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Les diagrammas sulvants lliustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Xewfs ana ciarft's JEypcWtton. VOLUME III. ^f HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION UNDER THE COMMAND OF LEWIS AND CLARK, To the Sources of the Missouri River, thence across the Rocky Mountains and down the Columbia River to the Pacific Ocean, performed during the Years 1S04-J-6, by Order of the Government of the United States. A NEW EDITION, Faithfullv Reprintbd from the only Authorized Edition of 1814, with Copious Critical Commentarv, Prepared upon Examination of Unpublished Official Archives and Many Other Sources of Information, Including a Diligent Study of thb ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT JOURNALS AND FIELD NOTEBOOKS OF THE EXPLORERS, together with H Wew »(ograpb«caI an^ JBJbUograpbical 1^ntro^uct(')n, 'Hew Aaps and otber f llustratione, and a Complete Inbei, BY ELLIOTT COUES, Late Captain and Assistant Surgeon, United States A riiiy, Late Secretary and Naturalist, United States Geolc'ical Survey, Member of the National Academy of Sciences, etc. IN FOUR VOLUMES. Vol. III. NEW YORK. FRANCIS P. HARPER. 1893. t^. 189094 CopyRicH", 1893, BV FRANCIS P. HARPER. ^/i rights reserved. CONTENTS OP THE THIRD VOLUME. HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION. CHAPTER XXV. FAGK Botany and Zo5logy .821 CHAPTER XXVI. Homeward Bound on Columbian Tide-water, . 901 CHAPTER XXVII. The Columbia from Sandy River to The Dalles, . . 928 CHAPTER XXVIII. The Columbia from The Dalles to Wallawalla River, 954 CHAPTER XXIX. Overland East of the Columbia and along the Koos- KOOSKEE TO COMMEARP CREEK q8i CHAPTER XXX. Camp Chopunnish, on the Upper Kooskooskee, . . icxjp CHAPTER XXXI. Again in the Bitter-root Mountains, .... 1037 CHAPTER XXXII. Division of the Expedition : Captain Lewis' Explora- tion OF Big Blackfoot and Maria's Rivers, . . 1061 vl CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXXIII. Captain Lewis' Exploration of Maria's River : Con- '""' TiNUED— Reunion of the Expedition, . . . 1092 CHAPTER XXXIV. Captain Clark Proceeds to Explore the Yellowstone, 1118 CHAPTER XXXV. Captain Clark Descends the Yellowstone-Reunion OF the Expedition on the Missouri, . . .1,46 CHAPTER XXXVI. Down the Missouri from the Little Missouri to White River, CHAPTER XXXVn. The Expedition Returns in Safety to St. Louis, "75 1200 Appendix I. 1 Essay on an Indian Policy. , Appendix II. Estimate of the Western Indians, . Appendix III. Summary Statement, Appendix IV. Meteorological Register 1264 1215 1244 1257 IN- PAOt 1092 PE rE, 1 118 )N . 1 146 • "75 1200 1215 1244 I2S7 1264 CHAPTER XXV. BOTANY AND ZOOlOGY.* [/. Botany.'' '\ a MONO the vegetable productions of the country, which furnish a large proportion of the food of the Indians are the roots of a species of thistle, the fern, the rush, the hquonce, and a small cylindric root resembling in flavor and consistency the sweet potato. I. The thistle,' called by the natives shanatanque, is a plant which grows in a deep, rich, dry loam, with a con- siderable mixture of sand. The stem is simple, ascending, cylindric and hispid, rising to the height of three or four feet The cauline life [leaf], which, as well as the stem of the last season, is dead, is simple, crenate, and oblong; rather more obtuse at Its apex than at its insertion, which is decurrenf its position IS declining; its margin is armed with prickles! and Its disk IS hairy. The flower is dry and mutilated, but ' The notices of plants and animals relate more particularly to the redon ^ere the explorers then were, and to the course of the Columbirriver ; bi Z refer to vanous speces found in the mountains between the Columbia and the Missouri, and on the upper portions of the latter river \ rt' ^?k7 t 'f '''"P'" ^'^'"^ "''^ C'^^*^ P 89. at date of Jan. 20th 1806 Li;j. ' et?'''ci:tp 8 : "i °' -^'^ *''^"= '^^"^^ ^^^ ^•^^ -'-"'^- " r I :i ^^' ^^^'^ ^^^ P""'^'* description follows, in substance • the te" 'tL the!^ r"T-: 'n "n'"^ P""*^'' shanataque. The statement in the tex hat the cauline life (leaf), etc., is dea^, means simply that it had died head '" sl > '""7 "'' ^'^ "' °' ""''''' ^'^^'''g '"^^ --1-- of the head Sagamity .s from an Algonkin word for a preparation of Indian com we should now call hominy, boiled to the consistency'of 'grue . Gaya^ (HisT iation. L. and C. probably picked up this word at St. Louis. 821 8aa KDIULIC TinSTLE AND FERN. the pencarp seems much like that of the common thistle. The root-leaves, which still possess their verdure, and are about half-^rown, are of a pale green color. The root how ever, .s the only part used. It is from 9 to 15 inches' long^ about the size of a man's thumb, perpendicular, fusiform, and w.th from two to four radicles. The rind is of a brown CO or and somewhat rough. When first taken from the earth It [the root] IS white, and nearly as crisp as a carrot ; in this state It IS sometimes eaten without any preparation. But after it is prepared by the same process used for the pasheco- quamash, which is the most usual and the best method it becomes black and much improved in flavor. Its taste is exactly (/. /^p) that of sugar, and it is indeed the sweetest vegetable employed by the Indians. After being baked in the kiln It is eaten either simply or with train-oil; some- times It IS pounded fine and mixed with cold water, until it IS reduced to the consistence of sagamity, or Indian mush, which last method is the most agreeable to our palates 2. Three species of ferns grow ui this neighborhood, but the root of only one is eaten.' This is very abundant in those parts of the open lands and prairies which have a deep loose, rich, black loam, without any sand. There it attains the height of four or five feet, and is a beautiful plant with a fine green color in summer. The stem, which is smooth cylindnc and slightly grooved on one side, rises erectly about half its height, when it divides into two oranches or rather long foot-stalks, which put forth in pairs from one side only, near the edges of the groove, declining backward from the grooved side. These foot-stalks are themselves grooved and cylindric ; and, as they gradually taper toward the extremities, put forth others of smaller size, which are alternate, and have 40 or 50 alternate, pinnate, horizontal, sessile leaves ; the leaves are multipartite for half the length of their foot-stalk, when they assume the tongue-like form altogether; being, moreover, revolute, with the upper disk very much like the common brake of the United States. EDIBi.R FERN AND RUSH. 823 smooth and the lower resembling cotton; the top is annual and therefore dead at present, but it produces no flower or fruit. The root itself is perennial, and grows horizontally sometimes a little diverging, or obliquely descending fre' quently dividing as it proceeds, and shooting up a number of stems. It lies about four inches under the surface of the earth, in a cylindrical form, with few or no radicles and vanes from the size of a goose-quill to that of a man's finger The bark is black, thin, brittle, rather rough, and easily sepa^ rates m flakes from the part which is eaten ; the center is divided into two parts by a strong, flat, white ligament, like a piece of thin tape, on each side of which is a white sub stance, resembling, af- (/. /50) ter the root is roasted, both m appearance and flavor the dough of wheat. It has how- ever, a pungency which is disagreeable ; but the natives eat It voraciously, and it seems to be very nutritious. 3. The rush ' is most commonly used by the Killamucks and other Indians on the seacoast, along the sands of which It grows in greatest abundance. From each root a sin^rle stem rises erectly to the height of three or four feet, some- what thicker than a large quill, hollow and jointed ; about 20 or 30 long, lineal, stellate or radiate, horizonial leaves surround the .tem at each joint, about half an inch above which Its stem is sheathed like the sand-rush. When green It resembles that plant also in appearance, as well as in havl ing a rough stem. It is not branching ; nor does it bear, as far as we can discover, either flower or seed. At the bottom cf this stem, which is annual, is a small, strong radicle, about an inch long, descending perpendicularly to the root ; while just above the junction of the radicle with the stem, the lat- ter IS surrounded, in the form of a wheel, with six or nine small radicles, descending obliquely. The root attached to this radicle is a perennial solid bulb, about an inch long and of the thickness of a man's thumb, of an ovate form, •This is one of the horsetails, Equisetum telm^Uia, belonging to the sole genus of vascular cryptogamous plants which constitute the order^Jt/.'i The original description is Clark P 91. y»«J««ff' "«' of vjiuLeu orates, called the wild crab-annlp ti, i r • precsel, the same, as is also the ba* i^Sure^nd 'SLl-! csnized „. specie, of ^iZ, «:T„ t"; Z^- '!" '""' " '""•" "" once „^:;:e:i^ ^Lrcr2rc;'l;rr ,=-?"- °'^- "-• Neither this nor any other cranh.Jr the Columbia with the Pacific' .h.s.o,co..eJeLt.:""7l?K?„;Z"ir^"r°^ '" °-»"^ known Oregon ^rab-appl.' ' ■"'^' '''""''''■^^' '^^ ^°™">on and well- THE PLANT CALLED SACACOMMIS. 82/ The berries grow in clumps at the ends of the small branches each supported by a separate stem, and as many as from 3 to 18 or 2o m a clump; the berry is ovate, with one of Its extremities attached to a peduncle, where it is to a small degree concave. The wood of which [this tree] is excessively hard. The natives make wedges of this wood for splitting their boards, their firewood, and for hollowing out their canoes ; the wedge, when driven into solid dry pine receives not the slightest injury. Our party made (/. /c.)' use of It likewise for wedges and ax-handles. The fruit is exceedingly acid, and resembles in flavor the wild rrab The pericarp of the berry contains a soft, pulpy substance' divided into four [or five] cells, each containing a single seed ; the outer coat of the pericarp is a thin, smooth, though nrm and tough pellicle. 13. The plant called sacacommis" by the Canadian traders derives Its name from this circumstance : that the clerks of the trading companies are generally very fond of smoking Its leaves, which they carry about with them in a small bag It grows generally in an open piny woodland country, or on Its borders. We found this berry in the prairies bordering on the Rocky mountains, or in the more open woodlands It IS indiscriminately the growth of a very rich or a very poor soil, and is found in the same abundance in both The natives on the western side of the Rocky mountains are very fond of this berry, although to us it was a very tasteless and msipid fruit. The shrub is an evergreen, and retains its verdure in the same perfection the whole season round However inclement the climate, the root puts forth a great n Tiber of stems, which separate near the surface of the mSn :r '"" ''^ ^"^ °^ ' ^"^^" ^-" ^« that of a mans finger; these are much branched, the branches form- very common and of wide distribution in the West It h. ^ , repeatedly noticed in this work, under various Indian Ind Irl^er ^ 828 A FRUIT LIKE THE HUCKLEBERRY. mg an acute angle with the stem, and all more properly pro- umbent than creeping. Although it sometimes p^tf/ortt md,cles from the stems and branches, which .trike obliqu" y mto the ground these radicles are by no means generd or equable m their distances from each other, nof do thev appear calculated to furnish nutriment to th; plant. The bark .s formed of several layers of a smooth, ^hin, brin e redd.sh substance, easily separated from the stem. The leaves with respect to their position are scattered, yet twigs. The leaf ,s about three-fourths of an inch in length The' W til"' 1'""' °' ^ '''^ Sreen, slightly groov 5.' at fi ,l'!w '^ "'.P^P^'ion^ble length- the berry is at- (A fS4) tached m an irregular manner to the small boughs among the leaves, and always supported by separate sma 1, short peduncles; the insertion produces a s%ht con! cav,ty ,n the berry, while its opposite side is slightly convex The outer coat of the pericarp is a thin, firm, tough pellide he mner coat consists of a dry, mealy powder, of a yelW .sh-wh,te color enveloping from four to six large! I Xt brown seeds. The color of the fruit is a fine scarlef. The riprin's 'f^^l ''"*^ *'*out any preparation. They npen m September, and remain on the bushes all winter Zt t^, '^/ ''°-'- """'^ ''' ^°'"''™- gathered and ru;iM:o:bie.''^' - '-''• -"-^ "-^^ - ^"^^ -"■>»- 14. The deep purple berry," like the huckleberry, termi- nates bluntly, and has a cap or cover at the end Th^se bernes are attached separately to the sides of the boughs by a short stem hanging underneath; they often grow very near each other on the same bough; the berry separate^ very easUy from the stem ; the leaves adhere closely The shrub nses to the height of six or eight feet, and sometimes grounds. The shrub is an evergreen, about ten inches in '• This seem, 1„ b« Amehn.hi.r ah.i/oU«. which, .hough nornidlv decMuo- becomes sem«,ergteeii on the Oregon coast. mnnauy aeciduous. CONIFEROUS TREES— RED FIR. 829 Circumference; ,t divides into many irregular branches; seldom more than one stem springs from one root, although the shrubs associate very thickly. The bark is somewhat rough and of a reddish-brown color; the wood is very hard • the leaves are alternate and attached by a short foot-stalk to the horizontal sides of the boughs ; their form is a long oval rather more acute toward the apex than at the point of insertion ; the margin is slightly serrate, its sides collapsing thick, firm, smooth, and glossy; the under surface is of a pale or whitish green, the upper of a fine deep green. This beautiful shrub retains its verdure throughout the year, and is more peculiarly beautiful in winter. The natives some- times eat the berries without preparation; sometimes they dry them in the sun, at others in their sweating kilns ; they very {p. ijj) frequently pound and bake them in large loaves, weighing from 10 to 15 pounds. The bread keeps very well for one season, and retains its juices better by this mode of preparation than any other. When broken it is stirred in cold water until it acquirer the consistency of soup, and then eaten. ^ .u^^t"^; "^^^ ''■^^^ ""^ ^ '^'■^^'' S''°^*^ ^'■e very abundant; the whole neighborhood of the coast is supplied with great quantities of excellent timber. The predominating growth IS the hr, of which we have seen several species. There is one singular circumstance attending all the pine of this coun- try, which is, that when consumed it yields not the slightest particle of ashes. ^ 15. The first species" grows to an immense size. The trunks are very commonly 27 feet in circumference six feet above the earth's surface; they rise to the height of 230 feet 120 of that height without a limb. We have often found them 36 feet in circumference. One of our party measured one, and found it to be 42 feet in circumference, at a point fZncL^ T ?'V xTT '" "^"^' ^P^"^^ °^ fi' - '^- neighbourhood "The first species is probably Aiies noiv.s, the red fir of the Pacific coast. 830 HEMLOCK-SPRUCE. beyond the reach of an ordinary man. Thi.s trunk for the d,sta„ce of 30O feet was destitute of h™bs ; the t ee wa'cr fectly sound and at a moderate calculation it, statuTe may be estimated at 300 feet. The timber is [sound] throu^hou, scales off m flakes irregularly round, and of a reddish brown color particularly the younger growth ; the trunk is stl branchmg, and not very proliferous. The leaf is ace osZt' tenth of an mch m width, three-fourths in length firm stW and acuminate. It is triangular, a little decltnt Thieklv scattered on all sides of the bough, and springs fr°om smah tion of the boughs. The bud-scales continue to encircle their respective twigs for several years ; Captain Lewis has srieT'irvZ" u t";= f °""' °' '°" ^^^ ^^^"^ scales. It yields but little rosin, and we have never been t ".dlTTh ""%.=". '"-Sh we have killed several (A -f5<)) 16. The second" is a much more common snecies borhood. It seems to resemble the spruce, rising from 160 to ,80 feet, and being from four to six in diameter IZaM round, and regularly tapering. The bark is th 'of Ida* b r'of'the bt h' "■/™" '™*^""''™' -'-^"ces the bark of the boughs and young trees is somewhat smooth but not equal [in this respect] to the balsam-fir- the wood IS white, very soft, but diflieult to rive ; the trunk i's a simple branching, and diffuse stem, not so p^liferous a p nTa 'd' firs usually are. It puts forth buds from the sides of the smal boughs, as well as from their extremities the stem terminates, like the cedar, in a slender pointed top Tl" mrth'a" !Tr- ."'^^'■='^'k= ^•■ort. accrose' rath more than half a line m width, and very unequal in length- eavfsTnt:! f ""'°™ '^""^"^ ""^ '"'". while ofhe; a nuarterT ".'"'?; "•"' °' *= ''°"Bh, do not exceed a quarter of an inch. The leaf has a small longitudinal channel on the upper disk, which is of a deep and gfosTy -The second sp.cfes of ■• n, » ia ,h. h=mIock-sp„c., T,,,^. „„„,„,■„„, OTHER CONIFERS— noUCLAS FIR. 83 1 green while the under disk is of a whitish green. It yields than the end of a man's thumb; it is soft, flexible of an ova e form and produced a, the ends of the small twigs .7. The th,rd spec.es" resembles in all points the Cana. d.an balsam fir It grows from 2/. .0 4 feet in diameter and nses to the height of 80 or ,00 feet. The stem is stop e branchmg, and proliferous. The leaves are sessile acZus' one^,ghth of an inch in length and one-sixteenth n w dth hickly scattered on the twigs, adherent to the three under s,des only g,bbous, a little declining, obtusely pointed soft and flex,ble. The upper disk is longitudinalfy marked vi h a pale green and not glossy. This tree affords, in consider. rtstils 1 filled V. '" 't1'' '"' Wearance. The smaf p.stils [?] filled, rise like a blister on the («. j„) trunk and he branches. The bark that envelops these o^Ms s soft and easily punctured ; the general appearance of the bark s dark and smooth, but not so remarkable for that qual ty a .8. The fourth species- in size resembles the second. The koT^'dT"'';:, ru"""«''"'""'''"g'P""f"»-: "-e bark .8 of a dark.redd,sh brown, thicker than that of the third spe- cies, divided by small longitudinal interstices, not so mud magnified as m the second species. In relative positio^ e leaves resemble those of the balsam.fir, excepting that they are only two-thirds the width and little more tlL one hal^ glossy. The wood yields no balsam and but little rosin. The wood IS white and tough, though rather porous. 19- The fifth species" in size resembles the second, and has " Vi' ?'"! »P"«= » »n««.i„, possibly n„ja gi,,«»'.>a. >• Th^ IT '■"'"' ■'/"'»'">■ «» Brea. while Hr. AU„gra„M,. 832 VVIHTK PINK— TIDIJ-LAND SPRUCK. a trunk snnp c. branching', and proliferous. The bark is thin dark brown. d.vHied LxiKntudinally by interstices, and scahnj; ; '" t un ro hn, (lakes. It yields but little balsan> ; two- uuls of he .iumeter of the trunk, in the eenter, pres nts a rcddKsh-wh.te ; the remainder is white, porous, aid tou,h he tw.Ksare nu.eh longer and nu.re slender than in either he o her spec.es ; the leaves are acerose. one-twentieth .u .nch .n wulth and one inch in len^nh. se.xtile. inserted on all sales of the bou^h. straight, and obliquely pointed owarc the cxtrcMuities. The upper disk has i J,n longi- d.na channel. Mul is of a deep green, but not so glossy as the ba Isam.fir. I he under disk is of a pale green. We have seen a species of this fir on low marshv grounds n.sen,b mg n, all p.nts the foregoing, except that (t tranche^ n od.ffus.vely. Ih.s tree is generally 30 feet in height, rcsu t f.om Its open situation, as it seldom grows in the nc.ghborhood of another tree. The cone is 2^ (p fZ) inches in length and 3^ in its greatest circumference. It tapers regularly to a point, and is formed of imbricated scales of a bluntly rounded form. A thin leaf is inserted in the p.th of b.e cone, which overlays the center and extends one-half inch beyond the point, of each scale wh?; •'^''' •^•f'V^P'-^^-i-;'^" does not differ [generically] from ^vhat .s usually denominated the white pine [P^,;,s strodusl tn \ irgmia. I he unusual length of the cone seems to con- stitute the only difference. This is sometimes 16 or 18 inches in length, and about 4 in circumference. It trrows on the north side of the Columbia, near the ocean 21. The seventh and last species" grows in low grounds, and in places frequently overflowed by the tide, seldom alsoknounas Lamberts p.„e. and sugar-pine. It is a noble tree sometime 275 feet luj,-b. yickiinj,^ a very valuable timber. sometimes " The seventh species is a spruce, in the most approved nomenclature now p aced .n a genus Puea (..s distinguished from Abies) The species is 7 J .W.-, te tide-land spruce, found from .Maska to California, and pecLlfy w U developed about the mouth of the Columbia, where it forms a belt of timber o m BLACK OR RKI) ALDER. 833 .J risinfr h.phcr than 35 feet, and not more than from 2^ to 4 in diameter; the stem is simple, branchinj^r, and prohferous- the bark resembles that of the first species, but is more ruKt,'L-d ; the leaves are acerose, two-tenths of an inch in width, three-fourths in length, firm, stiff, and a h'ttle acumi- nated ; tliey end in short pointed tendrils, ^nbbous and are tli.ckly scattered on all sides of the branch, though they adhere to the three under sides only ; those inserted on the under side mcline sidewise, with upward points, presenting the leaf m the shape of a sithe ( scythe |; the others arc pomted upward, sextile, and, like those of the first species grow from the small triangular pedestals of a bark, spongy' soft, and elastic. The under disk is of a deep glossy green the' other of a pale whitish-green; the boughs retain the leaves of a SIX years' growth ; the bud-scales resemble those of the first spec.es: the cone is of an ovace figure, 3^ inches in length and 3 in circumference, thickest in the middle, taper- ing and terminating in two obtuse points; it is composed of small, flexible scales, imbricated, and of a reddish-brown color. Kach of these scales covers two small seeds, and is itsef covered in the center by a small, thin, inferior scale acutely pointed ; these scales (p. 139) proceed from the side^ of the bough as well as from its extremities. This tree was nowhere seen above the VVappatoo [island] 22. The stem of the black alder" arrives to a great size. It IS simple, branching, and diffuse; the bark is smooth of a light color, with white spreading spots, resembling those of the beech ; the leaf, fructification, etc.. resemble precisely those of the common alder of our country. The shrubs or 15 miles broad It attains a heiRht of 140-180 feet, and furnishes a lum f:;,:",—:^." ^^^''^"^^^^- '''- '-'''- ^^ ^^ -^'- ^--^ - ^.t. »' This is .Unus mbra, also called red alder. It is one of two alders of the Paahc coast wh.ch frequently grow to be medium-sized trees ; the otl "speJi^ Stl ;. t r ; " ""' "^ "^" """^^^ «'^^" '■" fhe eastern parts of the United W "■'■"''"' '"' ""■ ''"'""'■ ^"'^^ —- European alder s^^ 834 BROAD-LEAVED AND VINE MAPLES. grow separately from diFerent roots, not in clusters like those of the United States. The black alder does not cast Its leaf until the ist of December. It is sometimes found growmg to the height of 60 or 70 feet, and from 2 to 4 in diameter. 2^^r There is a tree common to the Columbia river, below the entrance of Cataract river, when divested of its foliage much resembling the ash. The trunk is simple, branching, and diffuse ; the leaf is petiolate, plain, divided by four deep ines; ,t resembles that of the palm, and is considerably lobate ; the lobes terminate in from three to f^ve angular points, and their margins are indented with irregular and somewhat circular incisures ; the petiolate [petiole] is cylin- drical, smooth, and seven inches long; the leaf itself eight inches in length, and twelve in breadth. This tree is fre- quently three feet in diameter, and rises from 40 to 50 feet The fruit is a winged seed, somewhat resembling that of the maple. 24." In the same part of the country there is also another growth, resembling the white maple, though much smaller and seldom to be seen of more than six or seven inches in diameter. These trees grow in clusters, from 15 to 20 feet in height, from the same bed of roots, spreading and lean- ing outward; the twigs are long and slender; the stem is simple and branching; the bark in color resembles the white maple ; the leaf is petiolate, plain, scattered, nearly circular, with acute, angular incisures round the margin of an inch in length, and from six to eight in number; the acute {p. 160) angular points so formed are crenate, three inches in length, and four in width ; the petiole is cylindric smooth, 1% mch in length ; the fruit is not known. 25-33-" The undergrowth consists of honeysuckles; alder "Is a maple, Acer macrophyllum, a fine species of California and Oregon, distinguished as the broad-leaved maple, and furnishing a wood much used fo furniture. It is the " new timber " of p. 679, note. vluir^T' '""P'''„-^r circinatum, the line maple of western parts of the United States, especially from Oregon to British America '» Are to be sought in Clark P 112 and following pages. HONEYSUCKLE-ELDER-SEVEN-BARK. 835 [elder]; seven-bark or nine-bark; huckleberry ; a shrub h'ke the qu.llwood ; a plant like the mountain-holly ; a green- briar; and ferns. ^ ^ 25 " The honeysuckle common to the United States we found m th.s neighborhood. We first discovered this honey- suckle on the waters of the Kooskooskee, near the Chopun- nish nation, and again below the grand rapids 26. The alder [elder,'" a species of] which is also common to our country, was found in great abundance in the wood- lands, on this side [west] of the Rocky mountains. It differs in the color of its berry, this being of a pale sky-blue, while pm h ^'^'^' ISamducus canadensis] is of a deep 27 The seven-bark.- or, as it is usually denominated, the nine bark of the United States, is also [represented by another species] common to this country ^ hi^t'ZT'f '' \u^""'"" °^ ^"'^J^l^berry, common to the high lands, from the commencement of the Columbia valley to the seacoast, rising to the height of six or eight feet branching and diffuse. The trunk is cylindrical, of a dark brown color; the collateral branches are green, smooth and square, and put forth a number of alternal br;nrs of the same color, from the two horizontal sides only. The fruit nativ:r Thr^ 'r'' "^r'' ^^^^ ^^ '"-^ -^-- ^y th ,n.h 7n 1 1 i '! P'^' ^'■"'"' ^"^^"' three-fourthr of an inch in length, and three-eighths in width, oval, terminating more acutely at the apex than at the insertion of th^ foot Ihe hardback on the Pacific coasl U <; J "°""« • ™'. ^^^«" '" "^"^ clry grounds, usually in the (/>. 161) neighborhood of some water-course; the roots are creeping and cylindrical. 29. The su-m of the first species is from .2 to 18 inches in height, about as large as an ordinary goose-quill, simple, unbranched, and erect ; its leaves arc cauline? compound and spreading ; the leaflets are jointed, and oppositely mn. wi ?' /". .11' P'''''' terminated by one [leaflet] sextile, widest at the base, tapering to an acuminate point ; it is i j/ inch in Its greatest width, and y/, inches in length ; each point of the margin is armed with a subulate thorn • these thorns are ,3 to ,7 ia number, veined, glossy, caHnated and wrinkled; their points obliquely tending toward the extremity of the common foot-stalk. 30. The stem of the second species is procumbent, about the size of that of the first species, jointed, and unbranched ; ts leaves are cauline, compound, and oppositely pinnate ; thenbis 14 to 16 inches in length, cylindric, and smooth; the leaflets are 2% inches long, one inch wide, and of the greatest width one-half inch from the base ; this they regu- larly surround, and from the same point taper to an acute apex, usually terminated with a small subulate thorn • they are jointed and oppositely pinnate, consisting of six pairs terminated by one [leaflet] ; sessile, serrate, ending in a small subulate spine, from 25 to 27 in number; they are smooth, plain, deep green, all obliquely tending toward the w^inter'^ °^ '^"^ foot-stalk; they retain their green x\[ The large-leaved thorn " has a leaf about 2% inches long, ** Have not been identified. '' May be some species of wild rose. Clark Q 9^101. April 8th, 1806. has this BLACKnKRRY. 837 which IS pctiolate and conjugate; the leaflets are petiolate acutely pointed, having their margins cut with unequal and .rregularmcsures. The shrub, which we had once mistaken for the large-leaved thorn, resc ,bled the stem of that shrub, excepting the thorn ; it bears a large three-headed leaf 31. Thebnar-isof the class Polyandria and order poll- Symm^lPo/MJ'ntal The flowers are single; the peduncle is long and cyhndrical ; the calyx is a perianth of one leaf five-cleft, and acutely pointed ; the pe- (p. 16,) rianth prope; IS erect, mfcnor m both petals and germen [ovaryl the corolla consists of five acute, pale scarlet petals, inserted on the receptacle, w.th a short and narrow cleft ; the corolla is smooth, moderately long, situated at the base of the germen filarnT"'' "' u :''"''' ^^^^'"b'-S - ^"P ; the stamens, «; filaments are subulate, mserted into the receptacle, unequal, and bent mward, concealing the pystilium [pistils] -the anther .s two-lobed and inflated, situated on the top of he filament of the pystilium ; the germ is conical, imbricated supenor, sessde. and short; the styles are short, compared' with the stamens, capillary, smooth, and obtuse; they are d,s nbuted over the surface of the germ, and deciduous. This green-briar grows most abundantly in rich dry lands, in he vicinity of a water-course, and is found in small qua^ti- ties in piny lands at a distance from the water. In the for mer situation the stem is frequently of the size of a mans" finger, and rises perpendicularly four or five feet; it then descends in an arch, and becomes procumbent, or rests on some neighboring plant ; it is simple, unbranch^d. and yhn. dnc; m the latter situation it grows much sma ler and is usualy procumbent. The stem is armed with sha ped ftv shape and appearance that of the purple raspberiy so com- note about the large-leaved thorn. " to correct an error which I have heretofore made wjth respect to this shrub." neretoiore ial 1^1 Z7"ue"l ^T "^".■"'^'"^^- ^- ereen-briar is commonly said of Smi- fnx)is a bramble, JHudus ursinus, well described and readilv xecLnU.A T^ word misspelled " poligymnia " in the text is in the ul'tiZZT' 838 LARGE AND SMALL SPECIES OF FERNS. mon to the Atlantic States ; the fruit is a berry rcscinbh'ng the blackberry in all points, eaten when ripe by the natives, and h-ild in much esteem, though it is not dried for win- ter consumption. This shrub was first discovered at the entrance of Quicksand river; it grows so abundantly in the fertile valley of the Columbia, and on the islands, that the country is almost impenetrable ; it retains its verdure late in summer. 32, 33." Besides the fern already described as furnishing a nutritious root, there are two other plants [not] of the same species [though of the same order Filices and suborder Polypodtacece], which may be divided into the large and the small. 32. The large fern rises three or four feet ; the stem is a common {p. 163) footstalk [stipe] proceeding immediately from the radix [root-stock, which is] somewhat flat, about the size of a man's arm, and covered with innumerable black coarse capillary radicles issuing from every part of its sur- face. One of these roots will send forth from 20 to 40 of these common footstalks, bending outward from the com- mon center; their ribs are cylindric, and marked longitu- dinally their whole length with a groove on the upper side ; on either side of this groove, and a little below its edge, the leaflets are inserted ; these are shortly petiolate for about two-thirds the length of the middle rib, commencing from the bottom, and thence to the extremity are sessile ; the rib is terminated by a single undivided lanceolate leaflet ; the leaflets are from two to four inches in length, have a small acute angular projection, and are obliquely cut at the base ; their upper surface is smooth and of a deep green ; the under surface is of a pale green, and covered with brown « The large fern here described is quite different from F.eris aquilina var lanuginosa, noted on p. 822. It is Aspidium munitum, one of the wood-ferns or shield.ferns, about 40 species of which are fou J in the United States They are so named from the form of the indusium or covering of the fructification The best-known is the Christmas shield-fern, A. acrostic hoides, native of eastern North Amen.i, from Canada to Florida, and often used in Christmas decorations. 1 he small fern is probably Pohpodium scouleri. ■I :.scinbHng c natives, 1 for win- 2d at the dantly in inds, that 3 verdure urnishing t] of the suborder i and the tern is a lediately at, about 3le black its sur- to 40 of he com- longitu- )er side ; dge, the >r about \g from the rib let; the a small le base ; m ; the I brown 'i/ina var. rood-ferns Js. They itification. of eastern corations. ZO6LOGY— DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 839 protuberances [sori] of a woolly appearance, particularly near the central fiber; the leaflets are alternately pin- nate, and m number from no to 140; tl,^:y are shortest at the two extremities of the common footstalk, largest in the center, gradually lengthening and diminishing as they suc- ceed each other. 33- The small fern rises likewice with a common footstalk from the radix, from four to eight in number and from four to eight mches long ; the central rib is marked with a slight longitudmal groove throughout its whole length ; the leaflets are oppositely pinnate for about one-third of the length of the common footstalk from the bottom, thence alternately pinnate ; the footstalk terminates in a simple, undivided lanceolate leaflet; the leaflets are oblong, obtuse, convex, absolutely entire, and the upper disk is marked with a slight longitudinal groove ; near the upper extremity these leaflets are decursively pinnate, as are all those of the large fern, lioth of these species preserve green during the winter. [//. Zoology^ The quadrupeds of this country, from the Rocky moun- rn\ *r ^''^'^'' °'^'^^"' ""^y ^^ conveniently divided into KP- 164.) the domestic and the wild animals. The f rst fdivi sion] embraces the horse and the dog only. [Domestic Am'tnals.'] I The horse [Eguus cabcnus\ is confined principally to the nations inhabiting the great plains of the Columbia extending from lat. 40° to 50° N., and occupying the trac^ or erritory lying between the Rocky mountains and a [Cas- cade] range of mountains which passes the Columbia river about the Great Falls ; [that is,] from long. u6o to i.^o W. The Shoshonees, Choppunish, Sokulks, Escheloots Eneshures, and Chilluckittequaws all enjoy tke benefit o^ T^xt^ad • • 'frol ^""7 ,'"'""" '''^ ^'"^'-"""^ ^''^"Ses and the Cascade range cxt had from lo„g,tu,le sixteen to one In.ndred and tv.-enty-o„e west " whfch ^i.p I correct. Area approx. 2.,ooo s,. miles of " bunch-grass oun'r; " 840 THE HORSE— THE DOG. that docile, noble, and generous animal, and all of them except the last three, possess immense numbers They appear to be of an excellent race, lofty, elegantly formed active and durable; many of them appear like fine Enghsh coursers ; some of them are pied with large spots of white, irregularly scattered, and intermixed with a dark brown bay; the greater part, however, are of an uniform color, marked with stars and white feet, and resemble in fleetness and bottom, as well as in form and color, the best b ooded horses of Virginia. The natives suffer them to run at large in the plains, the grass of which affords them their only winter subsistence, their masters taking no trouble to ay in a winter's store for them ; notwithstanding, they will unless much exercised, fatten on the dry grass afforded by the plains during the winter. The plains are rarely if ever moistened by rain, and the grass is consequently short and thin. The natives, excepting those of the Rocky moun- tains, appear to take no pains in selecting their male horses to breed : indeed, those of that class appear much the most indifferent. Whether the horse was originally a native of this country or not, the soil and climate appear to be perfectly well adapted to the nature of this animal. Horses are said to be found w.-ld in many parts of this extensive country The several tribes of Shoshonees who reside toward Mexico on the waters of the Multnomah river, particularly one of them, called Shaboboah," have (/. ,6j) also a great number o^ mules, which the Indians prize more highly than horses. An elegant horse may be purchased of the natives for a few beads or other paltry trinkets, which, in the United States would not cost more than one or two dollars. The abun! dance and cheapness of horses will be extremely advanta- geous to those who may hereafter attempt the fur-trade to the East Indies by the way of the Columbia river and the racific ocean. 2. The dog [Cams famt/mrts] is unusually small, about the J^6V^-compare the name So-so'-bu-bar. of note •. p. 554. apparently the same WILD ANIMALS— GRIZZLY BEAR. I of them, , elegantly r like fine le spots of th a dark n uniform semble in ', the best em to run hem their 0 trouble iing, they s afforded rarely, if ntly short :ky moun- ale horses the most native of perfectly ire said to ry. The exico, on of them, amber of 1 horses, for a few i States, he abun- advanta- -trade to and the bout the ly the same 841 Size of an ordinary cur ; he is usually party-colored, among which [dogs] black, white, brown, and brindle are the colors most predominant. The head is long, the nose pointed, the eye small, the ear erect and pointed, like that of the wolf ; the hair is short and smooth, excepting on the tail, where'it is long and straight, like that of the ordinary cur. The natives never eat the flesh of this animal, and he appears to be in no other v/ay serviceable to them than in hunting the elk. [ IVi'/d Animals.] The second division comprehends [among others] the brown, white, or grisly bear; the black bear; the common red deer; the black-tailed fallow-deer; the mule-deer; the elk ; the large brown wolf ; the small wolf of the plains'; the large wolf of the plains ; the tiger-cat : the common red fox- the silver fox ; the fisher or black fox ; the large red fox of the plains ; the kit-fox, or small fox of the plains ; the ante- lope ; the sheep; the beaver; the common otter; the sea- otter; the mink; the seal; the raccoon; the large gray squirrel ; the small gray squirrel ; the small brown squirrel • the ground-squirrel ; the braro ; the rat ; the mouse ; the mole; the panther; the hare; the rabbit; the polecat or skunk. I. First the brown, white, or grisly [grizzly] bear, which seems to be of the same family [same species, Ursus horri. bills J, With an accidental variation of color only, inhabits »«I leave this singularly drawn-up list in its original disorder, and without «cnt here, as the several species succeed one another in the same dTs rde on he following pages, where each one is identified as it occurs. <:xl tT^ '" '•"' '""'^ "^''^''^ ''^^°^^^ ^^^^ - ^°°logy by Lewis and Clark. The,r accounts are very full, as we have already seen (pp 288 208 tft: IT A. "'^ '° ^^ ^° """"^^^^ ^"d so fierce, especially m d^en™, us se„„., b.ild and „„ ,„™ „, ,Ke t„Ld IC.hTpeol 842 BLACK BEAR— THREE KINDS OF DEER. the t.mbered parts of the Rocky mountains. These are rarely tound on the westerly side, and are more common below the Kocky mountains, on the plains or on their borders, amidst copses of brush and Uiiderwood, and near the water-courses. We are unable to (/>. i66) learn that they inhabit at all the woody country bordering on the coast as far in the interior as the [Cascade] range of mountains which passes the Columbia between the Great Falls and the rapids fCas- cades] of that river. ^ 2. The black bear [Ursus americanus '"'] differs in no respect from that common to the United States. They chiefly inhabit timbered parts of the Rocky mountains, and likewise the borders of the great plains of the Columbia. 1 hey are sometimes found in that tract which lies between those plains and the Pacific ocean. One of our hunters saw one of this species, which was the only one we have dis- covered since our residence at Fort Clatsop. 3.4, 5- The deer are of three kinds: the common red deer, the black-tailed fallow-deer, and the mule-deer. ftsTrelf scrotum together with the inability of this species to climb trees. tS^lL 7- '"' '1 ""''■'^'^^ ^^"^"'y '' "^^- -Th-' — ks are for th; wl kbear' atlT". '"''T' ^^'^^"^'^'"^ the species as distinct from the ences had 'l >, T '^"'^'"'^ ^^ ^-^..^^^ni investigators. The differ- ences had long been known to the Indians, and are correctly set forth as for example under dates of May 14th and 31st, which see beyond • ttepoL; bemg that the grizzly, in all its variety of color, is different from'the black be r ^me color-vanet,es o which latter are nevertheless like some of those of tl; T.Z\ Tr . '■' '''°""'' ^"^"'^^^^ '^' ^^^' °f '^^ technical names 2d Am. ed., pp 291. 299. and since almost universally adopted by naturalists • U./ero., used by Sir John Richardson in the Fauna Boreafi- Americana, Tstg.' Cuvier's' t^i A • , 'TTt' "''^ ^^ "''""'°" ^""'^^ '" Griffith's edition of Cuviers R^gne Animal, 1827, II. p. 229. and V. p. 112, with a plate prepared from oneof Lewis and Clark's specimens. The adjectives ''grisfy '"and gmzly are used indiscriminately by our authors ; but it may be observed that ^.»/>' means horrible, terrible, fearful, and the like, while J..w/mrans of I the Latm word horrMts, and is preferable, because it applies to all the color- vanations of the animal ; but " grizzly " is the adjective most in use. bear iLT. "^ T °" ''■' ^""'^ '^^^ ' ^'^°' PP" ^5°- 320. ^he black bear, like the grizzly, runs into color-variations, the best marked of which VIRGINIAN AND COLUMBIAN DEER. 843 rus J mhab.t the Rocky mountains in the neighborhood of he Chopunn,sh about the Columbia, and down this nver a low as where t,de-water commences. They do not appl^r to d,ffer essentially from those of the Unitel States befng he same m shape. s,ze, and appearance. The tail is however o the ; r' '" ""'""^' '^S*' '- -ceeding ,ta of 'he common deer. Captain Lewis measured on! and found It to be 17 inches long. ' 4- The black-tailed fallow-deer [Cariacus columiianus"! ^ufr ahe '"''rr'-r^ "^ ^ *^""" ^p--. »i deer 7heir 2" ? """ ^"'"'^ ""* "'^ """"°" «, .J fT '^ '°"S". ^ind their winter coat is darker han those of the common deer; the receptacle of the eye larmjer, crumen, or suborbital gland] is more conspicuous he,r legs are shorter, their bodies thicker and larger. The tad IS of the same length with that of the common deer, the » a light redcl,,h.bro„„ ; which variety is l„„„„ „ ,j. ..d„„„„..i.„ covered. It was named (/rsus a,nencanus by the celebrrH R ^ ^ '''' ^'" Peters. Pallas, in his Spicilegia Zoelogica. 1780 XVI pp t' "f" T'T^ appear to differ essentially-that is snecificallv frll 7k ^ ' °" "°' United StitPQ TV,» . 1 , : ^P^^^'^^l'y- from the common deer of the united btates. The great length of tail assigned (17 inches) doe. nnt h.u ! m all cases, the tail being usually but ra nr , . • V "'"^ ^ood any longer than that ofV ^ t« 1 ' N^tuTarl ^"'' '"' /'"^ ""'^ '^ with our authors that the Pacific slope "ed deeH n fa'vrt "" T -^^ ^^"^ sequently called C. virginianus i..«.« (after a name T'/ ^"f '''^'^°"- Rafinesquein 1817. Amer. Monthly Mag I p 436 "7,^. ^^^!<^^-'' ^y C. S. i 844 MULE-DEER. hair on the under side white, and on its sides and top of a deep jetty black ; the hams resemble in form and color those of the mule [-deer], which it likewise resembles in its gait. The black-tailed deer never runs at full speed, but bounds with every foot from the ground at the same time, like the mule-deer. He sometimes inhabits the woodlands, but more (/. 167) often the prairies and open grounds. It may be generally said that he is of a size larger than the common deer and less than the mule-deer. The flesh is seldom fat, and in flavor is far inferior to any other of the species [genus]. 5. The mule-deer \Cariacus macrotis*'] inhabit both the mule-deer, C. macrotis. Unfortunately, however, it was mistaken for a variety of the latter by Sir John Richardson, in 1829, on the occasion of its receiving its first technical name, this author calling it Cervus macrotis var. columbianus in the Fauna Boreali-Americana, I. p. 255, pi. 20. To add to this confusion, as time wore on, and the mule-deer became well-known to hunters and travelers It acquired the name of "black-tailed" deer-though the tail is white only tipped with black. Moreover, though the true black-tailed deer of Lewis and Clark only inhabits west of the Rocky mcantains, the so-called black-tailed deer (C. macrotis) is also found there, as well as east of these mountains. Hence a " black-tailed " deer west of the Rockies, may be either Cariacus columbianus or C. macrotis; but east of those mountains can only be C. macrotis. It would be much better, were it possible, to confine the name "black-tail" to C. coluvi- bianus, and call C. macrotis mule-deer ; but people will go on miscalling these deer to suit themselves. In 1848. the late Titian R. Peale (U. S Expl Exp. p. 59) dedicated the true Columbian black-tailed deer to Captain Lewis' z.% Cervus lewisii J and in 1851-53, Audubon and Bachman renamed it C. ruhardsomi, after Sir John Richardson, in their Quadrupeds of N. Am. II. p 211, and III. p. 27, pi. cvi. (See p. 122, note there, and also following note" See Clark R 63.) ^ « Yet another discovery of Lewis and Clark-a noble deer, superior in size to either of the foregoing, and only inferior in this respect to the elk. The authors called it the mule-deer, not with any implication of hybridity, but from the great size of the ears. To the same feature it owes its first technical name Ccr. vus macrotis, given in 1823 by Mr. Thomas Say, in Major Long's Expedition to the Rocky Mts. II. p. 88. This animal is quite different from any other deer of North America, and there never need have been any such misunderstanding as did arise (see preceding note). It got its preoccupied and inapt name " black- tail" by way of distinction from the common deer (Cflr?a«« virginianus), on whose tail there is no black, and wituout any reference whatever to the black- tailed C. columbianus. The best character to distinguish C. macrotis is neither ELK. g^j seacoast [of the Pacific] and the plains of the Missouri, and hkewise the borders of the Kooskooskee river, in the neigh- borhood of the Rocky mountains. It is not known whether they exist in the interior of the great plains of the Columbia or on the lower borders, near the mountains which pass the river above the great falls. The properties of this animal have already been noticed [eg,, at pp. 121 122] •fi; ^.uV\^?''.T ^^''^^^^•^^■•^"] is of the same species with that which inhabits much the greater part of North America They are common to every part of this country as well the timbered lands as the plains, but are much more tail nor ears, but horns The antlers are doubly dichotomous, or twice-forked- hat. s, the mam beam forks m two nearly equal branches, and each branch forks black-ta,led) and also m C. columbianus (which is black-tailed), the antlers agree in havmg a s.ngle regularly curved beam, from one side of whkh all the nes or pomts spnng successively. Thus, though there is only one species of deer of the genus an«.«. m eastern North America-the common cW«/«.,«_there are three species m the West, namely : C. virginianus macruL, the westrn variety of the last-named; C. colunManus, the true black-tailed deer • andT macrons, the so-called black-tailed deer, or true mule-deer-precisely 'as oriri naUy determined by our authors, to whom we owe the discoverv'f aU thr L the name of elk. It was known by no other to Lewis and Clark. We may suppose that the term was already fixed in their day, and certainly the animal ha b en generally so called from their day to ours. To understand the transTe o this name from one European animal, not found in America, to a qut differ ent American animal, we must know: first, that our "elk," solcalled is a true Europe, C elapkus ; second, that " elk " is the proper name only of a European XTce frr"'':: "''^' ^^" ••^^'^^^ ^^ distinguished frim ouf moo sttwh 71 '''' '' "'^'" "" ^PP^'-^^^'^ '^ any American animali; Eurone T !f I" ''' ""°"' ^'^^ "°* '^ ^^^^ --'^''--- Both the andTr f ''' ^"""'" "°°^^ ^^^^ ^^-'^- fl^t- 1°-. P^l-ated antlers socaii detTror^v'ifr"' f^^ '""^ ^^^°p^^" ^^^^ ^'^ *^^ ^^ tLf n , , "^ '''"" '°"S' ^'^^^ ^y^'"'^"<^ ^'^"ers of many slender tnctle^^H-"" """^' ''^'"' "'" "^^^^ S--^"y be) called by the di fessor B. S Barton in 1809 (Trans. Amer. Philos. Soc. VI. p. 70) and Cervus 306). but It had previously been named C. elaphus canadensis by Erxleben Syst. Anim. 1777. p. 305. andBoddaert. Elench. Anim. 1784 p 135 ' "Illl l»,.^ ». , 846 WOLVES. abundant m the former than in the latter. In the month of March we discovered several which had not cast their horns and others of which the new horns had grown to the len^rth of SIX mches. The latter were in much the best order and hence we draw the inference that the leanest elk retain 'their horns the longest. 7, 8. The wolves" are either the large brown wolf, or the wolf of the plams, of which last there are two kinds rspeciesl the large and the small. The large brown wolf inhabits the woody countries on the borders of the Pacific, and the moun- tarns which pass the Columbia river between the great falls and rapids, and resembles in all points that of the United btates. The large [Canis lupus occidentalis] and small [Canis latrans, the coyote] wolves of the plains principally inhabit the open country and the woodlands on their borders They resemble, both in appearance and habit, those of the Missour, plains. They are by no means abundant in the plams of the Columbia, as they meet there but very little game for their subsistence. thr^?" """'J^T ".^ "°' '° ^°''""''' '" "■"'^''"e '^^ ^^°l^«s as they are in handline he bears and the deer, since they separate the single large specL which ex sts nuMus of Say 1823). Their "large wolf of the plains " Is the same in anv of blnfrrf '• f "' ''^"Se from black through various grizied and ^buLn u-^ T. '^t''°''''' °^ ^'^a'^-^r <=olor, are commonly also callel buffalo-wol and'-tamber-wolf." While the buffalo remained they were vv numerous but of late years their numbers have been greatly reduced by tie business of the wolfers, who systematically destroyed them wilh st^chninl he ake of the pelts. On the other hand, the "smallwolf of the pll " is a totally different animal, the coyote, CanU latrans ; which however is bvn! means confined to the plains, and is still common i; many" paTs "the VVest of hf iX""" " i" ?°"'°" ''^" '''' '^'^^ ^^°^-« d° -d some var-eS o the latter are scarcely distinguishable by color alone from the coyote The best account given by Lewis and Clark of the coyote is at p. 297 wheret "is fullv Sr-"': eTi :';':r T? '''-"t' '"-' -^ b-rw,-:;dogTf ;: :^r ries .see also p 122. This animal received no technical name till 182c LYNXES. 847 9. TJict,gcr-cat[Zj/«^n0«/^^^/^/«^"] inhabits the bor. ders of the plains, and the woody country in the neighbor- hood of the Pacific. (/. ,6S) This animal is of a size larger than the wild-cat [L. ru/us] of our country, and much the same in form, agility, and ferocity. The color of the back neck and sides is reddish-brown, irregularly variegated with small spots of dark brown. The tail is about two inches long, and nearly white, except the extremity, which is black • It termmates abruptly, as if it had been amputated. The belly ,s white, beautifully variegated with small black spots • the legs are of the same color with the sides, and the back is L«r— but read legs are] marked transversely with black stripes ; the ears are black on the outer side, covered with fine short hair, except at the upper point, which is furnished with a pencil of hair, fine, straight, and black, three-fourths of an inch in length. The hair of this animal is long and fine, far exceeding that of the wild-cat of the United States but mferior in that quality to that of the bear [./.-read Louservia, Clark R 68] of the northwest. The skin of this animal is in great demand among the natives, for of this ^Z ^uT.u^^ 'Misleading name tiger-cat, but with minute accuracy is thus described the lynx of the Columbia, discovered by our author^ Th • distinct from the Canada lynx. Lyn^.a.a.j', an7 s en been liri also a different species from the bay lynx. Z. ru/us, of which, how verTaptars to be a local race. It was first named Lynx fasciatus bv C 7 «!«' ^^ " the letrq nrp nf fi,» , '" '^7 '"y settled. The words m question stand : .ha above p„a6raph, whe„ 'lie iu^o^ .I'LoI :T.;^:;l"r r'TT '" is inferior ,„ ,h.t of ,he ■• W of ,„e „„„h.™7 C . k R 6 h, " Lo '"" cf the N.W.," b, which he means loup-cervie, . / Ihe CaJr., 1 , 848 FOXKS— THE PKKAN. they form their robes ; it requires four to make up the com- plement. 10-14. Of the foxes/' we have seen several species 10 The large red fox YVulpcs macrurus\ of the plains and the [n. ) kit-fox [K vclox\ or small red fox of the plains' are the same which are found on the banks of the Missouri! Ihey are found almost exclusively in the open plains, or on the tops of brush [/. r., brushy hillsj withiw the level country. 12. The common red fox {_Vulpcs fulvns\ of the United btates nihabits the country bordering the coast, nor docs this animal appear to have undergone any alteration _ 13. Th4^ black fox VMustela pennanti'^ J, or, as it is termed in the neighborhood of Detroit, the fisher, is found in the woody country bordering on the coast. How it should have « This account of the foxes is sufficient for satisfactory identification. The large red fox of the plains" is certainly that representative of the common red ox wh.ch was called Vuipes nuurourus by Baird, in Stansbury's Exp. Great Jalt Lake, ,mb. June 1852, p. 309, and V. utah by Audubon and Bachman, in Proc Acad. Nat. Sc. Phila. V. pub. July, 1852. p. 114, and Quad. N. Am. Ill 1854 p. 255. pl. ch. Both the common fox and the long-tailed have their parallel color-var,at,ons to cross, silver and black ; and the silver fox noticed in a UA- lowmg p..ragraph (No 14) is of course the same as the " large red fox." though .MS nominally a speces called V. argentatus (after Shaw. 1800). Th^ kit-fox V. V.I0X. ,s entirely distinct from all the other American foxes, having in fact i'; neares relative ,„ the Asiatic corsac. The swift fox. as it is also cnlled s no .ced on previous pages of this work, and is one of our authors' discoveries cll t/ ^ '"T" T '"!'"'"'• 'P'"*^' "^""^ "" ^^==3. when it was called Can vcloxX^y Say, Long's Exp. R. Mts. I. p. 487 (later Vulpcs vclox of Audubon and Bachman. Quad. N. Am. 1851, 11. p. 13 p] jji) f.r7''r/"'v'I '''t' ^''"■'''''' '■' "°' "" ^""^ ^^ '^"' "«^ «^^" belonging to the same family (Ca«./.). It is a member of the family MusteliJ.^ and Its nearest Zl r ^ni h 7T r ""'; '' " "" ''^"''■^^'^'^ ^P^*^'^^' P-"l'- '- North Amer- ica, and had been known for many years before it was noticed by Lewis and 1,,?; t "'' 7tfl "'""' '' Mustela pennanti by Erxleben, Syst. Anim. 1777, p. 479. and the following year was renamed M. canadensis by Schreber baugethiere. III. p. 492. pl. 144. But it had already been known and described' years before it acquired a technical designation, as the pekan (so BufTon, 1765)* Pennant called it the fisher in his several works, 1771-1784, for some unexplied reason or from erroneous information, as it does not catch fish. We may also be permitted to doubt that raccoons are its usual food. The original description occupies Clark R 68, 69. and is easily recognized. ^ SILVER FOX. 849 acqmrcd th.s appellation it is difficult to imagine, as it cer- amly does not prey upon fish. These animals are extremely strong and act.ve^ and admirably expert in climbing ; this hey perform w.th the greatest ease, and bound from tree to tree m pursuit of the squirrel or raccoon, their most usual food. The.r color is jetty black, excepting a small white spot upon {p. r6g) the breast ; the body is long, the le^a e short, resembling those of the ordinary turn-spit dojl ' The irom that of the ordmary fox. 14. The silver fox [ Vulpcs macrurus var. argentatus^^^ is an ammal very rare, even in the country he inhabits. We have seen nothmg but the skins of this animal, and those were In tlie possession of the natives of the woody country below the .w"of Th ; '" "'"' "*'^'^"^ "^ ^°"J'^'^^"- '^ ^° be an inhlb! tant of that country exclusively. From the skin it appeared to be of the size of the large red fox of the plains resem- of the tad. The legs Captain Lewis conjectured to be some- what larger. It has a long deep lead-colored fur, for o 1 [...-read or pod], intermixed with long hairs, either of a white at the top [t.psj, forming a most beautiful silver-gray Captam Lew. thought this the most beautiful of the wlofe' spec.es [genus], excepting one which he discovered on the Missouri near the natural walls. ^ 15- The antelope [Antz/oca/>ra americana^^] inhabits the clause shou!/ocerus .«../...."] Ks found in many places, but mostly in L tim! bered parts o the Rocky mountains. They live in greater numbers on that chain of mountains which forms the com- rnencement of the woody country on the coast and passes he Columbia between the falls and rapids. We have only seen the skins of these animals, which the natives dress with the wool, and the blankets which they manufacture from the (A /70) wool. The animal from this evidence appears to by the Spaniard Hernandez, and after him was treated by a long series of writers • among whom Umfreville. Le Raye. Pike. Gass. etc., shortly preceded [an c' anrf ; "'TT'' " ^°"^ "^'"^'^ ''^'--" '"^^ ^"-«'<. (cattle, sh'p'ot and antelopes) and the a■r^.■,a (de.r). It has hollow ho ns like the bovi- rummants. yet these horns are forked, and also shed like th antlers of the G Apr. loth. 1858, but first pubhshed by A. D. Bartlett, P. Z. S for 186. There are many other peculiarities. The pronghorn or prongbuck'h s of iS years become much restricted, both in numbers and in extent ofdistrihnLn . seems likely to share the fate of the butTalo. See Clark R; Feb o^"' It .s unfortunate that the authors call this animal " the Ih;ep." when it i^!.. HEAVER. 851 I I be of the size of our common sheep, and of a white color • the wool IS fine on many parts of the body, but in length not equal to that of our domestic sheep. On the back, and particularly on the top of the head (read neck], this is inter- mixed with a considerable proportion of long straight hairs h-rom the Indian accounts these animals have erect pointed horns ; one of our engagees informed us that he had seen hem in the Black Hills, and that the horns were lunated like those of our domestic sheep [a mistake]. We have nevertheless too many proofs to admit a doubt of their existence in considerable numbers on the mountains near the coast. [See also text of April loth. beyond.] 17. The beaver {Castor canadensis] of this country is large and at ; the flesh is very palatable, and at our table was a real luxury. On the 7th of January. ,806. our hunter [Dewyer] found a beaver in his traps, of which he made a bait for taking others. This bait will entice the beaver to the trap from as far as he can smell it. which may be fairly stated to be at the distance of a mile, as their sense of smell- ing IS veo' acute. To prepare beaver bate [bait], the castor ratheLn"'' ;;1«° that they do not notice in this connection the bighorn which » a sheep. a„d one with which, moreover, they had become perfectly famhrar on the Upper Missouri, as they mention it repeatedly as the '' bi/hom "^r -K allies in the goral and related Asiatic forms Tt was fi;st Ic it"' """■"' Capra. and called C. columlnana, by S^^marelr DW r tTt '°'' ^'""• C. montana, by Dr R Harlan in tLc ^ i^' ''" "^- P" ^^o i 'hen was much better ihan caH t i V^' '" '""' Americana, p. 253. This bighorn); bu the peculiars of ^hT^'T" ^''"^ """^ '"'^"^*'°" «^ '^e ^/W was forme'd f t eVept io bvH m7t Tt ''^^ ' ^^^"^'^ ^^""^ since been generallv known tlTT ^ "'''"'"°" ^"^"h m 1827 ; and it has there, for the Ut'an^.:t^or:rjr"l^6'^:;'^r^'^"-^^^ I : "ll 85: OTTKRS OF LAND AND SEA. i|. or bark-Stone is first gently pressed from the bladder-Hkc bac which contains it, into a phial of four ounces, with a large mouth. iMve or six of these stones are thus taken, to which must be added a nutmeg, 12 or 15 cloves, and 30 grains of cinnamon, finely pulverized and stirred together, with is much ardent spirits added to the composition as will reduce the whole to the consistency of mustard. This must be carefully corked, as it soon loses its efficacy if exposed to open air. The scent becomes much stronger in four or five days after preparation, and, provided proper precaution is exercised, will preserve its efficacy for months. Any stron- aromatic spices will answer, their sole virtue being to mve variety and pungency to the scent of the bark-stone The male beaver has six stones, two of wh.ich contain a substance much like finely pulverized bark, of a pale yellow color, in smell resembling tanners' oose [ooze]; these are called bark- s ones, or (/. /;/) castors. Two others, which like the bark- stones resemble small bladders, contain pure strong oil of a rank smell, and are called the oil-stones ; the other two are the testicles. The bark-stones are two inches in len^^th • the others are somewhat smaller, of an oval form, and ife in a bunch together, between the skin and the root of the tail with whicli they are closely connected and seem to commul mcate. The female brings forth once in a year only, and has sometimes two and sometimes four at a birth, which usually happens in the latter end of May and the beginning of June; at this time she is said to drive from the lodge the male, which would otherwise destroy the youno- Thev propagate like fowl, by the gut Ipcr anum\ and the male has no other sexual distinction that we could discover 18. The common otter ILutra canadensis-] has already been described, and this species does not differ from those inhabiting the other parts of America. 19. The sea-otter lEnhydris manna] resides only on the seacoast, or in the neighborhood of salt-water. When fully grown he arrives at the size of a large mastiff dog The ears and eyes [are remarkably small. Lewr's J 90], particulariy MINK— SEAL. 853 the former, which are not an inch in length, thick, pointed, fleshy, and covered with short hair ; the tail is ten inches long, thick at the point of insertion, and partially covered with a deep fur on the upper side ; the legs are very short ; the [hind "''] feet, which have five toes each, are broad, large, and webbed ; the legs are covered with fur, the feet with short hair. The body of this animal is long, and of the same thickness throughout ; from the extremity of the tail to the nose it measures five feet. The color is a uniform dark brown ; but when in good order and season, perfectly black. This animal is unrivaled for the beauty, richness, and softness of the fur ; the inner part of the fur, when opened, is lighter than the surface in its natural position ; intermixed with the fur are some black and shining hairs,' which are rather longer, and add much to its beauty; the fur about the ears, nose, and eyes, in some of this species, presents a lighter color, sometimes a brown {/>. ijs). The young are often seen of a cream-colored white about the nose, eyes, and forehead, which are always much lighter than their other parts ; their fur is, however, much inferior to that of the full-grown otter. 20. The mink [Putorms vison] inhabits the woody country bordering on the coast, and does not differ in any point from those of the United States. 21. Seals" are found on this coast in great numbers, and " Irrespective of the number of digits, the description in the text only applies to the hind feet, which are remarkably long, broad, and flat, like a seal's flippers The fore feet are extremely small, like a cat's paws-in fact, the toes are so short and so closely bound together, as to suggest a stump left after amputation Like- wise, what IS said of the tail is not what the authors meant-which is that the fur of the upper side is specially long. There is also an ellipsis in the text wh.cli I supply from the codex, regarding the eyes and ears. " The natives called the infant otter Spuck, and the full grown, or such as had obtained a coat of good fur, E-luck'-A-e- Lewis J 91. The sea-otter is also described Clark R 75-78, Feb. 23d, 1806. " The account hardly suffices for the identification of any species. The pin- nipeds which are known to occur on the Pacific coast, at or near the mouth of the Columbia, are several species of the two families. OtaniJ,v or eared seals and Phoad,e or ordinary seals. Of the former there are : i. The great J^:,M. i ■1/ 854 RACCOON— LARGE GRAY SQUIRREL. as far up the Columbia river as the Great Falls, but none have been discovered beyond them. The skins of such as Laptam Lewis examined were covered with a short, coarse stiff, and glossy hair of a reddish-brown color. This animal' when in the water, appeared of a black color, sometimes spotted with white. We believe that there are several spe cies of this animal to be found in this country, but we could not procure a sufficient number to make the examination • the skms were precisely of the same kind as our countrymen employ in the manufacture of trunks. 22. The raccoon IProcyon hernandezif] inhabits woody countries bordering on the coast, in considerable numbers Ihese are caught by the natives with snares or pitfalls, but they hold the skins in little or no estimation, and very sel- dom make them into robes. 22-27. The squirrels we have seen are : 22. The large gray squirrel \_Sciurus fossor^'X This ani mal appears to bean inhabitant of a narrow tract of country well covered with white-oak timber, on the upper side of the mountains just below Columbia Falls. This animal we have only found in those tracts which have been covered with at;l'''^tv" ^°-'=^"^^.^^-''°"- 2. The medium-sized Zalophus calif ornianus, a very well-known species, still common on the rocks at the entrance of the BaJ Rnfrr r"'"'°' f •'''" "" °" '^"^' °*^ Uor^i^x^y, and therefore familiar objects Both of these are ha.r-seals. 3. The northern fur-seal, or sea-bear, CalloAinus like That't r I'r 1 '^ °' "^^ ^°'""'^^"^^ ^^^"^- '^' -^^^-^^ -^'^^ -^ the Uniled i. . ' ^fl "'rr.'^"'^ "'"''^ ^^V^^^^i^^ correspondence between the final arb:trat.on of the dispute. Of the Phocid. the only Columbian pedes "s Sfed :' ^- ^- ''"^' ^''^' °^ ^'^^'^ ^''^'' ^' T. Gill. X866 ; bu itror seal o "'" u T/"" '"" ^"^^'-^'^^^y distinguished from the common harbor seal or sea-calf, Phoca vitulina. Seals are noted R 70 80 As remarked by Professor Baird, it is singular that an animal described with such part,culanty as this squirrel was not scientifically named by those el V authors, as Or Rafinesque. and Harlan, who imposed technical'nam pon UnLd ST p f "/"'" '^ '^- ^- P^^'^' '" '«48. in his Zoology of the United States Explonng Expedition under Commander Charles Wilkes U S N In 1852 ,t was renamed S. heermannihy Dr. John L. LeConte, after Dr" a' L, Heerman (Pro. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philada. p. 140). See Clark R 85 LARGE AND SMALL GRAY SQUIRRELS. 855 [such] timber, for in countries where pine is most abundant he does not appear. He is much superior in size to the common gray squirrel, and resembles in form, color, and size the fox-squirrel ISciurus cinereus] of the Atlantic States The tail exceeds the whole length of the body and head • the eyes are dark; the whiskers long and black; the back' sides, head tan, and outward part of the legs are all of a o T h"h ^l !'' '"^^^' ^^- ''^'^ ^^"y- -d -ner part of the body [limbs], are all of a pure white; the hair is short, like that of the fox-squirrel, though [not] much fine and intermixed with a portion of fur." The natives hold m high estimation the skin of this animal, which they u e m forming their robes. He subsists on the acorn and filbe^which last grows in great abundance^ in'th: 7l 23. The small gray squirrel [Sciurus richnrdsonP^} is com mon to every part of the Rocky mountains wheri timbTr abounds He differs from the small brown squirrel" dougiasz^ in color only. The back, sides, neck, head taH and outer s de of the letrs or^ ^f o k • u , , ' ' frrav fh<. f -1 , t , ^ ^ browmsh lead-colored gray the tail is slightly touched with a dark reddish color near the extremity of some of the hairs ; the throat, breast be ly, and inner parts of the legs are of the color c^f a ta ! 11 U TV. ^ ""''^^ ''"P^ «f ^^^'^ commences behind ea h shoulder and enters longitudinally about three inches between the colors of the sides and belly. Their hab Us are precisely those of the small brown squ'Jrrel, anT like hem they are extremely nimble and active 24. There is also a species of squirrel, evidently distinct. best to let the :^:ls:.rzr:r? ci^T^'^i^T^ ' "" '- representat ve of our familiar ^J,;^i . ^^- ^'^'^ western .0;:, k™ b. j;iLr:, r;.T;'w4TiTj°""^ '^ ^'r^^- subsequently named S. ^,VW„,,°b, r>, iT' ? f *"*''"'"' •"■ ». «»-'^hough^x : rSe it ,Vh ,[l "" "' .'^'■'•■" '''^P"' ■ C'-'Ptain Lewis once rScpt. 7th, 804] pursued one ,0 the depth of ten feet but d,d not reach the end of the burrow. They [the prairie!dogs occupy „, th.s manner several hundred acresof ground ■ v2n rest the,r position is generally erect on their hind ee ad rump; they sit with much confidence, and bark at the .ruder as he approaches, with a fretful and harmless in.re! P.d.ty. The note resembles th.at of the little toy-dog- he yelps are n, qu.ck and angry succession, attended by rapil p. 30(, „t his Faona American,. ' ^- ""'""• ™ SEVVELLEL. 86 1 and convulsive motions, as if they [the animals] were deter- mined to sally forth in defense of their freehold. They feed on the grass of their village, the limits of which they never venture to exceed. As soon as the frost commences, they shut themselves up in their caverns, and continue [to hiber- nate] until the spring opens. The flesh of this animal is not unpleasant to the taste. 28. Sewcllel IHaplodon rufus '"] is a name given by the natives to a small animal found in the timbered country on this coast. It is more abundant in the neighborhood of the Great Falls and rapids of the Columbia than on the coast which we inhabit. The natives make great use of the skins of this animal in forming their robes, which they dress with the fur on, and attach them together with sinews of the elk «» The sewellel is one of the most remarkable animals discovered by Lewis and Clark. Fortunately they gave it a name by which it could be called, and which has passed into our language. I put it in the Century Dictionary in the form in which it here occurs, and which therefore may be accepted as the correct spell- ing. It will be observed that Captain Lewis never saw the animal itself, but only the robes made of its skin by the natives. It seems by the later researches of George Gibbs into the unspellable jargon of the Columbia River Indians, that " sewellel " is their name for the robes, mistaken by Captain Lewis for the name of the animal which furnishes the skin, and that the latter is "show'tl" in Nis- body are much shorter [read longer, as Clark R 98] on the sides and rump than those on any other part, which gives the body an ap- parent flatness, particularly when the animal rests upon his belly; the hair is upward of three inches in length, especially on the rump, where it extends so far toward the point of the tail that it conceals the shape of that part, and gives to the whole of the hinder parts of the body the appearance of a right-angled [acute-angled, Clark R 99] triangle, of which the point of the tail forms the acute angle ; the smMl quan- tity of coarse fur intermixed with the hair is of a pale red- dish-yellow. (A 17S) 30. The rat " which inhabits the Rocky moun- «» This account of " the rat " makes neither sense nor syntax ; it is so badly mangled from the codex that I can by no ingenuity so bracket the text so as to make it read as intended by the authors. I must therefore edit the codex, and annotate that. Clark R ,02. 103, Feb. 26th, 1806. has a perfectly intelligible ac^oMut oiNeotoma cinerea and N. Jloridana, but not a word of finding the ordmary house-rat " {Mus decumanus) anywhere on the Expedition. It is as follows : " The rat in the Rockey Mountain, on its waist [west] side, are like those m the upper part of the Missouri in and near those mountains and have the distmgu^hing trait of possessing a tail covered with hair like othe- parts of the body One of those we caught at the White Bear Islands in the beginning of Ju.y last [see note ", p. 400] and [it] was there described. I have seen the nest of those m the neighbourhood [Fort Clatsop], but not the animal. I think it most probable that they are like those of the Atlantic states or at least [by which I mean] the native rat {Neotoma floridana^ of our country which have no [such great development of] hair on the t.il [as A^. cinerea has]. This species [A^. ftortdana: see p. 11] we found on the Missouri as far up it as the woody coun ry extended ; it is as large as the common European house rat UTus decum- anus] or rather larger," etc. This is as clear as a bell. i. JVeotoma Jloridana the native wood-rat, which Lewis and Clark knew in the Atlantic States as different from the imported house-rat. and which they found extending up the I'S 864 f MOUSE— MOLE— PANTH KR. tains, like those on the borders of the Missouri in the neighborhood of the mountains, has the distin-uishintj trait of possessing a tail covered with hair like the other parts of the body [sec p. 400]. These animals are probably of the same species [genusj with those of the Atlantic States which have not this characteristic distinction ; the ordinary house rat we found on the banks of the Missouri, as far up as the woody country extends, and the rat, such as has beeti described [on p. 11 J, Captain Lewis found in the State ot Georgia, and also in Madison's cave in Virginia. 31. The mouse'" which inhabits this country are [is notl precisely the same with those which inhabit the United States. 32. The mole." This animal differs in no [in many aj respect from the species so common in the United States 33- The panther [cougar, Felis concolor'"] is found indiffer- ently, either on the great plains of the Columbia, the west- Missouri as far as the woody country-correct. 2. JVeotoma cinerca. which they first found at the Great Falls, with a hairy tail almost as bushy as a snui re S correct a.a.n 3. A rat about Fort Clatsop, which they never saw. C wh Lh they judged, from .ts nests, to be a species of NcoJa-.^^^, right fo7 he bushy-taded rat of the Pacific slope is A^. cinerea occUentaUs, a n^e'r VaX Wash. (Proc. Acad. Nat. Sci. Phila. 1855. p. 335). 4- The house-rat, Mus d^u- ... »«-merely mentioned for the purpose of contrasting N.floHdana wifh U ' Useless to attempt any identification of " the mouse." Several species of nat.ve m,ce. of more than one genus, occur in this region, none of h ch ° Xtt j;::r^ ^^ """''''""' '"'-'"'' °^ ^-^-■-- — ■— . of',:: " The common mole of the Columbia is Scapanus townsendi, which differs not only specfically but also generically fron. that of the eastern pirts of th Uni ed States. Scalop aquaUcus. But the distinctions are mainly Cranial and dell and would therefore not be likely to strike the casual obsen-er. This mole was firs technically named S.al.^s to..n.udii by the Rev. Dr. John Bachm an South c „„a (Journ. Acad. Nat. Sci. Phila. VIII. X839. p. 58). and dedicated to Mr. J k. Townsend. who wUh Mr. Thomas Nuttall. the distinguished bot amst col ected extensively of the fauna and flora of the Columbia. X834-3 The panther." Felis concolor^ whose name is often corrupted by mountain- eers .nto " pa.nter," would have been better called cougar or puma iTo winch are nat.ve South American names exclusively pertinent to thi's sp cies whde the panther .s the same as the leopard, an old-worid spot, d cat o 1 r^c 4 HARE. 865 em side of the Rocky mountains, or the coast of the Pacific. He is the .same animal that is so well known on the Atlantic coast, and most commonly found on the frontiers or unset- tied parts of our country. He is very seldom found ; and when found, so wary that it is difficult to reach him with a musket. 34. The hare [Lepus cainpestris'"^ on this side of the Rocky mountains inhabits the great plains of the Columbia. Eastward of those mountains they inhabit the plains of the Missouri. They weigh from 7 to 1 1 pounds. The eye is large and prominent ; the pupil is of a deep sea-green, occu- pying one-third of the diameter of the eye ; the iris is of a bright yellowish and silver color ; the ears are placed far back and very near each other, which the animal can, with surprising ease and quickness, dilate and throw forward, or contract and hold upon his back, at pleasure. The head, neck, back, shoulders, thighs, and outer part of the legs are of a lead color ; the sides, as they approach the belly, become gradually more white ; the belly, breast, and inner part of the legs and thighs are white, with a light shade of {p. lyg) lead color ; the tail is round and bluntly pointed, size, found in no part of America. Our cougar is ^^ lole-colored, and somewhat resembles a small lioness ; it is hence often known in the West as the mountain lion. Clark R 103, Feb, 27th, i8n6. "The large hare thus described (Clark R 104-IIO, Feb. 23th, 1806), is one of several species called " jack-rabbits" and "jackass-rabbit." in the West where they abound, and are conspicuous by reason of their size and the great length of their ears and limbs. This species is Lepus campcstyis, which turns white in winter, and is the characteristic form in Dakota, Montana, etc. It was origi- nally described by our authors, but wrongly treated by Dr. R. Harlan in his Fauna Americana, 1825, p. 310, as a mere variety of the American varying hare. L. virgtniamis. Dr. Richardson also considered it the same (Fn Bor - Am. I i8i9, p. 224). It was first described as distinct by Dr. Bachman. in the Journal of the Philadelphia Academy, VII. 1837, p. 3ao. where it is named as above. Two years afterward the same gentleman renamed it Z. town- scndn, in Vol. VIII. of the same Journal, and gave a figure (pi 2) In crossing the mountains Lewis and Clark no doubt met with that variety u" the varying hare which is now known to naturalists as Lepus americanus zvas/.: tngtomanus; but if so they did not distinguish it from the foregoing, though it is quite a different species. & fa- & » > ! il f i kh ^ 866 HARE— RABBIT— POLECAT. covered with white, soft, fine fur, not quite so long as on the other parts .f the body ; the body is covered with a deep, fine, soft, close fur. The colors here described are those which the animal assumes from the middle of April to the middle of November; the rest of the year he is pure white except the black and reddish-brown of the ears, which never ch.nge. A few reddish-brown spots are sometimes inter- mixed with the white at this season [February 26th, 1806], on the head and the upper part of the neck and shoulders. The body of the animal is smaller and longer, in proportion to Its height, than the rabbit's; when he runs, he conveys his tail straight behind in the direction of his body • he appears to run and bound with surprising agility and ease ; he ^s extremely fleet, and never burrows or takes shelter in the ground when pursued. His teeth are like those of the rabbit [cottontail, Lepus sylvaticus\ as is also his upper lip, which IS divided as high as the nose. His food is grass and herbs; ;n winter he feeds much on the bark of several aromatic herbs growing on the plains. Captain Lewis measured the leaps of this animal, and found them com- monly from 18 to 21 feet. They are generally found sepa- rate, and are never seen to associate in greater numbers than two or three. 35. The rabbit [Z.//.X '^^^^^"^'^ "'] is [not] the same with those of our own country ; it is found indifferently, either m the prairies or the woodlands, but is not very abundant 36. The polecat [skunk. Mephitis mephitica '«] is also found coZL'iW /''i' "'''? ^""'''l '"^ ^'"^'^ '''''' '" ^' '^' ^^-"^ '' '^^ ^""'"^on molly. sTTlT f "^ "^ '^' ^"''^^ ^'^'" '^ ^he sage-rabbit (Z. arJi. sta), which abounds m the sage-brush regions of the West. But their mistakes very natural and pardonable, as the two differ so little that naturalists X„ di P del l1 s^' T -„ different species, or only varieties of the sat named by Dr. Bachman, ,n the Journal above cited, VII. p. 345 pj 22 bv h m Z ";' "■ ""'' t '''"''""' ''''' ^'^°'"^^ ^""^" = - 'd was en'amed •« The animal called polecat, here and elsewhere in this work, is the common .kunk, MeM^ns .nepMtica ; but a skunk by any other name wouW smTthe i (I' SHARP-TAILED GROUSE. 867 m every part of this country. They are very abundant on some parts of the Columbia, particularly in the neighbor- hood of the Great Falls and narrows of that river, where they hve in the clifTs along the river, and feed on the offal of the Indian fisheries. They are of the same species as those found m the other parts of North America. The birds "Vhich we have seen between the Rocky moun- tarns and the Pacific may be divided into two classes the terrestrial and the aquatic. In the former class are to be arranged : (A/c?o) I. The [sharp-tailed] grouse or prairie-hen r/V^/^. cartes cohmibiamis\ This is peculiarly an inhabitant of the great plains of the Columbia, and does not differ from those of the upper portion of the Missouri. The tail is pointed the feathers in the center being much longer than those on the sides. This species differs essentially in the formation of the plumage from those [pinnated grouse, Tympanuchus amencanus} of the Illinois, which have their tales [tailsl composed of feathers of an equal length. In the winter sea- son this bird is booted to the first joint of the toes; the toes are curiously bordered on their lower edges with narrow hard scales which are placed very close to each other, and ex- tend horizontally about one-eighth of an inch on each side of the toes, adding much to the broadness of the feet-a secur ity which bounteous nature has furnished them for passing over the snows with more ease ; and what is very remark- able, in the summer season these scales drop from the feet. Th,s bird has four toes on each foot. The color is a mixture of dark brown, reddish- and yellowish-brown, with white con- fusedly mixed. In this assemblage of colors the reddish- brown prevails most on the upper parts of the body, wings and tail, and the white on the belly and the lower parts of same. The misnomer is a very common one. The polecat, properly so called is a European an.mal. not found in America, and a species of another gnusX'^ ::z Tz ••t ^^i" "°" "'^'^^'-"s '^-'g-''- °f the skunk is ih^:; ^Alaska sable." by which its manufactured pelts are known to commerce. Clark ''Clark R III, Fort Clatsop, March ist, 1806. !|4 r 1 f I * / ^ 868 COCK OF THE PLAINS. the breast and tail. These birds associate in large flocks in autumn and winter, and even in summer are seen in compa- nies of five or six. They feed on insects, grass, and leaves of various shrubs in the plains, and on the seeds of several species of speth " and wild rye, which grow in richer soils In winter their food consists of the buds of the willow and Cottonwood, and native berries. 2. The cock of the plains [sage-grouse, Centrocercus nro- phastanus^'^ is found on the plains of the Columbia in great abundance, from the entrance of the southeast fork of the Columbia to that of Clark's river. It is about 2% inches the size of our ordinary turkey." The beak is large, short, '» AV-read spilt. The description of the bird occupies Clark R 1x1-114 and on p 114 we read: "... seeds of several species of spilts and wild rie." kpilt or spelt IS properly a kind of cultivated wheat, Triticum spelta, of a different species or variety from T, sativum {vulgare). What plant Clark actually had m vew cannot be said. The wild rye mentioned is presumably a species of Eymus. The account of the bird is excellent ; it furnished the original basis of Fhasianus columbianus, Ord, Guthrie's Geogr., 2d. Am. ed. II 1815 P 317, whence y.atoccEtes columbianus of D. G. Elliot, Proc. Acad. Nat Sci p tt" TV' '^°^' '"'^ ^'d^"'"^'' phasianellus var. columbianus of Coues' Birds N.W. 1874, p. 40. which see for the relationships of the U. S. form to that of Arctic Ameri^=a, named by Linnc.„s Tetrao phasianellus (after G SZh '."/•• '^^^ ^"'^''^^y ^- ^-«-^^«- The question whether the Co umbian bird IS a species or a subspecies is still discussed : but is immaterial o the positive identification of L. and C.'s grouse here described, and already frequently mentioned on these pages. Clark's remark about the shedding of the fringes of the toes is an acute observation. Various other birds moult such horny appendages; some even shed the whole horny case of the beak penodically. Some mammals (lemmings) similariy drop overgrown parts of their " Another notable discovery of L. and C, already noticed in these pages, now omaly described; basis of Tetrao uropkasianus. Bonaparte, Zo5l.%;urn. HI. 1828, p. 214, and Am. Orn. III. 1830, p. 212, pi. 21, fig. 2 ; also, type of genus C.«/......«., Swainson, Fn. Bor.-Am. II. 1831. \. 358. ;ith pi y - /'nl ,."'"'' ''""'■^'' '^''' P"l'''shed. The designation "cock of the L Wk i r'i.'f ''''^'''""' ''"'''''"'' f'^""^ an excellent antithesis to cock of the woods, by which name the European capercaillie, Tetrao uro- gallus IS commonly known. The orig. descr. occupies Clark R 115-120 ■ the remark about the gizzard or " maw " is a close and correct observation. ' Clark R ""ft '^^""'- """'^' ""'°"' ''''°-'^'''^' '^' '''' °^ ^ '^'^'y" COCK OF THE PLAINS. 869 covered [feathered], and convex, the upper exceeding the lower chop ; the nostrils are large, and the back [beak is] black ; the color is a uniform mixture of a dark brown, re- sembling the dove's, and a reddish- and yellowish- (/. '181) brown, with some small black specks. In this mixture the dark brown prevails, and has a slight cast of the dove-color- the wider side [inner webs] of the large feathers of the wings are of a dark brown only. The tail is composed of 19 [20] feathers ; that [pair which is] inserted in the center is the longest ; the remaining nine on each side gradually diminish. The tail, when folded, comes to a very sharp point, and appears proportionately long, when compared with the other parts of the body. In the act of flying, the tail resembles that of the wild pigeon \_Ectopistes migratoriHs\ although tiie motion of the wings is much like that of the pheasant [ruffed grouse] and [other] grouse. This bird has four toes on each foot, of which the hindmost is the shortest ; the leg is covered with feathers to about half the distance between the knee [heel] and foot [bases of the toes]. When the wing is expanded there are wide openings between its [primary] feathers, the plumage [their webs] being too nar- row to fill up the vacancy ; the wings are short in compari- son with those of the grouse or pheasant. The habits of this bird resemble those of the [sharp-tailed] grouse, excepting that his food is the leaf and buds of the pulpy-leaved thorn [greasewood, Sarcobatus vermiculatus ; but sage-brush (species of Artemisia) probably meant]. Captain Lewis did not remember to have seen this bird but in the neighbor- hood of that shrub, which [but] they sometimes feed on the pnckly-pear. The gizzard is large, much less compressed and muscular than in most fowls, and perfectly resembles a maw. When this bird flies he utters a cackling sound not unlike that of the dunghill fowl. The flesh of the cock of the plains is dark, and only tolerable in point of flavor, being not so palatable as that of either the pheas- ant or grouse. The feathers about the head [neck] are pointed and stiff; short, fine, and stiff about the ears; at If ii 870 LARGE BLACK AND WHITE PHEASANT. / iU' ii i It i: the base of the beak several hairs are to be seen. This bird is invariably found in the plains. 3-5. The pheasant:" of which we distinguish the large black and white pheasant ; the small speckled pheasant ; the small brown pheasant. 3. The large black and white pheasant [adult male of Dendragapus frank/tni''*] differs but little from those of the United States; the brown is rather brighter and has a more reddish tint. This bird has 18 [usually 16] (/. 1S2) feathers in the tail, of about six inches in length. He is also booted to the toes. The two tufts of long black feathers, [one] on each side of the neck, so common in the male of this species [meaning the rufTed grouse, Bonasa iinibelliis] inhabiting the United States, are no less [read, are not at all] observable in this pheasant. The feathers on the body are of a dark brown, tipped with white and black, in which mixture the black predominates; the white [ones] are irregularly intermixed with those of the black and dark brown in every part, but in greater proportion about the neck, breast, and " No descriptions in L. and C. have teased naturalists more than those Iiere given of the three " pheasants." As they stand in the text, they are an odd jumble, utterly irreconcilable with what we know of these birds. I could make nothing of them in 1876, and gave the matter up, supposing the authors had written from memory and confused several species (see my remarks, Bull. U. S. Geol. Surv., 2d. ser., No. 6, Feb. 8, 1876, p. 440). Now I am pleased but not surprised to find that the only trouble is a mistakenly edited text ; the codices are all right, as usual. Correcting the original print by Clark R the difficulty vanishes, and our authors' meaning stands ou. in bold relief. See the following notes. '* The description, as it stood, mixed up characters of the genus Canace (or Dendragapus) with those of Bonasa. As it now stands, emended, we clearly recognize another discovery made by Lew!s and Clark. This bird was new to science in 1814 ; it was first technically named Tetrao franklini by David Douglas, who dedicated it to Sir John Franklin, in Linn. Trans. XVL 1829, p. 139. He had rediscovered it in the mountains of Washington and Oregon. Bonaparte figured the male in Am. Orn. \\\. 1830, pi. xxx, as a variety of Tetrao canadensis ; but the best figure is Swainson's, pi, Ixi. of the Fn. Bor.-Am. (1831, opp. p. 348). Clark R 121-124 is faithful and graphic— there is not a single clause of it irreconcilable with the characters of Franklin's grousp. It is true that he gives the tail-feathers as "18," the normal number ' ...g 16 ; but I 6P^ m SMALL SPECKLED PHEASANT. 871 belly ; this mixture makes this bird resemble much that kind of dunghill fowl which the housewives of our country call Domminicker [Dominique]. On the breast of some [speci- mens] of this species the white predominates. The [absences of] tufts on the neck leave a space about 2j4 inches long and one inch in width [on each side], where no feathers grow, though concealed by the plumage connected with the higher and under [hind and front] parts of the neck ; this space enables them to contract or dilate the feathers on the neck with more ease. The eye is dark ; the beak is black, curved, somewhat pointed, and the upper exceeds the under chop; a narrow vermilion stripe runs above each eye, not [very] protuberant, but uneven with a number of minute rounded dots [papillae]. This bird feeds on wild fruits, particularly the berry of the sacacommis, and exclusively resides in that portion of the Rocky mountains watered by the Columbia. 4. The small speckled pheasant [adult female, and young, of Detidragapus fraiiklini "] resides in the same country with the foregoing, and differs only in size and color. He is half the size of the black and white pheasant, associates know the number is exceptionally 18, or 14 (see my Key N. A. Birds, 1814, p. 578). The worst blunder of the text is in crediting the bird with tufts or tippets on the neck, like those of the ruffed grouse ; whereas Clark R 123 reads : " They are not furnished with tufts of long feathers on the neck as our pheasants \Bonasa umbellus] are," and then speaks of the bare spaces on the neck resulting from the absence of these ruffs ! Again, Clark R 122 says the marking of the bird " gives it very much the appearance of that kind of dunghill fowls which the henwives call dominecker"—?, very pat simile, for the blotches and chains of white spots in the black and dark brown recall that breed of poultry. Once more, as to the locality : Clark R 121 says that " this species is peculiar to that [part] of the Rocky mountains watered by the Columbia river, at least we did not see them after leaving the mountains "; clearly meaning the Bitter-root and other ranges of Idaho, where Franklin's grouse is a common and the most characteristic species of its genus. "Clearly so, by Clark R 124, 125, though the description is not so good as that of the male, and the sexual differences in size and color are somewhat exagger- ated. But they are very striking, as well illustrated on Swainson's pi. Ixii. repre- senting the female (supposed to be a variety of the Canada grouse). Mention of the dark meat serves to clinch the case, as in all the species of Bonasa the flesh is white. I; m 872 Sr/fALL BROWN PHEASANT. I'/ 4 Iftf ; in much larger flocks, and is very gentle. The black is more predominant, and the dark brown feathers are less frequent in this than in the larger species ; the mixture of white is more general on every part. This bird is smaller than our pheasant, and the body is more round. The flesh of both this species [and the preceding] is dark, and, with our means of cooking, not well flavored. [Clark R 124.] 5. The small brown pheasant [Oregon or red ruffed grouse, Bouasa umbelliis fuscus'"] is an inhabitant of the same country, and is of the same size and shape as the speckled (A 183) pheasant, which he likewise resembles in his habits. The stripe above the eye in this species is scarcely percepti- ble ; it is, when closely examined, of a yellow or orange color, instead of the vermilion of the other species. The color is a uniform mixture of dark yellowish-brown with a slight aspersion of brownish-white on the breast, belly, and feathers underneath the tail ; the whole appearance has much the resemblance of the common quail {^Ortyx virginiana\ This bird is also booted to the toes. The flesh of this is prefer- able to the other two [and that of the breast is as white as that of the Atlantic Coast, i. e., of the ruffed grouse, Bonasa iimbellus, Clark R 127]. 6. The buzzard [Californian vulture, PseudogrypJms cali- forniamis] is, we believe, the largest bird of North America. One which was taken by our hunters {i.e.. Shannon) was not in good condition, yet the weight was 25 pounds. Between '« No question in this case ; identification absolute, and consequently requir- ing a rectification of the synonymy of that variety of the ruffed grouse commonly called Bonasa umbellus sabinei. For L. and C. are the discoverers and first describers of the Oregon ruffed grouse ; and on the present paragraph was ex- clusively based the Tctnio fusca of Ord, Guthrie's Geog., 2d Am. ed. 1S15, II. p. 317. As I remarked in 1876, there was nothing in the original acjount which forbade us to suppose it intended for this bird ; though in the then un- certainty regarding L. & C.'s three "pheasants" I did not venture upon an identification of any of them. Now that all doubt has been removed by ex- amination of the codices, Ord's name must take its rightful priority ; and this grouse become known as Bonasa umbellus fuscus (Ord) Coues. (Mr. David Douglas did not describe his Tetrao sabini till 1829, in Trans. Linn. Soc. XVI. p. 137 : see my Birds N. W. 1874, p. 421.) GREAT BUZZARD OF THE COLUMBIA. 873 the extremities of the wings the bird measured 9 feet 2 inches ; from the extremity of the beal< to the toes, 3 feet gyi inches ; from the hip to the toes, 2 feet ; the circumference of the head was 9^ inches ; that of the neck 7>^ inches ; that of the body inclusive of [read exclusive of the wings, Clark P 122] 2 feet 3 inches ; the diameter of the eye 4^ tenths of an inch [note ", p. 712]. The iris is of a pale scarlet red, and the pupil of a deep sea-green. The head and part of the neck are uncovered by feathers ; the tail is composed of 12 feathers of equal lengths, each of the length of 14 inches ; the legs are uncovered and not entirely smooth. The toes are four in number, three forward, and that in the center much the longest ; the fourth is short, inserted near the inner of the three other toes, and rather projecting forward. The thigh [leg] is covered with feathers as low as the knee [heel] ; the tops or upper parts of the toes are imbricated with broad scales, lying transversely ; the nails are black, short, ard bluntly pointed. The under side of the wing is covered with white down and feathers ; a white stripe about two inches in width marks the outer part of the wing, embracing the lower points of the plumage covering the joints of the wing [/. e., tips of the wing-coverts] ; the remainder [of the plumage] is of a deep black. The skin of the beak and head to the joining (/. 184) of the neck is of a pale orange color ; the other part, destitute of plumage, is of a light flesh-color. It is not known that this bird preys upon living animals ; we have seen him feeding on the remains of the whale and other fish thrown upon the coast by the violence of the waves. This bird was not seen by any of the party until we had descended the Columbia river below the Great Falls. He is believed to be of the vulture genus, although the bird lacks some of the characteristics, particularly the hair on the neck and the plumage on the legs [of certain old world vultures. Above description in Clark P 122-124]. 7. The [Oregon] robin [Hesperocichla ncevia] is an inhabit- ant of the Rocky mountains. The beak is smooth, black, and convex ; the upper chop exceeds the other in length. I I»»i> •imf 874 OREGON ROBIN OR VARIED THRUSH. and a few small black hairs garnish the sides of its base ; the eye" is of a uniform deep sea-green color; the legs [tarsi], feet [toes], and talons [claws], are [not] white, of which the front one [toe], including the talon, is of the same length as the leg ; these [claws] are slightly imbricated, curved, and sharply pointed. The crown, from the beak to the neck, embracing more than half the circumference of the neck, the back, and tail, are all of a dark bluish-brown ; the two outer feathers of the tail are dashed with white near their tips, imperceptible when the tail is folded ; a fine black forms the ground of the wings ; two stripes of the same color pass on either side of the head from the base of the beak to the junction, and embrace the eye to its upper edge ; a third stripe of the same color passes from the side of the neck to the tip [carpal angle] of the wings and across the croop fbreastl, in the forni of a gorget ; the throat, neck, breast, and belly are of a fine brick-red, tinged with yellow ; a nari row stripe of this color commences just above the center of each eye and extends backward to the neck till it comes in contact with the black stripe before mentioned, to which it seems to answer as a border ; the feathers forming the first and second ranges of the coverts of the two joints of the wing next to the body are beautifully tipped with this brick- red, as is also each large feather of the wing, on the short side [outer webs] of its plumage [primaries], (p. /Sj) This beautiful little bird feeds on berries. The robin is an in- habitant exclusively of the woody country ; we have never heard its note, which the coldness of the season may per- haps account for. The leather-winged bat, so common to the United States likewise inhabits this side of the Rocky mountains. [A mis- placed paragraph, duplicated beyond.] 8. The crow [Corvus caurtnus] and [9. The] raven [Corvus "It is a personal peculiarity of the writer of this chapter to discover "sea- green " in the eyes (pupils) of various birds, all of whose pupils are black • and curiously also, he does not notice the green eyes (irides) of the cormorant de- scnbed beyond. HAWKS, OWLS, AND OTHER BIRDS. 875 carnivorus] h e:'oCtIy the same in appearance and note as that on the Atlantic, except that it [the crow] is much smaller on the Columbia. 10-12. The hawks too of this coast do not [in all cases] differ from those of the United States. We here see [10.] the large brown hawk [Buteo borealis calnrus or B. swain- soni\ [II.] the small or sparrow-hawk {Falco s/>arvcrhis], and [12.] one of an intermediate size [Ctrcits hudsonius\ called in the United States the hen-hawk, which has a long tail and blue wings, and is extremely fierce and rapid in its flight. The hawks, crows, and ravens are common to every part of this country, their nests being scattered on the high cliffs, along the whole course of the Columbia and its southeastern branches. 13. The large blackbird [blue-headed grackle, Scolecophagus cyatiocephalus ] is [not] the same with those of our country, and is found everywhere in this country. 14. The large hooting-owl [^Biibo virgiiiianus saturattis] we saw only on the Kooskooskee under the Rocky moun- tains. It is the same in form and size with the owl of the United States, though its colors, particularly the reddish- brown, seem deeper and brighter. 15-16. The turtle-dove [Zenaidura carolhiensis] and the robin \_Merula migratoria] (except the Columbian robin already described) are the same as those of the United States, and are found in the plains as well as in the common broken country. 17. The magpie [Pica pica hudsonica'\ is most commonly found A the open country, and resembles [is the same as] those of the Missouri, already described. 18-20. The large [pileated] woodpecker or laycor' [log- cock, Ceophloeus pileatiis\ the [red-shafted] lark-woodpecker \Colaptes mexicanus], and the common small [black and] white wood-pecker, with a red head {Sphyropicus ruber], are the inhabitants exclusively of the timbered lands, and [the first of these] difTer[s] in no respect from birds of the same species in the United States. [See also note to No. 28.] 11 m ■ i t ' 876 / LARKS, FLYCATCHERS, AND JAYS. ■( Pi (A 1S6) 21. The lark [SturfU'//a »r^A ..'."], which is found in the plains o-ily, and is not unlike what is called in Virginia the old-field lark [S. magna], is the same with those already described as seen on the Missouri. 22-23. The flycatcher is of two species. 22. The first is [the western winter-wren, Anorthura htcmahs pacificus] of a small body, of a reddish-brown color- the tail and neck are short, and the beak is pointed; some fine black specks are intermingled with the reddish-brown. Ihis IS of the same species with that which remains all win- ter m Virgmia, where it is sometimes called the wren. 23. The second species has recently" returned, and emi- grates dunng the winter. The colors of this bird are a yel lowish-brown on the back, head, neck, wings, and tail • the breast and belly are of a yellowish-white ; the tail is in th» same proportion as that of the wren [?], but the bird itself IS of a size smaller [larger?] than the wren; the beak is straight, pointed, convex, rather large at the base, and the chops are of equal length. The first species is smaller, and m fact the smallest bird which Captain Lewis had ever seen excepting the humming-bird [7>^r//z7?^.y f^/;/^rw.] Both of these species are found exclusively in the woody country 24, 25. Corvus." The blu- crested [jay, Cyanocittastdleri and C. s. annectens] and the small white-breasted \_Perisoreus '« Clark R 132, date of March 4th. This is perhaps a flycatcher of the genus l.npidonax ; but of what species we cannot conjecture. '» Two genera and more than two species of jays are here indicated, i The blue jay. with a crest, of the Columbian coast region, is Steller's. Cyanocitta 1'?v!'M"x>'''/^r'' ^°™= ^"'^ ''^« '^^' ^"'^"ds to the corresponding bird of the Rocky mountains, it brings in also the variety annectens 2 The small white-bieasted (misprinted "white-crested" in the M'Vickar ed U2) corvus might be take, for the Californian jay, Aphelocoma cali/ornua, which .s blue, with white under parts, and no crest. Jiut this species is not found in the pmy country of the northern mountains to which the text refers Hence by exclusion, we discover that a species of Perisoreus is ou. "small white-breasted corvus. That one which the explorers found in the mou 'ains of Idaho is P. canadensis capitalis, a variety of the familiar Canada jay, moose-bird, or wh,sky-jack. That whic' they found in the coast region is P. obscurus, tech- nically distinct, but so little different from the other that it has usually been regarded as the same. ' SNIPE AND WOODPECKERS. 877 canadensis capitalis and P. odsci/rus] corvus are both natives of the piny country, and invariably found as well on the Rocky mountains as on this coast. They have already been described. 26, 27. The snipe. The common snipe {Gallinago wil- soni or delicata] of the marshes, and the common sand- snipe [ Tringoides mncularins or Actitis macnlaria] are of the same species as those so well known in the United States. They are by no means found in such abundance here as they are on the coast of the Atlantic. The leathern-winged bat,"" so familiar to the natives of the United States, is likewise found on this side of the Rocky mountains. 28. The [black and] white woodpecker"' likewise frequents these regions, and reminds our party of their native country by his approaches. The head of this bird is of a deep red color, (/. 187) like that of the United States. We have con- jectured that he has lately returned, as he does not abide in this country during the winter. The large [pileated] wood- pecker \Ceophlmis pilcatiis\ and the [red-shafted] lark- woodpecker \Colaptes mcxicamcs], which are found in this country, resemble those of the United States. 29. The black woodpecker [Lewis', Asyndesmus torquatus'] is found in most parts of the Rocky mountains, as well as in '"Tins is a duplicated paragraph from p. 874, and very much out of place there and here alike, as a bat is not a bird. The case may simply be dropped, especially as the species of bat intended is not identifiable. "No "white" woodpeciter inhabits North America. There is a white- headed woodpecker {Xenopicus albolui-Tatus) in the Rocky mountains ; but tlie one above noticed is particularly said to have a deep red head. We must also observe that this whole paragraph is in substance a duplication of that on p. 875, where the same threa woodpeckers (Nos. 18-20) are noticed. Here, therefore, as before, for " white," I read " black and white "; and from the further mention of the red head I identify the species as Sphyropicus ruber. This idctitification is strengthened by the mention of the migratory habit of the bird ; for another black and white woodpecker of this region, with the head partly red, is Picus villoms harrisi, a stationary bird. The only entirely black (blue-black) and white woodpecker with an entirely red head is our familiar Mdanerpes erythrocephalus, which does not occur on the Columbia. V 878 lewis' WOOnrECKLR. the western and southwestern mountains. He is about the size of the larlc-woodpecker, or turtle-dove, though his wings are longer than the wings of either of those birds. Tlie beak is one inch in length, black, curved at the base, and sharply pointed ; the chops are the same in length [t. c, the under mandible equals the upper mandible in length] ; around the base of the beak, including the eye and a small part of the throat, there is a fine crimson-red : the neck, as low down as the crook [croop— breast] in front, is of an iron-gray ; the belly and breast present a curious mixture of white and blood-red, which has much the appearance of paint where the red predominates ; the top of the head, the back, the sides, and the upper surface of the wings and tail exhibit the appearance of a glossy green, in a certain exposure to the light ; the under sides of the wings and tail are of a sooty black ; the tail is equipped with ten feathers [and one pair of rudimentary feathers], sharply pointed, those in the center the longest, being about 2/2 inches in length ; the tongue is barbed and pointed, of an elastic and cartilaginous substance ; the eye is rather large, the pupil black, and the iris of a dark and yellowish-brown. The bird in its actions when flying resembles the small red-headed woodpecker [Mc/ancrpes erythrocephalus\ common to the United States and likewise in its notes. The pointed tail renders essential service when the bird is sitting and retaining his resting posi- tion against the perpendicular side of a tree. The legs and feet are black, covered with wide imbricated scales ; he has four toes on each foot, two in the rear and two in front, the nails of which are much curved and pointed remarkably sharp. He feeds on bugs and a variety of insects. [Clark Q 124-126, May 27th, 1806: see note ", p. 428.] (A 188) 30. The calamut [calumet] eagle [Aquila chrysa- etos ] sometimes inhabits this side of the Rocky mountains. This information Captain Lewis derived from the natives, in J^» Under date of March nth, 1806, Clark Q 57-60 has this description of the Callamet eagle, which has been copied or compiled repeatedly, by various writers, with more or less pertinent comment ; and the calumet eagle thus BASIS OF THE CALUMET EAGLE MYTH. 879 whose possession he had seen the plumage. These arc of the same species with those of the Missouri, and are the most beautiful of all the family of eagles in America. The colors are black and white, and beautifully variegated. The tail-feathers, so highly prized by the natives, are composed of twelve broad feathers of unequal lengths, which aie white, except within two inches of their extremities, where they immediately change to a jetty black ; the wings have each a large circular white spot in the middle, which is only visible when they are extended ; the body is variously marked with black and white. In form they resemble the bald eagle, but they are rather smaller, and fly with much more rapidity. This bird is feared by all his carnivorous competitors, which, on his approach, leave the carcass instantly, on which they had been feeding. The female breeds in the most inacces- sible parts of the mountains, where she makes her summer residence, and descends to the plains only in the fall and winter seasons. The natives are at this season on the watch ; and so highly is this plumage prized by the Mandans, Minne- tarees, and Ricaras, that the tail-feathers of two of these eagles will be purchased by the exchange of a good horse or gun, and such accouterments. Among the Great and Little Osages, and those nations inhabiting the countries where the bird is more rarely seen, the price is even double that above famed, has often been supposed to be a distinct species. Then, however, the trouble was to find any North American eagle which answered to the descrip- tion—the fact being that there is none. Just criticism of the passage clears up all doubts. 1st. The description is based primarily upon the common golden eagle of North America, Aquila chrysaetos. 2d. It is not accurate in all particulars. 3d. It includes a venerable vague tradition of the king vulture, Sarcorhamphus papa. 4th, and especially, any eagle whose tail-feathers suit an Indian for decorative purposes k ipso facto a. "calumet" eagle; and the bald eagle, Haliaelus leticocephalus, when it is changing its tail from black to white, answers the Indian's purpose as well as it does Lewis and Clark's description. I have myself more than once seen forlorn and dilapidated bald eagles cooped in Indian villages, having been taken from the nest to be reared and kept till they should acquire the party-colored tail-feathers desired for ornamentation. A " calumet eagle," zoologically speaking, is as much of a myth as the famous " wakon-bird"— though both be " great medicine." See pp. 138, 173, and notes there. I 1;^ J, 1 i II M * / -mam 880 HERON— HAWK— KINGFISHER— GULLS. (0 it mentioned. With these feathers the natives decorate the stems of their sacred pipes or calumets, whence the name of the calumet eagle is derived. The Ricaras have domesti- cated this bird in many instances, for the purpose of obtain- ing Its plumage. The natives, on every part of the conti- nent, who can procure the feathers, attach them to their own hair and the manes and tails of their favorite horses, by way of ornament. They also decorate their war-caps or bonnets with these feathers. (A iSp) As to the aquatic birds of this country, we have to repeat the remark that, as we remained near the coast during the winter only, many birds common both in the summer and autumn might have retired from the cold and been lost to our observation [Clark R 135]. We saw, how- ever, the large blue and brown herron [heron], the fishing- hawk, the blue-crested fisiier, several species of gulls, the cormorant, two species of loons, brant of two [three :' see on] kinds, geese, swan, and several species of ducks. 31. The large blue and brown herrons [herons, Ardeahero- diasl or cranes, as they are usually termed in the United States, are found on the Columbia below tide-water. They differ in no respect from the same species of bird in the United States.'' The same may be observed of 32. The fishing-hawk \_Pandion haliaetos carolinensis] with the crown of the head white, and the back of a mealy white and of ' Zl. The blue-crested kingfisher ICeryle alcyoii\ both of which are found everywhere on the Columbia and its tribu- tary waters ; though the fishing-hawk is not abundant, par- ticularly in the mountains. 34-37- Of gulls " we have remarked four species on the "''Large blue or brown herrons, or cranes" is an equivocal statement As, howt.er, the great blue heron, Ardea herodias. is very commonly miscalled ' crane m the United States ; and as, moreover, Lewis and Clark usually call the brown crane, Grtis canadensis, by its proper name, sand-hill crane, we may safely identify their bird as being the heron just said. e* Clark R 137, March 7th, 1806, has an account to be transcribed, as the Biddle text omits it : " There are 4 species of lar^s or Gull on this coast and II :\ CORMORANT— LOONS. 88 1 coast and the river, all [but one of them different from those which are] common to the United States. 38. The cormorant [P/ialacrocorax diloplnis cincinnatus] is, [imjproperly speaking, a large black duck that feeds on fish. Captain Lewis could perceive no difference between this bird and those ducks [cormorants] which inhabit the Potomack and other rivers on the Atlantic coast. He never remembered to have seen those inhabiting the Atlantic States so high up the river as they have been found in this quarter. We first discovered the corvus {sic — read cormor- ant] on the Kooskooskee, at the entrance of Chopunnish river; they increased in numbers as we descended, and formed much the greatest portion of the water-fowl which we saw. until we reached the Columbia at the entrance of the tides. The> abound even here, but be.-.r no proportion to the number of other water-fowl seen at this place. 39-40. The loon : there are two species of loons. 39. The speckled loon," found on every part of the rivers river, ist. A small species about the size of a pigeon, white except some black spots about the head & a little brown on the but [for butt, meaning the carpal angle] of the wings [«. e., Chroicocephalus Philadelphia, No. 34]. 2nd species somewhat larger, of a light brown colour with a whiteish or mealy coloured back \i. c\, young Lants glattcescens, No. 35]. 3d species, the large Gray Gull or white Larus with a greyish brown black [back] and light grey belly and breast about the size of a well grown pullet or rather larger ; the wings are remarkably long in proportion to the size of the body and its under chap towards the extrem- ity is more gibbous and protuberant than in either of the other species [i. e. , young Larus occidentalism No. 36] . 4th. A white gull about the size of the second with a remarkable [formation] adjoining the head and at the base of the upper chap. Their [this] is an elevated orning [for awning, meaning the nasal tubes] of the same substance with the beak which forms the nostrils," etc. Then reference is made to Journal No. 10 (Codex J), where at this date is a pen-and- ink figure of the head and beak of the Pacific fulmar petrel, Fulmarus glacialis glupischa, making No. 37. *' This is a species of Colymbus or Urinator, but may be any one of three or four. The bird actually meant, however, is probably the Pacific diver, C. or U. pacifictis, which is the commonest loon along the ^ oast of Oregon and California ; it is a very near relative of the black-throated diver, C. or U. arcticus. The common loon of the United States is C. torqiiatus or U. imber; the red-throated is C. septentrionalis or U. lumme. ' li If 882 WESTERN GREBE— WHITE BRANT. I [ ■ ^ 1' •■ ' 1' r' ' ' I- of this country. (/. igo) They are [nearly] of the same size, color, and form with those of the Atlantic coast. 40. The second species [of " loon " is the Western grebe, yEchmophorus Occident alls, '" which] we found at the falls of the Columbia, and thence downward to the ocean. This bird is not more than half the size of the speckled loon ; the neck is long, slender, and white in front ; the plumage on the body and back of the head and neck is of a dun or ash color; the breast and belly are white ; the beak is like that of the speckled loon ; and, like the loon, it cannot fly, but flutters along the surface of the water, or dives for security when pursued. 41-43- The brant are of three kinds: the white, the brown, and the pied. 41. The white brant [snow-goose, Chen hyper boreus'''\ are very common on the shores of the Pacific, particularly below the [tide-]water, where they remain in vast numbers during the wmter. They feed, like the swan and geese, on the grass, roots, and seeds which grow in the marshes. This bird is about the size of the brown brant, or a third less than the common Canadian wild goose ; the head is rather larger and tlie beak, thicker than that of the wild goose, shorter and of much the same form, but of a [pinkish-] yellowish- white color, except the edges of the chops, which are fre- quently of a dark brown. The legs and feet are of the same «« This is the original and an easily recognizable description of this bird, which was not formally characterized till many years afterward, when, in 1858 (Birds N. Am. p. 894), Mr. G. N. Lawrence, of New York, named it Podiceps occi- dentahs. I mstituted the genus ALchmophorus for its reception in 1862 (Proc Acad. Nat. Sci. Phila. p. 229). Lewis and Clark's statement that neither loons nor grebes can fly is erroneous. 8' Already repeatedly mentioned and unmistakably characterized in this work as the explorers found it in various parts of the Missourian and Columbian watersheds. It had already been long known to science, having been origin- ally described and figured in 1767 by Pallas (Spicilegia ZoOlogica, pi. 65) and Zoographia Rosso- Americana, II. 18x1, p. 227. The western species or variety IS smaller than that of the Atlantic States, and was named Ansey albatushy Cassm, Pr. Acad. Nat. Sci. Phila. 1856, p. 41. and i86i. p. 73. This is Pallas' bird, and the one L. and C. here have in view. m WHITE AND BROWN BRANT. 883 form [as those] of the goose, and of a pale flesh-color. The tail is composed of 16 feathers of the same length as those of the goose and brown brant are, and bearing about the same proportion in point of [their relative] lengths. The eye is of a dark color, and nothing remarkable in size. The wings are larger, when compared with those of the goose, but not so much so as in the brown brant. The color of the plumage is a pure uniform white, except the large feathers at the extremity of the wings, which are black ; the large feathers at the first joint of the wing, next to the body, are white. The note of this bird differs essentially from that of the goose ; it more resembles that of the brown brant, but is somewhat different ; it is like the note of a young domestic goose that has not perfectly attained its full sound. The flesh of this bird is exceedingly fine, preferable to either the goose or brown brant. (/. igi) 42. The brown brant \Bernicla brenta] are much of the same color, form, and size as the white, only that their wings are considerably longer and more pointed. The plumage of the upper part of the body, neck, head, and tail, is much the color of the Canadian goose, but somewhat darker, in consequence of some dark feathers irregularly scattered throughout ; they have not the same white on the neck and sides of the head as the goose, nor is the neck darker than the body ; like the goose, they have some white feathers on the rump at the joining of the tail ; the back is dark, and the legs and feet also dark with a greenish cast ; the breast and belly are of a lighter color than the back, and also irregularly intermixed with dark brown and black feathers, which give it a pied appearance. The flesh is darker and better than that of goose. The habits of these birds resemble those of the goose, with this difference, that they do not remain in this climate in such numbers during the winter as the other, and that they set out earlier in the fall season on their return to the south, and arrive later in the spring, than the goose. There is no dilTercnce between this bird and that called simply the If 884 PIED BRAN'l- AND OTHER GEESE. in brant, so common on the Lakes and on the Ohio and Mississippi. 43- The pied brant [Anscr a/di/rons ^a7n3eh] weigh about Sy: pounds; they differ from the ordinary pied [read brown] brant in their wings, which are neither so long nor so pointed. The base of the beak is for a little distance white, suddenly succeeded by a narrow line of dark brown • the remainder of the head, neck, back, wings, and tail all except the tips of the feathers, are of a bluish-brown [like that] of the common wild goose ; the breast and belly arc white, with an irregular mixture of black feathers, which give those parts a pied appearance [whence this goose is commonly called " speckle-belly " in California]. From the legs back underneath the tail, and around its junction with the body above, the feathers are white. The tail is com- posed of 18 feathers, the longest in the center, measurinne usually called " flounder." It attains a weight of 15 to 20 pounds, and aloneconstitiiH'shalf the catch of the Pacific coast flounders. (See Jordan and Goss, Rep. Comni. Fish, 1886, p. -'97.) '" A pernicious activity of various mistjuided ichthyologists has resulted in making more than 30 nominal species, of several baseless <;cnera, of Pacific coast Salmonidcc, all but five species of one genus of which are now allowed by judicious naturalists to lapse into innocuou- desuetude, as the alleged specific characters have proved to be simply variations due to sex, age, season, and the i Is li 892 SALMON— RED CHAR. fM jaws arc armed with a sin^Me series of long teeth, which are subulate and inflected near the extremities of the jaws, where they are also more closely arranged ; there are some sharp teeth of smaller size and some sharp points [sic, read and same shape, Clark Q 65] placed on the tongue, which is thick and fleshy. The fins of the back are two ; the first is placed nearer the head than the ventral fins, and has several rays ; the second [the adipose fin] is placed far back, near the tail, and has no rays. The flesh of this (/. ipy) fish, when in order, is of a deep flesh-colored red, and of every shade from that to an orange yellow ; when very meager it is almost white. The roes of this fish arc in high esti- mation among the natives, who dry them in the sun, and preserve them for a great length of time ; they are of the size of a small pea, nearly transparent, and of a reddish- yellow cast ; they resemble very much, at a little distance, our common garden currants, but are more yellow. Both the fins and belly of this fish are sometimes red, particularly in the male. 6. The red char [blue-backed salmon, Oncorhynchiisncrka] are rather broader, in proportion to their length, than the common salmon. The scales are also imbricated, but rather larger ; the rostrum exceeds the under jaw more, and the teeth are neither so large nor so numerous as those of the fresh or spent condition of the fish. The single genus is Oncorhynchm, whose five established species are : i. 0. chavicha or quhniat, the cpiinnat or king salmon, most properly so called, and the salmon of the Columbia, as always understood when no other is specified. It ranks easily first in commercial im- portance ; many millions of pounds' weight are anually taken on the Columbia alone. This is the "common salmon" of our text (No. 5). 2. O. tierka, the blue-backed salmon, of a silvery color, blue on the back, ranking second in commercial value. In the fall the males redden, and are known in the interior as the redfish. This is the ' ' red char " of our text (No. 6). See note », p. 545 which would have been better placed on p. 493, as the salmon there mentioned was doubtless this species. 3. O. kisutch, the silver salmon. This is the " white salmon-trout '• of our text (No. 7). 4. O. keta, the dog-salmon. 5. O. gorbttscha, the hump-backed salmon. Excepting the first, these are all rather small fishes of from three to six or eight pounds' weight ; but the quinnat averages over 20, and has been known to attain a weight of 100 pounds. SALMON-TROUT OF TWO Sl'KCIKS. 893 [quinnat] salmon. Some of these chars are almost entirely red on the belly and sides; others are much more white than the salmon, and none of them are variegated with the dark spots which mark the body of the other [the quinnatj ; their flesh, roes, and all other particulars, with regard to their form, are those of the salmon. 7, 8. Of the salmon-trout we observe two species, differ- ing only in color ; they are seldom more than two feet in length, and narrow in proportion to their length, much more so than the salmon or red char, [7. Oncorhynchus kisutc/i, the silver-salmon."'] In the first species the jaws arc nearly of the same length, and are furnished with a single series of small straight subulate teeth, neither so long nor as large as those of the salmon. The mouth is wide ; the tongue is also furnished with some teeth ; the fins are placed much like those of the salmon. At the Great Falls [of the Columbia] we found this fish of a silvery-white color on the belly and sides, and a light bluish-brown on the back and head. [8. Salmo gairdncri, the steelhead salmon trout.""] The second species is of a dark color on its back ; its sides and belly are yellow, with transverse "The accounts of the two species of "salmon-trout," one of the genus Salmo itself, and the other of Oncorhynchus, are so dovetailed together that they cannot be well disengaged in separate paragraphs without too much transposition. The paragraph is therefore left to stand as in the original text. There is no real ambiguity if the sentences are duly weighed ; though I think that the sentence beginning "The Indians," etc., is an interpolation which belongs elsewhere. The white "salmon-trout" of the text (No. 7) is no other than the well-known silver salmon, Oncorhynchus kisutch. It is recognizably described in print ; and it is figured unmistakably in Lewis J 133. See last and next note. '" Lewis and Clark's dark-colored salmon-trout (No. 8) was identified by Sir John Richardson with a fish taken by Dr. Oairdner from the Katpootl or Cathla- pootl (now Lewis') river, and named Salmo clarkii, Fn. Bor.-Am. III. 1S36, p. 224, in honor of Captain Clark, its original describer. The same author, in the Addenda on Fishes, p. 308, notes that his S. clarkii is probably the same fish as the ultai of new Caledonia. (See Suckley, P. R. R. Reps. XII. pt. ii. i860, p. 344, where S. clarkii is treated as a distinct species.) The common steelhead is, however, specifically identical with Richardson's S. gairdneri, Fn. Bor.-Am. III. 1836, p. 221; and the latter name is now adopted. Ill ^r^^m^- 1 1 ' I I .d l. I 894 SALMON-TROUT— SPECKLED TROUT— BOTTLENOSE. Stripes of dark brown ; sometimes a little red is intermixed with these colors on the belly and sides toward the head. The eye, flesh, and rce are like those described of the salmon. The white species [No. 7], found below the falls were m excellent order when the salmon were entirely out of season and (/. ig8) not fit for use. They associate with the red char in little rivulets and creeks. The Indians say that the salmon begin to run early in May. This white salmon-trout is about 2 feet 8 inches long, and weighs 10 pounds. The eye is moderately large ; the pupil black, with a small admixture of yellow; iris of a silvery white a little turbid near its border with a yellowish-brown. The fins are small in proportion to the fish ; they are bony but not pointed, except the tail [caudal] and back [dorsal] fins which are pointed a little; the prime back [first dorsal] fin and the ventral [anal] fin contain each 10 rays, those of the gills [pectorals] 13, that of the tail 12; the small [adipose] fin, placed near and above the tail, has no bony rays, but is a tough, flexible substance covered with smooth skin ; it is thicker in proportion to its width than in the salmon ' The tongue is thick and firm, beset on each border with small subulate teeth in a single series ; the [jaw-] teeth and the mouth are as before described. Neither this fish nor the salmon is caught with the hook, nor do we know on what they feed. 9- The mountain or speckled trout [Sa/mo purpuratus-\ i:.o found in the waters of the Columbia within the moun- tains; they are the same with those found in the upper part of the Missouri, [see note-, p. ^Gy] but are not so abundant in the Columbia as in that river. We never saw this fish below the mountains ; but, from the transparency and cold- ness of the Kooskooskee, we should not doubt of its exist- ence in that stream as low as its junction with the southeast branch [LewLs' river] of the Columbia. 10. The bottlenose is the same with that before mentioned [p. 458] on the Missouri, and is found exclusively within the mountains. [Perhaps Cutostomus lo?ioirostris.'] THIS ANCHOVY IS THE CANDLE-FISH. 895 II. The anchovy {Thaleickthys pacificiis''^\ which the natives call olthen, is so delicate a fish that it soon becomes tainted unless pickled or smoked. The natives run a small stick through the gills and hang it up to dry in of the smoke .'^eir lodges, or kindle small fires under it for the purpose of V lying. It needs no previous preparation of gutting, and will be cured in twenty-four hours. The natives do not appear to be very scrupulous about eating them when a little fetid. li U; " In the orig. ed. this paragraph on the " anchovy " appears on p. 201 of Vol. II., at the end of the chapter, separated from the rest of the fishes by the mollusks, reptiles, etc. I transpose it to its proper connection. If it were an an- chovy, the species might be that described as Engraulis viordax by Girard, Proc. Acad. Nat. Sci. Phila. VII. 1854, pp. 138, 154, and P. R. R. Rep. X. 1859, p. 333; also treated by Suckley in the same Report, XII. pt. ii. 1860, p. 365 ; novir known as Stolephorus niordax. But it is no anchovy ; olthen is the same word as uthlecan or eulachon, which is an entirely different fish — the candle- fish, Thaleickthys pacijictis. It is surprising that no description is here given of this remarkable fish, which has been already mentioned in these pages, and is described zx^A figured in the codices. The candlefish, so named from its fatness, is a small salmonoid related to and resembling the caplin {Mallotiis villosus). It was unknown to science when discovered by L. and C. ; it was first technically named Salmo {Mallotus) pacificus by Sir John Richardson in 1836 in the Fauna Boreali-Americana, and later described as Thaleickthys stevensi by Girard, P. R. R. Rep. X. 1859, p. 325, pi. Ixxv. figs. 1-4 (as Osmenis stevensi) : see also Suckley, op. cit. p. 348, and same pl.ate. The original description occupies Clark R 80-84, Feb. 24th, 1806, as follows; "Sturgeon and a Species of small fish which now begin to run, and are taken in great quantities in the Columbia river, about 40 miles above us by means of skiming or scooping nets. See likeness Jour- nal 10 [Codex J 93, where Lewis copies the description and where is a full length figure] which I have drawn with my pen, and will serve to give a general Idea of the fish the rays of the fins are bony but not sharp, tho' some vhat pointed, the small [adipose] fin on the back next to the tail has no rays of bone being a thin membranis pellicle, the fins next to the gills have li rays each those of the abdo- men have eight each, those of the pinna ani are 20 & 2 half formed in front, that of the back has 11 rays all the fins are of a white colour the back is of a dusky bluish colour, and that of the lower parts of the sides and belly is of a Silvery White, no spots on any Part the first bone of the gills next behind the eye is of a bluish cast and the second of a light golded colour nearly white, the puple of the eye is black and the iris of a silver white the under Jaw exceeds the upper, and the mouth opens to great extent, folding like that of the herring it has no teeth, the abdomen is obtuse and smothe in this differing from the herring, shad, anchovy ivc. of the Mallacapterygious Order and class clupia, to which however I think it more nearly allied than to any other, altho' it has not 1 ■.'■ ■'\ li f 896 SIIEI,LFrsiI. Of shellfish [mollusksj wc observe the clam, periwinkle, common mussel, cockle, and a species \_Placunanomia macro- sc/iisma] with a circular, fiat shell. I. The clams \Mytilus cdidis ] of this coast are very small; the shell consists of two valves, which open with hinnres ; it is smooth, thin, of an oval form like that of the common mussel, and of a sky-blue color. It is about xy. inch in length, and hangs in clusters to the moss [seaweed] of the rocks; the natives (/>. igg) sometimes eat them. 2. The periwinkles,"" both of the river IMcianndcc, Limnce- their acute an.l serrate abdomen, and tlie under Jaw exceeding the upper the sc.ile.sof this little lish are so small an,l thin, that without minute inspection' vou >vould suppose they h.a.l none, they arc tille.l with roes of a pure white colour an, ],:ue scarcely any alimentary Duck [duel] I find them best when cooked in Imlianslde which is by roasting a number of them together on a wooden spit without any "revious Preparation whatever, they are so soft that they require no additional sauce. 1 think them superior to any fish I ever Lasted, even more delicate ami lucious than the white lish \Core:^^,m,s\ of the lakes, which hereto- fore formed my standard of excellence among the fishes." The sturgeon mentioned in the beginning of this extract is also singularly omitted m the present instance, by editorial oversight. It has been heretofore noticed in these jwgcs. as one of the important food-fishes. and should have been here formally introduced, as the codices have much to say about it. and it is a distinct species which w.is new to science in 1806-another of the many un credited discoveries of our almost inexhaustible authors. The Columbia sturgeon was first formally characterized as ^icipntser tnmsmontanus, by Richardson I'n. Hor.-Am. III. 1836. p. 27S. pi. xcvii. fig. 2, and has since been treated bJ unnumbered authors. It .att.ains a length of 10 to 15 feet, runs far up the C olumbia aiul even the Snake river, and has great commercial value. '»" The " clams" of the text are evidently this species of salt-w£iter mussels of the family MytiUd.T, as we see by the statement of their hanging in clusters on 'the rocks, whereas clams, properly so called, live in the sand and spin no byssus Vox certain species of Mytilus, see also note •«. p. 731. A notable true clam of Ore- gon and W ashingfon is a species of Mactruhr, named Liitraria maxima by Mid- dendorfT Heit Mai. Russ. III. 1849. p. 66. pi. xix. figs. 1-4. and Z. capax by Dr. A. A. Could, Proc. Host. .Soc. Nat. Hist. III. 185.), p. 217. This is of large si/.e, up to 7^ inches in width, very abundant, and an important article of food with the Indians, who preserve the meat by drying and smoking it in their lodges ^' Periwinkles, most i)roperly so called, are small se.a-snails of the family Ltttorinui^, and particularly of the genus Z//^;-/;/,,. several species of which are found on the Oregon and Washington coasts, as Z. sitcluma and Z. scutulata Hut the name is loosely applic- as ''.e extreme end, and is convex and globular, bearing at its center some short, broad, and angular fibers ; the substance is about the consistence of the rind of a citron melon, and three-quarters of an inch thick ; the rind is smooth. From the small extremity of the cone a long, hollow, cylindric, and regularly tapering tube extends to 20 and 30 feet, and is then terminated with a number of branches, which are flat, half an inch in width, and rough, particularly on the edges, where they are furnished with a number of little ovate vesicles, or bags, of the size of a pigeon's c^^. This plant "" Here the reference is to fresh-water bivalves of the family Unionida. Amoni; the Oregon and Washington members of this family are a species of Mar^aritana identified with M. margaritifera by various authors, and several of Anodonta, as A. aiigulata, A. ori'gonriisis, and A. wa/i/ametirnsts of Dr. Isaac Lea. The most notable .species is A. lutttalliana. ^^^ Pliuunanomia iiiacrosihi.njia, a bivalve of the family Anomiidit. The " under shell " of the text is the small (right) valve, with a hole near the hinge. k 898 vSEAWEEL —REPTILES — SNAIL. '.t seems to be calculated to float at each extremity, while the little end of the tube, whence the branches proceed, lies deepest in the water. [This is Nereocystis lutkcana.'] The other [same?] species, seen on the coast toward the Killamucks, resembles a large pumpkin ; it is solid, and its specific gravity is greater than water, though it is sometimes thrown out by the waves. It is of {p. 200) a yellowish-brown color; the rind is smooth, and its consistence is harder than that of the pumpkin, but easily cut with a knife. There are some dark brown fibers, rather harder than any other part, which pass longitudinally through the pulp or fleshy sub- stance which forms the interior of this marine production. [Among] the reptiles of this country are the rattlesnake [Crotalus lucifer\ the garter-snake, the lizard, and snail.'" The garter-snake lEtitcenia picker ingi or concinnd] appears to [does] belong to the same family iColHbridce\ with the common garter-snakes of the Atlantic coast ; and, like those snakes, they inherit no poisonous qualities. They have 160 "^ Comment is needless on the disorder of this chapter, at a climax here where reptiles come after jellyfishes and seaweeds, which latter themselves should have appeared in the botanical division instead of coming between acaicphs and snakes. I have already noted my transfer of one fish (anchovy or c.Then) from the tail of the chapter to a more suitable connection ; but I do not like to transfer the herpetological matter, as to do so would throw out the original pagmation, scrupulously preserved in the present edition. Yet I cannot forbear to stigmatize the blunder of including the " snail "-which every school-child knows to be a mollusk-among reptiles, and then saying nothing about it. For all I can discover, this haj)pened simply because it is described in Clark R 116 and Lewis J 123 in connection with certain reptiles. The notice is an important one ; " The snail is numerous in the woody country on this coast ; these are in shape like those of the United States, but are at least five times their bulk " H.-re is the original description of Hdix JiJelis, J. E. Gray, Proc. Zofll. Soc London, 1834, p. 67, of which L. and C. were the discoverers. In connection with this land-snai', I may call attention to a remarkable sea- snail of this region, Nutica (or Lunjtia) Icwisi, a fine large species representing on the Pacific Coast our common Atlantic N. (or L!) heros. This was first named and dedicated to Captain Lewis by Dr. A. A. Gould, Proc. Bost. Soc. Nat. Hist. II. 1847. 1,. 230, and thus two years before iMiddendorff rename.l it N^ntica kcradea, in his Jkit. M.-.!. Russ. II. 1849, p. 97, pi. vii. figs. 5 6 7 "The name of the first explorer and collector in Oregon merited such a pe-- petuation," .ays Dr. Wm. Cooper, P, R. R. Rep, XII. pt. ii, p. 373 i860 'il GARTER-SNAKE — HORNED LIZARD. 899 scuta on the abdomen, and 70 on the tail ; those on the ab- domen, near the head and jaws, as high as the eye, arc of a bluish-white, which, as it recedes from the head, becomes of a dar'c brown ; the field of the back and sides is black ; a narrow stripe of a light yellow runs along the center of the back ; on each side of this stripe there is a range of small transversely oblong spots of a pale brick-red, diminishing as they recede from the head, and disappearing at the com- mencement of the tail. The pupil of the eye is black, with a narrow ring of white bordering on its edge ; the remainder of the iris is of a dark yellowish-brown. The horned lizard {^Phrynosoma douglast], called, and for what reason we never could learn,'" the prairie buffalo, is a native of these plains, as well as those on the Missouri. They are of the same size, and much the same in appearance as the black lizard ; "" the belly is, however, broader, the tail shorter, and the action much slower. The color is generally "" Obviously from its horns, and from the way it hunches or humps itself up when irritated. "A species of Lizzard call[ed] by the French engages prarie buffaloe are native of these [Columbian] plains as well as those of the Missouri. I have called them the horned lizzard," Clark Q 132, May 29th, 1806. '<" This species has never been identified, as the text furnished no clew what- ever. It is twice noticed in the codices. " The dark lizzi-d we Saw at the com- mencement of the woody Country, below the great narrows and falls of the Columbia," Clark R 162. " the black or dark brown lizard we saw at the rock fort Camp [Dalles] at the commencement of the woody Country, below the great narrows and falls of the Columbia ; they are also the same with those of the United States." A species of the same size as the horned lizard, and not dis- tinguished by the authors from the lizard with which they were familiar in Vir- ginia {Sceloporus undulatus, the common brown fence-lizard), may be identifi- able as Sceloporus occidentalis or S. graciostts, both of which are known to occur at the Dalles. In this connection I must call attention to one of the many serious omissions 1 rom the text of this chapter of species described in the codices, among which is one of those remarkable tailed hatrachians which are popularly known as " fish with legs." Lewis J 123 has : " There is a sjjecies of water lizzard of which I saw one only just above the gr".;= I rapids of the Columbia, it is about 9 inches long the body is reather flat lud i! 'jut the size of a mans finj^ - covered with a soft skin of a dark brown coL jr > ; \ an uneven surface covered with little pimples the neck and head are short, tb . .atter terminating in an accute angular point and flat, the forefeet each four toes, tlie hinder ones five unconnected with a web 900 BLACK LIZARD— WARTY SALAMANDER. I ' li.! brown, intermixed with yellowish-brown spots. The animal is covered with minute scales, interspersed with small horny pomts, like blunt prickles, on the upper surface of the body ; the belly and throat resemble those of the frog, and are of a light yellowish-brown ; the edge of the belly is likewise beset with small horny projections, imparting to those edges a ser- rate appearance. The eye is small and dark; above and behind the eyes there are several projections of the bone ; their ex- (/. 201) tremities being armed with a f^rm black substance, they resemble the appearance of horns sprouting from the head. These animals are found in greatest num- bers in the sandy open plains, and appear in the greatest abundance after a shower of rain. They are sometimes found baskmg in the sunshine, but conceal themselves in httle holes of the earth in much the greatest proportion of the time. This may account for their appearance in such numbers after rain, as their ^.oles may thus be rendered untenantable. and destitute of tallons. it's tail was reather longer than the body and in form hke that of the Muskrat, first rising in an arch higher than the back and decending ower than the body at the extremity, and flated [flattened] perpendicularly the be ly and under part of the neck and head were of a brick red every other part of the colour of the upper part of the body or dark brown, the mouth was smooth, without teeth." This description answers accurately to the characters of the warty salamander of Oregon and Washington-yet another hitherto un- recognized discovery of Lewis and C\o.rk'.- Triton torosus of Eschscholtz. Zool Atlas V 1833, p. 12, pi. xxi. fig. 15 ; T. granulosus of .Skelton. Amer. Tour Sc. VIL 1849, p. 202 ; Notophthaimus torosus, Baird, Journ. Acad. Nat Sci Phila L 1850. p. 254 ; Taricha torosa, J. E. CIray, Cat. Amphib. Brit. Mus* IT. 1S50, p. 25, and Girard, U. S. Expl. Exped. Merpet. 1858, p. 5 ; called also Molge torosiu, and now known as Diemyctylus torosus, i :• II; \l i CHAPTER XXVI. HOMEWARD BOUND ON COLUMBIAN TIDE-WATER, Alarm felt for means of subsistence at Fort Clatsop— Determination to expedite the retl»n journey— Clothing siilTicient, but little merchandise left— Weather-bound— Chief Como- wool— Chief Delashelwilt— Certificates— Muster-rolls and other papers left with the Indians — Oflicial bulletin posted at I'ort Clatsop reaches Philadelphia via Canton— Fort Clatsop evacuated March 23d, 1806— Meriwether Bay left— Point William doubled— Cathlamah village— Seal islands— Canoe claimed, but a compromise effected— Clatsops, Skilloots, and Cathlamahs— Camp on a small creek— Chief Wallale— Chief Sahawacap— Fanny's island— Skillrjots-Coweliskee river— llullooetells— Deer island— Quathlapotles—T owah- nahiooksorChawahnahiooks river— Quathlapotle island— Frogs and snakes— Wappatoo island— Clanaminimums, Claxtais, Cathlacumups, Clahnaquahs, Multnomalis, and Shotos— Image-canoe island— Shahalas— Diamond and White Brant islands— Quicksand and Seal rivers -Mt. Hood sighted— Unwelcome news— Halt to hunt for provisions— Cashooks— Captain Clark's exploration of the Multnomah river, and report— Nechacolees and Neer- chokioos— Mts. Regnier, St. Helen's, Ho«d, and Jefferson sighted— Clackamos and Ncmal- quinners— Cashooks, Neerchokioos, Shahalas, and Nechacolees— An Indian map copied and preserved— The Expedition in camp opposite Quicksand (Sandy) river. y^lVARCH 22d, 1806.' Many reasons had determined us ^ "*^ to remain at Fort Clatsop till the 1st of April, Besides the want of fuel in the Columbian plains, and the imprac- ticability of passing the mountains before the beginning of June, we were anxious to see some of the foreign traders, from whom, by means of our ample letters of credit, we might have recruited our exhau,sted stores of merchandise. About the middle of March, however, we had become seriously alarmed for the want of food ; the elk, our chief dependence, had at length deserted their usual haunts in our ' The Biddle narrative is here resumed from the same date. Mar. 22d, on p. 792, where it was dropped to intercalate my new Chap. .\xiv., between Biddle's Chaps, xxiii. and xxv. At present date some of the matter given in regular diary form in Chap, xxiv, is summarily retraversed ; but that could only have been avoided by cutting out the end of Chap, xxiii. and the i)eginning of the present chapter — which of course would have been objectionable. One of the Clatsop codices, Clark I, ended with Jan. 29th ; the other, Lewis J, with Mar. 20th ; both will have been disposed of as soon as certain matters, drawn from entries in Lewis J relating to the evacuation of the fort, are finished. The narrative then proceeds from Mar. 23d with a new codex, Lewis K, running Mar. 2ist-May 23d, 180C. * 1 902 READY TO LEAVE FORT CLATSOP. I :■: neighborhood and retreated to the mountains. We were too poor to purchase other food from the Indians, so that we were sometimes reduced, notwithstanding all the exer- tions of our hunters, to a single day's provision in advance. The men, too, whoni the constant rains and confinement had rendered unhealthy, might, we hoped, be benefited by leav- ing the coast and resuming the exercise of traveling. We therefore determined to leave Fort Clatsop, ascend the river slowly, consume the month of (p. 20j) March in the woody country, where we hoped to find subsistence, and in this way reach the plains about the 1st of April, before which time it will be impossible to attempt crossing them ; for this pur- pose we began our preparations. During the winter we had been very industrious in dress- ing skins, so that we now had a sufficient quantity of cloth- ing, besides between 300 and 400 pairs of moccasins. But the whole stock of goods on which we are to depend, for the purchase either of horses or of food, during the long tour of nearly 4,000 miles, is so much diminished that it might all be tied in two handkerchiefs. We have in fact nothing but six blue robes, one of scarlet, a coat and hat of the United States Artillery uniform, five robes made of our large flag, and a few old clothes trimmed with ribbon. We therefore feel that our chief dependence must be on our guns, which for- tunately for us, are all in good order, as we had taken the precaution of bringing a number of extra locks, and one of our men proved to be an excellent artist in that way. The powder had been secured in leaden canisters, and though on many occasions they had been under water, it remained per- fectly dry, and we now found ourselves in possession of 140 pounds of powder, and twice that quantity of lead, a stock quite sufficient for the route homeward. After much trafficking, we at last succeeded in purchasing a canoe for a uniform coat and half a carrot of tobacco, and took a canoe from the Clatsops, as a reprisal for some elk which some of them had stolen from us in the winter. We were now ready to leave Fort Clatsop, but the rain pre- THE CLATSOP HULLETIN POSTED. 903 vented us for several days from calking the canoes, and we were forced to wait for calm weather before we could attempt to pass Point William. In the meantime we \\ re visited by many of our neighbors, for the purpose of taking leave of us. The Clatsop [chief] Commowool has been the most kind and hospitable of all the Indians in this quarter ; we therefore gave him a certificate of the kindness and at- {p. 204) tention which we had received from him, and added a more substan- tial proof of our gratitude, the gift of all our houses and fur- niture. To the Chinnook chief Delashelwilt we gave a cer- tificate of the same kind ; we also circulated among the natives several papers, one of which we also posted up in the fort, to the following effect : "T/ie object of this list is, that through the mcditim of some civilized person, zvho may see the same, it may be made knoivn to the world, that tite party consisting of the persons whose names are hereunto annexed, and who were sent out by the Govern- ment of the United States to explore the interior of the con- tinent of North America, did penetrate the same by the way of the Missouri and Cobimbia rivers, to the discharge of the lat- ter into the Pacific ocean, where they arrived on the i^th day of November, iSos, and departed the 23d day of March, 1806, on their return to the United States by the same route by which they had come out." ' * * This paper is given literally from Lewis J 137, on p. 816, which see. The date of Nov. 14th, assigned in the document as that of reaching the Pacific Ocean, is that on which Captain Lewis, having left the main party camped inside Point Ellice, went on to Cape Disappointment. See p. 708. * By a singular casualty, this note fell into the possession of Captain Hill, who, while on the coast of the Pacific, procured it from the natives. This note accom- panied him on his voyage to Canton, whence it arrived in the United States. The following is an extract of a letter from a gentleman at Canton to his friend in Philadelphia : ' Extract of it letter from to , iti Philadelphia. ''' CiPcmiOA, January, 1807. " I wrote you last by the Governor Strong, [Captain] Cleveland, for Poston ; the present is by the brig Lydia, [Captain] Hill, of the same place, "Captain Hill, while on the coast, met some Indian natives near the mouth 904 FORT CLATSOP EVACUATED. 'V ! It J' 'ili I) On the back of some of these papers we sketched (/. 2oj) the connection of the upper branches of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, with our route, and the track which we intended to follow on our return. Tliis memorandum was all that we deemed it necessary to make ; for there seemed but little chance that any detaile.l report to our govern- ment, which we mijrht leave in the hands of the savages, to be delivercti to foreign traders, would ever reach the United States. To leave any of our men here, in hopes of their pro- curing a passage home in some transient vessel, would too much weaken our party, which we must necessarily divide during our route; besides that, we shall most probably be there ourselves sooner than any trader, who, after spending the next summer here, might go on some circuitous voyage. The rains and wind still confined us to the fort ; but at last our provisions dwindled down to a single day's stock, and it became absolutely necessary to remove. We there- fore sent a few hunters ahead, and stopped the boats as well as we could with mud. Sundaj, March lyi, i8o6.' The canoes were loaded, and of the Columbia river, who delivered to him a paper, of which I enclose you a copy. It had been committe.l to their charge by Captains Clarke and Lewis who had penetrated to the Pacific ocean. The original is a rough draft with a pen of their outward route, and that which they intended returning by. Just below the junction of Madison's river, they found an immense fall of three hundred and sixty-two [a gross exaggeration— see the text where the Great Falls of the Missouri are described, beginning at p. 383] feet perpendicular. This, I believe, exceeds in magnitude any other '.nown. From the natives Captain Hill learned that tliey were all in good health and sjiirits ; had met many difficulties on their progress, from various tribes of Indians, but had found them about the sources of the Missouri very friendly, as were those on the Columbia river and the coast." (Original Note.) ' There is, of course, no question of this date. Gass gives the same day and hour. But in a letter of Clark's, elsewhere printed, it stands March 27th in two places. (By a curious coincidence, the date of evacuating Fort Mandan, April 7th, 1805, is misprinted April 17th in Jefferson's Message to Congress of Feb. 19th, 1806.) The spot thus left h.is never been lost sight of. It was fixed with absolute precision, of course became historical, and has been marked on most maps ever since. We frequently hear of it in books < T travel, etc. Thus Ross Cox, an Astorian by sea in the " Beaver," who reached the Columbia in April. 11 1 J '11 P(uNT Wll.UAM DOUBLED. 905 at one o'r' ck in the afternoon we took final leave of Fort Clats«ip The wind was still hi<,'h, but the alternative of remah ing without provisions as so unpleasant that we hoped to be able to double Point William. We had scarcely left the fork when we met P Mash w'lt and a party of 20 Chinnooks, who, understan uc had been trying to procure a canoe, had brought one for sale. Being, however, already supplied, wc left them, and after getting out of Meriwether's bay, jgan to coast alont^ the south side of the river. We doubled Point William without any injury, and at six o'clock reached, at the distance of 16 (/>. 206) miles from Fort Clatsop, the mouth of a small [John Day 'J creek, where we found our hunters. They had been fortu- nate enough to kill two elk, b t such a distance that we could not send for them before uie next morning, March 24th, when they were brought in fo, 'breakfast. We then proceeded [at half-past nine]. The country is cov- ered with a thick growth of timber; the water, however, is 1812, visited the spot : " the logs of the houses were still standing, and marked with the names of several of the party." The Narrative of J. K. Townsend, a noted naturalist and associate of Nuttall, which was pub. I'hila., 1839, gives an- other glimpse (1834). " Oct. I4tli, I walked to-day around the beach to the foot of Young's bay. . . to see the remains of the house in which Lewis and Clark's party resided. . . The logs of which it was composed are still perfect, but the roof of bark has disappeared, and the whole vicinity is overgrown with thorn and wild currant bushes. . . One of Mr. Birnie's children found a few days since a large silver medal, which had been brought here by Lewis and Clark, and had ])robably been presented to some chief, who lost it. On one side was a head, with the name ' Th. Jefferson, President of the United States, 1801,' on the other, two hands interlocked, surrounded by a pipe and tomahawk ; and above, the words ' Peace and Friendship,' " ^p. 256). This is a perfect identification of the medal. A little later, in the forties or early fifties, there was a saw-mill on the site. Thus we read in Mrs. F. F. Victor's book, pub. S. F'sco., 1872 : " Not only have sixty years effaced all traces of their encampment, but a house, which stood on the sit in 1853, has quite disappeared, the site being overgrown with trees 20 feet in height. Of a saw-mill which furnished lumber to San Francisco ill the same year, nothing now remains except immense beds of half rotten saw- dust, embedding one or two charred foundation timbers. A dense growth of vegetation covers the whole ground." The present aspect of the place is better known than what might be discovered by digging in the right spot. * Kekemahke river or creek of Nov. 27th, 1805, p. 722, which see. V \ i IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) r A ^^ ^- f/. % 1.0 I.I 1.25 >iiiM 115 2.2 1^ — .If m '""— ^ 12.0 .8 U 11.6 PhoiDgjapnic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (7' 6) 87i-4503 r\^ V ^v \ > 0 % '^ .^; >%:=''. ■niw" 906 CATHLAMET BAY ROUNDED. shallow to the distance of four miles from shore ; and although there is a channel deep enough for canoes on the south side, yet as the tide was low we found some difficulty in passing along. At one o'clock we reached the Cathlamah village,' where we halted for about two hours, and purchased some wappatoo and a dog for the invalids. This village we have already described as situated opposite the Seal islands ; on one of these the Indians have placed their dead in canoes, raised on scaffolds above the reach of the tide. These peo- ple seem to be more fond of carving in wood <-han their neighbors, and have various specimens of their taste about the houses. The broad pieces supporting the roof, and the board through which doors are cut, are the objects ' on which they chiefly display their ingenuity, and are orna- mented with curious figures, sometimes representing persons in a sitting posture supporting a burden. On resuming our route among the Seal islands, we mistook our way, which an Indian observing, he pursued us and put us into the right channel. He soon, however, embarrassed us by claiming the canoe we had taken from the Clatsops, and which he declared was his property. We had found it among the Clatsops, and seized it as a reprisal for a theft committed by that nation ; but being unwilling to do an act of injustice to this Indian, and having no time to discuss the question of right, we compromised with him for an elk-skin, with which he returned perfectly satisfied. We continued our route along the shore, and after making 15 miles camped at an old village of nine houses, opposite the lower village of the Wahkiacums.' Here we were overtaken by two Chinnooks, » Where is now Warren's Landing: see pp. 705, 721. Hugging the south shore, they pass camp of Nov. 26th, going along highlands which set a little back of the nver, and past some small creeks or sluices, among which are two called Bear and Big ; Warren's creek at the Landing. 'Such objects are now commonly called totem-posts. They are found among the Indians of the whole northwest coast, often of immense size and carved in the most fantastic manner. Some fine specimens may be seen in the U.S. National Museum at Washington, ' For the village, opposite which is camp, see p. 701. Camp in Clatsop Co., TENASILLIHEE AND PUGET ISLANDS PASSED. 907 who {p.Joy) came to us after dark and spent the night at our camp. We found plenty of wood for fires, which were quite necessary, as the weather had become cold. March 25///. This morning proved so disagreeably cold that we did not set out before seven o'clock, when, having breakfasted, we continued along [the channel between Tenasillihee island and] the south side of the river. The wind, however, as well as a strong current, was ag^iinst us, so that we proceeded slowly. On landing for dinner at noon [at or near Clifton], we were joined by some Clatsops, who had been on a trading voyage to the Skilloots, and were now or: their return loaded with dried anchovies, wappatoo, and sturgeon. After dinner we crossed the river [at head of Tenasillihee island] to a large [Puget] island along the [north] side of which we continued about a mile, till we reached a single house [about present site of Cathlamet] occupied by three men, two women, and the same number of boys, all of the Cathlamah nation. They were engaged in fishing or trolling for sturgeon, of which they had caught about a dozen, but they asked so much for them that we were afraid to purchase. One of the men purchased the skin of a sea-otter in exchange for a dressed elk-skin and a handkerchief. Nearly adjoining this house was another party of Cathlamahs, who had been up the river on a fishing excursion, and been successful in procuring a large supply, which they were not disposed to sell. We proceeded on to the head of the [Puget] island, and then crossed to the north' side of the river. Here the coast formed a continued swamp for several miles back, so that it Ore., by Point Samuel (Katalamat, Katlamet or Cathlamet Point, p. 721), near lower end of Tenasillihee island ; across the river is Skumaquea creek : see Nov. 7th, p. 700 and notes there. * Read south. "Continued our rout up the [Puget] Island to it's head and passed to the south side," Lewis K 4. This is confirmed by the statement just beyond that they camped at the entrance of a small creek opposite camp of Nov. 6th, 1805, which last was on the right (going down river). To-night's camp is in a marsh on the right hand going up, left bank or south side, in Columbia Co., Ore. ; across the river are the bold headlands of Cape Horn (see p. 700, Nov. 6th). 9o8 CAPE HORN ROUNDED. was late in the evening before we were able to reach a spot fit for our camp. At length we discovered the entrance of a small creek, opposite the place [near Cape Horn] where we weic camped on the 6th of November. Though the ground was low and moist, yet the spot was sheltered from the wind, and we resolved to pass the night there. We had made 15 miles. Here we found another party of Cathlamahs, who had established a temporary residence for the purposes of fishing sturgeon and taking seal, in both of which they had been successful. They gave us some of the flesh {p. 208) of the seal, which was a valuable addition to the lean elk. The low grounds which we passed are supplied with cottonwood, and the tree resembling the ash, except in its leaf, with red willow, broad-leaved willow, seven-bark, gooseberry, green- briar, and the large-leaved thorn.' The wind was vrry high toward evening, and continued to blow so violently in the morning, March 26th, that we could not set out before eight o'clock. In the meantime, finding that one of our neighbors the Cathlamahs, by name Wallale, was a person of distinction, we gave him a medal of small size, with which he was invested with the usual ceremonies. He appeared highly gratified, and requited us with a large sturgeon. The wind having abated, we proceeded to an old village, where we halted for dinner, having met on the way Sahawacap," the principal chief of all the Cathlamahs, who was on his return from a trading voyage up the river with wappatoo and fish, some of which he gave us, and we purchased a little more. At dinner we were overtaken by two Wahkiacums, who have been following us for 24 hours, with two dogs, for which they are importuning us to give them some tobacco ; but, as •Cottonwood, Populus irichocarpa; the tree resembling the ash, etc., is the broad-leaved maple, Acer macrophyllum; the red willow is probably a species of Cornus; the seven-bark is the Douglas hardback, Spirc^a douglasi; the goose- berry is an uncertain species of Ribes; the green-briar, Rubus ursinus ; the large- kaved thorn, Cratagus douglasi. ">"S4h-hah-wah-cap," Lewis K 5, where the above-named Wallale, moreover is Wal-lal'-le. fanny's island and bottom. 909 we have very little of that article left, they were obliged to go off disappointed. We received at the same time an agreeable supply of three eagles and a large goose, brought in by the hunters. After dinner we passed along the north shore opposite a high, fine bottom and dry prairie, at the upper end of which, near a grove of white-oak trees, is an island which we caJcd Fanny's" island. There were some deer and elk at a distance in the prairie ; but, as we could not stay to hunt, we continued till late in the evening, when 've camped on the next [now Fisher's] island above Fanny's. According to the estimate we made in descending the river," which we begin, however, to think was short, our journey of to-day was 18 miles. Some Indians came to us, but vvc were occupied in procuring wood, vhich we found it difficult to obtain in sufficient quantity for our purposes, and they therefore did not remain long- {p. 2og) March i^th. We set out early, and were soon joined by some Skilloots, with fish and roots for sale. At ten o'clock we stopped to breakfast at tv, - houses of the " " Elegant and extensive bottom on the South side and an island near it's upper point which we call Fanny's Island and bottom," Lewis K 6. Fanny's island is now Grim's, about 2 m. lor ^ ; and the upper end of Fanny's bottom is shown as Oak Point by Commander Wilkes on the U. S. Exploring Expedi- tion map of 1841. Captain Clark's youngest sister Frances is the lady thus com- plimented. For identifications of the various islands and other points of to-day's voyage, see p. 699 and note there. Wallace's island, now large and well marked, on the south side, between Puget island and Fanny's or Grim's, may not have been isolated in 1805-6 ; it is not recognizably noticed in the History. On the other hand, Grim's stands out very distinctly, nearer the south than the north shore, a little below Green Point, with the small Gull island at its lower end, near which Nequally and Negisticook creeks fall in on the Washington side, opposite the upper (Oak) point of Fanny's bottom. Opposite Green Point, Ore., is Cleve- land's Landing, Wash.; next above are Fisher's and Walker's islands. To- night's camp is on the former one of these. " " Agreeably to our estimate as we decended the river, we came 16 m. [March] 23 d., 16 m. the 24th., 15 m. the 25th., and 18 m. the 26th., tho' I now think our estimate in decending the river was too short," Lewis K 7. Miles look and feel differently going up and down a river ! According to the down-river esti- mates here recapitulated, and thought too short, the Expedition has ascended 65 miles from Fort Clatsop. See last note. .. l! pro MT. COFFIN— COWLITZ RIVER. ■'• V same nation, where we found our hunters [Drewyer and J and R. Fields], who had not returned to camp last night" they had killed nothing. The inhabitants seemed very kind and hospitable. They gave almost the whole party as much as they could eat of dried anchovies, wappatoo, sturgeon, quamash, and a small white tuberous root, two inches long and as thick as a man's finger, which, when eaten raw is cnsp milky, and of an agreeable flavor. The Indians also urged us to remain with them all day, to hunt elk and deer which they said were abundant in the neighborhood ; but as the weather would not permit us to dry and pitch our canoes, we declined their offer and proceeded. At the distance of two miles [further] we passed the entrance of Coweliskee river [see p. 698, Nov. 6th]. This stream discharges itself on the north side of the Columbia about three miles above a remarkably high rocky knoll " the south side of which it washes in passing, and which is'sepa- rated from the northern hills by a wide bottom of several miles in extent. The Coweliskee is 150 yards wide, deep and navigable, as the Indians assert, for a considerable dis- tance ; It most probably waters the country west and north of the range of mountains which crosses the Columbia between the (^reat Falls and rapids. On the lower side of this river a few miles from its entrance into the Columbia, is the prin- cipal village of the Skilloots, a numerous people, differing, "Mt. Coffin, 240 feet high-a very conspicuous object immediately on the nvers edge, isolated by lowlands from the " northern hills," mentioned in the text, one of which ,s Mt. Solo. 400-500 feet high. It is a wonder no name was given to this rr.k, as various less striking formations were duly christened by RtkTonT n ?" ?" '""^ '° '^"'' '"' "^"y y--- This and Coffin Rock (on the Oregon s,de, four or five miles above the mouth of the Cowlit. mer were from time immemorial places of deposit of the dead aborigines, and owe their English names to being thus " Memaloose Alahee." We should err however, .f we translated this term by graveyard, sepulcher, or the like, in th^ concrete sense of burial-ground. It means the place of the departed-happy hunting-grounds, lucky fishery, spirit-worid. ghostland. other side of Jordan Tartarus, Hades-or what you may choose to call that which you imagine yoJ will go to when you die. Near mouth of the Cowlitz is Cottonwood island ; opposite the mouth is Rainier (town); Cedar Landing i/^ m. below this ENTERPRISE LANDING, OPPOSITE KALAMA. 911 however, neither in language, dress, nor manners from the Clatsops, Chinnooks, and other nations at the mouth of the Columbia. With the Chinnooks they have lately been at war, and though hostilities have ceased, yet they have not resumed their usual intercourse ; so that the Skilloots do not go as far as the sea, nor do the Chinnooks come higher up than the Seal islands, the trade between them being carried on by the Clatsops, Cathlamahs, and Wahkiacums, their mutual friends. On this same river, above the Skilloots, resides the nation called Hullooetell,'* of (/>. 210) whom we learnt nothing, except that the nation was numerous. Late in the evening we halted " at the beginning of the bottom- land below [Elallah or] Deer island, after having made 20 miles. Along the low grounds on the river were the cotton- wood \Populus trichocarpd\, sweet-willow, oak, ash {Fraxinus ortgana\ broad-leaved ash [maple, Acer macrophyllum\ and a growth resembling the beech ; while the hills were occupied almost exclusively by different species of fir ; the black alder \Alnus rubra] was common to the hills as well as the low grounds. During the day we passed a number of fishing- camps on both sides of the river, and were constantly attended by small parties of the Skilloots, who behaved in the most orderly manner, and from whom we purchased as much fish and roots as we wanted on very moderate terms. The night continued as the day had been, cold, wet, and dis- agreeable. March 2%th. We left our camp at an early hour, and by nine o'clock reached an old Indian village on the left [north] side of Deer island. Here we found a party of our men whom we had sent on yesterday to hunt, and who now re- turned after killing seven deer in the course of the morning, '* " Hul-loo-et-tell," Lewis K 8 ; nothing further known of them ; probably a Salishan tribe. They reappear in the Estimate as HuUooellel. " In Cohimbia Co., Ore., at or near Enterprise Landing, a couple of miles above Coffin Rock and about a mile below Hunter's ; immediately opposite is Sandy island and town of Kalama, Cowlitz Co, , Wash. Deer island shows large on Clark's map, where it is charted by its present name. See pp. 696, 697. \.:h V< 912 ELALLAH OR DEER ISLAND. out of upward of a hundred which they had seen. They were the common fallpw-deer with long tails [Cariacus virgin- tanus macrurusl and though very poor are better than the b,ack-ta.led fallow-deer of the coast iC, c.lumbianus], from v/hich they d.ffer materially. Soon after our arrival the weather became fair, and we therefore immediately hauled the boats on shore, and having dried them by means of large fires put on the pitch. We also took this opportunity of dry- ing our baggage; and as some of the hunters had not yet re- turned, ,t was deemed advisable to pass the night at our pres- ent camp. This island, which has received from the Indians the appropriate name of Elalah [Elallah], or Deer island IS surrounded on the water-side by an abundant growth of Cottonwood, ash, and willow, while the interior consists chiefly of prairies interspersed witn ponds. These afford refuge to great numbers of geese, ducks, large swan \CyFnns buccinator\ sandhill cranes, a few canvas-backed ducks iAris- tonetta valltsncria\ and particularly (/. 3u) the duckinmal- iard \Anas boscas\ the most abundant of all. There are also great numbers of snakes " resembling our garter-snakes in appearance, and like them not poisonons. Our hunters brought m three deer, a goose, some ducks, an eagle, and a tiger-cat iLynx rnfus fasciatus]. Such is the extreme vor- acity of the vultures {_Pseudogryphus californianns\ that thev had devoured in the space of a few hours four of the deer killed this morning; and one [J. Fields] of our men declared that they had besides dragged a large buck about 30 yards skinned it, and broken the backbone. " We were visited >^ " On this island there are a greater number of snakes, than T had ever seen in any other place ; they appeared almost as numerous as the blades of grass Ld are a spec.es of Garter snake." Gass. p. X92. Lewis K lo.ix. this date has th long descnpfonof the duck. No. 56 of Chap. xxiv.. and also a good diagnosis of covered till the Wdkes Explonng Expedition, during which specimens were taken at Puget Sound, on which Baird and Girard bLd the name iL^' ^'t?Z '"" ""'■ ^'"'" ^"^'^^""S. the collector (Serp. N. A. 1853 p 27 VVhen our men went for the ,leer. they found that the fowls had devoured four of the carcases entirely, except the bones." Gass. p. 192. March 28th CHAWAHNAHIOOKS OR LEWIS RIVER. 913 during the day by a large canoe with ten Indians of the Quathlapotle '" nation, who reside about 17 miles above us. We advanced only five miles to-day. '" Saturday, March 2()t/i. At an early hour we proceeded along the side of Deer island and halted for breakfast at the upper end of it, which is properly the commencement of the great Columbian valley. We were here joined by three men of the Towahnahiook"" nation, with whom we pro- ceeded, till at the distance of 14 [?] miles from our camp of last evening we reached a large inlet or arm of the river, about 300 yards wide, up which they went to their villages. A short distance above this inlet a considerable river emp- ties from the north side of the Columbia. Its name is Cha- wahnahiooks.^' It is about 150 yards wide, and at present •' One of the tribes of Upper Chinooks, of the Chinookan family, also spelled Quathlahpotle by L. and C. The name is usually spelled Cathlapotle, and has been very generally applied to the river now called Lewis'. See note ", p. 914. " And were camped on the north side of Deer island, about opposite the two small islands, Martin's and Burke's, behind which Burris creek falls in on the Washington side. Deer island is 5 m. long by i ^ at widest part, somewhat lozenge-shaped, and only separated from the Oregon side by a narrow slough. ''" Mistake here. " We were joined by three men of the Clam-nah-min-na- mun nation," Lewis K 12, Mar. 29th. Towahnahiook, supposing that to be the word, would indicate theTowahha, a Salishan tribe. In 1867 there were 97 of them left, all on the Lummi Reservation, Wash. " " This stream the natives call Cah-wah-na-hi-ooks," Lewis K 12. So on the codex-map, K 29; Chah-wah-na-hi-ooks on Clark's map of 1814 ; in the Estimate, Tahwahnahiooks. However this gibberish word be spelled, I have reason to think that L. and C. were under some misapprehension in using it as the name of the present river. Unless there be some radical etymological distinc- tion between Towahnahiooks and Chawahnahiooks, the same is the name of the Des Chutes river, on the Oregon side above the Dalles, as we have already seen (p. 657). The last note shows that there was a mistake in the text about the Indians met here. The native name of the river now in question, or at any rate of its main fork, is the same as that of the Indians next above mentioned — Quathlapotle, now usually Cathlapotle, to be found charted in some such form on various maps of comparatively modern dates. Perhaps in consequence of all this uncertainty, this stream is now called Lewis' river. It is a large forked stream, both the main branches of which, called North and South Fork of Lewis' river, arise in the mountains of Skamania Co., Wash., drain westward, through this and Clark Co., and only unite a little above the mouth of their conjoined courses. At the mouth of Lewis' river is also the mouth of an entirely separate stream. w J 914 QUATIILAPOTLE OR UACHELOR'S ISLAND. discharges a large body of water, though the Indians assure us that a short distance above its mouth the navigation is obstructed by falls and rapids. Three miles bevond the inlet is an island [Bachelor's] near the north shore of the river, behind the lower end of which is a village of Quath- lapotlcs," where we landed about three o'clock. The village consists of 14 large wooden houses. The people themselves received us very kindly, and voluntarily spread before us wappatoo and anchovies ; but as soon as we fin- ished enjoying this hospitality, if it deserve that name, they began to ask us for presents. They were, however, per- fectly satisfied with the small articles which we distributed according to custom, and equally pleased with (/. 212) our purchasing some wappatoo, twelve dogs, and two sea-otter skins. We also gave the chief a small medal, which he, however, soon transferred to his wife. After remaining some time we embarked, and coasting along this island, which after the nation we called Quathlapotle island, camped for the night in a small prairie on the north side of the Columbia, having made by estimate 19 miles." The river is rising fast. Lake or Calapooya river, which rises about Vancouver, especially in a lake there, and runs nearly parallel with the Columbia for some 20-25 miles. This double disemboguement takes place at the lower point of Bachelor's island, immediately opposite Warrior Point-which point is the sharp lower end of the immense Wappatoo island of L. and C. (now Sauvie), just above town of St. Helen's, Columbia Co., Ore. Between the Warrior point of Wappatoo or Sauvie island and the Oregon mainland is the " large inlet or arm " of the text— that is, Scap- poose bay. into whirh runs the great Willamette slough, some 20 miles long, with Its other end in the Willamette or Multnomah river, thus delimiting Wappatoo island. Near the entrance of this inlet are the town and the creek called Milton (originally named as a British fur-trading post). See p. 696, Nov. 5th. " Or Cathlapotles. They were a tribe of the Chinookan stock, who spoke the Katlamat dialect. Their name is from Gatiap'otlh, derived from that of the river Nap'otlh (Yah-kotl on Stevens' map No. 3, as S. fork of Lewis' river). See also last note. •" As the Columbia here runs about north, camp was rather on the east (right bank, left hand going up), in Clark Co., Wash. Distances seem overestimated to-day, and this camp can hardly be fixed within two or three miles. It must have been in the vicinity of Fale's Landing, as it was not far from camp of Nov. 4th. See p. 695. t-» CLANAMINAMUMS— CLAXTARS— CATHLACUMUPS. QI 5 In the course of the day we saw great numbers of geese, ducks, and large and small swans [C}'j,^n/ts buccinator and C. coltivtbiamis], which last arc very abundant in the ponds where the wappatoo grows, as they feed much on that root. We also observed the crested kingfisher {^Ccrylc alcyon\ and the large and small blackbird ; and this evening heard, without seeing, the large hooting-owl. The frogs S^Rana prctiosa?\ which we have not found in the wet marshes near the entrance of the Columbia, are now croaking in the swamps and marshes with precisely the same note as in the United States. The garter-snakes [Eiitania pickcringi'] appear in vast quantities, and arc scattered through the prairies in large bundles of 40 or 50 entwined round each other. Among the moss on the rocks we observed a species of small wild onions [Clark Q 85] growing so closely together as to form a perfect turf, and equal in flavor to the shives [chives or cives, Allium schcenoprasunt] of our gardens, which they resemble in appearance also. Sunday, March loth. Soon after our departure we were met by three Clanaminamums," one of whom we recognized as our companion yesterday. He pressed us very much to visit his countrymen on the inlet, but we had no time to make the circuit, and parted. We had not proceeded far before a party of Claxtars" and Cathlacumups" passed us in '* In the Estimate printed Clannarminnamuns. Preferable spelling Clannah- minnamun, as Lewis K 15. These were a Chinookan tribe, here enumerated among the " Wappatoo " Indians ; their village is charted on the codex-map on Wappatoo island. They probably became extinct as a separate body about 1840. "» So Lewis K 15 ; in the Estimate printed Clackstar. Here we have some entirely different Indians. These are the Tlatscanai, an Athapascan tribe, belonging to the Pacific group of Athapascan stock, which formerly resided on a small stream on the northwest side of Wappatoo Island, and hence were enu- merated by Lewis and Clark among their " Wappatoo " Indians. According to Dr. George Gibbs, whose informant was an old Indian, the Tlatscanai "for- merly owned the prairies on the Tsihalis (Chehalis) at the mouth of the Skukum- chuck, but, on failure of game, left the country, crossed the Columbia river, and occupied the mountains to the south "—which statement is noted by Powell as too uncertain to be depended upon. There is a river and town of this name in Oregon south of the Columbia. «« Cathlahcumups, Lewis K 15, or Cathlacumups. as here and in the Estimate, I' m I 916 WAPPATOO ISLAND— CLAHNAQUAH INDIANS ID two canoes, on their way down the river ; and soon after we were met by several other canoes, filled with persons of dif- ferent tribes on each side of the river. We also passed several fishing-camps on Wappatoo •" island, and then halted for breakfast on the north side of the river," near our camp of the 4th of November. Here we were visited by several canoes from two villages on Wappatoo island ; the first, about {p. 2ij) two miles above us, is called Clahnaquah; the other, a mile above them, has the name of Multnomah. After higgling, much in the manner of those on the seacoast, these Indians gave us a sturgeon with some wappatoo and were a tribe of Chinookan stock, simply known as mentioned by Lewis and Clark. Codex-map charts their village on west bank of Scappoose bay. " An interesting " find " in the codices is a never-published map, Lewis K 28, 29 — a pen-and-ink sketch in Clark's hand. It shows the Columbia from the Cahwahnahiooks (Lewis') to the Quicksand (Sandy) river, a long reach of the Multnomah, Mt. Jefferson, etc., with the residences of the various tribes in these parts. Some of the intricate geography about the mouths of the Multnomah is clearly displayed. Wappatoo island is a conspicuous feature cf this map ; it is of course much more accurately charted than as appears on Clark's published map of 1814, and a dozen or more other islands, large and small, are filled in. The reader will recall how much use Lewis and Clark made of this name " Wap- patoo " — for the plant, for the great island now in mention, for a whole group of Indians — they even called the whole region between the Cascade and Coast ranges Wappatoo valley, before they named it the Columbia valley, and it is conspicu- ously so lettered on Clark's map of 1814. The island has had many names, as a whole, being called Multnomah and Willamette in all their shifty spellings, but seems to pass now usually as Sauvie or Sauvie's island. Similarly, the slough which isolates it is variously called ; on one map before me it is marked Warrior's Branch. I do not see how any such terms are better than the original distinctive and highly appropriate name Wappatoo given by L. andC, which should by all means be restored. The island is big enough to have quite a geography of its own. Its most conspicuous feature is perhaps the large sheet of water called Sturgeon lake. '* " 5 miles above Quathkhpotle [Bachelor's] Island on the N.E. side we halted for breakfast," Lewis K 16. On the codex-map this island shows well, next above the mouth of Cahwahnahiooks (Lewis') river, with village of Quath- lapotles marked on the mainland back of the island. ■" Clan-nah-quah, Lewis K 16 ; Clannahqueh of the Estimate ; elsewhere Clahnaqua. A band of Chinookan stock, only known as here noted by L. and C. The same is to be said of the Shotos next named. These are located on the codex-map on Lake (or Calapooya) river, and the " pond " near where they lived is shown there. 4ii ;( % SHCTOS— IMAGE-C/.NOE ISLAND— SHAHALAS. 917 I pashequaw in exchange fu. small fish-hooks. As we pro- ceeded we were joined by other Indians, and on coming opposite the Clahnaquah village were shown another village about two miles from the river on the northeast side, and behind a pond running parallel with it. Here they said the tribe called Shotos resided. About four o'clock the Indians all left us. Their chief object in accompanying us appeared to be to gratify curiosity ; but though they behaved in the most friendly manner, most of them were prepared with their instruments of war. About sunset we reached a beau- tiful prairie, opposite the middle of what we had [Nov. 4th : see p. 694] called Image-canoe island, and having made 23 miles, camped for the night." In the prairie is a large pond or lake, and an open grove of oak borders the back part. There are many deer and elk in the neighborhood, but they are very shy ; and the annual fern, which is now abundant and dry, makes such a rustling as the hunters pass through it that they could not come within reach of the game, and we obtained nothing but a single duck. March i\st. We set out very early, and at eight o'clock, landed on the north side of the river and breakfasted. Directly opposite is a large wooden house, belonging to the Shahala"' natioi , the inhabitants of which came over to see us. We had observed in descending the river last year [Nov. 4th], that there were at the same place 24 other houses, built of wood and covered with straw, all of which are now destroyed. On inquiry the Indians informed us that their relations, whom we saw last fall, usually visit them at that season for the purpose of hunting deer and elk, and collect- ing wappatoo, but that they had lately returned to their permanent residence at the rapids — we presume in order to *> At or near present site of the historic Fort Vancouver, and present location of Vancouver, county seat of Clark Co., Wash. The " large pond or lake " of the text is now called I-'ke Vancouver, which discharges into Lake or Cala- pooya river, a little lower down on which is the other " pond " of the text, where the Shotos resided. »' " Ne-er-cho-ki-oo Tribe of the Sha-ha-la Nation," located on the codex-map, Lewis K 28, on the S. side of the Columbia, as per text. See note '», p. 761. I II 91 8 DIAMOND AND WHITE BRANT ISLANDS — SEAL RIVER. I tt^'i prepare for the salmon season, as that fish will soon begin {p. 21^) to run. At ton o'clock we resumed our route along the north side of the river, and having passed Diamond and Whitcbrant islands, halted for the night at the lower point'of a handsome prairie. Our camp,'" which is 25 miles from that of last night, is situated opposite the upper entrance of Quicksand [Sandy] river ; a little below [camp] a stream [Seal or Washougal river] from the north empties into the Colum- bia, near the head of Whitebrant island. It is about 80 yards wide, and at present discharges a large body of very clear water, which near the Columbia overflows its low banks and forms several large ponds. The natives inform us that this river is of no great extent, rises in the mountains near us [about Saddle Peak, in Skamania Co., Wash.], and at a mile from its mouth is divided into two nearly equal branches, both of M'hich are incapable of being navigated on account of their numerous faUs and rapids. Not being able to learn any Indian name, we called it Seal river [p. 690, Nov. 3d], from the abundance of those animals near its mouth. At the same place we saw a summer-duck {Aix sponsa\ ot wood- duck, as it is sometimes called ; it is the same with that of the United States, and the first we have seen since entering the Rocky mountains last summer. The hunters, who had been obliged to halt below Seal river on account of the waves being too high for their small canoe, returned after dark with the unwelcome news that game was scarce in that quarter. Tuesday, April 1st. Three Indians followed us yesterday '' Text is ■'.mbigunus as to whether camp was above or below the mouth of Seal (Washougal) river. Lewis K 19 has : "continued our rout along the N. side of the river passed diarr.ond island and whitebrant island to the lower point of a l.indsom prarie opposite to the upper entrance of the quicksand river ; here we encamped h^.vint^ traveled 25 niilcLi to-day. a little below the upper point of the whitebrant Island Seal river discharges," etc. Camp is therefore a little above the mouth of the Washougal, at which is now town of La Camas, Clark Co., Wash., and back of this is a place called Fern Prairie — recalling what is said of /cms in yesterday's itinerary. For rivers and xslands named today, see p. 690, Nov. 3d. On Wilkes' map, 1841, Seal river is marked Evet's ; and Quicksand river, Quichel's. QUICKSAND OR SANDY RIVER. 919 and camped near us last night. On putting to them a variety of questions relative to their country, they assured us that Quicksand river, which we had hitherto deemed so considerable, extends no further than the southwest side of Mount Hood, which is S. 85° E., 40 r.iiles distant from this place ; and it is moreover navigable for a very short distance only, in consequence of falls and rapids, and that no nation inhabits its borders. Several other persons afifirmed that it rose near Mount Hood, and Sergeant Pryor, who was sent [with two men] for the purpose of examining it, convinced us {p. 215) of the truth of their statement. He found the river 300 yards wide, though the channel was not morr; than 50 yards wide and about 6 feet deep. The current was rapid, the water turbid ; the bed of the river was formed entirely of quicksand ; the banks very low, and at present overflowed. He passed several islands, and at 1Y2 miles' distance a creek from the south, 50 yards wide ; his furthest course was six miles from the mouth of the river, but there it seemed to bend to the east, and he heard the noise of waterfalls. If Quicksand river then does not go beyond Mount Hood, it must leave the valley a few miles from its entrance, and run nearly parallel with the Columbia. There must, therefore, be some other large river \i. e., the Multnomah"'], which we have not yet seen, to water the extensive country between the mountains of the coast and Quicksand river; but the Indians could give us no satisfactory information of any such -'tream. Whilst we were making these inquiries a number of canoes came to Ub, and among the rest a number of families were descending the riven They told us that they lived at the Great Rapids, but that a great scarcity of provisions there " This largest of all tributaries of the Columbia, below the Snake, was actually missed both ways by the Expedition, owing to the si -ation of its principal mouth behind islands— some of the small islands now about the irouth of *he river are Hayden's (or Shaw's), Pearcy's, Ramsay's, Coon, and Nigger Tom- though they correctly noted the sluice of its lower opening (see note^", p. 914 Mar. 2r)th). But now they infer that there must be some such river, and to-mor- row Captain Clark is coming back to look the matter up. See Apr. 3d, beyond. \ (i| IP 920 HUNTING-CAMP ESTABLISHED HERE. rf / n W- t. t tt ri ■.n n '^ had induced them to come down in hopes of finding subsist- ence in this fertile valley. All those who lived at the rapids, as well as the nations above them, were in much distress for want of food, having consumed their winter store of dried fish ; and not expecting the return of the salmon before the next full moon, which will happen on the 2d of May, this intelligence was disagreeable and embarrassing. From the falls to the Chopunnish nation the plains afford no deer, elk, or antelope on which we can rely for subsistence. The horses are very poor at this season, and the dogs must be in the same condition if their food, the fish, has failed ; so that we had calculated entirely on purchasing fish. On the other hand, it is obviously inexpedient to wait for the return of the salmon, since in that case we might not reach the Missouri before the ice would prevent our navigating it. We might besides hazard the loss of our horses, for the (/. .?/(5) Chopun- nish, with whom we left them, intend crossing the [Bitter- root and Rocky] mountains as early as possible, which is about the beginning of May, and would take our horses with them, or suffer them to disperse ; in either of which cases the passage of the mountains will be almost impracticable. We, therefore, after much deliberation, decided to remain here till we could collect meat enough to last us till we reach the Chopunnish nation, and to obtain canoes from the natives as we ascend, either in exchange for our periogues or by pur- chasing them with skins and merchandise. These canoes may in turn be exchanged for horses with the natives of the plains, till we obtain enough to travel altogether by land. On reaching the southeast branch [Lewis' river] of the Colum- bia, four or five men shall be sent on to the Chopunnish to have our horses in readiness. Thus we shall have a stock of horses sufificient to transport our baggage and to supply us with provisions, for we now perceive that they will form our only certain resource for food. The hunters returned from the opposite side of the river with some deer a d elk, which were abundant there, as were also the tracks ot the black bear ; while on the north side we CASHOOK CARTOGRAPHY. 921 could kill nothing. In the course of our dealings to-day we purchased a canoe from an Indian, for which we gave six fathoms of wampum beads. He seemed perfectly satisfied and went away, but returned soon after, canceled the bar- gain, and giving back the wampum requested that we would restore him the canoe. To this we consented, as we knew this method of trading to be very common and deemed per- fectly fair. April 2d. Being now determined to collect as much meat as possible, two parties, consisting of nine men, were sent over the river to hunt; three were ordered to range the country on this side, while all the rest were employed in cutting and scai=folding the meat which we had already. About eight o'clock several canoes arrived to visit us, and among the rest were two young men who were pointed out as Cas- {p. 2if) hooks." On inquiry, they said that their nation resided at the falls of a large river which empties into the south side of the Columbia a few miles below us, and they drew a map " of the country with a coal on a mat. In order to verify this information. Captain Clark persuaded one of the young men, by a present of a burning-glass, to accompany him to this river, in search of which he imme- diately set out with a canoe and seven of our men. After his departure other canoes arrived from above, bringing fami- lies of women and children, who confirmed the accounts of a scarcity of provisions. One of these families, consist- ing of ten or twelve persons, camped near us and behaved perfectly well. The hunters on this side of the [Columbia] river returned with only the skins of tv/o deer, the animals beir'y too poor for use. April id. A considerable number of Indians crowded ^ Cash-hooks, Lewis K 20, elsewhere Cushooks: see notice of them in the Esti- mate, which is about all that is known of these Indians, who were probably of Chinookan stock. Sse the Nemalquinner note, p. 924. ^^ This map, transferred by Clark to paper, now occupies Lewis K 28, 29. It traces Clark's trip of Apr. 2d and 3d, marks his camp on the Multnomah, locates the tribes named in the text of Apr. 30th, and shows many other interesting points. See note ", p. 916, and note ♦', p. 927. mM^^atf^ ap-« Ij'- f V. I', f •m I 922 EXPLORATION OF THE MULTNOMAH. about US to-day, many of whom came from the upper part of the river. These poor wretches confirm the reports of scarcity among the nations above ; which, indeed, their appearance sufificiently proved, for they seemed almost starved, and greedily picked the bones and refuse meat thrown away by us. In the evening [6 p. m.] Captain Clark returned from his excursion. On setting out yesterday at half-past eleven o'clock, he directed his course along the south side of the [Columbia] river, where, at the distance of eight miles, he passed a village of the Nechacohee " tribe, belonging to the Eloot nation. The village itself is small, and being situated behind Diamond island, was concealed from our view as we passed both times along the northern shore. He continued till three o'clock, when he landed at the single house already mentioned [p. 917] as the only remains of a village of 24 straw huts. Along the shore were great numbers of small canoes for gathering wappatoo, which were left by the Sha- halas, who visit the place annually. The present inhabitants of the house are part of the Neerchokioo tribe of the same [Shahala] nation. On entering one of the apartments of the house, Captain Clark offered several articles to the Indians in ex- [p. 218) change for wappatoo ; but they appeared sullen and ill-humored, and refused to give him any. He therefore sat down by the fire opposite the m.en, and taking a port-fire match from his pocket, threw a small piece of it into the flame ; at the same time he took his pocket-compass, and by means of a magnet, which happened to be in his inkhorn, made the needle turn round very briskly. The match now took fire and burned violently, on which the Indians, terrified at this strange exhibition, immediately brought a quantity of wappatoo and laid it at his feet, begging him to put out 411 '« So on the codex-map, Lewis K 23, which locates the village opposite Dia- mond island ; Nechacokee of the Estimate ; also Nechecolee, and better Necha- coke. A Chinookan tribe, only known as given by Lewis and Clark. The same is to be said of the Neerchokioo next named. For Eloot in the above paragraph read Echeloot, and see note ", p. 672. III! i EXPLORATION OF THE MULTNOMAH. 923 the bad fire, while an old woman continued to speak with great vehemence, as if praying and imploring protection. Having received the roots, Captain Clark put up the com- pass., and as the match went out of itself tranquillity was restored, though the women and children still took refuge in their beds and behind the men. He now paid them for what he had used, and after lighting his pipe and smoking with them, continued down the river. He now found what we had called Image -canoe island to consist of three islands, the one in the middle concealing the opening between the other two in such a way as to present to us on the opposite side of the river the appearance of a single island. At the lower point of the third, 13 miles below the last village, he entered the mouth of a large Hver, which is concealed by three small islands in its mouth from those who descend or go up the Columbia. This river, which the Indians call Multnomah, from a nation of the same name residing near it on Wappatoo island, enters the Colum- bia 140 miles from the mouth of the latter river, of which it may justly be considered as forming one-fourth, though it has now fallen 18 inches below its greatest annual height. From its entrance Mount Regnier" bears nearly north, and Mount St. Helen's [Helena] north, with a very high humped mountain [Mount Adams, Yakima Co., Wash.] a little to the east of it, which seems to lie in the same chain with the conic- pointed mountains before mentioned. Mount Hood bore due east, and (/. zig) Captain Clark now discovered to the southeast a mountain which he had not yet seen, to which he gave the name of Mount Jefferson [Wasco Co., Ore.] Like Mount St. Helen's, its figure is a regular cone, covered with snow ; it 's probably of equal height with that mountain, though being more distant, so large a portion of it does not appear above the range of mountains which lie between these and this point. Soon riter entering the Multnomah he was met by an oid " Mt. Rainier, so called, I4,444 ft- high, whose right and true name is Tacoma, as proven and insisted by the Taconia Al.! ^ TlV of Science. ! I 111 i 924 EXPLORATION OF THE MULTNOMAH. K 1) 4 V II U Indian descending the river alone in a canoe. After some conversation with him the pilot informed Captain Claris that this old man belonged to the Clackamos nation," who reside on a river 40 miles up the Multnomah. The current of this latter river is as gentle as that of the Columbia; its surface is smooth and even, and it appears to possess water enough for the largest ship, since, on sounding with a line of five fathoms, he could find no bottom for at least one-third of the width of the stream. At the distance of seven miles he passed a sluice or opening on the right,'" 80 yards wide, which separates VVappatoo island from the continent by emptying into the inlet below. Three miles further up he reached a large wooden house on the east side, where he intended to sleep, but on entering the rooms he found such swarms of fleas that he preferred lying on the ground in the neighborhood. The guide informed him that this house is the temporary residence of the Nemalquinner*" tribe of the Cushook nation, who reside just below the falls of the Mult- nomah, but come down here occasionally to collect wapp-^- too. It was 30 feet long, and 40 deep, built of broad boards, «« First " Clark-a-mus Nation, 11 towns," on Clark's codex-map, Lewis K 28, strung along a river headed straight from Clark's Mt. Jefferson, and brought into the Multnomah "40 miles up." Printed also Clarkamus in the Estimate. On Clark's map, 1814, printed Clack-a-mus, and the river from Mt. Jefferson denoted as Clackamus. Elsewhere Clackamus, etc.; preferably now Clackama, pi. Clackamas ; latter form is present name of the county in Oregon next south of Multnomah Co., and of a town in that county on the railroad between Oregon City and Portland. The Clackama is one of the best known Upper Chinookan tribes. There are or were lately left some 50 or 60 of these Indians at the Grande Ronde Agency in Oregon. '» On his right as he ascended the Multnomah or Willamette. This is the upper opening of the great sluice of the same name, whose lower end debouches in Scappoose bay by Warrior Point. See note »', p. 914. The solitary Nemal- quinner house he presently observes was standing about the present site of St. John, five or six miles below Portland. «Soon the codex-map, Lewis K 28, and Clark's camp on the Multnomah there marked. The locality which Clark makes ten miles up river is certainly not so far-probably about St. John. The two miles farther he goes to-morrow would bring him about Waud's Bluff and Swan Island, whence it is still three or four miles to Portland. No more is known of the Nemalquinners than L. >.nd C. give. They were of Chinookan stock. i' EXPLORATION OF THE MULTNOMAH. 925 covered with the bark of white cedar ; the floor on a level with the surface of the earth, and the arrangement of the interior like those near the seacoast. The inhabitants had left their canoes, mats, bladders, train-oil, baskets, bowls, and trenchers lying about the house at the mercy of every visi- tor—a proof, indeed, of mutual respect for the property of each other, though we have had very conclusive evidence that the property of white men is {p. 220) not deemed equally sacred. The guide informed him further that a small dis- tance above were two bayous, on which were a number of small houses belonging to the Cushooks, but that the inhab- itants had all gone up to the falls of the Multnomah for the purpose of fishing. Early next morning Captain Clark proceeded up the river, which, during the night, had fallen about five inches. At the distance of two miles*' he came to the center of a bend under the high lands on the right side, from which its course, as could be discerned, was to the E.S.E. At this place the Multnomah is 500 yards wide, and for half that distance across the cord of five fathoms would not reach the bottom. It appears to be washing away its banks, and has more sand- bars and willow points than the Columbia. Its regular, gentle current, the depth, smoothness, and uniformity with which it rolls its vast body of water, prove that its supplies are at once distant and regular; nor, judging from its appearance and courses, is it rash to believe that the Multnomah and its tributary streams water the vast extent of country between the western mountains and those of the seacoast, as far, per- haps, as the waters of the Gulf of California. About eleven o'clock he reached the house of the Neerchokioo, which he found to contain eight families; but they were all so much *' The end of his reconnoissance, though the text leaves this to be discovered. For at II o'clock a.m. he had descended ih^ Multnomah, and got up the Columbia as far as the house of the Neerchokioo which stood on the Oregon s'.de of the latter river : at 3 p. m. he was at the Nechecolee village, opposite Diamond island, and soon afterward reached camp. The hiatus in the text is between the words " Gulf of California " and " About eleven o'clock." If II m 'III •M I Ih ; 926 LARGE NECHECOLEE HOUSE. alarmed at his presence, notwithstanding his visit yesterday, that he remained a very few minutes only. Soon after setting out he met five canoes filled with the same number of fami- lie'^ belonging to the Shahala nation. They were descending the river in search of subsistence, and seemed very desirous of coming alongside of the boat; but as there were 21 men on board, and the guide said that all these Shahalas, as well as their relations at the house which we had just left, were mischievous, bad men, they were not suffered to approach. At three o'clock he halted for an hour at the Nerhecolee house, where his guide resided. This large building is 226 feet in front, entirely (/. 221) above ground, and may be considered as a single house because the whole is under one roof; otherwise it would seem more like a range of buildings, as it is divided into seven distmct apartments, each 30 feet square, by means of broad boards set on end from the floor to the roof. The apartments are separated from each other by a passage or alley four feet wide, extending through the whole depth of the house, and the only entrance is from this alley, through a small hole about 22 inches wide, and not more than 3 feet high. The roof is formed of rafters with round poles laid on them longitudinally. The whole is covered with a double row of the bark of the white cedar, extending from the top 18 inches over the eaves, and secured as well as smoothed bysplmters of dried fir, inserted through it at regular dis- tances. In this manner the roof is made light, strong, and durable. Near this house are the remains of several' other large buildings, sunk in the ground, and constructed like those we had seen at the great narrows of the Columbia, belonging to the Eloots, with whom these people claim an affinity. In manner and dress these Nechecolees differ but little from the Quathlapotles and others of this neighbor- hood ; but their language is the same used by the Eloots, and though it has some words in common with the dialects spoken here, yet the whole air of the language is obviously different. The men, too, are larger, and ^ both sexes better (i f NECHECOLEE INMATES — ANOTHER MAP. 927 formed than among the nations below ; and the females are distinguished by wearing larger and longer robes — which are generally of deer-skin dressed in the hair — than the neighbor- ing women. In the house were several old people of both sexes, who were treated with much respect, and still seemed healthy, though most of them were perfectly blind. On inquiring the cause of the decline of their village, an old man, the father of the guide, and a person of some distinc- tion, brought forward a woman very much marked with the smallpox, saying that when a girl she was very near dying with the disorder which had (/. 222) left those marks, and that all the inhabitants of the houses now in ruins had fallen victims to the same disease. From the apparent age of the woman, connected with her size at the time of her illness, Captain Clark judged that the sickness must have been about 30 years ago, the period about which v/e have supposed that smallpox prevailed on the seacoast. He entered into a long conversation with regard to the adjacent country and its inhabitants, which the old man explained with great intelli- gence, and then drew with his finger, in the dust, a sketch of Multnomah river and Wappatoo island. This Captain Clark copied " and preserved. He now purchased five dogs, and taking leave of the Nechecolee village, returned to camp. ** To be incorporated with the Cashook map mentioned on p. 921, and in note'^ there : see also note ", p. 916. ««4 .•k«j i u m hi CHAPTER XXVII. THE COLUMBIA FROM SANDY RIVER TO THE DALLES. Detention to hunt— Particular account of Multnomah river, etc.— Wappatoo island and inlet— Wappatoo-roots— Wappatoo or Columbia valley— Large firs— Botany and zoology— Clack- «tars, Cathlacumups, Cathlanahquiahs, Cathlacomatups, Clannaminimuns, Clahnaquahs, Quathlapotles, Shotos, Cathlahaws, all Multnomah Indians— Clackamos river and Indians — Cushooks and Chahcowahs—Calahpoewahs— Characters of the Multnomah nations— A bear killed— The voyage resumed April 6th— Detention by the weather— Hunters sent out — Wahclellahsand Clahclellahs—Chilluckittequaws— Beacon rock— Brant island— Clahclel- lahs— Rocky Mountain goat— The Grand Rapids or Cascades— Tedious and laborious towing —Thievish Wahclellahs— Collision with them— Their good chief— Eloots— Loss of a canoe —Seven miles in three days— The long portage made— Yehhuhs and their village— Cru- latte's river— Canoe creek— Weocksockwillacums—Smackshops—Sepulcher rock— Cataract river— Quinett creek— Labiche's river— Account of the Columbia from the Rapids to the Narrows (Cascades to the Dalles)— Attempt to procure horses. aCRIDAY, April 4th, 1804. The hunters were still out in Jl every direction. Those [Gass' party] from the opposite side of the river returned with the flesh of a bear [killed by Collins] and some venison, but that of six deer and an elk which they had killed was so meager and unfit for use that they had left it in the woods. Two other deer were brought in ; but as the game seemed poor we dispatched a large party [Gibson, Shannon, Howard, and Wiser] to some low grounds on the south, six miles above us, to hunt there until our arrival. As usual many of the Indians came to our camp, some descending the rivers with their families, and others from below, with no object except to gratify their curiosity. The visit of Captain Clark to the Multnomahs enabled us to combine all that we had seen or learned of the neighbor- ing countries and nations. The most important spot is Wappatoo island, a large extent of country lying between the Multnomah and an arm of the Columbia, which [latter, now called Willamette Slough] we have called Wappatoo inlet, and separated from the mainland by a sluice 8c yards wide, which at the distance (/>. 224) of seven miles up the 938 WAPPATOO ISLAND — WAPPATOO. 929 Multnomah connects that river with the inlet. The island thus formed is about 20 miles long, and varies in breadth from five to ten miles; the land is high, extremely fertile, and on most parts supplied with a heavy growth of Cottonwood, ash, large-leaved ash, and sweet-willow; the black alder common to the coast having now dis- appeared. But the chief wealth of this island consists of the numer- ous ponds in the interior, abounding with the common arrowhead (sagittaria sagittifolia [Sagittaria variabilis]) to the root of which is attached a bulb growing beneath it in the mud. This bulb, to which the Indians give the name of wappatoo, is the great article of food, and almost the staple article of commerce on the Columbia. It is never out of sea- son ; so that at all times of the year the valley is frequented by the neighboring Indians who come to gather it. It is collected chiefly by the women, who employ for the purpose canoes from 10 to 14 feet in length, about 2 feet wide and 9 inches deep, and tapering from the middle, where they are about 20 inches wide. They are sufificient to contain a single person and several bushels of roots, yet so very light that a woman can carry them with ease. She takes one of these canoes into a pond where the water is as high as the breast, and by means of her toes separates from the root this bulb, which on being freed from the mud rises immediately to the surface of the water, and is thrown into the canoe. In this manner these patient females remain in the water for several hours, even in the depth of winter. This plant is found through the whole extent of the valley in which we now are, but does not grow on the Columbia farther east- ward. This valley is bounded westward by the mountainous country bordering the coast, from which it extends eastward 30 miles in a direct line, till it is closed by the range of mountains crossing the Columbia above the Great Falls. Its length from north to south we are unable to determine, but we believe that the valley must extend to a great distance. t. w t 1 if ■ ; • (•. Iff! '' ''■ 930 WAITATOO VAM,RY— I'l.ANTS AND ANIMALS. It is in fadt tiic only desirable situation for a (/. 22j) settle- mont on the western side of the Rocky mountains, and being naturally fertile, would, if properly cultivated, afford subsist- ence for 40,000 or 50.000 souls. The highlands are gener- ally of a dark rich loam, not much injured by stones ; though waving they are by no means too steep for cultivation, and a few miles from the river they widen, at least on the north side, into rich extensive prairies. The timber on them is abundant, and consists almost exclusively of the several species of fir already described, some of which grow to a great height. We measured a fallen tree of that species, and found that, including the stump of about six feet, it was 318 feet in length, though its diameter was only three feet. The dogwood [Cornns mitt alii] is also abundant on the uplands ; it differs from that of the United States in having a much smoother bark and in being much larger, the trunk attaining a diameter of nearly two feet. There is some white cedar of a large size, but no pine of any kind. In the bottom-lands are the cottonwood, ash, large-leaved ash, and sweet-willow. Interspersed with these are the pashcquaw, shanataque, and compound fern, of which the natives use the roots ; the red flowering currant abounds on the upland, while along the river-bottoms grow luxuriantly the watercress, strawberry, cinquefoil, narrow-dock, sand-rush, and flowering pea, which latter is not yet in bloom. There is also a species of bear's- claw now blooming, but the large-leaved thorn has dis- appeared, nor do we see any longer the huckleberry, the shallun, or any of the other evergreen shrubs which bear berries, except that species the leaf of which has a prickly margin. Among the animals we observe the martin, small geese, small speckled woodpecker with a white back {^Picus villosus harrisi\ blue-crested corvus {Cyanocitta stcllcri\ ravens crows, eagles, vultures, and hawks. The mellow bug, long- legged spider, butterfly, blowingfly, and tick, have already made their appearance, but none [some] of all these arc distinguished from animals (/. 226) of the same sort in the if 5 ' >.^-, ,. , VVAITATOO OR MULTNOMAH INDIANS. 931 Unitrd States. The mosquitoes, too, have resumed their visits, but arc not yet troublesome.' The nations which inhabit this fertile neighborhood are very numerous. Wappatoo in' t extends, 300 yards wide, for ten or twelve miles to the south, as far as the hills, near which it receives the waters of a small creek' whose sources are not far from those of the Killamuck [Tillamook] river. On that creek resides the Clackstar" nation, a numerous people of i,20o souls, who subsist on fish and wappatoo, and who trade by means of the Killamuck river with the nation of that name on the seacoast. Lower down the inlet, toward the Columbia, is the tribe called Cathlacumup. On the sluice which connects the inlet with the Multnomah are the tribes Cathlanahquiah and Cathlacomatup : on VVappa- too island, the tribes of Clannahminamun and Clahnaquah. ' The plants and animals grouped under Apr. 4th are mainly as per Clark Q 90, 91, Lewis K 31. where "mellow" buR is for " mellon " bug, i.e., melon-hugi here meaning DiahrotUa soror, the Pacific coast representative of our common chrysomeliil, D. duodecimprntctata. - Apparently the Scappoose. Columbia Co., Ore. Clark's codex-map, Lewis K 28, charts it. and marks the Clackstar village at its mouth. The several other tribes named in this par.igraph are also there laid down. An old post of the Hudson's Bay Company was located hereabouts, named Milton. It gave name also to a creek falling into Skapoosh or Scappoose bay. » For Indians already mentioned, whose names recur in this paragraph, see preceding notes in the last chapter. For Clackstars, see note «», p. 915. The Cathlanaquiahs (so in the Estimate also, but Cath-Lih-nah-ouiah on the codex-map) were a small body of Chinookan stock, speaking the Katldmet dialect on the S.W. side of Wappatoo island. The name is more properly Gatla- nakoa-iq, from the river Nakoaiq. The Cathlacomatups of the text are charted on the codex-map as Cath-lah- com-mah-tup. The .Shoto village is 'charted on the codex-map on the north bank of I ake river, at a place where this river widens into a slough or narrow pond, a short distance west of Lake Vancouver. The Cathlahaws were .ilso a Chinookan tribe. The Chahcowahs, in the Estimate Charcowahs, also Charcowas, were another Chmookan tribe located as stated in the text. Their village is charted Char- cow-ah on the codex-map already often cited, on the Multnomah, next above •he Cashooks, just beyond some mountains through which the river is represented as passing, on its left bank opposite mouth of a small river making from the east, considerably south of the Clackamas. I I 932 WAPPATOO AND OTHER INDIANS. 1; '•U In ''"^ Immediately opposite, near the Tovvahnahiooks [Chawah- nahiooks river, i. c, Lewis'], are the Quathlapotles ; higher up on thic side of the Columbia, the Shotos. All these tnoes, as well as the Cathlahaws, who live somewhat lo^ei on the river, and havs an old village on Deer Island, may be con- . sidered as parts of the great Multnomah nation, which has its principal resideuce on Wappatoo island, near the mouth of the large river to which they give their name. Forty miles above its junction with the Columbia, it receives the waters of the Clr-ckamos, a river which may be traced through a woody and fertile country to its sources on Mount Jefferson, almost to the foot of which it is navigable for canoes. A nation of the same name resides in 11 villages along its borders ; they live chiefly on fish and roots, which abound in the Clackamos and along its banks, though they sometimes descend to the Columbia to gather wappatoo, whe-e they cannot be distinguished by dress, manners, or language from the tribes of Multnomahs, Two days' journey from the Col- umbia, or about 20 miles beyond the entrance of the Clacka- mos, are the falls of the Multnomah.* At this place are the permanent residences of the Cushooks (/. 227) and Chahco- wahs, two tribes who are attracted to that place by the fish, and by the convenience of trading, across the mountains and down Killamuck river, with the nation of Killamucks, from whom they procure train-oil. These falls are occasioned by the passage of a high range of mountains, beyond which the country stretches into a vast level plain, wholly destitute of timber. As far as the Indians with whom we conversed had ever penetrated that country, it is inhabited by a nation called Calahpoewah,* a very numerous people whose villages, * Not to be confounded with the beautiful cascade on the Oregon side of the Columbia, ho7o called Multnomah Falls, nor with a place ther- of the same name. These are below the Cascades of the Columbia, and we shall soon pass them, going up river. See p. 937. 5 Cal-lah-po-e-wah, Clark, in K 28; 15 villages charted. These are entirely dif- ferent from any of the other tribes mentioned in this paragraph. Though classed by Keane as Chinooks, they belong to a diderent linguistic stock, now called the Kalapooian family, to which they give name. The Calahpoewah of Lewis and CHARAV.TERISTICS OF THESE INDIANS. 933 nearly 40 in number, are scattered along each side of the Multnomah, which furnishes them with their chief subsist- ence— fish and the roots along its banks. All the tribes in the neighborhood of Wappatoo island we have considered as Multnomahs — not because they are in any degree subordinate to that nation, but as they all seem to regard the Multnomahs as the most powerful. There is no distinguished chief, except the one at the head of the Multnomahs ; and they are, moreover, linked by a similarity of dress, manners, houses, and language, which, much more than the feeble restraints of Indian gov- ernment, contribute to make one people. These circum- stances also separate them from nations lower down the river. The Clatsops, Chinnooks, Wahkiacums, and Cathla- mahs understand each other perfectly ; their language varies, however, in some respects from that of the Skilloots ; but on reaching the Multnomah Irdians, we found that though many words were the same as, and a great number differed only in the mode of accenting them from, those employed by the Indians near the mouth of the Columbia, yet there was a very sensible variation of language. The natives of this valley are larger and rather better shaped than those of the seacoast ; their appearance is gen- erally healthy, but they are afflicted with the common dis- ease of the Columbia— soreness of the eyes. To whatever [cause] this disorder may be imputed, it is a great national ca'amity ; at all ages their eyes are sore {p. 228) and weak ; the loss of one eye is by no means uncommon ; in grown Clark are a main tribe of the Kalapooiah of Scolder (Journ. Roy. Geogr. Soc. London, XI. 1841, p. 225), and of the Kalapuya of Hale (U. S. Expl. Exped. "VII. 1846, pp. 217, 564), and other authors ; they are the Calapooya of Ban- croft (Nat. Races, III. 1882, i)p. 565, 620). The various tribes of the Kala- pooian family inhabited the valley of the Willamette river in Oregon, up to the headwaters of that stream ; but they were cut off from the Columbia by Chinook tribes, so that Lewis and Clark only knew them from Indian information. Six or eight tribes of this family have been recognized. A mere handful sur- vive, all at the Grande Ronde Agency in Oregon, as far as is known. The cen- sus of 1890 gives 171 in all, of which the Calapooyas themselves are 22. 034 ill CnAKACTKKISTirS (W TIII'SK INDIANS. i M persons totiil blindness is frequent, and almost universal in old aj;e. The dress of the men has nothing' different from that used below; but they are chieHy remarked by a passion for larjrc brass buttons, which they fix on a sailor's jacket, when they are so fortunate as to ()l;tain one, without re^^ard to any arran^aMTient. The women also wear the short robe already described ; but their hair is m.xst commonly braided into two tresses falling over each ear in front of the body, and instead of the tissue of bark, they employ a piece of leather in the shape of a pocket handkerchief, tied aw and the loins. This last is their only and ineffectual defense when the warmth of the weather induces them to throw aside the robe. The houses are in jjcncral on a level with the ground, though some are sunk to the depth of two or three feet into' the ground, and like those near the coast are adorned or dis- figured by carvings or paintings on the posts, doors, and beds. They do not possess any peculiar weapon except a kind of broad-sword made of iron, from three to four feet long, the blade about four inches wide, very thin and sharp at .dl its edges as well as at the point. They have also bludgeons of wood in the same form : both kinds generally hang at the head of their beds. These are formidable weapons. Like the natives of the scacoast, thc>- are also very fond of cold, hot, and vaj^or baths, which are used at all seasons, for the purpose of health as well as pleasure. They, how- ever, add a species of bath peculiar to themselves, by wash- ing the whole body with urine every morning. The mode of burying the dead in canoes is no longer* practiced by the natives here. The place of deposit is a vault formetl of boards, slanting like the roof of a house from a pole su[)ported by two forks. Under this vault the (lead are placed horizontally on boards, on the surface of the " Moaning; that tlie Kxiicilition is " no l.ini,'or " in a rci^ion where canoe-hurial is ,nacticc(l— not that the Multnoin.ih or W.iiipatoo Iiulians liave desisteil from any former scaphof.nphic custom. CM'TURE OF THE HEAR's CUBS. 935 earth, and carefully covered with mats. Many bodies are here laid on each other, to the heijjht of three or four corpses; and different articles, which were most esteemed by the dead, are (/>. 33g) placed by their side, their canoes themselves being sometimes brok'en to strengthen the vault. The trade of all these inhabitants is in anchovies and stur- geon, but chiefly in wappatoo, to obtain which the inhabit- ants, both above and below them on the river, come at all seasons, and supply in turn beads, cloth, and various other articles procured from the Europeans. April %t/i. We dried our meat as well as the cloudy weather would permit. In the course of his chase yester- day, one of our men [Collins), who had killed the bear, found the den of another with three cubs in it. He returned [with Gass and Windsor'] to-day in hopes of finding her, but brought only the cubs, without being able to see the dam ; and on this occasion Drewyer, our most experienced hunts- man, assured us that he had never known a single instance where a female bear, which had once been disturbed by a hunter and obliged to leave her young, returned to them again. The young bears were sold for wappatoo to some of the many Indians who visited us in parties during the day and behaved very well. Having made our preparations of dried meat, we set out next morning, April 6t/i, by nine o'clock, continued along the north side of the river for a few miles, and then crossed the river to look for the hunters who had been sent forward day before yesterday. We found them at the upper end of the bottom with Some Indians — for we are never freed from the visits of the natives. They had killed three elk, and wounded two others so badly that it was still possible to get them. We T.ass, p. 194, says uiuler date of April 3d that, being out hunting witli some of the men, he " saw 3 small cubs in a den, but the M bear was not with them." April 4th, p. 194, he makes another entry : " I went out with two more to the < I I therefore landed [on the south side, after coming ten miles], and haviii},^ prepared scaffolds and secured the five elk, we camped for the night." The following evening, A/>r// 7///," the wcMther having been fair and pleasant, we had dried a sufficient (juantity of meat to serve us as far as the Chopunnish, with occasional supplies, if we can pro- cure them, of roots, dogs, and horses. In the course of the day several parties of Shahalas, from a village eight miles above (/. jjo) us, came to visit us, and behaved themselves very properly, except that we were obliged to turn one of them from the camp for stealing a piece of lead. Every- thing was now ready for our departure ; but in the morning, yl/>n7 S//i, the wind blew with great violence, and we were obliged to unload our boats, which were soon after filled with water.'" The same cause prevented our setting out to-day; we therefore dispatched several hunters around the neigh- borhood, but in the evening they came back with nothing but a duck. They had, however, seen some of the black- tailed or jumping fallow-deer [Carian/s columhianHs\ like those about Fort Clatsop, which are scarce near this place, « Not cdite.l with l?i(lillc's h.nhitual precision. Lewis K 32 s.iys that the dis- t.ince made to-day was ten miles ; camp was pitched on the south ; the Expedition IS therefore in Multnomah Co., Ore., .about ten miles above the mouth of Ouick- sand or Sandy river, somewhere above Cape Horn, and in view of Heacon'rock- but 1 cannot tix the sjiot. If was about the end of the low country on the' Oregon side— for all the route of Apr. <)th from this camp to Hcacon rock was between precipices. See Nov. 2d, pp. 688, 689. 'Clark Q ()3-<)9, (his d.ate, h.as a long description of a " bird like a qu.iil," which he killed to-day, \.v.\ of which there is no notice anywhere in the Hiddlo text. IVrhaps it was passed over because it was not recognized— and no wonder, for here is probably the first descrijition ever penned of the beautiful mountain quail of California, Onortyx picta, unknown to science till described as Ortvx picta by Douglas, Trans. I.inn. Soc. of London, \VL 1829, p. 143. The . ^j2) ill treatment. While we were at breakfast the grand chief of the Chil- luckittequaws [note ", p. 67^] arrived, with two inferior chiefs several and men and women of his nation. They were returning home after trading in the Columbian valley, and '' See the plate of the " Great Shoot or Rapids " (Cascades) where " Villaee " IS lettered, at head of Strawberry island, on the Washington side, opposite lower point of Brant island. Here, it will be remembered, was our camp of Nov 1st (see this date, p. 685) ; and here is now town of Cascades '»'' A number of the Indians visit us daily ; and the females in general have that e.ther covering round their loins, which is somewhat in the form of a truss, L-ass, p. 195, Apr. 5th. ¥' BEACON ROCK. 939 were loaded with wappatoo and dried anchovies, which, with some beads, they had obtained in exchange for chappelell, bear-grass, and other small articles. As these people had been very kind to us as we descended the river, we endeav- ored to repay them by every attention in our power. After purchasing, with much difificulty, a few dogs and some wap- patoo from the Wahclellahs, we left them at two o'clock, and passing under the Beacon rock reached, in two hours, the Clahclellah village. Beacon rock,'* which we now observed more accurately than as we descended, stands on the north side of the river, insulated from the hills. The northern side has a partial growth of fir or pine. To the south it rises in an unbroken precipice to the height of 700 feet, where it terminates in a sharp point, and may be seen at the distance of 20 miles below. This rock may be considered as the commencement of tide-water, though the influence of the tide is perceptible here in autumn only, at which time the water is low. What the precise difference at those seasons is, we cannot deter- mine ; but on examining a rock which wc lately passad, and comparing its appearance with that which we observed last November, we judge the flood of this spring to be twelve feet above the height of the river at that time. From Bea- con rock, as low as the marshy islands, the general width of the river is from one to two miles, though in many places it is still greater. On landing at the Clahclellahs' we found them busy erect- ing their huts, which seem to be of a temporary kind only, so that most probably they do not remain longer than the salmon season. Like their countrymen, whom we had just left, these people were sulky and ill-humored, and so much on the alert to pilfer that we were obliged to keep them at a distance from our baggage. As (/. 2jj) our large canoes '* Beacon Rock does not seem to be now so called, or to have ever been gener- ally known by the name. I have yet to find it on any map. I have once found it marked Castle Rock (as I suppose), and am informed that it is now commonly called Pyramid mountains. See p. 688. '1 i; •h! 'fH a f if M 940 CAMP AT FOOT OF THE CASCADES. could not ascend the rapids on the north side, we passed to the opposite shore and entered the narrow channel which separates it from Brant island. The weather was very cold and rainy, and the wind so high that we were afraid to attempt the rapids this evening ; therefore, finding a safe harbor, we camped for the night. The wood in this neigh- borhood has lately been on f^re,and the firs have discharged considerable quantities of pitch, which we collected for some of our boats. We saw to-day some turkey-buzzards [Ca- thartes aura\ which are the first we have observed on this side of the Rocky mountains. April \oth. Early in the morning we dropped down the channel to the lower end of Brant island, and then drew our boats up the rapid." At the distance of a quarter of a mile we crossed over to the village of Clahclellahs, consisting of six houses, on the opposite side. The river is here about 400 yards wide, and the current so rapid that although we employed five oars for each canoe, we were borne down a considerable distance. While we were at breakfast one of the Indians offered us two sheep-skins for sale ; one, which " The Columbian Cascades.-\.. and C. do not use the term " Cascades " in any of us present senses. Until their narrative has been mastered, their graphic and faithful descriptions may not be grasped by the casual reader, because the same descriptive terms. " falls " "shoots," " rapids." "narrows," etc.. repeatedly occur m connection with the obstructions to navigation in entirely different and widely separated places along the river. Moreover, the familiar word " Dalles " does not occur in their work. Perhaps a few words serving as stepping-stones may help the reader to make the portage of these difficult places. At this point the Expedition has reached the head of tide-water, 50 miles above Vancouver, which is six miles above the mouth of the Multnomah. They are in the heart of the Cascade range, which stretches north-south. and through which the Columbia has burst its way from east to west. Here the sleepless sentinel Beacon Rock, cliallenges further progress, as the river rushes through the last contraction of its water-way to the sea. The whole of this strait-jacketing is I he Cascades." The actual distance is about 4^ miles. But the pitch is not uniformly continuous for this distance. Consequently "The Cascades" is divis- ible into conveniently recognized sections. The pitch is greatest at the head of Ihe Cascades, where the riter makes a double rectangular bend around a rocky point on the Oregon shore. This point is now called the "Upper Cascades " • here is also now the place on the Oregon side called " Cascade Locks " • here is lif^ ROCKY MOUNTAIN GOAT. 941 was the skin of a full-grown sheep," was as large as that of a common deer; the second was smaller, and the skin of the head, with the horns remaining, was made into a cap, highly- prized as an ornament by the owner. He, however, sold the cap to us for a knife, and the rest of the skin for those of two elk ; but as they observed our anxiety to purchase the other ^kin, they would not accept the same price for it, and as we hoped to procure more in the neighborhood, we did not offer a greater. The horns of the animal were black, smooth, and erect ; they rise from the middle of the forehead, a little above the eyes, in a cylindrical form, to the height of four inches, where they are pointed. The Clahclellahs informed us that these sheep are very abundant on the heights and among the cliffs of the adjacent mountains ; and that these two had been lately killed out of a herd of 36, at no great distance from the (/. ^j^ ) village. We were soon joined by our hunters with three black-tailed fallow-deer \Cariams columbiamis] ; and having purchased a few white salmon, proceeded on our route. The south side of the river is impassable, and the rapidity of the current, as well likewise the "head of the rapids" of L. and C, their " great shoot or rapid " and their " portage " : see the plate. Here they camped on an island, Oct. 30th, going down, and here they will camp, on the Washington mainland, Apr. 12th,' going up. These " Upper Cascades " make about a mile— a stretch' included in the " portage " of L. and C, and itself divisible into their " great shoot " at its head, 2,000 feet long, with a fall of 21 feet, and their " bad rapid" at its foot. All the rest of the contracted water-way, or about ^y^ miles, answers to the name of " Lower Cascades." The lower end of this long pitch is the " foot of the rapids," between the head of Strawberry island (camp Nov. ist) and the heel of Brant island (camp Apr. gth). Mere on the Washington side is now ' ' Cascades " (town). A mail-boat ascends without difficulty, through a 2,000 foot rapid with a velocity of eight miles an hour, to the head of Bradford island. The engineer- ing plan of improvement was to flank I'le Upper Cascades with a 3,000-foot canal and clear out the Lower Cascades by blasting. The total fall, from the head of the Upper to the foot of the Lower Cascades was found to be 45 feet at high water, 36 feet at low water ; total distance between these points, 23,000 feet. An annual flood occurs in June with precise periodicity. (Compare the corre- sponding note about the " Dalles," 50 miles further up river, p. 954.) '• As presently appears, these "sheep "were the mountain go&i, Haplocer us viontanits. See p. 850, and note there. :'U ^1 '■';l 942 HONKST Cr.AIICLKM.AlIS. I II ,1 ,; I,.- 1. ^j6) people do not, as we are compelled to do, drag their canoes up the rapids, but leave them at the heaJ as they descend, and carrying their goods across the port- age, hire or borrow others from the people below. When the trade is over they return to the foot of the rapids, where they leave these boats and resume their own at the head of the portage. The labor of carrying the goods across is equally shared by the men and women, and we were struck by the contrast between the decent conduct of all the natives from above, and the profligacy and ill-manners of the Wahclellahs. About three-quarters of a mile below our camp is a burial-ground, which seems common to the Wah- clellahs, Clahclellahs, and Yehhuhs. It consists of eight sepulchers on the north bank of the river." A/>ri/ \2th. The rain continued all night and this morn- ing. Captain Lewis now took with him all the men fit for duty, and began to drag the remaining pcriogue over the rapids. This has become much more difficult than when we passed in the autumn ; at that time there were in the whole distance of seven miles only three difficult points; but the water is now very considerably higher, and during all that distance the ascent is exceedingly laborious and dangerous ; nor would it be practicable to descend, except by letting down the empty boats by means of ropes. The route over this part, from the foot to the head of the portage, is about three miles ; the canoes which had been already dragged up by an exchange, as a further proof of his being esteemed by the white trader he gave us a well backed baked saylor's bisquit which he also informed us he had received from Swippcton." This is the " Swipton " of p. 790. ""See " 8 Vaults " marked on the plate, and for description see p. 682. n CAMP AT HEAU OF THE CASCADES. 945 were very much injured by bcintr driven atrainst the rocks, which no precautions could prevent. This morning, as we were drawing the fifth canoe around a projecting rock against which the current sets with great violence, she unfortunately offered too much of her side to the stream. It then drove her with such force that with all the exertions of the party we were unable to hold her; we were forced to let go the cord and see her drift down the stream, to be irrecoverably lost. We then began to carry our effects across the port- age, but as all those who had short rifles took them in order to repel any attack from the Indians, it was not until (/, 2j^) five o'clock in the afternoon that the last of the party reached the head of the rapids," accompanied by our new friend, the Clahclcllah chief. The afternoon being so far advanced, and the weather rainy and cold, we determined to halt for the night, though very desirous of going on ; for during the three last days we have not advanced more than seven miles. The portage is 2,800 yards, along a narrow road, at all times rough, and now rendered slippery by the rain. About halfway is an old village," which the Clahclellah chief informs us is the occasional residence of his tribe. These houses are uncommonly large ; one of them measured 160 by 40 feet ; the frames arc constructed in the usual manner, except that it is double, so as to appear like one house within another. The floors are on a level with the ground ; the roofs have been taken down and sunk in a pond behind the village. We find that our conduct yesterday has made the Indians much more respectful ; they do not crowd about us in such numbers, and behave with much more propriety. Among those who visited us were about 20 of the Yehhuhs," a tribe of Shahalas, whom we had found on the north side of the river, »' This obscure sentence means that it took them thus long to transport the baggage because they had to also carry their rifles. Camp at head of the " Great Shoot or Rapid," on the north shore ; it is close to that of Oct. 30th, but the latter was on the largest of the islands in the river at this place. S ,;.• note ", p. 680. " See " Old Village " marked on the plate, opposite words " A bad Rapid!" «3 Y-ch-huh, Lewis K 55 ; Wey-eh-hoo, Gass, p. 199. See note", p. 7C1. " I'li: H\ I 946 THE YEHHUHS, A TRIBE OF SHAHALAS. immediately above the rapids, but who had now emigrated to the opposite shore, where they generally take sahnon Like their relations, the Wahclellahs, they have taken their houses with them, so that only one is now standing where the old village was. We observe, generally, that the houses which have the floor on a level with the earth are smaller, and have n.ore the appearance of being temporary than those which are sunk in the ground ; whence we presume that the former are the dwellings during spring and summer, while the latter arc reserved for the autumn and winter! Most of the houses are built of boards and covered with bark, though some of the more inferior kind are constructed wholly of cedar-bark, kept smooth and flat by small splinters fixed crosswise through the bark, at the distance of 12 or 14 mches apart. There is but little difference in appearance between these (/. 238) Yehhuhs, Wahclellahs, Clahclellahs, and Neerchokioos, who compose the Shahala nation. On comparing the vocabulary of the Wahclellahs with that of the Chinnooks, we found that the names for numbers were precisely the same, though the other parts of the language were essentially different. The women of all these tribes braid the hair, pierce the nose, and some of them have lines of dots reaching from the ankle as high as the middL- of the leg. These Yehhuhs behaved with great propriety, and con- demned the treatment we had received from the Wahclel- lahs. We purchased from one of them the skm of a sheep [goat, Haploccriis montanus] killed near this place, for which we gave in exchange the skins of a deer and an elk. These animals, he tells us, usually frequent the rocky parts of the mountains, where they are found in great numbers. The bighorn {Ovis inontand] is also an inhabitant of these moun- tains, and the natives have several robes made of their skms. The mountains near this place are high, steep, and strewed with rocks, which are principally black. Several species of fir, white pine, and white cedar, form their covering, while near the river we see cottonwood, sweet-willow, a species of maple, broad-leaved ash, purple haw, a small species of cherry, YEHHUH VILLAGE— CRUZATTE'S RIVER. 947 purple currant, gooseberry, red-willow, vming" and white- berry honeysuckle, huckleberry, sacacommis, two kinds of mountain holly, and the common ash. April iith. The loss of our periogue yesterday obliges us to distribute our loading between the two canoes and the two remaining periogues. This being done we proceeded along the north side of the river, but soon finding that the increased loading rendered our vessels difficult to manage, if not dangerous in case of high wind, the two periogues only continued on their route, while Captain Lewis, with the canoes, crossed over to the Yehhuh village, with a view of purchasing one or two more canoes. The village now con- sisted of 1 1 houses, crowded with inhabitants, and about 60 fighting men. They were very well disposed, and we found no difficulty in procuring two small canoes, in exchange {p. 2jp) for two robes and four elk-skins. He also pur- chased with deer-skins three dogs— an animal which has now become a favorite food, for it is found to be a strong, healthy diet, preferable to lean deer or elk, and much superior to horseflesh in any state. With these he proceeded along the south side of the river, and joined us in the evening. We had gone along the north shore as high as Cruzatte's [Wind : p. 679] river, to which place we had sent some hunters [Drewyer and R. and J. Fields] day before yesterday, and where we were detained by the high winds. The hunters, however, did not join us, and we therefore, as soon as the wind had abated, proceeded on for six miles, where we halted " for Captain Lewis, and in the meantime went out to hunt. We [Shields] procured two black-tailed fallow-deer, which seemed to be the only kind inhabiting these moun- tains. Believing that the hunters were still below us, we dispatched [Sergeant Pryor and two men in] a small canoe back for them, and in the morning, ''* That is, twining like a vine. "This camp, unspecified for position, was on the north side, in Skamania Co., Wash., and by text six miles above Cruzatte's or Wiiid river. It is therefore not much short of Little White Salmon river, a considerable stream which is passed without mention both ways. See note '', p. 678. I ' H ii' 948 CANOE CREEK— WEOCKSOCKWILLACUMS. Aj>ri/ 14//,, they all joined us, with four more deer. After breakfast we resumed our journey, and though the wind was high dunng the day, yet by keeping along the northern shore we were able to proceed without danger. At one o clock vve halted for dinner at a large village situated in a narrow bottom, just above the entrance of Canoe creek.- The houses are detached from each other, so as to occupy an extent of several miles, though only 20 in number. Those which are inhabited are on the surface of the earth, and built in the same shape as those near the rapids ; but there were others at present evacuated, which are completely under ground. They are sunk about eight feet deep, covered with strong timbers and several feet of earth in a conical form. On descending by means of a ladder through a hole at the top, which answers the double purpose of a door and a chimney, we found that the house consisted of a single room, nearly circular and about 16 feet in diameter . »f;."^^^''^"*'' ^^° '^^^ themselves Weocksockwilla- cum, differ but little from those near the rapids, the chief {p. 240) distmction in dress being a few leggings and moc- casins, which we find here like those worn by the Chopun- nish These people have ten or twelve very good horses, which are the first we have seen since leaving this neighbor- hood last autumn. The country below is, indeed, of such a na ure as to prevent the use of this animal, except in the Columbian valley ; and there they would [not^'l be of ureat service, for the inhabitants reside chiefly on the river side and the country is too thickly wooded to suffer them to hunt game on horseback. Most of these, they inform us, have tiei: wi't::r.^- -ty^-'-y ^--„ S^a^ania an. Kli.i.at coun- Columb.an vally-and there the present inhabitants have no uce fo h J^a thev reside immediately on the river and the country is ton fh.vn .• I T ^ them to run the game with horses if thej hadfhem •• ' "'"'' "^ ''''''' '■-■r<^*!ieki*.~entAm^^.*jia ; ^r. After wind was northern At one ited in a - creek."" 3 occupy . Tiiose ind built ere were y under :red with al form. 2 at the ir and a 1 single )ckwilla- ae chief id moc- "hopun- horses, :ighbor- such a in the )f great er side, to hunt IS, have itat coun- and com- the text. ; country ;pt in the r. as they to admit SMACKSHOPS— SEPULCHER ROCK. 949 been taken in a warlike excursion which was lately made against the Towanahiooks, a part of the Snake nation living in the upper part of the Multnomah, to the southeast of this place. Their language is the same with that of the Chil luckittequaws. They seemed inclined to be very civil and gave us in exchange some roots, shapelell [sic], filberts, dried berries, and five dogs. After dinner we proceeded and, passing at the distance of six miles the high cliffs on the left, camped at the mouth of a small run on the same [north '»] side. A little above us is a village, consisting of about 100 fighting men of a tribe called Smackshops.^" many of whom passed the evening with us They do not differ in any respect from the inhabitants of the village below. In hopes of purchasing horses we did not set out next morning, Apri/ ist/i, till after breakfast. In the meantime we ex- posed our merchandise and made them various offers • but as they declined bartering, we left them and soon reached Sepulcher rock," where we halted a few minutes. The rock Itself stands near the middle of the river, and contains about two acres of ground above high water. On this surface are scattered 13 vaults constructed like those below the rapids some of them more than half filled with dead bodies. After ^' This " small run " I have not succeeded in identifying satisfactorily. Several such runs make m on the Washington side between White Salmon or Canoe and Khk.tat or Cataract river, and one of them is about the right distance above the former ; but its name I have not learned. The Major's creek of note '« p 677, seems a little too high up for the one here in question. Camp should be in the vicinity of he present town of White Salmon. Hood s or Labiche's river from the south, has been passed without notice. 30 See note '^ p. 673, and " Smacshop 300 souls " of Clark's 1814 map river TH ' f f .^'^^' '''^"'' '°'^''"^ ""^^ "^"^^ '^l^- C^^-^"^' (KHkitat) nver. Those marked Grave Rocks " on Wilkes' map of 1841 seem to be too lo« down fur the place in mention here, but may be the same " Memaloose Alahee, incorrect yocated. Such rocks liave been used from time .ut of mind for sepulture Iry Klik.tats and other Indians. One of them, whose location is old" Vi '•• ^'''\^'\'''' '^^"-' '^^ '^tely become noted through a whim of it /a . V'T' "• '^^°" ''"'"'"■' ''^° "'''^"^ '"^ b°^y '« be placed there. He died at San rrancisco in January, 1883 ; his wishes were carried out in the following March, and over his hones is now a handsome monument hli't 1 I if 11 f : ff H^H a '^^1 1 ; I^^^l s^^^^l ^^H i, ^^^^^1 1 ■ ,4 950 ROCK FORT CAMP, AT THE DALLES. *•' ■ satisfying our curiosity with these venerable remains, we returned to the northern shore, and proceeded to a village at the distance of four miles. On land- (/. 241) ing, we found that the inhabitants belonged to the same nation we had just left; as they also had horses, we made a second attempt to furnish a few of them ; but with all our dex-.erity in exhibiting our wares, we could not induce them to sell, as we had none of the only articles which they seemed desirous of procuring— a sort of war-hatchet, called by the northwest traders an eye-dog. We therefore purchased two dogs, and taking leave of these Weocksockwillacums, pro- ceeded to another of their villages, just below the entrance of Cataract [Klikitat : p. 667, Oct. 29th] river. Here too we tried in vain to purchase some horses, nor did we meet with more success at two villages of Chilluckittequaws, a few miles further up the river. At three in the afternoon we came to the mouth of Quinett creek,=' which we ascended a short distance, and camped for the night at the spot we had called Rock fort." Here we were soon visited by some of the people from the Great Narrows and Falls ; and on our expressing a wish to purchase horses, they agreed to meet us to-morrow on the north side of the river, where we would '■' Before called Quenett river ; see note «, p. 669. A name of this creek, not before noted, is Wasco (as Stevens' map No. 3, with The Dalles called Was- copam). Winquat and Kaclasco are also given as names of the place. «'Gassnotes,p. 199, "r««,/a,'i5//^ . . . passed a place where there was a vil- lage in good order last fall when we went down ; but it has been lately torn down, and again erected at a short distance from the old pround where it formerly stood.' The reason of this removal I cannot conjecture, unless [it is] to avoid the fleas,' which are more numerous in this country than any insects I ever saw." His editor notes a passage from A. McKenzie : " We had however the curiosity to visit the houses (of a deserted village) which were erected upon posts ; and we suffered very severely from the indulgence of it ; for the floors were covered with fleas, and we were immediately in the same condition, for which we had no rem- edy but to take to the water. There was not a spot round the houses, free from grass, that was not alive, as it were, with this vermin." This night's camp, " Rock fort " in the text, is called " Rock camp" by Gass, and elsewhere Fort Rock, or Fort Rock camp. See note », p. O69. B.;fore there was any Dalles City, an establishment here was called Fort Dalles, on Mill (Wasco) creek. From this stream eastward, toward the Des Chutes, comes a remarkable set of DOTED TREES IN THE RIVER. 951 open a traffic. They then returned to their villages to col- lect the horses. April i6th. In the morning Captain Clark crossed with nine men and a large part of our merchandise, in order to purchase twelve horses to transport our baggage, and some pounded l.sh as a reset ve during the passage of the Rocky mountains. The rest of the men were employed in huntin^r and preparing saddles. ^ From the Rapids [/. e., Cascades] to this place, and indeed as far as the commencement of the Narrows \i. e., Dalles], the Columbia is from half a mile to three-quarters in width, and possesses scarcely any current. Its bed consists princi- pally of rock, except at the entrance of Labiche [Hood : see p. 677] river, which takes its rise in Mount Hood, from which, like Quicksand river, it brings down vast quantities of sand.' Dunng the whole course of the Columbia from the Rapids to theChilluckittequaws are the trunks of many large pine-trees standing erect in the water, (/. 242) which is 30 feet deep at present, and never less than ten. These trees could never have grown in their present site, for they are all very much doated [sic'^l and none of them vegetate ; so that the only streams known as Three-mile. Five-mile. Eight-mile and Fifteen-mile, accord- n>g to their successive distances by the trail from Dalles. The first of these, also called Holman creek, is a separate stream, falling into the Columbia. The other three are branches of one stream which falls into the Columbia That one of these two disemboguements which occurs immediately below the"" ereat bas.n at the foot of the Long Narrows, is clearly charted on Clark's unpubhshed codex-map. H 3. This map also marks the first creek on the Oregon side below Ualles. now known as Chenoweth or Cheneweth. "''An archaic and probablv disused form of doted, meaning decayed, as a tree The verb as used m this sense is classed as an English provincialism by the ed tor of the Century Dictionary, who also marks doted, adj., as obsolete Eut I fear my much esteemed friend and collaborator is mistaken on this point for die word IS not a rare locution in some parts of our country. I have heard 'it in North Carolina where it is said of trees dead at the top, that they .re doted or have doted The word is also applied to lumber prepared from wood not exactly decayed but unso.nd to the extent of being not springy and tough enough The Columbia river phenomenon which L. and C. were the first white men to note IS well marked enough to I)e sometimes charted. Thus the Wilkes' man ot 1841 shows a place in the river legended " Rotten Pine Stumps " n r n .1 li .. 1 ■wm 9. m vj| 1 I 1 '\ 952 ASPECTS OF THE COLUMBIA. reasonable account which can be given of this phenomenon IS tliat at some period, which the appearance of the trees induces us to fix within 20 years, the rocks from the hillsides have obstructed the narrow pass at the rapids, and caused the river to spread through the woods. The mountains, which border as far as Sepulcher rock, are high and broken, and its romantic views occasionally enlivened by beautiful cascades rushing from the heights, forming a deep contrast with the firs, cedars, and nines which darken their sides. Frcm Sepulcher rock, where the low country die long- leaved pine is the almost exclusive growth < .xiber; but our present camp is the last spot where a single tree is to be seen on the wide plains, which are now spread before us to the foot of the Rocky [t. c, Bitter-root] mountains. It is however, covered with rich verdure of grass and herbs, some mches in height, which forms a delightful and exhilarating prospect, after being confined to the mountains and thick forests on the seacoast. The climate too, though we are only on the border of the plains, is here very different from that we have lately experienced. The air is drier and more pure, and the ground itself is as free from moisture as if there had been no rain for the last ten days. Around this place are many esculent plants used by the Indians ; among which is a currant, now in bloom, with a yellow blossom like that of the yellow currant of the Missouri, from which however, it differs specifically. There is also a species of hyacinth [Catnassm escidental growing in the plains, which presents at this time a pretty flower of a pale blue color, and the bulb of which is boiled, baked, dried in the sun, and eaten by the Indians. This bulb, of the present year, is white, flat in shape, and not quite solid ; it overlies and presses closely that of the last year, (/. 243) which, though much thinner and withered, is equally wide, and sends forth from its sides a number of small radicles. Our hunters obtained one of the long-tailed deer ICariacus virginianus macrurus'] with the young horns about two mches long, and [J. Fields] a large black or dark brown NATURAL HISTORY NOTES. 953 pheasant, such as we had seen on the upper part of the Mis- soun. They [R. Fields] also brought in a large gray squirrel \_Sciurus fossor\ and two others iSciurus sp?J resembling it in shape but smaller than the common gray squirrel of the United States, and of a pied gray and yellowish-brown color In addition to this game, they had seen some antelopes and the tracks of several black bears, but no appearance of elk. rhey had seen no birds, but [J. Fields] found three eggs of the party-colored corvus [common m^g^\^, Pica pica hud- sonica ]. Though the salmon has not yet appeared, we have seen less scarcity than we apprehended from the reports we had heard below. At the rapids the natives subsist chiefly on a few white salmon-trout which they take at this time and considerable quantities of a small indifferent mullet of an inferior quality. Beyond that place we see none except dried fish of the last season ; nor is the sturgeon caught by any of the natives above the Columbia, their whole stores consisting of roots and fish either dried or pounded. Captain Clark had, in the meantime, been endeavoring to purchase horses, without success ; but they promised to trade with him if he would go up to the Skilloot village, above the Long Narrows. He therefore sent over to us for more merchandise, and then accompanied them in the evening to that place, where he passed the night. The next day April 17th, he sent [Willard and Cruzatte] to inform us that he was still unable to purchase any horses, but intended going as far as the Eneeshur village to-day, whence he would return to meet us to-morrow at the Skilloot village. In the evening the principal chief of the Chilluckittequaws came to see us, accompanied by twelve of his nation, and hearing that we wanted horses, promised to meet us at the Narrows with some for sale. '» Clark Q 106-108, this date, has a long description. The bird is the dusky grouse, De,idragapus obscurus, probably of the variety fuliginosns Clark Q 108, this date, has a page of description of these three eggs of the [party-] coloured corvus." ^^ s\ i>>-':' in m M i Mt CHAPTER XXVIII. THE COLUMBIA FROM THE DALLES TO VVALLAWALLA RIVER. Tl,e I ong N..rrows-Sl= "•-'h °f 'he Kooskooske,.. -Dog-trade-Yellept presents a horse to Captain Clark-Chimnapoos-Sacajawea inter- na pooT The wirn'"' 7Z' "= ^^»"-^"— 'festivities with WallawaU.1 and Ch in^. raphv "^!h..^ h" %' " •""" noted-Blue Mountain range-Conjectural geog- raphy-Indu-ufishenes-Sequestrafon of menstruant females-Cruel riding of Indian horses -Ihe Expedmon takes the short overland route (along Touchet river)-!^ i": Swantalir"''"""' '"'='"' route-Touchet nvcr stiU pursued-Good character of ipRIDAY, April i8th, 1806.' We set out this morning ^ after an early breakfast, and crossing the river con tinued along the north side for four miles, to the foot of the first rapid. Here it was necessary to unload and make a portage of seven paces over a rock, round which we then drew the empty boats by means of a cord and the assistance of setting-poles. We then reloaded, and at the distance of five miles reached the basin at the foot of the Long Nar- rows. After unloading and arranging the camp we went up to the Skilloot village, where we found Captain Clark. He had not been able to procure more than four horses for which he was obliged to give double the price of those for- ' T/w Dalles of the Columlna.-^o phrase is more familiar than this in con- nection with the t^-reat river, but none has become so elastic, and its various anpli- cat.ons depnve it of a desirable precision. As a word, " dalles " is a French plural, the Lnghsh of which is flagstones, such as we lay down for a sidewalk alonfx a street. One may even hear of " those dalles." i. .., flat rocks in the river servL for steppins-stones. ' ' Dalles " are also the characteristic and celebrated colun.nar basaltic rock-formations tiuough which the river passes for many miles. " Dalles " 954 : THE LONG NARROWS OF THE DALLES. 955 merly purcluscd from the Shoshonecs and the first tribe of Flathcads [Ootlashoots : p. 582]. These, however, we hoped mi^dit be sufficient, with the aid of the small canoes, to convey our baggage as far as the villages near Muscles'hell rapid, where horses are cheaper and more abundant, and where we may probably exchange the canoes for as many horses as we want. The Skilloots have a (/. 245) number of horses, but they are unwilling to part with them, though at last wo laid out three parcels of merchandise, for each of which they promised to bring us a horse in the morning. The Long Narrows have a much more formidable appear- are likewise the course of the river through such formations, and the river itself (luring such courses, /. ,?., the river runs through " dalles," and is " dalles " in running through them. In this sense there are various " dalles " on the Colum- bia ; the Cascades are "dalles," etc. Finally, there is at one spot a town called "The Dalles," with a big T, or " Dalles City," with a big C, to make it look bigger than it ever was, even before its recent destruction by fire. But by com- mon geographical and engineering consent "the Dalles" has a technical sense which specifies one certain stretch of the river, including the "Great Falls," " Short Narrows," and " Long Narrows " of L. and C, with certain bad rocky places and ' ' rapids "—altogether a distance of about 14 miles. At the head of this reach is their " Great Falls." now called Celilo Falls ; and here is Celilo City, on the Oregon side. At the foot of this reach is their Fort Rock camp ; and here is (or was) Dalles City, on the Oregon side. At the " Great " or Celilo Falls the pitch is 47 feet at a low stage of the water. Aijout three miles below are the Ten Mile Rapids (so reckoned for distance from a point below), half a mile long, with a pitch at lov/ water of 7^ feet per mile, where the river runs through a trough formed by high vertical basaltic walls, about 200 feet apart. These are the "Short Narrows" of L. and C, also known as the ".Short Dalles," "Little Dalles," etc. Below here is a stretch of rapid water for some 1,800 feet, with a pitch of II feet per mile. Lower down are the Dalles Rapids, \%, miles long, with pitch of 10 feet per mile, where the river runs through another basaltic trough with vertical walls from 125 to 350 feet apart. Here are the " Long Narrows " of L. and C, also known as the " Long Dalles," " Great Dalles," ett\ The distance between the Dalles Rapids and Celilo Falls is about six miles. * The total descent of the river from Celilo City to Dalles City in low water is 81 >^ feet ; in mean high water, f)2>^ feet. The rise of surface from 1. w. to mean h. w. is at the head of Celilo F.ills l8 ft.; at head of Dalles Rapids, ^A ft.; at foot of do.. 49 ft., making navigation impossible. Transportation is effected on the Wash- ington side, r.-om a point below the foot of Dalles Rapids to a point above the head of Celilo Falls. Such, in brief, are the obstacles which the Expedition has now to surmount, with great difficulty and labor, though with less danger, than they were overcome \ w . 1 956 PORTAGE OF THE LONG NARROWS. 1' I t I A ancc than when we passed them in the autumn, so thit it would, in fact, be impossible either to descend or go up them m any kind of boat.^ As we had therefon. no ur her use for the two periogues, we cut them up for fuel. ^ Aj>n/ xc^th. Early in the morning all the party began to carry the merchandise over the portage. This we accom- ph-shed, with the aid of our four horses, by three o'clock in the afternoon when we formed our camp a little above the Skilloot village. Since we left them in the autumn they have removed heir village a few hundred yards lower down the river, and have exchanged the cellars, in which we then found them for more pleasant dwellings on the surface of the ground These are formed by sticks, covered with mats and straw, and so large that each is the residence of several families. Thev are also much better clad than any of the natives below, or than they were themselves last autumn. The dress of the in descending the river. (See back. pp. 658-668.) As stated in note 4, p 658 Clark s map of the Great Falls was engraved : see the plate. But it shouk be' partjcularly recorded here, that his equally good map of the Dalles covering the whole reach from Celilo (or Great) Falls to some distance beyond Dal esc'v (or Fort Rock camp) was never engraved. This continuously occupies ".' of Codex H on a scale of 426 poles to the inch : it is legended " A Skeich of the Long & Short Narrows of the Columbia River &c.'- The co.lex ha petdkd memorandum -Begin to engrave at words 'Great Falls.'" and there ^s another pencdmg where the engraver was to stop; the intention be g to take in the F, '•, ^"' r." I; '• " P- 3 "^^^ '^^ ••"•'-'-' P-'^ «f the dra Jfng vl sLc ™ '°^ r^'l ^"' '' '-'' ^"-"^^^'^"- '^^ •^'^^'^h was neve; X have been V v'L^fuTt ''T' '''V''' fj^^'^^ ^ ^-"^'^""^ executed, and w'ould .a;:;xGrS;^;;;r;^i-'rif;:::^r^trb^rv^"^°"^ graphic and hydrographic det.ls. it shows th: iXn'TillLg^l IhlVXTr? camps along this whole stretch of the Columbia. explorers JZT''^''^ ^^^^ ' ' ; P™''"^^'^ °" with great difficulty and danger to the foot of the long narrows; and expect to be able to take the canoes no ^^nher -Here we met one of the men from Captain Clarke with 4 horses. In coming up oTeo Z r " w" f ; '""•' " '''^^ '"' ""^ °''"S^^ ^° --y the load t'vo'mne to th.s place. Wood here ,s very scarce, as the Columbia plains have commenced Several men went up to the village with their buffalo robes, to disposTof them gL Hoo " ' ^" ^'' ^'"^ " '°"^^ -' ^""''^ ^^ ^ ^^ ^o ^o by an .^ b^ '^trasi^ SKILLOOT VILLAGE AT THE DALLES. 957 men consists generally of leggings, ,n. .:asu.s, and large robes ; many of them wear shirts in the form used by the Chopunnish and Shoshonees, highly ornamcot'«d, as well as the leggings and moccasins, with porcupine quills. Their modesty is protected by the skin of a fox or some other animal, drawn under a girdie and hanging in front like a narrow apron. The dress of the women differs but little from that worn near the rapids ; both sexes wear the hair over the forehead as low as the eyebrows, with large locks cut square at the ears, and the rest hanging in two cues in front of the body. The robes are made principally of the skins of deer, elk, bighorn, wolf, and buffalo, while the chil. dren use the skins of the large gray squirrel [Saurns /ossor]. The buffalo is procured from the nations higher up the river, who occasionally visit the Missouri ; indeed, the (/. 246) greater proportion of their apparel is brought by the nations to the northwest, who come to trade for pounded fish, cop- per, and beads. Their chief fuel is straw, southern-wood, and small willows. Bear-grass, the bark of the cedar, and silk-grass are employed in various articles of manufacture. The whole village was filled with rejoicing to-day at hav- ing caught a single salmon, which was considered as the harbinger of vast quantities in four or five days. In order to hasten their arrival the Indians, according to custom, dressed the fish and cut it into small pieces, one of which was given to each child in the village. In the good humor excited by this occurrence they parted, though reluctantly, with four other horses, for which we gave them two kettles, reserving only a single small one for a mess of eight men. Jnluckily, however, we lost one of the horses by the negligence of the person [Willard] to whose charge he was committed. The rest were, therefore, hobbled and tied ; but as the nations here do not understand gelding, all the horses but one were stallions ; this being the season when they are most vicious, we had great difficulty in managing them, and were obliged to keep watch over them all night. In the afternoon Captain Clark set out with four men for the Eneeshur village at the i-i if I If fH pf f' m : • 95« SKIM.OOT KNAVRRV AND TREACIIEUY. Grand Falls, in order to make further attempt, to procure A/>n/2ofA As it was obviously our interest to preserve the t. wh.ch they comnntted, but this morning we learnt that S.X tomahawks and a knife had been stolen during tlu- n.ght. We addressed ourselves to the chief, who seemed angry w.th h.s people, and made a harangue to them; but we d.d not recover the articles, and soon afterward two of our spoons were missing. VVe therefore ordered them all from our camp, threatening to beat severely anyone detected in purlommg. This harshness irritated them so much that they left us .n an ill-humor, and we therefore kept on our guard agamst any msult. Be- (p. .^7) sides this knavery, the faith- lessness of the people is intolerable; frequently, after receiv- ing goods m exchange for a horse, they return in a few hours ^ion.r'f °" uf^K "^ '^'' ^'•'^^"" °'" •■^^'^'^•"^^ -'"'^ addi- tional value. We discovered, too, that the horse which was m.ss.ng yesterday had been gambled away by the fellow from whom we had purchased him, to a man of a different nation who had carried him off. We bought two more horses, two dogs and some chapelell. and also e.xchanged a couple of elk-skms for a gun belonging to the chief. This was all we could obtain, for though they had a great abundance of dried fish, they would not sell it, except at a price too exorbitant for our finances. We now found that no more horses could be procured, and therefore prepared for setting out to-mor- row. One of the canoes, for which the Indians would give us very httle, was cut up for fuel ; two others, together with some elk-skms, and pieces of old iron, we bartered for beads I he remaming two small canoes were despatched early next mornmg, ^ April 2ist, with all the baggage which could not be car- and bhallates rcsule to the N.W. of these people, depend o„ 1 anting DeerTd Llk and trade wUh these people for their pounded Lh." See the locatL ^^ these four tribes on Clark's map of 1814. I i; ii3aS>. tiiri:ati:ni:i) chastisement of skili.oots. 959 ried on horseback. \Vc had intended settin^^ out at the same time, but one of our horses broke loose during the night, and we were under the necessity of sending several men in search of him. In the meantime the Indians, who were always on the alert, stole a tomahawk, which we could not recover, though several of them were searched. Another fellow was detected in carrying off a piece of iron, and kicked out of camp. Captain Lewis, tiicn addressing the Indians, declared that he was not afraid to fight them ; for if he chose, he might easily put them to death and burn their village ; that he did not wish to treat them ill if they did not steal ; and that though, if he knew who had the tomahawk, he would takeaway the horses of the thieves, yet he would rather lose the property altogether than take the horse of an innocent man. The chiefs who were present at this harangue hung their heads and made no reply.* At ten o'clock the (/.^.j?^) men [a man, Windsor] returned with the horse, and soon after an Indian, who had promised to go with us as far as * (Jass, p. 20I, notes the fracas thus : " Monday 2\st. . . While we were mak- ing preparations to start, an Indian stole some iron articles from among the men's hands, which so irritated Captain Lewis that he struck him ; which was the first act of the kind that had happened during the expedition. The Indians however did not resent it, otherwise it is probable we would have had a skirmish with them." "I detected a fellow in stealing an i.jn socket of a canoe pole and gave him several severe blows and m;uic the men kick him out of camp. 1 now informed the Indians that I would shoot the first of them that attempted to steal an article from us," Lewis K 73. It has always seemed to me there was some natural demoralizing agency at the Dalles and Cascades of the Columbia. Cer- tainly the tribes at these points were thievish and murderous from their first con- tact with white men, as recorded in these pages, till they were finally broken up in very late years. The difficulty of passing these points, where navigation was necessarily interrupted, was taken every advant.ige of by the wily savages, who infested these places as bandits ilo mountain passes, and pLayed on the Columbia the ])art of the Sioux on the Missouri — that of river-pirates. It seems to have been rather a local than a tribal matter — that is, no tribe could resist the temp- tation and opportunity th.it offered at the portages. Books of Columbian travel and adventure are full of such incidents, and much blood has been spilled in these places. Our heroes were more fortunate than many another party, as they only had to kick some of the Indians out of camp, with threats of more decisive action. T think the present is the only occasion on which either of the captains was forced to assault and battery. ^^.■'■'!^ ( jr: 1 ( i Ik ' 1 : H \ ■!! 960 PORTAGE OF THE GREAT FALLS. the Chopunnish, came with two horses, one of which he poHtely offered to carry our baggage. We therefore loaded nine horses, and giving the tenth to Bratton, who was still too sick to walk, about ten o'clock left the village of these disagreeable people. At one o'clock we arrived at the vil- lage of the Enecshurs, where we found Captain Clark, who had been completely unsuccessful in his attempt to pur- chase horses, the Eneeshurs being quite as unfriendly as the Skilloots. Fortunately, however, the fellow who had sold a horse and afterward lost him at gambling, belonged to this village, and we insisted on taking the kettle and knife which had been given to him for the horse, if he did not replace it by one of equal value. He preferred the latter [alternative], and brought us a very good horse. Being here joined by the canoes and baggage across the portage," we halted half a mile above the town, and took dinner on some dogs ; after which we proceeded on about four miles and camped at a village of Eneeshurs, consisting of nine mat huts, a little below the mouth of the Towahnahiooks." We obtained » The narrative hardly makes it plain enough that this is the portage of the Great Falls of the Columbia. Gass, p. 202 says : " Monday 21st . . . About 3 in the afternoon we arrived at the Great Falls of Columbia, where we met with Captain Clarke and the men that were with him. Here we got another horse ; carried our canoes and baggage round the falls and halted for dinner." We must also bear in mind that from this point the main party proceeds 6y land, along the north bank of the river, in Washington, though some men are still navigating two canoes which were hauled over the portage. * The Des Chutes river, a little above the Great Falls, in Oregon, the largest branch of the Columbia between the Multnomah or Willamette and the Snake. There is, of course, no real confusion between this and Lewis' river in Wash- ington ; but the ungainly Indian names of the two which Lewis and Clark use are so similar, and both are so variously spelled, that some forms of the names of each have in fact been misprinted or otherwise misused for the other. See Clark's map, 1814, where the Des Chutes (in Oregon) is inscribed To-war-na- he-ooks, and Lewis' (in Washington), Chah-wah-na-hi-ooks. Lewis K 74 has " Clark's river " for the Des Chutes, but with "Towanahiooks"interlined with red ink. See note », p. 657, and note ", p. 992. The name Des Chutes is of course a part of the French term riviere des chutes. Other forms from this are Shutes, Shute's and Shoots ; also. Falls river. Thus the U. S. Ex. Exp. map of 1841 marks " Falls or Shutes R." Stevens' map No. 3 charts it as Wanwauwie river, and gives the next creek above it, on the same (Oregon) side as Oonmauwie. KNAVISH ENEESHURS THREATENED. 961 from these people a couple of dogs and a small quan- tity of fuel, for which we were obliged to give a higher price than usual. We also bought a horse with his back so much injured that he can scarcely be of much serv'ce to us; but the price was some trifling article, which in the United States would cost about a dollar and a quarter. The dress, manners, and language of the Eneeshurs differ in no respect from those of the Skilloots. Like them, too, these Enee- shurs are inhospitable and parsimonious, faithless to their engagements, and in the midst of poverty and filth retain a degree of pride and arrogance which render our numbers our only protection against insult, pillage, and even murder. We are, however, assured by our Chopunnish guide, who appears to be a very sincere, honest Indian, that the nations above will treat us with much mor° hospitality. (a 249) Ap^il 22<^. Two of our horses broke loose in the night and straggled to some distance, so that we were not able to retake them and begin our march before seven o'clock. We had just reached the top of a hill near the vil- lage, when the load of one of the horses [" Charbono's"] turned, and the animal taking fright at a robe which still adhered to him, ran furiously toward the village; just as he came there the robe fell, and an Indian hid it in his hut. Two men went back after the horse, which they soon took ; but the robe was still missing, and the Indians denied having seen it.' These repeated acts of knavery now exhausted our patience. Captain Lewis therefore set out for the village, determined to make them deliver up the robe or to burn the village to the gr-'und. This disagree- able alternative was rendered unnecessary, for on his way he met one of our men [Labiche], who had found the robe in an Indian hut hid behind some baggage. ' " Being now confident that the indians had taken it I sent the Indian woman [Sacajawea] on to request Capt. C. to halt the party and send back some of the men to my assistance being deturmined either to make the indians deliver the robe or birn their houses, they have vexed me in such a manner by such repeated acts of villany that I am quite disposed to treat them with every severyty, their defenseless state pleads forgivness so far as rispects their lives," Lewis K 75. I I I 'l •li 'i\ 1 'J- fchj V 1 jf. r i" i ^i 962 RIVERS AND MOUNTAINS IN TROSPECT. We resumed our route and soon after halted at a hill, from the top of which we enjoyed a commanding view of the range of mountains in which Mount Hood stands, and which continue south as far as the eye can reach, with their tops covered with snow. Mount Hood itself bears S. 30° W., and the snowy summit of Mount Jefferson S. 10° W. Toward the south and at no great distance we discern some woody country, and opposite this point of view is the mouth of the Towahnahiooks. This river receives, at the distance of 18 or 20 miles, a branch from the right," which takes its rise in Mount Hood, while the main stream comes in a course from the southeast, and 10 or 15 miles ° is joined by a second branch, from Mount Jefferson. From this place we pro- ceeded with our baggage in the center, escorted both before and behind by those of the men who were without the care of horses- and having crossed a plain eight miles in extent, reached a village of Eneeshurs, consisting of six houses. Here we bought some dogs on which we dined near the vil- lage, and having purchased another horse, went up the river four miles f urtlier, to another Eneeshur village of seven mat- * That is, from the observer's point of view, facing the mouth of the river. The stream from Mt. Hood flows eastwartlly, into the west (left) side of the Des Chutes. Clark charts it as " Skimhoox R." The main stream from Mt. Hood to the Des Chutes is now called White river, two tributaries of which, Ty^h (Tyigh, Tyee, Tysch, etc.) and Hadger creeks, seem to correspond best with the forked stream on Clark's map. The "point of view " of the text is probably at the place marked " High Rocks," on Wilkes' 1841 map, and I should imagine the tributaries of the Des Chutes river which the text indicates could be settled by determining what streams can be sighted from this spot. Lewis K 76 again calls the Des Chutes " Clark's " river, but the codex has " Towarnahiooks " red- inked in. On this unlucky slip, see note«, p. n/ 2\tli. We began early to look for our horses, but they were not collected before one o'clock. In the mean- time we prepared saddles for three new horses which we purchased from the Wahhowpums, and agreed to hire three more from the Chopunnish Indian, who was to accompany us with his family. The natives also had promised to take our canoes in exchange for horses ; but when they found that we were resolved on traveling by land they refused giv- ing us anything, in hopes that we would be forced to leave them. Disgusted at this conduct, we determined rather to cut them to pieces than suffer these people to enjoy them, and actually began to split them, on which they gave us sev' eral strands of beads for each canoe. We had now a suffi- cient number of horses to carry our baggage, and therefore proceeded wholly by land." At two o'clock we set out, and pass- {p. 252) ing between the hills and the northern shore of the river, had a difficult and fatiguing march over a road alternately sandy and rocky. At the distance of four miles we came to four huts of the Metcowwee " tribe, two miles further the same number of huts, and after making twelve miles from our last night's camp halted '^at a larger village of five huts of Metcowwees. " Gass, p. 203, thus notes the end of the navigation of the Columbia' " We sold ourtwo small canoes; . . . at 2 o'clock we all started by land on the north side of the river . . we entered the low country, the great and beautiful plains of Columbia. The Wahowpums he calls " Wal-h-waltz " and " Wal-a-waltz " Or Meteowwee ; preferably Mefhow. This was a Salishan tribe The mileage assigned (12 m. from Rock creek camp) should bring the Ex- pedition about opposite present site of Arlington, above Chambers' creek (un- I ; '•i 1 f J f' m \ A J 1 ^li: 1 li fi ' if i ' 'i i f : I 966 METCOWWEES AND riSHOUITPAirS. As wc came along many of the natives passed and repassed without making any advances to converse, though tliey be- haved with distant respect. We observed in our route no animals except the killdeer l/Egialitcs vocifcrus\, the brown hzard ISccloporus sp.J.and a moonax [_Arctomysflavivcntcr], whicii the people had domesticated as a favorite. Most of the men complain of a soreness in their feet and legs, occa- sioned by walking on rough stones and deep sands after being accustomed for some months past to a soft soil. We therefore determined to remain here this evening, and for this purpose bouglit three dogs and some chapelell, which we cooked with dry grass and willow boughs. The want of wood is a serious inconvenience, on account of the coolness of the nights, particularly when the wind sets from Mount Hood, or in any western direction ; those winds being much colder than the winds from the Rocky mountains. There are no dews on the plains, and from appearances we presume that no rain has fallen for several weeks. By nine o'clock the following morning, April 25///, we collected our horses and proceeded 11 miles to a large village of 51 mat houses, where we pur- chased some wood and a few dogs, on which we made our dinner. The village contained about 700 persons of a tribe called Pishquitpah,'" whose residence on the river is only during the spring and summer, the autumn and winter being passed in hunting through the plains and along the borders of the mountains. The greater part of them were at a dis- tance from the river as we descended, and never having seen white men before, they flocked round us in great numbers ; but though they were exceedingly curious {p. 253) they treated us with great respect, and were very urgent that we should spend the night with them. Two principal chiefs were pointed out by our Chopunnish companion, and acknowledged by the tribe : we therefore invested each of noticed), and a little below Wcxl creek (Tine creek of Svmons • see note '« n 652). ' ' '■ '" Or Pisquow, a Salishan tribe also ; " 2,600 souls " charted by Clark. PISHQUITPAHS AND VVALLAWALLAS. 967 \6 them with a small medal. We were also very desirous of purchasing more horses; but as our principal stock of mer- chandise consists of a dirk, a sword, and a few old clothes, the Indians could not he induced to traffic with us. The Pishquitpahs are generally of good stature and proportion, and as the heads of neither males nor females are so much flattened as those lower down the river, their features are rather pleasant. The hair is braided in the manner prac- ticed by their western neighbors ; the generality of the men are dressed in a large robe, under which is a shirt reaching to the knees, where it is met by long leggings, and the feet are covered with moccasins ; others, however, wear only the truss and robe. As they unite the occupations of hunting and fishing, both sexes ride very dexterously, their caparison being a saddle or pad of dressed skin, stuffed with goat's hair, and from which wooden stirrups are suspended ; and a hair rope tied at both ends to the under jaw of the animal. The horses, though good, suffer much, as do in fact all Indian horses, from sore backs. Finding them not disposed to barter with us, we left the Pishquitpahs at four o'clock, accompanied by 18 or 20 of their young men on horseback. At the distance of four miles, we passed, without halting, five houses belonging to the Wollawollahs LWallawallas] ; and five miles further, observing as many willows as would answer the purpose of making fires, availed ourselves of the circumstance by camp- ing " near them. The country through which we passed bore "A good early start to-day, without any trouble in catching their opinionative and vagarious Indian ponies, and a good stretch of 20 miles. Passed Wood creek (Pine creek of Symons) at once, then camp of Oct. 20th (see the date, p. 652, note there), then Pine creek (Olive creek of Symons); all these on the N. side. Next is Willow creek, as might be expected from mention of this tree or bush in the text. This is a considerable stream on the south, but passed unnoticed both ways, unless it be indicated in the text of p. 652, as I there observe. It was certainly not altogether missed, for this is one of two streams in Oregon, which Clark charts without name, between " R. La Page," and " You-ma-lolam R.," i.e., between the John Day and Yumatilla. Willow creek is also called Ilokes- pam on Stevens' map No. 3, and is Quesnell's river of Wilkes' map, 184'. Next beyond Willow creek is Cedar creek; somewhat beyond which, and some- 968 APPROACHING YUMATILLA RIVER. I •li f ^ the same appearance as that of yesterday. The hills on both sides of the river are about 250 feet high, generally abrupt and craggy, and in many places presenting a perpendicular face of black, hard, and solid rock. From the top of these hills, (/. 2J4) the country extends in level plains to a very great distance, and though not as fertile as the land near the falls, produces an abundant supply of low grass, which is an excellent food for horses. This grass must indeed be unusually nutritious; for even at this season of the year, after wintering on the dry grass of the plains, and being used with greater severity than is usual among the whites, many of these horses are perfectly fat, nor have we, indeed, seen a single one which was poor. In the course of the day we killed several rattlesnakes," like those of the United States, and saw many of the common as well as the horned lizard." We also killed six ducks, one of which proved to be of a dif- ferent species" from any we had yet seen, being distinguished by yellow legs, and feet webbed like those of the duckinmal- lard [sic— Anas boseas\ The Pishquitpahs passed the night with us ; at their request the violin was played, and some of what short of the place on the Oregon side called Castle Rock, camp is pitched. The proportion of 20 m. to-day, and 28 m. to-morrow, which brings the Expe- dition almost to Yumatilla, fixes this camp very closely ; and the estimated dis- tances agree remarkably well with reliable modern measurement. This is spe- cially satisfactory along a reach of the river which the text passes so cursorily. '8 There are two distinct species of rattlesnakes along the Columbia. The one most like the common Crotalus korridus, " of the United States," is C. liici/croi Baird and Girard, Serps. N. A. 1853, p. C (orig. descr. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sci. Phila. VI. 1852, p. 177), and doubtless the one here in mention. The other is Say's C. confluentus, of very wide distribution in the West. See p. 898. '9 Phrynosoma douglasi, commonly called horned frog or horned toad, though the designation of Lewis and Clark is much better, as the animals are lizards and neither frogs nor toads : see pp. 899, loig, for description. The " common " lizard was doubtless a species of Sceloporus : see pp. 899, 900. "> This is the shoveler duck, S/>ciiu/a clypeata. Clark Q no has, at this date : " The Curloos are abundant in the Plains and are now laying their eggs. Saw the Kilde [^gialites vociferiis\ the brown Lizzard [Sceloporusi^^,.'] and a moonac which the natives had petted." This word " moonac," on p. 564 " moonax," is a name of the woodchuck or ground-hog in Virginia, reflected in the specific name of Arctomys monax ; and the animal intended to be designated by Clark is doubtless the yellow-bellied marmot, Arctomys Jlavivcntcr. CAMP OPPOSITE THE YUMATILLA. 969 the men amused themselves with dancing. At the same time we bu-.oeded in obtaining two horses at nearly the same prices which had already been refused in the village. April 26th. We set out early [along the north bank of the river]. At the distance of three miles the river hills become low, and retiring to a great distance leave a low, level, exten- si>'^ plain, which on the other side of the river began 13 miles lower. As we were crossing this plain, we were over- taken by several families traveling up the river with a num. ber of horses ; though their company was inconvenient, for the weather was warm, the roads were dusty, and their horses crowded in and broke our line of march, yet we were unwilling to displease the Indians by any act of severity. The plain possesses much grass and a variety of herbaceous plants and shrubs; but after going twelve miles we were fortunate enough to find a few willows, which enabled us to cook a dinner of jerked elk and the remainder of the dogs purchased yesterday. We then went on 16 miles further, and six miles above our camp of the 19th of October (/. 255) camped " in the rain, about a mile below three houses of Wollawollahs." Soon after we halted an Indian boy took a " This camp is immediately below the mouth of the Yumatilla river, but on the Washington side. The statement in reference to the camp of Oct. 19th does good service in fixing the latter, which was left somewhat uncertain in going down river (see p. 649, and note there). Some of the points passed to-day are : Castle Rock ; Canoe Encampment rapids ; Long island, whose foot is 14 miles above the mouth of Willow creek ; opposite this island, a place called Coyote, on the Oregon side ; and on the Washington side, a considerable creek, which, when it runs, drains some country curiously called Horse Heaven ; town of Scott, at mouth of a small creek on the Washington side ; then Gmnde Ron. J Landing, 13 m. above above the foot of Long island; and finally Devil's Bend, 4 m. below Yumatilla river, where are rapids of the same name. "■'' Here Lewis K 82 has Wollah Wolldhs ; Clark Q 112 has Wallow Wallows • map has Wollaw Wollah ; Clark elsewhere Woller Woller. As ea, lier observed in this work, the codices vary greatly in this slippery word, more than 20 forms of which are also found in print. Accepted forms are now Walla Walla, or Walla-walla, or Wallawalla. In several languages 7valla means running water, and reduplication of a word diminutizes it ; so Wallawalla is the small rapid river. (Compare Koos-koos-kee, note", p. 1002.) For these Indians, see note '8, p. 605. 1-^ i ! k t '! 'ir w 111 i 970 HETVVEEN YUMATILLA AND WALLAVVALLA RIVERS. piece of bone, which he substituted for a fish-hook, and caught several chub" nine inches loi.;-.. Sunday, April 27th. We were deiained till nine o'clock, before a horse [" Charbono's " again] which broke loose in the night could be recovered. We then passed, near our camp, a small river called Youmalolam" and proceeded thiough a continuation," till at the distance of 15 miles the abrupt and rocky hills, 300 feet high, return to the river. These we ascended and then crossed a higher plain for nine miles, when we again came to the water-side. We had been induced to make this long march because we had but little provision, and hoped to find a WoUawolIah village, which our guide had told us we should reach when next we met the river. There was, however, no village to be seen; and as both men and horses were fatigued, we halted, and col- lecting some dry stalks of weeds and the stems of a plant resembling southern-wood, cooked a small quantity of jerked meat for dinner. Soon after we were joined by seven Wollawollahs, among whom we recognized a chief by the name of Yellept," who had visited us on the 19th of Octo- bcr, when we gave him a medal with the promise of a larger one on our return. He appeared very much pleased at see- ^^Mylochihts caurinus: description, Lewis K 83 and Clark Q in, given at this date, with a sketch of the ajiparatus with which the boy took the fish. " Emptying into the Cohunbia from the south, in county of the same name ; now usually rendered Yumatilla or Umatilla ; on Clark's map as in the text, but hyphenated. A dozen different spellings have had currency, as Umatella, Uma- talla, Umatallow, Youmatalla, Yourmatalla, Umatillah, Umatilah, Emmitilly, etc., and without labialization Euatallah, Utalla, Utilla, etc. It is the first coni si.ierable stream in Oregon below the Wallawalla, and the second such ajjove the John Day. At its mouth is town of same name, and opposite is Crimea, Klikitat Co., Wash. Its main western fork is Bitter creek, a name - ...etimes extended to the vhole river, and given as "Butter" on the G. L. O. map of 1879, and on that of Symons, 1881. Certain Astorians who had survived their horrible experiences in the Snake river region stn-ck the Columbia here, and were the first white men on the spot after L. and C. There is a local tradition that some of them were also at Lewiston next after our e ilorers. '• /.<•., a country like that of yesterday, Lewis K 84. " Accent Yel-lept' Yelleppit of p. 645 ; his medal found last year on an island about mouth of Wallawalla river (James Wickesham, in lit.) AMONG THE WALLA WALLAS. 971 iiig us again, and invited us to remain at his villago three or four days, during which he would supply us with the only food they had, and furnish us with horses for our jour- ney. After the cold, inhospitable treatment we have lately received, this kind offer was peculiarly acceptable ; and after a hasty meal we accompanied him to his village, six miles above, situated on the edge of the low country, about twelve miles below the mouth of Lewis' river." Immediately on our arrival Yellept, who proved to be a man of much influence, not only in his own but in the neighboring nations, collected the inhabitants, and having made a harangue, the purport of which was to induce the nations to (/. 2j6) treat us hospitably, he set them an example by bringing himseh an armful of wood, and a plat- ter containing three roasted mullets. They immediately assented to one part, at least, of the recommendation, by furnishing us with an abundance of the only sort of fuel they employ, the stems of shrubs growing in the plains. We then purchased four dogs, on which we supped heartily, having been on short allowance for two days past. When we were disposed to sleep, the Indians retired immediately on our request, and indeed, uniformly conducted themselves with great propriety. These people live on roots, which are vi.-ry abundant in the plains, and catrh a few salmon-trout ; but at present they seem to subsist chiefly on a species of mullet, weighing from one to three pounds. They informed us that opposite the village there was a route which led to the mouth of the Kooskooskee, on the south side of Lewis' river-" II :"lj ■ *■ " Yakima Co., Wash., nearly or exactly opposite mouth of Wallawalla river, on N. side of which latter was t>/ Oregon, and that hence eastward the boundary runs ahm- the parallel of 46° N. thus leaving the ma.n course of the Wallawalla, as well as ihe route of the Expedition, in ^^ ash.ntjton. 1 he route is thus entirely south of the .S„ake, and j;oes eastwanl (ma.nly alont; Pouchet river) via Dayton, Columbia Co., W.ash., to I.ewiston Ne.-per.-e Co.. Idaho. In Washinsto,, they will traverse Wallawalla, Columbia' and C.arheld counties, and touch the northern border of Asotin Co THKKAI'KUTICS AI'I'I.IKI) TO WAI.LAWALLAS. 973 the Chimnapoos," to come down this tvcnin^r and join his people in a dance for our amusement. We urged in vain that, by setting „ut sooner, we would tlie earlier return with the articles they desired ; for a day, he observed, would make but little difference. VVe at length mentioned that, as there was no wind, it was now the best time to cross the river, and we would merely take the horses over and return to sleep at their village. To this he assented ; we then crossed with our horses, and liaving hobbled them, returned to their [the Indians'] camp. Fortunately, there was among these Wollawollahs a pris- oner belonging to a tribe of Shoshonee or Snake Indians, residing to the south of the Multnomah and visiting occasion- ally the heads of VVollawollah creek. Our Shoshonee woman, Sacajawea, though she belonged to a tribe near the Missouri, spoke the same language as this prisoner; by their means we were able to explain ourselves to the Indians, and answer all their inquiries with respect to ourselves and the object of our journey. Our conversation inspired them with much confidence, and they soon brought several sick persons, for whom they requested our assistance. We splintered [Cap- tain Clark splinted] the broken arm of one, gave some relief to another, whose knee was contracted by rheumatism, and administered what we thought beneficial for ulcers and erup- tions of the skin on various parts of the body, which are very common disorders among them. But our most valuable medicine was eye-water, which we distributed, and which indeed, they required very much ; the complaint of the "See note '» p. 637. and p. 643. Lewis K 85 has Chym-nah'-pos. Clark's map charts Chim nah pun 2000 Souls" on the Tapetete (Vakima) river and two of ,ts hnnnches called Nock-tock and Se-lar-t.ar. next below the Wah-na- 3-cha Ihe latter is the Wenatchee, Wainape, or Wenatsh.apam river, also called ,ss-cows. I'.scous. I'ischous. Fisquouse, etc. Some names of the Yakima wh.ch I nef,dccten7 2gt/i. Yellept supplied us with two canoes, in which we crossed [the Columbia from west to east] with all our baggage, by eleven o'clock ; but the horses having strayed to some distance, we could not collect them in time to reach any fit place to camp if we began our journey, as night would overtake us before we came to water. We therefore thought it advisable to camp about a mile from the Columbia, on the mouth '" of the Wollawollah river. This is a handsome 8» Having passed from Yakima to Wallawalla Co. in crossing the Columbia to site of Wallula and old Fort Wallawalla, which was established at the mouth of the river of the same name in i8i8, and was also called Fort Nez-percd. It is thus a very old post-among the very earliest fur-trac^ing establishments i;fter Astoria and that myrionymous place which David Stuart founded in i8ii, called by L and C. Otchenaukane. by Ross Coxe, Oakinacken, Oakanazan, Oakinagan and Oakanagan ; by others, Okunoakan, Okcnakan. Okanagan, Okina-an' Okonagan, Okinikaine, Okinakane, Okenagen, Oknagen, Oknagan, and doubt- less in other ways, which have not come under iry observation. Captain Bonne- ville was at Wallawalla in 1333-34, Townsend and Nuttall In Sept., 1834, with the ii CONJECTURAL GEOGRAPHY. 975 Stream, about 50 yards wide and 4% feet in depth ; its waters, which are clear, roll over a bed composed principally of gravel mixed with sand and mud, and though the banks are low they do not seem to be overflowed. It empties into the Columbia 12 or 15 miles from the entrance of Lewis' [Snake] river, just above a range of high hills crossing the Columbia. Its sources, like those of the Towahnahiooks, Lapage. You- malolam, and Wollawollah," come, as the Indians inform us, from the north side of a range of mountains [the Blue moun- tains] which (/. 2S9) we see to the east and southeast, and which, commencing to the south of Mount Hood, stretch in a northeastern direction to the neighborhood of a southern branch of Lewis' river," at some distance from the Rocky mountains. Two principal branches, however, of the Tow- ahnahiooks ""Des Chutes] take their rise [ 'spectively] in Mount Jefferson and Mount Hood, which, in fact, appear to separate the waters of the Multnomah and the Columbia.^' They [the Blue mountains], are 65 or 70 miles from this place, and, though covered with snow, do not seem high. Wyeth expedition, and J. C. Fremont in 1843. It is supposed to be 325 miles up the Columbia from the sea. It stands on the southern border of a large irregu- lar depression in which the Yakima and the Snake meet the Columbia, supposed to have been the bed of a prehistoric body of water called by Symons " Ancient Lake Lewis." New Fort Wallawalla is some 30 miles eastward, on one of the branches of Wallawalla river ; and there is also the county seat, Wallawalla, the chief city of the "Valley of many Waters," pop. about 8,000. The people generally make the most of the name by writing it as two words. It was first settled in 1856, after the Indian massacre of whites at the old Waiilatpu mission m this place, Nov., 1847 ; the site was selected for the county seat and lots were laid out in 1859 ; the city was chartered by act of territorial legislature Jan. nth, 1862. The altitude of the place is given as 978 feet. The U. P. R. R., and the Washington and Columbia R. R. go through the city. ^' Thus naming in order the Des Chutes, John Day, Yumatilla, and Wallawalla the four principal aflluents of the Columbia, on the Oregon side, east of the Cas- cade range and west of Snake river. Put the text is so pointed that I could not make it read as intended without recasting. It obviously means that the sources of the Wallawalla, like tliose of the other three rivers named, come, etc. ="' This " southern branch of Lewis' river " is, in fact, the main Snake river, marked on Clark's map as the " South Fori, of Lewis's R." See note ", p. 621'. »' That is, the Cascade range of mountains, of which Mts. Hood and Jefferson are conspicuous jieaks, divides off the Multnomah watershed, between the Cas- '% ;i' !•■ 1 :il tu I 'W' n :' 976 STILL IN CAMP ON THE WALLAWALLA. To the south of these mountains the Indian prisoner says there is a river [i. e., the Multnomah], running toward the northwest, as large as the Columbia at this place, which is nearly a mile. This account may be exaggerated : but it serves to show that the Multnomah must be a very large river, and that with the assistance of a southeastern branch of Lewis river, passing round the eastern extremity of that chain of mountains in which Mounts Hood and Jefferson are so conspicuous, waters the vast tract of country to the south p ?,T°f 3!°"'^^' approach those of the Missouri and K.10 del Norde. Near our camp is a fish-weir, formed of two curtains of small willow-switches, matted together with wythes [withesl of the same plant, and extending across the river in two parallel lines six feet asunder. These are supported by sev- eral parcels of poles, in the manner already described as in use among the Shoshonees, and are either rolled up or let down at pleasure for a few feet, so as either to suffer the fish to pass or detain them. A seine of 15 or 18 feet in length IS then dragged down the river by two persons, and the bot- tom draxvn up against the curtain of willows. They also employ a smaller seine, like a scooping-net, one side of which IS confined to a semicircular bow five feet long, and half the size of a man's arm, and the other side is held by a strong rope, which, being tied at both ends to the bow, forms the chord to the semicircle. This is used by one person, but the only fish which they can take at this time is a mullet, [prob- ably Ptychochilus orcgonensis-] from four to five pounds in weight; this is the chief subsist- (/. 260) ence of a village of twelve houses of Wollawollahs, a little below us on this river as well as of others on the opposite side of the Columbia In the course of the day we gave small medals to two cade and Coast ranges, from the southern watershed of the Coh.mbia east of the cascade range. The sentence is parenthetical, interrupting the mention of the iilue mountains. o„r-^ TT-T" '"? '""''"'' ^'"^ ''' ""^''"'' punctuation, which leaves it ambigu- ous, but It IS all conjecture from Indian information, and hardly worth The attention necessary for its rectification. See any modern map of Oregon .t CHARACTERISTICS OF THE WALLAWALLAS. 977 inferior chiefs, each of whom made us a present of a fine horse. We were in a poor condition to make an adequate acknowledgment for this kindness, but gave several articles, among which was a pistol, with some hundred rounds of ammunition. We have, indeed, been treated by these people with an unusual degree of kindness and civility. They seem to have been successful in their hunting during the last win- ter; for all of them, but particularly the women, are much better clad than when we saw them last ; both sexes among the Wollawollahs, as well as the Chimnapoos, being provided with good robes, moccasins, long shirts, and leggings. Their ornaments are similar to those used below ; the hair is cut on the forehead, and cues fall over the shoulders in front of the body ; some have some small plaits at the ear-locks, and others tie a bundle of the docked foretop in front of the forehead. They were anxious that we should repeat our dance of last evening; but as it rained and the wind was high, we found the weather too cold for such amusement. April iQ^h. Although we had hobbled and secured our new purchases, we found some difficulty in collecting all our horses. In the meantime we purchased several dogs and two horses, besides exchanging one of our least valuable horses for a very good one belonging to the Chopunnish who is accompanying us with his family. The daughter of this man is now about the age of puberty; being incom- moded by the disorder incident to that age, she is not per- mitted to associate with the family, but sleeps at a distance from her father's camp, and on the route always follows at some distance alone. This delicacy or affectation is common to many nations of Indians, among whom a girl in that state is separated from her family, and forbidden to use any article of the household or kitchen furniture, or to engage in any oc- {p. 261) cupation. We have now 23 horses, many of which are young and excellent animals, but the greater part of them are afflicted with sore backs. The Indians in gen- eral are cruel masters ; they ride very hard, and the saddles are so badly constructed that it is almost impossible to ii f fc 1 m 978 FROM WALLA WALLA TO TOUCHET RIVER. 1 ^ j avoid wounding the back ; yet they continue to ride when the poor creatures are scarified in a dreadful manner. At eleven o'clock we left these honest, worthy people, accompanied by our guide and the Chopunnish family, and directed our course N. 30^ E., across an open, level, sandy plain, unbroken except by large banks of pure sand, which have drifted in many parts of the plain to the height of 15 or 20 feet. The rest of the plain is poor in point of soil, but generally supports short grass interspersed with arornatic shrubs and a number of plants, the roots of which supply the chief sustenance of the natives. Among these we ob- serve a root something like the sweet potato. At the dis- tance of 14 miles we reached a] branch" of Wollawollah river, rising in the same [Blue] range of mountains and emptying six miles above the mouth of the latter [river]. It is a bold, deep stream, about ten yards wide, and seems to be navigable for canoes. The hills of this creek are gener- ally abrupt and rocky, but the narrow bottom is very fertile, and both possess 20 times as much timber as the Colum- bia itself; indeed, we now find, for the first time since leav- 'A- S li Ii»- "^ That is, Touchet river, the largest affluent of the Wallawalla, falling in from the N.E., with Touchet, Wallawalla Co., at its mouth, and Dayton, county town of Columbia Co., at its main forks. The overland route in Wash- ington, upon which Expedition has now entered, is not marked in any way on Clark's map of 1814, and has been little considered by the commentators. But the Tonchet is there clearly charted, unnamed, being that stream which is represented is a branch of the " Wollawollah." and as itself having the two branches lette ed " Wh[ite] : Stallion R." and "Gambler's R." This overland course of the Expedition may be taken in at a glance, if the reader will look at Stevens' large map, 1853-55, where the continuous dotted lines, " Route of Mr. Tinkham in December, 1853," and "Governor Stevens in 1855," might almost be taken for Lewis and Clark's own foot-prints. It is also easily picked out among the wagon-roads dotted on the milit. map, Dcpt. Columl)ia (4th ed., 1892, Symons). C./ an ordinary school atlas of Washington, a ruler laid on Wallula, Wash., and Lewiston, Idaho, would give the air-line of this route. See also P. R. R. Reps. XII. pt. i., i860, and compare the narrative of Governor Stevens, beginning on p. 196. Under date of June 19th, 1855, Governor Stevens says (p. 198): "I have sometimes thought, while travelling, as I have to-day, over the route of Lewis and Clark, that it was a work of supererogation to do anything more than simply to quote their narrative." ROUTE ALONG TOUCHET RIVER. 979 ing Rock fort [at Dalles], an abundance of firewood. The growth consists of Cottonwood, birch, crimson haw, red and sweet willow, choke-cherry, yellow currants, gooseberry, the honeysuckle with a white berry, rosebushes, seven-bark, and sumac, together with some corn-grass and rushes. The advantage of a comfortable fire induced us, as the night was come, to halt at this place. We were soon supplied by Drev/yer with a beaver and an otter, of which we took only a part of the beaver, and gave the rest to the Indians. The otter is a favorite food, though much inferior, at least in our estimation, to the dog, which they will not eat. The horse is seldom eaten, and never {p. 262) except when absolute necessity compels them, as the only alternative to dying of hunger. This fastidiousness does not. however, seem to proceed so much from any dislike to the food, as from attachment to the animal itself ; for many of them eat very heartily of the horse-beef which we give them. Thursday, May \st, 1806. At an early hour in the morn- ing we collected our horses, and after breakfast set out about seven o'clock and followed the road up the creek [Touchet river]. The low grounds and plains presented the same appearance as that of yesterday, except that the latter were less sandy. At the distance of nine miles the Chopun- nish Indian, who was in front, pointed out an old unbeaten road to the left, which he informed us was our shortest route. Before venturing, ho vever, to quit our present road, which was level, and not only led us in the proper direction^ but was well supplied with wood and water, we halted to let our horses graze till the arrival of our other guide, who hap- pened to be at some distance behind. On coming up he seemed much displeased with the other Indian, and declared that the road we were pursuing was the proper one ; that if we decided on taking the left road, it would be necessary to remain till to-morrow morning, and then make an entire day's march before we could reach either water or wood. To this the Chopunnish assented, but declared that he himself meant to pursue that route ; we therefore gave him some \ ■' !. ifr 980 CAMP BETWEEN PRESCOTT AND WAITESUURG. powder and lead which he requested. Four hunters whom we had sent out in the morning joined us while we halted and brought us a beaver for dinner. We then took our leave of the Chopunnish at one o'clock and pursued our route up the creek, through a country simil ar to that we had passed in the morning. But at the dis- tance of three miles the hills on the north side became lower and the bottoms of the creek widened into a pleasant country, two or three miles in extent. The timber is now more abundant, and our guide tells us that we shall not want either wood or game from this place as far {p. 263) as the Kooskooskee. We have already seen a number of deer, of which we killed one, and observed great quantities of curlew as well as some cranes, ducks, prairie larks, and several spe^ cies of sparrows corainon to the prairies. There is in fact very little difference in the general face of the country here' from that of the plains ot^ the Missouri, except that the lat- ter are enlivened by vast herds of buffalo, elk, and other animals, which give them an additional interest. Over these wide bottoms we continued on a course N. 75° E till at the distance of r; miles from where we dined, and 26 f^om our last camp, we halted for the night '° We had scarcely camped when three young men came up from the Wollawollah village, with a steel trap, which had been left behind inadvertently, and which they had come a whole day s journey in order to restore. This act of integ- rity was the more pleasing because, though very rare among n? /r'w T^T:^^" P'''^''^''^' ''''^ "^^ g^^-^^-i behavior of the Wollawollahs, among whom we had lost carelessly several knives, which were returned as soon as found. We may, mdeed, justly affirm that, of all the Indians whom we have met since leaving the United States, the Wollawollahs are the most hospitable, honest, and sincere. CHAPTER XXIX. OVERLAND EAST OF THE COLUMBIA AND ALONG THE KOOSKOOSKEE TO COMMEARP CREEK. The Expedition continues overland toward the Kooskooskee along the Touchet river with the Wallawalla guides— Character of the country— Cainass in bloom— An esculent umbelli- ferous plant— Kimooenim creek— Sudden appearance of Bighorn, a Chopunnish chief and old friend, who joins the party— Bad weather— A creek which falls into Lewis' river- Southwest mountains— Halt at a Chopunnish village— Advice of old guides to ascend the Kooskooskee on the north side— 1 his route to be adopted— Sequestration of Chopunnish menstruants— The party reaches t e Kooskooskee and proceeds up that river— Captain Clark receives a gray mare for a L ale of eye-wash— His reputation as a medicine-man grows, and is turned to account— In iian impudence— Old Chopunnish guide found again— Colter's creek— Cut-nose, a Chopunnish chief— Further practice of medicine— Indian prejudices removed— Skeetsomish Indians— Out of provisions— Colter's creek— The party crosses the Kooskooskee to its south side— Joined by Cut-nose and a Shoshonee— Snow- capped mountains in prospect— Hunters bring in game— Indian map-making- Chief Twisted-hair— Quarrel between Cut-nose and Twisted-hair— Other Indian rivalries and jealousies— Chief Broken-arm— Horses and saddles left last autumn recovered— Camp on Commearp creek at Broken-arm's house— Hospitality of the Indians— Chief Hohastilpilp— Council with the four principal Chopunnish chiefs through five different languages— Its happy result promoted by the practice of medicine— Satisfactory state of Indian affairs. JpRIDAY, May 2d, 1806. We despatched two hunters *!l ahead ; but the horse we had yesterday purchased from the Chopunnish, though closely hobbled, contrived to break loose in the night, and went back to rejoin his companions. He was overtaken and brought to us about one o'clock, when we set forward. For three miles we followed a hilly road on the north side of the [Touchet] creek, opposite a wide bot- tom, where a branch ' falls in from the southwest mountains, which, though covered with snow, are about 25 miles distant, and do not appear high. Wc then entered an extensive level bottom, with about 50 acres of land, well covered with pine near the creek, and with the long-leaved pine {p. 265) occa- sionally on the sides of the hills along its banks. After cross- ' Coppie creek (Copoi of Symons, Kapyo of Stevens), falling in about a mile west of Waitesbiirg. The next branch from the south is Hookie creek (with which compare Imaheim creek of Stevens' large map) ; Waitesburg is at or by its mouth, and here a railroad comes up from Wallawalla City. 9S1 982 TOUCHET RIVER— i'ELAT CREEK. ! , lf> I ing the creek at the distance of seven miles from our camp, we repassed it seven miles further, near the junction of one of Its branches from the northeast. The main stream here bears to the south, toward the [Blue] mountains, where it rises; its bottoms then become narrow, as the hills are higher." We followed the course of this northeast branch in a direction N. 45° E. for 8^ miles; when, having made 19 miles," we halted in a httle bottom on the north side. The [Pelat] creek is here about four yards wide, and as far as we can perceive it comes from the east; but the road here turns from it into the high [1,500 to 2,000 feet] open plain. The soil of the country seems to improve as we advance, and this afternoon we see in the bottoms an abundance of quamash in bloom. We killed nothing but a duck, though we saw two deer at a distance, as well as many sand-hill crows [cranes], curlews, and other birds common to the prairies, and .here is much sign of both beaver and otter along the creeks. The three young VVollawollahs continued with us. During the day we observed them eating the inner part of the young succulent stem cf a plant {Hcracleiim lanatum\ very common in the rich lands on the Mississippi, Ohio, and its branches. It is a large, coarse plant with a ternate leaf, the leaflets of which are three-lobed and covered with a woolly pubescence, while the flower and fructification resemble those of the parsnip. On tasting this plant we found it agreeable, and ate heartily of it without any inconvenience. May Id. We set out at an early hour and crossed the high plains, which we found more fertile and less sandy than below ; yet, though the grass is taller, there are very few aromatic shrubs. After pursuing a course N. 25° E. for « Dayton, county seat of Columbia Co., Wash., is situ.r- ; at the main forks of Touchet (Toosha) river. The X. E. branch is Pelat, Patit, or Patita creek, up which the Expedition goes for some miles before striking over for the Tukan'on 'The te.xt appears to not agree with itself, for 7+74-81^=22 J4: miles. Cass say 15 miles for May 2d. Lewis K 96 has : " Steered East 3 m. [from camp] over a hilly road along the N. side of the creek, ... a branch falls in on S. side. N. 75° E. 7 [miles]. . . [crossed] the creek at 4 m. on this course. N. 45° E.' 9 m. repassed the creek at 4 m. [on this course] and continued up a N.E. branch 111 ft TUKANON RIVER— PATAIIA CREEK. 983 twelve miles, we reached the Kimooenim/ This creek rises in the southwest [Blue] mountains, and though only twelve yards wide discharges a considerable body of water into Levvis [the Snake] river, a few miles above the narrows. Its bed IS pebbled, {p. 266) its banks are low, and the hiMs near Its sides high and rugged ; but in its narrow bottoms are ound some Cottonwood, willow, and the underbrush wluch grows equally on the east branch of the Wollawollah After dining at the Kimooenim [which we now crossed] we resumed our journey over the high plains, in the direction [Pa aha] branch of that creek, about five yards wide The land m its neighborhood is composed of a dark rich loam • its hill-sides, like those of the Kimooenim, are high • its bottoms narrow, possessing little timber. This increased however, in quantity as we advanced along the north side of the [Pataha] creek for 1 1 miles. At that distance we were agreeably surprised by the appearance of Weahkoonut [Vv e-ark-koomt Lewis K 97], the Indian whom we had called Bighorn from the circumstance of his wearing a horn of that animal suspended from his left arm. He had gone down ^v'lth us last year along Lewis' river, and was highly service- able in preparing the minds of the natives for our reception He IS, moreover, the first chief of a large band of Chopunl n.sh ; and hearing that we were on our return, had come with ten of his warriors to meet us. He now turned back with us and we continued up the bottoms of the creek for two miles, till the road began to leave the creek [to the right] oMhe same which falls in about a mile below where we passed [crossed] the main c.eek. . . A\e passed the small creek [/..., the N.E. branch] at 83/ miles from h commencement of this course and encamped on the N. side Tn a Utle bottom havmg made 19 miles." Thus the discrepancy is only eemin.^ T^'^l'\ ''' "P '^'' "°''"> •'"'•^ °f ^^'-''^' "'•-ek. in Columbia Co curil^::^:r;t7::t:;;:::t!:edt;°;;:rc^^ - at Marengo or Maringo. Lout on the bl:nl';ruveel CoU^^^^^ counties, and some 20-25 miles above its mouth. The br.nch of it rZL , miles further on is the Pataha (Pat-tah-haha of Stevens' C map) "' 984 SNAKE RIVER APPR(MCHED BY ALPOWA CREEK, If ' and cross the hills to the plains. We therefore camped for the night in a j,^rovc of ccttonvvood, after a disaj^recable journey of 28 miles.' During the greater part of the day the air was k'-en and cold, an*' ',i ilhTnately rained, hailed, and snowed; but, though tnt- winr^ blew with great violence, it was fortunately from the southwest, and on our backs. We had consumed at dinner the last of our dried meat and nearly all that was left of the dogs ; so that we supped very scantily on the remainder, and had nothing for to-morrow. Weahkoonut, however, assured us that th .tv- w .•, a house on the river at no great distance, where we might supply ourselves with provisions. We now missed our guide and the Wollawollahs, who left us abruptly this morning and never (/. 26/) returned. Stinday, Mcy ^th. After a disagreeable night, we col- lected our horses at an early hour and proceeded, with a continuation of the same weather. We are now nearer the southwest mountains, which appear to become lower as they advance toward the northeast. We followed the road over the plains, N. 6o<' E. for four miles to a ravine, where was the source of a small [branch of Alpowa] creek, down the hilly and rocky sides of which we proceeded for eight miles to its entrance into Lewis' river, about yyi mi1c3 i jove [below '] » Here the Expedition is in Garfield Co., Wash., east of Pomeroy and Patah City, and only about twelve miles from the Snake river at the mouth of Alpowa creek, where is Silcott. For this creek, see note », p. 625. 'I think we must here read below for "above." Seven ar 1 a half miles above the mouth of Clearwater river, on Snake river, would be in the vicinity of the town of Asotin. The same distance helo7v the mouth of the Clearwater would seem to be necessarily the place to strike the Snake river by the route they had taken. This reading is confirmed in every particular by Gass (p. 208, May 4th), who says that they kept down a creek, /. ,., Alpowa, " until we came to Lewis's river, some distance (^^^7«/ t!,c forks of Koos-koos-ke," i. e., confluence of the Clearwater with the Snake. Then he says that after lunch they " pro- ceeded up the sout/i side of I>ewis's river about three miles," where they crossed it. Snake river here runs approximately east-west; abo\c the mouth of the Clearwater it runs south-north. So Gass' compass-points as well as his ///-river direction agree with what 1 make out. Furthermore, May 5th, after they had crossed from the south to the north bank of the Snake, still belo ■ the mouth of the Clearwater, Gass says, p. 209 : " About 10 o'clock we passed ihe forks, and I I SNAKE RIVER STRUCK BELOW THE KOOSKOOSKEE. 985 the niouth (,f the Kooskooskee. Near this place we found the house which Weahkoonut had mentioned, where we halted for breakfast. It contained six famih-es, so misera- bly poor that all we could obtain from them were two lean dogs and a few large cakes of half-cured bread, made of a root resembling the sweet potato, of all which we contrived to form a kind of soup. The soil of the plain is good, but it has no timber. The range of southwest mountains is about 15 miles above us, but continues to lower, and is still cov- ered with snow to its base. After giving passag. to Lewis' [Snake] river, near their northeastern extremity, they tcrmi nate in a higli [1,500 to 1,000 feet] level plain between that river and the Kooskooskee. The salmon not having yet called them to the rivc.s, the greater part of tl-e Chopunnish are novv dispersed in villages through this plain, for the pur- pose of collecting quamash and cows [see note, May i2thl which here grow in great abundance, the soil being extremely fertile, m many places covered with long-leaved pine, larch and balsam-fir, which contribute to render it less thirsty than the open, unsheltered plains. After our repast we continued our route along the west [«A (Lewis' K 99 has "up") the south] side of the river where, as well on the as opposite shore, the high hills i./t a/0,,:; the north siJ. of Koos-kooskee,"/. ... passed by the mouth ol the Clear vater and k, pt alo ^ its north bank.which they could not have done with- ■ Ihe sTak? "^^^^"^^^^^ had they come do:vn the east (right hand) bank of P. S . Apr. 2d. 1893. I penned the al>ove no., in August. I' ,2. before I knew the codKes existed, and having no map at hand but a commc school atlas I saw that by the text they must fetch out at Asotin, but could , .t see how they got there ; so my friend Gass was a friend indeed, to fortify me. Having later studied out the route with good maps, and traced it through Prescott Waites- burg. Dayton Marengo, Pomeroy. Patah, and Alpowa, I was sure the Expe- dition struck the Sn .e at Silcott, and not at Asotin (Hashoteen). Now for the codex, Lewis K 9,. " Down this creek N. 75° E. 8 ms. to it's entrance into Lewis s nver 7^ ms BELO ,. [capitals mine, as I am happy to say] the entrance of the Kuoskooske. At this point where the Snake is reached, at the mouth of Alpowa creek ,s Silcott or Selk.rk ; across the Snake wns a place called Red \\o\i The Expedition goes up the Snake on its S. side 3 m.. crosses to I'ls JN. Side, and goes up along this to the Kooikooskec. i' lU jl %- I I t^i \ h . n ij i 1: 1 fi t' mi 986 SNAKE RIVKR CROSSKD FROM SOUTH TO NORTH. approach it closely, till at the distance of three miles we halted opimsite two houses. The inhabitants consisted .^f five families of Choixinnish, among whom were Tetoh, or Sky, the younger of the two chiefs who had accompanied us in the autumn to the Great Falls (/>.36S)of the Columbia and also our old pilot, who had conducted us down the river to the Col .mbia. They both advised us to cross [Snake river I here and ascend the Kooskooskec on the noitheast side (north bank], this being the shortest and best route to the forks of that river, where we should find Twisted-hair in whose charge we [hadj left our horses, and to which place they promised to show us the way. Wc did not hesitate to accept this offer, and therefore crossed with the assistance of three canoes ; but, as night was coming on, we purchased a httle wood and some roots of cows, and camped,' though we had made only 15 miles. The evening proved cold and disagreeable, a-nd the natives crowded round our fire in such numbers that we could scarcely cook or even keep ourselves warm. At these houses of the Chopunnish we observed a small hut with a single fire, which we were informed is appropriated for women who are undergoing the operation of the menses; there they are obliged to retreat; the men are not permitted to approach within a certain distance of them, and when anything is to be conveyed to those deserted females, the person throws it to them 40 or 50 paces off and then retires. It is singular," indeed, that among the nations 'At place of ferriaRe, on the north hank of the Snake, in Whitman Co Wash 4h miles west of and below the mouth of the Kooskooskec « Here as in some other places linger the traces of those r'ampant superstitions in which the explorers had been raised, and which may have afifected their editor too. since he allowed such misapprehensions in print. The similarity is simnlv because the " nations of this wilderness " and of the Sinaitic wilderness were about on a par in savager)'. According to the scraps of mythology and history which reach us in the O. T.. the cosmogony and theogony of the nomadic hordes o Arabia, <•. ^^, Gen. i.. ii., etc., is no funnier than that of the Osages. p 13 or Mandans, p. 208 ; the Mandan medicine-stone, p. 236. and the Chilluckitteciuaw medic.ne-bag. p. 675, are duplicates of that "ark" which was so mysteriously connected with hemorrhoids and mice ; while the buffalo-dance p 221 is so much hke one of the sprees reconlod of the man who was after Jehovah's own r FROM WASHINGTON INTO IDAHO, PAST LEWISTON. 987 of this wilderness, there should be found customs and rites so nearly resembling; those of the Jews. It is scarcely neces- sary to allude more particularly to the uncleanness of Jewish females and the rites of purification. May t^th. We collected our horses and at seven o'clock set forward alone ; for Weahkoonut, whose people reside above on the west side of Lewis' river, continued his route home- ward when we crossed to the huts. Our road was across the plains for 4>^ miles, to the entrance of the Kooskooskee.' We then proceeded up [the north bank of | that river, and at five miles reached a larjre mat-house, but could not pro- cure any provisions from the inhabitants ; thoujjh on reach- in^^ another, three miles beyond, we were suri)rised at the liberality of an Indian, who gave Captain Clark a very ele- gant (/. 26(.)) gray marc, for which all he requested was a phial of eye-water. Last autumn, while vvc were camped at the mouth of the Chopunnish river, a man who complained of a pain in his knee and thigh was brought to us in hopes of receiving relief. The man was to appearance recovered from his disorder, though he had not walked for some time. But that we might not disappoint him, Captain Clark, with much cere- mony, washed and rubbed his sore limb, and gave him some volatile liniment to continue the operation, which cither caused or did not prevent his recovery. The man gratefully circulated our praises, and our fame as physicians was increased by the efificacy of some eye-water which we gave at the same time. We are by no means displeased at this new resource for obtaining subsistence, as they [Indians] will give us no provisions without merchandise, and our stock is now very much reduced. We cautiously abstain heart, that the " deadly parallel " could be drawn there more closely than in the present instance of menstruant females. Hut no such monstrosity in the way -jf a god, as Jehovah is rej^resented by his apologists to have been, blackens any page of Lewis and Clark ; to match that, we should have to magnify even the atrociousness of I,e Borgne, p. 242 seq. "The Expedition has passed from Whitman Co., Wash., into Nez-perce Co., Idaho, and now goes by the jircsent site of Lewiston : see note ", p. 620. m'f t^: ;. ' < 988 CAMP ON COLTER'S OR POTLATCH CREEK. IS from giving them any but harmless medicines; and as we cannot possibly do harm, our prescriptions, though unsanc- tioned by the faculty, may be useful and are entitled to some remuneration. Four miles beyond '» this house we came to another large one, contammg ten families, where we halted and made our dinner on two dogs and a small quantity of roots, which we did not procure without much difiRculty. Whilst we were eating, an Indian standing by, looking with great derision at our eating dogs, threw a poor half-starved puppy almost into Captain Lewis plate, laughing heartily at the humor of It Captam Lewis took up the animal and flung it with great force into the fellow's face ; and seizing his tomahawk, threatened to cut h,m down if he dared to repeat such inso! lence. He immediately withdrew, apparently much morti- hed, and we continued our repast of dog very quietly Here we met our old Chopunnish guide, with his family ; and soon afterward one of our horses, which had been separated from the rest m charge of Twisted-hair, and had been in this ne.gjiborhood for several weeks, was caught and restored r T^' r1!""r r P'^' ^^- '^^^ "^"^^^ ^« the entrance of Colters [Potlatch, p. 617] creek, at the distance of four miles; and having made 20% miles, camped on the lower side of It. Colter's creek rises not far from the Rocky mountains, passes in the greater part of its course through a country well supplied with pine, and discharges a large body of water; it is about 25 yards wide, with pebbled bed and low banks. At a little distance from us are two Chopunnish J Past a point opposite the mouth of Lapwai creek, for which see note « p tash, country, thus meaning place of division, or boundary, and the creek 'o have actua ly separated certain Upper and Lower Ne.-pero s, the dis tction between whom was that the former usee, to yo to the buffalo- ountry Ind he "irr'cbn P B X," ^ ^^^^°"^^^^"- - ^'^'^ '•-'--" with a differen and accord n„ I. B. ^^ human .t ,s etymologically correct. The golden rule in ;rdrb:'rrgi;f ^ '' '-- ''-'''-' '-' -^ -- ^^^-^^^y ^^ —c. unto " ■ III ♦• . \i NEESHNEPAHKEOOK'S VILLAGE. 989 houses, one of which contains eight families, and the other, which is by much the largest we have ever seen, is inhabited by at least 30. It is rather a kind of shed built, like all the other huts, of straw and mats in the form of the roof of a house, 156 feet long and about 15 wide, closed at the ends, and having a number of doors on each side. The vast interior is without partitions, but the fire of each family is kindled in a row along the middle of the building, about ten feet apart. This village is the residence of one of the principal chiefs of the nation, who is called Neeshnepahkeook, or Cut-nose, from the circumstance of having his nose cut from the stroke of a lance in battle with the Snake Indians. We gave him a small medal; though he is a great chief, his influence among his own people does not seem to be considerable, and his countenance possesses very little intelligence. We arrived very hungry and weary, but could not purchase any provisions, except a small quantity of the roots and bread of the cows. They had, however, heard of our medical skill, and made many applications for assistance, but we refused to do anything unless they gave us either dogs or horses to eat. We soon had nearly fifty patients. A chief brought his wife with an abscess on her back, and promised to furnish us with a horse to-morrow if we would relieve her. Captain Clark, therefore, opened the abscess, introduced a tent, and dressed it with basilicon. We also prepared and distributed some doses of flour of sulphur and cream of tartar, with directions for its use. For these we obtained several dogs, but too poor for use, (/-. 2yj) and therefore postponed o'lir medical operations till the morning. In the meantime a number of Indians, besides the residents of the village, gathered about us or camped in the woody bottom of the creek. In the evening we learned, by means of a Snake Indian who happened to be at this place, that one of the old men had been endeavoring to excite prejudices against us, by observing that he thought we were bad >nen, and came here, I m in ^ jth. VVeahkoonut and his party left us, and we pro- ceeded up the river with the brother oi Twisted-hair as a -uide. The Kooskooskee is now rising fast; the water is clear and cold ; and as all the rocks and shoals are cov- ered navigation is safe, notwithstanding the rapidity of the current. The timber begins about the neighborhood of Colter's creek, and consists chiefly of long-leaved pine. After going four miles, we reciched a house of six families below the entrance of a small [Bed-rock] creek, where our guide advised us to cross the river, as the route was better and game more abundant near the mouth of the Chopun- (/. 273) nish. We therefore unloaded, and by means of a smgle canoe passed to the south side in about four hours dunng which time we dined. An Indian of on- of the houses now brought two canisters of powder, which his dog had dis- covered underground in a bottom some miles above. We immediately knew them to be the same we had buried last autumn ; as he had kept them safely, and had honesty enough to return them, we rewarded him inadequately, but as well as we could, with a steel for striking fire. We set cut at three o'clock, and pursued a difficult stony road for two miles, when we left the river and asjended the hills on the right, which begin to resemble mountains. But when we reached the heights, we saw before us a beaunful level country, partially ornamented with long-leaved pine, and supplied with an excellent pasture of thick grass and a variety of herbaceous plants, the abundant productions of a dark, rich soil. In many parts of the plain, the earth is thrown up into little mounds, by some animal," whose habits '•'Camp, as given nine miles above Colter's or Potlatch creek, should he on N bank of the Kooskooskee, fo..r miles I.elow Bed-rock creek, for which see note =» p. 617, Oct. 7th. How they lost their supper is best explained in Lewis K 105 • I directed the horse whi.- -.v. l.ad obtained for the purpose of ea'.ing to be led as if was yetunbroke, i. > erf ,n,.ing this duty a quarrel ens, .d between Drewver and Colter. "The pocket-gopher r this region, a species of Thomomys known as the M 11: 1 4 I 'i> r M a 5 l;f 994 CAMP ON jack's creek. P- -63] but hou^^h these tracks are scattered over all the Ph uns frcn the Mississippi to the Pacific, we have nev r yet been able to obtain a sight of the animal itself overtook T"'\ '): "'"" N-'^'^-P-J^'--ok, the Cut-nose, eye took us and after accompanying us a few miles turned oot i,:'f '^ ""' rr. ^^ ^'^ P-P'^' -^- -- ^-thering oo m the plam. Hav.ng crossed the plain a little to the smrth of east, we descended a long steep hill, at the distance into the Kooskooskee.'" We ascended this little stream for am.le and camped at an Indian establishment of six houses wh.ch seem to have been recently evacuated. Here we were jomed by Neeshnepahkeeook and the Shoshonee who had mterpreted for us on the sth. ZZ:::^ f-;;j';f-^ness for the bulos of the camass (,„an.a.h. Ca.ass,a r^cuUna). he specs ,s uncertain, and cannot be determinea without sn-ri r:; v""^ t ''^^^'■'^- ^'^ ''"""""^" '■'--> '•-- ^^'i'- Acad. x ; ■ Oass says ,. 2io, May 7th. that after crossing to the south side of the Koos ^ve struck this creeic at tlie distance of 5 ms. from the point at whici, we left the river our cours be nc a littlp to th« c: „f 17 . , "" '" """-'i «e lett the tho i-7 tv ■ ■ ,. i his is Jack s creek, mah and Ahlerijks .1 c^ '" "'" '^"""^'^•'°" ^'evens' Pepuenne- anci Aniean creeks ; also Canister run of Clark 1 6.) PROSPECT OF DETENTION BY THE SNOWS. 995 From the plain we observed that the spurs of the Rocky mountams arc still perfectly covered with snow, which the Indians inform us is so deep that we shall not be able to pass {p.274) before the next full moon-that is, the 1st of June; though others place the time for crossing at a still greater distance. To us, who are desirous of reaching the P ams of the Missouri-if for no other reason, for the purpose of enjoying a good meal-this intelligence was by no means we come, and gave no relish to the remainder of the horse killed at Colter s creek, which formed our supper, as part of which had already been our dinner. Observing, however some deer, and a great appearance of more, we determined to make an attempt to get some of them. Therefore, after a cold night s rest, May Wi, most of the hunters set out at daylight " Bv eleven o'clock they all returned, with four deer, and a duck of an uncommon kind,- which, with the remains of our horse, formed a stock of provisions such as we had not lately possessed. Without our facilities of procuring sub- sistence with guns, the natives of this country must often suffer very severely. During last winter they were so much distressed for food that they were obliged to boil and eat the moss growing on the pine-trees. At the name period they cut down nearly all the long-leaved pines, which we observed on the ground, for the purpose of collecting the seeds, which resemble in si.e and shape those of the large sun-flower, and when roasted or boilci are nutritious and not disagreeable to the taste. At the present season they peel this pme-tree, and eat the inner and succulent bark. In the [Jack sj creek near us, they also procure trout by means '' " Most of the hunters turned out by light this morning a few others remained s" ivTrT'^i", "^ '"r^'^ """^ '"^ ^" '- ^-"'"s- -™rn K ,?n T. "''""''"'■"'f"^^ '-^"^1 mattention t„ the order of last evening," Lewis K 109 The successful ones were Shields, Drewyer. and Cruzatte. t ho each Sabled"' "^''"" "-""'' '"^ '^'"^'^ ''^ ^°"^"^ °-- -'^'^-h Colhns Li "Clark Q 114, ,15, this date, has a long description of this duck, whir], is the shoveler. Sp.Uuia clypeata. The same description is copied in Lewis K xo^ V n: il i ) 996 TWlSTKn-IIAFK AND CUt-NOSF. FAI.I, OUT. W^ * of a fall.ng-trap, constructed on the same plan with tl.ose common to the United States. We ..we Necshnepa!,- keeook and h.s people some of our K^a.ne and horse-beef, besides the entra.Is of tlie deer, and four fawns which we found msule of two of them. Tiny did not eat any <,f them perfectly raw, but the entrails had very little cook- ■nj;; he fawns were boiled whole, and the hide, hair, and cntrads all consunied. The Shoshonee was offended at not Hav.n^r as much venison as he wished, and refused to nnerpret; but as we took no notice of him. he became very ofllcous .n the course of a few hours, and (/.. j7c) made many efforts to reinstate himself in our fav.',,- rhe mother [...-read brother: but see p. loooj of Twisted^ lia.r, and Neeshnepahkeeook. now drew a sketch, which we preservec. of all the waters west of the Rocky mountains. Ihcy nmke the main southern branch [/.... the Snake itself I of Lew.s nver much more extensive than the other f/ r Salmon nver], and place a great number of Shoshonee viU lages on its western side. [See codex-map. Clark M i -^ 1 Between three and four o'clock in the afternoon we set out. ,n company with Neeshnepahkeeook and other Indians the brother of Twisted-hair having left us. Our route was up a high steep hill to a level plain with little wood, through which we passed in a direction parallel to the [Kooskooskeel nver for four miles, when we met Twisted-hair and six of his people To this chief we had confided our horses - id a part of our saddles last autumn, and we therefore formed very unfavorable conjectures on finding that he received u-s witn great coldness. Shortly afterward he began to speak ,n a very loud, angry manner, and was answered by Neeshnepahkeeook. We now discovered that a violent quarrel had arisen between these chiefs, on the subject as we afterward understood, of our horses. But as we could not learn the cause, and were desirous of terminating the d.spute. we interposed, and told them we should go on to he first water and camp. We therefore set out, followed by all the Indians, and having reached, at two miles' dis- BROKKN-ARM AI,S() IN TROUBLE. 997 ancc, a sma 1 stream'- running to the right, we camped with he tvvoch.efs and their little bands, forming separate camps at a (.stance from each other. They all appeared to be in an .11 humor; and as we had already heard reports that the Indians had discovered and carried off our saddles, and that he horses were very much scattered, we began to be uneasy, est there should be too much fou.ulation for the report We were therefore an.xious to reconcile the two chiefs as soon as possible, and desired the Shoshonce to interpret for us whde we attempted a mediation, but he peremptorily refused to speak a word. He observed that it was a quarrc4 between the two chiefs, and he had therefore no right to inter- (A ..^d) fere; nor could all our representations, that by merely repeating what we said he could not possiblv be considered as meddling between the chiefs, induce him to take any part in it. Soon afterward Drcwyer returned from hunting, and was sent to invite Twisted-hair to come and smoke with us He accepted the invitation, and as we were smoking the pine over our fire he informed us that according to his promise on leaving us at the falls of the Columbia, he had collected our horses and taken charge of them as soon as he reached honie. But about this time Neeshnepahkeeook and Tun- nachemootoolt (Broken-arm) who. as we passed, were on a war-party against the Shoshonees on the south branch of Lewis river returned; and becoming jealous of him, because the horses had been confided to his care, were constantly quarreling with him. At length, being an old man and un- willing to live in perpetual dispute with these two chiefs he had given up the care of the horses, which had consequently become very muich scattered. The greater part of them J*' A little branch which run to the Wright, . . . having traveled 6 miles to- da> LeuMs k 112. Ihe trail is not plain, and if they proceeded parallel with he Kooskooskee, a stream called Big Canon river (see note - p. 6i ) remains be accounted for unless this " little branch" be it, or . brand of i But th hould run from the.r right to their left as they went eastward. They are mak 1 forthe Upper Kooskooskee. which they appear to strike at a poiu f u" m i 1 es above the mouth of the Chopunnish river, or its North fork, as we presently se !iB ^1 I \2 h^^m i\ ')9« CUT-NOSE RKVILKS TVVISTKD-HAIK. n wt'v, howc-vcr, still in this nciKliborlKx.d ; some in tiu- forks between the Chopumiisli .m,! Kooskooskee, and three or four at tlu- villa^'e of JJtokeii-arm, about half a day's inarch liiuher up the | latter] river, lie added that, on the rise of tile river in the sprin-, the earth had fallen from the do.)r of the cache and exposed the saddles, some of which had prob- ably been lost; but as soon as he was ac(|uaiiited with the situation of them, he had them buried in another deposit, where they now are. lie promised that if we would stay to-morrow at his house, a few miles from this plae< , he- would collect such of the horses as were in the neit,dibor- hood. and send his youni; men for those in the forks over the Kooskooskee. lie moreover advised us to visit Hroken- .irm, who was a chief of jrrcat eminence, and that lie would himself ^ruidc us to his dweIlinK^ Wc fold him that we meant to follow his advice in every respect ; that we had contldeil our horses to his char^^-, and expected that he would deliver them to us, on which we should wiliin-Iy pay him the (/. jjy) two ^anis and ammunition we had i.ri)miseil. With this he seemed very much pleased, and declared that he would use every exertion to restore our horses." We now sent for Cut-nose, and after smokin^r for some time, took occasion to express to the two chiefs our re^rrct at seeing a misunderstandin ,cl and a few bushes of balsam-fir. It was built in tin usual form, of sticks, mats, and dried hay; ,nul although it contained no more than two fires and tweh persons, was provided with the customary appendage"" of a small hut, to which females in certain situa- tions were (o retreat. As soon as we halted '■" at this place, we went will- Twisted-hair to the spot where he had buried our saddles, and two young Indians were dispatched after our horses. Our hunters joiner villi nolliini; but a fcW pheas- ants, the only deer which they killed liavin-,: been lost in the river. We therefore dined on soup made uf the roots"' «" " An appcndaKu of ti.c solitary lo,!;.;. fl,o retreat of the tawny damsels when nature causes them to l)e driven into covcnir ," Lewis K 115. ••'' " We halted as had l)cen previously toucerted, .and one man [Willard] with 2 horses accompayed the twisted hair to the canoe camp about 4 ms. in .,uest of the saddles." This is the clearest indication I can discover of the where- al.outs of the party, and even this is not given in the text. Canoe camp (see p. 612) was on the south bide of the KoosUooskee, opp,,,itc the conlluence of the Chopunnish. The camp of Twi-sitd-hair, when we first ma.le his aciuaintanee (p. r)()7), was on an island in the Kooskooskee near the mouth of X'illage, Flores, or Jim Ford's creek. For a small matter, the itinerary of May 7th-9th is'tmuhle^ some. We have to set camii to.ni^;ht ii m open jilain, short (west) of the Koos- kooskee, not far from opposite the mouth of the creek just named, at a point given .IS 4 ui. south of Canoe camp, yet only 16 miles north of Cominearp creek hills, as we are told. •"Clark (J iif)-u8, this date; "a root called the quaivmash mm\ cows are esteemed. The cows is a knohhed root of iin irregular form, rounded, not unlike the gensang this root they collect rub off a thin black rind which covers it and pounding it expose it in cakes to the .sun," etc. Lewis K ir6. same date : 'These cakes are about an inch and )i thick and 6 by 18 in widtli when dried they either eat this bread alone without any further preparation, or boil it and make a thick musilajje ; the latter is most common and much the most agreeable, the ilavor of the root is not very unlike the gensang.— this root they collect as early as the snows disappear in the spring and continue to collect it until the ([uawmash supjilys its place which happens about the latter end of June. " '. \ hi \ \ > h ^'1 .%. ^ nO-. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) h y. < <» 1.0 ■II I.I 11.25 2.2 I -^ IIIIIM U ill 1.6 Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 87^-4503 m \^- :\ q>\^ ^\ WrS «. ¥^ '^ &■ mmmmmm (.■!?i i'f ■{■ 'L I i;»i,| * ;, 'if ♦ ; . a ^'t; !- lOOO TWISTED-HAIR'S BROTHER AN IMPOSTOR. {/>■ 278), which we purchased of the Indians. Late in the afternoon, Twisted-hair returned with about half the saddles we had left in the autumn, and some powder and lead which were buried at the same place. Soon after, the Indians brought us 21 of our horses, the greater part of which were in excellent order, though some had not yet recovered from hard usage, and three had sore backs. We were, however, very glad to procure them in any condition. Several Indians came down from the village of Tunnachemootoolt and passed the night with us. Cut nose and Twisted-hair seem now perfectly reconciled, for they both slept in the house of the latter. The man who had imposed himself upon us as a brother of Twisted-hair also came and renewed his advances, but we now found that he was an impertinent, proud fellow, of no respectability in the nation, and we therefore felt no inclination to cultivate his intimacy. Our camp was in an open plain, and soon became very uncom- fortable, for the wind was high and cold, and the rain and hail, which began about seven o'clock, changed in two hours to a heavy fall of snow, which continued till after six o'clock, May loth, the next morning, when it ceased, after cov- ering the ground eight inches deep and leaving the air keen and cold. We soon collected our horses, and after a scanty breakfast of roots set out on a course S. 35^ E." across The true ginseng is a plant of the order Araliacecr. (related to the UmbelUfer(B and containing the ivy), Panax ginseng, a native of China ; what the authors mean is the corresponding species common in the United States, P. quinque- folia. Both are commercial products of much value, owing to their medicinal repute. The plant whose root is here called cows, elsewhere coivas, is the same as cowish, given in the Century Dictionary as a plant found in the valley of the Columbia river, " probably some species of Peucedanum" But it certainly is the well-known Peucedanum cous. The " quamash and cows" noted at May 4th are thus given by Gass under date of May 12th : "We also got bread made of roots, which the natives call Cow-as, and sweet roots which they call Com- mas." The Rev. Mr. M'Vickar renders ' cows " by " cow-weed." " A course approximately parallel with the Upper Kooskooskee, up which the Expedition proceeds, but in the plains a little distance west of this river, some points of which may here be noted. The South fork or American river- comes north thtough a gap in Mt. Idaho. Five or six miles below this cafion is Jackson's bridge ; about 15 miles by river furriier north, the South fork joins tlie UP THE KOOSKOObKEE TO COMMEARP CREEK. lOOI the plains, the soil of which being covered with snow, v/e could only judge from observing that near the ravines, where it had melted, the mud was deep, black, and well supplied with quamash. The road was very slippery ; the snow stuck to the horses' feet and made them slip down very frequently. After going about i6 miles we came to the hills of Commearp creek, which are 600 feet in height, but the tops of which only are covered with snow, their lower parts as well as the bottoms of the creek having (/. 279) had nothing but rain while it snowed in the high plains. On descending these hills to the creek, we reached, about four o'clock, the house of Tunnachemootoolt, where was displayed the flag we had given him, raised on a staff. Under this we were received with due form, and then conducted a short distance " to a good spot for a camp on Commearp creek. Middle fork, or main course of the Kooskooskee ; whence the united streams take the name of Upper Kooskooskee, and flow about 30 miles to the confluence of the North fork or Chopunnish river (where was Canoe camp, and whence the river becomes the Lower Kooskooskee). The general course of the Upper Kooskooskee, from the junction of the South and Middle forks to the North fork, is about N. 28° W. The principal obstructions to navigation in this course are the followitig rapids : at 27 miles above the North fork, Indian Billy's half a mile long, 14 ft. fall ; at 23 miles, Reuben's, 500 ft. long, 3 ft. fall • Lt 19 miles, Miner's, 1000 ft., 15 ft. fall ; at x^A miles, Carlton's, T50 ft.' long • at i6>4 miles, Cafton, 500 ft. long ; at 16 miles. Sixteen-mile, 1000 ft. long, 15 ft. fall ; at 15 miles. Granite, 350 ft. long ; at 10 miles, Grier's, 700 ft. long 3 ft. fall ; at 7 miles. Ford's, 400 ft. long, 3 ft. fall ; at i^ miles. Slew Gundy ; at mouth of the river, or junction of the North fork. Cobblestone bar. (See Report of Philip G. Eastwick, 1878.) The principal affluents of the Upper Koos- kooskee are : first, Kamai, Komeyer, or Commearp creek, now Lawyer's CaHon creek, from the west, the only considerable stream on this side, falling in a few miles north of the confluence of the South and Middle fork ; then, from the east Collins' creek, Nahwah river or Lo Lo fork ; Village, Flores, or Jim Ford's creek ; and Rockdam or Oro Fino creek. " A vo-y short distance--' ' about 80 yds. ," Lewis K ng ; for the spot see note ' p. roog. As already stated, note «, p. 601, the creek whose name is spelled " Commearp" in L. and C. is otherwise known as Kamai and Komeyer creek and now usually called Lawyer's Caiion creek. It is the only considerable tribu- tary of the Upper Kooskooskee from the west, and its course, as far as it goes separates Nez-perc^ Co., Idaho, from Idaho Co. on the south-the Upper Koos- kooskee separating these same counties as far down as Collins' creek, whence to the Chopunnish river the Upper Kooskooskee separates Nezperce from Sho- \ SI ■ m\ k' I002 CHOPUNNISH HOSPITALITY. We soon collected the men of consideration, and after smoking, explained how destitute we were of provisions The chief spoke to the people, who immediately brought two bushels of dried quamash-roots, some cakes of the roots of cows, and a dried salmon-trout ; we thanked them for this supply, but observed that, not being accustomed to live on roots alone, we feared that such diet might make our men sick, and therefore proposed to exchange one of our good horses, which was rather poor for one that was fatter, and which we might kill. The hospitality of the chief was offended at the idea of an exchange ; he observed that his people had an abundance of young horses, and that if we were disposed to use that food we might have as many as we wanted. Accordingly, they soon gave us two fat young horses, without asking anything ii return, an act of liberal shone Co. Since passing the site of Lewiston the Expedition has been entirely within Nez-perce Co. ; and they may be said simply to have followed up the Koos- kooskee thus far-first on its north bank eastward to Bed-rock creek, then alone Its south bank eastward to near where its North fork comes in, ;hen turning fe.S.E. along its west bank to Commearp creek. Near the mouth of this creek but across the Kooskooskee. in Idaho Co.. is a place which passes for a town by the name of Kamai or Kamia. A very few miles below the mouth of Com- mearp creek, on the Kooskooskee, is the terminus of both the Northern and South- ern Nez-perce trails through Idaho, as laid down by Stevens-the former being he Mullan trail of 1854, as we have seen (p. 601), and the latter the Tinkham trail of Nov., 1853. The present name of " Lawyer's " creek and cafton has a history. Lawyer was an Indian who became famous mainly because his father was the man who kept Lewis and Clark's horses during the winter of 1805-6. He claimed to remember the explorers perfectly well. His name occurs more than once in books, as for example in Stevens' Report, p 108 Chief Lawyer was living about 20 years ago. and we pick up this personal link of the Expedition in the book (pub. 1872) of Mrs. Victor, who was intro- duced to Lawyer by Mr. Perrin B. Whitman, nephew of the missionary Dr Marcus Whitman, slain in the Wallawalla massacre of the whites at Waiilatini Mission. Nov. 29th, 1847. Lawyer told her that L. and C. had misunderstood the meaning of the word " Kooskooskee"; that the Indians, being questioned concerning this river, and seeing that the object of the explorers was to reach the nver of the west " t. e., the Columbia, told them that the Clearwater was not that great river, but was " Kooskooskee." i. e., a smaller river ; though what the real name of the Clearwater was Lawyer could not aay. See p. 596 note 88 and p. 6i6-seeming to indicate that there was some hitch about the name' upon which Mrs. Victor's story bears quite plausibly. mf I Ell W' 'f HOHASTILPILP ARRIVES— COUNCIL HELD. 1003 hospitality much greater than any we have witnessed since crossing the Rocky mountains, if it be not in fact the only really hospitable treatment we have received in this part of the world. We killed one of the horses, and tiien telling the natives that we were fatigued and hungry, and that as soon as we were refreshed we would communicate freely with them, began to prepare our repast. During this time, a principal chief, called Hohastilpilp came from his village about six miles distant, with a party of 50 men, for the purpose of visiting us. We invited him into our circle ; he alighted and smoked with us, while his retinue, who had five elegant horses, continued mounted at a short distance. While this was going on, the [other"] chief hc>.d a large leat.iern tent spread for us, and desired that we would make that our home whilst we (/. 280) remained at his village. We removed there ; and having made a fire, we cooked a supper of horse-beef and roots, collected all the distinguished men present, aM spent the evening in explain- ing who we were, the objects of our journey, and giving answers to their inquiries. To each of the chiefs, Tunnache- mootoolt and Hohastilpilp, we gave a small medal, explain- ing the use and importance [of medals] as honorary distinc- tions among both the white and the red men. Our men are delighted at once more having made a hearty meal. They have generally been in the habit of crowding the houses of the Indians and endeavoring to purchase provisions on the best terms they could ; for the inhospitality of the country was such that, in the extreme of hunger, they were often obliged to treat the natives with but little ceremony ; but this Twisted-hair had told us was disagreeable. Finding these people so kind and liberal, we ordered our men to treat them with great respect and not to throng round their » Tunnachemootoolt, at whose village they were. They simply made the chief s large tent their headquarters and did not " remove " six miles to Ilohas- tilpilp's vdlage as the text migiit suggest. The medal they gave the former chief was the small one with Jefferson's likeness ; Hohastilpilp received one of the " sewmg •• medals, struck during the presidency of Washington. Lewis K 1 19. ; M (i ■ I : ■h ■ >i 1 1 1 \ 1 ).' I ii- Ay t ,. 1 I Flu i if t ' i 1 ' r 4' ■ \4 1 " ' I 1 , f ' 1 «;: » ! I' 1004 POLYGLOT CHOPUNNISH COUNCIL. fires ; so that they now agree perfectly well together. After our council the Indians felt no disposition to retire, and our tent was crowded with them all night. May wth. We arose early and breakfasted again on horse-flesh. This village of Tunnachemootoolt is in fact only a single house, 150 feet long, built after the Chopun- nish fashion, with sticks, straw, and dried grass. It coirtains 24 fires, about double that number of families, and might perhaps muster 100 fighting men. The usual outhouse, or retiring-hut for females, is not omitted. Their chief subsist- ence is roots, and the noise made by the women in pound- ing them gives the hearer the idea of a nail factory. Yet, notwithstanding so many families are crowded together, the Chopunnish are much more cleanly in their persons and habitations than any people we have met since we left the Ottoes on the river Platte. In the course of the morning a chief named Yoompahka- tim, a stout, good-looking man about forty years of age, (/. 281) who had lost his left eye, arrived from his village on the south side of Lewis' river. We gave him a small medal ; and finding that there were present the principal chiefs of the Chopunnish nation, Tunnachemootoolt, Neeshnepah- keeook, Yoompahkatim and Hohastilpilp, whose rank is in the order they are mentioned, we thought this a favorable moment to explain to them the intentions of our govern- ment. We therefore collected the chiefs and warriors, and hav- ing drawn a map of the relative situation of o' r country on a mat with a piece of coal, detailed the natur. .nd power of the American nation, its desire to preserve harmony be- tween all its red brethren, and its intention of establishing trading-houses for their relief and support. It was not with- out difficulty, nor till after nearly half the day was spent, that we were able to convey all this information to the Cho' punnish, much of which might have been lost or distorted in its circuitous route through a variety of languages ; for in the first place, we spoke in English to one of our men, m EXTENSIVE MEDICAL PRACTICE. 1005 who translated it into French to Chaboneau ; he inter- preted it to his wife in the Minnetaree language ; she then put it into Shoshonee, and the young Shoshonee prisoner explained it to the Chopunnish in their own dialect. At last we succeeded in communicating the impression we wished, and then adjourned the council ; after which we amused them by showing the wonders of the compass, spy-glass, magnet, watch, and air-gun, each of which at- tracted its share of admiration. They said that after we had left the Minnetarees last autumn, three young Cho- punnish had gone over to that nation, who had mentioned our visit and the extraordinary articles we had with us ; but they had placed no confidence in it [this relation] until now. Among other persons present was a youth, son of the Chopunnish chief, of much consideration, killed not long since by the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie. As soon as the council was over, he brought a very fine mare with a colt, and begged us to accept them as a proof that he meant to (/. 282) pursue our advice, for he had opened his ears to our councils, which had made his heart glad. We now resumed our medical labors, and had a number of patients afflicted with scrofula, rheumatism, and sore eyes, to all of whom we administered very cheerfully, as far as our skill and supplies of medicine would permit. We also visited a chief who has for three years past so completely lost the use of his limbs that he lies like a perfect corpse in whatever position he is placed ; yet he eats heartily, digests his food very well, has a regular pulse, and retains his flesh- in short, were he not somewhat pale from lying so long out of the sun, he might be mistaken for a man in perfect health. This disease does not seem to be common ; we have seen only three cases of it among the Chopunnish, who alone are afifiicted with it. The scrofulous disorders we may readily conjecture to originate in the long confinement to vegetable diet, which may perhaps also increase the soreness of the eyes ; but this strange disorder baffles at once our curiosity ■' !S It. friil II 4i 1006 TUNNACHEMOOTOOLT'S POWERFUL ORATION. and our skill. Our assistance was again demanded early the next morning, Majf I2th, by a crowd of Indians, to whom we gave eye- water. Shortly after, the chiefs and warriors held a council among themselves, to decide on their answer to our speech ; and the result was, as we were informed, that they confided in what we had told them, and resolved to follow our advice. This resolution once made, the principal chief, Tunnachemootoolt, took a quantity of flour of the roots of cows, and going round to all the kettles and baskets, in which his people were cooking, thickened the soup into a kind of mush. He then began a harangue, making known the result of the deliberations among the chiefs ; and after exhorting them to unanimity, concluded by an invitation to all who agreed to the proceedings of the council to come and eat, while those who would not abide by the decision of the chiefs were requested to show their dissent by not par- taking of the feast. During this animated harangue, the women, {p. 283) who were probably uneasy at the prospect of forming this new connection with strangers, tore their hair and wrung their hands, with the greatest appearance of distress. But the concluding appeal of the orator effect- ually stopped the mouth of every malcontent ; the proceed- ings were ratified, and the mush was devoured with the most zealous unanimity.''" The chiefs and warriors then came in a body to visit us, as we were seated near our tent ; and at their instance, two young men, one of whom was the son of Tunnachemootoolt and the other the youth whose father had been killed by the Pahkees, presented to each of us a fine horse. We caused the chiefs to be seated, and gave every one of them a flag, a pound of powder and 50 balls, and a present of the same kind to the young men from whom we had received the horses. They invited us into the tent, and told us that *• " I was told by one of our men who was present, that there was not a dis- senting voice on this great national question, but all swallowed their objections. if any they had, very cheerfully with their mush," Lewis K 123. SATISFACTORY CONCLUSIONS REACHED. 1007 they Wished to answer what we had told them yesterday but that many of their people were at that moment waiting m great pam for our medical assistance. It was therefore agreed that Captain Clark, who is the favorite physician, should visit the sick, while Captain Lewis would hold the council; which was accordingly opened by an old man, the father of Hohastilpilp. He began by declaring that the nation had listened with attention to our advice, and had only one heart and one tongue in declaring their determina- tion to follow it. They knew well the advantages of peace, for they valued the lives of their young men too much to expose them to the dangers of war ; and their desire to live quietly with their neighbors had induced them last summer to send three warriors with a pipe to the Shoshonees, in tht plains of the Columbia south of Lewis' river. These minis- ters of peace had been killed by the Shoshonees, against whom the nation immediately took up arms. They had met them last winter and killed 42 men, with the loss of only three of their own party; so that having revenged their deceased brethren, they would no longer make war on the bhoshonees, but receive them as friends. As to ip 284) going with us to the plains of the Missouri, they would be very willing to do so, for though the Blackfoot Indians and the Pahkees had shed much of their blood, they still wished to live in peace with them. But we had not yet seen either of these nations, and it would therefore be unsafe for them to venture, till they were assured of not being attacked by them. Howevei, some of their young men would accom- pany us across the mountains, and if they could effect a peace with their enemies, the whole nation would go over to the Missouri in the course of next summer. On our pro- posal that one of the chiefs should go with us to the country of the whites, they had not yet decided, but would let us know before we left them. But at all events, the whites might calculate on their attachment and their best services- for though poor, their hearts were good. The snow was' however, still so deep on the mountains that we should i : I iw^ff'mmmimfmmf^mmi ima^ 1008 AMENITIES AND FESTIVITIES. ■ .1 perish in attempting the passage ; but if we waited till after the next full moon, the snows would have sufficiently melted to enable our horses to subsist on .ae grass. As soon as this speech was concluded, Captain Lewis replied at some length; with this they appeared highly gratified, and after sn oking the pipe, made us a present of another fat horse for food. We, in turn, gave Broken-arm a phial of eye-water, with directions to wash the eyes of all who should apply for it ; and as we promised to fill it again when it was exhausted, he seemed very much pleased with our liberality. To Twisted-hair, who had last night collected SIX more horses, we gave a gun, 100 balls, and two pounds of powder, and told him he should have the same quantity when we received the remainder of our horses. In the course of the day three more of them were brought in," and a fresh exchange of small presents put the Indians in excel- lent humor. On our expressing a wish to cross the river and form a camp, in order to hunt and fish till the snows had melted, they recommended a position a few miles dis- tant, and promised to furnish us to-morrow with a canoe to cross. (/. 2Ss) We invited Twisted-hair to settle near our camp, for he has several young sons, one of whom we hope to engage as a guide, and he promised to do so. Having now settled all their afifairs, the Indians divided themselves into two parties, and began to play the game of hiding a bone, already described as common to all the natives of this country, which they continued playing for beads and other ornaments. " " We have now six horses out only, as our old guide Toby and his son each took a horse of ours when they returned last spring," Lewis K 126. Here is a name that does not occur in the text, and which I did not know of till I found It here in the codex. Now " Toby " must be entered on the historical roll 1«t II .. CHAPTER XXX. CAMP CHOPUNNISH. ON THE UPPER KOOSKOOSKEE. The Koo,koo.kee crowed-Camp Chopunnish. on its east bank-Ho,pit»li(y of the rho. pun„.sh-Charactcri.tic, of different bears-Indian cooking of bfar Wa -G Idin' ^aU hons-Various occupations-Indian honesty-Game scarce-Bad weather Th. T county and it, producti.„j-Acco.nt of L Chopu^nTh-'trd'ran ^TJn '.-' The am able character-Mode of burial-Reptiles of the country-Horned lizards-Var ou. nsects-Indian huntrng and fishing-Medical practice-The commissary deficient-Much orv „ h~ °r '""'"'P'"''''-"""'"" out-Sweatingan Indian chief-7ndian Natural hls^ tory of bears-Important trade for provisions-Story of the stolen tomahawk-Selan Ordway , hunt.ng-party returns-The Ton.manamah. or East fork of LewU' river InZ„ ry^nX?""""'-'"' -'^-^-P°""«" -Pecting the accompt'n^^g T't^e'^a::; -rrUESDAY, May 13th, 1806. Our medical visits occu- ^ pied us till a late hour, after which we collected our horses and proceeded for two miles in a southeastern direc tion, crossing a branch from the right at the distance of a mile. We then turned nearly north, and crossing an exten- sive open bottom a mile and a half wide, reached the bank of the Kooskooskee.' Here we expected the canoe which they had promised ; but though a man had been dispatched with It at the appointed time, he did not arrive before sun- set We therefore camped, with a number of Indians who had followed us from the village, and in the morning, May i4t/i, after sending out some hunters, transported the baggage by means of the canoe, and then drove our horses into the river, over which they swam without acci- dent, though it is 1 50 yards wide and the current very rapid We then descended the river about (/. 287) half a mile, and formed our camp on the spot which the Indians had recom- ' " W« ff °^^«d the [Commearp] creek downwards about two miles, passing a stout branch at i m. which flowed in on the right [from the south], our course b E we now entered an extensive open bottom of the Kooslcooske R. through which we passed nearly N. about I'A miles, and halted on the [west] bank of the river, Lewis K 127. This fixes two points with precision ; for the text has not hitherto shown us just how far up they struck Commearp creek on the loth. lOOQ ,T^ ! , lOIO ESTAfiMSHMENT OF CAMP CHOPUNNISH. mended.' It was about 40 paces from the river, and for- merly an Indian habitation; but nothing remained but a circle 30 yards in diameter, sunk in the ground about 4 feet, with a wall around it of nearly 3^ feet in height. In this place we deposited our baggage, and around its edges formed our tents of sticks and grass. This situation is in many respects advantageous. It is an extensive level bot- tom, thinly covered with long-leaved pine, with a rich soil affording excellent pasture, and supplied, as well as the high and broken hills on the east and northeast, with the best game in the neighborhood ; while its vicinity to the river makes it convenient for the salmon, which are now expected daily. As soon as we camped, Tunnachemootoolt and Hohastilpilp, with about twelve of their nation, came to the opposite side and began to sing, this being the usual token of friendship on such occasions. We sent the canoe for them, and the two chiefs came over with several of the party, among whom were the two young men who had given us the two horses in behalf of the nation. After smoking some time, Hohastilpilp presented to Captain Lewis an elegant gray gelding, which he had brought for the purpose, and wa3 perfectly satisfied at receiving in return a handkerchief, 200 balls, and four pounds of powder. The hunters killed some pheasants, two squirrels, and [Col- lins] a male and a female bear, the first of which was large, fat, and of a bay color ; the second meager, grizzly, and of smaller size. They were of the species [Ursits horribilis] common to the upper part of the Missouri, and might well be termed the variegated bear, for they are found occasion- ally of a black, grizzly, brown, or red color. There is every ' The Expedition is to remain here in camp on the east bank of the Upper Kooskooskee or Clearwater river until June loth, or nearly a month, to wait for the melting of the snows on the Bitter-root mountains, which they have to cross. Thus it is the place of the next longest residence of the Expedition, after Fort Mandan and Fort Clatsop. It does not seem to have ever received a name, and may therefore be called Camp Chopunnish. We have the exact location, in Idaho Co., Idaho ; and distances from various notable points will appear in the narrative in due course. CHARACTERISTICS OF VARIOUS HEARS. lOII reason to believe them to be of precisely the same species. Those of different colors are killed together, as in the case of these two, and as we found the white and bay associated together on the Missouri ; and some nearly white were seen in this neigh- (/>. 28S) borhood by the hunters. Indeed, it is not common to find any two bears of the same color ; and if the difference in color were to constitute a distinction of species, the number would increase to almost twenty. Soon afterward the hunters killed a female bear with two cubs. The mother was black, with a considerable intermixture of white hairs and a white spot on the breast. One of the cubs was jet black, and the other of a light reddish-brown or bay color. The foil ' of these variegated bears are [isj much finer, longer, and more abundant than that of the com- mon black bear; but the most striking differences betw -n them are that the former are larger and have longer tusks and longer as well as blunter talons ; that they prey more on other animals; that they lie neither so long nor so closely m wmter-quarters ; and that they never climb a tree, how- ever closely pressed by the hunters. These variegated bears though specifically the same with those we met on the Mis- souri, are by no means so ferocious; probably because the scarcity of game and the habit of living on roots may have weaned them from the practices of attacking and devouring animals. Still, however, they are not so passive as the com- mon black bear, which is also to be found here ; for they have already fought with our hunters, though with less fury than those on the other side of the mountains. A large part of the meat we gave to the Indians, to whom It was a real luxury, as they scarcely taste flesh once in a month. They immediately prepared a large fire of dried wood, on which was thrown a number of smooth stones from the river. As soon as the fire went down and the stones were heated, they were laid next to each other in a level position, and cove. >d with a quantity of branches of 'Misprint for /^//, clearly and correctly written, Clark Q no, meaning of course, the hair or pelage. See note «, p. 849. ' 1 ' ■■ftl i If t / 1 r iB 1 .« i.'.^ "i, r---"-K IOI2 INDIAx>J METHOD OF GELDING HORSES. pine, on which were placed flitches of the bear ; thus placed, the boughs and the flesh alternated for several courses, lca\'- ing a thick layer of pine on the top. On this heap was then poured a small quantity of water, and the whole was cov- ered with earth to the depth of four inches. After remain- ing in this state about three hours the meat was taken off ; it was (/. 2Sp) really more tender than that which we had boiled or roasted, though the strong flavor of the pine ren- dered it disagreeable to our palates. This repast gave them much satisfaction ; for though they sometimes kill the black bear, yet they attack very reluctantly the furious variegated bear, and only when they can pursue him on horseback through the plains and shoot him with arrows. The stone-horses we found so troublesome that we endeavored to exchange them for either mares or geldings ; but though we offered two for one, the Indians were unwill- ing *o barter. It was therefo'-e determined to castrate them ; and being desirous of ascertaining the be . method of performing this operation, two were gelded in the usual manner, while one of the natives tried the experiment in the Indian way, which he assured us v/as much the better plan, without tying the string of the stone, but carefully serening the string clean and separating it from the adjoining veins before cutting it. All the horses recovered ; but we after- ward found that those on which the Indian mode had been tried, though they bled more profusely at first neither swelled nor appeared to suffer as much as the others, and recovered sooner ; so that we are fully persuaded that the Indian method is preferable to our own. Maj/ ist/i. As we shall now be compelled to pass some time in this neighborhood, a number of hunters' were sent * " Reubin Fields in surching for his horse saw a large bear at no great dis- tance from camp. Several men went in pursuit of the bear : they followed his trail a considerable distance, but could not come up with him. Labuishe and Shannon set out with a view to establish a hunting-camp and continuing several days ; two others accompanied them in order to bring in the three bears which Labuish had killed. Drewyer and Cruzatte were sent up the river ; Sheilds R. Fields and Willard hunted in the hills near camp," Lewis K 133. il:.t: Icav- INDIAN METHOD OF DECOYING GAME. IOI3 different directions, and the rest were employed in com- pleting the camp. From this labor, however, we exempted five of the men, two of whom are afflicted with colic, the others complaining of violent pains in the head ; all which are occasioned, we presume, by the diet of roots to which the men have recently been confined. We secured the baggage with a shelter of grass and made a kind of bower of the under part of an old sail, the leathern tent being now too rotten for use,, while the men formed very comfortable huts in the shape of an awning of a wagon, by means of willow- poles and grass. Tunnachemootoolt and his young men left {p. 2go) us this morning on their way home ; and soon after we were visited by a party of 14 Indians on horseback, srmed with bows and arrows, going on a hunting-excursion. Their chief game is deer, and wherever the ground will per- mit the favorite hunt is on horseback ; but in the wood- lands, where this is impracticable, they make use of a decoy. This consists of the skin of the head and the upper part of the neck of the deer, kept in its natural shape by a frame of small sticks on the inside. As soon as the hunter perceives a deer he conceals himself, and with his hand moves the decoy so as to represent a real deer in the act of feeding, which is done so naturally that the game is seduced within reach of his arrows.' We also exercised our horses by driving them together, so as to accustom them to each other, and incline them the less to separate. The next morning, May \6th, an Indian returned with one of them, which had strayed away in the night to a considerable distance— an instance of integrity and kindness by no means singular among the Chopunnish. Hohastilpilp, with the rest of the ° Such decoying of game is practiceu by various Indians, as by the Apaches and others in Arizona. There I have seen the hunters wear the stuffed head of an antelope, and throw ove- their shoulders a dressed hide of the same, daubed with colored earth in imitation of the natural color of the animal ; then, stooping or going on all-fours, they counterfeited the natural appearance of the game so exactly as to be very deceptive at a little distance. #1.. nil' IOI4 HUNTING ON COLLINS' CREEK. natives, left us to-day. The hunters who have as yet come in brought nothing except a few pheasants, so that we still place our chief reliance on the mush made of roots, among which cows and quamash are the principal ones ; with these we use a small onion, which grows in great abundance, and which corrects any bad effects they may have on the stomach. The cows IPeuccdanum cons] and quamash incline to produce flatulency ; to obviate which we employ a kind of fennel," called by the Shoshonees yearhah, resembling anniseed [anise-seed] in flavor, and a very agreeable food. In the course of the day two other hunters [Drewyer and CruzattcJ brought in a dee/. The game, they said, was scarce ; but they [i. c, Drewyer] had wounded three bears as white as sheep. The hunters who left us yesterday also came in to-night, with information that at the distance of five or six miles [northward] they attempted to cross Collins" creek to the other side, where game is {p. 2gi) most abundant, but that they could not ford it with their horses, on account of its depth and the rapidity of the current. May \-jth. It rained during the greater part of the night, and our flimsy covering being insufficient for our protection, we lay in the water most of the time. What was more unlucky, our chronometer became wet, and in consequence somewhat rusty ; but by care we hope to restore it. The rain continued nearly the whole day ; on the high plains the snow is falling, and already two or three inches in depth. The bad v/eather confined us to camp and kept the Indians from us ; so that, for the first time since we left the narrows of the Columbia, a day has passed without our being visited by any of the natives. • Canngairdneri, commonly called " yamp," as noted on p. 552, q. v. ' A statement of importance as collateral evidence for the identification of Collins' creek with the Nahwah river or Lo Lo Fork of the Kooskooskee, as brretofore made upon other data. There always used to be a sort of cloud o- ;r the title of this stream ; but that has now been fully cleared up. See p. (.^/X , and note there. t^^" THE COUNTRY ABOUT CAMP CHOPUNNISH. 1015 The count.y along the Rocky' mountains, for several hun- dred miles m length and about 50 in width, is a high, level plam, ,n all its parts extremely fertile, and in many places covered with a growth of tall long-leaved pine. This plain IS chiefly interrupted near the streams of water, where the hills are steep and lofty ; ' but the soil is good, being unin- cumbered by much stone and possessing more timber than the level country. Under shelter of these hills, the bottom- lands skirt the margin of the rivers, and though narrow and confined, are still fertile and rarely inundated. Nearly the whole of this widespread tract is covered with a profusion of grass and plants, which are at this time as high as the knee. Among these are a variety of esculent plants and roots, acquired without much difficulty, and yielding not only a nutritious but a very agreeable food. The air is pure and dry ; the climate is quite as mild as, if not milder than, ^that of] the same parallels of latitude in the Atlantic btates, and must be equally healthy ; for all the disorders which we have witnessed may fairly be imputed more to the nature of the diet than to any intemperance of climate. ■ Ihis general observation is of course to be qualified, since m tne same tract of country the degrees of the combination of heat and cold obey the influence of situa- (/. 202) tion Thus the rains of the low grounds near our camp are snows iLlf^^i V' """"'^ "'''!.' ^''' '' "°*'' '^'' ''' '°"S as the Expedition is in Idaho, Rocky mountains means the Bitter-root and collateral ranges, as our aut ors never specified these by name, but treated as " Rocky " all tht vertebr.^ in the spinal column of the continent. Their locutions concerning the several ranges they crossed may be roundly reduced to-i. Black hills: everything mountamous east of the Rockies. 2. Rocky mountains : all the other mountain tZel\TcT; ■''''':'' '" ""^^^^ ■" '''''''' ^°"^'^''-^^- 3- Mountains between the Columbian plains and Columbian valley, i. ... the Cascade range 4 Mountains between the Columbia valley and the Pacific, .'. .., the Coast range loftvhil"T"'M ' '" '"'"• ^""' °' '^^ ^"""'^y ri- into •• steep and lofty hills along the water-courses, but that the plains are there rifted into pre- ci.>i ous crevasses or cailons. Such formations are highly characteristic of the f eneral area drained by the Snake river system. Some of these vast chasms along the Snake itself and Salmon river, are second in formidable magZde only to the Graiul CafSon of the Colorado. agnituae t ') il lifc-'w^''--*-«wi "■ ! r t 1 "I 1 ;i i. i 1 ill H i I0l6 CHARACTERISTICS OF THE CHOPUNNISH. in the high plains ; the sun shines with intense heat in the confined bottoms, but the plains enjoy a much colder air, and the vegetation is there retarded at least 1 5 days, while at the foot of the mountains the snows ate still many feet in depth ; so that within 20 miles of our camp we observe the rigors of winter cold, the cool air of spring, and the oppres- sive heat of midsummer. Even on the plains, however, where the snow has fallen, it seems to do but little injury to the grass and other plants, which, though apparently tender and susceptible, are still blooming at the height of nearly 18 inches through the snow. In short, this district affords many advantages to settlers, and if properly cultivated, would yield every object necessary for the subsistence and comfort of civilized man. The Chopunnish themselves are in general, stout, well formed, and active ; they have high, and many of them aqui- line, noses ; the general appearance of the face is cheerful and agreeable, though \yithout any indication of gayety and mirth. Like most Indians, they extract their beards ; but the women only pluck the hair from the rest of the body. That of the men is very often suffered to grow, nor does there appear to be any natural deficiency in that respect ; for we observe several men who, had they adopted the practice of shaving, would have been as well supplied as our- selves. The dress of both sexes resembles that of the Sho- shonees, and consists of a long shirt reaching to the thigh, •eggings as high as the waist, moccasins, and robes— all of which are formed of skins. Their ornaments are beads, shells, and pieces of brass attached to different parts of the dress, or tied around the arms, neck, wrists, and over the shoulders; to these are added pearls "* and beads suspended from the ears, and a single shell of wampum through the nose. The head-dress '» Bits of mother-of-pearl, the shell of the abalone, most probably ; perhaps, however, an inferior sort of pearls from a kind of pearl-mussel, Margaritana margaritifera, which could be procured from the Indians of the lower Columbia. The wampum here in mention is a tooth-shell of Dentalium or a related genus. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE CHOPUNNISH. JOT/ of the men is a bandeau of fox or otter-skin, either with or without the fur, and sometimes an ornament tied to a (A ^9J) plait of hair, faUing from the crown of the head • that of the women is a cap without a rim, formed of bear- grass and cedar-bark; while the hair itself, of both sexes falls in two rows down the front of the body. Collars of bears claws are also common. But the personal ornament most esteemed is a sort of breastplate, formed of a strip of otter-skin nix inches wide, cut out of the whole length of the back of the animal, including the head ; this being dressed with the hair on, a hole is made at the upper end, through which the head of the wearer is placed, and the skin hangs m front with the tail reaching below the knee, ornamented with pieces of pearl, red cloth, and wampum or. in short, any other fanciful decoration. Tippets also are occasionally worn. That of Hohastilpilp was formed of human scalps and adorned with the thumbs and fingers of several men slain by him in battle. The Chopunnish are among the most amiable men we have seen. Their character is placid and gentle, rarely moved to passion, yet not often enlivened by gayety Their amusements consist in running races and shooting with arrows at a target ; they partake also of the great and pre- vailing vice of gambling. They are, however, by no means so much attached to baubles as the generality of Indians but are anxious to obtain articles of utility, such as knives' tomahawks, kettles, blankets, and awls for [making] mocca- sins They have also suffered so much from the superiority of their enemies that they are equally desirous of procuring arms and ammunition, which they are gradually acquiring • for the band of Tunnachemootoolt have already six guns' which they acquired from the Minnetarees. The Chopunnish bury their dead in sepulchers formed of boards, constructed like the roof of a house. The bodies are rolled in skins and laid one over another, separated by a board only, both above and below. We have sometimes seen their dead bu< . 1 m wooden boxes, and rolled in skins *l III f i| I 'I \ : i >'i I 15 ,i I ioi8 REPTILES OF THE VICINITY. li ■I t ■i ' m\ iil in the manner abov^e mentioned. They sacrifice their horses, (/>. 2p4) canoes, and every other species of property to their dead ; the bones of many horses are seen lying round their sepulchers. Among the reptiles common to this country are the two species of innocent snakes already described and the rattle- snake, which last is of the same species {Crotalus conflucnUis] as that of the Missouri, and though abundant here, is the only poisonous snake we have seen between the Pacific and the Missouri. Besides these there are the common black lizard [^Sccloporus sp.] and the horned lizard. Of frogs there are several kinds, such as the small green tree-frog ^Hyla regilla\ ; the small frcg [Chorophilus triscriatiis, like one which is] common in the United States, which sings in the spring of the year ; a species of frog [toad, Biifo coluinbiensis\ frequenting the water, much larger than the bullfrog, and in shape between the delicate length of the bullfrog and the shorter and less graceful form of the toad, like which last, however, its body is covered with little pustules, or lumps.' We have never heard it make a noise of any kind. Neither the toad {^Bufo americantis\ bullfrog IRana catcsbiana], moccasin \Ancistrodon piscivorus\ nor copperhead [^. con- tortrix] is to be found here. Captain Lewis killed a snake [Pityop/its sp.] near the camp 47 inches in length and much the color of the rattlesnake ; no poisonous tooth [fang] was to be found ; it had 218 scuta [gastrosteges] on the abdomen, and 59 squama [urosteges], or half-formed scuta, on the tail i the eye was cf moderate size, the iris dark yellowish-browni and the pupil black ; there was nothing remarkable in the form of the head, which was not so wide across the jaws as that of the poisonous class of snakes usually is. There is a species of lizard, which we have called the horned lizard [Phrynosoma douglasi\ about the size of and much resembling in figure the ordinary black lizard. The belly is, notwithstanding, broader, the tail shorter, and the action much slower than the ordinary lizard. It crawls like the toad, and is of a brown color, interspersed with yellow- MWV- I l< t HORNED LIZARD— VARIOUS INSECTS. 1019 ish-brown spots. It is covered with minute shells fscales] interspersed with little horny projections like prickles on the upper part of the body. The belly and throat resemble the frog s and are of a light yellowish- (/. ^pj) brown ; the edge of the belly is regularly beset with horny projec tions, which give both edges a serrate figure. The eye is small and of a dark color. Above and behind the eyes are several projections of bone [horn], which, being armed at the extremities with a firm black substance, have the appearance of horns sprouting from the head ; [this] has induced us to call it the horned lizard. These animals are found m great abundance in the sandy parts of the plains and after a shower of rain are seen basking in the sun' For the greatest part of the time they are concealed in u t. y ^'^ ^""""^ '" Sr^""^ numbers on the banks of the Missouri, and in the plains through which we have passed above the Wollawollahs. [Compare p. 899.] Most of the insects common to [or resembling those of] the United States are seen in this country: such as the but- terfly, the common house-fly [Musca domestica\ the blowing- fly VLucilia ^^w, or a related species], the horse-fly iTabanus atratus ?\ except one species of it, the gold-colored ear-fly IChrysops sp.], the place of which is supplied by a fly of a brown color, which attaches itself to the same part of the • horse and is equally troublesome. There are likewise nearly all the vuneties of beetles known in the Atlantic States except the large cow-beetle {Copris carolina\ and the black beetle commonly called the tumble-bug ICanthon Icevis]. Neither the hornet, the wasp, nor the yellow-jacket inhabits this part of the country; but there is an insect \_Vespa dia- bohca^ resembling the last of these, though much larger which ,s very numerous, particularly in the Rocky mountains and on the waters of the Columbia ; the body and abdomen are yellow, with transverse circles of black ; the head is black, and the wings, which are four in number, are of a dark brown color. Their nests are built in the ground and resemble that of the hornet, with an outer covering to the comb ( ! l\ \ ' ■■! I i: L II iii 11 ' _ J f' I I J t *; til I020 CIIOPUNNISII FISHERY— QUAMASII GROUNDS. These insects are fierce and sting very severely, so that we found them very troublesome in frightening our horses as we passed the mountains. The silkworm [Attacus poly, phcmus or cccropia] is also found here, as well as the humble- bee iBombusl though the honey-bee ^Apis mdlifica\ is not (/. 2g6) May \'6tk. Twelve hunters set out this morning after bear, which are now our chief dependence ; but as they are now ferocious, the hunters henceforward never go except in pairs. Soon after they left us, a party of Chopunnish erected a hut on the opposite side of the river in order to watch for salmon, which are expected to arrive every day. For this purpose they have constructed with sticks a kind of wharf, projecting about ten feet into the river and three feet above its surface, on the extremity of which one of the fishermen exercised himself with a scooping-net, similar to that used in our country ; but after several hours' labor he was unsuccessful. In the course of the morning three Indians called at our camp and told us that they had been hunting near the place where we met the Chopunnish last autumn, and which is called by them the Quamash grounds ; '» but after roaming about for several days had killed nothing. We gave them a small piece of meat, which they said they would keep for their small children, who they said were very hungry, and then, after smoking, took leave of us Some of our hunters [Drewyer, J. and R. Fields, and Lepage] returned almost equally unsuccessful. They had gone over the whole country between Collins' creek and the Kooskoos- kee, to their junction, a distance of ten miles, without seeing either deer or bear, and at last brought in a single hawk and a salmon dropped by an eagle. This last was not in itself considerable, but gave us hopes of soon seeing that fish in the river, an event which we ardently desire ; for though the " Here indicating the low country first reached by Captain Clark Sept. 20th when^he was leading the Expedition out of the mountains : see p. 603, and note , p. 602. But several widely separated spots where camass grew are called • Quamash flats " and " Quamash glades " in the course of the narrative Three such places are so lettered on Clark's map, 100 miles and more apart. Wf'f t f SICK-CALL AT CAMP CHOPUNNISH. I02I rapid rise of the river denotes a great decrease of snow on the mountains, yet we shall not be able to leave our camp for some time." May x^th. After a cold, rainy night, during a greater part of which we lay in the water, the weather became fair- we then sent some men [Hall, Potts, Wiser, Thompson, and * Charbono "] to a village above us, on the opposite side to purchase some roots. They carried with them for this purpose a small collection of alls fawls], knitting-pins, and armbands, with which they obtained several bushels of the root of cows, and some bread of the same mate- {p. 297) rial They were followed, too, by a train of invalids from the vil- lage [u e., Thompson soon returned with four men, eight women, and a child], who came to ask for our assistance. The men were generally afflicted with sore eyes ; but the women had besides this a variety of other disorders, chiefly rheumatic, a violent pain and weakness in the loins, which is a common complaint among them ; one of them seemed much dejected, and as we thought, from the account of her disease, hysterical. We gave her 30 drops of laudanum, and after administering eye-water, rubbing the rheumatic patients with volatile liniment, and giving cathartics to others, they all thought themselves much relieved and re- turned highly satisfied to the village. We [J. and R. Fields] were fortunate enough to retake [that] one of the horses on which we [Captain Lewis] had crossed the Rocky mountains in the autumn, and which had become almost wild since that time. May 20th. Again it rained during the night and the greater part of this day. Our hunters were out in different directions; but though they saw a bear and a deer or two, they only killed one of the latter, which proved to be of the mule-deer species." '» " I am pleased at finding the river rise so rapidly; it no doubt is attributeable to the melting snows of the mountains ; that icy barier which separates me from my friends and Country, from all which makes life esteemable.-patience patience—," Lewis K 138. "According to Lewis K 141, this date, both the captains lay in the wet all ■J ,f ' ; ill hi; I02. Mi VARIOUS OCCUPATIONS— COWS-ROOTS. ''ay 2isf. Finding the rain still conti ragged sail tent and formed a hut grass. The rest of th nue wc left our e mc with willovv-polcs and n were occupied in building a canoe for present use, as the Indians promise to give us a horse for it when we leave them. We received nothing from our hunters except a single sand-hill crane [Cms canadcnsisl which species is veiy abundant in this neighborhood, and consumed at dinner the last morsel of meat we had. As there seems but little probability of our procuring a stock of dried meat, and fish is as yet an uncertain resource, we made a division of all our stock of merchandise, so as to enable the men to purchase a store of roots and bread for the mountains. We might ourselves collect these roots, but as there are several species of [water-] hemlock " growing among the cows \_Peuccdamim cous\ difficult to be distin- guished from that plant, we are afraid to suffer the men to collect them, lest the party be poisoned {p. 298) by mistak- ing them. On parceling out the stores, the scock of each man was found to consist of only one awl and one knitting. night, their covering being insufficient. Drewyer and the brothers Fields set out on a hunt towarU the mountains. Shannon and Colter came in unsuccess- ful ; they had wounded a bear and a deer yesterday, but night coming on were unable to procure them, and a snow-fall obliterated their tracks. It was Labiche who killed the mule-deer. Yesterday he had left Cruzatte and Collins on the creek named for the latter, where they were to await his return ; late this even- ing he set out with Lepage to join them, and resume the hunt in the morning Fraz.er returned at 5 p. m. with a good stock of eatables he had bought at the village for brass buttons ; and the men. observing how fond the Indians are of these articles, are now cutting them off their clothes to trade for bread of cows The plant which the authors have here in mind is the common cowbane OcHta maculata, a poisonous umbelliferous plant of wide distribution in the United States, where it is also known as water-hemlock and poison-hemlock The reference is useful in identifying "cows" as Peucedanum cous-ti plant so similar to this that the two might be confounded with disastrous results The European water-hemlock is Cicuta virosa. The true hemlock of Eurasiatic coun- tries IS another umbellifer, Conium maculatum, also poisonous. The juice which Socrates is said to have drunk to his death was one of these two. most likely the last-named. Hemlock as applied to a coniferous tree means the hemlock-spruce, or American fir, Tsuga canadensis, whose sprays are likened to the dissected foliage of th-.' umbelliferous Conium. For the identification of cows or cous, see note "», p. 999. i^:* »t INCIDENTS OF CAMP LIFE. pin, half an 1023 )f ^unce 01 vermi.._ ^ ,, ^, ,_, ^_,,_^ of thread, and about a yard of ribbon-a slender means of bartering for our subsistence ; but the men have been so much accustomed to privations that now neither the want of meat nor the scanty funds of the party excites the least anxiety among them. May 22d. We availed ourselves of the fair weather to dry our baggage and store of roots ; and being still without meat, killed one of our colts, intending to reserve the other three for the mountains. In the afternoon we were amused by a large party of Indians, on the opposite side of the river, hunting on horseback. After riding at full speed down the steep hills, they at last drove a deer into the river where we shot it ; two Indians immediately pursued it ok a raft and took it. Several hunters,' who had gone to a considerable distance near the mountains, returned with hvc deer They had purchased also two red salmon-trout, which the Indians say remain in this river during the greater part of the winter, but are not good at this season, as it in fact appeared, for they were very meager The salmon, we understand, have now arrived at no great dis- tance, in Lewis' river ; but some days will yet elapse before they come up to this place. This, as well as the scarcity of game, made us wish to remove lower down ; but on examination we found that there war no place in that "The brothers Fields, Drewyer, Gibson, and Shields. The text is very brief m he narrative at Camp Chopunnish ; the codex has probably three times as much to say of mc.dents and occupations-the latter chiefly hunting and trading There was also a good deal of sickness in camp, owing to fhe diet.^ Sacajawea' baby was teeth.ng and had cholera infantum and the mumps, which kejt both captams • wa k.ng the floor." so to speak, all night. Captain Lewis' fine horse so recently gelded managed to hitch his lariat about the parts, and injured hm! June 2d. There are also some singularly regular entries of the men (privates) who were each day "permitted" to go to the village, and were not inquTred about. Most probably the Chopunnish tribe did not deteriorate under the ci'r^um- St 11 hv.ng about twenty years ago. are a part of the unwritten history of the Expe- dition. The paternal name in this case is spelled with five letters in the codex I ^1 £1. t t fl 1024 KMDARRASSING MEDICAL REPUTATION. I '■ 1- I,'' direction calculated for a camp, and therefore resolved to remain in our present position. Some uneasiness has been excited by a report that two nights ago a party of Sho- shonees had surrounded a Chopunnish house, on the south side of Lewis' river; though the inhabitants, having dis- covered their intentions, had escaped without injury. Ma^ 2^(/." The hunters were sent out to make a last effort to procure provisions ; but after examining the whole country between Collins' creek and the Kooskooskee, they (/>. 2gg) found nothing except a few pheasants of the dark brown kind [see p. 872J. In the meantime we were visited by four Indians, who had come from a village on Lewis' river, at the distance of two days' ride, for the purpose of procuring a little eye-water. The extent of our medical fame is not a little troublesome ; but we rejoice at any circumstance which enables us to reliev<» these poor crea- tures, and therefore willingly washed their eyos, after which they returned home. May 24th. This proved the warmest day we have had since our arrival here. Some o^ our men visited the village of Broken-arm, and exchanged some awls, which they had made of the links of a small chain belonging to one of their steel traps, for a plentiful supply of roots. Besides administering medical relief to the Indians we are obliged to devote much of our time to the care of our own invalids. The child of Sacajawea is very unwell ; and with one of the men [Bratton] we have ventured an experi- ment of a very robust nature. He has been for some time sick, but has now recovered his flesh, eats heartily, and digests well, but has so great a weakness in the loins that he cannot walk or even sit upright without extreme pniln. After we had in vain exhausted the resources of our \ of the hunters [Shields] mentioned that he had known persons in similar situations to be restored by violent sweats, and at " Codex K ends at this date on p. 147, so far as the journal is concerned, though then- are a few more folios of a meteorological register, etc. The Biddle .-ai-ajive continues directly with Lewis L. HEROIC HYDROPATHY. 1025 patient, we permitted the remedy to be rpose a hole about four feet deep and the request of the applied. For this p three in diameter wis dug in the earth, and heated well by a large fire in the bottom of it. The fire was then taken out, and an arch formed over the hole by means of willow-poles, and covered with several blankets so as to make a perfect awning. The patient being stripped naked, was seated under this on a bench, with a piece of board for his feet, and with a jug of water sprinkled the bottom and sides of the hole, so as to keep up as Iiot a steam as he could bear. After remaining 20 minutes in this situ- ation, he was taken out, immediately plunged twice in cold water, and brought back (/. joo) to the hole, where he resumed the vapor bath. During all this time he drank copiously a strong infusion of horse-mint, which was used as a substitute for scncca-root, which our informant said he had seen employed on these occasions, but of which there is none in this country. At the end of three-quarters of an hour he was again withdrawn from the hole, carefully wrapped, and suffered to cool gradually. This operation was performed yesterday ; this morning he walked about and is nearly free from pain. About 1 1 o'clock a canoe ar- rived with three Indians, one of whom was the poor creature who had lost the use of his limbs, and for whose recovery the natives seem very anxious, as he is a chief of consid- erable rank among them. His situation is beyond the reach of our skill." He complains of no pain in any pecu- liar limb, and we therefore think his disorder cannot be rheumatic, as his limbs would have been more diminished if his disease had been a paralytic affection. VVe had already ascribed it to his diet of roots, and had recom- mended his living on fish and flesh, and using the cold bath every morning, with a dose of cream of tartar or flowers of sulphur every third day. These prescriptions seem to have been of little avail, but as he thinks himself " '' I am confident that this would be an excellent subject for electricity and much regret that I have it not in my power to supply it." Lewis L 3. n ¥ il If J 1 li UJ' 1026 HUNTING-TRIP TO AMERICAN RIVER. somewhat better for them, we concealed our ignorance by- giving hm a few drops of laudanum and a little portable soup, with a promise of sweating hinr.., as we had done our own man. On attempting it, however, in the morning, Maj/ 25//!, we found that he was too weak to sit up or be supported in the hole. We therefore told the Indians that we knew of no other remedy except frequent perspi- rations in their own sweat-houses, accompanied by drink- ing large quantities of the decoction of horse-mint, which we pointed out to them. Three hunters set out to hunt toward Quamash flats [of p. 603], if they could pass Collins' creek. Others crossed the river for the same purpose, and one of the men was sent to a village on the opposite side, about eight miles above us. Nearly all the inhabitants were either hunting, digging roots, or (p.joi) fishing in Lewis' river, from which they had brought several fine salmon. In the course of the day some of our hunters wounded a female bear with two cubs, one of which was v/hite and the other perfectly black. The Indians who accompanied the sick chief are so anxious for his safety that they remained with us all night ; and in the morning, May 26th, when we gave him some cream of tartar and portable soup, with directions how they were to treat him, they still lingered about us in hopes we might do something effectual, though we desired them to take him home. The hunters [J. and R. Fields] sent out yesterday returned with Hohastilpilp and a number of inferior chiefs and warriors. They passed [crossed] Commearp creek at the distance of i ^ miles, and a larger creek three miles beyond ; they then went on [southward] till they were stopped by a large creek " ten miles above camp, \i. e., higher up the '» This is very satisfactory as to the distance from camp assigned, and yields a ready identification. This " large c.ek," too large for the hunters to cross, is the South fork of the Kooskooskee, otherwise known as American river, which, coming almost due north through a chasm in Mt. Idaho, joins the main or M; 'die fork of the Kooskooskee, from the east, at a point about or within ten miles from Camp Chopunnish. On American river, five or six miles above its MODEL DErORTMENT OF HOHASTILPILP. 1027 Kooskooskee], and finding it too deep and rapid to pass they returned home. On their way they stopped at a village four miles up the second creek, which we have never visited, and where they purchased bread and roots on very moderate terms; an article of intelligence very pleasing at the present moment, when our stock of meat is again ex- hausted. We still have, however, agreeable prospects ; for the river is rising last, as the snows visibly diminish, and we saw a salmon in the river to-day. We also completed our canoe [and put her in the water; she appears to answer very well, ana will carry about 12 persons, Lewis L 5. May 27th. The horse which the Indians gave us some time ago had gone astray ; but in our present dearth of pro- visions we searched for him and killed him. Observing that we were in want of food, Hohastilpilp informed us that most of the horses which we saw running at large belonged to him or his people, and requested that whenever we wished any meat we would make use of them without restraint. We have, indeed, on more than one occasion, had to admire the generosity of this Indian, whose conduct preserts a model of what is due to strangers in distress."' A party was sent to {p. J02) the village discovered yesterday, and returned with a large supply of bread and roots. Sergeant Ordway and two men were also dispatched to Lewis' [Snake] river, about half a day's ride to the south, where we mouth, was fought the well-remembered battle of July nth and 12th, 1877 and under Mt. Idaho was established Camp Howard, named for General Oliver O Howard, who conducted the Nez-perce campaign. But I am entirely at a loss for the " larger [than Commearp] creek" of the text ; none of the maps before me yields even a conjecture as to what f/iis stream can be. '9 These Indians have excited admiration from that day to this for various virtues that are becoming in men, and our soldiers in the Nez-perce war found another Hohastilpilp in the celebrated chief Joseph. A good story, possibly with some foundation in fact, is told of an Indian who exhibited another "model of what is due to strangers in distress." In the thick of the fight a wounded soldier suddenly found a Nez-perce bending over him, as he supposed to dispatch him and lift his hair. His hair naturally rose of its own motion in this extremity of terror ; observing which, the Indian remarked ; " 0 ! bother your scalp— I don't want that ; fork over your ammunition." ;| I ii ii 1- : /.; f ■I I 1028 h X i ' ( -' \: ■P i - ( ■■ 1 f. 1, THERAPEUTICAL DIAPHORESIS. expected to obtain salmon, which are said to be very abun- dant at that place. The three men who had attempted to go to the Quamash flats returned with five deer ; but though they had proceeded some distance up ColHns' creek, it con- tmued too deep for them to cross. The Indians who accom- panied the chief were so anxious to have the operation of sweating him performed under our inspection that we deter- mined to gratify them by making a second attempt. The hole was therefore enlarged, and the father of the chief, a very good-looking old man, went in with him and held him in a proper position. This strong evidence of feeling is directly opposed to the received opinion of the insensibility of savages, nor are we less struck by the kindness and attention paid to the sick man by those who are unconnected with him ; which is the more surprising, as the long illness of three years might be supposed to have exhausted their sympathy. We could not produce as complete a perspira- tion as we desired ; after he was taken out he complained of suffering considerable pain, which we relieved with a few drops of laudanum, and he then rested well. The next morning, May 28^/1," he was able to use his arms ; he feels better than he has done for many months, and sat up during the greater part of the day. We sent to the village of Tunnachemootoolt for bread and roots, and a party of hunters set out to hunt up a creek "At this date Clark Q 126-132 has two long ornithological descriptions One of these, pp. 126-129, is of Picicorvus columbianus, elsewhere cited in sub- stance. The other is more important, for it has never been used, and brines a new bird into the results of the Expedition. " Our hunters broight us a £4 hooting owl. etc., differing from those of the United States, with long silky plumage of a dark iron-gray, etc., the head " i Foot 10 Inches" in circumfer- ence, with a remarkable facial disk, etc., pp. 129-132. This is clearly the great gray owl, Scoiiaptex cinerea, better known as Syrniuni cinereum Both these descriptions are also in Lewis L ro. n. Under date of May 27th Clark O 122-124, and Lewis L 7, 8, have the long description of the burrowing-squirrel Spermophilus columhanm, which should have been brought in here as this is the locality where the animal was first noticed. The same may be said of other zoological matter in the Chopunnish codices. Ik \l S. EFFICACY OF THE SUD/TORIUM. 1029 rAmerican river] about eight miles above us. In the even ing another party, who had been so fortunate as to find a Zi "''■^f ,^°"'"f ^^^^k, returned from the Quamash flats with eight deer, of which they saw great numbers, though there were but few bears. Having now a tolerable stock of meat, we were occupied during the following day, y.joj) May 2gi/i, in various engagements in 'the camp. The Indian chief is still rapidly recovering, and for the first time during the last twelve months had strength enough to wash his face. Wc had intended to repeat the sweaHng to-day, but as the weather was cloudy, with occasional rain iiighly efficacious ; for our own man [Bratton], on whom the experiment was firat made, is recovering his strength very fast, and the restoration of the chief is wonderful. He con- tinued to improve, and on the following day, MayiothJ' after a very violent sweating, was able to move one of his legs and thighs, and some of his toes ; the fingers and arms being almost entirely restored to their former rfu T ^^'^'^^ "^"'^ '^"^ °"^ ^' "^"^' to hunt and trade with the Indians. Among others, two of the men, who had Tiot yet exchanged their stock of merchandise for roots crossed the river for that purpose in our boat. But as the^ reached the opposite shore, the violence of the current drove the boat broadside against some trees ; she immedi- ately filled and went to the bottom. With difficulty one of die men [Potts] was saved, but the boat itself, with three blankets, a blanket-coat, and their small pittance of merchan- t>».jo<5)at length succeeded ; they consented to surrender the tomahawk on receiving two " A notable statement. For what a moose is, as different from an elk. see note **, p. 845. Here Lewis and Clark lead all the naturalists, as usual ; for the American moose, A/res machlis americanus or A. americanus, had no scientific standing in their day. Nor has the fact here stated of its inhabiting Idaho been given due weight. I hardly know where to turn for another Idahoan reference till i860, when Dr. Geo. Suckley (P.R.R. Rep. XH. pt. ii, p. 133) speaks of a pair of moose-horns procured " in the most eastern part of Washington territory near the St. Mary's valley," i. e., in Idaho, not far from Camp Chopunn-.sh ! The U. S. National Museum also has antlers taken by Dr. C. H, Merriam in 1872 in Idaho near the Wyoming border (Fauna iv^o. 5, rSor, p. 79). Moose is an Algonkin word, found also as moosis, tnttsu, mttswa, mouswah, etc., said to mean " wood-eater." The animal is the orignal of French naturalists. " Heretofore called the Pawnashte : see p. 622. We presently hear more of this river, when Sergeant Ordway reports his reconnoissance : see on. The sergeant and his party were the first white men who ever saw Salmon river about its mouth, as Captain Clark and his men were the first to see it at and below the confluence of the Lemhi. Sergeant Ordway should be fully recognized in this matter of exploring about the month of Salmon river. He went some 70 miles and back on this trip— thus quite as far as Captain Claik did on upper reaches of the river, though the bearing of the Ordway scout upon the course of the Expedition obviously had less weight. «♦ Name here first in the text without the slightest indication of what it means : but see note '•, p. 994, where we picked the name out of the codex as indicating m ^.i 1 M i V. SERGEANT ORDWAY'S SCOUT AND REPORT. 1033 Strands of beads and a handkerchief from Drewyer and from each of the chiefs a horse, to be killed at' the funeral of the deceased, according to the custom of the country. Soon after their return, Sergeant Ordway and his party, [Frazier and Wiser] for whose safety we had become extremely anxious, came home from Lewis' river, with some roots of cows and 17 salmon. The distance, however from which they were brought was so great that most of the fish were nearly spoiled ; but such as continued sound were extremely delicious, the flesh being of a fine rose-color with a small mixture of yellow, and so fat that they were cooked very well without the addition of any oil or grease. When they set out May 27th, they hoped to reach the salmon-fishery in the course of that day; but the route by which the guides led them was so circuitous that they rode 70 miles before they reached their place of destination, in the evening of the 29th. After going [west] for 20 miles up Commearp creek, through an open plain, broken only by the hills and timber along this creek, they then entered a high irregular, mountainous country, the soil of which was fertile and well supplied with pine. Without stopping to hunt, though they saw great quantities of deer and some of the bighorn, they hastened [about southwest] for 30 miles across this district to the Tommanamah, or east branch of Lewis' river; and not finding any salmon, descended that stream [southerly] for 20 miles, to the fishery at a short distance below its junction with the south branch [main Snake river]. Jack's creek. Respecting this and its mate, Big C^.flon creek. I may observe further, that Stevens' large map lays down a pair of streams, lettered Pepuennemah and Ahleah, which may be compared with Jack's and Big Caflon, respectively But if they are the same, they are far out of proper position, being run into the Ivooskooskee from the S. W.. above and not below the mouth of the Chopunnish river or North fork. What makes me imagine that they may represent Jack's and Big Cation, is, that they are in about the right relative position to each other and that no such streams do fall into the Kooskooskee from the S.W. or W.' between the Chopunnish river and Commearp (Stevens' Komeyer) creek.' f. ,..-,. W ■ n 'If ' ' ■s ]■ • 1034 TOMMANAMAH RIVER— INDIAN EXPRESS. Both these forks appear to come from or enter a mountain- ous country. The Tommanamah itself, they said, was about 150 yards wide; its banks, for the most part, were formed of solid perpendicular rocks, rising to a great height ; as they passed along some of its hills they found that the snow had not yet disappeared, and the grass was just springing up. During its whole course it presented one {p. joy) continued rapid, till at the fishery itself, where the river widens to the space of 200 yards, the rapid is nearly as considerable as the great rapids of the Columbia. Here the Indians have erected a large house of split timber, 150 feet long and 35 feet wide, with a flat roof; at this season it is much resorted to by the men, while the women are employed in collecting roots. After remaining a day and purchasing some fish, they returned home. /une T,d. Finding that the salmon have not yet appeared along the shores, as the Indians assured us they would in a few days, and that all the salmon which they themselves use are obtained from Lewis' river, we began to lose our hopes of subsisting on them. We are too poor, and at too great a distance from Lewis' river, to purchase fish at that place, and it is not probable that the river will fall sufficiently for us to take them before we leave this place. Our Indian friends sent an express to-day over the mountains to Traveler's- rest [creek], in order to procure intelligence from the Oot- lashoots, a band of [Tushepaw] Flatheads who wintered on the east side of the mountains, and the same band which we first met on that river [Sept. 4th]. As the route was deemed practicable for this express, we also proposed setting out ; but the Indians dissuaded us from attempting it, as many of the creeks, they said, were still too deep to be forded, the roads very deep and slippery, and there was no grass as yet for our horses ; but [said that] in 12 or 14 days we should no longer meet with the same obstacles. We therefore deter- mined to set out in a few days for Quamash flats, 11 order to lay in a store of provisions, so as to cross the mountains about the middle of the month. VARIOUS GRASSES— LOUISIANA TANAGER. 1035 [June 4th and 5//^."] For the two following days we con- tinued hunting in our own neighborhood, and by means of our own exertions, and trading with the Indians for trifling articles, succeeded in procuring as much bread and roots, besides other food, as will enable us to subsist during the passage of the moun- {p. 308) tains. The old chief in the meantime gradually recovered the use of his limbs, and our own man [Bratton] was nearly restored to his former health. The Indians who had been with us returned, and invited us to their village on the following day, /utie6th,'"' to give us their final answer to a number of pro- posals which we had made to them. Neeshnepahkeeook then informed us that they could not accompany us, as we wished, to the Missouri ; but that in the latter end of the summer they meant to cross the mountains and spend the winter to the eastward. We had also requested some of their young men to go with us, so as to effect a reconcilia- " Clark Q 146, June 5th, 1806, has ; " The corn [cord] grass so called in the Southern States and the foxtail in Virginia a third species resembles the cheet tho' the horses feed on it very freely a fourth and most prevalent species is a grass which appears to be the same called the blue grass." This is said to be now seeding, 9-12 inches high, affording excellent pasturage, bearing frost well, and would, no doubt, be valuable for hay. The absence of " greensward " is also noted. The grasses of the United States with which Captain Clark com- pares the species he observed here are : cord-grass, a kind of marsh-grass of the genus Spartina ; foxtail, species of Alopecurus, as A. pratensis ; cheet, cheat or chess, Bromus secalinus or another species of brome-grass ; and blue-grass, the well-known Poa pratensis. As to the latter, the red-topped blue-grass, Poa tenui folia, of Montana, Idaho, etc., is no doubt the species in mention as affording a valuable pasturage. The chess may be B. breviari status. Lewis L 26, 27, same date : " Among the grasses of this country I observe a large species [Phragmitis communis] which grows in moist situations ; it rises to the height of 8 or lo feet ; the culm is jointed, hollow, smooth, as large as a goos quill, and more firm than ordinary grasses ; the leaf is linear, broad and rough ; it has much the appearance of the maden [maiden ? meadow ?] cain [cane] as it is called in the State of Georgia, and retains its virdure until late in the fall. This grass propagates principally by the root, which is horizontal and perennial. A second species grows in tussocks and rises to the hight of six or eight feet ; it seems to delight in the soil of the river bottoms." " The earliest description of the Louisiana tanager {Piranga ludoviciana) ever penned is in Clark Q 143-15 1, and Lewis L 29, June 6th, 1806. So here is the • 1 t lii i^ M i] 1036 THE ROUTE ABOUT TO BE RESUMED. tion between them and the Pahkees, in case we should meet these last. He answered that some of their young men would go with us, but they had not yet been selected for that purpose, nor could they be until a general meeting of the whole nation, who were to meet in the plain on Lewis' river at the head of Commearp [creek]. This meeting would take place in ten or twelve days, and if we set out before that time, the young men should foil v us. We therefore depend but little on their assistance as guides, but hope t® engage for that purpose some of the Ootlashoots near Trav- eler's-rest creek. Soon after this communication, which was followed by a present of dried quamash, we were visited by Hohastilpilp and several others, among whom were the two young chiefs who had given us horses some time ago. original locality of this species. It is described as seven inches long, the tail 2 1^ the beak thick and heavy, the plumage " remarkably delicate ; that of the neck and head is of a fine orange yellow & red, the latter predominates on the top of the head and around the base of the beak ... the red has the appearance of being laid over a ground of yellow, the breast, sides, rump and some long feathers which he between the legs and extend under the tail are of a fine orange yellow • the tail, back and wings are black except a small stripe of yellow on the outer ^f u, ^'^l'"'^'^'^ J°'"^ °f '^^ ^'"K«." etc. The description is clear and unmis- takable. This is one of the three species named by Wilson (Am. Om. III. 181 1 p. 27, pi. 20, fig. I) from specimens procured by the Expedition— the other two being Lewis' woodpecker and Clark's crow, both figured on the same plate. I ' mi'A 1IJI' ir it (III CHAPTER XXXI. AGAIN IN THE BITTER-ROOT MOUNTAINS. Prtparation to visit Quamash flats— Willetpo Indians— Diversions and traffic with the Indians —The mountains reported impassable till July— Present state of the KoosUooslcee— The party sets out for Quamash Hats June loth— Collins' creek— Camp on the flats near where the Chopunnish were first met last autumn— Vegetation described— Hunting-Labori- ous progress to an east branch of Collins' creek— Hungry creek reached and descended— Ascent of the ridge which divides the Chopunnihh and main Kooskooskee watershed —Rigors of winter in June— Doubts and difficulties— The repulse— Return to Hungry creek — Drewyerand Shannon dispatched to hasten arrival of Indian guides— Return lo Collins' creek— Determination to fall back on Quamash flats— Other deliberations— Snow ten feet deep— Query : As a last resource to attempt the main S.W. branch of Lewis' river and thence over to Madison or Gallatin river ?— Collins' creek passed— Camp at last Sep- tember's camp— Camp again on Quamash flats— Success in hunting— Drewyerand Shannon return with three Indian guides— The return to Collins' creek— To Hungry creek— To the ascent of the mountain— Route through deep snow to camp of Sept. i8th— Visit of a Chopunnish who wishes to go to the falls of the Missouri— Indian landmark on the crest of the mountain— Sagacity of Indian guides— Descent of the mountain, across two branches of the Chopunnish river— Camp of Sept. i6th reached— Another mountain crossed— Descent to headwaters of the Kooskooskee— Recovery of the road— The hot springs on a branch of Traveler's-rest creek reached June 29th. QATURDAY, June 7th, 1806.' The two young chiefs '^ returned after breakfast to their camp on Commearp creek, accompanied by several of our men, who were sent to purchase ropes and bags for packing, in exchange for some parts of an old seine, bullets, old files, and pieces of iron. In the evening they returned with a few strings, but no bags. Hohastilpilp crossed the river in the course of the day, and brought with him a horse, which he gave to one of our men, who had previously made him a present of a pair of Canadian shoes, or shoe-packs. We were all occupied in preparing packs and saddles for our journey; and as we intend to visit the Quamash flats on the loth, in order to lay in a store of provisions f )f the journey over the mountains, we do not suffer the men to disturb the g^me in that neighborhood. • Clark Q 152-155 and Lewis L 31, 32, describe a kind of cherry of this place and date. 1037 !) ■] I I 1 ! a. • i-Tyrtf^ssiTrF^^ "«». , iii.wwwfwmpiipi ^^fm^mmfm^ 1 Hr , i\ 'I 1: I I '1 Vt I •I h. li! 1 . I 1038 CAYUSES, OF THE WAIILATPUAN FAMILY. /uui' Sf/i. Cut-nose visited us this morning with ten or twelve warriors ; among these were two belonging to a band of Chopunnish we had not yet seen, who call themselves Willetpos,' and reside on the south side of Lewis' (p. jio) river. One of them gave us a good horse which he rode, in exchange for one of ours which was unable to cross the mountains, on receiving a tomahawk in addition. We were also fortunate in exchanging two other horses of inferior value for others much better, without giving anything else to the purchaser. After these important purchases, several foot-races were run between our men and the Indians; the latter, who are very active and fond of these races, proved themselves very expert, and one of them was as fleet as our » My friend Mr. A. J. Hill of St. Paul, Minn., a deep delver in historico- geographical matters, calls my attention to a certain relation, " important if true," which goes to show that L. and C. met with the Indians now known as Cayuses. The Narrative of Commander Charles Wilkes, U. S. N.. of the U. S. Expl. Exped. IV. p. 395, speaks of an old man who took a flag, given by L. and C. to the Cayuse, to the Grande Ronde, and had it planted there by a party of Cayuses and Wallawallas, with the result of a permanent peace with the Sho- shones. L. and C. certainly left flags in various places (note " p. 990) ; they probably first met with Cayuses when among the Wallawallas ; and the W..Iet- pos of above text (Y-e-let-pos, Lewis L 32 ; compare Yellept' and Yelleppit, pp. 645. 970) were doubtless Cayuses, here first mentioned by name. These were Indians of a different stock from the Wallawallas, being Waiilatpuans. Waiilatpu is also spelled Wailatpu, Willetpoo, etc., and in some form became a tolerably familiar word, because a mission of this name was established in 1836, by Dr. Marcus Whitman, in the present locality of Fort Wallawalla and Wallal walla City. The Cayuse lived along the Columbia between the Umatilla and the Snake, and especially on the Wallawalla river. They were also called Cail- leux, Kiuse, Kiuze (Kinze by misprint), etc. There was another tribe of Waiilat- puans, the Molele or Molale or Mollale, who lived in the Cascade range, south of the Columbia, about Mts. Hood and Jefferson. Hale established his lin- guistic family on these two tribes, U. S. Expl. Ex. VI. 1846, pp. 199, 214, 569 ; so Gallatin, Trans. Am. Ethn. Soc. II. 1848 ; Bancroft, Nat. Races, III. 1882,' p. 565, etc. The Indian Report for 1889 returned 31 Molales on Grande Ronde Reservation, and the same Report for 1888 returned 401 Cayuses on the Umatilla Reservation ; "but Mr. [H. W.J Ilenshaw was able to find only six old men and women upon the Reservation in August, 1888, who spoke their own language. The others, though presumably of Cayuse blood, speak the Umatilla tongue" (Powell, Rep. U. S. Bureau Ethnol. for 1885-86, pub. 1891, p. 128). FINAL ARRANGEMENTS FOR DEPARTURE. 1039 swiftest runners. After the races were over, the men divided themselves into two parties and played prison bass [base], an exercise which we are desirous of encouraging, before we begm the passage over the mountains, as several of the men are becoming lazy from inaction. At night these games were concluded by a dance. One of the Indians informed us that we could not pass the mountains before the next full moon, or about the 1st of July; because, if we attempted it before that time the horses would be forced to travel without food three days on the top of the mountains. This intelligence was disagree- able, for it excited a doubt as to the most proper time for crossing the mountains ; but having no time to lose, we are determined to risk the hazards, and start as soon as the Indians generally consider it practicable, which is about the middle of this month. Jtine gth. Our success yesterday encouraged us to attempt to exchange some more of our horses whose back:^ were unsound, but we could dispose of one only. Hohastil- pilp, who visited us yesterday, left us with several Indians for the plains near Lewis' river, where the whole nation are about to assemble. Broken-arm, too, with all his people, stopped on their way to the general rendezvous at the same place. Cut-nose, or Neeshncpahkeeook, borrowed a horse and rode down a few miles after some young eagles. He soon returned with two of the gray kind, nearly grown, which he meant to raise for the sake of the feathers. The young chief who some time since made us a present of (/. jii) two horses, came with a party of his people and passed the night with us. The river, which is about 150 yards wide, has been dis- charging vast bodies of water; but notwithstanding its depth, the water has been nearly transparent, and its tem- perature quite as cold as our best springs. For several days, however, the river has been falling, and is now six feet lower than it has been, a ?^;ong proof that the great body of snow has left the mountains. It is, indeed, nearly at the I I 1* 111 ":<' !■ ■ I i 1. /,■* Il'f ft '! 1 r 1040 CAMP CHOPUNNISH EVACUATED. same height as when we arrived here ; a circumstance which the Indians consider as indicating the time when the moun- tains may be crossed. We shall wait, however, a few days, because the roads must still be wet and slippery, and the grass on the mountains will be improved in a short time. The men are in high spirits at the prospect of setting out, and amused themselves during the afternoon with different games. /une \oth. After collecting our horses, which took much time, w e set out at eleven o'clock for Quamash flats. Our stock of horses is now very abundant, each man being well mounted, with a small load on a second horse, and several supernumerary ones in case of accident or want of food. We ascended the river-hills, which are very high, and three miles in extent, our course being N. 22° E.; then turning to N. 15° W. for two miles, till we reached Collins' creek. This was deep and difficult to cross ; but we passed without any injury, except wetting some of our provisions, and then proceeded due north for five miles to the eastern edge of Quamash flats, near where we first met the Chopunnish last autumn. We camped ' on the bank of a small stream, in a point of woods bordering the extensive level and beautiful prairie, which is intersected by several rivulets ; and which, as the quamash is now in blossom, presents a perfect resem- blance of lakes of clear water. ' ''Tuesday lotk. We collected all our horses, but one, and set out accom- panied by several of the natives, travelled about 12 miles and arrived at what we call Com-mas flat, where we first met the natives after crossing the Rocky Mountains last fall. Here we encamped and some hunters v/ent out. The com-mas grows in great abundance on this plain, and at this time looks beautiful, being in full bloom with flowers of a pale blue color." Gass, p. 233. Quamash flats is west of Weippe prairie, upon which Captain Clark descended from the mountains Sept. 20th (see p. 603 and note there), followed by the Expe- dition two days later (p. 609). Camp is now on Village (Flores or Jim Ford's) creek, or a branch of it, five miles north of Nahwah river or Lo I.o fork, at a point I suppose to be about the present site of Eraser (town)— some six or eiglit miles N.W. of town of Weippe, and about the same distance N. of E. of Lo Lo P. O., which is at the mouth of the river of the same name. It might be located still more closely by one familiar with the place. CAMP ON QUAMASH FLATS. IO41 A party of Chopunnish, who had overtaken us a few miles above, halted for the night with us, and mentioned that they {p. 312) too had come down to hunt in the Hats, though we fear they expect we will provide for them during their stay. The country through which we passed is generally free from stone, extremely fertile, and supplied with timber, con- sisting of several species of fir, long-leaved pine, and larch. The undergrowth is choke-cherry near the water-courses, and scattered through the country are black alder, a large species of red root [?] now in bloom, and a plant resembling the pawpaw in its leaf, bearing a berry with five valves of a deep purple color. There were also two species of sumach, the purple haw {Viburnum pauciflorum\ seven-bark, service- berry, gooseberry, the honeysuckle bearing a white berry [Syjnphoricarpiis raceniosiis\, and a species of dwarf pine, ten or twelve feet high, which might be confounded with a young pine of the long-leaved species {Pimis pondcrosa], except that the former bears a cone of a globular form, with small scales, and that its leaves are in fascicles of two,' resembling in length and appearance those of the common pitch-pine. Wc also observed two species of wild rose {Rosa mitkana and R. sayi?\ both quinquepetalous, both of a damask-red color, and similar in the stem ; but one of them is as large as the common red rose of our gardens ; its leaf is somewhat larger than that of the other species of wild rose ; and the apex [^zV— read apples, /. e., the haws or mature fruits], as we saw them last year, were more than three times the size of the common wild rose. We saw many sand-hill cranes, some ducks in the marshes near camp, and a greater number of burrowing-squirrcls \Spcrmophihis colmnbiamis\ some of which we killed, and found as tender and well-flavored as our gray squirrels. June iit/i." All our hunters set out by daylight; but on their return to dinner, had killed nothing except a black bear ♦Clark Q 156-163 and Lewis L 36-41 give at this date a minute description of the " quawmash," Camassia cscnlenta : see note 3^, p. 603. The botanical notes of the paragraph above are on immediately preceding folios of the same codices. II Mi lM>; If « t! 1042 HUNTING ABOUT QUAMASM FLATS. and two deer. Five of the Indians also began to hunt, but they were quite unsuccessful, and in the afternoon returned to their village. Finding that the game had become shy and scarce, the hunters set out after dinner with orders to stay out during the night, and hunt at a greater distance from the camp, in ground less frequented. But the next {p. 313) day {^Jiine Mth"^ they returned with nothing except two deer. They were therefore again sent out, and about noon the following day {June 13^/;'], seven of them came in with eight deer out of a number which, as well as a bear, they had wounded but could not take. In the meantime we had sent two men [R. Fields and Willard] forward about eight miles to a [Weippe] prairie on this side of Collins' creek, with orders to hunt till our arrival. Two other hunters [Labiche and Cruzatte] returned toward night ; they had killed only one deer, which they had hung up in the morning, and which had been devoured by the buzzards [Cathartcs aura']. An Indian, who had spent the last evening with us, ex- changed a horse for one of ours, which being sick, we gave a small ax and a knife in addition. He seemed very much pleased, and set out immediately to his village, lest we should change our minds and give up the bargain, which is perfectly allowable in Indian traffic. The hunters resumed « Gass makes a notable entry at this date, p. 224. " The magpie is also plenty here, and woodpeckers of a different kind from any I had before seen. They are about the size of a common red-headed woodpecker ; but are all black except the belly and neck, where the ends of the feathers are tipped with a deep red, but this tipping extends to so short a distance on the feathers, iiiat at a distance the bird looks wholly black." The point is that here is the original appearance in print of Lewis' woodpecker, four years before it was described and figured as Picus tor- quatmhy Wilson in i8ii (Amer. Orn. IIL p. 31, pi. 20, fig. 3) and seven years before Lewis and Clark's own description appeared. See note", p. 428, and p. 877. « Important memorandum at this date, Lewis L 42 ; "We made a digest of the Indian Nations West of the Rocky mountains which we have seen and of whom we have been repeated[ly] informed by those with whome we were con- versent. they amount by our estimate to 69,000 Souls "—with " about 80,000 " red-inked under the other figures. By this we learn just when and where the "Estimate of the Western Indians" which is printed in the Appendix was originally drafted. FROM QUAMASH FLATS TO COLLINS' CREEK. 1043 the chase in the morning IJimc 14^/1], but the game is now so scarce that they [/. e., Colter] killed only one deer. VVe therefore cut up and dried all the meat we had collected, packed all our baggage, and hobbled our horses to be in readiness to set out. But in the morning, /une isi/i, they had straggled to such a distance that we could not collect them without great difficulty, and as it rained very hard, we waited till it should abate. It soon, however, showed every appearance of a settled rain, and we therefore set out at ten o'clock.' We crossed the prai- ne [passed a little prairie, Lewis L 43] at the distance of eight [8/2] miles, [to] where we had sent our hunters, [R. Fields and Willard] and found two deer which they' had hung up for us. At 2/^ miles further we overtook these two men at Collins' creek. They had killed a third deer and had seen one large [black] and another white bear! After dining, we proceeded up this creek about half a mile [passing it three times], then crossing through a high broken country for about ten [for io>^] miles, reached an easterly branch of the same creek, near which we camped in the bottom [near a small prairie], after a ride of 22 miles The rams during the day made the roads very slippery, which jomed to the quantity of fallen timber, rendered our progress slow and laborious to the (fi. ji^) horses, many of which fell, though without suffering any injury. The country through which we passed has a thick growth of long-leaved pme, with some pitch-pine, larch, white pine, white cedar or arbor vita; [T/iuja occidentalis\ of large size, and a variety of firs. The undergrowth consists chiefly of reed-root [so Lewis L 44] from six to ten feet in height, with the other species already enumerated. The soil is in general good, and has ' The Expedition is now about to attempt the passage of the "Rocky" moun- tains, I. ..of the Bitter-root ranges, to Traveler's-rest creek, by the same route they came last autumn-as nearly as they can. For this trail, see back, date of Sept. nth, p. 592, and following page with notes, and compare as we proceed A few new points will come up ; for the rest, this reference must suffice As already stated, there is no very serviceable map of this huge nest of mountains, btevens No. 3 is on the whole the best. hml V \ I, ! li/iii 1044 SMALL BRANCH OF HUNGRY CREEK. somewhat of a red cast, like that near the Southwest moun- tain in Virginia. We saw in the course of our ride the speckled woodpecker [Picus villosus Iiyloscopus\ the logcock or large woodpecker [Ci'ophlivus pilcatHs\ the bee-martin ITyrannus carolincnsis], and found the nest of a humming- bird {Sclasphorus platyccrciis^\ which had just begun to lay its eggs. June \6ik. We readily collected our horses, and having taken breakfast, proceeded at six o'clock up the [easterly branch of Collins'] creek, through handsome meadows of fine grass, and a great abundance of quamash. At the dis- tance of two miles we crossed this creek, and ascended a ridge in a direction toward the northeast. Fallen timber still obstructed our way so much that it was eleven o'clock before we had made seven miles, to a small branch of Hun- gry creek. In th- hollows and on the north sides of the hills large quantities of snow still remain, in some places to the depth of two or three feet. Vegetation is proportion- ally retarded, the dog-tooth violet being just in bloom, and the honeysuckle, huckleberry, and a small species of white maple beginning to put forth their leaves. These appear- ances, in a part of the country comparatively low, are ill omens of the practicability of passing the mountains. But being determined to proceed, we halted " merely to take a hasty meal, while the horses were grazing, and then resumed our march. The route was through thick woods and over high hills, intersected by deep ravines and obstructed by fallen timber. We found much difificulty also in following the road, the greater part of it being covered with snow, which lies in great masses eight or ten feet deep, and would « Credit Lewis and Clark with the discovery of this species, which was unknown to science until described as Trochihis platycerctis by Swainson, Philos. Mag. I. 1827, p. 441, from Mexico, and was only very recently reported from Idaho again. *This nooning was at "a handsome little glade" on the "small branch" of Hungry creek, Lewis L 44— a statement which may help to identify the spot. This branch of Hungry creek is named Fish creek on June 24th, which see: see also June i8th. The codex also says that "this morning Windsor busted his rifle near the muzzle." Ik i DOWN HUNGRY CREEK TO THE DIVIDE. 1045 be impassable were it not so firm as to bear our horses. Early in the evening (/. j/j) we reached Hungry creek at the place where Captain Clark had left a horse for us' as we passed on September 19th; and finding a small glade with some grass, though not enough for our horses, we thought .t better to halt for the night, lest by going further we should find nothing for the horses to eat. Hungry creek is small at this place, but deep, and discharges a torrent of water, perfectly transparent and cold as ice Dunng the 15 miles of our route to-day the principal tim- ber was the pitch-pine, white pine, larch, and fir. The long-leaved pine extends but a small distance on this side of Collins' creek, and the white cedar does not reach beyond the branch of Hungry creek on which we dined. In the early part of the day we saw the columbine, the bluebell, and the yellow flowering-pea in bloom. There is also in these mountains a great quantity of angelica stronger to the taste and more highly scented than that common m the United States. The smell is very pleasant and the natives, after drying and cutting the plants into small pieces, wear them in strings around their necks. June 17 tk. We find lately that the air is pleasant in the course of the day ; but notwithstanding the shortness of the night, it becomes very cold before morning. At an early hour we collected our horses and proceeded down the [Hungry] creek, which we crossed twice with much difficulty and danger, m consequence of its depth and rapiditv. We avoided two other crossings of the same kind, by crossing over a steep and rocky hill. At the distance of seven miles the road begins the ascent of the main ridges which divide the waters of the Chopunnish and [main] Kooskooskee rivers." We followed it up a mountain for about three '» This is the first distinct statement in the text that the route is on a divide between the watershed northward of the North fork of the Kooskooskee and the main watershed southward. The outward route made it evident that they were on an extended divide, but what one the explorers could not say, as they knew nothing of what was before them or on either hand. See note "■ p 600 I W 1 1 1 1 k ■ K>l '1 ! 1 1 :! 'i 1 li 'A li f 1 ill! ' f ■!fj ' v V I .' ; >i 1046 HALTED BY THE SNOWY BARRIER. miles, when we found ourselves enveloped in snow from 12 to 15 feet in depth, even on the south side of the mountain, with the fullest exposure to the sun. Winter now pre- sented itself in all its rigors ; the air was keen and cold, no vestige of vegetation was to be seen, and our hands and feet benumbed. We halted at the sight of this new difficulty. We already knev/ that to wait till the snows (/. ji6) of the mountains had dissolved, so as to enable i •- r., distinguish the road, would defeat our design of retu to the United States this season. We now found also ...idt as the snow bore our horses very well, traveling was infinitely easier than it was last fall, when the rocks and fallen timber had so much obstructed our march. But it would require five days to reach the fish-weirs at the mouth of Colt [-killed] creek, even if we were able to follow the proper ridges of the mountains ; and the danger of missing our direction is ex- ceedingly great while every track is covered with snow. During these five days, too, we have no chance of finding either grass or underwood for our horses, the snow being so deep. To proceed, therefore, under such circumstances, would be to hazard our being bewildered in the mountains, and to insure the loss of our horses ; even should we be so fortunate as to escape with our lives, we might be obliged to abandon all our papers and collections. It was therefore decided not to venture any further ; to deposit here all the baggage and provisions for which we had no immediate use ; and, reserving only subsistence for a few days, to return while our horses were yet strong to some spot where we might Hve by hunting, till a guide could be procured to con- duct us across the mountains. Our baggage was placed on scaffolds and carefully covered, as were also the instruments and papers, which we thought it safer to leave than to risk over the roads and creeks by which we came. Having completed this operation, we set out at one o'clock; and treading back our steps, reached Hungiy creek, which we ascended for two miles till, finding some FORCED BACK TO HUNGRY CREEK. 1047 scanty grass, we camped." The rain fell during the greater part of the evening, and as this was the first time that we have ever been compelled to make any retrograde move- ment, we feared that it might depress the spirits of the men; but though they were somewhat dejected at the circumstance, the obvious necessity precluded all repining. During the night our horses straggled in search of food to a considerable distance among (/.j/7) the thick timber on the hillsides, nor could we collect them till nine o'clock the next morning, June i2>th. Two of them were, however, still missing, and we therefore directed two of the party [Shields and Lepage] to remain and hunt for them. At the same time, we dis- patched Drewyerand Shannon to the Chopunnish [Indians], in the plains beyond the Kooskooskee, in order to hasten the arrival of those Indians who had promised to accom- pany us; or at any rate, to procure a guide to conduct us to Traveler's-rest [creek]. For this purpose they took a rifle, as a reward to anyone who would engage to conduct us, with directions to increase the reward, if necessary, by an offer of " Gass thus records this disheartening day, p. 226 : " Tuesday i -jtk. We early continued our march ; took down Hungiy creek about six miles, and then took up a large mountain. When we got about half way up the mountain the ground was entirely covered with snow three feet deep ; and as we ascended it still became deeper, until we arrived at the top, where it was 12 or 15 feet deep ; but it in general carried our horses. Here there was not the appearance of a green shrub, or anything for our horses to subsist on ; and we know it cannot be better for four days march, even could we find the road or course, which appears almost impossible, without a guide perfectly acquainted with the moun- tains. We therefore halted to determine what was best to be done, as it appeared not only imprudent but highly dangerous to proceed without a guide of any kind. After remaining about two hours we concludetl it would be most advisable to go back to some place where there was food for our horses. We therefore hung up our loading on poles, tied to and exter Ijd between trees, covered it all safe with deer skins, and turned back melancholy and disappointed.'' There was perhaps no more critical day in the history of the Expedition than this, and certainly none when the spirits of the party were at a lower ebb. The outlook was four or five days of 10 to 15 feet deep snow, no guide, no road, and no forage ; it would have been madness to proceed ; it was wisdom to retire from frowning " Old Baldy." w H r . -f ' It f ^^'l' 1048 BACK TO COLLINS' CREEK. two other guns, to be given immediately, and ten horses, at the falls of the Missouri, We then resumed our route. In crossing Hungry creek one of the horses fell and rolled over with the rider [Colter], who was driven for a considerable distance among the rocks '; but he fortunately escaped without losing his gun or suffering any injury. Another of the men [Potts] was cut very badly, in a vein in the inner side of the leg, and we had great dif! faculty in stopping the blood. About one o'clock we halted for dinner at the glade, on a branch [Fish creek] of Hungry creek, where we had dined on the i6th inst. Observing much track of deer, we left two men [R. and J. Fields] at this place to hunt, and then proceeded to Collins' creek, where we camped " in a pleasant situation, at the upper end of the meadows, two miles above our camp of the 15th inst. The hunters were immediately sent out, but they returned without having killed anything, though they saw some few tracks of deer, very great appearance of bear, and what is of more importance, a number of what they thought were sal- mon-trout in the creek. We therefore hope, by means of these fish and other game, to subsist at this place without re- turning to Quamash flats, which we are unwilling to do, since there is in these meadows [where we are now] great abun- dance of good food for our horses. June igt/i. The hunters renewed the chaso at a very early hour, but they brought only a single fish at noon. {p. 318) The fishermen [Gibson and Colter] were more unsuccessful, for they caught no f^sh, and broke their two Indian gigs! We, however, mended them with a sharp piece of iron, and toward evening they took a single fish ; but instead of f^nd- " Gass, p. 227, gives the mishaps of to-day tersely : "We started about eight o'clock, and found the road very slippery and bad. Two men went on ahead to the village to enquire for a guide, and two more remained to look for two horses that could not be found. We proceed on with four men in front to cut some bushes out of the path ; but did not go very far till one of the men cut himself very badly with a large knife ; when we had to halt and bind up his wound. We went again forward, and in crossing the creek the horse of one of our men fell with him, threw him off, hurt his leg and lost his blanket." 1 1 ii IN CAMP ON COLLINS' CREEK. 1049 ing it the salmon of this spring's arrival, which would of course have been fine, it proved to be a salmon-trout of the red kind, which remain all winter in the upper parts of the rivers and creeks, and are generally poor at this season. In the afternoon, the two men [R. and J. Fields], who were left behind in search of the horses, returned without being able to find them ; the other two hunters [Shields and Lepage] arrived from Hungry creek with a couple of deer. Several large morels- were brought in [by Cruzatte] to-day; but eaten, as we were obliged to use them, without either salt pepper, or grease, they seemed a very tasteless, insipid food' Our stock of salt is wholly exhausted, except two quarts which we left on the mountain. The mosquitoes have be- come very troublesome since we arrived here, particularly m the evening. ^ June 20th. The scantiness of our subsistence was now such that we were determined to make one more effort to ascertain if it be possible to remain here. The hunters therefore set out very early. On their return in the even- ing they [Cruzatte and Labiche] brought one deer, and [R Fields] a brown bear of the species called by the Chopunnish yahhar [or yackhar], the talons of which were remarkably short, broad at the base, and sharply pointed. It was in bad order, and the flesh of bear in this situation is much inferior to lean venison or elk. We also caught seven [salmon-] trout. But the hunters reported that game was so scarce and so difificult to be approached, in consequence of thick underbrush and fallen timber, that with their utmost exer- tions they could not procure us subsistence for more than one or two days longer. We determined, therefore to set out in the morning for Quamash flats, where we should hear sooner from the Chopunnish on the subject of our guide and also renew our stock of food, which is now nearly exhausted. " " Morells " Lewis L 51-a kind of edible mushrcom. This is specifically the name of Morchella esculenta, a well-known mushroom of Europe, also found in certain parts of the United States, and used in various ways instead of the ordmary agaric. m ,i- 1 ' \A ;^i . i\ M . J I' ' J. I I * n I' I'" t 1050 A MOMENTOUS QUESTION. Determined as we now are to reach the United States, if {p-3^9) possible, this winter, it would be destructive to wait till the snows have melted from the road. The snows have formed a hard, co • -se bed without crust, on which the horses walk safely without slipping; the chief difficulty, therefore, is to find the road. In this we may be assisted by the cir- cumstance that, though generally ten feet in depth, the snow has been thrown off by the thick and spreading branches of the trees, and from round the trunk ; while the warmth of the trunk itself, acquired by the reflection of the sun, or communicated by natural heat of the earth, which is never frozen under these masses, has dissolved the snow so much that immediately at the roots its depth is not more than one or two feet. We therefore hope that the marks of the bag. gage rubbing against the trees may still be perceived ; and we have decided, in case the guide cannot be procured, that one of us will take three or four of our most expert woods- men, several of our best horses, and an ample supply of provisions, go on two days' journey in advance, and endeavor to trace the route by the marks of the Indian bag- gage on the trees, which we would then mark more dis- tinctly with a tomahawk. When they should have reached two days' journey beyond Hungry creek, two of the men were to be sent back to apprise the rest of their success, and if necessary to cause them to delay there ; lest, by advancing too soon, they should be forced to halt where no food could be obtained for the horses. If the traces of the baggage be too indistinct, the whole party is to return to Hungry creek, and we will then attempt the passage by ascending the main southwest branch of Lewis' river through the country of the Shoshonees, over to Madison or Gallatin river. On chat route, the Chopunnish inform us, there is a passage not ob- structed by snow at this period of the year. That there is such a passage we also learned from the Shoshonees whom we first met on the east fork of Lewis' river ; but they represented it as much more difficult than that by which we came, being obstructed by high, steep, rugged (/. j2o) BACK TO QUAMASH FLATS. 105 1 mountains, followed by an extensive plain, without either wood or game. We are, indeed, inclined to prefer the account of the Shoshonees, because they would have cer- tainly recommended that route had it been better than the one we have taken ; and because there is a war between the Chopunnish and the Shoshonees who live on that route, the former are less able to give accurate information of the state of the country. This route, too, is so circuitous that it would require a month lo perform it ; we therefore consider it as the extreme resource. In hopes of soon procuring a guide to lead us over a more practicable route, we collected our horses at an early hour in the morning, June 2\st, and proceeded toward Quamash flats. The mortification of being obliged to tread back our steps ren- dered still more tedious a route always so obstructed by brush and fallen timber that it cannot be passed without difficulty, and even danger to our horses. One of these poor creatures wounded himself so badly in jumping over fallen logs that he was rendered unfit for use, and sickness has deprived us of the service of a second." At the pass of Collins* creek we met two Indians, who returned with us about half a mile to the spot where we had slept last Sep- tember, and where we now halted to dine and let our horses graze. These Indians had four supernumerary horses, and were on their way to cross the mountains. They had seen Drewyer and Shannon, who they said would not return for two days. We pressed them to remain with us till that time, in order to conduct us ovir the mountains ; to which they consented, and deposited their stores of roots and bread in the bushes at a little distance. After dinner we left three men [Gassand R. and J. Fields] to hunt till our return, " Great trouble with the horses. Captain Lewis', the one that was gelded, was shot June 2d. Yesterday Bratton's horse strayed away, probably back to Quamash flats, and left this invalid afoot. " Thompson's horse is either choked this morning or has the distemper very badly ... an excellent horse of Cru- zatte's snagged [impaled] himself so badly in the groin in jumping over a parsel of fallen timber that he will evidently be of no further service," Lewis L 54. . H t . t Ili.i: 1052 CAMPED AGAIN ON QUAMASH FLATS. and then proceeded ; but we had not gone further than two miles when the Indians halted in a small prairie, where they promised to remain at least two nights, if we did not over- take [return to] them sooner, VVc left them, and about seven in the evening found ourselves at our old camp on Quamash flats; and were glad to find that the iour{p,jj/) hunters, whom we had sent ahead, had killed a deer for supper. Sunday, June 22d. At daylight all the hunters set out, and having chased through the whole country, were much more successful than we even hoped, for they brought in eight deer and three bears. Hearing that salmon were now abundant in the Kooskooskee, we dispatched a man [White- house] to our old camp [Camp Chopunnish] above Collins' creek, for the purpose of purchasing some with a few beuds which were found accidentally in one of our waistcoat pockets. He did not return in the evening, nor did we hear from Drewyer and Shannon, who we begin to fear have had much difficulty in engaging a guide ; and we were equally apprehensive that the two Indians [left yesterday] might set out to-morrow for the mountains. Early in the morning, June 2T)d, therefore, we dispatched two hunters [Frazier and Wiser] to prevail on them, if possible, to remain a day or two longer; if the Indians persisted in going on, the hunters were to accompany them with the three men [left June 2ist] at Collins' creek, and mark" the route as far as Trav- eler's-rest [creek], where they were to remain till we joined them by pursuing the same road. Our fears for the safety of Drewyer, Shannon, and White- house were fortunately relieved by their return in the after- " " And blaize the trees well as they proceeded," Lewis L 56. " To blaze " is such a common phrase, I have wondered why it never occurs in our text. This, however, is the first time I have noticed it in any codex. On the same page in Lewis L is a more unusual expression : "the does now having their fawns the hunters can bleat them up," i. e., toll or decoy them by imitating the bleating of a fawn. if f SECOND ATTEMPT TO SURMOUNT THE UARRIER. IO53 noon [but Colter is still absent]. The former brought three Indians, who promised to go with us to the falls of the Mis- souri, for the compensation of two guns. One of them is the brother of Cut-nose, and the other two had each given us a horse, at the house of IJroken-arm ; and as they are men of good character, respected in the nation, we had the best prospect of being well served. VVc therefore secured our horses near the camp, and at an early hour next morning, June 24//!, set out on a second attempt to cross the moun- tains. On reaching Collins' creek, we found only one of our men [Frazier], who informed us that a short time before he arrived there yesterday, the two Indians, tired of waiting, had set out, and the other four of our men [Gass, Wiser, and R. and J. Fields] had accompanied them {p. J22) as they were directed. After halting, we went on to Fish creek, the branch of Hungry creek where we had slept on the igth inst. Here we overtook two [Gass and Wiser] of the party who had gone on with the Indians, and had been fortunate enough to persuade them to wait for us. During their stay at Collins' creek, they [R. and J. Fields] had killed only a single deer, and of this they had been very liberal to the Indians, whom they were prevailing upon to remain ; so that they were without \ rovisions, and two [R. and J. Fields] of them had sci out for another branch of Hungry creek, where we shall meet them to-morrow. In the evening the Indians, in order as they said to bring fair weather for our journey, set fire to the woods. As these consisted chiefly of tall fir-trees, with very numerous dried branches, the blaze was almost instantaneous ; and as the flame mounted to the tops of the highest trees, it resembled a splendid display of fire-works. June 2i)th. One of our guides complained of being sick — a symptom by no means pleasant, for sickness is gener- ally with an Indian the pretext for abandoning an enter- prise which he dislikes. He promised, however, to overtake us ; we therefore left him with his two companions, and set out at an early hour. At eleven o'clock we halted for dinner * n ,» »« ' 1 I: h t -i ^ if 1 ' ^ Is pi 1 4' h 1054 ASCENT OF THE SNOWY MOUNTAIN. at the [another "] branch of Hungry creek, where we found uur two men [R. and J. Fields], who had killed nothing. Here too we were joined rather unexpectedly by our guides, who now appeared disposed to be faithful to their engage- ments. The Indian was indeed really sick, and having no other covering than a pair of moccasins and an elk-skin dressed without the hair, we supplied him with a buffalo- robe. In the evening we arrived at Hungry creek, and halted for the night about a mile and a half below our camp of the i6th inst. /urn- 26M. Having collected our horses and taken break- fast, we set out at six o'clock ; and pursuing our former route [of June 17th], at length began to ascend, for the second time," (p. J2j) the ridge of mountains. Near the snowy region we killed two of the small black pheasant [Defidra^aj^us/ran^/vii] and one of the speckled pheasant [the same species]. These birds generally inhabit the higher parts of the mountains, where they feed on the leaves of pines and firs ; both of them seem solitary and silent birds, for we have never heard either of them make a noise in any situation, and the Indians inform us that they do not drum or produce a whirring sound with their wings [as do the ruffed grouse of the genus Bonasa\ On reaching the top of the mountain [N.E. of Hungry creek, Lewis L 59], we found our deposit [made June 17th] untouched. The snow in the neighborhood has melted nearly four feet since the 17th inst. By measuring it accurately, and comparing it by a '« This branch appears to be nameless, and remains to be identified. Here Lewis L 58 has : " At this place I met with a plant the root of which the Shoshones eat. it is a small knob root, a good deel in flavor an consistency like the Jerusalem artichoke iHelianthus tuberosus\ it has two small oval smooth leaves placed opposite on either side of the peduncle just above the root, the scape is only about 4 inches long, is round and smooth, the roots of this plant formed one of those collections of roots which Drewyer took from the Shoshones last summer," i. e., Aug. 22d : see p. 544. " The Expedition has now been 12 days (since June 14th) back and forth be- tween Quamash flats and the mountains. They have meanwhile traversed the route three times-east, west, and east again-and now for the second time run up against the snowy barrier. t; ii ' ^ : i ' THE ROUTE ALONG THE DIVIDING RIDGE. 1055 mark which we then made, the general depth we discover to have been lo feet lo inches, though in some places still greater ; but at this time it is about seven feet. It required two hours to arrange our baggage and prepare a hasty meal, after which the guides urged us to set off, as we had a long ride to make before reaching a spot where there was grass for our horses. We mounted, and following their steps, sometimes crossed abruptly steep hills, then wound along their sides near tremendous precipices, where, had our horses slipped, we should have been lost irrecover- ably. Our route lay on the ridgy mountains which separate the waters of the Kooskooskee and Chopunnish, above the heads of all the streams, so that we met no running water. The whole country was completely covered with snow, except that occasionally we saw a few square feet of earth, at the roots of some trees around which the snow had dissolved. We passed our camp of Sept. i8th [1805] ; late in the evening reached the deserted [desired] spot, and camped near a good spring of water." It was on the steep side of a mountain, with no wood and a fair southern aspect, from which the snow seems to have melted for about ten days, and given place to an abundant growth of young grass, resembling greensward. There is also another species of grass, not unlike a flag, with a broad succulent leaf, which is confined to the upper parts of the highest mountains. It (/. J24) is a favorite food of the horses, but at present is either cov- ered with snow or just making its appearance. There is a third plant peculiar to the same regions, a species of whortle- berry. There are also large quantities of a species of bear- m V'.'i 'hi »'.l r II " Gass notes, p. 230 : '' Thursday 2bth. We had a foggy morning; proceeded on early ; and found the banks of snow much decreased : at noon we arrived at the place where we had left our baggage and stores. The snow here had sunk 20 inches. We took some dinner, but there was nothing for our horses to ent. We measured the depth of snow here, and found it 10 foet 10 inches. We pro- ceeded over some very steep tops of the mountains and deep snow ; but the snow was not so deep in the drafts between them ; fortunately we got in the evening to the side of a hill where the snow was gone ; and there was very good grass for our horses." H ;; f J t: 1056 THE LONG RIDGE STILL FOLLOWED. II- grass, which, though it grows luxuriantly over all these mountains, and preserves its verdure during the whole winter, is never eaten by horses. In the night there came to the camp a Chopunnish, who had pursued us with a view to accompanying us to the falls of the Missouri. We now learned that the two young Indians whom we had met on the 21st and detained several days, were going merely on a party of pleasure to the Ootla- shoots, or, as they call them[selves], Shallees,'" a band of Tushepahs, who live on Clark's river near Traveler's-rest [creek]. Early the next morning, June 27th, we resumed our route over the heights and steep hills of the same great ridge. At eight miles' distance we reached an eminence where the Indians have raised a conic mound of stone, six or eight feet high, on which is fixed a pole made of pine, about 15 feet long. Here we halted and smoked for some time at the request of the Indians, who told us that, in passing the mountains with their families, some men are usually sent on foot from this i^iace to fish at the entrance of Colt [-killed "J creek, whence they rejoin the main party at the Quamash glade on the head of the Kooskooskee. From this elevated spot we have a com- manding view of the surrounding mountains, which so com- pletely inclose us that, though we have once [in Sept., 1805] passed them, we almost despair of ever escaping from them without the assistance of the Indians. The marks on the trees, which had been our chief dependence, are much fewer and more difificult to be distinguished than we had sup- posed. But our guides traverse this trackless region with a kind of instinctive sagacity ; they never hesitate, they are never embarrassed ; and so undeviating is their step, that ''Elsewhere Shakes, Shalles, and Shahlees. Otherwise Ootlashoots. Utla- shoots, Oatlashoots, etc.: see note ">, p. 582, and note ", p. 583. «0See note'", p. 596, where •' Colt-killed " is the name given to this creek. Observe also that the " Quamash glade " here in mention— one of several similiar spots of the same name— is the Summit prairie of note «*, p. 595. Lewis L 6r says that the stone mound above mentioned was one mile short of their camp of Sept. 17th— a good point made for the identification of the latter. See p. 599. I' I 'J CHOPUNNISH AFFLUENTS CROSS THE TRAIL. 1057 wherever the snow has disappeared, for even a hundred paces, we find the summer (/>. J25) road. With their aid the snow is scarcely a disadvantage ; for though we are often obliged to slip down, yet the fallen timber and the rocks, which are now covered, were much more troublesome when we passed in the autumn. Traveling is indeed compara- tively pleasant, as well as more rapid, the snow being hard and coarse, without a crust, and perfectly hard enough to prevent the horses sinking more than two or three inches. After the sun has been on it for some hours it becomes softer than it is early in the morning ; yet they are almost always able to get a sure foothold. After some time we resumed our route, and at the distance of three miles descended a steep mountain; then crossing two branches of the Chopunnish river, just above their forks, we began to mount a second ridge. Along this we proceeded for some time, and then, at the distance of seven miles, reached our camp of the i6th of September [1805°']. Near this place we crossed three small branches of the Chopunnish, and then ascended a second dividing ridge, along which we continued for nine miles, when the ridge became somewhat lower, and we halted for the night in a position similar to that of our camp last evening. We had now traveled 28 miles without taking the loads from our horses or giving them anything to eat, and as the snow where we halted had not much dissolved, there was still but little grass. Among the vegetation we observed great quantities of the white lily" with reflected petals, which " See note ", p. 598, Sept. i6th, and note «, p. 599, Sept. 17th. Streams there noted as passing to the explorers' then right hand, i. e., northward, are here again in mention, and now regarded, no doubt correctly, as affluents of the Chopunnish or N^orth fork of the Kooskooskee. Yet on no contemporaneous map I have seen, does a single such tributary touch the Lo Lo trail. It is true that the Stevens' No. 3, which dots in the 1854 MuUan trail, lays down several such northward streams, but these are only charted at their heads, without any connections lower down. Lewis and Clark's trail in these mountains should be carefully studied in the making of the future correct map of Idaho. " " Yellow lilly," Lewis L 62. Codex also notes : " Potts's legg, which has % I M : ^'''ttl 3 ■;■■ !i n ' 11 ;;ii i 'J II I ^i i 5 ■ *? f 'M ■I frf , t I J 1058 CAMP NEAR END OF THE LONG RIDGE. is now in bloom, and in the same forwardness as it was in the plains on the loth of May. As for ourselves, the whole stock of meat being gone, we distributed to each mess a pint of bear's oil, which, with boiled roots, made an agreeable dish. We saw several black-tailed or mule-deer [Carmcus inacrotis\ but could not get a shot at them, and were mformed that there is an abundance of elk in the valley near the fishery on the Kooskooskee. The Indians also assert that on the mountains to our right are large numbers of what they call white buffalo or mountain sheep [Haplocerus montanus\ Our horses strayed to some distance to look for food, and in the morning, {P-326) June 2%th, when they were brought up, exhibited rather a gaunt appearance. The Indians, however, promised that we should reach some good grass at noon, and we there- fore set out after an early breakfast. Our route lay along the dividing ridge and across a very deep hollow, till at the dis- tance of six miles we passed our camp of the 15th of Septem- ber [1805 : see note ", p. 597]. A mile and a half further we passed the road from the right, immediately on the dividino- ridge, leading by the fishery. We went on, as we had done during the former part of the route, over deep snows ; when having made 13 miles, we reached the side of a mountain just above the fishery; which having no timber and a southern exposure, the snow had disappeared, leaving an abundance of fine grass. Our horses were very hungry as well as fatigued, and as there was no other spot within reach this evening where we could find any food for them, we deter- mined to camp, though it was not yet midday. But as there was no water in the neighborhood, we melted snow for cooking. Sunday, June igth^ We continued along the ridge which we have been following for several days, till at the end of been much swolen and inflamed for several days is much better this evening and gives him but httle pain, we applyed the pounded roots and leaves of the wild ginger from which he found great relief." _ "Clark Q 165, this date describes the " lady-slipper or mockerson flower it IS m shape and appearance much like ours [i. ,., a common orchid of the genus PASSING FROM IDAHO INTO MONTANA. 1059 five miles it terminated ; and bidding adieu to the snows m which we have been imprisoned, we descended to the main branch of the Kooskooskee. On reaching the water- side, we found a deer which had been left for us by two hunters who had been dispatched at an early hour to the warm springs, and which proved a very seasonable addition to our food; for having neither meat nor oil, we were reduced to a diet of roots, without salt or any other addi- tion. At this place, about a mile and a half from the spot where Quamash" creek falls in from the northeast, the Koos- kooskee is about 30 yards wide, and runs with great velocity over a bed which, like those of all the mountain streams, is composed of pebbles. We forded the river and ascended for two miles the steep acclivities of a mountain, on the summit of which we found coming in from the right the old road which we had passed on our route (/. j.?/) last autumn. It was now much plainer and more beaten, which the Indians told us was owing to the frequent visits of the Ootlahshoots from the valley of Clark's river to the fishery, though there was no appearance of their having been here this spring. Twelve miles from our camp we halted to graze our horses on the Quamash flats, on the creek of the same name [Quamash, i. e., Glade creek]. This is a handsome plain of fifty acres in extent, covered with an abundance of quamash, and seems to form a principal stage or camp for the Indians in passing the mountains. We saw here several young pheasants, and killed one of the small black kind, [Dendragapus franklini\ which is the first we have observed below the region of snow. In the neighborhood were also seen the tracks of two barefooted Indians, which our com- panions supposed to be Ootlashoots, who had fled in distress Cypripediutn], only that the corolla is white marked with small veins of a pale red longitudinally on the inner side." This species is Cypripediutn tnontanum. '* Here a new name merely for the Glade creek of note '^ , p. 595, and note ", p. 594: see there. The Quamash flats about to be mentioned in this paragraph are the same as the Quamash glade of p. 1056, June 27th, but of course not the flats named Quamash which were finally left on June 24th. Lewis L 65 notes that to-day's nooning was two miles past the camp of Sept. 13th, m i' ti '' i; it lii ; li . ,.< I060 HOT SPRINGS NEAR TRAVELER'S. "p:sT CREEK. from the Pahkees. Here we discovered that two of the Zl ^dd l"""^' ^c ''"^'°" ^^"^ ^^^° -- [Colter and J Fields] m quest of them, and then went on seven nailes further to the warm springs, where we arrived early in the afternoon. The two hunters [Drewyer and R. Fields] who had been sent forward in the morning had collected no game, nor were several others, who went out after our arrivol more successful. We therefore had a prospect of continu! mg our usual diet of roots, when late in the afternoon the men returned with the stray horses, and a deer for supper These warm springs are situated at the foot of a hiil on the north side of Traveler's-rest creek," which is ten yards wade at this place. They issue from the bottoms,^nd through the mterstices of a gray freestone rock, ;vhich rises in irregular masses round their lower side The principal spring, which the Indians have formed "into a bath by stopping the run with stone and pebbles, is about the same temperature as the warmest bath used cL Id' X "^/^^^ '" ^^'^^"'"- ^" ''-y'^'S' CaPt-'" Lewis could with difficulty remain in it 19 minutes, and then was affected with a profuse perspiration. The two other springs are much hotter, the temperature being equal to that of the warmest of the hot springs (p. j,S) in Virginia. Our men, as well as the Indians, amused them- selves with going into the bath; the latter, according to their universal custom, going f^rst into the hot bath where they remain as long as they can bear the heat' then plunging into the creek, which is now of an icy coldness, and repeating this operation several times, but always ending with the warm bath. « More exactly on the north side of the southern one of two main headwaters which compose this creek : see note »3, p. gg,, ,^^ „„^, ,. J^ em branch is first named Hotspring creek, Lewis L 7. Here we are on e more on a perfectly well known spot, to be found on any fairly good m" Th Exped. .on has to-day crossed over the main divide or ridge of the Bi ter-root mountains, and has consequently passed from Idaho into Montana, but is st 1 on the Pacific watershed. On this point see note », p. 580. II: CHAPTER XXXII. DIVISION OF THE EXPEDITION: CAPTAIN LEWIS' EXPLO- RATION OF BIG BLACKFOOT AND MARIA's RIVERS. Down Traveler's-rest creek to its mouth-Halt to plan and prepare for further operations- Captain Lewis and n^ne men to pursue a direct route to the Missouri, then explore Maria's river-Captain Clark and the rest of the party to go by a new route to the Jefferson, descend this to the Three Forks, and thence proceed with a detachment of this party to explore the Yellowstone, while Sergeant Ordway, with nine men, descends the Missouri the thus separated parties to reunite at or below the mouth of the Yellowstone-Animals and plants of the vicinity-Indian guides to accompany Captain Lewis-The two parties sepa- rate July 3d— Captain Lewis proceeds north down the west side of Clark's river— The Indian guides show the " Kiver of the Road to Buffalo " and depart-Sufferings from mos- quuoes-joined by a Palloatpallah-Up ean branch of Clark's river to the Cokahla- rishkit-Up this river to Werner's creek-Seaman's creek-North fork of the Cokahlarish. kit-Praine of the Knobs-(Hence there is a southerly Indian route to Dearborn's river)— The river followed up to its two forks-That one which goes N. 75° E. taken-The north side of this fork followed for 12 miles ; two ridges crossed N. 150 E. for f jur miles ; a bottom to the right followed for seven miles ; a ridge ascended N. 45° E. through an easy gap-Here IS " Lewis' and Clark's Pass " across the Great Divide-Fort mountain bears N.E. about 20 miles-Camp near a source of Dearborn's river-Shishequaw mountain-Shishequaw crc-k- Medicine river-First buffalo seen on the return journey-Elk and bear shot-Hun- ters sent down Medicine river-Captain Lewis goes to White Bear islands at the head of the Great Falls of the Missouri-Drewyer sent for horses lost-Cache at White Bear islands opened-Drewyer returns with the lost horses-M'Neal's adventure with a bear- Mynads of mosquitoes-Sergeant Gass and his men left here to await Sergeant Ordway's party, wnich is coming down the Jefferson and Missouri-Captain Lewis, with Drewyer and J. and R. Fields, sets out to explore Maria's river-He proceeds N. 10° W. to strike the river at the point to which he ascended it in 1804-Tansy river reached in 20 miles- Vast herds of buffalo-Buffalo creek, a tributary of Maria's river-Maria's river-Hunters sent down this river six miles to the point to which it was ascended in 1804-Captain Lewis proceeds up this river. >jlVONDAY, June 30th, 1806. We dispatched some hun- •^ ters ahead, and were about setting out, when a deer came to lick at the springs; we killed it, and being now pro- vided with meat for dinner, proceeded along [down] the north side of the [Traveler's-rest] creek, sometimes in the bottoms and over the steep sides of the ridge, till, at the distance of 13 miles, we halted at the entrance of a small stream where we had stopped on the 12th of September [see P- 593 ']• Here we observed a road to the right, which the ' "At one mile from the [hot] springs we passed a stout branch of the creek on the north side and at noon having travelled 13 ms. we arrived at the entrance 1061 W m vs li'l -•■i- ■ C 1 f tI 1'l 1 I'd t. J. , i « r M t ■ * ' .'( '' 4- !• ! i f.; n ^'M !.! ji'' •) 1062 " LA CRIQUE DU REPOS DU VOYAGEUR." Indians inform us leads to a fine, extensive valley on Clark's river, where the Shaliees or Ootlashoots occasionally reside After permitting our horses to graze, we went on along a road much better than any we have seen since entering the mountains ; so that before sunset we made 19 [more] miles and reached our old camp » [of Sept. 9th and loth, 1805J on the south side of the creek, near its entrance into C ark s river. In the course of the day we killed six deer, of which there are (p.jjo) great numbers, as well as bighorn and elk, in this neighborhood. We also obtained a small gray squirrel [Sciurus frcmonti ?] like that on the coast of the Pacific, except that its belly was white. Among the plants was a kind of lady's slipper or moccasin-flower \Lyprtpcdmm inontanimi\, resembling that common in the United States, but with a white corolla, marked with longi- tudinal veins of a pale red color on the inner side. Tuesday, July ur We had now made 156 miles* from of asecond Northern branch of thecreek where we had nooned it on the 12th of Sep last, Lewis L 66. For verb " to noon," see Lew Wallace, Ben-Hur, p. 459 » /u»e 30M. We halted for dinner at the same place, where we dined on the i2th of Sept. 1805, as we passed over to the Western Ocean. In the evemng we arrived at [that point on] Travellers'-rest creek where the party rested two days last fall, and where it empties into Flat-head (called Clarke's) nver Gass. p. 232. See pp. 588-592 and notes there, esp. note «<•, p 500 At th,s date Clark Q 166-169, and Lewis L 72, 73. both have the long description of the barking-squirrel or prairie-dog of the Missouri, CynoJ, ludovuianus, which is given in the natural history chapter (No. 27, p. 859) This reduces somewhat the former estimates of 190 or 184 miles from the mouth of Travelers-rest creek to the Chopunnish forks of the Kooskooskee (Canoe camp : see p. 612). It will be useful to give the never-published courses and distances of the return journey, for comparison with those of the outward journey over the same trail. I edit them as concisely as possible from Lewis L 70, 71. From Quamash flats : " East ir ms. to Collins' cr., 25 yds. wide, passing a small prairie at 9 ms.; road hilly, thickly timbered. " N. 45° E. 13 ms. to the crossing of Fish cr., 10 yds. wide, passing a small cr at 6 ms. "N. 750 E. 9 ms. to a small branch of Hungry cr.; road along a ridge with much windfall ; some snow at end of this course. " ■^^V"^" ^^ ^ *"' '° ^"^^ ^'^^'^^ ""^ ^^^ '"^'n branch of Hungry creek • road hilly, some snow. |! S jl .'■ K 4' m CAMP AT MOUTH OF TRAVELER'S-REST CREEK. 1063 the Quamash flats to the mouth of Traveler's-rest creek. This being the point where we proposed to separate, it was resolved to remain a day or two in order to refresh our- selves and the horses, which have borne the journey extremely well and are still in fine order, but require some little rest. We had hoped to meet here some of the Ootla- shoots, but no tracks of them could be discovered. Our Indian companions express much anxiety lest they should have been cut off by the Pahkees during the winter, and mention the tracks of the two barefooted persons as a proof of how much the fugitives must have been distressed. " N. 75" E. 3 ms. down Hungry cr. on its N. side, passing 2 small branches on Its N. side, the ist a' ^ m., the 2d at i^ ms. further. " N. 75C E. 3 ms. still down the N. side of Hungry cr. to the foot of the mtn. passing 3 N. branches and i S. branch of this cr. ' " N. 450 E. 3 ms. to the top of the mtn. where we deposited baggage on the 1 7th June. " N. 45° E. 15 ms. to an open prairie on the side of a mtn., having kept the dividing ridge between waters of the Kooskooskee and Chopunnish rivers. ♦' N. 45° E. 28 ms. to an open prairie on the S. side of mtn., having kept the same dividing ridge, though you ascend many iteep mtns., and descend many deep hollows. " East 3 ms. to the end of a ridge where you descend to a deep hollow ; much windfall from a fire and a S.W. storm. " N. 45" E. 10 ms. along a snowy ridge to a large open hillside, passing at 4}4 ms. the road which turns off to the right and leads by the fishery a* entrance of Colt-killed cr. " N. 45° E. 12 ms. to the Quamash flats at the head of a branch of the Koos- kooskee, passing the Kooskooskee. 35 yds. wide, at 5 ms. on this course, at 7 ms. fell again into the road which leads by the fishery about 4 ms. above the mouth of Quamash [Glade] cr. " N. 4 ms. to the Hotspring cr. or the main branch of Traveler's-rest cr. " N. 20" E. 3 ms. down this branch, to the hot springs on its N. side. " N. 20° E. 3 ms. down the cr., passing a N. branch 8 yds. wide at i m., also the cr. itself twice a short distance below the N. branch. " N. 45' E. 10 ms. down the N. side of Trav, cr., to entrance of another N. branch 8 yds. wide ; a road leads up this branch. " N. 60" E. 9 m. down N. side same cr., to the prairie of this cr. and valley of Clark's river. ' East 9 m. to our camp on S. side of Trav.-r. cr., crossing it i m. above camp and 2 m. above its mouth. » J*< » . >h f" SI 156 miles." i t Jj ! hi 1064 SEPARATE EXPLORATIONS PLANNED. We now formed the followinpr plan of operations:* Captain Lewis, with n! .- men, is to pursue the most direct route to the falls of the Missouri, where three of his party [Thompson, Goodrich, and McNeal] are to bo left to prepare carriages for transporting the baggage and canoes across the portage. With the remaining six,' he will ascend Maria's river to explore the country and ascertain whether any branch of it reaches as far north as latitude 50°, after which he will descend that river to its mouth. The rest of the men will accompany Captain Clark to the head of Jefferson river, which Sergeant Ordway and a party of nine men will descend, with the canoes and other articles depos- ited there. Captain Clark's party, which will then be reduced to ten [men and Sacajawea], will proceed to the Yellow- stone, at its nearest approach to the Three Forks of the Missouri. There he will build canoes, go down that river with seven of his party, and wait at its mouth till the rest of the party join him. Sergeant Pryor, with two others, {P'33i) will then take the horses by land to the Mandans! » Gass' report of this project is (p. 233): " Here the party is to be s^paraied ; some of us are to go straight across to the falls of the Missouri, arnl some to the head waters of Jefferson river, where we left the canoes. At the falls we expect to be subdivided, as Capt. Lewis, myself and four or five men intend to go uo Maria's river as far as the 50th degree of latitude, and a party to remain at the falls to prepare harness and other things necessary for hauling our canoes and baggage over the portage. Perhaps Capt. Clarke, who goes up the [Clark's] river here [at Traveler's-rest] may also take a party and go down the Riviere Jaune, or Yellow-stone river." The sergeant accompanied Captain Lewis to the falls' of the Missouri, but did not go on the exploration of Maria's river, as he was left in charge of the men at the falls. The plan here sketched was carried out to the letter, with the following main exceptions : i. Captain Lewis did not go as far north as 50", nor indeed to 49", as Maria's river w-^ found not to head as far north as he had supposed ; besides, an Indian fight forced him to beat a precipitate retreat to the ^iissouri. 2. Captain Clark and his party descended the Jefferson with Sergeant Ordway's detachment, before he went over to the Yellowstone by v/ay of the Gallat-n. 3. The project devised for Sergeant Pryor was defeated by the Crows, who s ^le all his horses. » " I now called for the volunteers to a, .ompany me on this rout, many turned out, 'om whom I scelected Drewyer, the two Fieldses, Werner, Frazier, and Sergt. Gass," Lewis L 68. But the last three of these were left at the falls'. VU U mi A LOCAL FAUNA. 1065 From that nation he will go to the British posts on the Assiniboin with a letter to Mr. [Alexander] Henry,' to pro- cure his endeavors to prevail on some of the Sioux chiefs to accompany him to the city of Washington. Having made these arrangements, this and the f<:)llowing day [July 2d'\ were employed in hunting and [by Shields in] repairing our arms. We were successful in procuring a number [13] of fine large deer, the flesh of which was exposed to dry. Among other animals in this neighbor- hood are the dove [Zcnaidura carolincnsis\ black wood- pecker lAsyndesmns torqnatus], lark-woodpecker [Colaptes mexicanus\\ogcock {Ccophkviis pileattis], prairie-lark lErem- ophila alpcstr-^ van], sand-hill crane {^Grus canadensis], prairie-hen with the short and pointed tail ^PedicBcetes columbianHs\ the robin IMerula inigratoria\ a species of brown plover ^Podasocys montanus .?] a few curlews, small blackbirds [cowbirds, Molothriis ater\ ravens, hawks, and a variety of sparrows, as well as the bee-martin {Tyrannus carolinensis,'] and several species of Corvus. The mosquitoes have been excessively troublesome since our arrival. The Indians assert that there are great numbers of the white buf- falo or mountain sheep [Haplocerus montanus'], on the snowy heights of the moun'iains west of Clark's river. They gener- ally inhabit the rocky and most inaccessible parts of the mountains; but they are not fleet, and easily killed by hunters. The plants which most abound in this valley are the wild ' " Mr. Henry," interlined " Haney," Lewis L 69. This is the " Mr. Haney " of p. 212 : see note 36 there. He is no other than the famous Alexander Henry, (the Fort Henry and Lake Henry man, who was drowned at mouth of the Colum! bia in 1 81 1 or 18 14, and was the nephew of another Alexander Henry;. Through the kindness of the Rev. Dr. Edw. D. Neill, of Macalester College, St. Paul, Minn., I have lieen favored with the valuable unpublished MS., fcp. pp. i-i86,' of this Mr. Henry, giving the history „f his visit to the Mandans, July 7th to Aug. 14th, i8o6, thus in the interval between Lewis and Clark's leaving and returning to these Indians. It is full of interesting matter which has never seen the light, and has a good deal to say of our explorers besides. « At date of July 1st, 1806, Clark Q 165 has ; " The Indians inform us that there are a great number of White Buffaloe, or Mountain Sheep of the snowy heights of the mountains, west of Clark's river." q ivi I k ii I %'■ i\ m ! ir 1 ?:' 1 ! i '■ 1066 DIVISION OF THE EXPEDITION. rose, the honeysuckle with a white berry, the sevenbark, scrvicc-berry, elder, aspen, alder, choke-cherry, and both the narrow- and broad-leaved willow. The principal timber con- sists of long-leaved pine, which grows as well in the river- bottoms as on the hills ; the firs and larches are confined to the higher parts of the hills; while on the river itself is a growth of Cottonwood, with a wider leaf than that of the upper part of the Missouri, though narrower than that which grows lower down that river. There are also two species of clover in this valley ; one with a very narrow, small leaf and a pale red flower ; the other with a white flower, and nearly as luxuriant in its growth as our red clover. The Indians who had accompanied us intended leaving us in order to seek their friends, the Ootlashoots ; but we (/• JJ^) prevailed on them to accompany Captain Lewis a part of his route, so as to show him the shortest road to the Missouri, and in the meantime amused them with conver- sation and running races, on foot and with horses, in both of which they proved themselves hardy, athletic, and active. To the chief Captain Lewis gave a small medal and a gun, as a reward for having guided us across the mountains ; in return the customary civility of exchanging names passed between them, by which the former acquired the title of Yomekollick, or White Bearskin Unfolded.' The Chopun- nish, who had overtaken us on the 26th, made us a present of an excellent horse for the good advice we gave him, and as a proof of his attachment to the whites, as well as of his desire to be at peace with the Pahkees. /u/jf id. All our preparations being completed, we sad- dled our horses, and the two parties, who had been so long companions, now separated with an anxious hope of soon meeting, after each had accomplished the destined purpose.'" •So the Biddle text; but Lewis L 74 has : "I was called Yo-me-kol-lick which interpreted is the -white bearskin foalded" "> The narrative here divides in two. Captain Lewis' continues through the present and the following chapter ; then Captain Clark's occupies the next two chapters. The two parties were separated for more than a month— July 3d to August 1 2th. The beginning of the present narrative of Captain Lewis' ex- lii ^f. ^ < \\\ if • rf. CAPTAIN LEWIS PROCEEDS TO MISSOULA RIVER. 1 067 The nine men and five Indians who accompanied Captain Lewis proceeded in a direction due north, down the west side of Clark's river. Half a mile from camp we [had] forded Traveler's-rest creek, and 2>^ miles further passed a western branch of the [main fork of Clark's, /. v., St. Mary's or the Bitter-root] river; a mile beyond this was a small creek on the eastern side [of the same], and a mile lower down, the entrance of the eastern [Hellgate] branch of the [same] river. This stream [Hellgate river] is from 90 to 125 yards wide; and its water, which is discharged through two channels, is more turbid than that of the main river. The latter is 150 yards in width, and waters an extensive level plain and prairie, which on their lower parts are ornamented with lontr- leaved pine and Cottonwood, while the tops of the hills are covered with pine, larch, and fir. We proceeded two miles further to a place where the Indians advised us to cross ; ploration occupies Codex L 75-81, July 3d and 4th. Then the codex is blank to P- 99. July 15th. For some reason not evident, the narrative of July 5th-i4th was never copied by Lewis into this " red book." Most fortunately, however we have it on the loose sheets of note-paper on which it was originally penned in the field-the very sheets he had in his pocket when he started on this trip They are in bad order, ragged on the edges and much stained-I suppose from the wetting they got when Captain Lewis fell into the river, as noted beyond This most precious of all the fragmentary codices, now forming Codex La I also call the " Pass Codex," because it gives the discovery of the famous pass now known as Lewis and Clark's, which Captain Lewis and his men made July 7tli. I shall cite it fully, and it will set at rest forever some doubtful points which have occasioned much discussion. As a climax of good luck I find furthermore, a never-published sketch map of Lewis' whole route from Traveler's! rest creek through the Pass to the Missouri. This invaluable map, plotted by Captain Clark from Captain Lewis' courses and distances, etc., in Codex La occupies Clark N 149, 150-two pages of one of the " red books." facing each other, and when laid out flat measuring 14}^ x 4^ inches. T/tis is the map mentioned m note \ p. 802. It is full of detail, and gives a clearer idea of Captain Lewis' trail than can be derived from any published map whatsoever. Aside from this, the best map I know of from which to study the route along Big Blackfoot river to the Pass and beyond, is the large one of Governor Stevens' (see " Route of Lt. Donelson in 1853," as there laid down, with various collateral routes. Cadotte's Pass. etc.). But this is not to be compared for detail with Clark's pen-and-ink sketch. The G. L. O. of 1892, Montana, and the rnilit. map, Dept. Dakota. 1891. give the most detail of any I have examined. if h MP I] !', II H ''■ I 1.1 H i i 1068 ACROSS THE MISSOULA AND UP HELLGATE RIVER. but having no boats, and timber being scarce, four hours were spent in collecting timber to make th^ee small (p ???^ rafts ; on which, with some difficulty and danger, we passed the nver [t.e., crossed the Missoula itself, from west to east below the confluence of St. Mary's and Hellgate rivers]. We then drove our horses into the water ; they swam to the opposite shore, but the Indians crossed on horseback, draw- ing at the same time their baggage alongside of them in small basms of deer-skins. The whole party being now re- as^sembled we continued [up the Missoula and the north side of Hellgate river] for three miles and camped about sun- set at a small [Hellgate] creek." The Indians now showed >' Emptying into Hellgate river from the north, four or five miles due west of M.ssoula Cty. The route of July 3d is perfectly plain, but the 2 L^ 7Zu[ some . „.iles from camp on S . K l^ r ^' ^ ""■ "''■°"Sh a handsome level plain to the point at which the east branch [Hellgate] enters the mountain or where the hills se in nea it z:^'' f:- on? '^'r; ^-'^ ^-^■^'-p-^ ^ -'- ^^- °^ ^^^ ---i;; 7Z camp da 'the °"^V" , "u°: ''"' "'^" ""'''' "^^'"S ^^^ ^I--'^- -d camped at the mall creek wh:ch there makes in from the north. The e^d of e TuT;::;"' H "^ "" ^'^ °' ^''-"^^ ^''>'' ^°"^ - «- -■>- ^-^her east see July 4th. Codex La r, written on the spot, has the identical courses and djs ances. but ca Is the east branch of Clark's river, i. ., Hellgate, by Te ame ofHe^lL ''""r'""^ '''': ^o-d to buffalo " he was to take was only a branch ^o "av wrfiT "T ''"'' ''°" '""'"^ -^S^'" *° ^"^- L. for incidents of iunnT 7- .r" ''■ \ '" '''°""'°^ "'^ '*^^"^S<^°f ^he Missoula on rafts, d nng wh,ch Captain Lewis was swept overboard : " I remained myself with wo men who could scarcely swim until! the last ; by this time the raft by passing so frecjuent y had fallen a considerable distance down the [Missoula] r'ver o a rapid and difficult part of it crouded with several small islands and wi io v Ws which were now overflown ; wit. these men I set out on the raft and aJsoon hurried down with the current a mile and a half before we made shor on ou^ approach to the shore the raft sank and I was drawn off the raft by a br'ush and im lit i ( 'THE RIVER OF THE ROAD TO BUFFALO. 1069 US a road at no great distance, which they said would lead up the [north bank of the] eastern [Hellgate] branch of Clark's river, and [thus to] another river called Cokalahishkit [elsewhere Cohahlarishkit], or River of the Road to Buffalo, thence to Medicine river and the falls of the Missouri. They added that, not far from the dividing ridge of the waters of Clark's river and the Missouri, the roads forked ; and though both led to the falls, the left-hand route was the best. The route was so well beaten that we could no longer mistake it ; and having now shown us the way, they were anxious to go in quest of their friends, the Shahlees [or Shallees] ; besides which they feared, by venturing further with us, to en- counter the Pahkees ; for we had this afternoon seen a fresh track of a horse, which they supposed to be a Shahlee scout. We could not insist on their remaining longer with us ; and as they had so kindly conducts, us across the mountains, we were desirous of giving them a supply of provisions ; we therefore distributed to them half of three deer, and the hunters were ordered to go out early in the morning in hopes of adding to the stock. The horses suffered so dreadfully from the mosquitoes that we were obliged to kindle large fires and place the poor ani- swam on shore the two men remained on the raft and fortunately effected a landing at some little distance below. I wet the chronometer by this accident which I had placed in my fob as I conceived for greater security. I now joined the party, and we proceeded with the Indians about 3 ms. to a small creek and encamped at sunset." With this narrative compare for distances, etc., the account of July 3d given by Gass, p. 234 : " Captain Lewis and his party went down Clarke's river, and Captain Clarke with the rest of the party went up it. We proceeded on down Clarke's river about twelve miles, [which is about right] when we came to the forks [confluence of Hellgate with St. Mary's river], and made three rafts to carry ourselves and baggage over. The river here is about 150 yards wide, and very beautiful. We had to make three trifo with our rafts, and in the evening got all over safe ; when we moved on up the north [Hellgate] branch, which is on our way over to the falls of the Missouri, and after travelling a mile and a half camped for the night, . . This north branch of the river is called by the natives Is-quet-co-qual-la, which means the road to the buffalo." Gass here transposes the syllables of this Indian name : reversed it would be Co-qual-la-is-quet, the Cokalahishkit of the L. and C. text, which Gass, like Lewis La, takes the main Hellgate river to be. 'M: ! I*, H! ih'. 1,'f f \ ^ , ill 1 .'■ *'■ f ■ ; ■. \ 1 r J 1070 FAREWELL TO THE GUIDES. mals in the midst of the smoke. Fortunately, however, it became cold after dark, and the mosquitoes disappeared. Friday, July ^th. The hunters accordingly set out ; but re- turned unsuccessful about eleven o'clock. In the meantime we were jomed by a young man of the Palloatpallah'" tribe who had set out a few days after us, and had followed us alone across the mountams-the same who had attempted to pass the mountains in June, while we were on the Koos- koos- (/. jj^) kcc, but had been obliged to return We now smoked a farewell pipe with our estimable companions who expressed every emotion of regret at parting with us •' which they felt the more, because they did not conceal theii^ fears of our being cut off by the Pahkees. We also gave them a shirt, a handkerchief, and a small quantity of ammu- nition The meat which they received from us was dried and left at this place, as a store during the homeward jour- ney Th,s circumstance confirms our belief that there is no route along Clark's river to the Columbian plains so near or so good as that by which we came; for, though these people mean to go for several days' journey down that river, to ook for the Shalees [Shallees or Shahlees : see note anteh, p. 1056, and see Ootlashoots, p. 582], yet they intend returning home by the same pass of the mountains through which they have conducted us. This route is also used by all the nations whom we know west of the moun- tams who are in the habit of visiting the plains of the Missouri ; while on the other side all the war-paths of the Pahkees which fall into this valley of Clark's river concenter at Travelers-rest, beyond which these people have never ventured to the west. ""The band [of the Chopunnish nation] with which we have been most conversant call themselves pel-lote-pal-ler." Lewis L ^2 "A Zl V!, T lotepenows." interlined •• Pelloatpa.lahs... Lewis L '8^\hest Z:.^^Zt Shahap.an tnbe ; the name is from Tlpelekc. a Chihalish word tranlt d (;^2' U iTr ^TiT:"r '"'^ ^--^P-'^-S ^'^--^ word is Git^^ .' rf t u" ^"'- ^"^"°1-) Compare " Selloatpallah 3,000 Souls," cha ted bv Clark on the north bank of the Snake near the Columbia ^ The Northern Pacific Railroad now passes by this route. CAMP AT MOUTH OF BIG BLACKFOOT RIVER. 1071 Having taken leave of the Indians, we mounted our horses and proceeded up the eastern [Hellgate] branch of Clark's river through the level plain in which we were camped. At the distance of five miles we crossed a small creek'* 15 yards wide, and entered the mountains. The [Hellgate ''] river is here closely confined within the hills for two miles [further], when the bottom widens into an extensive prairie, and the river is 1 10 yards in width. We went three miles further, over a high plain succeeded by a low and level prairie, to the en- trance of the Cokalahishkit." This river empties from the '* Site of Missoula City, Mont. , county town of county of same name, at the mouth of Rattlesnake creek, on N. bank of Hellgate river, about halfway between the mouth of this river and the mouth of the Cokalahishkit or Big Blackfoot river which falls into Hellgate river from the N.E. The place just east of the city where the river is confined in a sort of cafion for two miles, as the text says, is the Hellgate or Hell's Gate which gives name to the river, and the name is thus explained by some : Father De Smet left his St. Mary's (Bitter-root) valley Aug i6th, 1846, and camped that night at the mouth of Big Blackfoot river. He went by \\..y of this defile, which he called Porte de r/u.-fer (Gate of Hell), as he says, from its being " the principal entrance by which' parties of marauding Blackfeet reach the lands of our neophytes." This sounds reasonable enough especially in connection with the name, "Big Blackfoot." of the river along which came from the buffalo-country the heathen wolves upon the lamblike or sheepish converts of the good shepherd's flock. For each of the rivers here in mention, see next notes. " The river so named, probably from the circumstance given in the last note is that large stream, some 130 miles long, whose confluence with the Bitter-root or St. Mary's river composes the Missoula, a little distance west of Missoula City It runs in Deer Lodge Co., at first northerly, then westerly to enter Missoula Co., and with its numerous tributaries drains the S.E. portion of the large area between the main Rocky Mountain and the Bitter-root ranges. It heads in the former range, with Missourian waters ; its principal valley is Deer Lodge, so called as being a long famous resort of such game ; one of its most notable branches is Little Blackfoot river (falling in at Garrison, below Deer Lodge City), which heads in and about Mullan's Pass, by which the railroad comes west- ward from Helena. The largest tributary is the Big Blackfoot, the mouth of which Captain Lewis is now approaching, and up which he goes : see next note •«Name of the " river of the road to buffalo" variant in the text, and still more so in tiie codices ; usually as here spelled. This river is now called the Blackfoot. and distinctively Big Blackfoot. It heads in the main Rocky moun- tarns, about Lewis and Clark's, Cadotte's, and other defiles, by several affluents ; runs with a general course nearly due west, though very crookedly, and falls into the Hellgate from the N.E. a little east of the gorge called Hellgate, some > J'f 1! Ill m t < *■ Mw^Katiu^U-'iSCUff ■^iiJ_- . :j i !: I 7,i'i t .j'l I; ;: ■I:i '! i i ^'' I \ 8; f 1072 COKALAHISHKIT OR BIG BLACKFOOT RIVER. Which' h!' " f '^' T^'f' '"^ '^°"' ^° y^'"^' ^^^^' -'^h banks which, though not high, are sufficiently bold to prevent the water from overflowing. The eastern branch of Clark's river IS 90 yards wide above the junction, but below it ?rtVir' /'^^ -^t-^ °f both are turbid, though the Cokaiahishkit IS (p.jjj) the clearer of the two ; the beds of Doth are composed of sand and gravel, but neither of them IS navigable on account of the rapids and shoals which strlams t ""'"'^ . ^^'°" '''' J"-^-" ^^ ^hese streams, the country had been bare of trees; but as we turned up the north branch of [Hellgate river-that is, up" le Cokalahishkit we found a woody country, though ^he Ills were high and the low grounds narrow and poor. At he distance of eight miles in a due east course we camped m a bottom, where there was an abundance of excellent grass. The evening proved fine and pleasant, and we were no longer annoyed by mosquitoes. Our only game were two squirrels, one of the kind common to the Rocky mountains the secoH a ground-squirrel of a species we had not seen before. Near the place where we crossed Clark's river we savv at a distance some wild horses ; which are said, indeed to be very numerous on this river, as well as on the heads ot the Yellowstone. /^//JS^/'^. Early in the morning we proceeded for VA miles, in a direction N. 75- E.; then inclining to the south/' Zfoi tt°H f TT '' "" """ "^•"- '^'^^ ^'S ^'-l^^-' 'J-i- northerly parts of the Hellgate basin ; its valley is about 75 miles lone with a width of .ron, ha f a ,.i,e to twelve miles. See note at Prlfrie of the £: , e Hel.it' it LTT ''':'}'r''^ ^'- Cokalahishkit ,s the non'h branch of Hellgate mer, and has Uself no north branch here which could be gone up Th ,. aln the text. Camp is on tlie north side of the Big iackfoo"' nt the chstance saul above its mouth. The third return of the Founh of fulv h suffered to pass without allusion to this anniversary ^ ^ '« Read north-the inclination was from N. 75' E. to N. 25° E., Lewis La 3. f i WERNER'S AND OTHER CREEKS. 1073 crossed an extensive, beautiful, and vvell-watered valley nearly 12 miles in length, at the extremity of which we halted for dmner." Here we obtained a great quantity of quamash and shot an antelope from a gang of females, which at this season herd together, apart from the bucks. After dinner we followed the course of the river eastward for six miles, to the mouth of a creek 35 yards wide, which we called Werner's*- creek. It comes in from the north, and waters a high, extensive prairie, the hills near which are low, and sup- plied with the long-leaved pine, larch, and some fir. The road then led N. 22° W. for four miles,^' soon after which It again turned N. 75'' E. for 2% miles, over a handsome plain watered by Werner's creek, to the river; this we fol- lowed on its eastern direction, through a high prairie, rendered very unequal by a vast number of little hillocks " No fewer than/zr creeks are passed before dinner and thus before Werner's creek ,s reached-a]l duly noted on Lewis La 3, and duly charted on Clark N 150, but omitted from the text ! La 3 has : " Set out at 6 A.M.-steered N 75O E. 3K m. passed a stout C. [on] N. side at 2^ m. another on S. side at 3^ m' N. as-^ L. 12 m. passing a small creek at one m. on S. side, . . . also another creek 12 yds. wide at ^ a mile further on N. side, and another 8 yds wide on N side at 5 ms. further. One >^ m. short of the extremity of this course arrive at a high prane on N. side from one to three mnes in width extending up the river halted and dmed in the mouth of a little drane on the left of the plain " One of these two creeks on the S., between the f.rst two on the N., is Union creek • on this IS a place called Potomac. I can find no names for any of the other four- three of them N. and one S. Further along the river, on the boundary between Missoula and Dec, Lodge Co., before Werner's creek is reached. Elk creek falls in from the S., on vhich are places called Sunset and Yreka «» Named for Private William Werner of the party : compare p. 303 This is the largest branch of Big Blackfoot river thus far reached, and the first one i.rmed by Captain Lewis; it is the Clearwater river of G. L O 1802 an^ apparently " Littlewater cr." of Symons. With it are connected several sheets of water, one of them called Clearwater lake. >" " To a high insulated knob just above the entrance of a creek 8 yards wi 1074 seaman's creek— north fork— prairie of knobs. and sink-holes, and at three miles' distance camped near (AJJ^) the entrance of a large creek, 20 yards wide, to which we gave the name of Seaman's" creek. We had seen no Indians, though near camp were the concealed fires of a war-party, who had passed about two months ago. /u/j' 6th. A.t sunrise we continued our course eastward along the river. At seven miles' distance we passed the North fork" of the Cokalahishkit, a deep and rapid stream 45 yards in width, and like the main branch itself somewhat turbid, though the other streams of this country are clear. Seven miles further the river enters the mountains, and here end those extensive prairies on this side, though they widen in their course toward the southeast, and form an Indian route to Dearborn's river [see beyond], and thence to the Missouri. From the multitude of knobs irregularly scat- tered through them. Captain Lewis called this country the Prairie of the Knobs.'* They abound in game, as we saw « A name I believe not found elsewhere in this History, and to the personality of which I have no clew. " East 3 m. to the entrance of a large creek 20 yds. wide called Seaman's Creek, passing a creek at i m. 8 yds. wide," Lewis La 4. Here are two creeks within three miles of each other, the first and smallest namel less, both N.; " at the head of thesfi two creeks high broken mountains stand at the distance of 10 m. forming a kind of cove generally of open untimbered country," Lewis La 4. The codex-map, Stevens, and the G. L. O. 1S92, agree exactly in laying down these two creeks, the larger of which Clark N 150 letters "Seamons"; this is that whose main west fork the G. L. O. letters "Stanley cr.," it is the Clear creek of Symons, and apparently " Moncure cr." of Dept. Dakota map. Camp is on it, near a place marked Woodworth by Symons. (Be- yond Seaman's creek is one unnoted by L, and C, charted nameless by Stevens and marked " Lightning Cr." on the G. L. O.; 0,1 a branch of this is Ovanda.)' 2» Salmon Trout creek of Stevens' large map and of present geography— the largest northern affluent of the Big Blackfoot. " Passed the N, fork of the Cokahlarishkit River at 7 ms. it is 45 yards wide deep and rapid, had some difficulty in passing it. Passed a large crooked pond at 4 ms. further," Lewis La 4. This pond is charted on Clark N 150, but I have not seen it elsewhere. =* " These plains I called [" knob plains " erased] the prarie of the knobs from'a number of knobs being irregularly scattered through it," Lewis La 4. This area later became known as the Blackfoot prairie ; also, as Stevens' prairie, having been crossed by some of Governor L L Stevens' party in 1853-55 : see P.R.R. Rep. Xn. pt. i. i860, p. 121. Governor Stevens twice passed along in Captain Lewis' tracks, and under date of July 20th, 1855, we find him payinjj the tribute he i THE RIVER AND THE ROAD BOTH FORK. 1075 antelopes, deer, great numbers of burrowing-squirrels, some curlews, bee-martins, woodpeckers, plovers, robins, doves, ravens, hawks, ducks, a variety of sparrows, and yesterday observed swans on Werner's creek. Among the plants we observed the southernwood, and two other species of shrubs, of which we preserved specimens. On entering the high grounds we followed the course of the river through the narrow bottoms, thickly timbered with pine and cottonwood intermixed, and variegated with the bois-rouge [redwood], which is now in bloom, the com- mon small blue flag, and pepper-grass. At a distance of 31^ miles we rc;iched the two forks" of the river mentioned by the Indians They are nearly equal in width, and the road itself here I'orks and follows each of them. We followed that which led us in a direction N. yt^'^ E., over a steep high hill, then along a wide bottom to a thickly wooded side of a hill, where the low grounds are narrow, till we reached a large creek,'" eight miles from the forks and 25 from our last camp. Here we halted for the night [in the vicinity of Lin- coln]. In the course of the day the track of the In- {p. 337) never grudged : " As I moved up the valley I began to realize the fidelity of the description of Lewis and Clark, who speak of the whole prairie of the Blackfoot, over which our day's journey led to-day, as the Prairie of the Knobs. On a map of the usual scale, these knobs or little ridges are too small to be represented, as the slightest mark on the map would exaggerate them," P.R.R. Rep. XII. pt. i. i860, p. 212. " Before reaching the two forks, and within two miles of them, Lewis La 6 notes " a creek on N. side 12 yds. wide, shallow and clear." The alleged situ- ation of these forks, where the road also forked, does not correspond closely with that in which they are laid down on any map before me, on all of which the forks seem to be considerably lower. Clark N 150 charts hvo sizable streams coming into Big Blackfoot from the S.E.— one falling in opposite the " crooked pond " above mentioned, the other about in position to correspond to the " two forks " of our text. The former of these is the stream laid down on modern maps as Nevada creek, heading with some northern affluents of Little Blackfoot river, and connecting on the main divide with some affluents of Little Prickly- pear creek (see note '», p. 422), near which is Marysville. **« This " large creek " is one of several into which the main stream now breaks up within a few miles. Camp is on its west bank " some little distance above its mouth," Lewis La 6, in the vicinity of a place called Lincoln. The creek is >, mi HI I, "J I' I ; :r-, I ', !| u n I 1076 THE APPROACH TO THE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE. dians, whom we supposed to be Pahkees, continued to grow fresher, and we passed a number of old lodges and camps At seven o'clock the next morning, Monday July yth," we proceeded through a beautiful plain [Belly prairie] on the north side of the river, which seems hen: to abound in beaver. The low grounds possess much timber, and the hills are covered chiefly with pitch-pine, that of the long-leaved kind having disappeared since we left the Prairie of the Knobs. thus identified though I have no name for it. It is a good ways short of Lan- ders creek. As Captain Lewis will cross the Continental Divide to-morrow I g.ve Gass account, p^ 236. of the approach to the famous " Lewis and Clark-; r.K n . f ""^ '='°"' ''''°"' '*"^"" '""^^ ^"^ <=rossed a n- .x branch of the Coqual-la-.squet, which is 40 yards wide and was mid-rib deep on our horses, with a rapid current. About seven miles up the valley [Prairie of Knobsl we passed a beaut.ul small lake [the " crooked pond "J ; where the river and road leaves the valley and bears towards the northeast between two hills not very large. \\ e kept up the river, through a small brushy valley about the eighth of a mile wide, for a mile and a half, and then halted for dinner At i o clock we proceeded on, passed a number of handsome streams which fall into the nver, and a number of old Indian lodges. As we advance the valley becomes more extensive, and is all plain. At night we encamped on a beauli- ful creek, having travelled 25 miles." "Lewis La 6, 7. this date : " N. 75° E. 6 m. with the road through a level bea, full plain on the north side of the river. . . crossed a branch of the creek fe yds. wide on which we [were] encamped at % m. also passed a creek 15 yards ^o oL t'l.^ T T T " °" '^' wrighthand side through handsom plain bottoms to the foot of a ndge which we ascended the main stream boar [bore] N W. and W. as far as I could see it a wright hand fork falls into chis [main creek at I m. above the commencement of this course. [N.B. This "main creek" IS Lander's creek of Stevens' and modern maps. It leads toward but not into N. 15 E 8 m. es over two ndges [away f,o., Lander's creek] and again striking cL^^"^;;' pt " ' T '^^" ^°"'""^'^ "^" '' °" '^^ left'handTest !\; "u E 3 m. up the same creek on the east side [of it. having crossed It at the beginning of this course], through a handsome narrow plain N 4 » E. 2 m. passing the dividing ridge between the waters of the Columbia and Mil sour, rivers at ^ of a mile, from this gap which is low and an easy ascent on the W. side the fort mountain bears North East, and appears to be distant about 20 miles. The road for one and U miles decends the'hills and cont nu down a branch [of an affluent of Dearborn's river]. N. 20° W. 7 ms. over sev- If! ;i £ THE MAKING OF LEWIS AND CLARK'S PASS. I077 At the distance of twelve miles we left the river, or rather thejreek, and having for four miles crossed, in a direction N. 15 h.tzvo ridges, again struck to the right, which we fol. lowed through a narrow bottom, covered with low willozvs and grass, and abundantly supplied with both deer and beaver After seven miles we reached the foot of a ridge, which we ascended tn a direction N. ^5° £., through a low gap of easy ascent from the westward, and on descending it were delighted todtscover that this was the dividing ridge between the waters of the Columbia and those of the Missouri. L-i" triDutanes of Dearborn s river] runninij to the wriL'ht en mped on a .s..all run under the foot of the mountain." It :^^, be observed" th,s account ,s n,uch more detailed and precise than the published text par U.ularly ,n the sentences I have italicized, hitherto our main guid to and h ou,h th,s Pass. The actual trail is luminouson Clark N 150, wh e th word Gap :nd.cates the Pass. The Gass Journal of course anteda ed the tZ^ so far as publication was concerned. nisiory, Gass makes the Pass in these terms D 216 • " r^„f;., a along the valle, which is ver, ^^^^.^^^ZJ^^;^ Having go,.e about five miles, we crossed the main [Lander's] bran h oh" nyer, which comes m from the north; and up which the road goes abou five m. es further and then takes over a hill towards the east. On th top of tJi hill there are two beautiful ponds, of about three acres in size We passed ov^ the ridge and struck a small stream, which we at first thought' waJof' he he d Mevens see below.] Here we halted for dinner, and after staying three hours came to a fin ..'''"°"" -^'Columbia; passed over the ridge and came to a fine spring, the waters of which run into the Missouri. We then kept side of the hviding ndge for 8 miles, passing a number of small streams or ^::^::^:^ "-^^°-'^ --^^ -^ ^^ ^ ^'--^ - -.^t enr;ed: and hence the main creek " of our text, which leads up toward but nL "n o i^' was dedicated to him by Governor Stevens ; see P. R. R^. Rep. XII. pt i. 86 ,' p. 122 The Pass was also made by Mr. James Doty in July, 1854 en route from Fort Benton to Fort Owen and return : ./. .// pp x86 8, Mr n named Lander's creek. Both gentlemen were o'f Gov'erTor Stev n •' par ' On July 22d. 1855, Governor .Stevens himself approached the Pass fTom t le'we^t de^nng to establish certain connections which his assistants had 1 e^ to be n^i 1 ' Going up the valley ,/, miles he came to a small creek which he supposed fWd jrl !k: m If b :r. II -!•'■ ■tl u \ i 1 If I mm NORTH FORK OF DEARBORN'S RIVER. From this gap Fort mountain is about 30 miles in a north- eastern direction. We now wound through the hills and hollows of the mountains, passing several rivulets which run to the right, .1:... a. the distance ot nine miles from the gap camped, aiUr n. il.hig 32 miles. We procured some beaver, and this morning saw some signs and tracks of buffalo, from which it seems those animals do sometimes penetrate to a short distance within the mountains. July %th. At three miles from our camp we reached a stream" issuing from the mountains to the southwest; though it only contains water for a width of 30 feet, yet its from the Pass, but which on the contrary soon gave out. Even this rivulet is charted on Clark N 150 / Continuing northward Governor Stevens soon f, '! into the trail which passed from Lander's creek to the stream which did flow from the Pass, and of which he was in search. His Report says : " Starting now from the point where the trail from Lander's Fork strikes the stream flowing from Lewis and Clark's Pass, we continued up the latter Mream for hve miles, passing over the mo.t remarkable valley that I have ever seen in the immediate region of a mountain divide. [Plate Ixii. represents this valley ] Its width and the declivities of the ground were remarkably uniform ; the vall.v not less than half a mile wide ; the bottom-excepting a small portion of the lower part, where were beaver dams-always above the freshets, until we came to a point where I halted for a few moments in order to observe with the barometer Here there wa> a fork in the stream, the ; a hand branch coming immeduitely from Lewis and Clark's Pass, and the larger and right hand fork coming from the north some little distance, judging from the quantity of water in the stream We now kept up the left hand fork, and passed over Lewis and Clark's Pass' where many observations were taken, both of the immediate basis of the^livide on either slope and at the summit. This divide can be arranged for wagon roads with gentle declivities on either side. Little or no timber would have to be cut away. We found grass on both sides of the mountain, as well as near its summit. Going down the eastern base on our right, and some little distance below the trail, was a fine stream of water, a tributary of the Dearborn and about a mile and a quarter from the summit we came to another tributary' con- necting with this, coming from the north. It is on this tributary that a raUroad line must be laid in order to tunnel the mountain in the shortest and most prac- ticable line." (P. R. R. Rep. XII. Pt. i. i860, pp. 213-215,) ''^ Main course of the North fork of Dearb. rn's river, Lewis La 8 : " N. 25' W VA m. to the top of a hill from thence we saw the Shisheqt nv mountain about 8 m. distant, immediately before us. Passed [" Torrenf' erased and interlined! Dearborne's river at 3 m." This explains "we called it Dearborn's river " in the text-for this was named July iSth, 1805 : sec p. 421. It means that Captain Lewis did not know this was a fork of Dearborn's river, and therefore gave it a f % SHISMEQUAW MOUNTAIN AND CREEK. 1079 bed is more than three times that width, and from the appear- ance of the roots and trees in the neighboring bottom, must sometimes run with great violence. We called it Dearborn's river. Half a mile further we observed from a height Shish- equaw" mountain, a hi^h, insulated moun- {p.jjS) tair^ of a conic form, standing several miks in advance of the eastern range of the Rocky mountains, here about eight miles from us and immediately on our road, which was in a northwest direction. Bu. as our object was to strike Medicine [Sun] river, and hunt down to its mouth i ) procure skins for the food '" and gear necessary for the three men who are to be left at the falls, none of whom are hunters, we determined to leave the road. We therefore proceeded due north through an open plain, till we reached Shishequaw creek, a stream about 20 yards wide, with a considerable quantity of timber in ;ts low grounds. Here we halted and dined, and now felt, by the luxury of our food, that we were approaching once more the plains of the Missouri, so rich in game. We saw a great number of deer, antelope, goats, wolves, and some barking-squirrels, and for the first time caught a distant prospect of two buffaloes. After dinner we followed the Shishequaw for 6>.; miles [thus past Augusta and Florence], to Its entrance into Medicine river, and went along the new nnme-Turrent river-which was suppressed when the Hnal determination was ma 'e. But this is an appropriate name for the Nortli fork. «Mleart mountain of Stevens' large map, now known as Haystack Butte standing between two forks 'Smitli's and Elk) of the Soutli fork of Me.licinc or Sun river ; places called Cecil and Racine VonX in the vicinity Shisheqi v creek of the text is this South fork, which C .tain Lewis strikes at or near town of Augusta and follows down io its mouth. Siiishequaw mountain has some- times been thought to be that isolated l.utle now called Tip-top mountain by which a certain Spring creek passes to fall into Sun river. But this is much further east. Captain Lewis held a trail nearly north from the Pass-one course in.?eed. being given as N. 25' W. .See the position of "Shishequaw K " oii C .rk s map of 1S14. The trail there ,i. ,ttcd is not that by which Captain Lewis came, but a ,horter hypothetical one, dotted on Clark N 140 with the words • "This IS the nearest and best rout," and finally "adopted " as the n t,. of the E.xpedition. See Stevens' pi. Ixiii, at points marked a and b. '» .%— read, " in order to procure the necessary skins to make geer [boat-gearl and meat for the three men," etc., Lewis La 9. % ,., .: .1- ' !, f ill- 1080 THE ROUTE ALONG MEDICINE OR SUN RIVER. banks [south bank] of this river for eight miles, when we camped" on a largo island. The bottom continued low. level, and extensive ; the plains too are level ; but the soil of neither is fertile, as it consists of a light-colored earth, intermixed with a large proportion of gravel ; the grass in both IS generally about nine inches high. Captain Lewis here shot a large and remarkably white wolf. We had now made 28 miles, and set out early the next morning, July ()fh; but the air soon became very cold, and it began to rain. We halted for a few minutes in some old Indian lodges; but finding that the rain continued we proceeded though we were all wet to the skin, and halted for dinner at the distance of eight miles [about on W. border of Fort Shaw Milit. Res.]. The rain, however, continued and we determined to go no further. The river is about 80 yards wide, with banks which, though low, are seldom overflowed ; the bed is composed of loose gravel and pebbles ; the water IS clear and rapid, but not so much so as to impede naviga- tion. The bottoms are hand- (/. jjp) some, wide, and level, and supplied with a considerable quantity of narrow-leaved Cottonwood. During our short ride we killed two deer and a buffalo, and saw a number of wolves and antelopes. July \oth. We set out early, and continued through a country similar to that of yesterday, with bottoms of wide- leaved Cottonwood occasionally along the borders, though for the most part the low grounds are without timber. In the plains are great quantities of two species of prickly-pear now in bloom. Gooseberries of the common red kind are in abundance and just beginning to ripen, but there are no currants. The river has now widened to 100 yards ; it is deep, crowded with islands, and in many parts rapid.' At the distance of 17 miles," the timber disappears totally from the river-bottoms. About this part of the river, the «■ In making the Pass. Captain Lewis went from Deer Lodse into Lewis and Clark Co. At this camp Sun river divides the latter from Choteau Co and as camp IS on an island, it is between these two counties. To-morrow he will pass into Cascade Co. *''At this point Captain Lewis has passed the site of Fort Shaw, has traversed the \ lit li. ^^ V- 1' TO WHITE HEAR ISLANDS, ON THE MISSOURI. I08I wind, which had blown on our backs, and constantly put the elk on their guard, shifted round ; vve then shot three of them and a brown bear. Captain Lewis halted to skin them, while two of the men took the pack-horses forward to seek for a camp. It was nine o'clock before he overtook them, at the distance of seven miles, in the first grove of Cottonwood. They had been pursued as they came along by a very large bear, on which they were afraid to fire, lest their horses, being unaccustomed to the gun, might take fright and throw them. This circumstance reminds us of the ferocity of these animals, when we were last near this place, and admonishes us to be very cautious. We saw vast numbers of buffalo below us, which kept up a dreadful bcl. lowing during the night. With all our exertions we were unable to advance more than 24 miles, owing to the mire through which we are obliged to travel, in consequence of the rain. The next morning, however, July lU/t, was fair, and enlivened by great numbers of birds, which sang delightfully in the clusters of cotton- wood. The hunters were sent down Medicine river to hunt elk, while Captain Lewis crossed the high plain, in a direc- tion (/. j^o) [S.] 75° E., to Whitebear islands, a distance of eight miles, where the hunters joined him. They had seen elk ; but in this neighborhood the buffalo are in such numbers that, on a moderate computation, there could not have been fewer than 10,000 within a circuit of two miles. At this season they are bellowing in every direction, so as to make an almost continued roar; this at first alarmed our horses, which, being from the west of the mountains, arc unused to the noise and appearance of these animals! Among the smaller game arc the brown thrush, pigeons, doves, and a beautiful bird called the buffalo-pecker.'' Military Reservation of that name, and is already beyond Sun River Crossing He proceeds to camp on S. bank, below entrance of Big Muddy creek from the N. »» The bird properly so called is African, and not found elsewhere. The bird meant is the cowbird, or cow blackbird, Molothrus ah-r, which has the same habit of alighting on the backs of cattle to pick the ticks or other insects which mfest their hides. .\f- I 0\ • I i!l li '* ■■-- ■*. ^-^^ l. j 1 r j , ^ i 1 1' 5 1- 1 :: 1 : i i"} I r !' ji:. 'V'ti 1082 UNCACHING IN CAMP NEAR WHITE BEAR ISLANDS. Immediately on our arrival we began to hunt, and by three in the afternoon had collected a stock of food and hides enough for our purpose. We then made two canoes, one in the form of a basin, like those used by the Mandans,' the other consisting of two skins, in a form of our own mvention. They were completed the next morning, /a/j' \2th, but the wind continued so high that it was not till toward night that we could cross the [Missouri] river in them, and make our horses swim. In the meantime, nearly the whole day was consumed in search after our horses, which had disappeared last night, and seven of which were not recovered at dark, while Drewyer was still in quest of them. The river is somewhat higher than it was last summer, the present season being much more moist than the preceding one, as may be seen in the greater lux- uriance of the grass. July iith. We formed our camp this mornmg at our old station,='^ near the head of the Whitebear islands, and immediately went to work in making gear. On open- ing the cache, we found the bear-skins entirely destroyed by water, which, in a flood of the river, had penetrated to them. All the specimens of plants were unf(,rtunately lost; the chart of the Missouri, however, remained unhurt ' and several articles contained in trunks and boxes had suffered but little injury ; but a phial of laudanum had lost Its stopper, and {p. 341) run into a drawer of medicines which it spoiled beyond recovery. The mosquitoes have been so troublesome that it was impossible even to write without the assistance of a mosquito-bier. The buffalo are leaving us fast on their way to the southeast. July \^th. We continued making preparations to trans- port our articles, and as the old deposit was too damp we secured the trunks on a high scaffold, covered with skins among the thick brush on a large island-a precaution against any visit from the Indians, should they come before the main "On the east (right) bank of the Missouri, formed June 22, i8o5' see n 387 • and for the cache there, made July loth, see p. 408. v- i 1 , ff )j drewyer's horses— m'neal's bear. 1083 party arrives here. The carriage-wheels were in good order, and the iron frame of the boat had not suffered materially. The buffalo have nearly disaiDpeared, leaving behind them a number of large wolves, which are prowling about us. July isth.''' To our great joy Drev/yer returned to-day from a long search after the horses ; for we had concluded, from his long stay, that he had probably met with a bear and with his usual intrepidity attacked the animal; in which case, if by any accident he should have been separated from his horse, his death would be almost inevitable. Under this impression, we had resolved to set out to-morrow in quest of him, when his return relieved us from our apprehensions. He had searched for two days before he discovered that the horses had crossed Dearborn's river, near a spot where was an Indian camp, which seemed to have been abandoned about the time the horses were stolen, and which was so closely concealed that no trace of a horse could be seen within the distance of a quarter of a mile. He crossed the river and pursued the track of these Indians westward, till his horse became so much fatigued that he despaired of overtaking them, and then returned. These Indians we suppose to be a party of Tushcpaws, who have ventured out of the mountains to hunt buffalo. During the day wc were engaged in drying meat and dressing skins. At night M'Neal, who had been sent in the morning to examine the (/. J42) cache at the lower end of the portage, returned ; but had been prevented from reaching that place by a singular adventure. Just as he arrived near Willow run, he approached a thicket of brush in which was a white bear, which he did not discover till he was within ten feet of him. His horse started, and wheeling suddenly round, threw M'Neal almost immediately under the bear, which started up instantly. Finding the bear raising hini.clf on his hind feet to attack him, he struck him on the head with the 3* The fragmentary Codex La ends with a iaw words at this date, breaking off at tlie midst of a sentence. The narrative now returns to Lewis L 99, begin- ning \\ ith same date — nothing is lost. yi 1 »• 1 -.* . b A if i ! r I' IOS4 DIVISION OF CAPTAIN LEWIS' PARTY. butt end of his musket ; the blow was so violent that it broke the breach of the musket and knocked the bear to the ground. Before he recovered, M'Neal, seeing a willow-tree Close by, sprang up, and there remained while the bear closelv guarded the foot of the tree until late in the afternoon. He then went off ; M'Neal being released came down, and hav- ing found his horse, which had strayed off to the distance of two miles, returned to camp.- These animals are. indeed, of a most extraordinary ferocity, and it is matter of wonder that mall our encounters we have had the good fortune to escape. We are now troubled with another enemy not quite so dangerous, though even more disagreeable • these are the mosquitoes, who now infest us in such myriads that we frequently get them into our throats when breathing and the dog even howls with the torture they occasion Havmg now accomplished the object of our stay. Captain Lewis determined to leave Sergeant Gass, with two men [Frazier and Werner] and four horses, to assist the party [Sergeant Ordway's] who are expected [to come down the Jefferson and Missouri in the canoes which we left at the Two Forks] to carry our effects over the portage, whilst he Drewyer, and the two Fields, with six horses, proceeded to the sources of Maria's river." Accordingly, early in the morning, July i6th, Captain Lewis descended in a skin-canoe to the "One of the most comical pictures (though all are verv funny) in the Phila- delph.a editions of Gass' Journal represents this incident, with M'Neal com- fortably seated in the fork of a tree, at the foot of which the bear stands j^uard with an expression of resolution equal to the occasion. M'Neal's horse is^in the distance, but the bear is between, and M'Neal seems the personification of patience on a monument. This artistic effort is inscribed : " An American having struck a Bear but not killed him. escapes into a Tree." For the cache which M'Neal examined at Portage creek, see June i8th. p. 378. " This paragraph is puzzling, as it only accounts, apparently, for six men. and Captain Lewis had nine with him : see July ist. p. 1064. The point is that Captain Lewis had detailed three men, Thompson. Goodrich, and M'Neal whom he had all along intended to leave here at the falls, and had intended to take the other six on with him to Maria's river. IhM of these six he now decides to leave Gass. Frazier and Werner at the falls, with Thompson. Goodrich and )t •■: CAPTAIN LEWIS PROCEEDS TO THE GREAT FALLS. IO85 lower side of Medicine river, where the horses had previously been sent, and then rode with his party to the falls of 47 feet, where he halted for two hours to dine, and took a sketch of the falls. In the afternoon they proceeded to the Great Fails, near which they slept under a {p. 343) shelving rock, with a happy exemption from mosquitoes. These falls have lost much of their grandeur since we saw them, the river being much lower now than at that time ; though they still form a most sublime spectacle. As we came along we met several white bears, but they did not venture to attack us. There were but few buffalo, however, the large[r number] having principally passed the river, directing their course downward. There are, as usual, great numbers of goats and [or] antelopes dispersed through the plains, and large flocks of geese [Berjticla canadensis'], which raise their young about the entrance of Medicine river. We observe here also the cuckoo [CoccygHs erythrophthahnus\ or, as it is sometimes called, the raincraw [raincrow], a bird which is not known either within or west of the Rocky mountains.'' July 17th. After taking a second d«- • ;ht of the falls, Captain Lewis directed his course N. ../ ;'., with an inten- tion of striking Maria's river at thr ;..J ,t to which he had ascended it in 1804 [sic— rczd June ^th-8th, 1805]. The country is here spread into wide and level plains, swelling like the ocean, in which the view is uninterrupted by a single M'Neal, taking only Drewyer and the brothers Fields to Maria's river with himself. Thus the nine are all " present or accounted for "-as sergeants say to their commissioned officers. (Lewis L 100, this date.) '« IV.dnesJay, ibth, Gass notes Captain Lewis' departure for Maria's river, and states that he was left with two men [/. r., Frazier and Werner, besU.s Thomp- son, Goodrich and M'Neal] and four horses to repair the trucks they had uncached, and have things ready to bring over the portage and down the Mis- souri, when Sergeant Ordway's party, which was then witli Captain Clark, should arnve with the canoes and baggage uncached at the Two Forks of Jefferson river. Gass was ordered to wait wirh his party at the mouth of Maria's river till Sept. 1st, or until Captain Lewis should come there, which was expected to be Aug. 5th ; Init if the latter did not reach the mouth of this river by Sept. 1st, Gass was to wait no longer, but go down the Missouri and join Captain Clark at or below the mouth of the Yellowstone. r.i t ^1 ''\ ii II i I H r 1 ''^ V ]:,>-•■." i 1 1' io86 CAMP ON TETON, TANSY, OR ROSE RIVER. Of buff T.' '^ '^"''■"'^^^ °"^>^ ^^^ ^^^ '"^-"^ herds Of buffalo The soil consists of a light-colored earth, inter- mixed with a large proportion of coarse gravel without sand, and IS by no means so fertile as either the plains of the Co! lumb.a or those lower down the Missouri. When drv it cracks, and is hard and thirsty, while in its wet state it is as so and shmy as soap. The grass is naturally short, and at b'ffafr' " ""'^ " '"" '''' "^^^"^ P--^^^ «f the Among the birds that we met was the party-colored plover ZZlctTTT "TT' ■' ^^" P- ^90, with the head and necR of a bnck-red, a bird which frequents the little ponds scattered over the plains. After traveling 20 miles we ached Tansy =» nver and as we could not go as Las Maria's river th,s evenmg, and perhaps not find ither wood or water before we arrived there, we determined to camp. As we approached the river, we saw the fresh track of a bleeding buffalo a circumstance by no means pleasant, as it indicated that Indians had been hunting and were not far from us .he tribes who princi- (/>. J^^) pally frequent this country are the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie and the Blackfoot Indians, both of whom are vicious and profligate rovers • we have therefore everything to fear froir their stealing'not only our horses, but even our arms and baggage, if they are at Its nearest approach to these falls-an assumption borne out bv the dJt." i Va ieux, bo h of wluch are places on ,hc north bank of the Teton. ' The route .as about at r.,.ht angles with the old Mullan trail fron. Fort Shaw o Fort C ton ,a .bstance of 63 n,iles). and probably crossed this road in hc-vi: it "j captan LeMs, with perhaps mo^ .- courage than prudence, h.as undertaken a h.^rdous th,ngwuh only three men at his back, even tho gh the we "he p. k <.f the whole party. We shall follow hin> with an ea^er almost mh.fd interest to a see-, of bloodshed, a hair-breadth escape, and ;p ;dS^ ^^^^ ' ml i 1 BETWEEN THE TETON AND MARIA'S RIVER. IO87 sufficiently strong. In order, therefore, to avoid, if possible, an interview with them, we hurried across the [Teton] river to a thick wood ; and having turned out the horses to graze, Drewyer went in quest of the buffalo to kill it, and ascer- tain whether the wound was g'ven by Indians, while the rest reconnoitered the whole country. In about three hours they all returned without having seen the buffalo or any Indians in the plains. We then dined, and two of the party resumed their search, but could see no signs of Indians ; we therefore slept in safeiy. Tansy river is here about 50 yards wide, though its water occupies only 35 feet, and is not more than three in depth. It most probably arises [docs arise] within the first range of the Rocky mountains ; its gen- eral course is from east to west, and as far as we are able to trace it through wide bottoms, well supplied with both the long- and broad-leaved cottomvood. The hills on its banks are from 100 to 150 feet in height, and possess bluffs of earth, like the lower part of the Missouri ; the bed is formed of small gravel and mud ; the water is t:"-bid and of a whitish tint ; the banks are low, but never overflowed — in short, except in depth and velocity, it is a perfect miniature of the Missouri. /i//j' iSt/i*" A little before sunrise we continued on a course N. 25° W. for six miles, when we reached the top of a high plain which divides the waters of Maria's and Tansy rivers, and a mile further reached a creek of tlie former, about 25 yards wide, though with no water except in occasional pools in the bed. Down this creek we pro- ^'' All of to-day's text requires correction by the codex, Lewis L 106, 107, as it is faulty in several particulars. The ' ' high plain " is the general elevation which further eastward is called Bee d'Outard (or d'Otard) and in the west presents an elevation known as the Knee. Lewis' route here strikes obliquely the well- known Whoop-up trail which crosses between the Knee and the Bee. While at this height Captain Lewis notes by name various mountains which are in full view in 'irfereiit directions, as the Tower mountains (Sweetgrass hills) to the N., an-' others to the N.E., E., and S.E. " Our course led us nearly parallel with a ci< jk <- ' NTaria's river which takes it's rise on these hii;h plains at the place we pasi' - them ; at noon we struck this creek about 6 ms. from it's junction with mi *'; ■\' ' m Ih' j i.,< ;-!:r.;Va 1088 THE ROUTE UP MARIA'S RIVER. ceeded [N. 15- W.] for twelve miles through thick groves of timber on its banks, passing such immense quantities of buHalo that the whole seemed to be a single herd. Accom- panymg them were great numbers of wolves, besides which we saw some antelopes and hares [Lc/>us cam/>csirtsl After dmner we left this creek, which we (/. j^j) called Buffalo creeK, and crossing the plain [due north] for six miles, came to Mana s nver, where we camped in a grove of Cottonwood on Its western [south.-n] side, keeping watch through the night lest we should he surprised by Indians. Captain Lewis was now convinced that he was above the point to which he had formerly ascended [in June, 1805], and feared that some branch might come ir. on the north, between that point and our present position. ]■ arly in the morning, therefore /u/j' U)r/i, he dispatched two hunters [Drewyer and T fields], who descended the river in a direction N 80° E till" they came to our former position [of June, 1805], ^ the dis- tance of six miles, without seeing any stream except Buf- falo creek [which they passed two miles below our present camp, Lewis L 107]. Having completed an observation of the sun s meridian altitude. Captain Lewis [crossed and] proceeded along the north side of Maria's" river The bottoms are in general about half a mile wide; thev possess considerable quantities of Cottonwood timber, and an underbrush consisting of honeysuckle, rosebushes, nar- ro^^leaved willow, and the plant called by the engagees buffalo-grease. The plains are level and beautiful, but the soil IS thin and overrun with prickly-pears. It consists of Maria's river where we found some cottonwood timber ; here we halted to TL ' < \. ' ^°^^"^^-^'-ds there is a considerable cjuantity of timber," etc :. ; V^,T '^ "° " '^^■^'^'^ ""1^« " °^ 'hick woods ; it was the bulTalo thai were "th,ck" for this distance. After dinner Captain Lewis left the ere k wh.h ran too easterly for his course, and went five or six miles due north to fJn , to it'^VT t ''""\°"'' ''"" "'" ^'^"^•^ "^^ >^-"' "•'-- 'he creek fell n to u. Th.s creek, named Buffalo in the text, seems to be that now charted as Antelope creek . an 1 the branch of it down which the party went, to be P.ser or P.ser s. But the best maps are so widely discrepant here, that thil tentative identification is open to question. I n TRIBUTARIES OF MARIA'S RIVER. 1089 a sort of white or whitish-blue clay, which after being trod- den, when wet, by the buffalo, stands up in sharp, hard points, which are as painful to the horses as the great quantity of small gravel, which is everywhere scattered over the ground, is in other parts of the plains. The bluffs of the river are high, steep, and irregular, and composed of a sort of earth which easily dissolves and slips into the water, though with occasional strata of freestone near the tops. The bluffs of the Missouri above Maria's river differ from these in con- sisting of a firm red or yellow clay, which does not yield to water, and a large proportion of rock. The buffalo are not so abundant as they were yesterday; but there are still antelopes, wolves, geese, pigeons, doves, hawks, ravens, crows, larks, and sparrows, though the curlew has dis- appeared. At the distance of eight miles a large creek falls*' in on the south [?] side ; seven miles beyond it is another, 30 yards wide, (/>. jp) which seems to issue from three moun- tains [Three Buttes or Sweetgrass hills] stretching from east to west, in a direction N. 10° VV. from its mouth, and which, *' I can fins evening on ifs N. side, river 120 yds. wide and deep pas.ed a creek on S. side at 6 ms. also another [at] 22 ms. on the N. side "this ast has no water some little timber bed 15 yds. wide." Text and codex alike ment s . At i3 mdes from camp we passed opposite the mouth of a (dry) c eek from the south ; at 6 miles further we crossed a creek from the uortk ; 4 m les beyond which we camped on the N. side of Maria's river, having made 28 miles. Ths adjustment ,s borne out by the requirements of to-morrow's 15 miles to the forks .t.s further justified by the relative positions of the two creeks chared by Clark below Battle river ; and it is required by the known geography of the reg^n, unless the -ps are wrong. Assuming its correctness, identif.ca Jons r easy. i. The creek at " 18" miles, from the south, without water is that now known as the Dry Fork of Maria's river ; old Fort Conrad was at irmruth. where 1, %v. II I- APPROACHING THE FORKS OF MARIA'S RIVER. 109! its water is but little diminished as we ascend. Its general course is very straight. From the apparent descent of the country to the north and above the Broken mountains it seems probable that the )uth branch of the Saskashawan receives some of its waters from these plains", and that one of its streams must, in descending from the Rocky moun- tains, pass not far from Maria's river, to the northeast of the Broken mountains. We slept in peace, without being annoyed by mosquitoes, which we have not seen since we left the Whitebear islands. also the Whoop-up trail crossed the river, and where the Canada and Great Falls InH r"TT'''' '^T'"e'^°"^h from Milk river, past Sweetgrass, Rocky Ridge, and Rocky Springs, along Medicine Rock coulee. This latter is : 2. The othe h ,. She by Junction, where the Great Northern Ry. crosses the other railroad just named, some 10 miles N.W. or N.N.W. of Old l-ort Conrad. We pitch bank of r"" ^^ > ''"'' '': .'"°"^' °' ''''' '''' "-"^ - -"1^«- - the north certam Shultz creek wh.ch makes in on the south, from Trunk Ridge, and will be passed unnoticed to-morrow. Maria's river is now running in "bad lands " as imhcated by the statement in the text that " the plains are more broken " ' A conjecture which, however plausible it seenied then, is refuted by the SeenoTe" "" ''"'''"''^' ^"''^'' >^hole iMilk River country intervenes. h\ <1 "i i' fi JP^J m 1 CHAPTER XXXIII. CAPTAIN LEWIS' EXPLORATION OF MARIA'S RIVER : CON- TINUED— REUNION OF THE EXPEDITION. nver .n the Rocky mou.Ua.ns-R.d Indian siBn-No game-Mi„n<=,arees of Fort de Fame suspected ,o be „, the vicinity-Determu,.tion to break camp, now named Camp D,s;.ppoM,.ment-Acras, country to a branch of Maria'.s river-Down this toward theforks-Unwelcome.,«hto a party of about 30 Indian horsemen-Friendly advances A cdio r 'T'-^-'^l T t'^'"" ""'^ ^'^'^■^ hands-They are Minnetarees- A colloquy-Camp together-Treachery of the Indians-Attempted rohbory-K Field, kjllsone nd.an-Capt,n. Lewis shoots another-The party w,ns horses in the fght- They Only ,3th) meet Sergeant Ordw.y's and Sergeant Gass' ...ties c. n,ng down descend the M.sour, to the mouth of the Yellowstone (August 7th), where they find a note from Capta.n Clark who had already reached this point and would wait for them below- TteLr7v"nrnr H tT"' "--C-^'te shoots Captain Lewis by mistake for an elk- 1 he party proceeds-They reach a camp of Dickson and Hancnck-They learn that Cap. r V " t '~ ^^ °'"'^^^'" '"' ^°"" •''"'^ Collins-They proceed to Capta.n Clark s camp-Reumon of the Expedition on the Missouri, August isth, 1806. ynVONDAY, July 2 1 St, 1806. At sunrise we proceeded *^ along the northern side of the river for a short dis- tance, when finding the ravines too steep, we crossed to the south ; but after continuing for three miles, returned to the north, and took our course through the plains, at some dis- tance from the river. After making 15 miles, we came to the forks of the river, the largest branch of which bears S. 75'' W. [about 30 miles] to the mountains, while the course of the other is N. 40"' W. We halted for dinner; and believing, on examination, that the northern branch came from the mountains and would probably lead us to the most northern extent of Maria's n-(A j^.?) ver, we proceeded, vhough at a distance over the plains, till we struck it eight miles from the junction. This river [t. c\, the North fork now called Cut-bank river] is about 30 yards wide ; the water clear, but shallow and unfit for navigation. It is closely confined between cliffs of freestone ; the adjacent country is 1092 NORfH OR CUT-BANK FORK OF MARIA'S RfVER. broken and 1093 Wc . , r ', . - crossed to the south side and pro- coeded up this fork N. 25^ W.] for five miles, til! we camped' und-T a cliff, where, not seeing any timb.r. we made a fire of buffalo-dung. and passed the night rijlr '.' r' '''' '"' °" ^"P '^'' "^^' ^''^^ °f Cut hank rverj , h- ^.„u„d ^^^ ^^^w steep and unequal, and he horses feet were very sore, we were obliged to proceed slou-ly. The river is still confined by freestone cliffs, till at I en m.les [N 30° VV. from camp] the country opens, is less covered with gravel, and has some bottoms, though con -H ' K 'r'T "' -^-brush. The river here makes'a considerable bend to the northwest, so that we crossed the plains S. 80° W.] for 11 miles, when we again crossed he ver Cfrom • Mi to north]. Here we haUed for dinne and having 1,0 uood. made a fire of the dung of buffalo with which we cooked the last of . :• n.eat. except a piJc o nvcr^ The banks are Hiree or four feet high, but are not overflowed. After [thus] crossing for ten miles a bend of ext'rt;j;vo';;.;fs- "'• '"\'\ '' "^- ^'^'^ ^'^'^ -er upward, it forks at the ZZ7Z f! '"^ """ ■""'" ""• ■'^°"''>^'-" •^^^^"'^h bears S. 75" W about conn J c r.""'""- ""• '""^ '''■ ' ""'■ "P '"^^ N-'h branch, 30 yd^ w de confined closely between clifts of rocks, shallow rapid and not navigable V fork Cut' b?;' 'T ''' ""• '"' "P"'^^^^- ^- ^'^-^ "- "ver [/'. t iis N o;^. i ;"" '' ^""•^^/"'" ^'^^ Con,n.encen.ent of this cirse, p sed [Lrosscdj It and contnuied on t's South side" Thk Jc 1,; 11 .■ r , w ti 1.;;: 'beinrti • '"' ''"° ''"^''^•"^^ ^^^^^^^ --•■ "- -"^-"^ has 'reach 'he SF """/^T"^- ^n striking these forks. Captain Lewis bound rv \ u ""■"""^ '^' I^'"'^^"' ^''^'^'^f°°t Indian Reservation one runs' rLrhllV'";rf "'■'-:'"' "^'^^ ''°''''''^''' "'^"'^ ">-'-r ^--'"y runs up liirch creek— which latter is the Battle creek of L in,l C n ,.- i n of 23 n ,les by the nver fron, camp to-day. A little below the forks the Ts o ^^as a place on the river called Abbott. iv } I I V J" m ll 1^ ^%. >.%i .J^. ^'.'^ ^ „0. .VJ>^. "t^ \v\%. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-J) A fe Sr. f/. ^° 1.0 I.I •UUt. 11:25 11 1.4 2.5 1.6 Phntnoranliir Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 87!l-4S03 <^ -^^ H'^^- ^^ ^ Q»\ ^T^ t/. A wmm^''^mmmm ■-»■'""-«■' «■ rl fl 1^ '•ll! m 1094 THE NORTHERNMOST STATION REACHED. the river toward the south, we saw, for the first time during the day, a clump of cottonwood trees in an extensive bot- tom ; and [having recrossed the river from its north to its south side] halted there for the night," This place is about ten miles below the foot of the Rocky mountains ; and being now able to trace distinctly that the point at which the river issued from those mountains was to the south of west, we concluded that we had reached its most northern point ; and as we have ceased to hope that any branches of Maria's river extend as far north as the 50th degree of latitude, we deemed it useless to proceed further, and rely chiefly on Milk and White-earth rivers for the desired boundary. We therefore determined to remain here two days, for the purpose of making the necessary observations and resting our horses. {p. j^g) July 2id. Drewyer was sent to examine the bearings of the river, till its entrance into the mountains, ' To appreciate the brackets in the text, compare Lewis L 114, as follows : " N. 30° \V. 7 ms. with the river upwards. . . S. So° W. 10 ms. through the plains, the river making a considerable bend to the wright or N.W. S. 75' W. II ms. through the plains on the N. side of the river which here made a consider- able bend to the left or south, we passed the river to it's N. side at one mile from the commencement of this course and again recrossed it at the extremity of this course and encamped on its S. side." That is to say, the journey began and ended on the same (south) side of the river, which was twice crossed in the course of the 28 miles made to-day. Camp Disappointment is easy to locate, though it is not in the immediate vicinity of any named place. It is on the S. side of Cut- bank river, a little west of the Riplingor road to Fort McLeod, and but linle short of long. 113° W. The nearest named point is Blackfoot, a station on the Grt. N. Ry. , some eight or ten miles southward, on Willow creek. The latitude is approximately 48° 40' N. — the northernmost position ever reached by the Expedition — and thus about east of the Rocky Mountain passes severally called Flathead, Gunsight, and Cut-bank Pass ; the true Maria's Pass, through which the railroad goes, being considerably further south. The streams next north of the present station are some heads of Milk river, and north of these, though still south of 49", are St. Mary's and Belly rivers, tributary to the Saskatchewan. Camp Disappointment is also abou^ in the center of the present Blackfoot Reservation. Examine the position marked on Clark's map, where the two terminal forks of Maria's river are N. and S. forks of Cut-bank river, next below is Willow creek, and next below this, on the same side, is the true Maria's river, coming from Maria's pass, through which the railroad now goes. w IN CAMP AT END OF THIS EXPLORATION. IO95 which he found to be at the distance of ten miles, in a direc- tion S. 50° W. He had seen also the remains of a camp of 1 1 leathern lodges, recently abandoned, which induced us to suppose that the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie are somewhere in this neighborhood— a suspicion which was confirmed by the return of the hunters, v/ho had seen no game of any kind. As these Indians have probably fol- lowed the buffalo toward the main branch of Maria's river, we shall not strike it [this game] above the north branch. The course of the mountains continues from southeast to northwest ; in which last direction from us the front range appears to terminate abruptly at the distance of 35 m.iles. Those which are to the southweot and more distinctly in view, are of an irregular form, composed chiefly of clay, with a very small mixture of rock, without timber; and though low are yet partially covered with snow to their bases The river itself has nearly doubled the volume of water which it possessed when we first saw it below, a circum- stance to be ascribed, no doubt, to the great evaporation and absorption of the water in its passage through these open plains. The rock in this neighborhood is of a white color and a fine grit, and lies in horizontal strata in the bluffs of the river. We attempted to take some fish, but could pro- cure only a single trout. We had, therefore, nothing to eat except the grease which we pressed from our tainted meat and [with which we] formed a mush of cows, reserving one meal more of the same kind for to-morrow. We have seen near this place a number of the whistling-squirrel [Sj>er. mophilus columbianus f ] common in the country watered by the Columbia, but which we observed here for the first time in the plains of the Missouri. The Cottonwood of this place is similar to that of the Columbia. Our observations this evening were prevented by clouds. The weather was clear for a short time in the morning, ^P-35o)Jtih> 2\th, but the sky soon clouded over, and it rained during the rest of the day. We were therefore obliged to remain one day longer for the purpose of com- i'i I* 'Mf a I If .|W1 i i :: 1096 CAMP DISAPPOINTMENT NAMED AND LEFT. pleting our observations. Our situation now became unpleasant from the rain, the coldness of the air, and the total absence of game ; for the hunters could find nothing of a large kind, and we were obliged to subsist on a few pigeons and a kettle of mush made of the remainder of our bread of cows. This supplied us with one more meal in the morning, fu/j 25//^, when, finding that the cold and rainy weather would still detain us here, two of the men were dispatched to hunt. They returned in the evening with a fine buck, on which we fared sumptuously. In their excursion they had gone [southward] as far as the main branch of Maria's river, at the distance of ten miles, through an open extensive valley, in which were scattered a great number of lodges lately evacuated. /u/jy 26///. The weather v/as still cloudy, so that no observation could be made ; and what added to our disap- pointment. Captain Lewis' chronometer stopped yesterday from some unknown cause, though when set in motion again it went as usual. We now despaired of taking the longitude of this place ; and as our staying any longer might endanger our return to the United States during the present season, we therefore waited till nine o'clock, in hopes of a change of weather; but seeing no prospect of that kind, we mounted our horses, and leaving with reluctance our position, which we now named Camp Disappointment, directed our course across the open plains, in a direction nearly southeast." At " We must follow Lewis L 118 carei'ully, if we are to find where the fight took place. "I took my rout through the open plains S.E. 5 ms. passing a small creek at 2 ms. . . when I changed my direction to S. 75" E. for 7 ms. further and struck a principal branch of Maria's river 65 yds. wide, not very deep, I passed this stream to it's south side and continued down it 2 ms. on the last mentioned course, when another branch of nearly the same dignity formed a junction with it, coming from tne S.W. ... I passed the S. branch just above it's junction, and continued down the river which runs a little N. of E. i m. and halted to dine." Captain Lewis thus comes down nearly with the Riplinger road already mentioned ; he soon cjosses Willow creek, a small tributary of Cut-bank river from the S.W., whose mouth he had not noticed in going up that river, as he was then on the N. side of it ; he next crosses the line of the Grt. THE ROUTE TO SOUTH FORK OF MARIA's RIVER. IO97 12 miles' disiance [having crossed Willow creek at two miles from camp] we reached [Two Medicine Lodge river] a branch of Maria's river, about 65 yards wide, which we crossed, and continued along its southern side for two miles, where it is joined by another branch [Badger river], nearly eqii 1 in size from the southwest, and far more clear than the north bnuich, which is turbid, though the beds of both are composed of pebbles. We now decided on pursuing this river [resulting from the confluence of Badger with Two Med- icine Lodge] to its junction with {p. 351) that [North] fork of Maria's river which we had ascended, then cross the country obliquely to Tansy [Teton] river, and descend that stream to its confluence with Maria's river. We therefore cxozz^A and descended the river ; and at one mile below the junction, halted to let the horses graze in a fertile bottom, in which were some Indian lodges that appeared to have been inhabited during the past winter. We here discern more timber than the country in ^s ueral possesses; for, besides an undergrowth of rose, honeysuckle, and redberry bushes, and a small quantity of willow timber, the three species of Cottonwood, the narrow-leaved, the broad-leaved, and the species known to the Columbia, though here seen for the first time on the Missouri, are all united at this place. Game appears in greater abundance. We saw a few ante- lopes and wolves, and killed a buck, besides which we saw also two of the small burrowing-foxes [Vulpes velox\ of the plains, about the size of the common domestic cat, and of a reddish-brown color, except the [tip of the] tail, which is black. N. Ry. at a point in the vicinity of Carlow station, six miles E. of Blackfoot station ; he then reaches Two Medicine Lodge river, which is the main fork of Maria's, at or near a point where a Mission was established ; crosses this river here and follows down its S. bank to the confluence of Badger river, a short distance up which was a trading-post and is now the Blackfoot Indian Agency or Piegan P. O. ; crosses Badger river at its mouth, and continues down the now united streams, which constitute the main or South fork of Maria's river, passed going up on the 21st. After dinner he will proceed three miles further down this stream, on its south side, and there encounter the hostiles. \ \ 1 lit 1 m i I ! 'I ■ll itij 1098 THE MEETING WITH HOSTILE INDIANS. "11; • ; f , IH .ilrm At the distance of three miles we ascended the hills close to the river-side, while Drewyer pursued the valley of the river on the opposite side. But scarcely had Captain Lewis reached the high plain when he saw, about a mile on his left, a collection of about 30 horses. He immediately halted, and by the aid of his spy-glass discovered that one-half of the horses were saddled, and that on the eminence above the horses several Indians were looking down toward the river, probably at Drewyer. This was a most unwelcome sight. Their probable numbers rendered any cor ':est with them of doubtful issue ; to attempt to escape would only invite pur- suit, and our horses were so bad that we must cer«-ainly be overtaken ; besides which, Drewyer could not yet be aware that the Indians wers near, and if we ran he would most prob- ably be sacrificed. We therefore determined to make the most of our situation, and advance toward them in a friendly manner. The flag which v/e had brought in case of any such accident was therefore displayed, and we con- (/>. JJ2) tinued slowly our march toward them. Their whole attention was so engaged by Drewyer that they did not immediately dis- cover us. As soon as they did see us, they appeared to be much alarmed and ran about in confusion ; some of them came down the hill and drove their horses within gunshot of the eminence, to which they then returned, as if to await our arrival. When we came within a quarter of a m.ile, one of the Indians mounted and rode at full speed to receive us ; but when within a hundred paces of us, he halted. Captain Lewis, who had alighted to receive him, held out his hr i and beckoned to him to approach ; he only looked at us to. some time, and then, without saying a word, returned to his com- panions with as much haste as he had advanced. The whole party now descended the hill and rode toward us. As yet we saw only eight, but presumed that there must be more behind us, as there were several horses saddled.* We how- * That did not necessarily follow. These Indians were a hunting-party, with spare ponies to exchange for those already ridden when about to run buffalo, just as an Englishman would ride his hack to the meet and then mount his WORST SUSPICIONS CONFIRMED. 1099 ever advanced, and Captain Lewis now told his two men that he beHeved these were the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie, who, from their infamous character, would in all probabihty attempt to rob us; but being determined to die rather than lose his papers and instruments, he intended to resist to the last extremity, and advised them to do the same, and to be on the alert should there be any disposition to attack us. When the two parties came within a hundred yards of each other, all the Indians, except one, halted. Captain Lewis therefore ordered his two men to halt while he advanced, and after shaking hands with the Indian, went on and did the same with the others in the rear, while the Indian himself shook hands with the two men. They all now came up ; and after alighting, the Indians asked to smoke with us. Captain Lewis, who was very anxious for Drew- yer's safety, told them that the man who had gone down the river had the pipe, and requested that as they had seen him, one of them would accompany R. Fields, to bring him' back. To this they assented, and Fields went with a young man in search of Drewyer. Captain Lewis now asked them by signs (p.JSj) if they were the Minnetarees of the North, and was sorry to learn by their answer that his suspicion was too true. He then inquired if there was any chief among them. They pointed out three ; but though he did not believe them, yet it was thought best to please them, and he therefore gave to one a flag, to another a medcil, and to a third a handker- chief. They appeared to be well satisfied with these pres- ents, and now recovered from the agitation into which our first interview had thrown them ; for they were really more alarmed than ourselves at the meeting. In our turn, how- ever, we became equally satisfied on finding that they were hunter. Not far from this very spot, a party of which I was a member came as unexpectedly upon just such an outfit of Piegans, who, when they had satisfied their curiosity at our approach, mounted their led horses and were soon scouring the plam for buffalo. If there had been any more Indians than the eight Cap. tain Lewis descried, they would have been on hand before next morning, and his whole party might have been cut off. h mi > 'III, !:'f^ ■V it t .:; !".iji JJ p!iii> l.'^^WP!^ ■ 'WJiiiiaiHiiMPHpiiiWippiHHiiiiipiipi r.il f.^';;- 1 100 THE INDIANS' ACCOUNT OF THEMSELVES. not joined by any more of their companions ; for we consider ourselves quite a match for eight Indians, particularly as these have but two guns, the rest being armed with only eye- dogs [or cye-daggs, Lewis L 1 27— a sort of war-hatchet] and bows and arrows. As it was growing late Captain Lewis proposed that they should camp together near the river ; for he was glad to see them and had a great deal to say to them. They assented ; and being soon joined by Drewyer, we proceeded toward the river, and after descending a very steep bluff, 250 feet high, camped in a small bottom.* Here the Indians formed a large semicircular tent of dressed buffalo-skins, in which the two parties assembled ; and by the means of Drewyer, the evening was spent in conversation with the Indians. They informed us that they were a part of a large band which at present were camped on the main branch of Maria's river, nea.'- the foot of the Rocky mountains, at the distance of a day and a half's journey from this place. Another large band were hunting buffalo near the Broken mountains, from which they would proceed in a few days to the north of Maria's river. With the first of these there was a white man. They added that from this place to the establishment on the Saskashawan at which they trade is only six days' easy march — that is, such a day's journey as can be made with their women and chil- dren ; so that we computed the distance at 1 50 miles. There ' Lewis L 122 : "we decended a very steep bluff about 250 feet hiRh to the river where there was a small bottom of nearly |^ a mile in length and about 250 yards wide in the widest part, the river washed the bluffs both above and below us and through it's course in this part is very deep ; the bluffs are so steep that there are but few places where they could be ascended, and are broken in several pHces by deep nitches which extend back from the river several hundred yards, their bluffs being so steep that it is impossible to ascend them ; in this bottom there stand tree [three] solitary trees near one of which the Indians formed a large simicircular camp of dressed buffaloe skins and invited us to par- take of their shelter which Drewyer and myself accepted and the Fieldses lay near the fire in front." These topographical details fix the spot absolutely, when taken in connection with the broader geographical features already given. I do not think that the actual ?cene of the conflict has ever before been deter- mined. CAPTAIN LEWIS' PEACEABLE OVERTURES. I lOI they carry the skins of wolves and {p.354) beavers, to ex- change for guns, ammunition, blankets, spirituous liquors, and other articles of Indian traffic. Captain Lewis in turn informed them that he had come from a great distance up the large river which runs toward the rising sun ; that he had been as far as the great lake where the sun sets ; that he had seen many nations, the greater part of whom were at war with each other, but by his mediation were restored to peace ; that all had been invited to come and trade with him west of the mountains ; that he was now on his way home, but had left his companions at the falls, and come in search of the Minnetarees, in hopes cf inducing them to live at peace with their neighbors, and to visit the trading-houses which would be formed at the entrance of Maria's river. They said that they were anxious to be at peace with the Tushepaws ; but those people had lately killed a number of their relations, as they proved by showing several of the party who had their hair cut as a sign of mourning. They were equally willing, they added, to come down and trade with us. Captain Lewis therefore proposed that they should send some of their young men to invite all their band to meet us at the mouth of Maria's river, the rest of the party to go with us to that place, where he hoped to find his men ; offering them ten horses and some tobacco in case they would accompany us. To this they made no reply. Find- ing them very fond of the pipe. Captain Lewis, who was desirous of keeping a constant watch during the night, smoked with them until a late hour.' As soon as they were all asleep, he woke R. Fields, and ordering him to rouse us all in case any Indians left the camp, as they would probably attempt to steal our horses, he lay down by the side of Drewyer in the tent with all the Indians, while the Fields were stretched near the fire at the mouth of it. X- i * ir ■i- < 11 •Lewis L 124 : " I plyed them with the pipe until late at night. . . I took the first watch to-night and set up untill half after eleven , the indians by this time were all asleep [or feigned to be ?]. I roused up R. Fields and laid down myself ; . . . I fell into a profound sleep." T-T mn 111 I - .. 1 102 FIRST BLOOD FOR RKUBEN FIELDS. ! 'i:: Sunday, July 2Tth. At sunrise, the Indians got up and crowded around the fire near which J Fields, who was then on watch, had carelessly left his rifle, near the head of his brother, who was still (/>. JS5) asleep. One of the Indians slipped behind him, and, unperceived, took his brother's and his own rifie, while at the same time two others seized those of Drewyer and Captain Lewis. As soon as Fields turned, he saw the Indian running off with the rifles ; instantly calling his brother, they pursued him for 50 or 60 yards; just as they overtook him, in the scuffle for the rifles R. Fields stabbed him through the heart with his knife. The Indian ran about fifteen steps and fell dead. They now ran back with their rifles to the camp. The moment the fellow touched his gun, Drewyer, who was awake, jumped up and wrested it from him. The noise awoke Captain Lewis,' who instantly started from the ground and reached for his gun ; but finding it gone, drew a pistol from his belt, and turning saw the Indian running off with it. He followed him and ordered him to lay it down, which he did just as the two Fields came up, and were taking aim to shoot him; when Captain Lewis ordered ' The account of the sad affair is so close to the codex that there is little to add, but I give an extract in Captain Lewis' words, L 125 : " Drewyer who was awake saw the indian take hold of his gun and instantly jumped up and sized her and rested her from him but the indian still retained his pouch, his jump, ing up and crying damn you let go my gun awakened me I jumped up and asked what was the matter which I quickly learned when I saw drewyer in a scuffle vith the indian for his gun, I reached to seize my gun but found her gone, I then drew a pistol from my holster and terning myself about saw the indian making off with my gun I ran at him with my pistol and bid him lay down my gun which he was in the act of doing when the Fieldses returned and drew up their guns to shoot him which I forbid. . . as soon as they found us all in the possession of our arms they ran and indeavored to drive off all the horses I now hollowed to the men and told them to fire on them if they attempted to drive off our horses, they accordingly pursued the main party who were driving the horses up the river and I pursued the man who had taken my gun who with another was driving off a part of the horses which were to the left of the camp, I pursued them so closely that they could not take twelve of their own horses but continued to drive one of mine with some others ; at the distance of 300 paces they entered one of those steep nitches in the bluff with the horses before them being nearly out of breath I could pursue no further, I called to them as I ANOTHER ULACKFOOT BITES THE DUST. H03 them not to fire, as the Indian did not appear to intend any mischief. He dropped the gun and was going slowly off when Drewyer came out and asked permission to kill him ; but this Captain Lewis forbade, as he had not yet attempted to shoot us. But finding that the Indians were now endeav- oring to drive off all the horses, he ordered [all] three of us to follow the main party, who were chasing the horses up the river, and fire instantly upon the thieves; while he, without taking time to run for his shot-pouch, pursued the fellow who had stolen his gun and another Indian, who were driving away the horses on the left of the camp. He pressed them so closely that they left twelve of their horses, but continued to drive off one of our own. At the distance of 300 paces they entered a steep niche in the river-bluffs, when Captain Lewis, being too much oui of breath to pur- sue them any further, called out, as he had done several times before, that unless they gave up the horse he would shoot them. As he raised his gun one of the Indians jumped behind a rock and spoke to the other, who stopned {p-35^) at the distance of thirty paces. Captain Lewis shot him in the belly. He fell on his knees and right elbow ; had done several times before that I would shoot them if they did not give me my horse and raised my gun, one of them jumped behind a rock and spoke to the other who turned arround and stoped at the distance of 30 steps from me and I shot him through the belly, he fell to his knees and on his wright elbow from which position he partly raised himself up and fired at me, and turning himself about crawled in behind a rock which was a few feet from him. he overshot me, being bearheaded I felt the wind of his bullet very distinctly, not having my shotpouch I could not reload my piece and as there were two of them behind good shelters from me I did not think it prudent to rush on them with my pistol which had I discharged I had not the means of reloading untill I reached camp ; I therefore returned leasurely towards camp." The picture of " Captain Lewis shooting an Indian," which illustrates the affair in the Phila. eds. of Gass" Journal, gives him five men to four Indians ; he had but three to eight Indians. In his personal encounter he was alone, with two Indians against him : " the Fieldses told me that three [two] of the in- dians whom they pursued swam the river one of them on my horse, and that two others ascended the hill and escaped from them with a part of their horses, two I had pursued into the nitch one lay dead near camp and the eighth we could not account for but suppose that he ran off early in the contest," Lewis L 128. ,r ^^m^m^^^^mm^m^lffm^ wmmm HP ' I \ ' I 1 104 THE ENEMY WHIPPED OUT OF SIGHT. but raising himself a little, fired and then crawled behind a rock. The shot had nearly been fatal, for Captain Lewis, who was bareheaded, felt the wind of the ball very distinctly Not having his shot-poucli, he could not reload his rifle ; and having only a single load for his pistol, he thought it most prudent not to attack the Indians, and therefore retired slowly to the camp. He was met by Drewyer, who, hearing the report of the guns, had come to his assistance, leaving the Fields to pursue the Indians. Captain Lewis ordered him to call out to them to desist from the pursuit, as we could take the horses of the Indians in place of our own ; but they were at too great a distance to hear him. He therefore returned to the camp ; and whilst he was saddling the horses, the Fields returned with four of our own, having followed the Indians until two of them swam the river and two others ascended the hills, so that the horses became dispersed. We, however, were rather gainers by this contest, for we took four of the Indian horses, and lost only one of our own. Besides which, we found in the camp four shields, two bows with quivers, and one of the guns, which we took with us, as also the flag which we had presented to the Indians, but left the medal round the neck of the dead man, in order that they might be informed who we were. The rest of their baggage, except some buffalo-meat, we left ; ' and as there was no time to be lost, we mounted our horses, and after ascending the river-hills, took our course through the beau- tiful level plains, in a direction a little to the south of east. We had no doubt but that we should be immediately pur- sued by a much larger party, and that as soon as intelligence was given to the band near the Broken mountains, they would hasten to the mouth of Maria's river to intercept us. 8 In ashes. " While the men were preparing the horses I put four sheilds and two bows and quivers of arrows which liad been left on the fire with sundry other articles ; they left all their baggage at our mercy, they had but two guns and one of them they left the others were armed with bows and arrows and eyedaggs. the gun we took with us. I also retook the flagg but left the medal about the neck of the dead man," Lewis L 127 Tl BATTLE KlVER— FORCED MARCH TO THE TETON. I 105 We hoped, however, to be there before them, so as to form a junction with our friends. We therefore pushed our horses as fast as we possibly could ; fortunately for us, the Indian {p. 357) horses were very good, the plains perfectly level, without many stones or prickly-pears, and in fine order for traveling after the late rains. At eight miles from our camp we passed a stream 40 yards wide, to which, from the ocLurj-ence of the morning, we gave the name of liattle river.' At three o'clock we reached Rose [or Tansy] river, five miles above where we had formerly '° passed it ; and hav- ing now come by estimate 6^ miles, halted for an hour and a half to refresh our horses. We then pursued our journey 17 miles further, when, as night came on, we killed a buffalo, and again stopped for two hours. The sky was now over- clouded, but as the moon gave light enough to show us tho Batile R." is the only branch of Maria's river charted by Clark by name except " Tansey R." Observe that the collision was not on this river but the next above it, and that they struck Uattle river eight miles from the scene its name commemorates. The place of action i. inten.led to be represented by Clark at that point where the dotted trail is bent into an elbow : for the precise spot see a preceding note. Battle river is now known as Birch river or creek, which for some distance forms the southern boundary of the Blackfoot Indian Reserva- tion from Maria's river, near its forks, toward the main divide of the Rocky mor.. tarns. This stream was reached and crossed but a short distance above Its mouth, whence a forced march was made straight for the Teton For- tunately Captain Lewis and his men were thoroughly alive to the danger of the.r situation, and understood that their lives depended on putting as many miles as possible behind them, in order not to be overtaken and " wiped out " by the larger body of hostiles then in the country, who would get word of the fight in a few hours. They escaped unhurt ; but the afifair had far-reaching con- sequences. " In consequence of the death of this man at the hands of Captain Lewis, a treacherous and lurking hostility was excited in the breasts of the Black- feet (and it is presumed still remains), which induced the American Fur Com- pany to establish a strong fort, with a force of sixty men, at the mouth of Maria's river." Irving, quoted in the M'Vickar ed. of L. and C. 1842, II. p. 274. When I was at Fort Benton, in 1874, having come down from the Milk river region along Maria's river, an escort of cavalry was required for the safety of the party and our scout (George Boyd) was full of bloody stones. Within his own knovvd- edge were scores of dark deeds that never saw the light of history, and the mem- ory of which has since perished with le participants. '0 On the 17th inst. The estimate of 63 miles from the scene of action to the point thus indicated seems to me very close. The distance is certainly not over- ■•m 1 ^i II -W 7«T" 'rfl !: t t i 1 ■ ■ • II06 RETREAT PUSHED TOWARD THE MISSOURI. route, we continue 1 through immense herds of buffalo for 20 miles, and then, almost exhausted with fatigue, halted at two in the morning, /u/jy 281/1, to rest ourselves and the horses. At daylight we awoke sore and scarcely able to stand ; but as our own lives as well as those of our companions depended on our pressing forward, we mounted our horses and set out. The men were desirous of crossing the Missouri at Grog spring, where Rose river approaches so near the river, and passing down the southwest side of it, thus avoiding the country at the junction of the two rivers, through which the enemy would most probably pursue us. But as this circuitous route would consume the whole day, and the Indians might in the meantime attack the canoes at the point [t. e., mouth of Maria's river]. Captain Lewis told his party it was now their duty to risk their lives for their friends and companions ; that he would proceed immediately to tht point to give the alarm to the canoe? ; and if they had not yet arrived he woi-". raft the Missouri, and after hiding the baggage, ascend the river on foot through the woods till he met them. He told them also that it was his determination, in case they were atLacked in crossing the plains, to tie the bridles of the horses and stand together till they either routed their enemies, or sold their lives as dearly as possible. To this they all assented, {p. 358) and we therefore con- stated if, as I judge, they struck the Teton somewhere in the vicinity ot Perrys- burg. The codex says that after the halt they followed down Rose r'Ver in the bottoms, but finding it inconvenient to cross and recross the stream so o'ten as they were obliged to, they left the bottoms and ascended the hills on the S.W. side. The 17 additional miles thus made should put them somewhere in the vicinity of Valleux ; and 20 more by moonlight would bring them near Fort Benton. On resuming the march in the morning and before reaching Grog spring, at the narrow isthmus of the Cracon du Nez, the men proposed to put the Missouri between themselves and the hostiles before approaching the nouth of Maria's river. The insistence of Captain Lewis was, that the party should proceed direct to that point— the " point" of to-morrow text, left unspecified, being the moiuh of Maria's rivei— to which the men who were coming down the Missouri in the canoes had been ordered to proceed and there await Captain Lewis' return from his reconnoissance. f h %k- u V i SERGEANTS ORDWAY AND GASS HAILED. 1 107 tinued our route to the eastward, till at the distance of twelve miles we came near the Missouri, when we heard a noise which seemed like the report of a gun. We therefor- quickened our pace for eight miles further, and about five miles from Grog spring heard distinctly the noise of several rifles from the river. We hurried to the bank, and saw with exquisite satisfaction our friends" coming down the river They landed to greet us, and after turning our horses loose we embarked with our baggage, and went down to the spot wheie we had made a deposit. This, after reconnoitering the adjacent country, we opened; but, unfortunately, the cache had caved in, and most of the articles were injured We took whatever was still worth preserving, and immedi- afely proceeded to the point, where we found our deposits in good order. By singular good fortune we were here joined by Sergeant Gass " and Willard from the falls, who had been ordered to bring the horses here to assist in collecting meat for the voyage, as it had been calculated that the canoes would reach this place much sooner than Captain Lewis' party. After a very heavy shower of rain and hail, attended with violent " Sergeant Ordway's party, who had left Captain Clark at the Three Forks of the Missouri to which they had come down the Jefferson, and navigated the Missouri to the Great Falls, made the portage there, and were now just in the nick of time to reinforce Captau, Lewis. The latter says, L 130 : " On arriving at the bank of the river we had the unspeakable satisfaction to see our canoes coming down. We hurried down from the bluft on which we were and joined hem striped our horses and gave them a final discharge imbarking without 'OSS of time with our baggage. I now learned that they had brought all things safe, having sustained no loss nor met with any accident of importance Wiser had cut his bg badly with a knife, and was unable in consequence to work We decended the river opposite to our principal cash [cache] which we proceeded to open after reconnoitering the adjacent country." '= Gass' Journal gives fully the movements of his own and Sergeant Ordway's parcy The latte- joined him on the 19th, consisting of Ordway and nine men who had come from Captain Clark's party down the Missouri from the Three Forks in the canoes. The v. hole were occupied with the portage of the Great Fa Is t'll the 27th, when most of them started down the Missouri in the canoes and Gass and Willard set out overland for the mouth of Maria's river They proceeded about 20 miles through the plains, and there struck Tansy or ',*■'■ ■ I ''■■ li ■'1 if' Ml ■(! m II II08 UNITED PARTIES START DOWN THE MISSOURI. Ifi' 1- 1 ( r ! ' ' 1 i' l ' I thunder and lightning, we left the point, and giving a final discharge to our horses, went over to the island where we had left our red periogue, which, however, we found so much decayed that we had no means of repairing her. We there- fore took all the iron work out of her, proceeded down the river 1 5 miles, and camped near some Cottonwood trees, one of which was of the narrow-leaved species, and the first of that species we had remarked as we ascended the river. Sergeant Ordway's party, which had left the mouth of Madison river on the 13th, had descended in safety to the White Bear islands, where they arrived on the 19th, and after collecting the baggage, left the falls on the 27th in the white periogue and five canoes ; while Sergeant Gass and Willard set out at the same time by land with the horses, and thus fortunately all met together. (a JS9) /"(^ 29///. A violent storm of rain and hail came on last night ; and as we had no means of making a shelter we lay in the rain, and during the whole day continued so exposed. The two small canoes " were sent ahead in order to hunt elk and buffalo, which are in immense quantities, so as to provide shelter as well as food for the party. We then Rose river, down which they passed for ten miles and camped. " In our way we killed a buffalo and a goat [antelope]. The wolves in packs occasionally hunt these goats, which are too swift to be run down and taken by a single wolf. The wolves having fixed upon their intended prey and taken their stations, a part of the pack commence the chace, and running it in a circle are at certain intervals relieved by others. In this manner they are able to run a goat down. At the Falls, where the wolves are plenty, I had an opportunity of seeing one of these hunts," Gass, p. 244. "/«/v 28/'//. The morning was tine and pleasant, and at an early hour we proceeded down the river. In our way we killed six goats or antelopes and seven buffaloes; and about one o'clock came to the point at the mouth of Maria's river, where we met with the party who had come down from the falls by water, and who had just arrived; and also unexpectedly with Captain Lewis and '\e three men who had gone with him. They had joined the party descending the river this forenoon, after riding 120 miles since yesterday morning, when they had a skirmish with a party of the Prairie Grossventres or Bigbellied Indians who inhabit the plains up Maria's river," Gass, pp. 244, 245. '" i le hunters in these canoes were the brothers Fields, Colter, and Collins. Cam J of May 29th was " on the north, three-quarters of a mile above Slaughter river," for which and the Natural Walls see pp. 335, 338, and notes there. u {/ THE NATURAL WALLS— GOODRICH'S ISLAND. II09 proceeded very rapidly with the aid of a strong current and after passing, at one o'clock, the Natural Walls, camped late in the evening at our former camp of the 29th of May, 1805 The river is now as high as it has been during the present season, and every little rivulet discharges torrents of water which bring down such quantities of mud and sand that we' can scarcely drink the water of the Missouri. The bulYalo contmue to be very numerous, but the elk are few The bigjiorns,- however, are in great numbers along the steep chffs of the river, and being now in fine order, their f.csh IS extremely tender, delicate, and well-flavored, resembling in color and flavor mutton, though it is not so strong The brown curlew {_Numenius longirostris] has disappeared, and has probably gone to some other climate after rearing its young in these plains. July loth. The rain still prevented us from stopping to diy our baggage ; we therefore proceeded with a strong cur- rent which, joined to our oars, enabled us to advance at the rate of seven miles an hour. We went ashore several times for the purpose of hunting, and procured several bighorns two buffalo,'^ a beaver, an elk, and a female brown bear' whose talons were 6% inches in length. In the evening we camped on an island two miles above Goodrich's island [see note '", p. 326] ; and early in the morning, July list, continued our route in the rain, passing, during the greater part of the day, through high pine hills, suc- ceeded by low grounds abounding in timber and game. The buf=falo are scarce, but we procured 15 elk, 14 deer 2 bighorns, and a beaver. The elk are in fine order,' '^ Gass, p. 246. notes at this date that ' ' Captain Lewis had four of these animals skeletonized, to take with him to the seat of government of the United States " Uhile pass-ng down this part of the Missouri in 1874, the Northern Boun- dary Survey to which I was attached as surgeon and naturalist, foun particularly the males, who now herd together in (p. j6o) small parties. Their horns havo reached their full growth, but ill [still] retain the velvet or skin whicft covers them. Through the bottoms are scattered a number of lodges, some of which seem to have been built last winter, and were probably occupied by the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie. The river is still rising, and more muddy than we have ever seen it. Late this night we took shelter from the rain in some old Indian lodges, about eight miles below the entrance of North-mountain creek, and then set out, Friday, August ist, 1806, at an early hour. We passed the Muscleshell" river at eleven o'clock, and 15 miles further landed at some Indian lodges, whe'-e we determined to pass the night ; for the rain still continued, and we feared that the skins of the bighorn would spoil by being constantly wet. Having made fires, therefore, and exposed them to dry, we proceeded to hunt. August idwdis fair and warm, and we availed ourselves of this occasion to dry our baggage in the sun. Such is the immediate effect of fair weather that since last evening the river has fallen 18 inches. Two men [J. and R. Fields] were sent forward in a canoe to hunt ; and now, having reloaded our canoes, we resolved to go on as fast as possible. August 2,d. Accordingly we set out at an early hour, and without stopping as usual to cook dinner, camped in the evening two miles above our camp of May 12th, 1805. We were here joined by the two hunters, who had killed 29 deer since they left us. These animals are in great abun- steep for them i= not so well known. A herd of several hundred took the alarm at our approach, and rushed headlong up the bank. They got on very well for some distance— for buffalo can climb steeper places than one would suppose from their ungainly and unwieldy form ; but as they proceeded the way grew worse. Still those that were in the rear pressed so hard on the leaders of this climb that the latter could neither turn nor even stop ; several of them lost their footing, rolled down, end over end, in a cloud of dust, and then tumbled off the cliff to be dashed to pieces on the rocks below. "Gass has this "Muscle shoal river," p. 247; Lewis L 135 has "Missel shell river." lil I fl^i 'i- hi If wni mm w^^^mfimmmmmm, BIG DRV, MILK, AND LITTLE DRY RIVERS. JIII dance in the river-bottoms, and very gentle. We passed also a great number of elk, wolves, some bear, beaver, geese, a few ducks, the party-colored corvus [magpie. Pica pica lmdsonica\ a calumet eagle, some bald eagles, and red- headed woodpeckers [Melanerpes erythrocephaliis], but very few buflfalo. By four o'clock next morning, Atigust ^th, we were again in motion. At eleven we passed the Bigdry [Big Dry] river, which has now a bold, even, but shal- (A 361) low current, 60 yards in width,' and halted for a few minutes at the mouth of Milk river! This stream is at present full of water, resembling in color that of the Missouri ; and as it possesses quite as much water as Maria's river, we have no doubt that it extends to a considerable distance toward the north. We here killed a very large rattlesnake. Soon after we oassed several herds of buffalo and elk, and camped at night two miles below the Gulf," on the northeast side of the river. For the first time this season we were saluted with the cry of the v.'hippoorwill or goatsucker of the Missouri IPhalcenop. ttlus niittalli\ August i^tJi. We waited until noon in hopes of being overtaken by two of the men [Colter and Collins], who had gone ahead in a canoe to hunt two days ago, but who were at a distance from the river as we passed them. As they did not arrive by that time we concluded that they had passed us in the night, and therefore proceeded until late, when we camped about ten miles below Littledry [Little Dry"] river. We again saw great numbers of buffalo, elk, ante- lope, deer, and wolves ; also eagles and other birds, among which were geese and a solitary pelican, neither of which can fly at present, as they are now shedding the feathers of their wings. We also saw several bears, one of them the largest, except one, we had ever seen; for he measured nine^'feet "That is, the so-called "Gulf in the Island Bend," located 13 miles below Milk nver. See note '\ p. 300. "* For this stream, so muci onfused with some others of similar names see note '■*, p. 299. ' ' 1 ' ,i '11 f ' _ ■^~~'.^^.^,.,,.^iV^;v^a^r!^^^,ym..'^.mux 1 ■ I w j- i 1 n in .■' ,i' ,1 h 1 i 1 . , F i m' " ;r I : II 12 MARTHA'S RIVER— NEARING THE YELLOWSTONE. from the nose to the extremity of the tail. During the night a violent storm came on from the northeast with such torrents of rain that we had scarcely time to unload the canoes before they filled with water. Having no shelter we ourselves were completely wet to the skin, and the wind and cold air made our situation very unpleasant. August eth. We left early ; but after we had passed Por- cupine river, were, by the high wind, obliged to lie by until four o'clock, when the wind abating we continued, and at night camped five miles below our camp of the ist of May, 1805. Here {p. 362) we were again drenched by the rain' which lasted all the next morning, ' August 7th, but being resolved' if possible, to reach the Yellowstone, a distance of 83 miles, in the course of the day we set out early, and being favored by the rapid current and good oarsmen, proceeded with great speed. In passing Martha's river," we observed that its mouth is at present a quarter of a mile lower than it was last year. Here we find for the first time the appearance of coal-b'-rnt hills and pumice-stone, which seem always to accompany each other. At this place also are the first elms and dwarf cedars in the bluffs of the river. The ash first makes its appearance in one solitary tree at Ash rapids, but is seen occasionally scattered through the low grounds at Elk rapids, and thence downward, though it is generally small. The whole country on the northeast side, between Martha and Milk rivers is a beautiful, level plain, with a soil much more fertile than that higher up the river. The buffalo, elk, and other ani- mals" continue numerous, as are also the bears, which lie '»LewisLi4i: " At 8 A. M. we passed the entrance of Marthy's river which has changed it s entrance since we passed it last year," Apr. 29th, 1805 • see note ■' p. 289. This IS an important note, as indicating what decided changes may occur ,n the debouchure of rivers in a few months even. In reviewing Lewis and Clark s work as a whole, the wonder may become-not an occasional doubt that anses concerning the channels of the main rivers and the positions of the mouths of their lesser tributaries-but the seldom erring certainty with which we can hx points. '•■■We also saw an unusnal Bight of white gulls about the size of a pigeon ti '!f 1 THE VELLOWSTONE-CAPTAI.N CLARK ,S BELOW. ,,,3 in wait at the crossing.places, where they seize elk and ,h. weaker cattle, and then stay by the carcass in order to kep off the wolves nnfl the whole is devoured. At four o'elock we reaehed the mouth of the Yellowstone, where we found a note from Captain Clark, informing us of his intln. on of waitmg for us a few miles below. We therefore left , memorandum for our two huntsmen [Colt r and Col iLsl whom we now supposed must be behind us, and then pur sued our course till night came on; and no being able to overtake Captain Clark, we camped fon the N.E. fhore n atru^'t ^' ''' ■"" '" ^"P" °f overtaking Captain Clark ; but after descending nearly to the entrance of White with the top of their heads black " Lewis T ja-> tk»c most probably ' --^.-'^^^> -^> ^ecended the river in the hope ;ea,t ng Capt. C s camp before night, about 7 miles below the point on the S W hore I saw some meat that had been lately fleased [flensed] and hung on a no'I' I d,rected Sergt. Ordway to go on shore [to] examine the place ; of his return he reported that he saw the tracks of two men which appeared so resent tha^^ he beloved they had been there to-day, the fire he found at the place wasVla in' and appeared to have been mended up afresh or within the course o a hZ Lie ha^ oToIbi:''^ '''-' ' ''-' '' ^ '''--' ^- -^^^^ -y -" -ognij; t"! f I i' 1 ! '' i' ii ill ^^^ ' ;i iii V 1 1 t ^^^ HI P 1 1 14 CAPTAIN LEWIS IS SHOT BY PRIVATE CRUZATTE. earth " river without being able to see him, we were at a loss what to conjecture. In this situation we landed, and began to calk and repair the canoes, as well as prepare some skins for clothing, for since we left the Rocky mountains we (P-J^J) have had no leisure to make clothes, so that the greater part of the men are almost naked. In these occu- pations we pased this and the following day [August 9///"], without any interruption except from the mosquitoes,' which are very troublesome ; and then having completed the repairs of the canoes, we embarked, Sunday, August loth, at five in the afternoon ; but the wind and rain prevented us going further than near the entrance of Whiteearth river." August nth. Being anxious to reach the Burnt hills by noon, in order to ascertain the latitude, we went forward with great rapidity ; but by the time we reached that place, it was 20 minutes too late to take the meridian altitude. Having lost the observation, Captain Lewis observed on the opposite side of the river a herd of elk on a thick sand- bar of willows, and landed with Cruzatte to hunt them. Each of them fired and shot an elk. They then reloaded and took different routes in pursuit of the game ; when, just as Captain Lewis was taking aim at an elk, a ball struck him in the left thigh, about an inch below the joint of the hip, " " About 8 ms. by water and three by land above the entrance of White earth river, not finding Capt. Clark I knew not what calculation to make with rispect to his halting and therefore determined to proceed as tho' he was not before me and leave the rest to the chapter of accidents," Lewis L 148. Codex L ends at this date (though there are a few more pages of meteorological registration), with a call for a "supplement." This additional matter makes Lewis Lb. a small codex, running only Aug. 9th-i2th, 1806. Captain Lewis was shot by Cruzatte on the nth ; his wound soon became so painful that he could write no more ; and his entry of Aug. 12th is the last he ever made on the Expedition. " The brothers Fields were sent to White-earth river, but saw no signs of Captain Clark's party. "Colter and Colnns have not yet overtaken us I fear some missfortune has happened them for their previous fidelity and orderly deportmeni induces me to beleive that they would not thus intentionally delay " Lewis Lb i. ^' «* Where they had camped before, Apr. 21st, 1805 : see note«, p. 278. h f THIS ALARMING AND PAINFUL ACCIDENT. 1 115 and missing the bone, went through the left thigh and grazed the right to the depth of the ball. It instantly occurred to him that Cruzatte must have shot him by mistalce for an elk as he was dressed in brown leather, and Cruzatte had not a very good eye-sight. He therefore called out that he was shot, and looked toward the place from which the ball came ; seeing nothing, he called on Cruzatte by name several times, but received no answer. He now thought that as Cruzatte was out of hearing, and the shot did not seem to come from more than 40 paces' distance, it must have been fired by an Indian; and not knowing how many might be concealed in the bushes, he made toward the periogue, calling out to Cruzatte to retreat, as there were Indians in the wil- lows. As soon as he reached the periogue he ordered the nien to arms, and mentioning fhat he was wound- (a ?^ a ed though he hoped not mortally, by the Indians, bade them follow him to relieve Cruzatte. They instantly followed for a hundred paces, when his wound became so painful and his thigh stiffened in such a manner that he could go no further. He therefore ordered the men to proceed, and if '» " I called out to him damn you, you have shot me," etc., Lewis Ld •, In respect to th.s pa.nful incident, I had feared that the codex might reveal some- tlung even more regrettable than the accident itself, touching the relati"^ between Captam Lew.s and one of his men. But there is no trace of anything o the sort ; the text is almost literally true to the codex, and we may dismiss l^rri. ^'^,^. J^"^.^"^ '"'-^^'^ '° «hoot his captain. •• I do J bZ^ tha the fellow d>d n intentionally, but after finding that he had shot me was anx.ous to conceal h,s knowledge of having done so. the ball had lodged in my breeches wh,c-h I knew to be the ball of the short rifles such as that he had . . .with the assistance of Sergt. Gass I took oflf my cloaths and dressed my wound myself as well as I could," Lewis Lb 4. ci aresseU Gass, p. 249, narrates this accident : " In a short time Captain Lewis returned wounded and very much alarmed; and ordered us to our arms, supposi g he had been shot at by Indians. Having prepared for an attack, I went'out tith three men to reconnoUre and examine the bushes, which are very thick at this Tcclntr kT. v,.^'""'""' '°""^ °" '"'l^'^y '"^'^ ^^ had shot him by n .1 tt- .""' ''^' "^' "'"""' '"°"'"S '' P^'^^"^^ ''^^ B--- Having made th.s discovery we returned to ihe periouge ; examined and dressed Cap' tain Lews s wound ; and found the ball, which had lodged in his overalls " ^1 Ml M t' ',,' II16 DICKSON AND HANCOCK-NEWS FROM ILLINOIS. overpowered by numbers, to retreat toward the boats, keen- ing up a fire ; then limping back to the periogue, he pre- pared himself with his rifle, a pistol, and the air-gun. to sell his life dearly in case the men should be overcome In this state of anxiety and suspense he remained for about 20 minutes, when the party returned with Cruzatte and reported that no Indians could be seen in the neighbor- hood Cruzatte was now much alarmed, and declared that he had shot an elk after Captain Lewis left him. but dis- claimed every idea of having intentionally wounded his officer There was no doubt that he was the person who gave the wound ; yet as it seemed to be perfectly accidental, and Cruzatte had always conducted himself with propriety no further notice was taken of it. The wound was now dressed, and patent lint was put into the holes ; but though It bled considerably, yet as the ball had touched neither a bone nor an artery, we hope that it may not prove fatal. As It was, however, impossible for him to make the observation of the latitude of the Burnt hills, which is chiefly desirable these being the most northern parts of the Missouri he declined remaining till to-morrow, and proceeded till even- ing. Captain Lewis could not now be removed without great pain, as he had a high fever. He therefore remained on board during the night, and early the next morning ^«^«^/ 12^//, proceeded with as much expedition as' pos- sible. Soon afterward we put ashore to visit a camp, which we found to be that of [Joseph] Dickson and [Forest] Han- cock, the two Illinois traders, who told us that they had seen Captain Clark yesterday." As we stopped with them, we Tsr^'T " ''" 'T ""'""■" ® """'' °^ °"'" ^"'^^'"Pnient of the 15th of April 180 and encamped on N.E side. . . At 4 P. M. we passed an encampment which had been evacuated th.s morning by Capt. Clark, here I found a note from Capt. C .nformmg me that he had left a letter for me at at the entrance of the liZ fr 'r'; ' V"^'- '''■^°'" "'•^ '^'' P^'^'^ 'h^' Pl-<^« ^ince he left :t had taken the letter ; that Sergt. Pryor having been robed of all his hor.es had decended the Yelowstone river in skin canoes and had overtaken him at this encampment," Lewis Lb 5. " " They also informed me that they had left the Illinois in the summer REUNION OF THE EXPEDITION. 11,7 were overtaken by our two hunters. Colter and Collins, who nad (/. j6s) been missing since the 3d, and whose absence exated much uneasiness. They informed us that, after fo lowmg us the first day, they concluded that we must be behmd, and waited for us during several days, when they were convinced of their mistake, and had then come on as rapidly as they could. We made some presents to the two traders, and then proceeded, till at one o'clock we joined our friends and companions under Captain Clark. and'ttoTnr'h'' '"' u"' l"" '"" """'"' [^^^^"^'"^^ ''^^ ^-°"". hunting and t ap.ng beaver ; that they had been robed by the indians and the former wounded ast winter by the Tetons of the birnt woods . . . bu w re sTi d ern..ned to proceed. I gave them a short description of the Missour a ■s of d.stances to the most conspicuous streams and remarkable place on the r.ver above and pointed out to them the places where the beaver most abound d. I also gave them a file and a couple of pounds of powder wi I some lead, these were articles they assured me they were in great want of mv wounds feel ve^ stiff and soar this morning but gave mel. considerable pab' there was much less mflamation than I had reason to apprehend there would be. I had last evenmg applied a poltice of peruvian barks. At I P M I a7:;rhtin:Tn''^^'^"' ^^"^^"' '^^ ''- ^^^^^r.oi,.a-..,.,i:!n^j, as «nghtmg,n my present situation is extreemly painfull to me I shall desist lJ: L LbT" '"" '" ""' ''"' ^^^P'- ^- '^^ ^°"''"-''- <^f «- io-nX" anJv T'7^°^ ^T"'"" ^''^''' P"*y ^''^ '^' '^^"^^^ Dickson and Hancock sea ue'ti "? "^'"f '""^.' °"" '""^^ '"'''' '''^ '^'^''-'^ --'^. - ^i course sub! hou!; h T""' °' ^^P^"" ^'^'■'^'^ P^^'y ^''^^ "- --e -hite men though thus prior m the course of the narrative. Fc. various details of th^ penahrTnif / ^'^'T' '' ' ■^°'"' ^" '""^ '^'^^°"" ^ "">« ^^^^^^^ pen (Little Knife) creek, see the same date of Aug. 12th, p. 1175. I m m CHAPTER XXXIV. CAPTAIN CLARK PROCEEDS TO EXPLORE THE YELLOWSTONE. ^'"-M TlT'r""", T\"' "• '"'"^ "' ^'"'''* ''-r-Ch.rac..r of ,he valley rourth of July-loey strike the camp of Sept. 7th, 1805-Flower creek-fl-rk'. p/ of the Continenta. Divide-Glade creek, a bralh of' WiLom H "llj^^;,';,,''*:: gu de_t. hcreek-Horses lost-Wi,do„. river-I„ three forks-A hot springTnthe plai, wiadWeTsh h' ••'-"«\-^'^" ">'V have pa.„ed called Hot'sprlng, ^H - AUKU ' \2Z? A Z'T^'""""" """ "' "* ■''*° ^'"'"' *»•"« *- 'h« cache of August .oth, .8o5-Av>d.ty of the men for tobacco-Horse, brought back by Serjeant Ordway- ce-A d.visio,. of the party ; one to ,0 down the Jertersou in canoes w th tt baggage. Capta.n Clark and the other, on horseback-Service-berry valley -RaUsnke mou„ta.n-Beaver-s Head valley-Three-thousand-mile island-Beaver's-h ad-Mluth o Wisdom nver-Panther creek-Fields' creek-Camp of July 3.st. .8o5-Madi,on r ver where Sergeant Ordway and the horses had just .rrived-Ganati"n ! r- e^rnt Or": sZZt'Z ZVV:: ITT """ """" '" Mi-ouri-Captain Clark, with :en m n. bacajawea. h" b by and fifty horses, goes overland to the Yello-.-.tone-They reach the three fork, of Gallat.n river-Cross the watershed between the Missouri and YeMowstone the'w pT^r '^ ';'""-^-" "^- «o '"e Yellowstone, at a ^oin 48 mU o^ the Three Fork, of the M.ssouri-Down the Yellowstone-This river described-Shie^ ClbsTn 7""""°"~r?"" "-'-»'-" river-Brntton's river-Indian fort-Acciden tc G.bson-Rose nver -Canoes ,0 be built-Twenty-four horses stolen by Crow Indian -Two dan o "f P';."=''--S"S-"t Pryor and two n,en to take the remaining horses to he M.n dans or. the M.ssour.-Captain Clark to dcsceni the rest of the Yellolstone in the bor,; 'TTHURSDAY, July 3d. 1806.' On taking leave of Captain Lewis and the Indians, the other division, consisting of Laptain Clark with 15 men and 50 horses, set out through the valley of Clark's river, along [up] the western side of which they rode in a southern direction. The valley is from 10 to 15 miles in width, tolerably level, partially ' The thread of narrative now loops back to this date on p. 1066 of Chnp xxxii ^yhen tlje two parties separated at the mouth of TravelerLest creek .nd co ' Unue through the present and the following chapter, till August t' .h ,, , t ^m'atf°\" /:","?' "" ''^ '"■"''""• '^' "75. Captain Clark goes up he ma n fork of Clark's river." /.... the I^ter-root or St. Mary's river, to Ross- Hole; stnkes over the Continental Divide there, hy way of Clark's Pa s to cor- am headwaters of Wisdom or Big Hole river, whence he proceeds by Wi ^ I's rive? to" hrT7' T T' f" ''^'° '"^^"^^ °' '""^ J^^^-- = ''----" «hi nver to the ll.ree Forks of the Missouri, up the GalL.tin, and over to the 1118 THE ROUTE UP THE BITTER-ROOT VALLEY. 11,9 covered with long-leaved and pitch-pine, with some Cot- tonwood, b.rch, and sweet willow on the borders of the streams. Amon^ the herbage are two species of clover • one the wh.te cl,.ver common to the western parts oi leaf iTt ^^^'^"'Z'^'-- ^''^- "^"^h smaller, both in lea and blossom, than either the red or white clover and particularly relished by the horses. After cross- ing eight different stream., four of which were small, we halted at the distance of 18 miles on th. uppe {p.j67) after dmner resumed our journey in the same direc t.on we had pursued during the morning, till at the distance of 18 miles further, we camped ' on the north side of a large creek. The valley became more beautiful as we proceeded and was diversified hy a number of small open plains abounding with grass and a variety of sweet-scented plants and watered by ten streams' which rush from the western mountains with considerable velocity. The mountains hcmselves are covered with snow about one-fifth from the top, and some snow is still to be seen on the high points and in the hollows of the mountains to the eastward. In the course of our ride we saw a great number of deer, a betT'TV ""'' r^" "'^ ^'" "'"""^^^ '»"'' ''"-" 'he Jefferson we have been over before and may now pass cursorily ; the rest of th s journey is new nd of great .mportance ; it will therefore require studious attention, especially « It p Is. ju?;;!'' "" ^"'"'"^^^- '''' ''''- '- ^«"- ^^ ^'-^ ^. K^^-in" As to the composition of Captain Clark's detachment : The codex has " with men. the number not bemg filled in. and the " 15 " of the text is a mistake There were 31 men. i woman, and i child on the Expedition : see p. 257 Can' tarn Lews was gone with 9 other men-Gass, Drewyer, the two Fields Werner Fra.er. M'Neal. Goodrich, and Thompson-leavin/cJptain cLkl th 20 othe; men^ and he woman and child, all of whom started with him. This is confirmed by the roster of Captain Clark's party, on July 13th : see note -. p. ,,3, In the vicinity of Corvallis, but on the other side of the river » Among the 18 creeks from the west of to-day's march may be named Big T.mber Kootenay, Lower Big. Sweathouse. Fred Burr. Mill, and perhaps Upper B,g : the last ,s very hkely the one on which was camp. The route is up the eft (west) hank of the nver. which was passed down on its east bank. Sept 8th and 9th, 1805 : see pp. 587-590, and notes there. !'•» ■■^y " I r f ii iJ I 11 I IH I II20 UP THE BITTER-ROOT TO ITS TWO FORKS. single bear, and some of the burrowing-squirrels [S^ermo- philus colu ibiamis] common about the Quampsh flats' The mosquitoes were very troublesome. Friday, July ^th. Early in the morning three hunters were sent out. The rest of the party having collected the horses and breakfasted, we proceeded at seven o'clock up the valley, which is now contracted to the width of from eight to ten miles, with a good proportion of pitch-pine though Its low lands, as well as the bottoms of the creeks' are strewn with large stones. We crossed five creeks of different sizes, but of great depth, and so rapid that in pass- mg the last several of the horses were driven down the stream, ana some of our baggage was wet. Near this -iver we saw the tracks of two Indians, whom we supposed to be bhoshonees. Having made i6 miles, we halted at an early hour for the purpose of doing honor to the birthday of our country's independence. The festival was not very splen- did, for It consisted of a mush made of cows and a saddle of venison ; nor had we anything to tempt us to prolong it We therefore went on till at the distance of a mile we came to a very large creek, which, hke all those in the valley had an immense rapidity of descent ; we therefore proceeded up for some distance, in order to select the most convenient spot for fording. Even there, however, such was the vio- {p. 368) lence of the current that, though the water was not higher than the bellies of the horses, the resistance made in passing caused the stream to rise over their backs and loads. After passing the creek we inclined to the left and soon after struck the road which we had descended last year, near the spot where we dined on the 7th of Septem- ber [1805]. Along this road we continued on the ivest side of Clark's river, till at the distance ^f 13 miles, during which we passed three more deep, large creeks, we reached Its western branch,^ where we camped ; and having sent out * The Nez-perce fork, which by uniting with the East (Ross') fork, composes the river u, which we have come ; see Sept. 7th. p. 586, and note there. " This being the day of the declaration of Independance of the United States and a 11 I A !.' ROSS- FORK AND HOLE-FLOWER CREEK. „2i sisted of four deer • thnnr^i- , ^ ^°"'^''y '^°"- hadTa"le„ ,„ ,T' "' f"" ""= "vcr, whici, wc found «aa lallen to the same depth at which we found it l-,rf autumn and along its eastern bank to the foot o til to et our horses graze, near a spot where there Ja, -, L :.rp::ce"de":faru?L:r?rk\^^^^^ tt °"^ "r crossed the r.ver, wh.ch we perceived took its rise from a Day commonly seiebrated by mv countrv T h=^ .he "' 'he glades are great numbers of holls made by the wh.stling. or burrowing-squirrel [S/. Jl/,Z ro/umiianns^ ■ and wc l= atlas in : ;;;,:;rcX> ua"'T; 'z '^r "•"'■ j -^-'^ '• ■•-■^ °» •» Gibbon. P"(mi.pri„,:,'r^l; ..'::• ,;::;-^^^^^^ ^"^ kno„„ „ ■«92. whem also Gibbons.ille, „„ ,he fork of fS .' J r."?. '°"""''' Gibsonsville : see note • o „,1 ti! '°''' '" ""'"'• " '«'"='» ton, U. S. A., who /oas'h^ChL; T l"""! '''""■"'='"'>'»'" Geneml John Gib- Aug. „h and 0,h ,8,f Ld wI/rM '" " "'""'' "'"'"' "" "■= ^^ "o". men,, as weU a, ot his',™ e h^ ug " H^ g™ "= ''" P"""'"-' "■= »S.g.- »as dose by the confluence of Glal creek ^hl , ",* """'• ™* "i^'" R.iby creeks (see note ' o „ai r , ^ LV ""' ""™ »' "°™" •»■' tain Clark's „„■„ " esnecia v J^""'"''''^' '«"!"' >» the Meli.yof Cap. the greatest p,e. rl X J^ TnT„rc"' """'"'>''='• '"= -«»'i-1 "th which, howe er is lettered Z , t™''""""" "■= "™' " Glade " creek, name L ,his t'e.n^^ T^lrrer i , "'" ^ ""'"o ■'"">•' °' '"X »the; noUitherto published, ^l^k^f h5r„rr:p" ^'— ' J"'^''^- rT i. "''^" '"''^'"S ''^e old rout on which we came o„t to the right on a course nearly S E ^ " Thence N. 80" E. through a leavel pineyCountn; on ihe "too'of" miles. 'W 'F 2.Kr.iles. I !'^ 1124 GLADE CREEK, A TRIBUTARY OF WISDOM RIVER. the coincidence of a buffalo [trail] with an Indian road was the strongest assurance that it was the best. In the afternoon we passed along the hill-side north of the creek, till, m the course of six miles [N. 68° E.], we entered an extensive level plain. Here the tracks of the Indians scattered so much that we could no longer pursue a road ; but Sacajaweah recognized the plain immediately. She had traveled it often during her childhood, and informed us that it was the great resort of the Shoshonees, who came for the purpose of gathering quamash and cows, and of taking beaver, with which the plain abounded ; that Glade creek was a branch of Wisdom river ; and that on reaching the higher part of the plain we should see a gap in the moun- (A 370) tains, on the course to our canoes,' and from that gap a high point of mountain covered with snow. At the distance of a mile we crossed a large [Pioneer'] creek from the right, rising, as well as Fish creek, in a snowy mountain " Thence S. 50° E. down the branch crossing it frequently & through small glades on either side of the branch the glades at some places %, a mile wide with several small streams [one of them Trail creek, from the left] falling in on either side up which there is small glades to the narrows, N.S. [north side] 7. miles. " Thence N. 68° E. keeping down the North side of the creek on the side of the hill, the bottom of the creek small open and much fallen timber to an extensive bottom S. side 4. miles. " Thence S. 56'' E. through an open Leavle [level] plain passing a large [Pioneer] creek from the right at one mile to a quavmash flatt through which a small [Swamp ?] creek runs scattered through the bottom and Encamped 5 \m\^% "26 miles." 8 Which had been cached Aug. 20th, 1805, at the Two Forks of Jefferson river. 'Heading in the Main Divide, S.E. of Brown's peak, and thus leading up to Big Hole Pass, the "gap "of the text, where it connects with the Datongo branch of Fish creek : see note -, p. 578. The "gap " pointed out by Sacajawea, toward which Captain CLrk is holding the course S. 56* E., is under Bald mountain, in the range W. and N.W. of Bannock City, which latter is on Willard's (Grasshopper : note ■^\ p. 501) creek. The " small creek " on which to-night's camp is pitched is one of numerous western tributaries of Wisdom river, not easy to specify by name— perhaps i ■ np creek, near the mouth of which, on Wisdom river, is a place called Wisdom. U'.. w \ WISDOM OR B,G HOLE PRA.R.E AND RIVER. ,,25 Z "d'":^hV''"^" " ^'P- ^°°" '<'"■ °" »«™di„g a rising ground the country spreads into a beautiful plain rlit. H„u pra.ne] extending north and south about 1= mTl^= ? ! 30 in length, surrounded on all side, bv hlh n . ","■" ""'' tains covered with snow, among which wf s th '"°""" out by the squaw, bearing S. 5I E wlhad nft'' ""T" n..i., from the last [PionLr] creek wh™ weter'o'v:! 1° solid column";:";rotect 'ourSv™ Vor*"' r a'n"dT ' selves W "" '^ ""''"'' ''"' "''= "«'" =""1 dried our selves. We here observed some fresh siirn, nf T, a: Z had been gatherint? auama.h n a- f^ I''dians, who /«/.7i In rZrtitg ?„ trTer::re"\ scattered that, although we sfnt out hun ersl^ vel 2t .on to range the country for six or eight mite Tint '; them could not he rprr>,.or^^ 'ri ""icb, nine ol of all our h??l= '^"^^^^'^^d. They were the most valuable ot all our hoises, and so much attached to some of their t me. We therefore presumed that they must have been to th. . I ^""' ^^" P"""^"''' ^hile the rest went on to the spot where the canoes had been deposited. We set out at ten o clock and pursued a course S. 56° E. across the times follo^'intn old t Th^'fl T V'^'^' "^ ^" '""^ ^•^^ ^■^^' --- miles [from camp! we arived at a\ t""<^ ' "''P""'' ^^ ^'^^ ^'^'^"^ ^^ ^^ a large Easterly fork of the S-n 'i'"^ '^ "^°"' '°° P^'^^^ ^^"^ oppotiteandE^ofthelfoirf LnSl'"-' leave, open vally plain and nearly tains to the S. E and S W of th.^ >'"Z "''"'' '^'"''^ '" '^' ^"""'^X '"°""- precision ; whth is f"; Jnate a H '""'" "' " "" ■''"' '"^^ "'^^ -""'-^e and its tnln-tt iftill ulet ler"";r "' these reaches of Wisdom river know of) for any of he reaT. T, " ''' "° '"°'^"" "^"^^ ('^^t I -e. caiLd Aiari^jir r;rSi^- ^ r L.:: ^"^ - ^^^^- i 1 :3: . % ^ it Am ii !''S1 m iW I- 'I 1 1 26 HOT SPRINGS VALLEY— WILLARD'S CREEK. valley, which we found to be watered by four large creeks, with extensive low and miry bottoms; and then reached [and crossed] Wisdom river, along the northeast side of which we continued, till at the distance of i6 miles we came to its three branches. Near that place we stopped for dinner at a hot spring situated in the open plain. The bed of the spring is about 1 5 yards in circumference, and compo- (/>. jji) sed of loose, hard, gritty stones, through which the water boils in great quantities. It is slightly impregnated with sulphur, and so hot that a piece of meat about the size of three fingers was completely done in 25 minutes. After dinner we proceeded across the eastern branch, and along the north side of the middle branch for nine miles, when we reached the gap in the mountains, and took our last leave of this extensive valley, which we called Hotspring valley. It is indeed a beautiful country; though inclosed by mountains covered with snow, the soil is exceedingly fertile and well supplied with esculent plants ; while its numerous creeks furnish immense quantities of beaver. Another valley, less extensive and more rugged, opened to our view as we passed through the gap; but as we had made 25 miles and night was advancing, we halted near some handsome springs which fall into Willard's [Grasshopper "] creek. After a cold night, during which our horses separated and could not be collected till eight o'clock in the morning, July St/i, we crossed the valley along the southwest side of Willard's creek for twelve miles, when it entered the moun- tains ; then turning S. 20'' E.came to Shoshonee cove, after " The trail after dinner was. Clark M 57 : S. 45'' E. 5 ms. up the N.E. side of the middle fork of Wisdom river ; then N. 50° E. 4 miles to the gap. crossing a small branch from the left at 2 miles, and camped. "After taking dinner and letting our horses graize i hour and a half we proceeded on, crossed this Easterly branch and up on the N. side of the middle fork 9 miles crossed it near the head of an Easterly branch and passed through a gap of a mountain on the Easterly side of which we encamped near some beautiful springs which fall into VVillards creek," Hid. This sets the party in the pass S.W. of Bald mountain and N.W. of Bannock City, on an upper course of Willard's or Grasshopper creek, probably that now called Divide creek. I i : ■ -4.., racAcnmo at two forks of the jefferson. ,,27 riding seven miles; whence we proceeded down the west br.,ncl, , <.., l'ra,necreek"J of Jefferson river, and at the dis tance of n.ne m.Ies reached its forks, where we had deposit our merchandise in the month of August | ,805]. Mos ° he men were ,„ the habit of chewing ,ob,tco and uch was their eagerness to procure it after so long a privation tia th" scarcely took the saddles from .heir horse.' bejorethev ran Z he cave Lcache], and were delighted at being ab ■ oVeTum: tins ascnat.ng indulgence. This was one of the severTst pnvafons winch we had encountered. Some of the mc" whose tomahawks were so constructed as to answer theTur' poses of p,pes, broke the handles of these instrum .nt, and after cuttmg them into small fragments, chewed tl ™ ri.e wood havmg, by frequent smoking, become stron,"; m- ( A J7^ prcgnated with the taste of that plant. We found everything .safe, though some of the goods were a l^tle damp, and one of the canoes had a hole The ride of th ! day was 27 m.les in length, through a country diversified by low marshy grounds and high, open, stony plains, term nated by h gh mountams,on the tops and along the northern i^des of winch the snow still remained. Over the whole were sea tered great quantities of hyssop and different specie!"' shubs common to the plains of the Missouri. We had now crossed the whole distance from Traveler's rest creek to the head [Two Forks] of Jefferson river, wh,"h ...1« n'milf „e„' ".rr'cVeT '"" '?'"* '="'" °" "" «■«•• "0' tho fork . . . , ,„i|e, ,„ „„, „,„;,„, J"' ""','.'=» ... • '"' ■>« -lo-vn Kt.t';;rLi .r£^ aS' T^^^^ ■ 1 7 (I iij ii H ii u II28 THE START DOWN THE JEFFERSON. f ' I I I' I ', !■ i i I seems to form the best and shortest route over the moun- tains, during almost the whole distance of 164 miles. It is, in fact, a very excellent road, which by cutting a few trees might be rendered a good route for wagons, with the exception of about four miles over one of the mountains, which would require some leveling." /u/y gf/i. We were all occupied in raising and repairing the canoes, and making the necessary preparations for re- suming our journey to-morrow.'* The day proved cold and windy, so that the canoes were soon dried. We were here overtaken by Sergeant Ordway and his party, who had dis-. covered our horses near the head of the creek on which we [had] camped ; though they were very much scattered, and endeavored to escape as fast as they could, he brought them back. The squaw found to-day a plant which grows in the moist lands, the root of which is eaten by the Indians. The stem and leaf as well as the root of this plant resemble the common carrot in form, size, and taste, though the color is of somewhat a paler yellow. The night continued very cold. /u/j' lot/i. In the morning a white frost covered the ground ; the grass was frozen, and the ice three-quarters of an inch thick in a basin of water. The boats were now loaded, and Captain Clark divided his men into two bands, one to descend the {p. 373) river with the baggage, while he, with the other, proceeded on horseback [down the river, too, en route] to the Rochejaune [Yellowstone river]. '8 It seems almost incredible that the modesty or the indifference of the great explorer should have led him to dismiss this part of his route without further remark. A road for 164 miles, fit for wagons except at one point, across the great Continental Divide— we hardly realize what it meant to make that discovery in 1806. No one of the three Continental Divide passes made by the Expe- dition has as yet been utilized for a railroad ; but there will doubtless be one in time from Dillon to Missoula by the way of Clark's Pass, or near it, and practically on the route taken by Captain Clark in passing from Traveler's-rest creek to the Two Forks of the Jefferson. '•» " I had the canoes repared men & lodes appotioned ready to ei ibark to- morrow morning. I also formed, the party to accomp me to the river Rejhone [Roche-jaune] from applicants and apportioned what little baggage I intended to carry as also the spear [spare] horses," Clark M 60. DOWN THE JEFFERSON BY LAND AND WATER. 1129 After breakfast the two parties set out, those on shore sk.rt.ng the eastern side of Jefferson river, through Servke -berry] valley and over Rattlesnake mountain, into a beau ' nl' /u r'T '''"""■^' ^"°^" ""^°"S the Indians by the name of Hahnahappapchah. or Beaverhead valley, from the number of those animals to be found in it. and^lso from a pomt of land resembling the head of a beaver. It fth^ valley] extends from Rattlesnake mountain as low as Fraziers creek, and is about 50 miles in length in a direct ent creeks -'The T'^' '" ^^^"^°" "^^^ ^"^ ^^ '^^^' ent creeks The valley is open and fertile ; besides the ninumerable quantities of beaver and otter Jith which its creeks are supplied, the bushes of the low grounds are a favonte resort for deer; while on the highef parts of the valley are seen scattered groups of antelopes, and stH fur tl cr, on the steep sides of the mountains, are observed many bears. At the distance of 15 miles the two parties stopped to dme ; when Captain Clark, finding that the river became wider and deeper and that the canoes could advance more apidly than the horses, determined to go himself by water eaving Sergeant Pryor with six men to bring on the'^hore .' In this way they resumed their journey after dinner, and camped on the eastern side of the river, opposite the head of Three-thousand-mile island [see p. 482]. The beaver were basking m great numbers along the shore ; there were also some young wild geese and ducks. The mosquitoes were very troublesome during the day. but after sunset the weather became cool and they disappeared 7ufy lUh captain Clark sent four men ahead to hunt, and after an early breakfast proceeded down a very narrow chan- TrnVl!^''^',Tu',"T '" P^'''"^ *™"g'^ ^^'^ ^*"y ^«<=eives M'Neals creek al mT ' ^^;^^^"^'^-P^y"-'-. Wisdomriver, Fieldsriverand Fraziers creek '' the si ieTut-" rr ' '■'^f 1°"' ^■'' °^ ^'^ p""^'p^' *"^"'--. -j^ "- i r"i f- , f >M.a M'f I [.. 1130 TO THE THREE FORKS OF THE MISSOURI, nel. rendered more difficult by a high southwest wind, which a^d'r^TJ ^^^^^'^'^y "fountains in {p. j^) that quarter and met them m the face at every bend of the river/which now became very crooked. At noon they passed the hi^di pomt of land on the left, to which Beaverhead valley owes Its name, and at six o'clock reached Philanthropy river wh,ch was at present very low. The wind now shifted to the northeast, and though high was nuch warmer than before. At seven o'clock they reached their camp, at the entrance of Wisdom river, of the 6th of August [see p. 465]. They found the river very high, but falling. Here Ihcv overtook the hunters, who had killed a buck and some young geese. Besides these they had seen a great number of geese and sand-hill cranes, and some deer. The beaver were in great quantities along the banks of the rivers, and through the night were flapping their tails in the water round the boats. Having found the canoe which had been left here as they ascended, they employed themselves, July 12//. t,ill eight o'clock in drawing out the nails and makmg paddles of the sides of it. Then leaving one of their canoes here, they set out after breakfast. Immediately below the forks [confluence of Wisdom with Jefferson riverl the current became stronger than above, and the course of the river straighter, as far as Panther creek; after which It became much more crooked. A high wind now arose from the snowy mountains to the northwest, so that it was with much difficulty and some danger they reached, at three o clock, the entrance of Fields' creek. After dining at that place, they pursued their course and stopped for the night below their camp of the 31st of July last. Beaver young geese, and deer continued to be their game, and thev saw some old signs of buffalo. The mosquitoes were still very troublesome. July iith. Early in the morning they set out, and at noon reached the entrance of Madison river, where Sergeant Pryor had arrived with the horses about an hour before The horses were then driven across Madison and Gallatin OVERLAND TOWARD THE YELLOWSTONE. 1131 rivers, and the whole party halted to dine and unload the canoes below the n.outh of the latter. Here the two par! AJ7J ties separated. Sergeant Ordway with nine men set out in SIX canoes to descend the [Missouri! river while chr of cht ^'' ''' ^^"^^^"^"^ ^^"' ^"^ ^'- ^^^'^^ child of Chaboncau, were to proceed by land with fiftv horses, to Yellowstone river." Vhey set out atf^: in the afternoon from the forks [Three Forks] of the Missouri in a d.rc. tion nearly east; but as many of the horses ha^' ore L I ^V7f °^ '^^'^ '° "''''' ■'^'^^^•'y' ^"^ ^f^er going four miles halted for the night on the [north] bank of Gallatin river [opposite Logan]. "' ^alJatin This is a beautiful stream, and, though the current is raoid and obstructed by islands near its mouth, is na' g ble T^r canoes^ On its lower side the land rises gradually to u" toot of a mountain running almost parallel to it ; but the country below it and Madison river is a level plain cove ed at present with low grass, the soil being poor and inlu cd by stones and strata of hard white rock alo'ng the hillsides Throughout the whole, game was very abundant. They procured deer in the low grounds; beaver and otter w re seen m Gallatin river, and elk. wolves, eagles, hawks crows and geese at different parts of the route The plainTas intersected by several great roads leading to a gap in he mountams.-' about 20 miles distant, in a direction E.N. E.; "Approximately by the present railroad route via Bozeman from Gallatin Cifv Gibson, Interpreter Shabono his wife & child and my man y^rk h' o , ' and a colt riTrl- m f,^ tu- ^ ' ' ^^''" 49 horses ^ The mountains directly before Canfiin ri^t-i- f ii G.ll..,„ „v„, „„,h o, Bridge, I...t and n„„h of M,. Ellis. This ".h. glp » ( ■r; *, i ,1v ^''^iii II32 WEST GALLATIN RIVER. I i I J I I if f ^ but the Indian woman, who was acquainted with the coun- try, recommended a gap more to the southward. This course Captain Clark determined to pursue; therefore, at an early hour in the morninfj, ////y 14///, he crossed Galfatin river in a direction S. 78« L., and passing over a level plain, reached the Jefferson [./.-read Gallatin again""] at the distance of six miles. Ihat river is here divided into many channels, which spread for several miles through the low grounds, and are dammed up by the beaver in such a manner that, after attempting n vain to reach the opposite side, the party were obliged to turn short about to the right, till with some difficulty they reached a low but firm island, extending nearly in the course hey desired to follow The squaw now assured Captain (/>.J76) Clark that the large road from Medicine [Sun] river to the gap [Bozeman Pass] they were seeking crossed the upper part of this plain. He therefore proceeded four miles up the plain and reached the main channel of the river [i. e the West Gallatin], which is still navigable for canoes, though c'reattrvTc^tlf '"''^^'T^""'*^''''''^ '"'''^" -"-- -'^<"^- been of mm to take. He very sensibly followed the advice of the remarkable 1, cIp the ''7'''"^ 'y '"^'^" '^' B^^^'"^" P'-'^s between the ranges named, and strike norciilfii'' '" t'* .""' '°^" '"" "• """»■'• C'P'»i» Clark did L cod 'll^'""" "' ' ''"""■>» ■■ S- 78° E". he simply cro„eJ i, ,h, only „.y ne could, at Logan, and then nroceeded S ino v \x 1 • '/way river till he strurll ,/,„,• P"^""^^^'' •^- 78 E. over the plam south of this him\wth thetladi " '^T'~''y "° ""'^^^ '^e "Jefferson," which was behind ti rhe sm, k itf • W ".",""' • "' "^"' ^^^'""'^ -"''^ «f "- Gallatin u • • . . struck tast Oallatm river at ts " three forks " »' ^ It": '^L:;f '' '''- ''^^^-^ ^-'«- "-^- N.. and BteL teek • s" Ixteti !f """"^ °^ ^°==''"'^"- ■'^^•^-J-wea's knowledge was certainly ain C IrV i the""'^; JH^'^'i '° '^^^'■'^'"^' "^"^ °^ ^^^'^^^^^ informed Cap!: Helnl a^d ti ^■"r^i^'Shway from Fort Ellis or Bozeman to Gallatin City and EAST GALLATIN RIVER. e coun< . This fore, at "33 m t. <•., much divided and dammed up by multitudes of beaver. Having forded this river, they passed through a little skirt of Cottonwood to a low open plain, where they dined. They saw elk, deer, and antelope, and in every direction the roads made by the buffalo, as well as some old signs of them. The squaw informed them that a few years ago these animals were numerous, not only here, but even to the sources of Jefferson river, but of late they have disappeared ; for the Shoshonees, being fearful of going west of the mountains, have hunted this country with the more activity, and of course driven the buffalo from their usual haunts! After dinner the party continued, inclining to the south of east, through an open level plain [in passsing which Middle creek was crossed], till at the distance of twelve miles they reached the three forks of [East] Gallatin river. On cross- mg the southerly branch [Bozeman creek], they fell into the buffalo-road described by the squaw, which led them up the middle branch [main East Gallatin river] for two miles [toward Fort Ellis]. This branch is provided with immense quantities of beaver, but is sufficiently navigable for small canoes by unlading at the worst dams. After crossing it they went on a mile further, and camped [on a small branch of the middle fork, on the N.E. side "] at the beginning of the " East of Bozeman, and about opposite Fort Ellis. This most interesting Itinerary has to be pricked into the text. Except when he was floundering in the sluices among the islands of West Gallatin river, Captain Clark almost stepped off the very track of the N. P. R. R. from Logan to Bozeman, under the guidance of the faithful Sacajawea. The direct distance by rail is scheduled as 25 miles. Clark M 68 : " After dinner we proceeded on a little to the South of East through an open leavil plain to the three forks of the E. branch of Gallitines River at about 12 miles, crossed the most Southerly of those forks [Bozeman creek, at Bozeman] and struck an old buflalow road the one our Indn woman meant which I kept continuing nearly the same course up the middle fork crossed it and camped on a small branch of the middle fork on the N E side at the commencement of the gap of the mountain." (See also formulated courses and distances, in next note.) Of the two forks of East Gallatin river the northern one is Bridger creek, whic^ hows south along the east side of Bridger range, past Hardscrabble, Russ' and Bridger's peaks, and thence west- ward through Bridger cafion to its confluence with East Gallatin river near Boze- man. The south fork is Bozeman creek, which arises in and about Mystic lake .f 1^ if- w. I .ri ii "34 BY BOZEMAN PASS TO THE YELLOWSTONE. gap in the mountain, which here forms a kind of a semicircle through which the three branches of the river pass Seve al' r.a s come in from the right and left, all tending to the gap A httle snow still remains on a naked mountain to the eas^ ward, but m every other direction the mountainsare cover d Kith great quantities. yn/j^ iVh After an early breakfast they pursued the to t^ r.t "ir '"" ^"^f''°^'•^ '=-^''°"5 ■■" ''= "'-" near wM h th f 'f'"" ^^ ""'''"'^J '»* °' G="latin river, near w, ,, .^ey had eamped last evening, and at the dis tance of s,x n„les reached the top of the dividing ridge [Bozeman Pass] which sepa-(AJ77) rates the waters of tte M.ssour, and the Yellowstone; on descending this ridge they struck one of the streams [Billmans or Trtil c eeW oj he latter nver They followed its course through aTopc„ country, w.th h,gh mountains on each side, parti Jly covered w, h p,ne and watered by several streams, crowded as usual .th beaver^lams Nine miles from the top of the ridge they reached the Yellowstone itself, about a mile and a hSf fromrt LT'^ "'"•■"." '-'^"^^ f'-^'-g'' Lower canon II om the Kocky mountains." It now appeared that communication between the two Bo"=L?" rt mnn,' "' '°" """"««"•"■' "> i« »„(lae„» j„s, below ™ .= .1.. CivUle, ,„e C.,.,.i„ Cark p„,e. L„ S:;.! o'Clt"' "" Am,le„rtwoabove sit. „t p„,e„, ,„„„ „, I.i„ ,,„„ ,.»,,. c„M„„, »..45 m,las „„„h of Ve,low.,o„. National P„u, .vhe' a b a„ „^ ,1 "n p' name, ,„ ,he geographically i™p„„a„, „„an,. Te Z e.d „ I .r' "° ... o, Mi.onri .„ .. Ki.„ Koo.eii.one Clr^tfrL^KX r;:" I , t two THE GALLATIN-LIVINGSTON TRAVERSE. 1135 rivers was short and easy. From the head of the Missouri at Its Three Forks to this place is a distance of 48 miles the greatest part of which is through a level plain ; indeed, from the forks of the eastern branch of Gallatin river [i. e., Three Forks of East Gallatin river], which is there navigable for small canoes, to this part of the Yellowstone, the distance is "S. 85J E. 6 Miles through an open plain crossing a ridge to gallitines river It having made a bend to the S.W. Campd. " S. 78° E. 6 .Miles to a part of the river which is divided by numbers of beaver dams on one channel of the river, passed through an open leavel butifull p am covered with low grass, river making a bend to the N.E. from the place [Logan] I crossed it this morning. . . " ^" ^u°?' ^ ^'''^' '° ^^^ ""^'^ principal stream [West Gallatin] of the river which we crossed having crossed several streams near the crossing, a leavel firm plain on the Island. " ''^' l^° \ " '^^''^' *° '^^ "'°'' southerly [Bozeman creek] of the three Easterly branches of the Easterly fork of Gallitines river, passed through an open leavel plain in which there is three [one of them is Middle creek] Small streams of water from the snow mountains [Gallatin range] to the South marked my W.C. July 14th. 1806. with powder on a cotton tree at the river. " ''''■,?°I ^' \ ^'"^' *° '^^ ^"*'"*"'=^ °^ ^ '"'^" '''•^"^'^ ^hich falls into the Mid- die branch of the East fork of Gallitine River having crossed the middle branch at 2 miles, . . . encamped. . . " N. 45° E. 3 Miles to the top of the mountain in a low gap [Rocky Cafion] pass- ing up the [middle] branch [of Gallatin's river] on which we encamped ast night. "^ " East 3 Miles to the top of the dividing ridge [Bozeman Pass] between the waters of the Missouri and those of the river Rochejhone, passing down a small branch and at 2^ miles crossing a larger branch of the middle fork of the East fork of Gallitins about % a mile above the branch I came down running to the right a road coms in from the left which passes through a low gap of the mtn. from the most easterly branch of the East fork ^^ .u J-,r"'f '^°'''" ^ '""'" '"■'''"''' "°''"^ '^^° ™"« ^'0"i the left passing on the hillside to the left of the branch. ^ " N. 75- E 8 Miles to the River Rochejhone passed down on the Northerly side side of the said branch [Billman's or Trail creek] across which there is sev- eral beaver dams, crossed three small streams from the left with running water one of which is crouded with beaver dams, a small stream [Coke creek] corns in on the right at 6 ms. Struck the Rochejhone % a mile below the branch we came down and i^ ms. below where it passes out of the Kocky mountains. ... " Ms. 48. " (Gallatin City to Livingston is scheduled as 53 miles by rail.) I"' m. mI i-i •f' h' n ' .\\ 1 f1 !i; ill 1 .. t '* ■X; i' * 1 i II36 fi r\ Hi . ■if I II III If SHIELDS' RIVER. no more han ,8 miles, with an excellent road over a higl, dy country, w.tl, i,il,s of inconsiderable height and no d.lKculty ,n passing. They halted three hours to rest their ^it^:!:::r"'"' "'=''"«»'°-^ aiongthecJ^^:? Although just leaving a high snowy mountain, the Yellow width The bottoms of the river are narrow within the mountams, but w.den to the extent of nearly two miles in he valley below, where they are occasionally overflowed the so.l g,ves nourishment to Cottonwood, rose.burhes and"rch ^'"''"' """"°" ^°^- S--. ^ =P«ies o rye and such productions of moist lands. On each side these owgrounds are bounded by dry plains of coarse gravel and pled ir "^ '\* '° "■' '°°' "' "-^ "-"'-"^ and sup phed w th a very short grass. The mountains on the east s.de of the nver arc rough, rocky, and still retain great quan t. .es of snow ; two other high snowy mountains may be di -" ear alt' °Th h'"" ""'"^ " °^ ^° ""'-• *' °*" Pine ,,or L ^■'' ™ "° "^"'"g '^''"Pt ^ '<=^' »<:attered tTb; een 'At.r'H'7 """r '' "" "™ ^ ='"^" ""- mountaTn , r "'f.''f =■"« °' "'"= (A J7*) miles from the mountam, a nver discharges into the Yellowstone from the northwest, under a high rocky cliff [Sheep Cliffs] It riss torn the snowy [Crazy] mountains in ftat diit on s som"' fj; "f '• ''^^ ' ''°"' ""P ^""-' ■■ - ski^ed'by ston! .^""''"^^"'Is and willow-trees; and, like the Yellow- stone Itself, seems to abound in beaver. Thev Mve it ,h» name of Shields- river.- after one of the l^'Zll't . :! STINKING CABIN AND OTHER CREEKS. 1137 ately below is a very good buffalo-road, which obviously eads from ,ts head, through a gap in the mountain, over to the waters of the Missouri. They passed Shields' river and at three miles further, after crossing a high rocky hill' camped m a low bottom near the entrance of a small creek. As they came through the mountains they had seen two black bears and a number of antelopes, as well as several herds of elk, between 200 and 300 in number ; but had been able to kill only a single elk. Julyim. A hunter [Labiche] was dispatched ahead while the party collected the straggling horses. They then proceeded down the river, which is very straight and has sev- eral islands covered with Cottonwood and willow; but thev could not procure a single tree large enough for a canoe and being unwilling to trust altogether to skin-canoes' Captain Clark preferred going on until they found some timber. The feet of the horses were now nearly worn to the quick, particularly the hind feet, so that they were obhged to make a sort of moccasin of green buffalo-skin, which relieved them very much in crossing the plains After passing a bold creek" from the south, 20 yards wide, are Cottonwood. Flathead Fly, Pine, Brackett, Rock, Wood, Rabbit, Willow and Falls creeks, m the order named from above downward. This stream and Its nbutar.es drain between the Crazy mountains and Bridfjer ranTe Th.r a place called Shields at its mouth, and a little lower do^n'the yJLsIn on stzrer'sir;^; "' '"^'°" '-' ''' "^ '- "-- ^-^^ «3 Unidentified. Several small streams come down from Sheep Cliffs Camp is about opposue or rather above a large creek from the south or right now cXd Skull or M.ss.on (see next note) ; a little lower down are Lock and Gre y ere ks on the same s.de ; between these is Elton station, on the N. P R R ' "Clark M 75, July i6th, from camp : " N. 8o» E o mile, to . Ri ff on y by d.rect.on. not for position, on this course of nine miL ; it is charted ly the three last named ; but may be identifiable by its description. Distances are overestimated to-day, and must be adjusted with the first " 6^ " miles of m 1) ii' H :l^i ;-:M In II38 " RIVERS-ACROSS.' '\ .,fo,„j which they had not seen before ; it was eight inches lone and resembled a trout in form, but itsmouth^as lik ha oi the sturgeon, and ,t (/. j^p) had a red streak passing on each s de rom the gil s to the tail. In the plains were' but few plants except s,lk.grass, wild indigo, and sunflower, which arl KHV all ,n b 00m The high grounds on the rive; are faced w th a deep freestone rock, of a hard, sharp grit, which may 7l «/" '"P"''""'"'"" ^'"'^ throughout the plain, had „^ / ■ k" "'1 ■'"""S the night, and as the party ,te" 7"'"^ ,' " ".""^'"-kin, they rose drenched with ^ater. Pursumg the.r journey at an early hour, over the pomt of a r,dge and through an open low bottom they reached at the distance of 6-4 miles, a part of the ie^ "here two large creeks enter immediateiy opposite eich o her, one from the northwest, the other from the so h of southwest. These Captain Clark called Rivers acros"!" to-morrow, which bring us to " Rivers arrr,« " fj,» i .. ,. • McAJow',c.r,o„ ri.-T ,"'""'"■ "''"'ly"'"""™-!."".! .h>.s m„d, above rail below Livi„s«o„ (ZhL. he crva.of f. "•; ""^"•"'f ' '^^ » ""1== by Men^eohaTs are Ga,U., a'd An 1 pt . ' D/rctek 7 T'^f " H,,„,e.s I,„. SpHn^s, i, a very .ho„ .,i,.r„;e above LTe„ J,' °" '""* " Thi. A™UTrre;c"e'et'""'- "" ''"" '"'-' ' '"""P'^.' «-... M „. ""Rivers a Cross," Clark M 77 , " Rivers across," M 76 • elsewh.r. K- .he„ wbleb „e ,M „„. *. Thece (r./ibe n„,;M:„l'':r„":X tII: o,^ L N P R '; "V'f ,""" "■°" '" "■""' '• "™ "" '»»■■• -' 1% Timber .he N. P. K. K., scheduled as ,5 n,ile. by „.il below SpHngdale. The o.herone if < * ' !■ m ■ u [:l> OTTER, BEAVER, AND BRAXTON'S RIVERS. ,,39 yards in „,,.H,^:^HVHlL"ntror" .11^^' f .s now becoming more divided by islands TnH^ ^''l'"" -^.™ll creeks fall in on bo.l, sidel The |a"L 07^7 about seven miles from R^., • '^'^gest of these is right ; .hey call d t Zton's ■• riv"T' "' ™'"= °" *^ north of Yellowstone Park Its mah, ! ' ,"^ '''' ''^^''^'^ ^^^^ b"' l'«Ie some extent the present Crow IndTl. "'";"' """' '"■■' '^^ether delin.it to below Rivers-across a consiZaWe s " 1 Tn " " "" ""' '^"'■" ^ '""^ does not notice, but the c:;ittes"^ N ^^^ E ^r!:; "T"; ''''' ''' "^' brook in the Lard, bend," Clark M 7, Tl, \A. ^'' '° '''" *^"^^^"^e °f a civil and military maps before mt \- . "' ^^dicme-bow creek of various Timber sheet of fhTbLS us ot;V '''''''' '^' ^^-'^d on the Big c.."::^i:::;:r:rtr;::f::r^^^^ and 7K from Rivers-across, Clark m" has '^tIT^ f I'" '"'-"^'"^^' Side." Fortheexplanatio,^ we mus turn todar^M «"'?1 '"'' °" ^"^^ ''^'^^'^• attempting to mount his horse afte sJoot 1 , ,°' ^"'' '''^ ^ "^"^^°" '" and runt [ran] it nearly two nch s nto ^^^ f'f "'"' '^'^"'"^ ''^' °" ^ ■'^"^g snagged creek^s that n'ow k^ w'a L^e Drt ^r n '' "^■" ^'''^'^- parallel with Lower Deer or Bi^ Deer l u ^^" ^''"" "'"'^- ^' ^""« falls into the Yellowstone' ^ '''' '^°"' '^° "'"^^ ^^ove which it kn^wTls HrrE:-; ?:;'; " ^'"^ '-^"'^ '^ ^ ^^-^ «^ -- --, otherwise -^^otrs;f;tri:^-Lx--™^^^^ i;'!i *. '■'ill y# ''M Fill I' hi ^ I II i i 1 140 WORK, HUMP, WHITE BEAVER, BERRY, AND KEYSER's. more scarce than before. In one of the low bottoms of the river was an Indian fort, which seemed to have been built last summer It was built in the form of a circle, about fifty feet m diameter and five feet high, formed of logs lappmg over each other, and covered on the outside with bark set up on end. The entrance was guarded by a work on (/ jSo) each side of it, facinrr -be river 1 hese intrench- ments, the squaw informs us, ■ .,uently made by the Mmnetarees and other Indians . .r with the Shoshonees when pursued by their enemies on horseback. After mak- ing 33 miles, the party camped near a point of woods in tlie narrow bottom of the river. /u/j im.^" Before setting out they killed two buffaloes which ventured near the camp, and then pursued their route over the ridges of the high lands, so as to avoid the bends of the river, which now washes the feet of the hills. Th° face of the country y, rough and stony, covered with immense quantities of prickly-pear. The river is nearly 200 yards wide, rapid as usual, with a bed of coarse gravel and round stones. The same materials are the basis of the soil in the trn'strif ""'7 °' ''' """'"^ '"^ °' ''' P^''""""^ two trails northward on The sS 7".^ ""','' ^'^ "°'^'- "^'^ ^°^^'' ""''-^ " - --" brook Work creek T^ ^ "'" '''°" ''""°"'^' ^^"^'^^ '"^^ ^^^ ^''^ = this is \Vork creek The codex notices another creek from the south, three miles lower down, wh.ch Clark N X3X calls Weasel creek; this is Hump creek," o m mjes by rad below Greychff. To-day's camp is set two or three miles below this '"July i8th is barren in the text, but the codex is fruitful of notable points them by name, between Bratton's river and the Rosebud (Stillwater) He first passes WhUe Beaver creek, N., which corresponds to the "Dry Cr " of h s map Belcnv th.s he crosses the boundary between Park and YelLstone counTes' Merril is fn t ^' ""• T'l'' u ' "'""' '° '"" °" ''' ^- ^'"^^ ^^ '^^ ^^ killings, comes the Fort Cr. of Clark s map, which is Keyser's creek, fallincj into the water, which town is eight miles by rail below Merrill. To-day's camp is on an island, near the mouth of the Rosebud. ^ ^ °" ^" ITCHKEPPEARM, ROSE, OR ST.tLWATER R.VER. ,,4, high bottoms, with a mixtur- of ^ i u rivcr-hills are about C f e ^hil m /""h "f"' ""''^ freestone rock; the count™ hi. / '"ced with a dark open waving pia Ls. P nt^.^' ^^ "f,"'™ -broken into tance; but among the sma er nl ^^ ^"""'^ °' '""P°'- purple, yellow, and black cur Int ^^Tu""^ distinguished ofanexcellentflavor "'"''"'' """ "°" "P<= -"d -tr^hirmtrnTt^t^o^k"^"'" '° '^' ^•^-- most probably as •. si™, , .. '''^ "ountams, intended mistaken us for i, ir e^erlie '"%C™7.I"dians, who have them. They fwe could no .' "^ ''""''' '° "'^''^ "'"> truth of thfs coicture k 't T""' '""' '° ''""''>" ""^ another old Indian1,:ii™tLr^ -^ »"" P-ing for the night on a smnM^ ^ r " ^^'''"day, halted last evening One of t, """'' '""" "'= "■"? ■>' mount his Lrs?:Listor/L^e?,:;;tr^;;"^'° not for their grfai allfetv to T T^ P^'"'"'' -"= " -son, the pfrty w:"!^; t "e T^ i„*J .^^h^^ '"'" '"'' but time was too precious to waTt '™ ""''='' ' wa^;itre^er::er»r ^"''T'-^ (A ^^') horse a manner as to entw; the 'T °' """ '""""^ '" -^" ■cnsth. Theythrp';oc'e:de7'ger,r:nfat":r'^d" "" Of two miles passed a rfv.r . • ' f ^^'^ distance side, about 40 vards wT "TT^. ^'""^ '^' ^°"^^^--^t A Rose " or " Rosebufl " ' i, ™^P. ; but must not be confounde7wilh'hr' !f^''"' " '^'" '°"'" °" --« farther down the Yellowstone, bet e Lh ^''""V^" ^"-'^-l --, much Itchkeppearja river is charte by C I . f .™ ^""^^ "^-^- '^'- P--"t -ain courses, I3ig and Little Rosebud and ZT f \ ''" '"™"' °^ ^'-^^ now take the latter name, and fl ,w il^h; T ' "''°" ^""J""""^^ ^^'-^ -tor (town). The old Crow Ag c^ ^ ^ tulTT' T'' °PP°^'^^ ■^''"- gency vas on the first-named of these branches. m 1 1 i ii I'm Ii 1 142 GIBSON'S PAINFULLY SNAGGED THIGH. I W' ■ i ; I IJ' i t 1 ' .;i t / , ■-'■! :-;'^/' )• ■ K 1 :. i 'h j: t; 1 fort on an island ; and after making nine miles halted to let the horses graze, and sent out a hunter to look for timber to make a canoe, and procure, if possible, some wild ginger to make a poultice for Gibson's thigh, which was now exceed- ingly painful, in consequence of his constrained position. He returned, however, without being able to find either; but brought back two bucks. He had a contest with two white bears which chased him ; but being on horseback he escaped, after wounding both of them. There are great quantities of currants in the plains ; but almost every blade of grass for many miles has been destroyed by immense swarms of grasshoppers," which appear to be ascending the river. After taking some refreshments they proceeded, and found that the hills became lower on both sides; those on the right overhanging the river in cliffs of a darkish yellow earth, and the bottoms widening to several miles in extent. The timber, though chiefly cottonwood, is becoming large. They had not gone far when Gibson's wound became so violently painful that he could no longer remain on horse- back. He was therefore left with two men under the shade of a tree, while Captain Clark went on to seek for timber. At the distance of i8 [?] miles from his camp of last night he halted near a thick grove of trees, some of which were large enough for small canoes, and then searched all the adjacent country till evening, when Gibson was brought on to the camp." The game of to-day consisted of six deer, seven elk, and an antelope. The smoke which had been {p. j82) seen on the 17th was again distinguished this afternoon, and one of the party reported that he had observed an Indian on the highlands on the opposite side of the river. '^ Caloptemis spretus, the now famous Rocky Mountain locust or hateful grass- hopper, which does almost incalculable damage to the crops. " This camp, where the party will remain till the 24th, and the location of which is to be sought, is given as 16 miles by land below the Itchkeppearja, and 29 river-miles above Clark's Fork. Certainly no such distance as 45 miles intervenes between these two fixed points. The distance by rail from Stillwater to Laurel is scheduled as only 24 miles. Reducing our figures by rule of three, but taking into consideration that he reaches this camp by land, and then proceeds to CANOE-BUILDING IN CAMP COTTONWOOD. 1 143 Sunday, July 20th. At daylight two good judges of timber [Pryor and Shields] were sent down the river in quest of lumber, but returned without being able to find any trees larger than those near camp ; nor could they procure any for ax-handles except choke-cherry. Captain Clark determmed therefore to make two canoes which, lashed together, might be sufficient to convey the party down the river, while a few men might lead the horses to the Mandan nation. Three axes were sharpened with a file, and some of the men proceeded to cut down two of the largest trees on which they worked till night. The rest of the party were occupied in dressing skins for clothes, or in hunting, in which they were so fortunate as to procure a deer, °two buffalo, and an elk. The horses being much fatigued, they were turned out to rest for a few days ; but in the morning, July 2ist, 24 of them were missing. Three hunters [Shannon, Bratton, and " Shabono"] were sent in different directions to look for them ; but all returned unsuccessful, and It now seemed probable that the Indians who had made the smoke a few days since had stolen the horses In the meantime the men worked so diligently on the canoes that one of them was nearly completed. Late in the even- ing a very black cloud, accompanied with thunder and lightning, rose from the southeast, and rendered the weather extremely warm and disagreeable. The wind too was very high, but shifted toward morning, July 22d, to the northeast, and' became moderately cool. navigate, we can hardly allow him more than twelve miles of actual advance to-day. Th.swouldbnngh,m somewhat below Trout Rapids and the railroad station caled Rap.ds which latter is three miles below the point where Hensley creek falh m from the north. As no rapids are noted on the first day's voya/e, July =4 h he was doubtless past this point. I give the last course, Clark M 84 Last 3 ms. on the course to a clump of large Cottonwood trees in a Lard Uend passing several Islands river much divided and crooke.l. high yellow Rlufis on the Stard. Side under which part of the river passes. The bottoms wide '•'^rrbr/'^ '"^'- '■'^- ^"^^■"p^^" ^s--- ^'-^^ ^ ^3: ;:': CS^ Black bluffs opposit to the place Capt. C. built 2 canoes." These details maybe found to fit a place on the north bank of the river, ^H J",TXo^. Rapids station, one mile above the entrance of Rye Grass creek fr'om the soutZ Ml '•1 .1 ii ( t'ir -. 'ij > ! / ;■■ 1 144 TWENTY-FOUR HORSES STOLEN BY THE CROWS. Three men [two, Pryor and " Sh.vbono "] were dispatched •n quest of the horses; but they came back without being able to discover even a track, the plains being so hard and dry that the fc . makes no impression. This confirms the suspicion of their being stolen by the Indians, who vvould probably take them across {/>.j8j) the plains to avoid being pursued by their traces; besides the improbability of their voluntarily leaving the rushes and grass of the river- bottoms to go on the plains, where they could find nothing but a short dry grass. Four men [Pryor, Shannon, Bratton, and bhabono J were again sent out with orders to encircle the camp for a great distance ; but they too returned with no better success than those who had preceded them. The search was resumed in the morning, July 2yi, when a piece of a robe and a moccasin were dis- covered not far from camp. The moccasin was worn out in he sole, still wet, and had every appearance of having been eft but a few hours before. This sign was conclusive that the Indians had taken our horses, and were still prowling about for the remainder, which fortunately escaped last night by being on a small prairie surrounded by thick tim- ber. At length Labiche, who is one of the best trackers returned from a very wide circuit, and informed Captain Clark that he had traced the tracks of the horses, which were bending their course rather down the river toward the open plains, and [judging] from the tracks, were going very rapidly. All hopes of recovering them were now abandoned Indians are not the only plunderers which surround camp ; ^I^TT '^r '^" '"''?'' °^ ^"'"'^ "^^^ ^^^"^ '^^ ""^'l^- -n^l about the same below the upper end of Billing's ditch ; if so, they serve to fix precisely the spot where Capta.n Clark first found cotton.voods large enough for cano!' and whence he proceeded wholly by water to St. Louis. These 'canoes wh^;^ .1 Bk die on the 24th „,st. takes the truly poetic license of calling "a little flotdla. were snnply a pa.r of dug-outs lashed together with raw-hidel but they d,d wonderfully good service, and were not turned adrift till the morning of Sept c^i: car/c^rn:::^ '"'' '-''- '-'' ''-''' '-- ^ -- ■> -^ ^ p-p- - K ' IIP" Ills DIVISION OF ;a« "A. CLARK'S PARTY. 1145 for last night Jic wolves or dogs stole the greater part of the i't'enllT' K T, '^' ''f ^"'^- ^''' ""'^^^^ ^'^'^'^ constantly attend the buffalo, arc here in great numbers, for this seems to be the commencement of the buffalo country. Ik-sides these are seen antelopes, pigeons, doves, hawks, ravens, crows larks, sparrows, eagles, bank-martins, etc.; great num. bers of geese, too, which raise their young on this river, have passed the camp. The country consists of beautiful level Plams, but the soil is thin and stony; both plains and low^ grounds are covered with great quantities of prickly At noon the two canoes were finished. They are 28 feet long, ,6 or 18 inches deep, and from 16 to 24 inches wide. Bemg lashed to- {/>.jS^) gether, everything was prepared tor settmg out to-morrow. Gibson had now recovered bergeant Pryor" was directed, with Shannon and Windsor to take our horses to the Mandans ; and if he found that Mr.' Henry was on the Assiniboin river, to go thither and deliver him a letter, the object of which was to prevail on the most disfnguished chiefs of the Sioux to accompany him to Washmgton. " This further subdivision of the party is given in Clark M 88 : " I gave Sertrt SlZonVw'f °"r': ^'""*° ""'■ "^"^y f-3and derected'that he S Shannon & Wmdser take the remaining horses to the Mandans. where he is to nqu,re for Mr. H . Ileney [sic] if at the establishment on the Assinniboin i v r lV^ ? VI '^ °'''' ""'^ P-"""^*^ °" '° '^'' P'«^« -"^ deliver Mr. Haney best informed and most influential chiefs of .■..• different bands of Sieoux to accompany us to the Seat of our Government with a view to let themTe o^r population and resourses &c. which I believe is the surest garentee o7 Savage fidelity to any nation that of a Governmt. possessing the power of pu„i hS promptly every aggression." s. f ^^ punisning IB,: I !. " '> &ii i i\ fe i \4' ■i' in it . It ': r ■■ Wi ,' (i* . I r, ■ !'( It r {It t ti:(i: il-i!.^ ■ t ^ «r ! I -» , ■| I if': CHAPTER XXXV. CAPTAIN CLARK DESCENDS THE YELLOWSTONE— REUNION OF THE EXPEDITION ON THE MISSOURI. ^"'cTrJ.TTr '"' '""^ "'""" "" Y«"°*»"'"«-Cap..in Clark d..cend. th. river- sZJj"v '" "'"""""'-LarK^ Indian lodge-Hors. cre«k-Many buffalo- n/mel . '"' tv7" J"' "" horses-ITyor'. crcek-Rcmarkal.le sculptured rock named I'ompey'. .'.liar-Extensive prospect- The party reaches the mouth of'he Bi«ho „ -Last vew of the Rockie,, in sight since May-Klk creek-Windsor's river-La Se mer-Vano,.,.r.bu.ar.esof the Yellowstone, including that now called the Rosebud- Tot^gue r,ver-Buffaloshoal,_Uear rapids-York's Dry river-Redstone (Powder) Ker- Wo raptds-Coal r.ver-<;ibson's river-Progress obstructed by buffalo-Trou >1 w th T^!"n:r '\r7T"-'-'''' """-^-Pat mou.h of the Yel,owsto„e. A « 3d. .8o6-Rev.ew of the Yellowstone and its tributaries-Various Indian tribes norcdi Jerrnt^p'" •' '"°"""'°"' ""= "-'/ »'-" ''own the Missouri-White-e r h et Sergeant Pryor s party arrives and reports; the Indians had stolen their horses ■ tbev had gone to the Yellowstone near Pompev's Pillar in,! r^m. i .u • ".: "'*> "'"' bull bmt, Th- .. •, A ' <"npey !> f illar, and comedown that river in improvised r;r -TAuTtthrs"" ""'• '-"'' ''- '-"'''- "•' -•>- --^-"" 'TTHURSDAY, July 24th, 1806. The canoes were loaded. ^ Sergeant Pryor and his party set out with orders to proceed down [the left bank of the Yellowstone] to the entrance of Bighorn river, which was supposed to be at no great distance, where they should be taken in the boats across the Yellowstone. At eight o'clock Captain Clark embarked m the little flotilla, and proceeded very steadily down the river, which continues to be about 200 yards wide and contains a number of islands, some of which are sup! plied with a small growth of timber. At the distance of a mile from camp, the river passes under a high bluff for about 23 L?J miles, when the bottoms widen on both sides At the distance of 29 [?] miles, a river falls in from the south. This IS the river [we] sup- (p.jSd) posed to be the Bighorn ; but afterward, when the Bighorn was fo'und, the name of Clark's fork was given this stream.' It is a bold river, 150 yards " Still so named ; to be found also as Clarke's. Clarck's and Clake's fork or nver. Proceeded on verry well to a riffle hout i mile above the enterance 1 146 CLARK'S FORK OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 1 147 wide at the entrance, but .1 short distance above is con- tractcd to 100 yards. 'Ilic water is of a light muddy color and much colder than that of the Yellowstone; its general course is south and east of the Rocky mountains. There is a small island situated immediately at the entrance; this or the adjoining mainland would form a very good position for a fort. The country most frequented by beaver begins here, and that which lies between this river and the Yellow- stone is, perhaps, the best district for the hunters of that animal. About a mile before reaching this river, there is a ripple in the Yellowstone, on passing which the canoes took in some water. The party therefore landed to bail the boats, and then proceeded six miles' further to a large island, where they halted to wait for Sergeant Pryor. It is a beautiful spot with rich soil, covered with wild rye, a species of grass, and some of another kind which the Indians wear in plaits around the neck, on account of a strong scent resembling that of vanilla.' There is also a thin growth of cottonwood scattered over the island. In of Clarks fork or /'(:,•■ horn rhvr a river 150 yds. wide comes in from South we thought it the B. H. but aftds. when we found the H. H. we called it Clarks fork a bold river washing plain— The Indians call this or ' The Lodj,'e where all d^nte,' " CI .rk M go, where an original writing is interlined in red ink as here .(uoted, but without ileletion of the other text. The missing Indian name I suppose to be Ap-sah-soo-ha, as lettered on Clark's map, which see. This is by far the largest branch of the Yellowstone thus far met, and one of the four largest tributaries of this noble river. The town of Laurel is nearly opposite its mouth ; above is Park City, on the N. P. R. R. Young's Point was passed early to-day ; also Valley creek, N. ' Vicinity of Cafton, Canon, or Canyon creek, from the north ; place of same name at its mouth, nearly halfway between Laurel and Billings. At a point up this creek will be found on some maps the legend " Sturges Bat Field "—which being interpreted means that here General Sturgis, U. S. A., had an Indian fight. A short distance below Caflon creek a stream falls in on the right, from the south. Clark M 93 notes it exactly, at a point he makes 105^ miles below Clark's fork: "A large brook in a Stard. Bend, opposite a stony bar." This is now called Blue creek— one of very many we find in the Yellowstone Codex, but of which the text takes no notice. '" A mixture of sweet grass which the Indians plat and ware around their necks for its cent which is of a Strong sent like that of the vinella," Clark M 91. This is the well-known holy-grass, Hicrochloa borealis, also called seneca-grass. » - '1* i!li|i A ' % :im i ' I: I "48 HORSE AND OTHER CREEKS, NEAR BILLINOS diameter at the base I .^ °' "" '™'=' «° '"' "> long and .Ki:crmfr„ra„dth:° r'r-"'" « ^^^ ered with buslies The int ' ^"'"^ structure cov- Onthetopso hen^le rT ""'""''y "lamented, lar pieces of wood w th Tl '^"' "' "«=''='^- ''"•^ ^"^^- a girdle; from thet^ er '*' '""" ""=» '" '^e form of skin, o; the side f^ntLir 7'"""'''"^ " ''"^"^ ^"""'o- on one side of tt lod^f b ffalXh™?""^ ? "^"-^-h ^ e-I pieces of wood stu* in tt gotd '' "f ^' "f'^V" "- appearance, it was more uL r , , ""^ "^ ^^^'^ than an ordinary dw^h^g.'ho^se.'^' '" """'"^ ""^"^ (A J^ of the river. " As to his distances, which certainly seem excessive, we must remember that what the text and codex both give is the 7vai'e of his ungainly craft— ^ cq\\^\& of dug-out Cottonwood logs lashed together— steered back and forth across the river amidst uncounted islands, and by no means to be taken as any sure indication of actual air-line advance, or even progress by land. It is most like the laborious ascent of the Expedition up Jefferson river, where the advance was >^, >^, even % of the actual navigation. When we correctly adjust his wake's mileages between any two known points, we find that the creeks, bluffs, and islands fall into \f ^ \l i << i'f ,1 it I iiSo BAPTISTE'S CREEK-POMPEV'S PILLAR. :! ifV''^ f^ta ^3^- :;;rr:z;:^:^^^ Tr- olled t.:'T:'.:r ''77^''' '""" °~ ".-: -d st^r^:— r■s.--:::'^rt Iti.^ca,•ly4oo paces in ci ui;sr::or. I "i ■■'•." accessible only fron, tl,e "ortheas, X/ We "b • " bcarin. S ° E ^nV " '"r""'"" ''^""^ ^o miles distant, tance of .VLlcs' th "\^ '"'"'"" ''• ^5° W., at the dis! the Litt e w: 7;^" !:;;f^'-" ^-^'^--'^y -^ what are called the river exte d I ^ '",«""^^'"^- The low grounds of rise n ; 1 ' '1^ "' '"'^^' ''^ ^^^^^ southward, when they into plains reachnig to the mountains, watered with a -ere talkin, alnlu \,u ' rT"' ''"'"' ^^'"^ '^-- -^at they I'ompeys mar r::^.^^^::^ ''f f ^ -'^1 fi- Htt.e in it but that does Capta;„ Clar f i ^ Lr' il "" 'T'' ^"•^"'^"^^- «"' see by the many new „oints Ion ""'''^' ^""^ ""'^' =^^ "'^ "ow to transcribe his^o 1 ^^ Js /'?;' '^ ""' °^ '"^ ^^^ = --' if I were every bh.ff. botton. a ul il ^J^T] '" '""• ^^'-^ ^''-''' «-' ^l-st of the whole Expe,i tion is ^ ' , ""'' ''"^ "■'"''"'="•>'• ^^o Part -tive as this veiLu::,re;,::; r:S' .r"^^^^""' '- "-^ '^"•"'^"-' -■ shirred. xp'orat.on. uh.ch may not unfairly be regarded as tro,„ ,l,e l.„ll n„„„„,,i ","■,;";'; '"' •» '«= •"'■-'""■••I- 1. co„,=. S.I£. POMPEY'S PILLAR— SHANNON'S CREEK. II51 large creek ; while at some distance below a range of high- land, covered with pine, stretches on both sides of the river in a direction north and south. The north side of the river, for some distance, is surrounded by romantic jutting clifTs ; these are succeeded by rugged hills, beyond which the plains are again open and extensive. The whole country is enlivened by herds of buffalo, elk, and wolves. After enjoying the prospect from this rock, to which Cap- tain Clark gave the name of Pompcy's Pillar," he descended and continued his course. At the distance of six or seven miles he stopped to get two bighorns, which were shot from the boat ; and while on shore saw in the face of the clifT on the left, about 20 feet above the water, the fragment of a rib of a fish, 3 feet long and nearly 3 inches round, incrusted in the rock itself, and neither decayed nor petrified, but very rotten [/. c, brittle or friable from exposure to the weather]. After making 58 miles they reached the entrance of a stream on the right,'" about 22 yards wide, which discharges a great quantity of muddy water. Here they » " East to Pompys Tower," Clark M 97 ! " rompeys Tower," Clark N 131 ! "Pompey's Tower," Clark's majx So our hero must have polished up his classics later, or perhaps had a shine put on them by his editor. " I marked my name and the day of the month and year " on the rock, Clark M 95. Mr. Peter Koch, of liozeman, and several other correspondents, have called my attention to the fact that Captain Clark's sign manual is still legible. I understand it to be in the usual form of his signature, "Wm. Clark." General John Gibbon, U. S. A., told me a few days ago that he had examined this inscription with care, and judged from its weather-worn appearance that it was actually made by Clark's hand, and not a recent forgery of some idle tourist. Pompey's Pillar is now also the name of a station on the N. P. R. R., scheduled as eight miles below Clermont and seven above Pull Mountain station. '<• -Shannon's river or creek, Clark M 96, 98, and N 131, given in both codices as nine miles below Pompey's Pillar. This name should not have been sup- pressed, especially as it was the point on the Yellowstone at which Sergeant Pryor's little party, having had all the horses they were driving to the Mandans stolen by the Crows, made themselves "skin canoes," «. e., bull-boats of buffalo- hide, as duly noted in the codex, and floated in these down the Yellowstone. At least three streams fall into the Yellowstone from the south between Pompey's Pillar and Bull Mountain station. Two of these are called Sand creek and Pull Mountain creek. Shannon's is doubtless the first one of these, heading about Pine Ridge. Forsyth's map miscalls it Pompey's Pillar creek. ' ' r ' J 'i,V ! i! If, If '■r .1 I il V' i f (H F,1 "52 VARIOUS CREEKS— BIGHORN RIVER. camped rather earlier than usual, on account of a heavv squall, accompanied with some rain. Early next mornrng 7«fy zm they proceeded. The riverisnowmuchdivTded by s ony ,s ands and bars; but the current, though swUt is regular and there are many very handsome islanl covered with Cottonwood. On the left shore the bottoms (* IZ rWr7™Tr^' *' "Sht bank is formed of higlfdfffs t^hl e tht ' r " 'k^'^ °' " '^'""^" "-'""y stone ;'beyond these the country on both sides is diversified with waving plams, covered w.th pine. At the distance of ten miles is f large creek on the right [left], about 40 yards in wTd h but contammg very little water; in ,he course of thr d'; are rr w^t [LT™; °"At 'ct "^^ r - ^°-* ^-- fh« . Vt. -'■ ^^ coming 62 miles, they landed at tween the two [nvers] composed of soft mud and sand liable to be overflowed, they ascended the Bighorn for haJf Captam Clark then walked up the river wV I ^^' "^'"u^"'" °^ ''^'" "^''^^' ^ ^"-eek 20 yards wide vh,ch from the color of the water he called Muddy ''c'ek falls m on the northeast; a few miles further die r^er bends to the east of south. The bottoms of the river are prlJjri^^:!:^ ?sif str r I '''-- • ^-*^- -- all four from their proper posidofs i ^ IV "^" °""' ''''' '''''''' side I call Hall's R. '• Clark Miox , t^' """^ ''° ^'^^ "'^^ '^'^ ^'^^^• Shannon's river This i „n. '„ ^ '^'' """^'"g '' ^° '"• below small creek on "he ^ - c 17^ S'^" " ^^""°" "^^•^- ^- "A "Asmall brookon th I a;d ' Qark M^z'ox tI^^ "n': ''°""''^'" "^'^•^- ^' of Riverside station or ConwJ,. W itf name l"';: k l? "^ hT ''' ff '^ abous on the opposite (north) side is called Hubb rd 4 J'^^ "^'^ ^ere- fa Is m on the Lard, side [I call it] Island brook," C L k M ioi 'Z'V above Junction Cily at '^^e^ '''"'' '"" "^^ "°^''^' ^ ^'^-^ ^^^'-ce thi; ffiHs;: K^r fd" le;:^ ^^^^ r • -' " ^-^^ »- -■•• - styled "Lit. Horn R ' ' ' ''^ '""" '^^^"'^'^ ^'''^ ^''"1- l%horn) is ■' Charted by Clark, nameless ; no. know. . Tullock's fork of the Bighorn ||< ... . . I THE BIGHORN RIVER, ETC. II53 extensive, supplied chiefly with Cottonwood trees, and va- riegated with great quantities of rose bushes. The current is regular and rapid ; Hke the Missouri, it constantly changes, so as to wash away the banks on one side, leaving sand-bars on the other. Its bed contains much less of the large gravel than that of the Yellowstone ; its water is muddier and of a brownish color, while the Yellowstone has a lighter tint. At their junction the two rivers are nearly equal in breadth, from 200 to 220 yards, but the Yellowstone con- tains much more water, being ten or twelve feet deep, while the depth of the Bighorn varies from five to seven feet. This is the river which had been described by the Indians as rising in the Rocky mountains, near the Yellowstone and the sources of the Platte, and then finding its way through the Cote Noir and the eastern range of the Rocky moun- tains." In its long course it receives two [several] large '■• The Bighorn is one of the three largest tributaries of the Yellowstone, Tongue and Powder rivers being the other two. All three rise in Wyoming ; the Bighorn rises by numerous affluents in the Shoshone range and Wind River mountains, S.E. of the Yellowstone Park. Its southernmost affluents rise in the latter mountains about the South Pass, near the heads of the Sweetwater, a principal tributary of the North fork of the Platte. Across the main divide here are the eastern headwaters of Grand river, which joins Green river to form the Colorado of the West. But some far more interesting than these now well- known matters are found in the codex, concerning the sources of the Bighorn, as then understood. The text gives no hint of them, and they have not hitherto been published. First examine Clark's map of 1814, and trace " Colter's route in 1807," as there dotted from Pryor's fork over to Clark's fork, thence to the Yellowstone, up this and around Clark's Lake Eustis (which of course is Yellow- stone Lake), thence around Clark's Lake Biddle (in which the Bighorn is made to head), thence over to heads of Clark's " Rio del Norte " (which is Green river), to Colter' sx\y&x (which is the Big Sandy fork of Green river), to the Bighorn, to Salt fork, to the Boiling Spring on Stinking Water R., and so down Clark's fork again to Pryor's fork. For much, if not most of this information, the great geographer was undoubtedly indebted to Colter himself, who certainly discovered Lake Yellowstone (Eustis), and whose account of the Boiling Spring foreshadowed our knowledge of the famous Yellowstone geysers. Lake Biddle, in which Clark heads the Bighorn, may be one of those immediately south of Yellowstone Lake, in the Park ; but is laid down more nearly in the position of Jackson Lake, under Mt. Moran, which is in the Snake river watershed. Stinking Water R. of Clark's map retains this name to-day. Clark N 125 has: " j;:gi= From the Fort [/. e. Manuel Lisa's] or enterance of Bighorn River the Lidians say a man on horseback I- ( i iii' 1 m j-.i i '\ \ it ' 1 f i ' "54 11' I I i f * ij('.' In r I- THE BIGHORN RIVER, ETC. 'it ! rivers, one from the north and the other from fh. being unobstructed by falls it is n.vVJ h '°"^^ ' The. ■: nt;r™t„ ":e";Lirr ,["t rrt country which it wiforc ic . ,, ^' D"* the whole ■he- i:„t Side of ,h, Klv„ .„„| eS,fl h ^"'°°°"""'• " "'"Pl'^on .he Mo„„.„. ,H„e ,s„.. sjch:';: ' 'h f^/^i ;?"■= "-'"" "°" in the cxtrern of Winter for mnnv n,;i i ^^ '■"'^'' '« "ot ^'rozen mountain a.K. the rivx.: a o u 40 ;"' Le iM* h' '° r ""°^ "^^'^^''^ '° ^^- only." Once more. Clark N 126 ... ' ^T ^""'^'^^'^'l to 10 yds. wide clianUersituatedatthefootoHherock .nZL ' '^'^ "' ^'°"' ^^° ^"^- "^ ruer (a hranch of Rocheihone) «: ri; r":::: :;:- ^i- he waters edge about 30 feet and o,-cupies about hJ\^' T^' "'" ^'°"' entire name. This was in -, L^a .u '^^^""ei or Port Lisa, or by his the mouth of the ^2 i m^^ d Ta7' °^ '''r^ ^^^ '^^- continued to be a noted point. cLTn iLT ' '"'' "' '''-»• ^"'^ '""^ this point : "An establishment w s m^I, b rr T""? '"^'"°-"^"- °n fron. St. Louis, at the Enterance of ill W , T^ '"'^ ""'^'"S Company -iles up that river in the fall ^7 fon w i f Th™ ?'^T "^° f ^'^^i'^-e 437 of Crow Indians-and took the Beave, "^ it r n' i • K T '""'">' '^^"''^ a Company formed of St. Louis [mer hit 1 Thai , o "m- '" '" '^" ^'°^ pany with 150 men went in to the Ro Tv mI . u '"'°"" ^"^ ^°'^- Clarks River, for the purpose of t.kei I ,h. T T ''°"' '^' ^'^^°"" -"^ the River Rocheihone' wheTe i Ite f the ZTm establishment on the 3 forks of the Missouri and [bla "k The C "'T °'" '''''" ^' ^^e established at the Bighorn Toine the s[ r "^T P^"^ ^'''^h first formed and himself had important bus n ss n erest in t. """ "^""P^"" ^^P'^" ^lark him, ant.i. '"'"'"''' '" ^^'^ ^^o^cern ; see the Memoir of !'('i i^i THE YELLOWSTONE BELOW BIGHORN RIVER. I155 of Crows, and the Castahana, a small band of Snake Indians. Sunday, July 27th. They again set out very early, and on leaving the Bighorn took a last look at the Rocky moun- tains, which had been constantly in view from the ist of May. The [Yellowstone] river now widens to the extent of from 400 to 600 yards ; it is much divided by islands and sand-bars; its banks are generally low and falling in; it thus resembles the Missouri in many particulars, but its islands are more numerous, its waters less muddy, and the current IS more rapid. The water is of a yellowish-white, and the round stones, which form the bars above the Bighorn, have given place to gravel. On the left side the river runs under chrfs of light, soft, gritty stone, varying in height from 70 to 100 feet, behind which are level and extensive plams On the right side of the river are low extensive bottoms, bor- dered with Cottonwood, various species of willow, rose- bushes, grapevines, redberry or buffalo-grease bushes, and a species of sumach ; to these succeed high grounds supplied with pine, and still further on are level plains. Throughout the country are vast quantities of buffalo, which, as this is the running-season, keep up a continued bellowing. Larfre herds of elk also are lying on every point, so gentle that they may be approached within 20 paces without being alarmed. Several beaver were seen in the course of the day ; indeed, there is a greater appearance of those animals than there was above the Bighorn. Deer, however, are by no means abundant, and antelopes, as well as bighorns are scarce. ' "Clark N 125 specifies as bands of Crows : " Ship-tah-cha a band of Crow lnd.a„s of X50 Loaves and about r 500 soles rove on Bi/horn River & Roch jVone Ap-sha roo-kee a band of Crow Indians of 200 Lodges and about 2000 soles rove onthelonge R.ver, b.ghorn & River Rochejhone." The latter is of course Bld?;;"^"' ^'"7'" ^""^ "''''' further says: - Es-cup-scup-pla Band of Tushapaws speak their language and sometimes rove on the waters of the Rojhone, of about 80 Lodges 8cx) Soles." For the " Yep-pe Band of Snake Inds xooo Souls." see Clark's map ; which see also for the' location of ;: Castahana tnbe m the text. " 1500 Souls." See also pp. 58, 59 and notes there. i;.| ^il 11 ; §1 lh 1 ' ' t i 1* • 1 ^ m ^ li M I m V,\'\ :)• I • f,i I f H\' I I i I i\ f t If ^ '•'' ''.! ■M,: f;' 1 1 56 ELK CREEK— WINDSOR'S AND LABICHE's RIVERS. At 15 miles from Bighorn river they [had] passed a larjre dry creek on the left, to which they gave the name of Elk " {P'J9n creek, and halted for breakfast about three miles further, at the entrance of Windsor's" river, a stream from the left, which, though 50 yards wide, contains scarcely any water. At 48 miles from the Bighorn is the large bed of a stream, 60 yards wide, but with very little water They called it Labiche's " river. Several other smaller streams " or rather beds of creeks, were passed in the course of the day and after coming 8o>^ miles, they camped on a large island! /u/j 2S//1, At daylight they proceeded down the smooth gentle current, passing a number of islands and several creeks,' '• Name since changed to Alkali creek ; charted without name by Clark, as the firs stream below the Bighorn from the north. To reach it, he passed kllen coulee, on the north or left, with a place by its mouth called Etchetah ; then two islands, a high chff on the south, two more islands, and a bluff on the south • d!;? H fi ;'r, T't°' '^' '"'' "^"^ P'"^'' ^••^ ''''^- All these points are' duly cod.fied. Clark M X03. The high ground on the right is Guy's bLffs ; the low ground on the left is Pease's bottom. On leaving the mouth of the Bighorn Captam Clark passed from Yellowstone into Custer Co., on his left ; bufcon- n,"o U° r ""' "^r ^"^''" Reservation on his right till he strikes long. n „r . ^ '"■'^'" ^'""^ '^^ '°""^ '' '"'^'^^"^'i Al'^^li ^--eek on Forsyth's map ) Windsor s river is charted by Clark, but unluckily lettered " Little Wolf R '' m!' T % J' '' '^^' '"■'"" ^'■°"' '^' "°"'^' °PP°^*^^ ^'^e mouth of which is now the town of Myers, on the N. P. R.R., ten miles below Bighorn station. This stream is now called Van Horn's or Pease's river or creek. I had the pleasure of Colonel Van Horn s acquaintance, and would be glad of any honor due him but do not see how Private Richard Windsor can be rightly deprived of that which Captain Clark once bestowed upon him. '_» By the codex this is 45 (not 48) miles below the Bighorn; is marked " Ork-ta- ha on Lewis map of 1806, where Clark laid it down upon Indian information by an Indian name ; it is " Lebich R." of Clark's 1814 map ; " Labieshe's R.,'' Clark M 104; -Laabeech's R.." Clark N 132. It is now known as .Sarpy ;r Sarpies creek, from a trader who had a post below its mouth. The present own of banders, twelve miles by rail below Myers, is at its mouth, and will serve to Identify the stream, which ought to hear the name which Clark gave it Several other small streams " are noted by Clark with his usual precision and should not have been thus slighted in the text. First we have, from the south a lutle below Windsor's, Van Horn's, or Pease's creek, a stream now called Box-elder ; of which, however. I find no mention in the codex. Next the codex notes a cliff 60 feet high, " eight " miles below Windsor's river, on the north and in connection with this cliff the codex speaks of two dry brooks, both above Ik ii \ r LITTLE WOLF RIVER— TABLE CREEK. II57 V hich are now dry. These are, indeed, more like torrents ; ana like the dry brooks of the Missouri, merely serve to carry off the vast quantity of water which falls in the plains, and bring also a great deal of mud, which contributes to the muddiness of the Yellowstone. The most distinguished of these are : At the distance of six miles, a creek 80 yards in width, from the northwest, called by Indians Littlewolf" river. At 29 miles lower, another, on the left, 70 yards in width, which they call Table creek, from several mounds in the plains to the northwest, the tops of which resemble a table. Four miles further, a stream of more importance Labiche's river. One of these is that now known as Froze to Death creek (see miht. map, 1891, and G. L. O., 1892). Then comes Labiche's or Sarpy's river on the south. Next, the codex gives by name a li7n/, creek, on the north,' " seven " miles below Labiche's river, above a low cliff. This is evidently the creek that now rejoices in the name of Starved to Death creek. This creek may be identified by its position, on the north, in the vicinity of some white bluffs close to the meridian of 107" W. long., and so but little west of the eastern boundary of the Crow Reservation, where was old Fort Sarpy, on the south bank of the Yellowstone. See Clark's map of 18 14, and observe that both " f roze " and " Starved " creeks are there charted, though neither by name-one above, the other below, Labiche's river. Next, in the course of " 20" miles further, Clark notes two creeks from the south, each 20 yards wide. The last of these may be identified by the present site of Howard, on the N P R R ten miles by rail below Sanders. Then he goes a little further, and camps on a large island. •^""Z////^ Wolf river." To-day's course is full of snags, of which let the reader beware ! July 28th has never been satisfactorily explained. The actual geography, with which July 28th must be adjusted, is in its main features as fol- lows : (I, 2) A pair of larjie rivers, N. and S., next below Howard ; (3, 4) a pair of small rivers, N. and S., next below Forsyth ; (5) a large river, N.- (6 7) a pair of small rivers, N. and S., at Albright ; (8) the great Rosebud river, S.'; (9) a creek, S. ; (10) a creek, N. ; (11) a creek, S. ; (12) a creek. S. These twelve can by no means be found in the text, but they are nearly all in the codex, and those found there can be identified by Clark M 106, as f Hows : (I) On breaking camp on the 28th, below Howard, Clark shortly comes to a large river, 80 yards wide, from the N., " called by the Indians or Little Wolf river." This blank means that he had not the Indian name at h'and or in mind. This is the river he charted on Lewis' map of 1806 as " Little Wolf Mt. C." This is the river he charts on his map of 1814, but without a name- by some inadvertency of the engraver the name "Little Wolf" having been lettered in place of IVindsor's river (the third one on the north above where we now are). But the true Little Wolf of the text, of the codex, and of the 1814 i ■ t ii- m loi ti ,i!t \ I ;■ T I ' t i.n :fl' I 1 i ; .-i ' ■ 1 1 1 58 VARIOUS TRIRUTARIES OF THE YELLOWSTONE. enters behind an island, from the south ; it is about ,oo yards m w.dth w.th . bold current of muddy water, and is probably tl.e nver called by the Indians the Little Bighorn. Much further down there is] another stream, on the ri^ht. -5 yards wide, the Indian name of which is [not] Mashaskap. Nearly opposite to this creek they camped, after making 73 miles. The nver during part of the route is confined by cl.ffs. which on the right are of a soft, yellowish, gritty rock, while those on the left are harder and of a lighter color. In some of these cliffs were several strata of coal of different thicknesses and heights above the water; but like that of the Missouri, it is of an inferior quality. (P-J9-^) July 29M. During the night there was a storm map is easily identified as the Great Porcupine river of present maps from the north wuh the town of Ada near its mouth, with Cast! Butte on £ p,a7n off s le bank, about ten miles from the Vellowstone. and with a la^e iv from (2 Tlus last ,s the " four miles further " stream "of importance " ''behind I..che> . Sa,ie.s a Jt ^^^l ^^l^ LilSl Ct ^tZ Porcupine . makes the hrst pair of rivers. It is correctly charted by Clark on ri:er:;hfc; we te^-T"^ V'f ^ "-- R-.-neany^siteh- '«„, t'r name see note ^ p. ^24. '' ^'"'"^"«^' ^^^^ 'iver-for which ot creeks, one of which, on the north, is now called Short creek T fin 1 m nameai the codex "Table Brook" (... Table '' creek "or Table '.nv'r 30 yards wide, on the Lard, side nearlv drv " Ti,- • '' of 1814 charts it. but without any name. ^ (6, 7) Reaching the vicinity of Albrijjht on the N P R i' ,„^ r 1 • , Its mouth. These I cannot identify fn ^ the codex "u near chfU'bvalrf "'m"'!"" " ""'"'• ^"° y-'l^'wide. This was originally cha..ed by Clark on the Lewis map of 1806 as " Mar-shas-kass R " nnnn t ^- m LAZEKA OR TONGUE RIVER. II59 of thunder and lightning, with some rain ; a high northeast wind continued during the morning, and prevented the party from making more than 41 miles. The country resembles that passed yesterday; the dry beds of rivers continu. , and large quantities of coal are seen in the sides of the cliffs. The [Yellowstone] river itself is now between 500 yards and half a mile in width, and has more sand and bars of gravel than above. Beaver are in great numbers ; in the course of the day some catfish and a soft-shelled turtle S^Aspidoncctes spinifcr\ were procured. In the evening they camped on the left, opposite the entrance of a stream called by the In- dians Lazeka, or Tongue river." This stream rises in the Cote Noir [Bighorn mountains], and is formed of two spelling is simply because in Clark's MS. a p and a ss look alike.) It is the " Little Bighorn " of the codex, Clark M 105, 106, but not the " Little Horn " of his 1814 map. It is the "Little Bighorn" of the Bidiile text, but not the "Mashaskap" of that text. (It must not be ( -nfoundcd with the Little Horn or Little Bighorn, a branch of the Bighorn.) This is a well-known river, heading in the Chctish or Wolf mountains, and winding northward into the Yellowstone in Custer Co. It runs through the North Cheyenne Indian Reservation in one part of its course. Old Fort Alexander was at or near its mouth. ((>) Below the Rosebud, the codex first notes " a lirook on std. at 3 miK-,." This is the insignificant stream on which is present station Rosebud of the N. P. R. R., given as 14 miles by rail below Forsythe. (10) The Codex next has : " passed a creek on Lard.," opposite whi.h, on the south, is a cliff of "stone coal." This creek, from the north, is clearly Sand creek. (1 0 Below Sand creek, " passed a large creek at 6 miles on the stard. side, & 2 Islds." This is clearly Sweeny creek. Clark N 132 names it " Wood Brook." (12) Finally, we rejch acreek "inthestard. bend behind an island," 14 or 15 miles by the codex below Sweeny creek. Tliis\s, the "Mashaskap" of the text ! It is now called Oraveyard creek. Here Clark camps on au island, close by the town of ILithaway, on the N. P. R. R., n miles by rail below Rosebud station ; and right here, no doubt, before he slept, he wrote the notes wliich enable us now to identify no fewer than twelve streams which he dis- covered, but concerning every one of which he has from that day to this been reported wrongly or not at all ! All his fine w.,rk of to-day buried in oblivion— Graveyard creek ! •^' Text of July 29th is sadly defective, in giving only Tongue river by name. To-day's voyage passes many coulees or runs, seven of which Clark notices, SIX of which he specifies, and one of which he names. " Passed three large Dry Brooks on the Stard. Side, and four on the Lard. Side," Clark M 107. Six '\' I ft f i ; 1 ! 1 1 • 1 i 1 1 Il6o VARIOUS TRIBUTARIES OF THE YELLOWSTONE. branches, one having its sources with the head of the Chey- enne, the other with one of the branches [i. e., the Little Bighorn] of the Bighorn. It has a very wide bed and a channel of water 150 yards wide ; but the water is of a light brown color, very muddy and nearly milk-warm ; it is shal- low, and its rapid current throws out great quantities of mud and some coarse gravel. Near the mouth is a large proportion of timber, but the warmth of the water would seem to indicate that the country through which it passes is open and without shade. of these can be located by the courses and distances, M io8, 109. These I L'ive in substance : N. 25» VV. five miles to a dry brook in a starboard bend near highlands • passed eight islands. This brook, from the north, is now called Bu// creek • about opposite it is Ha^ukins creek, from the south. E. three miles to a brook in a starboard bend, below a small island. This is now Tepee creek. Then after nine miles— E. six miles to a bluff starboard, having passed at five miles a large dry brook starboard, " Turtle creek," named for Aspidonectes spinifer. This is also named m Clark N 132, where the Yellowstone points are tabulated. This is the creek at whose mouth is now the town of Horton, on the N. P. R. R., nine miles by rail below Hathaway. Opposite this, on the north, is Kellogg creek. N. 76" E. to a coal-bluff starboard ; passed a dry creek starboard. This is the first or second from the south below Ilorton, nearly on the boundary of the present military reservation of Fort Keogh ; probably that now called Moon creek. Then, after a mile further — N. four miles, passing a dry brook larboard and a dry brook starboard. Of this pair, the one from the south is now Indian creek, on the military reservation • place called Lignite at its mouth. ' Thence io>^ miles by the codex to Tongue river, past the site of the now flourishing Fort Keogh (named for a friend of mine who perished in the Custer fight), and camp on the north bank of the Yellowstone, opposite Miles City The last course notes " an island." This now called Reynolds' island. Some bluffs or cliffs passed to-day, on the north, are now known as Sundown Buttes. On the much reduced L. and C. map of the M'Vickar ed., 1842, is marked here " Monnels Ft., 1807." I suppose this to be a misengravement for Manuel's, I. e., Manuel Lisa's fort ; but it is not the Manuel's Fort of Clark's 1814 mapi this being at the mouth of the Bighorn : see note '«, p. 11 54. The Lazeka or Tongue is a great river, heading in the Bighorn Mountains of Northern Wyoming, draining also the Wolf Mountains of Southern Montana and coursing in a general N.E. direction to the Yellowstone. The headwaters of Powder river intervene between the eastern sources of Tongue river and the western sources of the North fork of the Cheyenne. BUFFALO SHOALS— BEAR RAPIDS. I161 July loth. They set out at an early hour, and after pass- ing, at the distance of twelve miles, the bed of a [Big Dry"] river lOO yards wide, but nearly dry at present, reached two miles below it a succession of bad shoals, interspersed with a hard, dark brown, gritty rock, extending for six miles ; the last shoal stretches nearly across the river, and has a descent of about three feet. At this place they were obliged to let the canoes down by hand, for fear of their splitting on a concealed rock ; though when the shoals are known a large canoe could with safety pass through the worst of them. This is the most difficult part of the whole Yellowstone river, and was called Buffaloe shoal, from the circumstance of one of those animals be- {p. 393) ing found in them. The neighbor- ing cliffs on the right are about 100 feet high ; on the left the country is low, but gradually rises, and at some distance from the shore presents the first appearance of burnt hills which have been seen on the Yellowstone. Below Buffaloe shoals the river is contracted to the width of 300 or 400 yards, the islands are less numerous, and a few scattering trees only are seen either on its banks or on the highlands. Twenty miles from those shoals is a rapid, caused by a num- ber of rocks strewed over the river; but though the waves are high, there is a very good channel on the left, which renders the passage secure. There was a bear standing on one of these rocks, which occasioned the name of the Bear [Yellow Bear, Clark N 132] rapid." As they were descend- " " Dry riv.r," larboard, Clark M in, N 132 ; " Big Dry R." Clark's map, 1814 ; a large water-course, coming from the north about opposite present town of Dixon or Dickson, on the N. P. R. R., eight miles by rail below Miles City. It IS now known as Sunday creek. Near the town is an elevation, now called Tower Butte, which did not escape Clark's eye; for he notes here " a high bluff." Within a mile or two begin the series of shoals or rapids called Buffalo in the text, and still known by this name. " Uiddle gives nothing between Buffalo and Bear rapids, but the codex is perfect. Omitting details, we find in Clark M in, n2, as follows, after passing Big Dry (now Sunday) creek: i. A "dry brook," N. This is now 5,7«a' creek. 2. A " large dry creek," N. This is now yT/«j/^r creek, whose mouth is about opposite Ainslie on the N. P. R. R. 3. A " large dry brook," S. This is now Cottonwood creek. 4. A " dry brook," N. This now Wolf creek! 'W\ i ■I r IV \1 I 1 1|.r , ., Ill;; if 'Wi\ Mi m'^ Li. 1162 ':" i '■ I W:t. I ! (I J If - •- 1. /| YORK'S DRY, POWDER RIVERS-WOLF RAPIDS. of a Hv„ on thelr.^r^ch'tirSe" ;t"v:;tral^ widened to the distance of a quarter of a mill h, t ?h , ^ rrr' ^'^r ■ '- '' y-^-'^^e/tht: " t; ^^r tt m .t tlian would easily pass through a hole of anlnch ,n d.ameter. It was called York's Dry river As soon as the rain and wind had abated, they resumed the r journey, and at seven miles camped under a spreadll an a"l:,f °" "■= '''' ^"'^' ^"" "'='^'"^48 miles. '^Tnlf and a half above on the opposite side is a [Powderl river .?muTh'"Jidr 'xf r""- °'™'"' '"-S" *eted i^e .i.ies of red stones; which^- ZltltrwrTIpr/ ance of the d.stant hills, induced Captain Clark to calurthe Ivedstone, wh.ch he afterward found to be the meaninVof Its Indian name, Wahasah." meaning of /"(y 3'st. During the whole nitrhr n,„ k a 1 tance of two miles passed a nn.'H ^f ^ '^'- '"eais- (A JP^f^) thev called Wr.lf " ^ r ^ "° ^'^^^ ^^"^^^r, which BiufT . K "^ ' '"" ""'"^ ^ "°^f ^^^-- At this Bear rapids,^ w ch i L'^v "'h'! ^'^^'^ °" ^''^ ^'-^- ->« ^^ ^hite [or Yellow] creek. Its mouth is in the vicinil "f E ^r.rT' J'" " """ '^"''"" '^^ ^'"^-'^ 9. Finally, passed Waha ah or r! Lt '"' ''"'^^"' "" "^^ ^- ^^ ^^ ^■ miles below its mouth at the entf / ''""' "°" ^""''^"' ^"^ ^^^^P^d i^ - " War-rak-sash o; Pow er R ' o7[: ""'"' '^^ f"' °" ''^ "°^''' Clark's map, x8r4. very ha! y chtted - ' v:,;^' °r' ," ^^'-'-- I^-'of N 132 ; " Redstone river," Clark Mxx2 ^cll7' wf "' ^""'" ^^^'"^ of Warren's map. Powder river is L I , ^^"'^P' ""' ^'''''^'' ^■" heads in Central Wyom n. n . ^.'■''' '''■'"*^'^ "^ '^'' Yellowstone ; it Platte and of hoth nZ^S ^^Xo^:^ ^IVj ^^^ ^^"^ ^^"^^ °^ ^'^^ River mountains by two main fnrbc T , ^ Cheyenne, east of the Wind into the Yellowslone. ' ""'^'' ^""'"^^ "°^^'^ "^^^^ '*"!- E. of N. "Present name on most maps, probably through the influence of General lii li I f! i ^ SAASHA OR LITTLE WOLF RIVER. 1 163 place commences a range of highlands [i. e., Sheridan Butte"] These highlands have no timber, and are composed of earth of different colors, without much rock, but suppHed through- out with great quantities of coal or carbonated wood After passing these hills the country again opens into extensive plains, Ike those passed yesterday; the river is diversified with islands, and partially suppHed with water by a great number of wide but nearly dry brooks. Thus, 1 8 miles below camp is a shallow, muddy stream " on the left, 100 yards wide supposed to be that known among the Indians by the name of Saasha, or Little-wolf river; five miles below, on the right side, is another river,"" 40 yards wide and 4 feet in I'onh ^!rT' "■ ^" '^■' 'i'''°,"°' ""^^ ''"''" ''^^' ^^'''' ^"'i Clark's work was worth, but a so appreciated what he owed to them, when he came to make that g .at map wh.ch, after Clark's, ^ecame the secure foundation of our presen geographical knowledge of the vhole country he charted ' point, Clark M 114. 1 h>s .s Sheridan Butte, opposite which is Stanley Point The codex next notes " a dry brook on stard. side; " and there is one. whLh falh in by Stanley Pomt. A few miles further Captain Clark comes by site of Terry 39 miles by rail below Miles City. ^' 1 "l^%''HT^'^^■ '''^'°" '^' ^'''^- ^''^^- sh^illowand the water muddy low bluffs Shabono R.," Clark M 114 ; " Shabonos R.," Clark N 132 • t wl nver I take to be the one the Minitarrees Call little wolf or Sa-a-shah kiver " ''TJ "^. .'"■'' "'''''' ''• ^'•' ^'^'"■^=" ^'^ "War-har-sa R." and his Uahtaroup R., but unluckily his draughtsman or engraver lettered it " York's be7on!"' i"^'^''!'^ °/ P""'"S these words on the next stream above, where they b long. This ,s the secret of Warren's affixing " York's R." to a wrong stream Tlie name of •'Shabono has never appeared in connection with this river and fervidly. 1 h,s loo-yard stream on the left, thus provided with four names already was later called Maynadier's creek, which became " Mayradiers Cr '■ Fallon ro," ""'Tr''"- !' ^'"' '" ''""' ^'^^^'y ^^'^^^^^ ^erry aiid Lte"o-,,j^,'""' '"P'"^"°" '^^^^ °^ " I-">^ Wolf" river cf p. 1x57: see '« " This stream I call Oak-tarpon-er or Coal River,"' Clark M m • "Oak tar-pon-er or Stone Coal River," Clark N 132 ; " Oahtaroup Cr.," Cla;k's map! Th. ,s now O Fallon's or Fallon's creek ; quite a large stream, falling in by to.' o station of same name, ten miles by rail below Terry. Before Gibson's river o he text IS reached, we have in the codex: i. " A brook below the Lard. > nt' whh a' 1; '""V ?f " "-*' '• '••• ■^'^^^P^^'^-^ ^-^^"ff^ -^' J--y Side'-r l,\r Z '" ^^f'J-'t'--- 2. "Passed a brook on Stard i^Klt. Clark M 114. There is one just above Bears or Barns (Burns') Bluffs. t n k Bk^ , . it] vH '(^ vl.tu li 1 IK H-^ ^ ■ % '-'^ ! Itf I'f ■iil 1 164 COAL RIVER— GIBSON'S RIVER. li!:-. r ' t\ :s /il depth, Which from the steep coal-banks on each side they called Oaktaroup. or Coal river; and 18 miles further is a of^Gib w" » "^ ^' t' "''^'' '' '''''''' '""^y S-^ the name of G bson s nver. Having made 66 miles, they halted whit H "^1 " ^"'' "' '^'y ^"^^^^^' '^'y ^^- the largest wh.te bear that any of the party had ever before seen, devouring a dead buffalo on a sand-bar. They fired two balls mo him ; he then swam to the mainland and walked along the shore. Captain Clark pursued him and lodged wo more balls in his body ; but though he bled profusely he made his escape, as night prevented them from follow- ing him. Sundaj., August is^' A high wind from ahead made the 3. ''Abrookin the Lard, bend," Clark Mirs. This is Bad Route creek oddo sue the bluffs said, and near De Russy's rapids ' ^^ thrrShT'"t "T"" °^ ''''""^' "°" "^"''"y '^'^"^d Cabin creek, falling in on the right a short distance above town of Milton, and about the same cHs ance f Jr^ nTcirki^ir"'"^'^ ' '' ''''''''''' "'-' '''''-' ' '' -'-'-' - JO But not before passing four more streams, duly noted in Clark 115 i A creek g.ven as four m. below Gibson's riv.r, on the left. This is Clea'r creek Ihng ,„ by the Monroe rapids, nearly opposite Milton. 2. A creek on ,- nglt, next below Milton. 3. A creek on the right below a bluff Th' Cedar creek, below Cedar Bluffs. It is called Catfi h c eT „ ClL N 3^ here tabulated as " eight " miles below Gibson's river (/. ... Cabin creeia '4' The entrance of a brook on the Lard S.M^ v . '' "*' 31 TJ, . ! / , ■ • • '""■"' ^"^^y ^'■°'" tlie Yellowstone. Chrk V IT, I '"■ ^^ '" ''"■''"• '"'^ '""^^ ^' supplemented by the codex Clark M ri6 first notes: "a larpe brook in o Ht^.A tj j • ^""e''- of an island. Pine brook " Thfs Pinrh \ , , °^^°"''^ '° '^' ^''"^ as " 18 •• „,iL K I nu . ™°^ '' ^''° tabulated in Clark N 132 •IS 18 m, es below Gibson's river. Whence it is clear that " Gibson's R "i. A T \. ^ '°°^ °" ""-■ '^^' (^'"'^f^ is one of those fallinrr in bv Glendive Butte), and then one on the right ; beyon.I which he e te o's trel' o the place where the herd of buffalo obstructed the river. Here he saTs M XX6 . I was obhged to land to let the Buffalow cross over. notwithstanZg a^ I l< .t \i BUFFALO-CROSSING CREEK. 1 165 water rough and retarded their progress ; and as it rained during the whole day, their situation in the open boats was very disagreeable. The country bears in every respect the same appearance as that of yesterday, though there is some ash timber in the bottom, and low pine and cedar on the sides of the hills. The current of the river is less rapid, has more soft mud, and is more obstructed by sand-bars ; and the rains have given an unusual quantity of water to the O*- J9S) brooks. The buffalo now appear in vast numbers. A herd happened to be on their way across the river. Such was the multitude of these animals that, though the river, including an island over which they passed, was a mile wide, the herd stretched, as thickly as they could swim, from one side to the other, and the party was obliged to stop for an hour. They consoled themselves for the delay by killing four of the herd ; and then [having] proceeded for the dis- tance of 45 miles [in all to-day] to an island, below which two other herds of buffalo, as numerous as the first, soon after crossed the river [they camped on the right, at the entrance of a small brook]. August 2d. The river is now about a mile wide, less rapid and more divided by islands and bars of sand and mud than hitherto ; the low grounds too are more extensive, and con- tain a greater quantity of cottonwood, ash, and willow trees. On the northwest is a low, level plain ; on the southeast are island of Iia/f a mile in width over which this gangiie of Buffalow had to pass," etc. Then M 117 has " a wood in a Stanl. Bend, psd. [passed] Buffalow Cross- ing C[reek]." This creek is tabulated in Clark N 132 as on the left, " 29 " m. below Pine brook (Glendive creek). Clark also charts it, but without name": see his map, first creek on the left above " Samuel R." All points being duly con-^ sidered, we may pretty safely identify Buffalo-crossing creek with that one now known as Thirteen-mile creek, on the left, falling in by the very large island called Joe's, where also the present Box-elder creek falls in on the right"! Clark then passes "a dry creek on the Lard, side," and finally camps " at the enterance of a small brook on the Stard. Side," after a total of " 45 " miles to-day. This camp is probably not determinable with precision from any data we possess con- cerning the numerous islands and small streams in the vicinity. I suppose it to be near Burns' creek ; and this creek maybe the never-identified " Samuel R." of Clark's map : see next note. n (Ki! , m .■rill Ti, fi ill'; , M ' •' i i a ii 1 \ tif-^. 1166 SAMUEL'S RIVER— IBEX RIVER. 1! , t ' ':/ > < 'f i~. I some ruped hills, on which they saw, without being able to approach, some bighorns. The buffalo and elk, as wdl as the s'ide r^h '^' '"^ "^^^"' ^'^ •" ^'^^' --^-- On :4h side of the nver are several dry brooks ; but the only stream of any sue .s that they called Ibex" river, on tlfe right about 30 yards wide, and 16 miles from camp. The bears' ^Wnch gave so much trouble on the head of the Missouri, are equally fierce m this quarter. This morning one of them on his hind feet ; and after looking at the party, plunged in "thrbTd 'T1. '""• ""' '''' -ceived'wit"; Lree'ban: m the body; he then turned round and made for the shore Captain Clark ordered the boat toward the shore, and just as the bear landed, shot the animal in the head, it proved to be the largest female they had ever seen, so old th.t its diffi'T'l?''" ^"''' '"^""'^^' ^^' ^^^'^ ^^^^P<^d with diffi.ty between two herds of buffalo which were cross- ing the river, and would probably have again detained the party. Among the elk of {/>.jg6) this neighborhood are an unusual number of males, while h.yher up the river the numerous herds consist of females chiefly. After making ellt^Z te? Ti' I'""''" """ *° ^""""^ for-certainly an excessive na elv Th J , [^ ''"' °"' P°'"' ^^ ''^^'^' ^° '^'^'^ ^'"^ long vova.e cnnely Ibex nver, wh.cl. is given as " 16 " miles from last nighfs camp S Ue__ codex and map afford two points, namely, '■.Samuel r'" and " Ar, Cr (Ibex of the text). Clark M 119 for Aug. 2d begins • " N £oi F tn I n S i» " ': :»' "rn ' ■ "'r "" """'"- "■" ^ '"*»"•■'• -« ™^ "" « rieicib creek, l-or the latter, see note ■»', p. 2S4, I-' M FIELDS' CREEK— MOUTH OF THE YELLOWSTONE. I167 84 miles, they camped among some ash and elm trees on the right [two miles above the mouth of J. Fields' creek]. They, however, rather passed the night than slept there, for the mosquitoes were so troublesome that scarcely any of the party could close their eyes during the greater part of the time. They therefore set out early in the morning, August id, to avoid the persecution of those insects. At the distance of two miles they passed Fields' creek, a stream 35 yards wide, which enters on the right, immediately above a high bluff which is rapidly sinking into the river. Here Captain Clark went ashore in pursuit of some bighorns, but the mosquitoes were so numerous that he was unable to shoot with certainty. He therefore returned to the canoes ; and soon after, observing a ram of the same animals, sent one of the hunters, who shot it ; it was preserved entire as a specimen. About two o'clock they reached, eight miles below Fields' creek, the junction of the Yellowstone with the Missouri, and formed a camp on the point where they had camped on the 26th of April, 1805." The canoes were unloaded, and the baggage was exposed to dry, as many of the articles were wet and some of them spoiled. The Rochejaune'^ or Yellowstone river, according to Indian information, has its remote sources in the Rocky mountains, near the peaks of the Rio del Norde, on the con- fines of New M xico, to which country there is a good road during the whole distance along the 'banks of the Yellow- stone. Its western waters are probably connected with thobe of Lewis' [main Snake] river, while its eastern branches approach the heads of Clark's river, the Bighorn, and the [North fork of the] Platte ; so that it waters the middle por- tion of the Rocky mountains for several hundred miles, from "See note", p. 283. Clark M I2i checks the crew with which he descended in his two dug-outs lashed together from the point where Sergeant Tryor's party left him: "I had the following persons. John Shields, George Gibson, William Rratten. W. Labeech, Toust. Shabono his wife & chikl and my man York." »*The rest of the entry under Aug. 3d, describing the Yellowstone, etc., is in Lewis' hand in Clark M 122-124 ; the MS. resumes with Aug. 4th in Clark's hand. ; If K-\ ■II ^,i h ]!'■ ' i, ,!• .,i 1" ! ' I,* > J\ i ■■ ' V ^'■' 1 '!> if J i, I * I i% fl"l u U k I I ' I I /(I 111 ■ i If iill ! t • 111 ■ f' '■ ■ i|W u l,i ; I'll'' ^ "68 THE ROCHEJAUNE OR YELLOWSTONE Powder, RrsebTdl and T ^^ "' ^^^'^'' ^""'^ ^^"^ ^^^^ decreasing nTlortron fits7'^''^""'' ^'™°=' '''-"y estimated at 4-4 ,„iles per hou. ^ ?"''''''"' "'='>' >"= horn, at 3^ mH s^t re^tZ; aX.f 'T " "■= '^'S" and from that river to VVoh" r p d a' 2V ^ '/' ^ ""''" ' to its entrance [into the M ssouril'th^ ^des; from which two miles per hour ^h, ■'' ^'^""^' "P""*y ''^ country presen tnerrlvlmir'"'"™" """ '^"''"" "< ""= land. Above ClarkW„rr ™™"" °' '"'"'"'• ""'• "P'^" plains. '^'' '°""'^>' ^P'-^^d^ into extensive Like all the branches of the Missouri which penetrate th. Kocky mountaine hand a. hcLT asleep, and made an attempt to seize Windsor, when Shan "°" '^''""'"'='' ' ="HH him. They passed o^er a broken open coun„y, ,,„,! i, ,w„g reached the Yellowstone near Pompeys pdlar. determined to descend the river for hU pnrpose they made two skin canoes," su, 1, as they had seen among the Mandans and k.earas. These are made „ he following manner: two sticks of an inch and a ql r in bottom of the boat, is made in the same way ■'^bo, , a e secured by sticks of the same size from the sides „ the :^nt^:rrr:s^;-?^-r~? : th°th~ds -b"' ""^"^ °' "'^^'"»" ='•" - '■'■"«*'" witn he,rlo.ids. Bemg unacquainted with the river thev thought ,t most (;.. #0/) prudent to divide their Z IZ ammun,„on, so that in case of accident all migh Lf be l«t embarked, and were surprised at the perfect security in wh.ch they passed through the most difficult shoa an In passing the confluence of the Yellowstone and Mis sour, he [Sergeant Pryor] took down the note [which Cap an, Clark had posted] from the pole, supposing! hat Capta,^ Lew,s had passed, and thus learning where^helCpS: them. The day was spent in hunting, to procure a nu,^lr iitij I' ' I !• . ■• f' M it the CAPTAIN CLARK MFKTS DICKSON AND HANCOCK. II73 of skins to trade with the Mandans ; for having now neither horses nor merchandise, our only resource, in order to obtain corn and beans, is a stock of skins, which those Indians very much admire. ^7/i,w/ (J///. A heavy dew fell this morning. Captain Clark proceeded slowly down the river, hunting through the low grounds in the neighborhood after the deer and elk, till late in the afternoon he camped on the southeast side. Here they remained during the next da>-, Ai/^usi \otli, attempting to dry the meat, while the hunters were all abroad; but they could obtain nothing except an antelope and one black-tailed deer ; these animals being very scarce on this part of the river. In the low grounds of the river Captain Clark found to-day a species of cherry .vhich he had never seen before, and which seems peculiar to this small district of country, though even here it is not very abundant. The men also dug up'quantitics of a large and very insipid root, called by the Indians hankee, and by the engagecs, white-apple [pornme blanche, Psoralca escnlnita\ It is used by them in a dry and pounded state, to mix with their soup; but our men boiled it and ate it with meat. In descending the river yesterday the squaw brought in a large well-flavored gooseberry, of a rich crim- son coloi and a deep purple berry of (/. 402) a species of currant common on the river as low as the Mandans, and called by the engagecs I"'.iian currant. August I Uh. Captain Clark set o l early, and landed on a sand-bar about ten o'clock for the p. pose of taking break- fast and drying the meat. At noon they proceeded about two miles, when they observed a canoe near the shore. They immediately landed, and were equally surprised and pleas 1 at discovering two men by the names of Dickson and Hancock "who had come from the Illinois on a hunting " This meeting was of course prior in time t. , that noted on p. 1 1 16, thougi . long subsequent in the narrative. These were the first white men any meml,crs of the Expedition had seen, except themselves, since they parted with the three French trappers at Goose creek, near the Little Missouri, April 13th, 1805 : see A 4.1 1 I >'■ ii b» wound-Points passec to I kZ cud-Cheyenn. and leton rivers-LoisePs fort on Cedar island- lyler's rive -Ti« a k"n r, T\''ZT;.''^'''"' "-^-^'""""''^ of buflalo-Indian alarj^-" he; w^ • Hlack Duflalo'. band of Tetons. who had been unruly in ,804-Over.ures declined ' -TTHURSDAY, August 12th, ,8c6. The party continued ^ slowly to descend the river. One of the skin canoes was by accident pierced with a small hole ; they halted for the purpose of mending it with a piece of elk-skin, and also to wait for two of the party who were behind. While there they were overjoyed at seeing Captain Lewis' boats heave in sight about noon.' But this feeling was changed into alarm on seemg the boats reach the shore without Captain Lewis, who they then learned had been wounded the day before, and (/. ^07) was lying in the periogue. After giving 'The place where ..11 the members of the Expedition were thus happily re- umted .s left a httle lu.y here and on p. 11,7. but may be fixed pLLly by Clark M 135, th.s d..te : " I'roceeded on myself with the two wood and one skm canoe to a large bottom on the N.E. side above the head of Jins [red inked Qu : an ] island and landed t„ take bre.akfastas well as to delay nntill Shannon and Gibson should arive." These two men had been sent back to the last camp to recover a lost tomahawk, with which they returned at 2 p m This '• Tins" IS clearly written, but Captain Clark seems to have forgotten himself what name he meant, and so queries " ..n " islan- »«ll. has a wife and «iii rL™ ;i ::,,.' a Lrro,"; c? ," r '?"""■ - '■'• "■""* "= »„..> „h.rve a„ ,„„oh ^Z^l^^'TZ^Z^'i^fT '" T ! scorn as " that old sneaking chJli, t "'^ '"'"' '"'" "'''^^ f^"*^ «pica„i. .ha„ .hi :ri^* r:2.^~-;';- *-." ^™„„ .,.. can be identified by notes p 227 ^^l^- P- 156. Jussome's squar" 'Otherwise Poscopsahe : see pp! X82. XS3. 331. etc. The Henry MS.. W.. BLACK cat's honest OPINIONS, 1 179 declared that he wished to visit the United States, and see his Great Father ; but he was afraid of the Sioux, who had killed several of fhe Mandans since our departure, and who were now on the river below, and would intercept him if he attempted to go. Captain Clark endeavored to quiet his apprehensions by assuring him that he would not suffer the Sioux to injure one of our red children who should accom- pany us; they should return loaded with presents, and be protected at the expense of the United States. The council was then broken up ; after which we crossed and formed our camp on the other side of the river, where we should be sheltered from the rain. Soon afterward the chief of the Mahahas informed us that, if we would send to his village, we should have some corn. Three men were therefore dispatched, and soon returned loaded with as much as they could carry ; they were followed by the chief and his wife, to whom we presented a few needles and (/. 406) other articles fit for women. In a short time Le Borgne, the great chi ■!" . all the Min- netarees, came down, attended by scv ; .her chiefs ; to whom, after smoking a pipe. Captain Clark made a harangue, renewing his assurances of friendship and the invitation to go with us to Washington. He was answered by Le calls Black Cat by his French name, Chat Noir, and praises him highly for hospitality, etc., agreeing with our authors in estimating his good qualities. " About this time B'« La France made his appearance. This man had left the Riviere La Souris in May last [r8o6], equipped by the IL 13. Co. with a small assortment for the purpose of trading. I le now resided on the south side of tiie river at the great Mandane village, and hearing of the arrival of the white people he came over to us. Me now informed the Hlack Cat, the chief, our kind host, who his guests were, and the cause of our visit, which was mere curiosity ; he instantly retired to his family hut, brought out his fla<; and in a short time it was flying over the hut in which we were accommodated. This flag was given him by Captains Lewis and Clarke in 1804-5, they also gave him a silver medal and the same articles were also given to the principal chief of each of the other villages, also several very useful utensils were left among them. I saw tiie remains of an excellent large corn i.iill, which the foolish fellows had demolished on purpose to barb their arrows," Henry MS., pp. 51, 52, July 20th, 1806. For La France iiere in mention, see note ", p. 203, and iiuie ^s' p. 213. ii8o ONE-EYE'S ART OF POLITE LYING. f i Borgne, who began by declaring that he much desired to ml\TT m'*7' "".""' *= s'™" --'=' «^'»'" y the rfver Th ""I T"" ^''°"''' ""^P' '° g° down we nver. Tl ey were bad people, and would not listen to h d maT;- '^'"" 'r "" "^ '''»'' - ■'-d 'oW him th we had made peace w.th ah the nations below; yet the Sioux me r horses. The R.caras too had stolen their horse, and Yet : lite":,' th'^ "7""' '-' ''"'" '"° °' *^ R'"- vet ,n sp,te of these dispositions he had always had his ears op,=„ o our counsels, and had actually ^ade'^a peac " th Me included by say.ng, that howev^- disposed they were to v,s,t the Un,ted States, the fear of the Sioux woufd pr" finished " ^°'"^ "'"■ "'■' ^' """-' -- then Soon afterward an invitation was received from Black Cat ",th a dozen bushels of corn, which he said was a large pro port,on of w at his people owned. After s,nokingf p^^ he dec ared that h,s people were too apprehensive of the S oux to venture with us. Captain Clark then spoke to he ch.efs and warr.ors of the village. He told them o^ hi! anx,ety that some of them should see their Great Fathe themtrr ^™^<'^' -''/-«- Ws gifts; and requtt d them to fi.x on some confidential chief who migl t accom pany us. To this they made the same objections°aI beforT: of l.oY„ "::t4h- "tfii'w^^-''' :'" '''"' '" "■" '" '"*■« "-«»■■ combe." .See nri" ;r T, Tf' 7"""= '''""■'" ''^ '»"''"" " '<>' I'"- consMer., J. One eye , i7„! ,^ '"' <="!"'■ "" "' '"""' ""'' "")■ qualities .-hid. JJk'ZZV.r^'' 1 ' "' '= '"" "'■" "f"'"""" »he„ „, .e,io„ ,,et„ e ,v et „ ™ M* T, "'"'^r" '•"""■ ""' "" which would be middling good Greek twL?p " "'"' ""^^ Kakoakis- AN OBJECTIONABLE WASHINGTON VOLUNTEER. II8I till at length a young man offered to go, and the warriors all assented to it. But the character of this man was known to be bad ; and one of the party with Captain Clark informed him that at the moment he [this Indian] had in his posses- sion a knife which he had stolen. Captain {p. 407) Clark therefore told the chief of this theft, and ordered the knife to be given up. This was done with a poor apology lor having it in his possession, and Captain Clark then re- proached the chiefs for wishing to send such a fellow to see and hear so distinguished a person as their Great Father. They all hung down their heads for some time, till Black Cat apologized by saying that the danger was such that they were afraid of sending any one of their chiefs, as they con- sidered his loss almost inevitable. Captain Clark remained some time with them, smoking and relating various particulars of his journey; and then left them to visit the second chief of the Mandans, Black Crow," who had expressed some disposition to accompany us. He seemed well inclined to the journey, but was unwill- ing to decide till he had called a council of his people, which he intended to do in the afternoon. On returning to camp, Captain Clark found the ch'>f of the Mahahas, and also the chief of the Little Minnetaree village. They brought a pres- ent of corn on their mules, of which they possess several, and which they procure from the Crow Indians, who either buy or steal them on the frontiers of the Spanish settle- ments. A great number of Indians visited us for the purpose of renewing their acquaintance, or of exchanging robes or other articles for the skins brought by our men. In the evening we were applied to by one of our men. Colter, who was desirous of joining the two trappers who had accompanied us, and who now proposed an expedition up the river, in which they were to find traps and give him a share of the profits. The ofTer w ld, T,,i H fT'^ '"^^^ fascinating man- manyyearsfrom he tol?™ ^' ^""' "o" ^b'^'-"'" for sumii to hav°" m "nit' ' ' '^' """""^ ^= P^" .>;n> to his fHend?;n:imrr;T;:rrui'^at"thr:' '° ^'- w..no. the ,eSt f ":: t't' i^ifjrorreifds"" who™ the^y at:cS:„r:s,r4;t fr™^- mentthey lost two men on^ ^f '^"0"gft m the engage- chief of the Little m7„ ^ta re i^T T„ "^ =°" °' "- Ilad gone against the Ricaras tvln „f , ^""'her war-party misunderstanding too had tTkl-n „. I "" *'^ ""'=^- ^ and IVIinnetarees in consen, I "^ .' *'"=" "'"^ "^'^^ans which nearly occXrd'a'warTu \ 'l^ t?'™' ' ^°"'"' ,.,/■"' "^"'- The Mandans had offered to give us sol Uncertain whether this "next ,ln„" • a ^ "^^ the text l.cks Aug. igth, the e t of two f ' 'f "' ''''• ^''^^^^ ''-» given under one date. Codices M^.d N T ^^^ '-*'' '"^"^ '5th, being tain unlucky inadvertencesTf he e trie^ 1 ""^ ''"^ ''=^>'-^- "'''h cer- tl- two dates in question. I t Link I'T'or, '"'' '' ""'^"^^'"^'^ "°- '° -'j-t -..y of the X5th. John Colte; L ; j; ",r '" '''■'-'' ^' °^ ^'- Mth is -Here he was met by the overland Astor ns He L ' T "^^ '^'^^""^' ^vaters of the Missouri to St Louis in rT , ""'"" ^'""^ '"^^ "PP^r Indians, who had conceived an ,"acab;%'"; TJ^'""' ^^"'"'^-^ °'!^- Lewis- affair on Maria's river slpf,, '' "' "^^ "'^''^^ ^'■-" ^^^Ptau. li THE SWIVEL ALSO DISCHARGED. II83 corn, and on sending this morning we found a greater quan- tity collected for our use than all our canoes would contain. We therefore thanked the chief and took only six loads. At ten o'clock the chiefs of the different villages came down to smoke with us. We took this opportunity of en- deavoring to engage Le Borgne in our interests by a present of the swivel, which is no longer serviceable, as it cannot be discharged from our largest periogue. It was loaded ; and the chiefs being formed into a circle round it, Captain Clark addressed them with great ceremony. He said that he had listened with much attention to what had {p. 40Q) yesterday been declared by Le Borgne, whom he believed to be sincere, and then reproached them with their disregard of our counsels, and their wars on the Shoshonees and Ricaras. Little Cherry, the old Minnetaree chief, answered that they had long stayed at home and listened to our ad- vice, but at last went to war against the Sioux because their horses had been stolen and their companions killed ; and that in an expedition against those people they met the Ricaras, who were on their way to strike them, and a bat- tle ensued. But in future he said they would attend to our words and live at peace. Le Borgne added that his ears would always be open to the words of his Good Father, and shut against bad counsel. Captain Clark then presented to Le Borgne the swivel, which he told him had announced the words of his Great Father to all the nations we had seen, and which, whenever it was fired, should recall those which we had delivered to him. The gun was discharged, and Le Borgne had it conveyed in great pomp to his village. The council then adjourned. In the afternoon Captain Clark walked up to the village of Little Crow, taking a flag which he intended to present to him ; but was surprised on being told by him that he had given over all intention of accompanying us, and refused the ftag. He found that this was occasioned by jealousy between " See- pp. 182, 192. et "On our going clown to the water side we found the Chief of the Great Mandane Village, Le Gros Blanc. (It was this man who yii W •:« li i m< m f ir ^ i U- f ! : 1 1 84 THE DEBT TO SACAJAWEA NOT DISCHARGED. him and the principal chief, [Shahaka" or] Big White- on the interference, however, of Jesseaume,- the two chiefs were reconciled, and it was agreed that Big White himself should accompany us with his wife and son Aujrust lyth. The principal chiefs of the Minnetarees came down to bid us farewell, as none of them could be prevailed on to go with us. This circumstance induced our interpreter, Chaboneau, with his wife and child to remam here, as he could be no longer useful. Notwith- standing our offers of taking him with us to the United States, he said that he had there no acquaintance and no chance of making a livelihood ; and that he preferred remaining among the In (/. ^10) dians. This man has been 7ZTr^^: T "' '"' '" ''''' "^^ particularly useful among the Shoshonees. Indeed, she has borne with a patience truly admirable the fatigues of so long a route encumbered with the charge of an infant, who is even no^ only 19 months old. We therefore paid Chaboneau his wages, amounting to $500.33, including the price of a horse accompanied Messrs. Lewis & Clark the ensuing autumn down to Washington ) Indian, Mr C. s brother-in-law and Mr. Allen McDonnell took up their loddn^ SfelL-4S.Teri;oteT.'';':8?r, ^3^^'^^^^^^ ? n^etobeaver^ boillcz The "M..T " ; ^' ^' '^ • P- "''' ^"^ ^^'^ "^me Cha- .J ' „. r ^^^"^^'^^" ''^^^^ "oted is the M'Cracken of p. 187 on. Jl' T^ 7 ^^'- ■^'''°"""' '"^ '"''• '^^ ''^ "^^ '"« i"fl"ence to prevail on Terp ;rl H 1° accompany us and we would employ him Qessaum a an interpreter]. He informed us soon after that the bid [Big] White chief would go ,f we would take his wife & son & Jessoms wife & 2 childrfi we Jer ob ieed o agree o do [.t], '• Clark N 89. Considering the relative size of the two famil es the Frenchman seemed to have argued the case with Shahaka to his own ad ag earn. / ' "" °"""^' '' '''''''''' '" '«°^- "^•^' Chaboneau's wife had earned /... wages too. What Chaboneau's services were, except on some rare tr:red: r Th^'^ 'rTr " '"'^' ^'^^^ -^^ ^p--- '■' '- ^~ H^wnf ^^'i . •" "'^ '■"""""^ "'"°"g ">^ Indians for many years He was found by Maximilian in ,832-34 ; and he " candidly confessed " o the Prince of Wied that after a residence of 37 years among the Minneta res " h •' OM Cr^ " '° '"°r"""^ '''^'^ '""'S^^S^ ^°--''y •• (Matthews p 8 Old Charbonneau," as Dr. Matthews styles him. must therefore have been . V «» BIG WHITE TO GO TO WASHINGTON. I185 and a lod^e purchased of him ; and soon afterward dropped down to the village of Big White, attended on shore by all the Indian chiefs, who went to uike leave of him. We found Hig White surrounded by his friends, who sat in a circle smoking, while the women were crying. He immediately sent his wife and son, with their baggage, on, board, accompanied by the interpreter and his wife and two children; and then, after distributing among his friends some powder and ball which we had given him, and smok- ing a pipe with us, he went with us to the river-side. The whole village crowded about us, and many of the people wept aloud at the departure of the chief. As Captain Clark was shaking hands with the principal chiefs of all the vil- lages, they requested that he would sit wiJi them one moment longer. Being willing to gratify them, he stopped and ordered a pipe ; after smoking which they informed him that when they first saw us they did not believe all that we then told them ; but having now seen that our words were all true, they would carefully remember them and follow our fool as well as the coward and wife-beater that we know he was (pp. 270, 310, 3(>5, 442, 497, etc.). But his linguistic accomplishments were equal to abuse of Sacajawea in more than one dialect, and interpreters received good pay in those days. I have examined the autograph notifications of drafts made by Captain Lew^ m favor of most of the members of the Expedition, and the pay of the privates and non-commissioned officers was certainly very small in comparison It may be mteresting to give a specimen of these, copied from the original on file m the War Department. Out of twenty-eight examined, of most of which I hold copies, I select the following ; g,^. Louisvu.LE, November 9th, 1806. My bill of exchange No. 115 of this date in favor of Capt. William Clark for the suim of four hundred dollars is in part of monies due him for his ser- vices while on the late expedition to the Pacific Ocean, and which when j.aid will be charged to me on the faith of my final settlement with the United States relative to the said Expedition. I have the honor to be with due consideration, Your obt. Servt. [signed] Meriwether Lewis, Capt. r, , TT "^^^ U. S. Regt. Infty. Genl. Henry Dearborn, Secretary at War. a' ml u h.^,,) the hand; that we would appnse the Ricaras of their friendly intentions, and hat, though we had not seen those of the Sioux with whom tliey vvere at war, we should relate their conduct to their Great Pather, who would take measures for a general peace among al h.s red children. Le Borgne now requested'tha we would ake good care of this chief, who would report whatever the.r Great Father should say; and the council bemg then broken up. we took leave with a salute from a gun, and proceeded. On reaching Fort Mandan, we found a few pickets stand- ing on the nver-side. but all the houses, except one. had been burnt by an accidental fire. At the distance c;f 18 mdes we reached the old Ricara village, where we camped on the southwest side, the wind being too violent and the waves too h.gh to permit us to go any further. The same nextT'''^'"*^'^ "' ^''°'" '^"'"^ """' ^'^°''^ ""'^^'^ °'''°^^' the A^r.^us^ im. Soon after we embarked, an Indian c. me running down to the beach, who appeared very anxious to speak to us. We went ashore, and found it was the brother of B.g Wh.te. who was camped at no great distance, and hearing of our departure came to take leave of the chief Big White gave him a pair of leggings, and they separated n a most affectionate manner. We then continued, though the wind and waves wen still high. The Indian chief seemed quite satisfied with his treatment, and during the ■«■■» wh HEART, CANNON-HAr.L, AND WARDEI'ON RIVEl Ic of his time was employed 1187 . . pointing out the ancient monuments of th.' Mandans, or in relatin^^ their traditions At length, after making 40 miles, we camped ,>n the north- east side, opposite an . !d Mandan village, below the mouth of Chesshetali August U)th. . he wind was so violent that wc were not able to proceed untu four in the afternoon, during which time ^1 ; hunters killed four elk and twelve deer. We then went ,1 for ten miles, and came-to on a sand-bar. The rain (/-. ^/-')and wind continued through the night, and during the whole of the next day, /nigust 20th, the waves were so high that one man was constantly occupi ! in bailing the boats. We passed at noon Cannon-bah .uer; at three in the afternoon, the entrance of Wardepon " river, the boundary of the country claimed by the Sioux; and after coming 81 miles passed the night on a sand-bar. The plains are beginning to change their appearance, the grass becoming of a yellow color We have seen great numbers of wolves to-day, and some buffalo and elk, though these are by no means so abundant as on the Yellowstone. Since we passed in 1804, a very obvious change has taken place in the current and appearance of the Missouri. In places where at that time there were sand-bars, the current of the river now passes, and the former channel of the river is in turn a bank of sand. Sand-bars then naked are now covered with willows several feet high ; the entrance of some of the rrreks and rivers has changed in consequence of the quantity of mud thrown into them ; and in some of the bottoms are layers of mud eight inches in depth. August 2\st. We rose after a night of broken rest, owing to the mosquitoes ; and having put our arms in order, to be prepared for an attack, continued our course. We soon met three traders, two " of whom had wintered with us among the 1^ "Chis-che-tor River," Clark N 13 ; now Heart river: see note", p. 174. ^■^ " Warreconne" creek of p. 170, which see, and note there. " The names of both are given in two places, Clark N 17, but are uncertain. I' IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // A^ ^%'4^^ t 1.0 [Si^ I.I 1.25 2.5 2.2 2.0 1.8 U ill 1.6 6" Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 87^-4a03 't ^ <^ kp «c? 7v ^ ;^."Q > 1, i lit 1 1 88 AMONG ARIKARAS AND CHEYENNES. Mandans in 1804, and were now on their way there They had exhausted all their powder and lead; we therefore sup- plied them with both. They informed us that 700 Sioux had passed the Ricara towns on their way to make war agamst the Mandans and Minnetarees, leaving their women and children camped near the Big Bend of the Missouri, and that the R.caras all remained at home, without taking any part m the war. They also told us that the Pawnee or Ricara chief, who went to the United States in the spring of 1805, died on his return near Sioux river. (/. 4.13) We then left them, and soon afterward arrived opposite the upper Ricara villages. We saluted them with the discharge of four guns, which they answered in the same manner; on our landing we were met by the greater part of the inhabitants of each village, and also by a band of Chayennes who were camped on a hill in the neighbor- As soon as Captain Clark stepped on shore he was greeted by the two chiefs to whom we had given medals on our last visit ; and as they, as well as the rest, appeared much rejoiced at our return and desirous of hearing from the Mandans, he sat down on the bank, while the Ricaras and Chayennes formed a circle round him. After smoking he informed them, as he had already done the Minnetarees of the various tribes we had visited, and of our anxiety to pro- "g et'a't Th!"°H"' "' "' 'r^'""- "^ ''^- expr^essed'hts teneH M 'T^ ""'^'^'^^ ^'^^ M^"^^"^' who had lis- them ,7r """''""\ '"^ ^'^ '^"' °" ^ '^'^^ '- -"oke with them and to assure them that they might now hunt in the plams and visit the Mandan villages in safety, and concluded tZ^'^^^^^^l'? ---p-y^^ to Wash. ington e man whom we had acknowledged as the prin-" ?raii°--' "': 'If ^T"-^ J^--y-is it possibly same as the - Reevey's in t " .. " -r °''" " 'PP*""'''-^ ^^^'"y- '" "- Pl'^ce, clearly Gr e.uvn V n the other. 1 ext omits to note that the othe- one of the three • . '^^"""^"'"^'^y lad requested a passage down to the Illinois. weLnc e^^^ hTl^'T"" canoe to an ore." i. ... took an oar in one of "our canoerClarkN ^ ' \'n rAli' GRAY-EYES IN COUNCIL. II89 was cipal chief when we ascended " now presented another, who he said was a greater chief than himself; to him, therefore he had surrendered the flag and medal with which we had honored him. This chief, who was absent ai: our last visit, is a man of 35 years of age, stout, well-looking, and called by the Indians Gray-eyes. He now made a very animated reply. He declared that the Ricaras were willing to follow the counsels we had given them, but a few of their bad young men would not live in peace, but had joined the Sioux and thus embroiled them with the Mandans. These young men had, however, been driven out of the villages, and as the Ricaras were now separated from the Sioux, who were a bad people and the cause of all their misfortunes, thev now desired to be at peace with the Mandans, and would receive them with (A 414) kindness and friendship. Several of the chiefs, he said, were desirous of visiting their Great Father ; but as'the chief who went to the United States last summer had not returned, and they had some fears for his safety, on account of the Sioux, they did not wish to leave home until they heard of him. With regard to himself, he would continue with his nation, to see that they followed our advice. The sun being now very hot, the chief of the Chayennes mvited us to his lodge, which was at no great distance from the river. We followed him, and found a very large lodge, made of 20 buffalo-skins, surrounded by 18 or 20 lodges' nearly equal in size. The rest of the nation aie expected to-morrow, and will make the number of 130 or 150 lodges, containing from 350 to 400 men, at which the strength'' of the nation may be computed. These Chavennes are fine- looking people, of large stature, with straight limbs, high cheek-bones and noses, and of a complexion similar to that of the Ricaras. Their ears are cut at the lower part, but few wear ornaments in them ; the hair is generally cut over the eyebrows, and small ornaments fall down the cheeks, " For the Ankara villages, and the several chiefs made or recognized in Oct. 1804, see pp. 159-165. ,1 *, I II I HI i I, 1 1 .1. 1 "^^^^1 ■ ■ i 1 ' i ■ ' ii ^■MH ()■ ■? "90 MEDICINAL QUALITIES OF MEDAL3. the remainder being cither twisted with horse or buffalo hZnf %]! r'"""^ shoulder, or else flowing loosely h 7 ^'^'^^•■^t.ons consist chiefly of blue beads shells, red paint, brass rings, bears' claws, and strips of otter^ skins, of which last they, as well as the Ricarfs, are very fond The women are coarse in their features, with wide mouths, and ugly. Their dress consists of a habit falling c the midleg, made of two equal pieces of leather, sewed from the bottom with arm-holes, with a flap hanging nearly halfway down the body, both before and behind. The.e are burnt witn various figures by means of a hot stick, and adorned with beads, shells, and elk's tusks, which all Indians hn ;r' J'^".°t^\^':°'-"^"^^nts are blue beads in the ears; but the hair is plain and flows down the back. The sum mer dress of the men is a simple buffalo-rooe, a cloth round' the waist, moc- (/. ^75) casins, and occasionally leggings Living remote from the whites, they are shy and cauLus.' but are peaceably disposed, and profess to make war against no people except the Sioux, with whom they have been engaged in contests immemorially. In their excursions thev are accompanied by their dogs and horses, which they pos- .T' 'r 17 u """'^''■'' ^^'^ ^°™"'' ^"^^^"g '° "'•'•y almost all rneir light baggage. niedal to the Chayenne chief, and explained at the same time the njeaning of it. He seemed alarmed at this present, and sent tor a robe and a quantity of buffalo-meat, which he gave to Captain Clark, and requested him to take back the medal ; for he knew that all white people were " medicine " and was afraid of the medal, or of anything else which the whue people gave to the Indians. Captain Clark then repeated his intention in giving the medal, which was the medicine his great father had directed him to deliver to all chiefs who listened to his word and followed his counsels • and that as he [the chief] had done so. the medal was given as a proof that we believed him sincere. He now appeared satisfied and received the medal, in return for which he gave (1 BIG WHITE MAKES A GOOD IMPRESSION. 1 191 double the quantity of buffalo-meat he had offered before." He seemed now quite reconciled to the whites, and re- quested that some traders might be sent among the Chay- ennes, who lived, he said, in a country full of beaver, but did not understand well how to catch them, and were discouraged from it by ha ing no sale for them when caught. Captain Clark promised that they should be soon supplied with goods and taught the best mode of catching beaver. Big White, the chief of the Mandans, now addressed them at some length, explaining the pacific intentions of his nation ; the Chayennes observed that both the Ricaras and Mandans seemed to be in fault ; but at the end of the coun- cil the Mandan chief was treated with great civility, and the greatest harmony prevailed among them. The great chief, however, informed us that none of the Ricaras could be pre- {p. 416) vailed on to go with us till the return of the other chief ; and that the Chayennes were a wild people, afraid to go. He invited Captain Clark to his ' vv.:se, and gave him two carrots of tobacco, two beaver-skins, and a trencher of boiled corn and beans. It is the custom of all the nations on the Missouri to offer to every white man food and refresh- ment when he first enteis their tents. '8 Our friend Gass seems to h=£,■*( ,. ,, w ■u f' 1104 LOOKOUT BEND— NO-TIMBER CREEK. a very fine grit, and on being dried in the sun will crumble to pieces. The wind soon after became so high that we were obhged to land for several hours, but proceeded at five o clock. After making 43 miles, we camped '" at the gorge of the Lookout bend of the Missouri. The Sioux have lately passed in this quarter; and there is noiv very little game, and that so wild that we are unable to shoot anythmg. Five of the hunters were therefore sent ahead before daylight next morning, {/>. 413) Au^ist 25///, to hunt on Pawnee island, and we followed them soon after. At eight o'clock we reached the entrance of the Chayenne, where we remained till noon in order to take a meridian observation. At three oclock'wc passed the old Pawnee village near which we had met the letons m 1804, and camped in a large bottom on the north east side, a little below the mouth of No-timber creek [see p 143 J. Just above our camp the Ricaras had formerly a arge village on each side of the river ; there are still seen the remains of five villages on the southwest side below the Chayenne, and one also on Lahoocafs island ; but these have all been destroyed by the Sioux. The weather was clear and calm, but by means of our oars we made 48 miles Uur hunters procured nothing except a few deer The skirt of timber in the bend above the Chayenne is mconsidcrable, scattered from 4 to 16 miles on the south- west side of the river, and the thickest part is from the dis- tance of rom ten to six miles of the Chayenne. A narrow bottom of small Cottonwood trees is also on the northeast point, at the distance of four miles above the river A few large trees and a small undergrowth of willows on the lower side bottom on the Missouri half a mile, and extend a quar- ter of a mile up the Chayenne; there is also a bottom of Cottonwood timber in the part above the Chayenne The go << Encamped on the gouge [gorge] of the lookout bend of 20 miles around and y through, a little above an old tradeing house and 4 mileT abov our outward bound encampment of the ist of October 1804.- Clark N 30 .7- pp. 149 and 151. t. iiv i> JO, 31 . see i ! i " TETON AND TYLOR'S RIVERS-niG LEND. 1195 Chayenne discharijcs but little water at its mouth, which resembles that of the Missouri. [See note ", p. 147 J _ Ai^jT'^sf 26///. After a heavy dew we set out, and at nine o clock reached the entrance of Teton river, below which were a raft and a skin canoe, which induced us to suspect that the Tetons were in the neighborhood. The arms were therefore put in perfect order, and everything was prepared to revenge the slightest insult from those people, to whom It IS necessary to show an example of salutary rigor. We however, went on without seeing any of them, though we were obliged to land near Smoke creek for two hours, to stop (A ^fc^) a leak m the periogue. Here we saw great quanti- ties of plums and grapes, not yet ripe. At f^ve o'clock we passed Louisville's- fort, on Cedar island, twelve miles below which we camped, having been able to row 60 miles with the wind ahead during the greater part of the day. Aujrusf 2ph. Before sunrise we set out with a stiff east- ern breeze in our faces, and at the distance of a few miles landed on a sand-bar near Tylor's [or Tyler's] river and sent out the hunters, as this was the most favorable spot to recruit our stock of meat, now completely exhausted. But after a hunt of three hours they reported that no game was to be found in the bottoms, the grass having been laid flat by the immense number of buffaloes which recently passed over It ; and, that they saw only a few bufifalo bulls, which they did not kill, as they were quite unfit for use. Near this place we observed, however, the first signs of the wild tur- key ; not long afterward we landed in the Big Bend, and killed a fine fat elk, on which we feasted. Toward niglit we heard the bellowing of buffalo bulls on the lower island of the Big Bend. We pursued this agreeable sound, and after killing some of the cows, camped on the island, 45 miles from the camp of last night. ^^ ''Read LoiseVs : see note ", ,, ,26. Gass here prints " Landselle's," p. 266 We proceeded on about 10 miles lower and encampe.l on the S W side oppos.t our outward bound encampment of the 21st. of Sept. 1804. a few miki above Tylors river." Clark N 33, 34- For Smoke creek, see p. 127 ; for Tyler's river, p. 125. ■' '(' m rV til I! rl \ i !■ ;; ;!• i,< 1 196 PLEASANT CAAiP— CORVUS CREEK— WHITE RIVER. Au^us/ 28M. We proceeded at an early hour, having previously dispatched some hunters ahead, with orders to join us at ourold camp [Pleasant camp," Sept. i6t\ 17th, 1804] a httle above Corvus creek, where we intended remainin^r one day, in order to procure the skins and skeletons of some animals, such as the mule-deer, the antelope, the barking- squirrel, and the magpie, which we were desirous of carry- ingto theUiited States, and which we had seen there in great abundance. After rowing 32 miles we landed at twelve o clock, and formed a camp in a high bottom, thinly tim- bered and covered with grass, but not crowded with mosqui- toes. Soon after we arrived the squaws and several of the men went to the bushes near the river, and brought great quantities of large, well-flavored plums of three different species. (/. 420) The hunters returned in the afternoon having been unable to procure any of the game we wished' except the barking-squirrel ; though they killed four common deer, and had seen large herds of buffalo, of which they brought in two. They resumed their hunt in the morning August 2()t/i, and the rest of the party were employed in dressing skins, except two, who were sent to the village of the barking-squirrels, but could not see one of them out of their holes. At ten o'clock the skins were dressed ; we pro- ceeded, and soon passed the entrance of White river, the water of which is at this time nearly the color of milk. The day was spent in hunting along the river, so that we did not advance more than 20 miles ; " but with all our efforts we were unable to kill either a mule-deer or an antelope though we procured the common deer, a porcupine, and some buffaloes. These last animals are now so numerous that from an eminence we discovered more than we had ever seen before at one time ; and if it be not impossible to '^Otherwise Crow Creek camp; see pp. 118-121, where the name Pleasant camp does not occur. But Gass has it at present date, p. 257 " The place we encamped the i6th. and 17th. of Sept. 1804 and which place the party had called pleasant camp," Clark N 36. To-day's camp is on the same spot .,11°"'!'^''='''!^'^'^ 'f 'y '^^ •'^•'^^- ^'^^ ^""^^ ^«^°^ °"r encampment of 13th Sept. 1804," Clark N 38, 39 : see p. 116. BLACK BUFFALO'S BAND OF TETONS. 1197 calculate the movinpr multitude which darkened the whole plains, we are convinced that 20,000 would be no exa<,'^er- atcd number. With regard to game in general, we observe that the greatest quantities of wild animals are usually found in the country lying between two nations at war. August 30///, We set out at the usual hour, but after going some distance were obliged to stop for two hours, in order to wait for one of the hunters. During this time we made an excursion to a large orchard of delicious plums, where we tvcre so fortunate as to kill two buck elks. We then proceeded down the river, and were about landing at a place where we had agreed to meet all the hunters, when several persons appeared on the high hills to the northeast, whom, by the help of the spy-glass, we distinguished to be Indians. We landed on the southwest side of the river, and immediately after saw, on a height opposite to us, about 20 persons ; one of whom, from his blanket greatcoat and a handkerchief round his head, we supposed to be a {p. 421) Frenchman. At the same time, 80 or 90 more Indians, armed with guns and bows and arrows, came out of a wood some distance below them, and fired a salute, which we returned. From their hostile appearance we were appre- hensive thac they might be Tetons ; but as, from the coun- try through which they were roving, it was possible that they were Yanktons, Pawnees, or Mahas, and therefore less suspicious [to be suspected], we did not know in what way to receive them. In order, however, to ascertain who they were, without risk to the party. Captain Clark crossed, with three persons who could speak different Indian languages, to a sand-bar near the opposite side, in hopes of conversing with them. Eight young men soon met him on the sand-bar, but none of them could understand cither the Pawnee or Maha in- terpreter. They were then addressed in the Sioux language, and answered that they were Tetons, of the band headed by Black Buffaloe, Tahtackasabah. This was the same who had attempted to stop us in 1804; and being now less l{ 1 1 :'i 1 « 'I hi 'I.III I -: ' ^\ h t \ llf:li ,' Cm > • ! / I 198 THESE INDIANS HANDLED WITHOUT GLOVES. anxious about offending so mischievous a tribe, Captain Clark told tiicm tliat they had been deaf to our councils, had ill-treated us two years ago, and had abused all the whites who had since visited thrm. He believed them, he added, to be bad people, and they must therefore return to their companions; for if they crossed over to our camp we would put them to death. They asked for some corn, which Captain Clark refused ; they then requested permission to come and visit our camp, but he ordered them back to their own people. He then returned, and all our arms were pre- pared, in case of an attack; but when the Indians reached their comrades, and informed their chiefs of our intention they all set out on their way to their own camp; though some of them halted on a rising ground and abused us very copiousl); threatening to kill us if we came across. We took no notice of this for some time, till the return of three of our hunters, whom we were afraid the Indians might have met. But as soon as they joined us we embarked ; and to see what the Indians would at- (/). ^^^2) tempt, steered near their side of the river. At this the party on the hill seemed agitated ; some set out for their camp, others walked about and one man walked toward the boats and invited us to land! As he came near, we recognized him to be the same who had accompanied us for two days in 1804, and who was considered a friend of the whites. Unwilling, however, to have any interview with these people, we declined his invi- tation ; upon which he returned to the hill, and struck the earth three times with his gun, a great oath among the Indians, who consider swearing by the earth as one of the most sacred forms of imprecation. At the distance of six miles we stopped " on a bleak sand- bar ; where, however, we thought ourselves safe from attack during the night, and also free from mosquitoes. We had now made only 22 miles ; but in the course of the day had procured a mule-deer, which we much desired. About '* ''In the middle of the river about 2 miles above our encampment on Mud Island on the loth. Sept. 1S04," Clark N 43 : see p. 113. I!. I! _<.A-"' ) CAMl ON NO-PRKSERVES ISLAND. "W eleven in the evening th<' wiiul shifted to the northwest .i.ul It be^an to rain, accompanied with hard chips of thunder and ht,'htnin^r; after which the wind chan^jed t., the south- west and blew with such violence that we were oblitjed to hold the canoes for fear of their bein^j driven from the sand- bar. The cables of two of them broke, and two others were blown quite across the river ; nor was it till two o'clock that the whole party was reassembled, waiting in the rain for daylij^dit. Sumiay, August i\st. We examined our arms and pro- ceeded with the wind in our favor. For some time we saw several Indians on the hills, but soon lost sight of them. In passing the Dome, and the first village of barking-squirrels we stopped and killed two fox.s(iuirrels, an animal which we had not seen on the river higher than this place. At night we camped " on the northeast side, after a journey of 70 miles. We had seen no game, as usual on the river; but m the evening the mosquitoes soon discovcreil us. " " A little below our Encampment of the 5th m Sept. on no preserve Island." Clark N 45. For No-preserves island, see p. no. m I, i ■■ A ?■' 'i ! '■■, -1 CHAPTER XXXVII. THE EXPEDITION RETURNS IN SAFETY TO ST. LOUIS. L'Eauaui Court-Indian aIann-IU.t thev are Yankton^-Iion Ho„.,ne isUnci-Jac,u« river I h . l>c-t.rea Nemaha r.v,T_(iravel,„cs and Unrion n.et-Kansas river-CaDtain S Ch h"^ ;?";' "^'-■:,-'^^»r -er-Cws in evidence of civili«.io„_L; Cl.aret'e- St. Lharies— St. Lui.is, September ajd, iSo6. v..«ci.e ynVONDAY, September ist, 1806. We set out early ^ but were shortly compelled to put to shore for half an hou., till a thick foj,^ disappeared. At nine o'clock we passed the entrance of ti)e Quicurrc [L'Eau qui Court-the Niobrara : see p. 107J, which presents the same appearance as when we ascnded, the water rapid and c[ a milky-white color. Two miles below several Indians ran down to the bank, and beckoned to us to land ; but as they ap,)eared 10 be Tetons, and of a war-party, we paid no attention to them except to inqiure to what tribe they belonged ; as the b.oux mterpreter did not understand much of the langua-e they probably mistook his question. As one of our canoes vvas behmd, we were afraid of an attack on the men, and therefore landed on an open commanding situation, out of the view of the Indians, in order to wait for the men. We had not been in this position fifteen minutes when we heard several gi-ns, which we immediately concluded were fired at thj three hunters ; and being determined to protect them agamst any number of {/>.^s^.) Indians, Captain Clark with fifteen men ran up the river, while Captcin Lewis .>ohb._^d up the bank, and formed the rest of the party in such a manner as would best enable them to protect the boats. On turning a point of the river. Captain Clark was agreeably surprised at seeing the Indians remaining in the place where we left them, and our canoe at the distance of BON HOMME ISLAND— CALUMET BLUFFS. I20I a mile. He went on a sand-bar; and when the Indians crossed, gave them his hand, and was informed that they had bet.Mi amusing themselves with shooting at an old keg, which we had thrown into the river, and was fioating down! We now found them to be pau of a band of 80 lodges of Yanktons'lYonktins, Gass], on Plum creek; we therefore mvited them down to the camp, and after smoking several pipes told them that we had mistaken them for Tetons, and had intended putting every one of them to death, if they had f^red at our canoe; but finding them to be Yanktons, who were good men, we were glad to take them bv the hand as faithful children, who had opened their ears to' our coun- sels. They saluted the Mandan with great cordiality ; one of them declared that their ears had indeed been opened, and that they had followed our advice since we gave a medal to their great chief, and should continue to do so. We tied a piece of ribbon to the hair of each Indian, and gave them some corn. We made a present of a pair of leggings to the principal chief, and then took our leave, being previously overtaken by our canoe. At two o'clock we landed to hunt on Bonhommc island," but obtained a single elk only. The bottom of the north- east side is very rich, and so thickly overgrown with pea-vines and grass, interwoven vv?th grape-vines, that some of the party who attempted to hunt there were obliged to leave it and ascend the plains, where they found the grass nearly as high as their heads. These plains are much richer below than above the Quicurre, and the whole country is now very beautiful. After making 52 miles against a head wind we stopped for the night on a sand-bar opposite Calumet bluff, {p. 425) where we had camped on the 1st of .September, 1804, and where our flag-staff was still standing. We' ' " One of the men with me knew one of the ..idians to he the limther of young Durion's wife," Clark N4r,. I sui.pose tliis vouns '>i'rion to '„■ I'iurre— for whom an. 426) tleman ; when we proposed to him to purchase a small quantity of tobacco, to be paid for in St. Louis he very readily furnished every man of the party with as much as he could use during the rest of the voyage, and insisted on our accepting a barrel of flour. This last we found very agreeable, although we have still a little flour which we had deposited at the mouth of Maria's river. We could give in return only about six bushels of corn, which was all that we could spare. September ^tJu We left Mr. Airs about eight o'clock, and after passing the Big Sioux river stopped at noon near Hoyds bluff. On ascending the hill we found that the grave of Floyd had been opened [by the Indians], and was now half uncovered. We filled it up, and then continued down to our old camp near the Maha village, where all our baggage, which had been wet by the rain of last ni-ht was exposed to dry. There is no game on the river except' wild geese and pelicans. Near Floyd's grave are some flourishing black-walnut trees, which are the first we have seen on our return. [We proceeded to the sand-bar on which we were ot his book). We must hear some of Mr. Aird's news : General Wilkinson at he moment m St. Louis, as Governor of Louisiana ; 300 American troops can- toned a shortd.stance up the Missouri ; disturbances with the Spaniards in the Nackatosh country ; Spain had taken a U. S. frigate in the Mediterranean : two British slMps of war had fired on an American ship in the port of New York • two Indians .langed in St. Louis for murder " and several others in iale " " Mr' Burr & Gerl. Hambleton fought a Duel the l.tter was killed," etc.. Clark N gl" h.s was of course the affair of honor between Aaron Burr and Alexander Haml ilton, at Weehawken on the Hudson, opposite New York City, July nth 1804 \. i f ] { \ I > 4 ■'I m t 'I •41 ' ^ ! ; n J I t i I I 'IT' h 1204 LITTLE SIOUX RIVER— BLUESTONE BLUFFS. camped from the 13th to the 20th of August, 1804, near the Maha village, having made 36 milc^ to-day, Clark N 52.] At night we heard the report of several guns in a direction toward the Maha village, and supposed it to be the signal of the arrival of some trader [i.e., Mr. McClellan, who we were informed was on his way up to the Mahas, Clark N 53]. But not meeting him when we set out next morning, September ^th, we concluded that the firing was merely to announce the return of the Mahas to their village, this being the season at v/hich they return home from buffalo-hunting, to take care of their corn, beans, and pumpkins. The river is now more crooked, the current more rapid and crowded with snags and sawyers, and the bottoms on both sides are well supplied with timber. At three o'clock we passed Blue- stone' bluff, where the river leaves the high lands and mean- ders through a low, rich bottom, and at night camped, after making 73 miles. September 6th. The wind continued ahead, but the mos- quitoes were so tormenting that to remain was more unpleas- ant than even to advance, however slowly; we there- {p. 427) fore proceeded. Near the Little Sioux river we met a trad- ing boat belonging to Mr. Augustus Chateau ' of St. Louis, with several men, on their way to trade with the Yanktons at the Jacques river. We obtained from them a gallon of whisky, and gave each of the party a dram, which is the first spirituous liquor any of them have tasted since the 4th of July, 1805. After remaining with them for some time, we went on to a sand-bar, 30 miles from our last camp, where we passed the night in expectation of being joined • " Blue Stone bluff " Clark N 54— a name not used before : compare " Cobalt bluffs" of p. 51S. But camp is readily fixed " on the S.W. Side on a Sand bar at a cut-off a little below our Encampment of the gth of August 1804," Clark N 54- This cut-off is the Coupee b. Jacques of p. 71, q. v. 'Gasshas it " Shotto," p. 239. "At the lower point of Pelecan Island a little above the Petite River de Suoux we met a tradeing boat of Mr. Ag. Cho- teaux. . . in care of a Mr. Henry Delorn [? De Launay]," Clark N 54. This was Colonel Auguste Chouteau, Sr., founder of the great mercantile house in St. Louis. f't \\\\ CAMP WHITE CATFISH-THE PLATTE PASSED. 1205 by two of the hunters [the brothers Fields]. But as they did not come on, we set out next morning ^ ^unday, September 7th, leaving a cano'e with five men [Sergeant Ordway and four privates] to wait for them but had not gone more than eight miles, when we overtook them; we therefore fired a gun as a signal for the ten behmd which, as the distance in a direct' line was about a m. e hey readily heard and soon Joined us. A little above So d er s nver we stopped to dine en elk, of which wl see p. 67], where we hoped in vain to escape from tlie mosqmtoes. We therefore set out early next'morn'g ciltf rf ' '"' ''°PP^' '°^ ^ ^^°^' ^-- -' the Coun- cil bluffs to examme the situation of the place. We were confirmed m our belief that it would be a very eligible Tpot for a trading-establishment. Being anxious'^to rea hThe 78 7% Z^ 7\ Tr "^" ^'^^ '>' "'^^^ -^ h-d made 78 1731 "^'l^s and landed at our old White-catfish camp fof ive'r We had h'^'^ "^ ^^ ''^' '^^'^^ '^"^ ^^°- 'iLt river. We had here occasion to remark the wonderful evap- oration from the Missouri, which does not appear to conlaTn more water nor its channel to be wider, than at the d" of 1,000 m.les nearer ,ts source; though within that space it recerves about 20 rivers, some of them of consid'^.rable width, and a great number of creeks. This evaporation seems, m fact, to be greater now than when we ascended the nver for vve are obliged to replenish the inkstand every day with fresh ink, nine-tenths of which must escape by evaporation. ^ -^ (A 4^S) September gt/i. By eight o'clock we passed the Platte which IS lower than it was; its waters are almost clear, though the channel is turbulent as usual. The sand- bars which obstructed the Misssouri are, however, washed away, and nothing is to be seen except a few remains of the bar Below the Platte, the current of the Missouri becomes evidently more rapid, and *::, obstructions from fallen tim- .'1 if fi rl mm (■■ i'l .,- if ^:l 'M ^1 'I' I ■• ^ i,.' •i '. 1206 BALD-PATED PRAIRIE — BIG NEMAHA RIVER. ber increase. The river-bottoms are extensive, rich, and covered with tall, large timber, which is still more abundant in the hollows of the ravines, where may be seen oak, ash, and elm, interspersed with some walnut and hickory. The mosquitoes, though still numerous, seem to lose some of their vigor. As v,e advance so rapidly, the change of cli- mate is very perceptible ; the air is more sultry than we have experienced for a long time, and the nights are so warm that a thin blanket is sufficient, though a few days ago two were not burdensome. Late in the afternoon we camped oppo- site [our camp of July i6th and 17th, which had been on] Baldpated prairie, after a journev of 73 miles. September loth. We again set out early and the wind being moderate, though still ahead, we came 65 miles to a sand-bar, a short distance [about four miles] above the Grand Nemaha [see p. 43]. In the course of the day we met a trader, with three men, on his way to the Pawnee Loups, or Wolf r.uvnees, on the Platte. Soon after another boat* passed us with seven men from St. Louis, boui to the Mahas. With both of these trading-parties we had some conversation, but our anxiety to go on would not suffer us to remain long with them. The Indians, particularly the squaws and children, are weary of the long journey, and we are not less desirous of seeing our country and friends. We saw on the shore deer, raccoons, and turkeys. September i ith. A high wind from the northwest detained us till after sunrise, when we proceeded slowly ; for as the river is rapid and narrow, as well as more crowded with •In the first of these boats was " a Mr. Alexander Lafass," qu. Faysseau ? The name is again written, but differently, and I can make nothing of it. The second boat was in charge of " a Mr. La Craw," interlined La Croix, Clark N 59. L. and C. first learned at this moment of Pike's Expedition— the same that gave us Pike's Peak: "Mr. Pike and young Mr. Wilkinson [son of the general] had set out on an expedition up the Arkansaw river or in that direc- tion," Clark N 59. I think that this string of boats the explorers met going up the river, even before they themselves were ready to lay down their own oars, was one of the most deeply significant circumstances in the whole narrative. It showed which way the ' ' course of empire " was already taking — ihat way v,hich Lewis and Clark had been, first of all our countrymen. NADOWA RIVER—OLD ACQUAINTANCES. 120/ sand-bars and timber than above, much caution is necessary (/• 429) in avoiding these obstacles, particularly in the present low state of the water. The Nemaha seems less wide than when we saw it before, and Wolf river has scarcely any water. In the afternoon we halted above the Nadowa to hunt, and killed two deer ; after which we went on to a small island [near the N.E. side, "a few miles" below Nadowa island, Clark N 60: see p. 41]. 40 miles from last night s camp. Here we were no longer annoyed by mosqui- toes, which do not seem to frequent this part of the river • after having been persecuted with these insects during the whole route from the falls, it is a most agreeable exemption. Their noise was very agreeably changed for that of the com- mon wolves, which were howling in different directions, and of the prairie-wolves, whose barking resembles precisely that of the common cur dog. September 12th. After a thick fog and a heavy dew we set out by sunrise, and at the distance of seven miles met twoperiogues, one of them [Chouteau's] bound to the Platte, for the purpose of trading with the Pawnees, the other on a trapping expedition to the neighborhood of the Mahas. Soon after we met the trading-party under Mr. M'Clelland •' and with them was Mr. Gravelines, the interpreter whom we had sent with a Ricara chief to the United States. The chief had unfortunately died at Washington, and Gravelines was now on his way to the Ricaras, with a speech from the President, and the presents which had been made to the chief. He had also directions to instruct the Ricaras in agriculture. He was accompanied on this mission by old Mr. Durion, our former Sioux interpreter, whose object was to procure, by his influence, a safe passage for the Ricara presents through the bands of Sioux, and also to engage some » At St. Michael's Prairie, Clark N 61 : see p. 40. The " M'Clelland " here named was Captain Robert M'Clellan, whom Captain Clark had known per- sonally as a partisan under General Wayne. He is to be disiinguished from a captam of artillery of the same name met Sept. r7th : see p 1210. Both these names occur m five or six different spellings in the codex. Joseph Gravelines will be remembered : see note ', p. 258. w. ''fJi' *i i l •; > / J i i': ' 1' B^ ^^1 'I : r- f'v 1208 MORE EVIDENCE OF THE COURSE OF EMPIRE. Of the Sioux chiefs, not exceeding six, to visit Washington, iioth of them were instructed to inquire particularly after the fate of our party, no intelligence having been received from us during a long time. We authorized Mr. Durion to mvite ten or twelve Sioux chiefs to accompany him, partic- ularly the Yanktons, whom we had found well disposed to our country. The (/. 4J0) afternoon being wet, we deter- mmed to remain with Mr. M'Clellan during the night • and therefore, after sending f^ve hunters ahead, spent the even- ing m mquiries after occurrences in the United States during our absence. By eight o'clock next morning, September 13///, we overtook the hunters; but they had killed nothing. The wind being now too high to proceed safely through timber stuck in every part of the channel we landed and sent the small canoes ahead to hunt. Toward evenmg we overtook them and camped [on the N.E. side] not being able to advance more than 18 miles [below St' Michael's prairie]. The weather was very warm, and the rushes in the bottoms were so high and thick that we could scarcely hunt ; but we were fortunate enough to obtain four deer and a turkey, which, with the hooting-owl, the common buzzard, crow, and hawk, were the only game we saw. Among the timber is the Cottonwood, sycamore, ash, mul- berry, papaw, walnut, hickory, prickly-ash, and several speci- mens of elm, intermixed with great quantities of grape-vines and three kinds of peas. Sunday, September i^t/t. We resumed our journey. This being a part of the river to which the Kansas resort, in order to rob the boats of traders, we held ourselves in readiness to fire upon any Indians who should offer us the slightest in- dignity ; as we no longer needed their friendship, and found that a tone of firmness and decision is the best possible method of making proper impressions on these freebooters. However, we did not encounter any of them ; but just below the old Kansas village met three trading-boats from St. Louis, on their way to the Yanktons and Mahas. After leaving them we saw a number of deer, of which we killed tf i THE KANSAS RIVER PASSED. 120^ five, and camped on an island [near the middle of the river below our camp of July ist, 1804: see p. 36J, 53 miles from' our camp of last evening. September \^th. A strong breeze ahead prevented us from advancing more than 49 miles, to the neighborhood of [a short distance above] Hay-cabin creek. The Kansas river is very low at this time. About a mile below it we landed to view the situa- (/. 4.31) tion of a high hill, which h.is many advantages for a trading-house or fort ; while on the shore we gathered great quantities of papaws and shot an elk. The low grounds are now delightful, and the whole country exhibits a rich appearance ; but the weather is op- pressively warm, and descending as rapidly as we do from a cool open country, [for the most part] between the lati- tudes of 46° and 49°, in which we have been for nearly two years, to the wooded plains in latitudes 38° and 39°, the heat would be almost insufferable were it not for the constant winds from the south and southeast. September i6th. We set out at an early hour, but the weather soon became so warm that the men rowed but little. In the course of the day we met two trading-parties "• on their way to the Pawnees and Mahas ; and, after making 52 miles, remained on an island [a little above our camp of the 17th and 18th of June, 1804: see p. 26] till next morning, September 17 tk, when we passed in safety the island of the Little Osage village. This place is considered by the navi- '0 The second of these parties was that of " young Mr. Bobidoux," Clark N 66, I. e., either Joseph 01 Fran9ois Robidou, Robidoux, or Robadeau. These were brothers, and we find by St. Louis papers they were in business there in 1820, when they moved their store to Papin's brick house. Captain Clark was surprised to find a certain suspiciously loose license the young man had to trade with various Indians, without the Territorial seal or Gen. Wilkinson's signature He was not acquainted with the autograph of the Territorial secretary, and was rather inclined to take charge of the youth. However, the trader was allowed to go, with a caution "against prosueing the steps of his brother in attempting degrade the American character in the eyes of the Indians." We may remem- ber that he was at the moment in the hands of two of the most resolute and determined men who ever lived, each of .;hom became in turn for some years the Governor of all the United States' territory west of the Mississippi. .11 V m :Cl 1210 ANOTHER CAPTAIN M'CLELLAN— GRAND RIVER. gators of the Missouri as the most dangerous part of it the whole water being compressed for two miles within a narrow channel crowded with timber, into which the violence of the current is constantly washing the banks. At the distance of 30 miles we met Captain McClellan," lately of the United States army, with whom we camped [four miles above Grand river, on the S.E. side]. He informed us that the general opinion in the United States was that we were ost : the last accounts which had been heard of us being from the Mandan villages. Captain McClellan is on his way to attempt a new trade with the Indians. His plan is to establish himself on the Platte, and after trading with the Pawnees and Ottoes, prevail on some of their chiefs to accompany him to Santa Fee, where he hopes to obtain permission to exchange his merchandise for gold or silver which IS there in abundance. If this be granted, he can transport his goods on mules or horses from the Platte to some part of Louisiana convenient to the Spanish settle- ments, where he may be met by the traders from New Mexico. (A 4J^) September iWi. We parted with Captain Mc Clellan, and within a few [four] miles passed Grand river [note ,June 13th, 1804], below which we overtook the hunters, who had been sent forward yesterday afternoon. They had not been able to kill anything, nor did we see any game except one bear and three turkeys, so that our whole stock of provisions is one biscuit for each person ; but as there is an abundance of papaws, the men are perfectly con- tented. The current of the river is more gentle than it was when we ascended, the water being lower, though still rapid in "•'M'Clanen- in Gass, who says that the captain "gave all our party as n.„ch wh.sUey as they could drink," p. .63. The critics call GasI' Journal dry, but It IS generally to the point, and never dryer than the sergeant's tluoat njust have becorne by this ti.e. For the officer here in Itbn'co:; pare note », p. 1307. He had been a captain of Artillerists, ^vith whom Captain Lew,s was acqua.nted, '• This gentleman informed us that we had been bng ence g.ven out [up] by the people of the US generally and almost forgotten- the President of the U. States had yet hopes of us." Clark N 67 OSAGE AND GASCONADE RIVERS— LA CHARETTE. 121 1 places where it is confined. We continued to pass through a very fine country for 52 miles, when we camped [on an island] nearly opposite Mine river. September igth. We worked our oars all day without taking time to hunt, or even landing, except once to gather papaws ; and at eight o'clock reached the entrance of Osage river, a distance of 72 miles [where we camped on the spot we had occupied June 1st and 2d, 1804 see p. 11]. Several of the party have been for a day or two attacked with a sore- ness in the eyes; the eye-ball being very much swelled and the lid appearing as if burnt by the sun, and extremely pain- ful, particularly when exposed to the light. Three of the men are so much affected by it as to be unable to row. We therefore turned one " of the boats adrift, and distributed the men among the other canoes, when v/e set out a little before daybreak, September 20th. The Osage is at this time low, and dis- charges but a very small quantity of water. Near the mouth of the Gasconade, where we arrived at noon, we met five Frenchmen on their way to the Great Osage village. As we moved along rapidly we saw on the banks some cows feed- ing, and the whole party almost involuntarily raised a shout of joy at seeing this image of civilization and domestic life. Soon after we reached the little French village of La Charette, which we saluted with a discharge of four guns and three hearty cheers. We landed and were recei- (/. ^j-j) ved with kindness " by the inhabitants, as well as by some traders from Canada [two young Scotchmen in the employ of Mr. Aird], who Vv^ere going to traffic with the Osages and Ottoes. They were all equally surprised and pleased at our arrival, for they had long since abandoned all hopes of ever seeing us return. " " We left the two canoes lashed together which I had made high up the River Rochejhone, those canoes we set a drift," Clark N 71. 'Mt is almost too bad— but : "we purchased of a citizen two gallons of Whiskey for our party for which we were obliged to give Eight Dollars in Cash, an imposition on the part of that Citizen," Clark N 73. i ■\^ m I2I3 ST. CHARLES. ii 4 'I , ' I I f^* 1 l''-''l'^" These Canadians have boats for the navigation of the M.ssoun, wh.ch seem better calculated for the purpose than bouV."o7^'; "'°^";- '^'"'^^"•" theshapeof batteaux. about 30 feet long and 8 wide, the bow and stern pointed he bottom flat, and carrying six oars only ; their chief ad van! tage IS the.r width and flatness, which saves them from the danger of rolling sands. Having come 68 miles, and the weather threatening to be bad, we remained at La Charette till the next morning Sn,u/af September 21./, when we proceeded; and as several settlements have been made during our absence, we were refreshed with the sight of men and cattle along the banks. We also passed twelve canoes of Kickapoo Indians going on a hunting-excursion. At length, after coming 48 m.les we saluted, with heartfelt satisfaction, the village of St. Char es, and on landing were treated with the <.reatest hosp.tahty and kindness by all the inhabitants of thJl place Their civility detained us till ten o'clock the nexl morning, ' for r M : ' ' ,''^''" '^' '■^'" ^'-^^'"S ^^^^-d. we set out for Coldwater creek, about three miles from the mouth of Vn-^erZ' Tu "u ^°""^ ' ^-ntonment of troops of the United States, with whom we passed the day ; and then," party and set out and proceeded on down to the Contommt. at Coldwater Creek about 3 m.les up the Missouri on its Southern banks, at this place we found Colo Hunt & a I.eut. Peters & one Company of Artillerists. We were k n rrecSved by the gentlemen of this place. Mrs. Wilkinson, the Lady of the Gov & GenV TdTh T '^ '"' " '^""^^^^ '"''''''• ^^^ -- ''--ed with sah'e of "s m orn^ed the U S have 60000$ worth of Indian goods." Clark N 75. fR w..^ ^ u ^"^^''^y23d Septr. t8o6. We rose early took the Chief [B,g Wh.te] to the publick store & furnished him with some dothes &c 1 an early brackfast with Colo. Hunt and set out decended to the M^issip^ and down that nver to St. Louis at which place we arived abou X2 oClock l! f'uir'' '° '" "^ ^'"'^ P'^^" '' ' Salute to the Town. We w re met by all the v.Uage and received a harty welcom from it's inhabitants! Lre ubl-: i„Ta:^ ^'^::T' ^^^^^- ^^^^-^ ^^ho had settled in this totn i public line as a i . e, . Keeper. He furnished us with store room for our bag- '! f • I'.! ST. LOUIS. 1213 September 23- ^^-ini-red tohim 'ome:rthe Pete -s bv Keat Lr TT" ^r""'"^ """^^•" ^°"e's Exped. to the St. reters, Dy Keating, London, 1825, I. p. 432. :.j% i\v ESSAY ON AN INDIAN POLICY. 1223 IIS quarter 3ng in the ;tircd and lants, and ason that Ayaways, oin, who power to t in that ippi, sold le latter ; ley incul- e fathers lerchants view but this doc- at which f course uation it ;he force /ould, in ik down ichment on with er it to -n], and nations ' on the m' and respect fpediti ms imeron, a me of the o the St. to the Cissitons, Yanktons of the plains, Tctons, etc., who occasionally resorted to the Missouri still higher up. War- parties of thos« nations were consequently found lying in wait on the Missouri to intercept the boats of the merchants of that river at the seasons they were expected to pass, and depredations were frequently committed, particularly by the Ayaways ; who have been known in several instances to cap- ture boats on the Missouri, in their descent to St. Louis and compelled the crews to load themselves with heavy burdens of their best furs across the country to their towns, where they disposed of them (/. 44J) to the British merchants In those cases they always destroyed the pcriogues, and such of the peltries and furs as they could not carry off. It may be urged that the British merchants, knowing that the United States at present, through mere courtesy, permits them to extend their trade to the west side of the Missis- sippi—or rather, that they are mere tenants at will, whom the United States possesses the means of ejecting at pleas- ure— will under these circumstances be induced to act dif- ferently toward us than they did in relation to the Spanish government ; but what assurance have we that this will be the effect of the mere change of governments without change of measures in relation to them ? Suffer me to ask what solid grounds there are to hope that their gratitude for our tolerance and liberality on this subject will induce them to hold a different policy toward us? None, in my opinion unless we stimulate their gratitude by placing before their eyes the instruments of our power in the form of one or two garrisons on the upper part of the Mississippi. Even admitting that these people were actuated by the most friendly regard toward the interests of the United States, and at this moment made a common cause with us to induce the Indians to demean themselves in an orderly manner toward our government, and to treat our traders of the Missouri with respect and friendship; yet, without some efficient check on the Indians, I should not think our citizens or our traders secure ; because the Indians, who have, for ten il 5 Ml f \ m^ I'll 'i 1224 ESSAY ON AN INDIAN POMCV : i 4 ! !ifi!. n'|.J years and upward, derived advantages from practice in lessons of rapacity taught tliem by those traders, cannot in a moment be brought back to a state of primitive innocence by the united persuasions of ail tlie British traders. I hold'it to be an axiom, incontrovertible, that it is more easy to intro- duce vice into all states of society than it is to eradicate it • anci that this is still more strictly true when applied to man in his savage than in his civilized state. If, therefore, ue wish, within some short period, to divest ourselves of the ev.ls which have flowed from the inculca- {/>. ^.;^) tion of those doctrines of vice, we must employ some more active agent than the inHuence of the same teachers who first introduced them. Such an agent, in my opinion, is the power of withholding merchandise from them at pleasure- and to accomplish this, we must first provide the means of controlling the merchants. If we permit the British mer- chants to supply the Indians in Louisiana, as formerly, the influence of our government over those Indians is lost. For the Indian, in possession of his merchandise, feels him- self independent of every government, and will proceed to commit the same depredations which he did when rendered independent by the Spanish system. The traders give themselves but little trouble at any time to inculcate among the Indians a respect for governments • but are usually content with proclaiming their own impor- tance. When the British merchants give themselves the trouble to speak of governments, it is but fair to presume that they will teach the natives to respect the power of their own. And at all events, we know from experience that no regard for the blood of our frontier inhabitants will influence them at any time to withhold arms and ammunition from the Indians, provided they are to profit by furnishing them. Having now stated, as they occurred to my mind the several evils which have flowed from the system of inter- course with the Indians pursued by the Spanish govern- ment, I shall next endeavor to point out the defects of our own system, and show its incompetency to produce the ESSAY ON AN INDIAN POLICY. 1225 wishcd-for reform; then, with some remarks on the Indian character, I will conckulc by submittintr, for the considera- tion o our tjovernment. the outlines of a plan which has been dictated as well by a sentiment of philanthropy toward the abori^Mnes of America, as by a just regard to the pro- tection .»f the lives and property of our citizens ; and with the further view of securing to the people of the United States, exclusively, {p. ^yj) the advantages which ought of ngiit to accrue to them from the possession of Louisiana We now permit the British merchants of Canada, indis- criminately with our own, to enter the Missouri and trade with the nations in that quarter. Although the government "f the United htates has not yielded the point that, as a matter of right, the Mritish merchants have the privilege of trading in this cpiarter ; yet from what has been said to them, they are now acting under a belief that it will be some time before any prohibitory measures will be taken with respect to them ; they are therefore making rapid strides to secure themselves in the affection of the Indians, and to break down, as fast as possible, the American adventurers by underselling them, and thus monopolize that trade. This they will effect to an absolute certainty in the course of a few years. The old Northwest Company of Canada have within the last two years, formed a union with the Newyork [New York] Company, who had previously been their only important rivals in the fur trade. This company, with the great accession of capital brought them by the Newyork Company, have, with a view to the particular monopoly of the Missouri, formed a connection with a British house in Newyork and another at New Orleans, and have sent their particular agent, by the name of Jacob Mires, to take his station at St. Louis. It may be readily conceived that the united Northwest and Newyork companies, who had pre- viously extended their trade in opposition to each other and to the exclusion of all unassociated merchants on the upper portion of the Mississippi, the waters of Lake Winni pec [Winnipeg], and the Athebaskey [Athapasca] country I ffi ii i I'i f 1226 ESSAY ON AN INDIAN POLICY. would after their late union, have a surplus of capital and a surplus of men which they could readNy empb/i„ some lenitv of"""- ^"''' "'' "" '''^^™"' "'-'• '^m ^e en.ty of our government, they 3aw was open to them • and do beheve could the fact be ascertained'that the hope l1 fu ure gam from the fur trade of that river was one of the pnncpa causes of the union between those two grc^t ival " '"•• ."■■(A«^) trade of North America. That thL ^radc w,l, be nurtured and protected by the British gov r^ could LT "°, r''*;'"' '"'">' '<=^'°"' "hich it strikes me could be offered, but which, not falling immediately within ana. 1 shall forbear to mention. As the Missouri forms only one of four large branches of «.e commerce of this united, or, as it is stilf called. North hrel r*""^; ""-'^ "'" '"""^ ■' '" "'=i^ P°"". not only to break down all smgle adventurers on the Missouri, bu^ Tn the course of a few years to effect the same thing ^ith any TZZl ""'".'"'' °' "•' ""''=<• States. w\o migh^ tTert^l-°T "°" "'"^ ""^™ '" "■'= ='"g''= branch of I s fa tt;„ f " " ""''"= '""' ""' "-"^"ants, knowing this trade, while they see the Northwest Company permiued by our government to trade on the Missouri and on th" west s.de of the Mississippi. Therefore the Northwest Complny cap ta' from th " ' '"'"» '"^^" "'^ ^^^™'"-- °< -=^'' capital from these portions of our territory, will most prob- ably never afterward have a rival in any company of our own merchants. By their continuance they will acquire strengtl t th thfrn ' ^'f'^-'°' '"°"°P°'>'' "•'=y will then tfade w th the Indians on their own terms ; being possessed of the trade, both on the Mississippi and the Missouri, they can trade ,slh™h./ ^ , '""""^^ «cqu.i„l.„ce will, the !„dl.„ f„. i"! make the ESSAY ON AN INDIAN POLICY. 3f th( 1227 .Kicesoi tneir goods in both quarters owmu. , u..u though these may be excessively high, yet, being the same they will run no risk of disaffecting the Indians by a com- panson of the prices at which they receive their goods at those places. If, then, it appears that, the longer we extend the privilege to the Northwest Company of continuing their trade within our territory, the difficulty of exclud- ing them will increase, can we begin the work of exclu- sion too soon ? For my own part I see not the necessity to admit that our own merchants are not at this mo- ment competent to supply the Indians of the Missouri with such (/. ^^7) quantities of goods as will, at least in the acceptation of the Indians themselves, be deemed satisfac tory and sufficient for their necessities. All their ideas rela- tive to their necessities are only comparative, and may be tested by a scale of the quantities they have been in the habit of receiving. Such a scale I transmitted to our gov- ernment from Fort Mandan. From a regard to the happi- ness of the Indians, it would give me much pleasure to see this scale liberally increased ; yet I am clearly of opinion that this effect should be caused by the regular progression of the trade of our own merchants, under the patronage and protection of our own government. This will afford addi- tional security to the tranquillity of our much extended frontier, while it will give wealth to our merchants. We know that the change of government in Louisiana from Spain to the United States has withdrawn no part of the capital formerly employed in the trade of the Missouri ; the same persons remain, and continue to prosecute their trade. To these there has been an accession of several enterprising American merchants ; several others since my return have signified their intention to embark in that trade within the present year; and the whole of these merchants are now unembarrassed by the exactions of Spanish governors. Under these circumstances, is it fa!- Tor us to presume that the Indians are not now supplied by our own merchants with quite as large an amount in merchandise as they were i\ m i'i MI. m ; • . _ [ i If; 'W i M I ' " i ¥ 1228 ESSAY ON AN INDIAN POLICY. formerly accustomed to receive ? Should the quantity thus supphcd not fully meet our wishes on liberal 'views tmvard I c Ind.ans, ,t ,s sounder policy to await the certain progress f our o,vn trade than, in order to supply this momentary eficency, to admit the aid of the Northwest Company, at le expense of the to.,aI loss of that trade; thereby Kivin? t r™ ofT /''"'t";'^'''''''' '"''"'■' '" '"'"- "-^-vn terms of traffic w.th the Indians; an «' iJA/ifl" f ""''' ""=^f'""'^ ''"^'^ prohibited from trad, u g ,n Upper Lou.s.ana, American merchants, with the aid the Missouri and the western branches of the Mississippi m. Is of the Northwest Company in the more distant parts a w 1 fT h"?1' '° "']"'^'' "'-■ '"'«'" '°°'^-' '■" ^-" case, with a well-founded hope of enjoying great advantages fro^ tl e fur trade. But if this prohibition does not thortly t ke pace, I venture to predict that no such attempts wih over be made, and that consequently we shall f„, seteral genera ..ous be taxed with the defense of a country which to u, would be no more than a barren waste About the beginning of August last, two of the wintering and Mmnetaree villages on the Missouri, and fixed on a scite 10 Iff:: t' =^''-""'*"-'- -f '- P^ject once carr d ".to effect, we have no right to hope for the trade of the ..;;.:rc?, r"r.r.L' :::?;;:',- -7 1: Lr?;-^ ««.y .vi,hi„ a ;„ 1 A,:: I '3* '" Th"" ■'"'• °' r """'''" »' ""' 111 J ESSAY ON AN INDIAN POLICY. ntity thus ws toward ti pro},rress lomentary Tipany, at by giving their own »wing the ed into a M- with at rom trad- 1 the aid ortion of ssissippi, ucccssful tnt parts ase, with from the ■tly take vili over genera- h to us interincf Mandan I a scite carried : of the indans, in t into t^ic i7fi, etc., es. The 3n of this re conse- ters with .1 MS. of inywhere ^'. upper portion of the Mi.ssouri until our government shall think proper to dislodge them. This season there has been sent up the Missouri, for the Indian trade, more than treble the (juantity of merchandise that has ever been previously embarked in that trade at any one period. Of this quantity, as far as I could judge from the best information I could collect, two-thirds was the prop- erty of liriti.sh merchants, and directly or indirectly that of the Northwest Company. Not any of this merchandise was destined for a higher point on the Missouri than the mouth of the Vermilion river, or the neighborhood of the Yank- tons of the river Demoin. Of course there will be a great excess of goods beyond what the Indians can purchase, unless the goods are .sold at one-third their customary price, which the American merchant certainly cannot do without sacrificing his capital. On my return this fall, I met on the Missouri an American merchant by the name of Robert M'Clellan, formerly a dis- tinguished partisan in the army under General Wayi>e. (A •/•/?) In conversation with this gentleman I learned that during la.st winter, in his trade with the Maha.s, he had a competitor by the name of Joseph La Croix, believed tn be employed by the Northwest Company, but now an avowed British merchant; that the prices at which La Croix .sold his goods compelled M'Clellan to reduce the rates of his own gooils so much as to cause him to sink upward of two thousand dollars of his capital in the course of his trade that season ; but that as he had embarked in this trade for two years par,t, and had formed a favorable accjuaintance with the Mahas and others, he should still continue it a few seasons more, even at a loss of his time and capital, in the in the thirty codices I possess, nor do I even know whether it was first pub- lished in this book, or originally (jrinted in another connection. I imap;ine that it was a special ofHcial report from Captain Lewis to President Jefferson, and that if the original MS. he extant it should he found in the archives of the State Department, in Captain Lewis' handwriting. It is certainly his literary composition, as we see hy the jjeciiliarly involved .syntactical form of what is in substance a remarkably clear and cogent presentation of the important subject. iKl I i , t.r ' V ■:i" i i' F : J; i'l i^ ft I iii til i 1230 ESSAY ON AN INDIAN POLICY. hope that government, seeing the error, would correct it and that he might then regain his losses, from the circum- stance of his general acquaintance with the Indians. 1 also met on my way to St. Louis another merchant by the same name, a Captain M'Clellan, formerly of the United bta es Corps of Artillerists. This gentleman informed me tha he was connected with one of the principal houses in Baltimore-which one I do not now recollect, but can readily ascertam the name and standing of the firm, if it is consid- ered o any importance. He said he had brought with him a small but well-assorted adventure, calculated for the Indian trade, by way of experiment ; that the majority of his goods were of the fine, high-priced kind, calculated for the trade with the Spanish province of New Mexico, which he intended to carry on within the territory of the United States, near the border of that province; that connected with this object the house with which he was concerned was ready to embark largely in the fur trade of the Missouri, provided It should appear to him to offer advantages to them ; that since he had arrived in Louisiana, which was last autumn he had endeavored to inform himself of the state of this trade ; and that from his inquiries he had been so fully im- pressed with the disadvantages it labored under from the free admission of British merchants, that he (p. 4.0) had written to his house in Baltimore, advising that Uiey should not embark in this trade, unless those merchants were pro- hibited from entering the river. I have mentioned these two as cases in point, which have fallen immediately under my own observation: the first shows the disadvantages under which the trade of our own merchants is now actually laboring '; and the second, that no other merchants will probably engage in this trade while the British fur traders are permitted by our government to con- tinue their traffic in Upper Louisiana. With this view of the subject, It is submitted to the government, with which it alone rests to decide whether admission or non-admission of those merchants is at this moment most expedient i correct it, :he circum- ns. erchant by he United formed me houses in :an readily is consid- : with him the Indian his goods the trade i intended ates, near ^^'ith this vas ready provided em ; that autumn, e of this fully im- from the ^50) had y should ^ere pro- ich have the first our own , that no 'hile the : to con- view of ivhicli it ssion of ESSAY ON AN INDIAN POLICY. The custom of giving credits to the 1231 idians, which grew out of the Spanish system, still exists ; and, agreeably to our present plan of intercourse with these people, is likely to 'produce more pernicious consequences than it did formerly. The Indians of the Missouri, who have been in the habit of considering these credits rather as presents, or as the price of their permission for the trader to depart in peace, still con- tinue to view it in the same light, and will, therefore, give up their expectations on that point with some reluctance ; nor can the merchants well refuse to acquiesce, while they are compelled to be absent from the nations with which they trade five or six months in the year. The Indians are yet too vicious to permit them in safety to leave goods at their trading-houses during their absence, in the care of one or two persons ; the merchant, therefore, would rather suffer loss by giving credit than incur the expense of a compe- tent guard or doubling the quantity of his engagees; for it requires as many men to take the peltries and furs to market as it does to bring the goods to the trading-establishment, and the number usually employed are not found at any time to be more than sufficient to give a tolerable security against the Indians. (/• 45^) I presume it will not be denied that it is our best policy, and will be our practice, to admit, under the restrictions of our laws on this subject, a fair competition among all our merchants in the Indian trade. This being the case, then it will happen, as it has already happened, that one merchant having trade with any nation, at ihe usual season gives them credit and departs ; a second, knowing that such advance had been made, hurries his outfit c.nd arrives at that nation perhaps a month earlier in the fall than the merchant who had made this advance to the Indians; he immediately assembles the nation and offers his goods in ex- change for their redskin hunt ; the good faith of the Indians, with respect to the absent merchant, will not bind them to refuse ; an exchange, of course, takes place ; and when the merchant to whom they are indebted arrives, they have no i (■ ■■ i< ; I 1232 ESSAY ON AN INDIAN POLICY. II ^ ' i •' M li 1 I 'i r peltry, either to barter or to pay him for the goods which mc7chr .'■'1'' "'"''''• '^''^ ^'0"-^q-^nces are that the merchant who has sustained the loss becomes frantic • he abuses the Indians, bestows on them the epithets of "liar" and dog, and says a thousand things only calculated to sou then- mmds and disaffect them to the whites: the rival trader he accuses of having '< robbed " him of his credits (for they never give this species of artifice among them- selves a m.lder term), and calls him many opprobrious aTn:; H. '""'T ' '"^T"^'^ ^^"^"^^' '■" -J-h'the'irinci^: thizc with the.r respective employers. The Indians are the llTjTtl ''T '^'^"^ ^-"--tions, which are well cal- ^^h tcs and to inspire th.m with a belief of the importance of their peltries and furs. The British traders have even tri. r'''VV'" ''"''"^^^^' '-^"^ ^^'^^^^ b"bes to induce he Indians to destroy each other; nor have I any reason o doubt that the same thing will happen on the Miss; r unless some disinterested person, armed with authority bJ government, be placed in such a situation (p.^j,) as wiH enable h.m to prevent such controversies as oIr'7r" '^''' '"''""^ ^^ extending credits to the Indians as one of he great causes of all those individual contentions which wm most probably arise in the course of this trade a well between the Indians and whites, as between the whites themselves ; and fear that our agents and officers will be always harassed with settling these disputes, which they never can do in such a manner as to restore a perfect good understanding between che parties. I think :t would be best, in the outset, for the government to let it be under- « Collisions between rival traders were fre.^aent. and sometimes resulted in b ocKlshed : see for example the case of Manuel Lisa and one of tl 'C h W s'^su tit: 'T' '' '"^""' '" "-^ -^'' ^-'-- "y "racked i ; Z Tul V^^' '", '' ^''''''' ^"'^"'' "' ^^^"'t'^ Astoria, Chap, xvii . I I ESSAY ON AN INDIAN POLICY. 1233 Stood by the merchants that, if they think proper to extend credits to the Indians, it shall be at their own risk, depend- ent on the good faith of the Indians for voluntary payment; that the failure of the Indians to comply with their con' tracts shall not be considered any justification for their mal- treatment or abusive language ; and that no assistance shall be given them m any shape by the public functionaries to aid them in collecting their credits. If the government interfere in behalf of the traders by any regulation, then it will be the interest of every trader individually to get the Indians indebted to him, and to keep them so in order to secure in future their peltries and furs exclusively to him- self. Thus the Indians would be compelled to exchange without choice of either goods or prices, and the govern- ment would have pledged itself to make the Indians pay for goods of which they cannot regulate the prices. I pre- sume the government will not undertake to regulate the merchant in this respect by law. The difficulties which have arisen, and which must arise under existing circumstances, may be readily corrected by establishing a few posts, where there shall be a sufficient guard to protect the property of the merchants in their absence, though it may be left with only a single clerk. To those common marts all traders and Indians should be compelled to resort for the purposes of traffic. (A 453) The plan proposed guards against all difficulties, and provides for a fair exchange, without the necessity of credit. When the Indian appears with his peltry and fur, competition between the merchants will always insure him' his goods on the lowest possible terms; and the exchange taking place at once, there can be no cause of controversy between the Indian and the merchant, and no fear of loss on the part of the latter, unless he is disposed to make a volun- tary sacrifice, through a spirit ot competition with others, by selling his goods at an under-valuation. Some of the stipulations contained in the licences usually granted our Indian traders are totally incompatible with the ^- ' I: ^1 'il I'f • 1234 ESSAY ON AN INDIAN POLICY. ! ■< fl :■ ji I 4m, local situations and existing customs and habits of almost all the Indian nations in Upper Louisiana. I allude more particularly to that clause in the license which compels them to trade at Indian towns only. It will be seen by reference to my Statistical View of the Indian nations of Upper Louisiana, that the great body of those people are roving bands, who have no villages or stationary residence. The next principal division of the, "-acing the Panias Ottoes, Kansas, etc., have not their Z .3 on the Missouri' and even they pass the greater portion of the year at a dis- tance from their villages, in the same roving manner. The third and only portion of those Indians who can with pro- priety be considered as possessed of such stationary villages as seems to have been contemplated by this clause of the license, ,s confined to the Ayaways, Sioux, and Foxes of the Mississippi, and the Ricaras, Mandans, Minnetarees, and Ahwahaways of the Missouri. The consequence is that until some further provision be made, all the traders who have intercourse with any nations except those of the last class will form their establishments at the several points on the Missouri, where it will be most convenient to meet the several nations with whom they wish to carry on commerce. This IS their practice at the present moment, and their houses are scattered on various parts of the Mis- (/. 4C4) soun. n this detached situation, it cannot be expected that they will comply with any of the stipulations of their licenses The superintendent of St. Louis, distant 800 or 1 000 miles, cannot learn whether they have forfeited the pen'alty of their licenses or not ; they may, therefore, vend ardent spirits compromit the government, or the character of the whites, in the estimation of the Indians, or practice any other crimes in relation to those people, without the fear of detection or punishment. The government cannot with propriety say to those traders that they shall trade at vil- ages which in reality do not exist ; nor can the government for a moment, I presume, think of incurring the expense of sending an Indian agent with each trader, to see that the lat ESSAY ON AN INDIAN POLICY. of almost lude more 1 compels e seen by lations of )eople are residence, le Panias, Missouri, r at a dis- ler. The with pro- y villages se of the ces of the rees, and i is that ders who the last Doints on meet the •mmerce. nd their (A 4S4) :ted that licenses. 3r I, GOO penalty i ardent acter of tice any - fear of ot with J at vil- :rnment )ense of the lat- 1235 ter commits no breach of the stipulations of his license. These traders must of course be brought together at some general points, where it will be convenient for several nations to trade with them, and where they can be placed under the eye of an Indian agent, whose duty it should be to see that they comply with the regulations laid down for their govern- ment. There are crimes which may be committed without a breach of our present laws, and which make it necessary that some further restrictions than those contained in the present licenses of our traders should either be added under penalties in those licenses, or else be punished by way of a discretionary power lodged in the superintendent, extending to the exclusion of such individuals from the Indian trade. Of these crimes I shall here enumerate three : First, that of holding conversations with Indians tending to bring our government into disrepute among them, and to alienate their affections from the same. Second, that of practicing any means to induce Indians to maltreat or plunder other merchants. Third, that of stimulating or exciting, by bribes or other- wise, any nations or bands of Indians to wage war against other nations or bands ; or against the citizens of the United (A 4SS) States ; or against citizens or subjects of any power at peace with the same. These appear to me to be crimes fraught with more real evil to the community, and to the Indians themselves, than vending ardent spirits or visiting their hunting-camps for the purpose of trade ; yet there are no powers vested in the superintendents or agents of the United States to prevent their repeated commission; nor restrictions or fines im- posed bv our laws to punish such offenses. It is well known to me that we have several persons engaged in the trade of the Missouri who have within the last three years been adopted as citizens of the United States, and who are now hostile to our government. It is not reasonable to expect that such persons will act with good faith toward us. Hence the necessity of assigning I ill fi i • l''!i| f ft ipi: .: I I \h u ^ i f n 1236 ESSAY ON AN INDIAN POLICY. 4 metes and bounds to their transactions among the Indians On my way to St. Louis last fall I received satisfactory evidence that a Mr. Robideau, an inhabitant of St. Louis, had, the preceding winter, during his intercourse with the Ottoes and Missouris, been guilty of the most flagrant breaches of the first of the misdemeanors above mentioned ' On my arrival at St. Louis I reported the case to Mr. Broom, the acting superintendent, and recommended his prohibiting that person from the trade of the Missouri unless he would give satisfactory assurance of a disposition to hold a different language toward the Indians. Mr. Broom informed me that the laws and regulations of the United States on this subject gave him no such powers ; and Mr. Robideau and sons still prosecute their trade. ^ The uncontrolled liberty which our citizens take of hunt- ing on Indian lands has always been a source of serious difiRculty on every part of our frontier, and is evidently destined to become quite as much so in Upper Louisiana unless It be restrained and limited within consistent bounds' When the Indians have been taught by commerce duly to appreciate the furs and peltries of their country, they feel (/• 4S^) excessive chagrin at seeing the whites, by their superior skill in hunting, fast diminishing those productions to which they have been accustomed to look as the only means of acquiring merchandise ; and nine-tenths of the causes of war are attributable to this practice. The Indians though well disposed to maintain a peace on any other terms, I am convinced will never yield this point ; nor do I consider it as of any importance to us that they should • for with what consistency of precept with practice can we say to the Indians whom we wish to civilize, that agriculture and ' That is, the offense of bringing our government into disrepute by misrepre- sentmg it to the Indians and thus making them disloyal : see p 1235 The Mr Robideau here in mention is the " Bobidoux " of note '», p. 1209 jr z. I think that the " Mr Broom " of the present paragraph is Mr. Joseph Browne, who was General and Governor Wilkinson's Territorial Secretary, acting in the Governor's absence. ESSAY ON AN INDIAN POLICY. 1237 the arts are more productive of ease, wealth, and comfort than the occupation of hunting, while they see distributed over their forests a number of white men engaged in the very occupation which our doctrine would teach them to abandon. Under such circumstances it cannot be consid- ered irrational in the Indians to conclude that our recom- mendations to agriculture are interested, and flow from a wish on our part to derive the whole emolument arising from the peltries and furs of their country, by taking them to ourselves. These observations, however, are intended to apply only to such Indian nations as have had, and still maintain, a com- mercial intercourse with the whites; such we may say are those inhabiting the western branches of the Mississippi, the eastern branches of the Missouri, and near the main body of the latter, as far up as the Mandans and Minnetarees. Here it is, therefore, that it appears to me expedient we should draw a line and temporarily change our policy. I presume it is not less the wish of our government that the Indians on the extreme branches of the Missouri to the west, and within the Rocky mountains, should obtain supplies of merchandise equally with those more immedi- ately in their vicinity. To effect this, the government must either become the merchants or present no obstacles to its citizens which may prevent their becoming such with those distant nations; but as the former course cannot be adopted, though I really think it would be best for a time, then it (/. ^57) becomes the more necessary to encourage the latter. Policy further dictates such encouragement being given, in order to contravene the machinations pre- paring by the Northwest Company for practice in that quarter. If hunters are not permitted in those distant regions, merchants will not be at the expense of transporting their merchandise thither, when they know that the natives do not possess the art of taking the furs of their country. The use of the trap, by which those furs are taken, is an art 11 Ijii pi; « H'l!' ' ^ ' 11^ ' ' ' # • P , f I ' V ( 1238 ESSAY ON AN INDIAN POLICY. M f which must be learned before it can be practiced to advan- tage. If the American merchant does not adventure, the field is at once aban ' .ned to the Northwest Company, who will permit the hunter to go, and the merchant will most probably be with him in the outset; for the abundance of rich furs in that country holds out sufificient inducement for them to lose no time in pressing forward their adventures. Thus those distant Indians will soon be supplied with mer- chandise ; while they arc taught the art of taking the fur of their country, they will learn its value ; and until they have learned its value, we shall run no risk of displeasing them by taking it. When the period shall arrive that the distant nations shall have learned the art of taking their fur, and know how to appreciate its value, then the hunter becomes no longer absolutely necessary to the merchant, and may be withdrawn ; but, in the outset, he seems to form a very neces- sary link in that chain which is to unite these nations and ourselves in a state of commercial intercourse. The liberty to our merchants of hunting for the purpose of procuring food, in ascending and descending the navigable water-courses, as well as while stationary at their commer- cial posts, is a privilege which should not be denied them ; but as the unlimited extent of such a privilege would pro- duce much evil, it should certainly be looked on as a sub- ject of primary importance. It should, therefore, enter into all those compacts which we may think proper to form with (P- 4-5^) the Indians of that country, and be so shaped as to leave them no solid grounds of discontent. A view of the Indian character, so far as it is necessary it; should be known for the purposes of governing them, or of mai.itaining a friendly commercial intercourse with them, may be comprised within the limits of a few general remarks. The love of gain is the Indians' ruling passion, and the fear of punishment must form the corrective ; to th"^ passion we are to ascribe their inordinate thirst for the possession of merchandise, their unwillingness to accede to any terms, or 1 1 \ ;- ESSAY ON AN INO* .N I v>LICY. 1239 enter into any stipulaiions, except surh as appear to promise them commercial advantages, and the want of good faith which they always evince by not complying with any regu- lations which in practice do not produce to them those expected or promised advantages. The native justice of the Indian mind will always give way to his impatience for the possession of the goods of the defenseless merchant ; he will plunder him unless prevented by the fear of punish- ment ; nor can punishment assume a more terrific shape to the Indians than that of withholding every description of merchandise from them. This species of punishment, while It IS one of the most efificient in governing the Indians, is cer- tainly the most humane, as it enforces a compliance with our will without the necessity of bloodshed. But in order to compass the exercise of this weapon, our government must first provide the means of controlling our traders. No gov- ernment will be respected by the Indians until they are made to feel the effects of its power, or see it practiced on others ; and the surest guarantee of savage fidelity to any government is a thorough conviction in their minds that the government does possess the power of punishing promptly every act of aggression which they may commit on the persons or property of its citizens. If both traders and Indians throughout Upper Louisiana were compelled to resort to regulated commercial posts, then the trader would be less liable to (/>. ^jp) be pillaged,' and the Indians would be deterred froiu practicing aggres- sion ; for when the Indians once become convinced that in consequence of having practiced violence upon the persons or property of the traders, they have been cut off from all intercourse with those posts, and cannot resort to any other places to obtain merchandise, then they will make any sacri- fice to regain the privilege they previously enjoyed. I am confident that, in order to regain our favor in such cases, they would sacrifice any individual who may be the object of our displeasure, even should he be their favorite chief ; for their thirst of merchandise is paramount to every other considera- i .( : f ?! 1240 ESSAY ON AN INDIAN POLICY. U i. tion, and the leading individuals among them, well know- mg this trait in the character of their own people, will not venture to encourage or excite aggressions on the whites, when they know they are themselves to become the victims of its consequences. But if, on the other hand, these commercial establishments are not general, and we suffer detached and insulated mer- chants, either British or American, to exercise their own dis- cretion in settling down where they may think proper on the western branches of the Mississippi, for the purposes of trad- ing with the Indians; then, though these commercial estab- hshmcnts may be so extended as to embrace the Missouri quite to the Mandans, still they will lose a great part of their effects ; because the roving bands of Tetons and the most dissolute of the Sioux, being denied permission to trade on the Missouri at any rate, would resort to those establish- ments on the Mississippi, and thus become independent of the trade of the Missouri, as they have hitherto been. To correct this, we have three alternatives : First, to establish two commercial posts in this quarter. Secondly, to pro- hibit all intercourse with the Sisitons and other bands of Sioux, on the St. Peter's and Raven's-wing ' rivers, informing those Indians that such prohibition has been the conse- quence of the malconduct of the Tetons, and thus leaving it to the former to correct the latter. (/. 460) Thirdly, to make an appeal to arms in order to correct the Tetons ourselves. Impressed with a belief, unalloyed with doubt, that the ardent wish of our government has ever been to conciliate the esteem and secure the friendship of all the savage nations within Its territory by the exercise of every consistent and pacific measure in its power, applying those of coertion [sic] only in the last resort, I here proceed, with due defer- " Also formerly CrowWing or Crow-wing river, now Crow river ; first con- siderable stream from the west above St. Peter's or the Minnesota river, running for some distance between Wright and Hennepin counties, Minn., and falling into the Mississippi at Dayton. See " Raven Wing R." on Lewis' map of i8o6 N 1 ESSAY ON AN INDIAN POLICY. 1241 ence to better judgment, to develop a scheme which has suggested itself to my mind as the most expedi(-nt that I can devise for the successful consummation of our philanthropic views toward those wretched people of America, as well as to secure to the citizens of the United States all those advan- tages which ought of right exclusively to accrue to them from the possession of Upper Louisiana.' The situation of the Indian trade on the Missouri and its waters, while under the Spanish government. The exclusive permission to trade with nations. The giving by those exclusions the right to individuals 'What follows is evidently mere memoranda, on the basis of which the lamented Lewis intende.l to develop his Indian policy. These fragments how- ever, are preserved, as they should be. They represent a sort of index to what has preceded, and may have been the original heads for the foregoing Essay I have never seen any manuscript of this article, and know nothing more about U than the reader himself may gather from the printed pages. There is nothinc o the sort m all the 3,056 folios of the 30 codices in my hands. As to the date of the composition, this is certainly within a year after September, 1806 for ia one place the author speaks of his descending the Missouri "last fall " I sup pose the article to have been an officia report to the President, or to the govern- ment, either by the Captau, Lewis whom we now know so well, or by the Governor Lewis of whom we have learned so little. Should the original MS be extant, it might be found in the archives of the State Departn.ent. or other govl ernmental bureau ; I found nothing like it among the documents I was permitted to mspect m the War Department. If ever discovered it will be found in Lewis' handwrumg-there is no mistaking the singularly involved syntax and diffuse style, to which I adverted, without animadversion, in note 'o p 260 y z, I have edited it very nearly as it stands in the Diddle edition, without recasting a smgle sentence, though not without a touch here and there, in a mere matter of grammar. Aside from any question of its form, however faulty and evidently unhnished, ,ts substance is simply admirable. It is clear in statement of facts and cogent m the conclusions deduced from those facts. It depicts evils already existent, and foresees abuses that would ensue, unless the corrective were applied But the lesson was lost, as anyone but an enthusiast might have predicted it would be ; and from the day that Lewis and Clark gave the Indians into the hands of the government, as in some sense the wards of the nation, the policy of the United States has invariably been the most iniquitous that could possibly be earned into effect-and likewise the silliest, because the most expensive, both in blood and money. ^^■1 m i 'mmm ■HOT 1242 ESSAY ON AN INDIAN POLICY. ';•-; M to furnish supplies, which rendered the Indians independent of the government. The times of sending goods to the Indians, and of return- ing to St. Louis ; the necessity of giving credits ; therefore the disadvantages of [the samej. The time to which licenses will extend. The evils which grew out of the method pursued by the Spaniards, as well to themselves as to the Indians. The independence of individuals of their own government The dependence of the Indians on those individuals, and their consequent contempt for the government, and for all other citizens, whom they plundered and murdered at pleas- ure. The present rapacity of the Indians, owing to this cause aided also by the system of giving credits to the Indians' which caused contentions among the traders, which termi' nated by giving the Indians a contempt for the character of the whites. (/. 461) The permission to persons to hunt on Indian lands productive of many evils, the most frequent causes of war, hostile to the views of civilizing and of governing the Indians. The first principle of governing the Indians is to govern the whites ; the impossibility of doing this without estab- lishments, and some guards at those posts. The Sisitons may be made a check on the Tetons by withholding their trade on the Mississippi. Having stated the several evils which flowed from the Spanish system, I now state the Indian character, the evils which still exist, and what they will probably terminate in if not redressed ; the plan recommended to be pursued and the benefits which may be expected to result therefrom • conclude thus : it may be pretty confidently believed that it IS not competent to produce the wished-for reform amone the Indians. Hunters permitted in the Indian country pernicious ; fre- quent cause of war between us. ■■■■■■ by the ESSAY ON AN INDIAN POLICY. 1243 Some of the stipulations of the licenses granted the traders, in application to the state of the Indians on the Missouri, of course not attended to. The incompetency of the Indian agents to see that any of the stipulations are complied with. Whisky or ardent spirits may therefore be introduced, and other corruptions practiced, without our knowledge. There is not at present allowed by law to the superintendent of Indian affairs any discretionary powers, by which he can prohibit our newly acquired citizens of Louisiana, who may be disaffected to our government, from trading with the Indians. The law says that any citizen of the United States who can give sufficient security for the sum of $500 for the faithful compliance with the stipulation of his license shall be permitted to trade. An instance has happened in Mr. Robideau, etc.* * The preceding observations of Captain Lewis, although left in an unfinished state, are too important to be omitted. The premature death of the author has prevented his filling up the able outline that he has drawn. (Original note.) i :l! fre- 'I iH U' ^1 ■/. If li ' II- till' APPENDIX II. ESTIMATE OF THE WESTERN INDIANS. [By Captains Lewis and Clark.] .hfJ!"'r"'f! '"''"''■" explanation in several particulars. I am fortunately able to elucdate .ts scope and aim, both of which, if I may judge by the com! ments of ethnographers, have not always been clearly understood, i. In the fit P^ace It must be remembered that while Lewis and Clark were wintering at Fort Mandan.m .804-5. they collected what information they could abc^ t e Indians, besides what they had discovered for themselves in ascending the Mis! sour,, and embodied it all in a communication to President Jefferson, dispatched ^.th other papers, etc.. by the barge, April 7th, 1805 : see p. 258. Jefferson's to :Zl TT°' ^''- '''''' ^'°'' ~-P--cl by this ciributi , to ethnology, which, as printed, became the " Statistical View " so often cited subTe'ct"'?^" v"'" r '"'".''-";/" -^^'-- - -'-t I have had to say on the Mibject The View originally appeared as a State Paper, was reprLed in RiXiImiir' '''" '" f^''"'? ^'" ''°^)^^ ^" •"'^•^-^-' "f the gem n lical ntrn f". ^^-^^^''g-at-ed as the " Apocrypha." (See the Bibliogra- phical Introduction. a„U.i, for particulars of this bookseller's trick.) Now it is a remarkable fact that from the time Lewis and Clark left the M ndans t ley .^ ShoZn: c"' T '"'T '" ^^'^'^'" ^^^'^ ^■S'^''^" " "- ^-- '--mi" 806 the F T;- ^^- " •'• ''°' ■ "^ P- '''■ '''' ^^°"^ tha' '-- ""'il July. 1806. the Expedition was m constant an.l close relations with the Indi.ans al along their route. These are the '< IF^sUrn" In.Iians of the above caption- th t ,s, the Indians west of the main divide of the Rocky mountains, witi whom he Expedition came in contact, or concerning whom Lewis and CI rk had aZ nformation. Ihus it is clear that the present " Estimate of the Western V ew"\ '' r 7':""''^''°" "f. «•• -ther a supplement to. the earlier " Statistical I I 7 "^ ' '"'' °^ '^'^"^"^ °^ t''^ tribes treated at greater or less length m foregoing pages. It is to be compared especially with the ethnoloHcal matter running pp 756-762. as to some extent it duplicates that ; and it cat. o be said, on the whole, to add much to what we have learne.l passun from going pages of the present work. It is nevertheless a valuable summary, and I obs rve Its convenience for some ethnographers who hare never taken the rouble o discover all that L. and C. have to s..y of the tribes here epitomised To acihta e matters in this respect, I make the required back-references, and add a ew no es. I he names will very often be found to differ in spelling, s I adh re scrupulously to my rule of preserving all the varying orthographies of the L. and "44 I ESTIMATE OF THE WESTERN INDIANS. 1245 I fortunately by the coni- . In the first !ring at Fort I about tlie ng the Mis- , dispatched JcfTerson's contribution often cited I say on the eprinted in he genuine ie dishonest i IJibliogra- Now it is ndans tliey horseman " until July, Indians all ca])tion — with whom k had any e Western Statistical ter or less hnological it cainiot from fore- ary, and I lie trouble i/.ed. To and add a i I adhere he L. and C. proper names. In the Biddle edition the Estimate occupied pp. 471-476, being separated from Lewis' Essay on an Indian Policy by the Summary Statement. I change the sequence of these two jneces to bring the Indian matters together! Also, in the Hiddle edition the Estimate was in an awkward semi-tabular formi which I reset in ordinary paragraphs. The list as " prepared for the press " was in the most dire confusion, which I do not think any editor's or printer's skill could now do away with, unless the whole were run into another form. The numbering of the tribes was either at random or too occult for comprehension. Item : certain heads and subheads were introduced which by no means divided and subdivided the matter of the Estimate in the manner which the authors in- tendeil, but had exactly the opposite typographical effect. In such a slough of despond, I have simply tried my best to i)ring about an appearance of order, but am prepared to take the consequences of rashly attempting an impossibility. 2. As to the date and authorship of the Estimate : by note », p. 1042, it is seen tliat this article was originally drafted in June, iSt^i-or more probably an original draft was regarded as then complete.l, when the Expedition was in camp on Quamash tlats, after their month at Camp Chopunnish. This MS. draft, or a copy of it, is now on pp. 147-155 of Codex I, as stated in my article on 'the codices in I'roc. Amer. Thilos. Soc. xxxi. Mar. 7th, 1893, p. 25. Hut this draft, in C aptain Clark's hand, was not printed. It w.as afterward canceled as a whole by Captain, more probably by General, Clark, who notes across p. 150 of it, in red ink : "The estimate of the Nations and tribes West of the Rocky Moun- tains May be Seen More Correctly in a Supplemnt accompanying these [Red] I'x.oks WC 80.CXX) Soles "—whence it is evident tliat Mr. Biddle went to press with the Estimate from copy later revised by General or Governor Clark, no doubt after (jovcrnor Lewis' death in 1809. This revised manuscript I have never seen, and fear that it may not have been preserved. It probably went the usual way of printer's copy that has been put through the mill. And here I may remark further, that F have never seen a line of the Hiddle copy from which Bradford & Inskeep set this book ; and that assuredly not one of the 3,056 codicean folios ever saw the inside of a printing-office. Under all the circ'um- stances, I do not hesitate to ascribe the Estimate to actual joint-authorship, though the form in which we have it is as it finally came from the hands of one of our authors alone.] (/. 4.yi) I. Shoshonee nation,' 60 lodges, 300 persons, reside in spring and summer on the west [read eastPJ fork of Lewis' river, a branch of the Columbia, and in winter and fall on the Missouri. ' That is, one certain tribe of the Shoshone nation, numbering and residing as said. See several more " Shoshonee (or Snake Indians)," enumerated beyond. Who these Indians were, and where the "west fork of Lewis' river " is, are occult n.atters. But probably the Indians here implied are our old friends of the Lemhi and Salmon rivers, as these are nowhere else accounted for in the Estimate. If so, see pp. 554 seq. See also Nos. 67-70, beyond. I . 1 1^ ;ll,i. (i 'i % /■■¥' ■ ;i>Si ^ ,,, .,!■ ,| (- 'i.r M' 'a'l ■■:! 1246 ESTIMATE OF THE WESTERN INDIANS. 2. Ootlashoot tribe of the Tushshepah nation, 33 lodges 400 persons, reside in spring and summer in the RockJ mountains on Clark's river, in winter and fall on the Mis^ souri and its waters. [See note '», p. 582. and note ", 3. [A band of the] Chopunnish nation, 33 lodges, 2,000 persons, residing on the Kooskooskee river, below the forks, and on Colter's [Potlatch] creek; and who sometimes pass over to the Missouri. [See note ", p. 988 ] 4. Pelloatpallah band of Chopunnish, 33 lodges, 1,600 persons, reside on the Kooskooskee above the forks, and on the small streams which fall into that river, west of the Rocky mountains and Chopunnish river, and sometimes pass over to the Missouri. [See note ■', p. 1070 ] 5. Kimooenim^ band of Chopunnish nation, 33 lodges 800 persons, reside on Lewis' river above the entrance of the Kooskooskee, as high up that river as the forks re^iJ'^T ^T"" "^ Chopunnish, 33 lodges, 250 persons, reside under he southwest mountains, on a small rive [Asotin creek] which falls into Lewis' river above the entrance of the Kooskooskee, which they call Weaucum [See note \ p. 1038.] reside'rr'' '"f f Chopunnish, 33 lodges, 500 persons, reside on a nver of the same name' which discharges into Lewis river on the S.W. side, below the forks of that river 8. Soyennom band of Chopunnish, 33 lodges. 400 per- ' A remarkable codex-map, never published, which must be adduced in th. present connection, occupies Clark M x, .. It is a rude sketch, mai ^ on C' -P " n.sh I„d,an mformation (.. ,,., p. ,,e), but has some important points abet it" map of 1814) the Kemooen.m Nation " is located on Lewis' river just above the mouth of th.s creek, and the " Wellelatpo Nation," /. .., the V^Hetno .hi:;::od2^p:ij ;i"'^.:::r?;;:r\f-\-p - ^^- -^^ fir.f 1 1 , , , ^"'^ •''tne Grande Ronde river (see n 6221 the first large branch of the Snake or Lewis' river s of the Blue mountainf' Soj ennom .s a new name, concerning wh. .h I have nothing to ofler, except \<^^^ ESTIMATE OF THE WESTERN INDIANS. 1247 33 lodges, the Rocky n the Mis- id note ", Iges, 2,000 below the sometimes ges, 1,600 !cs, and on ;st of the times pass 53 lodges, nee of the > persons, nail river bove the Veaucum. ) persons, rges into hat river. 400 per- !uced in the on Chopun- ts about it. s on Clark's ■ just above i Willetjio, ! next para- s a name of '35- 1814, with '. 622), the itains. der, except sons, reside on the N. side of the east fork [Salmon river] of Lewis' river, from its junction to the Rocky mountains, and on Lamaltar creek. 9. Chopunnish of Lewis* river, 40 lodges, 2,300 persons, reside below the entrance of the Kooskooskec, on either side of that river to its junction with the Columbia. [See p. 624.] 10. Sokulk nation, 120 lodges, 2,400 persons, reside on the Columbia above the entrance of Lewis' river, as high up as the entrance of Clark's river. [See pp. 637-639.] 11. Chimnahpum, 42 lodges, 1,860 persons, reside on the N.W. side of the Columbia, both above and below the entrance of Lewis' river, and on the Tapteel river, which falls into the Columbia 15 miles above Lewis' river. [See note ", p. 537, note '°, p. 641, and note ", p. 973.] (A 472) 12. Wollawollah nation, 46 lodges, 1,600 persons, reside on both sides of the Columbia from the entrance of Lewis' river as low as the Muscleshell rapid, and in winter pass over to the Tapteel river. [See note '', p. 606, p. 645, and p. 967 seq?^ 13. Pishquitpahs nation, 71 lodges, 2,600 persons, reside on Muscleshell rapid, and on the N. side of the Columbia to the commencement of the high country; this nation winter on the waters of the Tapteel river. [See pp. 966, 967.] 14. Wahowpum nation, 33 lodges, 700 persons, reside on the north branch of the Columbia, in different bands from the Pishquitpahs, as low as the river Lepage ; the different bands of this nation winter on the waters of Tapteel and Cataract rivers. [See note '", p. 964.] 15. Eneshure nation, 41 lodges, 1,200 persons, reside at that it is So-yen-um on the codex-map, M 2, and that these Indians are there charted on the north side of Salmon river, near its mouth. " Lamaltar " creek is likewise a new name ; it is so on the codex-map ; and it is charted by Clark, 1814, unlettered, as the first tributary of Salmon river, falling in from the north. According to this indication it corresponds to the small stream now known as China creek ; but it might be meant for one of several others, as Waphilla, Mahoney, etc. i I!-! i ■■ I > » ' 1248 ESTIMATE OF THE WESTERN INDIANS. the upper part of the Great narrows of the Columbia on either side ; are stationary. [See note ", p. 672.] 16. Eskeloot nation, 21 lodges, 1,000 persons, reside at the upper part of the Great narrows of the Columbia; on the N. side is the great mart for all the country. [See note , p. 672, and note ", p. 922.] 17. Chilluckittequaw nation, 32 lodges, 1,400 persons, residing next below the narrows, and extending down on the N side of the Columbia to the river Labiche. [See note , p. 673.] L 18. Smockshop band of Chilluckittequaws, 24 lodges, 800 persons, reside on the Columbia, on each side of the en- trance of the river Labiche, to the neighborhood of the great rapids of that river. [See note ", p. 673, and note ", p. 949.] 19. Shahala nation, 62 lodges, 2,800 persons, reside at the grand rapids of the Columbia, and extend down in different villages as low as the Multnomah river; consist of the fol- owing tribes :Yehuh, above the rapids; Clahclellah, below the rapids ; Wahclellah, below all the rapids ; Neerchokioon one house, 100 lodges, on the S. side, a few miles above the Multnomah river. [Compare note ', p. 1251.] Wappatoo" Indians. 20 Nechacokee tribe, i lodge, 100 persons, reside on the b. side of the Columbia, a few miles below Quicksand river opposite Diamond island. [See note ", p. 922.] 21. Shoto tribe, 8 lodges, 460 persons, reside on the N side of the Columbia, back of a pond nearly opposite the entrance of the Multnomah river. [See note -, p. 916 and note , p. 931.] ^ ^ ' 22. Multnomah tribe, 6 lodges, 800 persons, reside on » This heading ir in the orig. ed., italicized as here. It is " No 20 " and then ^:^uf77 :t ^°' '' ^"^■'"^'- '-^ - "— • ^^^^ o tonT H - A . ""'"^ "' '" ^' '^^^"Sht under the heading " Wanna- too Indians. According to this I break the list between n,y Nos. '32 and ^3 As has been seen, pp. 931, 932, l. and C. use the names " VVanpatoo " and Mulnomah "indifferently for these tribes-a fact which also app'ea in the present place, where several tribes of " Multnomahs" are so specified in the text! 1 * )Iumbia on , reside at umbia; on itry. [See 0 persons, ;• down on :he. [See 3dges, 800 of the en- F the great . P- 949-] iidc at the 1 different if the fol- lah, below chokioon, les above le on the md river, n the N. osite the 916, and eside on >," and then ; is the only g" Wajijia- 32 and 33. patoo " and lears in the in the text. ESTIMATE OF THE WESTERN INDIANS. 1249 Wappatoo island in the mouth of the Multnomah; the re- mains of a large nation. [See p. 933.] 23. Clannahqueh tribe of Multnomahs, 4 lodges, 130 per sons, reside on Wappatoo island, below the Multnomah [See note", p. 916.] 24. Nemalquinner tribe of Multnomahs, 4 lodges 200 persons, reside on the N.E. side of the Multnomah river 3 mdes above its mouth. [See notes", *% p. 924.] iP- 4-73) 25. Cathlacommatups, a tribe of Multnomahs 3 lodges, 170 persons, reside on the S. side of Wappatoo island on a slur [./.-slough or sluice] of the Multnomah, [bee note*, p. 931.] 26. Cathlanaquiahs, a tribe of Multnomahs, 6 lodges 400 persons, reside on the S.W. side of Wappatoo island [See note^p. 931.] L ^7. Clackstar nation, 2S lodges, 1,200 persons, reside on a small [Scappoose] river which discharges on the S W side of Wappatoo island. [See note", p. 915, and note',* 28. Claninnatas,' 5 lodges, 200 persons, reside on the S.W. side of Wappatoo island. [See note below ] 29. Cathlacumups, 6 lodges, 450 persons, reside on the mam shore, S.W. of Wappatoo island. [See note " n 915.] ' i"- 30. Clannarminnamuns, 12 lodges, 208 persons, reside on the S.W. side of Wappatoo island. [See note ^p. 915I 31. Quathlahpohtle nation, 14 lodges, 900 persons, reside on the S.W. side of the Columbia, above the entrance of Tahwahnahiooks [Lewis'] river, opposite the lower point But L and C. discriminate among these one tribe which they specify as Mult- nomdis most properiy so called, agreeably with the indication given on • This is a name which I do not think occurs elsewhere in the History Its wlZ T 7"^ ?r °' ''' *"'" "^"''°"^<^ ^^ P- 931 as inhabiting Wappa too..sland ,s probably accidental. For I find the " Clah-in-nata - charted by Clark on the codex-map. Lewis K 28. in the position here assigned them in betwet'trS' ••'''' ""' ''^ '^'^"'' •'"'"^'''^'^•y - ^^'"-«"« ^Wi between the Clannarmmnamuns and the Cathlanaquiahs. \ • m i \ , l! Mi » 7 It' ''t] If Vi ■■■ 1250 ESTIMATE OF THE WESTERN INDIANS. Of Wappatoo island. [See note", p. 913, and note", p 914.] ^• 32. Cathlamahs,' 10 lodges, 200 persons, reside on a [Burns?] creek which falls into the Columbia on the N side, at the lower part of the Columbian valley. [See note ' P-93I-] , S3- Skilloot nation, 50 lodges, 2,500 persons, reside on the Columbia, on each side in different villages, from the lower part of the Columbia valley as low as Sturgeon island, and on either side of the Coweliskee river. [See note ' p 602 • also pp. 694, 695.] ' f • y . 34- Hullooellell, , resideace on the Coweliskee. [See note ", p. 911.] 35. VVahkiacums, 11 lodges, 200 persons, reside on the N. side of the Columbia, opposite the Marshy islands. [See note ", p. 700.] 36. Cathlamahs, 9 lodges, 300 persons, reside on the S. side of the Columbia, opposite the Seal islands. [See note ", p. 705.] 37' Chinnooks, 28 lodges, 400 persons, reside on the N side of the Columbia at the entrance of, and on, Chinnook [now Wallacut] river. [See note", p. 710.] 38. Clatsop nation, 14 lodges, 200 persons, reside on the S. side of the Columbia, and a few miles along the S.E. coast, on both sides of Point Adams. [See note *" P-7I7.] 39- Killamucks nation, 50 lodges, 1,000 persons, reside from the Clatsops of the coast along the S.E. coast for many miles. [See note ", p. 744 ; and pp. 75 1. 757. j 'This name is clearly a mistake: observe that it duplicates Cathlamahs below (No 36). I find Cal-la-mah's Tribe " in Clark I 155, with the same census, and location, but canceled. The Indians here meant (No. 32) are doubtless the Cathlahaws of p. 932 : see note «, p. 931. The " creek on the north " on which they lived, is named Cathlahaws creek in the Summary Statement where It IS given as ten miles below Lewis' river and six above the lower point of Deer IS and. The stream nearest to these requirements for position is Burris creek tailing m behind Burke's and Martin's islands. note", p, side on a on the N. [See note ', iide on the the lower sland, and ; ', p. 692 ; ^ee. [See le on the y islands. )n the S. ds. [See )n the N. Chinnook eside on ilong the e note ", is, reside :oast for vnahs below ame census, e doubtless ; north," on fient, where lint of Deer urris creek. ESTIMATE OF THE WESTERN INDIANS. 1251 Indian 1^^ formation: The following nations speak the Killa- muck language.* 40. Lucktons, 20 persons, reside on the seacoast to the b.W. of the Killamucks. [See note '^ p. 758.] 41. Kahuncles, 400 persons, reside on the seacoast S W ot the Lucktons. [See p. 758.] 42. Lukawis, 800 persons, reside on the seacoast to the o.b.t.. ; large town. [See note '*, p. 758.] 43. Youikcones, 700 persons, reside on the seacoast to the b.b.b.; large houses. [See note ", p. 758.] 44^ Neeketoos, 700 persons, reside on the seacoast to the b.b.h.. ; large town. [See note ", p. 759.] 45. Ulseahs, 150 persons, reside on the seacoast to the b.b.b. ; small town. [See note ", p. 759.] 46. Youitts, 150 persons, reside on the seacoast to the o.b.h.. ; small town. [See note", p. 759. j (A 474) 47- Sheastuckles, 900 persons, reside on the sea- coast to the S.E. of the Lucktons ; large town. [See note " P- 759-] 48. Killawats, 500 persons, reside on the seacoast to the S.E. of the Lucktons ; large town. [See note '», p. 759.] , 49- Cookkoo-oose nation, 1,500 persons, reside on the sea. coast to the S. of the Killawats. [See note ", p. 760.] 50. Shallalah" nation, 1,200 persons, reside on the same course to the S. « This italicized heading is in the orig. ed., but how many tribes it was intended to cover we are left to find out. For the first tribe under it had^ separate number (No. 27) and then there were no more numbers to the Cook- koo-oose (No. 2 ). after which there were no more numbers tc che next heading tweeTthe '/, r ?"^ \\ ^- ''°' "' ''''°''' ''''' "^ "' '° d^'^- the line be! ween the K.llawats and the Cookkoo-oose, which I accordingly do. This head. he h^:! " 7T] "' """■ "^'' '"^'"^'^•^- '"'''"^ regard'to'the statement of the headmg that these nine tribes speak the Killamuck language : see note -. p. 760. The I.st ,s substantially a duplicate of that given on pp. 758, 750 Owmg to the similarity of this name. "Shallalah," and '•Shahala." No. 10- both being spelled m several interchangeable ways-the two have becon^ entirely confounded ; and I have been led into error in my note " p 761 tTc M J .1 i \ III. Ft-^i if 1 i' i " '■ I ■ni« || !> f! :i" 1252 ESTIMATE OF THE WESTERN INDIANS. 51. Luckkarso nation, r 200 persons, reside on the same course to the S. [See note", p. ;6i.J 52. Hannakallal nation, 600 persons, reside on the same course to the S. [See note", p. 761.] [/ti^ian information :\ Indians along the N. W. coast '» _ 53- Killaxthocles tribe, 8 lodges, 100 persons, reside on the seacoast from the Chinnooks to the N.N.W. [See note " p. 76 1. J *■ ' 54. Cliiltz nation. 38 lodges, 700 persons, reside from the Kiilaxthokles along the N.N.W. coast. [See note'" o 717 and p. 761.] ' ^' ' '' , 55- Clamoctomichs, 12 lodges, 260 persons, reside from the Chiltz along the N.N.W. coast. [See note'" p 761 ] ^^; l^^T^]'\ '° ^°''^''' ^°° P^''^^"^' '^"^^^ o" the same coast N.W. of the Clamoctomichs. [See n<.tc ", p. 762.] 57- Pailsh tribe, 10 lodges, 200 persons, reside from the Fotoash on the N.W. coast. [See note '\ p. 762.] 58. Quiniilts, 60 lodges, 1,000 persons, reside from the Padsh along the N.W. coast. [See note ", p. 669, and note ^ p. 702.J 59- Quieetsos, 18 lodges, 250 persons, reside from the Qu.nults along the N.W. coast. [A Salishan tribe, now known as Quait:.o.] 60. ChilLntcs, 8 lodges, 150 persons, reside from tne guieetsos along the N.W. coast. [See note" p 762 ] r.^n .^"^T^x^'l"' '° ^^'^^'^ '°° P'^''^^"^' '■e'^'de from the Chillate N.W. along the same coast. [See note ", p. 762.] Indians there meant by L. and C. are these of No. 50, and not those of No in I^o. so. This explanation, which accentuates the fact of error, mav belter se^rve to prevent Us recurrence in future, than if I had simply deleted my forni:: -This italicized heading can be in.erred to extend to my No. 62 inclusive because m the ong. ed. the first tribe me ioned under it. Killaxthocks Ld a number (No 29), and then there .ere no more number to the Clart; u.s nation ( o. 30). Accordingly I draw the line between my Nos. 63 Ind 6 a Su^Hcte '' ""' ''• '''' '''' °' ^^'''^'^ ''" P'^^^"' '"^^ '^ substantially 1 the same the same coast.^" reside on 5cc note ", from the 90 • .P-717, side from X 761.] the same . 762.] from the from the id note", from the fibe, now rom tne 52.] from the ). 762.] '■ of No. 19, le Shahala.s, lialialahs of may belter my former 2 inclusive, hocks, had Clarkanuis 62 and 63. ibstantially ESTIMATE OF THE WESTERN INDIANS. 1253 62. Quinnechart nation, 2,000 persons, reside on the sea- coast and creek, N. and N.W. of the Calasthocles. [See note ", p. 762.] ^ ■■I! 63. Clarkamus nation, 1,800 persons, reside on a laree river of the same name whicli heads in Mount Jefferson and discharges into the Multnomah, 40 miles up that river on its W.i.. side; this nation has several villages on either side. Lbce note ", p. 924.J 64. Cushhooks nation, 650 persons, reside on the N E bank of the Multnomah, mimediately below the fall, of that river, about 60 miles above its entrance into the Columbia [bee note ", p. 921.] 65. Charcowah nation, 200 persons, reside on the S W bank of the Multnomah, immediately above the fMls- thev take salmon in that river. [See note ', p. 931.] ' 66. Callahpoewah nation, 2,000 persons, inhabit the country on both sides of the Multnomah, above the Charco- wahs for a great extent. [See note ^ p. 932 ] ^ 67. Shoshonee - (or Snake Indians), 3,000 persons, residing m winter and fall on the Multnomah river, southwardly ot the (/. ^75) southwest mountains, and in spring and summer on the heads of the Towanahiooks [Des Chutes], ■' To the Shoshones here indicated add those noted at No. i. The present account ,s ma.nly upon Indian, information of tribes which L. and C never saw and hardly furnishe. data for useful comment. It does not agree at all W 1 r^ caa tedon Clark s nap. Exammation of the latter will show " about lo.ooo Souls on upper reaches of the Multnomah ; 2,000 about the headwaters of the Des Chutes ; 4,000 along Snake river and several .,f its main branches (as indica ed tlesU:^/. Sh°' 'i;'"'t T'"' '"^'^ ^"'^- --^-■^>s"onhead;: tetof he Snake; .Shoshones 800 Souls " on the Lemhi and Salmon river ; a certain band of 600 souls on headwaters of .Madison river ; and •' Yeppe Ban. of S al^: Luis xooo .Souls about the upper Yellowstone. The " Shoblrboobeer " band! of the word, two of which occur on p. 554: see note ", p. 840. For the modem classihcation of the Shoshone.an family, see note 3, p. 477. ■ < I 'ff. ! f '^ Mi 1 1 -I ,. lt.ii 'Jl!! 1254 ESTIMATE OF THE WESTERN INDIANS. 1^.1 Page [Lepage J, Yaumalolam [Vumatilla], and Wolla- wollah nvcrs, and more abundantly at the falls of the lowanahiook-s, for the purpose of fishing. 68. Shoshonees. 6,000 persons, reside on the Multnomah and Its waters; the residence of whom is not well known to user to the Indians of the Columbia. 69. Shobarboobeer band of Shoshonees, 1,600 persons res.de on the S.W. side of the Multnomah river, high up the said river. ^ ;o. Shoshonees, 3,000 persons, reside on the south fork o Lewis river, and on the Nemo. VValshlemo, Shallettc, Shushpellammmo. Shecomshink, Timmoonumlarwas, and Copcoppakark rivers, branches of the south fork of Lewis' river. ' '« The seven branches of the main Snake river are easily identified by reference o Clark s n,ap of 1814. NVe also have the oriKinal sketch, upon cl,punnish Indmn .nformat.on on Clark M 3, and the basis of the printed'para.ra ,h i on b rV '?;• "k'"" '''' ' ""'•^ '''' ''^"''^^""S ^'-^terminatiois of tl e scv" branches, ak.ng them up in their reverse on.cr. from above downward on l" Snake and then add.ng the lower branches charted by Clark as far down as 1 e Kooskooskee: I Copcoppakark of the text; Copcoppahark. I 153 ; Cop-cop- hah-ark. M 2 ; Cop pop.pah-ash of the pub. map. This is lioise river on wS rs Bo.se Cty Ada Co.. Idaho. 2. Timmoonumlarwas of the text ; 'rimmole num.larwas I ,53; Tim-moo-e-num. M 2; Tim-mo-a-men of the pub. mZ Th>s ,s Owyhee nver. falling into the Snake opposite Boise river, in Malheur Co Oregon. 3. Shecomshink of the text; She-com-shenk.I 153 ; She-cam-skink." M 2 , She-com-shenk of the pub. map. This is .Malheur river. Oregon allng ,n near Payette river. 4. Shushpellanimmo of the text; s.ame o I 153 , Sh„rk-pal.h.a-n,m-mo. M 2; Shush-pel-la-mine-mo of the pub. map Th,s .s the Payette r.ver. Idaho, falling into the Snake in Ada Co. 5 Shalletfe of the text ; Shallett I 153 ; name illegible. .M 2 ; no name on tlJpub. ma^ bu see"Shalett L." there. This Shalett hke. given .as "2 lakes " on h^ codex.map, ,s Payette lake ; and the river flowing from it. i. e., Shallette river ^ub man TH 7 °' ''" '''" = ''''^'^''""' ' ^". Walsh-le-mo. M 2 and pub. map Th,s,s Burnt nver, Baker Co.. Oregon, although Clark brings it in above >nstead of below h,s Nemo (Weiser) river. 7. Nemo of the text I 153 M 2, and pub. map. This is Weiser river. Washington Co.. Idaho. 8. Con- tmuing down the Snake, on the Oregon side, M 2 and pub. map have a Flint sTJ; " TTt ^"f""" '^'' '°'"" ""'''''' ^""^^'- "^^'■. b"' ^eems too Zh 'p .";, '.'f ^''"■P"'-''' "^'-''■- ^^'"^ '^^ ^'•'^-•^ Ta-nin-pa; pub. map has Port-pel-lar wuh its branch Ta-kin-par. This corresponds in rdative nd Wolla- ills of the 'lultnomah I known to 0 persons, r, high up ;outh fork Shallette, rwas, and of Lewis* 1 by reference Chopunnish rat;rai)h is on of the seven nward on the ■ down as tlie 3 ; Cop-cop- 'er, on which ; Timmooe- 2 pub. map. klalheur Co., e-cam-skink, 'er, Oregon, t ; same of 5 pub. map. 5. Shallette e pub. map, arfso/f/ie/o//ozvi;'i^ tribes at the long narroivsr 71. Skaddal.s nation, 200 persons, reside on Cataract river 25 miles N. of the Jiig narrows. 72. Squannaroos. 120 persons, reside on fhc Cataract river below the Skaddals. 73. Shallattoos, 100 persons, reside on the Cataract river above them. ' 74- Shanvyappoms, 400 persons, reside on the heads of Cataract and lapteel rivers. m 75. Cutsahn.m ' nation, 60 lodges, 1,200 persons, reside on both sides of the Columbia above the Sokulks, on the north- ern branches of the Tapteel river, and on the Wahnaachee [vVenatchee] river. 76. Lahanna nation, 120 lodges, 2,000 persons, reside on both sides of the Columbia river, above the entrance of Clark s river. 77- Coospellar nation, 30 lodges. 1,600 persons, reside on a river which falls into the Columbia, to the N. of Clark's river. v..«ir.3 "^ T^^^l T'^'F'T "^^ • '''^^'"'' »'"' '•" ^1'°^^"'- t- '-ge. Never, hel ss. I hmk Nos. Sand 9 really represent the two streams named a, out nght ,n relafve position, but reversed in relative si^e. Passing a smLTstr an unnamed by Clark, on the Idaho side, we have next : 10. Inllr 3 ^ Ihis ital.uzed head covers only the four following tribes, Nos 71-7. cataract (Kl.k tat) nver.by the names Ska-ddals.Squanrra-roos, Shal-lat-tos and Chanwappan, but the figures for the census are variant. The; are th Lro'ul into relation with the Klikitats, a Shahaptian tribe. ^ '^Charted by Clark by this name and located on the " Columbia " just above he entrance of Clark's fork. So the charted location of the Cutsah;im t on the Okenagan river, not the ' ' Columbia. " It a i 1 If $ ii i'f i\' •I 1 1 If. 1, 1256 ESTIMATE OF THE WESTERN INDIANS. 78. Wheelpo" nation, 130 lodges, 2,500 persons, reside on both sides of Clark's river, from the entrance of the Lastaw to the great falls of Clark's river. 79. Hihighenimmo'" nation, 45 lodges, 1,300 persons, reside from the entrance of the Lastaw into Clark's river, on both sides of the Lastaw, as high as the forks. 80. Lartielo " nation, 30 lodges, 600 persons, reside at the falls of the Lastaw river, below the great Wayton lake, on both sides of the river. 81. Skeetsomish nation, 12 lodges, 2,000 persons, reside on a small river of the same name which discharges into the Lastaw below the falls, around the Wayton lake, and on two islands within the said lake. [See note '", p. 990.] 82. Micksucksealton '" tribe of the Tushshepah, 25 lodges, 300 persons, reside on Clark's river, above the great falls of that river, in the Rocky mountains. (A 47^) 83- Hohilpos,'" a tribe of the Tushshepah, 25 lodges, 300 persons, reside on Clark's river, above the Mick- sucksealtons, in the Rocky mountains. 84. Tushshepah nation, 35 lodges, 430 persons, reside on a north fork of Clark's river in spring and summer, and in the fall and winter on the Missouri. The Ootlashoots are a band of this nation. [See note '", p. 582, and note ", p. 583.] Whole number of Indians west of the Rocky mountains, 80,000. "Whe-elpo Nation," codex-map M i, located immediately below the falls of "Clark's river," i. t\, of the upper Columbia, apparently Kettle falls, near Kettle river and Fort Colville ; " Whe-el-po T. 3500 Souls " cf the 1814'map. The " Lastaw "river of the text, heretofore L;ivenas Lautaw river, is the Latah : see notes ''\ ", pp. ggo, 991. '" " Hi-hi-e-mim-o N.," codex-map Mi; " He-high-e-nim-mo 1500 Souls," on the 1814 map, where located on " Clark's river," /. e., on the Columbia near the entrance of the Latah (meaning the Spokane) river. '^So on the codex map ; " Lar-li-e-lo 900 Souls " of the 1814 map, located about Spokane falls. '«'' Mick-suck-seal-tom," Clark I 152 and map of 1814 ; " Mick-suck-seeal- ton," codex-map M i, located at cl-.e confluence of Great Lake river with Clark's river, and therefore at the entrance of the latter into the Columbia proper. ""Ho-hil-po"and "Ilo-yeal-po," codex-map Mi; "Ilohilpo 600 Souls," map of 1814, where located on a river of the same name. i-|-i:|,?' APPENDIX III. :|1 i.vic SUMMARY STATEMENT. Summary Statement of the rivers, creeks, and other notable places, their distances from .,rh other and fron, the Mississippi, up the Missouri, across the^Rock; mount s and Zne C.olumb.a to tl,e Paofic. as explored in the years :8o4-5-6. by Captains Lewis and Oark Names of Remarkable Places. Village of St. Charles Osage-woman'= river Charrette's village and creek. Shepherd's creek • • • • • Gasconade river [Big] M uddy river Grand Osage river Murrow [Moreau] creek ......[...... Cedar island and creek Leadmine hill [Little] Manitoii creek Splitrock creek Saline, or Salt river [Big] Manitou river Go(jd\vonian's river Mine river Arrow prairie First Charleton [Charaton] river Second do. Ancient village of the Missouri nation near which place Fort Orleans stood Grand river ' Snake cnek Ancient village of the Little Osages! .. .. . Tigers' [or Panther] island and creek. .... Hubert's [Eau beau] island and creek " Fire-prairie creek Fort Point Haycabin creek \[ Coalhank [La Charbonniere] ...............' Bluewater river Kanzas river iaS7 «5 j: U = 3 N.E, N.E. N.E. S.W. s.w. N.E. S.W. S.W. N.E. S.W. S.E. N.E. S.E. N.E. N.E. S.W. S.W. N.E. N.E. N.E. N.E. N.E. S.W. N.E. S.W. s, w. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. ■n 30 20 157 50 397 20 20 20 20 30 30 35 70 30 70 go 18 25 20 30 230 fi C ('i n ^ V 21 20 27 15 17 15 18 5 7 9 8 8 3 9 9 9 6 14 14 16 4 6 10 20 12 12 6 6 9 10 21 41 63 83 100 "5 133 133 145 154 162 170 173 182 191 200 206 220 220 236 240 246 256 276 288 300 306 312 321 331 340 M ,1 ii' m !->.'A OTi *M 1258 SUMMARY STATEMENT. Names 0/ Remarkable Places. i 1 "■ ! i 1 river Little 4-iver Platte First old Kanzas viilkge KaS^viLr'^"^'"''^"^^'-^^^^^^^ St. Michael's prairie." .'::;; ^"^ Nodawa river Wolf or Loup river. Big Nemaha river. . , Tarkio creek Neeshnabatona river, Little Nemaha river Baldpated prairie (the' Neesiinabatona" within 150 yards of the Missouri) \Veepmgwater creek. . . [Great] nver Piatt or Shoal' river Butterfly or Papillon creek Musquetoe creek Ancient village of the Ot'toes' Ancient village of the Ayaways" Bowyer s [or Ijoyer's] river Council bluffs (establishment')."" boldiers river Eaneahwaudepon (Lit'tie Sioux) Waucarde or Badspirit creek. Around a bend of the river to "the gorge of which is only 974 yards Island 3 miles N.E. of 'thYyaha [Om'a'ha] ;il Floyd's bluff and river. ..".'.' Big Sioux river .... Copperas, cobalt, pyrit^,' an'd alum' bluffs.' " " . w -7°' o^ Burning bluffs ^ "•"• Whttestone river ' ^•'^- '^tSrclee^i^:"'^^'^^'^^'--"^of| River Jacques or [ames' river Calumet bluff (mineral) Ancient fortification, Good island Plum creek Whitepoint [Whi'te-pa'i'ntj 'cr'ee'k .' ' Quicourre [L'Eau qui Court] river loncar river and village White river Three rivers of the Sioux pass Lower island, in the Big Bend ^"^"^flVl '^' ^'■■^"'^"'^' t'^e goi'ge'of'w'h'ich IS i^ miies Imnn's [Bon Homiiiej I - go. 3. -.S3 u t; « ui 349 ■ill 405 430 450 464 480 4S3 508 516 539 568 600 603 610 62 T 627 638 650 689 733 783 809 836 850 853 880 910 918 938 950 960 976 986 SUMMARY STATEMENT. 1259 Tylor's[or Tyler's] river. .. . Loisel's fort on Cedar island. 1 eton river Upper of five old Rica'ra' villages; "reduced by the Sioux and abandoned . . ^ Chayenne river , Old Ricara village on Lahoocat'i oarwarkarna river. Wetarhoo river First Ricaras villages', on an'is'land'. Second Ricaras three villages. Stone-idol creek VVarreconne river ] [ Cannonball river. ... Chesschetar river near 6 old'lVIandan Villages: Old Ricara and Mandan villages Fort Mandan (wintering post of 1804)' Mandan villages on each side. MnVJ"''!'/"" '"'''"''• '•'^ '^"^ ^linnetaree andi Island, ."^f^"' "*"■" '""^'"^ "^^'' ^h"-' '"O"''^)- Miry river ....". Island in the Little basin. Little Missouri river. ..,,...'." Wild onion creek ..." Goose-egg lake Chaboneau's creek Goatpen creek (Mouse' rVver.waiers of 'lake^Win- nipec near the Missouri) Hall's strand, lake, and creek White-earth river Rochejaune or Yellowstone river Martha's river Porcupine river I-ittledry creek ." o ,., Bigdry creek [ | ^'.Y'" I.ittledry river ' o,\r' Gulf in the Island bend. Milk river Kigdry river Werner's run Pine creek _ i N f Gibson's river j %'%' Brownbear-defeated creek.' .'.".' i c w' Br.ntton's river I M f Burntlodge creek ^l-^' Wiser's creek j '?; V,' Muscleshell river ." .' ' ^;^' (irouse creek i ?; p" North-mountain creek ...'. i m"p" 150 400 10 20 35 40 100 50 40 no 20 30 14 37 30 36 i^ •h (? • ; \ II 'u ^ i ! 'f m 'fcCii i'i 1260 SUMMARY STATEMENT. Names of Remarkable Places. i-g V * •£ CIS ^ o w U 3 3 T3 o." South-mountain creek Ibex island ' _ Goodrich's island ///_ Windsor's creek Elk rapid (swift water) \_[ Thomson's creek Judith's river Ash rapid (swift water) " ' ' ] Slaughter river Stonewall creek, above the natural walls Maria's river Snow river Shifkls's river Portage river (five miles below the ''ireat falls'). S.W. > o C u •S -a ■ - i. rt N.E. N.E. S.W. S.W. N.E. N.E. S.W. S.W. S.W. 30 30 28 100 40 30 186 50 35 45 § 5 >» O rtjy r. s QOO 18 15 9 7 15 27i 4 II 26 4' 19 28 7 -00, = --IS 2354 2369 2378 2385 2400 2427^ 2439 2443 2454 2480 2521 2540 2568 2575 Leaving the Missouri below the falls, and passing by land to the navigable waters of the Columbia river : I- 1 }< ' !■ : Names of Remarkable Places. Entrance of Medicine river Fort mountain (passing through the plain between Medicine river and the ^'issou^i) Focky mountains, to a gap on the ridge, which iivides the waters of the Missouri from those of the Columbia (passing the north part of a ^ mountain and crossing Dearborn's river) I-'ork of ("ohahlarishkit river from the north (pas ing four creeks from the ni)rth) Seaman's creek, from the north ^yerner's creek, from the north East f rk of Clark's river, at the entrance of Cohahlarishkit Clark's river, below the forks Traveller's-rest creek, on the west side of Clark's river, about [above] the forks Forks of Traveller's-rest creek, at a right-hand road Ifot springs on this creek (^uamash glades (passing the head of the creek to a branch of the Kooskooskee) 137 45 20 35 120 150 25 18 15 35 40 7 10 30 18 13 18 33 68 108 115 125 155 167 172 190 203 210 2593 2608 2643 2683 2690 2700 2730 2742 2747 2765 2778 2785 Hi. i£ «■■ £B-5. •too. &>*« >/) = .-■2 s s.^ s c o--::; s.Ka S^f.s 2354 2369 2378 2385 2400 2427^ 2439 2443 2454 2480 2521 2540 2568 2575 s-a £.9- (J !^ yi v ^s^ .i jz a E c — 2593 2608 2643 2683 2690 2700 2730 2742 2747 27f)5 2778 2785 SUMMARY STATEMENT. 1 261 Names of Remarkable Place*. North branch of the Kooskooskee (a left-hand road leads off at five miles) Junction of the roads on the top of a snowy mountain (the left-hand road passing by a fishery; Hungry creek from the right (passing on a divid- ing mountain, covered with deep snow, except on two places, which are open, with a southern exposure, at 8 and 36 miles) Glade on Hungry creel- Glade on a small branch of do Glade on Fish creek Collins' creek Quamash fiats Kooskooskee or Flathead's river I 120 o u hi •3 •o u L, n 6i^ s-s.s -S| ■- « 3 = 0 fm.s s£i S'S-b S Ss Dist one oth Dist the the mil 10 25 7 217 10 227 54 281 6 287 8 2Q5 9 304 13 317 II 328 12 340 e-s. ° a. *j tj a 2792 2802 2856 2862 2870 2S79 2892 2903 2915 Note. In passing from the falls of the Missouri across the Rocky moun- tains to the navigable waters of the Columbia, you have 200 miles of good road and 140 miles of high, steep, rugged mountains, 60 miles of which is covered from 2 to 8 feet deep with snow in the last of June. Remarkable Places, descending the [Kooskoos- kee, Snake, andj Columbia. Entrance of Rockdam creek Chopunnish river Colter's creek Levyis' river, at the entrance of the Kooskooblree Sweathouse village and run Pilot's village Kcmooenim creek Drewyer's river, below the narrows of Lewis' river Cave rapid Basin rapid (bad) Discharge rapid (bad) Columbia river, at the mouth of Lewis' river, from the east Wollawollah river (passed 11 large mat lodges of that nation) Muscleshell rapid (bad), (passed 33 mat lodges of the WollawoUahs) o s! V "■a N. N. N. S. S. N. S. N. S.E. S.E. 20 120 35 200 30 40 2 o< y u " -•£.2 5 37 13 50 23 7 73 80 II 48 91 139 5 28 34 14 144 172 206 220 7 227 16 243 25 268 2923 2928 2965 2988 2995 3006 3054 3059 3087 3I2I 3135 3142 3158 3183 I n, ■i.-i h < !! 1 1 4/ J 1262 SUMMARY STATEMENT. f !< ' 4 Remarkable Places, descending the Columbia. ■3 Pelican rapid (passed 48 lodges of the Pishquitpahs) Twenty-one lodges of the VVahowpums (on 3 islands at the commencement of ihe high country) Short rapid (8 lodges of Wahowpunis. . . . Rocky rapid (9 lodges of the same nation) River La Page (bad rapid) Fishstack rapid (27 lodges of the Ene- shure nation) Towahnahiooks river Great falls of the Columbia, 57* feet 8 inches (near wh\-h are 40 mat lodges of Eneshures) Short narrows, 45 yards wide Skilloot village (21 large wood houses, at the long narrows, 50 ;o j m yards wide) Chilluckittequaw village (3 large wood houses) Cataract river (a few miles l)eIow a vil- lage of 7 houses, and immediately above one of ir houses, of the Chilluckitte- quaws) Sepulchre rock (opposite villajje of Chil- luckittequaws) River Labiche (opposite 26 houses of the Smackshops, scattered on the north side) Little Lake [probably Little White Salmoni creek (3 houses of the Smackshops) Cruzatte's river Grand rapid (just below the village of the Yehuh tribe of the Shahalas, of 14 wood houses Clahclellah village of the Shahalas (near- foot of the rapids ; 7 houses) Wahclellah village of the Shahalas (23 houses, just below entrance of Beacon- rock creek) Z'/i/d' water. Phoca [Seal] rock in the river, 60 feet above water Quicksand river Seal river ] _ Neechaokee village (opp. Diamond island) Shahala village (25 temporary houses). . Multnomah river Multnomah village Quathlahpotle village . .. Tahwahnahiooks [Lewis'] river .'. ..-a N. N. N. N. S. N. S. N. N. N. N. N. N. N. N. N. N. S. N. S. S. S. s. N. N. K O V •a T3 • -* u rt ^ o ^ 40 180 60 46 28 60 120 80 500 200 u u - u rt.2 Q 00 22 l3 27 13 9 10 4 2 4 14 10 4 10 12 II 9 3 4 12 14 6 I U Q *< ,- - 290 308 335 348 357 367 375 379 381 385 399 409 413 422 432 444 450 456 462 473 482 485 489 501 515 521 529 530 C--' 3205 3250 3263 3272 3282 3290 3294 3296 3300 3314 3324 3328 3337 3347 3359 3365 3371 3377 3388 3397 34(X) 3404 3416 3430 3436 3444 3445 rsi SUMMARY STATEMENT. 1263 Cathlahaws [Burris?] creek and village Lower extremity of Elallah or Deer island Cowehskee river (about the entrance, and up this river, the Skilloots reside) fanny's island Sea-otter island .'!!.!.. Upper vilhige of the Wahkiacums. ..'.'..': Cathlamahs villatje (9 large wood houses, S. of Se£.i islands) Point William (opposite Shallow bay)! '. '. Point Meriwether (ab. M -riwether's hay) Clatsop village (below Meriwether's bay 7 miles N.VV. of Fort Clatsop) .' Point Adams, at entrance of the Colum- bia into the Pacific ocean or Great South Sea, lat. 46° 15' N., and long. 124° 57' W. from Greenwich N. S. N. S. S. s. s. 150 13 16 12 6 14 10 9 559 575 587 593 607 617 626 634 3474 3490 3502 3508 3522 3532 3541 3549 3555 Note i. Fort Clatsop is situated on the west side of Netul river 3 miles up the nver from Meriwether bay. and 7 miles east from the nearest part of the seacoast. At this fort Captains Lewis and Clark passed the winter of .805-6 Note 2. The route by which we went out, by the way of the Missouri "to us head, ,s 3,096 miles ; thence by land, by way of Lewis' river, over to Clark's river, and down that river to the entrance of Travel ler's-rest creek, where all the roads from different routes meet, and thence across the rugged part of the Rocky mountains to the navigable waters of the Columbia, is 398 miles ; thence down the nver to the Pacific ocean is 640 miles, making a total distance of 4,134 niiles On our return in 1806. we came from Traveller's-rest creek directl" to the falls of the Missouri river, which shortens the distance about 579 miles a-d is a much better route, reducing the distance from the Mississippi to the Pacific ocean to 3555 miles. Of this distance, 2575 miles is up the Missouri to the falls of that river: thence through the plains and across the Rocky mountains to the navigable waters of the Kooskooskee river, a branch of the Columbia is 340 miles ; 200 miles of which is a good road, 140 miles over a tremendous mountain, steep and broken, 60 miles of which is covered several feet deep with snow, on which we passed the last of June. From the navigable part of the Kooskooskee we descended that rapid river 73 miles to its entrance into Lewis' nver ; went down that river 154 miles to the Columbia, and thence 413 miles to Its entrance into the Pacific ocean. About 180 miles of this distance is tide- water. We passed several bad rapids and narrows, and one considerable fall 263 miles above the entrance of this river, of 37 feet 8 inches. The total dis- tance descending the Columbian waters is 640 miles, making a total of 3 555 miles, on the most direct route from the Mississippi, at the mouth of the Mis- souri, to the Pacific ocean. 'it 11 Hi '' ' \i ; 11 'J ' i.>: "i 6 ■I Ml APPENDIX IV. METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER. Thermometrical observations, showing also the rise and fall of the Mississippi (Missouri)- momcter on the north side of a tree in the woods. ^ ' " "•* "'- ■'»"• '• '^*- ^her. Explanations of the notations of the weather. f. means fair weather. r. means rain. h. means hail. 1. means lightning. c. a. s. means cloudy after snow in- tervening. c. a. r. s. means cloudy after rain and snow. 0. means cloudy. s. means snow. t. means tbunder. a. after, as f. a. r. means fair after rain, which has intervened since the last observation. Notations of the river. r. means risen in the last 24 hours, Bidding at sunriie. f. means fal'en in the last 24 hours, ending at sunrise. a. means above naught. Day of the month. Therm, at sun- rise. 1804 I Deg. Jan 9 10 II 12 Weather. II a. c. c. a. s. f." f. f. h. f. f. f. Notations of thermometer. b. means below naught. Wind. W. W. N.W.W. S.W. S.W. S.W.W. Therm, at four o'clock. Deg. 30 a. lb." Weather. f. f."' f. c. a. r. h f. c. f. Wind. Rive V" •0 1 c N.W.byW. W. W. ... - . ., 1 N.W.W. S.W. S.W. :::::: N.W.byW. '.'.'.\"b . . . 1 . . . 1264 : 't STATION ON DU BOIS OR WOOD RIVER. 1265 Day 0 f Therm at sun 1 Weather Wind. Therm, at (our Weather Wind. River. the .*^ •8 c month rise. o'clock. •0 c C 1804. Deg. Deg. ■ ~— Jan. I 3 .... t .... 1 .... c. s. f. a. s. S.W. r. s. f. S.W. li I' I( J 8 b. £.'"' n!w.' I'i b. f."" N.W K If ! I b. c. N.W.W. I a. f. a. s. N.W.W. Ic ) 13 a. ) 5 b. c. f. N.W. N.W. II a. 8 a. c. c. N.W. N.W. 2C 21 7 a. c. s. N.E. 17 a. s. h. N.E. 22 II a. s. Shifting. 13 a. s. N.W. 23 II a. 4 a. c. c. N.E. N.W. 17 a. II a. c. c. N, W f- 24 25 2 b. f. W.N.W. 16 a. f. W £ • ■ ■ • . • 26 .... c. S.W. c. S.W. f . • • . . • 27 28 5 a. f. c. s. N.W.' 18 a! f. c. s. N.W." 29 16 a. f. W. 23 a. f. 30 22 a. 10 a. c. s. f. N. S.W. byW. 1 6 a. 15 a. f. a. s. f. W. r. ... ... 31 "Feb. I 10 a. f. S.W. 20 a. f. S.W.S. r. 2 12 a. f. N.W. 10 a. f. N.W. r. 3 12 a. 17 a. f. f. S.W. S.W. 19 a. 28 a. f. f. W. s 4 ' 4 5 6 18 a. 19 a. f. f. S.E. N.W. 31 a. 15 a. c. a. {. c. S.E.S. S. r. 2 7 29 a. r. a, c. S.E. 30 a. r. c. S.E. f R 8 22 a. c. a. r. N.W. 20 a. c. a. s. N. r J 9 10 a. f. a. s. N.N.E. 12 a. c. N.E. r. 2 10 3 a. f. N.E. 17 a. f. S.W. r. I 4 II 18 a. c. a. h. S.E. 31 a. s. a, h. S.E. r . I 12 15 a. f. S.S.E. 25 a. f. S.W. f, 2 13 12 a. f. N.W. 20 a. f. W. r. 1 14 15 a. 18 a. 28 a. f. f. c. S.W. S.W. S.E. 32 a. 32 a. 30 a. f. f. c. a. r. S.W. W. S.E. 1 * 1 15 , 16 r. ?\ 17 15 a. c. a. r. S.W. 32 a. f. W. r 2 18 10 a. f. N.W. 19 10 a. 10 a. f. f. N.W. N.W. 28 a. S.W.' . . . - - 1 7s- 20 1 21 20 a. f. N.W. 34 a. N.W. I 22; 14 a. f. N.E. 26 a. N.E. I I 23 6 a. f. N.W. 24 a. N.W. 24 6 a. f. N.E. 26 a. N.E. 0 25 20 a. 16 a. f. f. N.E. N.E. 28 a. 30 a. s.s.w. N.E. 26 I 27 4 a. c. N.E. 24 a. r. s. ! N.W. 28 4 a. c. s. N.W. 6 a. c. a. s. N.W. 2 29 Mar. I 8 a. h. s. N.W. 12 a. c. a. s. N.W. 2i 9 8 20 b. f. N.W. 4 b. N.W. 2 19 b. '■ N.W. 14 a. 1 E. "1 u t; t i . • ! I ,4 if pj ■ it -.< i ■ ■■ 1266 METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER. Day of the month. Therm. at siiii rise. Weather. Wi', 1804. Dejr 1 Mar. 3 18 b f. E. 4 4b f. x\.E. 5 3 a. f. N.W. 6 4 b. f. N.VV. 7 16 b. c. and s . N.W. 82 b. c. s. N.W. 9 10 a. c. N.W. 10 6 a. c. N.W. II 12 a. f. E. 12 14 a. f. N.E. 13 S a. t. N.W. M! 4 a. f. N.E. 15; f b. c. s. N.W. 16 2 b. f. E. I7| 12 a. f. N.E. i8| 2 a. f. E. 19 2 a. f. N.E. 20; 4 a. f. E. 21 26 a. f. S.S.W. 23 22 a. f. N.W. aj 14 a. f. N.E. 24 6 a. f. E. 25 16 a. f. S..S.W. 26 28 a. f. E. 27| 34 a. r. and t. E. 28 34 a. c. N.E. 2g 2o a. r. a. t. N.E. 30 c. a. r. N.W. 311 .... f. N.W. pril I f. N.E. 2 8 a. f. 3 42 a. f. N.E. 4 44 a. c. a. r. N.W. 5 24 a. c. a. r. N.E. 6 18 a. c. a. r. N.W. 7 10 a. f. a. c. N.W. 8 10 a. c. N.E. 9i 18 a. f. a. c. N.E. loj 10 a. f. N.W. Ti 10 a. f. N.E. 12: 16 a. c. N.W. 13 36 a. c. N.E. 14 22 a. f. s.w. 15 22 a. f. N.W. 16 36 a. c. N.W. 17 26 a. f. a. c. N.W. 18 16 a. f. a. c. N.N.W. 19 34 a. r. S.S.E. 20 34 a. c. r. S.E 21 31 a. r. S.W. Therm, at four ■>\ !ock. Deg. 10 a. 12 a. 12 a. 2 a. 10 a. 12 .1, 10 a. 24 a. 20 a. lO a. 12 a. 10 a. 40 a. 40 a. 38 a. 44 a. 52 a. 60 a. 36 a. 40 a. 44 a. 52 a. 46 a. 44 a. 42 a. 44 a. 30 a. 37 a. 42 a. Weather. S. C. f. f. f. f. f. r. a. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. r. c. h. f. f. f. f. r. t, a. r. s. a. r. c. c. r. c. f. f. f. a. c. c f. f. a. c. f. c. r. f. a. r. Wind. S.W. K. N.W. N.W. N.W. N.W. N.W. N.W. .S.W. N.E, N.W. N.E. N.E. S.S.W. N.E. N.E. S.S.W. S.S.W. N.W. N.W. N.E. S.S.W. E. E. N.E. E. N.E. N.W. N.W. N.E. N.E. N.E. S.E. W. Kiver. f. f. f. f. f.' r. r. f. r. f. f. j r. r. r. f. f. f. f. f. r. r. r. r. r. r. r. r. r. r. r. r. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. 6i ■5 3 3 It 2 H I I 4i 5 ri 7 3 2i 2 2 4 5i I si I I t 2 I 2 I ^^ II 2 4i 2 H 2 6 7 ^ 5 n 5 3 4 3i 2 STATIONS AT WOOD RIVER AND FORT MANDAN. 1 267 If; 'I Kiver. «*^ •a .J a H '-* f. f. 6J ■5 3 3 2 2i ;f 5 ri 7 3 2 2 4 5J 10 7 5} I 2 2 3I II 2 4i 2 2 7 6J 5 ?J 5 3 4 3i 2 Day of the month. May 1804. April 22 23 24 ^5! 20 27 fi 291 30 l| 2| 3i 4| i 8. 9 10 II 12 13 14 # j 19 20 21 23 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 I 2 3 4 5 6 7 Therm, at sun- rise. Deg. 28 a. 23 a. 36 a. 26 a. 16 a. 28 a. 30 a. 33 a. i8a. 20 a. 19a. 24 a. 40 a. 42 a. 34 a. 38 a. 44 a. 42 a. 46 a. 46 a. 36 a. 42 a. 34 ;i Sep, Oct. Weather. C. and r. c. r. c. r. 46 a. 51a. 58 a. 52 a. 50 .n. 54 a. 5f>a. 54 a. 52 a. f. 45 a. 45-1. 42 a. c. a. r. 40 a. 39 a. 40 a. 3Sa. 0. a. r. 36 a. r 43 a. 45 a. 4Sn. Wind. N.W. N.VV. N.W. N.W N.W. W. N.W. N.W. S.E. S.E. S.E. S.S.E. S. w. s.w. .S.E. N.E. E. N.E. E. E. W. S.E. S.E. S.E. S.W. E. S.E. E. S.W. W. W. S.E. .S.E. S.E. S.E. S.E. N.W. N.W. N.W. N.W. S.E. N.W. Therm, at four o'clock Deg. 34 a. 64 a. 44 a. 38 a. 58 a. 62 a. 64 a. 52 a. Sf) a. 54 a. 68 a. 73 a. 56 a. 58 a. 70 a. 52 a. 63 a. 76 a. 67 a. 70 a. 72 a. 40 a. 5(1 a. 71 a. 70 a. 88 a. 83 a. 86 a. 82 a. 70 a. :" a. 86 a. 80 a. 67 a. 52 46 75 45 50 54 a. 60 a. 58 a. 63 a. Weather. C. f. f. c. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. c. a. r c. a. r f. f. f. f. f. f. f. c. a. r, f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. c. a. r. c. c. c. a, c. f. f. f. f. r. Wind. N.W. W. N.W. N.W. N.W. S.W. N.W. S.E. N.E. N.E. S.S.E. s.s.w. s. w. s.w. S.S.E. S. w. S.W. N.W. S.W. W. N.W. N. S.E. S.E. S.W. S.E. S.E. W. W. S.W. S.W. S.E. S.E. .S.E. S.E. N. N. N.W. N.W. N.W. S.E. N.W. ■« !^ li li b, I • 1*1 i ' 6 I 8 S' 8 7 7 6 4i 6 4i 2 2i 2 4 2 3 * Here is a hiatus in tlie MS., which it is not in our power to fill up, viz., from the 14th of M,iy to the igth of Sept. The party were then just beginning the ascent of the Missouri, ..nd it is prol)able that, among the many other important things which engrossed their attention, this was omitted. (Grig, note.) ^ r 2 •i 2J •. 2 •i 3j -, 4i •: 5 •i 3h I 3 2 I I 3 4 ; 4 I ,' 5 4^ !? II , I , 9 II 5 4 4 2 2 'I H' i •I 2 •! 2 •: I •I 2 i ■ff }■ A !^ I I : : [I h i' ' ! 'I li," '1 V i m I < 1272 METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER. i Day of 1 Therm . I the at sun - Weather. Wind. month. rise. 1 1805. [ Deg. Apr. 2b\ 32 a. f. s. 2- ?! 36 a. 1 f- s.w. 2! 3 4ja. 1 f. S.E. 2( J 42 a. f. N.E. 3C ) 50 a. f. N.W. May ] 36 a. c. E. r ! 28 a. s. N.E. r 26 a. f. VV. 4 ^ 38 a. , c. W. c i 38 a. 1 f- N.W. I 48 a. f. E. 7 42 a. c. S. 8 41 a. c. E. 9 38 a. f. E. 10 38 a. f. a. c. W.N.W. II 44 a. f. N.E. 12 t 52 a. f. S.E. 13 52 a. c. a. r. N.W. 14 32 a. f. •S.W. 15 48 a. c. a. r. s.w. 16 48 a. c. s.w. 17 60 a. f. N.E. 18 58 a. f. VV. 19 38 a. f. E. 20 52 a. f. N.E. 21 50 a. f. S.W. 22 46 a. c. N.W. 23 32 a. f. S.W. 24, 32 a. f. N.W. 25; 46 a. ] f. S.W. 26; 58 a. f. s.w. 27I 62 a. f. s.w. 28 62 a. c. s.w. 29i 62 a. c. a. r. s.w. 301 56 a. c. a. r. s.w. 31 48 a. c. a. r. w. June I 50 a. c. s.w. 2 56 a. c. a. r. s.w. 3 46 a. f. s.w. 4 48 a. f. a. c. N.E. "; 40 a. r. S.W. 6 35 a. c. a. r. N.E. 7 40 a. c. a. r. S.W. 8 41 a. r. a. r. S.W. 9 50 a. s.w. 10! 52 a. I, S.w. II 54 a. I, s.w. 12 54 a. s.w. 13 52 a. s.w. 14 60 a. ^■ s.w. Therm, at four o'clock. Deg. 63 a. 64 a. 63 a. 64 a. 53 a. 46 a. S4a. 46 a. 48 a. 62 a. 61 a. 60 a. 52 a. 58 a. 62 a. 60 a. 54 a. 54 a. 52 a. 54 a, C17 a. 68 a. 46 a. 68 a. 76 a. 76 a. 48 a. 54 a. 68 a. 82 a. 80 a. 82 a. 72 a. 67 a. 50 a. 53 a. 62 a. 68 a. 60 a. 61 a. 42 a. 42 a. 43 a. 48 a. 52 a. 68 a. 66 a. 64 a. 72 a. 74 a. Weather. f. f. f. f. f. c. a. f, c. a. s c. f. a. c, f. a. r. c. a. r. f. c. a. r. f. c. a. r. c. c. a. r. f. a. c. c. f. f. c a. r. f. a. c. f. f. c, f. f. f. f. f. c. and r. r. r. c. a. r. c. f. f. f. c. a. r. r. a. r. r. a. r. f. a. f. f. a. r. f. f. a. r. f. f. Wind at four o'clock. I Kiv S.E. N.W. S.E. E. S.E. N.E. N.W. W. W. S.E, S.E. N.E. E. W. N.W. S.W. N.W. N.W. S.W. N.W. S.W. S.W. N.W. S.W. E. N.W. N.W. S.W. S.E. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. s.w. s.w. s.w. S.E. S.W. S.w. s.w. N.E. N.E. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. s.w. s.w. S.W. •a I J C 1 V ...-, ... 2 ... li ... l| ::: 4 . . . I T . . . 1 2 r. f. r. f. r. f. f. f. 2 .1 I f. ... H f. ij t. I r. 2 r. i) f. 1 ASCENDING THE JEFFERSON. 1273 Rive - ; » V j3 li I 2 4 . . 2 . . 2 • ., I 1 > . . i I 5 iJf I ... "j. I ...i li ... Ij I ... 2 I.'.. '1 Day of the month. Therm. at sun- Weather, rise. Wind at £ nrise ' Therm, at 1 four I Weather. : o'clock. ' Wind at four o'clock. I So 5- 1 Deg. June 15 60 a. f. S.W. 16 64 a. c. r. S.W. 17 50 a. c. S.W. 18 48 a. c. S.W. iQj 52 a. 1 f. S.W. 20' 49 a. c. S.W. 2i| 49 a. : f. S.W. 22 45 a. c. Is w 33 48 a. f. ' s.E. 24 49 a. ^ c. a. r. : S.E. 25 47 a. c. a. r. ! S.W. 26 49 a. f. s W 27' 49 a. f. S.W. 28: 46 a. f. S.W. 29; 47 a. r. t. 1. S.W. , , 3o| 49 a. f. S.W. July i: 59 a : { S.W. 2. 60 a. i f, a. r. .S.W. 3, 56 a. : f. S.W. 4 52 a. : f. S.W. 5 49 a. ■ t. and r. ' S W 6 47 a. c. a. h. . s.W 7: 54 a. : c. a. f. s.W. 8| 60 a. f. s.W. 9' 56 a. : f. S.W. lol 52 a. f. a. r. S.W. iij 4f)a. 1 f. s.W. 12,' 50 a. i f. : s.W I3j 42 a. i f. s.W 14' 45 a. f. S.W. 15 60 a. f. a. r. S.W. 16 53 a. 1 f. S.W. I7i 33 a. i f- S.W. 18; Co a. ' f. 1 S.W. I9 62 a. , f. S.W. 20- 59 a. , f. a. r. S.W. 31 : 60 a. ! f. N.W. 22; 52 a. 1 f. N.W. 231 54 a. ' f. S.W". 24 60 a. ; f. S.W. 25i 60 a. ' f. i S.W. 26 60 a. ' f. S.W. 27 52 a. ' c. S.W. 28, 49 a. f. a. r. S.W. 29 54 a. f. a. r. N. 30: 50 a. S.E. . 31 48 a. f. S.W. Aug. I 54 a. S.W. 2 48 a. N.W. 3 5» a. N.E. I I^eg. I 75 a. 74 a. ; 72 a. ' 78 a. ; 77 a. I 75 a. : 77 a. 76 a. 74 a. 78 a. 74 a. 76 a. 72 a. 74 a. 77 a. 78 a. 76 a. 66 a. 70 a. 74 a. 76 a. 78 a. 76 a. 80 a. 81 a. 84 a. 68 a. 60 a. 67 a. 80 a. 80 a. 90 a. 86 a, 82 a. 80 a. 90 a. 82 a. 80 a. 92 a. 91 a. Si a. 86 a. c. f. f. c. f. a f. f. a. r. c. f. c. f. a. c. £. f. ;f. a. r. h, I c. a. f, f. a. r. f. f. f. c.a.f.a.r. f. a. r. f. f. a. c. f. a. c. f. a. r. c. a. r. !: f. f. c. a. r. f. f. f. f. c. a. h. : f. f. f. c. f. f. c. a. r. c. a. r. (. f. f. f. f. f. f. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.E. S.W. .S.W. S.W. S.W. .S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W .s.v,. fc '■ ' s.v, '. N.W. S.W. s.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. I S.W. . S.W. I N.W. I N.W. i N.E. i S.W. S.W. .S.W. S.W. S.W. .S.W. N.E. .S.E. S.W. .S.W. N.W, N.E. f. r. f. f. f. f. f. f. f f. f. f. f. i 4 2 4i 2^ I i Wli t i 1274 METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER. Hi 11 !i I "i i "l'\ V Day of the month. I'herir at sun rise. Weather Wind at sunrise. i Therm, at four Weather, o'clock. Wind at (our o'cluclt. c Kiver. £ IS 1805. 1 Deff. Deg. 92 a. 1 Aug. 4| 48 a. f. S. f. s. f. :::!| 5 49 a. ! f. S.E. 79 a- f. S.E. f. () 52 a. ; f. S.W. 7i a. c. S.W. 7 54 a. c. a. r. S.W. 80 a. c. S.W. i!.. t ^ h4 a. f. a. r. .S.W. 82 a. c, a. f. S.W. ( ) 5^^ a. f. 1 N.E. 78 a. c. S.W. It ) 60 a. 1 c. a. r. S.W. 68 a. t. 1. r. S.W. |. . . I] 58 a. c. a. r. h N.E. 70 a. f. S.W . ....... 12 58 a. f. a. r. h W. 72 a. f.a.r.a.h N.W. 13 52 a. 51 a. c. a. f. f. a. r. N.W. N.W. 7" a. 76 a. f. a. r. f. N.W. N.W. !■» 1 . . . '. . . 15 52 a. f. .S.E. 74 a. f. S.W. 16 48 a. f. S.W. 70 .1. f. S.W. 17 42 a. f. N.E. 7'> n. f. S.W. '. .. 18 45 a. c. .S.W. 78.1, r. S.W. 19 30 a. f. a. r. S.W. 71 a. f. a. r. S.W. ' . . . 20 32 a. f. S.W. 74 a. f. s. w. ' * * 21 19 a. f. S.E. 78 a. f. E. " "1 ' ' " 22 22 a. 35 a. 40 a. 32 a. 31 a. 32 a. f. f. f. f. a. r. f. i. E. E. S.E. S.E. .S.E. S.E. 70 a. 72 a. 76 a. 65 a. 45 a. 56 a. f. f. f. a. r. c. f. f. E. S.E. S.E. S.E. S.E. S.E. ...... 23 24 25 26 27 28 35 a. I. S.W. 66 a. f. s.'w. 29 32 a. f. c. c. a. r. S.W. N.E. N.E. 68 a. 59 a. 58 a. f. c. c. a. r. h. S.W. N.E. N.E. 30 34 a. ...... 0 3I; 38 a. * 1 * * * Sep. r 38 a. 36 a. c. c. a. r. N.W. N.E. 67 a. 60 a. c. c. a. r. h. N.W. N.E. 1 2 . . .i. . . 3 34 a. c. a. r. N.E. 52 a. c. a. r. N.E. 4 19 a. r. a. s. N.E. 34 a. c. a. r. N.E. 5 17 a. c. .1. s. N.E. 29 a. c. a. r. s. N.E. 6 .... c. a. r. c. a. r. N.E. N. E. r. c. a. r. N.E. N.E. 7 8 c. c. a. r. N.E. N.E. c. a. r. f. a. r. N.E. N.E. 9 , , , ( 10 .... f. N.W. f. N.W. It .... f. N.W. f. N.W. 12 f. c. c. a. r. N.W. N.E. S.W. .... f. r. c. a. r. N.E. N.E S.W. " ' 1 ' ' ' 13 j 14 15 . . . . c. a. s. S.W. .... s. S.W. i6 c. a. s. S.W. f. S.W. 17 f. f. s.w^ S.W. f. f. S.W. S.W. 18 19 . . . . f. f. S.W. S.W. f. f. S.W. . S.W\ . ' "1" 20 21 . . . . f. S.E. f. S.W. . 22 f. S.W. 1 .... f. S.W. . V ! J 1 STATION AT rORT CLATSOP. 1275 Day of Weathtr. Wind nt sunrise. 'J'hcrtn. ii four o'clock. Wcatler. Wind at four o'cIduU. River. tl.e Illniith. at sun- rise. — rt u 4J 1 u '•J c 1805. ep. 23 Dct S.W. S.E. E. E. E. E. E. E. DCQ. S.W. S.E. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. 24 ■25 26 27 2H 29 30 1 ... . ..|... October, i ? . ■ 'V i !!' II 1 r. i ' k ■y ! . IJ/O METEOI UH.OCICAl, KECI.STER. n.iy of the Weather. Wind at Weather. Wind at tour month. sunrise. I t)'clt)ck. I.S.)6. Jan. I c. a. r. ,S.\V. r. a. c. S.W. 2 c. a. r. S.W. r. S. W. 3 c. a. r. h. t. & 1. S.W. c. a. r. h. tV f. S.W. A c. a. r. & h. S.W. r. a. f. iV r. S.E. 5 r. S.E. r. S. E. ( c. a. r. S.E. f. E. 1 f. N.E. c. a. f. S.E. 8 f. N.E. f. a. f. S.E. ') f. .S.W. c. a. f. S.W. 10 f. a. r. S.W. c. a. f. S.W. II c. S.W. c. a. r. S.W. 12 f. a. c. X.W. c. N. W. 13 r. S.W. r. .S.W. 14 f . a. r. N.W. c. a. f. s. 15 r. a. c, & r. S. E. r. a. r. s. i6 r. a. r. S. W. r. a. r. S.W. i- c. a. r. S.W. c. S.W. i8 r. a. r. S.W. c. a. r. S.W. IQ c. a. r. 1-;. c. a. r. S.W. 20 r. a. r. s.w^ r. a. r. S.W. 21 c. a. r. S.W. c. a. I. S.W. 22 r. a. r. S.W. c. a. r. S.W. 23 c. a. r. t. & 1. S.W. c. a. f. S.W. 24 c. a. r. & s. S.E. c. a. r. h. & s. E. '^ h. a. r. h. s. N.E. c. a. r. h. & s. N.E. 26 c. a. h. iJt s. N.E. f. a. s. N.E. 27 f. a. s. N.E. f. N.E. 28 f. N.E. f. N.E. 29 f. N.E. f. N.E. 30 s. a. s. N. s. a. .s. W. 31 f. a. c. N.E. f. N !•; Feb. I f. N.E. f. N.E.' 2 f. N.E. c. a. s. S.W. 3 c. a. s. & r. N.W\ c. a. f. N.E. 4 f. N.E. f. N.E. 5 f. N.E. f. N.E. 6 f. N.E. c. S.W. 7 c. S.W. c. S.W. 8 c. a. s. r. h. S.W. c. a. f. r. h. & s. S.W. 9 c. a. r. &h. S.W. c. a. r. iV h. S.W. ID c. a. r. h. s. N. c. a. f. & c. S.W. II c. a. f. & c. S.W. r. a. f. & r. S.W. 12 r. a. r. & c. S.W. r. a. c. (S: r. S.W. 13 c. a. r. S.W. c. a. r. S.W. M c. a. f. & s. S.W. r. a. r. f. tV- r. S.W. 15 c. a. r. & f. s. ' c. a. r. iS: f. S.W. i6 r. a. s. \- r. S.W. r. a. f. & r. S.W. 17 c. a. r. h. & s. ! S.W. r. a. f. h. s. & r. S.W. iSi c. a. r. iS: h. ' S.W. f. a. r. & h. S.W. 19 r. a. r. S.W. r. a. r. S.W. \ ( STATION AT FoRT CI.ATSOI'. 1377 I ' Day (if niiintli. 180G, Feb. 20 21 00 23 24 25 2f) 27 28 March i 2 3 4 5 6 7| 8 0! lol II 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 10 20| 21I 22; 23I 24! 25 26 27i 281 29! Weather. c. a. r. r. a. c. iS: r. f. a. r. f. c. a. f. ,S: c. r. a. r. f. a. r. c. a. r. r. a. r. f. a. r. i*v: c. r. a. c. & r. c. a. r. r. a. c. & r. c. a. r. f. a. r. r. a. r. & h. li. iS: r. a. h. r. & s. s. & h. a. r. s. iS: h. s. & r. a. h. r. iV s. f. a. r. h. & s, f. a. c. f. a. r. c. a. f. c. a. c. r. a. f. .S: c. c. a. r. r. a. c. c\: r. r. & h. a. c. r. & h. r. a. r. & h. r. a. r. r. a. r. r. a. r. r. a. c. & r. c. a. f. c. a. r. r. a. c. c. a. r. c. a. r. & f. Wirul .It ^^lllri^c. s.w. s.w. N.E. S.W. S.W. s. N.K. S.W. .S.W. S.W. s. s. s. iX.H. S.K. S.E. S. S.W. s.w. S.K. N.K. N.K. N.K. N.K. S.W. .S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. s.w. S.K. N.W. S.E. N. S. W'e.iiliLT. r. a. c. a. r. a. c, a. c. a. &f. f a. r. r. a. c. \- r. c. a. f. c. a. f. r. a. c. iV r. r. a. r. c. a. f. & r. r. a. r. c. a. c. & f. r. a. c. & r. c. (S: r. r. r. r. f. r. a. f. r. h. c r. a. r. & h. r. a. li. & r. f. a. r. h. & s. f. a, 1-. & h. c. a. f. f. c. f. c. a. f. c. r. r. a. f. h. b. & r. r. a. f. r. & h. r. a. f. r. & h. r. c. a. r. r. a. c. & r. f. a. c. & r. f. a. c. r. a. c. & r. c. a. f. & c. r. a. c. & r. f. a. f. & r. c. a. r. Wind at lour o'clock. S.W. s.w, N.K. S.w, S. S. s. s.w. s.w. s.w. s. s. s. s. S.E. S.E. S.E. S.W. s.w. S.E. N.E. N.K. N.K. N.E. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. N.E. S.W. N.E. S.W. N.W. S.W. S.E. S.E. S.K. S.W. S.W. A f \ ' ^\ u I i ii tliJil 11 ..t ''.in 1 |;P:p! IfVf 1278 V-.\y of the moiuh. 1806. j Mar. JO Apr, May l« ( I :l t 31 I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 II 12 13 M 15 i6i 17I 18 I9J 20 2I| 22 23! 24 1 26! 27I 281 30 I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 II 12 METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER. Weather. C. C. f. c. a. f. c. c. a. r. c. a. r. c. a. r. f. a. c. f. f. f. c. a. r. r. a. r. c. a. r. r. a. c. & r. f. f. f. a. c. f. f. a. r. c. a. r. f. a. r. f. f. f. a. c. f. f. f. a. c. f. a. r. f. a. t. f. a. c. c. a. r. c. a. r. f. a. c. . a. h. r. s. f. a. h. f. r. a. c. r. f. a. c. f. f. a. r. & s. f. a. r. f. Wind ut sunrise. E. .S.E. .S E. .S.E. .S.W. S.W. .S. \V. S.W. S.W. E. W. W. W. W. W. w. w. S.W. N.E. s.w^ S.W. S.W. N.E. N.W. E. N.W. N.E. N.W. .S.E. S. W. N.W. N.W. S.W. N.E. S. W. S.W. S.W. N.E. N.E. s.\v. S.W. S.W. S.W. E. Weather. C. f. a. c. c. a. f. c. a. f. c. a. r. c. a. r. a. f. & c. f. f. f. f. c. a. r. c. a. r. r. a, c. & r. c. a. r. & f. f. f. f. c. a. f, f, c, c. a. r, f, f. f, f. f. f. f. f. f. f c. f. ;. a. :. a. r. & h f. f. a. r. f. f. f, a, c. f. a. s. f. a, c. f. a. c. s. Wind at tour o'clock. S.W. s.ii. S.E. \V. S.W. S.W. S,W. S.W. E. W. S.W. S.W. w. \v. w. w. S.W. S.W, S.W. S.W. S.W. E. N.E. N.W. N.E. N.E. N.W. N.E. N.W. N.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. S.W. N.E. S.W. S.W. w. S.W. S.W. s. \x. Columbia River. r. f. f. f. f. f. r. r. r. r. r. r. r. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. f. I k 3h H I 1 2 2 2^ I STATION AT CAMP CHOPUNNISII. 1279 iLiia Kiver. zl « I ••• k ••• 3i ... 4 ... 2i I ... i ... li I ..| a .. 2 .. 2i I 2 2 I •• 3 .. 2i . . 2 I •• 4 2 ::, ;| .. 2 .-I I .. 2 .■ ." : : : Dav of Weather. Wind ut sunrise. Weather Wind at fmir o'clock. Kooskuo.slcee R, the month, 1 0 a 1806. ' - — . May I ^ f. S.W. S.W. N. S.E. f. f. f. a. c. c. a. r. S.W. S.W. N.W. S.E. I. I 6 I" 7 r. a. r. S.E. c. a. r. s. i;. ifii li i' c. a. r. S.E. c. S. K. 2 1( ) r. a. r. S.E. c. a. r. S.E. 4 2 2C ) r. a. r. N.W. c. a. r. S. K. 2] c. a. r. S.E. f. a. c. S.K. T 2S f. S.E. f. S.E. 2 23 i f- N.W. f. N.W. S.E. 2^ ' f. S.E. f. N.W. 25 2f c. a. r. & t. f. a. r. N.W. S.E. f. f. N.W. N.W. 9i 6 -7 28 c. c. a. r. t. & 1. S.E. S.E. r. a. f. r. t, 1. c. a. f. r. t. 1. S.E. S.E. H 29 c. a. r. & t. S.E. c. a. r. N.W. I 5 6 30 c. a. r. S.E. f. S.E. T ^' June I c. a. f. f. a. r. t. & 1. c. a. c. c. a. f. &c. c. a. r. f. f. c. a. r. S.E. S. E. N.W. S.K. S.E. S.K. S.K. N.W. f. f. a. c. f. a. c. c. a. f. f. a. c. f. f. c. a. f. r. h. S.K. N.W. S.E. S.E. N.W. N.W. N.W. N.W. I I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 c, c. £. f. t a. r. 1. & t. c. f. c. f. a. c. c. a. r. c. a. r. f. a. c. f. f. f. f. f. S.E. S.E. S.E. S.E. S.E. S.E. S.E. N.W. S.E. E. E. S.E. S.E. S.E. N.w^ N.W. N.W. c. a. f. f. a. c. f. f. f. c. a. f. f. r. a. f. & r. c. a. f. c. a. f. & r. c a. r. & h. f. f. f. f. f. f. N.W. N.W. N.W. N.W. N.W. N.W. N.W. N.W. S.E. S.E. S.W. N.W. N.W. N.W. N.W. N.W. . N.W. 9 •d IW 19 13 14 15 16 17 18 i 19 1 20 21 22 23 24 25 c. a. r. S.E. c. a. r. N.W. . .. . . .. . •I m i it r 'I 'I i : H t M f 1 2 no MI ;TK()k()|,( )(il( Al, kK(iI STEK. • Kivtr Day of the month. Winil at sunrise. Weather. Weather. Wind at (nur o'clock. 1 J ?• 1 1 ' * ' -S i ^ iSo6. 1 1 1 June 2f) ! c. a. r. f. a. r. f. 1 f. S.K. S.K. S.K. S.K. ; !: f. a. r. h. t. S.K. .S.K. S.K. S.K. 27 28 1 , 29 .... T . 30 f. c. a. f. 1; f. f. c. a. r. S.E. x.vv. S.K. S.K. S.W. N.K. S.W. vv, ' 1. {. f. 1 f. f. f. c. a. r. t. & 1. i. a. r. N.W. N.W. X.W. S.W. S.W. > w. S.W. l>yW. July I 2 3 4 5 6 !. 7 ...'.... 8 f. a. r. c. f. f. w. S.W. S.K. S.K. f. ' f. f. S.W. S.W. S.W. X.X.E. 0 10 11 12 f. S.K. f. X.W. 13 f. f. S..S.K. N. \V. f. f. N.K. N.W. 14 15 f. c. .S.K. by E. X.K. f. c. X.K. N.K. 16 17 f. a. r. h. t, 1. f. f. S.K. S.W. x.w. i; f. S.W. S.K. S.E. . .... i8| 19; . . . . 20, f. f. f. a. t. 1. & r. f. f. c. c. N.K. X.K. X.K. N.K. S.W. K. s.s.w. f. c. c. c. r. c. a. r. f. a. r. N.K. Si: S.K. S.W. S.W. N.W. 21' 22 23, 24 25 26 27 f. c. a. r. X.K. X.K. f. f. S.W. i N.W. 1 28 29 c. a. r. t. (S: 1. f. a. r. t. & 1. f. c. a. r. X.K. X.W. X.W. X.W. f. f. a. r. c. a. r. r. N. i S.E. N.E. ; N. ! ' 30 31 Aug. I r. =■ h 2 c. a. r. X. f. a. r. N. r. 3 . . ' . 3 f. S.W. ' f. S.W. r. 2 1 4 f. N.W. \ f. N.E. ! f. (> I =; f. X.K. i f. N.K. f. 6 c. a. r. t. 1. S.W. i f. N.K. f. 2 ' 7; r. X E. c. a. r. N. 1 f. 2 [ 8 f. i X. f. N.W. : f. ... .... 9! f. ' X.K. f. N.E. f. loj f. ' 1:. c. K. f. ;i II f. X.W. f. N.W. f. . . . ( 2 .... 12 f. S.W. c. S.W. f. 2 i 0 J 13 f. a. r. S.W. f. S.W. f. M f. X.K. f. S.W. f. 3 1 DESCENDINf; THE MISSOURI. I28r Day ,:! the month. Weather. :n(l Weather 1806. 1 Aug. 15 f. .s.W. f i() f. N.W. f. 17 c. S.E. c. 18 c a. r. s.i:. f. »9 1. & r. S.E. c 20 c. a. t. 1, 6c r. S.W. f. SI f. S.E. f. 33 c. a. r. S.W. f. 8", c. S.E. 24 f. X.E. , f 21, f. S.W. f 26 f. L.- T- f. f. f 37i f. 38, f. .^.1.. »9, c. N.W. f. a 30i c. a. r S.E. f. 31' c. a. r. t, 1. w. 1 S.E. c. a REMARKS AND REFLECTIONS Kci'isttT from Tan i^t iS,^ „.i .1 . ""-^'^''- '^'^Pi-^ -^leteorologicnl I'ook." (2) 1 eivis Fe \„r T I . ,' "V ' ' ■■"' ■•"'J™""'!; l'"t »t this this c„,l„ f„, A A?;; , f ' '? ■ '*°=- ■'''"■ ■"•""'h.BicAl ...ntler „( |cr rs Irsi th< Ch£ ley Uuii .<1^ %. ^% % ^^„'.a?- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4^^ 1.0 I.I |50 ^^ |!T |3.2 12.5 M 1.8 lUI 111^ llllli.6 rnuujgicipniC Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 87^-4503 4? V iV \\ 9) V ;\ ■'^'G^'''. '•i^'^'^ f^ ,> v^x* ,M'^ ^^ f/i ;» ^ •■ 1282 METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER. ^ -s i •Jin 30th, 1806. (6) Lewis L 149-146, June ist-Aug. 12th, 1806. (7) Clark M 152-146, June ist-Aug. 31S1, 1806. (8). Clark N 152, 151, for the month of Sept., 1806. It will be observed that some of these registers overlap in dates, which doubtless results from the copies in the " red books" being made inde- pendently by each captain from a single register kept in the field. As the regis- tration is continued to the end ot September, 1806, I do not see why the fore- going Tables break down at Aug. 31st, and the " Remarks " leave off at Aug. 22d, in the Biddle edition. I shall not complete the tabular matter, as I consider it useless, and in fact have reprinted it only pro forma, to justify the statement that nothing in the original edition is omitted from the present. But I will con- tinue the never-published " Remarks" through September.] Jan. I, 1804. Snov one inch deep. 2. Some snow last night. 3, Hard wind. 4. River covered with ice out of the Missouri, 5, 6, 7. River Du Bois rises. 8. River continues to rise, and discharges ice. Some snow last night. The Missouri rises. Snow last night. 19. River covered with ice, some 5^ inches thick. (/. 4g6) Jan. 20. No ice passing. Jan. 21. Ice running out of the Missouri 9 inches thick ; snow 2^ inches deep. Jan. 22. Jan. 23. Jan. 24, Jan. 28. Feb. I. Feb. 2. Feb. 3. Feb. 4. Feb. 5. Feb. 6. Jan Jan Jan Jan Jan. Jan Jan Jan. 13 Jan. 17 9. 10. Ice running out of the Missouri ; snow 5^ inches deep. Ice stopped. Trees covered with ice. Ice running, cold, etc. The wind blew hard ; no frost ; snow disappearing fast. Frost this morning ; the snow has disappeared in spots. Frost this morning ; the snow thaws considerably. Ti'rost ; numbers of swan and geese from north and south. Immense quantity of ice running, some of which is 11 inches thick. A quantity of soft ice running ; white frost ; the snow disappeared ; swans passing. Feb. 7. A small quantity of floating ice passing ; swan£ passing. Many swans from the N.W. Creek rose and took ofl the water- Feb. 8. mark. Feb. 9. Feb. 10. the south. Feb. II, Feb. 12. Feb. 13, Feb. 14, Feb. 15. The river rose two feet ; large quantity of drift ice from the Missouri. Ice still drifting in considerable quantities ; some geese pass from The sugar-maple runs freely ; swans pass from the north. Pigeons, geese, and ducks of various kinds have returned. First appearance of the blue crains [cranes, Ardca herodias]. But little drift ice ; the Mississippi not broken up ; sugar-trees run. Immense quantity swans. REMARKS AND RKFI.ECTIOXS. 1283 ^t' II' ?' "'"'■ '°'' '^'" '"'■'" ''"'^ f^" immediately. /•'*. 28. IJegan to snow, and continued all day -^/'i'-. 8. Rain, succeeded by snow and hail. Mar. 9. Cloudy in the morning. Mar. 19. The weather has been generally fair but verv cold ■ fh. .v 1, r.a ..pes „„ .. ,„,, , j„, j':,L^tl r jr^:'!';:'; of the wing to the extremity of the same "^ ^ ^J/«r 20. Heard the first frogs on my return from ..t. Charles . -'/«''. 25. Saw the first white crane [?] return Mar. 26. The weather warm and fair and no f?r n !l ^'^'' '"'^'"^ '° 'P""^ ' ^'^'^ ^^^^'her has been warm produces them [.]. 1 hey attempted to bite my horse, but I could not observe that they made any impression with their beaks Mar. 31. Windy. ^/r. I. The spicewood is in full bloom ; the dog's-tooth violet [ErvtArn ZZTT'T^ and May-apple iPoJ.p.ynu,^, pLuon] apperf above" ground. A northern light appeared at 10 o'clock p. m., very red ' appear''^ ^^ " ""' '" ''""^ ''^ '^"''^ °^ ''^^ P^^"^"- ^PP»es. and cherries Mr t tV'?' '^°'^°^ P'"""' ^^"'^"""^ -vM.../5^«./.«.] appear, nnfl ;h 1 . " °^ '"'"^ °^ '^' apple-trees have burst thir coverts and Apr. 13. The peach-trees are partly in bloom. The brant ^roose ,lnrW swan, crane, and other aquatic birds have disappeared very mu h wi ; a few days, and have gone further north, I presume ; the summer-ducks 7 ' / "A .^l ra,sethe,r young m this neighborhood, and are now here in great nmirf^ hafput orth S ; """ "■'''■--' the weeping-willow \Sali. l.aHonica^ nas put forth its leaves, which are one-fifth of their ffnin c,,^ »u ' • , The ,r„. of ,he tor«, panic.Url, the co„o„wo.d, tegin ,„ obtin, froTto 1284 METE0K01,0(;iCAL KKtilSIEK. «tt. size of their buds, a greenish cast at a distance ; the Kooseberry, which is also in this country and blacif , has put forth its leaves ; frost. Apr. 26. The white frost killed much Iruit near Kahokia, while that at St. Louis escaped with little injury. Apr. 30. White frost, sliy;ht ; did but little injury. May 5. Thundered and lightened excessively this morning. May 10. Distant thunder ; sultry this evening. May 12. The wind at four was uncommonly hard. \^May 14. Set out from the river Dubois up the Missouri, Clark C 227. J May 25. Strawberries on the prairies ripe and abundant. May 27. Service-berries or wild currants ripe and abundant. May 30. Mulberries begin to ripen ; abundant in the bottoms of the river. June 10. Purple raspberries ripe and abundant. (/. 4gg) June 11. Many small birds now sitting ; some have young ; the whippoorwill \Antrostoniiis 7'oc>f,rus\ sitting. June 16. The wood-duck [W/.i sponsa'l now has its young ; these ducks are abundant, and, except one solitary pelican and a few geese, are the only aquatic fowl we have yet seen. July 1. Saw some geese [Bernie/a ainadensis] with their young; caught several ; they are not yet feathered, nor can they fly ; the old geese are in the same situation at this season. July 4. A great number of young swans and geese in a lake opposite the mouth of Fourth of July creek ; in the lake there is also an abundance of fish of various species, the pike, perch, carp, catfish, sun-perch, etc. July 12. Deer and bear are becoming scarce ; elk begin to appear. July 23. Catfish very common, and easily taken in any part of this river ; some are nearly white, particularly above the Platte river. Sept. 19. The leaves of some of the cotton woods begin to fade ; yesterday saw the first brant [Bernicla brenta] passing from northwest to southeast. Sept. 20. The antelope is now rutting ; the swallow has disappeared twelve days. Sept. 21. The elk is now rutting ; the buffalo has nearly ceased [to rut] ; the latter commence the latter end of July or the first of August. Sept. 22. A little foggy this morning ; a great number of green-legged plover are passing down the river, also some geese and brant. Sept. 23. The air remarkably dry ; plums and grapes fully ripe ; in 36 hours two spoonfuls of water evaporated in a saucer. Sept. 27. Saw a large flock of white gulls, with wings tipped with black. Oet. I. The leaves of the ash, poplar, and most of the shrubs begin to turn yellcw and decline. (/• .500) Oet. 3. The earth and sand which form the bars of this river are so fully impregnated with salt that it shoots and adheres to the little sticks which appear on the surface ; it is pleasant and seems nitrous. Oet. 5. Slight white frost last night • geese and brant passing south. Oet. 6. Frost last night ; saw teel [teal], mallards, and gulls. 5 :' KKMAkKS AND RKI'LECTIONS. 1285 t^'V. 14. Cottunwoods all yellow, and the leaves beginninL. to fall • ahn„ dance of grapes ami red berries; the leaves of all the frees as l.h V except the Cottonwood, are now fallen. ' ''"^' '''"' '''=- Off 17. Saw a large flock of white brant with black wines IC/i^n ln.f,-r cts'ti^; ^""'°''^^ ""'' '''"-^ '° "^^ "'-^ ~- to^SeJ^rist:; «,.?th '^' . "^'■'*/^°^* ''^^^ "'Bht. the clay near the water's edge was frozen as was the water in the vessels exposed to the air. ' Ocl. 19. No mule-deer seen above the Chayenne river A'.'r-. 3. Wind blew hard all day N«.. 7, A tew drops ot rain Ihi, evcninEi saw the aurora boreaii. at ,0 pisS^n" "' "■'"' '""'*"'• '" -"■-»•''""" -'-»■ '"■.«-rcha.li„° hafSiet „i?L::s!"" '"" "' "" """"' ""'''° t''°" "-■'H. .h. river A'"?'. 9. Very hard frost this morning. w^r'xT ,^''"^ ^'^'^ P^'''"^ ^° '•'^ """^^^ : saw a flock of crested cherrv birds {Ampdis calroyu,„\ passing to the south. ^' A^'T.. 13. Large quantity of drift ice running this morning ; the river having appearances of closing for this winter ^ of theCes^"" ''• ""' '"^^ ^"^ "^^"'"^ ^"-'^^'1 ^° '^^ timber and boughs f "^•- '7- The frost of yesterday remained on the trees until 2 p m when It descended like a shower of snow ; swans passing from the north. ' Nov. 20. Little soft ice this morning ; the boat in much danger from ice. The snow fell eight inches deep ; it drifted in heaps in the open Nov. 29 ground. Nov. 30. Dec. 5. Dec. 7. Dec. 8. The Indians pass the river on the ice. Wind blew excessively hard this night from the northwest Last night the river blocked up opposite Fort Mandan The ice one and a half inches thick on the part that had not ore viously frozen ; buffalo appear. P"'" Dec. 14. Captain Clark set out with a hunting-party on the ice with sleighs. Snow fell half an inch. ^ Snow very inconsiderable. The trees are all white with the frost, which attached itself to .heir Dec. 15. Dec. 24. Dec. 27. boughs. Dec. 38. \ It blew very hard last night ; the frost fell like a shower of snow. ^1 1286 METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER. t I /apt. 3, 1805. The snow is nine inches deep. _/(/«. 6. At twelve o'clock two luminous spots appeared on each side of the sun, extremely bright. yt. 8. The snow is now ten inches deep, accumulating by frosts. Jan. 12. Singular appearance of three distinct halos or luminous rings about the moon appeared this evening at 9.30 p. m., and continued one hour ; the moon formed the center of the middle ring ; the other two, which lay north and south of the moon, h:id each of them a limb passing through the moon's center and projecting north and sou^h ; a semidiameter beyond (/. jo^) the middle ring, to which last they were etjual in dimensions, each ring appearing to extend [subtend, Clark C 21^,] an angle of is"^ of a great circle. /an. 15. A total eclipse of the moon last night visible here, but partially obscured by the CiOuds. Jan. 19. Ice now three feet thick on the most rapid part of the river. Jan. 23. The snow fell about four inches deep last night ; it continues to snow to-day. It frequently happens that the sun rises fair, and in about 15 or 20 minutes it becomes suddenly turbid, as if the moon had some chemical effect on the atmosphere. Jan. 31. The snow fell two inches last night. /''t-d. 8. The black-and-white speckled woodp-^cker [Piit4S -■i/losus'] has returned, Fc/>. 14. Mar. 2. broken up. May. 3. Mar. 12. Mar. 19. The snow fell three inches deep last night. The snow has disappeared in many places ; the river is partially A flock of ducks passed up the river this morning. Snow but slight ; disappeared to-day. But little snow, not enough to cover the ground. Collected some roots, herbs, and plants, in order to send by the boat, par- ticularly the root said to cure the bite of a mad dog and rattlesnake. The Indians raise a kind of artichoke, which they say is common in the prai- ries ; it is well tasted. Mar. 21. Some ducks in the river opposite the fort. Mar. 24. But little snow. UTar. 25. A flock of swan returned < Jay ; the ice in the river has given way in many places, and it is with difficulty it can be passed. Mar. 26. The ice gave way in the river about 3 p. m., and came down in immense sheets ; it was very near destroying our new canoes ; some geese passed. iP- S^S) ■«''/'"■. 27. The first insect I have seen was a large black gnat to-day ; the ice is drifting in great quantities. Mar. 2S, Ice abates in quantity ; wind hard ; river rises 13 inches, and falls 12 inches. Mar. 29. A variety of insects make their appearance, as flies, bugs, etc. The ice ceases to run ; it is supposed to have formed an obstruction above. Mar. 30. The ice comes down in great quantities ; the Mandans take some floating buffalo. •mm pw^aw REMARKS AND RKFLECTIONS. Ducks and geese passing ; the ice abates in quantity 1287 Mar. . , 1 . ,. , ", . ' " ' ■■■■' ""*• """'<;» 11 quantity. Ap>. I A hne refreshing shower of rain fell about 2 p. m This was Hi. fallen m small quantities, and was noticed in the diary of the weather The cloud came from the west and was attended by hard thunder and I h tube I have observed that all thunder-clouds in the western oart of Z \ '"'"«^' ^ ceed from the westerly quarter, as they do n he AtLnt c St L" Th "^ '"" retnarkably dry and pure in this open country ; there is very' Ue rain o "■ " euher winter or summer. The atmosphere' is n.or Z'spTlZl ^1 observed it in any country through which I have passed b^to break the winds from \e riL/tte r:; on' ^Th ^rti^ll:; pi ns wholly destitute of timber, the winds blow with astonishing v Z Tn this open country, and form a great obstruction to the navigation of t le Mis United States usually associate in large flocks J^ ^Z^^^:^ Z ^ cherr rehards and in winter, in the lower parts of Maryland and V rg n L f " dark bro f I ' "'"• '' " '^'"^" bluish-brown bird, crested wifh a t^ of da k brown feathers, with a narrow black stripe passing on each s de of he head underneath the eye. from the base of the upper belk to the b ck o tt head; it is d stinguished more particularly by some of the shonertathe s o s^sSgVax';' ''' '''-' ^'' -' ''-'- -^'^^ '-^ "-^ ^>^e a'rpt^n:; the^'l'v^h- Dlfl'^T t^^^'"*'^^ -^'"^'Z-"^] ^nd large hawk have returned • the only birds hat I observed during the winter at Fort Mandan were the Mis' o^n magpie [/>/.. ^,V. ,«,,,,„,,.]. a bird of the genus G..«, th ra n [Co> .us canar.rus] in immense numbers, the small woodpecker [/V... ..7W^ o:ra?retrd"s^^'7dT"'T"''^'^-''^'^""''^"'-^''^^^^ or calumet-b rd so called from the circumstance of the natives decorating their pipe-stemswith its plumage, and the prairie-hen or grouse [/>..,w7Jl;:;: todfv'".^;. '^^' ''"''' \Corvus americanus-\ have also returned ; saw the first to-day ; the mosquitoes revisit us ; saw several of them cXiuTJ^L T ^""'T^'f "'^""-'^ --]. bald eagle Waliaetus leuco- cepiuUu..l and the large plover iSquatarola helvetiaA have returned • the srr.« begins to spring up. and the leaf-buds of the willow to appeir ' ' Apr. II. The lark-woodpecker,' with yellow wings and a black spot on the J 1288 METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER. I|:|| -' i /! '. r L '■'/i t h\ iM breast, common to the United States, has appeared, with sundry small birds. Many plants begin to appear above the ground ; saw a large white gull to-day ; the eagles are now laying their eggs, and the geese have mated. The elm, large-leaved willow, (/. joj) and the bush which bears a red berry is in bloom. A/>r. 13. The leaves of the choke-cherry are about half grown ; the cotton- wood is in bloom ; the flower of this tree resembles that of Ihe aspin [aspen] in form, and is of a deep purple color. /Ipr. 15. Several flocks of white brant [C/ien hyperhorcus\ with black wings pass us to-day, on their flight to the northwest ; the trees now begin to assume a green appearance, though the earth at the depth of about three feet is not yet thawed, which we discover by the banks of the river falling in and disclosing a strata [stratum] of frozen earth. Apr. 16. Saw the first leather-wing bat ; it appeared about the size of those common to the United States. Apr. 18. A heavy dew this morning, which is the first and only one we have seen since we passed the Council bluffs last summer ; there is but little dew in this open country. Saw a flock of pelicans \_Pckcanus erylhrorkynchus] pass from southwest to northeast ; they appeared to be on a long flight. Apr. 19. The trees have now put forth their leaves ; the gooseberries, cur- rant, strvice-berries, and wild plums are in bloom. Apr. 2ii. White frost last night ; the earth frozen along the water's edge. Apr. 22. Saw the first robin [Merula migratoria], also the brown curlew \JVumenius longirostris]. Apr. 23. Vegetation has progressed but little since the i8th ; in short, the change is scarcely perceptible. May 2. The wind continued so violent from twelve o'clock yesterday, until five o'clock this evening, that we were unable to proceed ; the snow which fell last night and this morning has not yet disappeared ; it forms a singular contrast with the trees which are now in leaf. May 3. At 4 p. m. the snow had not yet entirely disappeared ; the new horns of the elk begin to appear. May 4. The snow has disappeared ; saw the first grasshop- {p. jo6) pers to-day ; there are great quantities of a small blue beetle feeding on the willows. May 8. The bald eagle, of which there are great numbers, now have their young ; the turtle-dove [Zenaiditra caroUnensis] appears. May 9. The choke-cherry is now in bloom. May 17. The geese have their young ; the elk begin to produce their young ; the antelope and deer as yet have not ; the small species of whippoorwill [Phalicnoptiltts nutiallt] begins to cry ; blackbirds, both large and small [ScoU- cophagus cyanocephalits and Molothrus ater\ have appeared. We have had scarcely any thunder and lightning ; the clouds are generally white and accom- panied with wind only. May 18. Saw the wild rose in bloom. The brown thrush or mocking-bird has appeared ; had a good shower of rain to-day ; it continued about two hours ; this is the first shower that deserves the appellation of rain, which we have seen since we left Fort Mandan ; no thunder. REMARKS AND Rr:FI,ECTIONS. 1289 Afay 2». Saw some particles of snow fall to-day which did nof li. in c ec • quantity on the ground to be perceptible " '" '"^^'"^"' M<'y25. Saw the king-bird or bee-martin [7>n,«««. r«,W/««„/,l . .u, grouse disappear ; killed three of the bighorn animals. -■ ' A/ay2(>. Last night was much the warmest that u,^ i,o„ ^i"iy 26. A slight thunder-storm ; the air was turhiH in t»,„ t ..r.«. «r.//,«.,,,;„„] near the entrance of Maria's river ^ pi^Zln"toI'''?;T''^"i'''''"^ '°'''' ^'^''- y°""^= 'l^*^ y°""g -es- pies t)egm to fly. The brown and grizzly bears begin to copulate ai:;^ed tu r Jihi!:rL^Se::^;^r:;d 1^^:^-^' t °"' The had which was generally about the size of pigeons' eggs and not unlil. them m torm, covered the ground to one inch and a half for about 2olin, dunng this storm hail fell of an enormous size, with violence atao ncZb " W^hen e ha. stones struck the ground, they would rebound to trhe ighT o he menT H ^l T' "'"'' '^"^ ^''^'^' P"-"' "^ "'^ «"«« on the portage- he men saved themselves, some by getting under a canoe, others by puttL undn. articles on (/.^«^) their heads ; two were knocked down, an 1 seven ad stones, which weighed 3 ounces and measured 7 inches in circumference • thev were generally round and perfectly solid. We are convinced that i one o^ tee had struck a man on his naked head, it would certainly have fractured his skull Young blackbirds are abundant and beginning to fly My 6. A heavy wind from the southwest, attended with rain about the 1290 METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER. I f middle of the last night ; about day [break] had a violent thunderstorm, attended with hail and rain : the hail covered the ground, and was near the size of musket-balls ; one blacl jird was killed with the hail ; I am astonished that more have not suffered in a similar manner, as they are abundant, and I should suppose the hailstones sufficiently heavy to kill them. --/«;'. 7. The river which we are now ascending is so inconsiderable, and the current so much of [at] a stand, that I relinquished paying further attention to its state. Aitif. 21.* Most astonishing was the difference between the height of the mer- cury at sunrise and at 4 p. m. There was the difference of 59 degrees, and this in the space of eight hours ; yet we experience this wonderful transition without feeling it nearly so sensibly as we should have expected. Mn: 3. A thick fog continued until twelve o'clock, at which time it cleared off and was fair the remainder of the day. JVov. 5. Commenced raining at 2 p. ra. and continued at intervals all day ; saw 14 striped snakes. AW. 7. A thick fog this morning, which continued until 11 a. m., at which time it cleared off and con- (/. jog) tinued fair about two hours, and then began to rain ; several showers during the evening. A'o~'. 12. Violent wind from the southwest, accompanied with hail, thunder, and lightning ; the thunder excessively loud ; this continued from 3 till 6 a. m., when it cleared off for a short time ; afterward a heavy rain succeeded, which lasted until twelve o'clock, when it cleared off for an hour, and again became cloudy. Rain has been pretty generally falling since the 7th inst. A'ov. 15. The after part of this day is fair and calm, for the first time since the I2th inst.; no rain. JVov. 20. Rained moderately from 6 a. m. until i p. m. on the 2ist, after which it became cloudy without rain. A'oz. 22. The wind violent from the S.S.E., throwing the water of the river over our camp, and rain continued all day. AW. 26. Rained all day ; some hard showers ; wind not so hard as it has been for a few days past ; some rain on the morning of the 23d and night of the 24th inst. A/'ov. 27. Rained moderately all day ; a hard wind from the southwest, which compelled us to lie-by on the isthmus of Point William on the south side. AW. 28. The wind, which was from the southwest, shifted in the after part of the day to the northwest, and blew a storm which was tremendous ; it rained all the last night and to-day without intermission. JVov. 29. Rained all last night hard, and to-day moderately. AW. 30. Rained and hailed at intervals throughout last night ; some thun- der and lightning. £>e,: 3. Fair from 12 to 2 p. m. ; rained all the last night and this morning; rained the night of the ist and the morning of the 2d, and cloudy the remainder ' We h.ive the remarks belonging to the Weather Diary for the rem.iinder of August and the whole of September and October, but they are rery brief, and hardly justify interpolation in the te.xt. At next date, Nov. 3, the Expedition is approaching the mouth of the Columbia. Ii ' M RKMAKKS AND KEFLLCTIOXS. I291 I'l':;; LTiiir, :,r" "■' °'«"' " '" " '»"■■ -"* «-»•■ '-. e.h and all day ,h, „h Ins" ' "" '■'™" "»" »' ">« "W" »' 'l«^^ ^^JO... .,. Rained a, shor. InUrval, ,ro„ ,h. ,o,h l„„. „„,„ , ., „, ,„. acl'pald wtlrj""""' '"■*^ """ "'"'' >•■»'"■ "<>■» .»= so„,hw.„, i^fX%lT '"' """"• •"" =™"" ='""'" ->' "»» "- -in „.ls e.e„- ^;'' ^^ ,^^!"'? ^' '"'^'■^^'^ '««' night and to-day. Snake seen .M^ta^Xt:!™;-^- ■— .*.- .o.da,; r Ha. .a,„ r=gr,.. I „„ confidl, ,L,T r J "">■ "'""°»>"" I "osl sincerely pamllel of la" .ude on he I Ian?™" ' " T'" '"""" "'™ '» "« ™' o»> of my pot „„ d°, 11. i ■ "^'' '"" """>■ """«"=» i' '' ""^ «-e are ob,„ed ,0 cure our mea, „UH smo.-e' and fLe r;*; i)', ri" 'r': .1 ! < t2g2 MKTKOROI.OOrCAI, UKCISTKR. Mil parcels by depcinling on the air to preserve it, ihoiijjh it was cut in very thin ■licos aiui siidicieiitly exposcil. /•III. U). Various lii«s and [otiicrj insects now alive ami in motion. /ii«. 13. The wind from any (luartcr olT the land or alonjj ilic northwest coast causes the air to l)cct)mc much cooler ; every species of water-fowl com- mon to this country, at any season of the year, continues with us. Jiin. 14. Weather perfectly temperate ; I never experienced a winter so warm as the present has been. /•III. 33. When the sun is said to shine, or the weather to be fair, it is to be unilerstood that the sun barely casts a shadow, and that the atmosphere is hazy, of a milky-white color. (A J'-') y"'» ^S- It is now perceptibly colder than it h.is been this winter. Jiin. 3(>. The snow this evening is ^'/i inches deep ; the icicles continue si'speniled from the e.ives of the houses during the day ; it now apjiears some- thing lilce winter, for the first time this season. /,in. 27. The sun shone more brightly this morning than it has done since our arrival at this place ; the snow since 4 p. m. yesterday has increased to the depth of () inches, .md this morning is perceptibly the colde ' that we have had. I suspect the mercury would stand at 20° above zero ; the breath is p-jrceptible in our room by the lire. y./M. 28. Last night exposed a vessel of water to the a'r, with a view to dij. covc^ the depth to which it would freeze in the course of the night, but unfor- tunately the vessel was only two inches deep, and it friezcd [frozel the whole thickness ; how much more it might have frozen had the vessel been deeper is therefore out of my power to decide ; it is the coldest night we have had, and I suppose the mercury this morning would have stood as low as 15° above zero. y,iii. 31. Notwithstanding the cold weather, the swan, white brant, geese, and ducks still continue with us ; the sand-hill crane also continues ; the brown or speckted brant are mostly gone, though some few are still to be seen ; the cormorant and a variety of other water-fowls still remain. The winds from the land bring us cold and clear weather, while those obliquely along either coast or off the ocean brings us warm, damp, cloudy, and rainy weather ; the hardest winds are always from the southwest. The blue-crested corvus [Cy,uwcitla stcllfi-i ] has already begun to build its nest ; the nest is formed of small sticks, usually in a pine-tree. (P-J'S) y-''- 3- The rain, which fell in the Latter part of the night, froze, and made a slight incrustation on the snow, which fell some days past, and also on the boughs of the trees; yesterday it continued fair until 11 a. m., when the wind veered about to southwest, and the horizon was immediately overcast with clouds, as uniformly takes place when the wind is from that point. Feb. 4. All the water-fowls before enumerated continue with us ; the birds [liespcrotic/ila ttu-.iu] which resemble the robin have visited us in small num- bers ; saw two of them yesterday about the fort ; they are gentle. Fef>. 8. The rain of last night has melted down the snow, which has con- tinued to cover the ground since Jan. 24th ; the feeling of the air and other appearances seem to indicate that the rigor of winter has passed ; it is so warm RKMAKKS AM) KKl. LKCTIONS. 1293 tha we are apprehennive our meat will ,poiI, wc therefore cut it in small piece, -"J hauK it separately ..„ sticks. Saw a M„„.ber ..f insects ilyi„« a,.I ' , , , .null brown . yca.d.er continues witU us ; this is the smal J of' „ A,,.,, " hirds except the hunimini; liircl. '""<-ntan />*. 15. The robin has rclurne-l an.l is sinuinjj. which reminds us of "prin^; some other small birds passed on their .li«ht'from the Jt but were so h.,h that we could not distinguish of what kind they were; the obi^hac left this place before our arrival in November. /••'/'. •«. At n a m. it became fair, and the insects were flying about at half past 12 o'clock it cloudeil up an.l began to rain F^ 2^. Much warmer this m..rning than usual ; aquatic and other birds the an r "7""""'"' "'"'""" "'' '"* ^"" ' ""= '*'"^«-" ""'^ « «-■«" 'i^'' "l,r y. It became cloudy at 10 a. m. .-,„d rained, attended with some tin,;, r ''■,"'•■ " u'"""' ^''"'■' '"'' '^' ^'"'' '^'^'"'^'"g t" northeast, it con- evenfng '""^ "'^''' ' '''' '"°" "'' '''" '^'^^PP^^'-^'^ by 4 p. m. this Mar. 12. It was fair in the morning, but became cloudy at 3 p. m. .nd continued so during the day. ' -^ » Mr. 8. The male flowers of the cottonwood are falling ; tbd gooseberry has cast the petals of its flowers, and its leaves have obtained their ful), -iie ; the elder which is remarkably large, has begun to bloom ; some of ity flowerets "i M.ir. 23d the p.Arty started back up the Columbia. " The hiimminjT-bird of the " United States " r7">-Ct/;/7H,f colnbris] docs not occur on the Pacific coast. The species ol)servcd \v.is probably SelasJ>/iorus rufus. ■1'W > M». RE.NrARKS AM) KKFLECTIOXS. '295 have expanded their corollas ; service-berrip« ri„,u i tain-holly, the strawberry, the bears clvth"'' ■' ''''"" '"°""' striped [so Lewis V ,5. if and th^^id :'::^ c:;'u.::;:^;;:;.f ^'"'^'' ^°'""-" ^//>-. U. The {jeese are in large nocks and do not yet .pne.r to h... mte what I have heretofore termed the broad-leaved ash is Tot . / .ooT (/• j/7) the fringe-tree nas cast the oorcUa and its leaves h-,v • „ 1 . ■' their full size ; the sacacommis is in bloon,. """'^ """""' hnnf' "■ T''" ^"'^'^'■"'"''"•■"•'1 ^/""■>' ''"'•-"■>]. which breeds in ihe neighbor hood , snow lay„,g o.^^s ; vegetation is rapidly progressing i„ , e Zto" ough the snow o yesterday and to-day reaches with^. a .nil o t .e :" i' the mountains at the rapids jf the Columbia. .-t/'r. 16. At Rock-fort canii) saw the nriir;/. in.i, „ ■ , , .ho .„,.«., „.,„ [....i,,,,»r:,r;;::;:i:::'r:; :;s:'::. ■■'/"■■ ^(>- The last evening was cloudy; it continued to threaten r.in all n.gh . but without raining ; the wind blew hard all night • the JrZ co d .t IS invariably when it sets from the westerly quarter ' ' M"y I. Having left the river we could no longer observe its state • if ,•« now declining though it has not been as high this season by .ive e t a i app to have been the last spring ; the Indians inform us that it will r se i^hL this month, which I presume is caused by the snows of the mlmtrins. ''" '" last evening """'"" °" °" "'''' "^"^ '° ^'''^^ '^^'^ -> '--ase of snow M.y 10 It began to rain and hail about sunset, shortly after succeeded by snow, which continued to fall without intermission until 7 a. m and av dl^ HKhes deep on the plain where we were ; the air was very keen. A^id '„ ' mer . af er q a m. the sun shone, but was frequently obscured by clouds which Xen^ oLrdiy-rsr '"" ^ ^'- '''' ^°"'°" '° '^ ^"-■■p-" ^y '>- May II.' The crimson haw is not more forward now at this place than it was when we lay at Rock-fort camp in April ^ .)/.>■ 20. A nest of the large blue or sand-hill crane [Cn,s ra„M:.->.] was ound by one of our hunters; the young were in the act of leaving h the young of the party-colored corvus begin to fly " ' annT ■" "■ r^ 'u "'• '"' ''^"'"'■'^■'^^'y '^'y '-»" J P">-e : it has much the feeling and appearnnceof the air on the plains of the Missouri ; since our arrival it Ms n .ghborhood on the 7th inst. all the rains noted in the diary of tl \ ea.I e were snows on the plain, and in some instances it snowed on'the plain " 1 only a small mist was perceptible in the bottoms at our camp. ' The station is Camp Chopiumisli, May .4th- June .uh. ij 1296 METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER. ^ \ : S f- i : 1 •/| ^-y 27. The dove [Ze>iau/,n-a carolincnsis] is cooing, which is the signal as the Indians inform us, of the approach of the salmon. The snow has disa,)' peared on the high plains, and seems to be diminishing fast on the spurs and lower regions of the Rocky mountains. ^fay 28. The river from sunrise yesterday to sunrise this morning rose 22 mches; drift-wood is running in considerable quantities, and the current is incredibly swift, though smooth. May 29. The river rose 6 inches in the course of yesterday, and 1 7 inches in the course of last night ; it is now as high as there are any marks of its having been in the spring of 1805 ; at 10 a. m. it arrived at its greatest height, having risen i>^ inches from sunrise to that time ; in the balance of the day it fell 7 inches. I he natives inform us that it will take one more rise before it begins to subsida for the season, and then the passage of the mountains will be prac- ticable. '^ May 30. The river continued to fall until 4 a. m.. having fallen 3 inches by hat time since sunrise ; (/. j/9) it was now at a stand until dark ; after which it began again to rise. June 2. The river from sunrise until 10 a. m. yesterday rose iV, inches from that time until dark fell 4^ inches, and in the course of last night rose again 8 inches ; the Indians inform us that the present rise is the greatest which It annually takes ; that when the water subsides to about the height it was at the time we arrived here the mountains will be passable. I have no doubt that the melting of the mountain snows in the beginning of June is what causes the annual inundation of the lower portion of the Missouri from the ist to the mid- die of July. /««M. Yesterday the water was at its greatest height at noon ; between that time and dark it fell 15 inches, and in the course of the night rose i/, inches ; from Indian information the water will now subside, and may therefo'-e be said to be at its greatest annual height on the 3d inst. at noon June 5 The river fell 3^ inches in the course of the day ; this fluctuating state of the river is no doubt caused by the influence of the sun in the course of the day on the snows on the mountains ; the accession of water thus caused in the day does not reach us until night, when it produces a rise in the river The nver fell 10 inches in the course of this day. The wild rose is in bloom June 6. In the course of last night the river rose a little, but fell an mch by morning lower than it was last evening; the seven-bark and yellow" vining honeysuckle are just in bloom ; a few of the does have produced their young _ June 7. The river fell 3 inches last night and 7 yesterday ; the gooseberry IS fully grown ; also the service-berry. (/• J^o) June 10. The river fell i inch last night and 5K yesterdav • it appears to be falling fast, and in the course of a few davs will be as Imv as It was when we first arrived here ; it is now about six feet lower than it has been. June 16. On the top of the hills the dog-toothed violet is just in bloom • grass IS about two inches high ; small huckleberry is just putting forth its leaves' June 22. Strawberries are ripe at the Quamash flats ; they are but small and not abundant. •V i REMARKS AND REFLECTIONS. appear. '' '^''''' ^^" '^' ^^' b^^^O'"" cool, and they dis- f-the"„on.:r'lc:,"::!;:H P^:- -/-.-'^^'^le or which a violent wi„d Qua,nash in the p ins atThe ";;; wtd "'"' '"• '' '"" ' ""'" ^^^ P" '"■ and the grass is about sil inches high ""' " ^"' '^^'""'"^ ^° •^'-'"• th/fs. W. ^ '"'" ^'°"" °^ ^^'" ^^ ^ - -• -- -companied with wind fron, we^rtot 4l'57:'°"" °' "'" "'^^ ■^"^^^'"P-'^^ -^''^ -n'i ^^ the south- ontheadiacent.o:„;trurr^\tt\re"^^= '^ '' ^^ ^ .^;e;::U^Sh- ^tS^Sr = '^-'^--~^ ^-hree. retifedTm-^:tfterdattd'd!irt'"; "''''= ^'^ ^'^ ^°°' = ^^^ ---^"'-s >// 17. A heavy sorrolinacl"" ""• '^'°"' ^" '^"^ ^"^^ -""-■ n^n. at . a. ... wit^h ha^r^i^dZ^rrh: Ir ,t";he ^^^^^ -' '''" It cleared away and became fair "tnwest , after the shower was over •/-•«».] ar. axlremely numerous aTd l,,v, S , "^^'''-PIK" [C.'/*/.'"., which time i, ,hu„d„ed and hlen j tJ '!"' T'» '"»» ' •» = P- ">■• « .5 inches, and .he „a.e, was of ^JhtX ' ""■"'■ ""'" ""' ''-" [so Clark M .jjj. *'"" '" "'»"' 3 >■<»•" l»s> nigh,, from , ,o 3 a. „. oM^rilt: rS!,:; tr; lo'^ ■ '' '' f' '"' "■"' """ "" "'«- »PP-™~ southwest. ' ■* "■ "■■ '"* "'«'■">' ■ "•= "in" "olem from the w.<;i;;:Le';T„;teX°' ?h: :i'"' "'r "°" "- »""• ^" -•^- muddy. "^^ '^''= '""«''" on «»='>».:e are high and the water Tdr,a,^js;::^*ni:::j;^rhr "" '"" •'= -"""- 1298 METKOROLOGICAI- REGISTER. July 28. A few drops of rain a little before daylight. River still falling a little. (/■ 5^2) J>'h' 29. A few dropj of rain accompanied with hard peals of thunder and sharp lightning last night ; wind hard from the northeast. July 30. A slight shower of rain accompanied with thunder and lightning ; several showers in the course of this day ; it cleared away in the evening nnd betame fair. River falling a little. Great quantities of coal in the bluffs on either side. July 31. The wind blew hard and it was showery all day, though there was not much rain ; the clouds came up from the west and northwest frequently in the course of the day. Aug. 22.'-' The rains which have fallen this month are most commonly from flying clouds which pass in different directions ; these clouds are always accjm- panied with hard winds, and sometimes with thunder and lightning. The river has been falling moderately since the 3d of the month ; the rains have made no other impression on the river than causing it to be more muddy, and probably preventing its falling fast. " Sept. \. A thick fog until 8 A.M. a fiew drops of r.iin about i P.M. Sept. 2. Hard wind all day. Saw the prarie fowl common in the Illinois plains. Saw Linn [linden] and slipery elm. Sept. 3. A stiff breeze from S.E. iintill 12 at night when it changed to S.W. and blew hard all night. Sept. 5. At 6 P.M. a violent storm of Thunder Lightning and rain untill 10 P.M. when it ceased to rain and blew h.ird from N.W. untill 3 A.AL Sept. 6. Heard the whipperwill common to the UStates at Soldiers river. Sept. 7. Saw the whiperwill and heard the common hooting owl Musquetoes very trouble- som. killed 3 Elk. Sept. 8. Wormest day we have experienced in this year. Passed River Piatt. Sept. II, A fiew drops of rain only a little before day, and some rain at 1 P.M. Sept. 12. Heavy dew this morning and fog. Some rain from 12 to 4 P.M. Sept. 15. Day very worm smokey and worm. Sept. 16. This day very sultry and n\iich the hott'^st we have e.\perenced. Sept. 17. Day worm, but fiew musquetoes. Sept. ig. Saw a green snake as high up as Salt River on the Missouri. The limestone bluffs commences below Salt river on S. side. Sept. 21. A slight shower of rain a little before day light this morning. Sept. 22. At St. Ch.arles the raine commenced about q P.AL and was moderate untill 4 A.M. when when it increased and rained without intermition untill 10 A. M: Some Thunder and lightning about day light, it continud cloudy with small showers of rain all day. Weaiived at the Mitsissippi. Sept. 23. At St. Louis several light showers in the cour'-e of this day. Wc arived at St. Louis at 12 oClock. Sept. 24. Rained moderately this morning and continud cloudy with moderate rain at intervals all day. Sept. 26. Fair and worm. Sept. 27, Emencely worm. Sept. 28. Do. Sept. 29. Do. Sept. 30. Dc— Clark N 151, 152. END OF VOL. III. x:*\ 1%. ¥ I