™(0Cc0a and
(hocolate

A short history of their production and use.

Dorchester, Mass.

Walter Baker & Co. Limited.

Class

Book. 4 =. Bis.

1904
pare

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT:

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‘“SSVW NOLTIN GNY YHHLSHHOYOd LV STTIN S.,OO ¥ YANVA YALIVA AO MAEA HAA-S quid

Cocoa and Chocolate

A short listory of their

production and use
Revised Edition

With numerous illustrations of the Cocoa Tree and its products; and of Walter

Baker & Co.’s manufactory, the oldest and largest establishment

of its kind on this continent

DORCHESTER, MASS.

Walter Baker & Co. Limited
1904

LIBRARY of CONSRESS}
| Two Gopies tecewea |

Copyright, 1904,

° 2 ti
By WALTER BAKER & ComMPANY LTD.
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PREFATORY NOTE.

HIS publication is made up in part of original matter and in part
ih of matter reprinted from three of our previous publications, now
out of print, namely: ‘‘ Cocoa and Chocolate: A Short History
of Their Production and Use,” —a 12mo of 152 pages, published in
1886; ‘* The Chocolate Plant and Its Products,” —a small 4to of 40
pages, published in 1891; and ‘ Cocoa and Chocolate: A Short His-
tory of Their Production and Use,” a quarto of 72 pages, first printed
in 1899 and reprinted in 1901. Copies of them can be found in many
of the public and school libraries in the United States.

We have included in this work some. new views of our mills and
workrooms, and also some engravings from photographs taken in the
West Indies and in Ceylon, showing the present methods of gathering
and curing the fruit of the cocoa tree.

As even the standard dictionaries fail to give the exact meanings of

’

the words ‘‘ cocoa” and ‘‘ chocolate,” we give here an accurate defini-

tion of those jerms.—

Cocoa. — The commercial name given (1) to the seeds of the small tropical
tree known to botanists as Zheobroma Cacao; (2) to the cracked or coarsely
ground product of the roasted seeds, sometimes designated more particularly as
“cocoa nibs,” or “cracked cocoa’; (3) to the finely pulverized product of the
roasted seeds from which a portion of the fat has been removed, sometimes des-

ignated as “ breakfast cocoa”’ or “ powdered cocoa.”

CHocoLATE. — (1) The solid or plastic mass produced by grinding to fineness
the kernel of the roasted seeds of Z/eobroma Cacao without removing any of the
fat, sometimes called “plain chocolate” or “bitter chocolate” ; (2) the same
product to which have been added sugar and various flavoring substances, some-

times known as “sweet chocolate” or “ vanilla chocolate.”

WALTER BAKER & CO. Lrp.

REGISTERED TRADE-MARK

WALTER BAKER & CO. LTD

Copied from Liotard’s famous painting of “ La Belle Chocolatiére

5

in the Dresden Gallery.|

OV

Pec Oor AND CHOCOLAT E.

f.
PRODUCTION AND CONSUMPTION.

URING the last twenty-five years the consumption of cocoa in
1) various forms has increased to an extraordinary extent not
only in this country, but in the United Kingdom and Germany
—countries in which the greatest progress is being made in the science
of nutrition, and in the inventions which have done so much to cheapen
the cost and improve the quality of articles of food. This increase in
consumption is due to several causes, among the most prominent of
which are (1) a reduction in the retail price, bringing it within the
means of the poorer classes; (2) a more general recognition of the
value of cocoa as an article of food, and (3) improvements in methods
of preparation, by which it is adapted to the wants of the different

classes of consumers.

There is no doubt that, if it had not been for the monopoly of the
production which Spain long possessed, and which kept the price, on
its introduction into England, at a point where only the rich could
afford to buy it, cocoa would have come into as general use there as it
did in Spain, and would, perhaps, have been received with more favor
than tea or coffee, which were introduced about the same time.

It appears that, in the time of Charles II., the price of the best
chocolate (very crude undoubtedly, as compared with the present
manufactures) was 6s. 8d. a pound, which, if we take into account the
greater purchasing power of money at that time, would be equal to at
least $5.00 a pound at this time for a very coarse article.

Humboldt estimated the consumption of cocoa in Europe, in 1806,
as 23,000,000 pounds per annum, of which from 6,000,000 to 9,000,000
were supposed to be consumed in Spain. The estimated consumption
in Europe at the present time is over 170,000,000 pounds.

vA

8 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

A recent estimate of the total amount of crude cocoa exported from
the tropical regions in which it is grown, based partly on official figures
and partly on expert estimates, is about 252,000,000 pounds per annum.
Guayaquil, Ecuador, heads the list of exports with about 48,500,000
pounds. The African crop has been greatly developed within a few
years, and now amounts to over 47,000,000 pounds. Brazil comes
next with about 35,000,000 pounds. The British island of Trinidad was
one of the largest exporters a few years ago, but it now comes fourth
on the list with 30,500,000 pounds. Venezuela furnishes over 20,000,-
000 pounds of a very fine quality of cocoa, known to commerce as the
Caracas. The other countries from which supplies are obtained are:
Dutch Guiana, Colombia, Peru, Cuba, Haiti, Santo Domingo, Jamaica,
Ceylon, and Java.

In the United Kingdom the amount consumed in 1831 was only \4 of
an ounce for each inhabitant. In 1902 it had risen to about 17 ounces
—that is about 45,500,000 pounds. The percentage of increase since
1860 has been much greater than that of tea or coffee. In that year
the consumption of tea was 2.67 pounds for each inhabitant; of coffee,
1.23 pounds; of cocoa, 2 ounces. In 1903, the consumption of tea
was 6.03 pounds for each inhabitant; of coffee, only 12 ounces; of
cocoa, about 17 ounces. It appears from this that in Great Britain and
lreland cocoa is actually taking the place of cottee, the per capita use
of the former having increased about 750 per cent., while the per
capita use of the latter has greatly decreased.

In the United States the increased consumption of cocoa in recent
years has been even more striking. The amount retained for home
consumption in 1860 was only 1,181,054 pounds, or 35 of an ounce for
each inhabitant. The average annual consumption for the three years,
IQOI, 1902, and 1903, amounted to 54,106,082 pounds, ! an increase in
forty-two years of 4.481 per cent. This percentage of increase is much
greater than the increase during the same period in the consumption of

I These are the Custom House returns for the year ending December 31st.

PRODUCTION AND CONSUMPTION. 9

coffee and tea. In 1860, the consumption of coffee per capita was
5-79 pounds; in 1903 it was 10.79 pounds. The consumption of tea
in 1860 was about 1314 ounces per capita; in 1903 it was 1.30 pounds.
The consumption of cocoa had risen during the same period from *% of
an ounce to about 12 ounces per capita.

With this increase of consumption has come a corresponding increase
in the use of adulterants and the introduction of a. great variety of
dishonest methods for substituting inferior goods for those of standard
quality. Something has been done through local legislation to protect
consumers, but much remains to be done in the way of securing uni-
formity in the definition of standards and providing for a systematic and
intelligent enforcement of the pure food laws. In some of the States
the commissioners or other authorities having charge of the matter
have furnished, through their annual reports, valuable information in
regard to the quality of the various food products put upon the market.
It is well worth noting in this connection that in the seventh and eighth
annual reports of the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station
(1902 and 1903) cocoa and chocolate products are analyzed and their
food value defined in a very thorough and comprehensive manner.
While awaiting more effective legislation to prevent the sale of adul-
terated and misbranded goods, consumers can best protect themselves
by taking only those articles which bear the names of well-known

manufacturers whose products can be depended upon.

Jit
THE, COCOA TREE AND Tis PRUE.

(** Theobroma Cacao.” )

HE term ‘‘ cocoa” is a corruption of ‘‘ cacao,” but is almost uni-

versally used in English-speaking countries. The cacao tree

belongs to the natural order of Sterculiacee, a family of about

41 genera and 521 species, inhabiting the warmer regions of the world.

None of them grow naturally in our climate or in Europe, and, except-

ing the little yellow-flowered Mahernia, they are very seldom seen in
our conservatories.

The first references to the tree and its products are found in the
accounts of the explorers and conquerors who followed Columbus.
Their descriptions are remarkably accurate in all essential particulars.
One of the earliest, if not indeed the very earliest, delineations of the
tree is in a rare volume by Bontekoe.!. The engraving, which is here

! The figure in the left of the foreground is said by Bontekoe to represent the native method of procuring fire by

rapidly twirling a pointed stick in a groove of a piece of wood placed on the ground

fe)

Hae COCOA TREE AND 17S FRUIT II

reproduced, represents it with its comparatively large fruits or pods
borne on the main stem. This might be thought at first to be an error
of the artist, but it is in fact a rude expression of one of the most
remarkable peculiarities of the plant. As will be shown presently,
when a fuller description is given, the fruits are, as a rule, formed
on the older parts. The engraving shows that the cocoa tree is shel-
tered by a larger tree of some other kind near it. This practise of
planting a sheltering tree to shade the young cocoa tree for a time is
still kept up wherever the plant is
successfully cultivated. It is cer-
tainly interesting that this point in
cultivation, which might easily have
been thought to be accidental or
local; was delineated more than
three centuries ago.

The seeds of the tree are borne
in pods, which are irregular and
angular in shape, much like some
forms of cucumbers, but more

pointed at the lower extremity, and

more distinctly grooved. These

THE COCOA TREE.

pods measure in length nine inches
to a foot, or even more, and about half as much in diameter.

green, becoming later dark yellow or

The color, when young, is
yellowish brown. The rind is thick and tough. The pods are
filled with closely packed ‘‘ beans,” or seeds, embedded in a
mass of cellular tissue, sometimes of pleasant subacid taste. The
seeds are about as large as ordinary almonds, whitish when
fresh, and of a disagreeable bitter taste. When dried they become
brown.

The fruits are about four months in ripening; but they appear and

mature the whole year through. In point of fact, however, there are

12 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

chief harvests, usually in early spring, but this is different for different
countries.

As a great many erroneous statements have been made in regard to
the average yield of cocoa plantations, from which we draw our supplies
of crude cocoa, we have been at some pains to procure accurate infor-
mation on that point for a period of five years.

Taking twelve cocoa estates in Surinam, containing 1,354 hec-

ta)

fares, or. 3,385 “acres, the crop during ‘the .yeats 1397-10 a0:
inclusive amounted to 3,672,283 kilos, or 8,079,023 pounds. The
crops varied for the different years from 1,263,426 pounds to 2,174,639
pounds. The average yield per acre per year was 47734409 pounds.
On the basis of 200 trees to the acre this would show an average yield
of about 214 pounds toatree. By actual count of seven pods taken with-
out selection it was found
that the average number of
beans in a pod was 38.

In an essay (1902) on
the cultivation of cacao,
for the use of planters in
the Philippines, Mr. Wm.
=. Lyon, in) change of
Seed and Plant Introduc-
tion, says:

“In: Camerouns, Dr:
Preuss, a close and well-

oives

trained observer, g
the mean annual yield of
trees of full bearing age
at 4.4 pounds.

‘¢ Mr. Rousselot places
the yield on the French

Congo at the same figure.

COCOA PODS.

DE COCOA LTREE AND ITS FROTT. 13

In the Caroline Islands it reaches 5 pounds, and in Surinam, according
to M. Nichols, the average at maturity is 614 pounds.! In Mindanao,
I have been told, but do not vouch for the report, of more than ten
‘catties’ (about 12144 pounds) taken in one year from a single tree:

and, as there are well-authenticated instances of record, of single trees

PODS AND LEAVES.

having yielded as much as 30 pounds, I am not prepared to altogether
discredit the Mindanao story.”

The following statements in relation to the cultivation of the cocoa
tree and the curing of the fruit are taken from a report made in 1899
by the United States Consul General at Guayaquil, who obtained his
information largely from the Secretary of the Guayaquil Chamber
o£ Commerce.

1'This statement does not accord with the best information we have been able to obtain, namely, that the average

yield does not exceed 24% pounds to a tree

14 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

‘‘Cacao is planted from fresh seed. Four or five are put in

~

each hole, which are 5 yards apart, in rows

Formerly they were 2 or 3 yards apart, but ex-
perience has shown that this method does
not give the plant sufficient air, light, and f
nourishment.

‘©The preparation of land for a
cacao plantation consists in clearing Teed
small trees, underbrush, and weeds, but leaving
the large umbrageous trees. ~The space between
the trees is planted in corn, arrow- root, or plantains,
the latter in abundance, with the double object of
affording shade to the delicate cacao plant and pro-
ducing an immediate income. These crops are grown
until the fifth or sixth year, when the cacao has
reached a height of 8 or g feet, commences to
bear fruit, and enters upon a stage of perfect vital-
ity. Then auxiliary crops cease to be planted and the
ground as sent clear, save for the umbrageous
trees, which gen- erally stand at intervals of 40 or
50 yards. The trees usually selected are the guabo,
palo prieto, or guachepeli.
‘Tee first few years, the plant is pruned occa-
sionally, in order that it may ‘run to fruit’ more
quick- Manures have never been used, even where
the ground has been cultivated for over a century,
and no irrigation is practised. The sediment
spread over the land by the rains during the
rainy season and the decaying vegetation appear to
afford sufficient nutriment. In some haciendas, how-
ever, the proprietors pile up leaves and other vegetable

matter found in the vicinity of the tree at its foot, and

THE COCOA TREE AND ITS PROT. 15

also rub down the bark with coarse cloths to destroy the adhering
parasites.

‘‘The enemies of the cacao tree are the ardillas, the monkeys,
many species of small birds which attack the pod, and various para-
sites, all but two of which are as yet unclassified. These two are
the ‘ mosquilla’ and ‘mancha.’ Continued vigilance protects the fruit
from the parrots, animals, etc., but little has been done to extirpate
the parasites of the trunk.

‘¢In the sixth or seventh year, the tree commences to bear, but the
pods at this time are very small and scarcely repay the effort to gather
them. In the tenth year, the tree reaches full maturity. It then pro-
duces on an average 1 pound of dry cocoa of good quality. There
are many trees which produce more, especially those which are isolated,
some of which have yielded .at one picking as much as 7 or 8 pounds.
In the province of Oro (Machala), 1% to 2 pounds per tree is the esti-
mated yield. The tree is in bloom during the entire year, but most of
the blossoms fall before fructification, which occurs twice a year, the
.time varying with the locality.

‘¢ The cacao tree grows to a height of 20 or 30 feet; its leaves are
evergreen and lanceolated in form; the base of the main trunk attains
a thickness of 8 to 10 inches; the bark is hard and of greenish coffee
color. The blossom is very small, pinkish white, and waxlike in
appearance. It grows directly out of the main trunk and branches.
If it fructifies, the petals fall off, and from the stamens, in the course
of from fifty to seventy days, an oblong pod is developed. This pod
is of golden color, and contains some twenty to thirty-five grains of
cacao, enveloped in a gummy liquid, which coagulates on exposure to
air. The outer rind of this pod is dark or golden yellow in color and
very hard, a sharp instrument being necessary to cut it open. Its size
varies, according to the kind of cacao, from 8 to 15 inches long by
from 2 to 6 inches thick. The outer rind is marked by longitudinal

furrows, more or less pronounced, which indicate the interior arrange-

16

COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

ment of the seeds. Both the outer rind and the gummy contents of

the pod are porous and blacken in color as soon as picked, and in

Ecuador are of use only to fertilize the soil upon which they are cast.

« As soon as the pods begin to ripen, they are removed with pruning

knives, very sharp, and attached to the ends of long poles, which are

lengthened by joints as often as required.

th
Lil

SROUP OF NATIVE COCOA PICKERS.

a

As the twigs are very tough

e blow with this instrument must be strong and well aimed, and the

laborers must be experienced on account of the particular skill that is

required and the fatigue that attends handling heavy poles sometimes

~
+

feet long, with the face continually upturned. Wherever they cat

I~ ic

7
i

THE COCOA TREE ANDAITS FRUIT. . ny |

be reached, the pods are cut off with a machete. They are heaped in
piles by one set of laborers, while another cuts them open and extracts
the contents. A sharp pruning knife is used, and the seeds are often
damaged through carelessness. For extracting the gummy substance
and the seeds, an implement made of a beef rib is used.

‘¢'The drying is done on open platforms made of split bamboo and
palms, where the cacao is exposed to the sun during three or four days,
and, in order that it may dry uniformly and well, laborers are employed
to tread it out with bare feet. If not well dried, the bean is apt to
ferment, and if excessively dried it shrinks and, finally, turns black.
The driers are provided with covers for protection against rain.”

The different methods of fermentation are not described here. The
prime object of the sweating or fermentation appears to be to change
the inside portion of the bean by absorbing into it products obtained
from the fermenting and decomposing pulp, and where this is not
accomplished by any of the methods, the bean is classed as unfer-
mented, and the product is of lower value.

The seeds are brought into the market in their crude state, as
almond-shaped ‘‘ beans,” which differ in color and somewhat in texture.
It is not uncommon to find the external surface more or less covered
with a thin, irregular layer of attached earth, but this is almost wholly
rubbed off during transportation. Upon the color of shell and kernel,
the relative brittleness, the flavor, and the odor depend the market
value of the seeds.

The dried seeds have a papery, brittle shell, which is very smooth
on the inside, but which on the outside exhibits, under the microscope,
a few short hairs.and round excrescences. But these are mostly lost
by the rough handling and by the attrition of the seeds with one
another during transportation. The kernel consists of two large cotyle-
dons or seed-leaves, reddish gray or reddish brown, with a shining,
oily surface, the whole crushing rather easily into a loose mass of

fragments. The kernel, when dry, has a minute, tough, almost stony

18 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

radicle, which separates easily from the cotyledons. Microscopic
examination shows that the cells of the seed-leaves contain albumen,

oily matters, — sometimes in a crystalline condition, — crystals of an

entirely different shape, stasch, coloring substances in special recep-
; xs ae se *¢

GATHERING COCOA PODS.

tacles known as pigment cells, and ducts with spiral markings. The

starch grains do not have any very characteristic form or markings ;
they are generally spherical and simple. The only peculiarity worth
mentioning is the relative slowness with which they are acted upon by

hot water and by iodine. The coloring substances are mainly of a

THE COCOA TREE AND ITS FRUIT. 19

carmine or violet color, and are distinguished by the change of shade
when an alkali is added, becoming thereby darker.

These are the only structural elements which a pure powder or paste
of chocolate should show under the microscope. Any other substances
must be recognized as accidental or intentional additions.

All seeds of whatever kind contain, as a part of their substance, the
matter of which cell walls are made, namely, cellulose. The percent-
age differs in different seeds, in those of the chocolate plant being
about three in the hundred. Cellulose has the same chemical composi-
tion as starch, but its physical properties are not the same as those of
starch; among these may be mentioned its entire insolubility in boiling
water, whereas starch readily dissolves.

Starch forms, on an average, 8 to 10 per cent. of chocolate seeds.
It consists of minute spherical grains, not distinguishable from that
found in many other kinds of seeds. Traces of gum and of other
allied bodies are also present in the seeds.

Albuminoids, or substances resembling, in a general way, the albu-
men of egg, occur in chocolate seeds as they do in other seeds, and in
a somewhat higher amount than in certain other cases in which seeds
are used-as food. The percentage ranges from about 15 to 20, depend-
ing on the variety. These albuminoids are compounds of nitrogen,
and are extremely nutritious. In the seeds they occur in a readily
assimilable form, fit for digestion.

Cacao red occurs as a coloring matter in small amount. It is ren-
dered dark by alkalies.

Theobromine, the active principle of the cocoa bean, constitutes less
than 1 per cent. of the weight of the seeds, but it varies greatly in
amount in different seeds, ranging from 3%o 9 of I per cent. 1n some to
a trifle over I per cent. in others.

The ash left, on completely burning cocoa beans, is not far from
4 percent. Its composition is substantially that of the ash of seeds of

other plants.

20 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

Cocoa butter, or oil, constitutes not far from 50 per cent. of good
cocoa beans. The oil is remarkable for its freedom from rancidity
and its very bland character. Its uses are innumerable.

The following averages of many analyses by leading authorities may

be of interest : —

UNROASTED. ROASTED:
Moistiive” 20 a “nee 0s) fa a yp 7 || Mois tues oe ee ee
OD ms ces 8 ee a Se S| MOL SP es cet ee ay
Dheobromipes os. . tenet tn ee ag Je Theobramime 4... glee late 43
Starch < a) YS ee 6 VO ee 578 ol Starch. Fate 7) on on ee een nd
Gellnlose” ~ iat oo i BE ae ese eo Sel Gelluloses. vo." sc es et pes mee

Other carbohydrates, glucosides, etc. 10.05 | Other carbohydrates, glucosides, etc. 7.78

Proteintmattersas. 2 one eee seent se Oa pe LOLeIMMm acters -miome ee nen. gma
AS arith 2 oe eee ee Saieo nl Ashes 2s ce. a ee

INIMVA

ITOQOHD

HLV’

‘OOIXUN NI

Hs

21

Dit

EARLY USE OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

HE name “chocolate” is nearly the same in most European lan-

guages, and is taken from the Mexican name of the drink,

« chocolatl,” or “ cacahuatl.” A¢/ is common enough in Mexican

words, and is known to signify water. What the first part of the word

means is not so clear. A French writer says it signifies noise, and

that the drink was so named because it was beaten to a froth before
being drunk.

The Spaniards found chocolate in common use among the Mexicans
at the time of the invasion under Cortez, in 1519, and it was introduced
into Spain immediately after. The Mexicans not only used chocolate
as a staple article of food, but they used the seeds of the cacao tree as
a medium of exchange. An early writer says: ‘‘In certain provinces
called Guatimala and Soconusco there is growing a great store of cacao,
which is a berry like unto an almond. It is the best merchandise that
is in all the Indies. The Indians make drink of it, and in like man-
ner meat to eat. It goeth currently for money in any market, or fair,
and may buy flesh, fish, bread or cheese, or other things.”

In the ‘* True History of the Conquest of Mexico,” by Bernal Diaz,
an officer under Cortez, it is related that ‘‘ from time to time a liquor
prepared from cocoa and of a stimulating or corroborative quality, as
we are told, was presented to Montezuma in a golden cup. We could
not at the time see if he drank it or not, but I observed a number of
jars — above fifty — brought in and filled with foaming chocolate.”
Thomas Gage, in his ‘* New Survey of the West Indies,” first pub-

lished in 1648, gives the following interesting account of the Spanish

22

EARLY USE: OF COCOA "AND CHOCOLATE. 23

and Indian ways of making and drinking chocolate some two hundred
and fifty years ago: —

‘© Now, for the making or compounding of this drink, I shall set
down here the method. The cacao and the other ingredients must be
beaten in a mortar of stone, or (as the
Indians use) ground upon a broad stone,
@ which they call JZefate, and is only made
for that use. But first the ingredients are
all to be dried, except the Achzotte (an-
notto), with care that they be beaten to

powder, keeping them still in stirring that

they be not burnt, or become black; for

“ METATE.”’

if they be overdried they will be bitter and
lose their virtue. The cinnamon and the long red pepper are to be first
beaten with the anniseed, and then the cacao, which must be beaten by
little and little till it be all powdered, and in the beating it must be
turned round that it may mix the better. Every one of these ingredi-
ents must be beaten by itself, and then all be put into the vessel where
the cacao is, which you must stir together with a spoon, and then take
out that paste, and put it into the mortar,
under which there must be a little fire,
after the confection is made; but if more
fire be put under than will only warm it,
then the unctuous part will dry away.
The Achzotte also must be put in in the

beating, that it may the better take the

colour. All the ingredients must be

searced, save only the cacao, and if from CHOCOLATE-GRINDING IN THE

; s SEVENTEENTH CENTURY.
the cacao the dry shell be taken, it will

one From an early engraving.
be the better. When it is well beaten ‘
and incorporated (which will be known by the shortnesse of it) then

with a spoon (so in the Indias is used) is taken up some of the paste,

24 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

which will be almost liquid, and made into tablets, or else without a
spoon put into boxes, and when it is cold it will be hard.

‘‘ Those that make it into tablets put a spoonful of the paste upon a
piece of paper (the Indians put it upon the leaf of a plaintain tree),
where, being put into the shade (for in the sun it melts and dissolves),
it grows hard; and then bowing the paper or leaf, the tablet fals off by
reason of the fatnesse of the paste. But if it be put into anything of
earth or wood, it stickes fast, and will not come off but with scraping or
breaking. The manner of drinking it is divers; the one (being the
way most used in Mexico) is to take it hot with Atolle, dissolving a
tablet in hot water, and stirring and beating it in the cup, when it is
to be drunk, with a Molinet, and when it is well
stirred to a scumme or froth, then to fill the
cup with hot Atolle, and so drink it sup by sup.
Another way is that the chocolate, being dis-
solved with cold water and stirred with the Moli-

net, and the scumme being taken off and put
into another vessel, the remainder be set upon

the fire, with as much sugar as will sweeten it,

and when it is warme, then to powre it upon

“ MOLINETS.”

the scumme which was taken off before, and
so to drink it. But the most ordinary way is to warme the water very
hot, and then to powre out half the cup full that you mean to drink;
and to put into it a tablet or two, or as much as will thicken reasonably
the water, and then grinde it well with the Molinet, and when it is well
ground and risen to a scumme, to fill the cup with hot water, and so
drink it by sups (having sweetened it with sugar), and to eat it with a
little conserve or maple bred, steeped into the chocolatte.

‘¢ Besides these ways there is another way (which is much used
in the Island of Santo Domingo), which is to put the chocolatte into a
pipkin with a little water, and to let it boyle well till it be dissolved, and

then to put in sufficient water and sugar according to the quantity of

EARLY WUSE Of COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 25

the chocolatte, and then to boyle it again untill there comes an oily
scumme upon it, and then to drink it.

‘« There is another way yet to drink chocolatte, which is cold, which
the Indians use at feasts to refresh themselves, and it is made after this
manner: The chocolatte (which is made with none, or very few, ingre-
dients) being dissolved in cold water with the Molinet, they take off
the scumme or crassy part, which riseth in great quantity, especially
when the cacao is older and more putrefied. The scumme they lay
aside in a little dish by itself, and then put sugar into that part
from whence was taken the scumme, and then powre it from cn high
into the scumme, and so drink jt cold. And this drink is so cold that it
agreeth not with all men’s stomachs; for by experience it hath been
found that it doth hurt by causing pains in the stomach, especially to
women. .

‘«The third way of taking it is the most used, and thus certainly it
doth no hurt, neither know I why it may not be used as well in Eng-
land as in other parts, both hot and cold; for where it is so much used,
the most, if not all, as well in the Indias as in Spain, Italy, Flanders
(which is a cold countrey), find that it agreeth well with them. ‘True
it is, it is used more in the Indias than in the European parts, be-
cause there the stomachs are more apt to faint than here, and a cup of
chocolatte well confectioned comforts and strengthens the stomach.
For myself I must say, I used it twelve years constantly, drinking one
cup in the morning, another yet before dinner between nine or ten of
the clock; another within an hour or two after dinner, and another be-
tween four and five in the afternoon; and when I was purposed to sit
up late to study, I would take another cup about seven or eight at night,
which would keep me waking till about midnight. And if by chance
I did neglect any of these accustomed houres, I presently found my
stomach fainty. And with this custome I lived twelve years in those
parts healthy, without any obstructions, or oppilations, not knowing

what either ague or feaver was.”

26 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

Another writer of the seventeenth century 'describing the various
products of the New World, says : —

‘But much more beneficial is the Cacao, with which Fruit New
Spain drives a great Trade; nay, serves for Coin’d Money.. When
they deliver a Parcel of Cacao, they tell them by five, thirty and a
hundred. Their Charity to the Poor never exceeds above one Cacao-
Nut. The Trees on which this Fruit grows are divided into four sorts,
differing in bigness and shape: all of them are very tender, for they
will not only grow in no place, but on their usual Ground, but cannot
endure the cold Nights Storms, or excesses of Heat; wherefore the
Cacao-Trees which grow out of the Fruit that falls off, come to no
perfection, except in shady and warm Valleys; which is also the
reason why the Planters of New Spain plant the great Leafy Tree
Cacaoquanthly (that is, The Mother of the Cacao’s) near the Cacao-
Tree, that it may the better grow under the Shadow thereof; in which
manner whole Woods are planted: In the second year it bears Fruit,
which is first ripe in January, and again in the midst of Summer.
Amongst the four sorts the chiefest is Quathuitl, of an indifferent
heighth, and full of sharp-pointed Leaves, which are fast to the Boughs
without Stalks, and bears a creat Flower of a yellowish colour, which
falling off, leaves long, tough and hairy Threds behind them, out of
which grows the Cacavently, a Fruit which is oval, heavy like a Melon,
of a Saffron-colour, of a fat and thick Juice, a bitterish, yet pleasant
taste, and very cooling; being dry’d in the Sun it is thereby made fit
to keep; it is likewise highly esteem’d, because the Chocolate is made
of the same. Before the Spaniards made themselves Masters of
Mexico, no other Drink was esteem’d but that of the Cacao; none
caring for Wine, notwithstanding the Soil produces Vines every where
in great abundance of it self. But besides the Quathuitl, New Spain

hath three other sorts of Cacao-Trees, viz. Mecanal, pleasant to behold

1 America: Being the Latest, and Most Accurate Description of the New World. By Arnoldus Montanus.
Collected by John Ogilby, 1671.

ZN\| BCH i
x aed DNF.
\\ ola :

aa
—) ‘
%
a 7
i
7 FEL Ite Sa
vm

Ss _ Fa — =
G Sea |
A rey
ee ner
Rl : a
Saas
3 |

\ oom

Bi ite, .

28 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

for its heighth, large Leaves and Fruit; the next is the Xochucaual,
which is less than the former; and lastly, the least sort, which is call’d
Halcacahual. The Fruit of these four sorts of Trees, though differing
in shape, yet is all one in power and operation.’

M. Ferdinand Denis, in ‘‘ La Legende du Cacahuatl,” makes the

tollowing MSS statement in regard to the preparation of choco-

Jate 1 in ancient Mexico:

Rete

learned his-

= |

torian, and

Thomas Gage,
the conscientious traveler,
GRINDING ROOM IN ONE OF WALTER agree in telling us that oz
BAKER & CO.’S MILLS. 2 :
chocolate was an invention
of the Castilians. The first of these writers, who lived at the end
of the sixteenth century, says so positively; in his time it had been
used for only a few years
‘©Would you know now what chocolate was when the learned
Antonio Colmenero de Ledesma! gave his receipt ? I copy it for you
here : —

1 Colmenero de Ledesma (Antonio) Chocolata Inda Opsisculum de qualitate & Natura Chocolaex, 12mo

Novimberge, 1644

HAKEY CSE OF “COCOA “AND CHOCOLATE. 29

«© «Take a hundred cacao kernels, two heads of Chili or long peppers,
a handful of anise or orjevala, and two of mesachusil or vanilla, — or,
instead, six Alexandria roses, powdered, — two drachms of cinnamon,
a dozen almonds, and as many hazel-nuts, a half pound of white sugar,

and annotto enough to color it, and you have the king of chocolates.’ ’

The Spaniards thus early acquired a knowledge of the fruit and of

A MOLDING ROOM IN WALTER BAKER & CO’S MILLS.

selling it very profitably as ‘‘ chocollat” to the wealthy and luxurious
classes of Europe.

Says Brillat-Savarin, in his famous ‘‘ Physiologie du Gout,” ‘* Choco-
late came over the mountains [from Spain to France] with Anne of
Austria, daughter of Philip III., and queen of Louis XIII. The
Spanish monks also spread the knowledge of it by the presents they
made to their brothers in France. It is well known that Linnzus
called the fruit of the cocoa tree ‘heobroma, ‘food for the gods.’ The

cause of this emphatic qualification has been sought, and attributed by

30 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

some to the fact that he was extravagantly fond of chocolate; by others
to his desire to please his confessor; and by others to his gallantry, a
queen having first introduced it into France.

‘¢ The Spanish ladies of the New World, it is said, carried their love
for chocolate to such a degree that, not content with partaking of it
several times a day, they had it sometimes carried after them to church.
This favoring of the senses often drew upon them the censures of the
bishop; but the Reverend Father Escobar, whose metaphysics were as
subtle as his morality
was accommodating,
declared, formally, that
a fast was not broken
by chocolate prepared
with water; thus wire-
drawing, in favor of his
penitents, the ancient
adage, ‘Lzquidum non

SJrangit jeyunium. ”

Chocolate appears

COOLING ROOM, WALTER BAKER & COQ’S MILLS.

to have been highly
valued as a remedial agent by the leading physicians of that day.
Christoph Ludwig Hottmann wrote a treatise entitled ‘* Potus Choco-
late,” in which he recommended it in many diseases, and instanced the
case of Cardinal Richelieu, who, he stated, was cured of general
atrophy by its use.

The earliest intimation of the introduction of cocoa into England is
found in an announcement in the Pudlic Advertiser of Tuesday, June
16, 1657 (more than a hundred and thirty years after its introduction
into Spain), stating that ‘‘In Bishopsgate Street, in Queen’s Head
Allev. at a Frenchman’s house, is an excellent West India drink, called
chocolate, to be sold, where you may have it ready at any time; and

also unmade, at reasonable rates.”

EARLY USE OF GOCOA AND CHOCOLATE. RP!

Two years later, in the Mercurius Politicus for June, 1659, it is
stated that ‘* Chocolate, an excellent West India drink, is sold in Queen’s
Head Alley, in Bishopsgate Street, by a Frenchman who did formerly
sell it in Grace Church Street and Clement’s Churchyard, being the
first man who did sell it in England; and its virtues are highly extolled.”

A book written in the time of Charles II., entitled «*«The Indian
Nectar, or a Discourse Concerning Chocolate, etc.,” says the best kind
can be purchased of one Mortimer, ‘‘ an honest though poor man, liv-
ing in East Smithfield,” for 6s. 8d. per pound, and commoner sorts
for about half that price.

About the beginning of the eighteenth century chocolate had become
an exceedingly fashionable beverage, and the cocoa tree was a favorite
sign and name for places of public refreshment. Cocoa and chocolate
are frequently mentioned in contemporary literature ; and among others
Pope, in his ‘*Rape of the Lock,” alludes to it; the negligent spirit,

fixed liked Ixion, —

“In fumes of burning chocolate shall glow,

And tremble at the sea that froths below.

MILTON LOWER MILLS IN 1822 — FROM MODEL. WALTER BAKER & CO.’S
MILL ON THE RIGHT.

Chocolate was first manufactured in this country in 1765, in a mill on
the Dorchester side of the Neponset River, at a point long known as
Milton Lower Mills. Fifteen years later the plant came into the posses-
sion of Dr. James Baker, and the small beginning then made of a new
industry has developed into the world-famous manufacturing establish-
ment known as Walter Baker & Co. Ltd., of which some account is

given farther on.

32 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

The first notice of the sale of cocoa and chocolate in this country
appears in the Boston Gazette and Country Journal of March 12,
1770, as follows: —

OO BE SOLD BY
_ JOHN BAKER
At his Store in Back Street a few Bags of
the best Cocoa; also choice Chocolate by
the Hundred or Smaller Quantity.”
The following from the Essex Gazette, of June 18, 1771, contains

the first public notice of the manufacture of chocolate :

ONMOS) ERASE
At his House a little below the Bell-Tavern in
DANVERS,
Makes and sells CHOCOLATE,
which he will warrant to be good, and takes
Cocoa to grind. Those who may please to
favour him with their Custom may depend
upon being well served, and at a very cheap
eate: +
Two years later the Boston Gazette and Country Journal (April 5,
1773) contained the following notice :—
mC HOCOLA TE
TO BE SOLD BY JOSEPH DANN,
choice Chocolate made by himself, and
Warranted pure, likewise good Cocoa
Shells, at his House in Water-Street, next
Door to Ebenezer Torrey Baker, at the
Sign of the Wheat Sheaff near Oliver’s-
Dock, Boston.

Grind: Any gentlemen who will please to

Also Cocoa taken in to

favour him with their Custom may depend
on having it done with Fidelity and Dis-
patch.”

HAKLY USE (OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 33

Crude cocoa was brought to the American market at that time by the
Massachusetts traders, especially the Gloucester fishermen who re-
ceived it in exchange for the fish and other articles which they shipped
to the West Indies and Central and South America; and the direct
connection with the producers, thus early established, was maintained
until recent years.

In giving an account of the manufactures in Boston, in 1794, J. L.
Bishop, in his ‘* History of American Manufactures,” says: ‘* Choco-
late had long been made from the large quantities of cocoa obtained
in the West India trade, and had been greatly expedited by recent
inventions. The chocolate mill of Mr. Welsh, at the North End,
could turn out 2,500 lbs. daily.”

EV;

A PERFECT FOOD.

ARON VON LIEBIG, one of the best-known writers on
dietetics, says : —
‘Chocolate is a perfect food, as wholesome as it is delicious, a
beneficent restorer of exhausted power; but its quality must be good,
and it must be carefully prepared. It is highly nourishing and easily

digested, and is fitted to repair wasted strength, preserve health, and

Pte Re

prolong
agrees with dry tem-
peraments and con-
valescents; with
mothers who nurse
their children; with
those whose occupa-
tions oblige them to

undergo severe men-

tal strainss’ with

public speakers, and

STORAGE OF..COCOA BEANS,

with all those who

give to work a portion of the time needed for sleep. It soothes both
stomach and brain, and for this reason, as well as for others, it is the
best friend of those engaged in literary pursuits.”

Dr. Edward “Smith, 1.82; F-RSsm: his: -yaluable- sore on
‘« Foods,” for the International Scientific Series, says : —

‘< These well-known substances (cocoa and chocolate) are valuable
foods, since they are not only allied to tea and coffee as respiratory ex-
33

citants, but possess a large quantity of fat and other food materials. .. .

34

A PERFECT FOOD. 35

After giving an analysis of the cocoa bean, he goes on to say: ‘‘ This
substance in its action is less exciting to the nervous system than tea or
coffee, and at the same
time it contains a much
larger proportion of
nutritive material.
Moreover, its flavor is
not lessened by the
addition of milk, so that

it can be boiled in milk

only, and thus producea

INSPECTION OF BEANS,

most agreeable and nu-
tritious food. There are, therefore, many persons, states of system, and
circumstances in which its use is to be preferred to either tea or coffee.”

Brillat-Savarin, from whose work we have already quoted, says time
and experience have shown ‘‘ that chocolate, carefully prepared, is an
article of food as wholesome as it is agreeable; that it is nourishing,
easy of digestion, and does not possess those qualities injurious to
beauty with which coffee has been reproached; that it is excellently
adapted to persons who are obliged to a great concentration of intellect
in the toils of the pulpit or the bar, and especially to travelers; that it
suits the most feeble stomach; that excellent effects have been pro-
duced by it in chronic complaints, and that it is a last resource in affec-
tions of the pylorus.

‘¢ Some persons complain of being unable to digest chocolate; others,
on the contrary, pretend that it has not sufficient nourishment, and that
the effect disappears too soon. It is probable that the former have
only themselves to blame, and that the chocolate which they use is of
bad quality or badly made; for good and well-made chocolate must
suit every stomach which retains the slightest digestive power.

‘‘In regard to the others, the remedy is an easy one: they should

Q

reenforce their breakfast with a fa/éé, a cutlet, or a kidney; moisten

36 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

the whole with a good
draught of soconusco
chocolate, and thank
God for a stomach of
such superior activity.

‘¢This gives me an
opportunity to make an
observation whose ac-
curacy may be de-
pended upon.

‘cATter aya ood,

Bcc BEANS. complete, and copious
breakfast, if we take
in addition a cup of well-made chocolate, digestion will be perfectly
accomplished in three hours, and we may dine whenever we like. Out
of zeal for science, and by dint of eloquence, I have induced many
ladies to try this experiment. They all declared, in the beginning, that
it would kill them; but they have all thriven on it, and have not failed
to glorify their teacher.

‘« The people who make constant use of chocolate are the ones who
enjoy the most steady health, and are the least subject to a multitude of
little ailments which destroy the
comfort of life ; their plumpness is
also more equal. ‘These are two
advantages which every one may
verify among his own friends, and
wherever the practise is in use.”

M. Boussingault, a member of
the French Institute, in an inter-
esting paper printed in the **An-

nales de Physique et du Chimie,”

says :—

FINAL PROCESS OF SELECTION.

A PERFECT FOOD. 37

«Chocolate contains
a very large proportion
of nutritive matter in a
small volume. In an
expedition to a great
distance, where it is im-
peratively necessary to
reduce the weight of

the rations, chocolate

offers undeniable ad-
SWEET CHOCOEL#?
vantages, as I have had . see
frequent occasions to notice. Humboldt recalls what has
with reason, that in Africa rice, gum, and butter enable me
the desert: and he adds that, in the New World, chocolate and corn
meal render the plateaus of the Andes and the vast, uninhabited forests
accessible to man.

‘¢In Central America, when they organize a river expedition, or
traverse the forests, they prepare chocolate for provision with eighty

parts of cocoa to twenty of coarse sugar, the composition being as fol-

lows :—

Sugar . tof) ac ; eee Tee ees Oy hay ae 200
ISiUNG(S ey teens Ce PEAR a) Ace eh re a aa shal eee Sao 410
Albumens 94) «2 7." : fe att a ee, Pear nt oe 100
Phosphates and-SaltS.° .-. « | SA at Pedr tii . Pode 30
MthersVMatter’ “.-% 4 Sy, « Ss de 260

1,000
‘‘ach man receives 60 grams (about 2 ounces) of this chocolate
per day, in which there are 12 grams of sugar, 20 of butter, and 6
of albumen. It is a useful addition to the ration formed of beef slightly
salted and dried in the air, of rice, of corn biscuit, or of cassava muffins.
‘¢The infusion of tea, maté (Paraguay tea), and coffee are not, of
course, to be considered as food. The amount of solid matter in them

is very slight, and their effects are due only to their alkaloids.

38 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

‘* This is not true of chocolate, which is at the same time complete
food and an active excitant, since it approaches in composition that
model food, milk. In fact we have seen that in cocoa there is legu-
mine and albumen, associated with fat, sugar to sustain respiratory
combustion, phosphates, which are the basis of the bones, and — what

milk does not have —theobromine and a delicate aroma. Roasted,

WRAPPING ROOM, BAKER’S CHOCOLATE.

ground, and mixed with sugar, cocoa becomes chocolate, the nutritive
properties of which astonished the Spanish soldiers that invaded
Mexico.”

Dr. Edmund A. Parkes, F.R.S., in his ‘‘ Manual of Practical Hy-
giene, prepared especially for use in the Medical Service of the Army ay

(London, 1864), says : —

A PERFECT FOOD. 39

‘¢ Although the theobromine of cocoa is now known to be identical
with theine and caffeine, the composition of cocoa removes it widely
from tea and coffee. The quantity of fat varies even in the same sort
of cocoa. The ash contains a large quantity of phosphate of potash.
The larger quantity of fat makes it a very nourishing article of diet,
and it is therefore useful in weak states of the system, and for healthy
men under circumstances of great exertion. It has even been com-
pared to milk. In South America cocoa and maize cakes are used by

travelers, and the large amount of agreeable nourishment in small bulk

WRAPPING ROOM, BAKER’S BREAKFAST COCOA.

enables several days’ supplies to be easily carried. By roasting, the
starch is changed into dextrine, the amount of margaric acid increases,

and an empyrematic aromatic substance is formed.”

Francois Joseph Victor Broussais, a celebrated physician and mem-
ber of the French Institute, says : —

‘‘ Chocolate of good quality, well made, properly cooked, is one of
the best aliments that I have yet found for my patients and for myself.
This delicious food calms the fever, nourishes adequately the patient,
and tends to restore him to health. I would even add that I attribute

many cures of chronic dyspepsia to the regular use of chocolate.”
2 o

490 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

Christoph Wilhelm Hufeland, the distinguished German physician,
says : —

‘¢T recommend good chocolate to nervous, excitable persons; also
to the weak, debilitated, and infirm; to children and women. I have
obtained excellent results from it in many cases of chronic diseases of
the digestive organs.”

Dr. Karl Ernest Bock, of Leipsic, author of a “ Trazté de Pathologie
et de Diagnostic,” says: —

‘© The nervousness and peevishness of our times are chiefly attribu-

ts ae table to tea and coffee;
- ss the digestive organs of

confirmed coffee drink-
ers are in a state of
chronic derangement,
which reacts upon the
brain, producing fretful
and lachrymose moods.
Cocoa and chocolate are
neutral in their physical
effects, and are really the

WRAPPING ROOM, BAKER’S VANILLA AND
CARACAS CHOCOLATES.

most harmless of our
fashionable drinks.”

Jean Baptiste Alphonse Chevalier, in his treatise on chocolate,
says : —

‘Cocoa and chocolate are a complete food: coffee and tea are not
food. Cocoa gives one third its weight in starch and one half in cocoa
butter; and, converted into chocolate by the addition of sugar, it real-
izes the idea of a complete aliment, wholesome and eminently hygienic.
The shells of the bean contain the same principles as the kernels, and
the extract, obtained by an infusion of the shells in sweetened milk,
forms a mixture at once agreeable to the taste and an advantageous

substitute for tea and cotfee.”

A PERFECT FOOD. 41

Mme. de Sevigne, in one of her letters to her daughter, says : —
‘©T took chocolate night before last to digest my dinner, in order to

have a good supper. I

took some yesterday for A
nourishment, so as to be rr WM }
able to fast until night. 2 |. = a

What I consider amusing
about chocolate is that it
acts according to the
wishes of the one who
takes it.”

It will be observed that
Brillat-Savarin corrobo-

rates this statement as to

the value of chocolate as

WRAPPING CONFECTIONER’S CHOCOLATE.

an aid to digestion.

‘©The cocoa bean,” says M. Payen, in ‘¢ Des Substances Alimen-
taires,” ‘has in its composition more nitrogen than wheat flour, about
twenty times as much fatty matter, a considerable proportion of starch,
and an-agreeable aroma which excites the appetite. We are entirely
disposed to admit that this substance contains a remarkable nutritive
power. Besides, direct experience has proved this to be the case. In
fact, cocoa, closely combined with an equal or two thirds’ weight of
sugar, forming the article well-known under the name of chocolate,
constitutes a food, substantial in all respects, and capable of sustaining
the strength in traveling.”

And a little farther on, he adds : —

‘«« Cocoa and chocolate, in consequence of their elementary composi-
tion, and of the direct or indirect addition of sugar before their con-
sumption, constitute a food, respiratory, or capable of maintaining
animal heat, by means of the starch, sugar, gum, and fatty matter

which they contain; they are also articles of food -favorable to the

42 GOGO ANDYGHOGOLMUIE:.

maintenance or development of the adipose secretions, by reason of
the fatty matter (cocoa butter) belonging to them; and, finally, they
assist in the maintenance and increase of the tissues by means of their

congeneric azote substances, which assimilate therewith.”

Etienne Francois Geoffroy, the distinguished French physician and
professor of medicine and pharmacy in the College of France, says, in
his ** Trarté de Matiére Médicale” : —

‘©The drinking of chocolate, especially of that made with milk, is

recommended to persons affected with phthisis or consumption; and,

WRAPPING GERMAN SWEET CHOCOLATE,

in fact, it supplies a juice which is nourishing, substantial, and smooth,
which deadens the acrimony of the humors ; provided, as we have said,
that the cocoa is properly roasted, and mixed with a very small quantity

of spices.”

A French officer who served in the West Indies for a period of fifteen
years, during the early part of the last century, wrote, as the result of
his personal observations, a treatise on ‘‘ The Natural History of Choc-
olate, Being a Distinct and Particular Account of the Cacao Tree, Its
Growth and Culture, and the Preparation, Excellent Properties, and

Medicinal Virtues of Its Fruit,” which received the approbation of the

AVPEREPHCT HOOD. 43

Regent of the Faculty of Medicine at Paris, and which was translated
and published in London, in 1730. After describing the different

methods of raising and curing the fruit and preparing it for food (which

it is not worth while to reproduce here, as the methods have essentially
changed since that time), he goes on to demonstrate, as the result of
actual experiment, that chocolate is a substance ‘‘ very temperate, very

nourishing, and of easy digestion; very proper to repair the exhausted

ake

PACKING ROOM, BAKER’S CHOCOLATE.

spirits and decayed strength; and very suitable to preserve the health
and prolong the lives of old men.

«¢ There lately died at Martinico a counselor, about a hundred years
old, who for thirty years past lived on nothing but chocolate and bis-
cuit. He sometimes, indeed, had a little soup at dinner, but never any
fish, flesh, or other victuals. He was, nevertheless, so vigorous and
nimble that at fourscore and five he could get on horseback without

stirrups.

44 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

‘«Chocolate is not only proper to prolong the life of aged people, but
also of those whose constitution is lean and dry, or weak and caco-
chymical, or who use violent exercises, or whose employments oblige
them to an intense application of mind, which makes them very faintish.
To all these it agrees perfectly well, and becomes to them an altering

diet.”

Dr. Nansen, the famous Arctic explorer, in his book entitled ‘* The
First Crossing of Greenland” (Vol. I., p. 58), speaks of chocolate as
an important part of the equipment for such an undertaking. ‘* We
generally,” he says, ‘‘ used chocolate in the morning.” Referring to
tea, coffee, and alcoholic drinks, he says: ‘‘ Stimulants of this kind,
with the exception of chocolate, which is mild in its effect and at the
same time nourishing, bring practically no nutritive substance into the

body, and the energy which one obtains in anticipation by their use at

one moment must be paid for by a corresponding exhaustion at the

next.”

&
~~

CE

Pal
My
uP

FOUNDERS

IF

THE

HOUSE

OF

WALTI

Kt

BAKI

R

¥V:

THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER & CO. LYD:

T is stated, on what appears to be good authority,’ that the chocolate
mill erected on Neponset River, in the town of Dorchester, Mass.,
in 1765, was the first mill of that kind established in the British

provinces of North America. It was connected with a sawmill, operated
by water-power, and was regarded as a somewhat doubtful experiment.
Its establishment was due to the representations made by John Hannan,
an Irish immigrant, who
had learned the business
of chocolate making in
England. The new in-
dustry prospered in a

small way, and on the

death of Hannan, in 1780,

Dr. James Baker estab-

OLD STONE MILL OF WALTER BAKER & CO,
(REBUILT IN 1849.)

lished the house which
has continued under the
name of Baker without interruption trom that day to this.

After the death of Dr. James Baker the business fell in the order of
succession to his son Edmund and his grandson Walter. On the death
of the latter in 1852, Sidney Williams, who had been his partner for
some years, continued in charge of the affairs until he died two years
later (1854), when Henry L. Pierce, a relative of Walter Baker, took
the management of the business, first as lessee and later as sole owner.
During the forty-two years in which he had control he raised it from a

1 History of the Town of Dorchester, Mass., 1857.

4!

THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER & CO. AT

comparatively small, local concern to the position of the leading
industrial enterprise of its kind on this continent.

In 1895 the business was organized as a corporation under the
general laws of Massachusetts; and in 1898 a special charter was
granted by the General Court.

The old stone mill which was erected in 1849, on the site long occu-
pied by the small building shown in the engraving of 1822, has given
place to an imposing structure of brick and stone, known as Mill No. 5.
The plant now comprises six mills on the Dorchester and Milton sides
of the Neponset River, containing 348,480 square feet of floor space —

about eight acres.

It is an interesting fact that on the spot where
the industry was first started, more than a cen-

tury: and a quarter ago, the business has con-

tinued and attained the highest development.

From the little wooden mill, \ =

“ By the rude bridge that arched the \ 8

flood,”

SSN
SS

: SS

os j ;
Tae, YO. Ca w AAPA .

NEPONSET RIVER FALLS

“GLI ‘OO 8 YAUAVA YUALIVM AO (£ CNY ‘2 ‘I “SON ) S1I7TIN

SENSING

THE TLAOGSIS OF WALTER BAKER & CO: 49

there has grown up one of the greatest establishments in the world, —
the house of Walter Baker & Co. Ltd., —an establishment which
competes successfully for prizes in all the great industrial exhibitions
of the world, whose influence is felt in the great commercial centers,
and whose prosperity promotes the welfare of men who labor under a
tropical sun in the cultivation of one of the choicest fruits of the earth.

Before proceeding to describe the methods of manufacture used in
the Baker Mills, something should be said on the importance of select-
ing only the best raw materials, and of treating them in the light of

modern science and without sophistication.

The three associated beverages, cacao, tea, and coffee, are known
to the French as aro-
matic drinks. Each of
these has its character-
istic aroma. The fra-
grance and flavor are
so marked that they
cannot be imitated by
any artificial products,
although numerous at-
tempts have been made
in regard to all three.
Hence, the detection

of adulteration 1s not a

difficult matter. De-

signing persons, aware of the extreme difhculty of imitating these sub-
stances, have undertaken to employ lower grades, and by manipulation
copy, as far as may be, the higher sorts. Every one knows how
readily tea and coffee, for that matter, will take up odors and flavors
from substances piaced near them. This is abundantly exemplified in

the country grocery or general store, where the teas and coffees share

50 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

in the pervasive fragrance of the cheese and kerosene. But perhaps
it is not so widely understood that some of these very teas and coffees
had been artificially flavored or corrected before they reached their
destination in this country.

Cacao lends itself very readily to such preliminary treatment. Ina
first-class article, the beans should be of the highest excellence: they
should be carefully grown on the plantation and there prepared with
great skill, arriving in the factory in good condition. In the factory,
they should simply receive the mechanical treatment requisite to
develop their high and attractive natural flavor and fragrance. They
should be most carefully shelled after roasting and finely ground
without concealed additions. This is the process in all honest
manufactories of the cacao products.

Now, as matter of fact, in the preparation of many of the cacao
products on the market a wholly different course has been pursued.
Beans of poor quality are used, because of their cheapness, and in
some instances they are only imperfectly, if at all, shelled before
grinding. Chemical treatment is relied on to correct in part the odor
and taste of such inferior goods, and artificial flavors, other than the
time-honored natural vanilla, and the like, are added freely. The
detection of such imposition is easy enough to the expert, but is difh-
cult to the novice: therefore the public is largely unable to discriminate
between the good and the inferior, and it is perforce compelled to depend
almost entirely on the character and reputation of the manufacturer.

Pure cacao-products are characterized by extreme delicacy of flavor.
But they possess another feature of attractiveness, — a beautiful rich
red-brown color which 1s so truly characteristic, that its name,
‘¢ chocolate,” has passed into many languages as denoting this charm-
ing shade. When the cacao product is pure, this shade is not a very
dark brown, it inclines rather to a dark red. When the color of a
cacao-product is so dark as to appear almost black it is a sure sign that

it has been tampered with in the process of manufacture or else that

THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER Ve, 51

the original cacao-seed was of poor quality. The uninformed person
naturally thinks that the deeper shade means strength. This it never
means. The black color simply shows that the manufacturer has seen
fit to employ harmful alkaline additions at some stage of the process,
or perhaps has preferred to color his goods artificially with coal-tar
dyes or with the less injurious lampblack. It may be said, once for
all, that black cacao-products must be looked upon with suspicion.
They contain foreign matters or else they have been maltreated by
chemicals during manufacture. Pure products of the cacao-seed pre-
serve their fine delicacy of flavor from start to finish: black products
are impure. Discriminating purchasers know this and recognize the
fine reddish-brown as characteristic of a pure product, while it is only
among those who do not give proper attention to the matter that a
market can be found for the cacaos and chocolates to which alkalies,
coal-tar dyes, or lampblack have given an unwholesome darkness.

There are few articles in common use where so simple a test for
purity exists.

A well-known medical expert has said: ‘‘The recent tendency to
interfere with the natural properties and constituents of such a valuable
food as cocoa is deeply to be deplored. The removal of the fiber and
the excess of fat is all thatis necessary to produce the most perfect food
beverage known to physiologists, and the best cocoa from the dietetic
standpoint is undoubtedly that which is perfectly pure without addition
of any kind whatsoever. Some manufacturers add starch or sugar in
the mistaken idea that starch properly replaces the fat removed. But
in no case can starch take the place of fat in a food, and the result is
simply to lower the flesh-forming qualities of the. Ota so treated.
Starched cocoa is really a poor food, and should be avoided by all who
wish to get the most nutriment at the lowest cost in the form of pure
cocoa. Malted cocoa, so much in vogue lately, is merely a fad, and
has no actual food value over the plain article. The malt is added

because it contains a ferment termed ‘diastase,’ which has the power

52 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

of converting starch into sugar, and if the malt retained this power in
the cup of cocoa its inclusion could be defended. But the diastase is
killed at 175 deg. Fahr., and therefore the digestive action of the malt
is entirely destroyed by the addition of the boiling milk or water to the
powder or paste in the cup. Inasmuch as malt is inferior to cocoa in
actual food value, its addition to cocoa lowers the nutritive value of the
beverage. The use of hops is also entirely useless as far as practical

hy

a

i

MILL NO. 4, WALTER BAKER & CO. LTD.

results are concerned, for if sufficient hops were used to be of any
service as a tonic to the stomach, the flavor of the cocoa would be ‘sO
influenced as to make it quite unpalatable, and as the hops have no
nutritive value, the addition is without beneficial results. Zhe treatment
of cocoa with potash ts to be strongly condemned, as the slightly increased

solubility obtarned 7s more than counter-balanced by the injurious effects

THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER & CO. 53

of the chemical upon the system, and those who value good health would
be well advised to leave such cocoas alone. Perhaps the most novel
departure of late years is the addition of kola to cocoa. Kola is a
powerful drug, and contains besides caffeine other potent nerve stimu-
lants of an unknown character. It is impossible to defend on hygienic

grounds the addition of such a powerful drug to an article of daily con-

THE TELPHERAGE SYSTEM —FOR THE CONVEYANCE OF CRUDE COCOA

FROM THE STOREHOUSES TO THE ROASTING ROOMS.

sumption, and though under medical advice, and in exceptional cases,
the increase of nerve stimulating properties which kola confers on cocoa
may be beneficial, yet to the masses such uncontrolled drugging may
be followed by serious consequences. Pure cocoa is so rich in good
dietetic properties that to interfere with the normal proportions of the
food principles is to notably decrease its nutritive value.”

The simple process by which the natives of Central and South

America prepared a nutritious beverage from the seeds of the cocoa

54 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

tree has already been described. We will now refer briefly to the
modern method of manufacture as carried on in the Walter Baker estab-
lishment, in which the latest and most improved machinery and appli-
ances are used to improve the quality and cheapen the cost of production.

The selected cocoa beans are first cleaned from the dust and attached
particles which have come from various sources during the fermenta-
tion of the seeds. The machines for cleaning the beans are very
ingenious and effective, removing from the seed coat every trace of

foreign matter.

The cleaned seeds

are next roasted in the
most careful manner,
every precaution being
taken to secure a uni-
form effect through the
whole mass. During

the Bite the seeds

et aeaen more or
ae modified in taste.
In under-roasted seeds

the flavor is not fully

PRIVATE OFFICE, MILL NO. 4.

developed, while in
over-roasted seeds the pleasant taste is likely to become greatly im-
paired, or it may even be wholly replaced by a bitter and harsh flavor.
These relations of color and taste to the roasting of the seeds make
this portion of the manufacture one of the most delicate processes from
beginning to end.
By the roasting the shell becomes more readily detachable, and its
complete removal is the next step. The crushing of the seeds into
small fragments is easily accomplished; and this is followed by

thorough winnowing, by which the lighter shells are carried away by

VI

K

BAKER

D

STONE

MII

L.

)

4
‘
}
i
i
’

56 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

themselves, leaving the clean fragments of the roasted seeds ready for
further manipulation.

Among the fragments can be detected minute and very tough bits of
tissue. These bits are the hardened germs, or rather portions of the
germs, and these are separated from the rest by an apparatus of
much simplicity and efficiency.

The clean shells are usually placed at once in packages for trans-
portation. They are extensively used for the domestic preparation
of a wholesome and very low-priced drink. This beverage contains
a fair proportion of the active principle of the chocolate seeds them-
selves, and the flavor is suggestive of chocolate. ee

The cleaned fragments constitute the so-called ‘* cocoa nibs” Pot some
foreign markets, and in this state they are used for the preparation of
a simple decoction. But in this form they require to be boiled a good
while for the development of flavor, and it is, therefore, better to have
them treated beforehand in order to reduce the time gispoiling ; ; and this

is all the more necessary, since

during the long boiling a part of
the more delicate aroma peculiar

to chocolate seeds is apt to be ©

dissipated.

ENGINE AND
BOILER ROOM,
MILL NO. 1.

THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER & CO. 57

In the preparation of chocolate, the fragments are ground by a com-
plicated mechanism until they attain the greatest degree of fineness,
and constitute a perfectly homogeneous mass or paste. If it is to be
a plain chocolate (which is put up in a blue wrapper with a yellow
label and known as ‘‘ Baker’s Chocolate” or ‘* Premium No. 1 Choco-
late”), it goes directly into the molds for shaping it.

The molding is a noisy but interesting operation. The chocolate

iC
A

ioe NOON HOUR. MILL NO. I.

cannot be pressed into:molds, because it sticks to the presser; it is,
therefore, shaken in. A plastic lump of the proper weight is placed
in a shallow mold. A number of these molds are put into a wooden
tray, placed upon a table, which is shaken automatically, causing the
metal molds to jump up and down ina very lively manner, and making
as much clatter as a regiment of cavalry crossing a bridge. Every
step of the process has to be watched with the most assiduous care.
When the plastic mass has been shaken into the mold so as to be per-
fectly uniform in shape and size, the pans are removed to the cooling

room.

50 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

If the chocolate is to be sweetened, a definite amount of the purest
sugar, previously pulverized, is added before the molding, and the
whole ground and commingled. If it is to be a vanilla chocolate, the
finest quality of Mexican vanilla beans (which are superior to those
grown elsewhere) are blended with the semi-fluid mass, and formed
in molds, as already described.

The variations in the process are innumerable, many of them com-

paratively unimportant when taken singly; but to secure the best

WALTER BAKER & CO.cve
STORE HOUSES MOG.O~i4

WALTER BAKER & CO.’S TEAMS.
results it is important that each of these slight changes should be-made

at just the right time and in the right way.

The manufacture of breakfast cocoa is based upon two important

factors: first, the removal of a definite portion of the cocoa-oil from

TEE HOUSE. OF, WALTER BAKERS CO. 59

the roasted seeds; and second, increasing the miscibility of the pow-
dered seeds by securing the greatest practicable degree of fineness.

While the oil of the chocolate seed is perfectly wholesome, there are
some persons who find in the percentage natural to the seeds an amount
too large for easy digestion. The removal of a part of this, which
might with propriety be called an excess of the oil, was practised even
in very early days, as is seen in the cut herewith given, taken from an
old work on the subject.

The method of manufacture is substantially as follows: the ground
fragments of roasted seeds are subjected to hydraulic pressure, by
which a certain amount of the fat is eliminated.
The pressed mass is, in the most successful
process, treated mechanically in such a man-
ner as to divide and subdivide the minute
particles until they are capable of passing
through a_ sieve having several thousand
meshes to the square inch. But such pulver-
ization as this would, under ordinary circum-
stances, reduce the mass to a dull and unat-

tractive. powder. In the process devised by

the Walter Baker Company, this high degree
of fineness is secured without any loss of OLD PRESS FOR REMOV-
brilliancy in the powder,—the color being PMNS ae
of the bright red which is not only attractive in appearance, but when
conjoined with the natural chocolate odor and flavor is characteristic
of absolutely pure cocoa of the highest grade.

It is instructive to compare such cocoa with the cocoas prepared
by what is known as the Dutch process. The latter are prepared
by treatment with alkaline matters, which act on the coloring sub-
stances in the seeds, increasing the apparent effect of hot water when
the latter is added. In chemically prepared cocoas, the exquisite

natural odor and flavor of pure cocoa seeds have been diminished

60 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

or wholly lost by the severe treatment to which the materials have been
subjected. In some cases the loss of the natural flavor is sought to
be partially supplied by the use of fragrant gums, and other matters
wholly foreign to the natural product.

The detection of these admixtures is generally easy. Comparison

iia

WALTER Bal

EXECUTIVE OFFICES, 45: BROAD STREET, BOSTON.

with Baker’s Breakfast Cocoa will reveal at once the vast superiority of
a product which has not been treated by chemicals, but which contains
only the finest possible powder of the best chocolate seeds freed from
the excess of oil. The exquisite flavor and odor of the pure product

are due wholly to the seeds themselves, since absolutely no foreign

THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER & CO. OI

matter is added from first to last. It can be used by students of the
microscope and of chemistry as a perfect type of the highest order of
excellence in manufacture.

Dr. H. C. Sawyer, in his valuable little book on ‘‘ Nerve Waste,”
says: —

«¢Baker’s Breakfast Cocoa is a light preparation which can be

heartily recommended ; it contains only so much fat as can be digested
5 J s

GROUP OF DEMONSTRATORS, WALTER BAKER & CO. LTD.

by almost any one, and is peculiar in not cloying or palling after a
time as so many cocoa preparations do. Such a beverage is far more
wholesome, and more agreeable, after one becomes used to it, than
tea, which is much over-used ”

A recent article in the New York Polyclinic says : —

«Tt is not infrequent that chemists and physicians differ in opinion
as regards the use of certain food products and their influence upon

tissue metabolism; but for many years they have agreed that cocoa

Business andNs

2

hers
Offi
esfer:

at Dorch

6

~ Olenograp

THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER & CO. 63

(theobroma cacao) exerts an influence upon the human system that is
equaled by no other vegetable product. Careful analysis, combined
with extensive clinical experience, has shown beyond shadow of doubt
that it retards retrograde metamorphosis of the body tissues (tissue
waste), is far more nutritious and less directly stimulating to the ner-

vous system than either tea or coffee, and when the excess of oil (oleum

PRESIDENT’S OFFICE, BOSTON.

theobrome) has been removed, exerts a distinctive beneficial influence
upon the digestive functions. Such being the case, the use of a
thoroughly reliable preparation of cocoa should be universally en-
couraged, and it is the consensus of opinion among medical men as

well as laboratory workers that the breakfast cocoa manufactured. by

64 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.

Walter Baker & Co. Ltd., not only meets the indications, but accom-
plishes even more than is claimed for it.”

The Dietetic and ITygienic Gazette says : —

‘s Walter Baker & Co, of Dorchester, Mass., U. S. A., have given
years of study to the skilful preparation of cocoa and chocolate, and
have devised machinery and systems peculiar to their methods of treat-
ment, whereby the purity, palatability, and highest nutrient character-

istics are retained. Their preparations are known the

world over and have received the highest indorsements

from the medical practitioner, the nurse,
and the intelligent housekeeper and
caterer. There is hardly any food prod-
uct which may be so extensively used in
the household in combination with other
foods as cocoa and chocolate; but here
again we urge the importance of purity
and nutrient value, and these important

points, we feel sure, may be relied upon

OFFICE BUILDING, DORCHESTER. 11h Baker’s cocoa and chocolate.”

The Dominion Medical Monthly, Toronto, Canada, says : —

‘There are on the market to-day a large number of so-called co-
coas, all of them ‘ guaranteed’ to be ‘absolutely pure,’ but many of
them adulterated. There are few articles which physicians find as
much use for as this preparation of the cacao nut, and one of the difhi-
culties which medical men have to overcome is to choose the pure from
the impure, choosing the former and discarding the latter... Many per-
sons declare firmly that they cannot digest cocoa, this being due to a
certain degree of oiliness present. Pure cocoa acts as a gentle stimu-
lant, and invigorates and corrects the action of the digestive organs,

furnishing the body with some of the purest elements of nutrition. The

PHE HOUSE OF WALTER, BAKER G&G CO: 65

firm of Walter Baker & Co. Ltd., of Dorchester, Mass., put up one
of the few really pure cocoas, and physicians are quite safe in specify-
ing their brand.”

The American Homewopathist says : —

‘¢The need of a substitute for coffee in many nervous disorders, and

ee

i

BRANCH HOUSE. OF WALTER BAKER & CO. LTD.
FRANKLIN AND HUDSON STREETS, NEW YORK.

particularly where there are heart complications, has induced me to
give special recognition to the cocoa preparations, for all are not of
equal merit. The essentials of a proper production are found in the
well-known cocoa made by Walter Baker & Co., of Dorchester, Mass.,
and in one or two others, but I give preference to the one named, be-

cause it is always and everywhere obtainable and is of uniform quality.

66 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE
Its usefulness is not, however, restricted. In many cases of deficient
nutrition, it may be well prescribed as a food-drink with every meal.”

The Maryland Medical Journal says : —

‘* Physicians have long recognized the valuable dietary properties of

cocoa. When obtained free from any admixture of foreign matter, its

BRANCH HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER & CO., 38 AND 40 LAKE STREET, CHICAGO.

nutritive value cannot be overestimated, combining as it does in proper
proportion the essentials of a perfect food — carbohydrates, albumi-
noids, mineral matters, and the active principle, theobromine. The
physiological effects of cocoa in certain constitutional derangements
are well known to practitioners in general, and when no violence is
done to the chemical properties of the different components in the

process of preparation a product at once comforting and nutritious is

THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER &© CO. 67

obtained. The wholesomeness and efficiency of the Walter Baker & Co.’s
Cocoa is due to a peculiar process in its manufacture, which preserves
the theobromine and nutritive portion without the use of chemicals, and
has more than three times the strength of other preparations mixed with
starch, arrowroot, or sugar. The long-standing reliability of this brand
of cocoa enables physicians to prescribe it with thorough confidence in
its highly valuable nutritive effects and full assurance of its purity and

wholesomeness.”

The Health Magazine says: —

‘¢ A very large class of intelligent and right-thinking people through-
out the world are ready to testify to the nutritive properties of
Walter Baker & Co’s Breakfast Cocoa. The food value of this article
has so long been known to physicians and the public that it has become
in a great many homes a staple article of the dietary, not only for in-

valids, but for persons in health as well.”

A DETAIL OF THE TELPHERAGE SYSTEM.

SUGGESTIONS

RELATIVE TO
THE COOKING: OF CHOCOLATE AND COCOA,

BY MRS. ELLEN H. RICHARDS,
Of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology.

HE flavor of the cocoa bean seems to be almost universally liked,
a and the use of the various preparations made from it is con-

stantly increasing. From the sweet chocolate with which the
traveler now provides himself in all journeys in which the supply of
food is doubtful either in quantity or quality, to delicate coloring and_
flavoring of cakes and ices, nearly all kinds of culinary preparations
have benefited by the abundance of this favorite substance.

In these forms, chocolate is used in a semi-raw state, the bean having
been simply roasted at a gentle heat, ground and mixed with sugar,
which holds the fat. By varying the quantity of the chocolate to be
mixed with the ingredients of fe cake or ice, an unlimited variety of
flavors can be obtained. ;

In preparing it as a beverage for the table a mistake has been fre-
quently made in considering chocolate merely as a flavor, an adjunct
to the rest of the meal, instead of giving it its due prominence as a real
food, containing all of the necessary nutritive principles. A cup of
chocolate made with sugar and milk is in itself a fair breakfast.

There is much to be said in favor of preparations of the whole bean
which secure all of the valuable nutrition contained in this ‘‘ food for
the gods,” and rightly understood, it is possible to make them more
important articles of diet than they now are. But since the large per-
centage of fat seems to require correspondingly large quantities of

68

SUGGESTIONS. 69

sugar to render the beverage palatable, and this very rich, sweet drink
soon cloys if made strong enough to be nutritious, it is, fortunately,
possible to extract the larger part of the fat without injury to the flavor
so characteristic of chocolate. In this form, called cocoa, less sugar
and more milk are needed, and the resulting beverage suits even
delicate stomachs, and is yet of high food value.

It is the object of all cooking to render raw material more palatable
and more nutritious, and therefore more digestible. The cooking of
cocoa and chocolate is no exception to this rule. Certain extractive
principles are soluble only in water which has reached the boiling
point; and the starch, which the seed contains, is swollen only at this
temperature.

Chocolate or cocoa is not properly cooked by having boiling water
poured over it. It is true that as the whole powder is in suspension
and is swallowed, its food material can be assimilated as it is when the
prepared chocolate is eaten raw; but in order to bring out the full, fine
flavor and to secure the most complete digestibility, the preparation,
whatever it be, should be subjected to the boiling point for a few

minutes. In this all connoisseurs are agreed.

WALTER BAKER & CO.’S STOREHOUSES, MILTON.

ESTABLISHED 1780,

Walter Baker & Co. Limited,

Dorchester, Mass.

Manufacturers of

Pure High Grade

Cocoa and
Chocolate

Preparations.

TRADE-MARK.

BAKER’S BREAKFAST COCOA.

In % tb. packages (tin). 12 packages in a box.

SSS This admirable preparation is made from selected cocoa,
from which the excess of oil has been removed. It is
absolutely pure, and it is soluble. It has more than three
times the strength of cocoa mixed with starch, arrowroot,
or sugar, and is, therefore, far more economical, costing less
than one cent a cup. It is delicious, nourishing, strengthen-
ing, easily digested, and admirably adapted for invalids as

— = well as for persons in health.
No alkalies or other chemicals or dyes are used in its preparation.

Trade-mark on every package.

BAKER’S CHOCOLATE.

In % tb. cakes, 1 1b. packages, blue wrapper, yellow label.

It is the pure product of carefully selected cocoa beans, to which nothing has
been added and from which nothing has been taken away. Unequaled for

———

CHOCOLATE;

WALTER BAKER &CO LTD

smoothness, delicacy, and natural flavor. Celebrated for more than a century

as a nutritious, delicious, and flesh-forming beverage. The high reputation and

constantly increasing sales of this article have led to imitations on a very exten-
sive scale. To distinguish their product from these imitations Walter Baker &
Co, Ltd. have enclosed their pound packages in a new envelope or case of stiff
paper, different from any other package. The color of the case is the same
shade of deep blue heretofore used on the Baker packages, and no change has
been made in the color (yellow) and design of the label. On the outside of
the case, the name of the manufacturer is prominently printed in white letters.
On the back of every package a colored lithograph of the trade-mark, “ La Belle
Chocolatiere,” sometimes called the Chocolate Girl, is printed. Vigorous pro-
ceedings will be taken against any one imitating the package.
‘Trade-mark on every package.

BAKER’S VANILLA CHOCOLATE,

In % Ib. and } Ib. packages,
is guaranteed to consist solely of choice cocoa and sugar, flavored with pure
vanilla beans. Particular care is taken in its preparation, and a trial will con-
vince one that it is really a delicious article for eating or drinking. It is the

best sweet chocolate in the market. Used at receptions and evening parties in
place of tea or coffee. Our choice Recipe book (sent free) contains a valuable
recipe for making the Chocolate with Whipped Cream.

Trade-mark on every package.

CARACAS SWEET CHOCOLATE.

In 4 lb. packages and 6 Ib. boxes.

Unequaled for smoothness, delicacy, and flavor. The, most
delicious and healthful article of food that can be carried by
golfers, bicyclists, tourists and students.

Trade-mark on every package.

CENTURY CHOCOLATE.

In 4 Ib. packages.
A fine vanilla chocolate for eating or drinking. Put up in very artistic wrappers.
Trade-mark on every package.

GERMAN SWEET CHOCOLATE.

In 4 and \% Ib. packages.

is one of the most popular sweet chocolates sold any-
where. It is palatable, nutritious, and healthful, and
is a great favorite with children.

Beware of tmitations. The genuine is stamped “ S.
German, Dorchester, Mass.”

Trade-mark on every package.

CRACKED COCOA, OR COCCGA NIBS.

In % and J Ib. packages and in 6 and JO lb. bags.

This is the freshly roasted bean cracked into small pieces. It contains no ad-
mixture, and presents the full flavor of the cocoa bean in all its natural fragrance
and purity. When properly prepared, it is one of the most economical drinks.
Dr. Lankester says cocoa contains as much flesh-forming matter as beef.

Trade-mark on every package.

CACAO DES AZTEQUES.

In boxes, 6 [bs each; % 1b bottles,

A compound formerly known as Racahout des Arabes ; a most nutritious prepa-
ration ; indispensable as an article of diet for children, convalescents, ladies,
and delicate or aged persons. It is composed of the best nutritive and restor-
ing substances, suitable for the most delicate system. It is now a favorite
breakfast beverage for ladies and young persons, to whom it gives freshness and
embonpoint. It has solved the problem of medicine by imparting something
which is easily digestible and at the same time /ree from the exciting qualities of
coffee and tea, thus making it especially desirable for nervous persons or those
afflicted with weak stomachs.

It has a very agreeable flavor, is easily prepared, and has received the com-
mendation of eminent physicians as being the best article known for convales-
cents and all persons desiring a “ght, digestible, nourishing, and strengthening
Sood.

‘Trade-mark on every package.

SOLUBLE CHOCOLATE.

This is a preparation for the special use of druggists and others in making
hot or cold soda. It forms the basis for a delicious, refreshing, nourishing, and
strengthening drink.

It is perfectly soluble. It is absolutely pure. It is easily made. It possesses
the full strength and natural flavor of the cocoa bean. No chemicals are used
in its preparation.

The directions for making one gallon of syrup are as follows : —

8 ounces soluble chocolate.
8% pounds white sugar.
2% quarts water.

-Thoroughly dissolve the chocolate in hot water, then add the sugar, and heat
until the mixture boils. Strain while hot. After it has become cool, vanilla
may be added if desired.

The trade is supplied with J, 4, or 10 Ib. decorated canisters.
Trade mark on every package.

CHOCOLATES FOR CONFECTIONERS’ USE.

These chocolates have long been ‘the synonym for purity and excellence. To
meet the requirements of the trade, both light and dark chocolate coverings
have been prepared from selected cocoas, which, on account of their wxzformity,
purity, and flavor, are favorite brands with all the ading confectioners.

VANILLA TABLETS.

These are small pieces of chocolate, made from the finest nuts, and done up
in fancy foil. The packages are tied with colored ribbons, and are very attract-
ive in form and delicious in substance. They are much used for desserts and
collations, and at picnics and entertainments for young people. They are
strongly recommended by physicians as a healthy and nutritious confection for

children.
‘Trade-mark on every package.

COCOA BUTTER. |

In % Ib. cakes.

One-half the weight of the cocoa bean consists of a fat called “cocoa butter,”
from its resemblance to ordinary butter. It is considered of great value as a
nutritious, strengthening tonic, being preferred to cod-liver oil and other nau-
seous fats so often used in pulmonary complaints. As a soothing application to
chapped hands and lips, and all irritated surfaces, cocoa butter has no equal,
making the skin remarkably soft and smooth. Many who have used it say they
would not for any consideration be without it. It is almost a necessary article
for every household.

Trade-mark on every package.

COCOA SHELLS.

In } Ib. packages.

Cocoa shells are the thin outer covering of the beans. They have a flavor
similar to but milder than cocoa. ‘Their very low price places them within the
reach of all; and as furnishing a pleasant and healthy drink, they are con-
sidered superior to tea and coffee.

Packed ov/y in 1 |b. papers, with our label and name on them.

Trade-mark on every package.

Forty-three highest awards have been received from in-
ternational and local expositions in Europe and
America during the last fifty-two years, of which the

following are the most noteworthy.

Wortp’s Farr, St. Louis (Grand Prix on all Cocoa

and Chocolate and Gold Medal on Installation). . 1904

Dominion OF CANADA INDUSTRIAL EXPOSITION . . 1903
Pan American Exposition, Buffalo- . . . = «= Ig0o1
Expositions UNIVERSELLE, Paris. . . 1868, 1878, 1900
‘Peane VMississrper, Omaha. oes era st ead aakooe

Cotton STATES AND INTERNATIONAL EXPOSITION,

Wiliaditars i oe Roke” ah ONS.” oa, Weis at ge ees
MIDWINTER AND INTERNATIONAL EXPOSITION, San

Bemmcisco, e* “5 eve eS ee Se eee
Wor.p’s CoLuMBIAN ExposiTIon, Chicago . . . 1893
INTERNATIONAL. FAIR; DETROIT: £0. 5: 2. ce ee S92
EXPOSITION PROVINCIALE, QuEBeC . . . . . . 1891

MASSACHUSETTS (CHARITABLE MECHANICS ASSO-
ermrron, Bosfon = - > . « ~ +S. =, S858; sey. 2000

Wor.tp’s INDUSTRIAL AND CoTTON CENTENNIAL,

New Orleans +. 2" Fe Se ee ee ee
SouTHERN Exposition, Louisville . . . . . . 1883
CENTENNIAL Exposition, Philadelphia. . . . . 18476
INTERNATIONAL ExposiITION, Vienna ... . . « 18973
INDUSTRY OF ALL Nations, New York . . . . 1853

FRANKLIN INSTITUTE, Philadelphia . . . . . . 1852

Choice
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Noted
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Preparations.
Doechester Nin..

Reduced facsimile of an attractive booklet of sixty-four pages,

with colored illustrations, sent fre to any applicant. Address

WALTER BAKER & CO. LTD.

Dorchester, Mass.

Pie: ntesS
Te. 7 per, eee S's vi

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
POTN

00009322451