,>T««^ Commercial RABBIT RAISING Agriculture Handbook No. 309 """>,. Agricultural Research Service UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE From the collection of the ^ m 0 Pre jinger V xJibrary t P San Francisco, California 2008 Contenh INTRODUCTION 1 CHOOSING A BREED 2 SELECTING FOUNDATION STOCK 4 SYSTEMS OF BREEDING 4 THE RABBITRY AND ITS EQUIPMENT 8 Buildings 8 Hutches 8 Feeding equipment 14 Equipment for watering 17 Nest boxes 18 FEEDS AND FEEDING 21 Feed requirements 21 Hay 23 Green feed and root crops 24 Grains and milled feeds 24 Protein supplements 24 Miscellaneous feeds 25 Pelleted rations 25 Salt 25 Water 26 Preparing and storing feeds 26 Methods of feeding 26 Feeding dry does, herd bucks, and juniors 27 Feeding pregnant and nvirsing does 27 COPROPHAGY 28 REPRODUCTION 28 Germ cells and fertilization 28 Gestation period 29 Age to breed 29 Breeding schedule 30 Lactation 30 Factors that limit conception 31 Artificial insemination 32 MANAGING THE HERD 33 Methods of handling rabbits 33 Making matings 34 Determining pregnancy 35 Kindling 36 Complications at kindling time. 37 Care of young litter 38 Causes of losses in newborn litters 39 Page MANAGING THE HERD— Continued Weaning 39 Determining the sex of young rabbits 39 Marking for identification 40 Castration 40 Care of herd during extreme temperatures 41 F*r eventing injuries 43 Preventing sore dewlaps 43 Sanitation and disease control. . 43 Fur-eating habit 48 Preventing fur block 48 Gnawing wooden parts of the hutch 49 Disposal of rabbit manure 49 Earthworms in the rabbitry 49 Records and recordkeeping 49 TYPES OF PRODUCTION 52 Fryer production 52 Roaster production 54 ANGORA RABBIT WOOL PRODUCTION 55 Equipment for grooming and shearing 56 Grading, preparing, and mar- keting wool 57 MARKETING 58 Slaughtering and skinning 58 Cutting and packaging rabbit meat 60 Crating and shipping live rabbits 60 RABBITSKINS 63 Curing 63 Marketing 64 Grades 64 Packing and shipping 65 ECONOMICS OF RABBIT PRODUCTION 66 Records 66 Labor 66 Investment 67 Returns and expenses 67 LITERATURE CITED 69 Washington, D.C. Issued July 1966 Slightly revised October 1971 For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Goverrunent Printing Office Washington, D.C. 20402 - Price 35 cents Stock Number 0100-1376 Commercial RABBIT RAISING R. B. Casady, p. B. Sawin, and J. Van Dam » INTRODUCTION Americans eat 25 to 30 million pounds of domestic rabbit meat each year. The rabbits come from small rabbitries with three or four hutches and from large commercial producers. Rabbit raising lends itself to both types of production. Rabbit meat is pearly white, fine- grained, palatable, and nutritious. It is a convenient source of high- quality protein and is low in fat and caloric content. Rabbitskins also have some com- mercial value. Better grades of rabbitskins may be dressed, dyed, sheared, and made into fur gar- ments and trimmings. Some skins are used for slipper and glove lin- ings, for toys, and in making felt. Fine shreds of the flesh part of the dried skins, which are often left after separating the fur for mak- ing felt, are used for making glue. Because of the relatively low value of skins from meat rabbits, a large ^ Dr. Casady was formerly with the Sheep and Fur Animal Research Branch, Animal Science Research Di- vision, Agricultural Research Service. Dr. Sawin is responsible for the section on Systems of Breeding ; he was with the Roscoe B. Jackson Memorial Laboratory, Hamilton Station, Bar Harbor, Maine, and is now retired. Mr. Van Dam is responsible for the sec- tion on Economics of Rabbit Production ; he is farm adviser, Los Angeles County, University of California Agricultural Ex- tension Service. volume is necessary to market them satisfactorily. An increasing demand for rab- bits for laboratory and biological purposes offers opportunities to breeders living near medical schools, hospitals, and laboratories. Rabbits have made large contribu- tions to researcli in venereal dis- ease, cardiac surgery, hypertension, and virology, and are important tools in pregnancy diagnosis, in- fectious disease research, the devel- opment of hyperimmune sera, de- velopment of toxins and antitoxins, and the teaching of anatomy and physiology. A recent development in the rabbit industry has been the increased use by scientific per- sonnel of various rabbit organs and tissues in specialized research. The availability of these byproducts has greatly facilitated many basic research programs. The recommendations in this bulletin are based largely on stud- ies at the U.S. Rabbit Experiment Station formerly maintained at Fontana, Calif., by the Sheep and Fur Animal Research Branch, Animal Science Research Di- vision, Agricultural Research Serv- ice. At this station, improved methods were developed for pro- ducing rabbits for meat, fur, and wool of fine quality, for insuring 2 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE sanitary surroundings, and for pre- venting outbreaks of parasitic and other diseases. This handbook is being issued to help county agricuUural agents, State colleges of agriculture, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture answer the many thousands of re- quests received each year from commercial and professional rabbit producers for information about rabbits. CHOOSING A BREED Whether you raise rabbits for meat and fur, wool, laboratory ani- mals, or show stock — select the breeds best adapted to the purpose. The American Rabbit Breeders Association lists standards for 28 different breeds, and approxi- mately 77 varieties of these breeds of rabbits, to cover characteristics such as type, color, and size; dis- qualifications also are listed. Table 1 lists some common breeds of rabbits. Mature animals of the smaller breeds weigh 3 to 4 pounds each; those of the medium breeds, 9 to 12 pounds; and those of the larger breeds 14 to IG pounds. They also vary widely in color. Rabbits best suited in size and conformation for producing meat and fur are such medium and large Table 1 . — Some common breeds oj rabbits Approx- Breed Color imate Principal mature uses weight Pounds American Resembles the true chinchilla, 9-12 Show and fur. Chinchilla. {Chinchilla laniger). CaUfornian White body; colored nose, ears, feet, and tail. 8-10).^2 Show and meat. Champagne Undercolor a dark slate blue; 9-12 Show and meat. d' Argent. surface color a blue-white or silver with a hberal sprin- khng of long black guard hairs. Checkered Giant . White with black spots on cheek, sides of body, and on hind- quarters; wide spine stripe; black ears and nose with black circles around the eye. 11 or over.. Show and fur. Dutch Black, blue, chocolate, tortoise, 3^-5^2 Show and labo- steel gray, and gray; white ratory. saddle, or band over the shoulder carrying down under the neck and over the front legs and hind feet. English Spot Basic body color white; colors 5-8 Show, meat, and of spots: black, blue, choc- laboratory. olate, tortoise, steel gray, lilac, and gray; nose, ears, and eye circles and cheek spots; spine stripe from base of ears to end of tail; side spots from base of ears to middle of hindquarter. COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING Table 1. — Some common breeds oj rabbits — Continued Approx- Breed Color imate Principal mature uses weight Flemish Giant Steel gray, Hght gray, sandy, black, blue, white, and fawn. No two colors allowed on solids. 13 or over_. Show and meat. Himalayan New Zealand Same as Californian _ _ _ 2H-5 Show and meat. W hite, red, or black 9-12 Show, meat, and laboratory. Polish White, black, or chocolate; ruby-red eyes or blue eyes. m Show and labo- ratory. Rex - Representative of any breed Black, blue, Havana brown, red, chinchilla, copper, Cal- 7 or over 8-11 Show and fur. Satins Show and fur. ifornian, and white. Silver Martens Black, blue, chocolate, or sable, with silver-tipped guard hairs. 6^2-9^2 Show and fur. breeds as the New Zealand, Cali- fornian, Champagne d' Ardent, Chinchilla and Flemish Giant. White breeds of rabbits, such as the New Zealand White and Cali- fornian, are the most desirable for commercial and fur production be- cause white skins usually bring higher prices. Preference among the white breeds is largely a mat- ter of personal choice. Skins are a byproduct of meat production. If you raise rabbits for labora- tory purposes, check with nearby hospitals, laboratories, and city and county health offices to find out the type, age, and size of ani- mals desired. BN 21010 Figure 1. — Representative breeds of meat rabbits. Left — New Zealand white. Right^Californian. 4 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 309, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE SELECTING FOUNDATION STOCK When you use young rabbits for foundation stock, you have an op- portunity to become acquainted with them and with their habits be- fore they reach the production stage. An inexperienced producer should begin on a small scale, with 2 or 3 bucks and 20 to 30 does, and expand operations as he gains ex- perience and as market demands justify. When buying breeding stock, deal directly with reliable breeders. Brokers handling live rabbits sel- dom are able to vouch for the con- ditions under which their animals were produced. Reliable breeders stand behind the stock they offer and will give references. National, State, and local rabbit breeders' organizations can furnish names and addresses of breeders from whom you can buy stock. The essential requirements of good foundation stock are health and vigor, longevity, ability to re- produce, and a body type consist- ent with ability to produce market- able offspring of the desired quality and size. SYSTEMS OF BREEDING In planning a breeding program for rabbits, attention should be given to the concepts winch have been shown by long years of study to be relatively constant in do- mesticated mammals. These con- cepts are described in a number of textbooks of genetics in greater detail than space will permit here. Such books are in college, univer- sity, and most of the large city libraries. A breeder today, who attempts to develop a strain with- out recourse to such material, would be at a distinct disadvantage. It should be understood that this brief article can be only a sum- mary of the sort of information which a breeder needs. The first concept is that of the gene pool. Any breed or other foundation stock selected for breed- ing constitutes a pool or group of many, perhaps thousands, of hered- itary units, commonly referred to as genes. The genes are specifi- cally located in the chromosomes, very small thread-like bodies found in every cell of the body. In the rabbit there are 22 pairs, and their segregation (one member of each pair going to each egg or sperm) in the production of eggs or sperm, plus the ultimate union of ^gg and sperm at mating and conception, provides the mechanism for trans- mission of hereditary characteris- tics from one generation to the next. It also provides the mecha- nism which in nature insures suffi- cient variability for adaptation of the species to minor changes in the environment and for its perpetua- tion. The gene pool of the rabbit has been modified in many ways dur- ing domestication and by selection to establish the different breeds. This pool, in the rabbits at hand, is the breeder's capital stock, and intelligent breeding depends on knowing as much as possible about that iDool. How well does it per- petuate itself? How much varia- tion does it transmit that is either good, bad, or indifferent, particu- larly with respect to reproductive capacity? How much of it is ap- parent to the breeder, and how much can be revealed onl^ by breeding experience? In spite of all man knows about genetics and reproduction, nature is still the most successful breeder. If this COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING were not so, we would not have the infinite number and variety of species that exist in the world, many of which are known to have existed for mau}^, many centuries. But even nature slips. Species are known to have been lost as a result of circumstances with which they were unable to cope, and mal- formed offspring are known to oc- cur sometimes in the wild. Na- ture's success is essentially due to the size of the gene pools of each species, plus the ruthless elimina- tion of the unfit as they appear. These combine to insure a high proportion of successful individ- uals, and some individuals adapt- able to any ordinary change which may occur in the environment in which they live. Ability to adapt to differing environments is the feature which makes for survival and is the mechanism by which species have evolved. When man steps in, success or failure of his breeding system de- pends on the genes maintained in the pool and his ability to select those genes intelligently. The first task of the breeder becomes one of devising methods of ascer- taining the sort of genes his ani- mals possess and the second is the elimination of undesirables. To accomplish these objectives there are tools at his disposal, the use of which must be clearly under- stood. Such tools are: selection, outbreeding or outcrossing, and inbreeding. Selection has been called the key- stone of the arch of animal breed- ing. It has been practiced in the wild since the beginning of life on this earth. In free-roaming ani- mals, such as the rabbit, where the chances of uniting between closely related animals are small, unfavor- able recessive genes seemingly are rare. Actually, there are many but they tend to be covered up by domi- nant favorable genes and by their interrelations in the gene pool. Over a long period of time, a wild population continually- mating in this way appears to achieve a rela- tively high degree of homeostasis, or stability, in a variable environ- ment, Avith seemingly a minimum of variation. "When man steps in with artificial selection under do- mestication, and an artificial small environment the chances of un- favorable recessive genes coming together in any one mating are greatly increased. In standard- bred strains, selection over a long period of years by one breeder un- der one type of breeding may also lead to homeostasis, but when such a strain is put in inexperienced hands, or under a different system of breeding, it may not produce the same results. Selection, al- though in itself something of a breeding system without the ruth- less objectivity found in the wild, becomes highly dependent upon other factors only controllable by the skill and understanding of the breeder. Two factors are of ma- jor importance. First is the quality of the gene pool when selection is first started. It is obviously im- possible to select for a characteris- tic, such as high performance, if the genes for this characteristic are not there in the first place. Second is a good environment which will allow the results of the genetic selection to be fully ex- pressed. Feed, housing, and man- agerial practices are most impor- tant. Overfeeding and pampering, however, may cover up poor genes and thus not lead to permanent improvement or stability. The supports of the keystone at the two outer extremes of the breeding arch are outbreeding and inbreeding. Outbreeding, or the mating of unrelated rabbits, differs from na- ture's usual procedure in no way except in the degree of selection. 6 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE In the wild, natural selection oc- curs through the survival of the fittest based upon function in the environment available. Selection b}' the rabbit l)reeder, if done in- telligently, often proves superior in many ways. Outbreeding with careful selection is generally ac- cepted as a satisfactory procedure for commercial purposes and, with due attention to reproductive ca- pacity, accounts for a moderate de- gree of improvement of breeds, particularly when carried out ac- cording to the breed standards. It cannot produce permanently a high degree of uniformity, even in the hands of the most skilled breeder, nor can it lead to establishment of an outstanding strain with recognizably uniform dependable improvement. Outcrossing, or hybridization, consists of wide matings between unrelated rabbits. It is usually done between breeds for special purposes. It is the initial step in the establishment of new breeds, because by bringing together a maximum number of unlike genes of the two breeds (or gene pools), a maximum range of variation from which to select is provided. Because of the extreme degree of relationship, such matings in the first one or two generations fre- quently manifest a maximum amount of fertility, vigor, and growth, commonly referred to as hybrid vigor or heterosis. The first generation is thus often a highly desirable commercial ani- mal especially for meat production. Later generations, however, be- cause or their great variation are of little value commercially. Their breeding value lies only in the range of variation which they pro- vide in a selection program extend- ing over a number of generations in which the aim is selection for the most desirable characteristics of both breeds. Some breeders have capitalized on the advantages of outcrossing by involving three breeds, each of which contributes especially desirable characteristics. However, such crosses may be ex- pected to involve a longer period of selection to arrive at the ulti- mate objectives. Inbreeding in contrast to out- breeding, is the mating of closely related individuals. The closest form is brother-sister or parent- offspring mating. Carried on for 20 generations or more it leads to genetic uniformity. Opinion varies with regard to its use. In general, it is in bad repute because it usu- ally is initiated with a stock pre- viously outbred for many genera- tions; such a stock is likely to carry a large pool of undesirable reces- sive genes covered up by tlie proc- ess of outbreeding. Some of these genes may be lethal, thus reducing viability and reproductive fitness as they are brought together by successive generations of inbreed- ing. However, as these recessive genes are observed and ruthlessly discarded, the strain in each gen- eration tends to become more and more uniform. Inbreeding in it- self does not create harmful genes; it only exposes those that are al- ready present. At the same time, careful selection fixes favorable and desirable dominant and reces- sive characters so that uniformity is progressively increased. In the smaller laboratory animals which reproduce more rapidly than rab- bits, a number of successfully iso- genic (as alike as identical twins in man) strains have been success- fully established for research pur- poses. This means lines which are so much alike that skin and other tissues can be successfully grafted or transplanted among them. The procedure followed is simple and straightforward if no complica- COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING tions arise. It consists of strict brother-sister matings usually done without selection (since successful reproduction and uniformity are the major objectives) for at least 20 generations. This leads to the complete set of many genes of the breed being alike, pair for pair, except for that part which deter- mines sex. It will continue to be so as long as such breeding is con- tinued except for possible occa- sional mutations which under nor- mal environmental situations rarely occur. New genes must never be introduced or the 20-generation procedure must be repeated and then the chances of having the identical gene pool are very small. The major difficulty with in- breeding, and this the breeder must weigh carefully before undertaking such a program, is that during the first 10 to 12 generations sterility, mortality, and undesirable abnor- mal variations are certain to be high, rendering the undertaking economically costly and even vul- nerable to complete loss. Unless sufficient offspring are produced in each generation to insure that only the absolute best are retained (that is, some selection is exercised), the program may be hazardous. Where selection is practiced, inbreeding progresses more slowly from gen- eration to generation, but more safely. Once deleterious genes are fixed in an inbred generation the damage can be repaired only by some form of outbreeding. Once the program is initiated, new genes cannot be added in any generation without undoing all uniformity previously achieved. It is there- fore most important that the ini- tial stock be of the highest quality, that is, contain the maximum num- ber of favorable genes. Should there be any question as to this quality of foundation stock or its ability to produce, line breeding (the mating of animals of less close relationship) may be desirable for a few generations. This will ac- quaint the breeder with his un- known recessive gene pool and at the same time, by selection, pro- vide some form of concentration of the best genes. It can be done most rapidly by keeping the rela- tionship to some one desirable an- cestor high. Because a prolific male can affect many more off- spring than a female in a given time period, several generations of backcrosses to any exceptionally vigorous and prolific male may do much to strengthen the initial gene pool before full brother-sister mating is begun. It should be pointed out that a number of attempts have been made to inbreed the rabbit in this country and abroad over the past 25 years but thus far no completely isogenic strain exists. Achieve- ment of inbred lines is the onl^ means of securing genetic uni- formity and, although it is a hazard- ous undertaking, the breeder who has obtained some degree of suc- cess by any system of close breed- ing will find inbreeding a chal- lenging approach to further breed improvement. With the increas- ing usefulness of the rabbit in medical and biological research, the demand for truly isogenic strains is almost certain to become greater and greater; and breeders who do undertake production of such might find it not only a pro- fitable investment, but would ren- der a most valuable service to medical and biological science. In such an undertaking the value and importance of some training in genetics, nutrition, animal hus- bandry, and health cannot be over- emphasized. Young people who are interested in such efforts will do well to seek such training as early in their education as possible. 424-402 O - 71 - 2 8 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE THE RABBITRY AND ITS EQUIPMENT Select rabbitry equipment that is adapted to your local conditions and to your proposed operations by reviewing the literature on the subject. // possible^ visit rahhitries and discuss problems with success- ful breeders. Have your equip- ment ready when the first rabbits arrive. Buildings The type of building you need for housing the hutches will be de- termined by local building regula- tions, climatic conditions, and the amount of money you can invest. In planning your building and its equipment, emphasize comfort of the rabbits and convenience of the caretaker. The building should have a simple design, protect the rabbits from winds, rain, and bright sun, and provide light and fresh air (figs. 2, 3). Where mild climates prevail, hutches may be placed in the open but should have individual roofs and protection from the weather. Sunlight helps maintain a sani- tary condition in the rabbitry but whether it actually helps the rab- bits themselves has not been deter- mined. Rabbits apparently enjoy being in the sun where tempera- tures are low or moderate but it is not necessary that they receive di- rect sunlight. In fact, exposure to direct hot sun may have serious deleterious effects on rabbits. In mild climates, hutches may be placed in the shade of trees or buildings or under a lath super- structure (fig. 2). In hot climates, some cooling measures must be provided in ad- dition to shade. This can be ac- complished by the use of overhead sprinklers, or foggers placed within the building. Make sure that the building is adequately ventilated and that the rabbits receive the benefit of prevailing breezes. In areas where strong winds and stormy weather prevail, you can put up hutches in a building that is open to the south and east; use curtains or panels to close up the building during inclement weather. Where you have extremely cold weather, more protection will be needed (figs. 4, 5). Hutches Provide individual hutches for mature rabbits. The hutches should be no more than 21/2 feet deep so you can easily reach the rabbits, and 2 feet high. Make the hutches 3 feet long for small breeds, 3 or 4 feet for medium-size breeds, and 4 to 6 feet for giant breeds. All figures are for inside measurement. Whether you ar- range the hutches in single, dou- ble, or triple tiers depends upon how much room is available. If you have enough room, waist-high, single-tier hutches are preferable as thev are most convenient for observing the rabbits and will also save time and labor in feeding and management. The two- or three-tier hutches, necessary when space is limited, are not entirely satisfactory for caring for and ob- serving the animals in the bottom and top tiers. The inconvenience of squatting or stooping to feed and care for rabbits in the bottom tier and of having to use a stool or ladder for the top row of a three-tier arrangement results in additional labor and time as com- pared to a single-tier arrangement. Rabbits are more easily cared for in well-built hutches than in poorly constructed temporary ones. Self- cleaning, all-wire hutches (fig. 6) need no bedding and you can easily keep them in good condition. COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING 9 BN 26084 N 45961 Figure 2. — Typical buildings used in areas of mild climate. 10 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE Figure 3. — Typical rabbitry in areas where the climate is hot. (Courtesy of Small Stock Magazine.) (81331 B) Figure 4. — Outdoor hutches used in Central States. COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING 11 Metal Hutches. — Several designs of wire hutches are available com- mercially or you can build your own. Plans and specifications may be obtained from commercial firms who advertise in the various rabbit journals. A metal hutch that saves labor in caring for animals and is simply designed and economical to build is a combination two-compart- ment all- wire hutch. An all-wire quonset-shaped hutch (fig. 6) has several advantages. It is easy to clean, neat in appearance, and requires less wire than a stand- ard rectangular hutch. The hutch features a door that opens up over the top. When open, the door does not occupy aisle space or interfere with feeding and cleaning operations. In addition, when this type of hutch is single- tiered at waist height, you can reach all the corners without plac- ing your head and shoulders inside the door opening. Quonset-shaped hutches can be adapted to fit any type of rabbitry where hutches are protected. They are most easily constructed in units — two hutches per unit. BILL OF MATERIAL FOR TWO QUONSET- SHAPED HUTCHES IN ONE UNIT The following material will be needed to build one unit containing two hutches — each hutch will be 3 feet long and 21/^ feet wide: Floor : One piece of welded, 16-gage galvanized wire, 1- by l/^- inch mesh, 3 feet wide by 6 feet long. Top: One piece of welded, 14-gage galvanized wire, 1- by 2- inch mesh, 4 feet wide by 6 feet long. Ends and partition: Three pieces of welded, 14- gage galvanized wire, 1- by 2-inch mesh, IV^ feet wide by 21/2 feet long. 11527-D FIGURE 5. — Semienclosed hutches for use in cold climates. 12 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE N4593g Figure 6. — Quonset-shaped, all- wire hutches with counterset nest box and hopper feeders. Doors : Two pieces of welded, 14- gage galvanized wire, 1- by 2-inch mesh, li/^ feet wide by 1 foot 8 inches long. Miscellaneous : Steel rod. — 5/16-inch round steel rod, 8 feet 11 inches. Two pieces, 2 feet 61/^ inches long for nest supports. One piece, 3 feet 10 inches long, for rein- forcing the front of the hutch. Wire. — No. 12 galvanized, 21 feet 71/^ inches. Three pieces, 4 feet long, for edging around ends and partition. Two pieces, 914 inches long, for vertical nest support. Two pieces, 1 foot 41^, inches long, for hori- zontal nest support. Two pieces, 2 feet long, for feeder yokes. Wire. — No. 9 galvanized, 7 feet 4 inches. Two pieces, 1 foot 8 inches long, for ad- ditional support at the ends of the hutch. Two pieces, 2 feet long, for reinforcing the door openings. Fasteners : 100 hen -cage clips, small size, for fastening the floor, top ends, and parti- tion. 25 hen-cage clips, large size, for door hinges and for fastening the No. 9 wire. 30 hog rings. No. 101, for fastening the 5/16 inch steel rod to the floor. Door latches. — Any standard latch, or fastener, may be used. In constructing a unit of two COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISESTG 13 hutches, it is recommended that the floor be laid out first, 3 inches to be bent up on either side (the front and rear of the hutches), and openings cut for the counterset nest boxes. The 3 inches can be bent up on the sides with a metal brake or improvised homemade tooling. In cutting openings for the nest boxes be sure to leave ap- proximately IV^ inches of flooring at the front of the hutch for suspension of the nest boxes. The partition and ends should then be shaped from 1-inch by 2- inch wire by using a template. Allow %-inch protrusion beyond the edge of the template and bend these wires around the No. 12 edg- ing wire. At this time, some No. 12 wire may be fastened to the bottom of the ends and partitions for reinforcement. The ends and partitions can then be laid in posi- tion on the floor, and fastened to the floor with hen-cage clips. Next make the top from 1-inch by 2-inch wire, cutting openings for the doors and feeders. Lay the top over the floor, ends, and par- titions, and fasten at the rear with hen-cage clips spaced approxi- mately every 5 inches. Raise the front edge of the top until it is even with the 3-inch raised front edge of the flooring and fasten with hen-cage clips. Now, reach in one end and raise one end en- closure into position, fastening it to the top with hen cage clips. Re- peat this process with the center partition and other end enclosure. This will automatically form the quonset-shape top over the ends and partition. The raised front edge can then be cut for installa- tion of the feeders, the doors and nest boxes can be installed, and the hutch is ready for use. When two or more units (four or more hutches) are built and placed end to end, a saving of one end enclosure can be made for each unit built by using the following procedure : 1. Cut the wire mesh for the floor and top of the first unit 6 feet, 1 inch long. 2. On the first unit, fasten the partition 3 feet from the left-end enclosure — fasten the right-end en- closure 3 feet to the right of the partition. This will leave a 1-inch overhang to connect to the next unit. 3. On all additional units, cut the floor and top wire 6 feet long and fasten the partition 35 inches from the left end ; fasten the right- end enclosure 3 feet to the right of the partition, leaving 1 inch of floor and top extending beyond the right-end enclosure. These end en- closures become partitions when units are added. 4. Use hen-cage clips to fasten the units into one continuous line. The hutches can be installed in several ways. Suspension from the rafters or ceiling of a shed is the most practical method because it eliminates all supports beneath the hutches. Heavy wire or light lum- ber can be used to hang the hutches. If a dewdrop water system is used in the rabbitry, the hutches can be fastened to the water pipe for rear support. If they are not placed within a shed, the hutches can be supported by a frame on legs. However, the hutches will require some type of cover to protect the rabbits from rain, sun, and wind. Wooden -Frame Wire Hutches.^ Though not so durable as the all- wire hutch, the wooden hutch with woven-wire sides and ends permits good circulation of air. It is more sanitary than a solid hutch. Hutches may be supported in sev- eral ways. If you use corner posts, make them long enough so that you can clean underneath and do other work around the hutch. You can support a hutch by resting it on a 14 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE crosspiece nailed between the studs that support the shed, or you can hang it from the rafters or ceiling of the shed with heavy wire or light lumber. Semienclosed Hutches. — The semienclosed hutch is constructed with ends and back of wood (figs. 4, 5). An extended roof gives added protection. You can use this hutch in outdoor rabbitries in cold cUmates. Another satisfactory type of hutch, which is light, movable, and inexpensive, is shown in figure 7. Rabbits kept in hutches made of wooden frames and wire need addi- tional protection in cold climates. Hutch Floors. — Several types of floors are used in hutches, and each has its particular merit. Wire mesh floors are used ex- tensively where a self-cleaning type is desired. They are a necessity in commercial herds, where it would be impossible to provide enough labor to keep solid floors in a sani- tary condition. In installing this type of floor, examine the wire for sharp points which result sometimes from the galvanizing process. Al- ways put the smooth surface on top. Solid floors should slope slightly from the front of the hutch to the rear to provide proper drainage. You can use hardwood slats, 1-inch wide and spaced %-inch or %-inch apart. A combination of solid floor at the front part of the hutch and a strip of mesh wire or slats at the back may be used. Feedins Equipment It is desirable to use feed crocks, troughs, hoppers, and hay mangers that are large enough to hold several feedings, to save time in filling. Use a type that will prevent waste and contamination of the feed. Crocks. — Crocks especially de- signed for rabbit feeding, which are not easily tipped over, have a lip that prevents the animals from scratching out and wasting their feed. The chief objection to these is that the young rabbits get into them and contaminate the feed. 6otjyl-B' Figure 7. — An economical hutch of light construction, which can be moved from place to place. COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISESTG 15 Hay Mangers and Troughs. — Hay mangers with troughs to pre- vent wastage may be incorporated into hutches, where hays or green feeds form a part of the diet. The troughs also can be used for supple- mental grains or home-grown feeds. The troughs may be constructed so that they can be pulled out of the hutch for cleaning, filling, and disinfecting. Guards placed on the feed troughs and spaced just far enough apart to allow mature animals to feed, will help keep young rabbits out of the troughs and from contaminating the feed. Hoppers. — Feed hoppers of the proper design and size save con- siderable time and labor. These can be constructed from metal, wood, masonite, or other readily available materials. They should hold at least several days' suppl}^ of feed and be placed within the hutch or suspended on the outside (fig. 6). The opening through which the rabbits obtain feed should be not more than 4 inches above the hutch floor so that 3^oung rabbits can readily obtain feed. An in- expensive feed hopper that will hold about 15 pounds of pellets or grain can be made from a common square 5-gallon can (figs. 8, 9). First, cut off the top. Then cut holes in two opposite sides. If the hopper is to be hung on the side of the hutch, cut a hole on one side onlj^ The holes should be 4 inches high, 4 inches from the bottom, and 1 inch from each side. Bend the rough edges inward to give a smooth edge all around and to add rigidity. Take a 1- by 4- by 13}2-inch board and cut it diagonally into two equal triangular pieces. Use these as supports to the baffle boards, which are nailed to them. The baffle boards, of l/2-ii^cli Ply- wood, should extend 1 inch below the bottom of the side openings of the can. The space between the lower ends of the baffle boards permits the grain or pellets to flow N45944 Figure 8. — Feed hopper (self-feeder) constructed from 5-gallon can. 424-402 O - 71 - 3 16 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 0 9, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE Metal \" Board ^ Gallon Can Cover 13'/2" Front & Reor ,Nail 2 Sid( / lO'A" Metal from Feeder Opening 10 d V Nail/ - 9'/4"- Boffle '/4" 3 Ply or Other Light Moterial r'x 4" Board Cut Diagonally Baffle Figure 9. — Details of feed hopper made from 5-gallon can. down as the rabbits eat. Make the baffle boards to fit snugly against the sides of the can so feed cannot sHp by. Mount the top corners of the baffles so that each baffle will rest against the top edge of the can. Cover the exposed edges of boards with tin to prevent gnaw- ing. Put a finishing nail in the COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISn^TG 17 outer edge of the triangular piece supporting the baffle, and bend the nail to hook over the lower lip of the opening to hold it and the baffle in place. You can save hutch floor space by using a hopper with a feed opening on one side only and by placing the hopper only part way into the hutch. Cut an opening large enough to accommodate the hopper in the side of the hutch. Then wire the top of the hopper to the hutch for support. One short baffle on the side opposite the hopper opening will keep feed out of the rear corners. A one-compartment feed hopper is used when only one kind of feed is given. When mixed feed that the rabbits can separate is offered in the hopper, the feed will be selectively consumed. The rabbits scratch out and waste the part they prefer not to eat. You can prevent this waste by using a hopper with individual compartments for each feed. Equipment (or Waterins Rabbits should have clean, fresh water at all times. Crocks.^ — Half-gallon water crocks are still used rather extensively. Fasten them in the hutches so that the rabbits will not tip them over. If a part of the crock extends through the front wall of the hutch, you can refill it without opening the hutch door. Clean and dis- infect the crocks periodicall}^. Coffee Cans. — Coffee cans are es- pecially useful for watering rabbits during cold weather because you can easily break and remove the ice. Cans are, however, easily tipped over unless you fasten them to a board. Automatic Watering System.— Automatic watering systems are widely used in commercial rabbit- ries (fig. 10). They are better than w^ater crocks or coffee cans. They eliminate the tedious and time- consuming chores of washing, dis- infecting, rinsing, and filling. They supply fresh, clean water for the rabbits at all times. When an auto- matic watering system is properly installed, dirt and fur will not collect in it and plug it up. In cold cli- mates, an automatic watering sys- tem must be protected against winter freezing unless the hutches are in a heated enclosure. Protec- tion may be obtained through the use of heating cables wrapped around, or running through the water pipe. If winter temperatures are not too severe, protection against freezing can be obtained by having valves at the ends of the water lines and allowing water to dribble throught the pipes during short periods of subfreezing tem- peratures. 12767A Figure 10. — Young rabbit drinking from an automatic waterer. If you can cut and thread pipe, you can install an automatic water- ing system. Conventional systems sold by rabbit and poultry supply houses consist of a pressure-reduc- ing tank equipped with a float valve, a lA-inch supply pipe, a watering unit for each hutch, and 18 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE valves. The valves are used to bleed out air bubbles, to drain the system as needed, or to shut off the water. If the water contains sedi- ment, a half -barrel can be advan- tageously used instead of the stand- ard pressure-reducing tank. The outlet for the supply pipe can be installed several inches above the bottom of the barrel. The sedi- ment will then collect below the outlet pipe and will not get into the system and clog it. Other sedi- ment traps, installed between the tank and the supply pipe to the hutches, can be used with any type of tank. One-gallon tanks or smaller tanks sometimes are used where the weather is warm. Such tanks are emptied more often. The constant flow of water in and out of the tank keeps fresh cool water before the rabbits at all times. Install the pressure tank 1 foot or more above the highest hutch. If the supply pipe is raised to clear the feeding alleys, then install the tank about 1 foot above this high- est point. Raised supply pipes may require vent pipes to keep air bubbles out of the system. Install the vent pipe at the highest point in the supply line. See that the open end is at least 1 foot above the water level in the tank. If it is necessary to change the level of the supply line from one row of hutches to another, use a piece of rubber hose to make the connection. Determine the correct height for the tank by fastening a rubber hose to the tank outlet and then to the supply pipe. Raise or lower the tank until the valves, or dewdrops, from which the rabbits drink have the proper tension. If there is too much tension or pressure on the valves, the rabbits will not be able to trip them. Under too little tension, the valves will drip. The proper height for the water valve is 9 inches from the hutch floor for medium and heavy breeds and 7 inches for the smaller breeds. The pipe may be hung on the out- side and at the back of the hutch so no water drips on the rabbits and the hutch floor. An opening in the back of the hutch will per- mit the rabbit to use the valve (fig. 10). When hutches are back to back use one pipe for supplying w^ater to both luitches. Use a four-way outlet and short nipples for in- stalling the valves. You can install one drinking valve for each hutch by drilling and tapping the supply pipe and screwing the valve into it. If you are not equipped to make the plumbing installation, substi- tute a 34-inch rubber hose for the 1/2 -inch supply pipe. Cut a hole in tlie hose and screw in the valve. Plastic pipe may be used in a simi- lar manner. If a rubber hose or plastic pipe is used it should be hung on the outside of the hutch to minimize possibilities of dam- age due to chewing or gnawing. Check the automatic watering system periodically, especially when you put a rabbit in a hutch that has been unoccupied for sev- eral days. When valves are not used — even for a few^ days — min- erals in the water may cause them to stick. Rabbits learn to use the system readily, even young just out of the nest box. Nest Boxes No one type of nest box is best suited for all conditions, but all should provide seclusion for the doe at kindling and comfort and protection for the young. Nest boxes should be large enough to prevent crowding and small enough to keep the young together. All types should provide good drainage COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING 19 and proper ventilation. Two gen- eral kinds have been used exten- sively—the box type and the nail- keg type. If a nail keg is used, nail a 1- by 6-inch board across the open end of the keg, so that it covers one-third to one-half of the opening. To keep the keg from rolling, extend the board a few inches beyond the sides of the open- ing. Drill several 1-inch holes in the closed end of the keg for venti- lation, and some 14-inch holes in the bottom for drainage. Since nail kegs have become dif- ficult to obtain, apple and pear boxes are frequently used. These may be fitted with tops or left open. In either event, an opening should be cut in one end at the top, or a portion of one end re- moved, to provide easy access for the doe and young. As an alterna- tive, one end may be fitted with re- movable boards, or slats, so that as the young begin leaving the nest, panels may be removed to allow the young to reenter the nest box. Metal nest boxes also are available but have the disadvahtage, in some climates, of being cold or collecting condensation of water vapor. Another type of nest box in- creasing in popularity is the coun- terset type, where the box is re- cessed below the hutch floor (figs. 6, 11). These may be placed at the front of the cage and fitted with drawers for access from the ex- terior of the hutch. They have the advantages of providing a more natural environment, since rabbits are burrowing animals, and of allowing the young easier ac- cess if they should be displaced from the nest at an early age. The young can jump out of the stand- ard nail-keg or apple-box nest, but they often cannot jump or climb back in. This means that some of the young may go hungry when the litter becomes divided. The doe usually nurses her young at night or in the early evening and morning hours. If the litter is divided, the doe will either nurse the young in the nest or those on the hutch floor. She will not nurse N 45948 Figure 11. — Counterset nest box and drawer as illustrated in figure 6. 20 AGRICXILTURE HANDBOOK NO. 309, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE both groups, nor will she pick up the young and return them to the nest. The counterset nest boxes are easier to keep clean than the apple- box and nailkeg nest boxes because the inner drawers of the counterset nest box can be slipped out for wash- ing and disinfecting. These draw- ers also can be interchanged from one hutch to another. When the young no longer need the inner drawer, it can be left out to provide more space in the hutch. BILL OF MATERIAL FOR NEST BOX AND DRAWER Nest box: Sides. — Two pieces of lumber,^ 1 by 12 by 17 inches. End. — One piece of lumber, 1 by 8 by 1214 inches. Door. — One piece of lumber, 1 by 121/4, inches. Winter enclosure. — One piece of lumber, 1 by 8 by 12 14 inches. Cover. — One piece of l^-inch hardboard, 12 by 121/4, inches. Bottom. — One piece of 16-gage galvanized wire, 1- by l/^-inch mesh, 12 by 18 inches. Nest drawer: Sides. — Two pieces of Vs'iiich hardboard (tempered), 71/4 by 16% inches. Ends. — Two pieces of lumber, 1 by 8 by 10 inches. Bottom. — One piece of i^-inch hardboard (tempered), 81/^ by 16% inches. Miscellaneous : Nails. — ^Use sixpenny or eight- penny nails to fasten the end, top, and sides of the nest box, eightpenny to fasten the nest drawer, and lV4-inch roofing nails (large head) to fasten *No. 2 construction knotty pine or 1-inch box lumber. the wire bottom to the nest box. Protecting strips. — To prevent chewing and splintering, nail 30-gage galvanized sheet metal, bent to form a I/2- by %-inch angle, to the exposed edges of the nest box and drawer. Hinges. — T wo 1-inch strap hinges for the door. In shaping the sides of the nest box for the slanted roof, you can use the piece of lumber cut from the rear of each side to build up the front. The completed sides should be 17 inches long, and should slant from 16 inches tall in the front to 8 inches tall at the rear (fig. 6). Suspend the completed nest box in the hutch by the cradle of No. 12 wire at the rear and the three re- maining strands of hutch flooring in the front. The cradle of No. 12 wire can be made in three sections to fit down each side of the box and under the bottom, or in one long piece. In either case it is merely hooked onto the hutch flooring next to the nest box on one side, passed down and across beneath the box and up the other side to a^ain hook on the hutch floor. This provides adequate sup- port for the rear of the nest box. Slip the three strands of flooring into notches cut into the front end of the nest box just above the door. To prevent the nest box from slipping to the rear so that the floor wire at the front end no longer acts as a support, the side boards of the nest box can be cut so as to extend a little above the back board of the nest box. Then as the back board comes up under the hutch floor, these side boards project a little above the floor and prevent the nest from being pushed to the rear. COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING 21 To help keep the nest dry, cut some 1/4, -inch drain holes on the bottom of the nest-box drawer. Losses of young rabbits kindled in winter can be largely prevented if you furnish proper nesting ac- commodations. If a doe reacts normally to her newborn litter by pulling enough wool to make a warm nest and feeding her young, and if the nest box is well insu- lated, the young can survive tem- peratures as low as 15° to 20° be- low zero. You can make a good type of winter nest box by placing a stand- ard size nest box inside a larger box. Pack straw into the space of 3 inches or so on all sides except entrance and top. A lid of ordi- nary box wood covered on the under side with two thicknesses of paper will supply the necessary top insulation. Make two or three holes, 1/^- to %-inch in diameter, in the lid at the end opposite the opening to the nest box, for venti- lation and to prevent condensation within the nest box. On the bot- tom of the inner box, put one or two layers of corrugated cardboard or several thicknesses of paper to keep the newborn litter from com- ing in contact with the cold boards. Fill the nest box so completely with new, clean straw that the doe will have to burrow into it to form a cavity for a nest. Inspect the box daily for the first 3 or 4 days. If the cardboard or paper becomes damp from accumulated moisture, remove it promptly. Replace it if cold weather continues. A simpler nest box for use in winter consists of a single box lined completely with one or two layers of corru- gated cardboard and filled with straw. FEEDS AND FEEDING Success in raising rabbits is im- possible if you do not give enough attention to diets and provide wholesome feeds in adequate quan- tity each day. Feed is one of the biggest items of expense in raising rabbits and each herd presents an individual problem. Select diets that are suited to the needs of your rabbits, whether you buy commercially prepared mixtures or pellets, or mix feeds yourself. Feed Requirements Rations for dry does, herd bucks, and developing young should pro- vide the following: Percent of ration Crude protein 12 to 15 Fat 2 to 3.5 Fiber 20 to 27 Nitrogen-free extract 43 to 47 Ash or mineral 5 to 6.5 Rations for pregnant does and does with litters should contain more protein. Their rations should include : Percent of ration Crude protein 16 to 20 Fat 3 to 5.5 Fiber 15 to 20 Nitrogen-free extract 44 to 50 Ash or mineral 4.5 to 6.5 Tlie nutrient contents of common rabbit feeds are shown in table 2, and daily requirements for various weights of rabbits are shown in table 3. Further information on nutrient contents may be obtained from Morrison's Feeds and Feed- ing {lOy and National Research Council Publication No. 1194 {12). The protein content of rations is important in development of ^ Italic numbers in parentheses refer to the Literature Cited, p. 69. 22 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE Table 2. — Digestible protein and total digestible nutrients of some common rabbit feeds [Dry roughages and concentrates on an air-dry basis] Feed Dry matter Digestible crude protein Total digestible nutrient DRY ROUGHAGES Alfalfa hay, common Alfalfa hay, very leafy Bluegrass hay Clover hay, red Lespedeza hay, annual Sorghum fodder, milo Oat hay Peanut hay, without nuts. Soj^bean hay Sudangrass hay Timothy hay Vetch hay (common) GREEN ROUGHAGES, ROOTS, AND TUBERS Alfalfa Cabbage, aerial portion. Carrots, roots Clover Rutabagas, roots Sweet potatoes, roots Turnips, roots CONCENTRATES Barley grain Beet pulp, dried Bread, dried Brewers' grains, dried. Buckwheat grain Corn, grain dent #2... Cottonseed meal Linseed meal Milk, cows Milk, dried Oats, grain Peanut meal Sorghum grain, milo.. Soybcan meal Soybean seed Wheat grain Wheat bran Percent of ration 90 90 92 88 89 91 88 89 89 89 21 9 12 20 11 32 9 89 90 64 93 88 85 92 91 13 96 90 93 89 91 90 89 90 Percent of ration 11 16 6 5 6 10 6 3 10 10 4 8 23 7 7 32 31 3 26 9 39 8 40 33 11 14 Percent of ration 40 58 31 43 39 35 26 46 43 43 32 46 15 9 10 13 10 28 8 70 70 65 58 70 82 66 70 16 117 65 85 84 82 98 79 57 young, for maintaming the breed- ing herd, and for wool production. It also is a factor in the quantity of food required for a certain gain in live weight. Adding the proper quantity of protein supplement to a ration composed of grains and hay increases the rate of growth of young rabbits 13 to 20 percent and effects a saving of 20 to 25 percent in the quantity of feed required for a unit of gain. Protein is the most expensive part of the feed, but the propor- COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING 23 Table 3. — Daily nutrient requirements oj rabbits per animal [All feeds or rations are based on air-dry weights] Phase of production and body weight Total feed Total digestible nutrients Total protein Digestible protein Normal growth, does or bucks, 4 to 9 lb., average 6.5 lb - - - Lb. 0. 32 .25 .30 .34 . 38 . 20 .33 . 45 .25 . 41 .56 Lb. 0. 19 . i6 . 19 . 22 .25 . 11 . 18 . 25 . 15 .24 .33 Lb. 0.05 .04 . 05 . 05 .06 .03 .04 .05 . 04 .06 .08 Lb. 0.03 Normal growth and fattening, does or bucks: 4 lb . 03 5 lb . _ . _ - .04 6 lb . 04 7 lb - .05 Maintenance, does or bucks: 5 lb . 02 1 0 lb - - - .03 15 lb -- . 01 Pregnant docs: 5 lb - . 03 10 lb - . 05 15 lb . .06 tions recommended are those that have proved most economical. The upper limits suggested give better results than the lower. There is no danger in feeding higher levels of protein than recommended pro- vided the ration is adequate in all other ingredients. Thus, if your herd is small or if it would be dif- ficult to feed two rations, you can give feed intended for pregnant does and for does with suckling litters to the entire herd. j\Iany rabbit raisers will have homegrown grains and hay or will be able to purchase them locally. These feeds in their natural form are satisfactory if you use addi- tional protein to balance them properly. Feed them in separate compartments of a self-feeder or use the plant - protein supple- ments— soybean, peanut, sesame, cottonseed, and linseed meals in the pea-size cake, flake, or pelleted form — with whole grain to make up the concentrate part of the ra- tion. If you hand-feed the mix- ture, use a container that prevents the rabbits from scratching: out and Avasting the feed. If you use finely ground mill products in the mixture, dampen the feed just be- fore feeding to prevent the fine meals from settling out and being wasted. Hay For your rabbits, choose hay that is fine stemed, leafy, green, well cured, and free from mildew or mold. If you feed whole, coarse hay, a good deal will be wasted. The rabbits will pull a stem out of the hay manger, eat part of it, and drop the rest. To prevent some of this waste and to put the hay in a more convenient form for feeding, cut it into 3- or 4-inch lengths. The legume hays, such as alfalfa, clover, lespedeza, cowpea, vetch, kudzu, and peanut are palatable and make good feed for rabbits. The carbonaceous liays, such as timothy and prairie, and hays made from johnsongrass, sudangrass, or dallisgrass, are less pahitable than legume hays, but are valuable for 24 AGRICUXTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE feeding where legume hays are not readily available. The grass hays ordinarily con- tain only about half as much pro- tein as legume hays. If you feed them, include more pro- tein supplement in the diet. If they are cut before the plants are in bloom, when the stems are fine and there is a high proportion of leaf, the grass hays are much more suitable for feeding. They have a higher protein content at this time but they never contain as much protein as legume hays. Hays furnish bulk or fiber in addition to nutrients. Rabbits fed insufficient bulk have soft drop- pings that mash on the hutch floor and cause increased labor in keep- ing the hutch clean. They also may chew their fur. If you feed young rabbits too much bulk they will not get enough nutrients for rapid growth and market finish. Green Feed and Root Crops Rapid-growing plants, such as grasses, palatable weeds, cereal grains, and leafy garden vegetables free from insecticides, are high in vitamins, minerals, and proteins, and make excellent feeds, espe- cially for the breeding herd. Use them in the diet when they fit into the management program. Root crops, such as carrots, sweetpotatoes, turnips, mangels, beets, and Jerusalem- artichokes, are desirable feeds throughout the year, and are particularly good in winter when green feeds are not available. Fresh green feeds and root crops should be used as supplements to the concentrate part of the diet. You will get best results when you use variety. Fresh feeds contain 90 percent or more of water. Use them only as supplements to grain or pellets when choice carcasses are desired. You can use them to maintain mature animals that are not in production. Feed root crops and green feed sparingly to rabbits that are un- accustomed to them. There is no danger in feeding fresh green feed that is wet with dew or rain. Do not use feed that has been piled and become heated. Place green feed in a hay man- ger; never throw it on the floor of the hutch. Contaminated feed may cause digestive disturbances or re-infect rabbits with internal parasites. Remove any feed that is not readily consumed. Grains and Milled Feeds Use oats, wheat, barley, the grain sorghums, buckwheat, and rye as whole grains or as milled products. You can feed the softer varieties of corn whole, but there will be considerable waste of the flinty varieties unless you feed them in meal or cracked form. The grains are quite similar in their food values and you can substitute one for another on a pound-for-pound basis without materially altering the nutritive value of the ration. Milled-wheat products such as bran, middlings, shorts, and red- dog flour, and byproducts from manufacturing foods from other grains for human use may be in- cluded in mash mixtures and pellets. Rabbits eat sunflower seeds read- ily, but because they have a much higher value for other uses they seldom are included in rabbit diets. Protein Supplements Soybean, peanut, sesame, cotton- seed, and linseed meals are rich in protein and desirable for balancing rabbit rations. These feeds in meal form are used in mashes and pel- leted rations but are unsatisfactory COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING 25 for mixing with grains. They will settle out of the grain mixture and be largely wasted. The pea-size cake, the flake form, or the meals made into a pellet are satisfactory for use with whole grains. If their protein content is the same, the meals in pea-size cake, flake, or pelleted form provide approxi- mately the same nutritive value. Make your selection on availability and cost. Use fresh plant -protein supplements. Although soj^bean seeds contain approximately 36 percent protein and 18 percent fat, the meal from the seeds, with fat extracted, has as much as 4.5 percent protein and 1 to 5 percent fat. If there is an oil mill nearby, you may be able to exchange homegrown soybeans for the meal. Rabbits do not eat the seeds readily — feed only about 1 pound of them for each 10 pounds of grain. Using this pro- portion of soybeans in a whole- grain legume hay diet will improve the protein content slightly but not enough for maximum growth. Some caution should be observed in using cottonseed meal as a pro- tein supplement. Untreated cot- tonseed meal contains gossypol, a substance which is toxic to rab- bits. Therefore, only degossypol- ized meal should be used. Recent evidence from the U.S. Rabbit P]x- periment Station indicates that degossypolized cottonseed meal is a suitable replacement for soybean meal at levels up to 7 percent of the diet. Miscellaneous Feeds Dry bread or other table and kitchen waste (except meat and greasy or sour foods) are accept- able to most rabbits. TVlien used as supplements to grain and rough- age or pelleted rations, they add variety to the diet. When the cost is not prohibitive, cow's or goat's milk may be used in the diet. If the milk is not sour or contami- nated, it will not cause digestive troubles. Dry bread mixed with milk is a satisfactoiy feed for does with young litters and for rabbits being conditioned for shows. Pelleted Rations Many brands of pelleted rations are on the market. Ingredients and proportions vary but they are usually made according to recom- mended specifications of nutrient or feed content. Follow the ad- vice of the manufacturer. Pelleted rations require little storage space and are easily fed. In some localities they are the only rabbit feeds available. There are two types of pelleted diets — the all-grain pellet to be fed with hay and the complete pellet (green pellet). The complete pel- let usually contains all the food elements necessary for a balanced diet. The choice between a home- mixed feed or a pelleted feed will depend on the availability and relative cost, and how much time you have for preparing the ration and feeding the herd. Pellets should be. i/g- to %q- inch in diameter and %- to I/4- inch long. If pellets are too large, small rabbits cannot get them in their mouths. The rabbits bite off a part of the pellet and drop the rest. The discarded part is lost through the wire hutch floor or is left to become contaminated on solid floors. It is usually impractical for you to pellet your own rations. Salt Salt is necessary in the diet. Put small blocks or salt spools in the hutch so the animals can feed 26 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE at will, or add 0.5 to 1.0 percent salt to mixed feed or pellets. Salt blocks or spools will cause corro- sion of any metal with which they are in contact, so it is not advis- able to use them in all-wire hutches. In areas where the soil is deficient in certain mineral elements, use mineralized salts, as fed to other farm animals, in rabbit rations. Water Rabbits need ready access to fresh, pure water at all times. In summer, they require large quanti- ties. A 10- to 12-pound doe and her 8-week old litter of seven will drink about a gallon of water in 24 hours. Preparins and Storing Feeds Wliole grains are satisfactory for feeding rabbits. Milled prod- ucts, whether rolled, cracked, or ground, lose some of their food value and apparently become less palatable if stored for any length of time, especially during the sum- mer. Coarse hay is more conveni- ent to feed and less wasteful if you cut it into 3- or 4-inch lengths. Cutting the hay you feed to An- gora rabbits helps keep the wool clean. Sometimes you can save money by storing home-grown . feed or feed purchased as it is harvested. Store it in rodent- and insect-proof containers. Protect grains, pellets, hay, or other feeds and bedding materials from contamination by cats or dogs; otherwise the rabbits may become infested with a cat or dog tapeworm. Methods of Feeding Two methods of feeding are in general practice. One entails plac- ing a measured amount of feed in feed crocks or troughs each day, and is referred to as "hand feed- ing." The other utilizes a hopper, or self-feeder, which holds several days' supply of feed, and is re- ferred to as "self-feeding" or "full- feeding," since feed is available to the rabbits at all times and they can feed at will. Crocks or troughs may be used for full-feeding, but will have to be filled more fre- quently than hoppers and are more susceptible to waste and contami- nation. The hopper feeding sys- tem saves time and labor and pre- \ents waste and contamination if the hop])er is properly constructed. Full-feeding in crocks or troughs produces about the same results as hopper feeding, provided you feed the animals all they will consume each day without waste. If you cannot give close attention, hopper feeding will give better results. ^Vliether, in hand feeding, a herd of rabbits should be fed 1, 2, or 3 times a day is largely a matter of personal preference and con- venience. Regularity is more im- portant than the number of feed- ings. Rabbits eat more at night than during the day, especially in warm weather. Full feeding insures rapid growth and economical develop- ment of young to weaning. Full- fed rabbits generally require less feed than hand-fed rabbits to produce each pound of live weight because they eat frequently and slowly and chew their food thor- oughly. Occasionally a rabbit goes "off feed." "Wlien this happens, reduce the quantity of the ration. The offer of a tempting morsel of car- rot, bread and milk, or fresh green feed may induce the rabbit to be- gin eating again. COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING 27 Feeding Dry Does^ Herd Bucks, and Juniors You can maintain mature dry does and herd bucks not in service on hay alone if you freely feed a Hue stemmed, leafy, green-colored, legume hay. If you feed coarse legume hays or carbonaceous hays, feed each 8-pound animal 2 ounces (I/3 cup) of a grain-protein mix- ture or an all-grain pellet several times each week. For rabbits of other weights, adjust the quantity. For example, feed 3 ounces to a 12-pound animal. Feed herd bucks in service the same quantity of concentrates and give them free access to choice hay; or provide them with 4 to 6 ounces of a complete pellet daily. RegiUate the amount to keep them in good condition and to assure that they do not become too fat. For developing junior does and bucks, regulate the concentrate portion of the diet so that the animals will grow and be in good condition when they are ready for breeding. With the medium- weight breeds (9 to 12 pounds at maturity), hold the grain-protein mixture or the all-grain pellet on a daily level of 2 to 4 ounces and allow free access to a good-quality hay. As the rabbits develop, they will eat more hay to get the addi- tional nutrients required for growth. "When using a complete pellet, -4 to 6 ounces daily should be sufficient. Take precautions to prevent juniors from becoming too fat when they are fed concentrates or a complete pellet. An alfalfa pellet, consisting of 99 percent No. 2 leafy, or better grade, alfalfa meal (15 to 16 per- cent protein) and 1 percent salt, may be full fed to developing junior does and bucks as the only feed from weaning until they are to be placed in the breeding herd. In the event that alfalfa pellets are unavailable through local mills, a coarse crumble or turkey-grind crumble, composed entirely of al- falfa, may serve as a satisfactory feed for developing stock. If a crumble is used it might be ad- visable to place a small salt block or spool in the hutch, though there is evidence from trials at the U.S. Rabbit Experiment Station that the animals may do without the extra salt for the few months be- fore they are placed in the breed- ing herd. Note: Nutritive value of diets, and daily feed requirements of in- dividual rabbits, vary. Observe the condition of your individual rabbits and increase or decrease quantities of feed to obtain de- sired physical condition. Feeding Pregnant and Nursing Does To feed a doe properly, it is nec- essary to know definitely whether she has conceived. Palpating (feel- ing for the developing young in the uteri) at 12 to 14 days follow- ing breeding is a quick and accu- rate method of determining preg- nancy (see p. 35). After mating, you may maintain junior and mature does in breed- ing condition on good-quality hay or hay pellets until you have de- termined that they are pregnant. If your herd is receiving only com- plete pellets, restrict the amount that bred does receive daily to that quantity which will keep them in the desired physical condition un- til pregnancy is determined. Full- feeding complete pellets to a bred doe will cause her to put on too much flesh if she fails to conceive. If a doe fails to conceive as deter- min'3d by palpation, breed her again and feed only hay, or re- stricted amounts of complete pel- 28 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE lets, until she is pregnant. Wlien she is diagnosed as pregnant, give her all the concentrates she will eat plus good-quality hay, or all the complete pellets she will eat for the remainder of the gestation period. You can provide the con- centrates in the form of grain and a protein pellet or all-grain pellets. All-grain pellets have the neces- sary amount of plant-protein sup- plement incorporated with grain and salt to make a complete feed when fed with a good quality hay. The general practice is to feed pelleted complete feed. Sudden changes in rations fed during the gestation period may cause some does to go "otf feed." If they fail to eat necessary nu- trients for too long a period of time, abortion or young that are dead at birth may result. Gradu- ally change over a new ration by feeding one-fourth new ration and three-fourths old ration for 3 to 4 days, one-half new ration and one- half old ration for 3 to 4 days, and then three-fourths new ration and one- fourth old ration for 3 to 4 days. After the doe kindles, she can be fed in the same manner as be- fore, until the young are weaned when about 2 months old. From the day of kindling feed her all she readily will consume without waste, or a grain-protein mixture and hay, an all-grain pellet and hay, or a complete pelleted feed until the litter leaves the nest box. As the litter develops, feed the doe and litter greater quantities or full- feed them to insure maximum growth of the young. If you use a feed hopper and the hutch is small (less than 10 square feet of floor space for a 10- to 12-pound doe), placing a hopper in it with the nest box may make it too crowded. Full-feed the doe using a crock or trough until the nest box is removed, then introduce the hopper. Inspect the hopper occa- sionally to make sure that feed is always available. COPROPHAGY Rabbits re-ingest part of their food, usuall}' in the early morning, when they are unobserved. They re-ingest only the soft matter that has passed through the digestive tract. Investigators have called this trait "pseudo - rumination," from the characteristic of rumi- nants (cows, sheep, and others) of chewing the cud, which is food regurgitated and chewed again. Most rabbit breeders are unaware of this practice. Some who have observed it believe it indicates a nutritional deficiency. It is, how- ever, normal in rabbits and may actually enhance the nutritive value of the feed by virtue of a second passage through the diges- tive tract. REPRODUCTION Germ Cells and Fertilization Rabbits do not show regular estrous cycles, that is, recurrent periods of sexual desire. During the breeding season the doe re- mains in heat for long periods of time. If she is not bred, the fol- licles in the ovary remain large and active for a period of 12 to 16 days. After this time they begin to regress. Meanwhile, new fol- licles grow to replace them. As a result, active follicles are present COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING 29 at all times during the breeding season. There may be a transi- tional period, while the new set of follicles is growing and the old set is retrogressing, when the doe lacks interest in the male and i3 temporarily sterile. Ovulation usually does not occur in the female unless she is mated to a male. Following mating, the large follicles in the ovary begin to grow rapidly. These break about 10 hours after mating. This process of shedding the egg is called ovulation. In the meantime the sperm from the male move through the female tract to the upper part of the tubes so that when the eggs are shed from the follicles, the sperm enter and fer- tilize them. These fertilized eggs then undergo a number of changes and grow to become the develop- ing fetuses. The young fetuses grow and develop in the uterus and this period of development usually takes 30 to 32 days. After the eggs are shed, the cells that line the follicles begin to grow and form small yellow bodies in the ovary, called the corpora lutea. These bodies secrete a hormone called progesterone, which is nec- essary to cause the uteri to grow and secrete substances that feed the developing young. The practical method for meas- uring fertility in does is to deter- mine the total number of live young born from each gestation. The litter size varies with the strain or breed, and the more fer- tile strains will produce an aver- age of about eight young per preg- nancy. Many factors, such as nu- trition, heredity, and environment, affect fertility. Does that are un- derfed will not come in heat, and the quality of semen from starved bucks is lowered. Also, though experimental proof is lacking, there is a widespread opinion that does and bucks which are exces- sively fat have lowered reproduc- tive capacities due to decreased sexual urge, or libido, or inter- ference with the passage of eggs and sperm in the small reproduc- tive tubules. Hereditary charac- ters that affect fertility in does are number of eggs shed and fetal mor- tality. In highly fertile strains, the number of eggs shed averages about 10, while in low strains, the number may only be 4 or 5. In some low-fertility strains, normal numbers of ova are shed but an abnormally large number of em- bryos die during gestation. In fertile strains, about 15 to 20 per- cent of the fetuses die in the uterus during gestation. In some low- fertility strains, 80 percent of the fetuses die during the gestation period. Gestation Period The gestation period, or the pe- riod from mating to kindling, is 31 or 32 days. Some litters may be kindled as early as the 28th or 29th day, or as late as the 35th, but 98 percent of the normal litters will be kindled between the 30th and 33d day. If kindling is de- layed 2 or 3 days, generally one or more of the fetuses is unusually large. Age to Breed The proper age of bucks and does for the first mating depends on breed and individual develop- ment. Smaller breeds develop more rapidly and are sexually ma- ture at a much younger age than medium-weight or giant breeds. Does should be mated when they reach maturity; some difficulty may be experienced if mating is too long delayed. On the average, the smaller breeds may be bred when the bucks and does are 4 to 30 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE 5 months old, the medium-weight breeds at 5 to 6 months, and the giant breeds at 8 to 10 months. Some individual rabbits within a breed develop more rapidly than others, and does usually mature earlier than bucks. In commercial production, it is the general prac- tice -to hold bucks a month longer than does before breeding for the first time, though there is no ex- perimental proof that this is nec- essary. Breeding Schedule The breeding schedule you should follow is determined by the type of production. It probably would be better not to attempt to produce more than two or three litters a year in raising animals for show purposes. Arrange time of mat- ings so that the offspring will be of proper age and development for the show classification desired. In commercial production for meat and fur, work breeding animals throughout the year if possible. With a gestation period of 31 or 32 days and a nursing period of 8 weeks, a doe can produce four litters in a 12-month period if no failures or "passes" occur. Does of heavy producing strains can be mated 6 weeks after kindling, and, if no failures occur, will produce five litters in a year. Many com- mercial breeders are using breeding intervals of 21, 28, or 35 days after kindling to further increase the meat production of their herds. The general feeling is that for most efficient production, does should be worked to the extent of their genetic reproductive capaci- ties. Experimental evidence is lacking as to what effect these rapid breeding schedules may have on the reproductive life of the doe, fryer development, feed conversion as measured by the pounds of feed necessary to produce a pound of meat, mortality, and carcass quality. Wliere extreme temperatures make it undesirable to have litters kindled during 2 or 3 months of the year, does may be rebred 42 days after kindling and still pro- duce four litters. If a doe is full-fed a properly balanced ration during the suckl- ing period, she should be in con- dition for breeding before the lit- ter is weaned. If, however, the doe is not in good physical condi- tion at the scheduled breeding time, she should not be bred until she is. If the litter is lost at kin- dling, or the size of the litter is materially reduced for other rea- sons, and the doe is in good con- dition, she may be rebred earlier than called for by the regular schedule, but not earlier than 3 or 4 days after kindling. Lactation During the last week of preg- nancy the mammary glands de- velop rapidly. Though milk may be produced before kindling, and actually leak from the glands of high-producing does, the actual let- down and production is usually delayed until kindling, and is initi- ated under hormonal and nervous stimuli induced by the action of suckling. Maximum milk produc- tion is usually reached by the third week, after which production grad- ually declines. The duration of lactation varies depending upon diet, number of suckling young, and the leng-th of time the young are left with the doe. Ordinarily, milk production is negligible after the sixth or seventh week, though in well-nourished, high-producing does with a litter of eight or nine, milk production may last for 8 weeks or longer. Milk has been observed in the stomachs of young weaned from the doe at 8 weeks of COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING 31 age, and milk can be expressed from the glands for several days thereafter. The amount of milk produced depends upon several factors such as breed, strain, diet, and genetic constitution. Various studies of milk production in the rabbit in- dicate that during the height of lactation, milk yield may reach 35 grams per kilogram of live weight. On this basis, a 10-pound doe would produce approximately 140 grams (5 ounces) of milk per day. Contrary to popular belief, the doe does not nurse her young throughout the 24-hour period. For the very young in the nest box, nursing is usually performed during the night or early morning. It may consist of a single feeding of only a few minutes. After the young leave the nest box and are consuming solid food they will try to nurse several times during the day. However, the doe will usu- ally push them aside and restrict their nursing to the nighttime. Occasionally, does will allow the young to nurse during the day, as most rabbit breeders will agree. Students of animal behavior at- tribute the nursing habits of the doe to the fact that rabbits in their natural habitat are extensively preyed upon and rather helpless to defend their young. Therefore, it is advantageous for the doe to stay away from the young as much as possible. Factors That Limit Conception Among the causes of failure to conceive, or low conception rates, are false pregnancy (pseudopreg- nancy), season of the year, age, poor physical condition, sore hocks, injuries, and disease. Pseudopregnancy. — Does may be mated or stimulated sexually and shed the egg cells, yet fail to become pregnant. This false pregnancy may be caused by an infertile mating or sexual excitement when one doe rides, or is ridden by, another. Does which become pseu- dopregnant are unable to conceive until the false-pregnancy period, which lasts 17 days, is over. After 18 to 22 days, the doe may give evidence of the termination of false pregnancy by pulling fur and at- tempting to make a nest. When false pregnancy has terminated, doe will resume normal reproduc- tive activity and may be bred. Separate does that are to be mated and put each in an individual hutch 18 days before mating. They will have passed through any false pregnancy period by mating time. Season.' — Spring is the optimal breeding season for the rabbit. The percentage of conceptions is higher at this time of year than at others. Extreme temperatures, especially sudden changes to high tempera- tures, may cause the rabbits to go into a barren period that will con- tinue for some time. Also, it is not unusual for the percentage of conceptions in a herd to show a marked decrease during the late summer and the fall. For example, at the U.S. Rabbit Experiment Station conception rates varied from a high of about 85 percent in March and April to a low of 50 per- cent or less in September and Octo- ber. This is commonly referred to as the "fall breeding" problem in rabbits. The ovaries of the does may become inactive during the barren period, fail to produce nor- mal egg cells, and occasionally shrivel. Where the bucks are not settling the does, the sperm cells may be inactive, low in vitality, abnormal, or absent. Individual rabbits vary mark- edly as to duration of the barren period. Some does and bucks are fertile throughout the year for 424-402 O - 71 - 5 32 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE successive years. Others may go through periods of 4, 8, or 10 weeks when the does will not conceive or the bucks are sterile. Extreme cases in which no young are pro- duced for 4 to 5 months may occur in herds where bucks and does are out of condition because the ration has been inadequate in quality or quantity, or both. If the herd has been properly cared for, most bucks and does should complete the bar- ren period in 4 to 6 weeks. Because does and bucks vary so much with respect to breeding, you may well consider this factor care- fully. In selecting breeding stock, make your choice from offspring of parents that produce regularly. Age. — Young does may not be sexually mature at the time of serv- ice, and old does may have passed their period of usefulness and fail to conceive. Do not attempt the first mating until the does are sexually mature and properly developed; the proper age is discussed on page 29. Does should reproduce satisfac- torily as long as they maintain good physical condition and properly nurse their litters. Retain them if younger and better stock is not available for replacements. In commercial herds, does that are properly cared for should produce litters until they are 2K to 3 years old. An occasional individual rab- bit may reproduce satisfactorily 4 to 6 years, or longer. Physical Condition. — Rabbits that go "off feed," go into a pro- longed or heavy molt, become abnormally fat or thin, or become out of condition for any reason, may have their reproductive powers impaired. The percentage that will conceive will be low, since they may become temporarily sterile. Disease. — Never mate rabbits when they show any symptoms of disease. Remove such animals from the herd and hold them in quarantine until they recover. Artificial Insemination Artificial insemination has been practiced with rabbits for experi- mental purposes, but has not been applied to commercial breeding to any extent. The semen from bucks averages about 0.5 cc. in volume, with a range of 0.1 to 6 cc. It contains about 700 million to 2 billion sperm per cubic centimeter. The total number of sperm per ejaculate averages 250 million, which does not mean a great deal, because of the extreme variation. The total num- ber of sperm per ejaculate may range from 10 million to 12 billion. Semen is collected from the bucks by means of an artificial vagina. After the artificial vagina has been prepared, the collection is made by using a doe for a mounting animal. The doe is taken to the buck's cage and when the buck mounts, the artificial vagina is placed between the buck and the doe. "Wlien the buck locates the artificial vagina, he will ejaculate into the open end with the same behavior as when breeding natu- rally. The operator must be alert to prevent the buck from breeding the doe. After the buck has been trained, a dummy made of a stuffed rabbit skin may be sub- stituted for the mounting doe. If the ejaculate contains a clear gela- tinous plug, it should be removed from the liquid portion of the semen. A simple insemination tube has been described for insemination of the does. It consists of a glass tube and rubber bulb similar to a medicine dropper, with the last half -inch bent at a 30° angle. The COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISIN<5 33 bent end of the tube should have a diameter of %-inch and the tube should be 3 to 31/2 inches long. Droppers made from plastic tubes would be superior to glass because there is less danger from breakage. The ends of the tubes should be rounded to prevent damage to the vaginal walls. The number of does bred to a buck depends on many factors, so an extreme range is possible. For an average buck, collections can be made at least twice weekly and the number of does bred will de- pend on the motility, density, and volume of the semen produced. In general, artificial insemina- tion is applicable to the rabbit in- dustry, but not practical on a large-scale basis at the present time. Costs and technical prob- lems associated with the establish- ment of studs, the processing and storage of semen, training and maintaining technicians, and scarc- ity of concentrated areas of pro- duction, tend to prohibit the use of artificial insemination as a practi- cal tool of the industry. In addi- tion, better means of evaluating bucks, and the development of more accurate selection indices, are necessary before artificial insemi- nation in rabbits can be operated on a practical and profitable basis. MANAGING THE HERD Success in raising rabbits de- pends on efficient management. Become thoroughly acquainted with your animals — their charac- teristics and behavior, their likes' and dislikes. Consideration for the welfare of animals is always neces- sary for success in raising them. Proper arrangement of equipment, hutches, and buildings is also essen- tial to efficient management . When you enter the rabbitry, do it quietly and make your presence known by speaking in a low^ tone. Caution others to do the same. Otherwise, the rabbits may become f riglitened, race around in the hutch and injure themselves, or jump into the nest boxes and injure the litters. Methods of Hondlins Rabbits Never lift rabbits by the ears or legs. Handling in this manner may injure them. You can lift and comfortably carry small rabbits by grasping the loin region gently and firmly (fig. 12). Put the heel of the hand toward the tail of the animal. This method prevents bruising the carcass or damaging the pelt. N 45957 Figure 12. — Proper way to carry small rabbits. To lift and carry a medium- weight rabbit, let the right hand grasp the fold of skin over the rab- bit's shoulder. Support the rabbit by placing the left hand under its rump (fig. 13). 34 AGRICITLTURE HANDBOOK NO. 309, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE Figure 13. — Proper way to carry medium-sized and large rabbits. Lift and carry heavier rabbits in a similar manner. If the rabbit scratches and struggles, hold it snugly under the left arm. Making Matings Does may give evidence of being ready for mating by restlessness, nervousness, efforts to join other rabbits in nearby hutches, and by rubbing their chin on feed man- gers and water crocks. However, it is not necessary to depend on external signs to determine when a doe is to be bred. Set up a definite schedule and follow it, whether the doe shows signs of being ready for service or not. Breed a large number of does at one time to make fryers avail- able at a certain season for the trade, or utilize a breeding sched- ule to produce a constant supply. Always take the doe to the buck's hutch for service. You may have difficulty in service if you take the buck to the doe. The doe is likely to object to having another rabbit in her hutch and may savagely at- tack and injure the buck. Also, some bucks are slow in performing service in a strange hutch. Mating should occur almost immediately on placing the doe in the buck's hutch. After the buck mounts and falls over on his side, the mating is accomplished. Return the doe to her own hutch. It is difficult to get some does to accept service. Such does may be restrained for mating. To re- strain the doe (fig. 14), use the right hand to hold the ears and a fold of the skin over the shoulders, and place the left hand under the body and between the hind legs. Place the thumb on the right side of the vulva, the index finger on the left side (you may prefer to use the index and second finger), and push the skin gently backward. This procedure throws the tail up over the back. Support the weight of the body by the left hand, and elevate the hindquarters only to the normal height for service. B S3066 Figure 14. — How to restrain a doe for mating when service is not promptly accepted. Shows position of hands for holding the doe and supporting and elevating the hindquarters. COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING 35 Bucks and does accustomed to being handled will not object to such assistance. It is well to hold the doe in this way the first few times a young buck is used. This will expedite matings and insure service m difficult cases. With a little patience and prac- tice you can develop this teclinique to procure nearly 100-percent mat- ings. This does not necessarily mean that all of the restrained will kindle, but the technique will help in increasing the number of kin- dlings. Whether it is worthwhile to force-breed for increased preg- nancies depends largely upon the number oi does in production. Owners of large commercial rab- bitries generally do not force-mate their does due to the increased labor and time involved. For small rabbitries a few extra litters could be worth the effort, and for breeders of pedigreed show stock, where animals are removed from production part of the year, forced breeding will help maintain a sup- ply of replacements and stock for sale. Maintain 1 buck for approxi- mately each 10 breeding does. You can use mature, vigorous bucks several times a day for a short period. Keep a breeding record showing date of mating and name or num- ber of buck and doe. Determining Pregnancy It is not accurate to determine pregnancy by "test mating" (plac- ing the doe in the buck's hutch periodically). Some does will ac- cept service when pregnant and others will refuse service when they are not pregnant. Diagnos- ing pregnancy by noting the de- velopment of the abdominal region and gain in flesh is not dependable until late in pregnancy. You can quickly and accurately determine pregnancy by palpating, after 12 to 14 days from mating, but you must handle the doe gently. The method for restrain- ing the doe for palpating is illus- trated in figure 15. The doe may be palpated in her own hutch or if it is more convenient she may be placed on a table covered with feed sacks or carpeting to prevent slip- ping. The ears and a fold of skm over the shoulders are held in the right or left hand; the other hand is placed under the shoulder be- tween the hind legs and slightly m front of the pelvis; the thumb is placed on the right" side and the fingers on the left side of the two uteri for palpating the fetuses. At 12 to 14 days following mating, the fetuses have developed into marble-shaped forms that are easy to distinguish as they slip between the thumb and fingers when the hand is gently moved forward and backward and a slight pressure is exerted (fig. 16). Caution must be used in this operation, because if too much pressure is exerted, the tissues may be bruised or torn loose from the walls of the uteri and a toxic condition or abortion may result. There is less danger of bruising the tissues or causing the fetuses to be torn loose from the walls of the uteri in palpating at 12 to 14 days than at a later period. Also, diagnosing pregnancy after the 16th day of the gestation period is more complicated because the de- veloping fetuses are so large that they may be confused with diges- tive organs. The inexperienced rabbit owner should make exami- nations at 12 to 14 days and then as he improves his technique and attains confidence in the operation, he may be able to develop the abil- ity for diagnosing pregnancy ac- curately as early as the 7th or 8th 36 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE N 45951 Figure 15. — How to restrain a doe for palpating. day. The chief advantage to be derived from palpating as early as the 7th or 8th day would be in the case of the breeder selling bred does. Wlien it is desirable to ship bred does a considerable distance, diagnosing pregnancy at this early date makes it possible to have these does arrive at their destination in sufficient time to become settled and acquainted with their new en- vironment, with the minimum risk of complications at kindling. Figure 16 illustrates the con- tinual increase in size of the uterus and the fetuses as pregnancy ad- vances. The scale at the bottom of the illustration gives a means for arriving at a comparative esti- mate of the size of the fetuses. In each case, a fetus has been re- moved from the respective uterus. The 10-day fetus was so small that it does not show in the cut. By comparing the 14- and 21-day specimens it will be seen that the growth of the fetus is very rapid. If, on palpating, no fetuses are found to be present, the doe has failed to conceive, in which case she should be rebred. The doe that is pregnant can be placed im- mediately on a diet that is best suited for pregnant does. For the inexperienced person it would be good practice to repalp- ate a week later any does that have been diagnosed as nonpregnant. If a mistake has been made at the first handling the doe may then be given a nest box at the proper time before she is due to kindle. Kindling Place a nest box in the hutch about 27 days after the doe is mated. This allows the doe to pre- pare a nest in advance and assures a proper place for birth of the young. Sometimes does fail to pull fur to cover their litter, or they kindle the litter on the hutch floor and let them become chilled. If you discover the young in time, you COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING 37 B 79008 Figure 16. — Uteri from three does showing embryonic development of 10-, 14-, and 21-day pregnancies. The 10-day embryo was so small that it did not show in the picture. may be able to save them by warm- ing, even if they appear to be life- less. Arrange the bedding mate- rial to make a comfortable nest (fig. 17), and place the warmed young in it. The doe usually will take over from there. The doe's fur is easily removed at kindling time, and you can pull enough from the doe's body to cover the litter in the nest. It is advisable to keep extra fur on hand for such cases. Remove some fur from nests where does have pulled an excessive amount and keep it handy in a bag or box so it will remain clean. It is not necessary to sterilize or to deodorize the fur, or take any special measures to prevent the doe from smelling the strange fur. A day or two before kindling, the doe usually consumes less food than normally. Do not disturb her, but make her as comfortable as possible. You may tempt her at that time with small quantities of green feed. This will have a beneficial effect on her digestive system. Most litters are kindled at night. After kindling, the doe may be restless. Do not disturb her until she has quieted down. Complications at Kindling Time Anterior, or breech presentation of youn^ at birth is normal. If the doe is in proper condition for kindling, complications are rare. Pregnancy, however, makes a heavy demand on the doe and lowers her vitality, making her more susceptible to disease. A few days before or several days follow- ing kindling, pnuemonia may de- velop. If you are to treat pneu- 38 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE ^^^^^^^fffUfi^^^ *> ^wT^H^^^Hl kM^ rrr \Nl^ ■ i" BN 2ioir Figure 17.— Photo of new-born litter in nest. monia successfully, you must de- tect it early. The doe's head is held high and tilted backwards. Breathing is difficult. Make the doe comfortable and add a little green feed to the ration if possible. Injections of penicillin or a peni- cillin-streptomycin mixture are ef- fective in treating colds and pneu- monia and reducing mortality. Caked breast may be caused by the milk not being removed from the breast, or by injuries. Early symptoms of caked breast are firm, pink breasts that feel feverish to the touch. As caked breast de- velops, the tissues around the in- volved teats become enlarged and hard. The skin turns dark, the ends of the teats become discolored and tender, and the doe refuses to allow the young to nurse. Rub lanolin on the teats and massage the involved portion of the breast. You may restrain the doe to allow her own young or those from other litters to remove the milk. You may also strip the milk from the teats, taking care not to use too much pressure. Do not lance the tissues. Mastitis, or "blue breast," is caused by bacterial infection and may be very contagious. The doe fails to consume her feed and is inactive. The breast is congested and feverish, turns red or purple, and the teats are discolored. Re- duce feed, give some green feed, and inject penicillin intramuscu- larly in the thigh. (See treatment recommended for pneumonia.) Care of Young Litter On the day of kindling, or soon after, inspect the litter and remove any deformed, undersized, or dead young. If you are careful and quiet making the inspection, the doe generally will not object. There is no danger of causing her to dis- own the young. If she is nervous and irritable, place some tempting feed in the hutch immediately after inspection to distract her attention and quiet her. Litters vary in size. The utility breeds usually average eight young. Some may number 12 to 18. For commercial purposes 7, 8, or 9 may be left with the doe. Does from strains that have been developed for heavy production may care for 9 or 10. You can transfer some of the baby rabbits from a large litter to a foster mother that has a small litter. Adjusting the number of young to the capacity of the doe insures more uniform development and finish at weaning time. Mate several does so that they will kin- dle at about the same time. For best results, the young that are transferred should be within 3 or 4 days of the age of the foster mother's young. COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING 39 Causes of Losses in Newborn Litters If the doe is disturbed, she may kindle on the hutch floor and the litter may die from exposure. Even if predators — cats, snakes, rats, weasels, minks, bobcats, coyo- tes, strange dogs — cannot gain ac- cess to the rabbitry, they may be close enough for the doe to detect their presence, and she may be frightened and kindle prematurely. If she is disturbed after the litter is born and jumps into the nest box she may stamp with her back feet and injure or kill the newborn rabbits. Occasionally a doe fails to pro- duce milk. In such cases the young will starve within 2 or 3 days un- less the condition is noted and the young transferred to foster mothers. Keep a close check on newborn litters for several days after birth to make sure they are being fed and cared for properly. Does sometimes eat their young. This may result from a ration in- adequate in either quantity or quality, or from the nervousness of a doe disturbed after kindling. It is also possible that the doe is of a strain that exhibits poor ma- ternal instincts. Does usually do not kill and eat healthy young, but limit their cannibalism to young born dead, or those that are in- jured and have died. Proper feed- ing and handling during preg- nancy will do more than anything else to prevent this tendency. Give another chance to a valuable doe that destroys her first litter; if she continues the practice, dispose of her. Wean Ins Under most management pro- grams the young are weaned at 8 weeks of a^e. At that age young meat rabbits should average 4 pounds in weight and be ready for market. Some commercial pro- ducers leave the young with the doe for 9 or 10 weeks to get a 4%- to 5 V^ -pound fryer. Small litters (fewer than five young) can be weaned at an earlier age and the doe rebred. Also, under acceler- ated breeding programs where does are bred less than 35 days follow- ing kindling, it is advisable to wean the young at 5, 6, or 7 weeks of age to allow the doe to prepare for her next litter. It is best to allow a few days between removal of one litter and birth of the next. For example: if a doe is bred 28 days after kindling, it is possible to leave the litter with her until they are 56 days of age, allowing for kindling about 3 days later. It depends upon the condition of the doe and her ability to stand up under this type of program. You may wish to remove the young at 7 weeks of age and give the doe 7 to 10 days to prepare for the next kindling. Determining the Sex of Young Rabbits Separate the sexes at weaning, if you are saving junior replace- ments, or breeding stock. It is possible to determine accurately the sex of baby rabbits less than a week of age, but it is easier to do so when they are weaned. To keep the rabbit ' from struggling, re- strain it firmly, yet gently. A commonly used method is to hold the rabbit on its back between your legs with the head up. With your left hand restrain the rabbit around the chest holding the front legs forward alongside the head. Using the right hand, place the thumb behind the right hind leg and use the index and forefinger to depress the tail backward and downward. The thumb is then used 424-402 O '1 - 4 40 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE to gently depress the area in front of the sex organs to expose the red- dish mucous membrane. In the buck, the organ will protrude as a rounded tip, while in the doe the "membrane will protrude to form a slit with a depression at the end next to the anus. Marking for IdentiRcation Mark each breeding rabbit for identification. Tattooing the ears is a satisfactory method. When properly done, it is permanent and will not disfigure the ears. You can obtain instruments for the purpose from biological and live- stock supply houses. Ear tags and clips are not satisfactory because they tear out and disfigure the ear. Identification is then lost. An ad- justable box is convenient for re- straining the rabbits for tattooing (fig. 18). With this equipment, one person can do the job. Castration Castration of bucks may be de- sirable; for example, where An- goras are to be kept in colonies for wool production. In produc- ing domestic rabbit meat for mar- ket, there are no advantages to be derived from castrating bucks for improving the rate of growth and condition, reducing the quantity of feed required to produce a pound of gain in live weight, and improv- ing the carcass and pelt. Prob- ably the only advantage to be de- rived would be that it reduces fighting and makes possible the maintaining of a number of cas- trated bucks in one inclosure, there- by saving equipment, time, and labor. Castration is a simple oper- ation, most easily performed when bucks are 3 to 4 months old. You also can perform it at weaning time. To restrain an animal for the operation, have an assistant hold the buck's left forefoot and left hind foot with his left hand, and the right forefoot and right hind foot with his right hand, with the animal's back held firmly, but gently, against his lap. Clip all the wool from the scrotum. Disinfect a Figure 18. — Vertical section of a box for restraining a rabbit for tattooing. The spring-type holders tacked to the lower side of a movable floor compress the rabbit toward the top of the box. A movable cross partition holds the rabbit toward the front. Blocks of wood on each side hold the rabbit's head in the center of the hole at the top. COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING 41 sharp knife or razor blade. If you do not use a disinfecting agent on the rabbit, he will lick the wound frequently, keeping it clean and the tissues soft, thus promoting healing. Press one of the testicles out into the scrotum. Hold it firmly be- tween the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. Make an incision parallel to the median line and well toward the back end of the scrotum to allow the wound to drain readily. To keep the testi- cle from being drawn up into the abdominal cavity, as soon as it comes from the incision pull it out far enough from the body for the cord to be severed just above it. To prevent excessive hemorrhage, sever the cord by scraping with a knife rather than by cutting. If too much tension is put on the cord and it is drawn too far from the body, injury may be brought about by internal hemorrhage or other complication. After the second testicle has been removed in the same manner, lift the scrotum to make sure that the ends of the cord go back into the cavity. Handle the animal gently. After the operation, place it in a clean hutch where it can be quiet and comfortable. Care of Herd During Extreme Temperatures Heat. — In almost all sections of the United States high summer temper- atures necessitate some changes in the general care and management of rabbits. Provide adequate shade to the animals during the hottest part of the day. Good circulation of air throughout the rabbitry is necessary, but avoid strong drafts. Provide an abundant supply of water at all times. Newborn litters and does ad- vanced in pregnancy are most susceptible to high temperatures. Heat suffering in the young is characterized by exteme restless- ness; in older animals, by rapid respiration, excessive moisture around the mouth, and occasionally slight hemorrhages around the nos- trils. Move rabbits that show symptoms of suffering from the heat to a quiet, well-ventilated place. Give them a feed sack moistened with cold water to lie on. Water crocks and large bot- tles filled with cracked ice and placed in the hutch so that the rab- bits can lie next to them contribute to the rabbit's comfort. In well-ventilated rabbitries, wetting the tops of the hutches and the floors of the houses on a hot, dry day will reduce the temperatures 6 to 10 degrees F. The tops of hutches should be waterproof, as rabbits should be kept dry. You can use overhead sprinkling equipment in houses with concrete or soil floors that drain readily or sprinklers above the roof of rabbit sheds (fig. 2). You can install a thermostatically controlled sprinkler that will work automatically. The use of evaporative coolers on the roof or sides of the build- ings, whereby air is drawn over wet pads and distributed through the building, can be successfully used in hot, dry climates such as the southwest United States. This type of cooler is widely used in homes and can be adapted to use in rabbitries which are partially, or totally, enclosed. In areas of high humidity, the use of sprinklers or extra water will aggravate the situation and add to the rabbit's discomfort. Un- der such conditions, it is advisable to install fans, or place the build- ings to take advantage of all breezes, in order to get maximum movement of air. The use of re- 42 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE f rigerant air conditioning is usually uneconomical and impractical, due to the high initial investment and operating costs. During the summer it sometimes is difficult to regulate the quantity of fur in the nest box to keep the litter comfortable. A cooling bas- ket (fig. 19) then will provide re- lief for the young. It is useful from the time the young are kindled until their eyes are opened and tliey are able to care for them- selves. Make this basket 15 inches long, 6 inches wide, and 6 inches deep. Use Vs-i^'i*^'^ mesh hardware cloth 15 by 18 inches; two boards % by 6 by 6 inches; two laths % by 11/2 by 15 inches; and 2i^-inch screwhooks. Tack the hardware cloth to three edges of the two square boards. To keep the basket from bending, nail the laths length- wise, in front and back of the basket outside the wire. Nail the top edges of the laths flush with the tops of the end boards. At the back, insert two screwhooks in the end boards about 2 inches from the top, so you can hang up the basket. When the temperature is high enough to make the young restless, place them in the basket. Hang up the basket inside the hutch near the top and leave it for the day. In the evening, if it is cooler, return the litter to the nest box. Where high tempera- tures continue throughout the night, place the young in the nest box for a short time in the evening for nursing. Replace them in the basket for the night and allow them to nurse again in the morn- ing. Do not hang the basket in direct sunlight. Cold. — Mature rabbits, if kept out of drafts, suffer little from low temperatures. However, pre- cautions should be taken to protect rabbits from direct exposure to rain, sleet, snow, and winds. If they are enclosed in a building, care must be taken to provide adequate ventilation and to prevent the -'^*HSjl ^ SHHIIH MHWiiiimiiiiiH Sliliiiiihl ir ' .' 1 ]|iii|nii|fni!ii ] i'-, 8306S-B Figure 19. — A cooling basket hung in the hutch to provide comfort for the young during hot weather. COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING 43 accumulation of moisture. Cold weather, drafts, and high humidity are conducive to the spread of respiratory infections. For young litters, provide nest boxes and sufficient bedding to keep them warm as discussed previously. Controlled Environments. — The use of controlled environment in rabbitries, where rabbits are main- tained under more or less constant environmental conditions, is re- ceiving increased attention. Several large commercial rabbitries in the western United States are changing to or are constructing this type of housing. The advantages of con- trolled environment are the elimi- nation of extremes in weather and, perhaps, seasonal fluctuations in production. Preventing Injuries Paralyzed hindquarters in rabbits usually result from improper han- dling or from injuries caused by slipping in the hutch while exer- cising or attempting to escape predators, especially around kind- ling time. Such slipping usually occurs at night. Common injuries are dislocated vertebras, damaged nerve tissue, or strained muscles or tendons. If the injury is mild, the animal may recover in a few days. Make the injured animal comfortable and feed it a balanced diet. If it does not improve with- in a week, destroy it to prevent unnecessary suffering. It is im- portant, therefore, that your rab- bits be provided with quiet, com- fortable surroundings and be pro- tected from predators and unneces- sary disturbances. The toenails of rabbits confined in hutches do not wear normally. They may even become long enough to cause foot deformity. The nails may also catch in the wire mesh floor and cause injury and suffering. Periodically cut the nails with side cutting pliers. Cut below the tip of the cone in the toenail. The cone can be observed by holding the foot up to daylight. This will not cause hemorrhaging or injury to the sensitive portion. Preventing Sore Dewlaps During warm weather the dew- lap, or fold of skin under the rab- bit's chin, may become sore. This is caused by drinking frequently from crocks and keeping the fur on the dewlap wet so long that it becomes foul and turns green. The skin on the dewlap and on the in- side of the front legs becomes rough and the fur may be shed. The animal scratches the irritated area, causing abrasions and infec- tion. Remove the cause by placing a board or brick under the water crock to raise it so that the dewlap will not get wet when the rabbit drinks. If the skin becomes in- fected, clip off the fur and treat the area with a medicated oint- ment until the irritation clears up. The best solution to the problem is to use an automatic dewdrop watering system which eliminates the possibility of wet dewlaps. Sanitation and Disease Control To protect the herd's health, keep the rabbitry equipment sani- tary. Remove manure and soiled bedding at frequent intervals and contaminated feed daily. Inspect water crocks and feed troughs daily and wash them frequently in hot, soapy water. Rinse them in clear water, allow them to drain well, and place them in the direct rays of the sun to dry. If it is impractical to sun the equipment properly, rinse it first in water to which a disinfectant has been added and then in clear water. To prevent or control a disease 44 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE or parasitic infection, thoroughly disinfect hutches and equipment which have been occupied, or used, by sick animals, or where exces- sive mortality has occurred. One of the coal tar derivatives or house- hold disinfectants may be used. Allow hutches and equipment to dry before returning rabbits to the hutches. A large blowtorch or weedburner may be used periodi- cally to remove liair and cobwebs and to disinfect the hutches. Clean and disinfect nest boxes before using them a second time. Maintaining sanitary conditions in the rabbitry is a preventive measure for controlling disease in the herd. Re constantly on the alert for the appearance of any sign that might indicate disease. Isolate animals suspected of having disease at least 2 weeks to deter- mine definitely whether they are dangerous to the health of the herd. Place newly acquired rabbits and those returned from shows in quarantine at least 2 weeks for the same reason. Burn or bury dead animals. losing hutches with self -cleaning floors, guards on feed troughs, and feed hoppers, will aid greatly in internal parasite control by pro- tecting feed from contamination. The most serious disease of do- mestic rabbits is pasteurellosis. This disease manifests itself in a wide variety of conditions such as pneumonia, snuffles (sinusitis), and other respiratory infections; and septicemia, a generalized blood infection. Another serious problem in rab- bit health is enteritis, or bloat. Three types of enteritis are distin- guished : diarrhea, mucoid, and hemorrhagic. The specific cause of enteritis is not known and there are no reliable measures for pre- vention or treatment. Coccidiosis, both of the liver and intestines, is a serious problem in some areas but can be successfully treated. The tapeworms which infest the rabbit are those which at a later stage infest dogs and cats, but the rabbits seem to suffer little harm from them. Tularemia, the disease that has in recent years killed off so many wild rabbits, is spread by ticks and fleas. If domestic rabbits are kept in clean conditions, free from ticks and fleas, they will not contract it. Domestic rabbits suffer from other ailments such as fungal in- fections, mange, sore hocks, and spirochetosis or vent disease, but these usually can be successfully treated and do not present a major problem. These and other ailments of do- mestic rabbits are described in table 4. Table 4.- -Common ailments of domestic rabbits Diseases and symptoms Cause Treatment and control Ear Mange or Canker: Ear mites (Psoroptes Into each ear, pour 1 oz. Shaking of head, scratch- cuniculi (rabbit and of a 5 percent lime- ing of ears. Brown scaly goat ear mite) and sulfur solution (prepared crusts at base of inner Noioedres cati (cat ear by mixing commercial ear. mite).) 30 percent lime-sulfur concentrate, 1 part, water 5 parts) . Massage solution over inner and outer surfaces of ears; repeat as necessary. Rubber gloves advisable. COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING 45 Table 4. — Common ailments oj domestic rabbits — Continued Diseases and symptoms Skin Mange: Reddened, scaly skin, intense itch- ing and scratching, some loss of fur. Favus or Ringworm: Cir- cular patches of scaly skin with red, elevated crusts. Usually starts on head. Fur may break ofif or fall out. Sore Hocks: Bruised, in- fected, or abscessed areas on hocks. May be found on front feet in severe cases. Animal shifts weight to front feet to help hocks. Urine- Hutch Burn: In flammation of external sex organs and anus. Area may form crusts and bleed and, if severe- ly infected, pus will be produced. Spirochetosis or Vent Dis- ease: Similar lesions as produced by urine or hutch burn. Raw le sions or scabs appear on sex organs; transmitted by mating. Conjunctivitis or Weepy Eye: Inflammation of the eyelids; discharge may be thin and watery or thick and purulent. Fur around the eye may become wet and mat- ted. Mites (Cheyletiella para- sitivorax (rabbit fur mite) and Sarcoptes scabiei (scabies or itch mite) ,) Fungus (Trichophyton, and Microsporum) . Bruised or chafed areas become infected. Caused by wet floors, irritation from wire or nervous "stompers." Bacterial mfection of the membranes. Spirochete (Treponema cuniculi) . Bacterial infection of the eyelids; also may be due to irritation from smoke, dust, sprays, or fumes. Treatment and control Dip entire animal in a 1.75 percent lime-sulfur bath (prepared by mixing commercial 30 percent lime-sulfur concentrate, 8 oz., laundry detergent, 1 tablespoonful, per gal- lon tepid water) . Repeat in 2 weeks if necessary. Rubber gloves advisable. Griseofulvin given orally at the rate of 10 milligrams per pound body weight for 14 days. Combine this treatment with dust- ing nest boxes with in- dustrial fungicidal sulfur. Can also be treated with a brand of hexetidine. Apply to infected area for 7 to 14 days. Small lesions may be helped by placing animal on lath platform or on ground. Advanced cases are best culled. Medication is temporarily effective. Keep hutch floors clean and dry. Pay particular attention to corners where animals urinate. Daily applications of lanolin mav be of benefit. Inject intramuscularly 100,000 units of penicillin. Do not breed until lesions heal. If only a few animals infected, it is easier to cull than treat. Do not loan bucks. Early cases may be cleared up with ej'e ointments, argyrol, yellow oxide of mercury, or antibiotic. A combination of 400,000 units of penicillin com- bined with y2 gr. strepto- mycin to each 2 ml. For eye infections drop directly into eye. Pro- tect animals from air- borne irritants. 46 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE Table 4. — Common ailments of domestic rabbits — Continued Diseases and symptoms Caked Breasts: Breasts become firm and con- gested, later hard knots form at sides of nipples. Knots may break open, showing dried milk. Mastitis or Blue Breasts: Breasts become feverish and pink, nipples red and dark. Temperature above normal, appetite poor, breasts turn black and purplish. Snuffles or Cold: Sneezing, rubbing nose; nasal discharge may be thick or thin. Mats fur on inside of front feet. May develop into pneu- monia, usually chronic type of infection. Pneumonia: Labored breathing with nose held high, bluish color to eyes and ears. Lungs show congestion, red, mottled, moist, may be filled with pus. Often secondary to enteritis. Heat Prostration: Rapid respiration, prostration, blood-tinged fluid from nose and mouth. Does that are due to kindle are most susceptible. Coccidiosis, Intestinal: Mild cases, no symp- toms; moderate cases, diarrhea and no weight gain. Severe cases have pot belly, diarrhea with mucus, and pneu- monia is often secondary. Milk not drawn from glands as fast as formed, because ot too few young, or young not nursing sufficiently; usually a management problem with high milk-producing does. Bacterial infection of the breasts (Staphylo- coccus or Strepto- coccus). Bacterial infection of the nasal sinuses {Pas- teurella muUocida or Bordetella bronchi- septica). Bacterial infection of the lungs. Organisms involved may be Pas- teurella multocida, Bordetella bronchi- septica, and Staphylo- coccus and Strepto- coccus sp. Extreme outside temper- ature. Degree varies with location and humidity. Parasitic infection of the intestinal tract caused by coccidia. (Eimeria perforans, E. magna, E. media, E. irrisidua.) Treatment and control Do not wean young abrupt- ly; if litter is lost, re- breed doe and protect doe from disturbance so youn^ can nurse properly. Correct faulty nest boxes that injure breasts. Inject 100,000 units of penicillin intramuscu- larly twice each day for 3 to 5 days. Disinfect hutch and reduce feed concentrates. If severe case, destroy. NEVER transfer young from infected doe to another doe. Individual animals may be treated with a combina- tion of 400,000 units of penicillin combined with y2 gr. streptomycin to each 2 ml. Give intra- muscularly 1 ml. for fryer size, 2 ml. for mature. Repeat on 3d day. If the above treatment is started early, it is effec- tive. For control in herds, add feed grade sulfaquinoxaline so that level will be 0.025 per- cent, feed 3 to 4 weeks. Water soluble sulfa- quinoxaline can be added at a level of 0.025 per- cent and fed 2 to 3 weeks. Reduce temperature with water sprays, foggers. Place wet burlap in hutch or wet the animal to help reduce body temperature. Keep floor clean, dry, remove droppings fre- quently. Prevent fecal contamination of feed and water. Add feed grade sulfaquinoxaline so that level will be 0.025 percent, feed 3 to 4 weeks. Water soluble sulfaquinoxaline can be added at level of 0.025 COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING 47 Table 4. — Common ailments of domestic rabbits — Continued Diseases and symptoms Treatment and control Enteritis, Bloat, or Scours: Loss of appetite, little activity, eyes dull and squinted, fur rough, and animals may appear bloated. Diarrhea or mucus droppings; animals may grind teeth. Stomach con- tents fluid, gaseous, or filled with mucus. Fur Block: Animals re- duce feed intake or stop eating completely, fur becomes rough, and weight is lost. Stom- ach filled with undigested fur, block- ing passage to intestinal tract. Pneumonia may become secondary. Tapeworm Larvae: White streaks in li%er or small white cj'sts attached to membrane on stomach or intestines. Usually cannot detect in live animals. Pinworms: No specific symptoms in live ani- mals. White threadlike worms found in cecum and large intestine cause slight local irri- tation. Metritis or White Dis- charge: White sticky discharge from female organs, often confused with sediment in urine. Enlarged uterus de- tected on palpation. One or both uteri filled with white, purulent material. Unknown; never has been shown to be in- fectious or transmitted to other animals. Lack of sufficient fiber, bulk, or roughage in the diet. Junior does or developing does most susceptible. Larval stage of the dog tapeworms {Taenia pisiformis) or of the cat tapeworm {T. taeniaeformis) . Pinworms ( Passalurus ambiquus). Infection of the uterus by a variety of bac- teria, nonspecific. percent and fed 2 to 3 weeks. These treat- ments, combined with sanitation, •will greatly reduce numbers of para- sites and animals infected. Add 50 gr. furazoladine per ton of feed to give final concentration of 0.0055 percent. Feed inter- mittently or continu- ously. Water soluble chlortetracycline or oxytetracycline at a level of 1 pound to 100- 150 gal. of water may be used for treating individ- ual cases; too costly for herd control. Increase fiber or roughage in the ration. Feed dry alfalfa or timothy hay. No treatment; keep dogs and cats away from feed, water, and nest box ma- terial Eggs of tapeworm occur in droppings of dogs and cats. None; infection not con- sidered one of economic importance. Dispose of infected animals and disinfect hutches. Infected area difficult to medicate. When both uteri are infected, ani- mal is sterile. 48 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE Table 4. — Common ailments oj domestic rabbits — Continued Pasteurellosis: May be an acute or chronic infec- tion. Nasal discharge, watery eyes, weight loss, or mortality with- out symptoms. Inflam- mation and consolida- tion of lungs, inflamma- tion of bronchi and nasal sinuses. Paralyzed Hindquarters: Found in mature does, hind legs drag, cannot support weight of pelvis or stand, tlrinary bladder fills but does not empty. Wry Neck: Head twisted to one side, animals roll over, cannot main- tain equilibrium. Bacterial infection {Fas- teurcUa multocida) . Injury, resulting in brok- en back, displaced disc, damage to spinal cord or nerves. Infection of the organs of balance in the inner ear. May be parasitic or bacterial. Individual animals may be treated with a combina- tion of 400,000 units of penicillin combined with ],^ gr. streptomycin to each 2 ml. Give intra- muscularly 1 ml. for fryer size, 2 ml. for mature. Repeat on 3d day. For herd control, add feed grade sulfaquinoxaline at level of 0.025 percent, feed 3 to 4 weeks. Save re- placement stock from clean animals and cull out chronically infected ani- mals. Use good sanitary measures to reduce trans- mission to new animals. Protect animals from dis- turbing factors, predators, night prowlers, and visi- tors or noises that startle animals, especially preg- nant does. None, eliminate ear canker from herd. Some cases result from nest-box injuries. Effective treatments are not known for many rabbit diseases. It is usually simpler and safer to destroy a few sick animals than it is to treat them and risk spread- ing infection to healthy stock. This is especially true of animals with respiratory infections. Fur-Eatins Habit Rabbits that eat their own fur or bedding material, or gnaw the fur on other rabbits, usually do so because the diet is inadequate in quality or quantity. A common cause is a diet low m fiber or bulk. Sometimes the protein content of the diet is too low. Addinjr more soybean, peanut, sesame, or lin- seed meal may correct the deficiency. The experienced breeder notes the condition of each animal in the herd and regulates the quantity of feed to meet its individual require- ment. Providing good-quality hay or feeding fresh, sound green feed or root crops as a supplement to the grain or pelleted diet also helps to correct an abnormal appetite. Preventing Fur Block In cleaning themselves by lick- ing their coats, or when eating fur from other animals, rabbits swal- COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING 49 low some wool or fur which is not digested. The only noticeable re- sult may be droppings fastened together by fur fibers. However, if the rabbit swallows any appreci- able amount, it may collect in the stomach and form a "fur block" that interferes with digestion. If it becomes large enough, it blocks the alimentary tract and the animal starves. The most satisfactory method of preventing this is to shear Angoras regularly, and try to prevent fur eating among your rabbits by providing adequate roughage and protein in their diet. A block of wood or other material upon which the rabbit can chew may be used to reduce fur chewing. Gnawing Wooden Parts of the Hutch Gnawing wood is natural for the rabbit. Protect wooden parts of the hutch by placing wire mesh on the inside of the frame when con- structing the hutch and by using strips of tin to protect exposed wooden edges. Treating the wood with creosote protects it as long as the scent and taste last. Plac- ing twigs or pieces of soft wood in the hutch protect it to some extent ; rabbits may chew these instead of the hutch. Rabbits that have access to good- quality hay and are receiving some fresh green feed or root crops are less likely to gnaw on their hutches. Disposal of Rabbit Manure Rabbit manure has a high nitro- gen content when the rabbits are fed a well-balanced diet (<5). It will not burn lawns or plants and is easy to incorporate in the soil. It is satisfactory on gardens and lawns and about flowering plants, shrubbery, and trees. There is no danger in using it for fertilizing soil on which crops are to be raised for feeding rabbits. The value of rabbit manure de- pends on how it is cared for and used. There will be less loss of fertilizing elements if the material is immediately incorporated into the soil. "When manure is stored in piles and exposed to the weather, chemicals are lost through leaching and heat. Much of this loss can be prevented by keeping the ma- nure in a compost heap or in a bin or pit. Earthworms in the Rabbitry Where earthworms are active throughout the year as in warm climates, they may be used to ad- vantage under rabbit hutches to save labor in removing fertilizer. Make bins for confining the worms the same length and width as the hutch and 1 foot deep (fig. 20). Place bins on the ground, not on solid floors, and keep the fertilizer moist to insure the worms working throughout the bin. Earthworms convert the rabbit droppings into casts — a convenient form of fertilizer for use with flowere, lawns, shrubs, trees, and other foliage. If you keep a large population of worms, there will be no objectionable odor. Very few flies will breed in the bins. It is necessary to remove the manure only at 5- to 6-month intervals. Records and Recordkeeping A convenient and simple system of records is essential for keeping track of breeding, kindling, and weaning operations. You can use the information in culling unpro- ductive animals and in selecting 50 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE breeding stock. The essential fea- tures of a simple record system are illustrated in the hutch card and the buck breeding record card shown in figures 21 and 22. The USDA does not furnish rec- ord cards. They may be obtained from firms deahng in supplies for the rabbitry or you may prepare your own. Some feed mills also furnish their customers with hutch cards and record forms. N 45949 Figure 20. — Worm bins installed beneath rabbit hutches. (X)MMERCIAL RABBIT RAISINCi HUTCH CARD 51 tei..] No. W 101 IVv n 12/12/55 ft..~i Mew litter No. Zealand 'flhite w 39U- n„ W60U W 7m OATC BRED «UCK NO. DATE KINDLED NUMBER TOUNG BORN NUMBER TOUNG RETAINED LITTER NO. DATE ■EANEO NUMBER ALIVE DEAD ■EANEO 6/1/56 TfUl8- 7/2 0 8 W19 8/27 8 8/2U/56 TfflilB- 9/2h 9 0 8 W175 11/19 ft 11/16/56 Trtao- Passed 11/30 n/30/56 Xlh21- 12/30 9 1 8 W3l6 2/2U^7 8 2/21/57 wua- 3/2U 11 0 8 WU65 5/19 7 0 PRODUCTION RECORD LITTER ■EANING NOTES: NO. NUMBER AGE ■EIGHT W19 8 56 30.2 m.7^ 8 56 31.0 Passed 11/30 7T316 8 56 32.0 WU65 7 56 28.0 ® Figure 21. — Hutch card, a useful form of record. A, front ; B, back. 52 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE BUCK BREEDING RECORD Buck No Breed Date born Sire Dam Location Date Bred Result of breeding Doe Kindled Passed Alive Dead Date Number Weight >^ . - — ■"-'^ ^— ~-__J , ^ 1 L 1 . . ^^ ^ ^_ Figure 22. — Sample of buck breeding record. TYPES OF PRODUCTION If you want ti fair income from your commercial herd^ you must be able to care for a large number of rabbits. Your returns will be in direct ratio to the number and quality of does maintained and your efficiency of management. Formerly, about 10 man-hours each year were required to care for a doe and her four litters. With improved hutch and feeding equip- ment (figs. 2^) and 24), rations de- signed to save labor in feeding, palpation of does, and other herd management practices, the num- ber of man-hours has been greatly reduced. It is now possible for a breeder to care for more than twice as many does in the same length of time with less effort. Fryer Production According to the regulations governing the grading and inspec- tion of domestic rabbits, issued by the Department of Agriculture, "A fryer or young rabbit is a young domestic rabbit carcass weighing not less than li/4 pounds and rarely more than 0I/2 pounds processed from a rabbit usually less than 12 weeks of age," (i^. Title 7, Part 54, Section 54.261). Rabbits raised for meat and fur usually are marketed when they COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISIN<; 53 N 45952 Figure 23. — Filling feed cart from bulk feeder tank. N 45947 Figure 24. — Filling hopper (self-feeder) from feed cart. reach fryer weight even though the pelts are not prime. In order to yield a carcass weighing from 114 to 314 pounds, young rabbits should have a live weight of ap- proximately 3 to 6 pounds. Best carcass yields are usually from young rabbits weighing from 4 to 4% pounds, when weaned at 2 months of age (figs. 25 and 26). These should yield a carcass (in- cluding liver and heart) of 50 to 59 percent of the live weight, 78 to 80 percent of which is edible. For fryer production, medium- weight to heavyweight breeds are pi'eferred. Their young are most apt to develop to the desired weight and finish by the time they are 2 months old. A pound of marketable fryer rabbit will require 2% to 314 pounds of feed, or a total of ap- proximately 100 pounds for a doe and litter of 8, from mating of the doe to marketing of the young when 2 months old. Good does nurse their litters 6 to 8 weeks. The young develop more rapidly if they are in the hutch with their mothers until they are 8 weeks of age. By that time, the milk sup- ply will have decreased, the young will be accustomed to consuming other feed, and weaning will be less of a shock than if undertaken at an earlier age. Young that are weaned and held for several days before market may either fail to gain or actually lose weight. Therefore, it is usually best to leave the young with their mothers until they go to market. If you want to produce fryers heavier than those weaned when 56 days old, keep young rabbits with their mother an additional 8 or 9 days. These fryers should gain an average of 0.6 to 1.0 pound during this period, if full fed a balanced diet. However, they will require more pounds of feed per pound of 54 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE N 45953 Figure 25. — Young meat rabbits waiting shipment to market. Figure 2(5. — Litter of fryer rabbits at marlcet age and weight. BN 26085 increase in live weight than previ- ously, and the death of one rabbit in a litter during: tlie extra holding period may eliminate any addi- tional profit. Roaster Production According to the reg-ulations governing the gradino; and inspec- tion of domestic rabbits, issued by COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING 55 the Department of Agriculture (1^, Title 7, Part 54, section 54.- 262), "A roaster or mature rabbit is a mature or old domestic rabbit carcass of any weight, but usually over 4 pounds processed from a rabbit usually 8 months of age or older." You can fatten culls from the breeding herd for roasters, if they are in good condition. In some areas you may find it profitable to develop young rabbits to heavier weights primarily for the meat market. Such rabbits should yield a carcass that is 55 to 65 percent of the live weio:ht, with 87 to 90 percent of it edible. However, the quantity of feed required to pro- duce a pound of gain, live weight, increases with each pound of gain, and may amount to 12 to 14 pounds to increase the live weight from 9 to 10 pounds. Therefore, the cost of feed required to produce these gains must be assessed against the value of the heavier rabbits. Unless a premium is paid for ma- ture rabbits for their meat or bet- ter fur quality, it is doubtful if such production would be more profitable than that of rabbits of fryer weight. Castrated bucks require less time and about 5 percent less feed than normal bucks to attain a given live weight. As indicated previously, one advantage of cas- tration is that a number of animals can be kept together with a saving of equipment, time, and labor. If a buck is castrated when 2 months old, his skin at maturity will grade as a doe skin and sell for a higher price. These factors, however, usually do not justify the extra work and danger involved in castration. ANGORA RABBIT WOOL PRODUCTION Angora rabbits are raised pri- marily for wool production (fig. 27). Wool on Angoras grows to a length of 21^ to 3i/^ inches each 3 months, or approximately 1 inch per month. You can shear 14 to 15 ounces of wool a year from a ma- ture Angora that is not nursing young. This wool is valued for its softness, warmth, and strength. It is used in blends with other fibers in the manufacture of children's clothing, sport clothes, garment trimmings, and clothes for general wear. Used alone it is usually too light and fluffy, and blends create better tensile strength and dura- bility. There are two main types of An- gora rabbits — the English and the French. Present standards of the American Rabbit Breeders Associ- ation, however, make English and French types of wool synonymous. It is difficult to distinguish the English Angora rabbits from the French when they are off type, and the choice largely is a matter of personal preference. The typical French Angora usually is larger than the English. The wool fiber of the French is shorter and coarser than that of the English, but wool yield is greater. Owing to competition with other fibers, both natural and synthetic, and competition with imported Angora rabbit wool, the market price is generally low and it is advisable to use the Angora as a dual purpose animal for both meat and wool production. The commercial An- gora weighs at least 8 pounds and is being bred more and more to improve its quality for meat. Keep herd bucks and does in in- dividual hutches. Keep woollers— does and castrated bucks main- tained primarily for wool pro- duction— in groups or colonies to 56 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE 11514-D FicrRE 27. — Angora rabbit. save labor. Castration of bucks that are to be reserved for wool production may reduce fighting in the herd, but wool production is not increased by castration. To prevent infestation with in- ternal parasites and to keep wool clean, install self-cleaning floors in the pens. Wool should be harvested prior to breeding to prevent mauling, and soiling of the wool. Angoras are generally sheared or plucked every 10 to 11 weeks though some producers pluck their animals monthly and some at in- tervals beyond o months. Feed and care for Angoras in the same way as for other breeds. Because of their long wool, how- ever, you must handle Angoras to find out how much flesh thev are carrying; determine the amount of flesh by running the hand along the backbone. Reduce or increase the quantity of feed to keep the animals in condition, A properly constructed manger for hay and green feed, or the use of a hopper, protects the wool from foreign matter and prevents contamination of feed. Equipment for Groomins and Shearing You will need the following equip- ment for grooming and shearing: A tabled waist-high, with a 12- by 24-inch top covered with carpet or a feed sack to keep the rabbit from slipping, and equipped with cas- tors to allow easy turning. A COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISESTG 57 table equipped with straps or cords for restraining the rabbit is ad- vantageous. A hairbrush %nth single steel bristles set in rubber, for brushing and removing foreign material from wool. A pair of barber's scissors or electric clippers. A ruler for measuring the length of wool. Containers for storing wool. Grooming. — Commercial woollers require little, if sltij, grooming be- tween shearings provided the}' are properly cared for and sheared every 10 to 12 weeks. If you allow the coat to grow for a longer period, the fibers may become webbed, tangled, or matted. For grooming, place the rabbit on the table. Part the wool down the middle of the back. Brush one side, stroking downward. As you reach the end of the wool, brush upward and outward to remove all foreign material. Make another part in the wool about half an inch farther down the side. Repeat the operation until the job is com- pleted. Groom the other side the same way. For grooming the head, front legs, and belly place the rabbit on its back in your lap. Hold its hindquarters gently but firmly be- tween the knees. Separate small areas of wool and groom the way you did the sides. For grooming the hind legs, place the rabbit on its back in your lap. Hold the head and front feet under the left arm. Use the left hand to hold the rabbit's hind legs. Shearing. — Before shearing, cut off all stained ends of wool. Place the back of the scissors against the rabbit's body to prevent cutting the skin. Begin at the rump and shear a strip about an inch wide to the neck. Repeat this operation until you have removed all the wool from one side. Turn the rabbit around and repeat the shearing operation on the other side, starting at the neck and shearing toward the rump. For shearing the head, front legs, belly, and hind legs, restrain the rabbit as for grooming. Separate small areas of wool and shear the way you did the sides. Do not injure the doe's teats. Do not shear wool from the belly of a pregnant doe. After shearing, lightly brush the rabbit to straighten out the wool fibers and prevent the formation of mats. During cold weather, newly sheared rabbits need protection. A nest box in the hutch affords ade- quate protection during cool spells. ^Yhen the temperature is as low as 30° to 40° F., keep the animals in a building where you can maintain comfortable temperatures. In mu- ter, leave a half inch of wool on the body for protection. GradinS/ Preparing, and Marketing Wool Label a container for each grade of wool and place it near the shear- ing table. Grade the wool as sheared. Following are the usual commercial grades: Plucked wool : Super Scinches or longer No. 1 3 inches or longer No. 2 2 inches or longer Sheared wool : No. 1 214 to 3 inches No. 2 1% to 2 inches No. 3 1 to 1% inches Shorts % to % inches (may be slightly webbed ) No. 4 Matted No. 5 Stained and unclean While the above have been the usual accepted commercial grades for Angora rabbit wool, some grading systems have been simplified to the extent that only three grades ai-e considered: No. 58 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 309, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE 1 — clean wool; No. 2 — clean mats; and No. 3 — all other wool, includ- ing; soiled wool. Put each grade in a separate paper bag without packing too tightly. Tie the bags and place them in burlap sacks or corrugated boxes for shipment. If the wool is to be stored, place it in a tightly covered container. To protect the wool from moths. put mothballs or crystals in a small sack before placing this in the container with the wool. Some Angora breeders spin the wool on an old-fashioned spinning wheel and knit the yarn into gar- ments for home use or for sale. Others sell wool to organizations or individuals who collect large quantities and these organizations or individuals in turn sell to mills. MARKETING Slaughtering and Skinning Slaughter in clean, sanitary quarters. Obtain information on regulations and restrictions from local health authorities. The preferred method of slaugh- tering a rabbit is by dislocating the neck. Hold the animal by its hind legs with the left hand. Place the thumb of the right hand on the neck just back of the ears, with the four fingers extended under the chin (fig. 28). Push down on the neck with the right hand, stretch- ing the animal. Press down with the thumb. Then raise the animal's head by a quick movement and dis- locate the neck. The animal be- comes unconscious and ceases strug- gling. This method is instantane- ous and painless when done cor- rectly. Another method is to hold the animal with one hand at the small of the back, with its head down, and stun it by a heavy blow at the base of the skull. Suspend the carcass on a hook inserted between the tendon and the bone of the right hind leg just above the hock (fig. 29). Remove the head immediately to permit thorough bleeding so the meat will have a good color. Remove the tail and the free rear leg at the hock joint, and cut off the front feet. Then cut the skin just below the hock of the suspended right leg and open it on the inside of the leg to the root of the tail, con- tinuing the incision to the hock of 83078 B Figure 28. — How to hold a rabbit for disclocating neck in slaughtering. COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING 59 83079-B Figure 29. — Steps in skinning rabbits and removing internal organs. Small jets of water from pipe beneath rack wash blood from back panel and trough. the left leg. Carefully separate the edges of the skin from the carcass, taking special pains to leave all fat on the carcass as the skin is pulled down over the animal. This makes a more attractive meat product, fa- cilities drying the skin, and pre- vents "fat burns" on the pelt in drying. Even small cuts lessen the value of a skin. As soon as you remove the skin, place it on a stretcher, secure it and hang it up for drying. (See section on "Rabbitskins.") After skinning the carcass, make a slit along the median line of the belly and remove the entrails and gall bladder. Leave the liver and kidneys in place. Remove the right hind foot by severing at the hock. Take particular care not to get hairs on the carcass; they are difficult to remove, detract from the appearance, and are unsani- tary. Rinsing the carcass in cold water facilitates removal of hair and blood and also cleans the car- cass. Brush the rabbit's neck thoroughly in water to remove any blood. Do not leave the carcass in water more than 30 minutes; prolonged soaking causes it to ab- sorb water, and water in the meat is adulteration. Chill the carcass in a refriger- ated cooler. Arrange the carcass on a cooling rack so that moderate air movements and a suitable tem- perature within the cooler will re- duce the internal temperature of the carcass to no less than 36° F. and to no more than 40° within 24 hours. Hanging by the hind legs for chilling may cause a carcass to be drawn out of shape, so that the pieces will not fit satisfactorily into a carton. Some processors 60 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 309, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE chill carcasses in wire trays, ar- ranging them so the pieces will be of a proper shape for packaging. Cuttins and Packagins Rabbit Meat Hotels, restaurants, hospitals, clubs, and other establishments usually purchase the whole carcass. Their chefs prefer to cut them to meet their own requirements. Housewives usually prefer the cut- up, packaged product. Cut up the fryer rabbit with a knife; using a cleaver may splinter the bones. Common cuts from fryer carcasses are illustrated in figures 30 and 31. In large commercial processing plants, a handsaw is used. A par- affined box with a cellophane win- dow makes a neat, sanitary package for the chilled rabbit carcass (fig. 31). If the package is to be handled considerably or the meat is to be frozen, use a box without the cellophane window, but wrap the meat or the box in a special salable wrapping to prevent freezer burns and loss in palatibility. A box 9 inches long, 4 inches wide, and 2i/^ inches deep is suit- able for a fryer carcass weighing 1% to 214 pounds. Arrange the cuts attractively. Include the heart, kidneys, and liver. If you sell to the home trade or furnish butchers with meat that is to be consumed locally, you can make a neat, sanitary, and inex- pensive package by arranging the pieces of fryer and a sprig of pars- ley on a paper plate and covering them with a piece of clear cello- pliane or other wrapping material (fig. 31). For information on regulations governing the grading and inspec- tion of domestic rabbits and speci- fications for classes, standards, and grades, write to the Consumer and Marketing Service, U.S. Depart- ment of Agriculture, Washington, D.C., 20250. Cratins and Shippins Live Rabbits You can ship rabbits almost any distance with safety, if they are in good condition, properly crated, and provided with food and water. Do not ship them in extremely hot or cold weather. Always use well- ventilated crates that are long enough to permit the rabbit to lie down. Use straw, not sawdust, for bedding. Crates with slanting tops discourage stacking (fig. 32). Put only one animal in a com- partment of a shipping crate. Ani- mals to be in transit 24 hours or less need only a small quantity of feed and water. If the trip is long, more feed and water are needed. It is wise to attach to each crate a bag of feed and a printed request to feed and water the animals once daily. Plenty of fresh water and feed should be ac- cessible to the rabbits at all time. For rabbits in transit use the type of feed given in the rabbitry. As an alternative, a bunch of fresh carrots placed in the crate will pro- vide enough feed and moisture for several days' travel, and eliminates the possibility of spilling feed and water supplied in containers. Label the crate clearly, advising against exposing the animals to sun or rain, and also against plac- ing the crates near steam pipes. Notify the purchaser when rabbits are shipped. You can make shipping crates from packing boxes. It is good business, however, and effective ad- vertising, to ship rabbits in dur- able crates that are neatly built, light in weight, and attractive. Furnish ample space in each com- partment and see to it that wire netting keeps the rabbits from ffnawins: the wood. COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISING 61 FiGTTBE 30. — Some common cuts obtained from a rabbit carcass. BN 26086 62 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE 83080 B FiGUEE 31. — Some common cuts obtained from a rabbit carcass, and samples of preparation for sale. COMMERCIAL RABBIT RAISIN<3 63 FiGUBE 32. — Homemade shipping crates for transporting rabbits BN 26083 RABBITSKINS Curing While still warm, place skins to be cured flesh side out on wire or board formers or shapers (with the fore part over the narrow end). Take care to remove all wrinkles. You can make a satisfactory skin shaper from 5 feet of No. 9 gal- vanized wire. This equipment has been called a "stretcher," but th& term may give a wrong impression. It is not desirable to stretch the skin unduly. Mount a skin on the shaper, making sure both front feet casings are on the same side, and fasten it with clothespins (fig. 33). This arrangement lessens in- jury to the fur of the back, which is the most valuable. On the day after skinning, examine the pelts to see that the edges are drying flat, that the skin of the front legs is straightened out, and that any patches of fat are removed. All skins must be thoroughly dried before you pack them, but do not dry them in the sun or by arti- ficial heat. Han^ them up so the air can circulate ireely about them. If you will not ship the dried skins for some time, hang them in loose bundles of 50 in a cool, dry place away from rats and mice. In the summer or in a warm climate, sprinkle the stored skins with 64 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK NO. 3 09, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE (Left) N 45955 (Right) B 83081 Figure 33. — How to place a rabbit pelt on a shaper before hanging it up to dry (left) . Two sizes of rabbit pelts properly placed on wire shapers (right). Front feet casings (not shown in picture) are on other side of shaper. naphtha flakes. Never use salt in curing rahhltskins. Marketins Domestic rabbitskins vary