anything alive, that I doubted if it were
a cayman; but the Indian smiled, and said, he was
sure it was one, for he remembered seeing a cayman,
some years ago, when he was in the Essequibo.

At last it gradually approached the bait, and the
board began to move. The moon shone so bright, that
we could distinctly see him open his huge jaws, and
take in the bait. We pulled the rope. He imme-
diately let drop the bait ; and then we saw his black
head retreating from the board, to the distance of a
few yards ; and there it remained quite motionless.

He did not seem inclined to advance again ; and so
we finished our supper. In about an hour's time he
again put himself in motion, and took hold of the bait.
But, probably suspecting that he had to deal with
knaves and cheats, he held it in his mouth, but did not
swallow it. We pulled the rope again, but with no
better success than the first time.

\

190

WAKDERlXflS IN BODTH AMKHICA.

Hu rotrentod as usual, ami cniiin back again in about
nn hour. \Vu paid him ovcfry nttontion till tiinu'
o'clock in tho morning; when, worn out with diMappoiut-
ment, wo wont to tho hammocks, turned in, and fell

When day broke, wo found that ho had contrived to
got tlio l)ait from tho hook, though wo had tied it on
with string. Wo had now no more hopes of taking a
cayman till tho return of night. Tlio Indian took off
into tho woods, and brought back a noble supply of
game. Tho rest of us wont into tho canoe, and pro-
ceeded up tho river to shoot fish. Wo got even more
than wo could use.

Aa wo approached the shallows, wo could see the
largo sting-rays moving at tho bottom. The coloured
man never failed to hit them with his arrow. The
Aveathor was delightful. There was scarcely a cloud to
intercept tho sun's rays.

I saw Hovornl scarlet aras, anihingas, and
ducks, but could not got a shot at them.
Tho parrots crossed the river in innumerable quantities,
almost flying in pairs. Here, too, I saw the Sun-bird,
called Tirana by the Spaniards in the Oroonoquo, and
shot cue of them. Tho black and white scarlot-lioaded
finch was very common here. I could never see this
bird in the Domerara, nor hear of its being there.

Wo at last came to a large sand-bank, probably two
miles in circumference. As we approached it we coiild
see two or three hundred fresh-water turtle on the edge
of the bank. Ere we could get near enough to let fly
an arrow at them, they had all sunk into the river, and
appeared no more.

Oli'dii.

AMRniCA.

l»ftcl< again in about
nttuntion till tlircc
out with diwappoiut-
, turnud in, and full

ho had contrived to
I wo had tied it on
ro hopes of taking a

llu) Indian took off
z a, noble supply of
the canoe, and pro-

We got even move

s, we could see the
itoni. The coloured
th his arrow. The
« scarcely a cloud to

aras, anihingas, and
^ot a shot at them,
lumerablo quantities,
I saw the Sun-bird,
the Oroonoquo, and
white scarlet-lieaded
:ouId never see this
its being there,
[-bank, probably two
iroached it we could
er turtle on the edge
ear enough to let fly
k into the river, and

THTrtD JOUHNRT.

191

nuntii.

Wo went on thn sand-buiik to look for tlicir nests,
tut tliis was tlie breeding tteiiHoii. Th)^ euloured niim
showed UM how to lind thoni. Wherever a
portion of the sand seemod smoother than
the rest, there was sure to be a turtle's iieHt. On dig-
ging down witli our IiaiidM, about nine inches iloeji, we
found from twenty to tliirty white eggs ; in loss than
an hour we got abovo two hundred. Tlioso which had
a little black spot or two' on the shell wo ute the same
day, as it was a sign that they wore not fresh, and of
course would not keep : those which had no speck
wore put into dry sand, and wore good some weeks
after.

At midnight, two of our people wont to this sand-
bank, while the rest stayed to watch th ■ t ayman. The
turtle had advanced on to tho sand to lay their eggs,
and the men got betwixt thom and tho water ; they
brought off half a dozen very fine and well-fed turtle.
The egg-shell of tho froah-water turtle is not hard, like
that of tho land-tortoise, but appears like white parch-
ment, and gives way to the pressure of the fingers ; but
it is very tough, and does not break. On this sand-
bank, close to the forest, we found several guana's
nests; but tbey had never more than foui-teon eggs
a-piece. Thus passed the day, in exercise and know-
lodge, till the sun's declining orb reminded us it was
time to return to the place from wliouce we had
set out.

The second night's attempt upon the cayman was a
repetition of the first, quite unsuccessful. We went a
fishing the day after, had excellent sport, and returned
to experience a third night's disappointment. On the
fourth evening, about four o'clock, we began to erect a

' Kt

192

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

stage amongst the trees, close to the water's edge.
From this we intended to shoot an arrow into the
cayman : at the end of this arrow was to he attached a
string, which would he tied to the rope, and as soon as
the cayman was struck, we were to have the canoe
ready, and pursue him in the river.

While we were busy in preparing the stage, a tiger
began to roa?. We judged by the sound that he was
not above a quarter of a mile from us, and that he was
close to the side of the river. Unfortunately, the
Indian said it was not a jaguar that was roaring, but a
couguor. The couguar is of a pale, brownish

Cougnar. ^^ ^^^^^.^ ^^ ^^^ ^ j^^gg J^g ^^ jagUBT.

As there was nothing particular in this animal, I
thought it better to attend to the apparatus for catch-
ing the cayman than to go in quest of the cougnar.
The people, however, went in the canoe to the place
where the couguar was roaring. On arriving near the
spot, they saw it was not a couguar, but an immense
jaguar, standing on the trunk of an aged mora-tree,
which bended over the river ; he growled and showed
his teeth as they approached ; the coloured man fired
at him with a ball, but probably missed him, and the
tiger instantly descended, and took off into the woods.
I went to the place before dark, and we searched the
forest for about half a mile in the direction he had
fled : but we could see no traces of him, or any marks
of blood, so I concluded that fear had prevented the
man from taking steady aim.

We spent best part of the fourth night in trying for
the cayman, but all to no purpose. I was now con-
vinced that something was materially wrong. We ought
to have been successful, considering our vigilance and

^'itiv ..I

•MwMaiMiiMNMI

UTTmiiMTfl

attc
It A
cole

Di

the
coloi

tha

had

dol

Mr

ask

in

ani

o'cl

wh

F

cree
Iiuli
tleii

ani
cai
hai

aa(

In(
we
ret
we
po
ani
am

MliiiijtBlaB.iiM»«aMiian.iiB)mwHlt«>a»fjA^

AMERICA.

I the water's edge,
an arrow into the
Koa to be attached a
rope, and as soon as
to have the canoe

ig the stage, a tiger
e sound that he was
us, and that he was

Unfortunately, the
it was roaring, but a
i of a pale, brownish
large as the jaguar.
■ in this animal, I

apparatus for catch-
iest of the cougoar.

canoe to the place
)n arriving near the
lar, but an ixjimensb
f an aged mora^tree,
growled and showed
I coloured man fired
inissed him, and the
c off into the woods,
and we searched the
he direction he had
f him, or any marks
r had prevented the

;h night in trying for
se. I was now con-
Lly wrong. We ought
Jig our vigilance and

THIRD JOURNBT.

193

attention, and that we had repeatedly seen the cayman.

It was useless to tarry here any longer ; moreover, the

coloured man began to take airs, and fancied that I coiild

not do without him. I never admit of this

Discharges . t,. i -r ■,

the limn of m any expedition where I am commander ;
and so I convinced the man, to his sorrow,
that I could do without him ; for I paid him what I
had agreed to give him, which amounted to eight
dollars, and ordered him' back in his own curial to
Mrs. Pelnrson's, on the hill at the first falls. I then
asked the negro if there were any Indian settlements
in the neighbourhood ; he said he knew of one, a day
and a half off. We went in quest of it, and about one
o'clock the next day the negro showed us the creek
where it was.

The entrance was so concealed by thick bushes, that
Reaches a ^ Stranger would have passed it without
imiiali 8e^ knowing it to be a creek. In going up it we
tiement. found it dark, winding, and intricate beyond
any creek that I had ever seen before. When Orpheus
came back with his young wife from Styx, his path must
have been similar to this ; for Ovid says it was

"Arduus, obliquus, caligine densus opaca ;,"

and this creek was exactly so.

When we had got about two-thirds up it, we met the
Indians going a-fishing. I saw, by the way their things
were packed in the curial, that they did not intend to
return for some days. However, on telling them what,
we wanted, and by promising handsome presents of
powder, shot, and hooks, they dropped their e:;pedition,
and invited us up to the settlement they had just left,
and where we laid in a provision of cassava.

o

1;

ir--iiW'ffiBii

n

104

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

They gave us for dinner boiled ant-bear and red

monkey; two dishea unknown even at Beau-

maiandinner. ^^^^.^^ .^ ^^^^^ ^^ ^^ ^ London city feast.

The monkey was very good indeed, but the ant-bear
liad been kept beyond its time — it stunk as our venison
does in England; and so, after tasting it, I preferred
dining entirely on monkey. After resting here, we went
back to the river. ITie Indians, three in number, ac-
companied us in their own curial, and, on entoring the
river, pointed to a place, a little way above, well calcu-
lated to harbour a cayman. The water was deep and
still, and flanked by an immense sand-bank ; there was
also a little shallow creek close by.

On this sand-bank, near the forest, the people made
a shelter for the night. My own was already made ; for
I always take with me a painted sheet, about twelve
feet by ten. This, thrown over a pole, supported be-
twixt two trees, makes you a capital roof with very
little trouble.

"We showed one of the Indians the shark-hook. He
shook his head, and laughed at it, and said it would not
do. When he was a boy, he had seen his father catch
the caymen, and on the morrow he would make some-
thing that would answer.

In the mean time, we set the shark-hook ; but it
availed us nought : a cayman came and took it, but
would not swallow it. Seeing it was useless to attend
the shark-hook any longer, we left it for the night, and
returned to our hammocks.

Ere I fell asleep, a reflection or two broke in upon
me. I considered that, as far as the judgment of civi-
lized man went, everything had been procured and done
to ensure success. We had hooks, and lines, and baits

an(
se(
ou
pil
po
of
m(
an
pi(
ou

frc
to
an
ah

yo

to
wl
bi
to
fo
dc
v«

hi
v«
w

fl]
tl

ce

fo
in

AMERICA.

ed ant-bear and red
iknown even at Beau-

a London city feast,
sed, but the ant-bear

stunk OS our venison
asting it, I preferred

resting here, we went
three in number, ac-
, and, on entering the
vay above, well calcu-

water was deep and
sand-bank ; there was
r.

rest, the people made
voB ali"eady made ; for
1 sheet, about twelve
a pole, supported be-
ipital roof with very

the shark-hook. He
, and said it would not
. seen his father catch
he would make some-

e shark-hook; but it
ame and took it, but
was useless to attend
't it for the night, and

or two broke in upon
the judgment of civi-
«on procured and done
s, and lines, and baits

rr t-i'm"' irlimliTfMrr'ii'-li'Tfwmi ■

THUJD JOURNEY.

105

and patience; we had spent nights in watching, had
seen the cayman come and take the bait, and, after
our expectations had been wound up to the highest
pitch, all ended in disappointment. Probablj this
poor wild man of the woods would succeed by means
of a very simple process, and thus prove to his
more civilized brother that, notwithstanding books
and schools, there is a vast deal of knowledge to be
picked up at every step, wliichever way we turn
ourselves.

In the morning, as usual, we found the bait gone
from the shark-hook. The Indians went into the forest
to hunt, and we took the canoe to shoot fish and get
another supply of turtles' eggs, which we found in great
abundance on this large sand-bank.

"We went to the little shallow creek, and shot some
young caymen, about two feet long. It was astonishing
to see what spite and rage these little things showed
when the arrows struck them ; they turned round and
bit it, and snapped at us when we went into the water
to take them out. Daddy Quashi boiled one of them
for his dinner, and found it very sweet and tender. I
do not see why it should not be as good as frog or
veal.

The day was now declining apace, and the Indian
had made his instrument to take the cayman. It was
very simple. There were four pieces of tough hai-d
wood, a foot long, and about as thick as your little
linger, and barbed at both ends : they were tied round
the end of the rope in such a manner that, if you con-
ceive the rope to be an arrow, these four sticks would
form the arrow's head; so that one end of the four
united sticks answered to the point of the arrow-head,

o2

I

rm

196

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

while the other end of the sticks expanded at equal
distances round the rope, thus —

rry-T n^^i-^n'rrr-rzrxrM

Now, it is evident that if the cayman swallowed this
(the other end of the rope, which was thirty yards long,
being fastened to a tree), the more he pulled, the faster
the barbs would stick into his stomach. This wooden
hook, if you may so call it, was well baited with the
flesh of the acouri, and the entrails were twisted round
the rope for about a foot above it.

Nearly a mile from where we had our hammocks the
sand-bank was steep and abrupt, and the river very
still and deep ; there the Indian pricked a stick into
the sand. It was two feet long, and on its extremity
was fixed the machine ; it himg suspended about a foot
from the water, and the end of the rope was made &st
to a stake driven well into the sand.

The Indian then took the empty shell of a land-
tcrtoise, and gave it some heavy blows with an axe. I
asked why he did that. He said it was to let the

caj
th(

no
thi
foi
ani
Th
to
rei

s

hoc
Caj

mc
m(
mi
inl

thi
to
"1
wt
In
tei

WJ

dr

hi

I]

it

th

wi

f

AMERICA.

8 expanded at equal

yman swallowed this
eaa thirty yards long,
he pulled, the faster
mach. This wooden
well baited with the
s were twisted round

id our hammocks the
, and the river very
pricked a stick into
md on its extremity
ispended about a foot
le rope was made &st
id.

pty shell of a land-
ilows with an axe. I
id it was to let the

THIRD JOURNEY.

197

cayman hear that something was going on. In fact,
the Indian meant it as the cayman's dinner-bell.

Having done this, wo went back to the hammocks,
not intending to visit it again till morning. During
the night, the jaguara roared and grumbled in the
forest, as though the world was going wrong with them,
and at intervals we could hear the distant caymen.
The roaring of the jaguars was awful ; but it was music
to the dismal noise of these hideous and malicious
reptiles.

About half-past five in the morning, the Indian
peed 1 ^^^^® '^^ silently to take a look at the bait,
hooking a Qn arriving at the place he set up a tremen-
dous shout We all jumped out of our ham-
mocks, and ran to him. The Indians got there before
me, for they had no clothes to put on, and I lost two
minutes in looking for my trousers, and in slipping
into them.

We found a cayman, ten feet and a half long, fast to
the end of the rope. Nothing now remained to do but
to get him out of the water without injuring his scales,
"hoc opus, hie labor." We mustered strong: there
were three Indians from the creek, there was my own
Indian (Yan), Daddy Quashi (the negro from Mrs. Pe-
terson's), James (Mr. E. Edmonstone's man, whom I
was instructing to preserve birds), and, lastly, myself.

I informed the Indians that it was my intention to
draw him quietly out of the water, and then secure
him. They looked and stared at each other, and said
I might do it myself, but they would have no hand in
it ; the cayman would worry some of us. On saying
this, " consedere duces," they squatted on their hams
with the most perfect indifference.

mmm

198

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMEUICA.

The Indians of these wilds have never been subject
to the least restraint ; and I knew enough of them to
he aware that if I tried to force them against their will,
they would take oif, and leave me and my presents
unheeded, and never return.

Daddy Quashi was for applying to our guns, as usual,
considering them our best and safest friends. I imme-
diately offered to knock him down for his cowardice,
and he shrank back, begging that I would be cautious,
and not get myself worried, and apologising for his own
want of resolution. My Indian was now in conversa-
tion with the others, and they asked me if I would
allow them to shoot a dozen arrows into him, and thus
jiisable him. This would have ruined all. I had come
above three hundred miles on purpose to get a cayman
uninjured, and not to carry back a mutilated specimen.
I rejected their proposition with firmness, and darted a
disdainful eye upon the Indians.

Daddy Quashi was again beginning to remonstrate,
and I chased him on the sand-bank for a quarter of
a mile. He told me afterwards he thought he should
have dropped down dead with fright, for he was firmly
persuaded, if I had caught him, I should have bundled
him into the cayman's jaws. Here, then, we stood in
silence, like a calm before a thunder-storm. " Hoc res
summa loco. Scinditur in contraria vulgus." They
wanted to kill him, and I wanted to take him alive.

I now walked up and down the sand, revolving a
dozen projects in my head. The canoe was at a con-
siderable distance, and I ordered the people to bring it
round to the place where we were. The mast w^
eight feet long, and not much thicker than my wrist.
I took it out of the canoe, and wrapped the sail round

the
wei
san
rus
ma
W]
up,
the

Pi

take
iiian

"Wi

rfro:

wh

of

gui

lari
wa
am
Th
eas
wij
th(

CftJ

th(
go

sai
do'
ed|
he

■ "■mM»ii».i».i»'Lie» ifeiiiiifem

AMEniCA.

9 never been subject

enough of them to

jm against their will,

06 and my presents

to our guns, as usual,
sst friends. I imme-
n for his cowardice,
I would be cautious,
ologising for his own
as now in conversa-
sked me if I would
8 into him, and thus
ned all. I had come
pose to get a cayman
mutilated specimen,
rmness, and darted a

ning to remonstrate,
ank for a quarter of
le thought he should
fht, for he was firmly
should have bundled
re, then, we stood in
ler-storm. " Hoc res
•aria vulgus." They
to take him alive,
he sand, revolving a
J canoe was at a con-
the people to bring it
rere. The mast w^s
icker than my wrist,
■apped the sail round

K=:

THIPI) JOURNEY.

I^AVtektUi(£;idtft!^¥v A . *i ; k t a^. .-fy^ti^T I'X^M'mAitfM: «tMV w.^ ' <Mf «US' &i

199

the end of it. Now, it appeared clear to me that if I
went down upon one knee, and held the mast in the
aamo position as the soldier holds his bayonet when
rushing to the charge, I could force it dowA the cay-
man's throat, should he come open-mouthed at mo.
When this was told to the Indians, they bnghtened
up, and said they would help me to pull him out of
the river.

"Brave squad!" said I to myself, "'Audax omnia
perpeti,' now that you have got me betwixt
tftke the Cay- yourselves and danger." I then mustered all
hands for the last time before the battle.
"We were, four South American savages, two negroes
rfrom Africa, a creole from Trinidad, and myself, a
white man from Yorkshire; in fact, a little Tower
of Babel group, in dress, no dress, address, and lan-
guage.

Daddy Quashi hung in the rear ; I showed him a
large Spanish knife, which I always carried in the
waistband of my trousers : it spoke volumes to him,
and he shrugged up his shoulders in absolute despair.
The sun was just peeping over the high forests on the
eastern hills, as if coming to look on, and bid us act
with becoming fortitude. I placed all the people at
the end of the rope, and ordered them to pull till the
cayman appeared on the surface of the water; and
then, should he plunge, to slacken the rope and let him
go again into the deep.

I now took the mast of the canoe in my hand (the
sail being tied round the end of the mast), and sunk
down upon one knee, about four yards from the water's
edge, determining to thrust it down his throat, in case
he gave me an opportunity. I certainly felt somewhat

200

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

uncomfortable in this situation, and I thought of Cer-
berus on the other side of the Styx ferry. The people
pulled the cayman to the surface ; he plunged furiously
as soon as he arrived in these upper regions, and imme-
diately went below again on their slackening the rope.
I saw enough not to fall in love at first sight. I now
told them we would run all risks, and have him on
land immediately. They pulled again, and out ho
came, — "monstrura horrendum, informe." This was
an interesting moment I kept my position firmly,
with my eye fixed stedfastly on him.

By the time the cayman was within two yards of
me, I saw he was in a state of fear and perturbation ; I
instantly dropped the mast, sprung up, and jumped on
his back, turning half round as I vaulted, so that I
gained my seat with my face in a right position. I
immediately seized his fore-legs, and, by main force,
twisted them on his back ; thus they served mo for
a bridle.

He now seemed to have recovered from his surprise,
and, probably fancying himself in hostile company, he
begun to plunge furiously, and lashed the sand with
his long and poi^-erful tail. I was out of reach of the
strokes of it, by being near his head. He continued
to plunge and strike, and made my seat very uncom-
fortable. It must have been a fine sight for an un-
occupied spectator.

The people roared out in triumph, and were so voci-
ferous, that it was some time before they heard me tell
them to pull me and my beast of burthen further inland.
I was apprehensive the rope might break, and then there
would have been every chance of going down to the
regions under water with the caymaii. That would

hfl

ri(

sa
m
m
L(

m
I

hi
n<
sc
oj
I
tl
I]

P'
I

a
h
u
ft

]y
p

a
h
v

t:

V

■tr's^

AMERICA.

id I thought of Cer-
X forry. The people
he plunged furiously
ir regions, and imme-
slackening the rope,
it first sight. I now
s, and have him on
again, and out ho
informe." This was
my position firmly,

01.

within two yards of
and perturbation j I

g up, and jumped on

I vaulted, so that I
a right position. I

and, by main force,
they served mo for

ed from his surprise,
hostile company, he
ished the sand with
I out of reach of the
iiead. He continued
ny seat very uncom-
Lue sight for an un-
fa, and were so voci-
•e they heard me tell
irthen further inland,
break, and then there
f going down to the
tymah. That would

THIRD JOURNET.

901

have been more perilous than Arion's marine morning
ride : —

" DcliiUlnl Intiiaenii vada oisnila sulrat Arion."

The people now dragged us about forty yards on the
sand : it was the first and last time I was ever on a cay-
man's back. Should it be asked, how 1 managed to keep
my seat, I woui 1 answer, — I hunted some years with
Lord Darlington's fox hounds.

After repeated attempts to regain his liberty, the cay-
man gave in, and became tranquil through exhaustion.
I now managed to tie up his jaws, and firmly secured
his fore-feet in the position I had held them. We had
now another severe struggle for superiority, but he was
soon overcome, and again remained quiet. While some
of the people were pressing upon his head and shoulders,
I threw myself on his tail, and by keeping it down to
the sand, prevented him from kicking up another dust.
He was finally conveyed to the canoe, and then to the
place where we had suspended our hammocks. There
I cut his throat ; and after breakfast was over, com-
menced the dissection.

Now that the affray had ceased. Daddy Quashi played
a good finger and thumb at breakfast ; he said he found
himself much revived, and became very talkative and
useful, as there was no longer any danger. Ho was a
faithful, honest uegro. His master, my worthy friend
Mr. Edmonstone, had been so obliging aa to send out
particular orders to the colony, that the Daddy should
attend me all the time I was in the forest. He had lived
in the wilds of Demerara with Mr. E Imonstone for
many years ; and often amused me with the account of
the frays his master had had in the woods with snakes,
wild beasts, and runaway negroes. Old age was now

/J

mmm

SOS

WANDEniNOS IN SODTH AMERICA.

Its teeth.

coming fiist upon him ; he had been an ahle follow in
his younger tlays, and a gallant one too, for ho hnd a
large scar over his eyebrow, caused by the stroke of a
cutlass, from another negro, while the Daddy was
engaged in an intrigue.

The bttik of The back of the cayman may be said to }ye
tiiecaynmu. almost impenetrable to a musket ball, but
his sides are not near so strong, and are easily pierced
with an arrow ; indeed, were they as strong as the back
ond the belly, there would be no part of the cayman's
body soft and elastic enough to admit of expansion after
taking in a supply of food.

The cayman has no grinders ; his teeth
are entirely made for snatch and swallow ;
there are thirty-two in each jaw. Perhaps no animal in
existenee bears more decided marks in his countenance
of cruelty and malice than the cayman. He is the
scourge and terror of all the large rivers in South
America near the line.

One Sunday evening, some years ago, as I was walk-
ing with Pon Felipe de Ynciarte, governor
of Angustura, on the bank of the Oroonoque,
" Stop here a minute or two, Don Carlos," said he to
me, " while I recount a sad accident. One fine evening,
last year, as the people of Angustura were sauntering up
and down here, in the Alameda, I was within twenty
yards of this place, when I saw a large cayman rush out
of the river, seize a man, and carry him down, before
anybody had it in his power to assist him. The screams
of the poor fellow were terrible as the cayman was run-
ning off with him. He plunged into the river with his
prey ; we instantly lost sight of him, and never saw or
heard him more."

Anecdote.

-■—■--■-?■.> v'--J»imi'»i|.'<!gfe.a:ai-rgj^5'8

MERICA.

I on ohle fellow in

0 too, for ho had a
by tho stroke of a
> tho Daddy was

n may he said to 1)e

1 muaket hall, but
1 are easily pierced

strong as tho back
rt of the cayman's
) of expansion after

rinders; his teeth
atch and swallow ;
rbaps no animal in
in his countenance
yman. He is the
J rivers in South

igo, as I was walk-
Ynciarte, governor
; of the Oroonoque,
Carlos," said he to

One fine evening,
were sauntering up
tvas within twenty
» cayman rush out

him down, before
him. The screams
e cayman was run-

the river with his
, and never saw or

TniRD JOCRNRT.

203

I was a day and a half in dissecting our cayman, uiul
then wo all got ready to return to Demerara.

It was much more perilous to descend than to ascend
tho falls in the Essctiuibo.

or^atrtftHRer ^he placo we had to pass had proved fatal
thifruiUofti'iS to fo"'" In<l>»n« a^'O"* " '"""th before. Tho
FimoquiiMi. ^ater foamed, anddashed, and boiled amongst
the steep and craggy rocks, and seemed to warn us to
be careful how we ventured there.

I was for all hands to get out of the canoe, and then,
after lashing a long rope ahead and astern, we might
have climbed from rock to rock, and tempered her in
her passage down, and our getting out would have
lightened her much. But the negro who had joined
us at Mrs. Peterson's said he was sure it would be safer
to stay in the canoe while she went down the fall. I
was loth to give way to him ; but I did ao this time
against my better judgment, as he assured me that he
was accustomed to pass and repass these falls.

Accordingly we determined to push down : I was at
the helm, the rest at their paddles. But before we got
half-way through, the rushing waters deprived the canoe
of all power of steerage, and she became the sport of the
torrent ; in a second she was half full of water, and I
cannot comprehend to this day why she did not go
down; luckily the people exerted themselves to the
utmost, she got headway, and they pulled through the
whirlpool ; I being quite in the stem of the canoe, part
of a wave struck me, and nearly knocked me overboard.
We now paddled to some rocks at a distance, got out,
unloaded the canoe, and dried the cargo in the sun,
which was very hot and powerful. Had it been the wet
season, almost everything would have been spoiled.

"m*

flHIla

tm

304

WANDEBINOS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

I >

After this, tho vnynRo down the I'^aoquibo wiw (iiiick
and pleiwiint till wo reached the Hea-coa«t ; there we hail
a trying diiy of it ; tho wind was dead against uh, and
tho snn renmikiibly iiot ; wo got twice aground upon a
mud- flat, and were twice obligml to got out, up to tho
middle in mud, to shove tho canoe through it. Half-way
Iwtwixt tlio ilflsequilw and Domorara tho tide of Hood
caught us ; and after tho utmoHt exertions, it was half-
past six in tho evening before we got to George-town.
Ri-nciu'ii Wo had been out from six in tho morning

eoFKi!- own. jj^ ^jj ^pgjj pjjjjjj^j pj^ j.jjg sea-coast, without

umbrella or awning, exposed all day to tho fiery rays of
a tropical sun. My face smarted so that I could get no
sleep during tho night, and tho next morning my lips
were all m blisters. The Indian Yan wont down to the
I'^ssotiuibo a copper colour, but the reflection of the sun
from the sea, and from the sand-banks in tho river, had
turned him nearly black. He laughed at himself, and
said the Indians in the Demerara would not know him
again. I stayed ono day in George-town, and then set
otf the next momiiijr for head-quarters in Mibiri creek,
where I finished the cayman.

Here the remaining time was spent in collecting birds,
and in paying particular attention to their haunts and
economy. The rainy season having set in, tho weather
became bad and stormy ; tho lightning and thunder
were incessant : the days cloudy, and the nights cold
and misty. I had now been eleven months in the
forests, and collected some rare insects, two hundred
and thirty birds, two land tortoises, five armadillos, two
large serpents, a sloth, an ant-bear, and a cayman.

I left the wilds and repaired to George-town to spend
a few days with Mr. R. Edmonstone previous to embark-

IS^SS

A0?A««ff't^;i'ii.'-«tfr^«««A><^-'f>4l

ii.v"^ ■l»-'-"^''i

AMERICA.

KsBpquiho wiifl (iiiick
coast ; there we liail
iloail agaiiiHt uh, ntul
vice aground upon a
) got out, up to the
1 rough it. Half-way
ra the tide of flood
cortions, it was half-
ot to George-town.
1 six in the morning
le sea-cooBt, without
f to the fiery rays of
that I could get no
xt morning my lips
,n wont down to the
reflection of the sun
iks in the river, had
led at himself, and
rould not know him
-town, and then set
ters in Mibiri creek,

it in collecting birds,
k) their haunts and
set in, the weather
iitniug and thunder
uid the nights cold
von months in the
isects, two hundred
five armadillos, two
and a cayman,
eorge-town to spend
previous to embark-

THrni) jounNEr.

100

itig for Europe. I /mist here return my sinccrfst thimkn
to tlii« worthy gnntloman for his many kimlncssert to
nie; hin friendiliip wiw of the utnioNt scrvico t«t nii-,
anil ho never failed to send nio 8U])plio8 into tlio forest
by every opportunity.

E'lihiirks for I embarked for England, on board the
Kt.giu.i.i. Q^^ West-ludiaman, commanded by Cap-
tain Orcy.

Sir Joseph Bonks had often told mc, ho hoped I
would give a lecture in public, on the new mode I had
discovered of preparing siMciinons in natural history for
museums. I always declined to do so, as I despaired
of ever being able to hit upon a proper method of doing
quadrupeds ; and I was aware that it would have been
an imperfect lecture to treat of birds only. I imparted
what little knowledge I was moster of, at Sir Joseph's,
to the unfortunate gentleman who went to Africa to
explore the Congo j and that was all that took place in
the shape of a lecture. Now that I had hit upon the
way of doing quadrupeds, I drew up a little plan on
board the Dee, which I trusted would have been of
service to naturalists; and by proving to thera the
superiority of the new plan, they would probably bo in-
duced to abandon the old and common way, which is a
disgrace to the present ago, and renders hideous every
specimen in every museum that I have as yet visited.
I intended to have given three lectures : one on insects
and serpents ', one on birds ; and one on quadrupeds.
But as it will be shortly seen, this little plan was
doomed not to be unfolded to public view. Illiberality
blasted it in the bud.

We hnA. a pleasant passage across the Atlantic, and
arrived in the Mersey in fine trim and good spirits.

■HMI

- ',5

206

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

I

Great was the attention I received from the commander
of the Dee. He and his mate, Mr. Spence, took every
care of my collection.

Arrives at On our landing, the gentlemen of the
Liventuoi- Liverpool Custom-house received me as an
old friend and acquaintance, and obligingly offered
their services.

Tw^ice before had I landed in Liverpool, and twice
had I reason to admire their conduct and liberality.
They knew I was incapable of trying to introduce any-
thing contraband, and they were aware that I never
dreamed of turning to profit the specimens I had pro-
ciu-ed. They considered that I had left a comfortable
home in quest of science ; and that I had wandered into
far-distant climes, and gone barefooted, ill clothed, and
ill fed, through swamps and woods, to procure speci-
mens, some of which had never been seen in Europe.
They considered that it would be difficult to fix a price
upon specimens which had never been bought or sold,
and which never were to be, as they were intended to
ornament my own house. It was hard, they said, to
have exposed myself, for years, to danger, and then be
obliged to pay on return to my nntive land. Under
these considerations, they fixed a moderate duty, which
satisfied all parties.

However, this last expedition ended not so. It taught
me how hard it is to learn the grand lesson, "..^uam
memento rebus in arduis, servare mentem."

But my good friends in the Custom-house of Liver-
pool were not to blame. On the contrary, they did all
in their power to procure balm for me instead of rue.
But it would not answer.

They appointed a very civil officer to attend me to

th(
bo
pr(
am
str
ow
th]
bu
mi
evi
coi

we
Up

sal
to
thi

8t£

de

to

gn
im
atl
inJ
th
lif
th^
pu
Ii

m(

sal

f

AMERICA.

from the commander
Spence, took every

) gentlemen of the
3 received me as an
d obligingly offered

Liverpool, and twice
iduct and liberality,
ing to introduce any-
aware that I never
specimens I had pro-
id left a comfortable
; I had wandered into
oted, ill clothed, and
Is, to procure speci-
been seen in Europe,
iifficult to lix a price
)een bought or sold,
bey were intended to
I hard, they said, to
danger, and then be
nntive land. Under
moderate duty, which

ded not so. It taught
and lesson, " ..^uam
Doientem."

stom-house of Liver-
contrary, they did all
>r me instead of rue.

ficer to attend me to

THIRD JOCRNET.

207

the ship. While we were looking into some of the
boxes, to see that the specimens were properly stowed,
previous to their being conveyed to the king's depot,
another officer entered the cabin. He was an entire
stranger to me, and seemed wonderfully aware of his
own consequence. Without preface or apology, he
thrust his head over my shoulder, and said, we had no
business to have opened a single box without his per-
mission. I answered, thfey had been opened almost
every day since they had come jn board, and that I
considered there was no harm in doing so.

He then left the cabin, and I said to myself as he
went out, I suspect I shall see that man again at Phi-
lippi. The boxes, ten in number, were conveyed in
safety firom the ship to the depdt. I then proceeded
to the Custom-house. The necessary forms wore gone
through, and a proportionate duty, according to circum-
stances) was paid.

This done, we returned from the Custom-house to the
dep6t, accompanied by several gentlemen who wished
to see the collection. ITiey expressed themselves highly
gratified. The boxes were closed, and nothing now re-
mained but to convey them to the cart, which was in
attendance at the door of the depdt. Just as one of the
inferior officers was carrying a box thither, in stepped
the man whom I suspected I should see again at Phi-
lippi. He abruptly declared himself dissatisfied with
the valuation which the gentlemen of the customs had
put upon the collection, and said he must detain it
I remonstrated, but it was all in vain.

After this pitiful stretch of power, and bad compli-
ment to the other officers of the customs, who had been
satisfied with the valuation, this man had the folly to

wm

208

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

take me aside, and after assuring me that ho had a great
regard for the arts and sciences, he lamented that con-
science obliged him to do what he had done, and he
wished he had been fifty miles from Liverpool at the
time that it fell to his lot to detain the collection. Had
he looked in my face as he said tliis, he would have
seen no marks of credulity there.

I now returned to the Custom-house, and after ex-
pressing my opinion of the officer's conduct at the dep6t,
I pulled a bimch of keys (which belonged to the
detained boxes) out of my pocket, laid them on the
table, took my leave of the gentlemen present, and soon
after set off for Yorkshire.

I saved nothing from the grasp of the stranger officer
but a pair of live Malay fowls, which a gentleman in
George-town had made me a present of. I had collected
in the forest several eggs of curious birds, in hopes of
introducing the breed into England, and had taken great
pains in doing them over with gum arable, and in pack-
ing thorn in charcoal, according to a receipt I had seen
in tlie Gazette, from the "Edinburgh Philosophical
Journal." But these were detained in the depdt, instead
of being placed under a hen ; which utterly ruined all
my hopes of rearing a new species of birds in England.
Titled personages in London interested themselves in
behalf of the collection, but all in vain. And vain also
were the public and private representations of the first
officer of the Liverpool Custom-house in my favour.

At last there came an order from the Treasury to say,
that any specimens Mr. Waterton intended to present
to public institutions might pass duty free ; but those
which he intended to keep for himself must pay
the duty !

i
thai
8av(
six
(for
pai(
it u
cart
rooi
box

I
peel
smv
in (
pan
die
veci
sug
in t
coll
oth(
nati

pay

Thi

thoi
find
say,

Cob

hee
Ma

1

---■tr"-

II I )ii» ii''i' I iinii»''ii iiHiM"Wi<«i'i

. e^^-'*t£3A^u^,'^'as :kflL»Jt

AMERICA.

I that ho had a great
lamented that con-
le had done, and he
om Liverpool at the
the collection. Had
Ids, he would have

house, and after ex-
sonduct at the dep6t,
5h belonged to the
t, laid them on the
len present, and soon

)f the stranger officer
bich a gentleman iu
it of. I had collected
IS birds, in hopes of
, and had taken great
L arable, and in pack-
a receipt I had seen
burgh Philosophical
in the depdt, instead
ch utterly ruined all
of birds in England,
rested themselves in
vain. And vain also
Bntations of the first
use in my favour.
1 the Treasury to say,
intended to present
duty free ; but those
: himself must pay

THIRD JOURNEY.

209

A friend now wrote to mo from Liverpool, requesting
that I would come over and pay the duty, in order to
save the collection, which had just been detained there
six weeks, I did so. On paying an additional duty
(for the moderate duty first imposed had already been
paid), the man who had detained the collection delivered
it up to me, assuring me that it had been well taken
care of, and that a fire had been frequently made in the
room. It is but justice to add, that on opening the
boxes, there was nothing injured.

I could never get a clue to these h irsh and unex-
pected measures, except that there had been some recent
smuggling discovered in Liverpool ; and that the man
in question had been sent down from London to act the
part of Argus. If so, I landed in an evil hour : " nefasto
die ;" making good the Spanish proverb, " Pagan a las
voces, justos por pecadores :" At times the innocent
suffer for the guilty. After all, a little encouragement,
in the shape of exemption from paying the duty on this
collection, might have been expected ; but it turned out
otherwise ; and after expending large sums in pursuit of
natural history, on my return home I was doomed to
pay for my success : —

" Hie finis Caroli fotoram, hie exitni iUnm
BortetuUt!"

Thus, my fleece, already ragged and torn .with the
thorns and briers which one must naturally expect to
find in distant and untrodden wilds, was shorn, I may
say, on its return to England.

However, this is nothing new ; Sancho
coneiusion. p^^^ ^^^^ j^^^^ ^^^ ^^ similar cases ; for

he says, " Muchos van por lana, y vuelven trasquilados :"
Many go for wool, and come home shorn. In order to

p

BtSB9ES£Sriilittki

i*k

210

Wanderings in south aherica.

pick up matter for natural history, I have wandered
through the wildest parts of South America's equatorial
regions. I have attacked and slain a modem Python,
and rode on the back of a cayman close to the water's
edge; a very diflFerent situation from that of a Hyde-park
dandy on his Sunday prancer before the ladies. Alone
and barefoot I have pidled poisonous snakes out of their
lurl- Qg-plac«s ; climbed up trees to peep into holes for
bats and vampires, and for days together hastened
through sun and rain to the thickest parts of the forest
to procure specimens I had never got before. In fine,
I have pursued the wild beasts over hill and dale,
through swamps and quagmires, now scorched by the
noon-day sun, now drenched by the pelting shower, and
returned to the hammock, to satisfy the cravings of
hunger, often on a poor and scanty supper.

These vicissitudes have turned to chestnut hue a once
English complexion, and changed the colour of my hair,
before father Time had meddled with it. The detention
of the collection after it had fairly passed the Customs,
and the subsequent order from the Ti-easury that I
should pay duty for the specimens, unless they went
presented to some public institution, have cast a damp
upon my energy, and forced, as it were, the cup of Lethe
to my lips, by drinking which I have foigot my former
intention of giving a lecture in public on preparing spe-
cimens to adorn museums. In line, it is this ungenerous
treatment that has paralysed my plans, and caused me
to give up the idea I once had of inserting here ttie
newly discovered mode of preparing quadrupeds and
serpents ; and without it, the account of this last expedi-
tion to the wilds of Guiana is nothing but a — ^fragment.

Farewell, Gentle Beader.

C

thoi

afte

coui

incl

mill

oft

for

scat

con'

Dui

hori

and
duo
Lee
the

Sai
New

Wi]
exp
to, I
Joh
was

«

•*k

AMERICA.

y, I hftve wandered
t America's equatorial
in a modem Python,
I close to the water's
n that of a Hyde-park
re the ladies. Alone
us snakes out of their
to peep into holes for
ya together hastened
est parts of the forest
got before. In fine,
over hill and dale,
now scorched by the
te pelting shower, and
tisfy the cravings of
y supper.

o chestnut hue a once
the colour of my hair,
ith it. The detention
f passed the Customs,
the Ti-easury that I
ens, unless they wens
on, have cast a damp
were, the cup of Lethe
mve foigot my former
blic on preparing spe-
I, it is this ungenerous
plans, and caused me
of inserting here the
iring quadrupeds and
unt of this last expedi-
iiing hut a — ^fragment.

rell, Gentle Beader.

FOURTH JOURKBT.

211

FOURTH JOURNEY.

"Nunc hue, nunc illuc ot utrinque sine online curro,"

Courteous reader, when I bade thee last farewell, I
thought these wanderings were brought to a final close ;
afterwards I often roved in imagination through distant
countries famous for natural history, but felt no strong
inclination to go thither, as the last adventure had ter-
minated in such unexpected vexation. The departure
of the cuckoo and swallow, and summer birds of passage,
for warmer regions, once so interesting to me, now
scarcely caused me to turn my face to the south ; and I
continued in this cold and dreary climate for three years.
During this period, I seldom or ever mounted my hobby-
horse ; indeed it may be said, with the old song —

" Tlie saddle and bridle were laid on the sholf,"

and only taken down once, on the night that I was in-
duced to give a lecture in the Philosophical Hall of
I^eds. A little after this, Wilson's " Ornithology of
the United States " fell into my hands.

Sails for The desire I had of seeing that country,
New Torit. together with the animated description which
Wilson had given of the birds, fanned up the almost
expiring flame. I forgot the vexatious tdready alluded
to, and set off for New York, in the beautiful packet
John WelU, commanded by Captain Harris. The passage
was long and cold ; but the elegant accommodations oa

p 2

MM

I*

212

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMEHICA.

board, and the polite attention of the commander, ren-
dered it very agreeable ; and I landed, in health and
merriment, in the stately capital of the New World.

We will soon pen down a few remarks on this magni-
ficent city, but not just now. I want to venture into
the north-west country, and get to their great canal,
which the world talks so much about, though I fear it
will be hard work to make one's way through bugs,
bears, brutes, and buffaloes, which we Europeans imagine
are so frequent and ferocious in these never-ending
western wilds,

I left New York on a fine morning in July,
York for Ai- without oue letter of introduction, for the
city of Albany, some hundred and eighty
miles up the celebrated Hudson. I seldom care about
letters of introduction, for I am one of those who depend
much upon an accidental acquaintance. Full many a
face do I see, as I go wandering up and down the world,
whose mild eye, and sweet and placid features, seem to
beckon to me, and say, as it were, " Speak but civilly
to me, and I will do what I can for you." Such a face
as this is woith more than a dozen letters of introduc-
tion ; and such a face, gentle reader, I found on board
the steam-boat from New York to the city of Albany.

There was a great number of well-dressed ladies and
gentlemen in the vessel, all entire strangers to me. I
fancied I could see several, whose countenances invited
an unknown wanderer to come and take a seat beside
them ; but there was one who encouraged me more th>in
the rest. I saw clearly that he was an American, and
I judged by his manners and appearance that he had
not spent all his time upon his native soil. I was right
in this conjecture, for he afterwards told me that he had

%-L

f0^

wws-

been
strar
wan
a wc
a foi
to m
H
cand
in a
the <
that
brig
crea

oblij
grat
up t
raise
slop
an a
leve!
stori
me (
forn
had
mon
thei

Her

thei

AMERICA.

the commander, ren-
indcd, in health and
if the New World,
marks on this magni-
want to venture into
to their great canal,
i)out, though I fear it
8 way through bugs,
ive Europeans imagine
I these never-ending

fine morning in July,
introduction, for the
hundred and eighty

I seldom care about
} of those who depend
itance. Full many a
) and down the world,
acid features, seem to
, "Speak but civilly
jr you." Such a face
a letters of introduo-
sr, I found on board

the city of Albany.
oU-dressed ladies and
-e strangers to me. I
I countenances invited
id take a seat beside
(uraged mo more tb>in
^as an American, and
[)earance that he had
tive soil. I was right
8 told me that he had

iMMI

FOURTH JOURNKT.

213

been in Franco and England. I saluted him as one
stranger gentleman ought to salute another when he
wants a little information ; and soon after, I dropped in
a word or two by which ho might conjecture that I was
a foreigner ; but I did not tell him so : I wished him
to make the discovery himself.

He entered into conversation with the openness and
candour which is so remarkable in the American ; and
in a little time observed that he presumed I was from
the old country. I told him that I was, and added,
that I was an entire stranger on board. I saw his eye
brighten up at the prospect he had of doing a fellow-
creature a kind turn or two, and he completely won my
regard by an affability which I shall never forget. This
obliging gentleman pointed out everything that was
grand and interesting as the steam-boat plied her course
up the majestic Hudson. Here the Catskill mountains
raised their lofty summit ; and there the hills came
sloping down to the water's edge. Here he pointed to
an aged and venerable oak, which having escaped the
levelling axe of man, seemed almost to defy the blasting
storm, and desolating hand of time ; and there, he bade
me observe an extended tract of wood, by which I might
form an idea how rich and grand the face of the country
had once been. Here it was that, in the great and
momentous struggle, the colonists lost the day ; and
there they carried all before them : —

" They closed fUU fa«t, on every aide
No slackiiess there was fouud;
And many a gallant gentleman
Lay gasping on the ground."

Here, in iine, stood a noted regiment; there, moved
their great captain j here, the fleets fired their broad-

■H

wmmmm

214

WANDERIN08 IN aOUTH AHGRIOA.

Aides; and there, the whole force rushed on to
battle : —

" nin Doloptim manua, hlo rosKnuii teneluit ArhllleR,
Clusiilliuii lile luL'U, bio a(!i>m (x'ltarii lolebnt."

At tea-time we ook. our. ea ogetner, and the next
morning this worthy American walked up with me to
the inn in Albany, shook me by the hand, and then
wont his way. I bade him farewell, and again farewell,
and hoped that fortune might bring us together again
once more. Possibly she may yet do so ; and should it
be in England, I will take him to my house, as an old
friend and acquaintance, and offer him my choicest
cheer. This excellent gentleman lived in New York,
and his name was William Tyas.

Tlie great ^^ ^^ ^^ Albany that the great canal opens
<""'*•• into the Hudson, and joins the waters of

this river to those of Lake Erie. The Hudson, at the
city of Albany, is distant from Lake Erie about 360
miles. The level of the lake is 564 feet higher than the
Hudson, and there are eighty-one locks on the canal.
It is to the genius and perseverance of De Witt Cliutou
that the United States owe the almost incalculable
advantages of this inland navigation. " Exogit monu-
mentum sere pereunius." You may either go along it
all the way to Buffalo, on Lake Erie, or by the stage ;
or sometimes on one and then in the other,
just as you think fit. Grand, indeed, is the
scenery by either route, and capital the accommodations.
Cold and phlegmatic must he be who is not warmed
into admiration by the surrounding scenery, and
charmed with the affability of the travellers he meets
on the way.

This is now the season of roving, and joy and merri>

Scenery.

men
are
the
is I
and
atl
mu<
thei
wh(
ami
of
safe
the
moi
I
strc
cou
It i
tad;
the
run
tail
ger
any

sib
citi
tha
nai
the
the
for

IL

mmm

I AMGBICA.

broe rushed on to

tenelxit Arhllles,

ira lolebut."

jetner, and the next
alked up with mo to
tlie hand, and then
[1, and again farewell,
ig us together again
) do 80 ; and should it
) my house, as an old
'er him my choicest
lived in New York,

the great canal opens

joins the waters of

The Hudson, at the

lake Erie ahout 360

4 feet higher than the

locks on the canal.

:e of De Witt Cliutou

almost incalculable

on. " Exegit monu-

ty either go along it

rie, or by the stage ;

id then in the other,

Grrand, indeed, is the

the accommodations.

who is not warmed

inding scenery, and

e travellers he meets

;, and joy and merri*

FOURTH JOURNBT.

215

ment for the gentry of this happy country. Thousands
are on the move, from different parts of the l^'niou, for
the springs and lakes, and the falls of Niagara. There
is nothing haughty or forbidding in the Americans ;
and wherever you meet them, they appear to be quite
at home. This is exactly what it ought to be, and very
much in favour of the foreigner who journey lamongs
them. The immense number of highly polished females
who go in the stages to visit the different places of
amusement, and see the stupendous natural curiosities
of this extensive country, incontestjibly proves that
safety and convenience are ensured to them, and that
the most distant attempt at rudeness would, by com-
mon consent, be immediately put down.

By the time I had got to Schenectady, I began
strongly to suspect that I had come into the wrong
countiy to look for bugs, bears, brutes, and buffaloes.
It is an enchanting journey from Albany to Schenec-
tady, and from thence to Lake Erie. The situation of
the city of Utica is particularly attractive ; the Mohawk
running close by it, the fertile fields and woody moun-
tains, and the falls of Trenton, foreibly press the stran-
ger to stop a day or two here, before he proceeds
onward to the lake.

At some far-distant period, when it will not be pon-
sible to find the place where many of the celebrated
cities of the East once stood, the world will have to
thank the United States of America for bringing their
names into the western regions. It is, indeed, a pretty
thought of these people to give to their rising towns
the names of places so famous and conspicuous in
former times.

As I was sitting one evening under an oak, in the

llBll

b;^:-)**

iMM

216

WANDBniNOS IN SOUTH AMERICA;

liigh grouiulH bohinil llticn, I could not look down
upon tho city without thinking of (Jiito and his niiH-
i'ortunos. Hud tho town been called Crofton, or Warni-
Keld, or Dowsbury, there would liave been nothing
remarkable in it ; but Utica at once revived the Hcones
at Hchool long post and lialf forgotten, and carried nie
with full speed back again to Italy, and from thenco to
Africa. I crossed the Itubicon with Ciosor ; fought at
rharsalia ; saw poor Pompey into Larissa, and tried to
wrest the fatal sword from Cato's hand in Utica. When
I perceived he was no more, I mourned over the noblo-
I'lind'^d man who took that part which he thought
\/ould most benefit liis country. There is something
iu.xgnificent in the idea of a man taking by choice
the conquered side. The Roman gods themselves did
otharwise.

" Vietrix cauiiB Dllii placult, ged vteta Catoni."

" In thix (11(1 Cuto with tho Ondii divide,
They (.-huge tbo uuiuiuoring, Ac the conquer'd side,"

The whole of the ?!ountry from Utica to Buffalo is
Face of the pleosing ; and the intervening of the inland
country. lakes, large and deep and clear, adds consi-
derably to the effect. The spacious size of the inns,
their excellent provisions, and the attention which the
traveller receives in going from Albany to Buffalo, must
at once convince him that this country is very much
visited by strangers ; and he will draw the conclusion
that there must be something in it uncommonly in-
teresting to cause so many travellers to pass to and fro.
Nature is losing fast her ancient garb, and putting
on a new dress in these extensive regions. Most of
the stately timber has been carried away ; thousands of
trees are lying prostrate on the ground ; while meadows,

cc

111
tl

HO
Ht
8£
H(
C(

n
n

0

a
a
t

iMM

AMEniCA.

oiild nol look down
f Ciitu and his iiuh-
id Crofton, or Wariu-

hnve beon nothing
CO revived tl»e Hcones
ntton, and cnrriod me
■, and from tlienco to
ith CiCHar ; fought at
Larisaa, and tried to
lund in Utica. When
irned over the noble-
t which he thought

There is something
m taking by choice
gods themselves did

I Catonl."

Ide,

ioiiquor'd side,"

I Utica to Buffalo is
rvening of the inland
nd clear, adds consi-
>ns size of the inns,

attention which the
any to Buifalo, must
juntry is very much
draw the conclusion

it uncommonly in-
9 to pass to and fro.
it garb, and putting
i regions. Most of
away ; thousands of
nd ; while meadows,

wm^

FOUtlTU JOUUNEV.

S17

com-fieldfl, villngea, and i)a8turoH arc ever and anon
bursting upon th« travcaii-r's vi.'W as ho journ.'yH on
through the remaining tracts of wood. 1 wish I could
May a word or two for the finn timber which is yet
Htanding. Spare it, gentle iidiabitants, for your country's
sake ; these noblo sons of the forest beautify your land-
Hcapos beyond all de8crii)tion ; when t^iey are gone, a
century will not replace their loss ; they cannot, they
must not fall ; their vernal bloom, their sunnner rich-
ness, and autumnal tints, pleuse and refresh the oyo
of man ; and oven when the days of joy and warmth
am lied, the wintry blast soothes the listening ear with
a sublime and pleasing melancholy m it howls through
their naked branches.

" Arouml itic tree" iinniimlier'il rise,
Bnautiriil in vnrloim ilyi'ii;
Thv gloomy pill". tli« jioplar blue,
The yelliiw licfoh, the unble yew ;
Thf Hloii«l«r llr, thiit Uiwr grown,
The Btunly oiik, with broad -slireaa boughg."

A few miles before you roach Buffalo, the road is low
and bad, and, in stepping out of the stage, I sprained
my foot very severely ; it swelled to a great size, and
caused me many a day of pain and mortification, as
will be seen in the sequel.

Buffalo looks down on Lake Erie, and

BnflWo. p^ggegggg a fine and commodious inn. At a
little distance is the Black Rock, and there you pass
over to the Canada side. , A stage is in waiting to convey
you some sixteen or twenty miles down to the Falls.
Long before you reach the spot you hear the mighty
roar of waters, and see the spray of the far-famed Falls
of Niagara, rising up like a column to the heavens, and
mingling witli the passing clouds.

■^Hri

mm

m

mt

m

118

WANKKUr.VOS IN 80UTII AMEIIIOA.

At this Btnpendous cancndo of nature, tin watert of
tiie Like full one hundred and w iity-fiix
KiwnT" feot perpendicular. It has been calciilnted,
I foi-Ket hy whom, that tlio quantity of
water diHcharKod down this mighty fall, is six hundrod
and Hov.iity thousand two hundred and Hfty-fivo tons
per minute. There are two larRo inns on the Conatla
si 'j ; but, after you have satiMhed your curiosity in
viewing the Falls, and in soeinff the rainbow in the
foam far below where you aro standing, do not, 1
pray you, tarry lon^ at either of them. Cross over
to the American side, and there you will find a
spacious inn, which luw nearly all the attractions;
there you meet with great attention, and every accom-
modation.

The day is passed in looking at the Falls, and in
sauntering up and down the wooded and rocky environs
of the Niagara ; and the evening is often enlivened by
the merry dance.

Words can hardly do justice to the unaf-
la.!*"'"^"^ f«cted ease and elegance of the Americar
ladies who visit the Falls of Niagara. The
traveller need not rove in imagination through Circassia
in search of fine forms, or through England, France,
and Spain, to meet with polished females. The
numbers who are continually arriving from all parts of
the Union confirm the justness of this remark.

I was looking one evening at a dance, being unable
to join in it on account of the accident I had received
near Buffalo, when a young American entered the
ball-room with such a becoming air and grace, that it
was impossible not to have been struck with her
appearance.

Ic

l^I

Al

\\u
Ai
«4

th
th
lal
sh

wi
of
sa

«c
tu
at
m

M

al
ni
li

•w

a

V

<mm

Pji'wriiii- -n'.r '

HRItlOA.

ure, till w-itcTi of
1 and («•' iity-Bix
i« been calciilntod,
tlio quantity of
ill, id Hix hundrud
and Hfty-fivo tons
ni on the ( ^nnaila
your curiosity in
e i-ainbow in the
nding, do not, 1
hem. CioM over
you will find a
i the attractions ;
and every ocoom-

;he Falls, and in
tid rocky environs
ften enlivened by

istice to the unaf-
of the Americar
jf Niagara. The
through Circassia
England, France,
females. The
from all parts of
8 remark,
jce, being unable
nt I had received
can entered the
nd grace, that it
struck with her

tit

fODBTIl JOUBNBT.

" nrr liIiM.iii WM llki- lli» upringlng tlnW^r
TIml itl|w till' ullvi-r ilrw,
Till' r<MK WM liiii<<lp<t In hnr cbMk,

JllHt CPlMllllllK til tlin vl«W."

I could not help fooling a wish to know where shn had

" liiU) Hiii'li Iwaitly «i)ru«.l, ami blown ••> f»lr."

l^pon in(iuiry, I found that she was from the city of
Albany. The more I looked at tho fair Albanono, the
more I was convinced, that in tho United States of
Anu'rica may bo found grace and beauty and symmetry
equal to anything in tho Old World.

I now for good and all (and well I might) gave up
the idea of finding bugs, beai-s, brutes, and buHaloes in
this country, and was thoroughly satisfied that I had
laboured under a groat mistake in suspecting that I
should over meet with them.

I wished to join in the dance whore the fair Albanese
was •' to brisk notes in cadence beating," but tho state
of my unlucky foot rendered it impossiblt* ; and as I
sat with it reclined upon a sofa, full many a passing
gentleman stojjped to inquire the cause of my misfor-
tune, presuming at the same tinio that I had got au
attack of gout. Now this surmise of theirs always

mortified me ; for I never had a fit of gout in ray life,

and, moreover, never expect to have one.

In many of the inns of the United States, there is an ,

album on the table, in which travellers insert their

arrival and dc-arture, and now and then indulge in a

little flash or i ^vo of wit.

I thought, under existing circumstances, that there

would be no harm in briefly telling my misadventure ;

and so, taking up the pen, I wrote what follows ; and

was never after asked a single question about the gout.
««C. Waterton, of Walton-hall, in the county of

wm- ''^i

idte

220

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

York, England, arrived at the Falls of Niagara, in
July, 1824, and begs leave to pen down the following
dreadful accident : —

" He spraln'd his foot, and hurt his toe,
On the rough road near BiiHiiIo.
It ciuite distresses him to stagger a-
Long the sharp rocks of famed Niagara.
So thus lie's doomed to drink the measure I

Of ]iain, in lieu of that of pleasure.
On Hope's delusive pinions borne,
He came for wool and goes back shorn.
N.II. — Here he alludes to nothing but
Til' advent'.iro of his toe and foot ;
Save this, —he sees all that which can
Delight and chnrni the soul of man.
But feels it not,— bfwause his toe
And foot together plague him so."

I remember once to have sprained my ankle very
violently many years ago, and that the doctor ordered
me to hold it under the pump two or three times a day.
Now, in the United States of America, all is upon a
grand scale, except taxation ; and I am convinced that
the traveller's ideas become much more enlarged as he
journeys through the country. This being the case,
I can easily account for the desire I felt to hold my
sprained foot under the fall of Niagara. I descended
the winding staircase which has been made for the ac-
commodation of travellers, and then hobbled on to the
scene of action. As I held my leg under the fall, I
tried to meditate on the immense differeuQe there was
betwixt a house-pump and this tremendous cascade of
nature, and what effect it might have upon the sprain ;
but the magnitude of the subject was too overwhelming,
and I was obliged to drop it.

Perhaps, indeed, there was an unwarrantable tincture
of vanity in an unknown wanderer wishing to have it
in his power to tell the world, that he had held his

"^iiiiiiil

spri
six
fift;

WOl

W(

fall

ide

the

Mc

of

thi

a ]
tel
we
of
in
fo(
St
lo'
he

an
th
to
ar

tl
sa
N
ac
ai

ERICA.

3 of Niagara, in
)wn the following

s toe,

r a-

"iftgnra,
t lueosuro
irc.

«,

Hlinm.

;but

1 can

lU,

i my ankle very
16 doctor ordered
ihree times a day.
ca, all is upon a
n convincod that
•e enlarged as he
I being the case,
felt to hold my
.ra. I descended
made for the ac-
lobbled on to the
inder the fall, I
BrenQe there was
ndous cascade of
upon the sprain ;
)0 overwhelming,

•rantable tincture
shing to have it
he had held his

FOURTH JOUHNET.

221

sprained foot under a fall of water, which discharges
six hundred and seventy thousand two hundred and
fifty-five tons per minute. A gentle purliug stream
would have suited better. Now, it would have become
Washington to have quenched his battle-thirst in the
fall of Niagara ; and there was something royal in the
idea of Cleopatra drinking pearl-vinegar, made from
the grandest pearl in Egypt; and it became Caius
Marius to send word that he was sitting upon the ruins
of Carthage. Here, we have the person suited to the
thing, and the thing to the person.

If, gentle reader, thou wouldst allow me to indulge
a little longer in this harmless pen-errantry, I would
tell thee, that I have had my ups and downs in life, as
well as other people ; for I have climbed to the point
of the conductor above the cross on the top of St. Peter's,
in Eome, and left my glove there. I have stood on one
foot, upon the Guardian Angel's head, on the castle of
St. Angelo ; and, as I have just told thee, I have been
low down under the fall of Niagara. But this is neither
here nor there ; let us proceed to somethmg else.

When the pain of my foot had become less violent,
and the swelling somewhat abated, I could not resist
the inclination I felt to go down to Ontario, and so on
to Montreal and Quebec, and take Lakes Champlain
and George in my way back to Albany.

Just as I had made up my mind to it, a family from
the Bowling-green, in New York, who was going the
same route, politely invited me to join their party.
Nothing could be more fortunate. They were highly
accomplished. The young ladies sang delightfully ;
and all contributed their portion, to render the tour
pleasant and amusing.

S3S

WANDEKIN08 IN SOUTH AHBRIOA.

Travellera have already filled the world with descrip-
tions of the bold and sublime sceneiy from Lake Erie
to Quebec: —

" The fnuntain'R fall, the river's flow,
The woody vallcyB, warm iiiul low ;
Tlio wiiKly guinniit wild and high.
Roughly rushing to tlie sky."

And there is scarce one of them who has not described
the achievements of former and latter times, on the
different battle-grounds. Here, great Wolfe expired.
Brave Montcalm was carried, mortally wounded,
through yonder gate. Here fell the gallant Brock ;
and there General Sheaffee captured all the invadert;!.
And in yonder harbour may be seen the mouldering
remnants of British vessels. Their hour of misfortune
has long passed away. The victors have now no use
for them in an inland lake. Some have already sunk,
while others, dismantled and half-dismasted, are just
above the water, waiting, in shattered state, that
destiny which must sooner or later destroy the fairest
works of man.

The excellence and despatch of the steam-boats,
together with the company which the traveller is sure
to meet with at this time of the year, render the trip
down to Montreal and Quebec very agreeable.

The Canadians are a quiet, and apparently
dians* *^''"'' * ^*PPy people. They are very courteous
and affable to strangers. On comparing
them with the character which a certain female traveller,
a journalist, has thought fit to give them, the stranger
might have great doubts whether or not he were
amongst the Canadians.

FoTtiflcations Montreal, Quebec, and the Falls of Mont-
at Quebec, morency, are well worth going to Be& They

are

wil

cor

of

ma

to

Th
gei
al
til

wi
to
in
ne
th

CO

th
to
sh
th

fl]

th

cl
ai

Q

b
t\
U

MBRICA.

rorld with descrip-
ly from Lake Erie

ow,
iw;
h,

has not described
ter times, on the
it Wolfe expired,
ortally wounded,
le gallant Brock ;
all the invaders.
1 the mouldering
our of misfortune
have now no use
lave already sunk,
ismoated, are just
tored state, that
iestroy the faii-est

the steam-boats,
B traveller is sure
r, render the trip
;reeable.

3t, and apparently
re very courteous
On comparing
n female traveller,
hem, the stranger
or not he were

he Falls of Mont-
ing to see. They

FOURTH JOCRNEr.

are making tremendous fortifications at Quebec. It
will be the Gibraltar of the New World. When one
considers its distance from Europe, and takes a view
of its powerful and enterprising neighbour, Virgil's re-
mark at once rushes into the mind, —

" Sic vog non vobis nidiflcatiB aves."

I left Montreal with regret. I had the good fortune
to be introduced to the Professors of the College.
These fathers are a very lejirned and worthy set of
gentlemen ; and on my takiug leave of them, I felt
a heaviness at heart, in reflecting that I had not more
time to cultivate their acquaintance.

In all the way from Buffalo to Quebec, I only met
with one bug ; and I cannot even swear that it belonged
to the United States. In going down the St. Lawrence,
in the steam-boat, I felt something crossing over my
neck ; and on laying hold of it with my finger and
thumb, it turned out to be a little half-grown, ill-
conditioned bug. Now, whether it were going from
the American to the Canada side, or from the Canada
to the American, and had taken the advantage of my
shoulders to ferry itself across, I could not tell. Be
this as it may, I thought of my uncle Toby and the
fly ; and so, in lieu of placing it upon the deck, and
then putting my thumb-nail vertically upon it, I quietly
chucked it amongst some baggage that was close by,
and recommended it to get ashore by the first
opportunity.

When we had seen all that was worth seeing in
Quebec and at the Falls of Montmorency, and had
been on board the enormous ship Columbtis, we re-
turned for a day or two to Montreal, and then proceeded
to Saratoga by Lakes Champlain and George.

MM

224

WAm)BRINOH m SOUTH AMERICA.

The steam-boat from Quebec to Montreal had above
five hundred Irish emigrants on board. They
I;'"'' . were coing " they hardly knew whither,"
far away from dear Ireland. It made one's
heart ache to see them all huddled together, without
any expectation of ever revisiting their native soil.
We feared that the sorrow of leaving home for ever,
the miserable accommodations on board the ship which
had brought them away, and the tossing of the angry
ocean, in a long and dreary voyage, would have rendered
them callous to good behaviour. But it was quite
otherwise. They conducted themselves with great pro-
priety. Every American on board seemed to feel for
them. And then " they were so full of wretchedness.
Need and oppression stared in their eyes. Upon their
backs hung ragged misery. The world was not their
friend." "Poor dear Ireland," exclaimed an aged
female, as I was talking to her, " I shall never see it
any more ! " and then her tears began to flow. Pro-
bably the scenery on the banks of the St. Lawrence
recalled to her mind the remembrance of spots once
interesting to her : —

" The lovely daughter, — ^lovelier in her tears,
The fond companion of her father's years.
Here silent stood,— neglentftil of her charms,
And left her lover's for her father's arms.
With louder plaints the mother siioke her woes.
And bless'd the cot where every pleasure rose ;
And press'd her thoughtlens Imbed with many a tear.
And clasp'd them close, in sorrow doubly dear.
While the fond husband strove to lend relief,
In all the silent manliness of grief."

We went a few miles out of our route to take a look
at the once formidable fortress of Ticonderaga It has
long been in ruins, and seems as if it were doomed to
moulder quite away.

Tl
marl

Ban

jaun
ther

gay

hot(

byi

thrc

nati

mu(

prel

1

digi

and

gen

elei

spa

]

mil

us;

the

ing

ha]

cie:

HERICA.

ontreal had above
its on board. They
y knew whither,"
6. It made one's
together, without
their native soil,
ig home for ever,
id the ship which
sing of the angry
mid have rendered
But it was quite
'es with great pro-
eemed to feel for
[ of wretchedness,
iyes. Upon their
irld was not their
claimed an aged
shall never see it
m to flow. Pro-
the St. Lawrence
ice of spots once

»T8,

larma,

8.

ler woes,
re rose;
many a tear,
)ly dear,
relief.

lite to take a look
snderaga It has
t were doomed to

9-1

FOURTH oOUBNBY. 2LJ

" Ever and anon there falls
Huge heaps of hoary moulder'd walls.
But time has seen, that lifts the low
And level lays the lofty brow,
Has seen this ruln'd pile complete.
Big with the vanity of state,
But transient is the aniilo of fate."

The scenery of Lake George is superb ; the inn re-
markably spacious and weU attended ; and the convey-
ance from thence to Saratoga very good. He

*'"' *"■ must be sorely afflicted with spleen and
jaundice who, on his arrival at Saratoga, remarks,
there is nothing here worth coming to see. It is a
gay and fashionable place ; has four uncommonly fine
hotels ; its waters, for medicinal virtues, are surpassed
by none in the known world ; and it is resorted to,
throughout the whole of the summer, by foi-eigners and
natives of the first consideration. Saratoga pleased me
much ; and afforded a fair opportunity of forming a
pretty correct idea of the gentry of the United States.

There is a pleasing frankness, and ease, and becoming
dignity in the American ladies ; and the good humour,
and absence of all haughtiness and puppyism in the
gentlemen, must, no doubt, impress the traveUer with

elevated notions of the company who visit this famous

spa.

During my stay here, all was joy, and affabUity, and
mirth. In the mornings the ladies played and sang for
us ; and the evenings were generally enlivened with
the merry dance. Here I bade farewell to the charm-
ing family in whose company I had passed so many
happy days, and proceeded to Albany.

The stage stopped a little while in the town
'^^' of Troy. The name alone was quite suffi-
cient to lecaU to the miiid scenes long past and gone.

ma

■22G

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

Poor king Priam ! Napoleon's Borrows, sad and piercing
ivs they were, did not come up to those of this ill-fated
monarch. ITie Greeks first set his town on fire, and
then began to bully : —

" Incenst Danal dominantnr in urbe."

One of his sons was slain before his face ; " ante era
parentum, concidit." Another was crushed to mummy
by boa constrictors ; " immensis orbibus angues." His
city was razed to the ground, "jacet Ilion ingens."
And Pyrrhus ran him through with his sword, " capulo
tenus abdidit ensem." This kst may be considered as
a fortunate stroke for the poor old king. Had his life
been spared at this juncture he could not have lived
long. He must have died broken-hearted. He would
have seen his son-in-law, once master of a noble stud,
now, for want of a horse, obliged to carry oflf his father,
up hill, on his own back, " cessi et sublato, montem
genitore petivi." He would have heard of his gi-and-
flon being thrown neck and heels from a high towes,
" mifctitur Astyanax illis de turribus." He would have
been informed of his wife tearing out the eyes of king
Odrysius with her finger-nails, "digitos in perfida
lumina condit." Soon after this, losing all appearance
of woman, she became a bitch,

" Perdldlt tafellx homlnla post omnia fonnam,"

and rent the heavens with her bowlings,

" Extemasque novo latratu temiit aoias."

Then, becoming distracted with the remembrance of
her misfortunes, "veterum memor ilk malorum," she
took off howling into the fields of Thrace,—

" Taio qnoque SiUtonloa nlnlavjt aoeita per agnw."

Juno,
poor

Had
one 1
i'actit
uobl;
becoi

At SI
iutcE
the
then

Afte
Albi
toli

Pbilai

Phi]
beat
nesE
the
tive
whi
Phi
sau:
at ;
woi
tlie
lua:

AMKRIOA.

>W8, sad and piercing
hose of this ill-fated
is town on lire, and

n urbe."

bifl face; "ante ora

crushed to mummy
bibus angues." His
jacot Dion ingens."

his sword, " capulo
lay be considered as
king. Had his life
•uld not have lived
learted. He would
ter of a noble stud,

carry off his father,
it sublato, montem
beard of his gi-and-
Erom a high towes,
," He would have
ut the eyes of king

digitos in perfida
ising all appearance

i fonnani,"
ings,

it BOIW."

le remembrance of
ilia malorum," she
lirace, —

taperagroa."

FOURTH JOURNET.

227

Juno, Jove's wife and sister, was heard to declare, that
poor Hecuba did not deserve so terrible a fate, —

" Ipsa Jovis conjuxque sonmine,
Evening Hecubara ineruiwie ntgaverit illog."

Had poor Priam escaped from Troy, one thing, and only
one thing, would have given him a small ray of satis-
faction, viz. he would have heard of one of his daughter^
nobly preferring to leave this world, rather than live to
become servant-maid to old Grecian lauies :—

" Non ego Mymiidonum iiedes, Dolopunive guperbao,
Adgpleioin, aiit Grails gervituin matribus Ibo."

At some future period, should a foreign armed force, or
intestine broils, (all which Heaven avert,) raise Troy to
the dignity of a fortified city, VirgU's prophecy may
then be fulfilled,—

" Atque Iterum ad Trcijaiu magnng mlttetur Achillea."

After leaving Troy, I passed through a fine country to
Albany ; and then proceeded by steam down the Hudson

to New York.

Travellers hesitate whether to ^.ive the
Pbiiadeiphia. ^^f^^^^^^ ^ Philadelphia or to New York.
Philadelphia is certainly a noble city, and its environs
beautiful ; but there is a degree of quiet and sedate-
ness in it, which, though no doubt very agreeable to
the man of calm and domestic habits, is not so attrac-
tive to one of speedy movements. The quantity of
white marble which is used in the buildings gives to
PhUadelphia a gay and lively appearance; but the
sameness of the streets, and their crossing each other
at right angles, are somewhat tiresome. The water-
works which supply the city are a proud monument of
the skill and enterprise of its inhabitants ; and the
market is well worth the attention of the stranger.

q2

,,™„^_™iui

J^

223

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMEHICA.

Its MoBenm.

When you go to Philadelphia, be sure not
to forget to visit the Museum. It will affonl
you a great treat. Some of Mr. Peale's family are con-
stantly in it, and are ever ready to show the curiosities
to strangers, and to give them every necessary informa-
tion. Mr. Peale has now passed his eightieth year, and
appears to possess the vivacity, and, I may almost add,
the activity of youth.

To the indefatigable exertions of this gentleman is
the western world indebted for the possession of this
splendid museum. Mr. Peale is, moreover, an excellent
artist. Look attentively, I pray you, at the portrait he
has taken of himself, by desire of the State of Penn-
sylvania. On entering the room he appears in the act
of holding up a curtain to show you his curiosities.
The effect of the light upon his head is iniinitely
striking. I have never seen anything finer in the way
of light and shade. The skeleton of thfe mammoth is
a national treasure. I could form but a faint idea of it
by description, until I had seen it. It is the most
magnificent skeleton in the world. The city ought
never to forget the great expense Mr. Peale was put to,
and the skUl and energy he showed, during the many
months he spent in searching the swamps, where these
enormou-J bones had been concealed tiom the eyes of
the world for centuries.

The extensive squares of this city are ornamented
■with well-grown and luxuriant trees. Its -unremitting
American attention to literature might cause it to be
Mterature. ^^yj^^ ^j^^ Athens of the United States.
Here, learning and science have taken up their abode.
The literary and philosophical associations, the enthu-
siasm of individuals, the activity of the press, and the

AMERICA.

adelphia, be sure not
useum. It will afford
Bale's family are con-
show the curiosities
y necessary informa-
8 eightieth year, and

I, I may almost add,

3f this gentleman is
e possession of this
jreover, an excellent

II, at the portrait he
the State of Penn-

le appears in the act

you his curiosities.

head is infinitely

ing finer in the way

of th6 mammoth is

rat a faint idea of it

it. It is the most

The city ought

t. Peale was put to,

[, during the many

wamps, where these

d fix)m the eyes of

ity are ornamented
8. Its -unremitting
tight cause it to be
lie United States.
cen up their abode,
iations, the enthu-
the press, and the

FOURTH JOURNEY.

229

cheapness of the publications, ought to raise the name
of Philailelphia to an elevated situation in the temple
of knowledge.

From the press of this city came "Wilson's famous
" Ornithology." By observing the birds in their native
haunts, he has been enabled to purge their history of
numberless absurdities, which inexperienced theorists
had introduced into it. It is a pleasing and a brilliant
work. We have no description of birds in any European
publication that can come up to this. By periiHiiig
" Wilson's Ornithology " attentively before I left Eng-
land, I knew where to look for the birds, and imme-
diately recognised them in their native land.

Whlte-heaaed ^^^^^ ^^^ *»«»«' ^ ^«" *^** *^° ^^*^-

eagioii. headed eagles have been much thinned. I

was perpetually looking out for them, but saw very
few. One or two came now and then, and soared in lofty
flight over the Falls of Niagara. The Americans are
proud of this bird in effigy, and their hearts rejoice
when its banner is unfurled. Could they not then be
persuaded to protect the white-headed eagle, and allow
it to glide in safety over its own native forests 1 Wore
I an American, I should think I had committed a kind
of sacrilege in killing the white-headed eagle. The Ibis
was held sacred by the Egyptians ; the Hollanders
protect the stork ; the vulture sits unmolested on the
top of the houses in the city of Angustura ; and Robin
Redbreast, for his charity, is cherished by the English :-

" No buriM these pretty balieii
or any man receives,
Till Robin Redbreast painfUly
Did cover them with leaves." •

* The findt against giammar is lost in the beanty of the Idea.

230

WANDERINOB IN SOtTTII AMKRICA.

Poor Wilson was amot- by the liand of death, beforo
he had finished his work. Prince (Jharles liuonaparte,
nephew to the late Emperor Napoleon, aided by some
of the most scientific gentlemen of Poimsylvania,
is continuing this valuable and interesting publi-
cation.

New Ygrk, with great propriety, may be called the
New York Commercial capital of the new world :—

" Urba tttgusta iwtoni, iinlll ceaiura."

Ere long, it will be on thb coast of North America what
Tyre once was on that of Syria. In her port are the
ships of all nations ; and in her streets is displayed
merchandise from all parts of the known world. And
then the approach to it is so enchanting I The verdant
fields, the woody hills, the farms, and country houses,
form a beautiful landscape as you sail up to the city of
New York.

it» streetg Broadway is the principal street. It is
houses, Ac. three miles and a half long. I am at a loss
to know where to look for a street, in any part of the
world, which has so many attractions as this. There
are no steam-engines to annoy you by filling the atmo-
sphere full of soot and smoke ; the houses have a
stately appeai-ance ; while the eye is relieved from the
perpetual sameness, which is common in most streets,
by lofty and luxuriant trees.

American Nothing Can surpass the appearance of
ladies. ^jjg American ladies, when they take their

morning walk, from twelve to three, in Broadway. The
stranger will at once see that they have rejected the
extravagant superfluities which appear in the London
and Parisian fashions ; and have only retained as much
of those costumes as is becoming to the female form.

This, ,

rendei

The V

or tw

binds

of th

head

who

ladies

or tai

by ap

as m

hidin

a dan

swain

deteri

down

that!

Th

a ver

sideri

whicl

to ke

pervt

it in

cap, I

with

cap,

Cane

omai

be a

suad(

A ro

MM

PiPil^iM«pp«»w»y^i.'.iii III

c

\MKniCA.

and of death, beforo
Jharles Huonapnrte,
[eon, aided by some
I of Pennsylvania,
interpsting publi-

may be called the
3 new world : —

Mura."

S'orth America what
In her jx>rt are the
streets is displayed
nown world. And
ting I The verdant
.nd country houses,
iil up to the city of

cipal street. It is
ig. I am at a loss
, in any part of the
ins as this. There
by filling the atrao-
the houses have a
8 relieved from the
on in most streets,

the appearance of
len they take their
in Broadway. The
' have rejected the
ear in the London
[y retained as much
so the female form.

FOURTH JOUBNET.

231

This, joined to their own just notions of dniss, is what
renders the New York ladies »o elegant in their attiie.
The way they wear the Leghorn hat deserves a remark
or two. With us, tlie formal hand of the milliner
binds down the brim to one fixed shape, and that noiit)
of the handsomest. The wearer is obliged to turn heir
head full ninety degrees before she can see the person
who is standing by her side. But in New York the
ladies have the brim of the hat, not fettered with wire,
or tape, or riband, but quite free and undulating ; and
by applying the hand to it, they can conceal or expose
as much of the face as circumstances recjuire. Tl'.is
hiding and exposing of the face, by-the-bye, is certainly
a dangerous movement, and often fatal to the passing
swain. I am convinced in my own mind, that many a
determined and unsuspecting bachelor has been shot
down by this sudden manoeuvre, before he was aware
that he was within reach of the battery.

The American ladies seem to have an abhorrence (and
a very just one too) of wearing caps. When one con
siders for a moment, that women wear the hair long,
which nature has given them both for an ornament and
to keep the head warm, one is apt to wonder by what
perversion of good taste they can be induced to enclose
it in a cap. A mob cap, a lace cap, a low cap, a high
cap, a flat cap, a cap with ribmds dangling loose, a cap
with ribands tied under the chin, apeak cap, an angular
cap, a round cap, and a pyramid cap ! How would
Canova's Venus look in a mob cap 1 If there bo any
ornament to the head in wearing a cap, it must surely
be a false ornament. The American ladies are per-
suaded that the head can be ornamented without a cup.
A rose-bud or two, a woodbine, or a sprig of eglantine,

232

WANDRRINOB IN HOUm AMKKICA.

look woll in tlio braided hair ; and if thero be raven
lucks, 11 lily or a snowdrup may bo inturwoveu with
ell'iict.

Now that the packota are ho safe, and make such
quick paHsages to the United States, it would bo oh well
if Home of our head milliners would go on board of them,
in lieu of getting into the Diligence for Paris. They
would bring bock more taste, and less caricature. And
if they could persuade a dozen or two of the farmers'
Horvant girls to return with them, we should soon have
proof positive, that as good butter and cheese may \)e
made with the hair braided up, and a daisy or primrose
in it, as butter and cheese made in a cap of barbarous
shape ; washed, perhaps, in soap-suds last new moon.

„ , , , New York has very good hotels, and

Ilntols and ^ " '

iioardiuK- eonteel boarding-houses. All charges in-
eluded, you do not pay above two dollars
a-day. Little enough, when you consider the- capital
accommodations, and the abundance of food.

In this city, as well as in uthere which I visited,
everybody seemed to walk at his ease. I could see no
inclination for jostling ; no impertinont staring at you ;
nur attempts to create a row in order to pick your
pocket I would stand for an hour together in Broad-
way, to observe the passing multitude. There ia cer-
tainly a gentleness in these people, both to be admired
and imitated. I could see very few dogs, still fewer
cats, and but a very small proportion of fat women, in
the streets of New York. The climate was the only
thing that I had really to find fault with ; and as the
autumn was now approaching, I began to think of
preparing for warmer regions.

Strangers axe apt to get violent colds, on account of

the

oil

muf
arri
spei
cun
•[ui
of 1
]

(iti

the

ru(

ma

sea

Th

vel

thi

to

thi

II

an

itE

th

al

fp

ca

le

tl

w

a]

d

M

AMKKICA.

1 if thero be raven
be inturwovou witli

(ifo, and make such
, it would he aH well
^0 on board of them,
ce for Paris. Tliey
j88 caricature. And
two of the farmera'
ive should soon have
' and cheese may be
I a daisy gr primrose
L a cap of barbarous
ids last new moon,
r good hotels, and
All charges iu-
•f above two dollars
consider the- capital
e of food.

iK which I visited,
ase. I could see no
nont staring at you ;
order to pick your
r together in Broad-
tude. There ia cer-
, both to be admired
'ew dogs, still fewer
on of fat women, in
limate was the only
It with j and as the
began to think of

colds, on account of

rouBTn Jvjcrnit.

233

the sudden changes of the atmospboro. The luxMi
would often bo oh warm an tro|)i(;al woiithur,
*"""•'*■ and tho close of day cold ..nd chilly. This
must Homotimcs act with suverity upon tho nowly-
arrived stranger ; iiml it renuiroH nioro caro and circum-
spection than 1 am mastor of to guard against it. I
contracted a bad and obstinate cough, which did not
quite leave mo till I had got undev the regiilar heat
of the sun, noar the equator.

I may bo a»kod, Was it oil good f'jllowsbip and
civility during my stay in the United vStatos 1
(iu.«dety. j^.^j ^^ forwivrd person cause offence? was
there no exhilition of drunkonnoss, or swearing, or
rudeness ; or display of conduct which disgraces civilized
man in other countries 1 I answer, very few indeed :
scarce any worth remembering, and none worth noticing.
These are a gentle and a civil people. Should a tra-
veller, now and then in the long run, witness a few of
the scenes alluded to, he ought not, on his return home,
to adduce a solitary instance or two, as the custom of
the countiy. In roving through the wilds of Guiana,
I have sometimes seen a tree hollow at he^ ' , shattered
and leafless ; but I did not on that account condemn
its vigorous neighbours, and put down a memorandum
that the woods were bad. On the contrary, I made
allowances : a thunder-storm, the whirlwind, a blight
from heaven, might have robbed it of its bloom, and
caused its present forbidding appearance. And, in
leaving the forest, I canied away the impression, that
though some few of the trees were defective, the rest
were an ornament to the wilds, full of uses and virtues,
and capable of benefiting the world in a superior
degree.

Pr {

-M

3U

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

A man generally travels into foreign countries for his
own ends ; and T suspect there is scarcely an instance
to be found of a person leaving his own home solely
with the intention of benefiting those amongst whom
he is about to travel, A commercial specjulation,
curiosity, a wish for infonnation, a desire to reap benefit
from an acquaintance with our distant fellow-creatures,
are the general inducements for a man to leave his own
fire-side. This ought never to be forgotten ; and then
the traveller will journey on under the persuasion that
it rather becomes him to court than expect to be
courted, as his own interest is the chief object of his
travels. With this in view, he will always render
himself pleasant to the natives ; and they are sure to
repay his little acts of courtesy with ample interest,
and with a fund of information which will be of great
service to him.

While in the United States, I found our Western
brother a veiy pleasant fellow ; but his portrait has
been drawn in such different shades, by difierent tra-
vellers who have been through his territory, that it
requires a pei-sonal interview before a correct idea can
be formed of his true colours. He is very inquisitive ;
but it is quite wrong on that account to tax him with
being of an impertinent turn. He merely interrogates
you for information ; and when you have satisfied him
on that score, only ask him in your turn for an account
of what is going on in his own country, and he will tell
you everything about it with great good humour, and
in excellent language. He has certainly hit upon the
way (but I could not make out by what means) of
speaking a much purer English language than that
which is in general spoken on the parent soil This

asto
Am
abTe
dert
it f

bad
his
Trii
hea
thn
knc
the
sm(
awi
mo
ho^
reli
wh
nei
cai
"I
I

rej
It

gov

of

COi

ad
cal
wi

a I

i%P

lHEBIOA.

FOURTH JOUBNET.

235

;n countries for his
jarcely an instance
own home solely
(se amongst whom
Brcial speculation,
sire to reap benefit
it fellow-creatures,
n to leave his own
pgotten ; and then
he persuasion that
ban expect to be
shief object of his
ill always render

I they are sure to
h ample interest,

II will be of great

und our Western
; his portrait has
, by different tra-
territory, that it
I correct idea can
very inquisitive ;
; to tax him with
erely interrogates ,
ave satisfied him
rn for an account
r, and he will tell
ood humour, and
nly hit upon the
what means) of
guage than that
areut BoiL This

astonished me much; but it is really the case.
Amongst his many good qualities, he has one unenvi-
abre, and, I may add, a bad propensity : he is immo
derately fond of smoking. He may say, that he learned
it from his nurse, with whom it was once much in
vf gue. In Dutch William's time (he was a man of
bad taste) the English gentleman could not do without
his pipe. During the short space of time that Corpoiul
Trim was at the inn inquiring after poor Lefevre's
health, my uncle Toby had knocked the ashes out of
three pipes. " It was not till my uncle Toby had
knocked the ashes out of his third pipe," &c. Now
these times have luckily gone by, and the custom of
smoking amongst genteel Englishmen has nearly died
away with them : it is a foul custom j it makes a foul
mouth, and a foul place where the smoker stands:
however, every nation has its whims. John Bull
relishes stinking venison; ». Frenchman depopulates
whole swamps in quest of frogs ; a Dutchman's pipe is
never out of his mouth ; a Russian will eat tallow
candles ; and the American indulges in the cigar.
" De gustibus non est disputandum."

Our Western brother is in possession of a country
replete with everything that can contribute to the hap-
piness and comfort of mankind. His code
Its laws and „f laws, purified by experience and common
sense, has fully answered the expectations
of the public By acting up to the true spirit of this
code, he has reaped immense advantages from it. His
advancement, as a nation, has been rapid beyond all
calculation; and, young as he is, it may be remarked,
without any impropriety, that he is now actually reading
a salutary lesson to the rest of the civilized world.

9)m

236

WANDERIXOS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

It is but some forty years ago that he had the dis-
pute with his nurse about a dish of tea. She "wanted
to force the boy to drink it according to hor oWn
receipt. He said, he did not like it, and that it abso-
lutely made him ill. After a good deal of sparring,
she took up the birch rod, and began to whip him with
an uncommon degree of asperity. When the poor lad
found that ho must either drink the nauseous dish of
tea or be flogged to death, he turned upon her in self-
defence ; showed her to the outside of the nursery door
and never more allowed her to meddle with his affairs.

Since the independence, the population has increased
from three to ten millions. A fine navy has been built ;
and everything attended to that could ensure prosperity
at home, and respect abroad.

The former wilds of North America boar ample testi-
mony to the achievements of t^rL jiterprising people.
Forests have been cleared away, ^^v;v ' oined, canals
dug, and flourishing settlements ea o^ nt . From the
shores of the Atlantic an immense (y^^..ui of knowledge
has rolled into the Interior. The Mississippi, the Ohio,
the Missouri, and their tributary streams, have been
wonderfully benefited by it. It now seems as if it
were advancing towards the Stony Mountains ; and,
probably, will not become stationary till it reaches the
Pacific Ocean. This almost immeasurable territory
affords a shelter and a home to mankind in general :
Jew or Oentile, king's-man or republican, he meets
with a friendly reception in the United States. His
opinions, his persecutions, his errors, or mistakes, how-
ever they may have injured him in other countries, are
dead, and of no avail on his arrival here. Provided he
keeps the peace, he is sure to be at rest.

I

feuc
pres
a C(
The
com
Uni
1
into
eve]

En
for A

the

Pro
mei
had
pasi
hav

St.

ami
Th«
hav
are
thr(
con
his
hai
1
par
grei

, — ;2ttfi3£BH|H

UERIOA.

at he bad the dis-
tea. She "wanted
rding to hor oWxi
, and that it abso-
deal of sparring,
to whip him with
iVhen the poor lad
e nauseous dish of
[ upon her in self-
f the nursery door
le -with his affairs,
ition has increased
ivy has been built ;
i ensure prosperity

:a bear ample testi-
Aterprising people,
'lined, canals
ij* in . From the
.<^.j^ of knowledge
isissippi, the Ohio,
irearas, have been
ow seems as if it
Mountains ; and,
J till it reaches the
sasurable territory
unkind in general :
ublican, he meets
lited States. His
, or mistakes, how-
>ther countries, are
lere. Provided he
est.

FOURTH JOURNBT.

237

Politicians of other countries imagine that intestine
feuds will cause a division in this commonwealth ; at
present there certainly appears to be no reason for such
a conjecture. Heaven forbid that it should happen.
The world at large would suffer by it. For ages yet to
come, may this great commonwealth continue to be the
United States of NoiLh America !

The sun was now within a week or two of passing

into the southern hemisphere, and the mornings and

evenings were too cold to be comfortable. I embarked

for the island of Antigua, with the intention

Embarks ^f calling at the different islands in the

for Antigua. °

Caribbean sea, on my way once more towards
the wilds oK Guiana.

We were thirty days in making Antigua, and thanked
Providence for ordering us so long a passage. A tre-
mendous gale of wind, approaching to a hurricane,
had done much damage in the West Indies. Had our
passage been of ordinary length, we should inevitably
have been caught in the gale.

St. John's is the capital of Antigua. In
better times it may have had its gaieties and
amusements : at present, it appears sad and woe-begone.
The houses, which are chiefly of wood, seem as if they
have not had a coat of paint for many years ; the streets
are uneven and ill-paved ; and as the stranger wanders
through them, he might fancy that they would afford a
congenial promenade to the man who is about to take
his last leave of surrounding worldly misery, before he
hangs himsel£

There had been no rain for some time, so that the
parched and barren pastures near the town might, with
great truth, be called Bosinante's own. The mules

St. John's.

2S8

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

!■>'

^;li^

feeding on them pot you in mind of Ovid's description
of famine. : —

" Dura cutis, per quam upecterl vincera poiwent"

It is somewhat singular, that there is not a single river
or brook in the whole island of Antigua. In this it
differs from Tartary in the other world ; which, ac-
cording to old writers, has five rivers; viz. Acheron,
Phlegeton, Cocytus, Styx,- and Lethe.

In this island I found the Ked-start, described in
Wilson's " Ornithology of the United States," I wished
to learn whether any of these birds remain the whole
year in Antigua, and breed there ; or whether they all
leave it for the north when the sun comes out of the
southern hemisphere ; but, upon inquiry, I could get
no information whatever.

After passing a dull week here, I sailed

i»'«n* of for Guadaloupe, whose bold and cloud-capped
mountains have a grand appearance as you
approach the island. Basseterre, the capital, is a neat
town, with a handsome public walk in the middle of it,
well shaded by a row of fine tamarind trees on each
side. Behind the town, La Souffriere raises its high
romantic summit j and, on a clear day, you may see the
volcanic smoke which issues from it.

Nearly midway, betwixt Guadaloupe and Dominica,
you descry the Saintes. Though high, and bold, and
rocky, they have still a diminutive appearance when
compared with their two gigantic neighbours. You
just see Marigalante to windward of them, some leagues
off, about a yard high in the horizon.

Dominica is majestic in high and rugged

DominTrai.**' mountains. As you sail along it, you cannot

help admiring its beautiful coffee planta*

tioi
proi

R

oft
tive
infc
seei
jud|
beei

^fort
race
bon
bui]
roll
moi
and

by

beg
I
the
tab]
bee
inl
liui
bril
hire
the
the
tolc
thii
que

MERIOA.

f Ovid's description

era poBsent"

8 not a single river
atigua. In this it
worid ; which, ac-
irers ; viz. Acheron,
e.

-start, described in
d States." I wished
8 remain the whole
or whether they all
n comes out of the
aquiry, I covdd get

week here, I sailed
)ld and cloud-capped
I appearance as you
lie capital, is a neat
in the middle of it,
arind trees on each
iere raises its high
lay, you may see the
t.

mpe and Dominica,
liigh, and bold, and
ro appearance when
! neighbours. You
f them, some leagues
>n.

in high and rugged

along it, you cannot

atiful coffee plantA-

POtTBTH JOUKNEY.

23d

Roseau.

tions, in places so abrupt and steep, that you would
pronounce them almost inaccessible. Roseau, the
capital, is but a small town, and has nothing
attractive except the well-known hospitality
of the present harbour-master, who is particularly atten-
tive to strangers, and furnishes them with a world of
information concerning the West Indies. Eoseau has
seen better days; and you can trace good taste and
judgment in the way in which the town has originally
been laid out.

Some years ago it was visited by a succession of mis-
-fortunes, which smote it so severely, that it has never
recovered its former appearance. A strong French fleet
bombarded it ; while a raging fire destroyed its finest
buildings. Some time after, an overwhelming flood
rolled down the gullies and fissures of the adjacent
mountains, and carried all before it. Men, women,
and children, houses and property, were all swept away
by this mighty torrent. The terrible scene was said to
beggar aU description, and the loss was immense.

Dominica is famous for a large species of frog, which
the inhabitants keep in readiness to slaughter for the
table. In the woods of this island, the large rhinoceros
beetle is very common ; it measures above six inches
in length. In the same woods is found the beautiful
liumming-bird, the breast and throat of which are of a
brilliant changing purple. I have searched for this
bird in Brazil, and through the whole of the wilds from
the Eio Branco, which is a branch of the Amazons, to
the river Paumaron, but never could find it. I was
told by a man in the Egyptian-hall, in Piccadilly, that
this humming-bird is found in Mexico ; but upon
questioning him more about it, his information seemed

240

WAKDEBING8 IN SOUTH AMERICA.

Uartinico.

to have been acquired by hearsay ; and so I concluded
that it does not appear in Mexico. I suspect that it is
never found out of the Antilles.

After leaving Dominica, you soon reach the
grand and magnificent island of Martinico.
St. Pierre, its capital, is a fine town, and possesses
every comfort. The inhabitants seem to pay consii' -
able attention to the cultivation of the tropical fruu.
A stream of water runs down the streets with great
rapidity, producing a pleasing effect as you pass along.

Here I had an opportunity of examining a cuckoo
which had just been shot. It was exactly the same as
the metallic cuckoo in Wilson's " Ornithology." They
told me it is a migratory bird in Martinico. It pro-
bably repairs to this island after its departure from the
United States.

At a little distance from Martinico, the celebrated
Diamond rock rises in insulated mtyesty out of the sea.
It was fortified during the last war with France, and
bravely defended by an English captain.

In a few hours from Martinico, you are

stLude. ^^ g^ Lucie, whose rough and towering

mountains fill you with sublime ideas, as you approach

its rocky shore. The town Castries is quite

Castries, gj^^j^yg^ jj ^^ literally blown to piec.

by the fatal hurricane, in which the unfortunate governor
and his lady lost their lives. Its present forlorn and
gloomy appearance, and the grass which is grown up in
the streets too plamly show that its hour of joy is
passed away ; and that it is in mourliing, as it were,
with the rest of the British West Indies.

From St. Lucie, I proceeded to Barbadoes in quest of
fi conveyance to the Island of Trinidad.

N
the 1

Barl

brig

Qua

Ver

stril
secc
late
the

SI

diffi

It :
trui
thii
set
D«
ing
losi

■IMiap**B

usafea

lMERICA.

and so I concluded
I suspect that it is

I, you soon reach the

gland of Martinico.

)wn, and possesses

jm to pay consit' '

the tropical frui..

streets with great

as you pass along.

)xamining a cuckoo

exactly the same as

rnithology." They

Martinico. It pro-

> departure from the

nico, the celebrated
jesty out of the sea.
ir with France, and
)tain.

Martinico, you are
}ugh and towering
eas, as you approach
)wn Castries is quite
dly blown to piece
infortunate governor

present forlorn and
rhich is grown up in

its hour of joy is
louraing, as it were,
ndies.

larbadoes in quest of
idad.

POUntn JOtJRNET.

241

Near Bridge-town, the capital of Barbadoes, I saw
the metallic cuckoo, already alluded to.

Barbadoes is no longer the merry island it
Barbadoea. ^„g ^yjjgQ J ylsitcd it Some years ago :—

" Infellx habltum, temporis hujus habot."

are is an old song, to the tune of La Belle Catha-
which must evider ., "e ^^en composed in
brighter times : —

" Comp, let us dance and ilng,
While Harbadoea bells do ling ;
Quaahi scrapes the flddle-stripg,
And Venus plays the lute."

Quashi's fiddle was silent, and mute was the lute of
Venus, during my stay in Barbadoes, The difference
betwixt the French and British islands was very
striking. The first appeared happy and content ; the
second wero filled with murmurs and complaints. The
late proceedings in England, concerning slavery, and
the insurrection in Demerara, liad evidently caused the
gloom. The abolition of slavery is a ques-
tion full of benevolence and fine feelings,
difficulties and danger : —

" Tantum ne noceas, dnm vis prodessa vldeto,"

It requires consummate prudence, and a vast fund of
true information, in order to draw just conclusions on
this important subject. Phaeton, by awkward driving,
set the world on fire : " Sylvse cum montibus ardent."
Dtedalus gave his son a pair of wings, without consider-
ing the consequence ; the' boy flew out of all bounds,
lost his wings, and tumbled into the sea :—

Icarus, Icarlis nomlna fecit aqnis.
B

Slavorj'.

*

li

ji

WANDERINGS IN 80DTB AMERICA.

When the old man saw what had happened, he damned
his own handicraft in wing-making ; " devovitque suas
artes." Prudence is a cardinal virtue : —

" Omnia comuIU meate gerenda tegeni."

Foresight is half the hattle. "Homhre aporcebido,
medio combatido," saya Don Quixote, or Sancho, I do
not remember which. Had Queen Bess weighed well
in her own mind the probable consequences of this
lamentable traffic, it is likely she would not have been
owner of two vessels in Sir John Hawkins's squadron,
which committed the first robbery in negro flesh on the
coast of Africa. As philanthropy is the very life and
soul of this momentous question on slavery, which is
certainly fraught with groat difficulties and danger,
perhaps it would be as well at present for the nation
to tarn its thoughts to poor Ul-fated Ireland, where
oppression, poverty, and rags make a heart-rending
appeal to the feelings of the benevolent.

But to proceed. There was another thing which
added to the dulness of Barbadoee, and which seemed
to have considerable effect in keeping away strangers
from the island. The legislature had passed a most
extraordinary bill, y virtue of which every person who
arrives at Barbadoes is obliged to pay two dollars, and
two doUars more on his departure from it. It is called
the alien bill ; and every Barbadian who leaves or
returns to the island, and every Englishman too, pays
the tax !

Embark, ^"i^ing no vossel here for Triaidad, I

torDomerara. embarked in a schooner for Demerara,

landed there after being nearly stranded on

a sand-bank, and proceeded without loss of time to the

-«

>MGRIOA.

ippenod, he damned
; " devontque suas
ue : —

t tegons."

[ombre apercebido,
)te, or Sancho, I do

Bess weighed well
insequencea of this
■ould not have been
lawkins's squadron,
a negro flesh on the
is the very life and
a slavery, which ia
lulties and danger,
ssent for the nation
ted Ireland, where
ke a heart-rending
lent,
other thing which

and which seemed
ling away strangers
had passed a most
h every person who
»ay two dolUirs, and
rom it. It is called
ian who leaves or
iglishman too, pays

are for Triaidad, I

aer for Demerara,

nearly stranded on

b loss of time to the

FOURTH JOURNBT.

243

foreste in the interior. It was the dry season, which
renders a residence in the woods very delightful.

There are three species of jacamar to lie found on the
diflerent sand-hills and dry savannas of Demerara ; but
there is another much larger and far more beautiful to
be seen when you arrive in that part of the country
where there are rocks. The jacamar has no
The Ji.cai.iar. ^^^^j^y ^^ jjjg ^owlpecker or king-fisher

(notwithstanding what travellers affirm), either in its
haunts or anatomy. The jacamar lives entirely on
insects, but never goes in search of them. It sits
patiently for hours together on the branch of a tree,
and when the incautious insect approaches, it flies at it
with the rapidity of an arrow, seizes it, and genarally
returns to eat it on the branch which it had just quitted.
It has not the least attempt at song, is very solitary,
and so tame, that you may get wi^liin three or four
yards of it before it takes flight. The males of all
the different species which I have examined have white
feathers on the throat. I suspect that all the male
jacamars hitherto discovered have this distinctive mark.
I could learn nothing of its incubation. The Indians
informed me that one species of jacamar lays its eggs
in the wood-ants' nests, which are so frequent in the
trees of Guiana, and appear like huge black balls. I
wish there had been proof positive of this ; but the
breeding time was over ; aud in the ants' nests which
I examined I could find no marks of birds having ever
been in them. Early in January the jacamar is in fine
plumage for the cabinet of the naturalist. The largest
species measures ten inches and a half from the point
of the beak to the end of the tail ; its name amongst
the Indians is Una-waya-adoucati, that is, grandfather

r2

BS^S£B'^^^¥^?!t

344

WANDKRINOS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

toeo'siotir of examining the three-toed Sloth.

of the jacaniar. It is certainly a splendid bird ; and in
tlio brilliancy and changeableness of its mofallic colourp,
it yields to none of the Asiatic and Afhcan fenthnrtHl
tribe. The colours of the female are nearly as bright
ns those of the male, but she wants the white feathers
on the throat. The large jacamar is pretty common
about two hundred miles up the river Demerara.

Here I had a fine opportunity once more

He was

in the hoiise with me for a day or two.
Had I taken a description of him as he lay sprawling
on the floor, I should have misled the world, and
injured natural history. On the grouad be appeared
really a bungled composition, and faulty at all points ;
awkwardness and misery were depicted on his counte-
nance ; and when I made liim advance he sighed as
though in pain. Perhaps it was, that by seeing him
thus, out of his element as it were, that the Count
de Buffon, in his history of the sloth, asks the question
— " Why should not some animals be created for
misery, since, in the human species, the greatest number
cf individuals are devoted to pain from the moment of
their exist«nce ? " Were the question put to me, I
would answer, I cannot conceive that any of them are
created for misery. That thousands live in misery there
can be. no doubt ; but then, misery has overtaken them
in their path through life, and wherever man has come
up with them, I should suppose they have seldom
escaped from experiencing a certain proportion of
misery.

After fully satisfying myself that it only leads the
world into error to describe the sloth while he is on
ihe ground, or in any place except in a tree, I carried-

iHW

a

MEniOA.

ondid bird ; and in
its mohallic colourc,
i Afhcan fentlinnHl
re nearly as bright
the whitfl feathers
is pretty common
r Demerara.
irtunity once more
led Sloth. He was
br a day or two.
18 he lay sprawling
id the world, and
rouad he appeared
kulty at all points ;
:ted on his counte-
ance he sighed as
bat by seeing him
e, that the Count
, asks the question
Is be created for
he greatest number
xjm the moment of
tiou put to me, I
it any of them are
ive in misery there
as overtaken them
3ver man has come
they have seldom
*in proportion of

it only leads the
ith while he is on
in a tree, I carried-

FOURTII JOUBNET.

245

the one I had in fny possession to his native haunts.
As soon 08 ho came in contact with the branch of a
tree, all wont right with him. I could see, as he
.;limbed up into his own country, that he was on the
right road to happiness ; and felt persuaded more thiui
over that the world has hitherto erred Ls conjec-
tures concerning the sloth, on account of naturalists not
having given a description of him when ho was in the
only position in which he ought to have been described,
namely, clinging to the branch of a tree.

As the appearance of this part of the country bears
groat resemblantio to Cayenne, and is so near to it, I
was in hopes to have found the Grande Gobe Mouche
of Buifon, and the septicoloured Tangara, both of which
are ommon in Cayenne; but after many diligent
searches, I did not succeed ; noj could I learn from the
Indians that they had ever seen those two species of

bJida in these parta.

Here I procured the Grossbeak, with a

rich scarlet body, and blac}c head and throat.

Butfon mentions it as coming from America.
I had been in quest of it for years, but could never see
it, and concluded that it was not to be found in Deme-
rara. This bird is of a greenish brown before it acquires

its rich plumage.

Amongst the bare roots of the trees, along-
iHS<^""^cie8 side of this part of the river, a red crab

111" Owl

sometimes makes its appearance, as you are
passing up and down. It is preyed upon by a large
species of owl, which I was fortunate enough to procure.
Its head, back, wings, and tail, are of so dark a brown,
as almost to appear black. The breast is of a some-
what lighter brown. The belly ai^l thighs are of a

Tlie Grose
beak.

240

WANDF.niNOS IN HOUTII AMEIUCA.

The Sun-blnl.

dirty ytillow wliito. The fonthors round the eyoB are
of the saiiio dark brown as the rust of the body ; and
then conicH a circle of white, which haa much tlio
apiJoaranco of the rim of a largo pair of spectacles. I
strongly suspect that the dirty yellow white of the
belly nnd thighs has originally been pure white ; aiul
tliat it has come to its present colour by means of the
bird darting down upon its prey in the mud. Uut this
is more conjecture.

Here too, close to the river, I frequently
saw the bird called Sun-bird by the English
colonists, and Tirana by the Spaniards in the Oroonoquo.
It is very elegant ; and in its outwanl appearance ajt-
proachos near to the heron tribe ; still it does not live
upon fish. Flies and insects are its food ; and it takes
tliem just 08 the heron takes fish, by approaching near
and then striking with its beak at its prey, so quick,
that it has no chance to escape. The beautiful mixture
of gioy, yellow, green, black, white, and chestnut in
tlio plunmgo of tljis bird, baffles any attempt to give a
description of the distribution of them which would be
satisfactory to the reader.

There is something remarkable in the
Tinamcm™" great Tinamou, which I suspect has hitherto
escaped notice. It invariably roosts in trees ;
but the foot are so very small in proportion to the body
of this bulky bird, that they can be of no use to it in
grasping the branch ; and, moreover, the hind toe is so
short, that it does not touch the ground when the bird
is walking. The back part of the leg, just below the
knee, is quite flat, and somewhat concave. On it are
strong pointed scales, which are very rough, and catch
your finger as you move it along from the knee to the

MEIIICA.

round the ejm nro
; of tho body ; and
liiuh lias much the
ir of gpcctacleg. I
How white of tho
n pure white ; and
ur by means of tho
the mud. liut tliiH

river, I frequently
)ird by the En},dish
i in the Oroonoque.
aril appearance ap-
till it does not live
food ; and it tnkns
Y approaching near
its prey, so quick,
) beautiful mixture
), and chestnut in
r attempt to give a
m which would be

emarkable in the
ispect has hitherto
bly roosts in trees ;
ortion to the body
of no use to it in
the hind toe is so
nd when the bird
3g, just below the
ncave. On it are
' rough, and catch
m the knee to tho

PODBTH JOUBNRY.

too. Now, by moans of thoso scales, and the particular
HatnoBs of that part of the log, tho bird is enabled to
sleep in safety upon tho branch of a tree.

At tho close of day, tho groat Tin.iniou gives a loud,
monotonous, plaintive wluHtle, and then inmiodiately
springs into tho tree. By the light of the full moon,
the vigilant and cautious naturaliHt may see him sitting
in the iiosition already doacribed.

Tho small Tinainou has nothinr- thot can

Tiin Himii 1^ jj^iie^ a tpi. It never lays more than

one egg, whi<'.. is of a chocolate c-lour. It

makes no nest, but merely scratches a little hollow in

tho sand, generally at the foot o( a tree

Here wo have an insta. ije of a >-'d, the size of n
iwrtridge, and of the same tribe, laying only ' i.i' egg,
while the rest of the family, from the per^^" o the
quail, are known to lay a considerable nui bit. The
foot of this bird is very small in ,... i>ortion, but the
back part of the leg bears no re en b -nee to that of
the larger tinamou; hence one might conclude that it
sleeps upon the ground.

Independent of the hollow trees, f.he vampires have
another hiding-place. They clear out the inside of the
krge ants' nests, and then take r -ssession of the shell.
I had gone about half a day down the river, to a part
of the forest where the wallaba-trees were in great
plenty. The seeds had ripened, and I was in hopes to
have got the large scarlet ara, which feeds on them.
But, unfortunately, the time had passed away, and the
seeds had fallen.

While langin^ J";, in the forest, we stopped under
an ants' nest ; and, by the dirt below, conjectured that
it had got new tenants. Thinking it no harm to dis-

248

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

lodge them, " vi et armis," an Indian boy ascended the
tree ; but, before he reached the nest, out flew above a
dozen vampires.

The Vampire. ^ ^'^^^ formerly remarked that I wished
to have it in my power to say, that I had
been sucked by the Vampire. I gave them many an
opportunity, but they always fought shy ; and though
they now sucked a young man of the Indian breed very
severely, as he was sleeping in his hammock in the
shed next to mine, they would have nothing to do
with me. His great toe seemed to have all the attrac-
tions. I examined it minutely as he was bathing it in
the river at daybreak. The midnight surgeon had
made a hole in it, abnost of a triangular shape, and the
blood was then running from it apace. His hammock
was so defiled and stained with clotted blood, that he
was obliged to beg an old black woman to wash it. As
she was taking it down to the river side, she spread it
out before me, and shook her head. I remarked, that
I supposed her own toe was too old and tough to invite
the Vampire-doctor to get his supper out of it ; and she
answered, with a grin, that doctors generally preferred
young people.

Nobody has yet been able to inform me how it is
that the vampire manages to draw such a large quantity
of blood, generally from the toe; and the patient, aU
the time, remains in a profound sleep. I have never
heard of an instance of a man waking under the opera-
tion. On the contrary, he continues in a sound sleep,
and at the time of rising, his eyes first inform him, that
there has been a thirsty thief on his toe.
lu teeth. The teeth of the vampire are very sharp,
and not unlike thosa of a rat. If it be that.

-—ate

IMERICA.

II boy ascended the
it, out flew above a

ked that I wished
to say, that I had
ive them many an

shy; and though
Indian breed very
I hammock in the
ive nothing to do
lave all the attrac-
5 was bathing it in
ight surgeon had
liar shape, and the
e. His hammock
^d blood, that he
an to wash it. As
side, she spread it

I remarked, that
id tough to invite
)ut of it ; and she
enerally preferred

inn me how it is
h a large quantity
id the patient, all
p. I have never
under the opera-
in a sound sleep,
inform him, that
)e.

•e are very sharp,
it. If it be that.

FOURTH JOURNET.

249

he inflicts the wound with his teeth (and he seems to
have no other instruments), one would suppose that
the acuteness of the pain would cause the person who
is sucked, to awake. We are in darkness in this
matter; and I know of no means by which one might
be enabled to throw light upon it. It is to be hoped
that some future wanderer through the wilds of
Guiana will be more fortunate than I have been, and
catch this nocturnal depredator in the fact. I
have once before mentioned that I killed a vampire
which measured thirty-two inches from wing to wing
extended ; but others, which I have since examined,
have generally been from twenty to twenty-six inches
in dimension.

The large humming-bird, called by the Indians Kara-

bimiti, invariably builds its nest in the
The Kara- slender branches of the trees which hang

over the rivers and creeks. In appearance,
it is like brown tanned leather, without any particle of
lining. The rim of the nest is doubled inwards, and I
always conjectured that it had taken this shape on ac-
count of the body of the bird pressing against it while
she was laying her eggs. But this was quite a wrong
conjectvire. Instinct has taught the bird to give it this
shap6, in order that the eggs may be prevented from
rolling out.

The trees on the river's bank are particularly exposed
to violent gusts of wind, and while I have been sitting
in the canoe, and looking on, I have seen the slender
branch of the tree which held the humming-bird's nest
so violently shaken, that the bottom of the inside of
the nest has appeared, and had thei-e been nothing at
the rim to stop the eggs, they must inevitably have

250

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

HoDkeyg.

been jerked out into the water. I suspect the humming-
biixl never lays more than two eggs. I never found
more than two in any of the many nests which have
come in my way. The eggs were always white, with-
out any spots on them.

Probably travellers have erred in asserting that the
monkeys of South America throw sticks and
fruit at their pursuers. I have had fine op-
portunities of narrowly watching the diiferent species
of monkeys which are found in the wilds, betwixt the
Amazons and the Oroouoque. Z entirely acquit them
of acting on the offensive. When the monkeys are in
the high ti-ees over your head, the dead branches will
now and then fall down upon you, having L'^en broken
off as the monkeys pass along them; but they axe never
hurled from their hands.

Monkeys, commonly so called, both in the
of Moukoyl*' old and new continent, may be classed into
three grand divisions ; namely, the ape,
which has no tail whatever ; the baboon, which has
only a short tail ; and the monkey, which has a long
tail. There are no apes, and no baboons as yet dis-
covered in the 2few World. Its monkeys may be very
well and very briefly ranged under two heads; namely,
those with haiiy and bushy tails ; and those whose
tails are bare of hair underneath, about six inches from
the extremity. Those with hairy and bushy tails climb
just like the squirrel, and make no use of the tail to
help them &om branch to branch. Those which have
the tail bare underneath towards the end, find it of
infinite advantage to them, in their ascent and descent.
They apply to the branch of the tree, as though it were
a supple finger, and frequently swing by it from the

bran<

the

natui

The In
Monke
muran

soun
Whi
imm
from
supp
colle
trem
prey
grov
forc(
am(

Si
80UI

and

red

capt

misi

satii

as li

lum

darl

rain

and

hav

iMppi

tlERIOA.

)ect the hummmg-
3. I never found
nesta which have
[ways white, with-

asserting that the
a throw sticks and
'. have had fine op-
le ditferent species
wilds, betwixt the
tirely acquit them
he monkeys are in
lead branches will
aving L^en broken
but they are never

called, both in the
ay be classed into
namely, the ape,
aboon, which has
which has a long
aboons as yet dis-
okeys may be very
(vo heads; namely,

and those whose
tut six inches from
I bushy tails climb

use of the tail to
Those which have
be end, find it of
iscent and descent.
I, as though it were
ng by it from the

FOURTH JOURNET.

251

branch like the pendulum of a clock. It answers all
the purposes of a fifth hand to the monkey, as
naturalists have already observed.

The large red monkey of Demerara is not-
MonkeJrfSf- a baboon, though it goes by that name,
morara. haying a loug preusile tail* Nothing can

sound more dreadful than its nocturnal hcwlings.
While lying in your hammock in these gloomy and
immeasurable wilds, you hear him howling at intervals,
from eleven o'clock at night till daybreak. You would
suppose that half the wild beasts of the forest were
collecting for *Lc T"ork of carnage. Now, it is the
tremendous roar of the jaguar, as he springs ou his
prey j now, it changes to his terrible and deep toned
growlings, as he is pressed on all sides by superior
force ; and now, you hear his last dying moan, beneath
a mortal wound.

Some naturalists have supposed that these awful
sounds, which you would fancy are those of enraged
and dying wild beasts, proceed from a number of the
red monkeys howling in concert. One of them alone is
capable of producing all. these sounds ; and the anato-
mist, on an inspection of the trachea, will be fully
satisfied that this is the case. When you look at him,
»8 he is sitting on the branch of a tree, you will see a
lump in his throat, the size of a large hen's egg. In
dark and cloudy weather, and just before a squall of
rain, this monkey will often howl in the day-time;
and if you advance cautiously, and get under the
high and tufted tree where he is sittin'?, you may
have a capital opportunity of witnessing bin wonderful

• T beUeve prtmiU is » new-coined word. I have seen it, but do not
remember where.

I

263

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

powers of producing these dreadful and discordant
sounds.

His flesh is good food; but when skinned,

Flesh of the v- • i-i xu i />

Monkey. his appearance is so hke that of a young

one of our own species, that a delicate

stomach might possibly revolt at the idea of putting a

knife and fork into it However, I can affirm, from

xperience, that after a long and dreary march through

lese remote forests, the flesh of this monkey is not

to be sneezed at, when boiled in Cayenne pepper,

or roasted on a stick over a good fire. A young one

tastes not unlike kid, and the old ones have somewhat

the flavour of he-goat.

I mentioned, in a former adventure, that I had hit
upon an entirely new plan of making the skins of quad-
rupeds retain their exact form and feature. Intense
application to the subject has, since that period, enabled
me to shorten the process, and hit the character of an
animal to a very great nicety, even to the preservation
of the pouting lip, dimples, warts, and wrinkles on the
face. I got a fine specimen of the howling monkey,
and took some pains with it, in order to show the im-
mense diflerence that exists betwixt the features of this
monkey and those of man.

I also procured an animal which has caused not a
little speculation and astonishment. In my opinion,
his thick coat of hair, and great leng-th of tail, put his
species out of all question ; but then, his face and head
cause the inspector to pause for a moment, before he
ventures to pronoimce his opinion of the classification.
He was a large animal, and as I was pressed for day-
light, and, moreover, . It no inclination to have the
whole weight of his body upon my back, I contented

mys(

and

since

had

sayii

whi(

to U'

T
cast
sho^
Som
his
feat
and
min
of 1
nan
at (
hap
"V

I
spe

SW8

Stil
out
ent
ger
ant
tha
uni

Esq
null
like

11

VMI

IMERICA.

ful and discordant

but when skinned,
e that of a young
18, that a delicate
e idea of putting a

I can affirm, from
eary march through
his monkey is not
I Cayenne pepper,
fire. A young one
nes have somewhat

ire, that I had hit
; the skins of quad-
l feature. Intense
)hat period, enabled
the character of an
to the preservation
nd wrinkles on the
I howling monkey,
ler to show the im-
the features of this

I has caused not a
In my opinion,
gth of tail, put his
1, his face and head
moment, before he
F the classification,
is pressed for day-
lation to have the
' back, I contented

FOURTH JOUBNET.

253

myself with his head and shoulders, which I cut off :
and have brought them with me to Europe.* I have
since four vhat I acted quite right in doing so, having
had enough to answer for. The head alone, without
saying anything of his hands and feet, and of his tail,
which is an appendage. Lord Karnes asserts, belongs

to us.

The features of this animal are quite of the Grecian
cast; and he has a placidity of countenance which
shows that things went well with him when in life.
Some gentlemen of great skill and talent, on inspecting
his head, were convinced that the whole series of its
features has been changed. Others again have hesitated,
and betrayed doubts, not being able to make up their
minds, whether it be possible that the brute features
of the monkey can be changed into the noble counte-
nance of man.—" Scinditur vulgus." One might argue
at considerable length on this novel subject : and per-
haps, after all, produce little more than prolix pedantry.
" Vox et prffiterea nihil"

Let us suppose for an instant that it is a new
species. W»ll; "Unagolondrinanohace verano;" One
swallow does not make summer, as Sancho Panza says.
Still, for all that, it would be weU worth while going
out to search for it ; and these times of Pasco-Peruvian
enterprise are iavourable to the undertaking. Perhaps,
gentle reader, you would wish me to go in quest of
another. I would beg leave respectfully to answer,
that the way is dubious, long, and dreary; and though,
unfortunately, I cannot allege the excuse of " me pia

• My yontiK friend, Mr. J. H. Foljambe, eldest son of Th"mas FoUamVe,
Esa of Wakefield, has made a drawing of the head and ahouldere of this
niUinal (see Frontispiece), and it is certainly a most correct and striking
likeness of the original.

Jl

m-

^i-TiUnflTMIt^.-.

254

WA.XDERINOS IN SOUTH AHERIO&.

conjux dotinet," still I would fain crave a little repose.
I have already been a long while errant : —

" Txinga miht exilla, et voitum mariH cRqunr aravl,
Me mandate milii, nam ego gum defesiiua agendo."

Should anybody be induced to go, great and innumer-
able ore the discoveries yet to be made in those remote
wilds ; and should he succeed in bringing home, even
a head alone, with features as perfect as those of that
which I have brought, far from being envious of him, I
should consider him a modern Alcides, fully entitled to
register a thirteenth labour. "Now if, on the other
hand, we argue, that this head in question has had all
its original features destroyed, and a set of new ones
given to it, by what means has this hitherto unheard-
of change been effected? Nobody in any of our
museums has yet been able to restore the natural
features to stuifcd animals ; and he who has any doubts
of thin, let him take a living cat or dog and compare
them with a stuffed cat or dog in any of the first-rate
museums. A momentary glance of the eye would soon
settle his doubts on this head.

If I have succeeded in effacing the features of a
brute, and putting those of a man in their place, we
might be entitled to say that the sun of Proteus has
risen to our museums : —

" UniuR hlc faclem, fades transformat in omnes ;
Nunc homo, nune tigrig ; nunc eqta, nunc muUer."

If I have effected this, we can now give to one side
of the skin of a man's face the appearance of eighty
years, and to the other side that of blooming seventeen.
We could make the forehead and eyes serene in youth-
ful beauty, and shape the mouth and jaws to the
features of a malicious old ape. Here is a new field

opei
ralis
weai
allej

pee]

Gui

bab

(In

lon(

tell

hea'

I

reaf

Ess

of,

Th(

and

ce&

]

mil

fou

rot

bai

hei

tho

th(

are

thi

un

*«*^S!jW;^S»?^^«!»>«i>^l**!SiS!d^*Ss

f

J^

irave a little repose,
■ant : —

Bpquor aravf,
'esHiu agendo."

great and innumer-
ade in those remote
•ringing home, even
ict as those of that
ig envious of him, I
[es, fully entitled to
w if, on the other
iiestion has had all
[ a set of new ones
3 hitherto unheard-
ly in any of our
restore the natural
nrho has any doubts
r dog and compare
iny of the first-rate
the eye would soon

', the features of a

in their place, we

sun of Proteus has

in omnes ;
, nunc niuUer."

ow give to one side
)peaTance of eighty
)looming seventeen,
res serene in youth-
1 and jaws to the
lere is a new field

FOUI.TH JOURNEY.

2C5

opened to the adventurous and experimental natu-
ralist : I have trodden it up and down till I am almost
weary. To get at it myself I have groped through an
alley, which may be styled, in the words of Ovid, —

" Arduus, obliquM, callglne densas opaca."

I pray thee, gentle reader, let me out awhile. Time
passes on apace ; and I want to take thee to have a
peep at the spots where mines are supposed to exist in
Guiana. As the story of this singular head has, pro-
bably, not been made out to thy satisfaction, perhaps
(I may say it nearly in Corporal Trim's words) on some
long and dismal winter's evening, but not now, I may
tell thee more about it ; together with that of another
head, which is equally striking.

It is commonly reported, and I think there is no
reason to doubt the fact, that when Demerara and
Essequibo were under the Dutch flag, there were mines
of gold and silver opened near to the river Essequibo.
The miners were not successful in their undertaking,
and it is generally conjectured that their failure pro-
ceeded from inexperience.

Now, when you ascend the Essequibo, some hundred
miles above the place where these mines are said to be
found, you get into a high, ropky, and mountainous
country. Here many of the mountains have a very
barren aspect, producing only a few stinted shrubs, and
hero and there a tuft of coarse grass. I could not learn
that they have ever been explored, and at this day
their mineralogy is totally unknown to us. Tlie Indians
are so thinly scattered in this part of the country,
that theve would be no impropriety in calling it
uninhabited : —

" Apparent rnri errantes in gurgite vosto."

*mv,linifcwiwlliniw

256

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

!'• <l

It romains to be yet loarnt, Mrhether this portion of
Guiana be worth looking after, with respect to its
supposed mines. The mining speculations at present
are flowing down another channel. The rage in
England for working the mines of other states has
now risen to such a pitch, that it would require a
considerable degree of caution in a mere wanderer
of the woods in stepping forward to say anything
that might tend to raise or depress the spirits of the
speculators.

A question or two, however, might be asked. When
the revolted colonies shall have repaired in some
measure the ravages of war, and settled their own
political economy upon a firm foundation, will they
quietly submit to see foreigners carrying away those
treasures which are absolutely part of their own soil, and
which necessity (necessity has no law) forced them to
barter away in their hour of need 1 Now, if it should
so happen that the masters of the country begin to re-
pent of their bargain, and become envious of the riches
which foreigners carry ofi", many a teasing law might
be made, and many a vexatious enaction might be put
in force, that would, in all probability, bring the specu-
lators into trouble and disappointment

Besides this consideration, there is another circum-
stance which ought not to be overlooked. I allude to
the change of masters throughout nearly the whole of
America. It it. a curious subject for the European
philosopher to moralize upon, and for the politician to
examine. The more they consider it, the more they
will be astonished. If we may judge by what has
already taken place, we are entitled to predict that, in
a very few years more, no European banner will be

AMERICA.

ther this portion of
ivith respect to its
:ulations at present
lel. The rage in
if other states has
it would require a
I a mere wanderer
'd to say anything
js the spirits of the

bt he asked. When
repaired in some

settled their own
mdation, will they
arrying away those
f their own soil, and
law) forced them to
Now, if it should
country begin to re-
nvious of the riches

teasing law might
action might be put
ity, bring the specu-
ent.

is another circum-
iooked. I allude to
nearly the whole of
I for the European
for the politician to
r it, the more they
judge by what has
L to predict that, in
ean banner will be

"I.J I. imiPi

FOURTH JOURNEY.

257
Lot us

seen to float in any part of the Now World,
take a cursory view of it.

England, some years ago, possessed a large portion
of the present United States ; Franco had Louisiana ;
Spain held the Floridas, Mexico, Darien, Terra Firma,
Buonos Ayros, Paraguay, Chili, Peru, uud Califoiaia ;
and Portugal ruled the whole of Brazil All these
immense regions are now independent states. England,
to be sure, still has Canada, Nova Scotia, and a few
creeks on the coast of Labrador ; also a small settle-
ment in Hondurap, and the wilds of Demerara and
Esaequibo ; and these are all. France has not a foot
of ground, except the forests of Cayenne. Portugal has
lost every province ; Spain is blockaded in nearly her
last citadel ; and the Dutch flag is only seen in Surinam.
Nothing more now remains in Europe of this immense
continent, where, but a very few years ago, she reigned
triumphant

With regard to the West India Islands, they may
be considered as the mere outposts of tliis mammoth
domain. St. Domingo has already shaken off her old
masters, and become a star of observation to the rest
of the sable brethren. The anti-slavery associations of
England, full of benevolence and activity, have opened
a tremendous battery upon the last remaining forts
which the lords of the old continent still hold in the
New World, and, in all probability, will not cease firing
till they shall have caused the last flag to be struck of
Europe's late mighty empire in the transatlantic regions.
It cannot well be doubted, but that the sable hordes in
the West Indies will like to follow good example, when-
ever they shall have it in their power to do so.

Now, with St Dciiingo us an example before them,
s

Hii

mtmm

■■HHIW

208

WANDERINGS IN 86OTH AMRIIICA.

mv

w» '

how long will it bo biforo they try to raise thomaelves
into iu(lo{)onilont states ? And if they should suoceed
in crushing us in those our last ronminuig tonoments, I
would bet ten to one that none of the new governmontH
will put on mourning fui our departure out of the New
World. We must well remember that our own govorn-
ment wob taxed with injustice and oppression by the
United States during their great striiggle; and the
IJritish press for years past has, and is still teeming
with every kind of abuse and unbecoming sotiro agaiuMt
Spain und Portugal, for their conduct towards the now
revolted colonies.

France also comes in for her share of obloquy. Now,
tliis being the case, will not America at large wish most
devoutly for the day to come when Europe shall have
no more dominion over her ? Will she not say to us,
" Our new forms of government are very diiferont from
your old ones 1 We will trade with you ; but we shall
always be very suspicious of you, as long as you retain
posKossion of the \A'"st Indies, wliich are, as we may
say, close to our door-steads. You must be very cautious
how you interfere with our politics ; fo , if we And you
meddling with them, and by that means cause us to
come to loggerheads, v/e shall be obliged to send you
back to your own homes, three or four Diousand miles
across the Atlantic; and then, with that great ditch
betwixt us, we may hope we shall be good friends."
He who casts his eye on the East Indies, will there see
quite a different state of things. The conquered dis-
tricts have merely changed one European master for
another; and I believe there is no instance of any
portion of the East Indies throwing off the yoke of the
Europeans, and establishing a government of their own.

AMEniCA.

to raise tliomselves
hey should aucceed
iiiniiig tonoments, I
le new govcrnmentH
tiro out of the Now
lat our own govorn-
, oppression by the
struggle ; and the
nd is still teoming
oming satire agaiuHt
ct towards the now

i of obloquy. Now,
I at large winli most

Europe shall have
1 she not say to us,
very dilforont from
1 you ; but we shall
3 long as you retain
ch are, as we may
ust be very cautious

for, if we And you
means cause us to
bliged to send you
bur tliousand miles
th that great ditch
1 be good friends."
tidies, will there see
The conquered dis-
iuropean master for
10 instance of any
; off the yoke of the
ument of their own.

FOURTH JOURNKT.

2fl0

Ye who are vci-scd in politics, and study the rise and
fall of empinm, and know wluit is good for civili/ed
man, and what is bad for him,— or, in other words,
what will makt! him happy, and what will make b.im
misomble,— tell us how comes it tliat Pairope has lost
almost hi'r lu«t mvo in the boundliHS expanse of ter-
ritory which Hho 80 ' !y possessud in tho West, luul
still cuntrives to iiold hor vast property in the extennive
regions of the Enst t

But whilhca- am I goinst I find myself on a new
and dangerous jiuth. I'ardon, gentle reader, this sudden
deviation. Methinks I hear thee saying to mo,—

"Tiamlte quo t«ii(lU, mnjoraque vlrlbiis nuilei."

I grant that I have erred, but L will do so no more. In
general I avoid politics; they are too heavy for me,
and I am aware that thoy hava caused tlie fall of many
a strong and able man : they require the shoulders of
Atlas to support their weight.

When I was in the rocky mountains of Macoushia, in
cocksof the tliP month of June, 1812, I saw four young
^*^^ Cocks of the Rock in an Indian's hut j they

had been taken out of the nest that week. They wore
of a uniform dirty brown colour, and by the position of
the young feathers upon the head, you might see that
there would be a crest there when the bird arrived at
maturity. By seeing young ones in the month of June,
I innnediately concluded that the old cock of the rock
would be in fine plumage from the end of November to
the beginning of Slay ; and that the naturalist who was
in quest of specimens for his museum ought to arrange
his plans in such a manner as to bu able to get into
Macourihia during these months. However, I find now

b2

il

S60

WANDEBINOB IN BOUTH AMERICA.

tlmt no exact period can bo fixod ; for in December,
\8'2i, an Iiuliaii in the river Deiuurara giivo mo a young
cook of the rock not a month old, and it had just been
brouKht from the MncouHhi country. ]{y having a
young Hpocimen at this time of the year, it puts it out
of one's power to say at what precise time the ohl birds
ai'o in full plumage. I took it on board a ship with mo
for England ; but it was so very susceptible of cold,
that it shivorod ond died, three days after wo had
passed Antigua.

If over there 8ho>:ld be a great demand for large sup-
lu.Uanrub. pl'^* "^ gum-elastic, commonly called Indian-
'"■'■ rubber, it may be jirocured in abundance far

away in the wilds of Dwmerara and Essequibo.

Home years ago, when I was in the Macoushi country,
All iiiiiiun *li"''^ w**^ * capital trick played upon me
*'''=''• about Indian-rubber. It is almost too good

to be left out of these Wanderings, and it shows that the
wild and uneducated Indian is not without abilities.
Weary and sick, and feeble through loss of blood, I
arrived at some Indian huts, which were about two
hours distant from the place where the gum-clastic trees
grew. After a day and a night's rest, I went to them,
and with my own bonds made a fine ball of pure Indian-
rubber ; it hardened immediately as it became exposed
to the air, and its elasticity was almost incredible.

While procuring it, exposure to the rain, which, fell
in torrents, brought on a return of inflammation in the
stomach, and I was obliged to have recourse again to
the lancet, and to use it with an unsparing hand. I
wanted another ball, but was not in a state the next
morning to proceed to the trees. A fine interesting
young Indian, observmg my eagerness to have it, ten-

den
for
(
vor;
ith
Invl
an
his
to
rep
yoi
Ir
dft]
lit
on
a
li
lit

gr
Tl
ht

bi
la
hi
fi
b

P
a

t:

a
I

lMERICA.

; for in Docember,
rii t,'iivo mo a young
ml it had just been
try. ]5y having a
your, it })UtH it out
3 timo the oUl birds
tarJ a ship with me
suBciiptible of coW,
days after wo had

mand for large sup-
rionly called Indian-
od in abundance fat
Essequibo.
3 Macoushi country,
ik played upon me
t is almost too good
nd it showd that the
t without abilities.
Ijh loss of blood, I
ch were about two
he gum-clastic trees
est, I went to ihom,
ball of pure Indian-
,s it became exposed
aost incredible,
the rain, which fell
inflammation in the
ve recourse again to
unsparing hand. I
in a state the next
A fine interesting
ness to have it, teu-

rOCRTH JOUBNKT.

2fll

dorod his servicoH, and asked two handfuls of flnh-hooks
for liis troublii.

Oil' he wont, ami, to my great surprise, returned in a
very sliort timo. Hearing in mind the trouble and timo
it had cost mo to iii:d:« a ball, I could account for this
Indian's oxpeditiou in no other way, except that, ])i'iug
an inhabitivnt of the fori'st, ho know how to go about .
his work in a much shorter way than I did. His ball,
to bo sure, had very little olascicity in it. I tried it
repeatedly, but it never rebounded a yard high. Tho
young Indian watched me with great gravity ; and when
I made him understand that I expected the ball would
dance better, ho called anothiu- Indian, who knew a
littlo English, to assure me that I might bo quite easy
on that score. The young rogue, in order to render me
a complete dupe, brought the new moon io Ids aid.
He gave mo to understand that tho ball was like tlie
little moon, which he pointed to, and by tho time it
grew big and old, tlie ball would bounce beautifully.
This satisfied me, and I gave him the fish-hooks, which
he received without tho least change of countenance.

I bounced the ball repeatedly for two months after,
but I found that it still remained in its infancy. At
last I suspected that the savage (to use a vulgar phrase)
had come Yorkshire over me, and so I determined to
find out how he had managed to take me in. I cut the
ball in two, and then saw what a taut trick he had
played me. It seems he had chewed some leaves into
a lump, the size of a walnut, and then dipped them in
the liquid gum-elastic. It immediately received a coat
about as thick as a sixpence. He then rolled some
more leaves round it, and gave it another coat. He
seems to have continued this process, till he had made

292

WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA.

the ball considerably larger than the one I had pro-
cured; and, in order to put his roguery out of all
chance of detection, he made the last and outer coat
thicker than a dollar. This Indian would, no doubt,
have thiiven well in some of our great towns.

Finding that the rainy season was coming on, I left

. Returns home ^^^ "^'^^^ °^ I>emerara and Esaequibo with

to England. regret, towards the close of December, 1824,

and reached once more the shores of England, after a

long and unpleasant passage.

Ere we part, kind reader, I could wish to draw a
conoiudi ^^^^^^ °^ *^y attention to the instructions
remarks. which are to be found at the end of this

book. Twenty years have now rolled away since I
first began to examine the specimens of zoology in our
museums. As the system of preparation is founded in
error, nothing but deformity, distortion, and dispro-
portion will be the result of the best intentions and
utmost exertions of the workman. Canova's education,
taste, and genius enabled him to present to the world
statues 80 correct and beautiful, that they are worthy
of universal admiration. Had a common stone-cutter
tried his hand upon the block out of which these statues
were sculptured, what a lamentable want of symmetry
and fine countenance there would have been ! Now,
when we reflect that the preserved specimens in, our
museums and private collections are always done upon
a wrong principle, and generally by low and illiterate
people, whose daily bread depends upon the shortness
of time in which they can get through their work— and
whose opposition to the true way of preserving spe-
cimens can only be surpassed by their obstinacy in
adhering to the old method,— can we any longer wonder

atti
pro(
com
tion
whi
the

^^:

MERIOA.

le one I had pro-
oguery out of all
Eist and outer coat
. would, no doubt,
lat towns.

B coming on, I left
nd Easequibo with
of December, 1824,
at England, after a

Id wish to draw a
to the instructions

at the end of this
)lled away since I
s of zoology in our
ation is founded in
)rtion, and dispro-
)est intentions and
Danova's education,
iresent to the world
at they are worthy
immon stone-cutter
which these statues
1 want of symmetry
have been ! Now,
L specimens in, our

always done upon
r low and illiterate
upon the shortness
gh their work — and

of preserving spe-

their obstinacy in
! any longer wonder

1

FOURTH JOURKEY.

263

at their want of success, or hope to see a single specimen
produced that will be worth looking at ] With this 1
conclude, hoping that thou hast received some informa-
tion, and occasionally had a smile upon thy countenance,
while perusing these "Wanderings;" and begging, at
the same time, to add, that.

Well 1 know thy penetration

Many a stain and blot will see,
In the languid ibug narration

Of my sylvan eri'antry.

For the pen too oft was weary,

In the wandering writer's hand.
As he roved through deep and dreary

Forests, in a distant land.

Show thy mercy, gentle reader.

Let him not entreat in vain ;
It will be his strength's best feeder,

Should he ever go again.

And who knows how soon, complaining

Of a cold and wifeless home.
He may leave it, and again in

Eiiuatorial regions roam t ,

c. v\ .

j

Bti

ON

PHESEKVING BIRDS

CABINETS OF NATURAL HISTORY.

Week you to pay as much attention to birds as the
sculptor does to the human frame, you would imme-
diately see, on entering a museum, that the specimens
are not well done.

This remark will not he thought severe, when you
reflect that,— that which once was a bird has probably
been stretched, stufiFed, stiffened, and wired by the
hand of a common clown. Consider, likewise, how the
plumage must have been disordered by too much
stretching or drying, and perhaps sullied, or at least
deranged, by the pressure of a coarse and heavy hand,
—plumage which, ere life had fled from within it, was
accustomed to be touched by nothing rougher than the
dew of heaven, and the pure and gentle breath of air.
In dissecting, three things are necessary
Disgecting. ^ qj^^^ success, viz. a penknife, a hand not
coarse or clumsy, and practice. The first will furnish
you with the means, the second will enable you to
dissect, and the third cause you to dissect well. These
may be called the mere mechanical requisites.

lim
hoL
den
in1
waf
anc
cal]

R<

havi
kno
Orn

A.UI1

CU]

pa;
wc
do

sei

E
ecf
the
bir

ON PRESERVING BIRDS.

265

RDS

L HISTOKY.

ion to birds as the
you would imme-
that the specimens

it severe, when you
a bird has probably

and wired by the
r, likewise, how the
ered by too much

sullied, or at least
.rse and heavy hand,

from within it, was
ng rougher than the
entle breath of air.
things are necessary
penknife, a hand not
rhe first will furnish

will enable you to

dissect well. These
1 requisites.

In stuffing, you require cotton, a needle and thread,
a little stick, the size of a common knitting--
Btufflng. jjgg^jp^ gj^gg gyeg^ ft solutioH of corrosive sub-
limate, and any kind of a common temporary box to
hold the specimen. These also may go under the same
denomination as the former. But if you wish to excel
in the art, if you wish to be in ornithology what Angelo
was in sculpture, you must apply to profound study,
and your ov/n genius to assist you. And these may be
called the scientific requisites.

You must have a complete knowledge of
havoathorouKh ornithological anatomy. You must pay close
oraithoio^c^ attention to the form and attitude of the
Anatomy. ^.^^ ^^^ ^^^^ exactly the proportion each

curve. Of extension, or contraction, or expansion of any
particular part bears to the rest of the bo'Vy. In a
word, you must possess Promethean boldness, and bring
down fire, and animation, as it were, into your pre-
served specimen.

Eepair to the haunts of birds, on plains and moun-
Examinethe ta"is> treats, swamps, and lakes, and give
the"ordIre'^of "P V^^^ *™® *° examine the econoiuy of
birds. tjjg dilferent orders of birds.

Then you will place your eagle, in attitude commaix^-
ing, the same as Nelson stood in, in the day of battle,
on the Victory's qu£.i ie • deck. Your pie w'H eem
crafty, and just ready t- ': I'o fl^^nt, as though fearful
of being surprif'^ i :.^ som ■ .lisohiovous plunder. Your
sparrow will retam its ' oiitid i-ertness, by means of
placing his tail a litcL> elevated, and giving a moderate
arch to the neck. Your vulture v ill show his sluggish
habits, by havir.- 1, -i body nearly puallcl to the earth ;
his wings somrwhat drooping, and the^j extremities

^

266

ON FRGSERVINO BIRDS.

lender the tail, instead of above it, — expressive of
ignoble indolence.

Your dove will be in artless, fearless innocence ; look-
ing mildly at you, with its neck, not too much stretched,
as if uneasy in its situation ; or drawn too close into
the shoulders, like orie wishing to avoid a discovery ;
but in moderate, perpendicular length, supporting the
head horizontally, wlach will set ofif the breast to the
best advantage. And the breast ought to be conspi-
cuous, and have this attention paid to it : for when a
young lady is sweet and gentle in her manners, kind
and affable to those around her ; -k' ^n her eyes stand
in tears of pity for the woes of others, and she puts a
small portion of what Providence has blessed her with
into the hand of imploring poverty and hunger, then
we say, she has the breast of a turtle-dove.

You will observe how beautifully the fea-
thers of a bird are arranged ; one falb'ng
over the other in nicest order ; and that, where this
charming harmony is interrupted, the defect, though
not noticed by an ordinary spectator, will appear im-
mediately to the eye of a naturalist. Thus, a bird not
wounded, and in perfect feather, must be procured if
possible ; for the loss of feathers can seldom be made
good ; and where the deficiency is great, all the skill of
the artist will avail him little in his attempt to coucoal
the defect ; because, in order to hide it, he must con-
tract the skin, bring down the upper feathers, and
shove in the lower ones, which woulrl throw all the
surrounding parts into contortion.

You will also observe, thtt the whole of the skin
does not produce feathers, and that it is very tender
where the feathers do not grow. The bare parts are

The feathers.

admi

stem

body

won(

you

thesi

symi

Y

bird

succ

Y

moi

whi(

seasi

into

the

becc

and

ham

claii

and

plui

\

gres

abk

1

bod

the

hori

Cot

I

the

tho

I

I)S. .

it, — expressive of

ss innocence ; look-
too much stretched,
awn too close into
avoid a discovery;
jth, supporting the
F the breast to the
ught to be conspi-
. to it : for when a
her manners, kind
in her eyes stand
ers, and she puts a
is blessed her with
J and hunger, then
3-dove.

beautifullj' the fea-
mged ; one falbng
i that, where this
the defect, though
)r, will appear im-
Thus, a bird not
list be procured if
n seldom be made
eat, all the skill of
attempt to conccftl
e it, he must con-
)per feathers, and
•ulfl throw all the

ivhole of the skin
; it is very tender
Che bare parts are

ON PBBSERVING BIBD8.

2G7

m

admirably formed for expansion about the throat and.
stomach ; and they fit into the different cavities of t^je
body at the wings, shoulders, rump, and thighs, with
wonderful exactness; so that in stuifing the bird, if
you make an even rotund surface of the skin, where
these cavities existed, in lieu of reforming them, aU
symmetry, order, and proporticn are lost for ever.

You ni'^t lay it down as an absolute rule, that the
bird is to uo entirely skinned, otherwise you can never
succeed it. forming a true and pleasing specimen.

You mU allow this to be just, after reflecting a
moment on *^^he nature of the fleshy parts and tendons,
which are often left in : Ist, they require to be weU
seasoned with ai-omatic spices ; 2dly, they must be put
into the oven to dry ; 3dly, the heat of the fire, and
the np.tural tendency all cured flesh haa to shrink and
become hard, render the specimen withered, distorted,
and too small ; 4thly, the inside then becomes like a
ham, or any other dried meat. Ere long the insects
claim it as their own ; the feathers begin to drop ofi",
and you have the hideous sper^cle of death in ragged

plumage.

Wire is of no manner of use, but, c the contrary, a
great nuisance; lor where it is introduced, a disagree-
able stiffness and derangement of symmetry follow.

The head and neck can be placed in any attitude, the
body suppoited, the wings closed, extended, or elevated,
the tail depiesRod, raised, or expanded, the thighs set
horizontal or oblique, without any aid from wire.
Cotton will edeot all this.

A very small proportion of the skull bone, say, from
the. forepart of the eyes to the bill, is to be left in;
though even this is not absolutely necessary. Part of

„.... ■ »>J.i-«a.in.i-'iillilllv.Mlll

268

ON PRE8BRVIKG BIRD9.

I ft- il

the wing-bones, the jaw-bones, and half of the thigh-
bones, remain. Everything else, flesh, fat, eyes, bones,
brains, and tendons, are all to be taken away.

While dissecting, it will be of use to keep

reoSs™' '"■ in mind,— That, in taking ofl' the skm from

the body, by means of your fingers and a

little knife, you must try to shove it in lieu of pulling

it, lest you stretch it.

That you must press as lightly as possible on the
bird, and every now and then take a view of it, to see
that the feathers, &c. are all right.

That, when you come to the head, you must take
care that the body of the skin rests on your knee ;
for if you allow it to dangle from your hand, its own
weight will stretch it too much.

That, tliroughout the whole operation, as fast as you
det«ch the skin from the body, you must put cotton
immedia'«ly betwixt the body and it ; and this will
effectually prevent any fat, blood, or moisture from
coming in contact with the plumage. Here it may be
observed, that on tlie belly you find an inner skin,
which keeps the bowels in their place. By a nice opera-
tion with the knife, you can cut through the outer skin
and leave the inner skin whole. Attention to this will
render your work very clean j so that, vnth a little care
in other parts, you may skLn a bird without even soiling
your finger ends.

As you can seldom get a bird without shooting it, a
line or two on this head will be necessary. If the bird
be still alive, press it hard with your finger and thumb,
just behind the wings, and it will soon expire. Carry
it hy the legs, and then the body being reversed, the
blood cannot escape down the plumage through the

#

TID9.

I half of the thigh-
eah, fat, eyes, bones,
iken away,
rill be of use to keep
ng off the skin from
' your fingers and a
it in lieu of pulling

y as possible on the
e a view of it, to see

lead, you must take
rests on your knee ;
n your hand, its own

ration, as fast as you
jrou must put cotton
id it ; and this will
d, or moisture from
ige. Here it may be
find an inner skin,
ace. By a nice opera-
irough the outer skin
Attention to this will
;hat, with a little care
i without even soiling

without shooting it, a
lecessary. If the bird
our finger and thumb,
I soon expire. Carry
ly being revorsed, the
)luuiage through the

ON PREBERVING BIHDS.

269

shot holes. As blood will often have issued out before
you have laid hold of the bird, find out the shot holes,
by dividing the feathers with your fingers and blowing
on them, and then, with your penknife, or the leaf of
a tree, carefully remove the clotted blood, and put a
little cotton on the hole. If, after all, the .plumage has
not escaped the marks of blood ; or if it has imbibed
slime from the ground, wash the part in water, without
soap, and keep gently agitating the feathers, with your
fingers, till they are quite dry. Were you to wash
them, and leave them to dry by themselves, they would
have a very mean and shrivelled appearance.

In the act of skinning a bird, you must
ningthJwiS: either have it upon a table, or upon your
knee. Probably, you will prefer your knee ;
because when you cross one knee over the other, and
have the bird upon the uppermost, you can raise it to
your eye, or lower it, at pleasure, by means of the foot
on the ground, and then your knee will always move
in unison with your body, by which much stooping
will be avoided and lassitude prevented.

With these precautionary lunts in mind, we will now
proceed to dissect a bird. Suppose we take a hawk.
Tlie little birds will thauk us, with a song, for his death,
for he has oppressed them sorely; and in size he is
just the thing. His skin is also pretty tough, and the
feathers adhere to it.

Wo ^vill put close by us a little bottle of the solution
of corrosive sublimate in alcohol ; also a stick like a
common knitting needle, and a handf"il or two of
cotton. Now fill the mouth and nostrils of the bird
with cotton, and place it upon your knee on its back,
with ilB head pointing to youi left shoulder. Take

Ill

4ltH

71
.11

'I ,!

I«i;

270

ON PBESEBVINO BIIlPS

hold of the knife with your two first fingers and
thumb, the edge upwards. You must not keep the
point of the knife perpendicular to the body of the
bird ; because, were you to hold it so, you would cut
the inner skin of the belly, and thus let the bowels out.
To avoid this, let your knife be parallel to the body,
and then you will divide the outer skin with groat

ease.

Begin on the belly below the breast-bone, and cut
down the middle, quite to the vent. This done, put
the bird in any convenient position, and separate the
skin from the body, till you get at the middle joint of
the thigh. Cut it through, and do notUng more there
at present, except introducing cotton all the way on
that side, from the vent to the breast-bone. Do exactly
the same on the opposite side.

Now place the bird perpendicular, its breast resting
on your knee, with its back towards you. Separate the
skin from the body on each side of the vent, and never
mind at present the part from the vent to the root of
the tail. Bend the tail gently down to the back, and
while your finger and thumb are keeping down the
detached parts of the skin on each side of the vent,
cut quite across, and deep, till you see the back-bone,
near the oil-gland at the root of the tail. Sever the
back-bono at the joint, and then you have all the root
of the tail, together with the oU-gland, dissected from
the body. Apply plenty of cotton.

After this, seize the end of the back-bone with youx
finger and thumb : and now you can hold up the bird
clear of your k'- - and turn it round and round, as
occasion require. While you are holding it thus con-
trive, with the help of your other hand and knile, by

cutt
com
I
dol
pus
ears
skii
nici
woi
difi

^

litt

fori

litt

sol

of

aft

hei

yoi

an

gki

ve

un

av
ev

fei
of
th

P<
cc

m

ilMl

:rp8

fo first fingers and
must not keep the
to the body of the
it so, you would cut
18 let the bowels out.
parallel to the body,
iter skin with groat

breast-bone, and cut
Bnt. This done, put
ion, and separate the
it the middle joint of
to nothing more there
itton all the way on
jast-bone. Do exactly

liar, its breast resting
rds you. Separate the
of the vent, and never
,he vent to the root of
lown to the back, and
ire keeping down the
jach side of the vent,
ou see the back-bone,
f the tail. Sever the
1 you have all the root
l-gland, dissected from

m.

,e back-bone with your
a can hold up the bird
t round and round, as
re holding it thus, con-
ler hand and knife, by

ON FRESEBVINQ BIRDS.

271

cutting and shoving, to get the skin pushed up till you
come to where the wing joins on to the body.

Forgot not to apply cotton ; cut this joint through ;
do the same at the other wing, add cotton, and gently
push the skin over the head ; cut out the roots of the
ears, which lie very deep in the head, and continue
skinning till you reach the middle of the eye ; cut the
nictitating membrane quite through, otherwise you
would tear the orbit of the eye ; and after this, nothing
difi&cult intervenes to prevent your arriving at the root
of the bill.

When this is effected, cut away the body, leaving a
little bit of skull, just as much as will reach to the
forepart of the eye ; clean well the jaw-bones, fasten a
little cotton at the end of your stick, dip it into the
solution, and touch the skull and corresponding part
of the skin, as you cannot well get to these places
afterwards. From the time of pushing the skin over the
head, you are supposed to have the bird resting upon
your knee ; keep it there still, and with great caution
and tenderness return the hea^l through the inverted
Skin, and when you see the beak appearing, pull it
very gently till the head comes out unrufiled and
unstained.

You may now take the cotton out of the mouth ; cut
away all the remaining flesh at the palate, and what-
ever may have remained at the under jaw.

Here is now before you the skin, without loss of any
feathers, and all the flesh, fat, and uncleaned bones out
of it, except the middle joint of the wings, one bone of
the thighs, and fleshy root of the tail The extreme
point of the wing is very small, and has no flesh on it,
comparatively speaking, so that it requires no attention,

^gfggggggjgggg^gggggjggg^^

87S

ON PRESERVING niRDS.

■ 1

/"

except toucl)ing it with tho solution from the outside.
Take all tlio tlosh from tho remaining joint of tho
wing, and ' io a thread about four inches long to tho end
of it; touch all with tho solution, and put the wing-
boiio back into its place. In baring this bone you
Mumt by no means pull the skin; you would tear it
to pieces beyond all doubt, for tho ends of the long
ftiithers are attached to the bone itself; you must push
oil' tho skin with your thumb-nail and fore-finger.
Now skin tho thigh quite to the knee ; cut away all
flesh and tendons, and leave the bono : form an arti-
ficial thigh round it with cotton ; apply the solution,
and draw buck the skin over the artificial thigh : the
same to the other thigh.

Lastly, proceed to the tail ; take out the inside of
the oil-gland, remove all the remaining flesh from the
root, till you see tho ends of the tail feathers ; give it
the solution, and replace it. Now take out all the cotton
which you have been putting into the body from time
to time to preserve the feathers from grease and stains.
Place the bird upon your knee on its back ; tie together
the two threads which you had fastened to the end of
the wing-joints, leaving exactly the same space betwixt
them as your knowledge in anatomy informs you
existed there when the bird was entire; hold the
skin open with your finger and thumb, and apply
the solution to every part of the inside. Neglect
the head and neck at present ; they are to receive it
afterwards.

Fill the body moderately with cotton, lest the feather?
on the belly should be injured whilst you are about
the following operation. You must recollect that half
of the thigh, or in other words, one joint of the thigh-

)8.

from the outside,
iiiing joint of the
lies long to the end
and put the wing-
ing this bone you
you would tear it
3 ends of the long
3lf ; you must push
il and fore-finger,
taee ; cut away all
)no : form an arti-
ipply the solution,
rtificial thigh : the

out the inside of
ning flesh from the
il feathers ; give it
:e out all the cotton
te body from time
I grease and stains.
1 back ; tie together
Bned to the end of
same space betwixt
;omy informs you

entire ; hold the
thumb, and apply
I inside. Neglect
y are to receive it

on, lest the feathers

lilst you are about

recollect that half

joint of the thigh-

ON PRESKRVINO BIIITW.

bone, has been cut away. Now, .is this bone never
moved perpendicularly to the body, but on the contrary
in an oblique direction, of courfle, as soon of it is cut
oft", the remaining part of the thigh and leg, having
nothing noAV to support thom obliqmtly, must naturally
fall to their perpendicular. Hence the reason why the
legs appear considerably too long. To correct this,
take your need^^ "1 thread, fivston the end round the
bone inside, and H - pu«b the noodle through the skin
just opposite to > "ok on tin' outside, and after

finding the need ongst the feathers, tack up the

thigh under the sung with <">veral strong stitches.
This will shorten the thigh, and render it quite capable
of supporting the weight of the body without the help,
of wire. This done, take out every bit of cotton, ex;-
cept the artificial thighs, and adjust the wing-^oives
(which are connected by the thread) in the most even
manner possible, so that one joint does not appear to
lie lower than the other ; for unless they are quite
equal, the wings themselves will be unequal, when you,
come to put them in thei.' proper attitude. Here then
rests the shell of the poor hawk, ready to receive, from
your skill and judgment, the size, the shape, the features
«nd expression it bad, ere death, and your dissecting
hand, brought it to its present still »nd formless state.
The cold hand of death stamps deep its mark upon
the prostrate victim. When the heart ceases to beat,
and the blood no longer courses through th^ veins, the
features collapse, and the whole fra,me seems to shrink
within itself. If then you have formed your idea of
the real appearance of the bird from a dead specimen,
you will be in error. With this in mind, and at the
same time forming your specimen a trifle larger than

X

'I I

I

i: <

274

ON PBE8ERVIN0 DIRDH.

life, to nmko up tor what it will lose in drying, you will
roproduno a bird that will pleoflo you.

It is now time to introd\ico the cotton for an arti-
ficial body, by ui.iins of tliu \\U ■. iMck li'fi' a knitting
neodlo ; and without any other aid -jv robBtane than
that of this little stick and cottoi,. vovr ow genius
must produce those swellings and caviH i/s that just
proportion, that elegance and harmony of the whole, so
much admired in animated nature, so little attended
to in presorved specimens. After yon have introduced
the cotton, sow up th. >>inftco you originally made in
the belly, beginning at the vent. And from time to
time, till you arrive at the Inst stitch, keep adding a
little cotton, in order that th<;V" nay be no deficiency
there. Lastly, dip your stick : ..'o the solution, and
put it down the throat three or h)we times, in order
that every part may receive it.

When the head and neck are filled with cotton quite
to your liking, close the bill as in nature. A little bit
of bees'-wax at the point of it will keep the mandibles
in their proper place. A needle must be stuck into the
lower mandible perpendicularly. You will shortly see
the use of it. Bring also the feet together by a pin,
and then run a thread through the knees, by which you
may draw them to each other, as near as you judge
proper. Nothing now remains to be added but the
eyes. With your little stick make a hollow in the
cotton within the orbit, and introduce the glass eyes
through the orbit. Adjust the orbit to them, as in
nature, and that requires no other fastener.

Your close inspection of the eyes of animals will
already have informed you that the orbit is capable of
receiving a much lai-ger body th*n that pa«t of the eye

i

linos.

se in drying, you will
you.

ho cotton for an nrti-
; itick li'fc a knitting
ltd .' subb'.< lie than
koi,. voiu- ov genius
nd cavJM Ofs that just
[nony of the whole, so
re, so little attended
• yon have introduced
)U originally made in
b. And from time to
stitch, keep ailding a
.tiiiy be no deficiency
viio the solution, and
[ loar times, in order

Hod with cotton quite

I nature. A little bit

II keep the mandibles
nust be stuck into the

You will shortly see
Bot together by a pin,
e knees, by which you
as near as you judge
to be added but the
lake a hollow in the
roduce the glass eyes

orbit ta them, as in
r fastener.

eyes of animals will
he orbit is capable of
a that patt of the eye

h

imitmtm m

wMm/iVii'i:ii«WH

^.^nS

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.

Canadian Institute for Historicai ly/licroreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

ox PRESERVING BIRDS;

275

which appears -within it when in life. So that, were
you to proportion your eye to the size the orbit is
capable of receiving, it would be far too large. In-
attention to this has caused the eyes of every specimen,
in the best cabinets of natural history, to be out of all
proportion. To prevent this, contract the orbit, by
means of a very small delicate needle and thread, at
that part of it furthest from the beak. This may be
done with such nicety, that the stitch cannot be ob-
served 3 and thus you have the artificial eye in truo
proportion.

After this, touch the bill, orbits, feet, and former
oil-gland at the root of the tail, with the solution, and
then you have given to the hawk everything necessary,
except attitude, and a proper degree of elasticity, two
qualities very essential.

Procure any common ordinary box ; fill one end of
it, about three-fourths up to the top, with cotton,
forming a sloping plane". Make a moderate hollow in
it to receive the bird. Now take the hawk in your
hands, and, after putting the wings in order, place it
in the cotton, with its legs in a sitting posture. The
head will fall down. Never mind. Get a cork, and
run three pins into the end, just like a three-legged
stool. Place it under the bird's bUl, and ran the
needle, which you formerly fixed there, into the head
of the cork. This will support the bird's head ad-
mirably. If you wish to lengthen the neck, raise the
cork, by putting more cotton under it. If the head is
to be brought forward, bring the cork nearer to the end
of the box. If it requires to be sot backwards on the
shoulders, move back the cork.

As in drying, the back part of the neck will shrink

:fn~L um-'^l'WWlll iilltwuiiWIin

inijiiaimiiiitu*!

SM"^

■miiiiiujijHii ■

276

ON PRESERVING BIRDS,

nioro than the fore part, and thus throw the beak
higher than you wish it to be, putting you in mind
of a star-gazuig horse, prevent this fault, by tying a
thread to the beak, and fastening it to the end of the
box with a pin or needle. If you choose to elevate
the wings, do so, and support them with cotton ; and
should you wish to have them particularly high, apply
a little stick under each wing, and fasten the end of
them to the side of the box with a little bees'-wax.

If you would have the tail expanded, reverse the
order of the feathers, beginning from the two middle
ones, Wlien dry, replace them in their true order,
and the tail will preserve for ever the expansion you
have given it. Is the crest to be erect 1 Move the
feathers in a contrary direction to that in which they
lie, for a day or two, and it will never fall dowji after.

Place the box anywhere m your room, out of the
influence of the sun, wind, and fire, for the specimen
must dry very slowly, if you wish to reproduce every
feature. On this account, the solution of corrosive
sublimate is uncommonly serviceable j for at the same
time that it totally prevents putrefaction, it renders
the skin moist and flexible for many days. While
the bird is drying, take it out, and replace it in its
position once every day. Then if you se' that any
part begins to shrink into disproportion, you can easily
remedy it.

The smair covert feathers of the wings are apt to
rise a little, because the skin will come in contact
with the bone which remains in the wing. Pull gently
the part that rises, with your finger and thumb, for a
day or two. Press the feathers down. The skin will
adhere no more to the bone, and they will cease to rise.

di
dii

ha
ro
to

tic
ob
wi
cu
or

WI

sp
th
fi]

tl
bi
tl
e\

y<

it
w

di
si
fc

P'

tc

si
o:
tl
2

IBD8.

hu8 throw the beak
ratting you in mind
Ilia fault, by tying a
; it to the end of the
'ou choose to elevate
iUL with cotton; and
rticularly high, apply
id fasten the end of
1 little bees'-wax.
xpanded, reverse the
xom the two middle
in their true order,
jr the expansion you
be erect 1 Move the
3 that in which they
ever fall dowji after.
)ur room, out of the
Ire, for the specimen
h. to reproduce every
olution of corrosive
ble ; for at the same
trefaction, it renders
many days. While
md replace it in its
if you se' that any
ortion, you can easily

he wings are apt to
ill come in contact
le wing. PuU gently
»er and thumb, for a
iown. The skin will
ley win cease to rise.

ON PRESERVING BIRDS.

277

Every now and then touch and retouch all the
different parts of the features, in order to render them
distinct and visible, correcting at the same time any
harshness, or unnatural risings or sinkings, flatness or
rotundity. This is putting the last finisliing hand
to it.

In three or four days the feet lose their natural elas-
ticit}', and the knees begin to stiffen. When you
observe this, it is time to give the legs any angle you
wish, and arrange the toes for a standing position, or
curve them to your finger. If you wish to set the bird
on a branch, bore a little hole under each foot, a little
way up the leg ; and having fixed two proportional
spikes on the branch, you can, in a moment, transfer
the bird from your finger to it, and from it to your
finger, at pleasure.

When the biri is quite dry, pull the thread out of
the knees, take away the needle, &c. from undf r the
bill, and all is done. In lieu of being stiff with wires,
the cotton will have given a considerable elasticity to
every part of your bird ; so that, when perching on
your finger, if you press it down with your other hand,
it will rise again. You need not fear that your hawk
will alter, or its colours ft^e. The alcohol has intro-
duced the sublimate into every part and pore of the
skin, quite to the roots of the feathers. Its use is two-
fold. 1st. It has totally prevented all tendency to
putrefaction ; and thus a sound skin has attached itself
to the roots of the feathers. You may take hold of a
single one, and from it suspend five times the weight
of the bird. You may jerk it ; it will still adhere to
the skin, and, after repeated trials, often break short.
2dly. As no part of the skin has escaped receiving j 't

MiiiriittOT"

278

ON PRESERVINQ BIRDS.

tides of sublimate contained in the alcohol, there is not
a spot exposed to the depredation of insects ; for they
will never venture to attack any substance which has
received corrosive sublimate.

You are aware that corrosive sublimate hi the most
fatal poison to insects that is known. It is antipu-
trescent — so is alcohol ; and they arc both colourless —
of course they caimot leave a stain behind them. The
spirit penetrates the pores of the skin with wonderful
velocity, deposits invisible particles of the sublimate,
and flies off. The sublimate will not injure the skin,
and nothing can detach it from the parts where the
alcohol has left it.*

Furs of animals, immersed in this solution, will
retain their pristine brightness and durability in any
climate.

Take the finest curled feather from a lady's head,
dip it^in the solution, and shake it gently till it be
dry ; you will find that the spirit will fly oflf in a few
minutes, not a curl in the feather will be injured, and
the sublimate will preserve it from the depredation of
the insect.

Perhaps it may be satisfactory to add here, that,
some years ago, I did a bird upon this plan in Deme-
rara. It remained there two years. It was then con-
veyed to England, where it stayed five months, and
returned to Demerara. After being four years more
there, it was conveyed back again through the West
Indies to England, where it has now been near five
years, unfaded and unchanged.

* AU the feathers require to be touched with the solution, In order that
they may be preserved from the depredation of the moth. The surest way
of proceeding is, to immerse the bird in the solution of corrosive sublimate,
and then dry it before you begin to dissect it.

te:
iu
de
be
an
th
re
ha

C(
ro
pr
Pi
ac

di
ve

CO

yc

Tl

sei
ex
pi
th

he
ap
fo

th
de
sa

ai*MiA<4<!:Miii)1M^M(

IRDB^

ON PRESERVING BIRDS.

279

e alcohol, there is not
I of insects ; for they
substanco -which has

ublimate w the most

nown. It is antipu-

aro both colourless —

a behind them. The

skin with wonderful

les of the sublimate,

not injure the skin,

the parts where the

Q this solution, will
nd durability in any

from a lady's head,
6 it gently till it be
t will fly oflf in a few
: will be injured, and
m the depredation of

y to add here, that,
a this plan in Deme-
rs. It was then con-
yed five months, and
eing four years more
dn through the West
3 now been near five

rith the solution, in order that
of the moth. The surest way
alution of corrosive suhlimat^

On reflecting that this bird has been twice in the
temperate and torrid zone, and remained some years
ill the hot and humid climate of Demorara, only six
degrees from the lino, and where almost everything
becomes a prey to the insect, and that it is still as sound
and bright as when it was first done, it will not be
thought extravagant to surmise that this specimen will
retain its pristine form and colours for years after the
hand that stufi'ed it has mouldered into dust.

I have shown this art to the naturalists in Brazil,
Cayenne, Demerara, Oroonoquo, and Rome, and to the
royal cabinets of Turin and Florence. A severe accident
prevented me from communicating it to the cabinet of
Paris, according to my promise. A word or two more,
and then we will conclude.

A little t.im.e and experience will enable you to pro-
duce a finished specimen. " Mox similis volucri, mox
vera volucris." If your early performance should not
correspond with your expectations, do not let that cast
you down. You cannot become an adept all at once.
The poor hawk itself, which you have just been dis-
secting, waited to be fledged before it durst rist on
expanded pinion ; and had parental aid and frequent
practice, ere it could soar with safety and ease beyond
the sight of man.

Little more remains to be added, except that what
has been penned down with regard to birds, may be
applied, in some measure, to serpents, insects, and four-
footed animals.

Should you find these instructions too tedious, let
the wish to give you every information plead in their
defence. They might have been shorter ; but Horace
says, by labouring to be biief you become obscure.

280

ON PRESERVINO BIUDS.

If, by their monnfl, you should bo enabled to procure
specimens from foreign parts in better preservation
than usual, so that the naturalist may have it in his
power to give a more perfect description of them than
lias hitherto been the case, — should they cause any
unknown species to be brought into public view, and
thus add a little more to the page of natural history, —
it will please me much. But should they, unfortunately
tend to cause a wanton expense of life — should they
tempt you to shoot the pretty songster warbling near
your door, or destroy the mother as she is Hitting on
the nest to warm her little ones, or kill the father as
he is bringing a mouthful of food for their support —
oh, then ! deep indeed wiU be the regret that I ever
wrote them.

Adieu,

Ar

AT

AI
Al
Al

Charles Watbrton.

FINIS

Al

Al

A]
A]
A]

A]
A

R. Cl^y, SON, ANll TUVLOB, PBINTBRB, BRKAD BTBEET HILL.

f E]\ 4 im

1

IHDS.

DO enabled to procure

better preservation

may have it in his

'iption of them than

nild they canse anj'

nto public view, and

of natural history, —

d they, unfortunately

of life — should they

ngster warbling near

as she is Hitbing on

or kill the father as

1 for their support —

le regret that I ever

[ABLES WaTBBTON.

I, BRKAD STREET HILL.

WOEKS

PDBLIBHKD BT

T. FELLOWES, LUDGATE HILL.

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